Brand new 3-way lamps not working correctly Ok so I'm at my wits end on this...I've bought two different 3-way lamps this week. Both are not cycling correctly through the three brightness settings.

The first lamp was 'Better Homes' brand from Walmart. I bought the recommended bulbs. 'GE Reveal' 3 way A21 - 150watt max bulbs. Both had major issues. The first flickered very badly on the low setting. The second one seemed to work fine, but 10 minutes later I smelt a burning smell. I called GE and complained. I returned those bulbs, then bought a 'Sunbeam' brand bulb, same correct specifications. Worked correctly for 3 days, then started malfunctioning. The low setting didnt work, and medium and high settings were both on medium brightness. At this point, thinking it was the lamp, I returned it to Walmart.

So today I bought an 'Allen Roth' lamp from Lowes. Along with the recommended A23 - 100watt max, 'UtiliTech Pro' LED. They were out of the CFL version so I went with that choice. Guess what? Same problem, low setting doesn't work. Medium and high setting is medium brightness only. I tried the lamp out in multiple places in my home, both through the wall outlets and a surge protector.

Could it be the wiring in my house? I have no problems with flickering lights, nothing ever trips, etc. So I'm at a loss here..Thank you for any help.

Possibly - you're not screwing the bulb in tight enough. Most bulbs need to make one contact at the tip, these need to make two.

But more likely these are duff fixtures.  "Better Homes & Gardens" has never made a lamp in their long history publishing magazines; it's obvious they've "rented out their brand" (like Curtes Mathes of late).  A quick Googling shows that only Walmart sells it, so it's effectively a house brand of Walmart.

Same with Allen Roth, it's a made-up house brand of Lowes.

Those are the cheapest low-bidder units that Walmart and Lowes buyers can find in east Asia. For both companies, unit cost is everything and they drive a very hard bargain with their suppliers. There's a good chance they either came out of the same factory, or at least, the switches and sockets came from the same factory.  No wonder they failed the same.

My brain short-circuited when you said you called GE and complained.  GE was founded by Thomas Edison himself and not only make jet engines, windmills and locomotives, they make the best ones on earth.  So let's talk about quality.

In household and commercial lighting, I think GE is a smidge better than even the respectable top-shelf suppliers like Sylvania or Philips/Advance.  Cree is an American company whose thing is making LED emitters, and they're considered the best in that field.  Whether that translates into making good consumer products, I don't know.  Ikea has been better than I'd expect.

Utilitech, Lights of America and Feit Electric, however, are the bottom shelf, the junk of the junk, they'll cut any corner to hit the price-point that'll make you put it in your cart.  That is why those brands are wall-to-wall at Lowes, Home Depot, Costco, Kmart and Walmart.  (notice I didn't say Target.)  And those stores "hold their feet to the fire" to make them shave cost... which is death to an LED, as I'll explain below.

If you want to buy junk, that's fine, just do it with eyes wide open.  The big-box stores don't care - they've run the numbers, they know most people don't return bad product if it's cheap, and for the few that do, they make such good margin that they can afford it.

Lastly CFLs.  I worked for the company that invented them, and they're rewiring their own buildings with LEDs.  That says it all.  LED is superior in every way, and at this point there is no reason to buy another CFL, ever. CFLs are gone from Ikea, get very little shelf space in CostCo, price is in free-fall (doing what electronics prices do), so in another year or two, CFLs will be relegated to the dollar-store, and then, gone.  Given the annoyance of recycling them and the nightmare of dealing with a broken CFL... and their short service life... good riddance.   Please don't buy anymore... it's time for that technology to go.

Just for reference, LEDs have no toxic hazards and can be thrown in the trash.

Quality CFLs lasted 10 years.  (cheap ones didn't obviously.)  Given the nature of LED tech, I fully expect a quality unit to last 30-40.  Years.  Seriously.  But that rather depends on the quality of the build.  The weak link is the electronic driver circuit, and there are lots of ways to cheap those out with 1-year or 3-year components.  And that's what the junk brands are doing when the big-box stores put the price squeeze on them.


What is a normal drip rate for a condensing tankless hot water heater? I have a Tagaki T-H3-DV-N (Indoor) tankless hot water heater. It has a condensation drip spout, and drips about 1 gallon of water per day. Is this excessive or normal?

Edit: I've spoken to the manufacturer who have zero specs on this. Tagaki support wouldn't even say that a gallon a minute was excessive. They were not helpful. The 3rd party seller (a radiant floor company) said a gallon a day seems high, but might not be depending on usage.

I'm currently running a longer test to get a better average number of the flow rate. Will report back.

Edit 2: Longer test on a fairly cold week gives ~0.57 gallon/day. Seems reasonable according to the manufacturer and seller.

That seems high to me, but it's mostly dependent on your gas supply moisture level (they have tolerance for moisture inside your gas line) and the humidity in your combustion air supply. Do you live in a moist or high-humidity area?  Has it changed recently, i.e. more water being discharged all of a sudden?


Is it safe to cut a bit into a "Double Header(?)" over a closet door that supports ceiling beams? So, I a closet with a lot of wood over the door area. I was hoping to make a small window over the door area for a projector.

It currently looks like this from the outside.

Here are the beams seen from the inside of the closet.

Here's what I'm trying to accomplish.

To do this, I'd need to remove a 6" x 7" chunk from the two back-to-back beams (6" in from the bottom, and a 7" horizontal cut).

The beams I want to cut support beams that go across the ceiling. There's a floor above where I'd be cutting.

If there are more things I need to factor in, lemme know and I'll post more info.

From International Residential Code, your local planning department is the final authority on what may or may not be done after inspecting what modifications you are intending to do. This is a job that requires a permit and consultation with an experienced contractor.

R802.7.1 Sawn lumber. Notches in solid lumber joists, rafters, blocking and beams shall not exceed one-sixth of the depth of the member, shall not be longer than one-third of the depth of the member and shall not be located in the middle one-third of the span. Notches at the ends of the member shall not exceed one-fourth the depth of the member. The tension side of members 4 inches (102 mm) or greater in nominal thickness shall not be notched except at the ends of the members. The diameter of the holes bored or cut into members shall not exceed one-third the depth of the member. Holes shall not be closer than 2 inches (51 mm) to the top or bottom of the member, or to any other hole located in the member. Where the member is also notched, the hole shall not be closer than 2 inches (51 mm) to the notch.

The tension side of members: In normal gravity loading, this is the bottom of the beam, in cantilever, the top of the beam.


How can I extend the rough-in drain away from the wall? I installed a new bathroom vanity and sink, and the sink is a slightly different size than the old one. As such, the tailpiece for the new sink doesn't line up with the existing drain line coming out of the wall (I have to move the sink back another half inch or so in the picture below).

I've got to move the drain away from the wall by about an inch. Normally, I'd just cut off whatever is there and redo it, but there is not much pipe left behind the p-trap to glue things to.

How can i reposition the drain so that the tailpiece from the sink fits?

Yes, the solvent welded elbow above the trap does makes things challenging. How excited are you to completely remove the old trap and elbow?

It's likely the connection can be made using the existing trap. Swing it a little to either side, cut the old riser short, and use a pair of 45° elbows to make a jog in the riser to align with the new sink tail piece. Or, use a flexible section rather than fixed elbows.

If completely removing the old trap and elbow is your preference it can be done mechanically or with heat.

The mechanical method is to cut off the elbow at the base of the socket. Next, grind or sand away what's left of the elbow on the pipe. Take care not to cut too deeply. A rotary tool such as a Dremel works well.

The heat method is to warm the fitting with a heat gun. At some point the PVC makes a transition from solid to rubbery. When it reaches that point it can be massaged and tugged with a wrench or maybe a gloved hand. This breaks the solvent-weld bond between the fitting and the pipe inside. The pipe temperature will not lag far behind the elbow temperature, though, so it takes some care to work the elbow off without deforming the pipe too.


New paint cracking on caulk bead along exterior trim and j-channel flashing I recently had new windows installed and replaced an exterior door myself. I have aluminum siding and so there's strips of metal j-channel flashing along the door and window trim, butting up to the siding.

After the trim and jchannel was installed, I ran a bead of caulk between the trim and jchannel, waited a day or so, and then painted with new exterior black paint. After a couple of weeks in the sun, the paint seems to have torn where the caulk hits the steel j-channel. It doesn't appear that the caulk tore. I'm guessing this is because of the change in temperature.

What am I doing wrong? How can I fix this? I'm thinking about putting another light coat of paint over the top but want to make sure I'm not missing something here.

By the way, the caulk is an acrylic exterior caulk that is paintable. I forget the exact type, but it might be DAP alex fast dry or something along those lines.

Thanks!

Maintenance-free siding materials are typically installed with a loose-fastener arrangement because they're floating and move a lot with temperature. It's not common to see caulk against the various components for this reason. What you're seeing is somewhat expected due to stretch in the caulk.

Your siding is a protective and aesthetic covering over a "drain plane", usually a layer of house wrap or similar. This provides the ultimate protection against water infiltration. The drain plane normally includes adhesive or metal flashing to door and window flanges.

By the way, the siding and channel are probably steel. Aluminum isn't often used for siding anymore, as it's fairly soft and more expensive.


Shower drain pipe leaking through floors Top view of drainage pipe

Hi,
It seems that there is a significant leak when the shower is used as I observed a constant stream ofdripping water from the ceiling of the lower floor. Upon removing the filter cap, I see the drainage pipe is not aligned properly with the fiberboard of the shower and there is a big gap between drainage head and drainage pipe, not sure if this is the source of the leak as the area looks dry around it. Could someone recommend how to fix this potential source of leak or is the gap naturally expected?

The drainage pipe outlet is to the right of the hole as can be seen.

