Why do we screw doors into the doorframe rather than the studs? I just finished fixing my door to my garage, which would not latch because the door had sagged.  The final remedy was to drill the holes in the hinges deeper and put 2" long screws into the frame to pull the door level.

Why do we rely on little tiny 1/2" screws that strip at the lightest insult?  Why don't we just start by attaching the door right into the frame and forget about all of this saggy door stuff?

Properly installed, at least some of the screws should go thru frame and into studs. The short screws are mostly there to keep everything aligned while a pre-hung door-and-frame set is assembled and shipped. Once it has been hung and shimmed properly, those screws can be replaced with better ones... but aren't always.


How To Wire Humidistat and Humidifier - Honeywell I am looking for advice on how to wire my new humidistat with my furance and humidifier. First, here are the components I'm working with:

Furnace: Carrier WeatherMaker Infinity (Model 58MVP100 14120)
Humidifier: Honeywell HE265B1005
Humidistat: HoneywellH6062

Background: Old humidistat (Honeywell H1008A) quit working so ordered this new one. The humidifier is a Bypass, with both humidistat and humidifier mounted on the Return side. Humidifier is hooked into COLD water line.
What I'd Like: Since humidifier is on Return side and hooked into cold, I'd want the humidifier to kick on when humidity reads low and there is a call for heat. (Feel free to let me know if you feel differently).
Where I am at in the setup: I do have the humidistat hooked up to constant 24V and the Outdoor Sensor hooked up and tested.
What I need help with:
My furnace does have a 24V HUM terminal which kicks on during call for heat, so I know I can use that, I just need to know how to hook it in. On my humidistat I have two U terminals for the humidifier, and I need to know how to hook those up to the furnace and humidifier solenoid. I will post some pictures. I know the bottom U humidistat terminal gets wired to one of the humidifier solenoid wires. The top U terminal is what I need help with....and then I need help with what wire to hook into the second humidifier solenoid wire. One note, my furnace does have the HUM 24V terminal, as well as a HUMR (HUM relay) terminal.

It goes "HUM -> U, other U->solenoid terminal, other solenoid terminal->C"
In order to get your humidifier to work, you need to create a closed circuit through the humidifier solenoid to bring 24VAC to it.  Since we know the HUM 24V terminal is a 24VAC source from the wiring diagram you posted with the C terminal as its corresponding return, we can pull 24VAC from that and feed it to one U terminal on the humidistat.  The other U terminal, then, connects down to one of the humidifier's solenoid connections; finally, the remaining terminal on the humidifier solenoid gets connected to the C wire on your furnace.  The result is a closed circuit that only is energized when your furnace permits humidification and the humidistat calls for water, just as you wish it to work.


Need an alternate way to install hand-spray bidet on my toilet - can I Tee off the 3/8th input valve? I bought some hand-spray bidet kits to add to some toilets.  I've done this before on standard toilets, and the installation went smoothly - just remove the input pipe from the port on the underside of the toilet tank, insert the provided T-valve, and connect the hand-spray pipe to the T-valve.

But in my new house, I have some toilets that are non-standard (Porcelanosa NK One) and which do not give access to the input port on the back of the tank.  The toilets are fixed to the ground and flush with the wall, and so there is no good access to where the input pipe connects.  I can squeeze my hand back there and kind of feel it, but certainly could not unscrew anything and install new plumbing there.

As a result, I am stuck with trying to Tee off the other end of the input pipe - the part that comes out of the wall.  The pipe size is different than that on the bottom of the toilet port - the wall valve seems to be a 3/8" compression valve, compared to the 7/8" valve at the input port of the toilet tank.  So I cannot use the T-valve that came with the bidet kit.

My question is this - can I just buy an off-the-shelf 3/8" T-valve, insert it between the existing shut-off valve and the input pipe that runs up to the toilet, and connect the hand-sprayer to that T-valve?

Is there any reason such a T-valve will be unhappy having a hand-spray attachment on it?  Will the pressure be significantly different at the end of the hand-spray attachment?  It won't have the on-off valve that the provided T-valve does, but I never use that anyways (and if I did need to turn off pressure to the hand-spray - say, to remove the end and de-scale it - I could just turn off pressure to the entire toilet).

You should be able to do what you propose because the adapter/valve that came with the unit does not appear to have any sort of pressure regulator built into it, meaning it appears to be designed for normal household pressure (btw this is not the case with all hand-held sprayer units).

Because the consequences of failure could be catastrophic (e.g. flooded house) I would hook it up but closely monitor it for a while to confirm no leakage, hose swelling, etc.

Oh, and turn it off when you go on vacation...


How should I reduce humidity in my storage shed? I'm based in Scotland and have a 40 foot by 10 foot tongue and groove shed that is used to store clothes for my business. It sits slightly above ground on a wooden base. I have added a metal roof on top of the existing wooden one. Inside I have put in a false floor and I've also screwed plywood over joists on ceiling.
On the  walls all around I’ve firstly left an air gap of 2 inches before fitting in foam insulation sheets then stapled VC moisture barrier silver backed foil to joists  before screwing plywood onto the joists and lastly used sealant to seal every little gap.
The problem is that in winter it is freezing and summer stifling hot
And after a few years now I’m starting to smell a stale dampness and worried that it will transmit to my clothes stock.
So my question is should I heat or dehumidify put in air vents or all

You have to decide whether the relative humidity of your environment is adequately dry for your storage needs. If not, you have to reduce moisture. We can't really say what's right for you.
It sounds like you have the space sealed up fairly well. For that reason I'd consider just using some bulk desiccant. It won't cost electricity and you won't have to worry about emptying buckets or pluming a drain line. If the building isn't very well sealed or you open doors frequently this could get expensive.
The best bet might be a window air conditioner. This would cool and dry the interior while keeping the generated heat outside.
Otherwise you could run a dehumidifier, but that creates heat and you'll probably want to plumb the drain line out somewhere. You wouldn't want to dehumidify and ventilate because you'd never catch up. This means the heat stays inside until it is conducted out through the building envelope.
I don't see ventilation being a great option. By reducing the interior temperature you may actually increase the relative humidity, and you introduce more mold spores than you'd have otherwise.


Best solution for file folders of custom wooden desk drawer? A few months ago, I bought a wooden desk.  I want to put file folders in one of the drawers.  I bought this file folder frame set (the kind you build) for file folders from Office Depot, but they don't work.  I bought a box of 500 file folders at Office Depot, and 20 feet away, they had these file folder frames.  The file folders are too small to even hang on the file folder frame set.

I've seen some different models that seem more durable than the frame set you construct.  They are merely clips that fit onto the side of your drawer.  I'd like to go that approach, if it'll work.  If you've done this before or can steer me in the right direction given my dimensions below, I'd greatly appreciate it.

I just haven't found any good pictures online with an actual drawer.  They just have sketches.  What have you done that has worked well for hanging file folders?  What would you recommend for me given the dimensions below?

Here is what I found so far:

http://www.hafele.com/us/products/hanging-file-rail-systems.asp

http://www.oodlesofpartsplus.com/hanging_plastic_file_rail_design.htm

Dimensions of desk drawer:

width (outside to outside): 14 1/4"

width (inside of drawer): 13 1/4"

height (inside of drawer): 10 3/4"

depth (inside of drawer): 18 1/2"

Office Depot file folder dimensions:

11 3/4" (inside dimension of where folder sits on rail)

12 7/16" (outside dimension of where folder sits on rail)

I did my own with a simple steel rod, the kind you can find in different lenghts and diameters in a any hardwarestore.

I cutted the rods to match my drawer width, drilled 2 holes on both sides of my drawer (without going all the way through), inserted the rods and voilà: a simple file drawer.


How to connect one set of wire (+ ground wire) to outlet So I've been going through the house and have been updating our outlets and it usually involved connecting two sets of wires and a ground wire. Today however, I ran into a set up that consisted of one set of wires (one black wire, one white wire and one ground wire) and am unsure how to proceed.

So here is an image I took of all of the wires that need to be connected to an outlet:

This was the original outlet, where the wires were inserted into the socket that I have circled in white. The white wire was connected to the left side, black wire was connected to the right side, and the copper wire was connected to the screw on the bottom.

And this is the outlet I am trying to update it with:

As of now, I have tried:

black wire to top brass terminal, white wire to top silver terminal
black wire to top brass terminal, white wire to bottom silver terminal
black wire to bottom brass terminal, white wire to bottom silver terminal
black wire to bottom brass terminal, white wire to top silver terminal

And of course, I had the copper wire connected to the grounding terminal on the bottom with each of these set ups, but none of these set ups seem to work.

Can anyone point out where I am making an error?

Thanks!

Are the tabs on the outlet intact? I am thinking the outlet prior may have a broken tab so the feed is not making it to this outlet. Many times only 1/2 of a switched outlet is switched we snap the tab between the top and bottom screw on the hot side take the switch to 1 and always hot to the other. In the case with 2 cables or 2 blacks and 2 whites in the box 1 is the hot the other feeds the next device , if that tab is broken on either side the next outlet will not get both the hot and neutral.


