Pouring self-leveling cement to a given depth I am renovating a bathroom and installing radiant heat under a tile floor. The subfloor and cement backer board were installed without considering the finished height of the floor. What is a good way to ensure that the self-leveling cement is thick enough, but not too thick?

The floor is a long, narrow room, 5' × 12'. The heating mat covers 22.5 sq ft in the middle with unheated areas along all 4 walls. Per the mfg, Thermosoft, I have stapled the mat to the backer board over a plywood sub floor. Next I plan to embed the mat in a layer of self-leveling cement prior to laying 1-inch square tiles using thin-set. The height difference from the backer board to the adjacent hardwood floor is 9/16". Mat is 1/8". Tile 1/4". How do I make sure that my self-leveling cement is a consistent depth for the entire length of the room?

I am thinking using nuts that are the correct height and securing them in place every 18 inches with a recessed screw. When I pour the cement, I can let it come up level with the top of the nut. It won't matter if it's visible since the tile will cover this surface. Will this work?

Self leveling cement is not used to raise the whole floor up to where you want it, it is for filling low spots or slopes to make the floor  FLAT.

Take up the cement board, If it was not put down with some Thinset or adhesive, and put down the appropriate thickness of plywood so that when you put the cement board back down you have you floor at the proper height. ( OR ad a new layer of cement board to get your height.)

Fill the low spot on the sub-floor before you put your cement board back down.

Save your nuts !


My house breaker box have only breakers which seat only 1 wire. No seat for a load neutral. Can I still install a GFCI Breaker? My house breaker box have only breakers which seat only 1 wire.  No seat for a load neutral. Literally one screw on the breaker. There are neutrals on the bar and everything works no problem.  I want to protect my circuits with GFCI breakers but they have 2 seats, 1 for the load hot and one for the load neutral, but my box has no load neutrals going into the breakers.  Can someone tell me if I can just plug the hot into a GFCI breaker and plug the pig-tail into the bar, and leave the neutral seat on the GFCI breaker empty?  And if so, will I still get GFCI protection in this way?

Lastly, why were boxes/homes wired this way?  What are the advantages and disadvantages to this type of box? (where every breaker has just a seat for hot and there's no neutrals running around and the only neutrals seem to go directly into the bar?)

For "reasons", the US electrical system normally only has breakers on hot and not neutral. That is why hot goes to breakers while neutral goes to a bar. That is also one of the reasons keeping neutrals matching their hot wires is so important - an overloaded mismatched neutral won't trip a breaker.

GFCI breakers need to monitor neutral in order to detect ground faults. That is why GFCI breakers have a neutral connection as well as the traditional hot connection. If you don't connect the neutral to a GFCI breaker then even a small load will register as a ground fault. The result is that when you install a GFCI breaker to replace a regular breaker you move the neutral wire from the bar to the breaker, resulting in the configuration you've seen elsewhere but not (yet) in your panel.

Most breakers will have a one-to-one match between hot and neutral - i.e., one white (or gray, but far more commonly white) neutral wire for each colored (most commonly black, but can be red or blue or any other color except green, white or gray) hot wire. However, there are some legitimate exceptions:

MultiWire Branch Circuits (MWBC) - These will have two hots and one neutral. The two hots need to be on opposite legs (i.e., the voltage from hot to hot will be ~ 240V while the voltage from each hot to neutral will be ~ 120V) and breakered so that they are turned On/Off together. An MWBC provides two 120V circuits that share a neutral.
240V circuits with Neutral - These will have two hots and one neutral, similar to MWBC. These are used typically for ovens & dryers which need 120V power for controls/lights and 240V for heat.
240V circuits without Neutral - These will have two hots and no neutral. These are used typically for water heaters and similar large loads that need lots of power but don't have any 120V components.

The end result is that the number of neutral wires will typically be a little lower than the number of hot wires.

In a main panel (but not a subpanel) you can also legitimately have ground wires (green or bare) connected to the neutral bar. It is debatable whether that is "good" or not, but it is legal as the ground & neutral are bonded together in the main panel.

Finding the matching neutral for each hot can be tricky. With cables it is usually not too hard as everything in a single cable has to be part of the same circuit. But with conduit it can get tricky as multiple circuits can share a single conduit.


Is it possible to demagnetize side cutters with this passive magnetize/demagnetizer? I keep little neodymium magnets on my precision screwdrivers and I inadvertently touched them to my side cutters which are now weakly magnetized.

I only have a passive magnetize/demagnetize block which I use on screwdrivers but I can't seem to make it work on the side cutters, maybe because of its shape.

Is it possibly to demagnetize my side cutters this way or do I need to buy a degausser?

I'm using these to trim the leads off of electronic components. Because tiny pieces can get stuck to the jaws, subsequent trimmings cut at an odd angle can cause a rogue piece to jettison in a random direction. After every trim I have to swipe my fingers along the edges to brush them away but I'm not always successful and it can also leave a shallow slice if I'm not careful.

Use a soldering gun - while it's on, put the side-cutter next to the tip or the transformer and slowly move it away. You should feel the cutter vibrate slightly from the powerful alternating magnetic field, which works as well as a tape demagnetizer.


Safe & chemical free way to clean AC coils? My ac system last had regular maintenance/inspection 9 months ago. Normally I have it done every 6 months but due to coronavirus the company I have a warranty with isn't honoring their warranty.  And now my electrical usage is about 2x what it should be (according to the power company comparing my usage to my neighbors) and I think the AC is why. I'm located in Florida where it's usually 90+ degrees almost every day. I did an experiment where I covered the sun facing windows in my home and the electrical usage went down by half.
My concern with cleaning the coils is I was told by a tech to never use any chemicals in the AC, not even bleach. Most techs in the past told me you can use bleach or vinegar but this guy told me not to listen to them because any chemicals can damage the coil.
I suppose it's possible that the tech is both right and wrong. Maybe chemicals are always bad but you have to use them to clean the thing?
Can I just toss a lot of boiling water on it and let the gunk go down the condensation drain? I know how to clean a clogged drain line but are there any problems with using boiling water? Or do you have other suggestions?

Never say never or always because that will always get you in trouble.
Vinegar is an acid--it will eat the galvanized off the drip pan and can attack the fins so vinegar or acid-based cleaners are bad.
I don’t like bleach because it stinks and if not completely rinsed will have your house smelling like a swimming pool for days.
No boiling water the thermal shock can crack fittings.
Now that we talked about what you can’t or shouldn’t do... There are special chemical cleaners made for coils I use a foaming cleaner made by NU-Calgon called NU-brite. You will find coil cleaners at the big box stores made for coils these also clean the dust and grime out of the coil& fins.
Mild dishwashing soap can be used with water but getting all the soap out can be the fun part there.
Never use a pressure washer on a coil or the fins can be permanently damaged. Same with compressed air. A gentle wash with a hose on the outside unit may be the best bet if you do not have the proper chemicals.
Simple green and water sprayed in with a pump sprayer similar to what you use for killing weeds (never use a sprayer that has been used with weed killer on the inside unit).
I have tried many things and found the best option is commercial cleaner. My 2nd choice simple green and water followed with a good clear water rinse.
Yes I have HVAC licenses and your advice is mostly good not to use chemicals that will react poorly with aluminum, or galvanized materials. I usually power down the system to clean them this allows the chemicals we do use to do there job breaking down tree sap, dust, oil dog/cat pee (on outside units) that will damage the fins also. Once I treat the coil I flush it with clear water sometimes a 2nd treatment is needed but not usually on a well maintained system as yours has been.
I use 2 different sprayers on inside units one for the chemical and one with clear water. Making sure the drain stays clear and doesn’t overflow the pan.
This should help return your system to peak performance. And don’t forget about your filter. Always a good time to change the filter after a coil clean.


An idea to mix deflection rated I Joists? I'm making some hypothetical blueprint ideas and started thinking about the various floor joist options.  In our neck of the woods, I-Joists are by far most common with floor truss systems becoming more common on only higher end ($$$) homes.  I do like them, but they are typically 2.5x the cost of a traditional I-Joist (after delivery fees).  I can typically pour a 9' basement cheaper and use regular I-Joists than I can go with an 8' basement and use floor truss systems to make up for the missing height and keep everything above the bottom chord of the floor truss.  So it doesn't seem like an economical option.

I was thinking about how people are now tiling directly over their OSB subfloor, or sometimes they will tile over 1/4" underlayment, or something like 1/4" densshield type material.  I can only assume this is possible with an L/600 rated floor joist.

One thing I don't like about tiling is trying to meet the deflection ratings with plywood or thicker tileboard.  Would it be possible to simply order two different types of I-Joists and mix them, or would you notice the moment you step onto the lesser quality floor joist part of the home?

Example: L/600 I-Joist under the kitchen and dining area that has tile, and then L/360 I-Joists under the rest of the home that is laminate or carpet.

I doubt you’d notice the difference in deflection walking from L/360 to L/600.

When we design floor systems, we use the “critical span” to size the joists. That is to say, spans (from bearing wall to bearing wall) are seldom identical. So, we size the joists for the critical span and then use the same size joists throughout (so the floor sheathing is at the same height). The shorter spans will have a “stiffer” system, but it’s not noticeable.

If you’ve ever walked across a “stiff” floor system and then a “spongy” floor system, it’s noticeable. But if you walk across a stiff floor system and a “really stiff” floor system, it’s not noticeable.

So, if you mix the grade of the I-Joists, I doubt you’d notice by walking from one to another. However, if the joists are not “stiff” enough, (L/600) the tile will crack, of course.

An alternative to mixing grades, is to mix spacings of the I-Joists. I do not like joists spaced further than 16” o.c. for FLOOR systems. Perhaps you could space the joists at 12” o.c. for tile and 16” o.c. for wood and carpet areas.

BTW, the main reason we use L/360 is to keep the gypsum board ceilings below from cracking. Anything less, (i.e.: L/240, etc.) you’re asking for trouble...it will crack the plaster ceiling when fully loaded....(when you have your birthday party and everyone is in the same room.)

Also, we add 1 or 2 floor joists under the refrigerator and the freezer...making the spacing 8” o.c.

