What size wire for 150 A main electrical service Recently had the electrical panel upgraded and relocated. The electrician showed me the main wires coming from the street (in to the meter) and indicated they were 1/0 aluminum. The  breaker panel had a 125 A main breaker, and he put in a 150 A main breaker on the new panel (the new panel is a 200 A panel). He replaced the wires from the meter to the panel with new copper (forget the gauge). From what I've seen around here on DIY.SE, though, 1/0 Al is sufficient for only 125 A, not 150. Should I be worried?

I'm in the Houston, Texas metro area.

We never tripped the 125 A breaker, but did add a 50 A 240 V receptacle for EV charging. No EV yet, and its breaker is off, so we're not drawing any more current than we used to. I'm not really worried about an immediate problem, only once we get the EV.

It depends on when the work was done, and which version of the code was being followed.  In the 2011 code and before, there was Table 310.15(B)(7). This table listed the service and feeder conductor size for 120/240 volts, 3-Wire, Single-Phase Dwelling Services.  The table listed 1/0 AL to be used for 125 ampere services.

The 2014 version of the code omitted this table, because folks were simply using the values, and not applying correction and/or adjustment factors properly. The 2014 version allowed you to size the conductors to 83% of the service rating, which usually worked out to about the same as the old table.

Looking at your 150 ampere service as an example (Excluding any temperature or other adjustments).

150 ampere x 0.83 = 124.5

Table 310.15(B)(16) says that 1 AWG copper is good for 130 amperes at 75C. So if no adjustments were needed, 1 AWG would be allowed as service conductors for a 120/240 volts, 3-Wire, single-phase dwelling service.


Major Leak at pressure gauge inside my well house It was just discovered that my well house has been leaking at the pressure gauge profusely for who knows how long I'm going to guess a minimum of 6 weeks. I cannot locate a main water shut off arm as it shows in other diagrams. I have the power off to the well house. I do realize that the whole well house is going to have to be redone more than likely in all the other issues along with that. Can I replace the pressure gauge myself properly with a new one and re- pressurized the tank itself without causing further damage? Is that all they would need to be done urgently to restore water to my house? Or is there more? I am a single mom and cannot afford a repairman out here but I have to have water. I would be ever so grateful for your advice

Buy a shoulder nipple and an isolation valve when you pick up a new pressure gauge. This will make future gauge changes easy. If it's an oil filled pressure gauge add a 90 degree street elbow so gauge sits upright. Then cut the vent on top of gauge or it may read wrong.
Whatever type of gauge you buy, shut off the isolation valve and open only when you need to check pressure. The gauge will last much longer when it's not subject to fluctuations in pressure.


Where do I need to insulate my house to help avoid ice dams? We have had some leaking this past winter due to ice dams. After we get everything dried out, we would like to put up some insulation to help prevent this in the future. Is insulating the ceiling enough or do we need to insulate along the actual beams of the house (we have easy access to a crawl space along part of the roof but not for an addition to part of the house which was where the main problem was)?

Ice damns are caused by heat rising to the underside of the roof, heated it and melting the snow, where it refreezes as ice.

You need to make sure no hot air is leaving your house - insulate thoroughly.

Airflow is also crucial - make sure you leave baffles to provide airflow from the eaves to every part of the attic. If you have a "one and a half" or similar you need to provide that channel of air between the corner (of roof) crawl spaces and the proper attic.

A well ventilated attic, with no heat bleeding into it, will not ice dam!


Do all outlets in detached workshop need to be tamper resistant? Ok, I just failed my inspection.   The inspector made some good catches.  The only thing I question is he said all outlets in the detached workshop need to be tamper resistant.  We are still on the 2014 NEC, and I thought I only needed tamper resistant outlets in the house.  Does the shop really need TR outlets?

Yes it is required by the 2014 NEC, the 2014 Code says:
406.12 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles. Tamper-resistant receptacles shall be installed as specified in 406.12(A) through (C).
(A) Dwelling Units. In all areas specified in 210.52, all nonlocking-type 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles shall be listed tamper-resistant receptacles.


How can I install an electrical plug without a stud nearby? I need to place an electrical outlet where there is no stud. Where can I find outlets to do this?

If you're installing it in a drywall wall, you'd use what's known as an old work box.

They can be found on Amazon


Can I use aluminum or plastic sheeting between decking and joists to waterproof under a deck? I'm trying to build a deck where I can use the few feet under it as storage space.

I'm thinking of using 8mil (or 10mil, if nessacary) plastic sheet or vinyl sheet between the joists and the decking. Edit: 20" wide Aluminum flashing is also an option

The plastic or aluminum sheets would have to be cut in a way that one side is wider than the other, so when secured to the parallel joists, it would form a gradual slope of excess material.

I would custom bend some aluminum flashing at 90 degrees that would drain directly onto the plastic from under the siding. Vertically, where this deck attaches to the house would be at the last two runs of the siding, and the bottom of the ledger would be lined up with the top of the concrete foundation. The concrete is about 4 feet above ground, I shouldn't need any further drainage below the deck

I would either use an oversized rim joist with a gutter at the end to catch the runoff, or place a beam in a place where I can put a gutter on it.

Question 1: Does this setup seem sane, safe, and effective?

Question 2: I would prefer to use cedar decking, but I'm not sure if the wood on plastic would trap water and cause rot issues. Can I use real wood here, or must I use composite?

Question 3: What would maintenance be like for this system? Would there be potential ice issues in the winter?

Question 4: Would I be better off sandwiching the plastic between the joists and a layer of PT 1x2 instead of between the decking and joist?

Site-built deck drainage

Here is an article in Fine-homebuilding on site-built deck drainage.

In this article they use EPDM rubber roofing material.

I wouldn't hesitate to use this or creative alternatives, but I wouldn't consider this as a "waterproof/roof" system. I would consider it rain-proof where it diverts rain and rain-runoff from underneath the deck.

Retail deck drainage

There are products available that are designed for this as well. Like Timbertech Dryspace for example.

My opinion

Using either a site-built or retail product, I still wouldn't store anything under there that would be ruined from getting a little bit of moisture now and then.

If you want a real waterproof roof, then build it as a code-approved roof with code-approved materials installed how they were intended to be installed.

Issues

One potential issue I can think of right off the bat is that dirt and debris will collect in there, so do you have a plan on cleaning this out? You will need access from time to time to at least stick a hose at the highest part to rinse it out.

Another potential issue is that this would limit the airflow and potentially increase the humidity between the decking and drainage material. This could contribute to things like cupping or premature finish failure on wood decking.

Real Roof (info as requested in comments)

60mil vinyl can be considered an approved roofing surface. You would use something like this if you are not putting another surface over the deck.

Another roofing option (if you wanted to add wood planks) would be to do flat roof (i prefer a torch-down roof): then build panels out of your deck surface, or attach the decking to sleepers (see image below), or use wood tiles


Stud sensor finds current on large wall area The detached garage for my home was built by the previous owner in 2000, the garage interior is naked particle board directly on wood studs, and the insulation has paper backing (not foil).  When using the electrical sensor on the Stanley 77-110 stud sensor, most of an entire wall surface shows current (other walls do not).  When I turn off the breaker for the outlets, the current disappears.  How do stud sensors actually sense current, and should I be concerned?

How do stud sensors actually sense current,

Basic stud sensors are designed to detect the edges of wooden studs, they are not designed to detect live electric wiring in the wall. Electronic stud detectors are sensing changes in the dielectric constant of the wall.

Some stud sensors also incorporate a separate type of detector for detecting live electrical wiring.

These electricity detectors don't sense current at all. What they sense is voltage alternating at 50 or 60 cycles a second. There are separate devices for sensing current. This distinction is important because an alternating voltage of 110 (or 230) volts is detectable (and potentially dangerous) even if there is currently no detectable current.

non-contact voltage (NCV) detectors generally sense alternating voltage (an alternating electric field) using capacitive coupling. Which means they are very dependent on operating conditions.

Fluke have a description that you may find helpful.

  and should I be concerned?

No, false or non-localised detection is a common problem with this type of detector. You may be able to get a more useful indication by following the calibration instructions for the device, by adjusting the sensitivity control (where present), by being careful where you place your free hand or by adjusting the distance of the device from the surface of the wall.

See also

When doing electrical work, what do I use to check wires are safe?
Electric shock - was I stupid, unlucky, or a combination of both?
Wikipedia - Test Light


Self propelled mower loses power then slowly dies when self propel is engaged Mower is a Craftsman Platinum EZ walk push mower with electric push button start(as well as pull start). Briggs&Stratton engine/7.25/190cc/model 917.370930. It was purchased in 2012 brand new, used about 3 times then given to me in 2015. I did not even attempt to use it until 2016 summer. Used one time that summer. Has been stored inside until I took it out last week.

Charged battery for push button start, changed oil, spark plug, air filter etc...I couldn't get it to push button start, but pull starts fine. Started mowing, using self propel. Did great, then started noticing after mowing for about 25 or 35mins, when I would engage self propel, it would lose power. Would still run, but obviously not at full strength. So I kept mowing without self propel... did fine. Then about 25 more mins into it, I tried self propel again and it ran with very little power then sort of faded out. No sputtering or theatrics... just literally, slowly died. Why is it doing that? As long as I don't use self propel 30mins into my mowing, it runs like a gem till it's outta gas.

My bet is you've got some build-up in the carburator from the idle season. I would try buying some gum remover or buy some pre-mix 4-cycle gas (typically high in detergents) and see if that cleans it out.


Attaching towel rail to drywall I'm considering attaching a new towel rail to the drywall in my bathroom, with attachment points approximately marked by the yellow postit notes in this picture.

This is on the 21st floor of a condo building in Montreal (built in 2014). The building manager said the drywall is approximately 1" thick (a full inch! not a centimeter).

