can an interior motion sensor be installed to an existing flourescent light fixture? our pantry has a rocker switch to turn on/off the flourescent light, but my husband forgets to turn it off manually. I'd like to know if we can install a motion sensor in place of the rocker switch and how is that done?

So you're looking for something like this?

It's an "Occupancy Sensor Wall Switch", which combines the functionality of an on/off pushbutton with a PIR motion sensor.
You would simply remove your existing switch and replace it with something like one of these.
When it senses movement it turns the lights on, and then after a pre-determined period of no activity it automatically turns them back off again.
You can also use the pushbutton to manually toggle the lights.


Is corrosion inhibitor paste conductive? I bought some Alumiconn terminals to connect 3 copper AWG 10 wires (more secure than wire nuts):

There is corrosion inhibitor paste inside each hole. Amazon product description described it thus: "Ports of connectors contain a layer of corrosion inhibitor that provides resistance from oxidation."

Can these be detrimental to the conduction of the copper (maybe forming insulator layers)?

Also these can be used in all pure copper wires (all of the 3 wires) right?

The paste inside the AlumiConn does not negatively affect the electrical connection. When the screw is tightened the paste between wire and the metal screw and the metal body of the AlumiConn is squeezed out.

You can use these for copper wires, but it is really unnecessary. In the upper picture the end of the wire is stripped too long. The insulation on the wire is supposed to be inside the skirt of the insulation on the AlumiConn. I think there is a strip gauge on back of the Alumiconn.

EDIT Memory failure! Just looked at my stash of AlumiConns and there's no strip gauge on the insulation.


How can I determine if CAT5 cable is wired for data or phone? We just moved into a home that has a renovated basement and all of the receptacles have two CAT5 wires pulled to them (one for telephone and one for data) but none of the wires are labeled or terminated in RJ45 or RJ11 jacks.  How do I test the wires to tell if they have data or phone signals?

If they are not terminated, they have no signals at all, until you terminate them and connect them to something.

Blue/white(with blue stripe) is normally the "line 1" pair in cat 5 cable used for phones. Green/white(with green stripe) is the standard line 2 pair, in the presently unusual case that you actually have 2 land-lines. Pins 4&5 for blue, 3&6 for green, on an 8-pin RJ-45. I would open the box (or the "Customer side" of the box if it's a Telco disconnect, not as likely inside the house - normally inside the house wiring is all yours) and look.

If you have a meter, it's easy (if tedious) to sort out the unconnected ones, if you are saying that you have a utility room that has a bunch that not terminated there either - strip a little and connect a 9V battery to a wire pair, then go looking for the other end with 9V across the wires you put it on. Label as you go, and it will get faster as you'll have fewer to check. Test leads with clips make this process easier but are not absolutely required.

Use reasonable care when testing for live phone lines - if it happens to ring, the voltage is significantly higher than the 48V you see when the phones are on the hook. On the other hand if it's completely dead (not as common with E911 laws) there may be no voltage at all.


Gas Water Heater will be permanately out of service Gas Water Heater will be permanately out of service. Pilot & Gas is shutoff.
Should I drain the water or leave it or does it matter at all?

Drain it
Doesn't have to be bone dry, but if you drain it then you avoid the possibility of 40 gallons of water all over the place. It wouldn't be scalding hot, but it would still make a mess.
Drain it.


Why does anode rod need to have metal thread contact? I'm both frustrated and confused. No one had mentioned to me, even the owners manual that says about replacing the anode rod, and zero instructions come with the new anode rod, said there needs to be metal to metal contact on the threads.

I hate leaks so I used both some dope and pink teflon tape. No leak for sure! But now I think i have to take the new rod out and clean all the threads so it makes contact. Why do threads need to contact? Isn't the rod itself enough to attract the corrosive elements in the water? Could I run a wire from the anode head to touch any other part of the heater on the outside to not have to remove the anode?

Update 2020-05-17: Measured resistance, 26 ohms on a spot with some less than clean metal. ~0.1 Ohm on a clean shiny metal edge of the tank fitting (was scuffed up by the impact socket for sure) and I cleaned the bolt head with brake cleaner and also scuffed with a wire brush (dremel drill).

The anode rod must be electrically in contact with the steel of the inner tank. Only this will confer sacrificial protection of the steel tank. The statement in the instructions is correct. See sacrificial metal. Google "sacrificial protection".

Even though you used dope and teflon tape you may well have electrical contact through the threads because the threads cut through the dope and tape. To check you would check the electrical resistance between the end of the anode rod and the fitting the rod threads into. You should get close to zero resistance (zero ohms).

If the measured resistance is not close to zero, you could perhaps just tighten the rod more and achieve metal-to-metal contact. I am sure you don't want to overtighten because you might be thinking of replacing this rod later, but you must achieve metal to metal contact for rod to do its job.

Also, overtightening could damage the tank. It could be that the threads of the anode rod must be only lightly coated with pipe dope for metal-to-metal contact to occur. You will just have to determine what you have.

EDIT
Glad to hear you got 0.1 ohm. I just went out and measured the resistance across the threaded brass joint on one of my outside faucets (warm climate tract house with faucet supply coming out of the soil) and got 0.1 ohm. I installed this with dope and tape because it leaked the first time with just tape.

I measured the resistance across the "dielectric union" supply line to my water heater and got hundreds of ohms.


Tenant Multi-Family Meter Box Amp and Wire Requirements First time posting on Home Improvement, please let me know if I am missing anything. I don't do electrical but my building designer needs some info to add to the blueprints (I thought this there are some standards and common install notes, but whatever).

I am wanting to build an ADU (in-law home) in the backyard with its own electrical meter with its own account. SMUD (our electrical company) wants us to install a duplex box and then wire our main house panel. The duplex box will then feed into the main panel for the ADU. The main house currently has 200Amp and would like the ADU main panel to be 200Amp.

Do I need a 200Amp Duplex box or 400Amp box?

What wire do I need from the duplex box to the ADU main panel (wire will be underground)? According to some sites online, wire needs to be aluminum #4/0 AWG in a 1.75" conduit. Is that true and is this recommended? or should we consider something else?

Theres a 125Amp box with description that we can add 125Amp to 225Amp with a 225 Amp branch tenant provisions 100,000 AIC. What does that mean? Can I use this box to give two branches of 200Amp main panels?

Thanks for your time on this!

The box you linked is the wrong style

Your first issue is that the "duplex box" (meter-pack) you linked uses the wrong style of metering, so it stands a snowball's chance in hell of being acceptable to SMUD.  In particular, that box uses a ringless configuration where the cover holds the meter in place, while SMUD, being an EUSERC utility, requires ring style metering hardware, where the meter is inserted with the cover already installed and a sealing ring is then used to attach the meter to the cover.

Fortunately, Siemens makes a similar box with the correct metering setup, namely the WEP4212.  This is a 400A box with 2 200A ring-style meter positions and an EUSERC-style utility wiring compartment, as well as the correct approvals for use in an area served by an EUSERC utility, like SMUD.

Fat aluminum is your friend here

Whether you go with individual wires in conduit or with cables (SER for the main house and direct bury quadplex for the ADU, presuming the meter-pack will live on the outside of the main house), you'll want to use aluminum wire here; 4/0 will suffice for a 200A feeder to a dwelling unit, since I doubt that you'll want any more than that for either the main house or the ADU, given the size of the buildings in question.  (The main house load calculations come out at around 120A or so, depending on how much current the air conditioner pulls, so a 200A feeder provides ample room for expansion.)

Go big or go home!

When it comes to putting in the panels for the individual buildings, scrimping on spaces is penny-wise and quite pound foolish, as adding a few spaces now is far cheaper than replacing an entire panel down the road.  I would go with a minimum of a 42-space, 200A panel for each unit here, preferably of a type convertible between main breaker and main lug as you'll probably need a main breaker on one panel and main lugs on the other, depending on where the meter-pack is located in this setup.  Of course, if you can get a 54-space or 60-space panel for a reasonable price, I would spring for it in a heartbeat, as I have not heard a single complaint from someone about having too many spaces in their electrical panel!

As to that (future) solar setup...

Since your solar power will be entirely net-metered by the ADU's meter, you'll need to have all your solar panels mounted on the ADU and wired back to its panel. This is needed to keep the inverter output branch circuits from violating the intent of NEC 210.25.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There is one more matter to pay attention to when installing this, and that is that you (or your electrician) will need to use an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver to correctly make up the lug connections on the various pieces of electrical equipment here.  This is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), and is a good idea anyway to keep your electrical system from developing a case of the loose lugnuts.


Is there a tool that can clean the fins of a base board heater? I have baseboard radiators in a new home (built in the 50s) and the fins are filled with lint. Vacuuming isn't pulling the stuff out. Is there a tool that can help with this?

Like most projects, the undertaker isn't limited to just one tool. You have plenty of options to get those heat-sinks cleaned up.

If the heaters are really as old as the house foundation, which is likely considering this was a convenient heating method for older homes (pre-1960), first you need to remove the front cover. You might have already done that since you are able to navigate the vacuum nozzle into the heat sinks which I can't imagine doing with the panels still on. The vacuum should be used towards the end of the cleaning process, which is great to pickup loose material, but not so much to "pry" off this build up of dust in question.

Sure, you can use a small little air can, but I would save that step towards the end as well for some detailed cleaning. But to get the bulk of the debris out, I recommend a portable air compressor with a Pistol Grip Blow Gun. Similar to the air can, but with much more pressure and focused aim. If you don't have a portable air compressor, it's definitely a good investment and you will find many uses for them. Many compressors on the market today either come with a set of attachments or can be purchased separately.

For safety, of course make sure no one else is in the area, and that you wear a face mask to avoid breathing in any debris. Leaf Blowers aren't recommended indoors if they are gas powered. Even electrical leaf blowers aren't recommended as the air has a much wider landing area and they don't have as much power as one would expect.

