heavy duty workbench leg from metal pipe? I need to fabricate a heavy-duty leg for a workbench.  It needs to be about 30" high, with adjustable height (that is, with something like a foot with a threaded stud that can be rotated to fine-tune its height).  I haven't engineered this with any precision, but I'd say that it should be able to easily handle 100lbs of load.
It seems like galvanized pipe or black pipe would be a good choice - very strong and not terribly expensive - probably 3/4" or 1" trade size.  The upper end will be attached to a piece of steel angle, probably with u-bolts. I can imagine several ways of making the bottom end adjustable (to fine-tune the overall height).

Use an end cap at the bottom, and drill and tap that for an off-the-shelf adjustable furniture foot.  However, would the metal in galvanized or black pipe fittings be suitable for drilling and tapping ?  Somehow I imagine it as being too hard and/or too brittle.   OTOH, threads were cut onto ends of the pipe, and into other fittings such as the end caps, so maybe this is a stupid question - or maybe not, maybe special machining was used.

Use a threaded floor flange.  But it will rest against a nice hardwood floor, so it'd need some padding of sorts to protect the floor, especially when it's rotating.   And I'm not sure how much adjustability it would provide, that is, how long the threaded portion of a floor flange is.

Use some sort of conical piece of steel - definitely suitable for thread-cutting or already threaded - that could be pressed into the bottom end of the black pipe.

And finally: could PVC pipe be suitable ?  I'm sure at a sufficient diameter, and possibly using Schedule 80, it would be strong enough.   But would threads cut into PVC plastic be able to handle the sort of loads I require ?
Any suggestions or answers to be above are appreciated.

I would put a threaded floor flange on each leg and use that. It also has the added benefit of having a slightly wider base than the cap would and it would have a flat bottom, since it's designed to sit flush against a surface, while the cap is not designed for that.
A threaded cap would work, as well, using the threading as your height adjustment. It may not be completely flat, however, so this might not be ideal (allowing for some of the rocking you're trying to adjust out) and concentrating weight on smaller spots, increasing the likelihood of damaging the floor below.
You could drill a hole in the end cap, tap it appropriately, and run an adjustable furniture foot into each one. This would take a lot more work, however, and would only be of value (IMHO) if you needed more adjustment range than the cap itself could provide. If you do this, you'll have the adjustment range provided by the cap and by the foot, so if you were to set the table outside on a lumpy lawn, you could probably get it leveled even there.
If you use a floor flange, you could lap it smooth using some wet/dry sandpaper on glass until it was smooth enough for you to feel that it won't damage the floor. By doing this, you might not feel it's necessary to provide any protection between the metal and the floor. If you do, be sure to ease the edge - as you're flattening the bottom, you'll also be creating a sharp corner that could scratch the floor or scrape a bare toe.
For any of the metal-on-floor solutions, you could use felt of an appropriately dark color (black to match the metal, or brown to match the floor) as a pad to protect the floor from the wood. I would think that a good double-sided carpet tape would hold the felt on just fine. The cap may need to be smoothed for additional stability and that would have the added benefit of helping the felt to stick better.
I can't envision your third "conical piece of steel" option, so I'm not sure what you're after there, but, all-in-all, it sounds more complex than either of the two above.


Is it safe to pass a natural gas hose under a wooden step, and to keep it pressurized? Is it safe to take a flexible natural gas hose such as the one pictured and pass it under a patio's wooden stairs to reach a BBQ? Can it simply lie on the concrete under the patio?

Can you ever leave a hose such as the one pictured pressurized overnight, or must you always turn off the incoming gas, rather than simply turning off at the BBQ?
Suppose you're hardy and intend to broil something once in a while in freezing temperatures, can such a hose be left outside over winter?

Before we get in to the answers to your specific questions, you first need to read the instructions that come with the hose and whatever you hook it up to. For example, the hose may not be rated for continuous outdoor UV exposure. And your grill probably says to turn off the gas at the source; the burner valves are not designed to hold up against supply pressure indefinitely.

  Is it safe to take a flexible natural gas hose such as the one pictured and pass it under a patio's wooden stairs to reach a BBQ? Can it simply lie on the concrete under the patio?

That should be fine. Just make sure it's not easily stepped on, or rubbing against an edge. And don't let water freeze on it.

  Can you ever leave a hose such as the one pictured pressurized overnight, or must you always turn off the incoming gas, rather than simply turning off at the BBQ?

No. You need to turn the hose off when it's not in use. If this were connected to a cylinder it would be less of an issue since the cylinder has a fixed volume of gas. But since this is hooked up to a gas supply line, it could be days or weeks before a leak is noticed, potentially creating a huge pocket of trapped gas.

  can such a hose be left outside over winter?

Check the ratings on the hose.


Trying to Lay New Trim Straight I removed an old piece of trim that was installed cockeyed by someone else. It was a 1"x6" board that ran across and was nailed to shiplap wood behind it. The problem is that it was about 1/2" proud of the above drywall on the left side, but was flush with the drywall on the right side. How can I attach new trim so that it's nice and even all the way through? I was going to get some trim that goes up and covers the bottom of the drywall, but my concern is that when I nail the bottom of the trim to the wood, it will be angled if I don't put wood directly behind it. I've provided some pictures to show what it looks like both with and without the 1x6 board.
With board:

Without board:

The best thing to do is shim the studs that the baseboard is nailed to.
If the difference is 1/2" then add a 1/2" piece of wood to the stud on the right side of the picture.  Use a straight edge from the newly shimmed stud to the stud on the far left, measure and install shims to the studs in between to get out the same distance.  I can't tell what the wood is that is behind the baseboard - I can see some studs.  You don't need to shim all the wood just every 16" ( standard spacing for studs ) and just mark the floor so you know where to nail.
If the distance is fractional you can do other things like take wood screws with flat heads and use those to hold the baseboard off the surface of the studs.  You probably want two screws so the baseboard is held off in a reasonably firm way - one at maybe 1/4" shy of the top and one 1/4" shy of the bottom ( just choose a height that you can avoid when you trim nail the baseboard to the studs ).
It looks like you are re-doing your flooring.  Put the baseboards on after the flooring.


Gas fireplace not lighting I have a gas fireplace which worked when we bought the house, but after turning off the fireplace for just over 4 years, it does not want to turn back on (the igniter does not glow).
From what research I have done, it appears that we have a fireplace that does not contain a pilot switch but instead it has a intermittent pilot ignition system. The fireplace has a wall on/off switch and a on/off switch on the Honeywell sv9501m2528 smart valve.
When I turn everything on, which is basically

turn the wall switch in a on position,
turn the switch on Honeywell smart valve controller in on position, and * turn the gas valve on

All I hear is a little buzzing noise coming out of the transformer.
The way the wiring is done on this fireplace is that, the power coming out of the wall with around 120V goes into 2 of the "LINE" ports on the transformer and then the power coming out of the transformer with 24V goes from the "LOAD" ports on the transformer to the Honeywell sv9501m2528 smart valve.
I have taken a few pictures to show how this system is setup currently. I am wondering if anyone has any pointers on what I can try to DIY fix this.
Below are the things i have done so far:

replaced the igniter - model Honeywell Q3400A1024
used millimeter to measure voltage going through the system. I am getting around 124V going into the transformer (one thing I am not sure if its expected to be this way is, even though there are 2 cables from power line from wall plugged into the "LINE" ports on the transformer, only 1 of them is registering 124V the other one is not showing any voltage at all), and then the 2 ports from the igniter plug on the Honeywell sv9501m2528 smart valve are registering 29V coming out going to the igniter, which basically tells me that the power is flowing correctly?

Please let me know if there are any additional details I can provide.

You indicated that you replaced the igniter/flame rod and that you're getting 29v to the igniter. That 29v should cause the igniter to glow red and the smart valve should sense this and open the valve to the pilot releasing the gas flow. The fact that you're getting 29v to the igniter indicates that the transformer is working properly. Since you have voltage but the smart valve is not releasing gas to the pilot your only recourse is to replace the smart valve. According to Honeywell the smart valve cannot be repaired but must be replaced in it's entirety.
Edit: I did more research on your model. At this point I'm convinced that the smart valve needs to be replaced. I am attaching a link to a troubleshooting guide from Honeywell that supports that diagnosis. It's for the 40" model instead of the 36" but the ignition mechanisms are the same. The ignition is electronic not millivolt. Although you're getting a 29v output to the igniter it isn't operating the gas valve which is in the smart valve. The Honeywell part number is 62L1801. Below is a link to the part - it's expensive. You might try used.
https://www.allpartsinc.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Honeywell+62L1801
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/170931/Superior-B-40ren.html?page=15#manual
Replacing the gas valve will obviously entail redoing the gas connections. If you're uncomfortable doing that you may want to bring in a technician.


How do I figure what height I need for my egress window wall? I have an egress window. I would like to know why they sent me a 46'' tall well and a 48'' window? I need to know how to figure meausurements and why.

The minimum height of the window is specified in code, and so is fairly standard.  And is not typically influenced by the well dimensions.

The bottom of the window must be within a specific height above the basement floor.  The well has to go from that depth, to at least finished grade level.  So that's what determines the size of the well, not the window.

The code also states that if a well is deeper than a certain depth, a ladder or stairs must be included (to get out of the hole).  So I would assume the manufacturer made the well less than that height purposefully, so as not to have to include a ladder.

Measure from the basement floor, to the maximum code specified height of the bottom of the window. Then from there, to grade level.  If the second measurement is greater than 46", you'll need a deeper well.


