Crooked compression fitting: leave be or replace again I installed my first compression fitting (fridge water line) and when I was all done I discovered that it looks like it is slightly crooked.  I'm not sure if this means that I bent the pipe or perhaps did something wrong with the compression fitting itself.  I finished it all up, turned on the water, checked very incredulously, and found that it didn't leak.  I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it for a couple days, but I also can't help wonder if I should just cut it off and try again with a new fitting (there is plenty of room on the pipe).  Any guesses if this is okay or a sign of a problem?  In case it isn't obvious, this is my first attempt at plumbing.

If it doesn't leak it's OK. It looks square where it goes into the compression fitting.

BTW you didn't need any Teflon tape, but leave it alone now. Teflon tape or pipe dope is used to seal pipe threads exposed to fluid under pressure. Certainly in the compression fitting the threads are used to compress a soft metal seal against the tubing and against the harder metal of the fitting; the threads don't have to be water tight.

With the brass adapter to the flexible line, I believe there is a rubber seal in the flexible line that the brass fitting seals against.

The classic junction requiring sealing of threads is normal pipe threads (NTP),  also called IP for iron pipe even when the material is not iron or steel.


Drywall taping, which way should the seam go? Does it matter which way the seam (or fold) in the tape goes when taping butt joints in drywall? I've read that the seam bulge should be the side touching the wall.

That seam bulge is negligible on a newly-unrolled tape. Your butt joint should taper out 24" or more anyway, so a "bulge" of 1/64" isn't significant. It tends to flatten when the tape gets moist anyway.


I just purchased a condo on the beach, which was built in 1978. Trying to drill through the concrete but to no avail. Please help! For the past 3 days I’ve been running to the big box stores to purchase drill bits for metal & concrete to use with my regular corded drill, but to no avail.  So, I’ve done some research. Purchased a corded SDS Bauer Rotary Hammer Drill and a different drill bit just for my SDS drill to use on concrete.  Well, once again I can’t penetrate but maybe 1/8”.  Very frustrating!  What are in my walls?  I live in a condo on the beach, 5th floor.  We do get hurricanes, just thought I’d mention that in case it mattered in the building materials that were used. It’s my closet that I’m trying to put shelves in, which share the same wall as the living room. I believe it is a load bearing wall.  If there’s anyone that could give me some insight, I’d really appreciate it!    Thank you

You should consider using a concrete nail gun which uses 22 cal charges to drive a nail into concrete. These tools are sold at all of the major hardware box stores.


I screwed up with my Kwikset lock during rekeying I bought a Kwikset rekey kit to rekey the locks at home. However, at the beginning I did not turn the lock to "lock" position; instead, it was in unlocked position. I then followed the instructions given with the kit.

In the end, it turned out that I could not open the lock with either my current and new keys. Any solution to this?

There is a way to fix it.  You need to essentially disassemble the lock and line the pins up.  Here's a video explaining how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQjXl78DdUA


Is it easy to convert a cylindrical to mortise lock, or should I just install a deadbolt? My house has cylindrical locks on all the internal doors. These are the ones with one keyed side and one knob/toggle side to lock and unlock a door without the key.
I live in South Africa, and for security purposes I would like to lock the internal doors for the rooms I am not using. (This is legal here). Here mortise locks are ubiquitous and cheap.
I have been researching my options and it seems they are:

Leave the existing knob and install a cylindrical deadbolt. (More expensive, but easier)
Remove the existing lock and replace with a mortise lockset. (Cheaper but more difficult)

I want to go with the mortise locks because they are cheap, easy to come by, and I like the look of a handle rather than a knob, and the existing doorknobs need to be replaced (some of them are simply old and broken). However, I'm not experienced at woodwork/DIY and don't know how easy this is to do. I could drill a hole, but am not so sure about being able to get the square mortise lock cut-out correct. Additionally, I am concerned about the existing cylindrical cutout being too large for the mortise lock handle-plate.
Is there a clear winner here, and am I overlooking anything?
I would be willing to go with the cylindrical deadbolt option if it is significantly simpler to install.

Fitting a mortise-lock is fairly straightforward and only requires basic woodworking skills, really. The two most important tools you'd need are a drill bit of right size for the lock and a sharp chisel of the same width (an additional wide chisel for the sides is useful, but not essential).
Regarding the faceplate width, you'll have to check the size of your existing holes against the size of the plates on the handles you want to use, allowing for the difference in centre position between the cylinder lock and the handle of the new mortise-lock.
Assuming that you can find handles/faceplates to fulfill this requirement, then it's down to your skill, but be aware that drilling the rebate for the mortise will be made harder because when you hit the existing hole, your bit will want to move. I'd suggest drilling the holes which meet the cylinder hole edges first, and using an auger/straight style bit (as opposed to a flat bit). That way you have the start of the hole to help keep the bit from wandering.
Obviously the dead-bolt option would be far, far, simpler. Only you can decide which to do.
One thing which is worth considering, however, is the security-level of these locks.  Sure, you can get cheap-ass mortise locks, but they're cheap precisely because they are rubbish, probably only 2 or 3 lever, and dead easy to pick. A cylinder dead-bolt will be orders of magnitude more secure, but probably easier to kick-in.
Finally, are you even able to fit a mortise-lock in that position? 'Panelled' doors which have a cross-member morticed into the side-rail should not have mortice lock within 3" or so to avoid weakening the door.


Do I need an electrician to install a whole house surge protector? We have some pretty terrible storms and a pretty terrible power company where I live. We experience power surges quite often. So I'm interested in installing a whole-house surge protector. Is this something I would probably want an electrician to install, or is it something I could do myself?

It partially depends on your competency with electrical work, and what kind of surge protector you get. There are two basic models I know about:

Square-D makes a module that mounts the same way as a standard QO breaker in the panel: http://surgelogic.com/residential/surgebreaker-secondary-surge-arresters/. It is very easy to hook up, you plug it in just like a breaker, and simply run the one line to ground. (This is a "Type 2" device). There are other companies that make these as well, be sure to get one that can fit in your panel (each company does it differently).
There are also several types of external boxes which go beside the main panel, and hook up to a 220V circuit. These are possibly a bit harder to install (you need to run conduit typically), but may offer better protection and sometimes also have surge protection for phone lines and cable. These come in both Type 1 and Type 2.

If you're comfortable opening the panel and installing a new breaker, then really either of these methods is okay, though the first is definitely easier.

The "type" I referenced above boils down to (and this is new to me, correct me if I get it wrong):

Type 1 are designed for direct lightning strikes, though you may need a lighting protection system (rod) to take advantage of it.
Type 2 are designed for indirect lightning strikes.

Note, having this doesn't mean you don't need surge protection on individual devices. It certainly takes a way a lot of the risk, but it doesn't eliminate it. For expensive items or things that are very sensitive (eg, computer, home entertainment system) it's worthwhile to put a powerbar-style surge protector right at the equipment).


How to determine if a drain running into concrete slab has a trap? Had a home inspection recently that indicated this drain may not be trapped.  It's a wet bar in my basement that we've never used since we bought the place.  The sink works fine, just never used it.

The main drain for the house runs somewhere near there.  The laundry room is in the next room and that is where the main drain for the house is located (public sewer).  The main drain is about 10ft from this sink.

Is there any simple tests I can do to determine of there is a trap in the concrete or if it's protected by another trap?

Borescopes on Amazon

The cheap and easy way - purchase a camera and look.

Most newer USB-OTG capable phones will work with USB Borescopes/Endoscopes/webcams.

I am using the same USB scope that I bought years ago for use with my laptop, as a borescope for my Samsung S7 phone.

Paired with the free app IP Webcam and/or native Android WiFi screen casting, it has proven quite indispensable in contrast to how little it cost to purchase online.


How to wire Dining room to code: in an open concept kitchen, with one outlet, and stairs I have a unique and strange electric set up in my home's dining room and need help! Can someone advise me on what circuits I need for my dining room because my situation is fairly unique and I haven't seen it addressed elsewhere.

I have a 1950's rambler home with a traditional dining room that opens to the living room and that shares a wall with the kitchen.

In a 1970's renovation, half the dining room floor was removed to build a new staircase going down to the basement. leaving about 6 feet for a dining table instead of the usual 9.

There is the traditional dome light in the middle of the room and 2 outlets (one on the exterior wall near the stairs and one on the kitchen/dining wall.)

In the near future I plan to remove the kitchen/dining room wall to open up the space.

By removing this wall it's basically making a larger kitchen, There would now only be one outlet (near the stairs -- not going to use it for a coffeemaker), and currently there is no overhead light on a 3 way switch for the stairs.

How many circuits do I need to wire for this dining room update?

Can the dining room share the 15amp kitchen lighting circuit? does it require it's own?
Do I need a separate 20 amp circuit for the one 'dining room' outlet near the steps, or can I just tap off the living room, or let it be part of the 2 required kitchen 20 amp receptacles?
How would someone propose providing overhead light for the stairs? a separate light or have the overhead light be a track light that's switchable?

Since this is a remodel of both rooms, it will require both rooms (or at least the scope of the remodel) come up to current code.

The kitchen, dining and living rooms can share a lighting circuit.

The two kitchen countertop receptacle circuits can't serve anything else.  Your cook will thank you if you use more than 2 circuits (to be more precise, you'll never hear about kitchen countertop nuisance trips).  Since you are adding these circuits, every point along the backside of the counter must be within 2' of a countertop receptacle.

Similarly, every point along a dining room wall and a kitchen non-work-area wall must be within 6' of a wall receptacle -- in whatever area your AHJ declares is part of the renovation.  AHJ=permit issuing authority/Code inspector.

A person at the bottom of the steps or the top of the step must have a way to turn on the stairway safety lighting from each end.  This is only an Code issue if the lighting has a switch.  In the LED age when a 40W equivalent light bulb costs $6/year to run and will run 25 years, having safety lighting on 24x7 or day/night sensor activated makes some sense, and then you don't need switches at all.  Code is not particular as to what stairway safety lighting looks like, but your inspector might be.


My toilet is filling very slowly with a Fluidmaster valve, how do I fix it? My toilet is filling very slowly. Sometimes it sounds like it is filling up a drip at a time. What's wrong with it and how do I fix it?

