Wall plate and subfloor repair in bathroom Replacing tile floor in small (6x5) bathroom with tub, on 2nd story of a condo. After pulling tile, noticed some water damage in corner by tub, on the subfloor and the floor plate in the wall (looks like a tile was loose, and kids getting water out of the bath leaked into subfloor). Took out the rot, appears the 2x6 floor plate only rotted less than a 1/3 way back, and just bottom side, and length wise less than a foot. First question is, do I need to have this replaced? The above joists are perpendicular to the wall, so it may be load bearing (but it’s a small length of wall compared to the two long load bearing walls). I’ve seen some wood epoxy products for structural fixes (e.g. conserv epoxy, Abatron epoxy, PC Woody), would these be worth it, or is it fine as is?
EDIT: Learning a little more, and looking in the attic (this bathroom directly below attic level), the roof is a manufactured truss assembly. This (may) suggest the internal walls aren't load bearing. Which could mean it wouldn't be too bad to remove a portion of the 2x6 floor plate to replace.
Second question, I’ve looked into replacing subfloors, adding 2x6 blocks to support the replacement subfloor piece. I usually seen these done with floors with joists, this has floor trusses, anythjng different I should do?Also, there is definitely part of the subfloor under the floor plate that should be replaced. What is the best way to do this?

Firstly, protect your bathtub. Scratches don't heal, and repairs aren't easy or cheap. Tape cardboard or heavy paper over the face and top surfaces, then lay blankets or towels over that.
Secondly, the wall plate doesn't necessarily need replacement. After your floor repair is complete, replace that short block with a fresh one. That'll provide adequate backing for drywall. There are no structural concerns with such a small area of damage.
Regarding the floor repair, I can't be too specific until we see what's under there, but the process looks like this:

Cut out the subfloor with whatever tools you have on hand. A circular saw set to depth, a reciprocating saw, and a sharp chisel can all be effective. Be careful not to damage the joists or any utility hardware below. Cuts should go no deeper than about 1/8" into the framing. Use a square to make right angles so that your patches are rectangular. This makes fitting a new piece easier.
Where your patch edges don't land on joists, add two-by blocking. This can be one of two things: Blocks sistered onto or spanning between joists; blocks floated under the edge of the remaining subfloor. They should be securely screwed to other framing where possible.
Place the subfloor patch, screwing it to all available backing. All edges should be supported.

At all points of contact, use 2-1/2" or 3" gold construction screws (not drywall screws, which are brittle), and construction adhesive, which bolsters connections and eliminates most noise. Don't rely on just adhesive for any connection, though.


What should I do after topping up the oil in a lawn mower with petrol by mistake I am house-sitting for my parents and I tried to cut the grass. In summary, I accidentally topped up the oil (thinking it was petrol, and running low) with a load of petrol. It took 10 mins of trying to start the engine to realise my stupid, stupid mistake. The lawn mower is a Mountfield SP536.

Is this even fixable, and if so, how do I do that?

Drain the oil.
Refill with new clean oil.

Check the manufacturer's documentation for oil change procedure, and type of oil to add.

Looks like the drain plug on your mower is just below the oil filler tube.

To change the oil:

Remove the spark plug cap.
Tip the mower so that the oil can drain without flowing across the deck (Make sure the mower is secure before proceeding).
Put an oil pan under the drain (use a funnel if necessary).
Remove the drain plug (be careful not to drop it in the oil pan).
Allow oil to drain.
Replace drain plug.
Set mower flat.
Fill with recommended oil to fill line indicated on dip stick.
Wipe up any spilled oil.
Replace spark plug cap.

TIPS:

To prevent accidental starts, always remove the spark plug cap before working on a lawn mower.
If the drain plug has a gasket washer on it, moisten the gasket with a bit of new motor oil before installing the plug.


Installing new dishwasher with existing power cord I just bought a new KitchenAid dishwasher and was wondering if I could use the existing power cord (not hardwire) from my old dishwasher (about 14 years old). It has a ground, white and black wire to match with new dishwasher wires.

Logically, I don't see why not, but after installing the new dishwasher the first time, the pump gave out after a week and a smelled a strong electrical wire. My wife is blaming the cord but I think it's a coincidence is all.

Should I be concerned or is there any way to check definitively? I don't want to have to send another back.

Usually you can use a cord/plug with a dishwasher.

What was the cord that you used from originally?  Some people have used cords that have been cut off of old appliances and electronics, which may not be up to the task.  For example, if you cut the cord of a kettle (resistive wire) or a DVD player (low current) you may end up with problems.

You can buy kits:
https://www.whirlpool.com/-[4317824]-1001038/4317824/

Or you can reuse a beefy 3-prong cord from another appliance.  The only way I can think that the cord might cause the pump to fail is if it was resistance wire, or limiting the current.  A big percentage of appliance failures are in the first 30 days, so the pump failing and the cord are probably unrelated.


Switch for two different supplies Would it be safe to use a three way switch to run two different hots to one outlet. Our RV is 30 amp, with two A/C’s. Both running they pull 24 amps, so one has to be shut off for the microwave. I can get a separate 20 amp supply most times we stop. The switch is rated 20 amps. Is there another way?

The problem is ordinary switches only switch hot, but with a second source you need to switch neutral to go to that source as well.

One possible fix is to wire up a separate inlet outside wired to one receptacle inside and move the microwave plug between the "main" receptacle and this new dedicated secondary supply when needed.


Building a Circular Platform using 12" wide boards I need to make a 7.5' circle 12 inches wide (OD 7.5', ID 6.5').
 Since there is no lumber sold in 8'x8' pieces, and I don't have room to set up 2 4x8s side by side, I thought another approach might be to buy 12" wide boards and cut them in trapezoidal shapes of a certain length, and join them side to side to form a Dodecagon that is 12" wide.

I'm unsure of what angle to use for the sides of each of the 12 pieces, as well as how long each one should be on the long side and the short side.

Can anyone help?

Here is a diagram of what you need. Cut each piece exactly the same with a 75 degree angle on the ends. If they are all the same it will go together alright even if you do not make the outside length of each piece be 23.2937.

If you use planed 1x12 pine boards they will be more like 11.25 inches wide.

Dimensions are in inches.


What happens if I use the counterclockwise setting on my power drill to drill a hole? I've learned that, "Almost all drilling bits have to be rotated clockwise to achieve drilling." - Source

What is wrong, exactly, with using the "L" setting (counterclockwise setting) on my cordless power drill to drill a hole (using a standard drill bit)?

Won't the hole still be created at the end of the day, regardless of the direction? I don't understand the "real-world" difference. Are you able to visually tell the difference between the two holes (the hole drilled on the clockwise setting vs. the hole drilled on the counterclockwise setting)?

Conventional drill bits are designed to cut in only one direction, unless otherwise noted. I think one has to make special effort to find a left-cutting bit, although some screw extractors with an integrated cutter will be left-cutting.

Because a drill bit cuts, one wants the cutting edge to engage the work as it rotates. If used in the reverse direction, the cutting edge will drag and become dull in short order.

Along with the dulling, great heat will be generated from the friction. I have read on this forum of people who have used reverse direction on a conventional drill bit to effectively melt through plastic. Drilling plastic requires special bits or special technique to prevent cracking the plastic.


What is the procedure for replacing a new-build vinyl window with drywall returns? I want to replace a round vinyl window that is the original in our 90's house. Want to replace with like size and shape. What are the steps to work out the R/O for this window, given I can't access it from the outside?  Do I just measure the diameter of the opening and add 1"?

The window is about 10' off the floor on the inside and about 40' above grade on the exterior. How do I get the old one out?  Do I have to pry out the trim on the exterior?  Or do I cut at it from the inside?  Thanks in advance.

Its installed by a nailing flange on the outside, it is covered by the window trim. Remove that and you will see the nails holding it in. The window jamb dimension is the outer diameter of the window where it meets the exterior trim, the RO is a 1/2" to 1" bigger than that.

There is a small chance it is held in by nailing tabs, attached to the round jamb and extend into the interior side of the RO. Set with nails in the RO to hold it in place, I seriously doubt this method is used.


What do I need to do to add stools to my vinyl windows? I own a "cookie cutter" house built in 2006, and all of the windows are the thin vinyl kind with no trim at all, but I like the look of having a window stool. Is there a standard practice for adding stools to this type of window? Do I need to remove the drywall on the bottom and attach the stool to the frame, or can I just place it on top of the drywall?

Removing the sheetrock will lower the finished stool height a bit which will help maintain a more even reveal on the window, and  make it look less like the stool was added on.  Cut around the edges first with a utility knife to minimize damage to the surrounding jambs & wall below and then just pry it up.

If you really want to keep the same reveal as the old sheetrock, you could build up your new stool out of 1/2" thick stock (assuming the sheetrock was 1/2").  Make one piece that is the size and shape of the entire stool, then thicken it where it projects out from the wall by laminating another 1/2" thick piece underneath.


How can I repair a tiny puncture in leather? I rolled the back of my leather chair into the corner of a table and ended up with a tiny puncture maybe a millimetre or two across. Normally, damage like this wouldn't bother me but my chair is regularly walked past and I'm worried that something will snag in the leather and result in a larger tear.

See the damage below:

Does anyone have any tips for repairing tiny punctures like this? My priority is preventing further damage but preferably I'd like it to look as inconspicuous as possible.

All the advice that I have already seen online seems to involve inserting a patch into the tear and glueing the two edges down on to the patch. But this damage is too small for me to insert anything in to without making it larger first.

Use a toothpick to push a small square or circle of backer fabric through the hole to the back of the leather. Choose something thin but strong and that has a little give - silk is often used but not everyone has a tiny bit of silk in their sewing basket. This gives some support for step 2.
Use same toothpick to pick up a small dab of flexible, clear fabric glue through the hole to the backer fabric behind.
The use a spoon to push the leather onto the fabric backer and rub it down to ensure the glue is well and good squished behind and around the hole, and that there are no edges to the tear that might catch again. If you can push the leather together you can make the hole practically invisible. No glue should be visible from the outside except the tiniest amount inside the seam itself.


