What is a line to neutral load? I'm looking at the electrical code and it states "Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads." Could someone explain what line-to-neutral loads are?

A multi wire branch has a neutral and 2 lives in opposite phase.

What the code says is that you may only allow loads connected to only 1 live and neutral (V1 and V2 in the picture) and you are not allowed to have a live to live load (V1+V2) (which would have double voltage).


Can I raise the floor of a culvert with concrete? I have a concrete culvert under my driveway. The first pipe section on the input side has dropped about 2 inches causing water to back up into my yard.

Digging up the pipe section  would be expensive.

Considering pouring a soupy concrete mix into the pipe to effectively level the dropped pipe section. The pipe diameter is too small to access the total area needing leveling which is why using a watery concrete mix could fill the place I can't reach. Will this work? Other ideas?

As I mentioned in a comment, a lowered pipe shouldn't cause a backup. The high point in the system is where the water level stabilizes.

That said, I see no reason why a concrete enhancement would cause problems on the intake side, assuming adequate flow volume remains. You wouldn't want to reduce volume on the outflow side as this could result in foreign object obstructions.

Also, you'd use a standard concrete mix, and not an overwatered mix, which would be weaker and more prone to disintegration. It's not difficult to level concrete with a little agitation.


What are my kitchen sink's drain pipes made of, and how should I seal connections? I'm going to attempt to replace my sink drain pipes (highlighted in red below) in addition to replacing my sink basket.

I have a question about the pipes: can someone confirm the material of these pipes? I would like to buy replacement pipes of the same material.

Also, for the connections between each elbow, is teflon tape needed? Or can I just tighten the connections with the slip nut?

Thank you!

Those are brass drain pipes, which were once quite popular but now are more expensive than plastic. Most brass drain & faucet assembies are chrome plated.

There should be rubber or plastic seals, not Teflon tape to create the seal (although I have seen Teflon cord wrapped around the pipe to make a seal), but this is not as good as it flows out of the nut.


How do I install a Rubbermaid closet organizer in a paneled mobile home? I have a Rubbermaid Configurations closet organizer and have no confidence in the enclosed hardware. I have a mobile home and the walls are all paneled - the studs very difficult to find as well as being smaller than 2x4.

What type anchor screws should I use? Should I use furring strips?

The best solution would be to attach a finished piece of plywood over whole wall.
Hollow Wall anchors work best on thin paneling. I like toggle bolts except for the fact they make a big hole in wall.


How do I match the color of old wood with stain after a repair? I had a need to do a repair on some wooden trim in a kitchen. The new wood is the same type and grain as the piece that was removed, but the color is considerably different. The old wood was cleaned well, but it has a dark color such as would be expected considering the age and environment. How could I color or stain the new wooden piece to closely approximate the color of the older, weathered wood?

Most of the wood finish displays at your local home center will have samples. They will show what the finish looks like on various wood types. The issue with matching older trim is the colors change as the product ages and there are variations from batch to batch. I have had the best luck by bringing an original sample and matching it to the display for similar wood. If it is close but a little light you can try multiple coats to see if it will darken. You can also add a few drops of a darker or colored stain  in small batches to alter it slightly. Try various mixes of finish on multiple scraps of the replacement wood keeping track of the formula of each sample.


Adjusting Blower Speed for Central AC I am trying to lower the fan speed on blower fan. It is currently set to factory default setting. My AC is 3 ton unit. Model no is 4A7A3036H1000NA. The fan settings on IFC are like TAP 1, 2, 3.... and currently it is set to Tap 7 which is the last setting. But when I look at the chart for CFM vs External Static Pressure Tap 7 comes around 2000 for all the numbers. My question is should I lower the fan speed to get closer to the required CFM instead of letting it be on factory default setting? I know that first static pressure need to be measured but again the factory default setting seems to be high for 3 ton unit.

When I was still doing residential work the normal temperature drop across the Coil was between 15F.  and 20F.  A temp difference above 20F meant that more air flow was needed and a temp below 15F meant that there was too much air.  Unless things have changed recently or you have a special A/C system you can use these temp drops as a guide line. Just buy a temperature thermometer or a probe type and measure the air temp difference across the coil.  my 2 cents


Backplate for satin nickel deadlock There is an old door with some marks from a jimmyproof lock. It was replaced with a single cylinder deadlock, satin nickel finish.
To cover the marks, it was decided to install a back plate covering the affected area (a rectangle of 4 x 6). Of course this back plate will have a hole so the deadlock goes through it.

What materials do you suggest to cut to this size that will blend well with the satin nickel?
Initially I thought about opaque acrylic but it might not look good (plastic looking versus metal deadlock). Maybe a metal looking acrylic that I found, or an aluminum sheet? How difficult would it be to cut the hole on them?

PS: it is inside a safe building, it does not requires strong protection. It is more for the looks (cover imperfections from the jimmyproof lock that was removed) than for security. Painting is not an option because the door got damaged in this area and it was decided to not replace the door.

Appreciate any ideas for materials that would go well with the new satin nickel deadlock!

If you want it to match the color of the satin nickel hardware as good as possible, I would recommend cutting it from... Satin Nickel.  The same companies that make door locks also make "kick plates" for the bottom of the door, and smaller "push plates" that are made to push open a door that doesn't have a knob (normally seen in commercial doors).  Here is an example of a push plate.  You could use one of these like a piece of sheet metal to cut whatever size and shape you wanted.

They also sell door reenforcement plates that are used to cover up damage:

Example here

Most home stores will have these in stock - I randomly picked Home Depot to link to, but these are common items if you know what to look for.


200 Amp Service upgrade Failed Inspection NJ Im a Licensed Contractor and very comfortable with working on electric. That being said, my new home had underground 200 amp service and we could not disconnect the power so I used a licensed electrician to replace the exterior meter box that had rotted and install a new D Square 200 amp QO box (so I didn't have to work with the live 200 amp wires..). I thought he did a fantastic job looked clean and functioned great. Inspector came and Failed it, part one was for not replacing a piece of sheetrock next to the box (I left it off so he could see everything... Easy fix thought). The second Part stated "Multi Wire Circuits 2P CB on a approved tie Bar". I have no idea WTF this means lol. I wire outlets/lights and occasionally add a breaker for a new line. When I asked the inspector what this means he stated that the electrician would understand and it would take him 10 minutes to fix... My electrician bailed on me & won't return phone calls. I'd rather not call in a second electrician for something I'm sure I can fix myself. If anyone has any insight, please let me know.

Side note: All my wires in my house are BX with the exception of one is Romex added years later. My box does not have a separate ground bar in the box instead he tied the neutrals into the left side of the box and tied the grounds into the right. I was thinking the inspector wants a separate ground bar in the box the BX neutrals are fine on the left and the 1 Romex wire he wants that neutral on the Right. I

Breaking down what the Inspector said "Multi Wire Circuits 2P CB on a approved tie Bar" I presume means Multiple wire circuits 2 Pole on Circuit Breaker on approved tie bar? I just don't know what this means needs to happen to fix the problem lol

Thanks in in advance hope I explained this well enough.

Daniel

Heres my guess.  It's an easy one indeed.   By "multi wire circuit" he actually means multi-wire branch circuit.  This is a special method of running 120V circuits where you get 2 circuits' worth of power on one /3 cable, by sharing neutral.   You can google it, but the highlights inspectionwise are

the circuit must have neutral pigtailed, you can't use a receptacle etc. as a splice point for the onward neutral or you'd knock out both sides of the circuit if you removed the device.
Both legs must, must, must be on opposite poles.
both legs of the MWBC must have common maintenance shut-off, so the usual technique of "turn breakers off until the radio stops playing" turns off the whole circuit.

That last one is what you are being written up for.

In a residential breaker panel (as opposed to fuses or industrial), you do that one of two ways.   You use a 2-pole breaker  (like you would for a water heater, but the correct amperage)... Or you use listed "handle ties" that are correct for that breaker type. These are weird and specialty, and big-box rarely carries them.  Sourcing them is such a hassle that I just advise people to use 2-pole breakers, which are sold everywhere for $10. This also leads them into correct decision making when selecting AFCI or GFCI breakers later.

Where

So you need to search your panel for circuits which have 3 conductors, not including ground: two hots and a neutral.  In a panel like yours with all cables, the dead giveaway is a red wire for the second hot.

Follow each of them, and make sure every one lands on a 2-pole breaker.   If you find a pair going to two singles, measure the voltage at the breaker between the two "hots".  It had better be 240V.  If it's not, congrats, you just dodged a house fire.   Move those two "hots" to a 2-pole breaker of same amp rating.

The reason I advise 2-pole breakers in your case (besides the annoyance of finding listed handle ties) is that way, you don't even need to chase it to figure out if it's an MWBC.  2-pole breaker, done...


Is my pegboard stand design reasonable? I have an idea of building a pegboard stand, for the purpose of holding kids art supplies.  For example, buckets with pencils, markers, pens, paintbrushes.  Possibly also some trays for papers.

Below is a picture of the idea i have.  In red, I thought maybe there could be additional supports for stability.  I want it to be movable, instead of mounting to a wall.  I want to be able to slide a desk under the board as well.

I have ZERO experience with woodworking, or building anything really.  Looking for pointers on how to get started and/or any reliable Internet resources for beginners I can research from.  I thought building a wood frame would be most economical and practical in getting materials.

The pegboard I have in mind is 48" x 24", and probably 36" inch from floor.

You'll need a good rigid frame. I don't think 1x4 will do it, pegboard is very floppy.  I'd probably suggest 2x4, and use two sheets of pegboard to conceal them some, sandwiching the 2x4s between two sheets.  The other advantage is that you won't see the hooks from the opposing side.  One complication is that it's likely to be top heavy so you need to make the base "outriggers" quite long so it doesn't fall over.

It will be pretty simple other than the angled cuts, which you can figure out empirically by laying out the inverted T portion of the base, and then cutting the braces to fit.  There are many good introductory books and websites, take a look at Taunton Press, I'm sure they have plenty. When you buy your lumber get "KD" 2x4s rather than run of the mill stuff which will have high water content and tend to warp as it dries. The stuff you want will feel relatively light for it's size.  Sight down each edge and look for twists or warps.