Securing furniture to prevent tipping due to earthquakes and babies I'm a new resident in the Bay Area, and with small children in the house, I'm looking at our furniture with some unease.

What's the best and easiest way to secure and fasten tall bookshelves in case of natural disasters or baby-related mischief, in order to prevent tipping?

We rent, so we'd prefer non-screw based fasteners, but safety is first and most important. And are these 3M™ Dual Lock™ fasteners strong enough anyway to do the job?

The velcro type product you posted looks like it has adhesive on both sides.  The velcro itself would probably be plenty strong if the straps are large enough, but I suspect that adhesive on the wall would not work out well.  It could fail too easily by simply ripping the top layer of paint off.  Or, when you do want to move you are going to rip a big chunk of paint (or more) off the wall when you try and remove it.

A screw into a stud is going to provide the most secure hold.  I usually use 2 1/2" #8 screws for this purpose. You can either get metal brackets or the purpose-made earthquake straps at the hardware store.  If the bookcase is made of particleboard and/or it's heavy, then I would consider two brackets/straps to hold it since the connection into the top of the bookcase will be much weaker than the connection into the wall.

A few holes from #8 screws will leave holes considered "normal wear and tear" in California.  If you (or your landlord) are really particular, it will be easy to patch when you are moving out.


Washing machine drain hose very high I recently moved into this place and this is the setup of the washing machine and its drain hose.

The clothes come out of the wash still pretty wet, particularly on the bottom. My girl thinks the washing machine is broken and needs to be replaced. I think, even with a new washer, this kind of setup, where the drain hose goes above our head into the drain pipe, means the water is running back into the washer and a new machine won't help.
My main questions regarding this are as such:

Can a washer drain hose go up just over 6 feet vertical?
The hose seems too long. Would shortening it help or solve the problem?
If this setup just won't work, what kind of additions/modifications do we need.

Please note this is a rental unit, so we cannot make any major changes to the piping or building. This is in the basement also.

Would be good to see the specific model.  But a check valve may be the simplest solution.
From a random Maytag manual:

For standpipe installation above 48"(121.2 cm), install a check valve to prevent water from flowing back into washer. Available from local hardware store.


Bathroom exhaust fan wiring issue, power to light then switch? I am installing a new exhaust fan into my bathroom.  I plan to use a 2 function rocker switch to operate the fan and light independently. The power passes through the light first, and then to the switch. Can anyone provide a diagram to help me complete the circuit from the light to the switch and to the exhaust fan?  Thanks!

The diagrams below show how to wire the circuit. For simplicity I have not drawn in the electrical grounding conductors (green or bare Cu wires).

Note that the 2011 NEC introduced a requirement to provide a grounded conductor at the switch location (see this answer and this outside link for more details). You can avoid this requirement if you install the circuit before January 1, 2020 but there are good reasons to follow the new code if it's not unduly burdensome. You may upgrade the switches in the future with a smart switch that requires a grounded wire. Or you may need to branch off this box in the future to run additional switched or unswitched circuits.

For a pre-2011 NEC 3-wire install the switch loop can be run using Type NM-B 14/3 with ground. Re-identify the white conductor in the switch loop cable as ungrounded (on both ends) and connect to the ungrounded conductor from the branch circuit. Then connect the black and red wires as indicated in the diagram.

For a 2011 NEC 4-wire install the switch loop could be run using Type NM-B 14/2/2 with ground. Connect the grounded (neutral) wire from the branch circuit to the white wire in the switch loop. Connect the ungrounded wire from the branch circuit to the white wire with red stripes. Connect the black and red wires as indicated in the diagram. As I write this, it is hard to find 14/2/2 cable and often more economical to run a pair of 14/3 cables. In each case we are running an grounded (neutral) wire inside the cable that has the ungrounded wires for each switch loop. This is required by code to avoid inductive heating.

Prior to 2011 NEC

After 2011 NEC


How can I attach new connections to this old galvanized pipe? My water heater is hard-plumbed with galvanized pipe.  It is at least 20 years old and is leaking:

I want to use modern flexible hose for the new water heater, but I don't know the best way to change the existing setup. I could simply take off the unions and try to thread adapters to the pipe stubs, but I'm concerned that the existing threads will have corroded to the point where it won't make a good connection.

How should I proceed?

Keep the unions.

If (as seems unlikely, given the over-all condition, despite one differing opinion) you can't get the pipe out of the old union-half, go purchase two new half-unions (or complete unions if you can't source the correct half-unions alone - take the half-union you remove with you to the store to match it) and connect your flex-hose to the half-union. Otherwise just unscrew the pipe from the half-union and screw in the new flex hose, or any adapters you need to connect to the flex-hose.


Safe repair for electric shower casing The previous tenant at the place I’m currently living deliberately damaged some fixings and fittings, including breaking the side panel off the electric shower.
Is there a way to cover up this side panel, to make it safe?
Fortunately, the open side faces away from where water flows, so water is unlikely to get in directly. I realise water slashes, steam and condensation would get in.
The shower has stopped working (manual says it’s likely a solenoid or circuit board failure).
I’d like to know if the broken case could be repaired and made safe somehow - even a temporary fix - or whether the shower should be replaced.
I am not going to attempt to fix the shower’s electrical system or install a new shower myself. I will get an electrician to do that.
I have agreed to pay for the repair, and for the live-in landlady to pay me back. So I’d prefer the former, as it’d be a lot cheaper and I don’t intend to be living here long-term.
Thanks.
EDIT: I’m in the UK. I’m aware of what tenancy law here is, and whose responsibility are repairs, so I only require advice about whether there’s a safe way to repair that side panel, or whether the unit should be replaced.
UPDATE: The shower is being replaced with a new shower by an electrician.

What jurisdiction is this located in?
In most places in the US it is illegal for a non-licensed person to do electrical work in a rental.  Technically even buying a part for this device and replacing it would be a violation and absolutely repairing the circuit board in it would be a repair and thus illegal if you tried doing it.
And if your idea is you are going to call an electrician to come in and repair this and start telling him or her how to do their job they are going to turn and leave.  Many probably wouldn't touch this one in any case as it is due to the missing tiling.
Since your landlady is paying for it you have no vested interest in the amount of money it would cost.  The people who would care about that are the ones who are intending to make some money on the side by getting a quote then doing the work themselves (illegal in the US) and then passing the quote to the landlord.
The landlord has huge liability here for a tenant to get involved in this kind of repair.  What happens if you contract with an electrician to do this, then 6 months from now a future tenant gets electrocuted in the shower and they go back to this electrician and he claims that he never touched it?
In the US the landlord is legally required to provide a safe rental with everything working.  Your landlord has already broken the law by allowing you to rent this place that a "prior tenant broke this"  Because of that you can legally walk away from the lease (she has already broken it)


Possible to Use Different Neutral for Separate Runs of Same Circuit I am in the process of wiring a new bathroom circuit that includes normal lighting in addition to a fan/light combo.  There is a three-way switch that will control the light in the bath fan (as well as the other lights.)

Another switch controls the fan.  The three-way switch (lighting) is serviced by a 12/3 run, and the outlets and fan switch are serviced by a 12/2 run, both on the same circuit (notice the single "source power".)

The light part of the fan/light combo is served by the hot on the 3-way switch.  The fan is served by the hot from the "outlet" run switched by the fan switch.  The neutral for both is from the "lighting" run.  Notice the neutral from the "3-way run" connected to the "light" and on to the light/fan.

Boiled down: is it allowed to use a single neutral on the 12/3 for two "hots" that are served from separate runs of the same circuit?  Possibly similar to this answer.

Picture of the circuit:

While the neutral to the fan is on the same circuit as the other devices, the original drawing suggested that it is not in the same raceway or cable as the hot wires to the fan. This is not allowed under the code:

  NEC 300.3 (B) - All conductors of the same circuit ... shall be contained within the same raceway ... [or] cable ...

UPDATE: The revised drawing does indicate that the neutral wire is in the same cable as the hot wire(s). Consequently, the neutral is on the same circuit and in the same cable, as allowed under the code. While there are two hot wires, they are actually the same circuit and merely one hot, using two wires and switched separately for fan and light, a very common pattern.


Removing Home Alarm System (UK) I recently moved into a new home and it has a home alarm system installed. The system appears to be inactive, there's a keypad on the wall downstairs and a larger control unit upstairs - neither of them have lights on their display or make any sounds. There's also a number of motion sensors on various walls throughout the house (see example image) and an alarm siren on the front of the house.

The cabling to the motion sensors appear to be CAT 5 or 6.

I want to remove all these components as I'm investing in a wireless system, plus it will tidy the house a little!

I recently had an electrician upgrade my fuse box and I asked him to have a quick look, he confirmed that the power isn't coming from the fuse box, and that it's probably wired into one of the wall sockets? He looked at the upstairs control unit and could see mains power going to it, but he hadn't time to trace it's origin.

