repair hole in hardwood floor near garage door One weekend after a gathering, I noticed that there was a hole in my hardwood floor. The hole is about half an inch in  depth and about the size of penny, maybe a bit larger. I know sometimes hardwood has pin knots, but this looks to be caused by a heavy step of a woman's high-heeled shoe.

What's the best way to fix this without having to tear up the floor?

A solid healthy piece of oak would never collapse like that. You need to figure out what is going on before you fix it. Look at the underside if you can, break away any of the edges of the hole that come out easily (preferably without getting into the surrounding pieces) and try to figure out what you're dealing with. Look hard for moisture or evidence of insects. If you find anything suspicious, those problems must be dealt with first.

If ,however, the hole is pretty localized and the rest of the floor feels dry and solid, you can reasonably assume that it was an isolated defect in that piece and proceed with a patch. Here's a pretty decent tutorial on patching hardwood flooring:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez0GSSVuTyk

Good Luck!


How can I use toggle bolts for kitchen shelves on 30 mm plasterboard? I'm trying to use a toggle bolt, but the combined thickness of the plasterboard (~30 mm) and the shelf bracket (22 mm) means that the toggle won't push through far enough to spring out and grip the wall. The longest toggle screws I can find are 80 mm, and they leave me around 7 mm too short.

The bracket is hollow metal, so one thing I could do is drill the outer hole larger so that the screw head fits through and tightens against the metal adjacent to the wall which would give me the extra mms needed to get the toggle through. I don't particularly want to do this for a few reasons:

a) aesthetics of leaving a big hole in the bracket,
b) possibly weakening the bracket,
c) making it difficult to access the screw.

Any better suggestions out there guys?

There is an anchor that has similar characteristics to a toggle bolt, known as a toggle anchor

These have a long straps holding the metal backing toggle. The straps are slid out of line to turn the toggle parrallel for insertion in the hole. Then the straps are aligned to turn the toggle perpendicular. The outer collar is slide along the tracks to the face of the wall and the excess straps are broken off.

This has a significant advantage over spring toggles because the bolt can be removed without losing the toggle.

If the shelf is heavy, be sure to use numerous anchors to distribute the load. Plasterboard is not a very strong support.  And see Tester101's comment above.

You can see a general discussion of different types of anchors here.


feeding both sides of load center from 120vac backup source In a situation of temporary backup power (short-term grid outages), is it ok to feed both "sides" of a standard split-phase main load center from a single 120vac backup source (e.g. an inverter driven from batteries and/or solar PV) ?  Assuming that the main breakers and any double-pole breakers are turned off.

Secondary question: What happens if any double-pole breakers are turned on ?   For a 240vac load with no neutral connection, it seems the load would see zero voltage, since the two "hot" wires are in phase; of course both hots would show 120vac relative to ground, but that's the case normally.  For a 240vac load with a neutral connection, I imagine it would be ok too; I think that's generally the case if the 240vac load is expected to contain 120vac loads (e.g. the control circuitry in a cooking range), and again it seems ok, since the 120vac loads would still see their 120vac, and it'd only be a problem if the load contained separate 120vac loads powered off the two hots and it was somehow necessary for them to be out of phase, conceivable I suppose, but far-fetched.

No "checklists"! Hard-built interlocks only.

There is no such thing as "making sure your main breaker and 2-pole breakers are turned off".   You must not do generator interlocking via a checklist or procedure.

There are only three legitimate ways to switch from mains to backup power:

a generator-style interlock or transfer switch
"permanently" rewire the panel or circuits so they hardwired to power off the alternate source only,  and no longer are able to power from mains. When power returns, "pemanently" wire them back.
switch the loads via cord-and-plug connection.

The cheapest and simplest way to implement a generator interlock is, if an interlock kit isn't made for your main panel, to get a no-lug subpanel with an inexpensive interlock (Murray or QO) and have two backfeeding breakers back to back interlocked, and then put the loads you want to switch into this panel.

Go ahead and feed both poles, except...

Once you have done this, go for it.  Go ahead and split your 120V supply so it feeds both legs of the interlocked 240V "generator" breaker.

... except Multi-Wire Branch Circuits

However, this will be very bad for multi-wire branch circuits (MWBC).  These are circuits which share a neutral.  The hot wires must be on opposing poles so the neutral only handles differential currents.  Putting them on the same pole will mean neutral handles the sum of both hots' currents, and that can overload it.

How do you avert this? Ideally, you put your to-be-gen-powered circuits in a separate subpanel (again, the cheap way to provide that gen interlock)... and simply don't migrate MWBCs to that panel.

Or go on a crusade to eliminate all multi-wire branch circuits,

At the very least, you identify in advance your MWBCs, by going through your panel, finding them, and placing them on 2-pole breakers.

Notably,  a "make turning off MWBCs part of your checklist" apparently violates the "no checklists" rule.   However the main reason for that reg is so you don't kill linemen, who are innocent outsiders.  I am not sure if Code has taken a stance on this entirely local consequence.

What will happen if you power a 240V appliance?

A 240V appliance (water heater, A/C): Nothing.  Every conductor in the appliance will be at the same potential, so no electrons will move. This will happen to be 120V from safety ground, but who cares.

A 120/240V appliance (dryer, range): The 120V parts of the appliance will power up (tumbler, timer, clock, oven light).  The 240V parts, see above.   So for instance your dryer will work, but only on "fluff/no heat".


Winterizing new wet-treated pressure treated pine deck We’re in a townhome and replaced our small 2nd floor deck/porch with wet-treated pressure treated pine 3-4 weeks ago. We had to do it well in advance of the other units for safety reasons. There’s a ton of conflicting info about how to protect the wet type of pressure treated pine.

Important Factors:

We’re in the Chicago area. Winter is coming.
Porch will be fully exposed to the elements (rain, snow), including direct sun for the first half of the day.
Top of floor and railing has been protected with heavy trash bags to protect from the brunt of the weather but bottom half remains exposed.
Don’t want to do anything too fancy because of the HOA.

Some say not to do anything this type of pressure treated pine for 6 months to avoid sealing in moisture. I’d rather not have a deck covered in trash bags for another 6-8 months, but don’t want to leave it exposed to the elements.

What should I do?

Leave it exposed to the elements. You're not doing it any favors by sealing it with plastic. In fact, you'll run the risk of staining it by trapping moisture and/or fostering mildew and other grossness. It's better to let it dry out gradually over the winter and have it seasoned and ready for sealing in the spring.

It may fade or gray out slightly, but the product you apply should bring it back to beautiful with no problems.


Fried dimmer turns lights on/off but new dimmer won't I had two black wires, one red wire and two white wires coming from the ceiling (I suspect there used to be a fan with a light).
In the switch box, there was a black and a white wire (with a green ground wire).

I wanted to install a light fixture so I tied the red wire (which I discovered was the constant feed) and one of the black wires (which I figured extended to the switch) together in the ceiling with a nut, the two white wires and the blue wire from the light fixture together and the remaining black wire with the brown wire from the fixture.
With a regular switch, everything works fine: lights turn on and off.
With a fried dimmer (the switch part works but not the dimming part), everything works fine (except the dimming of course): lights turn on and off
With a new dimmer, nothing works: lights don't turn on. I know the dimmer works because it works in another location just fine.

How come? Does a fried dimmer act as a regular switch?
Can I even use a dimmer with that configuration? Did I wire it wrong?

Thanks for taking an interest in my question. Here are pics of the ceiling box and of the switch box. I did some testing and:
- The red and black wires that are in the same cable as a white one have voltage (left side of the pic)
- The remaining white in that cable and the white and black wires in the other cable (right side of the pic) do not have voltage
- All wires in the switch box have voltage (including the green one)

If I attach my light fixture to the black and white wires which are in the same cable as the red one (leaving the red one with a nut by itself), the light works with a normal switch. It does not with a dimmer.
Any other configuration of white and black wires tied to the fixture won't work.
Initially I had tied the red and one of the black wires together but that does not seem necessary to turn on the lights with a normal switch. However, the problem remains the same.

I don't understand why a normal switch would turn on the light and not a dimmer...

Try swapping LINE and LOAD on the dimmer

Older analog-triac dimmers were like single pole switches in that they didn't care which way around in the circuit they were connected.  However, you have a newer dimmer that is more sophisticated (and has to be, in order to dim LEDs properly without a neutral reference), and thus cares about the distinction between its LINE side and its LOAD side; in your case, the black screw is LINE, and the red screw that isn't covered by the label on the dimmer is LOAD.

As to the wiring in the ceiling box, the white wire in the /3 cable is neutral going to the fixture (the fixture's blue wire), while the red and black wires are always-hots, along with the black wire in the /2 cable to the switch box.  The white wire in that /2 cable, then becomes the switched-hot returning from the switch in an old-style switch loop configuration, going to the brown wire on the fixture, and needs to be flagged with a wrap of electrical tape at each end as a result.  Of course, all the grounds need to be connected together as well.

With the ceiling box wired as above, we then move to the switch box, where the black wire goes to the black screw and the taped white wire goes to the red screw that isn't covered by the label.  The green screw, of course, gets connected to the grounds in the box.


Hanging 73 lb frameless glass panels on drywall I have to hang a bunch of glass panels on drywall. they have no frames.  Each glass piece is 70"x33.5" and weighs 73lb. the thickness is about 1/4", 5/16". most need to get hung on drywall, a few of them to concrete wall.
does anyone have any ideas of what kind of clips or supports to use?
thanks

By far, the best approach is to attach either clips or a frame to studs (either wood or steel, depending on your construction).

If the panels are being arranged at the same level, you could run rails horizontally along the wall at the base and top of the panels. These could be made from two pieces of molding, one slightly thicker than the thickest glass panel (about 3/8 by 3/4) and another thinner wider piece on the face (about 1/4 by 1 to 1 1/4) creating a lip. These could be screwed into the studs and painted to match the wallboard.

In a concrete wall, the strip could be mounted using masonry anchors every 8 to 12 inches.

