Do cables that are not NM type need to be derated when used as NM? I am a newbie in this forum but have been looking at some of the wiring in my house especially some XHHW-2 wiring used for the electric range.
I need to have some clarification of cable terminology.

When someone refers to non-l(or NM) cables they are referring to a specific type of cable.  What I mean by this is that the term NM does not include for example XHHW-2 cable.  Correct? (I think I'm reading too much into the term "non-metallic")

I have an NM-B, copper two conductor 14 AWG with one 14 AWG ground cable running through the same hole in a floor joist as an aluminum XHHW-2 three conductor 6 AWG with 1 unshielded 6 AWG ground wire cable.  There is no sort of filler and insulation in the hole.

Does this mean I do not have to derate the ampacity of these cables? Looking at various forums and reading the code I get that impression but then I notice almost all those forums are explicitly talking about NM cable - which takes me back to my first question.

If someone could help clarify things that would be much appreciated.

Neither cable needs to be derated here, for multiple reasons

First off -- you only have one NM cable (the 14/2 W/G) in this hole, as the other cable (the 6-6-6-6) is a type SE cable; the two cables (NM and SE) are distinct in their constructions and usages, and are covered by different articles in the NEC (NM in Article 334, SE in Article 338).  As a result, the requirement in NEC 334.80 paragraph 2 that requires derating of multiple NM cables bundled through an insulation-packed hole in wood framing does not apply here to this situation, as there's only one NM cable to be had:

  Where more than two NM cables containing two or more
  current-carrying conductors are installed, without maintaining
  spacing between the cables, through the same opening in wood
  framing that is to be sealed with thermal insulation, caulk, or
  sealing foam, the allowable ampacity of each conductor shall
  be adjusted in accordance with Table 310.15(B)(3)(a) and the
  provisions of 310.15(A)(2), Exception, shall not apply.

Furthermore, this requirement only applies to sealed openings in wood framing; since your opening is unsealed, this passage would not apply even if you had 20 NM cables in the same opening.  Finally, this passage does not apply to SE cables anyway, as while SE cables are required to be treated as NM cables when used indoors by 338.10(B)(4)(a):

  (a) Interior Installations. In addition to the provisions of
  this article, Type SE service-entrance cable used for interior
  wiring shall comply with the installation requirements of Part II
  of Article 334, excluding 334.80.

  For Type SE cable with ungrounded conductor sizes 10 AWG
  and smaller, where installed in thermal insulation, the ampacity
  shall be in accordance with 60°C (140°F) conductor temperature rating. The maximum conductor temperature rating shall
  be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustment and correction purposes, if the final derated ampacity does not exceed
  that for a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor.

, this passage explicitly excludes 334.80 from its requirements, as the wire insulation (often XHHW-2 or full THHN/THWN-2) on wires in SE cables is more robust than the PVC-only insulation used on the individual wires in a NM cable.


15amp breaker for 9 dual outlets? I tried using my pressure washer in my back patio and it quickly tripped my gfci outlet and I had to reset the breaker. I then noticed that all 4 exterior, 3 garage, and two laundry room outlets were all tied in together. (Laundry room ones not for washer or dryer). Is this safe? I'm still under warranty with the builder, and have an electrician coming out. What can I do to tell them on how to resolve, as I'm sure they won't want to fix??

If this were a commercial installation you'd need to provision 180VA per yoke, or ten duplex receptacles per 1800W (15A) circuit.  However in residential, there is no limit.

However that won't help.  Essentially what you're saying is you want your outlets divided into enough circuits that you never get an overload trip.  That's a tall order.  You're talking one circuit per receptacle.  I'm willing to do that in a kitchen or bathroom, but all over the house? This rapidly reaches a point of diminishing returns, and it doesn't solve the underlying problem.

Understanding how to use electricity

It wouldn't matter if you had 2000 receptacles on a circuit.  Whether it blows or not depends on what loads are in use, what current each load individually draws, and what the total current is. 3 cell phone chargers, 9 LED lights and a table saw, that'll be fine.  A table saw and a dust collector, not gonna happen.

Overload trip

There are two possibilities here.  One is that your pressure washer, combined with the other loads on that circuit, is drawing more than 15 amps.  You will have to research that yourself, but the general concept is that you should learn what each of your loads draws.  It has a nameplate which states rated current, or you can get a gadget called a "Kill-a-Watt" which will tell you what it actually draws real-time.

GFCI trip

The other possibility is that the appliance has a ground fault.  This is, after all, an appliance that involves water.   Somewhere you have a GFCI device which will tell you.  There is a fair chance it is not at the outdoor socket location, as putting GFCI device outdoors tends to be really hard on them, and they can protect the entire circuit from elsewhere.  Anyway, if it is a device that ONLY does GFCI - a GFCI receptacle, switch or deadfront - then you know it was a GFCI trip.  However if it was a GFCI breaker, you need to get its documentation and follow its procedure for determining whether the trip was a ground fault or overload trip.  Most of them make it rather easy.

If it indicates a GFCI trip, move the appliance onto a different GFCI circuit, such as the bathroom or kitchen.  If you don't want to operate the appliance there, get a 3-prong extension cord plugged in there.


Testing circuit breakers? I have a panel of type XO circuit breakers in my house. One of them has failed closed (!) and I need to replace it.

However, a few minutes on Google seems to indicate that this type of breaker is no longer produced. A few sites sell refurbished ones, but other forums mention that this is also problematic. If I buy a refurb breaker, how do I test it to make sure it is good?

The only way to test a circuit breaker is to present it with various loads and see how quickly it pops, and measure whether that matches the formal specifications for that breaker. Theoretically, the folks selling refurbs SHOULD have done exactly that testing, and the manufacturers should have done so at least on samples from the production line... so this becomes a question of now much you are willing to trust your supplier..

Quick tip: I too have a breaker box that takes a format of breaker which is no longer easy to find. However, many houses in my town were (re)wired at about the same time and use the same breaker, so while the major electrical suppliers don't stock these the local hardware stores DO. You might want to check locally before assuming that refurbs are your only option. (My electrician knew this. My solar installer's electrician didn't, and wasted a few hours until someone clued him in.)


Is there some kind of product that will protect curtains from the effects of prolonged sunlight? I've installed some un-backed curtains and have been told that after a few years they may start to disintegrate from being exposed to hundreds of hours of sunlight.

Does anyone know of a product, like UV sprays, that will help protect against this?

You can simply hang sacrificial curtains (muslin, perhaps) behind the curtains you wish to preserve. There's also the distinct possibility that this is pure sales-hype, as I've seen many an old curtain that looked just fine.

In any case, even if you block ALL UV light, that will not prevent fading, according to this site: http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/en/consumer/buildings/basics/windows/fading.htm Most relevant paragraph quoted below.

  The most authoritative research on quantifying fading damage was done in the early 1950s by the United States National Bureau of Standards.  The U.S. Library of Congress undertook this research, in order to design a glass filter to protect the original copies of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution.  Scientists found that blocking all of the ultraviolet radiation portion of the solar spectrum would not eliminate fade damage for most fabrics, but will slow down the rate of fading by a factor of about three.

I didn't see "fabric disintegrating" as a common complaint when looking into this.


How to learn house construction? I want to learn house construction engineering in very cold climate (Sweden), wooden and brick.

It should cover the following questions (you don't need to answer it):

How the roof, walls and ground is designed and dimensioned.
How to determin where to put load bearing walls.
Why the walls structure are the way they are, and how do they carry the load.
how to determin which wall is load bearing in an existing structure.
How to know where to inforce a  structure when a modification is needed like adding a window or another floor.

I want to use this information to design 40 square meters expansion to my current house made of wood. And because I think it is very interesting subject to study.

Where do I begin?

Keep in mind that I'm interested mostly in construction in very cold climate zone.

Most of the courses/tutorials are for larger buildings or unusual house architectures.

I hate physics, but structural engineering is all about physics.

The concept of “designing” structural walls, roofs, foundations, etc. is really the intersection of material’s substance and the concept of load transfer. That is to say, to design roofs, walls, etc. and their connections, you must understand materials and how they move under stress.

For your project, I’d try to understand “common” framing methods. “Common” because they can be accomplished and “common” because they are at least cost.

You ask if it’s different in U.S. than Europe? Yes, in fact, it’s different in Oregon than in California. Observe and learn where you are located.


removing bacteria from bathroom and toilet A tenanted place which I live in has a bathroom that looks nice and clean. However if I spend some time in it my nose will start watering, and I believe the place only looks clean but is flooded with bacteria and hasn't been properly cleaned for decades.

What are some good methods to clean a bathroom completely?

(I'll probably focus on the walls, ceiling, floor, sink, and toilet bowl.)

1/2 cup laundry bleach (5-6% sodium hypochlorite) in 1 gallon of water kills darn near everything. (31 ml/l if you are metric.) If the bleach is more concentrated, use less of it.

Please don't be an idiot and add ammonia, which will result in "everything" including "you" as it reacts to release poison gasses. This information is widely publicized but people seem to keep doing it anyway, thus the warning repeated here. Stick to bleach and water, only. Turn on the ventilation fan or open the window, apply, let it sit for several (5-6) minutes, rinse with plain water.

If bacteria are not the actual cause of your issues this won't help, but it will certainly take care of any bacteria on the surfaces.


Will a curtain across a doorway significantly reduce air flow? I've got a stairway down to a basement that's wide open at the top and at the bottom. The basement gets pretty humid, so we run a dehumidifier down there, but the wide open entry undoubtedly makes the work of the dehumidifier a whole lot harder and less energy efficient. Putting a door on the stairwell isn't practical for code reasons without major reconstruction. Would a curtain across the bottom of the stairs help? It wouldn't be airtight, but would one expect a solid curtain to reduce air / humidity transfer to a degree that would matter?

If there are HVAC vents and a return in the basement, the air is being mixed by your air handler, and a curtain won't make a difference.  If that isn't the case, there aren't natural air currents circulating the air between floors, so again, a curtain won't make a difference.

