Identifying and crimping 2-pin connector What are these plastic connectors? They’re female and male counterparts. One has male pins and the other has female metal square-holed pin receptacles. What are these called? Here’s a side view and into-pin view. The wires are 20 AWG. They're for connecting to the solar panel and DC motor of a solar-powered attic fan. I want to make another pair. How do I crimp the wires into the pins and insert them into the connectors? What is the specific crimper called?

I have always referred to them as "Molex Connectors".  They are assembled by crimping the individual pins and inserting them into the plastic connector. The pins are crimped by a special tool. Using a generic crimping tool will result in a poor connection. A small tube shaped tool is used to remove the pins from the plastic connector. Unless you plan on doing many of these connections the cost of the tools makes it an expensive repair. A less expensive solution is to purchase the  connectors with a pigtail (a short section of wire factory installed). Then make the connection with a generic crimped connector available at most automotive parts stores.


Minimum setback for retaining wall Is there a minimum distance needed between a retaining wall and a home?

I've seen many homes with a sloped back yard, such that there is a 6' high above ground retaining wall between the backyard and the rear of the home, usually with a distance of 3-5' between home and wall.   I often wonder if the home could be built out back to basically incorporate the retaining wall as part of the building structure.

Are you talking about a retaining wall above the house's ground level, or below?

If above, you will need to provide enough clearance for any emergency exits but other than that I can't think of any limit. As for being built into the house, you could think of a walk-out basement as having a retaining wall on the uphill (non-walkout) side.

If you are talking about a wall below the house, you need to make sure you don't undermine the house's foundation. The distance you need to be away depends partly on the soil so if you are wanting to get close to the house (say, closer than 2 or 3 times the wall height) you would definitely want to talk to an engineer.


How can I protect a wall from flames of a gas hob? The flames of our gas hob scorches the wall behind it and the chipboard panel next to it. Is there any material I can affix to those sides to stop this potential fire hazard from happening?

Some sort of tile would do the job. If ceramic is too thick, or hard to install, adhesive stainless steel squares should be nicely heat conductive, thin, and easy to put up.

Example: https://www.google.com/search?q=Stainless+Peel+Stick+Tile.


New Window in Structural Brick House I have an old house (built in the 1940s) that is structural brick. I want to add a small window on the wall to the upstairs to let in a bit more light. Is it possible to add a window to a structural brick house? What special considerations would I have to take?

Anything can be done but it's hard for me to believe this is a DIY project. You will need to find a way to bridge over the window with an arch or header in such a way that the load is adequately supported. Also if the wall is important to the lateral strength of the building (and an exterior solid masonry wall probably is), you need to make sure the entire opening is framed out in a way that doesn't affect the shear strength of the wall.


Adding Cat6 & FType To Wall I know you can buy plates that have 2 Cat6 connectors and 1 FType, or 1 Cat6 and 1 Ftype - but what I am needing is 4 Cat6 and 1Ftype, I know that is an odd number so I would settle for 5 Cat6 and 1 F Type.

Since I see no plates already made this way, is there a way to "crate my own" that will give me this setup?

Buy a 6-port keystone jack plate, one blank (or plate may include 5 blanks) and the other connectors you want - it's a modular system. You click in the jacks you want.


How can I contain epoxy while it sets up? So I finally built my portable home bar but I would like to have a bottle cap bar top with epoxy coating. However, I do not want to add wooden edges to contain the epoxy when I pour it over the bottle caps because of the wooden molding design that is already present. So what would be the most effective way to contain the epoxy when pouring? If any members have bar-building experience either at home or for commercial "alcohol-serving" establishments, thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated.

I have built a few and I used casting resin.  i got it from a fiberglass boat builder. it set up very fast but is self leveling.  we let it drip off the sides and cleaned up the edges after it cured with a router and 440 and 1600 paper.  I have encased fishing lures, German coasters etc.  it cures hard as stone and very transparent.  It has to be poured monolithic and quickly.  We use plastic non stick auto body tools to move it around. The results are incredible. Like a 1/4 inch of glass.


Water sometimes come up in my tub, but my drain is not clogged.I in a condo on first floor of 14 story high rise Dirty water backs up in my tub sometimes,but my drain is not clogged.I live in a condo on the first floor in a 14 story high rise

Clearly your drain is clogged, but below where your sink joins the main drain; it is not fully blocked however.

If enough people run their sinks/whatever hits that line, it fills up and backs up, and eventually it will hit your sink.


Using an oscillating saw for long cuts The initial response to the proposition of doing 100-inch straight cuts with a cordless oscillating saw will be "are you mad?", but I still wonder.

I'm just starting out in DIY and decided to get a jigsaw for versatility. It can do flexible, it can do long straight cuts if you clamp on a guide (although it will be slow), etc.

And then a friend suggested I consider an oscillating multi-tool. It's far from ideal for the job, he said, but it adds a whole bunch of other features that a jigsaw can't do. And so it might be a much more versatile initial purchase. Even with 2x 100-inch MDF cuts needed in an upcoming project. Although he guesses it would be painful to do those long cuts, I would be left with a much more versatile tool he thinks I will end up using more than a jigsaw. And given the fact that I don't know how serious my DIY-ing will be in the future, it might be a better purchase.

I'm wondering what you guys think about this proposition. Does his rationale make sense?

The oscillating tool is NOT the tool for the job that you describe. Neither is the jig saw. The proper tool for long cuts like you describe is a circular saw with a straight edge guide clamped onto the work piece. Even better would be a table saw but that is clearly not applicable here.

Get the right tool for a job. Why compromise the craftsmanship with shoddy crap cuts made by tools that are not made for the application. Invest in the right tools, do quality work and be proud of the result. If you cannot give it that then hire someone that can provide it for you. There is nothing worse than a kludged up mess.


What is this row of sandy material in my wall? I am enclosing an outdoor alcove 120”x 70” and notice brown residue where the studs and drywall meet together- this is on several areas of the room and walls but there does not appear to be any damage to any of the wood.
I live in Northern California
If I touch it it easily falls off

Classic, typical termite tunnel. Brush and scrape it away and if you don't see live termites inside, then you don't have to do anything. Follow the tunnel up from the earth and down to see if there is any damage to drywall or structural members. Be careful in probing that you don't damage a water pipe, a drain pipe, or an electrical cable.


2x4 trusses and 5/8 drywall ceiling Here's what I have; 50 year old construction. 2x4 trusses, spaced 22" centers (2nd floor). Running 28ft in length with a beam in the middle (14ft).
For my ceiling I have nailed up 1" blueboard (Hard Styrofoam) directly to the 2x4 trusses.

Getting ready to hang my drywall. I have screwed in 1x4 furring strips every 16".  My plan is to screw the 5/8 drywall into the furring strips.

Question being: will my ceiling handle the weight?

Hello again, Sorry for being so confusing. I would send a pic If I was able.  I do not have pic of the trusses or anything like that at the moment. Yes, I do have cellulose (13") in my attic (rafters).  Picture if you will;  A ceiling that runs 28' wide and 38' long, with a 6" beam running perpendicular down the middle of the trusses (bottom of trusses). The trusses are made using          2 -14'  2x4's spanning the entire 28' distance, there is a beam smack dab in the middle where the trusses are fabbed together with 1/2" plywood gusset.  there was drywall nailed directly to the bottom 2x4 of the trusses at one time, I just don't know if it was 1/2" or 5/8".  So what we now have is 1" rigid foam nailed to the bottom 2x4 (bottom of trusses) and 1x4 furring strips screwed through the rigid foam and into the bottom trusses. Now comes the hanging of the drywall.  I am not so concerned with the 2x4 trusses holding the drywall as much as I am the 1x4's being able to hold without sagging. Is screwing into (say) 5/8 inch wood going to be enough depth to hold up drywall, Being that I have 5/8 inch going through the drywall as well.  It is old construction (50 yrs). So we're not talking normal. there isn't anything normal about this house.

The weight of the foam and furring strips is negligible. I'm not sure why you installed the furring strips unless you're concerned that the drywall will pull in when you screw it on, but they don't weigh much.

Anyway, the weight probably isn't a concern. Use lightweight no-sag half-inch drywall if you have reason to think that the ceiling joists were taxed originally, but the additional weight of an eighth of an inch of gypsum won't likely break the camel's back.


Upgrading to 200a Using a Subpanel I am being forced to switch my gas furnace to an electric one and need to upgrade my mobile home from 100a to 200a. I would like to leave the 100a panel with all the load connections that run throughout the house intact. Can I add the 200a panel box near the 100a panel, install a 100a breaker, then run the wires it to power the 100a panel box, creating a subpanel? I am also concerned about redundant breakers, the 200a main breaker at the meter loop, the 200a main breaker on the interior 200a service panel, the 100a breaker in the 200a panel that will connect to the existing 100a service panel, and the 100a main breaker on the existing panel, that my house is wired to. Will I need to have any of them removed? Yes, I plan on having an electrician do the work but I want to explore/understand all my option before I hire one. So my questions are 1.) can use a jumper wire to power my existing service panel, and 2.) do I need to fear having all the redundant breakers? And 3.) will I need to remove the ground from the sub-panel so that the 200a controls the ground? Thanks to all for any advice.

Yes, this can be done.

No, you don't have to worry about redundant breakers.

The bond between neutral and ground will have to be removed in the existing panel, but that shouldn't be a problem for the Electrician to do.


Drywall over phone line junction? I have a covered electrical box high up on my wall in my kitchen. I removed the cover and it’s telephone lines spliced together.  There’s no telephone jack just the splice.

I know you cannot bury normal house electrical wires behind drywall per code, But does that apply to phone wires too?   I’d like to just cover it up with drywall.

It depends.   I don't think there is code for low voltage wiring (someone please correct me if there is code) junctioned out of reach/in a wall.   Main reasoning here is that I have seen many many phone and security lines installed and have seen these guys splice together lines everywhere.   I don't think their companies would train them to do this if it were against code.

