Capped off outlets and light switch wiring, now no power to half the house I am in the process of removing a wall from my home separating the kitchen and dining room. To do this, I needed to remove the wiring from the wall.
Steps I took:
Shut breakers off to kitchen lights, kitchen outlets, and dining room outlet on same wall. This was 3 breakers total, shutting off power to half the house including some rooms and the garage.

I then removed wiring from all outlets and light switches, so that I could remove wall studs. After removing studs, I capped all wires with wire nuts, stripping them back, etc. 3 wire nuts for each electrical cable.

I then flipped all 3 breakers back on to get some light in the other areas of the house, and no power. I used my non-contact voltage tester and none of the outlets attached to the other breakers are functioning. Only 2 of the 6 cables I capped off have any current with breakers on as well. Garage has no power, etc. Only devices not on one of those 3 breakers have power.

I do have an electrician coming out next week to move a couple light switches as they will need rewired, but can someone give me some ideas as to how I can get the power to the rest of my house back? There are no GFCI outlets in the kitchen. Bathroom has a GFCI outlet, which I have tried resetting, but still no power.

I would feel somewhat more comfortable if you had found three hot cables, and each cablewas turned off by a different breaker.  As things are now, you have not, and you must be careful that you do not accidentally connect two breakers nose to nose, feeding power in one breaker and out another.  That will either create a loud flash-bang, or seem to work but then create a lurking safety hazard that can start a fire.

I would expect that one of your four "dead" ones is in fact live, and something has gone wrong with your testing method.

I am fond of dollar store nightlights and cheapie extension cords.  I cut off the plug (part with the blades) and throw it in the trash.   Then, I take the rest of the cord and split the wires and strip each wire 3/4".   Then I wire-nut it onto a hot and neutral I aim to test, and plug in a nightlight or a radio, then see if I can energize the circuit.

Anyway, 3 breakers, 6 cables, makes sense.  3 of them would be supply side from the breaker (possibly stopping at intermediate points first) and 3 would be onward power from each of those circuits.   I would identify every one of your 3 supply lines, as best you can, using the extension cord trick rather than a non-contact tester.

Also for each of the 3 circuits, figure out what sockets or fixed loads each bris powering now.  The ultimate goal is to identify all  the loads connected to each of the six sections of cable.

Now, turn off all of the three breakers but one. Run a cable from the hot wire over to one of the 3?4? mystery sub-circuits.  Then search the house and find out which sockets or loads that circuit powers up.  Mark accordingly.

Once you have mapped them, there will probably be some logic to how they are wired and how to match them up.


I have a 1102 ic lightolier and the socket has gone bad It has a plug to the junction and a small bulb near  the socket. Cannot find replacement and want to know if the small bulb needs to be replaced? Or can it be eliminated? Will heat build up be a problem?

If by small bulb you might be talking about the thermal protection unit of the can.  Like you said heat will be a problem.  If corrected improperly then fire will be the worst case scenario.  If the socket has gone bad then you might be able to find a replacement.  But if the thermal unit (t/u) has gone bad, then that's another story.  Some manufacturers will not sell these separately because if you put them in the wrong product they will not function the way the original t/u was designed.   The only way to get the correct one is buy a complete can from a local supplier and change out the leads, thermal unit and socket, which means getting into the wiring compartment of the light.  You can always replace the can, but that's more work than needed.  Any doubt call a licensed electrician to do it.


Should I bond a water softener's in/out pipes? Our house was built in 1997.  The pipes are copper (including the city water supply pipe).  Some time after the house was built, the previous owners installed a water softener.  The softener parts are all plastic, so the city water supply is not part of the grounding path.

I dug up the installation manual for my softener (Kenmore Ultrasoft 100), and it says to bond the softener in/out pipes to provide a grounding path.  This has not been done.  It has been this way for ~10 years.

There is already a solid copper wire clamped to the cold water pipe that runs over to the breaker box.  (This wire is attached to the plumbing after the softener.)  Not sure the gauge of the wire.  Presumably this wire grounds the cold water pipes.  I would guess there is a grounding rod somewhere behind the breaker box, but I have not verified this.

Edit:  Because of this grounding wire, it seems most of the cold water plumbing is already grounded.  The only part that isn't bonded is the ~5ft of cold water pipe that comes into the basement before the softener.

I do believe my outlets are grounded because the "Ground" LEDs on all of my surge strips are lit.

Should I follow the softener manual's advice and bond the water softener in/out pipes?

If the breaker box is already grounded via a grounding rod, would this extra ground path hurt anything?  It seems like a good idea to have second path, in case something happens to the first one.

However, I am not sure about the difference in potential between the two ground points.  Could this cause a problem?  (For reference, the cold water supply line is ~50ft from the breaker box.)

Follow-up question:  Should I bond the hot water pipes to the cold water pipes?  There seems to be some conductivity between the hot/cold pipes already (checked with a multimeter), but I can't find an actual bonding wire anywhere, so I may just be seeing some incidental conductivity via the water heater or faucets.

It is important to understand the reason for grounding/bonding the water pipe system in a house.  The electrical service panel is typically grounded via an 8 ft or more ground rod at the meter and/or panel AS WELL AS via a bonding conductor to the metallic water source pipe. (Plastic feeds are not bonded.) The grounding wire is typically #4 copper.

The grounding of the water pipe is not necessary for the proper grounding of the electrical system if there is a separate earth ground supplied (ground rods, etc.), however it is necessary in order to assure an equal ground potential between the electrical system and metallic plumbing system.

The reason for having both the electrical and plumbing bonded at the same potential is to eliminate any possible voltage potential between the two when electrical appliances that contact water are used (electric water heaters, ice makers in fridge, garbage disposals, etc.), and to deal with any accidental contact of voltage to the water system. If this was not done, it may be possible for voltage to appear on the plumbing fixtures.

Regarding your first question about bonding the two sides of the water softening system, the recommended bonding is to assure the upside metallic system is at the same ground potential as the downside piping, for the reasons described above.


Is the fibrous material in this plaster coving asbestos? Started to remove some coving border under the main coving. Seems to have this yellow fibre mixed in with what I think is plaster.

Anyone know what it is? Is it safe to remove? Worried it could be something linked to asbestos. House was built in early 70s (UK). Did think it could be horse hair, but seems too yellow.

If it's traditional plaster, it's horse hair.  When horses were common transport, horsehair was cheap.  Like dogs, horses shed each year.  Stuff was used for cushions too.  More recently they are more likely to use fiberglass, or some form of plastic fiber.

Plant fibers could also be used.  Jute, sisal, flax (linen).


OK to nail into roof flashing? I am installing some security cameras and was wondering if it is OK to nail RG6 coax cable nail clips into the roof flashing to run the cables. I've attached pictures. Thanks for the help.

Roof flashing along the place where the roof joins the side wall is designed to keep water from leaking into the underlying roof and wall. You do not want to be nailing, stapling or drilling holes in the flashing because it invites many leaks to start.

Find another way to run your cables. Inside under the roof, under the eves of the roof overhang etc. This will be a good thing too. The coax cable jackets will be much better off if they can be largely shielded from the sun.


Does landscape fabric (filter fabric) get clogged? If not, why not? I have a drainage problem to solve and I'm considering a French drain.  I have read in dozens of places that various drainage systems (including French drains) are usually lined or wrapped in a landscape fabric/filter fabric to prevent sediment from getting in an clogging up the drain.  But nobody seems to ask or answer the next logical question: what prevents the sediment from clogging up the fabric instead?  Aren't you just pushing the problem up one level?

Think about how a coffee filter works.  You have a paper filter clogged with wet coffee grounds.  The water slowly passes through the filter paper and you have a thin film of water between the filter and the funnel.  That film from the entire surface of the filter paper flows to the bottom of the funnel.  By the time it all aggregates and flows out of the funnel, you get a stream of fast-moving coffee.  That's what goes on with the filter fabric and the drain.

The drain channel is sized to move water at a certain rate.  There is typically a perforated pipe that offers unimpeded flow to the water once inside, so it is quickly carried away.  The water gets into it by traveling through big gaps between large stones, and some of it even travels through the stone gaps.

If the drain system is at the surface of the ground, much of the water will get there by flowing over the ground until it reaches the stones.  Some of it gets there by flowing through the soil; flowing much slower, through much smaller paths between dirt grains, over a much bigger area.  If the drain is completely buried, like around the footers of your house foundation, all of the water will get there by traveling through the soil.

The filter fabric is porous, and acts like a barrier to separate the soil from the drain.  It gets clogged with fine soil, but not really different from the soil the water is passing through to get there.

So you have a lot of water collecting in the soil over a very large area.  It moves slowly through the tiny gaps in the soil, but that's a lot of water moving slowly.  It passes through the fabric barrier at the perimeter of the drain system, which has a lot of surface area, and the aggregated water becomes the stream flowing through the channel.

If filter fabric is only placed around the drain pipe, the stone in the channel fills with silt until there isn't really a difference between the stone channel and the soil.  The water moving through the soil will find its way into the perforations in the pipe, but you're aggregating slow-moving water from a few small holes, so you only get a trickle through the pipe.


When is it appropriate to use push in connections on typical american electrical outlets? I quit using push in about 10 years ago when I realized it was causing issues when I had a few heaters plugged in at job sites.  My detective skills told me that 10 fried outlets over one winter and all 10 with the push-ins in use might be a clue to an issue.

So when can you use it?  And even more important why do manufacturers still produce them with that option (and if you want to take it a step further why does big box still sell them?) ?

See question Why do electricians prefer not to use the push-in connections on receptacles? for more background.

Code requires the wire to be 14 gauge copper when back-stabbed into a device.
People buy them because stores sell them and they're easy to install. Personally, I blame 14 AWG; I only run 12 with 20A breakers. What is a nuisance trip? ;)

What should I do with wires that are too large for back-stab terminals on a receptacles?