To the extent there is air mixing between floors, that's probably a good thing for the basement.  Basement humidity that migrates into the house air will get removed by the house air conditioning, and fresh air in the basement will reduce the likelihood of a mold bloom.

All that said, the basement is humid for a reason, and that reason should be investigated.  It's normal to get a little water migration through the basement walls and/or floor.  Basements are also generally cooler, so the relative humidity will be higher.  However, it can also be a sign of an external water problem.

Examine the basement walls and floor for signs of visible wetness (there shouldn't be any; if there are, you've got a problem to deal with).  But even without visible wetness, any water collecting around the foundation will increase what migrates to the inside.

Check gutters and downspouts to ensure that the gutters are tight, the system is clear of debris, and the downspouts discharge far from the house (at least 8' if possible).  You may want to consider downspout extensions, or piping the water farther away.  Make sure there is good grading around the house.  The backfill around the foundation settles for decades and gets eroded; you need to periodically improve the grading.


Installing attic stairs I want to install attic stairs. The rough opening is 30x44 when measured to the wall. Or 30x51 if measured to the end of the opening. Most attic stairs are 30x54. Is there a way to install the stairs with these differences is measurement?  What would I need to do?

If the existing opening is not large enough for the stairs dimensions you will need to enlarge the opening.  This work is for advanced DIY-er's that are comfortable with altering buildings' framing and than patching the sections that are modified.    It may be best if you search for folding stairs smaller or exactly of the dimensions the present opening measures.


how much weight a specific sized concrete slab can carry? Say I have a portion of 10x10 feets. I need to put a concrete slab for that. The thickness of the slab will go 4 inches.

Is there a way to tell, how much weight this slab can carry?

Depending on the percentage of the portions in the mix , a fully cured slab of concrete should have a compressive strength of between 2200-5000 psi. So depending on what the slab needs to support will determine the thickness and configuration of the concrete. A standard residential driveway is commonly 4-6 inches thick concrete with re-enforced steel bars. A residential garage normally is constructed on a 4 inch mono-lithic re-barred slab. These are just generalizations and you should consider all extenuating factors for your project for your region.


How can I repair drywall where it was soaked by a leaking window? Had windy rainstorm and noticed some water damage. What should I do to fix it?

Dry things out with fans to prevent mold. Standard joint compound softens when it gets wet, but it's not necessarily bad at that point. Once that's done thoroughly...
Cut away all loose material with a utility knife and scraping tool. Any tape that has blistered will need to be replaced. Cut it back to solid attachment.
Patch with joint compound and your preferred tape (where needed). Texture to match where necessary.
Prime and paint.


How to fit curtain poles so they won't be pulled down by children? I am putting up a curtain across a large gap, to separate two rooms in my open plan house. I'm concerned about the weight of the curtains combined with children passing through it everyday and don't want to see it pulled down.

It's 4.6kg for the curtain + pole.  Walls are brick and plaster board.

What type of fixing will a strong enough?
Will normal screws + rawl plugs be strong enough or they will just get pulled out once some weight is put on them?

"It's 4.6kg for the curtain + pole" + a hundred pounds of children (or one or more idiot adults). That calls for steel pipe and structural pipe base, preferably threaded and not setscrew, 1" or larger, with long enough masonry screws to embed 1" into the masonry.

If it's in a 'curtain catalogue', that's not good enough. If it needs to not fall down, then it needs to be able to take me doing pull-ups on it, which is a base prerequisite for anything I mount in a home.

If it's not going to be, then it should be flimsy enough that falling on someone's head won't definitely kill them. If it isn't going to be flimsy, then you'd better mount-the-shit-out-of-it. It basically is a pull-up/grab bar, and some poor sod is going to use it as such eventually.


Corroded water heater unions My mom's house has two hot water heaters (duplex). The first I replaced 7 years ago and everything is fine. The second I replaced 5 years ago and the unions are very corroded.

The two water heaters are the same make. They use the same dielectric unions. They are both bonded. The both have anode rods installed. They both use the same city water.

The only difference is the newer heater has a blinking light controller the old one has a dumb controller.

The old heaters used regular unions and were not bonded. They had lots and lots of corrosion. After the first heater didn't develop any corrosion I figured that I solved the problem. I also don't see any leaks.

What could be causing this corrosion and how can I fix it?

The di-electric unions are supposed to have a rubber gasket to insure a water tight seal. The installer may not have gotten the gaskets correctly in place when the unions were installed, did not tighten the union nut correctly, or may have not take the rubber gaskets out before soldering thus ruining or distorting the rubber.


How do I connect an outlet to two black and three white wires? I am rewiring a 3 prong outlet.  I pulled out the old one and found 3 white and 2 black wires attached.  I did not see a ground wire.  How do I rewire these to the new outlet?


Thorough removal of uncured silicone sealant I have used silicone sealant to seal our toilet bowls's socket against the floor tiles. It turned out, the sealant was overaged and didn't cure anymore. So the socket and the bowl is contamined with uncured silicone. I fear that when I try to seal it with a fresh tube of sealant the residue of old silicone might either hamper the curing of the new one or may form a film preventing the proper contact of the new silicone with the bowl and the tiles.
Is my concern justified?
And if so, how do I remove the remnants properly? I think I could try "silicone remover" but those chemicals are usually meant to loosen cured silicone rubber not uncured one. I don't know if that will work.
What household chemicals or common cleaning agents can I use to properly remove any silicone residue?

I think the products sold as silicone removers will work fine, but I think mineral spirits work too.  I'd use an abrasive pad like a Scotch-Brite and maybe a toothbrush-sized wire brush.


Is there a way to fix a leak in the pressurized side of a pool system without digging it up? I have a pool that has a pretty bad leak on the pressurized side, and it's not in the backwash line nor in any line that is above ground. Right now I don't know which pipe has the leak in it, but I just had a new patio poured. This most likely caused the issue, although the concrete guy claimed he did a pressure check. In any case I really don't want to have to dig it up to have get to the leak. So I have 2 questions.

Is there any way that doesn't involved a lucky educated guess to find the leak without digging up and hoping you were right.
Assuming you can find the leak with answer #1, is there a way to fix it that doesn't involve digging up the patio?

The practical answer to both your questions is NO.

One possible solution for you to consider is routing a new line that skirts most of the patio and and then joins into the existing piping near the pool entry.


Multi-Wire Branched Circuit and GFCI Forgive me if this a repeat, but I'd like to be sure I know exactly what's going on. I am installing 2 bathroom fan/light fixtures directly over the tub in 2 adjacent bathrooms on the same circuit.  These need to be protected, so I bought a 15A single pole 120V GE breaker to protect the circuit. When I went to the panel box, I have the black wire going to one 15A breaker (both bathrooms, master bedroom) and red wire going to a 2nd 15A circuit breaker below the first (living room) coming from the same cable. The white and ground go to the neutral bar.  From my reading here, I know that this is a multi-wire branched circuit.  Also from my reading, it looks like to properly protect the 2 bathrooms, I have two options:

1) Install a 2-pole 15A GFCI 240V breaker ($90, but easier)
2) Install 15A GFCI outlets on all outlets ($25-$40, but more involved)

Are these my only options?  Aside from the $ and time involved, are there any differences between my 2 options?

If I go with 1)...my panel uses the 1/2" slim breakers. The 2 breakers on the MWBC are stacked, does it matter WHERE in the panel I put the bigger 2-pole GFCI breaker? I have a few empty spots.

If I go with 2) Do ALL outlets need to be converted to GFCI (including those in the living room) or do ONLY the outlets on the bathroom circuit need to be changed out?  Is there any special wiring I need to adhere to?

Land all your MWBCs on a 2-pole breakers NOW.

First, big safety problem.  If an MWBC has both its legs on the same pole, it will overload the neutral.

It's important to search your entire panel for multi-wire branch circuits and replace all their breakers with 2-pole breakers.  Not two adjacent breakers.  A 2-pole breaker specifically.

Why? GE Qline does not have the concept of a double-stuff breaker.  It has extra nubs on each of the busbars, to which  half-width breakers can clip.  Absolutely nothing in the Qline system forces adjacent half-width breakers onto opposite poles. As a result, simply being adjacent does not assure the breakers are on opposite poles.

However, Qline 2-pole half-width breakers are keyed so they can only land on opposite poles.  So you must put MWBCs on those. They're not expensive.

What is a GFCI?

A GFCI is a black-box which inputs hot(s) and neutral on its "line" side ... and then it outputs protected hot and neutral on its "load" side.

That's it.  That's all there is to a GFCI device.  To signify the protected side, I use brown and gray wire in conduit work, but you can do the same by tagging wires with brown and gray electrical tape.   Now if that's hard to visualize, look at this.

This is a GFCI device in its purest form: a "deadface" GFCI. There aren't any sockets to confuse the matter.  It's very clear that you use this one by putting it somewhere it can serve downstream loads, and connecting two line and two load wires, exactly like the diagram.

Back to MWBCs, you can put a single-phase GFCI device anywhere past a split point.  It will protect everything downline.

I don't really care if you get one that also happens to have a couple convenience outlets wired to the LOAD side.  Just as long as you know what's really happening.

GFCIs and MWBCs

A GFCI compares current flows on hot(s) and its partner neutral.  So in an MWBC, a 1-pole GFCI can only work where the MWBC has forked off a hot and neutral, and neither one will interact again with the other hot.

It's fairly typical in residential installations for an MWBC to fork pretty much at its first junction.  Red and white go one way, and black and (same) white go the other way, and they never meet again.

You can install a simple 1-pole GFCI anywhere past the split point.  For instance in this drawing, the receptacle (the 8 is a receptacle) is right at the break, and could be nudged a bit so it is after the break, by feeding the right-side "circuit 1" off its LOAD terminals.

Your case...

So your objective is to figure out how your wiring is laid out, and where your branch points are.  And then figure out where GFCI's can go in this topology.  If you find that part of the circuit goes off in a 2-wire branch (and never rejoins), you can put a GFCI device at the foot of that branch.