An alternative is to mount mirror clips at the top and base.

However panels of this weight really need stud mounting, so the clips would have to align with the studs, and that might be a problem with spacing. In a concrete wall, mirror clips could be used, but again, need to be placed at least 4 per panel in the base.

It is theoretically possible to use mirror clips with other mounting devices, such as toggles, but you would need several in the base of each panel, as well as two at the top, and the weight would make this very iffy.


Is it possible to patch a crack in a toilet? We have a medicine cabinet placed above the toilet. Not the best place but not a lot of choice. Anyway, while fumbling for some Sudafed in the dark, I managed to knock a cough mixture bottle out of the cabinet.

CRACK

Takes a chunk about three inches long one wide out of the rim of the bowl, and I think caused a crack down the side as well. EDIT: definite cracks on the outside, can feel a slightly raised edge.

So, I know we need a new toilet but it will be awhile  till we can sort one. Is there  anything I can patch it with in the meantime. As it's the only toilet in the house.

EDIT: One thought was to duct tape the side,would hope that could a least hold it together for a little while.

I'd try a marine grade epoxy (loctite makes such a product) to just seal the crack for a short time. If you still have the chunk that was broken off the marine grade epoxy should work but it's probably not going to look pretty. I've used it before and it mixes up to a rather ugly dark gray/black color and dries the same, but if you can live with the color difference it is VERY strong and waterproof. I used it to seal a leaky PVC pipe for a number of days until I had the time to fix it properly and not a drop of water came out.

EDIT: Found a link to the product here


How to unpack the base of a refrigerator? How does one unpack the thick foam base of a Bosch refrigerator? It is sitting on a 4” thick foam slab. The goal is to get it down to floor level without damaging, and I only have one helper.
Thanks.

Tip and swivel until you've "walked" it off the foam.

Cut the lip of foam off the side nearest you.
Tip it toward you (enlist help if necessary) toward the side where you cut the lip off.
While it's leaning toward you, tip it onto the left corner as you pivot the right corner toward you a few inches to get it off the foam.
Tip it onto the right corner (now sitting on the floor) as you pivot the left corner up, toward you, then down onto the floor.
Have your helper pull the foam out of the way.
Gently stand it back up.

Notes:

It doesn't matter if you start with the left or right side, I picked one, you could pick the other.
It's probably best to tip the fridge toward its back as this will prevent the doors from swinging open, possibly smashing fingers, possibly throwing you off balance as they move, potentially damaging the hinge as it hits its limit at speed, or at a very minimum being annoying and inconvenient.
As noted in the comments, check your instructions on which way to tip your fridge. The manufacturer may have a recommendation based on mechanical/structural details that evade my logic. If you tip it too far, you will need to let it settle - details on that should be in your manual, as well. Don't forget - they probably had it tipped as it was hand trucked around the store, onto the delivery truck and into your house. (They could be you if you hauled it home yourself...)


Attaching a deck ledger to the concrete pad of a detached garage I am building a deck between my house and the garage. I will support the deck on one side with a ledger on the house and plan to support the other side with a ledger on the garage (with requisite beams in between).

My question is whether or not it is recommended to attach a ledger to the concrete pad that the detached garage is built on. The pad appears to be approx 5" thick (at least on the edges) and either a 2" x 8" or 2" x 6" ledger would hang below the bottom edge of the concrete pad (assuming I would like at least 2 inches above the ledger for decking and gap).

Does anyone have any recommendations for this? Thanks.

Attaching ledger boards to a steel reinforced reasonably thick (12” or more) concrete pad is standard practice in deck construction. Use 4 1/2” concrete anchors 18” apart in a zig zag pattern - per engineered drawings for my high end deck projects


How to tighten a circular saw without a spindle / arbor lock? I have an older Black & Decker Sawcat #987. It does not appear to have any way of locking the spindle that I can find.

How are you supposed to tighten down the blade bolt if you can't hold the spindle from turning? It gets semi-tight and then the spindle just turns. The blade is still free to rotate at this point. I don't think there is enough friction to run the motor to snug it up that way.

I am aware of methods to loosen the bolt without a lock (hold the blade with block of wood, sharply applied torque, etc.) but these don't seem to apply when tightening.

(I feel like I may be missing something obvious because this seems like a ridiculous problem!)

Thanks

I have used a screwdriver.

UNPLUG THE SAW.

finger tighten the bolt as far as you can, set the screwdriver across the fence and slide it into the teeth so that  blade tooth is up against the shaft of the screwdriver and can not turn. This is usually enough to get the arbor bolt to snug up enough so that it pinches the arbor onto the blade. Perhaps a vise grip would work as well to grab the blade.


New construction, who is responsible for water drainage? We moved into our new construction and opted to do the landscaping at a later time. I have already put downspouts and extensions to get the water 20 ft away from the house. However, the way the land lays, water ponds up around our basement pretty bad. Is this a contractor issue or would it have been landscaping?

Any contractor worth his salt would make sure that the site was graded to always slope away from the house. It’s part of keeping the house dry and I don’t think this aspect of the work falls under the category of landscaping. He should be responsible for correcting the problem.


Would it be entirely crazy to cover my lawn with solar panels? I was just wondering how viable this would be and if this seemed too crazy. I have a fairly large lawn that just so happens be sloped and facing east. Assuming the city ordinances don't bar me from doing it, would it be a good idea to cover most, if not all, of the lawn with solar panels?  What other factors should I be considering?

(I'm new to this Exchange; I didn't know where else to ask this)

I don't know about "Crazy" but there are a few issues you should consider:

Cost

This is obviously going to vary a lot depending on where you live and how big the yard is, but you're probably talking about tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars to cover a yard.

Power Usage

What are you going to do with all that power? Many electric companies in the US allow (or are required to) let you sell back excess power to "the grid", but you usually have to have a special meter installed and often there is a limit on the size of the installation. The terms of this buy-back are unfavorable to the utility so they don't want you running a large power generator and making money at their expense.

Orientation

As has been stated by another user, the best angle for solar panels is south (if you are in the northern hemisphere; otherwise, north). The optimal tilt angle depends somewhat on the purpose of the panels but is approximately the same as your latitude. (E.g. Boston is at about 42º N so if you live in Boston the panels should be tiled at 42º.)


Priming green sheetrock When priming a green (bathroom) sheet rock for the first time, is it important to block all traces of green visible through the primer? If I can still see green, should I apply a second coat of primer?

You can hide the color with paint or you can hide the color with primer.  In general, primer is cheaper than paint so on "color changes" you want to do as much as you can with primer - even to the point of tinting your primer if you're not using white paint.

So, I would go ahead and use another coat of primer and then paint over it with the final color.  You could cover directly with paint and still get good results, so it's really your call if the paint and primer are close to the same cost.


Avoid S-Trap Sink Plumbing Any suggestions how I avoid an S-Trap when installing my bathroom sink when the drain rough-in is installed coming up through the floor (foundation)? See image below - sink hookup is on the right.

Since you framed the wall behind the in-concrete drain rough-in, you will use an S-trap from the bowl to the drain on the floor. Had you really wanted to use a P-trap, you would have framed the wall directly over the rough-in, used a P-trap into the wall, then an elbow down to the rough-in in the floor.
If you really want to use a P-trap then you'll need to move your wall. Since that does seem quite rather impractical (and probably makes the toilet rough-in unusably close to the wall), just stick with the S-trap. Functionally, an S- & P-trap work the same. I'm not aware of any additional clogging issues with an S-trap over a P (I have all S in my house and have very minimal clogging issues, especially since the long-haired daughter moved out on her own), so there's nothing to worry about there.
Dropping Placing a vanity over the pipe in the floor really isn't that difficult in comparison to pushing it up against the wall. You have to measure carefully in each case to get the hole cut (in the floor or the back, as appropriate) in the proper place, but you just make the hole a bit oversized and it's not difficult in either case. There's no requirement that the pipe be perfectly centered for either installation method.


How can I best salvage my 240V GFCI spa disconnect wiring? Based on the answer to my recent question "How to wire a 240V disconnect panel for spa that does not require neutral", I need to run another wire from my main service panel to my spa disconnect panel to serve as neutral.
Current Situation
I began wiring already and noticed my problem halfway. Oops.

I have three 6 AWG wires running from my main panel to my 60A spa disconnect panel:

hot red
hot black
grounding green

All are THHN/THWN-2 rated
In locations where conduit is required, I'm using 3/4" liquidtight flexible nonmetallic type-B

Proposed Fix
Re-purpose the grounding wire and make it my neutral instead. I would then need to run an additional wire for ground.
My goal is to run the new grounding wire in the same 3/4" conduit I already have if possible. After reading NEC table 250.122, the grounding wire requirement for a 60A panel is 10 AWG copper.
I would put white tape (and a note) around the re-purposed green wire to prevent future confusion.
Questions

Can the grounding wire be bare if it's in conduit, or does it also require THHN/THWN-2? There are wet locations along the run.
Can I run the new 10 AWG grounding wire in my 3/4" conduit which already has three 6 AWG wires?

You CANNOT re-purpose a green wire smaller than #4 as a neutral, even if it is insulated. Is the #6 ground green all the way?
If so running a new neutral in this case is your only option.

The ground wire in the outside portion of the wiring for a hot tub in conduit CANNOT be bare. It MUST be green insulated.

I would use a GFI in the main panel and a regular breaker in the spa disconnect. Easy-peasy.


Rotating a concrete slab? Is it possible to use a hydraulic bottle jack or similar to rotate a 10 x 12' x 6" a few degrees or about 5 inches?
I have a recent pour not quite in position.
3/8" rebar throughout in a 6 x 6 grid formation (6 pieces at 9ft, 6 pieces at 11ft, 6" actual thickness + 1" tamped gravel.

Slab on grade is probably the kind of pour you are referring to.

The problem is only partially one of lifting the slab, the other half is having the slab rest again on the grade.

These kinds of concrete pours fill all the irregularities of the ground they are poured upon.  If one could lift the slab without slab damage, the setting of the slab on a new position of the grade would likely not match the irregularities in the same exact positions.  This means your slab would be unsupported in some spots, and have new pressure points in others.

