Sewage pump turning on without any sinks or toilet installed In my home I have a sump pump and a pump referenced as a ‘sludge pump’. Even though there  are no bathrooms or sinks in the basement, the sludge pump kicks on occasionally. Why is this happening? And why do the pipes ‘hammer’?

Some systems are controlled by plc's programmable logic controllers that automatically pump every zone to make sure that a level sensor failure won't have your lower level floating in poop. I omit cyclic pumping or have with triple redundant sensors, I have seen 2 die but never all 3, it just may be the safety to prevent a very smelly situation. If it is a diagram sludge pump one than can pump almost solids ever firing if the pump makes some noise, you may not need this level of protection but if you do and it is not working things can go bad fast.


Powering a Sonoff Touch from mains I purchased a Sonoff Touch which requires a three-way wiring system for lights, however, I only have live-neutral and no ground in my old house.

As you will see in the second image this is the circuit diagram of a livolo light switch which uses a half wave essentially to regulate the ac and use that dc to power its internals. I would like to know if there is a way to power a sonoff in a similar manner? Any other solutions would be appreciated! Thanks in advance

It is not possible to install this product without a neutral wire.

First of all, the word "way" in switch terminology means something specific, and in your question I believe you refer to wires coming into the wall box.

What you require is a neutral wire, a live wire (line), and the continuation of that live wire up to the light(s) (load), which is what we're switching. To purely switch the lights on and off, you would only need the live and load wires, but because the Sonoff is an electrical device, it needs the neutral wire to draw power for its internals.

Despite the confusion over wiring standards and colour codes, this Reddit post culminates in the conclusion that it doesn't work in the absence of a neutral wire: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/7l19a3/will_a_sonoff_touch_duel_gang_switch_work_with_my/


Why did I lose power to half the house when the breakers did not trip? Using a voltage detector I determined that three breakers in the panel are not conducting voltage, yet they are fully on (not tripped).  Thinking they were bad, I replaced a double throw 15 amp and a double throw 20 amp in the box.  Flipped them on, still no power coming out of the new breakers.  What could cause this?

First, do the easy-to-check steps:  does a device that should be on still work?  Is the "on" switch on?  Is it plugged in?  (Children are often noted for unexpectedly changing these.)  If the device is plugged in somewhere else, does it work?  Does a portable device known to work properly suddenly not work in the alleged "failed" outlet?

Next, are you sure the breakers have not tripped?  Many manufacturers build them so that they do not visibly change when tripped.  To be sure, turn the lever all the way off and then back on.

Three circuits!  There is very little in common such that only three circuits with three separate breakers are all affected.  Maybe there are more?  Are there any other circuits which are on the same bus in the breaker panel also not working?  That would indicate a bus being disconnected, probably by a loose wire inside the panel.  A visual inspection with the panel cover off might be helpful.

Also possible—maybe probable—is that some neutral wires have come loose in the panel.  Turn off the main breaker and give all the wires a wiggle, being very careful not to touch near the service wires or where they connect to the main breaker.

Maybe something changed recently?:  Electrical work, ground work, utility work.


Nail gun driver doesn't return after firing The hammer on my Bostitch SB 1664 fails to return to fire position. Did take out a wrong size nail since the jam it has failed. Can you tell me what the problem is?
Thanks, Owen S

Make sure the supply air pressure is within the pressure range specified by the manufacturer. If the supply pressure is too low, there may not be enough pressure built up to return the piston to the firing position.

Also make sure that all the vents are clear, and unobstructed.  If the vents are blocked, it could increase the resistance on the returning piston.  This added resistance, can prevent the piston from returning to the firing position.


Possible to add 240V plug to my condo electric outside? This is obviously not something I plan to DIY, but just curious if it is feasible.  I'm in a third floor condo and wondering if I'd be able to setup an EV charger by my parking, which happens to be near the main electric supply for the building.  My plan would be to have a box with a 240V plug, like a NEMA 14-30, that I could plug a mobile J1772 in to when needed.

As you can see, there are meters for 6 residential units.  I'm on the bottom left of those, with one 100A breaker off the meter in the box just to the left.  Ideally, I'd run a 32 amp charger, but could definitely get by with 24 amps.  Hot water is provided by the building, so interior electric needs are minimal.  A 30 amp breaker for the dryer, 30 amp for the stove.  I have no problem no charging the car if we happen to be using those simulanteously.

Let's assume I get buy in from the HOA.  Don't want to start the conversation if it's not going to work anyway.

You can tee off it, with 100A rated wire (3Cu/1Al).

Also, the run to the apartment will have to be upgraded to that.  It is no longer entitled to the 83% "whole service" derate, since it's no longer carrying tge whole service.

And then, carry it over to a 100A subpanel.  There, you have appropriate breakers for your charger.


How do I replace a GFCI breaker with a normal breaker? I have a breaker on my panel that has 2 white wires and one black and a test button. I am changing to a breaker that has no white wires going to it just the black. Do I put both white wires to the bar or only the bigger one?

First, it sounds like the old breaker is a GFCI or AFCI, and the new one is not. Changing types like that is likely a code violation and can compromise the safety of your electrical system. Do not do this unless you know why a GFCI or AFCI breaker was installed and that you have removed the conditions from that branch circuit that required their installation.

Second, since you are asking this type of question, you likely don't have the experience to do this safely. At this point, I recommend you hire an electrician.

If you insist on continuing and have confirmed that it is safe to remove the GFCI or AFCI breaker, then start by tracing the white wires. One should be going to a bus bar in the breaker box and the other should be exiting the box with the black wire. Disconnect the one wire from the bus bar, and connect the other one to the bus bar in its place.


Expanding a window downwards in a brick face I understand that expanding a brick window is an expensive operation, and I was wondering what went into such an operation. We have a window in the front of our house that we want to expand downwards, which involves cutting into the brick facing of our 1960s house. The quote for just the masonry work by window companies is in the range of $2500, and that seems a bit steep to me, being that we aren't widening (requiring adjustments to the roof supports) or expanding upwards. Is this is something viable as a DIY project? Or are there special considerations that make this the realm of a specialist?

Removing bricks is easy.  It's putting them back up, properly, that takes some skill & experience to do right.  It's been my experience that anytime you have someone do brickwork for you it gets expensive.
But in your case, if it were me, I would use a circular saw with a concrete cutting blade on it and just cut the bricks below the window vertically along the edge of the new opening, like this:

Then just chisel out/break the bricks off along mortar joint and remove as many rows pf bricks as needed.
Frame in for the new window with appropriate attention to weather proofing.  It looks like that might be a load bearing wall, so there's probably a header above that window that needs to be handled properly.  This post was mainly addressing the brick removal question.  There are a fair number of videos out there that walk you through the details of replacing a window.


Is pressure grouting of a wall-crack, a good or potential solution? Some of the walls in my house, have developed cracks, which are 2 to 4mm wide. One crack, runs diagonally, from floor level to about 80% of the wall height, and other cracks run along the window frames. The house is built on a concrete beam and column structure, but apparently the foundation in one corner has sunk a bit, due to heavy construction in close vicinity. The impacted walls, are not load bearing walls.

I am planning to paint my house, and wanted to fix these deep cracks prior to that. I've been told by few people that pressure grouting might be an acceptable solution, and wanted to check. Reading around the web, I see pressure grouting involving drilling big holes (about 2-3cm dia) in the wall, and grouting them, but couldn't figure out the purpose of doing so. Also, I've seen some photographs showing grouting attempts of the foundation itself by pressure-grouting deep holes near foundation. So, the process, and recommendations aren't clear.

Finally, does grouting / pressure-grouting require specialized tools, equipment and skills, or can one attempt this DIY ?

Edit:
Forgot to mention that the cracks in question, appear on both sides of the wall, so it is not just a crack in the plaster-work.

Edit2:
Building is not old - about 7 years. Cracks developed about 3 years back, and I think I've not seen them grow in the last 1 year.

It is a potential solution.  Buildings will settle and they usually do around 2-5 years of structure being built.

The question is, is this normal structure settling or does this building have some issue that will cause it to move more.  It hasn't moved in the past year so I could really go either way with this.

Pressure grouting could work.  It will allow very little movement but some.  The worst case scenario is you have hairline cracks a year or a few years later after doing this.  If water isn't an issue and you can live with the small cracks than I give this a strong maybe.

I would normally suggest going with an epoxy solution that would be stronger and have more flex.


How can I hang a ceiling fan with a 3/4 inch difference between the junction box and bracket? I've taken down an old ceiling fan for replacement and found the octagonal junction box to be approx 3/4in above the ceiling, it isn't flush with the drywall which the new ceiling fan bracket mount requires.

I've searched everywhere for a 3/4in deep octagonal extension and can't seem to locate one.  The shallowest extension I've found is 1 1/2in which is too deep.  The building is old and I don't feel comfortable taking down the old junction box because there are many other wires running through it other than hot and neutral that supply the fan.

Is there something I can pick up or buy online that can make up the 3/4in difference?  I know I should just use an extension, the problem is I can't find one that is 3/4in deep.

There is a 3/4" extender sold by Cooper Industries (and maybe others). They call it a cover. This site sells it and it probably can be found elsewhere online.

You need to be sure that the box in the ceiling is firmly attached to the framing, preferably directly screwed into a joist. Fan rated boxes have heavier duty attachments for the fan hanger and use longer screws.

Then you need to make sure that the fan hanger is firmly attached.  I would attach it directly to the ceiling box, not just the extender/cover.


Why did my outlet stop working I checked with a tester. Shows an open neutral. Voltage tester across black and white, nothing. Voltage across black and ground shows voltage of 120. Lines at breaker box tight, breaker not tripped.  I disconnected wires from breaker panel and checked continuity using a long wire and tester. The outlet is only 20 feet from panel. White doesn't have continuity, rest do.

