NEC 14 wiring a remote / unfinished / garage with 120/240 circuits I have read the answers related to "how-to install code compliant" questions for wiring a remote/unfinished garage.  The answers all are based upon earlier dated NEC code books.

Has anything substantively changed under the bureaucratic umbrella the NEC 2014 code regs impose?

THANK YOU FOR IMPROVING FOCUS OF MY APPROACH...(Some light background)

On a rural parcel, I am building a 40x40 concrete slab ag barn that by county local code doesn't require NEC 2014 compliance inspection outside of the plumbing & electrical systems.
By site plan efficiency, one corner of that slab is closest (+/- 100') from  the Power Company's main power disconnect, and, therefore where I intend to set my 100 amp sub-panel for all barn circuits to home run to.
That same corner of the barn is also only 40' from the septic system inlet so the toilet & the handsink I intend for the barn to have are logically wanting to be adjacently built/located.

1ST EDIT TO MY QUESTION:

If I locate the 100amp subpanel on that corner with inside of building access only, (read from the 5" higher concrete slab), is it code permissible I locate/build the other 3 walls of the bathroom lower/off the slab?  If it's floor is lower, but the bathroom would share a common wall with the subpanel,...does that construct bust any NEC 2014 insall/trade codes?

2ND EDIT/RESPONSES TO THE QUESTION & GENERATED COMMENTS:

We domicile on 45 acres on the plains E of Colorado Spgs.  I prior was 24 years a licensed B-2 GC in Nevada.  We separately have an active building permit with the regional building dept for work unrelated to my question.  Right or wrong, we have 2 consumer entitlement found under our local municipal.  1ST) As long as it's inspected & passes relevant UBC code, for every trade, by county/regional code only, it's permissible for the homeowner to do all of the work.

2ND)  Any structure being constructed for the use benefit of agriculture (RURAL BUILD LOCATIONS ONLY) isn't required to present itself for absolutely any inspections, so long as no electrical or plumbing phases are included in the build effort.

If any of/either electrical or plumbing phases are included in the Ag Building construct, they have to be installed up to the code that the prevailing municipality currently uses.  In Colo Springs, that's NEC 2014.

Because no CO is ever issued without everything being built/inspected/passed to the published UBC industry standard, the plumbing/electrical issues relevant to health & life safety are protected while not denying motivated "pudknockers" from doing their own work.

My barn/shop falls under such a qualified use entitlement exclusion.  I called/asked the electrical inspector for an informational site visit vis-a-vis the ag build exclusion with both electrical & plumbing phases present in the effort.  He said "I don't have the time to spoon feed you the code" & suggested that I google NEC 2014 code as it's applied to a "remote unfinished garage" and that's how I landed upon this forum's doorstep.

I've learned from each of those who generously responded here.  Thanks to one & all.  I'm indebted to this community & will try to give back appropriately.

Short answer is: Yes, some things have changed.
The exact language from the 2014 National Electrical Code:

(G) Basements, Garages, and Accessory Buildings. For a one-family dwelling, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed in the areas specified in 210.s2(G)(1) through (3). These receptacles shall be in addition to receptacles re- quired for specific equipment.
(1) Garages. In each attached garage and in each detached garage with electric power. The branch circuit supplying this receptacle(s) shall not supply outlets outside of the garage. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed for each car space.

Edit: The paraphrased language I posted before was from a municipal licensing agency and was not the exact language. As pointed out, their language was somewhat misleading. The actual Code language clarifies that "The branch circuit supplying this receptacle(s) shall not supply outlets outside of the garage."
Here is a more wordy explanation.
To answer your edited question, no there is nothing in the Code preventing you from installing a panel close to a bathroom but you cannot locate the panel in the bathroom. The level of the floor is immaterial to the Code. If it fits the definition of a bathroom in the Code then you can't put a panel in that room or area.
Good luck and stay safe!


Can I paint part of a wall in a seamless way a couple years after? A couple years ago, I painted the walls of my appartment, but I was afraid to break the thermostat if I tried to remove it, so I painted around it.
However, I have decided to change my thermostat, for home automation purposes, and guess what, it's smaller...
Given that:

The paint is still sold
It is a color mix (done by the supplier, according to specs, but there may be some variability?)

Is there any chance I can paint just the bit I missed, or will it be so obvious that I am better of painting the entire wall?

Thanks,

If you have any of the paint left from before, just use that. There may be some very slight differences, but they likely won't be noticeable on such a small area.

If you don't have any leftover paint, you can take a small sample from the current wall and have a paint store match it. Matching is very accurate and will produce results that are indistinguishable from the rest of the wall. The downside is this may be the most expensive, as some stores won't sell a matched color in any of their product lines, nor in any size. I just had this done at Sherwin Williams, and had to get a quart of Duration, for ~$25, to cover a square foot of wall. The color was perfect, but certainly not cheap.

Or, if you know the color and sheen used, just get a small can of it. There's more likelihood of there being slight differences due to the different calibrations of the tinting machines, but those should be very slight.

On all cases, feather the new paint onto the old painted surface. Your area is so small, though, that you provably doubt need to feather much.


What's the best soundproofing solution to rubber coming off of double-paned transom windows? Rubber between the two window panes are coming off of our double paned transom windows. Does the rubber have soundproofing capabilities? We live on a very busy street and are also looking for ways to soundproof. If so, what would be the best resolution?
Your feedback will be greatly appreciated.

The "rubber" falling out could be weatherstripping but is most likely the window gasket.

Example above is just one type, not your type.   But the gasket locks the window into the grooves around the wood.   The provides weather tightness with some very mild sound absorption abilities.
The fact that these windows look to be under an underhang means that the rain probably won't get through, bad gasket or not.   So for now it is aesthetics and slight insulation.
To replace these you might as well have a window or glass company come out and do the repair on site or to get brand new frames/windows.   Either way there will need to be some disassembling of the trim/window.
You could bypass that by gluing weatherstripping around the window frame and if you can get a slim band to look good - that could easily work for the short term.    More of a craft project.
Any sound issues you have, have almost zero to do with this.


Central heating drain valve won't shut Today I drained my central heating/hot water system. This is a standard vented, pumped S plan with two electric valves and an indirect hot water cylinder, and I'm in UK.

I was lucky enough to have a drain valve underneath ground floor, relatively accessible, see pics:

So I opened it and was able to drain: good!
However, upon refilling the system, I found out that that valve will rotate endlessly, and won't guarantee proper isolation: it's stripped.

I was thinking to add an isolating (aka service) valve past the old one, i.e., along the pipe in the bottom part of the images.

Something like this:

Do you think that will work? Or is there a risk that the old valve will leak when the new one is shut? Do you foresee any other possible problem?

Any feedback welcome!

Thanks!

Adding one of those isolators is a good plan.

I used to put one inline with every tap as they are cheap and make subsequent maintenance easy - less draining of the whole system.


Should I buy or hack a 240v remote controlled thermostat? I'd like to buy/easily create a thermostat that remotely controls a 240v / 10A switch.  At a minimum the switch should be on when it's hot, and the threshold should be configurable. Digital temperature settings and inverted on/off a bonus!

The usage is to control a an electric heater that normally plugs into the wall and has a built-in thermostat. By plugging into the remote controlled switch and setting the built in thermostat to max, the heater will respond to the ambient temperature at the remote thermostat which I'm hoping will be more stable than the local temperature in the heater casing.

240V thermostats (of 10A capacity or usually greater) are easily bought off the shelf - they are commonly used to control electric baseboard heat from a wall-mount box. You could mount one in a freestanding box if you want this "portable" as well, or you could wall-mount one and have it control a (labeled) outlet that the heater would plug into.

While you could also use any thermostat and a relay with a suitable coil voltage for the thermostat, that's just more parts and complexity for a problem that there's a one-peice solution to, commonly available.


Pot lights not working I have an issue with my recessed light fixtures.
The problem is that the all quit working but one of them. It is not the bulbs we changed out the bulbs the switch is on because one of the lights works. It is not the first one ( not the closest to the switch) in the group that is working either.
They did not quit working at the same time either.
We have the same type of fixtures in a different room that was installed at the same time and they all work (different circuit).
Thanks SDF

Each can was pig-tailed as the connections were made up. Since they failed individually, it seems that the individual wire that leads to the fixture's wiring came out of the wire nut that connects it to the incoming hot and the outgoing hot (at least at the earlier cans in the string), leaving the incoming/outgoing wiring sufficiently well connected to bring power to the one that still works.
Note that "sufficiently well connected" may still not be properly and safely connected, as the missing wire from the wire nut may mean that the nut is now loose and could allow for arcing which could start a fire.
In the box behind each can, there should be a hot (usually black), neutral (usually white) and ground (usually bare) (note: US wiring conventions, assuming cable, not conduit). At all cans except the last in the string, there will be a cable incoming from the previous can/breaker, a cable outgoing to the next can, and a set of wires that go to this can. It's likely that the "this can" wire has come out of the wire nut non-working ones prior to the working light, and that any/all of the nuts have come lose at the non-working lights downstream of the working one.
You, or your electrician, will have to pull each can and confirm that all the wiring is still properly connected.


How can I safely remove stick-on tiles that are on top of asbestos tiles? I have an issue when I started renovating my basement.  When I bought my house 3 years ago, the basement had 12" stick tiles through-out.  I removed a bar, a built in cabinet and a few other things and those stick tiles were never put down and now that particular tile is obsolete/not sold anymore.

I am thinking about "re"-sticky tiling the basement and want to pull up the newer sticky tiles and reapply over the old lower layer 9" ones they were applied on.  Since my house was building 1953, more than likely the lower layer tiles under the sticky tiles are Asbestos and I don't want to damage/crack/disturb them while pulling up the top tiles for obvious health reasons.

Is there a way to remove these stick tiles without disturbing/breaking/chipping the old asbestos ones?  A Chemical that dissolves the newer adhesive without messing with the asbestos tile adhesive?