I have little or no knowledge of electric or power, bearing that in mind I have a few questions;

can I safely remove all these components myself or should I pay a professional?
can I simply cut / snip the leads connected to the motion sensors or is there a dangerous current?

Any advice appreciated.

I've done something similar recently. Our system was wired into the same fuse at the consumer unit as the upstairs lighting circuit (despite the control box being downstairs). It was powered via a fused spur located in the under stairs cupboard which is adjacent to the control panel in the hallway. I can't say if this is typical but it might give you some idea where to look.

The problem was that the control panel and the alarm box on the outside of the house both have backup batteries, and if you tamper with the system the alarm will go off, or if you leave the power off too long the alarm will go off. To avoid this, I put the ladder up to the alarm box on the front of the house and disconnected the battery. I had someone on standby to key in the code in case it triggered the alarm. Then I cut the power to the control panel by removing the fuse in the cupboard and disconnected that battery too. This is what I understood from the alarm company to be the proper procedure. Then I started cutting wires to the sensors and the wire that goes to the siren.

Possibly, in your case, the system has been disabled for so long that the batteries are flat anyway, but you still need to confirm that you've properly removed mains power from the control panel. If you really can't find a switch or fuse for it, you could switch off power to the whole house, open up the control panel, remove the mains wires and cap them with a choc block. Safer than working with a wire that connects to who-knows-where and could become live at any time.


How do I tent a ceiling? My fiancé and I are trying to tent our bedroom ceiling. We bought enough fabric from the fashion district downtown and got set up and ready to do it... and nothing was working or looking right.

As of now we have fabric lining the outside of our ceiling hanging down that is long enough to reach the center of the room.

The look is kind of a fancy Moroccan look we are going for. Not TOO drapey but not so tight that there are no creases.

Looking for a mixture of these two looks:

the effect can be achieved by getting something like a hula hoop (cut it open) or a piece of small gauge metal rod bent in to a circle. then sew a pocket along the edge of the fabric, like a pair of pants or hood with a draw string. thread the rod or hula hoop through, then do something to close the loop. with the hula hoop, i would recommend a dowel that fits snugly and a screw. for the rod, i recommend a small piece of tubing with hose clamps. affix the ring to the ceiling in the middle of the room.

temporarily affix planks of wood (something like 1x2 pine or thinner) to the walls all around the room, against the ceiling. stretch the fabric to the walls, and use a second piece of wood to sandwich the fabric, clamping it between the pieces of wood. when you have the look you like, screw the pieces of wood together. don't trim the excess yet!

remove the wood/fabric/wood sandwich from the walls, turn the wood 270 degrees, and affix it to the ceiling. to be able to do this, you can strategically cut holes in the fabric that will be invisible when you're done because of the natural creases you have created. through these holes you can screw the sandwich to the ceiling.

once you've decided that you like the look/positioning/whatever, you can cut off the excess.


Ramifications of adding a second HVAC air return (in parallel)? Years and years ago a HVAC tech told me that one of the best things to do for a HVAC system was to add a second air return.  He stated, basically, that doubling the size of the HVAC filter area would make the system quieter and put less stress on the HVAC components.

That was years ago, so...

Q:  In a standard new, stick built home[1] what are the ramifications of adding a second air return, that doubles the filter area, to the HVAC system?

Notes:

Generally this is easy enough to do for the average home owner and costs < $50 for a “20 X 20 Steel Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter” (see Amazon).

[1] Any reputable builder who’s won something like:  Professional Builder magazine--Builder of the Year or National Association of Home Builders (NAHB)--National Housing Quality Award

Edit 2018-08-27 11:11, Clarifications in reply to comments and answers:

Since there are multiple possible HVAC build outs where a homeowner can achieve the same thing, I was trying to not use any one specific build out.  As it seems my question wasn't clear enough, I'll add what the 'goal' is (which I should have done originally) and one specific build out for reference.  Hopefully that'll make a better understanding?  I'm going to also add a second, related question at the end of this edit.

Goal:

The HVAC change is to allow the homeowner to increase (double) the size of the return air filter area for less than $100.

Alternate Q wording:

Is doubling the size of the return air filter area, with no other changes, good or bad for a HVAC system?

A specific Example:

The existing HVAC return air filter is in standard(ish) drywall 'feed' ducting to the HVAC blower unit.  In many new homes this return is located in a central hallway, or other central area, of the house and there is plenty of 'blank' drywall in this drywall 'feed' ducting to install a second 'Return Air Filter Grille for 1" Filter' assembly [1].

Worst case, to see exactly what the drywall 'feed' ducting looks like, you'll need to goto a stick built model home, and stick your head through where the HVAC filter is.  Think of a rectangular return duct built with drywall...

Two other clarifications:

The existing air filter is in a wall, and there is no air filter at/on the HVAC system itself.
The new return is added to the existing return 'duct work,' so the only true change to the HVAC system is there is now twice the filter area.

[1] I don't know what the entirety of this component is called, it's the steel frame that holds the filter and has an airtight fitting into a wall.  A unit that holds a 20x20x1 filter is less than $50 at Home Depot, Lowe's, Amazon, etc.

Second, related Q (feel free to expand as desired!  ..might need a physicist, as this is definitely outside of my math skills..):

If the existing filter area is 20x20 (400 sq in.), and the builder recommends a MERV 8, now that the filter area is 2 times 20x20 (800 sq in.), can filters of MERV 11 or 13 be used without restricting the airflow below the original airflow?

It is true multiple points of return will increase the efficiency at a very low cost. Here is a common example from 1960's era tract homes. The single air return was normally in the hall way that lead to the bedrooms all rooms had heat registers. The kitchen and living rooms had large open areas that connected to the hall. When doing remodels we added a secondary return at the opposite end of the home usually 14x18" if memory serves, this helped to balance the draw through the home especially if the bed and bathroom doors were closed and reducing the draft and a minor reduction of noise at the return. Many homes only have 1 return, and many only have filters at the furnace. By installing filters at the original return and adding a second return with filters we reduced the pressure drop and kept the ducts clean compared to filtering at the furnace. We started doing this in the late 70's on remodels, it was not that expensive back then, even cheaper with flex ducting today. we started doing it to create a more modern look and eliminate drafts, the clean ducts became part of the resale pitch later. The largest win in my opinion is drawing multiple points keeps the smells in the kitchen...


Underground electrical box? The picture shows the spot in my front yard where an outlet used to be. There is a fourth wire not visible in the picture. We have since brought the  grade down about two feet and it no longer makes sense for us to have an outlet there as it would be in the middle of a patio-type space. The space will mostly likely have a gravel covering. The wires feed outdoor street lights which cannot be sacrificed.
I don't suppose I could make the junction underground - or can I?
Assuming I can't, what are some of the alternative solutions that are not a complete eyesore?

Update: for all the good answers I received, I cannot find a device for making a waterproof 4-way underground splice.

The other option is to put in a "hand-hole" so called - you've walked over them, some you have driven over (those ones cost more). They are (generally) like a box missing the bottom, with a removable top, and you set them over the conduits so the top is flush with the ground surface. You still need a waterproof splice method, but if you ever need to access it again it's a whole lot easier to find. The drive-over ones are usually made of concrete, the others are commonly plastic.
If you have "brought the grade down two feet" I'm wondering how much cover your conduit (or is that water pipe being used as conduit?) now has.


Why does a furnace need a fuse? Rural USA.  We just had a gas furnace installed.  The new furnace has a 1-gang junction box with a switch and a fuse.

It's the 21st century, here, I swear. And not England.

The furnace circuit is tip-top. It's punched down into a modern service panel with perfectly typical 15A breaker, and if it needed something special, that really wouldn't be a problem.

So why does the furnace also need a fuse?

You have an electrical connection to the Furnace - even if it is gas. Blower motors and control circuits require electricity; should you have a short - you will need the overload protection to prevent a fire that only a pyromaniac could enjoy.

The fuse is most likely of a lower amperage than your Circuit Breaker - it guarantees the safety of the furnace - regardless of your Circuit Breaker.

Think on this Why do Microwave Ovens have Fuses in them or other appliances such as TV's have fuses in them when we have these wonderful circuit breakers installed?

In Summary: The consuming unit may not trip the breaker, and if not a fire could easily erupt first before that breaker ever went into overload.


Is it acceptable to use a ground wire from one outlet to ground another? I live in a condo/apt. Two of my three prong electrical outlets were not showing up grounded when I plugged my surge protector in. I think from lightning or something. I need to plug computers and an air conditioner in, so we called the superintendent. In the end, he came over with some wire from Canadian Tire and attached a ground wire from the one good electrical outlet to the other one outlet. The wire he attached goes around the walls of the room like a cable wire to the other outlet.

Since he has done this, I keep noticing weird lighting on peoples faces when I watch T.V., but I can't put my finger on it.