So having done this myself, I spent the money and bought a new Fluidmaster valve. After replacing the valve and connecting everything the toilet was still not functional. Turns out the problem was the flushing of the pipes was not good enough, the Fluidmaster had to be flushed. I flushed a gallon replacing it, and that simply was not enough.

Turn off the water.
Unscrew the cap on the Fluidmaster valve
cover the top with a cup
Turn on the water and allow it to spray into the cup until the water is clear, then wait 5 more seconds.


AC Handler Keeps Leaking After Multiple Repairs (Geothermal unit) I first want to start out by saying I am not a handy man kinda guy. My ac has broken every weekend for the past 2 months. The majority of the breakage is constant leaking from the area I will go over below. After 3 times replacing it my blower motor ended up going bad. Once I replaced the blower motor, the pipe started leaking again. We replaced the pipe again this weekend with guidance from a plumber, he advised the plastic and metal was the problem so he instructed us on how we could create a good connection using cpvc and adapters which we implemented. Last night I noticed the AC is leaking again, this time it is from the same water line but it is on the other side of the coil this time. I feel there is something in the line somewhere causing unsual pressure which is causing the system to leak out at its weakest point. I have lived in the house for 5 years and have not had this issue previously.

I do not know the name of this line so I am having a hard time googling for solutions. No one seems to know how to work on my system and I cannot afford the $10k they want to replace it. I am reaching out here in hopes someone has a good idea of what could be causing the leaks or how to diagnose. Here are some pictures and verbiage to go along with them. Any help is so much appreciated!

Questions

What would I call the line marked D when googling. Water intake line?
I feel the problem is due to new pressure in the system since the leak keeps moving, how do I diagnose if it is the pressure and what is causing the pressure?
Also looking for any other advise or tips to figuring this thing out.

Inside Mapping

A. Condensation Tube

B. Coil the leaking water runs through (first leak was directly before it, second leak is directly after it)

C. Very hot copper pipe (thought was maybe this was shrinking the pvc when it got hot because we kept finding the threaded adapter very loose even after we tightened it, so our last setup removed this possibility)

D. Cold water line that we keep replacing

E. Location the first leak happened before putting brass extension on the
3rd time, after installed it still leaked where brass and PVC met

F. Drain tube from coil which is now leaking

First/Second Leak

Third Leak

Current Leak

Questions

Q: What would I call the line marked D when googling. Water intake line?

A: "Intake" kind of works (we all understand it), but other helpful internet-search terms may include supply, PCV, and radiator.

Q: I feel the problem is due to new pressure in the system since the leak keeps moving, how do I diagnose if it is the pressure and what is causing the pressure?

A: A water pressure guage is how you determine water pressure and I think it will probably be useful (to know, at least generally, the pressure you have). I think that you will want to install a pressure reducing valve and possibly a water hammer arrester as well.

Also looking for any other advise or tips to figuring this thing out.

The problem might be vibrations. If vibrations are present, use a braided connector (for pressure above 25 psi) or you could use a rubber (radiator) hose connection (generally for pressure under 25 psi). Also, secure the pipes with straps wherever possible.

High water pressure can also cause leaks. If this is primarily a pressure problem, then a pressure reducing valve, and/or possibly a water hammer arrestor should help. You may want to install more than one pressure gauge (before and after) the radiator.


Light switch setup using only white wire. Will it work? I'm working on a small cabin.  All black wires are run directly to lights.  The white wires are run to the switches then lights... so each switch has only white wires.

Would the circuit still work?  Why or why not?

Aside from being a code violation of outrageous proportions, if this is 120VAC you would have the delightful condition that the light sockets were always hot/live - this can make changing a lightbulb into a shocking experience, and under the right conditions, also your last.

You may also get some interesting magnetic effects from the loop wiring.

Don't do this. The only level it "works" at is the Dr. Frankenstein's Laboratory level, and most people are not as tough as Igor. If it's actually something you found (or even, nay, especially, if it's something you are responsible for creating), rip it the heck out and do it right.


Could precipitation from steam cause a light switch to short circuit? Our bathroom isn't properly ventilated and so gets really steamy. Last night after my partner had a shower I turned the light on only to be electrocuted by the switch and have the light bulb blow. Is it possible that water got into either the switch or the light socket? And if it is how do we stop it?

The house is at least 80 years old and its clear there is quite a bit of water damage to the bathroom.

You should move that switch to the outside of the bathroom or install a pull cord switch.  You are correct that water will get into both and I really would not be using that switch again.


How can I add a GFCI receptacle on a circuit with split receptacles? I have a typically wired living room with all receptacles switchable on the top outlet. We are installing a large fish tank and decided to add GFCI protection. I'm trying to change a single duplex to a GFCI + single duplex. I would like this box for the fish tank to be hot at all times. I tied together the switchable lead in this box so everything downstream is still the same. I fed the hot circuit through the GFCI and jumped to the neighboring duplex. You see where this is going? I didn't until I flipped the light switch. Shared neutral returning current not seen leaving the GFCI. Is there a way around this without pulling wire? Or do I have to live with switchable top outlets in this box?

Short answer, pigtail the GFCI on both hot and neutral side.  Do not attempt to daisychain any other outlets off the "load" side of the GFCI.


Adding bedroom in walkout basement Can 2 bedrooms share an egress window? Both bedrooms have separate entrances. They will share a door that leads to each room. Only 1 bedroom has egress window.

The International Building Code and the International Residential Code both state that you only need a single clear egress path. However, if your maximum occupancy is more than 10 (in an R-1 structure), you are required to have two egress exits.

Two bedrooms with dedicated entry doors and a conjoining doorway should be sufficient. The additional window is a bonus in the one bedroom.

You can also call your local building inspector office for clarification.


Can I use 6-2 NM W/G when running a new 50A branch circuit to my cooktop? I am looking to buy an induction cooktop (GE Cafe CHP9536SJ). The specification sheet indicates it requires 50A service rated for 11.1 kW @ 240V. At present, there is a 40A circuit (8-2 NM-B WG) running to the existing cooktop so I need to run a new branch.

This is a drop-in unit and designed to be hard-wired. It comes with a flexible pigtail and expects me to supply a junction box for making the electrical connections. I intend to use insulated single entry splice terminals for the hot wires and a split bolt for the ground.

The installation instructions state: "You must use a two-wire, three conductor 208/240 VAC, 60 Hertz electrical system. A white (neutral) wire is not needed for this unit." So standard 240V US wiring will do and it seems that the internal electronics don't bother with 110V like older ranges so a neutral is specifically not called for. When I open the box I expect to find only three conductors coming out of the pigtail: two insulated (red/black) and one bare ground.

Given that I will run a new branch circuit (i.e., not use existing wiring) am I OK running 6-2 NM-B W/G? Is there some separate requirement that new circuits include an insulated neutral wire even if it will simply be tapped off in the junction box with the world's largest wire nut?

It's a fairly long run to the main breaker panel (60-70 ft) so there is a substantial price difference to consider plus pain of pulling less flexible cable.

I see no reason to include an insulated neutral. (40-years in the business.)  One thing you may or may not be aware of when making the splices in the J-box behind the new range, use an over size box. And #2 use something better than a large wire nut to make the hot lead connections.  Polaris makes a good splice connector. That kind of current can cause real problems with poor connections.  Wire nuts were never designed to handle those kind of loads.


CFL integrated or non-integrated My parent place come with non-integrated CFL fixture. Over the year, some of the socket, ballast and bulbs are out. I wondering if I should go to replace all of them to integrated CFL fixture. Is there any advantage non-integrated CFL over integrated CFL?

CFL technology is entirely obsolete, so pouring additional money into that tech doesn't make much sense.

Replace ballasts/lampholders if easy and cheap

The only reason to continue with non-integrated CFLs is if the ballasts and lampholders are readily available and cheap.

For instance, that is exactly what I do with 48" tube fluorescents, but ballasts and lampholders for those are dirt cheap.

Switch to "integrated CFL" (???) fixture

An "integrated CFL" is the product most of us are familiar with, with a commonplace screw-in lamp base and the ballast on-board the "bulb".

The lamp base is usually the Edison E26 screw base, the one we're all very familiar with.  Sometimes it's the smaller candelabra screw-in base.

There are other goofy bases, such as GU24 - designed to stop you from using incandescent bulbs.  This meets some misguided energy-efficiency requirements, and means manufacturers don't have to certify fixtures for the high heat of incandescent bulbs.  Total waste of time: people just get adapters so they  can use the far cheaper Edison-base CFLs and LEDs.

So if you're changing fixtures, get a fixture with the common Edison E26 base. You can get  E26-base "integrated CFLs" if you really want to, but I recommend you take advantage of the very good pricing on "integrated LEDs", which are superior in every way including color temperature and light quality.

I just got rid of several dozen "integrated CFLs"; our household has gone LED.  I went with quality GE units on sale for $4 each.

Modify your existing fixtures to Edison base, no ballast

It's the way to go if you're in love with the fixture and/or cost is a factor.  This will require some handyness. Sockets and lamp parts are readily available at respectable hardware stores, and to a lesser extent at big-box home improvement stores.

Again, this will allow you to use common off-the-shelf integrated "bulbs" of any technology you choose; limited to wattages below that of the old fluorescent bulb (since the fixture is not rated for any more heat than that.)


What could be causing strange voltage readings? My wife bought some new wall sconces for the house and asked me to install them. I'm not an electrician (obviously) but this seemed like something I could handle. So I switched them out, following proper safety precautions, wiring the new ones analogously to the old ones, and they illuminated. Cool!

While we were at it, she says, lets put the old sconces in the hallway in these mysterious electrical boxes behind the hanging picture frames that are apparently wired but we've never used for anything. Sure, why not? Eight hours later I've partially reverse engineered the electrical schematics for the upstairs of my house, the new sconces aren't working, the original sconces aren't working, and a significant sub-circuit in my home no isn't getting any power. Let that be a lesson to you. If it's not broken, don't fix it.