What reasons could cause my Bosch dishwasher to periodically fail to fully clean dishes? I have a Bosch dishwasher (model SHX46A05UC/43) that occasionally fails to get all the soap scum off of the dishes. It seems like it fails to fully finish cleaning once every five to ten cycles.

I feel like it might be something to do with the heater. The cycles the dishes do get fully clean, the dishes are almost too hot to touch at cycle end, while following cycles where the dishes are not fully clean, the dishes are only warm.

The heater is capable of working, as during testing I observed water temperatures around 150°F mid-cycle.

Things I have confirmed:

Pump: Opening the dishwasher while it's running shows the arms
spinning and spraying. Water fully is removed from basin after the
cycle is finished
Arms: I have removed and cleaned the arms and they
    don't seem to be clogged.
Traps and drains: appear to be cleaned are not gunked up.

Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? The inconsistency in the issue is making it hard to track down.

After a few months of rerunning failed washes, I found the issue... I hope.

I disassembled the dishwasher's front and removed the control board. Upon close inspection there were two dead/fried ants (yes, the insect) on the bottom of the control board near the pins for the relay the heater. This relay is already unreliable in this dishwasher model and I have fixed it before.

One of the solder joints connecting the relay looked like a cold solder joint. Cold solder joints can sometimes have intermittent connection issues so I was hopeful that this was the issue. I suspect the ants were in there during a run and caused the pins to arc which melted the solder joints.

I removed the solder from the joints and re-soldered the pins. I reassembled the dishwasher and have had two successful runs so far. Fingers crossed this resolves the issue.


Cabinet hinge broke, what are my options? One of my kitchen cabinet's hinges broke. Luckily I found a replacement part on the original manufacturer's website (#50 90-degree hinge).

However it's $33 and not the exact same dimensions, so I'd need to drill out the hole to make it larger.

Should I just buy them, or are there other options that might be better? Perhaps different hinges, or an alternate seller?

Remove one and see if you can get a part number and manufacturer name.  That will narrow your search.  Usually companies like Rockler (who sells hardware for cabinets) have a wider choice available than a big box store.


What is the size of light bulb for my ceiling fan, socket number E307185? My ceiling fan has an unusual size fixture. It's larger than candelabra, but smaller than a standard medium. I suspect it might be intermediate, but I'm not quite willing to buy a converter with a huge shipping cost until I can get it confirmed. The brand is Hampton Bay. The fixture has a number E307185. Bonus points if you can find a method to convert the light bulb to a standard medium light bulb.

That's an intermediate base.  I found them on Amazon.  http://www.amazon.com/Watt-Light-Bulb-Intermediate-Clear/dp/B000QUXZTC


What is This White PVC Pipe in My Yard? There is a white PVC pipe sticking out of the ground in my yard. It must have been put there when the house was built, before I was the owner.

What is this pipe for? It is about 4 or 5 inches in diameter and has a cap glued into the top to seal it. Or at least I think it is glued as I cannot seem to pull the cap off.

I think it might be related to the outdoor drainage system as the downspouts seem to pour into similar white PVC pipe. But if this is supposed to be some sort of access pipe, I can't figure out why it is sealed.

The reason why I am asking is because I want to dig out around the pipe, cut it off below ground level, re-seal it, and bury it under a layer of flagstones. It is right in the way and I keep tripping over it.

They can be quite hard to remove even if not glued.  I'd assume it is a cleanout.

Remove the top (I usually use a hammer and a piece of wood to bang under the lip--you'll have to dig a bit).  If the top does not come off, just cut it off with a reciprocating saw. You can always put another cap on or get a coupling if you need more length.  Once the cap is off you can yell into it and have someone listen to your rain drain risers to see if it is connected.

If it smells or you can't hear the other person it could be a sewer cleanout.

You could keep it right at the level below the flagstone and have a removable flagstone if you want to keep the cleanout some what accessible.


Bathroom cabinet door fix How on earth can I fix this cabinet door? My 13 year old used the door as a knee rest and the hinge popped out and damaged the cabinet wall. Is there a quick fix even if it's not permanent?

Wow! That is unfortunate.

The material is particle board and has been badly damaged. Since the cabinet is against the wall repairing it would be very difficult without removing the cabinet first.

I would try to move the hinge. Preferably, to the top of the door if you have enough space for the hinge. If not move it below the damaged area. You may have to drill very small, maybe 1/16", shallow pilot holes for the screws to get them started but you could try driving the screws without this first.

Have the 13 year old help you so he/she can learn to fix their mistakes and how much work it takes.

Good,luck!


How often do septic tanks typically need to be pumped? At the risk of potentially asking an off-topic question, I'd like to better understand the maintenance of a septic tank.  I've never had one before and am unfamiliar with how to manage one.

My primary question is: how often do septic tanks need to be pumped? We're looking to buy a 4/2 house with a concrete septic tank "supposedly" with a capacity of 2250.

My secondary question is: how should septic tanks monitored? Just an annual scheduled service check-up? I don't want to spend money needlessly but also don't want to neglect something that needs regular attention.

The pumping question depends on your local codes.  In our area, a brand new tank is good for 5 years before it needs to be pumped.  A non-new tank must be pumped every 3 years.  This is pretty typical.

I would say that tank monitoring will vary depending on your system.  A septic tank is a pretty simple system.  You have a primary tank (some call it a settling tank) that settles any solids out of the wastewater, and where most of your breakdown occurs (a well operating system will have natural occurring bacteria that do a good job of breaking down "solid" waste).  As an aside, this settled goo is the majority of what is pumped out when the pump guy comes.

Usually, there is a second tank that is gravity fed, where the now "grey water" flows.  From here, the grey water sits for a while (more breakdown occurs here) and it either feeds by gravity to a drain field, where it filters through the ground, or, it is pumped to a mound/elevated drain field.

In a simple non-pump system, you want to watch out for clogging in the outlets to the secondary tank and to the drain field.  This can be done pretty easily- when you have the manhole covers replaced, ask the guy doing the work for you to tell you how for down from the top of the manhole, the drain is.  Now, as often as you want, put a stick down the manhole, and see how deep the water is.  If the water is above the drain, you have a blockage, and it should be serviced.

If you have a system with a pump, I'd highly recommend getting an alarm if one isn't installed already.  The alarms will alert you if the level of the water goes above a specified height, which indicates a clogged pump or filter.

My recommendation would be to do your own monitoring (checking water level) as often as makes you comfortable, and have a scheduled service every 2-3 years.

More important than monitoring however, is making sure you are diligent with prevention.  Use as little toilet paper as is practical, and stay away from quilted TP.  Additionally, nothing but toilet waste, water, and TP should EVER go down your drains (the exception to this is if you have a food disposer, but even then, I'd use the disposal sparingly).  Also, try not to use too harsh of chemicals when doing cleaning of your sinks/toilets/showers, and NEVER use draino.. there are cleaning products that are septic friendly, and septic friendly drain de-cloggers.  Use them.  This keeps the bacterial ecosystem breaking down your waste, nice and happy, which is a good thing.


How do I patch a 3'x3' hole in a ceiling made up of plaster, lath, and metal mesh? I've fixed leaks above my plaster-and-lath-and-chicken-wire ceiling, and now I need to fix the ceiling below it.

The ceiling is a sandwich of wood lath on top, then 1/4" of solid plaster, then chicken wire, then more plaster. The latter plaster layer is peeling off in sheets because it's not a solid layer like the upper one, but instead it's layered with several coats. The lath is in good shape and not rotted.

I'm not sure I'm ready for the amount of work required to replace the entire ceiling with drywall (or to cover the ceiling with drywall). Ideally I could just patch the bad area of the ceiling, which is about 3 feet square.

What's the recommended way to do such a large patch to a plaster ceiling? Should I leave the chicken wire and put 1/4" drywall on top of it? Or remove all plaster? Any other suggestions?

The fact that sections are peeling off indicates that there is a structural problem with the overall "sandwich."

In any repair, unless you can overcome the structural deficiencies with an overriding mechanism, you have to strip back the unsound sections until you get to good structure.  With you description , it is hard to see where that is.

You could knock loose all the compromised sections and then try to patch the open areas, but it sounds like the overall lathe-plaster-chicken wire-plaster amalgam may be questionable. You may do this and shortly thereafter find a new section that is failing.

I think that a drywall overlay may be the simplist, fastest and cheapest solution, by far. Whether you strip down to the chicken wire or to the lathe depends on how much of the ceiling is loose/compromised.  If height is not a problem, dislodge whatever is loose, use shim to insure level and then screw up thin drywall over the whole ceiling. DO NOT USE NAILS! If you hit studs, great, but the lathe should be adequate to hold a thin wallboard lamination.


Where should I attach the blower motor leads on a Payne air handler? About 8 months ago my daughter's Payne PF1MNB036000AAAAA air handler quit working. The blower would not come on.  I decided that it needed a new board so since she needed heat I disconnected the blower leads, one yellow and one blue and attached a cord to it to provide 110vac power to the blower making it run all the time.  I then ordered a new board.

I have just now got around to putting in the new board but forgot where I disconnected the yellow and blue motor leads (have female disconnects).  I think the blue one attaches to the black relay on the board but I can't figure out where the yellow one clips onto a male connector.  Help, please.

Blue is a speed tap and yellow is common or L2   There should also be a red and black wire coming from the motor that should be capped off unless the motor has been changed.
A picture of the board and wiring diagram would help. It looks from the very poor wiring diagram I found that the yellow wire would go to K1 and the blue would go to NO but like I said the diagram wasn’t very specific.