How to protect a new wood floor from renovation traffic I have had hardwood flooring installed in my home, with further renovation (kitchen) upcoming. The kitchen floor is tile which I'm not worried about, but to get to and from the kitchen means travelling over the hardwood (urethane finish). The installers used cardboard from the shipping boxes to protect the floor as they were working over it. To keep the cardboard from sliding around, it was taped down with painter's tape. It only took them a few days to complete the work, after which I had no trouble removing the tape. The kitchen work is another matter; there will be activity spread over a few weeks.

I'm thinking of using the same technique as the flooring installers - lay down cardboard and secure with painter's tape, but I've read that you can only rely on 7-14 day release. Is this true? Will I have problems removing the tape from the flooring if left in place for 3-4 weeks? Will it damage, discolor or cloud the finish if left that long?

1/8" (or 1/4" if it's cheaper) hardboard (Masonite is a brand name you might or might not know better than the generic term) which can be laid in place and taped together at the seams without taping to the floor.


Wiremold Ceiling Fan Box not compatible with Harbor Breeze mounting bracket. How to fix? I am surface mounting a Harbor Breeze ceiling fan directly to a wooden beam using a Wiremold Metal Ceiling Fan junction box.  The wiremold box has two #10 screws which go from the back of the mounting plate, and extend through holes in the junction box cover that the ceiling fan mounting bracket is supposed to mount to.

Problem is -- (for this particular bracket?) the mounting bracket holes do not line up with the screws coming out of the wiremold box in ANY orientation.  This is very frustrating.  What are some quick and dirty methods to solve this (maybe drilling new holes in the bracket?  And -- what is a proper way to address this without picking a new fan to match the wiremold layout.  Are their bracket adapters or other hardware out there that I can pick up from the local home stores to plug into the equation?

The Wiremold Solid Base Fan Box Fitting (part number V5783AF) is specifically designed for fans that have a fan bracket with holes on a 3 3/16"(81mm) spacing. If your fan bracket does not have this spacing then you will not be able to directly mount up the fan without doing some type of adaptation of modifications.  From looking at the Wiremold installation instructions it would appear that would not want to modify the Wiremold unit itself.

As you can see in the following diagram from the installation instructions that some fan mounting brackets have long slotted holes that accommodate a range of stud spacings.

This picture from a typical Harbor Breeze fan installation guide shows how the fan hanger bracket normally mounts to the electrical box using screws into the tabs in the electrical box. In the case with the Wiremold box the studs from the Wiremold back plate have to go through the slots in the fan bracket and then nuts are used to secure the fan bracket instead.

So if the slots in the Harbor Breeze fan bracket that you have do not have the 3 3/16" (81mm) spacing you will have to get another solution. Since it appears that you are committed to the Wiremold products for the electrical delivery to the fan site you will have to search for a fan that has a bracket that uses the correct spacing.

Note that it is not recommended to try to modify the parts shown here in an attempt to kludge together a solution. The safety of hanging the fan does require using the hardware as designed.


Which cylinder door lock shield design is most secure? I'm planning to place a shield on my front door and would like to know which of the 3 shield designs is the most secure option and why.

Basic design characteristics:

Top Left:

the outside part of the cylinder is covered with a black steel covering

Bottom:

the outside part of the cylinder is covered with a black steel covering
it has another fastening screw on the top part

Top Right:

the cylinder is completely "invisible" (covered) from the outside

Effectively there should be no difference.  They only vary for aesthetic purposes.  Someone trying to access the door via cutting the cylinder would have to work very hard indeed regardless of which model you pick.

What's much more important is that you ensure that the rest of the door is as secure as the lock mechanism itself.


Building a retaining wall with dense concrete blocks, best way to lay each course? I've seen a few walls that use the top method versus the more common stretcher/running bond, are there any benefits to doing it the first way?

use the first way only if you like the way it looks, stretcher bond is stronger.


Should I insulate a metal pipe roof vent to stop condensation? I recently bought a home which was a renovation. I had a water leak from the ceiling in an upstairs room. Upon opening up the drywall, I noticed there was what appears to be a vent of some sort that is sealed at the top.

I noticed a new vent over the bathroom made of PVC. I see condensation on the inside of the rubber cap that seals the old black metal vent. Should I insulate the old pipe and wrap in plastic to stop any leaking, condensation or otherwise? Or should I remove the vent entirely?

If I understand correctly, you're saying that there is moisture getting past the seal on the old (metal) pipe's flashing, but not past the seal on the new PVC pipe. This is probably due to a failing seal, and not condensation. If the old pipe is abandoned, I'd do one of two things:

Go into your attic and cut it off below the roof line. Repair the roof sheathing and roofing.
Replace the flashing from above.

It's possible that you're actually seeing condensation if the attic has very poor ventilation and there's a source of moisture somewhere, such as a roof leak. In that case, fixing the roof leak should eliminate condensation.


How important are stainless steel fasteners for redwood? I'm doing an earthquake retrofit on my house. I've read that you should use stainless steel instead of hot-dipped galvanized for any fasteners in redwood (and pressure treated lumber, too). How important is this? It's a pain to source the stainless steel fasteners... Are they going to be less structurally sound? I obviously don't care about anything cosmetic under the house. The redwood is decades old at this point.

Primary reason for using stainless fasteners are:

they are corrosion resistant
the have good strength/structural integrity
they are reasonably inexpensive

Secondary reasons:

they are aesthetically appealing compared to others
they are ROHS compliant

Anyway, the most important thing to note is that galvanized steel is significantly weaker than stainless steel. The corrosion protection is also less durable than stainless.


How do I get even water pressure from a bathtub mixer faucet? I just bought my house and noticed there is a problem in the bathroom tub faucet and that is: the valve starts from the cold toward hot and as it goes toward the hot the water pressure increases and by the way the way it is made I do not have any access behind the wall to check how it is made. Is there any way I can fix this and have control over both water temperature's pressure?

Delta makes a line of shower valves (Monitor 17 series) that has separate Temperature and Volume controls in a single hole package.  It approximates a thermostatic valve, which is a much more expensive valve.

The little arm at 2 o'clock is the temperature setting, and the larger one at 4 o'clock is the volume.

It would be necessary to replace both the valve body and the valve trim to use this solution.


How do I remove a chimney? I've got a chimney in my 50's-era house that doesn't do anything. It's a regular brick and mortar chimney but it used to be used to vent the old oil heater (it's been converted to natural gas since). The chimney isn't used any more. I don't believe it's structural. Let's assume it's not but I'll get a second opinion on that before I do anything.

I've looked online and it seems that you just need to get an air hammer, chisel out the mortar and remove the chimney brick by brick. Then patch up the roof and the floor. The chimney sits on its own foundation in the crawlspace, so I'd have to frame and cover the floor as well as the ceiling. The chimney is in the middle of the house and is not attached to an outside wall.

Is that about right? Anything else to it? I understand it makes a massive mess in the house. I'd probably send my family to live with my sister across town for a few days.

I know I'd need a respirator, good gloves and goggles.

Any other recommendations?

You didn't mention how tall the chimney is.  2 story house or single. Is there or was there ever a displacement for a fireplace, one flue or two?  Lined or bare brick interior?

In general, the procedure is brick by brick. A small mini jack/impact  hammer will speed up the process, but it can be done with a hammer and cold chisel. Most chimneys are independently supported and not structural to walls or the roof. there may be ties to framing members that you will have to cut or remove as you go through the roof or floor. You definitely want to use basic safety equipment like a dust mask, gloves and good eye protection. You can cut down on the dust and debris spreading in the house by hanging plastic from the ceilings around the work area. Use some painter's tape to hang lightweight plastic from the ceiling creating an enclosed area around your work area.

One cool trick on chimneys with a large flue opening and a clean out on the bottom is to drop the bricks one at a time to the bottom and have a helper remove them and stack them at the bottom. This is a bit neater and saves bringing bricks through the house.


What would cause a well pump to suddenly be louder when operating? We currently have an unknown (in terms of GPM) 3/4HP Franklin well pump, at an unknown depth (though our neighbor's well is at roughly 100').  Since we moved in, when the well pump is running, there has been a low, barely audible humming that can heard throughout the house.  About a year ago, our (ancient) pressure tank developed a leak, and so I replaced it with a larger, bladder style tank.  It takes a few minutes to fill, and quite a lot of water use to go below the switches 40psi for the well pump to kick in.

Yesterday, the well pump started making a louder, more high pitched hum.  It can be heard clearly outside at the well head.  The pump is performing the same as it was before (fully pressurizes the tank in about the same amount of time), just with this louder operating sound.

Any thoughts on what could be causing this or how to troubleshoot it before a very expensive well service call?

Turns out the pump was shot. 37 year old pump.. And the reason it died? Well screen was all plugged up, and the pump was pumping dry. Lots of $$ later, and I have a new well pump, and a new well screen. Was definitely out of the DIY range.


Is this outside service panel a wet location? What cable type to use? Situation: outside service panel with a meter and plenty of breaker spaces, mounted on siding surface. The panel does not appear to be moisture-tight, there are no gaskets on the covers and entry for the existing subpanel feeder is from rear via a standard SER cable coupling (through the siding and back KO).

Is this considered a "wet" location by the code? (I think it should).
What cable type should I use to connect a new subpanel that will be directly behind it, connected via a nipple (separated only by the siding thickness, say 3/4")? THHN or THNW (or other wet-location certified equivalent)?
If I wanted to add an outlet with a weather-proof in-use cover and box - what cable can I use for it? (probably "wet" only).