Thanks,
Scott

There is no Do-It-Yourself asbestos abatement process that meets US construction industry standards for safety and the protection of air quality.

The only proper methods for renovating structures containing asbestos bearing building materials require removal and/or encapsulation by professionals experienced in the area.

There is no silver bullet in a can. Organic solvents are not that selective.


Can a curved shed roof design use corrugated metal roof panels lengthwise horizontally? I'm building an 8'x20' storage shed for the backyard.  I've done some woodworking, but I'm more comfortable with metalwork.  Instead of triangular roof trusses out of wood, I'm thinking about making smoothly curved arches with a tube roller.  The idea would be to lay corrugated metal roof panels lengthwise so that the "wavy" orientation bends around the curve and the stiff/"straight" orientation spans the length of the building.  Like a half cylinder, or a quonset hut.
Edit:  But it would not be entirely a quonset hut.  The shed will have traditional straight framed walls; my question/idea only concerns the roof i.e. top portion of the structure.
My question is whether it will be a problem that the corrugations on the apex of the arch will effectively form 20' long horizontal "channels" with no slope for rainwater?
(By the way, we rarely get snow where I live, and not much accumulation.  We do get ice storms every other year.  We have high winds, gusts 50+ mph, throughout every season, enough to scour anything laying on the roof off of it.)

Make one side wall slightly lower than the other. Water will flow off the low side.


What causes a water heater's relief valve to discharge water? I have a Gas Reliance Water Heater 1212. I found recently (in winter) there is a water dip through the relief valve into a 5 gallon bucket. Sometimes, it can fill the whole bucket. Sometimes, it has no water drip at all.

I can't find the reason why that happens. My two guesses are the usage of water or temperature in the basement. However, I have normal usage -- just laundry, or the dish washer. Nothing odd there. I checked the temperature, and it's sometimes hot, sometimes cold (I live in Pennsylvania). I can't find any pattern.

Can anyone help me on this?

There are three reasons a T&P valve opens. Temperature, pressure, or a faulty valve.
Temperature
If the water in the heater reaches a temperature of 210 degrees F, the T&P valve will open and release water until the water temperature is reduced. As water is removed through the T&P valve, cold water enters through the inlet and mixes with the water in the tank.  When enough water has been mixed to reduce the temperature, the T&P valve will close. If temperature causes the release, there will likely be a lot of water released.
Pressure
Most T&P valves are set to open at 150 psi. If the pressure in the tank reaches this level, the valve opens until the excess pressure is released. If pressure caused the release, you'll usually see about 1 cup of water per 10 gallons in the tank (per release).
Temperature or Pressure
To figure out if the trip is being caused by temperature or pressure, you'll have to monitor both.
Test water pressure?
To test water pressure, you'll need a pressure gauge.  They sell threaded gauges, that can attach to a standard hose bib. This will work well if you have laundry hookups.

Wait until the water heater is actively heating the water (you can expedite this step by using hot water, so go take a shower or something).
Connect the gauge to any hot water outlet, and open the tap.

Monitor the pressure through the end of the heating cycle. If you get a gauge with a "lazy hand", it will stay at the highest pressure achieved. That way you won't have to stand by and watch the gauge the whole time.
Test water temperature
To test the temperature, all you need is a thermometer.

Wait until the heater has just finished running.
Open the nearest hot water tap, and let it run for a minute of two.
Use the thermometer to measure the water temperature.

Causes and fixes
Without knowing more information about the installation, it's very difficult to speculate as to why this is happening.  Determining why the valve is opening (temperature, pressure, or some other reason), is the first step to diagnosing the problem.  Once you understand why the valve is opening, it will make it much easier to figure out the cause of the problem.


Should I use cement board or green board behind the walls of a neo angle shower? I purchased a neo angle shower and I am installing it on the second floor of my house.  I have the pan down and I am ready to drywall.  which is safer to use, cement board or green board behind the shower panels?

I would always use cement board in the shower area.  I would extend the cement board to where you shower unit will cover.  You can go past that point just plaster with a nice joint compound, like durabond to join to the rest of the plaster board for a permanent bond. I typically do not use green board unless you expect the wall can get wet, like a basement.  My bathroom is upstairs and my house would wash away before those walls got wet, therefore regular board is fine.


Bare wire says 120 but drops tall 1 when hooked to outlet 120 hot to neutral/hot to ground. Hook it to outlet, hot to neutral reads 1 hot to ground 120. Tried two new outlets. Both do same. Moment connected voltage is lost. Moment wire out, back to normal.

I might also mention two sets of wires. Not sure where other goes. If hook hot to that neutral 90v. Hot to live neutral, 19.

This is a classic sign of a bad connection. The neutral wire likely has a break, is loosely connected, or corroded or charred. You need to find the other end of the wire and inspect it.


Is there a wireless way to cut off the HVAC y wire from my generator transfer switch? I recently had a Generac Synergy generator installed, which went smoothly, however there was no good way to get the Y wire from my thermostat to the transfer switch and back in order to allow the transfer switch to cut the y wire signal.

It seems like this should be able to be done wireless as 24v DC is available in both the transfer switch and at the thermostat with some kind of a wireless relay, but I have had trouble identifying a suitable product, so I'm not sure if there may be some problem with my thought process.

Is there a good way to have a wireless transmitter in my transfer switch which can wireless cause a 24v relay to cut power on the y line either at my thermostat or at my AC unit?  If not, what are the problems such a system would encounter that prevent it from being reliable.

While such a thing as a wireless relay exists, it's mighty expensive compared to the simpler option, which'd be to run thermostat wire over to the transfer switch to carry the Y and switched-Y wires there, and use the existing relay contacts on the transfer switch control board.


What kind of floor covering is this? I saw this on the inside of a classroom and I'm curious as to what kind of flooring this is:

My guess (without being able to feel it) is vinyl sheet flooring, ugly pattern made to appear like crushed stone I guess...


Need to increase door height in bungalow I am in a  bungalow with the doors into the bathroom and 2 bedrooms all being different height. I'd like to increase the door height and shifting the header up seemed like a simple thing. however...this is what i found and i am not sure how to proceed... i was not expecting a double header. then again i know nothing about this. any thoughts are appreciated. not sure about load bearing

That's not a header, just a nailer. Some carpenters / builders like to use two so that the trim is easier to nail and looks better. You're fine removing one of them. Leave at least one though to nail the trim to after your done (moved or not)


Why would a patio heater slowly die out over time? I have a propane (not LP) patio heater similar to this one...

using a 20-lb. propane tank...

I have an issue where the flame will slowly die down over a period of time.  Let's say within 30 minutes it goes from full flame to something that barely stays lit.  When the flame gets tiny, you can hear the propane hissing through the lines like it's being restricted.

If I wait an hour, I can re-light it and it's full strength again for a while and within 30 minutes, the problem will repeat.

I've disassembled and cleaned it out a couple times but this problem continues.   The unit is never stored outside, however, I got it used and it's always had an issue staying lit.  I have not yet replaced the thermocouple because the previous owner claimed this was already done.

I'm looking for troubleshooting suggestions that will conclusively narrow down the source of the problem and/or cleaning tips.  The gas orifice at the pilot is too small for a pipe cleaner, but I've already tried solvents such as carb cleaner and it makes no difference.

The pilot is blue with an orange tip.  When first lit, the burner flames are blue, but as it dies down, the tips turn orange.

What I don't understand is why it performs great when it's first lit.  I'd think if this whole problem was caused by dirt, the flame would be restricted all the time.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

EDIT:

There seems to be a lot of confusion here.  This unit is 8 feet tall, 40,000 BTU, only uses a 20-lb PROPANE tank, and this problem is occurring in ambient temps in the upper 50's and higher.

EDIT 2 - fixed (11/2019):

As per nameplate on the heater-

40,000 BTU
11" W.C.

Tried out this $10 regulator from Amazon, which is rated for 11" W.C.  up to 80,000 BTU, just to see if it works, and it seems to have solved the issue.  I know it's been a while since asking the question, but I put this thing to the side as a low priority since I had no solid method for troubleshooting other than guessing and part-swapping.

Flame stays blue the entire time, and on low setting, the tips are orange.  The pilot flame is mostly orange now.  See photos below.  Not sure if that's normal, but the unit seems to be staying lit now and properly operational.  I have not fully tested it on colder days so I will update this if needed.  Tested in the 30's, and it still seems to work good.

Pilot:

Low:

High:

It sounds to me like a restriction at the regulator, not the control valve. You mentioned that the previous owner had done some work on it, make sure that he/she did not replace the regulator with one that does not deliver the design flow/pressure. In this case, adequate flow/pressure depends on proper regulator back pressure setting (they are rated in "inches of water" back pressure). If the regulator setting is too low, it will not deliver an adequate flow/pressure of gas.

If this is the case, the initial proper operation followed by diminishing performance is explained by the volume of gas in the 8' tall hose assembly, with a slow reduction in adequate volume being delivered by the undersized regulator. I had your exact problem when I attempted to swap out a leaky patio heater regulator with a BBQ regulator that had a different pressure setting.

Like this:

Regulator is initially open because of low (zero) downstream pressure.
8' tall hose fills with gas until rated back pressure downstream of regulator is reached, regulator closes.
You open control valve and light heater, regulator opens as downstream pressure drops.
Damaged, defective, clogged, or undersized regulator cannot supply enough gas to maintain proper flame height as pressure drops, but does stay open and deliver gas according to it's pressure setting, which is not enough for adequate flame propagation.

It's worth checking, anyway.


How to install a safety barrier-post in garage, between house and vehicle On the other side of the wall, in front of where my vehicle is parked, is my bedroom.

Would like to install something similar to what you would see at store fronts that have parking spaces near the entrance.

Usually looks like 4' high, round pole, that goes into the concrete, something like this.

Is this something that can be done by someone who has never done this but is handy?

...or what profession would do this work?

