What debuzzing coil should I use to get rid of lamp hum? I have two lamps which use these big 300W bulbs that I am dimming with Insteon LampLink modules.  They buzz quite a bit, and I previously asked a question about reducing the buzz which led me to switch to these large, rough service bulbs.  However, the buzz is even louder now!

I've read (here and here and elsewhere) that I can wire a Lamp Debuzzing Coil (LDC) in series with the load (on the hot wire between the lamp and the dimmer) in order to smooth the onset of current during the switching (i.e.: waveform mutilation) and reduce the hum.

Will this work?

What product should I use? Is there something suitable at Digikey?

Debuzzing coils seem to start at 11 millihenries (See this example) -- which is only about 4 ohms of inductive reactance at 60 hertz.

For 300W bulbs, you want an inductor that can handle at least 3 amps, the higher the inductance the better.  Beware, also, of insulation quality and heat tolerance.

I show that Digikey carries some possible candidates (none in stock).  The Hammond Manufacturing, 159ZG is probably your best bang for the buck. Note that it's designed as a DC choke so it might be louder and warmer than a purpose-built LDC, like this one at Amazon.  Each 300W bulb needs it's own coil.

Note that LDC's can sometimes buzz as badly as the lamp, but you can relocate LDC noise easier.

Since you mention Digikey, there is another option to stop the buzzing available to someone who knows what they are doing.  You can use a rectifier bridge (Vishay GBPC3502-E4/51 or better) between the dimmer and the lamp.  This works by doubling the frequency that the lamp sees and halving the amplitude swings.

A rectifier is much cheaper, makes no noise of its own, and increases incandescent bulb life.

I won't provide any more details because, if you don't already know how to install this, you could get somebody hurt.  Just be sure any rectifier is mounted in a grounded metal box.

Update:
The OP tried a straight rectifier and, in this case it didn't work.  But, the good news about the rectifier approach is that it's easy to change it to filtered DC.  Filter the DC enough and nothing will buzz.

Use a 10uH inductor, anything more greatly increases the price without affecting performance much.
For the capacitor, you need about 200µF to start getting good filtering with 60Hz and a 300 watt load.

Here's the effects on the voltage, to the lamp, for three capacitor values. Note that the inductor is still required to deal with all the spikes, and harmonics, a dimmer induces...

Reference this simulation (crude but free!).

We can see that by 600µF, the power is smooth enough that buzzing should be eliminated.
Here's an 820µF cap that should work nicely, cost about $4. (Just in case, monitor its temperature carefully for the first few hours of operation.)


Have I got Rising Damp or a leak? Can anybody advise me?

Walking into the property you can feel the dampness in the air. The kitchen and bathroom run along the front of the house on the ground floor.  There is a smell coming from the kitchen that may be damp related but no evidence of staining or condensation.  In the bathroom there is a staining on the wall behind the toilet rising from the floor and lots of condensation on the cistern and a contant puddle from the dripping of the condensation.

I don't know if I need a plumber or a damp surveyor?  Any signs I should look for?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

If this is a fairly sudden change or it's very localised then it could indicate a leak or overflowing gutter etc.

If it's always been this way, the problem is more widespread or the change has been very gradual then it's more likely to be damp. Are any areas of the house below ground level? Or has the ground level been built up along that wall? The cure could be as simple as digging some soil away from the walls, to make sure that the existing damp proof course hasn't been bridged. This will stop any more moisture getting in and allow the rooms to dry out.

If none of these simple remedies work, I'd call in at least two professionals to give quotes. If they give wildly different possible causes then get a third. Fixing damp can be expensive and if you get it wrong and it doesn't actually cure the problem.


Daisy chain or dedicated outlets in wiring my RV? What will happen if I dedicate each outlet to its own breaker in an RV??
I thought I was doing it the right way and may have cost myself a lot of extra money and put my safety on the line. I already have plastic and insulation up... do I have to take down and ponytail my outlets?

If each outlet is on its own breaker then you have probably used more cable compared to having two or more on a circuit, as well as paid for a few extra breakers.

What you have not done is compromised your safety.

This way if any one outlet "sees" or detects a fault then the other outlets will continue - unless the inverter shuts down.


Too much load running through GFCI? I'm installing a circuit for two 12-amp loads that will plug into separate 15-amp outlets. These will be the only loads on a circuit with a 30 amp breaker. If the first outlet is a 15 amp GFCI and the second outlet is wired in line downstream with the GFCI and the two devices operate simultaneously, will this put too much load on the GFCI?

You can't do that to begin with

You can't put 15A receptacles on a 30A circuit in the first place -- NEC 210.21(B)(3) says no to that plan, and for good reason.

So, rethink your plan (this'd work fine and dandy with a 15A MWBC instead).


Is my propane company lying to me? I had my propane company come to install a Tankless water heater & dryer. They changed the regulator at the tanks but didn't get a perfect flare so that junction had a very small leak. 2 months later I noticed that I had used 70% of my propane.  I complained to the supplier and was told that only Vapor was leaking and that it would not account for the fuel loss. This sounds like pure BS to me.  Is there any reason that I should believe them????

The other factors involved are: This is a summer rental home so the home was vacant for the 2 months in question.
The propane furnace is only used for emergency heat  when the heat pump can't keep up.  The first cold snap we had the temperature dropped to 35 on the first floor.
My HVAC guy checked it out and found that my furnace was dead and not capable of burning any propane.

Call the firefighters telling them that you smell gas, then if there are issues. If FF will find an issue, you'll have the right to ask your company for a fix.

Anyway: gas is a bad beast, so call FF just for your own safety.


Primer for my drywall project I do not have enough in my pail to finish my project. Can I add another brand of primer to it that I have on hand?

I think the best bet is to use up the remaining primer in the pail by applying it to the drywall. Then start with the new pail applying on the remaining drywall.

Even better would be to let the residual area dry before coming with an overlapping coat of the new primer.

Some paints would mix just fine whilst others may not. So why take the chance when the solution is simple.


Sistered roof beams in garage pulling away from house About 3 months ago we had some basement repairs done that included correcting a dip in the center of the house with 3 support columns that raised the house back to level (jacked up by 1.5 inches).
Last week we heard a loud crack from the garage and discovered that 3 sistered ceiling joists that are between the house and garage have gone from being tightly screwed together to being separated by about an inch.  The one nearest the house is pulling towards the house and the other two remain mostly straight. Also the joist hanger that connects the house joists to these sistered beams has fully pulled out on one side.  I'm trying to determine if this is just a minor part of the house readjusting or a an issue that needs addressing quickly.  A structural engineer who we originally consulted declined to visit the house as he said it didn't sound like a major issue, but I remain concerned and would welcome suggestions from others who have had their houses raised.
House on left, so joist hanger that popped is connected to the joist skewed towards the house.

House on left, garage right.

Reverse angle (house on right), the other end of the joists are not moving apart as much

House on left closer to the wall where there's minor cracking at the wall.

Your roof seems going through some movement, the reason, or the reasons, can't be pinpointed through a few pictures. You shall go back to the original consultant engineer, who I assume was overseeing and responsible for the jacking operation occurred a short while ago. The structure may not under immediate threat of collapsing, but it is prudent to find out why (including potential hidden problems), and make proper decision from there, on whether immediate repair is required, or not.
I would insist the engineer to have a visit, or issue a statement that there is no "big problem". I think he would respond differently then :) Send him the invitation in writing too.
If the engineer still refuses to visit, have a second opinion from another qualified engineer. I'll report the conduct to his licensing board, or local building official, if any problems is being identified.


Apartment's Hallway Lights Controlled By My Unit's Circuit Breaker I manually flipped a breaker before doing work in my bathroom and noticed that the apartment hallway light is controlled by my unit's circuit breaker. Does this mean that I get billed for the hallway light usage? Are electric meters and breakers always linked?

Yes, a lamp is on one circuit.  A circuit is powered by one circuit breaker (hopefully!!)  In North American practice (and most others), a circuit breaker sits in a service panel.   Any service panel is fed by only one electric meter, because of billing and safety/Code*.

Modern building and landlord codes require either a) a separate meter for the Commons Areas separate from any tenant meters, b) everything on one meter and the landlord pays the electricity, or c) the landlord uses sub-metering to divide the complex as in a).  However, these are fairly recent Code changes, and old buildings are grandfathered (do not need to be upgraded simply because Code changes).

However, this may not mean you're paying for the hall light.  Lights which are on at certain specific times use a known amount of power.  For instance, look at any town's street lights.  They do not have meters. Nor does the city have its own power distribution system; they are simply clipped onto the utility's 120/240V/277V/480V distribution.  How are they billed, then?  Easy: it's known how much energy the light fixture draws, and most parts of the world, night averages 12 hours a day.

So in similar vein, you could compute the lights' draw and ask the landlord for a rent concession for that amount; however most likely, he'll tell you that's already been done and is already factored into the rent.  So, there you are.

* If someone really, really, really wanted to power a panel from 2 meters, one could use a generator-style interlock to isolate them but allow the meter to power from one or the other.  It would be sheer madness to wire it to draw from 2 meters at once.


How to I apply a 'standard clearcoat 30 sheen' to some unfinished hard maple I have some hard maple stair tread which according to the manufacturer has a 'standard clearcoat 30 sheen'.

I also have the stair risers, also hard maple, but that are unfinished. I wish to apply an identical 'standard clearcoat 30 sheen'.

I have no idea what to get or how to go about this -

What finish do I buy at the hardware store?
What type of brush should I use.
Before applying the finish, what type of nail hole filler should I use?
Is there any other prep necessary?

EDIT:

Since it was requested, here is the part - with options: hard maple and clear finish

I would not get your hopes up of getting an exact match.

According to the specifications on their site for that part:

  We finish all our tread materials (anything you’ll step on) with a Conversion Varnish. This is the type of finish used in the hardwood flooring industry, it’s strong and designed to take lots of abuse. It’s nearly impossible for a homeowner to achieve this level of quality, because conversion varnishes must be sprayed on, and they are only sold at specialty stores.

