use outside air for combustion for gas dryer? why not install in airtight closet,with fresh air intake vent? instead of using your heater or cooled air you've paid $$ for ,why not use outside air for combustion of your  Gas  dryer? Install the dryer in an airtight closet install a  vent for  fresh air that the dryer would  pull  in and of course the normal exhaust gas dryer venting. I'll bet you'd save enough in lower heating  and  cooling  costs to make it worth  the one time trouble.  Any ideas??

In the winter, up north where I live, that would not be a good idea since the air I would need for combustion and to dry the clothes would be extremely cold and would slow up the drying process and require the dryer to run longer. Dryers use a lot of air for both drying the clothes and for the combustion of the nat gas. Also I like the fact that running the dryer will exchange some of the homes air helping to keep the home's atmosphere fresh. Some seemingly good ideas are probably just too good for me. There would probably be no cost savings after this investment.


Electrical wiring, meaning of the term "hots" On this site I have often seen the term "hots" used. With regards to electrical wiring, what does this term refer to? I am aware there is usually a positive, negative, and perhaps (not always) ground wire in home electrical cabling. Not sure what "hots" refers to.

While it's not a perfect analogy, think of this in terms of a kitchen sink (yes, I am throwing a kitchen sink at the question).

The faucet - It's hooked to a pipe that brings water in so you can use it
The drain - A pipe hooked to something that takes water away.

You then interface with the water within the sink.

In your circuit (because electricity requires one to work), you have the same basic thing.

Hot wire - Typically black, this carries current in from your power company. This is your "faucet"
Neutral wire - Carries electricity away to some sort of electrical sink (in most cases, the ground on the main service box). This is your "drain"
Ground - Think of this as a wet/dry vacuum for when your kids play in the kitchen sink and spill water everywhere. Ground soaks up everything that should have gone down the drain but didn't. Since you dump your wet/dry vac down the drain when you're done, it all goes to the same place eventually.

Why do we call it "hot"? Because it burns (sometimes literally) if you touch it while it's energized. It also might lead to dancing, colorful metaphors and other bad things


What screws to use to attached tie-downs from shed roof rafters to top sill? What screws should I  use to attached tie-downs from shed roof rafters to top sill?

You should use the device(either nail or screw) recommended by the manufacturer.

Simpson H10 installs With sixteen 8D x 1-1/2" Nails


Raising porch floor to accommodate plumbing and keep first floor all one level I have a question whether or not building a floor on top of concrete is a viable option to insert plumbing underneath for a half bath.

I am looking to finish a small porch off of my kitchen and turn it into a small powder room and hallway/mud area with an exterior door to the back of the house.

I have had several contractors come out to quote.  This porch is a concrete slab located directly over the basement and it is part of the main house footprint (not an addition and it has basement access underneath) the porch is one step DOWN from the kitchen.

One contractor came up with the idea of raising the floor to the level of where the kitchen is so it looks cohesive (an not an add on) and run the plumbing under the new floor level into the wall at the basement ceiling and then tie into the existing plumbing that way.  He would add new steps/railing outside to the backyard because raising the floor would essentially add a step into the house from the exterior.  The other contractors were just going to leave the step down into the porch and drill through the concrete floor.

Is this a viable option for the plumbing to be placed under a new floor instead of drilling deep down into the porch slab and entering the basement that way?  I would love to not have to step down into the bathroom if possible, but i am just curious why no one else thought of this option...so that's why i am questioning if its a normal way to go.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Lindsay

I generally prefer the same floor level too, but it sounds like this is separate from the plumbing. If either route would let you get the plumbing installed (to code), I don't see any reason not to.  Also keep in mind that you can raise the floor and run the plumbing straight down through drilled holes.

As far as raising the floor goes, the main consideration there wouldn't be the plumbing but whether the ceiling is high enough after you raise your floor 6 inches or so. IBC Section 310.6.1 would require that there be at least 7' clearance to the lowest projection from the ceiling (i.e. the bottom of the light fixture). If space allows and you'd be happier with the result, I'd go for it.


How many wattage is your bathroom electric heater actually? The omni wattmeter can't show power factor. The US KillAWatt meter can? But it doesn't have 240v version so I'm stuck with the only wattmeter in my country.

YouTube video of the wattage measurement

https://youtu.be/mPzP-6Nqt9E

I need to determine maximum wattage that can be drawn because i'm migrating it to subpanel with total whole house GFCI breakers.

Added pictures:

This is the heating elements:

Notice the last 2 were wired shorted. So are these one or two heating elements pair? How is it wired?

This is thermal scan of the heating elements a few seconds after turning on the faucet.

It shows all are energized.

This is the reading in the plug-in wattmeter showing 1278 Watts while the faucet is turned on and thermal scanner on.

This is top left side of heating elements showing the thermal cutoff fuse (once it tripped and the technician taught me how to push it to turn it back on):

This left side of it showing the wires from elements to the circuit:

This is front of it:

Zoomed out view:

What kind of usage that you can enable the entire 6000watts of heater element? I can't seem to get the wattage in my WattAMeter. Is it an overated heater? Based on the internal parts. Which one is the heating elements? I want to know how many there are. Also if it's really 6000watts/240v= 25A, the plug is only rated for 15A and could melt.

It's a Multipoint electric heater in bathroom. Since it has no EGC, it's connected to a GFCI breaker. I'm trying to estimate the wattage actually used. I plugged a KillAWatt meter to measure wattage consumption. It has at most only 1800 Watts maximum at all temperature which is about 1800/240v= 7A. Although it averages 1200 Watts most of the time. I have two of these exact units so it can't be both are defective. They heat well. But the specs of the heater says it is 6kW. Why is the meter showing smaller value of the wattage?  Also the temperature setting is supposed to just control water flow, right? I used medium and maximum setting, the wattage didn't change. What wattage did you actually measure and what is the theoretical one that should come out?

This is its specs:

http://zetaorion.com/alpha-electric/product/vizz-98-e-ep/

click 98EM (M for Multipoint which I have)

I doubt anything drawing 8kW is going to have a plug, but if it did it would be a very large plug like an electric stove or clothes dryer.  That said, these heaters typically have multiple heating elements.  It's possible that not all the elements are turning on based on the water flow or that some of the elements are bad.

From what I could find on that product, it seems to be sold in Malaysia.  If it was sold in the US, it would have a label or plate that listed the electrical requirements on the back or on the inside of the wiring cover.  I'm not sure if that's true in your part of the world, but I would look for such a label rather than relying on information from the internet.  For simple devices like a heater, those electrical requirement labels tend to be accurate.

Edit based on internals:

The large copper "tank" on the right is the heating unit, and there seems to be only one.  The label indicates that it could use up to 6000 watts at 240v. The label in the bottom right also seems to indicate 6kW is required.  To me, that indicates that the wiring going to the device should be rated to handle 6kW (25 Amps).  If the plug it's going to is protected by a 15A breaker, then you wouldn't have to worry about melting wire - you would just trip the breaker if too much power was used.

The two tubes at the bottom would be the water inlet and outlet.  There might be a flow sensor on the inlet side behind the bracket.  The wires connected to the bottom of the heating unit look to be a high-temperature cutoff switch that's common on heating appliances - or even just a temperature sensor.

The copper stubs at the top of the tank are the ends of the heating elements.  It's hard to tell, but it looks like there might be 4 stubs which would be the two ends of two heating elements.  Because there are so many wires going to the top, there could be some multi-stage electronically controlled magic going on that only uses the current needed to heat the water to a set temperature.  Incoming water temp and flow rate could determine the amount of power needed.

The black box with the two red wires on top of the heating element might be some type of high-pressure cutoff.  I don't think you would need red, thick wires for a temperature or flow sensor.


Stiffen Floor with bridging between open web floor Trusses? The subfloors in my new construction home are pretty squeaky and there is a good amount of deflection. I am looking at some simple DIY things that I can do hopefuly reduce the bounce and squeaks. Most of my basement ceiling is drywalled, but there are a few places where it is open.
The first thing I plan to try is to look for gaps between subfloor and the support system to shim in some pieces.
I also read about adding metal bridging. When looking at this article, I noticed I have a different type of joist system - open web floor trusses so I wanted to see if the same fix applies since I do not see any existing bridging. The article mentioned something about approval: Don’t add bridging to manufactured lumber like I-joists or truss joists until you consult an engineer or building inspector. and I am not sure if this applies to me or not? I also see a few places where they sistered some wood and those cracked. I'm not 100% on all the terms, so I don't want to google and use the wrong techniques. There is also a lot of board separation above the subfloor - I mention this in case it is also relevant.
Here are some photos, I would like to know recommendations and other techniques that may be appropriate for this area. I have a few areas where pipes run along the support system.

No, do not add bridging between open web floor trusses. @Jasen is exactly correct.
Bridging, blocking, etc. does not add much strength for bending anyway. It would be better to add a bearing wall or reduce the span if possible. However, you can’t just add a bearing wall without having the manufacturer verify where it will need to be installed. Then, of course , you’ll need a footing, etc.
Open web trusses are designed so that the top chord is in compression ONLY, the bottom chord is in tension ONLY and the diagonal chords are either in tension or compression ONLY.
When additional blocking, bridging, etc. is added, it allows forces to be transferred from truss to truss. This action is called “double bending”. That is to say one of the chords could be in tension and the additional bridging could cause the chord to be in bending...tension and compression. That additional tension could exceed the allowable stress of the member or the connector.
You have open web trusses not I-joists, but the effect is similar. The additional bridging, etc. could transfer additional loads that exceed the web strength, chord strength, or the glue strength between the web and chords.
You’ll need to consult the truss manufacturer to see where additional bridging, etc. can be added. (I doubt a structural engineer will assist you because they didn’t design the connectors. )


Do I need a moisture barrier when insulating a metal roof with compressed Styrofoam? I have a cabin with a metal roof and plywood underlay and want to use compressed Styrofoam to insulate between the rafters.

Do I need a moisture barrier and how would I install this?

