How to connect 2 thermostats and baseboard heaters on one breaker? I have already run the wire from the electrical box ( not connected) to the thermostats and heaters (not connected) now I need to know which wire is to be connected in order. It’s 12/2 gauge red and black. Thanks.

In the first junction box with the first thermostat, connect with wire nut black wire from panel, black wire to next junction box, short pigtail wire to thermostat. Connect with another wire nut red wire from panel, red wire to next junction box, red wire to first heater. Connect black wire to heater to other connection on thermostat. Connect ground wire from panel to junction box then to wire nut, with ground wire to second junction box and to heater.

In the second junction box with the second thermostat, connect black wire from first junction box to thermostat. Connect red wire from first junction box to red wire to second heater. Connect black wire to heater to other connection on thermostat.  Connect ground wire from first junction box to second junction box then to wire nut with ground wire to second heater.


Replacing Refrigerator Piping I'm looking to do a little DIY project where I replace the refrigeration lines of my mini-fridge with some clear PVC piping to show what's going on inside. I haven't verified the PVC will withstand the operating temperatures, and I may have to look to another clear material, but is this something I can do without damaging the unit?

I believe the refrigerant will be highly pressurized, so I may have to replace it altogether I assume.

Take an on-line class, read a refrigeration book, take a vo-tech class, but do not try to use plastic lines for the refrigeration cycle. You will be playing with a loaded gun.


Need help wiring a 3-way Honeywell digital timer switch I recently posted a request for help to wire a Woods 59018 digital timer switch, which I learned was not a three way switch but could be used an override-ON. Unfortunately the directions I followed for the override ON option did not work, maybe because the switch is defective. So I got a multi-mode Honeywell RPLS530A, which has only three wires and comes with a jumper cable. Again, I'm hoping someone can complete the attached diagram, telling me which wires to connect.

You should follow the instructions included with the device.

  Connect wire "C" of the RPLS530A/RPLS531A to the "common" wire,
  identified when removing the old switch. Connect the other two
  RPLS530A/RPLS531A wires to the two remaining wires.

  At the other 3-way switch, connect the jumper wire between the "common"
  screw and the screw where wire "1" of the RPLS530A/RPLS531A
  is connected.

So your diagram will look like this...


How do I hang curtains on a cutout like this? I have this cutout and was wondering how I would be able to hang some curtains without them looking out of place!

I was thinking putting a curtain and rod on the upper part before the cutout but wasn’t sure if there is something that can be done on the inside?
Thanks!

Attach your brackets to the upper window molding as close to the edge as possible.


How you measure the slope with a 48 inch digital measure? Yes, I looked at the question:
How do you determine the slope of a floor?
I'm trying to measure the slope of the bedroom. I know that the bedroom is sloped, but I am hard time finding out by how much. So I got one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-48-in-True-Blue-Digital-Box-Level-e105-48H/306839434
Only in 6 different places on the floor(which are in horizontal straight line), when I place the Box level vertically, it shows me a slope of 1/8 / ft in the digital box. I don't know what this means, can someone please explain how to measure the slope of the floor?
Someone below asked me what is unclear in the 1/8th per foot. I'm trying to gauge how do I extrapolate it to 8ft. But I'm unable to, since the slope is zero if I move my measure in a straight line.

If it's a cruddy level it may be different when reversed.  I have one level that is off by about 1/8 over it's length this way. E.g. if it's level one way, reversing it takes a 1/8" rise on one end to fix.  I use this one or rough work, and for drawing lines on plywood.
Ok the level works.  You need a longer level. Go buy the longest straight 2x4 or 2x6 you can that will fit in the room.  Look down the length of it, or better, run a tight string down it to see that it's straight.  Piggy back your level on this.
A far easier way however is to get a self leveling laser level.Set it up so that it's exactly X inches above the floor at some point.  Now with a tape you can run around and map out your floor.  Mine has a couple of gratings that can be put in the path.  One spreads the beam into about a 45" wide beam.  Set up in one corner and do most of the floor with 2 moves.  (The other makes it spread vertically giving you a perfect plumb line.


Front-load washer keeps getting stinky I have an older Whirlpool front-load washer that's stinky. I periodically clean it inside and out (including the folds in the seal) but the smell keeps coming back. Last time this happened, I took the machine apart and found mold in the drain hose; replacing it fixed the problem. But now two months later, it's back again.

Is there any way to fix this problem permanently, or should I break down and replace it? If so, is there anything I can replace it with that won't simply exhibit this problem again?

Thanks to comments posted here, I looked at the list of washers that are on the class-action lawsuit lists of affected units and mine is. So I guess it's time for a new washing machine.


What is normal flow coming from icemaker tubing? Could someone give me a description of what normal flow of water should be coming from water supply through icemaker tubing. It is 1/4 od plastic tubing that is traveling approximately 10 feet from water supply. What I mean is should water be coming out in a steady stream, fast drip, slow drip, etc?

It should come in a steady stream. Some refrigerator user manuals state "filling a cup of water in 10 seconds".

Typically it is recommended (or even stated) to use copper tubing and not plastic. I do not know if this has any real impact on flow, especially with just 10' away.


What is the port with the red cap for on my generator? I have a (2005 - 2007) Briggs & Stratton 5,550 Watt Portable Generator - Model Number 030324 Rev Number 00.

I'm in the process of preparing it for shipment and I was instructed to leave it dry. After examining the generator I noticed the oil dip stick which is pretty long (4 inches maybe) and has a yellow cap as expected. However, closer to the bottom of the generator there is a red cap that's about a inch long that has fluid in it. The fluid appears reddish/pinkish. Nothing in the manual points to what it could potentially be.

What is this fluid?

I want to ensure when shipping the generator I ship new bottles of the fluid. Also, does anyone know what type of oil the generator takes and what spark plug?

The red cap is for the oil too. I'm guessing it allows for a funnel to be used and that's the preferred place to add the oil.

The oil type is either 5W - 30 or 10 - 30. And the spark plug is standard I'm guessing based on a Home Depot run and internet search.


In slip joints, what's the difference between rubber and nylon washers? I've put together a few different drain fittings, and usually seen nylon tapered washers that seal the slip joint.  But this time, when I bought a sink tailpiece extension, it came with a square-cut rubber washer instead.  After installing it, the connection leaks very slowly.  What is the intended use of the rubber vs nylon washers?
This is the exact piece that I bought, which included the rubber: Form-N-Fit 1-1/4 in. PVC Flexible Tailpiece Extension

In my experience the flat rubber washer is used only where the tailpiece attaches to the strainer. The tapered nylon washers are used when connecting slip together sections of pipe.


The best kind of tiles for using on floor and walls I'm in the process of doing up a room in my home for short term rental. It is a small room, and approximately square; about 12.5 ft by 12.5 ft. This room is on the edge of a building; we normally refer to it as a tower room. A picture of the exterior appears below; it is the room below the dome closer to the viewer.
The room no longer looks exactly as it did in this photo; the wooden windows have been removed and will be replaced by sliding windows. I was advised that tiles on the floor and the walls was a good way to go, because they were durable and low-maintenance. I'm in Bombay, India.

The types of tiles available includes ceramic, vitrified, porcelain, and stone. This article has a more comprehensive list, but my list covers most of the types commonly used, I think; the others in the article seem more exotic.

So, the question is, which tiles do I use and where? I am quite partial to granite, so I'm thinking granite tiles would be nice. But I'm not sure what the pros and cons of this are. Also, I'm hoping to stay in the ₹ 50-100 range.

One thing to be aware of it that there are very heavy seasonal rains in this part of the world, usually from June through September. Therefore moisture can seep through the walls from outside. However, it should not be an issue for the floor.

So, my question is - which type of tiles do I choose? What are the pros and cons? An important criteria is durability. Another is aesthetics. People will be sleeping in this room. It will be hot outside much of the time. There will be an A/C running inside. Are any of these factors relevant?

The article you linked in your question was a good one. Good guidelines to follow for choosing where to use various kinds of tile. That will give you a good start. I am partial to natural stone tile, but that it my preference, but beyond my price range. It may be more affordable in India. Porcelain is also a good choice, hard, non staining. Whether you choose natural or manmade, always seal the surface and grout lines of stone, and the grout line of the non porous tiles. Get your color scheme in mind and use the various kinds of tile to create your decor


Water dripping from freezer into fridge top shelf My fridge has recently started dripping water into the top shelf. Have you encountered this? Any tips on how to fix it will be appreciated. Can I do it myself or do I need a specialist? It's not under warranty.

Here is a short video of the water dripping.

https://youtu.be/IIJjDIw8Htc

https://youtu.be/0uGOpegH0Dc

Thanks for reading. Appreciate your help.

(1) Turn off water to ice maker.
If it still drips you have a blocked drain line. Drain line carries condensate from freezer coil to a pan in bottom of the fridge where heat from motor causes it to evaporate.

Exact directions for unblocking drain line will depend on your specific model fridge which you have not included in the question.

Generally  (2) unplug power.   (3) remove coil cover in back of freezer. There will be ice in the tray under the coil. Allow it to melt or speed up the process with a hair dryer.

Once you can see where the hole is that carries water to the bottom pan you will (4) clear the line with a blast of compressed air.

(5) Allow all ice build up in coil to melt using towels to soak up water,keeping too much from over filling bottom pan.

(6) Re install freezer coil cover and power back on.

Of course if your leak stops after step one there is a problem with ice maker supply line.


Is sheetrock/drywall required under woodpanelling? I live in an old house, built in 1940's. I have a wall between two bedrooms that bowed out terribly. It is not a supporting wall. I am pulling this wall out, reframing it, and installing 3/4" tongue-and-grove beetle-kill panelling. Is sheetrock/drywall required under the wood?

If I am not mistaken I believe there are 2 things that are going to play a role in this when dealing with older homes from the 50s on back.

Meeting fire codes and
Will meeting fire codes endanger the integrity of the dwelling based on load bearing capacities.

For instance, many homes back then had rooms with wall to wall knotty pine, plaster in place of drywall, load bearing walls made of all bricks with 2 fireplaces to match. Not to mention, was the roof sheeted or were slats used.