Looking around online, there are several conversion varnishes available (e.g., General Finishes), but finding them may be a bit difficult. General Finishes lists it as being sold at Rockler, Woodcraft, and other woodworking stores, but it does not show up on those websites. I doubt they'd have them in-store if they're not available online. Varnishes from other manufactures may be more available, but you may have to visit a specialty painting / finishing store (i.e., not the blue or orange big box).

If you are able to find the conversion varnish, you will need some spraying equipment, like an HVLP system, as well as a catalyst for the varnish. The "30 sheen" is a satin finish.

On the Product Q&A for the stair, they say:

  You can order a finish touchup kit with matching stain & clear finish spray can. This is currently not available on our website, but can be ordered over the phone.

in response to a question about filling nail holes. You may be able to get those cans, but I'm not sure they would be appropriate for anything more than touchup work. You can certainly call them to be certain.

You could use another type of clear finish, like a lacquer or wiping varnish. Those won't have the durability that conversion varnishes have (probably not an issue for stair risers), and there may be differences in the look of the finished product. Given that you're doing it yourself, though, you should expect differences in look even if you do use a conversion varnish. If you go this route, finish selection might be better asked at the woodworking stack.

You could also take them to a professional and ask if they could do it.


Can I draw power from nearby recessed lighting for pendant lights? I want to add two pendant lights above my island where I have a bunch of recessed lighting. Can I draw power from them in order to power the chandeliers?

I'm considering an Insteon solution in order to control the two separately, but that's another matter.

You'd have to calculate the load of the circuit to determine if you have enough capacity.

Volts x Amps = Watts

So if you are in the US, you probably have a 15 amp circuit which should only be loaded up to 12 amps.  Now go add up everything else on that circuit. Lets say you have 10 pot lights at 50watts each.

120v x Yamps = 500watts

= 4.1amps

Now lets say your two lights are 100W each, that's another 1.67 amps (200W/120V), so 5.7 amps total being drawn which means you would be able to add these without overloading the circuit.

If the circuit was already approaching 12amps, you would not have enough capacity and would need to run a new circuit.


What is the difference between swage fittings and compression fittings? I'm having problems with seeing the difference between these two types of fittings that are used to connect metal/plastic tubing. How can you spot the difference?

Part of the confusion is 'compression' is sometimes applied to fitting types that are not truly compression type. The term should only be applied to fittings where the compressive force is is applied by screw threads via part of the fitting itself as opposed to compressive force being applied by external tools.

In this compression fitting, via the threads seen on the right of the left hand piece and inside the right hand piece, the tapered ring on the copper tube is compressed, squeezing the tube tightly such that leakage is not possible. Plastic tube variants have an additional insert piece that fits in the end of the tube so it does not collapse under the compressive force.
This is an example of a crimp fitting. The ring is slipped loosely over the tube before pushing the tube onto the barbed fitting.

An external tool is used to apply the compressive force to the crimp ring. The material properties of the crimp ring are plastic, so that when the tool is removed, the ring continues to apply significant compressive force on the tube. Note that this tool is carried in the field to facilitate on-site assembly of piping systems.
A swage fitting is yet another type. It is similar to a crimp fitting in that an external tool is used to apply pressure and a sleeve maintains the pressure after the tools is removed.

The major difference is the compressive tool applies much much more force to the sleeve than a crimp tool. A swage tool is typically not very portable and not used in the field. Rather, pipes are pre-fabricated in a shop with a heavy duty hydraulic machine. The types of fittings swaged to pipes typically allow field assembly using common mechanic's tools.


Can I touch the metal frame or do I need to ground it? I live in Eu and I connected the blue - neutral and the brown - hot to the light jack. There is no third ground wire in the cable and i am afraid to touch the black steel frame - is it dangerous, should I ground it or is it not necessary?

Please help

Edit and update:

I added new photos

I connected the blue neutral wire to the T210 and the brown wire to the OE50(or something like that) There is no label except class 1 insulation symbol on the light bulb socket and again class 1 on the electric cable and some others which I don't know what they mean.

No double insulation symbol so I guess I need to ground or buy a cable with ground wiring.

Here are the photos.

Update 2 and new related question.

I found out some celing lamp was wired as seen in photo. It is same level 1 insulation and the ground is not connected to nothing. Was that done wrong?
Should I turn off electricity at the fuse box as precatution and connect green/yellow - ground wire to that steel bolt, would that ground it?

It's class 1.

  With Class 1 appliances, the user is protected by a combination of basic insulation and the provision of an earth connection, thus providing two levels of protection. When PAT Testing Class 1 appliances, Earth Continuity and Insulation Resistance tests are carried out.
  (source)

It needs a ground connection on the metalwork. There should be a grounding screw there somewhere.


Is it acceptable to frame and drywall just one exterior wall in a basement? Unique question here...am going to put the epoxy pebble stone floor in eventually.  Want to use the inside wall for a flat screen and entertainment center.  Basement is dry, with cinders.

Is it common to put dry wall up on the inside (left) wall but not on the remaining walls   See picture

I would suggest that you plan out the entire basement before you frame the one wall. Figure out what you would like the entire space to become (eventually) and make sure that the one wall that you are framing will fit in with those plans, or at least is flexible with future plans. It's not fun down the road having to rip down sections of a new wall to accommodate new plans, ESPECIALLY if you were the one to frame the first wall.

While you are at it, make sure to run all the cables and future proofing items that you would want in the future in this one wall, or provide an easy way to have them installed. Install conduit (if possible) for power and another for telecommunications (Cat5e/Cat6, Telephone, etc). If you don't want to run conduit, at least pre-drill the holes, and leave a pull string in the holes to help with fishing wires. I wish I thought of this before finishing portions of our basement.


Short circuit in dryer? I need some advice. My dryer stopped working. blown thermal fuse. Replaced. Now when I open the dryer door before the timer goes off the dryer continues to spin.

I've spent an hour or two looking for a short now. That's the only thing I can think of that would allow the door switch (which I tested separate and is working) to be bypassed? I have tested at each component and I find continuity between the chassis and component everywhere (in reg dry mode) I also find that the black wire at the plug has continuity to the chassis (dryer door open in reg high heat mode)

Looking at the wiring diagram I see that neutral is tied to the cabinet, and sure enough I can see that when looking at the dryer. This seems pretty crazy to me?

Any tips on how to track down the short? If there is a short? I am really stumped right now im not sure what to do next.

Most of the dryers I have repaired with similar issues have had the Ni crome wire (heating element) break and short. Replacement elements are usually less than 50$. Several times once the broken heating coil broke loose from the metal enclosure everything but the heat worked. Checking the heating element with a meter will show if it is open (broken) or normal less than 50 ohms. One family member had this happen 3 times over several years 2 small holes where the coil arcing caused a small hole that I sealed with metal high temp duct tape. The thermal fuses on that model were 4-5$ the replacement coil was ~28$ and since it is now one of my kids it was free trouble shooting and repair,  things that can cause this are not cleaning the lint filter or taking it out and the pipe fills with lint and ? Now she even has her husband clean the exhaust pipe  just in case once a year but this has happened to me also on a verrry old dryer the wife said she wanted gone but I kept fixing it for way less than a replacement it is now at our other daughters house running strong after her second baby I think it is older than she is but not sure but it still works. Belts , rollers , heat coil's/ fuses and a new filter have kept 1 high capacity dryer running for 32 years +. Dryers are easy with a little time and an ohm meter Or continuity checker.


Do AFCI breakers interfere with any shop equipment? I'm setting up a workshop and have several tools planed which I've heard don't get along with Arc Fault Interrupters.  I don't know if this is true or just something people tell themselves to get out of using the new AFCI breakers... Specifically my 120V circuits will include serval devices with motor speed controllers, PWM heaters, stepping motors, etc.  All will cause expensive material rework if breaker/circuits are erroneously tripped.  Specific equipment include: a Small CNC MIll, Laser Cutter/Etcher, Industrial Sewing Machine, 3 D plastic extrusion printer, and vacuum pumps.
Does anyone have experience with AFCI breakers and these types of equipment?  Also, the 2017 NEC requires AFCIs for Home 120V loads, but what is the reading for a dedicated workshop?  (I understand that 2020 code will bring them to 240V circuits as well)

The kinds of loads that are commonly associated with nuisance tripping of AFCIs are those with brush-type AC motors, called "Universal" motors, because you have AC power going across brushes to a commutator like a DC motor would, so the AC coming from the AFCI breaker is seeing the arcing taking place in that commutator, which has a similar profile to an arcing fault. So small kitchen appliances, vacuum cleaners, portable power tools and things like that which have little high speed motors will have these types of motors.
In a true DC motor with brushes, the AC supply system is buffered from the brushes via the rectifier that converts AC to DC, so the AC that is coming from the AFCI breaker is not seeing the arc directly. So things like Servos (which are often brushless now anyway), PWM controllers and drives, power supplies etc. all have that rectifier as a buffer and generally don't aggravate AFCI breakers.
But also, this issue of Universal motors causing nuisance tripping has been over blown to some extent. Over time, the AFCI breaker mfrs have been continuously improving the response algorithms of the little microprocessors inside of the breakers to reduce the nuisance tripping.


What is the cheapest way to add texture to a wall The previous home owners used a perforating tool to remove wallpaper, and just painted over all the holes and lines.  I am in desperate need of some texture with no budget.  I need to put a new baby in the room.  I don't want to buy a hopper, and the cans of texture are way too expensive.  I don't think I have a steady enough hand to do skip trowel.  Is there another inexpensive way to texture my walls?

Since you should paint over any texture you apply, combine the two into one step and use a texture paint such as popcorn or sand, both available from Home Depot (similar products are available at other stores).