While one would hope that the weight of the slab pushes down the high points.  In reality, the weight of the slab does so by bending at the high points while applying pressure.  Since typical formulations of concrete aren't designed to be heavily flexible, the bending introduces fractures and causes premature failure of the slab.

I would look into augmenting the existing slab without attempting to move it.


What causes the chirping sound coming from my 250 natural gas meter? When gas is flowing through the meter, I hear a steady, slow chirping sound (perhaps a chirp every 5 to 10 seconds).  Is this an indication that the meter (35 years old) is coming to the end of its life?  Should I be concerned about the chirping?

The noise is likely caused by a moving part rubbing its bearing or keeper. Whether or not it's a problem will depend on the meter.

You should contact the utility, and let them decide how to proceed.  In most places the utility owns the meter, and is responsible for maintaining and/or replacing them.


Why won't my plugs stay put in concrete wall? Possible Duplicate:
  Why would plastic anchors pull out of the wall?

I have drilled holes in my concrete wall (good hard concrete) with a regular 8 mm concrete drill. They all seem like good holes and I've taken care to remove all remaining dust from the holes by blowing inside with a straw. My 8 mm plugs also go in with just the right amount of friction.

But when I start mounting the cupboard and really want to tighten the last bit, instead of just getting more secure, the plug starts creeping out of the wall! I've tried a couple of different types of concrete plugs, but they all yield the same result.

Is it a good idea to take some kind of filler material and jam it in together with the plug before mounting?

If they are coming out when you are tightening them, it might be that your hole was not drilled deep enough.  The hole should be at least 1/4" deeper than the screw.

Those plugs also might not be large enough for the job.  Concrete anchor scews (like Tapcon's) are a good alternative when you need more strength then a plug can offer, but don't need a large metal anchor.  On large jobs (like attaching a deck to the house), you can epoxy a bolt in a hole like you suggsted.


Is it possible to trace a wire to a breaker if you don't have access to the inner copper Short version
Is there a device that can clamp around the outside of an insulated electric line (without contacting the copper) and identify the breaker that controls it by sending a signal through the insulation into the wire?
Long version
A thick black wire, diameter about that of a hot dog, goes into the ground near our front porch and travels towards the street. I believe it must have supplied power to a lamp-post that was original to the house, built in the 1940s. The lamp-post is no longer there, and I never saw it, but they're a common feature of the houses in my neighborhood. The electrical supply from the street is on a utility pole that connects up near the eaves and comes down to the meter box.
So, when digging a hole to plant a bush a few feet away from the porch, I did so very gingerly, and found the wire there again, about 6 inches below the surface. Then, when planting a second bush closer to the sidewalk, in an existing rock-garden, I encountered the wire yet again. But there was also a more modern 14-2 style supply line next to it. I have no idea where this newer wire comes from, or where it terminates.
I have a Klein non-contact style tester. If these wires are hot, the Klein should give me a rapid beeping sound, according to the manufacturer's website.  I've tested it indoors on a 12-2 and a 14-2 wire, both known to be hot, and it does give a rapid beep when held against their outer insulation.  Testing the outdoor wires, it just gives a slow pulse beep.
Another device I have lets me trace a wire back to the breaker box, but it uses alligator clips that attach to the copper.  Is there some device that can clamp around the outside of the insulation and do the same thing?

Yes, a professional tracer tool that has either an inductive feature or an inductive clamp will work. The inductive feature is used by placing the tool in close proximity to the wire, while the inductive clamp is typically an accessory that you place around the wire you're tracing to insert the signal. It doesn't matter if the circuit is energized or not. Unfortunately these tools are expensive, so you might want to find someone you can borrow from or a tool center you can rent it from. People that would have access to these tools would be ones that work with or around underground utilities, so for example I know an excavator that has one of these. Other uses for these tools are finding underground irrigation and breaks in invisible dog fence wires if that helps your search.

Ideal makes one for about $1200:
https://www.idealind.com/ideal-electrical/us/en/products/test-measurement/circuit-tracers/suretrace-circuit-tracer-61-959.aspx

Schonstedt also makes a few different ones that would work:
https://www.schonstedt.com/

And here is an instruction manual on how to use the Schonstedt features:
http://gfretwell.com/electrical/howtofindcablemanual_06.pdf


How do I get the fluorescent bulb out of this fixture? The bulb blew last night. I've been trying to get it out to change the bulb but it's not budging. I got the outer case off but the end covers aren't budging so the bulb won't pull or twist out.

How do I remove the bulb from this fixture?

I've seen some units where the bulb wasn't designed to be replaced. Based on your photo, that may be the case here. Units with replaceable fluorescent bulbs have a "twist-in" connector on either end that's visible after you remove the cover. You may need to buy a new unit and replace the fixture. I would buy a double bulb unit, since those are almost always replaceable.


Electrical issues in house less than 18 mos old I built a carriage house is SC about 18 mos ago which I visited almost monthly. I took possession from my builder in mid May. In June, the can lights in the master mad e a sizzling noise when I turned the switch on and then died. I called the electrician and he came over and re wired them. Every month when I come back down the electric has been off and the clocks are flashing. I was down in August and the air conditioner had shut off and it seems the thermostat went bad. The fan in the freezer portion of the refrigerator also went bad.  We replaced the thermostat and the fan. I keep questioning my builder and he first called the power company. They came out and told me that some animals ate my wire and they fixed it. I was at the house the very next day and the power went off again. This does not happen to any of the neighbors. I keep questioning my builder. He is now telling me it is arc breakers which are required here. Problem is that his electrician hanged these out the first time. Now last week the ceiling fan in the family room burnt out. There is power tot he switch but the fan itself is dead. I keep telling my builder there is something wrong. He insists not. I can’t believe all this is normal. I’m 53 and never had such issues.  Can anyone shed any light on what might be going on??? I don’t want my house to burn down and I’m super tired of paying to replace everything. Thanks in advance!!!

You're frying a bunch of 120V electrical equipment.  Undervoltage doesn't fry equipment. Overvoltage does!

This is a lost neutral problem

It may be that way from the power company from the power drop.  In which case it would not be the electricians' fault, except they should have detected it.

Your house has two electrical poles or phases coming in.  Any modern panel will separate them like this, so it's a little byzantine (especially with double-stuff breakers) but it's possible to decode.   Anyway, you want to find two receptacle circuits on opposite poles.   Measure their voltages.

119.3/119.9  -- that is pretty normal.  However if you see

105.2/133.4 -- that is the indication of a lost neutral.

The surest way to flush out a lost neutral is to measure one pole while you put a big fat 120V load like a hair dryer on the other.  The dead giveaway of a lost neutral, is the unloaded leg will go up in voltage by several volts or more.

It's possibly from the power company.  The result is half your circuits are getting too much voltage, half get too little, and this changes frequently as loads change.

I have seen lost neutral issues affect several houses at once.


should I have safety concern of this rusty fireplace gas burner? I have no knowledge about how this gas burner works. I guess if the valve under the subfloor in the crawlspace is not rusty, then it should be OK, right?

Should I have any gas leak concerns? It seems to me that the burner pipe is easy to replace but the vertical pipe is fixed and hard to replace.

Any comment is appreciated.

It's difficult to assess the degree of rust, especially in the pipe feeding into the floor of the firebox.   Natural gas can have a certain amount of moisture in it, which may be contributing to (causing) the rusting.  If this is the main source of moisture it would be more pronounced on any vertical pipe run.

I would suggest you remove as much of the visible rust as possible.  This will help indicate how much the vertical run might have.  Also check that portion of the pipe that is exposed below the floor (you indicate there's a shut-off valve beneath).

If there's more rust than what a wire brush can remove in a few (several) swipes then a plumber should be called.  Otherwise, if the rust can be quickly removed, a mixture of 1 part dish detergent + 1 part water sprayed on the entire exposed pipe (while gas is on) will reveal leaks via ensuing bubbling.  It's best if one person turns on valve while another sprays pipe assembly.


Why is my new high efficiency furnace blowing cold air sometimes? Why does my new furnace high efficient Payne furnace blow cold air,not constantly but at least 3 different times in a day, my thermastat is set on auto but when the weather is cold outside it will still blow  cold air thru out the house how do I turn this off ,is there an option ? Or do I need to buy a new thermastat that has an off switch for the fan instead of what I have  an / on/auto switch Only

If it's blowing cold air right after it fires up, it's just the cold air that's already inside the ducts, kind of like cold water in your hot water pipes.


Why do my lights turn on when I plug a device into a nearby outlet? I noticed that when i use the plugs in the wall like by plugging my laptop, it turns my dimmer lights on, what may have the cause of this problem and how can i fix it ? please help

If it's a remotely controlled dimmer, it's likely that RF interference from the switching power supply is causing the issue.

You may need an AC mains RF filter, AKA a noise filter, and possibly an RF choke (ferrite core filter) for the line cord, cord to the laptop, or both. You can probably find them in a local hardware store or electronics shop, as well as online.


What is the recommended thickness for wooden steps? I know that it depends on the wood itself, but are there any guidelines for how thick each stairstep should be?

Assuming that it will be held by its sides (with no middle support) and will be around 100 cm (39 inches) wide.

I think the same rationale here could be used for shelves, but I also haven't found anything on that either.

At that length and with a decent thickness (>=1 1/2") you'd probably be fine just using a solid wood plank as long as the species is appropriate. Here's a chart of the modulus of elasticity for some common woods

http://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/wood/146-wood-strengths.html

To be honest, when designing something like a staircase you should really consider having it engineered by an architect or structural engineer just for peace of mind.


3 pole switch with 2 wires Old house.
Replacing existing Bath fan/light/heater with new version.
A single three switch pole (hope I'm describing that right).

Old set up ran 2 12-2s as the power source  We replaced the old wire with new.  We can not figure out how to hook it up at the switch so that each on/off works independently.

Each 12-2 has a black, white, and bare.