So it turns out I've got an electrical box in my old (i.e. "has character") home and there are two cables coming into it (well probably one coming in and one coming out to be precise). The cables each contain two-conductors (I presumed a live and a neutral). For the purposes of discussion, let the conductors in the first cable be A and B, and let the conductors in the second cable be C and D. I believe, before I took things apart, that conductors A and C were wire-nutted together and conductors B and D were wire-nutted together in the junction box.

I couldn't be sure which of these wires were lives and which ones were neutrals, so I got out the multi-meter and took some measurements. I wasn't 100% sure what to expect. I mean sticking the two probes of the multimeter into a known working two prong (most of the house isn't grounded) electrical socket, something I advise against doing on a regular basis, I measured 120VAC (which is what I would have expected, being in the USA and all).

What I actually measured makes no sense to me - but what do I know... My question is, what are the implications of the following measurements taken in the electrical box?

Between A and B: ~18VAC
Between A and C: ~65VAC
Between A and D: ~65VAC
Between B and C: ~ 0VAC
Between B and D: ~65VAC
Between C and D: ~ 0VAC

I didn't measure these before I started this wiring odyssey unfortunately... but I can't make heads or tails out of these measurements - I don't see 120VAC between any two of them... what does that mean?

Are the wires color coded? (they should be). Black is the "Hot" and White is neutral. If you had a three wire system the bare wire or a green whire would be the safety ground.

Next I would recommend that that there is a much better and safer way to debug your wiring. First turn off all power to your house by shutting off the main breaker. Since you do not know exactly where your wires go, that is the only way to guarantee that they are not hot.

Now use a wire tracing kit like this one from Triplett or something similar.
 That way there will only be low voltages on the wires and you will not risk electrocution or a fire.


3-way switches with receptacles I have two three-way switches controlling the bottom outlets in my living room receptacles. I recently replaced one with a Lutron Caseta and it worked great, no issues.
More recently, I went to swap the other three-way and one of the visible receptacles from almond to white just so everything matched. I’m not very knowledgeable with AC but I shut the breaker off and replaced the receptacle and switch wire-for-wire (or so I thought).
I turned the breaker back on and now had constant power to the receptacles, but the Caseta did not have the little green light it normally has, and flipping the three-way switch did not cut power off.
In order to troubleshoot I replaced the Caseta with the original 3-way switch. Same problem, constant power.
My primary issue is the color of the wires does not match any diagram I can find. One 3-way has ground, black, white, and red. Another has two red, one white (no tape), and ground. The bottom outlet of the receptacle I replaced has one white on one side and two red on the other (one screwed one, one punched in). There are no caps in the boxes like I would have expected where neutral is being run through.
So I am thoroughly confused by this wiring, and it seems the most obvious source of the issue is that I misplaced a wire connection in the switch or receptacle, but I have no idea where because none of the diagrams I have found seem to apply. How do I fix this?

Based on your details on what you did with the replacement outlet, I'd say you didn't remove the metal tab on the outlet connecting the two brass, power, screws. Doing this allows the two outlets to be split between always hot and switched hot.
The one wire you "punched" into the backstab should be pigtailed so you don't use the backstab. they are very prone to failure.


Shed subpanel wiring I have a portable building about 50 ft away the house.  I had an electrician come run a feeder to a subpanel in the shed.  Looks like he tapped off of my Generac Transfer switch.  When I opened up the subpanel in the shed I noticed there are 2 hots and a small bare ground coming in.  Is there a reason why he did not run a Neutral?  I only paid him to run the feeder and I was going to run the 2 circuits in the shed to the subpanel (2 shop lights and 4 outlets).  Do I need to treat this subpanel as a Main?

Stop payment on the check

This guy is not a real electricion.  This work is a hack job, with shortcuts all over the place that are insanely dangerous, and have never been legal, ever.

I guarantee you no permit was pulled, either.  The inspector would not have signed off on this.

Subpanel connection pretends neutral=ground. Dangerous!

On the subpanel connection, the person is completely ignoring "Neutral is not ground" and doing something that was never legal, using the ground wire as neutral.  It will kinda sorta "work", but if anything goes wrong with that ground wire, it will electrify every ground in the shed, and possibly, in the house.  It's much worse than the old NEMA 10 killer.

No ground bars in the subpanel

Hello!  Neutral and ground need to be separated in the subpanel.  Ground bars are like $6, so this was a very cheap negligence.

I'll lay dollars to donuts there's no ground rod, either.

No disconnect in the shed

There's no main breaker in the shed - that's the usual way you install a disconnect switch for an outbuilding.

The panel is UNFUSED, WTH!!!!!

The feed cable to this subpanel has no fuses whatsoever.  Nothing will keep this cable or subpanel from exploding into flame.

This is just not giving a damn.  Negligence of staggering proportion.

The panel is double-tapped

Those lugs that the wires are hung onto -- are not made or rated for two wires.  You can only put 1 wire per lug.

This is the bare minimum rigging to get it to barely work.  I'd exepct this type of work in Kowloon City or Bangkok. Faked it and hoped you wouldn't notice. I would actually talk to the AHJ and warn that this clown is operating in your town.


Seeking a way to operate a Laundry Dryer when I'm not using my Kitchen Stove/Oven I want to use a Clothes Dryer in my Apartment, but it requires a 240 volt plug.  The only place that has such a plug is the Kitchen Stove/Oven.  Is there a splitter available (or could I make one) so I can roll the Dryer into the Kitchen and use the Dryer in the Evening when I am not using the Stove/Oven without having to pull the stove out and unplug it, to plug in the Dryer?  Then I could put the 220 volt plug socket on the wall above the Stove for easy access to plug in the Dryer?

Bad idea.  Those large NEMA 10-50 connectors are not  made for frequent use. Because of the very high insertion force, they are actually much more fragile than you would assume.

Also, you are almost certainly dealing with old 3-prong NEMA 10 ungrounded connectors.  Dryers or stoves connect via an exception in the electrical code, in which they are allowed to bootleg ground, tying the machine chassis to the neutral wire.  This is dangerous because if the neutral wire ever breaks, it will electrify the machine's chassis!   The logic is "these connectors are unlikely to fail because they are rarely unplugged“.

See a problem?

An additional problem is that dryers are made to be matched with 30A breakers, not 40A or 50A.


What wire gauge is needed to replace old wires in a vintage chandelier? I'm replacing the wiring from a vintage chandelier and need to know what gauge wire to use. There are five lights on it. This is for the  fixture only!

If you're in the US, NEC likely applies. Article 402 covers fixture wires, and explains what types and sizes are allowed.

Type

Table 402.3 lists the types of wires allowed to be used as fixture wires. If you're going to rewire the fixture, you'll have to use a type of wire listed in this table.

FFH-2
HF, HFF
KF-1, KF-2, KFF-1, KFF-2
PAF, PAFF
PF, PFF
PGF, PGFF
PTF, PTFF
RFH-1, RFH-2, RFHH-2, RFHH-3
SF-1, SF-2, SFF-1, SFF-2
TF, TFF
TFN, TFFN
XF, XFF
ZF
ZFF
ZHF

Size

Table 402.5 lists the allowable ampacity for different sizes of wire. You'll want to use a wire that's sized properly for the load you'll be serving.  In most cases, the maximum bulb size you'll have to account for is 100 Watt. Which means you'll likely only be looking at about 833 mA (100 Watts/120 Volts), so you can probably get away with 18 AWG wire.

402.6 says that fixture wires cannot be smaller than 18 AWG, so you'll have to use at least that size wire.

Overcurrent Protection

402.12 points to 240.5 for overcurrent protection of fixture wires, which tells you what size overcurrent is required for different sized wires. 240.5(B)(2) lists the size and length of fixture wires, when connected to circuits with various sizes of overcurrent protection.

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Article 240 Overcurrent Protection

  I. General

  240.5 Protection of Flexible Cords, Flexible Cables, and Fixture Wires.

  (B) Branch-Circuit Overcurrent Device.

  (2) Fixture Wire. Fixture wire shall be permitted to be
  tapped to the branch-circuit conductor of a branch circuit in
  accordance with the following:

  (1) 20-ampere circuits — 18 AWG, up to 15 m (50 ft) of run length
  (2) 20-ampere circuits — 16 AWG, up to 30 m (100 ft) of run length
  (3) 20-ampere circuits — 14 AWG and larger
  (4) 30-ampere circuits — 14 AWG and larger
  (5) 40-ampere circuits — 12 AWG and larger
  (6) 50-ampere circuits — 12 AWG and larger

Conduit/Tube Fill

You may also have to refer to Table 1 of Chapter 9, to determine the maximum number of wires that can be in a conduit or tube.


Removing leftover laminate tile adhesive I've got an older house that had laminate tile put down in the kitchen. I've peeled up the tile using a heat gun to reveal beautiful fir flooring underneath, but there's a sticky residue left. I'm assuming this is the left over glue.

How can I remove this sticky substance without destroying the soft wood underneath?

Really hot water.  Have tons of towels and buckets handy so water does sit long.  Repeat until it comes up.


Looking for color profile and tint information - Falu Red I wish to mimic the traditional swedish summer house colour Falu Red for a DIY project at home but I cannot buy the traditional Falu or Falun Red paint - so does anyone know the colour or tint that would be closest so I can get the paint shop to mix me up a similar colour?

I'm hoping to walk into a standard paint shop and give them the details (from an answer, here) and the shop can then magically mix up a pot that's very very very similar :)

Sherwin Williams SW 2914 Vermilion is as close to Falu Red as I have been able to find.  On a computer screen they are nearly indistinguishable.  My local Home Depot was able to make me a Behr Premium Plus Deep Base PP103 color sample of SW 2914.  Its a LOT cheaper than Sherwin Williams!


Window upgrade questions I decided that I want to replace my windows, and figured I'd start with a small bathroom window downstairs. I build wooden furniture as a hobby, but have very little experience doing construction/carpentry.

So before I even start I want to just remove some trim and see what I'm working with and if I can identify the jamb, etc.  For the most part every window consists of aluminum strips mounted to the jamb, with the sashes riding in the strips. Then there is a strip mounted to the outside of the jamb with storm windows mounted to this strip.

I removed the inside trim and saw that there's a storm window mounted to a strip installed in the frame. So I went outside and pull the screws out from all around the storm window, cut some caulk that might have been installed when the put vinyl siding on the house, and assumed that it would pop right out. The thing didn't budge. When I look back on the inside I see that it looks like construction adhesive (not caulk) holding the window to the strip.