Should he have fixed the problem using a ground wire from a good outlet, to fix the other two? Is it safe? Can it cause problems with my T.V. or other electrical equipment?

You have two things going on here:

The superintendent's repair may or may not be acceptable -- if he used a bare or green wire, or single conductor MC cable (unlikely), it can be considered OK in jurisdictions that have adopted the 2014 NEC (you'll have to check to see if the Canadians have caught up to this change).
Do you have a tube-type TV? If so, you have an objectionable current flowing on the superintendent's ground wire, which is causing magnetic field emission which is interfering with your TV.  I'd have the superintendent pull the outlet(s) that test as properly grounded and check for a "bootleg ground" jumper between neutral and ground; trying to use the "ground donation" provisions in 250.130(C) point 4 with a bootleg ground jumper present could cause this as stray currents circulate through the EGC and bonding network back to the main ground/neutral bond jumper.


Framing Advice - How to re-frame opening of non-load bearing wall Just looking for some general framing advice and if my plans moving forward make sense.

I have cut an opening into an existing wall, non-load bearing.  Originally there was a doorway, which I have opened up much further and left a knee-wall remaining.  When I originally cut the opening, I did not realize that this through-wall continued past the door opening behind my pantry.  This combined with the fact the top plate of that wall is not solid (see first photo), makes me think I need to do something to better solidify the remaining top plate.

My plan is to just run a 12' 2x6 across the very top, unifying the top plate on the left, the segmented top plates, the x2 vertical 2x4's I've added, and the 2 remaining original studs.  On the bottom, I plan to  trim the hanging studs down so I can get a 2x4 running horizontally across the opening.  Finally, I was planning on running another 12' 2x4 across the bottom, similar to the 2x6, to unify the x2 2x4's that were running above the original doorway and the 2x4 I'm adding to the bottom.

Plan B:

Enough people (online and people I know) have uttered the phrase "Get rid of it all" that I'm reconsidering leaving the hanging partition.  It has aesthetic benefits as well as greatly simplifies the drywall finishing, so if it can be done correctly I will do that instead.

If I do that, I understand I need to finish the remaining wall with some vertical 2x4's.  This a little tricky for a few different reasons:

It immediately intersects another wall I wish to leave intact (only juts out <2")
It's currently finished with drywall
The sill plate stops for the opening, so any studs I add will go from the top plate (or header) to the flooring below, not the base plate.

My new idea is to add x3 pieces of wood.  1 jack stud to go beneath the header to the floor, 1 cripple stud to support the top plate from the header, and then a 3rd which would be a jackstud to the floor to the top plate.  I would sandwich all 3 together with some construction adhesive and #9 construction screws.

Further progress:

To take some mystery out of it I cut away some more drywall to reveal the header does stop right there.  So I could either run a brand new header as suggested, or just cut everything out completely, right?  I realize now if I run a new header I won't have a jack stud under it, unless I add 3rd 2x4 in there.  Not the end of the world

I think you need to trim the 2x4 studs in the opening and build a header over the whole new opening, like the header that was over the original doorway, which will extend across your new opening.

Something like this:

(hopefully you're better at it than I am with Photoshop...)

Taking care to attach to existing studs on the right side and adding a jack stud (doubling the stud) at the end.

Like this:

I also think that you'll have to do some work on the "knee wall" (half-wall) to make sure it's sturdy enough, too. I assume it's just 2x4s toenailed into the bottom plate and maybe a double stud on the end (left over from the door frame)? It's hard to know for sure since we can't see what's left.


Identifying plaster type and how to best remove wallpaper and prepare for painting? We are renovating our new house at the moment in the UK which is circa 120 years old. One room has wallpaper on it which we want to remove and then prep and paint the wall.
Upon peeling some wallpaper away (which has binded rather firmly we notice a fairly course feeling plaster behind it.
What type of plaster is this, how can we best remove the wallpaper and how do we prep it for a smooth finish to paint?

Thanks

I would say that the best way to get a nice smooth surface to the entire wall (after removing the wallpaper, naturally) would be to plaster skim-coat the entire surface. This type of job requires some skill and a novice would benefit from practice. Another (less optimal) option would be to sand it as smooth as you can and touch up the roughest areas with plaster. Pros use bright lights at an oblique angle to highlight uneven areas, for situations where the flattest/smoothest surface is important. In this situation, either method calls for a complete prime coat prior to paint.
For removing the wallpaper, there are specialty tools and products to make it easier, e.g. scoring tools to perforate the paper, chemicals to help loosen the glue, sprayers to soak the paper, special scrapers, etc.
Since you obviously have internet access, I recommend that you watch some video tutorials for skim coat, plaster repair, and wallpaper removal. This will help you understand the options you have, the steps involved and the equipment and materials needed to do it right.
P.S.- the type of plaster that you have now is not terribly important...


Dropped item in furnace duct While trying to stop the ticking noise coning from my furnace ducts, I accidentally dropped a small piece of fire retardant foam (as you can see in the below photos) in one of the vertical furnace ducts in my basement. I can’t tell how far down it does with my fingers. Is this cause for concern (should I have someone remove it)?

There's a much easier solution

On your furnace you have mounted a Aprilaire MK 500. Inside that humidifier is a 9" x 9" opening. You simply need to remove the cover by by depressing the top or bottom tab, pull the 1/4" diameter water line out of the humidifier pad and then pull the humidifier pad out.

You should now be able to see inside the furnace with ease if the foam has fallen down you can run the fan to blow it up and tried to catch it if it didn't already move downstream. If it's not stuck down at the heat exchangers I wouldn't be overly concerned. If it was stuck down on the primary heat exchanger the worst thing you could expect to happen is it would smell a lot like burning foam beyond that it would be unlikely to sustain a flame but not out of the realm of possibility.

For the record bypass humidifiers are supposed to be installed on the return air but it's not the end of the world and this time it worked out to your benefit.


How to prepare cinder block wall for painting? I'd like to paint our cinder block wall but wanted to smooth the surface first. What are my options besides installing sheetrock on a wall?

To get a smooth surface you'll need to either use plasterboard (or sheetrock) or plaster (mud? in the US).

Both are DIY jobs, but you need a lot of practice to get a good finish with plaster.


How can I determine the style, design, and manufacturer of this tile? We are extending our kitchen and need to match the backsplash tiles that the previous owner put in. Can someone please give me some information about these tiles? Style/Design/Manufacturer?

This will require a lot of leg work, and some phone calls.

The only way to match it up is to go to the tile supply houses in the area and physically compare it to the tile that is in their inventory or samples to order by.
That should be your best shot at it.

While at the various supply houses, I don't mean the big box stores, but don't count them out either for this, there may be a knowledgeable person there that may tell you, "Oh yeah, this looks like such and such of tile, check the store in (fill in name or place here)"


Want to switch to tankless, but can I use my existing wiring? The tankless water heaters I am looking at require 8 AWG wire but the existing wiring is 12 AWG.

Can I do this without having to rerun new wire?

If a heater requires 8 AWG wire,  it's because it requires more electricity than a smaller wire is capable of safely delivering.  If you used the 12 AWG wire, first the 20A breaker would trip, but if that was upgraded (DO NOT) then the wire itself would turn into a heater and burn down the house.

What I'm saying here is that when too much electricity is run through a wire that is too small, it heats up.  Wire sizes are based on keeping a wire cool enough to not cause a fire when it's used.  Wire sizes are hard requirements, not suggestions.

The only option here is to run new wire or choose a smaller water heater.


Fixing a roof solar heater At the end of the season last September the highlighted joint in the roof solar heater was gushing a fair bit of water whenever the pump was turned on.

The joint is now still dry. Is it reasonable to add some kind of cement or sealer on the outside? The connection is quite firm, and there does not seem to be any cracks. The plastic still looks quite young; it's not chalky. And so I'm not sure how to open it to apply the sealer/cement on the inside, short of sawing off.

That alternative, sawing off the connection and reconnecting, is a much more difficult process, and one that, I'm guessing, would risk a lot of damage. Care to comment?

I doubt sealer from the outside will be any sort of long-term fix.  Either the joint has come apart or one of the pieces has split.  Either way you'll need to take it apart, replace any broken parts and reassemble the parts with proper solvent.


Scoring depth for cutting drywall new DIY’er here. I started on my first project to finish the walls of my garage(2 side walls). I hope I can pull this off(half way thru so yay).
Okay so here is my question:
I have got a 4x8 drywall that I need to cut to make 2 4x4 pieces and I took a utility knife and made a score, but when I try to snap it, it doesn’t. This is my first time cutting a drywall. So I am not sure if I am not applying enough pressure, or did not score it deep enough or something else. I watched so many youtube videos on this and no where on one talks about the depth of scoring, so I am assuming I am not doing something right(my position, drywall position, enough pressure etc.)
One last thing I can possible try is put the board face down, put one foot on one side and lift up the other side to snap it, can I do that or will I damage the drywall.