Any suggestions?  Do I have to run three lines or at least line with 4 wires (white, black, bare, and red)?  Thanks in advance.

You can do it but you'll need to re-mark one of the neutrals as a "hot".   Use one of the blacks as the heater, and its partner neutral as the proper neutral for all devices.   Use the hot and re-marked neutral in the other bundle for fan and light.

The issue, anytime the neutral does not down the same cable as the hot, is the cables need to be run very tightly together. Anywhere there is distance between them, the gap becomes the core of a transformer and suffers inductive heating in proportion to the current flowed.  Since the heater takes the lion's share of current, I suggest running its hot with the shared neutral.

This issue would have been solved if you had used 12/4 or 12/2/2 wire.    You would need to go to a proper electrical supply house for that, but that's a good idea anyway since their prices on everything are often cheaper.


Can I branch a shower's water supply for laundry sink? I'd like to add a laundry sink in, well, the laundry room. The way the room is set up, I can't branch the supply directly from the washer supply (the washer is placed in a corner on the right and the main waste stack is behind the dryer, to left of the corner-bound washer). There is, however, a shower on the back side of the wall from the desired sink location. Is there anything wrong with branching the supply from the shower (teeing it off and continuing a line down the wall)? I attempted to Google the answer, but didn't quite know how to phrase it, thus finding no answer about mandatory terminal locations of water supply lines (or if that was even a thing to begin with).

I can see a potential problem with dominance of hot water to two sources on the same line, but the hot water heater is just feet down the line. The shower is the first thing to get said hot water, so I don't imagine the few times the laundry sink and shower are in use at the same time being more of an issue then the kitchen sink and the shower who's-more-important problem which exists in every place I've ever lived.

I've got drainage sorted out - and really the supply as well - I just want to make sure that branching from what is currently terminal at the shower is a "thing".

You will be fine to tap the shower supply line there is no code issues doing this. The only problem may be and you have noted this is someone using the sink and shower at the same time. Its the same scenario as when someone flushes a toilet while the shower is in use there may be a change in water temp depending on the type of shower valve and supply line size.


How should I reinforce the center of my desk? I've built a desk out of melamine 55"l 26"w and 30"d the sides are the same material and the center of my desk bends and causes my monitor to wobble. I'd like to reinforce this without large obstruction and was wondering the best way to do that.

On a side note, I've got chips on the edges from when I cut it and was wondering the best way to fill them.

Thanks

This sounds like a quick hack kind of desk -- no shame in that, but as you are finding out it has compromises.  Melamine is just the stiff plastic glued to the woody stuff underneath and provides no structural rigidity.  And the kinds of things melamine is glued to, particleboard and fiberboard, have very weak resistance to breakage.  I would not put a CRT monitor on a particleboard desk surface without reinforcement for example.

Strips of mild steel or hardwood screwed to the underside of the desk and running the entire long axis might help and be unobtrusive.  As an extra step, and one that also solves your edge chips, aluminum angle trim can be glued and screwed to the edges of the desk to reduce flex.  It won't be enough to prevent flex all by itself, but it will help.

If you need to build another desk like this, I would recommend 5/8" plywood as a superior alternative to particleboard, and real wood is best of all, as your finances and skill permits.


Fixing a bathroom vent exhaust going only into attic First, the facts:

We live in Western Oregon (lots of moisture)
Home was built in 1979
Bathroom exhaust fans are vented into attic
I like to do things once and do it right
I am planning on venting the exhaust outside

Questions:

If I vent the exhaust to an outside wall, should I place the vent high up on the wall so it is protected by the roof?  But will I get moisture buildup on bottom of the eave?
Should I place the exhaust vent lower on the outside wall?  It will not be as protected by the eave.
What type of vent should I use?  Is it different than a dryer vent?

The vent should not be placed directly under the eave.  The external cover of the vent when mounted on the wall protects the vent from rain.
Standard galvanized duct piping is used.  Yes, it is the same as the vent duct used for dryer.  You would just use the same ducting type that is vested to the attic.
Exact placement on the exterior wall is also depend on where you route the duct in your attic.
1. Will it block storage space
2. How will you suspend it
3. On the rafters.
This is a picture of vents on the exterior wall.  The vent ducts are round, the cover is a rectangle cap


Combination "Tamper Proof", "GFCI", and "AFCI" receptacle locations? Where "Tamper Proof", "GFCI", and "AFCI" receptacles are required in the same space, how is that accomplished? Is there such a thing as Tamper proof GFCI or Tamper proof AFCI receptacles?

You could use:

An arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) breaker, a tamper resistant (TR) ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacle, and standard TR receptacles.

An AFCI breaker, a standalone GFCI device, and standard TR receptacles.

A dual function circuit interrupter (DFCI), and standard TR receptacles.

NOTES:

There are rules about where an ACFI device can be installed in a circuit, so I'm not sure an AFCI receptacle would work in all situations.

You should be able to find standard, GFCI, and AFCI tamper resistant receptacles. I'm not sure if a dual function receptacle is available at all, but who knows what the future holds.


Is it dangerous to have these electrical cables on top of shower? Remodeling old apartment, the bathroom has electrical cables running through a low ceiling, that we pulled down. There is a remaining part of the low ceiling that we left and can't take down and that's where we routed the electrical cables right under it. Below it is supposed to be the shower.

I was told it would be difficult to move these cables to the wall without crossing the ceiling. That low ceiling or divider in picture below is supposed to be covered in ceramic so the cables will not be exposed. The orange tubes carry cables.

Assuming:

The cables themselves have one or more layers of unbroken, waterproof insulation.
The orange conduit is itself unbroken.
The orange conduit will be covered with a surface impermeable to water and steam before any water is present.

  Is it dangerous to have these electrical cables on top of shower?

No.  It is not the slightest bit dangerous.

Aesthetically and functionally it would be nicer to have the wires, and that beam, out of the way to have a more open shower.  But the electrical safety is not a problem at all.


My waterpik shower keeps running on pause On my waterpik hand held shower, when i try to turn off the spray, the spray just reduces a little bit. It is supposed to just trickle. Any solutions?

If you’re head is flowing at a reduced rate the valve is likely defective. If it’s a trickle, this shower head is operating as designed. They’re not supposed to cut off supply 100% as per international plumbing code. This is to prevent scalding from unmixed hot water in the plumbing lines.

You’ll get used to it, enjoy!


8'x8' platform 8' off the ground. If 4x4 steel columns, do I need bracing? Remote off-grid land with lots of bears, coyotes and even turned wild domesticated dog packs.

I'd like to build a 8'x8'platform 8' off the ground for camping and use the bottom for storage.

If my corners are 4x4 .25 steel.

Do I need bracing if only going to have about 400lb on top at any give time?
2x6 okay for deck support?

It would have a custom ladder I can pull up. Trying to avoid bracing so it can't be climbed by animals (especially black bears). I've heard adult black bears can't reach things over 7.5' and can't really jump or do pullups.

You could have a tremendous amount of dead weight on the platform without any trouble -- it's the liveliness of the load that causes problems. A single person weighing under 200 pounds can cause some sway in a 20,000+ pound bus by standing in the aisle and throwing his weight about, for instance. Consider the activities that will occur up there.

Have you considered a railing for fall safety? If the corner posts are chosen long enough to extend above platform level then they could support a railing; if the railing incorporates diagonal bracing or a shear plane (ie a sheet of plywood) it'll help stiffen the structure against swaying too (though not as much as bracing below the platform could do).

Does the storage of objects below the platform defeat the height of the platform? In other words, can the predators you're protecting against push the storage around and then use it as a step stool of sorts? If so then maybe you need to enclose the space beneath the platform. The enclosing walls could protect any bracing against being used by climbers.. but now the whole thing is starting to look a lot like a shed with a flat roof.


Water pressure became a problem - city water Old house, 1948, city water.
I have regulator on main set to 50psi

We had a problem when washer runs it's impossible to take shower. But recently (last 3 month or so) it became worse. If you take shower and someone flushes toilet water flow in a shower almost goes to the 0.

I have central filter system, so I replaced filters at first, no help.
Then I opened bypass valve (on filter which I have to temporary reroute cold when changing filter) - same thing.

Then I adjusted regulator to 70 psi. Now I get more pressure but once something else uses water - it drops. It almost feels like "not enough volume" if that is correct term.

It's not specific to any of the faucets, not specific to hot or cold. It almost feels like not enough "path through" for more than one recipient.

I ask neighbor and his pressure seem to be OK. He said maybe in a morning when people run sprinklers he would see lower pressures. But other than that - OK

When measuring and all recipient shut - 70psi
When opening kitchen faucet - pressure drops to 40psi
When washer filling up - pressure drops to 20psi

Any suggestions on what that should mean? Bad regulator? When washer running I can hear "hiss" where main comes in to house, so definitely some restriction going on.

You may have galvanized water piping in the house or between the street and the house.  Over time these pipes corrode and the corrosion and collection of minerals makes the inside diameter of the pipes much smaller.  This restricts the flow of water and would explain your issue.  Sadly there is no good fix beyond having the piping replaced with modern copper or plastic.  See this article, note the 5th paragraph describes your issue with the shower and washer exactly.


Was this basement window installed properly? Here's a few photos of a window that I installed last year. I used the mixed knowledge of a few different online articles and did it to my best ability, but I'm kinda worried that it may have been done wrong. If so, and I was wrong in a significant way, I'll probably have to fix it. Any words of wisdom are welcome.

Click images for full size

The only thing at all possibly risky that I see in that AWESOME looking installation is the exterior shot of the window mounting.

The top edge of the window flange (I think is the word) points up, creating a potential point for water entry behind the window.

This is mitigated some by the near proximity of the siding above, but driving rain could still get in there.

I would therefore recommend you put a waterproof material around and over the edges of the window, and extending up to underneath the siding, to ensure that water that does hit that wall cannot get behind the window.

Beside that, dude, that looks great!