So it really boils down to whether you can find a point in the right place in the topology:  after a split, but still upstream of the tub lanp/fan.  Or whether you can create such a point, and fit a deadface GFCI there.  Or a liveface.  I don't care ;)

Bathroom receptacle circuits

Most (male) electricians don't get this... but a bathroom shouldn't be plunged into darkness from an overcurrent or GFCI trip, while you're holding a rather hot hair curler.  That is simply not safe.

As such it is typical for bathroom lights to be on a different circuit than their receptacles.   There is also a rule that receptacles can't share a circuit with anything except loads in that bathroom; or alternately other receptacles in any bathroom.


Where to unscrew this kitchen faucet I want to replace my kitchen faucet. Where should I remove it?
At the top (the green arrow) or the bottom (the red arrow)?

I recommend BOTH. You need to disconnect at the top (green arrow) to remove the existing faucet, but while you are at it you should disconnect those flex supply lines and replace them with high quality braided stainless steel flex lines.


What to do about the cracks on my wood floor? I am trying to do some repairs of the floor. As you can see on photos, there are some cracks, dents, and gouges.

I am thinking of getting wood filler for these, but I am not sure which one would be best for these types. In addition, I also need to make sure it will not stand out when done. So, I need to find a way around it to match to the rest of the floor. I was thinking of using paint, but I don't know which color and, plus, I tend to be very clumsy in these things.

Any ideas? :)

First, this doesn't look like like solid wood flooring.  At best, this is an engineering wood flooring (plywood).  Mostly likely, since there are 3 boards to a plank, this is a laminate floor.

Second, the finish, in general, is in really bad shape.  Any type of spot refinishing is just going to stick out, maybe as bad as the damage you are trying to cover.

Since this floor is most likely laminate, the typical means of refinishing a floor (sand and refinish) is out the question.  The dark areas is primarily dirt, but using any type of harsh cleaner to get it out and then reseal is also out of the question.  The cleaners will mostly destroy what is left of the finish and the wood look.

If this damage is localized, lets say the entry way, you can always use an area rug to cover.  This I feel is your best option.


What is a tandem breaker (aka duplex, cheater, twin, double-stuff, etc.)? I keep hearing about tandem breakers, and how they won't work with 240V loads and how they should never be used for a multi-wire branch circuit.  Aside from those issues...

What is a tandem breaker?

(note: they can be thrown independently).

It starts with spaces in the panel

A service panel has a basic unit I call a space.  That's apparent when you look at the "knockouts" on the cover.

Electrical power in North America delivers split-phase power. Meaning there are two "legs" or "poles" - L1 and L2 - both 120V from neutral, and opposite-phased so they add up to 240V.

Here's an X-ray of a service panel cover.  See the trick?  The buses are arranged in alternating rows. Every other row is a different pole on both sides. Any single-space breaker gets only one pole and 120V (its circuit also attaches to the neutral bar, not shown) -- but a 2-space breaker has access to both poles and 240V.

A single-space breaker cannot get 240V.  That's very important when we get to duplex breakers.  Now let's fit some breakers.

On the upper right you see a single breaker. This occupies one space and serves one circuit.

On the upper left, you see a 2-pole breaker: this occupies two spaces, and can access both poles L1 and L2.  Both sides will trip together if either side overloads.  This is used for 240V loads, or for multi-wire branch circuits (MWBC).

Backside of a 2-pole or quad breaker.  Note the 2 clips grabbing 2 different poles.

Duplex and friend

On the lower right is the star of the show: the duplex/tandem breaker. This occupies a single space and can only access a single pole.  The sides will not trip together.   It cannot power 240V loads, it must not power MWBCs, and it is generally used for two unrelated circuits.  The entire point of the duplex is to save space in the box.  We often call that a "double-stuff" for obvious reasons, and to emphasize how it's different from a 2-pole.

Back of a duplex breaker. Only one clip to grab one pole.

Lower left is the quad breaker, a 2-pole duplex breaker. Again the purpose is to save space.  It's just what it looks like, 2 duplexes, except it can access both poles L1 and L2, and it has handle-ties so the inner pair will trip together on overload.  That makes it suitable for a 240V load or MWBC.  On this model, the outside pair is also tied together with common trip and can serve 240V loads or MWBC.  Or, you can get these breakers with outer breakers independent.

General Electric's Q-line panels take a different approach to the problem, and you will never find a quadplex in Q-line.

No substitute for spaces

Most panels only allow these double-stuff breakers in certain positions.  Some only forbid it in their labeling, while others actually key the buses so duplex breakers won't fit.  Don't force them.

Nowadays in new or remodel work, most circuits must be GFCI and/or AFCI.  Here's the trick: for most panels, GFCI/AFCI breakers are not available in duplex/tandem/double-stuff. This is why you can no longer add circuits by switching to these, and why being low on breaker spaces is kind of a big deal.  Which is why many of us recommend quite large panels.

The 12-space panel featured here for illustration is terribly small, more befitting a shed than a house.  They are made as large as 60 or even 84 space.  Many will say "40 circuits/30 spaces" meaning they can accommodate double-stuff's in 10 spaces, but only have 30 total. Watch out for that.


How would I ground an internal ethernet surge protector? I have a Cat-6 cable running to an external PoE security camera that I'd like to have surge protected, but I'm unsure how to ground the protector. It has a prong coming off that I assume is the ground wire, but I don't know where to connect this. Is there an adapter to connect it to a close-by outlet and use that as ground? I feel that the location of the surge protector (indoors, about 8 feet high) is too far to try to attach it to an outdoor "to earth" pole.

Here is a link to the surge protector I'll be using.

It's like the old three wire to two wire plug adapters that had the grounding wire. That attaches to the screw on the outlet cover. You may want to get new screw that is bare metal and not coated to make better contact.


How do I get bats in the house to leave? Do they tend to stay on the top floor?  Do they prefer warmer or cooler air? Also, do they always avoid lights? (will they prefer to go into a room with no lighting, as opposed to one with lighting)?

You don't say where you are, but in the UK, "getting bats to leave" would be a crime under the Wildlife and Countryside Act (1981) with a maximum sentence of six months prison.  Other countries are liable to have similar legislation.

Again, in the UK, I would contact the Bat Conservation Trust at https://www.bats.org.uk/.  They will try and help you learn to love your bats (they are wonderful creatures - and they eat mosquitoes), but if they fail at that, they will help you remove them legally.

If you are not in the UK, you will still find their website useful.


Should I paint door hinges? Is it better to paint door hinges when painting a door and frame or should I remove them so they keep a metal look?

I've hung a new door with new hinges and am about to paint. Most of the doors I see have painted hinges but is this just because someone hasn't gone to the effort of removing the door  to paint it or because it's considered better?

Painting hinges is not a question of being better or worse. Depending on the motif, hinge finishes are often selected to complement the door or trim color.  For example: brass metal finish often used with tan trim/doors or natural wood finishes.  Chrome or brushed nickel hardware is popular with white trim/doors.  Hinges and passage sets come in a lot of different metal and colored finishes.

If you do decide to paint the hinges, resist the temptation to simply paint them in place. It is difficult to evenly paint all the surfaces of a hinge and not fill the slots of the screws. When painted in place, the paint will often chip if it dries and bridges the joints of the hinge. It tends to chip when you first open/close the door. I really try to avoid painting hinges, but when I paint new, previously unpainted hinges, I remove them, clean them well, spray paint them, screws included.


Could this cracked drywall be caused by a shifting house? We are in southern Illinois and last Sunday my wife noticed a crack above the kitchen cabinets. We started looking around and have found cracks all over the house in different areas that were not there before. We are starting to see seams in the drywall in different place and nail/screw heads through the drywall. The paint is pulled in many places along where the walls ceilings meet. The windows are out of square (were not before). And almost all the trim in the house is pulled away from the ceiling. We have paneling in one room and it has pulled away in the corners. The wall behind the fireplace has started to pull away from fireplace. Gap gets bigger as you go up. Would this be shifting? Worried because this has all happened in a weeks time. Here are some pics.

I've encountered the same problem in my own home, although the drywall and ceiling seam cracks only showed up one at a time over the course of a few years, and most of them were present when I moved in. If more than one or two seams popped or nail heads started showing within a month, that seems like it could be a rather large settlement in your foundation, or some other structural problem.

I'd highly recommend getting a foundation specialist to your house sooner rather than later to see if your foundation might need piers to support part of it, or if some other repair is required. In my house, a total of 14 piers were needed along the side and front of the house to support one side and prevent further shifting. There were a few hairline cracks (even small cracks can be a bad sign depending on where and how many they are) in the foundation walls, and the corner of the house had settled over 2" before the problem was found.

The problem could also be in load-bearing structures (walls, I-beams in the basement, etc.), especially if it seems the problems are mostly towards the middle of the house.

The sooner you get this fixed (don't just let it go, even if you have to pay a few thousand), the better. You'll avoid more drywall repair later, and prevent further settlement and degradation of your house's structural integrity.


Quick and temp way to cover this floor? The glue in the pic is making me sick and I just want to temporarily cover it until I decide whether I will replace the whole floor etc.

I have some vinyl sheet lying around so I'd like to make use of it if possible. I thought I’ll just cut it to fit and then go around it with silicone(to prevent current adhesive or vinyl backing smell from coming out).

Will this work or what is the minimum I will need to do in order to temporsrily but somewhat effectively cover this beating in mind the edges will meet vinyl tiles.

Perhaps the new sheet needs to be cut, glued down and then something around to seal the underneath in.  Will caulk do it to go around?

Thanks

I don't know if you would glue it down if you are only having it as a temporary, you can cut it and lay it and it will do the job though.

You can silicone the edges and it will leave a nice finish and it is quite easily removed when you decide something permanent.


Subpanel Minimum/Maximum Amperage I plan on having a subpanel ran from the main 200A box to a garage. In order to future-proof electrical needs, do I need to ensure that the breaker serving the subpanel matches the amperage of the mains breaker of the subpanel?

For example, a 100A subpanel needs a 100A mains inside of it (Hence, the 100A rating). It also needs a 100amp serving it from the main box.

