What is the minimum distance required between handrail posts and opposite wall? Regarding stairway code, I understand the distance between the handrail and the opposite wall can be a minimum of 31.5". But I can't find any wording on when the handrail is attached to posts. Does this distance apply the same way when the rail is on posts?

Specifically I want to know if the distance from the outer edge of the posts to the opposite wall is 33.75", is that ok?

Please see the drawing to understand what I'm talking about.

This answer depends on where you are in the world and if you are in the USA what state you live in.

Section R311.7.1 IRC 2009:

Stairways shall not be less than 36 inches (914 mm) in clear
width at all points above the permitted handrail height and
below  the  required  headroom  height.  Handrails  shall  not  project  more  than  4.5  inches  (114  mm)  on  either  side  of  the
stairway  and  the  minimum  clear  width  of  the  stairway  at  and  below  the  handrail  height,  including  treads  and  landings, shall not be less than 31.5 inches (787 mm) where a handrail is installed on one side and 27 (698 mm) where handrails are provided on both sides.
Exception:
 The width of spiral stairways shall be in accordance with Section R311.5.8.

Above snippet from:
http://www.co.stevens.wa.us/landservices/documents/STAIRWAYSECTION.pdf


Neutral (grounded conductor) for bathroom switch (NEC 404.2(C))? I understand that a grounded conductor (neutral) is not required by code (404.2(C)) for bathroom switches, but is there any reason that I would want to include it - future-proofing, etc.?

I'm going to rewire my bathroom soon (fan with light, vanity, and one GFCI outlet).  The home run is in the ceiling, so I'd have to run a traveler to the switches in the walls if I want a neutral at that location.

Your book is faulty -- 404.2(C) may not have required neutrals at bathroom light switches at one point in time, but it certainly does in the current (2014) NEC!

  C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for
  the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches
  control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch
  circuit for other than the following:

  (4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom


Mounting a TV wall mount to stud where A/C is detected I want to mount my TV on the wall and just purchase a wall mount for it. I've done this kind of install before, but when I was using my stud finder, it is indicating that one of the studs has AC current. There is an outlet on this stud ~ 1 foot from the floor, but I'm able to detect AC all the way up to the ceiling (and if I go to the second story, I'm able to detect AC all the way up to that ceiling, which is weird, because the third story is an empty attic). Presumably, there is an AC line stapled to the stud vertically.

Is there any way I am able to still use the stud with my wall mount? I'm mounting in a corner so there are only really two studs to use. Am I SOL? Presumably it's a bad idea to drive a 4" lag bolt into the stud, even on center, if there is a powerline stapled to the stud (which itself is an asumption).

This is the wall mount: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=8586

I agree with ppa about the wire running down the stud. Try to determine which side of the stud it is on by slowly moving your detector away until the light goes out. Probe for the stud with a 4d finish nail until you locate the exact ouline of it. Then follow bats advice and carefully drill the stud with a pilot bit for your lag bolt. You may want to be just a hair off center away from the cable but still in the meat of the stud. The pilot bit should be half the diameter of the screw or less. This should guide the screw and keep it from wandering off.

If you take your time and are careful you should be able to avoid the electrical cable in the wall and still get the holding power of the stud. I would not trust #10 screws or drywall anchors for this job.

The best way would be to remove a part of the drywall, attach horizontal blocking between the studs and patch the wall back up. Then you have a really solid installation. But then, this will cost more time and money.

Good luck!


Can I run Cat-6 in conduit with line-level power cables? I am sitting on a beautiful and relatively new patio in my back yard. When installing the concrete patio, one electrical conduit was installed to run power out to the gazebo. This coming week it will be installed.
I’m thinking I would like to also run a Ethernet cable, too. I like the idea of a WiFi access point out here.
I know all the experts say don’t run low voltage and high voltage together because someone might run a nail or something into both, but we are talking conduit here, no nails will ever be a factor.
My main concern is RF shielding.  Will CAT6 give a good solid 1G connection, or do I need something better shielded?

Barring you bother to source high-voltage rated Cat5e or Cat6A, sharing a conduit with line voltage is a clear and blatant code violation. It's got nothing to do with nails. You should have put in two conduits, or three to cover the unknown next thing. Cat5e will carry full gigabit the same distance that Cat6 or 6A will.
If you are committed to a cable solution, "all dielectric" (no conductive members) fiber optic would be the best choice and code compliant.
Either type of cable needs to be wet-rated as all exterior conduits are wet by definition (and in reality.)
Your least expensive effective option would be a pair of high-quality 802.11ac point-to-point links if there is a clear line of sight from the building with networking to the gazebo.
You could also try a pair of those "powerline ethernet adapters" but I can't say I recommend them.


