What's the difference between Husky brand and HDX brand? At Home Depot I have noticed the advertising of HDX products lately that are really low price items including tools and other household things.

As far as I knew Home Depot already had their own products marketed under the "Husky" name.  From what I can tell the Husky tools seems to be made much better than the HDX tools, but is there really any difference between them?  And what's Home Depot's reasoning for starting another line of products rather than promoting the line they already have?

Marketing-wise, I'd say it's similar between Sears and KMart; same company with some same products but different markets. HDX covers a larger market-share, they have trash bags to storage to tools where Husky is almost exclusively tools.
Product-wise, Husky is trying to compete with Craftsman(Sears) and Kobalt(Lowes) offering lifetime warranties where HDX products do not.

Husky & HDX are two separate brands, Husky hand tools have a lifetime
warranty and HDX does not, but is a more affordable house brand of
tools we sell now.
--The Home Depot Customer Care

--Source


Duplicate/extend outdoor GFCI outlet with above ground PVC conduit? So I am in the final stages of a deck rebuild, and at the last minute thought about a slight change.

To the right of this photo you can see an power outlet on the wall, currently has a yellow extension cord plugged in.

Behind the photographer, the deck runs for another 20 feet to the end of the yard. I'm thinking it might be useful to have power at both ends of the deck (for a bug zapper or fan) so need to run some wire for this.

My plan is to run some PVC conduit that goes to the gang box pictured, under the deck and then 'pop up' at the other end of the deck (where a second GFCI outlet would be installed in a outdoor box). The conduit will NOT be buried, but rather fixed to the underside of the deck.

Any thoughts on this approach?  I'm concerned with the following:

Having a junction box outside (i.e. using the gang box with the outlet as a junction)
Not having the cable buried. Everything I could find online suggests outdoor cable should be buried.
Bridging two GFCI outlets

The first problem can be dealt with using a Bell 5403 or equivalent weatherproof extension box to provide a place to hook the conduit to and some extra cubic inches for the additional wire fill.  You'll need to hook a ground pigtail to it, by the way -- there do not seem to be non-metallic weatherproof extension boxes.

Since you are running conduit under the deck -- you can run individual THWN wires inside it instead of a UF cable (although running UF aboveground is permitted when protected from physical damage and direct sunlight if it isn't IDed as sunlight resistant), and running THWN will make it easier to pull even with an oversized conduit -- 3/4" inch will provide ample space for a single circuit extension like yours.  Don't forget to put in expansion fittings, lest your conduit run do the snake on you!

Last but not least -- simply use an ordinary outlet for the new outlet, and run it from the LOAD terminals on the existing GFCI.  (Although putting two GFCIs in series won't break anything, it could confuse you as there is no guarantee as to which one will trip when something happens.)


Insulate back of high and low voltage gang boxes in attic We just finished building a home, and I prewired an equipment closet upstairs for handling all of my networking, home theater and whole home audio equipment. It looks like this:

All the single and double gang boxes are standard open-backed low voltage gang boxes, and the triple gang is a normal Carlon high voltage box. The back of this wall is attic which makes getting to things to wire them up a breeze, but also means that it's getting incredibly hot in the closet.

There's insulation on the walls that I cut away a little bit to pass wires through, and I've stuffed insulation in the low voltage holes where possible.

Even with the insulation, the outlet covers themselves are probably about 90-95 degrees on a hot day (110 or so in the attic). What are my options for insulating the low voltage brackets? Cramming insulation in there seems to be doing very little.

I know on the Carlon triple gang I can use expanding foam, but I'm a little hesitant to do that until I'm absolutely positive I won't need to make any adjustments to the speaker cable. Do I have any slightly less permanent options there that will still improve insulation?

There's no harm in using more insulation than you technically need, and it's cheap. I'd do one of these things:

Hang batts vertically over the wiring; tack them along the top (and maybe at the the bottom depending on what's down there) and let them bulge out over it all. As long as they fit snugly together they'll do a fine job. There cannot be gaps or it does almost nothing.
Frame out an offset wall and move the insulation to that (or just add more and leave the existing). You could leave yourself enough space to get in an do later wiring work.


GFCI with a light switch off the load trips when switch is off I'm at my troubleshooting limit, double checking all the grounds, caps are tight and no cross wires.
If it tripped as soon as I turned the light switch on it would make sense but it's not until 15+min after I switch the lights off that the GFCI trips.
Will a faulty GFCI outlet be the culprit or something else?

When in doubt, don't use LOAD

Generally when people fit GFCI+receptacle combo devices, what they look for and expect is for this receptacle to have GFCI protection.  They don't have any expectations or plans to protect other stuff also.

So leave LOAD alone.   LOAD comes with tape across it, and the tape roughly says "Do Not Use.  Wizards Only."   Leave the tape on.   If you need to land 2+ wires, put them all on LINE -- either by pigtailing or using the "screw to clamp" feature on some GFCIs.

What the wizards know is that LOAD has a very specific purpose: to extend GFCI protection beyond this receptacle to other devices. That may seem like a no-brainer, "everything's safer with GFCI", "what could possibly go wrong" but it means any of those devices can also trip the GFCI and you are stuck with that, even if it sucks.   So wizards do not extend protection lightly.  They do it precisely where they mean to!

Bathrooms and LOAD

Bathrooms are the worst for this because a) wiring often has a switch and receptacle adjacent, and that invites a neutral imbalance error;  b) you have lots of old, damp machines in bathrooms that are grounded and aren't dangerous, or that are old fluorescents; and c) there's a safety issue of failure of a dangerous tool tripping the light also, and plunging the tool user into the dark, whether it's a circular saw or curler, it's equally bad.  So there's an arguable case in bathrooms for not protecting more than the receptacle.

Often the use of LOAD terminals boils down to "I still have 2 extra wires, and I see those 2 extra screws to attach them to".  That's using LOAD lightly, just as the wizards warn about.

So I would absolutely not bust up their drywall to mess with cable runs.  Just remove everything off LOAD on that GFCI and put it on LINE.  At that point nothing can trip the GFCI except things plugged into the sockets.


Neutral wires or neutral and ground cause small “sparks” With the light switch off, I can touch the neutral and line, or ground and line or neutral and ground and not feel anything, no shock.

But if the two neutrals or neutral and ground touch/rub, they cause a static electricity type of spark.

What would be the cause of this and would this be why my bulbs constantly go out.

I’m getting 4.2v between the line and neutral/ground with the switch off.  Can’t feel it when touching both.

The neutral also goes to another light which is fed power by a third red, hot wire.

You keep saying "neutral and ground".  A common mistake is to believe they are the same thing -- after all, they're tied together back in the main panel, that's the same as tying them everywhere, right?  Nope.

Neutral is a working conductor: it is a normal current return path.  It "works for a living".  It's subject to voltage drop, for instance.  It must be tightly paired with the "hot" conductors so the wires' magnetic fields cancel each other out.

Equipment Ground is an emergency safety shield. Normal current must never flow over it!  Any current on ground is fault current and we certainly hope that is caught soon.

The purpose of the tie back at the main panel is equipotential bonding. The bond could be a car battery (intentional 12VDC bias between N and G); or a 2V transformer (2VAC offset between N and G) -- who cares -- the point is to bond neutral to be near earth, and thus keep hots within around 120/230V of earth - otherwise they could float/rattle at high voltages and be much more lethal.

So why the sparks?

Between the two neutrals, it's because there are downline loads being served by that neutral. When you sever a neutral, you cut off current flow, and the downline load "lifts" the neutral wire to 120V.  Now you have 120V across those two neutrals.  When you touch them together again, you complete the circuit and the downline load comes back on again.  The spark is small because it's current-limited by what the downline load will draw.

Between neutral and ground, it's because you have paralleled neutral and ground.  when you parallel 2 wires (don't), current flows in proportion to their conductivity.  The conductivity of neutral and ground are pretty close, so when you do that (don't), about half the current flows via ground instead of neutral. Again the downline load limits current, so the spark stays small.

Why is neutral and ground not precisely the same voltage?  Because neutral is workin' for a living, and ground is not. You're seeing voltage drop on the neutral, which since a neutral starts at 0V, tends to lift the neutral's voltage up a volt or two.   It's the same effect as a beam-style torque wrench: the heavy beam bends with the many foot-pounds of torque, but the indicator beam is under no strain, so remains straight.  The difference indicates torque.

If you knew the exact resistance of the neutral wire, you could compute current using that observed ground-neutral voltage difference "E", and known neutral resistance "R", plug them into E=IR and out pops I, your amps.

Oh yeah... your bulbs

Your problem is completely unrelated to this garden walk through the world of neutrals and bonding.  The readings you're asking about were a red herring, sorry.  Since you have a DVM, measure voltages on circuits in your house which work - as many as possible - and look for anything weird, especially some below 120V with others equally above 120V.


well pump will not fill pressure tank Just installed a Wayne WLS150 water sprinkler pump in addition to a 20 gallon pressure tank on our boat dock. The tank has a 40-60 pressure switch on it. Pump works well and pumps an enormous amount of water through a 1 inch poly discharge pipe. The problem is the tank never fills. The pressure gauge reads a constant 40 PSI. and runs constantly even if I shut the valve just beyond the tank. My research shows the pump specified discharge is 30 PSI @ 2700 gallons an hour. I'm thinking the pump does not supply enough pressure to fill the tank and is designed to operate on demand for sprinkler system.

I looked up the specs for your pump and it's a high volume irrigation pump, not a pressure pump.  It's not designed to build pressure. And why even bother with a 20 gal pressure tank? It might be able to build enough pressure for the pressure switch to shut it off if you lower it enough.
Your last sentence in your OP is correct.   If you are using it with an irrigation system and a controller, many can support a "master relay dry contact" to turn on the pump.
Edit:  Just re-read your question. What are you using the pump for on a boat dock?  To hose down the deck, hull, etc? Fill tanks for domestic water use? Hose down the dock?   Given the pump you have, you may have to install a simple disconnect to shut off the pump completely when not needed.