Is there harm in over-doing the amperage (assuming the existing circuitry can handle what's available) like that, but never pulling close to the 100A rating?

The breaker in the main panel is the one that matters

The main job here is protecting the wiring from the main panel to the subpanel.  The subpanel also has a rating, but subpanel capacity is cheap so it's very unlikely that the subpanel would be smaller than the wires feeding it.  So the breaker in the main panel will be fine.

If the "future proofing" you have in mind is to allow installation of a larger panel later, just do it now.  Panels are cheap and often come with a bunch of free breakers.  I'm a huge fan of buying the largest panel you can possibly get.  You'll thank me later!

The subpanel "main breaker" is just a switch

Its only function is as a shutoff switch, which is required for some subpanels.  Nobody cares what its amp value is.  You don't want to match it to the breaker ih the main panel, as that would force you into an unnecessarily small subpanel.  Go ahead and put a 225A 60-space subpanel if you want.

Obviously if that main breaker has a GFCI or AFCI function, it will do that too.  (that's more a thing in Europe or Asia.)

The only exception is if for some reason, the subpanel has a smaller rating than the wire/breaker feeding it; then the subpanel's main breaker would protect the subpanel. But that is a very foolish situation to be in;  the difference in cost to a larger panel is typically $30 or $50 tops, and the cost of changing a subpanel is rather considerable.

I want the subpanel breaker to trip first

This doesn't really work.  The vast majority of trips are a magnetic trip (a hard short with hundreds of amps of flow).  It will be totally random which breaker trips first.  For a thermal trip (overload resulting in slow trip), the breaker would have to be significantly smaller to assure it trips first.


Dim only certain lightbulbs on a circuit? The builder built my house with multiple outdoor lights on a single circuit.  Most of the lights are non-dimmable LED wall fixtures, but 2 of them are dimmable 6" LED baffles under an overhang.  He put all of these onto a single dimmer switch, which has now broken 2 of the non-dimmable LED fixtures.  They will no longer light up at any current without blinking.  I have since replaced them and the dimmer switch with a normal on/off switch.

I'd like to power the non-dimmable LED fixtures at full current, but run the LED baffles at a ~10% or so dimmed setting since they're next to a bedroom.  I tried to find "lowest wattage equivalent" baffles for the 6" cans, but even the smallest I could find were still 13W and gave off 900 lumens.

I figure I could do this by cutting into the wall and installing an inline dimmer switch before the 2 dimmable LEDs, since they're at the end of the run.  But, I was hoping for a less invasive way to do this and since these are outside that's not a great solution.  Could I put some kind of inline resistor before the first LED to lower the current to the 2 LED fixtures or something else to permanently dim them?

Thanks.

I used an NO relay at the back of the switch box.  Link here.  The dimmer now dims the LED baffles and the relay always send full current to the non-dimmable LEDs whenever the dimmer is at any level.


What products should I use to add sound insulation to a party wall? My bedroom shares a wall with my neighbours bathroom and I would like to add some sound proofing to my side of the wall. Can anyone recommend any particular products?

The wall is brick and does not have a cavity. Ideally I want to lose as little space as possible from my bedroom so adding a cavity to my side is not an option that I want to consider.

You can get acoustic plasterboard (UK site). It won't block out all the sound (as pointed out on the site) but will reduce it - hopefully to a more tolerable level.

Stick this to the wall and then skim/tile on top.

You will lose a bit of space from your room, but it's only one wall (the party wall).


What can I do about softened polyurethane finish? I have a (bed) headboard that was refinished about 25 years ago.  The original finish was a white French Provincial.  The refinish consisted of white latex paint covered with a glaze. A protective top coat of oil based polyurethane was applied.

I frequently read in bed, so the back of my head contacts the headboard. That spot has become softened and sticky.  I've tried cleaning it with Fantastic, to no avail.

Can you offer any suggestions for me to solve this problem?

It sounds like your hair product or scalp oil has reacted with the poly finish.  I would take some mineral spirits or paint thinner and try to wipe the area vigorously to remove the softened poly and then lightly sand and recoat.  You should probably not rest your head there in the future, or put a pillow between your head and the board.


How can I clean my dryer vent? I called a handyman for cleaning my dryer vent under my house slab. It is a glass pipe vent.  He cleaned it up using water from the laundry room hose.

Is this an okay way to clean up the lint? I also had my lint eater fiber rod and brush stuck inside the drier vent but none of them came out with cleaning using the water.

Does this handyman really know how to clean the dryer vent?

Use fish tape:

It's a sturdy, yet flexible metal rod meant for running cables.  Figure out which of the two openings you can easily pull from, hard.  Insert the tape from that end until it emerges on the other side.  Then cut holes in a towel and secure it to the fish tape with zip ties or hose clamps, and pull it back through.
The rag or towel should force the brush out of its way on the way back.
In the future, NEVER use brush rods that can unscrew to clean a dryer vent.  Only use the kind that are permanently attached to a tough braided wire.


Install carpet tiles over laminate in basement? We currently have laminate flooring in our basement, which appears to be installed directly on the concrete floors. We haven't noticed any moisture issues in the 3 years we've been here; we had some "musty smell" issues in the summer with the A/C running, but a dehumidifier took care of that.

We want to carpet the basement now. We're toying with the idea of putting adhesive carpet tiles directly on the laminate flooring; it's certainly an easy solution, and cost effective for us since we could do it ourselves (instead of having someone tear up the laminate, put down subflooring/padding, etc).

Is this a bad idea?

Give the history you know of with the home, it's probably not a concern. I'd ask the carpet manufacturer how it affects your warranty, though. As easy as laminate is to remove, it might be worth doing.

One drawback to the adhesive tiles--if your basement floods you can't lift the carpet to dry things and salvage it. I've been involved with several basement floods (clean water, not sewage) where we were able to lift the carpet, remove the pad where it's saturated, blow-dry the concrete and carpet, and reinstall the carpet. You can't tell it happened, and this was light-colored plush. Obviously that wouldn't be possible with glue-down tiles. Just something to consider.


How to wire an outdoor GFCI with two pairs, both hot? I have an outdoor duplex outlet which was not GFCI, nor was it protected by a GFCI outlet indoors. I tried to tone the outlet to find the specific circuit, but could not, so I shut off power at the main. After removing the existing duplex from the receptacle box, it had two pairs of wires. "No problem," I thought, "I'll see which pair is line and which is load."

I turned the power on at the circuit breaker, then tested with a multimeter. The problem is that both pairs are live. Since both are live, how do I properly wire this into a single GFCI?

If this truly was a split receptacle, where each receptacle was fed by a separate circuit. Then you'll have to either install two GFCI breakers/receptacles, or cap off one of the feeds.

To my knowledge, there are no multi-circuit GFCI receptacle devices available on the market.


Waterproof lower part of exterior wall We recently had 30" of water in a 1000 year flood. House is gutted so now's the time to fix a recurring problem I had. The previous owners made an add-on to the house where the concrete is only 2" above grade rather than the 6" for the rest of the house. Regular, heavy rain has slowly been rotting the lowest part of the wall. I can't prevent another 30", but is there something I can do to waterproof against the routine 3"?  It's a straight 23' run with an outside corner and another 12' run.  Both walls tie into the existing house and closed in a corner that was previously patio. I know the best solution would be to bring the slab up to the 6", but that is cost prohibitive at the moment.

Diagram of the slab

If you can not work on the inside and raise it then work on the outside. What I would do is use a roll on sealant and add drainage along the exterior walls and draw it away. Consider getting about 10 ft away them use perforated pipes to leech the water lines into the ground and at its ending, possibly look into a 3 ft hole filled with rocks.


Should I tape/support drywall seam next to cabinet? I'm replacing the dry wall in our kitchen and then adding a tile backsplash. What is best practice in terms of taping the seam that is right up against the cabinet base/top?

Should I add horizontal nailers for support behind the drywall? ( I can do this in some cases but in others there is plumbing and or ducts work in the way.)

Basically I'm getting conflicting feedback on whether or not I need a horizontal nailer. On reddit, I hear yes, but this guy uses nothing.

It's unfortunate that you didn't leave a bit of drywall below the cabinet. If you had, you could then either tape the new to the existing or float backing behind the joint, screwing through the upper and lower panels.

As it is, this is entirely a matter of opinion. Do you need backing? No. Your wall will not fall apart without it. However, it'll be much less rigid at the top edge, potentially allowing for problems with your tile. Movement cracks grout (and potentially the tile itself). If anything presses firmly or bumps between studs, damage could occur.

So the question becomes about how can you put backing in there without undue destruction of your vapor barrier and degradation of your insulation, should you deem it important. I don't have any brilliant ideas aside from toenailing one-by lumber in place behind the poly.

You could also use a rigid enough backer to avoid the whole issue. 5/8" plywood or 1/2" cement board might do the job.


How bad is it to have low spots in a mini-split line set? I'm about to install a mini-split system in my shop, and several online sources have recommended strongly against coiling extra line set length, because it creates a low spot that traps condensed refrigerant oil.
But in practice I've seen many installations that have low spots in the lines. How bad is this really?
In my case, I have about 5' of line outside, but I'd like to mount the unit as high on the wall as possible. I can't get much higher than where the line set exits the building, and I can run it horizontally from there, but that makes things a little less aesthetic. I'd like to know what my options are.
I don't want to cut the line if I can avoid it, because I don't want to risk flaring the ends (it would be my first time).

one of the diy systems with precharged line sets there instructions specifically state to coil the excess at the system.
Will a low spot be a real problem? I have not seen one although in theory it sounds like it should. Remember the oil is actually carried with the gas/ liquid to an extent so it is being pushed through the system I doubt you will have problems.
The precharged line sets I have seen are 25’ long and when I install a mini split on a single story I usually use less than 12’ so that would leave 13’ to coil up at the compressor.
Get a flaring tool expensive pro ones are under 30$ Cheap ones under 10$.
Cut and re flair. Honestly even if I purchase line sets I almost always cut factory flairs off because they are usually sloppy and uneven.
On the systems I have pumped down for others the leaks have always been at the factory flairs.
I reflair and wet the surface with nylog (a sealant made for this purpose) torque them down and pump down again with no issues.
The extra time costs so don’t be afraid to flair it is quite easy.
As others have mentioned charging a system requires special licenses and training and equipment in most of the world. When the system is pumped down leaks are usually very obvious but the leak location can be harder to find quality flairs are not hard to make just leave an extra foot at the compressor, practice on the pice you cut off then do the real one. (Don’t forget to put the nut on first I have forgotten this when having a beer and BSing with a friend while doing his system, you figure it out real fast lol).