You can rent a core drill for under 200 dollars including the dimond bit. You would need to make a substantially larger diameter hole than the pipe because you need concrete around it, not just in it.

This is a picture of a very serious bollard

https://www.concreteconstruction.net/how-to/creating-a-bollard_o

If you are really worried about a teen driver or similar crashing into your bed, go with the example in the picture. A reasonable compromise with a fair amount of stopping power would be 2" pipe in a 6" hole at least a couple of feet deep. Most of the bolt down ones are just for show unless, you get some really serious anchors bolting down through a very thick peice of metal and deep into the concrete spread out on a large bolt pattern.


At what Lead levels are respirators and hazmat suits required? I am under going demolition work in pre-1978 building.  I have paint chip samples sent away to determine ppm of lead.  At what levels are contractors required to wear hazmat suits and respirators?

Is there some summary document that outlines the EPA guidelines?

The magic words you want are "RRP", the EPA Renovation, Repair and Painting rules.  For a simple residential demolition that's all you need.  For details see http://www2.epa.gov/lead/renovation-repair-and-painting-program

Homeowners can take the RRP certification course (I did), but in most cases you'll want to ask the contractor for their RRP certification number, and ensure that the certified renovator is on site during the work. Every certified renovator is also a certified trainer, authorized to train and supervise the workers at a particular job site.

The level of lead in the paint does not matter at all under RRP rules.  And the hazard depends not on the level of lead, but rather the work practices used.  Sanding without a HEPA vacuum, for example, can put a huge amount of lead in the air even if the paint is relatively benign.

Note the gold standard for lead testing is not paint chip analysis, but rather XRF testing.  By investing in XRF testing you'll identify areas of the demolition that don't have lead at all, and thus don't need all that plastic, tape and other waste generated.


Are there different thickness heads/nuts for hex bolts? The hex bolts in my local home depot (specifically the size 3/8-16) all have the same thickness of the hex head. It looks to me to be about 3/16 of an inch thick. I need to recess a hex screw inside an aluminum block and recess a corresponding bolt on the other size of the aluminum block so the male hex bolt sticks out and is secure. However, because of the large thickness of the hex bolt head plus the thickness of the hex nut, it would require me to use a very thick piece of aluminum. Do they make thinner hex bolt heads/nuts so I could use a thinner piece of aluminum for the base?

This is for a baseplate stand for a camera system in my home, 3/8-16 is the standard base screw for all tripods I will be working with. Thank you for the help.

You probably don't want to do that anyway! Think carefully of what your request would mean.

A 3/8-16 thread means that the width of the bolt is essentially 3/8 inch, but what matters here is the 16. That tells us the thread pitch is 16 threads per inch. The nut being about 3/16 inches thick means that the bolt and the nut mate on three threads. A thinner nut would have less thread contact, so less strength.

If you really need a thinner nut, then it will be easiest to use a smaller diameter bolt. They have finer threads, so the nuts are also correspondingly thinner. Of course, I don't know why it is that you have chosen a 3/8-16 bolt. You may also choose a different thread pitch for your bolt. The 3/8-16 thread pitch is the standard (coarse) thread that you will find in nearly all home stores. However a more diligent search will find bolts and nuts with a 3/8-24 or even a 3/8-32 thread. They may have nuts in a different thickness.


Is this old basement floor concrete, grout, or something else? What is the likely construction/material of the basement floor shown below?
It's not very flat, and the surface appears sandy. It's almost as if some kind of skim-coat was applied to the dirt floor. I've seen this type of basement floor frequently in old New England homes. What's it called? What's it made of? Is this technique still used today?

Note: answers such as "this floor appears to be partly made of water" are certainly accurate, but don't really get at what I'm looking for.

For sure it is a cementious material utilizing portland cement as binding agent. Anything more specific is speculative. If the uneven, raised surface in the background is covered with similar material, this is almost certainly "shotcrete" or "gunite". Pneumatically placed concrete, cement, or mortar. Based on the sandy surface, it was probably a dry mix placement, where dry material and water come out of the gun separately and are essentially "mixed" on impact with the supporting surface. Proper mixing of this method is largely dependent on the applicator's skill.

The other method is wet mix, where pre-mixed material is shot out of the gun. The quality of wet mix placement is more predictable. When done properly over rebar to proper thickness, shotcrete is just as strong as poured in place concrete. Therefore, the technique is still used, often to install tunnel liners and similar roadway works.

P.S. I actually lol'd at you floor of water comment :)


find where the brick is behind plaster before drilling I'm putting up a wall mounted holder for my road bike and the istructions say that the bolts must go into brick, not mortar. There are three bolts and they are quite randomly placed (i.e not in a row).

I would usually use trial and error but in this instance because of the arrangement of bolts I could end up with lots of holes in my wall.

Is there a way to find where brick/mortar is behind plaster before drilling the holes for the bolts?

If you are talking about supporting a bicycle then 100 year old mortar will certainly hold your bike especially with three anchors.

I would just put the anchors where I wanted them and not worry about hitting brick. However, with a running bond pattern, and measuring the brick dimensions from the outside, whether your first anchor hits brick or not you should be able to measure from there to hit brick on the two subsequent anchors.

Good luck!


Is there a standard symbol for an inlet on building electrical plans? Generally, most regions have a semi-standard or standard set of symbols that is used to denote electrical wiring devices, such as switches and receptacles, on building electrical plans/blueprints.  A representative subset of symbols used in North America is shown below, for those who are not familiar with the symbology used here.

However, none of the sources I have been able to find in my (admittedly limited) research have depicted a symbol for an electrical inlet, such as the ones used when houses are fitted so that a portable generator can provide standby power through some sort of transfer means.

Is there such a symbol, either in a standard somewhere or as a de facto convention? Or, am I left with simply using a symbol for a specialized receptacle (not shown above, but there are de facto quasi-standard symbols for such out there) and then using a note to denote that it is an inlet of a certain type?

I did a quick review of my symbols library including an international crossover reference and really didn't find any real de facto symbol. I suppose someone could have come up with one and included it in a legend somewhere but it certainly would not be a standard ANSI symbol. I guess you're stuck with using a specialized receptacle and identifying it as an inlet. Usually these things are identified on a riser diagram and try to show some sort of schematic description of what it really is.

Sorry I couldn't help.


How can I square the end of a 4x4 post by grinding or sanding? I have a piece of 4x4 with a very uneven cut at the end, and I want to make this end nice and flat.
However, I am puzzled that there seem to be no popular tools for flat wood grinding. Sanding seems to be the obvious choice - but what if we need to grind down as much as 1/4" of wood, or more? I have a small Black&Decker sander, and while it works well making smooths surfaces, I'm afraid it's going to take me quite a while to sand away all that extra wood.
I also have an angle grinder, and while I initially thought that this should be an ideal tool for wood flattening, I'm surprised with the dearth of appropriate blades.
I've seen only a few blades on internet that seem appropriate - flat disks for wood grinding (with blades, not sandpaper), but have no idea how good they would be for my purpose.
If I had a large surface to grind down, a plane would be an obvious choice, but a 4x4 end should be too small for any plane.
Or should I just arm myself with some low-grit sandpaper and patience?
An update: I ended up doing this job using a sander with 40 grit sandpaper. It took a lot of time, but came out nicely. Thanks everybody!

Do you have a saw? Any sort of saw, be it hand saw, circular saw, hand or power miter box. These are all appropriate tools for squaring up an end like this. Even a jig-saw with a long enough blade should get you a cut that's close enough to finish sand.
An angle grinder would not be a good tool for this, which is probably why you're not finding any wood cutting blades. Usually an angle grinder is not a woodworking tool. You can use it, but you'll end up burning the wood with a grinding disk, and probably with a standard cutting disk, too.
You can use a hand plane, though planing end-grain is very difficult and requires a very sharp blade and proper setup of the plane (check out the Woodworking sister site for plane setup details - I know there have been questions about that there). If you don't already have one, you're going to spend more money, time and frustration trying to get this setup than it's really worth, especially if you expect this to be a one-off situation.
You could also just use your sander with something like 36 grit paper. You'd be surprised how quickly that will chew away wood. Get close to your finish line with the 36 grit, then switch to something like 80 or 100 grit to get really close, then switch to a higher grit if you want/need a finer finish, or just finish it up with the 80 or 100.


How long can a refrigerator be stored without being used? I purchased a refrigerator 8 months ago, but it will not be used right away. It came directly from the showroom. Must I use it now, or I can wait longer before using it?

Clean empty refrigerators should be stored upright and kept dry. You should prevent moisture building up inside the stored refrigerator - perhaps by removing the door or by keeping the door open.

The manufacturer's instruction booklet may have a section on storage.

Unused refrigerators are a potentially fatal hazard for children, who may get trapped inside. For this reason doors should be removed, locked closed or prevented from being closed (using a child-proof mechanism).


Determining minimum dimensions for circular driveway What should be the minimum dimensions for a circular driveway on a 100' wide property, including the radius?

The property is flat, and the house will be wherever we want to place it relative to the circular driveway. Largest vehicles using it will be Ford Explorer, Toyota 4-Runner, so driveway will about 9'-10' wide. We want enough space for a small lawn between the driveway and the house. I guess the real question we have is: what is the minimum distance the outside curve would be on the 100' wide property, so we don't use up too much front property for the driveway itself?

Architects and traffic engineers have used “Architectural Graphic Standards” by Ramsey and Sleeper since 1932. It’s been updated every 4-5 years by The American Institute of Architects and John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

They recommend a minimum INSIDE radius of 12’ for sports car, 15’ for sedan, 19’ for SUV’s and Cadillacs and 22’ for pickup trucks with small boat trailers (boat=16’ or less).

They recommend a minimum OUTSIDE radius of 22’ for sedans, 29’ for SUVs and Cadillacs and 41’ for pickup trucks with small boat trailers.