However..........  I have also got permits in a lot of cities.   No inspector I have dealt with will let me bury a utility access point in a wall.   And given that there may be an older owner there next that may use the phone lines in good conscience I would put in a $2 rubber box and a plate on the wall - they do sell paintable blanks for stuff like this.

(Alternative is just note the EXACT location - picture with tape on the spot.   Know that if you need to access it you will need to cut open the wall there.   Know that you will disclose this if selling the home.)


Sources for small metal tubing? This is more a DIY question than a home improvement one but I can't seem to find a beter place to ask:

I'm looking for small diameter metal tubing, specifically 0.159 ID, ~3/16 OD (the inside diameter is the critical dimension) in stainless steel or steel (or if anyone make it, any grade of Titanium).

Anyone know a a source?

Just to clarify, I'm not looking for a walk up retail source (I'd be slightly surprised if one could be found). Rather I'm looking for a supplier I can place an order with that will ship stuff to me. Also, the question is emphatically not "Where can I get the best price?" My quantities are so small that if price is an issue, the project gets canned.

A little background: A while back, I found that the ink tube out of a cheap Bic pen fits nicely in 0.159" ID tubing and that with a little cutting and capping, I could make a pen that fits nicely in a business card holder to make a great little note set. The problem is that thin walled aluminum tube isn't stiff enough to not bend when sat on so I'm looking for something stronger.

Heres the final product:

Try www.smallparts.com. I once got a quote from them for some .111 diameter aluminum balls. I see 0.15 and 0.16 stainless tubing. Ask if you don't see exactly what you need.


R302.7 Under-Stair Protection - does drywall need to be below stringers or just treads and risers? I am finishing a room in my basement, and a wall will butt up against where the stairs are. I'm planning on making a small door to access the volume below the stairs for a small storage area.

The building inspector said I needed to put drywall below the stairs for fire protection.

The stairs have a middle string. If I place the drywall over the stringer, that will significantly reduce the available volume.

Can I fulfill this requirement by putting two tightly fitting drywall panels in the spaces between the stringers, leaving the middle stringer exposed?

Text of relevant ICC code:

  R302.7 Under-Stair Protection

  Enclosed accessible space under stairs shall have walls, under-stair
  surface and any soffits protected on the enclosed side with 1/2-inch
  (12.7 mm) gypsum board.

Otherwise, simply "coating" the middle stringer would be a compliant alternative to maximize accessible volume, would it not?

Here are some pictures from under the stairs. The difference between the plane of the bottom of the stringers vs the bottoms of the treads and risers is a significant amount of space to store stuff.

No, you can't leave the center stringer exposed. That would leave a path for fire through the drywall. You must create a continuous break, with all seams taped.

I can't see an inspector flagging either of your other ideas, but you should probably just ask first. You don't want to do the job twice.


Playhouse Structural Question I have created a playhouse deck that is 8'x 8' and 5' off the ground. It is supported by 10' 4x4s on all four corners.

I want to place a 12' beam across the top of two of 4x4s in order to place a simple climbing rope.

Question:
Are there any charts or other guidance that I can use to determine:
1) Is this possible?
2) How much bracing is needed?

Simple in theory.  Assuming you are mounting the beam to the side of the post at the top.  You have an ideal situation for a cantilever.  It even follows the old rule of 1/3 (cantilever), 2/3 (back span).

To size it, find any floor joist chart and figure the span of 8'.  A 2x8 spans upward of 12'.

Load wise you will probably never hit over 200-300 lb on the rope swing so a couple 3/8"-1/2" through bolts at each post through the beam would be overkill.  With those loads, even 6-8 long screws would be more than enough (@ aprox 70-100lb+ per screw).

Biggest problem will be rot between the beam and the post over time as water gets trapped between the two.  For this we usually use the through bolts and put a small stack of galvanized washers (5-10) between the post and the beam.

As for bracing it laterally, using a wider member like a 4x would help.  So a 4x8 would probably be ideal, and a 4x6 should work well enough.  But then you need through bolts for sure.


How should I store my new Torx screwdriver set? I recently bought a 12-piece Wifa Torx screwdriver set, but am not sure how to store it. At first I thought of making a case, but that could be a lot of work and it would have to be deep, like 16 inches, so it could not fit onto a typical 11" shelf.

Another idea is to put them on wall in one of my work areas using terry clips, maybe, but I am not sure how well they will fit into the Terry clips. The screw drivers are a wide variety of sizes so I might need many different sizes of Terry clips if I did this.

The same sizing problem affects other solutions like canvas rollups. Also a rollup with 12 screwdrivers in it will be really fat.

Open to suggestions.

Tool Belt

Tool Bucket

Tool Box

Tool Chest

Tool Cabinet

Tool Truck


Freezer sides are hot all the time I have an upright freezer (Maytag) that's 2 years old. It used to work very quetly and with cool exterior for the past 2 years but in the last ~5 weeks, the sides / top are hot all the time (105 degrees F) and the freezer is running very loud. The environment is the same as it was before and the freezer is ~85% full (which is pretty constant). The freezer door is opened 2-3 times a day for a few seconds.

I had a warranty technician look at it, he didn't do anything other than telling me that this is how it's supposed to work. (I know freezers have to dump heat on the inside to freeze food but it seems unnecessary that it does this 10 hours a day every day.)

Does this sound correct or is it the case of a lazy technician? (He came without tools so he had no intention of repairing anything.)

It sounds to me like the defrost heaters are not turning off.

I can not tell you if yours uses a thermal switch or a timer to cycle them, my guess is for a mechanical switch not working anymore, and stuck in the on position.

I am going for the idea that the repair guy thought nothing about the hot sides/top, because it is normal for it to happen, and he decided yours were just at the on part of their cycle.

The heaters running produces more heat (never saw that coming, did you). The compressor is doing its best to get rid of the heat, but it can not really keep up with the heaters, because of this it runs much more than normal.

The compressor was never designed to run as much as it is doing right now. With the duty cycle now so high, the compressor is running loud. And around we go again.

A full freezer is a happy freezer, never a worry there (if all is working right).


Horizontal blocking behind cement board necessary on edges(wonderlite specifically) Using wonderlite cement board in my tub area surround, instructions say all edges supported? but almost every instruction video including their own doesn't show any backing behind the edges where the horizontal seams line up. Is this necessary or once the boards covered in thinset with FG mesh its as strong as the rest of the sheet?

If the framing is 16" on center or closer where the 2 long edges meet on the larger wall, I have never added any blocking. If the centers are 24", that is a bit of a stretch and needs to be blocked. I am presuming the narrow end walls are not an issue, since the sheet will go in vertically, and the seam will be above any reason to need blocking.


Can I add grout to existing grout to raise the level? I grouted my bathroom floor a few days ago and was running out of grout and tried to spread it out to cover. As a result there are a couple low spots. Can I regrout over top of it?

Yes. It should bond well assuming 1) the grout is still clean, and 2) you clear the surface of dust and debris. However, if the depth you're filling is extremely shallow, you may be better off in the long term by grinding most of the existing grout out first. Very thin layers of cementious material tend to flake away over time.


Can I install 6' 6x6 fence posts onto a cement driveway? We would like to install a 6' privacy fence with 6x6 cedar posts, between our house and driveway, that would involve 3 posts on top of our cement driveway and 1 in the ground.  My intention was to hire someone with a core drill to dig 3' holes for footings, and pour cement into 10" tubes, but I am now wondering if it is "ok" to just install the footings directly on top of the driveway.

I have not checked the depth of the cement yet, so is there a recommended driveway depth for this sort of thing, if I can install directly into the existing cement?  Or should I go ahead and get 12" holes taken out with a core drill and create 3" deep footings?

Also, is this a proper post anchor to use? It is the only type they had at our store.

[self-removed image]

A fence post has very little vertical force...mainly just the weight of the post and panels it holds. Your driveway slab would work fine as a footing for that. HOWEVER, the primary force on a fence is typically lateral--especially a 6' fence. The reason posts are put into the ground is to counter lateral forces on the fence (typically the wind).

I imagine there are types of brackets that could be used on the concrete to accomodate the lateral forces, but the type you have in your post is not that type...that's typically used to attach structural posts to concrete (it handles the vertical force, but not lateral).

The type of brackets you'd need would be something akin to a shelf bracket where there's a diagonal brace between the two plates.

So, one option is to cut holes in your slab and dig proper holes there. Alternatively, you could find plates designed for this (or have someone weld some up for you).

A third option would be to not build a straight fence, but rather stagger the posts in a zig-zag pattern.


Sink drain pipe won’t connect to trap Installing a new faucet in the bathroom.  The new drain pipe does not reach the trap. It is very close however.

OK, you're going to need a drain pipe extension attached to your new drain pipe. Remove the blue protective tape.  It might just be easier to replace your pipe with a longer PVC pipe rather than having to cut your pipe to fit the extension in.


What is ”semi-flush mount“ lighting I understand that ”flush mount“ lighting means the fixture hugs the ceiling.

What does ”semi-flush mount“ lighting mean? For example, this.

It's like a short chandelier as shown in your example. The "semi" can range from the shade being just a couple of inches away from the ceiling to usually no more than 12" away. Bugs love them.


Is it possible to install a low voltage motion sensor on 110v lighting? I am having a problem with my shop lights being kept on due to multiple people using the area. I want to install a low voltage motion sensor from an old security system but am unsure how. If it is not possible I will "bite the bullet" and buy one but am trying to do it without expenses. Thanks for your input.

Easy peasy, have the LV power operate a relay which switches the mains voltage.   Alternately you could use all low voltage LED lighting and avoid mains voltage entirely.


Honeywell TH6320R1004 Wireless Thermostat with Two Transformers I have a Honeywell TH6320R1004 and am trying to set it up to work with a second transformer (just added a Taco ZVC403 to an existing Taco SR503). The second transformer was needed to power the zone valves which was too much for the SR503). I'm hoping someone familiar with these Honeywell thermostats can help out.