If by Styrofoam, you mean rigid foam insulation like this or this you do not need to add a vapor barrier as the rigid Styrofoam sealed with chemical sheathing tape like this will do the same job.

The important point is that any an all seams are sealed by the tape to create a water, and air tight seal.


Adding a C wire and fixing White vs Red on my Furnace TLDR: I think I need to flip R and W wires, and to splice the blue (C) wire to the brown wire coming of the transformer. Is this correct?

Long version:

Like many others on here, I'm trying to add a C wire to my thermostat, and to my furnace so that I can use a smarter thermostat.

The thermostat has the red and white wires connected to their respective R and W terminals.  The blue wire is present, but not connected.

According to my understanding of how thermostats are supposed to work, the R wire is supposed to be connected to 24v, while the W wire is energized only when the thermostat is calling for heat.

On my furnace, however, P3-9, the always-energized 24v wire, which is white, connects to T2, which is connected to the W terminal on the thermostat, and P3-7, the 'energized with heat wire' is red, but is connected to the R terminal.

Shouldn't these be switched?

Using battery power it doesn't matter, but I'm concerned that if I add a smart thermostat I'll need this to be correct.

Similarly, I believe that I can splice the Brown wire that goes from opposite the white wire on the transformer to P2-2 to the terminal block and then to the B wire going to the thermostat.

Is this correct?

I've annotated the wiring diagram with what I think are the correct fixes.

The only things you need is a tap from Pink to connect to the B common wire and to flip the red and white wires on the Thermostat terminals: block.

Write down a big W above the T1 conn. and R below the T2 conn. label so you or whoever has to look at it later doesn't get confused.


what is a reasonable amount of condensate water produced by my pump? I have a Ruud hi-efficiency furnace and also a Ruud tankless hot water system, both with condensate lines running down to the pump.

My problem is... the pump runs (intermittently) ALL day long..lol.. it will fill up the laundry tub if I put the plug in... I can't tell if it's the furnace producing the excess condensate or the tankless heater.

Suggestions?!

thanks in advance!

It doesn’t seem possible to me for the furnace to produce excess condensate, it’s just a matter of how much hydrogen is in the fuel and how much fuel is burned.  The water heater at least has a source of water - if there’s a leak in the heat exchanger it could combine with the condensate.  Can you move one of the drain lines out of the pump, and drain it into a bucket to see how much you get from that source?


Would bullet proof glass help deter burglars? How does it compare to normal glass? We consider buying an apartment, which has previously been used as a shop. Our only concern is that it has large windows (2,5 meters x 2,5 meters), which would function like an invitation to burglars. I am thinking that we could buy bullet-proof glass to make it much more difficult for burglars, though, I have never heard about anyone doing this, and I have not been able to find any shops selling such glass. Therefore, I was wondering whether bullet-proof glass of this size would really help against burglars, and what we would be talking about with regards to price compared to ordinary glass (are we talking about hundreds of thousands of dollars per window or just a few thousands)?

EDIT: I am not so worried about economic loss, this is more an issue of whether I would actually get out of bed if I heard strange noises in the apartment at night.

There is a product called Window Security Film which is a thin (a couple mm) film that adheres to the window and makes it exceptionally difficult for someone to break.  Many lock smiths/security companies can install it.   Here's a video of it in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYdVK3BqPfk

One of the biggest "problems" with it however is that because it's invisible, people will still try to break the glass.  For this reason, often it is installed along with window bars since this provides a visual deterent, but they are pretty ugly for residential installs.


Main fuse blows, individual fuses do not Recently I moved into a 4 year old house. The house has two 40 amp board on separate systems. One of the system's main fuse switch has been blowing recently as a high power tool is inserted into any outlet. The tool turns on for 1 second and dies when the main, not the individual, fuse is triggered. This is odd as that this just happened recently, and any recent electrical changes were undone to trace the failure to no success.

In places where people say "knicked by the bohrdrill", it's common practice to use whole-house ground fault detectors (they say residual current devices) in the main panel (they say fuse box).

The two 40A boards is not weird in 230V land.  They bring 3-phase ~400V power down the block, 230V to neutral.  Having two boards means he is getting 2 phases.

In American style per-circuit GFCIs, it matters a lot when you cross up neutrals between circuits.  A whole-house GFCI/RCD won't care about neutral mixing among circuits out of that panel. ** But two whole-house GFCIs will care a great deal if circuits from the two panels have their neutrals crossed.  That is also super bad because of the 400V potential between the two hots.

I gather this recent work has to do with adding the second panel and moving any circuits over to it?   That will expose any crossed neutral problems.

Of course, crossing any hot to any ground, or any neutral to any ground, will also trip RCDs.

Sometimes the problem is only provoked when current flows, e.g. Neutral-Ground crosses.   In that case some current is going down the wrong wire.  With no load, half of 0 is 0 and that won't trip an RCD.

** Note that neutral mixing is still bad, since neutrals don't have fuses and rely on the overcurrent protection from their partner hot.


How do I dig out a hole for fence posts in a concrete patio? I'm installing a short fence to run from the side of my house to the external garage. It will run along a seam where my asphalt driveway meets my concrete patio. I'm fairly certain that the footers will have to be on the concrete side in order to keep the fence from sticking out of from the side of the house.

My question is, is there a good way to dig the holes into the patio without having to break up the entire slab and re-pour it? Also, once I've dug the holes, is there something special I need to do when I set the footers in concrete since the concrete will be joined with the exiting patio?

EDIT:

I just wanted to clarify. I'm installing a wooden fence because the rest of the yard already has a wooden fence that I'm trying to match so I'm trying to avoid using chain-link.

What you want is something like this:

Get some Red-Heads or other appropriate concrete bolt and fasten it down.  Slip the 4x4 in and tighten it up.

Ideally, you should still have some posts properly embedded in the ground to help support the torque caused by someone leaning on the fence, but you can use these in between.


Can concrete demo material be used as fill behind same project? I am demolishing the old outdoor steps at the rear of my house, built circa 1955. I have discovered that they are not constructed on the ground surface, but sit upon a concrete block structure about 4 feet deep. Underneath the steps is an empty, 4-foot deep pit.

I plan to have a concrete patio surface poured over the area.

Can I demolish the steps into the empty pit, essentially filling with the demo material? Or will the broken concrete and blocks be too unstable a base to build upon later?

Sure, that's fine. The rubble will act as aggregate, and new concrete will bind the it all together into a monolithic mass. This was standard practice back in the day, in fact. And castle walls were built this way too. You'll be just fine; just try to smash the old steps into smaller rather than larger pieces.


Run electric from breaker box in house 150 feet to garage, only need 110, 10 receptacles and 6 lights What gauge wire is needed, and what size breaker

As for wire size, you did not say what loads you want to run.  Here is a calculator tool - enter your cable run (150ft) not the round trip (300ft).  The breaker in your main panel is sized to protect that wire.   Think about upsizing - wire or conduit is cheap, labor and digging are not.

If direct burial, USE-2 or UF.  If in conduit, THWN single-wire.   Price the various wires but you may be better off in conduit and pulling just the size of THWN that you need.  Lay extra large conduit so the next guy can pull bigger wire if he wants to.

You must use correct colors of THWN wire.  White or gray for neutral,  green or bare for ground,  anything else for hot.  No remarking allowed, except mark all you like on #4 or larger wire.

Aside from what Tyson suggests, a good reason to have a sub-panel is so your lights are on a different circuit than your tools.  Nothing is worse than tripping the breaker and plunging into darkness with your fingers 2” from a spinning blade.  Also, outlets cannot have larger than a 20A breaker, so if you ever want to provision more than 20A of service out there, e.g. For a dust collector, you'll want a second circuit and therefore a sub-panel. Demand can sneak up on you.

On the sub-panel, price several larger sizes and get the one with the most spaces that you can bear.  No homeowner ever said "I have too many spaces in this panel".  Its OK to run a 60A or 125A sub-panel on a 30A breaker in the main panel.

If you want to run 120V only, just do the sub-panel in the normal way and don't hook up one of the hots. Every other breaker row will be dead.  Who cares, just don't put breakers there.


Extending a Range 50a line Matching Wire? We are moving our range across the kitchen and need to extend the 50a 6/2 line which has an aluminum ground.  The only line the home store had was 6/2 wire with 10awg copper ground.  Can I use that or do I need to find identical wire?  I am planning to use a large junction box and have large wire nuts to join the wires.  Really don't want to replace the whole line.

Completely unusable.  It was installed illegally from the start, and it’s illegal even if you didn’t move the range.
Once upon a time (prior to the mid 1990s) it was legal to install a range with certain special 3-wire cables. You could never have used /2+ground cable.   You could have used:

Cable with an insulated white neutral (i.e. /3 no ground).  But of course that quickly went extinct after grounding started to be required in the 1960s.
SE cable specifically, which is made for service entrances, and has a “meshed” bare conductor which is actually designed to be neutral.  However that stopped having a reason to exist in #8/#6 after power companies stopped offering 60A service and set 100A as minimum.

NFPA’s purpose was to allow suppliers to use up their old stock of the above cables... and after that, everyone would be forced to use /3+ground.  Well, some installers thought that gave them permission to use /2+ground.  They were wrong.
Not least, the ground wire is too small to be safe as a neutral.
So the whole homerun needs to be dropped in the dust-bin, and re-run from scratch with proper wire.
You can run it in aluminum if you really, really want to... that’s not the issue... but it has to be /3+ground, and it has to be a 4-wire connection. You have no grandfathering and it must be done to modern spec.


question about supplying gas via multiple lines to a water heater We moved into a new construction home a few months ago. The house has what I believe are 1/2 inch flexible gas lines running from a basement manifold to various appliances (water heater, two different HVAC furnaces, fireplace, dryer, and cooking range).

The builder apparently should have used 3/4 inch line to run to the water heater, which is I believe a 200,000 BTU unit. However, they screwed up on our place and several others, running the same 1/2 inch lines throughout. This caused the water heater to be starved for gas, and it wasn't able to keep up with more than one hot water tap being open.