(Also, we try to determine if the client will have waterbeds.)


Should I use pigtails for pass-through split outlet connections? I have some outlets that are set up in a split circuit (separate lines for top and bottom).  I was going to replace the outlet to update it to a more modern looking one and found that there are 4 power lines coming in.  Power in and out and for each circuit (so 4 total black wires and 4 total white wires).  It is currently using both the screw and push-in method.

Is this proper wiring?  I've never seen both the screws and push-ins used.  It's also very tight in the box.  Is there a better way to handle this?  It seems like pigtails would be better but I feel there isn't enough space.

Pigtail , pigtail , pigtail, and hook up your new receptacle. The back stab (the push in connection is the largest failure point of any wiring method I have ever heard of but “safe” because when they fail they are inside a box.  Hook your 3 blacks and a short section of wire together with a wire nut then this shorter wire to the gold screw. Do the same with the white wires and connect the short white to the silver screw and you have eliminated the major possibility of a failure if someone plugs a space heater, or hair dryer with a few other devices going also down stream. Is it legal yes it will pass inspection in many jurisdictions but not all. Is it safe , according to the national electric code, but I have seen smoke damage many times and even plastic box meltdowns but no major fires. But those push in connectors are a major failure point. I like back & side receptacles they can connect up to 4 wires each side but cost a couple of $ more. So pigtail with a wire nuts or get back and side outlets. I’d your boxes are shallow spending a bit more on the receptacle is the only way to go and they last longer as they are a higher grade.


How is this junction box intended to be used? I am in Europe and recently purchase this junction box:

I have two questions:

What is the intended use of the two brass colored busbars versus the three steel colored busbars?
What is the intended use of the straight busbar in the middle versus those curved busbars on the periphery?

neutral and ground vs three phases.
ground

Note the "N" and ground-symbol moulded on the plastic base.


Soft crumbling walls, electrical mounting box I wonder if anyone can help.
 I'm having my kitchen refurbished including the electrics but when my partner tried to insert and secure the mounting boxes into the wall the plaster around it has crumbled away. There is now not enough plaster remaining to secure the mounting boxes in place. All the trunking and wires are in place now but we just have this one mounting box that we can't secure.
Is there a way to fix this issue?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you

At this point, I don't think an old-work box can be used. As bib mentions, you need a sturdy surface to attach these. You also have a plaster repair in your future, so if you're going to patch that, you may as well go with a new-work box. You have two styles to chose from, one with a tab that attaches to the face of the stud and another that nails into the stud:

I'd recommend the version that nails into the side of the stud, but I'd also recommend swapping out the nails for screws. The process of nailing this box in will disturb a lot more of the plaster.

Go ahead and open the wall up enough to install the new-work box, get the cables inside, screw it to the stud, and secure the wiring with staples to the center of the stud. Then patch your plaster by installing some backing material, applying the plaster with a wide knife, and smoothing the joints so they can't be seen with a light shining at a sharp angle.


What happens if I use the DC Voltage setting on an AC line? What about the reverse? I have a run of those low voltage lighting systems in the hallway. The kind that have a two parallel exposed wires, with fixtures that clamp on in various spots on the wires and then take an MR16 bulb.

I am curious what the voltage is across these lines, but  I didn't install these, so I don't know if the transformer is outputting 12VDC or AC. I can't easily get to the transformer.

My multimeter has a single set of holes for voltage readings, then I select either VDC or VAC on the dial. What happens if I get this wrong? Is it dangerous? Assume the multimeter is rated for more voltage than I am going to find in this situation.

As long as the meter's voltage range is initially set to at least the highest that can be there, you won't damage the meter, especially if you make just a momentary initial connection to see what the meter does.  What happens with the readings will depend in part on the type of meter, whether it auto-senses polarity, whether it is auto-ranging, and whether it has a digital display.

For example, a mechanical meter with a needle and scale will "peg" the needle below zero if the meter is set to DC, and you measure a DC voltage with the polarity reversed.  It will peg the needle at the end of the scale if the voltage is higher than the setting, either AC or DC with the correct polarity.

With a digital meter that auto-senses polarity, you will get a negative accurate reading if you have a DC setting and measure DC with the polarity reversed.  It will show zero or an error if the polarity is reversed and it isn't auto-sensing.

AC will display as zero voltage on a DC setting, regardless of the polarity.  Reversing the leads and still reading zero will distinguish this from DC with reversed polarity if the meter displays zero for reversed polarity DC.

Measuring DC on an AC setting will depend on the meter.  The meter rectifies AC to turn it into DC for a reading.  DC with polarity in reverse of the rectifier will read zero.  Reversing the leads should give you a reading, but it is likely to be inaccurate because the meter is scaled for the rectified voltage.

The combination of AC/DC settings and polarity reversal should allow you to figure out whether the source is DC or AC.


AC Combiner Box for Solar Project I've been searching online for a NEMA 3R enclosure to act as a combiner for two 40 Amp, 240v circuits coming out of two solar inverters.  Total combined amperage is 80 Amps.  The AHJ is going to be inspecting this box to make sure that there is no way to take any power off this box prior to the power meter socket, so I have been looking for an enclosure that can accept the two inputs (6 wires) with a single 80A, 240V ouput.  I already have a 3 wire visual disconnect device  (VDD) Square D DU323RB.  While my AHJ appears to allow the VDD to act as a combiner, the VDD I bought doesn't have the capability to act as a combiner.  In essence, I'm asking for help with my Google search to find this elusive box.  I think this might work, but I'm not sure:
https://www.zoro.com/square-d-load-center-lug-125a-120240vac-1ph-qo112l125g/i/G0578426/

In my plan, the AHJ and Utility made me specify:
COMBINER BOX 80 AMP, 240V DG LOAD CENTER SIZED FOR DG BREAKERS ONLY OR RENDERED UNABLE TO ACCEPT ADDITIONAL LOADS

Splice it together in the safety switch

While Square D does not make a double-lug kit for their general-duty safety switches, what you can do is use a 14-4AWG, 3-port, insulated mechanical connector per-phase to splice the two incoming wires together with a short pigtail of 4AWG insulated copper that runs off to the lug on the switch for that phase.  That way, everything's tucked neatly inside the disconnect enclosure; this does have the downside that you can't independently disconnect individual inverters from the utility service, but for a purely grid-tied small-scale solar setup, this isn't a big deal.


Will a 15 amp circuit support the lighting I plan to install? I am in the middle of a basement finishing project and have a question.

I have three circuits for my basement, 2 15 amp and 1 20 amp. I'd like to use one 15 amp for all lights, one 15 amp for eight outlets in the finished part, and one 20 amp for outlets in the shop. For the lights, I came up with the following based on research.

One 15 amp circuit can support 1800 watts, after reading a little, electricians plan for 80% load, so 1440 watts. The new energy efficient lights out there are only 14 watts so I could have up to 102 lights? Way more than I'd need down there.

Are there any issues with this plan? Any code concerns? Thanks.

It looks like you have spent some time and research working on this, well done. We calculate general purpose outlet for dwelling units at 180 W/VA or 1.5A per duplex receptacle. If you have an NEC handbook illustration 220.4 is a great example.

The lighting is a bit of guess work and since we already know the outlets it would be safe to use 1.5 W/VA per square foot of living area to determine the load. Understand that the NEC isn't interested in what you are installing, it's interested in what may be installed by whomever at a later date.

That being said. I don't really see a problem with your thinking, but I do have one question. Are any of these receptacles being used for a specific duty such as a refrigerator or microwave or such. If so they must be calculated at the nameplate rating rather than the general purpose 180W.

My final thought is why not just run all 20 amp circuits and that would insure you for expansion or if you missed something. We call it Value Added Resource. For minimal cost it may pay off in the end.


Unable to seat Eaton CH breakers side-by-side in my Eaton CH panel This is probably an embarrassing newbie mistake, but I've really been scratching my head over this. I have an Eaton subpanel that states it accepts Eaton type CH, CHT, or CH3 branch breakers. However, when I try to seat two CH breakers side by side, the breaker on one side unseats the breaker on the other. They don't both seem to fit. I've temporarily gotten around this by installing breakers only on one side of the panel, but I would love to know what the problem is and also make sure I am using compatible breakers.
I'm having the issue with regular Eaton CH breakers and also Eaton CH AFCI/GFCI combination breakers (not the plug-on-neutral kind).
Here are images of the subpanel label, inside the subpanel, and also a gif of me trying to seat the breakers side by side:

Thanks in advance for any help!

Try snapping them both in at the same time. I have the same breakers with a Cutler Hammer panel and the breakers need to be seated correctly on the back bar before they will snap into place..


Life span of an average flexible water hose What is the life span of an average flexible water hose? Thank you

The life time depends on various factors and so it is not possible to give a definitive answer.

If the considerations are for an outdoor typical "garden hose" then here are some factors that will affect hose life:

How long the hose lays out in the direct sunlight.
Temperature of the environment where the hose is stored.
How many times the hose is driven across.
Number of times the hose is uncoiled and coiled back up.
Amount of time the hose is left under pressure with the nozzle at the end closed.
Material the hose is made of.
Thickness of the hose walls.
Diameter of the hose.
Whether the hose has embedded braiding.
Quality of the end fittings.
Amount of times the end fittings get stepped on or banged on concrete.
Number of squirrels or gophers that chew on the hose.
Number of times run over by the lawnmower.

If the consideration is for a hose used indoors such as in a shower or hand held shower head at a sink there would be a different set of criteria. Here are the ones I can think of for that situation:

Water temperature through the hose.
How much the hose is flexed in normal usage.
Number of times when the hose is forcefully jerked when used as emergency
Material the hose is made of.
Thickness of the hose walls.
Diameter of the hose.
Whether the hose has embedded braiding.
Quality of the end fittings and types of crimp strain reliefs there are near the end fittings.


Ceiling Fan Not Spinning Normally, Replaced Capacitor Already We've had this house since late June, and the house was renovated. I am not sure if the ceiling fan in question was brand new or simply recently new. It is a Harbor Breeze, Model RLG52NWZ5C3L.

