How do I chain edison bulbs together with a junction box?- I want to chain 6 Edison Lights
They are a Standard Edison base, E26 medium, 120 volts.

I am going to be hanging them on a 18 gauge wrapped copper wire.

I am wondering how to wire them together and then wire them to the ceiling box pictured below. I am also looking at using this Keyless socket. 660 W. 250 V

I have looked at a junction box picture below but not sure where to go from here. Do I chain the cables together somehow?

Here is a a image of my junction box, I think thats what its called in my ceiling

I see three questions to answer:

1) How do I wire the lights?

You need to wire them in parallel. Assuming you are in the United States, your wires will likely be white and black. This diagram shows how the lights should be wired together.

2) How do I connect the light to the box in the ceiling?

Electrically speaking (and assuming that the wires in the box match the standard color-coding), you connect the black wire from your lights to the black wire in the box, white with white, all with appropriately sized wire nuts. If your fixture has a ground wire or screw, that should be connected to the green wire or bare copper wire in the ceiling box.

To physically attach your light fixture to the box, you use the metal strap attached to the ceiling box. (The one with the hole in the middle that the wire is sticking out of.) You can remove the screws on either end and the strap will come off. Mount the strap on to your light fixture, then put the strap back in position and screw it in.

3) How I use the white junction box?

Read the directions. It will likely say that you can not put multiple wires in to a single hole. Therefore, this junction box will not help you "split" the incoming wires to each of your lights. Find a different solution. Alternatives would be wire nuts or push-in wire connectors. Just make sure you use the correct nut or connector based on the conductor size of your wire. Wire nuts are appropriate for stranded wire. I've had mixed success with push-in connectors and stranded wire so I would stay away from that combination.


Why does my oil furnace cycle quickly? I have a Rheem ROBF-067LBEA949 oil furnace as part of a forced-air Rheem UPNL-036JAZ heat-pump heating-and-cooling system, controlled by a Honeywell TH5220D1029 thermostat in its 2H1C w/ AUX configuration.  We've only been in this house through one winter, so I don't know what's "normal", but the oil furnace seems to come on, run for 5-10 minutes, shut off, wait for 5 minutes, then come back on.  I know in a compressor A/C system, this would be called "short cycling", and would be bad for the compressor.  I'm concerned that this might be bad for the furnace over a long period.

Got any advice?

Yes I would call 5 to 10-minutes with a heat pump is a short cycle. You or someone needs to trouble-shoot to see what is interrupting the signal to the compressor contactor. If it is coming from the thermostat it could be programmed wrong. If you want a non-programmable Heat Pump stat try Honeywell #RTH3100C.  Many companies make this though.  Google non-programmable heat pump thermostat.


Alternatives to wood joists I have a brick(3 wythe) building and starting to plan a kitchen remodel. The floor in the kitchen is pretty slanted and the wood joists don't look too good. So I will need some way to level the floor. I'm thinking, since I will be stripping all the plaster and drywall, it might make sense to completely replace the floor and the joists as well.

I personally hate wood as building material(except for decoration) In my opinion, houses should be made of brick, concrete, steel and not wood. What are some alternatives for wood joists and floor boards in residential construction? What's the typical cost for those materials?

Other than engineered Joists, which are also made of wood products, the only alternative are steel I-beams with a wood nailer. That is of course you want to go complete commercial with steel and concrete panel floors.  You better have a very fat wallet and an engineer to sign off for the modification in Mass. Such a deviation from standard residential practice will require a permit and prior approval, accompanied with a engineered comfirmation of conformity. I have had to supply this type of documentation every time I replace wooden beams with steel beams to eliminate support posts or lalley columns .

The other major consideration is how you plan to nest the steel, smaller joists into, or onto the lower supporting wall.


Is AFCI a requirement outside the United States? I have been asked to come into a site (outside of United States; Central America to be specific) - but one of the personnel there asked about NEC compliance; specifically AFCI.  How can I educate myself on what is or isn't covered by NEC outside the United States.  Additionally, is there a way I can recommend (with some authority) so that the site adopt NEC compliance.

Thank you in advance for any and all assistance on this matter....

