Should I use a vapor retarder in Missouri? I'm constructing a small house in southern Missouri, climate zone 4. My question about vapor barriers is multifold:

Should I install a vapor barrier at all?
Should it be on the interior (warm-in-winter) or exterior (warm-in summer) side?
What permeability/material is advisable?

As highlighted in existing answers on this site, this depends on where I am - however, having researched the recommended approach in my climate area, authoritative sources are giving me directly contradictory information, and I'm not sure which one to trust - the MO DoE, US DoE or the University of Missouri?

The University of Missouri extension and the MO Department of Energy say I should install one, and that it should be on the warm-in-winter side:

  Vapor barriers are installed over the face of the studs or joists on the side closest to the inside surface of the home.

http://extension.missouri.edu/p/GH4881

  A vapor barrier should be placed on the "warm-in-winter" side of the insulation.

https://energy.mo.gov/resources/insulation

The Craftsman blog says I should install one, and that it should be on the exterior, warm-in-summer side:

  if you live in a hot climate like I do here in Florida the vapor barrier should be on the outside of the wall assembly

http://thecraftsmanblog.com/vapor-barriers-101/

And, finally, the US Dept. of Energy says I should not install any vapor barrier at all when building in Missouri:

  Building scientists generally do not recommend putting a vapor
  retarder in walls in the mixed-humid climate. In the mixed-humid
  climate, walls should be able to dry to both the interior and exterior.

https://energy.gov/sites/prod/files/2013/11/f5/40percent_mixed_humid.pdf

The US Dept of Energy also says 1/16" back drainage cavity for siding is appropriate even though capillary action occurs up to 1/4". Point being, the department of energy tends to lag significantly behind the latest in building technology. I did my undergraduate in environmental sciences at the University of Missouri and my masters in architecture at the University of Oregon (consistently #1 for sustainability in architecture). The belief that you shouldn't use a vapor barrier at all is terrible advice. You should include one and locate it as close to the center of your thermal barrier as possible (for this climate). This allows the moisture that condenses on the surface of the barrier from either side (interior in winter and exterior in summer) to dry. So, say you have a 2x6 wall with dense packed cellulose insulation, which is roughly an r-value of 20. You should place a vapor barrier to the exterior side of stud and then include 5" of eps (unfaced eps, and please use eps because xps is awful for the environment) to the exterior of the wall (equates to about r 19). This gives your wall assembly an R39 value and ensures that condensate can dry to the appropriate side. If you adjust your insulation type, thus adjusting r-values, you should adjust dimensions accordingly to ensure as close to a 50/50 split on either side of the vapor barrier as possible.


How can I protect a painted floor? I want to paint my stairs, but I can't find "floor paint" in suitable colours.
Can I use another kind of paint, and then give it a protective coating?
What kinds of paint/protection would be compatible?

You can get floor paint in a tintable base and have it tinted to the color of your choice.
Rust-oleum has an option as well.
Sherwin Williams has an option as well.


How to heat my workshop? I want something that can warm it up fairly quickly. I may only be out there an hour or 2, but when I decide to work on a project I don't want to wait an hour or 2 for it to heat up. Right now I have a cheap portable oil heater and it takes a long time. Would prefer something cheap if possible.

Look into the Mr Heater brand of propane heaters. They make a round one that attaches on top of a standard propane tank like your bbq grill probably uses.

They make a full range of heaters up to giant ones that contractors use, but I'm only familiar with the round tank mounted ones.

I've been in house boats that use the single round burner mounted on a propane tank setup and they get unbearably hot after running the heater for a few minutes every so often.


Modulate Hi-Def signal from HD-DVR or HD-DTV receiver I have coax running through my house that was installed before HDTV became the norm.  Currently I have a non-HD satellite receiver in a central location in my house and am broadcasting the output from from that receiver to several rooms using a standard RF modulator.

I'm planning on upgrading my satellite receiver to a HD receiver and am wondering if I can use the same RF modulator to broadcast the signal from the HD receiver to multiple HD televisions in my house, or if I need to buy a different modulator that is specially designed for HD signals.

If I need to buy a new modulator, what should I be looking for and what should I be staying away from?

An old modulator (which is NTSC) will not be able to modulate a high-definition signal (which would need to be ATSC). The best you'd get would be a modulated SD signal.

Rather than a modulator, I recommend an HDMI splitter, and long HDMI cables. I bought mine from monoprice.com, I highly recommend their products.

My current configuration is a DISH receiver and other equipment in a closet, which then goes to this HDMI splitter, which splits to two TVs via two 40-foot HDMI cables.


Code requirements for adhering wall light to electrical box - does the light need to be attached to the box? I have a wall light which I'd like to mount on a wood board for decorative purposes.  Below are photos of the light from the front and the back, and then a photo of the light on the board.

I don't have an electrical box yet.  This will be going in on existing sheetrock.
 My plan was to mount the light on the board, feeding the wires from the light through a hole in the board to the wires in the box, and then mount the board to the sheet rock.  But in the comments I've been understanding this approach is not code compliant.

Some of the comments have suggested mounting the box in the wood board - that way the wires will be completely enclosed in the space by the light bracket and the electrical box.  However I am not sure what this would look like as I assumed the box by code had to be flush with the sheet rock surface.

Would someone be able to post a sketch of the proposed solution?

Actually, the code requires larger (heavier than 50 lbs) fixtures to be mounted separate from the junction box. This one is not that heavy but as long as the wires are not exposed it should pass inspection.

The key here though is to discuss it with your local inspector ahead of time if it will have to pass an inspection. This will save you much time and grief.

I think it looks pretty cool but I am not your inspector.

Good,luck!


What is the standard 120V light bulb screw base in the US? I know that standard incandescent bulbs in the US use Edison screw bases, but I'm not sure which designation / number is the one which is used for prolific non-candelabra 120 volt fixtures.

The US 120 volt screw base is an E26. The 'E' indicates an Edison screw base and 26 is the diameter in millimeters.

Source: Wikipedia (footnote 3)

  In 120-volt North America and 100-volt Japan, the standard size for general-purpose lamps is E26


Can I reuse carpet underlayment pad? I recently ripped off the old carpet in a room, along with the under-pad. The pad is in a decent condition, so I'm wondering it could be the re-used somewhere? Of course I would not use it again for another carpet underlayment, but is it possible to insulate anything with it (just as example)?

Thanks.

I would not bother with used pad . You can get new inexpensive rubber pad of the appropriate thickness  when you need it.  I have reused older type pads , you can never get them clean; dirt goes through the carpet into the pad. And , I have used new pad trimmings for attic supplemental insulation , again ,the used pads are dirty.


Need some help with wall patch I’ve sanded down to where the wall feels even but now the patch’s showing what should I do next?

Part of the problem may be sanding technique. It appears that you have used a soft pad or bare sheet. You need to use a rigid block to prevent sinking into soft spots.

Apply another coat of patch material, and taper it out a bit further. Proper drywall work doesn't involve much sanding at all, so make sure to use a wide knife or trowel at a low angle to create a flat, smooth repair. Sanding should take mere seconds.


Galvanized Gutters Required For Dormer With Rubber Roof? I have a long dormer and currently there is no gutter, water just runs off and is starting to seep into my basement. I got an estimate to install gutters on  the dormer and the contractor said that because the roof on the dormer is rubber (I have shingles on the rest of the slanted parts of the roof) that the only type of gutters than can be installed are galvanized and they are 7x the cost of regular aluminum gutters.

I'm wondering if this contractor is taking me for a ride or not.

In summary, is it OK to install standard aluminum gutters on a rubber roof? If so, are galvanized better and would this guy tell me galvanized is the only way?

This study demonstrated not only no increased corrosion near an EDPM o-ring on an aluminum sample after 4 years immersion in salt water, but actually a lack of corrosion where the o-ring protected the aluminum from contact with salt water. The unprotected surface of the aluminum did corrode, but that's normal (it's salt water, not rainwater...)

EDPM is the normal material of rubber roofs. Rubber roofs are often secured with aluminum edge trim.

Find another gutter guy; this one's a scam artiste.


GE Powermark Electrical Panel - What Did the Last Guy Do? Basically, I want to do two things - add two dedicated circuits for the garage shop and add a 50 amp 240 breaker for my welder.  I've been reading for days about what is going on inside my panel (GE TLM2020).  I have, from everything I can tell, have the main panel in the garage.  The meter is on the street, but it's all locked up and part of the every-house street light/meter.

The neutral bar is grounded to the box and a ground bar is in place.  The ground bar (GE TGL2) has only 14 taps, most of which have two ground wires in each. The neutral bus has two grounds going into it - an aluminum ground from a 50 amp (The range, according to the list) and another ground which appears to go, well, to the ground. I have the 6ga TGL20 tap I need to hook up the welder.  I know it goes into the ground bar.

Here is my confusion - the neutral bar is grounded to the box and a ground bar is in place, which tells me it's a main panel, as I've read you can have a ground bar in a main panel as long as the grounding screw (in GE's world, a bar) is in place.  But if the neutral bar is grounded, what is the point of the ground bar? Could I, in an effort to get my welder hooked up, move some of the ground wires from the ground bar to the neutral, then use the TGL20 in the existing ground bar? I'm also okay with adding a second ground bar, however, the instructions for the TLM2020 show the ground bar only goes in one spot - the one it's in. But then, they only make a 14 tap ground bar for a 40 circuit, 200 Amp box... Why did the last homeowner decide to use a ground bar in a main panel? Could the Sentry Energy Demand box next to the panel have something to do with it?

I've included a picture (I also have like 10 more as it's too cold to read about the box and stand in the garage).  Please feel free to ask me follow up questions or ask for more pictures.

Ground bar fun and games

The original installer's decision to fit a separate ground bar for the ground wires was a good one from a neatness standpoint, even though Code does not take issue with having all the grounds and neutrals on one bar at the main panel, as that's the only place where neutral and ground connect (via that bonding strap you see bottom left).