Also, before attaching the front cover (and possibly side covers), if you notice that the fins are severely out of shape, you should use an appropriate tool to straighten them out if possible. Doing so is very easy as the fins are very flexible, hence the reason why they might be out of shape. But it may take some time straightening out fin by fin. The purpose of doing this is to provide a better heat transfer and better, well, radiation. But if they are just very slightly bent, you shouldn't worry about it too much. Technically it will reduce efficiency, i don't know by how much, but it's expected to never see these fins in perfect shape. They may even purchased brand new with slight bends here and there so It's not a major concern.


Deep well pump malfunction My deep well pump (100 feet) does not activate automatically. Instead, I have to pour 2-3 gallons of water to activate it. The pressure is about 30. After a while, it will stop altogether and I have to call the plumber who says the foot valve and/or the rubber gasket is/are broken. He and his crew would pull out the length of the pipes replace the broken parts and the pump will do well. After a while, it will lose pressure and I have to go back to pouring water until it stops working. This cycle has happened 3x in the past 4 years and I am tired of paying the plumber and buying parts for replacement. Right now I am again pouring water to activate it. Sooner or later it will stop.  What do you suggest??

Hmmm. Pour water to activate it sounds like a Jet pump. Replace it with a submersible pump (Two-wire is more reliable than 3-wire in the modern era, I think - not to mention the wire costs less and on the comparable models I was comparing could also be one size smaller.)

Jet pumps are a holdover from a bygone era when electric motors were much less reliable, and are both troublesome and shockingly inefficient (power in compared to water out) .vs. a deep well submersible pump.


Outdoor lamp installation without outlet box I am replacing my old outdoor lamp. The new lamp has an X-shaped mounting bracket. However, my outlet does not have an outlet box (see pic), or may be there is one but the stucco has covered it. There is just a horizontal metal strip that I can see.

The old lamp was screwed into the screw in the center. However, the new lamp's bracket does not have such a feature.

Is there a way to install the "X" bracket to the horizontal strip? I don't want to break stucco to install the outlet box.

Weather metal or plastic there looks to be a box in this location. Removing the old screws and putting the new ones to hold the fixture will be fine, I believe it is not metal because I can see a 3rd wire not connected to anything a metal box would require the box to be bonded. Pull the old screws put up the new fixture, if metal used the bare copper to the new fixture bare copper if plastic just connect the black and white to the new fixtures black and white.


Straighten and strengthen this joint? How can I straighten and strengthen this joint?

I can remove the screws holding them together if needed, but that's pretty much all I can do.

That railing is probably fastened to posts on both to the left and right of your picture.

One scheme to shore up the existing railing would be to come up from underneath the existing railing with a new wood piece that is the same dimensions as the existing one and screw it up into the existing rail. If the new piece is straight it will push up the sagging joint. Make sure to run the new piece from post to post for best looks and maximal strength.
Another idea would be to cut out the existing rail back to the center of each post on the left and right. Then lay in a new rail piece that is spliced in over the existing posts.
The last and likely not the most feasible idea would be to install an additional post just under the joint. Make the added post high enough that it pushes the sagging joint up to the position it should be in.

I have to say that whoever installed that railing in the first place with a splice like that mid span between supporting posts did not do a quality job. A splice should normally always be over a supporting post of be part of a double or triple beam made up of pieces of lumber with all splices offsetted a good distance from each other.


Can sewage smell be from water heater if water DOES NOT smell? We bought a farm in 2019 and spent 2020 renovating the 1987 stick built house. We moved in November 2020. Since we have lived here there is an intermittent sewage/rotten egg smell from the basement when a lot of hot water is used--only the hot water and the smell does not come from the water. There is no mistaking where it is coming from. We can have the smell completely eliminated and then start a load of laundry and take a hot shower and the smell is strong again.
We put in a vapor barrier (poly wrap with sump and drain) one week and had a bathroom/laundry room plumbed in the following week with a sewage ejection pump installed. We have had the plumbing company out four times and the vapor barrier folks here once. I have communicated several times the correlation between the hot water usage and the smell. The plumbing company, who also installed the new hot water heater, said that if there is no smell in the water, the water heater is not the culprit. They have ran a camera in the lines and smoked our lines twice. The plumbing company is now saying that it is a smell from the poly on the vapor barrier.
My question:
Can the smell be coming from the hot water heater?
We are not on well water. Everything is brand new: lines, hot water heater, HVAC.  We basically live in a new house. The gas lines are copper and the water heater is propane.
I am at my wits end & checkbook end. I  would appreciate any and all help!

Since you said your gas lines are copper I would guess you have a gas water heater.
If your water heater is not properly vented AND has a sufficient source of fresh air this is probably the source of the problem.
What is happening? The most common problem is insufficient make up air. We know the gas water heater requires a vent and I have never run into a no vent problem.
The cause I have found quite a few times is not enough fresh air so the exhaust vent takes the air out but then the home goes slightly negative as far as pressure.
When this happens the room air is consumed and the exhaust gasses circulate in the air space leaving the foul odor you have when the water heater is running for a while.
To prove this open a window in the basement a bit if there is one or make sure there is a fresh air source to the basement to verify this would fix the problem.
To make a permanent fix a fresh air source should be ducted to the water heater area and in most areas this is required by code.
Give a fresh air source a try and it will probably solve your smell problem.


Is the fuse correct on my 3-phase circuit? Location: Central Europe, voltage between phases: 400V. Voltage between phases and ground / neutral: 230V. Frequency = 50 Hz.
When looking at an old 3 phase 1 ground socket with wiring diameter of 3mm2 I discovered that the safety fuse (old, separate fuse for each phase) used to secure this socket is rated at 40A. The cable is installed in a pipe going through insulated walls. Assuming the 3 phases are used to power a machine the maximum capacity per phase according to Wiring capacity is 20A.
Is this the wrong type of fuse?
Or is the capacity of the wires higher under symmetric load where only minimal current is dissipated through the neutral?
Edit:
Fuse used:

3mm2 is a very unusual wire size for that location.
Since many years the standard sizes are e.g. 1.5, 2.5, 4.0, 6.0, 10.0 mm2. Maybe the size is 4mm2?
But even for 4mm2, the maximal current would be 40A, but only if the cable is running in free air and only for 2 loaded wires, certainly not within a pipe and/or insulation and certainly not for a 3 phase cable (= maximal 3
wires under full load).
A pipe and insulation will reduce the maximal allowed current to 20 to 30 ampere, dependent on neighbouring cables/wires and the dimensions of the pipe and distance to the insulation.
--> Yes, this fuse/cable installation combination is not suited to protect against fire hazards or cable damages, it is not in line with the EU standards.
The Neutral wire is never loaded with more current than a single Phase. Exactly that is one of the important advantages of the 3 Phase power system. If only 1 Phase and Neutral is used, i.e. 230V, obviously both are loaded with 40A in this example of maximal unsymmetry. If all 3 Phases are used in a symmetric load of 3 x 40A, f.e. for a motor in a star configuration, the Neutral current is zero, since all 3 phase currents add to zero current. The Neutral can not be loaded with >40A current.
ABB has a good overview of wire installations and the maximal load.


Goodman GMH95 furnace won't ignite I've run into a problem with my Goodman GMH95 furnace not igniting...

Background: At the beginning of summer, the capacitors in my AC condenser outside caught fire. It roasted the wires in the condenser, shorted out the compressor and fried the control board in my furnace. I replaced the AC condenser and the control board in the furnace. The AC has been working great all summer.

Now we've had a few cooler nights and it (finally) occurred to me that I had not checked the heat. So I turned the thermostat up. Guess what? No heat. I noticed a char mark on the connector for the gas valve and replaced the gas valve yesterday. Still no heat.

Here's what happens:
1. I turn the thermostat up to call for heat.
2. The draft inducer fan starts.
3. The pressure switches both close (one on the blower box, one on the coil? cover).
4. The igniter starts glowing and glows for about 10 seconds.
5. After about 5 seconds, the gas valve receives 24V on the orange wire for about 3 seconds while the igniter is on. I do not hear any click or smell any gas from the gas valve.
6. The igniter turns off.
7. The blower runs for about 15 seconds longer.
8. The blower shuts off.
9. Repeat steps 2-8 two more times.

I checked the pressure switches by applying vacuum and monitoring the resistance across the sensors. Both close at very low vacuum. I can also hear both close when the draft inducer fan turns on.

I cleaned the flame sensor for good measure.

I'm wondering if I got a bad gas valve. It was an eBay purchase of a (supposedly) new part. I imagine it's possible I got a bad one.

What else should I check before I buy another gas valve?

If you are getting voltage to the meter but no gas it is either a bad gas valve or no gas. Check you have gas supply. If it were the pressure switches you would not trigger the igniter. If it were the flame proving system it would light and then go out after 2-3 seconds. If it were the circuit board you wouldn’t get 27 volts at the gas valve. No gas or very low volume or bad gas valve. I have seen where a clogged gas pipe would give me pressure but as soon as the gas valve opens the pressure drops to nothing, restricted line.


Will I be able to run a duct over the wall to a soffit vent for a bathroom fan? I have a small bathroom with exterior walls in an area of my home with a vaulted ceiling (and thus no attic access.) When I moved in, the exhaust fan was uselessly "exhausting" directly into a fiberglass batt.

I'm hesitant to cut a hole in my roof to exhaust the fan properly, but if I go a few more feet I think I can access the soffit area and place a vent there. What I'm not familiar with is whether or not I can expect some kind of obstruction between the roof joists over the exterior wall.

This is a rough sketch of what I intend to do - however, before I go yanking the existing insulation out from between my rafters to make room for the flex duct, can anyone tell me if this makes sense? Should I be able to snake a flex duct between the rafters and into the void between the soffit and overhang?

Welp, it worked out just fine! Still need to caulk it and paint it, but it installed easy and it's amazing the difference a properly vented bathroom makes.


What is this braided wire? The smooth one is coax. I'm asking about the braided ones.

They're power, running from a metal junction box in my basement ceiling up to an outlet just above the pictured floor boards.

It's an old house, with lots of knob and tube. The box where this originates is fed by EMT.