NEC 2017 requires AFCI in a number of places, unless the state law that adopts NEC 2017 or a local ordinance waives that requirement.

If they don't have a functioning government, then it'll be pretty hard for them to waive an AFCI requirement.  So yeah, it would be required most places.

There's a little more armwaving going on here, but it boils down to "the customer is always right".  Basically the AHJ is the customer.


What type of fastener should I use for a hollow wood door? I'm planning on putting a bathrobe/extra towel hook on the back of my bathroom door, but I'm pretty sure it's hollow wood. Can I just use the standard screws that come with the hook kit, or do I need something else?

You'll need hollow door fixings - something like these

  Expanding wings grip securely in hollow doors, thin skin partitions, plywood and fibreglass.
  Ideal for the home, boat and caravan.


Calculating Stair Strings - Is 7.92" Too High of a Rise for Patio Stairs? I'm adding steps from a house down to a patio and am trying to build the stringers:

23.75" Total Rise
12x2 nominal lumber for the stringers. Total of 4 stringers @ 48" wide
.92" composite treads
11.75" tread depth (including the riser)
1" nominal risers

With that rise including 3 steps, each step is 7.92" high.  This is above the recommended 7.75".  Will that be very difficult to use?
Also, does anyone have a good stair stringer calculator?  I've tried a few but am seeing different results for each.

The maximum riser height allowed by Code is 8”. (See ICC R311.5.3.1)
The minimum riser height allowed by Code is 4”. (See ICC R311..5.3.4)
The maximum difference between the maximum height of any riser and the smallest allowed by Code is 3/8”. (See ICC R311.5.3)
Keep the maximum number of risers at 3 and you won’t be required to install a handrail.
Handrails are required when there are 4 or more risers. (See ICC R311.5.6)


Drawer/Cabinet Pull Install Splintered interior Veneer My contractor installed the cabinet/drawer pulls and splintered the maple veneer on the inside of more than 1/2 of the cabinet/drawers. Is there a repair, plug, etc that can be made to hide the poor quality work that has been done aside from replacing the fronts? :(

I agree that it sounds like crappy workmanship that came from your contractor. The best situation is to talk to the contractor and tell them that how unhappy you are with the crap quality.

What the contractor should have done when drilling the holes for the drawer pulls was to clamp a piece of scrap wood to the inside face of the drawer front to prevent the splintering as the drill bit exited through the wood. Not doing this is the sign of a rank amateur contractor.

If this has just happened on the drawers and not on any doors there is one thing that may bring some piece of mind for you. Rarely are people going to be looking down inside the fronts of your cabinet drawers so maybe you can just let it go after getting some financial adjustment out of the contractor.

Note that most cabinet drawers are not built in a way where it is particularly easy to remove and replace the drawer fronts. Particularly in the case where higher quality drawer assemblies may have glued joints. Some cheaper cabinet work may just have the drawer front stapled in place through the side panels. This latter may be easier to replace.

If the damage exists on cabinet doors then you are probably facing having to have the whole door replaced if you cannot accept the crappy quality work.


Can PVC be encased horizontally in concrete Have an unfortunate "this is the only way this is going to work" situation with a DMV repair, resulting in the repair portion of the drain pipe, having to run 4 feet horizontally (yes, at the correct slope of 1/4"/ft) before turning up into the main vent stack...mostly above the gravel sub-grade and tapering into being completely within the 6" horizontal space where the concrete slab will be repoured. Question is, can 3" sch. 40 PVC pipe be directly embedded in concrete? Not covered by, or under, but directly embedded (concrete will fully encase 4ft of the pipe). Wondering if the heat of curing will warp/crush the pipe? I know horizontal stub-outs come through a concrete slab all of the time with no issue, but not seeing a lot of examples of horizontal embedding. I'm sure there are other ways to do this without the last-ditch option of embedding PVC horizontally in concrete, but those involve a 5-figure $$ removal of the entire basement slab and replacement of every single pipe.....just to get that 4' run of PVC encased completely in the gravel sub grade. The attached photo is a very poor rendition of what's going on here, not to scale, best a non-computer person could do!