Alternatively, if you already have some paint, mix your own using a texture additive:


Using a Leviton GFCI self grounding outlet on 1950s house with metal boxes that might or might not be grounded My house (1950s) currently has a bunch of 2 prong outlets or un-grounded 3 prong outlets. I was told in order to be up to code all un-grounded 3 prong outlets need to switched to GCFI outlets. Or If I wanted to use 3 prong appliances I need to upgrade those to GCFI outlets. I decided I would change a bunch of my home outlets. I went ahead and bought a bunch of Leviton outlets. Unfortunately I didn't realize that these outlets come with a self grounding clip. almost all the boxes in my house are metal but I don't know if any of them are grounded correctly if any. My question is this: is it safe to use self grounding outlets in a questionably or un-grounded metal box or do I need to find some GFCI outlets that are not self grounding?

No no no. A "self-grounding clip" is nothing important as far as your concerns about grounding.  It doesn't help at all, and it doesn't really hinder either.

The purpose of a "self-grounding clip" is to resolve some minutae in Code. I assume you've removed a receptacle or switch at some point in your life... you know how there are 2 screws, top and bottom? Ever think "Hey, these screws are metal, and so is this yoke. Is that a valid grounding path?" Code says "Yes" for switches (since they don't need much) and "no" for receptacles (because the yoke-to-screw-head contact is pretty flaky, especially when you're pushing a plug in). Self-grounding receps have an extra spring clip to make that yoke-mounting screw contact reliable enough. That is all.

As such, "self-grounding" doesn't make a hill-of-beans difference to whether the boxes are grounded.

If a ground is isolated, it doesn't matter either way - though it can be valuable to retrofit ground to that location.

The only thing of concern is if you have a group of outlets whose wires are connected to each other yet are not grounded to the panel and grounding system.  In that case, they aren't grounded, and worse, will share ground faults - if one of them has a ground fault, it will place 120V on all their grounds!  So you could get nailed touching your PC, when actually it's a heater that's ground faulting!

  I was told in order to be up to code all un-grounded 3 prong outlets need to switched to GCFI outlets.

That's the simpleton version.    The real version is fitting 3-prong outlets in grandfathered 2-prong sites require ground, or, may instead be GFCI protected.  The GFCI protection doesn't need to be at the receptacle. It can be anywhere, e.g. fed from the LOAD terminals of a GFCI breaker or other device upline.  Also, footnote, outlets thus protected need a sticker saying so.

Perfect world, you only need one GFCI per circuit if you are smart and the wiring cooperates.  If you're fitting 2+ GFCIs per circuit, you may be better off fitting GFCI/AFCI breakers - it's much easier to install, and you get better protection including from most "old wiring" problems. If you're interested, pop off your panel deadfront and shoot us a well-lit picture (yeah I know, hard to do with the main breaker off lol) and ask a question about how to GFCI it.  We know what to look for.

If you are choosing "One GFCI recep at every receptacle", then do not use the LOAD terminals at all. The are ONLY for extending protection to downlines. The LINE terminals are designed to take 2 wires, if you read the instructions carefully.


Where could water be coming from inside the joint between bathtub and wall tiles? I wanted to re-do the silicone seal around my bathtub recently, but after removing the old silicone on the side with the shower head, I noticed that the gap between the tub and the wall tiles was a bit wet.

There was never any moment when the water was visibly coming out of the gap, but if I push toilet paper/kitchen towel against the gap it would start getting wet fairly quickly. Leaving it pushed up against the gap for a while and it would get totally soaked.

Now I can see some cracks in the grout above that edge, and thought water probably got through the cracks over time and made the plasterboard behind it wet, so I wanted to give it some time to dry out. However it's now 12 days since my last shower (in that room...), yet the gap is still capable of soaking kitchen towels!

Do you think it is just a case of the gap being tiny and it would take a long long long time for all the water behind to dry out, or could there be something else leaking?

I have tried to look at the floor below that end of of the bathtub, which looks totally dry. The shower pipes did have a leak last year, but that soon caused visible damage to the bottom of the wall on the other side (kitchen). That same wall looks perfectly fine at the moment, and if it's leaking from the shower again I would have expected there to be fair bit of damage by now.

Some photos of the area for reference below:

I'm afraid your shower plumbing is leaking again. Not as badly as before, but leaking none the less. From the looks of things, water getting past the tiles from showering wouldn't amount to much, and would have certainly diminished by now due to lack of use. Continued flow indicates a water source that is not dependent on showering activity.

The reason you are not seeing water on the kitchen side is because the leak is fairly small and the water found somewhere to go that has enough flow capacity such that the water does not overflow across the wall baseplate or subfloor into the kitchen side.

Bear in mind this is just my best guess. Water leaks can be difficult to trace to the source. No matter what, something is not right and needs to be corrected. Even if the source is something else, you need to get into the wall to investigate. Presumably this is easiest from the kitchen side. Would this be how the plumbing was accessed to repair the previous leak?


Why won't my water heater stop filling? I noticed tonight that my water heater appears to be trying to fill with cold water, but it won't stop. I can hear water flowing through the pipe, and the overflow drain pipe (white one just above the green valve) has a slow, but steady stream of water coming out. Is this normal? I've never noticed this before.

Click for full size

If water is flowing in the white tube, that's coming from the "Thermal Expansion Control Valve" built into the shutoff.  Worst case, this could be because the thermostat or gas control valve has failed on the heater, causing the tank to get too hot.
Is the water too hot?  Is there a Temperature and Pressure relief valve on the tank and is it also tripping?

If the water heater is running too hot, fix whatever is causing that.  But that Thermal Expansion Control Valve (green handle) may have just failed, either way, it will probably have to be replaced.

Also, it looks like there might be a check valve (back-flow prevention) in that stack.  And/or there may be a check valve on your water supply.  Either way, this can cause unacceptable pressures to build up, tripping the expansion control valve and wasting water and energy.

To solve that issue, install a Water Heater Expansion Tank to keep the system at a safe pressure without tripping any relief valves.


Troubleshooting Garage Door Opener (GDO) safety sensors A Linear Brand GDO (model LD033) does not close unless the wired button is held down.

I believe optical safety sensors:

may have been exposed to flood water (hurricane Matthew flooding)
LEDs are not lit up as per normal ops (all LEDs dark)

UPDATE: LEDS light up: the red LED on photo-detector is dark.  Normally it is red when it detects the emitter source.

I suspect that the GDO thinks that the optical safety beam is interrupted \ broken and that is the reason why the RF opener can not close the door.

NORMAL GDO OPS:
A  separate, asymptomatic, instance of the same GDO setup was exposed to flood water but did not suffer this problem.  Observations of normal ops include visible sensor LEDs being lit up to indicate power.  Interruption of the beam results in one of the two LEDs going dark (red LED).  The symptomatic GDO's unlit \ dark LEDs in the optical safety sensors indicate either the sensors are not receiving power or are damaged.

I would like to isolate (diagnose) the problem for corrective action: is there a good troubleshooting procedure?  Any process or diagnostic questions are appreciated

The receiver unit likely shorted out inside from the flooding -- it might be possible to fix it by cleaning the insides thoroughly to get rid of any contamination that'd be causing the short, but it could also be that parts inside it failed.  We'd need some photos of its innards to make that determination, though...


can I install a new thermostat by just turning off the power instead of turining off the circuit breaker? Can I install a new thermostat by just turning the power off at the servicemen's switch, instead of at the breaker?

Yes, but I would

test the voltage at all the thermostat connections before proceeding.
use an insulated screwdriver.

Some thermostat systems operate at safe low voltages (e.g 24 V) but in some countries, it is common for thermostats to be switching dangerous voltages (e.g. 120 or 240 V) so changing a thermostat needs to be handled with as much care as changing a light switch or lamp fitting.


Ceiling drywall separating from trim sign of bigger issues or bad installation? House built in 2008.  First noticed this problem in the kitchen a year or two ago.  Ceiling has wood trim along the top, but it looks like either the trim has shrunk (because its wood) and caused what appears to be a split in the drywall along the edges.  Have noticed this crack forming in other rooms too, along the line where the trim meets the drywall.
Just paint over it?

I don't see anything concerning here.  Built in 2008 there has been some settling and a number of annual cycles that cause wood to shrink/swell.
I'd do nothing at my house but if this troubles you some interior caulk applied along the border would cover this up.
This all assume that the moulding is still firmly attached.  Check that it's not loosened up over time and re-fasten it if necessary.


Question about putting in outlet w/ three sets of wire I purchased a home recently and am looking to replace an electric range with a gas one. Currently, there is a 240v outlet for the electric range but not a 120 for the gas, so I am looking to remedy that. There is an electrical receptacle immediately behind where the range sits that isn't currently being used, so I want to put an outlet there.

I took off the wall cover and I am a bit confused by what I am seeing (picture attached). I have a bit of DIY experience with putting in outlets and switches, but nothing very complicated and I want to be sure that I do this right.

There are three sets of wire coming from different holes in the receptacle; two of them have only hot and neutral wires and the third appears to have hot, neutral and two grounds. All three sets of wires have been twisted together with their corresponding wires and capped off. Can you advise me on how to wire this in correctly?

Thank you for your time, I appreciate the help.

Add a fourth wire to each set - that is 4-12" long.  I like 8-9".  Put the wire nut back on.  In fact, this is a good time to switch to red wire nuts if they're yellow.

These short wires are called pigtails.  Attach them to the receptacle screws in the usual manner.     You can shuck down Romex or buy THHN wire, and you need one wire of each of these:

Ground: MUST be green, yellow/green, bare, or stripped bare. (do not strip stranded wire bare; you'll get a birdsnest.)
Neutral: MUST be white or gray.
Hot: MUST be any unmentioned color. OR a white/gray wire with colored tape markings near each end.

You can get all 3 from a white wire by stripping and remarking.
If you use stranded THHN, the pushing into the box will be super easy, but attaching to the receptacle will be difficult. Consider screw-and-clamp type receptacles for that.

I prefer to attach the pigtails to the receptacle first, and at a comfortable workbench. Then you only have to be in the awkward position for long enough to wire-nut.  I also put stranded on terminal screws, which is hard, so better  done at a bench.