Replacing single pole light switch with dimmer I'm trying to replace a single pole light switch with a Leviton 6674 dimmer. This dimmer has four wires including the ground wire and a wire which is tagged and used for three-way applications which I won't be using. The problem is the old light switch did not have a ground wire attached nor do I see one loose in the metal enclosure box. I've been searching online for a similar wiring setup as this but can't seem to find it. I am just wondering how to properly install and ground this dimmer. The box enclosure is metal and I noticed two screws inside and at the back of the box with three different bare wires attached to these screws. I assume I will have to attach the ground wire from the dimmer to one of these screws. The left screw has one bare wire attached that originates from the top left corner of the back of the metal enclosure while the right screw has two bare wires attached that originate from the top right and bottom right of the back of the metal enclosure. It's difficult to see the wiring setup with the photos I took and the paint discolouring some of the wires so I included a rough drawing of the setup to help visualize it. I would include more photos but I am limited to two. The home in which this fixture is located is nine years old so I would like to assume that they wired it to fairly recent standards. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

If it were me, I'd take all the grounding wires out from under the screws.  Then I'd collect up all the grounding wires, including the one from the new dimmer, and an extra bit (6" or so) of spare bare wire of the same size.  Using a twist-on wire connector, I'd connect all the grounds together.  Finally I'd slip the other end of the short bit of wire (pigtail), under one of the screws in the back of the box.

This way all the grounds are bonded, and you're not relying on the metal box as a fault current path.


Recommendations for search terms - insulate wall between duplex units I have one half of a duplex, which is separated by a brick wall (looks like a triple brick?). While refinishing my basement,  I'm trying to determine the insulation requirements in my local building code (Ontario, Canada), but no matter what I punch into google I cant find the right reference.

Can anyone suggest the search term I should be using to find the correct part of my local code?

Thanks!

There actually aren't any (at least in the Model Codes)

The reason you're coming up empty handed is because the Code makers, by and large, have not addressed this when writing energy conservation codes.  Party (common) walls are generally not considered part of the building thermal envelope, which is actually rather OK, as insulating them poses special challenges.

From the Building America Solutions Center page on the topic (italics in original):

  The model energy codes do not address minimum insulation requirements for common walls because the common wall is not defined as part of the building thermal envelope.

If you want to insulate and/or air seal them, you must respect the wall's fire rating and listing when insulating in order to be Code compliant.  You may wish to speak with your AHJ on this, especially considering that you are dealing with an older style of party wall which behaves differently from modern residential party walls.


Where should the main stack vent go? Where does my primary stack vent go? Does it have to be at the end of the run? I have a pretty simple plumbing system. From the highest point to where the drain enters the house (lowest) I have

Tub, then bathroom sink, toilet, kitchen sink, laundry, exit to sewer.

I'd like to put my main stack as the vent on the bathroom sink. Is that ok even though tub is higher up on the run?

My code says:

  Vent connection at base. Every vent stack shall connect to the base of the drainage stack. The vent stack shall connect at or below the lowest horizontal branch. Where the vent stack connects to the building drain, the connection shall be located downstream of the drainage stack and within a distance of 10 times the diameter of the drainage stack.

You have one main stack typically.  All of the plumbing drains into it and goes down.  The venting for the plumbing should be above the highest drain-to-main-stack connection.  The venting goes up - on a typical home it would vent out the roof.  If you had the vents below then you may get water/sewage in them and your house would stink and possibly drains would not function as well.  If you are more specific I can touch on how to do this right.


Can I use a nailer with a higher consumption than my compressor's SCFM rating? Can I run a pneumatic nail gun with a consumption of 4 SCFM max on a small portable 1HP compressor with a SCFM rating of about 3 SCFM @ 90psi? What about tools that with higher SCFM consumption say 5 or 7?

What would I expect if I try to use that setup.

You can use a smaller SCFM compressor than what your nailer requires the only drawback is you will need to nail at a slower pace or your nail set(how deep they are driven) will not be consistant.


How do I replace a 7' drop ceiling so it matches an 8' ceiling with 2 layers of drywall and popcorn texturing? I would like to remove a dropped ceiling and give the room an 8 foot ceiling.  The great room ceiling has 2 layers of drywall already.  I need to repair many areas of the ceiling (remove an attic fan, move ceiling fans, etc.).  I also want to add blown-in insulation.

What is best way to fix this problem keeping in mind the weight to the trusses?

Scrape popcorn, repair holes, and re-texture, and then remove the dropped ceiling in the kitchen and add 1 or 2 layers of drywall to match the 2 layers on the great room ceiling and add blown in cellulose insulation to bring it to R-30.
Remove all layers of drywall (insulation would fall into room) and simply put up one layer of drywall and texture.
Remove the drywall completely (like 2) and install a wood ceiling.

What is the thickness of that second layer of drywall in your great room?  Chances are it's very thin, which you could hide by simply fanning out your joint compound to make a "ramp" 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide where the kitchen meets the great room.  Nobody would ever be able to see the difference.  Another option is to put a fake beam between the two rooms - basically a thin piece of wood trim that looks like a fancy support beam partially buried in the ceiling.  Again, nobody would ever notice the difference in the ceiling heights between the two rooms.

There is a VERY easy way to get rid of the popcorn ceiling.  Get a paint roller with a fairly thick roller sleeve and put it on a long handle.  Dip the roller into a bucket of water, and then "paint" the popcorn ceiling with the water.  Use a bit of pressure to actually get the water into the popcorn, but don't overdo it and soak your drywall underneath.  Let that soak in for a minute or two, and then the popcorn will come right off.  Every time I paint a popcorn ceiling, half the popcorn wants to fall off with the roller, so I tried simply rolling it with water when I wanted to remove the popcorn one time, and it worked great.


Discovered neutral line has juice with breaker off I have a box with 3 switches in it and was replacing 1 switch for a smart switch. I switched off the breaker and verified none of the switches worked. The initial wiring had all the neutral lines in the box all bundled together with a wire nut. Nothing out of the ordinary as far as I know. As I was adding in the neutral wire for the smart switch I found out the fun way that at least one of the neutrals still had juice running in it.

After a bit of trial and error, I found that if I switched off a second breaker, then there was no juice in that box.

Is this okay, or should I get an electrician out here to figure out what is going on? As far as I know, it has been this way since I bought the house a few years back.

Most Likely Not OK
You probably have neutrals mixed up. The one exception is an MWBC (multi-wire branch circuit). I doubt that is the case based on your description), but that is a possibility. Assuming that is not the case:
In addition to the (obvious) hazard when working on wiring, there is another problem. In normal US residential service, neutrals are not protected from an overcurrent condition. Normally this is not a problem as the current on neutral = the current on hot, and hot is protected. However, with two circuits sharing a neutral, there is no guarantee that the neutral currents will equal the hot currents, and this can be very dangerous.
For example, if you have two 20A circuits and each one has a 16A load and the neutral fails on one of them then you will now have 32A on one neutral wire, which is more than the standard 20A circuit wiring is designed to handle. The hots will still have 16A each, so the breakers won't trip. But the neutral wire with 32A will burn up.
In order to fix this, you need to find out where that neutral wire comes from and what hot wires it is paired with. Even though all the switches were off, you may have a hot for another circuit passing through this box that is on the other breaker. If that's the case, it just needs to have its neutral separated from the others. But you may find nothing from the other breaker (except this neutral) in which case you have to look elsewhere, starting with any junction boxes for anything (e.g., lights, receptacles) that is powered by the other breaker and see if you can find something that is connecting back to this box that shouldn't be there.


How to connect low voltage track lighting to line voltage? I want to connect lo-voltage track lighting to the wiring in an
existing wall outlet. Can I do that? Is there enough "power" in that wall
outlet circuit to handle the track heads?

Connecting low voltage lighting to high voltage supply requires a step-down transformer or power supply unit of some kind.  You cannot connect high voltage directly to low voltage lighting; voltage doesn't magically step down that way; it is illegal because it'll cause a fire.

There should be plenty of power.

Your hookup issue is mostly mechanical.   You might use a "wall wart" transformer/power supply that simply plugs into one of the outlets.  Or you could hard-wire it using surface conduit and a spacer that extends the outlet so you make your connection underneath it.


Covering roof vents to keep out roof rats I have around 20 vents on my roof and I currently do not have a roof rat problem but I want to cover them with something to prevent roof rats getting into the attic. I'm sure I can find something at home depot that will do this and still allow the air passage through the netting/mesh that I put over the vents.

My question is about the vent that is used for the dryer. Lint coming out of that vent can attach itself to the covering and create a fire hazard. Is there a safe way to prevent rats from getting into the dryer through this vent?

Dryer vents are often equipped with covers that have louvers, such as this one

While a determined animal might squeeze through or gnaw a hole, it offers some protection.

There are also alternatives that use a spring loaded or weighted round flap under a cover, like this one

Again, same issues. They come in metal and plastic.  The metal may be a bit more animal proof.


PE compared to HVAC license? Can a licensed Professional Engineer (PE), who is legally allowed to sign off on HVAC design, do the HVAC work as though they are a Tradesman themselves?

Can the PE count as a license for things like purchasing HVAC parts from a warehouse? E.g. Why won't HVAC supply stores sell directly to the public?

Would be nice to know the answer both if use of freon/refrigerant, and without, e.g. replacing a fan, capacitor, or something of the sort.

This is an interesting question, and like many of these questions a simple yes or no isn't going cut it.

First, a PE license grants you the right to practice the design and approval of systems, but does not grant you the right to preform certain work. As @Haprer has pointed out the PE must apply for a EPA license and probably a contractors license. So you would have to have more than one license. In my state it does allow a different path to a license. For example, in my state the licensing jurisdiction allows people with a degree in electrical engineering to apply for a master electrical license and foregoes the four year apprenticeship and training. Even then it does not allow you to perform your own work without a contractors license.