Anyone know if there are any large chains that carry HT Armaflex? Grainger doesn't have it, Northern Tool doesn't have it, and Lowes doesn't have it.  Home Depot has a lower temperature (200F) Armaflex, but doesn't have HT Armaflex.  (HT Armaflex, by the way, is a high-temperature rubberized pipe insulation.)

Does anyone know where I can get this stuff?  :(

PS: I'm in DFW, TX.

Mike, check out your local HVAC professional supply houses.  I didn't try it, but often times the manufacture's web site with have links to suppliers also.


Can my lug and breaker insert be rotated 180 degrees I recently posted a question about my panel, Cutler Hammer CH30E, being properly grounded. All ground wires were twisted together and stuck in two lugs screwed into the left side of the panel.

This didn't go over well with Harper. So I got the appropriate grounding bar for the panel. The two pretapped holes for the bar are about 3/4" above the lug /breaker insert and another set 3/4" below the insert. The lower location would be great except none of the grounds will reach. The top location would be behind the 2-2/0 Al wires. It would fit but be close.

Are the panels designed so that the lug/breaker insert can be rotated 180 degrees and the feed come in from the bottom instead of the top. This would free up the top area for the bar and all the ground wires would reach.

There are some improper handle ties from when they built the house. I've got correct ones on order.

UPDATE:
 Well I think I corrected the problem. I removed the two lugs holding all the ground wire. shown below are the two lugs and the screws that held them to the side of the box.

Here's the panel with the new grounding bar installed. The rep at the electrical supply store ( not Home Depot) assured me I could double ground on the holes, even triple ground, since I got the suggested grounding bar for the cutler Hammer panel. I tried to clean the panel up a bit but was limited because the builders cut the wires so short.

Thanks for your help.

That right there is what a panel should look like. Note the empty void for a third service wire; that's for 3-phase which means it's industrial grade. The breakers are 3/4" wide; this would only fit 20 breakers if they were 1" tall.   It's very, very busy in there, but only because all the wires come in the top hole.  It's not anything to worry about.  They did you the disfavor of  runting off all the wires so they barely reach the breaker/bar, which frustrates moving anything around or adding AFCIs/GFCIs. But here's the thing:

Ground bars do not need to be in the factory anointed locations

They can be placed anywhere in the panel. except the screws can't mount on a knockout (it can bridge across an unused knockout).  But you need to very carefully drill and tap the mounting holes yourself, -32 pitch or finer,  typically an 8-32 or 10-32 or 1/4-28 screw (whatever they provide in the kit).  The holes must be the right size, which means looking it up on the web and hitting a hardware store for the correct bit, probably a numbered bit like #27.  I would wrap the drill bit with masking tape so only the first 3/16" is exposed, so it can't nick a wire.

If you strip out a hole, just move the bar over 1/4" and try again.

Mind you, the -32 requirement is for electrical contact.  I wouldn't rely on it for electrical contact. I'd use a nice fat ground wire also,  going from the ground lug you're abandoning through your first bar, through your second, pop up a little for the clamp meter, and then onward to the neutral bar.

As far as flipping the bus bar assembly

It looks to me like Cutler Hammer went to a fair amount of work specifically to make the bus bar assembly flippable.  But that appears to be so they could do it at the factory, because there's a problem.

The cover won't line up.  You could contact Eaton and see if they can supply a cover for that; it's possible.


What may cause raised lines on drywall? We are noticing some puffed up lines on the wall not sure what it is. I see these lines in 2 places staircase and dining hall (high ceiling) going all the way to adjacent wall not visible in dining hall pic . I attached images. Do you know what they are  and what causes them ?

Those are almost certainly seams between sheets of drywall that are either settling or have suffered moisture damage. (By far the most likely is settling, but since there's a window above, I wouldn't rule out moisture.)

Check the exterior and interior on the window above to see if there's any evidence of leakage.

Otherwise, you could re-tape, texture, and paint, but that's a lot of time for not a lot of benefit.