Now, you have a big problem with cubic inches.  This box already has 6 conductors + 1 for all grounds; at 2.25 cubic inches/wire this box is already overfull. The pigtails won't add any (pigtails are free) but the  yoke (outlet) will add 2 wires' worth.    So let's give ourselves some more cubic inches in a tasteful way, using a Legrand Wiremold Surface Conduit Starter Box.  It's intended to surface mount and be a launch point for surface conduit, but it's good for just adding some cubic inches too.


Interlock and backfeed setup with NEMA L6-20 Am starting to put a generator setup together.  I'm planning on setting up an interlock and backfeed breaker into my panel with an outdoor receptacle for the gen to plug into.  The issue is this.  My generator is older(its an old garden way with a cast kohler engine, 5500 and runs like a top), and is setup with a NEMA L6-20 for the 220 which I'm planning on using--it also has two standard nema 5 outlets.  This means it is straight 220...so, can I just wire the whole thing 3 wire, no problem?  meaning in the panel, the 2 hots to the backfeed breaker and the grd to the grd bus bar?  Am I missing something, or do I need the neutral?
Thanks in advance for any input!

Running the house off the L6-20 receptacle (without the neutral) would be almost sure to start wrecking things on your 120V circuits in short order, blowing light bulbs, refrigerator, etc.  And at the worst possible time, during some emergency.

Since there are 120V receps you know there's a 120V tap in there that can be used to supply line-to-neutral loads.  However there's a chance it is too small to carry the full neutral load for this application.  I am not sure, but from that wiring diagram but it looks like the neutral tab on the 120V receptacle is the neutral-ground bond.

I think it would be possible to modify the wiring and install a L14-30R receptacle, but it wouldn't be a modification I'd be comfortable making.  The alternative would be to use a transformer between the generator and the backfed breaker, but at that point maybe you just buy a different generator better suited for the application .


What type of gutter screens are attached to the roof itself? We hired someone to clean our gutters. They came and looked and said they had to remove the (screens?) first. When they came back to do that, they left in about half an hour saying they could not remove the (screens?) as they were afraid they might damage the (roof?) trying to remove them as something was (too glued?) to something... They left and refunded all our money almost immediately...Strange..or not? Anyone know what they might've meant? They gave me a rushed explanation, with very heavy accent, while walking to their truck! They didnt even try to upsell us to entire gutter replacement like we expected!? I dont know whether to get another gutter company or full fledged roofer for a second look/advice..and I really dont want my husband up on the roof..any thoughts, thanks!

Without being able to see it, I am speculating, but I used to work for a roofing and gutter company and this sounds very familiar.  Please keep in mind that the company I worked with is in the Carolinas and roofing methods do vary by region.  It sounds like you have asphalt shingles.  There are 2 relevant things to know about asphalt shingles.  (1)Along the edge of you roof where the gutters are, there should be 2 layers of shingles, the second one being called a starter course.  (2)On the bottom of asphalt shingles is a bead of sealant, very much like an adhesive, that is designed to heat up when the sun hits the roof and seal to the adjacent row of shingles.

There are many different types of gutter guards (including screens) on the market.  Some of the most popular guards install by sliding the upper lip between the starter course and first course of shingles.  After a few years of being in the sun, the guards can get bonded to that sealant pretty good.  Also singles tend to get brittle over the years and it is probably good that the gutter cleaning company left before they did any damage.

There is also one other situation that I have seen numerous times.  Occasionally, I have run into situations where the guards were not installed correctly.  Particularly, I have seen cases where the installer lifted up the first course of shingles and actually nailed the guards through the shingles.  Most gutter cleaning outfits would run as soon as they see this.  Not to fault gutter cleaning companies, they are just not outfitted to handle such a situation.

I would suggest looking for a roofing company that also does gutters.  They will tend to be larger firms and are likely to offer free evaluations.  I would gather data on the age and type of your roof, gutters, and guards ahead of time if possible.  The reality of the situation is that cleaning your gutters is going to be more involved than the $75 guy with a truck and a ladder is going to be able to handle.  The good news is that if your roof, gutters and guards are set up correctly, they should only need to be cleaned once every 5-10 years.


When cutting concrete for basement plumbing, how do you handle rough framing? I'm going to be doing some cutting of the slab in my basement in order to put a bathroom in. There is plumbing under the slab and a pit with a tank in it, but it is probably 30 feet from where I want the bathroom. I understand I need to saw the floor, but there is roughed in load bearing stud walls in place (see this post for actual pics if necessary).

I need to go through/under these walls, so what do I do when I reach them? Cut the footers?

One option is don't cut under the walls. Cut up to a couple of inches away from the wall and stop. Continue a couple of inches past the other side of the wall. Then you can just dig under the slab "bridge".


Re-fishing a broken wire I've recently moved into a new house, and the workshop has what looks like power run to it. There's a cable that goes from the breaker to the workshop, but it does not have power. I assume there's a break in one of the lines in the cable somewhere as I've inspected all of the connections.
The run is through a drop ceiling, which should be easy, but the entire basement was studio insulated and so I can't find this wire. It looks like it enters a bundle with two other wires, but I don't know how tightly they're held together. My guess is the previous owner did the work, and not a certified electrician.
My first thought is to pull the old wire out of the outlet, solder as in-line as possible to a new wire, then shrink wrap that whole thing, and pull it through from the workshop to the panel (would direction matter here for burrs on the holes in the joists, etc?)
What's the standard way of doing this? I'm trying to avoid pulling all the insulation if possible.

If it was installed remotely correctly this is unlikely to work.
Even if it was not done remotely correctly it's still unlikely.
The cables should be stapled or otherwise fastened, which precludes pulling them out.
Even if they were not, the "bundling" of several cables would make pulling one of those cables out of the bundle difficult.
Indeed, even when a single cable is run through holes in studs/joists it's very hard or impossible to pull that out from one end, particularly if the holes were not perfectly aligned.
I would suggest that you start by disconnecting both ends of the cable in question and perform some basic tests on it with a meter, to verify that your guess that a break in the cable is the cause of the problem, before going any further. You may well be chasing the wrong problem. Or looking at the wrong cable.


Induction power source across 1/2" of wood? I'm looking for a way to put a small lamp inside a piece of furniture through which I do not want to drill any holes or run wires along. Are there any premade induction power systems that can get a few watts across less than half an inch separation? I'm flexible about the voltage and whether it ends up as AC or DC since I can just choose a lamp appropriate for it.

It is possible, but the energy losses are great, and the insulator (your desk) will heat up, probably causing heat damage.  Even then, the receiving coil wouldn't be integrated into the base of the lamp.

In short, there's no way this wouldn't be even more obtrusive than a cord hanging off the side of your desk.  If the desk is against a wall, probably better to put in a desk height electrical outlet.

The reason induction charging works for cell phones is due to tiny air gaps, low power requirements, and generally good heat dissipation compared to energy losses.  Only a tiny fraction of the used power actually makes it to the cell phone.  But the phone is storing that, so eventually (over the course of an evening) the phone is charged.  By the way, most phones lack receiving coils, so you still have to plug in a receiving coil and wire into the phone charging jack.

Power that is not directed tends to dissipate according to the inverse square law.  Even if it didn't, the losses in transforming the power to wireless and back are quite large.  Some of the wireless community is quick to point out the wire transmission losses, but that's nothing compared to wireless.

With a lamp, you'll need a lot more power, and continuous power, so the issues with induction fed systems will become a lot more apparent.  I would recommend a battery powered LED desk lamp (with a set of rechargeable batteries).  The LEDs will extend the time between recharges.


Furnance Drain Line Not Draining Recently had a new furnace/ac/ductwork installed in our home. The furnace/air handler are located in the attic on the second floor of the home. A drain line is run from the unit to the utility room on the first floor where it feeds into a floor drain.

About a month after the system was turned on I noticed that the drain line (clear plastic flex tubing) was not draining properly. This tubing runs through a joist bay between my first and second floors (currently open due to renovation) in order to get from the attic on one side of the house to the utility room on the other side. The tubing is not run at a pitch so the water is pooling and not draining.

I asked the HVAC installer if that was a problem and he said it wasn't. I assume it IS a problem, is that correct? If the line were to be adjusted to run at a pitch, would that solve the problem? Or should it be draining currently due to negative pressure?

Thanks!

If it's draining from the second floor to the first floor it will drain. You are correct though it should be pitched so there's no standing water. Standing water will lead to the build up of scale, mold etc. and those things will eventually clog it.


How would I replace 4 posts and beam holding my covered patio with 2 posts? I have a covered patio that extends 10' from the house towards the yard/pool and has a width of 30-33'. The covered patio seems to be part of the roof, I even have access from the attic as we ran some speaker wire a few years ago to the patio.

It is currently supported by (4) 4x4 wood posts which are rotting away. The posts are holding what appears to be (2) side by side 2x6 pieces of wood acting as the beam and span the 30-33' patio.

I would like to replace the (4) existing wood posts and beams with just (2) posts (I'm assuming steel) as far to the edges of the beam as possible. My concerns are due to the span and weight. I want to avoid any sagging of the beam in the middle.

How can this be achieved?

The vertical posts are probably almost strong enough for only two supports as is.  Replacing those with steel is not necessarily needed.

The challenge is the strength of the horizontal span with reduced supports.  If left as wood, it will have to be fortified by a factor of more than two.  Of course, the added weight of that much more beam means the factor must be increased a little more.

Assuming #1 northern Doug-fir for a span holding roofing only which is 20 lbs/sq ft live load plus 10 lbs/sq ft dead load and assuming that the current spans were engineered at 150%, then increasing the current 10-11 ft spans to 30 feet would require replacing the pair of 2x6s with a pair of 2x12s on edge, firmly tied together.

I tried to figure out an equivalent steel beam, but I am out of my experience.  The first result says that a 4x4.5 inch beam is more than twice what is needed.  Searching for rough pricing for such beams is surprisingly challenging.