However, the choice of ground bars and ground bar locations available for your panel leaves us in a pickle.  None of the ground bars your panel accepts provide more than 14 connection points, and your panel is not labeled for multiple ground wires in a single ground bar hole as per NEC 110.14(A):

  Terminals for more than one conductor and terminals used
  to connect aluminum shall be so identified.

The only way I can explain this is that your panel predates that marking requirement in Code, leaving us with three not-great options if a subpanel is off the table given that your panel also does not have a factory provision for a second ground bar:

Stuff the new ground wires into unused holes in the neutral bar (one large, two small) in an annoyingly sloppy fashion.  This is the simplest option, and also the easiest to make Code-compliant right now, but has the downside that it'd make life harder for anyone who wants to convert this panel to a subpanel.
Rearrange the wires in the existing ground bar to free up one large and one small hole. This requires a bit of care to get the torquing right, since you are operating outside the loadcenter's labeling at this point, and also is technically a violation of the loadcenter's listing, although not any more so than the current situation.
Fit another ground bar to the panel (in-line with the existing bar is fine) and land your wires there, despite the fact your panel doesn't have provisions for this and isn't labeled for multiple ground bars.  A GE TGL2 kit can be used for this, although you will have to switch the machine screws used to mount it out for a pair of 10-32 (i.e. fine thread) self-tapping/self-drilling screws, such as Garvin GSSTs.  Note that ordinary (coarse thread) sheet metal screws are not suitable for this, as they will not engage two threads into the sheet metal of the cabinet as required by NEC 250.8(A) point 6:

  (6) Thread-forming machine screws that engage not less than
  two threads in the enclosure

Given these alternatives, I would choose the third if possible and the second if not, but this is a case where your local Code inspectors probably can provide more guidance than I can.

Other option: run a feeder to the garage

The other thing I would consider at this point is running a feeder from this panel to a subpanel in the garage.  This has the advantage that you will only need one grounding hole free in the main panel instead of a minimum of two, at least, and it also keeps the space usage in this already fairly tightly packed main panel to a minimum.

I would go with a 125A feeder here (using 1/0-1/0-1/0-1 aluminum SER cable and a TGL20 lug in the spare ground hole you free up for this, as well as a 286A8894G1 add-on neutral lug attached to the bar for the top row of neutrals) to a 125A, 30 space panel, in order to provide adequate room for expansion.  (Going beyond 125A is rather difficult here due to GE TQDL breakers being hard-to-find, and your panel cannot accept a 150 or 200A subfeed lug block it appears, for that matter, nor will it accept a 200A TQDL breaker.)


Why does my electrical panel have a separate insert? I changed out a bad circuit breaker for the first time today. When I went to remove the (Siemens) front plate, I noticed that the metal surrounding the circuit breakers is a different piece from the main plate (that the door attaches to) and has two screws that are different from the rest of the screws holding the door in.

It's not this one, but the design is similar:

I thought, "Hey, great, they've designed it so that I can just take out the center panel without having to remove the whole face and door!" Except, as shown above, the separate insert is behind the front plate. Removing those screws does nothing useful (it's still caught on the breakers protruding through the slots). I had to remove the entire plate and door to change the breaker.

What is the purpose of having the plate & door separate from the center panel? Why is one detachable from the other?

By screwing the dead face in the same frame and door can be used for different types of boxes. This looks like a sub panel, (no main disconnect) the same frame can be used with the additional punch out in the top section for a main panel with the disconnect.


F.A.U. and W.A. abbreviations on circuit breaker? I think FAU means Forced Air Unit, but a different one says AC.  Why would there be both?

There are also two separate ones that say W.A.  What is that?

From top to bottom they say:

A.C. (two connected; each with number 40);
DISH & DISP (two connected; each with number 20);
WASH (20);
F.A.U. (20);
W.A. (20);
MAIN (two connected; each with number 100);
W.A. (20);
PLUGS & LIGHTS (one label for next last 5, separate, labeled '15');
and two more, connected with no label each with number 50

If you have a outside compressor this requires a separate circuit than the air handler or forced air unit.  Wa to me would be water if you have a well. The double 50 is most often for an electric range.


How many LED lights on this 15 amp breaker? How many LED recessed lights per 15 amp breaker with 14 gauge 12/3 12/2 wire with 8 3 way dimmer switches and 1 single pole dimmer attached picture of 6” recessed led lights

Also not sure what the maximum of (4)  no 12 awg or (6)  No 14 awg means... thanks guys

The breaker only sees the 120V input to the LED power supply, so
at 0.14A each 100 of them would still be less than 15A.

However you're surposed to use less tha 80% of breaker capacity, so 85 is a better limit.


Is it ok to run CAT-6, Coaxal, and HDMI near hot water pipes I am running CAT6, HDMI and Coax in my basement. I have pipes that contain hot water from my heater, and to supply my radiators. Can I just use foam insulation on the pipes at the intersection points or do I need to take other precautions?

It would be a good idea to keep them as insulated from heat as possible. Depending on the type of cable, they could potentially release toxic fumes if they are exposed to too much heat.

Generally, if you are running them near a hydronic heating system, then the pipes won't get hot enough to melt the jackets of the wires as long as you wrap the pipes in foam insulation. This insulation can be found at most home and hardware stores and varies in size. It may also help the efficiency of your heating system by reducing the amount of heat loss in the pipe in areas where you don't want to heat.

You may want to do further research to see what the wires are rated for. I found a guide to in-wall wire installation that may help you out.

In wall cable ratings


Are these Asbestos Fibers? I live in an apt complex built in the 60s. In my HVAC closet, I found chunks, including one like this, in the picture.

Does this look like asbestos fiber under the paper?

Asbestos fibers are typically too small to see, with the naked eye. As mentioned in the comments, there are free services available, to help you find out.

When dealing with unknown materials, that you think might be dangerous; assume that they are, and leave them alone. Do not spray, do not break, do not touch; call a professional.


Wiring the Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch I got this Z-Wave 40 A relay from Aeotec, but it’s got non-standard openings for wiring, and I’m not sure how to install it to code in my shop. This indoors in an industrial environment. I’m connecting a small electric water heater (20 circuit). Right now it’s connected with a few feet of 3/4" FMC with L,N,G 12 ga wires (it’s what I had on-hand).

You can see what I’m working with here. The plastic bridges don’t seem all that secure, and typical flex fittings don’t fit.

Any suggestions?

The problem is, these products are conceived of by techno-geeks who are interested in the smart-home tech.  Silly things like physical wiring connections are really not "thought through" in any way.

Normally electrical equipment must meet the Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) "White Book" standard, and get passed either by UL or a competing lab such as CSA or ETL. These things are pushed into the marketplace fast and cheap, bypassing that - either by direct ship from China, or dropshipped via Amazon (same effect).  That's why Home Depot doesn't sell them - they can't. Even Amazon proper won't sell it, which is why it shows up in the Amazon Marketplace flea market.  Mains equipment should never be bought there, nor from Banggood, DealExtreme, eBay, or AliExpress.

Right off the bat, UL would never list an item with such utterly bizarre cable and conduit attachment points.  It looks like it was designed by someone with no familiarity of US wiring methods, just "freestylin'".  Another obvious redflag is the lack of wire bending space and simple cubic inches for the connection. You can't cram wires like that unless they are plugs.  Even their product illustration shows a wiring method that violates NEC in several ways, including unclamped sheath (and they are showing North American wire colors, so no excuse).  There simply isn't enough room in the device to make proper splices.

How do you fit it to Code?

You don't.  On the first page of Code you have NEC 110.2, which requires equipment be approved. That's officially the AHJ's call, but they universally defer to UL and other NRTLs. Without a UL etc. stamp, it will not be approved.  CE is not a testing lab.

But there are so few high-amperage smart relays. What do I do?

The problem is you're trying to combine two things (high current switching, and smart gadget) into a single device.  You don't need to.

You can split up the job.  First, have any low-voltage smart controller that talks to your network and has a relay output capable of handling 50 ma at 24 volts. That's not a big requirement.  Being an entirely low-voltage device, it doesn't even need to be UL listed.  So perhaps in the $10 range, $20 at most if you find someone who is not overcharging you.

Then, you have a UL-listed transformer creating 24 V AC, then you have a UL-listed contactor actually throw the big load.  As separates, each is available in the $15 range. The transformer mounts in a knockout or as a junction box cover. The contactors vary.

You can also get combo contactor-transformers in a couple of form factors:

Goes in a knockout, such as the "Aube" relays. They have a tiny transformer just big enough to operate the relay.  The device simply gives you 2 low-voltage terminals with 24V on them: you short them, or you don't. They typically also give you access to both sides of the transformer, say if you wanted to power the smart module off the 24V transformer.
A larger transformer-contactor combination that replaces a junction box lid ($50-90).  The device smartly puts the mains voltage on the "inside" and the thermostat wires on the outside, which complies with Code requirements to do just that.


How to limit bathroom shower water usage by time? I have a teenage daughter whose showers are getting longer all the time and I am getting tired of fighting with her about taking all the hot water. Therefore, my question is about installing a device that controls the flow of hot water only to the shower that she uses.

I have already tried a water saving shower head and that didn't change anything. I want to install a variable flow control device that gradually cuts off hot water flow at various pre-set time intervals. As an electrician, I can figure out how to control it, but I'm just not sure if such a device exists.

Does anyone know of such a thing or have a better idea? Also, in the meantime, if I gradually close the inlet valve to my hot water heater while she is in the shower, do I run the risk of siphoning the water from the tank and doing damage to the tank?

They make a pretty cool device that installs on the shower arm upstream of the shower head. It's a battery operated valve that cuts the water flow back (to like 1/3 flow) after a pre-programmed time. It doesn't shut off, it cuts the flow back enough to make for a very unsatisfactory shower experience but provides enough flow for her to finish rinsing off. It will basically force her to leave the shower.