Regardless, we came into our master bedroom one night to see it slowly spinning down to a crawl. Based off of Google searched articles, Reddit posts, and DIY Stackexchange, my first step was to try and replace the capacitor... After waiting a week for the part, it did not fix it.

Yes, it hums, but I've heard louder humming from older (working) ceiling fans. I am not sure if newer ceiling fans simply are not as loud hummers as they used to be.
You can kind of see it start to snail-crawl when you first turn it on.
No, it does not stay spinning if I give it a spin, but
Yes, it does seemingly freely spin with no obstructions when off.
Yes, the light works. It has a separate light switch.
Update 1: Voltage from black wire in ceiling measures 118 VAC

I have also tried checking/resecuring all the connected wires that comes downward into the light assembly to ensure they were all actually connected, so I didn't check the wires in the ceiling. I have not voltmeter tested anything. Neither spin direction as expected.

So, at this point, I am at a loss. I don't know if this ceiling fan has a flywheel or not, or how to tell if it does. I don't know what the 2nd black box is, that is around the same size as the capacitor.. but it has 3 wires, one of which being for the light I believe. I am open to suggestions, but I understand if it is not worth fixing anymore past the capacitor.

Update 2: This is the "other box" similar in size to the capacitor. While the manual doesn't mention it, it was stuck to the top of the switch housing area.

Update 3: In the pic, I noticed it said E313648, which IS a wattage limiter. From what I understand, that is to regulate the wattage that goes to the light sockets. Can this affect the fan motor too?

Update 4(Final Update): The motor is shot.

Looking at the manual for that fan, there is no "extra box" shown, but it does mention that

"This fan is remote control adaptable (remote control not included). Please refer to instructions provided with the remote control before proceeding with these wiring instructions."

So my guess is that your extra box is the remote control option, and the previous owner lost the remote, with the fan stuck on "Low". I would remove it and wire it as it should be without a remote.

Another thing to try is the Fwd / Rev switch. it may be old and/or dirty, try flipping it back and forth a few times.


Used 12/2WG NMB wire for internal recessed LED lights, is that bad? I had some 12/2WG NMB wire left over and decided to use it rather than buying some 14/2 in order to wire some indoor recessed internal LED lights.

Other than the fact that it was a pain to work with, is it bad to use a wider wire than required?

Unfortunately, I'm only thinking about it now after the fact, I think I should be OK, but I am super paranoid about electrical.

Putting 12/2 on a 15A circuit is no big deal -- the only problems with using a bigger wire than required by ampacity are the physical difficulty of working with it, and the potential for overstuffing boxes.  (If it's too big to fit the terminals on your devices, that's no sweat -- just wire-nut or Wago on some pigtails of the fattest wire the device can take.)

In fact, sometimes putting bigger wire on a long circuit is practically required (it's merely a recommendation in the NEC, but some sensitive equipment hates brownouts....) to keep the voltage drop from becoming excessive. (NEC recommends 5% max over the whole circuit -- it's usually kept to under 3% to allow for extension cords and whatnot.)


led bulbs flash when turned on I have a lamp designed for 6 12v g4 bulbs. I replaced all the bulbs with LED bulbs and the lamp only flashes on when I flip the switch. I replaced one of the LED bulbs with a halogen g4 and the entire lamp now works fine. The lamp is on an ordinary switch. What is happening? I would like to be able to use LED bulbs in all 6 positions. Thanks in advance.

The transformer that steps the voltage down from 120V to 12V is probably electronic and requires a minimum load to work.

Unfortunately there isn't an easy fix for this as the electronic transformer is probably part of the fixture assembly or small enough to fit into the box the fixture attaches too, and replacing it with a magnetic transformer is just unrealistic due to the size requirements of a magnetic transformer.


Complete Waterproof Service Panel AWG 1 Splice We need to splice or extend existing AWG 1 main service panel wires and the splice would be left open to rain. What kind of connectors that would create watertight waterproof splice?

I have this (but putting tape all over it would not create waterproof splice because water can leak in:

I'd use a Burndy UGSKIT250

For this sort of outdoor/exposed-splice application (as you would find when splicing a triplex or quadruplex overhead feeder or service cable to riser wires in a mast), I would use a Burndy UGSKIT250 for the individual wire splices.  This kit consists of a bare (uninsulated) mechnical splice suitable for 1AWG-250kcmil wire, either copper or aluminum, and a length of heavy wall heat shrink tubing to be shrunk over the top of the splice for waterproofing.  It is UL listed for use outdoors (and even in direct burial applications), and does not require any sort of junction box.


Two 14/2 source cables connect to one 12/3 cable I have an old house - somebody (licensed electrician? I can’t be sure) did some electrical updating. What I have is four 14/2 circuits, each on a single pole 20amp breaker (none handle barred together). The source cables all come to a junction box where a pair of cables is spliced to essentially a 12/3 cable (but it’s actually THHN because it exits the junction box via surface mount conduit). This is done twice since there are four source cables. These are all general bedroom lighting/receptacle circuits.
My concern is that the neutral is shared once the 14/2 cables splice to the 12/3.
I’m a DIY’er with limited electrical background. Is this configuration a problem?
Sketch of the wiring:
The junction box is on a second floor apartment. Panel is in the basement. I would estimate 40-50 foot run. Everything to the right of the junction box is through surface mount conduit (except the 12/2 cable which is a short section through a wall).

This wiring is easier to fix than you think
Since the culprit run of wire was done using THHN in conduit instead of a cable such as NM or AC (BX), this is actually quite readily fixable.  Simply grab a suitable length of 12AWG grey or red/white striped THHN wire, run it through the conduit (this may require removing the existing wires and repulling them), and move the 2nd circuit's neutral over to the new wire at both ends.
(P.S. you only need one new wire as it's legal to have any number of circuits share a single grounding wire; in fact, if your conduit was made of metal, it would be a legal grounding conductor.)
Replace the 20A breakers with 15A ones
Since your circuits have 14 AWG wiring in them, you need to use 15A breakers.  You can only put a 20A breaker on a general receptacle circuit if every piece of wiring on it is 12 AWG or larger.


Issue replacing a regular 3 way switch with smart one that requires neutral This is what my downstairs 3 way switch looks like:

The new smart switch requires a neutral, but it appears that the white wire is the hot wire, I checked with a non-touch voltage tester and it is, in fact, hot. There is nothing else tucked inside the switch box, so am I basically missing the neutral wire?

The upstairs switch box does contain the neutral wires, but none of the cables have voltage unless I flip the switch downstairs.

Is my assumption that the hot (downstairs) box is missing the neutral line? The house was built in 2005, I thought newer houses had neutrals by code.

Just 2 feet up is the thermostat which I believe does contain a neutral since it has power, would be it okay to somehow piggy back off that neutral?

Yes, that box is missing the neutral.

The National Electrical Code did not add that requirement until 2011.

Smart switches require a source of constant power to work. Therefore, they trickle a small amount of current on the neutral while they are working. They used to trickle this current on the equipment ground which was decided to be unsafe by the code making community. However, these older style switches that do not require a neutral are still available and can be installed in your situation.

Return the switch you have and look for a "no-neutral required" type of switch. Depending on how "smart" you want your switch to be, you can find occupancy / vacancy style switches that do not need a neutral and use the equipment ground instead. Similar to this one.

Harper is correct in his observation that thermostats use a low voltage system that is powered by the HVAC system through a transformer. You cannot get a neutral here.

Good luck and stay safe!


Building a dock ramp for a dog I have the week off for the fourth and I'm in a beginner DIY mood.  At my lake house, we have a floating dock which is too high above the water to easily pull the dog out and he can't get out by going to shore because it is covered with riprap and overgrowth.

Here's my plan so far.  I'm thinking to use this plywood. with two 5" door hinges at each corner.  I believe hot dip galavanized screws are what I need to use.  For buoyancy, I will drill two holes towards the end on both sides and tie a boat fender on each side. I have a drill but I will need (I think) a spade bit to drill holes big enough for rope.  I already have some polyurethane that I will seal the wood with.

Any suggestions or comments?

I know this is not ideal and it's not going to last forever but it's mainly an excuse for me buy some power tools and start learning.

Your idea may work in the short term, but over time the waves will rip that apart. The other thing is that plywood in water won't last long either, even marine treated plywood is not designed to be submerged.

Here is what I did on our dock and above ground pool to allow our dog access.

Be sure to use pressure treated wood. The step allows the dog to swim up, get his front paws on for grip and then pull himself up out of the water.

It will take a little training but nothing a few treats for motivation cant fix.

Adjust the step for the size of dog you have, the smaller the higher you place the step


Considering portable a/c vs our old Central Air, from 1992, in 2 story, 2300 square foot house, High Desert I'm in the high desert of Southern California. We're in a 2300 sq foot home, 2 stories with 3 bedrooms and 1 master bedroom on second story. The house is cooled by 2 central air systems, manufactured in 1990. The second story is cooled a Rheem Classic X Rahe-030jas, with the tag in the picture below. Supposedly its 208/230 Volts, 18 Amp single phase. Google says its SEER rating is 10. I'm thinking of putting Honeywell a portable mn10cesww, 10000 BTU (ASHRAE-128 Standard) / 5500 BTU (DOE+ 2017 Standard), in the master bedroom, and two bedrooms, and not running the central air at all this summer. I care only about cooling those 3 rooms. Plus I already have a small window unit in the a 4th bedroom/office, that's rarely used. The central a/c also cools the hallway and bathroom on the second story.

Will running the portables in each room at night be more efficient than running the older central air at night, especially considering that they won't be running when nobody is in the room?

Also as far as the first story goes, we never run the central air. We only cool it with a 14000 BTU portable unit.

I can't provide product specs, but can share that when my central AC died last summer in a heat wave I bought a couple of very small (I could lift and install by myself) window units.  $tressed about fixing central - until my electric bill came in at a fraction.
Similar, only need to cool a couple rooms to be comfortable


Timer for house ventilation switch - high/low voltage wiring I have a home ventilation switch that I would like to wire a timer to. This switch is located in my upstairs hallway, and when flipped it turns on the furnace fan blower and the main bathroom exhaust fan. However, when I look in the junction box, it's unlike anything I've ever seen.