Making a square - Joining two pieces of wood cut at 45 degrees with a circular saw I am trying to create a 90 degree angle from two pieces of wood so that I can eventually create a squared enclosure. I have cut two pieces of wood at 45 degrees with a circular saw's angle adjustment.

However, when I try to join the pieces of wood, they only meet at their tips and not throughout the slope of the cut (see photo below). Because of this, I can't figure out how to nicely join them together while ensuring that they will have a 90 degree angle when they are merged.

What is the recommended way join wood in this way to create flush 90 degree angles for a squared enclosure? Is it possible to do this with a circular saw?

You need to adjust your circular saw to an actual 45 degree angle, not to where the scale markings say '45'. Your speed square will do the trick.

(Or redesign for butt joints and skip the bother of a circular saw for 45s like that...)

edit to add, I tend to avoid cuts like this with a handheld circular saw because they are hard to do well, but you can improve the cut by concentrating on keeping the large part of the shoe (aka sole/deck) flat on the wood, and using something like your speed square to guide the saw to a smooth 90 degree cut.


What could be causing a steady tapping noise in a tankless water heater? I have a Jacuzzi hot water heater, installed about 2 years ago. It works fine, however, when it is sitting idle (no making hot water) it has recently developed a steady tapping noise from within. When I shut off the incoming or outgoing water valves it stops.
I opened up the cover and blow out any dirt with compressed air. I cleaned the water filter.
Any ideas?

An experienced plumber explained that the tapping noise could be gas trapped under sediment at the bottom of the tank. As the gas rises the bubble "explodes", creating a tapping noise. Draining the tank could remove some of the sediment, but the best thing is to call a professional for help.


How to wire L1, L2, n1, n2 and pe wires to install 220v-240v stove? I'm trying to install a stove but I'm stuck on the wiring. There's an l1, l2, n1, n2 and pe wire sticking out of the wall. The stove has four attachment points for the wires. I don't know how to attach the wires in order to make it 220-240 volts. How am I supposed to wire it?

None of the drawings in pic 2 want 2 neutrals.  So the relevant  lineside wiring in pic 4  is the one your hand is covering, with black-brown as two hots, and gray as 1 neutral.

Now we need to sanity-check our power requirements for the stove.  The stove lists its max power as 7kw.  That is 30.4 amps at 230V.  Two 16A hots can just feed that, if the loads are balanced in the machine.

Now there is only one wiring diagram in pic 2 that wants L1-L2-N-PE.  That is the drawing on the lower left.


An asbestos panel was removed without realising, how much danger are we in? Two years ago a builder was working on our Victorian house and removed a approx. 1 ft x 2ft6 panel, then realised it might be asbestos.  He said he got rid of it safely, and didn't damage it, and that everything was fine and we didn't think much more of it.  After seeing recent campaigns about asbestos we are now really worried about this incident.

The house was still rather dusty when we moved back in from all the building work (extension etc).  The floor under the carpets was only quickly swept, so would still be dusty underneath.

Have we been living in asbestos dust for years?

How serious is this?

What, if anything, can we do now?

Asbestos in building materials is generally only a concern where the material is friable i.e. brittle and crumbly.  You haven't said, but if the "panel" was removed as a unit, then almost certainly very little asbestos was released.  If, on the other hand, the panel were pulverized and destroyed to the point where a lot of dust was created, that may be cause for more concern.

But, there is little you can do about it now.  Also, in my opinion, there is very little to be worried about.  I believe much of the fear over asbestos has much more to do with fear over litigation and large damages awards than it does over actual danger.  The fact is, people who contract mesothelioma are generally those who had continuous exposure to high concentrations of asbestos fibers over many years.  Just as inhaling a bit of coal dust is not likely to give you black lung, the odd asbestos fiber here and there is not likely to kill you.

Any fibers under the carpet (and carpet pad I assume) are effectively encapsulated and unlikely to move through the pad and carpet into the atmosphere.  Fiber concentration in the air will decrease over time with air changes and with settling out.  After 2 years, I would be surprised if you had any measurable asbestos fibers in the air.

Lastly, you said that the panel "might" contain asbestos.  If you don't know and cannot test it or another piece of the same panel, then you will never know if there is asbestos and you should not, in my opinion, live in fear.  If you can have the piece tested and it does contain asbestos, bear in mind that in some jurisdictions you will have to disclose that fact on sale of the home.

EDIT:  Humorous (and likely accurate) answer from prior similar question:  "You are far more likely to die from worrying about asbestos than from asbestos."  That answer here:

How can I seal the edges of a linoleum floor that possibly contains asbestos?

Helpful link to a Reader's Digest article also from that answer:
http://fumento.com/asbestos/asbest.html


What anchors to use on walls with rigid foam insulation behind the wallboard? My builder installed insulation board over the existing solid brick walls in our new kitchen. I need to install anchors for string shelf supports but haven't had any luck finding the right ones.

I've drilled through the wall to the brickwork. Depth from inside face of wall to brick is 110mm approx. There is studwork attached to the brickwork and then either 12 or 18mm plywood attached to that. Then the insulation board and plasterboard on top. My problem is that there is only approx 45mm gap between the brick and plywood so the anchors I've tried to install (link below) can't rotate up to grab the plywood as they need just a bit more room than I have. I tried shaving off some of the brick with a long sds bit but don't have the space to manouever it and don't want to damage the outer wall with my fiddling.

This is an image of how the builder explained it is laid out, and it seems to fit with my drilling:

Here are the anchors I've tried. Any suggestions?

The plywood is robust enough that I'd hang your shelves on that with wood screws. If they're very heavy, hit the plywood and the studs. You may get some bending of fasteners, though, due to the span to the face of the wallboard, so use fairly heavy screws (#10 or better).

I see no reason to anchor into the masonry. By the time your screws pull out of the plywood you'll have serious damage to the drywall anyway. That's unlikely unless you go nuts with the decorative plates and load your shelves to an absurd degree.


Is it a bad idea to put in replacement windows in the winter? The house I moved into recently urgently needs some replacement windows.  For example, in the kitchen, the original windows aren't there any more.  It's just some sort of quasi-storm window.  It's very cold and drafty.

We didn't have time to work on this until now.  But now it's mid-November.  If we order custom windows from a big box store, it will take at least three weeks for them to arrive.  Would it be a bad idea to install the new windows in mid-December?  I am in upstate New York, close to Pennsylvania.

The alternative would be to temporarily install some plexiglass just to get us to spring.

I see no particular reason that installing windows in December is a bad idea--assuming it can be done quickly enough to not freeze to death or have rain/snow ruin anything. You may want to make temporary living arrangements for a few days while the windows are being installed.

My recommendation is to go somewhere other than a big box store. You may be able to get them MUCH quicker else where. HD told me it'd take 12 wks to get in Andersen windows-- I got them thru a local HW store in 4 weeks--for less money.


How to repair a lose door handle? I can almost pull out my door handle. There is a loose ring as well.

And since a picture is worth a thousand words:

More details:

There are four screws on the inside of the door, they are all firmly in place.
There are no screws on the outside of the door.
This is the main entrance door to my apartment. Rotating the knob just visible on the top of the first picture can lock the handle.
On the outside, there is a key hole to unlock the door. The key hole appears align directly with the rotating knob on the inside.
On the outside, there is also a push thingy. Pushing it down has the same effect as rotating the handle on the inside. This thingy is not loose.

I have absolutely zero knowledge and experience on door handles and locks. I do have some basic tools like a few screwdrivers, a small wrench, a hammer etc.

Questions:

What type of handle / lock is this (so I can research it further)?
It is realistic that a person like me (with no previous experience) can fix it? I am afraid I won't be able to put everything together once I disassemble the thing. Should I call a locksmith?
If so, how?

If you are handy at doing things and can see how things go together, it can be fixed, I believe without a locksmith.

There should be a set screw on the lever that can be tightened. The picture you have does not show that side of the lever, but if it did you may find it to be an allen (hex) set screw.

In some handle sets, the allen screw has a very long sharp point to dig into a specific spot on the shaft. Sometimes the shaft is not set in the proper orientation for that to happen and the handle gets loose not matter what is done

If there is no allen set screw, the handle is kept in place by circlips

on the back side (inside) of the interior backing plate. Remove the 4 screws, the backing plate will come off, you my find some loose parts in there still around the shaft, unless they are broken


What wood should I use on a garage door? I have a garage door that has wood on the door itself.

The wood has not aged very well. It is about 6 years old and has paint coming off of it as well as is starting to fall off of the door. There are also a few pieces that have warped some.

So my question is, what type of wood should I be using on a door like this?

Looks like cedar, that is a good wood to use.  One thing to do if you replace it, is seal the ends and backs of the boards before you put the wood on, so this is less likely to happen again


How can/should I remove paint from my overhangs? Old paint is peeling off my overhangs (maybe eaves is the right term?) and I need to repaint.  Big pieces of the old paint are coming off by hand, but in many patches the paint is still holding on to the wood.

Should I scrape it off, remove it with some kind of chemical, or just paint over it?  If I should remove it, what's the best way?  I tried a hand-held metal scraper and I don't think it's a good solution for the whole house -- too much work, and I find myself gouging the wood almost as much as removing paint.

you have a couple of options:

1) sand it down, depending on how sound the paint is you could just sand down and then prime again before painting, however the paint applied to these patches may come off with the underlying paint in the future

2) best option for me is get some eco paint stripper gel, paint it on the paint patches generously and then attach some cling (PVC food wrap) film secured with drawing pins. The cling film will initially hold on to the gel quite well, but as the gel penetrates the paint it will fall off, hence the drawing pins. Leave it 24h and it should scrape off quite readily


Opening a light fixture that has plastic clips Hi, my bathroom light is out and I can't get this fixture open. It has three plastic clips that don't seem to want to let go of the glass. Also seem to be permanently attached to the fixture - I can't budge them sideways or away from the glass other than to bend them slightly but they seem very stiff. Any ideas?