PVC pipe embedded in concrete should be fine under most codes I've seen.  You'd need to sleeve something like black, galvanized, or no-hub iron pipe, but PVC and ABS are impervious on any reasonable timeline (~hundreds of years.)

You could have your inspector come through before the pour to check out your plumbing permit if needed.

And the diagram worked great, I think I understood exactly what it was conveying.


How can I remedy a septic system that is sometimes below the surrounding water level? We have a septic tank.  About two years ago, after a hurricane, we had additional drain lines placed because of excessive water.  Well, we had another hurricane and the tank was pumped.  We were told we needed another drain field so we paid for another one.

We have been having lots of rain after the hurricane and the ground is saturated.  When it rains, water sits on top of the tank.  One of toilets do not flush and the other one is flushing slow.  Once the sun comes out and it dries up, both toilets flushed.  I am so aggravated because I don't know what to do!!!

You have the wrong type of drainfield.

When there is a high watertable, alternate types of septic systems need to be installed, including: 1) curtain drains around your septic system (if the curtain drain can be discharged in a creek, swale, etc.), or 2) above ground septic system.

1)  Remember, most drain fields are not designed to allow water to drain down into the ground, but rather allow the water to evaporate. (That’s why the drain line is laid fairly close to the ground surface...18” - 24”, rather than 8’ down.) However, a careful evaluation of the soil (perk test) and the topography of the site.

Here’s a site that explains it pretty good. https://buildingadvisor.com/buying-land/septic-systems/how-a-septic-system-works/

2) Above ground systems rely 100% for the aeration of the water and the water is pumped up to it from the tank. They are expensive and seldom used. Usually, it’s just cheaper to pump after heavy rain storms that raise the watertable.


Should I install the vanity, or the split faced stone first? We're going to do the entire vanity wall in this tile.

Here is the vanity.

Originally we picked out a vanity that had open legs and probably could have been left freestanding in front of the wall.  But with this one I'm not so sure.

Do I install the vanity first, or the stone first (vanity over the stone)?

The advantage to doing the stone first is that my cuts become very minimal (just the wall edges), but then I'm thinking that the vanity will still need to be sealed to the wall.  Is that possible with the uneven surface of the tile?  With grout?

The other option is installing the vanity first, and then the stone around it.

I've installed that tile. It's not to hard to cut--even by hand as you can just cut through the mesh backing. Even easier with a tile saw. So I'd suggest not tiling more than you have to and live with the cutting.

So I'd install the vanity first, then tile around it.

That said, note that that tile a) can't be grouted and b) is very uneven and c) porous and rough. I'd suggest not using that as a backsplash at all as cleaning it will be a nightmare...and no matter how dainty we may think we are in the bathroom, the backsplash will get splattered when washing hands, cleaning makeup, brushing teeth, etc. I fear that you will regret using that type of tile as a backsplash.


Is adding a GFCI outlet ahead of inverter as good as having one on the inverter? I am shopping for a 48v DC to AC inverter. Ideally, I'd like the plugs on the inverter to be GFCI protected, but not all inverters have this feature.

This inverter is on a boat, mounted in a difficult to reach location.  Appliances will not be plugged in directly, but the inverter will feed a circuit that has all GFCI projected outlets.

I realize I won't get protection from the inverter to the outlet, but aside from that, is this the same as having GFCI on the inverter plugs?

If your house inverter is a true sine inverter it will work to have the GFCI outlets after the inverter, any imbalance in the hot neutral and they are I’ll trip just like with normal residential wiring you are used to.
 If the output is a modified sine wave the harmonics generated have caused problems with GFCI’s I have installed on a PV system. I did have luck with a second system back in 05? That was modified sine it did work when we tested it but I am not sure if under a heavy load the GFCI may trip like the first system did. These were the only ones the owners wanted GFCI protection many times on emergency circuits folks don’t want them to trip, I can see using them on a boat would be a good idea. Check the specifications on your inverter out put, if the graph shows a sine wave with lots of steps it is a modified sine, some of the newer ones the steps may be small enough to not cause the bad harmonics, if your inverter is pure sine it should have no problems at all.