LED Light Glowing when off I have been searching the internet and StackExchange for a couple of weeks now and have not found anything that fixed the issue.
I recently added a room in my basement, all new wireing, lights, switches.
when i turn the breaker on to that room all of my led lights glow when the switch is off. when i turn the switch on the light come on as expected. i have read where people say this is due to the minimal current that is usually in your circuits when off, and they said to put a regular light bulb in one of the sockets and it will act as a resistor and dissipate the remaining current. i just tried that tonight and the leds still glow( all 4 lights)
Below is how they are currently wired for reference. Any help or ideas is appreciated.

LEDs need very little power (that is the point after all).  In fact, if you have a live cable running next to a cable feeding the light, then there can be enough inductive coupling between the cables to cause a glow.

The fact that you say "I tried to seperate the 'main line' as much from the lines feeding the lights and it seems to have worked for the most part." makes me think this is the explanation.


How do you install zinc strips in a roof without creating leaks? This article gives instructions for installing zinc strips at the ridgeline to inhibit moss.

This picture shows nails through the zinc strip:

It looks like they have nailed through the zinc in to the roof. Wouldn't that allow water through the roof?

(Posted for a friend. I don't actually have a roof. :-))

Nail them down, the same way your shingles are nailed down. That is, you nail down a course of shingles, then lay down the new course above the last course, working up the roof. This way the next course hides the nails holding down the previous one. At the ridge, before a ridge cap goes on, you also nail down the zinc strips, placed so they will protrude beyond the ridge cap. Finally, the ridge cap goes on. Enough of the zinc protrudes so that the metal gradually leaches out with every rain to impede moss accumulation.


filling in gaps in concrete patio I have several 2" wide by 6' long spaces between the original patio slab and the newer slab that was poured after original construction of the house. The porch is covered so no moisture is getting  inbut I need to fill/patch these gaps. I need some help.

You might want to try a gap filler like Sikaflex self leveling sealant.


How to disconnect a weird looking wire I'm renovating my Kitchen, and my stove is connected in such a way
that I'm not sure how to unplug, I added pictures that might explain it better.

I would like to either disconnect it, or make it longer.

p.s.
I live in Germany, if it matters.

Assuming it's anything like the US, you'll have a dedicated breaker for the stove in your electrical panel.  Shut it off first (really, it would be a good idea to do that before moving the stove for the renovation).  With the power turned off, you can remove the wall plate (I don't see screws in your picture, so you may just have to pry it off) and/or remove any connectors or covers on the stove to find the connection.  Just double check that the power is shutoff before you go near this with a screw driver or bare hands.


How do I shut off hot and cold water in the house I want to replace a kitchen tap.

I know how to turn off my main cold water supply, but I don't know how to shut off the hot supply from the large hot water tank in the basement.

There is no valve coming out of the hot water tank.

Although there should be a shutoff under the kitchen sink and one at the hot water heater, turning off the cold water to the entire house will effectively shut off the hot water as well since the hot water heater is fed from the cold water.


Will my floating laminate flooring contract in winter enough to show the edges? I have an old laminate floor. In summer it always showed signs of buckling. Now I fixed it by installing an expansion gap of about 0.6 inch (15mm) against the wall. Now the buckling is gone. However I fear, that because its summer the laminate will retract beyond the skirting board - which is also only 15mm thick - when temperatures drop and the laminate begins contracting again.
I have done this the first time and did not read anything about the obvious fact that laminate flooring will have its maximum dilatation in summer when it is hot and humid. So for next time, must season be considered when installing an expansion joint?

You're correct that the flooring will be at its minimum dimension in winter, when temperatures are slightly lower and, more importantly, humidity is lower. Since you've essentially eliminated all overlap with your skirting, you can expect to see the edges of the floor in winter. Ideally you'd have left about half the gap you did. Most flooring I've installed calls for 1/4" (about 6mm).
The usual solution is to install "base shoe", a small molding designed for basically this purpose. It's often installed when flooring is laid between existing skirting. I would wait and see what movement you actually get and only take action if needed.


Replacing two bath fixtures on one switch I am replacing two light fixtures in bathroom, they are on one switch.  First one went in as planned, black to black, white to white.  The second one, closest to switch, however is not looking normal.  The wires came off the caps as I pulled old fixture off (screws were bent and force was required). I have two white wires twisted together, they appear to have black ink dots on them (hot perhaps?) and just a copper ground wire. There are also two black wires capped together and farther into box, I don't think these had a wire attached to them as only two caps were loose, and the black attached together wires were pretty far into box. Issue is, if the white twisted together wires with black marks are my hot power source, and I attach black fixture wire to these, what do I attach white neutral fixture wire to?

It sounds like you're not sure how this was wired up before, since the wire nuts came off when you pulled the fixture off.

There are a couple of different things that could be going on here.

You either have:

Power coming into the switch box, then going to the lights, with the switch cutting the hot wire to the lights (this is what I believe you have).
Power coming into one of the ceiling boxes with a "switch leg" running from one of the ceiling boxes to the switch box on the wall.

It looks to me as if you have power in the switch box, wired straight through the pictured ceiling box to the other ceiling box. Does the other ceiling box only 1 black, 1 white and 1 bare grounding wire in it?

If I'm right about the power coming into the switch box, then you want to:

Connect the black wire from your fixture to both black wires in the ceiling box.
Connect the white wire from your fixture to both white wires in the ceiling box.
Connect the ground wire from your fixture to both grounding wires in the ceiling box (there must be another one up inside the box, or they're pig-tailed into one wire) and connect the ground to the metal strap on that box, as well (the green ground screw). The metal parts on your fixture will be grounded when you screw the fixture to that metal strap to attach it to the ceiling.


Why do I run out of hot water after 5 min? I have a gas water heater and recently found that I do not get more than 5min of hot water.  Previously I would be able to take a half hour shower. I see no leaks around water heater.  It also seems that the water heater is always running.

What could be causing this?

More than likely what is happening is that there is an accumulation of rust and water deposit that formed on the bottom of the water heater tank and this is inhibiting the transfer of heat from the exchanger to the water.

There should be a drain on the bottom of your water heater that you should regularly drain the water from it.  This should be done every couple of years to prevent such problems.

Turn off your water heater temporarily, attach the end of a hose to the bottom drain and run the other end to a floor drain or nearby slop sink.  Open the drain valve to help try and flush a lot of that sediment out from the bottom.  Don't be alarmed if the water looks rusty or grainy, this is normal wear and tear for a water heater.

See if this helps and if not then it is probably time for a new water heater.


Is it safe to put a 120W equivalent LED bulb in a 100W max fixture? I bought a 15W led bulb which is the equivalent of a 120W incandescent. But, I can't find a cord grip ceiling bulb holder rated higher than 100W.
Is it safe to put the 120W equivalent bulb in a 100W ceiling socket?

Yes, that is fine
"like" /"equivalent", etc. are based on light output.
Limitations on fixtures is based on heat output.
Some power (Watts) becomes light, the rest becomes heat. LEDs are more efficient and produce more light, and therfore less heat, than incandescent bulbs. Fixtures are rated on worst case scenarios. But a 15 W LED bulb can only put out 15 W heat. No problem.
It may be that fixture power rating is based on efficiency and expected heat output of standard incandescent bulbs, rather than total power output. But that would make very little difference. A quick search finds incandescent efficiency in the range, at best, of 5% to 10%. If a 100W incandescent bulb is 10% efficient (very optimistic) then 90% of the power - 90W - is lost as heat. If the 15W LED produced entirely heat and no light at all (which wouldn't be too useful), it would only produce 15W of heat. No contest.
All that being said, there can be heat issues with LED lighting. Generally this is with new fixtures designed specifically for LEDs, not putting LEDs into standard Edison base fixtures. In fact, some high-power fixtures include fans to dissipate the excess heat. This is because (a) an LED can be extremely compact as there is no functional need for a large "globe" around a filament (when there is a "filament" in an LED bulb, that's just for show) and (b) the driver circuitry between the incoming AC power and the actual LEDs produces heat. This is also the reason why some LED bulbs will specify "don't use upside down" - heat rises and if the heat is all generated at the bottom of the bulb and you install it upside down so that the bottom (as designed) is at the top, heat may not dissipate properly.


Concrete foundation repair My home was built in 1914 (Portland, Oregon). In 1948, the house was moved 200 feet to its current location. The 750 square foot house has a concrete basement with a concrete floor. The concrete basement walls are approximate 7 feet tall.

A view from the inside of the basement shows the concrete was poured in layers. Some of these layers are crumbling. 1/2 to 1 inch aggregate is falling from the wall. Other layers are in great condition.

Interior and exterior "tapping" with a screwdriver reveal most of the the concrete is solid - even though the aggregate can be seen in some areas. Other areas sound hollow. This is where the aggregate will crumble from the wall.

The exterior has a skim coat, but half of it has fallen off, or is ready to fall. Again, other exterior section where the skim coat remains appear and sound solid.

Questions:

What is happening to the concrete?
How can this deterioration be stopped?
Does the concrete need to be replaced?
What type of trades person should look up to make the repairs?

Concrete will deteriorate over time depending on the mineral content of the soil that is in contact with the concrete. Removal of the entire pour is not required or recommended. This would be costly and time consuming. The areas that sound hollow will have to be removed. These areas act like a cancerous pocket and will harbor the moisture that is partly causing the deterioration.Steps to consider:

Remove all hollow sounding areas with a pneumatic chisel hammer. (small one would be better).
Retrofit some rebar into the areas removed into the good concrete and set with epoxy.
Reinforce your basement with new shotcrete concrete.

Note: you will be tying into your existing concrete with new rebar and epoxy. Then set some screte boards to the depth of the new shotcrete wall thickness. Then you will be ready to hire a contractor who will apply the shotcrete with a pumper. You might want to contact a structural engineer to confirm this course of action... Good luck.