OK, that get you off to a good start?


Wattage of adapter for LED strip I have LED strip lighting under my cabinets in the kitchen. Recently, they started flickering with noise. Worked fine for a couple of years. I believe it was the adapter that was faulty. Unfortunately, I lost the adapter somewhere so I'm unable to order another without knowing how much wattage should it have.

My LED strip configuration is: 3528 (18/foot). I have 11 feet of strip. I know the wattage would depend upon the lumen.

Here are my queries:

Am I right that the adapter caused the flickering and the noise or it could be the LEDs? (My previous experience with LEDs is that if they failed, all of them fail)
Is there an average rating that I can use to determine the total wattage for the adapter? I have come across 0.08-1W on the internet

Flickering is caused by the voltage conversion “driver”
The driver sets the correct voltage and current level. The problem with today’s led’s Is they can be just about any voltage. For instance I have some 4’ strips that fire at ~40v but need ~60v for full brightness, so you really need to find the specs to get the proper driver for your lights. But yes flickering is a sign of the driver overheating and or starting to fail. I did look closer at your strips and they show 12v so then you would need a supply large enough in watts or amps at 12vdc to light them up.


Sizing Electric Baseboard Heat (Supplemental) I have a 635 square foot finished basement insulated with closed-cell spray foam on the concrete.  The climate here is zone 5A (Central NJ).

I want to add supplemental heating via electric baseboards and I'm not sure how many feet of them I need.

I read that a typical rule of thumb is to take the square feet * 10 to get the number of watts you need and then divide by 250 watts/foot to get the number of feet.  (So talking 25.4 feet here).

But I believe this calculation is if you are only heating with electric baseboards.  I'm looking to use these to supplement my forced air system.
I have extended the forced air heating/cooling system into the basement by adding two registers and two returns, but I have only one zone for the whole house.

In the winter, when the forced air heat is running, the basement is 69/70 degrees, which is perfectly fine.  When it shuts off for an hour or so, the basement drops to like 65/66.  During the summer, the basement is 65/66 consistently (this is after I insulated the a/c ducts in the ceiling).

So I only really need to bump things up a few extra degrees to keep my kids from complaining.

(I would consider zoning the house into 2-3 zones.  I think that would fix the basement issue in the winter.  But during the summer, since I couldn't run heat and a/c at the same time, I'd be in the same position where its 3-4 degrees too cold.)

According to Cadet support, they recommend 8-10 watts per square foot when electric baseboards are used as a primary heat source.  And 6-7 watts per square foot when they are used for supplemental heat.


Identifying non-standard fastener/nut I am trying to identify a nut/fastener that is a part of our children's bed:

(Note I am not a native English speaker, so hope I got all the technical terms correctly, please tell me if it doesn't make sense)
The fastener looks a bit like some sort of cylindrical nut, but there is no thread inside the hole (it holds a smooth metal rod) and also a bolt attaches to the top (which holds the fastener in place). I tried looking through the "nuts" sections of a few online retailers, but couldn't find anything like it.
Does anyone have any ideas for a Google term that would let me find if somebody sells something like this? Or would I need to make this myself by drilling a hole into a cylindrical nut?

You're looking for a barrel clamp and screw. There are a lot of them out there and in different sizes.... The one pictured below is from Belmetric.com which I'm not affiliated with in any way, shape or form.


Sewage water draining behind home below walk out deck? At my girlfriend's mom's house she purchased last year. It's an older home built in the 50's. They are having drainage problems and flooding in the walk out area below grade (see pictures). We popped up some boards and the upstairs sewage is draining in the open under these boards. Is this normal? I thought sewage should be to a public sewer or septic hidden from open air.

Water is coming from under steps too, so i think it's bad drainage and we started pulling those boards and see crap water..

Pictures:

You have a clogged main drain and the sewage is coming up from the drain vent in the yard. Get the drain cabled.


How can I unscrew the faucet nuts in the tight space behind my sink basin? My bathroom faucet is dripping, and I would like to change the washers in it. The problem I am running into is the placement of the nuts holding the faucet valves in place:

This is the underside of the sink, the hot and cold valves are on either side. The nuts holding the valves in are quite large, and they are inside a small recessed space that I can barely fit a small pliers into, much less one large enough to actually get around those nuts. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I might get those nuts off?

Update: Always make sure you are asking the right question first, see answer below. Though if anyone is in a similar situation to mine and actually needs to remove a valve, some of the other suggestions here look helpful.

This is exactly the purpose of a basin wrench

Here's a picture from familyhandyman.com that shows a basin wrench in action:

Note that as mentioned in another answer, you usually don't need to remove the faucet to replace the washers;  but if you do need to remove the faucet for whatever reason - this is the tool.


Enlarge cabinet opening for 30" range I want to change my kitchen range from a drop-in to a stand alone type. I currently have a Kenmore drop-in. The width from counter top to counter top is about 29.5 inches. How extensive is the process to widen the cut-out to 30"? Would I need to install new cabinets or is there usually leeway to cut them back a little? Sorry if this is a silly question. I have never seen cabinets before they were installed.

The only way to know for sure if there is an option to open up the gap width across the counter top is to slide out the drop in unit and make measurements. It is typical that a cabinet installation will have opening compatible with a standard sized standalone range between the sides of the cabinets. However there is no guarantee that the installers did it that way.

The first thing you can look for is to see if the counter top extends over the side walls in the opening by some amount. If it does than you may have the opportunity to trim the opening to a larger size. The following drawing shows what would be the ideal situation for you where the counter top overhangs the cabinet side walls by 0.25".

Success at trimming such counter top will depend highly upon skills, available tools and the makeup of the counter top materials. Be aware that a drop in unit hides the current edge of the cutout. When you slide in a new standalone unit the cut edges of the opening will be visible unless you apply some type of trim or re-surface the counter top.

Another thing to be aware of is that on some cabinets the side walls of the cabinet may not be even with the front frame of the cabinet. Sometimes the front frame overhangs the side walls much as 1/4". In such case if the sidewalls are at 30" it would also be necessary to trim back the front rails. This can be done but if done in a sloppy manner can look pretty ugly along the front edges of the range.


Can't isolate my water heater with shutoff valve My water heater has a shutoff valve at the cold inlet.  The shutoff valve was closed and cold water line was disconnected from the water heater.  I wanted to restore water to the house while I work on the water heater.  When I opened the main water shutoff valve, cold water entered the water heater through the hot outlet and overflowed out of the cold inlet.
Is this normal?  How did cold water enter the hot line?  Also what is the device with the knob at the top in the pic below?

Thanks for help.

Single handle faucets can allow water to flow from the hot side to the cold if turned on at all. Not sure if some of them will allow the flow when turned full off. Fix would be to turn off the hot water shutoff valve under your sinks. If the flow is coming thru a bathtub or shower valve, that would be more difficult.  Might be easiest to simply remove the flex pipe on the hot side where it connects to the galvanized pipe and cap it off for the duration of your project. You'll probably have to replace the flex pipe as the gaskets tend not to be very reusable.


using two light switches to control only a GFI (No light involved) I have a 3 way light switch on the deck of my swimming pool and another under my deck. I want to control only the GFI (No lights, fans or or anything else involved).
In power has 3 wires: a Black, white and Ground. And I have 4 wires to control the switches and the GFI. A Black, white, Red and a Ground. Only one of the 3 way light switches is in the same box as the GFI under my deck. The other light switch on the Deck. How do I connect all the wiring to control the GFI?
Thank You
Bob

Then from your in power connect the bare ground to the ground terminal of the GFI. Connect the white wire to the GFI. The black wire connects (wire nut) to the other black wire going to the 3 way switch on the deck. The red and white wires from the deck go to the traveler terminals of the 3 way switches (same on both switches). At the GFI add a black wire from it to the common terminal of the 3 way. Add a bare wire between the GFI ground and the 3 way ground terminal. On the deck 3 way connect the black wire to the common terminal. Connect the bare ground to the ground terminal of the switch.


Different wirings on 2 thermostats controlled by a 2 minizone system I was replacing my 2 thermostats controlled by a 2 mini zone system (Trol-A-Temp).  One of the thermostat has 6 wires/terminals (Y,W,R,G,O,B). The other one has 3 wires/terminals (Y,W,R).  I was planning to use an ecobee thermostats but don’t know where to connect the terminals O and B of the first thermostat.  Also if I will only connect the 3 wires of the second thermostat, will it be able to access the fan when there’s no wiring provided for it?  Thanks.

You'll need a different zone board for this
The bad news in your situation is that your existing zone board (assuming its the Honeywell/TrolATemp MM-2) is incompatible with the Ecobee, at least without parts to adapt it, because it relies on both O and B being available as separate signals from the thermostat, and one of them being energized at all times.  Smart thermostats generally only provide a single signal that's configurable to be O or B, so you'd need a 24VAC SPDT relay to adapt the Ecobee's O/B signal to work with your board.
Worse yet, your goal of fan control in both zones gets thwarted completely by the...half-hearted fan call implementation in the MM-2: it calls for furnace fan when it gets a fan call from the primary thermostat, but doesn't do anything for the dampers, causing fan-only operation to simply send all that circulating air down the bypass and back to the furnace in an endless, useless loop.
As a result, I strongly recommend replacing your zone board with a new board; modern zone boards will handle fan-only calls correctly and also work with standard thermostat controls without the need for O or B wires.


Is my rental house safe even if the electrical is not grounded at all? Just found out when the electrician came today that the entire house I am renting is not grounded.  I really like this place and real estate here is a nightmare.  But, we have some iridescent lights he said need to be grounded to work properly.  I called the leasing agent right when we moved in because when we initially started plugging cords in a few outlets sparked and one smelled hot. We have three prong outlets, but apparently they are not properly installed.  We also have outdoor fixtures and switches that do not work because they are not protected from the weather. I knew it was an older house, but I was told by the agent before I leased the property that they had just had the entire electrical system checked.  Turns out that there is no way that could be the case.  The electrician wouldn't add much more information when I asked him what we should or shouldn't do currently to stay safe because of liability.
What needs to be done for my family to be safe?  What are my options as a renter in Hawaii?