NEMA 3R (outdoor) does not normally have gaskets, it just has a drip pattern that channels water away from live components, and wire is required that is wet location rated. The labeling on the reverse of the cover of the cabinet should indicate the NEMA rating.
The term "Cable" normally describes a multiconductor assembly, which isn't really appropriate for a new wet location in-use receptacle. There are limitations included in the installation documents that tell you where penetrations are allowed in the cabinet that keep the 3R rating. Probably easiest to use a short piece of 1/2" PVC to a weathertight junction box and use THWN conductors. The W is wet location. All THHN conductors I have ever seen are dual rated THHN/THWN, but keep your eyes open, there might be an exception.


How do I cover large gaps of floor from wall with baseboard? I just installed laminate floors in my basement.

One wall (drywall) is not perfectly straight, leaving an area of the floor with a space as big as 1 3/4 inches from the wall.

I don't like the idea of rip cutting a laminate floor piece to a thin and long triangle shape to fill the gap.

What's an easy way of covering the gap?

The easy way to cover the gap is to use your same flooring material. In this case the laminate flooring would be cut in a strip to fit the gap. Measure the gap width every 16 or 24 inches and transfer that to a flooring piece minus the normal wall gap clearance. Then cut the strip along a line through the measurements points and fit the piece in place.

Any kind of other strange scheme you come up with to avoid making the long strip is going to look terrible.


Why is there no hot water from sink tap unless shower or bath has been run? We have just had a new boiler and new bathroom fitted.

Shower and bath work fine - takes a minute or so for water to heat up, its a combi boiler and the boiler is on another floor to bathroom. However the sink tap in bathroom will not get hot unless either a shower or bath has been run.

My guess was that the sink tap does not create enough pressure to really get the boiler going, and the pipes need warming up.

To clarify the water from sink gets luke warm, at best, with no shower/bath. While if sink tap is run shortly after shower/bath the water is perfectly hot (~60c as expected)

Any tips ?

I think you are right.  There is a minimum flow rate required before the boiler will actually kick on.  I have exactly the same thing with my tankless hot water heater.

Aside from getting a separate "point of use" hot water heater for just the sink, The only way I'm aware of to get around it is to turn the water all the way over to hot and on full blast.  That usually gets enough flow going to start up the water heater.  Once hot water starts coming out, you can adjust the temp a bit (at which point the water heater will probably shut off, and all you have is the hot water left in the pipes).


How to weather protect plywood fence? My handyman guy used the wrong lumber to make this fence gate. It just regular plywood used for subfloor:

It's too late now to take it down. But it looks OK so I want to see if there is a way to weather protect it.

Eventually it will be painted (white color now is Kilz prime). What product should I apply to seal it from rotten?

Painting may be your best friend here, but I hate to be the bearer of bad news. Where the purlins meet the OSB will never be painted unless they are removed, then after they are painted, the holes from the nails holding the purlins in place may be the weak spot.


Can baseboard trim be used for window and door casing? Why baseboard trims can't be also used as door moldings in rooms? For example, floor molding of size 1/2" x 3-1/4" would perfectly fit as door molding. Are there special requirements for door casings that don't allow use the floor moldings?

Thanks.

There's no reason it can't, and my own home is an example, having stained oak base trim around all openings as well as against the floor. I can't say I like it much, and when I update the trim I'll do away with the style, but it's not terrible.

However, base trim is usually thinner than casing. This prevents "flush joints" from occurring where base and casing meet. In carpentry, flush joints are to be avoided because it's difficult to achieve perfect alignment in the field. By using a thicker casing, the problem is eliminated.

Casing usually has more detail to it, making it more visually interesting. By having different styles for base and casing there's a visual separation. It may look odd to see a continuous run of trim along the wall and over a door unless an ultra-modern style is desired.

Base trim is also typically taller than casing. If the same molding is used on windows it can result in a top-heavy appearance. This is a matter of personal taste, of course.


There's a difference between hot/neutral AC lines in a plug, but does it matter? Saw the good answer to this question:
Is there a difference between the two conductors in 120VAC wiring?

But I'm wondering as a followup, since the two primary prongs in an AC mains plug are different, why (in many plug configurations) are you allowed to insert the plug in either direction? Is there ever a case where the appliance cares which line is "hot" and which is "neutral"? Is there ever a case where it's important enough not to screw up?

In switched appliances, the appliance's on/off switch needs to be wired to the hot side of the connection.  Otherwise, you'd have current running through the device when it's powered off, just looking for an opportunity to cause a short.  For non-switched devices, I don't believe it makes a difference.


Lamp base out of wood, containing wires. Is there a safe way? I want to build a lamp socket base out of wood. In general I'd have a total of three lamps sockets hanging from it, which I'd feed through drill holes and would wire together in a hollowed out part of the wood.

 _________________
|_________________|  <- wooden board/slab
   |     |     |
   |     |     |
   O     O     O  <-lamp sockets

This means electrics and flammable material together.Naturally, this brings up some concerns as I don't want to burn down my house.
Is this in general a bad idea, or how can I achieve this in a safe way?

Additional info
View from top on hollowed out fixture with cable canal:

    cable feeds from bulbs
        ↓      ↓       ↓
     ____________________
    |                    |
    |   O------O------O  |
    |____________________|
               ↑
         wiring all together

I know you've seen LED replacement "bulbs" that screw in, and you know those fail.  What is failing isn't the LED.  It's the conversion power supply which converts 230V to 3V for the LEDs, which tend to be built very cheaply. You could fix them, but it's not worth it.  Don't let that scare you away from LED tech.  The actual LED emitters proper have an extremely  long service life.  They will not burn out, probably in our lifetimes.

So anytime you're homebrewing a lamp, the right answer is to use LEDs because LEDs use low-voltage and run cool.  There's a quasi-standard for projects like yours, to use 12 volts DC -- the LEDs won't run directly on that, but there are lots of ways to buy 12 volt LED modules that simply contain three LEDs and a resistor.  The resistor will last as long as the LEDs.

To power that, you use a common, commercial off the shelf 230V-12V "wall wart" type power supply, which is listed by the relevant safety agencies - BSI, TUV, UL, whoever you use.  (CE is pretty worthless when dealing with China). That means you are never touching mains voltage.   An electrical short could still cause a fire, but 99% of such fire-starters are arcing faults across open connections, and 12V doesn't really like to arc. All the "failable" electronics are in the wall-wart, all the rest is wires, LEDs and resistors.  The wall-wart will be what fails, just swap it.


How could one create a man sized cylinder be created with woodworking? The goal is to create a cylinder shaped, ribbed shell with wood, and what Evers necessary to hold it together. Something like the following image:

The idea is that the internal area of the circles is empty space. each ring would be supported with with horizontal beams. But how would the circles be fabricated out of wood? Any tools, materials, methodologies, plausible suggestions etc would be the goal of answering this question.

If you want near perfect circles, rig a router with a trammel beam rotating around a fixed point. You'll get repeatable sizes with a good edge.


What is it? Red and waxy debris from drilling studs I was drilling two studs in order to install a wall-mounted shelf, and one of the studs smelled funny when I started drilling.

It smelled kind of sweet and the dust that came out is sort of red, plastic-looing and waxy.

It kind of smells like cedar. I live in Austin, Texas, so could it be cedar studs?

Also, it's near the stairs, could I have hit a beam?

It is the resin from the coniferous tree the wood was milled from. Resin, gum, amber, is in every softwood tree. It is produced by the living tree when it becomes damaged, from say boring beetles.   The pungent smell you detected while drilling was the warmed drill bit burning a pocket of tree resin. A fairly aromatic scent it is. Resin can have different consistencies depending on ambient temperature and it's age. Some resin is dried and crumbly (almost crystalline). While other times it is viscous and sticky.


Wall in middle of tile floor: grout lines don't match A contractor is installing tile in the first floor of my house. The floor plan is open, with the living room and kitchen separated by a wall that spans a portion of the floor. The installer laid tile in courses on the 'north' end of the wall, then continued to lay going 'south,' where the wall divided the area into two rooms. At the 'south' end of the wall, the grout lines don't line up. (See diagram.)  Is this acceptable, or should I tell my installer to do it over?

This is indicative of a poor initial layout, perhaps due to inexperience. An experienced tile setter takes note of the areas where defects (like grout lines that can't line up, small or thin cuts, discolored tiles, etc.) would be most visible and makes sure things are perfect in those places, hiding the inevitable problems elsewhere.

If the tile had been properly laid out before setting it, the lines would be perfect across the open areas. Small differences in tile spacing are normal but are normally hidden by "pinching" or "spreading" the grout lines in places where it won't be noticed.

  should I tell my installer to do it over?

I would, or I would insist on a significant discount due to lame installation then hide it with an area rug or something...

This is an example of why you should hire reputable contractors who are not shy of providing references, or hiring out of the local guild. You get what you pay for sometimes...


how to replace grommets(snaps) on a coat Zipper broke on an expensive coat. To replace they have to take off the snaps that go over the zipper and state they can't put back on.  This would leave holes in coat. Does anyone know of any way to replace these?

Probably not a home improvement but I have repaired several snap covers on my BBQ with a kit like this very easy to use only 10$ or so. You will have spares for around the house.


Can I merge two drains with traps into one pipe? Can I put a Y fitting into the wall to accept two p-trap drain assemblies?  I need one for the Reverse Osmosis system and the other for the double sink with disposal.

Yes, in most every home, multiple P traps eventually go into a single drain. The important considerations are that there is proper slope, there's a vent within a certain distance of the drain (either wet or dry), and that the drains are properly sized. What you can't have is one P trap in line with another (creating an air locked section), but two P traps that connect to a Y and enter the wall should be perfectly fine.


How to stop a leak of water through a concrete floor I live in an apartment building. Each house has a bathroom with a concrete floor covered in tiles. In the corner of the floor is a drain with its pipe going all the way through. However, I have noticed water leaking into my roof space from the upstairs neighbor's bathroom. The leak seems to be through the join between the drain pipe and the concrete.

