Ceiling leaks When it Rains, Roof Looks Good My ceiling drips water sometimes when it rains (especially when it rains hard). It seems inconsistent though, so I think that it may have something to do with the angle at which the rain comes in. The leak is at the apex of my ceiling, so I know the leak must be just about directly above that spot on my ceiling. My roof is about 10 years into its life span, but it seems to be in good shape. I got on-top of my roof, but couldn't see anything wrong with the shingles near the spot that leaks. How should I proceed? Should I buy some more shingles and put them on top of the others at that same spot on my roof? Should I take up a bucket of water and see if I can reproduce the leak?

Since the general vicinity of the leak is at the peak of the roof it definitely decreases the amount of time pinpointing the exact location. Depending on your roof pitch it is quite possible for rain to be blown under the roof shingles. The easiest why to repair the opening is with roof cement. Any brand that is petroleum based will work. And because you know the general location start by checking each shingle to see if it can be lifted from the one below it. Shingles have a adhesive strip that bonds it to the one below. If you locate one gently lift it enough to smear a tablespoonful of roof cement and press back into place. Also be on the look-out for roofing nails that have worked their way through the shingles. Although rare nail 'pops' do occur on roofs. It maybe easier to remove the nail than risk damaging the shingles by hammering it back. Apply cement if you do. Check the cap shingles on the ridge line. U.V rays will desiccate the asphalt to the point it becomes crumbly. Look for any splits on the shingles and 'thread-bare' ones that have lost their asphalt particles from erosion. Trowel cement just enough to do the job (too much may soften or melt the shingles in heat prone climates.


Patch holes drilled in kitchen cabinet shelf To attach under-the-counter appliances to a kitchen cabinet, we drill holes through the bottom shelf of that cabinet. Bolts run through those holes. For example, clock-radios, coffee makers, iPad holders, and over-the-range microwaves.
When later removing such items, we are left with unsightly holes left in that bottom shelf.
➥  Is there a way to plug or cover such holes?
I have heard of thin yet strong plastic patches with adhesive on one side that can applied like a Band-Aid, sticking to the remaining shelf while preventing anything from falling through or snagging the hole. But I have no idea what such a product might be called, or where to purchase.

"Shelf Paper" (which may actually be plastic, or plastic coated) covering the whole shelf is common. Also known as "contact paper", particularly the "adhesive" version (contact adhesive...)
Since it covers the whole shelf, it's less likely to be peeled up at the edges than a patch just over the hole would be. They make many "cheerful" patterns, but these days if I use it at all I prefer plain white, but that's an opinion. The assumption here is that the shelf itself is not anything special that you would care about covering it up, you just want a clean, smooth, easy to clean surface on it.


Is the powerwashing the subcontractor did on our deck "good enough?" Our family is trying to repair our deck.  Prior to any sort of staining, of course, it was necessary to clean it of first.  Afterall, the entirety of the structure was gray, and now it actually looks like wood again.

However, we are concerned that the 6 h.p. powerwasher used was not good enough to allow the staining the longest possible life.  A picture is here:

The black bits seem to be present just at the location pictured, however, you'll notice there are still streaks of grey on the newly revealed wood color.  What I'm worried about is that discoloration indicates places where the new sealant is more likely to fail than it should be due to dirtiness on application.

The service was done by a subcontractor, but the overall project was expensive enough I think we can have high standards for this.  Should I be concerned at all about what I"m looking at if this is a done job?  I'd appreciate any advice.

(Also, he appears to have forgotten an entire rail.)

I think it looks pretty good. If something was clearly missed you could call them back for those area. I once used a solid color stain on my deck, but I didn't like that once it peeled, it looked bad. I recommend a semi-transparent stain. The gray and black areas will add character. Try a small area and see how it looks before doing the whole deck. I would never paint it or even worse, use one of those "deck restore" products that goes on super thick. Once that stuff starts peeling, (and it will), you would have a huge mess on your hands. Fortunately, all you need is some stain with a good protectant in it.


is it recomended to install 3/8" travertine stone tile directly onto drywall for a kitchen back splash I am have a debate with a client and partner as to whether we need to install a hardy board over the existing drywall ( including with screws and adhesive ) before installing travertine for a kitchen back splash. the tile is a porous  finish 3/8"thick travertine tile  on 12'x12" sheets, the space to cover is about 18' x 30', the dry wall is pre-painted and about 15 to 20 years old

The kitchen splash hardly ever gets wet enough to do anything to the drywall behind it. Travertine, since it is very porous, should be sealed to keep cooking grease, food splatters etc, from staining or discoloring the tile. The sealer will help prevent water passing through as well.


Can I set a 2 3/8 metal post into a 4x4 hole? I removed a rotten 4x4 post that was used for a fence.  The concrete hole seems sound.  I was thinking of putting a 2 3/8 metal pole in this 4x4 hole and then filling with concrete.

I am not sure if there would be enough new concrete around the metal post to make a secure fit.

If this works I will probably replace all the 4x4 wood posts with metal posts.

Any ideas or previous experience around this would be appreciated.

You'll have a hard time getting concrete into a 1" gap. You'll want to either enlarge the hole slightly or use a loose sand mix concrete, which will likely crack up, but should retain the post adequately.


exterior to interior outlet i am looking for a wall outlet the will alow me to plug in to it form out side and to plug into it on the inside of the house. need one side to be female and the other male.  anyone seen one of these or heard of them? looking to be able to get one from a big box or even a small box store. only one i have found online so far is from a site that i have never heard of and seams quite over priced at 90.00 bucks

It's called an inlet.  They don't need to cost $90 (unless you really want them to). They are odd, but I would still expect to find a NEMA 5-15 inlet in the $15-25 range.

Keep in mind electrical parts don't lend themselves to online sale, because they are low in value, common as dirt, and heavy of weight.  Your best prices for anything slightly oddball will be at whichever electrical supply house doesn't mind giving you trade prices.


Is this notch in a stud acceptable? My contractor notched a wall stud to turn the elbow of the gas line and i don't think he reinforced it.
The wall above it holds a 21 inch wide by 36 inch height wall cabinet. There is also an over the range microwave that is partly supported by that stud. Is this fine?
Did he cut into it too much?

It appears that this is a king stud and there is no jack stud for the opening.

Did he cut into it too much?

It appears that the notch is less than(?), not more than, 50% of the stud width, which is not ideal but it should be ok.
Cabinets and microwave are safe. Is the wall supporting any roofing structure or second story structure? I.E. A load bearing wall?
I would have done it differently but it is done now.
Shorter nipple off of the 90 degree elbow, pass the pipe through the stud by drilling a hole in the stud and turning it so it comes straight out of the wall and then a valve. It would have been more PIPE work but in my opinion the correct way to do it.


What could have caused the hot and cold water to stop running in one sink, while all others are fine? I have two knobs, and one faucet, in my bathroom sink. Both hot and cold slowed to a dribble at the same time. I was brushing my teeth, hot water running, then heard a "pop" sound and the water immediately slowed to a very small stream. I turned it off then on, and tried the cold water, but both seem to have been affected. No other sinks/faucets in the house seem to be affected. We have two sinks and faucets in our master bath...only mine was affected.

Filter screen is clear. And it's not like it slowed gradually over time, but all at once after the pop sound I heard.

Thoughts?

OK...I'm embarrassed. I know I said it wasn't the filter, because every three months I take of the filters and clean them with vinegar.

I went ahead and took out the aerator assembly, and there was what looked like very thin plastic stuck in the hole in the center, blocking all water from coming through.

A few years ago I saw similar material in my shower faucet when I was replacing it.

All I can imagine is that some type of coating is flaking off from the PVC pipes (house is 15 years old). Is that possible??

Thanks to all for the responses...gives me some material for future issues as the home ages. :-)


What structure is required for my neighbors adjoining fence? My next door neighbor has a drive way and the council workers have put a gate up (looks like 6ft fence panels). The post that is next to my fence has simply been drilled through my fence and into a post I have. The post is not sunk or anything just drilled into my fence with three screws.

Will what they have done weaken my exiting post? Is what they have done suitable for a 6ft gate?

Fences usually have posts of 2 sizes or grades.

Line post are smaller diameter and not as well braced, as they support only fence.

End posts are larger and better braced for extras like gates.
They are meant for tensioning  chain link fences.

If they've attached to a line post, it will probably not support a gate for long.

I would insist that they support the gate with a properly braced post ( usually involving concrete).


Breaker Box problems My family and i just moved into a mobile home.  Only one problem, the breaker to our plugs is a 15, i was told that means 110, well we cant use all the plugs in our house at the same time or it causes the breaker to flip. What can we do to fix this situation to where we can use all the plugs in our house?

If you only have one breaker that feeds all of the outlets (plugs are the other end), then there is nothing simple that you can do, someone made that decision when your mobile home was built. In order to change it, an electrician would need to open up the walls and change the wiring, as well as add another breaker in your panel, which may or may not be possible.

Are you absolutely sure all of your outlets are on the same breaker though? A simple way to check is to plug in a radio, turn up the volume, and turn off the breaker. If it goes silent, then that outlet is tied to that breaker. If not, then turn off another breaker to see which one controls it. Do that for every outlet and create a map/list of what rooms are on what breakers. But it might be what you fear. In small mobile homes, they may have a very small breaker panel, so they have one 2 pole / 240V breaker for the Stove / oven, one 2 pole 240V for an Air Conditioner, one single pole 15 or 20A breaker for the kitchen outlets, and one 15A for the rest of the house outlets.


What is the bedroom section of a master bedroom with foyer called? Is there a particular term used for the section of a master bedroom that has the bed, if there is an adjoining foyer that is also part of the master bedroom?

 (Master bedroom)
+---------------+
|     *****     |
|     *BED*     |
|     *   *     |
|     *****     |
|               |
|     (???)     |
|               |
+-----     -----+
|               |
|     (Foyer)   |
|               |
|               |
+------===------+

I was thinking "sleeping area", "bed area", but I was wondering if there is a more standard way of referring to it?