What is some advantage and disadvantage to had 9-in W x 9-in L Stainless Steel Square Chimney Cap What is some advantage and disadvantage to had 9-in W x 9-in L Square Chimney Cap welding on top of the 18 in W X 18 in L Square Chimney Cap with a circular opening on the top side and then install to the top of the Chimney? I asked this because it seems to me the gas doesn't vent out too well.

Both square Chimney Cap is similar to the below picture.

Pros to capping are reduction of rain entering, prevents birds and squirls from nesting in chimney you can see when you need to have the chimney swept.
cons reduces draft , provides a place for cresode to accumulate ( further reducing draft and looks ugly when there is buildup) .
In some areas where builders cloth was required due to fire danger we installed wind driven directional caps to increase draft. I don't think the large holes in the photo will meet the requirement if needed for fire risk.
Now understanding there are 2 caps from OP comment, I think this will increase the area for draft and take longer for cresode to build up so this is probably a good idea. I can't see where it would hurt.


Is polyurethane too slippery to use as a protective layer on a deck? I am in the process of repainting my deck.  I'd like to have a protective layer (like clearcoat on a car) that will allow easier cleanup, and would help to pretect the new paint.  Is polyurethane appropriate for the job?

What you're looking for is Spar Urethane. Polyurethane is not good for outdoor use. Spar urethane will hold up the UV rays better.


Can a GFCI burn out a (ceiling fan) motor? I added a ceiling fan to an existing circuit with GFCI protection.  I know, I know, they say you shouldn't because the inductance from the motor can trip the GFCI.  I figured I'd risk that minor inconvenience rather than the major inconvenience of putting in a whole new circuit for one fan.

The fan worked fine for about 8 months.  Despite turning it on and off many times, it only tripped the GFCI twice, which never seemed to cause it any harm.

However, today I came home and the fan no longer works.  It makes a humming noise, but the fins don't spin.  I read online that it could be due to a burned capacitor (why does a fan need a capacitor?), in which case pushing fins by hand to get them spinning should work.  It doesn't.

So my question is:

Could the GFCI tripping as the fan started up cause the capacitor (or any other part of the fan) to burn out?
Do these symptoms point to any obvious cause?  Is it fixable?

From the perspective of a motor, a GFCI looks exactly the same as any other circuit breaker.  The only difference is that a GFCI has extra circuitry which senses an imbalance between the black and white wires (plus control circuitry to trip the breaker)—nothing more.

Many modern ceiling fans seem to be cheaply made.  I suspect the failure is a quality control issue or an intentional cost cutting measure of the manufacturer.  If it is still in warranty, get it replaced.


What should I consider when choosing a pocket door system? I am considering installing a few pocket doors in our “inner hallway”, these will be behind built-in bookshelf’s.   Ideally I wish to reuse our heaver weight 1930 doors, as they match the rest of the home.

There are a number of pocket door appraches. Usually is makes sense to buy a frame kit such as this one

There are many grades and sizes, some of which are meant for heavy doors. You do need to make sure that the thickness of your doors do not exceed the limits of the kits. If they do, you may be able to buy parts and create your own combination that will suit. Also, there are standard heights, which could be adjusted for (e.g., with bottom blocking) if your doors are especially tall.

There are other brands that may provide additional features, such as this one which has a color matched header insert, and this one which can be used in thicker walls , and perhaps with thicker doors.


End-line switches for new overhead lighting and new ceiling fan I have a home built in the 50's with no overhead lighting in the living room. I'm looking to add some wafer lights (6) and a ceiling fan.
I've determined the power pull won't overload the 20 amp breaker, and found a convenient location for switches. There is already a switch where i'm planning to add the two additional, installing a 3 gang box in place of the current single switch. The existing switch is for the chandelier in the dining room. Source power runs from the breaker box directly into that fixture, then down to the switch.

I'd like to tap into the source from the J Box above the chandelier, then run two 12/2 wires to (1)Wafer lights, then daisy-chain one to the next (2) new ceiling fan - then both will run wire back DOWN to the switch.

Is this end-line approach feasible and am I missing anything?

Since it's all on the same circuit, this works

Since the receptacle being fed from the switch box is on the same circuit as the light, we know that we have a neutral at the switch box already (a Code requirement now, see NEC 404.2(C) for details), so we don't have to worry about that with our new runs of wire from the ends of the light run down to the switch boxes, called switch loops by electricians.  You'll still want a length of 12/3 for the run from the fan down to the switch box though; this gives you the flexibility to have the ceiling fan and its light kit controlled by separate switches, or to use any ceiling fan controller you wish instead of being locked into one of only a few options.


Attach receptacle box to baseboard via screws through plaster ears? The plaster ears on old work metal receptacle boxes (see example) each have two holes on the face of them. Is it ok to put screws through these holes to secure the box to baseboard?

In this particular case, I'm replacing an old receptacle and box that's located on the baseboard. The hole for the receptacle box is sized such that the box itself fits through cleanly, but not the plaster ears, which lie flat against the baseboard. I can use a set of those thin metal switch box supports (see example), but it seems the easiest and most secure thing to do would be just to drive 4 screws through the holes in the plaster ears into the baseboard. Is that allowed?

Thanks for your help!

* Image added*
(note that I would snap the removable ears off the receptacle so that they don't block the holes on the receptacle box's plaster ears)

The holes in the plaster ears of the box will take screws very well. That is what usually holds the box in place when it is mounted in a cabinet.

To allow the cover plate to set well, you could use 4 gauge screws or a larger diameter and countersink the holes in the mounting ears a bit to help let the receptacle set tight to the face of the box. You would do well to break off the ears on the receptacle at the score lines to help clear the screw heads too.


Grounding with conduit and cast aluminum weatherproof box I'm currently rewiring my 100-year-old garage, in the USA. The existing wiring is very old and not up to any code.

My plan is to remove everything up to where the circuit enters the building. It's one circuit, 12 AWG, 3 wire + ground, buried UF cable from the house. That part seems fine.

I'm using 1/2 EMT conduit, 12 AWG solid wire, and all weatherproof, threaded connectors and diecast aluminum weatherproof boxes, with weatherproof covers and weather resistant GFCI outlets. I know this is probably overkill, but I wanted everything safe in case of any kind of leak, and also extra protection from "garage problems" like dust from my power tools.

So here is my question: generally, with all conduit and metal boxes, I believe you don't need to run a ground wire. The metal acts as the ground. I'd just need to attach the incoming ground from the UF to the first box. Does this hold true for the diecast weatherproof boxes too? Will the ground still be continuous with steel EMT connected to aluminum boxes? Or, do I need to run a ground wire through my entire circuit, attaching it to each switch and outlet?

EDIT Since the fittings seem to be a concern, I've added pictures of the hardware. Even reviewing the manufacturer's documentation, it seems ambiguous as to whether they are designed to work together. What I can say, is that the connector threads into the box very smoothly, by hand. If the threads didn't match, I would not expect that to happen.

One thing I did notice is that the box, and the threads in the box, are painted. I don't know if that would make a difference for grounding, but seems like it could impede conductivity.

Connector:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-EMT-1-2-in-Uninsulated-Raintight-Compression-Connector-50-Pack-2902RT/203637931

Box:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BELL-1-Gang-5-Outlets-1-2-in-Threaded-Weatherproof-Box-Gray-5323-0B/204208013

For what it's worth,  it also seems like Raco and Bell may be under the same parent company.

EDIT 2 I contacted Hubbell (manufacturer of both box and connector) regarding compatibility. They gave an impressively fast and knowledgeable response. Their product technician confirmed the box will work with both straight and tapered threads, and the two components can be used together. Furthermore, he stated that they would create a grounding path and have passed UL testing for such, but would (personally) run a ground wire anyway as it is more reliable. That's what I'll do.

I guess I should have just asked the manufacturer to start; I wasn't expecting such helpful customer support!

You'll need to make sure your EMT fittings are rated for being threaded into a hub

The thing with weatherproof cast boxes (Bell boxes) is that they have cast-in threaded hubs in them instead of ordinary knockouts, so that water can be kept out reliably.  However, UL historically did not test EMT fittings for use with threaded hubs, only locknuts, and as a result, many of them have a straight thread that won't mate properly with the tapered thread of the hub in all cases.

Fortunately, there are (weatherproof, even) EMT connectors that are rated for threading into hubs; the Bridgeport 290-RTNPT is an example in ½", and it appears your connector was also tested for hub applications based on what the manufacturer is saying.  Note that the Bridgeport version is somewhat longer than a typical compression EMT connector due to having a short pipe nipple, essentially, as part of the fitting, as shown below (photo for illustration only):

Once that's done, you're good to go

Once the EMT has been made up using the correct fittings, though, you'll be good to go when it comes to using it as a grounding path.  Note that I'd probably be using weatherproof push-on couplings (SIMPush™, Mighty-Bite™) or equivalent for joining EMT pieces together; these are the least dependent on workmanship, and couplings are a common source of issues when using EMT as a grounding path.


How can I repair a broken bathroom sink drain? My bathroom underneath is leaking at the joint point. The pipe seems to be okay.

And the surface of the sink, the ring was broken.

When I hold the pipe underneath, it can be moved up and down and turned. Please the video I made.
sink leaking.

My questions:

How to repair it?
What tools or part I should buy?

Parts

Those valves look like those commonly used in the USA. In the UK I'd go to a DIY store and buy a "basin waste" but there is probably a different name in the USA. Basin wastes all seem to be a standard size over here, but yours looks small, I'd remove it and take it to the store with me.

Tools

Tools needed include a large spanner or strap wrench (though you can succeed without these) and some plumbers putty. However the last waste I bought came with a foam washer that was used instead of putty and worked well. This was good because working with putty can be messy and frustrating if you are not used to doing plumbing.