The screws holding the storm window were mostly stripped, so I'm thinking at some point someone glued them in.

I can break the adhesive on the bottom and get it to move, but I can get access to the top of the storm window.

My questions are:

Does this assessment that they've glued the storm window in seem correct - shouldn't it just pop right out when I remove the screws? Or is there something else holding it in?

Does this look like the jamb?

Finally, should I remove this flashing first? I don't want to bend it up getting in there to remove old windows, but I don't want to remove it if it does not go back on easily. I can see where it is nailed on - it was installed when we had vinyl siding done about 5 years ago. There's some caulk around it too.

Ultimately, I think I'm going to have to destroy the storm window to get it out, but I want to have a replacement ready to go in case I break the regular window. The measurements look to be 24" by 33 1/2" - you can actually see in one of the photos someone wrote "33 1/4". It's just weird because it almost looks like the windows were kind of put together on site or something.

I've found a couple other storm windows which are glued on - you can see in each case the strip which I believe is supposed to hold them is mostly rotted away, so I'm guess that's why they glued. Luckily, most are not glued.

Any other advice on this situation would be greatly appreciated!

The pictures you added, were edited with info to help you decide which way you want to go.

There are 3 options to choose

1) Out right replacement of the whole window sash and all.

This is the most expensive way to go about it.
Its benefits are the ability to check the condition of the framing. Windows leak over time and unseen damage will be hidden.
The other considerations are you may need to remove your siding and reset some of it to get you new windows in with their preapplied trim in place. Then again, it is a newer style of window versus sash weights, and the trim or nailing flange will fit very nicely. There is a chance you will need finish it off by covering it with a PVC brick mold.

2) Renovation kit with sash and jamb. These fit a new jamb with sash directly into the existing jamb, saving the existing trim and labor removing the jamb and trim. You only need to remove the sash and track.

I have seen wood sash versions of this, but I can only find vinyl kits for an example for now.
This is a cheaper and simpler way to replace windows.
You really need to make sure the wood that is to remain is not rotted, or has taken on water at any time. This will be your only time to get this in check until you find the rot the hard way, or until the windows are replaced again.
The outside stop, if all other wood is in good order will need to be covered in metal to keep the wood protected. At that time you may choose to have it all rewrapped to inspect and cover it all without extra seams/joints.

3) Use a jamb reliner kit

Cheapest of all options
Needs to meet all of the requirements for option 2


Why does my toilet make a low-pitched moaning noise when it refills? This hasn't happened before, but now it's making a low-pitched moaning noise (like a low-pitched vuvuzela) every time we flush the toilet.

This happened only very recently, and we also just recently replaced the fill valve.  The replaced fill valve was extremely quiet, so this noise is just very sudden.

Also, if I push the water hose from the toilet to the water line a little bit, the noise disappears immediately.

This happened to me once. I solved it by shutting off the water all the way and turning it back on again.

If that doesn't help, try taking the parts out one by one and flushing them with water. It's possible a small piece of debris (Such as an iron or mineral deposit) got stuck in there.


What NEC section, if any, covers an owner wiring their own home? A question answered by Karl Katzke said:

  you are allowed to pull an electrical permit on your OWN residence

Can anyone tell me if there is language in the NEC to this effect and if so what is the section number?

In general, the NEC (or any other code for that matter) specifies how the work must be done, but does not touch on who the work must be done by. The who is covered by local statutes (whether city, county, or state). Permits and licenses are entirely state, county, or city constructs, and various jurisdictions utilize different versions of the NEC.


Im installing hardwood floor, and the mositure level readings are staying divergent between flooring and subfloor, what should i do? I've watched some you tube videos, and bought a $100 wood moisture reader. Apparently my birch hardwood (which currently reads 6%) should be within 2% of the moisture level of my subfloor (currently sitting at 12%) in order to proceed with my naildown installation. However after a couple days, nothing is changing. Any ideas what could be the reason?

It will take a week at least to get the moisture to move the the direction it needs to go. Be patient it will acclimate.

Some meters have an adjustable scale for hardwoods, softwoods and plywood, etc., make sure the difference is not because of a calibration from one type of wood to another.


flat concrete roof with weathering course leaking in many places It is about 30 yr old building with flat concrete roof with weathering course on top. It started leaking in many places during rainy season. The roof area is about 1200 sq.ft open.what is the remedy.

A new layer of waterproof material; generally referred to (here) as a re-roof , though of course you would not be replacing the concrete roof. Depending exactly what you mean by a "weathering course" that will probably be getting replaced, removed and replaced on top of a new waterproof membrane located under it, or covered by the new roof system.

Re-roofing is generally the best/most economical time to consider whether you might benefit from adding insulation to your roof to mitigate heat and/or cold passing through it.


How to isolate street noise from the garden? I am helping a friend rebuilding an house he recently bought.

One of the issues with it is that he only has a front garden and its in a very busy street, with cars. It would be nice to reduce that noise.

Are there any "hard" solutions, preferably with good aesthetics, that may help to break the noise?

Are bushes a good solution or should he use something else?

Foliage won't do much unless it's very dense and a fairly wide strip--say 50 feet thick or more. Instead, you'll need to look to solid-panel fencing to block and deflect sound energy.

The problem is likely that there are other homes nearby, which will reflect sound from several directions. You may not be able to accomplish significant noise abatement with that consideration.

As they say in real estate, the three most important assets of a property are location, location, and location. This is a case in point. My current home has a highway a few hundred yards away, and we hear it almost constantly. Eventually our ears tend to become accustomed to ambient sound and it's less of an annoyance.

More information


Grounding issues and ground tester I put an Allied Precision Industries 15N water tank heater in a week ago and found that it's shocking the horses.  Used one for 10+ years with no problems so something has changed. We have an old house. It has 100 amp service. The neutral (white) wires and ground wires are on the same and only bar in the main breaker box.  When I test any outlet with a plug in 3 prong tester it reads open ground.   I know this isn't true because I can use a multi tester and read 120 volt when touching the neutral slot or the ground prong hole.

The outside grounding rod was an old galvanized pipe and very corroded.  I replaced it with a new rod and new wire.

Still not sure what's going on.  Are the plug-in testers really reliable or doesn't it work because my wiring system isn't wired for ground fault receptacles?   Thanks.

Those plug in testers can be total crap. I have about a dozen of them and 2/3rd of them show good circuits while the other 1/3rd show problems, and not all the same problem.

You might be surprised to find out with a high impedance meters ( the type most meters are) you can plug the meter lead in the hot terminal (the smaller one) you may read a voltage very close to your supply.

As for the neutrals and grounds being in the same bar this correct at the main panel but every place else it is not allowed. Since you just replaced the water heater and are having problems I would add a ground bond to the outlet pipe, animals are more sensitive to leakage currents than we are and this might solve the issue. I would also suggest to drive a 2nd ground rod.

Standard rods are only 8' long in the past when I have used pipe I use a full stick that is usually 10' long. Current code requires 2 if this is your only grounding system 6' or further apart. Unless the single rod has a 25 ohm or less resistance (takes a special meter to measure so most just drive 2 ).

Also, I was initially thinking we were discussing a water heater, now with the edit I see it is a "cal rod heater". Put your meter probe in the water and then to ground. If you measure a voltage the heater has leakage and is faulty, take it back. All my tanks are metal and sit on the ground outside and we only have a few weeks a year where we have to break ice. I would encourage you to put this heater on a GFCI outlet! But I believe you have a faulty heater.

Even with no ground the hot conductor of the cal rod is in the center protected by a metal jacket. It is basically a big resistor that gets hot so either the jacket is cracked or the connection points are not properly sealed - this is the reason the horses are getting shocked. Not a grounding issue.


Is my contractor's proposal for a driveway base in Scotland suitable? I have a question. I live in Scotland and I asked builders to do my driveway, about 60 sq meters. It is a driveway where I'll be parking the 2 jeeps I have, with a total weight of about 6 tonnes. These builders told me they are going to excavate about 40-50 cm, put 20 cm hardcore type 1, then 10 cm hard sand, then 10 cm soft sand and finally lay the blocks or slabs. According to them the driveway will be very solid and it won't sink. They said this is the way they all do up here in Scotland.

So I had a look around in the little village where I live and I noticed that almost all the driveways where people drive and leave their cars, are sinking, you can fairly see "waves" made by the weight of the cars.

So I asked a few friends of mine in Italy ( I'm Italian ) and they said that the driveways have to be done in this way : excavate 20-22 cm lay a heavy duty mesh like the one you use for ceilings, then pour 12-15 cm concrete and after a couple of days lay the blocks/slabs  using a mix of cement and lime. The driveway will never move for 100 years!

They said I could do like in the first example if I wouldn't be going back and forth with cars every day. Please give me suggestions cause the whole thing is driving me nuts...thanks a lot

The most important step is the "base". Here, we excavate down about 12", then compact the existing ground (your finished product is only as good as your base), then install 10" of crushed gravel (not round rock) that is evenly graded from 2"" down to fines (sand), then install a leveling course of 3/4" crushed rock that is evenly graded down to fines and then place the "wear" course on top.  (Of course each layer is compacted as it is installed.) The wear course can be asphaltic paving, concrete slab, reinforced concrete slab, stone slabs, brick pavers, etc.

Compaction can be by manual tamping, but it's better with a mechanical tamper.

We use crushed rock for the base because it "locks" together and is cheaper than making the wear course extra thick.

All driving surfaces will settle. The key is to break it up so the cracks are not noticed. We do this by using slabs with "control joints". so when each slab settles, the cracks are small and "designed" into the surface.

You  mentioned installing "slabs". So, if you use concrete slab (with or without reinforcing) you need to divide it into "slabs" with control joints every 15' on center each way for non-reinforced concrete slabs and 25' on center for reinforced slabs. (Be sure to stop the reinforcing from going through the joints too.) The reinforced slab is good because it will "span" soft spots and not have differential settlement, but the reinforcing and location of the control joints need to be designed by a professional.