The switch has four terminals (plus ground), with a standard high voltage wire connected to one side, and a pair of low voltage wires connected to the other side. While I can't trace it through the wall, there is a similar red-sleeved low-voltage wire connected to the control panel on my furnace blower, which I assume is the other end of this wire. However, I have a number of questions:

1) How can there be both high and low voltage wires connected to the same switch? Is there such thing as a switch with a built-in transformer?

2) How/why would the white/neutral wire be connected to the switch? Is this how you terminate a neutral wire when the load device doesn't have a neutral?

3) If the low voltage wire is connected to my furnace fan blower, how is power getting to the bathroom exhaust fan?

Any insight here would be greatly appreciated.

This looks like a standard double pole switch.

Essentially, it is two independent switches both controlled by a single toggle. The two sides of switches are not connected to each other.

In your box, it looks like you have two separate switch loops, one going to each side of the switch. The cable on the left is supplying a hot lead an a return switched hot (probably to the 120V bathroom fan). The white wire is not a neutral, it is being used as a hot. Code requires that the white be marked with black tape or a marker to show it is hot.

The right cable (probably 24V furnace) uses red and black for the hot and the switched hot. This is standard color code. It seems that the right wire (lighter gauge) is the low voltage circuit.

The specific questions:

There is no transformer in the switch. The low voltage is provided by a transformer elsewhere, probably near the furnace.
There does not appear to be any neutral wire in this box. While that does not conform to current code, up until recently it was common to run a switch loop with only hot wires, using the white wire (properly marked) as a hot. Current code requires running a true neutral to each switch box (with a few exceptions), even if it is not currently needed.
It is likely that power is provided directly to the box that the fan is connected to, but the hot line is not connected directly to the fan, it is connected to one of the wires running to this switch and then back to the fan on the other wire from this switch box.

While this setup works, I am not sure if current code allows a high and low voltage switch combination, or even high and low in the same box without a barrier between the sides. (NEC 725.136(B))

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


What should I use as backing for mosaic accent tiles that are a different thickness than the main field tiles? I noticed, too late (during install), that the mosaic tile my wife chose for accent in our shower is a different depth than the regular tile we're using.  The mosaic tiles are about 1/8-3/16" thinner than the other tiles. I tried using a piece of backer board, but that made the mosaic tiles push past the regular tiles.  I wound up trying to build up using thicker glass mortar, but that resulted in less-than-perfect mosaic...so I need to rip this out.

My question is...how should I build this up so I don't need to make a thick mortar base for the mosaic? Should I built it up slowly with layers of mortar?  Is there some thinner material I can use to build this up in this (wet) environment?

If the mosaic accent tiles are thinner than the field tiles, I think building up extra thinset behind the accent tiles and carefully pushing them into it so they are flush with the surrounding field tiles is a decent approach.

If the mosaic accent tiles are thicker... I don't have a good solution for that.  That is the situation I had in my shower and I just have a bit of a lip that is grouted.  The transition is not too bad.

How different are the tile thickness'?


How to attach a new sill to an existing concrete foundation I have a foundation of block wall. To get it to the correct height I need to put 4" solid block top cap on it and my sill plate on top of the 4" solid top cap. I can fill in the voids in the block wall where I'm going to need to bolt it down with cement.

My question is how best to secure the walls. If I bury a J bolt in there I'll have to drill a hole through the 4" solid top course that won't be serving any purpose for securing the walls so it's just a bolt going through a hole. I can't even seem to find a bolt long enough that would bury the J bolt in the cement under the 4" solid block in the cement filled blocked wall more than a few inches.

I'm thinking I'd fill in the block wall with cement where  I need to anchor the walls and then go in from the top and put in a 1/2" x 6" tapcon (or longer if I can find it like 10") or something so that it uses the 4" solid block and a bit of the cement underneath for grip. Can't tell if this meets code or is even a good idea though.

The anchor bolts need to go well into the block, preferably at least 8" in. You should place the anchor bolts in the head joints of the 4" solid run.  No need to drill holes in the solid block. Worst case cut the solid block where you need to and set the bolt in the joint created in cut block. They should coincide in a hollow place in the rows of block below often enough to work in a bolt about every 4' maybe slightly more if need be depending on your seismic area. Masonry supply houses carry anchor bolts 16" or 24" long. In my opinion, you should use a minimum of 16", again, depending on your seismic area. There are other types of clips that will do the same as a anchor bolt.


How should I install a door that is not pre-hung and has a custom jamb? I have an antique restored interior door with a transom for which I have to make my own jamb due to the height of the side jambs (big boxes sell only 80" door jambs).  Should I

A) assemble the jamb and hang the door on it outside the rough opening before fitting it in (basically pre-hang it myself) or

B) assemble the pieces of jamb inside the rough opening?

I am inclined to think A because how else do I know how much shimming I will need.  However, one problem I see with that is how to assemble 1x planks of the jamb at right angles around the door and set the hinges in correct spots.  It seems like I would need a firm frame to support the composition.

I like B, because the most critical jamb is the hinge side.  Once its plumb, with shims behind the hinges, I rout the hinges in place with templates.

The other 2 jambs are "loose" until the door is hung.  Then, with a helper, the gap around the latch side is dialed in, starting at the latch.

The top jamb is done last and isn't as critical, structurally, as the other 2.


What is an acceptable gap between the siding and the wall sheathing? Background

My home has vinyl siding installed over the original Masonite/hardboard siding. The vinyl siding wasn't installed correctly (don't caulk your J-channel, folks, or the nailing flange becomes the weep holes - into your home!) and it led to some massive rot around the foundation of my house. I wound up reframing the bottom half of my house it was so bad.

During that time, I had to remove the windows (because the framing around the windows had rotted away) and needed to reinstall them. However, the rot was only on the bottom portion of the house. I didn't need to remove any more siding than the bottom 6 feet. However, I needed to remove ALL of the siding, including the Masonite siding, to get at the sheathing and studs, and all of the Masonite siding was rotted, too.

After removing the Masonite siding, I was left with a problem. The new windows had a built-in channel for the vinyl siding, but if they were installed flush to the sheathing then the vinyl siding wouldn't terminate correctly because the rest of the Masonite siding had built it out too far. I could have removed the Masonite siding from the entire house (this is really what I should have done), but the entire process was exhausting and I didn't really have the time to re-side the whole house, so I used some pressure-treated material to build the wall out an inch:

My concern with just leaving the Masonite off was that it was still on the upper 10 feet of the house, and it'd cause the vinyl siding to "suck in" along the bottom 6 feet. I used the pressure treated material to build out around the windows, but I used rigid foam insulation to build out the bulk of the exterior wall, after wrapping the sheathing with Tyvek.

Now I'm to the point that I'm ready to (have time and money to) replace the vinyl siding, but I'm stuck with the decision I made previously - I could pull all of the windows, remove the P/T lumber, and re-install them, but it's too costly at this point to do that.

My major concern is with rot or water damage between the rigid foam insulation and the house - I just don't see how the wall section would ever dry if (when, it's always when) water manages to get behind the rigid insulation.

Question

I was wondering if it could be possible to strip the Masonite siding off, install pressure treated furring strips, and install the siding attached to the furring. I had originally dismissed this idea because I was worried wind would get behind the siding and rattle it, but then I saw this ProTradeCraft video where they're installing 1x3 furring strips with the intent of standing the siding off.

I used 5/4 pressure-treated decking when I built the windows out, so it's actually a 1 inch thickness, putting me about 0.25" further away from the wall than the ProTradeCraft video. Would this be okay to do?

What is an acceptable gap between the siding and the wall sheathing?

So I've looked around online quite a bit more since asking this question, trying to see if I can find a building code or some other standard that will give a concrete answer. I didn't find a building code, but I did find some vinyl siding installation guides and, without an explicit building code statement, I would always defer to the OEM installation guides.
The Certainteed installation manual says, on document page 31,

Tips for applying wood furring
If you are working on an older home with noticeably uneven walls,
you must correct this condition before proceeding. If not corrected
during preparation, this uneven surface will produce a wavy
appearance in siding applied over it.
For best results, space horizontal furring strips 12" on center.
Do not exceed 16". To correct an uneven wall, use furring strips
(and wood shims if necessary) to eliminate low spots.
NOTE: You must apply rigid sheathing over furring.

(Emphasis original). They then go on to give the following graphic (document page 32):

This graphic specifically goes with the installation over concrete or stucco, but clearly shows a sheathing over the furring strips.
The Plygem installation manual says, on document page 17,

Step 4
Install furring in areas needing straightening and leveling. Apply rigid sheathing to  cover and level the furring strips. Do not apply vinyl siding directly to furring strips without sheathing, because the siding may conform around the furred areas causing an uneven appearance.
(See Fig 2)

And then gives Figure 2 as:

Again, clearly showing a sheathing ON TOP of the furring strips. Georgia Pacific siding seems to use the same document (warning: direct download).
The Vinyl Siding Institute's 2018 installation guide seems to be a little more ambiguous, stating on document page 18,

Make sure that any furring strips are thick enough to provide this penetration depth, or cover them with wood sheathing to provide the needed depth.

The "or" there is what makes it ambiguous to me, but the top of that page also clearly states:

A flat, level wall surface is necessary for proper installation of vinyl siding.

They also give the following graphic on document page 15:

So, ultimately, I think the decision here would be to use standard 1x3 furring strips (NOT pressure treated), such that they're dimensionally 0.75" thick, and then to face those with 0.5" foam insulation. Some reviews have said the furring strips are actually 5/8 thick, not 3/4, but it should be close enough for the siding to fit into the window trim (though I'd definitely dry fit one section before investing in a whole house's worth.)
Finally, regarding the NOT pressure treated furring strip, the general practice of installing the furring strips to create a cavity seems to be referred to as creating a rainscreen, and the author of that article makes a comment saying,

Using pressure-treated lumber is not only unnecessary -- it often requires the use of expensive stainless-steel fasteners.
Lots of researchers and ordinary builders have removed siding and inspected furring strips. The furring strips stay dry.
If a wall has rotting furring strips, something is seriously wrong with the wall design or installation. Rotting furring strips would usually be a sign of a serious flashing error.

