Sub-panel with single ground and common bar - with a twist I know that this question has been asked and answered before however I have a possibly unique twist.

The old question: Does a sub-panel require that the ground and common wires be on separate bars?

The old answer: Yes.

So, looking at the 2 images below, the sub-panel in the second image would need to be corrected because as it is it is potentially dangerous. Correct?

Image 1 is the main panel where you can see common and ground separated. There is a 60 AMP breaker that feeds off to the sub-panel.
Image 2 is the sub-panel where the ground and common share the same bar.
Question 1 To correct this, I would need to buy and mount another bar to the panel on the left side of the box directly to the metal without any plastic spacer to complete the ground and run a ground wire from the main panel ground to it that is the same gauge as the line/common wires coming from the panel? And then reroute all of the ground wires to it?

Now the twist...please scroll passed the 2 images for more

Preface:

It is unclear if the previous owner did this himself (he is now deceased) or if a licensed contractor actually did the work. My issue is I am now the owner and doing some renovating and need to clear this up. At first I simply thought that the original panel was too full to handle any more circuits hence the need for a sub-panel. But today I began run some new circuits and made the first of 2 revelations, the first up above. The second is that it is possible that number 1 above may be correct OR that number 2 could burn down my house, kill someone or both.

This brings me to image 3 below.

I first thought that the wires from the 60 AMP breaker in the main panel passed through this panel and into the sub-panel, which it actually does. However, it does so after the switch in this middle panel first.

The previous owner had this switch going to a giant extension cord that plugged into his gas powered generator I assume for power outages.

So now I am thinking that this panel was not merely for additional circuits, but rather to isolate certain circuits that he could power during an outage with his generator. That would explain the use of the red (stranded) wires from the three breakers in the sub-panel (on the right side) that go into the main panel and are wire nutted to other circuits. The latter I began separating prior to realizing this.

Facts
The sub-panel breakers only work if the middle switch is flipped upwards ON. That is the side that is powered from the 60 AMP breaker in the main panel. In the OFF position pictured those circuits are off. Same as in the down ON position which of course plugs into the generator.

So more questions:

Question 2 Is question 1 above still valid? I would think either way It could not hurt to have separate bars and may be the only right thing to do.

Question 3 Is this actually a legit configuration. I am now living in Connecticut (US) and being from AZ and TX am not accustomed to major power outages so am unsure if this is new or not. It would be cool to have this as a backup someday but am not married to it and would just as soon remove it as it seems dangerous so your opinions are appreciated here.

There are probably more questions but will open this up for discussion first. I have more images of details and can provide clarification of the schematics if needed.

Thanks in advance!

A simplified drawing of how the three panels interact. I'll provide additional closeups upon request.

Main to switch detail.

Plug detail.

This is related to what is known as separately derived systems and non separately derived systems, and it concerns avoiding unnecessary impedance on the grounding system that would adversely effect over current protection, i.e., breakers and fuses.

If the neutral is switched along with the phase conductors in the transfer switch, you have a separately derived system and you would NOT separate the grounds and neutrals in the generator only, which contains the main over current device "main breaker". You WOULD separate the grounds and neutrals in the sub-panel. Again, this is because the main over current device, "main breaker" is contained outside in the generator.

So, in your condition the generator is portable and thus does not fall under the permanently installed generator rules.  But if it were, you would want to separate the grounds and neutrals at the generator and sub panel and be done with it.

To address your main question whether your current setup is safe.  As mentioned above you ideally want the lowest impedance for ground fault protection.  But by not separating the grounds and neutrals in the sub panel you are creating MORE impedance.


Wire Dilemma - Ceiling light I am trying to replace an old ceiling light fixture.  The old chandelier could be turned on from three different places:  a light switch near the door, one near the kitchen, and another at the top of the stairs.

In the ceiling junction box are 2 red, 2 white, 2 black and 1 ground wires.

The new light fixture only has two wires - both black.  One is ribbed - which I am assuming is the "white" wire.

I have tried multiple combinations - and can only get the light switch near the kitchen to turn on the light.

Please help!

This one's more than a little tricky.  But let's start by reviewing how 3-way circuits work in the first place.
(And by the way, you didn't make life any easier on yourself by unhooking all the wirenuts in the box.  The right way to do this is only unhook the 2 wires that were hooked to the old light, aside from ground.)
So here's a basic 3-way circuit.  Now I am a huge fan of identifying wires by color.  I use wires in conduit, so I get to do that.  With black-white-red cable, you can accomplish the same thing by marking both ends of the wire with colored electrical tape. I strongly recommend labeling as you figure out the circuit, and then always thereafter.

Black - supply always-hot
White - supply neutral
Yellow pair - messengers (they are interchangeable, so you don't need to distinguish them from each other)  Alt traveler color: blue.
Red - switched-hot - hot when light is desired to be on.

Note that between the 3-ways, is "/3" cable (3-wire) cable.  This is to accommodate a special rule: In any cable or conduit, currents must be equal. If one of the travelers is taking power to the lamp, the power must return via the neutral in the same cable etc.  That's why I drew it very thin with wires bunched.
This isn't your circuit, though.  Yours is a little more complicated because with 3 control points, it must involve a 4-way switch (UK:3-way).  But not that more complicated: take a look.

You can see I've moved the bulb, but it's just cosmetic; it doesn't really affect the circuit any.  And the 4-way just goes mid-line along the two travelers - inputs 2 travelers, outputs 2 travelers.   You can have as many 4-ways as you please, just like that.  I just left the second set of travelers yellow... it's not that complicated.  Note the screw colors (brass/black).
Now.  Imagine the first 3-way (and the passthrough neutral) is in a box.  Imagine the bulb and 2 yellow messengers passing through) are in another box.  Imagine the 4-way (and passing through switched-hot) are in another box.  That is exactly how your house is wired.

In this drawing I changed the second set of travelers to blue, supply hot to brown, neutral to gray and switched-hot to orange. Never mind that, though.
Physically, it'd look like this if we color-taped all the wires (a lot).  Note that in the /3 cable, the underlying hard colors used in your house could be absolutely anything.
Though I cannot say whether the bulb is left or right of the 4-way -- as you can see from the drawing, it changes very little either way.
So now you have some detective work to do. Take apart your switches, but don't remove any wires :) Among your switches:

The 3-way switch with only one cable in the box is the remote (far-end) 3-way.  The two wires on brass screws are the messengers, the other will surely be switched-hot.
Only travelers will go to the 4-way switch.  That'll be two wires from one cable, and two wires from the other cable.  All those are travelers.  The remaining wire from each cable is "passthrough" either neutral or switched hot.
The other 3-way switch will have 2 cables (a /2 and a /3 cable) - the /2 cable will be power supply source.  Again, the two wires on brass screws are the messengers and will go into the same cable.  On the supply cable, black will be supply-hot and white will be supply-neutral.
Up in the lamp, 2 wires from each cable will be travelers.  The remaining wires will be switched-hot and neutral.

It's also remotely possible that the power supply enters the 4-way box.  Let me know if that's the case, it makes the drawing slightly different, but not shatteringly so.


Noisy water system in GE Profile fridge My GE Profile refrigerator's water dispenser started making a noise when drawing water and I replaced the filter with the bypass insert. Now the noise has stopped but no water comes out. What could have caused the rattling sound that has now stopped and why can't I get water with the bypass in?

There is a switch around where filter bypass goes a lot of off brand filters wont work and bypass has to in correctly. those filter housing has a habit of getting clogged.


How to deal with clear flakes off my wooden headboard Tonight I noticed quite a bit of clear flaking on my wood headboard.  Can anyone let me know what this is and how I should deal with it?

Clear flakes are probably some type of varnish.

I would sand the surface to remove the loose flakes and to make the surface as flat as possible, then refinish with a similar varnish. I would follow the instructions on the container very carefully. Preparation is important for a good result. You can buy tack-cloths to remove dust before applying varnish.

Usually it is best to use the same type of product as was used originally unless you sand the whole thing back to bare wood. It can be hard to identify exactly what type of product has been used. I would start by experimenting with new finish on a small area that isn't usually seen (e.g. the back of the headboard)

In an apartment, if I had no access to the outside or a balcony, I would take the headboard to a room that has good ventilation and where dust can be cleaned up easily. Maybe a utility room with a window that can be opened? I would use a well-fitting disposable dust-mask when sanding. I would try to avoid spending long periods in the room when sanding or applying varnish.

Editing the question to include a good photo might help readers identify the flakes and suggest other remedial actions.


Metal roof over mold, lichens, moss I want to install a metal roof over my single layer shingle one on my unheated garage. It has mold and MOSS and lichens. Can I put a metal roof over mold and moss and lichens?

My answer would be no you cannot. It may depend on your location, maybe not, but a metal roof will allow condensation to form on the underside and that will allow other things to grow like mildew, from the existing growth you have, or keep the other alive too. You will need to clear the old roofing material and lay a condensation barrier down to keep the condensation from the metal from damaging the under structure of the roof.


What kind of bathroom floor is this, and how to remove it? This floor is about 20 years old. It's some kind of fake plasticky tile (no seams between the tiles, looks like all one sheet) on top of a lighter gray papery material on top of a darker gray concrete-like material (but not as hard). I drilled a little hole for inspection, and I didn't go all the way down, but ultimately there is a wood subfloor at the bottom.
I'm looking to replace this floor with vinyl planks. Can I just peel off this plastic stuff, apply floor primer, and lay the planks over that?

Clearly sheet vinyl (often misnomered linoleum, i.e. polmerized linseed oil and cloth, the original sheet plastic floor, rarely seen in the wild these days.)
At 20 years old (2001) unless you are in some crazy country that did not stop using asbestos when it became clear what a hazard it was, it is not at all likely to be asbestos backed, but you could have a sample checked if the age is questionable or you want to be paranoid about it.
Asbestos can only be identified in a lab test. A picture of one fibrous material and another fibrous material will look pretty much identical regardless of asbestos content or lack thereof. The backing is much more likely to be plain old paper at that age.