If you use smaller slabs, maybe something that could be picked up by 1-2 people, then each slab will move, twist, etc., but not be held in line and show more differential settlement.

If you're just building a couple parking stalls, I'd have my contractor install the gravel base and compact it and then stop and let you park on it for a couple weeks. This will take most of the settlement out. Then, the contractor could spread a thin layer of gravel to level it all up and then install the wear course.

What we use is not necessarily what you should use, because it may not be available without great cost. However, the principles are the same: 1) compacted soil, 2) good rock base, and 3) well placed sound wear course.

Make sure you have good drainage and your drive/slab will be there longer than you...maybe as long as The Appian Way.


How close should I install J-Channel to a Roof I'm siding around a couple of Dormers.  When I install the J-Channel on the bottom of the sides of a dormer along the sloped roof How low should the J-Channel be?  Can It touch the shingles?  I'd have to nail the J-Channel about 1 inch up on the step flashing if it does touch.  Are other steps typically taken, other than the housewrap, to protect the wall of the dormer from water?

You're right that nailing so low is a concern. Typically I'd leave at least an inch between the shingles and the channel. If you use color-coordinating step flashing this isn't an aesthetic concern. You can also overlay rubberized window flashing tape on the step flashing to seal nail punctures better.

You don't say where you are, but I'd worry about melting snow leaking through low punctures in the flashing, or flow and splash from heavy rain.


How can I stop sap from seeping out? I have some sap seeping out of a fur/pine door I installed and stained last year, how do I stop that from coming out?

On interior wood, painters use alcohol-based shellac to pre-seal knots before they prime.

Shellac blocks both oils and water for a good stain-proof seal, while also promoting adhesion between coats.


Soft paint Kitchen Cabinets I sanded then painted my kitchen cabinets with a primer by Behr and two coats of a gray eggshell finish latex paint by CIL. Now I notice that the finish is easily scratched. Will this paint harden up over time, or do I need to put some kind of clear coat over it to make it durable in the kitchen?

All paint finishes will harden over time, so yes.  However, thicker coats of paint take longer to cure.

You used latex paint - this is a softer film surface than alkyd paints.  For this reason, I prefer alkyd for kitchen cabinet doors, although latex paint can be applied successfully if it is built up in thin layers.

Rather than applying another coat of something on top of the paint, I suggest leaving the cabinets to cure for a time.  Once the paint has cured then you can determine if the finish is hard enough (durable enough) for your environment.


How to deal with halogen lights hurting your eyes? I have gable roof and there are 4 halogen lights on ceilings. If I am sitting upright, it's good but due to the angle of the ceiling, if I move slightly to any direction the light goes directly to my eyes.

Even if I look at my tablet or phone the light reflection hits my eyes. It's very annoying and I searched to find some sort of diffuser but they are only used for light bulbs and halogen lights are flat and screwed inside the wall/ceiling. Any solution that helps is appreciated.

I am looking for something that is also good looking. I don't want to have something like a patch on the ceiling.

Well... if they are halogens, they are bulbs.  Replaceable bulbs.

Replace them with something else.

You have to be cautious when selecting LEDs because some LEDs can be even harsher than halogens, depending on how they're diffused internally.  However, you can count on a CFL bulb being gentler light.


What can I burn in fireplace to minimize smoke I had my fireplace checked and was told that the flue is too small for the fireplace (historic home, botched renovation by prior owner).  As a result, a normal fire sends smoke billowing into the room.  I'd still like to use the fireplace for appearance rather than heat.  Is there anything I can burn that will minimize the smoke?  I know I could get an electric insert but I'm interested in other options first.

How about a sealed wood-burning insert? All the smoke will go right up the flue.


Where can I find very strong wall brackets capable of supporting a punch bag? I'm looking for an alternative to brackets actually made for punch bags as those available to me are very expensive. I need a bracket capable of holding a ~35kg/77lb punch bag that would be swinging around. Ideally a part of it would stick out giving the bag some space.

I'm struggling to think of what these brackets might be called so I can find a way to search for shops who sell them etc.

If it has no mounting holes, I could drill one, so that doesn't matter too much.

I tried to think of an adaptive use of some common building product but drew blanks. That may be why purpose made ones are expensive. If it really seems exorbitant, you might be able to get a local metal shop to fabricate one for less. For that matter, someone with decent carpentry skills could build one from wood. The joint designs would be critical to ensure they are strong enough and don't vibrate apart. Something of welded steel would be a lot more idiot proof.

Is there a possibility of hanging the bag from the ceiling? This is more likely a DIY solution. There's been a few questions recently about this here. The key is to use multiple fasteners such as lag screws to engage multiple ceiling joists to spread out the load.


What type of latch should I use for a sliding gate? I need to build some safety gates at the top of my stairs to keep little ones contained.

Because of the way that the landing is arranged, I am thinking about a sliding gate instead of a traditional gate on a hinge that swings open.

It would be similar in function to the gate built here except smaller and for use indoors.

In other words, something like this that slides instead of swinging open on a hinge:

The only thing that I don't have a great solution to is how to latch the gate when closed.  I don't want to use an eye-and-hook latch as in the aformentioned project because they don't look good and are hard to use with one hand.

Most other types of gate latches assume a gate that swings open, which obviously wouldn't help here.

Any suggestions for a way to keep a sliding gate like this securely closed?

Could you just use a normal auto-closing latch (a la http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Black-Gate-Latch-15462/202042227?N=5yc1vZc2e2) and mount it so the gate slides the latch into place?


Will 2" x 6" treated lumber warp if used like this? I will be using 10-ft x 2" x 6" treated lumber for a rail. Will treated wood used as a rail warp?

Let me explain the application:

I have a 10-ft 2"x6" piece of treated wood that will be attached at each end (with screws) to two 4"x 6" steel bases anchored to concrete.

I assume that length-wise it won't warp since it's anchored at each end. Width-wise, the 4"x6" steel base will have (4) holes on each corner holding the piece of wood. My thought is that there's no way it will warp since all the area (width-wise) is held down by a screw.

This is the idea. Will there be any very noticeable warping in this case?

Treated lumber is more likely to warp due to its high moisture content, and the outcome depends on several factors:

How securely it's mounted - warpage can create strong forces, but they can be resisted in some cases.
How quickly it's allowed to dry - direct sunlight dries the exposed surfaces quickly, exacerbating warpage.
The grain of the board - those with cupped grain are more likely to experience cupped warpage.


Installing night-light switch on hot-neutral-ground circuit I am attempting to add a light switch that has a night light in it to my workshop. I noticed that the switch box only has one neutral wire leading to it, and what appears to be a ground wire tied into the box.

The house was built in the 1950s, and the switch requires a neutral wire going from both the switch and the night light for both to work. Is there any easy way to accomplish this?

That won't work.  The problem with this and any other powered switch, dimmer, motion sensor, etc. is that the switch itself is a load.

As such the powered switch needs always-hot and neutral all by itself, and of course it also needs a switched-hot wire so it can operate the light.  That is three wires, and the ground doesn't count.

I see where you have only one /2 Romex with two wires in it.  That means it is a "switch loop" (that's a google word) and will not have a neutral.  (Or perhaps it is wired backwards, and it has a neutral and no hot).

Since you have the wall off, consider replacing that /2 run with a /3. That will provide what you require.  Use the red for the switched-hot.

This is now required for new construction.

Another option is to use a "smart switch" to control the light, which talks wirelessly to a control module in the light fixture.  In this case the control is wireless and the switch loop wires are redesignated as always-hot and neutral.


What could be wrong with my dryer timer? Mom's dryer timer quit working a while ago and I told her not to leave it with time on, but she did anyways ("If you turn it to zero it will never turn back on!")

Now, if the timer is turned to any amount of time and the door is shut, it buzzes. Like, an electrical hum/buzz/something.

It also doesn't start.

Company is Tappan Appliances (old, yes) and model is 47-2451-00/0
What could be wrong? Is it fixable? Anyone know how to fix it?

In general, if the timer isn't advancing, is making odd noises, not stopping, etc. the solution is to replace the timer.

I am not familiar with Tappan Appliances but the last time I replaced a timer on my dryer the timer fit several models from different makers and had the same connectors. Thats a clue that the timer is a very generic part.

You should search for general dryer timer diagnosis steps. For most dryers you can test the timer by checking for resistance or the flow of current between pins with the dryer disconnected from the mains. The steps will have you check for resistance with the timer in various positions. You are checking to see if the timer is turning the right circuits on and off when it is supposed to. If the timer is OK but the circuit is not coming on then it is a problem with another component on that circuit . If you can find a guide for your brand of dryer that is best, however any guide should give you an idea of what the timer does. At each position it turns a circuit on or off to control the heater or motor of the dryer.

Some mechanical timers may just get dirty. I think this is a possibility in your case. Taking the timer out of the dryer and looking for burned contacts or mechanical jams might spot the problem. Since your timer is buzzing it could simply be stuck, the buzzing might be the timer motor trying to turn a jammed connection.

Nearly all dryers are fixable. They are a very simple product with a few simple circuits. You do need to exercise some caution. The circuits are simple but they do control powerful heating elements and motors and use higher current and higher voltage.

I hope this general answer helps you identify and solve your problem. Be confident that you can fix this!


What is the best way to build up attic framing? I need to build up my attic framing for three reasons, but first, I can think of two ways in which to do this.

The Methods

Method 1

Put new framing on top of the original framing along the existing joists.

I would be stacking the new joists directly on top of the old joists. In theory, this should make them similar to 2x8s (I know this isn't quite true, and I have the beam theory to prove it).

Method 2

Put new framing on top of the original framing against the existing joists.

I would be stacking the new joists across the tops of the old joists. In theory, I've made a lattice structure of sorts.

The Uses

Insulation

I am going to lay 2x4 fiberglass insulation in the original joist bays, but that only gets me ~R-13, and the guideline for my region is >R-30. Blown-in is not an option I am considering, by the way. I've heard that laying rolls/batts perpendicular to each other when stacking them is the appropriate method, so method 2 seems to make sense for this application.

Flooring

Right now, when I need to do work in my attic I need to tiptoe along the tops of the joists. There is no flooring of any kind. I want to fix that situation by laying down some OSB (in some places, at least). I don't think the method I use will affect this, but there is one double-wide joist bay (there's a wall under it but no joist) so I need to add some perpendicular reinforcement there anyway, so method 2 seems to make sense again.