Can this panel have a main shutoff switch installed on it? I'm thinking about connecting an additional 240v circuit to the panel in my apartment (7 apartments in the building, NYC) but the panel has no main shutoff breaker installed on it. I believe that the main shutoff breaker for the apartment is located in the basement but I would prefer an additional shutoff on the panel itself for the convenience and also for the peace of mind knowing that I won't get zapped if someone comes along and flips the basement switch on me while working on the panel.
I've never installed a main shutoff in a panel before so here's my questions. This panel can in fact have a main shutoff switch installed right? There is a little metal tear-out section on the panel front piece indicating that a main shutoff switch goes there but how would it attach? It must need to interrupt both hot service wires coming in right?

You could install a main breaker (what you're calling a main shutoff) but that REALLY shouldn't be done live, by anyone.  You'd have to lift your feeders and land them on the new main breaker terminals.
When the disconnect is not where you can keep an eye on it while you're working, like in your building, it should be lockable.  If the disconnect has a one-arm-bandit type arm to open it, those can be locked open with a padlock.  If it's just a regular breaker, you might be able to find a breaker lock that clamps on the breaker handle and can be locked with a padlock.


Hang indoor swing chair BETWEEN two ceiling joists I purchased one of those indoor hanging swing chairs for kids, specifically this one, which is meant to be mounted in the ceiling with a single eye bolt.

I want to hang this in a 38" space, between wall and bookshelf. This is pretty tight, so I need to mount pretty much in the middle. After finding the joists using a studfinder I found they are 24" apart in pretty much the worst place, a few inches near each side of the 38" space. In fact, directly between them is pretty much dead center.

My question is what options I might have to hang this swing (single strap) between the joists?

One idea is to attach a board between (what size? Attached how?). I do have access to the attic, there is some kind of loose insulation up there.

Another idea is to attach two eye bolts of some kind to the joists on each side and suspend with some kind of strap between, but again not sure the hardware I should use to do that.

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

You've hit on three viable options. I'll make some notes on each so you can decide.

Run a cleat across the gap

Requires perhaps the most damage to the finished ceiling, but simple and fairly easy
A 2x6 laid flat against the ceiling will carry the weight just fine (avoid boards with large knots)
Four 3-1/2" by 3/8" lag screws, properly piloted into the ceiling joists, will carry well.

Run backing in the attic

Least visible option, but most challenging due to attic work
Use a 2x4 oriented vertically (like the ceiling joists) between the trusses
Anchor with substantial lag screws and also consider laying another board across the top of everything, connecting that with lags or 3" construction screws
Locate the eye bolt carefully so you're anchored well

Span between two eye bolts with chain

Probably the simplest and quickest option, but most likely to cause issued in your drywall such as nearby screw pops since it puts the most lateral stress on the ceiling joists
To reduce lateral force which could bend or move your eye bolts (potentially shifting the ceiling joists), run your chain or cable down far enough so you have an angle less than 45 degrees to vertical, and consider using a rigid bar between the chains near the ceiling to direct force to vertical
Hang on both chains with an S-hook or proper carabiner (not a novelty item)


Problem encountered with installing an exterior light This will likely be an easy question for an electrician if one is reading because I cannot believe that I invented this issue but it requires a bit of set-up.

I want to attach an exterior light to the gable of my detached, one-car garage. Here is the outside view of the gable where the light would go.

The kind of light probably does not matter but, for the record, it is a gooseneck style “barn light.” As a matter of fact, it is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YPC57H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought the light based on style, appearance and good user ratings without too much thought about installation. I like it. It is clearly not cheaply made as so many light fixtures seem to be.

The mounting plate (I think the correct term might be “canopy”) of this light is not the dome shape you so often see in light fixtures. Instead, it is relatively flat. Not completely flat. It has a recess on the back (the gable side) of about 3/16” as you can see in this picture.

Now, you might think this would be simple. Just cut a hole in the gable siding where I want the fixture to go and mount an electrical box directly opposite inside the garage.

But, it turns out that inside the garage there is a 2x4 support installed at the exact midpoint of the gable, as you can see in this picture.

