Can I repair a broken overhead door opener drive gear? The garage door motor has snapped on the gear. When the garage is activated, the motor spins but the gear doesn't turn and so neither does the chain attached to the garage.

Can I keep the garage door opener and attach a new gear by taking apart the opener?

The pictured sprocket looks fine to me. You must mean either the internal plastic sprocket or worm gear. They are available for replacement from major brands.


What is this rotating pipe adapter called This is the solenoid valve from Orbit Water Timer I have. I want to know what is the rotating adapter on the right side called. I would want to buy one for some of the threaded taps that I have in my farm.
The adapter is great to connect to threaded male pipes. If anyone has Water Timer or some such, they should be able to identify clearly what I mean.
Is this something which can be easily purchased?

The fitting on the right side of the assembly in your picture is a union, it lets you make a threaded connection without spinning the whole assembly.  It's not just handy, it's essential because it lets you make a threaded connection where you cut into an existing system or when you're making complex assemblies that can't be built by spinning the pieces on sequentially one by one.


How can I fix/polish a slate tile imperfection after it has been laid down and grouted? Our contractor laid down a tile on our renovated bathroom and somehow did not realized that it was defective (see picture).  The defect is some sort of metal mineral (kind of rough) the kind that would hurt if you are walking barefoot and step on it. We noticed it before it was groutted but told the contractor the following day but by then it was already grouted.

Can anyone suggest a solution to how to polish/remove that mineral part without making too much damage to the tile? We have not yet put the sealant solution onto the tiles.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Let's start by saying the tile should be replaced. It still can be replaced even though the grout has been applied. I would insist on it.

There is little that can be done to repair the flawed tile, except sanding or grinding down the flaw. This would have to be done with extreme caution in order not to scratch and damage the area around the flaw. Perhaps a small stone on a Dremel tool might work if your careful. I doubt you will remove the off color, however. Hopefully the overall finish is a matte finish, because you probably could not bring it to a high polish finish without specialized tools like granite cutters use.


Weather sealing door in apartment I've got two 1-3/8" thick doors that lead into a small room that contains the water heater/central heater for my apartment. This small room also has vents that open to the outside, so the room gets quite cold. The two doors both have 1 inch wide gaps between them and the floor.

What's the best way to seal this in a non-destructive fashion? I looked for slide-on door sweeps (something like this), but I couldn't find any that fit 1-3/8" doors with a 1 inch gap. I looked at stick-on door sweeps (like this) but I'm not sure how easy it will be to remove them. I'll also need some kind of easy-to-unstick foam for the sides and top of the door, I figure.

I also basically never open these doors, so I don't need a solution that's resilient to use.

A draft stopper would probably work nicely, is not destructive, costs between $10 and $20, and stays in place even if you need to open the door:


Could a 130 volt bulb have overloaded a lamp specifying 120v bulbs? I had a floor lamp burst into fire from one of the lights. I don't think it was the lightbulb - it seemed like it was the wiring, but honestly I'm not sure. I was checking now to see if perhaps the wrong light bulb was in the lamp. I saw that although the lamp requires a 120 volt bulb I think the bulb in there was 130 volt. Could this have caused the problem?
The pictures show where the fire was. I was able to turn the lamp off right away, but when it was burning it was like a torch coming out of there. If there were curtains nearby, they almost certainly would have caught.

.

You can pretty much rule out the bulb as the culprit unless the wattage of the bulbs exceeded  the labeled maximum for the floor lamp. What usually happens then is the wires feeding the socket become toast and short out causing a short circuit and possibly tripping a breaker.
Examine all the wiring in the lamp with a continuity tester or just junk it and get a new one if you're not familiar with re wiring a lamp. If it's a keepsake item you can bring it to an appliance repair store and they'll rewire it.


I put 2-stroke fuel in my 4-stroke mower and now it won't start My first time doing the lawn. Trying to help. Now I can't get it to start.

Remove the air filter and spray a small blast of starting fluid into the carburetor. It should run for a second or two. If it does then the problem is the gas is most likely old/bad. If it doesn't run for even a split second then you're not getting any spark which means you have an ignition problem which is most likely a fouled spark plug.


How to stop exercise mats from slipping on a hardwood floor in a multi-use room? So I purchased some folding exercise mats to put in my basement.  The allocated floor space is multi-use, so I need to be able to put the mats away when not in use.

The problem I am running into is that the mats slide around rather easily on the smooth hardwood floor.  I'd like to find a way to keep them from sliding around, but with the following considerations:

I don't want to damage the hardwood floor, of course.
I don't want to install anchors in the floor.  Some type of anchoring
on the baseboard trim around the perimeter might be ok.
I need to be able to setup the mats and tear them back down quickly.
Currently, I can just fold them up and put them away in less than
one minute (it's only two mats).  I'd like to keep around that
timeframe - i.e. no super complicated setups.
I don't want to get the floor "sticky" with some adhesive or anti-slip coating.

I'm fine with putting something on the underside of the mats, so long as it doesn't leave a residue on the floor.

I'd prefer not to be forced to place heavy weights on the mats to keep them in place, because a)  it takes up space on the mats (I only have about 64 sq ft), and b) I'd be nervous about dropping the weights and causing personal injury or damage to the floor.

Can anyone recommend a solution?

Thank you.

Look into non-slip rug pads. They work well for me on our laminate floor and come in various sizes.


What threading type is my ice maker shut off valve? In my new apartment, I moved in to find the water dispenser in the fridge is not working. I quickly diagnosed the issue by moving the fridge away from the wall and finding that there is a water line coming out of the wall with a shut off valve at the end, but it is not connected to the fridge. A quick try convinced me that I cannot directly connect the free male end of the shutoff valve with the male end I found on the back of the fridge. The issue seemed pretty standard, as I found many online sellers selling an "ice-maker supply line" with female compression ends that seemed like they would do the job.

When this part arrived, I was able to connect it to the fridge with minimal trouble, but it would not connect to the shutoff valve no matter how hard I tried. Eventually, I discovered that even though the nut seems like it is the right female counterpart to the male threading on the free end of the shutoff valve and is almost a correct fit, it is not. In fact, the two sides of the shutoff valve are not equivalent, with the side connected to the water line coming from the wall being the correct counterpart to the female ends of the "ice-maker supply line" I ordered. So, it seems that I need to get an adapter to go between the two, but it would help to know what exactly I am looking for, since I can't take the shutoff valve with me to the hardware store. Can anyone help me identify the threading type I am looking for? What are the dimensions I need to measure to confirm the identification?

One side of your needle valve is 1/4" compression thread, that is the side with tubing connected to it. The watertight connection is accomplished when the compression nut squeezes down upon and cinches the compression ferrule (a brass sleeve that fits over the tubing) tightly to the tubing.

The other end is 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Thread). NPT fittings seal by the taper of the thread (with teflon tape or pipe thread compound to facilitate) and are utterly incompatible with other types of threaded fittings.

You will likely need an adapter to fasten the valve to "the male end... on the back of the fridge". If you post a picture of that end we might be able to tell you the type of adapter you need.


Is this a faulty GFCI receptacle? Need some advice on an electrical issue I'm having in my new condo.

My bathroom has a GFCI receptacle (similar to this one). I noticed one morning that the LED indicator was out, so I figured something tripped it. I had a hair dryer plugged in, so maybe it shorted out. No biggie, I'll just hit the reset button... but nothing happened. It would not reset! To make things worse the bathroom light and fan were also off. Not sure if it's common to wire these to the GFCI?

So next I went to check the breaker to see if something was tripped, but nothing was. Interestingly there was no specific breaker for the bathroom, so I went flicking breakers one by one. Eventually I discovered that the GFCI was on a "general wall plug" circuit. I toggled this breaker and the GFCI turned back on, along with the light and fan. Great problem solved. Well not exactly. Here's when things get a bit strange.

When turning on the bathroom light, I noticed some heavy flickering. A few minutes later the GFCI triggered. Light went off. Great. To made things worse the hard-wired fire alarm started chirping (indicates loss of power). So apparently now the fire alarm is also wired on the same circuit.

Anyways, I knew the drill now. Press the reset button, toggle the breaker, everything works. Alarm stops chirping.

Later in the evening I had the kitchen (recessed) lighting on, and I went to turn on the living room free-standing light. Guess what? GFCI trips and this light as well as the kitchen lighting went off, and the fire alarm starts chirping.

One more thing to note is that when the GFCI is "working", pressing test works (only bathroom light and fan are disrupted, not any other lights/sockets or fire alarm), and I am able to reset it just fine. It's only when it trips itself there are issues and I can't reset it without toggle the breaker.

So what is going on here? Why does the test button have a different downstream impact over it's "failure" state? Should replacing the GFCI solve the issue?

Any feedback is appreciated!

The GFCI device only protects part of the circuit, that's why there's a difference between the breaker tripping and the GFCI device tripping. When the GFCI is tripped, only the protected items lose power. When the breaker trips, the entire circuit; including the GFCI and protected devices, loses power.

It sounds like you may have a serious problem, that you might want to have a professional investigate.


What is the most durable ferrous metal pipe against heat? ***UPDATE***I have researched passive fireplace air heaters. The pipes are configured in a "C" shape. There are between 4-6 pipes joined side-by-side at the top and bottom with plates. The wood and than fire is built in the crook of the pipes. When placed correctly the lower openings pull in the rooms cool air were it is heated from the fire. It re-enters the room from the top pipe opening.   If you notice the thin pipe walls in the photo I don't see this product lasting more than a few fires before the fire degrades the metal. To me, the pipes in the photo appear to be similar to fence posts from a chain link fence or automotive muffler pipe.     I'm planning a build that would follow this design and would like to know what weld-able (arc or MIG) or braze-able  pipe material would be the most durable? Durable as far as being able to withstand being heated for several hours without the pipe walls decaying?   The pipes would not be under any internal pressure nor carry anything but air from the room.

