Would like to add a 14-30 outlet in my garage I am looking to add a 14-30 outlet in my garage. My panel is right where I would add the outlet too.
Just trying to understand my own electrical panel a bit before I go further. Attached are the pictures of my panel and the GE spec sheet.
My understanding is:

Panel supports 200amp
I have 30,30,50 circuit breakers in my top section that is always hot.
My lower section can support max of 100amp breaker but is using a 60amp breaker right now

So I am thinking I could:

Change the 60 amp breaker to 80 or 90 amp breaker
Add a 240/30amp breaker to the lower section
Connect that to a 14-30 outlet

Things I am not sure of:

Can you add double pole breakers to the lower section?
I see a 27 poles maximum, is that in total or just for the lower section?
From the spec sheet, I see 8 poles on each side but on my actual panel, I think I only see 6 being used on each side? So there should still be 2 poles available on each side?

And lastly, I will definitely be getting a professional to do the work but wanted to understand what options I have before hand too. Thanks!

What you have here is called a "split bus panel".   There is no main breaker and as Limo Driver said, it follows the "rule of six" which means it must be possible to cut all power with 6 movements of your hand, you can cut all power with 4, so you're in good shape that way. But the panel is FULL! The 2 "unused" spaces are probably not available because there are connection lugs behind them. A picture of the innards of the panel would be helpful to get better advice.
Also, it's impossible to feed generator power to a panel like this safely unless you get one of those rinky dinky generac transfer switches with individual breakers. The master electricians here prefer a manual interlock on the main breaker so you can power the entire house from the generator, but that's not possible here.
Another consideration would be a sub-panel. You could upgrade the sub-main breaker from 60 to 100 amps, move some circuits to the sub-panel to make room for your 14-30 outlet.  But that's kind of a kludge.  Less expensive than a full panel replacement, but still a kludge.  If it were my house, I'd do a full panel replacement with a 40 space panel.  I also noticed you're in Washington State (me too), and we have our share of wind storms and power outages. So if you do this, you might want to consider  a breaker for the generator and a generator interlock between the generator breaker and the main breaker.


Any concerns with this water softener plan? I'm trying to decide where to place my water softener. I originally planned to put it in the utility closet where city water comes in, but this plan had a variety of issues.

My current plan is to re-route cold water going into my (conventional) water heater so that it goes through the softener first. Is there anything I'm not anticipating with this plan? Is there any reason not to route the supply to the water heater as shown below?

The water softener will be in a laundry room with an easily accessible drain. I plan to run Pex through the ceiling.

It seems like a simple approach, but I'm not a plumber so my weakness is not knowing what I don't know.

The main issue with feeding artificially softened water into a storage hot water heater is that softening water makes the water more conductive.  This isn't a big deal, except for the fact that the protective anode in your water heater tank that keeps it from rusting away into oblivion works harder and faster in more conductive water.  This is because corrosion is an electrochemical reaction, and there is actually a small galvanic current flowing through the hot water in your tank and back to the sacrificial anode through the tank wall -- the more conductive the water, the larger this current, and the faster the "battery" created by the sacrificial anode, water, and tank wall discharges, eating up the anode.

As a result of this, feeding softened water into most stock hot water heaters will cause them to die rather quickly of rust -- the anode goes first, then once the anode's gone, the tank itself proceeds to rust out.  If your tank is so equipped, regular anode changes (you may have to change anodes at half the warranty period or less!) are one way to keep the tank from dying; however, a better solution would be to fit the tank with a powered anode -- this uses wall power to produce a small electric current in the tank that suppresses the corrosion reaction by driving it "backwards" if you will.  (Think of the difference between discharging and charging a battery.)

(I have no affiliation with the Water Heater Rescue folks, btw -- they simply do a good job supporting something most people don't think about, and that's how to treat hot water heaters as something other than a throwaway device.)


Meaning of SA mean in "GFI - SA" electrical panel labeling? I noticed a couple of the handwritten labels on my electrical panel are listed as "GFI - SA". I am curious as to what the "SA" indication means. Note, there are also a few other "GFI"-marked labels on my panel without the "SA" moniker. So the "SA" indication is obviously meant to differentiate between them.

In this context, "SA" means "Small Appliance", a specific designation required per the NEC, article 210.52. Dwellings are required to have a minimum number of SA circuits, not to be confused with GFCIs required for outdoor, bathroom and garage circuits. Labeling them that way in the panel makes it easier for an inspector to see so that the electrician can pass the inspection without having to prove to the inspector that he has the proper number of SA circuits.


How can I accurately locate bricks covered in stucco or plaster? Where I live, most houses are old and have red brick walls. On the inside, the walls are covered by stucco or plaster and then some decorative layer. The plaster and mortar in the walls are generally very weak. So when you need to attach something to the wall, you want to drill with a hammer drill through the plaster into the middle of a brick.

The only way I know of to drill into the bricks and not into the mortar is by trial and error and by looking out the window, where the bricks are visible, to guess the middle of the row of bricks.

I am looking for a more reliable way to find the right spot where I can drill. Is there some kind of scanner or instrument that can be used for this?

While this doesn't answer the question directly, I question the need to know where the bricks are when hanging items indoors.  Unless the load on the anchor is going to be axial rather than lateral (ie, pulling rather than hanging), the bricks above and below should still provide support for the anchor even if you are in a mortar line.

Alternate Solution

Perhaps using a different anchor style would solve your problem.  One that flares more when tightened, to better embed itself in the mortar.  Combine this with epoxy to further increase the strength of the anchor.


Electrical and plumbing dielectric myth or fact I heard it's good to keep certain wires (mc cable notably) from resting on copper water pipes as to keep any potential dielectric breakdowns from happening. Is this just a myth or a fact and should I be concerned about when wiring electrical?

The metal / copper can create a problem. I have not found the insulation to be damaged but have found the points of contact created holes in the copper pipe and rusty spots on the metal. The pipe had failed in multiple locations under the house and the copper had to be replaced but the MC was ok even though water had been spraying on it.  I have seen several times when copper to galvinised pipe were made a metal union (it should a dielectric union) the pipes failed in a short number of years / months. I believe there is a photo on this site where chicken wire was used to hold up insulation and the wire was in contact with the Copper pipe and that pipe had started to fail. Not a myth copper and other metals can cause pipe failure, but I have not seen the insulation damaged.


How can I replace a single bulb light with a fluorescent fixture? I would like to replace a single light bulb light in the closet with a fluorescent fixture.  The bulb is wired with two black hots to the light bulb fixture and the white neutrals are wired together.  With the power off at the switch and the light off, both blacks are hot.  With the switch turned on the light lights up.  The switch has typical wiring with neutral white and hot black.  This has worked this way for 38 years.

The fluorescent light fixture has the typical black and white (one each) leads to the ballast?  Can/should I simply wire the white to a black hot and the lack to black?  Doesn't seem proper.

What is probably happening here is you have power to the light on one black, another black to the switch, and a return path along the whites.  That is, the switch is AFTER the light.

This is generally unsafe as the light is still energized, even when the switch is off, and should be fixed regardless.

The first thing I'd do is beg/borrow/steel a non-contact voltage detector.

With everything still attached, switch the light off.  If I'm right, the detector would read hot on BOTH black wires, and the whites will be un-energized.  Flip the switch and the whites should be energized as well.

If this is indeed the situation, the fix is relatively easy. Turn the power off!   Remove the existing light.

Figure out which pair is wired to the switch.  The easiest way is to use a meter in resistance mode.  Find the black-white pair that shows low resistance when the switch is on, and open circuit when switched off.   Mark the white wire with a loop of electrical tape.  This will be the switched hot.

Now wire the blacks together with an appropriate wire nut, and make sure it's a secure connection.  You should not be able to see any copper.

Wire the switched hot (the white wire marked with tape) to the black wire of the new fixture. Wire the remaining white to the white wire of the fixture.  Make sure you've grounded the fixture according to the manufacturers instructions.

Mount the fixture, and turn the power back on.


How can I get plastic wall anchors to work with a tile wall? I'm putting up hooks on the tile wall in my bathrooom. I have to use hollow wall anchors because the tile is over drywall or possibly cement board. But, I'm having a problem. I've used these types of anchors in drywall many, many times with no problem.
But with the tile, after I drill the hole the anchor won't fit into it. If i try to pound it in with a hammer the anchor just breaks. I'm using the drill bit size called for with the anchors. With drywall the anchors are able to bite into the wall some, but they can't do that with tile, hence they don't fit. There must be an obvious solution to this, but I can't figure it out. drilling a bigger hole would be an option, but I don't know how much bigger to go and it would seem that this should be something that would be mentioned on the anchor packaging.

Is there a particular type of anchor for tile walls that I don't know about?

Drywall anchors depend on making the hole a little bigger as they are inserted.  This is a good thing, because drilled sheetrock holes may have chunks missing and the gypsum is not necessarily compacted.  Inserting the anchor compresses the surrounding gypsum and makes it stronger.

Tile is, of course, not flexible or malleable, so you'll have to drill a slightly larger hole through it.  To get maximum holding power, use two bits.  The smaller one all the way through, followed by the larger one just through the tile with minimum drywall contact.  Without knowing which kind of anchor and its size, I can't tell you what size bits to use.  I would experiment by trying 1/64 inch larger increments until the anchor slides through normally.


Using Zinzer BIN primer (shellac base) on previously waxed pine furniture I have a piece of pine furniture that has been waxed (not stained) that I have been wanting to paint for years.  Finally started the project. I tried sanding, but the sand paper got coated with the wax, so not very successful on that end.  I was told I should scrub the wax off using mineral spirits, then go over it with the BIN's with shellac incorporated in it.  WOW, is it THIN!  So, my questions are:

Do I need to remove the wax first then prime with BIN, then paint (latex paint)?
Can I skip the mineral spirits, do the BIN's and paint - will paint adhere if wax is still left on?
What is the best way to apply this runny BIN stuff?  I'm doing this in my condo carpeted living room-LOTS of plastic on floor.
Is there a better easier way?