Why does my gas fireplace shutdown when fan starts up? My gas fireplace lights and runs fine but will shut down totally including pilot light two minutes after the fan blower turns on..what could be wrong..is it electrical.

A gas fireplace has several temperature sensor settings.

One is to turn on the fan.  When the firebox gets hot, the fan turns on to spread the heat through the room.

There's also an overheat safety setting.  When the firebox gets dangerously hot, the heater shuts down.

It sounds to me like these two settings are too close together.  I'd call in a gas tech for a cleaning and servicing.  It doesn't cost much, and should be done from time to time.

It's likely not electrical, as the overheat protection will work even if the power goes out.


4' flush-mount LED light won't dim I have purchased two identical 4' flush mount LED lights and two identical dimmer switches.  The first set I installed in the master bathroom works perfectly.  The dimmer switch goes from very low light to very bright like just as it should.  The second set in the upstairs bathroom will not dim at all.  I have replaced both the light and the switch now and it still will not dim.  What do I do to make the second bathroom work like the first bathroom?

Test the working dimmer on the light that won't dim...  And test the non working dimmer on the light that you know will dim... to verify its not a bad dimmer or fixture.

Also try swapping the wires on the dimmer....  some dimmers require the hot to connect to a certain pole and the switch leg to connect to a certain pole.  Some dimmers also have an optional third wire for a three way switch configuration, be sure you aren't using that one.


Why does the outlet work for a washer, but not a light fixture? Light fixture works in one room but when I plug it into the outlet in the laundry room it doesn't. The washer works when you plug it in to the same outlet.

Is this a duplex outlet, and if so are you using the same socket ?

If the light works anywhere, the light works.

The difference is something in the outlet. The good answer would be that the outlet is no longer tight enough to make good contact with the lamp plug.

Try squeezing the pins on the plug of the lamp, and then putting it back in the washer socket.

The bad answer is that there is something in the socket or wiring that have too much resistance to allow the small current draw of the lamp, but will let the big current of the washer to go through.

A test would be to plug a toaster, hair dryer or electric heater into the washer socket and see if it works.

If the if any of those work, and the lamp does not, there is a serious problem in the wiring.

It is likely the outlet or the wires right where they attach to the outlet. But you will need repair by someone that can find and fix the problem.


Can I run a heated floor thermostat on a 30 amp sub panel with a 20 amp GFCI breaker? Want to install a heated floor in bathroom. I would like to know if I can run it ona 30 amp subpanel wiht a 20 amp GFCI breaker.

There are lots of variables here which need to be fixed to give a definitive answer, i.e. size of heated area in bathroom, 120 or 240 V heating cables, other circuits/loads on the 30 A subpanel.

However, most thermostats intended for electric in floor heating already include a GFCI, so you need to check your thermostat specs before installation, because a GFCI breaker would not be necessary or recommended in this case. However, a dedicated breaker (GFCI or not) is recommended for the floor heating (and required in some jurisdictions).

Assuming your bath is typical and not Caracalla-sized, then it would work out to between 30 and 50 sq ft heated area (you don't heat under the shower, toilet or sink/vanity), and at 12-15 W/sq ft (depending on the heating system) you're looking at between 360 and 750 W for the floor heating. This represents a max load of 7A @ 120V, or 3.5A at 240V, so not a huge load on the subpanel (depending on your other existing circuits/loads). Certainly a 20A breaker for the floor heating would be adequate.

If the heated area of your floor exceeds about 120 sq ft, then you could exceed the capacity of a 20A breaker. Above about 50 sq ft of heated area, I would recommend a 240V in-floor heating system in any case to balance the load on your 30A panel.


R and C wiring for Air Handler and Zone Panel First time posting a question! But have been reading the questions/answers here for a while now.
Ok- so I have a brand new Goodman Heat Pump system (GSZC + AVPTC air handler) I’ve installed in my house. My duct layout is broken out into 3 zones. I have 3 Nest thermostats, one for each zone. Zoning is controlled by ZoneFirst H32P panel. The zone control panel has a dedicated 24V transformer that provides power to the dampers and will also power the thermostats (from Rc to C terminals on both Nest and zone panel).
My air handling unit (Goodman AVPTC) has its own 24V transformer which powers the control board in the air cabinet, and if wired appropriately can power the thermostats (I’ve tested this by bypassing the zone control panel and wired one thermostat directly to air handler).
My question is what is the right way to have the R and C wires set up for this application where there is a dedicated transformer for each piece of equipment? Should I not have an R wire going from zone panel (top right in picture) to air handler board? My thinking is it’s not necessary to have an R connection between zone board and air handler they’re getting their own 24v supply?
Below is image of the zone control panel:

And here’s a picture of the terminal block in the air handler (pay no attention to wires connected at the moment):

You should wire this controller according to its documentation.   It's pretty clear.  Each thermostat needs R, C, and the other control wires connected to the appropriate zone terminals.  Each heat/cool/fan device needs its own R, and all the rest of its own signal wires except C to be connected to the appropriate terminals.  Exactly per the documentation.
It seems that the only actual question you have is whether you can skip the R wires from the pump and blower to the controller.  You cannot.  Yes, they have their own power supplies, and it is via the R wires and the controller that those power supplies function.  The controller looks like a thermostat to each of the pump and blower, and needs the R wire just as if it was a thermostat.   The controller doesn't need (and has nowhere to connect) C wires from those devices because it doesn't need their power for itself.
It might help you to imagine the controller, simplified, as nothing more than a light switch, on/off, that controls the pump and fan.   In the case of the fan the "light switch" just connects the R to the G wire.   It can't do that if it doesn't have the R wire!    Unlike the thermostats, it doesn't need that R (and C) wire to power itself, but it still needs it to do it's main task ... turn on the fan.


How to inspect an apartment before renting? I've had several major problems with the apartment home I've lived in for the past year.

During the summer time, the air-conditioner didn't work well.  It was eventually fixed, but it took a replacement of the outside unit and new insulation in the attic to bring the daytime temperature of my apartment down to 70 from 85 degrees Farenheight.

After the long, dry summer ended, I almost immediately started having leaks in my roof.  The water drips down into my bedroom every time it rains heavily!  Because of the exceptionally dry weather earlier this year, I didn't know about the problem until more than half-way through the year.

However, I did notice a few small stains in the ceiling, as well as a tiny hole.  I wondered what could make such a small hole; now I know!

What are the most important things to look for in terms of telling if an apartment I'm thinking of renting is going to cause me problems?

Maybe it's a good idea to ask people that already live in the building about problems they had and how well does management handles them.


How can one replace a Lori branded lock that won't fit in a new door I've replaced an exterior door on my house and the old deadbolt won't fit in the new door because the back set is different.
The deadbolt key is common to all my exterior doors, and I'd like to be able use the same key with the new door.
About The Old Lock
The lock may be original to the house which was constructed in 1989. The brand Lori is also associated with Ilco, Kaba, and US locks. The lock cylinder is a mortise style cylinder. The diameter of the notches is 1" and the diameter of the threads is about 1.14". The deadbolt assembly appears to be model 4512-05 S/C US5. I'm only able to find 2" backsets but I need 2-3/4".

The Keyway is KW1 and there are 5 pins.
How can I find a deadbolt that uses the same key as my other locks but fits in this door?

I had a lot of trouble finding information on this lock and I'm pretty sure this style is not as common as I've never encountered it before. When I realized that my key for it was a Kwikset keyway, I determined that it is the same keyway used on the user rekeyable smartkey locks so I ordered a Kwikset 980 (~$25) and was able to re-key it to the Lori key.
Your results may vary
I called Kwikset support to ask if I'd be able to use a non-kwikset key (although it is a Kwikset KW1 keyway) on the smart lock. I was told it may or may not work and they guy had never heard of Lori locks.
In this case, I'm happy it worked.


Pilot light on gas log fireplace extinguishes when turn gas control knob to "on" When preparing my gas log fireplace (Marco model 794153B) for use in cold weather, my pilot light will ignite easily and stay on when release pushing in the control knob, but when I try to turn the control knob to the "on" position, the pilot light extinguishes.  My memory from use of my fireplace last year is that the pilot light stays on throughout the season and only extinguishes when I turn the control knob to "off" at the end of the season.  I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

Once you light the pilot hold it there for up to a minute then turn to on.
It is possible the thermal pile or thermocouple is not quite hot enough.
I find giving it a minute usually works if it still goes out and the flame is hitting the probe of the TC it is time for a new one.
The good thing is they are inexpensive and easy to change.


How do I install glass mosaic tile around an outside rounded corner? I'm installing a glass tile mosaic backsplash in my kitchen. I've got an outside rounded corner that I want to install the tile around. The diameter of the rounded corner is approximately 1". What is the best way to install the tile? Are there corner pieces that I should use (I didn't see anything at Lowe's)? Or do you just cut the tiles to wrap around? Seems that would look odd unless done really well (first time tiling, so not an expert).

I decided not to tile the corner, however, if I did tile the corner, I think I would use position the tile vertically around the corner. I am planning on laying the tile horizontally for the walls and use some of the tile laid vertically for the edges. The corner would then compliment the edges. The only drawback I see to this is that the grout lines will be wider around the corner. Though I could probably solve that by removing the tile from the backing and placing them closer together around the corner.


Low water pressure on refrigerator water dispenser I have a Whirlpool Refrigerator model ED5VHEXVB00 and right now I have a low water pressure coming out of the water dispenser. The water filter needed to be replace this month and the light just turned red so I bought one and replaced it thinking that this might have something to do with the problem.  After replacing the water filter I still have the same problem.  Water pressure is very low and is making very thin ice cubes.

Many times the problem you are describing comes from a saddle valve a small valve that punches a hole in the existing pipe. These valves are notorious for getting plugged and leaking. The best fix would be to install a T  And a shut off valve at the location because in a few months or years most saddle valves start leaking.


Using UK toggle light switch in the US? I have been looking for a specific type of light switch for my home inspired from an architecture tour I took many years ago in France at Villa Cavrois.

Unfortunately, it seems this is an almost impossible to find product in the US and widely and cheaply available in the UK.