I agree with Aloysius. Many homes in the U.S. Are 2 wire when the 3 wire outlets were added each circuit should have been protected by a GFCI and the outlets marked no equipment ground. Other that "touch lamps" I don't remember seeing lights that required the ground to work.  The hot smell is not a good thing make sure you are not overloading the circuit. I would guess that the electrician only checked the polarization of the outlets with a outlet tester like this or one with a GFCI test button.  If the circuits are GFCI protected with a GFCI outlet on the first outlet in the circuit or a GFCI breaker the system would meet code. The second tester cost ~10$ and you could verify the polarity and push the test button to see if there is protection.


Bury water pipes, gas line, and electrical pipe I am building a floor to house the water cistern, future electrical power generator, and propane gas tank in the far back corner of my house. The main water line comes from the front of the house and I'll need to tap it for the cistern. The most pressure is about 65 PSI. I am thinking of digging a trench along and close to my wall to all the way back, which is about 90 feet.

I want to maintain 3/4 inch inner diameter for my water lines. I was thinking of using Schedule 40 PVC tubing for the water line and return. I know cooper is better but it would be way too expensive. I need to add another pipe for the electrical for the future generator and power for the water pump. Not sure how thick that pipe would need to be. I guess I have no choice to use cooper for the gas line.

I want to do the trench, water pipes, and leave the electrical pipe in the ground for the electrician. Maybe leave a rope in the electrical pipe to save the electrician some time.

I live in the Caribbean so there is no real winter. Can I dig a trench and put the water pipe in, water line return, electrical pipe, and gas line in the same trench?
How deep and and wide should I dig my trench?
What other types of tubing would you recommend that isn't too costly but durable?

Materials selection

There are three materials that you can practically use for a buried potable water line: CPVC, PEX/PEX-AL-PEX, and copper.  Of these, PEX is the easiest to install, while copper is the most proven in-service, with CPVC being a middle ground.  While there is straight PVC that is used for utility water service lines, most PVC pipe readily available is DWV (drain-waste-vent) pipe that is not approved for potable water service.  (If you doubt me, Tables 605.3 & 605.4 in the 2015 IPC refer to different standards than tables 702.1 and 702.2 regarding PVC pipe.)

As to the propane gas line, you must contact your gas supplier for acceptable materials.  If you can't get a response from them, Schedule 40 or heavier black iron with joint compounds labeled as suitable for all gasses always works.  (The Code approval for copper in gas applications depends on the amount of sulfur in the gas, and using plastic for gas lines requires lots of special work that renders it infeasible for anyone but a gas utility.  See NFPA 58 and NFPA 54, as well as the 2015 IFGC, for details.)

Last but not least, you'll want to lay conduit for the electric lines instead of a direct bury cable.  In a co-trench situation like this, I would use a nonmetallic, physical damage rated conduit such as Schedule 80 PVC or RTRC-XW.  Direct burial of metallic conduits is also possible, but offers little advantage over PVC given the issues with corrosion a buried metal conduit faces, unless you use red brass that is, which is extremely costly compared to PVC.

If you must use a direct bury cable, PVC jacketed MC-HL is recommended as it provides enhanced damage protection and leakage current control compared to a standard MC cable's interlocked armor, although it can be harder to find.  Do not bury an unjacketed metal-armored cable, or NM for that matter!

Trenching

The minimum trench depth for a gas line is 12", and the same is true for water lines where freezing is not a concern.  The electrical, though, must be deeper (either 18" or 24" deep), so that sets your trench depth.  Width is not critical save for being able to properly install the piping with due concern for expansion (especially for CPVC pipe and rigid nonmetallic conduits).

As always, make sure to excavate safely -- call your local One-Call or equivalent utility marking facility before you dig!


How do I fix a sticky spot on furniture made by a rubber ball? A large rubber ball for exercise rested against our cherry cabinet for some months.  When removed we found an eight inch circle where the furniture finish had become sticky.  We hoped it would return to normal, but after months it remains just a sticky or tacky, leaving fingerprints when touched.  What will bring back its smooth, solid finish?  We don't want to refinish the whole side of this large cabinet.

It depends on whether the stickiness was caused by the ball leaving a residue on the finish or the ingredients in the ball (probably solvents) ate into the finish.

If the former, you may be able to remove a residue using a wood cleaner like Murphy's Oil Soap (just one example). These cleaners are generally safe for wood finishes. If this fails, you could try stronger cleaners like Goo Gone. This type of cleaner is more likely to adversely affect finish, so try it in an inconspicuous place. However, if the milder soap doesn't clean it, you probably are risking the finish anyway.

If that doesn't work, you can try solvents, beginning with mineral spirits, but you are highly at risk of damaging finish. After wiping with the solvent, carefully wash off, again using wood soap or a mild detergent.

You can also try alcohol and lacquer thinner, either of which is highly likely to eat away the finish, but by then you are past preservation.


How to find type of wall separating flats in same building I'm trying to work out the construction of a wall that partitions two flats (maisonette).
Most things on the internet deal with internal walls (with wood studs, found with a stud finder), or solid external walls. However this is kind of both, as it's internal, but partitions two separate residences.

The odd thing is that the stud finder (a powerful magnet in this case) finds nothing. But does find studs easily on the adjacent internal wall.
Using the tapping technique I can find parts that sound solid, but not in vertical runs. As I tap across, I can find a solid sound, but then as I tap upwards the sound changes to hollow, and then solid again, alternating.
I've drilled into the "solid" part, and couldn't discern wood, and appears to be just powder coming out. Unfortunately there's no wall sockets to inspect either.
Construction was in 2013 in the UK (if that helps).

Anyone got an idea what's behind this wall? I'm trying to put up a heavy load bracket. Any help greatly appreciated!

Edit: I'm starting to think it may be a "Dot and Dab" fixing of plasterboard over a solid wall. This would explain what I'm seeing/hearing.

Concrete block wall and dot and dab plasterboard would be pretty standard between two dwellings because of fire regs.

Grab some post-it notes and stick them on the wall where it sounds solid. See if you discern a pattern, i.e rows of 'dots' (or 'dabs', I never did figure out the difference!). It will (or should be) solid along the bottom and the top (a continuous dot or dab).

Make sure your bracket sits on solid areas or you'll crush the plasterboard into the 10mm (or so) gap behind the boards.

If you have to go where it's hollow, drill an oversized hole and pump/push plasterboard adhesive into each hole forcing it in to spread it out behind the board as much as you can. We push the plastic disk out of an empty caulk tube with a long dowel etc., fill it up with board adhesive and pop a fresh nozzle on and you're good to go. Pump away!

Wait until it's dried for a day or three and then drill your holes into the concrete block.

Make sure your fastener is wholly holding in the block, i.e. not the plasterboard or its adhesive.


Furnace + boiler in a closet with top open to the attic I have a furnace and boiler (both gas) in one closet whose floor has a vent at the bottom and the top is completely open to the attic. The attic has blown in cellulose insulation and it falls in this closet when there is work done there.
Is this normal or can I partly cover the top with drywall leaving some opening? Any advise on this is highly appreciated.
1600 sq ft house
The boiler and furnace exhaust are channeled into the chimney.

You need to make sure they can get enough makeup air for combustion, so that they don't backdraft, but yes, you can and should cover the top, that is absolutely awful for any sort of energy efficiency.


Can a Dishwasher that automatically opens the door damage my kitchen cabinets? Can a Dishwasher that automatically opens the door when finishing the cycle (to let steam out for better drying performance) cause damage to the kitchen cabinets?
I'm worried since it doesn't open the door entirely - just a small amount to create a hatch, can this cause condensation on the lower part of the worktop and damage the cabinets?

If your countertop, especially the lip that overhangs the dishwasher, is constructed with particle board, you can expect damage. The particle board will suck up any and all moisture coming out of the dishwasher. I have heard that even granite tops can get discolored from the steam you're referring to.

You can coat the bottom of a particle board top with some exterior wood glue or silicone sealer to prevent the moisture from being absorbed. If it's granite, get a stone sealer and just apply to the bottom part of the lip.


How do I clean green and brown substances from the connectors of battery-operated devices? Battery-operated devices have connectors to take in power from batteries in order to work. However, if the batteries are left there and the devices are not used for a few months or more, green and brown substances can be formed on the connectors.

Are there ways to clean up those substances on the connector without buying a new one or damaging it?

First you'll want to have a good pair of gloves, this stuff can be nasty and you don't want it on your skin.  Once the batteries are removed, and disposed of properly. Mix baking soda and water into a paste, and apply it to the affected area using a cotton swab (Q-tip). Leave the paste on the terminals for 5-10 minutes, then wipe it off with a damp cloth. Repeat as necessary. Wipe the terminals with a clean dry cloth, and allow to air dry completely.

Once the terminals are clean, you can apply a contact cleaner like DeoxIT®.

Which will further clean the terminals, as well as protect them and restore their conductivity.

If the leakage is not that bad, you may be able to clean it with just the contact cleaner.  For heavy corrosion damage the baking soda paste should remove the bulk of the mess, and the contact cleaner will repair some of the unseen damage to the contacts.


What are the differences between a thermoformed vinyl coating and melamine? I'm about to purchase a set of kit set kitchen units, and I have a question about the difference between thermoformed vinyl coating on the cupboard doors etc, vs melamine coating.

The difference in price (in New Zealand) is substantial, around 40% cheaper for melamine and in the same colour. It seems like there must be a significant difference in quality to warrant that much of a price difference across the board of all their products... Can anyone explain the difference?

Background on our situation is we want to keep the kitchen cheap yet make it look flash and new, and probably won't own the house for more than five years at most.

Melamine doors are square cut. An have edge strip glued on (you see a line where it's glued)

Vinyl doors are wrapped in vinyl
Allowing them to have patterns on the door. An round edges.

Melamine doors dont quite look as good in my option.
But they are cheaper an still look good. With the right colour an handles they will look good.

You also have tho option of 2-pac painted doors (my option there the best)
Better finish.
They cost more.
But can scratch easier


Voltage/current stabilizing I am running a wire 300+ feet. I'll need to place a transformer every 100 feet that would maintain voltage/current, therefore I wouldn't get any drop so that I can maintain 110vac 20 amp. Which transformer should I use?