Second, would be why would they do it. If you are a practicing PE you are probably trying to move to a career different than that of a contractor. Then there is the matter of liability. As a practicing engineer you or someone has to pay for your professional liability insurance and as a contractor you would have to pay for a different type of liability insurance. Plus the other cost of licenses and professional requirements. It would be like a person becoming a licensed medical doctor and then getting a job as a paramedic. It really doesn't make sense, most would really like to see their careers go the other way.

Third, as far a purchasing, a wholesaler has an entirely different set of rules about who they sell to. They are in the business to sell large amounts of specific equipment and material to a select group of people, and they are usually regulated by the state to only sell to particular parties that are licensed and approved to used certain products. All this requires that purchasers are usually licensed and are approved before purchasing. It's usually on a credit line and invoiced for payment every thirty days, because it is not a cash and carry retail outlet. So there is approval of licenses, credit application and other legal documentation before being granted an account.

So in answer to your questions I give you the ambiguous "it depends", unlikely but not impossible.

Hope this helps


How much of my roof do I need to clear of snow in order to prevent ice damming? How much of my roof do I need to clear of snow in order to prevent ice damming?

I was told 3 feet at one point but now I can't find the source.

You didn't find a correct answer because there is no correct answer, just like there's no correct answer to "how much does a car cost?", or "what should I feed my pet badger?". It depends on several things, so you may need to rely on common sense and trial-and-error.

Your climate (typical temperature range)
Your weather (recent temperatures, sunlight, and snowfall amounts)
Your home's architectural type (roof slope, truss heel design)
Your home's roofing type and age (Does it have water barrier membrane underneath? How far up the slope?)
Your home's sun exposure
Your attic's insulation level
Your attic's ventilation level

You can tell if you've done enough when there's no ice forming below the lower edge of the remaining snow on days when the snow on the ground isn't melting. If the snow on your roof is melting off in that case, it's because there's significant heat escaping your home that's not being ventilated away. That's the source of the problem.

Oh, and it's perfectly possible that the answer is "zero feet".


How do I replace this switch with a timer? I was trying to wire in a timer switch for a vent fan.
When I went to replace the switch (which I knew was a 3 pole) I was baffled by the way it was wire. 4 wires run into the box, two of the hot wires go straight to a switch and the other are marred with 2 other black wires that run back to the neutrals on the switches. All 4 white wire are marred.
Hopefully these pictures below help make more sense, the switch on the left is a light and the switch on the right if for the fan that I want to put a timer on but as it's a 3 way switch, I'm not really certain how to go about determine which wires are hot/common/traveler etc)

http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/mitts14/library/

I've annotated your image...

It's not possible from the image to tell which of the wires marked with red is the feeder from the breaker, and which is the feeder to other devices on the circuit. However, since you're simply replacing a switch with a timer, you'll not have to touch these wires anyway. The neutrals can also be ignored, unless you're installing a "smart" switch that requires a neutral wire.

Without knowing the exact make and model of the timer being installed, it's not possible to provide exact installation instructions. Instead I'll provide basic "typical" installation steps.

Start by turning off the power to this circuit at the breaker/fuse box, and verifying the power is off using a non-contact voltage tester.
Remove the two black wires from the switch you'll be replacing (One marked orange, and one marked blue in the image above).
Throw the now disconnected switch haphazardly over your left shoulder.
Connect a bare or green wire from the grounding screw in the box to the green screw or wire labeled Ground on the device.
Connect the black wire coming from the twist-on wire connector (labeled orange in the image above) to the black screw or wire labeled Common on the device.
Connect the other black wire to the brass screw or wire labeled Load on the device.
(Optionally) If a neutral is required, follow steps 7a - 7c
a. Remove the twist-on wire connectors connecting the neutral wires.
b. Include a short bit of white wire in the bundle, and reinstall the twist-on wire connector (make sure the connector is rated for the proper number of conductors, a new twist-on wire connector may be required).
c. Connect the other end of the short bit of white wire to the silver screw or wire labeled Neutral on the device.
Restore power at the breaker/fuse box.
Turn the fan on/off a few times and marvel at how awesome you are. YOU have harnessed ELECTRICITY!!!

Here's some wiring diagrams from various timers on the market...


Pneumatic die grinder or electric rotary tool Between a pneumatic die grinder:

and an electric rotary tool:

What are the advantage/disadvantage between using each one?

Also, which has more torque?

Pneumatic may be lighter weight, but you need a compressor that can keep up with it, and the exhaust airmay be a good or bad thing depending on what you're doing. On the other hand, compressors have other uses too.

A third option would be a flex-shaft tool.

Before buying any of them, know what you're going to do with it. Unless you have a specific task you need it for, you might be better advised to invest in a completely different kind of tool.


Is this a Direct Vent Water Heater? My contractor asked me to choose a direct vent water heater and have it delivered.  I (generally) understand the difference between direct vent and power vent, having read up on how they both work.

I see that some manufacturers actually have "Direct Vent" as part of the product name.  It appears that either Rheem does not name their products this way, or I have not selected the right product.

Does the fact that the product name and description say nothing about venting mean that it's direct vent?

The model number is XG75T06ST76U0, and a similar product that has "Power Vent" in the name has this model number: XG75T06PV75U0.  "ST" for standard, "PV" for power vent?  Also, the "ST" model is slightly cheaper than the power vent, which would align with the research I've done (that direct vent is slightly cheaper).

I called Home Depot, and they said it is not a direct vent water heater.  When I asked what type of venting it has, they said "it's just a natural gas water heater".  That did not make sense to me.

Product in question:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Performance-75-gal-Tall-6-Year-76-000-BTU-Natural-Gas-Water-Heater-XG75T06ST76U0/204317751?N=5yc1vZc9waZ2bcu0v#product_description

If this is indeed a direct vent water heater, how can you tell?

Standard Vent - no dedicated air intake, a flue exiting the house, almost always through the roof. Not much different from 1920's technology.

Direct Vent - Generally a concentric pipe with air intake in the annulus between pipes, and exhaust in the center. Frequently a horizontal through-wall vent. Will be mentioned in product install literature.


How to extend 5/8" window jamb? The window I just received in special order came with a 5/8" jamb. I'm really upset at that awkward dimension because it makes it difficult to extend it with regular 1xX lumber (actual thickness 3/4").

How should I go about extending it assuming I don't have access to a table planer? I'm thinking to use 1xX and then fill the recession on the window side using wood filler. It's not elegant. Do you have any better ideas?

As a bonus, can anybody actually justify the nonstandard choice of lumber on the factory side? I'm very frustrated.

When I do jamb extensions, I'm butting tight against the existing window frame, but nailing through shims into the rough framing. I offset the jamb extension by about 3/16", and caulk that reveal. In that scenario, the only time 5/8" material in the window frame would be a problem was if the window was tight to any or all of the framing. If that was the case, I'd get 1/2" actual stock (good lumberyard!) and be happy with a 1/8" reveal.

As far as justification for 5/8" stock... well, we seem to be in a race to the bottom with building materials. Anyone that can squeeze a penny here or there makes more money. (The one that made me laugh/cry was the entry door that had hinges double-thick mortised into the jamb and flush mounted on the door. Ta-dah! One less step in the manufacturing process, and it probably only looks terrible to people like me.)


Should I repair or replace a dryer heating element and housing connector? I have a Samsung dryer that has a burnt out heating element.  I purchased a new one and removed the old one from the dryer.  I have no problem with any of this.

My problem is that the element connectors go through the housing and connect to wires through a ceramic piece as shown here:

I broke this piece by accident and I can't purchase this by itself.

Is it safe to super glue it and wrap electrical tape around it?
What purpose does it serve?  I am thinking that it keeps the wires from touching the housing.

The housing (the image) that contains that piece runs from $65 to $100.  I don't need the whole thing but I will purchase if that is my only option.

Any suggestions?

Do you have a picture of the actual damage?

Ceramics are used because nothing else will stand the heat which means that glue or tape will turn to smoke.

And yes it is an insulator which means that it keeps bad things from happening, you do not want anything arcing to ground if it fails.


Retile Shower Floor Only? I want to replace my mosaic tile shower floor. The shower pan is hot mopped. The wall tiles are set on a 3/4 inch mortar bed.

I imagine replacing the floor tile means replacing the hot mop, which means removing the bottom rows of tile and mortar bed. Is it possible to do any of this without gutting the whole bathroom? Is there a way to replace the tiles without damaging the hot mop at all?

Here is a photo of the floor.

 - Here is what's under the floor.

If possible, I would also like to replace the drain with a square one.

Thanks.

What you are asking, I think is not advisable. To remove the tile without damaging the mud base that is over the hot mopped pan is really asking for trouble. To crack it only in just one spot, will require a repair at least, but it would be better to replace the whole pan. But that itself is its own issue. Removing the whole pan would surely pop a hole in the pan. Then you will be into removing the wall tile trying to get to a good place for a waterproofing tie in. That in itself again is tedious at best and doing that while not chipping the neighboring tile??

To me, the only possible solution would be to remove the drain cover, roughen up the existing tile, (right angle grinder and a lot of dust comes to mind), set an extension on the existing drain, lay new tile and reset the existing drain or a new one like the old one that will fit and look new.

To replace the drain with a totally new one will not be possible, since the hot mopped pan is tied to the existing drain. To mess with that to replace it would be disastrous.

Sorry for the doom and gloom, but shower pans and tile are usually, when done right, are a once and done type of thing.


Should this elevated door have trim/casing at the bottom? This door separates a sunken rec room from a den.  It has always struck me as odd that there is trim/casing along the bottom. Is there a better way of handling the trim around the sides, but with no trim at the bottom? Perhaps a stair nose with notches on the sides so it extends to the width of the casing on the sides would be a better choice? I’m looking to either validate that this was already handled well with the trim, or to identify a more typical approach.