Finally, I'll note that the article and the video I linked in the question all seem to be using furring strips without a sheathing as part of a wood siding installation. Again, all the sources I could find on vinyl siding are OEM installation guides and they're all uniform in their statement:
You must install vinyl siding on a flat surface. Attach sheathing to furring strips if you need to use furring strips.


Can property changes be made to change flood zone determination? About a year after I originally purchased my home, FEMA sent me a notice that they had updated their maps and decided I was in a flood zone and needed to pay flood insurance. I've been paying ever since.

I live in Texas. I can't really imagine a vast flood sweeping away my house and causing me to climb on the roof and wait for rescue. The nearby "creek" is bone dry unless it rains. To make things even better, if I recall from when I saw the maps, the flood zone boundary line runs through my back yard. A few of my neighbors and I are included. Homes across the street and those a few houses down the street are completely flood zone free. Certainly the nearby park opposite my back yard fence experiences some slight flooding in heavy rains, simple from water building up and taking time to run off, but that's it.

I've been looking into replacing the fence around my yard, and it occurred to me; a tight, well-made fence, or a retaining wall or something, should be able to keep out any risk of water flooding into the backyard from the park. (Again, the whole thing is ridiculous--in the past eight years, that hasn't happened, and any water high enough to reach my house would go past and spill into the street and run away). So my question is, is there anything I can do to the property that would convince FEMA to say I am no longer at risk of my house being washed away any day now in a flood? I'm aware that I can pay for a surveyor to check my elevation and MIGHT be able to challenge FEMA that way if their map lists incorrect elevation--but is there anything I can do to make the property flood proof in FEMA's eyes?

The same thing happened to us.  We hired a surveyor who specializes in contesting FEMA flood zone determinations.  He handled all of the paperwork, filed it with FEMA, and got our flood zone designation removed.


How can we get the temperature balanced in a dual zone house? We just moved into a rental home.  There is one HVAC system, but 2 thermostats.  We noticed that when we are upstairs, it sounds like the unit is running constantly.  We cant seem to get the temperature right in this house.

Is the house drafty? We had a similar issue with the first floor, the heat always turned on and off. I first replaced the old thermostats for new ones, but still no affect.
What it came down to was our old windows created a lot of drafts and the door to the outside was right next to the thermostat, so every time we opened the door to go outside and cold air entered it turned back on.

I would check the locations of the thermostats, and potential influences to cause the temperature around them to be effected.

Also try adjusting your thermostat to reflect the overall temperatures of each floor.
With our home upstairs is always 4 degrees hotter, and so if we set the 2nd floor to 65 we set the 1rst floor to 61.


Leave extra wire in conduit for future expansion Quick question that's come up when wiring a garage/workshop. I ran 3/4" conduit, and in one length I'm planning to run 3+1 10 AWG for a 240V/30A circuit, as well as 2+1 10 AWG for a 120V/20A circuit. I've intentionally oversized the 120V/20A circuit as I'd like the option of upgrading to a second 240V circuit in the future. If I ever did that, I'd obviously need an additional hot wire. I know that I could leave a pull string, but is there any issue with simply pulling an extra wire now, and leave the ends capped with wire nuts in the sub panel and a junction box?
Thanks.
EDIT for additional details:
It is EMT. And this is actually coming from a subpanel. I ran a 60A sub to my (attached) garage, and am now wiring these circuits from that sub. So it's actually a short run of wire, and leaving the extra wire is a negligible cost.

There is no problem having unused conductors, properly capped, in your circuit. Since you'll total 8 wires you're within fill capacity for 3/4" conduit (10 or 11 depending on type).
You might ask yourself whether a 60A or 100A sub-panel isn't a better strategy, though. Four aluminum wires might be cost-equivalent to the copper you're planning and you'd have many more future circuit options.


garbage disposal still works but the sink just does not drain The garbage disposal under the kitchen sink still runs, but the sink just does not drain. What can the reason, do I have to open the garbage disposal? Are there any easy ways to fix?

In my last house, any time my wife would put large amounts of lettuce or cabbage leaves or similar vegetables through the disposal the discharge drain after the disposal would plug up causing me to have to take the drain apart and remove the plugging. Using a plunger just made the plugging worse since it would only compact the stuff in the discharge piping.


Installing long 20ft metal poles in concrete around a football pitch I work at a football club and I need to install some long 20 ft metal poles into the ground set in concrete. My question is how deep must the holes be and what diameter hole needs digging. The poles are ex scaffold poles and are 3 inches in diameter. The poles are being installed to hold up netting behind the goals to stop the ball from going into adjoining fields and roads etc. Thanks for any help

The primary stress in this case will be wind. Typically you'd embed a pole at a ratio of 1:4. In your case, if the poles are 20' above ground, you'd want to be 4-5 feet down. If your poles are 20' in length (16-17' above ground), 3-4' may be adequate.

I'd probably use form tubes (or cleanly-dug holes) of a 10 or 12" nominal diameter (at least 3 time the pole diameter). You wouldn't want less than 3-4" of concrete outside the pipe to prevent breakout.


What's the best way to mark wallboard for electrical box openings? Putting up 3/4" x 8' x 4' Plywood wall covering with a receptacle behind.
What is the best way to mark it out for the cut?

Guess just to measure the horizontal and vertical in reference from the sides.

Then there's the receptacle cover plate that is larger than the box.

Any cool handyman tricks for this?

Like to cut it after securing the plywood sheet. I've cut two already and they are mis-aligned.

You have to measure really accurately with this. With drywall you might be able to go with a rough location and cut the edges while the board is held or lightly screwed into the wall, but that probably won't work with something as rigid as plywood.

The opening in the wallboard should be sized to the electrical box. Then the cover plate helps you hide any gaps. One handyman tip is that they sell extra-large cover plates to help hide sloppier cuts!

You can also buy tools designed to help mark these cuts:
https://www.amazon.com/Calculated-Industries-8105-Drywall-Electrical/dp/B00YX8KZGO/
or
https://www.amazon.com/HandyMark-Drywall-Marker-2-Pack-HM1002-BF/dp/B000V5MPZM/

One last idea if your cuts are significantly off is to replace the electrical boxes. You can get old-work boxes that attach to the wallboard (rather than structure). Just trace the outline of the box onto the wallboard and cut. I like to use an oscillating saw for this.


can you glue tile to plywood? I have a contractor who covered my bathroom with marble tile. Now tiles are cracking, grout is breaking and water leaking...

See image of a few he picked up that were making noise.

Also note he found water on the wood so now its drying.

My gut tells me this is all wrong. Can any pros weigh in on this?

You CAN bond tile directly to a plywood subfloor and expect it to last. HOWEVER, the floor must be properly reinforced to minimize flexing; the joists, if they're 2x8 (newer code) and not 2x10 (older code), must be braced every four feet with cross-braces, which minimizes independent flexing of each joist and the subfloor above. Then, in either case the subfloor should probably be about an inch thick (at least 3/4"), and if that's accomplished with more than one layer of plywood/OSB, the subfloor should be glued and screwed together such that they're as close to one piece of material as possible. If you have the vertical space for a floating underlayment like Ditra, that will further reduce grout and tile cracking by allowing the two dissimilar materials (wood and tile) to swell and shrink at their own differing rates with temperature and humidity.

I would not "glue" stone or ceramic tiles in any case; the tiles will likely not be properly supported under their entire area and WILL crack and lift. Use thinset, and since this is a bathroom I would use a waterproof membrane laid down over a first layer of thinset to protect the subfloor, as neither thinset nor grout are waterproof. A waterproof underlayment is flat-out required on the floor and up the walls in shower stalls and anywhere else you expect to have water sprayed or standing on a regular basis; the water will wick into the thinset by the gallon, and eventually contact the drywall, where it will eventually degrade and mold even water-resistant "green board".


double ball bearing vs single ball bearing ceiling fan I ordered two Havells fans from online.  I received two types with almost the same features except the following one, which is:

Double ball bearing ceiling fan
Single ball bearing calling fan

I am confused now, which one is better? Which is newest? Which one I need to return?

A double bearing fan will have a longer life than a single bearing fan. The double bearing fan will have a bearing supporting the motor and fan shaft in two locations, rather than one.

A single bearing fan may have a bushing, or just a cantilevered shaft. This will cause the fan to be more difficult to balance and more susceptible to wear.


Identifying name of a connector part An old kitchen table has kind of spanning metal clips connecting parts; some of them are rusty and do not span well anymore.

Note: you might think that because of the rust the clips can't be closed anymore, but in fact they have somehow become weak, i.e. normally you would close and open them with applying slight force, but now the clips can just open up by themselves because of the gravity.

What is the proper name of this metal parts so that I could order and replace them?

I think they are called latch clamps:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=latch+clamp&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Alatch+clamp


Does anybody know what this mini vise-like tool is? Found this mini vise-like tool in the deep recesses of my toolbox. I’m sure my son picked it up from somewhere (he’s always buying strange tools) but he can’t remember what it’s used it for.  It is about 2.5” x 3” and has “79168 K8” imprinted on it, but I couldn’t find anything via google.

It's a Wrench Force Mini Chain Tool. You rivet and break bike chains with it.


Light fixture opening is too wide for baseplate I'm trying to Install a new light fixture and it comes with a circular base plate. However the junction box does not line up flush with ceiling. So when I attach the base plate it ends up being recessed and then the base of the light is unable to be attached.
What solutions do I have for this??

This is a common issue.
One solution is longer screws, if you have adjusted the screws out to their maximum length and they are still not long enough to reach through the holes in the fixture then you can get longer screws at the hardware store or try the other solution.
The other solution is to not tighten the mounting plate up against the recessed box. Loosen the screws that hold it to the box so it hangs below the box enough for the other screws to be usable.  It may take some fiddling with fixture screws to find just the right setting. It is a little tricky to get the screws and holes lined up when it is loose but it can be done.  When you tighten up the little nuts that hold the fixture on it will pull the fixture up against the ceiling so it is not hanging loose.