How to protect against shock from exposed romex? In my attic, the truss upright in the picture below is really the only hand-hold available when pulling oneself up the last few steps on the attic access stairs.  It has always bothered me that I have to wrap my hand around the exposed romex in order to fully enter my attic... but now that I've replaced my old broken (wooden) attic ladder with a new aluminum one, it bothers me even more.  If that romex ever gets damaged, and goes unnoticed, this could make for a rather unsafe situation.

I would like to do something to make this feel a little safer.  The light switch is where the builder put it, and that is really the only location that makes sense if you want someone to be able to turn on the light without having to fully enter the attic first.  (Might that be a code requirement?) Would it be OK to build a wooden race around the romex?  Or can you recommend some alternate solution?

If you don't have the option to install an alternative handhold, you could protect the cable using conduit.
WARNING: If you're not comfortable with electrical work, please contact a local licensed Electrician.
Supplies

Single gang electrical box, suitable for use with rigid PVC conduit.
A length of PVC conduit (10' of 1/2" should be fine).
A bag of PVC conduit clamps.
Conduit offsets if required
Cable staples

Procedure

Start by turning off the power to this circuit at the breaker, and verifying the power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Remove the cover from the electrical box, and remove the screws holding the switch in place.
Gently pull the switch from the box, leaving the wires attached .
Make a detailed sketch (or take a photo) of the existing wiring.
Remove each wire from the switch, labeling each as you go.
Remove any twist-on wire connectors (or other connectors), labeling all separated wires as you go.
Carefully remove any cable staples securing the cables to the 2x4.
Carefully pull the cables from the existing box.
Remove the existing box.
Measure and cut the PVC conduit.
Feed each cable through a length of conduit.
Feed the cables into the electrical box.
Connect the conduit to the box (NOTE: depending on the box, and how it's oriented, you may need offsets).
Install conduit clamps within 18" of the electrical box, and every 3' after that.
Install a cable staple within 12" of where the cable enters the conduit.
Install the switch using your notes, sketches, photos, and labels as a guide.
Install the box cover, and turn the power back on.


Inexpensive ideas to extend the height of my fence cinderblock wall outdoors I live in the desert and a local bud of  mine used landscape grade timbers that he attached vertically onto the cinderblock wall every 8ft. Then he laid outdoor rated privacy fabric over the timbers and stapled them along the wood timbers. And apparently, the fabric isn't drooping between these the studs as they is no horizontal structure supporting the fabric between the studs he placed every 8ft. So now his privacy went from being only 6ft tall to being 8ft tall. I'd like to do something similar but when I was at Home Depot I discovered that the 2'x4'x96" rated landscape timbers were over $10. I have approximately 300ft of length I want to cover so at that price it's going to get costly. Especially when you consider the cost of regular 8ft long 2x4's for interior use are about a fourth of the price.
Since I live in the desert and we only get on average 4-5" of rain per year can I get away with using interior wood and painting it with exterior grade paint to seal it? It does get hot here in the summer (can get to 121 degrees in summer) so not sure if I would have to worry about warping due to extreme heat. But since the timbers are going to be attached with tapcon like screws along a six foot tall wall only 2ft will be up above and unsupported and that would be the only area that could warp.
Would my idea of painting the wood to seal it work or are they more affordable suggestions?
By the way, here are two photos of his project. The first one was before and the second is after.

In my case, adding two feet of additional height will block all of my neighbors windows from looking right into mine.

Install 1/2" or  3/4 inch EMT tubing by drilling a 5/8" or 1 inch hole on top of the wall. Conduit cost under $4 and under $6 respectively for a 10 foot length.
the 3/4 inch can be spaced further than the 1/2". You could probably getaway with cutting each length in half (or 3rds) so as to get additional posts. Sink them 8-10 inches.
Attach the shade cloth with self tapping pan head screws.
Be aware of wall and fence maximum height codes in your municipality.


How can I uninstall this bathroom light fixture? Remodeling an older house and am trying to remove this bathroom light fixture without damaging the wallboard. Rectangular, horizontal fixture, 3 sockets across. seems to be an open-sided metal box with wood trim around the front. Top and bottom slide into the wall cavity between 2- 2x4's. I can only get it to pull out about 1 1/2 inches. No spring tabs that I can feel and no lip on top or bottom. Tried using a putty knife along the edge but no luck. Sockets don't unscrew to allow it to come out and there are no screws around the edges. Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks

no brand name. probably from the 80's

Is there a metal shell around each socket? Pull each shell outward to remove it from the socket. Then you should be able to remove the rectangular cover plate, after which you'll see all the connections and mounting screws.


Underlayment for a roof valley? should I put underlayment? Should I put underlayment on the entire valley and then put the ice/water shield over it?
Should I put the ice/water shield directly onto the wood of the osb valley then staple the underlayment within 6 inches of the center of the valley?

I've seen photos by GAF where it seems the ice/water shield is stuck on top of underlayment?

Which is best?

Many thanks

You must install the shingles according to the manufacturer’s recommendations or you’ll void the warranty.

GAF, just like all roofing manufacturers, recommend the “peel and stick” membrane to be applied first. There’s many reasons for this, but ice buildup and wind blown rain are the main reasons.

By the way, do not stop the underlayment 6” from the valley, as you describe. Extend the underlayment THROUGH the valley and weave it into the other side of the roof.


Cracked grout and leak in shower side wall - short and long-term fix given foundation work? There is extensive cracking in the grout along the upper portion of our shower side-wall, both inside and outside of our shower. We've also noticed a leak in the shower wall, likely due to the fact that water pooling on the upper inside portion of the side wall enters cracks in the grout, exiting on the outside of the half wall along another crack (see images, with region where water exits the wall circled and arrows pointing to flow of water droplets onto the floor). Given that we don't know the materials used in constructing this side wall we are foreseeing water damage and potentially mold issues, and sadly assume we'll have to tear down and rebuild.

The bathroom is located in a portion of the house that has significantly settled. We are awaiting a permit for foundation work to correct the problem (across the entire house), with the project likely completed by the end of 2020. Given that we are planning on foundation work, which may affect the relative height of different portions of the house, I wanted to ask:

1) is there a viable short term solution to this problem? I was thinking of re-grouting the inside of the shower to prevent further water intrusions

2) if re-grouting is an option, what might be the best material to use? There is a range of the gap widths (1/8 to 1/4"), with some sections poorly fixed with what appears to be caulk

3) is it better to delay any remodeling work (for long-term fix) to later when the foundation work has been completed?

I've included a couple of links to posts that discuss related problems, including best practices in re-grouting showers and a discussion of water damage.

cracking shower grout - discussion 1

drywall damage - discussion 1

A short term solution is to build a water tight covering over the wall (assuming the shower pan is functioning).
An example (functional and ugly) is to glue FRP Wall Board ,connectors and caulk.

cut FRP Wall Board to size
glue FRP Wall Board with caulk to existing wall
caulk all joints generously

when redoing the ledge add a greater slope towards the shower


How do I determine why a sealed central heating system is losing pressure? I'm currently trying to deal with a sealed central heating system in which the pressure is dropping by 0.2–0.3 bar per day (this is obviously far too fast, because the intended pressure for this system is 1 bar). Although I intend to call in a plumber to fix the issue, it seems important to find out the location of the problem first, so that the plumber can access the appropriate place to fix it (e.g. if the problem is under the floor, there's a need to move floorboards to provide access).

One common cause of this appears to be a malfunction in the pressure release valve. However, on one occasion after a loss of pressure, the circulating pump in the system was running continuously and (based on the sound it was making) failing to pump water; this was almost certainly because the water level had fallen below the location of the pump. The pressure release valve is higher than the pump is; does that mean that the pressure release valve can't be responsible (on the basis that the pump should be underwater even if the pressure release valve were opened entirely), or is it possible that the water in the system could fail to reach the pump despite the only issue being with the pressure release valve?

The other possible issue is a leak, but I haven't been able to locate the leak, if indeed there is one. Is there any technique that can be used to determine where the leak is? One thing I tried was to leave the system off for several days and then attempt to bleed an upstairs radiator – on the basis that a leak below the radiator should make it impossible to bleed due to the lack of pressure – but air still seems to be coming out. Would that test automatically rule out a leak below the radiator, or might it still be bleedable even with a leak below it?

One piece of information would be helpful would be the approximate rate (in terms of volume/time) at which I can expect the water to be leaking out; this would aid both in identifying a leak (because it would predict what the leak would look like), and in determining how long to wait before testing to see if the radiators were still bleedable.

Check the expansion bladder has correct precharge pressure: with boiler barometer at 0bar air pressure inside the bladder should be 1 bar.
Also check the automatic de-aerator are working properly (maybe thosae are clogged by limestone or just failed): if those fail to discharge air outside air could build up inside the system and act, de facto, as if there is no water.


Can open-bottom septic tanks get full? Our house has one of those two-chambered standard (Philippines) open-bottom septic tanks. I think it's also called a cesspool.

I got into a discussion with someone on whether it can get full. Their argument is that, since it's open, the sewage can drain freely into the ground. My response is that the solid waste would build up over time.

I tried to research it online, but I can't find any information specific to open-bottomed septic tanks, other than pages and pages of "How to know when your septic tank is full" results.

Do they become full? If so, why and around how long?

Once it gets close to the top, you hire a company with a « sludge gulper » to come and empty it.

Had a house with a septic tank and it had clay pipes which had shifted over time so had to empty the tank, repair and replace pipe.

Once done it worked fine.


Did I do the right thing putting small stones under my deck? I bought a foreclosure house last year (built in 1987), there is a tall deck at the back, and backyard is slightly sloped away from the house.

The deck was rebuilt from scratch before put on market (I imagine/guess the old deck might be in unsafe state? and thus need to be rebuilt; deck was painted dark-brown right after install, I saw some legs go vertical cracks from top to bottom)
During heavy rain, downspout at the back corner of my house was flowing out water (small rain fine, tried to unclog, no much help)

Those two things gave me some worry of water issue. (why the old deck became bad and neighbor's deck was fine? could it be due to watering issue underneath the deck causing the ground soft and old deck sank?)
Not seeing any leakage sign at the walkout-basement, but I somehow wanted to do some improvement to keep water away from foundation.