The main body of some basin-wastes have two parts that screw together, sometimes these are difficult to separate (because of liberal use of plumber's putty). Although there are proper tools for this, you can improvise by using a large screwdriver (or similar rod) through the top opening into the ports (i.e. holes) in the side of the inside of the waste and use this to unscrew the top section. Yours seems to be broken and so should come out without any effort.

Procedure

Unscrew the retaining ring under the basin and remove the upper parts.

clean up the basin thoroughly both top, bottom and the internal bits you can reach (gunge tends to accumulate there)

Make a ring of putty, place it around the hole, fit the new waste and tighten, clean away surplus putty and reattach plastic waste pipe.


Can walls be built on top of backer board? I am building a laundry room with a closet. I could frame the walls and then add backer board. However, it would be easier to apply backer board to the entire room and then frame the closet on top of the backer board. Is this an acceptable method?

You are trying to avoid a few backer board cuts related to the closet area. However, you are also increasing the height of the floor. If your existing walls are the standard 8' height, you will have to cut every stud of the new walls in order to frame them correctly. You are just creating more work for yourself. Either way you go, there will be an extra step involved and no significant time would be saved. Frame the walls first, then lay the flooring.


Are there outward signs of a French drain? I'm wondering whether my house has a French drain to keep water away from the foundation. Is there a way to find out that doesn't involve digging up the yard? (I.e., would there be any above-ground indications?) Or do I just need to start digging and see what I find?

To tell the truth a really good French drain install will have no evidence with the exception of the water exit point. In some cases you may see a brown stripe through the lawn but not in all climate zones. A stripe that is brown is one way to tell but not always there. It is much like a leach field in some areas they are green above the drain field and some are brown it depends on the soil and local clean mate and rain / heat.


What can fiberglass insulation NOT touch? I have some rolls of 15" R-13 insulation that I am planning on installing in my floor joists to help sound proof my basement ceiling. Is there anything that the insulation can't touch? I know that the lighting has to be rated to touch the insulation but what about pipes/wiring?

This is pretty late for the op, but for anyone else that comes across this threat.

Resilient channel is extremely easy to short circuit, and there are numerous examples for installs gone wrong with sheetrock falling.  You want hat channel with the appropriate amount of clips to actually hold the weight of the sheetrock.

Just a home theatre enthusiast here, but I have used their products in our first house.  Check out the soundproofing company website for general guidelines.

Pink or yellow fluffy will keep the the joist bays from becoming a drum.
Using 5/8 type x sheetrock will give weight.
"Hat channel" with the basic clips is all that's needed to break the connection.
Double sheetrock with green glue works as a dampener

I like the idea of rockwool instead of fluffy for moisture in our situation, but in a dry space it does virtually nothing better than pink/yellown fluffy insulation to stop the drum situation.

Hope this helps.


What's wrong with my wiring of this light switch? I am trying to replace a "regular" light switch with one that has a timer built in. The old one, as shown below, on the left, has two black wires attached, and no others.

The new switch requires attaching a hot, load, neutral, and ground. I have attempted to do so, but so far it is not working.

Before:

Before (side view)

In order to hook up the new switch, I:

assumed the bottom wire of the original switch was the line/hot wire and the top was the load and attached the wires accordingly. The new switch's red wire is labelled "LOAD" and the black one is labelled "HOT".
attached the green ground wire to a screw at the back of the electrical box
pulled a white wire out of the marret of (unused?) white wires to use as neutral, and attached it to the neutral white wire on the new switch.

I had switched my breaker back on for this circuit and the new switch does not work. I have also tried switching the black and red wires, to no avail. What am I doing wrong?

After:

The problem is the neutral

pulled a white wire out of the marret of (unused?) white wires to use as neutral, and attached it to the neutral white wire on the new switch.

Instead you should ADD the new white wire to the existing bundle.  Only ONE is actually a neutral, the rest are other wires that need neutral.


Improvements to consider when opening walls during remodel of 60s home I'm remodeling a 60s cabin home with vertical and horizontal wood board siding.
While I have the walls exposed, I wonder about possible improvements I should consider while I have access to the open walls. For reference, the walls are standard 2x4, 16" apart. Fireblocks already exist in the walls.
Here's what I've done (or am doing/will do):

Refinish all the siding (it was in rough shape, many had woodpecker holes). I've already refinished the majority of the wood and replaced what wasn't salvageable.
Replace old insulation (R-13, not much room for more).
Replace the old/brittle weather barrier with Tyvek.
Add nail plates over holes in the stud where wires were run.
I've found buried junction boxes in the walls. I am figuring out if the runs are actually efficient and making these accessible.

I'm curious if there's anything else I should be thinking about. For example,

What if I want easy access to the wire runs later on?
Any other structural things I should consider?
What about other "convenience" improvements? Access panels, ...?
I noticed fireblock foam wasn't in any of the vertical wire holes, or any for that matter (i.e., in the horizontal fireblocks between the studs). I might not be calling it the right thing here. In any case, I don't know if this is required or not (as I can't seem to find it mentioned in the local electrical code).

I'm doing the work myself, but I'm open to hiring help if it makes sense.
Thanks in advance.

Did you removed the drywall on the inside as well or just the exterior walls? If just the exterior consider air sealing around everything with spray foam when you pull the fiberglass insulation. You could consider rigid foam instead of fiberglass since 2x4 walls are not that thick.


Best product/method to repair pictured cracks in driveway Please see below for picture.  I would like to repair the cracks, but am unsure as to the ideal product. For reference, the picture represents an area that is approximately 3 feet by 2 feet, with a slight depression of a couple inches.  Leading contenders seem to be Quikrete Patching Compound and Quikrete Polymer-modified Structural Repair. It is a shared driveway that sees regular vehicle traffic and would be difficult to shut down for any period of time.  Ideally, I would just patch the cracks and resurface/fill the depression at a later time.  Primary objective is keep from getting worse.  Thanks.

You typically don't repair something like that. It's likely very unstable, and any rigid repairs will quickly disintegrate. If you are limited by logistics or budget, consider a flexible skimcoat overlay to mask the damage and bring it to a rough level. Specific product recommendations are off-topic (and I don't have any anyway).

Really, the corners (or entire sections) should be cut out, and new concrete poured.


How can I properly vent a basement toilet & shower using an AAV? When we bought our house the plumbing drains for a basement bathroom were roughed in but they did not install any vent lines for them.

We have the first floor plumbing draining into the main stack which drains down into the concrete of our basement and out to the street. The basement bathroom toilet/sink/shower rough in drains tie into that main drain underneath the concrete. They are all capped right now. To properly vent with PVC would be too much demo to the upstairs so we are planning on using Air admittance valves(AAV)(Studor vents). (I can draw a picture if my explanation makes sense)

To vent the sink drain I'm planning to install an AAV inside the vanity.

How do I properly use an AAV with the shower and toilet? For the shower/toilet I'm assuming bust up the concrete, tie into that drain after the P trap with pvc, and run it up into the unfinished area and install AAV's there? Will that work?

So for those out there looking for an answer here is what my plumber did:

The toilet, sink, and shower were all fairly close to each other (in my case about 6 ft). He installed one AAV inside the cabinet under the sink. That is the only AAV installed. He said it has now become a "wet vent" to the toilet and shower drain.


What's the efficiency of extruded polystyrene foam for roof insulation? I'm renovating a house and I'm looking to insulate it well. My question is about the roof.
It's today insulated with 80mm Extruded Polystyrene Foam (EPF) panels, Styrodur. I don't know the product reference for now. Under those panels are wood planks between rafters.
I would like to have advices from experts of this solution but I'm finding controversal speech on internet.
This roof is on top of living places and, most important, there will be a biomass heating system. I'm heading for a stove with granulated wood.
Some say it's really efficient and others indicates warm issues during summers. I'm living in the southern France, temperatures are around 0 °C (32 °F) during winter and 35°C (95 °F) in summer. Does it melt under high temperatures?
Is it suffisant to insulate the house?

An easy method for simulation is offered on the site www.ubakus.com.
It is worth to play around with width and materials before planning or construction work begins.
Parameters like dew points,  moisture and drying time can be seen in seconds, thus disclosing any critical layer combination that could produce mold and damage to the building.
And of course the U or R value are calculated, which might be important for subsidies. F.e. some EU countries demand an U value for  public subsidies.
Best way is to open a roof example and change/add layers. Each layer's width can be decreased/increased  and the layer can be switched on/off by a click to instantly see any changes.
The outside temperature and humidity levels (winter average) should be adapted.


Can I install insulation behind a shower stall that is already in place? I am in the process of renovating my kitchen. I removed everything down to the studs. One of my bathrooms backs up to my kitchen. Once I opened up the wall behind my bathroom shower stall (a fiberglass one piece tub and surround), I see that there is no insulation, drywall, or cement board around my shower stall. It is just sitting in the open on the other side of my kitchen studs.
The bathroom is a small 3 fixture bathroom that has 1 exterior wall. This exterior wall is about 10’ long and the foot end of the tub is on the exterior wall. From what I can see, there is no insulation in this exterior wall. This bathroom was remodeled about 20 years ago and they added this stall. I think they removed the insulation only in this area--not the entire length of the wall.
This stall does not go all the way to the ceiling so it has drywall from around the top of the shower to the ceiling. Is it possible to put some type of insulation in this void around the stall? I have often said that this bathroom didn't feel as though is was insulated. It is always cold in this bathroom in the winter.
I do not want to tear out the shower stall at this point, but am hoping to be able to do something with the access that I have from my open kitchen walls. I do not know anything about vapor barriers or appropriate types of insulation for this situation.

There are two issues: 1) yes, you should add insulation, and 2) no, it should not have a vapor barrier.

1) Yes, insulation will help with the temperature comfort level you’re complaining about. It will help to maintain a constant temperature.

It will be difficult to install because it’s not very accessible.

2) A vapor barrier should not be installed.