The problem I'm having is that I can't get the call for heat from the Honeywell to register with my Taco ZVC.

The Honeywell is set to "2H / 1C heat pump" mode and had been using the Y terminal to call for heat. I reconfigured the R jumpers to split R+Rc from Rh. The Rh is now powered by the new ZVC. The circuit in question is in green in the attached image. Note, the Relay's 1 & 2 terminals are always closed in heat mode. The Relay Coil is energized in cool mode disabling the circuit, and I have the thermostat set to "O/B terminal controls valve in cooling".

I get 24v across the thermostat Rh and Y terminals whether or not heat is being called for. I also get 24v across the ZVC zone terminals.

Is the Y terminal closed with Rh when heat is called for in 2h/1c mode? I've also tried the G terminal (fan) with no luck. Just looking for what Equipment terminal on the thermostat is energized with a call for heat.

Any idea what the problem is? Thanks in advance for your help.

UPDATE
I also removed power to Rh and then tested ohms across Rh and Y and Rh and G when calling for heat. Nothing. I tested across Y and G and found continuity. It made me want to jump Rh and G and see if Y is then energized when there is a call for heat, so I did and IT WORKS - the circuit is energized and the ZVC received a call for heat on the Honeywell zone.

Seems like a crazy workaround, but perhaps I'm not the first to discover this. Now the questions:

What is the right way to do this.

With O/B terminal controls valve in cooling mode, how else can I get the Honeywell to call for heat? There does not seem to be any Equipment terminals on the thermostat which energize on Call for Heat.

When in cooling mode, will Rc (from one transformer) now connect to Rh (the 2nd transformer) via G and create a short? The circuit on Y will be open so nothing should happen on it.
Anything else you can think of?

I was able to get the system working by switching the thermostat from 2h/1c Heat Pump mode to 2h/2c Conventional Heat mode. The Honeywell's 2h/1c heat pump mode didn't support 2 transformers (and there wasn't a 2h/1c mode of any sort that did).

I had to swap the Y and the W wires on the thermostat (since it was set up that cool controls O/B which is opposite from conventional heat mode).

My biggest concern now is that the Em-Heat function is not available with this mode but is replaced by Stage 2 Heat and it looks like I can't control when Stage 2 Heat comes on.

With Em-Heat, I had Droop Control and set it to 5 degrees, but this is not an option with Stage 2. I've read that Stage 2 automatically comes on when there is a 2 degree drop, which isn't going to work. So I think I need to spring for a new thermostat.

The Honeywell THM5421R1021 EIM (using thermostat THX9421 or THM5421R1021) seems to have a heat pump mode supported with two transformers. Anyone have suggestions of a better thermostat solution?


Whitening floor grout (1-inch tiles) A bathroom floor's grout is to be whitened.  A Google search listed all sort of remedies including bleach, vinegar, peroxide, commercial solutions.

I would like to avoid having to use a brush and apply a solution with a mop or similar.  If you have experience excellent success with a particular solution, I'd appreciate hearing from you and any lessons-learned.  Thank you

I'd try a good bleach soak first. I have mosaic tile countertops with white grout, and a good bleach soak removes any of the evils my wife can dole out...


Turn on gas wall heater w/o electric thermostat We are having a power outage in much of Los Angeles right now, big storm (02/17/17 3:55PM). I have a gas wall heater, pilot is lit, but no power to the wall thermostat. Can I turn on the unit manually to get heat?

Gas Empire-style wall heaters use millivolt thermostats.  They have two wires going to the thermostat, and if those wires are connected to each other, that is a "call for heat" and the heater should fire.

So, you have a system that requires AC power?  Either it's not an Empire-style millivolt system... or somebody's hacked it in some weird way, e.g. to use a Nest style thermostat.

If they hack it like that, they should connect the new relay/whatever/thing in parallel with the original thermostat, and leave that in place for just this contingency.

Northeasterners/Midwesterners: This type of system is nothing like anything you know.  It is a closely held secret by Floridians, Pacific Coasters, and the northeastern HVAC cartels, and at this point, my job is to convince you that it doesn't exist.  Furnaces that can work on gas alone, without electricity?  Absurd. Just ask your HVAC distributor.  These aren't the heaters you're looking for.  You can go about your business.  Move along.


Replacing cabinet hinges but plates don't have matching screws I'd like to replace my cabinet hinges with soft-close hinges. I've read about overlay measurements, cup-depth, etc. I purchased a couple hinges to test and discovered that the new hinges have much smaller holes for the screws which attach the hinges to the inside of the cabinet.

The two holes at the top are the cabinet-side holes. The screw goes with the original hinge on the left - the soft-close hinges have much smaller diameter holes and the original screws won't fit.

This is a problem because the holes that are already in the cabinets from the original screws are larger than the screws that came with the new, soft-close hinges. So I can't use the new screws, they're too small and won't secure the door. The holes align perfectly so I can't screw in the hinge somewhere else or the door won't line up. I've searched for a long time looking for other soft-close hinges with larger holes but, for some reason, they all have the same narrow ovals or smaller screws.
I'm at a loss trying to think of a solution besides using a drill bit to open up the hole on the new hinges, but I know there might be a better solution than that. Thanks for your help!

Well, I have used two solutions in this situation:

open up the holes in the metal hinge as you suggest - quick and easy,

I have, with time available and planning, filled the larger holes in the wood with pegs or matchsticks that are glued in. Once dry re-drill the pilot holes and works well.


Can a portable air conditioner be used to reduce moisture in a room? I live in a flat in an older house and I have the disadvantage of living next to an outer wall. In autums/springs there is a period when the central heating isn't turned on yet, but it's already getting cold outside. During this time the wall (and generally air inside) gets quite moist and mold starts forming. Also the moist air makes it feel much colder than it really is (the thermometer shows 20C, but it feels like 15C).

Thus I'm looking at dehumidifiers and air conditioners. The first are cheaper by half, the latter are more powerful (according to spec) and can also be used for cooling the air in the summer.

But I really wonder how much I can trust the spec and how much it would really help. Does anyone have any experience with this?

I would consider a dehumidifier which will pull moisture out of the air. I'd also check into why the wall is getting moist. Are you sure there is enough insulation in the wall, because you definitely should not have moisture condensing on or in the walls.

An air conditioner will make the room colder which you probably don't want if the weather is already turning cold. The dehumidifier will pull the moisture out of the air without cooling the air the way an air conditioner would.

For the time being the dehumidifier should pull moisture out of the room for you. The specs for the appliances (dehumidifier or air conditioner) are usually fairly accurate, most notably on larger name brands. I've found knock-off and smaller brands to be a bit sketchy when it comes to performance, so I've learned my lesson and usually go for the larger more established brand names when it comes to things like this.


Can a PVC sprinkler pipe that is encased in concrete have restricted preasure due to the concrete? A metal post was installed  in concrete for a fence. There is an existing PVC pipe that controls the sprinkler  that is now in-cased in the concrete that was poured for the post.
Can the concrete that was poured cause a restriction in the flow of water?
If so what can be used to prevent that from happening? What could have happened if I had full pressure before the concrete was poured and now I have very little after it was poured?

If the pipe was collapsed it could create an issue but normally it will have no effect on the flow pvc pipe is tough enough not to collapse even with several feet of concrete over it.


Ceiling fan with light. My ceiling fan does not work. I have a ceiling fan light and the fan does not turn. It just hums but the light works.  What can be the problem?

If it hums then it's getting power to it. A very common thing for them is when the bearings (or bushing) in the motor get dry and begin to stick. A friend of mine had his house catch on fire because of a stuck fan motor. Sometimes it can be lubed (fan turned off) by spraying something like WD40 around the motor shaft right behind the fan itself and then turning the fan by hand until it frees up. The other way is to replace the unit and be sure.


Plaster Walls Cracking above air vents My house was built in the 1950's and have plaster walls. I am in the process of repainting and have noticed that the plaster above the baseboard air vents has cracked above almost every vent in the house. What could cause this? Moisture in the air coming out the vents?

That probably happened in the 1950s, not long after the house was built, especially if you have wood lath and not gypsum panels. The corners of the cutout for the vent create weakness, and normal seasonal house movement results in cracks.

Rub some painter's caulk in there before you paint. Doing more than than will probably just make it look worse unless you completely redo the drywall. It's one of the traits of older homes.


Dog door in a glass french door? We'd like to put in a doggie door (22" high) into or back patio door so our dog can go out to the fenced in patio when she wants to. The door is a French door like this one, the door on the right opens, the door on the left is fixed in place:

Is there any way to put a doggie door in this style of door? We'd be ok with putting in a platform or step up to the level of the glass in the door, but is it possible (and cost effective) to have a door shop remove the bottom portion of the glass and to install some kind of bracing to support the door?

This is a Condo, and we'd rather not put the door through the wall since that requires HOA approval (and is more permanent than a french door that we could replace upon moving out). We'd also rather not replace the left door with a solid wood door since we like the light from the window.

Any other options? Depending on how costly it is to put a door into that glass french door, we've thought about putting in a sliding door and using a sliding door style pet door.

This is possible, but its not going to be cost effective unless you can do a majority of the work yourself.  The door pictured (and any door sold in the last decade) will have two layers of insulated glass.  This means that for what you want, you'll need a custom insulated panel made to fit on top of a wooden panel containing the doggie door.

There are companies that make door-glass-replacement packages for pets such as these:

From petdoors.com.

A more cost effective solution might be to use a single layer of thick glass as a replacement panel, but you would loose some insulation properties, and you'd need a wooden frame to hold it into the door (because its not as thick as the original).  Smaller pet doors are made to fit into a round hole cut into a glass door, providing a very clean install.  Larger 22" tall doors might not be an option for this method, but great for people with "cat flaps".

Last option I can think of is replacing the large panel of glass with a custom made divided-light panel made up of several small windows.  You may be able to find off-the-shelf insulated glass panels or have single pane glass cut more economically.  The doggie door would simply be framed in place of a lower glass panel.