Edit: I'm powering a shed.

Adding transformers will not "stabilize" anything, I have no idea where you got that idea, but it's wrong. Sometimes people step up the voltage to a higher level (like 480V) and back down again for a long distance run so that the current is less, because less current results in less voltage drop since voltage drop is a function of I (current) Squared / R (resistance, in this case of the wire itself).

But you can ALSO just decrease the R by using larger gauge wire, which would cost you a LOT less than adding transformers. There are on-line Voltage Drop calculators that will give you the size of wire you need. According to one that I found, to have no more than a 3% VD on a full 20A load at 120V, you would use #4 Cu wire or #2 Al.


Is this material asbestos? It looks like some form of insulation with a cardboard backing. The previous tenant in the apartment said he found a stack of this material in the basement and used it to insulate around a window ac unit. Its a two-story building in brooklyn. I'm living in the lower level which I'm told used to be the servant's quarters, so I believe the building is quite old. It looks like it has a had at least a couple renovations. Photo of the material:

No. That looks like polyisocyanurate:

Asbestos looks like any of these, depending on which form was used in what kind of location:


Recessed lights and ceiling fan Replacing a ceiling fan with a fan with no light.  Want to add 4 recessed light cans.  The new fan only works with remote so no switch needed.  Can I wire the recessed cans to the same fan wire (2 wire romex)?  Can I just connect the black with black and white with white and add a dimmer switch for the recessed cans?

No... & Yes... ?

perhaps you need to think this through a bit because ultimately you know (or will know) the wiring better than us.

In USA... Black "should be" HOT. White "should be" NEUTRAL. There should be a ground, you should use it. With that out of the way (noting that these are not always straight forward facts)...

Where does your supply come in? How do you intend to switch the lights on and off? If the supply goes through a switch, and your fan is currently wired to it, what do you suspect is going to happen when you switch that switch for the lights? (the fan will go off).

If the FAN has a remote, then it doesn't necessarily need a wall switch (but personally, I'd keep one anyways), however the lights will need a switch too... Right? You would need to add a switch for the lights. You can re-purpose the existing switch, but you'd still have to run a always HOT/NEUTRAL/GROUND to the fan (from a supply).

You have not mentioned how you intend to control the lights. If the supply side goes to the fan, then to the switch and back to the fan, then you can add lights off of the fan box provided you do not overload the box, or the circuit.  If the supply goes to the switch first, as is often the case, then you need to run another feed out of the switch box, to the fan, or the lights.


Help wiring a Nest thermostat in an unusual situation The attached picture shows my current wiring. Notice there are two thermostats. The top one (Carrier, with four conductors) controls hot air heating. The bottom one (with two conductors, old mercurty style) controls radiant floor heeting. Although it's hard to reach behind the drywall, I believe the six conductors come from the same wire.

The part that concerns me is that the top termostat actually controls two zones. Does that mean I have a total of 3 zones (counting the radiant floor)?

In any case, I'm willing to combine the two Carrier zones as long as the radiant floor is on a separate zone. Unless it's very cold outside (<20F), the radiant floor is a sufficient source of heat.

Any hints on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: other end of the wires

You're a bit stuck here

The Carrier Infinity system isn't a standard "on-off" control, unlike conventional thermostats.  Instead, it uses a serial connection between the thermostat and the controlled devices (zone controller + furnace in your case), which the Nest hasn't a clue how to speak.

Your best bet for integrating more sophisticated automation into your system would be to use some sort of gadget with a RS-485 interface to speak the Carrier Infinity protocol.


Glass cooktop sealed to quartz countertop I have a glass cooktop that is sealed to the quartz countertop with silicone.  From what I have been able to learn the cooktop should not have been sealed to the countertop.  My problem is that one of the cooktop burners won’t ignite and a repairman says the cooktop has to be removed to do the repair.  I am wondering how I can loosen the silicone adhesive in order to lift out the cooktop from the countertop.  Would applying heat with hair dryer loosen the silicone enough?  Looking for suggestions.

I am not sure if dental floss would work on such a large area but if you can get floss in the crack and pull it back and forth it cuts silicone like a hack saw. I find unwaxed floss cuts faster but waxed will also work. I have used this method to remove plastic placards from machine centers when equipment was changed some as large as 18" square I am sure your stove is much larger but it may be worth a try I took the last one off in maybe 2 minutes.


How do I clean teak oil off of a paint brush? I painted my outdoor wood table with teal oil last summer. I'd like to do it again using the same brush, but now the brush is stiff and gummed up. Last time I used it I washed it off with warm water, but apparently that didn't do the trick.

Can it be saved? If so what should I use to clean it now that it's hardened up? Paint thinner? Goof off?

What should I use to clean it right after using it in the future?

Oils all pretty much set up the same way. They oxidize and form a polymer cross-link. Once this has happened, you have a vegetable plastic coating on everything they came in contact with and were absorbed into. It's non-reversible so after-the-fact cleaning isn't an option.

Removing the oil while it's still liquid usually requires mineral spirits, turpentine or a degreasing agent and needs to be done before the oil starts to get tacky. All the oil must be removed or the bristles will stick together as polymerization sets in.

My basic cleanup is to use turpentine to initially clean out the oil, followed up by a good wash out with dishwashing detergent and a final water rinse. All the oil must be gone.

Or else go with cheap Chinese Boar Bristle brushes and toss them after the job is done.

NOTE: Due to the oxidation and polymerization, treat all rags and any other oil contaminated items with care. The process is exothermic and can generate enough heat to start a fire.


How to remove plastic supply line to dishwasher? I am trying to remove my current dishwasher and would like some advice on disconnecting the supply line.
The supply line to my dishwasher is connected to the shut-off valve with some sort of plastic coupler; the valve itself is connected similarly to the junction (picture below). I tried to undo the plastic coupler with a pair of pliers and it would not budge; I have avoided prying or cutting the coupler to avoid damage to the threading.
What is the best way to undo this type coupler?
Is it possible to keep the valve where it is and connect a conventional stainless steel supply line directly to it for the new dishwasher?
Thanks for any advice out there.

I ended up connecting the new dishwasher by cutting the 1/2" PEX supply line downstream of its respective valve, then using a push-fit adapter to transition it to the 3/8" compression inlet of the braided steel supply line that came with the new dishwasher.
For those interested, the configuration shown in the picture I posted uses a Wirsbo AquaPEX system; it is meant for quick installations with no soldering or threaded fittings. A collar is slipped over the end of some PEX tubing, protruding enough to cover the joint between the tubing and the intended fitting (about 1/16"). The collar and tubing are then mechanically expanded using a proprietary tool; once removed from the tool, the widened collar and tubing is connected to the intended fitting and will begin to contract back to the original diameters, creating a compression fit.
The collar can be removed using a utility knife and progressively deeper cuts. I experimented with the end I cut off (i.e. the end connected to the old dishwasher) and found that a heat gun can also be used to temporarily soften the collar and allow me to pry it off the joint; I slipped the collar back over the joint, re-applied the heat gun, and found that it contracted back to its original size and reformed the compression fit.
Thanks to those who took a look and gave this issue some thought. I hope the solution(s) I'm posting can help someone else with a similar issue. Take care, folks.


Is the receiver for my ceiling fan defective or do I need to modify my wall switch? I just got this minka aire wave ceiling fan an completed the installation but it will not turn on (neither with remote nor switch) UNLESS i take the receiver out altogether and just operate it with the wall switch. I wouldn't mind doing this except there is no drop string to change the fan speed. There are two possibilities here:
1. The receiver is dead
2. The fan does not support wall switch and remote at the same time

I don't care to control the speed or dimmer from the wall just simply need a on/off option.
I did not find any information in the manual but I just want to verify that a ceiling fan with a remote kit installed should not lose operation from the wall switch?

If your wall switch is a simple mechanical switch I don't see how it could possibly have anything to do with the problem.

You can easily rig up a test apparatus to determine if the receiver/transmitter is working properly. (This worked for my Hunter fan with light fixture, but of course I can't say whether a pure resistive load would test the receiver for a Minka Wave fan.

In summary, cut the cord of a working lamp with say a 40-W incandescent bulb and insert the receiver into the cut as if it were the fan. I used this to determine that my receiver was working and the failure must have been due to a poor connection. I had noticed on removing the receiver that at least one of the stranded wires was poorly stripped (most of the strands cut away). I have now replaced the receiver, re-stripped and tinned the wires (on the receiver not on the fan, those were OK) and the fan/light are now working.

See Why doesn't my ceiling fan's light kit work?


How do I easily remove silicone? Since some parts of the siliconed area of my bath tub are damaged, I need to replace the silicone. Is there an easy method to remove that silicone?

I use a plastic putty knife.  Some of my guys even use plastic knives (yes the kind you use at bar-b-ques).

The whole purpose is to scrape it off without damaging what is underneath.  The plastic knives add a serrated cutting tool and the shape is better for cracks/smaller areas.

Some things life (others) has taught me:

WD-40 helps for some reason.  If I give the area a quick spray, wait 10 mins, it cleans up easy 80-90% of the time.  No idea the science behind this.
Razors/metal knives aren't worth it.  Yes they are faster.  But all it takes is one chip and that ends up taking longer to repair than the total removal of the caulk.  I have learned my lesson 5-6 times.
Hair dryer is a mixed bag too.  Unless you are 110% sure it is silicone, I wouldn't be aiming a hair dryer at it as it may make your mess bigger.
On tough jobs I go back to my fix for 90% of cleanup.  Bucket of steaming hot water, Dawn, and bleach.  Sponge some of the hot water to the problem area - I use a kitchen pad which is a sponge on one side and a mild scrubber on the other.  Wait about 30 seconds and repeat until caulk residue is broken down enough to remove with a light scrub.


Why don't they make wood cutoff blades for 4.5" grinder? Many times I used a chisel to cut off a hard-to-reach piece of lumber, I was wishing I had an adequate blade for my 4.5" grinder, as I don't own an oscillating tool.  Why is it hard to find?  Is it because they would be dangerous?