What do you think this odd layer under wall paper may be? I'm taking down wall paper in my 1920s house. The walls are plaster/lath. At some point, the room seems to have been skim coated, primed, and then wallpapered. The wall paper has come down fairly easily: pulled down a thin layer, wetted the paper layer underneath, and then pulled down that paper layer easily. Around the radiator, however, an under-layer pulled up as well. It seems to be made out of a sturdy paper like material, with perhaps fiber-glass embedded in it? There seems to have been a skim coat put over some parts of this layer. Any ideas on what I'm looking at and how to proceed? (The vertical line in the picture is a pencil line, not a seam)

It is likely wall liner. It is a heavy plain paper that is applied prior to the outer wall paper. You could think of it as a thick coat of primer that will hide a multitude of problems. I have seen it applied over dark patterned paper so a lighter pattern can be applied with stripping the walls. I have also seen it used over the scratch coat or when the wall has a lot of repairs to give the wall a smoother appearance.


What material is this in my 1950s home's walls? Is it dangerous? I am renovating an old bathroom. It's in a house built in the late 1950s in Germany. I have removed the bathtub. The bathtub was built in a box, which had tiles on the outside and this black material on the inside.

My question is:
What is this stuff? Is it asbestos? I need to know, because if it really is asbestic-material I cannot dispose it along with the "normal" debries.

This looks "Sauerkrautplatte", aka Holzwolle-Leichtbauplatte. It's made from wood shavings and cement, but no asbestos (AFAIK). They used to be common as a form of drywall and insulation (but are not anymore).

  Wood wool lightweight boards (also called HWL boards ) are building boards that consist of long-fiber wood wool and mineral-based binders . HWL panels are used as plasterable insulation panels both indoors and outdoors. Colloquially, they are often referred to as "sauerkraut plates" or "sauerkohlplatten".


What are the key differences between a step drill bit and a knockout punch? Both a step drill bit and a knockout punch seem to be very similar, in that they both make holes in a metal box.

The step drill seems to have an advantage, since it can make several size holes using a single bit.

What are the major differences between the two?

A knockout punch is typically capable of going through thicker metal - at the very least, it will do it faster. A quick search easily finds knock-out punches that can do 10 gauge steel, where most step bits don't seem like they'd do well beyond 16 gauge (though I can't find anything that really says the limit).

For thin metal though, the step drill bit is probably faster, if for no other reason than the setup/tear-down time of the punch (eg, after you punch the hole, you still have to unscrew the punch).

Knockout punch:

Step drill:


What is the best proportion mix cement, sand and aggregate to use in mosaics? I am pouring mosaic
concrete stepping stones to be placed in a city sidewalk. The mosaic will go face down into a form and the concrete poured from the back. I have been having problems with my test tiles in getting the sand to move all the way forward to the level of the face of the tile and have been ending up with air bubbles in the surface where I want it to be flat.

How can I alleviate this problem? Would pouring a mixture of just sand and cement first to fill cracks and then pouring the rest of the mix with the gravel behind it solve the problem or would it weaken the top surface of tile?

Normally I lay the mosaic on top of something with mortar, thin set or other adhesive and grout once the adhesive is dry. Not sure how to duplicate that with a concrete pour.

It sounds like a portland + sand mix (or bagged mortar mix) to mortar the tiles first might work. Fill the remaining form with concrete before the mortar sets so they can bond. A bit of vibration should help to fill in gaps. Not sure how well this would hold up to foot traffic over time.


How can I waterproof a shower wall after a repair? I have a small pipe leak in the shower wall, I need to chisel away the plaster and waterproofing to repair the pipe. Can I just waterproof that small area after doing the repair.

In my experience, this depends on the installation.  My experience is not huge.

Ideally, what you have is a well-waterproofed shower that otherwise doesn't have problems.  If that's the case, then you should be able to do this.  Take out the tile in an area bigger than where your problem is.  If you have a Schluter-type system behind the tile, then you can open the wall, fix the problem, and use Kerdiband to seal up your seams.  Keep in mind that you're going to have additional thinset thickness as a result, so you'll have to compensate while laying the tile back in place.  If you have some other waterproofing membrane, then probably something like Redgard is something you should get to restore the membrane.  If you actually do not have a membrane, but instead just have cementitious backer units (CBUs) behind tile or, worse, mold-guard , then be aware that your existing system isn't actually waterproof to begin with, but is instead moisture-accepting.  In any of these cases, though, the main thing is to take off way more tile than you think necessary so that you can not only reach the leaking pipe, but make a flat-enough wall of the same material and installation style, then lay the repair tile over the top.