Is this 230v motor wired for 115v operation I have the following wiring diagram for the motor I am replacing.

After looking at the wiring as shown here, I see one black and one purple wired to the terminals. There is a second set that is just wired together & has a wire cap on them. Does this mean the motor I am replacing is wired for 115V operation? My end question is, can I replace this motor with a 115V motor?

A 120v motor cannot be installed in place of the motor shown.  This is a single voltage PSC condenser fan motor nominally rated for 200-230v only and it is not intended to be wired for 115v.

Also, there is probably no 120v circuit available in the location where the motor is being used.  Double no.  In other words, hooking up a 120v motor in place of this unit would be a no-no.

This is a very ordinary condenser fan motor with compatible replacements stocked by many supply houses.  When replacing this motor, the run capacitor should also be replaced at the same time because run capacitors are often in poor condition by the time this type of motor fails, and the new replacement motor may require a run capacitor that is a different size than the original.


Proper base for stone walkways The stone walkways around my house have all come apart to various degrees. I'd like to find a solution that will last for at least a few years. Is pouring a concrete base the right way to go? Or is there a less costly/labor-instensive solution that would work just as well?

With proper drainage and base material, no concrete is needed.
Without proper drainage, concrete will (also) fail (at least in a freezing climate.)


I just polyurethane 700 sq ft. of hardwood flooring I waited 48 hours for the floor to cure, got on it with knee pads and left impressions. Some slid and wrinkled. How do I repair these spots. I have about 7 of them.

Oil based? 48 hours should have been plenty of time. You sure it's not water-based?

Either way, give it another day or so. Rub out the sins with some 220 by hand, making sure to feather it out. Re-poly just the affected board (s).

If that doesn't fly, I know you don't want to hear it, but recoat the whole floor.


What type of centralized home control hardware is available? I recently got excited about the idea of creating a web software to run locally for my home that could be accessed via computer, smart phone, or tablet, which would give me complete control over most of the house's functions.

I went ahead and wrote the code to control a virtual home that's displayed on the site to show your changes instantly. The virtual home responds great, however, I'm a bit stumped as to how I can implement many of the features into a real home. I already added function calls to empty functions that are supposed to change the actual hardware, however, I haven't written any code for them because I'm not really sure what's available and how I could implement it. Here's a few of the main features in the virtual home that I need to connect to and control via the server, so essentially I need a way of controlling these features from a computer.

LED Lighting:

I'd like to be able to install LED lights with color changing capabilities. I've tried LED lights in the past, and they don't quite work for this application for a few reasons:

Narrow beam. I'd like it to spread light like a normal lightbulb, rather than having a beam of light.
Color selection. I wrote the code to basically take colors in an RGB hex format, so I'd like a bulb that can do millions of colors, not just 16.
Dimming options. I've seen bulbs that have like 255 different light levels, and I'd love that capability.
Effects. If I could fade, flash, etc. from color to color, that'd be cool, or at least be able to do it using code, even if it's not built-in.

While these are fairly major, obviously the biggest problem is finding a way to individually control the lights via computer.

Speaker Control

I'd like to install speakers throughout the house that can be controlled to play music from a centralized library, but more importantly, I'd like individual control of which speakers play what, so different rooms could be playing different songs simultaneously. Again, this would all need to be controllable from the server.

Automagical Appliances

My wife was fond of the idea of being able to turn the oven on or off remotely, so she could access the house's server from her phone through a purchased domain name, and get the oven heating before she got home, or make sure she hadn't left it on.

Basically, if you know of any way to control various appliances and capabilities of a home via computer(preferably low-level commands, such as in a console), I'd love to see what options are available, and possibly expand the capabilities of my software.

What you're looking for is home automation. X10 is probably the most popular technology system for this, but that Wikipedia page lists a number of alternatives.

To address your specific areas of interest:

LED lighting

There may be pre-built solutions out there, but as you're already writing custom software, you may want to look into using something like the Arduino platform to control your lights. Done correctly, you should be able to get the effects you're after. I found a tutorial about how to do a simple LED system that may be useful.

Speaker Control

There are actually a number of systems out there for home media distribution, such as Linux MCE (it took awhile to load that page when I wrote this, but it did load without timing out). You may be able to use one of these, or work some of the code in from one to duplicate the functionality (MCE is open source). The most simple solution is to use small appliance computers that run a very lightweight Linux solution (like MCE) that stream from the base computer. There are actual streaming devices out there, but I'm not sure how well they would integrate into your automation/control software. If you literally just want to run speakers, you'll need multiple sound cards in the base computer to differentiate between the feeds.

Automagical Applicances

This is where the home automation tech comes in. Using something like X10, you have the ability to flip switches, monitor their status, etc. There are appliances out there that will talk some of these languages, allowing you to control them remotely. A quick search turns up an Engadget article pointing out LG Thinq devices that are accessible via WiFi and ZigBee. If you program your software to speak ZigBee, you should be able to integrate these appliances. Given the number of different protocols out there, you'll probably want to find your devices, try to settle on devices that use one protocol, and then write your code to speak that protocol, but you can also work with multiple protocols if you don't mind developing for each. I believe Linux MCE supports a few of those languages, and since it's open source, you can expand it to support whatever you'd like.


Is it a good idea to use a Fernco repair fitting within a finished wall cavity? I have an unfinished basement, and I installed a redirector for my sump pump output so it can be drained to the sanitary sewer during winter months (and yes, I'm paying for the right to do so, and I'm following the rules :)).  I installed a wye in the vertical drain pipe, and I needed a way of reconnecting said pipe after introducing the new fitting.  To do this, I took a section of the 3" pipe, glued it to the top of the wye, and joined it to the original pipe with a Fernco fitting (specifically, this guy).

The question: is it safe to leave the Fernco fitting in place and enclose it in a wall when I go to finish the basement?

I wouldn't say its a great idea in my opinion - but on the other hand, using a coupling is generally code compliant.

I'm not a huge fan of those repair couplers, but they are usually approved for joining like materials underground if they're fully sheathed (the coupling is surrounded by stainless steel - called a mission coupling) so I don't see why it would be a problem in the basement unburied.  Whatever you do, make sure you properly cement that coupling in place.

I would call the inspector on that one, just to be sure.  Something like this is one of those plumbing code issues which varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.  When dealing with sanitary sewer piping, I wouldn't scrimp out on a fitting just to save a few bucks... the thought of a potential sewer joint failure in your basement is too awful to imagine.


Modifying a plastic electrical box for structured wiring usage I'm building a new home and wished to install structured wiring (2 cat 6, 2 rg6 and 2 fiber optic cable). In pricing the orange open front and rear boxes, I found them ridiculously expensive. The open back is need for extra wiring.

My question is: it against any code to remove the back on a plastic box to accommodate the structured wiring. Would it have to be painted orange?

It doesn't affect fit, form or function.

google MPLS. that's what we use in commercial buildings it's also called a "mud ring"...basically a thin metal ring that is threaded to hold the faceplate on. use a level, trace an outline, (very carefully)cut  hole with a drywall saw, bend the tabs align the screw and tighten down. holds like 10 lbs in drywall. least expensive option, can't see it when faceplate is installed.


No water pressure in heating circuit I  have a natural gas hot water furnace and I can't get heat. First I turn up the temperature at the thermostat and I hear the furnace turn on, the supply line gets hot and half way down the line it stays cold. I tried getting the air out of the line but now I have no water pressure. I don't know if the pressure was at 0 before I even started.

It sounds like you fill valve is not properly set, or has failed. Do not run the furnace until you are sure the system (boiler shell, circulating pipes, and radiators) are completely filled with water.

If the water level in the boiler gets too low the system could be damaged. Boilers usually have a fuse plug that limits the damage if the water level fails, but that plug cannot be reset and is expensive to replace.

A typical circulating hot-water heating system has an automatic fill valve connected to the house water supply, which admits water to the system until the pressure rises to a preset level. (Usually the level is set to match the total height of the system.) This valve can become blocked by a tiny amount of shmutz in the supply line.

Sometimes you can clean and reset the automatic fill valve but sometimes you have to replace it.


How can I get the sink trap to clear the drawer under my bathroom sink? Is there a better solution to a P-Trap? We have installed a new vanity only to find that the drawer contacts the p-trap.
The vanity has 3 drawers. The top one is built in a "u-shape" and goes around the drain pipes. But, the next one down still hits the P-Trap:

My other attempt was to use a flexible P-Trap and angel it to the side, But I don't know that this would actually work.

I'm really trying to avoid cutting a notch out of the back of the drawer if possible.Is there a better way of doing this?

Put a notch in the back of your drawer. If you do it carefully with a hole saw or jigsaw it'll just clear the pipe and not look terrible. I like to make the notch and then run a router with a roundover bit around it.
The only other option is to raise the drain inlet in the wall.


Does it matter what kind of pipe is used for a sink drain? The drainpipe in our sink broke (corroded right through in several places). Not having the time to find my pipe wrench (much less actually replace the pipe) we called a plumber. The plumber replaced the drainpipe with PVC (under the theory it would be immune from corrosion).

So I got to wondering: Is there any reason to prefer one kind of drainpipe to another? I know that for blackwater lines you need to make sure the urine won't corrode the pipe, but for a kitchen sink does it matter at all? I could even use lead pipes since that water will be treated before anyone drinks it, right?

There are two main factors that determine what is used:

Code requirements (as well as the project's specifications)
Cost

ABS and PVC are the cheapest, however there can be limitations with their use in larger buildings due to fire code requirements.

Where fire codes requirements limit the use of plastics, either cast-iron or DWV copper is used for the piping above ground switching to either Chrome or Brass p-traps for the sinks. However depending on the authority having jurisdiction (usually the local inspector), PVC or ABS p-traps may be permitted within the sink cabinet.

XFR-PVC is a kind of fire resistant PVC, and does meet flame and smoke spread requirements and, depending on the project, may be allowed to be used instead of Cast-iron or DWV copper where metal is typically required.