Is this really possible? (I haven't been able to get confirmation from anyone else).
If the drywall is really 1" thick, will the usual drywall anchors be effective? Usually the pictures I see of drywall anchors have them exceed the thickness of the drywall by around 1/2", and have expanders which end up significantly expanded after the screw is inserted. However, most anchors are at most 1" long, and in a 1" thick drywall, there probably won't be much room for the expanders to expand. Will this decrease the effectiveness of the anchors?
Another issue is the nearby thermostat/light switches. How do I make sure to avoid any of their wiring when drilling in the drywall anchors? Is it important to avoid them? Part of this I suppose comes down to how the wires are arranged behind thew all. Will they for example come bundled in a metal tube? (In this case hitting the metal tube may cause the tube to flex undesirably?
Is there anything else I need to watch for? How can I tell if there's plumbing behind the wall?
If I gently drill a small hole, poke into the hole with a toothpick and check there's nothing within an inch behind the wall to worry about, is that a guarantee I'll be fine?

Figure out what is there first
As you noted, there are wires, and possibly plumbing (though less likely) in the wall. Drilling a pilot hole is a good way to verify the thickness of the drywall (1/2" is typical - but there are sometimes 2 layers = 1"). The other thing you might run into, which is a good thing to find is a stud. In a recent building, the studs may turn out to be metal rather than traditional wood. Either way, studs are great for mounting towel bars, and anything else. The one catch is that a pilot hole over a metal stud may not be immediately distinguishable from a pilot hole over a metal plate that is protecting wiring.
In a Stud
If either end of the towel bar lines up with a stud, then use long screws - typically around 1" longer than drywall + mounting hardware - to go directly into the stud. No anchors needed!
For wood studs, use cabinet screws. Do not use drywall screws - they are designed to attach the drywall to the studs and not for attaching over things on top of the drywall - they are handy in a pinch for all kinds of temporary and/or low-strength applications, but not for long-lasting heavy-duty applications.
For metal studs, drill larger holes and use toggle bolts. While you can use toggle bolts as anchors in drywall without studs, with metal studs you don't have to worry about the drywall crumbling under pressure - done right they will last forever even if people use the towel bar as a grab bar.
Into a Hollow Wall
Unfortunately, most of the time at least one end of the towel bar will end up over a hollow wall cavity. There are a variety of anchors used for this - most people swear by some and swear at others. There are plenty of plastic expanding anchors, as well as toggle bolts and other gadgets. Check the rating and get stronger than you think you need. A towel bar, unlike a mirror or many other things, will be used at least occasionally as a grab bar due to the nature of bathrooms - wet feet, slippery floors, etc.
All that being said, good quality anchors are fine for a regular towel bar if you can't get into the studs.
A real grab bar?
If you actually need a true grab bar - and there are plenty of towel bars designed to do double-duty as a grab bar - then you really want to get into studs on both ends or add extra backing (either cut into the wall, add wood, patch over and screw into it like studs; or a painted/stained wood piece placed over the drywall, screwed into studs and towel bar on top of that). But based on the picture, it looks like the towel bar will be next to the sink and not next to the tub/shower, so an "ordinary" installation should be sufficient.


If carpet has been dry for years is moisture level OK on slab? Should I be concerned about moisture with installing an Engineered Wood flooring over a concrete slab (on-grade)? We have been living in the house for 10+ years with carpet flooring and I don’t recall the carpet ever being moist (except for spills of course). However the room does feel a bit humid on a rainy Summer day. Should I be concerned about moisture affecting my installation?

This is the product I am considering installing: SolidPlus® engineered Flooring by Somerset Floors

The difference is that carpet breathes, and padding doesn't (as much), so you wouldn't have noticed moisture beneath the padding.

One good test is to securely tape down a sheet of plastic, say two feet square, and leave it for a few days. See how much vapor accumulates under it.


How can I modify a 4 wire thermostat to a new thermostat requiring c wire? I attempted to replace my thermostat with a fancy new Trane z-wave enabled model.  To my dismay my home was only wired with a 4 wire setup with no 5 hidden in the bundle.   I followed Insx on the web and moved the g (fan wire) on the furnace to the c terminal.  Then I put a jumper wire to connect the g and y terminal at the furnace board.  I wired the thermostat as shown in the Trane manual while assuming the new C wire in its appropriate position and leaving the fan terminal empty. The Trane unit is internally jumpered between Rc and Rh.

The thermostat powers up fine but as soon as I go to do a heating call, or a cooling call it blows the 3A fuse on the furnace board.  I also tried wiring the R wire to Rh on the thermostat but the same result.  I have a York TG9S series gas furnace and no other hvac system (no a/c).  A Pro1 T725 was used as the previously thermostat even though it's really for a heat pump.  I've included pictures of before and after wiring as well as furnace schematics.

Click for full size image

You moved the Green to C on one end but the picture with the transformer in the top left shows Green still on G there it should be on C.

The picture below you would pull the green wire off of Green at both the stat and furnace and move it to C/Common, then  you jumper Yellow to Green at the furnace.


How to get electrical from the side of a beam into a wall under it without crown moulding? I'm partially finishing an unfinished basement, and part of that involves installing a wall. I put the wall in the 'natural' place right under the central beam supporting the middle of the house, around two of the iron posts holding it up. I'm trying to get electrical down from the side of the beam into the wall, without needing to notch the drywall. Can post pictures if needed.
The beam consists of 3 2x8s nailed together at an unknown interval, and the wall is a 'staggered stud' construction with 2x4 studs (wall is 6" wide to match the beam)
I was able to get some electrical run using an existing notch in the beam from the old sink drain (which was upgraded/rerouted decades ago to add a second toilet) but I'm having trouble figuring out if the 2020 NEC permits a 'partial' notch in one board of a beam for running (possibly armored) electrical? (US-MA uses 2020 NEC with no relevant amendments AFAIK)
There's an existing question similar to this, but it only addresses modern steel I beams and engineered lumber, not old-fashioned "multiple 2x8s nailed together"

It sounds like you're suggesting drilling the beam clear through from top to bottom, or notching the side of one of the outer 2x8s from top to bottom.  Neither of these are allowed under modern building codes and they significantly compromise the capacity of the beam.  It's like subtracting one of those 2x8s from the beam.
With that said, I previously owned a house where water supply pipes had been inserted top-to-bottom through a structural beam, and the house had not fallen down 30+ years after it'd been done.  Thank goodness for safety factors!
Instead, build a chase
If I were you, I would build a small chase to bring the wiring from the joist cavity into the wall.


How do I hack cheap garden/solar lights to make a remote solar panel array? I've got a shaded area leading up to my front door that I want to illuminate with solar lights, but alas, it's so shaded I can't seem to generate enough juice to charge the batteries. I know that companies sell lights with a remote solar panel, but it's a bit too pricey for me. I was thinking of building my own remote panel in the following way:

Buy a couple throwaway lights and remove their solar panels.
Connect the positives together and the negatives together and attach them to a piece of plastic to make my panel. Place the DIY solar panel in a non-shaded area.
Place additional lights where I want them in the walkway.
Run wire from the remote solar panel array to the first battery terminals of the  lights in the walkway.
Run wire from the first light battery terminal to the second, and continue until all panels are wired.

Am I missing anything? Is there a piece of equipment I'm overlooking?

What happens when a charge maxes out? Suppose battery #1 in the series maxes, is the energy then passed to battery #2? What happens when they all max out?

What sort of wire do I buy?

I'm a noob when it comes to electronics.

Am I missing anything? Is there a piece of equipment I'm overlooking?

Yes. Large solar panels can be bought individually rather than cobbled together from smaller ones. These are designed to feed from the panel as-built rather than having to be modified. Example here.

So what you need to do is find a low voltage garden light system (perhaps one powered by the mains as suggested by @longneck) then replacing its mains voltage converter with a feed from a battery pack charged by the panel. The battery packs could be central or at each light.


Gluing Table Aprons to Plywood Table Top I'm building a tall, large standing desk and removable legs are required for this to fit through doors.  I'm using pocket screws to attach the aprons (hardwood maple) the table top (birch veneer hardwood plywood).  Screws are 6" apart

Would adding glue between the aprons and tabletop be beneficial for structure?  Or would the glue not have a benefit because of the thin birch veneer that it's being glued to?  Or would glue cause problems if the wood warps (I live in dry, Colorado climate and warping may not be an issue).

Glue is rarely a bad thing to add to a (permanent) joint. Pocket hole screws are plenty strong on their own for most typical applications, but adding glue only makes the joint stronger. Plywood is very strong and very stable (two big reasons for using it), so there's no concern related to that.

One potential problem that may develop as a result of using glue is getting the joint to line up nicely, especially while screwing in the pocket screws. Glue acts as a lubricant here, allowing the two pieces to slide around quite a bit during clamping. If the two pieces are not clamped very securely, they will move when driving in the screws. If you can come up with some kind of registration / alignment system it will make the whole process much easier. Use biscuits, dominoes, rabbets (UK: rebates) (even a 1/16" deep rabbet would aid alignment), whatever to keep the apron aligned on the tabletop.


Can I use old bits for a hand-powered drill in a power drill? I have some drill bits that as far as I know have only been used in a hand-powered drill. They are at least 15 years old, maximum 40 years.

Can I use them in an electric/power drill? If the answer is "it depends", is there some way to tell? And if I get it wrong and something bad happens, will that bad thing be disastrous, or merely cause damage to the bit? (i.e. if the answer is that the bit might shatter and blow up the drill and I'm shrapneled with little pieces of metal, I won't try it...)

If this seems like an stupid question - my idea is that the metal might not be hard enough or something to stand up to the greater strain/pressure/speed/??, but I don't know if that is a thing.

The photo is of the ones I have at my house at the moment - there are more at my Mum's (they were Dad's) but they are the same general type.

If they are HSS quality bits they would still be usable. Try by first drilling into wood. Then use a drop of oil and try on an aluminum block.

Old bits are of great help with wood and plastics. Rarely would they break up and damage anything as long as you take care. Wear safety goggles.

By the way...as they cost a bomb in India, I regrind broken bits and temper them again for general workshop use. With care the bits in the picture would last you a lifetime. I still use an ancient HSS 1/8 that has stood by me over the last 30 years! Hope this helps....