Whatever you do, don't rush the effort.  Time for materials to cure is really super important, so don't ignore the barrier manufacturer's instructions.


Can I use sewer cleanout as washing machine water outlet I live in LA and we have a convenient sewer cleanout where I would like to place the washing machine. Is there an adapter for the cleanout to accommodate the outgoing water?
Thank you in advance!

Not a 100% definite answer (I am not a plumber or a code expert), but I would be concerned about a trap. Or rather, a lack thereof. A plumbing fixture - sink, shower, bathtub, dishwasher, laundry drain, etc. normally has a trap that fills with water and keeps sewer gas from getting into the building. A cleanout, by its nature, will likely have a straight shot down the drain pipe - i.e., you would not want to have a trap in a cleanout because it would make it much harder to clean out.


Tips on how to check if this guest house in ADU was built with permits? I am about to buy a house in Santa Clara, CA county that has an ADU. As of today ADU has guest house and an operational garage.
Seller is convinced that 990 sqft guest house in the ADU was built legally together with the main house under the same permit. Hence seller is counting guest house square footage in legal livable area.
However, I called county assessor and he told me that total living area for the property is only 4,180 sqft. This number exactly matches the main house and nothing else. Assessor also told me that property has 1,976 sqft garage. He said that they receive information from building department and permits while possible get seldom lost.
So, seller agent sent me this permit back from 1985, which I believe was issued at the time main house was built. He claims that this permit proves that 990 sqft guest house is permitted, because

"residence" in "residence+att garage" in his opinion refers to guest house and not to the main home.
seller claims that bathroom in ADU shows up on blueprints. And there would not be sole bathroom without guesthouse.

However, I am still unconvinced that guest house was introduced under this permit, because:

"residence" on this permit could actually still refer to the main home.
assessor does not have any information about this guest house at all.
it feels strange that guest house was introduced together with the main house but assessor did not know anything about living area beyond the 4,180 sqft.
if guest house is permitted then on this permit I expected to see number ~990 sq ft. OR
if I would subtract garage size (1,976 sqft as per assessor) from what I believe is the total ADU size (2,683 sqft), then I am left with only 707 sqft. So how could 990 sqft guest house be squeezed in a 707 sqft area?

How can I make sure that guest house is permitted? Does this permit in any way prove whether guest house was built with permit?
Update #1: Saw blueprints and it clearly shows that what they call as "Guest house" is actually labeled as "Work shop". If my understanding is correct, then Workshop does not count towards "legal livable area", but yet they still included it.

Very easy to resolve.  Have seller put in writing that the ADU was legally permitted when built.  He has put you on notice with "seller is 'convinced' that it was legally built."  If you accept that statement, you are making the purchase "as is" based on what he believes, not factual evidence.
Only if he puts it in writing that the ADU is legally built would he bear responsibility for misleading you if you later have an issue with the "ADU".
Ways to validate if ADU was built with a permit.
Go to the planning department and request a copy of the blueprint. The permits would not have been issued without the drawings. Also seller, claims the ADU is on the plan, so ask the seller for the plan showing the ADU.
Edited based on additional information:
The "guest house" was originally built as a "workshop".  Later converted into livable space, “ADU”,  conversion most likely done without a permit.   So your underlying questions has been answer.
Per your added comment, “If my understanding is correct, then Workshop does not count towards "legal livable area", but yet they still included it.”.
I do not believe there is a California law that regulates how a home's square footage must be calculated.  Livable space needs to meet certain requirements, i.e., heat, ceiling height, etc.”,   The bottom line is you are purchasing the “ADU” feature “As Is”. Whether you believe the seller should include it as part of the "livable" space is your opinion.  Even if the seller removes the footage as part of the livable space, the price would still be the same.


Best review sites/web resources for finding a contractor? Many times we need to hire a contractor and try to extensively google for reviews on that contractor. Sometimes to no avail :(

Just curious what web resources you use when trying to find a contractor? Be it a review site or some other method, what have you used in the past to identify the best person for the job?