Any alternative to tar paper for roof damage from hurricane? As a result of Hurricane Matthew, a roughly 12'x4' area on my roof had the shingles blown off. I found the matching shingles today and bought (2) bundles which should be plenty to cover the area.

In the damaged area, 98% is still covered in the original tar paper and intact. However a small about 6"x8" section ripped up and is exposing the wood. It appears at the big box hardware stores, the only way to get tar paper is in massive rolls (most likely for doing an entire roof). I was wondering if there is any alternative I could use for that very small exposed area like a heavy plastic sheet or something else I can get in a smaller quantity. If tar paper is the only thing I can use than that's fine I'll figure it out, but I figure I'd ask the experts here on the best way to cover the exposed wood and repair these shingles. I work on computers for a living, so extra details in this area as I'm just a weekend handyman for my house is much appreciated.

a product named tyvec woven paper and plastic sometimes used prior to shingles and siding. works well and not to expensive find at most lumber yards, the tar paper is mainly a vapor barrier as far as a small repair as yours i see no reason that a small plastic tarp wouldnt work as long as it is seal to the existing tarp using calking or liquid nails


Replacing sealed halogen bulb I'm trying to replace my halogen downlighter in my bathroom. It was installed around 2009 and I'm in the UK. The downlighter is in a waterproof cover because it is directly above the shower. I can't work out how to access the bulb. I can pull the unit down from the ceiling about an inch, and I can twist the bottom of the unit about 1/8 turn, but nothing seems to come apart, and there are no visible screws. I've attached a photo. Can anyone advise on how to proceed? Thank you.

It looks like Aurora series downlights:

for example, here is some catalog.

Judging from photos, their springs are above than that riveted steel, which is BTW might be another spring holding bottom cover (on the catalog many models with same or similar body but with different cover).


Is it required to use AFCI/GFCI breaker when replacing subpanel? I'm replacing my subpanel at home. My jurisdiction adopts NEC 2017.

When replacing a subpanel, is it required to have CAFCI on all circuit breakers for all 120V circuits?
When replacing a subpanel, is it required to have GFCI on all kitchen, bath, garage, etc 120/240V circuits?

It really depends what you're starting with, and what else is part of the scope of work.
If the scope of work is "replace subpanel" for a good reason, e.g. to get more spaces, dangerous (Zinsco), or obsolete (Pushmatic)... that does not trigger a requirement to upgrade breakers to AFCI or GFCI.  So you can simply stay with the same breaker types as you have now.
If it's part of something bigger, like a renovation, then you may be required to update to current-Code breakers for those circuits that are part of the renovation.


Why do I have three phase electricity? I actually have 3 phase in my home. Notes you said it was not possible. Not sure why, but it is here. Why would anyone ever want it?

Here's an example:

My home was provided with a three-phase supply when it was built in 1990 because the builder intended to install an electrical storage-heating system.

I bought the house before the heating system was installed and opted for an oil-fired system instead.

So, in my area, it's an option you can request from the power company if you have a specific need for it.

So far as I know, three-phase supply is commonly used for equipment that requires substantially more power than most domestic household appliances. Some industrial electric motors require a three phase supply. In my area a single phase is 230 V so domestic households almost always use only a single phase. I expect the phases are separated at the local substation where high voltage local distribution is reduced to 230 V.


How to dust proof and waterproof garage concrete screed? I want to treat my single garage floor (15sqm) which is apparently made of soft concrete screed. It looks as being in good shape with no cracks and no signs of water coming but I just want to be sure I would block any future humidity.

The screed is has some small ridges on it as it was not polished and I exclude this step because it is very expensive, messy and labour intensive. I use the garage only for storage but I want to minimise humidity and dust in it.

I found two Sika solutions that should deal with the two issue dust proofing and waterproofing but i don’t know in which order I should lay them, or if I could just mix them and paint with the mix.

Common sense tells me that waterprofing would be last but I have to ask...

https://www.sealantsdirect.co.uk/sika-1-waterproofer-5l.html
https://www.sealantsdirect.co.uk/brands/sika/sikabond-pva-1l.htm
https://www.homebase.co.uk/sika-dustproofer-5l_p402670

I got these 3 above but I didn’t open them so I can return them if another better solution exists.

Any surface coating will prevent dust. just apply the waterproofer.


Gas combi boiler - left running constantly in cold weather I've a gas combi-boiler that is generally working fine, but we're getting some seriously cold weather here at the minute (for us anyway) and I've had the odd problem with the boiler starting up when it has got very cold.

We're going to be away for a few days over Christmas, and I'm thinking about just leaving the boiler running constantly while we're away (don't want a start up to fail and my house to freeze).  Does anybody think that it's a problem to run the boiler constantly like this?

If your condensate pipe may get frozen, see if you can disconnect the pipe and run the condensate into a backet.  Frozen condensate pipe have been a big problem with the recent weather.


How to avoid window sticking to paint? Our house has several sliding windows that have a strip of rubber weatherstripping where the movable part of the window meets the frame when closed.   The most recent paint (a semi-gloss latex) is over two years old, and it still sticks like it was painted yesterday.    I've tried Amour All, which seemed to help briefly, but I'd like to find something that might last an entire season, hopefully without a buildup of gunk.

The window slides on an aluminum rail, and works reasonably well once there is the slightest gap.

Clarification:  The window slides without problem, except that the vinyl weatherstip sticks to the paint (so much that it sometimes pulls some of the weatherstrip out of its groove, and some paint is now on the vinyl instead of the frame).

There is really only one product you should use on windows and door hinges, that is dry silicone spray.  Silicone will not remain wet, collect dirt or build up with every coat or application.  Spray the tracks liberally then wipe it gently with a soft cloth to distribute the product and remove access.  I think you will be pleased with how well it works and how long it lasts.


Filling in hole in bathroom counter tile The previous owners drilled a hole in our tiled bathroom counter for a soap dispenser, but they never installed anything. We're not fans of built in dispensers and would like to fill in the hole. Precisely matching the tile isn't a key requirement as we eventually want to completely redo the bath completely. We mostly just want the hole to be covered up (water intrusion isn't a problem). I don't have any spare tiles nor any information on the type of tile used in this project.

Are there any practical options to install some sort of plug that will be fairly unobtrusive and structurally sound?

Probably the easiest solution is to just get a hole plug of the right size that matches your faucet. It'll be noticeable, but it won't look out of place. Your local hardware store should sell them, though if it's an unusual size I'd just order it online.


Can I install new flooring on top of the existing hardwood floors? I have some 30 y.o. hardwood floor (parquet type) that is overall in decent shape (firm, no squeaking, even, etc.). I'd like to install new hardwood floors, and my contractor says that new floor can be installed on top of the existing one. Is it a good idea? Also, if I want to choose between floating flooring and the one that should be nailed down, which one will be better in this situation?

I'm going to refrain from fully expressing my dismay over the idea of covering up parquet in good condition...

But since it IS in good condition, you should install floating flooring, with a good protective underlayment beneath, because if you install tongue & groove you will destroy the flooring underneath, a sin for which hanging is too good.

Normally I'd say remove the existing floor to maintain grade, but again, since the existing floor is in good shape, I would hate to think of a parquet floor being destroyed for no good cause.


Occasionally floor around toilet is very very wet. Why? A couple of times per week the bathroom floor will be flooded from the toilet. Not sure why since I'm not there when it happens. Can flush the toilet over and over again and everything seems fine. Help.

it is possible that the wax ring is damaged, when another appliance like a washing machine drains the water backs up and causes the water on the floor. If this is the case it will probably get worse and your lines will need to be cleaned tree roots cause this very often in older homes.


Utility panels, gas pipe and building an extension I've found a property I want to buy, renovate and put a side extension on.
The side I want to extend currently has utility boxes on the external wall eg gas meter and I think also the gas pipe entry to the house might be there. What do I need to consider during extension?
Can I just build a cupboard around the panels so they aren't an eyesore in the room or do they need to remain accessible from outside the house?
Thanks :)

Gas
The gas meter will have to be relocated.
The gas company may handle the plumbing up to the meter, but you'll be responsible for extending the indoor plumbing to the new location.  The gas may be off for a few days, while the relocation is completed, pressure tested, and inspected.
Water
Depending on the supplier and local requirements, the water meter may not have to be relocated.  You'll have to ask your specific utility.
Electric
The electric meter will also likely have to be relocated.
As with the gas, the utility may handle the service conductors, but you'll be responsible for anything after the meter.


How to Sync Booster Fan with Furnace Fan I own an old house. Some of the rooms in the house that are too far away from the furnace are not getting enough air, the airflow is too weak. I tried to close as many of the other ones as possible, but the airflow is still too weak. I am going to be installing a booster fan. Not sure which one yet, because I have a rectangular duct. Once I install the fan I don't want it to be on all the time. I want to only turn it on when the furnace fan is working. My furnace fan is always in Auto mode. What's the best way to do this?

It has been suggested to me to use a pressure sensor and put it
in the duct somewhere near a furnace. This way, no need to wire into the furnace.
Should I just find the pins that connect to the
actual fan inside the furnace?
Are there pins on the control board of my furnace that I can use for this purpose?

I spent a few hours searching, but I can't find any actual solutions to my problem. Seems like such a common thing.

Using a 24v/110v relay (installed in the booster fan's junction box) run 2-conductor T-stat wire back to your furnace.  hook 1 conductor to ground, and hook the other conductor to your T-stat's fan wire (usually green, but whatever wire is connected to the "G" terminal on your T-stat).  On the 110v side, break the black wire to the fan and connect leads to the relay.  That's it.  Alternatively, you can use a pressure switch, but they cost more and you'll have to run power (110v, 14/2) from the pressure switch (which should be located in the supply plenum just downstream of the cooling coils) to the booster fan.