It also helps if you can put a straight edge such as a 2x4 under the drywall along the edge you want to break along. Scoring plus the straight else is usually sufficient to get a nice break without too much force.


Light contact tab melted into plastic housing Hi there

I’ve been given an old floor lamp that I’d like to use, but it only works with one light bulb that I’ve tried and I need it to work with another.

Investigating the floor lamp, I can see that the contact tab has been pushed down and melted into the plastic housing. I’ve tried releasing it but it’s glued fast. I’m thinking that the best way to overcome this is to solder in a new copper contact tab onto the original, but I’m interested in receiving some advice as to whether this is the best approach. Any advice welcome.

You don't solder something onto the center contact. Multiple reasons, one being it's already damaged form too much heat, another being the fact that a lamp socket should be UL rated, and that goes out the window when you modify it.

You buy a new lamp socket (at your local hardware store, or lacking one, online) and replace the whole socket. This will require some minor disassembly of the lamp, and you should carefully examine the cord to see if you should be replacing that as well due to old-age issues when replacing the socket.


Did I install my sleeve anchor correctly? I installed a M8 x 40mm anchor bolt, but I was not able to tighten it any more beyond the point in the photo.

My worry was the thread was damage when I tighten the nut. Basically now the nut still can turn but can't go in further.

May I know If I did it correctly?

This is for a ceiling fan, any hints will be appreciated.

I'm worried because I see the before and after in this utube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-EdSiYTIBU

It appears to my eye to be installed entirely correctly. To be sure, try to hang a fairly significant amount of weight (about 2x to 3x the weight of the ceiling fan) on that loop and see if the anchors hold. That multiple of the ceiling fan weight is your "safety factor". Use a cheap weight for that - maybe a plastic bucket filled with books. You'd much rather accidentally drop a bucket full of books while you're watching it than drop the expensive ceiling fan on some little kid's head while it's running at high speed.

This is a masonry ceiling? Those anchors are only suitable for masonry, never for drywall.


The wall outlets and lights in 2 of my rooms in my house are not working The wall outlets and lights in 2 of my rooms in my house are not working and all the breakers are switched on.... this happened after I kept turning my main breaker on and off to fix a light because the breakers wasn’t labeled for certain parts of the house...
How can I fix this???

To me this sounds like a bad connection, if both rooms share a common wall and the receptacles are on that same wall it is very likely you have a loose connection on the neutral white or hot black , most common is a backstab failure the push in connectors. Usually the last working receptacle or first non working one is normally the location of the failure, you need to figure out where the feed comes from and find where the problem starts, work from the location that is closest to the breaker panel. The last working device or first non working is normally the point of failure.


How do I fix a loose door frame? I'm attempting to repair an interior door that is sticking. I first thought the problem was with the door but I soon discovered that the door frame is loose at the base. (see image)

I guess I have two questions.

How does the loose door at the base cause the catching issue in the upper, opposite corner?
How do I go about repairing the loose framing?

I appreciate any advice that you can send my way.

The loose base is causing catching at the opposite corner because the entire door and frame is pivoting around the upper hinge and nearby framing that is presumably still attached firmly to the jack stud behind the frame.  As the bottom left part of the frame swings out, the upper right of the door is moving up to where it hits against the frame there.
Take a look at the loose part of the frame and see if the nails attaching it to the jack stud have pulled loose.  The hinge side of the door frame is often attached directly to the jack studs (no shims) so securing it may simply be a matter of driving in some brads or finish nails nearby.

If there were shims behind the frame, they may not be where they were originally; then you'd probably have to remove the door trim to get some more installed in the gap, then drive nails through the door frame, shims and studs.


need to make my table design less "tippy" Hello, all. I'm designing a dining room table, here mocked up real size in 2x4s and plywood, prior to final construction out of maple. the table top is 48" square, and the base has outer dimensions of 24" x 24".

we're putting int into a corner bench arrangement, so I want to avoid legs on the corners, so I started out with a pedestal design, but have moved now to a sort of trestle.

My challnge is he inherent tippiness of the design: lean down too hard on the edge, and the thing tips. (see bottom right image)
Constraints: Knee clearance means I can't push the trestle any wider.
maple vs pine with make the whole thing somewhat more massive, which will help. Also, I intend to double up the thickness of the legs, from 1.5" to 3". again, more wood = more mass.

Any thoughts on design improvement?

Thanks,
Dave

The inset from the edge of the table to the legs in either direction look way bigger than needed. The main clearance is for knee room, a persons feet can move around an object a lot easier. If you have 16" offset from edge of table to the legs from the end, that is more room than you need although if it were practical, it would be nice, but the table needs to work. 12" is the number I would work with to start, on the distance from the end of the table and the spread of the legs, the way you have the nice curve moving away where the knees are, if you moved the bottom of the legs so the feet rest about 6" vertical drop from the edge of the table, you should find it will greatly improve the tip resistance.


How can I increase water pressure after installing dual-head shower? I recently installed a 2-headed shower system in my master bathroom (2 shower heads coming from one pipe).  Afterwards, the problem I suspected occurred.

Having the "gate", if you will, set to direct all water flow to one head works great.  However, if I try to make it so both outputs have a stream of water, the pressure in both is too low to be of much use.

Is there any way I can increase the water pressure for this shower?  All the other faucets and such are fine, so I'm not sure if increasing pressure to the entire house is what I am looking for.

This may not be it exactly, but the system basically this:

Excuse me if I used improper terminology, but hopefully this is understandable.

You would need to increase the pipe size from the water supply (hot and cold) to the shower in question.

A potential alternate solution/issue may be that some (most?) of the "gate" or "diverter" valves are not really giving full flow to either device when "set in the middle" - they are designed to go one way or the other, not both. A different one might offer less restriction in that mode; or something cobbled up from a Tee and two full-flow shutoff valves.


How can I dehumidify the bathroom while I shower, without using the ceiling fan? My grandparents live in a condo in Toronto. Whenever they shower, they open the bathroom door fully, but this still fails to remove most of the steam. They must turn on their ceiling vent fan.

If the weather is cold, does turning on the ceiling fan convey cold air to the bathroom?

They always feel cold incoming air  while showering in the winter, whenever they turn it on. But they've never felt  it  whenever the fan's off.

Please see this question's title overhead.

They'd loathe to buy a dehumidifier just for this goal. Besides, I don't think a dehumidifier can safely be placed inside a bathroom?

They are feeling cold because the elderly feel drafts like crazy. Turning on the fan conveys hot humid air outside and that air gets replaced with air from the house which feels cool compared to the hot humid bathroom air.

It also feels cold when water evaporates off your body and if you are removing the humidity from the bathroom moisture evaporation on your body increases thus making you loose heat.

One option is to install a heating lamp or a new school equivalent. Btw I'm from Toronto ;-p

Here's a heat lamp exhaust fan
www.amazon.ca

With this type of unit additional wiring may need to be added.


Repairing textured walls We are making an offer on a home with textured walls.  Unfortunately, the owner has many, many pictures/decorations hanging. Can we ask that the walls be repaired as part of the offer?  Repair looks like a very big deal to me.

You can ask anything you want from the seller.  Replace the roof, add a garage, repaint, remove shrubbery, fix a sewer line, replace the fireplace, etc.

Typically the seller will either reject any involvement in such projects (considering them excessive or unnecessary for adequate living conditions), or agree to a lower price to offset your cost of doing it yourself (or by a contractor).

Around here (Oregon), wall hanging holes are considered part of the normal wear and tear of a home.  Usually, it isn't much work to spackle the holes, sand, and repaint to get a passably virgin-looking surface.

If there is a serious degradation of the wall surface—beyond normal wear (for example 10 years of missing a dartboard)— you could ask for sheetrock replacement but that would only seem sensible if the wall has widespread major damage evident by its very structure being weakened.


pressure-treated ramp to storage shed I am a home owner & have just replaced the sloped ramp to our storage shed with 1/2" PT 2 weeks ago.  We live in the Atlanta, GA area so temps have been 90s for highs, with showers frequently.  1)  How long do I wait to paint ramp?  & 2)  do I prime before painting?

The rule is - flick water on the dry plywood. If it beads, wait. If it absorbs, you're ready.

Always prime first. NOT Paint & Primer-in-one hokey. That's not actually primer, it's just thick paint. Use a good quality acrylic wood primer rated for exterior, or better yet, use oil based Kilz.

Editting to add: I regularly cheat a paint job on green pt, using only acrylic latex primers amd paint. However, expect to have to repaint after one year.


Is MAPP gas actually hotter? My hardware store sells both MAPP and propane torches.  The MAPP torches claim to burn hotter.  I was curious how much, so I took a look online.  By this table, propane burns in air at 1967 C, while MAPP burns at 2010 C.  I don't think this is a great enough difference to really matter in most applications.  What am I missing, here?