The distance between the gas manifold in the basement and the water heater is about as great as it could be (water heater lives in a closet on the 4th floor on the opposite side of the house). So obviously ripping out the existing line behind all that sheet rock across 5 stories would be no small feat.

What the builder has done as a solution is to install a t-junction at the 1/2 inch gas line feeding one of the two HVAC heaters (which is on the 3rd floor, directly beneath the water heater). They brought this new 1/2 inch branch up through the floor, and combined it with the existing 1/2 inch line already there. So, the water heater now has effectively a gas line of 1 inch (minus whatever gas might be lost to the in-line HVAC system).

We've tested this setup for the past week, and it does allow us to run multiple hot showers at the same time. I have noticed that if we really stress the system (3 showers running plus kitchen tap with furnaces on), the furnace seems starved for gas and blows room temperature air. However, this would be an extreme usage scenario. We don't run that upstairs furnace much and wouldn't normally have that many taps going.

The builder is wanting to know how this setup is working out. They're banking on our ignorance. What I'm most interested to know is whether there are any safety or regulations compliance issues with the way they have jerry-rigged this setup.

Thank you for reading!

The first thing to ask yourself is this: do you want this solution to work, or do you want the job "done right?" The builder doesn't have to tear out the 1/2" line -- it could be abandoned in place. He would have to install a new section of properly-sized tubing, though. Consider whether you're willing to deal the logistics of that. It'll require cutting access holes through the drywall probably at the top and bottom of a wall in each level of the house and possibly some ceiling holes too. After the new tubing is installed all those openings will have to be repaired and the finishes blended. The contractor may begrudge being forced to do the work and, depending on his integrity, may not willingly give it his best.

The parallel pipes solution definitely feels weird even if it is functional. If you have doubts about this fix you can call in your local building official. If he rejects the work then that's that -- it'll have to be fixed or they'll revoke the occupancy permit for the house. Clearly that puts strong leverage on the builder to make the repair. You could also check with the technical service department of the manufacturer of the gas tubing.

There is a way to make the 1/2" tubing work: increase the gas pressure. You didn't mention which type of gas you're using nor in which country you're located, but I'll presume natural gas and USA. Natural gas appliances are generally designed for 1/4 PSI inlet pressure and gas utilities normally install a 1/4 PSI regulator at their meter. However, the gas utility could install a higher-pressure regulator - likely 2 PSI. Your builder could then install 1/4 PSI regulators inside the house. There could be one at each appliance or appliance group, for example. Be aware that the gas utility may charge a higher monthly "base charge" on your bill. In my area it costs about US$5/month more to have a 2 PSI service instead of a 1/4 PSI service.


recessed light only works with halogen bulb? My husband and I just moved into a new home and have found that we have two different types of recessed light fixtures. One of types only works with a specific type of halogen flood light bulbs and multiple attempts to buy new bulbs have not resulted in finding a new bulb that will work in the fixture.

The label inside the fixture says " Use only PAR-30 Reflector type lamps 75 watts maximum".  The bulb that works says PEC PAR38 FL 130V 90W and appears to be halogen with a large brass base.  We haven't been able to find replacement bulbs that work in this fixture.  Does anyone have any advice on how to figure out what bulbs will work in this fixture?

We'd really appreciate any help.  Thanks.

It may be a dimensional issue.

Incandescent/halogen typically have a long narrow stem.  CFLs put a pudgy power converter module right at the bottom. Some LEDs unnecessarily do the same since CFLs do.

Often the socket proper is recessed behind a shield or something.  When you're screwing in a CFL, it grabs a couple of threads then the power converter strikes and binds against that shield. It feels like the socket has bottomed out snug, when actually the bottom contacts are not touching.   And the bulb just doesn't turn on!

Check out your fixtures, but I bet that's what is going on.  You can change the fixture, alter the fixture, or shop smartly for long-neck LED "bulbs".

You probably won't find them in CFL, nor should you look.  CFLs are entirely obsolete. What's more, CFLs are particularly unsuited for aimed PAR lighting since they make a blurry clump of non-directional light which cannot be focused via reflectors or lenses.  LEDs are the ideal case, as they inherently make a cone of light which is easily focused further via optics, which are near 100% efficient.


Does a pressure tank need to be near the water fixtures? Currently my well only feeds my house, which contains the pressure switch and tank. The well is about 300-400 feet away from the house. I need to hook up some water troughs and an outbuilding whose water supplies run straight to the well. I'm thinking that it would be best to put the pressure switch and tank right next to the well. Is this the proper way to handle such a situation or am I missing something important? Also, would it be wise to have a pressure tank in the house and outbuilding as well (three tanks total) to get good pressure at each building, or is this unnecessary? Thank you.

only if you have a line that 400 feet away from your tank that is 1/4 of a inch. you will have two problems. one is that you use to much water for your pump to keep up with. second at a give presser your flow rate will be maxed out due to the size pipe you have. so if you have a 1/4 size pipe. you wont have any flow. because it will take alone time for water to flow. now if you really want some flow. put a 12 inch pipe to your buildings. still just having the one tank. but to be real for a second, just install a 1 inch line to the buildings. unless you have a 5 inch spout the one inch line will do you fine. to answer your question if your tank stays at the pressure 80 pounds. your only reason of no flow would be the pipe size. you want more flow. get a bigger pipe


Moving bathroom fan on GFCI outlet I am replacing my bathroom ventilation fan and moving it right above the shower area. According to code Fan needs to be on GFCI now.
Please take a look at picture near vanity wall.
On Left there are two switches, one for fan and one for light.
On right side, there is a GFCI outlet.
Currently, neither of the switches are on GFCI.
Although on same breaker circuit, GFCI outlet and switches are getting power from different lines (red lines in pictures)
There is a wall cavity between switch box and outlet box.
I am thinking of fishing short length of 14/2 NM cable (green line in 2nd picture)between switch box and outlet box and feed power to 2nd switch (for fan) from load side of GFCI outlet. This way fan will be protected by GFCI. No change for light switch wiring.
1st picture shows current wiring.
2nd picture shows proposed wiring.
Red lines are supply lines.
All cables are 14/2 NM cables.
Please let me know if I can do this or not.
I am not sure if there are any violations in my plan.
If you can also explain how I should connect neutral and ground wires coming from green line to 2nd switch , I would really appreciate.
Current wiring

Proposed wiring

Additional details
Fan make/model : Broan-NuTone AE80B
GFCI outlet is on 15 amps breaker circuit.
GFCI outlet doesn't feed any other outlets. Only wire goes in it is supply line.

Consider the switch and fan as a system.  Together, if we ignore the wires that interconnect them to each other, they are inputting 1 hot wire and 1 neutral wire.  Both those wires need to be attached to the LOAD side of one GFCI device.
That's it.
In your question, you are claiming that power comes to the switch first, then proceeds to the fan via an entirely separate /2 cable than is used by the light.  Obviously if those facts are untrue, then this advice is void.
Replace the fan switch with a  GFCI switch... and yer done.
A GFCI switch looks like a GFCI receptacle, but with no sockets.
The Test/Reset buttons are re-cast to be "Off/On" buttons.  This is UL approved.
Or... pull off that receptacle if that circuit serves ONLY this bathroom
The problem is recent NEC revisions have required bathroom receptacle circuits be dedicated to receptacles.  There's one exception for receptacle circuits which serve only one bathroom - those can be tapped for hardwired loads in the bathroom.
"But my house should be 'grandfathered', since it was built prior to that rule".  Um, no... by that logic an 1865 house wouldn't need to follow any electrical codes at all.  What is the case is that work permitted under a particular Code revision only needs to comply with that Code revision.  However, if Code changes, new work such as this must comply with current Code at the time it is permitted.  In short, you can't make a grandfathered situation worse.  You can't add new hardwired loads onto a receptacle circuit that serves more than this one bathroom.


Socket for UK bathroom I want to add a USB socket to the bathroom but when I was checking it said that I could only add a shaver-supply unit.
Since I was adding these to use with my shavers/toothbrush and they are low voltage sockets, I was wondering if it counted or is it that the standards have not caught up to what we have out there yet?

I think it is in theory possible for a device like this to be designed and certified as a shaver socket in the UK.  I don't think having output voltage of 5V (or 9, etc) would disqualify it.  I do not however think this particular device has been designed or certified to "shaver socket" standards for use in a bathroom and I don't think such a thing exists.  You should probably install an actual shaver socket, and plug in a regular USB phone charger cube.
I'm generally not a fan of USB chargers wired into the wall because they quickly become incompatible with the charging needs of newer devices, eg QC2, PD, ETC.  A shaver socket and your device charger will give you safety, charging speed and functionality, and future compatibility.
EDIT: Most people can stop reading now.  Adding to my answer that "charging speed" and future compatibility are not unbounded.  A shaver socket may, by the standard, deliver at most 50W but a manufacturer may limit it to as little as 20W within the standard for shaver sockets.  A 20W shaver socket should easily feed a USB charger that comes with a shaver or toothbrush.    It will not however charge most new (in 2021) smartphones at their maximum speed.  A 50W shaver socket will charge any phone or tablet that I am aware of (in 2021) at its maximum speed, along with any other QC2 or QC3 device.  But QC4 and future standards require more than 50W and PD is already capable of 100W output (which will draw more from the AC source)  so don't expect to charge your 15" gaming laptop in the bathroom (as if you needed another reason not to leave your laptop in the bathroom).


Installing Nest on Viconics P117 Board I couldn't find any help on forums or websites if anyone may have tried to install Nest by replacing old Viconics P117 Board and E117 thermostat. I have an Electric Furnace and Heat Pump configuration. I have already brought the Nest 3rd generation and couldn't get it running. My system have only 3 wires connected in Thermostat(All other colour wire are note connected). I am adding the system diagram here so that you can look and suggest if I can make any wiring changes. Please help. Could only find manual in French.