The time duration can only be adjusted by applying a special magnet from the outside, so no one but you can adjust the activation time. it is not cheap (around $90 US) but the reviews are positive. I don't normally endorse, and I do not own one, but I have never seen another product like this: showermanager


non-permanent construction adhesive? I'm building a small floating wall about 3.5' wide. almost 8' tall. It will be 'floating' 8" away from the ceiling, floor, and perpendicular wall via 1/4" steel pipe connected to floor flanges. It will look like this:

-------------------------------
      ---            ---    | |
       |              | <---|-|--- 1/4" steel pipe +
     --------------------   | |    floor flanges
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |--|| |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |    'Floating'    |   | |<-- perpendicular wall
     |       wall       |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |   | |
     |                  |--|| |
     |                  |   | |
     --------------------   | |
       |              |     | |
      ---            ---    | |
-------------------------------

I can easily screw into the ceiling and perpendicular wall. But I'd like to avoid drilling into the floor as future owners may want to remove this and patching holes in floors is a pain (as opposed to holes in sheetrock).

I was initially going to use rubber pads under the ones on the bottom and hoping there'd be enough tension to cause it to grip solid.

But given this is an entry way wall, I can see someone large grabbing the edge of the wall to put on their shoes or something and worry about that lower outer leg pushing out.

Is there any sort of adhesive I could use that would give the bottom plates more rigidity...but easily be removable in the future?

I'm thinking some industrial size version of those 3M 'snot' adhesives they use on hooks where they are very adhesive, but can be pulled off in the future. (Come to think of it, maybe 3M does make large versions of those already?)

Pure silicone will provide very good shear bonding, yet you'll be able to peel it up later from non-porous surfaces.


Ground wired to neutral in light switch I'm a DIYer swapping out existing switches/receptacles for a different color. I ran across a light switch that had ground wired to neutral instead of the ground connection on the switch. This doesn't make any sense to me but I'm not a pro so maybe I'm missing something?
In Ohio, maybe something in the code here that allows it under certain circumstances?  Internet Search  is failing me so thought I'd ask.
PS: Duplex receptacle a few feet away has the neutrals cut with tips electrical taped, and ground connected to the neutral terminal. (ಠ_ಠ Confidence in the correctness of the wiring in this area is not very high)

Nope. Get the ground wire outta there! (out of the neutral splice). There should be a ground wire from the bottom of the switch hooked on a green ground screw and tied to the ground(s) in the box, nutted with a green nut. The neutral splice should only consist of neutral wires and the ground wires should all be tied together with a green nut. Wire colors can't be mixed in most cases.
Would like to know if home was recently built before the postscript question?


Seebeck generator to run a fan on a radiator I asked in this question if there was a heat powered fan for residential steam rads, to increase air flow over them since natural flow is pretty weak.

Alas, looks like some wood stoves can use such a device, but in the $300 range and they are pretty bulky.

Looking at parts, I found some cheaper ($40 US) Seebeck effect generators (Reverse of Peltier effect) and I am wondering if I can build one myself that is worthwhile.

Found a Seebeck generator here that looks to be about the right size, attach to my rad right where the steam comes in, stick a computer style heat sink on the back (bum one from work), and then run the power into a small fan.

Now to find a small fan I can fit under the rad, and needs low DC power.

I am tempted to experiment, since for $40 this should be simple enough.

I know my rad is not hot enough at 100C max, but I wonder if I can get enough power out to run a small battery powered fan styled motor...

Am I going to fail?  Or is there a chance this might succeed?

I have a feeling their data sheet is optimistic, but let's go with that.

I've got right here a computer fan, moving a stream of air which is miniscule compared to most home radiators I've ever seen. It is consuming 1.6W of power to accomplish this feat.

Let's say you're already actually doing a really good job of moving air away from this radiator, and so its immediate environment is 25C. You stick a giant whopping block of copper on the back side of this generator, and end up with just a 5C rise over ambient on the cool side of the generator. (After, of course, coming up with a very thermally conductive connection between your round pipe and this flat object.) The chart says you need your steam pipe to be about 150C to get 1.6W out.

As I understand it, steam in homes isn't that hot. So you're not going to get the power you want, even under the above generous assumptions. And I don't think the air circulation you'll get from 1.6W of fan would even be worth it.


What does it mean if there are 2 different figures for a dimension on a blueprint? I am trying to read a technical 2D CAD drawing of a machine screw.

This is the fastener in question. This is a link to a PDF of this fastener's blueprint.

Here is an image of the PDF:

I added the blue arrows to highlight instances of confusion.

What does it mean if there are two figures provided for the same dimension?

I thought that maybe these two figures referred to a "tolerance" of possible values (that is, a "minimum" and a "maximum"), but I'm not confident in this theory because, in all four instances, the greater number is on top (which seems counterintuitive to how a range is typically expressed).

I tried looking up "ASME B18.6.3" to see if it contained any hints, but it costs $107 to view this document.

Also, if no units are provided on a blueprint like this, how do I know if the figures are measured in inches or millimeters?

Fastenal is a U.S.-based company, so I expected that they use the imperial system, but the figures contain odd numbers, so, on the other hand, they might be using the metric system.

The two numbers represent the minimum and maximum range for the dimensions shown.

The dimension units would normally be specified on a drawing like this. In this case you can make two inferences that the dimensions are in inches as follows:

The stud/thread size is shown as 1/4-20 which is a standard inch size fastener.
The dimensions of the head size for a 1/4-20 fastener fall in line with what you would expect for such a fastener. For example a head diameter in the range of 0.443 to 0.472 inches is logical for a 1/4 inch diameter fastener.

As the OP has noted the reference to the ASME B18.6.3 document is one that specifies dimensions for standardized fasteners. Taking a quick look at this document is problematic because it is a controlled distribution document that requires a sizeable fee just to acquire a license to see it for just personal use. After quite a search I located a web page that showed a snapshot of one page of this document as shown below:

(image from: https://www.coursehero.com/file/24235851/ANSI-B1863-Machinery-Handbookpdf/)

Dimensions are in inches as one would expect for an ASME standard.

A screw head size chart from another vendor is shown below which some of the dimensions on the OP's PDF picture from Fastenal as min and max values.

(image from: http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~me231/online_notes/dimensoning/fastener_handout.pdf)


Is "unstructural plywood" suitable for shelving carrying a microwave oven? I want to put up a shelf for a microwave, which I guess weighs around 10 kg.

In the UK plywood is marketed as either "structural" or "unstructural".  Is "unstructural" a good choice for this application, or should I use structural plywood?

The microwave is I'd say typical microwave size in the UK: about 48 cm side by 36 cm deep.  The shelf will be the size of the microwave.  I'm guessing I'd use 18 mm thick ply, but I imagine that might depend on the type of ply.

The shelf will be supported by two metal brackets (which have bracing struts that form a triangle).  The brackets will be positioned at or within a cm or two from the location of the feet on which the microwave stands, so as to minimize the bending moment on the shelf.

From my reading, unstructural is not ok in damp/wet or areas with temperature changes. Microwaves put out a decent amount of heat and moisture, so I would not use it in this application.

Personally, I like to use solid wood for shelving as it is pretty cheap (pine) and you can normally get it in a size/length very close to what you need.


Sizing circuit for mini split heat pump I'm getting ready to install  the Mr Cool DIY 24K Mini Split Heat Pump in my garage.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-DIY-24-000-BTU-2-Ton-Ductless-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-and-Heat-Pump-230-Volt-60-Hz-DIY-24-HP-230A/207085061

I'm having trouble determining a few things about the circuit. The outdoor unit and indoor unit both have an electrical specification sticker. The outdoor unit indicates its MCA is 15A and its Max Fuse is 25A. The indoor unit indicates its MCA is 3A and its Max Fuse is 15A. My confusion comes from the fact that the indoor unit plugs directly into the outdoor unit and only the outdoor unit receives power from the house.

First question; Does the sticker on the outdoor unit take this into account?

Some of my reading makes me think that since the sticker explicitly says Max Fuse that I must use a fuse instead of a breaker.

Second question; Is this true?

Use a 20A breaker and 12 AWG (or larger) wiring.

I read through the installation manual, which was surprisingly bereft of meaningful electrical information. Regardless, the MCA is the required Minimum Circuit Ampacity, meaning your circuit needs to be sized appropriately for at least that amperage. The 24kBTU unit has an MCA of 15, so you'd need a circuit capable of supplying at least 15A.

Because this is HVAC equipment, a 14 AWG circuit and 15A breaker is insufficiently sized. This is a continuous load, so you're only allowed to size to 80% of the rated ampacity, and the next larger size is 12 AWG and 20A.The Max Fuse simply states that the maximum size of the OCPD should not be larger than 25A.

HACR is likely to be listed on your breaker, but it's no longer required. Neither the NEC nor UL requires it to be labeled anymore, so don't stress over that.

You can do what others have suggested and use a larger ampacity circuit with an appropriately fused disconnect at the unit, but your circuit would be needlessly oversized.

To directly address your questions, the labels indicate electrical specifications for the unit, and if the instructions only show the indoor unit directly connected to the outdoor unit, then the outdoor unit should provide for any protection the indoor unit requires. The circuit only needs to supply enough current for the unit and not allow more current than the maximum rating.

And no, you don't need to use fuses over breakers.


Horizontal Crack in Foundation I was hoping to get some guidance.  I recently purchased a home.  During the inspection process, the inspectors put in their report that there was a hairline horizontal crack in the foundation.  It was mentioned in their report, however, they told me verbally it was nothing to worry about(and I trusted them :( ), as there was no signs of shoving or spreading - so the house passed inspection.  On the inside, you are not able to stick a dime in the crack, and there are no signs of water seeping in.  However, upon closing, I was working around the house, and noticed that the crack is roughly the same height above the floor, and probably goes all the way around the 3 sides of the foundation(4th side is the walk out), the basement is partially finished, so I am not able to see the entire wall to know for 100% sure.  On one side, the slope of the ground shows that the crack is visible from the outside.  I took a level to the wall, and it SEEMED level, however I am not a contractor.  The house was built in 1956, and has a poured basement(as far as I can tell).  I am having an SE come look today, however I am curious if any of you have experienced this?  I am worried I may have ruined my life financially by buying this house.