It is unusual for single conductor with cloth braid to be used except for feeder wiring like that. Cloth braid was common up to the 50’s  but normally there were 2 wires in the cable when run loose.  knob and tube also ran single insulated wires down walls but normally maintained separation of the conductors and was not allowed to wander like or to use the same hole through a wooden member .  so it may have been a diy job of old or a addition to the system,

many states did not have the strict rules we have today even though the national electric code was established pre 1900 it Was probably an addition. If both wires enter the metal box in the same hole that would be more evidence that it probably was a later modification.


Where can I find a Powerline Internet Adapter with DIN Rail Mounting? There are several products in the market to create a home LAN using the existing electrical wiring at home. In all of them the point of entry(or the emitter) is a device that is connected to a wall plug. What I'm trying to find is an emitter that can be mounted on the main electrical board, next to the circuit breakers.

EDIT

I found it!
Just search for DEVOLO DLAN DIN

EDIT

Something like this but not sure if it exactly waht you want.

The only way is going to be to hack them and do waht you want. I have not seen anything like this for DIN.. even though i thought of it so many times.. because it makes sense. It will have to be something like this.

Essentially you will need to put one of these(below) in that (above)..

But I did find this on Search Engine


Why does my kitchen faucet suddenly have too much water pressure? I have a single lever Kohler kitchen faucet. The water comes out with so much pressure that if I am trying to rinse anything it makes water spray everywhere.  The faucet has not always done this. Is there any way to make the water come out with less pressure other than to adjust the lever every time I turn it on?

Here are three different options:

Installing a more restrictive aerator on the faucet.
Installing ball valves on the incoming water lines.
Installing a water pressure regulator.

Since you said it hasn't always been like this, and it seems as though the faucet is the only thing you're having problems with, I would go with an aerator first.  The old one has perhaps fallen out.


Is a too-shallow foundation allowing excessive water into my dirt crawl space? I live in a local minimum for my neighborhood, and in fact my house is built on the banks of a stormwater drainage ditch. Most of the rainwater from the road is collected by stormwater drains and fed directly into the ditch via a pipe, but the water that falls directly on our own and our neighbors' yards still has to make its way around (or through) our house to get to the ditch.

The house was built in 1920 and originally had a limestone wall foundation, parts of which have been replaced over the years - mostly with CMUs on a poured footer.

At the lowest end of the yard is the entrance to our crawl space. It appears that the foundation wall that runs along the slope (perpendicular to the ditch) was replaced with CMUs at some point, but it has another interesting feature - a large L-shaped concrete pour:

My guess is that they temporarily supported the house on the smaller pour+embedded deck block you see immediately to the right while they poured this footer. In fact when we bought the house there were still some posts standing on those blocks, though they were loose and no longer acting as support.

During the wetter months (winter/spring), this area is quite muddy (though no standing pools of water usually). My theory is that the footer is too shallow, so water is migrating under it and wetting the basement. The fact that there is a tree root growing through that space seems to give further credit to this theory.

As you can see, inside the crawl space the terrain follows the natural slope of the yard. But on the outside, a retaining wall made of railroad ties holds a large amount of soil up against the outside of the foundation, rather than letting the yard slope down naturally towards the ditch at the bottom:

My thought is that the retained soil on the outside acts as a sponge, and then slowly releases this moisture into the crawl space. Would making the footer deeper help keep the water out? If so, what is the best way to do this? My current plan is to reinstall the temporary supports, excavate the soil from around and under most of the footer, add a rebar grid (or cages) and build a plywood form, and then pour concrete. The hope is that the footer will support itself during this process with the "leg" at the lower end, and the unexcavated soil at the upper end.

Or should I simply remove the railroad ties and excavate the retained soil on the outside of the house, restoring the natural grade of the yard? I have considered replacing it with a deck on posts in this case.

Water flows in the direction of least resistance.

Moisture is either coming up from below (a rising water table) or its coming from the surrounding ground water in the saturated soil, or both.

If it comes up from a rising water table, it will enter the crawl space from below.

If it comes from the surrounding ground water, it COULD enter the crawl space through the wall, especially if the EXTERIOR side of the foundation wall is not sealed properly, especially if your wood retaining wall is keeping dirt against the foundation wall.

Either way the moisture enters the crawl space and it will need to be collected AND disposed. NEVER install perf pipe around your house and under your footings. This can cause settlement. Removing undisturbed soil to install drainrock and a perf pipe, it will cause settlement.

I think the best way to collect it is on the exterior side of the foundation wall in drainrock and a perf pipe laid 6”-8” below the interior crawl space dirt, but no lower than the bottom of the footing.

To keep the subsurface water from seeping through the wall, I recommend installing a moisture barrier on the exterior side of the foundation wall and install a 2” thick plastic mesh on the wall to allow water to flow down to the perf pipe. (Water flows in the direction of least resistance. You want water to flow down the wall not lay against the wall.) If dirt is allowed to be backfilled against the wall, the dirt could hold the moisture giving it a chance to seep through the wall.

Once collected it needs to be disposed by extending a solid pipe over an embankment, to your drain ditch or in a collection well and pumped away.

This may be the most expensive method of solving the problem, but it’s sure to work.


How do I troubleshoot an electric furnace? I have a Coleman 3300-9051 electric furnace w/AC. The blower continually runs.

Where do I find a repair manual and/or what could be the problem.
How do I test it.

Couple possibilities I can think of:

Thermal switch in the furnace is broken, making it appear to be too hot, and the blower is running to cool it off.
Thermostat has the fan switch set to "on" instead of "auto"

Check the thermostat before trying to work on the furnace itself.


What did my hardwood installer do wrong here? Long story short, my installer didn't rack my beautiful reclaimed wood floor.  He had tons of light pieces grouped together.  I asked him to remove the light pieces and patch in the darker pieces I had ordered as extra.  They had already applied one layer of oil based poly when I asked him to do this.  They broke out the board, cut the groove off and put in the new board.  The repair looked great.  They sanded the board (they did not tape it off) and it appears they overlapped the sanding on the other boards.  They reapplied poly to the area.  Then they buffed the entire floor and applied another coat of poly.  It looked amazing.  I woke up this morning and now I have this on every single area where they patched the board.

There are also tiny half moon circular spins under the poly, is that the buffer they used when it hadn't dried? Is it the sander?

How do I give them good direction and get this fixed?

More images

From what I see...

There is "trash" in the finish
A patch, roughly in the center and running about 75% of the length, was either dry coated or missed all together

The floor needs to be screened ( buffed with a dull sanding screen ) then vacuumed, and finally tack ragged to get the finer particles that a vacuum WON'T get. I prefer to use a lambswool applicator when running urethane, but that's not the only viable method available.

Edit:
I just saw your additional pics. The issue is that the repaired piece of wood didn't have the same "amount" of finish as the surrounding flooring. Typically the first coat of finish soaks in to the material, which closes the grain and prevents any further penetration.

I cannot say as for the arcs you spoke of. But, there are 2 possibilities... 1) Buffer swirls as you suggested and 2) Edger marks

A typical round floor buffer uses 18" screens, so buffer swirls will be closer to that "size". Edger marks are made from the edger, which is the sander used against the walls. A proficient floor mechanic would also scrape the area that was sanded with the edger. There's way too much detail involved to explain here...

Long story short, the patch or patches should get a good brush coat of finish, to build back up to the finish level of the surrounding floor, then the entire floor screened and recoated.

One more thing, running finish at night is the WORST time of day for doing such. Using natural light is the ONLY way to avoid missed or dry spots. I say this because the wet finish pics seemed to be taken at night.


Sealing Dishwasher Door The rubber gasket sealing my dishwasher has a gap through which water sometimes escapes. I tried sealing it using caulk but most of it washed away. Is there another sealant I can use? I'm considering J-B Weld, but the label on it says it's unsafe to ingest. Is there a risk of it washing onto the dishes and making us sick? When I applied the caulk, it had been sitting in our cold garage. Do I need to warm up the caulk before applying it? Is it safe to use in the dishwasher, too?

Replacement of the gasket is the best solution
The catch is that (a) replacement gaskets tend to be relatively expensive and (b) gaskets can be tough to replace. Take a look at Appliance Parts Pros or a similar site and search for your dishwasher model # to see if a replacement gasket is readily available.


Electric static new problem Bought this house last year. Winter, no static. Two,
 weeks ago, in summer, touching kitchen light switches, doorknobs, now kitchen faucet gives me a static shock. Never happened before, now it's consistent. Electrician came out said light switches. It grounded, put little dangling wire inside box behind 2-3 switches. Still happening. Any BTW maybe not relevant but just before this started my Hvac system stopped working, AC guy checked breaker and the wire was loose. Tightened it up, AC worked fine again. Electrician put in a new breaker after that, just to be safe. Coincidence or related? Thanks!

Related.  Or at least, you shouldn't take the chance that it's not.

Turn the main breaker off to the entire house and see if it still happens.  That will be the final word on the subject of whether it is electrical related or not.  I suspect it is.

Other than that, don't test it.  Don't tease the dragon.  What feels like a minor pinprick when the rest of you is well insulated from anything metal, can become lethal current flow if you get between something hot and something grounded.

I would not be looking at breakers, I'd be looking at the grounds and neutrals.

A possible cause is the A/C guy misusing a ground as a neutral.  This can easily combine with another type of failure to put dangerous voltage on every ground in the house, i.e. Every switch cover plate, all metal conduit, dryer or stove chassis, even the circuit breaker panel itself.  The "other type of failure" might be the original problem.


Water heater pilot tube keeps getting condensation in it I have take line loose a couple times to blow it out but the condensation keeps coming back and causing the pilot light to go out...it does stay lit for a while after I clear the condensation...maybe a day or so

To me it sounds like you need a drip leg. A drip leg is usually installed after the local shutoff valve it is a simple T with a 6" or longer nipple that is capped pointing down. With a drip leg the moisture and some rust fall into the nipple, I have had a home that I had to clean the drip leg every year, others never needed cleaning 1 drop of water in your gas valve or pilot is enough to cause problems and a 6" drip leg is usually enough for most homes.