Final Configuration on Nest

It looks like the P117 + E117 was an intelligent system. Sort of like a NEST, but in 2 parts. This is different from the typical (in the US at least) thermostat where the thermostat - whether an old Honeywell dial, a typical digital setback thermostat, or a newfangled NEST - communicates to the HVAC equipment using a fairly standard set of wires. From the NEST manual:

Heating: one, two, and three stages (W1, W2, W3)
Cooling: one and two stages (Y1, Y2)
Heat pump: with auxiliary and emergency heat (O/B, AUX, E)
Fan (G)
Power (C, RH, RC)
Humidifier or dehumidifier (HUM, DEHUM)

You can actually see some of these wires in the P117/E117 diagram. For example, the upper right shows connections to C/X (the /X doesn't match NEST), R, G, W2; the right shows C, R, O/B, Y, W.

The problem is you can't just rip out the P117 and E117 and put in the NEST because you only have a 3-wire connection (which is all two computers need to talk to each other - equivalent to an old serial port send/receive/ground). You will likely need to find a way to run a new cable with more wires from the actual HVAC equipment directly to the NEST and then you can remove BOTH the P117 and E117.

Based on your comment that you already have a cable with the standard colors, you need to:

Find and label all connections from your HVAC equipment to the P117.
Replace all the connections from the P117 with the appropriate thermostat cable wires.
Connect the NEST to the matching wires.

One critical piece is power. If I understand the diagram correctly, power is supplied on C/X and R in the upper right. The NEST needs power and that is listed as C, RH, RC. So C/X --> C and probably R to your choice of RH or RC. But I can't say for sure. The good news is that it looks like the C/X - R is 24V AC, which is standard for the US.


Bathroom ceiling absorbs moisture and falls apart After complaining about this, I had a guy repaint the ceiling. There is a window but it doesn't fix what is a damp bathroom. A short 15 minute shower cracked the new repainted ceiling because all the steam gets absorbed by it. We were about to install a fan in the windows but I doubt it will solve the problem because the steam rises up pretty fast and not at the windows direction.

What's the problem, the paint or the windows?

From what I can see about the paint, it peels off the ceiling, revealing a grey smooth drywall. And I don't particularly live in a humid environment so why is this bathroom so problematic.

I think at this point it's safe to say the drywall above the shower is shot, and now you're going to need to replace it all.  While you're in there, install a proper exhaust fan.  Yes, I know that's exactly what you don't want, and that you're trying to cheap this out, but that hasn't worked, and you've given "cheap" the full tryout.  All "cheap" has done is nickel and dimed you to death.

Working with this bathroom as-it-is would require very different bathroom discipline.  It might work for other people.  It doesn't work for you (or other family members). You just don't have the patience.  Get the exhaust fan.


Plumbing a dual kitchen sink path This dual kitchen sink is causing a bunch of problems, mainly clogging up at the S bend.
I am a complete noob when it comes to plumbing, have never plumbed anything before and have no knowledge about pathing pipes etc. I hope someone can suggest a better path or an easy-ish fix to get better flow and not have the thing clog every 6 months.
The distance of the long dark gray pipe is around 50cm (~20in). Due to how far the outlet (?) is I'm guessing that's why the S bend (?) is all the way at the back so that it's easier to fit stuff underneath the sink. Is it possible to re-plumb the S bend and have it less prone to clogging, or does the entire path need to be redone?
Previously this sink had a garbage disposal system that eventually died and was converted to just be a dual sink. The left side apparently has missing hardware that prevents it from being connected to the sink itself, but that's a problem for a later time..
As I have no institutional knowledge, if you suggest something please provide a link to parts or a drawing so I have a visual reference, I really have no idea what I'm doing. With COVID still rampant getting a plumber to fix something this "trivial" is almost impossible from calling a dozen or so plumbers :(

You should be able to move the trap to directly under and between the sinks. In place of the tee going into the horizontal grey pipe install a tee that goes straight down and attach your P trap. Then run your grey pipe horizontally (1/4" per foot slope required) into the top of the drain with a 90 degree elbow.
I don't believe there are any code issues with connecting to the drain with a 90 degree elbow but if so one of the pros here will catch it.


How do I tighten a PVC fitting in a narrow space behind a sink? I've recently replaced the tap and handles in an old bathroom sink. It turned out to be a bit of a pain because the bolts holding the sink in are rusted into the besser block wall - the bolt head just snapped off the first bolt I tired to unscrew. I decided to leave the sink as is and just try and replace the tap and handles like that. I managed, but now I'm having a really hard time tightening up the PVC pipe fitting under tap because it's in such a tight position.

So my question is, are there any techniques or tools for tightening up such things when they're in such a tight place? I have 3 cm or less space in any given direction due the wall on one side and surrounding sink.

You want a basin wrench. It cams sort of like a pipe wrench, so it should be able to grip almost anything. Insert the handle from the other side to cam the other direction.


What to use between tiles and door? I'm seeing this sort of interface where grout has been placed between the wall tiles and the door jamb.

Is that the best material to use? Why not silicone? And how about aluminium angle trim? Or is that just over the top and too visually intrusive?

... is that just over the top and too visually intrusive?

Yes, but that would be opinion; beauty is in the eye of the beerholder

  Why not silicone?

Caulking would be better here (not necessarily silicone) because of vibration induced cracking of hard grout (as seen in your picture). The problem with caulk is color matching, that's why I would use paintable caulk and carry the door jamb paint over the caulk and up to the tile line.


How can I cut a bolt off flush with concrete in a corner? I've got the top of an old rusty bolt sticking out the ground in a corner (see image) I've tried flattening it with a heavy hammer. Can't get a hacksaw in there. Suggestions for leveling that bolt to the surface?

Since it appears to be in dirt, dig it out would appear to be an option. If there's actually concrete under the dirt, chisel it out is still an option.

I'm unclear as to how that's not accessible to a hacksaw - looks plenty accessible to me. Other than a hacksaw, a sawzall (reciprocating saw) or angle grinder with cutoff disk are typical powertool approaches. An oxy-acetylene cutting torch would be another way.


How to measure 1/4" per 1' slope for rainwater drainage for a flat roof During the last big rain here in AZ, I noticed a significant amount of ponding in the newly renovated areas of our roof.  I first noticed the sitting water while it was still raining and about 2 days later the water was still present.  I contacted my general contractor, but he's questioning how long the water was present.

Is there a way I can measure the slope of the roof to determine if it is at least at the minimum for a flat roof (1/4" per 1')?

If water is ponding on the roof, there is essentially no continuous slope to the edge.  It doesn't matter what the slope is if the water can't run off the roof.  How long it was there isn't really relevant in my opinion.

But if you want to measure the slope in a localized area, take a level - for convenience, say it's 1 foot long.  Put it on the roof and raise the low end until it reads level.  Now measure the height that you raised that end to make it level.  That's you're slope.

So if you lifted it 3/4", that would be 3/4" rise per foot of run.

If you had a 3' level and lifted it the same 3/4" to get level, you'd have 1/4" rise per foot of run.


Nut size of earth stud on a can light This should be a simple to answer but I am not sure how to phrase it for google.

For a standard recessed light (aka can-light) in the US, what is the nut/thread size of the earth stud on the inside of the unit?  This is the stud that accepts the flying lead earth from the light fixture.

OK ..I Just found it by looking online at the instructions of the LED kits I have been buying.  The nut I was looking for is

  No. 8-32 Hex Nut


What should I do with the airflow in a sealed off conditioned crawlspace First and foremost thanks ahead of time for everyone's help :)
I am in the process of finishing my basement and had some questions/concerns about "what to do with the air" in my crawlspace. In my basement I have access to a conditioned crawlspace:

No venting to the outside
Cemented floor
Insulation (where insulation can be used)
Spray foam (where foam could be used)

I added a picture which shows a top level view of my basement.
(Note: the drywall is not up yet but will be as soon as I figure this out).
The idea is I want to drywall the opening to my crawlspace and have one door which acts as the only entry point.
The crawlspace is fully conditioned and has an HVAC duct running through it which feeds other areas in the home. My question is what do I do with the airflow in this crawlspace?

Do I add a small vent from my HVAC duct to supply air from the HVAC system to the crawlspace?
Should I add a dehumidifier to be safe?
Where I am putting my drywall up to block off the crawspace should I add vent holes or anything?
Does the crawlspace need a return?

Side notes:

My crawlspace is ~1500sqft
Its located in Virginia
It has a interior french drain/sump pump installed (if that makes any difference)

Thanks everyone - I am by no means a professional so apologies if my terminology is off or incorrect.

Sounds a lot like my son's new house.

Since you already have an HVAC duct that runs through the crawl space just add a register to that duct. My guess is that unless you're actually going to seal the crawl space and make it air tight relative to the rest of the basement, you'll have enough leakage around the access door so that no additional return is needed.

I don't think the dehumidifier is needed with the air from the HVAC system.  In my son's house, the crawlspace is open to the rest of the house.  To be honest, it's a bit more than just a crawlspace in that the height is ~5 ft, but still with a concrete floor and insulated and sealed walls.


I need to install a lockbox in a refrigerator to keep a medicine locked up. What is the best way to do that? I need to install a lockbox in my refrigerator to store a medicine.
It must not be attached to anything that can be easily removed.
What's the best way to do this

I had the same problem with my mother who was unable to remember how often she was taking pain medications.  The solution was a locking "cash box" from a local office supply store.
The medications were in the box, which fit nicely into the refrigerator and was easily removed.  I kept one key and the other key was in a "realtor" style lock box on the front door that the visiting nurse had the combination to.  So the nurse gave her the meds in the morning and I gave them to her in the evening.
Obviously this is not highly secure but for an elderly person it was secure enough.


Is this a plunge router? This is a second hand router that I would like to buy. I am not sure if by the description on the package this is a plunge router or not

Yes, this is a plunge router. Note in particular the second photo,which shows the adjustable depth stop rod and the turret beneath it which allows progressively stepping the bit deeper in successive passes until it reaches the intended depth.

The fact that the base is attached via two smooth rods that guide the plunge also makes this fairly obvious.


Preparing surface when tiling over existing tiles I'm retiling our bathroom and intend to tile over the top of the existing floor tiles. The floor is in fair condition at the moment with no cracking except in one place which I did myself and will fill before tiling.