That type of weight starts adding up real fast.

I think a private or city engineer and then/or a city inspector can tell you what the answers are.

Might want to see if you can access the prints of the home if you do not already possess them. It may save you some $$$.

If you get bored or find this interesting here is a link to a live load and dead load calculator. You will quickly see that weight plays a huge factor that is often overlooked when you're talking numbers like 40 lbs per sq ft and a fish tank is in one corner.

http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc


DIY Corner bathroom sink vanity installation I have  this corner sink that I would like to install.

Holes location on sink :

I have moderate DIY skill and have previously installed a bidet that needed water hose T joint. So I think I can pull this one off.

There is existing water pipe for toilet and floor drain outlet-

T joint location for water connection:

Drain /grate connection:

The house plumbing type is pressurized , there is a main water valve that can be used to shut off water from the mains.

I could think of following parts :

Flexible water hose

Flexible drain pipe

Strainer Basket

2x Double headed coach screw ?

Saw them here at 4:00

youtube.com/watch?v=SrUdoKQukZw

Like this -

Any sealant ?
Water pipe T-joint

Any thing else I am missing? Any other tips to get this DIY job done would be great.

Thanks in advance

Things to consider:

Most "new location" sink installations require opening of the wall to relocate drain and water-supply plumbing, you do not mention this but need to prepare for it.
flexible drain tubes are more prone to accumulation of material (clogging) so you may want to consider adjustable tubular slip-joint drain pipes. You do not mention a trap, these are necessary for safety and code compliance.
The upper flange of the drain assembly (where the drain assembly meets the sink hole) is most often sealed with plumber's putty, you may need some.
The ability to fasten the sink to the wall with those "coach screws" is totally dependent on wall construction. You may need special anchors or other reinforcement to ensure the attachment is strong enough.

Terminology and methodology is particular by geographic area, so if this does not make sense then we hail from different parts of the world.


What should I use to transition from tiles to hard wood floor? There's currently some kind of solid filling between the tiles in my kitchen and the hard wood in my living room.  During the summer when it gets hot and humid, the hard wood expand and cracks the solid filling.  After a couple of years, there's not much left of the filling.  Here's how it looks:

That filling is also used to connect hard floor from living room to my bedroom:

What should I use to re-fill those gaps so that when summer come, the filling doesn't crack and break?  I'm fairly new to DIY, so links to the mats and tools needed are much appreciated.

You want to look for pieces called hardwood flooring transitions. They can either be "T" pieces, reducers, or threshold pieces. Here are some examples:


How can I increase the height of a driveway edge at the gutter? My driveway is near the low end of our subdivision and slopes down from the gutter. Heavy rain brings water and sand on to my driveway. I have created a drain for the water, but the sand remains, lots of it.
I had a 5 ft. section the driveway concrete removed and replaced with new concrete to the gutter to increase the height by 2 inches. Unfortunately, contractor only got it to 1 1/2 inches. I need an additional inch of height, but the contractor won't help.
My thought is to find rubber coating that I can apply in several layers. The height would increase and the rubber coating would absorb some of the shock of the bump.  This problem has been brought up here before.

Rubber coating won't provide enough height to be effective. You need at least an inch or two to change the course of a stream.
I think I'd look at a bolt-down speed bump, and I'd put foam "sill seal" underneath it to be sure to get a good seal against the driveway.


What's the trick to hanging overhead light fixtures with only two hands? Whenever I perform this task, there always comes a point where I need two hands to do something with the fixture, and don't have a free hand to hold the lamp up in the air. I don't think it's safe to let heavy lamps hang from their wires, but that's always what I end up doing. So, what's the trick to holding up the lamp with one hand and needing two more hands to twist wire nuts and turn screws and whatnot?

I usually put all my hardware in my shirt pocket before I go up the ladder, so at least I don't have to go back down with the lamp hanging from the wires, but what other tricks might work for this task? Getting a second person obviously solves the issue, but please answer as if that's not possible.

Many flush ceiling fans have a built in solution in the form of a hook that hold the motor near the ceiling while you attach wires. Then you lift he fan off the hook and secure to the mounting bracket.

You can rig a similar hook if you can find a secure point on the lighting fixture as a grab point (either through or around). Use a wire coat hanger to make a double ended hook. Use at least two strands of the wire and twist ends tightly together for strength. One end of the double hook goes through or around your fixture grab point and the other hook end goes over the mounting strap attached to the ceiling box.

Support the unit (make sure that the hook mechanism seems strong enough to support the weight), attach wires, then lift unit and slip hook mechanism free. Attach mounting screws.


Short conduit run from attic to exterior panel. What is the correct way to run cable? I need to add a circuit and the my panel is outside. The easiest way to run the cable would be to run a conduit vertically from the panel and up through the soffit. Then I would properly run the cable through the attic to. I have two questions.

My question is, what is the proper way to install the conduit? Does the conduit need to extend a certain height up into the attic?

Second, it seems that with much debate, Romex shouldn't be run through a short conduit run. Is it OK to run it since it would be just 6' down to the panel or not? If the answer is no, would I just run the Romex in the attic to a junction box. Then have THHN wires run through the conduit to the exterior of the house and down to the panel?

Thank you

If you can't get the cable down the wall cavity, then use a junction box to transition to THHN in conduit and go down the wall that way from there

Normally, this run would be inside the wall cavity and then enter the panel from the back -- even if it's somewhat harder to run that way, it has the advantage that you don't have to mess with conduit.  If that's not possible, though, the alternative would be to run the NM into a box in the attic, where you transition to THHN in conduit (1/2" EMT or PVC suffices for this) and then run a short length of conduit out the wall into a LB conduit body, then conduit down the wall to a point alongside the panel, where it uses a LL or LR (depends which side of the panel you're on; if you can't be sure when you're buying it, simply pick up an Arlington AnyBODY or equivalent configurable conduit body instead of the LL or LR) body to transition into a nipple into the side of the box -- do not enter the panel from the top! (NEMA 3R boxes require a hub fitting to enter from the top, and generally only have knockouts for a single hub atop the box.)


Furnace flames run for a minute then shut off I have a furnace (Model: NUGK050CF01) that has recently been experiencing some weird behavior. The furnace will come on (I can see the flames) and it will run for a little over a minute. Then the flames will go out for about 7 minutes, then the cycle repeats itself. The blower is on continuously while all of this happens.

I've done some research and this kind of behavior can be consistent with a dirty flame sensor or if the furnace isn't getting enough airflow. I have checked my air filter and it looks fine. I was unable to located the flame sensor and it looks like my unit does not have one. I've included some pictures.

The high limit was indeed being reached. This was confirmed by watching the unit trip the high limit after the burners were turned on.
I had thought that the unit was getting enough air since my filter was new. It turned out that the secondary heat exchanger was packed full of matted dog hair and dust. I'll explain how I cleaned it.

Remove service panels, disconnect wires (orange stars), disconnect spark plug (pink star). Then remove the two screws marked with the blue stars to removed electrical box, gently set aside.

Disconnect the 3 wires attacked to the blower, be sure to note how they were connected, then remove the two screws that keep the blower from sliding out on the metal track (visible in the upper left). Then slide out blower.

Things should then look like this. The secondary heat exchanger is in the back and above the visible foil.

This is what the heat exchanger looked like, and what it looked like after a bit of cleaning.

I then vacuumed the rest of the heat exchanger as well as everything else to try and reduce future buildup. Everything is then put back in reverse order.
Thank you everyone for your help!


Indicator light on electrical switch I just moved in to a house with roof heating cables.  The outlet it is connected to in the garage has an indicator light which comes on in the down position.  The indicator light is off when the switch is in the up position.  Am I correct to assume I leave the switch up when I do not want the cables to work, and that the indicator light will show me in the down position that the heating cables are on?

There are switches with indicator lights that illuminate when on and other switches that illuminate when off. The former are called pilot lights, the latter, illuminated switches.

To determine which yours is, you need to look at the switch without the cover plate and determine which position is ON. While up is the convention for a single pole switch that is completing a circuit, it doesn't really mean anything, since a switch can be mounted upside down.

Most single pole switches have an up indication stamped on the metal mounting frame. If that is positioned up, the switch is connected when the paddle is up.

If there is no indication, you will need a circuit tester to determine which position completes the circuit.


Delay when powering LED light strip I made a "shop lamp" out of an LED strip and power supply.  When I plug it in there is a 1-2 second delay before the lights are powered up.  Do some transformers have a shorter delay than others?

The more 'electronic' a power supply, the longer it takes to start up.  I had this nuisance in my pantry, where I only need light for a few seconds, so I don't want to wait another few seconds every time.  I also have a VERY high current demand from a lot of LEDs in total.

I used a sealed lead acid battery on a trickle charger, and a relays.  Battery is on common.  NO is connected to LEDs.  NC to a trickle charger.

Yeah.  I'll have to replace the battery when it goes out.  Beats waiting for a power supply to ramp up.

Long term, I think I'm going to make a service grade (100-400A) 12/24/48v DC bus for the house, with capacitors for buffering.

You might try a very simple 120vAC to 12vAC transformer (assuming thats your LED's voltage) with a rectifier and capacitor in some enclosure.  You're building electrics at that point, so test, and include fuses, etc.


How to protect outside cable wire from myself? I have a lovely standard black cable wire that wraps almost around my entire house, through, over and under dirt, mulch, rocks, bushes, daffodils...you name it this darn wire hits it all. An arborvitae has lifted it up 2.5 feet into the air at one point.

Before I end up running over it with a mower, or slicing it by way of a shovel or clippers I need to do something with it.

First question is, is it fine the way it is?  I live in the Northeast and we get hot summers and cold winters.  I assume the hot summer sun doesn't provide any benefits.
Should I wrap the sucker in some sort of metal conduit or pvc tubing?

Second question, is it safe to just bury? with or without protection?