Since it is an open neutral we will suspect a bad connection at a backstab or a broken wire at a splice. I work backwards looking for the last working receptacle or  the first non working this is the point of failure most of the time.
I don’t look for a switch’s to start with because switching a neutral is a code violation.
Of these problems 98% are from a bad backstab (the push in connectors).
You have checked this receptacle so check the next one closer to the breaker panel in most cases remember if a common wall it could be on the other side.
I work back until I find a working receptacle and then check that one of back stabbed just pulling it out and putting it back in can cause it to start working but it will normally fail again with a large load like a hair dryer or plug in heater.
In this case you are looking for a white or grey wire to be loose or broken if things are good at the last working receptacle the first non working will be the problem.
You can find many examples of this on this site but those are the likely locations. If all receptacles show the same open it may be a bad connection on the neutral buss in the panel but this is very rare I have only found a few of these after many decades of electrical work and all but one were doubled up a code violation on the neutral. But ok for most panels on the ground.


How do I find studs when stud finders won't work? I was trying to hang my TV at my new place, on an interior wall (between living room and a bathroom). Using the stud finder on other walls worked fine, but on this wall I got some very strange readings. An area of about 5 feet by 4 feet was setting off the AC warning, and studs seemed to be upto a foot wide and at irregular spacings.

I ended up drilling "exploratory holes" looking for the stud, because it didn't make sense that there would be tens of power cables in the walls, equally spread between the studs (in the air space between, and the ones attached to the studs shouldn't be within a 1/2" of the drywall. The studs turned out to be simply 2x4s with 16" centers.

Is there a trick I could have used rather than just drilling into the wall in exasperation?

Do you have any high powered magnets? like the rare earth neodynium magnets? If so you can probably rub one around the wall until it attaches to one of the nails in the studs. Or you can try thumping on the wall, a stud will sound alot less hollow versus empty drywall. That's how I've searched around in the past.


Why is there an opening where the burner connects to the gas line on a gas oven? I am replacing a gas oven igniter. On my model I had to remove the whole bottom burner in order to unscrew the bracket. I was very surprised that the burner is very loosely attached to the gas valve. In fact there are huge open holes near the attachment. How does it work? Why doesn't the gas escape through that, but instead goes directly into the burner?

(based on comments)

The opening is called a Primary Air Mixture.

Gas flowing through the line from the service point passes this opening, picks up air (oxygen), mixes and is ignited at the burner head.

Pressure in the line keeps the gas flowing. As there should not be air (oxygen) in the gas lines, this port allows the proper amount of oxygen to mix into the gas allowing ignition. Most gases (all?) require oxygen to burn.


two dryers on the same circuit I would like to have two dryers in my laundry room. Can I run both off of the same circuit? Can the outlets be run in series? What upgrades do I need to make for this to work. I have room for another breaker in my box, which is in the same room. I am doing extensive work, including removing drywall, in the laundry room and now would be the time to make changes.

Thanks!

Ok here's the math. NEC Article 220 requires electricians to provide 5000W/240V circuit for each dwelling dryer. Most nameplates will give you a total demand of 4500W. So 4500+4500= (9000W/240V)= 37.5A. 37.5A won't work on a 30A breaker and it exceeds the rating of the #10 conductor that is usually feeding the circuit. Also you cannot wire appliances in series, that would give you 120V drop across both dryers so it would not work. You would have to run them in parallel.

The normal method is to run a separate circuit for each dryer, which is what I would recommend. In other words don't try to reinvent the wheel. Just follow proven methods.


Interior wall paint turned soft and gooey A patch of paint next to the head of my bed has been slowly turning soft and gooey over the past several years and I don't understand why. There seem to be several coats involved, with a top layer of green latex sliding around on a gooey layer of white paint beneath.

I can easily scratch chunks off with my fingernails, or even just push it around until holes open up.

I assume this has something to do with the paint absorbing the oils from my hair or pillows, since it is pretty limited to that area.

It's also worth noting that the previous tenants did a really bad job of painting the interior, and may have layered oil and latex improperly.

So my question is, why is my wall paint turning gooey, and can I fix it or do I need to strip the paint and redo the whole room?

I am not a painter but I have come in contact with this when I painted using oil base paint over latex base paint, or is it the other way around, any ways they do not like each other. If you can, sand the walls that are giving you the problem and repaint them.


How can I level this concrete floor so I can install laminate? I did a rough sketch up of what I'm working with in Google Sketchup. I'm laying laminate flooring in my basement living room and have all of the necessary preparations (Plastic layer and padding) My question is on the leveling of the flooring. The small circle in the image below is about a 4sqft diameter circle that is not level with the rest of the floor. Images below of the level doing a cross section from middle of the circle to the outside The images are somewhat hard to see, 1st the bubble is all the way to the right and the second all the way to the left. Now seeing that this section is raised, a self leveling product would have to be applied to the whole floor to level this out. My thoughts were to smash the raised area down with a sledge hammer and then use a patching product to level it out. DIY What is the best method for me to level this out

Thanks to @HerrBag solution I was able to level the spot.

I like taking small crowns out of concrete floors with diamond cup wheel attached to an angle grinder... Need a shop vac and a masked helper.  You may be able to rent both.


Is there HVAC system to maintain air temperature, humidity and carbon dioxide level in the house? I'm looking for a HVAC system or device which can maintain predefined air temperature, humidity and CO2 level in the house. It would be nice if such a system can be upgraded to scale it for more rooms/zones with independent sensors in each zone. Both commercially available systems and custom projects are considered.

UPD: Some clarification is really needed:

I want such a system for a normal residental house.
Humidity control is important during winter, usually it is hard to get 20% in-door humidity without extra device.
High concentration of CO2 level is not really healthy for people, and I'd like to keep it lower than that. The idea is increase ventilation flowrate when CO2 level rises.

A humidifier is required to increase humidity. They come with a humidistat or you can use some smart thermostats to control them.

Running the fan/furnace will not clear any accumulated CO2 or other molecular indoor pollutants. You would need to exhaust air from your house and bring in fresh air.

Normally you don't need to concern yourself with CO2 unless your house is extremely tight(r2000) . Most houses built to that standard are already equipped with one of the following; an HRV (heat recovery ventilator) or for southern climates an ERV (energy recovery ventilator). There are options for control ranging from manual to timed or continuous with boost. I'm not familiar with CO2 monitoring to bring it on.

So basically for heat you need a furnace, (which you have)
For humidity you need to add a humidifier and to maintain safe air quality you need an HRV or ERV depending on your climate.

** Dedicate HRV**www.finehomebuilding.com

** Integrated HRV**www.skepticrant.com


Which AC Hard Start kit capacitor I should use? My AC system is getting very old and I was wondering if I should add a Hard Start kit and with what spec? Here is my AC spec included below and the existing Dual Run Capacitor is 440volt and 40+5MFD.

Should you just change a cap because your system is old? NO you don’t state there are any problems.
Electrolytic capacitors do fail over time but we don’t know what you have.  oil filled usually last the life of the unit but are much more expensive and not appropriate for all climates.
If you are noticing the lights dimming , hard starts blowing fuses if all the connections are good replace the cap with the same value.
As electrolytic caps age they loose their ability to hold a charge and or short out (note a bulged cap case has usually shorted, it may be working now but needs to be replaced).
As caps loose their ability to hold a charge they can not get the motor started thus dimming lights and blown fuses, let this go in long and the compressor windings will be damaged.
There are lots of film flam guys out there if your system is starting hard the cap just needs replacing with the same size it is that simple  (if the cap is the problem).
If you could not find the same size +-10% will work but not as well as the manufacturers recommended size.


How do we install drywall on a curved ceiling that is within 4 feet high from the loft floor? We are making the attic into a loft and the ceiling we need to add drywall to has a slight curve.  How do we install the drywall without breaking it?  The distance from the floor to the top is about 4 feet.

1/4" drywall will readily bend into a radius and is available at the big box stores. 2 layers of that with glue between the framing and the 2nd layer. A 2X4, as long as the sheet with a few short 2X to hold it while you screw it in place. It must be tight to the framing before you run screws into it to hold it.


What should I do about this fixture brace? I'm preparing to hang a ceiling fan fixture in a bedroom. I need to remove an old ceiling light's electrical box and brace first, however I don't see how I can remove them. The brace has limbs which sit underneath the joists and above the ceiling plaster and it feels like they might be screwed into the joists. There is a bit of lateral wobble to it so I don't want to reuse it for the fan fixture. (also because it'd be attached on the underside of the joists)

Here are some pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/Vamlh

How do I remove it? Or should I secure it somehow and reuse it for the fan? The fan fixture is 26 lbs. My house was built in 1946 and I suspect the brace is original.

[update] I was able to use the RozoZip, though I wasn't able to get as close to the joists as I would have liked. But after widening the hole with a file I installed the new box and brace.

If the brace is loose, you're going to have problems with vibrations sooner or later.  The braces that I see these days look a lot sturdier, so I'd recommend replacing it.

If you have access to a Roto-Zip (or similar tool), a metal-cutting wheel should make short work of the original brace, just cut it off near the joists so there's less to worry about.

It looks like the original brace is bowing the drywall down a little at that spot, so look into a new-work brace that can adjust for different thicknesses of drywall: just break off that tabs that allow it to be installed with 5/8" drywall because they'll interfere with the pieces of the original brace, and mount it so the edge of the box is flush with the surface of the drywall.  Be careful to keep any wiring away from sharp edges you might have from cutting the old brace.

If that's not going to work, install an old-work brace in the spot; look for one with a larger junction box (the one I linked to has a 2 1/8" deep box) so that you can mount it above the original brace and still have the edge flush with the drywall.


Replacing gas oven with electric I have a gas oven which has given up the ghost and I want to replace it with an electric pyrolitic oven.

Do I need a separate circuit for the new oven, or can I put it on the normal ring main.?

The new oven says it needs a "hard wired" connection. What's that?

You need a separate circuit for the oven as it draws a much greater current than the normal ring main.
This site explains the load a cooker draws.

A 240 V domestic cooker has the following connected loads:
top oven 1.5 kW
main oven 2.5 kW
grill 2.0kw
four hotplates 2.0 kW each

This results in a nearly 30A load which will clearly overload the regular 13A ring main.
A hard wired connection is where the connection is permanent and not through a normal plug and socket.