Any info will be appreciated.  Thanks!

UPDATE: The SE came today, and didn't seem concerned, as the walls showed no signs of shoving, water, and were level.  However, I have attached photos. The third photo shows epoxied cracks, and a smaller crack above.  From what I understand, this epoxy would have been done 5+ years ago, and has not shown any movement judging by the epoxy. The smaller crack above does not travel any further than that photo, and I plan to epoxy that. The basement is partially finished, so I am not able to see all the way around.  If I absolutely had to, I would unfinish the parts needed to make any fixes...I am considering attaching glass to the wall over the crack.  That way, If the glass cracks, I know the wall is showing movement. We have got consistent heavy rain in my area recently, and no sign of water seeping through.

No, no, no, a horizontal crack COMPLETELY THROUGH your foundation wall on 3 sides of your house is not normal and is not acceptable...especially if you’re able to stick a dime in the crack...this is not just a “hairline” crack.

I’ve designed hundreds and hundreds of concrete walls, slabs, etc. and NONE have cracked. People who have cracked foundations, slabs, etc. do not understand the difference between reinforcing rebar and temperature steel.

I suspect your problem is one of the following issues

lack of vertical rebar for the load
lack of temperature steel due to thickness of wall
contractor pouring a portion of the foundation wall up a ways (usually about half way) and then when they finish the pour they do not vibrate (consolidate) the two pours together by using a vibrator (contractors call it a stinger). This creates a “cold joint” between the two pours.

This allows a small “hairline” crack that can grow due to movement of the building or water penetration into the joint and then freezing and expanding, etc. (if you live in a cold climate, I suspect this is the cause of your problem.)

If the wall is still level, (smart of you to check,) I doubt if it’s a structural problem (lack of vertical rebar). and I’d definitely seal the cracks to prevent bugs, water penetrating the crack...freezing and continuing to crack the wall further.


Should I set wooden porch pillars into, or on to concrete footings? I'm building a wooden porch on the front of my house.  I have six 4" wooden pillars supporting the structure.  It's light, doesn't contain concrete, roof tiles, etc, and is made entirely of wood.  I'm digging footings and am about to install the pillars. I'm wondering whether to set the wooden pillars into the concrete or simply sit them on top.

I realise setting them into the concrete will mean they might move less laterally but I'm concerned that with the wood in the concrete there is more chance that moisture will slowly get in between the concrete and timber and rot the wood.  It is not hardwood by the way.  So should rotting occur in future, it will be easier to replace a pillar if they are not set in concrete - and I figure they are less likely to rot anyway if they are not set in the concrete in the first place.

So what's best - to set the pillars into concrete, or to just sit them on top?

My concrete footings are about 2.5 ft deep, 12 inches round for each pillar.  I'm putting a metal mesh into each one to assist in concrete strength.

Set a steel pin (1-2cm diameter) or post-base-bracket in the concrete. Drill a hole in the bottom of the post for the pin, or attach the bracket to the post bottom - no lateral movement, also no accelerated rot. Rot is effectively guaranteed if you set the post into concrete. Brackets designed for the job maintain a small space between the concrete and the post. If you don't use that type of bracket, or you use a pin, set a small square of tarpaper/roofing felt/asphalt shingle on top of the concrete, under the post, to reduce water transport into the post from the concrete. A quick search indicated that post-base-brackets seem to be available in the UK, so that's the best option - tie the lower part of the bracket into your reinforcing mesh before pouring concrete. There are several typical options, this is one type (image from Simpson Strong-tie)


Clean way of Extending Stud for Mounting on Drywall I am trying to mount hooks onto my walls to hang a crossbar for a photography backdrop roll. The backdrops are 86 inches.

However below there is a shelf that slighty jets into the area where the backdrop would be once it is hanging down. It jets into that space by like a quarter of an inch. So I only have around 85.5 or 85.75 of the desired 86 inches to work with. How do I extend the stud by half an inch (so the backdrop mount wont be in the stud directly but still supported by it) without mounting a separate piece wood?

A mounting plate is ok, just looking for something small and inconspicuous. I am trying to keep it clean looking. Its only half an inch at most. Any help is appreciated.

I know that your desire is to not mount any more wood but from the description that you gave it seems like the very best choice is to actually mount a 1x4 or 1x6 board across the width of the wall and screw into the various studs. Such board could even be full room width or at least longer than the backdrop width.

If this board had the screw heads counter sunk and then filled in and then sanded, primed and painted to a color to match the wall it would be better looking that you might imagine.

This board would give you ultra flexibility where to mount the hooks that the backdrop hangs from.


Low voltage wiring ideas for house I'm looking for ideas for low voltage wiring for new house/renovation.

My house is gutted due to a massive flood. Walls are open so now's the time to upgrade. I am already pulling cat6 around the the house.  Nearly 20 years in IT taught me to always pull 2 runs even if you're only going to use 1 right now.  Most everything is wireless now with mesh connected light bulbs, thermostats, speakers, etc.  I don't see that changing.  I'm not sure what else we would use.

I recently had the opportunity to do this on an out-room on the other side of the garage. It just had wood veneer and no insulation, so the gut was pretty pain free.

I'm a forward thinker, but dropping RG6 or Cat 5e/6 into the wall would have been too expensive (and I have no idea where to run it to). What I opted to do was add a low voltage gang and then drill through the top plate. Then I added a screw terminal to the box end (to hold the conduit in place) and pushed 3/4" PVC conduit out of the top. So I have 3/4" conduit in the wall, running into a box. If/when I need any low voltage wiring, I can easily put it into that box without any wall fishing.

A single 10' section of conduit, the screw terminal, the low voltage box, and a blank plate cover, was maybe $5-7. I had to buy a spade large enough to go through the top plate as well.


Heating not turning on I live in a warm place, so I never use the heating. It is only a few weeks in the year that it gets cold enough for me to turn the heating, so this is the first time I tried to turn on the heating. However, I set the thermostat to the highest setting and there is no heat:

I checked the heating unit and everything looked fine:

I also reset the breakers to make sure this wasn't the issue

and doubled checked the thermostat to ensure that was installed correctly

I can't figure out what's wrong with my unit. Does anyone have any ideas?

I see a spare fuse in there it could be a sign it blows fuses
also check at the heat elements there is a mechanical thermal safety for over temp. Most electrics have a breaker panel on the unit itself.
I can not tell the breaker values feeding the unit if there are multiple breakers it is is back to the controls again back to the fuse or thermal limit.
I only see 1 element with the yellow blue wires the blue wire is connected to the thermal limit tap that black thing and yes there could be power right there.
So a control fuse is open or the limit, if the thermostat is sending the call for heat those art the 2 prime suspects.
If you have a volt meter and know how to use we may offer more help


Gap between stand up shower and stud After fixing some water damage in our upstairs bathroom I decided to install a stand up shower. I've installed it and now I'm adding in patches of drywall around the shower and I noticed one of the back corners is about a 1/4 inch out from the studs the shower is supposed to be mounted to. The other back corner and the two front walls are attached directly to the stud.

My question: How would I fix this issue so the drywall in that area doesn't look noticeably crooked/there's a little "ledge" between the new drywall patch and the existing drywall?

Pictures to follow.

Edit 1: My two leading ideas for repairs are 1) Carve the bottom edge of my drywall patch to fit around this gap or 2) Since this mold resistant drywall it's wrapped on the front, I thought I could cut a gap into the back and use hanging piece of drywall still attached in the front to attach to the shower.

A third idea would be much more intensive but might look the best, would be to put some kind of molding around the shower edges themselves, then drywall directly to the studs on top of that molding.

Any help is appreciated.

I would cut out the drywall to the highest open point (left wall in your photo) all the way around (or at least along the back wall). Cut tapered shims for each stud from the necessary thickness at the bottom to zero at the top. Rest them above the shower flange, and cut additional (thinner) shims for behind the flange.

You want the tapered shims flush with the outer face of the flange at the bottom. This will virtually eliminate any visible oddity in the drywall.


What type of wood/stain is this? I really like this wood privacy fence.  Anybody know what kind of wood/stain they used to create this red and yellow effect?  Thank you!

As bib stated, it is in the color/grain of the wood.

If you used red cedar, redwood, and perhaps douglas fir the striping will come naturally if the sap wood is included. The darker wood is the heartwood, towards the center of the tree, the lighter is the sapwood, which is around the outside. My guess is that redwood was used. No stain at all. The finish coat will change the color a bit, enhancing the grain of the wood. Most outdoor "clear" finishes give some "ambering" to the wood it covers.


Does anyone have the name of a liquid that bonds to rust and produces a hard black finish? Years ago I purchased a thick substance/liquid in a small white plastic jar from Sears. It was a thick off-white liquid that one would paint onto a rusty metal surface. The liquid would change to a hard black finish that was quite strong. I cannot find it now. Does anyone know what I am searching for? It is not Rust-O-Leum. It is not a paint. It actually bonded to the rust.

I found it by searching. It is more than a primer. It actually bonds to the rust. It somehow chemically...does something...I read about it years ago.

A user must be extremely careful working with it. You don't want it on your skin. You don't want to drop a bit of rust into the jar. You don't want to double-dip a brush into the jar. The whole container could react and harden. You pour out or scoop out some into a separate container to use what you think you will need.

Oh...Duh...The name of the product...

It is called Permatex Rust Treatment. I used it years ago on my car. It worked well. You just have to follow the instructions and heed the warnings. I remember that it worked very well. It was much better than sanding, priming and painting. It reacts and somehow bonds to the rust itself.