Apart from cleaning off the tiles with sugar soap, is there any special preparation I need to do to the existing floor, such as scuffing the tiles for the cement or filling in the existing grout? I've never done any tiling before.

Step 1: Remove existing fixtures (toilet, sink, etc.)
Step 2: Remove existing tile.
Step 3: Determine if existing sub floor is appropriate for tile.
Step 3 a: Replace existing sub floor (if necessary).
Step 3 b: Install appropriate sub floor.
Step 4: Install new tile.
Step 5: Reinstall fixtures.
Step 6: Enjoy your new bathroom for years to come.

This may not be the answer you are looking for, but to do the job right (in my opinion) you should start fresh.

If you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself, you might think about hiring a professional.

I apologizes for the bluntness of my answer; as a home owner myself who has had to fix the messes others have created, in my opinion there is no excuse for not doing a job properly and (as Mike Holmes would say) making it right.

Removing the existing tile will cost you nothing but time, and in the end it will make you feel much better knowing that you can enjoy the remodel for years to come trouble free.


What are the drawbacks to having the bathtub on a different floor from the bedrooms? We are buying a 2-floor house, and are thinking about the layout of the rooms and common spaces. The building company, by default, puts a bathtub on the second floor (where the bedrooms are), while putting a shower in the bathroom on the first floor (where the kitchen and the living room are). Unfortunately, the bathroom on the second floor is smaller than the one downstairs. Hence, we are thinking to ask the company placing the bathtub on the first floor instead.
We have not decided yet, but when looking at the houses around, we've noticed that they all have bathtubs on the second floor and a shower on the first floor. So there might be some reason for that which we do not grasp.
Can anyone help us understand what can be some potential pitfalls of having a bathtub downstairs?
Thanks in advance!

If you plan to stay in the house until you are old, consider what amenities you'd like to have when stairs become difficult, impossible, or risky for your aging self to use. Stair lifts have their limits, and having to move out of your house due to factors you built into it is annoying, if you would otherwise prefer to stay. In some cases this may lead you to choose to build a single-story house rather than a two-story house.
If you don't have long-term plans, make your choices as you will.
There are many "common things" that either never made sense, made sense only in the age of "hired help" or "roving bandits," or that only are "common" in one part of the world and not others. Try to look at them with a fresh eye when you get to build the house, rather than following "the norm" blindly.
To wit:

Bedrooms on the second floor - harder to get out in the case of a
fire, which you are already at disadvantage for from being asleep. Second floor views are generally better for the living spaces. Bands of marauding peasants breaking in downstairs and being held off at the stairwell by sword-wielding inhabitants is a bit outdated as reasons go, but there you are.
"Laundry in the basement" = sure, when it goes down the chute you
can't now have for fire regulations to the laundress you don't employ who
gets to carry it back upstairs. The bulk of laundry is generated at and used in bedrooms, and the laundry processing should be near those and the bathroom(s) near them for efficient plumbing and not dragging most of the laundry around the house needlessly. In my area second floor bedrooms and basement laundry are the norm. It's nuts. Quiet machines, sound insulation, and/or scheduling use deal with the "noise of the machines while I'm sleeping" reason sometimes trotted out for locating them inconveniently. In other places, laundry in the bathroom is the norm.
Who the heck decreed that shower/tub must share the room that the toilet/WC is in? They are both plumbing, and plumbing inside the house is a relatively new concept that humans are very slowly adapting to, so they got thrown in together when running those new-fangled pipe things into the existing house. Then that carried over into new houses. They are not the same, and making use of one block the other is at times VERY inconvenient. The privy/outhouse did not have a bathtub in it...
No doubt other things that are not coming to mind at the moment...


How can I make MDF more resistant panels? I have fallen in love with textured MDF panels used to make walls.

Oh boy that's beautiful. But raw, it's almost impossibly fragile. The question is :  How can I make it harder, stonger to go through the life?  Should I give it 2 primer coats and paint? mix something in the primer? I have NO idea, and am a little worried.

MDF is actually a pretty durable material, and these panels should certainly hold up to occasional hand touch.  However, if furniture or other hard objects get banged up against the panel it would be possible to damage any crisp edges, and I don't think there is any finish you can apply to prevent that type of damage from occurring.  The finish will make it easier to clean and act as a barrier for moisture.

I think that spraying the finish would definitely be the way to go no matter if you go with clear coat, paint or anything else, since brush marks would detract from the pattern.  Considering the cost of the panels, that you probably would prefer to finish them in place after they are installed, and how difficult it would be to perform a 'redo' on a panel with texture, you might want to consider hiring out the finishing.  At least experiment on some cheap panels of normal MDF before attempting the real thing.


How do I remove dried spray-can paint from glass? I used a good quality name-brand spray can of 'Paint & Primer' to paint a glass lamp, but after the second coat an 'alligator' texture developed in some areas. I followed the instructions before spraying the second coat, and the temperature was about 76 degrees.  I haven't been successful in removing the paint (the instructions say to use Mineral Spirits - but it is not working, most likely because the paint has dried). Does anyone have any other suggestions? NOTE: Scraping is not an option because of the texture of the glass.

There are citrus based paint removers that are less harsh on humans and surfaces than conventional solvent based strippers. They take a bit longer, but are worth a try.

 Images and links are for illustration only - not an endorsement of a product or source.


Adding another circuit to a full panel I'm looking to add a hot tub, and after my basement build out a few years ago my panel is full.  (By "full" I mean we added a sub panel and now my 400 amps is "technically" spoken for by 400 amps of breakers, though of course our load is never anywhere close to that.)

I'm not unfamiliar with these principles (I wired the basement buildout myself and had my electrician friend and inspector sign off on it.)

What I'm looking for and can't find, likely because I don't know what to look for, is some sort of intelligent switcher or breaker.  Something that would allow me to say, share the 50amp 220 from the clothes dryer with the hot tub, so when the dryer was running the hot tub would be shut off.

I don't want to unsafely overload the panel or make modifications that would get frowned on when the house is sold.  The power company wants thousands of dollars to "upgrade" my feed to 800 amps.  I don't need 800 amps ... I need to safely, legally and automatically share 50 amps between two circuits.

What can I do here?

It is okay to have 800 amps of breakers in a 200 amp service panel.  The reason there is a main breaker (200 amp double pole) is to prevent unsafe usage.

When you run out of physical space, there are several solutions:

Replace some of the main panel breakers with half-widths (two breakers per slot) to create enough space for a new breaker.

Install a sub-panel which is fed by a double breaker in the main panel.

Remove unneeded breakers.  Maybe some circuits are no longer in use.
Replace the breaker panel with a bigger one.


How to install BR30 lights instead of LED I  have LED downlights installed, and I want to use BR30 bulbs. I want to convert this setup to enable BR30.

I have no clue about electricity but I'm willing to learn. Just need a push in the right direction.

I have attached the setup.

The light:

LED Driver:

Connection:

Figured it out. Simply unplug LED driver from the connector, buy a socket, wire the wires that were going from the ceiling-> connector, to ceiling-> new socket.


Do I need OEM filter replacements for a whole home media air purifier? I purchased a home that had a  media air purifier already installed. Specifically, it is the TopTech TechPure TT-MAC-2025 (installation manual).
The manual specifies the filter should be #TT-FM-2025(it appears the manual has a typo), which is MERV 11 . That is the filter currently installed, but it needs to be replaced.
Will I get equivalent performance if I get a non-OEM MERV 11 filter of the same dimensions? I worry that if I don't get the OEM brand it might not fit as well and air could bypass the filter.
The air purifier also specifies that it is upgradable to MERV 15. TopTech happens to only have MERV 11 and MERV 15 filters. But if I go with a non-OEM brand am I free to choose any MERV rating I want <= 15? I'm still worried about air leaks bypassing the filter so I don't get the full benefit of the increased MERV rating. I also worry that a non-OEM filter could cause too great of a pressure drop.
I'm also confused by the language of saying it is "upgradable" to MERV 15. Is the only step to upgrade installating a MERV 15 filter? Or might there be some kind of additional hardware or sealing required?

Yes, you can use OEM filters.  That unit isn't really an "air purifier" (they have good marketing people), it's an add-on filter holder; just a box to hold a large filter.  The filters are standard sizes.  The unit is sized (filter dimensions) based on the allowable pressure drop for the air handler.  So you can put in a third-party filter of the same size and MERV rating as the OEM and it will behave the same.
The 4" thick filter holds a lot more filter media than a 1" filter, which allows it to go longer between changes; 1" MERV 15 filters are available, you just need to replace them more often (but your unit requires a 4" filter).  If you wanted to get into a HEPA filter (what's usually thought of as an air purifier), you generally need a 4" filter for a whole-house size in order to get enough media inside for the needed air flow.  Installing that TechPure unit in your air handler wasn't to make the air cleaner, it was for the convenience of not having to change the filter as often.
MERV 11 isn't really in the range that would typically be called an "air purifier".  That will provide decent filtration for some of the larger common allergens.  It's adequate for most people, including some of those with mild allergies.  Many of the "allergy"-labeled furnace filters are MERV 11 or 12.
People with serious sensitivities, especially to allergens that are very small particles, can benefit from a filter with a MERV 15 rating.  It isn't just that it filters smaller particles, it also does a better job on larger allergens.  It isn't in the HEPA league, but it starts to approach it.
In a residential setting, the justification for going from MERV 15 to HEPA might be a case like a person with a suppressed immune system, who needs air as clean as possible.  But most of the whole-house HEPA filters are installed for a different reason.  They aren't insanely expensive, especially compared to a unit like yours with MERV 15 filters.  Rather than figure out the optimum MERV rating, people just install the top-of-the-line as a simple way to ensure that the air is as clean as possible (HEPA does a better job on particles of all sizes).
Third-party filters  between MERV 11 and 15 will provide a benefit somewhere in-between.  The EPA has a good chart explaining some of the details of the MERV rating.  Grainger has a good chart that covers the MERV ranges and typical applications.  You may find that one manufacturer's MERV 14 filter is cheaper than another manufacturer's MERV 12 filter.  So if you don't have special health requirements, you may be able to just go with the best available deal on a filter above MERV 11 if you want to "upgrade".  Also, the difference in MERV rating is a function of the media in the filter; no other hardware, sealing, or special handling is required (it's plug & play).