My questions are the following:

Is it possible and what would it entail to buy a UK light switch to use in the US home? I care about design but also about safety.
here is the switch in question: https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-10ax-1-gang-2-way-toggle-switch-polished-chrome-with-colour-matched-inserts/63045
Is there a way to keep some of the design features and just match it up to US core parts instead with some DYI mix and match?
Do you guys know any place that would have a US version that would not cost $125  (!!!) a piece, like this one, which is actually the exact one I wanted, with a rectangular plate:

You need to use switches rated for at least 15 amps.  Most UK switches are rated at 10 amps. You could solve that problem by wiring the light through a relay such as a RiB or Aube type low-voltage relay.

Mechanically mounting it in the walls would be easy enough. The trick is don't try to mix-and-match. Use all-UK stuff up until an obvious point of divergence.   So for instance, put the UK switch with a UK cover plate in a UK junction box with UK cable clamps.  The place to transition to US style stuff is at the cable or conduit.  You might have to punch a 1/2"US knockout in the side of the UK box, if you were fitting conduit.  Otherwise UK twin-and-earth clamps will probably work on Romex.

No ring circuits, though.


Replacing GFCI and found two hot wires I was testing the GFCI in my garage and the "test" button would not work.  The receptacle had power but pushing the test button would not cut power.  I turned off the breaker and took the receptacle out of the wall.

The box in the wall has 4 wires coming into from one piece of conduit (no ground wire as conduit has been used throughout the house as a ground).  A red and a light gray (almost white) wire were on the "line" of the GFCI and a black and white wire were on the "load" of the GFCI.

To see if the line and load were backwards, I capped all 4 wires, turned the breaker back on and used a non-contact volt tester.  To my surprise both the red and the black wires were identified as carrying voltage.  Since all wires are in conduit, I thought perhaps the voltage tester was reading phantom voltage.

I bought a new GFCI, turned the breaker off and hooked up the red and light gray wires in the "line" of the GFCI and kept the black/white wires capped.  My multitester read 123 volts and the receptacle worked fine.  All tests of the GFCI were fine.  I then capped the red/light gray wires and hooked up the black/white wires in the "line" of the GFCI.  The receptacle worked fine and my multitester again reads 123 volts.

Moreover, in both of these configurations, I am not able to identify a downstream plug or light that isn't working properly.  Thus, I am convinced that I have two hot wires coming into the same box and i have no idea why this would be the case.

I'm inclined to keep the red/light gray hooked into the "line" of the GFCI and keep the black/white wires capped in the box.  Any thoughts?

I think I know what happened.

First, having red and gray for a second circuit is perfectly reasonable, I do it all the time in conduit.

Anyway.  I suspect the original circuit wiring had a plain duplex receptacle with both tabs broken off.  One socket was served by red and gray.  The other socket was served by black and white.  Why? Because he had 2 large loads he wanted to power -- table saw and dust collector, for instance.  But for whatever reason he wanted to git-r-dun on one duplex receptacle instead of two.

Mind you, in such a case, Code requires that the two circuits be on common maintenance shutoff, because both circuits are on the same yoke (i.e. Receptacle body). It is not required for them to have common trip, or be on opposite poles, but you'll get both as side-effects.

When he was selling the house, the home inspector did a walk-through and red flagged the lack of GFCI in that location.  He went to Home Depot, bought a $16 GFCI+receptacle combo device, noted the 4 screws on the receptacle, noted the 4 screws on the GFCI, and did the obvious.  Didn't work, he couldn't figure out what was wrong, and he just wanted to sell the house... so he gave up.  Inspector walked through, saw GFCI, approved.

Now if you don't care about GFCI, go back to the original plan.

If you don't care about the original plan, cap off the black & white and use the red & gray (or vice versa), attaching only to the LINE terminals and leaving the warning tape on the LOAD terminals.

If you do want the full use of both circuits, then:

if surface mounted, swap that box for a 2-gang deep (2-1/8") 4" or better a 4-11/16" square large box with appropriate 2-gang cover plate.
if flush mounted, get a Surface Conduit Starter Kit, and go off wherever you please (it can be 1 inch) and fit a surface box.  Extend the white/black to the surface box.
Alternately, use a plain 1-gang extension, a 1" or so nipple to a 4" or 4-11/16" square box.

Then you mount two GFCIs, using only the LINE terminals.  Red/gray to one, black/white to the other.


Are foam filters in return important? I recently got all my hvac replaced, and in the returns were these black foam filters. Unfortunately, the drywallers sprayed texture all over them.  I didn't have these in my old returns, but it still seems prudent to replace them. My question is two-fold -- How important are they, and where can I find replacements?  Googling for them turns up nothing and I wasn't able to find anything like them (size-wise, at least) at Home Depot.

these are an aftermarket filter designed to reduce dust and debris entering your ductwork at the intake vent.  they aren't necessary - your furnace filter will keep the air clean before it gets to the fan and heat exchanger.  in my experience, the vent filters do nothing except retard air flow and reduce the efficiency of the system.  don't bother with them, do bother with a new furnace filter every 3-4 months - twice as often as suggested.


Kind of switch required to select between power sources I am installing a 2000 watt pure sine inverter in my RV to run a microwave oven. It is connected to the 110 volt shore power system. I would like to have the microwave and both the shore power and the inverter connected to a selector switch. I don’t know what such a switch is called so it is difficult to find. I hope this not a nuisance question but I have exhausted all of my research options. Thanks for your time.

Transfer Switch
A double-pole double-throw break-before-make is essentially what you need. But there are devices designed exactly for this. Transfer switch is the term.
Large transfer switches are used in buildings to transfer between backup generator and utility power. You just need a small one - ~ 20 Amp - to transfer one circuit, but the principle (and the terminology) is the same. Depending on how your RV electrical supply is setup, you may be able to put a transfer switch inline with the one circuit for the microwave, or you may want to install it with the main breaker panel. If you install it with the main panel then you have to figure out how to separate different circuits so you don't overload the inverter when you flip the switch, though adding some LED lighting or other small loads would probably be fine.
There are automatic transfer switches, but those are typically for unattended switching to generator when the power goes out, but there is no benefit to that here, and in fact you would probably NOT want it on automatic as there will be times when you don't have shore power AND don't want to turn on the inverter either.


How can I add tile to my fireplace? [UPDATE: After reading the question and answers, please see this blog that shows how the fireplace renovation was completed.]

I am getting ready to begin tiling part of my fireplace.  The current finish is a wooden mantle surrounding a masonry façade that runs to the outside edge of the firebox.

This is the current appearance.

I plan to place ceramic tiles over the masonry portion of the façade.  I will probably use stoneware tiles (in an arts and crafts style), either 4x4 or 8x8 for the bulk of the field, possibly with decorative tiles in the corners. (I realize I will have to cut tile, use other sizes, use border tiles, or adjust the moldings to deal with the slightly wider upper field.) I will also check with the manufacturer/supplier to ensure that they are suitable for fireplace installation.

The surface of the masonry façade appears to be a cement-like finish that has been trowelled to look like brick.  Here is a close-up.

The surface seems very solid ith no areas breaking away except for minimal chipping in a few places at the very edge.  The surface also seems to be painted.  There is no significant flaking or loose paint.  See below.

I am not sure what is below the cement-like surface.  I suspect brick, but am not certain.  The fireplace was built around 1905 and possible renovated in 1999, but I am not certain.

My questions are about installation:

  1. Do I have to remove the cement surface before tiling?

  2. Do I have to strip the paint?

  3. What mortar, mastic, adhesive or thinset should be used to hold the tiles?

Obviously, I would like to minimize the prep work but want a strong adhesion.

Cement surface and even paint (scarifed with 50 grit belt sander or similar) can stay, if both are well adhered..

An experiment is in order:

Use a good quality thinset, (Laticrete Platinum 254 or Custom Flexbond)
Trowel on 1/4 inch patch (4in x 4in or so).
Wait 24 hours
Chip off patch with a chisel

Observe the removed thinset:

If it cleaves off with no embedded paint, paint is very well adhered, but may be too slick, scarify through paint layer to cement before tiling.
If some paint embeds, and some thinset remains on surface, it is a good interface layer, proceed with tiling.
If paint cleaves off easily, remove paint fairly thoroughly before tiling.

In no case use a premix mastic thinset or other adhesive to adhere tile.


Polyurethane application flop I applied polyurethane on my really nice formal table. I did not wait 24hours before resanding. I used steel wool the wipe and there are streaks, bumps, and is now looks terrible. How can I fix this?

Use 220G sandpaper to thoroughly sand the top, dust the top and also wipe lightly with a tack rag. Then apply a very thin coat of poly over the top. Do what you can to keep the dust from settling on it. If possible support a piece of poly over the top that will block the dust form dropping in the finish. Allow no drafts in the same room


"power buffer" in front of generator for peak power shaving? I need to do some work off-grid, and I only have a 1000W generator to drive my power tools, which easily draws twice that (and probably more when starting up) when cutting steel.

Instead of getting a new Honda generator that's powerful enough (minimum 1500$ for 2kW where I live) I was thinking of getting some kind of device that would even out the power draw. The tools usually only draw high currents for half a minute, tops, which would mean a energy usage of about 30s*100A=3000As=0.9Ah, each time. Typically, I would just have less than ten of those peaks, meaning I would require something that could deliver peaks of 100+A (1200VA) and be charged for about 10Ah. It needs to provide 220V AC, not DC.

I was browsing around for "super capacitor" and such, but I only found electronics bits. Then I remembered that a UPS serves a similar purpose, but they don't seem to be able to provide the short bursts of current I require (without costing many thousands of dollars).

I also thought about getting a cheap inverter hooked up to a spare 150Ah battery, but "cheap" and 2000W doesn't seem to appear in the same listings ;-) Found some generic cheap Chinese ones, but the reviews all claimed it would only really supply 500 Watts, so I guess there's a reason they're cheap ...

So do people have a tip on how I can achieve not killing my generator without it costing an arm and a leg?