I'm trying to mount a TV into a brick wall covered by 2"-2.5" of drywall... is this doable? I'm trying to mount a 39" TV that I have previously mounted (with no issues) into typical wooden studs with an arm mount. The mount uses two vertically oriented 5/16" bolts. After stopping by my local tool rental, I picked up a hammer drill and some lag shields, for which they recommended a 1/2" masonry bit. The bit was obviously too large as I cannot get the lag shield to stay in place.

So now I have a few 5" long 5/16" bolts, 5/16" lag shields, and a brick wall with somewhere between 2.25" and 2.5" of drywall covering it.

Provided that I go get the right (smaller) masonry bit, should the wall support my TV or am I fighting a losing battle? Should I buy even longer 5/16" bolts?

Thanks,

Kevin

I would bypass the drywall and long screws and flat mount 2x4 to the brick and then attach the TV mount to the studs with 1 1/2 wood screws.  You would cutaway enough drywall to achieve a flat mount.  You might have to add a 1x4 overtop to get the proper flush or slightly proud mounting.


How close can garage overhead storage be to fire sprinklers? I've recently been looking at getting overhead storage racks for my garage which has several standard pendant sprinklers.  The racks I am looking at are 4' x 8' and have rigid brackets, vertical posts, horizontal beams and crosshatched wire base.  I asked the local installer what the distance requirements are so I can measure and calculate how many racks I would be able to install.

I received a response stating that all I need is 5" horizontal clearance from each rack to each sprinkler.  Is this correct?  The reason I ask is that this answer regarding light fixture distance from fire sprinklers has a distinctly different answer.

The answer from JayL contains the following:

  The residential code says pendant sprinklers must be at least 3 ft from obstructions such as ceiling fans and lights (as measured from their centers)

Does the above apply to storage racks as well?  Are they getting by with a technicality where it's within code as long as you don't put anything on the racks, but as soon as you put a storage bin up there it becomes an obstruction and out of code?

Edit:  For clarity's sake, the brackets for these racks are mounted to the roof ceiling joists and the vertical posts hang down from the brackets.

You should not store any items within 18" of the ceiling near a sprinkler head. The items can obstruct the water flow of the sprinkler if it goes off.

  NFPA 13 (2013), Clearance to Storage, has a requirement in 8.5.6.1,
  which states, "Unless the requirements of 8.5.6.2, 8.5.6.3, 8.5.6.4, or
  8.5.6.5 are met, the clearance between the deflector and the top
  of storage or contents of the room shall be 18 in. (457 mm) or
  greater."

  OSHA  29 CFR 1910.159(c)(10) in part states, "The minimum vertical
  clearance between sprinklers and material below shall be 18-inches
  (457 mm).

  The 18" should be considered a minimum vertical clearance. All items
  in the storage area must fall below this plane


What factors should I experiment with to improve the performance of a DIY solar hot water system? Background:
Late in the summer last year I finally commissioned a DIY solar hot water pre-heat project. Very simple, drain back, open (vented) tank, PEX coil for a heat exchanger,
PEX plumbing throughout, panel is about 10x12' with re-purposed aluminium "staple up" radiant floor transfer plates. Anyway, long story short, the performance has been disappointing, bottom line is that the storage tank temperature has never really exceeded 25°C. On the other hand, despite being in an unheated crawlspace in Halifax, over the winter it never was below 15°C, either, so its better than nothing (better then the cost of the pump, I haven't calculated). I suspected the solar controller, or rather, its analogue probes, of being a problem, and finally got around to installing a bunch of digital probes and flow meter (raspberry pi).

After a day of monitoring, its clear the flow is right at 15 l/min. I just now repaired some more wiring, and will update tomorrow with some sample temperature of the panel, tank, and return water.

Are the PEX hoses black and is the sun side of the re-purposed aluminum plates black?

If not you may want to consider changing this so as to increase the efficiency solar energy absorption.


How to close a doorway between two apartments? I own two adjacent condo units and I opened a small doorway (24"x80") on the common wall for convenience.

Now I've sold one of the units and need to close the doorway. I recall the wall was simply double drywall on both sides.

My question is: How to close such a large opening? If I can still use drywall, how to secure the pieces to the rest of the wall?

One extra bit of info: one side of the wall was covered by large mirror glasses, and I can easily reattached one glass piece to conceal whatever I do with the doorway (I won't leave it open, of course). But other side of the wall is simply wall-papered so I have to come up with a good way.

First off, opening a common wall between two separate living units is fine if you occupy both units. It is however against most fire codes to have such a doorway between separate units. Now that you are selling one, you will need to reframe the opening and cover BOTH SIDES with the proper fire rated sheathing, ie: 5/8 or two 1/2 inch pieces of drywall.

To do this, you should frame the opening with 2X4's on sides, top, and a center stud. Attach the drywall as you would for any other interior wall. Tape the seams and use joint compound to smooth the joints. Refinish/paint etc. This will restore the wall to it's original specification. Anything less than a proper fire rated repair should/would be picked up by a competent home inspector and will have to be repaired properly before you can close on the sale anyway. Good luck.


How do I tap into the PEX water supply line? The water supply line for my ice maker was never connected. So I want to know how to tap into the PEX water supply line to allow connection to the ice maker.

First you need to cut the PEX tubing at the access spot. That can be done with a PEX tubing cutter.

Then you acquire the correct type fitting (your size requirement may differ from picture) to rejoin the cut PEX with "T" fitting and a branch connection for an added PEX tubing to go off toward the ice maker. It is also necessary to install an inline valve to permit turning off the ice maker connection as shown.

An alternative method is to use a more conventional nylon tubing supply line toward the ice maker and connect that to the PEX tubing with a integrated valve type "T" fitting like this:

At the ice maker end of the newly added PEX line (if you had decided to run the distance with PEX) you would need to select the appropriate type of adapter fitting(s) to allow connection of the small diameter ice maker line.

At the actual ice maker connection it will be necessary to use the small diameter plastic tubing to the ice maker fitting. You can purchase kits that include fittings and the tubing at big box type home centers.


Will running cable near metal stair railing cause interference? I want to increase the range of my router on the upper floor, for gaming in another room. For this, the cable will have to run alongside metal stair railing. Will this cause interference? Will the use of STP/Coax cable reduce this interference? Secondly, the cables are gonna run outside the wall below electric sockets(about 24 cm away), will there be any problems due to this?

Metal parts of the structure, such as stair railings, don't generate any interference at all.  So there's nothing to worry about there.

Running close to the power cords won't cause any trouble at all.  Long runs that are very close to cords / cables carrying high current may cause trouble, but not the setup you're describing.


Maxi Pad flushed down the toilet I accidently flushed a rolled up maxi pad down the toilet 14 days ago at a friend's house while on vacation. We stayed at their house for 7 days and it was clogged with the pad the first day we stayed there. It got unclogged with a plunger moments after it was flushed and hasn't clogged for the rest of the vacation. Does that mean the pad made it through or should I still be worried about it? People have been using the toilet too and it's flushing fine. I'm worried it might back up everyone's waste and flood or something if it's still in the pipe.

It is completely impossible to determine if the maxipad is still in the house plumbing or not with the information given or without a first hand evaluation of the sewer system.

The only ways to be really sure are one of these:

Run a cleanout snake down the sewer to check if it can snag the pad and pull it back out.
Run a remote inspection camera down the sewer to visually inspect the pipes to make sure the pad is still not present.

What choices do you have?

Either do one of the above steps or just wait, keeping your fingers crossed, and hope for the best whilst being prepared for the possible nasty mess.


Can I use a dimmer on a fan IF I only use at 100%? I have an IRIS home automation system. I want to put my fan on an IRIS switch however the on/off switches require a neutral - the dimmers do not. The neutral in the box is nearly impossible to get to... so my thoughts were to just use a dimmer but only run it at 100%. I understand its not a good idea to change the speed of a fan using  a dimmer. Considering I have no desire to change the speed with the dimmer and plan on running it at 100%... is this safe?
This is the dimmer
The specs
Dimmer or Fan Control           Dimmer
Dimmer and Fan Control Type     Other
Remote Control Included         No
Amps (Amps)                     15.0
Voltage (Volts)                 120.0
Wall Plate Included             No
Color                           White
Color/Finish Family             White
RFI Filter                      Yes
Fan Speed                       N/A
Controller/Dimmer Wattage       600
Phase Type                      Single phase (120/240)
UL Safety Listing               Yes
CSA Safety Listing              No
ETL Safety Listing              No
Collection Name                 Iris
Iris Technology                 Yes

Speaking from experience with the X10 equivalent, no. Even with the switch at 100%, the switch will overheat. You need a switch with a relay. Do it right or not at all; it's not worth burning your house down over.


How can I repair/replace this swollen section of countertop? This countertop appears to be laminated particle board. I suspect the damage shown in these photos happened likely due to excess water being present on the countertop and seeping in between the sections of countertop, getting absorbed, and causing this swelling.

I think that swollen section is called an "end splash", a "return splash", or a "backsplash" (although I thought the last one may be reserved for when the material is tile).
Can the swollen section can be repaired? Or would it simply be replaced? How would I ensure that the replacement will have the same color/design on the laminate? What would a professional do?

Particle board and water are not good friends. Trying to "repair" water damaged particle board is not particularly feasible and the real solution is replacement.
In your case the particle board has been covered with a hard laminate product called Formica (or other similar product) that is bonded to the particle board substrate with contact cement. If you were to just want to focus on replacing the back splash it would entail removing all of the old back splash and replacing with new. Doing so does however impose a number of potential big problems. Here are some of the considerations:

The back splash of the countertop is likely built right into the top as an integral assembly of the substrates and then was covered with the Formica and trimmed in place with a laminate trimming router. Partial disassembly in this case would likely not be successful.
If there is any age to this countertop it is unlikely that you can find matching replacement laminate material in the same pattern. The manufacturers of this material come out with dozens of new patterns and colors every year to keep pace with current trends and tastes. In addition the material can change looks over time and even new material of the same pattern may look obviously different.
Even if the back splash can be individually removed it may become very difficult to install a new suitable substrate fastened to the wall and then having laminate installed in place. This would be due to how a laminate trimming router cannot be used on a narrow 1" top that is wedged up against the wall. If the replacement back splash was made up in the shop and then brought to the installation site there would be little choice but to try to glue it to the wall and the chances of getting a very good fit down to the existing counter top are highly unlikely. After all you would not want to see screws or nails through the back splash to hold it in place.