What is the best way to seal this floor so that the water will stop leaking through?

Edit: Added a view of the pipe from above as people are clearly miss understanding the situation.

The real solution is to prevent water from escaping the pipe by finding and fixing the initial leakage. This will most likely include getting to the upstairs neighbor and kindly asking him to assist with this problem and if he doesn't want to assist bring that to the building management, authorities and the court.

It will be very problematic to seal the ceiling from your apartment. Concrete is not a sealant material - it will absorb and conduct water so water will eventually find its way to your apartment. So this would be just a waster of time.


Can I mount a 3 gang box vertically? I need to fit 3 switches into a narrow space. Is there any rule against mounting a 3 gang box so that it is taller than it is wide? I will be using two single pole switches and one three way switch.

This is absolutely fine. There is no rule or code prohibiting it that I know of.


New 20amp circuit via old conduit or not? I plan on creating a new circuit and running 12/2 to my microwave for an dedicated circuit. The current outlet for the microwave is old wiring running through conduit. The wiring comes in through a junction box labeled A, then runs about 3 feet over before dropping down the wall labeled B, and that runs into the microwave outlet box. It looks like that box A is already pretty crowded so it doesn't seem like the best option to run the new microwave circuit wire through the conduit via box A.

I would think the easiest solution would be just to put in a second outlet box and then run the new wire directly to it? I would have two outlets in the cabinet above the microwave, one dedicated to the microwave. Also, how can I tell what the capacity is of the old light/junction box that is running conduit? Maybe the box isn't overly crowded.

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Here's the good news. You have figured out two methods of running your new circuit and both of them work. As a DIY'er probably the best method for you to take would be to run the 12/2 to a new box.

As an electrician I would look at trying to run the conductors in the conduit. The magic number is 40% fill for the conduit and boxes. So you would need to know the number and type of insulation of each existing conductor and the size and insulation of the new circuit. Once you have that information you would need to go to the Table section of the NEC and run the calculations to see if everything would work.  Also you would have to determine how you were going to make the transition from the existing circuitry and feed over to the new receptacle. This seems to me to be a little overwhelming to someone with limited experience.

So I would suggest you use the old KISS (keep it simple stupid) method and just run a new circuit. The only reason I would think about using the conduit was if it became really difficult to run the NM.

Hope this helps and good luck.


How to make paint stick to a stud screw? Around my house, I have a places on my walls where the paint has fallen off of stud screws. They are not popped screws. Rather, they are still depressed into the wall, so I don't know how why this happening. This time around, how should I prepare the wall so that my paint sticks onto the screw for a longer time? I have access to both spackle and joint compound, but I don't know which one to use. I use Behr Premium Ultra paint, which is self-priming.

These types of screws have been used for decades with no rust issue created by the drywall mud. I don't mean to step on any toes, my apologies, but there has never been an issue with mud popping off screw heads in my experience from rust. There is no sign of rust on the screw head, nor rust "bleed" on the drywall. Although I have seen it happen in extreme cases, BUT the mud was still intact.

The issue that I think is going on is there movement of the drywall off the stud allowing the screw to push the mud off the screw head. Check this by pushing on the face of the drywall to see if the drywall screw pops out a little when pushing on the drywall. If so it will require a few more screws to keep it from happening again. The added screws will need to be placed 2" away from the screw above and below the one that is there now. Push on the drywall to get the drywall to meet the stud before you add the extra screws. Two screws may be enough, depending how far the space is between the drywall and stud. Careful when adding screws, the screws need to stop JUST BELOW the surface, any deeper and if you break through the outer paper layer, the screw looses its hold, add another screw...

The picture you have looks like the screw is just so barely past the outer paper layer. I see the paint layer, the texture layer and the "roll" of the paper as the screw drew in, it looks a little much, so be careful how deep the screws are set, or you will have the same problem again, only now 3 screws. By the way, good pic, it shows good detail.

With the textured surface on the wall, a little latex caulk can be carefully placed over the screw head and the excess wiped off with a damp sponge or cloth, leaving the rest of the surface around the screw original. Let that dry, say a couple of hours or longer, it will shrink, and maybe apply a second coat to build it up a little more. Cleaning around it may be tedious, but it should result in a surface after painting that will blend in well enough to make the issue disappear.

Touch up the paint only at the spots repaired with a small brush. You have a paint that has a sheen to it and to use a wide brush or roller will show up different in the paint. Small brush, touch up ONLY the dry caulk. Or maybe you will be lucky and the way the paint goes on will not be a concern. But in my experience, the paint will "flash" (not the same sheen) where the new paint meets the old. If it is flat paint this will not happen.


Running computers in basement storage room safely I have kinda an odd one. I'm mostly concerned about fire safety here and am not concerned about power, I already know how to handle that properly.

I have a somewhat large basement with an unfinished storage room that is probably 150 square feet total. The room also contains the gas water heater and furnace.  I have a 19" server rack that I'd like to put in there and run 2 or 3 servers in it at a time. These are servers that draw 300W of power and so generate about 3000 BTUs of heat per hour.  There are not any combustibles next to the water heater, furnace or servers.

My questions are:

Is it safe to run servers/computers next to a gas water heater if I
give them about 3-4 feet of clearance?
Will I have to worry about the heat generated by the servers not being handled by the airflow?

3x 300 watt servers together would produce ~3070 BTU/hr. ~1023 BTU/hr each.

There's no particular hazard to running the servers near a water heater or furnace, other than the heat associated with those items raising the baseline before you add the heat thrown off by the servers. Most system administrators would choose not to but that's from a "hazard to the computer" point of view, not fire hazard - Nothing quite like having a water heater fail and spray your servers with hot water to ruin whatever service you were running on them.

You have provided no data on airflow or ventilation - it's certainly possible that the temperature may become excessive without some active ventilation and/or cooling.

If the ceiling height is 8 feet, there's about 89 lbs of air in the room. The specific heat of air is 0.24 BTU/lb/degreeF (varies somewhat with temperature and pressure), so in the absence of airflow into or out of the room and with infinitely insulating walls/floor/ceiling, you'd be looking at ~140F temperature rise per hour. Might be a bit toasty for the servers, though it would save a bit on hot water bills. Real walls, floor, ceiling will bleed off some heat, but you still might have a problem without some active ventilation. During the heating season you may well be able to arrange the cold air return so that the servers get cooler air and contribute to heating the house - in warmer weather you'll want to dump heat somewhere else, though you could get some benefit by using a heat pump water heater (or just an add-on unit) to provide some (erratic, as you use hot water) cooling and make use of the heat from the servers.


Help finding a saw blade to cut clay bricks I need a saw blade (either for my circular saw or miter saw) that can cut clay bricks but am confused by the terminology surrounding them.

I know I can buy a diamond blade, but those are expensive, so I'm trying to buy one of the black discs that can cut masonry.

I'm confused because most of those discs seem to be called "cutoff wheels," and many say they are for cutting metal. So, questions:

Is a "cutoff wheel" compatible with my saws as long as it is the right diameter? Or do I need to buy something that is labeled a "blade"?
Can I use a cutoff wheel for cutting bricks even if it says it is for metal?
Some of the cutoff wheels I'm seeing have different RPMs associated with them. Does that information matter for my purposes?

If there is something other than a cutoff wheel that I should be searching for, please advise.

Buy a blade to cut masonry, that information is usually made clear on the blade.

Do not buy a blade rated for metal either cutoff or other, metal blades will blunt easily and may well break with possibly serious consequences.

Make sure you have, and wear the recommended safety gear, good eye protection is more than common sense.


Sink drain pipe leaking I recently replaced my bathroom sink and the new drain pipe isn't threaded like the older one.  So instead of a connection to the P trap with a threaded male/female piece and a tightening ring, the new drain simply slides into the P trap piece.  This is where the leak is happening.  I tried to use silicone to seal the open space but if running the water on a higher pressure, or if soap is used, the leak is immediate.   What is the best way to eliminate the leak?  Help!

Note: Both new and old piping is PVC.

These compression fit plumbing pieces need to fit together very straight to get a good seal.  Try to adjust all the joints to be as straight as possible.  Because each joint can either slide or rotate, this is normally possible to do without much effort.

Also, many bathroom sink drains use 1 1/4" pipe, but many P traps and the pipes coming out of the wall are 1 1/2".  It's a small difference, but it matters to make a proper seal.  Most P-trap kits these days come with an adapter washer that is thicker than the normal 1 1/2" washer.  It may have gotten lost in the packaging, or you may not have gotten one, but they are sold separately and are normally very cheap.


Thickness of Acrylic for shelves with 39" span I'm planning to mount acrylic shelves in front of a window. The shelves will be 10" deep and 39" long. I will be using brackets on both ends that run the full depth of the shelves. There will be no center support. I'd like to put about 20-30 lbs of plants on the shelves. What thickness does the acrylic need to be to avoid sagging and other structural problems? Would .5" thick acrylic work? .75" thick. The cost gets prohibitive quickly. Also happy to take suggestions of there is a stronger/cheaper plastic material (besides acrylic) that would also work. Thanks in advance.

Acrylic is not very resistant to bending. It is about 20 times weaker than tempered glass.

0.75 acrylic would be marginal. It would have enough bow to be visible to a sharp eye. And it scratches easily, as Ecnerwal mentioned.

I would recommend 3/8" tempered glass. Definitely tempered, much stronger and safer than plain glass.

And be aware that you cannot cut or drill tempered glass, it will shatter. Get the size right the first time.


How do I paint a metal sheet fence with a spray gun? I am looking at painting a metal sheet fence with a spray gun.

How do I calculate the amount of paint needed?

What are the preparations that I need before painting, should I use a primer, do I need to wash it first with a pressure hose? Sand it?