Looking at your drain cover and pipe you can see that hair has accumulated around the outside of the pipe. That tells you that the drain cover wasn't properly sealed with plumbers putty or suitable bathroom sealant. In other words, the water is leaking in around the edge perimeter of the drain instead of only flowing into the drain.
The drain pipe itself should be flush up against the shower pan. You indicated the cap thread are long enough to reach the drain. Assuming the drain fitting is threaded screw the cover and pipe back into the drain. Put a bead of plumbers putty or other plumbing sealant under and around the underside of the cover and screw it in.
Be sure to clean it all up before-hand so the sealant will hold.


What is the generic term for kitchen counter laminate without particle board? I'm trying to see if I can buy the laminate that kitchen counters usually have, but without the particle board underside. I'm trying to resurface a desk with something stronger, and it would be easy to simply adhere a strong laminate layer onto the top (plus more decorative options).

I couldn't figure out a way to describe this laminate without it simply being the full counter top product. Does anyone know if there is a specific name for this layer sold separately, or will I have to call around?

Try Formica (brand name) available in homedepot


Can I run a single 12 guage wire outside of 12-2 to provide power to a fan? I have regular 12-2 wire going to a bathroom fan.  Tell me about code issues with just running an extra 12 gauge shielded wire up to the fan so I can do the fan and light separate.  Any restrictions, is it supposed to run with the existing cable... whatever.

If the existing wire is the plastic Romex type then you should plan to run another 12-2 with GND wire up to the fan from the switching location. A single insulated conductor is not going to cut the safety mustard. When you run such wire then just common connect the added Neutral and GND wires into those existing connections within the boxes at each end.

It may actually (in some cases) be easier to simply remove the existing 12-2 connection and replace it with a 12-3 connection.

If your existing wiring is in conduit, flex or other shielded connection scheme according to current jurisdiction requirements then you should be adding the additional or replacement wiring in like form.


No water going to tank at all everything is new above ground I got no water going into the pressure tank on my well but water flows to the house when water is on at the faucet but when you turn off the faucet it doesnt back feed into the tank what can cause this? No water going to tank at all

Check all the piping. There is probably a valve closed somewhere in the system that feeds the tank. If you had someone install this, get them back to check it out. Good luck.


Does it matter which wire goes where on single pole dimmer? I’m updating the switches throughout my house. I have an old rotary style single-pole dimmer controlling the just-as-old chandelier in my dining room. This dimmer shares a double-gang box with a 3-way switch that controls half-hot receptacles in a connecting room. (For context: both switches are on the same circuit but unrelated, as the 3-way switch is the dead end of the 3-way.)

So...back to the dimmer wires. There are two black wire pigtails pre-attached and coming out of the back of the old dimmer. There are no screw terminals. Each black wire is attached to a separate single black wire coming out of the box. The new dimmer I’m replacing it with is a rocker switch with a small slider next to it. The new dimmer can be used in a single-pole/1-way or a 3-way application. (More specifically, Legrand Radiant RHCL453PTC.)

The old rotary dimmer is a no-name brand from 1986 (even though this house was built in ‘96), so any identifyable markings are nonexistent. I know for an ordinary single pole single throw switch, wire placement is typically interchangeable (with the exception to the grounding conductor, obviously). Is this the same for a dimmer switch? How about if the dimmer switch can be used in both a single pole and 3-way application, separately?

Unless the new dimmer is specifically marked with LINE and LOAD or similar, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which screw/pigtail in a simple two wire switch or dimmer.  Since your new switch can be used as a three way, the instructions should say which screw should not be used.

Some electricians will follow a standard of the hot wire going to the top screw and the switched wire going to the bottom, but that's just so they personally know what they did and not a "rule" or "code".

Edit based on comments:

Here is a diagram that I believe is for your dimmer:

They do specifically call out a screw for Line and a screw for "single pole" operation.  Now, the dimmer might work regardless of how you hook up the two black wires, but, they warn than the dimmer needs to be wired this way, so we really should listen to them.

With the old dimmer removed you can separate the two black wires in the box and make sure they are not touching anything then turn the power back on.  Using a voltmeter you can check the voltage between the two exposed black wires and ground or neutral.  The LINE wire will be the one with voltage (~120v).  The wire going to the lamp will be dead.  DO NOT touch any wire until the power is turned back off, or call an electrician if you are not comfortable making this measurement.

Based on the diagram, the wire that had voltage goes to the "common" screw and the wire to the lamp (that had no voltage) goes to the "single pole" screw.


Should I resurface my concrete before laying epoxy on a garage floor? I'd like to lay down epoxy garage flooring. The concrete in my garage is still original (50+ year house) in relatively good shape. Will the epoxy fill in minor (1/8" or so) imperfections which are there from place to place, or should I go ahead and resurface (Flo Coat) the garage floor first?

Of course, I'd clean & etch the top layer concrete first either way before laying down the epoxy.

With the epoxies I have used minor imperfections like small divots from a heavy object chipping the floor are usually filled in. The epoxy can make a very slick surface. For instance, I coated one bay of my shop that I do automotive work in and wanted it like glass so oil spills were easier to clean. This worked great until I spilled some antifreeze. The antifreeze was so slick I could not stand on it until rinsed several times. I ended going back and added another coat with some traction powder. It is still smooth and easy to clean but not as slippery.

The epoxy did fill minor divots where heavy items had chipped the surface.

As a note of caution make sure to get epoxy specifically made for garage flooring. I always use 2 part and have excellent long term results. A friend just used a basic epoxy paint not specifically made for garages and when he brought his truck in and parked it the heat from the tires caused the epoxy to fail under the tires he had spots all around where he parked that the epoxy peeled off. He ended up having the floor shot blasted to remove the epoxy and recoated with a 2 part garage epoxy then had no further problems.


How do I power fluorescent lights hanging from a drop ceiling? Our basement has a high ceiling, and somebody fancied it up with a drop ceiling.

The lighting is the common 4' 2-lamp fluorescent shop lights that are cord-and-plug connected, and hung from the drop ceiling stringers.  The cords go up into a corner of a drop ceiling panel and disappear... above the drop ceiling they plug into receptacles along the joists.  I believe cords above drop ceilings are not allowed.

What's the most expedient way to fix that?  How do I properly connect cord-and-plug connected lights in a drop ceiling?

If the voltage of the fixtures was much lower (say 24V) would that make the wiring scheme OK?

I'm looking at NEC Article 410.62 (1) conditions (1) & (2) Cord Connected Lampholders and Luminaires. It basically says you can't connect up the fluorescents the way you have them. I suggest the best way is to eliminate the receptacles you can use the boxes for junctions since they are accessible. Then use standard wiring practices and connect into the top of the fixture and junction inside the fluorescent.


Need copper to ground electrical box I need to ground my switches by connecting the grounding wires from switches onto an electrical twist nut and pig tailing it it to the box.  Does Home Depot or other stores sell little pieces of copper to complete the pig tail or do I need to buy a big roll of copper?  Does the gauge of the copper matter?

Grounding tails are available (thanks @batsplatsterson), but you could also buy some copper wire; either on a reel or by the foot, and make your own.

As a quick rule of thumb, you should use the same size grounding conductor, as the largest ungrounded (hot) conductor used in that circuit. So you're probably looking at using 14, or 12 AWG wire for switches.

You'll want to use either bare copper, or green insulated wire. Solid or stranded makes no difference, as long as it's the proper size. Some will argue one way or the other about connecting solid to stranded, stranded to stranded, solid to solid, stranded to screw terminals, solid to screw terminals, etc.  In reality, if done properly, it really makes no difference.   Follow the manufacturer's documentation on all the equipment you're using, and you should have no problems.

As for the actual procedure of grounding the switches and box.

Connect a short length of grounding wire to the ground terminal of each switch/device in the box.
Connect a short length of grounding wire to the metal box, using a screw in the threaded hole in the back of the box.
Using an adequate connector, connect together the grounding wire from the box, the switches/devices, and all other grounding conductors in the box.


Australia: Which wire is hot / active and which is neutral? Here's a photo of wires coming out of my ceiling (grey, yellow/green and black) and the wires going into a ceiling lamp (brown and blue).

So in Australia the general colouring codes go like this:

Brown: Active / hot
Blue: Neutral
Green/Yellow: Earth (ground)

I didn't do the wiring in the picture, it was there when I bought the house, but when putting up new lights I want to make sure it's done right.

Obviously this is a sloppy job with the ground wire missing!

My question is: The grey and black coming out of the ceiling, which is active/hot and which is neutral?

For obvious reasons I don't want to invert the phase by switching around hot and neutral.

In Australia and New Zealand, the general rule is that

any wire with green on it has to be earth,
any wire with blue or black on it has to be neutral,
any wire that does NOT have blue, black or green on it has to be phase (hot).

So in this case, the pale grey wire from the ceiling is the phase wire, and it's correct to connect it to the brown wire in the lamp, as shown in your photo.

Also, if the lamp doesn't have any metal parts within normal reach, then it typically won't have an earth connection.  In that case, there's nothing to connect the green/yellow wire from the ceiling to, and it's perfectly correct to leave it unconnected.

I believe the wiring in your photo is correct, and up to code for Australia.  It's not a sloppy job at all - it looks quite professional to me.

Having said that, I am neither a lawyer, nor an electrician,  nor an Australian; so please do not consider this to be normative advice about the Australian electrical code.


Can my rotary hammer act as a hammer drill? The concrete around my window is incredibly hard, too hard for my non-hammer drill.

Somebody at Homebase advised me to buy this rotary hammer, which comes with special bits of 6, 8 and 10mm. He said I can use an adaptor for any smaller bits, forgetting to mention that in this case I cannot use the "hammer function" in this machine.

Indeed, this rotary hammer has 2 functions: drill and hammer. And I need to drill holes 4mm wide. So I need to use the machine's adaptor, and so I'm limited to the "drill" function.

My question is: considering that the "hammer" function is actually the extremely powerful rotary function which is only compatible with the special bits sold with the machine, does the "drill" function is similar to what a normal hammer drill does?

That's exactly what another Homebase employee said to me this morning, but I doubt it, because the "drill" function produces the exact same result as with my non-hammer drill.