Need help identifying weird sized sewer pipe in older house My house was built in 1954, the waste pipes under the house are cast iron and galvanized steel, as are the fresh water pipes. I have a clog in the main sewer line running out to the street, as well as a leak that I need to address.

I dug up the line outside of the house in order to install a "sanitary tee" as there was no cleanout, and the plumber couldn't get his camera past a nasty clog in the pipe and suggested I install one. After digging up the pipe and cutting a section out of it in order to install a flexible tee, I discovered that the pipe isn't 4" but more like 4.5".

It's a plastic pipe, but it has a weird dimpled pattern on the outside of it, almost like fiberglass mat, but it's just dimpled into the pipe. It's about the same thickness as schedule 80 ABS, but when broken it almost has a flaky layered type of appearance. A family friend who's a plumber said that it's some kind of obsolete pipe they used during WW2 when they couldn't get cast iron pipe, but I cannot find any information on it. I hate to have to dig up the entire line and replace it, but I can't seem to get any fittings or adapters that will work with this pipe, and I do need to replace at least a couple of sections of it.

Only thing I can think of is possibly if I heated it up to soften it, I may be able to fit a section of 4" ABS pipe inside of it, but I'd rather not go the half-ass route. If I have to replace the whole line, so be it, but wondered if anyone had any input. :-)

It could be Orangeburg (bituminized) pipe, which was used for decades up to the 70s. I'd remove as much as you can, and then use a shielded Fernco adapter (clamping steel and rubber), sized to the outside diameter. Be careful not to crush the old stuff.

Disclaimer: I have no idea if this meets code.


Bathroom above the Garage Is it advisable to build a bathroom above the garage? What kind of obstacles might we face if there is a bathroom above the garage in terms of piping, insulation, etc.?

List of issues:

Getting the space conditioned.  This may be really easy or insanely difficult.  Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house.
Getting electric.  Should be no big deal.
Getting water.  Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing.
Getting exit plumbing.  Given that the bathroom is on a second level you have a lot more options but you will probably have to open a few walls to get plumbing to your main stack.  Your shower and faucet aren't a big deal.  It is your toilet that would be concern.  You don't want to run a long solid waste line with low slope.
Venting.  Should be easy since you are on second level.

So biggest issues are #1 and #4 for a bathroom above garage.  If you get these easily figured out the rest shouldn't be a huge deal.


How can I vent my bathroom through a ground floor vertical-slider privacy window? I live in an old style garden level unit in Chicago (roughly 80 years old).

The bathroom currently has no ventilation.  The window is cracked and I'll leave the bathroom door open when I shower, but I'd like a longer term solution.

The tricky part is, that the bathroom window overlooks the courtyard at eye level.  There are no other vents/ducts I could hook an exhaust fan into.

Any ideas on how I can add in some sort of exhaust fan through the window which would still have privacy?  It would be OK if the top half of the window became a fan, but the bottom half would have to stay blocked.

UPDATE:  I'd consider pulling the window frame (old wooden one, likely original) out and the entire window.  Reason being is right now the window frame is a shelf for shampoo/etc. I don't know if I'd be able to do something like glass brick or not.

You can easily run an exhaust fan through a window opening. Look at all the window mounted air conditioners. Same concept without the cooling capability. The main constraints are cost and appearance. As you can imagine, the more handsome the installation, the more it will cost. You basically will want to use a small square duct fan, similar to a very small box fan or very large computer fan. You should consider at least a short duct so you can incorporate a backdraft damper to minimize infiltration when the fan is not in use. You may also want a louvered grille for appearance or privacy reasons. Depending on how this is accomplished, the exterior decorative bars may need to be reworked slightly.

It sounds like this window is in or above the shower itself. In such a case, all electrical work will need to be approved for wet locations (I believe if above 72" from floor, only damp location measures are required, but please verify this). The simplest installation would be to open the window, run the duct through the opening and close off the remaining opening with an insulated panel of some sort. The sliding panes will need to be fixed in place somehow for security. Fan wiring can be run in surface mounted EMT tubing.

A better solution is to remove the wood window, which is not the best material for wet locations. Install the fan/duct and some minimal infill framing in the rough opening. Any wood in contact with masonry should be pressure treated. Install a new PVC window in the new, smaller opening, with obscure glass. A cleaner look will be achieved if you can hide the fan wiring behind finished surfaces. Depending on existing conditions, this can be somewhat simple or quite expensive.

A glass brick solution is also possible. Depending on the size of your opening and the brick module size, it may be an excellent or poor solution. Ideally, you may need no infill panel at all, the duct may fit nicely in one corner. Or so much infill is needed that the glass brick solution is just too visually insubstantial to be worth doing at all.


Broken three prong plug If the third prong of a plug of a shop vac broke off, can you still use the vac as is, or is there another way to use it without replacing the plug.

You can use it. But it is NOT RECOMMENDED.

The vast majority of the time, the ground plug does "nothing". But under certain fault conditions, the ground plug is vital for safety. There are certain types of tools that are "double insulated" and do not have a ground plug. But if a device has a ground plug then it is not advisable to use it without the plug. This includes both a problem with the plug, as you described, and also includes using a "3-prong to 2-prong adapter".

This is especially the case with a shop vacuum. Shop vacuums often handle water, metal and other conductive materials. If something should go wrong and the ground plug is not intact and functioning properly, that could lead to serious injury.

Replacing the plug is usually not hard to do. Depending on the type of cord, you might be able to replace the entire cord, or you may cut off the end and attach a new 3-prong plug. Look for a replacement that is "UL Listed".


How to repair mortar that is crumbling? The interior of my stone basement foundation wall has been mortared it is starting to sand off. What is the best way to seal it off so I can paint it again? The home was built in the 20's and has no water problems.

If the mortar is crumbling and flaking, it MUST be removed.  It is a tedious job, bit to assure a good solid surface, you have to remove all loose mortar, key it, and point all the joints.  Let it cure a few weeks, be absolutely it is dried, then go for the finish. If you don't get to a solid base, you will be wasting your time and paint. Remember, the right way is the only way.


What resources can teach me to draw floor plans by hand? Are there any simple books or websites that can teach me how to draw floor plans? It seems most planning is done with CAD software. I like the idea of being able to sketch out ideas down on paper.

Drafting "by hand" is still taught in most architecture (and often civil engineering) schools. AutoCAD is simply one tool in the toolbox of a draftsman.

So, I would look for a book on basic architectural drafting. You might see if you can get in touch with the drafting teacher at your local high school or community college and see what he uses as a textbook.

As for being able to "sketch" ideas, only the very roughest plans are drawn freehand. Artist's renderings and some elevation drawings will have an element of freehand to them, but the main lines of the building will be drawn with the paper taped to the drafting table and using a straightedge and speed squares.


How to seal these sewer clean outs? I have these caps just outside of my house that I’m assuming are sewer clean outs. The problem is the pipe is all corroded and the caps are PVC that are just set on top of it. They don’t seal as there are no more threads.
Do I have to completely dig out the access and replace with PVC, or is there another way to attach to the metal and seal near the surface?
What’s the best way to remediate this so I have a seal?

A common approach is a rubber coupling (also called a "Fernco®" for the same reason adhesive bandages are called "Band-Aids®")
Counter-intuitively, the last time I read the instructions carefully the ones with a stainless steel reinforcement (sheilded) were not recommended for burial and the plain rubber ones (unsheilded) (with stainless steel clamps) were, but read the instructions carefully yourself to be sure.
General approach is to cut off the iron pipe and use a rubber fitting to transition to PVC. Then be sure to protect the PVC from sunlight (cover it in some way, or at the least paint it. Sunlight is not good for PVC pipe.) You may need to use a wire brush and/or grinder to get the outside of the iron pipe smooth enough for a good seal.


42" Elevated Foundation Build in Coastal NC What are the best practices for residential elevated foundation 42" construction in Coastal NC?  I have read alot about: soil tests, compacted fill, 4" of gravel on top of compacted fill, vapor barrier, termite treatment, etc.  Where do I find  the latest industry best practices for constructing an elevated slab ?  Questions include:  1.  What is the best soil to use for fill?  2.  How do you determine if the fill has been properly compacted?  3.  What purpose does the 4" of gravel on top of the compacted fill serve, is it structural or for water drainage or both?  4.  If you plan on having reinforced 4" concrete slab 3000 psi do you need the 4" of gravel fill on top of the compacted fill?  5.  If you have a vapor barrier do you need the 4" of gravel fill on top of the compacted fill?  6.  How long is the termite treatment good for?  etc.

So, if this is “What is the best foundation system?” I’ll give it a go...

Do not use soil for fill. Use evenly graded “crushed rock”.

You have fill tested to make sure it’s compacted to 95.% density. (You can’t get 100%.) Install it in 6” layers and compact as you go.

When you have that much fill, (over 18” or so) you need to use larger rocks to save money. I’d go with 6” minus. That means you’ll have big big rocks in the fill. By installing a 3” layer of 3/4” minus rock you’ll have a nice uniform layer for the concrete slab and rebar.

Yes you need a base regardless. Do not use wire mesh in your slab...there isn’t an adequate amount of rebar and the slab will crack. Use temperature steel. Do you know how to calculate the amount needed?

A vapor barrier may not be necessary , that high above grade. We’d need more info to decide.

Length of service by your termite treatment depends on strength, quantity, etc.

Btw, if you use 3,000 psi concrete, then by Code you’ll need it tested. Why not use 2500 psi concrete and skip the cost of testing?
Also, that high above grade, why not use wood framing and skip the fill, compaction, etc.?


Electrical Service (Overhead) I'm upgrading the electrical service to my cottage from 100A meter pan to 200A as per the power company's requirement.  I am installing the hardware myself--meter pan, weather-pole, wire, etc.
I plan to use 4/0 4/0 4/0 aluminum SEU wire from weather head down and out of the bottom of the pan into the structure. My question is:

Can I use SEU wire (the acronym is Service Entry Underground), and I wasn't sure if it can be used "overhead".