Cast iron. Which is conveniently already in the configuration you need at your local scrap yard: old radiators. That is, assuming this doesn't have to be potable.

Other than that I'd guess we're talking about some expensive exotic steel you probably can't wield very easily anyway, like lab equipment.

I'd like to think that regular old black pipe would stand up to this, especially if you could keep the fittings out of the flames and you mount it allowing for expansion.

However and whatever you build it out of, I'd test a mock-up before you start making endless loops only to find it pops your wields or the fittings. It's not the pipe walls, it's the joints. As long as they aren't subject to physical damage, your no where near hot enough to damage the metal.

Also... if you ever do get the pipes hot enough to melt with water inside them, something has blown up. What are we building here and where's the safety valve(s)? ;)


Can I install a new dishwasher with no ground conductor? I am installing a new Bosch dishwasher and my current wiring has no ground wire. Also it comes with a junction box and special plug to supply power to the unit. Just wondering how to properly ground it and if it will work at all without the ground

The dishwasher does not know if you have a ground or not. The ground wiring on the inside of the machine (the dishwasher in this case) is tied to everything that will conduct electricity easily and could come into contact with the user; typically anything metal.

A ground wire can be thought of as simply a backup neutral. So if a hot wire ever touches some part of a metal system, the current will have this backup wire to run the current back to the breaker box. The breaker will detect this increase in current (unimpeded path) and trip which will cut off power to the device. If this wire weren't here, the metallic object would be energized, but it would not trip a breaker. It would simply be waiting for something (a person) to come along and touch it to give it a better path to ground.

So, as long as a hot never comes loose, you wouldn't need the ground. But if it ever were to, this wire could save a life (or prevent a really strong tingling sensation).

To shorten things off and end this; you don't need the ground for the dishwasher to function. It will work perfectly fine without one and you just wouldn't connect the ground wire on the other end. You then run the risk of a wire coming loose though.

But, what should be done regardless and will also provide grounding functionality is to use a GFCI breaker. The breaker would replace the existing breaker feeding the dishwasher and include a pigtail to the neutral. This breaker detects the current that is feeding into the circuit and out of the circuit. As long as everything is running like normal, it will work like a normal breaker. However, if a hot ever comes loose, the GFCI would detect that current is going in, but not as much is coming out and the breaker would trip itself.


Do I need to have a water supply connected to a refrigerator to seal the plumbing against microbes? I bought a new fridge and moved the old one to the basement. Do I need to connect water supply to the old fridge to stop contamination of the lines, and water filter, by bacteria? I don't need the ice or water down there, but I don't want to damage the units either.

If you don’t use the lines over time things will grow in poly tubing, but copper not as much. If you have a plug for the line it will keep it from dribbling and collecting contaminants, but the lines will need to be flushed after a period of no use.


How can I prevent water from puddling in a play area? We have clay in our yard. I have spent a good two hours digging out the square space under our slide area of our swing set. I dug deep enough to have deep enough sand for the kids. However, due to the clay bottom I'm concerned in getting standing water inside after rain or when using the hose. What can I do to ensure drainage? Any suggestions? I'm ready to put weed fabric down then sand. Our swing sets sits on a bank so there is a slope behind the set itself.

Thank you.

I would put the fabric in and see how it works. If the hole holds water then dig a trench from the low side of the area to your sand box area. I would normally use perf pipe but you may be able to put some sand / gravel in the cloth and drop it in the trench and cover up. The water would drain through the sand. And water the lower area.


furnace heating air inlet and outlet I saw a diagram as below:

I am confused with inlet air and outlet air. I think heating air should be all output from the vent port, why still need some inlet air? If I clogged the inlet air,what's the negative impact to my heating system?

The furnace needs combustion air to allow the fuel in the furnace and water heater to burn efficiently. Too little supply air can produce a lot of adverse effects.


Where can I purchase a block of aluminium? I'm need a 5" x 5" x 1" block of aluminium.  Is this something I can buy online and are there different types of aluminum to consider? Will I have to buy a bigger piece and cut the aluminum down to my specific size?

I need a solid base that I can tap with hole to mount into a DIY slider dolly.

There are several online metal suppliers that will also make custom cuts.  Online Metals is one that I have used.  There is a minimum length that you must order (usually 1 ft) and a charge per cut.  Depending on where you live you might also find a local metal supplier that can do the same for you.

Wherever you order, I'd suggest you get two 5" pieces cut from 1ft of 1" x 5" bar and then you'd have a spare.  I would definitely try to have someone else do the cutting for a piece that size.  Rectangular tubing might also be something to consider.

Here is a reference on the same supplier for the aluminum alloys they stock.  Be sure to check the prices as they'll vary, but I believe 6061 is one of the more widely used alloys.


Copper pipe identification using electrical current My HVAC contractor installed two linesets, one from my basement apartment, one from the main unit, both going to the roof where the air condensers are. The problem is, he did it over several days and I have a suspicion that he messed up which pipe/wire goes where, i.e. that he mixed them.  He claims that he marked it along the way but I am skeptical.  Both linesets (fat and skinny flex copper, power supply, and thermostat) enter the roof through lead cones.  It is not possible to trace the pipes along the way because most of their way is now blocked to sight.  Only the linesets have been installed thus far, so there is no air handler/condensers installed on their end, so the pipes are empty.

Is it possible to use a small amount of current (from a battery?) and send it on one end of the pipe while checking it with a multimeter or some voltage detector on the other end?  If yes, how should I rig up such a contraption?  Can I just wire the battery onto the pipe?

Put an earbud from your cell phone or iPod in one of the tubes. Crank up some music. Put your ear to the other end. You will absolutely be able to tell the difference between the one with the earbud in it and the other three.


Can I apply water based polyurethane over oil based polyurethane and vice versa? I can see brush strokes on a dining table from a previous application of polyurethane.

I want to sand these and re-apply polyurethane.  I do not know whether the previous application was a water-based or oil-based product.

What should I do?

What you will want to do is to get a polyurethane stripper with brush, a pair of rubber gloves, a scraping tool, fine grit sandpaper (200), a clean cloth, and a well ventilated room.

Start by applying the polyurethane stripper liberally and evenly over the wood using the brush. Let it stand for about 5 minutes or whatever the directions instruct you to do.

Using the scraping tool, gently scrape off the polyurethane in the direction of the wood grain, taking care to remove the scrapings as you go along using a clean cloth.

Once the scraping is completed, lightly sand the wood in the direction of the grains until the surface is smooth.

You're now ready to apply the finish of your choice, whether it be polyurethane, a stain, or paint. :)


Should I replace my main water valve with a SharkBite shut off valve? Currently my main water shut off valve is soldered using a 3/4 globe valve. However the stem is leaky and I am thinking of replacing it.

Is it a good idea to cut it out and replace it using a SharkBite ball valve? Are SharkBite valves good to use for a main shut off valve replacement in a house or will the pressure deteriorate its O-ring much too quickly? I do not want to solder a joint on as I am a newbie.

Why not just repack the valve stem?  It's cheaper, easier, and faster.

PS: I am sure the sharkbite valve would be fine.


What material to use to patch a hole near a heater? The previous owner installed a base-board heater in the bathroom, but did a really poor job.  Below the heater, there is a hole in the drywall where the wiring goes into the wall about the size of silver dollar where cold air is blowing into the bathroom.  The hole is well concealed (only visible when I get down on my hands and knees), so I'm not worried about it from a cosmetics point of view, I just want to seal it so to stop the draft.

What material(s) should I use that close to a heater?

Use a fire retardant expanding foam:

Be sure to turn off the electricity to the heater first, then simply spray it in the gap, wait for it to expand and dry, then cut it flush with the wall and paint over it.


Bracing a metal-tubing clothing rack Edit: See my answer below for the solution I eventually used.

I bought a poor-quality clothing rack made out of metal tubing. Due to a design or manufacturing flaw, it sways badly from side to side. I want to fix it by adding a simple diagonal brace between the vertical bars and the horizontal base bars. Here's a simple illustration (the real brace should probably be longer and attach further out):

I'm not much of a DIY'er and I have a basic set of tools but no metalworking tools. My best idea was to try to find some metal tubing, flatten the ends, bend them with a vice/pliers to 45 degree angles, drill holes through the flattened end of the brace and into the clothing rack bars, and fasten the brace into the bar with a screw.

I browsed a hardware store and couldn't find anything like the above, and all the metal tubing / pipe I could find (in plumbing, etc.) is much too thick to be easily shaped/drilled like that.

Any suggestions on what I might look for, or other simple and creative ways to make a brace?

Why not use steel strap?

You can round and smooth the ends, and bend them up to bolt through the upright and horizontal supports.

These straps do not have the compression (push) strength of tubing, but if used on all four bottom corners, their tension (pull) strength should prevent the racking that you are trying to cure.

The illustrated piece is 12" but you should be able to find longer pieces. They could be painted black or silver if the bare metal is too rustic.

  Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


What could be causing this electrical issue? The problem occurs within one particular unit of an apartment complex. All other units are fine. The problem has gradually gotten worse. All electricity within the house will flicker on and off. It is most obvious with the lights but TVs, stove, and other appliances are affected as well.

At first, this would only be triggered when using a lot of electricity (ie microwave, space heater, several things at once), but now it seems to happen at random times. The tenant even gave me a scenario of when he woke up early one morning to use the bathroom and it happened as soon as he turned on the bathroom light. No one else was up and therefore minimal electricity was being used at the time.

I have had PGE come out to look at the problem and its not their end. They also told me that because it's happening to the entire unit at the same time, it most likely is a problem somewhere from the main box outside to the box inside the unit and specifically the neutral line. When he took measurements from the individual breakers inside the unit and measurements would be as high as 160ish in some parts while 40ish in others. You can also see this in the ceiling lights (unusually bright in the kitchen and unusually dim in the bathroom). This problem has also damaged several appliances and things within the house (dvr recievers, dvd players, etc).