I can see two general repair strategies that may work for you. The first is to cut out the existing back splash and replace it with something contrasting and different. Tiles can be installed in a row across the back of the counter (in fact that is what my current 35 year old house has; laminate countertop with ceramic tile back splashes in the kitchen and laminate countertops in the bathrooms with red oak board back splash trimming).
The second strategy would be to remove all of the back splash and countertop materials and build in new replacements. A professional may very well suggest a replacement countertop material that comes pre-made with an integrated back splash and laminate that is continuous across the surface from the front edge all the way across and curved up and over the rounded edges of the back splash. If you want to retain the rectangular style like you currently have that can surely be built anew by a good craftsman but if you go that route consider using plywood as the substrate instead if particle board.
Covering a countertop with Formica laminate is a style that has really gone by the wayside in the recent decades in favor or other materials such as tile, stone, marble and other fake imitations of these. This may be a time to consider an upgrade to a more modern style.


What type of hinge is this? I need to replace some bent (30 year old) hinges on our kitchen cabinets, but I don’t know what to search for. I have looked in the big box stores and haven’t seen any that resemble the kind I need. I’m hoping that I can order some online, I just don’t know what search terms to use.
To be clear, I'm not asking for a particular brand recommendation, I'm asking for the type or style of hinge.

I think that's a partial wrap overlay hinge.  Overlay means the door sits on the front of the faceframe when closed.  Partial wrap means the cabinet side of the hinge wraps along the edge of the faceframe where it is attached.  There are more components in the hinge though - maybe it's self-closing?


Is it OK to mount outdoor electrical outlet box to deck trim board? I see most places have outdoor outlet either standing by itself (via post or something hard) or mounted to wall. If I run my wiring under the deck and when it comes out, can I mount it on the side of my deck (trim board)? Or is there regulation requiring the outlet to be NOT touching the deck?

p.s. I am using outdoor rating stuffs like box and cover. PVC is used too.

As long as you can secure the box rigidly to the trim board in accordance with the box's listing and the trim board itself isn't flopping in the breeze, you have it made according to 314.23(A):

  (A) Surface Mounting. An enclosure mounted on a building or other surface shall be rigidly and securely fastened in place. If the surface does not provide rigid and secure support, additional support in accordance with other provisions of this section shall be provided.


Is it safe to unclog the kitchen sink while letting the dishwasher run? I am unclogging my kitchen sink with a chemical liquid while having my dishwasher running. Is it safe to do so? I'm afraid the chemical liquid may enter the dishwasher while it is running.

TL;DR Just open the dishwasher to pause the cycle, take care of the clog and then resume the cycle.
Unless you don't have an air gap or high hose loop at all, I don't see any problems as long as the dishwasher isn't trying to pump out water into an active clog.
It is a question of backflow prevention.
Under normal circumstances, an air gap (plastic/metal gadget on the corner of the sink with hoses to drain and to dishwasher) or a high hose loop prevents sewage water from backflowing into the dishwasher. However, with a serious sink drain clog, it is quite possible to have one of these two particularly bad situations:
Chemicals or sewage backs up into dishwasher
This really shouldn't happen, as the chemicals are being placed essentially on top of the clog. If the chemicals don't make it through the clog fast enough (before the dishwasher starts to drain) then they won't "jump" to the dishwasher. Even if you half filled the sink with chemicals (not a good idea), the chemicals would not back up into the dishwasher because the high hose loop or air gap should be significantly above the sink drain.
Dishwasher Can't Drain Properly
This is actually what I worry about more, and is an issue with the clog whether you have chemicals working on clearing it or not. If the dishwasher can't drain out the normal pipe then the water has to go somewhere. The usual place would be up the sink drain and into the sink. That is disgusting but normally not a big deal. However, with chemicals in the drain already, that could make for a dangerous mess to clean up.
However, much worse is if the drain is clogged in such a way that the dishwasher drain water can't even get into the sink. In that case, it will back up in the air gap or high hose loop. If you have an air gap then that means dirty water coming out of the air gap and onto your countertop, and possibly breaking the air gap in the process. If you have a high hose loop then it could bust the hose (either at a joint/connection or any weak spot). Or it could just result in dirty water staying inside the dishwasher - it depends on the power of the dishwasher drain pump, the length of the hose, where the clog is located and other factors.


GFCI outlet in cabinet above under-cabinet range hood Is it code-compliant to install a GFCI receptacle inside a kitchen cabinet above the range hood, and if so, does the outlet require any sort of special enclosure, and can the appliance power cord just sit there, bare, at the back of the cabinet, plugged into the GFCI outlet?

We bought an undercabinet range hood online; it was advertised as "must be hard wired".  We were replacing one that was hard-wired. However, when it arrived, instead of 12ga braided wire connectors that could be connected to the 12/2 supply line with wire nuts, it had a cord terminated with three-prong plug. The cord has fairly thin gauge insulated wire inside the sheathing, two conductors and a ground.

Turns out the model now comes with a cord, and the company no longer has models that require hard-wiring.  The wiring terminals inside the range hood are inaccessible to the customer, at least not without nearly complete disassembly of the unit. So I cannot simply remove the cord and attach thicker gauge braided wire.

I have the option of

a) returning it for a refund
or
b) running the cord up into the cabinet above through a 1" hole drilled through the cabinet base above the range hood's punchout hole, and plugging it into a GFCI outlet that would be installed in the cabinet directly above. The 12/2 supply line would enter the cabinet through a hole drilled into the back panel of the cabinet.

Is it code-compliant to install a GFCI receptacle inside a kitchen cabinet above the range hood?
Yes. It's commonplace for over-the-range microwave range hoods, and by extension would be acceptable for more conventional range hoods as well.

Does the outlet require any sort of special enclosure?
No. A standard electrical box and trim plate will do.

Can the appliance power cord just sit there, bare, at the back of the cabinet, plugged into the GFCI outlet?
Yes. The kit will often include a D-loop and screw for mounting the extra cord against the wall.


How can I replace pull switch lights with wireless remote receivers / switches? does anyone have experience with the Lightning Switch or Illumra or recommend any other remote switches for replacing the pull switch light fixtures without having to rewire the house. The tech looks pretty cool, but I want to get a few opinions if anyone here has used them.

Something like the Carlon HW2162 screw-in wireless remote switch can do the job. I used something similar to replace a pull chain in an attic. Now I can turn on the light at the door, and not have to stumble through the dark to the middle of the attic to find the pull cord.  It will set you back about $30. The installation requires no wiring and takes about 5 minutes.


How much weight can a piece of 5/8" drywall hold on a hinge? I am creating a window shutter to go over my window; the shutter is made out of drywall (the purpose is soundproofing fyi). The shutters will be hinged so they can open.

Each shutter will have 2 hinges vertically and will weigh approximately 17.5 pounds. It will be about 2 feet wide and about 4.5 feet tall.

In general, when open it will be opened all the way so it is not hanging outwards.

Moreover, on the outer side under the hinge, I will have a 1/8" piece of plywood that runs the vertical length, maybe 2-3 includes wide.

On the inner side, instead of it only going into the drywall, there will be a 1x2 piece of wood running the height of it.

So, the screws for the hinges will go through like this (bird's eye view, from above):

Screw
..... ⬇
──╫── Hinge
──╫── 1/8 plywood
══╬════════════════ 5/8" drywall
──╨── 1x2" lumber

So, the drywall is sandwiched in between 1/8" plywood and 1x2 lumber. I thought this way on both sides it is reinforced.

To be clear, although not shown in picture, the 1x2 is a free-floating strip that is separate from the studs. It is attached to the underside of the shutters only.

The other side of the hinge is screwed directly to the studs on the frame.

Here is a quick photoshop demonstrating intent.

Will this work, or how much weight can a piece of 5/8" drywall hold?

From what you describe it should work but better would be to also glue those wood strips to the face of the drywall pieces using some construction adhesive.

I think it will look a but hokey and crude, especially with the open raw edges of the drywall all around.


Attaching a PTFE tube inside a bigger PTFE tube I have two PTFE tubes:

A thin one: OD 4mm, ID 2mm
A thick one: OD 6mm, ID 4mm

The thin one fits inside the thick one, and I want to glue them together so they'll have a strong connection. Glues don't work well, because it's PTFE.

I tried the following:

As you can see, I used heat-shrink tubing for the connection above. This is stronger than glue but still not strong enough, the tubes slip away if pulled hard enough.

I've seen all kinds of metal PTFE connectors online, but I can't figure out which one I should use for this specific task. Can anyone help?

I would put a metal sleeve inside the smaller tube then use hose clamps on the outer tube which should produce sufficient compression.

The disadvantage is that these tubes slide easily, but if the pressure is not too high then it will work.


Replace permatreated 4x4 Hand rail post on step where concrete holding it has cracked? I bought a home 8 months ago where the deck handrail was planted at the edge of a concrete step as a 4x4 on the bottom step. The concrete at the edge of the step has cracked, the hand rail is wobbly, and has been fixed again (with some concrete repair mix) and has failed again. The concrete has cracked and been replaced. What would you recommend to fix it?

I'd remove the wooden post, do a full repair of the broken step, and install a bolt-on steel or aluminum post with a vinyl cover on the step below.

Of course, this requires a rebuild of your rail assembly to extend it, but it should be full-length anyway.


220 outlet burnt caused other outlets to go out breaker didn't trip A outlet in LR was plugged in but not in use burnt up as seen in pictures. Many other outlets and porch light went out also. The breaker didn't trip. By the looks of it I think it is copper. I cleaned out and wrapped the two corroded non black but burnt wires with electrical tape and replaced with a new outlet. Everything turned back on. I want to know if I should have it checked by an electrician to be safe and make sure the wire didn't burn further up in the cloth stuff that it is coming out of. I didn't pull it out or cut any but one small burnt piece off.

You wrapped those burnt wires in electrical tape and turned it back on?  Please turn off that breaker and get an electrician in.  And check that your smoke detectors have working batteries.  At the very least all the wire in that box probably needs replacing.