I believe that this will end up in the wood working SE, but it should be noted that furniture wax is really wax like from a candle; it could be beeswax or petrol (it's not like floor wax which is definitely not wax). Wax is "non-polar". Wax can be cleaned with naptha or paint thinner, which are also non-polar molecules (like dissolves like), but that might make cause the wax to penetrate more deeply into the wood. The same might be true with heating (as Ed Beal suggested) but I wouldn't dare use a heater (or even a hair dryer) near acetone (boom).

The Zinzer BIN shellac is true shellac (meaning it comes from the insect) and it is alcohol (semi-polar) soluble. Wax will not readily dissolve (well) in alcohol and shellac will not dissolve in anything but alcohol (not water nor naptha). So you need to use a non polar solvent, something like naptha to remove wax, and then you will need to remove the naptha or paint thinner from the wood. Acetone mixes with both nonpolar and polar subtances. Acetone can dissolve a naptha-wax mix, and it will dry more quickly than naptha, and acetone and ethanol (shellac base) are miscible.

And acetone can help (a little) with allowing ethanol and naptha to mix (but not very much). After stripping the furniture with a non polar solvent, you should use acetone to rinse out the non polar solvent, then let it dry (kiln dried would be best). Another non-polar solvent that might help would be diethyl ether, but that's even more flammable than acetone.

Prepping the wood for asorbing ethanol: I would consider (as a last step) applying/cleaning the wood with a 50/50 water alcohol mix (with a rag) a few times, and then letting the wood dry. After a few treatments it might help prepare the grain for absorbing the alcohol/shellac. Water will probably discolor the surface of the pine, so you should be prepared to sand (lightly) before applying the shellac.


What to do about particles floating in pool? We just bought a home with a pool. I've done a bit of research online, and feel pretty comfortable with the system, but one thing is bugging me. Regardless of how long I leave our pump on (sometimes for 24 hours or more), when I look at the water, I see tiny debris throughout the surface of the pool.

I've tried using a pool net to scrape the top of the pool (several times) but the particles never really go completely away. Our pool is in a screen-enclosed area, so I don't think it's anything external.

We run a pool vac, which gets the bottom pretty clean, but I just can't seem to get rid of the smaller stuff floating on top. My next move I guess will be to recharge the DE filtration system... but I wanted to see if there are other causes for this that I could remedy before dropping $150 on a tech to come out and clean/recharge the filter?

Is the skimmer basket unit working properly so that the pump sucks in water from right at the water surface? If not then repair or replace it with new parts as necessary.

Your DE filtration system may have some problems. The internal screens that hold the DE matrix in place may have holes that allow water to go right through the filter without passing through a layer of the DE material. If so then the problem screens would need replacement.

It is also possible that the last time the filter system was replenished with DE material that not enough was added and so some portion of the filter screens are not covered with a layer DE material or the layer is way way to thin. In this case your planned back flush and maintenance check of the filter is in order.


Fixing suitable for corrugated conduit inside a chased masonary wall and suitable clips? I was looking at some Corrugated Conduit Black 20mm X 10m and I was wondering what fixings would be suitable for terminating inside a wall connecting to the backbox (the gland). I can find glands for normal round conduit but I'm having trouble getting the ones suitable for this stuff.

I'm from Ireland so it's the same as the UK regs.

Also what clips would you advise for inside the chased masonry wall which will be plastered over? And I suppose some SS masonry nails would do the job?

Would these do?

Here's the corrugated conduit.

The 2017 NEC article 362.10.1.B allows flexible non metallic conduit (smurf tube) concealed in walls floors and ceilings.
362.30.A securely fastened every 3 feet.
Zip tie anchors are even allowed code added a statement that the zip tie had to be listed for securing and supporting (my state deletes this because this is what a zip tie is for). I usually purchase a bag of plastic clamps that are held in with a nail or screws if 1 hole at the start and end of a run I will use 2 one on each side so when fishing the wire through it it won’t pull lose from the clamps and on the inside radius of any unsupported turn when the wires pull tight if the clamp is on the outside it can pull out on occasion if the wall is closed you may not even notice it.


Air condition /CONDENSATION The insulated pipe coming into our house and is inside the wall going into the article is creating condensation.  Do we need to insulate the pipe inside the wall?  The wall I currently insulated but we are finding water at the base.  Will sealing the pipes coming into the house help and if so what do we use?

Yes, the pipe should be insulated.

During normal operation of the a/c system, the pipe may be below the dew point temperature. If air comes in contact with this cold pipe, moisture from the air will condense on the pipe.


What alternatives are there to a retaining wall? The retaining wall surrounding my foundation on the street side of my residence has fallen and has been partially removed. The rest of it will need to come down, and I'm trying to find another option that's in my budget.

Someone suggested to get the soil leveled a little and plant sod. It's a slope-like area with my house sitting about 8ft away from where the wall was and close to the sidewalk that people walk on. Would it be safe to do that? I don't want to ruin the foundation to my house.

You really have two primary options--slope or no (minimal) slope.

With the no-slope option you need either a single retaining wall or multiple tiers of landscaping. You could use small boulders to create two or three individual levels and fill between with gardens of various sorts.

With the sloped option you need to prevent erosion, so sod or a stable covering is needed. Crushed rock or paving stones might work.


How do I install electrical through "new work" stucco? See also How do I install electrical through existing stucco (e.g. "old work") which deals with the old work situation.

What are the best practice products and procedures for installing an exterior light, on a wall that will be re-stuccoed?

While I am looking for a general answer, I do have a specific wall in mind.  This plastic box is installed on top of a circle of plywood with one screw.  The paper is cut around the box and caulked to the outer layer.  The box is not waterproof itself.  I have been unable to find a stucco depth waterproof box:

It sounds like your problem is stucco depth (1 in or more) versus drywall depth (1/2 in or 5/8 in).

Can you find a mud ring/box extender that's appropriately gasketed for use in a wet environment? If so, you can use that to bulk up the box depth.

You could also look for a deeper box. That one looks like a pancake.

Or, since you mounted the box on plywood anyway, just use several pieces of plywood to push the base of the box out to an appropriate depth.


Do I need wall lining between a bathtub and insulation Following up on my previous question about tiling over the tub lip I am trying to figure out how it is all going to fit together. Below is the bathtub picture. The long edge is going to be against the external wall.
The wall is Brick > Air gap > House wrap > Studs with glasswool insulation > Lining? > Bathtub
I am at the stage of installing the lining. I am confused about how to get the lining to sit on top of the lip so the tile can go over.

Secure insulation in place with straps, slide the tub against studs, install the lining from the ceiling to the lip.
Install the lining, slide the tub against it, install 2nd layer of lining to the lip?

Originally I was going to waterproof the wall and floor and slide the tub against the wall, tile to the lip or maybe even behind the tub, and silicone between the lip and tiles.

"Lining" usually refers to a tub surround, not the tile backer board. The scenario where you tile to the top of the lip will cause you to have a large gap that will have to be filled in by some kind of caulking which will increase maintenance(ex. mold, grime, possible cause for leakage in the future). It also is a not accepted practice and takes away from the finished look of the bathroom. Another consideration is the brick wall with studs. That type of older construction has a lot of voids so a little extra work in the beginning gives a lot better result. I suggest you seal up the entire room with backerboard and sheetrock before installing the tub. It will keep mice out too- a common old house issue. If the floor isn't in good shape install a new continuous subfloor first.
Decide what you are using for your walls and tub backer. Choices are water resistant sheet rock, some variation of cement board or one of the lighter weight boards made of foam with a masonry skim coat and mesh face. Sheetrock on most of the bathroom is fine but spend the extra money on either of the last two choices for at least the tub area.
Install the backer board of your choice to within 1/4 inch of the top of the tub lip. Do not let it touch the lip or water wicking will occur.  Install tub directly to stud wall. If your tub can use a ledger board then also install directly to studs(no board behind it) with board above and below it. Many acrylic and steel tubs with a lip can be screwed to the wall by putting a washer head screw directly above the end of the lip. Stainless is best. Not necessary for cast iron.  For extra diligence you can use caulk to fill the gap before tiling. It is crucial that the tub is leveled and shimmed before going any further. A slight backpitch to the wall is preferable to it being pitched away from the wall. Shims should be a solid plastic or something similar. Tile will be installed to but not resting on the tub surface. Waterproofing the floor as stated is not a terrible idea if you're located above a living space and will preserve the subfloor.


Laundry drain smells like sewer after washing clothes I have an in-wall laundry drain - pictured below.
Since we moved in it had a significant clog which I unclogged with a combination of wet-vac sucking on the drain and snaking the vent pipe. Finally we got it to drain without flooding but now there's an awful sewer smell after doing laundry. Before unclogging, while it did flood fairly quickly, there was no sewer smell
So my questions are:

How can I determine if the sewer smell is from a lack of p-trap in the wall (ideally without removing drywall)?
Could the sewer smell come from another clog?
Whether or not there is a p-trap in the wall, could I just put a p-trap outside of the wall attached to the plate to solve the smell?

How can I determine if the sewer smell is from a lack of p-trap in the wall (ideally without removing drywall)?

It would be very unlikely for there not to be a trap; they are required by code. More likely you have a trap that is being siphoned dry, which can be caused by various problems including poor venting, clogged or partially clogged drain, poor design.

Could the sewer smell come from another clog?

YES... well not really coming from another clog, but caused by a clog or partial clog.

could I just put a p-trap outside of the wall attached to the plate to solve the smell?

NO you can't piggy-back traps. If there is a trap in the wall (and I would bet $5 that there is) you can't install an additional trap.
I would recommend that you ensure that all house drains are running free and clear (by whatever means necessary) and same with all vents. The fact that you merely wet-vacced the line and did not snake the drain line (


How could i remove this hardly accessible nut? I want to replace my toilet seat. But i can't really access this nut with any wrench. You can see that there's no way to get to it sideways, so my only thought was to go directly from the bottom using combination pliers. But this long screw makes it impossible to twist the nut more than 1/8th of a turn.
Could you give me some advice on this?