Any second opinion would be welcome. The manual doesn't help at all, the brand doesn't seem to have a website (?). No idea where to ask.

As a remodeling contractor, I've owned both hammer drills and rotary hammers.  The rotary hammers are frequently rated for drilling capacity by the diameter hole it can drill.  Most homeowner chores can be accomplished by 7/8 to 1" capacity.  You can drill larger holes, but at reduced speed.

There are 3 classes of SDS drills.  The widest range of bits are in the "SDS plus" sizes.  SDS max would be overkill.

I have and use an SDS-to-1/2 chuck adapter, which is rated for concrete drilling.  I use it for the smaller sjzes only.

I would recommend getting a 3 function rotary hammer;
 - Drill only
 - Hammer only (useful with SDS chisels) and
 - Hammer + drill (my most used setting)


If we get a timber-framed single-storey extension, can we later (in a few years) add another storey on top? We probably can't afford to get 2 storeys built at the moment but don't want to close off that option for future years (when we may want an extra bedroom). We are thinking of a timber-framed extension for environmental reasons: trying to avoid too much concrete. Thanks.

Can you - yes - with the application of sufficient money, anything is possible.

Will it be cost-effective - probably not. Building, and then destroying a roof is a very expensive proposition. Removing roof framing and replacing it with an additional floor, likewise.

If you wanted to do this in a way that might make fiscal sense, have the frame designed as a two-story frame, but leave the 2nd floor out at first. It will cost somewhat more than a single-story, but it can actually be built out later without costing an absurd amount of money.


Refrigerator fresh food section not cold enough I have an Amana top freezer refrigerator and I recently measured the temperatures.

Manufacturer says 0F for freezer and 40F for fresh food.

So my freezer was -10F and fresh food about 55F

I adjusted the freezer thermostat and now the temperature is correct in the freezer compartment.

But no matter what I try, the lowest temp I get in the fresh food compartment is about 50F but nothing lower, even when I set the fresh food compartment's temp to the lowest.

The air flow appears to be fine (from freezer to fresh food) and there are no obstructions.

So my refrigerator has no problem cooling (it managed to maintain -10F in freezer compartment).

Ideas on what to check?

Seems like an air flow issue. Did you stock up on food for the pandemic?

Recheck the air flow vent between the freezer and refrigerator to be sure it is fully functional. Especially for ice build up

Make sure that there isn't items in the freezer that are in the way of the vent

Make sure that there isn't items in the refrigerator that are in the way of the vent

Make sure that air can flow around in your refrigerator (too much food and items stuffed in there). Remember that warm air will rise and cold air will sink. There must be room for this natural air flow to occur


What could I have done wrong while changing to LED bulbs in my recessed lighting? I have six recessed lights in the kitchen. I bought six new LED bulbs to replace the old incandescents. I had to lower the socket an inch or two along the track in the recessed fixture in order to get the bulbs to fit.

The first two replacements worked fine. When I turned on the switch after swapping in the third, the circuit breaker blew. I turned the breaker back on, and it immediately turned off again. I removed the bulb, and turned the breaker back on. Then I turned the switch back on, and none of the ceiling lights lit. I've now cycled several times through the breaker and switch, and it's definitely not working.

I've removed the sheet-metal cover thing from the recessed lighting fixture, so now I have the light socket itself hanging loose by its wires. All the wires still look firmly connected.

I'm pretty sure electricity is still coming to the circuit, because the switch itself has a very dim light behind it that turns on when the switch is turned off, and when the breaker is turned on but the switch is off, that light still lights up (it turns off when the breaker is thrown).

I'd rather not have a simple light bulb switch wind up with a $200 electrician visit. What could have gone wrong?

ADDITIONAL INFO 1: I'm pretty sure the dimmer switch has failed, but also that it is not the only problem. With the switch connected (on or off), the breaker can turn on and off without any problem. I bypassed the switch entirely by just connecting past it (so the power is always flowing past the switch) and now the breaker pops immediately if I try to turn it on. (note that the first time I tried turning the breaker on with the switch still in the wall, the breaker popped, but now it doesn't. I think I fried the switch by trying to turn on the breaker a few times while it was still connected and shorted.)

So the switch seems dead, but even bypassing it entirely, there's still a short. So somehow I perhaps damaged the socket itself? I borrowed a multimeter from a friend. With the breaker turned off, I switched the multimeter to measure resistance and touched the leads to the input and output contacts on the back of the socket (no light bulb in it). The resistance wasn't zero, but it dropped from infinity down to a few dozen resistance-thingies. So perhaps the socket is damaged as well?

The answer is not a cut and dry one in your case.  The troubleshooting is a process. You will need an understanding of a multiple light parallel circuit. You will also need a proximity type voltage tester and possibly a VOM.

Assuming the voltage feed starts at the switch (not always the case, but normal) you will need to verify input voltage at the line side of the switch with the switch in the off position.  If you have voltage there, turn the switch on and verify voltage on the load side of the switch.  At this point, a VOM is handy to test voltage across the hot and neutral and/or ground.  If this looks good, proceed to the closest light fixture, and with the switch on, test the center hot tab in each fixture with the no-touch tester.  In your case I would think you may not see any voltage based on your question. This could mean that you have an open neutral, an open hot, or at worse, a shorted hot to neutral/ground.

Since there are several possible reasons for your condition, it would take a lot of tutorial to explain every possible scenario.  Assuming you do not see voltage at the fixtures, the basic technique for troubleshooting will be to start at the last known verified voltage point, then follow the wiring and check all connections in the junction boxes. Visually check the bulb sockets for broken or shorted metal tabs. This should be done with the power off at first, looking for obvious loose or disconnected wires, then with the power on using your voltage tester.  Since this condition occurred after you adjusted the height of the sockets in the fixtures, I suspect tension on some wire may have pulled a wire out of a socket base or out of a wirenut in the j-box. Unfortunately, most can/pot lights have a built in j-box attached to the top of the fixture. This necessitates dropping the fixture down below the ceiling to access the j-box, or getting access from above. (attic).

Basically, you are following the circuit looking for an open or short, just like following a hose, looking for a water leak or stoppage.

This is not a hard job, but extreme caution must be taken when testing energized circuits. If you do not have good electrical skills,  the proper test equipment, or a logical understanding of switched paralleled circuits, then this job is better left to a pro.

Maybe one of my buddies here on SE can add a good graphic showing this type of circuit and the test points.  A simple line drawing showing the switch and junction points would be a great edit.


Is there a technique to make a shower mirror fog-free? We want to install a permanent mirror in a new shower, but hope to find a permanent way to prevent it from fogging up.

I have seen gooseneck mirrors that hook up to the showerhead itself so as to run hot water behind the mirror, which supposedly prevents fogging, but I'm wondering if there's a way to do a permanent installation. I'm imagining maybe building in a mirror to the wall of the shower and somehow running the hot water pipes behind it. Would that work? Have you ever seen anything like this? Or is there a better way to get a fog-free mirror experience in the shower?

Yes, install heating cable behind the mirror - it will heat the mirror and water will not condense on the mirror. Heating cable manufacturers even offer some special kits for that - like this one from DEVI.


Why is it taking so long for my A/C to start? When I turn my AC thermostat to cool, I can hear it click but the outside unit does not start and no air blows inside.  Several hours later everything turns on and it works fine.

If it turns off, then it could be hours once again before it will start back up.  For this reason I freeze my house before I let it go out again!

Any idea what may be causing this?  I've had a capacitor go bad before, but the air was still blowing inside while the outside was humming.  With this current issue, nothing seems to start.

Any ideas on what to look into is much appreciated!

This first thing to try is removing the thermostat and shorting the R and G wires. Usually, these are the red and green wires. This should start up the fan in the blower. If that works, try shorting R and Y (usually yellow). This should start up the fan in the blower, and the AC compressor. If all of this happens immediately upon shorting the wires together, then the thermostat is likely failed.

If shorting the wires as described does not immediately bring on the blower or compressor, the problem is probably either bad wiring or a bad relay or control board in your air handler.


Z-Wave Switch Worked and then didn't It's possible that this question is too general to be asked here, but I'm pulling my hair out, so I'm hoping someone can shed some light on the subject.

I installed a Leviton Z-Wave switch in a 2-gang box, using a length of 14-gauge wire to connect into the three neutral wires in a wirenut in the box. The load wraps around the bottom red pole and daisy chains to the other switch. Seems weird, but that's how it was originally.

So I turn on the breaker, everything works fine. I'm a genius. Then, I turn the breaker off again, repack everything into the junction box, screw in the switch, and replace the switchplate.

Breaker on - light doesn't turn on anymore. All the other ones do, and I read current going through it with my voltmeter. So, I unpack everything, everything looks good, fiddle with some wires, turn it on again and nothing.

I put back the original switch and it works fine, so it's not the light. Is it possible I blew out the switch somehow? Is there something else I might be missing? I've replaced lots of switches, but this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.

Smart switches don't like being upside down and backwards

What happened with your smart switch is that you swapped the Line and Load terminals -- it would not surprise me if something is acting goofy, or if the switch is somehow damaged even, as a result of that.  Try connecting the red wire to the Line terminal on a new smart switch with a proper pigtail (instead of the current configuration) and the black wire to the Load terminal -- you wired up the neutral and ground fine, though.

If that doesn't do the trick, I'd make sure nothing is shorting when you stuff it into the backbox -- wrapping the device with electrical tape and ensuring screws are tight helps.


Questions about a fire suppression system breaking I own and live in a condo unit.  There is a fire suppression system that runs between the walls of each unit.  The unit is about 15 years old.

5 years ago, after an extremely cold night, I walked in to find that the water suppression line in the wall had burst.  I had water running out on my ceiling fixtures and havoc vents like someone turned a faucet on. The HOA of our property used their insurance to fix the affected units. A company came out 5 years ago, and not knowing much about water remediation or fire suppression systems, I assumed the vendors did a quality job.