Do I need a floor drain for the water heater in my townhome? I’m looking at replacing an 11-year-old water heater as the hot water has become extremely discolored recently. I have flushed it twice in five years (I know, not enough) and could never remove the anode rod to check it, much less replace. A failed expansion tank also had to be replaced once it was determined that the pressure regulator had also failed (85 psi at the washing machine).
This is in a townhome on a slab that was built in 2000, and it does not appear to have any type of floor drain in the laundry room where the heater is located. The AC in a neighboring closet has a condensate pump. I have searched images of neighboring homes on real estate websites, and it doesn’t look like any of those homes have floor drains either. The current water heater was replaced around 2010 and - based on the (poorly) replaced flooring in the laundry room - probably experienced some type of leak. I want to replace this one before the same thing happens as the damages would be significant for myself and the neighbor.
However, I can’t determine what to do about a drain. I was already planning to replace the stand with one that is the proper height and add a drain pan beneath the heater. Is it required to add a drain to bring it up to code (Raleigh, NC)? How am I expected to do that when the home is on a slab? I have only come up with two options:

drain the pan to a small basin beneath the heater and pump to the laundry drain
add a PVC drain line behind the washer and dryer and gravity drain through the exterior wall

I don’t know if either option is allowed. Option 1 is the easiest, but there is also some risk if there is a power or pump failure, or if the pump can keep up with the leak. Still, it’s better than nothing. For Option 2, I’m not sure if any code would prevent adding a drain line on the inside of a wall running behind appliances. I’d also rather not drill a hole in a brick exterior wall where the utilities are located. It would also be next to the dryer vent and would drain onto a concrete slab and downhill into an adjoining neighbor’s backyard. Of course this is only for an emergency, but I don’t want to create a bigger problem in the process. How do homebuilders get away with stuff like this?
Does anyone see any other issues that I could potentially face with the heater replacement? I was considering going with corrugated flex lines on the inlet and outlet since it will be such a short transition to the PEX. I believe there is supposed to be 18” of line between the heater and PEX. The additional height from the stand will make things a bit tight. I know the expansion tank will have to be mounted to the wall if I go that route.

I am currently running a 1995 rheem gas water heater.  I've flushed it once.  I've never replaced the anode.
I installed a floodsafe water detector shutoff solonoid so that if a leak on the floor occurs the cold water supply is shutoff from the hot water tank.
I have a floor drain which goes to a plastic sump basin with pump that is embedded in the slab.
I put a piece of weatherstripping on the bottom of the interior side of the door so that water won't flood out of the utility room.  My walls are concrete board and the floor is concrete.
I am thinking about replacing mine but should it fail in the meantime it shouldn't be too terrible.
A reasonable fix for you might just be to drill a 4" hole through your slab into the drainage layer below the slab which should be gravel.  Add a floor drain cover and call it a day (unless you live in a high radon area - even then with a gas hwt you are likely pulling enough air out of that room ).  Add the solonoid shut off and choose waterproof materials for that room (turn it into a pseudo shower base) so the water doesn't migrate out of the room and can drain out through the hole you punched in your slab should it fail.


Test button on GFCI breaker does nothing? I've installed a 240V 50 A GFCI breaker for a to-be hot tub in a subpanel and just done a preliminary test. If I power it on, a non-contact voltage tester shows its load cable is live. However the TEST button on the breaker does nothing. I've pushed it fairly hard, I don't think its just stiff. And most test buttons I've used before are pretty sensitive.
I've not independently tested the two legs vs ground or neutral, but could do so.
I think there are two likely possibilities: the breaker is bad, or my wiring is bad. As far as I can tell the wiring is fine. (I've wired numerous 120 and 240 V breakers before.) Any other possibilities?
I'm looking for advice on diagnosing this. I assume that if the wiring is in fact OK, then the breaker must be defective?

FYI at the moment the breaker is OFF and the cable run to it is terminated at the other end, not attached to any equipment yet. So I think this is safe for the time being.
Actually, assuming I do have to replace the breaker, is this the best state to leave it in the meantime?  I could pull the breaker & cap off the wires in the subpanel but that would leave the front cover with a big hole.

Update - I did replace it with an identical breaker - no change to wiring - and the new one worked fine. This seemed conclusive that the breaker was bad.

Well, I would replace that device .
What you could also do is get hold of an electrician who has the PAT testing unit and get it properly tested. That can tell if it functions at all and if it does, if it is within the specified response time.


Is a grommet needed for romex into this metal junction box? I bought a 6-pack of these LED downlights. The metal junction box has knockout holes to run my 14-2 (with ground) wire. I was surprised that the J-box didn't come with grommets after knocking out the hole. Are they required in this application and where does one buy them? Should the grommets fit the romex cable tightly as it enters the box.

You don't use a grommet in this application but rather an appropriate clamp.  The correct type depends on what you are connecting here but the usual thing for non-metallic cable is something like this:

https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/7b668807-9db0-42c3-86b1-e9ec7481045c/svn/halex-conduit-fittings-20511-64_1000.jpg


Question on drywall patch in the ceiling I have a ceiling vent where the drywall is cut a bit larger than the actual vent.  I was looking for some advice on the repair.

The duct is mounted to a stud along the top (a piece of the stud is visible in the top right).  Should I cut a slightly larger square (around the vent cover) and add a piece of backing on the bottom side so I have something to screw the patch into on the top/bottom?  Or should I cut a larger section of drywall out so I can catch the stud on the bottom.  The vent cover itself is about 8 inches.

The best way to make the repair will be to cut a square hole that will catch half of a joist on the top and bottom.  Trying to make it work with just one joist isn't a good option for a repair like this that needs to help support a vent.

Carefully cut the vent square in the patch and float the seams as usual to make a finished patch.


Can hand-rub poly be poured (in drops) then spread? The last time I applied polyurethane, I chose a variety called "diamond something or other". It turned out that the diamond variety dries so quickly that if I apply a brush stroke one way and then simply move backwards along the same path, the first run would have already dried.

The net result was very disappointing. The surface (of wood shelves) came out very rough.

Because for this next project (a desk) the smoothness is of prime importance, I chose "hand-rub poly", after being told that it dries slowly.

The directions on the can say apply to cotton rag and then apply to wood. But the liquid is very thin, and very little makes it into the actual surface.

Is it safe to pour a few drops and then spread them with a cotton rag to leave the semblance of a coat? I'm working outside in the shade to minimize inhalation, and so the drying will be efficient from moving wind. What are your tricks to get a smooth surface from hand-rub poly?

I found the best results with wipe on poly come from lots of thinly applied coats, rather than slathering on a thick (poured) layer, so although you can pour it you probably won't get super smooth results from doing so.

As I understand it, the theory is thin coats of wipe on varnish dry much faster than a regular brush coat.  Much of the roughness in a finish comes from dust/airborne particles that land in the finish as it dries.  Less drying time means less time for those particles to settle, which results in a smoother finish.


Drain too high water pooling around it My husband installed a new Moen faucet.  The drain appears to be raised more than the old drain which is causing the water to stand around the drain. Is there any fix for this?

There are usually a few different rubber seals or gaskets that go on the drain pipe before installing it into the sink. Make sure to use the thinnest one so the drain will be low. If you did use the thinnest one and the drain is still too high, get some plumbers putty from your home store and form a bead of it and wrap that around the drain instead of the rubber seal and then install the drain pipe. You should be good to go. stay safe where ever you are.


LED security light adding a switch I have this LED solar security light. Now I want to put this in the back of a shipping container and I want to have a switch all the way in the front of the shipping container.
I have no previous knowledge on electrical wiring so if anyone could tell me what to do, I would greatly appreciate it. The current switch has an on mode, an off mode and a motion detection mode (which is not working by the way).
See pictures below
https://imgur.com/a/NGVmlSs
Thank you :)

You have two sets of wires to extend.

The solar panel wires, I assume you will want to have the cable exit at the door end of the container, so you don't have a potentially leaky hole in the side. (NEVER put a hole in the roof). That needs 2 wires.
The switch wires.  The switch has 3 modes: Off, always-on, and motion sensor.  Off needs no wires, but the others need 1 each plus a common. That's 3. Noting there only 2 wires, clearly it's using the light's metal chassis as a "common", much like is done in automobile wiring.

Look carefully at the solar panel wiring.  If one of its wires is also attached to the machine chassis, that'd be good news, it means that wire can be shared with the chassis-side of the switch, and we can do all this with common-as-dirt 14/3 UF cable.  Otherwise you'd need exotic 14/4, or dual 14/2.

This is a low voltage device, so there's no particular risk, other than destroying the device.

14/2 or 14/3 UF cable comes with a bare wire for safety earthing. Since we're not using it for dangerous mains voltage, we'll use it for common/chassis.

For the switch, I would not use a mains-voltage 3-way (2-way) switch. I would use an electronics store rocker or toggle SPDT switch, with "chassis" on common and each of the other two wires on the ends.

These devices will not like having a balky, inflexible #14 wire attached to them. Have the last 1' or so going to the device use a smaller wire like a #20 stranded wire, and tie it to the #14 with a wire nut, probably orange.


Terminal block kenmore dryer all wires connect. Have one lose bare wire where does it go Kenmore dryer terminal block replacement now I connect the two hots and n but I have a naked wire from the cord going to dryer or terminal block where does it go or do I even need it

Normally there is a green screw to the frame of the dryer for that wire called the equipment ground.


Can I lay stepping stones over a french drain? I am planning to install a french drain around my garage and make a walkway on top of it. I know the overall procedure for the french drain installation but am not sure how to make a walkway over it. I am thinking of putting stepping stones (e.g., flagstones) over the gravels which would surround the drainage pipes. But, I am concerned as to whether the stepping stones could be firmly stabilized on the gravels. I could not find any article over the web on this issue.

Admittedly guesswork, but...