The fence is a Galvanized steel fence, and it has been painted before. I will be spraying outdoors, and there is small gaps between the sheets. they are +- 2 meter wide sheets side by side.

The spray gun I am using: High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) system with 1.4-1.7mm Fluid Tip.

You'll have some waste with spraying. Considerably more than with a brush or roller, anyhow. Find the square footage---both sides---and divide 325 into it. You'll get about that amount, 325 square feet per gallon, if you're careful. You will likely need more than one coat…

Also, make sure the surface has been well prepared by removing loose paint and sanding rust spots. You'll want a good primer, preferably oil-based, on those bare spots.


Running NM and BX Cables – Stackable Staples – Rim Joists - NEC2017/2020 I mocked up some cable runs and was hoping someone could confirm that they don’t break any NEC2017/2020 rules.  The wires are run along the rim joists on the upper edge of the wall right under the basement ceiling joists. The staples will be used every 3 ft.  The wall itself sticks out perhaps 1” inch past the rim joist wood.  This is the main reason I am looking for guidance.
On the very top I have a 6/3 and an 8/3 wire going supported by appropriate size staples to the ceiling joists.  I believe these are OK to run without any support boards due to their size.
Question 1: In the middle I will have 8 NM cables run the same way the sample one is, filling every slot of the staple (the staple is rated for 8 12/2 cables).  As you can see, part of the staple is sticking out past the wall by about 1 inch.  It doesn’t touch the nearby heating pipe, but overall, is it OK to stick out like that or will that fall into “physical damage” category of the code?
Question 2: On the bottom you see two BX cables which are secured by special stack-able staples.  The staples are rated to be stacked, however the outer staple also sticking out past the wall by 0.5-3/4” inches.  Same concern – is that OK as far as the “prone to physical damage” NEC portion is concerned?
Many thanks in advance.

The height is usually the issue in a basement 8’ has always been ok but code really doesn’t have a height if on the ceiling or crawl space there is no minimum height. I have worked with inspectors that were ok with 7’.
My opinion would be because this is above a pipe it would not be an issue.
With that said at my current location I was doing some fairly extensive permitted work and I had just moved to this county and the inspector did not know me and was being a real jerk actually making things up that were not code.
I asked him for the code references and and pulled out my hand book.( He was not going to sign my permit off before that) when I gave him my license number he said well that’s the way I like it And he then signed off on the job.
Some inspectors are real jerks to home owners. If the height is above 8’ it should fly without problems. Below 8’ it might be an issue. But it should not be.
I might suggest to have enough slack to rotate it up to the floor joist if he flags it. a strip of plywood as a backer and put it there would be code legal even if below 8’. Your location is better in my opinion because of the stronger wood the clips are attached to and the pipe is also protecting the wires.


How should I remove the water from my pool cover? Winter is finally over, and it's time to remove the cover from my above ground pool.  However, snow and rain have left quite a bit of water on the cover.

I see three options

Pull the cover off, and let the water go into the pool.
Use a garden hose, and try to siphon some of the water off.
Buy a pump, and pump the water off.

The water on the cover is gross, so I'm not sure I want to just let it go into the pool.

I don't know if siphoning would work, as I'm not sure I'd be able to get it started, or if it would continue to flow once started.

Haven't looked into buying a pump yet, so I'm not sure if they're expensive, or how much electricity they consume. I'd also have to monitor the pump, so it didn't run dry.  Which doesn't sound ideal.

Is there a tried and true method that pool owners prefer? Or any methods I haven't mentioned?

The water in the pool will also be gross, so I wouldn't rule out option 1.  Especially if you'd otherwise be refilling the pool with a water source that has metals or other problematic contaminants.

Option 2 will work if and only if you can get the siphon hose outlet to a lower point than the water on the cover.  If you can reach that level then I would suck it up (pun intended) and use this option.

There are automatic pool cover pumps designed specifically to run when there's water on the cover and then shut off.  Cheap ones are under $50, so not a bad option either.

You've covered all the options.  I've done all three, and now have a mesh cover that lets water drain into the pool when it's on.


How do I repair a canned light that's falling down? I apologize if the term is not "can light", but I don't know what these types of lights are called.

Anyhow, the "can" of one of our lights has fallen out from the drywall ceiling (just a bit), and pushing it back in doesn't help because the hole in the drywall is too big. How do I get the can to stay up?

Normally can lights are attached to the joists, so the housing itself wouldn't usually fall out.  What is probably falling out is the trim piece that fits inside the housing.

If you remove the bulb, you can usually pull the trim piece out partially.  Once you do that, you'll see a couple wires (look like coat hanger wires).  If you squeeze those you can pull the trim piece out the rest of the way.  Those wires are what hold the trim piece in the light housing. Over time they can lose their "springyness" and slide out a bit.

Just take the trim piece with you to a home store and you should be able to buy a replacement, or you might be able to bend the wires a bit to get them to fit in snugly again.


Can a normal fridge be quieter than one with inverter compressor? I can't decide between

Liebherr CN 4015
and
Panasonic NR-BN34FW1

Both are good candidates for me but not sure about the brands, and my major concern is the noise. I was led to believe that inverter compressor is quieter but my findings based on forum threads and reviews are inconclusive. I'd imagine it almost never runs at full speed or at least most of the time it's on minimum (like my Panasonic AC). I have no problem with low hum even if it's constant, but I can't stand high pitched cricket noise. Could it be that Liebherr's solution is actually quieter? If I want to believe the decibel rating then it's the case.

BTW: Panasonic lists "Compressor - no" which is ridiculous on the spec sheet, I've also seen they write "induction" there, not sure if that's a real thing or just another name for inverter compressor...

I have not worked on Panasonic inverter refrigerators in the US but I do repair GE and Whirlpool and Electrolux inverter controlled refrigerators, and they are quieter than the standard style of compressor due to the gradual increase in speed. However, that does add one more control board that may have an issue in the future if you are concerned with durability.  I wish I had more experience with those brands... hope that helps some!


Which side is up for the undersink Contact protector? I got the Contact brand Extra Large undersink plastic protector & I can't figure out which side is supposed to be up!  One side is super smooth & the opposite side has pretty flat but slightly raised ridge design.

Which side should be faced toward the floor?

The "woven" pattern faces up, the smooth side faces down (toward the floor). The smooth side will grip nicely against smooth clean cabinet floor surface, resisting slipping/movement.


3-way switch with 2 lights, alternate off/on I have (2) 3-way switches on stairs & 2 lights, one @ the bottom & 2nd one @ the top. Each switch up turns on 1 light & off 2nd light, down turns on 2nd light & off 1st light

OK, I got off track when i read about the screw colors on the switch corresponding to colors of wires. According to the diagram, I had it correct, but I changed the hot wire to the black screw and the traveler to the brass screw and it works perfectly! Thank you all for your help


How can I wire 3 Lutron Caseta dimmer switches in bathroom? I went to install 3 caseta luton dimmer switches in my bathroom, and found that I don’t understand the existing wiring which has a bank of 4 switches.

There are two dimmers and two on/off switches.

dimmer - controls a bank of overhead LED lights
dimmer - controls a second bank of overhead LED lights
on/off switch controls pendant lights over bathtub
on/off switch controls a fan over shower (that I don't want to touch)

I want to install the dimmers in #1-3, and leave the on/off for the fan alone. The issue is that their doesn’t seem to be any ground wires attached to the existing switches. The lutron dimmers are very simple, one green wire for ground and two black wires that usually connect to either existing wire, but the existing set up is confusing.

I’m hoping that someone might be able to clear this up for me. I’ve added two photos with description.

is a Leviton P2W for first bank of overhead LED lights. Red wire (a) goes into the box, 2nd red wire (b) is dead (tag says use for 3-way switches), green wire (c) for ground? is cut off, black wire (d) is connected to black wire in #2 and #3 with orange connector (e)
is a Leviton P2W for 2nd bank of overhead LED lights. Red wire (f1) connects to black wire (f3) with orange connector (f2), then goes into box. 2nd red (below picture) is dead like #1. black wire (g)  is joined with orange connector (e) to black wire from #1, and black wire from #3.
is a leviton on/off switch for pendant lights over bath tub. the black wire (h) goes to box, black wire on lower screw (i) goes to orange connector with #1 & #3, and 3rd black wire (j) comes from middle of switch, and goes to the middle of #4 switch.
(see second photo) is a leviton on/off switch for the fan over the shower. black wire on top (k) screw goes to box, two black wires (L) on bottom screw, both go into box, 4th black wire (m) goes from middle of switch and connects to middle of switch on #3.

We gotta do something about that mess

There's no way to avoid the fact that this many wires will be a huge mess in this box.  It's already a huge mess and efforts were made to keep it neat.

Your #1 problem is just what you're running into - wires are not well-marked.  You've done yourself a huge favor by identifying everything before you tore it all apart.  But now let's mark every single wire before we go any further.  Get some colored tape.

Color coding

Wires themselves are color-coded thusly.

Green for ground (mandatory)
White or gray for neutral (mandatory).
Hot - any other color.  It's convenient to use black for always-hot, or a second color if you have 2 circuits in there, which mercifully you do not.

Wires can also be marked with black or colored tape.  If a wire is a hot color, marking it with tape is only an identifier.   If in cable, marking a neutral with a hot color makes it a hot.  This probably won't come up in  your case, just don't do that.   Putting white, gray or green on a hot colored wire does NOT make it a neutral or ground (unless the wire is quite large, like #00 or larger).  So feel free to use white or green to mark a hot.

Anytime you mark a wire, take the time to mark it on both ends - otherwise you'll lose your mind later.

Mark those hots

This is what's really happening.  Notice it's fairly straightforward when you untangle the wires.

Right now, you have supply coming in, and 4 loads going out.  Supply neutral is simply nutted with the 4 load neutrals in a big 5-bundle.  Grounds all go to those plentiful and convenient ground screws in the back of the box - you'll be adding more to those, as many of your switches will want ground and some will NEED ground.  The screws that hold it down, are not good enough as a ground path.