MAPP (which is actually a different gas marketed under the old name now) gives more heat than propane without supplemental oxygen, so it's still useable by people without training on mixed fuel torches. The fuel is more expensive than mixed setup, but the equipment cost is much lower; that's a reasonable trade off for something that isn't seeing constant use.

Speaking of which, MAPP torches will heat things up quicker than propane torches. It doesn't matter much for soldering plumbing, but it can be a real time saver if you're trying to loosen parts or heat something large. Some brazing compounds are also (technically) useable with MAPP, though the lower heat generally limits the size of the parts you can repair.

I believe there was a period of time where MAPP was widely used in cooling systems. The joints there generally need to be brazed rather than soldered, but the piping itself is easy to damage with high temperature torch. Cutting torches don't actually melt metals the way most people assume. Instead the torch heats the metal up to increase the rate of oxidation. Once the preheat is done a trigger on the torch allows even more oxygen into the flame, which reacts with the metal. This is why soldering requires flux, to prevent the hot fittings from oxidizing due to contact with the air.

The point being that too much torch can be a problem. You can weaken things unintentionally, burn off the flux and ruin the joint, start the occasional fire. The main reason MAPP didn't completely die off is that it fits a somewhat useful niche where it's hotter than propane, but not nearly as hot or complicated as a gas welding/cutting setup.


Breaker not resetting Remodeling bathroom I took original light (set up by electrician) and put up a basic temporary fixture. No problems. Finished remodel and replaced temporary with original. Breaker won’t reset. I’ve taken down the light and capped the wires, tried reset but breaker wouldn’t reset, then replaced temporary, tried reset and still breaker won’t reset. This circuit runs half my basement. I’ve wired enough lights, fans etc to know I haven’t crossed wires.

Sometimes you have to push the breaker all the way in the 'wrong' way then reset it. I don't know why this sometimes works but it has for me on multiple occasions


Can drywall tape be applied after mud has dried? My son put one layer of mud on the drywall joints without placing tape. Can I still place the drywall tape after the mud has dried?

No.

Drywall tape dries with the drywall compound (mud). They bound together while drying/setting.

If you put tape on top of dried mud, you will likely get nothing but bubbles in the tape from ceiling to floor. Bubbles in the tape are air trapped between the tape and underlying mud, and must be cut out and either re-mudded (small bubbles) or re-taped and re-mudded (large bubbles) otherwise the finished wall will not be smooth.

You must sand down the drywall compound so it is below the level of the drywall (if it is in a tapered joint: for corners/butt joints, just sand down almost to the paper), apply more compound, and tape immediately while wet.

Another option is to use mesh tape on top of the dried drywall compound: it can be used on top of dried mud or just plain paper (the room I am in right now has this tape directly on the drywall for its corner joints and has no issues).


Is this outlet wiring correct? I was checking outlets to insure that they were wired correctly, and in doing I discover this one. The outlet tester said it wasn't grounded. There is one black wire coming from what appears to be a light switch, wrapping around a brass screw and going off to another light switch(I think). The other black wire goes elsewhere. Is this appropriate?

THank you,
Kathleen

If the outlet tester said the outlet is not grounded, it is not wired properly.

The three black wires are not the problem. this is a common technique for bringing power to an outlet and then continuing the power down the line to other outlets or fixtures.

The connection between the outlet and the switch may be one of two things:
- if the switch is downstream (further away from the power source) the outlet is passing current to the switch and then on to a fixture.
- if the switch is upstream (between the outlet and the power source), the outlet, and everything else powered by the black wires shown, are controlled by that switch. It is not possible to tell from the wiring shown.

The white wires in the background may be correct, but it is hard to be sure from this picture.

The real problem is the lack of ground.  There should be a green or bare wire in the outlet box. This wire needs to be attached to the grounding screw of the outlet.  If it is already attached to something else in the box, you need to remove the grounding and attach two pigtails to that ground and then attach tem to the other grounded item and the outlet.

Given the information in your question, it sounds as if you have little experience in handling electricity.  It might be advisable to have this project done by someone with a bit more experience while you look on and become more familiar with power.

Above all, make sure that the power to all wires in the box is off (test with a non-contact tester) before attempting anything.


How do I remove an unknown stain from my carpet? I just moved into a place and underneath my bed there's a weird spill. I'm Not sure what it is: it's dark red and thick and dry. Is there any way to clean it or if not cover it up so it doesn't spread germs to the rest of the room? I typically use the space beneath my bed for storing things. If I had to guess it's probably food or vomit or blood.

Here's a picture after treating it a couple times with white vinegar. It's much better! The lighting is poor because it's under my bed so I used an LED head lamp to shine light on it.

If your carpet is a light color then try white vinegar on it first. I use this for pet stains and its light years beyond any product specifically formulated for stains and 1/20th the cost. It kills germs/bacteria/mold. I pour the vinegar straight from the bottle onto the stain, thoroughly soaking the carpet. It will begin to react with the stain and start fizzing. Once the fizzing stops you can soak it up with a paper towel but its best if you use a steam cleaner with just water in the tank to remove as much of the vinegar and the residual odor as possible. It will have a strong odor that will completely dissipate after two days assuming you sucked enough of it up after application.


How much thinset is enough? I'm having a shower tiled and I noticed that the tiler didn't put thinset over the entire area, just on the back of individual tiles.

The tiles are heavy stone 3/8x6x12. He used a 1/2 x 1/2 trowel to apply the thinset. It looks like he put just enough in the middle of the back of the tile to keep it from smooshing out to the edges instead of applying it to the Durock® and pressing the tile into it.

Is this normal?

The purpose of the thinset is to secure the tile to the substrate (the Durock in this case).  So if the tile stays on the wall, I suppose you could say it is enough, but I don't think that is what you are asking.

I am no tile pro but my understanding is that you want to have at least 90% coverage on the back of the tile once it is pressed into the wall.  The only way to really test this is while laying the tile and try it out. Push the tile onto the wall and then pull it off again, is there thinset on almost the entire back surface of the tile (and the trowel's pattern is no longer visible)?

Applying thinset directly to the back of the tile is called "back buttering" and is a very common technique with large format tiles and natural stone. I think it is usually combined with troweling thinset onto the wall (or floor) and is not a replacement for it (but I am not real sure about that).

1/2 x 1/2 notch trowel seems fine, when I did our shower with 8x12 porcelain tile I used a 3/8 x 3/8.  If the installer was only back buttering the tile in the middle but troweled it out so almost the tile’s entire backside was covered with the 1/2" notch pattern of thinset that is OK; it will work just as well so doing that same thing on the wall.

All that really matters is if there is enough thinset on the backs of the tiles.  If the installer only dabbed a little thinset in the middle of the tile, they will not be as securely attached compared to if the whole tile was covered. Without knowing exactly what the coverage on the back of the tile, it is impossible to guess if you tile is fine and will last for many years or if they may fail premature because they were not secured to the wall well enough.


Hiding a crack in glass From time to time I'll find a crack in some glass item I own where the crack isn't a structural issue, but is only a visual issue. The crack is visible because of the air in the crack causing a sudden change in the refractive index. I'm assuming there are no good ways to truly fix such a crack, but I'd like to make it less visible.

The obvious approach would be to drop on some water or oil that would fill the crack; this should stop the sudden refractive index change and hide the crack. But, this would only be temporary, as the water (and even the oil) would eventually evaporate or migrate away from the crack.

Are there any good, permanent ways to hide a crack in glass?

There are products which claim to hide cracks on windshields by injecting an adhesive with similar refractive index. I have no idea whether they work in that application, and your glass objects may have different optical properties, so there is no promise that this won't make matters worse rather than better.


question on the roof structure of my garage This is a follow-up question on how to carry 20ft lumbers to home. Thanks for the advices and comments. I learned a lot. :) Because the question is now diviated from the original question, I made a new thread.

My garage is about 20 ft x 20 ft and has the hip roof structure. It has a long beam (rafter tie) that connects the front and the rear rafts and three beams that connect the right and left rafts. The three rafter ties are all located in the rear side. There was one rafter tie in the front side but was removed by a contractor about 3 months ago. The reason is that, we replaced the roof of the main house about 8 months ago and the roof workers put all the materials on the garage roof (which I still do not understand). Since then, the front side of the garage sunk a little bit, which caused the front rafter tie to be hit by the garage door when it was opened. When I talked to a contractor about this problem, he tried to lift up the front rafter tie but found that the nailed parts on one rafter got damaged and couldn't lift it up. So, he simply removed the rafter tie, telling me that it should be fine. Now that I learned that it is NOT ok, I plan to install rafter ties in the front side.

a) Firstly, is it something that amateur DIYers like me can do? Or, is it better to be done by a professional? Because it is a structure problem, I am concerend with any possible mistake which might lead to a severe consequence. But, if it is a simple job (for example, just nailing 20ft 2x4 to the rafters), I probably can do.

b) If I hire somebody else, whom should I contact? Would a handy-man be able to take care of this? Or, should I contact a professional structure engineer?

c) In general, how many rafters would be needed for 20x20 garage? Would it be even better if I add more rafter ties beside the removed one?