The outlet likely caught fire from a loose connection.  The other outlets affected are probably downstream from this one - power for them flows through that outlet, which is why it has 2 sets of wires.  It is possible for this to happen without tripping the breaker.  The loose connection acts more like a heating element, using lots of power but not enough to trip the breaker.  An AFCI breaker might have tripped, but even then might not.

The wiring needs to be checked properly and any damaged sections replaced.


Reconfiguring GFCI circuit protection Forgive me if this is basic or redundant, but I couldn't find any questions addressing my specific scenario.
I've got a GFCI outlet in my garage which also protects three separate outdoor outlets.  I have a refrigerator plugged into this because it's the only outlet in my garage.  I've had it trip a couple of times over the years when the only load on the entire circuit is the refrigerator.  More often, I've had it trip with things plugged in outside such as Christmas lights.  I'd like to avoid this so that such an event doesn't leave the refrigerator without power.
Is the solution as simple as replacing the garage outlet with a standard one and each of the three outdoor outlets with GFCIs?

Yes, but you'll violate Code if you do.  Garage outlets need GFCI also.
Your best bet is to crack open that box, and extend the circuit to a 1-socket recep marked "Refrigerator Only" installed at a location of your convenience.  It's good to eliminate extension cords as part of this, but err on the side of "within your skill level".
A "Fridge only" labeled 1-socket recep is also technically a Code violation, but one most AHJs will cheerfully provide waivers for.
If the walls are open, then extend off the existing box, to your new box, using normal wiring methods.
If the walls are closed up, use a system such as Legrand's Wiremold surface conduit.  Start with a "Surface conduit starter box" that extends the existing outlet to give you about 1" of sidewall to attach the surface conduit.  (mind you this surface conduit can go 1 inch).  Then you install a surface box.  To cable between  them, buy black, white and green THHN/THWN individual wires (about 2' longer than the conduit) and run them down the conduit.
Either way, into the new box you install a 1-socket receptacle (which are weirdly more expensive than 2-socket types; economies of scale gone wild!) And get the correct 1-socket cover plate; very important since you must label it.
The new socket attaches to the LINE side of the GFCI outlet - not the LOAD side.  Almost all GFCI receps provide a way to put 2 wires under or behind the LINE screws.


Connecting an 18AWG wire to a 20AWG wire I have some equipment that is powered by an AC/DC power plug. The plug input is 100-240V - 50/60Hz 0.8A. The output is 12V 2A.

The wire for the plug is a bit short, so I want to extend its reach. I found a power adapter extension that connects properly (2.1mm x 5.5mm, Male to Female) (it's here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTFYH0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

However, this extension uses UL2468 / 20AWG while the cord coming out of the AC/DC power plug is 18AWG. Can I safely use the power adapter extension with this AC/DC power plug, or do I risk damaging the equipment?

Here is a link to a table that shows #20 AWG wire is good for 10 amps at 30ºC.

I am pretty sure you will be just fine.

Good luck!


Calculating the inner diameter of a sleeve for wrapping a bundle cables in a house Let's assume I'm wiring a house with ethernet cables. Cables will be bundled together and each bundle will be wrapped in a sleeve to protect cables from rodents (amongst other benefits). Sleeves come in predefined inner diameters, e.g. 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" and so forth. While ethernet cables can be measured as 22 AWG to 28 AWG, external diameter may vary due to its cable jacket.

Let's assume I have a bundle consisting of 6 cables with a max diameter of 4mm. The 4mm may include a protective sleeve. My understanding is that given the diameter of a single cable, I can calculate its area.

var cableDiameter = 4;
var cableArea = ((cableDiameter * cableDiameter) * Math.PI) / 4;

To get the area of the bundle of cables, I can multiply it by the number of cables:

var cableCount = 6;
var bundleArea = cableArea * cableCount;

And then what's left if to calculate the diameter of the bundle:

var bundleDiameter = Math.Sqrt((bundleArea * 4)/ Math.PI);

I can then convert that to inches.

var inch = 25.4;
var bundleDiameterInches = Math.Round(bundleDiameter / inch, 2);

Which gives me a 9.8mm or 0.39” for the diameter of the bundle consisting of six cables with a diameter of 4mm (28 AWG), which implies I can use a sleeve with an inner diameter of 3/8” provided it can stretch to 0.39". For a bundle consisting of 6.5mm cables (24 AWG), a sleeve with an inner diameter of 5/8” or 3/4” may suffice.

But it seems my calculations may be a bit too optimistic. It doesn't include room for cables to flex when the bundle of cables are bent. I also read that other factors of the cable, such as heat and interference, may require additional spacing around each cable.

What other factors should be taken into account when calculating the diameter of a bundle of cables for wrapping them in a sleeve?

I would not attempt bundling the cables before installing them in the sleeves / conduits / raceways, it will be counterproductive.

Electrical codes have guidelines for conduit fill.  For example in the US, the National Electrical Code has a base rule for power wiring that you can fill 40% of the cross sectional area of a conduit or raceway.  (I am oversimplifying, there's more to these rules, but not important here.)

The 40% guideline doesn't really apply as a rule to a protective sleeve for ethernet cables, but it is still a good guideline for you to use.  You can cheat a little, especially if the conduit is more or less straight.  It can get hard to pull more cable than this through conduit, and you should not tug very hard on ethernet cables.

Incidentally, be aware that there are limits on how many bends you can have in a conduit / raceway because as you accumulate bends it gets very hard to pull cable through.  Do not cheat on this part - in fact try to have less bends than the rules permit.  The NEC allows 360 degrees of total bend (for example, four 90 degree bends, eight 45 degree bends, etc.) but for communications, it's better to limit it to 270 degrees total bend.

You are using wire gauges for your cables but those are irrelevant, what matters is the outer diameter of the cable jackets.

The cross sectional fill is easy enough to calculate, but you can find lots of conduit fill charts and calculators online that will do the math for you.  The code / algorithm snippets in the question are the kind of logic embedded in those calculators.


Should my chimney cooker hood have a flue? I have a chimney-style cooker hood over my hob. Today I removed the cover from the chimney, expecting there to be a flue behind it going outside the building, but there wasn't.

Does this mean that the hood has been installed incorrectly? Is it actually doing anything? Shouldn't there be a flue to remove the fumes from my kitchen?

Apologies if this is a stupid question but it seemed odd that my cooker hood should just release the fumes back into my kitchen!

There are two basic stove/range/hob type hoods. Externally vented would have a flue of some sort that vent smoke ,fumes and odors to the exterior. An internally vented type just filters and recirculates the air back into the kitchen. To make things more confusing most hoods can be set up to operate in either mode. The conversion usually involves installing or removing a metal blocking plate. Both styles require occasional cleaning of the filters to limit grease buildup. I would want to verify that the hood is installed correctly. With the fan on high you should feel air being drawn in and exhausted somewhere. It may be drawn in and exhausted under the hood. Make sure that the unit does not vent into an interior wall cavity or an attic as this would be a fire hazard.


How to find joists through sheetmetal ceiling? I have an antique sheetmetal ceiling of historical importance in my centenarian vintage home.  As I am currently in the last stages of installing an AC system and the parts of the house that have vintage ceiling get exposed spiral pipe as to avoid ugly soffits or other forms of ceiling destruction (looks very, very cool), I actually need to suspend the pipe in one or two places.  The ceiling is on the first floor and there is a carpeted bedroom above. From demolishing a patch of such a ceiling in another part of the house, I know (with a high degree of certainty) that between the joists and the sheetmetal is lath and plaster. I suppose I could anchor it into 3/8" lath but I would prefer a joist for extra firmness.

The problem, as you can imagine, is locating ceiling joists through a sheetmetal ceiling.  I tried a really nice stud finder (Bosch) but that did not help much as the sheetmetal is blocking the signal.  I also tried using it through the carpet upstairs but the experience was similar.  Any idea how I can find a joist with a relative degree of certainty, as any mistake will leave a visible hole in the ceiling?

You might be able to pull the carpet a bit in a corner of the room.  Perhaps you can find nails holding down the subfloor to the joists.  A good place to start would be a closet where it would be easy to hide and tack back down.  From this point it might be easier to guess what the typical joist spacing would be.

Typically ceiling joists will be spaced 12", 16", 19.2" or 24" OC.  Rather than damage the ceiling it would be easier to pull up some carpet upstairs and try driving a nail or screw at each of these lengths and see which length grabs a joist.


Is it possible to restore teak furniture that has been stained dark to original finish? I have some teak furniture that was stained a dark finish years ago by mistake. I am wondering if its possible to sand the furniture back to the original finish or sand blast? Would it work and then it could be oiled to restore to original?

Teak is one of my most favorite woods. It naturally has a high oil content that resists much penetration. While it can fade to a grey-ish look, light sanding can restore it easily.

In your case, a mild citrus stripper such as CitriStrip is environmentally  friendly and pretty effective.  Just experiment with applying it to parts, let it be for a while (like 30-60 minutes) and wash it off.  Learn as you go. A wire brush or steel wool are also good tools, but if you use steel wool, be sure to completely rinse and dry the area, steel wool can stain wood.

Let it dry for a while and then oil it.   It should be good as new.


What is the service wire sizing based off of on a temporay power pole? I know how to use the wire sizing tables, but I'm unclear on how to size wire before a breaker, and when the panel has no main breaker.

For example, If I have a temp power service panel that is rated for 125 amps, and does not have a master breaker, and has 6 breaker slots, and I plan to install one 20 amp and one 30 amp breaker, do I size the service entrance wire (from weather head to meter to panel) based on:

a. 50 Amps, the sum of the intended number of breakers
b. 125 Amps, because that is what the panel is rated for
c. Some other calculation?

I've been reading through the NEC on service entrances, and the sizing recommendations are for things like schools, hospitals, houses, farms, etc, but doesn't (at least that I can find) clearly state the service wire sizing rules for a temp pole. Normally you would base this off of the main breaker size, but since temp poles don't have main breakers is it the sum of all breakers, or the max rating of the bus?

Does anyone know what code section covers this?

According to the National Electrical Code 2017, the service-entrance conductors should be sized based on the loads being served.