Naturally, I want to install the light at the exact midpoint of the gable, so I have a problem. Because, as I understand it, the NEC requires the wiring to terminate inside a box, which I cannot install directly behind the light mounting plate (canopy) because the 2x4 will be in the way.

As I see it, there are two possible solutions:

One is to use a hole saw to cut the appropriate size of hole in the siding ONLY (not cutting into the 2x4 support behind), then mount a half-inch pan (or is it pancake?) box to the 2x4 on the outside (gable side), then run the cable through a knock-out that’s off-centered to avoid the 2x4. The hope here is that the half-inch pan box plus the 3/16” recess on the mounting plate (canopy) will be enough to allow the mounting plate (canopy) to sit flush against the siding. Remains to be seen.

Or ...

A second option would be to drill a hole in the siding on the outside (gable side) directly to the left (as seen from inside the garage) of where the 2x4 lies sufficient to run the light fixture wiring through (not the NM-B cable) and then mount an electrical box inside the garage along the left side of the 2x4 at that same point to join up the light wiring and NM-B. This seems to me to be the preferable option.

A possible issue with both solutions is that I might have a problem snaking the light fixture wiring (not the 12-2 or 14-2 NM-B electrical cable -- I mean the wires included with the light) around the 2x4 (at almost a 90-degree angle) to get them to the electrical box. Because, remember, the mounting plate (canopy) will be directly centered over that 2x4, which actually is 2x4 (1942 construction). But those wires are a lot skinnier and more flexible than the NM-B so I think I can do it.

My questions: How would you do it? Do you see any problems or code violations here? Is there a reason to prefer one solution over another? And if I do have difficulty getting the light fixture wires past that 2x4 to get them to the electrical box would it be OK to notch a little bit of wood out of the 2x4 to scoot past it to reach the electrical box?

Sorry to be so long winded but wanted to touch all relevant bases. Of course, I could just hire an electrician but I feel like I ought to be able to do this. If you have read to this point, you have my thanks, and if you have any thoughts to share I would be grateful.

Pete

I would double-up (or even quadruple-up) with additional timber each side of that vertical support, bolted through top and bottom, then you can recess a mounting box into the stud and drill through to the inside for the cable, without affecting structural strength. You'll need a competent builder to confirm the timber strength and loading required.


Confusion regarding 2014 NEC I am having trouble trying to understand new code.

It says (or so I understand) that a GD, DW and refrigerator now be on AFCI and GFCI RECEPTACLES. Is GFCI required if those appliances (GD - DW) are hard-wired?

Does refrigerator need to be GFCI if it has a dedicated 15A duplex receptacle (surge protection) that is not readily accessible?

Microwave- Does it require GFCI if on a dedicated 20A AFCI breaker with simplex receptacle enclosed in a kitchen cabinet?

GFCI and AFCI receptacles must have really improved in dependability in the last few years.

Sorry, I did not make myself clear.

Not AFCI/GFCI receptacles themselves, but if the GD (disposal) and DW (dishwasher) are not powered though an appliance cord and receptacle, is GFCI protection on those circuits required (I understand the AFCI need)? I will hard-wire both components (GD and DW) as I have doubts as to having plug-ins under the sink cabinet and their possibly being hit and loosened or pulled entirely.

Also, does the dedicated 20A MW (microwave) circuit require GFCI if the receptacle is mounted in an upper cabinet (over MW and range):

...and is GFCI needed on a dedicated refrigerator 15A circuit, the receptacle being behind the refrigerator and non-accessible?

I guess what I am asking in short is if GFCI is needed on a GD and DW separate circuits if they are hard-wired with no dedicated receptacle(s) for them @ or under the sink cabinet and is GFCI needed on hidden dedicated appliance receptacles, these being separate from the SABC(s)? Neither appliance will have an accessible receptacle above or below the sink.

No, Code says nowhere that a receptacle-type AFCI or GFCI is required; breaker-type GFCIs and AFCIs are also usable whenever AFCI or GFCI protection is called for by the NEC or otherwise desirable.  In fact, circuit breaker manufacturers now offer a device that's both a GFCI and a CAFCI in the same package -- look for a DFCI (Dual-Function Circuit Interruptor) breaker.