Can a occupancy sensor switch and a timer switch be installed in the same three way circuit? I have a car port which has 8 flood lamps installed in the ceiling. I have recently installed an occupancy sensor switch similar to this Lutron Maestro MS-OPS5MH-WH:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_365253-539-MS-OPS5MH-WH___?productId=3531524&pl=1&Ntt=motion+sensor+switch+three+way

It required using a jumper cable at the other end of the switch. Previously, three cables ran to that switch, but the motion sensor docs instructed to combine two of those with a short "jumper" cable it provided with a wire nut, and then run that jumper and the last pre-existing wire to the switch...effectively leaving just two wires connected to the switch.

The intent was to have the occupancy sensor switch the lights on only at night to prevent car break-ins. The switch has a built-in ambient light detector which is supposed to prevent it from operating by day, but it doesn't work well at all, perhaps from the shade provided by the car port cover.

So, I thought I'd try a timer switch on the other side, so I could set the switch to only operate during night hours. I purchased the Intermatic ST01 (http://www.intermatic.com/en/products/timers/inwalltimers/electronic_timers/st01_series). However, this switch requires a similar configuration on the remote end (using a jumper wire to wire the two of the three cables, together, etc).

Is is possible to use these switches in combination? If so, how should one wire this? And if not, could you explain in layman's terms what the jumper wire does and why it's impossible to use two switches which require the jumper wires together?

Thanks!

Keep in mind, you're asking quite a lot  here.  You want a 3-way switch (why?), and a motion sensor, and also a time of day timer only because your sensor is not performing to your satisfaction.   Also you are driving 8 flood lights which I suspect exceeds this sensor's rating.  And you bought a "no neutral" switch which makes me think you don't have a neutral.

Let me be blunt: it isn't gonna happen like that.  It can't.

3-way switch

First, think through this "3-way" business. How is that supposed to work? If you throw that switch, will the light come on for 5 minutes? All night? Forever?   If it's already on, does it turn off and if so, when does it revert back to sensor control?  What if you throw the switch in the daylight?  You're pretty much at the mercy of the motion sensor to define what that does, and it may not be what you want.

If you need better motion sensor coverage, that can be had by configuring multiple motion sensors.  That, however, requires neutral to the sensors and 2 hot wires between them.

Daylight sensor.

Not turning on during daylight is one of the most basic functions of an exterior motion sensor. That feature is not as common with an interior sensor, but it should Just Work, you shouldn't have to tell it twice.

That said, the better daylight sensors have to "learn" what daylight is. Consider sensor A, directly under a streetlight illuminating white concrete, and sensor B which is deep in the back of a carport: Sensor A may see more light at night than sensor B sees by day.  As such, both sensors need to "learn" what a day-night cycle looks like, for them. They have internal clocks and memory, and record hour-by-hour luminance averages over several days, and figure out which hours are dimmest.  I bought a cheapie Christmas tree light controller and installed it on a dim porch, first day, it ran the lights all day.  By day 3 it had figured out what "night" was.

Trouble is, when you cut power to one, it loses its memory and starts over.  That can happen from experimenting, or a miswired 3-way switch, or an upstream timer shutting it off.

TLDR: give your motion sensor 3 days uninterrupted to get oriented to what "night" is.  If it still doesn't work, get a better one, perhaps one listed for exterior use, and perhaps one made to take neutral if you have that.

Neutral

If you have access to neutral, consider using sensors that use neutral.  These wire very simply: aside from ground and neutral, they take an "always hot" connection and a "switched hot" connection like a plain switch. They have a guaranteed always-on power supply (via always-hot and neutral) so they remember... And since they're not leaking power through the bulb, they work fine with any bulb type.  Simply put, neutral-using sensors are better in every respect.  You can parallel several sensors or switches; if any is on, the lights are on. Between power supply and your last sensor, you need 2 hots and a neutral (14/3 wire).

LED

With 8 lights, you are pushing the capacity limits of many sensor switches unless you use LED.  I recommend you do. Price and selection is quite good now.  However many non-neutral sensors don't play well with an all-LED circuit. The workaround is to leave one incandescent in the circuit... which works until it burns out, which they frequently do... So use two.


Is an air gap required for our new Kinetico water softener? We're having a Kinetico water softener system installed today. They're planning on running the drain tube down the wash drain. We're a little concerned because they're not establishing an air gap but they're telling us the air gap is on the system and that this is how they do it nationwide. Anyone have any experience with these sytems? Is this true? If not, is there a way to fix this ourselves?

This may be a little late for you, given the question is some months old, however...

I have a Kinetico Premier Compact softener installed by the main water entry to the house.
It was installed about seven months ago by the local Kinetico distributor.

The drain tube does go to an air gap under the kitchen sink.

The installation manual states that this should be done, as shown here


Laziest/Quickest way to smooth a wood-grain-textured door? We have some ultra-cheap hollow-core doors in our upstairs. They aren't real wood but this synthetic laminate with a raised wood-grain texture. Ugly things.

But, I'm cheap, and am trying to salvage them with paint before I throw in the towel and buy new ones. Any suggestions on the quickest way to smooth them down?

My first thought was to glop up on a thick coat of primer with a roller, let dry, sand (removing the primer from the raised part) then add a second coat, sand, then paint. Viable theory? Would a few coats of primer be enough to fill in a raised texture like that?

I was also thinking skim coating it with plaster, but I don't think the plaster would adhere to the plastic laminate surface. Plus, that sounds like more work that I wanted to invest in these things.

If it's the same door I'm thinking of, I don't think two coats of primer will do it.  You'll need an actual crack filler.
Bear in mind, if they're flat/slab doors, you can fully replace them with a luan veneer door pretty cheaply.  Something like $45 per door last time I bought them.  Not too far from the price of paint.
Is the fake woodgrain so ugly that a nice coat of paint won't dress it up ok?


Ground screw inverted - Converting 3 prong dryer to 4 prong I’m trying to change the cord on a second-hand dryer that came with a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong to match the outlet I have.
I have a decent sense of what I need to do to match up the hot-neutral-hot wires but my issue is what to do with the ground wire.
For whatever reason the current 3 prong configuration had the green ground screw already in place but with the head on the interior of the dryer (see image). So I cannot simply unscrew and then screw on to attach the ground wire as-is.
Is it imperative that the ground wire on the 4 prong cord be fastened through that screw or is there some easy way around this? I also am unsure if I can even remove the entire back panel because there are a few other inverted screws with heads on the interior of the machine.

You may be able to use a nut with the correct threading, but then you might have to be careful you don’t back the screw out. If it does get backed out and you end up losing it, maybe you could get a replacement grounding screw and put it in head-out when you hook up the ground. Then again, maybe you could use a replacement screw in the hole to the right of the ground symbol.


Stepping up 240v to higher voltage. My ac system is 240V. I want to step it up to higher voltage to plug in some temporary equipment that needs at least 400-440 volts. If I use a 120v-240v step up transformer.. would it make my 240V become 480V?

Yes, for a short time, and then there will be a BANG and a fire will start.

Whether that happens in 5 minutes or 5 days is based on the quality of the build of the equipment.  Siemens >> random junk off Alibaba.

If you plan to do that, then buy a 240/480 autotransformer in the first place, which can also be used for 120/240 at half the VA.  This type is more likely to be available as an isolation transformer, for what that's worth.


Hot water running out, already replaced both heating elements and both thermostats Our hot water runs out during one not-too-long shower.  By the end of the shower, I have the cold water completely off and the hot water coming out is only lukewarm.  My husband already replaced both heating elements and both thermostats.  What else could be causing this?

The most likely reason is a degraded/broken dip tube in the hot water heater. If this were the case, there would likely be little bits of plastic in your water, which perhaps could be seen  if you removed a faucet aerator. To replace the dip tube, the cold water inlet must be removed, and the new tube installed. One related cause is if the inlet and outlet of the water heater are swapped. If swapped, the cold water in the bottom of the tank is supplied to fixtures.

Another reason is an unintentional mixing of the hot water and cold water. It's possible that there is a broken faucet somewhere that allows the water to mix, providing lukewarm water.

I suggest also verifying that the hot water is reaching the proper temperature. If you drain a little bit of water from the tank, is it the proper temperature? If not perhaps the wiring is wrong, the thermostat is broken, or the thermostat is set to the wrong temperature.


How much does the quality of laminated flooring depend on its thickness? I'm shopping for laminate flooring and am looking at two different manufacturers, Pergo and Mowhawk.  The Pergo we're interested in has pre-attached underlayment and is 10 mm thick with a lifetime warranty, and the Mowhawk doesn't have the underlayment attached, is 8mm thick, and also comes with a lifetime warranty.

The price difference between the two is more than 3x the cost of appropriate underlayment.  Is the additional 2mm thickness worth that extra cost?

A lot has been written about this subject. I am of the camp, like Tester 101, that laminate flooring is a poor choice  for kitchens and bathrooms. Keep in mind that laminate flooring is a pressed paper/composite backing with a "picture" of the finish on top. Granted, laminate has come a long way and the surface durability of the better brands is quite good and guaranteed for life.  however, read the warranty carefully. the warranty may cover replacement costs of a damaged piece of flooring, but never the labor cost to replace. Trust me, replacing a few pieces in the middle of a field is no easy task and the results are never as good as the original install. Also check that water damage is covered by the warranty. Most manufacturers only cover surface damage by scratching, not water damage. When water gets between the slabs, it can quickly be absorbed and the flooring will swell and buckle. This kind of damage is not reversible.

If you are sure you want to have a wood type floor in this area, I would encourage you to look at some real wood engineered flooring before making a final selection. Engineered flooring comes in the easy to install click-lock designs, pre-finished,and some with foam underlayment preinstalled.  The key advantage to engineered flooring over laminate is that engineered flooring is all wood. The back is usually a plywood type base with 1/8 to 3/16 inch of real wood veneer on the top.  This makes it sandable and re-finishable should it be necessary. Although it is not perfect for a wet area, it will hold up to a soaking much better than laminate and usually will dry ok and not delaminate from spills that are cleaned up quickly.