I would expect that, over time, the flagstones would settle into the gravel and mostly stabilize themselves (outside of frost heave and similar issues). There still could be tripping hazards, though, just as there can be with bricks after frost heave and tree roots lift them...

Note that the french drain doesn't have to be exposed through the full 360-degree circuit of the house. If there's a short section where you have a walkway, that probably won't make much practical difference, as long as the whole thing is able to drain properly.


How to double up an existing single beam without disturbing the structure? I am not a carpenter, so please forgive me if I use some terminology wrong. I will do my best to describe my situation, and then my question.
I have an existing "lean-to" style porch roof that itself seems in good shape, but the structures that support it don't make much sense to me, so I am starting a project to upgrade\repair\reinforce the supports for the roof. On one side, the rafters are toe-nailed to a ledger board at the house. On the other, they are set atop a single 2x6 beam (the roof beam length is about 15'). The beam is supported by 4 columns\posts (this is where we get to the odd part). The posts consist of 4x4s that run from the footings (currently a cinder block buried in the ground) up to along side the beam and connected to the beam with lag bolts and nails. There is a 2x4 attached to the side of the post with lag bolts that sits below the beam but does not extend all the way down to the footings. All 4 columns are of this type of construction. I tried to make a simple sketch of what I am describing:

My plan to upgrade this entails digging new, proper footings ( I am in the north east US), replacing the columns with 6x6 posts, and adding an additional 2x6 to double up (laminate?) the existing beam. Like this:

So my question is about attaching the new 2x6 beam to the existing one. All the information I can find online says that the proper way to do this requires a fair amount of nails driven through the boards in both directions. My concern is that all that hammering against the beam in the direction away from the house may cause stress or start to pull the rafters away from the ledger (the roof is currently finished with asphalt shingles on top). Is there any type of screw that might be acceptable to use in this scenario? It seems like driving screws in might be a lot less stress on the structure. Or would a nail gun be better or worse in this case than a hammer?

How about  drilling holes and using bolts, washers and nuts? This will be structurally stronger than a million nails driven in from both sides.


How to block/seal a low pressure water pipe? Many posts to this forum are about how to clear pipes - this one is about how to block one!

I have a cold water header tank in my attic, there's a short length of pipe that feeds from this tank to the hot-water tank in the airing cupboard below. The pipe is (I think) steel and appears to be BSP threaded 1 inch pipe. The pipe is corroded, and attached to a brass gate-valve that's been seized for many years. The pipe then converts to 22mm copper pipe before getting to the hot-water tank.

I'd like to replace the seized gate valve, and since I'm comfortable plumbing with copper pipe the simplest option (for me) seems to be cut a new hole in the tank, fit a new 22mm compression tank-connector, and then re-plumb from there to the hot water tank.

The old tank connector appears to be steel and is very rusty, I'm also pretty sure that any attempt to remove it to re-use the hole would fail, and would probably damage the tank in the process.

Bearing this in mind, I'd like to cut-off the existing pipe 6 inches from the tank and simply block it up. What's the best way to do this? I've not worked with steel pipe and don't have access to threading equipment. Since the pressure at this point is equal to the height of water in the tank, it's doesn't need to be a very sophisticated solution. Is there a reasonably reliable of blocking such a pipe?

Thanks

Marine epoxy will plug a hole that size, I would plug the pipe an inch back fill or pack the hole with marine 2 part epoxy and fill the hole we did this for an emergency repair on a boat and it held the entire week we were offshore.


How many wraps of Teflon tape around nipples that need to point in one direction? I cannot find one source on the Internet that addresses what to do when you’ve wrapped the threads with Teflon, threaded the fitting on and threaded until it’s pointing in the right direction, and it’s not tight but it won’t go around again.
The most common example is shower head nipples but the same problem applies with drop fittings. I’ve included some examples.
I did the customary 3 wrap, and wasn’t tight enough, so I unwrapped and did 7 wrap. That worked on one, another took 10.
I mean, this is the way to do it, but why can’t I find anyone online admitting that this janky method is the solution. And if there is some other trick, please let me know cuz baby needs a new pair of shoes and I ain’t got time for this.

EDIT: this isn’t an answer, but it solved my problem. I replaced the elbow fittings with straight fittings and I used elbows in the pipes instead. This way I could crank down on the threaded fittings.

I was taught to never exceed 3 wraps of Teflon tape, because all it is there for is to lubricate the threads and fill in the microscopic gaps between the tapered threads. Too much tape and you interfere with the threads meshing to hold pressure, so you end u relying on the tape to do that, and it was not designed for that purpose. If you read the instructions that come with the tape, it probably says that.


Do I need to sand oil-based lacquer before painting? Getting ready to paint fireplace surround, which currently has oil-based lacquer that turned yellow.  Do I need to sand it before applying latex paint, or can I use a brand name cleaning product to dull the finish before painting?  Also, if I dull the finish do I also need to prime it?

It is always a good idea to sand before painting, though that is one way to do the prep work. De-glossers will prepare the surface too, although I have no experience in this type of prep. The name brand cleaner will not dull the surface, but it will help in the surface prep. If there is soot present, this is good to remove that, then sand or de-gloss.

If you chose to sand there are sanding blocks with a foam center that will help conform to the irregularities of the brick.
It is always good to prime a surface after sanding or deglazing, primer is formulated to grip the surface to hold the finish paint better. The primer can be tinted to the final color if there will be a big color change. That way the finish color has a better chance to cover in one coat.


Fixing a old wood wall 1961 house. Recently bought. The house appraiser told me that I had post-and-plank type walls and could get a fun "barn" look by removing the finish. So I did a test and stripped a part of a wall. The wood was covered with tar paper, wood laths, two layers of gypsum board, and white "brick" prefinished panels on top.

The thick wooden planks have shrunk, leaving gaps that are about a quarter inch wide. Through the gaps, you can see another layer of tar paper (behind that is insulation, and the exterior brick wall). The gaps seem to be a problem, insulation-wise. Even though I was told that one does not need to insulate the inside of a plank-and-post wall, the temperature inside the gaps is about 53°F, and 63°F in front of the wall (outside temperature today is 5°F). So there is an airdraft problem.

On the pictures you can also see that some of the planks have a broken corner  (like the vertical plank on the right) or are cracked.

So if I want to go with a bare wall / barn look, that leaves me with a few questions:

How do I fill the gaps?
How do I fix the broken/chipped planks?
Should I sand / apply some sort of protective finish to the wood?

1) I looked at ressources on how to fix gaps in old wooden floors and it seems that my best option for the gaps is cotton rope for the smaller gaps and oakum for the larger ones. Would that do the trick for a wall?

2) For the broken and cracked planks, I am thinking of filling the holes with a paste made with glue and sawdust from the wood laths that I removed. Another option is colored epoxy filler, or maybe just leave it like that.

3) For the finish, I really don't know if it is even necessary. It's a wall in a living room. But guests or children could get a splinter from touching the wall, so maybe a light sanding and some sort of protective finish would be better.

Thank you.

Addendum: the finished wall:
[

In my opinion, I would put the wall back as it was.
Part of the whole charm of the barn look is the roughness, textures, cracks etc., the things that sounds like you want to fix. Even if you could get an "upscale" barn look by doing what the questions surround, would severely change the look you have now.
Gluing cracks will change the color of the wood, it will run and drip. Mixing sawdust in the glue will leave a mess on the surface, it never goes in the gap clean, and will require sanding. The planks have a great patina. Patina (aged look) is a color that can only be achieved by time, and is highly sought after. It can be faked, but is expensive. Sanding this patina will remove the saw marks and the patina and pretty much render the wood to an almost new condition. IN doing that you would be better and simpler in some ways to just install new wood planks. Shiplap is a big trend now.

When the appraiser discerned the type of building you had, there was no way to know how cut up the paneling was or what condition it was behind the drywall. One could only hope it is in good shape, well enough to salvage. What I see is where a window may have been filled in or a repair made a long time ago, or perhaps the builder ran short of material, or changed their mind about having a window there. It happens all the time.


What is the best way to cut metal siding for soffit vents accurately? I need to add a bunch of soffit vents to my eves, and I have (decorative?) metal siding such as in the picture. I need to do this quickly in the next few weeks before winter. What's the best way to make these metal cuts accurately and screen the vent panels into the metal sheeting?

I think my question is mostly about tools and any techniques, but please alert me to any considerations or wisdom I may be overlooking.

If you're trying to cut in place, I'd personally go with drilling an initial hole, and then cutting the shape of the vent with a "sheet metal nibbler".

The nibbler will let you cut from one side, as there's a small bit that you insert into the hole, and sheers off a small roll of material (somewhere near 1/8", depending on the exact pair).  You can also get powered ones, but they're fairly pricy, and the weight might be annoying for overhead work.

You might want to check with local rental shops, to see what they have.  (the increased weight might be worthwhile as you won't have to hold your arms up as long)


Does a bathtub spout with a diverter have to be on the same side as the valve, or can I move it over to the side of the tub? I'm putting in a shower/tub unit and we want to have the tub spout on the side of the tub in the middle.  The valve unit will be in the usual place on the end of the tub, with the shower head above it.  The diverter is in the tub spout.  Will this work, or would it screw up the diverter if we put it on the side?

A normal tub diverter valve works because when the tub spout is open, it requires less force for the water to come out of the spout than it does for water to get pushed up to the shower head.  The water takes the path of least resistance.  When the tub spout diverter is closed, the water is naturally forced up the pipe to the shower head.

The reason the instructions say to only use one elbow and to limit the distance is to reduce the resistance of the water flowing out of the spout.  If the plumbing to the spout is too complex and provides too much resistance, you could have some water get pushed up to the shower head no matter what.

So, this plan might work, or there might just be too much resistance in the pipe snaking around the tub to the other side.  It's hard to say for sure.  If the valve is installed lower, I think you chances are better.  Also the tub spout pipe will have to go around the tub and not over it because water would certainly flow out of the head all the time if you did that.  Try to use only 3-4 fittings on the pipe - don't make any extra bends.