Reinforcement

I am adding some cabinets that need to hang from the ceiling as sit quite far from any walls. I expect the cabinets and contents to weigh ~400lbs, and I don't doubt the existing joists could take the load (they have a 160" span), but I'd rather reinforce the framing. I had considered sistering joists where the cabinets would be mounted (method 0, not shown), but I think methods 1 and 2 effectively supersede sistering. Method 1 will increase the effective joist stiffness and strength while method 2 will distribute the load across multiple joists. I'm not sure which is better in this case.

Method 1 and Method 2 do NOT strengthen the existing joist. They merely add “dead weight”.


Wiring- Simple for you Ok I have 2 switches right next to each-other on the box. One does the light in the fan/light combo, and lights above my my medicine cabinets. The other, JUST does the fan. Im tired of people taking showers without use the exhaust fan, so to skip all of the pleading and asking politely, I figured I'd just make one switch do everything. There could possibly be 2 power sources im being told, and something about just cap off the neutral from the switch that is no longer going to be used, and just match up the black and red from there to the switch that will be the only one working. Im not entirely confident in my skills but I know how to NOT kill myself. Just a simple diagram showing either scenario would be greatly appreciated.

How about dropping the cover at the top of the fan and if the neutrals are all connected together (suggesting a single supply)
- disconnect the fan wire from whatever it's connected to and reconnect to whatever the lamp is connected to.
- Cap off the wire(s) you disconnected from the fan wire.
now turning on the light will turn on the fan.


How do you rough in lighting for drop ceilings? I have a basement office that I intend to put a drop ceiling in. I was also planning to use the can lights that rest on the drop ceiling track itself rather than between the floor joists above. How would I rough in these can lights in this scenario since the drop ceiling supports won't exist until after drywall is up? Also, are there better alternatives for lighting?

Not an electrician.
My first thought would be to do the rough in by putting an electrical box on the actual ceiling.  In this box wire your conventional wire to a short length of romex.  The romex then is wired to your fixture when you hang the drop ceiling.
I don't think conduit would be required for the supply to these boxes, but it's not covered in my "Alberta Electrical Code Simplified" Doing a quick google finds that NM is fine for above suspended ceilings.  What is frowned upon is running the wire just on top of the support tracks.
My thought is that romex is more tolerant of being bent, and since you can't guarantee it be secured within 1 foot of the fixture, whatever you put in should tolerate bending.
I also know that when fiddling around with hanging ceiling you bump tiles into things.


Ducts Spray Foam vs. Wrapping I'm having some condensation issues with ducts in my basement.  Based on what I've read, it sounds like I have to get a dehumidifier and wrap the ducts.

I've wrapped a few, but it's hard to get the seal really tight the way I'd like it.

I was going to have them wrapped professionally.  But someone suggested that I could have them covered in closed cell foam to make a tighter seal.  Which do you think is better?

Covered in foam would be a better seal and offer insulation (minor) and sound deadening for air traveling through the duct.  It would also probably cost your first born child depending on the company, their quality, the size and access of ducts, etc.  There is duct mastic that may work better for some areas, smears around like bondo.  Maybe explain your condensation issue more in depth?  That sounds odd depending on your climate and the setup.


Can flow rate (or pressure) at the end increase if the diameter of pipe increased and then gradually reduced along the way? We have a water tank that's just 6.5 - 7 ft above ground level. The length of the pipe from water tank to sink tap would be around 25 ft. Output from water tank is an 1.5 inch pipe which then reduced to 1 inch pipe after 5 ft. Then the remaining 20 ft (1 inch pipe) is connected to sink tap which then finally reduced to 0.5 inch as per sink tap size. Sink tap is 3 ft above ground level. Due to the lower tank height and thus lesser gravitational pressure (???), the flow rate (also pressure ?) in the sink tap is not optimal (or I could say it's bit below usual flow rate). So plumber is considering following strategies to increase the flow rate (pressure ?) at the sink tap.

Increase the tank height further 3 ft (10 ft above ground level)

Starting 10 ft length would be covered by 1.5 inch pipe

Reduce from 1.5 inch to 1.25 inch after 10 ft

Next 10 ft length would be covered by 1.25 inch pipe

Reduce from 1.25 inch to 1 inch after that

Remaining 5 ft length would be covered by 1 inch pipe

Finally the 1 inch pipe is reduced to 0.5 inch at the sink tap connection

Obviously increasing the tank height would increase the flow rate (due to increased pressure), but does gradually reducing the pipe size (3 times) along the way increases the flow rate (pressure ?) at the end (sink tap) than what it was before?

Reducing the pipe diameter progressively would not increase the pressure nor flow rate at the tap. The idea is based on a nozzle at the end of a hose giving rise to a high speed jet of water. The nozzle actually reduces the flow rate (volume/time) through the hose and so increases the pressure just before the nozzle. This gives a higher velocity stream but lower flow rate. I assume what you want is a higher flow rate from your faucet.
Notice: I think I am right on my claim in the above, but frankly I am not sure. See edit below*.
You would get a higher flow rate from the faucet if you remove (unscrew) the aerator on the end of the faucet. This is a flow restrictor. Increasing the head would also increase pressure and flow rate.
*EDIT
The most basic formula for laminar (smooth) flow of water in a circular cross section pipe is Poiseuille's equation. To paraphrase, this states that the volume flow rate for an incompressible fluid is equal to the applied pressure times the cross sectional area of the pipe divided by (the length of the pipe times viscosity times 8). This means that progressively decreasing the diameter of the pipe would decrease flow and not increase it.


Fence gate sagging. Post twisting. Any ideas on how to solve this? I build a fence a few months ago in the winter and over time I have observed the post that holds my fence gate (5.5ft) started to twist. At the same time, the door when I installed it, it was straight, whereas now it has been settling. In fact, I have already cut some of the bottom pickets but it still is acting up.

Now I am not sure if I should cut the pickets anymore fearing that it may settle even more. I used for my gate this kit (https://www.lowes.com/pd/homax-easygate-15-7-10-in-steel-painted-gate-hardware-kit/1000194567?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--hdw--google--lia--145--gatehardware--1000194567-_-0&kpid&store_code=1631&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WRg72rTfg_y4xwj0HBrKFdjMqxdUz9VZHcobUtaoX6n1tTTJI_CWCgaAlItEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) so in theory I should not be seeing any sagging and honestly the frame looks square.

Has anyone had similar experience with this and how I can remedy the situation without needing to pull the post out and place a new one (since the issue may happen again if I am missing something). I don't mind the sagging too much as long as it is structurally okay but I mind if I see the door sagging even more.

enter image description here

I am not sure what the cause of your post twisting is, although it doesn't look twisted in the picture. If you didn't cement the post in using postcrete or other quick drying cement, the soil packed around it can settle allowing the post to twist.
As for the gate sagging, it seems from the photo that you have not adequately braced the gate, so it will continue to sag more in time.  It may look square at first glance but to me there is a slight crookedness (look at the distances between the top left of the gate to the top frame, and the top right of the gate to the top frame).
Adding diagonal bracing will prevent the weight of the gate pulling down on the horizontal bracing at the part furthest from the hinges.  I would take the gate down, re-square it if aesthetically it would look better, and add diagonal bracing. Brace the top edge furthest from the hinges to the bottom of the hinged side using wood.  (In the photo of the bracing you have here, brace from top left to bottom right).
Downward forces furthest from the hinges will then be transferred to the bottom of the hinged part of the gate.
You could use wire but if you do, it won't be as strong on the bracing and the diagonal would need to be in the opposite direction.
The only thing is you said you trimmed the picket bottoms so if you re-square the gate it could look slightly crooked at the bottom, but that is much less noticeable and the gate won't sag any further.
Edit after further thought
Thinking about the size of the gate, which by the photos I would guess is a 1.8m (6ft) high gate, using wire for diagonal bracing may not be adequate and considering the weight of the downward forces which will be there, using wire would put a huge amount of strain on the top hinge which isn't that big looking at the photo.
I would use wood bracing in the manner described above.  It will not be as strenuous on the bottom hinge, and it will also lower the strain on the top hinge.


Can I move the electric breaker panel a little, and put in smaller closet? I have a 1950s ranch with open plan, on concrete foundation. One side of the galley kitchen is freestanding (walls don't go to ceiling), and at the end of it is a "closet" containing a sub-panel. This closet is really a pantry...I have to move many things to gain access to panel. Want to convert into a semi-island, by spinning the panel 180 degrees and build a little broom closet around it, to run flush with the edge of counter top. I've read in other threads that the space for a panel needs to be 30" x 36" at minimum, which is much too big, and bigger than the current 24 x 24 it's in now.

Given the limitations of foundation and space, any chance I can play loose with code/standards and make the closet ~ 18" W X 14" D ?

Do I have to put it in a closet at all? Could I put it on a wall instead, maybe hang a picture over it to hide it? The other panel is on a bedroom wall (not in closet).

Based on all helpful comments received, here's how I could proceed:
1. Flip the panel 180 so it's on the "outside" wall.
2. 18-24 inches from the corner of outside wall, bump out 8-12 inches to allow for refrigerator being flush with face of galley, and run the island counter top flush with the bump.
3. Extend bumped area below the panel for a more finished look. (UNLESS CODE DICTATES OTHERWISE, in which case the notched area would extend all the way to the floor)???

I have ideas on how to pretty up the panel area by boxing it in with wood that's hinged around the corner, so when open it's flush to panel wall, allowing for the required work space...but that's another topic.

You cannot do what you propose. This would create a new installation that would have to meet current code. As you describe this would not even be close to making the clearances.

You can however flip the panel around 180 deg where it is now and cover it with a picture or something else that is temporary. You could even simply paint the cover the same as the wall so it may blend in better.


Can I suspend garage storage from the ceiling alone? I am planning to build garage overhead storage using 2x4 similar to this.