They are made, they look like mini chainsaws and are commonly used for carving bowls.

A common brand for these blades is Lancelot

You can also get smaller saw blades in the 4.5" form factor. I suggest you go to a saw store or woodworking shop. Here is a product on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/KwikTool-BB450-2-Inch-1-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000O3IOEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1357252670&sr=8-2&keywords=angle+grinder+wood+blade


Wiring a receptacle from a ceiling box in a basement I have an electrical box in my basement that I want to wire an outlet into. There are three sets of wires (2 each) -- the usual black and white, and red (and ground). I've tried to wire the outlet with black and white (ignoring red), but I don't get any power from it (receptacle tester indicates "open hot").
I've also tried using the red wires instead of the black. Then I get power (but no ground even though it is connected), but the kitchen light (on the same circuit) flickers when switched off.
My understanding is that the red wire is a hot wire for a switched outlet. But in that case I should be fine just ignoring it, which doesn't work.
What I've tried and checked:

Verified that all the wires are attached correctly to the outlet.
Different outlet. Same result.
Checked that the wires are hot with a non-contact AC tester. Not connecting the two black or two red wires causes other stuff on the same circuit not to work, so they're clearly carrying current.
Tried all switches on the same circuit to see if any of them would switch on power with the black connected. None did.

Any ideas on how to solve this? Should this work, but something else is broken somewhere?
Edit 1:

The cables are in a round ceiling box, with one set of wires coming in in a metal sheathing and the other one NM sheathing.
Pairs of cables were originally pigtailed together (white - white, black - black, red - red) with a twist-on cap. Ground was just loose in the box.
The installer(?) labeled the box "3-way Sw".

Edit 2:
Here's a picture of the box:

The circuit has a 15A breaker.
On the same circuit are 4 lights and one receptacle which is switched with one of the lights.
Solid Copper wires.

Edit 3:

Voltage between black and white is negligible, about 2.5V.
Voltage between red and white and red and black is 117V.
Voltage between ground and everything else is 47V.

Since this is a ceiling box the wiring is probably designed for a light fixture. As such it will have a neutral (which would be the white wires connected together, but it may have only a switched hot and not a line hot (which is always hot). But it is possible that it contains a line hot. The first task would be to find out if you have an always hot in the box.
With the wires connected as they were originally use your non-contact tester to see if the bundle of black wires is hot in all the wall switch positions. Also test the red wires. Record and report to us.
You say you want to use this box as a source for an "outlet" which I take to mean you want a receptacle to be powered with an always hot and a neutral from this box, right?
EDIT1
Use a pair of "pigtails" one white and one black to connect to a receptacle.  The white pigtail connects the bundle of connected whites to the neutral side of the receptacle (the longer slot); the black pigtail connects the bundle of blacks to the hot side of the receptacle (shorter slot). Unless this us a grounded receptacle in a metal box, use a green or bare pigtail to connect the ground wires to the ground screw of the receptacle.
EDIT2
To get maximum use of your wiring you should determine if the black and the red are part of a "multi wire branch circuit".  You have said both are hot, but are these two wires switched by the same 2-pole breaker in your panel? Or are they each switched by one of a pair of linked (handle tied) 1-pole breakers in your panel?


Is this Landscaping Caulk on Outdoor Retaining wall Steps I have steps leading up through my retaining wall and a few of the stones that cap the steps have come loose.

Looking at the place where the steps were, there appears to be some kind of caulk-like material on the stone cap and the base where it sat

Question

Is this some kind of landscaping caulk? Would this product be an example of this kind of caulk?

Extra Questions:

If this some kind of caulk, should I continue to use it? Will it last for several years? Or would it be better to buy some kind of Mortar (type n?) and use that to keep the stone steps in place?

Do you think there's enough surface area (the stone base, not the backfill of stone gravel) to adhere to that my steps should be ok?

Thanks in advance for any answers / insights.

Is this some kind of landscaping caulk?

No, that is an adhesive (glue) of an unknown type. It looks like regular construction adhesive to me.

  Would this product be an example of this...?

Yes

  should I... use it? Will it last for several years? ...would it be better to buy some kind of Mortar and use that to keep the stone steps in place? Do you think there's enough surface area to adhere to...?

I feel that the reason for the failure was poor original application. Also, since the original adhesive type is unknown, that also may have contributed if it was not a glue for exterior use.

Use the glue in your link but use way more of it than was used for the original bond, and try to scrape off all the old glue and clean all the mating surfaces first.


Can my municipal water line siphon from my house water lines? Our local water tower is empty during this winter storm.
I heard my water heater "running" even though there were no faucets on in the house -  I immediately thought I had a burst pipe.
After finding no leaks, I turned on a faucet, and there was actually suction through the spout.
Because my home is on a hill, my theory is that other citizens running their water actually drained my house lines. Is this possible? Shouldn't there be backflow valves or something to prevent this?
In addition, should I be worried about my pipes freezing now that they appear to be empty?
Do standard "winter prep" rules apply to mostly drained plumbing?
I have 40 gallon tank electric heater. I have unplugged it since discovering there was no water.

Yeah, it sounds like you got backsiphoned
Most houses in the US don't have any protection against their municipal water service going negative pressure and backsiphoning any garbage present at outlet points into them.  Even if you have lawn irrigation, the vacuum breaker for that only prevents the irrigation system from contaminating things, not your whole water service.  Likewise with hose bibbs; if your house is recent, your hose bibbs will have vacuum breakers on them, but many older houses lack these, so it was very possible that the contents of your neighbor's kiddie pool or garden sprayer got sucked into the water system.  (Fortunately, most other domestic things have air gaps as part of their installation, but even those aren't foolproof due to the rise of fixtures with extensible heads.)
So, I'd turn off the water heater to avoid heating an empty tank, and make sure to flush your lines and faucets thoroughly once the water's back on, since there's no telling what could have been sucked in during the backsiphonage event.  Also, listen to your water utility, as they may be putting out boil-water orders for a fair length of time after the water comes back on, or even telling you not to use it for drinking if something more...industrial has gotten into the works.


Will the seals in a toilet dry out if the water is disconnected for a long period? If we turn the main water off is it a problem for the seals in the toilet to dry out? We we be gone for a year, so over winter and summer..

There are several things to do before leaving a house for a year.  Try a quick search for "winterize a house" or something similar to find many checklists.  One list I saw mentioned pouring RV antifreeze down each of the drains to fill the P-trap, then putting stoppers in the drains and plastic wrap in the toilet bowl to help keep it from evaporating.


How can I repair suction cups on grab bars? They stay fixed for a time but then lose suction on one side or both, then moves or drops off the shower wall at any time.

It appears to be the spring compresses over time. Can it be adjusted and made to be 'tighter'?

No suction cups are 100% impermeable, meaning they always leak SOME amount of air, even if at a molecular level, so they will eventually let go. There is no way to change that, you just need to periodically release them and re-apply them, cleaning the cup and the surface as well when you do. The only viable alternative is to permanently affix the bars, not use suction cups. If you are a renter, that may not be a viable option, so just take the Preventative Maintenance approach.


Tips for extending the window sill The extended sill would have a depth of about 2 inches.

If I were to extend the window sill using the below approach, would that be strong and stable enough? I may plan to add an additional interior window on that sill.

What can I do about the gap so that it is not noticeable? I am not a woodworking candidate, so I would want to not have to do any wood cutting if that's possible.

Also, if the extended sill is not at the height as the existing window sill, can I add a spackling or wood plastic paste to match their heights? Would that cause any issues when I add additional window on that?

Can I use this updated design instead ? The image also has the 4 positions in which I will screw. Also, I have extended the support to touch the wall.

First, thank you for adding the pictures. It helps a lot.

My best suggestion would be to remove the existing ~1.5" sill. (Properly speaking, it's a stool, with an apron below.) Put a new 4" or so one on. You'd probably have to remove the apron temporarily, as the thickness of the new stool might or might not be exactly the same as the old. Use long horizontal screws (1 per foot), well countersunk, that go at least 2" into the window frame. The worst case is that they glued the stool to the window jamb and you'll have a bit of splintery mess to clean up. It'll disappear with a bit of filler.

Otherwise, you have room to add a whole new ~6" or so on top of everything existing. Screw down at the window side into the window jamb. Caulk the joint between the new stool and the window trim so that condensation doesn't collect below. The downside to this plan is that the aesthetics of a stacked stool strike me as a bit odd, and you'd have to be a little bit fancy with cutting the new stool to fit. (There's lots of information about making templates to match irregular shapes out there.)

As I mentioned in the comments, use real wood for this, primed on all sides. Never MDF.

edit:
As requested from the OP in the comments, a critique of the second plan.

Structurally, it's better to have long screws horizontally into the wall and the add-on stool. That overcomes my initial concern that you were just going to break the original stool. Countersink and counterbore the new pieces so they don't bind when being screwed.

The crack can be filled with a two part wood filler (like Bondo), which will function fairly well. Paradoxically, you'd want a thin gap between the old and the new stools, as the filler will be able to flow below the roundover and thus lock itself in. You can force this crack by putting a metal washer on each horizontal screw. The trick with Bondo is to catch it as it hardens and cut it flush. (The best time is when it's like a firm jello. Poke the leftover filler to decide when you've hit that point.) Use a long sharp, slightly flexible blade (like an Olfa knife) to slice. If you cut too deep, you can add another layer. If you waited too long, you can sand, but that's work.

Prime and paint. You're done.

FWIW, removing the old stool wouldn't involve breaking the vertical casing. As I said, the biggest risk is that it was glued, which would mean a bit of chisel work to make a clean edge. It's absolutely true that a new stool would require a bit of fancy cutting, so I understand if you're reluctant.


Yard Vac only runs on full choke My Parents gave me a Craftsman Yard Vac (Model No. 247.770550) that they hadn't used in a few years. The tank had been empty, but mice had made a nest around the engine. I chased the mice away and fueled up and it worked fine. I cleaned it up for winter, removed a few dead mice and their nest, put some sta-bil in the tank and ran the engine for 10 min. This fall it would not start, I replaced the spark plug, air filter, oil and gasoline (this time with TruFuel). I also took off the housing and cleaned out the rest of the mouse nest. Still no luck. I then decided to clean out the carburetor, it was pretty dirty. I replaced the pin & seat, bowl gasket, and the sealing washer and cleaned everything with carb spray, a paper clip, and a toothbrush.