Installing base cabinets - screwing to the wall and each other? This weekend I'll be building a couple of base cabinets to replace some of the existing ones, which I assume are original to the house (circa 1960s).  I consider myself handy but have never built cabinets before.  I've done a lot of research, purchased a pocket hole jig, and have most other common tools. The cabinets will be face frames, 3/4 plywood boxes with poplar rails and stiles and 1/4 inch plywood backs.

Thee kitchen layout is an L shape.  One run will be 5 1/2 feet long, replacing an existing run of 3 separate cabinet boxes, which I'll now be making as one unit.  It will meet an existing lazy susan corner cabinet.  A small 12 inch cabinet will be made to meet the other end of the corner box.  The cabinets will be painted - but I was attempting to hide all of the fasteners anyway (pocket holes, end panels, etc).

My question relates to installing, and comes in two parts.

Q1: Securing to Other Cabinets

The existing cabinets are screwed together, side to side, right through the face frames with big counter sunk screws.  It seems other people practice this method as well.  It seems silly to go through the trouble of hiding fasteners and building nice boxes if I'm going to have these big fat screws visible.  Is there another method?  The only place this will apply is where to two new boxes meet the corner box.

Q2: Securing to the House

The next question is related.  The existing cabinets appear to have a couple of drywall screws through the back panel into the wall, close to the top.  While it irks me to have exposed screws again, I can get over it as they'll be up behind the drawers.  I'm mostly concerned about trusting the screw through the 1/4 inch panel.  The existing cabinets seem ok, but do wiggle a small amount if I try now that the counter is off. What is the proper way to secure base cabinets?  All of my searches turn up discussions about hanging wall cabinets, which I wont be doing.  Do I need to secure to the floor? The corner box is "floating" away from the wall and appears to be nailed or screwed through the toe kick, but its difficult to figure out whats going on down there.

Any tips are appreciated. Thank you!

While I am not a cabinet maker by trade, I have successfully built two full sets of cabinets (base and uppers) and am currently getting ready to hang my third in my newly renovated kitchen.

First, always start with the corner box. If it is not already level, square and secure, you'll want to make it so before attaching the other boxes as it's your foundation.

For #1: Yes, you will clamp the front frames together to align and level them to the corner box. Then secure them to the wall using #2 answer below. Then you need to attach the frames together as that will keep your seam from becoming a gap. Your screws need to be 90 degrees not angled when you screw the cabinets together. Do not glue, you may want to replace or refurbish later. You can easily hide the screws by counter sinking your screws 1/2 inch or so and using a plastic or wood plug. Or simply use a nice brass finish screw to compliment your woodwork. Or use a screw that blends in with the color of the wood if you are really concerned about it. Since your cabinets will be painted simply paint the screw head if it is even visible.

For #2: In all of my cabinets I have built a 1 x 2 solid wood rail at the top and bottom of the back of the cabinet that the 1/4 inch panel is nailed. I use this to attach the cabinets to the wall studs for base and upper cabinets. I use 3 inch drywall screws. You do not need to secure to the floor unless you are creating an island that does not have wall access.

I have not tried them, but you can also purchase rails in 8 foot lengths that you can hang on the wall, then attach brackets to your cabinets that hang on the rail. This secures the top of the cabinet but I'm guessing you'd still need to fasten the bottom through a stud.


Can I split (1) 220 line with a 30 AMP breaker into (2) 110 15 AMP outlets using 14/2 wire? Can I split (1) 220 line with a 30 AMP breaker into (2) 110 15 AMP outlets using 14/2 wire ?

There are a few different issues here:
220 vs. 110
Or more typically, 240 vs. 120, but it is really all the same, so don't worry about that.
220 can mean one of two somewhat different things:

hot/hot - i.e., only 220. If you have only 2 wires (plus ground) coming from the breaker to the destination, you can't get 110V from it, or at least not without additional hardware such as a transformer. However, you might be able to simply switch from a double-breaker (hot wire from each breaker) to using just one of the breakers and attaching the second wire to the neutral bar in the panel.

hot/hot/neutral - i.e., 110V & 220V in the same cable. If you have 3 wires (plus ground), then you are actually pretty well set. Then it becomes just a question of breaker size.

Breaker Size
You can't just "change" a circuit from 30A to 15A by using a lower-capacity receptacle and wire. You have to actually change the breaker, in this case from a double 30A breaker to a double 15A breaker. Though I would recommend switching to a double 20A breaker and using 12 AWG wire to be able to handle multiple loads better at minimal extra cost, while still maintaining full compatibility with devices designed to plug into a 15A circuit.
If you actually have 3 wires (hot/hot/neutral) and can change the breaker then you can install an MWBC. This shares the neutral between the two hots. But that can get a bit confusing. A better solution is a subpanel.
If you connect a small subpanel (it can be designed to handle a lot more than 30A as the existing 30A breaker will protect the existing wire), then you can easily support 4 15A 110V circuits instead of 2. The power comes in at 30A x 220V and the breakers in the panel go on one 110V or the other 110V 1/2 of the incoming circuit. You can even have a mix - e.g., a 220V circuit and multiple 110V circuits - in the subpanel. Each of the 110V circuits can be 20A using 12 AWG wire or 15A using 14 AWG wire.


Installing outlet receptacle in unfinished basement furnace/water heater room Recently bought a house with a furnace/water heater utility room in the basement surrounded by a bedroom and playroom space. We just had a water filtration system put in this room that requires a plug. I thought it was really odd that there was no outlet receptacle in this room. My plan is to piggyback off the bedroom receptacle, but I want to make sure that there's nothing in the code about not putting receptacles X distance from water heater or furnace. I'm tracking that it's unfinished basement so the first outlet of the double duplex needs to be GFCI. Am I missing anything? Thanks!

Nothing special needed here except the GFCI since this room is not finished. Finished rooms in a basement depending on how long back may not have AFCI or GFCI protection but adding a receptacle in an unfinished basement room would require a GFCI even if no water present.  The outlet can be directly adjacent to the equipment no spacing is required no covers or anything else is required by the national electric code.


Smoke detector wiring - black wire in 3 wire appears to be damaged. Can I use power from AFCI circuit to power but use red wire to interconnect? I have ~10 smoke alarms (one per bedroom, one per hall).  Somehow the last one isn't working.  The green light didn't go on.  I've done some troubleshooting - swapped the connectors and swapped the smoke alarm with the previous one on the circuit.  This one is at the end of the smoke detector chain.
It seems like the black wire must have been damaged in the wall.  I did multi-meter resistance test by hooking all wires at previous smoke together and at last smoke detector checking resistance.  White and red seem showed .4, black and red or black and white showed 0.  It would be really painful to get a new 3 wire from the alarm back to the previous.  The house is modern has few interior walls - the ceiling in this case is a structural panel.  The path would go through the studs of a door probably where the wire became damaged.  The wire would have been more than 1 1/4" back from the face of any drywall but door jamb get installed with 3" screws and I didn't think about putting a nailing plate anywhere along that stud where a jamb screw could get the wire.
These smoke alarms are from kidde and only do smoke not co.  No co devices in house.
Seems like the CEC and NEC handle the smoke detectors differently.  CEC requires smoke alarms to be on a circuit with lights and if on an AFCI circuit the smoke needs an integral battery (which I take to mean as something that can't be removed).
I am under the CEC so my plan is to use the red wire to interconnect to the previous alarm(s).  I'll cut the black and white of the wiring leading to the non functional back to strain relief in the good smoke detector box.  I'll cut the black and white wire back to the strain relief in the non-functional box as well.  Then I'll pull a 14/2 for power from a bedroom AFCI outlet circuit up to the non-functional to provide power.  I'll get a smoke detector that has a lithium integral battery.  The only piece that I may technically fail on would be if the outlet circuit does not have lights on it as well (I haven't checked).
To get a new 3 wire back I'd have to open drywall at the bottom of the wall for 15'.  Drill through corner studs and pass through a door header (the previous wire is on the surface of the header which was shimmed out for drywall and then had a large piece of metal as a nailing protector 5" wide x 3' long.  The drywall and trim is already painted and caulked.
I wouldn't want to put all smoke detectors on the bedroom AFCI circuit as then I'd need to buy 12 new smoke detectors with integral batteries (one seems reasonable).
I talked to Kidde technical support and the rep claimed that the smoke detectors need to be on their own circuit otherwise they'd be tripped - clearly that is wrong given CEC requires them to have lights on the same circuit.
I tried to address all the comments and I think my plan covers them?  Cutting back the black/white in both boxes should prevent anyone in the future from trying to use them and there won't be an exposed hot wire in my wall.  I am hoping that the red wire is carrying low voltage so even if there is some damage to it there isn't a worry there?  Other thoughts?

Per:

It seems like the black wire must have been damaged in the wall.

Well, do you honestly feel comfortable knowing there is an exposed hot wire in your wall?
I understand that if you proceed with your plan then both ends will be capped off but will the next owner of your home understand the necessity for turning off two breakers in order to de-power all of the smoke alarms?
I don't think there is any requirement per se for the circuit to be dedicated. Just make sure a regular light switch does not control them per https://homesteady.com/12359235/what-are-buss-fuses-used-for:

The power circuit providing electricity can be a dedicated circuit, which means it is the only device powered by cables that run directly back to the circuit box. It can also be powered by a circuit that serves outlets and lights if the circuit is not controlled by a switch.

When in doubt, check with your local code officer!


Single phase utility power connected to 3 phase system Someone has connected a single phase utility temp power panel to a 3 phase system by using one of the phases twice. Is this ok

Using a three phase panel normally used with 208/120 three phase supply with 240/120 supply can be electrically sound and may even be code compliant.   But I am assuming the question is about a 240/120 split phase temporary power panel set on a pole, with a feeder running to an existing three phase panel that was installed with 208/120 three phase supply.  There could be a number of issues.

If there are three phase motors or other loads connected for 208Y, they obviously are not going to run right and may be damaged.

As mentioned in @Peter Green's answer, if there are multiwire branch circuits, you won't get the expected cancellation on neutral conductors, which could quickly result in overloaded on the neutrals.