Is an orbit sander preferable over a belt sander for tabletops? Since I will be using a sander rather infrequently, I figured I'd save myself collecting more hardware by buying just a (portable) belt sander and using it for both serious sanding (areas on floors that are unreachable with a machine) and light-weight sanding (wood tabletops).

But for tables, I'm having a hard time getting a smooth finish, using 180-grit paper. Maybe 220-grit will make a big difference, but I doubt it.

Does either an orbit sander or a mouse sander give you more control when sanding a wood tabletop, to get a smoother finish? (I've applied linseed oil to seal, and am now applying polyurethane to finish).

Asked differently, is a belt sander just too much (unmanageable, takes too much too quickly, not random but leaves linear streaks, ..) to be used for finishing tabletops?

Because of the different motions, a belt sander could cause a deeper "line" where the edge of the belt hits the wood, since you can only go back and forth with it, certainly not optimal. With an orbital sander you would be moving it very quickly, in different directions and because of the way the pad moves as well, you would not be "eating" into the wood as quickly or in a line, as mentioned before, this is certainly the way to go.


Lighting to simulate skylights I was in a friend's home, and admired their skylight.  They have one of those tubes that goes through the roof to bring natural light inside.  The ceiling had a diffused circular lens to help disperse and diffuse the light.

I can't add skylights right now, but what type of fixture and bulb would give a similar effect?  Prefer something that can be left on for long periods of time that doesn't use much energy or generate much heat.

Skylights are pleasing because they fill the room with light which is reflected and diffused off all the surfaces in the room, whereas a typical ceiling lamp is somewhat unidirectional and lights the ceiling almost as much (or possibly more) than the room itself.

Uplighting from multiple sources is definitely a good solution for recreating the skylight effect. These could be floor mounted, or sconces hung on or cut into the ball. Uplighting on top of cabinets will cast light on the ceiling. You could also couple the uplighting with track-mounted wall wash bulbs.

Halogen lighting was often used for this sort of lighting but LEDs are becoming a better alternative as the prices drop. Good quality LED lighting strips and bulbs are much more low-heat and energy efficient than any halogen. In addition, most LEDs will last at least 10 years without replacement so they can be installed in areas that are hard to access. Traditionally, people consider the traditional yellow tungsten-bulb colors to be most comfortable, which is around 3000K (warm white), but this is not what you want to simulate sunlight. Actual sunlight is around 5000K and above and more of a bluish color (cool white). You will need LEDs around that color temp, or can be programmed to that. Approx 4000K can be a nice compromise. Ultimately everything depends on the existing color of the walls in the room, and the aesthetic you're going for.

As a note, the new lighting temp will probably be jarring at first as it's much colder than "normal" warm tungsten screw-in light bulbs. I would consider the LED uplighting as an accent to your existing lighting, so you can turn it off or dim the LED system so it won't be overpowering in the evening. Also, there are some LED systems now that are color-programmable and even controlled by a mobile app, so you can pick the white color temperature that appeals the most to you, or have it cycle though different color temps throughout the day, light real sunlight.

Experiment with some simple uplighting cans on the floor and in some uplighting and work from there... if you are thinking of spending "real" money, ask an interior designer or decorator for advice.

Good luck!


New Backerboard in shower doesnt line up with old cement liner I'm replacing a shower in our new home, because the old tile had totally cracked and rotted through. I pulled the old drywall out and am planning to replace it with backerboard. The floor is tile over cement pad, and I didn't pull the cement out (wood looked good both from in the wall and below). My plan was just to lay another layer of tile over the existing floor. For the walls we're just going to lay in big Formica panels. The shower is a tiny phone booth.

Here's the issue-- the top vertical edge of the cement pad is really uneven, and setting the backerboard on top of it leaves big gaps in some places. In a couple of spots, the raised tile will go above the level of the cement, so there will be a gap between the tile and the frame. Do I worry about those gaps? With the big panels of formica, there's plenty to anchor to. The plastic membrane is mostly intact, and I can patch the couple of rips that are exposed. If I am worried about those gaps, can I fill them in with something easily?

Thanks!

Pic. 1: Cement pad on right extends 1 to 2 inches above surface of tile. Pad on left is below level of tile, creating gap between tile and wall.

Pic. 2: Shows 3-inch section where cement pad has deteriorated and is now below level of tile.

My best recommendation is to rip out the existing shower floor and the old cement liner and start anew. Then you can rebuild this small "phone booth" sized space to properly work with the new sides and where they join the base. It may be that the use of a cement liner can be completely replaced with a newer technology. After all, if parts of the existing cement liner have basically degraded back to literal sand how sure can you be that that will not continue and have to be replaced in a few more years anyway.


How can I remove the side glass pane from a patio sliding glass door? I just bought a pet door insert for a sliding glass door.

I'm assuming that it must be installed against the wall, but I cannot figure out how to remove the side panel of the sliding glass door.

The green arrow points to the glass pane I want to remove so I can put the Pet door against the frame where the red arrow is pointing and then put the green arrow pane back against it.

EDIT Adding requested images

Can it be done? Or is the whole thing one piece?

I'm guessing, but here's my suspicion based on the pics posted.  I may delete this answer after you post an updated close up pic.

Where your red arrow points - the white and black strip - I suspect that's the stop strip.  It goes all the way around the window panel and appears to lock it in place.  I suspect there's one on the outside as well.

To remove the glass, you're probably going to need to carefully remove this strip from the outside of the door frame.  Then the window pane itself should lift up and out from the bottom.

To re-secure your new pet door will include re-installing the stop strip.


Tools for painting a wall I had a dry wall job done and I need to paint the wall. A touch up might work as well but I bet i will not end up with a finished result.

Can you list the set of tools needed for doing the painting efficiently?

Given the texture of the wall, I'd try with just a 2-3 inch brush, one coat of primer, then two coat of the same exact paint as the rest of the wall. Ideally some leftover from the original painting.

Needless to say, let dry between coats and clean/dry your brush thoroughly.
Edit: For cleaning the brush, run water over it until the water runs completely clear, then run some more water. Personally, I use a regular fork to comb the brush as I rinse.

You'll remove the hanger while you paint, right?


Is it safe to plug christmas lights into a power strip or surge protector that's connected to an extension cord? I want to plug my christmas lights into a power strip or surge protector that is itself plugged into an extension cord. The extension cord is plugged into the side of my house.
Is this safe?

First off, power strips are not supposed to be plugged into extension cords. Any extension cords you use for Christmas lights must/should be rated for outdoor use. Any outdoor outlets you use have to be GFCI protected outlets. So, get an outdoor power strip with a long cord similar to the one shown below. Plug it into a GFCI protected outlet and stake it into the ground. From there, you can run outdoor rated extension cords to various locations. Most light strings are not three wire but it's OK to plug them into a three prong extension cord. I usually tape the plug to prevent moisture from getting in and tripping the GFCI.


transitioning from 16" diameter duct to rectangular return for A/C Is there such a thing as a prefab box made of sheet-metal which is designed to fit between standard floor joists set at 16" o.c., with a round port, so that it can transition to 16" round duct up in the attic?

Search for "duct boot", or "transition".


DC Landscape Lighting Transformer I'm planning an installation of twelve 12VDC deck post cap lights, each drawing 1.6 watts.  The manufacturer says the lights must be driven by a DC supply.  They offer a system that uses a 50 watt supply with proprietary patch cords and splitters to connect the lights.  I prefer to use less expensive standard 12/2 wire and a standard low voltage landscape transformer.  What I'm finding is that most "standard low voltage transformers" output AC, not DC.  Those that do output 12VDC have no built-in timers, dimmers or photocell functions.  They're just power transformers that are on 24/7.  What I want to do is install the power supply in the basement and turn on the lights at dust and turn them off 6 or 8 hours later.  Dusk-to-dawn would be a reasonable alternative.  My question is, what would a professional lighting installer use?  I suppose one could use an external timer and photocell or convert 12VAC to 12VDC after the transformer but surely there's a proper power supply for 12V DC landscape lights.

I'm not sure why you're going with DC.  I've put in many systems with 12 volt AC transformers with built in timers and or photo cells. The lights I've used are all LED or incandescent and they run on AC. I've got 15 fixtures in my backyard using LED bulbs hooked up to a 12 volt AC transformer. The bulbs will take AC or DC so I went with the AC. Check with some different manufacturers or do some checking at your home stores or lighting stores. They have plenty of fixtures, bulbs, etc that run on AC.


A bass tone is coming out of the toilet There is an eerie bass sound coming from our flush toilet. It sounds like this.

Usually it starts when we sit on the toilet or push it, but sometimes it starts even when we are away. Each time it starts, it lasts for several seconds, then halts.

Other than this, the toilet works fine - there is no apparent water-dripping.

What should we do? Do we have to replace the entire toilet? The entire water tank? Or just some part of it?

Sometimes this is a resonant refill valve -- pushing the toilet, or a minor leak through the flush valve, shifts the water level just enough to open the valve a hair, and then it bounces between open and closed a few times until the water level comes up enough to close it more reliably. Fiddling with the water level may help, but replacing the refill mechanism is likely to help more.

(And since this is telling you that the flap valve is leaking a bit, you might want to consider replacing that too while you're at it.)


Suggestion for daylight high lumen bin-pin LED bulb Here are some photos of the fixture.

I’ve been searching around for a GU24/bi-pin base daylight LED with more 1400 lumens.

Amazon and HomeDepot didn’t help much. I found quite a few bi-pin ones but none of them day light with more than 1100 lumens.

Can some help point me in the right direction?

Most LED bulbs recommend against installing in a closed fixture like that because of concerns about heat building shorting the lamp life.

Another approach you could take is just to replace the entire fixture with an LED one. E.g. This LED ceiling fixture comes in 1400 and 1700 lumen varieties. You'll probably get much better light dispersion out of a fixture like that anyway because the individual diodes are all pointing in the right direction instead of a standard bulb where half of the light is shining towards the ceiling.