The Vac now starts but will only run with the choke fully on, and will die after ~2 minutes.

I'll add that after reassembling i had gas leaking all around the carb, i tightened the main jet bolt and it stopped. Also, after using the vac for a little while i had another gas leak out the carb where the air filter hole is (this was after it sat for 5 min), but this stopped quickly.

I just "refurbished" a pressure washer that had set for a while.  I cleaned the carb and got it to where it would start, but it would only run with the choke on.

Through some online research and trial and error, I determined that when choked, the fuel takes a different route through the carb.   I had to remove the main jet and associated parts, soak them in carb cleaner for a while and clean all holes with a wire much finer than a paper clip.  I could only find carb cleaner in a spray can, and I didn't want to purchase a whole gallon of chem-dip, so I just used the spray can to fill the bottom of a glass jar which worked fine.

Once that was done it ran better, but only for a few minutes.  On a hunch, I tried running it for a while with the gas cap off, and it worked.  Turned out the vent hole in the cap was plugged by a spider or who knows what.  After widening the hole a bit, it ran for the rest of the day.

Forgot to mention: Don't get carb cleaner on any of the rubber seals.  It makes them expand, and when they dry they will shrink back to shape, but it's bad for the rubber.

Not the most exact answer, but hope it helps!


Can I cut tempered glass with diamond circular saw blade? This is safety glass, but it's very old glass <1994. So probably not the kind that will smash, but kite mark should tell you if it does.

I want to make a new door for my greenhouse out of it if I can, but that of course means cutting it down.

Safety glass is either tempered, laminated (with plastic layers for shard retention), wired with mesh, or a combination. Rarely can any of them be cut without detonation. I would not attempt it without substantial safety gear.


How do I replace a condenser fan motor in a central air unit? The condenser fan motor on my central air unit has seized up (tried like crazy to turn it it, but no go). I'm not sure how old the motor is but I'm guessing it's original, so about 12 years old. I have located a universal motor that is listed as being compatable with my motor (same horse power, voltage, RPM's, etc) for about $100 online.

The installation looks fairly simple, looks like I will just need to pull the electrical wires out of the existing motor and connect them to the new motor in the same fashion that I did when replacing our garbage disposal.

I have 3 questions:

Has anyone used a universal motor to replace an original one before and how well did it do?
Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to do this myself? (Yes, I know to make sure and disconnect the power)
If I did need a professional to replace the motor for me, would I be better off getting the motor myself and having them install it or allowing them to purchase the motor (maybe they can get a better deal) and have them install it.

First off, I vote for a new unit if you can swing it, but $100 is a lot cheaper and you are not likely to offset the cost of a new unit with the savings from a newer, more efficient unit for many years.

The condenser fan motor isn't that hard to change, you just need basic hand tools and a gear puller. It would also be a good time to replace the fan start capacitor as well.


Why does this kitchen receptacle located on the far side, away from the sink, need to be GFCI? According to this answer, all receptacles in a kitchen that serve a countertop surface must be GFCI protected.

Which Kitchen outlets do NOT need GFCI?

I already replaced the outlets next to the sink with gfci and will now replace an outlet located on the opposite side of the kitchen sink, so my understanding is that I must replace with a gfci (and tamper resistant too?). I have no problems following code, but I'd rather understand the reasoning behind code. Why does this receptacle need to be gfci protected if it is far away from the sink?

(Is that outlet in the kitchen, or is it in the dining area? If it's in the dining area, it might not need GFCI.)

The reasoning I'd give is that kitchen outlets are much more likely to be dealing with water than other outlets, even if they're nowhere near the sink. You could have a coffeemaker, or slow cooker, or microwave, or bread maker plugged in there, all of which can have both water and electricity in the same appliance, which increases the possibility of electric shock.


How should I connect a new dimmer switch? I'm trying to install a dimmer switch. Are the 2 black wires acting as a pass through? Obviously, green to green, but then what? both blacks and brown, leave white capped? Please help, sorry for being a newb. :)

You are going to need to identify the hot and the switched hot. It looked like the hot goes to black and the switched hot goes to the brown. Connect white to whites and ground to ground as you thought.


2 prong to 3 prong outlet - with pigtailed grounds I've seen a bunch of these questions and I just want to be absolutely positive that I'm doing the correct thing here.
I have about 2-4 wall outlets per bedroom - all of them on 15amp breaker(s). I would like to replace them with 3 prong outlets.
Each outlet (aside from the last on the line) has 6 wires (black, white, bare copper - in/out). The bare copper ones are pigtailed together and attached with a screw to receptacle.
To replace, do I just need to:

15 amp 2 prong outlet get a 3 prong outlet
Connect the black to brass, white to silver, and the pigtailed to ground in new outlet?

Photo of outlet with pigtailed grounds
Anything different from above if I want to put in a GFCI? (Converting a br to home office with computer) - is the gfci necessary?

You've got a pretty good idea on what needs to be done. Naturally, you'll be turning off the breaker to the circuit.
In cases like this, I've always pigtailed the blacks together and had one connection to the outlet and do the same to the neutrals. You'll need some extra black and white wire and some wire nuts but it makes for a neater installation. If an outlet connection gets loose, it doesn't affect the whole circuit.
A converted bedroom to an office wouldn't need GFCI protection but you'd add them the same way for a single outlet protection and would use the load terminals for a daisy chain protection.


Small patch in wall sheathing behind masonry chimney I noticed a small hole, about 14” x 14” in our attic on the gable side. I wonder if it used to be a gable vent. Home was built in 66’

What can i do to patch this up? It looks like this sheathing material is called “blackboard” Our pest control guy said PestBlok breathable material. We could also screen it I assume. The rest of the area looks good so i don’t think it was taken out because of damage or anything.

Also, there’s some gaps in the siding along there. But the roofline seems fine. Roofing and Siding co said caulk and filler is all we need. Pest guy said drip edge installed to siding and then sealed to the chimney.

Thanks for any input! Main concern is critters making their way into the attic, and then also just don’t really want a hole in the attic, i imagine energy escapes there like crazy! Seems totally dry when it rains which is at least good.

You don't have to worry about energy loss. Your attic floor is insulated; that's the heat barrier for the home. You even want to get heat out of your attic to prevent ice dams (assuming you're in a temperate clime), but you have a vent right next to your chimney, so you'll be fine. Critters, though, could be a problem.

I don't think it matters how you cover it up; I'd put a piece of plywood on it.


Supplying power to my camp with a generator I'm building a remote camp and will wire it for lights and receptacles (only). I plan to back-feed power from a generator to a small sub panel which has 6 breakers. Should I run 220v from generator to sub panel or 110v? The stove and frig are propane.

If your gen hasvoltage fluctuation better than regoular incandescent 220V output, it's better (for gen. health) to use both phases and balance the circuits across them, if your gen is 110 only... you havn't asked the question.
I suggest not to use electric hot-water also but to run it on LPG .
If you consider keeping the generator running all the time, electric fridge is better then LPG-fired.

For lighting I suggest to go for LEDs, now it's cheap and tolerate voltage variations better than a regular incandescent/halogen. Also will give you more light-hours without having to refuel or more light for the same power.

Also suggest to install breaker (on outlet circuits) that, as total, won't drain more than 80% power capacity of your unit (remember you have also  lighting). So if your gen is 5,5kW/220V 2-Ph, your 'general breaker' shouden't be bigger than 5500/220 = 40A and 'outlet' breakers souldn't be bigger than: (40 x 80%)/2 = 16A for each 'leg' if you have 2 outlets' circuit

Note: protections are kept 'low' (compared to standard) to avoid overloading the generator.

Edit: if you don't have a 'utility' power connection to your panel, you can connect the generator directly as 'main' supply, without the need for an interlock (as the generator will be the only source for your power).


Wiring a double oven on a wall opposing the wiring? I upgraded from a single to a double oven and need to move it to the other side of the kitchen. Is it safe to run a 220V extension cord from the wiring to the oven under the flooring? If not what is the best way to approach this?

No this is not safe nor to code. Extension cords cannot be concealed. A new circuit should be run to the new location and the old circuit decommissioned and/or removed.  Depending on if the oven is hardwired or corded will dictate how it should be terminated (either a plug or an electrical box).

It sounds like you are unfamiliar with this, so the "best" way is to contact a licensed electrician to completely this.


What kind of filter do I need if I want to reuse the shower water? I am helping a friend with renewing a bathroom. He is looking at the possibility of storing and reusing the shower water for the garden.

What kind of filter do we need to install to make this possible? I suppose we need to remove the soap and any other particles.
Is it even feasible in a simple way?

Step one is up to the local jurisdiction having authority - is this even legal in the specific place you want to do it? If not, fugeddaboutit.

After that there are many options - a reed bed filter is common in "permaculture" applications, a sand filter is another approach.


Can i use normal extension cord for a Surge Protector As stated in the above pic, is this OK for a connection?

Now, i don't know much about electrical and stuff. I was worried that the normal extension cord in the middle might trip off, worse heats up and burn?

The surge protector is rated @ 2500w while the fan is about 65w.

Also i did the diagram above due to the actual (real) scenario i got where i was  constricted to use only 1 socket on from the wall and can't directly connect the fan to the surge protector due to the distance from the fan to the surge protector.