Most people don’t understand that “vapor” moves both ways through a wall. That is to say, vapor moves from the warm side to the cool side. As the seasons change, vapor will move through the wall reaching its Dew Point, and turning from a vapor to a solid (water).

If this water is trapped in the wall, it could create dryrot or mold. With a vapor barrier, vapor will enter the wall but not be able to escape. In fact, poly sheeting can accelerate the problem and is no longer recommend, except in the coldest year-around climates.

Here’s an article that explains it better:

https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/75130/What-Happens-When-You-Put-a-Plastic-Vapor-Barrier-in-Your-Wall

It’s very important to understand this concept for bathrooms with excessive moisture. That moisture needs a way to escape from the wall. (Even the best installed poly sheeting will allow vapor into the wall around outlets, joints in sheeting, top and bottom plates, etc. )


Is it ok to stand atop my central A/C unit to install a missing soffit vent? Unless I go on top of the roof, it's the only to get to it without a step ladder. I don't know if the covers on these things are meant to stand the weight of a 250lb guy.  Aside from falling and breaking my arse, could I do serious damage to the unit itself?

The condenser is usually made of simple sheet metal. So no, I would not recommend standing on it. You could instead use 2 ladders on either side with a platform between them.


How can I attach things to the inside of a shipping container without compromising the water tightness? I just got a shipping container for use as storage/workshop and need to figure out how to attach things to the container walls and ceiling, without causing it to leak.

I'd like to hang a garden tool rack on the inside of the doors, and a florescent light fixture from the ceiling. Does anyone know how to accomplish that without causing leaks?

My thoughts so far:

I don't think I can simply screw things into the metal walls as they are fairly thin, and the screws would stick out on the outside.

Welding on the inside would probably work, but I don't have the tools for that, or much metal working experience. I have plenty of woodworking tools and carpentry experience though.

I've also considered drilling holes for bolts and running them through from the outside to attach 2x4's to then screw into- so the head is on the outside and the nut goes on the inside. I'm not sure what that would do for water tightness through, especially on the ceiling where I would want to mount a piece of wood to screw an electrical fixture into. I don't want to cause a leak in the middle of my "wind and water tight" box. So I would need some way to seal around the bolt holes. Caulk or roofing tar?

You can do this without disturbing the walls or ceiling of the container.  Frame thin wall sections on opposite sides (use 2x3s instead of 2x4s to minimize the loss of width).  Run 2x3 joists between the two sides at the ceiling.  You will then have a free-standing, three-sided structure.

With it tight against the walls and ceiling, it can't go anywhere, so you don't need to worry about bracing it so that it doesn't tilt.

You can mount to it, hang lighting fixtures from it, etc., without having to secure it to the container.


Is it safe to use an outdoor receptacle that isn't GFCI-protected? We have an outdoor receptacle, under an enclosure and with flaps that drop down over the plug area, but not GFCI. We would like to use it for a light sensor timer, with 3-outlet powerblock.  Is this safe or should we change out the receptacle?

You have asked the question in a way that indicates you are in North America. As such, you should consult the relevant electrical code in your area as to whether ground-fault protection is required for outdoor accessories.

In terms of safety, non-GFCI outdoor accessories are not inherently unsafe, however it may be a legal requirement for new installations, and with good reason. Environmental factors make the risk of physical damage and water ingress greater, increasing the danger of electric shock. A GFCI device may reduce the danger posed, but as has been mentioned, you may already have GFCI protection before the outlet itself.

If not, a like-for-like replacement of the outlet with a suitable GFCI version should be a simple job, but be aware they take up more depth in the mounting box. Investigate the existing outlet before purchasing a new product.

Similarly, you may be able to use a power block with a GFCI-protected plug. These are bulky, like you might see on a hairdryer, and would not be suitable for leaving connected, which may be your intention.

If you do purchase a GFCI outlet, be sure it is also weather resistant and consider ingress protection by way of a waterproof mounting box if the existing outlet is not mounted in such, like this:


3 black wires to new dimmer switch I have a switch controlling two lights in hallway. I purchased the Lutron C-L DimmerScL-153PH-WH. I have 3 black wires and 1 copper wire coming out of wall.  The old switch was not connected to the copper wire. The 3 black were connected to the switch with just an on/off toggle.  How do I connect my new dimmer to the 3 black coming out of wall?

Are there some white wires in the back of the box?  If so, surely the blacks are:

One black (and partner neutral) which comes from power source.  It will be hot all the time, even when separated from the others.
One black (and partner white) going to other things such as receptacles, light switches and the like, things intended to be always-hot.
One black (and its partner white) going to the lamp - the one controlled by the switch. If you wire power source to this, the lamp will be on all the time.

The normal connection is to a) hook up all grounds.    b) attach the black/hot going to the lamp, to one of the switch terminals.  c) tie the power-source and the "other stuff" hot to each other.  d) Tie those two to the other terminal on the switch.

How to tie 2 wires to one terminal


Exhaust fan venting through soffit where attic has no vent I am installing a bathroom exhaust fan in a portion of the house which is a small addition to the original house. The attic above the addition is separated from the rest of the attic by the original roof (though portions were cut out for the A/C duct and wiring). I know that soffit vents are not typically recommended for bathroom exhaust fans, because roof vents cause air to be drawn into the soffit and exhaust from a soffit vent would get sucked into the attic. However, the attic above the addition does not have roof vents (thus air should not be sucked in through the soffits), so I am wondering whether it would be okay to use a soffit vent for the bathroom exhaust fan. I am in South Florida, where the temperature doesn't go below freezing in case that is relevant.

Avoiding penetrating the roof with a bath fan vent is the wrong disposition.  Given current materials and techniques, a weather tight seal can be expected every time.  And the trade-off is clearly on that side. Their just too many risks when dumping the vent fan anyplace but through the roof. Keep the run as short as possible and as vertical as possible.  Happy venting.


When ordering lumber what percentage of waste should be expected? Let's say I'm getting ready for a remodeling project, and I'm getting ready to order 2x lumber for framing. Specifically, I'll be ordering No. 2 or better 2x lumber. What percentage of my order should I expect to be scrap (i.e. twisted, warped, crap)?

I've dug through the junk at places like Home Depot and Lowe's, and found it difficult to find a relatively straight board. Do big box stores just keep re-stacking the picked over garbage, so the percentage of junk increases over time? Should I expect this level of waste when ordering from a lumber yard?

I don't think there is an exact answer here.   Most of the issues you are talking about have more to do with the storage, age, time, and manufacturing of the lumber.  So basically you will have a couple of people working at HD or Lowe's that contract out to mills or other lumber yards to get their pallets.  Of course "older" lumber is cheaper.  But you don't know how it was stored and climate/time of year factor into these things too.  Leave some 2x4s out in humid summer heat and they are done in a couple days.

If you are getting a ton of lumber your local lumberyard or something like an 84 Lumber (which I use a few times a year) is a better bet.  First their quality is almost always better and also they will drop off at your door if you hit their minimum.  I order about 10% more than plans.  This really isn't because of board defects but is more for planning defects or bad cuts.

Right when we get a pallet we do an inspection.  If we think we will use the whole thing within a day or two we will bust it open.  If not we work off the top and try to keep the straps on.  It is inevitable that we will find a board with a crown or bowed.  You don't take back every piece that has an issue - you don't have time for this and sooner or later a lumberyard would cut you off - this comment is for framing dimensional lumber like 2x4/2x6s and anything bigger you would be more stringent.   What do we do with the slightly bowed or warped?  We either hide them in places where it doesn't matter or cut them up for crosses.

Now I do sometimes receive a pallet and you can just tell right away that it sucks.  In all of those cases I call up my rep and tell him the pallet sucks right away.  Again you have to have a relationship with a place to do this.  But he would usually spot me a discount and just ask me to snap a picture of anything that I can't use.

Some general tips for dealing with the big boxes (Menards, HD, Lowes):

don't buy anything white.  If the board doesn't have a yellow tint don't touch it.  The cheap white pine they sell I wouldn't use for anything and it flakes at the ends when you try to nail into it.
their employees are told to put the scraps back on top.  It could be the case that the top three layers of any pallet includes scraps that someone else discarded.  I have no problems throwing out 50 boards in a pile on the floor until I start seeing something decent.
if you want straight and durable you are going to have to buy the highest grade that they sell in most cases.  Most big boxes near me sell two varieties of #2 (pure white crap) and two varieties of #1 or premium.  Sometimes and I will emphasize sometimes the worst grade of #1 is OK.  This depends who is buying at your store.
I usually buy my framing lumber with one of my older kids in tow.  I will check it for twisting and vertical warping (if one board is warped chances are the one next to it is too).  My son throws it on the floor and makes sure it lies flat.  It is very normal that when looking for 30 2x4s we find 4 in our first 30-40 boards and the rest in the next 30-40.
special note for PT.  Don't buy any PT 2x4s that looked like they just came out of the pool.  My HD loves to sell super wet PT.  I have complained numerous times (along with several other contractors I know) and the lady that handles the fulfillments just laughs at us and acts like we are idiots.  She has told me personally that PT is supposed to be that wet (it actually drips when you pick it up).  So dumb she thinks everyone else is dumb.  Two takeaways from this.  You are at the mercy of those ordering at the store.  And if you buy that wet PT it will warp and twist when it is drying - even if you get it to use.
sometimes you will only find a good pallet in a certain length.  I have been to HD many times and seen that all of the 96" boards suck.  But walk over to the 104s and bam a good stack.
they take anything back.  The only thing you can waste at big box is your time.  You can grab 30 twisted boards and bring them all back and they don't care.


How can I figure out why my water pressure is basically zero? I took a shower last night before bed and the water pressure in our house was perfectly fine. This morning the water is drizzling out from all faucets, showers and fixtures. I've checked the water main, the basement in general, and the whole house (inside and out) looking for a visible leak: zilch.