Any suggestions? The electrician located the neutral line in the junction box. No damage or charring and the connection was still tight. He looked in the main panel outside - minimal corrosion, still tight. He added some paste to maximize conductance and that was it. The breakers inside are fine. He even opened up most of the wall switches and outlets to investigate but found nothing. Any ideas? This is a problem that has kept me up for about a month. I'm afraid of it being a fire hazard too.

If you are the landlord I would have another electrician come out to check it.  It be something like a factory defect in the subpanel or main panel.  Every lug could be tightened and torqued to factory specs but the lug might be stripped out.

If you are the renter then I would make it clear to your landlord that this is a serious problem and you want if fixed now.

Which ever you are I would have every lug on the ground, neutral and hot sides torqued down to factory specs.  Get the electrician to do a thermal reading while the panel is hot and having the problem.  This would surely cause extra heat where ever it is happening.  If the electrician does that and nothing changes have PGE torque everything on their end and do the thermal reading.

I had the same problem and when they removed the meter and left I removed the Edison side covers and one of the lugs was never tightened on their end but it was a factory connection that was the problem.

Edit On questions on what to use to torque a circuit breaker, see this.  Each breaker has a label on it with the torque rating on it.  At one time there was talk of inspectors carrying torque wrenches with them to spot check circuit breakers, but I know of no electricians own a torque wrench.  When I ask they say just tighten them down as hard as you can and they will pass any test.  My guess is that most residential breakers use about 20 to 25 foot inch lbs per square inch.

Most of the time torquing happens is in industrial plants where they want to get the maximum life out of everything, including breakers.  This is also why thermal cameras are sold to electricians.  Heat spots are bad and most of the time it is a loose connection.

In the OP's case I would definitely use the phrase Torque to specifications, especially if he puts any thing in writing.  His problem can wreak havoc on electronics and motors.


How do I identify the breaker a non-working outlet is on? I have an electrical outlet that doesn’t work and needs to be changed. Is there anyway to figure out what circuit breaker is attached to the outlet to avoid switching off the main power to the whole house?

Short answer:  You don't really know why that receptacle doesn't work, and the simplest thing is to just shut off the main.
If it's a bad receptacle as you are assuming, you can't test it reliably outside the box.  That puts you in a bit of a catch 22;  you can't figure out which branch circuit breaker the receptacle is on, so you can't shut off the branch circuit breaker so it's safe to go inside the box.
If the problem is with the neutral connection, a non-contact voltage in the ungrounded slot in the receptacle will indicate voltage.  If that's the case, you could flip breakers until that goes out to determine which breaker that receptacle is on.  It's not wise to put too much confidence in a non-contact tester, so you'd want to proceed with great caution opening that box.
In fact it's probably better to just turn off the main.  And it is still wise to proceed with caution, checking and double checking to verify no presence of voltage as you go.


Where to install underfloor heating under tile; thinset layer or concrete? Putting in either a thermal wire/mesh (SunTouch) type underfloor heater or carbon film under tile.

The subfloor is OSB.  Going to pour 3/4" of LevelQuik Self-Leveling Concrete (replacing Gyp-Crete that was removed) and then thinset and tile.  Which is the proper layer for the underfloor heating to go in?  Energy efficiency is of minimal importance.

Pro of putting it in the concrete is it would survive a re-tile job, possibly?  Whereas putting it in the thinset below the tiles means it's junked during a retile.  My only worry is that it wouldn't heat properly if it was in the concrete layer.

With the sun touch it goes on a mat under the backer or cement. The thicker your space to the tile is the more even the temp will feel and it won’t be bothered if you decide to retile. I thought it was so nice I put it im 2 of my bathrooms.


Run cat5e/coax parallel to power conduit I am in the process of rewiring my basement and trying to route all my cables using J-Hooks along the rafters in my semi walk in crawlspace.  This includes running the cables to my new server rack.  Problem I have is contrary to my request to have the power plugs up in the rafters, electrician mounted them under the rafters.  Because of this, in order to get the trunk from one switch to the one in the rack, I need to run for about 4 feet, parallel to a power conduit.  Outside of it, but still parallel to it until the cat5 and coax (Comcast box in the rack), drop down into the rack from the top opening.  See setup below.

Right not cat5 is draping down to show it more visually, and can see in theory where I'd be dropping it vertically into the server rack.  Didn't want to install any hanging J-Hooks in that area until I knew if it was a good idea or not.  Technically have one sitting above the 30A plug if you can make it out.

I do have some Monster plastic cable wrap like this:

(broken image: http://www.rubbersealstrips.com/uploads/140828/1-140RQI515B6.jpg)

But thinking this isn't going to offer any protection if it's even needed.  Is what I'm doing a problem or should I not really see any issues with this?  If I will, any suggestions for alternatives or other types of wires?  Will be running basically 4 cat5 wires for a trunk between switches, 1 cat5 wire for the phone line running into the Comcast cable modem, and two coax runs, one to the cable modem the other to a media center PC recording shows.

Note, trying to avoid drilling holes all the way across the rafters from the left side to the right to run the cables themselves in the rafters, also hate to move them a foot or so forward into the room as then it encroaches on the top shelf of the shelving unit I have to the left of the picture (you can see the end of it in the first pic, and ideally rather not run this on the floor and then up.  Last one is because it's probably not ideal if basement floods and my current cables wouldn't make it then (last part not a big deal can cut more).

Thoughts?

Thanks.

JR

You have not stated any reason that would appear to prevent the obvious solution (if you consider it a problem at all) of running the network wiring along the face of the wall at the same level as the server rack, or roughly 12" below the power conduit. If the basement/crawlspace floods enough to flood the server rack you probably should rethink the location of the server rack, and in any case the cables being run horizontally higher up won't help a bit in that case.

You could also move the cables far enough forward into the room (3-4 feet, say) that they don't encroach on your shelving unit, then run them back along the joist (it's holding up a floor above if it's a crawlspace, so rafter is not the right term - those have a roof above them) to the server rack.

Despite a number of "trying to be perfectionist" scare stories about needing to keep network and power cables well-separated, the fact is that the differential pairs in Cat5 (or 6, or 7) are designed to reject interference, and that the frequency domains of networking signals and power line noise are utterly different. So, in practical terms you can wire tie (just not too tight - sharp bends are bad) the network wires to the power conduit and not have any interference problems in a typical home application.

Coaxial cable is self-sheilded by design and thus also highly unlikely to pick up any objectionable interference simply by being run next to power or network wires.

Since all you are really considering is running them parallel at a few inches distance, you will be fine doing that (do avoid a sharp bend anywhere, particularly where you turn downwards and might be tempted to yank the wire tight around the J-hook.)

While I do generally try to maintain the oft-suggested 12" separation for parallel runs when designing from the ground up, I have hundreds of feet of Cat5e that is in close proximity to power wiring in old building retrofits, and connected to switches that report error rates - and those error rates are pretty much always zero, unless there is a more fundamental problem with the cable (like rats chewing on it, a sharp kink/bend, or a bad connection at the end of it.)


Kitchen wiring issue We recently bought a 1978 home in Florida.

The kitchen wiring leaves me scratching my head. I think I have solved 2 of 3 major problems, but need advice on the last.

(see pic)

4 different 20A tandem breakers in play.  One of them was split into 2 INSIDE the breaker panel, one was split in a gang box so I am dealing with 6 "hot" wires & only 4 neutral wires.

1) 12/3 Romex. Black/neutral on one breaker [16 L] leads to kitchen GFCI outlet --> regular outlet --> kitchen light switch --> kitchen light. Red "hot" [14 L] leads to light (former fan) in living room with light fixture neutral connected to neutral wire from the kitchen breaker.

To solve the shared neutral problem, we disconnected the living light and connected it inline with the living room outlets using 12/2.

(The kitchen light is downline from a GFCI which isn't ideal but I don't want to mess with what works.)

2) Breaker 16 L splits inside the breaker box with a hot single black wire through conduit to the other side of the kitchen.  That wire powered the microwave, dishwasher + 2 outlets and had NO neutral. (Neutral for this breaker is on other side of room in the 12/3.)

In that SAME conduit are a hot/neutral from breaker 14 R. This was used to power the garbage disposal through an under-sink outlet. The neutral from 14 R was then wired up from the disposal outlet & connected to ALL of the other appliances/outlets on 16 L.

To solve this shared neutral, we 1st removed the microwave and put it on it's own 20A circuit.

Next thing was to disconnect everything & wire the 14 R breaker from dishwasher outlet ---> disposal switch ---> GFCI under-sink outlet.

3) That leaves us with 2 outlets adjacent to the sink with power but no neutral.

QUESTION:

Would it be better to splice in a neutral wire from one side of the kitchen to the other.  There is a junction box directly above, so it should be fairly easy.

OR

Would it be better to remove the splice on 16L inside the breaker box and run a whole new 12/2 to the sink outlets?

My concern splicing a neutral is with using GFCI outlets and having the same neutral run through GFCI outlets on both sides of the room.  Would that cause problems?

My concern with running new wire is using up 4 breakers just for the kitchen.

Thanks for any advice!

Ok.  The fundamental rule is that currents must be equal in every cable or conduit.

Yes, current travels in a loop.  But in actual practice, we squeeze that into a "tree" topology.   Imagine you draw a tree on a piece of paper, and send an army of 2-dimensional ants (current) to explore the tree.  They are not allowed to hop across branches, but they can wander from branch to branch without going back to the bottom of the trunk.  At any point on the tree, if you count the total ant passages, exactly the same number of ants (current) go up any branch as come back down.

This equal flow assures the current does not induce magnetic fields and eddy-current heating into nails, sinks, piping and other metal parts of your house.

Now it's OK to have 3 wires, 10A going out on one, 2A going out on the other, and 12A returning on the third.  That's still equal.  That's how a sometimes-on switch wire can travel with an always-hot.