For the reference, I am attaching three photos of the roof structure:

In order:

a) You can do it! You didn't mention anything about trying to move the existing structure, so this is based on my understanding that you are simply adding the tie back in to prevent further spreading. Personally I would use something more like a 2x8 or 2x10; a 20 ft. span is a long way for a 2x4, and you'll likely see some sag. I would put 5 nails into each rafter, in a rough square pattern with one in the center. But, you'll want to offset the nails a bit from each other so that they aren't going through the same grain (which can make it easier for a crack to split the wood where the nails are). You can cut the ends at the same angle as the rafters to get a longer surface to nail through.

b) If you do end up hiring someone else, a handyman could certainly handle it.

c) From your pictures, one tie every other is fine: the plates of the walls aren't going to move with a tie every 4 feet, and additional ones aren't going to do much.


Toilet Water Shoots upwards When Flushed like a volcano erupting This issue is with an American Standard single piece toilet. I just changed the 'fill valve' and since then the toilet water erupts shoot upwards, making a mess. The amount of water shooting upwards is very little but enough to reach the toilet seat. The Toilet does not seem to be plugged. I talked to the plumber about this, and he suggested using the 'SNAKE' to clear any blockages.

Water probably isn't "shooting upwards", but rather not draining fast enough based on the inflow of water.  Per your plumber, it is probably partially clogged.  With a toilet, you want to use a toilet auger instead of a snake as it is designed to get around the bend without damaging the finish of your toilet.

If you want to confirm its a draining issue, try pouring a bucket of water into the toilet. It should drain almost instantly without the level increasing.  If it doesn't, it's clogged.


15A air compressor blowing 15A breaker I got a used air compressor rated at 15A (120V). When plugging it in to either of two 15A circuits I have in my basement, it will work for 8-10 minutes, then the breaker will trip. You'd think the most common time to trip might be when the compressor motor cuts in, but it actually trips mid-way through the 2nd or 3rd cycle. To my ear, it sounds absolutely normal and then just quits when the breaker trips.

There is nothing else on the circuits in question. The breakers are clearly 15A. One of the circuits is only about 10'/3m (wire distance) from the panel. My clamp multimeter is terrible (updates very slowly), so I can't see transients very well, but the compressor does appear to draw around 14.5A when the motor is running. The breakers were installed before I bought this house, and have seen minimal use (previous occupant was a renter who had a small fridge plugged in to one circuit, and probably never used the other. The guy sure as hell never used a vacuum cleaner, anyway). Finally, I am not doing anything dumb like using an extension cord--the 6'/2m cord and NEMA 5-15 plug are clearly factory and in good condition. I've cleaned both the outlet and compressor plug, and ensured they make a good connection.

Do I need to run a new circuit and 20A breaker? It'd only be 10'/3m of 12AWG and there's space in the panel. Or do I need to look for a fault in the compressor? Better yet, is this a good time to convince my wife I need a better clamp meter?

I think you need a bit of “headroom” so a new circuit with the 20A breaker should do it.

For both breakers to run the same amount of time seems to suggest both are functioning correctly. The regs I usually consult gives times for breakers to act if the load is close to the rated value so it sounds like those two 15A breakers are just being run close to the edge and tripping due to an extended time.

I would definitely test it with a 20A breaker - safely though...


Can I fill the void behind the shelves in a tub surround with polyurethane spray foam for added strength? My wife and I plan on putting up a tub surround.

I have researched a bunch of these and on a few of the reviews I have read that the shelves are flimsy.

The surround she likes (therefore the one we are going with) will probably be this one.

I was wondering could I fill the void in the back of the shelves with great stuff for added strength?

This would firm up the shelves without adding undo weight.

Would the expanding great stuff push to much and possibly crack the shelf void?

I can share some experience and advice here...

don't put anything hard in the shelves - like a bar or wood in the shelving void.  The house will move, the tub will move and this will move any type of insulation you use in addition.  Pretty soon you will have a shelf that is awkwardly hard in some area and soft in other and possible bulges.
do put insulation in the shelves
do put insulation in all of the other voids in the tub surround

Great Stuff is actually the exact choice you want if you are going the spray foam route.  You will want to tape the back of the shelf section (duct tape) after.  That is to ensure the spray foam doesn't move too much.  Also you may want to quickly sand the inside with a rough grit to allow better bonding.  If your fiberglass is thin you want to go spray foam.  The drawback of the spray foam is that under heavy stress and time the spray foam can break off from the shelf and then potential move a lot.  Shelf will still be sturdier but may make a little noise.  And that is really the negative with spray foam - you have the chance of hearing a rubbing noise after wear.

I really really suggest filling large (non-shelf) voids with fiberglass batts.  I lay the fiberglass all around the tub, I pack it in huge voids, and fill (pack) shelves with it...  I fill shelves if I believe that particular fiberglass is thick enough to handle the extra weight (I know it isn't much).  I will generally try to use fiberglass because it isn't noisy and gives the fiberglass a soft marshmallow feeling.   I would also tape the back of the shelves with the fiberglass so it doesn't fall out.

IMO this is a huge upgrade done for $40.


Flattening Concrete for Dricore Product Suggestion I am in the process of laying DRIcore panels in my basement. The ultimate plan is to lay laminate (Pergo) floor once we reach the finish stages.

I have a few small areas where the concrete dips about an inch or so. DriCore recommends filling these areas with a Portland Cement Compound. I see Lowe's and HD have some premixed floor patch. Would that be easiest way to raise up about a 10 sq .ft. area 1 inch or do I have to buy a bag of concrete and trowel on? I don't want to use the self leveling compound as I have already laid half of the DRIcore down, and have laundry equipment there that I would hate to have it run under, if any dams didnt hold the compound.

Looking for product suggestions I can get from Lowe's or HD. Just a plain bag of concrete? Am I overthinking this?

I ended up using a product from HD by custom building products called SpeedFinish (for about $16/box).  It is a portland cement based compound designed to level floors.  The box says it cures in about 15 minutes. In reality it took a few hours before it fully hardened.  I was able to build up the low spot of the concrete floor (i used 3 10lb boxes). I was able to get a nice smooth feather finish and the product dried rock hard. My thinking behind this was that I no longer need to shim that area, the dricore tiles felt very spongy if they were shimmed out pretty high.  This completely eliminated the issue and my floor feels great. I also dont care cosmetically because the dricore will be hiding the patch job.  Also, if you go this route some advice is to buy more speedfinish than you think, one box does not cover a lot of area, especially if you are trying to raise it up about 1/4" like I was.


Do fluorescent fixtures rated for "Through Wiring" exist? I'd like to span a lighting circuit and an appliance circuit across a steel I-beam in a low ceiling garage using a fluorescent fixture:

Lighting + Appliance Circuit ------\   I   /-------- Appliance Circuit
                             ______|___I___|_________
                                 '-----------'

The fluorescent fixture is shown in the above ASCII art attached to the ceiling below the "I" beam.

In a previous question I confirmed that given a light fixture "identified for through-wiring", this is up to code. However, I haven't been able to find any fluorescent fixtures "identified for through-wiring". None of the product literature mentions anything like that. I've seen some that are indicated for end-to-end connection, but I don't think I can put an appliance circuit through one like that.

I don't want this to be a "shopping" post, but can anyone point me to some example product literature for a fluorescent fixture so I and others know what kind of wording to look for?

There should be a stamp/label on the fixture similar to

  MAXIMUM OF 8 NO 12 AWG THROUGH BRANCH CIRCUIT CONDUCTORS SUITABLE FOR AT LEAST 90°C PERMITTED IN BOX (4 IN 4 OUT).

Not sure that would be listed anywhere if you're shopping online, as most websites aren't great at describing products. Surely if you went to a physical store, you could inspect the fixture for the marking. You might also be able to find this information on the manufacturer's website, in their catalog, or by contacting them directly.


Adding whole home water filter to the main water line line I would like to install a whole home water filter just after the water tank. The line coming out of the tank to the rest of the house is 3/4in pex. The filter systems that I have looked at so far are all 1/2in connectors. If I use 3/4 to 1/2 adapter to connect to the filter, then another from the filter back to the rest of the pipe system, is this going to cause any negative affects to the water pressure for the rest of the house?

I would have to question your reasoning for filtering all the water you use in your house. Filtering can get expensive when you start having to replace filter cartridges, especially those rated to take most of the nasty things out of the water. It really is a waste in most cases to be using filtered water to flush toilets, wash cloths, shower and wash dishes.

It is a lot more cost effective to install a filter at one location, such as at the kitchen sink, where water is filtered to a separate valve for drinking, cooking and to feed the ice maker in the refrigerator.

If your reasoning is based upon hard water that has a lot of dissolved minerals or iron in it then there may be better choices to use a water softener rather than a filter.