Furniture needs to be attached to the wall, but my tenancy agreement doesn't allow it I've just rented an unfurnished apartment. Obviously I need some furniture. However, wherever I look (IKEA and similar websites), the instructions for any furniture I look at say that it has to be fixed to the wall, to prevent it from falling over.

My tenancy agreement (and all tenancy agreements, as far as I know) doesn't allow me to make holes in the walls, for understandable reasons.

If I go ahead and buy furniture but don't fix it to the wall, how big is the danger of it falling over? Or, is there furniture that doesn't need to be attached to the wall?
There are no children or pets and earthquakes are almost unheard of.

I imagine that everyone who's ever rented a house or apartment has had to deal with this but surprisingly I can't find anything on the subject.

As a landlord I would say it's not the putting holes in the walls that I don't like, it's the leaving holes I have a problem with. As long as it's a normal sheet rock and paint wall, not paneling, finished woodworking, or masonry, that's a different story. A few holes for a noble cause (keeping your bookshelf from crushing a toddler for example) is not an evict-able offense, unless your landlord is out of his/her mind, so the worst thing that can happen is getting dinged on your damage deposit when you move out. And if you properly patch and paint your holes that won't be an issue either. I'd still ask first though just to be safe, we landlord's hate the old "ask for forgiveness instead of permission" trick:)


Can I Effectively Jump my Furnace Wiring for A Long Time Safely So I live in an rental with a forced air furnace. The thermostat that controls it is an old honey well that uses ancient analog components. It works well during the winter for heating, but unfortunately I realized with summer coming on it has no option for a fan mode. Pulling the thermostat off the wall I found that the wiring only has the red live wire and white heat wire running to the furnace.

After googling around I figured out that basically the thermostat is a fairly dumb component that just connects the red 24v to different input wires to active different heating/cooling mechanisms. Following this logic then I figured I could go to the furnace and rewire the connections to furnace board such that the white wire input instead connected to the fan terminal. I did all this and then replaced the thermostat to a rocker switch so I could easily flip it on and off. So far the fan is humming along nicely and things are cooling off.

My question is this, since I cannot solve the problem correctly by running more lines and getting a updated thermostat (I figure my landlord wouldn't like me doing impromptu wiring) is this a safe long term solution?

Can this be jumped safely, YES. Many furnace controls have the fan only option but as you found the wires did not extend to the thermostat. If you were able to use the 24v to pull in the fan relay and not activate the gas valve what you have done would not be a problem with normal low voltage thermostat wiring and would be hard to be unsafe at 24v.

Prior to installing any wiring I would get permission from the land lord.
 I have installed toggle switches on furnaces in the past for this same reason, to have a fan option, I did not consider pulling new 5/7 conductor wire to the thermostat as that would have doubled the cost of the job. The furnace was conveniently located, so it was no big deal to just flip the switch.


What fixture would give the best light in this high-ceiling room? My high-ceiling living room has only 3 plug-in lamps, but there are two live, switched electrical boxes on the wall, a few feet apart, just above top of the bookcase in the photo below.
The easiest place to put fixed light fixtures is on the wall immediately over the bookcase.
What type of light fixture might provide the best light for the room, if put on the wall above the bookcase?  (By best, I mean general light throughout the room.)

Non-trivial solution, but I would look at running a wire up the wall to the ceiling and over to the beam and either hang a chandelier from the middle of the beam, or install track lighting on the beam. You can use moulding along the beam to cover up a wire there so nobody will notice it (I did that for my living room which is now my dining room). If you do it right, you will only need to cut & patch two small sections of the wall/ceiling - one directly above the existing box and one next to the beam.


Reservoir tank continues to slowly fill and won't stop Sometime recently my toilet reservoir tank would not stop filling. It fill the tank to its normal capacity until the float is raised. Once that is done it continues to fill really slow. You probably wouldn't notice it unless it was really quiet and then you could hear the flow.

If left alone it would eventually reach the overflow. So it is no a case of the float level being above the overflow. If I was to pull the float up as high as it comfortably goes the flow persists.

The toilet is working normally. During this slow flow the water is not filling in the bowl so this issue should be limited to the resevoir. There are no leaks outside of the tank that I can find so I think the issue is with the ballcock?

Most modern fill valves you can turn off the water and remove the cap. Twist the upper valve part and it will unlock showing the seal and mechanism.  Place cup over valve tub slowly turn water to toilet on and run 3 seconds and turn off.  Reassemble valve by aliging tabs and twisting back on its only a 15 or 20 degree twist so be gentle. Turn water on and test.  If you live in a hard water or silty area or just have old galvanized pipes flakes get caught in there all the time.  I was buying new valves often till I figured this out.  Half the time a valve is leaking it's usually this I have found and you can't imagine the clients that are shocked to just get billed a minimum service call that took under 3 minutes and most of the time if they are close or in my current route of the day I usually don't even charge them nothing more than a bottle of water or a cup of coffee ☺


How do I bend a wooden edging for a tile counter top? I'm about to build a tile counter top (or bench top as we call it here) for a new kitchen.  I'm going to be using large porcelain floor tiles on top and thought I'd finish the edges with a nice native timber.

The top I'm working on is the breakfast bar where one end sticks out a little way.  I thought perhaps I could lightly curve it to give it a more natural feel and take away the harsh lines.

However, the timber I have in mind for the edging is some old and dry wood I have lying around called Rimu.  Is it even possible to curve this timber or would I need a new timber that is perhaps softer?

I've heard that people can use steam or a series of cuts.  I don't have access to a steam box and cutting it the traditional way with lots of fine cuts only leaves one edge nice not the top and the side.  Is there perhaps another method I could use in my home workshop?

Unless the wood is rotted or extremely old I doubt its age will have an effect on shaping. Commercial lumber is kiln-dried to a relatively low humidity anyway.

I can think of a couple of options for bending the wood:

Depending on how thin the edging is and how much it's going to curve, you may just be able to bend it by hand as you attach it. If you're talking just a gentle arc along the counter edge I think this would work, but if you want a tight turn at the corner than definitely not. Of course there is a risk of breaking it, so I would only try this if you have a spare piece or don't mind buying another.
Making a homemade steam box is easier than you might think, especially if you're a little handy and only want to bend a few pieces. You just need a closed container that's long enough to hold the item (a PVC pipe, or metal dryer vent, or some scrap plywood assembled in a box), and an electric kettle as the source of the steam. Cut a hole in the side of your box and connect it somehow to the spout or top of your electric kettle. E.g. a piece of garden hose, some tubing, more pipe, etc. Get the whole thing sealed up as best you can with duct tape / caulking. Then just fill up the kettle with water and turn it on! Ideally you would stick a meat thermometer in there so you can tell when the wood reaches an appropriate temperature. Any insulation you can wrap around the outside of the box will make the steaming process faster.
If the piece you want to bend is small, you can actually just stick it in the microwave to soften it up.


Seized "ballofix" ball valve can't shut off water properly I have a dripping shower/bath mixer tap (read "running hot water and rapidly getting worse") which I need to fix. I have found the water switch off valves for the apartment, but I cannot close them fully - the apartment is ~45 years old and the whole building is due to have the pipe system changed in the fall so it's probably quite an old valve. There is quite a lot of calcium deposit around the taps so hard water may be a factor.

Here is the valve in the open state:

Here is the valve, as far as I can get it:

How can I get it to close fully? What should (and shouldn't) I do? I'm concerned about applying too much force such that the handle or valve gets damaged and I'd be left stuck without water - is this a risk, and how can I best apply enough force to close the valve while minimising the risk of damage? E.g. is there a way to grip the handle properly? Should I also grip the pipes around to ensure they aren't put under force?

The black tap handle is actually removable, it just pulls of, and reveals that it is just a glorified hex-key. Could I just use a longer hex key to provide better leverage or is there a problem in applying too much force?

I've seen also suggestions of the following too, are they good or bad ideas?

tap gently with a hammer as I turn the tap
use spray oil (e.g. WD40) and let that soak in

How can I get it to close fully?

The plastic handle is expendable. It will break long before the valve spindle. This is good. I would use an indelible pen (sharpie) to mark the maximum angle it turns, then wiggle it back and forth vigorously a few hundred times and see if it is improving. If so - continue, if not - stop.

  The black tap handle is actually removable, it just pulls of, and reveals that it is just a glorified hex-key. Could I just use a longer hex key to provide better leverage

I would try that. but I wouldn't extend the leverage very far.

  or is there a problem in applying too much force?

Most ball valves seem to be pretty robust but I'm sure you could destroy one (or the surrounding pipework) with a 6-foot lever.

  Should I also grip the pipes around to ensure they aren't put under force?

Yes. I would try to do that when you start to apply greater forces than normal. Maybe it is possible to firmly clamp the valve body to a strong length of wood or steel and hold that when applying leverage to the valve handle (or hex key)

  tap gently with a hammer as I turn the tap

Worth trying even if there is a 1:100 chance of having any effect.

  use spray oil (e.g. WD40) and let that soak in

I can't imagine that would help, but again, it is a cheap and easy option to try, and less likely to cause damage than the other ideas you listed. So if you have lots of time, this is one to try first.

If all fails, I would rent or buy a pipe-freezer and just replace the valve. You need a plan B immediately ready to hand in case this goes badly wrong. My plan B would be to turn off the water to the building using the valve in the street but that option might not be available to you.


Subpanel feeder cable type to code? Pardon my uneducated question, new to the codes...in short I want to add a subpanel, along an existing one. Here is the setup:

There is a 200A service with a main service breaker and branch-breakers panel on the outside of the house. It is located on the garage external wall.
A single 100A subpanel is feed across the garage by a multi-conductor cable (looks like SE cable AWG-2 3+1 AL). It's protected via a 100A breaker in the main panel.
There is no main breaker in the subpanel, just branch brakers.
The feeder cable runs across the garage ceiling to the subpanel through a drywalled "duct" ~3ftx1ft on the ceiling of the garage (there are other cables and AC air ducts there). About 35ft run.

I want to add a second 100A sub panel, in exactly the same location, side by side w/ the first one.