National Electrical Code 2017
Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection
Article 230 Services
230.42 Minimum Size and Rating
(A) General. Service-entrance conductors shall have an ampacity of not less than the maximum load to be served. Conductors shall be sized to carry not less than the largest of 230.42(A)(1) or (A)(2). Loads shall be determined in accordance with Part III, IV, or V of Article 220, as applicable. Ampacity shall be determined from 310.15. The maximum allowable current of busways shall be that value for which the busway has been listed or labeled.
(1) Where the service-entrance conductors supply continuous loads or any combination of noncontinuous and continuous loads, the minimum service-entrance conductors size shall have an allowable ampacity not less than the sum of the noncontinuous loads plus 125 percent of the continuous loads.
(2) The minimum service-entrance conductor size shall have an ampacity not less than the minimum load to be served after the application of any adjustment or correction factors.


What kind of IKEA screw is this? This is a screw on the side of an IKEA drawer. On line videos say turn it left or right to level the front of the door. Instructions are to use a Phillips screwdriver. It's not a Phillips head and the local hardware store doesn't recognize it.

That's a Pozidriv head that might have been chewed up a little by the inappropriate use of a Phillips screwdriver.

Public Domain Image

Phillips #2 on the left, Pozidriv #2 on the right.

Pozidriv screwdrivers come in three main sizes, usually named PZ3, PZ2 and PZ1 from largest to smallest. There is also a rarely seen PZ0. The most common is PZ2. You should use the largest bit that will engage the screw fully.

Here are some examples of Pozidriv screwdriver bits for interchangeable-bit screwdrivers (hand screwdrivers and power screwdrivers)

It is essential to

Use a Pozidriv bit, never a Phillips bit
Use the correct sized Pozidriv bit.

Used correctly, Pozidriv bits are much more positive than Phillips and are far less likely to "cam-out" (lift and slip under torque).

Phillips screws often don't stand up to repeated use unless you are exceptionally careful. For use in the home, Pozidriv predominates in the UK and much of Europe. Canadian homeowners seem to prefer Robertson (square recess), others Allen (hexagonal recess). It may be that IKEA's European roots explain why it used Pozidriv for this application (although they seem very fond of Allen bolts).

Useful resources

Wikipedia: List of screw types
Is it a bad idea to use a Pozidriv screwdriver on a Phillips head?
Why does my drill bit destroy the screw head?


Should a chainsaw go dull so quickly? I recently moved to a new home which had a lot of felled trees which needed to be bucked up into logs.  I bought a 14" Husqvarna 967158004 to accomplish this.

The shop I bought it from gave me a lot of maintenance information which was greatly appreciated because I don't have extensive experience with chainsaws.  I have checked chain tension before and after every use and kept the chain oil reservoir full.

My concern is that after what couldn't be more than 8 or 9 hours of use, the chain already seems to have trouble cutting ( Engine is good, this is a cutting issue ).

Is this typical wear I should expect?

Do I need to replace the chain or should I sharpen it?

I know it can be resharpened, but is it worth doing so?

Yeah, when I first started using chainsaws, I was naïve to the idea of "sharpening a chain". The very fact that you were able to get 9 hours out of it tells me you were like me.  My first chain, the chain cut subtly worse and worse and worse and worse, and I didn't realize it, because like the frog in the cookpot... until I couldn't stand it anymore.

First I paid the local lawnmower shop to sharpen them.  Then I discovered my local Stihl dealer would swap me for a new chain for $10. After about 3, he sold me some chain files.  Then I found a $6 flat file holder that makes filing much easier.  Files are a consumable, and I don't even try to adjust chain height: when the height is low I just go back to the Stihl dealer and get a new chain.

Now, I can't stand how badly my chain cuts after even an hour. I typically give it a quickie sharpen everytime I add chain lube, and it cuts like a lightsaber again.


Why are bulbs burning out quickly in newly installed light fixtures? I installed five incandescent, recessed light fixtures in the cathedral ceiling of my living room. The fixtures are wired in parallel series (A connects to B connects to C ...). All the wiring is done correctly.

However, the fixtures are burning out bulbs very quickly. More quickly than normal, in my experience. Some of the bulbs were expensive LED bulbs and the rest were incandescent floods.

What should I check?  I really don't want to open and recheck every fixture, even though they are easily accessible from the attic. I need some idea of what to look for.

I would look for a voltage drop caused by a loose connection in a junction box they tap from or service panel if they all do it, or individually if only certain ones do it. Putting a 100watt lamp in a 40watt socket is a safety(heat)issue (how much heat the fixture is rated to handle), if the fixture cant throw off the heat it would affect the lamps life some, but not that fast.


Basement bathroom -- acceptable wet vent to use wye into main sewer line? I finished my basement and added a bathroom (sink + toilet) and a wet bar (sink).  I am using a SaniPLUS system.  My original plan was to (reluctantly) run an open air vent from the basement, up through the garage to the laundry room above and tie into the vent line running up through the attic to the roof.  This would require ripping down drywall in garage walls, ceilings, and in the laundry room.  However, while searching online, I came across a video on YouTube from TheSaniFlow Store where he clearly is using the main sewer line in the basement as the wet vent.  Jump to 4:25 in this video to see it described very clearly.  I was surprised at this interpretation of wet venting but would be perfect for me...
Wet vents are permitted in my jurisdiction as my house (built in 2015) employs them throughout.  Can I avoid all of the drywall rip/tear/rebuild and tie the SaniPLUS vent in as a went vent as described in the image below?  Vent would be red, waste would be blue -- both wye'd into the main line adjacent to one another.  Interestingly, the drain from the 2nd floor laundry is the existing wye shown in this image -- not sure if that helps me in my wet vent strategy as well?

My thought is that the Laundry line (up between the joists) might be what you really want to tap into for a wet vent in this situation, as opposed to dropping into the main line. 4DFUs of drainage in a 2" pipe is what you have (washer plus laundry/utility sink, each 2 DFUs), and is the maximum amount allowed for a wet vent of that size. Buys you a few inches over the main line (and will be effectively a dry vent 99% of the time.)


Any methods to cover yourself when dealing with smell during repair I was thinking of using a mask to cover my nose so that smell / smoke will not get into my nose while I am doing some repair work.

Beside using mask, are there better alternative such that I can still breathe normally? (The mask do make breathing quite difficult sometime. The worse case is using a oxygen tank but it seems to be a "over-kill" solution.)

Would appreciate if picture / illustration can be included.

In your case a fully isolating mask connected to some source of fresh air is the best solution. Perhaps you could get without a tank and just have two pipes that end somewhere where there's no substance you protect from - not sure if it works, but worth considering.

The problem with the mask is it has pretty limited blocking capacity - if the substance has high concentration the mask filter will get saturated pretty soon and the mask will get ineffective. Add to this that it complicates breath and it's clear that the mask is not always the best option.


Can you polish a concrete pier block? I've been searching google for awhile but can't find a straight answer (every link is about walls/floors):

Can I polish (or sand to be smoother at least) a concrete pier block?

I have this one from Home Depot. I want to put it somewhere where it will be exposed and currently they are extremely flaky on the bottom (and somewhat sharp even) and a bit smoother on the sides. I would like it to be smoother so it looks nicer and doesn't shed everywhere. Then I plan to seal it to protect it from the elements. Is this possible or is this type of concrete not right for sanding/polishing/sealing?

Definitely can be polished!

Step 1. Grind the flaking on the bottom with a 3"or 5"diamond cupwheel any grit will work. OR JUST CHIP AWAY WITH HAMMER AND SCREW DRIVER

Step 2. Use polishing grout or rock hard setting powder cement  and fill the porosity in the block with a 6 inch metal spatula. It may take 2 coats and let dry overnight.

Step 3. take a 100 grit polishing puck and with your hand smooth the block out. Once smooth use a lithium silicate densifier. I recommend endurapolish by H&C one gallon about $35. apply 4 -5 coats Since its porous.  Let dry 4 hours or overnight the longer the better but overnight is more than enough. This creates the hard surface that makes it possible to polish.

Step 4. Polish and Seal, Burnish
Polish with 400 ,800, and 1500 or even 3000 grit polishing pucks your choice. You may be satisfied with the 400 grit. Either by hand with a single 3" puck or with 5" polishing pad on a variable speed polishing hand grinder. Note if densifier will still absorb add coats between the stages of the polishing phase. Once satisfied with the mirror shine and look apply and Outdoors UV Penetrating Concrete Sealer preferably high shine or we look. Don't over do it just as apply one thin coat with a microfiber pad or rag. Let dry and burnish with a 5 inch 3000 grit burnishing pad on a hand grinder at a high speed at least 3000 rpms. Repeat as needed.


How can I mark the damage on wood floors that are to be resurfaced? During the build process, the flooring (Hickory Wood with a water-based sealer) had some marks.  The marks appear to be from someone getting stain on their shoes.  There are moon shaped spots in quite a few areas.

My builder is coming to resurface the floor tomorrow and I want to mark up the floor in a way he can see them and make sure they are taken care of.  Although the whole floor is going to be resurfaced, I just want to make sure he is aware of all the spots.

What can I use to mark those spots that won't interfere with the sanding or re-sealing processes?

I would just put down some green/blue painters tape around the spots.  This tape has low-adhesion so it is less likely to remove any finish.  Just make sure the builder removes the tape before refinishing.


Advice on how to remove a faucet cartridge Trying to replace our faucet's leaking cartridge ( hot water ) and having problems removing the old one.

I was able to unscrew the top part but insides stuck and won't come out.

I can turn it with pliers but it doesn't seem to come out at all.  I  also tried to yank it out but it will not budge.

It looks like what we call a "Delex" cartridge; the original version was manufactured by Delta but there are knock-offs using the design now.

Once the retainer nut has been removed, that cartridge is just pressed in; keep yanking directly upward and it will come loose. I sometimes craft a "pull handle" with a flat piece of steel (like a crossbar for a light fixture) and screw that to the stem using the handle screw, giving me something to pull on with both hands.

Don't make the mistake of just swapping out the cartridge; the actual seal washer is below, with a spring under it.


How can I hang a shelf on a paneled wall of a mobile home? I would like to hang a shelf on the wall of my Mobile Home. This is my first mobile home, it's a 1977. The wall are paneled. Should I use a toggle bolt? If so, EXACTLY how do I use one?