Multi-wire branch circuits

That is also how a multi-wire branch circuit works, which is what you have on 14L and 16L.  It's not an accident they are 2 numbers apart; they must be on opposite poles or they will overload the neutral.

And it's perfectly fine for part of a multi-wire branch circuit to have one side branch off in another direction, as in 16L.  However its neutral must run with the partner hot.  So whatever is going on in 16L, you must make sure that wherever the hot runs, the neutral is right next to it.

If you're working in conduit, as I suspect you are, your local actual electrical supply house sells THHN wire in 11 colors and tape in 10.  Use different colors.  Gray and white are both legal for neutrals, so when you have two circuits in close proximity, ask them to sell you some gray neutral wire.

You see where there are points where the MWBC splits off to just one hot with just one neutral.  That is a prerequisite for working with GFCI+receptacle devices.  That is fine, again, keep the hot with the neutral at all times.   Now, a few new Code requirements with MWBC:

Anywhere both sides rely on the same neutral, the neutral must be pigtailed. You must be able to remove the device without interrupting the neutral wire for either side.

Both sides of the MWBC must have a common maintenance shutoff, which in practice means thet must be on a 2-pole breaker.   When dealing with duplex, you get a "quadplex" that is a 2-pole in the middle and two singles on the outside, like this one.


What kind of treatment should I use on bottom wall plates to prevent decay? I have a bathroom project in my basement. I made the mistake of not using pressure-treated lumber for the bottom plate. Everything is roughed in, and I have access to the framing since I haven't put up cement board yet.
We do get some leaks in this area when it rains hard. We have recently regraded the ground outside, so hopefully it won't leak anymore, but I have to assume that it will.
I would like to cover the plates with some kind of paint to at least give them some kind of protection from mold. I know that it's impossible to paint the bottom of the baseboards.
What kind of paint should I use to cover these boards? And is there a way to seal the edges to prevent water from seeping in underneath them?

I assume you're talking about the bottom or sole plate of framing which is laid horizontally, correct?
If you have wood resting on a concrete floor then there isn't much you can do. The floor will forever wick water into the wood from below and rot it out; even when it's not raining.
If you put some sort of sealant in the corner where the wood meets the floor then you'll prevent excessive water from flowing into the wood but concrete absorbs water and will just distribute it into the bottom of the wood anyways. This would also lock in moisture and prevent any chance of it drying.
If you fully seal the wood with some sort of paint then it will likely hasten the rot since the bottom will still be wet and have no source of fresh air drying.

So, what can you do?
You can buy pressure treatment solution, run thick bead of caulk along the floor 1/4" away from the bottom plate, and pour that solution into the makeshift "pool". You need the wood to absorb this solution so the longer it sits the better. When you're ready then pull up the caulk and finish your renovation.


Bathtub water drain moving toilet water When the bathtub water (after a bath for my toddler) is draining,why does the toilet bowl water move?

This is a new home and this toilet recently had problems with the tank not filling and therefore not flushing well.

All these lines are connected, but it's not easy to say how without inspecting under the floor. I'd say there's a good chance the shower, possibly sink too, are connected to a one vent, and that drain is a wet vent for the toilet where they join further down stream. Then everything runs down to a main stack. That would be a fairly typical setup.

If you see bubbling in the toilet from the bath, or hear gurgling in the tub from the toilet, you may have a problem with a blocked vent. Otherwise, some movement can be expected. As the water rushes past the wye connection to the toilet, it causes some pressure changes pushing the water up or pulling it down on the other side of the trap (the toilet bowl). You're also likely to see that on a windy day just from wind blowing over the vent pipe on the roof. Other traps do the same thing, but you can't as easily see them.


How do I fix stucco that is falling off of the walls? I have slump block walls that were covered in stucco at some point and now in places it's falling off. I know I need to power wash the wall and then use some kind of bonding agent so the new stucco will stick to the old wall but how do I apply the stucco? I feel like going from the skip trowel stucco look to the adobe look but that's a lot of walls to cover just to avoid learning how to do it the skip trowel way.  Suggestions?

This depends on how patient you are. My personal experience with plaster and stucco is that this is definitely one of those jobs best left to a professional: they'll cover in an hour what a beginner would take two days for.


Is it OK to stop the indoor blower during heat pump defrost on split-system heat pumps? The traditional North American split system heat pump (ignoring "dual fuel" systems for now) relies on a backup heat source to provide both makeup heat during low-temperature (below the system balance point) operation and, more importantly for this, outdoor unit defrost cycles.  This backup heat is typically supplied by heat strips, and generously sized ones at that, considering that during defrost, the backup heat must carry the entire house heating load.

However, as documented in this Mitsubishi application note and this government research paper, mini-split heat pumps stop or radically slow their indoor fan when defrosting to avoid filling the room with cold air, since they do not have a backup heat source to run during defrost cycles.  This has the downside that they are not actively heating during defrost, but even without that, they are able to provide heating in most climactic conditions using this defrost strategy and sensor-based defrost cycle triggering without aid from a standby heat source.

Is there a reason that one could not use a couple extra wires in the outdoor unit cable and an inexpensive fan relay to retrofit a split system heat pump with the ability to perform a "fan stop" defrost cycle instead of turning the standby (backup, emergency) heat on?  This seems like an obvious target for energy savings, given that emergency heat is far more power-hungry than heat-pump heat.  Furthermore, even without any energy-efficiency benefits, this would likely allow the backup heat to be significantly downsized in climates where it's not heavily relied upon, as now it only has to be sized to make up the heat pump's capacity deficit at the heating design (99%) outdoor air temperature, not the entire house heating load.  This can reduce electrical service sizes, and also position the system to be more easily handled by a backup generator.

During the defrost cycle, inside heat is not being pushed to the outside as you stated  "the parasite heat load of heat that is being pushed from inside to outside to defrost the coils themselves". The inside fan has to run to insure that the liquid refrigerant entering the indoor coil is vaporized so that liquid refrigerant does not flow back to the compressor. The outdoor coil is defrosted by the "heat of compression". The temperature of the outdoor coil is elevated by the compressor pumping the refrigerant vapor to a very high pressure which produces a very hot gas to defrost the coil. Since the outdoor fan is turned off during the defrost cycle, the refrigerant does not condense and the coil pressure rises as does the coil temperature. The colder the outside temperature the need for defrost cycles is reduced due to less water vapor (humidity) being on the air. Less humidity results in less water vapor to coat the outdoor coil. The back-up heat is turned on to temper the now cold air that is being generated by the defrost cycle.-------- Add-on to answer; actually @ThreePhaseEel my explanation does answer your question; you asked if you could add a relay to shut off the indoor fan. You can , but do you want to gamble on slugging liquid into the compressor which may screw up the compressor. The indoor fan runs because it should. The heat strips turn on to keep the discharge air at a reasonable temperature. They do not have to run for the defrost to work.


What are some ways to remove hardened thinset from drain pipes? We have a drain trap in a floor that is clogged with thinset and/or cement grout. The pipes are almost impossible to reach so replacement is a last option.

You're really not going to get away from excavating the P-trap and replacing it. Anything that would damage concrete would almost certainly damage the pipes as well (PVC or metal)


Can I use 20 feet 2x4 studs to add a ceiling in the garage? I have a garage that is 22 feet by 18 feet. It does not have a ceiling but it has a roof and everything. One side is the wall that it shared with the house. And the other side is the outside wall. I intend to screw in a 22 feet 2x4 stud to the side walls. Then use 18 feet long 2x4 studs across resting them on top of the 22 feet long studs on the walls. I will then screw them in. I add the 18 feet studs every 16 inches all the way to the end. Finally I like to add drywall to the bottom of the 18 feet studs to have a drywall ceiling. Is this okay and safe. Thanks

2x4’s at 16” o.c. spanning 18’ will not work. They’ll sag under their own weight, much less adding a layer of gypsum board.

The Code requires a minimum live load of 10 lbs. per square foot for limited storage (maximum clear space between new floor joists and roof joists of 42”) and 20 lbs. for uninhabitable storage space. (See IRC Table R301.5.)

If you want to use 2x4’s, I’d add a mid-span support, like a 2x4 extending from the 2x4’s up to the roof joists. If the roof joists don’t align with the 2x4’s below, you can add a 2x4 strongback the length of the garage. This will give you an allowable live load of about 24 lbs. per square foot and a dead load of about 4 lbs. per square foot, (joists at 16” o.c. and gypsum board on bottom),depending on the species and grade.

If you don’t want to use a mid-span brace, you could use 2x8’s at 24” o.c.

(BTW, your drawing shows 16” BETWEEN joists and it should be ON CENTER. Oh, and the first joist from the wall should be 16” o.c. From face of wall to its center.)


NM clamp for cable fished into box My house has mostly AC/BX wiring.  I have added a light to an existing lighting circuit and pulled #12 Romex into an existing metal box. Problem is, this box has no 1/2" or standard size knockouts. It has only the smaller AC knockouts.  I need a snap-in cable clamp to properly ensure my non-metallic insulation doesn't get cut on the metla box opening.

I feel like this would be a nornal request but the folks at home Depot looked at me like I was speaking a different language.  I did find some 3/8" push-in cable clamps but they still looked to big.

Thanks!

After looking at the comments, the real problem isn't the knockout, it's a clamp that will work with access only to the inside of the box.

Luckily, this is a solved problem.  There are plastic push-in NM connectors made to install inside the box, such as the Raco Insider:

This will install in a standard 1/2" KO.

This is a very common problem, so connectors that will work with cables fished into boxes are available almost everywhere electrical supplies are sold.

Big box stores are basically self service, I am sure there are exceptions, but I wouldn't expect ANY technical expertise from the staff.  I've even seen egregious code violations in DIY videos on their official Youtube channels.


How can I prevent the receptacle in my yard from tripping the GFCI used to power my sprinklers? I have a GFCI in garage that protects one receptacle in the garage and one in the yard.
The GFCI receptacle itself feeds the sprinkler timer. The other receptacle in the garage is hardly used. The receptacle in the yard is used for a small water feature pump.