My neighbor got a tall deck, but under it there were a layer of stones (3”). I thought those stones were helping the area under the deck to be dry and avoid any water buildup around the foundation.

So I wanted to learn from my neighbor. But due to some issues, I ended up buying smaller stones (1” round), and I thought it might be a good idea to lay a layer of plastic sheet under the stones to prevent water sinking to the ground, so I did that.

Now my question is:

Did I worry too much and did the wrong/opposite thing? Water might actually not flow away due to the small stones keeping water underneath?
If I did wrong, what should I do now? Should I remove all the gravels? Should I dig a french pipe along the foundation wall?
Thanks so much.

Your downspout extension may be installed incorrectly. It appears that the black pipe coming out of the hill is not sloped properly and is causing water to pool inside of the pipe.

Since the pipe is not draining properly, organic debris such as leaves will clog the pipe and render it inoperable. Since water takes the path of least resistance, it will back up and then come out of the bottom of your downspout instead of out the extension.

The stones are not doing very much, and they are mostly decorative. Many people put stone, or some other kind of ground cover under their decks because it prevents weeds and grass from growing.

If you want to keep the stone there, I would recommend removing the plastic tarp from underneath it and replacing it with landscaping fabric. The fabric will allow water to drain through, and prevent weeds from growing. That way, you would be able to reduce the amount of maintenance in that area.


What is wrong with my gas furnace? Note: the below was solved. It was a loose wire between the controller and the gas valve (the white wire on the diagram)

This is about an old UltraMax Olsen HCS2 81AD gas furnace

it looks like this

and it sounds like this :-) when it is having problems

Here is what happened this morning. I waked up hearing the a noise that was coming from the furnace. I wend downstairs to the furnace room and it was making a sound like this (click to download a small mp3).
I switched the furnace off and I went upstairs to get my phone to take pictures and record the sound. When I returned I tried to start the furnace one more time and it started. It worked for a little while and it stopped again making the same sound
I switched the furnace off again and went upstairs to read a little bit about it (we bought the house this summer and I don't know much about it) and when I returned I started the furnace again. I think it worked again till it reached the temperature set on the thermostat and it stopped again making the same sound.

I am now waiting for it "to rest" :-) and I will start it again but with an increased temperature. It was set to 21.5 before, now it is set to 23 ..I want to see what it is going to do this time

Now the questions for you guys:
-can you say by the little info provided here what is going on?
-can anybody tell me what would be the cost to replace the furnace (I live in Toronto) and if it is worth replacing it? I would be curious to hear what are the main advantages that the newer models have over this ancient model (1988)

Y9u can listen to the sound it makes online here


I ran out of propane and now the water heater pilot light will not stay lit I had run out of propane. Now that I have propane, I can’t get the pilot light to stay lit on my water heater, nor will it stay lit even long enough to light the burner.

Click for larger view:

I have had similar problems in the past when running out, what I found is I had to hold the pilot for several minutes to get the lines full of propane again. I found it easiest to light the stove top or try until it would burn then I went to the furnace and water heater it still took a few minutes as the pilot is a very small draw but once the lines had properly purged I had no problems after that, it was like some air was in the lines would light burn funny and go out, once I got a solid flame the problem was solved.


how to drill aligned holes in steel pipe? I need to accurately drill multiple holes in steel pipe (1.25-2" diameter, 65-100 mil wall thickness, about 10ft long).    I need to drill a half-dozen or so evenly-spaced aligned pairs of holes all the way through the pipe.    So the two holes in each pair need to be diametrically opposite.   And the pairs need to be radially-aligned - I'm not sure how best to describe this: maybe, if a line is drawn through each pair of holes, those lines should all be parallel (to each other).

Is it possible to do this with reasonable accuracy using home tools, or is a machine shop necessary (e.g. a milling machine) ?   How ?

P.S. For background: I want to extend the height of a wood railing (it consists of multiple 2x2 balusters with a 2x6 board at the top).   I plan to do this by screwing 3/8 x 10" hanger bolts into the top of the 2x6.  Then attach the steel pipe to the machine-threaded top of the hanger bolts, with acorn nuts at the top and hex nuts underneath the steel pipe.   This is my solution to: extend height of wooden railing.   Once the pipe is drilled, I can then use it as a jig for drilling the pilot holes in top of the 2x6 (for the tapered-thread end of the hanger bolts).   Perhaps I should consider wooden dowel instead of steel pipe; easier to drill, and cheaper (when I screw up).

Looks like this project has two main issues - getting all the through-holes in the same plane on the pipe, and making a straight hole all the way through a pipe.

To draw a straight line on the pipe, you can set the 2" pipe on the flat ground (like the floor of a garage) and place a common (straight) 1x4 board next to it.  Run a marker along the corner formed by the board touching the pipe and you'll have a straight line.

For drilling the straight holes, you can either buy a drill press (random example) or you can make a jig.  The drill press is pretty self explanatory, so here's an idea for a jig.

 Drill bit
   !
  _!_ top plate
 | ! |
 | ! |
 | ! |
 |_!_| bottom plate
 |/ \| - hole for pipe
_|\_/|_ footing
_______

Now, with my amazing artwork out of the way....  You make this structure with some 2x4 lumber and use a steel plate (thin is fine) on the top of the "top plate" and "bottom plate". The total hight of the jig will be about 11".  The square at the bottom should be just big enough for the pipe to fit in to keep it centered.  Get a 12" long drill bit and drill through the jig as straight as possible measuring as much as you can.  This pilot hole will make or break your jig.  The steel sheets/plates will help keep the bit centered over the long run but are optional if you don't have many holes to drill (the wood of the jig will waller out after repeated use). If you can get a perfectly straight hole, you should be good to go!  insert the pipe and get to drilling.


What size ceiling fan lightbulb is this I want to replace the bulbs in my ceiling fan with brighter (hopefully LED) bulbs.  I can't find anything that says what type of bulb this is though.  The fixture has the numbers E307732 and 48A8 WG-17 printed on it.  The only thing printed on the bulb is "SEC115-125V40W China".  The bulb diameter seems to be about 1 3/8", and the base diameter is around 9/16" to 5/8" (I'm having a hard time measuring the base).

Hard to tell in a photo, but looks like an E17 to me.  Smaller than Edison E26, larger than candelabra.  If the base screws are around 17mm, there ya go.

Tricky size to find LEDs in, not impossible but your choices may be limited.


Why does the breaker keep tripping on a circuit with two rooms' lights and a sewer pump? I have a circuit-breaker that is connected to lights in two rooms, and to a sewer pump in the basement.  I had the sewer cleaned out and the pump inspected, and no problems were detected.  I then had a new breaker switch installed.  However, the new switch keeps tripping as well.  This was not a problem for many years, so something has changed to create the problem.

What is the likely solution to this problem?

Sewer pump should be hooked up to GFCI.  So that is the first step - change out the outlet to a GFCI.  The reason this will help you is first it is code in some places and second if the pump is the culprit then it will pop the GFCI outlet.

Also is this a 20 or 15 amp circuit.  Some sewer pumps are rated for 20 amps and above.  I actually have almost the exact same situation in my basement.  And the pump does flip the breaker every once in a while.  You are lucky to have lights on them.  We had a couple outlets and one powered our deep freezer.

So get a GFCI.  You could have a short - so look at the connections for everything.  Then the last thing is look at the panel.  If it is 15 Amp you might need to take the pump off the circuit and run a 20 amp line for it with 12 gauge wire...


Single pole 120 v thermostat I want to use a thermostat to control a 40 watt. I am using the bulb to heat the inside of a small green house. The temperature must stay in the range of 75 TO 79 degrees.  I want to use 120 v and not a low voltage thermostat. What do you recommend?

StackExchange is not for product recommendations.   However, any of the simple, mechanical $13 "mains wiring" 240V type thermostats should suffice, and a 1-pole unit will suffice.   (On 2-pole, only one one pole is switched thermostatically, the other is simply an off switch.   They mount in a standard junction box.

Do not use an incandescent bulb when you want a heater, it is cruel: incandescents burn out randomly and then the poor creature suffers until you notice to replace it. Use a heater.  Catalogs like McMaster-Carr and Grainger sell lots and lots of heating components.

You can either use a 120V heater of your desired wattage, or a 240V heater of four times the wattage.  For instance if you want 50W and you see a heater that is perfect except for being 240V and 200W, that will do exactly what you want: draw 50W if you connect it to 120V.


How To Replace Broken Light Junction Box in Ceiling When I opened the door to my storage closet I discovered the light fixture hanging.
The junction box has broken at the two screw mounts and the ceiling around it is fully drywalled.
This is in a basement so there is no access to the junction box from above.
How do I remove the junction box and replace it without a major repair to the drywall around it?

If you don't see any obvious screws that secure the junction box to the ceiling or side joist, you can do "dental work" to carefully demolish the old box, cutting it up with snips, nipper, vibrating tool or a Dremel.  Then you'll have a 4" round hole in the ceiling.  Then you can install an "old work" box to the joist or whatever attachment point is available, or simply to the drywall itself using certain types of "old work" boxes.  Use a lightweight, low profile fixture that you're not likely to bash into.


Is this closet wall load bearing? Wanting to remove this closet that is by my front door. Nervous that the wall that is parallel to the door is wall bearing. First time renovating.

[![enter image description here][1]][1]

[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/HdXz4.jpg

From the 2 images you've attached, this is not a load bearing group of walls. Feel free to remove all 3 of them.


Reconnect an outlet that has 3 cables I disconnected the wires in a working outlet in my house (built 2001) while replacing the termite damaged studs.  I forgot to document the wiring and now I am having problem putting the wires back. There are 3 sets of cables in the outlet box. Cable A and B have white, black, and ground. Cable C has white, black, red, and ground. On the same wall, there are another outlet and a triple switch panel.