Purchased in Home Depot in Mexico, but I see IKEA recalled a similarly clipped fixture because the clips may break and drop the glass.

One of those clips should be spring loaded and can be pulled out to release the glass. Try again to pull each one of them straight out.


Can this drain pipe be moved back closer to the exterior wall The attached picture might show better, but I want to get as much room as I can and based on the current rough ins, it looks like the pipe comes out at an angle from the wall. Does it make sense to dig up the concrete and make a more vertical path?
I'd like the framing to be more straight.

Here's the proposed layout (the left layout, ignore the other two). Basically I want a stand up shower on the left, toilet in the middle, and sink on the right. The drain going into the ground for the sink is what's throwing me off.

Added a new picture of wider angle.

With the wider perspective and builder's drawing it is looking like your original assumptions are correct--the vent was intended to be in a wall parallel to the foundation. This is unfortunate, since moving it outward would require that the toilet stub also be moved. It needs to be centered 12" from the finished wall behind it. The tub drain is also in the wrong spot if you're putting in a full 60" tub.
So yes, if you wish to maximize room size, you'll need to open the floor. Unless there's some weird surprise under the slab, like an oversized footing, this shouldn't be a problem.
I'm not sure it's worth the effort, though. You probably want your wall in front of the upper horizontal run of pipe so you don't have to deal with working around that. This means you're ~4" from the vent at the floor anyway. It looks like your basement is wide open otherwise, so that 4" in a bathroom probably isn't consequential.


Does using a ceiling fan pull chain cause more wear than using a light switch? Does it matter if you always use the light switch to turn the fan off instead of using the pull chain? Basically every time someone flips the light switch on or off the fan turns on or off. Does this wear out the motor any faster or anything?

There is no additional wear on the motor either way.

Obviously, there will be wear on whichever switch you use.


How to determine if hardwoods are under cabinets? I'm house shopping and some homes have built-ins or kitchen cabinets that I'd like to remove.  I was wondering, first, is it possible to determine without taking the cabinets apart whether there are hardwood floors underneath?

Also, if there are not hardwoods underneath, how feasible/costly is it to patch a section of hardwood flooring to get a decent match to the existing?  Would the whole floor need refinishing?

If it is an older house with existing hardwood floors, there is a terrific chance of the floor going under the cabs, If there is laminate flooring, The chances are nil it goes under.

On older homes, with hardwood floors if the cabinets are removed, they may need to be refinished anyway since the floors usually are never sanded and stained under the cabinets, but it beats a tie in and refinish. On newer homes, I have seen cabinets placed on the subfloor or on plywood to raise them up, and the flooring run to the cabinets.

With laminate floors, if you can find the flooring still, you will need to pull a piece to match it up by. This will have to be done anyway to some degree to tie in the new with the old, if that is what you have. You could try to patch the immediate area, which I do not recommend. I would pull up the flooring to the affected area and relay the new to recover the cabinet's foot print.


How to keep pine needles out of a gutter? The gutters on my house have screens over them to keep out leaves which seems to work but I have pine trees close enough to my house that I get pine needles all over my roof and the screens do nothing for that. Then cleaning out the gutters is actually made more difficult by the presence of the screens. Is there a good way to keep both pine needles and leaves out of the gutters?

The last guy who cleaned my gutters suggested a product which is essentially a foam/sponge fitted to fill the length of the gutter. Water still soaks through and then down the spout but it keeps solids out even if they're pine needles. Anyone know if this is a viable solution?

I installed the foam strips on my gutters last fall for this very reason. The design is that leaves should just blow off.

Does it work with pine needles? Eh...sorta. The problem is that they don't blow off like leaves do...they tend to just sit on top of the sponge, but that seems OK as water still seeps into the sponge fine and drains away. I still have to brush off the needles once a year, but that's a lot easier than digging them out of the gutters by hand.

The only drawback is that in a really heavy rain, in some areas, the water is hitting the gutters with such volume that it can't all soak in and overflows. This really only happens in the valleys on my roof. That said, I have a poorly designed house with a roof line that wasn't well thought out for drainage so that's more the architect's fault than the gutter sponges, methinks.

I live in the PNW so we're talking lotsa rain + lotsa pine needles. If I were to design a house from scratch, I probably would design it to forgo gutters completely...I'd have large overhangs, properly slopped grade, and then likely those 'rain fins' to help spread the drip line out a bit.


Can I replace a 48" glass sliding closet door with two 24" doors? Need to replace two broken 48 inch glass sliding doors with 48 inch panel sliding doors but unable to find 48 inch panel sliding closet doors. Possible to attach two 24 inch doors together?

In my area it is common in rental units to install panel doors in lieu of mirrored doors. We buy the mirrored door track, frame, roller, and hardware kits but with no mirrors. They call it a "knock-down" kit. We then cut wood or composite panels to fit where the glass would go. The manufacturer even gave us a table with net mirror glass dimensions, to use when sizing the wood panels. Check with a local high-volume window and door shop. You might even be able to get the kits from a "big-box" hardware store but I prefer to work with the guys at the sash and door shop for the personal service and expertise.

You might even be able to use your old frame and hardware, measure carefully first, then take apart the frames (they are screwed together) and cut wood panels to fit.


How can I find places to nail/screw into walls of ICF (insulated concrete form) home? The home I bought has exterior walls made of ICF (insulated concrete form).  I don't know the brand or type, I just know that somehow the builders attached the drywall to the styrofoam/concrete.

I'm looking to add picture molding and want to ensure it will be secure when hanging weighty items.

I've tried a new stud finder and it doesn't work.

I was under the house the other day and saw the bottom (2") edge of the styrofoam and could not find any change in the styrofoam in the horizontal direction.  I'd expected an embedded strip of something more durable than styrofoam.

I'm not an expert, but it sounds like you have what we have at our house, so I'll say what I know (and/or can reference).

From Wikipedia: "The forms are interlocking modular units that are dry-stacked (without mortar) and filled with concrete. The forms lock together somewhat like Lego bricks and serve to create a form for the structural walls or floors of a building."

In other words, no wooden studs.  Just plain ol' styrofoam.

If you're able to look at the top part of the wall, you might actually be able to see the protruding Lego brick-like top part of the interlocking structure.  This would also tell you just how thick the form is.

While Wikipedia says the form bricks are dry-stacked, it wouldn't surprise me if there were a little adhesive used between them (it kind of seems like a good idea, but it's possible the form manufacturers recommend against that for some reason).

As far as how they attached the drywall: just a bunch of screws, in our case.  It's also reasonable to use adhesive in addition, as long as it won't eat through the styrofoam (or other material), of course.  The styrofoam was actually surprisingly strong when I was drilling screws into it.  Given that they used somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 screws on the 4' wide floor-to-ceiling sheet of drywall, I have no concerns about it coming down.

There are electrical outlets and phone jacks on our ICF walls, and the lines and boxes are accommodated by carving out appropriate cavities.  That creates another factor to consider when drilling into the ICF wall.  Specifically: how straight are the channels that were carved out, and in which direction were they carved?  Did they use nail plates along the route?

Now, as far as attaching things to the wall securely is concerned... I doubt it would be equivalent to a stud in terms of support capacity, and I'm having trouble finding information on this topic online.  If the drywall is attached directly to the ICF, you won't have any cavity behind the wall to place a spreading-type anchor, so those are ruled out.  Of course, if you make the assumption that the wall is at least as strong as drywall on its own (indeed, I'd assume it's at least a little stronger), you can use a self-drilling drywall anchor (Lowe's has one branded "TOGGLER") and get plenty of capacity.  Plus, you can use them in any location (excluding wire runs, as noted above) without worrying about hitting a stud after you've bored a giant hole in the drywall.


Why are ball valves spherical instead of cylindrical? It seems strange to me that ball valves are ball-shaped, when I would have thought a rotating cylinder with a transverse hole cut in the same way would be easier and cheaper to machine. Does anyone have any ideas?

A sphere allows for sealing with simple o-rings in a flat configuration. This simplifies design, component acquisition, assembly, and repair and maintenance.


How many amps can 240v handle-tied breakers provide? Question

How much amperage can handle-tied breakers provide?

If there are 2 circuits, is there any way I can check?

Background

My heating is provided by 3 convection heaters, respectively 1000w, 1500w and 1750w. The 1750w unit broke, and to increase our comfort we thought about upgrading to a 2000w unit (the 1750w unit is not manufactured anymore).

I've been trying to ramp up and understand what kind of power the tripped breakers provide, and what my options are. The circuits on the "on" parts of the two breakers are for the kitchen countertop and the living room.

My current understanding is that to get 240v, these handle-tied breakers are also joined in the back somehow, and effectively provide a maximum of 20 amp, of which I can only use 80%.

If my math is correct, this means that I have available 240v * 20a * 0.8 = 3840w. Given I live in Canada, AFAIU all units have to be considered as running continuously at their full rating.

Assuming all of this understanding is correct, this would mean that the current setup used too much wattage.

  3840w
- 1750w
- 1500w
- 1000w
-------
-  410w

It would also mean that downgrading to a 1500w unit wouldn't be acceptable.

However, this answer makes me think there could be 2 circuits (doubling the available power?). How can I make sure this is my case?

I noticed the first the first unit has 2 sets of wires connected to it, while the last unit only has one. If the 2nd unit only has 1 set, would this mean that either (1 and 2) or (1 and 3) are on one circuit?

Here's the full panel if that helps:

Your calculations look correct, indicating that the circuit is currently oversubscribed. The best solution would be if you could put in separate breakers (and wire to match) for some of the heating units. However, you have to be careful as (a) you already have some double-stuff breakers, so you likely will need to turn more regular breakers into double-stuff to be able to fit in another circuit, (b) once you start adding more circuits, other rules such as AFCI may come into play.