Buy a (petrol-fired) air compressor and pneumatic tools, or go for a bigger generator. (Good) Inverter can cost nearly as much as a generator, also remember that an inverter rated for 2kW has a substained rate of about half. I found on Amazon this 3kW inexpensive inverter, check if it may be good for you. Anyway, with an inverter it's important that the battery can provide all the instantaneous power needed, and also that the wires are thick enough: 3000W@12V -> 250A it needs really big wires (60mm^2). Also remember that motors may require a start-up current that can be more than 7 times the 'rated'.


Is joist sag at connection with header a problem? I am having the ceiling in the finished part of my basement redone, and have it fully open now.  I can see the connection of the joists to the headers have given somewhat, as the house is 85 years old and the joists are not in hangers.  The separation laterally varies from 1/8" to 3/8" from joist to joist and vertically some are fine while others are displaced 1/8" to 1/4".  There is no visible deflection along the length of the joists, and from the floor above there is one minor but noticeable (when standing on it) low spot in the floor.

Picture attached, should I be concerned or is this normal in a house of this age and not likely to worsen?  Would it be advisable to retrofit hangers?

Good question Paul, The situation with your framing is not really normal, but not uncommon  for a house that age. Any time there is separation of framing members, it is a reason for concern and should be addressed. However, I would not say it is a major or alarming problem. There could be a couple of different reasons for this separation. The joists may have shrunk over the years from not being well dried at the time of construction. The other reason could be settling of the outside supporting structure or foundation. A good first step is to confirm level of the joists using a long level or a laser. I prefer using a laser as you can check level and deflection at the same time. This may also help you determine the cause of the floor sag. Any irregularities can be corrected by slight jacking, sistering, shimming or adding supports.

Assuming your framing is fairly level or corrections are made, I would recommend adding joist hangers to all the members. It would be impossible to close the existing gaps, and the gripping force of the existing nails has been compromised over the years from wood shrinkage. Simply hammering them in tighter would not be a permanent solution.  When selecting the hangers, be sure to get the ones that have holes that allow securing to both the joists and center beam. Use the appropriate size joist nails or screws for the holes in the hangers, don't under size and never use drywall screws.  If you use joist nails, get or rent a pneumatic palm nailer, it will make the process a whole lot easier.

Once you have properly installed hangers, you can go ahead with your finishing project being confident there will be no further separation of the joists from the beam.


Footing for a porch? To waterproof the front of our house, we have removed the existing porch and we're debating how to build the new one. The cold room that the old porch was on top of is about 4.5 feet wide, 3.5 feet deep. The cold room is the full height of our basement, about 7.5 feet.

We have received a proposal to build a new porch.

The idea is to tear out the floor, footing and walls removing the cold room entirely. Then we would back fill it, tamp it down, and build a new porch on top.

The design for the this porch calls for 22 in. wide by 9 in. deep footings. We've heard differing opinions that recommend a three foot deep footing.

Is 22 in. x 9 in. sufficient?

The frost line in our area is about three or four feet.

You definitely want your footings to extend below the frost line, otherwise as the ground freezes below your footing it will swell (as water does when it freezes) and the force of the swelling WILL push your footings out of position.

Ice breaks mountains - a porch doesn't stand a chance. :)  Dig DEEP.  With a frost line going as low as 4', I'd dig down 5.

However, that said, the FOOTING doesn't need to be 22" wide from 5' down all the way to the surface - a 22" by roughtly 12" deep footing put 5 feet down and a 6" or so wide reinforced wall coming up to surface would avoid the problems of freezing and save on concrete while offering structure.

This kind of work usually requires a permit as well, and its hard to conceal, so you might want a structural engineer to draw up proper approve-able plans.


Faucet drip after water shut off We had a plumber out to replace our outside hose bibs.  After turning the water back on, one of our faucets in the house now has a drip.  Its nowhere close to the area that the plumber worked on.  Any reason why it would now drip?  Could it be from the initial pressure of turning the water back on?

Turning the water off and on and getting the air bubbles back out of the pipes often loosens up "crud" in the pipes. Some of that crud may be stuck in the sealing part of the valve.

Try opening it all the way and running for a while, perhaps removing the aerator first. You might get lucky and have it work free of the valve mechanism.

In many cases the "crud" is somewhat rusty. It's generally harmless but unappealing - however, if a chunk large enough lodges in the wrong place, it can cause problems.


Worried this Gypsum Wallboard/Drywall could contain asbestos? Anyone know what this is? Has anyone dealt with the FIREPROOF Gypsum Wallboard from the National Gypsum Company? Here are the pics: Wallboard Pics

Websearch quickly finds http://www.mesothelioma.com/asbestos-exposure/companies/national-gypsum.htm

Determining whether your product is one of those listed as containing asbestos is the challenge. For now I would assume the answer is yes until a test has been done.


Old electrical - changing out light fixture Our house was built in 1961 and I’m trying to change a light. I’ve replaced 10 or so already but this one has me stumped. There are 3 incoming sets of wires from 3 sides of the box. The whites are bundled together and 2 of the blacks are together. One black wire has a paint mark on it and was screwed to the light fixture. The fixture had a pull chain but worked off of a switch. There are also copper grounds from each side that continue across the box to one side together and disappear under the drywall. How do I wire this to a new fixture so the the old switch will work? Or should I change the switch too?

Since the light works by the switch your new fixture won't need a switch (pull chain). I like pigtailing if the wires are connected through the fixture not sure from your question. Basicly the 2 wires that connect to the existing fixture connect go to the new fixture. If a metal fixture there should be a ground wire that connects to the ground in the junction box, if a plastic fixture there may not be a ground wire on the new fixture. You should not need to change the switch.


Problems Using Stud Finder on a Textured Wall - Due to Finder or Texture? My wife is having me hang some heavy curtains on a textured wall. Of course, the first thing I did was to get out my stud finder - specifically, my Zircon HD55. I felt I was getting strange results when the finder went over the bumps of the texture, so I tried to look for smooth parts of the texture. When I did so, I got results that seemed less erratic, but still not right. As I searched for a solution, I found a description of the kinds of behavior I'm seeing in this post:

  [the] studs seemed to be upto [sic] a foot wide and at irregular spacings [sic]

I didn't always get studs a foot wide - some seemed to show up as the normal "2-side" of a 2x4. However, even in these cases, the approximately two-inch widths found by the stud finder often did not line up.
My question is whether this could be due to the stud finder (as was assumed by the OP in the linked DIY-SE post and as many people assumed in other stud-finder-related questions), or if it's likely due to the texture on the wall. I've thought that I might just put some cardboard between the texture and the stud-finder, but if it sounds like the problem is due to the stud finder, I don't want to go to the trouble and awkwardness of doing that.

I haven't tried it on a textured wall, but have similar issues with uneven plaster and lath. Try maintaining a steady speed and pressure on the stud finder as you sweep across the wall.  (I'm much more steady with my right hand than my left.)  Try going both directions - left to right, and right to left - at several different heights. Most walls have light switch or outlet boxes attached to studs. Once you find a stud, try searching 16" or 24" to the side.  (Most walls in the US are framed 16" on center.)  It helps to put a strip of painter's tape 8-12" long where you think a stud is, then make repeated passes back and forth, marking the edges each time with a pencil. With some practice (and a bit of luck) you'll find your marks in clusters on each stud edge.  Once you find a couple studs on that wall you can measure and put another piece of tape to use as a starting point for finding others.


How to snake a bathtub with no overflow drain? Our upstairs bath tub has been taking longer and longer to drain and my wife has finally tasked me to fix it.

Yesterday I literally emptied an entire bottle of Liquid Plumber down the drain (following all the directions of course - well, except the fact I used the whole bottle!) and still no difference.

So I borrowed my father-in-law's "snake" and went online to learn-up on how to snake a bathtub. I found two videos that were particularly helpful:

Snaking from the overflow drain
Using two plungers

Both of these methods require an overflow drain to be present in the tub. In both videos, this overflow drain was located about 18" above the main drain. However, my bathtub looks like it's wired a little differently:

Instead of an overflow drain approximately 18" above the main drain, there is this mechanical lever that engages or deactivates the bath plug. Above that is the faucet, and above the faucet is the hot/cold/on/off control.

So I ask: given my setup, and given what I've learned from these two videos/methods, what's the best way for me to unclog my bathtub? Thanks in advance!

Edit: per @BMitch's suggestion, I checked around the perimeter of the "bath plug" and it appears that it is not sealed around a slot running along the very bottom. In other words, it appears that there is actually an opening there, starting around "4:00" position and extending to the "8:00" position...

Your tub has an overflow drain.  You just have to find it. Remove the two screws next to the combination drain toggle & overflow plate.  Now gently pull up to reveal the overflow hole and the drain plug:

Get out your snake (you've got a snake, right?) and thread it down the newly revealed hole.  Also remove the single screw holding the drain screen. Use some sort of semi-flexible plastic rod to clean out the horizontal section of the drain (a suitable tool comes with some bottles of drain cleaner, else you can improvise).

Don't bother with drain cleaner -- it is not right for your situation.


Leaking valve (kohler) I'm replacing the kohler valve for bathroom faucet (hot water). However, this part shown in the picture is leaking. I tried with plumber tape which helps but doesn't stop the leaking. Can anyone tell me what should I do?
Thanks!

The left pipe is the one I'm working on.

I had an issue like this once in a different application. What I did was add a washer under the nut, from the back side. You can usually get a thin rubber washer to stretch around the flare and inside the nut. Other options would be to make sure the nut isn't broken or been over tightened to many times causing scratching and scoring either on the nut or flare surface, or the flare being squished to many times and flattening it out or bending it strange. You could possibly even put a rubber washer between the flare surfaces of each pipe.


What is the name of the metallic part in this image? (some sort of a brace for vertically connecting wooden blocks around the corner?) What do you call the metallic part in the image below? Looks like a type of brace for vertically connecting parts around the corner. I'm looking to buy parts like this for a DIY project.