A crow’s foot wrench is a suitable tool for this or a plumber’s wrench which works left or right.
See basin wrench at Home Depot...


Painting over stained shoe molding We got new floors installed and made the error of not requesting new baseboard, re-using the existing baseboard, and having stained shoe molding (instead of white painted). Since re-doing the floor is ridiculous, we would at least like to paint the shoe molding to match the baseboard, since that will look better. The current shoe molding is stained brown and has satin poly. What is the best way to go about painting over this? Oil-based or shellac primer, then top coat? Any tricks on how to tape to avoid paint on the wood floor?

I would use a shellac based primer after roughing up the surface. When doing this kind of work I use a tool that holds a roll of tape and paper 4” to 12” wide paper (hand mask dispenser) this helps to put the tape right at the joint and the additional width of paper really helps to catch drips , sloppy brush marks, I hate painting so I get tools to make it as easy as possible.


Can I upgrade my garage to 20amp service without a headache? I have an unfinished garage which I am looking to upgrade the service to.

Currently it is 15amps running through some difficult to access sub-ground conduit, but if I run the band saw plus the vacuum and lights, the breaker trips. I'm not very familiar with Canadian electrical code, but I am guessing that the main wire picture below is probably 14/3, and I can't imagine you would run more than 15 amps on that?

Snaking/Fishing a new wire might prove to be very difficult as there are several 90 degree bends, and the entire line is behind drywall up to the box. Is there any hope here or am I doomed to shell out some serious cash to get the work done?

Here a photo of where the main wire runs in (the largest of the 3)

doomed..

Run at least 12/3, you get more current (20A per leg) and you get 240V if needed for a welder or compressor down the road


Braided metal hose in wall I'm renovating my bathroom and I was planning on chasing copper pipe in to the wall for a shower and a heated towel rail and then tiling over it. However I'm concerned about either there being a bad joint and it leaking or things not lining up properly.
So could I put braided metal hose in to the wall and the fill the cavity with fire foam? Am I right in thinking that this would be less likely to leak? Also does anyone know if this would comply with UK building regulations?

Thanks,

Joe

This flexible supply line hose is often called "braided stainless steel" tubing, but the SS is just armoring. The hose inside is some sort of rubber or elastomer. It will not last as long as copper, PEX, etc. and I must assume is not code approved for placement inside wall cavities. For one thing the connections are plastic seals which dry out or compress over time. They can only be used where they can be inspected without opening a wall.


Do I need to nail crown molding to ceiling I want to install a wood single piece crown molding.  Given that my ceiling trusses only run one direction, I will have nothing to nail into on two of the 4 ceiling sides of my room.  I dont want to glue a backer board to my ceiling.  Dont want to glue anything to my walls in case I need to take crown molding down.  Is it necessary for me to nail the crown molding to the ceiling as long as I am nailing the crown molding into the studs in the walls?
thx

Yes you definitely need to nail your crown molding into the ceiling joists as well it will prevent the top edge that is attached to the ceiling from sagging over time. I've done trim carpentry for ever 20 years.


Will most battery-powered smoke detectors attach to other back plates? Need to replace a battery powered detector.  Do most of them have the same sort of back plate or will I generally have to attach a new back plate?  Do they usually come with a back plate?

Yes, they come with a back plate, if you get the same brand (if still available) they might fit. But you'll get all the stuff you need to install them as it were a first time install.


How can I use a separate transformer to provide a C wire to my thermostat? Update 02/02/2019
I appreciate all the responses and help but unfortunately i must have not seen the emails stating there were responses!
I am now looking into a NEST thermostat and was curious if they too, use the same connections.
Lastly, looking for a quick recommendation on which WiFi Compatible therms are preferred by the memebers that respond!
Thanks again your knowledge is highly appreciated!
Bob

I Purchased the Honeywell WiFi Prog Thermostat to replace my Round Digital Honeywell Thermostat.
I have separate Heating and Cooling (Heating is a Weil McLain Boiler for Hot water baseboard and Hot water(no tank) and Cooling is a separate unit that was added later.)

Wires:

RC Cool
R Heat
W Heat
Y Cool
G Cool

3 wires from AC unit and 2 from Heater.

If I were to go the separate transformer route to power the thermostat, where would I land the 2 wires?

C and ???

You guys down voted the only answer that is correct and up voted one that is completely wrong!!! You CANNOT use just one wire from a transformer and expect to get it to do a thing for you. The simple answer to your question is that if you add a transformer you want to tie the lines from it to Rh and C. Most modern thermostats I know of expect to pull power between Rh and C. You do NOT want to tie Rh and Rc together since your heating and cooling are on separate transformers and you don't know if they are truly floating.

The complex answer is that you should check to see if the control board of your heating system doesn't, in fact, have a common terminal and nobody bothered to run the wires for it. If it does, it might be simpler to just pull 18/3 wire from the heater to the thermostat. Depending on the run, you can use the old two conductor wire to pull the three conductor wire through.


Can I connect only two wires to GFCI receptacle? My distribution panel's neutral bar is grounded. So I have only two wires coming out of the panel to the GFCI receptacle. The inspector tested the receptacle and said it's not GFCI.

I wonder if it's because I left the GFCI's ground entrance empty? If that's the reason, can I just connect it to the neutral, which is grounded already?

And, does the code require GFCI has to connect with 3 wires? 2 Wire is not OK?

Thanks!!!
-Henry

It is perfectly to code to replace a two-prong outlet (without an available ground) with a GFCI.

Never, ever, make a bootleg ground by connect the neutral to the ground pin. It may seem to work, bug under some extreme circumstances, you could end up with lethal voltages on the ground pin.


Should I Circumvent the Pressure Regulator or Cap it for a Gas Line Pressure Test? My gas line can't be pressurized since there is a pressure regulator installed after the gas shutoff valve.

My solution was to install an additional shutoff on the outlet side of the meter, circumventing the pressure regulator.

Was there a better way to do this?

For the pressure test, should I have removed and capped the regulator, leaving everything else as is?

3/4/2020 Gas man came to the property and said my setup was perfect since everything after the meter is my property. He stated that a pressure test is not supposed to include the gas company's equipment (the pressure regulator), and that the regulator was working fine. He performed his own test by disconnecting and hooking up a meter in between my line and the meter, and there was no pressure loss.

My gas line can't be pressurized since there is a pressure regulator installed after the gas shutoff valve.

That's... not how it works. Regulators don't vent in an over-pressure situation, they just close. If it's venting, then you have a bad regulator.

You should have tested with your regulator in position. Your pressure test did not test the regulator for leaks, and it should have.

Your pictures are a little hard to see, but here is an image that I think matches your setup: regulator before the meter, test point after the meter. Your pressure test should be testing the parts I have colored red, plus the piping and appliances inside.


Connecting TV to better external speakers: Type of connection I have a Philips 32PFL4738 81 cm LED TV but the built-in speakers don't give great sound. I want to attach external speakers but am having a hard time figuring out what kind  would match.

The TV specs. say this:

I've Speaker Option#1 that says: Audio input cable: Stereo Audio
(3.5mm jack) x1
Speaker Option#2 says: Connector Type Stereo Jack (3.5 mm)

Would any of these fit the TV?

The only output listed on the TV specs seems "CVBS". But Wikipedia says that CVBS is " analog video transmission (without audio)".

So, is there any way of getting audio out of the TV (to external speakers) at all?

Edit (based on the excellent answer by RedGrittyBrick):

Would a converter cable of this type work to connect the L/R RCA type audio output of the TV to the 3.5 mm Audio In port on the speakers?

3.5mm Stereo to Dual RCA Audio Adapter Cable, 3.5mm Female to Dual RCA Male (Red/White), 6 inch

According to the manual, the AV output section has L and R audio outputs that you could connect to an audio amplifier.

The "Video" connector will be composite video, the L and R audio outputs will be typical phono (AKA RCA) connectors at audio "line" levels.

Twin phono to twin phono cable used for stereo audio (Red is Right channel) and triple phono to triple phono cable used for composite video plus stereo audio (or for some types of component video).

If your speaker/amp has a 3.5mm stereo input you need a cable with ends like this instead:

though you can make up a lead from several combinations.

You will need a normal HiFi amplifier plus passive speakers or active speakers (AKA monitors in audio terminology) which are powered and include a built-in amplifier in one of the speakers - this will have phono or 1/4 jack plug or 3.5mm stereo jack inputs and a volume control.

You can't use USB loudspeakers of the sort often used with PCs.


Is it okay to replace the Relief valve on a water heater, or do I need to get a new water heater? What happened was my wife smelled a different kind of odor.  I had a very good idea it was the water heater.  I opened up the compartment, and water was trying to come out of the pressure relief valve.  Water was all over the tank and the floor.  I checked the circuit breakers, one of the four were tripped.  I turned off all four and the box was pretty warm.  I went back and checked things out.  As I mentioned,the water ran down the front of the tank, both covers came off, water ran into the electrical parts, causing a short lived fire, which scorched areas on the outside of the tank.  I don't see it leaking water anywhere else. So I am back to asking, it is possible to just replace the Pressure Valve on the tank, or do I need to replace the water heater in it's entirety?

Water ran into the electronics of the heater and caused a small fire?

Yeah, probably going to be cheaper and easier replacing the whole thing than trying to figure out every part that damaged by that.  Especially since it had to be manfunctioning in the first place to overheat like that.

Water coming out the relief valve like that can indicate a serious malfunction - that valve isn't the whole problem. It is what makes the tank leak instead of explode.