As far as the number of circuits. It is typical (though not the only way to do things) to wire things up Panel -> A -> B -> C. In that case, you would see two sets of wires ("in" and "out" or "line" and "load") on A & B as each one connects one direction to get power and another direction to provide power to the next unit. The simple way to tell (provided nothing is really strange) is to turn off the breaker. If all the units you think are connected to that circuit switch off when you turn off the breaker then they are sharing the circuit.


Ghost current in 3-way light swtich I have a 3-way light switch in my hallway with 2 light bulbs. I canceled one of the bulbs (I don't necessarily need 2 lights) and install an LED light on the other. Now, when I'm turning off the the light from the switch, LED light doesn't turn off completely, there is still a very weak light (definitely noticeable in dark) coming from it. Initially I thought there's a problem in one of the switches, I took both of them out and connected the hot cables by hand to check the issue and it was still there.
Here's a diagram of my setup:

When I don't connect any cables in first switch (S1), I don't measure any current in any of the cables in switch 2 (S2). If I connect the live cable to S1-A, then I measure normal current in S2-A, but also weak current in S2-B and S2-C although the ends of those cables are naked and not touching each other.
When I connect replace the LED lamp with a CFL bulb, it's not effected from the weak current, i.e. when I turn it off, there's no light coming (unlike the LED, where a weak light is still emitted).
So my questions are:

Is the weak current in S2-B and S2-C are ghost current and what's the cause of it?
Could it be dangerous if I continue using CFL bulb (ignoring the weak current)?
How can I fix it?

It's capacitive coupling between the wires between the two switches,
this allows a small amount of electric current to make a side-run around the open switch contacts.  This small current is enough to cause some CFLs to flash periodically and some LED fixtures to glow dimly. and to trigger non-contact voltage detectors.
It can be cured by adding a lighting capacitor in parallel with the light fixture, providing a path to neutral sufficient to pass most of the ghost current rendering to voltage at the outlet to low to activate the lamp.


Pendant light cord too long How would you shorten a pendant lamp's electrical cable? It's a USA home from the 1920s.

The question has been asked before, but wrapping an electrical cable around a metal caribeaner seems dangerous.

This installation needs a junction box. Electrical ordinances require that all power connections be made inside an accessible protective box.

In the USA your governing code will be your state's adoption or enhancement of some edition of the NEC. Other places in the civilized world will have similar ordinances. This is why I asked where you are.

If you are handy with detail carpentry, you may be able to do this job yourself, but if you are not confident and comfortable, you should hire a handyman or even an electrician. Ask for someone who can do "old work" "wiring repair".


How can I seal old Jalousie windows? In our rented house there are old Jalousie windows (the kind with glass slats). When I was looking for ways to seal them better (it's getting cold here), I came across this:

http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Jalousie-Louver-Slat-Vinyl/dp/B000KZPB9K

However, the product matches 3/16" thick glass, whereas our windows are 1/4". Any chance it will fit anyway since it's Vinyl?

Any other suggestions for sealing Jalousie windows?

Shrink film - works irrespective of window type. Apply doublestick tape around window frame, apply shrink film, heat with hairdryer or heat gun to shrink, remove in spring. Quite clear, quite effective, not very easy to remove/replace if you decide to open the windows in January, though it can be removed/replaced with care if you don't trim all the excess film when installing. "Shrink film window kit" will find a vast array in a search, or try your hardware store.


Covering a 30-in x 7ft space that's suited for a door? We have a bedroom with 30-inch x 7-ft opening that takes me to a bathroom and a closet. This opening is ideal for a door, but it's solid concrete and very difficult to drill.

So I was thinking of putting something that would cover this hole, but is easy to install. I was thinking of an accordion door or something very simple, but I don't know if these exist for this type of application. I prefer not having to drill a frame into the concrete.

This connects to a bathroom, so there's no need for something as sophisticated as a door. The only reason I wanted to cover it is because the bedroom has an A/C so the air escapes to the bathroom and closet, and it becomes very inefficient.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

You could mount curtain hardware on the ceiling and use a curtain to close off the opening.


Can a HVAC solve my ventilation problem? I have a problem with my house such that with all my windows and doors closed the house smells and the air feels stale.  I'm thinking of purchasing a high efficiency HVAC to vent the stale air out and blow fresh air in.  Would a HVAC accomplish what I'm asking?  Or is the only way to vent stale air out is to open the windows?

HVAC systems don't exchange air with the outside unless you specifically add an air exchanger. In older houses, this wasn't necessary because they leaked enough that you always got new fresh air coming in somewhere. With newer houses and recently fully renovated ones, the houses can indeed be sealed up so air tight that an air exchanger is necessary.
Based on your response, what it sounds like you have is an old house, recently renovated to be made air tight, with existing duct work and a furnace.
Based on that, you don't need a new HVAC system, you need an add on air-exchanger, such as this:

Ducting will need to be added to the outside to allow this machine to suck in outside air and blow out inside air.  This kind of device is, IMO, best installed connected to air return of your existing furnace so that fresh air can be injected, heated, and distributed thru the house.


Using the oven wall outlet to plug in a dryer? Is it possible to use the 240v outlet in your kitchen for the oven to plug a dryer into? (For those of us without washer/dryer hookups) and then vent it out through the kitchen window? Thanks so much!

Maybe, but probably not.
Electrical
Most electric dryers are designed to be connected to a 30 ampere branch circuit, using a NEMA 14-30 plug. While most electric ranges are designed to work with a 50 ampere branch circuit, using a NEMA 14-50 plug.
Since the two devices likely use different plug configurations, it's not going to be as simple as just plugging the dryer in.  You could probably make up an adapter (or maybe find one for sale), but you'd have to make sure it was made well and used the proper materials.
Environmental
The next problem you might encounter, is exhausting the dryer. It sounds simple, just stick the hose in the window and let it go. Unfortunately, the exhaust contains quite a bit of moisture and lint.  So you'll have to be careful where you exhaust to, or you'll end up with some really angry neighbors. You'll also have to be concerned with preventing the exhaust from being sucked right back into your home. Since I'm sure you don't want all that moisture and lint in your home either.


3-way switch light is on when both switches on or off, otherwise works as expected. Hope the subject was clear.  If not...

I have 2 3-way switches on my hallway. If both are in the same position (either off or on) the lights are on. If they are opposite the lights are off.  Other than turn one switch upside down, what could be the wiring issue?

Thanks in advance!

This is how 3-ways work

You have described what is utterly normal for 3-ways.   If you don't like opposite=off, do as brhans says in his answer that he's about to write.  And I'm with you, I do that all the time.

Or go another way with a relay

You can't just use random relays out of the Mouser catalog.  However they make mains-wiring-listed relay modules legal for this, and they fit in a junction box knockout or inside a box.

Use a latching relay.   This has two coils and a common.  Energize one coil, the relay throws on and stays.  Energize the other, the relay throws off and stays.   Energizing need be only momentary.

You use these with a special momentary SPDT (in other words, a 3-way) switch that lives in the middle position until you push it up or down.  Now you can use the 3-way switch wiring to carry common and two coils.


Receptacle spacing when one is mounted tv The contractor is putting in the cable and electrical for the TV at 5' high.  There is not other receptacle along this wall,  The 5' high one will be just under 12' from the other wall receptacle...Problem is- we wanted a desk on that wall- under the TV-- in the bedroom-- with a lamp and it will look strange to have the cord hanging down from the wall mounted TV-- mounted - to avoid the wires hanging from the tv..... any recourse.?. other than asking please..which I have done-- they will only do it if I can find a code covering this-- so i may be stuck with an extension cord from another wall- about 12' long.. or have it hang down from the TV-- ??

There is no height requirement for outlets other than 210.52.4 . This limits the height to 5-1/2' to be counted in the spacing. as no point more than 6' away from a receptacle or 12' between them measured horizontally along the wall.
If your contractor won't drop one down the wall from the TV outlet (at a extra charge for the additional outlet time & materials) I would complain. But at 5' and within 12' measured horizonaly along the wall this outlet meets the minimum code standard.


Can wireless ceiling fan controls work without a direct wire to a wall switch? Is there a wireless controller that can control fan without the direct wire from switch to fan?  There is direct power at fan, and direct power at switch but they are not connected together.  Looking for a way to control fan without running wire to fan.

There are a number of retro fit kits to make pull chain fans wireless.  Just search for Ceiling Fan Remote Control Kit.  Most big box hardware stores have them in stock as well.  The wall switch will not be used but you can mount the remote on the wall next to the switch.


We found this is it mold? We had a water leak about two months ago and since then I have been sick. We have a mold specialist coming out but they couldn’t come for two weeks. We peeled the carpet back to find this...

That appears to just be the broken down remains of rubberized carpet padding. If you look on the tack strip (the little strip with the nails in it that holds the carpet in place), there appear to be larger pieces of it still embedded on the strip, probably from a previous carpet installation that was removed sloppilly years ago. That's not to say you don't have mold somewhere, but that's not mold.


Spa panel amperage upgrade I have a 50 amp gfci spa panel need to make it 60 for new spa. Can I just change the breaker or do I have to change the entire box?

Thanks

You'll likely also have to increase the size of the conductors feeding the panel, which means pulling new cable/wires.  But nobody can say for sure, without knowing what's there now.

You may have to upgrade the panel, but again it depends on what's there now.


How can I replace my old dimmer switch? Replacing dimmer. Old dimmer has two black wires attached to two white wires in box. There are two black wires in box not attached to dimmer but wire-nutted together. Is it ok to wire the new dimmer switch the same way?

The quick answer is yes, it is ok however I'd advise to switch the wires. That is, wire nut the two white wires and connect the black wires through the dimmer switch, I'll explain.

You switch box is a hot box, any switch system has a hot box or hot lamp. If power is run directly to the lamp and only switch cables run to the switch you have a hot lamp. In this case you have a hot box, one set of those cable is live and the other set runs to the lamp outlet. On a hot box you want to bridge the neutral lines together(white) and switch the hot lines(black) that way your lamp isn't powered when change a light bulb (and the switch is turned off).
Side note to complete: a hot lamp typically runs a black and white to the switch so you'd have one color on each side of the switch.