Toilet Supply Valve Not Turning Off Novice here.
The fill valve was leaking and causing the water to coming very very slow. Like 45 minutes to fill up tank. I bought a fill valve top and replaced it. Let me add that I did turn water off at the supply valve but water was still trickling up the fill valve. Like the water was not completely shutting off.

After replacement I turned the water back on and the water would not stop coming in the tank. Even when the float lifted on the fill valve. I flushed and same thing. Turned water off again and water would very slowly start filling the tank.

EDIT:
From comments I will have to replace the Fill Valve. My concern is the supply valve not completely shutting the water off. This is a older house so it would have to be shut off at the main. I don't know how to do this.

If there is very little water coming out from the supply valve could I still install/hook up the Fill Valve?

Thank you.

The proper way to address this is to turn off the water and replace both valves.

EVERY HOME OWNER should know where the main water supply enters the house and where the valve is located in their home. It may be coming out of the ground in a crawl space, in a wall behind an access panel, in the utility room where the water heater is or elsewhere.

  If there is very little water coming out from the supply valve could I
  still install/hook up the Fill Valve?

Yes IF the flow is slow enough that you can capture it in container before the container overflows.

If the flow is significant then it is not practical.

I have done this more than once. Leave the supply hose attached to the supply valve and put the end that connects to the fill valve in a bowl or bucket. This may be difficult in the small space between the toilet and the wall. You may need a small bowl and that could result in having to empty it frequently while you are changing the fill valve. Fortunately you have a many places to empty it in a bathroom.

Doable but not exactly fun, two containers so you can have one catching the flow while you empty the other.

Install a new 1/4 turn supply valve and a new braided supply line if it is as old as the valve.

Edit: Jack makes a good point about the age of the valve. If your main valve is a gate valve it is probable that it may have issues shutting off completely or getting it open again. The only way to change that valve is to call your water utility company and have them shut off the water supply at the curb main shut off. Then you can install a new 1/4 turn valve, much nicer. If you do get it back on make sure you open it all the way, counter clockwise until it stops. It can leak if you do  not. I flooded a basement once because i did not open it completely and it leaked, opening it completely stopped the leak.


Wiring a blank face afci, gfci and a regular outlets in a circuit, made a loud noise in gfci box I've a new basement kitchen 20amp circuit (with regular 20 amp breaker) that has a blank face AFCI (near the panel), GFCI outlet (first outlet in the kitchen) and regular outlet at the end (used a 15 amp in a 20 amp circuit for testing purposes only. Did not have a 20amp outlet). See picture below to see how I wired them (note: AFCi was blank face).

When turned on the breaker and reset the AFCI (comes as off mode), small explosion took place in the GFCI box.
Turned off the breaker and checked to and saw the black line wire to GFCI was severed, in side the box. Checked the wiring and it was correct (already have 4 other new circuits that are protected by either AFCI or GFCI, but not both in the same branch circuit).
Then disconnected the regular outlet, repaired the connection and tried again (with AFCI and GFCI only). Seemed to have been working ok.
Used an outlet tester (Kline tools see below for pic.) with lights to test them. When both are on tester indicates it was wired correctly. When the AFCI is off and GFCI is on, tester plugged into GFCI was off. When AFCI is on and GFCI is off the test lights indicate the hot and ground were reversed.
Can anyone shed some light into why 1) the small explosion happened? 2) the tester lights indicate that ground and hot are reversed? Btw, I did check the connections yet again and they are correctly wired, no cuts and not touching.
Also, I did the above testing with a table lamp plugged to the GFCI and the lamp was off when either AFCI or GFCI was set to off.

If the picture does not show the correct way to wire, how to do it. A picture is better, with explanation.

Remember: the run from service panel to first AFCI must be either metal-jacketed cable or metal conduit.
I would find that drawing very confusing.  It's always a struggle to show neutral on a white background (hint: don't), but what ere they thinking?  White is the legally required neutral color, and black is the conventional hot color.   So that bung drawing is certainly inviting a hot-neutral reverse sort of mistake.
Anyway, it sounds like your "ka-boom" happened either due to a wiring error, or due to a ground wire touching a hot terminal screw on the "Line" side (if it was on the "Load" side the GFCI would've tripped obviously).   It became a "race condition" between the AFCI detecting an arc fault, the circuit breaker tripping for overcurrent, or the short condition burning itself out.  It sounds like the latter won.

Those 3-lamp testers are rather useful for doing 3 "neon light tester" tests simultaneously... but the sticker's opinion of what the problem is, is so laughably wrong that I call them "Magic 8-ball" testers.

What you have is outer yellow (hot-ground) and red (neutral-ground) lights lit.  That is a typical sign of a lost neutral, with a load plugged in and turned on that is effectively connecting the hot to the dead side of the neutral.
Here's that drawing, fixed.  The creator of that drawing should not be giving AC mains wiring advice in North America.


How can I make low ceilings appear taller? I am having my basement remodeled. The ceiling is about 6'6 recessed lighting has already been installed. I would like to know what I can do do make the ceiling appear taller.

Generally speaking, a room with a light-colored ceiling will appear taller than a room with a dark-colored ceiling. However, in a really small space painted in a darker color, painting the ceiling the same color will make the border between wall and ceiling disappear, making it more difficult to gauge the ceiling height by sight.

A related technique for rooms painted in "warm" tones is to tint your ceiling paint two shades lighter than your walls, but in the same basic hue. This will blur the line without creating a "closed-in" feel that a darker ceiling can create.

Using vertical stripes on the walls will draw the eye up and down and will make the walls appear taller than they really are.

You can also cheat perspective a little by blurring the line between wall and ceiling. Painting a gradient between the wall color and ceiling color, that begins on the wall and ends on the ceiling, will give a somewhat forced perspective that makes the room look taller. Similarly but easier, painting a border the same color as the dark walls on the white ceiling will give an impression that the wall continues slightly higher than it really does before the ceiling begins.

One last thing; while the recessed lighting stays out of people's way, it won't illuminate the full 180* sweep from the edge on one side of the ceiling to the opposite edge; you'll get a band of shadow caused by the angle that the light is recessed into its can or tray. This can bring down the perceived height of the walls. Try filling the room with light from other sources, like wall sconces or table/floor lamps, to put light up along the walls filling the shadow.


How to get heating system working again? We have an oil-fired boiler that does both the hot water and the forced hot water baseboard heating system.

It was unusually cold and windy last night here in north-central Massachusetts.  I turned down the thermostat before going to bed as usual.  Apparently one or more blockages froze in the main floor loop during the time it was cooling down before the thermostat called for heat again.  By morning the circulation pump was constantly running, but nothing was flowing thru the main floor loop.  The upstairs loop was working fine.

Using hair dryers and a heat gun, I think all the pipes were warmed to melt any ice in them.  This also happened 25 years ago, and at that time I created small pinhole taps at a few points in the loop where it is accessible in the basement.  These were for relieving pressure, and to see where the ice blockages were.  I opened these taps, and initially just a short burst came out.  After clearing the ice blockages, a steady stream came out as expected.

However, after a little while water stopped flowing and air was getting sucked into the one tap hole left open about midway thru the loop.  Now both loops seem to not have water in them, and the top floor is no longer getting heat (the loop that never froze).  I can see that the circulating pump running constantly, and no water comes out of the valves when opened just above the zone valves by the boiler in the basement.

Two questions:

How do I get the heat working again?

How is water supposed to replace any leaked out of the heating system, or get in there in the first place?  I assumed there was a one-way valve someplace that lets normal house water into the heating system, but apparently not.  I looked at the spaghetti plumbing by the boiler and think I figured out what each pipe does, but I see no obvious connection from the water system to the heating system.  Perhaps this is hidden inside the boiler unit?

Step zero for the future (you've figured this out by now, but let's state it loud and clear) - extreme cold is when you don't want a setback at all - I shifted my thermostat from its usual automatic to "hold temp" last night (same cold front) for that reason. You can also have a circuit installed that runs the circulator every so often regardless of call for heat as another way to prevent this.

There is normally a valve to fill the system, it will be external to the boiler, and it may well not be automatic (or there may be an automatic and a manual in series, with the manual normally shut.) There is usually but not always an "anti-backflow preventer" as part of the fill system. There may also be something that looks like a pressure regulator, with a toggle on it that can be manually manipulated.

In front is the overflow pipe from the relief valve, behind is the "pressure-regulator-looking" fill valve (the part that's manipulatable is just off the picture, sorry - a toggle you can lift to force some flow) and below that is a manual valve that has to be open to fill the boiler. The entry location is typical (right at the bottom of the boiler) but that's not a given.

Circulator pumps don't do well with air in the system. You will need to replace the water that's leaked out AND remove air from the system at bleeder valves (typically found on elbows in high parts of the system)

There should be a temperature/pressure gauge on the boiler. You typically want 20-30PSI showing on that.


Can I upgrade my service and install a new panel? I asked this question in a convoluted way and didn't get any answers, so I thought I'd ask again and make my question clearer with more images.

I have a 150 amp disconnect at the meter. The box only has the 150 amp disconnect with no additional room (see picture). The 150 amp sub panel inside the house is full.

I'd like to upgrade that box with 200 amp service and some room for additional breakers.

Can I install a 200 amp box like the image below, then add a 150 amp breaker (also pictured) for the 150 sub panel in the house, leaving me with additional space for more breakers?