Then your supply "hot" goes to every single switch.  It looks like in some cases, like #3, it uses both a screw and a backstab to make the connections. The screw-backstab are connected together internally.  If you have a non-contact voltage tester (or a contact one), this will be the terminal that is always hot, even when all the switches are off.   This is the same wire.  I recommend you color-code this one black.    Which it already is in most cases.  Mark it with black tape otherwise.  Be very clear which cable this comes from, I would even go ahead and mark the black wire with black tape to make it clear.

Then, off each switch, is a "switched-hot" wire going to the load.  This is the one you want to carefully mark.   This wire is only energized when the switch for that load is on.  I want you to use your colored electrical tape to mark every single one of them something other than black.  When you get pigtails on the switches, mark them too.   Now it looks like this

Every single wire has a color, and the color matches its purpose.

This is the key to not losing your mind in a box like this.

Adding those smart switches

It's going to get more messy with the smart switches.  Some of them will need neutral.   That neutral bundle already has 5 wires in it, we'll ned to add one more - a short pigtail, maybe 6" or so.  That pigtail will go to another new wirenut which will take all the neutrals from the smart switches.  You can get special connectors designed to take as many as 8 wires, if you can't get 6 in a wire nut.

The smart switches may also dangle unused pigtails, but you're familiar with that.

End up looking like this


Is it a problem if several load bearing studs aren't plumb? To make a long story short, please check the picture that I took. There are 2 vertical load bearing studs are not parallel.  The contractor moved one of the studs to the left at the bottom.

Is that OK to be like that?  Or it will be a potential problem in the future?
Thanks in advance!

While the world won't end if it stays, the top of the stud should also be moved. It's easy to do and lazy not to. There are a few reasons:

When locating the stud later for mounting photos or whatever a person would be led astray after finding the stud at one height and then trying to hit it at another.
Any electrical or other hardware attached to it will also be (slightly) askew.
Drywall hangers might be frustrated if their sheet ends on that stud or their screws don't hit in the field as expected.
It's technically less strong at a slant, though practically speaking it's not a problem.
It looks shoddy. No contractor I'd hire would leave it leaning simply as a matter of pride.

More concerning are the places where joists rest on unsupported plates (due to the plates being cut completely out). Studs should be added against the duct cutouts to support those areas.


How can I lower an attic ladder by remote control? We have just put in an attic ladder in a shop. The problem is that we have a 10 ft ceiling and I can't reach it. What can I put on it to make it come down automatically with a remote control or switch?

My problem is not opening the hatch, but reaching the ladder itself. I can't reach the ladder to unfold it.

There are kits you can buy, where you attach a metal ring to the door and then have a pole you store nearby to reach the ring and pull down on to extend the ladder


How to repaint a metal door and keep the paint from scratching off? I need to paint an exterior door that not only is metal, but has a small amount of rust on the outer edges. The door is used quite often and takes a lot of wear and tear. The past paint jobs have not held up very long and I have been given the task to prevent this from happening again. I primed, painted and put a laquor finish on the door, thinking this would do the job. Nope, didn't work! Any suggestions?

Priming and Painting Galvanized Metal, condensed from KILZ.com, other manufacturers also make specific paints and primers for galvanized metal.

The galvanizing process, which is designed to prevent rust, leaves an oily film that can prevent coating adhesion. The zinc in galvanized metal can produce a milky “white rust” (which is common when it has weathered) that must be removed with a stiff brush or abrasive pad, prior to coating. It’s necessary to remove the oily film that can prevent coating adhesion with a water-based cleaner/degreaser.

Prime the surface with a water-based primer. Since oil-based primers can interact with the zinc in galvanized metal, causing premature peeling, always use a water-based primer when painting galvanized metal. KILZ® 2 Primer is an excellent choice when priming and painting exterior galvanized metal. It will grip to the metal surface and provide a better surface for the paint to adhere.

todayshomeowner.com/how-to-paint-a-galvanized-metal-door


Is it OK to have a gas water heater in a bedroom closet? I have a laundry room with a gas water heater in the closet.  I was thinking about taking out the washer and dryer and renting the laundry room as a bedroom because there is a bathroom next to the laundry room.  The water heater is vented to the outside and it is in a closet, would it be OK to use the room as a bedroom? I am in California.

As stated, the room, itself, would have to meet codes for a bedroom (size, egress, etc.)

As for the water heater, it needs combustion air. If the room is smallish and making it a bedroom means it's going to be closed off, then you likely will need to convert the gas heater to either electric or to direct vent. The latter adds a blower that pulls in combustion air from outside. The con to that is that it may be noisy if in a closet.


Post to beam connections I was told that I could find some angle brackets to secure the post to the beam. However, I'm finding nothing that doesn't require me to remove the set beam and start over. What is code? Is this going to be a custom / metal shop deal at this point? I'm fine with a black angle bracket that I can paint to match other hardware in this area of the house. Thoughts?

Plenty of 1950s/60s gluelam post and beam that are attached with a straight steel heavy strap going from the post to the beam, with bolts through to one on the other side. No need for an angle-bracket, per se. They could also be lag bolted in, but through-bolting with machine bolts and nuts is what I've seen on those buildings. Then again, a stock nailplate truss connector would probably also work (if you need anything - might depend on your earthquake exposure, but then you get back to "what did the engineer specify?")


Recommened nailing schedue for cripple studs between header and top plate I have a 2x6 header for a window in a remodel with approx 5" long cripples between the header and top plate.  What is the preferred nailing schedule for the attaching the cripple studs to the top plate and header per the IRC?  Its obviously a little tight and I'd prefer just to toenail 2 8D common nails if possible (one into the header and the other into the top plate)

If you can nail down through the top plate (e.g. before the second top plate is installed) then 3 12d nails is standard for 2x6 framing. For nailing the cripple into the header, toenailing should be fine, but I'd use 12d glue coated framing nails (greenish nails). Save the 8d nails for attaching sheathing.

Note, this is just personal experience, your local codes may require otherwise. It doesn't hurt to ask your building inspector what they require.


High water level in toilet bowl after flushing How can I lower the water level in the bowl of a comfort height Kohler 1.6l flush with canister valve?

You can't adjust the bowl water depth - it's set by the height of the trap that's cast into the bowl.  However, you can adjust the water depth in the tank as suggested by @Daniel Griscom.

There also might be an obstruction in the trap that's artificially raising the height.  Plunge and/or snake should take care of that.


Bathroom mirror fogging up even when bathtub is not in use What could possibly cause a bathroom mirror to fog up? Not the shower or bath, though, I'm sure about that. Because neither has been used for a month. So, what could cause that? And how should I fix that?

If it's fogging up without a local source of high humidity there are a few other things that could cause it (probably in combination):

The mirror being mounted on a cold/badly insulated outside wall.
An extractor fan in the bathroom drawing in steam from other sources (cooking, another bathroom etc.) which should be ventilated locally.
Damp, for example from leaking plumbing or weather getting in
Drying washing or towels over a heater in there


How can I remove grease and dirt stains from unfinished wood? I purchased a handmade toolbox, an an auction, made from an old peach crate with old cheese boxes for drawers. It was used in a workshop and has oil and grease stains all over it from years of use. How can I clean it up? My wife would like to place it in her craft room because it had belonged to her great-uncle.

Here's a few tricks I've learned from cleaning up a few old wooden handplanes, where I wanted them to look nice without taking all the patina off:

give it a rub-down with oil, either curing (e.g. linseed oil), or non-curing (e.g. mineral oil, camellia oil). If you use a curing oil, it's more permanent. This may even out the stains a little bit without removing them entirely. It also can bring out the chatoyance in the wood and act as a minimal finish. If you pick a darker colored oil, it may disguise the (presumably dark) grease stains better. (NOTE: I'm talking about oil, not finishing products that call themselves oil. For example, danish oil usually contains polyurethane, and "tung oil" finishes could be anything.)
try cleaning with mineral spirits (paint thinner) . This will soak in and may partially dissolve the old grease and even it out a bit. Like adding oil, this will not remove it completely, but it's pretty harmless to try (as long as you wear a mask and stay away from open flame).
If you want to be more aggressive, try using some fine (like 600 grit) sandpaper by hand. This will remove some patina, and may require you to sand the whole thing--so think carefully before proceeding. But if you go lightly, you may be able to improve one spot and fade it into the surrounding area. If it's too slow, you can always use coarser paper.


How to safely add power switch to power strip? I have two powered monitor speakers on my desk. Each speaker has a power rocker switch on the back and it's a nuisance I would like to circumvent. I would like to add an extended power switch to a 3-plug power strip that I can be secured to an accessible area of my desk. I don't want to worry about it causing an electrical fire when I'm away from my desk.

I'm thinking I could install an shallow electrical box with a light switch to control the power. How dangerous is something like this? Is there a better way of doing it? I have plenty of experience doing electrical work.

Those power strips are available with switches built in, in fact I have several...


Connecting push fit to a 3/8in supply faucet line: NPTF to compression threads? I have a dedicated water filter faucet with a 3/8 female 'compression' supply line (parallel threads). I am interested in connecting a push-fit based filter system to this faucet, but I'm not sure how to connect the push-fit tubing to the faucet. The faucet supply looks like this:

The most viable option at the moment seems to be the PP051223W stem adapter from John Guest. The problem I see with this is that the threads are NPTF but the faucet line has straight threads. Won't it leak? Is there a better way to connect 3/8 tubing to 3/8 compression faucet?

You will need two fittings to connect 3/8 tubing to 3/8 compression together. Use Teflon tape between the two fittings to prevent leaks, but don't use any on the compression fitting. Remove and discard the brass compression nut and brass compression ring/sleeve to connect your 3/8 hose.