Inserting pvc pipe into wall for kitchen drain I ripped out the pvc pipe from my kitchen drain and now would like to add a new one.
The kitchen drain is some sort of metal (cast iron I assume).
Do I just prime and put cement on the pvc pipe and the cast iron drain or is there some additional steps I need to follow to create a water tight seal and follow code to attach a piece of pvc pipe to a metal drain pipe?

I wouldn't just throw cement on a PVC pipe and shove it in there. You need to clean off the rust, corrosion and other debris that's in the cast iron pipe. Grind out the rough/rust spots so you have a smooth surface. Then get an compression donut from your plumbing store that fits in your cast iron pipe and also your PVC pipe. Follow the directions and you should be good to go..
(picture from Home Depot site)


Water softener trips TPR valve Recently moved into this place where the previous owner had put the softener on bypass. I’ve reconditioned the whole thing, new seals, scrubbed out the brine tank, new salt...
Come time to hook it up, with fingers and toes crossed with great trepidation I tripped the bypass and started a manual recharge.  Everything was going fine, softener was sending water to the drain and getting brine from the tank when all of a sudden KABOOOOOSHKAAAAA!  The TPR valve on the hwc blew! Water everywhere.
I’ve changed my shorts, moped the floor, put the softener back on bypass and everything seems fine again but I really want to use this water softener.
Any thoughts?  I suspect it was a water hammer, maybe air in the resin tank getting blown out... who knows... but I can’t have that happening once a week at 2Am.
Can I run a hose from the TPR pipe to the drain?
Many thanks.

Dealing with that pesky urge to...expand

Your issue is that the water in a hot water heater expands as it is being heated.  This backpressure is normally taken up by the city water supply without issue, as the water in the heater is all still potable (drinkable), and most houses have nothing in their water supply line that would block this backflow of water.

However, some houses have a device on the cold side of the hot water heater that blocks this backpressure, at least some of the time.  While the usual culprit is what's called a pressure-reducing valve or PRV, and devices known as backflow preventers also pose this problem when fitted, in your case, the behavior is caused by the water softener shutting off its outlet valve during the regeneration process.  With nowhere to go, the water in the tank builds up pressure as it is heated, and eventually the T&P valve on the water heater lets go to relieve this excess pressure down the drain.

Fixing this requires adding an expansion tank in between the water softener and the water heater.  This provides a place for the extra volume occupied by the heated water to go, thus mitigating the pressure change and keeping the water heater relief valve from opening in the process.

While you're fixing this plumbing...

There is another fix you need to make to your water heater while you are in re-working the plumbing. Since you have softened water plumbed to your heater, which is highly conductive, your heater's protective anode rod (sacrificial anode) will not last long, as the extra conductivity of the water makes the rod excessively active.  And once that rod goes away, there is nothing standing between your water heater tank and rusting away into a giant leak; while typical residential water heater tanks have a thin porcelain-glass lining that acts as primary corrosion protection, this lining is expected to have defects in it that allow water direct access to the tank steel.

This is fixed by removing the anode rod from the tank and installing a powered anode in its place.  Instead of forming a galvanic cell between the tank steel and the anode rod with the water as the electrolyte to prevent the tank from rusting out, the powered anode converts 120V AC into a small, low-voltage current that is impressed on the tank steel (it's a household version of something called impressed current cathodic protection in industry), thus opposing the normal galvanic cells that drive the corrosion process and keeping the tank's steel intact for as long as power is applied, irrespective of water conductivity.

As to finding one? Powered anodes are available through a variety of sources; Amazon has the Corro-Protec kit available for just over $100, while your local supply house may have the Corro-Protec or Ceranode kits available; if those don't work, you can get powered anodes through Water Heater Rescue.  If you have an A.O. Smith-made water heater, and it is still under its factory warranty, you can get a powered anode kit from A.O. Smith (part number 100305721) that is guaranteed to not void the remaining warranty on the heater, even.

In the case the heater's already shot

There is a chance, of course, that your water heater has bigger issues than needing the aid of a mere expansion tank.  Some blundering types pull the anodes out of water heaters used on softened water, and this leads to a very short life for said water heater before it dies a messy death from the inside out.  It could also be the case that the existing heater may be at the end of its natural life and in need of replacement anyway.

In either of those cases, I would recommend looking to either an A.O. Smith-made water heater with one of the aforementioned powered anode kits fitted for your replacement heater if you wish to stay with a traditional glass-lined tank, or looking quite hard at alternatives to glass-lined tanks.  Stainless steel tanks are a fairly popular option, but take some care in material selection, especially in water with a high chloride content, due to issues with stress corrosion cracking in the most common grades of stainless steel.  There are also cement-lined water heater tanks out there, if stainless steel is not an option in your case; however, they are harder to find than stainless tank heaters are.  Lastly, if you are replacing an electric water heater, Rheem makes a polymer-tanked electric water heater called the Marathon that has no issues with corrosion whatsoever.


Doorbell transformer wiring to an electrical outlet? I just bought a new doorbell transformer (24V 40VA), to replace for current one (10V 5VA) because I bought a video doorbell.
I'm don't have any experience with electricity but I'm willing to learn (please bear with me). So I was hoping it was going to be an easy swap old for new.
Unfortunately what I see is a transformer going through an electrical outlet and no wire colors.

My concern is the wiring the new transformer properly.
The new transformer new transformer  has the Hot(black), Neutral(White), Ground(Green) wiring.
When I disconnect the disconnect the old transformer from the sides of the outlet, how can I tell where to connect the Black and White wires? In the picture of the old transformer, they are both black!
Any advice would be appreciated!
-M
=====================================
UPDATE:
Thanks all for your prompt feedback!
Just so I am being clear... I was just hoping to replace the old one with this new one.
I hope this new diagram better illustrates what I'm thinking:
I was thinking of running the the White wire from the new transformer to the silver screw on the outlet.
Running the the Black wire from the new transformer to the brass screw on the outlet.
Lastly running the Green wire from the new transformer to the ground screw on the outlet (pigtail it?).

Do you see any issue(s) with my setup?
Thanks again!

The ac going to the transformer doesn’t matter because the low voltage on the other side is isolated.
However there are several issues as I see it
The high voltage between the transformer and metal box the wires are not in flex or rated for being in the open not a big deal but a code violation.
Next with the transformer not mounted to the metal it is not grounded so a fault could end up on the low voltage side and not tripping the circuit breaker.
Most door bell transformers are made to mount on a box and the 120v connections are made inside the box, this is the case with your new one
You will have knock out one of the slugs on the side of the box )make sure it will fit first)  you may have to add a spacer behind the box so the transformer can mount on the side but the mounting creates the ground path I mentioned as the fitting on the side of the box makes it very tight in a single gang box I would wrap electrical tape around the terminals after you connect the wires again the high side the colors don’t matter if they are the same color.
If the receptacle doesn’t look like it will fit you may need to change to a single receptacle and use one of the knockouts on the top side or bottom side (not the ends as the cover usually caused problems on the ends)
The good news is you now have the correct type of transformer to be mounted on the box.


Old bathroom exhaust fan replacement Hope everyone is safe and well.

My house came with this old bathroom exhaust fan.  The fan works but I feel it is not strong enough for the bathroom as my mirror and bathroom become foggy during a shower.  This fan comes with a light and I have three switches - one activates the fan, the other activates the light, and the third one doesn’t appear to do anything.  I would like to replace this fan with something new and higher CFM, with a light, however, I do not want to replace the housing of the fan.  There is no attic above the fan (flat roof above it) and hence it will be a challenge for me to replace the housing and ensure the venting is properly connected.  Ideally I’m looking to replace the fan motor and light fixture.  I have emailed Broan to see if they have a newer model of the fan I have and they have confirmed that they do not make this model anymore.  I have searched in Home Depot but couldn’t find one.  Any recommendations for me? Can you please help me find a fan that will fit into this housing that I can easily replace.

This looks like the same fan I put in my master bath when I built my house 22 years ago. That fan came with a "life time" warranty, so when I wanted to replace the blower fan I was advised that Broan considered lifetime to be 10 years. I read the warranty words to their representative and asked where in the statement did it say that "lifetime" was defined as 10 years. I was able to get them to send me a replacement squirrel cage fan blade but that was all they would do. Here is what I would do for your fan, remove the motor and the fan blade by taking out the whole metal plate it is mounted too and carefully clean the fan blade. Use a small screw driver and air compressor to remove the built up dirt (there should be a lot) from the cupped vanes, reach up into the air discharge area and make sure that the discharge flapper is free to swing open. Go outside to where the discharge air exits the house and make sure that there is nothing in the discharge duct that will affect the air flow. If the discharge duct is laid horizontally make sure it is laid flat. Mine is laid with-in the soft insulation and has now formed a partial trap in the vent hose. During the winter the high humidity air causes the water to condense a partially block the air flow. My solution is to run the fan for a few hours when no-one is taking a shower to remove some of the built up water in the hose. (do not turn the fan off as soon as your shower is finished). Also as @Ed Beal35 said, make sure that the bottom of the door has a gap. I have found out that the gap should be at least 1/2" and that3/4" is even better. By the way, that 3rd switch is probably for a night light bulb which mine has. Great for night time when you need just a little light. Lastly, that 80 CFM should be large enough for almost any size bathroom.


Ceiling Fan - Single Switch, but Dual Switch installation I have a two switch plate & installed a ceiling fan using dual switch instruction (white/white, black/ungrounded, blue/ungrounded).  Fan & light work fine from one switch, but I learned second switch is for a wall outlet, not the ceiling. Do I have to rewire it for single switch (white/white, black & blue to black ungrounded) or is it fine?

This doesn't make sense:

"Fan & light work fine from one switch...... Do I have to rewire it for single switch "

Do you mean they work fine from there respective switch? If so then your OK to leave it as is. Just remember that the outlet is also controlled when the fan (or light) is on.