What cable/wiring type can I use to feed it?
Do I need a main breaker in the subpanel if I have a breaker in the main panel? It's all one "building".
I would have a back entry to the main panel in a 2x4 wall - how to make the "turn"? (the existing feeder cable is just bent and enters via 1" adaptor).
I have a 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 Gray Stranded AL SER cable I could use (prob overkill for 100A but I have it). Is it up to code to run it along existing feeder via this walled ceiling "duct"? On a 100A breaker?

Thanks,
Michal

Garages are just the kind of place where you go through panel spaces like, as ThreePhaseEel says, a teenager through Mountain Dew.  240V power tool, boom, 2 spaces. EVSE, boom, 2 spaces. Double-stuff breakers aren't even an option because everything needs GFCI and/or AFCI (as of NEC 2020).  I presume you are once bitten twice shy, and are eyeing a nice 30-space panel so you'll never run out of spaces again.

We're all for saving money. But panels are the worst place to chintz out.

Cable/wiring -- you can use NM-B cable, UF-B cable (under NM-B rules), individual conductors in conduit (cable in conduit is legal if your conduit is oversize enough, but usually so hard to pull that you end up calling an electrician).  You cannot use USE cable, but most USE is multi-listed as other types that are legal indoors, so you're all set.

Do you need a main breaker in the sub if the main panel has a breaker? Indoors.  Well first, the breaker in the main panel is mandatory to protect the cable run.  But yes, since you're in the same building, no main disconnect is required at the sub.  (in outbuildings, you don't need a main breaker, but you do need a main disconnect, and that's the cheapest way to do that).

Can I use 1/0 Al for 100A? Yeah, you can use it for 125A actually.  The only gotcha with 125A fusing is that most panels have 125A ratings on their bus stabs, which includes both this space, and the space across from it.  So if you have a 100A across from a 15-15 duplex, that's 130A and that's too much.  A 100A can only be across from 25A breakers max.  A 125A can be across from nothing, so you need empty spaces there.

What you call 2 breakers is actually a 2-pole breaker with handle ties.  It occupies 2 spaces in 2 rows.  So you are concerned with the loads on each row.

Do they care how many subs I have? Nope.  They care about the ampacity of the loads you have provisioned into each subpanel, as determined by relevant formulas.  They also care about the ampacity of all the provisioned loads being served by the main panel.  But I trust you won't be exceeding that.


LG LSC27910sb refrigerator freezer door water line broken Water was leaking, found the line that runs through the freezer door to the dispenser was split.

I have read the service manual ( http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/138598-2.pdf ) and cannot find instructions to replace this line - or any part number. Any advice would be appreciated.

I see what you mean, I couldn't find anything either. That black collar looks like a push-in connection. See if you can get LG on the phone or a Chat on their website to walk you through extracting it first.

Plan "A" would be to remove the hose after the split & cut a new end at or before the split to just shove it in & be good as new. It's likely very similar to a Sharkbite connection. Where you may have to insert a thin tiny flathead screwdriver (or 2) or a plastic or metal sleeve into that collar about an inch to push up the locking rings for the hose to actually just fall out.


Are metal horseshoe nails an acceptable method of securing electrical cables? On the framing our electrician used plastic staples with two nails to keep the wire from moving around, but I notice under the house he used metal horseshoe nails. It seems that, if they were tacked up tightly, the metal could damage the wire.

Is this okay?

Metal staples have been around a long time, and haven't caused enough problems to be banned. So for as long as they're an "approved" method of securing cables, there is no problem using them.

Most of the inspectors in my area dislike them, since from time to time they're tacked down too tight by installers. If installed incorrectly they can indeed damage the cable, but in my experience this seems to be rare.


Ceiling fan and light work with pull chain only, not light switch My ceiling fan and light will only work with the chain and not the switch. When I tested the wires with the switch off one still came back hot. My house is a very old house. A picture is posted, as I’m so lost on what to do. Please help!!!
[![enter image description here][2]][2]
[2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/XeA3U.jpg![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UxmFn.jpg)

It looks like you have a switch loop so you need to take your always hot black wire and connect it to the white wire with the black markings (can you read the markings). Put some black tape on that white wire to show it's always hot. Hook your fan up to the remaining two wires. Put some black tape on the white wire at the switch box too. Leave the ground from the fan unhooked since you don't have  ground there.
Now for the bad news. I doubt that that ceiling box it rated for a ceiling fan and it needs to be changed out. While the box could be firmly mounted to the joists, the threads and screws you use to attach the fan to the box are not strong enough. If you have attic access, changing out the box won't be too bad but if you don't, You might have to remove some of the ceiling to replace the box.


Trying to wire switch outlet combo to existing two outlet. But the outlets each have 3 wires I have 2 outlets, I want to replace with switch outlet combo (outlet always hot).

But looking online, I keep seeing everything has only one white neutral, but in my case, both outlets have a black hot and white neutral wire along with the grounds twisted together.  In other words, each outlet has its own romex cable with 3 wires.

Am I not able to replace this outlet with a switch combo because it has 2 neutrals?

This is confusing me.  Thanks.

Let's take a look at what we have here

You have 2 cables, and each one has (presumably) hot, neutral and ground. It is normal for all grounds simply to be all tied to each other;

The old device is definitely a GFCI or AFCI, no doubt of it.

So what you're viewing as "each socket powered by a separate cable" is actually the GFCI device being what it is.  It has one hot/neutral pair (called "LINE") that inputs power from the supply, and from there, power goes through the GFCI electronics. The output of the GFCI electronics provides a zone of protection, and that goes to the other hot-neutral pair (called "LOAD") to be carried onward to other outlets.  It also protects the sockets on GFCI receptacles (not every GFCI device is a receptacle).

So each cable does not power each socket at all. The positions are sheer coincidence. Both sockets are connected together along with the LOAD wires, and all together are on the protected side of the GFCI.

Any socket-type outlet in the protected zone requires a "GFCI Protected" sticker.

And this actually caused you to waste a lot of money.

GFCI Roundup

It sounds like you have way more GFCIs than you have circuits. That will cause you problems when a GFCI trips for cause ,because all the upstream GFCIs will also trip, and they are very picky about reset sequence.

See this answer for how to untangle that.

Now that you have a pile of GFCIs, identify every circuit in your house that doesn't have any GFCIs at all, and spread the love by finding the first receptacle in the chain. However do not put GFCI protection on safety devices such as refrigerators, radon pumps, fire alarms, etc. where a nuisance trip will poison or kill people.

Grandfathering: you can't downgrade

ALL kitchen receptacles are required to be GFCI.  Even if this outlet was grandfathered, you can't downgrade: you can't remove protection you already do have. This means 2 things:

This receptacle must remain GFCI
The downline circuit must be protected by GFCI

Now as the other answer describes, the other receps could be protected merely by siting a GFCI at the next recep. However, this recep still needs protection.

Fortunately, a dual GFCI+receptacle+switch is indeed an item that is sold.  It is exactly what you have there (the new one) but with GFCI protection on the receptacle.   The wiring to the screws is the same as the old GFCI receptacle.  The switch is not on any screws; it is handled as two pigtail wires which you can do with as you please. Noting that hardwired lighting does not need GFCI protection.

That 20A-keyed socket+switch is an expensive beast, having just bought one myself. Take it back.  You may find the incremental cost to a GFCI version of that isn't much more than what you are returning.


Any code problem putting single phase 240 and three phase 240 in same outlet box I am running both single phase 240 and three phase 240 in my shop. I discovered that each of the locking, industrial round plugs for these (L14-30R and L15-30R) can fit in one double gang box. Is there any code problem with doubling them up? The single phase 240 comes from the breaker, and the three phase 240 comes from a three phase converter fed from the same panel.

Yeah, the plugs may not physically clear when installed next to each other at 1-gang spacing.  I would recommend using 2 separate boxes for that reason.

That said, you can put both voltages in the same junction box, but you must clearly mark them to distinguish them.


Kenmore washer spin cycle drains but doesn't rotate My Kenmore washer is Kenmore Elite 110.22952102 (Top Load washer). In the perm press cycle at the end the clothes are wet. Below is my troubleshooting observation on the unit, based on it, could you please point me to the part that needs the repair and how to go about repairing it.

During the washer cycle, the agitator rotates and washes the cloth properly.
The end cycle (Spin cycle), agitator doesn't rotate and also the tub doesn't spin either. However at the end of the spin cycle all the water is drained.

Please assist me.

I fix my own stuff, but don't know about your washer. However, a quick search revealed this to be a common problem & I ran across an old blog that matched your symptoms perfectly. Kenmore washer won't spin out all water from clothes.

Although, the parts involved in resolving the multiple problems, appear to total more than $300 for the parts alone. You can call a local Appliance Repairer for their estimate for the typical course of action for this common problem. But, based on just parts cost I'd suggest getting a new washer with a new warranty.


Are these walls holding up my roof? Hello I have a room that we have to insulate.  To do it properly, I am thinking of tearing off the drywall.  Then the thought hit me that since I'm going to be redrywalling the room, can I also take out the two walls in red?  Are they holding up my roof or am I ok to take one or both out?

The room is 20' x 12', the 20' is the cross section below.

More Dimensions

Thanks.

Yes......................................................

Let me elaborate... FOR SURE!

Given the picture is accurate and the (large) kneewall hits the joists the kneewall is functionally taking some of the load from the top roofing members and relocating that load to the floor below.  You could replace the kneewall with a header of adequate size.  But given you keep the same joists framing below you would then have to pick the load of the header at the 2-3 spots that it runs to the first floor and then carry the load to the ground.

We are actually building a large 1000 sq/ft garage right now with the exact same layout of the picture below - I could provide some pics this weekend.  We talked to the architect about moving the second floor knee walls close to the edge but we are stuck at about 3.5 fee on each side - so making storage.