I tried to pigtail all the blacks together and put them into screw #3; all the whites pig tailed into screw #1; and red wire to screw #4. When I turned the power back on the circuit breaker tripped and I decided to stop and seek help!  Thank you in advance for any suggestion.

There are multiple combinations possible.

From what you have said so far here is what I am thinking:

Cable A or B is the hot feed from the main panel.
The other cable, either A or B is the feed to the other receptacle.
Cable C is the feed to the switches and the red wire is the switched hot wire returning from one of the switches.

It sounds like at least one receptacle in the room was switched for a floor lamp. It doesn't have to be split wired both plugs on the receptacle could be switched.

It could be the receptacle in your drawing or the other or both. The switched hot should be the red wire. If you connect the red wire to a receptacle you should not connect a black wire. Unless you are going to remove the connecting tab on the hot side of the receptacle and split wire the receptacle.

You should take some voltage readings to determine which cable is the hot feed from the panel. Then, with the circuit shut off, you can use the resistance or continuity setting of the meter to determine which cable goes where and which wire is which.

Good luck!


How far away from the wall should ceiling heat registers be? I'm installing ceiling heating registers.  Are they required to be a certain distance from the wall?

Place them wherever the cold comes in. Under windows is preferred, but if it has to be over them, well so be it. Same for exterior doors too. The principle is if you put registers too far away from the cold source, one side of the room will be cold, the other will be warm. So stop the cold at its source.

Now to answer your question. Since window treatments are always part of a design, make sure the registers are out far enough so they are not blocked by the window treatments.
7" has been the standard for all the jobs I had worked on. The only exception has been when a designer has spec'ed heavier than normal drapes, so they would be set sometimes out as far as 9"


Installing panel off the meter box through 60A breaker I am installing a 60 amp (main lug) panel (240v) from the meter panel 75 feet. I plan to use copper buried in PVC conduit using 3- #6 thhn and one bare solid #8 ground.  I will install 2 grounding rods 10' apart in the detached building. I see lots of sub-panel installation info. How is the grounding to be connected and what precautions (if any) should I take when connecting the neutral?
Any additional advice is greatly appreciated.
I want to have everything ready for the inspector. Thank you.

I think you're 90% "on it", but there are a few yellow-flags I see. Don't infer that I think it's a bad plan; like I say you're 90% there.

"60A panel" - Go BIG.

The future happens. A very common question here is "I ran out of breaker spaces in my panel. What can I do?"  And that has a sad and expensive answer.  (Other than "Go back in time to when you bought the panel, and spend a few latté's more on a panel with a lot more spaces", but we're not allowed to say that.)

Since the panel is main-lug (no main breaker), that means "60A" refers to the busing.  That implies this is a very, very small panel.  So let me tell you now: Spend a few latté's more on a lot more spaces.

Beware "X space / Y circuit". The "circuits" number is a lie. It relies on "double-stuff" breakers. NEC 2014, 2017 and 2020 have wiped those out, by requiring AFCI and GFCI on so many circuits. Those aren't available in double-stuffs.

"Gotcha 5x5. I'll use this 18-space panel. But it's rated 200A! My breaker is 60A."  Right, the 60A is an absolute amp limit on the panel. Like HR-rated tires are rated 112 mph, or CRJ-200 airliners are rated for 41,000 foot altitude.  That doesn't make it a best-practice!

So you are absolutely free to feed a 100, 125, 200 or 225A panel from a 60A breaker.

60A on #6 copper THHN aka THWN

Actually, because you are running THWN, you are allowed a 70A breaker.  (Technically you are allowed 65A, but you are also allowed to round up to the next offered breaker size).

Also, #4 aluminum is the right stuff; on a heavy or long run, copper is a waste of money, with two exceptions: a)  if you have to splice in a box, rules for #6 are easier to follow than #4. And b) it may require larger diameter conduit, but PVC conduit is so cheap that aluminum is sure to win that one.

There's some ooga-booga about aluminum out there, but that was about a) the obsolete AA-1350 alloy, b) used on small 15-20A branch circuits with c) terminals not properly rated for aluminum.  In your case you'll be using AA-8000 on a heavy feeder, on aluminum-rated lugs, that probably are aluminum.

Your ground wire only needs to be bare #10 copper or insulated #8 aluminum. Yes, I know they make prefab cables with ground -2 sizes from the conductors; don't use that as a guide because there's no Code basis for doing that. Shrug... maybe it's a UL requirement because it's a cable.  (a 1/1/1/6 might be too brittle?)

Main breaker! Main breaker!

I almost forgot. You're specifying a main-lug panel which means no main breaker.  Stop and see if it's an outbuilding.  (if it's connected with a breezeway, it is not an outbuilding). Outbuildings require main disconnects.

You can have a separate disconnect switch if you really want to, but usually, the most cost-expedient way to get a disconnect switch is to get one "built into the panel with a number on it".  I.E. get a main-breaker panel instead, and let the main breaker be the disconnect switch and ignore the number on it.

Of course you want main breaker larger or equal than the supply breaker (otherwise you're wasting feeder).  Now some people get the idea "if I make them equal, the nearby one will trip first and save me walking". No, it won't, both because of Murphy's Law and the way trip curves differ somewhat on main vs feeder breakers.


HVAC Fan set to ON position also turns on A/C unit Outside A/C unit turns ON when Fan is switched to ON position.  This is a problem because when the thermostat calls for heat  it turns ON the Fan which also turns on the A/C unit.

The A/C unit is not a heat pump.

The System consists of a Honeywell 9000 Wifi thromostat, Traine XL1200 A/C unit, and Aprilaire 500 Humidifier.  All the wires are connected to like colors except the A/C unit which has a red and white wire from the outside unit connected to Yellow and White in the junction box where all the thermostat wires are connected together.   I checked the panel on the air handler, thermostat and humidifier and wires are connected as follows:

Red wire connects to R and Rc

Blue wire connects C

Yellow wire connects to Y

White wire connects to W

Green wire connects to G

The humidifier has 2 more wires connected to the solenoid valve and a jumper from R to H to tap the 24v supply from the air handler.

Where or how do I start to trouble shoot for a short?

The problem is that "all G wires are connected together"

According to the Aprilaire 500 installation guide the Green wire should go from the thermostat to the G on the Humidifier.

Then from the Humidifier Gi output to G on the Furnace.

This facilitates the "Test" feature for the humidifier which turns the Fan on during the test and also allows the Humidifier to run in Fan "ON" and Fan "Circulate" modes.


Reliable, inexpensive way to be notified of a water leak? I have a few places in my home that I really, really don't want water to be. I've had bad experiences with water in the past (read: whole-house flooding from an upstairs toilet valve), and I'd like to make sure I can catch a slow (or even fast) leak before it becomes a huge pain.

There are a few places that I'm suspicious of, namely a couple sinks, the line running into a refrigerator, etc. We currently have some water alarms that beep when they detect water, but that won't help much if I'm not at home and thus can't hear the beep.

What's a reliable, long term, cheap way to get notified (SMS, push notification, IFTTT action, etc) of a water leak?

Apart from notification, cut off the main water line when detecting a leak. For example WaterCop. It may connect to your existing automation system; see their FAQ:

  WaterCop systems are equipped with auxiliary input/output contacts and
  can be wired into your existing home automation system with simple low
  voltage wiring (wiring not included). Please consult your security
  system manual or installation professional for details on other
  systems.

I haven't used any such system.


Eliminating sweet scented paint smell? We just bought a home with a mother-in-law suite.  The suite has an overpowering sweet scent like commercial air freshener.
I've checked every outlet and switch, and conclude they must have added a scented product to the high gloss wall and ceiling paint.
I'd hate to paint it, then find the scent bleeds through the new paint.
It's disgustingly sweet.  Options? Interior sandblasting?  Chemical wash?

You may be able to rent an ozone generator, or hire an odor remediation contractor with one. Those are used to nullify various odors by generating highly reactive ozone (O3 rather than O2) which aggressively oxidizes whatever it encounters before naturally decaying (if it can't find anything else to react with, 2 O3 can get together to make 3 O2.)
Ozone is not healthy for people to breathe, so follow all safety precautions if using an ozone generator, but they are a highly effective way of neutralizing odors.


What kind of tool can I use to tighten a faucet bolt in a tight place? I am trying to tighten a kitchen faucet bolt (7/16 inch) in a very tight spot. Please refer to the picture.

Standard size wrenches don't fit well enough for me to turn it.  I've used a stubby wrench but I can't get any leverage because of the tight spot.  I bought a set of flex head rachet wrenches, but they keep slipping off.  I also tried a basin wrench, but it keeps slipping off and is very hard to attach.

Do you recommend any other tools that would work?  Would an offset wrench work or an adjustable flex head wrench work?  I just don't want to keep collecting tools that I won't use!

Thanks for your help :)

I think that is a standard application for a "crows foot" wrench.


Are there any built in cabinet 'kits' available? I am wanting to do cabinets between a wall and a fireplace. This would separate our living room from our dining room, so I want to build media cabinets (A/V equipment, DVD shelves, and a full ceiling to floor 'closet' to store big equipment like Rock Band guitars. On the opposite side, the dining room, I want to have a counter for serving, and then upper cabinets have glass fronts for display (china, etc..). I think that maybe this is beyond my skill, so I was wondering if there were any kits out there that would easily let you change dimensions, change layouts, etc..

Here is a picture of the space I want to occupy. I am standing in my living room looking into the dining room:

Also, what do I do with the angled ceiling, what kind of cabinetry or filler do I put there? Should I build a wall first (I hate the thought of loosing 4-5" of depth. Any thoughts?

If you are not averse to designing/building the cabinets yourself, it is not a terribly difficult project to execute.  You don't even need a wood shop, only a few select tools.

Seek out a local full service lumberyard or specialty wood shop (not a big box store, a real lumberyard).  If you bring a cut list of panels that you need, they will usually charge only a nominal fee to break down the plywood sheets for you.  This will save you from trying to accurately cut all of the large sheet stock (if you do not have the capacity to do so yourself).