Until a laminate  flooring is made to be 100% water proof, I will not use it in kitchens, baths or entryways. I have been burned, even with the more expensive brands. As a result, I will not offer laminates to my customers at all, especially since I can offer engineered products at the same cost with much better looks and results.

I should mention, there are now some fantastic floating vinyl flooring systems out there that look every bit as good as laminate, easy to install, very durable, and most of all, completely waterproof. They are also quite affordable, in the $2.50 to $4 per foot price range. In my opinion, a much better product than laminate for these applications.


What to make of electrical rating etched into circuit breaker? This is an extension on a previous question about a 240V outlet in my garage.
At that time, I took the advice that I should:

replace the 40A breaker in the garage with a 30A version (from the proper manufacturer)
replace the NEMA 6-15P outlet (240V 15A) with a NEMA 6-30P (240V 30A)
make sure the electrical cable is at least AWG 10

However, I stopped the project and never actually ran the intended electrical heater because of what I found at the other side (i.e. the panel in my main house)...
The breaker that leads to the garage appears to have been altered. In particular, it looks to me that the rating number has been etched in by hand and reads 15A. Is it common practice to etch in a current rating? Could this really be a 15A breaker (this is what worried me, and why I never plugged in the 20A heater)? Can I replace this with a 30A breaker to power intended setup shown below?

.

.

I have a variety of old and new Square D breakers in my panel. It seems that the older ones have this type of rating on the handle, while it is printed on the newer ones. I'm not sure what the cut-off would be in terms of age / production year, but it's not important.
It looks to me like that breaker is rated at 15A, and the etching is factory-applied, not done by someone after the fact as you suspect. You could check the side of the breaker if you can turn the power off and remove it to be sure the ratings there match the handle rating. I just checked a spare breaker and there is no other place the amperage rating is expressed anywhere on it. The only place I could find is the handle.
Here is a picture of my panel showing the variety of ways the rating is printed on the handles:

Upon reading harper's comment, I checked a spare 30 amp breaker I have to see what the other info on it reveals in more details. Stuff stamped on the side is all related to terminal ratings. There are also a couple of stickers, but those do not reveal the trip rating either. The part number is very well hidden, on the bottom of the breaker, in a slot between the line terminals. In my case, it says 235-07. Square D lists this breaker as part number QO235. The product page lists all the details you need, and is easy to find with an internet search for the number and brand of the breaker.


Can you install stone veneer at an angle? I'm thinking of covering my brick fireplace with 6"x24" stone veneer panels and wondered about doing something like setting all the rows on an angle or having the left and right sides each angled up to meet at a peak in the center.

I know I'd have to be really careful to provide support, since the panels would want to slide, but would the final result be less stable once the thin set dries?

You certainly can set them in angled patterns. The aesthetics are a separate question. Do keep in mind that in addition to the spacers you're likely adding a number of cuts that you wouldn't have otherwise.


How to straighten a sagging wooden house? I realize that this question is probably the least DIY-type of question one could imagine, certainly for an amateur.

I'm for now simply curious about what options exist. This is an old wooden house, which is sagging some in the middle on all floors.

The cheap way to fix this appears to be simply putting down new flooring to straighten the floor without fixing the root cause.

However, is it possible to correct the root cause, as in straighten the whole house itself?

What is such a procedure called, and what heavy tools and machinery (if any) does it involve? What skills are required?

It would be useful to at least have read a little bit about this when discussing options with builders.

The process is simple, but actually doing these things may take equipment and expertise that you lack.

Find out WHY the floors are sagging.  Is it due to improper foundation/footings?  Is it due to failed or failing materials?  Is the structure just inadequately design to support itself?
Come up with a remediation plan to fix the issue(s) you identified.
Do those things yourself or hire a contractor with the necessary expertise to take care of them for you.

I'll add that in my experience the most common problem causing floors to sag in an older home is subsidence in the support structure either because they are inadequate or have been undermined.  Usually the process involves jacking up the sagging parts, usually using foundation jacks.  This often needs to take a while because you want to avoid breaking any joists, walls, etc.  Then you shore up (if possible) or remove and replace the failing/failed supports.  After that you let the building down on the new supports.

You will almost certainly end up with plaster cracks and the like but simply putting down new flooring without fixing the root cause is just a waste of time and money.


Adding 50a circuit to an existing panel I have an existing 200a service in my home.  The panel is located in the garage.  Over the years I have added several 15a circuits.  I have an air compressor I want to install in the garage that requires a 50a 240v circuit.  Will it require a sub panel, or can it be installed on the existing main panel?  If I need a sub, will it require an upgrade from my service provider?
Either way, I plan on getting an electrician to do the work.  I just want to know what I’m facing.

Thank you.

If you have 2 open slots in your existing panel you could put a breaker in no sub panel is needed. If you do not have open slots you can add couple of double stuff breakers to open up space. For the 50A 240 circuit if the existing main panel is rated for doubles.


Use of 20 Amp Breaker and 12/2 Cable for Circuit Containing 15 Amp Duplex Receptacles What is the rationale behind using a 20 amp circuit breaker with 12/2 cable for a circuit that only contains 15 amp duplex receptacles? I understand the rationale behind using 12/2 cable instead of 14/2 cable, but do not understand the rationale behind using the 20 amp circuit breaker instead of a 15 amp circuit breaker. Without understanding the rationale, I would assume it would be prudent to either:

Replace the 20 amp circuit breaker with a 15 amp circuit breaker.
Replace the 15 amp duplex receptacles with 20 amp duplex receptacles.

References to the National Electric Code would be appreciated.

Edit:

I did not intended to ask if it was permissible to use a 20 amp circuit breaker.  Instead, I meant to ask "What benefit does the 20 amp circuit breaker provide if there are only 15 amp duplex receptacles?"

The 20 amp circuit breaker with 12/2 cable and 15 amp duplex receptacles allows for a total sustainable power consumption of 1,920 watts (20 amp x 80% x 120 volts) as opposed to 1,440 watts (15 amp x 80% x 120 volts). Thus, the 20 amp circuit breaker allows me to run a 1,500 watt spacer heater, a 170 watt laptop power adapter, and 2 external monitors all on the same circuit, which would NOT be sustainable with a 15 amp circuit breaker under the 80% load rule.


Need suggestions regarding installation of a hand shower with an old style water mixer. I would like to keep the current water mixer as it is, and install the hand shower without getting into the hassle of destroying the wall. I am looking for an aesthetic approach to it.

I have to implement this in twenty two bathrooms. Can somebody suggest a solution to this?

The nuts leading to the mixing valve is what is keeping it on the pipes. Undo those (after shutting off the water) and the mixing valve will come off.

Then you can install a new tap assembly. There are models that come with a diverter where a shower can be attached to. Those are often used for bathtubs.


Is it OK to leave this switch ungrounded? I am changing outlets in my house and the old outlet did not have a grounding screw. Is it necessary to ground? How unsafe is it? The box is plastic so I can't ground it to the box.

There's a ground there, so use it

Since the box has a grounding wire in it (it's the bare wire crimp-connected to the other bare wires), you'll need to hook it up to the switch, as per NEC 404.9(B) (the exceptions are not shown here as they do not apply to your case):

  (B) Grounding. Snap switches, including dimmer and similar control switches, shall be connected to an equipment
  grounding conductor and shall provide a means to connect
  metal faceplates to the equipment grounding conductor,
  whether or not a metal faceplate is installed. Snap switches
  shall be considered to be part of an effective ground-fault
  current path if either of the following conditions is met:

  (1) The switch is mounted with metal screws to a metal
  box or metal cover that is connected to an equipment
  grounding conductor or to a nonmetallic box with integral means for connecting to an equipment grounding
  conductor.

  (2) An equipment grounding conductor or equipment
  bonding jumper is connected to an equipment grounding termination of the snap switch.


How strong can i expect wood glue to hold Let me start off by saying I have some basic knowledge of tools (basic home repairs and patch jobs), but no experience with "actual" woodworking projects.  For my first project I wanted to try and build a simple serving tray.  Similar to this one.

My question is, where the corners meet, will wood glue be strong enough to hold the sides together?  Or do I need nails or screws?  Since I'm new to woodworking I'm not exactly sure how much holding power to expect from wood glue.

Better wood glues make the claim that your joint will be stronger than the wood itself. That's to be taken with a grain of salt, as it really depends on the application. It's often true that a broken joint actually breaks off a layer of the wood rather than the glue itself.

In this case, if you glue the joint thoroughly I'd expect it to perform as expected, though the thickness of the side rails (and therefore the joint surface area) is a factor in ultimate strength. Unless the tray was dropped or otherwise impacted it will probably hold up well. That said, it might be wise to run a single small finish nail (with or without its head) through the joint to reinforce it. If you're going to stain it dark it's easy to hide something like that.


Should I use a quick or gradual 90 in my flexible A/C ductwork? To elaborate a bit more. If you are running an 8" duct off the supply, would you do a quick 90 degree towards the destination or do a gradual 90 degree?

I would guess a quick would be better because you have less cfm loss per foot. I could be wrong.

The 8" will hit a wye to two 6" ducts which run into the register boxes.

The registers are 5 foot from each other. The more important register (deeper in the room to be air conditioned) will be straight off the wye. Maybe 10 foot straight from the wye versus ~12 - 15 foot off the other side of the wye.

Sharp corners in the duct work are not preferred. They create eddy currents in the air flow that results in greater pressure drop than a straight run of pipe. In some situations the eddy currents can also create increased air turbulence noise as well.

Instead of using elbows for ducts you should consider using the newer style of non-metallic duct material. This has many advantages including:

It is much easier to work with.
There is far less thermal drop across the duct material than metal
duct.
It is lightweight.
You can easily snake it in any direction during installation.
The insulation material is built right into the duct itself as
opposed to having to be installed separately.
Duct tape sticks to it like a champ.
Tools needed for installation are very simple ones that most DIYers
will already have.