If mounting a TV bracket on a brick wall, is it safe to use the existing holes from an old bracket? I live in the uk and the wall construction in the house is 1930s red brick. The previous owners of the house had their TV mounted on the living room wall (actually the load-bearing party wall with the neighbours, so it should be of good, solid construction). If the bracket we have fits the existing holes, is it safe to reuse them? If so, is there anything I should do in order to prepare the holes for the new rawl plugs?

Sure, as long as the material around the holes is sound and the holes are the correct size for the fasteners or anchors.


Is #10 wire correct for my mini-split system on a disconnect? I have a disconnect box that is on a 50 amp breaker connected to a disconnect box using 6 AWG. In order to connect my mini split system to the disconnect do I use 10 AWG wire based on the information on the label?

You can use any wire you want, 10 AWG or larger... so if you have some #6 lying around, don't make a run to the store lol.
As far as circuit breaker, 30A is fine.  What the label is telling you is that if you get nuisance trips, it's OK to bump to 35A or 40A.   Or even 45A, but that is not a commonly made breaker size, so that basically means 40A lol.   It might be available in fuses.


What is "sealing compound" for attaching a sink My directions simply say "Sealing compound", but an initial search on this isn't showing much.  What specifically should I use for attaching a sink top to the wood vanity it will sit on.

There are several silicone or silicone-based adhesive caulks specifically forumulated for kitchen/bath use.  My personal favorite is DAP in the flexible tube.  But whatever trips your fancy...


Halogen lights charing floor beams I was replacing a halogen spot light bulb earlier on and I spotted fair amount of charing on one of the upstairs floor beams which was very close to the light fixture. Damage can be seen in the picture. Upon further inspection I found 4 other light fixtures caused similar damages to the beams and insulation around them.
How can I make the fixtures safe? Changing halogen lights to led would reduce to amount of heat they produce but would that be enough? Moving them all could be a hard job since some of them is in awkward spots under tiled floors etc.

These are the current type of bulb and fixtures

You can buy LED versions of these. Just put "gu10 led" in your favorite search engine. Typically, they'll use 3 to 7 watts. No way this will char anything.

But they are a bit expensive (on the flip-side they never burn).


Trying to install Leviton smart switches replacing two older switches Am I installing this correctly?

I'm trying to install two new Leviton smart switches. Had two neutrals tied off, so pig tailed them. Does first switch need be replaced as well? It's a Lutron dimmer.  Needless to say, the switches do not work.

Thanks for the input. I got this working. Started the sequence from right to left. The white neutrals were two wires capped off under one cap. The pigtailing worked for the neutrals to the new switches. What I had wrong was switch two was chained to switch three with a red. I ran that, which should have been hot, to the reds that are pigtailed together.  Then I relooked at the wiring diagram and was able to get the switch wires adjusted.  Bottom line, working well.


Do I need to be concerned about moisture around dryer exhaust? I have a dryer stacked on top of my washer and the exhaust duct attachment point is elevated off the ground.

Or contractor had to build out the wall and create an area where the plumbing, gas and exhaust can be hooked up to my machines.

We've been running these machine for about 6 months and I just noticed that there is warm moist air flowing (low flow) around the duct connection point by the wall (red arrows in picture) there is also some condensation on the walls.

Should I be concerned about moist air getting behind the walls and causing mold?

Is there anything I can do to minimize the leaking moist air?

I think your venting is leaking.  If it was not leaking, you would not be having condensation.  Condensation in this area is a result of warm moist air - from the dryer - contacting a cool surface.  Seal the leak, solve the problem.

I've been working on dryer professionally for 40 years.


Can an LED light sold in US be used where voltage is 220? The packaging on an LED light does not limit voltage. If it is sold in US can it be used safely where voltage is 220?
Here is an example

The answer for the specific bulb you linked in the question is no.  However, similar-looking bulbs are available for 220V.   Search for "vintage edison led bulb" in the destination country or any 220V country to get one that will work and it's more likely to have an appropriate base for your lighting fixtures there too.
From the "Specifications" on the linked page:


Drill bit coming loose on a basic rotary/impact/hammer drill I just received this 21V 350 in-lb impact drill https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088JYH44C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 350 in-lb torque rating seemed kinda decent so honestly I expected better results than I am getting. I am wondering is it

"user error" (my first impact drill here)
expected limitations of this modest tool?
different bit extender needed

The tests I did:
With a two inch thick oak board:

drive a screw as deep as I can
drill out a 3/8 inch hole with a spade bit

In both cases they just gave up at one inch depth.  Bits would come loose and wobble, and no further progress could be made.
As far as tightening/locking the bit:  I watched a few youtube's and they talked about higher end dewalt/milwaukee etc that have locking mechanisms.  This tool does not have a similar mechanism.  Even so the instructions mention

The bit is secure when the chuck makes a ratcheting sound and the sleeve can not be rotated any further".

I did not hear any ratcheting sound even though the fit is tight (before drilling).
Based on a comment I will make the implicit goals here explicit:
"What needs to be done (if possible at all) to achieve"
* two inches of screw fastening in oak
* two inches of 3/8 inch spade boring in oak

The answers may be some combination of:

drilling type settings: classic vs impact vs hammer (latter not likely..)
speed settings:  1 (low speed higher torque)  2 (high speed lower torque)
ratcheting settings:   1 to 25

You bought inexpensive equipment and you are getting inexpensive performance .


Do the quick connectors in my new bathroom fan need to be in a junction box? I recently replaced a bathroom extractor fan. The new model uses "quick connect" electrical connectors, where I stick the house wiring into this little plastic device, and apparently that's all! The previous extractor fan used wire nuts in a metal-enclosed space similar to a junction box, but for this new model the wires just dangle out of the extractor fan module, and there's nothing in the instructions about a junction box.

Leaving the wires dangling next to the insulation in the ceiling kinda freaks me out. Is that really what I'm supposed to do, or are the connections supposed to be enclosed in something?

All connections must be in a junction box. They're mentioned several times in the instruction manual.

  Pull the wire through the hole and into the junction box (not
  included). Using a quick connector, secure 120 VAC house
  wiring from the wall switch to the fan as shown in the wiring
  diagram on page 3.

It is odd that this model doesn't provide an integrated box, but you're expected to provide one. Either that or we're all misled by poorly-written instructions and the connections should be made inside the fan housing as with every other fan ever made. Ever. Be sure to use a strain relief on the knockout (which is also usually included).


Raised Concrete patio construction I'm concerned about the way my raised concrete patio is being constructed and thought I'd do a sanity check here.  14x16 raised screened in porch.  Footers, concrete block and brick foundation with the concrete patio floor to be poured on top of the concrete block.  The foundation sits about 30" above the top of the footers.  The contractor filled the cavity with loose dirt from the footer excavation then topped with 3" of gravel.  How concerned should I be that no compaction was done?  They haven't poured the floor yet but does the fact that it sits on top of the concrete block lessen the need to have a compacted fill as the floor when cured, would be suspended when settling of fill occurs.

The fill is not intended to support the new concrete slab indefinitely. It’s merely fill for the initial concrete pour. The fill will settle overtime, regardless of how well it’s compacted.

Therefore, the slab becomes a “structural slab” and the reinforcing steel MUST be placed exactly correct, or it will fail. That is to say, it won’t just crack, but it will crack so severely it will fail.

We all know the reinforcing needs to be on the tension side (bottom) of the slab, but the slab could have “reverse bending” at the edges and the rebar will need to be on the top of the slab. (Occasionally the slab will be designed with the rebar in the center, in order to eliminate the need to transfer the rebar to the opposite side .)

How thick is the slab and how much rebar is called for in each direction?


Can I hardwire a household fan with a 2.5A "fused" plug? I am wanting to install a wall mounted household fan made by AEROWAY model VIVI . . . I have installed a junction box and am wondering if I can hardwire direct to household circuit with 20A breaker by simply bypassing the plug . . . I didn't notice the plug was fused until I had already installed and pre-wired the junction box (and cut the required hole in wall etc.)

Greg in the states a UL listed device can not be modified this voids the listing. Removing the fused plug voids the UL listing for a 15 or 20 amp circuit, as a second code violation you said drilling a hole in the wall cordage is not allowed to pass through walls so I believe this would be a second failure point. There are fixtures both fans and lights designed to be hardwired theses usually require a junction box with a cord grip for the type of cord being used but removal of the fuse is not safe by itself.


Should I plug unused chimney ports in basement? My house used to use the basement for gas heat and the water heater that were using these, 3.5" and 5" ports in the chimney stack.

The whole chimney is no longer used but I want to keep the option of using it upstairs for a potbelly stove or such. In either case of not using it or maybe using it, how important is it to plug these holes and what should I use to plug them? E.g. some premade air duct plugs that fit or just patch it with brick pieces and mortar permanently? They will not be accessible soon as I plan to hang drywall at about where the camera was when the picture was taken.

Yes. In addition to the comments listed already, as heat rises in your house it can cause more cold air and moisture to enter through the holes.


Will a non-contact voltage detector find live wires in concrete walls? I'm quite an amateur when it comes to home improvement type stuff but I now have my first home and starting to do small work around the house.  I kind of scared myself when I bought a drill and with the very first drill, I punctured a water pipe.  Yeah, not exactly a good intro to home improvement.

Anyway, I'm planning on doing some more drilling and want to be safe.  A water pipe is a PITA but at least the damage was minimal.  I'm much more concerned about electrical wiring.  I was going to buy one of those combined stud finders + live wire detectors but I don't need the stud finder part.  I live in Indonesia where no one builds with wood frame + drywall construction.  Everything here is concrete brick walls.

So, I saw these non-contact voltage detectors online and they look like they fit the bill but I wanted to check here first.  Would that allow me to find live wiring through about 1" of plaster + concrete?

This was the exact product I was considering: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O

Almost definitely no.

I'm not familiar with that exact model, but typically non-contact voltage detectors are designed to have to be within a few mm of the wire to work.  They're called "non-contact", but that means no electrical contact (i.e. they don't have to touch the bare wire). You'll just about have to touch the tool to the insulation of a wire for them to work properly, so it's not likely you'll be detecting wiring within any type of wall with one of these tools.