At the lumber yard, you can also purchase dimensional stock to produce the face frames for the cabinets.

At this point, all you should need is a miter saw to break down the wood for the frames, a pocket hole jig for the assembly, and the hardware/hinges/etc.

When it comes to the doors, you have a couple of choices.  You can follow the same kind of pattern above (purchase dimensional stock, buy an entry level router / rail and stile bit / edging bit, have the lumber yard break down the inner panels for you).  Alternatively, you can order unfinished custom cabinet doors online.  All you need is the dimensions for the doors, and then you can just choose the style you want.

Of course, this will take a significant effort to design the cabinets specifically for your space, and it will take some time for you to assemble them and work out all the issues.  It all really depends on your schedule vs. how much you want to spend.  Doing it all yourself will save you money, but will take a good bit longer than hiring the job out or grabbing off-the-shelf cabinets.


Antique Faucet replacement I’m having serious issues replacing an antique faucet stem on old old claw foot tub.
The hot water nozzle slowly leaks and I can’t find a replacement stem or even a washer that would fit. I emailed Faucet Parts Plus and they replied we have nothing that matches. Does anyone have any suggestions?
The picture is the cold water cartridge which is the one that works. I need a hot water cartridge/stem. (It looks as though it was cobbled together with a different washer to slow the leak) 12 spline.

Most hardware stores will be able to find a match. Bring the stem with you. There are usually many replacements in stock. If not the usually have a plumbing parts book or software they can look up the specifications and then special order it for you. It may be helpful to take a picture of the faucet if they want more information.


Mitre Circular Saw blades for cutting Oak floorboards I have two different blades (which are almost new) for my mitre saw.  One has 24 teeth, the other has 48 teeth.

Which blade should I be using to cut oak floor boards?

I'd use the 24 tooth blade, but be sure it is a carbide type and sharp. Since all your cuts are end cuts and will be covered with baseboard trim, so getting an ultra smooth cut is not that important. Obviously, you don't want to see any large chips on the cut edge, so do your cuts slowly and smoothly. Save your 48 blade for visible finish cuts on softer wood. If you do plan to do any precise finish work, moldings etc, consider investing in an 80 tooth blade for that type of work.  Good Luck.


Is it safe to use a water pump without a ground wire? I am using a submersible water pump whose plug  has only 2 prongs. I'm assuming the third 'ground' prong is missing. I also doubt if there is any fuse or circuit breaker inside it as it is an absolutely cheap and unmarked pump.

I want to use it to supply a garden hose which involves putting the pump in a bucket full of water. The elaborate system which I plan to use involves a whole network of PVC pipes which is connected to this hose.

Can anything go wrong or can a fault develop after lots of use which can give me a shock?

Also what precautions must I take?

Alright.  Your first problem is the "cheap and unmarked" part -- two prong appliances can be safe, but only if they are "double insulated" or Class II.  Such an appliance will have a square-within-a-square symbol on its model number label, alongside any testing marks that may have been applied.

Since this pump of yours lacks any independent equipment testing, labeling, or listing, I wouldn't trust it to not shock you any further than I could kick it.  A dedicated residual current device/ground fault interrupter designed for personnel protection (i.e. 5mA trip threshold, nominal, with trip timing as per UL943 Class A or your country's equivalent standard) would be highly recommended in this application; even if the pump does try to zap you, the RCD/GFI would trip and cut off the current before a serious shock could take place.

Also, next time -- please don't get the cheapest pump you find at the bottom of the barrel!  Cheap, unlabeled crap is cheap, unlabeled crap because of the safety-compromising shortcuts that are taken during design and manufacture.


How to replace a small halogen bulb in outdoor accent fixture that my fingers barely fit into? Any ideas on how to replace a small halogen bulb in an outdoor wall accent light. The bulbs are small and the light cups are long and low to my planter I can't see and can barely get my fingers up in them.

You need a suction cup

Electrical lighting fixtures with recessed bulbs often come with a suction cup. It's a odd device to have in the package if you don't realize it's purpose so they often get thrown away with the packaging. Fast forward a year or two and you need to change the bulb.

That's where these come in handy
www.amazon.com

You simply push it against the bulb and twist. They come in a variety of styles and even come with extensions to change ceiling fixtures from the floor without a ladder or stool.


Do products like Ditra make tile removal more complicated? Products like DITRA are great to use when installing tile, but I can't help wondering what it'll be like to remove the tile later.  Is it more difficult to remove tile that's been laid on this type of product, or does it actually make tile removal easier?

Tile is generally installed as a permanent fixture.  Removal is intended to be difficult - in fact easy removal is a clear indicator that the installation wasn't done well.  The sub-material is often destroyed in the removal process because of the force necessary for removal of the product.

DITRA, being textured, would hold onto the mortar used to mount the tile.  The only thing more complicated about demo where DITRA is involved is it's one more layer to be removed.


Why are there 2 wires taped together? 2 white and 2 black I'm switching out all my outlets and found that every white and black wire has an additional one taped to it. What is the reason for this and should I redo the connections with caps?

That's known as a pigtail. A black and white wire come in to feed the box, a black and white wire leave the box to feed something else. They are connected together with that short piece to feed the outlet. It's easier than messing with 4 wires in and out of the outlet and replacing outlets is easier.
Those connections should be redone with wire nuts and the connections to the outlets should be on the screws, not the backstabs. Shepherd hook the Black wire to brass screw, white wire to silver screw. If those wires are aluminum you'll need special outlets and block connectors.


Is it possible to earthquake-proof furniture when you have plaster walls? Is it possible to earthquake-proof furniture (e.g. tall bookshelves) when you have plaster walls?

I was dissuaded from attaching to studs by an employee at a local hardware shop, while at the same time he sold me the nails/screws required to hang a decently heavy picture frame and a closet rod to the same wall type. I understand the forces are different, but is stud-attaching and 45 degree angles suddenly a waste of time when it comes to earthquake proofing with plaster walls? I'm not even looking for permanent security, just something that at best can just buy a little more time in case of an emergency.

FEMA Earthquake Prep

According to the PDF, page 5-3

  Figure 2 shows methods to anchor heavy, tall furniture to
  vertical wall studs, concrete, or  masonry with steel angle
  brackets.
  Fasten heavy objects to the building structure and not just
  to a movable wall in your home or office.
  Even large, heavy objects that appear stable should be
  secured to the wall.  The heavier the furniture, the stronger
  the restraints need to be.  A heavily loaded file cabinet
  requires much stronger restraints to keep it from
  overturning than a light file cabinet with the same
  dimensions.

Plaster walls in this case are no different from drywall walls. The strength is in the vertical 2x4 structure, not the materials used to make it pretty.

Secure the furniture to the wall studs and at the floor if you can. Keep tall items away from beds and door and keep a flashlight close by.


Are my wires in this junction box too short? This my first attempt at a junction box .  I am kind of worried the wires are too short.  They are all in the push connectors. Is this safe?

The work is solid with a few exceptions.

Yes, that's too short.  You should be leaving 9-12 inches.  The legal minimum is 6" past the clamp, or able to reach 3" beyond the finished wall surface.  It can seem cluttery, but cluttery is good.

Are you using a book on electrical?  The book would tell you this. People learning electrical work best when they have a general overview of all aspects - a primer if you will. Google can't substitute because Google only answers questions, and without a well rounded set of concepts, it's hard to know all the questions  you should be asking.

You will need to replace all three legs, and you will be better off doing it now, rather than waiting until the drywall is up, you are doing any kind of maintenance, and you are forced to improvise.  Remove the old cables carefully and you can reuse them - maybe even for each other.

These push connectors are particularly problematic with short wires, because it is annoying/difficult to wrest the wires out of the push connectors, so people usually just snip them.   You'll want even more length for that.

Some people get snipper-happy and go out of their way to cut wires as short as they can.  Perhaps they think there are brownie points for that... Code does mention "neat and workmanlike", but functionality and maintainability come  before neatness. Another trouble spot is the panel - it's in vogue to go snip-snip*, but for maintainability, you should give every circuit enough length so both hot and neutral can reach every breaker position in the box.

You need to ground the box also.  Most boxes have a threaded 10-32 hole in the back for a ground screw. Some are on dimples so they work flush against a surface, look for that feature in boxes.  They sell special green #10-32 ground screws.  But any will do.  Do not use a deck screw or sheetmetal screw unless it is cut -32 thread or finer.

Rather than spend a big budget on connectors, I would recommend using wire nuts instead.  Not least because you can take apart wire nuts and reassemble them.  But even more, because wire nuts produce reliable connections, and push connectors - like any backstab - are notorious for series arcing and failure.  At least you are in a metal box, which will contain all but the worst series arcing.

I also see where you have knocked out two additional knockouts.  You need to fill those with knockout plugs. Those are trivial cost, about a buck for five.  Alternately, if you are expecting more cables to come in, you are painted into a corner with those push connectors.

Assuming you'll have 5 cables, it's time to start talking about box fill.  If the box is getting too crowded, you can get either box extensions or "mud rings" which provide some additional cubic inches.  On the Web there are "official" tables and calcs for box fill, but if  you are leaving yourself 9-12" of wire, you'll know when boxes are getting crowded.  The takeaway is that extensions (and larger boxes) are available.

My signature box when I have >5 cables converging is the 4-11/16 square x 2-1/8 (120 x 55mm) which I buy at electrical supply houses, where they are much cheaper.

* check out this disaster of a box.  Looks purdy, but now add a generator interlock and a whole house surge suppressor: those need to go on top, so every breaker must move down 2 spaces.  That expensive subpanel cable definitely will not reach, ouch!  And then, when they add GFCI or AFCI to some breakers, none of the neutrals can reach.  But he leaves lots of slack for the short service line (why?) Also, the panel is completely full, so it was a poor choice.


Is there a problem in putting an oven over the microwave oven? I have an electric oven and a microwave oven. I used to keep the microwave on top of the old refrigerator. Now I've got a taller new refrigerator, and I read it's not safe to keep the microwave oven over the refrigerator. Besides, I shouldn't keep warm stuff near the refrigerator.