Also, i could directly connect the surge protector to the wall socket however, i can't use the fan while the surge protector is plugged (note: i can only use 1 socket from the wall)

Thanks for the inputs

There are two separate issues here - power and protection:
Power
Extension cords are (or should be...) rated for the amount of power they can handle, but basically the thinner the wires, the less power it can safely handle. The rating of the surge protector (2,500W is actually a lot - in the US typically I see 1,875W which is based on 15A @ 125V) is not actually the most important number. What really matters is the power you expect to use, which is the power required by the computer, monitor, lamp, etc. A typical computer might be 200W - 600W, so you are typically looking at well under 1,000W of actual usage. One big exception is if you are connecting a laser printer - they can draw quite a bit of power when printing.
Safety
Everything needs to match, with no shortcuts. Your sample picture doesn't match at all. The surge protector shows one type of receptacle (European?), the extension cord shows a US-style 2-wire polarized receptacle (no ground) and the wall receptacle is a US-style 3-wire grounded receptacle.
If any devices require grounding (i.e., 3-prong plug) then everything should be grounded with the same style plug. Typically computer power supplies require grounding, and surge protectors definitely require grounding. So that leaves the extension cord and the wall receptacle. It is easy to find 3-wire grounded extension cords. It is not always so easy to change the wall receptacle to provide grounding, so if you only have a 2-wire receptacle then this becomes an entirely different question.
Assuming you have a 3-wire ground receptacle and you have 3-wire everything else to match and your extension cord is rated at or above the combined rating of your attached equipment (computer, monitor, lamp, etc., fan) then you should be fine. But for safety's sake (including tripping hazard) get an extension cord as close as possible to the required length - e.g., don't get a 100' cord (even if it is on an awesome sale) if a 10' cord will do just fine.


How close can an IMC coupler be to the unsupported portion of the rise above a roof? I'm setting up my entrance riser for my shop.  The weather head is 13' up from the top of the panel box, and the shop "roof" is 11' from that with 2' of the 2.5" IMC conduit riser extending above the roof.  The problem is, the IMC comes in 10' threaded sections so I will have the connection about 1' below the roof line.  The connections are very rigid, and I will put a single brace above the connection to the wall (see picture)  I cant find anywhere in code showing this other than an implication that there has to be a brace between the connection and the unsupported section.  The threaded connections seem as rigid as the pipe itself.
My question is: Does this attachment meet NEC intent?
The second option which I don't like and don't have the equipment for, is to cut the lower IMC piece and re-thread it at about 8' length...  For info, I am in AZ and the service will be Tucson Electric Power.

Final set up:  (i ended up threading the 5' section at a local machine shop)

Some great suggestions and I did get a shorter 5' piece of the 2 1/2" IMC threaded and did exactly what Freeman and Ecnerwal suggested.  But to answer my original question:

Answer: The final top section of IMC conduit needs to be securely tied to the structure by at least one strap/tie. (This is from my interpretation of my local codes and discussions with the TEP installation engineer) This means the coupler will need to be (at least) ~6" below the top depending on the wall makeup you will be tying to. (more is better).  And that a second strap/tie will need to be BELOW the top coupler more than 8" (from the TEP SR guidance).  So from what I've found and interpreted, I  Could have set it up like my original cartoon, but the recommended way was superior and had a stronger finished "appearance".    This is my interpretation from my local electric company service requirements: https://esr.tep.com/wp-content/uploads/SR-305.pdf


Adding a shower to this bathtub I'm trying to add a shower option to this bathtub. I'm a very new home owner and don't even know if this is a good idea. The challenges I'm having are:

Connecting a hand held shower head to the existing faucet and attaching a mount to the ceiling. A picture of the size and thread of the faucet aerator is below.
Attaching a curtain rod that would surround the shower area. The dimensions of the entire tub area (wall to wall, and wall to edge) are 76x39 in. The tub itself and the ideal area enclosed by curtains is 54x35 in. I can't seem to find a D shaped curtain rod with those dimensions.
Determining if the ceiling will be resistant enough to the moisture. It has two fresh coats of semi-gloss paint, but is only ~5 inches above the users head. You can see an opening where a venting fan and lightbulb are. It has a clear plastic cover that was removed for the picture. It allows air in from the sides so I can't see water bouncing in there, but I'm worried about the ceiling water resistance.

What thread is that and where can I find shower hoses that will attach?
What are my best options for fitting the 54x35 in. dimensions for a surrounding shower curtain.
Is the ceiling going to have water problems? If so what can I do about it?
Are there other problems I'm not seeing?

I have to comment that that tub structure is not really designed for a shower. You would have to install a shower curtain that draped into the tub on at least three sides to prevent water accumulation along the walls beyond the lip of the tub.

As a suggestion you could look into a shower kit designed to convert an old style free standing tub into a shower but personally I think it would really uglify your bath area.


Is this an Ethernet cable running to my alarm panel? 8 conductor cable, not plugged into anything nor terminated. Thank you!
EDIT: Just to clarify, I'd like to use it as an Ethernet cable and it is not currently being used for anything, so I want to see if I can just crimp Ethernet connector to it (and find the other end) if it'll work as an Ethernet cable without causing any problems.
I believe that jacket reads "24 AWG C(ETL) US LISTED 2003548 TYPE CMR/MPR FT4 BKC 118163 25BCB FEET ETL." Photos below:

So I think it actually IS an Ethernet cable.
Looking farther into the hole on the cable markings, I see "ETL VERIFIED TO TIA/EIA 568B."
However, I think I don't know where the cable comes out on the other side. The ones in the "structural panel" that are yellow are all rated CM and this one is CMR, so I don't think it is the same cable.


Compatibility for Thomas & Betts breakers Need to replace Thomas & Betts 2-pole 30 amp breaker for a water heater. What brand would be compatible? Panel is also T&B. TBB10 (20-20) C Model #1

This handy chart seems to show that the Eaton CL230 breaker is a "Classified" replacement for the Thomas Betts TB230 breaker.

Since this is a pretty common breaker sold at national big box home improvement stores it should be straightforward to compare the two.  These cheaper breakers are normally not even in a package, making comparison even easier.

The comment from isherwood about the type of panel you have is valid.  This is meant to point you in the right direction, but its not a definitive "certified" answer.


What bit to use to cut a hole in quartz counter top? What bit should I use to cut a hole to put in quartz counter top. I got a Glass ceramic tile bit and was wondering if that would work

You will cut this as it is granite and use a diamond tip hole bit (see example that I have used).  Not an endorsement because I cut a hole in granite 3-4 times a year but they worked fine for me.

Quartz is a little easier to cut than granite but I would still go diamond.  Also make sure you have someone pouring water on the scene, take you time, put little to no pressure on the bit after it starts, and if things are going too slow reverse and pull the bit out and try again (let it cool and clear out debris).


Aquarium in the wall I want to build a wall with aquarium inside. This wall will divide my office from recreational room. Aquarium will be about 2 meters long and 0.7 - 0.9 m high. Width is about 50 - 60 cm.

What precautionary actions should i take before building such wall? How to make sure that this construction will be sturdy and solid, so my aquarium won't break?

Update:
My floor is concrete (basement), wall will be made of 2x4s and drywall. I am planning to have access to the tank from the back, so i can do maintenance.

There will be a lot in common with framing a window.  Here are a few things to consider:

Make sure the floor can support the weight of a tank full of this much water.
If you're on concrete, or think there's even a remote chance of moisture from the tank getting to the wall, I'd use pressure treated wood.
Consider how you will access the tank once it's inside the wall.  I think a false wall building out the side of a room with a closet door to access the tank from behind would be easier to maintain.


Radio Coming Through Speakers In Home I've lived in a mobile home for a long time that has bad wiring. Even the receptacles are mounted bad and I have to tape plugs to the wall for them to stay in.

For years there never was a problem but the last year I have radio stations coming through the speakers I have my computer hooked up to. It's just
speakers, there's no receiver.

It happens 24 hours a day and its annoying. I can't sit here in peace and quiet.

I knocked the plug out of the wall the other day and told my landlord to fix the outlet. He hasn't yet, but can the receptacles or wiring have something to do with the radio coming through?

I take it these are powered speakers plugged into the computer?  They usually have very cheap, poorly-shielded little amplifiers in them which are good at demodulating radio and playing it out the speaker.  A mobile phone call nearby will typically also cause a bunch of beeping and "dirtdirtdirt" noises.

If your computer has a three-pin plug but is plugged into an ungrounded outlet or the ground is faulty on that outlet, that is a safety issue and may also contribute to the noise.

If you've got some $2 earbuds, plug those into the PC and see if you get radio noise.  If the earbuds are quiet and produce the PC sounds properly, then you know the problem is probably with the powered speakers.  If the earbuds also play radio, then the fault is either in the computer or its grounding.


Ganged Circuit Breaker has strange ganging configuration. 40-[30-30]-40 I have a scenario where the Circuit Breakers for a Dryer and a Range are intertwined in the CB panel. In the picture below 17 and 20 are ganged together with that wild ganging clip. 18 and 19 both 30amps are ganged together normally.

Is this kind of ganging of breakers with in code ?
Why would anyone do this ?
Why wouldn't they just connect this normally 17 & 18 and then 19 & 20?

EDIT 7-11-2018

Based on write ups and comments etc.. I  felt it better to edit my post rather than to go through each write-up/comment.

Please don't read anything into the numbering of spaces, I was told the previous homeowner did that numbering.

17 & 20 Range........40 Amp Range.
18 & 19 Dryer..........30 Amp Dryer.
1 & 2, 3 & 4.............60 Amp Heater.
5 & 6, 7 & 8.............30 Amp Air Conditioner.
21 & 22, 23 & 24.....30 Amp Water Heater.

I know each pole is 120V circuit. I know that you gang them in a 240V circuit (L1,L2) - in a residence in USA you don't normally get 220V Single Phase (HI-Leg or Stinger Leg - of course they all sting if you ask me).

So each pole Odd/Even slot - A & B Phase if you will (L1, L2). Normally Odd (1, 3, 5 etc) is L1 and Even (2,4,6 etc) is L2 (of course I don't think code states which is L1 and which is L2). That way when you place a 240V breaker in; it takes up the Odd Slot {120V - L1} and the Even Slot {120V - L2} for 240V. This might be panel dependent but that is the jist of getting 240V from L1 and L2.

As for the breaker in question I do believe it is a Quad as some have linked to. Which basically sounds like 2 Double Stuffs in one unit , in order to fit the number of breakers that are needed. Seems to me the Builder did not size the panel correctly and just Stuffed away.