The description from the Fluke website for the Fluke 1AC II A1 VoltAlertTM Electrical Tester, seems to agree.

  The next generation VoltAlert™ AC non-contact voltage testers from Fluke are easy to use – just touch the tip to a terminal strip, outlet, or supply cord...

Notice that it says, "just touch the tip to...".


Supply Elbow doesn't tighten against wall The instructions for my Kohler Wall-Mount Supply Elbow say to leave the NPT nipple sticking out of the wall 9/16". I did that but now I can't tighten the elbow all the way to the wall as I'm supposed to. The more I tighten, the more I feel like I'm going to break something -- and I still have over 1/8" inch to go.

What do I do? I feel like I have two options

Keep tightening
Replace the NPT nipple with a shorter one if there is one available (current is 3 1/2")

Replacing the current pipe nipple with one that is slightly shorter is the best way to go here. The thing to do is to simply cut off the length of the current nipple by the requisite amount and then get that end threaded slightly more. The re-threading step is necessary because the pipe nipple threads are a tapered thread.

If you do not have the tools to re-thread the pipe yourself it is a service often offered by the bigger old school type hardware stores. A machine shop or plumbing shop are places where you could likely also get this service.

Edit:

It occurs to me that if you have only 9/16" of the pipe nipple projecting from the wall that it may be somewhat difficult for you to remove the thing using conventional plumbing tools. A typical pipe wrench would gnash the threads as you tried to remove the nipple.

There is a special tool just for this purpose called an internal pipe wrench that can be used from inside the nipple to remove the long one and re-install the shortened one. These are available from most tool suppliers including via Amazon.


Adding recessed lighting to room with ceiling fan/light already installed, and using fan will all the light off I have 1 switch, that controls light of ceiling fan and fan is controlled by remote control.

However, I find the room quite dark, thus I want to add several led pot light.  I know this is possible.

During summer season room get quite warm, thus at night, I want to use the fan and turn all the light off,

Is this possible without running a new electrical line?

I did something like this a few years ago, except I had no ceiling light or fan.  I ran a 14/3 up from the wall switch that only powered the outlets.  Since I was also adding cans, I used the 6“ holes I drilled as  access to run the wires, both up the wall and between joists.

I also cut out the original junction box for the wall switch and added an old construction box, having the box removed allowed me access to drill into the top plate.  Using rare earth magnets tied to a string, I was able to stick the magnet to the bit and then pull the string back.  Then use the string to pull the wire.


3-side punched steel channel (strut), image in the post - can't find any equivalents I'm looking to install a hoist system mounted to garage ceiling. I was originally going to attach some 2x4s to the ceiling joists and attach pulleys to those, but then decided to go with steel channels isntead. What I'm looking for is something like this:

It's 12 gauge steel (US, about 2.5mm) with holes on 3 sides and 1 side open.

All the home centers around seem to be carrying something similar, but without holes on the sides - only on the top. Such channels cost like $25-35/10ft. Kindorf looks to be the only manufacturer that I've seen so far making these struts with holes punched on all 3 sides which is so convenient for many applications, but theirs was like $100+/10ft when I saw it available.

Looking for links/brand names/keywords to use in a search/etc.

That stuff is called Unistrut.   Comes in a variety of configurations.   Keep in mind the normal way to attach to it is put special clips with springs that latch into those tucked-in grooves.  They're not just for strength.

When you see stupid pricing on the Internet, that's the "I don't want to sell it" price, or to be more precise, the "I don't want to ship it" price.  They are trolling for noobs who don't know or care what normal prices are, and will pay whatever.  Anything like that - heavy and cheap - should be sourced locally.  If that means you need to skill up on procurement, then definitely do that.  Grainger, lumber yards, local metal supply, electrical supply houses, cast a wide net.


Soldering Table Legs? Would it be ok to solder,brass or hard metal, to make table legs? Or Would the joint not be able to hold much weight?

Solder? Very unlikely.  The bond is designed for electrical conductivity not physical strength (or, in the plumbing case, to achieve a certain strength via capillary action in a very small space).  But brazing, that could work, if you have the capability to heat the metal, such as a forge.  And welding of course is as strong as the metal you are welding itself.


What is the consequence of using lag bolts without pilot holes? I recently had a contractor to help me install a TV mount. The mount is fixed to the wall and studs behind it using four 5/16x2-3/4 lag bolts. Later I found out you are supposed to drill pilot holes before putting in lag bolts, but the contractor did not do this. How likely are the 2x4 studs behind the wall damaged?

Pilot holes are done for two reasons. One is to help prevent the stud from splitting and the second is to make the lag bolt or screw easier to install. The ease of installation is important because the head of a lag bolt can shear off when excessive torque is applied.
As long as your lag bolts are firmly holding the TV in place with no wobble in the mounting bracket you should be fine.


Need help interpreting panel specification On my electric panel spec sheet it says:

  Sum of current ratings of two breaker poles fed from one connector must not exceed 125 Amps.

What does that mean?

What they mean by this is known as a stab rating

What they mean by "connector" here is the tabs, or "stabs", that stick out from the busbars and make contact with jaws on the breakers.  In other words, each bus stab on your panel can handle a maximum of 125A of load, which can be split however you'd wish across the breaker poles on each side of the stab.

For instance, if you had a 100A 2-pole breaker mounted in the two bottom left spaces, you are limited to 25A on each of the two poles across from it (in the bottom right spaces, in other words), which practically limits you to 15A and 20A circuits as there just isn't that much that runs on a 25A breaker.


How can I prevent the fireplace smell when the A/C is on? I get the ashy fireplace smell in the family room when the A/C is running.  I haven't had a fire burning in months.

I checked out this question, but it targets a recent fire and a cold air return.

It would seem that I'm getting negative pressure in the house when the A/C is running, being equalized through the fireplace.  I have a Buck Stove insert that was there when we bought the house.  Consequently, I don't have the standard flue closure mechanism.  It's more of a stepped closure to control airflow while the stove is burning.

Is there anything I can do to prevent the negative pressure that comes with running the A/C?

One way would be a Heat Recovery Ventilator(HRV) that exchanges interior air for outside, which will relieve negative pressure.

Another would be a dampered (and screened) make-up air that connects to the cold air return (a low tech (and low cost) HRV).  These can be tied to exhaust fans or automatic via pressure differential.  You would want a HVAC firm to discuss options.

A third would be a cable operated chimney cap damper.  The stove may complicate this option.  I had one on a naturally aspirated fireplace and was good during rain and windy conditions that used to produce that "old fire" smell.


How can I replace the seal on the bottom of my shower door? I am trying to replace the seal on the bottom of my shower door. Any ideas what it is called and/or what I could replace it with? The "Shower Door Company" of Atlanta, Georgia made the door, which is the "Cameo" model.

What you're looking for is a "replacement shower door gasket".  I found what appears to be an exact match for what you need here:

Replacement gasket

Check the measurements against your own part to be sure.

Good luck!


Please help me choose an AC option I rent an apartment in Anchorage, Alaska. In my 15 years in this state I have never even considered air conditioning, but this apartment gets beastly hot in the summer. It has huge windows facing south and slightly west that just bake the place. Even with fans on high in front of all windows that open, it easily gets over 90F (32C), even though the outside temperature rarely gets over 75F (24C). Dammit! I didn't move to Alaska to be hot! My apartment complex requires that their blinds be visible from the outside, making blackout curtains problematic. We are allowed window AC units, but I'm not finding any that are powerful enough for my main living area that will also fit into the obvious window.

I'm definitely looking for the least expensive effective option. While environmental issues are always a concern, I don't pay my own electric, so electric usage is less of a concern than it would otherwise be. I can get a small unit now that will fit in the small window early in the season and add another later if that will help.

Window 1 is 16" wide. The opening is about 3 feet above the floor, and it is unobstructed by furniture. I wish I could find a 9,000 BTU unit that would fit there, but this 5,000 BTU unit is the only one I can find: Small AC Unit on Amazon. It says it is 16" wide, which is exactly how wide my window is (with perhaps 2mm of wiggle room). I will call the manufacturer before I purchase it to make sure that it will actually fit.

Windows 2 and 3 are 19" wide. They open about 1 foot from the floor. Flow from them will be blocked by the recliner, but I can pull it out to about 3 feet from the windows during the hot season.

The ceiling is level and of "average" height.

I might be able to squeeze this 10,000 BTU unit into window 2 or 3, but it will be close. I have less than 2mm of wiggle room. This 8,000 BTU unit will definitely fit. My biggest concern with units in either of those windows is that they will only be a foot from the floor.

So, if it will fit, can I get away with just the 10,000 BTU unit in window 2 or 3? Will just the 5,000 BTU unit help at all? Should I prepare to need the 5,000 BTU unit and the 8,000 BTU unit a month later (and hotter)? Is either window 2 or 3 a better option? I'm open also to any other advice you may have.

I'd go with 2 5,000's side by side in windows 2 & 3. However, if any of the 3 operable windows are top & bottom tilt-ins for cleaning & therefore both sashes can be completely removed. Then, I'd go for a thin but Tall AC unit, click the right scroll bar 4-times to see the larger models. As you'll see these would even fit quite loosely in window #1, the preferred window.


How to get rid of these white spots or fungus? I am not sure actually what these are but if I don't stay in my room for few days or weeks these seems to grow everywhere these wires, clothes not on paper or wall though.. what are these why they grow and how to get rid of these. thanks for your suggestion in advance.

You must live in a warm humid climate. If so, then these are indeed fungi or mold (same thing). Fungi reproduce via spores. The spores are in the air all the time, so you cannot get rid of it, you can only attempt to manage it. They grow on certain surfaces in warm, humid conditions. They are growing even when you are home, but your activities disrupt the colonies so they remain small and invisible. Left undisturbed, the colonies become large enough to be visible as white spots.