Third, currently it is one continuous piece, if I do decide to bury it, I am going to have to cut it somewhere to be able to rethread it behind bushes and set it back closer to the house/foundation.  Will I need a special outdoor cable connector to protect it from water? or is a standard thread connection ok.

If this is a cable TV wire, your best solution is to get it re-run properly by the cable TV company. Unfortunately, that sometimes can only be arranged by figuring out when it would be least inconvenient to you to have the cable out for a while and then running over it with the mower, etc - at least in my experience they are good at coming to fix stuff, bad at fixing it when it ain't broke. Your Mileage May Vary.

Now, if you'd like it run in conduit this time, they are not going to go there, but they generally won't mind if you do, so you might run the conduit (presumably in the "not all the way around the house direction" unless there's some good reason for that) before you mow the lawn and hit the improperly installed cable. If you can avoid most of the around the house run by having an inside the basement run, go ahead and run that cable (they won't do inside cable work, for the most part) and have it handy for connecting to their new cable.

I had a ridiculous replacement cable run when our old one filled up with ice at a bad connector, and for obvious and understandable reasons the installer did not want to run a new one where the old one was going along the icy roof, so he tossed one over the edge and down the outside of the building to the ground. That installer suggested calling back when things were warmer to have a better one placed, or getting an inside cable run and calling back to avoid the roof entirely. I had the inside cable run, called back, and they would not come switch it over; so it sat for several years until I next had a problem with the cable service they would come fix, at which point the installer was happy to switch to the inside cable. I did not actually attack the dubious cable, but I considered it...


should concrete block wall be sealed on top? I have a 2 story + basement townhome with 8" concrete blocks walls between my neighbors. At the top of each shared wall is a sheet metal cap. Some of the cavities have concrete in them but many are completely open from the basement to the roof.

Was this a cost savings approach by the original builder in the 1970s or is there a reason to keep some of the cavities open?
Assuming it's safe to seal these up, what materials can be used to seal them? e.g. concrete, or a boat load of closed cell foam.

Just a guess, but I'd say it was purely a cost saving measure. The sheet metal cap is sloppy, IMHO, but their might be anesthetic reasons for using metal. Personally, I would have gotten concrete wall caps and sealed up the top using those caps. I'm not sure I would fill up the inside if the wall was not load bearing or a retaining wall. Before I filled them, I'd inspect the wall thoroughly for cracks.

If the wall is not load bearing or retaining, one potential risk when filling them up with concrete is that you will more than double the weight of the wall which might trigger settling. I have never worked with foam fillers, foam would certainly weigh less but might be harder to inject.


Low water pressure in house My inside water pressure is very low.  My outside pressure is good.  I did disconnect an old water softener and just connected the input and output pipes from the softener together.  I would like to fix the problem myself without calling a plumber...Any ideas???

If you removed an old water softener it is likely you knocked loose some crud in the lines that has now moved through the pipes to your faucet.  Take off the screen at the faucet tap and clean it out.  It might not be the source of your problem but it's an easy item to check before calling a plumber.


How do I connect 2 hot and 2 neutral wires to single screw terminals? I'm replacing a receptacle with a new USB receptacle. I found 2 white and 2 black wires connected to the old receptacle using separate screw terminals. My new receptacle only has 1 hot and 1 neutral and 1 ground terminals.

Hot side tab is not broken, neutral side has broken tab.

How do I connect 2 hot and 2 neutrals to single screw terminals?

You must determine the properties of the two hot (black) wires. On your receptacle the bond between the two hot screws is broken. Unless you did that in removing the screws that means that probably one of the black wires is from a switch and the other black is hot all the time. Is the bond on the white side also broken? If that is the case, then you want to cap off the black to the switch and its paired white and use the other black and white to power the USB outlet.

Do not directly connect either black wire to a white or to ground. 'Cap-off' means to put a wire nut over the end so it cannot contact another wire or a ground. I assume your new device is a duplex receptacle with USB in the center right?

If one of the black wires is hot and the other is known to feed other receptacles or switches on the same circuit, you may join the two black wires and connect via a pigtail to the new receptacle (and of course do the same with the two white wires). But the missing bond on the black side means you should verify that    one pair of wires (black and white) feeds. Make sure the second black is not hot.


At what height should support handrails be mounted in a home? Mom broke her hip, and I am trying to make her home more elder-friendly while she is in rehab.  While I have found lots of hardware that is available, I have not yet been able to find specs, such as how high a support rail on a regular wall should be, and particularly in the bathtub.  Mom is about 5'2".

ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) spec is 33"-36" off the floor for horizontal grab bars. And given 5'-2", I'd lean to the lower end of that scale.

Suggest you get one inside and outside the bath at whatever end is used most.

ADA.GOV has a lot of good information. (And overkill, like 42" bars at toilets, but I digress.)


Adapting 1/2 hose to sink Im building a simple low pressure foot pump operated sink. What adaptor should I be looking for to go from typical (USA) male faucet threads to 1/2 hose barb?

I'm new to plumbing and have found surprisingly little info on this online.

Just Googling around a bit, it looks like there's some options.

Disclaimer: These are just search results, not brand or store recommendations. I used the search terms: faucet to 1/2" hose barb adapter.

  Brass Quick Garden Water Tap Connector 1/2 Inch to 3/4 Inch Universal Pipe Fitting Adapter Easy Connect Home Yard/Washing Machine Thread Water Faucet

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Universal-Fitting-Adapter-Connect/dp/B078JP7HWS

  1/2 in. Drip-Lock Hose Faucet Adapter

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-2-in-Drip-Lock-Hose-Faucet-Adapter-67495/301043975

This one looks to need a standard faucet to garden hose adapter to meet what you're looking for.

  1/2" ID Hose x Swivel FGHT Nylon Swivel Female Insert

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=63003&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6v7UnPr24wIVhsBkCh2h8wqIEAQYCyABEgIJmvD_BwE

This one also looks to need a standard faucet to garden hose adapter, but at least it's brass.

  Brass Fitting - 3/4" Male Garden Hose X 1/2" OD Barb | Compact

https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Brass_Fitting_3_4_MGH_x_1_2_Barb_Compact_p/brass-3-4-mgh-x-1-2-barb-comp.htm

I can find plenty of faucet to 1/4" adapters, but not a many to 1/2". There's also plenty of adapters to a standard garden hose, but that doesn't seem to be what you're looking for either.

Normally shopping suggestions aren't a good fit for this site, but I think trying to find a non-standard part might be. If people disagree, please vote on the Question, not my answer.


Does corroded copper wiring have a reduced current capacity? update for quick response:

I am fixing the attic outlet right now. The 2nd wire has the same darkish look see https://imageshack.com/a/img924/2614/9a4Xj4.jpg (click zoom to enlarge it). Notice it is only the left wire that is darkish while the right wire is ok. Previously the old owner may either have overloaded or short the wires because it's cut in the middle of the feeder at the slab so only the outlet is working and the rest are disconnected. Now if I can still use it.. should I sand paper it or would the darkish cooper still have full conduction when connecting an outlet to it?

original post

I found one of my wires going into one room has this corroded look (it's just example in the net similar to my actual wire). Was it caused by overcurrent? But overcurrent should burn the wires and not leave it intact, isn't it?

Since I can't insert new wires into 10 meters length to the room with many unknown bends. How many amperage in percentage can it still take compared to original one (it's AWG 10 with 60C rating of 30A)?  How many ampere before the insulation of the following totally break down?

Copper oxidizes when exposed to oxygen in the air.
This is normal.
Your wiring is still able to carry 100% of its rated current.

The end of your question makes me believe that you're confusing voltage (related to insulation breakdown) with current (related to 'ampacity').
Even if the wiring had corroded to the degree where it's current-carrying capacity ('ampacity') was reduced, this would have no direct effect on the insulation on the wires still being able to prevent arcing & short-circuits (breakdown).


Two water softeners connected in series I am trying to fix my existing water softening system, or understand if it needs to be replaced. The system was installed in my house by some previous owner. I have no documentation on the system.

There are two mineral tanks in series. The first has a Autotrol 460i controller (digital) and the tank is smaller. The second tank has a mechanical controller (not digital, I can't read the model number, I can provide a picture if needed) and is significantly larger (perhaps twice the size of the first tank). The second tank has a bypass valve that is set to "service" mode. Both mineral tanks are connected to the same brine tank via plastic tubing with a T fitting.

Could there be a good reason why this system was set up like this, with two separate controllers? I can get the smaller tank with digital controller to do a manual regeneration, but I can't get the mechanical controller (big tank) to do anything. The system has been sitting for a long time and does not regenerate (or work at all). Should I scrap the whole mess and start over, should I try to fix and keep all or part of the existing system?

This could be a system with an iron filter and a softner especially if you have a very high iron content in your water. Softners can only handle small amounts of iron. It could also be a double softner that uses one on a normal basis  and the smaller one  when the system is back flushing. I would call the local water treatment company to check the existing system and make recommendations to you.


Identify older breaker type. Pictures Older house built in florida in 1950's.
states it was "rewired" at some point.

Looking to add a breaker. and do some shopping

Wondering if someone can ID these breakers so i know what im looking for.

Thanks in advance.

One of the types of breakers mentioned in the panel label, Bryant GFCB, are still made.  Bryant was bought by Eaton some time back, so they are now known as Eaton BR   GFCI series.  Most big box and stores stock them, or any electrical supply house will be able to get them for you.

Image from Home Depot - Eaton Type BR GFCB

Interestingly, as Harper notes in the comments, regular non-GFCI type BR breakers are not listed for use with this panel for some reason.  I expect they would still be safe to use since the busing is identical on regular and GCFI type BR breakers, but it would not pass an inspection that way since it is not listed for that use.  So the only currently manufactured breakers originally listed for use with this panel are going to be GFCI type.