If it was a continuous peak to the edge and the kneewall was an actual kneewall (2-3 feet in height) then you may be able to move it.  But as the drawing stands and factoring the height, the space from outer walls, and that the joists are on them I am 99.9% sure they are load bearing unless there is a lot of metal involved.


splitting sun tunnel We have a nice sun tunnel in the kitchen soffited area that I would like to split off with a 90 t and add a 4' extension and an additional plate on a vertcial side of the soffit. I realize I am not going to get as much light as another unit but with the multiple roofing levels branching the existing tunnel sounds very attractive. Does anyone make a fitting or am I on my own to fabricate such a piece to attach my extension? Has anyone tried this?

The longer and less direct the run,the more light you will lose to absorption. And of course the split would mean you lose light in the original location.

If you really want to do this anyway, I'd consider real optics -- half-silvered mirror, focusing lenses, front-surface mirror at far end -- but cost would be high.

A second sun-tube/skylight seems a better bet. Or solar panel driving (a) full-spectrum bulb(s), though I agree that isn't the same thing.


What can I use to fix a gap between the light fixture and the ceiling? It's a very old house that the ceiling is made out of lath and plaster so it would be too much work to dig a hole to put in a large junction box for the wires. They won't fit in the base of the light fixture so it leaves a 1 inch gap.

What could I use to blend it in and make this work?

Wires and connections must be contained in an enclosure that is designed for that purpose. You might be able to find a decorative canopy extension ring at a good lighting and/or fan shop. it might look something like this:


Home climbing wall - does this design look structurally sound? I'm building a freestanding climbing wall that will sit in my garage. My design is two triangle frames built from 2x6 (green) with plywood panels (red) attached to the frame with 2x4 studs on the back (blue). The climbing wall is 40 degrees overhanging.

My main concern with the design is that all of the weight of the panels (~300lb) and climber (up to 200lb) goes onto the triangle frames, so they must be built absolutely solid. The small vertical panel at the bottom is not directly supporting any of the weight. Basically it is a giant table with an angled top which will have a dynamic weight hanging from it.
Questions:

Does this design look structurally sound, or are there any obvious things you would change?
The support legs will be mitered on the top, to attach to the angled frame. What is the best way to join the legs to the frame? Would pocket screws be sufficient?

the bottom wall needs a diagonal brace to its top from the bottom of the middle stud.
I'd put the top blue bearer as close to the top as practical, and use a double one there.
I'd put something across between the bottom plates to stop them from splaying, could just be another 2x6 and it could go in the bottom corner if it's well attached (glue and screw).
Attaching the tops of the verticals, end nail or screw from above is easiest.
2x4" for the joists seems undersized.
treating it as a floor it wants 2x6 but 7 of them would be enough.
The slope helps as the plywood will be able to carry half of the load.
so maybe the 2x4 is actually strong enough (at what I assume is intended to be 16" spacing in your drawing)
The top plates sloped green ones) should probably be double or you could notch the studs (vertical green ones) and install the top 2x6 with the narrow side up, that would simplift fixing at the top as you can just screw or nail straight through the side.
by notching you get the option to run the studs past the top plate to connect to the joists, this will help strengthen the sides against splaying apart.
you probably need more studs (vertical green bits) one for every two joists at-least.
This should go under the plywood. (so the plywood goes between the green and the blue)


How do I get the globe off this ceiling fan? I have tried pulling down on the globe thinking the metal clasps were holding the globe with tension. I've tried turning the globe but the whole base turns when I do that.
I'm not sure what brand it is so I am including a picture.
Thanks for any help!

Hold the glass bowl steady, and turn that metal piece at the bottom counter-clockwise. It's a fancy-looking nut, threaded onto a rod, holding the bowl up. (The clips are a bit strange, but are likely some sort of reinforcement for the bowl, and not the point of release.)


What is the proper way to connect 10awg wire to connectors rated for 14awg wire? I'm installing 120v to 12v transformers for low voltage lighting. Inside the transformer are output connectors for the low voltage wire, and those output connectors are rated for 14 awg wire. I'm using 10 awg wire. What is the proper, and code compliant way, to connect the 10 awg wire to the 14 awg output connectors?

The correct answer is to use approved wire twist on "wire nuts", or split bolt.  The package description will usually say how many and what sizes are allowed.

For example, the common red twist on "wire nut" will hold up to five #12s, officially.  There is a diagram and chart on the product which gives examples for mixing different wire sizes.


Is it a problem that my furnace filter is loose in its slot? When I bought my home, my furnace had a 16x20x1 nominal-size filter installed, and that's what I've been buying for replacements. This size doesn't fit the opening very well; there are large gaps around the sides. I measured the opening at 16"x20"x1-1/4".
I assume that the gaps are a problem, as they will allow unfiltered air into the furnace. What can I do to eliminate them?

Here's a picture of the filter's position when the furnace is on. I can still see the gaps around the edges:

This picture shows the entire slot -- note that there is no "door" or "panel" to close

Those gaps are normal and don't usually cause a problem. When the furnace is running the air pressure forces the filter against the downstream face of the slot, effectively sealing the opening.
Also, it's not critical that you have a complete seal. The air in your home isn't (or shouldn't be) particularly dusty. It's important that most of the dust gets caught before it passes through the fan and heat exchanger(s), but it's not required to have clinically clean air.
They're pretty much all this way. If the filter was to fit tightly enough to create a seal against both faces it would be extremely difficult to install them.  The alternative would be some sort of clamping mechanism like you'd see on a car engine, but it's just not that critical.


If I fit a water softener, will I run out of on-demand water via bath/shower-use? I'm interested in fitting a water-softener (specifically, the Twintec S3, which is a dual-cylinder unit developed in the UK, apparently) to my home.  My home is over 3 stories, with a bathroom on the middle floor and an en-suite on the top floor.

The bathroom has a toilet, basin, and (large - 180cm x 80 cm) bath.  The en-suite has a shower, basin, and toilet.

Hot water is provided by a combi-boiler; I think it's an Ikon 23t or something similar to that.

I don't know the specific flow-rates of things, but...  if the water softener has 2 cylinders of 17 litres each, how will I not run out of water during long showers or filling up the bath?  This specific water-softener is supposed to regenerate in 10 minutes, and is supposed to be able to regenerate while the other cylinder is supplying.  But...  If a tap runs at 5l/min, and a cylinder holds 17l, then one cylinder will be drained after ~3m20s.  Then the other one will be too, shortly thereafter.

Am I missing something?  Do I have the cylinder-size wrong, or the regeneration-time...?

As Evil said impossible to tell you from the info you have provided, but if you look at the specs of the Twintec S3 it runs at 65l/m max flow rate and uses 17L per regeneration cycle ( eg wasted water)


Insulate my windows from the outside? I have some windows that I want to insulate at night during the winter. I have energy star windows, thermal drapes, and cellular blinds and those plastic window film kit things, but I want to reduce my heating costs even more.
From my quick googling it looks like there is some danger in insulating "too well" from the inside, namely that I could end up with the window getting too cold and getting damaged by water or other thermal stuff. If that's wrong, please let me know and ignore the rest of this question.
If that's right, then I'm wondering what I can do to insulate my windows further while avoiding this issue. To me it seems intuitive to try and insulate my windows from the outside, ideally in a way that I can "turn off" during the daytime. Any ideas of how to do this? Maybe some kind of fancy shutters?
Thanks!

I always strongly recommend the 3M plastic insulation kits. One of their main products is transparent tape and that is what fails with other brands.
Insulating too much might mean you are risking condensation between layers or similar. In the winter the air is dry enough for this to be unlikely.  I have never seen it. The kits come in Inside and Outside varieties but the inside is the easiest to use.
During a snow storm in Chicago that came to be known as Snow-pocolypse my 3M plastic held up. The wind was so strong against my balcony that the plastic was distended from the window over 1 foot. I stacked boxes against it to take the strain off. I've had similar storms since but the 3M has never failed.
On windows without plastic I can feel the cold, not the wind, move right through.


How can I locate the source of a washing machine leak? I have an older washing maching, a Hotpoint 6 cycle heavy duty high capacity (I see a label with WLW3400, which I assume is the model number).

It is leaking and I am trying to discern the source. I have verified that is neither the input hoses nor the discharge hose (I was initially guessing the latter).

Other than a pinhole in the drum (which seems unlikely; it doesn't seem to leak until it well into the wash; I would think a drum hole would cause leakage very quickly... unless it's very high, I guess), what other sources of leaks could there be?

I did find this thread: Why does my washing machine leak only during the spin cycle? which mentions a belt, although it doesn't explain how water can leak from a belt being loose (I can certainly imagine other problems, and the machine does have some vibration issues at times).

I worked briefly for Sears fixing washers. A trick we used to find leaks was to put A sheet of newspaper under the machine until the leak starts. Then pull out the sheet. It will show you roughly where the leak is or where the water gets out, not always the same thing!


Teflon tape always leaking I have tried 3 turns, lots of turns , less turns, I do it the right way I am like 100% sure but I always get leaks, I use it for fittings in compressed air (8 bar).

I do it how the guy teaches in this video. What do I do?

I think some modern NPT threads are not as well made as in the past. I have had more leaks than decades ago. Used to be white Teflon tape would work every time, but the last four (recent) 1/2" and 3/4" NPT connections I have made leaked.

In both cases I had to take them apart and use pipe dope. One (washing machine supply valves hot and cold) seeped for days but finally sealed, another (outside faucets) had a serious seep and may or may not have stopped (outside and not a problem). First application of pipe dope didn't work; I took it apart again and this time used pipe dope on female as well as male threads. The water meter shows no observable leak.


Need help identifying sillcock valve make / model Need help identifying the sillcock valve shown in photograph.

That faucet has a few years on it. If it is leaking inside the wall you probably should just replace the faucet. It doesn't have to be the same brand.
Shut off the water and determine the source of the leak. In snow country it could be a burst pipe due to freezing. You'll have to access it from inside the house. If the inside of the wall is unfinished great, otherwise you'll have to open the wall. It will need to dry out anyway.
If you're in cold weather country you may want to replace it with a freezeless faucet.


Outdoor outlet to RV outlet Can I change an outdoor outlet from a standard plug in to a 30amp RV plug simply by changing the plug type & changing the breaker to 30 amp?