Occasionally, the pump trips the GFCI.  I am looking for a safe solution.  First I thought,
maybe I could change the yard receptacle with a GFCI (two GFCI in one line), but I read that is not a good idea. Any safe solution?

You can use multiple GFCI devices on a single circuit, you just cannot connect them inline with each other.  If your current wiring looks like this, where the yard receptacle is connected to the load side of the GFCI receptacle in the garage.

You can change the way the second receptacle is supplied, by connecting it in parallel with the existing GFCI receptacle. Then you can swap the receptacle in the yard, with a GFCI receptacle.

In this configuration, the GFCI in the garage will only trip if a ground-fault is detected in any device plugged in to it. While the GFCI in the yard will trip if any device plugged in to it, has a ground-fault.

If the GFCI protecting the circuit is a combination GFCI/circuit breaker, you'll have to swap it out for a regular circuit breaker.  Then you'll have to protect individual outlets appropriately, using other GFCI devices.


Need advice if this wiring is okay (adding outlet into a run) If I didn't live remotely and I could hire an electrician I would, but it's not an option where I live. So any help you can give, I really appreciate. Thank you. My existing wiring in my water closet has a light in the middle of a run, the wiring looks like this:

I have the need to add an outlet for a water filter (uses minimal power) Is it okay to drop in an outlet into the run, before or after the light? Example wiring scenarios:

or before the light:

I can't tell if you are in cable or conduit.   Cable is a stiff but flexible plastic jacket with several wires very tightly wrapped.  Conduit is plastic or metal pipe  with wires loosely added.

If you have an inline conduit, and you want to add a box, that is easily done.  However you have to pull out the wires before you begin.  When you put the wires back in, you will find they are too short for all you need to do, so you will need to either replace parts of the wire runs, or have the existing wire-run run right through your new box without stopping, then add an additional set of wires to the next box up or down.  I use this "run thru and follow it" technique when a box is getting crowded.  If your existing conduit is metal, stay in metal.

If you have cable, then you need to install 2 boxes, make good use of the existing cable run, and install new cable between the 2 boxes. Alternately you can replace all the cable between the new box and the next existing box down the line.

The reason for this in both cases is that you need to have considerable length of wire at the box.  You cannot "runt" it with an inch of slack on each wire and the wire nuts crammed into the back of the box.  What you want is 9-10" of length on each wire. The legal bare minimum is 6" past the end of the cable clamp or pipe, plus 3" beyond the wall surface, but the legal minimum is cramped to work in.


Sillcock Replacement I have a sillcock that I want to replace though I can not tell if it is threaded on or soldered. I have tried turning it but it will not budge. If it is soldered, will it be hard to un-solder and re-solder the new one on?

UPDATE (question):
How can I find out what length I need to by for my sillcock?

That sillcock appears to be soldered on to the water pipe. There should have been a female adapter soldered on to the water pipe and then the sillcock would just screw onto the water pipe. You've got a few options here:

1) Cut the water pipe, solder a female adapter on the water pipe and screw in a new sillcock.

2) Cut the water pipe and get a SharkBite sillcock and shove it onto the water pipe.

3)Unsolder the existing sillcock, clean up the water pipe and solder a new sillcock onto the water pipe.

I would be doing the first option as it makes future replacements easier.


Combining Air Conditioner with Air Purifier I have a small 5th floor flat, with high ceilings. The sash windows, which are tall, face south. There is a very busy road underneath the windows. Two rooms have these windows.

It's noticeable that I start coughing as soon as I get into the flat. And my girlfriend starts sneezing and getting a blocked-up nose. Obviously from the traffic pollution from outside.

Spring is about to start and soon it's also going to get pretty hot and uncomfortable, since the windows make it like a greenhouse.

What would be the best solution to tackle both the pollution and heat, bearing in mind that it's a small flat, and I don't think I'm allowed to mount any kind of unit on the outside of the flat.

Is there a joint aircon & purifier that I can connect with a hose, which is reasonably quiet? I'm willing to spend a bit to get a nice air environment.

Room 1: 365 X 365 X 365cm, 12 X 12 X 12 feet

Room 2: 365 X 190 X 365cm, 12 X 6 X 12 feet

                     Pollution and Heat

              │          │          │          │
              ▼          ▼          ▼          ▼

 ┌───□──────────□──□──────────□──┐┌───□──────────□───┐
 │     Window 1      Window 2    ││     Window 3     │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │              Room 1           ││      Room 2      │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 │                               ││                  │
 └───────────────────────────────┘└──────────────────┘

My wife is asthmatic and has strong allergic reactions to dust, mold and dust mites, so we deal with this very condition.

There are some 'portable' air conditioners that draw air from inside the room and cool it, while also cooling the room by blowing the heated air outside. These come with rudimentary filters, but also have the added benefit of creating a slightly negative pressure environment which can help remove allergens.

Additionally, because they are actively condensing some moisture from the room, it will additionally remove some pollutants. I know this is true anecdotally as I have to infrequently clean the condensing coils and filter regularly and they are often dark and extremely soiled.

This unit sits on the floor, and uses a plastic shroud (that must be fitted) to seal the exhaust out the window.

I believe this fits most of your requirements. Although I did not notice it at the time we purchased ours, I believe there are some models available with HEPA type filters also.


How can I remove a stump? I need to level a patch of ground in order to put in a shed, but there's a large stump right in the middle of where the shed will go.

Since I'm in a suburban setting, dynamite is out, fires are illegal, and I can't get a truck anywhere near the location.

Is there any way to easily remove the stump?  I've looked at renting something like a bobcat, but with delivery & pickup I'm looking at $500+.

Go to your local rental store and ask for a walk-behind stump grinder.  They are easy to use, cheap ($40-50 a day).  Get some instruction from the rental store.  This machine is self propelled and can get into small areas.  Grind out the stump to a few inches below ground grade, then build your shed right over it!!!!  Good Luck


Which pipe thread compound/dope options can be combined with PTFE tape? As I am shopping for pipe thread compound/dope I find there are some major categories that seem to have different use cases but I am not sure about all the pros and cons. Most discussions online lump all these products together as "pipe dope", but I am worried about the distinctions.

In particular, I have in front of me one compound that contains TFE, and one that contains oils and lithium and minerals which is labeled to avoid use on plastic pipes.

Will the TFE compound react negatively with PTFE tape? Will the no-plastics-allowed oil compound?

The Teflon in pipe dope paste advertised as containing Teflon is not in solution, but in the form of fine particles. There is nothing in any pipe dope which could dissolve Teflon


Oven Installation - Three prong outlet I am looking to replace my old double oven since it has stopped working. It was plugged into the wall via a three prong outlet that is located above the cutout for the ovens in the back of the cabinet above. When reading about installing ovens it appears the standard is for ovens to be hardwired.
Since my house is setup for a 3 prong cord, would I remove the hardwire wiring and then run the 3 prong cord through the conduit and connect it to the oven that way? Is there a way to remove the hardwire wiring? Since the only pictures I can find are just stock photos of the oven it's hard to visualize how this will work.
EDIT: I added a picture of the plug, the old oven was a Whirlpool RBD275PDB and the new oven is a GE JKD3000SNSS. The power requirements for the old oven vs new oven are below:
KW Rating at 208V: New - 5.4, Old - 6.0
KW Rating at 240V: New - 7.2, Old - 8.2
Circuit Amps: New - 30, Old - 40

Just an update and answer for anyone that comes across this looking for help. I turned off the breaker to the outlet, removed the outlet cover, removed the outlet hardware so there were just three wires (two hot, one ground). I added a junction box and wired the oven directly. As per the instructions with the oven, neutral and ground went to ground and one hot wire to each of the hot wires. Done and done, super simple.


What is this metal thing on my circuit breaker Just bought a condo and one of the breakers in it has this metal thingy on it. What is it? What is it for?

It is a lock out device. It is to be able to turn the breaker off and lock it, so that an electrician can work on the circuit without worrying about it being turned on. Code requires this if a local disconnect is not available for some circuits.


Honeywell thermostat issue I have a Honeywell thermostat with M-F schedule like so...

6:30 am (wake) - 70
6:45 am (leave) - 63
4:00 pm (return) - 70
9:00 pm (sleep) - 63

The Honeywell actually displays wake, leave, return, sleep when setting it. Now at 5am this morning, the target temperature was 70 degrees and it was heating the house!

Is this normal, is it trying to take 1 hour and 30 minutes to get to 70 degrees?  (This seems wrong...I don't want it to start heating until the wake time is hit TBH).
If that is wrong, is there a factory reset (as clearly this thing is way SCREWED up)?

Is this normal, is it trying to take 1 hour and 30 minutes to get to 70 degrees?

It depends. Let's back up and talk about what Honeywell likes to call "In Recovery".

When you set your thermostat up, the thermostat has to learn how fast your HVAC can change the temp. It does this during a natural cycle so you're not running your heater in Summer or vice versa. Once it knows about how long the process will take, it will then kick the HVAC in so that it reaches your desired temp at the time you set it for. In other words, when you set it to 70 by 6:30am, it's going to kick your heater in earlier to reach that temp by 6:30, not to start trying to change it at 6:30.

Now, 90 minutes for a 7 degree change sounds nuts but if it's stuck in learning mode it might be confused as to how long it takes. You might want to consult your manual (or call Honeywell) and see if there's something not correct there.


How to mount ceramic tiles in a wrought iron frame? I bought my wife some ceramic house numbers and a wrought iron frame for Christmas. I had assumed I could just pop the numbers into the frame, but that is not the case. The numbers are free floating, and do not fit into the frame snugly. There is about a quarter inch gap all the way around. Please see picture.

I thought about cutting a piece of wood to fit the wrought iron frame and adhering the tile to the wood, but as this will be outside I was concerned about wood rot and whether the tiles would adhere well.