It appears that Eaton also makes some cross-listed breakers that are compatible with the original Crouse-Hinds ones.  See this PDF for more details


Roundover router bit to get a large radius molding I'm looking for a router bit (preferrably from named brands like CMT, WPW, Dimar etc) to get a profile of an arc of a large radius, something like 55-60mm and of a chord length equal to something about 30-40mm. This profile (or the one that looks very close to this) is often used on a picture frames you can find in the local stores.
Here is the sketch of the profile I'm trying to get after milling one plane of the rectangular piece of wood with a router:

I have found many bits with a profile that is very close to this one - CMT 954.509.11 (details here - http://www.cmtutensili.it/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/954~2~2~1), but the largest radius I can get from a bit like this is about 19mm.
So, my question is - does anyone know the particular bit that fits my needs described above? Or, alternatively, is there another way to get this profile?

Rough out shape using multiple rips on a table saw, then either

1)  Sand. Create a set of concave sanding blocks by feeding a length of 2x4, on the flat, across a table saw at an angle. Choose an approximately appropriate blade diameter.  Recess will be closest to circular the closer you feed to 90 degrees, and will be an ellipse otherwise.  Cut high quality sanding belts of various grits in half and glue them into the concave recess.

2) Router.  Buy a large high speed steel router bit of any profile and grind it to shape on bench grinder.

I've done both of those.

3) Shaper. Use router like a shaper, making two passes, assuming you can find a wing bit that would cut 1/2 half the profile.

4) Lathe. Turn square stock on a lathe to your diameter, then rip the flats on a table saw. You could get at least two lengths per turning depending on the measurements.


Why do my new basement lights trip the breaker? I am upgrading my basement and the builder initially put the family room and two lights in the basement all on one circuit. During the remodel I tried adding two more lights to that same run and it would trip the breaker after doing so. I believed this was due to having too many sockets on a two 15 amp breaker.

I then upgraded that breaker to a two 20 amp breaker in one. The lights continued to trip so with 3/4 lights on so I decided to remove two lights from that circuit and run it to a new one. So currently the lights should be exactly how the builder left it with two lights on the family room circuit, but with an upgraded 20 amp instead of 15, however that one light still trips the breaker. I am assuming this is due to the light fixture itself now as I replaced the original with a pocket light.

Am I right in thinking that its the new pocket light tripping the breaker somehow, or could it be the cable, or is it still too many items on that run?

Any help/advice is appreciated, I am a novice DIYer. Thanks!

Am I right in thinking that its the new pocket light tripping the breaker somehow, or could it be the cable, or is it still too many items on that run?

Probably none of those.

You have probably miswired a switch. You might have miswired a wiring box. This is easy to do since a white wire is not always neutral, particularly where there is a switch-loop.

  I then upgraded that breaker to a two 20 amp breaker

That is a good way to burn your house down without solving your initial problem.

It is extremely unlikely that your light fitting draws more than 15 amps - that would be an unbearably dazzling and roasting 1800 watt fixture using at least 18 of the brightest and least efficient old-fashioned 100W incandescent tungsten-filament bulbs you could normally find. Maybe fewer if you are cooking your dining table under a large bank of those halogen floodlights designed for exterior use.

It is dangerous to respond to a short-circuit by installing equipment that allows even more current to flow and allow the wiring inside your walls to run far hotter than designed for.

It may be that your circuit wiring is sized for 20A (but why?) in which case my alarm is unjustified (but if so, you should say so in the question).

  I am a novice DIYer.

Trace out the wiring, take clear well-lit well-focussed photos of it all and draw a wiring diagram. Figure out how it is actually connected. You'll likely find the problem that way. If not, post the photos and diagrams here.

Useful references

Electric shock - was I stupid, unlucky, or a combination of both?
When doing electrical work, what do I use to check wires are safe?


Replacing moen 4600 valve I have a Moen 4600 faucet. It leaks quite badly so I am attempting to replace the valve. I have removed the retainer ring but cannot pull the valve out to replace it. It seems to be seized. Any suggestions. Maybe I am missing something - I am not much of a plumber!

There is a "U" shaped clip that holds the cartridge in, it is sometimes hard to spot it. Use an awl or small screwdriver to get the clip out.

It is VERY common for these cartridges to get kind of stuck and be difficult to remove. They make a special puller tool specifically for removing them, you can probably rent the tool at a plumbing shop or good hardware store. The new cartridges come with a tool to assist in breaking the old cartridge loose.

I made my own tool to pull the cartridges out, it is just a flat piece of steel bar stock with a small hole drilled in it. I use the knob screw to fasten my bar to the cartridge stem and then just grab it and pull and twist.

Check out this video.


How do I repair a small leak in a steam radiator? Could this be a big problem? One of my steam radiators has a small leak under the bottom.  No hole is visible, but water drips out at a rate of a few drops per minute.  Various websites suggest applying a 1 mm thick layer of J-B Weld after sanding and cleaning with acetone.

Does the fact that the radiator leaks necessarily mean that it is completely rusted from the inside and that leaks will soon appear elsewhere?  Or is it likely that a slow leak is not due to rust, or that the rust is in only one place?

The radiator is decades old (perhaps even a century), but has been moved recently in order to repair the floor.  The leak is clearly away from the valve.

I haven't had very good luck with repairing steam radiator patches from the outside (sample size: 2). Steam under pressure is very good at finding microscopic holes between patch and substrate, and enlarging them.

What I have done successfully is an inside patch with epoxy, using a wire brush and steel wool to prep the surface. Getting at the leak may be a challenge, particularly with a radiator that has more than 4 sections you may need to break the sections apart (if you do, this is an excellent time to get the exterior sandblasted and painted).

Simplest and most cost-effective solution is probably to find an architectural salvage shop and replace the radiator (they might take your old radiator as a partial trade).


Two circuit breaker switches controlling the same outlet, and a question about removing outlet tabs I've been replacing all the outlets in my house (built in 1949, wiring is newer than that) with white outlets to please the SO.  I came across an outlet where I had to shut off two circuits to get the the plug not to be hot.

After doing some reading, it seems like some of the likely possibilities are

1) mis-wired breaker-box

2) possibly the two circuits are connected in a junction box somewhere.

The second seems likely, as almost every outlet has 4 wires, two hot wires and two neutral wires, and it's easy to discern the pairs.  In general I've just been wiring them like they were, not taking the tabs off the outlets because they weren't off the old outlets.

After reading about this, I realized that if any two of those pairs of wires are on different circuits, I'll have joined the circuits (at least I think that's what I got out of it).

My question is, if there are four wires, is there any reason not to break the tabs on every outlet I'm wiring?

Yes, there is a reason not to break the tabs on every receptacle that has four wires (2 black and 2 white). With the tabs in place the receptacle is a way of joining an incoming line from the panel to a cable which is feeding more receptacles and lights further on. If you would break the tabs on all receptacles, you would have to make these connections with lengths of wire and wire nuts. It would be a lot of trouble.

The only reason to break these tabs is if you want the two receptacles in a duplex receptacle to be powered through two different breakers.

If you have a receptacle with one or both tabs broken and you want to restore the connection between the receptacles, there is a kind of pigtail with wire that can be used to connect the two receptacles, but it is trouble and takes up space.


How can I alter a chimney to make the smoke rise higher? We have a neighbor who loves their fireplace.  Every day the temperature drops below 60 or so, there's a fire.  I love fires, but we smell every one, and don't benefit from the heat :-).  The chimney is four feet from our property line, and the smoke always seems to waft horizontally or down, entering our bedroom and sometimes the back yard.

The fireplace is an EPA registered insert with fan, and they burn fairly fragrant wood. The flue is metal and appears to be 4" in diameter with a metal cap.

They are willing to let me extend the chimney up, perhaps 8 feet.  Would this help?  Is there a way to raise flue temperature so the smoke rises higher and misses our property?

Raising the flue may help a bit by increasing the draft. The direction of the smoke once it exits the chimney is totally dependent on the weather, winds and atmospheric pressure. You will notice that the smoke will go up when the atmospheric pressure is low, and will linger or drop in high pressure.

Raising the flue temp would require they open the damper and burn the wood more rigorously. This is often counter productive and sucks more heat out of the house than it puts in.  Also in the case you site, a single wall metal flue could become extremely hot, especially close to the firebox. The smoke will exit the flue more vigorously, but not necessarily raise far enough before it cools to cure the problem.

Here in Maine where many folks heat with wood, the exhaust smoke is becoming an issue in more densely populated areas. There have been many stories on the news, and experts talking about new wood burning technology, but no one has found a way to reduce smoke pollution from older units, airtite stoves or folks that burn damp, or not fully dried wood.


Will this DIY window fan setup help cool two rooms in our tiny, narrow apartment? Before anything else, here's a visual aid (embedded below) to help you through this wall of text.

My friends and I are renting a second-floor apartment that’s basically one long corridor split into rooms. On one end is the big(ger) bedroom, whose window faces a major thoroughfare (window A). On the other end is a smaller bedroom, whose window faces a quiet street in an adjacent development (window B). In between them is the living room, whose only window consists of a rectangular opening near the ceiling on the wall shared by the big bedroom (window C). The living room has no exterior windows at all, and is not near enough the small bedroom to benefit from any airflow through window B.

We always keep window A closed to keep out the noise and pollution, but that means the big bedroom and living room hardly get any air and, being in a tropical country, the heat builds up like whoa during the day. Since we didn’t want to depend on airconditioning and are unlikely to be allowed to implement major renovations, I did a bit of research and found that mounting fans in window A and C might be our best option.

For the big bedroom, I designed a vertical sort of housing to be fitted with four fans (or a pair of twin fans). The upper two should draw the hot air out of the room, while the lower two should draw air from outside, but through a filter sandwich. This setup is to be mounted somehow in between the sliding glass panels of window A. We should be able to turn off each fan individually, using switches. The whole thing should be easy to clean, with the filters easy to replace (or remove for cleaning).

For the living room, I have this vague idea of installing a pair of fans in window C, but that seems to mean that I’d be dumping the hot air from the living room to the big bedroom, which ultimately means that window A’s four-fan setup will be handling two rooms. I’m not sure if it can even handle that.

My questions are:

Will this even work? I don't plan on operating the air-in and air-out fan sets simultaneously, of course, but I do realize I'm exhausting hot air into and drawing in new air from the same side of the building.
How do I mount it in between two sliding glass panels? Security won't be an issue as the whole window area is enclosed with a wrought-iron grill.
Size/power considerations: can this adequately ventilate 2 rooms?
Anything else I can improve?