One of the conductors is "striped".  What does the stripe mean? Does it have to be connected a certain way to the power company's twisted pair?

I do not have the answer to your question, but would like to share my experience.
The previous owner of our house upgraded from 100A to 200A service. One of two things happened, can't recall, but either a) new roof or b) smart meter installation. Whichever it was, the power company said that the roof attachment was not strong enough to support the weight of the 200A service, and would need to be repaired. They gave me a pamphlet, which of course I cannot find right now. Went thru various scenarios, including installing a larger diameter pipe, but in the end, I paid a licensed electrician, he  installed a u-bolt that wrapped around one of the rafters and feed between the slats. Also an MSEE.
TL;DR might need to do something to handle the increased weight of heavier wire.


Is a double pole, double throw switch correct for my spa cover motor? I have a pool cover motor with a wireless switch that went bad. I want to connect a manual switch for the off season until we replace the cover. I've been trying to connect a DPDT switch but can't figure out the correct connectivity and don't have much info on the motor.

The motor: Cover Pools Model V0731A820, 115 AC

White ----- L1
Blue
Red
Black ------L2
Yellow

Motor states to reverse interchange Yellow and Blue.

should I be using a DPDT switch and any suggestions on how to wiring this up?

Thanks for the help

simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab

Turn power Off before reversing direction.

Normally a 3 position DPDT switch with Center Off is preferred.

Here is a Mom-Off-Mom rocker switch 20A 120V
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/cw-industries/GRB260K101BBNN/CW129-ND/2349709


Touching up Tough as Tile Paint I refinished our bathtub with tough as tile paint and it looked great until we retiled around the tub and scratched the paint in multiple places. Is it ok to give the tub another coat over top of where its scratched without sanding?? I redid sinks before and had a run in the one; tried sanding it and repainting and it reacted and we ended up replacing it. I DO NOT want to replace our tub...

There's a link to the applcation instructions on their website.
https://www.homaxproducts.com/kitchen-bath/sink-tile-refinishing/tough-as-tile-one-part-finish-spray-on-kit-white (this page is not the instructions but contains a non-transferrable link )

It says not to allow it to cure for more than 6 hourse before recoating, so you'll have to re-do the surface preparation around your repairs or on the whole tub and then re-coat.

I see no indications that it is not self-compatible - that is it can be applied over an existing tough-as-tiles finish if the preparation instructions are followed (again)


Can I repurpose a 60 Amp heating circuit for standard outlets? In my basement I currently have old electric wall heaters that are on a 60 amp circuit. I'm getting rid of the heaters and want to reuse the circuit and redirect the wiring to all my electrical outlets only  in my basement. Knowing that  residential electrical outlets carry 120 - 120v, is it safe to use the same  60 amp circuit? What would be the upside /downside by doing it this way if any?

If the circuit is in good shape there is no reason you cannot change out the breakers and turn it into 2 120V 20 or 15 amp circuits. I am assuming of course that the 60A circuit is a 240V circuit and has a neutral and ground. If it does not have this configuration then you could use the circuit as 1 20 or 15 amp circuit, assuming of course that you have a ground connection also.

Another option would be to leave it in place and install a sub panel in the basement and use it to distribute power throughout the basement and leave extra spaces for future work. Once again you must have the correct number of conductors.

Good luck.


Wire Gauge/Type for 100amp detached Shop? I have a new woodworking shop that I built behind my house. The shop has a 100 Amp panel and I have wire the shop for 110v/20a plugs and 220v/20a plugs. My house has a 225amp service and already has a 220v/100a breaker that was feeding a garage subpanel (no longer used).

Panel and breaker are Square D and I want t run a direct burial cable to the shop. Distance is 65 meters (about 200 feet). Total draw in the shop would be max 60 amps if I had everything running (lights, heater/AC, power tools, radio, etc) and although there would be voltage drop over the distance of the run, I think a 2/3 direct wire would still suffice.

I asked the inspector and he was only concerned about depth of trench etc.

I also wanted to use aluminum as it is cheaper than copper.

Trying to look at what cable to get and 2/3 aluminum Tech cable seems like it will do.

If it were me I would probably run 4/0 and mount a 100amp double pole breaker to feed it in your main panel. I'd come out of the breaker with #2 copper and then use a barrel connector to transition to the 4/0 aluminum on each hot line..  Then go the 200 ft in a conduit. In theory you don't need it that thick but I bet you would appreciate the less flickery lights when you turn on heavy loads out there.. You could also do direct burial, they make service cable that is approved for burial and you get a higher rating when buried in dirt because it is basically water cooled. 600v insulation, etc. If you make that trade off you may get annoyed every time you kick on a motor on.  They make ul approved barrel connectors for the transition from #2 coper to 4/0 and aluminum and Home Depot carries them.  The county inspector approved this method for me. I would call your local inspector and ask him. They are often helpful for the Diy folks when not swamped. Try again in early mornings before they are about, and try more than one..

Jeff


What's the minimum fall for a flat roof with edpm perpex polycarbonate I read that an edpm rubber roof requires a minimum fall of 1 in 80 in order to be able to shed water. I calculate that to be 0.7 degrees. My flat roof is 1.7 degrees. I was thinking to also install a sheet of polycarbonate on the roof (or even better perspex - glass like window onto the sky). But it is often stated that polycarbonate requires a minimum 5 degrees fall!  Am I missing something - polycarbonate requires more than 5 times the fall than edpm rubber to shed water?
Would using perspex make any difference?

No, you have to follow manufacturer’s recommendations for fall.  And by the way, fall is discussed as a ratio of rise/run.  Nobody uses degrees for that; it’s an unwieldy unit that you have to keep converting in/out of.  Build some roofs; you’ll get it.
The reason for the fall is simply that an EPDM roof is a membrane. It is glued and sealed, and it could nearly be used as pool liner.
Whereas, “tin roof”, perspex etc. rely entirely on lap seams to keep rain out.  If the roof is too shallow, water will do an “S-curve” and run backward up the lap seam and get into the roof.


DWV insert pipe into run I would like to insert some short lengths of 3" copper into a DWV main line that is made of PVC. I will be wrapping soft copper around these short lengths and running the cold water feed for the shower through the soft copper to capture heat from the drain water.

My question is for you plumbers, what procedure would you use to insert a fitting or Tee into an existing run?

After I cut it, I can probably move the line an inch or so fairly easily but any more will be more complicated but can be accomplished.

Edit: I should add that the shower drain is too tight to the main line to put the heat exchanger in the 2" shower line.

If I wanted to add a Y into the main line and move the shower drain I would still have to cut the DWV and insert the Y. How do you guys cut in to an existing line to add a fitting? Do you use rubber couplings?

Would something like this be reliable for decades to come?

http://www.zoro.com/fernco-flexible-coupling-4-in-l-3-x-3-in-1059-33/i/G2880026/?gclid=CNXrp8jcn8kCFYRDaQodd-AM-Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

Rubber adapter couplings are what is used for what you want to do. You will need to insure that you order the correct one as copper and PVC have different outside diameters.

I do not think that you will get good heat transfer by simply wrapping soft copper around the drain line as there will be minimum contact. There are commercially available products on the market that do what you are looking for that will provide much better heat transfer. Here is one such product: Recoh-vert.

You'll notice that the pipe-in pipe method archives much greater contact between the hot drain water and the incoming cold water. They also install these on the vertical as what travels around the inside wall of the pipe when draining vertical (as opposed to just the bottom when draining horizontally). This also increases the amount of heat transfer.

You can make a similar product yourself, though I question the possibility that a home made product would prevent cross-contamination. Defiantly would not pass any local codes. Here's a video on how to make one: Shower Heat Exchanger.

If I understand your situation, you have limited space in install the heat exchanger. I believe that there are also p-trap versions available.


Installing single-ended LED in a pre-existing T-8 fixture with only one connection per side I have a set of new LED bulbs which want hot & neutral connection at just one end of each bulb.

The fixture in question however is wired differently than I expected.  It has just one wire per end.  The ballast diagram matches the fixture wiring:

Examining the bases they indeed have just one electrical connection per side.
What can be done to bypass the ballast in this situation?  Trashing the entire fixture is an option (and may be less trouble than messing with finding compatible bases).  No new bases were included with the lamps, nor would generic bases fit due to shape of the fixture.

Those sockets at the end of the fixture that the tube snaps into are called lampholders.

You are correct that fluorescent tubes have 2 pins on each end (a preheat filament is between them) and some ballasts do not use that feature.  To avoid having to make a bunch of jumper wires, manufacturers use a shorting lampholder which internally shorts both pins.  You are cursed with those.

Virtually all lampholders come down to 3-4 different compatible styles (overwhelmingly one**), all of which I've been able to find online.  I've never had to abandon a fixture due to odd lampholders.  That seems even less likely with a shorting lampholder.    Get some non-shorting lampholders.  Done.

In the future you avoid this problem either by making sure you are buying direct-wire LED "tubes" that feed from opposite ends (that's safer anyway) or buy those particular plug-n-play LEDs made for your ballast type (but then you have to maintain the ballast, no thanks.)

** I just overhauled a prewar fixture.  The 4' fixture was bulletproof drawn 18 gauge steel and weighed 10 pounds without the ballast. The lampholders were trapped in a weird way, but guess what, they were the most common type.   I put a T8 ballast in it, I go for the 90CRI real tubes, better light quality.


Can you paint water resistant MDF? Can you paint water resistant MDF (the green stuff like this)? If so, what type of paint is required?

From the link that you supplied in the product details section:

  Can be finished with varnish or either oil or water-based paints

So yes, you can paint it with water or oil based paints and varnishes.


What are my options for transitions between Linoleum and tile? I just completed building a bathroom in the basement. The last piece is installing some sort of transition between ceramic tile bathroom floor and linoleum tile outside. The tile in the bathroom is about 1/2 to 5/8 inch higher than the linoleum. Linoleum is glued directly onto a concrete slab.
What are my options as far as transition pieces?