How do I start a cold gas heater? The gas heater pilot light has been out for a couple of days, and I believe there is a safety mechanism that detects this, and shuts off the gas. Now, when I move the slider to the pilot light position and press the valve button, I don't hear any gas coming out. Is there anything I need to do to

You may not be able to hear the gas for the pilot light, it doesn't take much. Get a long match or lighter that can reach the pilot light and try to ignite it while holding down the valve button. That button overrides the thermocouple that will automatically shutoff the gas when it cools down. You need to hold the button long enough to heat the thermocouple back up while the flame is burning (30-60 seconds is usually good). Once the flame stays lit without holding the button, you can close the water heater back up and adjust the tank thermostat back to your normal temperature.


How do I wire a switch to a fixture that is served by wires in an iron pipe? I have wall sconces similar to the one pictured below in my apartment:

The only difference between this and the picture is in addition to containing the switch, there is a power outlet in the bottom of the fixture.  So, instead of having a light, then underneath it a switch controlling the light and an outlet somewhere else, it's all in one unit.

Long story short: I hate hate hate hate these sconces.  The light they give off is terrible, mainly because of that translucent glass "shade" that covers the bulb.

My intention is to replace these with a standard sconce, then below that a switch to control it.  So I don't lose the outlet, I was going to add an outlet further down the wall not controlled by the switch.  I set about digging into the plaster.

What I expected to find was BX that I could cut with a metal blade.  Instead, I found what looks like iron pipe.  I've seen this once before in my kitchen, but it was going into the ceiling.  This appears to be headed towards the floor (because I discovered it below the existing fixture).

What are my options here?  What is this pipe made of?  Can it be cut?  Do I need to rip the whole thing out of the wall?  Where does it end?

I live in a high rise building in UWS Manhattan NYC.  The building was built approximately 1957.  FWIW, the walls are a combination of concrete (hooray) and plaster on metal lath  (which is what this wall is made of).  It's a horrible mess dealing with that stuff, and I'd rather a) not do any more demolition and b) not my efforts so far count for nothing.

My inclination is to dig out just enough more plaster so I can get a pipe cutter around that pipe, just above and below where the new switch box will go.  Thus the remaining pipe will continue to armor the cable.  But obviously I've never done anything like this before.

Recommendations on specific tools and techniques are most welcome.  Also, feel free to tell me if it sounds like I'm in over my head here.

Picture of the pipe:

Do not cut the pipe. It may not be electric but water or gas (it looks like it may be black which is standard for gas).

A much simple approach is to drop a new line from the box behind the current sconce. This box obviously has one always on circuit. You can tap into this to run another circuit down the wall to a new outlet.  You also can add a pair of wires between the hot lead to the current light and a switch mid wall.

This requires using wiring that meets both local code and any restrictions your building may impose. In many jurisdictions this is non-metalic cable, but check.

If there are no hollows in the concrete (there would be if it were concrete block rather than solid concrete), you will need to cut a channel in the concrete to do this.

An alternative is to use surface mounted metal raceways and boxes, such as these.

Your inquiry suggests that you have very little experience with this type of project. Working alongside someone with more experience is highly desirable whn learing to work with electricty. I would urge an experienced helper, or turn to a pro.


Why is my power out? We got our electric shut off so we played the bill called electric company they said to turn off main switch so we did. They turned power on so we switched it on and still no power. We took off main switch put new one on and still no power. What would it be?

Tell your utility to come back out, as it sounds like something in the meter base got undone; either that, or your service drop/lateral's bad.  Either way, it's the utility's job to fix.


How can I dim LED recessed lights that are on the same switch as two ceiling fans without slowing the fans down? I have 6 LED Dimmable recessed lights on the same switch as two ceiling fans. There are currently two three way switches that control everything. I want to be able to dim the LED lights without slowing the fans or ruining the motors.
I have read through a few questions here and see discussions on a smart switch. I like that idea but not sure if it will work in my situation and achieve what i'm looking to do or which one to buy.

Open to any and all suggestions. Just don't want to have to find a way to create a new separate switch.

Not possible given the way the power reaches the fan

Do not use a dimmer on this fan setup.  The switches must remain plain switches.

The only option I see is to go to some sort of "smart tech" such as Philips HUE bulbs, with a stick-on wireless dimmer control.


Is it safe to mount a 65" TV to the wall using 1 and 1/2 inch lag bolts instead of 2 and 1/2 inch lag bolts? We are trying to mount a 65" TV in the basement. The studs in our wall are 1 and 1/2 inches deep, and behind that is concrete. The wall mount came with 2 and 1/2 inch lag bolts, but we really do not want to drill into the concrete. Can we buy 1 and 1/2 inch lag bolts and will it be safe to put up?

I would cleat the mounting using horizontal 2x4s or some thicker plywood mounted on the surface of the wall. It's less sightly, but you can distribute the weight along more studs. I would not try to mount it across only 2 studs using 1.5" screws.


After installing expansion tank, massive buildup of pressure then a trickle? I am completely stumped.  You guys helped me out a lot with my previous question here: What could be causing water to drip from the relief valve of my new gas water heater?

Turns out the expansion tank bladder was filled with water and needed to be replaced.  I got a new 2 gallon 100 psi max expansion tank but before putting it on I measured the water pressure at around 100 psi which seemed awfully high to me.  When I turned a faucet on the pressure would drop to around 50 psi and I would get a steady stream of moderate pressure.  It seemed to steady at around 68 psi so I used that as a good starting point.

Instructions that came with the tank said to install at 2 psi below normal cutoff pressure.  Thinking that was awfully specific, I set the air pressure in the new tank to 65 psi and installed it.

I ran the faucets a LOT to make sure I got all the air pockets out but now I notice bizarre fluctuations in my water pressure for the past few days.  I have normal water pressure in the basement, acceptable water pressure on the first floor, and virtually NO pressure at all on the upstairs floor, where this was never a problem before.

Leaving the gauge on downstairs the pressure would slowly continue to rise as high as 100 psi at times EVEN AFTER seriously turning the pressure regulator back.  When I turn the water on I get a good stream of water then 5 seconds later nothing but a trickle as the water pressure only reads 20 psi when the water is running.

So now I only see four possibilities:

The gauge is broke, there is no flippin way that I have my pressure regulator turned back that far and actually have 100psi build up in the pipes all the way from 20 psi.
The pressure regulator is broke, it is extremely old looking and doesn't have a PSI reading on it, just a hex bolt head that when turned out will decrease the pressure.
The new expansion tank is defective and slowly leaking air into the system causing me to have almost no pressure upstairs
I set the air pressure too high/low in the new expansion tank and it is causing havoc with my internal pressure.

About the only positive thing I can say about everything is that my safety relief valve on the water heater is no longer leaking water so I must have done something right.  Maybe I just need to increase the pressure to the house but if my pressure increases to 100 psi slowly while the water heater runs and I have an expansion tank rated for 100 psi then I am afraid I could be creating a dangerous situation.

Any suggestions?  I am going crazy over this and I stink because I can't take a proper shower ;)

Sorry to hear about your "odor" problem. Maybe there is a local public fountain you can take a dip into!!!

However, the problems you describe are fairly common, but may be tricky to isolate. Let's try some basics:
 Relieve the pressure from the bladder completely. Let the well pump fill the tank completely  and bleed any air from the system using the faucets with the pump running. Again, with the tank full of water, close all outlets and charge up the bladder to about 60PSI.  Most systems work fine between 45 to 65 PSI. Anything over 70 is pushing it. The tank needs to be charged when full, not empty.
Monitor the pressure as you draw water. Does the pump kick on constantly when the pressure reaches the low limit, and off at the high limit? This will help tell if the regulator is working properly.

Is there any pulsating water pressure at the faucets?

When you are sure you have a full tank, no air in the system, is your second floor water flow ample when the tank is reading 60psi?

There are a few "if's" here. Depending on how the pump behaves and the pressure responds, you have to determine if the problem is with the pump and volume of water being delivered to the tank, or if the pressure regulator is properly operating.

If you are still seeing any pulsating water pressure at the taps, then the bladder is water logged again.  If the bladder pressure drops too quickly, then most likely the volume of water from the pump is low. The pressure should remain fairly constant at the tank if all the functions of the pump and regulator are working properly.  Good Luck


CFL bulbs flash slightly even when turned off I've noticed in the last two houses I've lived in that CFL bulbs will periodically flash even when not turned on. It's about one flash a minute, and it's not very bright. You can only notice it when it's dark. I originally thought it might be power in the CFL circuitry leaking out after being turned on, but the flashing continues even if the lights haven't been powered up for days.

The wiring in both houses was old to start with, but then redone with new wiring, RCDs and so on. There is no voltage between the contacts in the socket when I check it with a multimeter, so how are the bulbs getting power to maintain a constant flash?

Any leakage current will cause CFLs to flash. I had to replace my porch light timer with a relay type because the sensor in my original one used a very slight amount of current to test if the bulbs were installed and working. And here's a similar problem I have been having, for which I have not yet found a suitable solution: I have some LED spotlights on a dimmer that ties in to a circuit with two other incandescent lamp system on dimmers.  Depending upon the setting of all three dimmers, the LED spots will flash. I think it is noisy contacts in the incandescent dimmers, and that small amount of pulsing is picked up by the LED circuit.  It is not annoying enough for me to delay any of my other projects to address it, as it only happens occasionally, and is mostly triggered by the chandelier setting.


What should I consider when converting a double-basin sink to a single-basin? I'm not a handyman. But I want to save money.
I've never worked with any plumbing (or electrical work (or pretty much any other diy work other than in the yard)).

We're remodeling our kitchen a little. We've placed an order for new counter-tops, but Lowe's has said that we have to handle the sink installation ourselves (or hire an outside contractor I guess). I'd like to do it myself, but this seems like a large project for a first-timer.