I contacted the town water department: our account is in good standing and they are willing to send someone out tomorrow to see if anything is wrong with our main. The idea here is that if I can determine that the water coming into the house is OK, then I need to call a plumber and figure out what's going on inside. But, obviously, if the water coming into the house has bad pressure, then that's a town problem.

I spoke to their chief maintenance guy, who is coming over tomorrow, and he said there's no real way for him to test the pressure coming into the house, except if he can "hook in some place" with a pressure valve.

I call bologna on this: there has to be a way for them to test water pressure at every stage in the pipeline, right? I guess my specific question here is:

What tests can be done to determine whether the bad pressure is coming from the main itself, or is coming from a clog/leak somewhere inside my house?

This is a small town (1 traffic light) and I'm worried about a situation where the town guys are too lazy to diagnose and fix a problem on their end, and keep telling me there's nothing they can do, and I'm stuck with virtually-no water (but paying for it anyways).

Check your hose bibs outside the house, those typically are first in line.  If those are low pressure then its before your house.  If those are good, then it's in your house.  As for water company checking pressure, what they said is correct.  They just don't install the monitoring equipment to do that.  They will install pressure gauges at key points in the distribution network but that's it.  From water main to your house there will be no way for them to check.

Also, check your water meter.  If its spinning with no visible water use then you have a leak.


Is this the correct wiring for Honeywell humidifier? Additional Info:
Make/Model of furnace: Bryant / 310AAV042090
Link to Installation Instructions: https://www.carrierenterprise.com/bryant-legacy-80-afue-90-000-btuh-multipoise-gas-furnace-310aav042090#tab-documents
I've reconnected my whole house humidifier but wanted to run by what I did with an expert or someone who's done this before.  Don't want to ruin my furnace.
I recently purchased a house with a whole house humidifier, a Honeywell HE360A.

The inspector said it wasn't working and sure enough, it doesn't work.  I started troubleshooting the setup and everything looks good until the wiring from the humidifier enters the furnace and ends at some kind of relay.  There's no wiring from the furnace to the relay so there's no power or communication from the furnace to the humidifier.

I started looking around the circuit board to see if there were any wires or plugs dangling that needed to be plugged in.  That's when I noticed this piece of wiring laying on the floor next to the furnace.  It seems to be the connection between the relay and the furnace circuit board.

So, I did some research and looked at some wiring diagrams and it looks like I need to do the following:  The end of the wire with the two connectors connects to the relay, doesn't seem to matter what order but I matched the red and the white on the top.  Then the end with one connector and one bare wire goes to the circuit board.  The connector goes to the HUM and the bare wire goes to the COM 24V.  Is this the correct way to wire this?

Here's the wiring diagram of the furnace.

I just found my answer.  I've been searching for documentation for the humidifier on how to connect it to the furnace.  This morning, I decided to look for documentation for the furnace to see if it mentioned anything about attaching humidifiers.  I looked up the model number and found the installation instructions online.  In the furnace installation instructions it states:

Humidifier (HUM)
Connect an accessory 24 VAC, 0.5 amp. maximum humidifier (if used) to the 1/4--in male quick--connect HUM terminal and COM--24V screw terminal on the control board thermostat strip. The HUM terminal is energized
when gas valve relay (GVR) is energized. (See Fig. 24.)"

So, there it is. Just had to look for the correct documentation.
Additional Info:
Make/Model of furnace: Bryant / 310AAV042090
Link to Installation Instructions: https://www.carrierenterprise.com/bryant-legacy-80-afue-90-000-btuh-multipoise-gas-furnace-310aav042090#tab-documents


How to Open Housing to Replace Light Bulb? I need to replace a light bulb, the problem is I have no idea how to open the housing as it has no screws or anything visible where I could open it from. Here is a photo, any idea how I could open it?

I have a similar fixture, and it uses a spring loaded set of three clips.  Simply pull on the cover.  But for the ones I have the force is scary high for a thin diffuser.

I also have a similar fixture and the dome has three bayonet tabs which will disengage with about a 1/8 turn.  This one is a bit older, and the diffuser is heavier than the one mentioned above.

Those are common fastenings, but there is no assurance that they are what you have.  If you know your manufacturer/model, you might find info with a product search.


Power gone along back wall of my house and did not flip breaker I've lost power to all the plugs starting from my oldest daughter and all along the back wall of the house and to the kitchen light switch. But breaker did not flip, but I flipped them all anyway to make sure and still nothing. It did come back on for about 5secs but shut off again. And nothing since. I've run extension cords to various appliances so they still work. But I can't really afford to call and electrician. Please help

Since part of the first outlet works it is probably daisy chained to the others. With the power off remove this outlet and look for broken or loose connections. Since 1/2 of the outlet is working one of the metal tabs on the side of the outlet may have failed check this outlet first. a loose connection in a back stab or broken wire is very common for this type of failure. Depending on where the feed to the outlet is landed the bottom could work or the top if one of the tabs broke or failed under load (rare but with these symptoms probable).


Weird 3 Way switch wiring I've gone through a few dozen different threads, videos and whatnots, and can't seem to figure out how to wire up my new 3-way switch.

Let's call the top of the steps Switch A and bottom Switch B.

Switch A has Five wires coming into it. Black and White from a 14/2. The WHITE wire has 122v on it. Next wire is a 14/3 with red, white, black (and ground). NONE of the other wires in this box have electricity. I tested each one by connecting meter from wire to ground.

At Switch A, the WHITE that's hot is connected to the BLACK of the 14/3. The remaining wires are all connected to the terminals on the existing switch.

Switch B - has three wires coming in on a 14/3 red, white, black (and ground). NOTHING has electricity on it.

Pimary switch: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Z-Wave-Plus-In-Wall-1000W-Smart-Dimmer-White-Lt-Almond-14299/303404502

Manual for Primary Switch: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/71/718869d3-e92c-456b-9c97-cbf8018d3850.pdf

Add-on switch: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Home-Automation-120-VAC-3-Way-Auxiliary-Add-On-Switch-Almond-White-Paddles-12723/205798442

Manual for Add-on switch: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/33/334dd232-b90b-4001-93de-5a489bda7e9d.pdf

I can't seem to figure out how to connect the Primary and add-on switches. ... any guidance would be appreciated.

What you just described in paragraph 3 is a bog-standard 3-way switch loop of the type used before 2011 (no neutral offered).

Power is delivered to the lamp proper; the 14/2 cable brings down always-hot (white due to a Code exception) and switched-hot (black).  That is all that is required on a switch loop for a simple switch.

A nest of 3/4-way switches acts like a single switch.  This 3-way complex is installed like a "switch loop".   Neutral is not present, ergo these (and most) smart switches cannot work here.

You have two options:

Run a replacement 14/3 cable from the lamp to Switch A, providing always-hot (black), switched-hot (red) and neutral (white).  Now the master switch can go in the switch A location.  In the old, inter-switch 14/3 you re-task red and white to be comms and neutral, respectively; black is capped off.
Go with a different smart-switch line where it uses a module inside the lamp dome, which talks to smart-switch remotes in the current switch locations.  Then, reallocate the wires in the existing 14/2 and 14/3 to be actual always-hot (black) and neutral (white), to power the smart switch remotes.


Do I need to repair a slit vapor barrier on fiberglass insulation I am cutting holes in the ceiling to install IC-rated recessed lights and I accidentally slit into the brown paper lining of the underside of the fiberglass insulation.  Do I need to repair the cuts in this vapor barrier?  If so, how do I make the repair?

If you are installing IC rated lights an are worried about the paper, I would be concerned about the rest of the insulation that surrounds the light.

Typically when I set a "new work" style rough in I cut the drywall bigger than the light rough in by a few inches on either side up to the joists that will support the light. Yes I may cut the paper, but the larger cut in the drywall helps me address the cut and other issues.

"Remodelers" IC rough ins are a different matter.

Once the light is wired in, I add another 4'section or 2 centered over the area where the light will go, after the light is secured in place I cut the paper and the insulation to the light. You can tape the cuts in the paper if you like, and it may improve the performance of the vapor barrier.

The reason why I detail this, is if you have not cut the insulation other than the incidental cut during the time the drywall is cut, I am led to think the insulation is simply pushed up to make way for the light to go in. Doing this raises the insulation above the neighboring pieces and the R-value is diminished drastically in these ares where this happens. This is the meaning behind my opening statement.


How to diagnose an washing machine problem without tripping the main RCD I've got an LG washing machine that has recently developed a fault whereby it trips the RCD whenever I turn on the control panel.
I've done some basic continuity testing with a multimeter, but I can't get any further.
Every single socket is on the same (30mA) RCD, which means I can't do any process of elimination on any of the components without turning everything off, something I'm not prepared to do right now.

Option 1: Call a pro.
The safest and easiest approach. If you don't have the skills and/or equipment for the other options, just have the machine diagnosed and repaired by someone who does.
Option 2: Use an isolation transformer.
Just pull out your trusty isolation transformer and use it to power the machine. I'm sure you have got one, or you would have stopped at Option 1.
This ensures that both the live and the neutral conductors of the washing machine are isolated from ground and the mains, so you can't get nailed no matter which part of the machine you touch. You can also monitor the current through the equipment grounding conductor and while you wiggle or disconnect various parts of circuitry to pinpoint the ground fault.
Not really option 3: Play the Russian roulette and get yourself killed to save a hundred £/€.
This is very much against the applicable code/regulations unless you're a licensed electrician. If you're one, go to Option 2 instead. If you aren't one, go to Option 1.
You're still here? OK, whatever, it's your life (and those of your family members) anyway. Don't come back complaining when your house burns down or someone gets killed.
Disconnect the ground wire AND bond the chassis to the neutral wire instead. Triple-check that you haven't accidentally swapped live and neutral. Do not leave the chassis unbonded under any circumstances, as the ground fault would make it live and get yourself killed even sooner than otherwise expected.
If you want, you can make yourself a convenient un-grounding gizmo for this: Make a really short extension cord (so short nobody will ever want to use it for anything, like 20 cm or less) that has the ground contact(s) on the receptacle end bonded to neutral, and the ground contacts(s) on the plug end left disconnected. Clearly label this as a time-travel tool that takes you back to when dedicated equipment grounding was a rarely used luxury. Never use it to permanently workaround ground faults.
Undo these modifications as soon as you're done troubleshooting. Under no circumstances leave the machine unattended when wired like this.
Really, you should have picked one of the former two options instead.