Most mobile homes have studs, though they are often smaller than the 2x4s you'd find in a house.  If you can't find the studs, or don't want to attach the shelf to the studs. You can use toggle bolts to attach the shelf to the wall, though the weight capacity of the shelf may be limited.

Follow the manufacturers installation instructions, to install the shelf using toggle bolts.

The manufacturers documentation should also list what materials are suitable to use the toggle bolts with, and the load capacity of the toggle bolt.


How deep do I cement a 21' tall, schedule 40 galvanized steel pole? I have recently installed a new basketball goal for my kids. I now need to install a net behind it as the balls tend to end up in the neighbor's yard over and over again and it drives their dogs crazy.

I need to go up 17' with the poles (top of the basketball goal backboard with rim at 10' is 13' so I want to go up 4' over that).

I purchased two 21' schedule 40 galvanized steel pipes (3") along with #4 rebar and some 5/8" stainless steel all thread that I plan on putting through the base of the poles in a criss cross fashion to prevent the poles from turning in the concrete.

My question is how deep do I need to bury the poles? There will be no "load" on the poles as the net weighs less than 40lbs total. I have read everything from two feet to 8 feet.. My plan was to dig 4' down and 16" in diameter flared at the bottom of the hole and then plumb the poles and fill with concrete. About have way through the fill I was going to throw in 4 - 3' #4 rebar vertically then continue to fill.

My other question was the use of a solotube as opposed to just a hole in the ground with a flare at the bottom. Should I use the solotube sans the flared bottom or just dig the hole and flare it?

We live in central Phoenix so frost/freezing is almost never a problem.

Thanks

4 feet is probably an overkill. The building code in my area requires 30 inches for deck supports where the load is much greater.

You don't need rebar or a tube, just pour Quikrete mix it with water in the hole while holding (or somehow supporting) the steel poles. In 10 - 15 minutes the concrete will set enough so you can remove the supports.


Can you diagnose coolant leak in a refrigerator by blowing hot air on the back? An "engineer" has recently investigated my 10+ (that's my estimation - we bought it together with our apartment) year old Smeg FB30 refrigerator and claimed that the coolant gas is leaking from the pipes at the back. He did the diagnosis by blowing hot air from a hair dryer at the back of the refrigerator (the gas pipes are running beneath a plate at the back). When the heated back plate started to yield under pressure in one place, the repair guy said that coolant gas is leaking and he recommended to replace the refrigerator (as it is quite old).

I have some doubts whether this is a serious diagnosis. Do people test refrigerators for gas leaks in this way, or was the guy just, well, blowing hot air?

This is amusing.  No, I cannot think of how a hair dryer could be used as the key diagnostic tool in determining a refrigerant leak in a refrigerator.

That said, I have used a hair dryer on several occasions to accelerate removal of ice where a "frostless" fridge had a malfunctioning defrost cycle and ice had accumulated on the coils (caution: do not try this unless you know to avoid potentially heat sensitive parts).  Certain vintage GE units were notorious for this about 10 years ago.  Those units had several temperature sensors that would go bad, failing to regulate the temperature and activate the defrost when required and also they had main control boards that would go bad, failing to run the condenser fan as required.

The common signs of a leak are:  (1) The unit is low on charge, causing poor performance overall and the evaporator coil very rapidly accumulates ice progressively from one end until the whole coil is coated, and (2) trace amounts of oil around the area of the leak, although this is sometimes impossible to find.  To find such a leak these days, one would commonly use an electronic leak detection tool.

If someone knows how a hair dryer can be used for diagnosing refrigerant leaks (other than melting ice to see the coils), then please post it here so I can read it.

Edit:  If the fridge cools well and heavy frost takes several days or weeks to accumulate on the coil, then this could possibly be due to a failed electric defrost coil.  These can be checked with an ohm meter and are typically not too difficult to replace.

Edit 2:  It appears the SMEG FB30 is not equipped with an electric defrost coil and it merely shuts of the compressor to melt accumulated frost, so my comment above is not applicable to your unit.


Can I put gypsum and paint finish on top of a concrete fast set repair mortar? I have a finished concrete pillar in my living room that I need to be patched and painted.
The pillar has final gypsum and paint on top of concrete. Since the concrete is chipped off I need to use a fast set repair mortar (such as QUIKRETE® FastSet™ Repair Mortar) to repair the concrete.

But I don't know if the gypsum material can be added on top of the repair mortar or not? is there a specific product that I can add on top to prepare the surface for paint?

I would use a setting joint compound (maybe durabond) rather than mud because it's more durable and moisture resistant.  It's more time-consuming to sand, however.  Either should stick to concrete and both should get a coat of primer before painting.  If have old or really glossy concrete, you can prep the surface with a little Muriatic acid to etch the surface and get a better bond, but that shouldn't be necessary for fresh-cured mortar.


Concrete steps along exterior wall I'm building concrete steps along the hillside parallel to my exterior wall.
Lower part of the wall is concrete foundation and upper part is stucco/felt paper/plywood and wall studs. Part of the steps will be against the stucco.

I know I need a water barrier between the concrete and the stucco part of the wall.
Can I just use felt paper? Or self-adhered flashing?
I was thinking originally of using galvanized steel roll along the wall but it would be a pain to cut it to match the steps along the wall.

Note : I've used rubber paint to reseal my foundation and I'll have a french drain under the concrete steps.

Also, this is in Socal (not much rain), and this wall is covered by a large eave (so water is not coming down that wall).

Thanks.

Of the 3 options you mentioned,  self-adhered flashing is the best option for a barrier.  However, I would take care to have a metal dripper above the flashing to ensure rainwater along the wall does not seep down between the flashing and the stucco.


Cutting carbon-steel sheet with a sliding grinder I am new to metalworking and I want to cut some 2mm carbon-steel sheet using my grinder and proper disk. My points are:

I can not afford to buy a plasma for awhile
I want to slice pieces of 800 x 200mm in triangle shape
buying flat bars doesn't solve my problem.

I want to cut 3 or 4 pieces per weekend and I my main question here is: Can I work using this tool without destroying it?
Because as a beginner I have the impression that this is too much stress on the tool. Thanks.

A right angle disk grinder with an abrasive disk will work for the task you describe. Expect to see the abrasive disk slowly reduce in diameter at first, then more quickly as it gets smaller. This is an aspect of the abrasive material sacrificing itself to move steel.
To prevent destruction of the disk, it is important for it to remain in the plane of the cut. You can purchase a tool into which your right angle grinder will clamp, providing this restraint, or you can build your own from a number of plans and instructions on the internet. I used search terms, "DIY right angle grinder cutting jig" and found too many to list.
There are variations using wood as the construction material as well as metal strap and sheet and plate. Your DIY choice obviously would be based on your skill set, tools and materials available to you. The purchase options vary in cost, yet another parameter to consider.

The image above is from a randomly selected YouTube thumbnail. Videos of different construction options are plentiful.


Can these be support columns with these brackets Is there any way these columns with the top and bottom brackets can be supporting columns. If I can't tell by the brackets, I will need to break into their drywall at places to see if it or another beam is supporting.  I want to remove them.[Images

Image2

Yes, those posts are probably supporting the beam (above). You’ll need to determine the load on the beam, size of existing beam, span from post(s) to wall, and location of footings.

The post without the metal base connector may just be decorative...to match the other post. However, either hire an architect or structural engineer OR submit more info regarding beam sizes, spans, footing locations, etc. for additional help.


Installed Lutron Caseta, one bulb works, but two do not I've been installing Lutron Caseta dimmers all throughout my house. Everything has been fine except my back porch where I have two lights.

If I only put a bulb in one light, it works fine, dims, etc.

If I put bulbs in both lights, they either flash on and off, or pop and stop working.

Any idea what's going on?

I'm using dimmable LED bulbs for the back porch where I'm having problems. The rest of what I've changed over is built in LED cans.

There's a lot of garbage brands in the LED bulb game, and even if it's not a garbage bulb not all dimmer products are tested against all dimmable LEDs. One of these is likely your problem.

Fortunately, Lutron actually makes known compatibility information pretty easily accessible with a wizard that can be found here: http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Education-Training/Pages/LCE/DimmingCFLsandLEDs.aspx

If you are already using a bulb suggested by that wizard, then I'd start by trying to replace the dimmer with one that was already working inside to rule out a defect in that. If the dimmer is not defective and there's no compatibility problem, it must be either the wiring or the light fixtures themselves.

I've never installed one of those dimmers myself, but Lutron is a generally reliable brand. That's why I'm assuming it's incompatibility. But if you weren't using LEDs out there previously, it makes a wiring issue more likely - LEDs are more sensitive to wiring issues than other bulbs.


Can I put a fan control switch on a window air conditioner to quiet it down Can I use something like this to control a window air conditioner so it will run quieter?

Variable Speed Fan Control, Wall Mount, Rated 15.0 Amps @ 120 VAC for use with Shaded Pole and PSC Motors

Assuming the motor for the AC fan is of the proper type, "shaded pole" or "PSC", then yes, if you opened up the unit and tapped-in to the fan control circuit itself.  This device would not work if you tried to power the entire AC unit from it.

I suspect, however, that the motor is neither of the above types.  Further, you are looking at significant safety risks by modifying a self-contained AC unit in this way.  It would certainly void any manufacturer warranty and may also create a safety hazard.

Most window AC units I've seen have a built in speed control.  Is there some reason why you can't just use what is designed into the unit?


Rheem RPLB-030JAZ - is it a Heat Pump or AC unit? I recently purchased a home that came with a "heat pump", however when I look on the box outside my house it says:

Rheem Air Conditioner
Model RPLB-030JAZ

I cannot find anything on this when searching on the internet nor did the previous owners leave me any receipts or user manuals.

How can I confirm if this is a HEAT PUMP or not?
Does anyone know where I could get the user manual?

Thanks,

Rheem's own website does seem remarkably unhelpful in suporting your equipment. Searching for RPLB there turns up no results...a sad effort indeed. You should contact them and request information and a manual, and perhaps vent a bit about the website not admitting your product exists.

This document from NYC.gov does suggest that what you have is probably a 30K btu/hr heat pump, though it only gets as specific as

RPLB 030* and * leads to a note of "with suffixes"

Do you have an "inside unit"? if so, look for an access cover on that, which may have your manual stuck inside it (possibly in an envelope taped to the inside of the panel.)