A note on the diagrams: the colors for the four-fan setup are just to help me distinguish surfaces/components. The actual product, should it see the light of day, will likely just be painted white.

Any feedback is appreciated. I’m no ventilation expert (obviously); I just google stuff a lot and spend way too much time with Sketchup. If you guys have any other ideas, I’d love to hear them.

Click any for a large image.

If you have ANY traditional AC system this is a terrible idea, it is allowing a significant amount of conditioned air to naturally transition outside.

If you already reliant on natural air flows and fans, can time it right to feed cool air in, and use some insulated panels to manually block either/both sides not in use it will help. Also, fans are typically (manufacturer specs can greatly differ) more efficient the larger they are, the longer the blades the more curved they get because they are laterally spinning faster at the same RPM; so if you double the width you could place a fan on each half.

Even with this, seal and insulate all areas possible. Most caulking is relative easy to remove so I'd caulk the fan in and remove during the cold season. Insulating and blocking off windows that you don't mind blocking, like bathroom windows already with heavy privacy shades or ones facing the non-sunny side. There are plenty of additional, and better, ways but I can't think of any other right now like these that you can do to a rental and on a budget.


Why are my circuit breakers not tripping? I live on Vancouver Island. My house is less than 10 years old. It is equipped with Siemens QT circuit breakers.
I could not find a specific breaker so I intentionally shorted the circuit at the outlet but no breakers tripped. I did the same with another circuit and again no breakers tripped. I did a third circuit with the same results.
I used an old extension cord and cut off one end and bared the wires. Plugged it into the socket and got the expected result, a large flash. I touched the wires again with the same result.
Surely at this point the breakers should trip. I think this is weired.

Any help would be appreciated.

I now feel that my house is not properly protected

Standard circuit breakers are not designed to trip instantaneously for all loads.  Breakers are designed with time curves they must meet, and for anything but the highest currents there is a noticeable delay from seconds to hours.

Schneider Electric PDF:  Your brand/type of breakers could differ from this chart, but the concepts are largely the same for most magnetic circuit breakers.

Here's some math provided by Tester101 in the comments below:

  14 gauge solid uncoated copper is 0.00307 ohms per foot. A 100 ft. run of #14 would be 0.614 ohms (200 ft. * 0.00307 = 0.614 ohms). According to Mr. Ohm, Current (I) = Volts (V) / Resistance (R). Therefore a direct short would be 195.44 amperes (120 V / 0.614 = 195.44 A). Which is 13 times a 15 ampere circuit, so it should trip within 2-3 seconds. Even with a 200 ft. 20 ampere circuit, it would be 310.88 amperes (200 * 0.00193 = 0.386 120 / 0.386 = 310.88) . Which is 15 times rated current, and again 2-3 seconds to trip. However, that's based on the trip curve in the posted link, which may be different than the trip curve of the breakers in question.

I've marked an example on the chart which shows that at a current of 15 times the rated current, it can take up to 2 seconds to trip (download the PDF and zoom in so you can actually read all the numbers).  For a 15 amp breaker, that's over 200amps for almost 2 seconds.  That's enough power to melt strands of your extension cord and possibly damage whatever you used to short the first two outlets.

When you touch two wires, only a small area of the wire touches, and explosively heats and melts (the POP and spark).  I suspect if you stripped the extension cord and used a proper wire clamp on the ends to make a good connection, you might be able to pull enough current to quickly trip the breaker, assuming the outlet doesn't internally melt from arcing when you plug it in.

The main point is that this IS NOT a good thing to do.  Tripping a breaker to find it with a short is pretty dangerous, and you can damage outlets or other wire junctions in the process.  If there's a wire nut in an adjacent outlet that's not making the best connection, it could melt.  Then you have to find and fix that which could be a challenge unless smoke and fire direct you to the problem area.

Plug in a radio, turn it up, and start manually throwing breakers.  When the music stops, you found the right breaker.  Don't purposely short wires.


How can I completely disengage a GFCI outlet? I have 2 GFCI outlets under the peninsula in my kitchen.  I never use these outlets and would like to disconnect them and remove the outlets so I can panel over them. These are on a circuit with other GFCI outlets.  Can I simply disconnect the outlets and place wire nuts on each wire and panel over the holes? Or do I have to connect some of the wires to keep the entire circuit engaged?

Just don't -- you can't "panel over" boxes and make them inaccessible as a result and you must have at least one receptacle installed and hot on a 24" by 12" or larger peninsula.


What's it called? Leather square I want to acquire a piece of black leather with "rings" in it - holes that have been reinforced with a steel ring like you might find on a tarp.

####################################
#O################################O#
####################################
#O################################O#
####################################

It would look like that. Like everything else in life, I'm sure I could find it online if I knew what it was called. When I search for 'leather piece with ring' I mostly just get keychains. Thanks!

Eyelets or grommets

Sorry for a one-line answer, but that's all you need to know.


Dual oven with 6 wires I bought a used dual oven, which has 6 wires coming out of it.
Unfortunately, it didn't come with a manual, and even the online installation instructions aren't much help. (The manual, as well as the tag on the oven, only refer to "3-wire"...)

Model: Kitchen Aid YKEBS277WB-0
SN: XX4901044

The only manual I've found is here.

Pictures of the wires, and where they end up (including the tech sheet that was inside the oven) are available here.
I tried calling Kitchen Aid, but they were of no help ("oven is too old"...)

I hooked up red->L1, black->L2, white->neutral, green->ground, and the upper oven worked, but not the lower one. (I wasn't quite sure what to do with blue & yellow.)

I've followed Jim's advice, and connected red & yellow to L1, and black & blue to L2, and everything is working fine now.


Do I need to dismantle the ballast on a metal halide bulb fixture before replacing with an LED bulb? Is it necessary to dismantle the ballast on a metal halide fixture before popping in a corncob type LED bulb? Halide is 120w, LED will be @45w.

LED light bulbs generally need to be connected to the mains directly, assuming they are designed for 120/240 Volts AC.

LED light bulbs do not need a ballast, a ballast is only needed for gas discharge lamps like Metal halide and fluorescent lamps. You might even damage a LED light by leaving the ballast in place.

So yes, you need to remove it and connect the 120/240 V AC LED bulb directly to the mains.


Can you safely install high-pressure sodium wall packs indoors? I really like the appearance of old street lights (the high-pressure sodium kind). To get the same effect indoors, I was thinking of getting an ordinary high-pressure sodium wall pack (like this one, but ideally at a lower wattage), wiring it appropriately, and mounting it to an interior wall of my apartment.
Is there any non-obvious reason why this is a bad idea? Is it a safety risk or a fire hazard to install HPS wall packs like this one indoors? Is whether I use a junction box relevant, and is a GFCI necessary?

Other than quickly reducing your visitors (wow, remember when we had visitors?) to those like-minded individuals who love HPS light, there's no issue with putting a wet-rated "exterior" fixture indoors, unless the instructions forbid that. Indoors is generally a less extreme environment than outdoors, so a fixture that operates safely outdoors will operate safely indoors.
Other potential downsides: I think 35W is about as low as you can go with HPS bulbs that I've seen, and there IS the fact that they take 5 minutes or more to turn all the way on.
If the wall pack is designed to mount to a junction box, you must use one. If the wall-pack design incorporates a junction box you don't need another. You don't need a GFCI on lighting circuits if they are hard-wired unless they are too close to a tub or shower - you do if they are cord-and-plug, or too close to/over a shower or tub.

For a similar (not the same, though it is the same color temperature) color and faster turn on with lower wattages, there are 2000K LEDs available.


Are there locations in a residence where a non tamper resistant receptacle can still be used? Assume for a second that my jurisdiction has adopted 2011 NEC code as legally binding without significant amendment. This code requires (406.11) that 120V 15/20A outlets in all areas defined in NEC 210.52 must be tamper-resistant, and that existing grandfathered outlets are only grandfathered until replaced; any replacement must be TR. Exceptions are:

Outlets more than 5.5' off the ground (only common one I can think of is the one for a garage door opener)
Outlets designed to be used by a major appliance which normally blocks access to the receptacle (mostly in the kitchen; fridge/stove/oven/dishwasher)
Outlets built in to light fixtures or lumieres (and so replacing them would involve replacing the entire light fixture which may be expensive or impossible)

210.52 covers pretty much any outlet in an interior space of a residential building, including attached garages. It doesn't specifically cover closets but the NEC doesn't treat closets any differently than the interior space containing the closet. It also doesn't (AFAIK) cover attic spaces that haven't been finished. I don't have a basement so don't worry about that.

All that being said, is there any outlet in my house, besides the one for the fridge (ex 2), stove (ditto) and garage door opener (ex 1 - on the ceiling), that wouldn't be required to be TR if/when I replace it?

This also begs the (somewhat argumentative) question of why standard (non-TR) outlets are still sold to "amateur" electricians. At least in my area, they are only code-compliant in commercial spaces that aren't healthcare, child care or hotel spaces (ask the next 100 people who buy an outlet where they plan to install it, and 99 will say "in my home"), and in VERY LIMITED circumstances in residential, where a TR outlet would also be just fine. I'm not sure exactly how the store would be expected to tell who would install it in a compliant way, but it seems disingenuous for a store to sell 10-packs of outlets that would be illegal to install without at least having the POS system throw up a flag at checkout (like they already do for age-restricted items like glues/paints/solvents).

While Article 406.11 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units. existed in NEC 2008, it was revised as Article 406.12 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles in Dwelling Units. in NEC 2011. And it says Tamper-Resistant Receptacles are required in all areas listed in Article 210.52

National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 210 Branch Circuits
210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets.
(A) General Provisions.

kitchen
family room
dining room
living room
parlor
library
den
sunroom
bedroom
recreation room
or similar room or area of dwelling units

(B) Small Appliances
(C) Countertops
(D) Bathrooms
(E) Outdoor Outlets
(F) Laundry Areas
(G) Basements and Garages
(H) Hallways

With the following exceptions.