We do not provide a curb between the driveway and walkway on the outside radius for “extra” cushion.


proper grounding at main service drop panel If I go from inside my 200 amp semi-flush mount main breaker panel down inside wall and connect to rebar in foundation then from rebar to my water pipe do I still need to use a grounding rod or not? its all new foundation. new construction.

If the concrete encased electrode is of at least 20' of bare solid copper wire buried within 2" of the ground in the concrete footing/foundation or is connected to a galvanized pipe of the same length, it is considered a sufficient grounding electrode.  As a side the code allows the re-bar that is encased in the foundation/footing if it is all tied together with standard steel tie wire to serve as the electrode. No additional ground is required.  This is how I read the code. It is always wise to check with your local inspector.


Resistance on one pole from mains I was measuring and checking continuity using my cheap meter at the main 125 amp breaker of my home while it was shut off. I noticed that when I set to 2M Ohms, I got a reading at about .3 on one of the main lines. The other main line measured 1 Ohm. I put my other lead on the neutral bar.

Should I be concerned?

If you were measuring between a hot lead and neutral, with the power off, what you were seeing was the cumulative resistance of all connected (and switched on) loads on that leg. If everything was disconnected or turned off, you’d see infinite resistance.

What you probably saw was a very small load on one leg and a larger load on the other. Nothing to worry about.

BTW, I’m glad that you were smart enough to do this testing with the main breaker off. I still need to say this: never, ever do resistance testing on a hot circuit, especially at mains voltage! Ohmeters are designed to be used on unpowered circuits. Connecting a meter set to resistance to 120 volts could have caused the meter to literally blow up in your face, causing serious injuries or even death!


How to insert bulb in this fluorescent socket? I hope someone can advise me. I'm trying to insert an F40 bulb (1.5" diameter, 4' long) into the socket shown below. With every other fluorescent socket in my home, I simply orient the two bulb pins vertically, push the bulb up into the socket, and then rotate the bulb 90 degrees. But as the photo shows, I can't insert the bulb vertically, because that path is blocked. I must be missing something obvious... can anyone help me? Thank you!

David

Yeah, that's just a wacky "feature" of this particular type of tombstone.

Yes, that little black sleeve rotates independently from the white tombstone.   In theory, it's supposed to be impossible for it to be in that position - since you would have had to turn it 90 degrees to remove the tube.    However, if the tube broke or was cleverly removed in some other way, it could wind up like that.

So, you need a "key" to turn it 90 degrees. The key looks exactly like the end of a fluorescent tube, and I bet you have one of those :) You just stick the tube almost into position to install it, and land only that end on that tombstone.  Turn it 90 degrees (should be a small detent) and you're all set.


How can I control water and algae in drainage ditch? My house has a drainage ditch running in front next to the street. Unfortunately, my next door neighbor has neglected his ditch and now my ditch does not drain properly and fills up with algae. I'm working with the city to have this resolved, however in the meantime...

Are there any plants or other non-chemical methods for controlling the algae in the ditch? Are there any methods for helping the water evaporate faster? Perhaps changing the slopes of the ditch?

I'm not looking for something like fish because there's not enough to support them, but even during summer there's a decent amount of water in the bottom (I live along the Texas Gulf coast so there's a decent amount of rain year-round).

Throw some bales of barley straw into the water. Barley straw is often used to control algae in fish/garden ponds. I've had pretty good luck using it in my pond. I hear that when the barley decomposes it releases/creates hydrogen peroxide and kills the algae.

Another thing you might try is adding snails and/or tadpoles to the water. They'll eat the algae (and the tadpoles will eat mosquito larvae too.) Adding a few goldfish wouldn't be out of the question either.

Water Hyacinth, Water Lilies, and Lotus are all good plants that will prevent algae from growing by limiting the amount of sunlight that can penetrate the surface of the water. Elodea is an underwater plant that will eat up all the nutrients that the algae need to survive.

The plants are going to set you back quite a few bucks, but the "critters" are pretty cheap. I think you can buy goldfish for fifteen cents each or something like that.

You could go all-out and pick up the plants and critters at the same time and make the ditch into a water garden....but that's a whole other thing.


How do I anchor wall-mount hooks to studs if the mounting points need specific spacing? I have two road bikes I want to mount on a basement wall. I have the mounting hook, which is something along these lines. Two screws (and whatever variety of plug/anchor), and the hook holds the bike from the top wheel. The bikes weigh about 19 and 27 pounds.

Space is limited, and because of that I want to mount the hooks as close to a corner as possible, and as close together as possible (so there's enough room for the handlebars in between. The ideal distance from the corner to the first hook is 10", and about 19" from that (29" from the corner) to the next hook. I don't have a stud finder (I can pick one up tomorrow though), but if they're 16" apart, clearly this won't line up.

I'm looking for any common techniques for scenarios like this - I assume mounting to the drywall is out of the question with that load (I've confirmed the drywall by drilling in a couple places, there's also 4" of insulation behind the drywall between studs). I also want to avoid destroying the wall with more than 4 holes if possible, it's a rented apartment.

The standard advice is to use the stud finder, mount the bike hooks on studs, and make do with a few lost inches. But if you must get those extra inches, you can mount a 2x4 on the wall horizontally, with at least each end anchored into a stud. And then you can install your bike hook on the 2x4.


How long an extension ladder do I need? I'm planning to do some projects around my house.  One is to change a light at the exterior peak of my garage, which is about 28' tall.  The other is some painting on the side of my house, which is about 18' tall.  I looked at a chart from a ladder maker and it looks like I could use a 28 or 32 foot extension ladder.  Does that sound right and would either work for both jobs?

As long as you're not stepping off the ladder then either will be fine. If you are stepping off to a roof you want the ladder to be taller than the roof line.


What is this tool called and what is it used for? Can anyone tell me what these are used for?  I have a full set that was handed down.

There is NO edge on these at all for cutting and they are too light of a gauge to be snips.

These appear to be snap-ring pliers.
The pins at the nose go into the holes in the snap-ring, then you squeeze to compress the ring to release it from its groove, and flip the lock to hold the squeeze so the ring doesn't expand, rip the pliers from your hand and launch the ring to wherever it is that small parts go to die.


How can I construct a lightweight privacy panel 3-4ft high by 8ft long or thereabout? I have a two-story deck with the upper part on the roof, and I lay on top to sunbathe. The top was surrounded by a fence, but after installing solar panels close to the deck I removed a large part of the fence to avoid shading. I would like to find some lightweight portable panels three to four feet high so I can have privacy.

What I visualized is a rectangular tube frame with fabric stretched, and two flat bars attached at the bottom for feet. Three feet high would be best, but four foot max.

How about using the systems that are used to hide A/C units? they are 3-4 feet high, attractive in appearance and you can link together as many as you wish. And when you want to take them down they are light and can be easily broken down and stored. They come in white, but with a little PVC paint they can become any color you desire.

Another option would be creating a frame with boards and attaching trellis boards.  With this option you can use hinges and make it fold for easy removal and storage.  You could also add some pretty artificial foliage for extra privacy.


Why does my old table saw power switch cut both hot and neutral? I am refurbishing an old Craftsman 10" table saw that has been collecting dust in the back of my shop for years.

I don't remember exactly how I acquired it, but to my recollection the one time I tried to start it sparks flew from the on/off switch. The switch controls an integrated 110vt receptacle which the motor plugs into. All is factory original.

I tested the motor by plugging the motor power cord directly into a wall receptacle and it runs fine. I would like to resume using the factory On/Off switch (because it is a safety switch- pull On, push Off) but wanted to check it first.

Opening the switch box I discover that the switch is double-pole, i.e. opens and closes both the hot and neutral wires that lead to the motor receptacle.

why did the manufacturer install a switch that opens/closes both the neutral and hot?
can I safely use the switch to only open/close the hot (the neutral side is dead/open)? I can wire the neutral to bypass the switch...

The technique is called double-switching. According to this article, on AC equipment the technique is used to avoid dangerous conditions when hot and neutral are reversed, as often happens with outlets that have been improperly wired.  It is permitted by this exception in NEC 404.2(B):

  404.2(B) Grounded Conductors. Switches or circuit breakers
  shall not disconnect the grounded conductor of a circuit.
  Exception: A switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted
  to disconnect a grounded circuit conductor where all circuit
  conductors are disconnected simultaneously, or where
  the device is arranged so that the grounded conductor cannot
  be disconnected until all the ungrounded conductors of
  the circuit have been disconnected.


Can I repack toilet supply valve? The water supply to my toilet is copper with a valve sweated on.  The line from the valve to the tank seems to be a compression fitting.  The valve has developed a leak around the shaft which the handle is mounted on.  There seems to be a "nut" at the base of the shaft which looks like I could loosen it and repack the valve but I'm unsure.  I'd really prefer to avoid having a plumber come out to sweat on a new valve if I can.

I have repacked these valves many times using Teflon rope. I have even done it with Teflon tape but the rope is easier and last longer. Turn off the main supply and bleed the pressure remove the gland nut and back the assembly out (good time to inspect the seat and replace if deformed), I have a kit of seals I purchased years ago with 4 or 5 different sized seats, some shaft packing (Teflon rope) and some new rubber seals a good idea for any home owner to have a kit like this to repair faucets under 10$ and just add as you use up and save over a replacement.  I will usually wrap the shaft with at least 3 full turns and more if the shaft is in bad shape put the assembly back together and tighten the gland nut turn the water back on bleed any air out of the line and check for leaks. I do not back seat (fully force the valve open as this is hard on the packing) I learned this with SCUBA diving where you open the valve fully then close it 1/2 to 1 turn to extend the packing life.


Why do my bedroom and kitchen lights switch off or on without operating them from the switch? I connected a ceiling Fan to my En-Suit, and ever since that night, my Bedroom and kitchen lights are switching on and off at irregular intervals. But the fan is getting power from a circuit breaker for lights, and my Bedroom and kitchen lights is getting power from a different breaker. However, my bedroom downlighters are on a dimmer. the kitchen downlighters are also on dim, but it's using the SAME dimmer for my kitchen downlighters. Which means, the wiring from my bedroom downlighter is relayed to my kitchen switch.