The current setup is a drop-in, double-basin sink with a disposal. We would like to install a single-basin, undermount sink, and convert the plumbing/disposal to accommodate this.

Could someone tell me what to expect here? First thing, I'm not sure how I'm supposed to handle installation if I can't install an undermount until they arrive with the counters to begin with. Beyond that though, how hard of a plumbing project is this?

Thanks for any tips.

Remove everything currently under the sink that is not glued and use a rags to plug the drain pipes.  Next, let the counter guys do there work and install the sink.  There is nothing to do until they are done.

After they are done, follow the install instructions on the disposal.  After that is done, mount a new p-trap kit from one of the drain pipes to the disposal outlet.  Choose which one works best.  The other drain pipe you will need to cap.  Since this is under a sink, you can use a compression based cap so if in the future you decide to go back to a two sink setup it will be an easy job to removing the cap.

There is no harm in trying and if you find it doesn't work/leak just call a plumber.  The plumber I use, this would just be a service call charge ($45) to install.

Also if you plan to reuse your current disposal, remove it and the mounting ring before the counter guys come.  I had a friend who had they counter/sink redone and the counter guys left with the disposal mounting ring still attached to the old sink.  They had to buy new hardware to mount their old disposal.


Safe location rules for bathroom sink receptacle and light switch Bathroom sink with mirror & vanity light. Presently, the vanity light switch and single receptacle are separate from each other and in awkward locations. I intend to put them together in a single box.

1) What are the safe-location rules for placing a receptacle at a bathroom sink? Examples: minimum height from counter or minimum distance from faucet.

2) Can I safely add a 2nd receptacle to the mix, resulting in a switch + receptacle + receptacle in a 3 gang box? I assume that I could use a single GFCI receptacle and chain a normal receptacle and switch to the load side of the GFCI receptacle to protect the whole chain.

(My thinking is that providing 2 x 2 = 4 places for low-power appliances like shaver & toothbrush chargers to be plugged and stay plugged is safer than needing to regularly swap cords when a hair dryer or similar is used.)

National Electrical Code says that the receptacle must be within 3' of the outside edge of the basin, but not more than 12" below the top of the basin (210.52(D)). It also states that the receptacle can be installed in the countertop, but must not be in the face-up position (406.5(E)).

Obviously the receptacles must be GFCI protected, since they're in a bathroom (210.8(A)(1)).

See also this answer from @Shirlock Homes.

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection

  Article 210 Branch Circuits

  210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets.

  (D) Bathrooms. In dwelling units, at least one receptacle
  outlet shall be installed in bathrooms within 900 mm (3 ft)
  of the outside edge of each basin. The receptacle outlet
  shall be located on a wall or partition that is adjacent to the
  basin or basin countertop, located on the countertop, or
  installed on the side or face of the basin cabinet. In no case
  shall the receptacle be located more than 300 mm (12 in.)
  below the top of the basin. Receptacle outlet assemblies
  listed for the application shall be permitted to be installed
  in the countertop.

  210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for
  Personnel. Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
  personnel shall be provided as required in 210.8(A) through
  (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter shall be installed in
  a readily accessible location.

  (A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and
  20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in
  210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuitinterrupter
  protection for personnel.

  (1) Bathrooms

  210.11 Branch Circuits Required.

  C) Dwelling Units.

  (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number
  of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at
  least one 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to
  supply bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall
  have no other outlets.

  Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single
  bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance
  with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

  Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use

  Article 406 Receptacles, Cord Connectors, and Attachment Plugs (Caps)

  406.5 Receptacle Mounting.

  (E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces.
  Receptacles shall not be installed in a face-up position
  in countertops or similar work surfaces.

NOTES:

As @ArchonOSX points out, there must be at least one 120-Volt 20-ampere circuit supplying the bathroom small appliance branch circuit. This circuit can have no other outlets, unless it only supplies equipment in a single bathroom and any other outlets are in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2). (See 210.11(C)(3) above)


How to reduce the sheen of a wall paint? I got the same color of existing wall color. But the problem is that even though the existing paint is at the least glossiness, it is still a lot more glossy than the old walls. Is there any paint or method I can use to reduce the glossiness of wall paint so I can match the old walls with the paint I got?

Edit:
To further the conversation. Is there any coating paint that will reduce the sheen gradually by the number of layers being applied. For example, when I apply first layer, it will dull the sheen for certain percentages, and then the second layer will dull the sheen for certain amount, until I can very closely match the surrounding color and sheen?

No.   The paint doesn't have a glossy "finish", the gloss is built into the paint.   You must repaint.    Anything that "deglosses" your wall will certainly hurt the quality of your paint job and with 100% certainty will not match your other wall.


Dishwasher drain backing up into sink Just a couple days ago my kitchen sink started to get clogged and now won't drain. My sink is divided into two sections; both will fill up with water. When I run the garbage disposal, the sink with the garbage disposal empties just for a few seconds, but it looks like that water is just moving into the section on the right, and once I stop the garbage disposal, the left sink then fills up again.

My dishwasher has water sitting in the bottom of it, and yesterday it was leaking onto the floor. When the dishwasher drains, it drains only partially and all the water from the dishwasher ends up in the sink.

I tried vigorously plunging it, I poured plenty of boiling water into the drain, and I have tried drain cleaner with no luck.

I was thinking about buying a snake, but wanted to get input on any other ideas as I am definitely not a plumber.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

You have a clog somewhere in your line. The first thing to do is check out your P-Trap because it's fairly easy and doesn't require any tools (assuming the nuts weren't tightened by Hercules). If that doesn't work then it's time for a snake. Snake by removing the trap and going in under the sink. Then you won't have to navigate the P-Trap and will have an easier time.

Look around for cleanouts. If you can't reach the clog from under the sink, moving to a different, downstream access point might bring you close enough to get it.


How can I mount an LCD TV onto the *wall* of an RV? I have an RV and I want to mount a flat panel LCV TV onto the wall of the RV. Most people who put LCD's into their RVs put them up above the driver where wooden cabinetry exists, but I do not want to do that.

I want to mount the TV onto the wall of the RV, but I cannot find information about the nature of the walls -- are there studs, and if so, how far apart, how uniform, and of what material? Aside from studs, how much can the wall itself hold? What materials are made to even construct RV walls?

So ... how can I mount a 42-inch LCD TV onto the wall of my RV? And along with that, any information you can provide or point to about how RV walls are constructed would be most appreciated!

Best bet - call the dealer or find the manual. Chopping up something like this is a risky proposition without documentation (manuals) or a knowledgeable tech because while you may find something with a stud finder you have no way of cutting into it and making sure you are not cutting into wiring/plumbing/vents/etc. Unless you want to pull the entire wall or rent an ir/magnetic camrea, you cannot do this with absolute certainty.


Central AC Tripping Circuit Breaker (sometimes) When my AC first turns on, it will typically trip the circuit breaker shortly after the compressor and fan start up. If I reset the breaker, and turn the AC back on, it will usually run just fine and cool the house to the set temperature. Of course, the problem occurs again when the temperature at the thermostat rises and triggers the AC to start up again. It sometimes takes two or three resets of the breaker to get the AC to start up. My guess is that the compressor is drawing too much current for some reason – but I don’t know why it’s inconsistent, and I don’t know how to go about troubleshooting this. Any tips before I call out the repair man? The unit is getting close to 15 years old so I’m assuming they’re just going to suggest I replace it.

Before you call a repair person, check the following: Look at the UL label of the outdoor unit.   Find the item marked "Minimum Circuit Ampacity."  This is the minimum size of circuit breaker required for your unit.  Verify that your tripping breaker is at least this big.  If it is too small, then you may need to upgrade the electric service to the unit.

It is normal for a compressor to pull more power during initial startup when pressure on the high and low sides have not yet stabilized and the expansion valve is fully open.  After the pressures stabilize and the expansion valve closes somewhat, there is typically a smaller load on the compressor than at startup.  The most likely cause for your compressor to over amp during startup is that the run capacitor for the compressor is a little weak.  A weak capacitor will still start the compressor, but the compressor will draw higher amperage than it is meant to.  This is a $15-$25 part.  The existing capacitor can be tested with a multimeter that checks capacitance.  If the measured value is less than 90% of the labeled value, then the capacitor must be replaced.  Make certain the replacement has an equal or greater voltage rating than the original.  The capacitance rating must be the same as the original.


How tight should baseboards be for laminate? So, I'm a little stumped on this one.  I've installed laminate over a pad, but because of the way that the boards click in and the fact that it's a floating floor, the parts that end near the edges (particularly the last row that runs parallel to the wall) has a little bit of bounce to it.  Not really anywhere else, just the last row because it's not on a laser level subfloor (concrete basement) and the pad itself has some squish to it.

So the problem is, when you step on the last board it travels a little bit.  I can install the baseboard tight to the laminate (still allows it to slide under the baseboard for expansion), but even then it still produces a squeak with the subtle friction between the baseboard and the floor board.  I could install the baseboard loose, but then the last row would move up and down (which would be a little weird) and I'm guessing whould "whack" the base if I put it up too high.

What's the right way to do it?  Most instruction I see just say "nail your baseboard up and have a drink" and the ones that actually say anything usually say to keep the base tight (though many are for wood floors that don't flex so much).

The last board is not secure to the wall ,and has plenty of movement - buy some talcum powder aka baby powder and place that under neath your floor boards and between the racks (joints) . It will act as a lubricant. Secure your baseboard tightly.

Here is a link you can read more about it.


Skim coat stucco with stucco I need to skim coat an existing painted stucco facade with stucco to a sand finish, will it adhere if I use an adhesive on the facade and in the stucco mix or should I rotohammer dimples in the facade every 3-4 inches

It largely depends on the finish of the "existing painted stucco", but most exterior finishes are rough enough that they provide a good mechanical key for anything plastered on top. You can use a PVA based primer as insurance, but [under usual circumstances] what is most likely to fail in the future is not the key between your most recent stucco and old one, but rather the key between the old stucco and the wall or the key between the old paint and the old stucco. So if want to rotohammer something, the best thing to do is use a wide chisel and remove the old stucco completely.