Is it safe to keep the electric oven on top of the microwave oven? I'm not expecting to use them both at the same time. The electric oven has small legs that keep it about 3 cm away from the surface. Is this ventilation good enough? As I said, since I'm not going to use them at the same time, one of them will always be cold while the other one is working.

Do you still have the microwave manual? In there it should give the minimum clearances for the oven. These will be required to allow for sufficient airflow around the microwave so that it doesn't overheat.

If it's 3 cm or less (which is unlikely) then you'll be OK.

For the more likely case of it being more than 3 cm, why don't you build a shelf at the right height above the microwave and sit the oven on that?


What do volts and amps imply for angle grinders? I have several home improvement projects that would be made enormously easier if I had a decent angle grinder with both grinding and cutting wheels to attach to it. But I've never used or bought one before. Arbitrarily, going to Lowes (not that I am endorsing Lowes in any way shape or form here), and arbitrarily picking Dewalt as a brand:

  http://www.lowes.com/Search=angle+grinder?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=angle+grinder#!&N%5B%5D=0&N%5B%5D=1z136s7

Some models seem to focus on amps, and some seem to focus on voltage. This is confusing to me, as I would have expected the main rating on a grinder to be, say, torque or RPM. So I ask:

When does one care about the amp rating on an angle grinder, and why?
When does one care about the volt rating on an angle grinder, and why?
Are these the only two quality metrics that really matter for angle grinders?

Electric angle grinders are very useful tools, they can also be extremely dangerous. First and foremost, select a tool with as many of the latest safety features as you can afford:

an integral clutch that disengages the drive-line upon wheel bind
a "slow-start" or "soft-start" feature
NO "lock-on" button
a "deadman" trigger or lever feature (shuts off if you let go)
an easily adjustable guard (no tools required)
auto-braking

Buy gloves, goggles and dust mask when you buy the tool

Amps indicate the power that the motor draws during use and generally indicates the size and power of the motor (higher is "better"). I personally think a well built tool with the features I want and which is comfortable for me to hold and use is more important than the amp rating. If you are routinely grinding and cutting thick heavy hard metal materials you might consider a bigger/more powerful machine.

Voltage should be whatever your household current is (220-240vt angle grinder would not be practical for home or general shop use, pretty much industrial only)


How should I hook up this phone jack? By accident I pulled the little outlet out of the wall and the wires came out. I remember the electric guy once did it, and put only these 2 wires in, but somehow i'm not getting any phone signal...

I'm not sure i've put these 2 cables back as they were. Though I remember it only having 2 cables... (ps this is the back view of a telephone outlet thingy thats in the wall)

These Jacks can be difficult and are often a one time install product. The wire may not simply have 'pulled out' from it, the copper conductor may have actually broken off inside the unit OR the tabs that make contact with the conductors could be broken inside.

Even if you able to push in newly stripped wires and have them 'grab tight' and stay mechanically connected, there may be conductors inside the jack that do create a closed circuit.

You'll spend far less time and energy replacing with new, than troubleshooting and/or repairing these mass produced units.

Good luck. Let us know if you have a solution.


Foam insulation in interior walls If I use foam insulation on the outside (2") and in the 2 x 6 walls (from 4 - 5"), do I need to fill in the leftover space on the inside with fiberglass or Roxul, or just put the vapor barrier over it leaving  1 - 1 1/2" air space?

The space does not have to be filled but should not be between the two foam layers.
The required R value does have to be met.
To find your total R value: add the specified ratings for both foams.
Why are you putting the vapor barrier on the inside? Is this code compliant where you are?


Junction box for different unit's circuit If my basement apartment and main unit have each their own electrical panels, can I have a junction box (located on the ceiling)  in one unit that belongs to the other unit? For example, can there be a JB in the basement for a circuit that belongs in the main unit? My main concern is that the basement tenant would not be able to switch that circuit off at the basement panel even though it's located in the basement.

You can have a box and it may be required depending on number of bends. If it cannot be turned off at that location label it as such so the tenant won't try using it.


Can I use 12/2 NM-B wire for basement outlets? Can I use 12/2 NM-B  wire for basement outlets?

Also can I use 15 AMP outlets and switches with 12/2 NM-B wire?

You can use nonmetallic sheathed cable in basements, as long as you follow a few rules.

If you're using 12 AWG cable, and you're installing the cable at angles to the joists. You'll have to pull the cable through bored holes, or along running boards. You cannot staple the cable along the bottom of the joist.

When you come down the wall, you'll have to protect the cable in some way. This could be in conduit, or by installing a wood framing member (2x4) for the cable to attach to.  If you use the framing member, the cable will have to attach to the side not the face of the member.

This answer will provide code references.

Yes, you can use 12 AWG conductors with 15 ampere rated receptacles and switches.  You'll have to use the screw terminals, instead of the push-in terminals. As most push-in terminals on these devices, are only rated for 14 AWG conductors.


Ceiling fan with remote wiring issues I have a Hunter ceiling fan and LED light kit that comes with the fan, I purchased the display model so I don't have any wiring diagrams. The fan has ground (green), white, black and black with a white strip on it. I have two switches to control the fan (fan and light). I have ground, white, black, and red. The builder used the white, red, and ground when they installed the basic light.

I also purchased a remote for the fan. There are 4 wires, two to the ceiling and two the fan. The two to the ceiling are black and white and the two to the fan are blue and yellow. The instructions for the remote say to wire black to black, white to white and include the white from the fan (3 wires in one cap). From the remote to fan it says wire blue to blue and yellow to black.

Is it safe to assume that the black with the white strip is considered the blue?

Yes, it's definitions possible that the black with white stripe is the same as blue.  Though you might find that the black is blue, and the black with white stripe is black.

In either case it won't matter, if you get it wrong you'll just have to switch them.


Is it normal/OK for LED lights to “crackle” when turned off? I have some can LED lights in my kitchen. When I turn them off after moderate to prolonged use, some of the lights make a “crackle” noise, like the sound ice cubes make after being placed into warm water. It’s is not always the same light making the noise - there are 5 lights on the switch and they seem to take turns making the noise. They also sometimes make this noise when first turned on, but that is much less common.
The lights are around 5 years old, and only started exhibiting this behavior around 6-8 months ago. The fixtures themselves are older - they were there when I bought the house.
Is this “normal”, or at least OK? I’ve never heard this type of sound on other LEDs, so I am concerned.  If there is a problem, is it just a matter of replacing lights, or is this indicative of deeper issues?

I am not sure this is the correct answer but why let that stop me from postulating?
I have heard this in some light fixtures and my educated? guess is it is the sound of contraction ( as in expansion and contraction due to heating and cooling )
Some of the parts of the fixture expand from the heat produced by the light, when you turn off the light the fixture starts to cool and contract, I.E. return to its shape/size when not hot.

Is it normal/OK for LED lights to “crackle” when turned off?

Normal, ?? -  ok, YES.


How do I seperate three lights from 1 switch? I have one light switch that controls 3 lights - how do I separate that switch to two individual switches?

The only way you could do this, is if the wires feeding each light came all the way back to the switch. Which is not a common wiring method, so not a likely situation.

In any case, without more information, a more accurate answer cannot be provided.


What could be causing my kitchen drawers to be sliding out? Two out of the four kitchen drawers are sliding open after about 20 seconds of staying closed. I managed to fix one by tightening the screws, but one continues to misbehave. I compared the ones that stay closed and the one that still won't, and there does not seem to be much difference. All the screws are tight and the tracks are clean and level.

How can I diagnose what's wrong?

Here are some photos of the one that won't stay closed (the angle on the camera is off on the second one):

I've had this happen before.  Like the commenter mentioned, it's due to one of two things:

The cabinet is not level with the floor causing the whole cabinet to lean forward.
The tracks for the draw are not level, causing the drawer to tilt forward.

Just get a level and test the drawer and the track.


Will this solar charger work with my solar panel setup? I recently bought some used solar panels that are about 25 years old, because I got a great deal on them. They have some odd operating values, which is confusing me as to which solar charger will work with my system.

I have 6 panels @ 230 watts each (1380w total).

Their specs are ( as far as I can tell. I needed to peice a label together because there is really no information available on them online):

Name: Mobil RA-220 8b
Peak power: 230w
Vmax: 8.27 (V)
PF Pmax: 27.77 (I)
Voc: 10.55 (V)
Isc: 30.49 (I)

I am attempting to make a 24 volt system with either 4 or 6 panels. My friend said some of those values above are labeled incorrectly (volts vs amps). However, with her math, she recommended the Victron MPPT blue solar 100/50 solar charger, which is rated at:

max 1400w
12/24v
Max PV open circuit voltage: 100v
Max battery current: 50 amps

Would this charger work with this setup? If not, why? And is there another comparably priced ($300) charger that would work in the market?

I know I need to connect my panels in both series and parallel. What specifically would you recommend?

Thank you!

Wire the panels all in series to get the highest possible voltage to the controller. This will keep your current lower, requiring less wire, and allow the MPPT charger to work more efficiently. If you are charging a 24V battery bank, you need at LEAST 26V but it will operate much better with higher voltages. Just try not to exceed 100V. 6 panels is probably the max you'd want to run.

The Mobil ra220 panels actually have 2 modules each, and if you're measuring ~9V per panel they are configured in parallel. I'd recommend rewiring them in series for the reasons stated above.


How can I turn off this shutoff valve I'd like to turn off the water supply to the washlet for cleaning, possibly without closing it for the entire house.
I thought it would be easy.
But apparently i'm not able to close this water valve. I managed to spin the central screw, but tightening it apparently does nothing.

Same for the bottom one, either way doesn't seem to close the water. What I'm doing wrong?

Thank you.

you may have to move the "bar" to a horizontal position. (cross ways)


simple 12 volt heater I have a small shed and a few extra solar panels (about 400 watts worth). It's a cold area and I'd like to just convert the electricity to heat. I thought maybe a dummy load would work.