To manage fungus growth, encourage environments they dislike-- cold and dry. Very difficult in warm humid climates unless you can run air con all the time. At least avoid introducing any additional moisture into your environment. Avoid using surfaces in your residence that they like, such as cloth, in favor of surfaces they dislike, such as hard materials. Of course, it's difficult to wear hard materials.

Even on surfaces they do not grow, their spores sit and remain dormant until a disturbance moves them to a favorable surface. Regular cleaning of all surfaces with a mild chlorine bleach solution will help keep spores and colonies in check. For surfaces and clothing where bleach would be damaging, wash with the hottest water possible. For materials where hot water would be damaging, use anti-microbial soap. Use this soap only as needed, as regular use promotes the development of "super bugs" that are resistant to normal controls such as methicillin.


Are receptacles protected when downstream from ungrounded GFCI? I have an ungrounded circuit in my house with three-wire grounded receptacles.  If I install a GFCI, will the downstream receptacles be protected even if the GFCI is ungrounded?

Absolutely, as long as you place the load wires going to the downstream receptacles onto the LOAD terminals of the GFCI receptacle.

A GFI does NOT need an equipment grounding conductor to function properly. In fact, using a GFI at the beginning of the circuit is what will allow you to legally and safely use 3-prong receptacles downstream. Thing is, this does not create an equipment ground for equipment protection for things such as surge suppressors.

By code you are supposed to label any non-grounding downstream receptacles "No equipment ground present".


What happens if you varnish laminate flooring Most laminate flooring has a top coat of aluminum oxide, which is very tough.  Everyone says, "Don't varnish it" but so far I've not found out why. Yes, it's going to need more care -- either renewing the varnish or the usual clean and wax twice a year.  In particular I want to make a somewhat mat finish glossier.

So, just what happens if you apply varnish to laminate?

Is there a stripable floor finish suitable for shining a laminate floor?

It depends on the type of laminate. Some of the early styles were glued t&g if this is the style you have I might try a poly coat depending on the surface material, some are not wood and may not play well with poly, oil or latex. Of the wood and bamboo glued floors I installed poly did help.
Note do not sand with a drum sander the veneer is very thin. If it is a snap lock floor I would not try to use poly as this kind of floor flexes and the poly in the gaps will probably chip along the lines and look worse but I do not know this as a fact, the one house that the renter tried to fix the floor tried to sand it prior to varnishing but had taken the surface layer off , then left knowing their deposit was less than the damage they caused.


Can NM cable run directly behind a junction box in a wall? I'm placing a receptacle 43” above the floor. I plan on building a work bench in this area. I’m running some cable and using preexisting holes in the stud, but one of the holes is exactly 43” high. I’d have to place a receptacle directly in front of the horizontally run cable. Is there anything inherently wrong with that?
Yes I could just lower it, but I’d rather not if possible.

The only two things that come to mind are that a box must be set at an appropriate depth so that it rises to the surface of the final wall covering, and that NM-B cable must be protected by a nail plate when it passes through framing within 1.5" of the edge/surface.
If the wire-behind-box arrangement were done in a 2x4 wall there could be a problem. It appears your wall stud is 2x6 though and provides enough room to satisfy both of those constraints. I think your work looks fine.
All that said.. you could've drilled a new hole above or below the box with a spade bit in about 4 seconds. Of course that would have let the opportunity to ask a question and learn something new slip by. :-)


How do I stop water from coming out of the dispenser on the door of my refrigerator? How do I stop water on the door of my refrigerator from coming out?

Sounds like the valve is broken.  You'll have to locate the shutoff valve, and turn it off there for now.

Pull the fridge out, and look for a valve behind it.  If you can't find one, you'll have to look elsewhere (basement, crawlspace, etc.). It's common for fridges to be fed using saddle valves, so you might want to start looking for that first.

You should be able to find replacement parts online, but you'll have to know the make and model of the fridge.


The inside coil of the A/C unit has ice on it when the temperature outside is cooler than 65 degrees The inside coil of the A/C unit has ice on it when the temperature outside is cooler than 65 degrees. Freon has been added, but it has iced up again six months later. What is the problem?

Most A/C units do not work well at temperatures below 65 degrees. Years ago, we would install a low ambient control. Ask the HVAC people that service your unit to install a "low ambient control device" to help keep the head pressure up to allow the unit to operate below 65 degrees.


70 amp sub panel wire size I am setting up a 70 amp sub panel in my detached garage, about 800 sq ft, from a 100 amp main panel, would a 2-3 copper wire be strong enough to support this? the run from main to sub is about 110 ft. I just plan on running 4 lights, 4 outlets and if I can maybe a 220v outlet for an air compressor....

First, on subpanel size, don't short yourself.  A 70A panel is tiny.  You may think "Oh, this satisfies my immediate needs, and que cera cera"... but really, panel spaces are cheap.  Getting extra spaces now is a very cheap way to protect future plans.  I wouldn't consider anything less than a 12-space (24-circuit) panel.
We see a lot of people spend stupidly unnecessary amounts of money on things like the wrong wire... and then turn around and chintz out on the panel.  Overspend on the panel, it's one of the smallest expenses.  See also...
The garage subpanel needs a main breaker
Well, to be more precise, it needs a disconnect switch at the garage.  The cheapest/most efficient way to do that is a "main breaker" panel.   I guarantee you a 70A panel doesn't have that, so rethink the panel choices to find one with a main breaker.   Your alternative is an actual disconnect switch, but they can be $50 or more, and that plus your existing panel budget will get a really nice main-breaker panel.
1-1/4" conduit is a great idea
That gives you a lot of versatility.  It also accommodates up to 125A of wire capacity.
Those wires
You cannot use NM cable outdoors. Do not buy that.
Now, it really depends how much power you really want out there. From the loads you described, it seems like you could get by with a 30A feed.  Remember you get 2 legs of that voltage, so I'm assuming a 15A 240V compressor that sits on both legs, and then two 15A 120V appliances on one leg each.
But let's be more generous and say 50A, because that's a happy number when using THHN wire in conduit.  You can't do this with cable, but with THWN in conduit, you can use #8 copper or #6 aluminum wire (price it both ways).  You need three THWN wires, and one ground wire (copper #10 will suffice for up to 60A).
You might as well use aluminum since the lugs are aluminum, and it's 1/4 the cost. Aluminum works fine in feeder like this.
If you really want 70A, then again THWN in conduit gives you an advantage as this only requires #6 copper or #4 aluminum conductors and a #8 ground.  (cable would require a size bump).
If you go #3 copper or #1 aluminum you are good for 100A with a #8 ground.
(Above 100A you'll need #6Cu or #4Al ground wire).
The #2 copper you originally proposed (at $7/foot are you kidding me, $800 on wire??) is good for 125A.  But you cannot use NM-B wire. If you really wanted 125A, then you should use #1/0 Aluminum for $200 lol.  (with a #4 aluminum ground wire).
At 110 feet you do not need to enlarge the wire for "voltage drop". That's not a factor until about 180'.


Pergola 13x15 floor space what is 2x6 WRC maximum span? How far span can WRC 2x6 be placed as a pergola rafter/roof? Would be using 5 posts 6x6, 3 in front and 2 at back (connecting to an existing pergola), 4 beams 2x10x18, and need to know if the 2x6 can span over a 13 ft space with no additional support in the middle. These will over hang by 1.5 feet on each side making the 2x6 total length of 16ft. And will have 2x2 on top.

Simpson Strong-Tie just created a pergola designer software last week. You can access it by creating an account at the link below.

Use this as a tool to check your framing sizes and spacing. If you can't select the member size you want, it's because that member size is not strong enough for the spans that you've specified.

It also shows you the connections you need and gives you a detailed report of all the material quantities you need. This is a perfect step to take before your trip to the hardware store.

https://deckplanner.strongtie.com/pergolaplanner/#login


Does code mandate outlets when windows are above the counter? We are renovating our century home's kitchen and would like to install windows that go to the ceiling so that our marble backsplash does not have any seams in it. The thing we later realized is, if we have under cabinet outlets, there would be too much space between the outlet and the range (about 36 instead of the 24 stated in the code). Personally we are okay with this from a practical standpoint.
Since the window would make placing the outlet impossible, will this be okay from an inspection or will we be required to raise the window 3 inches to make room for the outlet (and by consequence introduce 4 new seams). It is my understanding that outlets placed facing up in the window sill would not be to code.

The area the range and sink occupy is not counted. But code shows 24” what I would do is put a tombstone receptacle in on each side of the stove counter top.
Some tombstones are quite nice I have used them in large islands and peninsular counters on multiple houses this may be the cleanest looking option as it will not affect the window and would not be below the counter.


Electrical code covering exterior outlet requirement? I have exterior outlets by each door on the house (front and back) and one by my AC Unit.  Do I have to also have one outside by my back garage door?  This is a person entry door but it is also probably about 20' away from the back door of the house.  I was told each door going out needs an outlet just recently which I can not find in the code.  All I have seen is one located on the front and back of house and at least one within 20 or 25 feet of AC unit.

Common confusion.  In code language, "Outlet" and "receptacle" are two very different things.

A receptacle is a socket or the usual pair of sockets on a single yoke.

An outlet is any delivery point of electrical power - it includes receptacles but also includes lights, water heaters, doorbell transformers, including hardwired loads.  It is an outlet from the wiring system to an appliance or socket.


Can I add a patio sealer to my polymeric sand patio? The polymeric sand "grout" between my slate patio pavers is loosening up and coming out. I suspect it was improperly laid by the contractor. I am going to redo the polymeric sand treatment and I am thinking about using a patio sealer such as Thompson's Patio and Block Paving Seal to brighten up the stone and protect the sand from breaking up. Does this sound like a good idea or is there a problem to doing this that the presence polymeric sand might present?

It's normal for it to loosen a bit the first season or two as things finish settling. If you're in a freeze/thaw cycle climate that can also cause that.