John Guest - Straight Adaptor – Nptf Thread

Part No. PI011223S --- TUBE OD 3/8" --- THREAD NPTF 3/8"

http://www.johnguest.com/product/inch-size-threaded-fittings/straight-adaptor-bsp-thread-3/

BrassCraft - Compression Female Adaptor

Part No. 66-6-6 --- 3/8 in. O.D. Tube x 3/8 in. FIP

https://www.brasscraft.com/product/38-in-o-d-tube-x-38-in-fip-3/


Refrigerator freezes contents, even when set to warmest setting Our refrigerator, an Amana/Whirlpool ABB1921DEW5, works very well -- rather too well, even, as the contents of the refrigerator are freezing, even with the refrigerator thermostat on its warmest setting (1), and irrespective of their location in the fridge (putting it in the door doesn't stop it from freezing).  Other than a stuck thermostat, what could cause this misbehavior?

The freezer provides the cooling for the refrigerator. The refrigerator settings usually just adjust vent ports from the freezer. Some units use just vent ports, other units utilize ports along with a fan. Set the fridge at midpoint setting then adjust the freezer setting until your stuff in the fridge no longer ices up.


Does the pump for a water tank have to be next to the tank or some distance away? Does the pump of a water tank have to be next to the water tank or can it be further down the line?

Assuming we're talking about a well here.

In a well system you need a pump to get the water out of the well and an accumulator tank to store it so the pump can fill the tank against some sort of air space for pressurized storage so the pump doesn't run all the time.

Submersibles may be in a 400ft well, or in a shallower well with either submersible or jet pump, but across the lot. What matters is that the pressure tank is in an enclosure to protect it from freezing and that the pressure switch be in the pump-tank circuit before the system shutoff valve.

Yes, the pressure tank can be displaced quite a distance from the pump; either by depth of the well or convenience of placement for the tank due to climate constraints.

If you're talking about a stock tank or other unpressurized system. The issue that matters is you have a level switch that works to turn the pump off. The constraint is the cost in running the pipe and power losses in the electrical cable are what would determine how far away the pump can be located.


Boosting a dryer vent with an inline booster attached to the main line with a wye Our dryer has an airflow sensor and is always warning us that the lint filter needs to be cleaned, even when it has just been cleaned.  This started after we moved it to a new house that has the vent about 7-8 ft above the floor.  I've improved it by changing to a rigid duct, but it is still an issue.  I can't move or enlarge the vent (it comes out a bit above ground level and comes through concrete).

So, I'd like to look at adding a dryer vent booster, which costs $200-$300.  What about adding an inline duct booster (which costs about $50, but is not designed to handle the lint) that draws from the room air, goes through a one way valve and then a wye into the dryer vent.

Has anyone tried that?  Do you think it would work ok?

That seems unlikely to work. A wye is not a venturi, so all that adding more air to the dryer vent is going to accomplish would be to further reduce flow from the dryer.

You are absolutely certain that the whole duct (and vent/exit) is clean and clear? You replaced the whole thing with rigid duct?


Basement egress question I'm considering remodeling one side of my basement, adding a new bedroom. I've been researching egress codes and it's not entirely clear to to me if my basement meets the egress code now, or if it will after my remodel.

The wall along the side I want to remodel, is about half underground, with two  windows and one exterior door. There is an upstairs deck outside which runs the entire length of the wall. The sill for each window is right at foundation/ground level which is 44" above the basement slab. The door is a full height exterior door, with a concrete stairwell leading down to it outside. The deck structure starts about 10 inches above the tops of the windows and door.

I know the windows are too high from the floor to meet IRC egress code, but since there is an exterior door, does that mean that the code is satisfied? How does the deck affect this?

For the remodel, I'm considering having the new bedroom span that entire wall, which means all windows and the exterior door would be inside the new bedroom. This would leave the rest of the basement to be a rec room without any windows.

Incidentally, the basement is accessed from the main floor via interior stairs.

Assuming that the door alone meets egress code, my understanding is that even though the door would be inside the new bedroom, it would still be sufficient to meet egress code for the new rec room area. Yes?

Any other things I should consider? Thanks!

Yes, a door that opens directly to the exterior meets the “egress” requirement for sleeping rooms (bedroom).

There are few requirements for “exiting through adjoining rooms.” However, if the door between the two rooms has a lock and is the only exit from the recreation room, then you’d have a problem. However, you have an interior stairway so it doesn’t matter.


Craftsman 137.248760 tablesaw blade comes loose I have a Craftsman 137.248760 table saw that has recently started giving me problems. When I run the saw, the blade appears to loosen and continues to spin freely on the arbor after I turn the saw off. I've tried tightening the nut back down and replacing the blade but it immediately loosens. It hasn't completely come off the arbor yet but I'm afraid it will.

Any ideas how I can make this stop happening?

If the blade is spinning, but the nut remains secure add a washer between the blade and nut. If the nut is loosening look at it's threads for evidence of cross-threading; it may be stripped. If so apply a thread-locking fluid and snug it tight. Check that the blade opening is the correct size for the arbor (I'm sure it is but...) and that the blade doesn't have a knock-out bushing that has come detached.


Advice on supporting a sagging bay window We have bay window that has sagged enough that that windows are out of square and no longer open or align properly to get a good seal. As such, they are drafty in the winter and we can't open them in the spring or fall to enjoy.

It seems the options for leveling a bay window are to suspend it using cables from the top, or build support from underneath. The cable method doesn't seem to be a good option because the roof of the bay window is basically flat and metal. Here are the steps I'm planning on taking with questions.

Lay plywood down on the ground and using a floor car jack, slowly raise the bay to slightly overcorrect the level issue. This will allow some settling when adding the supports. Questions: will a car jack work here?
Using pressure treated 2x4s, build 2 knee braces. . Questions: will 2x4s look tacky? My plan is to paint them white
Attach knee brace to cinder block foundation and the bottom frame of the bay window. Questions: how should I attach the knee brace to the foundation? Tapcon screws? Is this structurally sound? What type of fasteners should I use for the knee brace joints?

Here is a view the underside of the bay window:

Final questions: is this all a bad idea? Should I have supports in the ground instead? Or maybe the whole bay window just needs to be replaced? Any and all advice would be appreciated.

I cringe when I see this type of construction. How good are you at mixing concrete? I'd be digging out that area under the bay window, compacting it, adding a few reinforcing rods into the  existing foundation, a little framing and pour a 6" slab/footer. Then use your jacks to slowly raise or even over raise the window, cinderblock and morter it in and cover with a coat of stucco. Don't forget to extend the vent with a prefab from your home store.


How to cut a 4x4 fence post lengthwise and at an angle? I need to make lengthwise cuts down the entire length of an 8 foot long 4"x4" fence post like so:

In that diagram the blue lines represent the cuts I need to make, and the purple areas are the areas that will be removed by the cuts.

I (likely) don't have access to a table saw, so I'm hoping there is a solution involving a circular saw or something similar. It needs to be something that can cut 4" thick wood length-wise. In addition to the tool of choice, the larger problem is holding the saw at the correct angle for the duration of the cut. I would imagine some kind of jig/railing needs to be put in place, but I have no idea what.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

A Minimum 10" circular saw or table saw are the best options either would be $500 w/ the table saw being the best option.

A band saw could also work.


How do I remove this tap valve? how to remove tap valve? Any suggestions?

The round piece that is around the valve stem appears to be threaded into the outer body of the valve assembly. The internal hex shaped hole is used to accept a tool that fits over the valve stem and engages the inside shape to allow that round piece to be screwed out.

It is unlikely that a standard tool exists to extract the valve assembly and it may be necessary to contact the manufacturer to check on the availability of a specialized tool.


S Trap conversion - not enough room I'm getting some gurgling from my kitchen sink which I think is due to this S trap. No ventilation.  I want to convert to a P trap, and bring an AAV into the situation but with the current PVC layout I don't know if it's doable.  I started looking at this flexible pipe solution as a way to change the angle and give me more space to pipe into the drain.
Is that the way to go? Or is there a better solution?

A possible "other and better" solution from IPC (which may or may not be what your local code is based on - mine is, but this specific section is then banned in the local modifications) is to increase the size at the downturn - see section 917.
By making the downpipe a size larger than the input from the sink, the downpipe cannot be filled to the point of siphoning. I think 2" is called out in that section as currently written, and your typical kitchen sink is 1-1/2"
However, that may be as much work as just moving the drain connection to the wall, with a vent, which I'd argue is better. Certainly more work than installing an AAV, but I'm biased against AAVs since they are prone to fail, and when they fail, they stink, so I will go to considerable effort to get a real vent in place rather than use one.
For "Tee and AAV", flip the sink connections so the tailpiece is on the left, into a P-trap, into the side opening of a Sanitary Tee on top of the drain standpipe, and extend the AAV from the top of the Tee up as high as you can get it under the counter. Maintain 1/4" per foot slope on the "horizontal" runs towards the drain.


Do NEC receptacle spacing rules apply to solid (half-wall) banisters I have a solid banister over my stairs. If it counts as a wall per NEC, then it needs an outlet. I can't find the reference in NEC defining a wall. Anybody know if this counts?

I would consider this a hallway and hallways less than 10' do not require an outlet NEC 210.52.H. This is not a room as defined by 210.52.A.

The commentary for 210.52.a.3 says:

  any wall space that is unbroken along the floor line by doors, fireplaces, archways and similar openings must be included in the measurement. Room dividers such as bar type counters and railings are required to be in the 6' measurement.

But this would be a hallway or landing. Local code may require an outlet at the landings but since it is not defined in NEC 210.52 there is no requirement for them in landings.


Can I use 14/3 wire and a 20 amp double pole breaker for a 240 volt baseboard heater? Can I use 14/3 wire 20 amp double pole breaker for a 240 volt baseboard heater of any watts? What's the electrical code?