You could use an aluminum transition strip from the vinyl to the tile. Some types of transition strips are really intended to be installed under the higher tile layer so this may limit your ability to hide fasteners that secure the strip in place. Here are some examples:

...

You can normally find an assortment of different styles of aluminum transition strips at hardware stores and big box home centers.


repair drywall cornerbead (edger?) I have this damaged drywall corner. I saw a couple of videos, some recommend to remove old loose mud over the cracked area and put on a new mud, wait till it dry, sand and put more if necessary, dry, sand etc. Other videos suggest to tape the area before putting a new mud.
My questions:

Is it important to tape it, or more a matter of taste?
Does the tape add extra force to hold the new mud?

The plaster/joint compound has cracked along the line of the corner-bead below. Adding tape to your repair will strengthen the repair (reduce likelihood of re-cracking) but will also require you to remove paint and plaster to the width of the tape, all along the crack, or you will see a bulge. That said, I recommend doing it.


Gravity grille not opening when bathroom fan is on I have a question about airflow with a bathroom fan, in this case a Ventaxia VASF100T with a front cover, duct through the wall and a gravity grille on the outside.

It seems quite inefficient at clearing steam, and I am wondering if the exterior vents are just stopping air from moving outside? What I am referring to is called a "gravity grille" I would have expected the flaps to open when the fan is on but I have checked and they do not move at all.
How can air be pulled outside if there is something blocking it? Maybe the air is just recirculating..

The outside grille should definitely open when the fan is running. However, it isn't clear whether this is a cause or an effect of your airflow problem:

The grille may be stuck, in which case you need to lubricate/free/unbind it
There may be some other issue with the airflow, in which case nothing's pushing the grille open

First stop: check the grill manually so that you can see if they're working (they should open easily). If not, you've found the problem. If so, then you'll need to check other components (the ducting, the fan, etc).


How to find and fix a bad smell of moisture? We just bought a 3-year old house and there is an odd smell of moisture in the master bedroom and attached bathroom.  It smells like someone just took a shower although the house has not been used in 10 days.  During those 10 days, the central air conditioning was set at 80 degrees.  We can't locate the source of the smell as you get used to the smell pretty quickly.  We noticed the smell during our visits before buying the home, but it seemed like it could easily be coming from their items or having just showered.  The master bedroom and bathroom are on the 2nd floor of a 3-story townhouse.

It sounds likely that you might have a minor leak somewhere perhaps. You haven't really mentioned where you live as that can have a big impact on the expected environment in the home. If you in a low lying area and have a basement it could be related to ground water in the area seeping into your basement.

More than likely though you simply have a leak somewhere. I've seen thermal imaging solutions advertised as a great solution to this but have not personally used a service like this. Here is a link to a site that details the process pretty well so you can get an idea of how it works. You'll have to call around your local area and find a company that offers these services though.

Once you've fixed the source of the problem and know the extent of the area affected your best option for clearing up related problems is going to be a dehumidifier. In most cases you want to aim for 40-50% humidity at most.

If you live in a humid environment and the ambient humidity is upwards of 60% inside the house regularly than that may be the sole cause of your problem. Either way your first step is going to be finding the source of the problem.


How to improve window sash sliding? I have a brand new window and it seems like it could slide a little smoother if it had some lubricant in the rails. It does open fine but it feels like it could be broken in more.

Is there any lubricant I can use in the rails to make it slide better?

Usually silicone is good for this kind of thing, doesn't make a mess, screw up wood finish, gum up plastics and rubber, etc.  A little goes a long way.  Just a tiny squirt on the rails, work it up and down a few times, wipe off any excess.

On older wood on wood windows, wax works very well, in a pinch, or if you don't have any wax, rubbing soap on it.


Metric Screw Size Specification Question: M4x10K? I have a quick question about interpreting a screw specification on a repair diagram. I am usually pretty good with buying replacement screws and threads/sizing but this screw is a metric size (which I am less familiar with) and is written in a way that makes me stumped.

The part description, exactly as it appears on the schematic, is: 'Screw M 4x10K'. Now, M4 is the nominal outer diameter of the head (in mm). Usually, the part following the 'x' is a length (in mm) but the 'K' part is confusing me. Is the 'K' an additional specification or class of screws or is '10K' some length-related specification itself? The screw goes through a plastic part and into a metal part on a vacuum. The manufacturer is based in the UK so I am having some difficulty sorting out what this could be.

Thank you!

Sounds like Sebo?

The M4 diameter relates to the diameter of the thread not the head though. A M4 thread will typically have a 7mm wide head.

Googling "Sebo M 4 x 10K" seems to find a few references to that screw size.


Vapor barrier on bathroom remodel? I live in the Pacific NorthWest in what I believe is a zone 4 marine environment. Our house was built in 1979 and is in decent but outdated shape. I'm remodeling a 5'x7'bathroom and have removed the sheetrock on the one exterior wall to reroute some plumbing. When I removed the original sheetrock I also removed the insulation which had a soft almost flour like texture that would pretty much crumble in my hands.There was no vapor barrier on the interior, and as far as I can tell there is no vapor barrier on the exterior.
I'm now getting ready to close up the wall and have two questions.

When I insulate this exterior wall using mineral wool, will I need to put up some kind of vapor barrier? if so what do you recommend?
Part of this exterior wall will be used by the shower/tub. The shower surround I'm using is Flexstone over cement board, will I need to use a vapor barrier on that area as well? If so where would it go, over the insulation before I put the cement board on?

In the Pacific Northwest you do want an exterior vapor barrier we get enough wind driven rain that this is a big deal.
The original insulation sounds like a cellulose type, I have never used on new construction, by 79 fiberglass was the common type for new construction in this area.
I have always used heavy plastic behind my backer so I don’t have any experience with flexstone. as I have always used a membrane behind backer because I don’t want the constant moisture that can penetrate grout and backer or even tile depending on the type a non permeable surface there but still a vapor barrier on the exterior wall. Try to overlap and make sure to go up to the eves so water can not easily get behind it and damage the sheathing.


Why does one phase of my buildings mains line show a significant amount of voltage (~60V) when it goes down? The other day one of the phases of our power faulted and the fuse tripped on the power company side. I measured the voltage at 60-65V. Lights were flickering, and some devices kept running (like a dell computer, it was perfectly happy at 60V).

How does the power back feed from one phase to a 'tripped' line that should read 0V?

Both lines are regular 120V AC mains lines in northern America.

Most all residential power feeds in the USA are 120/240 Vac split-phase. You have two hot wires (L1, L2) and a neutral coming into your house or apartment or trailer. After passing through your power meter it goes to your breaker panel. It is constructed so 240 Vac appliances connect to L1 and L2 which are 180 deg out of phase. 120 Vac appliances connect to either L1 or L2 in a hop-scotch pattern that helps distribute and even out the loading placed on L1 and L2.

This also helps keep return currents in neutral small enough to be safe.

Because 240 Vac appliances literally pass current to/from L1 and L2, if L1 or L2 fails due to outside lines being cut or a burned out main breaker, the disrupted lines can have some voltage on it, known as backfeed.

To test for this condition just use the breakers to turn off all 240 Vac appliances. If the problem goes away then you have a burned-out main breaker (replace) or a phase wire from the utility is open (call utility service).


Front loading washer leveled but acts out of balance My front loading washing machine is acting out of balance. It's not too bad when spinning empty but if there are clothes in it, it rocks and makes loud squeaking noises. I've leveled it, front to back and side to side are within level using a 4' bubble level.  When it's spinning I can see that the drum moves front to back relative to the door.

Can I open it and re-level the drum?  Any idea how to level the drum?

Should have mentioned the washer is mounted on a pedestal.  It seems the screws holding it to the pedestal needed to be tightened.  It's working fine now.

Thanks for the help.


wiring a kitchen under counter oven - is this setup correct? Here are the oven wiring specs:

POWER / RATINGS

Amp Rating at 208V:  20
Amp Rating at 240V:  20
Bake Wattage:        2100W
Broiler Wattage:     3600W
Convection Wattage:  2500W
KW Rating at 208V:   2.8
KW Rating at 240V:   3.8

I've installed a 12/3 home run

And this is the breaker than I intend to purchase:

https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QO220CP-Two-Pole/dp/B007IAZCQM/ref=sr_1_32?ie=UTF8&qid=1529384864&sr=8-32&keywords=square+d+breakers+20+amp

Other than stepping up the wire gauge, Is this an acceptable setup? I don't want to burn the house down.

Looks well researched and complete to me.  The wire is perfect. Everything looks right.

The only thing that bugs me is opportunity cost: some building codes require you fit a 40A or 50A cable for the common/standard electric range/oven. Deluxe homes even like to see that and a 30A run for a separate dual oven.  So if it's easy now and won't be easy later, my inclination would be to throw a 10/3 and 6/3 in the wall.


"Dead-ending" unused plumbing I'm planning on moving our hot water heater from its current location in our mudroom down to the basement, to live in what will become sort of a mechanical closet in the to-be-finished basement.  My plan is to attempt to remove the existing PEX plumbing going to the water heater as close as possible to the nearest branch, but if that turns out to be difficult I'd like to cap off the old PEX just inside the wall.

If I end up doing this, it will leave two 10-foot runs of 3/4" PEX going vertically up that wall to a dead end.  These segments will see no real flow, and I expect they will stay at least partially full of stagnant water.  Is this a bad idea?

It shouldn't be a problem.

The pipes will be sealed so there'll be no air getting in, so the water won't actually go stagnant (in the sense of "bad/smelly").


Anyone know a name for this measuring tool? I've been looking at height gauges and they don't quite fit what I need.  I'm trying to measure a ceiling not an object.
I've seen some old fashioned height gauges that seem to do what I'm looking for but I'm hoping I just don't know the name or something.
I have one of those plastic gauges showing up but it doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.  If you can point me in a direction I'm much obliged.