If the door to the suite is in the foyer section, it could also be called the antechamber.  That would make the bed section the main chamber or bedchamber.

...and of course, no discussion of chambers should ignore the chamberpot  ;)


Banging noise coming from somewhere every time when open or close the tap When open or close the tap in kitchen, bathroom or laundry knock or bang nose comes in every time. Any solutions? Thanks in advance.

Is this a new phenomena? You're describing "water hammer" and it's caused by a sudden pressure change causing the pipe to jump, basically. There are a few strategies but since you're saying multiple things cause it, start by making sure there's no place where a loose pipe can bang against other objects, such as wall framing.  In all likelihood you need a "water hammer arrester" installed (or replaced)


Barbecue hose replacement My barbecue hose shows pretty serious cracks, after 10 years. Assuming I can find a replacement part, can I simply screw it in? Is there some tape or substance I need to put on the threads to be sure it is sealed correctly? Any special care I should apply?

These are usually flair seals, (metal to metal) no sealing compound is needed if they are and if used can create leaks, the best thing is to get some "gas leak bubble solution) or some soapy water and spray the fitting once pressurized, no bubbles you are good to start grilling.


How to ensure proper drainage in a back yard Most homes in the Phoenix Metro area have slump block walls around separating the side and back yards. My house has a small side yard with a grass area and the back area is red brick on half and a pool on the other half. When it rains, it seems like the brick area floods and there is no place for the water to go and I think it's because the grass area is higher than the brick area. Should I be worried? At least it's bricks and the water drains eventually but during "the big one" it could end up flooding the back patio area and 3 inches later it's in the house.

See  How to build a french drain

This is exactly the purpose for one. They are made to drain water from areas that have poor drainage from clay in the soil or other problems,
I would put it in right on the edge of the grass and the brick. That way the water from the grass will flow into it before reaching the brick and the water from the brick will flow into the drain before it ever reaches your house.


What are the holes in this brick fireplace? Does anyone know why there are two holes in this fireplace box?  I had to muck with the picture to make them visible...they are circled in red.

They are fresh air supplies for the firebox. Houses built in recent times are have less air infiltration to supply air for combustion in fireplaces, so the fireplaces have had to have air "piped in" to allow for proper burning.


Hanging Drywall Around a Door Easy question. I'm hanging drywall around a doorway. Do I put screws in both the jack and king studs or only one? For studs in the field, it's straight forward. But, for the doorway, where the jack and king are right next to each other, I'm not sure what to do.

I do not think you will have an issue with either place that you locate them. However in the jack studs you are next to the door and your door casing and fit might be cleaner / easier - no bulges ripples waves etc. just a nice smooth straight surface for your casing.


Why is the joint compound cracking around a repaired patch in my ceiling? Backstory: We had a leak in our roof that damaged some of the ceiling drywall. When we put new drywall up, the pre-existing drywall "sagged" a bit lower than the fresh piece that was screwed into the ceiling joists. Because of this, I layered the joint compound so that the two would be as level as possible.

In the latest coat of joint compound, the compound is showing small cracks that I assume happen while it is drying (and shrinking?).

I've read elsewhere not to use sandpaper but some sort of sanding sponge. Confirm or Deny?
Do I need to use a different product to fill these gaps?
Would this be caused by too thick of a coat of joint compound?
What is the best way to build it up so that next time I can do this right?

Firstly, @Michael Karas answer addresses the "sagging"

Cracking:
Premixed Joint Compound (JC) hardens by drying out.  As such, it tends to shrink.  I only use it for final top coats, where the shrinkage is mitigated and application layers are about 1/8 or so.

Setting JC is dry and mixed with water to a similar consistency as Premixed JC, but it hardens chemically (due to plaster of paris).  It shrinks much less.

If your patch is dry and firm, you can continue to overcoat it with premix until you obtain a flat surface.

If it is not firm, remove offending parts until you have a firm base.  Replace with setting JC, adding fiberglass mesh tape or other backing as needed.  Bare JC shouldn't span more than 3/4 inch without a mechanical backing:  Refer to Jon Raynors answer here


Why is my toilet leaking around the base even after a seal replacement? We have a toilet that was in the mid price range. When it was originally installed by professionals it didn't appear to leak for a few days. Then slowly I noticed dampness around the edge of the toilet base, which grew.

The plumbers came back and reset it. Same issue. They then reset it at my expense with a different type of seal, not the wax ring but a rubber gasket thing. Same issue. Once more they reset with a homemade wax ring made from 2 regular rings cut and warmed and sealed together. Same damn issue.

Money is tight and I gave up for a while, simply cleaning the floor often. How can I fix this?

Before you remove the toilet (again), make sure that the leak is not from somewhere else. On more than one occasion I have been called out for this problem and the complaint was that the toilet-to-floor seal was bad, but when I got there it was from the tank (the tank-to-bowl seal, the fill valve connection, a hairline crack, etc.). Water running in a thin stream down the side of the toilet is very difficult to detect; try putting some food coloring in the tank and, without flushing, see if you have a leak elsewhere.


Strange smell coming from my dishwasher I bought a Bosch SMS50E98EU a few month ago. During the second half of the washing cycle it smells like burnt cable. Initially I thought it is okay and will go away after the first few uses, but it is there after the tenth use.

What should I check? Or should I call an electrician?

If it is still under warranty, have it repaired under warranty service. It sounds (smells?) like a defect.

If you're stuck with it, try to locate exactly where the smell is emanating. Some of the wiring and the controller should be inside the door. Removing the outer door wall will expose this. You might see slight smoking or one the wires may feel unusually hot during operation.

If nothing in the door seems out of order, the rest of the wiring is underneath, requiring removal and placing on blocks for further investigation. Even if you find the culprit, there is probably nothing you could do DIY to repair the problem, but you don't know if you don't try. You might find a previous repair using wire with the wrong insulation and simple replacement could solve the problem. If nothing else, identifying exactly where and when in the cycle the problem is can greatly reduce diagnostic charges from the repair person, and garner you certain respect for identifying the problem.

You are probably better off calling an appliance repair person instead of an electrician. Anyone advertising themselves as an electrician will have most of their experience in wiring buildings, not appliances. They would not be clueless, but could struggle with basic things like how to remove the access panel.


Roof truss with Odd 2x4 T-Shaped Reinforcement. Why is that there? We needed to replace the air conditioning evaporator coil and air handling element.  In this house the cooling element is located inside the attic of the house.  And up in the attic space is really tight. The house has 2x4 roof trusses, and those trusses are reinforced with an additional 2x4 attached to create a T-shaped cross section.  I've never seen this type of construction before.  See photos...

The reinforcement(2"x4" construction lumber) is attached as a T-Shape.

So why is that there?  Is that a standard truss manufacturing technique?  I'm guessing the addition is to prevent bowing (or failure in that mode...)  My immediate problem is that with those elements there we are absolutely unable to snake the evaporator unit thru the trusses to even get them into the attic. There is not enough width between two adjacent trusses to push the unit through.
My tendency is to remove the top of the T on two adjacent truss elements and replace the top of the T-off center (think L shaped reinforcement...).  As far as I can tell that will still perform the reinforcement function and allow for Heating Ventilation AirConditioning (HVAC) repair.

Those are stiffeners, as you suspected. Large roof systems require stabilization of those long members. The truss plan provides schedules for the carpenters to follow in adding them on-site. It makes transport simpler.
I don't think it would jeopardize the integrity of the truss by shifting them flush to one side of the truss member, but you'd need an engineer to give you legal approval. Just be sure to nail them at least as often as they are now with 12d nails or better.
Of course, you could always remove them and replace them as they are now after repairs have been made.


What is the best type of 6 ft wood fence to block wind in a yard? We moved into a newly built house and I had a large clearing done. I was short sighted and had the loggers clear too much. Now we have a big very windy yard. I am going to plant trees and put of feces and over time try to build more of a fortress for wind around the house because now the house has no trees around it and big wind.
So right now I want to put up a 6 ft fence, 48 feet wide, on a north facing hill that sits above our house. It is right behind the house and wide open from the north and the wind when it is from the north or northwest just rips right down.
I don't know much about physics and this type of thing. But I read on one website that a fence with gaps will be better for wind blocking than a solid fence.
I guess it defuses it or something? But if we are trying to block wind from our back yard, is it better o do a solid fence or one with gaps?
We will plant some small trees in front of the fence. And over time we will plant an evergreen hedge ( maybe spruce trees) to make more of a wind blocking thing behind the fence.
I am most concerned with putting the right fence in for the purpose of wind blocking. And also I am wondering if a fence wood can handle a lot of wind on I until the evergreen hedge matures in a few years.
thanks

As a rule of thumb, tall objects can cast a wind shadow about three to six times their height which diminishes with distance. However, turbulence dominates close to the ground so don't plan on getting 18'  of wind shadow from a fence.

In addition, clearing the land means that the wind will have additional velocity...blowing across 600' of open space actually moves the wind exposure class of a structure from B to C under ASCE-7.

The long and the short is that if you sit next to the fence you can probably create a localized effect, but you cannot use a fence to significantly alter the wind effect across an entire three acre site.


Is there a way to extend electrical wire where the splices can be finished over? I want to extend some wires to relocate some switches. Normally one might do this by splicing new wires in and covering the junction box with a cover plate.

Is there a way to permanently splice wires together such that the splices don't need to be accessible?

I'm putting this up as an answer, mostly because there wasn't enough space in the comments. If I'm completely misunderstanding, please point it out, so that I and others might learn.

The big box stores in the US sell something called the Tyco Electronics Romex splice kit. (Model # CPGI-1116377-2.) They say the following:

Tyco Electronic's Non-metallic splice and tap kits provide a fast and reliable method for splicing or tapping 2 wire w/ ground and splicing 3 wire w/ground non-metallic cables up to 300 volts. They are designed and approved for use in rework within existing structures. Splice and Tap Kits also eliminate wire nuts for installation and replace the conventional method for adding a splice or tap for non-metallic cable without the need for exposed and unsightly junction boxes. NEC approved Article 334-40b.