As to your clarified question (cites from the 2014 NEC):

The refrigerator receptacle and the dedicated microwave receptacle do not require GFCI protection, as those receptacles are not installed to serve the kitchen countertop surfaces, and likely are more than 6' from the edge of your kitchen sink as well.

The DW circuit, however, does require a GFCI, even though it is hardwired, as per 210.8(D):

  (D) Kitchen Dishwasher Branch Circuit. GFCI protection shall be
  provided for outlets that supply dishwashers installed in dwelling unit
  locations.

Note the word "outlets" in this passage, vs. the use of the term "receptacles" in 210.8(A) -- in Code parlance, an "outlet" is a place where power is tapped from a circuit to serve a utilization device, whether it be a hardwired device, a luminaire, or a cord-and-plug connected device, while a "receptacle" is what you plug cords into.

The disposal does not require GFCI protection either, unless its receptacle is within six feet of the top inside edge of the sink bowl "as the cord flies". (In other words, the receptacle, while not covered by 210.8(A) point 6, may fall under 210.8(A) point 7.)


Whirpool ice maker overflow The icemaker in my whirlpool Wsf26c2exf01 is overflowing. The water reaches the icemaker fine but it spills into the ice bucket and leaks out of the unit. The only way to stop it is turning off the water at the pipe, it continues to flow even with the icemaker switch in off position, it will flow with the door closed(door closed switch compressed). I would appreciate any suggestions on what to test for next or how to go about completing a repair.

Please let me know if I can provide any additional information.

Here is a link to the video
https://youtu.be/n24eGizrAlw

It sounds like the water controll solenoid has something stuck in it allowing the water to flow. These solenoids are normally closed and require power to open. It is possible a small piece of pipe scale is holding the valve open. It is also possible that there is a failed component on the controll board but that is doubtful because it is running with the switch in the off position. With the unit unplugged and the water turned off dissembling the valve and cleaning it may clear up the problem but a new solenoid valve may be required.


Adding a Sub-Panel to 3-Phase Main So our building has 3, 3 Phase 200A 120/208 I-T-E Indoor Load Centers, each on their own meter.  Originally the building was built for 3 suites, 3 tenants.  We have the entire building, so we have all 3 interior panels.

One of those panels (Panel B) has a 50A double-pole circuit leading to a 60A switch which has two 50A fuses.  That circuit powers a 19" Rack Mount Leviton DS-8 Lighting dimmer with 2400W per channel and 8 channels running on 208V as required.

The project at hand is to move this setup to one of the other panels (Panel A), relocating the entire lighting dimmer pack altogether, and capping off the previous setup.

PROBLEM: Panel A is full, but I found that one of the 30A double pole breakers is switched off, and in fact disconnected from anything.  So, we have open real estate in Panel A.

But, we need more, so I'm thinking sub-panel, approximately 36 feet from main panel A.

Question 1:  Is this a viable plan?

Remove the 30A breakers and replace them with 100A breakers.  If I'm not mistaken, and I haven't tested it yet, we would be sending 208V to the sub-panel, not 240V.
Feed two hot leads, one ground, and one neutral through 1 1/4" conduit to a surface mount 125A sub-panel from the 100A breakers in panel A.
Ensure ground and neutral are isolated from each other in sub-panel.
Install two 50A breakers to feed the 60A fused switch with 50A Fuses.
Mount the 60A switch next to the sub-panel and connect it to the lighting dimmer.
Install one or more 120V 20A breakers for server / sound equipment needs in sub-panel, etc.

Question2:  There will be 4 wires feeding the sub-panel.  What are the minimum gauges that would need to be run for a 36' distance at 100A, 208V?

Thanks for your insight.

Yeah, that plan seems fine. Three #1Al THHN wires should get the job done, and will fit comfortably in 1-1/4" EMT pipe.  You don't need a ground wire in EMT, IMC or rigid conduit.