Is it acceptable to use a lighted switch with a switched outlet? The bedrooms in our house in California each have a light switch that controls power to an outlet in the room. The switches are the single-pole type, interrupting the black/hot wire. Is it acceptable to use lighted switches in this situation?  (E.g., a Lutron single-pole switch with indicator light.)

I replaced the switch with a lighted one, and it seemingly works, but the outlet reads as open-neutral when I plug in a receptacle tester when the light switch is in the off position.  I guess this is because the indicator light inside the switch probably draws current from hot and ground. What I don't know is if this arrangement is a problem or against code.

UPDATE: I tried replacing the lighted switch with an otherwise identical non-illuminated switch, with no other changes made, and lo and behold, the tester does not read open neutral when the switch is in the off position.

FWIW, the tester that I'm using looks very similar to this:

Also, because my description was unclear about the switch I mean, here's an image taken from a Leviton website (not the same brand but same idea):

I see no problem with installing an indicator type one pole switch to control a receptacle.


Using Attic/Loft Space Above Garage for Storage - Adding a Subfloor I have a 2-car garage that is not cooled or heated. Above the garage is an attic/loft space. The attic has beams (they are large beams, not 2-by-4s) that are spaced 16 inches apart. The beams have pink fiber insulation in-between them. The insulation has a vapor barrier on the underside. I did a lot of research online and think my questions will apply to a number of people. I couldn't find a single source that answered all of my questions.

1) Before I add a plywood subfloor do I need to add an additional vapor barrier (the insulation already has one)?

2) I watched a Georgia Pacific instructional video on YouTube and they said to leave 1/8 of an inch in-between the 4x8 plywood boards, I thought you were supposed to butt them up against one another?

3) Will 1/2 inch thick plywood work in my situation?

4) What kind of screws should I use? Will 1 inch decking screws work?

5) Should I lay the plywood perpendicular to the beams?

If the cords on the trusses are larger than 2x4 than it sounds like they used storage trusses designed to carry a little more load than normal.

1) No don't worry about another vapor barrier especially since it is a garage. The first one helps keep moisture out of the insulation which degrades its ability.

2) Good idea. A small gap allows the plywood to expand and contract with humidity and temperature without bowing.

3) If you are walking on the plywood then I like 5/8" since it doesn't spring as much under my weight (225 lbs), and even more so if you are storing items with significant weight to them.

4) Decking screws should be fine. I would go to 1 1/2" but you are just trying to keep the wood from shifting. 8d nails would work fine too.

5) Plywood and OSB have a higher strength to them lengthwise to span the rafters and carry the weight of the roof. So, yes lay the plywood or OSB perpendicular to the trusses. There is a good discussion of strength orientation here and they say plywood is generally stronger in its long dimension unless otherwise marked.

Good luck!


Samsung oven tripping main fuse I have a Samsung bf641fst and when using the fast heating setting the main fuse trips.

The only way I can get the oven working without tripping the fuse is by using the oven settings without any fan settings included.

Your oven's fan motor is shot -- replace it

It sounds like your oven's fan motor has a ground fault in it due to insulation breakdown (this is a common cause of motor failure -- its why insulation resistance tests are part of PM for heavy industrial motors).  I'd start by replacing the fan motor as this only happens if the fan is used.  If it continues, I'd keep hunting for the ground fault.


Where does the electricity induced in the shield flow from a CAT6a S/FTP cable? I was wondering, when an S/FTP cable has some outer noise and there is electricity induced in its shielding, where does it go? I have a keystone wall outlet which is metal (with plastic cover), and the keystone modules are metal as well. Does the electricity flow through these metallic elements and go to the wall by the outlet, or does it go to the grounding of the router? If the second option is true, can it cause any problem in the system when I don't have a grounded router?

Edit: Snip Tyson already linked Siemons paper.

That gives a pretty good idea of the setup.

In a nutshell the mechs in the patch panel are earthed via the patch panel to the rack frame which then should be bonded to a communications earth.

Not sure what standards are worldwide, in Australia the communications earth is bonded to the electrical earth at the switchboard or earth stake.

There will be relevant standards regarding distances, cable sizes and colours and so on. Should be covered under electrical or comms standards.


How do I change the time on a Potterton EP 3000 clock? I turned the power off and when I turned it back on again, the clock of my Potterton EP3000 was reset, and now the heating comes on at the wrong time. I dont have a manual for it, so I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to change the time on the clock. I've searched the internet for hours and haven't found anything specific to the EP3000.

Having just asked my own question about an EP3000, I think I know the answer to this one. The current time (and all your programmed on/off times) are preserved during a power outage by a little rechargeable battery that's kept topped up by the mains. But like any rechargeable battery, it's got a finite life. Yours may have died some time ago - you just didn't notice until you switched the power off.

I didn't bother trying to prise the battery out of mine (which is also dead), but based on this discussion it's almost certainly a Varta 250DK. It's an oval about 30x40, 70mm long, containing 8 x 1.2 NiCad cells (9.6 volt total).

You need a bit of confidence (and brute force!) to prise the programmer off its back-plate which is screwed to the wall. It's "half-hinged" on the top, but there's a moulded "retaining latch" on the bottom right. Look from underneath and you'll see a 5mm "slot" about 5cm in from the bottom right. Push a screwdriver hard up there to free the latch, and simultaneously pull/prise the bottom edge of the programmer outward and upward.

I can't say exactly where you'll get a replacement (I doubt Varta still make them). The important thing is it should be an 8-cell 9.6v NiCad (don't use Li-ion or whatever). If you take the old one in to Maplin or similar they might be able to supply something compatible.

Other options are: Expensive - pay an electrician/gasman to come and deal with it; Cheap - just live with it and get used to reprogramming the thing whenever you've had a power cut or turned it off for some reason.


Why can't you use push connectors to extend a short wire when they are used like that when installing LED pot lights in parallel? A typical led pot lights installation looks like this, with two or three ways push connectors in the box used to connect this light to the previous one and to extend the wire to the next one
When you need to extend a wire that is short why can't you use a two ways push connector the same way? (let's say it is close to a pot light so by removing the pot light it is at an arm length distance in the ceiling so you can practically reach to it)

Use a NM splice kit
These sort of rework applications are precisely why Tyco and others make special NM splice kits designed to provide a reliable, secure, self-insulated connection between NM cables without the need for a junction box to enclose it. So, I would use one of those to whack an extra length of 14/2 NM onto the too-short wire (make sure to follow the instructions on the splice kit carefully!), and then proceed as normal.


How do I get 3/8" deep and 2" wide rabbet into 3/4" plywood with a handheld router I am trying to get rabbet of sizable width 2" into 3/4" plywood. I was looking at rabbet bits and the depth (3/8") I need is not and issue but getting the width will be a challenge. The largest diameter I have seen is 1-1/4", and I know I would need to make multiple passes at like 1/4" at a time to get a clean cut as well.

How many bit would I need to accomplish this cut? What would be the sequence of steps to perform it?

Thanks in advance.

Consider getting dado blades for your table saw.  You can stack the blades, usually up to 1 1/4 inches, and do it in two passes.   The trick is to guard your fence with 1/2 scrap, and slightly undercut it with the dado before you start.

You'll need featherboards for lateral positioning, and really good down force to keep the stock from bouncing up.

If you're really concerned with the squareness of the edge, cut it a bit narrow with the dados, and finish up the final edge with the router.


Can I put a 60 amp breaker in my sub panel that also runs ona 60 amp breaker from main panel I have a sub-panel that leads from my main circuit breaker in my house. The breaker in the main box is a 60 amp leading to the sub. Is it okay to run a 60 amp break in the sub panel for an electric car charger?
I only have a couple 20 amp outlets connected to the sub panel and another 40 amp breaker for my welder. Anytime I would be charging the car, I wouldn't be using anything else except maybe one outlet for a radio.

Depends on your feeder cable
The cable from the main panel to the subpanel is feeder.
The cable from the subpanel to the EVSE is a branch circuit.
A cable can't be both a feeder and a branch circuit. That is to say, the 60A feeder can't simply be tapped and also sent to the EVSE.   It needs to go to the subpanel, and then through a 60A branch circuit breaker.
Here's the thing.  There's no such thing as a 60A feeder. Does not exist.   Either

your wiring is 55A (#6 copper NM-B or UF-B or other #6 copper rated 60C temperature) and since 55A breakers don't exist, you round up to 60A breaker.  Or
your wiring is 65A (#6Cu or #4Al of a more advanced insulation type) and you downbreakered to 60A for some reason.

The difference is that in one case, you have 55A feeder. In the other case you have 65A feeder.  You cannot provision more load on the panel than the feeder can provide which may mean 55A.
With EVSEs, you must provision 125% of the actual ampacity.  So a 48A EVSE needs 60A provisioned to it (which is not the same as a 60A breaker).   You cannot provision 60A from a 55A feeder.
Room for everything else
We can take for granted that the welder and EVSE won't be in use at the same time; #1 they need to be in the same physical space, and #2 the supply breaker will say "no way Jose".
However, we need to leave room for the two 20A circuits, and that's an imbroglio.  Code does not say "just add up all the breaker trips".
First, the NEC 2014 requirement for a 20A circuit isn't a factor, because the purpose of that requirement is to power an EVSE and you are already providing that via separate means.  So that's off the table.
(and even if you had a second EV, Tesla's Wall Connectors know how to share, and Tesla uses the same protocol as the standard J1772 connector, so it will still work with a third party EV using an adapter).
The only other guidance NEC gives us for domiciles is a square-foot calculation of 3 VA per square foot (or 1 amp per 40 square feet) in NEC 220.12. 220.14(J) tells us not to worry about it for domiciles, since it's folded into the above 220.12 calculation... it says "No additional load calculations shall be required for such outlets".  But that's intended as a catch-all for service to the entire domicile, it was never imagined for a garage subpanel.
The last guidance we have is for non-domiciles at 220.14(H) and (I)...  where 180 VA (1.5A) per receptacle is allocated.  A common duplex recep counts as 1.  A long surface conduit power strip counts as 1.  You need to do this for each of the 2 circuits, but since they are on opposite poles, you only need to count the larger.  Not a perfect solution, but Code does not cover this well.
By my math, 3 receptacles = 4.5A + the 60A provisioned to the EVSE = 64.5A.
That's OK on a 65A feeder. Though you might want to address the under-breakering of that feeder e.g. by fitting a 70A breaker.
If it's a 55A feeder, you'll need to set the DIP switches inside the EVSE to advertise itself as a 40A unit (understand how EVSE ampacity works).  That way, the EVSE derates 125% to 50A.  That + e.g. 4.5A for the receps = 54.5 amps and you're in limits.