@Tester101: to answer some of your questions and address your points: 1) The overhead conductors that run from the pole to the meter are adequately sized for 200 amp service 2) The meter and the disconnect are in the same box (as shown), so the issue of adequately sized conductors between the meter and disconnect is minor 3) The grounding/bonding conductors may have to be upgraded, but I'll consult an electrician for that (and all of the issues you've mentioned...I had not planned on proceeding without having a pro review my plans). I really just wanted to make sure I was on the right track re: replacing the meter/disconnect box with a larger disconnect (200 amps), then have a 150 amp breaker for the main subpanel already located in the house. I would then have additional room in the new meter/disconnect box to add circuits as needed

You can't just throw in a bigger breaker, and expect it to work the way you want.

First of all, you're going to have to have the utility install conductors sized appropriately for 200 ampere service. Depending on how the building is wired, you'll also have to upgrade the conductors that run from the service drop to the meter (this might be handled by the utility, depending on how the building is wired). Next, you're going to have to upgrade the conductors that run between the meter and the disconnect (likely handled by installing the new panel pictured). Finally, you may have to upgrade some of your grounding and bonding conductors, as they are typically sized based on the size of the service.

Once all that's done, then you can likely proceed as you've described. However, you're going to have to evaluate how the system is grounded. The service neutral will have to be bonded in the new panel, where the 200 amp disconnect lives. Then you'll have to feed the existing panel (now a secondary panel), with a 4 wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral, ground). You'll also have to isolate the grounded (neutral) bar in the existing panel, if it's not already.

Long story short, this is not a simple job. There are a lot of subtle details, that can easily be missed by a DIYer.  I would recommend having an Electrician at least help you plan the project, and inspect the completed work.


Is there a limit to the number of holes bored in a joist? I already know that a hole bored in a sawn lumber joist cannot be within 2" of any edge or any other notch or hole. And that the hole can only be a maximum of 1/3 the depth of the member (International Residential Code 2012 R502.8). Given all this, is this a code compliant joist?

For more detail on the code used to determine the dimensions mentioned above, see this answer.

After doing more research, I've found sources that recommend not placing holes closer to each other than the maximum hole size. For example, in a 2x10 holes should be at least 3 5/64" away from each other.

If there is nothing in the code of practice which specifies a limit to the number of holes, then there is no limit to the number of holes.

From an engineering standpoint, this is because a beam with holes in it can act like a truss (see e.g. the bailey truss). The minimum hole sizes and minimum spacing is to allow enough timber to act as the vertical/inclined "truss elements". Therefore if it is ok to have two large, closely spaced holes at any arbitrary position along the beam, then it is ok to have holes of that diameter and spacing the whole way along the beam.


Without using dowels, how do I join 2x4s edge to edge to be 1.5" x 7"? I am trying to join a 2x4 supporting a workbench tabletop to another to make a backsplash of sorts. Any ideas how to do this without dowels? (No, I can't use 2x8)

I would definitely use Pocket-hole joinery

My brother got me a jig that is very easy to use, and the joints are incredibly strong even without wood glue; also if you use glue the joins are "self clamping".

Basically this allows you to edge-join, or do 45 degree angles, etc. just by drilling a couple of perfectly angled holes and screwing the pieces together such that the screw doesn't protrude from your work.

Obviously, I wouldn't get a jig for just one project, but I have totally stopped using dowels, biscuits, and other fancy techniques in favor of pocket holes.

Hope this helps!


How to connecting addition frame to existing rim joist We have an addition that we are adding to our house. We built a new foundation (J-shaped, see image below). Building the floor frame over the new foundation will be done with the standard sill plate and rim joist setup on the right side, but how we do connect the joists to the existing rim joists on the left? I see two options but not sure which is code compliant and easy to get approval from the building inspectors:

Use a joist hanger on each joist (lost of hand nailing!) to connect them to existing rim joist.
Build a standard frame with a new rim joist on both sides and nail the new rim joist to existing rim joist.

Structural details: the new area is 12 feet by 4 feet, pretty narrow. So we are using 2x6s for the joists.

You'll need to use hangers regardless. Face-nailing (as I assume you're implying by your mention of a "standard frame") isn't adequate to carry joists. They need actual bearing.

An alternative could be a new ledger set below the existing rim joist, itself mounted with structural steel ledger hangers, on which the joists rest. I suspect that your inspector would still require a more substantial wall connection for each joist, though.


Best way to avoid pipe freeze in exterior wall? We have an exterior wall framed with 2x6's. We are running PEX piping to a pot filler faucet through this wall to go above the stove top. Is there any precaution we should be taking besides standard install? We live in KS so winters can get cold, but not horrible.

Bear in mind that even though precautions are made, it is still possible for the pipes to freeze in a particularly harsh winter.

You are going to want a shut off valve with a built in drain on it. This will allow you to winterize it. The shutoff should be located in an accessible place which is below where the tap will be. If you are on the first floor, then the shutoff should go in the basement/crawl space.

When you install the plumbing, you will want to keep the supply pipes as close to the inside wall as possible. In a 2 x 6 wall, you would want to bore the holes in the studs slightly off center, approx. 1" to 1 1/2" from the inside instead of dead center. You will also need to install a nail protection plate on the studs where the pipe passes through, so the pipe would not get pierced when the drywall is installed. It would also be a good idea to add a tile backsplash which completely covers the area where the pipe is, so someone won't drive a nail or a screw into the pipe later on.

This will allow you to add more insulation behind the pipe. The best insulation for this is closed cell foam, since it acts as a vapor barrier as well. You will want to eliminate any possible cold drafts that could hit the pipe. Also, when you insulate, you will want to leave the side of the pipe facing the inside uninsulated. This will allow more heat from the house to come in contact with the pipe.

If you can live without the pot filler during the winter months, the safest thing would be to winterize it. That way there is no chance that the pipes would freeze. You can also leave the water on a tiny bit and let it drip slowly on the coldest days to prevent it from freezing up. The good thing about PEX is that it can survive being frozen from time to time, but it is possible that the fittings themselves can fail.


How to unclog a toilet? (solid object obstruction) I just accidentally flushed my toothbrush down the toilet.  (Bathroom multitasking: bad idea.)

The toilet still flushes, but it's draining more slowly.

What should I do?

EDIT

Phew! After 15 harrowing minutes I got it out with a coat hanger.

I've learned my lesson. Multitasking?  Never again.

As the comments suggested, first try and grab it with your hands.  If it's passed the point you can reach, you will likely need to use a Toilet Auger to dislodge it.

(source: homedepot.ca)

Tooth brushes tend to be problematic because of their shape relative to the trap in the toilet - they can really get wedged in there!  Worst case scenario it might not be removable.


Any concerns with running a camper with a 15 amp connector I have a camper that I need to have power to for a couple of days. It has a 30amp 25ft cord for power which I want to plug into an adapter so it can plug into a regular wall socket. The connector is from camping world and is about 18 inches long and is a 30 amp to 15 amp connector. The outlet is on a 20 amp circuit. Everything seems to work and the breaker isn't tripping, mainly because I have nothing else on the circuit and am only running the AC and lights in the camper. My concern is that the outlet does get a little warm and I'm wondering if I should be concerned?  Could it get hot enough to melt or cause a fire without tripping the breaker? Anything else I should consider or do?

Please edit my tags if I tagged improperly. Im usually only active on Stackoverflow.  Thanks!

Here is an example of the connector

http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=201103&Store_Code=MHPS&gdffi=5a91c85c988a43159be79f03f721bc24&gdfms=3BD1A1DCA412425BACF279B7BD4E5C34&gclid=CO-RqNCGnM4CFQKTaQod3oIFBQ

It is fairly common for RV and trailer owners to use a 30-15 amp adapter while they are stored, to power the on-board trickle charger for the battery, for lighting, and for the refrigerator.

The problem is when someone uses the AC and a combination of these other things. You may very well trip the breaker in your home panel, and/or end up with an adapter that looks like this:

The rule of thumb is that if you need to run the AC, run only the AC unless you have a 30 amp circuit for your un-adapted power cord.


filtered air intake for whole house fan I'm installing a new whole-house-fan, and am expecting good results. We live at 8,000' and have ~40 degree (f) temperature swings between day and night with very little humidity.

But we also have forest fires mid summer, generally during the hottest parts of the year (when we want to use the fan the most), and the air can sometimes be very smokey, and I don't want to just keep the downstairs windows open.

I know that an air conditioner would be best because it doesn't require importing outside air, but I'm hoping there's some way to filter outside air on the way in. My fan is ~2200 CFM, as far as sizing goes.

Is there a common and preferred method to filter ~2200 CFM of air that would be drawn into a home that's using a ~2200 CFM whole house exhaust fan?

I am doing this now. Using a 10"x36" carbon filter attached to a window vent (so it's kind of automatic). This is good for 1400 CFM. If you go up to 12" or 14" I'm sure it can handle 2200 CFM. About $200 on Amazon


Multiple Toilets Bubble when shower turned on We just moved into a rental home after selling our home and waiting for our next home. It has 3 toilets.

Someone was in the shower and the toilets started bubbling, all 3 toilets. The shower was not backing up. I tried flushing one of the toilets and it started to fill with water. After about 20 minutes we plunged all the toilets and the water went down.

I understand it is a rental but we were very lucky to get this rental for a short term lease and if there is an easy fix (my husband is a repair man) he would do it himself.

I don't know if this makes a difference but the day before we moved in there was a storm and the roof above a half bath was damaged. The roof was fixed that day, but a piece of drywall around the vent is being fixed monday.

Ive read some threads on the issue, but I have never heard anyone say all the toilets bubbled when one specific shower is turned on. The toliets are not even close to each other. The house is 2700 sq ft on one floor. No neighbors are having issues. We are in a HOA that maintains the water service (sewer). The house is one a hill, level lot but on a hill. It has a small pool and spa that run all the time (like water spilling over from the hot tub to the pool in a loop. I don't care if this feature is on and didn't know if turning it off would help.

Any advice would be appreciated.

This is a classic symptom of a restriction/blockage of the main sewer line downstream of the toilets. No way to know for sure without scoping with a camera and/or running a mainline sewer cable.