You should be able to apply your sealer over the sanded joints, though it may not prevent this issue from happening again. Patios take maintenance. I had to re-apply a new layer of sand every few years to fill in the gaps here and there.


Are grout lines or gaps required for expansion with ceramic tile? Why do I need grout line for expansion ? I have them in the field but on the side wall around a floor vent there is almost no room and the vent will virtually cover the joints.

An article I read by a tile master said grout is for two reasons:

The first is the tiles are not perfectly uniform so the grout helps equalize size mismatch. To check this, put nine tiles in a 3 x 3 pattern tight up against each other and see if there are differences in measurements horizontally, vertically, and diagonally.

The second reason was expansion and slight movement could cause the edges of the tiles to chip or crack the tiles if they are butted right up against each other.

I don't know if I am completely convinced of the second reason since I have seen quite a few tile installations that have no grout lines, especially marble. The first reason makes sense especially with tile with looser dimensions like stone tiles. Otherwise your lines could be uneven.

Here is a link to a really good book by an actual tile master:
http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Tile-Revised-Updated-Homebuilding/dp/1561580805/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1450267844&sr=1-1&keywords=setting+tile


How to repaint lacquered baseboard, trim, doors and stair rail with latex paint The window and door trim, baseboards, doors, stair rails and spindles, and mantel in my house were spray painted with a lacquer based paint. What steps should I take to re-paint the brown lacquer with a white latex paint? Must it be spray painted to keep the flat, stroke-free appearance or can I use a good quality roller?

Thank you.

Spraying would probably give the most "flat, stroke-free" finish, but requires special tools and materials and a considerable amount of skill/experience for success.

With brushes (I omit rollers for a reason as I never use a roller on trim, baseboards, doors, stair rails, spindles) you can probably get acceptable results with skills you already possess to some degree. The key things are:

preparation- thoroughly de-gloss and clean the existing surface of all dust. Mask off and tarp over adjacent areas in case of drips/spills.
brushes- you can get a smooth stroke-free finish if you commit to using only the very best quality brushes. Yes they are expensive, yes it will be worth it (clean them religiously and store them properly and they will last for years).
paint- use quality paint.
technique- don't be stingy with the paint and always maintain a wet edge. Start with less conspicuous areas and your skills will be honed by the time you get to the important stuff.
patience- the final appearance is directly proportional to the time you spend making it perfect.


Gas stove whines/hums - is this a safety concern? I am located in the United States and have a natural gas (not LP) range in my kitchen fed by a natural gas utility.

Sometimes when I turn on my range, the appliance makes a whining or humming noise. This only occurs when gas is actually flowing:

If I adjust the burner on the stove top, the volume of the noise increases and decreases with the flow of natural gas. That is, on setting 2 it is quiet, on 6 it is very loud.
If I am using the oven, the noise only occurs when the oven burner is actually lit.
If I am using the broiler, the noise is constantly loud because the broiler burner is always on full blast.
No other NG appliances (clothes dryer, water heater, furnace) make this this noise.
At no time do I smell natural gas anywhere in my house. I have checked all flexible hose connections on each gas appliance and several black iron connections with soap and it appears there are no leaks.

This led me to believe it has something to do with the flow of gas specifically in the gas range. Google was helpful enough to point out a few useful links:

we have a Kenmore gas stove, and its making a whining/humming noise

  Based upon the problem description, the most likely cause is air and
  fuel ratios. Either to much air or to much fuel into the top burners.
  Which will create a hum, whistle or whining sound. Generically
  referred to as "noise."

  Burner air ratio to fuel can be adjusted by slightly closing the air
  shutters on the burner tubes. One at a time close each shutter
  slightly and test. Flame must remain all blue. Listen to the burner
  while doing this adjustment. Noise should stop when properly adjusted.

My Stove Is Whining

  Based on your symptom and details the gas pressure regulator is most
  likely causing the whining noise as the gas flow is being regulated.
  Replacing the gas pressure regulator will likely resolve the whining
  noise.

It appears my range has no user-serviceable components: I am not able to adjust "air shutters" or anything else on this model of range. This leads me to believe the most likely culprit is its gas regulator.

I do not want to replace or fix this range unless there is a reasonable risk that it will leak natural gas or some other issue that could cause damage to my house.

Given the evidence presented in this question, is there an elevated risk of my range malfunctioning in such a way that it will create a risk of fire, explosion, or anything else that might damage my house or its occupants?

My background is Industrial, Commercial, & Residential combustion & appliances.  I often also consult to Commercial & Residential Cooking Equipment OEMs.

The noise you are most likely hearing is a high-pitched hum, caused by turbulent flow in some pipe fitting.  Most frequently, the source is an undersized or too lengthy flexible pipe fitting.  If you notice, black iron pipes have straight smooth sides.  This does not guarantee laminar flow, but it does greatly reduce internal friction & turbulence (low pressure drops).  This results in quiet & efficient flow.

Many plumbers enjoy the speed & efficiency of flexible tubing to make the final 18" or so easier to pipe to the appliance.  Flex hoses are flexible by using overlapping corrugated sections.  They cause VERY turbulent flow...but are acceptable under certain conditions...and very quiet when sized and used properly.  There are very specific flow rates assigned to each individual flex line manufacturer's rating.  Exceeding those rates will always cause excessive pressure drop (lower firing rates to you) and usually an improper air-fuel ratio (although not necessarily in atmospheric-type burners)...but they will ALWAYS cause a whine or loud hum.

Increase the flex line size (less than $30 in parts), or try to decrease the length...substituting pipe.

Warning, a burst regulator diaphragm can cause a noise, but the gas odor (caused by the chemical mercaptin) will be evident as it leaks through the regulator vent.  Accumulations (natural gas floats in air) are explosive.  You would easily smell the gas.  LP gases have a 1.5sg (Air is 1 specific gravity) and will drop quickly in air...and also go down drains!  A gas company can easily check for leakage (and should)...however, their meters check in parts per million (ppm).  Gas is only combustible in very defined %.  A room at 100% gas will not support combustion...but do not open the door and introduce oxygen!  Accumulations build to %...and the danger...and exceed the flammibility limit and self-extinguish (not enough oxygen).  Competent gas appliance installers use a method of a soapy water spray (or a specific leak detection soap) brushed onto every joint.  They just look for the bubbles.  It is very accurate to show problems (many OEMs use this approved method to detect leaks).  Any joint can leak in ppm (some pipe dope will outgass and set detectors off), AND be safe AND in full compliance with all standards.  No fitting is leak-tight.

Bottom line, change the flex.  If it is not a code issue in your area...it is a 15-20 minute job by a normal plumber.  Best Wishes.


Is it normal to not have an OL between ground and neutral? I was renovating the garage and noticed that I have a continuity between the ground and the neutral in the conduit box when I tested with a multimeter. I then checked the service panel and noticed that the neutral bus is hooked to common ground directly. (and it passed the inspection that way long time ago.)

Is this normal? Isn't the neutral rail should be connected to the ground separately and ground cables should be connected to the 3rd rail (or busbar)?

Sorry in advance if this is a stupid question, I'm just trying to be safe and it just didn't make sense that they actually loop. I always thought ground is a "less prefered" route for the electricity to travel hence it being isolated and to be forced to bypass neutral wire seems to be making more sense.

Neutral and ground systems must be completely separate, that's true.  However, that's done for some purposes.  First, it's desired to keep hot and neutral wires reasonably near ground potential (i.e. within 120V of it).   Second, since hots have circuit breakers and neutrals do not, we want it so that if a wire shorts to ground, a neutral-ground short will be fairly harmless and a hot-ground short will trip the breaker.

Both of these require neutral be fairly near ground potential - though a couple volts difference would be fine.  Well, "a couple volts difference" would require some sort of transformer there or something; a copper strap is a lot cheaper.

So, neutral is forced to be near ground potential by installing a neutral-ground equipotential bond, and in exactly one location.  As near the service as possible, in the main panel and right where the grounding rods attach. If there were two, then ground would be used as an alternate current path for neutral, imbalancing current, and a neutral-ground break could actually electrify all the grounds beyond the break!

It's easy to see that and think "neutral and ground are the same thing, I'll just shortcut that where I care to".  But that means if the system fails in a trivial way - broken neutral for instance - all the grounded things are now hot things.  Neutral is for normal return currents only, and ground is for fault currents only.

Nothing should ever return current on ground.  UL did approve a few smart switches which return less than a milliamp on ground and had some internal controls to ensure that this could never be enough current to shock someone.  But NFPA told them to stop approving those.

You will see a fraction of a volt of voltage difference between neutral and ground.  Since normal currents flow on neutral, it's subject to voltage drop : Vdrop = Current x Wire Resistance.   However current doesn't flow on ground, so it suffers no voltage drop.


Water Pump Pressure Switch Adjustment Hi we have a water pump in our building i wanted to change its cut in and cut off pressures but i couldn't understand pressure switch's setting also there is pressure gauge but i think it's not functioning correctly because i couldn't find a pattern on that this is a picture of the pressure switch i want to know what is it's current pressure range ty

The current setting is to pump up to 90 psi and shut off. When the pressure drops to 45 it will turn back on and pump to 90. If you wand a more even pressure reduce the differential pressure. Reducing the differential to 20 the pressure will stay between 90 & 70. this will cause the pump to cycle more often than its current settings. If the pump is cycling rapidly the pressure tank may have lost its air charge.


Do rainwater drain pipes have to bend at the bottom One of our rainwater pipes ends half over a small drain, but the bend at the bottom means some of the water misses the drain and runs off along the patio,

I thought I could simply cut a hole in the bend so the water drops straight down, but does the bend perform any function that would be missed if it was removed?

yes it stops the water from pooling at the base of the wall and seeping into the foundation

if you can ensure all water goes into the drain there will be no danger though


How to Drywall Around Wood Extending From Ceiling Curious what I need to drywall around the 2x4 that is extending out of the ceiling in the photo.  There used to be a wall where the 2x4 is, but we are joining the two rooms that were previously separated by the wall. Since the 2x4 is not flush with the ceiling, I'm wondering what is the proper way to drywall over that piece of wood.