Basically I'm looking for a simple way to convert 12 volt (or 24) electrical energy to heat. Anything I can do to heat the shed up would be great. I'd like an answer independent of building and electrical codes because whatever ideas I get I can look into how those fit. This is a very rural area.

You could just use a 12V automotive heater like this on amazon (but really any store with auto parts should have them):

The benefits are:

It's a tested heater that should not burn down your building (unlike a true DIY using some type of "hot box" that might even invalidate your home insurance)

Don't forget to keep flammable material well away from it or any heater / light bulbs

It's designed to use 12V from automotive-like batteries, that are often used with solar panels, so all you need is a 12V socket and it's "plug and play"

I'd recommend trying one out in person, I tried one once that was barely warm and you couldn't even feel the air a foot away, while others are almost like a hair dryer (but designed to run safely longer than a hair dryer)


What is the white paneling under the vinyl on my house, and how can I fix it? On the back of my house, the section between the vinyl siding and the ground is covered with some sort of white, textured material. What exactly is it? Is it stucco?

Secondly, what would be the best way to fix that gash in it that came from trimming along there with a string trimmer?

Given that someone put a gash in it with a string trimmer, its likely stucco over rigid foam insulation panels.

If there's wire mesh in there as well, it's likely a traditional multi-coat stucco finish that can be repaired using stucco repair techniques.

If there's no wire mesh, you may have an EIFS wall (exterior insulation finishing system), which is kind of insulation and finish in one. This should be repaired using products and techniques specific to EIFS.


7500 KW generator and a 30 amp line I'm about to wire for a 7500 KW Generac generator which is something my nephew has already done.  In his case the system was wired by an electrician using a double pole 50amp breaker at the panel and 100amp wire.  The system worked flawlessly.  Then years later, in an attempt to upgrade the system, he called upon a second electrician that rewired using double pole 30amp breakers and 30amp wire sighting that the Generac was only providing 30amps and that the way the system was wired was overkill.  Made sense at the time but when the first emergency took place, and the generator put to use, it surged and blew its breaker, while the fridge and fish tank pump made unnerving sounds, while lights would flicker and wall switches failed to work?  He has since rewired to original and things are back to working fine.

My electrician is on the same page as my nephews second electrician, and who am I to argue with a professional, but I fear the same results if I wire using the 30amp logic.

Can anyone tell me why the 50amp breaker/100amp wire works while the 30amp solution fails???  Are the watts unavailable to the house due to circuit size?

Kind Regards, Bewildered

There's nothing wrong with overdesign.   Tearing out 100A-rated cable simply because it's "too big" is just wrong.  I'm not saying you should oversize every wire, but if you are in an situation where the existing wire is larger than needed, it works in your favor.

However there is something wrong with overfusing.  Fuses and breakers protect wiring and equipment.  A breaker which is too large will not protect the equipment.  That's not a worry if the generator has its own breaker onboard.

If the generator has its own fuse or breaker protection that is correct to protect the generator, then the input breaker in the panel is allowed to be larger than the generator.  The original setup was fine.


How can I redirect the discharge of my forced air vent? An AC/heating register on our kitchen ceiling blows air directly toward a gas cooktop causing the flames to flicker. Adjusting the register doesn't seem to make a difference. I've looked into air deflectors but the ones I've found seem cheap or have bad reviews.

Is there a high quality air deflector out there or, even better, an alternative solution (e.g., a highly adjustable register)?

Here's a photo of a similar register.

Get (or fabricate) a register deflector.


How do I permanently remove a steam radiator? I have a steam radiator in my apartment that I would like to completely remove, because:

I want to use the space for something else
my apartment is too warm
it makes a loud hissing noise when it's on

Note that I've already turned the valve all the way to the off position, but it seems like some steam still leaks through.

So how would I go about removing the radiator and sealing off the valve?

I imagine the procedure is as simple as using a wrench to disconnect the radiator from the valve, and then sealing the open end of the pipe with something.

The questions I have are:

What is the name of the item I need to seal off the open end of the valve?
How do I determine what size of this item I need?
Is there anything I need to do before disconnecting the radiator from the valve?

High-resolution album available here http://imgur.com/a/aPsYt

Medium sized photos:

If you have permission to remove the radiator:

1) Make sure the system will not be actively producing steam.

2) Use a large open-ended or adjustable wrench to loosen the union between the brass radiator valve and the radiator. It will likely be difficult and you may need to tap on the union nut with a hammer or use a section of pipe to extend the leverage of your wrench to loosen it.  The radiator is disconnected.

3) Use an open ended wrench and a pipe wrench to remove the brass valve.  Spin the valve off with the open ended wrench while providing counter-pressureon the elbow with the pipe wrench.  Only using one wrench may stress and crack the fittings.

4) Plug the pipe. Depending on which fitting you choose to remove, you may want a square headed pipe plug (if you have exposed female threads) or a pipe cap (if you have exposed male threads.   Based on the photo, it looks like either a 1" or 1.25" pipe.

If you do not have permission to remove the radiator, but want to stop the hissing and heat... This is one-pipe steam, and either of the following options will solve two of your problems.

1) Turn your silver Hoffman valve upside down.  This prevents the vent from venting.

2) Remove the silver Hoffman vent and replace it with a 1/8" pipe plug with a square head.


Brass tub overflow pipe stuck in brass tee. How can I remove it? I am repairing a tub overflow. The screws for the cover plate were very corroded and broke off. I am trying to remove the overflow fitting and pipe but it is stuck. The pipe is brass and slides into a brass tee and then has a gasket and compression nut holding it in. I have removed the nut and gasket but the pipe is still stuck in the fitting.

The overflow pipe and tub drain are connected to the tee with compression nuts. The tee connects to the P-trap with a soldered joint.

How can I remove a  stuck brass pipe from a brass fitting?

I have tried some PB Blaster but that is probably the wrong chemical for brass corrosion.

Heat both parts moderately and safely (ie, don't set the house on fire) concentrating on the Tee or outside part.

Then apply ice to the pipe (ie, the "inside part" of the joint.)

This is usually a more practical (and less frustrating) approach than trying to heat one and cool the other at the same time.

The idea in play is to expand the outer part and shrink the inner part to aid in separating them. It won't always work, but it's what I'd try first when simple disassembly fails.

Heat may also help to break up the corrosion more directly by driving water out of it.


Why are both wires white and black hot at the outlet, light switch and even at light in the ceiling. I replaced the outlets and switches and lights Why are both wires white and black hot at the outlet, and light switch and even at the light in the ceiling

In the case of a light switch, it is normal if the switch is setup as follows:

[elec ]B=========#==============+
[panel]W--------+ +X---------X+ |
                | |           | |
                (~)           [-]
               light         switch

The white wire is carrying power back to the light, and convention dictates there should be a piece of black tape (X) around the white wire to indicate it is a live return.

It's important that the switch must go against the live lead not the neutral.

-- Minor edit to diagram.  The wire from the panel usually ends in the ceiling.  A new wire runs to the switch, black to black with a nut, and white (switched hot) back to the fixture. # indicates this nut.


How can I run cables along a concrete wall? I am living in a house with concrete walls (no attic, no basement) and I want to run Cat5e or Cat6 Cable from the router which is downstairs to my office which is upstairs. Right now running cables through the walls is not an option.

previously I have been using these little nail things with a bracket on them to hold the cables down, but they tend to fall out, so that is not a useful option.

What is the best way to run ethernet cable so it stays in place and not spend too much money

There are various types of cable clips that use adhesive to hold them in place, such as these

If you are concerned about damaging the finish when they are taken off, some brands have pull strips that claim to avoid paint damage.

Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


30amp 2 breaker sub panel Hooking up power to a shed only going to have a few receptacles and a light.
I have 30 amp power close by where I use to use for a camper it’s only run off of 120 with 3 wires my question is can I use that for a 30amp subpanel with 2 breakers I was told I can jump off the other leg in the panel to make the other bus bar hot for 120v going to be useing a 20amp breaker for receptacles and a 15 for the light

You can use the 2-space panel as it is.  Just split the hot so it connects to both lugs. However you must use a 2-pole breaker, or handle-tie all the breakers so they throw together.  Why?  You need a disconnect switch, and that's it!  And it must be 1 throw action.

One of our crusades around here is to convince people that you are better off with a LARGE service panel, in terms of the number of spaces.  That is to say, 2-space panel considered bad; 18-space panel considered good.  Why? Physical expansion room.  The likeliest thing that will happen to you is that you will run out of breaker spaces.  This is an expensive and awkward problem, and it is easily avoided by getting an excessively large panel (for right now).

Saving money is awesome. We'll help you do that here.  But the message for now is, a baby panel is the worst possible place you could try to save money! There's very little money to be saved (I joke about "a few latté's" but it's true), and so much frustration and cost when you hit the wall later.

So take back the 2-space and get at least a 12-space.

I'll even say to get a panel with a "main breaker".  That becomes your mandatory disconnect switch. The cheapest way to get a 30A disconnect switch is to get a panel with a main breaker >= 30A. (Since you're only using it as a disconnect switch, size does not matter).

In the future if  you make your supply wire bigger, it just hooks up to the main-breaker panel. No need for an upgrade!

Hooking up to the disconnect switch

If you got a main-breaker panel, you take your 30A 120V "Hot" wire and split it.  That is, you put two 6" pigtails on the 2 hot inputs of the main breaker, and wire-nut that to your 30A input (you'll need a big blue or tan wire nut).   Now you can fit breakers normally.

NO MWBCs (shared neutral) circuits!  (if you don't know what that is, don't worry about it).

If you got a main-lug (no main breaker) panel, then you'll have to backfeed it.  (i.e. bring power "in" the normal "out" of a breaker).  Backfeed breakers require bolt-down kits, and bolt-down kits require 2-pole breakers.  So split the power to feed both "hots" of the 2-pole breaker.  This can't be a $80 GFCI breaker, you can't backfeed a GFCI!