Chrome plated metal is also used for wall hung sinks where the p-trap will be left exposed.

Labs that use chemicals and acids typically use either glass or special acid resistant plastic pipe and p-traps.


Do I need plumber putty or would the already existing rubber gasket seal this sink leak if installed properly? I had working kitchen sink until today when I had to remove and reattach sink garbage disposal. I am trying to figure out what is the quickest, but still acceptable solution to fix the leak that I just caused.
In most videos I have seen that plumber putty is applied form inside of the sink and nothing else. I suppose I disturbed it.
But in those videos that use plumber putty I have never seen anyone use a rubber gasket. However, my sink has a black rubber gasket installed from the outside of sink as can be seen here on top of the flange:

Unfortunately, in my case the Moen 3 bolt sink flange has only 2 out of 3 bolts. Not sure why one bolt is missing.
So my questions are:

Do I still need plumber putty if I have this gasket? Maybe I rather need to install the 3rd bolt and then rubber gasket would prevent any leaks once even pressure is applied?
If I still need to apply plumber putty, then can I silicone caulk or paste or anything else?

Update#1 some users said they could not see the gasket in the original picture. So I disassembled the Moen Garbage Disposal Flange. I am still not sure that I understand what is the purpose of that gasket from the bottom as garbage disposal top is already rubber and it pushes against the bottom of tall cylindrical part ensuring seal on bottom. And on the top there is plumber putty making seal. Could it be that this rubber gasket was actually intended to be used as substitute for plumber putty? I imagine that if in previous configuration the plumber putty would fail then water would simply still flow around this rubber gasket serving no purpose at all.

By having one bolt missing you actually prevent a seal from being made.  The two bolts you have only apply pressure on one side of the flange, effectively separating it on the other side.  I doubt you will ever get a reliable seal under this scenario.  As Solar Mike recommended, install the third bolt.
Regarding plumber's putty: the putty is a good idea because it is flexible and is not susceptible to cracking the same way a rubber gasket is.  That being said, whether you use putty or gasket ultimately comes down to the fitting type.  Fittings that have a lot of surface area (and are not pressurized) like the strainer basket are ideal for putty.  On the other hand, if the surface area of the seal is small then a gasket will get the better seal...provided it has all the bolts.
From your picture I cannot tell where the gasket is (maybe I can see it if I squint) but I'd say that if it came with a gasket then you need a gasket and you need that third bolt.
Regarding use of silicone: I advise against it.  It may get a good seal (may not!), but it is designed as a more "permanent" solution.  If you ever take the disposal off then you will have to clean all the silicone off before reinstalling otherwise you may not get a good seal.


How can I remove ductwork that is butted against a foundation wall? I need to remove the existing ductwork in my basement to install insulation behind it. I'd like to do it without destroying the ductwork. The vertical duct is right against the foundation, so I can't pull it off the end of the pipe:

What's the easiest way to do this? On the other end of the horizontal duct, it goes into the top of the main trunk, so it's not any easier to disconnect on that side. Do I just need to suck it up and hacksaw through the round duct, and replace the cut piece?

Chances are the end of your horizontal stack into the box has a lot of tabs that are holding it together.  I would leave this in tact.  I would remove the duct tape (that shouldn't be used for ducts) and release the two pieces of horizontal duct that are being held together with said tape.

These are probably just smashed into each other and chances are you won't even have to have tools (maybe a screwdriver if they put a couple of small screws in) to remove this.  Once you break these two pieces apart you can add insulation on your wall.

Note about the insulation - Please please focus on the lack of insulation I see in your joists above the cement going all the way around.  This is way more important that insulating the walls of your basement.

Once you have insulated you may need some tin snips to cut back an inch or two on one of the horizontal ducts.  You also may be able to smash the duct into each other sufficiently - this depends on how deep your insulation is.  Also if you don't want to deal with cutting metal most big boxes will cut a sheet before they sell it to you.  Not sure which one I would take them but possibly the one on the right.  But anyway these are dramatically easier to cut when unrolled.


5 amp circuits because of LED lighting There are multiple parts to this, but they are connected..

1) With the advent of LED lighting 15 amps is overkill for a dedicated light circuit. A 16 AWG 300-ft-max circuit could be run off a 3A breaker. That would permit 36 x 10 watt lights.

2) Are there any designated lamp sockets that only LED lamps could fit. eg E4, GU 7.5 or whatever. This would make ceiling insulation less of a problem.

This is an interesting question or whatever. Here's some info.

1) NEC Table 240-.6 (A) lists the circuit breaker trip ratings starting with 15 amps, and NEC Atricle 240.4 (D)(3) tells you you need to connect a #14 AWG conductor to it. Point is your asking why can't we change a standard, and to start the electrical community would have to rewrite a lot of the NEC and then manufacturers would have to embrace it. I would say good luck on trying to get all of that done.

2) Actually reference the last comment that just came up. When you design fixtures just for LED's just like compact fluorescence(see the biax or type PL base lamps), you design them with a specific base that you cannot interchange. Everything else you are looking at are retrofit items that replace an old technology with new. In the meantime we must design lighting loads with the highest rated wattage the fixture will accept whether it is an incandescent or an LED.

Hope this sheds some light.


Why do type 2 SPD’s* require overcurrent protection (*load side, mains, Surge Protection Devices) Bought a house built in the 1970’s in a 1970’s neighborhood. It has a 200AMP main panel. A serviceman replacing 1 of the 2 mainboards in the refrigerator suggested that I install an SPD inline in each circuit that has electronics because he’s had very many calls to replace electronics in this locale due to many transient spikes and power surges. He considers our power supply “dirty”.

It would be easy to add an SPD to the service panel. It’s possible with some rearranging to add (depending on model) the 220V 20, 30 or 50AMP breaker required to install a Type 2 SPD that will cover the whole house. I’m curious why the device requires this overcurrent protection.  Thanks.

The overcurrent protection is for when the SPD itself evenutally fails — failing shorted is a fairly common occurance.


Electric wiring in a kitchen island My contractor installed wires for an extra outlet in my kitchen island that I do not want.  Can I just leave that wire in the cabinet and not install the outlet?

Depending on your jurisdiction and building permit, you may be obliged to install an outlet.

If you're legally permitted to not have one, then just cap the wires in a closed approved junction box that is 'accessible' within the cabinet. (I put accessible in quotes because it doesn't have to be really easy to get to... just don't put it somewhere -- like underneath the toekick -- that requires actual disassembly for access.)

Do the future you a favor and don't cut the wire back.


Can't get my AC to turn on at all Recently our AC stopped working. The thermostat is working properly, but the unit just started blowing hot air. I've never worked on a AC before, but I was trying to save some money. Anyway:

I started with replacing the capacitor on the unit, after completing that I turned the power back on but still nothing. I pushed the plastic piece in on the contactor and the unit came on, to include the fan. Once I released it the system shut off again. I went inside and checked the breaker box and noticed that two fuses had blown, replaced them and went back outside to see if the unit was running and it was for about a minute then it stopped. Fuses had blown again.

I asked a guy at the AC parts place and he said it could be the fan motor, but he also said it may be the contactor. I replaced the capacitor, fan motor and contactor. The new fan motor had 4 wires and the old had three. Brown, brown/white, black and yellow wires. Instead of using a dual capacitor for the brown and brown/white wires I just capped the brown/white, attached the brown to the F on the three prong capacitor I installed earlier and connect the yellow to the C and the black the line 1 on the contactor.

I made sure everything was secured and all plugged in. Everything looked good and I replaced the fuses in the interior breaker box. Turned the main power on outside, but nothing, fuses did not blow on the inside and thermostat was still working inside. I can't figure it out. Any ideas?

Sounds like a blown compressor.
Bad contacters don't usually pop fuses. And if it was simply the fan not coming on, the compressor should trip its own over-heat, not your breakers (unless it's old and grumpy: same prognosis; dead compressor).
If I were to keep trying to fix at that unit, the first thing I would do is install a "fused" (circuit breaker) disconnect for the condenser outside and a convenience outlet (both are now required by code).
That's step one of installing another unit, so it's no big loss if that doesn't help the diagnostics.

Air Conditioner Not Cooling : Tripping Breaker And Blowing Fuses –YouTube

My suspicion is we've got a bad compressor. Let me go grab my multimeter and get this thing tested out. Again, I'm going to go ahead and discharge the capacitor and then pull all the leads off the compressor. Then I'm going to go ahead and leave the fan motor connected and test. If this doesn't blow the breaker then that means our compressor's bad and it's time for either a new compressor or as old as this unit is, it may just be time for a whole new unit.
... It is as I suspected; the compressor's got a short in it. We're going to need either a new compressor or a whole new condenser unit. If I wanted to, I can recycle the fan top, the fan motor, and fan blades. That's a little bit more advanced troubleshooting and proving that it's actually our compressor that is down. We can replace the compressor if it's a clean change out. On this one, I think it's probably just maybe time for a new unit.

I've replaced compressors on commercial units (whose construction is conducive to such); it's not a very common practice for split systems, because that's  the same amount of work, and you'd still have old equipment throughout.


Why are my fluorescent lights not working sometimes? I have a fluorescent light fixture in my kitchen, which uses u-shaped tubes.

A few weeks ago they just stopped working. I could turn the switch on and there'd just be no light. Not flickering which I've read indicates a bad bulb. No buzzing sound, which I read means the ballast is bad either.

To make things weirder, a couple days ago I absent mindedly flicked the switch and the lights came right on! Today they worked fine when I got home from work, but after cooking I turned the lights off... when I tried to turn them on again an hour or so later they wouldn't come back on.

So what could be causing this?

EDIT: I should note that I installed new bulbs and they didn't work until the other day... and now they've stopped again.