You say

  We are in a HOA that maintains the water service (sewer)

It is the HOA's responsibility to clear this up. If you don't feel comfortable reporting it because you are subletting, have the leaseholder report it. How will you feel reporting it if there is a backup which floods the entire unit?


Adding vents to duct? My house has forced air HVAC. When I finished the basement, I used a closed cell foam insulation that worked very well. The basement will get only 8 degrees cooler than the first floor during a time when it's zero F overnight. Now that my family is spending more time down there, they are asking for a bit warmer.

This is the duct I want to tap into, 10-1/2" high, 24" wide measured over the drywall. There are 2x4s wrapped around the duct to hold the drywall. I'd like to put 2 vents on it. This leads to my questions.

All the metal duct pieces I see at Home Depot assume a connection to a round duct, and in fact, this is how this huge box ultimately feeds the floor above it. This seems to tell me that what I'm about to do isn't really ideal. So, right here, I'll ask for an alternate suggestion.
But if I'm willing to risk having that room above give up some air flow, what's the best method to physically produce the vent holes here?

The second choice to add a few degrees would be a baseboard mounted electric heater. This is what I use in a room over the garage where the airflow was ok, but it was too big a fight against the garage being not insulated, so the whole floor was freezing. At least here, we're just talking less than 10 degrees to warm up. And it's only during the freezing cold snaps.

Last, in the summer the basement is as cool as the first floor, even on hottest days.

Update - that side? Metal beam. Instead, I put a ceiling vent 12x8" on the underside. 24 hours later, the room is 5F cooler than 1st floor, from the 10F it was prior. Yes, it's a trunk to feed vents on the first floor, but the loss isn't noticeable. My next step is to pop one more 12x8 and see what difference is left. A space heater can be usedfor a few degrees delta, but 10 was just too much.

You may look into installing a vent in the furnace room if you have one next to that area. This may allow you to draw heat from the furnace room, into your finished basement area, up the stairs to the first floor and back down again. Depends on where the return is and how things are "zoned".

If you do install on the drywall get as low as possible so the heat sweeps across your comfort area to the nearest return. Heat rises... Install dampers so you can tweak the amount cool feeding into the basement during the summer. Follow the path of airflow and calculate as much as you can. In tools such as Revit (warning: steep learning curve) it is called a load analysis; though, it can be done back of the hand.

If you already have a ducted system, I wouldn't install an electric heater. Nice for a small area such as a desk/bathroom, but do keep in mind how they affect humidity.


Is it normal for the voltage tester to beep when touching the refrigerator frames? I've bought a Klein Tools NCVT-3 non-contact voltage tester and while I was playing with it I've found the tester beeps whenever it touches the frame of the refrigerator. This won't happen with any of our other appliances like the microwave oven or the dishwasher. Is this an expected behavior or does it indicate something is wrong with my refrigerator?

Since it's only detecting it near the water dispenser, everything is most likely working properly.

The water dispenser will likely have some electrical wiring near it to run motors or valves or what have you, and that is what it is picking up.  They are probably run quite close to the surface of the frame.  Your meter is designed to detect up to about 2 inches away from the wires.  That distance might be different through metal.

Other appliances you tested probably have their wiring further inside the unit, or shielded better.  If you tried hard enough, you'd probably see similar behaviour with other appliances near where their motors are.


No heat from AC after new coils in air handler and new thermostat I just had new evaporator coils and a new thermostat installed.  This was all due to a leak in the evaporator coils.  Now I have nice new shiny aluminum coils.  Once the system was filled with gas and the AC fired up it was amazing.  It was cooling the house like it hadn't in years.  Really cold air blowing out.  The issue is that now the heat doesn't "fully" work".

Here is what I mean by "fully".  When I switch the thermostat to heat and then crank the heat up a few degrees higher than the room temp I can hear the thermostat click and then the heat starts blowing. A quick check shows the air is coming out of the vents at about 80 degrees F (about 5 degrees warmer than room temp).  When I walk outside to the heat pump the pipe going in is hot to the touch.  To hot to keep your hand on it.  So all seems well and good until about 4 or so minutes later.  At that point the air suddenly starts blowing cooler out of the vent (about room temp air) and eventually the pipe outside that was VERY hot starts to cool down.  Not cold like when the AC is on, but not hot at all.

My AC guy isn't sure what is going on.  He has replaced the thermostat once already.  The outside unit is a Trane.  Before this repair, while the AC was not cold the heat worked just fine.  Now I have a AC that is amazing and no heat.  Is it possible the wires are incorrect in the thermostat?  The replacement thermostat (Honeywell TH3210D) does not have the exact same wire labels as the old one (Simple Comfort SC2200).  The old thermostat has

B O W2 G E Y1 Y2

The new thermostat has

E AUX Y G O L R B C

Unfortunately I don't have a picture of the old way it was wired, but the new one has wires going into

E Y G O R

There are no jumpers.

Any ideas?  I would think if the compressor was having an issue that the cold would not work either.  It also is strange that when the heat first comes on it appears to work, but then stops a few minutes later.

You need to find a real heat pump service person. It's hard to trouble shoot a system without being there. Did he put in a correct refrigerant charge amount and the correct type refrigerant? Is the new coil the same size (BTU) capacity as the old coil? Does it have the same type expansion valve? Has anyone used gauges, if so what do the pressures do when the unit heats then begins to cool off? Does the compressor change it"s tune level? What happens to the temperature of both the small and larger line when this heating and cool off happens? It's not rocket science you just need to know what is happening with the system and what should be happening at any given time in the "on cycle".


How do I change a light bulb I can't grip? We have two bulbs in our house that need replacing. They appear to be PAR38 bulbs.

The bulbs are both in recessed sockets. There is not enough space between the bulb and the well to get fingers around. The bulbs are in too firmly to budge with what little torque we can exert from the face. Obviously, we don't want to try anything that would break them.

A Google search for "bulb changer" yields some promising results, but I figured I'd ask some humans to be sure.

Take a piece of duct tape and wrap it in the shape of an "O", with the sticky side of the tape on the outside.  Stick the loop of tape to the face of the light bulb such that it is secure. Put your hand (four fingers) inside the loop and twist counterclockwise to loosen the bulb.

Credit: https://youtu.be/NNGyhRu7c0I?t=2m


Can smoke from small fire cause wiring problems? I had a pretty confined fire in my
Small enclosed laundry room.  there was a lot of smoke, however. In the low ceiling is a light and i think it now sometimes flickers.  Electrician just looked at the outside of the fixture and said he can tell it's fine because it works.  Im still worried that something is wrong.  Advice? Pretty sure no flzme hit it but it got to 140 degrees and very black smoky.

At only 140 F there should be no problem, 140C on the other hand would have me checking the fixture and wiring insulation to see if anything melted. Most modern homes are wired with NMB wire that is rated for 194F in use (90 C). With the extra heat if an Edison (screw in type lamp) the center contact may have bent away from the lamp causing the flickering. With the power off remove the lamp and using a small screwdriver or other tool reach in and lightly lift the center metal tab, it won't take much and lifting two much can cause the tab to break (1/16 of an inch should be plenty) replace the lamp and see if that fixed the problem. Just a note that if this is a can light recessed in the ceiling they have thermal safety's that do go bad especially if a larger wattage lamp is used (larger than the fixture was designed and listed for)


How to to bury 40 foot flag pole? I got a 40ft flag pole that is schedule 40 pipe welded together every 10ft with couplers.
My questions are:

How deep I should put it?
What diameter base?
Can I use a Sonotube?

The area I live in gets quite a bit of rain and some pretty heavy wind. I can get gusts up to 100mph.

Place it in a trench 40 feet long with 18" of cover. In the future you can pull wires through it. (It' been a long week).


What fasteners to sister LVL to 2x6 joist? We live in an antique cape and have 2x6 joists. My builder is making extra headroom for a staircase in our living room which involves reinforcing a couple joists with 2x6 LVL. Which is the best option to attach the LVL to the joists? I have seen many people recommend through bolts but would that weaken the structure if it is only 2x6 joists? If nails are better, is there a general rule of thumb for how many and placement per 16"? I'd like to know the best way to attach and specifically how.

Use the Simpson SDW22300 screw installed 6" on center alternating 1.5" from either edge, and starting 3.5" from the end.

This detail is for a built-up column, but it's the same idea.

SDW screw pattern

Doing it this way is overkill. It's probably possible to do something similar with 10d nails, but that's more than I know how to do.


my washing machine was automatically stop and this message was shown Samsung washing machine was automatically stopped and not working any botton exept power botton what should i do give any suggestions

It means the door is not safely closed and latched.

Insure that the door is fully closed. Check for fabric and other obstructions. When the door is closed, the latch on the door pushes into the door interlock and slides a bar over. It should latch firmly and activate an electric switch inside the lock.

Insure that the machine is properly leveled and does not rock on two diagonally opposed feet. This can twist the frame and prevent the door from seating properly.

Check the child safety interlock if your machine has this feature. See the instruction guide for your model.


Will 1/4" drywall with 2x4 studs hold a TV wall mount securely? I want to install a flat screen TV wall mount (full motion kind) into 1/4' drywall with 2x4 studs. There will be 4 attachment points, to studs 24" apart. Total weight of the wall mount and the TV will be 75 lbs. Is this a good idea?

TV wall mounts should always be mounted directly onto studs if the total weight is that much. If all mounting screws are going into studs, the drywall thickness is irrelevant. Drywall anchors are a great invention, but not suited for the kinds of load and forces a swivel wall mount exerts.

If you can't mount the wall mount onto studs for some reason (like, say, because the studs are spaced 24" and the mounting screws on the wall mount are <24" apart), mount a length of 2x4 lumber onto the wall and secure it onto the studs. Then mount your tv wall mount onto the 2x4. I suggest 2 strips - one for the upper and lower rows of mounting screws.

And of course read the instructions that come with the wall mount to see if they have specific recommendations for dealing with your situation.


Auto-cleaning room (CIP for the ground?) In breweries, we used CIP (clean in place) to cleanin and sanitize vessel.