I looked around a little and found this forum post where a plumber used PEX pipe and three elbows even with the tub spout on the same side.  That was enough to make water dribble out of the shower head.  PEX could have made this problem worse because the fittings don't have a full 1/2" inside diameter so they restrict flow more than copper would.  Still, doesn't look good for your plan since you'd also have a minimum of 3 elbows (with PEX, 4 elbows using copper).


Can 250V mains damage my 100-240V devices? Until today, I thought the European electricity network was 230 ± 6%. I measured my supply as 250V, which surprised me as that's 6V above 244V.

I checked, and the specification is actually 230 +10% / -6% (so my supply is below the 253V maximum).

However, many of my devices (Laptop Charger, iMac, Phone charger, etc) have a range of 100-240V written on the transformer.

Is any damage to these devices possible?

You'll be fine

The voltage rating on mains devices and components is a nominal rating -- tolerances on the mains voltage need not be taken into account here, as it is understood by equipment designers and rating agencies that mains voltages vary slightly for a given nominal voltage.


Permeable pavers for patio? Currently we have a traditional deck off of the kitchen that needs the boards replaced. Rather than switching to composite decking, I was thinking of pulling the deck and putting in permeable pavers (Turfstone) with a much shortened deck stepdown (about 4' of deck as a step to the turfstone).

Has anyone used these in a patio setting (instead of a driveway setting)?
And, I live in Maine, meaning that I get snow that has to be shoveled. A deck is relatively smooth to remove snow from, but how is a permeable patio going to respond to being shoveled?

I'm in Minnesota (-30F to +95F), and plenty of folks here have paver patios. I have one, and I'm currently building a Z-brick walkway around my garage (they're overkill, but I got a mountain of them for almost nothing). They do move sometimes, but they tend to settle back in after frost is out.

Permeable pavers are typically only used to skirt maximum non-permeable surface restrictions. Unless you have a very permeable base soil they don't do much for drainage. I'd go with less expensive conventional products.

Shoveling isn't really a problem due to the chamfered edges of most pavers. You'll catch the occasional rogue edge, but you do with any hard surface. Plastic shovels glide better than metal.


Socket Tester all indicators light up I used the above GFCI/RCD (up to 250v) socket tester on the 240v black and red live wire of the US split phase ac power system. When I connect the ground, all indicator lights (3 red) got on indicating "Live/Grd Reverse, Missing GRD" although it is connected properly.

What is inside the socket tester? Does it have a live and neutral leg such that it should only be used for ac system with polarity? How about if you use it on the red and black 240v phase to phase? Why would all the indicators light become on (3 red lights)?

The following is the specs of it:

Specifications:
Brand Name: HABOTEST
Color: Black
Material: Flame Retardant ABS
Plug Type: US
Voltage: 48V-250V 45-65Hz
RCD Test: >30mA (EU/UK Plug)
RCD Working Voltage: 220V±20V
GFCI Test: >5mA (US Plug)
GFCI Working Voltage: 110V±20V
Voltage Measurement: 48V~250V / 45~65Hz

Accuracy: ±(2.0%+2)
Working Environment: 0°C ~ 40°C, 20% ~75%RH
Storage Environment: -10°C ~ 50°C, 20% ~80%RH
Safety Rating: EN61010-1,-2-030, EN61326-1,CAT II 300V
Item Size: 62 * 65 * 55mm / 2.4 * 2.6 * 2.2in
Item Weight: UK 64g/2.3oz, EU 59g/2.1oz, US 53g / 1.9oz
Package Size: 7.5 * 7.4 * 7.3cm / 3.0 * 2.9 * 2.9in
Package Weight: UK 90g/3.2oz, EU 86g/3.0oz, US 79g / 2.8oz

Magic 8-Ball
Harper calls these "magic 8-balls". If you don't really understand them, they are about as useful as a Magic 8-ball.
The original versions of these (and still available) have 3 lights connected across hot-neutral, hot-ground, neutral-ground. The newer testers - like yours - use a microprocessor and some fancy circuitry to simulate the 3 lights and provide additional information.
Wrong circuit!
While this particular device (and many others) can handle a wide range of voltage & frequency (just like a laptop power supply or many other things), it does require a particular combination of wires to work as designed:

Hot - called "Live" on this device, also called "Line"
Neutral
Ground

One key thing to remember is that the electrons moving around (usual metaphor for electricity, though the physicists argue about the details) do not "know" what is supposed to be Hot, Neutral or Ground. They just "go where they can, the fastest/easiest way that they can get there". That is why problems with "lost leg", "lost neutral", "ground fault", etc. can be so dangerous. But it is also why a tester like this is extremely limited in what it can tell you. It can sort of say something is "reversed", but only if everything else is normal.
You connected, TWO HOT WIRES and no neutral. So things won't work right, as you found out the hard way. Among other things, Neutral to Ground is 0V on a Hot/Neutral/Ground cable but you replaced Neutral with another Hot wire, so Hot -> "Neutral" is 240V instead of 120V (that's OK on this particular device) but "Neutral" -> Ground is 120V instead of 0V, which is not OK - and turns on an extra light.
How the lights are SUPPOSED to work

Light 1: Hot -> Neutral. Normally ON. Off if Hot or Neutral is open (because the light can't get power from an open circuit) or if Hot and Ground are reversed (because Ground and Neutral are normally bonded so no power flows between them)

Light 2: Hot -> Ground. Normally ON. Off if Hot or Ground is open (no power in an open circuit) or if Hot and Neutral are reversed (because then this is Ground and Neutral).

Light 3: Neutral -> Ground. Normally OFF. On if Hot and Ground are reversed (because then this is Neutral & Hot) or if Hot and Neutral are reversed (because then this is Hot & Ground).

So each particular light tells you about voltage between two wires. But it doesn't really tell you what is going on. The combination of all 3 lights gives a good indication of what is likely to be going on.
The Problems
There are a lot of possible problems. Let's start with one that is clearly a problem on this device: All lights on == Live/Ground Reverse, Missing Ground
Guess what? There is NO SUCH THING!
My trusty Klein RT105 doesn't have "all lights on" on the label? Why? It does not exist in any normal circuit - and if it exists, the magic 8-ball has no idea what it means!
It can't really mean Live/Ground Reverse AND Missing Ground - if the Ground is missing, it is not "reverse"! They really should not have put that label on there - better to just leave it as "all lights on should never happen, so we'll just pretend it can't happen - and except for someone trying to put in a 2nd hot instead of neutral, it doesn't happen.
All it really means is "enough voltage on all 3 pathways to turn on the lights". In your case, that is:

Light 1 - Hot 1 -> Hot 2 = 240V
Light 2 - Hot 1 -> Ground = 120V
Light 3 - Hot 2 -> Ground = 120V

There are additional possible problems, such as blinking or dim lights, which could mean all kinds of possible problems with your circuits.
The end result is that:

These devices are primarily useful on the circuits they are designed to test - Hot/Neutral/Ground.
If the display is anything other than "Correct", the lights are a suggestion but not a guarantee of what is/isn't correct in your circuit.

I mainly use these as a double-check. If everything seems OK and the tester shows the correct lights, I'm good to go. If something already seems "wrong", this kind of tester doesn't tell you much of anything. And if I am going to a new (to me) receptacle to check things out, then the tester gives me a very good first indication of correct/incorrect - but if it says incorrect then it is time to open things up and check everything methodically until I figure out the problem.


How deep should my grout removal go? In regrouting a bathroom, how deep should I go to remove the old grout?
Should I go all the way the depth of the tile or will stopping at some shorter depth be just as effective in letting the new grout adhere?

To get the best results you should remove down to a depth halfway so that the new grout can bind to the original grout and to the edges of the tile.  Removing too little will not last long since the new grout will separate.  I find the best way to remove the grout is to use a dremel with an attachment that will remove the grout.  see link to video.

Dremel Grout Removal


How to fill void under bathroom vanity before installing laminate flooring and legged vanity We are removing an old floor mounted vanity and wanting to install new laminate flooring throughout the bathroom.  We are planning to install a vanity with legs, not tight to the floor (one we can clean under).
We do not want to remove all of the old linoleum prior to installing the vinyl flooring. This leaves a void under the vanity of that depth. How do we fill the void where the old vanity was prior to installing the new laminate installation?

A few ideas to raise that area ~1/8":

Use a second layer of your flooring underlayment.
Cut cereal boxes to fit and staple in place.
Skim with a floor leveling product.
Purchase an inexpensive roll of vinyl flooring and cut it to fit. Staple it in place.


"Local Amendments" to the NEC - What is meant by this term? I recently encountered the term "Local Amendments" in responses written by Tester101 and Ed Beal.  I would like to know what they meant by this.

Building codes (including the NEC and many others covering a variety of subjects) are usually written by independent organizations who specialize in the subject.

Local laws are passed by governments. Since local politicians are generally not electricians / structural engineers / fire marshals etc, they "adopt" the 3rd party codes by requiring all local construction to comply with them. But sometimes for various reasons the government wants to make additional requirements or changes, e.g. to take into account local conditions, additional safety, historical reasons, etc. They can change the code in any way they want, maybe prohibiting something they feel is risky or allowing something that would normally be prohibited. Or maybe they just change the wording or definitions a bit to clarify or be consistent with other local laws.

In the USA, building codes are often selected by state government, although local cities and counties may have additional rules they require. Note that every state has their own building codes, which is why you must look up the rules for your specific location. Even states that adopt the NEC (which is most of them, but not all) may use different versions. E.g. here is the current NEC adoption, as of September 1 2015:

The changes themselves can be minor and pedantic or major. For an example, here is the Massachusetts electrical code. Note that it starts by saying the code is the 2014 National Electrical Code, with a number of changes.


Installing door in 2x6 wall (drywall only on 1 side) Renovating my basement and I have 3 doors to install. Planning to install 2 prehung doors in the first 2 locations (2x4 walls with drywall on both sides).

Not sure what to do about the 3rd. It will go in a 2x6 wall leading to a workshop that will remain unfinished (no drywall). I want the door to swing into this space. Is this a case where I need to purchase a slab door and do the framing myself?