2 Wire Ccnnection
For Use On 12 or 14 AWG (300 Volt) 2 wire NM cable with ground
Eliminates junction boxes and wire nuts
Fast & simple to install
NEC compliant - article 334-40b, 2005 & 2008 NEC
UL & CSA listed

  NEC 334.40(B) Devices of Insulating Material. Switch, outlet, and tap devices of insulating material shall be permitted to be used without boxes in exposed cable wiring and for rewiring in existing buildings where the cable is concealed and fished. Openings in such devices shall form a close fit around the outer covering of the cable, and the device shall fully enclose the part of the cable from which any part of the covering has been removed. Where connections to conductors are by binding-screw terminals, there shall be available as many terminals as conductors.

I think it's generally sensible to use junction boxes, but it seems like this product would be technically permissible.

Comments?

((edit, following comments...)) It turns out that the wording of the NEC is subtle and specific for a reason. It talks about "...concealed and fished...", which @tester101 pointed out means that the wire can't be stapled in place (ie, it has to have been fished in). This would seem reasonable, as a stapled wire couldn't be pulled back out for inspection/repair/whatever. So, I'd have to imagine that an AHJ would legitimately fail this particular application because the wires would be stapled below the junction box and any holes in the framing may not let the join pass through.


Can I install 120v and 240v receptacles behind the same two-pole breaker? I have installed a number of receptacles around my woodworking shop, all NEMA 5-20R duplex receptacles with separate feeds to their top and bottom halves, and a shared neutral and ground. These are all behind a single common-trip two-pole 20A breaker (GCFI), using 12-3/wg Romex to "daisy chain" from one duplex receptacle to the next (two hots from alternate legs, neutral, and ground).
I now find myself needing a 20A 240V receptacle in one of these locations. I am not worried about overloading, as no other tools will ever be operating on the circuit when this one is in use.
Can I replace one of these duplex NEMA 5-20R with a single NEMA 6-20R (alternating hots plus ground), and if so, does the neutral-to-neutral to continue the chain count as a "splice" in my box-fill calculations?
I think that the common-trip breaker exempts me from the "only line-to-neutral" requirement (2020 NEC 210.4.C), and cannot seem to find any other restrictions about mixing line-to-line (240V) and line-to-neutral (120V) receptacles.

What you built is called a multi-wire branch circuit.
You must follow all the rules for a multi-wire branch circuit, including pigtailing neutral and not splicing neutral through a device (e.g. no using the 2 silver screws on a recep).
If it has only 120V loads, it can use breakers which do not have common trip (e.g. handle tied breakers or quadplexes without common trip).  Yes, you are allowed to mix both  120V and 240V loads without restriction... however, if you do, the breaker must be common trip.
In fact, they make a special receptacle just for that.  It has a NEMA 6-20 socket and a NEMA 5-20 socket in the standard receptacle package.  They also make one with a 6-15 and 5-15.


Junction box above ceiling to add second sub panel from existing sub panel feed I'm posting this question to determine if there is a safe manner to do this that meets code and isn't a redneck solution.

The sub panel in my garage is run off a 50 amp breaker that is in my service box/panel outside.  The wire appears to be 4 awg (possibly 3, but at least 4) aluminum wire.  I couldn't seem to find any labeling on the wire or sheathing, so that has been annoying.  It seems I could maybe upgrade this to at least 55A if it is 4 awg aluminum, but that's another question.  The sub panel wire runs through roof just above the ceiling.

I need to add a 50A/240V circuit on the other side of the garage from the sub panel.  One option is to run it from the existing sub panel, and I can do that but something to note is that the sub panel wire runs directly above where I need to put this 50A outlet.

So, I'm wondering if there is an approved way to splice the sub panel wire in a junction box above the ceiling, and then I'd only have to buy wire to go directly down the wall from there (or in conduit, if need be).  This would save me all kinds of snaking and about 25ft of 6awg copper.

If the answer is yes, do I have to run it to a sub panel first, or can I run it directly to something like this:  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Parallax-PGU055C-60A-120-240V-Outdoor-RV-Power-Outlet-with-20A-1-50A-2-Pole-Breaker-14-50R-5-20R2-GFl-Receptacle/100815504

I guess that kind of negates the cost savings on wire, but it might be easier still.

As I write this I feel like I'm maybe asking how to cobble something, and I'd really rather not cobble electrical work :).

I'd use a flush mount NEMA 1 pull box and mechanical setscrew/splice connectors

While an ordinary junction box is simply too small for splicing 4AWG conductors, larger boxes are available.  These are called pull boxes or NEMA enclosures, and in particular, you need a flush mount (into the ceiling), NEMA 1 (indoor) box.  Size-wise, you are looking at a minimum dimension of 6" across as a 4/4/4/6 or 4/4/4/4 SER cable will fit into a 1" conduit of the appropriate type (nobody uses Type A PVC conduit, but it provides the most fill area/diameter of any conduit type in the Code, so its what's used when transposing cable sizes into conduit sizes for this) and NEC 314.28(A)(2) requires the box to be at least six times as long as the largest conduit entry into it, more or less:

  (2) Angle or U Pulls, or Splices. Where splices or where angle
  or U pulls are made, the distance between each raceway entry
  inside the box or conduit body and the opposite wall of the
  box or conduit body shall not be less than six times the metric
  designator (trade size) of the largest raceway in a row. This
  distance shall be increased for additional entries by the amount
  of the sum of the diameters of all other raceway entries in the
  same row on the same wall of the box. Each row shall be calculated individually, and the single row that provides the maximum distance shall be used.

  Exception: Where a raceway or cable entry is in the wall of a box or
  conduit body opposite a removable cover, the distance from that wall to
  the cover shall be permitted to comply with the distance required for one
  wire per terminal in Table 312.6(A).

  The distance between raceway entries enclosing the same
  conductor shall not be less than six times the metric designator
  (trade size) of the larger raceway.

  When transposing cable size into raceway size in
  314.28(A)(1) and (A)(2), the minimum metric designator
  (trade size) raceway required for the number and size of
  conductors in the cable shall be used.

Inside this box, the actual wire splicing is performed using appropriately sized mechanical splice connectors ("Polaris" or "Unitap" are common trade names for them) for the hots and neutral, and a small equipment grounding bar for the ground wires -- this ground bar screws into a pre-tapped hole for such on the back of the box using a 10-32 machine screw.  All of these connections will need to be torqued to manufacturer specification using an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver, by the way.

As to mounting the box, you'll want to use a piece or two of scrap 1x or electrical strut ("unistrut") as crossmembers between the joists to mount the box to, given that your average NEMA 1 box is designed to be mounted through the back, not a side.  You'll need to screw it to the crossmembers with the appropriate screw for the crossmembers you're using, too -- NEMA boxes are not designed to be nailed to things.

The RV outlet is a subpanel

The good news is that the RV outlet assembly is a subpanel, so provided you use appropriately sized cable (6/3 copper NM is fine here provided physical damage is of no concern), it's no different than any other situation where you have two subpanels on the same feeder.  The "feeder tap" rules in NEC 240.24 do not apply here, by the way, since the conductors from the splice point to the RV outlet assembly are sized for the full 50A the breaker in the main panel will allow.

(As a sidenote, this logic does not apply to a simple receptacle -- the use of a plain receptacle here would result in a mix of utilization devices and subpanels on the same circuit section, which is something that the NEC does not appear to contemplate.)


Why doesn't AC equipment come with dehumidifier only option? Every AC unit dehumidifies when cooling is on. I'm just wondering why dehumidification only is not an option, as is in standalone dehumidifiers? E.g. my basement stays pretty cool even in the summer but humidity can easily be 60-70%. I would like to run the dehumidifier in its dedicated AC unit without necessarily cooling but not have a standalone dehumidifier that has to have water drained separately. But to get it in the 40-50% range using AC, I would need to also cool the place to around 60°.

The coil on a good dehumidifier is SIGNIFICANTLY colder than the coil on a typical air conditioner.

A typical central AC unit is configured so the air coming off the coil is approximately 20 degrees (F) colder than the air entering the coil, and tends to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 52-55 degrees (F).

As the air passes over the coil, water below the coil temperature's dew point condenses onto the coil and drips off into the drain pan. When 52F air at 100% RH warms to 72F, its humidity falls to 50%. If it rises to 80F, its humidity falls to 38%.

HOWEVER... if your goal is 72F air that's drier than 50%, or 80F air that's drier than 38%, you need a colder coil. To get 72F air down to 30%RH (or get 80F air down to 23%), the coil temperature needs to be ~39F.

(For more info, Google 'psychrometric chart')

This is why cheap dehumidifiers throw off a lot of heat, but still can't seem to get the room much below 50% RH... and why most typical central AC systems feel clammy at temperatures below 74F. As the temperature falls, they become incapable of wringing enough humidity out of the air to make it feel dry.

This is also why most window air conditioners leave the room feeling humid at ANY temperature... they just don't get cold enough to properly dehumidify the air, especially at colder temperatures.

This also reveals a nifty hack you can do with some central AC units to radically improve their humidity-removal (at the expense of significantly higher power consumption, and a possible risk of freezing the coil if you aren't careful). If you slow down the air moving over the coil (by reducing the speed of the blower fan), the coil gets colder, and more humidity gets removed from the air.

If your central AC has an "ECM" type motor, read its service manual carefully... especially the part about low-voltage/control wiring. There's an EXCELLENT possibility that it has a jumper/DIP switch/terminal (probably marked "Dh", "DEHU", or "Dehumidistat") that's normally closed, but when open will reduce the blower speed to ~80% of normal. By removing the jumper and opening the contacts, you can get the humidity a good 5-10% lower that you'd otherwise be able to achieve.