I have never worked with tile. I also live in New England where this style of house numbering is never used. So I don't have a neighbor's I can inspect for ideas. I guess my specific questions would be:

Is it a good idea to adhere the tile to some sort of backing?
Should the backing be wood or something else?
What kind of adhesive can I use to stick the tile to the backing?

If you decide to glue it, I would consider using a silicone adhesive, as it will flex as the weather changes. An adhesive that is too rigid could cause issues.


How can I patch a large hole in a metal bathtub? My tub is rotting from the top and I'm not yet ready to replace it. Water collects along one of the short sides of the tub (not the end with the faucet, the opposite end) and that is rotting and now has a large hole.

How do I patch this hole?

What may have happened is the porcelain top coat has been compromised to the point that it exposed the cast iron metal to the water. It has oxidized so much it has disintegrated and left a hole. If you are adamant about repairing the tub for the short time until it is replaced the best repair would be with fiberglass cloth and resin. This is what is used in the boating world to repair holes in fiberglass hulls. Wire brush any loose material from the tub wall wipe surrounding area with a solvent like lacquer thinner to remove contaminants. Cut an over sized piece of fiberglass cloth so it covers an extra 2 inches beyond the repair area. Mix the resin as per label. Brush the tub surface to the cloth outline. Place cloth over repair and brush liberally with more resin making sure to saturate the cloth completely. Build up with more layers of cloth letting each layer cure first. May want to do this on the other side of the hole. Sand with progressively higher grits until it is smooth. Paint if desired to match existing color. 2 part epoxy would also make a strong repair material.


Testing for insulation for asbestos? Should we be worried about asbestos with this loose-fill insulation? New England house from the 1860s. No idea when the insulation was added but the attic space is extremely difficult to access.

Yes, you should get it tested.

There is absolutely no way of knowing by looking at it and this home is old enough to have used building products from before the dangers of asbestos were known.


How can I determine if the mildew on the bathroom ceiling comes from the upper floor? I live in a flat on the second floor. The building in which I live is
five levels high.
How do I find out if the mildew on the bathroom ceiling comes from
the upper floor? I removed the mildew just a few months ago, but it suddenly
reappeared. Apparently there aren't any broken pipes, but we are not sure.
Any ideas?

Is the mold concentrated is a small area or cover most of the ceiling? Do you notice water condensation on any surfaces after using the shower? If the morror fogs or the tiles feel wet  your shower is the most likely cause. If it were from a leak upstairs you should see ceiling discoloration in an area ajacent to the leak. If your bathroom has a vent fan or window use it. Leave the door open to allow air to circulate after showering. If you can paint the ceiling with bathroom specific paint as it contains a mildewcide. The fix is to control the moisture so that the mold can't start.


How do I know what light bulb size I should get for a socket? The socket is smaller than the average socket There is a light bulb socket which is much smaller than a regular light bulb socket, so I think I need some sort of specialty light bulb.
How do I know what size to get?

The two most common screw type bulbs in the US are the standard Edison 1" base now normally described by it's international metric standardization as an E26 and the 1/2" E12 candelabra base.
There is also an "Intermediate" socket, an E17 that is mostly used in appliances, and an E11 minicandelabra that is almost always a halogen lamp.
A picture would help.


Can I use an insulated ground wire in a sub-panel? I'm running a new sub-panel to my basement (the main panel is in the garage). I bought a 500' spool of 6 AWG THHN. The distance to the sub-panel is about 110' so I cut the spool into 4 x 125' lengths. I was planning on using one of the THHN cables as the ground. I just wanted to confirm that it would not be an issue running an insulated wire as the ground. I don't see why it would be a problem but just wanted to double check.

And as a follow-up, I saw one place that if you are using 6 AWG or larger you must use different colored cables. The spool I purchased is all black and I color coded each cable every couple of feet with colored tape. Is that going to be a problem or is that more of a inspector-by-inspector issue?

You have it backwards the larger sizes are allowed to be re identified not the smaller sizes. 6awg and smaller need to have the proper color insulation 250.119.A . The ground is allowed to be solid, stranded insulated or bare. But if insulated 4 and above can be reidentified at the terminations and splices.


Changing a 2way & a 1 way AU light switch to a smart light switch I have purchased a 1 gang and a 2 gang smart switch with the back as thi 1st picture.  The attached are the existing wiring points.  Currently the single and 1 of the 2 gang operates the hall and the 2nd of the 2 gang operates the porch.
How to I wire them up?[]

OK, that looks like a typical Australian switch setup.
You have 4 cables:

two of them are power

one is power in
the other power out going places unknown
these two are the cables the connect to the short red cable that goes between the two switches.

then you have a cable with three wires that goes to one lamp

a cable with 4 wires that goes to the other switch of the 2-way,

and from there another wire that goes onward to the hallway light.

Unfortunately it doesn't look like the switches you have make provision for multi-way switching, or if they do it's on another page of the instructions.


How do I air-seal a range hood flute? My new kitchen included a new exterior flute for a new range hood.

Few months later, I opened the cover for some maintanace reason and saw that the flexible flute is basically going through the ceiling via a hole cut into the ceiling.

The circular hole has about 1-2" space around the pipe... see picture.

How do I air-tight this? seems like all my house heating can just fly up into the attic this way...

I thought to use expanding foam, but not sure if that is the "right" way, also, if I do, can I use the cheap stuff or do I need the "fire" rated one? any ideas? pictures are most welcomed if you have something to show me...

Great Stuff makes a fireblock sealant that is minimal expanding. It's actually specifically designed for penetrations between floors and through fire walls (required in commercial situations, but works equally well here).


flattening exterior concrete landing I'd like to tile my exterior concrete covered entryway landing. It's about 8'x 10'. The sides are level, but there's sort of a trough up the middle, worst case about 1/4" from flat. There is about 1/8" slope per foot too, for water. The concrete is over 50 years old and there are no cracks, so it's extremely stable.

Is there someway that I could screed material over the middle into the "trough" to make this flat? If there was no slope, I would use a self-leveling mix, but that's not the case. I've thought about grinding down the sides, but it's a bit messy and seems labor intensive.

I'm considering using tile that is about 15" to 18" square.

Any suggestions appreciated! thx

Yes you can screed material over the middle.  I think that your question is the answer.  That's what I'd do.  Thin set will work, you could even do it at the same time as you are laying the tile.

Just a word of caution here, make sure you aren't using really smooth tiles that could become a hazard when they get wet since its outside.


How can I seal a gap between floor joist boxes and foundation? I have an unfinished basement that always has tons of beetles, spiders and cold air (yes I know most basements have this, but it is more than normal). I finally decided to take a piece of insulation out that sits on top of the foundation between the floor joists and there is a gap between the top plate and floor joists where you can see light getting into the house and a substantial amount of cold air coming in.
Is there any reason I can't fill this gap with something? Also would you guys use expandable insulating foam or something different. Blow are pictures for reference.

This is a perfect scenario for spray foam, which both seals against airflow and adds insulation value. Pick up a couple cans and seal all such joints, then overlay fiberglass batts that match or exceed your wall insulation thickness.
Be aware that the standard foam swells to many times its initial size. Use small beads and try to force it into the void rather than just covering the surface. Also be aware that urethane does not come off clothing, skin, and almost anything else. Wear gloves and old clothes, and cover any surfaces or objects you need to protect, including outside the gap. Leave any bulge alone to cure, then tear or cut it off. Wiping it usually makes a mess.
You might also use a silicone or paintable latex caulk on the outside face of that gap, though. I do wonder when there's no exterior covering at that point. Does the wall sheathing not extend onto the sill plate?


2 way 2 gang switch wiring I am replacing a light switch that contains two modules ie two gang two way and each module is labelled “Common, L1 & L2” and works perfectly this way and with the other switch.   All have one or two wires in each connector.

However the replacement is a single module labelled “L11, L1, L12, L21, L2 & L22”.  I am completely fixed and tried numerous combinations.

So my question is on the new module if I take the old module as a and second as b and new as c where does a-common go in c etc

Help

I can only see L1 and L2 labels, so L1 will be Switch A and L2 will be Switch B. The terminal at one end is the common, and the two at the other end are the changeover/travellers.

It should be basically the same layout, but rotate one of your existing switches through 180 degrees. I.e. your existing switch has both commons at the top, but the new switch has a common at the top and a common at the bottom.

These are coloured lines only, not wiring colours.


Best Practices for Measuring Screw/Bolt TPI? It is extremely nice to be able to use a caliper to measure screw/bolt major diameter (and length) to find correct replacements.  However I am struggling to come up with a good way to determine accurate threads per inch (TPI; eyeball counts are difficult for me to get right, especially for smaller screws/etc).
What would folks here recommend for accurately determining TPI? I would prefer something other than prebuilt thread gauges, which based on my research are relatively expensive, dedicated-use, and of surprisingly variant build quality/accuracy (e.g., folks have complained about such gauges not being tapped correctly!!!).  Thanks for any advice.

A thread gauge is not tapped. A tapped gauge is attempting to show both size and threading, and can be limited by being too thin to correctly discern close metric/inch threads, for instance.
A thread gauge lets you worry about size, while it concentrates on accurately determining threading. Of course, you need to buy one that's not a hunk of poorly made junk...
You might "prefer something else" but your title asked for best practices. This is a problem with a tool that solves it; that is the best practice.


replacing 62 year old 3 way switches I have replaced both my 3 way switches but only one works correctly. I was told by the local hardware store that you wire each switch the same. red and black on top on the brass screws. and the white one on the black screw only the 1st switch works correctly. if I try to turn the light on from the other switch it won't work without the other switch on. if I have both switches off, the 2nd switch won't work at all. also there doesn't seem to be a ground wire for these switches

Well that is close but today the common screw is one color and the other travelers are the same but different color. The store's advice can be right but I have also run into this on switches that were not labeled or color coded. The good thing is it won't hurt anything if the 3 wires are mixed up. If they don't work correctly you can try moving the wires to different screws 2 at a time only a few trys at worst case and it will work correctly I have had to do this for friends that messed up switches and over for dinner was asked for help with no meters or testers and just a screwdriver.