I know you can install jamb extensions for a 2x6 wall. But if I go with the prehung, should I just fasten the casing to the unfinished studs in the workshop?

For #3, I'd buy a prehung door with a 6-1/2" jamb (normal for 2x6 construction) and set the jamb 1/2" proud into the workshop. This makes it easy to add drywall to the workshop in the future if desired. (And personally, I'd skip casing entirely since you're at bare studs in the workshop. If you had to have casing, I'd butt it against the jamb instead of overlap it.)

Comment with any questions...


Drilling into cinder block foundation My house has a block foundation and water issues, I have a company coming soon to install a perimeter drainage system w/ sump pump and he said he's going to install a mill sheet vapor barrier about 4" high from the step stone and drill weep holes.

I'm looking to put up foam board insulation afterwords and my question is if I drill holes into the blocks to attach the boards will water start coming out of the holes?  Would I be better off using an adhesive to attach the insulation? But will it adhere properly what with my foundation being cinder blocks?

Drilling weep holes in your foundation can create additional problems.

Water problems around the foundation can be caused by: 1) High watertable, or 2) surface water runoff.

1) If you have a high watertable, a perimeter drain is a must. (Depending on the size of the house, we may run a few drainlines under the house too.) If water is in the crawl space and the drainpipes are not deep enough to collect the water, then weep holes through the foundation wall MIGHT be appropriate.

2) If water is collecting around the perimeter of the foundation, weep holes are NOT recommended, because water will run into the crawl space.

Btw, cinder blocks have voids and can fill with water. Weep holes will allow the water to drain out, but should be installed through the outer shell (face) only. Installing a hole through the inner shell will allow the water in the cells to drain into the crawl space.


What is the most efficient way to dig a hole in a slope? I need to dig a rectangular box hole for a rainwater cistern. The dimensions are 4m x 3m x 2m (13ft x 10ft x 6ft). There is a slope of about 10 degrees, and the dirt will be used at a point of lower elevation. The soil is a mix of clay and residues of bricks.

Given the amount of soil that needs to be removed, I'm looking for the easiest way to excavate this much material. I have a wheelbarrow, shovels, and pickaxe to use for the task. Is there any way I can use the slope itself to make the task easier?

Rent a small excavator, perhaps including a person to operate it. A machine can do in hours what you would spend days (or weeks!) doing with two hands and one shovel.


Is a sealant needed in addition to caulking? I've read on some forums (not here) that on top of the caulking areas exposed to water (in this case, my kitchen sink), a sealant should be applied.

Is this standard procedure? If so, are there different types that I need to consider? Any particular suggestions (to a specific product) would be helpful too.

I have never heard of this recommendation. If you are caulking an area that will regularly be exposed to water (sink, shower, etc.) I use a silicone caulk.  Silicone caulk is 100% waterproof so there is no need to add any extra sort of sealer.


Removing attic fan thermostat - how to terminate 3-wire I recently had a new roof put on, and the installers pulled out the old attic fan, leaving the thermostat box. At the same time, I noticed my lightpost outside has stopped working... so I went up in the attic to check the state of the wiring. There is 3-wire feeding into the old attic fan thermostat. For safety purposes right now, I simply disconnected everything and capped them off, but I'm thinking I likely need to actually connect some wires together here to keep the 3 way going. Attached is a photo of what the wires looked like when I found them. I think there was a white wire from the old fan connecting to the white from the line but it simply got ripped out entirely.

My question is how do I proceed in connecting potentially 2 of these wires here. Knowing that isn't the safest thing to do, I didn't want to take any chances.

Everything on the left side of the box is wrong, this isn't a simple matter of what to connect together. I don't know if it was the roofers that messed it up of if it was wrong to start with. However all conductors must be inside sheathing [or conduit or a box] at all times, meaning that the cable sheathing must come slightly inside the box and the cable clamped at the entrance or within 6 inches of the entrance.
Second there aren't enough conductors on the left to do anything.
Keep them all disconnected and capped separately.

To solve the lamp issue start with the lamp fixture and switch, test the wires for voltage, if it has power change the bulb if no power trace it back until you find power. This requires a meter of course, no practical way around that.


Can I build a retaining wall along an existing fence? Our yard has a small slope to it, and we wanted to make it level. (Mainly so we can put a swing set in for our kids.) I was thinking I could build a small retaining wall and just fill it in, but would that pose a problem since it would be along an existing fence? I would rather not have to move that :)

I know it would essentially make the fence shorter on our side and I am OK with that, but are there any other reasons why it would be a bad idea.

If it isn't going to be a problem, what should be used as the wall? Are cement blocks OK?

Picture as requested. I played around with the best angle to show the slope. I was thinking about cement blocks lined up along the fence to even out the slope and back filling dirt to the top of those (18 inches at the deepest).

We had a raised garden built along our new fence joined on one side by a deck.
It's raised by about 1/2 a meter.

The way they did it was to use the fence as part of the retaining wall.
However, they did add some reinforcing.

In your case, the posts may be too wide apart and you may not like the idea of using the fence for this in case of rot.

I suggest putting new posts into the ground and putting treated 4x2 along them to form the retaining wall.  Put it as close to the fence as practical.
Then line the dirt side of the wall with a suitable plastic (the kind that's used for building ponds).  And fill up the ground to level it.

As for the area between the fence and the retaining wall, you could attach a run of 4x2 or 6x2 along the fence line to form a beam for which you can attach joists and lay some decking timber all the way along.  If you raise it up about the dirt level you could use it as seating if it's wide enough.

Remember to add weep holes to the wall to allow the water out.

Alternatively, as you suggest you could use cinder blocks or even just pour concrete.  Your choice may depend on price.


When did color-coding NM-B cable become standard in the US? Wandering through the electrical aisle of my local big-box store, I see that it is now basically impossible to buy NM-B cable that doesn't adhere to this color coding:

14 AWG = white jacket
12 AWG = yellow jacket
10 AWG = orange jacket

I understand the color coding, and it makes a lot of sense (I've got a mixture of 12 & 14AWG NM-B in my house and I really wish it was that easy to identify which was which when looking in a box). My question is two-fold:

When did this become standard (in the US)?
Is it an NEC requirement, or is it just a "standard" or "new tradition"?

Type NM-B cable first began to be manufactured with color-coded jackets in 2001 to aid in identification of the conductor size. The color code that was introduced, which continues to be used today is as follows:

14 AWG – White
12 AWG – Yellow
10 AWG – Orange
8 AWG – Black
6 AWG – Black

This color coding system was developed to aid those who sell, install, and inspect Type NM-B cable so that the cable size can easily be identified, to reduce mistakes resulting from the use of an incorrect conductor size.


How can I upgrade an electrical panel if there's not enough space around the panel to meet current codes? I have an older house (built in the 70s) with a 100A breaker panel installed in the corner of what is a converted garage.  The history passed down from the previous owner is the garage was converted some time in the 90s.

The breaker panel is full and I would like to upgrade to a 200A with more space.

The panel opens 90 degrees but has only 24 inches of wall space.  From what I've read the current code is 30 inches.

Will I be able to upgrade the panel in it's current location and be code compliant since it's an upgrade vice new install?  Or will I need a sub panel?

The wall space clearance requirement of 30" is from the floor to ceiling. And the panel does NOT have to be centered. Unless you have like a 6' ceiling or a lot of things like counter tops in the way etc, I don't see why this would be a problem.

The process of upgrading from 100A to 200A is not just a swap of your panel. It's a little complex and most definitely has to be permitted. It is doable yourself. In any case, it's good to understand the steps whether you do it yourself or hire an electrician:

Check with the utility company to see if your "drop" (wire form the pole to the house) is capable of 200A. Normally, a utility company will have to upgrade this themselves. But sometimes you'll have to pay.
If you have a separate meter box with main breaker and the separate panel in the house, the line between the two will likely need to be upgraded to 200A line.
You will need a 200A new panel in the house and all new breakers that are up to code.
You will need a new meter box and 200A compliant meter from the power company.
You will likely have to upgraded / bring other things into compliance to pass inspection. Such as, the ground wires. Many areas require you ground to your main water supply coming thru the foundation along with the two grounding rods. You may need to install special breakers if your bathrooms aren't GFI'd for those circuits.

Basically, you'll have to pull the permits. Have the power company pull the meter which will shut off the power. Install all the new equipment with the power off and then get it inspected. In my area of the country you can get what's called an "open circuit permit." Basically, you can hotwire your new 200A meter box so that you can get your power back on while you wait for an inspection and for the power company to install the new meter (they generally won't install it until you've passed inspection). This just means you're running power for a while with no meter and being charged an "average" rate.

I am pretty handy and wouldn't tackle this myself. Though, there are some good youtube walkthrus and it can be done. If you price it out, keep in mind the prices will vary wildly. I had my house done for $3000 and that included eliminated a remote panel in my basement and a few other upgrades aside from the 100A > 200A change. But, i got several other quotes and they were: $4800, $12000 and $6700. Like I said, get lots of quotes! Figure on at least $3000.


Can paneling and wallpaper be textured with drywall mud? We have a basement space with paneling on lower half of wall and wallpaper on upper half - we don't want to spend the time stripping the wallpaper, and don't want to spend the money replacing walls with new drywall.  Can paneling and wallpaper be textured with drywall mud prior to painting?  If so, what are the appropriate products to use for preparation?

The previous owners of my house did this. Drywall compound will stick very well to wood paneling (please resist the urge to get "creative" with the texture...). Wallpaper, less so, and even if it sticks well, if the wallpaper ever started peeling off, it would take the top part of the wall with it. If you're going down this route, I would highly recommend scraping off the wallpaper first, and only then covering the whole wall with a skim coat of drywall mud.

Or, you could just cover the whole mess up with 1/4" drywall. If you're prepared to do a skim coat over the entire wall and can acquiesce to the necessity of scraping off the wallpaper, simply putting up new quarter inch thick board might be easier and cheaper than going down that route.