I tend to agree that this door would look better if there was a threshold in the bottom of the door opening that included a projection nose out just a smidgen beyond the side casings both in overall side to side length and beyond the surface of said casings.

A door opening like this is a bit of a safety hazard and really should have a "landing" on the low side so that when you are concentrating on getting through the door that you do not get a surprise step up or step down at the same time.


One outlet in house is hot while turning all breakers off One outlet does not appear to be attached to a breaker in the breaker panel.  Only in shutting the main breaker off does that outlet lose electricity.  Is this dangerous?  Is there a remedy?

Definitely dangerous. The main breaker is for a very high amperage (like 100 amps). If there's no other breaker between the main breaker and the outlet, a high amperage would be needed to trip it.

I doubt the wires to the outlet could be sized appropriatedly. And I doubt it is allowed to have a regular outlet on a high amperage breaker.

Maybe a sub-panel or a breaker you missed ?


Attaching Pergola posts to lumber on ground I'm a new homeowner with DIY enthusiasm to improve the outdoor living space. Recently completed build my fence now planning to do a pergola first and then add deck to it so we can enjoy some outdoor space. I have a question about pergola post where instead of concrete footings can I lay 6x6 or 4x6 lumber on the ground with gravel underneath and secure them by driving 12 or 24 inches rebar through wood into the ground and attach the 4 pergola posts to them using bolts. Our winters temperatures generally get down to -5f maximum and we see winds with maximum speeds to 60mph. I have seen videos on YouTube doing this using some fancy connection hardware but I thought using bolts should work. I ask this question as later when I do the deck after pergola it would be a bit easier to build deck. The size of pergola will be 10x10. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Here is a link to one of the videos I saw on Youtube
Pergola Post attached to ground lumber

You say you get winds up to 60 MPH but you don't see a need to have a tall structure anchored in concrete? Sure, most wind will likely whistle right through an open(ish) pergola, but all it takes is one good gust, square on the flat side of the roof joists, and it'll blow right over.
Even if you were to thread the top of the rebar and use nuts & bolts to hold the lumber to the top of the rebar, a 24" piece would pull right out of the ground with a 60 MPH wind pushing on an 8-10 foot tall lever. Additionally, rot (even with pressure treated lumber) will enlarge the holes in your sleepers and the fit between the wood and the steel will get sloppy. The rebar will rust, exacerbating the issue.
I've used rebar through holes in treated landscape timbers as edging for my gravel driveway. I've had to replace the lumber 3 times in less than 30 years. The timbers laying on the ground (granted, they weren't carefully installed with gravel for drainage, but still) rotted out to the point that there was not much left of them. After picking up chunks of rotted wood, it just took one or two hits with a 2 pound hammer to loosen the rebar enough to pull it out of the ground by hand. A perfectly acceptable installation method for something at ground level, but I sure wouldn't want to visit your house knowing that this was all that was securing hundreds, if not thousands, of pounds of lumber over my head.
There's a reason you see people using "fancy connections": A) it's required by code, and B) it's safe. Note that code is often "written in blood" - accidents have happened; engineers have studied what caused the failure; code was updated to require a minimum construction to prevent that kind of failure from happening again.
Frankly, renting a powered auger to drill a few holes for footings (be sure to check for buried utilities before drilling), getting them drilled to below the frost line (again, be sure to check for buried utilities before drilling), inspected (if necessary in your locale), filled with concrete and setting post anchors in them is far cheaper and simpler than the potential damage to people and property if this should fall over. Think of the hospital bills on top of the house repair, and possible lawsuits from people you thought were your friends, should your short cut method fail.


Can I replace a toilet bowl myself? Normally, we'd pay a professional, but -- given the circumstances -- currently we loath bringing a stranger into the house. Likewise, finding anyone willing to go into a stranger's how to replace their toilet may be a problem too.

Is it something I can do myself -- with the help from the rest of the household? The current one is by Toto, and we're no longer "in love" with the pricey brand -- can I order a different one, or is that likely to increase the amount of work to the point of insurmountable?

For example, will the bolts holding the current bowl fit right into the new one, or is that not at all a given, and we should order the exact same model?

Or is a professional pretty much required anyway and we may just as well get a different design?

Yes you can.

You will just need to remove the bolts that are at the bottom of the bowl and then raise the toilet up.  I recommend flushing it first as it'll be lighter.
ALso have a trash bag handy. Although you have flushed the toilet, there's usually still some water in it. I recommend one person lift the toilet up and another person put the bag under the bowl to catch any water that may run out.

Then you'll need to scrap the wax ring off of the pipe in the floor.

Then install a new wax ring in the same location as the previous one. Do not press on it.

Then install your new toilet over the bolts and tighten them.


Can I cause damage to electrical appliances by unplugging them when they are turned on? I don't mean damage caused to the socket and prongs, but only to the appliance itself.

Typically, an appliance will not be damaged if it is currently ON and then you unplug its power cord. If you plug it back in the device will simply resume operation as if it were ON.

I say typically because there are some cases where this may not be the case. There are many devices such as computers and some other electronic devices that almost always recommend that you interact with the device to gracefully shut it down before you think of yanking the power cord out of the wall. This graceful shutdown process ensures that the device has finished all critical internal operations before losing power. This could include operations such as closing open files or saving important system state to a storage memory.

With many of today's appliances having more and more smart electronics, it can be more of a concern that you not arbitrarily pull power cords. A well-designed appliance from a reputable manufacturer will have made provisions in the electronics design and software so that the device does not get bricked when the power is suddenly lost. On the other hand, as more designs are done by less experienced people, this possibility of damaging operation of an appliance by the sudden loss of power is more likely than ever.

To make my case, let me comment that the ever more popular Raspberry Pi (rPi) microcontroller board is leading many people to think of embedding devices like that into appliances and other gadgets. It is a known fact that removing power from an rPi board can brick the boot media on its micro SD card and keeping it from being able to reboot when power is restored.


Changing the pitch of a threaded hole Can I change the pitch of a threaded hole that will accept the diameter of an M6 tap? The current pitch is some off the wall pitch that is not a metric 6 pitch nor the SAE equivalent pitch, the part was made in China.

One way is to drill out, re-tap and fit a helicoil to the required thread. Do make sure that this will be strong enough for the purpose.

Of course, it may be possible to find the correct pitch bolts for the original.


How should I repair old drywall tape seams showing at wall and ceiling? Addition is 18 years old and seams are appearing in ceilings.  Had no issue replacing tape in ceiling test butt joint but, on closer inspection, I see lines in the ceiling tape where the walls meet.

I tested a spot and see that the tape is strongly attached, but there is actually almost no mud covering the tape on the ceiling.  Very faint lines are visible (I live in Chicago with significant climate swings so some settling and movement is to be expected).

Can / should I simply mud over the seams with a corner tool and 20-minute hot mud?  Is it common for subcontractors to use so little mud on ceiling corners like this?

I hate to redo all joints if the tape isn't failing and this is simply cosmetic.

Thanks!

Is it normal for a contractor to use very little mud on a tape joint? Yes the thinner the coat the faster it dries. When recoating I would use topping mud over or instead of hot mud, you won't need much to hide the lines and topping mud is much easier to sand. Since your tape is well attached I would clean the area and skim coat it and sand. I don't use corner tools, usually a wide knife to taper the skim coat.

If you have high humidity in the room this may have caused the problem and a thin skim coat should last longer than the original because of the additional mud.


My fridge runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level? My refrigerator runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level?  It doesn't seem to be any other reason.

A fridge motor is controlled by a thermostat - a device that reacts to temperature inside the fridge. So fridge motor starts/stops are completely agnostic to whether the fridge is level, the only practical consequence of fridge being non-level is extra noise.

The most likely reason for fridge motor running too often are the following:

loose gasket around the door - as the fridge gets older the gasket loses shape and no longer seals the interior letting cold air out and warm air in. This is addressed by replacing the gasket.
users putting hot stuff in - the fridge has to run for a long time to cool down a glass of hot water or a hot pan, only room-temperature or colder stuff should be put into the fridge to avoid that
users opening the door too often


How do I wire my light fixture? my fixture has a black and white wire. ceiling has 2 blacks(twisted together), 2 whites (twisted together) and 1 red. There are 2 fixtures in the room with 2 wall switches. Only one wall switch has a red wire. If I hook white to white and black to black and red to either than both fixtures come on with either switch. What am I missing?

Three way wiring diagram for 2 switches (courtesy @tester101)

In this diagram, power enters from the left.  If the switches are clock faces, the common terminal is at 7, the two travelers are at 11 and 1 and ground is at 5.

Power flow:  Power enters left switch on black wire at 7, depending on switch setting, it leaves either on the black wire OR the red wire (This is the key to 3-ways: power can get to  the light by either switch, and can be turned off by either)

The power enters the right switch by either the red or the black.  It leaves the right switch on the black-tagged white wire at 7.  It then enters the light fixture(s) and returns to the neutral (white), back at the left switch location.

Fortunately, electrons move at the speed of light (nearly) and don't get dizzy.

There is another scenario where the power enters at the light and and the hot (black, ungrounded) is 'sent' to the common of one switch and the white(neutral) is 'sent through the light and down to the common of the other switch.  Both travelers still must traverse between the two switches.