In the UK, what type of flexible conduit should I use for electrics in shed that run underground and emerge through the concrete base? In the UK, what type of flexible conduit should I use for electrics in shed that run underground and emerge through the concrete base? I see various standards quoted such as IP66. Would this be suitable- http://www.screwfix.com/p/adaptaflex-standard-weight-nylon-conduit-28mm-x-10m-black/89238

If you're just looking to get a power supply to the shed, you probably don't need to use conduit at all. Steel Wire Armoured (SWA -- roughly equivalent to jacketed/direct bury rated MC) cable is suited to being run underground and doesn't need to be in a conduit. Additional benefits are that it's more resistant to a stray spade trying to dig through it (though if you aim to bury deep enough, that shouldn't be a problem - general guidance is at least 450mm deep, but minimum 2 spades deep should be sufficient) and you don't need to mess about pulling cable through the conduit.

If you want to make it easy to replace the cable entering the shed (should you ever need to), you could use a piece of pipe / conduit / trunking to pass through the concrete base to allow the cable to be pulled easily through.


Building an elevated deck over 6x6x6 posts, a beam made of 3 pressure treated 2x8x16' is too narrow In building an elevated deck over 6x6x6 posts, a beam made of 3 pressure treated 2x8x16' (where the beams are attached to each other with FastenMaster ThruLoks) is too narrow (~5" versus 6" expected) for the galvanized-steel beam holder resting atop the post. I suppose this is due to nominal widths of the lumber, but I read this technique was acceptable if you could not get a beam and wanted to build it yourself with 2x8x16' pressure treated lumber.
Where did I go wrong and what can I do to keep doing this right?

Getting the right size bracket isn't a problem, if you go to Simpson Strong Tie web site, or other comparable brand, you'll find a part number to fit your beam and post sizes.  Look at the PCZ6.  Or on this catalog page, the CC4.62-5.50:

http://embed.widencdn.net/pdf/plus/ssttoolbox/ef6qdoh2bf/C-C-2019-p090-091.pdf

Just make sure that the built up beam you made is adequately sized for the load.  A built up  beam made from three 2x8's may be strong enough for your deck but it is not as strong as a 6x8 beam.


How to remove plastic anchor from brick? I was putting these plastic anchors into brick to mount a TV, but didn't drill the first hole deep enough! I've tried screwing in the screw a little and pulling it out that way, but it won't budge. What's the best way to remove this? At this point I don't think it's salvageable so it doesn't matter if it's destroyed.

Pulling it out with long nose pliers is one option, but it often comes out in pieces if you do that.

If you want to pull it out with a screw, you need to engage the screw enough to grip the plastic, but not enough to make it expand. This position may not exist, or if may be further out than you think. Sometimes a screw engaged just 2-3 turns will give you something to get a grip on with pliers or a claw hammer (not under the screw head but near the tip). A very slightly undersized screw can help with some fixings.

Drilling it out completely is tricky. Once it breaks into pieces they tend to go round in the hole rather than drill.

It looks to me, from the fact that there's still some sticking out but it won't pull out, that the hole is too tight (drill too small). The universal plastic fittings often call for different hole sizes for different materials.


Thoughts on furnace generator transfer switch install I'm replacing my cast iron boiler for hydronic heating and domestic hot water in Massachusetts. Plans are to install a new Viessmann gas fired condensing boiler. Living in New England, it's not out of the question that we could lose power during a winter storm. I'd like to be able to keep the house warm during an extended power outage. The power requirements of the boiler and circulating pumps is going to be relatively low, so I'm looking at installing a furnace transfer switch to be able to power the furnace off a portable inverter generator that I own.

Furnace transfer switch:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-Furnace-Transfer-Switch-TF151/202216476
Champion 2000W inverter generator: https://www.championpowerequipment.com/product/73536i-2000-watt-inverter-generator/

Am I risking my boiler equipment? I understand that a standard job-site generator kicks out some really dirty power, and I shouldn't plug in anything with a chip in it. But everything I've read about inverters is that they're electronics and computer safe. I'd like some thoughts if there's any thoughts or experience on this that I've missed.

I've also heard the advice, install a whole house system or an installed system serving only a couple of breakers. That's really overkill for what I'm looking for. There's nothing else in the house that I'm worried about running that can't be fed off the second outlet of the generator (an LED light and maybe a phone/laptop charger). I own the generator already, and we don't lose power frequently enough to justify an installed system.

Are there any issues with powering on/off the Viessmann boiler system. I understand the recommended sequence for plugging into a generator are to 1) get the genset started, 2) plug in the equipment. Then on the shutdown 3) unplug the equipment, 4) shutdown the genset. Is pulling power from the Viessmann going to be bad for it in some form? Again, this is not going to be a standard operating mode, but hopefully coasting through an emergency couple of days. But last thing I want is to damage my boiler during a couple of hour power outage, requiring an emergency service call once power comes back on.

Finally, I'm aware of carbon monoxide risks, and I have the requisite 50ft extension cord to put the genset outside, 20ft from the house.

Thoughts, hand-holding?
Thanks.

You said inverter generator , these are usually much better than the type I use, with the old fashion alternator and voltage control. I power my TV’s and microwave refrigerator, furnace  and well pump with mine and have done this for over 20 years without knowingly killing anything.
I have been on generator power up to 2 weeks and loose power for at least a day every year usually several.

The important part is not overloading your generator , I usually am well below the generators rating and maybe close to 1/2 of its peak rating.

The reason this makes a difference is because when generators are over loaded they start surging this causes the frequency to bounce and the voltage to spike then droop. With a proper size for the load the generator will only vary slightly.

Your inverter rating is 2kw but what is the load the boiler needs (the pump being the big draw of the system) if your recirculating pump is a fractional horse power you would probably be fine, setting up a transfer switch for this one unit may be a good idea but I would want a quality heavy duty extension cord 50’ is not that long but pump’s have a large starting current and a small extension cord can increase voltage drop , create excessive heat in the wires and damage the system where a Quality 12 gauge cord will be fine.

I would move forward with your plan it looks sound and may provide comfort when all else is dark.


Unable to properly wire timer to old light switch with one “white?” Wire on top and one looped black wire Top wire is painted white. bottom wire is looped. Timer has screws for line, load, neutral and ground. What goes where?

I am getting power but only half the light output with one part of black loop in line and the other in load and the “White’ In neutral. I have tried every combination i think. This is in a 3 switch box and one black wire runs to the next Boxswitch. That light works!

The double wire is simply power being carried onward to other switches.

Note the solitary black wire.   Follow it to see which cable that wire departs the box in.  Now look at that cable's white wire and follow it back to a bundle of all-whites... Add your smarts witch neutral to that bundle.   Do not remove any wires from the bundle, they are not spares.

Do not add it to any random bundle of whites you see. That will "seem to work" until you add a GFCI or AFCI, then will trip it.   Add it to the right bundle.


Energy Monitor Install load center phase connection In an attempt to ensure accurate electrical load center phase connection for a neurio home energy monitor, the installation video around 2:40 mentions connecting to the red wire to another Phase "let's call it, Phase B" then mentions "every other breaker is on a different phase" with a A B A B diagram for each (tandem) breaker. Per the install diagram on the install video, is it safe to assume the red wire is on a the fourth breaker from the left top, if the first black wire is connected to the leftmost top breaker?

A more pertainant question in my case, per my load center, image below, the second breaker from the top left is on a separate phase from the top tandem breaker, in this two phase load center?

Is there any relevant recommended general industry encyclopedia type resource for this?

The neutral bus bar has white wires connected to it, and the ground bar has the no insulation on the wiring?

Thanks in advance!

This explanation is sufficient, the second breaker is on a separate phase.


How do I repair drywall around a bathtub? I have an area of drywall that is next to my bath tub that has gotten soft and crumbly. Mostly held together by paint & caulk now.

I'm reasonably sure I understand why. We're getting some water splashing back from the shower and coming down the side of the tub/wall. I know we used the "right" drywall (green/blue), but I'm sure it can only withstand so much abuse (It's not meant for lining your pool).

I'm thinking my best solution is to cut out that section of dry wall and replace it with a chunk of cement board.

My questions now being (which are all inter related):
 - Is this the right solution?
 - If so, can I do the transition between the cement board and drywall with drywall compound, or do I have crack open a bag of thin-set?
 - If so, how do I make its finish nice (just run a skiff of drywall compound over it)?

I don't have experience with it, but there are fiberglass-covered drywall products available. If that is not available, I would recommend using 1/2" James Hardie Tile Backer Board. The smooth side is smooth enough to be painted. As far as taping, I would use a fiber glass mesh tape and a joint compound mix like Sheetrock 90, which hardens better than pre-mix joint compound.

But to really fix the problem permanently, I would pull cut away the bottom 18" of drywall all the way around the tub, replace it with Hardie Tile Backer Board, cover it with Schuter KERDI and finish with tile. Google or Bing to get more information about those products and how to use them.

Tip I picked up from Mike Holmes: don't run the tile backer board over the tub flange that goes up the studs. Stop the tile backer board above the flange, fill with thinset and cover with KERDI. Use KERDI-FIX to adhere an 1/8" fold of the KERDI to the tub deck.

This all assumes this is a tub only with no shower.


What could be wrong with my furnace? The furnace started blowing cold air so I checked the furnace and the burners weren't lit only the pilot was on. This happened last year and repairman said that if it got too hot would trip a sensor and needed to be reset. I pushed the reset button and turned the furnace back on another burners lit but the flame was kind of wild and you could smell smoke from the vents so I shut it back off. The filter is a little dirty is this the problem?

Time to call a serviceman again. If you are smelling smoke from the heat vents, there is most likely something seriously wrong with your furnace. Combustion air and the ambient air should NEVER be mixing and this presents a dangerous situation where CO (Carbon Monoxide) could be entering your living area.

This is potentially fatal if not fixed properly. I wouldn't mess around with this one on a DIY level.