Ex.: Receptacles in the following locations aren’t required to be tamper-resistant:
(1) Receptacles located more than 5½ ft above the floor.
(2) Receptacles that are part of a luminaire or appliance.
(3) A receptacle located within dedicated space for an appliance that in normal use isn’t easily moved from one place to another.
(4) Nongrounding receptacles used for replacements as permitted in 406.4(D)(2)(a).


Why is a steel security door safe if they can break the glass, slide their hand in, and unlock the door? OK I had a hard time thinking of a good title but here's the gist of the problem/concern I have which I can't find an answer to anywhere online. Please note that this is a very specific but common circumstance so please read every detail of the post.

Many front doors have glass. That glass can be knocked in or shattered. From there the burglar can either squeeze through the hole where the glass once was, if it's a large enough hole, or the burglar can slide his or her hand in and unlock the door giving them access to the house. I am affected by this scenario because I have a wooden door with a large glass oval in the center and I don't feel safe with it.

I've been looking at steel door cages and steel window cages (since I don't technically need to cage the entire door I just need to cage the window part of the door). You can find examples here, http://www.homedepot.com/b/Doors-Windows-Doors-Security-Doors/N-5yc1vZaqqe.

The Problem:

Now yes, these steel cages will prevent the burglar from knocking out the glass and squeezing through the hole but it will still not prevent the burglar from knocking out the glass and sliding his or her hand through one of the gaps in the steel cage and unlocking the door. I can't imagine that I'm the first one to think of that flaw so what is the answer to that problem? Ultimately I'm looking for any suggestions someone may have. I understand that I could just buy a new door without any glass but that's my last resort because I love the look of having glass and I like the fact that it brings in more sun light. I also understand that I could get a mesh design steel cage but I honestly think that would look horrible and it would not match the neighborhood I live in. I'm actually in a very nice neighborhood and the house is pretty nice so I probably have no reason to be this secure but I feel like you can never be too safe.

Thanks to Bib's answer below I just purchased two of these Schlage B62621 Distressed Nickel B-Series Double Cylinder Grade 1 Deadbolt from the B-Series B62 from Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L1UD4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00. I like this solution because it's simple and all I have to do is replace the existing Deadlock Bolt. I am a bit concerned about fire safety e.g., if there is a fire and I cannot find the key I will have to jump out the window from the second floor. I decided however that I can screw in a 12 inch chain to the wall and pin the other end to the key. This will ensure that the key is always present but that it's far enough away so that even if the glass is busted in the intruder will not be able to reach it.

I'm still open to other solutions and I think more solutions will benefit the community so please share!

You could just chill out.  Putting  up bars or plastic on that door is truly ghetto.

Doors like this are not inherently unsafe at all.  Your door is appropriate for your neighborhood.  Your door would be unsafe or inappropriate for a bad neighborhood or an apartment building.  Having this glass probably does not effect your chances of burglary by .0000000001%.  Having a fake security sign in your front yard would probably be a better deterant by 1000000 times vs bars over the glass.

The fact is glass next to a door is hardly ever the easiest and most elusive way for a burglar to open a door.  If you are in a nice neighborhood breaking into a house the last thing you want to do is break glass as that screams call the cops on me.  For your door I would simply kick it in if I were not going in a window or something like that.  Even with a decent deadbolt (less than 2 inches) it would be faster to kick in the door vs break glass as I can shut door after kicking it in and it looks "normal" vs what the hell is on the other side of the glass.

The point is spend your time on something else.  You can get really good deadbolts, plastic your windows, stuff like that but that doesn't deter.  A little 6" security sign, motion activated spot lights, getting rid of bushes and limbs that hide your house, not throwing away boxes for flat screen TVs at the curb, watching who you let in your house, not leaving a spare key in your yard, and so on are far more important than your door issue.   You aren't the first person to think of this, it just isn't that important compared to everything else.


Lights that turn on when others are ON I'm looking to buy/make some lights that turn on when they detect light. My wife and I live in an apartment that's small and poorly-lit. We can't install permanent light fixtures, and all the lamps we've looked at take up too much floor space or would have to be placed in walking areas to be useful. So I'm looking for some kind of light fixture that can be mounted on a wall or ceiling with command strips or small nails.

I'd like some lights that turn on when other lights are turned on. Like the opposite of a night light. That way we can still control all the lights in a room with one switch without changing the wiring. The light controlled by the switch would turn more lights on.

I think I could easily build a circuit to do this, with a photoresistor and some NPN transistors, but I don't have the tools to make something that would look nice right now. Is there already a commercial product that would fit our needs?

You'll need to get power to it somehow.  What I'm thinking is surface conduit from your existing switch or light to wherever you need to go.  Simply run the switched-hot through the surface conduit to where you need to be.

Surface conduit such as Wiremold is fully code legal and allowed for permanent wiring, which saves  you doing some goofy, illegal horked up thing.

Or if the problem is getting switched-hot to the switches, but you can run always-hot to them, then go with X-10 or some other smart-switch control system, of which there are plenty today.  (X-10 goes back to the 1970s).

You could also consider low-voltage lighting if you don't want to use surface conduit, the rules for cabling low-voltage circuits are relaxed as compared to mains circuits.


Connecting a ceiling fan with lamp to white and blue house wires I've purchased a Hampton Bay ceiling fan with a lamp and I'm trying to connect it to my house wiring.
I can see the following house wires:

2 connected (twisted) white wires
one wire of blue'ish color (maybe purple, I'm not good with colors)

What I've tried:

I connected the white fan wire to the white twisted pair of house wires.
All the other fan wires were connected to the blue house wire.
Result: short circuit and a broken switch.

House wires:

Fan wires (2 green, blank, white, blue):

How should I connect my ceiling fan to the house wires that I have?

These fans have one hot wire for powering the fan (usually the black) and another another hot wire powering the light (usu blue). These go to separate pull chain switches in the fan assembly.
The fan and light share a neutral (white). Note that in your house wiring all neutrals will be white, but depending on the age of your house, white may be used for a hot or switched hot so it is not correct to just connect all whites without knowing the function of a given white.
The green is a ground so if you connected the green to either the black or the blue it would short to ground as soon as the switch was turned on with the breaker on. The green should be connected only to the ground of the house wiring.
If you have only one wall switch and so only one hot wire from the house (black), then connect the black and the blue of the fan to the black of the house. Separate pull chain switches allow  separate control of fan and light.


Cosmetic plug for 3/4" hole in drywall? I want to move my router from my office to the hall, directly through the drywall on both sides, and then run the router power cable (low-voltage because it is post-transformer) and two Cat6 cables (one to cable modem and one to switch) straight through the pair of holes. I'd like some sort of plug or bushing (PVC?) to be put into the holes in the drywall so it doesn't just look like a hole in the drywall. It would need to be 3/4" outside diameter. Any ideas?

Happy holidays,
Lud Nom

A partial solution is to install cat5 jacks connected to each other instead of a straight through cable.

As for the power cable, that is a strange one.  Wouldn't it be better to have the wall wart and cable inside the room?  Trying to do a jack or cable running through a tight conduit is a recipe for built-in obsolescence and/or compatibility.


What is the best approach to install crown molding on uneven top cabinets? In our previous kitchen the crown molding was installed on top of the cabinets.
It was secure with screws in the back. Removeable, great finishing and no damage to the cabinet front.
Something like this:

I remodeled our kitchen and the plan was to install crown molding in the same fashion however, I'm now facing two issues:

Due to poor quality control the the cabinet tops are uneven in some joints by a small amount like 1/16".
The fridge panel is higher than the cabinets by about 1/4" (see pics).

I see two options:

Level the top - I have no idea how (open to suggestions).
Overlay the crown molding.

What I want to avoid is to nail it to the front of the face frame because if something goes wrong... then the front will be damaged with nail holes. Also because the crown molding is already finished it doesn't seem like a good idea anyway.
I though that maybe I could overlay it about 1/4" with the face frame to hide the top issues.

Hence the questions: is this a valid approach? Do you see any problems I might face for doing it this way? How something like this is usually resolved out there?

I think you have it right.
A mounting block installed at the top of the cabinet face is the way to go. In your previous kitchen the crown molding was top mount. I've often seen that installed with a mounting block or nailer fastened to the back of the cabinet face and the molding nailed or glued to the front of the nailer.
With the issues you described the surface mount crown molding the way you drew it up is the best solution. For extra stability on the nailer you might want to consider building a simple L (actually, an upside down L) mount. Depending on the depth of the offset at the top of the cabinet behind the cabinet face you could fasten a 1x2 so it extends up vertically over the top of the cabinet and then add your nailer so it butts up to it.
Small differences in the height of the cabinets won't matter much and will be covered by the molding. However, you can always use a sander to quickly remove any major differences in height.


Gas company decided to shut off gas due to leak from backfeed I decided to call Nicor Gas this morning, because I smelled some gas around the meters. They sent a technician out promptly, and found that there was a pipe pushing gas out the house from the same one feeding into the house. He wrote on the tag that gas had to be shut off due to safety relating to backfeed from fuel line that goes into the house. Sounds like contractors who did rehab tied two gas lines inside into one somewhere. The Nicor tech told me I have to hire a plumber to trace the pipe causing this. This house was converted from a 2 unit home to a single family. Is there anything i should be looking for before I call someone or just hire a plumber who specializes in gas plumbing?

If it was two homes there are probably two meters. If you see a second meter turn one off .If they are tied together anywhere the one working meter will feed everything.  If however they removed the meter and piped straight across where the meter used to be.... you have an un metered line feeding the house. That's the first thing to look for. The place where the second meter used to be. EITHER WAY HAVE A PROFESSIONAL HAVE A LOOK


Is there a way to know if my garage door is open remotely? Is there a way to know if my garage door is open remotely? Some times I find my garage door open for no reason. I have expensive bikes in the garage and I don't want to worry about them.

Maybe get a notification when it's open. I only want to open it when I am in front of the garage. The garage has no side doors. I live in a condo.