Garage Sensors Work Separately but Not Together? Genie Intellicode IS Series, it had a previous owner.

Sensors mounted in garage but not electrically connected (door closed by holding down button).

Attached the sensors to the opener. The indication lights were completely off, nothing... so decided to get new sensors and re-do the wiring.

Next, bought new Genie Safe-T-Beam Replacement Kit sensors and did new wiring.

For the wires, I took the same wire position from each sensor and twisted them together at the very end where connected to the openers electrical ports #3 and #4 (Figure 3-5 B in Genie manual link above).

When connected, one sensor will blink red - the other sensor completely off.

According to Lester's Trouble Shooting Guide (fyi word file):

If,

  Sensor 1: Red LED light: 2 blinks, pause (repeat)

  Sensor 2 Green LED Light: OFF

  Wire to sensor missing or bad

However, if I connect only Sensor 2 to the openers ports (and not Sensor 1) the green light will come on.

So this tells me the wiring to that sensor is working.

Why would the sensors not work when connected in pair?

Any help is appreciated.

The blinking red light on the sender would indicate that they are mis-aligned. The best way to test this is to remove them from the mounting brackets and hold them a couple of inches apart with the sensors aligned. Have somebody hit the door closer, then point them away from each other.  If they work as expected that way, you'll just have to fiddle around with the mounts until you have them correctly aligned.


What should I do if a new cabinet is smaller than the old one? I want to change my bathroom cabinets, but need ideas for floor. If I leave the same tile and the new cabinet footprint doesn't match the old, then there will be a portion of the floor exposed with no tile.  What can I do to fill the gap?

Some generic pieces of advice here:

Buy cabinets with a bigger footprint.
If a smaller footprint it can work out if there is an equal distance around the bottom.  You can lay down mosaics to make a border.  It really depends and we would need to see a picture for more help.
Anytime you tile a bathroom, tile the whole thing.  Cabinets should sit on the tile.


How can I get my third floor radiators working? I have two radiators upstairs.  One is slightly warm, and the other is not warm at all, leaving the room very cold.  When I tried to bleed the radiators in the house, all of them released water and are working fine except the upstairs ones.  With the two upstairs radiators only air came out.  At this point, I need the one that isn't releasing heat at all to at least release some. I do not have money to have someone come look at it, and I don't know what to do.  The radiator that isn't working at all is currently turned off, because I read somewhere to do that to allow it to build up water pressure.  Please help! Single house mother needs help.

No need to panic, it's probably pretty simple. It sounds like your system is full of air and just needs to be bled. You've probably bled all the pressure out of the system, so you'll need to re-pressurize it, then bleed the radiators again, then pressurize again, bleed again, until all the air is gone.

Look at your boiler, there should be a pressure gauge on it. It should have a green arc, and maybe a yellow ark before having a red ark. Most likely green will go up to 2 bar(29 psi). Right now the needle is probably on the low end of the scale.

You'll need to find your pressurization valve, and open it until you get some pressure. The pressurization valve is between your home's water supply and the boiler, all you need to do is open it until you get about 1.2 to 1.5 bar and then close it. If you cannot find the valve see if you can find the manual, or just ask a neighbor who seems handy. It's very simple and you shouldn't need to pay anyone to do it.

Be careful not to over-pressurize the system, turn off the pressurization valve before the needle goes into the red.


Installing bathroom in basement starting plans for a raised bathroom in my basement . I have ben looking on Google. YouTube etc. To figure out how to plumb the bathroom. Since I will not be breaking out concrete. How would I attach the new drain for shower sink and toilet to this existing cast iron line . Thanks

Check out Saniflo up flush toilets; they're great for basements above/below grade. You can have a sink/shower/toilet that all drains to a pump/macerator unit either behind the toilet or in the vanity cabinet. Outlet pipes are usually 3/4" or 1" PVC that can be pumped up as high as 20 ft in order to reach most of your smaller drain lines, which are usually easier to tie into from the PVC pipe. No need to raise the bathroom.


Support for Tile floor I have 2x8 (7.25x1.5) what appear to be doug fur or southern pine floor joists on 16" centers in a finished basement. I want to tile a master bath on the main floor. Joists span exactly 11' 4" from the concrete foundation to a steel center beam. Is that span too much?

If I use this calculator: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl

I get 11.5 foot = not good for tile.
11 feet = good for tile.

House was built in 1962. My joists are in good condition, but subfloor is shot and will be replaced (had some leaky upstairs bathrooms.) However, the cross bridging is non-existent (should I add this?) And, in one joist someone cut a 1x3" notch out of the top for plumbing.

Can these joists / spans support ceramic tile? And, how large of a soaker tub will they support (soaker tub will be placed near outside wall/foundation).

I'm not sure if laminating a sister to each beam would count as three inches (I don't see why not if done properly, for at least as far as deflection is concerned; load calculation I have no idea), then it would be 3 x 7.75, and according to your link (L/673) that's OK for tile.

12 feet of 2x8 is pushing it, for sure. Sister each beam and install blocking.

My answer here, provides what insight I have for laminating beams; e.g., nailing schedules.


Installing an Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA Type-2 surge protector I have a 200 amp Siemens breaker box and want to install an Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA Type-2 surge protector.  The instructions say to use either a dedicated 2-pole 15 amp or 50 amp breaker.  Wanting the full ratings of the device, I planned on getting the 50 amp breaker.
However, I happen to have a 2-pole 60 amp breaker and am wondering if I can use this instead of the 50 amp?  It's not that much money to buy a 50 amp, but I already have the 60 amp...
[Note: The 60-amp came out of this breaker box about a year ago when I moved into the house and the inspection noted that a 60 amp breaker was being used on a circuit with a wire thickness of 8 ga.  So I replaced the 60 amp with a proper 40 amp.  This circuit is for the AC compressor which only pulls 27 amps and requires a max 40 amp breaker.  So all is good!]
A second question.  Where I plan on putting the surge protector breaker is in the top left slot.  Right now there is a 2-pole 30 amp breaker there that is unused since I moved my oven in a kitchen remodel and its now gas.  The unused wired is capped off inside a box above the of the kitchen cabinets and marked as to what the wires are and why.  So now what is the best way to handle the other end of the wire inside the breaker box?  I see two options:

Disconnect the hots from the breaker, wire nut, tape and tuck into a corner out of the way
Disconnect hots, ground, neutral and pull all the wire out of the breaker box

My thoughts are it is better to do #2, but I don't really want to play around pulling the wires out of the top of the box where the main feeds are coming into the box and will be live.  So my question is if its good enough to just do #1 as that will be safer for me.  I think it is to code to just leave the dead wires in the box and maybe make a note of what they are, but not sure about that.  Any thoughts?

You'll need to use the 50A breaker, and you can cap off the spare hots in the panel
The bad news (not that bad) is that in order to meet the listing and installation requirements of the CHSPT2ULTRA, you're limited to a maximum of a 50A breaker for it.  (You can install it on lower-rated breakers, but they might trip during severe surge events, taking the surge suppressor out of the picture.)
As to the spare wires, simply capping the unused hots off with wirenuts and tucking them into an out-of-the-way corner of the panel is the best approach.  That way, they are terminated in a place that someone who wants to use them later can actually find them, as opposed to having to go on a scavenger hunt for the loose end, and you don't need to stuff an extra junction box in by the panel for the termination either.


How do I wire my old 3/4hp 115-120v 50-60Hz HVAC motor to make an exhaust fan? My old HVAC blower motor has the following wires and I would like to know how to wire them to a typical 110v plug for use as a garage exhaust fan.
yellow (N)
black (L)
yellow/green (ground)
black (M1)
blue (M2)
orange (M3)
white (M4)
gray (M5)
brown (com)
There wasn't a capacitor on the furnace blower motor assy, but there was a 24vac transformer.  Any help with this project is appreciated.

As it sounds like it's an electronically commutated motor (ECM).  My advice is to grab the control board, blower, and transformer out of the furnace. Then connect everything up as it was in the furnace.  You should then be able to use the R and G thermostat terminals, to turn the fan on and off.

You will have to bypass any limit circuits on the board, but it shouldn't matter since you're only using the blower.


Can I use an existing Ground Rod for Sub-Panel in Detached Garage (Meter box is using the rod currently) Two buildings: Home and Detached Garage (circa '04 US). Service comes in through a Meter on the Garage to a PVC conduit into the Main box in the home (Single phase 240V with Neutral). In the main box Neutral and GND are bonded and bare ground wire coil heads out somewhere towards the front of the house, presumably to a ground rod.
There is an additional PVC conduit from the main panel back to the garage with 2 Hot, Neutral, and Ground that is used as two 120V runs (opposite phase), one for lights one for outlets and no sub-panel.
I'm planning on putting a 240V outlet in the garage and increasing the conductor side for 50A service. I will replace the two 120V breakers in the main panel with a 240V breaker and pull new wire (6ga x3 and 10ga Gnd) to a new sub-panel. From the sub-panel I'll wire back in the lights/outlets and the new service. Ground and Neutral will not be bonded and I know I need at least one grounding rod on this panel.
So finally I get to my question: There is an existing grounding rod that is being used by the Meter and apparently nothing else. Can I just add a new ground rod clamp to use with the sub-panel? Any code I'm violating?

You must tie to the existing grounding rod...
Since there's a rod present there already, you must tie your new subpanel's grounding electrode conductor to it, as per NEC 250.50 and the reference to Part III of Article 250 in NEC 250.30(A).
...and may be required to drive a second
If your existing rod is judged not to meet the 25ohm standard in NEC 250.53(A)(2), or if the AHJ wishes it, you may need to drive a second grounding rod 6-8' away (or more, if you wish) from the first.
You can either tie to the existing grounding electrode conductor with a 6AWG copper wire and an appropriate tap connector, or simply run the new rod's grounding electrode conductor back to the grounding bar on the subpanel, though.