If there are 208V circuits for appliances etc. (water heaters, baseboard heaters, etc.) they may see 0V or 240V depending which two legs they are on.  Those that see 0V won't run at all (but don't be fooled and think those wires aren't hot).  Those that see 240V - some could be unaffected and run fine; some could run differently than expected; and some could be damaged.


How should I add new joists and flooring to a loft space? First off, basic floor plan of the loft:

Hard lines are the walls on the first floor underneath, joists on the first floor landing run left to right so does that mean the central wall running front to back is 'load bearing'?  Total loft dimensions are 5.2m left to right, 7m front to back.

Next up, photo of one of the corners, bottom right corner on the floor plan, taken from near the hatch:

You can see the 4x2 ceiling joists and another 4x2 going left to right (ceiling binder?) that appears to be nailed to the bottom of the roof rafter and then sits up against the chimney breast on the opposed side of the loft (semi detached house) but not actually tied into anything.

So here's my problem.  I want to put down new deeper floor joists so I can use it for heavier storage and possibly a hobby room of some kind in the future.

Initially I thought of putting 8x2s front to back, supporting them on internal walls where possible.  Problem is that the angle of the eaves would not allow me to rest the ends on anything substantial so could I just bolt them to the rafters as long as they were supported by the walls downstairs too?

Then I got thinking that I'd need to go left to right .. a) because the load bearing walls go down the centre of the house and b) because if I don't the ceiling binder will be in the way.  Same problem however with regards to getting the joists to sit on the external walls and I'm guessing I'm not allowed to bolt a plate to the chimney wall and hang things off that.

Q. Hard lines are the walls on the first floor underneath, joists on the first floor landing run left to right so does that mean the central wall running front to back is 'load bearing'?

If your house is in the UK (which I'm guessing it is), then without a doubt the central wall running from front to back is load-bearing.

  Q. Initially I thought of putting 8x2s front to back, supporting them on internal walls where possible. Problem is that the angle of the eaves would not allow me to rest the ends on anything substantial so could I just bolt them to the rafters as long as they were supported by the walls downstairs too?

Refer to this question here on SE, and read all the answers and comments found within.

Running parallel to the existing ceiling joists is the easiest and preferred way to go.

Removing the binders "locally" to allow the new floor joists to pass is "normally" considered acceptable (then connecting/pinning them back to the new joists passing through), though you would want to check such a detail with your local Building Authority before doing so.

Otherwise if you go the other way (perpendicular), you end up going above the existing ceiling joists, which causes a major re-work of the existing wall plate area that sits on the exterior wall and the roof area above.

  Q. Then I got thinking that I'd need to go left to right .. a) because the load bearing walls go down the centre of the house and b) because if I don't the ceiling binder will be in the way. Same problem however with regards to getting the joists to sit on the external walls and I'm guessing I'm not allowed to bolt a plate to the chimney wall and hang things off that.

Whatever you do, do not connect anything to the chimney wall. Doing so is an absolute no, no in the UK (if I have your location correct).

Again, refer to this question here on SE, and read all the answers and comments found within.

Of course another option is to remove the existing ceilings (lath and plaster), binders, etc. Leave the existing ceiling joists and install new appropriately sized floor/ceiling joists parallel to the existing, then fix a new plasterboard ceiling to the new joists. Granted, such an option adds considerable mess to the job, and a reasonable cost increase.


How to join two fixed male pipes I'm reassembling the gas line to my hot water heater. I'm at the last joint and I have the problem shown in Fig. 1.

I need to join A to B where A and B are both male and both fixed at the other end. So I'm considering using a coupler C. The problem is, no matter which way I rotate C, it's going to loosen at either A or B while tightening at the other. (And I need C to tighten at both A and B.)

How do I solve this problem and join A to B? Is there maybe a different fitting to use? Am I missing something, either obvious or not-so-obvious?

Fig.1. Union of two male, fixed pieces of pipe

Edit: I just found this related answer over at engineering.SE.

You want something like a pipe Union. You might have to check with local codes though cause  you might need have the union at the appliance with gas lines. I am not 100% sure, a plumber would know. https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/product_p/65-union.htm


Adding a standard receptacle to a standard receptacle on a GFCI Circuit Bathroom 1(Common) has a GFCI receptacle.
Bathroom 2(Master Bath) has a standard receptacle that is on the same GFCI circuit of Bathroom 1. i.e. If the test button on GFCI in Bathroom 1 is pushed then Bathroom 2's receptacle does not work.

I need to add another receptacle to Bathroom 2 for an outlet near the toilet.  What is the best method to pull power from the Standard receptacle in Bathroom 2 while still maintaining the GFCI protection?  Should this new receptacle also be a standard receptacle/GFCI?  Sorry if this is a novice question, but I tried reading the other questions and did not see a similar situation.

Thanks for your time and response.

Any sockets placed after a GFCI are protected by the GFCI. So a standard socket will suffice.

One of these toys (make sure it has the GFCI test function) is invaluable. Put it into a standard socket to test the wiring - and then press the button. If that socket is protected, the appropriate GFCI will click off.


Wire a 3 way switch with lights at both ends I moved a three way switch and (stupidly) did not take a picture of the original installation.  I'm trying to put it back together and having difficulty.  This was originally wired in 1980 and worked.  I didn't remove or add any cables.

I have power, one light, 4 conductor cable, and 3-way switch in Box A.

I have two lights, 4 conductor cable, and 3-way switch in Box B.

I moved Box B but I've since taken apart Box A trying to figure this out so I'm re-wiring everything.

How should this go back together?  I've wired a 3-way switch before and I can wire it OK if I omit the lights in Box B.  I think the neutral in Box B needs to be connected to the grounding cable but I'm not sure.

Hot (black)
Neutral (dashed)
Red (traveler)
Green (bare ground)

The last guy used an illegal and unsafe technique to do that.

Smart switch method

Ground is ground in all cases
Neutral is neutral in all cases
Red is switched-hot in all cases
Black on a branch going to a lamp is always switched hot

Smart switch on box A switches the switched-hot.  This leaves the black wire in the /3 (RBWg) spare.  Smart switch remote in box B controls switch A using that wire as needed.

You need to select the smart switch pair carefully.   Such a smart switch would either use the black as an always-hot and communicate via powerline or radio with the master.   Or be battery or inline powered and use the black as a data cable.

Added wires method(s)

If you can switch to /4, you can have 2 messengers (red/black here), neutral (white), and a switched-hot (blue), and it will look like this.

If you can't get /4 you can just double back with a /2 cable and have the /2 carry switched-hot and its partner neutral for light A.  It could transit through box A, but the hot and neutral would need to be separated from the other wires in the box.  That is because in any cable, currents must  be equal (cancel each other out).


Convert switched nightlight+outlet to non-switched outlet I live in Texas in the United States.
I have a 2-gang plate--one gang is occupied by a switched duplex outlet (not half-switched half-hot, but entirely switched) and the other gang by an outdated nightlight+switch unit manufactured by Eagle Electrical. This switch controls both a ceiling light and the duplex outlet aforementioned.
I would like to convert the duplex outlet to be entirely non-switched and hot; in other words, I don't want the switch to control either of the outlets anymore. (The switch would only control the ceiling light.)
Below is a drawing of the configuration I found when I looked behind the 2-gang plate. Everything was encased in an outlet box and I did not take out, nor look behind, the outlet box.

It's a bit complicated. At the top I've drawn three flaps (these are the flaps at the back of the outlet box) and coming out of each flap is a black/white/copper trio of wires. Throughout, B stands for black wiring (which I've also drawn with black marker), W for white, C for copper, R for red. There is one shaded cable coming out of the switch (the switch is in the lower-right of the drawing)---this shaded cable was brown.
Also, yes, the duplex outlet is upside down. I'm told this is common for switched outlets.

Main Question. How can I reconfigure this so that the duplex outlets are hot, and no longer controlled by the switch? I am not a
professional electrician, so any guidance on what coloring I should
use on any new wires I need to connect would also be very welcomed
information.

Side questions:

Is it possible that there is another device, and not just the outlets and the ceiling light, that is somehow controlled by this switch? (I couldn't otherwise figure out the need for the three black wires into the three flaps.)

Is the drawing enough information to safely rewire to achieve my goal? Or do I need to test something, or understand what's behind the flaps, to proceed?

I am a huge fan of using colored tape to re-color wires according to their actual function.
Here, with black=always-hot and red=switched-hot.

What to do next should be fairly straightforward.


What should I do about no ground wire I bought a new bath fan for my old house(1920s).  Where the fan is installed, there is a power/black, and a neutral, but no ground wire to connect to it.  It's old knob and tube wiring.  Is no ground pretty common with old houses?  The new fan has a black, white, and a green wire, is there a safe way to install it?  What should I connect the green wire from the fan housing to?  What is the danger of leaving it disconnected?

The danger of connecting the green wire to a ground that doesn't go all the way back to the panel is that if the fan has a ground fault, the ground wire will not carry the fault back to the safety of the panel, and instead will distribute the ground fault to everywhere on that island of grounds.  So all the grounds will suddenly become hot.

I would leave it disconnected.

I would also assure that this section of the circuit is protected by GFCI.

I would also see that the entire circuit is protected by an AFCI breaker back at the panel.

These have totally different jobs; the AFCI protects from arcing overheat loads caused by failing wires.  The GFCI protects humans from shock due to lack of grounding.


Installing a horizontal fence over the existing vertical fence I am interested in sprucing up my backyard fence without completely putting in a new fence.  I would like to use horizontal wood planks and attach them to my existing vertical fencing?  Is this possible and what materials should I use to best achieve this goal?

I would need to know more about the existing condition of your fence. If you could send me a picture that would be great. I would definitely recommend that your existing fence be in very good shape if you were going to add on to it. If it were old and rickety it wouldn't do you a whole lot of good to put new materials on top of it that's for sure. There's a lot of things to consider. Are you a fasteners I.e. your nails or screws coming loose on your fence? Is the wood rotted or warped? All that stuff makes a big difference in what you are asking. Another thing that is very important is your 4x4 post that are in the ground if they are loose I certainly would not add more weight to the fence. I would hope they were set in concrete from the beginning If they weren't I wouldn't even consider doing this.