Can carpet scraps be used to repair existing carpet? I recently had new carpet installed and the installers just left the scraps in my garage. I have several that are of somewhat appreciable sizes, the smallest being 3'x5'.

I'm weighing the pros and cons of keeping it (storage space is a premium at my house), so I'm curious if it is worth keeping for partial replacement, say if a stain occurred I could cut out a square of the existing carpet and install this.

Yes, a skilled flooring installer can patch in carpet to repair damage. It needs to be oriented with respect to the "grain" and pattern-matched.

Chances are you won't want to do that more than once or twice during the life of the carpet, since worn carpet tends to appear quite different from new carpet, diminishing the value of the repair. If you're a careful person you won't need to have repairs done often anyway, and if you're not you'll have too many stains to bother repairing any.

I'd only keep two or three of the largest scraps. Use the rest as utility rugs or recycle them.


Light bulbs won't dim Rectory we removed an old fan that had 4 a19 bulbs in it and replaced it with a new harbor breeze that had 4 cadleabra bulbs, we didn't like the light output or hue so I swapped the cadleabra bases with a19 and place utiltech daylight led bulbs in the fan, which is what we were using before.

Since we're using led, I am not worried about the wattage being prop low.

The problem is when I go to use the dimmer (a lutron led/cfl dimmer), the 4 lights barley dim now. However, if I replace 1 led with a standard incandescent, the dimmer has full range of dimming each bulb from a spotlight too where the bulb is barley glowing (like the rest of the the house).

I tested what would happen with an array of bulb combinations, and if I use 4 incandescent, the bulbs are ver ddim as if the don't have enough power. Additionally, I have adjusted the dimmer dial behind wall, and it has no effect. We also have replaced it with a new switch and that had no effect.

Dimming LED lamps is not straightforward.  LED lamps contain relatively complex control circuitry (here is an example of a "simple" DIY version) to convert mains-voltage AC into low-voltage DC.  There are various designs of LED driver circuits, which have different characteristics.

Dimmer switches also come in different designs.  The two main types are "leading edge" and "trailing edge" (for more information Google these terms or e.g. see this page).  Some more sophisticated models can be programmed to operate in either mode.  In addition, dimmer switches are rated with both maximum and minimum power handling and will not function or be damaged outside those limits.

So there are a few possible reasons for your problem:

your four LED lamps are below the minimum wattage rating of your dimmer.  This seems most likely given that increasing the load by adding one incandescent works.
your dimmer type is not compatible with your LED lamps.  Adding the incandescent lamp may alter the load characteristics enough that the dimmer switch then works (though with a risk of premature lamp or dimmer failure)
your dimmer is a programmable one and is in the wrong mode for your LED lamps (you will need the instruction manual for the dimmer switch for how to change it - e.g. mine are programmed using a complex sequence of quarter and half turns and on-and-off switches that needs safe-breaking skills to get right)


Can I use an adapter to plug a 230v air conditioner into a 120v outlet? Can I use a 240v to 120v adapter to plug my 230v window air conditioner into a normal wall outlet without having loss of power to the unit or without potentially facing any other problems?

So you have a 120V outlet on the wall, and a 230V air conditioner? If so, then probably not. Those "adapters" (assuming the kind used for travel) are intended to power SMALL appliances, like shavers, cell phone chargers, MAYBE a hair dryer. An Air Conditioner likely requires WAY more power than those devices are good for. That's why it is designed for 230V; it is too much power for a standard 15A 120V outlet.

But you can check to make sure. Look on the nameplate of the Air Conditioner for the wattage. A standard 120V 15A outlet is good for 1800W maximum, assuming a "non-continuous" load and NOTHING else on the same circuit. But worse than that is that most of the travel type power adapters are rated for 1300-1400W MAXIMUM. If your A/C unit draws more than that, then it can't work without risking a fire.


New basement cracks found on concrete floor and poured walls after changing and adding one dehumidifier My home is 14 years old. I have been using a 40 pint dehumidifier at 50% until this spring.  It was only after discovering mild amount of mold under my fiberglass insulation that I felt I needed to improve upon what I had.

My basement is almost 3000 sq. ft. I had purchased 2 70pt. dehumidifiers, placing them on opposite areas of the basement. (as I found the humidity was different in one area than the other).

The humidity now is between 40 - 45% where it was at 67% with first utilizing the new humidifiers.

I have noticed cracks that were not present in my walls and floors before, beginning at a 55% humidity level in the basement.  I have a neighbor who uses 2 70 pt. units in a smaller basement at a lower humidity level with no complaints, so I was surprised by this change.

It has been 4 months later and the cracks have stabilized.

Any thoughts on why this would occur?

Thank you.

I have been following up on the cracks, they have stabilized.  I had a basement structural engineer review them along with the integrity of the walls and floor, no structural problems.  I used a joint/crack concrete sealant laying down a backer rod first which has remained unchanged.

May have pulled moisture too quickly with changing to 2 more efficient dehumidifiers as no cracks were noticed prior to this change.

Using concrete sealant to decrease likelihood of additional drying/crackingof concrete.


Tiling on slab or backer board I have recently replaced the carpet in one room.  I intentionally left part of the room uncarpeted that is in front of small vanity.  I plan to tile it.  Off to the side of the section is a bathroom with a door that is tiled.  The bathroom tile is raised, I'm thinking that they previous owners tiled on top of tile.  So, when I put down the new tile, I need to try to match the height.

So, I have a few questions.

Should I put down backer board onto the slab?  How do I secure it to the slab?  Maybe some sort of glue?
How should I handle the seam between the carpet and tile?  Remember, the carpet is already down.

I hate to tell you that I know from calling the manufacturers of both hardiebacker and durock that they do no support concrete installations.  Both indicated that it would probably work fine but they simply haven't tested it.

I have personally used it in a very small area that I needed to raise - very small.  You want to treat it like tile (thinset with large trowel) then hit each sheet with 4+ tapcon screws (which are hard to get just right).  This 2'by4' area took me way too long and I am not sure how I could have made it faster.  It has held up in a rental for 6-7 years now with no issues.

I would think before doing this.  Also I would choose durock since it is a little more flexible than hardie (I prefer hardie for everything except floors).

Given you are raising this area with the carpet, there is simply no logical transition.  Normally you would just buy a metal tile transition "L" and lay the flat side towards carpet... This will leave you too high.  The only thing that I can think of - and maybe others have ideas) is to basically raise the carpet area towards the tile, basically building a mini ramp.  Roofing shingles and plywood will get that job done.  Let's be clear, building a ramp so your carpet meets your tile OK is pretty ghetto.  It might turn out OK, but you will know.

After all of these workarounds to get everything lined up, that shouldn't be I would have to ask the question - wouldn't you be better off demoing the tile in the bathroom and laying the tile on the slab?  Demoing tile isn't that hard and laying tile on a slab is the simplest install.  Depending on size of bathroom this may be the least time consuming thing.  I know you have a bit more in material cost but this is a permanent solution and the right way.

The crew I flip houses with have a simple motto - we do hard stuff, we do some stuff a bit ghetto, but we never make the ghetto stuff hard.


Can I use 2 black THHN wires for a 240v line? I'm going to be wiring a 50A 240V circuit to a shed through an MF conduit. There will be about 3 feet of conduit connecting to a subpanel and it will remain above ground. I know the neutral wire must be white or grey and the ground _must be green, yellow-green or bare. Can I use 2 black conductors for the hot wires or must they be black and red?

This is for a location in the United States.

The answer is yes you can run your 2 hots the same color and they can be any color except white, gray, or green. If your circuit is only 220. (240 in modern terms) you will also need a ground, the ground can be metallic conduit or if using pvc conduit a green is normally used. If you want to run anything other than 240v you will also need a neutral to set up a breaker panel. If this is a detached shed a ground rod will also be needed. With more info we can help you size the wires & conduit based on the load and distance but more info will be needed to do that but Yes you can use 2 black insulated conductors.


Will wrapping the stove pipes with copper pipes increase wood stove efficiency? I've heard that wrapping my wood stove's chimney - the parts inside the house that go from the stove the the actual chimney - with copper pipes will increase the amount of heat generated.

Has anyone ever tried this?  What diameter copper would work best for a typical 7" stove pipe?  And how long should the copper be, given a 3' length of stove pipe?

In a woodstove, where the fire doesn't get very hot, you get a lot of unburnt gases. These are compounds that could burn but only at a higher temperature. Instead, they evaporate. As they travel up the chimney, the cool and condense. Over time it builds up. If you then burn a really hot fire, they can finally ignite, and your chimney burns. This can happen when you use a lot of pitchy softwood for a long time (Douglas Fir, for example) and then burn some really dry hardwood (e.g., maple).

If you do something clever to extract more heat from the chimney, you will get more condensed goop in your chimney, so be sure to clean it regularly.

Another way to deal with this problem is to always make a really hot fire. Then almost everything will burn, leaving very little goop in the chimney, and very little ash. That's going to be too much heat for your house, so you have to surround your fire with an enormous thermal mass. That will moderate the temperature. This is the principle behind a "Russian stove", among other names.


How thoroughly should HVAC evaporator be sealed? I noticed that cold air was rushing out of the seam near my AC evaporator, so I added foil tape around the seam (see photo). Is that appropriate, or does that minor leakage serve a purpose? The rest of the unit's seams are taped, so I don't know if this was an oversight or intentional.

I usually pack the holes with a sealing clay we call monkey sh!t. Sorry I don’t know the proper name, if the air handler is inside the home some leakage is not as big of an issue. Having the air handler properly sealed will increase the system efficiency, on older homes that space was not conditioned because it all went up the vents or with gas appliances that was the case.