Confirm your wall switch is good. Bad switches can be intermittent.
Turn off the switch and take the tubes back out and
put them back in making sure they're fully snapped in. It's worth a
try. Don't go buy more, but if you have other new tubes try them.
If the lights work for a period of time and go out on their own,
that usually indicates an over-heating ballast - replace the
ballast.
Otherwise, the best test for a ballast is just what you did, try new
tubes. If no luck, replace the ballast.
While replacing the ballast, make sure all of the wires in the
sockets are well connected. Give them each a little tug. If you can't get a
wire to stay in a socket replace the socket, maybe replace all 4.
Fluorescent lights need to be grounded to work properly. Make sure a
ground wire is attached to the fixture. I've seen fluorescent lights, especially in old homes, where the people say they're always replacing tubes, and it's because the fixture isn't grounded.
If you're going to replace the ballast or the entire fixture
consider going with an electronic ballast maybe even T8 size tubes.
Amazon sells the smaller clips you'd need for a retrofit to T8 U-Bent tubes - ASIN
B00A3WGR0W.


What is the correct way to share a washing machine receptacle with a printer? I live in the U.S. in a townhome (not free standing) built in 2012.

I want to put a laser printer in the laundry room and use the outlet currently occupied by the washing machine. It's a designated circuit for the washer; the double-pole breaker in the box is 30A. -- I'm sorry, I have no idea where I got the idea it was a big breaker like that, I must have been looking at the dishwasher breaker and got it confused.

The washing machine circuit is 20A, single pole.

The sticker on the washer says it's 10A 120V 60Hz.

The laser printer says it's 110-120V, 50/60Hz and 9A.

It's a standard U.S. 3-prong outlet with a little notch off the left prong (which is not used by the washer).

So, can I just use a standard outlet splitter or do I need to consider the power draw or some other effects?

Washing machines require dedicated circuits. This code excerpt implies that the only receptacle available for a washing machine should be the one that the appliance itself is plugged into.

  210.10(C)(2) Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one
  additional 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply the
  laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by
  210.52(F). This circuit shall have no other outlets.

Source: 2008 NEC, the latest version I have, but I know this requirement has not changed meaningfully since then.

In general, any high-powered AC motor or electrical heating element (washing machine, refrigerator, garbage disposal, dishwasher, microwave, etc.) should be on a dedicated circuit. These tend to draw a lot of amps, and AC motors spike above their typical current draw when starting because they have to charge some pretty big capacitors. For example, an AC motor that draws 12 amps might spike at 18 amps when starting. If you already have a load on that circuit, you may trip a breaker (maybe not - they do not necessarily trip because of a momentary spike - and the circumstances that cause them to trip is a little more complex. Best not to tempt fate).

The correct thing to do here is one of the following:

Use a different circuit that is available in that location.
Run another circuit for the printer. As laser printers can also cause a current spike and I have actually seen them (personal experience) cause lights to fade momentarily, a dedicated circuit for one is not a bad idea, even if it is not required.
Plug into another circuit elsewhere in the house, possibly using an extension cord to move the printer where you want it as Iggy suggests. I recommend using a heavy-duty extension cord capable of carrying whatever current the printer requires over the full length of the extension cord. Too often I see people use dinky little extension cords that work fine for lamps, but will overheat under high loads such as with laser printers, power tools, yard equipment, etc. If the extension cord is exposed at all, you also want it to be durable to avoid damage. Personally, I only buy heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension cords capable of carrying 15 or 20 amps, even for indoor uses.


Hot water is potable? I have some vague, probably erroneous memory of seeing some hot water fixture that said it wasn't meant for potable water, which made me believe that residential hot water in the USA may have different standards than cold. It might've been something related to the hot water heater. I know things like garden hoses and spigots do NOT meet the same standards for potable water and often have labels that make it clear.

Anyway, does hot water plumbing meet the same standards as cold water?

There may be other reasons why you don't want to drink hot water (eg, it might leach more easily), but I'm just curious about the standard practices in the USA.

Residential hot water in the USA is potable.

Source: (CIC) National Standard Plumbing Code 10.1 QUALITY OF WATER SUPPLY
a. Only potable water shall be supplied to plumbing fixtures used for drinking, bathing, culinary use, laundry use, cleaning, or the processing of food, medical, or pharmaceutical products


Power a dust collector 2 different ways Looking to power my dust collector in a way where with using a light switch in one position it is running constantly and the other position power is running through a power foot pedal to activate the outlet. but I am looking to keep the Dust collector plugged into the same outlet all the time.

You should definitely not build that as drawn. The plug for the foot switch side will be electrified when the selector switch isn’t set to foot switch mode, and plugs should never be electrified.
Also beware that physical arrangement of wires matters. All the current-carrying conductors (both hots and the neutral) must be in the same cable, conduit, or raceway. You can’t have, say, some 14/2 for the always-on leg and a single wire loose a foot away for the switch side. You end up creating an electromagnet with heating and mechanical stress effects if you do that.
You also can’t have parallel conductors - running hot and neutral pairs for both the always-on leg and the foot switch leg and joining them at the receptacle is not allowed (maybe ok if you use a double-pole mode selector switch though).


Do 22.5 degree pipe fittings exist? I'm trying to make a triple-monitor stand using steel plumbing pipe, as I've seen this done by others in the past. Most designs call for 45 degree pipe elbows for the side monitor arms, but this seems to be way too extreme of an angle for my purposes. I've been unable so far to find any other angle sizes of pipe elbows.

This doesn't answer your exact question, but why not use a pair of 90 degree elbows to make an adjustable hinge. The first elbow would go vertical, and the second would return it horizontal. Then you can create any angle you'd like.


How to fix damage to my fence door's latch? I have a wooden fence door with a metal latch. As shown in the below picture, something happened recently that caused the metal latch piece (and some of the attached wood) to separate from the fence door.

I want to fix this because the separation makes latching the door difficult. What is the best way to repair this? Might applying wood glue, along with using a large clamp or vice to push the separating wood back into position, repair this?

I would,

unscrew the latch and remove it,
apply wood glue under the broken piece,
clamp it and let it dry for an hour or two
drill some deep pilot holes through 95% of the thickness of the whole gate
reattach the latch with longer screws .

I would consider using bolts instead, with washers to spread the load on the far side.


Commissioned to build a row of lights, want to make sure I'm doing it right/ no easier way I'm building a set for a theater group and they want me to build a row of lights to go along with it.

They want it to look as though a row of Edison lights, 5' high and sitting atop 1/2" black pipe, were sprouting out of a wooden base.

After researching, I have a few ideas of how to do it with rattle canned RMC (see attached picture), but I've been having problems finding cross style Rigid Conduit Bodies... most seem to be (at most) Tees.

Otherwise, my plan was to use Leviton lamp holders fitted into a 1-1/4"x1/2 bell reducer, connect that to the 1/2" RMC, and through the wood base. Below, I'd connect each pipe to the rigid bodies, a short nipple down to a floor flange, and 6" gal pipe connecting it to the rigid body next in line.

I hope this makes sense.

Please let me know if I'm on the right track or if there's an easier or safer method.

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can give.

Just a possible alternative, if I read you right the conduit bodies in the box are out of sight.  Mount a piece of unistrut on the back wall of your box, and clamp the rigid pipes to the unistrut with strut clamps.

Put a 5' wireway in the box fastened to the base or back of the box.  The pipes will come in the top of the wireway.

You should really consider using low voltage lights, this just makes everything safer and gives you much more flexibility.  You can find low voltage lamps that will fit the Edison base, or just use a different base.  You could do this without the wireway if you were so inclined - just splice the 12V wires in your wooden box.  You could epoxy the sockets in the black pipe if so inclined.  You could use actual black pipe with floor flanges.


Will adding blown-in insulation to my floor cause a moisture problem? I have a bedroom above my garage. The builder insulated the floor with R13 kraft faced insulation, leaving an un-insulated space in the floor. I was thinking of blowing insulation in the empty space that is between the floor and the kraft side of the insulation to insulate this area. Will this cause a moisture problem?  The garage is not heated and is finished with drywall.

Should not cause a moisture problem. Cellulose has interesting and useful properties with regards to moisture movement on the one hand, and the vapor barrier is still going to be on the warm side unless there's a lot of space.

Essentially, cellulose has been tested multiple times to have such low air movement through it that it effectively does not need a vapor barrier.

Blowing it in without tearing the Kraft face may require a good deal of care.


Before blowing in wall insulation, is it better to remove old rock wool insulation? We're going to blow in fiberglass insulation to improve the exterior walls we haven't had an opportunity to upgrade—after ten years of remodeling projects we've modernized about 60% of the walls.

The walls we've stripped to studs have batts of rock wool, a black fibrous material made of "fiberized" rock and steel slag.  The house is typical construction for the 1950s one-story ranch houses in the Pacific Northwest (North America) but also includes a "luxury upgrade" (for the time) of this rock wool.  The markings on the facing says either R-5 or R-7 (one or the other thickness was used in various portions of the house).  They are nominally 1.5 to 2 inches thick.  (After removing the drywall, it is a no-brainer to remove that sickly-looking insulation and install modern R-13 fiberglass.)

We had one contractor bid $1400 for the job, but we would have to do prep (remove furniture and fixtures) and finish the job (they'll put plastic plugs in the drywall holes but we need to clean their mess, then mud, texture, and paint.  I asked if they would remove the rock wool:  they said "No.  We blow beside it which provides extra insulation."

What are the arguments for and against removal of old insulation?

I can’t think of any good reason to keep the existing insulation in the wall.

Blowing in insulation in walls that are already partially insulated will not produce a uniform layer of blown in insulation. In fact, there is a good chance the old rock-wool insulation has sagged in the wall cavity and will block the installation of the blown in fiberglass insulation uniformly to the stud space.

The option to remove the wallboard will allow the removal of the original insulation in order to provide a uniform layer of insulation. In 1950 the stud depth is 3 5/8” (rather than the current 5.5” depth now) so you want it to be as good as possible to get the maximum R-value possible with the limited stud depth.

Also, be careful of the old electrical wiring that it’s not disturbed in either option.

However, in either case you’ll want to test the 1950’s wallboard for asbestos.