But the lights has always been working before. My electrician is now also confused why the lights are going at sunset almost at the same time and also in the morning almost about the same time. And those lights have never been on a timer  (although it sounds like it's on a timer).

Guesswork: in the absence of any timers on the premises, something is wired wrong and an exterior light with a photo sensor is completing a path.

Diagnosing any problem usually begins at, ever since I...


How can I quiet my loud washing machine? I have a Amana  washer and during the rinse and spin cycles it is EXTREMELY loud. Like so loud I can hear it while I'm outside. My baby doesn't sleep while I'm doing laundry!! It's not a banging noise it's just a constant volume.

It sounds like your washer needs its main bearings replaced. My top load Sears Kenmore HE washer had the bearing seals fail and allowed water to get into the bearings. Over the course of a few months the washer, in high speed cycles, sounded like a freight train passing by in the next room. It was LOUD just like you are describing.

A sure fire test to check if it is the bearings is to rotate the washer tub / agitator by hand, when the washer is OFF, for a few turns. If the rotation has a grinding or roughness feeling then it is almost for sure the bearings.

I took on the repair myself and purchased the replacement parts on line for ~50$US. It also took a special tool to press in the new roller bearings. I found out that the bearings were industry standard size roller bearings (my washer used two bearings each of which was a different size) so I went to a site that sells a bit higher quality bearings with known names than the brandless import types used in the original washer. The special tool was a bit expensive at ~85$US but made the install very easy.

My suggestion is to get your washer model number and do some Google searches. When I did that I even found that the results turned up several U-Tube videos showing the steps in the bearing removal and installation.

After the new bearings were in place washer runs better than a new one. The thing is now so quiet I'm never sure just when the last load of laundry is completed.


Is this outdoor light wiring correct? I have an outdoor light that isn't working. I've removed and tested it indoors. It works fine and the bulb is fine.

The wiring that comes from the house consists of two twin-and-earth cables. Power is on the same circuit as the indoor ceiling lights.

Please excuse my amateur diagram. The wiring into the lamp looks like this, with the two incoming cables at the top, lamp connections at the bottom:

   | | |     | | |
   | | |     | | |
X__| | |_____| | |__X
     |    |    |
     |    |    |
     ο    ο    ο
     L    E    N

The earths are entwined and wired into the lamp.
The live input is taken from one cable, and neutral from the other.
The other two wires (X) go nowhere, but may have come loose!
I presume one cable goes to the switch, but I can't be sure.

Is this wiring correct? I inherited it when I moved into the house, but it did work once upon a time.

Is there anything incorrect/unsafe about this wiring that could have stopped the light working?

Possible solution:

If the two loose wires have come apart, and assuming one cable goes to the switch. I am wondering if the following is correct. Below the loose ends (previously marked X) are connected so they complete the circuit via the switch (S).

    (S)
   o   o     L E N
   | E |     | | |
   | | |     | | |
   | | |     | | |
   | | +--X--+ | |
   | +----+----+ |
   |      |      |
   +---o  ο  o---+
       L  E  N

Thanks to clues from folks in the comments I solved this by simply connecting the two dead ends together to form the switch loop. They had obviously come loose inside the lamp (possibly through wiggling of cable when lamp angle changed).

With these ends connected, the wall switch ON and power OFF I could confirm conductivity between the previously loose end and the live terminal on the lamp. This gave me the confidence that one of the cables indeed went to the switch and identified the live wire. (no useful colours to go by).

With power ON I could confirm 240V between the live wire and the neutral connection  on the lamp, and with the switch ON also I confirmed 240V flowing between the L+N terminals on the lamp and the bulb contacts.

Light now works. Thanks all commenters.


Is this "sunken scew head" on the underside of a pan head a thing? I saw listing which was described as a "sunked screw head"-- which I know as meant for a countersunk hole that tapers.
Here is a copy of the photo where I can see a gap at the underside of the pan head. Is this a typo in the description or is this an actual head type?
The listing is on Aliexpress with no proper specification. I don't think I'll have much luck trying to ask the seller which is why I'm asking here.

PhilippNagel's comment is correct.
The bottom of the screw head is flat except where it tapers to the threaded shaft.
This taper seems to be no wider then the outer dimension of the threads so a countersink would not be necessary. (unless of coarse you wanted the top of the head of the screw to be flush with whatever it is installed in but that would not really be the correct fastener for that application.)


Questions about home water pressure (105-110 PSI range) and the drastic pressure drop when a single faucet is opened I live in a three-storey townhouse and have measured with a pressure gauge on an outside faucet, at the laundry machine cold water feed and on the hot water's hose-compatible drain a pressure of around 105-110 PSI. For additional context, there is a pressure reducing valve installed just after the incoming main that looks to have been put in when the house was built. When I open a faucet or flush a toilet, the pressure appears to drop to mid-20 to mid-30s PSI. Is this normal?

The reason I started looking into this is because the pressure drop is super noticeable when taking a shower and, at least until recently, I had never noticed issues when a toilet was flushed or even a dishwasher or laundry run when I was in the shower.

It sounds like your pressure reducing valve (regulator)  is not working properly.
Normally the max pressure is 80 psi or less, there are several possibilities since this was not a problem in the past we will go to debris plugging the orifices. I have found that rust / scale has prevented the valve from fully closing thus you see full pressure at all times static, once there is flow the valve opens but the orifices are partly blocked so the flow is limited and the pressure falls.

Hopefully you have a shutoff valve prior to the valve / regulator turn the pressure off bleed the water pressure off and back the adjustment. now disassemble  you will see several small channels and the debris are probably obvious, I put a rag over the body and turn the water on for a second to flush other small bits of crud. I clean the diaphragm and reassemble (if you can find a rebuild kit these are a good idea incase the diaphragm gets damaged) the last kit I bought was mid 20$ some are less depending on size and type. Make sure to get a potable kit since this is a source of drinking, bathing and dish washing water.

Once reassembled or possibly replaced turn the water on and increase the pressure setting to the 60-80 range (this is normal fro many homes) now when you turn on a faucet the pressure should stay at or close to your pressure setting.

The one thing I did not talk about was a ruptured diaphragm but these normally have full flow because the water bypasses the valve section through the rupture.


Outdoor faucet leaks when hose is attached I'm trying to fix this leaky outdoor faucet that came with a house I just moved into. It's a Woodford Freezeless Wall Faucet, Model 14:

http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Wall_Faucet_Pages/Model-14.html

It seems to be in decent shape. If there is no hose connected, the water turns on and off as expected and there are no signs of leaks. When I attach a hose, the faucet leaks.

Water flows through the hose as it should, but there is also a decent amount of water spraying out around the handle of the faucet. It seems to be spraying out around the gap between part 6 and 2 in the exploded parts drawing towards the bottom of the product link above.

Does anyone know what would be causing this? I was about to take it apart to try and see what the issue was. I removed the handle, but found it extremely difficult to loosen part number 3. I figured I would ask some experts here first.

Use a proper size box wrench to remove or tighten part #3 (the packing nut). Grip the body at the spout with a medium size pipe wrench and apply force opposite the force of the box wrench so there is no net torque on part #10 (the adjustable flange). This will allow you to exert maximum force on the packing nut without the danger of ripping the flange out of your house.

The packing nut holds part #4 (the packing) in place and also compresses it to a watertight fit around part #6 (the shaft). Since you don't know the age or condition of the packing, you should replace it.

Also, while you have the faucet taken apart, clean and polish the part of the shaft that will be gripped by the packing. A rough surface here will quickly destroy the new packing.

You may be able to stop the leak by just tightening the packing nut. My experience is that unless the packing is fairly new, this fix will be only temporary.


Double Wall Oven Breaker Tripping I just installed a new GE electric double wall oven and seem to be having trouble with the breaker.

I bought a plug to hook up to the oven and an outlet to hook up to the wiring.  The instructions showed the unit being hard wired.... I thought that a plug and outlet would be easy and a little easier.

So I hooked up the plug to the unit.  Red, Black, White, and ground.  I hooked up the outlet to the wire in the wall and made sure that the wires on the plug match the slots on the outlet.  (red plug in red outlet slot, white in white, etc...)

I Had to splice the wires in a junction box in the basement.  The oven is in a new location and the current wiring would not reach.

The old oven had a 30amp breaker and the instructions for the new unit call for a 40amp breaker.  I replaced the breaker and when I flip it "On", it trips instantly.

My first thought is that I have to pull the oven out and eliminate the plug and outlet, but I thought I would ask for any other ideas first..

Thanks

You likely have a short somewhere in your circuit. When a breaker trips immediately after being turned on, it's a good indication of a short. Check your wiring and make sure all connections are correct, both at the oven (plug and receptacle) and the junction box. My bet is it's in the junction box you made.

But, you need to replace that 30A breaker immediately! Not doing so is an extreme fire hazard and could result in your house burning down. You need to pull new wire before putting in a 40A breaker.

Unless...

The breaker is sized to protect the wiring and receptacles (and hardwired appliances) in the circuit; in this case, the "weakest link in the chain" can only handle 30A. If you're lucky, that was the old oven and the wiring in the walls is actually big enough to support more than 30A - but you can't know that without visually checking it. Look on the sheath of the cable, and somewhere there it should indicate the gauge: AWG 10 or #10 or something similar. If you're lucky it will be #8 or even #6 wire, good for 40 or 50A, respectively. Chances are, though, if the old oven was a 30A, the wiring is only #10 and good for 30A.


How can I find a replacement aerator for this faucet? We have the following faucet, which is missing an aerator. I don't see any identifying marks, nor anything to unscrew at the end of the faucet (i.e., it doesn't seem to be a standard screw-in aerator). How can I find an aerator that fits this faucet?