You sometimes hear of neutrals being downsized compared to the hots.  You  can't generally do that with feeders, but especially, you can't do it when pulling 2 of 3 phases of 3-phase "wye".  Here, neutral does not handle only differential current, and it gets a real workout - neutral flow can be as much as the hots. (but not more).


Can I use a drywall anchor in a stud to hang a shower curtain rod? I am hanging a curved shower curtain rod to replace a spring loaded/standard curtain rod. The rod came with drywall anchors (3 each side) and I started drilling the holes for the anchors.  First hole, no problem, 2nd and 3rd holes appear to have hit a stud (much more resistance and wood chips).  As you can probably tell I am very much a novice with home repairs, and my question is can I use the drywall anchors in the stud?  I was able to get one anchor to easily fit in the first hole, but I can't get them in the other two holes even though they were made with the same drill bit.  Any suggestions?  Can I use wood screws for the 2 stud holes and keep the drywall anchor for the other?  Can I make the stud holes larger to fit the drywall anchor?

The three holes are in a triangle shape: 2 at the top about an inch apart and the 3rd below about an inch in between the top holes.

Wood screws directly into a stud are going to be many times stronger then drywall anchors.  When you have hit a stud, use a screw.  When you are just in the drywall, use a drywall anchor.

Drilling out the strong wood to replace with weak plastic doesn't make any sense.

If you really wanted to just use anchors, they make metal anchors that can be driven into a stud but the description of them is:

  No pre-drilling necessary - drills directly into drywall even if you hit a wood stud. Starts easier than other self-drilling drywall anchors.

I emphasized the word even.

(source: easyanchors.com)


A closed breaker has some voltage going through - how is that possible? Some background first: I have a single-phase system (220V). I installed an RCBO direct from the external supply and then the output from that went into the main breaker panel outside the house.

I seem to have some leakage somewhere in the house, which kept tripping the RCBO. There's another RCBO built into the subpanel inside the house and that doesn't trip, so I went back to the installation of the new RCBO.

The manual says to wire the hot/live cable to the live RCBO input and the neutral cable must first go to the neutral block on the panel and then from there to the neutral RCBO input. Each subpanel has its own ground, so I only link the ground and neutral blocks on the main panel.

This alternative installation doesn't make sense to me, but if that's what the installation pamphlet says then I won't argue. The RCBO still trips - so that didn't solve that problem.

However, now I have a new problem. If I switch on one of the breakers, I get the normal 220V going through that breaker.

BUT NOW I'M GETTING ABOUT 2V-6V COMING FROM THE OUTPUT OF THE NEIGHBORING BREAKERS EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE OFF! Why is this happening???

(It may be that this was the case beforehand and I just didn't notice. Could ALL the breakers be faulty? Or could it be some weird wiring with the main breaker that's the cause of it - maybe connecting the cables into the wrong ends?)

A related problem is that there's 220V going to ground when one of the breakers is on. I think that's normal. But the electrician has probably connected the earth to the pole carrying the cables from the grid. It's a metal pole sticking out of the ground - and registers 220V. Is that normal? Is that safe!???

I'm tearing my hair out. And I've called in 3 electricians already, but we live in Thailand where just about anybody can call themselves an electrician. They don't seem to know much more about installations (and RCBOs) than I do (which isn't all that much).

Any ideas? Please help!

The 2-6 volts is not leakage, it's being induced - picked up like an antenna from adjacent conductors which are hot. You're only seeing it because your DVM is very sensitive.  If you put any kind of load on it, even a night light, the voltage will disappear because there's no force behind it.  I've built passive AM radios that work on this principle, the airwaves itself powering a very tiny, delicate earpiece, doesn't work with heavier headphones.

RCBO, we call them GFCI in America, because they detect "ground faults".   They work like this.

In the drawing, tying the RCBO's incoming AND outgoing neutral to your panel is a complete fiasco, because it gives neutral current a path around the RCBO, which utterly defeats the purpose.  Here is how that will trip unnecessarily.

The smaller RCBO in your diagram is "less wrong" but still problematic, as neutral can go down the ground tie to your neighbor's ground tie, into his panel and back to the transformer that way.   Assuming you share a transformer.   And even worse, the ground bus is tied to the neutral output of the RCBO, which means the RCBO can't see actual ground faults.