Latex paint dried and thickened, can I still use it for a touch up? I was just about to do some touchup work in a room when I discovered upon opening the can that the remaining paint had thickened into a much thicker consistency. I think the lid may not have been on correctly.

Can I use it as is for touch ups? Or would it be best to apply some kind of thinner? Do I have to go out and buy paint thinner, or is there something else I could use that would spare me the trip to the store?

Its latex paint, about a year old. From Benjamin Moore.

Latex paint can generally be thinned with plain water... but I'd test with a very small quantity and a piece of scrap wood first.  If you can't get a good consistency, there are thinners made specifically for latex - SCL-Sterling makes one called Thin-X Latex that I used a while back, with good results.


Can I install an outlet near the ceiling of a pavilion? I'm in the process of building a pavilion.  I'm doing the work myself.  We are hanging a TV from the ceiling.  I was planning on installing an outlet near the ceiling so I can plug in the TV.  However, I've seen conflicting height requirements.  I've seen some say that the maximum height from grade is 6'6" for an outlet.  Then I've seen other say that is only for switches, not outlets. Thanks for any help.

You can put a plain outlet anywhere you please.

The reason this is an issue is that in certain locations, the outlet needs to be GFCI protected.  And you can't put a GFCI test/reset button that high.

So if GFCI protection is even required, take advantage of a feature of almost every GFCI device, called "Load", which allows it to protect plain devices downstream.  That is obvious when dealing with GFCI+breakers or GFCI-only ("deadfront") devices.  But GFCI+receptacle devices can do it too!   So you just install one of those in an accessible location, and you're all set.


How complicated is it to convert a hinged two door closet to a sliding doors? As you can see in the picture, we have a massive two door hallway closet. The door is very obstructive in that location and it would be very convenient to have sliding doors.

What is involved in the conversion process to a sliding door?
Can the existing doors be repurposed into sliding doors?

2nd picture can be used as a point of reference for the construction of the frame.

There is a wide range of standard mounting kits for sliding doors, many of which can be purchased in home centers such as one of these:

The sets come with a track, trolleys for the doors and attaching hardware.  Some come with trim strips that may or not work in your configuration. Stock trim cam be used instead.

These systems are designed to be attached to standard doors.  There is no reason you could not use the existing doors unless they are way beyond standard weight (unlikely). You will likely need to cut 3/4 to 1+ inch from the doors, preferably from the bottom. You also will need to remove the handle and hinge hardware and fill the gaps left behind.

You can choose from a variety of options, depending on how heavy duty a setup you want (pick commercial grade if you want stronger), and how you want to place and face the track. It can easily be hidden behind your own trim work once the track is hung and the doors are in place.

It isn't hard to do, but requires some care in leveling, and an extra pair of hands helps in mounting the doors.


Dual Thermostats: Which wire goes where? I have two heating systems in my house, oil and wood. I’m currently swapping out old mercury thermostats with new ones. I’ve got the wood one replaced with a newer analog one which I think is okay, but I’m using a digital for the oil. The thing is, the previous thermostats shares the same red wire, so now I’m wondering where the blue and red wire go in the second pic for the digital. Thanks!

You should baptise 'main' and 'auxiliary' heat, so with a single stat, you can control both systems. Using common, 'CallForHeat' and 'AuxiliaryHeat'  connections.

For single generator units (Ex: only oil heat), if you have only 2 wires, just use connectors R(h) and Common (W), as Rc is used for cooling. If you have forced air, you may have also G cable (fan). Other wires are used for more advanced setups.


Is there a glue which holds to glazed porcelain tiles? My shower does not have a cabin, only a curtain. Said curtain tends to wave around while I am in the shower, clinging to my legs and letting water flow outside.

My best idea for a low-cost solution was to sew some Velcro strips to the (textile) curtain. This worked well, until I tried to fasten the hooky strips to the wall. It turns out that none of the glues and double-sided tapes I have at home are strong enough. When I pull on the Velcro, the hooky strip comes off the wall and stays hooked to the fluffy strip on the curtain.

Any ideas for low-cost, non-invasive methods of getting the strips to stick to the wall? I assume that I need a stronger glue - what should I look for? Or is it a fool's errand? I am renting this apartment - I can't drill holes and screw something glue-friendly under the Velcro.

The wall is covered with glazed porcelain tile.

If you will first thoroughly wet all the pertinent surfaces, your shower curtain will cling all by itself and greatly reduce the irritating billowing and waving, also the leaks to the outside on both ends.  I just toss handfuls of water everywhere I want the curtain to seal off and stick down.  Good luck-


Who to contact to identify source of and address excessive humidity in house? My house, a 1947 cape in Massachusetts, is always much more humid that outside, in all seasons.  Even when running the dehumidifier, one in the basement, and one on each of the two main levels, it rarely falls below 50%, even when outside is only in the teens or 20s.  I've had a few outbreaks of mold, when I failed to run the dehumidifier regularly.  This is an issue that is too big for me to address.  So, I'd like to bring in an expert to assess and address the situation.  Yet, I haven't been able to find one.  Who should I call in a situation like this?  Thanks!

I had a home in Ohio with a basement that had high humidity a large dehumidifier running 24-7 pulled an amazing amount of moisture out of the air. Late in the summer we epoxy painted the floor with a 2 part epoxy and this alone greatly reduced the moisture in the house.

We had taped plastic down in 5 places in the basement for 24 hours  to see if there were places that were worse (the front of the house was very wet, we had to wait until summer for the moisture to be low enough to paint (according to the directions) after that we did not need the big dehumidifier coating the floor but we still did use a much smaller model , I have coated quite a few basement floors since then all with similar results so you may give this a try.


Torque for receptacles and light switches When connecting wires to the screw terminals on receptacles or light switches, what torque should they be tightened to if no torque is indicated either on the device itself or in its installation instructions? For example, the instructions for Leviton's receptacles and switches just say to "firmly" tighten them.

Generally, 14 inch-pounds is safe, although you can go somewhat higher if you wish
UL 498 (i.e the standard for receptacles in the US) calls out a tightening torque of 12-14 inch-pounds for wire binding screws (depending on size) in Table 123.3 as part of the Terminal Strength Test, and repeats that 14 inch-pound figure for 12AWG wire in 113.13 for the Terminal Temperature Test.  Given that you're generally dealing with duplex receptacles, and those almost always support through-wiring, 14 inch-pounds is a reasonable figure as 113.4 requires their terminals to be temperature tested with 12AWG wire if they aren't based on a 20A design, and most are based on a 20A design anyway.
Likewise, UL 20's terminal retention tests (found in clause 5.30) repeat those figures in Table 16, and Leviton's own specifications for their residential receptacles call out 14-18 inch-pounds of torque.


Why do my clothes smell when I dry them outside on line but they are fine when tumble dried? When I tumble dry my clothes they smell fine.
When I line (outside) dry them they smell quite bad, a musty stale smell.
In both instances they have been taken out of washing machine quite quickly after the cycle has finished and smell good coming out of the machine?

Any tips on how to keep them smelling good when outside line drying?

Smells generally come from bacteria which thrive in a moist environment. A dryer heats up clothing to the point where most of these bacteria are killed off.

It's possible that the bacteria is coming from your washing machine, if you usually do cool or cold cycles and haven't cleaned it out in awhile then it is a breeding ground. Try running an empty load at its highest temperature, or better yet running an empty load with a washing machine cleaner to get it gunk-free. That should get your washing smelling fresh when using a line.


How to widen deck past beam I want to extend my deck 12x16 to 12x18. What is the easiest way to widen the deck by 2 feet from a structural standpoint? How do I go wider than the beam?

I’d remove the last two existing joists (joists furthest from the house) and reinstall them next to the third joists. I’d fasten them together with 1/2” thru bolts at 8” o.c. Staggered 16” o.c. Top and bottom. (Install them 3” from the top and bottom

Then I’d install a 4x12 across the end of the deck (extending it to the existing width at each end) and align the top with the top of the existing beam. I’d fasten it to the existing beams with Simpson GLTV beam hanger (installed upside-down) at each end. (Be sure to order it the correct depth based on your existing joist depth.)

Then I’d install the same size joists as the existing joists and cantilever them 2’ to gain the 24” you’re requiring. I’d install solid blocking between the new cantilevered joists and clip each joist to the top of the new beam with a Simpson A35. I’d use Simpson “U” Series for the connection to the 3-sistered joists.

Then, I’d reinstall the diagonal bracing.

Extend existing deck covering as required.


What is on my sink faucet? Trying to install RO system I just moved into an apartment and I want to install a counter top RO system. These usually screw onto the faucet but the faucet in my apartment seems to have this plastic thing attached to it instead of any threading. What is this called? Can i install an RO system with it? If not, should/can I remove it(safely?), or try to get some kind of adapter? Is there an adapter for this even?

That is just a cheap plastic aerator and should unscrew. Turn clockwise looking down on the faucet. There will probably be female  threads in the faucet. Good luck.