On SOME systems, particularly Carrier/Bryant with "PerfectHumidity", there's another option... if you close "red" to "yellow" (powering up the condenser) while leaving green (blower fan) open, it'll reduce the blower speed to 60% of normal. Normally, this mode only gets unlocked if you buy their expensive custom thermostat... but it's fun to play with if you're aware of its limitations. Namely, in that mode, your system will probably run 100% of the time for hours and hours whenever the temperature gets much above 90F. Latent-heat removal is nice, but when it's REALLY hot outside, sometimes you have to sacrifice a bit of latent-heat removal for brute-force sensible-heat removal. You're also at extreme risk of having the coils eventually ice up after a few hours of running like this... the coil gets so cold, and the air is so humid, eventually the condensate starts to freeze in place on the coils before it even has TIME to bead up and drip off into the pan.

I believe Thermostats like Ecobee and Nest support the 80%-vs-100% mode on systems that are capable of it, but AFAIK, only Carrier's proprietary thermostats properly use "Super-Dehumidify" mode.

Aside from being able to achieve extreme dehumidification, the reduced-speed modes serve another purpose: they allow you to extend your running time on days when it's humid, but not particularly hot. This is where Carrier's "Super Dehumidify" mode REALLY shines... on a cold February day when it's 62F outside, rainy, the AC hasn't cycled on for more than a few minutes at a time all day (because it's technically 72 inside), and the humidity is becoming oppressive, 20 minutes per hour in S-D mode can work miracles for dehumidifying your house.

Just to add an additional disclaimer, there's another factor to consider when attempting extreme dehumidification using central AC alone. Modern evaporator coils (the part that cools the air as it passes through it) have significantly denser cooling fins than old units did, which combines with the surface tension of water to leave the coil a lot "wetter" than they used to be on older systems. If your system is programmed for maximum energy-efficiency & keeps the blower running for 90 seconds after turning off the compressor (the EnergyStar-mandated default), half the water that was pulled out of the air by the coils is going to get evaporated right back into the house. To prevent it, search your air conditioner's service manual. If you're lucky, there will be jumper settings on the circuit board (or in the installer menu, if you're using a proprietary communicating-type thermostat) to delay turning on the blower fan until a few seconds AFTER the compressor starts and the coils become cold, and to eliminate (or at least, reduce to something like 5-10 seconds) the delay before the the blower turns off after shutting off the compressor.

The phenomenon of having the coil freeze during extended run cycles is well known, and is the reason why heat pumps have an explicit 'defrost' mode. Grossly oversimplifying, a heat pump heats a house by air-conditioning the outside and dumping the waste heat inside. Running a heat pump (in heating mode) for hours and hours at a time when it's already cold & humid outside is basically the same situation as running an air conditioner at low blower speed with cold, humid air for hours and hours at a time. The difference is, with heat pumps, it's expected to happen, and they're designed to mitigate it. Most home air conditioners AREN'T designed to deal with running a supercold evaporator with slow, humid air for hours and hours at a time, so they'll ice up if you aren't careful. My advice: if you're making your own thermostat and decide to run the blower at reduced speed, have it kick the speed up from 60% to 80% after 15-20 minutes, and have it kick the speed up to 100% after 40-60 minutes. The algorithm can definitely be improved upon, but this simple logic will generally be good enough to prevent coil-freezing if the system is working properly.

Also, note that contrary to marketing propaganda, a dual-stage compressor will NOT necessarily give you better EXTREME-humidity-removal than running a conventional single-stage compressor with the blower at reduced speed. As noted, latent heat removal uses a LOT of energy... if your goal is 72F @ 32% or less, running the compressor at low-speed might not actually get (or keep) the coil cold enough to SUSTAIN that kind of intense humidity-removal. If your system won't allow you to reduce the blower speed enough when the compressor is running at low speed to get the coil below 40F, you might very well find yourself having to run the compressor at regular speed and just cycle off the compressor and blower the same way you would with a single-stage system to achieve extreme dehumidification.

In any case, achieving extreme dehumidification with a central AC alone almost always requires the use of a homebrew thermostat and controller (Arduino, RasPi, ESP8266/ESP32, etc) and a lot of tweaking, because it's basically the HVAC equivalent of overclocking a PC. It works... but you're officially on your own, as far as the manufacturer is concerned. And your electric bill WILL reflect your extreme dehumidification habit. Operating your AC at 80% normal blower speed will probably increase your summer electric bill by at least 25-50% compared to what it would be if you endured the higher humidity. On the other hand, it's REALLY nice to enjoy a 72F 28% anti-sauna when it's 96F and 95% outside. ;-)

Also... to answer the original question, some manufacturers DO have add-on modules to dehumidify without cooling. For example, Lennox has a module that sits between the evaporator coil and air duct & can be switched in to use the waste heat from the evaporator coils warm the air after cooling it when operating in "dehumidification" mode. In a climate where your house would often be colder than 70 degrees even if you turned the AC off and left the windows closed, it might be worthwhile. In a climate like South Florida, it's probably unnecessary, and simply reducing the blower speed to 40-60% normal and running for 15-20 minutes per hour would probably be good enough to dehumidify without significantly overcooling the house.

Update: there's another potential snag... condensation on or inside the ducts and/or register grilles. The problem is that when you're relying exclusively on cooling to dehumidity, the dew point of the air in your house will NEVER be lower than the temperature of the coldest air coming off the evaporator coil. So... you're pumping extra-cold air into your ducts, which (depending upon how much insulation you have) will eventually become as cold as the air flowing through them (though if you have good insulation and no leaks, might take a few hours of continuous running to happen). Meanwhile, the air elsewhere in your house has steadily become warmer and picked up moisture from people breathing, coming in when you open a door, etc, so its dew point will be warmer than the air coming from the coil.

This is a major reason why COMMERCIAL HVAC units "reheat" the air by a few degrees before sending it into the ductwork... to ensure that the air in the ducts is "always" at least a degree or two warmer than the dew point of the air surrounding the ducts. You don't necessarily have to heat the air a LOT... even a degree or two of reheat might be enough to banish 99.8% of sweating ductwork if your average duty cycle is below 60% (ie, if an average cycle consists of 20-30 minutes of running, followed by 20-30 minutes of resting).

The main thing is, if you end up with sweating ducts, try to avoid allowing the temperature to swing by more than a degree or two between cycles. The greater the swing, the longer the subsequent cooling cycle will be. The longer a cooling cycle runs, the colder the surface of the duct will eventually become, and the greater the likelihood that it will become cold enough for condensation to form.

If only the register grilles "sweat", you MIGHT be able to mitigate the problem by replacing metal grilles with plastic ones (ideally, with a hydrophilic coating)... the plastic won't get quite as cold, the coating will cause any condensate that forms to form a molecule-thick film spread over the surface instead of beading up, and hopefully that thin film of water will evaporate away quickly once the cycle ends and before the next one begins.

To some extent, ALL ducts carrying non-reheated air are going to sweat at least a tiny bit occasionally (say, for a few hours when recooling the house after something like a hurricane prevents the system from running for a few days). Good insulation can prevent most of it, but it's still a good idea to try and locate the ductwork someplace where rare drips of condensate can evaporate quickly without damage. Put another way, try to have something BESIDES drywall directly below the ducts (like Hardiebacker). It's a case where "a difference in quantity becomes a difference in kind".

Put another way, don't expose yourself to single points of failure. Seal and insulate your ducts well... but don't delude yourself into thinking it's going to completely eliminate the condensation problem. It won't. There's just no getting around the reality that ambient air whose dew point is higher than the temperature of cold air in the ducts WILL result in condensation someplace where warmer humid air comes into contact with a colder surface.

You can mitigate it actively, by warming the air slightly before blowing it into the ducts and/or dehumidifying it independently of the air conditioner, or if the amount of condensation is very minimal, you might be able to mitigate it adequately by just ensuring that when it happens, it'll drip someplace where it won't cause harm.

Also,  take this as a cautionary tale if you're fantasizing about redoing your home's ductwork using exposed spiral duct to give it a loftlike ambiance. Spiral ductwork requires flawless sealing, excellent insulation,  plastic grilles, AND some form of reheat or additional dehumidification to completely eliminate visible  sweating... especially if those ducts are ANYWHERE near a door leading outside, a bathroom, and/or a kitchen... or if the interior isn't well-sealed and insulated from humid outdoor air.


Lead Test Positive? Now What? House built in 1949. Decided to remove half of a closet that was framed out into the bedroom (and taking up too much space) and when the framing was removed it exposed a few layers of paint and what appears to be the original layer of drywall/plaster/sheetrock (not sure exactly what it is, the hospital green in the picture). Got a lead test from Lowe's and while none of it is red that original green surface turned dark pink in areas. Is this definitely lead? What do I do now? So far we haven't sanded this area or otherwise disturbed it since removing the framing. However, now that I see that green, I'm pretty sure I must have been exposed while drilling holes in other parts of the house, or sanded patched and painted other smaller areas. Trying not to freak out. Any advice on what to do with this now that we know would be greatly appreciated!

For a house built in 1949 it would be amazing if original paint did not contain lead. The color has nothing to do with it. Most lead containing paint was white ; in the atmospheric  sulfur of an urban environment it would slightly yellow. Zinc and calcium were also used and offset the yellowing . Then when titanium came along , bright white paint with high hiding power was possible without lead.  A little lead was used but I forget the advantage it gave the paints. I would say if you don't eat the paint there is no problem , assuming you are not going to grind on the paint for hours and make fine dust. I painted the exterior of my house with a lead containing paint in 1968 and have not died yet.


Is this plaster over gypsum wallboard? In a Philadelphia-area house built in the early 1950s: I cut out a piece of wall to fit an old work box.  The piece I removed is shown below.  The original walls were finished in plaster, but I can't understand what I'm seeing here: There's half an inch of plaster on top of what appears to be a modern-style half-inch paper-faced gypsum panel!  Is this consistent with known plaster wall construction from that era?  If so, what is it called, what does it consist of, and how was it done?

(Exposed, painted face of wall on left:)

(The house has gone through various renovations over the years, so there are places where walls are just modern sheetrock.  But I can't imagine somebody putting up gypsum and then plastering over it!)

What you see there is a hybrid gypsum/plaster from the 1950s. It represents a transitional stage between traditional wood lath and plaster to modern drywall techniques. You'll probably find metal lath at inside corners and metal corner bead at outside corners and door openings. The gypsum panels are 18 or 24" high.