Flash forward to today, I come home to a handwritten note on notebook paper to call property management if there is water in my unit.  I quickly found out that the same line burst, meaning that the vendors from 5 years ago did not fix the insulation properly.  It was not overly cold the evening before (it was barely below freezing compared to two weeks before when the weather was below 0).  The story that I was told was there was a vendor working on the fire suppression line.  He found the regulator on the system was frozen.  He also told me there was no water running in the system,  he then did an air pressure test, then ran water through the system for 5 minutes.  There was a 3 foot crack in the pipe in the system that caused the water to leak out.

So I have a few questions here.  Considering it is a wet system, shouldn’t there have been water in the system at all times?  Considering it was so cold a few weeks before, shouldn’t the pipe have frozen and burst then?  Could an air pressure test cause a large crack in the pipe?  Did the vendor skip any steps or act negligent in any way (if he did an air test and then ran water)?

What questions should I be asking the vendor and property management to get the correct answers?

Also of note, the water reclamation company who is cleaning up my unit this time(a different company from last time), told me that the repair was. It done properly 5 years ago.  They told me that they found mold in my ceiling (which has been removed), that clearly happened back then.  5 years ago my unit was hit much harder, should I order (or ask property management) a mold test?  Should they cover it considering they did not do a proper job 5 years ago?

I apologize that Imay not have all of the answers, or if this is the wrong forum to ask.  I want to get some advice on what to ask the vendor/insurance/property management.

Thanks for all of you help in advance!

Wet fire sprinkler systems are installed where the spaces are heated. Dry fire sprinkler systems are installed where there is no heat, (i.e.: attics, parking garages, etc.)

If your sprinkler system failed “where it passes between condos” then I suspect each condo wall is insulated but not between them. (Code requires a “fire separation” between units and a “sound wall” between units.) This is easily accomplished by building two separate walls. The space between them is generally not heated.

So, the “wet” system that passes from unit to unit is probably going to freeze...the water in the pipes is stagnant (not moving) so easily frozen.

This is a “design error” not a “repair issue” from 5 years ago. Your system needs to be re-designed to account for this error.

The statue of limitations is 10 years in the U.S. for designers. If it’s been less than that I’d contact the architect/engineer that designed the building and sprinkler system. If it’s been longer, I’d notify the HOA they have a problem that will continue...mold is a byproduct that must be corrected. (BTW, if your insurance company finds out mold is an existing condition, they may not cover you...be careful what you tell them. I hate insurance companies...I’ve spent a lifetime arguing with them.)

BTW, “dry” systems have an air compressor that keeps air in the sprinkler lines 24/7. When a sprinkler head detects a fire or an alarm is pulled, the compressor is shut down which allows water to flow through the lines and out the heads. (Do you have a compressor? Was it shut off? The electrical breaker for the compressor should have a lock on it.)

You say there was a 3’ split from 5 years ago just discovered. If so, how could the dry system work?

If your condo burns down, your insurance company could deny the claim if the HOA or maintenance did something to disarm the sprinkler system.

I’d get a consultant to review your system, including taking mold samples. (If I lived there and my son didn’t graduate from Harvard, I’d blame mold and sue the HOA. I’d probably have a case too.)


Splicing together different gauge wire? I'd like to add this PZEM-061 digital multimeter near a 14-50 outlet I'm installing in my garage. It uses a CT sensor for the current and taps into the line for voltage.

How I can safely splice the small gauge wire the meter needs into the larger wire feeding the outlet? I was planning on using 12-18 gauge for the meter, and the outlet is being fed with 6 gauge.

I'd like something that's simple and cost effective, DIYer friendly, and passes inspection. Here's what I've come up with so far:

Tap the meter into the 14-50 outlet directly? When I search about this on EV forums, lots of people seem to be doing this. I don't think that would pass inspection with two wires under one screw, but I agree it would be the easiest. Is there a NEMA 14-50 outlet with load terminals? I haven't seen any in the home stores.
Wire nuts pigtails? Twisting two 6#'s and an 18# seems like it would get difficult or the 18# would get damaged.
Split bolt? Can you splice 3 wires in split bolt? I'm not a fan of the wrapping and box bulk needed to do this, but it seems the most straightforward way. 3-way Polaris blocks would avoid the wrapping, but then there's the different gauge problem.
Distribution block? I'm looking at something like this. Pricey but seems safest. I'm not sure if I can fit that in 4 square deep junction box or if I need to find something bigger. I mean, I could go all the way up to a...
Subpanel? I don't need a subpanel or shutoff there, but I've seen that idea suggested. The cost of the box and extra breakers just for a multi-gauge splice seems overkill.

The meter only draws minimal amps so the small gauge wire is appropriate, and it's rated for 240V. I can wire an inline fuse to the meter if there's a concern of putting such small gauge wire on a 50 amp circuit. I don't expect to to draw more than 0.1A.

How can I finish this project and make me and the inspector happy? Thanks!

There may be some challenges installing the meter you have selected in a code compliant permanent installation.

Regarding the connection of the meter's voltage leads, using #12 - #18 wire:

Tap the terminal screws on the receptacle? This one is a non-starter.  You'll be violating the listing of the device and the bad connection is very likely to cause serious trouble.
Wire nut pigtails?  The manufacturer's documentation for wire nuts will explicitly specify the wire combinations for which it is approved.  There are large wire nuts that work with two #6's and a #12.  I don't think you'll find one rated for two #6's and a #18.  However be advised that making a good splice with a wire nut does take some skill.
Split bolt?  As mentioned in the comments a tap and run split bolt connection is very secure.  Again you'll have to use a split bolt rated for #6 run and #12 tap, and I doubt you'd find one rated for #6 run - #18 tap.  Skinning the #6 and insulating the splice again takes some skill.
Distribution block?  A distribution block or terminal block rated to handle the amperage of the circuit and with terminals rated to accept #6 and #12 conductors will work well and is easy to use.  It will take up some additional space inside the enclosure.  You can even find block rated to handle 65 amps with terminals that handle #6 and #18 wire.  Still, I'd use #12 for other reasons (read on...)

A similar solution mentioned in the comments is a multi-tap connector like the Polaris Insul-tap.  It is like a distribution block but fully insulated so it need not be mounted.

Subpanel?  This is a creative solution, and an exepensive one, it avoids some code issues but may raise others, I'd say that's a whole separate question.

Another creative solution - technically taped solder joints are still permitted in the NEC.  Nobody seriously considers doing this for building wiring any more but I have to say when you come across these in old buildings, they have stood the test of time.  I wouldn't suggest reviving this old method for power wiring.

Another solution would be a crimp on C-tap for #6 run / #12 tap.  This makes an excellent connection, and although it has to be taped like a split bolt, it's easier because it's less lumpy.  Although the C-taps are not expensive, the crimp tool that you use with them is quite expensive.

If you keep the meter voltage leads short - under 18" - and use #12 wire, I believe you can use NEC 210.20(4) Exception #1 (C) to tap the 50A circuit without adding an overcurrent protection device (breaker or fuse) to the meter leads.  The meter would be an individual, non-receptacle outlet.

  Exception No. 1: Tap conductors shall have an ampacity
  suffıcient for the load served. In addition, they shall have an
  ampacity of not less than 15 for circuits rated less than 40
  amperes and not less than 20 for circuits rated at 40 or 50
  amperes and only where these tap conductors supply any of
  the following loads:

  (a) Individual lampholders or luminaires with taps extending
  not longer than 450 mm (18 in.) beyond any portion
  of the lampholder or luminaire.

  (b) A luminaire having tap conductors as provided in
  410.117.

  (c) Individual outlets, other than receptacle outlets,
  with taps not over 450 mm (18 in.) long.

  (d) Infrared lamp industrial heating appliances.

  (e) Nonheating leads of deicing and snow-melting
  cables and mats.

Another exception

  Exception No. 2: Fixture wires and flexible cords shall be
  permitted to be smaller than 14 AWG as permitted by
  240.5.

might allow you to install a second 14-50 receptacle, and make up a flexible cord and plug for the meter voltage leads.  I don't like this idea, but it might be code compliant.

Taking a step back, I might be a bit concerned that the meter in your link is listed and suitable for permanent installation.


Two white, two black, two ground, and red wire in ceiling box connected to switch I'm trying to finish installing a receptacle in my ceiling started by an electrician. All the wiring is ready, but I just need to connect the outlet. The receptacle is between two can lights in the ceiling, the furthest from the switch doesn't currently work, but I think I know why. Here's what the setup is:

In the one box, there are two sets of cables coming in. From the switch (left) side, there's one white wire (LW), black wire (LB), ground wire (LG), and one red wire (LR). From the other side, there's a black wire (RB), white wire (RW), and ground wire(RG). The light to the switch side will switch on correctly, but the light on the side where the other wires are coming from will not. I also want the socket between the two to be on all the time (or at least one outlet to be working all the time). The wires are connected with pigtails as follows:

LR + RB

LW + RW

LG + RG

LB

And from the ground wire there is another exposed ground wire coming from the pigtail, and there is another short white wire that I believe was connected to the white pigtails, but fell out when I grabbed the wires initially. The short white wire hasn't been stripped on the end, and neither has the black wire on the switch side.

I assume the correct configuration is to strip the left black and pigtailed white wire and plug those into the receptacle, along with the pigtailed ground wire, and then plug whatever I need to into the one active outlet. I assume the red wire is connected to the right black wire in order to pass it power when the switch is flipped, but not to control the receptacle, as it should be on all the time. From checking the wires, the left black wire (the one that hasn't been stripped) is hot all the time when the breaker is on, but the other black wire is not (I assume because it needs the red wire to give it power).

So I'm wondering if I'm allowed to pigtail those three white wires together, and then plug that into the receptacle, and if my other assumptions are correct before going forward. I don't have any experience with this, so I'd like to get a second opinion before I start plugging stuff in.

From your photo, it's clear the electrician left you a handy little gift -- those third white and bare wires are pre-installed pigtails.  With the power to the circuit off of course, simply strip the white pigtail and the unstripped black wire and hook up your receptacle (free black wire to brass screw, white pigtail wire to silver screw, bare pigtail to green screw).