My questions are:

Do they need to have one side support from side wall or can I have them both side attached to ceiling
What kind of screw should I use to connect lumber to lumber, for ceiling one I be using 1/4 3 inches lag

Can I suspend both sides to the ceiling?
Yes, if:

Your ceiling is capable of supporting the weight. You're typically dealing with 2x4 truss chords, but I have no idea what your situation is. I'd consider laying a sturdy crossbar across several ceiling joists to distribute weight, and fasten your uprights to that.
You fasten properly. Don't rely on bolt pullout strength unless you size them adequately. If using the 1/4" lags you mentioned, they should be installed horizontally, tying your uprights to the crossbar or ceiling joists. This places the load in shear rather than tension. If you must install screws vertically, use 7/16" or 1/2" lags, piloted properly, and with adequate penetration.
You don't need the stability that wall attachment provides. If you're not tossing heavy objects up there regularly, where movement is a concern, this shouldn't be a problem.

What fasteners should I use?
Again, that depends on your design. I used nothing but 2-1/2" gold construction screws for my full-length racks, but I only use them in shear and I use multiples where needed. 1/4" lags are a good idea.


Is 11 - 12 inches of overhang on a shelf too much? I've got a couple of shelves that were manufactured to 120cm in length, which is slightly less than 48" (47.25").  Unfortunately, I discovered that the desired location has stud spacing of 24" rather than 16".  This means that if I hang the shelf using two brackets placed on the studs, I'm going to have an overhang of around 11.625" on either side.
Is that too much overhang?  Would it be better to use drywall anchors to space one or both (or more?) of the brackets out farther?
The recommendations I've found online vary as to how much overhang is safe, most suggesting no more than 6" but I've also seen 12". My gut feeling is it would be ok as long as I didn't put heavy objects on the ends of the shelves, but as a DIY noob I don't trust my gut.
Edit:  The shelves are 1" particle board and weigh 10 pounds.  They will be used for a reasonably light load - display objects, small potted plants and a few books.

As long as you don't heavily load the shelf you should be fine. Make sure that you hit the studs when you install the shelf brackets. The brackets should have a load rating on them. Use properly sized screws and balance the load across the shelf placing heavier items above or between the brackets. If you get some flex in the shelf at the center you can always add a middle bracket using properly sized hollow-wall anchors.


Ridge Vents vs Gable Vents Energy Savings as a Percentage or $ Figure I am having a new roof installed and there is an additional item Ridge Vents that I can add to the home - I currently have Gable Vents - no sofits.

I understand that the gables need to be blocked and Sofits added so that there is no short circuiting of air flow directly from gable to ridge.

My issue is this: After searching online for a comparison of energy savings - I get this
"Ridge Vents are better and more efficient"
Ok I would like to think so as well but I am having a difficult time with that statement.
1: Where are the facts and figures to prove out the efficiency and the savings ?

So here is my question does anybody have any figures , any calculations , any website links for an Actual Comparison of Energy Costs Ridge vs Gables - all things being equal .. same location (neighbors if you will , same cookie cutter suburbian dwelling..).

I am looking for real facts and figures - not um I think so's or seems liek it should be's ..

Any help is greatly appreciated ..

Neither is necessarily more or less efficient. Attic ventilation is a calculation of cubic inches of airflow, taking into consideration soffit venting and outflow.

There are lots of online calculators to determine this. Here's a link to the first one I found, from GAF:

https://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/Products/Roof_Vents/Ventilation_Calculator

Depending on your area, ridgevents have just become a go-to for ease of figuring. That doesn't make it right, but it isn't necessarily wrong either. Down south where I live, you can't vent your roof too much. Up north, where heat retention may be an issue, proper venting may assist your attic insulation.


Why do I have multiple connections on a single common connection? I'm in the process of trying to add a smart relays to my light switches across the house.
In most cases I've managed fine and I understand how the circuit works, to me that is critical before I make any changes.

In one case, the bathroom, i'm struggling to understand what's going on.
I've attached a picture of the existing setup below. The main question I have is why are there 2 connections out of common so I can understand what impact adding to this circuit will have.

For reference, the left hand side currently controls 3 downlights. The right hand side controls an extractor fan within the bathroom (which can stay powered on after the switch is turned off if the humidity is high).
The extractor fan also has an isolating switch separate from this double gang switch, could this be something to do with it?

Right hand side is the standard neutral block. Colours are accurate for UK wiring.

The wiring in the switch box isn't only for the switches.  It is also carrying supply power onward to other points of use.  That is the reason for the extra wires coming off COM.

This would be easier to understand if the 3 brown wires you drew terminated in a block just like the neutrals, and then 2 pigtails from the block went on to feed the two switches on their COM side.

Pretend it's like that, or get blocks and pigtails and make it actually like that.


What species of wood floor do I have? We are refinishing our wood floor and want to make sure that we make the right choices. Initially, multiple people suggested that it's pine wood but now after sanding our flooring guy thinks it's maple but he doesn't seem entirely sure.

What type of wood is this?

Thanks!

Edit: The house was built in the 1880s and is in the Boston area. Not sure whether the floor was ever redone.

After sanding with high grit

Sorry, some stain test in the pic.

After sanding with low grit

Before Sanding

Poly will wear faster than a standard floor urethane product. Stain color is your preference. Any stain will work on any wood. If you want to compare stains on wood, visit a store with stains, they should have a sample chart with different wood species and show how the stain absorbes into each one. You will need to sand the floor completely with a floor sander before attempting this work.

More info on hardwoods used for flooring


Can you feed a sub panel from a timer for outside lights? I have a Intermatic  240v 30 amp timer and would like to feed a sub panel with (6) 120v 15 amp outlets for Christmas light

Yes you can, as there is nothing in code that would prevent you from having a timer on a sub panel.  If it located on the home or a attached garage you are not required to add additional grounding electrodes, just take a 4 wire feed (2 hots, neutral, and ground) to the sub, or, if you run the feed in metallic conduit, the conduit can be the ground. Neutral needs to be isolated from ground; most panels today already have this, don’t add the neutral to ground bonding screw (it is a green screw, usually shipped in a bag); if already installed (that or a jumper), remove it so the neutral is isolated as required by code.


remediate corroded fins on AC, if it possible - how? The fins on my external AC seem to be heavily corroded by misplaced canine excretions:

Two 50 lb male dogs, about 5 years worth of misplacment.

As is, the AC cools the house more than adequately, and we only run the AC a few days per year so we are not worried about the extra load on the system (or should we?).

Since the fins are on three sides, the dog-urine corrosion seems equivalent to not having 1/10th to 1/8th of the cooling capacity of the radiator.  Some of the corrosion is 100% in the sense that it seems it would just powder away down to the R22 pipe.

Cleaning away the corrosion will open up big passages from the outside to the inside, thereby reducing the fan driven air flow over the remaining good-condition fins, thereby reducing the cooling capacity of the radiator even further.  It'll be worse off than leaving it be.

Is there a way to revamp the corrosion area without opening pipes of this 10+ year unit?

Maybe clean away the corroded fins, then sister on finned 'half-pipes' on either side using an epoxy/adhesive/liquidmetal with good heat transfer properties?  Or instead of adhesive, zip-tie the half-pipes in place with a thermal paste in between the half-pipe and the existing R22 pipes?

Or maybe leave the corrosion alone, upgrade the fan to increase the air flow?  But we don't want to leave the corrosion in place if it is going eat away the R22 pipes more than it already might have done.

We only use the AC a few days per year, 100 hours per year at most, so short of regaining cooling capacity, it would be worth the effort if I could do something keep the corrosion from eating away at the R22 pipes themselves.

A non acid foaming coil cleaner is your best option at this point. Once the fins are gone the coils will still exchange some heat but not be very efficient. R22 is getting very expensive ( around $100 per pound) . Since the coils are damaged cleaning all 3 sides will help the system Cool possibly for a few more years. I would not try to add epoxy or other adhesives to the coil. Cleaning with a foaming cleaner and low pressure water (no pressure washers) just a garden hose may stop the corrosion and improve the condenser coil's heat exchange.


How to spray paint face-down surfaces? I'm watching this video on how to spray paint metal, and it's pretty good.

One thing I don't get though, is how to paint the surfaces that the objects are resting on? Do you simply have to wait for the paint to dry and then change the orientation of the piece to apply paint to the other sides? This seems like it would cause the paint to become uneven.

What's the best way to do it?

Painting all but the bottom side first is a valid approach.

However, I usually hang whatever I'm painting in such a way that I can paint all surfaces at the same time, especially if I need a continuous finish.


How do I install a 1st floor bathroom fan? My bathroom is on the first floor with a finished bedroom directly above and an unfinished basement directly below. It would appear to be easier to install a wall or floor fan and direct exhaust down and then out through basement wall (just above ground). I have read that moist air naturally rises so it is easier to vent up. However, are their any products to vent down?

The bathroom does have 2 external walls so it might also be possible to vent directly out through the wall. What are the drawbacks to that? How is that insulated?

Probably the best solution in your case it to directly vent out.  Since you have two external walls one of the walls will allow you to vent out of it.  You need to pick the one that runs perpendicular to your joists.

There is not much downside in venting out.  It is easier.  By venting up you are actually causing an opening in your house for hot air to escape - hot air rises, will push open vent cover, and release.  With a side vent you don't have those issues.  The only issue is directing the moisture away from your house but this depends on the type of exterior you have.

You will pick a place for your fan - by the shower, in-between two joists.  You will point fan vent towards wall that you can vent out of.  You will run duct from fan to wall.  Cut hole in wall slight bigger than duct (usually 4-6" in the US).  You will cap it from the outside with a vent and secure vent to outside wall.  Spray foam the openings/cracks created.  That part of your fan install is done.  Still need to get electric up to it.

To cover your other points.  You can vent out the basement but you should not have a fan anywhere other than a ceiling.  Anything higher than your fan will get condensation and could eventually mold.

Edit: Forgot to mention.  Give your duct work a tiny tiny slope down so any moisture will drip out instead of back to your bathroom.


Can I replace a single dedicated 20A/120V receptacle with a 20A/240V receptacle? I have a newly-installed, 20A/120V receptacle that is wired using 12/2 copper on a single home run back to my main electrical panel.  This was to support an air conditioning unit in a section of new construction on an existing house.  Unfortunately the air conditioner actually needs a 20A/240V receptacle.