Self levelling compond on an oily floor? I've just moved in to a new house and I want to level the floor in the garage but it's covered in oil. A quick Google throws up a blog post and product by Polycote but nothing else specifically mentions oily floors.

Is Polycote the only product? Do I need a specail primer to lay over oil? What else do I need to know?

If you want a well-performing coating, you must do surface preparation according to instructions.

There aren't really any shortcuts around that. Oil is a contaminant that will fail almost any coating, and most definitely a water-based coating.

If you're new to surface preparation, I'm sorry if it throws a monkeywrench into what you hoped would be an easy project.  I realize the temptation to shortcut. But it will give a very unsatisfactory result, and an even bigger mess to clean up.


Why is this ceiling joist cut off on both ends? Why would this ceiling joist be cut short on both ends, and a flat board be put in the place of the part of the joist that was cut off and removed? Is this a problem I need to fix? If so, how?

It looks like it is on top of a wall so it is being used as a nailer. I believe that is why.


Plumbers Silicone Grease vs Dielectric Grease Can I use plumbers silicone grease as a substitute for silicone dielectric grease? They both appear to contain dimethypolysiloxane and silicone dioxide.
Is this the same product given different application names, one for plumbing, one for waterproofing electrical connections?

The plumbers grease is food grade, so maybe that's the distinction

The DANCO Waterproof Grease is designed for use as a lubricant for faucets and valve stems. It is NSF 61 approved and meets or exceeds the requirements of FDA regulation 21. This grease works well in temperatures between 0 - 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
https://www.jencowholesale.com/products/danco-waterproof-grease-lubricant-1oz-80360

And looking into NSF 61

If you manufacture, sell or distribute water treatment or distribution products in North America, your products are required to comply with NSF/ANSI/CAN 61: Drinking Water System Components – Health Effects by most governmental agencies that regulate drinking water supplies
https://www.nsf.org/services/by-industry/water-wastewater/municipal-water-treatment/nsf-ansi-can-standard-61

Given the above it's probably not a good idea to use dielectric grease where plumbers grease is called for, but going the other-way I'm curious if its suitable.

If in a car or boat it’s probably fine but residential electrical anything you use needs to be listed. On my boat I fill but splices with RTV (silicone for mst people) this keeps the salt air out of the splice and they last as long as the wire vs nothing in the connection and they are corroded in 2-3 years.


How do I remove stuck (melted?) foam from under carpet on hardwood floor? We just bought a house with lovely bright pink carpeting over hardwood floors, and tore it all up.  The foam underneath was multi-colored, and the black spots appear to have melted to the floor.

It's hard to see in the pictures, but those are actual little lumps of sticky foam (melted? it's 90°F here).

So, what's the easiest way to remove these from the floor without ruining it?  I've read online suggestions of hardwood floor cleaner, Goo-Gone, soapy water, and even dry ice.

Probably you are hoping to spray some Miracle Vanishing Formula™, instantly wipe, and be good as new.  Maybe it is possible to do that, or use a putty knife carefully.

In the end, you will probably have added scratches, and there are probably defects and worn portions screaming for refinishing.  So why not skip to the (seemingly) inevitable conclusion: maybe now is a great time to refinish the whole floor.

Rent a floor sander, either a drum sander, floor stripper, or square buff sander and take off the foam, varnish, and thin layer of the wood.

Usually, it is best to remove floor edge molding to get all the way to the walls, but if the molding is expensive or hard to remove, it is not unreasonable to do a best effort with the edge sander (above right) or an orbital with a shield.

Then add floor finish, sand, buff, and refinish again.  It is a lot of work and has to be spread out over at least three days with no use of the room, but it can really revive an iffy room and make it one you can be proud of.


Electrical Wiring for out-building Wanting to run power to my storage building. The building is about 100' from the power pole and main breaker box. I am using 10-2 wire on a 30 amp breaker to get power from the box to the building, and then 12-2 wire to wire up the outlets and light. Can 12-2 wire be connected to the 10-2 wire in a junction box?

No, the 30A breaker is not allowed to protect 12-2 [see NEC 240.6 (D)]. One option is to swap out the 30 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker. Then you would be okay as it sounds like you only want to run some lights and 110 receptacles. The larger wire is good for 30 amps, but you have to protect the 12AWG with a 20. On the bright side, it is very helpful to have that larger 10-2 wire to cover the voltage drop that would otherwise occur over the distance you mentioned. Another option would be to set a fuse box at the end of the 10-2 cable there in the storage building with a 20 amp fuse to protect your branch circuit. That, however, means the 30 amp breaker and wire converts from being a branch circuit to a feeder and you'll have to drive a ground rod at the outbuilding [NEC 250.32(A) with respect to the exception as well].


Can one get instant hot water from home faucets without a heater? My house has a solar and electric heating mechanism which provides hot water year-round.

However, when opening the hot water in the kitchen and toilet faucets, I get cold water which gradually get warmer and warmer, till they are actually hot. The process can take between 5 seconds to two minutes, depending on the house temperature. This is annoying and wastes precious water.

I once heard that there is a way to get instant hot water without a heater, by circulating water between the cold water line and the hot water line, but I could not find any details online.

Is there a way to get the hot water flowing instantly from the home faucets, without a faucet heater?

No method is "instant" but there are long-used and accepted methods of recirculating your hot water piping system back to your water-heating appliance, which keeps the line at least warm (or hot) depending on the chosen method. Another alternative is "point of use" water heaters at each user location, this is common in some european countries and is gaining traction in the U.S. as well.
You should know that these methods may not be "wasting precious water", but will use more of some other energy or resource, you don't get something for nothing.
This thermosiphon system I have in use at my home, relatively quick hot water and higher natural gas bill:

This method is similar to piping arrangement of the thermosiphon system, but utilizing a pump. Very quick hot water, higher natural gas and electric bill:

This system uses a proprietary crossover valve to create a recirc system, I have no experience with this and the arrangement seems dubious to me:

Then there are the "point of use" units. The additional cost of the units and the resources required to manufacture them would likely offset any environmental gain by not wasting water, but they get hot quick.


What can I do about out of square rough opening for new windows? I am building a new patio/sunroom, and I have framed up a small shear wall, along with openings for 2 new 4x6 windows. As I tried to install the windows today, I realize that the openings are out of square. One opening is not allowing the top of the window to sit into the opening by 1/8 inch, and I don't have enough slack on the other side to bring it up.

The other opening next to it, is out of square too far to one side. So I will need to put in more than shims to make it attach.

Any practical suggestions?

Rough openings are exactly as they are called, rough. Yours sounds extra rough though. All rough openings are made to have space to add shims, sometimes the rough openings, because of conditions, can only take shims on one side or the other.

As a rule of thumb I usually do not use no more than 2 shims on a side. If the rough opening (RO) has need for more, I usually add a piece of plywood to bring the opening down where 2 shims will work on a given side. There is no rule that says the plywood has to be the full length of the opening. I also rip my plywood filler 1/4" narrower than the RO material. Dimensional lumber shrinks, and this smaller dimension keeps the plywood from giving you trouble later on.

Edit 12-31-13 I need to clarify the shim statement. The 2 shims I refer to is, per placement. I use what is called undercoursing shingles used in roofing. They need to be made narrower, whether split, razor knifed, or table sawn. You get a lot for the money. The ones in the little packs aren't even uniform in their taper. There will obviously be a number of placements per side, depending on how large any given item is to be fastened.

On the opening that is too small at the top, if it is a non bearing wall, you may be able to remove the jack stud and replace it with thinner material. If it is a bearing wall, a picture would be handy to see what the conditions are. It may be as simple as using a chisel to trim the little you need to get the window in. It may only need a good smack with the hammer to shift the framing enough to get the window in. A couple well placed 12D-16D toenails may help too. Give it a whack, literally.

I can't determine anymore to do without seeing the conditions. Bearing, non bearing, jack studs, common studs etc...

Also check the ends of the wall that the windows are in, the wall may have racked, which in turn will make your ROs out of square.


Can I connect two condensate pumps to the same drain line using a T connector? We have a condensate pump for the furnace that connects via 3/8" tubing and a U-bend into the main sewer line.  Been working fine for 20+ years.

We are now getting a new water heater and it requires a condensate drain too.  I have a pump for it and will need to also connect the pump output to the sewer drain.  Can I simply T using a 3/8" barbed T connector into the same drain ingress that the furnace pumps to?

If not, what is the correct way to drain it?

Thanks!

Image shows the current condensate pump line connected to the main drain line

.

The location you suggest is going to be the best suited. The U-bend is effectively a vapor/odor trap to prevent back-smell from getting through the tubing into your household. Any other location would require that you create a new U-bend to prevent those gases from returning via the new drain line. One could expect odors from one drain line returning via the other, but there's nothing to prevent that with the existing line running solo, so that would mean you don't have odors from the condensate. Ensure that the flexible tubing will not kink when connected to the T fitting and you're good to go.


Wired to Wireless Doorbell I am looking at replacing my doorbell (original to the house, circa 1978) with something more modern looking. Now, the problem I have is that most of the modern doorbells are wireless. Mine is wired...and I can't find any information about terminating the power to the doorbell and ideally burying it in the wall to be forgotten about. Is this possible? Or if it isn't what are feasible, ethical and non-burn my house down options?

Don‘t tear the wires out

Some newer doorbells are going wireless.  But this is not a universal trend. Better doorbells are actually wired, because they do things that take power.  They are lighted (like, the button glows), they have cameras or WiFi, motion sensors,  microphones, speakers, etc.  Those things are not possible on battery.

Also, the wireless doorbells I have seen are not well built, and don't last.  I would expect quality ones to work both wired or wireless.

It would be silly to, a few years later, pay an electrician to re-run the wires... Or have to forego a nice doorbell because of no wires.

In other words, I think "wireless" is a fad.

I would simply disconnect the wires at both ends without cutting or damaging them.  The other end will be the chime, and it's quite likely the transformer is near that.   Sometimes, doorbells coattail on the furnace/thermostat transformer.