Does lowering the regulator setting of fan minimize electricity usage We have ceiling fans with "regulators" that allow us to control the speed of the fan, so does reducing speed of the fan translate into power savings rather than heat dissipation in the control element?

In general, yes slower speeds use less power.  The fan motors typically are synchronous AC motors and use different windings or capacitors on the motor to create different speeds.  There isn't a "dimmer" circuit or resistor speed control when you use the pull chain switch.

If you try to use a dimmer switch instead to change the speed that isn't designed for fans the quality of the power (power factor) can drop which can lead to additional inefficiencies.


2 cables in same conduit I am needing to run 2 underground 12/2 UB (gray wire) cables for a 20 amp pool pump and a 20 amp gfci socket. Can I run both cables through a single, buried 3/4” schedule 40 conduit?

Overstuffed and undergrounded
Your first problem is that a pair of 12/2 UF lines simply won't fit in a ¾" schedule 40 PVC conduit.  Encore Wire's UF specsheet says that their 12/2 cable is 0.195" by 0.415", or 4.95 by 10.5 mm when converted to metric.  However, NEC Chapter 9 Note 9 says that we need to use the width of the cable as our diameter when computing fill for non-round jacketed cables, which means that one of our 12/2 cables takes up 87.3mm² of fill:

(9) A multiconductor cable, optical fiber cable, or flexible
cord of two or more conductors shall be treated as a
single conductor for calculating percentage conduit or
tubing fill area. For cables that have elliptical cross
sections, the cross-sectional area calculation shall be
based on using the major diameter of the ellipse as a
circle diameter. Assemblies of single insulated conductors without an overall covering shall not be considered
a cable when determining conduit or tubing fill area.
The conduit or tubing fill for the assemblies shall be
calculated based upon the individual conductors.

Given that a Schedule 40 PVC conduit only supples 131mm² of usable fill area at 40% fill, your conduit is quite clearly overstuffed, even if you're permitted to use a 40% fill factor, as pulling two cables thru a conduit might be treated as the same as 2 wires, which forces you to a 31% fill factor instead.
Worse yet, upsizing the conduit won't save you, because the pool pump area itself is considered to be a "corrosive environment" by NEC 680.14(A):

680.14 Corrosive Environment.
(A) General. Areas where pool sanitation chemicals are
stored, as well as areas with circulation pumps, automatic chlorinators, filters, open areas under decks adjacent to or abutting
the pool structure, and similar locations shall be considered to
be a corrosive environment. The air in such areas shall be
considered to be laden with acid, chlorine, and bromine
vapors, or any combination of acid, chlorine, or bromine
vapors, and any liquids or condensation in those areas shall be
considered to be laden with acids, chlorine, and bromine
vapors, or any combination of acid, chlorine, or bromine
vapors.

Assuming this is a permanently installed pool, this then combines with the pool pump motor wiring requirements in NEC 680.21(A)(1) to forbid the use of UF cable, with its bare copper grounding conductor, for wiring in the vicinity of the pump:

680.21 Motors.
(A) Wiring Methods. The wiring to a pool motor shall comply
with (A)(1) unless modified for specific circumstances by
(A)(2), (A)(3), (A)(4), or (A)(5).
(1) General. Wiring methods installed in the corrosive environment described in 680.14 shall comply with 680.14(B) or
shall be type MC cable listed for that location. Wiring methods
installed in these locations shall contain an insulated copper
equipment grounding conductor sized in accordance with
Table 250.122 but not smaller than 12 AWG.
Where installed in noncorrosive environments, branch
circuits shall comply with the general requirements in Chapter 3.

As a result, you're simply better off pulling individual insulated 12AWG THHN conductors (two black hots, two white neutrals, and a green insulated ground) through your conduit.  This handily fits in your ¾" PVC, using up a mere 42.91mm² of fill, and provides the insulated grounding conductor required by the NEC for that corrosive-area situation.


Removing stuck faucet handle Any Suggestions for how to remove a stuck faucet handle? I have removed the setscrew and pulled hard upwards and the handle, but it won’t come off. I sprayed WD-40, but no luck. I’m just not sure how hard to force this off or if there something I’m missing?

If there is a set screw that holds it to the stem it is very likely (but not 100% certain) that it pulls directly off. You have soaked it with some penetrating lube, now try gently tapping it from various angles to loosen it prior to re-attempting to pull it off.

If this does not work, purchase (or fabricate) a "faucet handle puller". They exist because your problem is fairly common:


Ceiling Fan Loose Wires Our ceiling fan's pull cord broke off into the mechanism that controls off to speed 3. When trying to get to the remaining beaded cord, the actual mechanism broke. Now we have loose exposed wires. What are my options to just protect the now loose wires from touch metal or other wires. Do I need wire caps? Is there any quick solution to leave it as is safely for now?  Thanks.

Brown, Purple, Grey, Black are exposed.

If you're just wanting to prevent shorts until you get it properly fixed, you could wrap each individual bare wire end with electrical tape.

If you're looking to repair it, there should be wire nuts in the fan housing somewhere that fell off. Reinstall those, wiring matching wire colors together. If there are mismatched colors, post a pic & someone will guide you.


Copper water water line is out of round slightly Copper pipe water line is out of round....can I still use a compression fitting valve and just add some teflon tape at the compression nut to ring seat fit.  it is slightly oval.  I noticed a slight wetness just behind compression fitting.  I think I can reset it with a little Teflon placed over the ring setting where the nut stresses down on it.

I do not think that teflon tape will help with an out of round tube in a compression fitting. My first thought would be to try to restore the tube to roundness by proper use of Vise-Grips with a rag to prevent scoring of the sealing ring. There is a die clamp device designed for gripping tubing to make a flare in the end. This die might be used to restore the tubing to roundness. You might have to remove the ring seal and put on a new one after truing the end of the tubing.

But be prepared to cut off the out of round end and join a fresh piece of good tubing.


Is the neutral outside of the plug dangerous while carrying current? I accidentally bought bulbs that has too long of a stem for my bathroom vanity. It also has a very larger upper region that makes it very touchable. How dangerous is this metal area that is exposed when the power is on? Is this safe to use?

First of all, you cannot be sure that the stem is connected to the neutral wire and not to the live one unless you test it with a testing screwdriver, since alternating current is bidirectional.

Even if we consider it to be the neutral one you cannot trust that it is safe to touch. In ideal circumstances, where the neutral wire is very well grounded, it shouldn't have an electric potential. However, if there is any problem with the wiring or grounding, now or in the future, it could be dangerous, if touched.

I would suggest to cover it with some insulating tape.


How do you fireblock a huge cavity in the middle of a house? Looking for an inventive way to fireblock in an unfinished part of a basement right under an upstairs tub (regular cast iron).
I won't bother with a picture because too much going on.   But the "hole" is a ~18"x18" square that includes the tub drain, part of the tub, and the interior wall it is attached to (guessing this is what got it dinged).
Underneath it... wow... main stack, every water run in the house, electrical, the main I beam... and under that is a walkin closet.   So there is (bottom to top) a walkin closet then a mess of stuff above it in a cavity then the hole to the tub.
Cannot really put anything on the adjoining walls due to the mess of pipes, almost zero wood to secure it (pipes are that close) and electrical...  This is the first time in 20+ years I have been flagged for a firestop in the middle of a house!
Suggestions, questions, creativity needed or I am going to have to build a big box and section of a ceiling to cover this area...
Let's complicate matter even more... the square I need to fireblock... it is basically out of reach.   No tool will get in between the pipes and there is a solid 2 feet of cavity - emptiness from bottom of pipes to the square.
Note: Was explicitly asked not to use spray foam by inspector.

I was surprised that any fire blocking is required in single family residences. I had to look it up.
Section R602.8 requires it for “all concealed draft openings (both vertically and horizontally), to form effective barrier between stories, and between top story and roof space.” Also required at “openings around vents, pipes, and ducts at ceiling and floor level.
Approved materials are in Section 602.8.1 and includes: 1) 2” nominal lumber, 2) 2 layers of 1” nominal lumber with lap joints staggered, 3) 23/32” structural panels (plywood), 4) or 3/4” particle board, 5) 1/2” gypsum board, 6) 1/4” cement board, 7) batts or blankets of mineral or fiberglass is approved for compliance with the 10’ horizontal fire-blocking in walls constructed using rows of studs, but must be held in place. “
Also, Section R602.8.1.1 says “unfaced fiberglass batt insulation shall fill the entire cross section of the wall cavity to a minimum height of 16” measured vertically. When piping is encountered the insulation shall be tightly packed around the obstruction.”


What different types of remotely controlled light switches exist? I am looking to buy a remotely controlled light switch. What options are there? I do not want companies or brands or models or whatever. I am looking to buy light switches from which I can build my own personal controlling system. What types exist? Which are wired and which are wireless?

EDIT, with more info on what I mean
When I said I don't want brands or models I mean I do not people to my shopping. If you have an answer that also includes a brand or model it's ok. I put that part in my question so as to prevent brand-only answers. Now for the usage. For now I am trying to create a wall panel that will control the lights of my house, either wirelessly or wired, I do not know. In the future it might lead to home automation. But for now I just need to control them remotely. I just do not know from where to start.

I've seen every type of "home automation light switch" system, but they all require some sort of "hub" by a company. Some communicate wirelessly and others do not. They also have varying levels of security.

If you are still against a hub, there is one more option you have:

Solid state relays. You can wire them inline before all your lights, then put an arduino with it. Example: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-Relay-Box/?ALLSTEPS

However you will not have physical switches any more- you will need to replace them all with some sort of momentary switch which ties into the arduino and relays.


How do I calculate the takeoff for a 45 degree elbow joint? I'm trying to install a 45° elbow joint in PVC. I've found several suggestions online, but frankly, they are incomprehensible to me and seem contradictory of one another:

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_fiqure_takeoff_for_45_degree_elbow
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_take_off_measurements_for_45_degree_pipe_fittings
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_calculate_a_45_degree_elbow_center

Is there a straightforward way to calculate the takeoff?