Does that whole round bulb part unscrew? It kinda looks like it might. Might spray some lime away on the whole works to get a better idea how it's put together. It looks like maybe the white part should unscrew. Like the white was the aerator but the screens have been pushed out.


Replacing bathroom light fixture, no junction box First time homeowner and newbie DIY-er here.
I'm replacing the light fixture in our bathroom and there's no junction box behind the wall, but I think I'm seeing insulation in there too.
There's a stud directly to the left of the circular hole (where the previous fixture had two screws into the stud, and two screws into the drywall).
Do I need to put a junction box in there?  It seems unsafe not to.

The big unknown is the state of the wiring behind the drywall. If it is in conduit (unlikely) then you are in better shape because you can run new wires if you need to. More likely is that this is a cable. If there is enough loose cable inside the wall that you can actually have cable (i.e., outer-sheath still attached) pull through the hole in the drywall, then you can either use a surface-mount box or use a fixture that has a box built into it - i.e., pull the cable all the way into the fixture.
However, if the cable (outer sheath) ends behind the drywall with no extra length available, then you have to cut into the wall and install a box. If the cable (outer sheath) ends too far behind the wall to get it into a box at this location then you have bigger problems.
Assuming the cable sheath ends within a few inches of the wall, you should be able to cut a hole to match a box and install a box. The left edge should be at the stud - mount the box to the stud. The cable will need to go into the box so that the outer sheath fits through a proper clamp. On plastic boxes these are usually part of the box. On metal boxes these are additional (they don't cost much, they just aren't included because a metal box used with conduit will not need them, plus sometimes you need more than one, depending on how you are using the box).


How to properly seal a leaky pump coupling on a hot tub/spa? I've been trying to solve a leaky coupling on my hot tub's pump.  The leaky coupling is above the pump (whereas the other connection on the pump runs to the heater, and is on the side of the pump).  The other end of the leaking coupling goes to the filter (which is a pressurized filter container).  The coupling has gradually been dripping more and more.  I did a little research online, and most spa web sites recommend only to tighten these couplings hand tight, so I didn't want to over-do it and create a bigger problem.

I unscrewed the coupling, and saw there was a silicone-looking washer, but there did not appear to be any kind of washer or o-ring on the underside of the coupling.

Based on a recommendation from a local pool & spa supply store, who said their pool guys use liquid Teflon-based thread sealant, I picked up some "Rectorseal T plus 2".  I cleaned off most of the old (caulk-like?) sealant from the thread, then gooped on some Teflon sealant, tightened everything up, filled the tub, and plugged it in.  I was dismayed to discover the coupling was leaking worse than before I messed with it!

What did I do wrong?  Any suggestions for fixing this leaky coupling?  Do I need to replace the washer and/or coupling?  Add an o-ring inside the coupling?

Your coupling or pipe might have a crack, too difficult for you to see or notice.

You are correct they are supposed to be hand tightened and that should be enough .

The connection on your coupling needs to be straight against your pipe this is where your seal should be. The coupling will not have a seal on the back side and should not - you state no-o-rings and that is correct.

Normally at the pipe to pipe connection is where your seal will be (You seem to indicate a silicone rubber seal). If the pipes are offset a bit - you can end up with a poor seal and the coupling will not perform. To exaggerate a bit think about a  shim stick is wider at one end then the other - your connection of pipes might sit like that. In this case hand tighten will get so far and then will not function. You would need to wiggle your pipes into better position as you tighten to get rid of any offset. Given this coupling is by a pump and the way it is connected - the vibrations of the pump can cause some issues.

Your coupling might be worn at the threads and the fitting (or possibly a hair line crack).. might be better to simply replace it with a new one - I would replace it rather than play around with a $5 part - just faster, also I could ensure that my pipes were straight together perfect - so I have a nice fit.

Your liquid thread tape - if the pipes are fine threads use it and it might be ok, you will need to let it set up follow the directions.

I personally do not use it, I don't like it at all.
I use the thread tape - I stretch the tape as I wrap and I roll backwards off of the tape core - wrapping my pipe. I make sure I stretched a little so it fits nicely in the threads of the pipe - in a coarse thread like that coupling I would have several wraps - the tape is cheap enough and I want a good fit and good seal - the coupling should go on a little snug to turn but not so difficult that it could break.


How should I wire a Trane air handler & heat strips? Looking for validation or correction on my understanding of requirements for wiring 5 ton Trane air handler with 20kw heat strips. Of course, I read the label and identified that there are (2) 240v circuits required. Minimum circuit ampacities are 57 and 50 amps respectively. MOPs are accordingly 60 and 50. The heat strips are designated 40a per circuit. It's indoors in basement and wire runs from panel are about 25 feet.

The heating system was recently installed and HVAC contractor reused existing 2/0 AL cable connected in my panel to a single 4 pole 125a breaker. He installed a single feed kit that serves the (2) 60a disconnects in the unit. Concerns: 1) the single feed kit is labeled for use only up to 100a, 2) the air handler is labeled for use only with copper wire.

I therefore would like to have new wiring run to the heater. My options, as I understand them, are a) keep the single feed kit and run a single copper feed from the panel presumably with a 100a breaker replacing the 125a or b) remove the single feed kit and run two feeds, one for each of the circuits in the air handler, appropriately sized and connected to one 50a and one 60a breaker.

Is there a general preference of rule of thumb for which of these options is best? Will the single feed with 100a breaker be adequate or will it trip when running on full aux heat?

Using sizing calculators, tables and derating - appears that single 100a feed will require either 1 awg copper NM (SE) or 3 awg THHN in conduit. The air handler uses 2 conductors plus ground (no neutral) for each circuit and I have not seen or been able to find 2-conductor copper plus ground in 1 AWG or larger.

Separate feeds will require either 4 awg 2-conductor copper plus ground NM (also difficult to find) or 4 awg THHN in conduit (which would require 4 THHN conductors plus ground in a conduit - for which I derated the ampacity of the cable to 80% of the 75 degree value).

Hate to have to use conduit, especially since there are many turns (more than 360 degrees) and practically zero clearance for the bend required where cable enters the air handler.

Also wondering: if I run two separate circuits/lines, do I need to tie together to the (2) 240 volt 2-pole breakers in the panel so that they would trip together?

Sorry about the long message but wanted to be precise.  Any suggestions?

UPDATE:

I want to get rid of the AL wiring because the old 125a breaker shows some possible heat damage (dark spot) and one leg of my main feed coming into the house partially melted down at the meter. Not sure if this was related to the old HVAC system but seems suspicious and I'd reather start fresh.

Everyone seems to agree that 6/2 would be adequate for the 60 amp circuit, even though I thought I read that maximum ampacity of 6 awg NM wire is only 55a (and the max current listed on the heater is 57!)

By the way, the way the air handler is configured, each of the 2 circuits has one 9.6kw heat strip on it, plus one of them also includes the blower. Thus, my question on tying the breakers together in the load center.

Unless I'm missing something in your explanation, using the 2/0 AL wire doesn't seem to be a problem, except that it's AL and the unit does not specify AL. What will probably be simpler than running all new wire is to just get AL-to-copper splice connectors.

And in response to:

  if I run two separate circuits/lines, do I need to tie together to the (2) 240 volt 2-pole breakers

No, you don't. If the heater circuit trips, you'll just lose your heat. And if the air handler breaker trips, it will shut off the heater strips. So no problem there.

In response to your update:

If the breaker is visibly damaged, then replace the breaker. If you decide to keep the AL wire, then make sure the breaker is rated for AL. Again, replacing the breaker will be cheaper than running all new copper.

A partially melted lug is a bad sign. You need to get an evaluation from a professional.

Having two breakers is still not a problem. If breaker for the lone heater strip trips, you get reduced heating capacity. If the other breaker trips, the air handler will shut off the other heater strip automatically.


How can I repair the metal cover on my exterior door trim? How do I fix it?!  Its a thin metal material that's nailed onto a wood frame. I live on a rental property and am hoping to be able to get my deposit back with this repair.  The guy at home depot said I need a contractor but it can't be that complicated.

A siding contractor could easily make a new piece of bent metal trim for you. But the cost would probably be 150-200 dollars.

Or you can order a custom bent piece in the same style and color from trimbender online. Take careful measurements and enter them under the matching profile. Select the texture and color and your done. They will make the piece and ship it to you. Or you could replace the door trim boards wit a pvc trim board of same size from big box stores.


How do I turn off this two-pipe steam radiator? We live in an NYC apartment with steam heat. The noise of this radiator is driving us crazy because it's in the bedroom. We want to turn it off. The solution seems to be to shut the intake, the same way you would if you wanted to separate this unit from the system to service it. However, this set-up doesn't look quite like any of the instructions on turning off radiators that I've found online.

My question is: How do I close the intake on this radiator?

What I tried

I tried turning the screw on the right hand side clockwise, and it appeared to tighten, but did not shut off the intake. I tried taking a pair of pliers and turning the nut underneath the screw clockwise (very stiff), but I stopped when it seemed to start leaking steam around the top of the nut (and turned it counter clockwise a turn or so to undo).

Photos

Here's the whole radiator. I'm assuming intake is on the right & outflow on the left.

Close-up of the intake: there's a screw on top, then a long narrow bit, and then the nut I tried to tighten.

Close-up of the outflow: there's also a nut over here (on the right), but I figure this is the output, so I'd just be trapping steam/water in the radiator if I managed to shut this.

The item on the left is the steam trap and can not be regulated or shut off. stay away from this item. The shut-off valve is the item with the screw on the top. Turn the nut ccw (counter clockwise), just slightly about a 1/4 turn, then put a wrench on the stem above the nut, I would use a 6" or 8" pipe wrench or vise grips, and try to turn cw (clockwise) until it stops. This be the closed position. Do not put too much torque on this  stem. If you can't turn it, have someone that works on steam valves turn it. You do not want to break it or twist it off. After shutting the valve "off" turn the nut cw to tighten, not too tight.  You could also turn it part way to control the heat output if needed. If you still can not get this valve to close and want to control the heat output try covering the top with a board, cardboard, or wrap part or all of it with aluminum cooking foil. This is a steam system and the noise could be coming from above or beneath your apartment. Noise will travel in the pipes.   HOPE THIS HELPS


Can I wire this light fixture set with the plate mounted directly to the stud? I'm not an electrician.