I owned a home with exactly that in it for 17 years and consider it to be the best wall treatment ever devised due to its strength and durability, along with the fact that it can be easily cut to, say, add an electrical outlet.


How to build a wall under duct work So I'm trying to finish my basement.  I have a conundrum as to how to build a wall under a soffit.  Here's my situation - I have an HVAC duct that is running really close to the wall - like maybe 1.5" or less.  I need to build a soffit around the duct AND build a wall under that soffit.  Is it possible to attach a wall to the soffit? I was thinking that I could build a U, with a PT 2x4 on the back side (if it fits) and attach it to the joist at the top and to the wall at the bottom.  I could then use regular 2x4 to build the rest of the U and attach the wall to the soffit. That doesn't seem like it'd be super stable  How would I insulate behind the duct given that I might have less than 1.5" to work with?

Update: I measured on the open end and it looks like I have about 1", maybe 1 1/4" max, between the foundation wall and the duct.

Update 2: Not sure what pictures you wanted added, so here's 2. The first is the end of the duct line, the second is looking back at the duct running all the way back to the unit.

Possible options I see:

1 - Take the duct down temporarily or as needed.

2 - Build a flat wall in front of the duct, top plate to the left of the gas line & that wire, to then do closets under the duct.

3 - Do an open four or square four (not this pointy 4) without the top right back leg & of course a double long bottom leg.

I favor #3 & it should be plenty stable enough, good place for the TV or a bar. Use Fir studs instead of the cheap pine studs, much stiffer. You can also double the top plate for the left turn & double the front for the up-turn around the duct. I see the far wall that will also help. And, just insulate the face of the duct behind your wall.

If building-down the ceiling then I'd do that first, so you know if you're coming down enough & if anything has to be moved, but it doesn't really matter if you can measure.


How do I wire this kitchen fluorescent ceiling fixture? I bought a new Home Depot kitchen ceiling fixture but am not sure of the proper way to install it.  The fixture itself has black, white, and bare copper.  The ceiling wiring is red and gray(white?).

What goes to where?

The red wire is likely a switched hot -- That is, a wire connected to the hot side of the circuit, but interrupted by the switch.  You should test this with a non-contact voltage tester, and have a friend flip the switch.  If the wire is indeed a switched hot, the tester should ring in on one switch position. -- It should be wired to the black on the fixture.

That would make the gray/white wire neutral.   -- It should be wired to the white on the fixture.

The ground wire (bare copper) may need to be screwed directly to the junction box.

Keep in mind that a ground wire is (hopefully) never used to transport current.  That is, it only exists as an alternate path if something goes wrong.  If your light fixture is ceiling mounted, and there is no way anyone can touch it, then it's not entirely necessary.  In fact, if there is no ground to the junction box, it was installed at a time when grounds weren't required in such locations.  While not optimal, it is likely safe just to omit the ground altogether.

EDIT: In reply to comments.  If the originally wiring was to code at the time, then replacing the fixture does not require rewiring. (i.e. You can replace what was there as is).

But, you may need to run a ground for the ballast to work properly.  If the junction box is metal, it MAY be grounded via conduit or a ground wire screwed directly to the box.  If an electric meter reads 120v from red to the box itself, then the box is grounded.  (Be careful, or GET AN ELECTRICIAN to check, and run the ground for you.)


Hallway light with multiple switches doesn't always work I have a light in the entry hallway that has four switches that can turn it on. Lately if I turn this light off using the upstairs switch, none of the others can turn it back on until I turn the upstairs one on again.

It does not happen when turning it on, or from any of the other switches.

Does this mean the upstairs switch should be replaced, or the other three?

I'd start by turning off the power at the breaker, and verifying it's off using a non-contact voltage tester.  Remove the cover plate, and remove the screws holding the switch in place.  Gently pull the switch out of the box, being careful not to pull too hard.  Verify that all the wires are firmly attached, and are not broken or damaged.

If nothing looks amiss, replace the switch.  If this does not solve the problem, follow the same procedure with each of the other switches.  There should be two 3-way switches, and two 4-way switches.  Be sure to replace switches with an appropriate replacement.  If all the switches have been replaced, and the problem persists. Contact a local licensed Electrician.


How can I fix the issues I'm having with large double gates? I have a privacy fence in my backyard that includes a large double gate. It was built maybe a year and half ago. The whole span is about a 11' 4" opening. The gates to meet in the middle with double hinges on each gate and a rod at the bottom of both going in the ground. There is one latch in the center (a small one I might add). The latch and rods do not adequately keep the gates from rocking during high winds (Oklahoma winds!!!) so both the bars rocked loose in the ground allowing the gates to swing even more and not stay latched. As mowing season began, I figured out I could not even open the gates because they had sagged so badly and buried the bottoms into the ground.

I had the bottoms trimmed off and the hinges raised everything back up too. This lead to a wider gap between the gates and now the latch really doesn't reach across well. Tried again yesterday and moved the latch in as much as was left to move. Unfortunately the gates are wide open this morning after a storm last night.

How should this be repaired?

Click for full size image

The first thing I would do is cross-brace the gate. You need to do something like this:

If you Google search for "wood gate diagonal bracing" you'll get lot's of images showing the proper way to do this.


How to install reclaimed stone pathway without plastic edging? I;m installing a  3' wide path made out of reclaimed stones. Is there a proper way to install this path without using plastic edging on the sides of the path? These paths have been done before and all over the city of Cleveland. The finished product looks very similar to a cobblestone path

You can dig down an inch or so and "plant" the stones without using a container as such. If you dig a 3 foot wide area and place the stone pieces in the excavated area, the pristine earth/grass surrounding them will pretty much hold them in place.
Your success will vary based on the soil type and amount of water involved, etc. Sandy soil that gets a lot of rain, for example may not work as well as other conditions.


LED lights delayed when turned on I had my house built last year and after moving in noticed that in our living room (6 led downlights) when we turn our lights on 5 turns on at once and the 6th one will be delayed ranging from 1/2 sec to 5 sec to turn on... the electrican came to have a looked last year but said its cause the 6th bulb was installed later so it takes longer to turn on (which frankly we thought was BS as we had downlights previously in our old house and always turned on at same time).

The switch controls the living room lights (6 leds), the alfresco (4 LED) and the external flood light, no dimmers.

Anyways it really wasn't big an issue, had someone else had a quick look but he couldn't really tell, so left it, a year pass and not longer is the light still playing up, also the dining and kitchen lights are being funny... taking longer then normal to turn on.

We had our 1year maintenance and totally forgot about the lights! I am concerned it might be the actual wiring behind that's the issue, can anyone advise if this is normal behaviour for LED downlights or if they reckon its more serious than that and we should call the builder back to have a look?

Thanks in advance, hopefully this makes sense to those reading!

It's not the wiring.  It's the LEDs themselves.

LEDs have a characteristic delay when turning them on which may be more than you're used to from a lifetime of incandescent bulbs.

Swap the LEDs from one position to another, and the problem should move with the bulb.  Replace the LED with the equivalent incandescent (temporarily) and it should go away entirely.

Unfortunately, home LEDs are still relatively new and they suffer from both this characteristic delay --- which may vary from brand to brand -- and manufacturing variation --- where bulbs from the same manufacturer may vary, even within the same batch.

The only way to avoid these issues is to closely watch online and professional reviews (from trusted sources) to pick the better-performing brands; return any product to the store that is an "outlier" in the same room -- or, wait another few years for LEDs to mature (I'm serious) and just live with it for now.


Is it safe to store an extension cord outside under a carport? I have a 25 foot 16/3 extension cord.  The instructions say it should not be stored outside, but it doesn't say why.  I would like to store it out in the open under my carport.  It would not get hit with rain or much direct sun, but it would be exposed to wind.  It would not be left plugged in (although incidentally I don't understand why this also isn't allowed).

Is this safe, and what is the actual reason for preferring to store it inside?

Water, extreme temperature fluctuations (+-30°), and direct sun exposure can all damage the insulation of the cord. If you live where wind driven sand/snow is a thing, you might have problems. The contacts can be corroded if exposed to water, and very moist air (especially if it's moist salty air).

Inspect the cord for brittle, cracked, torn, or damaged insulation before each use. Inspect the contacts for corrosion before each use.


Nail instead of drilling pilot hole in wood Can I use a nail to make pilot hole in wood? Two 3/4 inch boards together then drywall. Thank you

The idea of a true pilot hole is to physically remove the material from the wood so the body (aka 'minor diameter') of the screw doesn't have to expand the wood to make room for itself, possibly causing the wood to split.

Click for larger image. Image courtesy of Home Stratosphere

Using a nail to form a 'pilot hole' is simply going to expand, not remove, the same material around the nail. While driving the nail in then waiting and finally removing it might allow some time for the wood to uniformly compress around the distortion and stresses, it never removes the material so you are still in danger of splitting the wood; particularly in dry wood.

If you need a pilot hole that still needs to provide purchase for the threads to tighten upon then drill a hole the size of the minor diameter. If the pilot hole is intended so that the screw pass through unimpeded then drill a hole at the size of the shank (aka 'major diameter') or slightly larger for clearance.


How can I add an ice maker water line? I have the following setup with a T with a valve to an above sink water filter.

The line from the T has one steel braided 3/8” line and goes up to the sink as 3/8”. The other is a thin PVC line with a valve that goes to the above sink water filter. I would like to add an Ice Maker 1/4” steel braided line to the mix. I prefer to take advantage of the valve that is used by the above sink water filter. I have been trying to find a 1/4” T, but all ends are male. I can’t find a T with one end female and the other male or a 1/4” coupler. I don’t want to add another supply line nor mess with copper tubing.
What recommendations can you give me?

Other Parts I currently have:

The easiest way to achieve what you are looking for with what you already have is to:

Shut off the water at the angle stop shown in your first photo
(confirm that the valve is closed by opening the cold on you sink)
Cut the copper tubing in half (the tubing between the angle stop and
the second valve)
Install the valve tee shown in your second photo (this will reconnect the cut tube)
Test (by opening the angle valve)
Slowly tighten the compression fittings if they are leaking

Here's a video on how to install compression fittings: Youtube video.