First, a definition of "take off":
The length of pipe to be removed (taken off) such that a pipe and a fitting make a specific length.  The term is a concept shorthand used by pipefitters and plumbers.  This is not the same as a material takeoff, which is a list of all materials needed for a project.

Take-offs in general are specific to pipe construction (PVC, copper, etc.) and is a function of diameter.

As suggested by bcworkz, tables for a given diameter and style of pipe are the best method for an accurate measurement.

The formula (listed in your link) .625 x pipe size (don't use the 25.4 factor, unless you are using millimeters) should give you a ballpark for a 45 fitting.


Provisioning for a hypothetical electric car I'm doing a remodel on my house which involves building a new garage.  I have no plans to get a new car soon but presumably will in 1-5 years.  How should I wire for an undetermined electric vehicle (Leaf? Tesla?).  What current should I wire for?  What gauge?  Should it be an independent circuit?  What receptacle?  Any other advice?

Follow up question:
I realized I have a 50A 240V run to behind my stove which I capped and put a blank on when I remodeled the kitchen and switched to a gas range.   This appears to be 6/3 (+ ground) and has a 50A breaker-pair.   So if I splice to a new 6/3 cable and run that to an empty box at the front of the garage, does that seem like a good (and up-to-code) plan?

See SAE J1772

  In the 2009 standard, two charging levels are defined.

            Voltage  Phase          Peak current
AC Level 1  120 V    Single phase   16 A
AC Level 2  240 V    Split phase    32 A (2001)
                                    80 A (2009)

Nissan say

  Most Nissan LEAF owners recharge their cars at home. The 6.6kW charger option lets you charge your Nissan LEAF at home in just 4 hours using a 32A Home Charging Unit

For that option you'd need a dedicated 240 volt 32 amp circuit.

Until you actually have an electric car it may be best to leave that circuit terminated in a junction box of some sort and leave the fitting of a charging-unit until later. You probably shouldn't fit a regular 240 V 32A outlet because the J1772 system requires some intelligence be built in to the supply side (the charging unit).

In some countries the government will pay you up to $1600 to have a charging point fitted in your garage. If you live in such a country, it might be worthwhile taking advantage of such offers whilst they are still available.


why is my residential cold water in pressure reducer valve corroding like a battery terminal? my pressure reducer valve to my appartment is corroding on the outside like the build up you get on an automobile batery? is this any indication that the water is toxic? what would cause this? improberly installed electrical ground? no dielectric fiting at my hotwater tank? hard water? is my electricity to the apartment rickling down the drain?
the other 3 pressure reducer valves in line with mine are all fine only mine is corroding.

That could be galvanic corrosion, what metals are involved?

But if the others are fine and are made of the same metal, then it could just be a simple leak.

Maybe post a photo.


What's an efficient way to soundproof the space between my door frame and wall frame? I am going to be creating my first soundproof door assembly.  I have my idea down for the frame and door itself, but the problem is going to be that empty space between the door assembly and framing of the wall.

A few ideas I've had:

Get some MLV (mass-loaded vinyl) and backer rods.  Wrap the backer rods with MLV and stuff them into the cavity.  The rod will allow for compression which would give a tight fit.
Sand.  This may sound insane, but I figure I could create a custom casing that I could slide into the cavity, after which I would pour sand into it from the top.  The casing would eventually fill up and expand to fill the cavity.  The only thing I might have to worry about is settling which would require it to be refilled a bit at the top, but perhaps there's a type of heavy sand that wouldn't settle.
Green Glue.  Using my MLV/backer rod method, an idea came to me to create an actual sheet of Green Glue which would serve the purpose of the MLV.  Basically, I would get some heavy-duty plastic, spread GG liberally out all over it, then put another layer of plastic over the top.  If I gage the thickness with something that's about 1/8" like some thin dowel rods running along the length of the inside and then setting something heavy on top to flatten it out and disperse the glue, I think I can get a consistently level sheet of GG compound.  GG thickens up after a few days, so I wouldn't have to worry too much about any of it squishing out all over the place.
Safe 'n Sound insulation stuffed liberally into cavity.

Since my door is going to consist of a layer of plywood, GG, cement board, GG, and plywood all in that order, I am sure it's going to have a fairly high STC.  Therefore, I'd like to make sure I get the edges around the door really well even if it means the edge has an aburdly high STC in comparison to the wall and door assembly themselves.

Noiseproofing, as you know, is best assisted by decoupling dense masses.

I am going to presume that your walls are framed thicker than standard 2x4 (as staggered 6 is a very common technique)

In this case, you have a pretty wide cap to fill in the shimmed jamb.

I would shove fiberglass into the cavity, or spray in foam, making sure not to overfill!

Then I would lay in greenglue (or their gap-filling material), then I would lay in the backer rod. Finally, one more application of the gap-filling material before setting the casing.

Here is a video of a door company demonstrating the install:
http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/acoustic_doors/soundproof_doors.htm


Water softener with a 2 inch main line I am looking to install a water softener for my home. The main line into the home is 2 inch which branches off to 1 inch eventually for hot and cold water and then to the fixtures. My question is, if I get a 1 inch water softener installed at the main line, how much pressure loss am i going to see? The softened water would now go  back into a 2 inch pipe which will again get distributed to 1 inch pipes.

2" inlet water softeners aren't commonly available, so they'll probably be expensive. Install a 1.25" or 1.5" inlet water softener and you'll be fine for a typical 3 story 6-8 person household.


How to fix unevenly stained maple wood vanity? My bathroom vanity was not properly stained. It is not even. The edges are still showing the original light maple color. There are paint-like drips everywhere. I doubt that it has been sealed because it feels rough.

What would be the best way to fix this without buying a whole new vanity? My original plan was going for IKEA style dark chocolate and still be able to see a little bit of the grain. The chocolate wood in the following photo illustrates my goal.

Edit: I found the stain in the shed that is most likely to be used by the previous guy:

There are several stain-like finishes for wood:

Penetrating stain - can only be used on unfinished wood. Several coats can be used to even the tone and make it slightly darker. Once the wood has a finish coat, it will only sit on the surface, and usually looks bad. (Most are solvent based, but there are also water based stains)
Varnish/poly stain - this is stain mixed with a finish coat, such as varnish or polyurethane. It mostly sits on the surface and can be darkened somewhat by adding more coats.
Pigmented stains - these are mostly used outdoors on decks and outdoor furniture. They are more like thinned down paint than true stains. The penetrate slightly, but mostly sit on the surface. They are not especially well suited to indoor furniture.
Colored glazes - these are somewhere between paints and stains, with a thick body that can be brushed or wiped on, then partially removed to give a glaze, a partially transparent color and finish. Often used to give an antique look. Often they are rubbed off at edges to let contrasting under layers show through.

Your furniture looks like it may have been done with varnish/poly stain. If this is so, more stain will not penetrate. If you sand off the excess, there will still be some areas that are effectively sealed because of the finish part of the coating. You might be able to add more of the same and get a more even coating. However, you may need to sand most of it off and effectively start again.

Surface stains are more prone to have lighter edges because they do not penetrate, and as you brush them out, very little stain and color is left on the edge.

When you say see a little bit of the grain do you mean texture or color variations. If texture, you are talking about a thinned paint-like finish, a type of glaze, rather than a true stain. Your cabinets are made of wood that has very little surface texture. if you mean slight color variations, either penetrating stain or varnish/poly stain can do this if carefully applied.


Single phase vs three phase commercial air-conditioning I have a building in which I am going to replace 9 3ton units. There is 3 phase in now but my tech suggests single phase. My clients pay for their own electricity. These machines have been in service since 1989. The cost of the single phase is about 700.00 a unit less. With today's efficient single phase will the client notice a drop in their electric bill with same use? Also will the longevity be the same? My tech also says that repairs down the road will be cheaper with single phase. Both machines are for commercial use.

3-phase is slightly more efficient, but not nearly that much for units like this.

3 ton is a very small unit for central air. It is HIGHLY doubtful you (or a tenant) will see any noticeable difference in their bills.

Considering the dramatic difference in cost ($700 less), it's a no-brainer to go with the single phase units.


Solar powered thermal ballast - is it feasible? My living room gets plenty of sun from big, west facing windows. As the cold weather is approaching, I wanted to make a device that leveraged this exposure to sunlight to store some energy and slowly release it through the night.

The initial idea was to have a solar panel, battery for electrical energy buffer, some sort of aquarium heater, and a water tank.

Water would be heated by the aquarium heater, which would be powered by the solar panel and battery through the night (as long as the battery lasts). This setup would slowly release the water's heat to the living room.

Will this be more efficient than having just a water tank painted black next to the window? The sun would heat it pretty well during the day, and the solar panel+battery+heater might not be much more efficient, if at all.

Any dark colored mass would become a passive solar heater for when the sun goes away and the room begins to cool. The mass could be as simple as concrete blocks, tiles or as costly as eutectic tube solutions. Years ago,I was interested in solar systems  (I was years ahead in my imagination and thinking), and these were common ideas that were studied and written about. Before you give your brain an overload go to the local book store or library and read and study books on passive solar ideas. You will be amazed at the ideas people had to gather solar energy and use it at a later time. "Hope this helps".


Wiring a stove top infinite switch I have an older model Frigidaire stove infinite switch is unplugged, the infinite switch has 4 prongs 3 on one side 2 on the other I need to know where the power negative and ground wires go and where the stove element negative and positive plugs in on the infinite switch.

I have searched everywhere and  I cannot find out where the wires go to an infinite switch I can just find out how to test it.