You don't box around that unnecessary wall plate. You remove it--it's part of the wall you removed--then fill the drywall gap. If you lack drywall backing because the joists are parallel, simply float some scrap wood across the gap and screw it to the existing drywall.


20 amp wires into 15 amp outlet I'm replacing a hall way outlet that only runs the hall light. I have the 15 amp outlet and the wires coming out of wall are too big to fit in holes. Guessing 20 amp? Is it ok to just wrap them around screws instead? thanks

That's exactly what you're supposed to do.  The back stab terminals on receptacles are designed only to accept #14 wire, and typically are labeled as such.

If you're using #12 wire, you'll have to use the screw terminals. Keep in mind, however, that you can only connect one wire per screw terminal.


Do I need a separate moisture barrier for basement laminate flooring I am going to install laminate flooring (without attached padding) on the concrete floor in my basement.

Do I need a moisture barrier in addition to the underlayment padding or does the underlayment padding also act as a moisture barrier?

For instance this product

After doing a bit more research the answer appears to be "it depends on the product."

Some pads are designed to also be a moisture barrier and some are not so read the product specifications.


What is the purpose of the rear end of a roofing hammer? I am referring to this kind of hammer, also known as a roofing hammer.

I understand that the flat end is intended to act as a normal hammer, and the sharp end is intended to pierce holes through roofing slate, to aid in fastening (perhaps by nails)
However, what is the purpose of the non-sharp protrusion from the rear (non-hammer) end? In other words, why is the roofing hammer's rear end asymmetric?
-edit- I found another roofing hammer, which clearly has the two rear protrusions offset from one another, so it is unlikely to be for the purpose of being a nail claw. Anyone has experience with one of those, then?

One reason for the offset design for the type of roofing hammer that you showed it that it can be used to guide or tap the roof covering piece into place.

The type of hammer with the offset spike end can be used as a shingle tab exposure guide. The point slid under the shingle being applied with the offset step at the edge of the shingle the hammer head would be adjusted till it is even with the previous course of shingles. Some types of roofing hammers have an adaptation of this idea to allow for an adjustable shingle exposure.


Mudding over cement board in shower thanks in advance for help. I'm trying to finish a shower that was in progress from a crew until we had to send them packing with the job unfinished. They installed a shower stall, with tile up the walls until about 18" from the ceiling (and that was our design-- they did that part right). The tile is done, but the last 18" is still exposed cement board. On the way out, the tile setter said "just mud over that top part and paint it."

Is it really that simple? Just put a coat of mud over the top of the cement board and paint? Thanks!

Yes and no. You can certainly tape all the joints as you would with drywall and skim the rest of it to achieve a smooth finish, but you can't just skim coat it and call it a day. You have to reinforce the corners and any flat seams with paper or mesh tape.


Can I upgrade from a 240V 30A circuit to a 240V 50A circuit? I have a new range with a NEMA 14-50P plug. I find my 240V receptacle is for a dryer, with the top blade a 90° one. So I need to change the receptacle out. However, I think my range needs 50 Amps, and the 240V circuit breakers are ganged 30 amp. The reason I think this is the cord on the range is rated for 50 amps. The installed circuit breakers are type QP. Are these all plug in circuit breakers?. Is it sufficient to just upgrade the existing circuit breakers with 50 amp QP circuit breakers. Is that all I would need to do change out the circuit breakers, and change the receptacle? Do I need to change the circuit breakers or would the 30 Amp breakers suffice?

To increase the amp rating of your circuit breaker, you almost certainly need to increase the gauge of all the wiring on that circuit. Circuit breakers are there to protect the wiring for overloading, overheating, melting the insulation, and eventually starting a fire.

Typically, you have the following wire gauges (this may vary with long circuits and your local codes):

15 amps: 14 gauge
20 amps: 12 gauge
30 amps: 10 gauge
55 amps: 8 gauge
75 amps: 6 gauge

So going from 30 amps to 55 amps requires you to rewire that circuit from 10 gauge to 8 gauge wiring.

For your oven, check the specs on the oven itself. It may simply have a plug that's designed for multiple ovens and will work on a 30 amp circuit.


What can I do to reduce cold infiltration by a direct-vent gas fire place? My home has a direct-vent gas fire place on the ground floor, and each winter the area around the fire place inside the house becomes very cold (granite finish).  On colder days, the carpeted floor area near the fireplace is also cold.  The fire place is rarely used, but is insulated above and under its enclosure (I can't tell if the sides are insulated, but the adjacent drywall is).

I have researched this "cold air" problem and many other forum posts describe the issue as a draft, but none give solutions other than "call the contractor who installed it", or "that shouldn't happen".  To be clear, the problem is not a draft but rather heat loss via radiation and conduction; I can not detect a draft or airflow in the immediate area around the fire place.

Is this type of fire place inherently vulnerable to cold infiltration by its design?  It seems that since the venting pipe is always open and allowing outside air into the combustion chamber, then there is a always going to be some heat loss, especially when there is a large temperature difference between inside and outside the house.

If this isn't supposed to happen, then what can I do to rectify the problem?  I have already filled the control area below the fire place with towels and blankets (when not in use), but that isn't making a significant impact.

EDIT:

After further investigation, there is a draft originating from somewhere behind the fireplace installation.  In the control area (below the combustion chamber), air comes into my room from anywhere where there is a hole in the sheet metal.  I will have to start looking for cracks under the fireplace via the crawlspace, and outside of the home in the area that encloses the vent pipe.

It is very important to ensure all infiltration paths a sealed off and adjacent walls and floor are properly insulated. Even a hairline crack in the doors can cause enough infiltration to lower temperatures in the area, though no actual moving air can be detected.

Even so, the fact that outside air can freely circulate in the combustion chamber will also be a heat sink, lowering temperatures in the area. More sophisticated devices similar to this utilize automatic dampers that interlock with the fuel supply. These are located on the exhaust flue, and sometimes on the combustion air inlet as well. I don't know if retrofitting such devices is possible on typical residential fireplaces. Such a project must be done very carefully to ensure complete safety. Failure of the system can result in carbon monoxide poisoning, so multiple fail safe measures are called for. Such measures are beyond the abilities of nearly all DIY practitioners. Only fully qualified professionals should perform this sort of work.

Even more so, though flue dampers prevent cold air from freely circulating, they are typically thin sheets of metal with poorly sealed edges, so the fire box will still be fairly cold, albeit much less so.


What is involved in moving the gas line in my basement up a few inches? I have gas lines that stick out about 1 inch below the joists in my basement.  This actually starts right where the pipes enter my basement - they go over and then down.  I need that "down" part to be a few inches shorter.

So my choice is to fur out a 3 foot section in the ceiling (which will look fine because it is against the back wall) or to get the pipe moved up.  The section that needs rerouting is 20 feet.

So my question is really about who I would hire to do this, and what would be involved in doing it?

I had a plumber friend come to take a look at it.  He notched out the joist an inch and pushed it up.


What are some alternatives to wall anchors? I've used these anchors in the past...I really like them for heavy duty mounting in drywall (for things such as vertical standards for shelves).
However, these make pretty big holes in the drywall. Eventually if you take them down, put up new ones in different spots, they will essentially add many little holes to the drywall. You can patch it up, but the patched up spots won't have the same holding power.

What are my alternatives, if any?

An alternative to using a large wall anchor for heavy duty mounting is to always find a wall stud for whatever item you are hanging on the wall.  Then you can use a smaller gauge screw (or nail) without any type of anchor required.  This will leave a smaller hole in the drywall and give you all the strength you need, but limit you to the places where you can position the item.

I am not sure what the weight of the item is that you are looking to hang on the wall but another alternative could be to just use drywall screws without any wall anchor.  In my house I do this a lot with light pictures, etc.  A drywall screw positioned at a slight downward angle has a good amount of holding power especially if it is something that is not going to get a lot of use but just sit there (I do not recommend just a drywall screw for something like a coat hook).

And then you can always use picture hangers like this that would only make a small nail hole:

Or even those sticky Picture Hanging Strips like this:


how close together can screws be before weakening a joint I am looking at a full lap joint between two pieces of softwood, held together by two screws.  I may need to screw something else to it as well, which got me wondering whether there is a limit to the density of screws in such a joint before adding more screws makes the joint weaker (because of removing material for the pilot holes, and the screws crushing the wood fibres, etc).  Clearly filling every available square millimetre with screws is going to make the thing fall apart, but up to a point adding fastners will add strength.

Are there any guidelines for this e.g. in terms of screws should be x times the root diameter apart?

Western Woods Products Association and West Coast Lumbermen’s Association have produced tables and charts based on “stress” for wood fasteners in shear and withdrawal in various species of wood.

The values are based on the diameter of the fastener and if it is in “stress” parallel to grain or perpendicular to grain.

So, for wood to wood connections (the spacing is closer for metal side plates) it is:

For PARALLEL to grain loading: 1) center to center along the grain is 4 Times it’s diameter, 2) row spacing is 3 Times across the grain (parallel), 3) edge distance is 1.5 Times , and 4) end distance (in tension) is 7 Times diameter and when in compression it can be 4 Times diameter...and when installed with less, it’s certain to split the wood.

For PERPENDICULAR to grain: 1) center to center across grain is 5 Times diameter for fasteners with a slenderness ratio of 2 and 6 Times diameter for fasteners with a slenderness ratios between 2 and 5, 2) row spacing is 4 Times diameter, and 3) edge distance is 4 Times for stressed side and is unimportant for opposite side.

There’s a formula for calculating STAGGERED spacing (and they can be closer together when staggered) but it’s too hard to calculate, so just know that they can be closer if staggered.

So, to answer your question, yes it does matter and there’s a way to determine the value if you’re Einstein.