What is the best short-term solution for fused neutrals? I have inherited a house that has been in my wife's family since 1860.  I do not know when it was electrified, but it seems to have skipped knob and tube.  There is a lot of fabric-covered wire, and also some more modern romex wire.  On examining the fusebox (yes, fuses, no breakers) I see that both the hot leg and the neutral leg have fuses in them.

My long-term strategy is to replace the fusebox with a modern panel with breakers.  In the short term, I have purchased 30 Amp fuses which I intend to install in the neutral fuse positions.  (The hot-leg fuses are 15 or 20 Amp.)  My thinking is, since the hot-leg fuse is of a lower rating, it will blow instead of the neutral leg fuse.

Is this an acceptable solution?  Is there a better way to ensure a continuous neutral leg connection?

I understand the theory of what you're trying to do, but I also understand the theory of the electrical installer that put fuses on both wires.  You still have a wire running through the house that is only designed for 15-20 amps even if it's the neutral that should be fused via the hot.  If there was ever a short that resulted in 25 amps going down the neutral, you could be looking at a dangerous situation.

My suggestion, if you want to fix it, is to go all the way and modernize the wiring with a full rip and replace.  Although the reason I avoid older homes is because I would end up ripping and replacing so much that it's cheaper to get the newer home (think insulation, wiring, windows, weather seal, etc).  And until then, if a fuse blows, don't assume the wires are safe unless you have personally removed the hot fuse.


Sealing, Priming, and Painting a Window I have a house full of wooden windows with some old flaking paint. The wood is quite solid, the glass is intact and not fogging. I was planning on scraping the windows and repainting them. My question is, should I seal the wood, then prime and paint, or are some of these steps unnecessary.

First advise is not to use any "sealer" on window frames. Paint won't normally adhere well to wood sealers.  If possible, I like oil based exterior primer, even two coats so your frames are well covered.  The you can use any good latex exterior trim paint.  Remember, prep is very important, and you cannot use oil based primer over any latex, so if you have latex, you must use latex primer or BIN's Bullseye pigmented shellac.


Create new patio door in basement by cutting concrete My basement has about 2.5 ft of concrete along the wall. The reason is that the outside is a slope/hill and that 2.5" depth is just dirt. I like to install a patio door to my backyard 60x80 which is a typical size. My question is if I cut the concrete in the bottom of the wall, what do I have to consider?

My picture below:

For example, do I need to build a concrete foundation underneath and extend it out by digging the clearance area outside? How do I deal with the king stud (just two 2x4 enough?) and how is the requirement for header?

I would hire a structural engineer or an architect to draw up plans so you know exactly what you will need to do. You need to know just what you can cut and the loads involved including any prep work and temporary building support.


Burn stain on unknown countertop material Yesterday morning I placed a burning hot stainless steel frying pan on the countertop in the house I live in. I got distracted by other things and I am pretty sure it stayed there for a while. Upon removal, I discovered a perfectly circular heat stain on the countertop. I don't know what material the countertop is made out of. I included pictures of the stain and the area around it, as well as the edge of the countertop.

Today, I tried scrubbing it with baking soda and water for about 20 minutes but I didn't see any difference.

Any idea on what kind of material this countertop is made out of and/or any ways to remove the stain would be really helpful.

The owner mentioned it's not quartz, granite or marble but didn't say what it was.It looks like it's a plastic cover on wooden material.

Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

This appears to be a laminate such as Formica, which cannot be repaired from heat damage. Your only option really is to replace the affected portion, either with another piece of Formica or with some kind of insert like a cutting board, trivet, etc.

You might also be able to put a new layer of laminate over top.

This video from This Old House shows some methods for replacing the affected portion.


Studs 16 inches on center, but extra one between two of the studs with electrical outlet? Is it normal for there to be "extra" studs for electrical outlets? My house is 16in spacing but on this particular stud the next stud is 4 inches. And then the next one is back to 16inches.

It's as if they were complete with 16 in spacing and someone was like, we need an outlet RIGHT HERE let's add a stud, rather than just putting it a few inches over on the next stud.

When I do home projects I ALWAYS run into stud issues like this and it makes it really confusing.

Here is a very fast crude drawing of what I have:

Edit: Thanks all for your replies. It's not a huge issue was just trying to wrap my head around reasons. I am not a builder just a homeowner and I occasionally do smaller projects and was trying to get more understanding behind things that don't make sense to me :)

There is a laundry room behind this so maybe they added it for something there, although that wall is blank, there's no light switches or plugs on it (it's the side wall not the plumbing side of the wall)

This is a long 20 foot room and wall so the only thing I could think of is they did not way that plug all the way to the left although putting it over 4 inches doesn't seem like it would make much diff :)

Oh well - I will just run with it and just assume there was a good reason :)

Do you guys think it would be safe to cut out about 1 foot on stud #2. Since three are studs every 16 inches except this one particular one added in between, wonder if I could get away with it? I am trying to add a in wall shelf here but the spacing is too narrow due to the extra stud and I was wondering if I could cut it out.

I think the stud is near one of the ceiling beams (not sure what it is called, the one going from the joists all the way up to a ceiling point)

I never waste a stud for a receptacle. You may commonly find extra studs in on or close to corners or where walls join but To put a stud in for a receptacle unlikely, receptacles have spacing requirements 12’ between them or no point more than 6’ from a receptacle with continual walls (no door ways etc). But there is no minimum spacing they can be next to each other.


What causes uneven floors and can they be fixed? I've seen two distinct cases.

In the house I currently live in, the largest room in the basement has a floor that is uneven. Basically it dips lower towards the middle of the room. I presume this is caused by the foundation beneath settling.

When I went to view a room for rent, one of them was on the top most portion of a large old house. The room itself was small but after a minute I noticed it was slanted, yet the floor itself was even. It was quite an unpleasant sensation, visually the room looked to be normal but you get the sense of imbalance. The current tenant told me he had sheets wedged beneath one corner of the bed to compensate. What would've caused the floor to be like this? Tangent: in the same room there was a small fireplace. Isn't it odd to have a fireplace on the top level of a house and in a bed room?

Is there anyways a slanted floor can be fixed? In the second case the floor was made of wood.

Although it is impossible to say for sure without seeing the floors in question, I suspect it is a simple case of poor construction practice. The basement floor is most likely over a concrete slab. The floor may not have been leveled with framing. You did not mention what type of flooring was there, but I suspect the tile or carpet was applied to an uneven base.  The upper story floor was most likely built long ago on the existing joists, with the same un-level results. In either case, the only way to level these floors would be to frame a new subfloor level, then install new flooring over a properly installed subfloor. There is no trick or shortcut to fixing situations like this. This can be an involved and expensive project, not a good DIY for amateurs.

As far as the fireplace is concerned, if the room in question was originally designed as a livable space, it is not uncommon to see a small fireplace. Before the days of central heating systems, many older homes (100 yrs ago) had multiple fireplaces. The concern by today's standards is if the assignment of flues is correct. By that I mean, how many and what type of combustible devices share a flue. There are strict rules on what fuels can share flues and an what elevation in a house. This is important as fumes or CO can invade through a flue from one device to another. Again, this would have to be inspected for safety.


Mildew resistant mud need for bathroom? I'm installing the green sheetrock (moisture-resistant) in my new bathroom. Is green mud and tape recommended or required also?

I haven't heard of green mud. For our bathroom, we used Densarmor instead of greenboard. The issue with moisture and sheetrock is the paper. Greenboard uses a waxed paper. Densarmor (and the like) use fiberglass instead of paper. I used the fiberglass sheetrock, fiberglass mesh tape, then standard joint compound. I then painted with a mildew resistant paint.

In the end, was it worth it? Well, it was probably overkill. Most mildew issues in a bathroom are the result of either a) direct water contact (shower area) or b) complete lack of ventilation.

When we did the bathroom, we also installed a high-quality ventilation fan (there was none previously) and a timer switch (to make sure it stayed on long enough after a shower). That, alone, was likely enough to prevent mildew issues.


Best way to move/extend wall-mounted outlets when finishing basement? We're getting ready to finish our basement. The basement is already wired for electricity with wall-mounted metal outlet boxes.

However, the existing boxes will be way too shallow once the insulation and framing are put in. The existing box is 1.5" deep. We're planning to put in 2" XPS, and I'm told the chalk line for the top and bottom plates should be 4" in front of the insulation. So that would put the front edge of the framing 6" from the foundation wall. The guy at the hardware store suggested I use box extensions to bring the box out further. But the extensions are 1.5" so I would need to use three of them to bring the box out to 6". That seems a little awkward to me, and I have to do this with 8 outlets.

Are extensions the best way? Or can I instead remove the existing box and replace it with one that will mount to the frame stud? Should I use metal or plastic? Would I need to extend the conduit to reach the new box? Or should I just bite the bullet and call an electrician?

In any case I will also need to extend the wires, as there is not enough slack.

This is so easy, you'll laugh.

unfish the cable out of the last segment of conduit
pull the conduit off the wall
use a conduit bender to put a slight S- curve in the conduit,  so it's out from the wall 4.5" more than it was.
put the conduit back on the wall
fish the cable back in. It will still reach! It is still the same length as the conduit.

Now, the junction box is 4.5" proud of the wall, and 1" or so higher up the wall.   Build your wall, make sure to include a hard point to mount the junction box.


CAT 6 Shielded and High Voltage I am working on a project to provide networking data to a food production line. All of the power (both 120 & 220 volts is run in a chase approx. 15' long and the chase is roughly 8"s tall and 6"s wide. Instead of having my networking Keystone Jacks cut into a sheetrock ceiling tile above the production line I am wondering if I can run 4 CAT-6 SHIELDED network cable in the same chase that contains the 120 & 220 Romex and just cut in my keystone jacks with stainless steel wall plates on both sides of the food production line in the proper places I need to to be able to connect 4 video controllers to the store network?

Nope!   class 2 (low voltage) wiring cannot be in the same raceway as line voltage.