If your switch has the labels still on it, specifically H1, H2, L1, L2 and P, then you can use this:

Source: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/21420/operation-of-infinite-switch


What is this cable in my yard, why is it exposed, and what can I do about it? UPDATE 5/25 - The electric company spliced and re-buried the cables. It's a 120V line and should have been buried at least a foot below ground. They'll come by again to locate the rest of the line leading up to our electrical box and trench it deeper if it's too shallow. I added a photo of the progress so far.
Usually I'm pretty careful when I mow, but last time I got careless and accidentally hit this exposed cable with the mower.
I'm not sure what this is for or why it's exposed in the first place, but it's pretty close to the green electrical pillar outside our house. The outside sheathing is rubber and and the inside looks like a twisted steel cable with a bit of PVC pipe.
Any idea what this is or what I can do to bury it? Do I need to get our utilities/electric company involved?

UPDATE - Spliced and buried.

That is a Homac 600V rated splice so it's probably part of your electric service. I would be calling the power company right now and report a dig in to an exposed  service or secondary lateral.
Stay away from it until the power company inspects it. It could be an abandoned line but you want to assume it's hot. It looks like a ground rod has been driven close by so maybe some old facilities have been relocated.


What is the "skin type" on a door? Is a door with Silicone Finish "skin type" easily paintable? I'm looking at purchasing a few pre-hung interior doors for my basement. The doors say that their "skin type" is Silicone Finish. What is the "skin type" on a door? Is a door with Silicone Finish "skin type" easily paintable?

See what I'm talking about in the Specifications.

Many common interior doors in the US are hollow. There is a wood frame, with a thin layer on each side which is the "door skin".  The door may be painted, or stained to let the wood grain show.

Doors that aren't hollow, often known as "solid-core" doors, may have a thin wood veneer layer of better wood on the surface, which also might be called the door skin.

The "finish" will refer to how it is painted or sealed.  Finish can sometimes describe just the appearance of how shiny it is (flat/matte, satin, semi-gloss or gloss finish) or the material or chemicals used for the finish (painted, stained, varnished, or laquered finish).

Stain brings out the natural coloring of the wood but doesn't protect it; it needs a sealer.  The sealer over the stain is often referred to as "varnish", but there are many different chemical compounds that may be used.

In this case, the silicone finish is referring to the type of sealer over the stain.  Probably something similar to Cabot waterproofing sealer.

You will NOT have good results in painting over this finish.  Silicone definitely repels other substances.

For a door that you intend to paint, look for something either "unfinished" or "primed".  Unfinished means is just the raw wood with no paint, stain, or sealer.  Primed means it has a base coat of paint primer for protection of the wood during shipping, and it is ready for you to finish painting it.  All other things being equal, go for "primed" over "unfinished" if you are going to paint it, because the primer gives you a head start.


Help with a new bathroom light/fan fixture So I first I had a dual switch that stopped working a while back. The old switch was different than the new one, I honestly can't remember now the difference. However, when I wired it the fan would run constantly so I disconnected the fan plug. I finally realized I had put one of the hots on the wrong side. Never checked to see if fan worked right now as I already took the old one down. Fast forward to today and with a black going to the blue in the new light and black going to black for the fan with all whites tied together, I only get either the fan working or just the light when I switch them. No idea what I'm doing wrong. It did originally work right when I bought the house. Any help would be great, thanks in advance. Here's some pics.

Without all details or photos, you need 2 wire on each side of your switch or a single wire with jumper on your line in side, then 2 (2 black or 1 black and 1 red) wires from the load side. Whites all together. At your fan, you need white and ground and the 2 other wires. From load, 1 wire goes to fan black/blue/red whatever color, and the other load side goes to the light. Here, tie all whites together too. Here is a sample drawing I found:


Trane air handler twe036c140a0 create “c” wire Trane Air Handler twe036c140a0 Create "C" Wire
Can someone please tell me the best way to Create a "C" Wire for a Honeywell WiFi thermostat (model rth9585wf).

Based on this diagram of the control page 4 https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/Wvfan79/2012-07-13_122319_twe036-sf-1d.pdf the "c" source is the blue wire leaving the transformer, which becomes terminal 6 at the low voltage terminal block.

If that diagram doesn't reflect your model or current control board then you would need to identify the two 24v leads from the transformer, one should attach to a fuse, the other should be the C source.


What is this device in my basement? I bought a house recently. Some of the wiring, particularly in the basement, while not obviously unsafe, is... inspired.
On the side of a junction box in the basement, there's a device with two thin wires coming off of it, going up into a hole. I believe, but don't know for sure, that above the hole is an exterior wall, but there's nothing on that wall that would use such thin wires - just switches and outlets, which I'd hope are fed from the thicker cables also going through that hole.
So what is this thing?

Looks like a doorbell transformer. Prolly output is 24 V ac from input 120 V ac in the metal box.


How do I improve the soundproofing between two rooms? I wamt to improve the soundproofing of a wall shared by 2 rooms. At the moment, I can hear the TV, conversations, etc, from my brother's room. The TV and conversations are extremely clear; I can make out exactly what's being said which is annoying and distracting when trying to sleep.

Some things to be aware of:

We live in a maisonette inside a block of flats (UK style).
We don't own the property but the rules about home improvements are fairly liberal as it's an ex-council property.
If anyone has any experience of getting landlords to do this kind of work, that'd be excellent (landlord is a housing association).
Knocking down and rebuilding the wall with soundproofing is not an option

I saw a YouTube video about making holes in the wall and then filling it with insulation, but don't remember what that technique is and can't find the video anymore

Any ideas would be welcome

You could cut some holes in the drywall and use some blow in insulation. Something like dense-pack cellulose.

What helps even more is to then glue another layer of drywall with something like green glue.


Filling up toilet bowl after flush to save water My toilet fill valve was starting to act funny so I thought I would replace both the fill valve and the flapper since they are relatively inexpensive.  I bought these two:

Fluidmaster 400ARHR High Performance Toilet Fill Valve
Fluidmaster 502P21 Universal Flapper

They each have an adjustment to conserve water.

The fill valve has a roller clamp on the refill tube that goes down the overflow pipe:

When this was all the way open, there was a high pressure jet of water going down the overflow pipe, which seems like a waste of water.  I cranked this down so that it is now weak stream of water.

The flapper has this thing you can rotate to adjust the volume of the flush. It seems to basically adjust the amount of time the flapper is open:

I'm probably overthinking this, but how should adjust these two things together to get good flushing performance and not waste water?

This is a trial and error adjustment. Less water flow means less washing of the bowl for any residue. But bowls vary greatly in shape and volume that also affect their washing characteristics.

Start with extreme limiting and see how it works. Then increase flow if needed. You may want to change only one at a time


Use external switch to control blower fan on furnace We have a modern furnace with an old thermostat that controls heat and has a wire pair traveling to the furnace's control board. I'd like to wire up a local light switch by the furnace to manually turn on the blower fan to do some extra filtration of the air in the interior of the home.

Here's the current wiring feeding down into the PCB input terminals

Could such a function be achieved by running a wire from the G terminal through to a light switch, followed by a second wire from the switch to one of the terminal clamps (COM, W, Y, or R) shown above? Which one would I connect to and why, and would this external wireup potentially damage or confuse the thermostat during its normal operation?

My understanding is that the G terminal is dedicated to controlling the blower fan. Also for those modern thermostats that can manage 4 wires what are they doing exactly in terms of these terminals and the closing of certain circuits and what not? Does it essentially connect G to R or Y or something to that effect? Does it become a conditional jumper between these terminals?

Connect the switch from R to G

Wiring a standard light switch between R and G will do what you want -- the switch will perform the exact same function as the fan switch on a thermostat in gas mode.  Namely, you'll be able to run the fan without heat by turning the light switch on, but the furnace will run the fan on its own when heat is called for, using its internal fan-thermostat.


Testing GFCI Outlet with a switch How to test GFCI outlet with a Switch to determine if it is working?

There are some jury-rigged ways to test it - essentially building a small device that will route a limited amount of power to the ground wire. But if you aren't 100% sure of what you are doing, that is a bit risky. The simple solution is a 3-light GFCI tester which you can use for routine receptacle testing as well as GFCI.


How do I attach a wooden post to existing concrete steps? Background
At the front of my house I have concrete steps leading up to the porch. Having just rebuilt the porch, I've discovered that they are actually concrete veneer over brick. It appears that the concrete is roughly 2-3" thick.
What I want
I'd like to add a hand rail to the steps since there's never been one there. We want to use 4x4 posts and will install an angled wooden railing between the posts to match the railing we'll be installing around the porch.
What I tried
To anchor the 4x4 pressure treated posts to the steps, I attempted to use this 4x4 U-bracket:
All images from Lowes.com unless otherwise noted.
I bolted it to the steps with a 1/4" x 3-3/4" Tapcon screw through each of the 4 smaller holes in the bottom:

As I was drilling the holes, I got a bit of red debris coming out of the holes, so I believe I hit brick under all of them.
Screwing the Tapcons in, a couple of them refused to go all the way in with my impact driver. Thinking "all I need is a bigger hammer!" I put the 5/16" socket on my 1/4" drive ratchet handle and gave it a couple of gentle tugs until the bolt turned. Unfortunately, I put more torque on it with a short ratchet than the bolts were designed for and sheared 2 of them in their holes. I replaced the sheared bolts with shorter (2 1/2") Tapcons. I got all 4 Tapcons fully seated against the metal bracket, dropped the post in place, squared it up and nailed it in with 8 joist hanger nails. Unfortunately, the post wobbles.
It appears that this isn't the ideal method for securing a wooden post to existing concrete over brick steps.
What I don't want to do
Obviously, I have no desire to break up the perfectly functional concrete steps to repour them with a couple of cast-in-place bases, even though that would probably be the ideal solution.
What I'm thinking is the next step
Would I be able to use this cast in place base:

By drilling a large hole for the center bolt and using an expanding fastener like this:

Note: I don't think I'd need a 6" length, that's just the largest diameter one I could find a picture of. I don't know the diameter of the center hole of the bracket, but I would find a suitable size anchor and an extra washer for under the bolt if necessary.
A possible alternate method
Would it be possible/reasonable to attach the posts to the side of the steps by drilling through the 4x4 posts and running long bolts through them and into the side of the step? What kind of anchor could I use that would be long enough to do that? Does anyone make a bracket that would wrap around the post so that I can attach the bracket to the concrete with "normal" length fasteners then attach the bracket to the post with wood screws/lag bolts/joist hanger nails (thinking a bracket like this)?
Bracket in red with concrete anchors in blue and lags in orange. Source: Me! Copyright: Seriously? You want to use my MS Paint drawing? Sure, what the heck. Go for it.
The ultimate question
What should I do to attach my 4x4 posts to my existing concrete steps?