Is Armored (BX) cable considered to be protected from damage? I want to install an outlet on my unfinished basement wall. I am assuming that it would fall under NFPA 70 300.4 as needing protection from physical damage.
Is Armored (BX) cable considered to be protected from physical damage in this case?

Based on NEC 320.12(1), I'd say no.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials
Article 320 Armored Cable: Type AC
320.12 Uses Not Permitted. Type AC cable shall not be used as follows:
(1) Where subject to physical damage

There have been proposals to change it to say "Where subject to excessive physical damage", and other such wording to show that it offers better protection than say NM cable. So far, however, all such proposals have been shot down.


What is this metal roof trim that was torn loose by a storm? Heard a banging, couldn’t put my finger on it while I was up in the attic but I found out where in the house it was. Walked outside and found the culprit.

It’s the metal trim, perhaps this is the fascia? I’m not too roomy savvy but I’ll be able to take a better look at it in a day or two.
So what is it? Just some aluminum trip piece that attaches to the end trusses?

Technically it is the rake board, or the metal that covers the rake boards. It supposed to be held in place by pop rivets and/or nails and tucked under the metal drip edge that is part of the roof system. It could be reattached, but it surely dented, if not cracked where the repeated bending has occurred from all the flapping in the wind it has done. It should be replaced for best results, but could be set back in place until it can get repaired properly


Is it necessary or recommended to kerf baseboard? I've been told that baseboard, unless done so already by the sawmill, should be kerfed before installation to prevent warping in the future.  Is that really necessary or just a good thing to do?

I plan to buy plain (meaning no beveling or grooving) maple 1x6 to use for baseboard.  I asked the lumber yard and they said they are not pre-kerfed.

The main reason the recess is in the back of all moldings is to "thin" the wood, reducing the amount of continuous rings in the wood that helps control cupping.

There is a fringe benefit of that relief in the back of trim, it helps get past some irregularities in the wall. I have had more problems with that relief cut than benefits when it come to base. The tapered edge of drywall at the floor coincides the relief cut in the back of the base, which then requires a shim to keep the base in plane with the wall. Not a terrible thing, but an extra step to do.

It is my belief that the relief cut or kerf as you have referred to it as, now a days has more purpose to go over irregularities, than to control cupping, since houses have better climate control than the old homes did when the technique was created. The trim is machined from wood that is kiln dried, which also helps in the reduction of wood movement.

In a nutshell, I would not hesitate to use 1X6 off the shelf, instead of 1X6 base. I used both 1X6 base and off the shelf 1X6 poplar for the base in my home. You cannot tell one from the other. I stained it too, looks pretty good if I do say so myself. The rest of the trim in my home is poplar to. FWIW.

The maple you speak of can take stain decently too if the wood is treated first with a wood conditioner.


How do I wire receptacles for a washer and dryer on a new circuit? I need to add a new circuit that will have only 2 receptacles, one for a washer and another one for a dryer. This will be a 20 amp circuit. Can someone please tell me how to wire the two outlets together? I have experience with changing outlets but never added an outlet from another one and want to make sure I wire everything correctly before calling over an inspector to check the work.

Wire from the panel to the closest outlet.  Use Ratchet Freak's recommendation of using a GFCI since this has a potential to become a wet location.  Put the GFCI at the first outlet location and wire the line/feed side of the outlet to the wire running from the panel.  Add a second wire that will chain the second outlet to this outlet.  On the GFCI, the second wire will attach to the load side of the outlet and the other end will wire to a normal outlet.

For a 20 amp circuit, you will be using at minimum 12 gauge wire.  Make sure the wires are anchored to the studs outside the box and they are running through the middle of the studs to protect from screws/nails.  If you have to notch a stud to run the wires, make sure you add a nail plate over the notch.


Extension cord can't plug into christmas light string? I am setting up christmas lights. I have two shrubs which are about 6 feet apart, and I want to put an LED string set on each. I bought a two-prong outdoor extension cord to run between the shrubs.

The prongs from the extension cord do not fit into the end of the LED string. However the LED prongs can plug into the other side of the extension cord without issue.

Do you need some sort of converter to allow the prongs of the extension cord to go into the xmas light string set?

Thanks

This is the extension cord prong end:

This is the LED string light end:

The packaging of the extension cord says it is polarized.

Thanks for the pictures! It looks like the problem is that your extension cord is polarized, but your Christmas lights aren't. The best solution is to replace the electrical receptacle at the end of the first set of lights with a polarized one. They sell replacement receptacles for Christmas lights.

You could use a ground plug adapter to do this, but you would need to trim the polarized neutral plug to fit in a non-polarized hole which is a bad idea. It will be fine for this season, but once you take your lights down for the season you'll forget that you have a modified adapter that could be reused for something else and hurt somebody.


How can I temporarily support a PVC pipe in use as a delivery mechanism? I would like to use a PVC pipe to send candy to kids 10 feet from the door on Halloween. I'd put candy in the high end and it would come out the low end into the kid's candy bag. I could use help in figuring out a way to mount such a pipe without having the benefit of a railing to attach it to. I will need a free-standing solution.
I am going to need something to hold up the high end of the pipe about 5 to 6 feet and something to hold up the low end of the pipe about 3 feet. Whatever I end up with needs to be sturdy enough to not get easily knocked over, and cheap and easy to setup or quick to build. I plan to give out those Palmers chocolate eyeballs so they roll down the tube easily. I might even mount a giant eyeball on the low end of the tube so the chocolate eyeballs pop out of the pupil!
Any suggestions for what to mount the pipe on would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking a 10 foot pipe with a 4-inch diameter.

I'd use whatever stool or chair you have around at the low end, and a stepladder or similar at the high end, possibly just leaning against the exterior wall outside the door. Cable ties, string, or duct tape would secure the pipe well. A little weight on low rungs could add stability.
I love this idea and may borrow it myself (or some Rube Goldbergian variation). A sign on the street promising "no contact" and that "we wear gloves" might add a level of comfort. Of course, I'll still don my Pennywise costume (with balloons) and emerge from the shadows alongside for a sweet/sour thrill on the turnaround.
By the way, a 4" pipe is huge and heavy (unless you use the thin-wall sewer pipe, but it's still larger than you need). 3" is probably just fine, and for your specific candy 2" would probably do. You might even get away with 1-1/2" thin-wall central vacuum pipe.


My pool drainage seems to break the law of physics I apologise if this is answered somewhere else, but I can't find the answer.
I have an above-ground pool, with an overflow pipe coming out of it about 4" from the top.  This overflow pipe then goes down under the ground, under my garage and comes back up under the house where it has to rise enough to get into a drainage pit.  The height it has to rise to is about 12" below the height at which the pipe exits the pool.
But the water won't rise that high! In fact, it will only rise to about 2 feet lower than it needs to.  I don't understand this.  Shouldn't the water rise to the same level as the pipe exits the pool?  The size of the pipe that goes down from the pool is much smaller than the size of the pipe that comes up from the ground inside the house.  Could this be the reason?
Can anyone point me to somewhere that explains this?  I'm totally stumped - it feels like the laws of physics are breaking.  Could it be that just installing a smaller pipe will allow the water to rise higher?
thanks for any help
Here's a diagram (maybe, need OP to confirm it matches what they intended).  The red line would be the pipe and the blue line inside the red pipe denotes the water level.

It is sort of a siphon and you have a problem common to siphons , air lock. Air pockets interrupt water flow. You can pump water into the pipe to push out the air but unless you have a constant flow of water ,air will get in again. The U bends you refer to in comments are likely the main problem. With no air ,the water levels at each end of the pipe will be exactly the same.


EPDM Rubber Bond Roof in multple pieces I've just had a garage roof laid with EPDM rubber bond. I expected this to come in multiple pieces, but the roofer has used 4 pieces. 2 long strips on either side, then 2 half-length strips to fill-in the centre remaining gap.

I have serious concerns about the longevity of the roof as a result. The roofer claims his supplier gave it to him like that telling him it was "easier" despite him telling me that it was ordered as a single piece. He claims this is "glued" using the same methods the factory/supplier uses to stick the whole sheets together in the first place, so is effectively identical.

Should I be concerned about the long-term longevity of the roof? What would be your advise to tackle this problem with the roofer? No money has been exchanged yet.

It's perfectly possible to have a lap seam in an EPDM rubber roof.

The important thing is that the lap seam is horizontal, with the upper piece overlapping on top of the lower piece.

The strength in a rubber roof is in

the fact that no one has destroyed the rubber chemically by attempting a repair with random cheap roof-patch materials from the building supply, which invariably contain tar or other chemicals incompatible with rubber roofs
how well it's glued down to the substrate
how well the seams are glued.

All of these can be well done, to answer your question.  (But the first one is up to you.)


Ok to use solid furnace wire to connect this 24v transformer to my nest? I just want to make sure I wired this up correctly using the correct wire. It works!

https://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-trg1640-ac-transformer-16-5-vac-45-va-auto-resetting-grounding-prong-and-terminal

Yes, that size is enough. Solid wire is harder to bend then stranded but this isn't an issue unless you move or use the wire often.


Exterior Fire-rated Wall Assembly? I am renovating a 100+ year-old house that sits less than 5 feet from the property line on two sides.  The renovation involves re-sheathing and residing the whole house.  In order to bring it up to code, I have to provide a 1-hour fire-rated wall on those two sides of the house that are close to the property line.

One local inspector told me that my wall would have to be (from inside to outside) like this:
1) 5/8" Type X drywall
2) Existing studs
3) 1/2" OSB
4) 5/8" Type X drywall
5) Housewrap
6) Siding

Another local inspector told me that #3 and #4 are reversed.  So according to him, my wall would have to be (from inside to outside) like this:
1) 5/8" Type X drywall
2) Existing studs
3) 5/8" Type X drywall
4) 1/2" OSB
5) Housewrap
6) Siding

I've never put drywall on the outside of a house before.  Can someone help me out by explaining or pointing me at a picture of the proper assembly?  Also, what fasteners do I use on the outside?  For some reason I think that the plaster in the drywall will corrode galvanized nails.