Since you're covering the old stucco eventually, you can test in a small and less visible area by apply your new stucco on top, let it dry/cure then try to remove it and see what comes off. You'll have to repair/refill a small area probably but if you want to be certain on the adherence issues this is what most pros do.


Gas fireplace won't stay lit I have a new construction home with a gas fireplace (Copreci VCS-ECOMOD) that won't stay on when lit. If I leave the pilot on, the pilot is stable and stays lit indefinitely. Once I light the fireplace, the fireplace will come on and run for about 5-10 minutes then shut off. When this happens, the pilot also shuts off. After 3-5 seconds the pilot will come back on, and then I can light fireplace again. After a few cycles of this, I get a double beep, which looking at the manual is telling me there is unstable pilot. The fireplace is turned on manually through a control panel or via a simple remote. The fireplace has only a thermocouple (no thermopile). Visually, the flame touching the thermacouple when only pilot is lit, or when fireplace is lit looks blue and healthy and largely covering the thermacoupler.
Trouble shooting steps I've taken so far:

Cleaned out the holes use air compressor where flames come out, including at igniter and thermocouple.
Used sand paper to clean the thermocouple thoroughly.
Used a voltmeter to measure a healthy 18mA from the thermocouple.
Ensured there are new batteries (although not needed) in the power backup box.
Adjusted flame so that it is blue coming out with yellow tips - does not have the "soot" appearance.

Any help of what to try next would be highly appreciated!

Looks like I had to rotate the pilot flame a few degrees to get it to better align with the thermocouple, especially when the fireplace was lit. This seems to have resolved the issue.


How can I replace missing parapet wall "joint caps"? My home has a fiberglass roof deck with parapet wall surrounding it. The parapet wall is covered in aluminum (at least I think its aluminum) that matches the vinyl siding and color of the fiberglass roof deck. There are distinct sections that cover the parapet, and at the seams - in most places - there are small ~3" wide covers. You can see one in the photo here:

When we bought the house, for some reason about 4 of these were missing. Which is very strange because we are in a row of 5 houses, all exactly the same, but only our house has these missing, and it's only on the very front wall. So they now look like this:

And here you can see both a missing one, and others that are in place:

How can I go about getting something to replace the missing caps? They seem to be aluminum (though I'm not 100% sure). A roofer told me to ask at a building supply store, but they were totally baffled. I can't seem to find anything like this online. In fact, I'm having trouble even figuring out what the call these things. I've found a handful of terms in my research, including:

Joint Cap
Cap Flashing
Cover Plate / Cover Strip
ERC Strip (no idea what that stands for)
Slip Expansion Cap
Slip Cleat
Drive Cleat Expansion Joint

But I don't know if any of these are the appropriate term for what I'm looking for, and I haven't been able to find anything that would work to replace these. I'm unable to find any markings on the siding or elsewhere to indicate who might possibly make these (I'm guessing something like that would be under the siding?). I'm at a complete loss on how to replace these things.

Does anyone have any idea how I might find something to replace these? I don't even care if the color doesn't match, because anything would look better than how it looks now.

On the jobs I have done like this we used scraps and folded them with duct work pliers (wide flat jaws). If they were fastened at all it would have been on the underside with a small #4 or #6 nail on each side to hold them in place, but usually just a bead of calking to seal the seam and nails that hold them in place. Don’t nail through the top or you have an ugly spot again.

I would check around any place that does siding and take a photo of your material with a white piece of paper in the shot for color balance. They may have some pieces of a similar material and may cut you a couple of strips for $10. I have gotten pieces for next to nothing in the past for being polite and just asking if they have something close. Good luck.


Concrete screws not going in all the way I'm attempting to use tapcon 1/4in by 2.75in concrete screws to affix something to a wall of poured concrete, but it's only going about 3/5 of the way in before refusing to go any further. I used the recommended tapcon drill bit size so I don't think that's the issue, and I've also air blasted all the dust out. What else could it be? Do I just need a more powerful drill? A smaller size screw?

https://imgur.com/a/PC2wkQS

That's far too long a screw for that application. 2-3/4" screws are designed for mounting 2x4 lumber, for example, which would leave just 1-1/4" of penetration or so.

Concrete screws, especially thinner ones like that, should only engage the concrete maybe an inch or a bit more. If you try running that in with a stronger drill it'll almost certainly snap.

Try the 1-1/4" screws, and be aware that running them in more than once usually results in the threaded concrete failing due to the grinding effect of insertion. They should be a once-and-done install. Move to a new hole if that one doesn't seem to hold with a shorter screw, or use some epoxy to rebuild the bond.


Can you change the colour of frosted glass easily? I Have a frosted white glass table that i want to change the colour to a black frosted look, can i paint over the white? Would this work or how else can i turn it into a black frosted glass table?

No, it's not easily changed. I strongly suspect that you'd be better off living with it white, or trading it for a black one, as any paint-based solution will be far inferior to actual colored glass in appearance and durability.

The best possible paint option might be to paint the bottom black, but it may not give the look you want - however, painting the top black will give you simply the look a black painted surface, not a "frosted glass surface" at all.

You might want to use plasti-dip (or something similar) if experimenting with paint - it can be peeled off most surfaces if you change your mind.

But I'd suggest leaving it alone as being the most likely to succeed.


How to remove this cartridge? Any ideas on how to get this cartridge out? I've tried to remove the nut but the whole valve under the sink turns as well. I did remove the clip after taking the picture. Thanks in advance.

You can first try removing the wire spring clip from the stem and then try to turn the bonnet nut assembly. If the whole unit still turns then keep the unit from turning by using channel lock pliers or vise grip to hold the unit in place. Make sure to use a towel to protect the threads. Once the bonnet nut is remove then twist out the valve stem.


Remove metal clothesline I would like to remove two metal clothesline poles in my backyard. I was thinking of doing it by digging around the poles and cutting using a reciprocating saw.
Is this a decent method? It may be important to note that I would be using a Ryobi battery powered saw, which may not have the same oomph that electric saws have. The pole is shown in the back by the fence.
Should I be buying a particular blade for metal? I am a bit of a noob.

IMO the best option is to dig The whole thing out.

A sabre saw with the right blade  will cut it but you'll be left with 5cm+ of jagged pipe sticking out of the ground.

A grinder will cut it down further and tidy the edges, but will still be ugly.

Get digging.


Is it possible to smooth over these drywall imperfections? I'm having a contractor do renovations in my kitchen, and we are converting a wall into a half wall with countertop.  He just started doing the drywall, and from my inexperienced eye it looks like he is doing a terrible job. I've got some pictures below, and I'd appreciate feedback if this can be finished properly or if I should insist that he redo it.

Here there are large gaps between the existing drywall and new drywall.  The surface of the existing drywall is also torn off.

This is the ceiling and there is a large gap around the light fixture.

Another example of gaps between drywall pieces and the switch box.

Is it possible to fix it?  yes, but there is an awful lot of work to be done in order to do so.  Each of those gaps has to be filled with mud and covered with tape.  Given the shrinkage that occurs as mud dries, most of them are going to require several layers to fill properly.  In particular, filling in around the ceiling fixture is likely to be problematic as gravity will be pulling the mud down, keeping it where it needs to be without building up a large bulge will take some time.

I would not necessarily make someone rework the drywall over these images, but I definitely would not sign off on the work until I was satisfied that everything had been properly finished.  Make sure you are happy with the way things look before and after it is painted. Often putting paint on makes the imperfections stand out more.


Light switch with power to the light first Can I get power from the switch when power goes into the light first? I would like to add another light with a separate switch.

Depends on the location and age of the building. Modern U.S. code usually requires the presence of a neutral wire in all switch boxes.

Look at the number of conductors entering the switch box. Two conductors, both connected to switch terminals, means older style wiring, and you are out of luck. You'll have to run the new circuit from the light.

Three conductors, one capped off with a wire nut, means newer style wiring, and you can draw power from the switch box. The capped white wire is the neutral, and one of the connected wires -- usually the black one -- is the hot supply. But check everything with your favorite diagnostic device to make sure.

As always, be careful not to touch any wires when diagnosing a live circuit, turn off -- and verify that it is off -- the power at the breaker box before handling the wires, and never change or install anything until you are certain that you know the path and purpose of every existing wire.


How to wire gfci-switch-gfci I want to wire a new exterior front of house gfci WR outlet, from an existing garage gfci.   I would like this new exterior outlet to be on a switch, so I'm thinking the wiring will be

Source -> garage GFCI -> switch -> exterior GFCI.

My question is basically how to do the specifics, and do I need pig tails anywhere.  I'm thinking:

black/hot:  source to LINE on garage gfci, LOAD from garage gfci to switch, 2nd switch terminal to LINE on exterior gfci

white/neutral: source to LINE on garage gfci, LOAD from garage gfci to LINE on exterior gfci

All switches, boxes, and outlets will be grounded via ground wire and metal boxes.

What you propose will work (assuming you’re also connecting grounds). However, you have no reason to use a GFCI outlet on the load side of the first. In fact, you don’t want to use one. Outdoor GFCI outlet don’t last, even with a an outdoor cover.

If you get a ground fault outside, there is no guarantee that the outdoor GFCI will trip first.

Just use a good quality normal outlet downstream of the switch and garage GFCI. Don’t forget to label that outlet “GFCI protected”.

Edit: as Harper noted in his answer, if you really want the GFCI Outside (so you can reset it there, for example), don’t put it downstream of the inside GFCI. Instead of connecting to the LOAD terminals, instead connect to the wires feeding the LINE side. You’ll probably need to use wirenuts to add pigtails (short wires) to connect the indoor outlet.


Digital brewery controller: What buck/boost configuration to get to 240VAC from 208VAC? First of all, I live in the United States.