Light fixture has terrible installation instructions. I bought two. I pig-tailed one.  I used 14-2 Type UF for the pig-tail because I didn't have 2' of Romex at the time.

In the past I've always mounted lights to a box and grounded the box. This fixture wants you to mount their disk and there is no grounding screw.

Can you review my connections for anything blatantly wrong or dangerous?

It works fine.  I just fear arcing or something similar.

As Jack noted, you really really need a junction box here. As mounted, the wires could rub against the metal plate. A pancake might be overkill, though (and you do need a NM clamp for those). I would recommend a joist junction box instead

It's fan rated, requires no clamps, and you can attach your plate to it easily. Oh, and you don't need to ground a plastic box.

  In the past I've always mounted lights to a box and grounded the box. This fixture wants you to mount their disk and there is no grounding screw.

As long as the fixture itself is grounded (which is has a ground wire in that green/yellow stripe) then the plate will also be grounded through the screws.


Is exposed doorbell wiring in the garage dangerous? When we bought our house 12 yrs ago, we learned during the walk through that the exposed  wires  in the garage were from the doorbell. He said to never touch the wires because we could get electrocuted. Is that true? Why would they leave it like this? And I believe he said I couldn't put  some kind of electrical box over it. Is that true also?

I tried to post a pic but I couldn't find a way to post it to my question.

Can you get electrocuted from exposed wires?

Yes, absolutely, if the wiring is powerful enough.  It's not necessarily very LIKELY that doorbell wiring is that powerful but it's possible, depending on how stupid the installer was.

As for putting a box over them - in the US exposed permanent wiring is a flat out no no.

But - based on your question - I'm going to assume that you have minimal to no experience with electricity, so I URGE you, do not try to DIY.  Hire a professional electrician.


removing humifier control have a new furnace for several yrs. now and i no longer have a humidifier. finally getting around to removing humidifier controller.
Question:  there are 2 wires, 1 red, 1 white, attached to the humidifier controller on the wall. can i cut the wire & shove it back into the wall since it's impossible for it to be attached to a non-existent humidifier and furnace?
or, should i wrap the wire in elec. tape, cap & then put wire back into wall?

First, you're dealing with low-voltage wiring. There's no real risk of shock or fire. For that reason you can do as you like.

The only real risk is of a short, which could potentially damage circuitry or just waste power. However, I'm guessing that the power supply for this circuit was at the furnace, or there's a battery in the controller. Since you've removed the furnace unit, check for a battery and remove it, then carry on.


Planning to switch to a tankless water heater I am planning to convert to a tankless water heater but have a few questions to make sure I am on the correct path.

I live in a rowhouse in Philadelphia where natural gas is used for heat and my water heater tank is located in the basement by the front of the house where the water (and gas) enter the house.  I want to relocate the new tankless water heater to more central location that is closer to the points of demand. I am planning the placement to on the wall about a foot away from the stack and below the kitchen. I want to avoid cutting through the exterior wall for the venting and was hoping I can run the piping along side the stack (not sure about the spacing requirements) inside the interior wall that separates the kitchen and dining room on the first floor and bathroom and bedroom on the second floor and vent through the roof.

The questions I have are:
1) it is copper piping throughout and was thinking to replace the 3/4" feeding with PEX but maybe it would be helping to keep copper to help the water warm up a bit before reaching the heater. Is it better to keep it copper since PEX is a better insulator.
2) Not sure whether to use concentric or not, would be great to only cut one hole, but maybe I want to add some exhausting venting from the bathroom upstairs which means I might need add a separate exhaust pipe anyway.  If do not go with the concentric can I use the exhaust piping to vent the bathroom exhaust too?  is there a backstop.

Any information would be appreciated.

You cannot combine an exhaust vent for a tankless heater with other vents. For one thing there would be a possibility of the exhaust from the WH going the wrong way in the other vent. The WH must have a dedicated vent.

Also depending on the model the vent may have a requirement for a certain length of vertical run immediately adjacent to the heater before you have a horizontal run. (Tankless WHs with power vents may not have this requirement.)

It will be very costly to retrofit a new vent path for a tankless heater through multiple stories and out the roof. Reconsider your reluctance at venting out a side wall. This would almost certainly be much better, simpler and cheaper. A new roof penetration is an invitation to a roof leak because plumbers in general  don't properly flash a retrofit roof penetration. Ours leaks!

Even though the current location is not ideal it may be best to use the same location as the current a gas fired tank. Note that the tankless water heater draws a lot more gas when it is on (up to 4 or 5 times more) than a 40 gal or 50 gal gas tank. The gas supply line and the gas meter must be large enough to supply this amount.

Different models of tankless WH have different sizes and types of vent. It would be a pretty thick wall that would allow one of these vents to be inside a wall.

If the copper water supply piping is in good shape, there would be no reason to replace it with PEX. It may help to put foam insulation around the hot water line wherever you can.

Thirteen years ago we replaced our 40-gal tank with a minimal Bosch tankless WH because twice when our tanks failed they flooded our 1-story house on a slab. If your WH is in the basement, I doubt it is worth it to change to a tankless.

Tankless WHs require periodic descaling with vinegar and they do not supply the flow rate of hot water that most Americans are used to. If you are having a problem with running out of hot water for multiple simultaneous and sequential showering, the best solution is to install low flow shower heads and encourage shorter showers.


Why isn't my Genie keypad communicating with my Genie garage door opener? I've followed the steps outlined on the keypad.

press 3,5,7 prog

enter keycode between 3-8 digits, hit prog

press the learn button on the garage door opener

while the learn button light is blinking, enter the code and press the open button.

My issue is at this step.  The learn button light starts blinking, but when I enter the code, it doesn't turn from blinking to constantly on.  It seems the keypad is not communicating with the opener.  Any thoughts?

EDIT:

I know that the garage door will open and that it can receive wireless communication because I have a working wireless opener. It is also wired to an opener within the garage that can turn on the lights and open/close it.

Your best bet is to call Genie customer service. They will be able to confirm if the keypad is truly compatible with your exact model opener. They can walk you through all possible troubleshooting steps while on the phone, and what the next step would be if they can't resolve your problem. The one time I called them the time on hold was minimal and I was not endlessly transferred around to find the right person.


Round or half-round files sold by radius? I'm trying to find a half or full-round file of a particular diameter, but it seems to be rarely mentioned (and when it has been, they've been much smaller than I'm looking for).

Are they just not made/advertised/sold this way because they're not expected to be used for such precision - or is there a different term for similar large instruments that might be available in a range of diameters?

Files are not a precision tool, so they come in a big variation of sizes. If you want a specific size, there are numbered drill bits , letter drill bits and fractional drill bits. Each drill bit above has a ream to make it exact size.


Is a California corner as strong as 3 or 4 stud corner? I want to build the best exterior corners for a house in a high wind (wind not earthquake) area.  I will not ever use a 2 stud corner with clips for multiple reasons.  However I would like to use a California corner (2nd example) instead of a 3 or 4 stud (last example) exterior corner if the 2nd option will be as strong?  The physics seems to rely on the the direction the wind comes from and which wall is bracing from that direction of wind.  So I get that, but I want to know if the 3 stud corner would be as strong as the other option?  There is less surface area to nail to.  This would be 2x6 construction.

Wind damage to the house is not likely to result from bending of the wall studs, even at the corners. Wind-induced damage will occur at the joints between the studs and the soles or caps.

The exterior sheathing is what will provide stiffness and stability to the entire structure. Use the design that will allow the maximum area of attachment between the corners and the sheathing. The "four stud" corner provides the maximum nailing area on both outside surfaces.

The "California" corner requires that the sheathing on one of the walls be nailed to the 1.5" narrow edge of a stud. Many framers will not build two-stud or three-stud corners, not because they are more likely to bend, but because they provide insufficient nailing surface.


What could be causing drainage issues in our new bathroom? We had a bathroom reassembled in stages. The bathroom functioned when we moved in 17 years ago but fell apart over time. So we had the floor re-leveled then we had new plumbing and a stall shower installed. Then we had sink, new flooring and toilet installed. Everything worked for 3 days without issue. On day 4, I went to the bathroom and then got in the shower. The shower drain slowed to a crawl and the bottom of the shower filled with water which stayed after I got out. I flushed the toilet after getting which caused it to just fill up and not drain. The toilet does drain down slowly over time. Now the shower always fills up and the toilet only flushes if no one has done anything in there for at least 6 or 7 hours. Even then it rarely flushes down.

The venting for the piping is on the sink which is the first in line moving to the right. Toilet is next and shower is last. I have run the sink and heard the toilet bubble. I have flushed the toilet and watch water back up into the shower. The sink has never backed up from running it.

Is it possible the shower sunk down from use after the first 3 days?
Is it possible something is blocking the line somewhere?
Would anything short of dismantling the whole new bathroom help?
Could the venting be moved to the shower without destroying the new bathroom, if that is that solution?

We want to use this new bathroom so we can now renovate the old one and repaint and redo fixtures. Can any harm come from using it regularly until old bathroom is renovated (aside from the obvious toilet issues)?

I think the plumber will need to snake that drain (again), perhaps with a bigger snake. They should snake from the cleanout under the toilet towards the sewer or septic tank (whichever you have).


How bad is it to have wet insulation? With this recent blizzard we recently saw our ceiling lighting fixture leaking water (slow, about 1 drop every 5 minutes)

I got up in the attic and saw that some snow had been apparently blown into the attic through one of the vents. I removed about 2 handfuls of snow from on top of the insulation, but 2 of the pieces were still damp.  Should I remove them? Or will they dry up soon enough? Are there any problems with that?