In simplified form, two 'three-way' switches (SPDT) in schematic form (grounds omitted for clarity):


Does the listed gauge on a crimp cap take into account that two wires would go in the same end? What size of crimp cap be used for 16 AWG wire? I could use butt splice of size 22-18 AWG but prefer crimp cap connector where both wires go in the same end (so double the diameter). Should I buy Crimp Cap 16/14 Gauge or Crimp Cap 12/10 Gauge. Does the listed gauge take into account that two wires would go in the same end?

Comment converted to answer

A 16/14 cap should take between 1 and 4 #16 wires, but it depends on the cap. Specific information should be available on the packaging, or from the manufacturer.


In an old house, do I need a ground wire to install newer outlets, lights, and appliances? If I have an old house, as in 80 years old (the wiring is newer than that), and it only has two wires, hot and neutral, no ground, can I connect newer things like ceiling fans or hanging lights?
The house wiring isn't 80, but it is old enough to have Wadsworth breakers.  The outlets are not grounded, and someone said if I get GFCI outlets this will ground the outlet (put on in each room they said.)  One person said if I don't, my computer and electronics will get surges or fry.  The house is grounded, but not the receptacles.
I really did not want to rewire the whole house.  The wiring itself is good, not paper sheathing the electrician said.  This particular electrician said it would be "ok" and he wouldn't worry about plugging in things like computers or get a UPS.  The electrician also said even though a couple of the GFCI outlets in a bathroom were ten years old that they still trip and are ok.
Does the house have to be rewired to use modern electrical devices (lights, tv, refrigerators, computers, etc.)?

GFCIs do not provide grounding and are not a substitute for grounding. They are allowed as a substitute for ground because they do a good job protecting people from electric shock.  This is worthless for equipment protection.  An ungrounded GFCI requires a sticker saying

NO EQUIPMENT GROUND

to put users on notice that the equipment will not be protected from ESD and cannot get a useful antenna ground.
In 2014 they changed the rules so you can now retrofit ground wires to older wiring.  Grounds can take any reasonable path (don't need to be kept with the cables) and circuits can share grounds.  So any given outlet only needs its ground to go to the nearest place with thick enough wire back to the panel.  That includes non-flexible metal conduit being used as a ground path, and the Grounding Electrode System (bare copper wire going off to ground rods).
With older houses, I advise assuming nothing about the Grounding Electrode System.  Nothing beats a physical inspection.  Valid GES paths are an Ufer ground (if it was poured into the concrete at build time), a water main clamp (on the utility side of the water meter; utilities are replacing meters with plastic  smart meters that do not conduct electricity) or 2 ground rods each 8' long... set at least 6' apart but preferably catty-corner on the house.  1 ground rod will suffice if it passes an expensive test.


What is this type of pin and tumbler lock, and is it more difficult to pick than a Yale lock? I am changing the locks at my house and considering this one, whose craters seem more difficult to pick than a standard yale lock.

I include only half the key on purpose.

What is the name of the type of key, and is it more difficult to pick?

I believe this is called a dimple lock, and while no professional this lock wiki says

  A dimple lock is not more secure when compared to traditional pin tumbler locks, but the untraditional nature of the key makes many dimple locks appear sophisticated.


What can be done about this unattractive dryer vent? The house I bought has dryer vent that runs from the dryer into the ceiling. Besides being an eyesore it is also loose/flimsy.

I'm redoing the laundry room and would like to make this more attractive. So far I've thought about enclosing vent in drywall.  I'd appreciate any ideas. As a side note, I think it must vent through the roof because I can't find any air movement around the house while the dryer is running.

Before you do anything, you must figure out where it goes. It really has to vent outside. If it vents into the attic, you are going to have serious issues, including the potential of mold and rot as the hot, moist air is vented into an unconditioned space. It is (usually) against building codes to vent into the attic for this reason.

If it is venting through a roof or soffit vent, or out a wall, you're probably okay. It's best to keep runs as short as possible and with as few bends as possible. Dryer lint building up in the pipe can pose a fire hazard, so the shorter and straighter it is, the less chance there is to have anything build up, and the easier it is to clean out if needed.

Assuming it's vented properly, then I think boxing it in with drywall is a great way to go, and in fact is exactly what I did (in the corner):

You should also consider an in-line lint trap (I probably would have put one in if I knew about them):

I'd also recommend using straight vent pipe where possible, as it is smooth inside which reduces the opportunity for lint to attach and block the pipe. The rigid stuff you have is alright (way better than the white plastic crap) but it is still ridged inside.


Flat Iron Causing LED Lights to Flicker My wife was straightening her hair today when she noticed that whenever the straightener element turns on, the LED lights in the bathroom flicker.  The lights are on the same circuit as the outlet (which is GFCI), there are no dimmer switches installed anywhere in the house, the house was just built, and every single light in the house is LED.  On this circuit, there are only the 4 LED bulbs, a recessed led light, the bathroom outlets, and the smoke detectors.

I've noticed flickering before, but have been unable to isolate the cause.  I tried putting the straightener on a UPS with filtering, to see if it was some kind of noise being generated, and it did not help.

The flickering is visible on the 4 Feit Electric "Edison style" dimmable LEDs, as well as the (unknown branded) recessed light.

this happens when LED bulbs don't have proper (or any) DC conditioning. Cheaper decorative LEDs in the US use a simple circuit of ~50 LEDs in series, with no other regulation. This also means they are off half the time (60 times a second they blink), but some bulbs will have multiple series strands in reverse polarity, so that at least one "filament" is lit the majority of the time and the flicker rate is doubled to a less-noticeable 120Hz.

These styles of bulb are extremely simple electrically, literally about the same as a tungsten bulb. They are nice and pretty and cheap to produce, but they doesn't work very well. Small fluctuations in voltage will have large effects on the light output because the LEDs are unregulated and being driven close to their limit. Unlike tungsten, which has a linear voltage-to-lumen ratio, LEDs produce exponentially more light with voltage above their specification. So while a 2v dip on tungsten might decrease light ~2%, it can cut the LED's ouput by ten times that or more.

You want a more expensive bulb that will properly convert the incoming AC to lower-voltage DC to keep the output steady over a wide variety of input voltages. If there's a short delay from when you turn them on to when they output light chances are they won't flicker no matter what you do.


How do I obtain a smooth, white floor? I'd like to obtain a smooth, seamless, a bit shiny, white floor in an apartment. Something similar to this:

How can I achieve this? I was thinking about epoxy flooring. Is that the correct route to take in an apartment, or is there something else I should consider?

I would like to avoid applied sheets such as linoleum if possible.

A lot will depend upon the type of surface that the new flooring will be placed over. Epoxy floor covering may be best if over concrete sub floor. For other types of subfloors sheet vinyl may go a long way toward providing the look you want.

Proper preparation of the subfloor will be essential to getting a great look.

Here are some sheet vinyl ideas:

http://www.spec-net.com.au/press/0506/pla_030506.htm


what is the name of this outside faucet? I want to replace the handle of this outside faucet but there is no replacement found in local hardware stores.  If I can get the name then I could try to find it online

It's a typical Exterior Faucet Handle like these. This one happens to be Cello brand, but there's nothing special about it. That might not even be the original handle ;-) They tend to be pretty consistently standardized, so you should be able to use just about any kind of exterior faucet handle you can find.

This is what it looks like when it's off:

As you can see, you really just need any kind of handle that will fit however that shaft is keyed, and a nut to hold it on.


Any trick to removing GU10 lightbulbs? I'm trying to remove some halogen GU10 lightbulbs.  They are in a space where simply gripping them around the edges is nearly impossible.

Is there any trick to removing these bulbs?

Yes, there's suction cups made just for that. They stick to the front glass and let you turn the bulb.

Just google for "gu10 suction cups".


What size junction box do I need? I am running a long 20 amp circuit out to a stock watering tank from the barn. Given the length of the run (280 ft), I will need to use 4AWG. Midway, I will place a junction box and have an outlet pigtailed from the junction box as well as an outlet at the end of circuit.

What size and type of junction box should I have? The wire will run in buried plastic conduit and the junction box will be mounted outdoors. Both conduits will enter the box from the bottom (one conduit to barn, one to the end of the circuit at the stock tank).

Given the large size of the conductors, I would use aluminum for this, specifically the new AA-8000 series alloys.  Yes, aluminum has a bad reputation as a wire. But that only applied to the faulty AA-1300 alloys installed during the postwar housing boom, and even then to the small-gauge stuff where it was used instead of 12-14 gauge copper.  1300 is now outlawed in any gauge. 8000 is fine, and about 1/3 the cost of copper.  The wire-run chart says to use 2ga aluminum. Which will require larger conduit.

Second, it sounds like you also want 120V convenience outlets out there too.  But if you didn't need that, I would ask your vendor if they offer a machine that is 240V instead of 120V, and wire a 240V 10A circuit.  That would let you do this in 10ga copper.  (In those smaller sizes, aluminum isn't much cheaper.)

Double the voltage, halve the current, quarter the losses.


Leveling a sinking 1st floor addition that is about 4' off the ground First time home buyer looking for good advice about possibly raising a sunken 2 room addition ourselves. Wood frame, the sill is in good shape no rotting.

No warping or "cupping" of the rooms.  The floors are flat, just sloping toward the backyard about 2".

The joists run parallel to the house rather than perpendicular.

Seems like they never footed these two rooms properly when they added them, as the exterior edge is resting on cinder blocks placed into the soil.

How many footing do I need to dig?
What size Sona tube should I use?
Do I need to dig new footings underneath the rooms, close to the original foundation or just the outer edges near the yard?
One of the rooms has a drop ceiling and one is a screened in porch, do I need to remove these before jacking up?
One room has a laundry hookup on the interior wall, should that be OK?
There is an interior window on the dividing wall above that middle support, will that be OK?