I do not know exactly what type of ceiling you are measuring, but the old fashioned way I know to do it accurately are using "tick sticks", 2 pieces of wood that are shorter than the length you need but when combined together, they are long enough to measure the area. Mark the stick accordingly or clamp them together to maintain the length that the area provided.


Protect trim finish during installation When using a nail gun to install freshly stained and finished trim,  i want to make sure i don't damage the finish.  In concerned that pressing the  nail gun up against the surface will cause marks.
What's a good way to do that?

Most nail guns come with rubber bumpers or you can get them from the manufacturer. You can also use a piece of cardboard over the trim and move it along as you go.


water filter for shower boiler In a shared garden, I have access to a pipe where the water comes from a well. the water is already pre-filtered but still contains (small amount) particles.

I would like to install a shower, the few particles would not be an issue for the shower, but I need to install a water boiler and I am concerned that the particles would then drastically reduce the life of the boiler.

I could find lot of water filters on-line but they are all focused on making the water more drinkable which is not my goal.

Is my worry justified, and a water filter is definitely required?
if yes what type filter should I better use for an economical and quality shower? (I do not have to make the water drinkable)

What you want is typically referred to as a "whole home water filter".  The name isn't the best description of what it is, but basically they are high-volume water filters that only filter out sediment and relatively large particulate.  They do not bring water to a "drinking water" quality but do filter out anything that would be harmful to appliances.

The good news for you is that they can be cheap enough for a simple installation like yours:

Image from:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Whole-Home-Water-Filtration-System-GXWH04F/100471282

Only $20, which is a low enough price to put it into the "why not" category.  If you have any reason to believe the water might have some sediment it in, that's enough justification to use one.

To replace the filter, the whole bottom part screws off and a new filter cartridge is put in.  This model says to replace the filter every 3 months, but with your low volume it would probably last much longer.


Does anyone know how to get rid of magnetic field from water line? I have horrible wifi reception in one side of my house, even with an expensive wifi router. So I purchased a magnetic field meter and confirmed everywhere it peaked the wifi was non-existent. Walking around the house I believe I traced it back to the water line coming from the city.

Does anyone know how to reduce or eliminate this magnetic field?
A friend suggested that it could possibly be a faulty connection from my main electric panel touching the water line. Before getting an expensive electrician take a look, I figured to ask you for any advise or other things to look out for.

An unchanging or slowly (< 10 MHz) changing magnetic field does not affect radio networking (WiFi, WiMax, Bluetooth, iBurst, etc.) in the > 1 GHz range.  Even if that magnetic field is very strong, like near an MRI magnet.

You might try the same field meter set to measure radio/microwave energy.  That is far more likely to desensitize a radio receiver which would kill a radio network.  If a network router can't hear anything, it won't talk.


Does a whole house humidifier go on the intake or outlet of the furnace? On what side of the furnace do I install the tank of the humidifier (the warm side or the return air side)?

All the humidifiers I've seen mount on the return plenum and have a duct installed that bypasses the air handler to the supply plenum.


Wiring for a mini-split ductless AC system I am wiring a new home and considering a ductless AC system for my home over central-air ducts. There will be an air handler in each bedroom and living area.

Could someone chime in and let me know what type of wiring should be in place to support this type of system? I know there will be an outside condenser too, so outside dedicate sub-panel? What about air-handler power for each room.

It all depends on the model. Most are 240v, and the wiring connection is made through the outdoor unit.

If you're going with a multi-split setup (one condenser feeding multiple indoor heads), then you just need a single 240v connection with a disconnect near the anticipated future location of the condenser.

If you're giving each head its own condenser, you'll need many such electrical connections: one per condenser. Those'll take up a lot of room on your electrical panel; make sure it's big enough.

With this kind of cadillac equipment, make sure you're getting the absolute highest efficiency possible. The best units go up to 33 SEER and 14 HSPF. You're already going to be paying $3-4,000 per head; any upcharge to get maximum efficiency is always worth it. Don't  compromise here.

Finally, be absolutely sure you select a reputable contractor who can demonstrate that they have installed hundreds of systems just like the one you're asking for. Also be sure they give you an ironclad warranty and a performance guarantee. The reason why I mention these things is that mini-split systems are pretty unfamiliar to most American contractors, most of whom only know how gas furnaces and conventional AC systems. You really need to make sure that your contractor knows what they're doing with this equipment or else you will be disappointed--guaranteed.


Did I severely compromise my foundation by drilling diagonally through a floor joist? I’m boring some holes to run new wiring and there happened to be two adjacent floor joists under where I was drilling, so I drilled diagonally-vertically through one of the joists. The hole is 3/4” thick. Is this hole a code violation? Did I just compromise the integrity of my foundation?
Pictures below of the hole in question:

I called a local engineer and he said that it was sufficient to fill the hole with epoxy putty. I mentioned screwing in some straps around the hole and he said that’s great but not necessary in this case.


How can I run cable through perpendicular studs? I have an electrical outlet powered by a cable that does through a stud. This is currently the first outlet in the series

I'm adding another outlet on a nearby wall that is perpendicular to the first and behind the stud. I think this will be the new outlet in the series

I've attempted a diagram to show this. I hope it makes sense

XX is the stud
The ----- are the existing cable
The = is the new outlet
The " is the existing outlet
The [] form the walls.

     [  ]
    =[  ]
     [  ]
[  ---XX---     ]
           "

Can I drill through the the stud at the existing point to create either a 3 way or 4 way hole so I can run the cable through to the new outlet?
Will this cause any structural issues?
If I cannot add a hole here, what's the best way for me to add the new outlet in?

I may understand your situation. I assume it looks like this (in plan view):

 _____
|_____|
   *
   *
   * <-- planned cable
   *
 __*__
|_____|
  | |
**|*|******** <-- existing cable
  |_|

If that's accurate, simply drill a hole at a diagonal, like so, from whichever side gets you the most clearance:

 _____
|_//__|
  | |
  | |
  |_|

This hole can penetrate the other stud somewhat to keep more centered, and should be safely above or below any nearby cable, both to prevent damage and to allow smooth bends between holes. The hole should be centered on the stud depth on the unobstructed face.

If the cable ends up less than 1-1/4" from the face of any stud (from the perspective of the finished wall surface), add a protective steel plate to the stud edge.

Note that attempting to bend cable in a multi-direction hole through lumber is likely to stress the conductors. All bends should be smooth and of an adequate radius to prevent tearing of the copper wire and insulating jacket. It's also an exercise in frustration.


PVC Pipes And Pool Solar Heating Advice We have a set of EnerSol solar panels (black water pipes) which are installed on the roof. Our pool pump sends water up to the panels via black PVC pipes. The water goes through the panels, warms significantly then returns back down to the pool.

When it's running it works great. The water feels warm coming out of the jets and the pool is nice and warm all summer.

The problem is... we are up in Southern Canada and the winters are harsh on the panels. Every spring we have burst PVC pipes in various places which necessitate an expensive call to a plumber. This despite carefully blowing out all the water from the pipes in the fall. (I suspect some water doesn't fully drain due to being at the bottom of the roof slope.)

Are black PVC pipes appropriate in this situation?
Anyone have a similar setup with any advice?

It has not been winterized properly. Enersol FAQs have some great tips regarding "removable end-caps on the roof" that need to be opened.

EnerSol FAQs


How can I diagnose and resolve noises from my ceiling fan? Over the past couple nights my bedroom fan has produced different noises. Originally the noise was from the light and fan pull chains colliding. Now there seems to be a new sound every night. Each more frustrating than the last. The sounds are only audible when the fan is on high.

Last night's sounds seemed to tick every second 6 times, then stop for two "beats" and start again. The night prior it seemed to be on a 4 ticks of varying loudness, followed by a short break and 2 more. Then a "I think it's done being annoying and I can finally fall asleep" period and it would start again.

When the fan is on medium or low, it does not produce the desired room temperature. What are some things I can do to find the cause of the ceiling fan noises?

As it turns out I was not looking in the right place. The problem was the light fixture was not screwed in tightly. After tightening all the blades I tried the fixture and the noises are gone.


Smell like fish oil coming from cupboard with hot water tank Somebody has said there is a smell like fish oil coming from her hot press (not sure if the term 'hot press' is used worldwide: the airing cupboard / the cupboard with the hot water tank in).

Her house doesn't have mains gas.

She's checked for anything visible that it could be -- no fish oil tablets in pockets of clothes; nothing like that.

What might this be?

And how might this be dealt with?

(Firstly, I want to check that it's not likely to be some kind of poisonous gas or something. And secondly whatever it is, to try and sort it, to improve the space -- so she can use the cupboard.)

by fish oil smell, do you mean a smell of sulfur? if so, it could be that the pressure relief valve is opening or the tank is leaking in some manner, and the heated water is releasing a sulfurous odor. look for any signs of leaking water.

a common place for a water heater to leak is the pressure relief valve. if the relief valve is leaking or opening, check the water pressure and the thermostat. high water pressure can force open the relief valve and a thermostat set too high or malfunctioning can cause over pressure. if there is a one-way valve near the inlet side of the water heater, that could prevent the water from expanding back and forcing water out the pressure relief valve.


Want to add outlet to bathroom I have a bathroom with only a light switch and no outlets. The wiring is old so there are no ground wires. Can I put an outlet on that circuit and if so, should it be a GFCI?

Considering the age  of the home, the only complaint, and in my opinion safe, alternative is to have a new circuit run to the bathroom for the GFI. It is almost guaranteed that in a bath a hair dryer will be used, which is a huge draw for a general use circuit. So adding a receptacle to the existing wiring will not only not be code complaint, it will stress the existing circuit quite a bit.


Need another 240v breaker I bought a device called Sense to monitor home electrical usage that is installed in your electrical panel.

The device needs to be connected to a 240v breaker like this:

The problem is that I only have one 240v breaker and it is already in use and the whole electrical panel is full.  I don't want to spend a lot of money on this and I am looking for cheaper solutions (e.g., not installing a subpanel!).