What is causing a motor to trip my GCFI on every OTHER start? I am experiencing a very strange, intractable ground fault issue. I have a bandsaw that runs on a GCFI/ACFI-protected branch. It has a standard capacitor-start induction motor. Every OTHER time I start the motor, it causes a ground fault, like clockwork (NB: not an arc fault.) I will turn it on, it trips, I reset the breaker, turn it on again, it runs, turn it off and on again, it trips, ad infinitum. It's an old motor, and the wiring is a recent installation. I have another squirrel cage motor on the same branch for a drill press, and it never causes a trip. What on earth could be causing this ground fault on every OTHER motor start?
Edits to address comments: I know it's not an arc fault because the breaker has lights that indicate whether it's an arc or a ground fault or an overload fault that tripped the breaker. It's definitely a ground fault. I haven't tried it on other GFCI branches because it would be a pain in the but to get the saw over there, but I will look into doing so. It does not trip a non-gfci breaker.
The idea that it might be time running, and not the fact of starting it twice is an interesting idea mentioned in the comments. But I don't think that this is the case because I can run the saw for 20 minutes, turn it off, turn it back on again, and have a trip.

Well, it's not so much every other time as it is every second time.  This suggests that something inside, be it a cap or something else, is storing charge  which back-EMFs the second time you start it up.  Then the breaker trips, everything dumps, and you start clean.
If you can, see if you can :

run the machine, then turn off
use a grounding stick to discharge the cap
turn on again

I know from my days messing with CRT televisions that caps can hold charge for days.


Would triple pane give me better results than double pane in a key location (bathroom)? I am ordering replacement windows.  I'm going to go with double-hung in the bedrooms and bathroom, and casement above the kitchen sink.  Double-hung vinyl with added foam insulation in the frames.

But in the bathroom I want the best protection from heat loss I can possibly get, because the toilet is inches away from the window and that's not a place one wants to feel chilly.

Would going up to triple pane in that location help?  Is there anything else that would help, in terms of either the order of the custom window, or the installation method, or anything else you can think of?  I am in upstate NY.

A triple-pane is not necessarily a better insulator than a double-pane.  You need to check the specific ratings of the windows you are considering.

In general, yes, you would expect triple to outperform double but that cannot be applied to all windows.


Should I fill eroded mortar in exterior brick? There's a few bricks around my house about 40cm up from ground level where the vertical mortar between the bricks has completely fallen out / eroded away.

In a few spots, there's insects going into it and making a home.

I think I should fill it in, but I'm not sure of the best way to do it.

Mix up some mortar? Just use caulking?

I'm in SWO, Canada, so whatever I do has to be weather resilient.

Is it the bottom row of bricks, and are they regularly spaced? (I guess that's only possible if your foundation comes up 40cm.)  Because if that's the case, they're weep holes, and shouldn't be filled in. Otherwise, I'd go with @Tester101's answer.


How can I replace a lamp post The lamp post at the corner of my driveway is perforated with rust. It appears to have come in two pieces as the top half is slightly smaller than the bottom and there is what looks like a reducing fitting at the midpoint. Other than that, it looks like most ~3" straight posts I've seen.

I dug down a bit and it seems like there's cement around the bottom of the post as if it was installed following http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1531708,00.html.  I don't want to have to take out the whole footing.

It seems that with something like http://www.lightingdirect.com/kichler-9510-72-cast-aluminum-post-with-concrete-hardware/p1222544 I could dig out around the existing post, put sonotube in the hole, fill that with concrete, cut the old post off at the top of the concrete, and bolt the new post down.  Does make sense or am I missing something?

your approach should be fine, just make sure you get a good bond between the new concrete and the old otherwise it may spall.  just make sure your electrical line is in good shape.  otherwise you may go to all that work for naught.


How to straighten a curved/crooked brick wall? So yesterday I was trying to put up a frame using 3M command strips and they kept on coming off because only half the strip was actually touching the wall. Then I realised the whole wall was actually curved, the deepest part of the curve being around 1cm in.

I've been looking at videos at existing threads but everything seems to be for drywall something or other. I live in an apartment, so the wall is solid brick + plaster. What would be the best way to go about straightening the wall?

If your objective is to provide enough of a flat surface for an adhesive strip to hang something, I'd try taking a 120 grit sand paper, scuffing the small region where the plaster is and applying a little spackle with a small putty knife, probably nothing over 3", just wide enough to cover the area where the strip covers. There's a fine art to applying mud or paste and leveling it, so if you're not experienced, you can practice a bit. Spackle comes in small containers and has glue in it, and that should do a pretty good job of adhering to the plaster. If the curvature is minor, you shouldn't have to worry much about shrinkage. You can take a hairdryer on a low setting to expedite the process. Once it's hardened, voila, you should have a level surface with some texture that the entire adhesive strip will bind too. If the plaster has been painted a color other than white, it will be unsightly, but if the goal is to suspend a frame, the frame should conceal it. When you move out, it wouldn't be anything to take some 15-minute dry mud and conceal and sand the whole thing down and match the paint, so you're not really damaging the wall in any manner. The only other choice that comes to mind is using a concrete screw like a tapcon or something more extreme like an expansion-type anchor bolt, and both techniques involve using a masonry bit and boring into the brick.


Is it safe to install a three pronged cable into a four pronged dryer? I just moved into an old home that has a three pronged wall jack as shown below:

I have a newer dryer that has a four pronged cable.  Please see the back of the dryer, I've removed the four pronged cable.

Question

I bought a new three pronged cable from home depot. Can I put that cable into this dryer and simple connect it to the wall? Is that safe? Will it work? If so, what do I do about the spot for the grounding wire?
I would love to see a video/image of this being done.

In the past I've replaced a three pronged cable with a four pronged cable in a dryer and successfully connected it. But this time I'm trying to do the reverse..

I've fixed and already washed one round of clothes. Hopefully all is well :)

What you are doing is done all the time, and there is no problem with it, if done properly.   The fact is these 3 prong receptacles still exists in many older homes, and there is no requirement to upgrade an entire circuit simply to plug in a device. If you go out and purchase a new electric dryer, the seller will ask if you have a 3 or 4 prong receptacle. They will then sell you the appropriate cord, based on your answer (if you don't know, they'll probably sell you both and tell you to return the one you don't need, or offer their instillation services).
RTFM
If you check the manufacturers installation instructions, there should be a procedure for connecting the dryer to a 3 prong receptacle. The procedure can very from manufacturer to manufacturer, so make sure you check the documentation for your specific dryer.
From a random whirlpool manual:

This dryer is manufactured ready to install with a 3-wire  electrical
supply connection. The neutral ground conductor  is permanently
connected to the neutral conductor (white  wire) within the dryer. If
the dryer is installed with a 4-wire  electrical supply connection,
the neutral ground conductor  must be removed from the external ground
connector (green  screw), and secured under the neutral terminal
(center or  white wire) of the terminal block. When the neutral ground
conductor is secured under the neutral terminal (center or  white
wire) of the terminal block, the dryer cabinet is isolated from the
neutral conductor.

Click for larger view

Click for larger view


Why won't my security lights turn off after I upgraded to LED bulbs? I replaced old halogen lights with new LED bulbs. Now they seem to stay on a little.  They look dim, like a very low wattage bulb.  Is that normal?  Or do I need to change the sensor/switch?  It only has one switch, which turns all the lights on and off.

This is common with older security sensors. (The sensor needs a small amount of power to function.  To avoid wiring a neutral wire, they are wired in series with the bulbs, and power themselves by leaking a small amount of current through the bulbs - halogen bulbs don't mind this.)

The simplest solution is to replace just one of the bulbs with incandescent or halogen.  it can be of a lower wattage. The rest of the lights can remain LED.

The harder option is to replace the sensor/switch with a modern type, however this will require a neutral wire at the switch. (In this situation, the sensor gets its own power from hot+neutral, and does not need to leak any power through the bulbs.) This will save between $2 and $7 per year by using less power.


Can the socket in my recessed light be replaced without replacing the entire framing kit? I have recessed lighting in my living room.  One of the bulbs went out.  I tried replacing it with a fresh one, but no luck.  There is electricity flowing to the socket, but the socket appears to have gone bad.

I bought a replacement socket at Home Depot, but upon disassembling the light, I realized that I might not be able to replace the socket alone.

I have a Lightolier Lytecaster 1102 Frame-In-Kit.  Details here:

http://www.lightolier.com/MKACatpdfs/1102D1.PDF

http://www.lightolier.com/MKACatinstr/IS_1102.PDF

It doesn't look like the socket can be removed from the porcelain socket housing.  Does this mean I have to replace the entire framing kit?  I tried calling Lightolier support, but so far I've only gotten an answering machine.

Here are photos of the enclosure:

And how the socket is fastened:

SOLVED: See Dan's answer below. I don't know how I missed it, but inside the socket there are screws.  The socket is not riveted to the enclosure.  Alas, I did have to buy the whole Frame-in-Kit to get the correct socket, but at least I didn't have to remove the entire frame from the ceiling.  I just unscrewed the socket and screwed in the new one.

Good question. Yes, it's likely that you have to replace everything. This is one of the downsides of recessed lighting... most of the time the wires from the service tie-in are contained inside a housing or inside of a conduit. It's not weird at all to have it be like that... there are very few can light fixtures where this is not the case (due to fire concerns).

Can you access the fixture from above? If so, it's easy to remove. It's a little more complicated if there's no attic access to the fixture --- although there should be, because that fixture does not seem to be suited for insulated cavities. If that fixture has insulation touching it, you want to replace it (and all your others where they touch insulation) regardless of condition with an IC-rated fixture.