Only if the heater draws less than 12 amps would 14 AWG be adequate.  And that would require a 15 amp breaker, not 20, to properly protect 14 gauge wire.

Space heating devices require wiring to be 80% derated which is assumed by the electrical code to be "on" 100% of the time.

A heater rated up to 24 amps requires 10 AWG and a 30 amp breaker.

A heater rated up to 16 amps needs at least 12 AWG and a 20 amp breaker

A heater up to 12 amps needs at least 14 AWG and a 15 amp breaker.

The heater will have volts, amps, and watts on its "ratings plate".


14-2 and 14-3 into one box In my basement wiring diagram - in Box #1  -- I have a 14-2 cable from the panel and a 14-3 cable terminating a 3 way switch (6 & 7) from the same circuit.

Is this ok, normal, against code, dangerous?

Is there a better way to wire my basement layout off of one circuit with two 3 way switches?

Thank you.

No.  You've created a wiring loop.

There's a fundamental rule that currents must be equal in each cable or conduit.   The way you accomplish that is by laying your cables in a tree topology. Any number of branches, but branches can't ever rejoin each other.

You need to air-gap either the two things in box 5, or air-gap the two switches in box 1.

Stick a partition inside the box and no wires cross it. Partitions are mandatory for separating low-voltage wiring from mains wiring in the same junction box.   Truth be told they're not physically mandatory in this case, but the idea of total separation is mandatory.

In fact, I really do recommend physical separation because if you don't, it's a matter of time before some gooberhead decides he wants to put a smart switch in a 3-way remote location, so he crosses the partition to poach a neutral wire.  And now you have an illegal loop.

Also remember you can take power to the lamps first and double-back to the switches in a "switch loop", but if you do, Code requires you to use 14/3 in the switch loop. That will leave a spare wire, which is future neutral for use by smart switches.


Advantages of spray vs roller system for painting a flat I'm getting ready to start renovating an old flat, which for some time had subtenants, then some friends living in it for some time, then subtenants again and so on... It is not in a bad condition, just requires some freshing up - walls painting, some floor renovations (ok, this will probably wait), replacement of electrical sockets, that kind of thing...

My question is with regards to wall painting. So far I've always painted walls with rollers. Nowadays I see on the web, that spray systems also exist that seem to result in a nicer job.

I'm interested, what would be the advantages of such systems over roller application of paint, and is it worth it? I'm interested in painting the walls in a nice white, but would like to get a relatively "smooth" (fine) finish, not something rough.

Sprayers are capable of giving a very smooth finish very quickly. That is why you will often see professionals use sprayers when finishing trim, stairs and cabinets. The negatives of a sprayer would be the amount of prep time required to start painting. You have to tape and plastic EVERYTHING. Do not underestimate the amount of over and back spray you will get from a sprayer.

Also keep in mind if the walls aren't smooth right now, spraying over them won't make them smooth. You'll need to sand them down before applying your coating. You can also get a relatively smooth finish with the right roller and pan if you spend enough time sanding and prepping your surfaces.


Well system cant keep up Hello I have a well system and cannot run my 2 hose bibs at the same time.  Also my sprinkler system only runs for about 2 mins before my pump runs to 0 pressure in the system.  I installed a new bladder tank last year and I just installed a new 40-60 pressure switch

You appear to be exceeding the amount of water (or rate of water per unit time) that your pump (or well itself) can supply at once.
If this is a change from past behavior, it could reflect a pump degrading with age, or a change in the hydrology around the well.

In the case of a degrading pump, there might be plenty of water in
the well, but the pump can only pump it out so fast.
In the case of a change in hydrology, the pump could be pumping out
all the water in the well faster than the well refills from the
ground around it.


Behr 1 part epoxy paint vs 2 part epoxy for cement floor Garage floor gets wet in winter. I think 2-part epoxy would make the floor slippery. Would Behr 1 part epoxy paint be better?

I added granules to epoxy paint for grip on floor surfaces, ok we were dealing with a large factory floor not just a few square metres...


Can I put a switch in after a GFCI and still have proper protection? I am about to install a fan in the shower stall.  It is code to do so as long as the fan is GFCI protected.  However, I don't want the switch that controls the fan to turn the receptacles on and off.  So, this is the plan:  MAIN CIRCUIT to GFCI to REC #1 to REC #2 to SWITCH to FAN.  I know that everything after the GFCI is protected; but I want to make sure that putting a switch in the chain isn't going to mess anything up in terms of proper GFCI protection for the fan.

A configuration with GFCI protected outlets and switched lights but and unswitched outlets is a completely ordinary and unremarkable configuration.


How to calculate CFM/pressure needed to move water vapor through duct? I made a cheap, high capacity humidifier from a mist maker, storage crate, and 120mm fan (the fan blows into the crate, which pushes the mist out). This 4" flex pipe works fine to exhaust the mist when it is at this fully contracted state.

But humidifying one room isn't really why I made this: I wanted to be able to put it near the return air vent and humidify the entire townhouse. Unfortunately that vent is in the loft with no water access, so I've tried to connect 2 of these 8' ducts together to get up there and over to the vent. But when I do this, the vapor flow at the end is pretty weak, not nearly enough to humidify the whole townhouse. The vapor is condensing in the duct and falling back into the tank. I figure that if the fan had more static pressure it would be able to push the vapor fast enough to prevent it condensing. But I'm also trying to keep it fairly quiet, so I don't want to stick a big honking duct booster fan on there without knowing how powerful it needs to be. How do I calculate that?

Propeller fans aren't really good at producing any static pressure. They can move air quietly but as soon as they see any restriction air flow stops. Your basically making a remote mount fan assist humidifier.

I'm not sure if it would fit your application but if you have return air present, why not use it's draw to pull the vapour out of your box?

Use a short duct length connected positively to the return air register by using a boot to maximize surface area.

I know you said the vent is far away so another method would be to pipe a supply duct into the box and pipe the other side to the return.

Otherwise you will probably need a  squirrel cage type of blower. Noise moving air increases with increasing static pressure, think Dyson air blade hand dryers.

I answered this in a hurry this morning. To follow up. Calculating output cfm requires specialty tools. Basically it measures feet per minute, does a little math based on technician inputs and spits out a number.

The math is as follows

cfm=fpm x pi r²

Assume 10 feet per minute

Pi =3.14

r=radius for a 6" diameter pipe r = 3"

So (3x3)3.14=28.26

1 square foot 12"x12"=144

144/28.26=5.09

So 5.09x10(feet per minute) =50.9cfm


what type R value insulation for 960 sq.ft. garage I need to insulate a brand new 960 sq.ft. garage, 30 feet deep and 32 feet wide. planning on putting a house furnace w/central air. How should I go about insulating it, what R values where? I live in St. Louis, Mo.

Code minimum is generally R-13 for insulation inside stud walls, or R-10 for  insulation outboard of masonry walls. More is always better. But this question is far too broad and subjective to be satisfactorily answered; it's like "how should I build a house?" You can insulate your new garage any way you want, limited by the building code and existing construction (Frame? Block? Something else?), and subject to correct installation for the method you choose.


What is this thing inline with my dryer vent? Just bought a condo with appliances included, and the dryer is underperforming. Went to check the vent hose and saw this:

Acme Miami Model 9460 Dryer Vent Booster

If the vent has a long run to the external opening (up to 100 "effective" feet), this unit has a fan and a pressure sensor to automatically turn on when it senses dryer outflow to help push the exhaust air out.

When properly adjusted per instructions, the fan motor should come on when the dryer is in operation.


How should I fill the holes where my curtain rod was, so that I can reuse them? My curtain rail has fallen down and the holes are too big to plug and re-use. What is the best products/method to fill the deep holes and hang my curtain rails?

Please note:

Curtain rails are wooden.
I need to hang in the same place, as this is rented property.
Brick walls.

For clarity here is the hole:

Screw and plug:

How it should look:

I had the same issue with my curtains.  I was able to use the Tapcon concrete 3/16” by 2-1/4” concrete anchors.

If your holes are too large for the Tapcons: try drilling out the hole to a ½ inch in diameter and about two inches deep.  Then add some construction glue and pound in a ½ inch dowel.  You can then reattach the curtain hangers with wood screws.


Have I correctly identified this part on my air compressor? I have a Blue Hawk model 0300812 air compressor purchased several years ago from Lowe's. Sometimes, but not always, I get air leaking from here:

It doesn't leak from around the threads, as one might imagine, but instead through what seems to be a pin-hole in the cap of the screw. This is an intermittent leak. When it leaks, it will leak constantly for several months, but then it will go for months without leaking at all.
According to the documentation I found that seems to be part #8, the Check Valve. It's definitely not #10 the Relief Valve.

Have I identified this part correctly?
Can I simply pull what appears to be a nut out of the top of the check valve and replace it with one from the parts bin?
If I have to replace the whole check valve, is this a fairly standard compressor part, or do I have to find one specifically for this model or at least Blue Hawk brand?

That is indeed a check valve and it prevents pressure in the tank from leaking out through the compressor when it's not running.  This is nothing specific to the model of compressor you have and you can likely find a suitable replacement for the whole thing at a dealer that sells parts for compressors.  The key thing will be get one that has the correct threads to mate up with your tank and the input hose.
Remove this one and take it with you when shopping for a replacement.


the chain came off and when i put it back on it won't go around the bar The chain on a chainsaw I borrowed came off after I used it . I got in back on and it is tight but it will not go around the bar.It starts ok and the chain lock is not on.Why is this happening??

Chains do come off when they heat up if they are not tight.
There are usually 2 bolts on the side of the bar. Break these loose then there will be a screw to tighten /loosen. Loosen the bar move the bar back until the chain will go on.
Once the chain is on tighten the chain and rotate it by hand pulling down in the middle to check for tension. Once the guide no longer clears the bar but there is a little slack tighten the 2 bolts and you are good to go.