Thanks.

Ready for muddy water?

If you go by solely by code,  2012 IRC Table R302.1(1) specs out a 1 hour TESTED  wall assembly with fire from both sides.  As an individual component,  IBC Specs out a 40 min rating per layer of 5/8" Type X so to have a 1 hour untested assembly you would need two layers EACH SIDE.  The only way to get the 1 hour rating is to use a ASTM or UL tested assembly.  There are hundreds of these, but not readily available to the general public.  BUT THE ABOVE INFORMATION IS VOID.  Read on.

As much as you might like to think you are dealing with code, you are not; you are dealing with a person, the building offical.  It does not matter what the code says, it is what your local building official says.  Enter the political game played by industry professionals with the code officials on projects to minimize the impact the code official have on their projects and clients pocket books.

There are hundreds of rated wall systems out there you SHOULD use but, here's the rub,  most building officials on homes seems to ignore that fact and will simply tell you what they will require you to have without using a spec sheet from a tested assembly.

Next is a bigger issue at hand here which is the IRC is littered with holes which require to be filled in with conversations between you and the building official.

In this case, the code says you need to both use a tested 1 hour assembly and you need to directly attach the OSB to the studs  (IRC Table R602.3(3) ).  This is confirmed by conflicting direction from two separate code officials.   Structurally, the OSB needs to go directly against the stud, but for fire rating, you need rated assembly that specs and/or allows OSB under the gypsum;  I can't remember seeing an assembly like that leaving you in a pickle.  And if you take it further, it (the IRC) does not clearly address what to do if a floor penetrates the rated partition or what to do at the ceiling.  Would they require you to rate the floor to 1 hour as well?  Or balloon frame and ledger the floor the rated assembly?  Put gypsum through the trusses up to the under side of the roof sheathing?  All of these things are a bit unheard of for the home because building officials do not go by the letter of the law as much as they let on.

Take a step back to your question though,

  is it OSB against the stud or gypsum?

In the end it is what ever your building official on your projects says it is.

So how do you deal with this?  I would not bring to light the conflicting information otherwise you will be left with dealing with it, not them.  They could make you address both the fire rating and the structural issues with not attaching the OSB directly.

What I would do is reason with them.  Sometimes one can have a frank discussion about a matter built on the backround of code without referencing the code directly.  I would reason the OSB is structural and would not preform its function properly if mounted on top of the gypsum.  I would also play on the common misconception the 5/8" Type X gypsum is rated for 1 hour by the code as an isolated component (Even though it is not.  Ref IBC Table 722.2.1.4(2) )  Here's the next catch, to have a successful conversation usually requires a keen knowledge of the code, buildings in general, a highly developed skill with people, and a special set of skills in dealing with building officials.  True building professionals know how to do this.

If you cannot engage in this conversation correctly, you could shoot yourself in the foot by bringing to light the conflicting information; then the official might require you to do more than they initially said because of the conflict you brought up that they feel is valid and needs addressed.

So what IS the answer?  A few possible answers (No Recommendation Here)

Do what the building official says without question (Sometimes actually the best policy)
Question for understanding from the code official; read the code with them and discuss the findings, then ask what they will  require after the discussion is done (sometimes takes days and multiple meetings and may be problematic if you not done correctly).
Re-side your house without consulting you local building jurisdiction.  Know the caveats of doing so and proceed accordingly.  (FYI You should still be prudent in your efforts meaning you can still sheath it in OSB to strengthen the home and you can put gypsum on the outside and/or inside to provide fire protection)


Inside of Washing Machine smells horrible. How to fix? I bought a used Washing Machine (Miele W828) that looked to be in perfect condition.

It actually works perfectly.  However, the inside of the Machine smells horrible, like mildew.  This smell gets really strong right after a wash.

I've read online about doing a Hot Cycle wash to clean the inside of a Washing Machine, and did 2 of those at 95 C / 200 F and it only made the smell stronger.

I also read that it could be caused by a clogged drain pump that can be accessed from the front of the machine (by opening a front lid and unscrewing and draining the water), but it had only 2 coins in there.  Although the long screw top had some black stuff on it that I tried to clean, the inside of it or the area I pulled it from was not particularly bad.

I then read that you can run a Hot Cycle with White Vinegar or Bleach in the dispenser drawer to fix smelly washing machines, so I did one Hot Cycle with about 1.5 L of White Vinegar and it made no difference, and then I did one Hot Cycle with about 2 L of Bleach and although I could smell the Bleach afterwards, the strong mildew smell was still there.

I moved the machine from where it's tucked into the wall to see if any smells were coming from behind it, and I couldn't detect any smells behind the machine.  But as soon as I open the front door of the Washing Machine, the smell hits you like a ton of bricks.  The smell also hits you when you open the Dispenser Drawer, so I removed the Dispenser Drawer (which is clean) and the inside was very nasty.

Here is a pic of the inside of the Dispenser Drawer (with the Drawer removed), of the big tube going down from it, and of the drum:

Dispenser Drawer:

Enlarge

Big Tube Going Down:

Enlarge

Drum:

Enlarge

(The liquid you see in the Drum is bleach that I added there directly for another Hot Cycle wash I'm currently doing.)

Based on those pics, the inside of this machine is completely nasty despite the outside of the machine and drum looking perfectly fine and the machine itself working fine.

Is this fixable or is this machine doomed?  If it's the former, then how can I fix this?

First, let me say, you are far from the first person to have smell problems with washers, especially front-loaded ones. This has been the topic of many conversations resulting from home inspections and with concerned customers. I have had followup consults with factory reps, appliance repair specialists and the like.

The most common problem seems to be with the rubber sealing rings at the door. Water sits in the folds, mold grows in the folds and is untouched by the "washer cleaners" that are currently on the market. Wonder why they are so popular? some folks have been able to manually clean these areas with bleach and many rags. Others have had to have it replaced then keep it clean before the mold takes hold again.

Any closed reservoir can harbor mold and usually does. If you cannot access them to clean the mold out, that part usually has to be replaced. The other problem is if small amounts of water sit in the bottom of the unit and don't get expelled. this is easily treated with flushing cycles with bleach or cleaners.

Before you completely give up on the unit, see a Bosch dealer with a good service reputation. Several models from several manufacturers have been recalled or service bulletins issued for exactly the problems you are having.


Any two-prong plug on any two-prong plug cable? I've got a bunch of lamps from Europe that I want to use where we've just moved in North America. I cut off and replaced the plug on one lamp with a North American one and it works fine. I'll be doing the others. But I have an air purifier that works completely fine at 110/220V and 50/60Hz. It only uses a two prong plug. Is that likely just as easily replaceable/modifiable as lamp cables or are there gauges of wire to consider, amounts of power, different ratings of two-prong plugs, etc etc?

First, I really don't advocate splicing new plugs onto old wires unless you really know what you're doing. Many of these devices likely have UL listings, which help ensure their safety in a residential context, but which also depend on the system as a whole, unmodified.

If the device says 110-240VAC and 50/60Hz, then you can simply use a plug converter, no need to splice.


How to treat exterior wood that has been exposed for long periods? I have some door frames and other wooden features which were originally painted but the paint has long-since all flaked off. The wood is not rotten and seems fundamentally sound but it is extremely dry and in my experience trying to paint wood in this condition has not gone well.

What is the best way to prepare and treat this sort of exposed exterior woodwork?

A good sealing primer is all that's really needed unless you have checking. In that case, a good wood filler will do. An oil-based primer might provide a more durable base and fill any fine cracks better.


Limit switch is good but no heat I am getting a 4 blink indicator saying my limit switch is bad. I tested the switch and it is good. What else could it be?

The limit open error code, simply means that the limit circuit is open. This could be an open limit switch (of which there could be more than one), a loose/disconnected wire, a bad control board, or some other break in the circuit.

Most systems apply 24V to the limit circuit, and if they don't detect ~24V on the other end they throw the error.

Locate the schematic, then trace the circuit to find the break. Without knowing the make and model; or having the schematic, there's not much more help I can provide.


Window treatment that allows for a projection to be visible? As a creative project, I'm trying to project some lines or text onto a window.  That is, I have a large window that I still want to see out of, but I want to use an LCD projector from the inside to project onto the window.  Someone looking at the window would be able to see through it, but could also read the time or temperature or something projected onto it.

Of course, most of the light from the projector is going to go through the window, but some of it is bouncing back in as glare.  I'm going to experiment to see if I can take advantage of this effect, but it might be tricky.

Is there any other sort of window treatment I can apply that might make this work better?  Perhaps some sort of stick on window darkening material that might reflect a bit more light from the inside?  Or, some sort of stick-on plastic that would react to UV?  (The LCD projectors tend to kick out quite a bit of UV, so maybe the visible light plus UV would be fine.  Color doesn't matter... this is going to be in monochrome.)

Any other alternatives you can think of to get a similar effect?  Open to oddball and creative ideas!  Thanks.

Depending on how much optical interference you can tolerate, you can either use a translucent film like they use for this product: Window Wonderland or if you are only displaying monochromatic images you can use a partially reflective mirror coating like EdmundOpticals.com.
Here's one that looks useful: Abrisa Technologies.


GX23-2 Lampholder removing wires without cutting An existing lamp holder has cracked and will not hold a lamp. How can I remove the existing broken lamp holder without cutting wires? The pictures are of one I can cannibalize.

You probably can't. I would just cut them back an inch or two on both the bad one and the "donor", then use splices on the wires.


Suggestions for a timer for a shop heater I have a shop heater - 20A, 240V, 4000W - and need to put a timer in the circuit. Any suggestions?

Not possible. Trendy pushbutton timers require neutral, and you don't have it. Wait.  You're old-school, and you want to use an Intermatic wind-up timer where the energy comes from YOU? Oh yes, that'll work just fine!

No  . . .
Yes

In fact, that's exactly what I did with a water heater.   Now, the timer might be rated for the amperage.  But I didn't take any chances; I used a 240V relay.