Also, should I do something to seal up the electrical box from the attic?

If your insulation is damp, chances are good it could freeze or stay damp for a while.  If not too much is involved, it would be a good idea to remove it to a warm place to dry out, or simply replace it.  Never a good idea to leave wet material against ceiling drywall.  It could dampen and ruin the drywall. If left too long, mold or mildew could result.  The snow coming through the vents is probably an isolated event.  Don't close the vent.  Maybe just lay a sheet of 4 mil plastic over the insulation to keep snow off your insulation.  Keep an eye on it.  If it happens often, consider a better louvered/screened vent fixture that won't allow snow to blow in as easily.


Can I install a new dishwasher or are there code changes I’m getting a new dishwasher with the intention of directly replacing my existing one from 15+ years ago. However I’m seeing conflicting descriptions of what is up to code, so I’m hoping someone can help.

My current dishwasher is hardwired and has no power shutoff anywhere near. I’m not home so can not check whether it is a dedicated line or 15A or 20A, or whether it has GFCI. The drain line has a high loop, not air gap, before draining to a disposal.  However the Home Center I bought the appliance from says it must be a plug connection, must be GFCI, must be air gapped, and of course wants to sell me more in installation than the dishwasher costs. Looking around here and other sites I see the opposite, as well as plenty saying it is my choice.

So, in Massachusetts, is it up to code:

if it’s not a dedicated circuit, am I required to upgrade?
if it’s not 20A circuit, am I required to upgrade?
to direct wire, or does it need to be plugged in?
if direct wired, does it need a visible shut off?
to GFCI or not?
use the existing high loop, or does it need an air gap?

I’ll do whatever I need to but obviously am hoping to just install the same way the current one is. Can you help clarify the requirements?

In general you do not have to upgrade when replacing an installed appliance, but I cannot speak for your state or municipality. In my state there is no need for even a permit as long as it is a replacement or repair. Unless there is a code violation or you simply want to upgrade for a more safe installation.

When I say code violation that would be the effective code that was in place during its installation. The famous "Grandfather clause".

Good luck


Decrease dust in an old house, forced air My house was built in 1940.  I have noticed the forced air pushes out a lot of dust.  This is evident from lint collecting on the bathroom vanity below a vent.  It only collects lint during Summer and Winter when the forced air is blowing.  I change the air filter every month but there's still significant dust.  How effective would it be to hire someone to clean the vents?  Is there a DIY option?

I've heard the amount of dust depends on how tightly the house is built.  This makes me think that with such an old home, cleaning the vents would only be a temporary fix.

i would suggest having an HVAC contractor visit to examine all of your ductwork.  My guess would be there are wholes, gaps, or rips in the ducts whereupon the system in operation is pulling the dust in from wall cavities, basement or attic (depending on where the ductwork runs).  Once the contractor (or yourself) seals up and/or replaces any ductwork then you could consider having them vacuumed out.  Also, you should probably put this high on your priority list because interior air quality is really important for controlling allergies and general health.  Good luck!


Adding an Electrical Outlet when original is in conduit (what do I do with the ground?) My home was built in 2015 and all of the electrical wiring is in conduit and there are no ground wires.  I am looking to add another electrical outlet in our bedroom for a wall mounted TV.  I used the last receptacle in the series and have wired up both outlets already.  What do I do with the ground wire that I brought into the box with the existing outlet that I am tapping off of?

It's apparent the contractor is using the conduit system as a ground. You didn't mention what you are using for the extension but I am assuming it's some sort of approved cable. You can attach the ground to the box the existing receptacle is in. You will find a threaded 10/32 hole in the back of the box. You can purchase a ground screw at just about any hardware store.

I must caution you that if you are in a municipality that only allows conduit systems in houses you should install expansion's in like systems.

Hope this helps, good luck.


Corroded Neutral into Service Box I live in a mobile home park. Just recently I turned on my garbage disposal and the crackling of electricity made me rush to turn it off. I noticed smoke down the hall in my laundry.....my dryer exhaust vent had caught fire. The smell of burning wire was extreme. Management said it was the wiring in my walls. Everytime I tried to turn something on it would cause my overhead lights to brighten than blow. I got scared and left. 11 days later they fixed the corroded neutral. My question is because of the excessive uncontrolled electricity flowing through my trailer are the existing wires damaged? Some appliances only partially blew while other's got fried. Why?

This is a short question for a long answer. I am going to assume that you live in a mobile home or manufactured housing unit that has aluminum wiring in it. And what you are experiencing is the eventual deterioration of that type of system.

You need to inspect and repair all of the wiring termination, starting from you panel and continue all the way to your last outlet. If you do not feel you have the experience to complete the task yourself I would advise you find a trusted contractor and employee them to do it.

I am sorry to deliver the bad news but your situation requires immediate inspection and repair to prevent further damage to your system. It may be at an expense you were not prepared but I feel it must be dealt with.

Sorry to deliver the bad news. I wish you the best of luck.


Replacing 60-year old light switch - which wires go where? A light switch in my house won't go to the off position, so I need to replace it.  Every direction I've read about how to do this says to keep the wires in the same configuration (top, bottom, ground), but the old switch is strange, and I don't see anything about this configuration.

I have attached some photos.  There are three wires attaching to two spots on the switch.  On the left side, two black wires are both attached to the same point, and on the right side, one red wire is attached.

Any thoughts on which wire should go where would be appreciated.

If more information about where the wires are each coming from would be helpful, please let me know, and I would be happy to give more detail.

Thanks!

Robert

Based on the photograph, I'd say the black wires are feeding voltage from the panel (hot) and carrying the voltage onto another switch or outlet. The red wire is presumably going to the light (load).

You need to connect the black wires to one screw of the new switch and the red to the other. Leave the green (ground) screw unconnected.

It's generally not good to put two wires under one screw as was previously done. Better to add a pig-tail: a third short wire to the switch. Connect the two blacks and the other end of the pigtail together with a wirenut.


Service Entrance Breakers Rain Shield This is our townhouse (5 house) service entrance. We only put plastic sheet above to partially cover it from rain, but when it is strong, the breakers got wet (this being going on for the past 20 years). Any idea what kind of glass or cover to put inside to prevent rain from wetting it (raining season coming in 2 months). We can't replace the panels because it would require so much city hall paperworks (even replacing a breaker needs city hall permit) and the neighbors won't cooperate putting up money for the repair or any power interruption.

See the gutter above the meters?   Yeah?   The thing below the meters where the breakers are, used to be a gutter just like that.   It has completely rotted out.

Your best bet here is to fully enclose this area in a "shed" with a roof that will shed rain, solid sides, and doors that latch and seal.  You can put this together out of plywood, prime, paint and caulk it.  The weird cage around it - just like that, but with solid wood.


What's the best way to measure for crown moulding and trim I've been putting up a lot of trim lately (baseboards, quarter-round, chair rail, crown moulding, etc). The problem I'm having is getting precise measurements that each piece should be cut to.

I'm using a 25' tape measure to determine the length of trim, but going from an inside corner to inside corner requires a "bunching" of the tape measure at one end...and that last quarter of an inch or so is just guesswork.

This has been leading to a lot of trips back and forth to the miter saw as I cut a piece long and then consecutively shave off fractions of an inch to get it right. This is compounded by the fact that I have to do the same thing with the mitered mates at either end.

So, my question is about the best method to measure between two inside corners for the purpose of cutting mitered trim.

Note that I'm not having a problem actually cutting the length accurately. I've gotten pretty good at using the miter saw to make a cut where I want. It's just that the lengths that I think I want aren't always turning out so correct.

Measure in a foot or so from one inside corner and make a mark. Then measure from the opposite corner to your mark. Add the two measurements together for the full length.

Note that this process is shown with pictures over on the blog.


Can I use a router on a vertical surface? I am investigating routing scoop handles on some pocket doors that have already been installed. Is this possible? I would be using a CNC cut template clamped to the door.

Here is what I'm trying to do:

Can I use a router on a vertical surface? Anything else I should know?

Routers are very handy tools and can be used for some amazing things but can also be very dangerous if not operated in a manner where you can easily maintain 100% total control over the tool at all times.

While it may be technically feasible to operate a router on a vertical surface I would be tempted to recommend against it in this case. The reason is that the doors you show will end up being partially open once you try to clamp on the template to one of the doors. This leaves the door in a not so secure and firmly placed position which could lead to disaster (to you and/or the door) should the router grab the material in the cut such as can happen it making a climb cut.

It would be far better to simply remove the screws that hold the doors in place and locate each door in turn to a solid work horizontal work surface. There you can securely clamp the door to the work surface so there is no chance for it to move around during the routing application. In the horizontal work position you also can have both hands on the router to focus the job of moving the router around from a comfortable body position. In the vertical position the cuts most likely are not at an ideal height and you are having to change your body position up or down during the cut whilst at the same time having to control the weight of the router in addition to moving it around.


Outlets not working but have power Ok, once again thanks for the help with my last problem which stemmed from this the original problem.

Here it goes.

Half my garage doesn’t have power. Well let me rephrase. None of the outlets are working in half my garage. They set off the no touch volt meter. I checked them with a multi-meter and they are all reading zero.

I changed out the plugs on two outlets no luck. Although the last outlet before they stop is only working in one plug.

I believe they are on a different circuit maybe. If that’s what u call it. I believe instead of jumping from one to next where my owner stops has its own wires. I’m gonna draw up a sketch of garage and put in here.

They set off the no touch volt meter. I checked them with a multimeter and they are all reading zero.

Combining these, you may have a situation where both prongs of the outlet are at 120V:

the multimeter shows no voltage between the prongs
the no-touch meter measures an electromagnetic field.

If this is true, you have a wiring fault and it's time to call a licensed electrician.