Can activated carbon eliminate odors in a bedroom? http://www.ehow.com/how_5656042_use-activated-charcoal-odor-neutralizers.html says that it can eliminate odors, but it only recommends it for small spaces.

When researching air purification you will come across a popular subject.

Ionisers VS Ozoninzer VS Activated Carbon

Ioniser

  An air ionizer (or negative ion generator) is a device that uses high
  voltage to ionize (electrically charge) air molecules. Negative ions,
  or anions, are particles with one or more extra electrons.

This makes the air particles that get ionised turn into a 'magnet' because it is statically charges. You know like when your arm hairs rise to a piece of statically charged paper or sweater.

Advantages
Is silent and can run anywhere in your home. Does not cause any health problems, it actaully good for people with allergies as it binds to dust and pollen. It will remove smells like cigarretes,smoke and other slight odours.

Disadvantages
These particles don't evaporate into thin air.. once the ion binds to its victim it will drop to the floor, or stick to the wall.. in turn if you don't vacume(use a HEPA filter vacume) or clean your walls; overtime the odours can become worse and your hosue will suffer from static dust.

Ozone generator

  Ozone (O3) or trioxygen, is a triatomic
  molecule, consisting of three oxygen atoms. It is an allotrope of
  oxygen that is much less stable than the diatomic allotrope (O2).
  Ozone in the lower atmosphere is an air pollutant with harmful effects
  on the respiratory systems of animals and will burn sensitive plants

Ozone has this myth behind it that it kills bacteria and smells. In fact it is very dangerous for all living things.. In large quantities. As far as I know.. ozone has no benefit in any health methods.

Advantages
Only industrial advantages.

Disadvantages
When used in small rooms it can be lethal, causes lung damage and can kill other living things like plants

Activated Carbon

  Activated carbon, also called activated charcoal, activated coal or
  carbo activatus, is a form of carbon that has been processed to make
  it extremely porous and thus to have a very large surface area
  available for adsorption or chemical reactions.

Quoted Description

  Filters with activated carbon are usually used in compressed air and
  gas purification to remove oil vapors, odors, and other hydrocarbons
  from the air. The most common designs use a 1 stage or 2 stage
  filtration principle in which activated carbon is embedded inside the
  filter media. Activated charcoal filters are used to retain
  radioactive gases from a nuclear boiling water reactor turbine
  condenser. The air vacuumed from the condenser contains traces of
  radioactive gases. The large charcoal beds adsorb these gases and
  retains them while they rapidly decay to non-radioactive solid
  species. The solids are trapped in the charcoal particles, while the
  filtered air passes through.

Advantages
It is highly porous and can adsorb gas,chemicals and liquids in various sequences and reactions. has no side effects.

Disadvantages
It does stop absorbing once its saturated.. and could start to realease other harmfull gases if not replaced. You cant just put a carbon block in your room and expect it to adsorb air, it needs a pumping system or filtering system of some sort.

I hope that can answer your question a bit.

I would suggest finding the source of the smell and eradicating it with bleach/soap and/or other freshers/cleaners/chemicals. Then vent your room for 24hours.


Wall frame weirdness during renovations so I am renovating my garage and noticed something in 2 spots along the frame when ripping down the drywall.

Here is a photo:

The walls of the garage have stood for many many years without major issue, but I am just not sure what I should do here. It looks like when they dropped the anchor bolts for the wall frames, they put a couple to far out so they just slapped a piece of 2x4 on the others side of the bolt.

I am not even sure it is actually supporting the wall.

I am mainly curious if I should be concerned and what to do when I go about putting up the new drywall, having this piece of wood stick out is an eyesore.

Your hunch is correct - the anchor bolt in the picture obviously isn't doing a whole lot. If the scabbed on 2x4 bothers you, just remove it, cut the existing anchor bolt off flush with the concrete, and put in a new anchor through the center of the base plate.


How do I wire a 3 wire receiver unit to a ceiling fan that has 6 wires from the fan unit Original switch was a mechanical wall mounted (plugs into an electrical outlet) push button switch (3 buttons for each of 3 speeds, 1 button for the light, one off button and one slide switch for reverse and forward.

Ceiling fan has 5 wires plus a ground. The wires from the fan/light are as follows:

Red to left side of capacitor
White to right side of capacitor
Blue is connected directly to blue from power supply wire
Grey & black are joined and then connect directly to black on power supply wire
Green is directly connected to green ground on power supply wire
Red from power supply wire is connected to right side of capacitor
White from power supply wire is connected to left side of capacitor

I need to connect to this a remote receiver (to be connected to the fan) the receiver has a hot and neutral in and 3 wires (Fan, light and neutral) out.

Are you in Europe?  Blue means neutral there.  America doesn't use blue, neutral is white or gray.

One of those wires must be "hot" for the lamp.

All the other wires are speed control of the fan.  By connecting, isolating or cross connecting various wires, you get various speeds.  The old switch knows how to do that.

The new receiver does not.  It expects to only switch the fan on/off and "something downstream" manages speed, e.g. with a pull cord.  If you want that functionality, you either need a receiver that supports all those wires, or find a way to move or add the proper speed selector switch to the fan proper.

You might be able to retain the old speed selector switch, and have it takes its power from the receiver instead of from always-hot.  Then the receiver would control off/on, and the old switch would control speed.  That may mean putting the receiver next to the old controller instead of up at the fan.  Identify the lamp wire, and bypass that on the old switch and let the receiver control it directly.  However there's a risk to that: most fan control switches force you to start the fan in "high".  That's because if you start in "low", it may not have enough torque to start turning, and sit there stalled overheating the windings. It's best to use only products listed/rated for that purpose.


Do I run screws through the "tops" or through the "bottoms" of the corrugated steel in roofing? Suppose I want to cover a roof with corrugated steel sheets. Imagine a sheet laying on the roof. It will have "tops" - zones that are further from the roof surface and "bottoms" - zones that are closer to the roof surface (the line is the sheet cross-section, the roof is below the line, the outdoors is above the line):

I need to decide where I run the screws that will hold the sheet.

In case it was roofing slate I'd definitely run them through the "tops" ("B" on the drawing) because when it rains water will run along the "bottom" and into any hole it finds there.

However seems like the typical approach with corrugated steel is to run the screws through the "bottom" ("A" on the drawing) which puzzles me a lot.

Which do I choose - A or B - in case of corrugated steel and why?

A

If you choose B you will dimple the steel, ruining the look while creating a penetration point for water because expansion and contraction of the metal due to heating and cooling will create an open access point for water to enter, and a big opening behind it to receive it.

A, however, will give you a tight seal against the wood, wood-steel-screw in a nice tight sandwich - resisting expansion/contraction gaps and thus protecting much more effectively against water penetration while preserving the look of the corrugated steel


GFCI not working with shared wire I am replacing an outlet in my kitchen and if I replace a regular outlet with a GFCI it and the kitchen lights stop working. If I put back the old outlet or a new "regular" outlet everything works.

The way the old is wired is the top white is one wire stripped and looped around the top screw. Black is opposite where the bottom is one wire stripped and looped around. From what I can tell it's tied in to the kitchen lights because they stop working as well if I use the GFCI.

I used the GFCI in another location and it works, so I think it has to do with the looped around wire.

I  removed the tape and wired up the GFCI in the same way.

Pictures of each side of old.

So did you wire the GFCI "the same way" which would mean ignoring the warning tape and connecting (probably) hot to the LINE hot and neutral to the LOAD neutral? [less probably the Hot to LOAD hot and the neutral to LINE neutral, given the "usual" interpretation of "top")

That won't work and would tend to explain the problem.

Try connecting both wires you have to the LINE terminals, ONLY, and see what happens. Ah, your pictures indicate that you have more wires than you mentioned - still, the problem is almost certainly due to the fact that the two screws on a "normal" outlet are tied together (unless the "tab" is broken, usually on the hot side only, which is very common in kitchen outlets wired as a MWBC - but usually that brings a red wire into the picture.) The screws on a GFCI are different - one set is the LINE where power comes in, the other set is the LOAD and normally under protective tape in hopes that the person installing it will realize that they are different than normal outlets.

You can wire-nut all the whites you have together with a short white (commonly known as a pig-tail) and connect THAT to LINE neutral, and wire-nut all the blacks together with a short black and connect that to the LINE hot, which should work.

It will likely also work (and GFCI protect something else, but we don't know what yet) if you put one "set" of wires on the LINE and the other "set" on the load, rather than "crossing" sets as you have it - i.e. probably the "looped" wires are a set, and the end-stripped wires are a set, and one or the other of those is also the connection to power - I'd guess the looped set, but that's just a guess. If it does not work that way, swap sets and try again.


What are the pros and cons of vinyl gutters? I need to add some gutters to part of our house and I'm seriously considering vinyl gutters because they seem REALLY easy to setup (with minimal tools required too).  That being said, I've heard some people say they're more prone to problems such as leaking.  Is there truth to this? If so, what alternatives would be appropriate for a newbie home owner?

The weak points in any guttering system are where the various sections join. If the gutters aren't fitted correctly then any system will leak.

So look for a system that has an easy to fit joint, or perhaps one where the joints are bonded.

As long as they have the capacity to carry the volume of water you expect then any correctly installed system will be OK.

One more thing, make sure you maintain them. Check them at least one a year to make sure they're not blocked, more often if you have overhanging trees. Don't lean your ladder on the gutter itself. Lean it just below or get a device to push the ladder away from the wall.


Hot Water Pump Too Sensitive to Cold Water Pressure I use a hot water pump for my shower (it is not a combi boiler). The pressure and temperature are excellent on taps but when I switch it to the shower it is fine for a minute and then starts getting cold. The issue is that it is too sensitive to cold water and a very small change in cold water tap makes it frozen or very hot!!! the issue is just in shower.

this sounds like a problem with a thermostatic balancing valve in the shower valve.  you may have to pull the cartridge and clean it out or replace it.  these valves use a setup that can act strangely with time and gunk.  start with the simplest thing first.