I think you just about answered your own question.

I would attach the posts directly to the sides of the steps, with the posts extending down as far as possible.  This will get you more bearing surface between the posts and the steps, and allow for more anchors in the masonry spaced further apart.  This will make all the difference.  I think the sheet metal mounts will always be prone to wobble.

The expanding sleeve anchors in your question are probably as good as anything for this, make sure you use long ones, even with 2x4's.  In perfect concrete with a perfect hole, you wouldn't need that much embedment to secure the wood adequately, but this masonry is questionable compression strength and quality, so I'd go for as much embedment as possible.  The 5/8" x  6" pictured in your question is probably just right, you'll have over 4" of embedment and that should be very strong.

I might use 2x4 rather than 4x4 posts.  The thicker the wood, the less embedment of the anchor, and the more it will wobble;  this may be hard to picture, but with a 4x4, the lever arm you have between the head of the fastener and the anchoring in the concrete is doubled.  You're not holding up a deck, just a hand rail, 2x4s are adequate.  You could also shorten the lever by countersinking the nut and washer into the 4x4.

Another way to go would be to double up two 2x4's, with the second 2x4 inside the first, with its butt sitting on the top of the step.  You could get the same effect by rip cutting a half-lap into a 4x4.  This might be the sturdiest of all, since the butt bearing on the top of the step would stiffen things a little more.

By the way, for future reference - when tapcons break like that, it's usually because there's some dust left in the hole from drilling, you can blow it out with canned air or other method.


Proper way to install subfloor in kitchen I am remodeling my kitchen. I removed several layers of flooring.

At the bottom there is some 3/8" ply.  On top of that was tar paper and some 5/8" particle board.

I removed everything but the ply at the bottom due to glued flooring and 18000 staples.

To reassemble it I bought more 5/8" osb and 1/4" tile backer.

Questions:

Do I need to reapply the layer of tar paper between the two wood layers (or some other material)?
Are screws or nails generally recommended for fastening subfloor?
Should the subfloor panels have gaps where they meet or be flush?

We use to specify building paper between the underlayment and subfloor. About 10-15 years ago we stopped. Now, we worry about moisture (vapor) getting trapped between the underlayment and subfloor.

Nail or screw: Either...the key is to drive 100% of the fasteners flush or slightly recessed.  (Be careful the head of the fastener does not "lift" the wood around the head.) Screws hold better (won't back out) but harder to drive flush with top of underlayment. Power-driven nails are fine, but depth will vary due to consistency of compressor. (When the nail-gun is used a lot in a short time, the compressor will be slightly "weaker" and a few nails won't be driven to same depth, until the compressor turns on.) Hand-driven nails are ok, but use ring-shank nails.

Space between sheets of underlayment: Yes, it is recommended....about 1/16" space or less.

Make sure you follow the flooring manufacturer's recommendation when installing your floor covering. Most laminated wood flooring manufacturers recommend a vapor barrier on the underlayment, but read the instructions carefully.


My garage lift only works if the light switch is on! I just moved into a house where I couldn't get the garage door to open until I figured out that the switch on the wall turned the lift AND the light on. And the light has to be on in order for the lift to work. I would like to make that a double switch, or even better set it where the garage lift is always powered. Is this do-able? Simply?

It sounds like they ran power to the motor and light via the light switch instead of directly to the motor which would have a much smaller, separate set of low voltage wires running to the garage door button.  If you flip the light switch the motor and light now have power which then makes the garage door opening button able to do its job.

The only way you can confirm this is by pulling out the light switch off the wall and looking to see how many sets of wires are in the box. I really can't imagine they've somehow split the power to the light and motor for the garage door at the destination though.  If so, then they aren't utilizing that functionality by having one light switch control it all.  This sounds like they wanted to do something cool, didn't think it through very well, did the work and then realized it wasn't going to do what they intended and left it.  Either that or a bad wiring job.

If you're sure this is how it's controlled and there are no other factors involved, and there is one set of wires running to the single gang light switch, then no, you would not be able to split the power to the light and motor without isolating the power to the light alone and then running power to the motor on a new line that would bypass the light switch.  You'd could check the motors docs though, there may be a way to split power at the motor already which would at least make the job a bit easier.  Bathroom fans with built in lights are doing this to make splitting the fan and the light to separate switches much easier now a days.  You just have to run separate *edit (control power wires) to the unit.

In my opinion, I'd remove the switch from the equation completely, and just make that a junction box with a cover and power the door the way it was intended.


Why are there so many different types of screws (phillps/flat/hex/star/etc)? Newbie question.

Why is it that there's a bazillion different types of screws? Why can't we just always use one standard screw type? Are there advantages/disadvantages to the different types? Are there times when one type is preferred over another?

Help me understand why there isn't one screw to rule them all.

Shamelessly ripped off from here, looks like the primary reason why we still have "bad" screws (flat head and Phillips) is that the "better" types of screws are simply more difficult/expensive to manufacture:

  The reason for the different styles is
  cost and torque.

  The slotted head screws are cheap and
  easy to make. But they're completely
  useless for powered screwdrivers and
  you can't put much torque on the screw
  without it either slipping out or
  stripping the head (and maring the
  surface of whatever you're screwing).
  [Mad]

  Phillips screws are self-centering,
  making powered screwdrivers possible.
  They're somewhat more expensive to
  produce than slotted-head. They tend
  to 'cam-out' easily under torque,
  making it hard to apply much torque.
  I've heard they were designed that way
  to prevent overtightning. However,
  it's not good for exposed fasteners to
  look stripped.

  Robertson-head and allen-head
  fasteners can handle more torque than
  phillips-head fasteners, but are more
  expensive. Because the bottom of the
  hole is flat (unlike the pointed end
  of the phillips), there's more contact
  area and so it's less likely to
  cam-out. The robertson-head is cheaper
  than the allen-head, but the
  allen-head has six points of contact
  rather than 4, making it less prone to
  rounding out the hole.

  The Torx-head fasteners solve the
  problem of rounding/stripping by
  having the flat bottom of the
  robertson/allen that reduces cam-out,
  but it has much better contact with
  the driving bit to prevent stripping
  the head. The points of the 'star' on
  the driving bit engage the recesses on
  the screw at nearly right angles, so
  it has a very positive contact. Torx
  is becoming more and more popular
  because of that, particularly in
  assembly-line work.

  Because they're less likely than a
  phillips to be damaged when
  tightening, the allen (internal hex)
  heads are often used for exposed
  ('decorative') fasteners on 'some
  assembly required' furniture. It's
  also very cheap to make the allen
  keys, so they usually include one with
  the fasteners.


Center of the flange 13 1/2" not 10" or 12" what do I do? I just bought toilet to replace old and it is in my moblehome (hasn't been moved ever, is secured to ground) but the center of the hole where toilet was sitting is 13 1/2", is this going to work?

If the center of the flange on the floor is 13-1/2" from the wall where the tank goes and the new toilet is 10" or 12" then that is fine. There will just be a gap behind the toilet. If the toilet was set to 13-1/2" and the flange was at 10" or 12", then that would be a different story.


transition between hardwood plank and molding on stairs I just got hardwood stairs installed. [The installer left a gap between the end of the hardwood plank and the molding and filled it with putty—and it looks terrible.][3]  What can I do to cover that gap? I hate it.

Maybe a stained or painted quarter round or some sort of small fancy, decorative moulding.


What could cause my oven to trip at a certain temperature? I have a (fairly old) Whirlpool fan oven, which turns itself off and trips all of the electrics in the kitchen when the oven reaches a certain temperature (around 150). If we then reset the trip switch and turn the oven down everything works again, and as long as temperature is kept below a certain point the oven stays on. The hob and grill all seem to work fine.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Most likely the fan motor is bad and is factory set to come on at 150... pre-baking temperature.


How do I retrieve a detached plunger from a bathtub drain? I have an old bathtub drain assembly that is similar to this:

As far as I can tell, the linkage broke off completely due to old age. If I unscrew the trip lever and cover, it's not attached to anything and I can't feel anything if I try to reach inside.

I'm reasonably certain that the plunger is down since water doesn't drain from the tub.

Is there an easy way to retrieve the plunger? I've tried using a pickup tool from harbor freight:

This was unsuccessful after 30-40 minutes of trying.  I really don't relish the thought of crawling under the house with our 8-legged friends and dismantling the drain. Any/all suggestions are welcome. =)

Unfortunately, I think you're fixin' to go for a crawl with the crawlies. (At least you have that option -- the same task in my house would require a jackhammer.) There SHOULD be a P-trap below the drain. If you can get the tailpiece off of the bottom of the tub (unscrew the metal drain, then the tailpiece should pop out), you should be able to spear the plug.


Is it OK that my circuit breaker panel does not latch closed I plan on doing some work and having it inspected.
As part of the work I will be switching some normal breakers to AFCI.
Before I get started I notice my panel does not fully latch closed.
The latch appears to be thin sheet metal that has snapped off.

I am wondering if this is a code violation and something I will have to fix.

If so that might really change my plans as I don't see these latches as being sold separately or meant to be replaced.

My town is on the 2011 NEC.
The breaker panel is a 200A GE catalog # TM3020F

You should be able to replace the latch

Try using a GE TDL106 to replace the broken latch on your panel, although it's not a Code violation, simply annoying to have the door on a NEMA 1 (indoor) panel floating loose like that.  (Some smaller panels lack a door, even.)