You can do it but there may be complications. When stabilizing a job like this I would want to pour a few new footings much larger than what you have and probably add a few. When jacking the frame everything from roof leaks, doors not closing and broken pipes are a possibility.


Are my outside HVAC units and condensation drain PVC pipes set up correctly? I'm a newbie with this stuff, but here's my situation: I have two HVAC units in my home. One sits on top of the patio and one sits on the ground. Both of them are draining condensation from the PVC pipes.

It's been pretty humid so I understand why there's condensation drip from the PVC pipes - but I am not sure if the set up is correct in the first place.

Both of the HVAC units seem to have 2 PVC pipes each coming out from the wall of the house, but all 4 of them are open. The main unit has one that faces outwards and one that has an L-joint that faces down, and the secondary unit has two with L-joints that face down. Only one on each of them are currently draining.

The main unit is draining onto the ground, but puddling as it's a lot of water, and I am concerned about it damaging the foundation over time if that's even a concern. The secondary unit is draining over the patio and just making a trail until it goes to the grass, it's pretty ugly and ideally it would drain somewhere cleanly.

Is this set up even OK as is? I took a look at the drip pans inside the house and both are empty so I think it is fine, is this correct?

Condensate drip and accumulation are normal, especially during the summer months.

It is also very normal to find the drain lines terminated close to the house as you have described. Whether it is acceptable I guess could be argued based on the volume of water in question and where it is collecting.

If the accumulation of water is getting worrisome, you can buy some small diameter PVC pipe and reroute or extend your existing drain lines. You can even get creative, such as routing them into existing downspout drain lines, or directly burying the condensate drain lines themselves.

If you are worried about exterior-drained condensate freezing, you could bury a standard 4" drainage pipe to redirect your condensate. This pipe could accumulate your condensate via a catch basin, direct piping, or other means. The probability of an entire 4" pipe freezing, especially in the southeastern US, would be approaching zero.

Be sure to maintain a good slope when extending any lines, and drain to daylight any buried lines.

Additionally, you can drain your condensate to some acceptable locations inside your home, such as a plumbing drain (not a plumbing vent stack!).

Use this as a reference:


Where do I find a good light fire extinguisher? Just wondering if anyone has any advice/tips on a good small fire extinguisher to have at home? I'm not looking for something that's going to put out a blaze if half my house is on fire. Rather something that will safely put out something small and prevent half my house from going on fire.

The only thing (i think) i know about them is i can get a CO2 extinguisher or a chemical one. Not sure which one is good for what.

Suggestions?

Your local home improvement store will surely have a "fire safety" section.  This will be the best place to buy, because the items are bulky and stored under pressure.  This makes them expensive to ship.

If you currently have no fire extinguishers, I would suggest at least 1 per floor.  Keep one under the sink in the kitchen, and store the others mounted to the walls in your closets.

You are looking for an "ABC" or "tri-class" dry chemical extinguisher.  These will generally come in a wide variety of sizes.  Get a moderately sized one for your kitchen, and the same size or smaller for the other areas of your house.

In case you are curious, the "ABC" rating refers to the class of fires which the extinguisher will be effective on:

A denotes a fire in combustible materials (wood, paper, etc.)
B denotes a fire in combustible liquids (oil, gasoline, etc.)
C denotes an electrically energized fire.  The rating ensures that the chemical in the extinguisher is non-conductive.
D denotes a fire in flammable metals.  You are not likely to see this type of fire in a residential setting.

There will also a numerical rating for the A and B classes, which denote the relative extinguisher strength.  The A number multiplied by 1.25 will give you the number of gallons of water that the extinguisher is equivalent to.  The B number will give you the approximate number of square feet of B class fire that a person with no training can expect to extinguish.


What does "Temporary Hold" mean on a BG&E thermostat We live in Baltimore, MD. As we enter Spring, today is the first day it was warm (over 80°) and humid (flash flood around 4:00 PM). We tried to run the AC for a while but the air was not cool. It was more like a fan was blowing ambient air.

I believe the digital thermostat is being operated correctly. We've had it several years and we are doing the same thing as we usually do. The unit is turned On, it set to Cool, and the temp is set below room temp by about 8° or 10°. We noticed the thermostat has a message "Temporary Hold" but we don't know what it means.

Searching BG&E's website does not list any hits for the message. Confer, "temporary hold" site:bge.com.

What does "Temporary Hold" mean on a BG&E digital thermostat? Or more to the point, does it mean BG&E disabled the AC unit?

There may be a way for BGE to disable the ac compressor but that is normally a special radio controlled switch outside. It is also unlikely that they would have done that on a day like today. So there is almost certainly something wrong with your ac unit. First step is to check outside for anything blocking the compressor - leaves etc. Beyond that I don't know - for me it would be time to call the hvac guy.

But the temporary hold is easy. On many thermostats if you override the temperature it is a temporary change until the next programmed change kicks in at a preset time. There is usually a way to do a more permanent hold with another button.

FYI, the reason you couldn't get info from BGE is they're not in the thermostat business. They're in the energy business and peak demand is their biggest concern because it affects profitability. One way they try to lower peak demand is by getting residential users to use automatic setback thermostats to lower ac usage during the day for people who are all out to work or school. The easiest way to do that is by giving away thermostats for free. And if you're a utility doing thousands at a time you can get them private labeled. But they're not really made by bge.


"Top layer" plywood subfloor fastened to decking I just tore out a ton of particle board subfloor that was previously used for carpeting.  The entire house has decking (2x6 planks) running on a 45 degree angle over joists with 3/8" plywood over the decking, with the exception of a few rooms where I tore out the particle board so just decking there.  I'm trying to figure out how to attach more 3/8" plywood to the decking where I tore out the particle board.  We are installing t n g hardwood eventually.

Should I try to drive decking screws through plywood into the joists, or can I just glue and screw into the decking?
Does the plywood need to be oriented perpendicular to the joists, even with the decking under already?  Or should I orient the plywood so that it will run perpendicular to the hardwood we will install (so, parallel to the joists..)
Should I take the time to level the plywood subfloor over the decking, or should I just wait until installing the actual hardwood tongue and groove to worry about leveling (or "flattening, as I suppose it will be)?

The 45 degree decking is the primary sub-floor.  It's a technique that was widely used in the past, but has subsequently been replaced with simply dropping sheets of plywood down.

In answer to your questions:

1) You can glue and screw to the sub-floor.

2) In this case, it doesn't matter.  The sub-floor is carrying the load diagonally.  However, if there were no sub-floor, then you would want to go perpendicular. See this discussion on the subject.

3) Always - always - always level as you go.  Fix the level at the soonest possible opportunity or it can be amplified by an order of magnitude.


Finding a phantom GCFI We have a bathroom whose GFCI tripped one day.  Only after it was tripped did we realize we have no idea where the reset button is.  It's not on the breaker, it's not on the wall outlet, and there's no other wall outlets in the room.

Is there a process for locating the hidden GFCI?  The wall outlet has a sticker claiming it to be on a GFCI circuit, that's all I have to defend the claim that there's a GFCI on the circuit at all (as opposed to other possibilities, such as simply not being wired in at all... which would be odd).  The circuit breaker is decidedly not flipped.

How can I locate my GFCI for this circuit?

Look around (usually physically nearby) for a tripped GFCI - that will be the one. If the circuit breaker is well-labeled (unlikely, IMPE, but in the ideal world they all are) you'll know what other rooms to check, as they would be the ones on that same circuit breaker.

Typically will be the other side of a wall, another bathroom nearby, out in the hallway, etc.


How are electricity cables taken up on the roofs of tho high apartment buildings? Not sure this is the site to ask this question, but here it goes anyway:

The other day I saw an electricity cable hanging in an unusually wide curve. That got my attention and I looked out of the window to find out that that cable was in the process of installation by two guys on top of two very high apartment buildings about 70 meters away from each other. There were no cranes in vicinity, so naturally I started wondering how in the world they got one end of the cable to the other roof. It isn't likely that one guy just threw a cable's end to the other guy. How is this done in cities without the use of cranes?

Highly possible that one guy used a bow to shoot an arrow tied to end of a ball of string. As the arrow flew to the position of the other guy the string feed smoothy off the ball. In no time the two fellows had a length of string between themselves.

If it was a windy day then one guy possibly launched a kite out into the breeze. By running the kite out a good length the second guy was able to catch the kite string in hand.

In any case with the string between them then a light weight rope is tied to one end and the other guy used the string to pull the rope across the gap. The light rope is then used to pull across a stout rope.

Now you can guess that the stout rope, being strong and durable, is used to pull the electrical cable across between the buildings!!


Adding hinges to steel box tube that is going to be powder coated - advice So, I've designed a frame built of 3mm thick 5 x 5mm steel box tube, which will have inset wooden panels. This will eventually become a unit for an aquarium.

All good in practice but the front wooden panels inset in the frame are going to be doors.

Problem I have is how would I go about adding the hinges for the doors to the frame?

Suggestions I've had so far are:

1 - Weld the hinges to the frame...might be an issue when powder coated

2 - Add the hinge afterwards with self tapping screws...possible chipping of powder coat

Any other recommendations or come across similar scenarios?

Images attached of original design and the almost completed fabricated frame.

Why not pre-drill the holes, put the screw in with tape before powdercoat. Then after complete, remove the screw and hopefully it won't crack around the tape. Or, get a removable pin hinge and weld one side to the frame and cover the pin holes. Or, weld a nut inside and cover to powdercoat. Or, use an anchor system, predrill the holes slightly over size. and leave the bottom open so you can relace the hinge, if need be, in the future.