This is a bit backwards, but OK as long as the breakers have a common trip mechanism inside them

Normally, you'd see this configuration as a 30-40-40-30, but either way, this is a quadplex breaker, where the outside half-poles are ganged together to form 1 240V circuit while the inside half-poles are ganged together to form the other 240V circuit.  You wouldn't get anything good out of the other configuration, as the two upper half-poles connect to the same bus stab (i.e. are on the same leg), and likewise with the two lower half-poles.  The crazy-looking handle-tie (what you call a "ganging clip") is manufacturer-supplied, and normal for this type of quadplex breaker -- it allows the handles to be operated together when you operate them by hand.  Common trip is handled by an internal mechanism, however.

As to why someone would do this? They simply ran out of panel space -- this is also evidenced by the large quantity of double-stuff breakers in the panel.  (This is why putting in a panel that barely fits is penny-wise and pound-foolish, especially for the main panel in a building.)  It's OK by Code as long as the panel is labeled and listed to accept double-stuff breakers in those two slots -- check your panel labeling for details.


How should I run speaker, HDMI and electrical wiring for my ceiling mounted projector theater room? BACKGROUND:

New house built 5 years ago.  I have a basement theater room with 12 foot drywall ceilings that have HVAC conduit and recessed lighting (in other words there is some space behind/above the drywall).  I have a projector I need to ceiling mount and a surround sound system to run front and rear speakers.

I plan to have the projector in the ceiling and the other electronics (receiver, etc) off to the side of the room on the ground (receiver cabinet).  So I need to run power and HDMI from the receiver cabinet to the projector as well as speaker wire from the receiver cabinet to the four corners of the room.  I have a 25 foot HDMI, speaker wire and an indoor/outdoor extension cord.

QUESTION:

My primary concern is how to run the HDMI and power to the projector.  Should I run some sort of conduit or channel in the ceiling (exposed or hidden) -- like a server room runs ethernet cable?  If behind the wall, is it safe/code to run an extension cord behind the drywall in the ceiling to power the projector?

I may run the speaker along the baseboard simply to avoid extensive wiring/holes in my ceiling so I'm less concerned about how to do that.

HDMI and speaker wire are basically signal wires, not power wires. Both the voltage and amperage is very low.  Indoors it is safe to run these hidden or exposed without channel or conduit if they are properly rated. See this Q&A for a discussion of proper rating.

When channel or conduit is used, it is either for convenience in handling, and to keep the wires away from other materials, or it is used to improve the aesthetics - channel can be painted and looks neater than cables.

There are limits as to how much signal wire can be run in cable or conduit, but this is generally a function of pure physical space and ability to pull wire, rather than heat or safety. Speaker wire can be tacked to baseboards or other molding if that works. be careful to avoid breaking the insulation or the inner wires when stapling, and if you put wire under moldings, be careful not to nail through.  Its not a danger issue, is a broken wire/no signal issue.

Power, including extensions to run a projector, is very different.  No code allows extension cords to be buried in wall. I don't think any codes allow extensions to be tacked to baseboards. Also power cables should not run parallel to signal wires - they can cause interference even though many signal wires (like HDMI) are shielded.

You need to bring a regular, properly installed power line to the projector. This can be properly installed NM cable inside a wall to an outlet box.  It can be surface wiring, but this requires standard metalic surface channels and boxes such as this and this:

One other note.  Lampcord is often used as speaker wire. It is the same as is used for AC power cords and small extension cords. If you are using such wire, be careful, if you are burying in walls or stapling, that it is speaker wire rather than power carrying wire.


Hardwire or plug in for LED strip lighting? I'm interested in installing LED strip lighting around a door frame in a reach-in closet and laundry space (essentially a deeper reach-in closet with washer/dryer side by side).

I plan to purchase aluminum channels, install them along the sides and top of the door frame, next to the molding, and insert the LED strip lights inside. I would like to also have the lighting be controlled by a regular light switch or sensor.

I am having difficulty deciding if going with a regular plug-in transformer or with a hardwired transformer option is best (i.e., looks professional)/code-compliant.

I'm not sure that I want an AC adapter brick hanging out on the floor or shelf (or wherever I decide to put it). Similarly, if going with the hardwired option, do I need to enclose it in a box or protect it somehow?

Thanks!

No matter what you do, yes, you have to follow electrical codes (in North America, the NEC), and this means proper enclosures for any mains voltage stuff. The NEC doesn't have anything to say about low voltage (<= 30V) wiring.

Essentially this comes down to preference, there's no right answer as to what is 'better'. A hard-wired solution can have a neater final appearance, but it's also more work to install and very difficult to remove.

Since what you're doing is kind of non-standard, I'd personally go with something easier to remove.

Install an outlet somewhere up high and near the door frame, then install a light switch (wherever is convenient) wiring it so the switch controls half the outlet. I'd look for a plug-in type transformer ("wall wart" style), wire it to the LED strip and plug it into the controlled outlet.

If you trim excess wire from the transformer (and maybe even run a small bit of stick-on conduit) it will still be very neat, and the benefit is you can completely remove the LED strip and be left with a standard plug and switch. Later someone could plug in their own light to this, or even convert the outlet to an actual light fixture (depending on where you put the outlet).


How to repair asphalt roof with no decking I had a windstorm blow a large tree limb through the roof of my shed and I need to repair it. It's one of those pre-made sheds that the previous homeowner likely got installed on-site from Home Depot or similar. Problem is there is no decking on the roof at all, it has 24in studs with what looks like a 1/2" insulation and moisture barrier and that's it.
It's not exactly new, so I'm considering just re-tiling over the existing asphalt for the entire roof but still I'm not quite sure how to properly secure the new tiles with nothing to nail them into except studs every 24in.
Is there any way to repair this other than replacing the entire roof?
Is there a typical way to deal with repairing or re-roofing these or do people normally tear it all the way down to install decking and tile it properly?

Your roof has Osb sheathing for a deck.
This particular roof has used Osb that has a foil overlay on the underside that theoretically blocks some radiant heat from entering the structure.
Repairs and re roofing would proceed as with any roof on OSB.
https://lpcorp.com/products/panels-sheathing/radiant-barrier


installing prehung doors ez-hang kits I'm going to be replacing many hollow core interior doors with solid core doors and I want to replace the jambs with VGDF (vertical grain doug fir) to match the doors, so I'm going with pre-hung doors to make it easier and faster.

I see these metal bracket kits, like EZ-Hang door installation kits. There are several brands and they all look the same. These kits look really easy to use and they are about $4-$5 a door.

Is there a down-side to these kits? I don't see anything negative about them. Anybody have any experience with these? Any tips to share? thx

They don't look particularly rigid, and solid doors are heavy. plastic wedges are cheap. wooden wedges are even cheaper (easy to make on a drop saw), I'd be putting wooden wegdes and panel adhesive ("no nails" etc) and nailing through the jamb and the wedges into the framing (before the glue sets)


Connect separate Heat / AC systems to a Nest E I have oil/hydro zoned heat, and a separate AC system. I have Honeywell ProSeries thermostats that have some 16 wire connectors (apparently designed to handle a nuclear power plant or something). I recently found an offer through my electric company to purchase Nest thermostats dirt cheap and they are the 'E' model. I decide to buy them to get the remote control/app features, but the Nest E has more limited wiring options compared to it's big brother (Y, G, R, W, C, O/B).
With separate systems I have separate wiring (Rc, G, Y for AC / R, W for Heat). I am quite comfortable with general electrical stuff and after reading several of the questions and answers here, I can understand that there are two separate 24v feeds (R & Rc) and since they are coming from separate transformers they should not be combined. The Nest E model doesn't support my system configuration according to their installation app, but it's just a switch, right? I could probably figure out this puzzle, but I'm looking for some confirmation so I don't fry anything.
I was thinking that perhaps I could wire the thermostat so that the transformer from the heater is driving all of the 24v power and use relays at the AC to complete the AC loops (Y/G) while isolating the two 24v sources. Is that sound thinking? I've heard of using a separate transformer for a 'C' connection (I have none now) but it's unclear to me how 24v at C relates to the R and Rc I have now.
If I just put both 24v (red) wires together in the Nest E (with power off of course) and then at the ac I cut the thermostat lines and run them into two relays; the red wire now has 24v coming from the heater so I run R/Y to one relay and hook the AC R/Y lines to the other side, and the same for the R/G combo. Perhaps there is an alternative related to the C line, but not sure what that would be. Is my thinking sound?
Updating with more details and photos:
I'm getting closer to making the changes based on my interpretation of the answer and diagram from @jwh20. My AC transformer is 40a and my heat is using dual transformers (unmarked) but lists the overall capacity at 80a. I have limited wiring and cross wiring capabilities as the boiler and control board is in the basement and the AC is in the attic, but it does appear that I have one free line in each.
AC Board:

Heater Board:

The heat board appears to wire the thermostat lines backwards (and I'm surprised this works ... seems that the thermostat doesn't care which is hot and which is neutral). I'll swap the wires on the first four zones to ensure consistent polarity since I'll be coupling the systems together.
Here is my plan:

adjust/correct heater thermostat polarity for consistency
use third wire from heat thermostat lines to connect to yellow (common) transformer line
disconnect 24v source (+/-) from AC board
connect 24v+ from heater (red) at thermostat to AC red line (to backfeed 24v power)
connect new common 24v (-) line from heater through extra line in AC thermostat bundle to the 24v (-/C) post on the AC board.

??. Thermostat currently works with no 'C' connection, is there a reason to connect C to the thermostat?

To make this work you need a common 24VAC source for both units.  Chances are that either of your existing transformers will do the job but check the 24VAC requirements for each and make sure the capacity of the transformer you choose is adequate.  If neither is, get a larger one and use it.
You'll also need a C wire which is the "neutral" side of the transformer, wired to your thermostat.  Both units will need to share the C wire so you may need to do some wiring.
I drew the following sketch which I think should work for you using the connections you said were available on your two units.


Do the end caps on this fuse get transferred to the new fuse when/if it blows? This is one of the time delay fuses in the box outside by my a/c condensor unit:

New ones don't come with the copper end caps as far as I can tell:

I'm guessing they just get pried off the bad fuse and pressed onto the new fuse??

Yes, it appears these adapters are common.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-626-38632-Fuse-Adapter-60-to-30-Reducer-for-Class-H-250V