What is this purpose of this access pipe in my bathroom? In my new apartment in Spain there is an opening in the middle of the tiled floor that reveals a ~15cm diameter pipe. This descends around 60cm and has water at the bottom and some smaller pipe connections that I can't see very well. There was some grease and grime on the sides of the pipe that I have cleaned as best I can. Water leaving the sink, toilet and bathtub all seem to disturb the water at the bottom of this pipe so it appears to be connected somehow.

What is the purpose of this pipe?
What maintenance, if any, does it require?
Are there any signs of problems that I should look out for?

It's a cleanout port. Very helpful if you ever have a clog downstream in the pipe. The plumber can stick a snake (not an actual animal, a tool called a snake) down it to loosen the clog.

No maintenance required.

Water coming out of that port means you have a clog and the pipe is backing up. If the seal fails it can allow sewer gasses into your bathroom.


What are the differences between an expansion tank and a pressure sensor? We have a red expansion tank in our building. We have so many problems with this tank. Every 3 months we have to change the tanks tube because the tube is perforated every 3 months.

Now an expert (hopefully) suggests to change the expansion tank with a pressure sensor. He said that this type of sensors is better than the expansion tank.

Now, which one is better and what is the difference between them?

I would guess from what's here that the expansion tank is on a well pump, and the suggested replacement is a constant pressure controller for the pump.

However, in most cases a constant pressure controller still requires an expansion tank (though it can be a smaller expansion tank, depending on the type of system.)

A standard well pump installation has the pump off, or pumping full-speed. The pressure tank is nearly empty at the pressure where the controller turns the pump on, and holds some gallons/liters of water when the pressure has risen far enough to turn the pump off. The pump cycles on and off repeatedly when water is used for a long time.

There are several approaches to constant pressure control. One of the simpler versions uses a pressure-regulating valve with a slight leak, and the aforementioned type of controller and tank. Starting from the "pump off" condition, this system will run water from the pressure tank until it reaches the turn on pressure for the pump, and then will rise to the pressure-regulator's set pressure (typically halfway in between on and off - so 50 for a system that's on at 40, off at 60)   where it will slow down water flow to just what is being used, and maintain that pressure. Counterintuitively (but factually), the well pump actually draws less power and runs perfectly happily "partly shut-off" by the valve. If water use is VERY slight or turned off completely, the slight leak allows the pump to slowly pressurize the tank until the pump shuts off. If water is used for a long time, the pump runs as long as water is being used, until the use rate is very, very low or stops.

More complex (and usually expensive) systems use sensors and a variable frequency drive to actually change the speed of the pump to match water use and maintain constant pressure. Even those still use an expansion tank, though.

If your Italian tank bladder/tube also fails, it's probably time to suspect the poor construction quality of your Chinese tank (possibly damaging the bladders/tubes) and replace it with something better.


What should I be aware of as I prepare to replace my bathroom vanity with a wall mount sink? We have a super tiny master bath, and the sink, which is a vanity type is pretty destroyed. I think someone used some caustic cleanser on it or something. I'm thinking of replacing it with a wall mount sink and wondering whether I should be alert to any caveats as I embark on that project. My plan is to add a skirt to the new sink so I'm not super worried about exposing the plumbing.

I already replaced a spud inlet with the help of this forum so while I have no idea what I'm doing I'm reasonably confident that I'll work it out. Any tips?

There are three things you need to consider:

Support;
Support; and
Support!

You NEED to find solid framing, probably uprights studs. You need serious screws/lag bolts into those studs. The sink is sure to come with mounting instructions as to exactly how to attach, but framing is a key.  Masonry hanging may be possible, but you will need very deep, serious anchors.

Many wall mount sinks can also get some extra support in the form of slender metal legs that help lift up front lip. A pedestal sink is also very compact and adds a center support. Finally there are corner sinks that rely on support from two walls.

Obviously there are a few other things, once you have solved that.  Where do the supply lines come from? Where does the drain enter the wall/floor? You might avoid the skirt (if you want) if you can position the lines to make them appear symetrical, attractive, etc? What type of fittings do you think are acceptable to see (solid chrome or brass? braided flex? etc.).  If you are certain they will be hidden, less of an issue.

Oh, by the way, if you don't have good SUPPORT, the pipes will eventually leak.


What are the pros and cons of LED vs CFL vs incandescent bulbs for outdoor lighting? I'm planning to install some light on my balcony and was just wondering what would be the best choice of lamp.
I live in a relatively cold climate, and the current temperature at night is around -10°C. I'm wondering what my best choice of (E27 fixture) lamp is; incandescent, CFL or LED?

My preference is LED, since I like the white balance of modern LED lights and their environmental advantage, but before I put down the money for a LED bulb, I'd like to know whether LED lights can withstand temperatures of up to -20°C.

The short answer is to check with the bulb manufacturer. Ambient temperature and use case requirements may also be mentioned on the box/packaging.

The long answer is that it depends (as always eh?). From what I could find online, CFLs and incandescent bulbs are actually MORE sensitive to LOW temperatures than LEDs. So in your specific use case, I would think you would be fine in using an LED bulb.

That being said, keep in mind that there ARE certain environments where LEDs may perform worse -- particularly in settings where the ambient temperature is very high, resulting in overheating of the LED package and eventually leading to device failure. I think most manufacturers are getting better at heat sink designs anyway so this may not be a concern later.

-M


Does this bracket exist to hold two tiles together? I don't think it's the best title, but I don't know what else to use.

I have several of these large tiles, and I want to make a planter out of them. Is there a bracket (like the image below) that I can put in each corner that will hold these five tiles together so that they stay together?

If not, how can I attach five tiles so that they stay together and remain together?

It will be used as a planter. The brackets could be on the inside or the outside.

I would just buy some 2"x 3" or 3"x3" aluminum angle and cut off 2" pieces and drill holes in each side.

You could get a lot of brackets from a long piece of angle and epoxy them to the tiles. Aluminum is soft enough to cut with hacksaw .

You could use a diamond drill bit to drill the tiles and  dill holes in the angle to attach the brackets with machine bolts.

OR

Look at these. Playwood


What exactly is a PAR type LED lamp, how does it differ from R/BR type LED & CFL lamps? I am in the process of replacing my incandescent bulbs with more efficient alternatives. My home is about 14 years old, I've owned it for a little over three years. It seems most of the bulbs that it "came with" are original, and since I purchased the house almost every tungsten bulb in a built-in fixture ended up burning out. In particular were the R40 ceiling floods, of which I have 16 in total in the interior. I'd ignored many of them, as I rarely turned most of them on, however when three in my kitchen burned out within a weeks period, I up and replaced the whole lot with EcoSmart (made by Lighting Science) R30 CFL's that offer around 800 lumens.

The initial difference was HUGE. The 14 year old bulbs were extremely dim and VERY orange in color. The CFLs, when fully warmed up, are very nice and bright. I chose cooler colors (3500k and 5000k) which light the place much more naturally (at least to my eyes). The caveat with CFL, as I am learning, is they do not perform well in cooler temperatures. I try to use my heater as little as possible in the winter, generally only heating when the interior temperature drops below 60-64 degrees. All of the CFL R30s I purchased have a common problem, which seems to be common across brands as I've tried TCP, Phillips, and others: Very long warmup time, very low lumens during warmup, and an extreme magenta hue during warmup. The bulbs also do not seem to reach full brightness, and the way the reflectors are designed, the shape of the spiral inside the R30 "can" is clearly visible and appears rather dark.

I've decided to switch to LED, despite the cost. In trying out a few from the local store, they seem far superior to CFL. They start instantly, always produce the same color, are fully dimmable (and seem to dim smoothly unlike CFL), and don't seem to be affected by temperature. I've only ever used R or BR type, however all of the ones at the local store in the color temperatures I prefer are PAR type. The BR type LED floods seem to produce similar quality and diffused light to the CFL's, but the only color I can find are 2700K. What exactly is the difference between an R/BR type flood and a PAR type flood? Additionally, what are the differences between PAR30, PAR38, etc? Are PAR type good for indoor use (in the past, I'd only ever seen a few mentions that PAR type were required for outdoor scenarios, indicating they were better sealed against weather)?

Due to the lack of adequate answers, I decided to research the differences myself and provide an answer to the benefit of the community.

PAR Type Lamps

From a build quality and light control standpoint, PAR type lamps are generally considered superior. The explicit parabolic nature of the reflector means light is more precisely reflected directly out of the bulb cavity, with less dispersion, than an R or BR type lens. PAR type lamps, thanks to the design of the lens in front of the actual light emitting element (which is usually a given with home lighting...PAR in general can referr to a very wide variety of lighting which may or may not have a front lens, including high powered stage lighting). The lens is often fresnel in nature, are often additionally capable of focusing the more accurately reflected light into a brighter, narrower spot. The fact that they have a more precisely crafted lens means they are capable of being designed to emit beams of varying angular degrees wide (anywhere from 12° to 70°), with high intensity narrow beams or more diffuse wider beams, makes them highly flexible.

PAR type lamps are also frequently designed in such a way that makes them viable for outdoor use. Not all PAR type lamps are properly sealed for use in humid climates or areas where rain or other water could intrude upon the bulb, but many PAR type lamps are. This is a key difference between PAR and R or BR type lamps.