I have used ServiceMagic (http://www.servicemagic.com/) in the past and been pretty happy with the results (I was able to find a good electrician through it), but that was along with checking up on the contractor through a Google search.  I wouldn't just trust a ServiceMagic reference without being able to find some other proof of the quality of the contractor.  I do not have a specific list but usually if the contractor has a quality website, business license, 800 phone number, etc. then they get some points toward being awarded my business.


Smart thermostat (high voltage) makes heater constantly on I have a smart thermostat (Mysa) I'm trying to install.

I have 2 hots coming into the gang box (black and red). These are connected to another black and red that goes into another box with another thermostat, and then i have a black and red going to the baseboard heater.

When I connect the Mysa thermostat (hot black to line in, load to black on the baseboard heater, and L2 to the red (which is also hot?) The baseboard heater remains on, like the mysa is not controlling it. If I switch the Line in on the mysa to the red hot then it doesn't turn the heater on.

Can i not hook this up with 12/2 wire? (I dont understand why both wires coming into the gang box are hot, where is the neutral?)

Thank you

It turns out the thermostat itself was bad and was creating a short between L1 and load, so whenever we turned on the breaker the heater was on at max. Verified this when switching around units. Will file a warranty claim.


Do GFCI protected devices need to be labeled as such, if they are protected from another location? I'm doing a fairly substantial rewire of about half my house.  In many places, like kitchen, bath, and outside/garage, I've replaced circuit breakers in my box with GFCI or dual function breakers.  Now I have outlets in damp/wet locations that are GFCI protected, but aren't GFCI devices themselves.  They were GFCI outlets, but I've replaced them with normal receptacles after upgrading the CB.

Is there any required labeling, similar to the "no equipment ground" stickers you see sometimes?  Or are these receptacles still required to be actual GFCI devices, even though the entire circuit is protected? (This doesn't make sense, but I've heard of sillier things). Of course, the inspector will tell me when they come out, but I'd rather get it right the first time.

Outlets protected by an upline GFCI require a GFCI Protected marking.  Several stickers come with every GFCI device.

You will never see a Code requirement for a GFCI receptacle.   You can satisfy all Code requirements with GFCI+breaker combo devices, or plain GFCI (deadfront) devices.

Putting a GFCI+receptacle combo device on a circuit already GFCI protected is silly.  You are playing a "Yo Dawg" joke on yourself.

Some very dull home inspectors will insist that nothing less than a GFCI receptacle will do, because he needs to see the TEST and RESET buttons.  However, that guy is right if there is no GFCI Protected sticker.


What compound should I use to fill drilled holes in cinder block? I have some holes drilled previously on my house that I would like to fill in. Do they make a liquid concrete in a tube compound that I can squeeze into the holes to fill them in and keep wasps out? Outer part of brick has stucco as well.

Quikrete mortar repair sounds like it would do the trick.


Does either capacity or body type contribute to a less noisy wet/dry vacuum? I'm looking at buying a wet/dry vacuum. So far I favor the plastic-body variety, because I'll be able to bang it a little while dragging it around through its wheels, without constantly worrying that the body is getting dented.

I also favor the smaller capacity ones, because I'm expecting that a pump labeled "peak 2 HP" will have more than enough power for my applications: cleaning the garage floor and the inside of the car.

Yet I'm concerned about the noise. I hate that the Hoover-branded one I use at home is awfully loud. Does a plastic body (instead of stainless steel) mean more noise in a wet/dry vac?

What about the volume? One reviewer writes that the larger the capacity, the lower the noise. That doesn't make sense to me. Could larger-capacity wet/dry vacuum indeed be less loud than smaller ones?

Not really. In my experience, fan design and exhaust muffling are the primary factors. Since most of the noise occurs at the fan motor, the vacuum collector doesn't have much to do with noise volume.


DIY Cleaning Solution for Quartz I have a water/castile soap/lemon essential oil mix I use for cleaning. We've recently moved and have quartz countertops at our new place. I'm having trouble finding information on what is/isn't safe for quartz countertops. Is the above mixture safe for them if wiped off with a damp cloth?

Quartz is a man-made product of natural stone components in a resin binder.   It is almost as heat resistant as granite (but the resin can be damaged) but is significant more stain resistant than granite.  It is not porous and does not have to be sealed as natural stones do.

That said, you should wipe up spills quickly with regular detergent and take reasonable care.  You're going to have to find out the actual manufacturer of your countertops to get an specific care recommendation, but there is no lack of generic sources on the internet.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-clean-quartz-countertops/