How do I move a hot-water convector? I have a "breakfast nook" section of my kitchen with a large hot water convector installed along the baseboards of two walls. Because of other elements in the heating system located close nearby and the fact that I want to install cupboards in the "breakfast nook", I'd like to move the convector to another adjacent room.
The kitchen gets plenty of heat from the attached mechanical room and laundry room as well as cooking, convective air currents, and a forced air heating system, so I'm not worried about keeping the room warm. (It's usually too hot!)
What do I have to do to move the convector to another location? What is the process for disconnecting the water lines, moving the convector to a new location (an office on the other side of the kitchen wall) and reconnecting the water lines?
Is there pressurization I have to deal with? I imagine air being introduced into the boiler system is a concern. Should that just be bled out on the convector unit connector?
I'd also like to change the geometry of the convector from an "L" shape to a straight run. Is that something I can do by changing out the copper fittings?
I realize this is a very broad question (or series of questions actually) but I'm looking for a very high level methodology for moving the convector and especially what are some of the things I'll have to contend with.
I have very little experience with this style of heating system but I'm pretty versed with plumbing and electrical work, etc.
I've tried "googling around" and I'm not really finding very much good information. Everything I can find is either trying to tell me how the system works or why I should call some HVAC company to come work on my system.
This is similar to the unit I want to move:

...inside there are two copper pipes and heat-exchange fins, a hot water inlet and a hot water return connection from the boiler. The "guts" of it looks essentially like this, specifically the "front" example:

...although, mine has the "in" and "out" connections at the same end and the copper is plumbed in an enlongated U-shape.

If you are not in the Southern hemisphere, wait 4-6 months and do this in the off-season for heating, not in mid-winter.
It's major surgery and requires shutting down and partially (at least) draining your boiler, unless somebody put in WAY more valves than is usual.

Shut down the boiler
Turn off the water supply to the boiler, if it's not nomally kept closed.
Drain system to remove water (or potentially antifreeze) from this portion of the piping (at
least.)
Cut or unsolder pipe to release convector, and remove it, assuming no convenient unions.
cut or unsolder more pipe to undo what leads here.
assemble pipe to lead to new location, taking care not to drill holes in things you should not, or set the building on fire while soldering.
If you have two sections joined by elbows, yes you can straighten the bend in the plumbing by replacing those with straight couplings. Your outer cover may no longer fit properly, however, since it was configured for the corner.
connect the new plumbing to the newly configured convector in the new location.
pressurize the system and check carefully for leaks
bleed air from the system - may need to repeat several times after the next step, as air dissolved in cold water comes out of solution in heated water.
restart the boiler
balance the system for heat delivery, using balancing valves, movable flaps on the convector (not that the style you show appears to have those) or system zoning. Installing balancing valves and/or zoning would have to be dealt with at the "replumbing" stage if not already present.


April Aire 600 Humidistat Question The humidistat was replaced. The wiring looks the same as it did before. However, the solenoid only opened when the blower was on. Now we hear the solenoid opening at all times of the night whether the blower is on or not. The tech did say it was going to run a lot for a few days because our humidity was so low. We have the dial on 5 and it clicks at about 4.5 but never has reached 5. It was 44 hours ago the humidistat was swapped out. Is this normal?
Update: The tech who installed the humidistat said the furnace installers (several years ago) had added a transformer for the humidistat which bypasses the blower. Please see picture.

No, it is not normal.  The solenoid allows water to run over the humidifier's screen.  If the blower isn't running....it's a pointless waste to have water running.
I assume you aren't confusing the running of a condensate pump (if you have one) with the solenoid.  The pump can kick on even if the blower isn't running.


How can I safely mount a pull-up bar on a suspended stud wall? Wanted to install a pull-up bar in my room. I'm building it out of steel pipe. I want to attach the pipe to a wooden board, and mount the board on the wall. I feel like this would provide better support than without the board?

I'm unsure where would be the best spot to support the weight, since there aren't any long studs. (I weigh 150 lbs) Would the cripple studs or plates be able to support the load?

Similar questions have been answered already however, the wall I want to work on isn't attached to the floor.

In the photos the black line is where I would like the bar to be and the red indicates the same corner in each photo.

I'm new to this kind of thing, so any advice would be helpful!

Your studs and framing should be fine. You need to screw into the existing studs and odds are that the pull up bar won't do a direct attachment very well connection bigger than the width of the stud. Also, the current framing layout will dictate where you place it.

Your idea of attaching a board to the wall and the pull up bar to it are a good one and what I would suggest even if you hadn't thought of it.

I would use a 2x6 or a 2x8 (the wider 2x8 might look better) and screw it to the studs with (3) #8 x 3-1/2" screws per stud to a minimum of (2) studs. Be sure that there is a stud on each side of each of the two pull up bar attachment points, which will likely require attaching the board to three studs. You might want to extend the board the full width of the opening for a better look.

How far out from the wall you place the bar has a significant affect on the force applied to the board, so keep it to 6" maximum.

Then attach the pull up bar per its instructions


Connecting a shaver socket I would like to install a shaver socket in my bathroom and the closest power supply is the bathroom light switch.  Instead of lifting all of the loft insulation to find the lighting junction box, is it permissible to take a spur from the bathroom light switch to power a shaving socket, which is fitted with a transformer?

The bathroom light switch box might not have a neutral in it, and you need both a hot and a neutral to power anything.

In the US in older construction the light switch may be connected to the controlled light with a "switch loop", meaning a line hot on one connection of the switch and a switched hot on the other. The line hot and the switched hot are in  the same cable going to the box with the light fixture. One of these two wires would normally have white insulation, and so is sometimes mistaken for a neutral.

However, sometimes the line hot cable enters in the switch box and in that case there is a neutral in the switch box. In that case one can install a cable leading from the switch box to a receptacle.


WEATHER-resistant GFCI's required in bathrooms? My new non-WR GFCI outlet says on the back of it...

  NOTICE:DO NOT INSTALL non-weather resistant devices in wet or damp locations as per latest NEC code. When installing weather resistant devices in wet locations use with approved weather resistant covers/enclosures, caulk and gaskets.

Does this mean that WEATHER-resistant (WR) GFCI's must now be installed in INDOOR damp locations (bathrooms, kitchens) as per the "latest NEC code"?

Device instructions do not have any standing to decide what NEC does or does not say.

However, device instructions can, and do, make declarations about how the device itself may be used.  And these have the force of law.

  NEC 110.3(B)  Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

The instructions you quote, clearly defer to NEC as to the definition of "wet locations".

  100.1

  Location, Damp. Locations protected from weather and not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of moisture. Examples of such locations include partially protected locations under canopies, marquees, roofed open porches, and like locations, and interior locations subject to moderate degrees of moisture, such as some basements, some barns, and some cold-storage warehouses.

  Location, Wet. Installations underground or in concrete slabs or masonry in direct contact with the earth; in locations subject to saturation with water or other liquids, such as vehicle washing areas; and in unprotected locations exposed to weather.


How do I replace part of my bathroom ceiling? I had a leak in the roof above my bathroom. I had a contractor investigate. He looked at the roof carefully, and he examined the ceiling with an infrared scanner while it was actually leaking. He explained that the leak was caused by runoff from the upper roof, running across this lower not very steep one, and the water was pooling in the keys of the shingles and finding nail holes. He told me to get a downspout extension to route the upper roof's runoff into the gutter, which I have done, so I feel hopeful there will be no more leak.

However, my bathroom ceiling was damaged by the leak and at least part of it needs replacing. I have attached a picture, showing that the leak came through the fan and to the side of the fan (circled areas).

You can see there is mold in the peeling paint. There is a smaller hole where my husband's thumb easily poked through when it was really soaked.

Do I need to replace the fan as part of repairing the ceiling? Should I assume there is mold in it, but even if so, could I clean it out?

What is the best way to replace the ceiling? I've never replaced a wall or a ceiling, though I've done a lot of spackling and painting. My husband and I both do a lot of small repairs, too, so I think we can do it. I would welcome detailed instructions or pro tips.

The fan may be able to be salvaged, only inspection and testing after it has been dried out can determine this. All the components should be removable from the metal box that is fastened to the ceiling joists. Be sure to turn off power at the breaker before doing any electrical work, though many fans simply unplug from the containing box. Just to be safe. Power can be restored once everything is out and any loose wires capped with wire nuts, one to each wire.

Dry out the components and inspect for mold. Any mold on non-electrical components can be cleaned with a bleach and water solution. If the motor appears moldy or water damaged, it's best to replace the fan.

Assess the limits of water damage in the ceiling, it can be much more extensive than is apparent from the painted side. All water damaged gypsum board or plaster must be replaced. From here on, I'll assume this is a gypsum board ceiling. Locate ceiling joists adjacent to the damaged area. Cut out a rectangular area slightly larger than the damage with edges falling on the center of the joists. You can cut between joists with a handsaw, but you must first be sure you are not damaging any wiring. The wet board can be pulled out by hand, allowing enough access to determine if any wiring is in the way.

The cuts along ceiling joists can be done with a utility knife. Be warned you will likely hit screws or nails along the way, remove them as you find them. Before doing this part, try to determine if the water damage extends into the next joist bay by inspecting from above, if possible.

Once you have removed all wet material, cut a new piece of gypsum board to fit the opening. Screw in place along each joist at each edge and every couple feet if it gets that big. Also screw in place the original board's new edge where nails or screws were removed. The technique for patching the joints is the same as for taping and mudding end joints of new gypsum board, there's many references on this process. It's not much more than hard core spackling.

Once the joints have been blended out enough to appear flat, prime and paint to match the remaining ceiling. This will all take some time, mainly waiting for the joint compound layers and paint coats to dry. The only hard work is cutting out a rectangular shape.