I own a 240VAC digital control panel and am considering leasing a warehouse space that only has 208VAC. The control panel contains a digital computer, and drives a 5.5kW heating element along with a couple of small centrifugal pumps.

The control panel will remain plugged in, but the driven loads will cycle on and off, under software control.

So I know what I'm talking about when I speak to an electrician, I'd appreciate some opinions on the ideal number of transformers, along with configuration and ratings.

The landlord gave me a build-out quote of $8,900 for transformers, a 240V outlet, and four 120V outlets. I think that's high.

I'd appreciate some education.

With the Direct Fire Gas Control Panel that you have, the Specifications on the web site state 30a, 240v electric, single phase (for safety, please use GFCI protection) so you need to make sure that that GFCI is added to your list. With that said I would ask for a brake down of what that $8,900 is for, it sound a little high to me. All of that work could be done in one day with 2 people.  Also ask the landlord if you could get your own estimate, if he refuses then ask why. Most landlord will let you do what you want (with in the law) as long as you put it back the why you found it when you leave. If you do go with the landlords quote make sure that you get to keep everything that you are paying for.


identifying drainage problems without pulling up the floor Help. We bought a house 2 yrs ago and remodeled it to within an inch of its life. Both my husband and I have mold allergies. The house is on a slab so we pulled all carpet and put in moisture barrier and new bamboo flooring. The flooring is continuous throughout the whole house. In Jan the water heater leaked and took out the flooring in a couple of rooms. We had a water remediation company that dealt with the damage and we hired someone to rebuild. Now we have several areas in an adjacent part of the house smell like mold and the flooring is been getting ever so slightly warped - I thought maybe the flooring was installed too tight but the boards are getting increasingly worse. There is no other evidence of the mold besides the faint smell and us getting sicker and sicker. I called the water remediation company who said there is no way for them to determine where this is coming from. I had a leak detection company come and they determined there is no active leak from our plumbing. They found several areas of moisture, ranging from 25-30% and said that is way too high, we either have damage from the water heater in Jan or we have drainage problems. How the heck do we figure out if we have drainage problems without ripping out the flooring? If we start ripping out the flooring and it lets mold out we have to move. The water remediation co does not want to be involved unless we determine they are the cause. Is there someone who can say for sure we have drainage problems? I am so confused as to what to do next.

My initial reaction is that it is still moisture from the January incident.

Concrete can be water-tight but most poured slabs are still very porous and water will seep into many of tiny bubbles of the concrete and persist for a very long time.  Though the remediation company may have come and dried the floor, the slab may still have water and it is evaporating.  Replacing the floor too soon may have just trapped the moisture, slowing its drying and placing your flooring into nearly direct contact with the moisture, barrier or not.  Your climate could affect this too, live in the southern US for example it is going to take a lot longer to evaporate than in Colorado.

I personally would rip up the flooring, buy just a consumer grade dehumidifier and run it for a few months; wait a month without it running and then test for moisture again.  Testing the sheetrock near the floor with a hydrometer will also help determine if there is a moisture problem too.

It is a pain, but the pain and patience will protect your investment.  Selling a house with suspected mold is not always easy, but not disclosing the damage is also risky.

By drainage problem you are a bit vague... or they were.  If it is a problem with the sanitary line, it might require a plumber to determine that and at worst, digging up the slab!  Drainage problem could be also that your landscaping is holding water up against the house which eventually could make its way into your living spaces as moisture.

One other thought.

If the flooring had been reinstalled in the winter, it could be the changes in humidity that could be stressing your flooring. But given your situation and what some professionals have told you, I would find it unlikely.


Water turns cold after water heater circulation pump is off I have Rheem water heater and newly installed circulation pump. I am facing a weird situation with the circulation pump which is that the circulation pump is set to run between(4PM-9PM). When I take shower in the bathroom upstairs, at 10 PM. the water is barely lukewarm. However, when I take shower when pump is on, the water is hot.
I do expect the water to be hot enough after the circulation pump is off. This is because I expect that water has been heating up for 5 hours, there may be some cold water in pipes but once that water runs out, I should be receiving the hot water from the heater directly. I was in the shower for 20 minutes and I received lukewarm water for all 20 minutes.
Am I having the wrong expectation here?

Your expectation is correct, once the warm water is flushed you should then have hot.
There are 2 types of recirculating systems one one uses the cold line and has the pump and check valve (I believe this is the type you have) in a recirculating system on the cold line if the check valve fails it ends up being a mixing system.
A 3 line system has a separate line the hot is recirculated on the second line so it would not be long even with a failure until all the water in both lines was hot.
So check your pump system as I believe the valve is allowing the hot to mix with the cold while in use and that should not happen.


Should particle board treads be removed before finishing my stairs? The. Builder installed temporary stairs of particle board.
Should we remove these prior to installing the
Permanent stairs and risers?

Purpose-built bullnose 1-1/4" particle board treads are a common and perfectly acceptable permanent tread solution. They've been the standard under carpeting in my region since at least the 1980s.

image source

The only time they're a concern is when there's significant moisture contact, but then there are usually other problems of larger magnitude.

Now if you're asking because you're putting in full-thickness (1" or better) hardwood treads, then yes, you'd remove those.


Why won't my hose bib handle turn either way? The handle on my outdoor hose bib won't turn at all.  The faucet is currently partially on and the handle will not turn either way.  How can I fix it so it will work properly?

The acme thread that allows the valve to open and shut has either galled or seized due to mineral deposits. At this point, you need to remove and replace the whole valve.

Since we don't have a picture, it's difficult to give further advice, but if it's a standard frost free, the valve is actually 8-12 inches back inside a tube on a long, easily broken valve stem and it's not easily repaired once it seizes.


Confusing Junction Box I'm dealing with a junction box for an outdoor patio wall sconce that has three separate sets of black/white/ground.  House was just painted, and the old sconce was already taken off, so I had nothing to reverse-engineer.  The junction box to the left of this one was "normal".  This junction box looks like a "flux capacitor".  2 of the wire triplets are at the top left and right, and one at the bottom.

Any help figuring out how to appropriately wire a new sconce to this traffic jam of a junction box would be very appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

Divide and conquer

First, tie all the grounds together with an additional 6" pigtail of ground (your next lamp will use this) and push all that into the back of the box.

Next, stick a wire-nut cap, and tape, each of the wires.  You will need at least black and possibly red electrical tape.

You will also need a non-contact voltage tester, unless you want to get fancy with splicing wires to a lamp socket one at a time.

Hunt for the supply cable

Turn on the switch which controls this light.   Now use the non-contact tester to sense for voltage on each of the wires.  You should find it on one black wire.   If two black wires are energized, or a white wire, that is trouble.

Now turn off the switch for this light.  Does the power go away? We need to know that.

Now turn the switch back on.  Has anything else in the house lost power?

Also is there another lamp meant to be switched by this same switch?

Black wire switches on/off with the switch

This one is easy.  The black is a switched-hot.  Mark it with 3-4 wraps of red tape.  Since there's no other source of power, all the other blacks must also be switched-hots. Mark them with red tape also.

On your new lamp, mark the black (or brown) wire with red tape.  If the lamp has a light blue wire, mark that white (in your mind if you don't have any white tape).

Nut all the white wires together.   Nut all the red wires together.   DONE!

Black wire is hot regardless of switch position

First, wrap black tape around the pair of wires as far back as you can, this is to mark them as the always-hot supply cable.

This will need a little more detective work.  One of the two remaining pairs is actually a switch loop.  The two wires are shorted out when the switch is on.  It would have been neat if the last guy had marked it with tape, like he's supposed to, so look for that.    Or if you have an ohmmeter, you can switch the power off, then test which white/black pair has infinity ohms with the switch off, and near zero ohms with the switch on.

If you have the new lamp, you can first tape its black (or brown) wire red, then attach the lamp's white to the supply's white (these are neutral), then pick a cable and connect its black to supply black and its white to lamp red, making a triangle of wires (with one set still dangling). Re-energize.

If working the switch causes this lamp to switch from off to full power, you have found your switch loop.  De-energize and  unhook it.  Mark the switch loop's black wire with red tape (switched hot), and its white wire with black tape (always-hot).  Pull the switch and mark the wires on that end the same way.

If it doesn't work, try the other cable.  If neither one works, I am stumped, it's electrician time.

Now the question of the third cable

If it goes to  another lamp that is meant to be switched with this one, then mark its black wire with red tape.

If it goes to supply continuous power to something else that is now dead, then leave the black wire black (or tape it black to reflect that you have identified it).

It has to be one of these two things.

Finally...

Get some wire nuts and nut all the white wires together.  Nut all the black wires together.  Nut all the red wires together.  DONE!


Intermittent Partial Filling of Tank The toilet flushes and sometimes has a delay of a few minutes before starting to refill. Then after it is done, it seems like every couple hours it turns on again and partially fills like some water has leaked out and gone below a threshold.

If the fill valve puts water into the reservoir every few hours this indicates that water is leaking through the flush flapper that neds to be replaced. If the fill valve does not flow water as soon as the toilet is flushed to refill the reservoir then the fill valve should be replaced. Both items are not expensive and are replaceable They can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, or any hardware or plumbing supply store.


Removing Drop-in Sink Mounting Clips I'm attempting to replace an old kitchen sink with a same-size drop in sink, but I'm having trouble removing the old sink clips.
Some of them were accessible so I just unscrewed them as expected, but others are not so accessible.
Any tips on how I might remove these? Maybe a specific tool I should use? No need to preserve them for future use.

I would say remove the triangle braces, an oscillating saw would work well (this is the one i own) or break them out with Channel lock (adjustable) pliers. I suppose you could drill a hole through them as well so you can get a screwdriver on them.
You can glue them back in after the new sink is in.
For the middle one you may be able to get a screwdriver in behind it and manipulate it out enough to get another screwdriver on it. Or cut away a notch to access the head.