Could I pigtail this device with the existing 240v breaker?  The electrical usage of the device is minimal.  I don't know what is already on this breaker (it is unlabeled).  I have gas for stove, dryer, hot water, and heat.  Maybe the fridge or washing machine is the biggest electrical device.

Could I replace the breaker with a double tap breaker?  I don't know if that exists for 240v.  Here is a photo of the current breaker:

Are there other options?

I will be calling an electrician to come in and do the work, but I'd like to be sure there is a relatively easy way to do this before he gets here.

Since it's low amperage, my guess would be that it's feeding a multi-wire branch circuit - two 120V circuits fed off of a three wire two pole breaker. They share a neutral just to save on running more wire, but have to be disconnected together - which is the cause of the two pole breaker.

I'd suggest flipping the breaker and see what it cuts, first guess would be in the kitchen. Since the meter doesn't use much power, as you said, you'd probably be good to share the breaker if it really is only feeding receptacles. I don't know of what the code requirements might be for installing something like this inside of a panel, but it definitely would work this way.

And of course, like the last poster said, breakers don't really cost that much if they need to be moved around a bit.


How can I repair some broken patio stones? The patio around my pool has shown some cracks recently, and today a piece about as big as my fist fell off. What is the best way to repair the broken piece, and what kind of preventative maintenance can I take to maintain the life of the patio?

There are epoxy products that can be used to repair stone, such as this one

This will work to glue the seams of the big chunks back in place. While it could be used to fill other breaks or gaps, it probably will not look very attractive.

Also, as DA01 says in his comment, the overhang makes this a very vulnerable area. Usually stones which overhang have a thicker dimension.

There is not too much you can do unless you want to put a facing under the overhang to help support it, a fairly big job involving cutting strips of matching stone.  You could watch for the beginnings of cracks near the edges and fill them with an outdoor epoxy based material. This will reduce the chance that water gets in them and freezes, which leads to major cracking.

You could also tread lightly on the edges.


How to drill holes in 3/8" thick steel plates? I had to drill some 1/2" holes in 3/8" steel plates. In addition to taking something like 15 min per hole, a brand new drill bit lasts maybe two holes and it is trash.

What is the best way to drill holes in steel that thick at home, assuming no special tools like a plasma cutter?

3/8" mild (hot-rolled) steel isn't difficult to drill, but any bit will fail if you get it hot enough to melt the cutting edge. Each hole should take no more than a minute.

Use a sequence of sizes (1/8", 1/4", 3/8"). This makes for quicker drilling and allows each bit to cool between uses. If you only have "pilot point" bits on hand, use a starter bit that's no larger than the pilot on the next bit to keep things centered.
Use a lubricant. Common household oil is probably adequate.
Keep the bit in alignment. Binding generates heat much more quickly than the cutting process itself.
Cool the bits while they're not being used. A fan across them would do well, or lay them on a damp rag.
Keep the bits sharp. Dull bits create more heat (in the bit and in the operator). A bit sharpener is a great investment for any DIYer, but even a bit of emery cloth can help touch up cutting edges.

More tips


What is an open ground and why would the neutral wire measure 50v? What is an open ground? Also, why would there be 50 V in the neutral and ground wires? I have replaced all outlets and switches and still I have no light.

When you see a phantom voltage like that, it's the hallmark of a sensitive meter. Though sensitivity sounds like a feature, most cheap meters have it too.  Disregard.

Well, we can read a few things from the tea leaves.

You know this wire runs near a "hot" wire for a little bit of distance - enough to pick up an SLF radio signal from the adjacent wire.  If you've ever built/used a crystal radio that uses a tiny earpiece and is passively powered (from the AM airwaves themselves), you understand tiny amounts of power can be induced from radio.

You know this wire is rattling i.e. not connected to any supply.  You know in a North American panelboard you have 4 wires: L1 that's 120.4 volts to ground, L2 that's 119.6V to ground, neutral that's 0.4 volts to ground, and ground that's 0.0V to ground. (assuming a 0.4V neutral-ground drift; YMMV.)  You know two things from the rattling/floating wire.

it is not connected to any of those (because if it was, it would read that voltage).
it is not connected to a load whose other wire is connected to any of those (because if it was, the load would "pull the wire" to the voltage of the other wire.)


How can I remove a non-load bearing wall in my basement? I have two small rooms in basement. I want to remove the common wall between the two and covert the resulting big room into a home theater.

What is the best way to remove the studs, wiring, etc.?

You really need to be careful about removing that wall. I hope there are three rooms in the basement because this sounds load bearing. Is the wall bisecting the basement? If it is a normal non-load bearing wall, my advice is to just go for it.

Find the circuit connected to the wires in the wall, turn it off at the breaker, and cut them out of they way. After you cut them, cap each of the wires keeping them separate and put them into a temporary junction box.

For the Studs, the easiest way to remove them is cutting the nails at the bottom of each one with a reciprocating saw. If you don't have one, beat them out of the way. My guess is that it is old lumber and you have plenty of heavy nails to deal with so "beating them" may be back breaking. Find a friend who has one or pay the neighbor kid a few dollars an hour.

Good luck with the carpet...too many options here.

And save that old lumber. That is good stuff. You just cant use it with new lumber because it is too thick.


New Eaton AFCI/GFCI breaker signals (5 blinks) ground fault, but doesn't trip. How to track it down? Where to start?

*We bought a new house on a day's notice, and now I have to sell this 1885 Victorian. I'd like to minimize the scope of a home inspector's report.
*The house is mostly the original 2-wire, but has a modern breaker box.
*I replaced every 2-prong outlet with 3-prong outlets, so it's not to code.
*I'm an EE, but I'm stumped here...

So I just replaced the breaker for the entire upstairs (4bd/1ba) with an Eaton model# BRLAFGF115CS AFCI/GFCI breaker and planned to add the requisite stickers to each of the un-grounded outlets to meet NEC 2014 code requirements. Upon installation, I performed the initial diagnostics and received an error code on the red LED with 5 blinks, indicating a "ground fault."

This is weird, because even though the breaker indicates a ground fault on this ancient cloth-insulated wiring that must be 1000 feet long in total, this apparent ground fault is not enough to actually trip the GFCI. I mean, does that suggest it's less than 6mA? Given all the mouse hair and dust and other debris I pulled out of those boxes I entered, I'd have been surprised if I didn't have a good deal of ground leakage. The arc and GF test button does trip the breaker, but the 5-blink "ground fault" code seems to not be bad enough to actually trip the GFCI.

Of course, I unplugged everything on the circuit and turned off all the lights, retested, but I still get the 5-blink code. Eaton is no help. I wonder if the GFCI circuit is seeing leakage of less than 6mA and just letting me know, but it's not enough to trip the GFCI? I want the darn blinking to go away, but I don't want to open up 50 boxes and clean all the mouse turds and hair out of those and not solve the problem. Any thoughts? What would you do? I'm on the circuit right now -- at my computer -- so the breaker's holding just fine -- even with a few inductive/resistive loads like fans and space heaters. Weird. I'd like to get this house on the market ASAP, but I don't want to cause alarm and start smashing all this lovely 1885 plaster. This house is 99% original. My plan was to install this one breaker as a test, and then replace all the rest of the breakers that service un-grounded outlets... Also, I can't find a place to buy all those stickers I need.

Thanks in advance!

-Doogan

You may not have a ground-fault at all.  The diagnostic LED displays the last recorded trip code, not any current conditions. Reading through the Eaton documentation, it turns out that it may be reporting a fault that was caused during factory testing.

  Upon installation, if the breaker has not experienced a trip that records a code, it will display the last trip code recorded from tests performed at the factory.

So if the breaker is not tripping, there's likely no problem at all.  When you run the diagnostic (by turning on the breaker, or holding the TEST button), the LED will display the last recorded trip code for 30 iterations.  It is NOT displaying any current circuit information, only the most recent recorded trip code.

Trip Codes

1 Blink = Series Arc
2 Blinks = Parallel Arc
3 Blinks = Short delay
4 Blinks = Overvoltage
5 Blinks = Ground Fault
6 Blinks = Self Test Failure

NOTE: The breaker does not record short-circuit, or overcurrent trips, nor does it record trips caused by pressing the TEST button, or manually switching the breaker off.


How much distance do I need to branch from water heater? I moved my washer and dryer next to my electric water heater. I would like to know how close to the tank can I branch the hot and cold water lines. I would like to use a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer at the end of the 18" flex pipe, or at the tank before the flex pipe. Can this be done?

You can choke (reduce) the hot water line as close as you like, I suppose. Thread a 3/4-1/2 reducer right in the outlet if it makes you happy.

It's not a particularly wise thing to do, however. 1/2" pipe is not a good size for more than one or two fixtures - running everything in your house that uses hot water off one 1/2" pipe will cause your hot water pressure to be excessively low when several things need hot water at once. A 3/4" pipe is more than twice as large (revisit geometry, - .19 sq in .vs .44 sq inch) so it causes less flow restriction and pressure drop - which is why the common approach is to use a 3/4" line to feed 1/2" lines, rather than 1/2" lines everywhere.

If you'd like to branch the 1/2" lines off the 3/4" line "as soon as possible" you can certainly put multiple 1/2" branches right at the end of the 3/4 flex line. That is what many "Manifold" systems as commonly seen with PEX plumbing do.


How to know whether fuse is sufficient for electrical device? How can I find out from the information about an electrical device whether fuse and wiring is sufficient for that particular device?

For example, we are considering buying a septic pump; from the information on the producer website about various types they make, I see pumps with power 1.5 kW and with power 0.8 kW (both for 230 V). Is it ok to plug such device into normal AC power plug. Or would it be better to buy a device with smaller power output, just to be on the safe side?

P.S. Sorry for my English. I hope the post is understandable. (I did not talk in English  about things like this before. I'll be grateful for terminology corrections.)

1500 W/ 230 V = 6.5 A

800 W / 230 V = 3.5 A

Now, a fused circuit should normally be loaded to 80% capacity.  So on a dedicated circuit, you would need an 8 A or 4.5 A fuse.