In a pinch, you could use something like a quadplex breaker. Bolt down the quadplex.  Then backfeed with the two inner (say: 30A) breakers and serve your loads with the two outer (say: 20A) breakers.

There is also a "Tie the buses together" cheat that can be done, where  you run a wire connecting the two main lugs.  However, this doesn't buy you anything in a 30A panel.  Having too few spaces is still a huge problem.


How to turn off a light sensor LED light? I've got a light on my condo building and I'd like to figure out how to turn it off. It's currently operated by an automatic light sensor (turns off when it gets dark).

I want to setup better lighting for parties/etc.

Do these white screws do anything? Is it possible to hire an electrician to replace this box with a switch system (when turned on uses light sensor, when off overrides to off).

I'll have to get / post a photo of the light (it's an outdoor LED floodlight).

The white "screws", are knockout plugs. A knockout is simply a hole where conduit, cable, wire, or a device can attach/enter the box. A knockout plug, is used to fill unused knockouts.
Here is a similar box cover with the knockouts unplugged.

This allows you to attach devices, like lamp holders and motion sensors.

Any extra holes would be filled with a plug.

Professional Help
You should be able to hire an Electrician to install a switch as you mention, but it would depend on if you have the legal right to (own vs. rent, etc.)


Doorbell became very soft, battery replacement only necessary? My doorbell ("speaker" portion pictured above) got very soft today. It
still chimes, but just barely.

I'm guessing it's battery-operated and the batteries are weak, but how
can I tell for certain?

I also assume I need to unscrew the tubes from the "speaker" and
change the batteries. Is that correct?

Finally, is it dangerous to unscrew the tubes if this isn't a
battery-operated doorbell (ie, risk of electrocution?).

Seeing screws with wires attached to them is a good sign the doorbell is hardwired (not battery operated), in a battery operated fixture the wires would be soldered to a circuit board.

If you live in the U.S. you are probably dealing with 12 to 24v at the chime, though the power should still be shut off at the main panel before you start working.

Here is a good guide to troubleshooting a doorbell.

  Troubleshoot a doorbell switch

  Unscrew the switch from the house and pull it away to tighten any loose
  wires.
  If that fails, bypass the switch by shorting across the terminals with
  a screwdriver blade or by removing the
  two wires and touching them together.
  If the bell rings, replace the switch.
  If not, twist the two wires together
  and move on to the next step.
  Connect the two wires to the two terminals; push the wires back into
  the wall and screw on the switch. If
  new mounting holes are required, start
  the holes with an awl and drive in the
  screws.

  Troubleshoot a transformer

  Locate the transformer, and inspect and tighten low-voltage wire
  connections to it.
  If neither doorbell works, use a multitester set to the 50-volt AC
  range to test the transformer. Touch
  the probes to the two terminals. If
  the reading is within 2 volts of the
  transformer's rating, troubleshoot the
  chime. If not, go on to the next step.
  Shut off the power to the transformer's circuit at the service
  panel, and remove the outlet-box
  cover. To test for power, pull out the
  black circuit wire and remove the wire
  nut. Probe the black and grounding
  wires with a neon tester. Repeat the
  test for white and grounding wires.
  Tighten any loose connections.
  To replace a faulty transformer, remove the low-voltage wires. When
  there is more than one wire at a
  terminal, tape them together for
  easier rewiring.
  Shut off the power to the doorbell circuit at the main service panel.
  Remove the outlet-box cover and
  disconnect the wires from the old
  transformer, then disconnect it from
  the box or the box's cover.
  Attach and wire the replacement. Connect the transformer's green wire
  to the bare grounded wire and its
  other two wires to the black and white
  circuit wires. Attach the outlet-box
  cover and secure each low-voltage wire
  or set of wires under a terminal.

  Troubleshoot a chime

  Remove the chime cover, which may snap or screw onto the base, and
  inspect all wiring connections.
  If the connections look good, set a multitester to the 50-volt AC range,
  then touch one probe to the
  transformer terminal and the other to
  the nonworking front or rear terminal.
  If it fails the test, replace the
  faulty wiring (see "Replace doorbell
  wiring," below). If the chime has
  power but neither doorbell works,
  replace the chime (go on to steps 3
  and 4).
  To replace a chime, remove its cover. Disconnect and label the wires
  for easier rewiring. Remove the
  mounting screws and the old chime.
  Thread the wires into the back of the new chime and mount it to the wall
  with the provided screws and anchors.
  Attach low-voltage wires to their
  respective terminals and replace the
  cover.

  Replace doorbell wiring

  Disconnect the faulty wire at both ends and loosen or remove all
  accessible wire staples.
  Twist together one end of the existing wire to an end of the new
  wiring and tape the splice, using very
  little tape. Pull the existing wire to
  draw the new wire through holes,
  staples and wall or ceiling cavities.
  Pull it through one section at a time
  rather than all at once. Staple as
  needed.


how to repair holes left by expanding anchor bolts in concrete I have a large workbench which I inherited with my current home, and I'd like to replace it with one I'm currently building, mainly since the current one is pretty small, and the top of the bench has a massive crack, so it wouldn't be safe to bolt down my heavier tools to it.

I've removed the bench, but there are four large floor expanding anchor bolts stuck in the concrete, and they won't budge. What is the best way to deal with them?

I've read some blog entries on other sites recommending I just pound them down into the hole if there is extra space (there is), and just patch it with some quick-set cement. My concern with this is:

There will be gaps between the hole radius and the anchor, and if water gets in there, floor damage in the future.
The anchor is still there, and I just cover it up, I don't want someone else in the future (new owner if I sell, contractor, etc) drilling straight down into it and facing a potential injury from hitting the anchor.

I could chisel around them and patch up a much larger, cone shaped hole I'd be creating, but I'm trying to see if there are better alternatives.

This is a pet peeve of mine, I use lag shields and anchors for this kind of thing because those expansion bolts are such a pain if you want to move things, and eventually you move everything.

I see you got the big-hammer solution, people love giving that advice.  ("Just pound it in!  BFH (big hammer) solves everything! What could possibly go wrong?") I'd be worried what that's doing to the concrete, and if you miss, you're going to mess up your floor.

First thing to try:  loosen the nut and put a prybar under there, or a claw hammer, whatever, and see if it pulls out.  Sometimes if the hole is overdrilled and / or the concrete isn't that hard, they are easier than you'd think to pull out.

At the risk of giving a big-hammer solution, if you whack the nut horizontally in all directions, regular sized hammer is adequate, it may crumble the concrete enough that the thing pulls out with a claw hammer or prybar.

Another one that might work:  tighten the nut with a wrench until something gives.  Of course you'll need something sturdy that won't spin between the nut and the floor.  The bench's hold-down bracket may work.  If it snaps off it will probably snap off well below the surface, epoxy it and forget it ever happened.

I normally just cut them off flush with a hacksaw, but there are other ways to go ... same ideas as in this answer.

I wouldn't worry about the next person;  it's going to be very visible there's something there, and people always need to be cognizant they may hit metal when drilling in concrete.

You could drill around it with a core bit and snap off a core that would just lift out, but that's way way more trouble than I'd go to unless you happen to have a core drill and a small bit lying around.

EDIT:  I thought of one other thing.  You could get a hammer drill and a bit a little bigger than the bolt, and drill down right next to it.  That will weaken it's hold enough that you can get it out with a little persuasion.  Then you can fill the hole with the epoxy.  A hammer drill and bit that size is much easier to get a hold of than a core drill.


Why is there two sets of black and white wires connected together in my wall? Don't understand what this is, I was told it was probley a splice in the wires to extend wiring but I thought white had to be with white, black with black and ground to ground.....is this something that needs to be in a junction box ??

It could be a switch loop, that box would be legal as a junction if a cover was installed. I would want to clean that up with wire nuts and tuck the wires in the box and add a cover.


What is this machine's purpose? I was driving past a house under construction and saw this device in its driveway. It was operating, making a continual noise. Does anyone know what this machine is and what it does?

It looks like a fan-forced portable furnace, to blow warmed air into the cold building that is being built.


How to identify the type of plastic I'm wondering if there's a practical method of recognizing what kind of plastic a something is made of.  This is a recurring issue I face when trying to fix/glue/work-with plastic stuff around the house.

More specifically, I was trying to fix the connection of a garden hose reel. I thought that the black, carbon-like, hard plastic was ABS and used some ABS-compatible glue, but the bonding came off almost immediately after it was put under pressure. So, before I try again, I'd like a way to identify the material and use the right kind of products for it.

Most products you purchase will have the information on the label. If no information is provided you can look for a marking similar to the following that will help you identify the type of plastic it was made with.

ABS does not have a symbol, but is often marked >ABS<.

In your case, I'd look around the base of the hose reel you should be able to find it. If not consult the manufacturers website.


How high should I install an outlet in my bathroom? I would like to install a GFCI outlet in my bathroom. I attempted to install it beside our vanity mirror on first the left then the right side, but was unable to due to the construction of the wall, where the studs where placed too closely together. So, I decided to place the outlet on the wall opposite of the sink. My question is, how high from the floor should I place this outlet?

Thanks

On a wall there is not a minimum or maximum height. The question would be how high would you like it? If close to the basin they are usually placed several inches above the counter space but again no code height restriction on the walls. The one thing is it can not be placed in a wet location like above a tub unless outside the tub zone.


Can I vent a microwave vent / range hood through wall? I've got a Whirlpool over-the-range microwave that is currently venting back into the kitchen.  I'd like to poke a hole through the wall and vent it directly outside.  I've read the instructions and it seems pretty straight forward.

I don't know much about this, so my question(s) is: am I going to be "locked in" to this microwave?  What happens in three years when I want to replace it with another brand?  Is it likely that the exhaust duct will still line up?  What if I replace it with a hood?

There is no standard mounting or vent hole dimensions for these type of microwaves. Although most of them adapt to 4inch vent hose, there is no standard to where on the back of the microwave the vent is attached, and this can effect where you need to cut your hole in the wall, especially in 2X4 walls where you won't have a lot of room to offset the vent.