Mind you, I used a relay intended for an air conditioning compressor, and that is not Code legal, because that relay was not application-listed for a water heater.  But if you can find a relay that is listed for your purpose, or a general-purpose type like a RiB, then you're all set.

There are also the Aube relays with transformers built-in, which provide 24V pilot voltage, so you can do the wiring from relay to timer with low-voltage thermostat wire.

And if you're thinking "24V! That means I could use any 24V thermostat, even the Nest!" you're almost right.  Depending on the model, Aube's transformer may be too little to power the Nest, but you could use separate transformer + relay, or a relay-transformer that's a little bigger.  I've even seen transformer+relays that mount on junction box lids.


A small air compressor for cleaning? I'm looking for a small air compressor for a small air compressor that I can use instead of a compressed air can for dusting my home electronics. From looking at websites like Amazon or Home Depot, most air compressors either fall into the 12V ones used for inflating car tires, or big, 10+ litre air compressors used for air-powered tools. I wonder if there are any small-form air compressors on the market that can store about a litre of air, deliver 100+ psi and work with some normal blowgun attachments?

There are very small tank type units, but around 1gal is the smallest that seems to be available.

Here is one that is really small and quite reasonable, and from a reputable company.

You can gauge the size by the relationship of the typical pressure switch to the rest of the unit.

http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-1-Horsepower-1-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0000AQK78


Can I put two 240V 10 Amp outlets on a 240V 20 Amp circuit? I presently have a single outlet NEMA 6-20 outlet on a 20 Amp 240 V circuit.  Can I install two NEMA 6-15 outlets on the same circuit instead?

Duplex Nema 6-15 outlets are rare, but Leviton does make one.  On their site in the description is the word "Canadian".  Are these legal in the United States?

Yes, you can put multiple properly rated receptacles on a circuit, regardless if it is 120V, 240V, or 120/240V.

I don't know why the word Canadian is in that description, but a duplex 6-15R is perfectly fine in the US.

A 20A circuit with multiple receptacle outlets can use either 15 or 20 amp receptacles.


What grit sandpaper should I use between coats of polyurethane? I'm planning on applying polyurethane to a pine bench I've finished staining. I decided on foam brushes for application, but I wasn't sure what grit sandpaper I should use between coats. Is 400 good enough? Or should I use 600? Or both?

Also, if anyone has any recommendations for application other than foam brushes, I wouldn't mind hearing them.

Read the instructions on the can.  See what the manufacturer recommends.

Sandpaper is fairly useless on polyurethane because the heat generated by the friction causes the polyurethane to melt and block up the grit.  And the finer the grit, the faster it gets blocked up.

I have been using polyurethane for more than 30 years.  Here is my routine to achieve a fine finish:

Note: If you do not have a dust-free environment, you should try to apply the polyurethane outside on a calm day.  Dust particles falling on your work are a major problem.  Stay out of the sun, though.

Sand work piece surface to 220.
Vacuum work piece surface.
Using a soft cloth, rub a very light coat of mineral spirits into the work.  This will give the polyurethane a head start penetrating and “gripping” the wood and will retard the drying time slightly.  This will also allow the grain to appear more vividly so you will get some idea of the finished product.
Wipe down the work piece with a tack cloth and immediately begin applying polyurethane.
Apply polyurethane with a fine brush, working across the grain first, then with the grain.  Work quickly, overlapping and moving the polyurethane along the piece.  Apply only a thin coat.  Do not attempt to re-brush the polyurethane once it has “leveled.”  (When the brush strokes disappear.)
After drying, sand first coat lightly with 220 paper on a sanding block.
Wipe off polyurethane dust with a soft cloth, then wipe with a tack cloth, and begin applying second coat.
I do not use sandpaper on the second coat.  I use medium steel wool on the second coat, and fine steel wool on the third coat.
After a few weeks, you can apply a light coat of carnauba wax using very fine steel wool or just a soft cloth.

Note:  Never work directly from the polyurethane can.  Pour the polyurethane you need into a clean plastic cup, then work from the cup.  Discard any unused polyurethane and the cup.  Never pour unused polyurethane back into the can.  If you do, you will just be adding more dust particles to your next finishing job.


How do I turn off the water flow to my toilet? I have a leaky tank problem with my upstairs toilet. can I turn the water supply to the toilet? If so, how do I turn off the toilet water supply?

In almost all cases there should be a shutoff valve behind the toilet, just follow the visible pipe that comes out the bottom of the toilet tank. It will either be a globe valve that has a handle you need to turn many times to open/close, or a ball valve with a handle that you turn 1/4 turn to turn on/off.

If there is no shutoff valve, you would need to turn off the supply to your entire house.  It would also be a good time to install a dedicated shutoff for the toilet.


How to access the ceiling over an indoor swimming pool How is the ceiling of an indoor swimming pool accessed, if repairs
 need to be done to anything up there?

This is an indoor pool at a K-12 public school district. I need to take this speaker down and repair it. It is located over an irregular sloping floor between the shallow and deep end.

The ceiling lights can be replaced by the school district maintenance staff, because they are over the pool deck around the sides, so there is room to drive a vertical ceiling lift up to the side of the pool and get up there. However they don't have a way to access the middle of the ceiling out over the water.

,

This pool is drained every August for cleaning before the next school year begins in September, so there is a time of the year when the floor would be exposed without water.

This pool has a shallow end and a deep end, with a ramp that slopes
 down from the shallow to the deep, with a diving board off to the
 side, and so the slope itself is uneven from left to right across the
 slope.

Apparently some sort of platform is needed to level the slope so that
 a ladder or scaffolding could be utilized on top of it.

Also some sort of bracing is needed to keep the platform from sliding
 down the slope. The only thing I can think of, would be a long pole
 from the structure to the wall of the deep end.

A one-time-use wooden frame structure could be built, but it would be
 better if the platform could be adjusted and reused in different
 locations across the uneven pool floor.

Is there any sort of product or device that already exists, that is
 capable of doing this job?

Might want to check with your local equipment rental companies as they may have, or know where to direct you to get a transportable Cherry Picker. These machines are not as easily transported as a vertical scissor lift, but can be stationed on the side of the pool, or even in the pool and could reach the area that needs to be repaired. Most cherry picker's have stabilizing legs that can be deployed to help aid with uneven ground if placing inside the pool is needed.

Otherwise, Scaffolding can be installed in the pool with water or not. Make sure that the equipment is approved to be installed in water by the manufacturer, and the rental company, before taking action. You'll also want to consult with professionals what they suggest be done to make sure they are installed correctly, and securely. If putting them up in the water, you'll want to double check that they have been cleaned before installation.


Bulging in the wall and ceiling I purchased a new construction home just a month ago that has a year of warranty. I have started noticing bulges in the wall and ceiling. Is it poor construction? There are several like these.

How hard or easy is it to fix?
Is it concerning?

Please let me know your thoughts.

This is nothing but shoddy workmanship on a brand new home.
Contact the builder and/or warranty company immediately and ask when they'll be out to fix it.
Document. Document. Document! Do everything in writing - email at a minimum, certified letters if they get snippy with you. If they call to discuss it, take notes, then summarize the phone conversation immediately in an email message back to them to put it in writing. Something like:

Dear Builder's Representative,
Thank you for your phone call of date at time. Per our discussion, here are the actions you will be taking and the date they are to be completed:
list here
and here are the actions that you expect me to take:
list here
If I've missed anything, please let me know immediately so I can update my records.
Thank you,
Nikhil

Is this concerning? Yes, it's concerning that they built the house so poorly. Is this likely to collapse on you at any moment, no, I wouldn't think so, but who knows where else shoddy workmanship is lurking.
Make sure you keep a very close eye on your house for any other signs of damage and notify them immediately.


Patio Roofing Question - Transparent corrugated pvc covering I have recently built a free-standing patio covering that backs up to the back of our house.  It is approx 24 x 14.  I'm having trouble deciding what to put as a covering.

First I thought the Ondura roofing (http://ondura.com/?gclid=CNSyxcGctc0CFUZrfgodkKMO7w) but bad reviews have scared me away.

Then I thought some translucent corrugated roofing.  But not sure whether it will provide sufficient shade.  The point of this patio is to get us out of the summer heat!  Does anyone have experience with this type of roofing?  I know it comes in different "shades" but will it provide good shade, or am I better off going with a solid metal/pvc roofing?

Also, will the corrugated pvc type covering last?  I don't want to be replacing the roof after a few years.

It will be (or had better be) polycarbonate or acrylic, not PVC, or it will die in the sun.

If you find it too clear to begin with, greenhouse suppliers have "paint on shade" and/or shadecloth, both come in white and in colors.

If all you want is shade, shadecloth might be a better choice than roofing, but of course it does not block rain. Shadecloth suspended above the glazing would likely do a slight better job of blocking heat than either paint or shadecloth laid right on the roofing.

Metal will be simply broiling hot.


Should I be concerned about future mold growth from using mouldy paint? A few months back, I screwed up. I had a bucket of paint left over after my place was professionally repainted a few years back and decided to touch the place up by painting over some stains on the wall. I used a roller to paint approximately 3 m2 altogether.
Now there were several brown-black stains on the surface of the paint and it did smell funny (by which I mean slightly rancid), but it did not enter my mind that mould could grow in a bucket of paint - I just assumed the parts of the paint had separated and so I stirred the paint. The paint worked seemingly just fine after this and there is no discoloration.
After painting the wall (which is a concrete wall), it smelled a bit of what I now realise was mould, for about 30 minutes to an hour. After that however, there is no smell and no visible hint of mould on the wall.
I only now realised, after reading up, that indeed mould can grow in paint and that I accidentally painted with mouldy paint...
Should I still be worried about mould growing underneath or so? The apartment is usually dry as the desert and I have had no problems, there is no smell or discoloration whatsoever. Still...

If the wall isn't subjected to regular moisture there's no reason to think that the mold will keep growing. Mold spores are everywhere already. Most of them are harmless.
To deal with the stains, use a stain-blocking primer. Then paint again.