But, usually circuits feed more than one outlet.  So you need to find out what else is being fed by the same fuse.  Most devices will have a sticker declaring the draw.  Add up the amps, add in your pump, and stay withing the 80% capacity limit.  If you go over, add another breaker/fuse and make it a dedicated circuit.  If amps aren't posted,   W/230 will give you the current draw.


What type of bathroom window for max airflow? I don't have fans for ventilation at the moment and may choose not to have but I have big windows in bathroom. What type of window should i install? The common ones here are those rectangular ones that open from the top, with hinges at the bottom. The window swings open to inside.

The best types of windows for airflow are double hung windows ─ ones that open from the top and bottom. The top part lets out hot air and the bottom part allows fresh, outside air to flow indoors. This works especially well if the top window is near the ceiling, say, within a foot. Windows that open only at the bottom don't really allow a lot of airflow, since they don't allow any air exchange.Edit: If having windows that allow for good ventilation is important to you, then you should invest in one of the following window styles:
•Single/Double Hung
•Casement/Hinged
•Awning or Hopperfrom http://schmidtroofing.com/best-windows-natural-light-ventilation/AndWith a double hung window you can open the bottom and top of the window at the same time. This allows cool air to enter the bottom and hot air to escape out of the top. It makes it possible to ventilate a room using just a single window and to do it effectively. When trying to ventilate a room with single hung windows you need multiple windows in order to create airflow, and they still aren’t as effective as double hung windows at getting rid of warm air.from https://modernize.com/windows/types/double-hung-windows


how to fasten wood joist to cinder block notch I want to lay three 2x4 in the cinder block notch(as shown in the pic) as joist for synthetic deck, I need to fasten the wood to the cinder block in order to align the three 2x4 and to make sure it doesn't move, I thought about filling the notch with new concrete and bonding agent but not sure if such a small notch of concrete will provide enough strength and durability. I might be able to put in an angled screw or nail into the wood and block, but not sure if that is the best option. Any advice is appreciated


On demand water heater using a propane tank I have a single wide trailer. (The main gas line blew out the back and is under code so $4,000.00  to fix it plus permits because the main need to be moved from under the Trailer).

I would like to put in an on-demand water heater that uses propane from a tank. Usage would be for 2 people, 2 showers a day and washing dishes

Can I use the small propane tanks like for a barbecue? I have one old tank about 2 times the size of the usual barbecue tank — I think 40lbs. I think barbecue tanks are 20 LB. I am a little rusty at home repairs but I have to do this one myself due to my funds being low. I am in Phoenix, Arizona so no worries about freezing lines. Can I run the flue through the roof where the old water heater ran through, or does it need to be made larger than 4"?

I usually encourage DIY projects, but when it comes to gas applications, I have to strongly caution you to consider using a licensed gas installer to connect an on demand water heater. Nothing in a home is more dangerous than gas and it MUST be installed correctly and pressure tested. Venting the exhaust is extremely important as well, and a mistake can be fatal.

An on demand water heater is a great idea as long as it is sized correctly. I don't thin you will be happy with a 20 or 40 pound tank however.  Your local propane dealers will usually supply you a larger tank at no charge as long as you buy the gas from them. The other advantage is that they will come and swap out spent tanks or refill them on site so you don't have to be lugging a tank back and forth to a refill station, and re-priming and firing the system every time you change tanks.

Bottom line is that if you are not experienced with gas installs, don't take a chance with the health and safety of your family. You are not hooking up an outdoor BBQ!!


What are the structural and health issues for a long-time slow-leaking toilet? I recently discovered a very slow toilet leak (only when flushing), which has dampened the bathroom floor, and dripped onto the basement ceiling, where there is now a pretty mold spot.

A restoration company gave me a quote to remove the floor in the bathroom, the affected area of the ceiling, and 12 inches (31cm) of drywall along the base of the bathroom floor.

My question is:  How important is it to replace all the drywall (both on the bathroom walls, and in the basement ceiling)? The quote was to remove the area with > 13% moisture.

Is this strictly necessary?

I'm concerned about the structural integrity of the wall and ceiling, as well as any possible health implications, since the leak was used toilet water.  As the water had to wick into the walls, from the floor, I suspect the water there should be "relatively" clean, but the leak has also been going on for quite some time apparently, so who knows what's been growing in that water.

If there is mold on the basement ceiling, it is highly likely that there is mold growing behind the drywall where water has wicked up the bathroom walls -especially if this has been an ongoing, untreated problem. I personally would not try to save money at the risk of leaving mold growing in that area.

Mold can trigger a host of health problems, some very serious. I once met a woman who had a condition where she was debilitated by sensitivity to perfumes and artificial fragrances (contact or exposure could cause her to be be bed-ridden for months at a time. The weekend I had met her was the first time in three years that she had left her house (her home was a strictly controlled environment - air filters, hermetically sealed rooms, the whole nine yards. She explained that her condition was triggered due to living in a basement for about 8 months where mold was present in the ceiling (she didn't find out about the mold until after she came down with the health problem. I know this is an extreme example, but it is one example of what can happen if mold is left unabated.

Sorry about the verbose response, but take the repairs seriously and don't skimp out just to save time or money. Your long term health is worth the up-front cost of repairs.


fuse panel and sub panel replacement with no ground to be found Replacing an old fuse panel with a new breaker panel, and a remote fuse sub-panel (on the other side of the basement) with a new breaker sub-panel. There is no water pipe anywhere near the incoming service and no ground rods.

I plan on installing two ground rods (but existing the incoming service appears to have a ground) and then bonding the main panel ground to the nearest water pipe. I will bond the sub-panel to the main panel using a separate ground bar and keeping the neutrals isolated from ground in the remote sub-panel.

Do I ground both the existing service ground and the ground rods at the main panel?
Does this sound like the best way to go?

Yes the utility grounded conductor and your grounding electrodes are connected in your main service panel, if you use driven rods for your electrodes #6 copper is all that is needed from the rods back to the panel.


Why does my furnace drip bucket fill up so frequently? We have an oil furnace that heats the house using a two-zone hot-water circuit, and also acts as an on-demand hot water heater. There is a pipe coming off the collection of pipes coming out of it that has a 2-quart drip bucket beneath it. This bucket fills every other day. In other homes I've seen with this arrangement, this bucket never fills, and any water in it evaporates after a day or so. What's causing it to fill so quickly, and is it something worth calling the furnace repair service for?

Depends what it's dripping.

If it's a high-effiency condensing boiler (despite not usually boiling the water these days, a central heating device that heats water is referred to as a boiler, while furnace refers to those that heat air, in the usual vocabulary), it may be dripping condensate (mostly water) from the exhaust. This often has a somewhat purplish coloration (just as a possible diagnostic/disambiguation point) from the non-mostly-water fraction. Those are usually directed to a drain, or to a collection bucket with a condensate pump that pumps to a drain.

It could also be a straightforward leak, (usually) from an overpressure/overtemperature valve - look for that type of valve on the pipe that is dripping. If so either the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced, or the furnace controls are slightly out of whack causing it to actuate.


What is the easiest way to install multiple 5A BS546 sockets next to one another? I intend to replace a wall light fitting with two or three 5A BS546 sockets for table-lamp-style lights:

As far as I know there is no 2- or 3-gang variant for this socket, but I assume that it will fit onto a normal BS1363 box (right...?).  So I assume I would have to install two or three of these boxes next to one another.

What is the best way of routing the wiring from one to the next?  Will surface mounting be easier than burying them?  They won't be easily visible and the wall is plaster on brick.

Yes those sockets fit on normal single gang backboxes.

The easiest solution is probably to just fit surface mount plastic boxes and then run normal twin and earth cable (any size from 1mm2 to 2.5mm2 will be fine) between them. No need for conduit. Surface mounting is easier both because you don't have to make a hole in the wall and because surface boxes are the full size of the faceplate so you can just butt them up (flush boxes are smaller than the faceplate so if you want the faceplates to sit next to each other you have to space the boxes just right).

Normal surface mount boxes have knockouts at the back of the sidewall (intended for use with cables that are directly clipped to the surface of the wall). Be careful when knocking them out, it's easy to break the boxes.

You can get backboxes designed to take two single gang accessories on one box. I've also seen boxes for one single and one double but i've never seen one for three singles.

Another option is "Euro modules". While I have never seen a double or triple 5A socket as a single unit you can get 5A sockets in Euro module form and install them in a Euro module faceplate. This would allow you to put three 5A bs546 sockets on one plate, but you will likely have to order the parts from specialist suppliers. 5A BS546 Euro modules and 3 gang (6 module) Euro faceplates are both fairly unusual items.

Unlike Americans we don't normally clamp cables where they enter and leave back boxes. We also don't have prescriptive rules for box-fill. We do however sleeve our earth conductors which Americans don't.


Swimming Pool Pump Priming Issues I have recently purchased a Clarke (SPP15) Swimming Pool Pump, to help me clean out my garden pond.
Similar Item Here: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-spp15-swimming-pool-pump/
The pump is apparently self-priming, but after filling the strainer basket area with water, attaching flexi-pipe to the inlet and outlet of the pump with the other ends in the pond water, not a lot happens when I switch it on.

Can it take quite a long time to automatically remove air from the system? - Am I turning the pump off too soon, thinking that nothing is happening?
It doesn't seem right to me to keep the pump running if no water is being pumped.

I have noticed that after prefilling the inlet pump with water, the pump then begins pumping, but isn't this manual priming?
What am I doing wrong?

According to the manual:

  Note: The pump is only self-priming
  when filled with water. Refilling is
  only necessary if the pump has
  been drained, or if all the water
  has been lost.

So, the "self-priming" label just means you don't have to fill the entire inlet hose. (Seems a bit misleading to me, but such is life.)

Edit: since this pump is designed to be a permanent part of a pool, just pouring some water into the pump the few times it's allowed to go dry isn't a big deal. It's a bigger problem for your application where (presumably) the pump is drained and put away between uses, but that isn't what the pump is designed for, so that's probably as good as you'll do with this pump.