In terms of nomenclature, PAR lamps are usually designated with a number. The number of a PAR lamp, such as PAR38, gives the diameter of the lamp in inches. In the case of a PAR38, the diameter would be 4.75" (4 3/4"), or "thirty eight eighths of an inch." Common PAR lamp sizes for home are PAR20, PAR30, PAR38, with the latter being most common.

R Type Lamps

One of the more common types of flood light lamps for use indoors, the R-type lamp is a more cheaply constructed "reflector" type lamp. They are not particularly efficient in any key respect, their design is roughly defined and there are no strict rules or guidelines regarding the reflector. As such, R-type lamps generally produce a highly diffuse light with a broad angle.

They use a similar nomenclature as PAR type bulbs. For example, an R40 is a bulb 40/8ths of an inch in diameter, or 5". The two most common R-type lamp sizes are R40 and R30.

BR Type Lamps

Preceding the CFL and LED age of high efficiency lighting, the BR-type lamp was an attempt to produce a more efficient indoor-use only replacement for R-type lamps. Standing for "bulbous reflector", the design of a BR-type lamp is more strict. The reflector is designed in such a way as to more efficiently reflect light. They still produce fairly soft, diffuse light, however it is reflected in a narrower beam, thus more efficiently utilizing light produced by the internal emitter (filament, LED, or CFL spiral.)

They too use the same eighth-inch nomenclature as PAR and R type lamps. The most common sizes are BR40 and BR30.

CFL and LED R, BR, and PAR type lamps

While the core design of these types of lamps was implemented in the days of tungsten-filament (incandescent and halogen) bulbs, the design is still used for CFL and LED lamps. In the case of CFLs, the actual reflector efficiency is likely suspect (at least in the case of a PAR type lamp), as the design of a PAR lamp, and thus it's efficiency in utilizing light, is dependent on the size and location of the internal emitters. CFL spirals are usually used in CFL-based flood lamps, and CFL spirals are a very different kind of emitter than a filament or LED. LED based flood lamps probably resemble classic filament based flood lamps better than CFLs do.

LED and CFL Light Quality

In some experimentation of my own, LED-based PAR type lamps definitely seem to direct a far greater quantity of their light downward, where as CFL spiral-based lamps still generally produce a more diffused output. Depending on the type of lens in front of the emitter, the quality and shape of the projected light for both CFL and LED PAR type lamps can vary greatly, from caustic refraction to fairly diffuse. CFL R/BR type lamps nicely simulate their incandescent predecessors. LED R/BR type lamps do not seem to diffuse quite as well as CFLs, so if you are looking for diffuse flood lighting, CFL generally has a more pleasing diffusion.

LED PAR lamps definitely produce a greater amount of directed illumination, so if you need to brightly light anything, LED is probably the best choice. LED flood lamps are also usually fully dimmable, "instant" on (sometimes "instant" really means up to a half-second delay before light is actually emitted), and produce far greater consistency of color (CFL color consistency is often rather poor, and during cooler or cold days, CFL floods will frequently brighten, dim to a deep magenta, then slowly normalize as they warm). LED lamps, of all designs, are usually fully dimmable these days as well. Dimmable LED flood lamps are usually dimmable down to 10% illumination, with some from the better manufacturers (such as Lighting Science) often dimmable down to 5%. Dimming quality, smoothness, minimum output and consistency is vastly superior on LED compared to CFL, with no flicker, popping, blinking, or inconsistent dropout as is frequent with dimmable CFL lamps.

In terms of the quality of projected light, BR-type CFL lamps definitely produce a smoothly diffuse light with little visible pattern directly underneath each bulb. PAR type lamps, either CFL or LED, but more so in the case of LED, produce visible refraction patterns under each bulb. I believe this has a lot to do with the design of the lens, and when multiple flood lamps are used along a hall or in a kitchen, diffusion improves. LED PAR type lamps can be very bright, which is nice when you need light.

My Choice and Recommendation

I have chosen to refurnish my kitchen, and eventually my hallways, with Lighting Science 5000k and 3000k (or possibly 4000k) Dimmable PAR38 LED lamps. These puppies are about $34 each, however they have twice the lifetime rating of comparable lamps from all other manufacturers (50,000 hours @ 6hrs per day vs. 25,000 hours @3-6hrs per day). The light is not as diffuse as your standard R-type incandescent, but the color quality is far superior for those who have never much liked the deep orange color of a classic incandescent (the 3000k versions are closer to a halogen in color, and the 5000k produce a nice, clean, crisp neutral white.)

For the highest quality, I recommend the following. Since LED lamps are dimmable, it is recommended to use a dimming switch wherever you use high lumen LED PAR lamps (i.e. 800 lumen or brighter). Personally I use Lutron HED-certified digital dimmers with dimming setting memory. One push of the button and the lights fade up over about a 1.5 seconds to your pre-set brightness level. Another push of the button, and the lights fade to minimum brightness then off over several seconds. With 800 lumen bulbs, setting a Lutron digital dimmer one or two notches down from maximum brightness produces very pleasing illumination, with the added bonus that if you need more light, or wish to add light during the daytime to fully illuminate areas that might generally be in shadow, you have the ability to crank up the illumination beyond that pleasing level.


What determines which heat energy meter is mine in a duplex? I am specifically referring to meters for heat/AC energy.

Our duplex has two meters, but when I went to submit our reading and create our account it said that the one with the lower reading was not the one attached to our bill.

I assume that the lower reading would be ours because

It is just me and my husband in our suite, the neighbors are a couple with a toddler.
The neighbors have an extra room to heat.
We don't let our heat 'run in the background'. To save money, we only turn it on when we feel physically too cold and we promptly turn it off when it reaches the set temperature.
Finally, we haven't ran our heat in almost a month, I can literally hear theirs click in each morning. Is there any chance they are being billed for our meter and we are getting theirs? They have been here for a few years, we have only been here for two months.

Turn all of your heat / AC devices off then go out and verify one is moving and one that is not. Many utilities have the tag number from the meter or seal on the bill. With smart meters ID tags are much more common.


How can I build custom air ducts for an in-wall heater? I have a in-wall heater just like this one:

(source: oly5star.com)

It sucks cold air from lower part of vent, heats inside, and blows it out in the upper part of the vent.

Now I have the basic problem of putting a wooden cabinet in front of it. I can let the cabinet 8 inches away from the wall, but that doesn't solve my issue. The air stays hooked in that small region. The cabinet heats, which is not a problem. The problem is that the room stays cold!

What I really want is a different cover with a custom air ducts. I want the heater to suck air from the floor, heat it, and blow it straight to the top:

Is there an easy way to build these ducts myself? Remember the ducts must be heat-resistant!

Probably not the answer you want to hear, but the manufacturer of your heater would most likely prohibit the alteration of air flow into and out of the unit. Doing so would void the industry safety certifications required for manufacturers, the warranty, and would probably not be safe.

Additionally, all wall heaters have minimum clearance requirements for the placement of objects in front, 8" is likely too close for placement of combustibles (like wood cabinets).

I would recommend that you discontinue use of the wall heater if it does not fit your design plans. There are many types of plug-in electric room heaters that work for a variety of room sizes. Many of these are very quiet, inexpensive, and efficient (probably more efficient then that wall heater) and you can place it anywhere in the room you want.


Does manual operation of a Taco 570 series zone valve operate the boiler? I have a home with multiple zones with the valves mentioned in the question.  The documentation (http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/100-3.pdf) isn't clear about whether contact 3 is energized when the valve is manually operated or not, and I'd like to open one of them manually for an extended time.

I'm in an awkward spot; I have a zone valve that I suspect is faulty, and no immediate access to a meter to diagnose it.   I'm going to be away for an extended time in very cold weather, and this zone includes a bathroom that I'm nervous about freezing without heat.   I'd like to open the valve manually (using the lever made for this purpose), and have the zone receive water anytime another zone calls for heat, but not trigger the boiler itself.   So far, experimental evidence is suggesting that it does not trigger the boiler, but I'd like confirmation.
Note: this is a very small zone (a powder room and hallway) that's open to the kitchen, so I'm not concerned about wasting too much heat, as it will reduce the demand in the kitchen zone somewhat.

After speaking to a service tech, I've confirmed that the design of the Taco valves is that the boiler contact is not energized when in manual override.     However, he also stated that he's seen cases where they failed with the contact energized, so I'm planning to disconnect that wire if I have a similar situation in the future.


Adding a vanity light to a switched knob and tube ceiling light I shut off the main breaker, disconnected an ancient light fixture, taped new wire to the existing knob and tube and pulled it all up into my attic. Next I pigtailed from the K&T to two new (WBG) wires and ran one to the new vanity light, the other to where the ancient fixture had been. I connected white to white and black to black on the new fixtures. After turning the power back on, only the vanity light lights up. My non contact tester tells me when the switch is off, neither fixture has power and when the switch is on, both fixtures have power.

Aside from not rewiring my entire home, what have I done wrong?

I rechecked all of the wire nuts and found a wire slipped out of a pigtail. I now can see the light!


Corrosion of ceiling fan bodies & fan blades How can I prevent corrosion of fan bodies & fan blades in Mumbai weather?
Someone suggested we can apply coat of varnish but I fear heat generated due high speed rotation of fans can melt the varnish and subsequently it can fly staining the walls.

The best thing to do is purchase the correct fan for the environment that it is going to be installed in. Fans that are made for the outdoor/wet/hot weather are going to cost more, but they are made for that type of environment, and they should come with a warranty.

As for adding a protective coating to an existing fan, the only thing that I can think of would be to powder coat it, but that is going to cost you. If it can even be done, the shop would have to disassemble everything, powder coat, reassemble, test (hope that the blades are balanced) and even then that does not mean that the interior motor/wiring will not go bad do to the weather conditions.

If it where me I would get a new fan for the environment.