My question is, can I simply replace the single-pole breaker with a 2-pole breaker, and the receptacle with the correct style (NEMA 6-20R)?

(Clarification: there is a separate 15A branch circuit to satisfy all code requirements for normal receptacles and one of those is on this wall, therefore changing this would not leave me without the required amount of normal receptacles)

Yes, this will work. In the panel you'll need to remove the white wire from the neutral bar, mark it with black tape to show it will be always hot and hook it to the two pole breaker along with the black wire. You'll also need to mark the white wire at the outlet box with some black tape.


Figure out what outlets belong to what breakers So I live in a dorm room at a college, and I am looking into getting 2 1050w ASIC miners for mining Litecoin.
My issue is, that as far as I know, you can't pull +/-3000 watts from one breaker. (2 miners = 1050w, + desktop computer 500w, + laptop 300w+ fan/chargers/etc) (I live in Canada btw, so you know what electrical standards we use)
I am trying to see if there is a way to figure out what outlets are hooked to different breakers. I know there are devices that allow you to send a signal to the breaker, but I don't have access to the breaker, so I'm hoping there's a device where I can plug it into one outlet, and check all the other outlets to see if the signal is coming through.
As far as I know, in our dorm we would have multiple breakers, so I'm trying to figure out where they are, so I can distribute the power usage between them. I'm assuming there is a separate breaker for the kitchen, bedroom #1 and bedroom #2.
Anyone know of a device that will help me figure this out? Thanks.

The only answer here is to contact your Facilities Department and ask them.

Your whole idea of throwing big loads into a building on a "rogue" basis is only going to result in breaker trips. And since you can't reset a breaker, you'll end up talking to Facilities anyway, or they may end up having a talk with you.  I know the child's impulse is to sneak until he can't... but when you're adulting, it's better to get out ahead of it and intercept the objection before it becomes one.

Power supply

Your 1050W unit is a DC figure, it will need a power supply (PSU).  That is not 100% efficient.  Some brag 89% efficient, and 94% power factor, and if that's true that means 1255 VA of actual draw.

This is a continuous load.  That means when provisiong (planning) power to the device, you must derate it by 125%, or 1570 VA.   Normal 120V/15A circuits have 1800 VA available, and one ASIC will totally dominate it with only 230W available for maybe a small console screen.   Larger 120V/20A circuits, sometimes reveaked by the T-shaped neutral socket, have 2400 VA to give, so they also can support one ASIC, and 830 VA of other stuff will fit.  VA is a unit very similar to watts.

You will not find an 850 watt air conditioner.  This will require a third circuit.  You have not stated any plan to remove 2510 watts of heat energy from a dorm room, and that is a fatal flaw.

Colleges do not like miners.  The reason is mainly the excessive power used.  When dorms proffer "free electricity" they only mean for incidental use for normal student needs.  They do not mean for you to use it as the primary resource input into a side business that profits yourself - and everyone knows the coin-mining game is All About the cost of electricity. So yes, you are definitely violating campus rules against exploiting university assets for personal gain.

It's different if you're running an ebay business and use the power to run the heat shrink gun 30 seconds a day.  An eBay business doesn't have electricity as its primary resource input.

You're using a VPN and the traffic is low.  How does their incompetent IT department catch you?  Easier than you think.  Someone from the Facilities Dept. comes out at 5 am and aims a FLIR at the side of the building.  The dorm rooms where power is being overused light up cherry red.  They can do the same by aiming the FLIR at the service panel, the high-current breakers will light up warmer than all the rest.  It's not rocket science.


Can i fix or run my 110V pedestal fan on 220V? I have an old table-fan that I bought years ago and was rated for 110V. During the checkout process, it the option of choosing 110V or 220V and I made the mistake of choosing 110V. I haven't been able to use it and it's been collecting dust and I thought I'd get it running so I opened it up.

Inside I found a the motor that was connected to a 300VAC 3uF capacitor and it was also connected to a three-speed selector which to was rated for 300V. All the wires inside the fan are also rated for 300V.

The only thing that doesn't seem to be rated for the 220V is the fuse in the plug. There's a fuse that reads, 110V 5A.

I don't know much about electronics but I've been doing research on this. What I've found is that since it has a capacitor, it isn't a three phase motor.

I'm scared of plugging this into 220V and starting a fire. Is there a way I can check (and run) this table-fan at 220V? I've also read that that motors can be rewired to be run on 220V.

I'm really wondering if they actually do use different motors for the 110V and 220V version or is the motor in both versions the same with the only difference being the fuse and the capacitor.

Don't do it. Plugging the fan into 220V will draw twice the current and result in 4 times the power delivered to the motor, so it will spin like crazy. There is risk of overheating, fire, fan blades dislodging and bearings overheating.

In some cases the motor can be rewired for a different voltage but it takes a fair bit of experience and knowledge to do this correctly. It's also unlikely that a simple fan motor will support this, so it's definitely not worth taking the risk.

I would recommend taking the loss and properly disposing of the fan. Properly disposing includes making sure no one else accidentally plugs it in. So please don't give it away or resell it unless you are absolutely sure that the recipient knows what he/she is doing. I know it's a bit painful, but it's the right thing to do.


Paint peeled off with wall border sticker Yesterday I tried removing a (childish) wall border sticker from my wall.
I used steam from a kettle to try and melt the glue, but it didn't work for some places.
Is there a simple fix for this, or do I need to paint the whole wall all over again?
Thanks!

If this were my wall I would:

Scrape off all loose paint.
Sand area with sanding block - heavy grit.
Feather in joint compound.  Do another coat.
Sand area until flat.
Prime beyond damaged area.
Repaint.


Proper header size for a 10 foot span, non load-bearing wall I am wanting to add a divider wall in my garage to separate a work space from the parking area. I got a great deal on a 10 foot wide by 7 foot tall roll-up door. I framed my basement when finishing it, but nothing this wide. All documentation I have found on header sizing refers to load-bearing walls. This one will be self-sufficient and attached to existing walls and the existing ceiling. Any advice on how large the header need to be and how many jack studs?

You don't need a header, except to provide a "space" for your new overhead door to roll-up into. A header is to hold something "up". This is non-bearing, so you could use studs to create the space down from the roof (or ceiling) for the roll-up door to roll-up into. The load that you need to resist is the horizontal force on the "wall" above the new door. I'd use a double 2x6 laid flat at the head of the opening. (The door is not supported by the "header" either.)

I'd use 2-2x4 "jack studs"...just for stiffness on each side of the opening. (Technically, I guess they're not "jack studs".)


Use of 8AWG Cu in 1"ID grey PVC buried for 120' on 50 amp circuit A 50amp 240volt breaker in an outside panel that also feeds 200amps to the house goes to a sub-panel 120' of run away in a shed using 8-3 interior clad cable (Romex? NM? whatever the term) inside of 1" ID grey PVC conduit. Other than some off-the-cuff comments that I've found here, I'm looking for something more authoritative if this is okay or needs to be ripped out and replaced at any cost. Thanks.

Note: All block quotes are sections from NFPA-70:2014 (aka 2014 NEC)
1st problem: 8 awg NM can only carry a max of 40 amps
NM is treated as a cable assembly with 60°C conductors per 334.80 even though the individual conductors are typically rated at 90°C:

334.80 Ampacity. The ampacity of Types NM, NMC, and NMS cable shall be determined in accordance with 310.15. The allowable ampacity
shall not exceed that of a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor. The 90°C
(194°F) rating shall be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustment
and correction calculations, provided the final derated ampacity does
not exceed that of a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor. The ampacity of
Types NM, NMC, and NMS cable installed in cable tray shall be
determined in accordance with
392.80(A).

This means that the max 8 awg NM cable can carry is 40 amps per table 310.15(B)(16)

2nd problem: NM cannot be used underground
The underground conduit is a wet location per 300.5(B) and NM cable is prohibited to be used in "wet or damp locations" by 334.12(B)(4)

300.5(B) Wet Locations. The interior of enclosures or raceways installed underground shall be considered to be
a wet location. Insulated conductors and cables installed in these
enclosures or raceways in underground installations shall be listed
for use in wet locations and shall comply with 310.10(C). Any
connections or splices in an underground installation shall be
approved for wet locations.
334.12(B) Types NM and NMS. Types NM and NMS cables shall not be used under
the following conditions or in the following locations:
(4) In wet or damp locations

3rd Problem: A run of 120' may have too much of a voltage drop for 8 awg conductors feeding 50 amps
Depending on the length of the branch circuits fed by the subpanel, even if the 8 awg conductor is rated for the highest allowable ampacity like THWN-2, the voltage drop may exceed 5% at the end of one or more circuits over a 120' length. This problem is not strictly a code violation to my knowledge since it is not a safety hazard (it comes from NEC guidance in the form of an informational note in 210.19(A) quoted below), but rather can adversely impact the performance of tools/appliances fed by the circuits with such a large voltage drop. For this reason, I would strongly recommend upsizing the conductors to at least 6 awg THWN with a 50A breaker or upgrade to 8 awg THWN and downsize to a 40A breaker if 40A suits your needs for this subpanel.

210.19 Conductors — Minimum Ampacity and Size.
(A) Branch Circuits Not More Than 600 Volts.
Informational Note No. 4: Conductors for branch circuits as defined in Article 100, sized to prevent a voltage drop
exceeding 3 percent at the farthest outlet of power, heating, and
lighting loads, or combinations of such loads, and where the maximum
total voltage drop on both feeders and branch circuits to the farthest
outlet does not exceed 5 percent, provide reasonable efficiency of
operation. See Informational Note No. 2 of 215.2(A)(4) for voltage
drop on feeder conductors.

TL;DR
There are several code violations and code is primarily developed to ensure safety. You may also notice suboptimal performance from whatever devices are hooked up to the outlets fed by this subpanel if you draw more than 40 A from the subpanel. It also seems like this work was done by someone who is unfamiliar with code; I wouldn't be surprised if there are other less obvious code violations and safety hazards. I would recommend calling in an electrician to rework this subpanel installation to meet your needs for it according code. I would also recommend calling in someone to inspect the other visible portions of the wiring (junction boxes/outlets) after the subpanel.