If you're into DIY;
you could easily create a setup with arduino, you can check if the door is open with infrared distance sensor or a magnetic switch.
Or you could just create a circuit that is closed when the door is closed and feed that information into an arduino?

http://www.robotshop.com/blog/en/arduino-5-minute-tutorials-lesson-4-ir-distance-sensor-push-button-2-3637
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/13769/how-can-i-detect-if-a-garage-door-is-opened-or-closed#13771


run compact dishwasher drain pipe into kitchen sink Amazingly I could not find any information about this on the internet!!!

I am renting a flat and the only option I have if I want a dishwasher is to buy a tabletop/compact dishwasher. Because of the layout of the kitchen, the only option I would have is to run the drainpipe into the kitchen sink...i.e.not connected below the sink to the trap, but just running the drain into the main sink from above the work surface where the dishwasher would be placed. Is this feasable? Would I need to make the drain pipe go up and then down or could i run it horizontal along the worktop and then down into the sink fr it to work properly?

The reason for the high loop or air gap in dishwasher drains when installed below the counter are because of the risk of drain water being pushed back into the dishwasher. If you have a clog in the sink and don't have that high loop, water can drain into the dishwasher and flood out your kitchen. So with a countertop dishwasher, I don't see the need for the high loop since the drain hose is already above the level of the countertop.


Darker areas on paint where I previously applied filler Recently I painted walls in bathroom with latex water-dispersion paint. The walls were quite even, except some minor defects and a few major ones. I applied "acrylate" filler (that's what the can says) on those defects. In case of major defects I appiled about 4 millimeters of filler. I let the filler dry out, sanded it and applied two layers of paint.

Now I see that the paint coating is slightly darker where I applied a thick layer of filler. I suppose the filler hasn't dried completely and now releases moisture and this propagates through paint.

Do I take any special measures or just wait till it dries up? How long should I wait? Have I screwed it?

I would wait for a couple of days to see if the filler (which maybe absorbed water from the paint) dries completely and then the color matches.  But since you didn't prime the filler (or maybe it didn't dry completely), possibly where it was thick, it has modified the color of the paint.  If the area is still darker after a couple of days of letting the paint/filler dry, then I would apply primer to those areas and repaint.  Hopefully you can use the same roller nap and get a good match on texture so you will not have to repaint the entire wall.


Whirlpool dishwasher: can't set program and just says "Out" My whirlpool dishwasher (ADG 8410 FD) won't allow me to set a program. The display just says "Out", and when I close it, you can hear the drain pump for about a minute and then it stops and beeps a couple of times.

My first thought was that "out" meant outlet. So I disconnected the pipe and poured water into the dishwasher base so the filter area was full. Turned it on and all that water drained without issue (leaving a very small puddle at the bottom).

There's nothing in the manual that says about this "out" message. Nothing online. Any ideas? There is no F error. Turning off/on at the plug does nothing - as soon as the dishwasher is turned on it shows "Out" on the display.

Thanks in advance,

Sam

Possible (probable in my limited experience) problem : the wires are corroded.

Take off the panel and inspect the cable (likely green with flat copper strands). If it's corroded, gently clean it with a magic eraser, or harsher methods if necessary.  Then coat it with liquid electrical tape.  Finally, inspect the seal around the door - it can be knocked off-kilter pretty easily, and just needs to be set back in place.

As I said my exp is limited, but with my dishwasher and range microwave, this has been the problem when display was snafu'ed.

If a noticeable amount of steam leaked from the top of your dishwasher in recent months, this is almost definitely the problem.

There should be some videos on how to remove the panel if you want a step by step.  Good luck!


How to hang IKEA KUNGSFOR kitchen suspension rails, partly in stud, partly in plasterboard I'm looking to install 2 IKEA KUNGSFOR suspension rails to create a combination close to this, but with 1 fewer shelf and using a grid on the back instead.

My kitchen is fairly small (formed from the recesses of 2 other rooms) and the wall I want to mount the rails / grid / shelf on is a stud partition wall.

I am able to line up one of the suspension rails with a stud, but not the other.

For the stud fastenings I planned on using 3 x 5ø 60mm wood screws.

For the plasterboard fastenings I'm not sure what the best option is. The weight of the setup before any load is:

2 x Suspension Rails: 1.0kg each = 2.0kg
Grid: 1.3kg
Shelf: 2.5kg
Magnetic Rail: 0.7kg
Total: 6.5kg

Ultimately this will be used for storing knives (on the magnetic rail), various kitchen implements (e.g. spoons, spatulas, ladle etc.) and on the shelf a stainless steel pot and pan. It won't be used for extraordinarily heavy loads (e.g. cast iron pans, heavy jars, etc.)

What would be the most suitable fixing for the 1 rail that needs to be fastened to plasterboard, if safely possible?

I know you say you are not going to put a row of heavy jars on - but you are probably going to leave that in place when you eventually move out, and the new owner may have different ideas.

For this sort of application I would go for the strongest fixings available - which are a gravity toggle.  Fischer claim theirs have a pull-out strength of 20kg which gives you plenty of margin for error.

This page gives details of the various sorts of plasterboard fixing available, and their ratings. (Note: that is the Fischer site, but other manufacturers have very similar products available.)


Need info on AFCI requirements Are AFCI breakers required on 30 amp dryer circuits and 50 amp furnace and stove circuits or just the 20 and 15's?

I haven't done residential in a long time. Thanks fellas.

Assuming that you're concerned with AFCI requirements in dwellings, the generic National Electrical Code (NEC) 2014 edition, Section 210.12 only requires AFCI for selected "120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits", according to their locations.  Additional requirements may apply for plug-connected room-air conditioners (Art 440) and with interconnected power sources (Section 705.12(D)) related to utility-connected inverters.  In theory, a 230-v A/C requires "factory-installed" AFCI, if connected via plug and cord. Section 440.65.

Local codes may vary (somewhat wildly) on the requirements for any AFCI at all.


Is this mold or is it something else? I recently moved from Southern California to the Pacific Northwest, just outside of Seattle. I rented a house and have been living in it for ~3 months.
Just earlier today, in the seldom-entered guest bedroom, I noticed some white fuzzy substance under the bed.  I've never seen anything like this in any home in which I've previously lived.
Does this look like mold? The carpet does feel somewhat damp though it's not outright wet.

It looks like a fungus to me see the light fuzz. Here in the PNW it is fairly common in dark and damp areas. I have seen this on carpet and Sheetrock many times. Even though our humidity is not extreme like back east we do have many mold and fungus problems because of our moderate temperatures and year round moisture. I find the least offensive method to kill it is a 3% hydrogen peroxide and water solution will kill it (use caution as it can discolor some materials even at this dilution) but it doesn’t stink like bleach. Note this will also take care of mold & mildew you may find in your window tracks& sliding door tracks that very commonly grow “gunkies” in our area.


How can I fill a small gap in a sink drain pipe? I'm replacing a bathroom sink. I messed up (long story, I already forgot the ugly details) by grinding out the piece that the P trap slides into, messing up the threads on the inside of the pipe coming out of the wall. I keep making trips to hardware stores thinking I'm finally getting something that will fit just right but nothing produces anything close to a tight fit, not even the soft adapter with a hose clamp (which would also require a bigger hole in the drywall for tightening the clamp).

I have something that fits loosely over the pipe coming out of the wall. My question is if there is a filler I can use in there to make it a snug fit that can hold up over time? I'm guessing regular plumber's putty would erode?

If not, I'm open to other ideas. The pipe only sticks out of the wall about 1/2".

No to fillers.  Also no to epoxy.  Hire a plumber and get it fixed right. Small leaks, especially those at a sink, turn into rotten cabinets, rotten sub floor, smelly mildew, possibly mold and an unhappy spouse.  Don't go cheap and regret it forever.


Concrete Block Raised Pond - Will it be strong enough? I've had a builder build me a small concrete block raised bed (internal dimensions 3m x .8m x .5m) with a soil base. It's not reinforced but built out of cemented standard engineering  concrete block and rendered on 2 faces.
I've had the genius idea (;)) of making it a small water feature with pump and little water feature. I'll obviously use liner.
edit - the side wall water depth will be only 35cm
My DIY brain says that the walls will easily hold the water as it's only 50cm high but now I'm doubting my fag packet logic - before filling it.
Obvious question coming - are the concrete walls going to be strong enough? If not, can I reinforce them retrospectively? Any other sage advice would be much appreciated.

Not sure what it might be called where you are, but there's a "reinforced stucco" (might be called reinforced render in where you are) that can be used to drystack blocks and then bond them together as a unit - parging a layer of that around the inside would provide some structural benefits. If you can't find the product as a product, you might be able to find loose reinforcing fibers for cementitious products and add them to a render/stucco coat for the same effect. "Surface bonding cement" seems to be another name for it. Third possibility - the render coat you have might already be reinforced?
As to whether or you need to do anything, partly depends on frost movement or lack thereof as a concern - you are correct that it's not very deep, so the pressure is quite low, but unreinforced masonry has very little tensile strength. If the water was not drained and it froze, you can just about guarantee that it will crack, unless you shape it to have tapered sides. Even emptied, movement from frost in the ground will usually crack unreinforced walls. If frost is unheard of in your location, that might be a reason not to bother doing anything. Since you are using a liner, tapering the sides should be as easy as building up sand against the wall before placing the liner.


Where can I find a metal circular trim? I am cutting a large circular hole in some Ikea furniture and I need a metal trim to cover inside of the hole. I'm not sure what the right words are that would describe this part. Do you know where I might find something that can cover the inside of a circle cut out of wood?

What I'm looking for is something that looks like this and is roughly 10-15 cm in diameter, but in two pieces so each side is protected. I'm not sure what they are called though?

Are you looking for a desk grommet?

I would recommend getting the trim piece prior to making the hole, as your size options will not be unlimited.


Can I mix acrylic paint with latex paint? I have a gallon of interior latex paint (with primer mixed in) and a gallon of interior acrylic paint (with primer mixed in). The color I want is somewhere in between the two.