No. You will need to increase the size of your wire. Assuming the distance is short enough so that voltage drop isn't a problem, you will need at least 10AWG wire. Your standard outlet is most likely 12AWG or 14AWG, depending if it's on a 20A or 15A breaker.

You may want to have an electrian help you install this. Not knowing the wire needs to be changed along with the receptacle and breaker shows a lack of understanding in electrical work. DIY electrical work can be dangerous and should be done by those who are knowledgeable and qualified to work with electricity. Please know I'm not trying to burst your bubble or insult you. Safety is my number one priority and I wouldn't feel comfortable leaving this answer without this comment.


Furniture part identification Can anyone identify this furniture part? It's used in my Danish Modern style cabinet to hold the upper cabinet in place.

The middle brass part has female threads on both sides. The ends are screws.

I'm trying to find a source for them since my movers lost them, but without knowing the name it's hard to look call
 local furniture part stores to know if they have them.

The furniture screw connecting bolts appears to be a correct answer but posted in the form of a comment. A quick search for the term results in many ambiguous results, but there are some specific solutions as well. Search for cap nuts for connector bolts:

http://www.rockler.com/cap-nuts-for-connector-bolts

You'll find the same site also carries the bolts in various finishes and lengths:

http://www.rockler.com/connector-bolts-statuary-bronze-connector-bolts


How to replace a light bulb in ceiling light So I have those lights out of which most lightbulbs burned down, thus I want to replace them. Problem is that I have no idea how to get to them, tried to pull down the entire thing - but that just pulls down the entire "socket", tried to pry the "metal rim" with a flat top but that also didn't seem right, and I didn't want to possibly ruin it so I gave up.

Any ideas on how to get in and replace the bulbs? Also what type of bulb may it be so I can order replacements?

That looks like an old school can/recessed light which utilized flood light style bulbs. You should be able to apply slight pressure with your finger tips while turning counter clockwise to loosen/remove the bulb.


Condensing furnace short cycling I have a strange problem.

I have an IPC/Tempstar T9MPD075F12A3 condensing furnace, roughly 12 years old.  It uses a Honeywell SV9541M "SMART VALVE".

EDIT: Just found the service manual, checking it out now: Service Manual

EDIT2: Was not much help.

The furnace is short cycling.  The inducer comes on, the ignitor comes on, the flame comes on, the main blower comes on and stays on for a couple of minutes.

Then everything shuts down, blower first, then inducer for about a second, and then the startup cycle happens again.  This goes on indefinitely.

There are NO trouble codes.  I verified that the pressure switch is working both on and off, the limit switches are NOT tripping, the fire rod sensor/ignitor combo is OK (swapped it with the downstairs furnace that is working fine).

The interlock switch is functioning normally.

The odd part is that if I remove the bottom panel where the main blower is, and defeat the interlock the furnace runs fine without short-cycling.  So it seems like the extra intake air solves the problem.  There are no obstructions in the intake plenum, I even removed the filter and still get the same symptoms.

If it was a matter of not enough air causing the exchangers to overheat, wouldn't the limit switches trip?  And wouldn't the valve blink a trouble code?  If I manually pull the spade lug off of the limit switches the furnace shuts down and blinks a trouble code.  Same with the pressure switch.

What could cause short cycling with no trouble codes, that resolves itself by opening the lower panel to let more air into the main blower?

EDIT: As a test, I've bypassed all the limit/pressure switches on the wiring diagram one at a time, and the problem still occurred every time.  I thought maybe the control board mounted by the main blower might have a thermal problem that was alleviated by opening the bottom panel (then intake air flows across the board) but I put some fiberglass insulation over the board and could not get the problem to occur as long as the lower panel was open.

Do you have a single return grill near the center of the house or do you have numerous return grills in many rooms? If it is a single return grill, check to see if it has a filter that needs to be changed. Also it is possible that the blower fan's vanes have accumulated enough dirt and dust to reduce their ability to move enough air through the duct system but would allow the furnace to operate properly when the blower door is removed.


Relocating Main Panel I need to move the main panel to allow for new cabinets.It will be moved to other side of exsiting wall. I'm sure there are going to be short wires. What is the best way to extend wires to reach breakers?

For the branch circuits, if the wires/cables can still properly enter the panel enclosure you can simple extend the wires with wirenuts. This IS legal and proper contrary to what some might say.

If the cables do not even reach the panel box then you should splice them in junction boxes with the same size and configuration of cable to reach the panel.


Installing an exhaust fan in place of a light fixture I am installing a new exhaust fan with 2 lights. The box where the switch goes, has a 2 wire and ground coming in to it. The black is hot. When the light would be turned on both the black and white became hot so the white was my return. I am installing a 3 toggle switch in its place. Can I just use the wires there or do I need to run new wires from a power source. I am confused. I am thinking I need to run anew line, but don’t get it. Why can’t I use the wires in the box? The diagram for the switch shows a black hot coming in and then 3 blacks going out to the fixture. Then it shows white coming back as a return. Where do I hook that up? The existing white? Or no. I’m confused about that part. Yes there is a ground.

here is the picture of the old light fixture and box.

once the power comes into the switch box I plan to run into three toggle switch. I am running new wires from the box to the exhaust fan and lights

The choice is yours to make based on how much control you want.

Do you need to control the lights separately from the fan?

(do you mind if the fan comes on every time the lights come on?)

If no:

Just wire all the black wires to your existing black wire, the whites to white, and the ground to green and you are done!

If yes:

You'll need to run another wire.

If you decide you need to run another wire you need to ask your self

Do you need to control the lights independently from one another?

If yes:

Then you'll need to run 14/4 wire and 2 more switches. (instructions below)

If no:

Then you can use the 14/3 you bought, but will need an extra switch.

Instruction for connecting new wire:

Connect all neutrals in the fan/light box together with the neutral (white) of you newly run wire.
Connect the neutral wire directly to the neutral (white) in your switch box
Connect the green grounding wire to your copper or green wire of your newly run wire.
Connect the green (or copper) grounding wire of your new wire to the grounding wire in your switch box with an added jumper if required for your switch.
Connect each of your switches to your the hot wire in your switch box via jumper wires
Connect each switch then distributes power to one of the remaining colored wires  (and take note of the order)
Connect the other end of the wire to the desired device you want it to control


Should a water distribution manifold consist of a circular loop? I'm replacing the copper in my house with PEX tubing and I'd like to set up my new utility room with hot water and cold water manifolds.  Each connection on the manifold would then lead to either hot or cold on a plumbing fixture and I'd have shutoff valves to each at the manifold.

I recalled hearing somewhere that each manifold should consist of a circular loop; that is, the manifold should not terminate directly, but should contain a connection to circulate water back to the inflow of the manifold.  I'm not sure why this should happen, or if it should happen.

Don't know whether it matters, but I'm on well water.

The circular loop would only be for the hot water side. It is called a recirculating line and it is in place so when you turn the hot water on the line will not have to purge the cold water first, the hot water will be there at the ready in seconds. It is more expensive in energy costs since the hot water is always moving through the pipes and loosing a little heat which would need to be maintained.


How do I know what LED bulbs are safe to use in fixtures that are part of construction? In a recent question, I asked about different power ratings for LED and traditional incandescent light bulbs. In the accepted answer, the author explained that the different ratings are due to heat dissipation characteristics, and that it is not safe to run an LED bulb in a fixture that is not rated for that size LED bulb, even if it is rated for a much higher power incandescent bulb (ie. A 11W led / 60W incandescent fixture can't be used with a 20W led bulb.). While this works well enough for fixtures with labeling, the lighting that forms part of a building often does not have any labeling whatsoever. In the past, I have always replaced incandescent bulbs with a new incandescent bulb of the same rating, but that is not possible when replacing an LED with an incandescent bulb. What is the correct way to handle this?

The particular kind of fixture that makes up most of my house is this:

The house came with bulbs like this:

For interior recessed lighting, I don't think I've ever seen a can that wasn't rated for 60W or higher.  You can remove the bulb and the trim and look at the inside of the can for a sticker that lists the bulb wattage.  They normally do have labels.

That said, you have two options to update these.  You can get LED bulbs that are shaped like a standard light bulb if you want to keep your existing black trim.  You can also get LED bulbs that have an integrated trim (almost always a white trim).  To use these, you remove the current bulb and trim and replace with the LED module. They have a light bulb screw connector (Edison base) that screws into the existing housing to power the module.

Both the bulbs and the LED trim modules are made to work inside recessed cans, so the "MAX WATTAGE" label issue shouldn't matter here.

Random example light from SuperBrightLEDs


How do I replace a storm door when I have a cracked door jamb? So my storm door is in rough shape, and needs to be replaced.  It is a Larson storm with two closers (one at the top and one at the bottom).  The replacement door I have picked out is a Pella Select with the same double-closer arrangement (haven't bought it yet).

The door jamb around the upper closer is cracked.  Here is a picture (with a ruler for scale).

So, I need to repair the cracks.  Also, when I replace the door, I would like to use some bigger/tougher brackets so the new screws don't align with the old cracks, and to prevent a similar problem in the future.

For repairing the cracks, my plan was to remove the old door/closers/brackets and fill in the cracks with wood epoxy, let it cure, sand, and repaint the jamb.  In the past, I had good luck with this Elmer's product to fill in some rotted wood trim.  It cured harder than the original wood, and was easy to sand and paint.  (I never tried putting screws through it though.)  So, I was planning on using the same thing again.

Installing bigger/tougher brackets seems to be a challenge.  As you can see in the picture, the closer is very close to the edge of the door jamb (<1 inch), leaving me very little room to work with.  On the new Pella door, the closers appear to be closer to the edge than the old door, so it will be an even tighter fit.

Option #1: The two local home improvement stores sell the same brand of over-sized bracket (this one).  However, I have measured this bracket, and I don't think it will fit.  It is too tall, would hit the top of the jamb.  (Maybe I could file off the edge of the bracket.)