The "Big Blue Store" calls it a Double 90-degree angle.


Are electrical outlets usually positioned on studs? I lack a studfinder at the moment, and I'm considering getting a wall lamp that I think is just too chic. However, I live in an apartment, meaning any holes that I drilled would need to be filled in. I'd rather not drill all over the world, and I am not very good at the knock-and-listen trick.

But I do know that my electrical outlet's location, which the wall lamp would need to plug into. So, in the U.S., are electrical outlets installed atop a stud? And, do studs (in apartment buildings in the U.S. built in the last 10 years) go straight up and down?

Yes, in general electrical outlets are installed directly next to a stud.

However, apartments may have some different things going on:

There may be metal studs. These are much harder to find by knocking.
Outside walls especially, may be a sheet of drywall on thin strapping with concrete behind, or even the drywall right on the concrete. These walls can still have outlets (they usually install them prior to pouring), and so to hang something up, you need a hammer drill with concrete bits, and a wall plug. I'd be cautious about even using a tapcon, because you don't really know what the concrete is like underneath (poured or block - and if it's block, you may be right on a mortar joint). With a wall plug, it's mostly the drywall that will hold it up.

Do you actually need a stud? How heavy is this lamp? Certainly a stud is better, but you can always use a wall plug. Put a screw in where you suspect you have a stud and want to mount the light, and if you get it wrong, put in a plug.

If it's light enough, as you suggest, some of the adhesive-based hooks are probably good enough (assuming the light can be hung that way).


Light switch not working when grounded I have a light switch connected to a split outlet (one always hot, other controlled by light switch) that appears not to work when the switch is grounded. To be clear, the switch no longer routes power, and the always hot half of the outlet remains working.
I came about this as I was replacing the outlets and switches in my livingroom. I first replaced the outlet as a split outlet, and confirmed that replacement was correct before moving on. Next I went to replace the switch.
The switch is single pole and has 2 wires coming in to it (one black one red). I am assuming the black is hot, and I believe the red goes to the split outlet (I saw a red wire there earlier). The first thing I noticed as odd is that there was a taped off green ground wire in the box.
I decided to untape and attach the ground wire to the switch. The switch does not work.
I unground the switch (but not yet screwed to the box) and the switch operated the outlet just fine.
I screw the switch into the box (I'm assuming it gets grounded by the box), and the switch no longer works.
Any guesses what might be going on?

turns out the problem was with the switch, there was a bad contact with the switch on once seated. I replaced the switch and everything worked as expected


Should my patio heater rod wobble? I am talking about a patio heater which looks something like this
Now, it is operationally all fine and I have had no issues for last two years. However, when I touch the pole that the heater is on, it is not 100% unshakable. It is kind-of wobbly. I did search online to see if this is normal behavior but I did not come across anything with authoratitive anwser on this. I am just worried if I missed something during the assembly OR this is just normal behavior. Can anyone with similar patio heater share their experience as to what kind of sturdyness is expexted from this kind of patio heater?

I have several of those patio heaters and all the assembly parts are very tight fit.  You should closely examine the connection joint and check for any bolts and screws that have loosen or missing.


Replacing LED lights with LED lights but 2 out of 5 has issues I have recessed lights in kitchen.  I placed LED lights in them several year ago, spot/flood screw in.  I just replaced all five with the updated, lighter weight, technology.  When I hit the switch all lights came on.  Click it off and two of the lights did not come back on.  Checked the socket/light by placing the old but working light back in and the light came on. Concluded it was a bad light...but tow of the?  Took back to Lowes and exchange for two new lights.  Place the two exchanged new lights in the sockets did not work.  Took the non working light swapped it with a working "new" light and it worked.  So lights are good, sockets are good as the old lights come on in the sockets.  The only thing I can observe is the contact point on the new lights is slightly wider and the actual contact point is slightly recessed more than the old LED's.  Any suggestions?

My bet is that the middle contact isn't sprung enough to be consistent.

First, turn the breaker off.

Then, gently tug at the central contact in the middle of the light fixture's socket to bend it a tiny bit further forward. Needlenose pliers can work well for this.

Don't bend it too hard; otherwise you'll have a broken light fixture to deal with.


Is this slot on a European style lock cylinder normal? When trying to change the cylinder of my lock (European version), I discovered that it has what seems to be an extra "slot" along the external part:
It looks like it prevents standard cylinder to fit (this is a Heracles lock).
Is this normal? (I guess not)
Is this fixable? (so that I can use other cylinder)

Heracles calls your type of lock the "carénée sésame" (according to Google Translate, the "sesame fairing", though a better English translation would probably be the "sesame edge" or "sesame strip").
An example Euro cylinder from Heracles is the model SR series. In the pictures on that page, you will see that they are mostly standard Euro cylinders but there is one picture of a cylinder with a notch like yours. If you look at the datasheet, you will see that this model is labelled "Spécial remplacement pour carénée sésame" ("Special replacement for sesame fairing"). As far as I can tell, Heracles only makes some of their cylinders for this lock.
Because of the notch, they need to sell separate left-handed and right-handed versions of the cylinder, but I could not find anywhere they explain the purpose of the notch. The most likely reason would be to make sure you don't insert the cylinder backwards (since it is twice as long on one side, which doesn't seem to be very common), but according to the datasheet Heracles also makes other models of 30mm/60mm cylinder without the notch.

It also appears that the newer "SESAME 2" model of the lock no longer has this restriction, though it is hard to confirm that for sure.
Given all that information, the implication is that this was really just a method of controlling what locks you could use. That said, don't go grind off the notch on my say-so, because I don't speak French and can't confirm all this information for sure.


Do I need to worry about random nameless HEPA filters containing asbestos? I bought a cheap "DIY" air purifier with HEPA filter. I think it was this one > https://smartairfilters.com/cn/en/product/hepa-filter/
Then I started reading the history of HEPA filters and found out that they were made with asbestos back in the WW2-Cold war era (just like the particulate layer in gas mask filters).
Do I need to worry about this potentially containing asbestos? Or are modern HEPA filters definitely not made with asbestos?
I also bought some other cheap chinese-made HEPA filters, so the question is not just about that specific one I linked, but more in general.

I would not be too concerned about a HEPA - or any new filter - containing asbestos. Asbestos has been so clearly outlawed for a long time in pretty much any consumer facing usage, especially anything that could result in airborne asbestos (which is the concern - solid/encapsulated is just not a problem) that I find it hard to believe even the Chinese would try to sneak it in, presumably to save a few $.
However, unless the filters are certified by some 3rd-party (preferably US or Europe based) company/organization, I would also not assume that cheap Chinese filters are actually HEPA quality. That is a significant step above ordinary filters. I would treat that "HEPA" label as "hopefully a step above the regular filters from the same company". If you truly need HEPA filtration, don't really on the cheap Chinese stuff.
The Chinese are perfectly capable of producing top-quality products (iPhone, Tesla, etc.) but they are well-known to cut corners and to mislabel items in many different ways when they can. So without a known reputable company or 3rd-party testing, treat these filters as "inexpensive and possibly HEPA" and don't rely on them if you need "clean room" quality or have very allergic people to protect, etc.


How Can I Fill Screw Holes In Beam So I Can Move Screws Slightly? I had a contractor replace a 4x10 beam and two 4x4 posts that supports my deck. He also replaced and enlarged the concrete patio below the deck.

I am in the process of replacing the deck floor so it is not currently present. Before he started, I replace the joists and added hurricane ties into the old beam. That's when I found rot in the beam and hired him to do the work described. A week after he completed his work I discovered that the joists where no longer resting on the new beam but being suspended above it with the hurricane clips. The gap between the joists and the beam varies by joist from 1/8" to 1/4". I now need to remove the hurricane clips and reinstall them with the joists resting on the beam. The challenge is that the existing screw holes are so close that the screws will want to go into them.

Is there a way I can fill these screw holes so I can have new screw holes very near to them? The hurricane clips are on the outside of the beam, should I move them to the inside? Does it matter?

It is highly likely that your beams are made of pressure treated wood.  If so, you should try to use the same type of wood in repairing them.

SHIM - When there is a slight gap between a beam and a joist, that can often be cured with shims, slim pieces of wood (preferably of the same type, or if not available, a rot resistant type such as cedar). Shims should be forced in (tapped in with a hammer) so they are tight. Often you can drive shims from opposite sides. Since they are tapered, opposing shims can make a tight level gap filler.

LEVEL - If you cannot shim them adequately and need to move the joists to meet the beams, you need to make sure they remain reasonably level. They may have a slight pitch down away from the house, and that would be ok. You do not want to cause them to shift so that they slope toward the house. In some circumstances, that could lead to a drainage problem.

FILL - The holes in the beams can be filled with slivers of pressure treated wood that are coated with exterior glue. Force several narrow wedges in to pack the holes. Let the glue dry and then saw or chisel the surface flat. You can then drill new holes even close to the old ones.


What is this small L shaped bracket thing called? I have a drawer that broke because the screw which held this little plastic piece was tightened too far and cracked it. Could someone help me identify it so that I can order another one?

Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit:

Amazon product link


How can I patch the ceiling and rehang a shower curtain rod? I have glass tiled walls in my bathroom, so opted to hang the shower curtain rod from the ceiling to protect the tiles. It looked great, until a house guest recently slipped, and grabbed the curtain for support. This pulled the teardrop bracket out of the ceiling, leaving a small tennis ball size hole. I would like to patch the ceiling, and then reattach the shower curtain rod bracket to ceiling.

Realizing none of this is intended to support a person, or animal, or support anything over a person or animal.

Which answer would you like?

In order of suggested preference, and holding strength

Open up the ceiling enough [24" x 8"] to get a piece of lumber screwed between 2 joists - then patch
Open up the ceiling enough [10" x 6"] to get a piece of lumber laying between 2 joists - then patch
Open up the ceiling enough [8" Circle] to get a fan support bracket between the joists then patch
Open up the ceiling enough [6" x 6"] to get a large piece of drywall on top of ceiling, for 2 layer patch