Can I blend these two paints together? Will it affect how it dries or how long it will last?

The internet yields inconsistent and confusing results. Also this answer implies acrylic and latex paints are the same, but I'm not sure if it's the same context (I don't know what "water dispersion paint" is).

There actually is no difference between latex and acrylic paints because there is no latex in latex paints. Let me explain. All water based paints today are referred to as "latex", even though there is absolutely no latex rubber in the formula. ... Better quality paints have more acrylic resins than vinyl.

The acrylic paint for walls simply are thicker with more teeny acrylic beads that bind together when the water evaporates. THey pull together and tighten creating a coated surface of plastic polymer. The liquids in the paint may have some additives to strengthen and thicken this process. The thinner the paint (cheaper) means the less polymer beads the paint has in it.  Thus making the issue of multiple coats to fill in the areas that the beads were spread apart. Pigments are the colors added to the medium (polymers & Liquid). Curing in the case of Acrylics is simply a drying process that tightens and pulls the polymer beads together. No chemical change is needed other than evaporation. Its not oil based.


Was it correct to connect all the ground wires for my new outlets? I have a new home built this year. Made a workbench in the basement. There are no outlets in this half of the basement.
I mounted a metal outlet bar on the front of the bench, wired house wire (3 wire) to bar black to black, white to white and ground to ground. Ran wire to ceiling light which was a plastic box and plastic light bulb fixture. when I took apart the black was to black, white was to white, 3 wires each my wire the house wire and the light fixture wire.
Here's the part I'm confused on. The ground from the house was capped off and not connected. I connected the ground from my wiring from the plug bar to that ground and all worked fine but as an amateur I wasn't sure it was correct and safe so I took it apart. Was this correct?

Based on my understanding of your situation...

You ran a new cable from a light box which contained a source cable
You connected that cable's ground wire to your new cable's ground wire
You connected the other end of your new cable's ground wire to the receptacle bar

That's all correct, assuming you used appropriate connection technique and components.
One suggestion is that the light circuit may be a 15A circuit, which somewhat limits the tools you can run from it without tripping the breaker. You might pull a new run from a 20A outlet circuit or directly from the panel (taking appropriate precautions) on a new 20A breaker.


What size electrical breaker and wire do I need for a 230 volt, 40amp. cutterhead motor? I need to know what size wire and breaker I need to wire in a 230 volt 40 amp. cutterhead motor

40 ampere breaker
8 AWG copper, or 6 AWG aluminum conductors (See National Electrical Code 2014 Table 310.15(B)(16)).


Help – keep garage dry and well-ventilated (dryer exhaust hose) I just got an old car and need to keep my garage dry and well-ventilated.
Right now my biggest problem is that I have about 3 feet of 4-inch dryer exhaust hose going from my laundry room to a hole that feeds the exhaust right into the garage.  It blows a lot of warm and humid air into the garage.

Should I do the work to redirect this hose to the outdoors?
Can I avoid that by getting another length of hose, connecting it to the exhaust hole, and letting the output end sit under the garage door?
Any other ideas?

My neighbor had a handy man run about 20 feet of 4" PVC sch 40 pipe and 3 elbows through his garage and exit through the wall. The dryer runs fine with no change in the dryers performance.


kitchen sink plumbing hook up I am remodeling and I have to replace kitchen cabinets and sink, I was thinking if I had a set up like I do for my washing machine,-in wall faucets and drain it would make it easy to disconnect and move sink out to replace the bad floor then put it back until the new cabinets come in.   do they make something like this, is it a good idea?

If you really want to go through this effort (rather than just capping off the lines), then you should just install the lines into the walls (if they aren't already).

Normally you'd just cap the lines off until you're ready to hook everything up (as seen in my picture above), but there's nothing stopping you from putting valves on instead of caps, which is a great idea anyway (it makes it easier to hook up, service later, etc).

With the pipes in the walls, you can freely work on the floor and install cabinets without worrying about them (and as you can see in this photo, it was before I had flooring or cabinets in).

Here's the same connections (with valves) after installing cabinets and the new sink:

Nothing stops you from using valves instead of caps, though it does require cutting a bigger hole in the cabinet to install. Depending on your cabinet style you may or may not like this -- in my case these are pretty cheap cabinets installed in a laundry room in the basement, I wasn't too worried.

Just be sure you don't accidentally knock the vales open while you're working, or you'll ruin the floor that you're not even finished installing yet!


How to measure water pump pressure in a spa heating system? Short version (TL;DR): how can I measure the output pressure of a water pump in a spa heating system and verify that it is within the gas heater input pressure specs?

The Whole Story

I'm trying to troubleshoot an outdoor spa heating system in my parent's home which is located in SW Brazil. Its simplified diagram is as follows:

(just replace the word pool by outdoor spa and remove the word filter and that's exactly what I have)

The heater is about 6m (20 feet) away (horizontally) and 1.5m (5 feet) above the pump.

The Pump

The pump picture and specs are the following:

Power: 220W
Input voltage: 220V AC
Frequency: 60Hz
Maximum temperature: 90ºC
Maximum pressure (suction/input): 60mWc (meters of water column) or 85psi
Maximum pressure (output): 12.5mWc or 17.8psi
Maximum flow: 58L/min
Connections: 1''
Weight: 5.0kg
Country of origin: Brazil

Product link: Texius TBHGF • 220W

The Gas Heater

The relevant gas heater specs and info are below:

Minimum water input pressure: 2.5mWc or 3.5psi

Product link (similar to mine, which is outdated): Orbis passage gas heater - model 315

Symptoms

The heating system was working properly until we noticed a significant decrease in the hot water flow coming into the spa and increase in its temperature. After a while, the heater would turn off even with the pump turned on. Now the heater won't even start (it won't even make the sparks that light up the gas). I did replace the 1.5V D alkaline battery, but no joy.

Questions

Assuming the problem is the reduced pump output pressure, how can I measure it to make sure it's really under the minimum heater input pressure?

I am looking for solutions involving any of the following:

a DIY apparatus to measure the pump output pressure
clever ways to make measurements and physics equations to calculate the pressure
off-the-shelf measurement tools and gadgets (the cheaper the better, for occasional one-off measurements like in my case)

Are there any other possible causes for this problem?

Research

Well, I did try to ask Google this same question, but could not make any sense of the results. Maybe I'm not asking the question properly, or I'm not using the right keywords.

PS. I have converted the pressure units to PSI using ConvertTop.com - pressure.

Another solution might be to just buy and install a new pump. If that solves it, you're golden. If not, you now have a spare for when the pump does eventually die.

Obvious caution: Electricity and water. Be VERY sure of what you're doing when you make the connections and seal them up.

(I presume you've already checked the obvious -- made sure all valves are fully open, that any flexible pipes aren't kinked, and so on.)


How to deal with this mold on the window frame? I just discovered what I assume is mold on my window frame in the kitchen/living room (quite high humidty, but the window has been open a lot and our fan is going 24/7). Now, I've been told that dealing with black mold is dangerous, my landlord however looked at it and said it can easily be dealt with with bleach. After googling this I'm still not sure if I can or can't deal with this myself, some say I should get him to get someone to do it professionally, others recommend everything from bleach to special paint. What is the right way for me to deal with this?

That looks pretty bad. Don't use bleach, use a purpose-made mold killer product. I like Mold Armor, myself. Be careful with these products. They're super caustic and you could probably hurt yourself if you drink them or don't have good ventilation.


Will increasing the size of six shower head branches improve flow? I have currently 1/2 inch branches running into 6 shower jets. However, the upper jets don't get enough water deployment. Would changing the branches 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch pipe make difference?

Probably not. You'd still be limited by the bottleneck in the system which is the half-inch supply line. It depends on how it's branched, though. If you can fit a manifold such that no branch is downstream of another you might see some improvement. In that case I wouldn't use 3/4" pipe. You'd see no benefit.

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What is wrong with the toilet? The toilet fills with water when flushed, but it doesn’t go down.

Here’s some info:

-it’s been over a week. I can’t afford a plumber.

-the house is on a concrete slab. The pipes are in or under that.

-As far as I know, no foreign object was flushed. I don’t have little kids that would drop something down there and we don’t keep anything on the back of the toilet.

-the bathtub and the bathroom sink both drain. The sink drains slowly, but since they do, we don’t think it’s a main line issue.

-I think my dad broke the wax ring plunging. It leaks like a mofo now.

-I’ve used Rid-x and something that’s blue crystals and is meant to dissolve organic matter. The blue stuff primarily just leaked all over my floor, so no idea how much use that ended up being.

-I put mainline cleaner down the tub, and foaming root cleaner in the clean-out in the back yard. These don’t appear to have done anything.

-we have plunged it with a sink plunger and an accordion plunger, snaked it with a 25 foot auger, and used a kinetic water ram to 45lbs. I was afraid to use more pressure.

-we have emptied it out and poured a bucket of water in the bowl. It doesn’t drain like that.

-the tank doesn’t fill as much as it seems like it should, but the toilet still doesn’t flush with water added up to the fill line.

-I am about to lose my marbles.

Any ideas or solutions? Please. Thanks!

I'm not a plumber; but, have a lot of life experiences. 1st - the "Dad" issue. We mean well; but, sometimes stuff just happens, If the toilet wasn't blocked before you think your dad broke the wax ring, there's a good chance it fell into the sewer line and that's your problem. If it was blocked before that then there's a good chance the sewer line collapsed under the concrete. My brother who lives in Florida has a home on a slab and had an identical problem. Unfortunately, it was an expensive fix.
Either way, your first step would be to remove the toilet and check the wax issue. It's an easy job - shut off main water supply (either in the garage or possibly against an outside wall), drain supply line (possibly at water heater), disconnect supply to toilet, remove 2 bolts securing toilet to floor, and lift toilet up and out of the way.
At this point you can check to see if wax ring is blocking drain, if not and you have necessary skills, rent a drain auger and attempt to clear drain, if not, call a professional plumber to assess problem and suggest remedies.
Good luck and stay safe.