Here, I have a room (a production room for beverages) with slope on the ground and a gutter all room long because I have to clean it lot of times. Did you think it would be possible to make a water circuit with tiny hole on them in order to make the water flow on the whole room ground?

Did you already saw this? Do you think it could be made of too tricky?

Thank you

Cleaning with water comes down to two things - pressure and volume.  Those are related, so to increase one, you have to decrease the other without something like a pressure pump to artificially increase the pressure of the system.

So, will it work?  Absolutely, but the water volume and spray pressure you get will be limited.  What I would do is buy some PVC pipe, and start drilling.  You can get 20' of pipe very cheaply, and it is easy to cut and drill.  Pick a small hole size, and space your holes every 2 feet.  Test it and see what happens.  If you have plenty of pressure, but want more water, drill more holes or re-drill the holes to the next largest size.

If you want to evenly coat the floor and don't really need pressure, then some sprinkler nozzles could be a very effective solution.  Once you have a hole or nozzle pattern that seems to work, you can replace the PVC with metal pipe if it needs to be more durable, but honestly, SCH40 PVC pipe is pretty strong.

What you want is not a "home improvement" idea.  It's more like adapting a commercial solution to the home, so you're going to have to build your own.  The trick is using materials that are cheap and easy to work with for prototyping along the way.


How do I get the glass off this ceiling fixture I have this light fixture in my bathroom, and need to replace the bulb. But I can’t get the glass dome off.

There are no threads between the glass and the plastic mount/base. And no externally visible clips or screws. I can pull the whole dome down, off the plastic base, by about an inch or so. Feels like it is mounted with a spring mechanism inside, because it resists and when I let go, snaps back up.

Tried with a little extra force but it won’t budge further than an inch.  And the base has an inner rim which means I can’t get a good peek into the inner works.

Tried jiggling, rotating and even pushing up. No luck so far.

Any idea how this is supposed to work?

Three flat spring arms extend down from the base. They have bends so that they can hook the glass once it is fully in place. Pull the glass down a bit from one side only. Slide a butter knife around until you find one of the spring arms. Then either tug down or use the butter knife to push the spring inward while you tug.
When you re-install the glass, hook 2 of the springs into the glass and use your fingers to push the third arm in as you raise the glass dome.


Replacing Light Switch (NZ) Need help replacing the old double switch (top two photos) for the new smart switch for my Grandma so she can have the lights come on at dusk till Dawn for security.

I am (mostly...) a fan of use the right tool for the job.
Can a WiFi controlled smart switch be programmed to track sunrise/sunset? Sure.
But how about a simple photocell fixture? That is a far simpler technology that has been around "forever". No computer, smartphone, etc. needed. No worry about forgetting how to program it. Automatically on/off every day with sunset/sunrise.
Alternatively, you can get a motion sensor light. Automatically turns on when it detects someone within range and stays on until there is no movement for a while.


Self-locking caster wheels? I'm planning to build a step stool on casters than can be easily moved around the room. In the past I've seen store-bought step stools where the wheels automatically lock when weight is applied. I don't know if there's a specific name for this type of wheel, but I haven't been able to find them anywhere online.
(I need to build the step stool rather than buy one already made, because it needs to have handrails for the user to hold onto.)

It appears that the product description you seek is called a compression brake caster. The specifications I've found using those terms in a search indicate the mechanism within causes the brake to activate when weight is applied. I recall a library step stool from my early days in which the entire caster was enclosed in a tubular leg. The mount for the caster was on a spring, which was compressed when weight was applied, causing the load to be held on the cylindrical leg. This does not appear to be the method for compression brake casters.
I would offer links, but there are far too many and would represent product recommendation, considering how many different choices are available.


How do I attach a receptacle box to brick instead of a stud? I need to install some new outlet boxes in an old lathe and plaster wall.  I have the baseboards pulled out so I can see where the studs are, which is just great.  However, behind the lathe is a brick wall (exterior of the building) and I was wondering if it would be OK to just attach the boxes directly to the brick (through a box-sized hole) instead of having to dig out a bigger hole in the plaster to get at the studs and attach them there.

There is no obligation to attach an outlet box to a stud.  There are many applications where a box is "free floating" in a plaster wall using boxes that have various types of flanges that lock the box in.  Boxes are sometimes embedded in wooden boards, such as baseboards.

The important thing is to ensure that the box is firmly secured.  This could be done by screwing the box into the brick (using masonry anchors) through an existing opening in the box.  It may be more practical to obtain "old-work" type boxes that have their own retaining mechanisms. the box is slipped in, then the retaining mechanism is tightened to grip the back of the plaster and lathe.


Reading codes on smart meter I have flickering lights intermittently for a week or so. A flickering episode can last an hour. My DVM measures a fluctuating 92, to 100, 112. When flickering stops it reads 119 +-1 volt. I've called Southern California Edison but have no idea how long it will take for them to come and, of course, my intermittent symptom may be not showing itself when they are on site. I looked at my semi-smart meter and see a sequence I have video'd in case it provides a hint.
I see, cycling -

Sync nEt

888 888888

Pld 151

001  74218

082 001.83

(not 100% sure I see the "." in the last reading)

EDIT

My UPS starts beeping, unsurprisingly.

Photo of meter

Does any of this point to something helpful in diagnosing?

Those codes do not mean anything meaningful to the problem.
SCE was out this morning - a very helpful and diligent guy. He said the meter information that was relayed to their central station showed no problems. Maybe being more helpful than SCE policy, he looked at the breakers and the bus bars on the "house side". He also went in the house and put a load test on a sub panel and then looked at at a place a very old panel had been that is now just a giant spaghetti junction box. He convinced me that I have some internal problem. In a new experiment I see that pushing down a 2-slice toaster drops the voltage in a nearby outlet from 118 to 116 and activating the other 2-slices drops it to 114. This is all while I am the the "good state" with no visible flickering.
Got to the bottom of it
t turned out to be a soft sort - corroded wires under the dirt in the front yard that went to some long defunct thing. It was on the breaker for a room we hardly ever use and next to it was the breaker that had things behaving intermittently. Eventually became a hard short and got found by the electrician. He thinks the strange behavior at a certain time of day was from the water from the sprinklers filtered down to the wire underground.


Redirecting cold air from a floor-vent to ceiling The bedroom on the third floor of my house has floor one floor vent for supply and one for return. In the summer, the central AC works extra hard but yet the bedroom is only about 75% cool compared to the rest of the house.
I reckon the cold air coming out of the single supply vent flows along the floor without rising to the bed level and pours out of the bedroom down the stairwell into the house below. I say this because there is quite the pressure gradient between the second floor and the top of the stairwell on the third floor since its really hot in that stair well. All the hot air from the house is collecting there.

I am going to block the bottom of the bedroom door with towels or put weather strips. But I wanted to know if I can run a makeshift duct from the floor vent to the ceiling of the bedroom so that the cold air at least cools the room as it rushes toward the stairwell instead of flowing along the floor.
It wont be pretty and it will be visible, but that is something I can live with.

What materials would I need to properly cover the vent and run a duct to the ceiling?
I would appreciate any insight to this matter.
Thank You

EDIT

I have added a schematic diagram of the room with dimensions including the dimension of the vent which is 12 inches x 6 inches. The height of the room is 12 feet.
I guess I have more of a fluid dynamics question now.
Whether I use register boosters or duct guides, is it realistic to expect the dense cold air to fan out as it heads to the floor? Or would it just stream back to the floor in a columnar fashion?

The easiest way to deal with this common issue is a vent booster fan, such as this example. It would not take up wall space nor be unsightly.

Without more information, such as the size of the vent opening or mains voltage, it would be impossible to be more specific. A photo of the room and a closeup of the vent might be helpful. Browse HVAC suppliers, online stores, etc.


would a surge protector with an appliance that might be shorting, protect my house circuit? I have a Playstion with a composite RCA connection that gets hot from the ps3 exhaust.  I think it killed the power to my apartment when a subwoofer flashed and went boom.  I turned the ps3 back on within a minute, as the loss of power didn't last, and it blacked out a portion of my building for an hour, i think.  Would a surge protector help the apartment if that was accurate??

The game stores are closed so i cant get a new cord :(

I believe you have something else, and that something else is SERIOUS, that has nothing to do with your surge protector.

Yes, a surge protector can caused a short circuit if the active portion of it, in almost all cases a device called a MOV or Metal Oxide Varistor.  A MOV is designed to do nothing when the voltage across it is "normal" but to conduct electricity when the voltage is too high.  The problem is that the MOV literally sacrifices itself to protect whatever is plugged into it.  Usually there is a circuit breaker on the surge protector that is designed to trip when the MOV activates.

Over time the MOV wears out from this "abuse" and it may develop a permanent short which renders the entire surge protector useless and it should be replaced.  Note that is may also fail "silently" where the MOV no longer conducts at high voltage and the entire surge suppressor doesn't do what you expect it to do.

This does NOT appear to be what's going on here, however. Even if it were totally shorted out, which is not what you're describing, it would only trip the circuit breaker that it's plugged into, not the entire apartment.  (That is assuming your apt. has more than one circuit in it.)

It sounds like you have a more general wiring problem and you should get your landlord to hire an electrician to investigate it before more of your electronic devices get damaged or someone get injured.


How to avoid air bubble under the floor ceramic-tile? My house is an Indian style apartment.

I have laid floor ceramic-tile with no other covering over it. There are of air bubbles developing under the ceramic-tiles which eventually leads to breaking of the tiles due to pressure below the tile.

What's the way to prevent this?

By "no other covering over it" - I assume you mean you didn't properly prep the sub floor, and so you put down ceramic tile over an uneven surface.

Which means you didn't "develop" an air bubble (an air bubble won't form under inflexible ceramic tile like it will under vinyl), but rather, you put the tile down over voids, so there was nothing to support the tile.

The ONLY fix for this is to remove the tile completely, level the floor (I suggest floor leveling compound), then put down a layer of Ditra (orange grid flexible underlayment that protects the tile itself), then the appropriate depth of mastic and re-tile.

There is no other way to fix an improperly prepared subsurface when dealing with rigid tiles like ceramic.