Option #2: I found this product called the Ultra Jamb Reinforcer.  Basically a big metal plate that goes under the bracket.  It supports being mounted in a top, middle, or bottom arrangement.  Using the top & bottom arrangement, I should be able to mount a pair of Ultra Jambs with room to spare.  I also like the Ultra Jamb because the screw holes are spread out, which would (hopefully) take stress off the cracked/epoxied wood.

Option #3: I could probably build my own reinforcing bracket with some strips of metal from the local hardware store.  Just hacksaw, file, and then drill some screw holes.  However, anything I make myself will probably not look as good as an off-the-shelf product.

So, my questions are:

Has anyone done a similar repair, and if so do you have any advice to offer?
Is the Elmer's wood epoxy a good way to repair the cracks?  Is there a better solution? (besides tearing apart the jamb)
Is the Ultra Jamb a good choice to reinforce the brackets?  Is there another product out there that will work better?

I agree with Jeff Widmer -- you don't need a bigger/stronger bracket, as it's not the bracket that failed, but longer screws to properly fasten the bracket.

Given that, your jamb repair doesn't need to be structural so don't sweat how strong it is and just make it look nice with whatever product you've used before and liked.  After you drill your pilot holes for the new bracket screws, drill out the repaired jamb with a bit that's larger than the screw threads so the screws don't stress your repair.  Of course you want this larger hole to only be the depth of the jamb, maybe 3/4".


New switch appears to work, but seems to show voltage running through switch buttons, is this normal? As it says on the tin, I just installed my new switch, and it seems to work just fine (both switches function as expected - the wiring/setup was identical between the old & new switches), but (thankfully), before I touched the switch after turning the power back on, I ran my AC voltage detector across them, and surprisingly there was voltage detected.
I thought maybe this is normal, but after checking all of my other switches, no voltage was detected in them.  So now I'm afraid to touch the new switch!
The condo is an older building (built in '63) and has no grounding wire; I made sure to mount the switch to the metal box first before testing, as I assume it grounds itself to its box.  Any experts here that can advise?
Here's a link to a photo of the old wiring pre-installation, and the new switch showing current on the buttons:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/weTS8YD2wdm3tqVm7

Well you can have phantom voltage but since you did not mention the measurement method I would say this is normal!
The lights work but sometimes a live wire is detected on a neutral or even a ground. This is called phantom voltage and can be found in almost every installation.


How do I rewire this circuit controlling several lights and receptacles? The wiring is suspended on the ceiling inside a metal tube that connects to each light socket and set of outlets at independent metal junction boxes. The first light in the chain finally stopped working the other day a couple years after the second and other lights down the chain kept blowing out new bulbs as they were used for the first time.  Something must be wired improperly since I cannot get any power at the switch or bulb sockets while there is power at the fuse box. How do I properly wire this?  Should I get new wiring with a third wire for ground?  If so, where should it be grounded to and what will the wiring look like at the junction for the switch and first light socket and down the line to the other lights and outlets? The fuse box is an old 30 AMP unit that uses fuses.

You have an aged system that is seriously compromised.  Based on the question, you seem to have little experience with eletrical work. It is usually better for a novice to begin with straighforward tasks on a healthy system.

I would strongly urge you to bring in a professional. As other have suggested, a full upgrade to the service panel and the wiring is highly desirable. While it may be possible to cure the current problem without a full ovehaul, you need someone very knowledgable with the right equipment to ensure that the repair is sound and safe.


What can I do about pocket doors that are blocked by floor tiles? I have double pocket doors in my den that I never close.  I was going to clean them today, and when I tried to close them they would not close because of the tile being to high. I had the tile put in about 3 yrs ago, and never even noticed that the tile is to high.  I thought it was because of the grout keeping them from closing, but it's the tile. I was able to get one of them to come out a little, but the other will not budge. Do you have a solution for this without having to take the tile out.

Click for full size image

That looks tight.

First effort would be to get the adjusters into reach and see if the door can be raised sufficiently.  From the looks of things, that isn't going to be enough.

You could futz around and replace the roller mechanism with a more compact one to gain a little height, but I have found it difficult to obtain compatible parts and very difficult to find anyone who would know where to obtain them.

The surefire solution is to open the walls, take out the doors, cut them to be shorter, reinstall, and then restore the walls.  Easily said, but potentially a lot of work.  However, it is probably easier to get the walls to be restored and looking good than whatever you might do to the flooring.


What should I do about a gap between a kitchen backsplash and the cupboards? Theres a small gap between the backsplash and cupboards,  the gap is too small to cut strips of backsplash to Make it look normal.  I have run out of ideas.  Any of you pros got any ideas?

The grout lines in the mosaic tile look like 1/8" is that right?

If that's the case you need to space the tiles up off the counter using 1/8" spacers. They shouldn't be directly on the counter as shown in your picture where you're just holding it. When grouting don't grout that area. Use a silicon caulk that matches your grout instead.

That leaves 1/4"  grout line between the top of the tile and the bottom of the cupboard which isn't ideal but shouldn't really be noticeable at that spot. That covers the 3/8" gap.

Or you can split the difference and do a 3/16" on top and bottom. May even want to try a black caulk for the top so you don't notice it against the black cabinets.


Deck post cut too short - possible solutions? I have a new deck going in the back of my house, about 6' off the ground. Made a HUGE mistake and made cuts on the posts 4.5" too short. Short of removing the posts and concrete, digging new holes and starting over, do any of these sound like good solutions?

Bolt a 4.5" shim to the top of the post to raise it
Remove post, add 5" of wet concrete to hole, re-use post
Place beams in notch and bolt to post. Add three 2x4s on top of each beam, attach these to the joists

Feeling pretty low right now, any guidance is much appreciated! Thanks!

Update #1: Responding to questions below:

Posts are 6x6
Top has been cut off posts and notch made for beams
Cement was added around posts in the post holes per code requirements
Primary goal = safety/code compliance. Cost is the major consideration in not starting over with new posts

I'm leaning towards option #3 below (clarified above). Any concerns about this? I discussed it with the city code inspector who thought it would be fine.

Best bet is to remove the posts and get ones that you can re-cut to the right length.

If you cemented in the bottom of the "short" posts now is the time to correct that. Try to use a metal bracket to hold the posts up off the concrete some so the post bottoms can dry if they get wet.


NEC Rules for Placing Outdoor Receptacles (Residential) What are the rules for where you can place an outdoor receptacle on your home? I read somewhere (can't remember where) that you are not allowed to tap power from inside a kitchen or laundry/utility room but I can no longer find the source. I am trying to add a couple of extra outdoor receptacles and want to ensure that I will be doing it according to code.

The counter top small appliance circuits (2)  and the laundry 20 amp circuit along with the bathroom are dedicated other than those most other circuits can be tapped
Article 210. Covers branch circuits.


Need help on wiring on these kind of outlet I live in the philippines, and i'm no electrician.

but I have some ideas about wiring.

I want to know how these 2 separate outlets should be wired correctly on one power source(only 2 wires).

They are called 2-gang universal outlet, there are 2 kinds of it that I have, as shown in the image.

The upper one, notice how one slot is slightly taller than the other.  That one is neutral.   Now depending on where you are exactly in the Philippines, sometimes there isn't a neutral wire at all, and the two legs are two hots, both 120V from ground, in which case it doesn't matter.

To connect the second socket, you go buy some 12 AWG wire and use the extra holes to jumper to the second socket.  Use white or light blue for neutral.

On the lower socket, throw that Chinese cheapie in the trash before it burns your house down.  It's not the Chinese that's the problem, it's

The socket promises ground, but you cannot provide ground.  That means you can plug in devices which depend on grounding to be safe, which is not safe!
Trying to accommodate so many types of plug, it doesn't do any of them well. You risk series arcing on any load bigger than a cell phone charger.
if your house has neutral, Type A/B plugs expect neutral on the left, whereas Type G plugs expect neutral on the right.  This matters if the tool isn't double insulated, and lots of A/B/G devices do depend on polarization and/or grounding for safety.

Polarization is why the upper socket has a taller slot on the left.  Polarization means "this pin is near ground" which is something you cannot promise in many places in the Philippines.   This varies block by block, it depends how your block's supply transformer is jumpered.

The upper "universal" one isn't so good either.  It takes two kinds of plugs: a Europlug, which is fine, but it also takes an American style NEMA 1-15.  The latter socket also takes a NEMA 1-15. Those are only for 100-127V power.  It is quite the habit in the Philippines to fit NEMA 1 and 5 onto 240V appliances.  That should not be done, and yes, I know "everybody does it".  Change them to some sort of Europlug, Schuko, Russian, British or Australian plugs, or even the very similar American NEMA 2 or 6 which are actually for 240V. Anything but NEMA 1 or 5.

I know Euro style plugs are a morass of conflicting designs, but settle on one and fit those sockets and plugs.  Combo sockets are no good generally.

The Philippines have three styles of power in use:

220V European style power, with neutral grounded, the standard on 4-1/2 continents.
220V Philippines special, with ground halfway (110V) between the two wires, neither is neutral.  At some point in the future, they plan to move the ground jumper on the transformer to make it the first style.
110V  North American style, with neutral grounded. The latter is now outlawed because Freedom(tm). These are slowly being converted to the second style, which is easy to do.  They cannot leap from this style to #1 in one step or they'll smoke everyone's appliances.


fence post setting regular quickcrete vs.fast setting hey so i've been building a couple fences lately and have been premixing with a concrete mixer i bought which was a couple hundred.
my question is can you mix the standard quikrete that comes in an 80lb yellow bag  $4.50 the same way you would do the fast setting quikrete that come only in the red 50 lb bag for $5.25?
im jaded by the price difference as well as the quantity difference.

do you recommend quikrete first then water or water then quikrete?

If the setting time is not an issue, you can certainly use normal quickcrete - or save even more money by purchasing cement and aggregate (sand/gravel/rock) and really making use of the mixer.

Standard concrete mixing practice is to mix the dry materials and then add water. Common error is to add too much water and make the resulting concrete weak, though fence post setting is not exactly a high stress job, normally.