You should have TWO neutrals - the rough-and-tumble base neutral prior to the RCBO, and the protected neutral after the RCBO, which serves the exact same circuits as the RCBO hots with no exceptions.  IE something like this.  (note that chaining RCBOs like this is purposeless and I assume you're doing it because of the panels you are stuck with.)  I shaded the protected area blue, note the ground is outside of it!

And of course, the safety ground is also run to every outlet - that is the third wire.  The safety ground must be tied to neutral before the RCBO - if it is tied downstream of an RCBO, then the RCBO won't be aware of ground faults. Fault current must bypass the RBCO.

This thing looks odd, because we're mixing European and American paradigms... Thailand.  Having a whole-house RBCO is a European concept.  In America you use individual GFCI breakers on certain circuits and not others - as a result, a trip will not plunge you into darkness or leave you a fridge full of spoiled food.

And lastly, I suspect you have a ground fault somewhere in the house - perhaps that's why you hooked up the RCBOs wrong (in the drawing) - because if you hook them up right, they trip.  Well, they're supposed to trip.

Seeing 220V on your ground line is not right, unless you are measuring improperly somehow. That indicates a condition that the breaker or RCBO should be tripping on.


Can I run a copper pipe for water in an exterior wall without it freezing in the winter? I would like to install a new hose bib on the exterior wall of my house, to be accessed on the deck.  Currently, there is a hose bib on the lower level (underneath the deck) straight down from where I would like to put this new one.  Is there a risk of a pipe this length freezing in the winter, if it is in the middle of the insulated exterior wall?  Should I use extra pipe insulation to prevent it from freezing, or with it being in a wall with insulation be enough?  I'm in Virginia, so it doesnt get that cold, but it does freeze.

Use a frost-proof sillcock.  It will shut off the water 12 inches into the wall (which is probably on the inside of the wall for you), and the water on the outside of the shutoff will drain as long as there is no hose attached.


Potential issues with adding a 90° bend to shower waste? Are there any potential issues with putting a 90° bend straight from a shower drain into a 50mm waste pipe? It then falls 10mm over a 1m span into a waste manifold.

Connecting an elbow directly to the shower strainer is not a problem, 2" hopefully.  Use as long of radius bend as you can. Keep a good slop in the drain line. Shower drains only handle water and not very much at a time. They rarely clog.


What is the best tool to grind down a smaller metal rod? I am building this workbench and I have decided to recess the nut and washer inside the top of the bench, so that I won't cut/scape myself while I'm leaning up against it.

Now my issue is that the rod is sticking out with sharp edges and needs to be ground down to stay inside the 1" recess I bore in.

My question is, what is the best tool (preferably a Dremel bit) to grind down this 3/8" metal rod.  The most I'd need to grind is about 1/2" of length.

I was at the hardware store and someone recommended a diamond coated bit used to grind stone, but it didn't do anything for the metal.

Attached is a picture of what I am doing.  Forgive the roughness, I still haven't sanded/beveled the edges.

You can use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut off a piece of the rod but you may have to remove the rod to do this.  You can use Dremel grinding wheels to grind down the end of the rod.  If the rod is not protruding out of the hole, you could use a wooden plug to seal off the hole.  Sand the plug flush with the bench top.


How to run electircal wire underground? Possible Duplicate:
  How do I run a wire underground to an outdoor post lamp?

I need to run power to an automatic gate operator at the entrance to my driveway. I have 2 questions:

1) What type of conduit do I need to use underground?

2) And how deep should I bury the line?

you need conduit rated for outdoor use. It's typically PVC, gray in color, and is UV rated (so it doesn't break down in sunlight)
check local electrical codes to be certain (though I think 18" is typical)


Wire Line to GFCI Switch Combo to Outlet I currently have a 12/3 Line providing power to a paddle switch that then provides power to an outlet where the pull tab has been removed. I would like to add a GFCI switch combo to replace the regular switch and provide power to the outlet.
The outlet currently powers my dishwasher and garbage disposal. The wires I have are currently setup to have the black line power the bottom outlet for the disposal and the red wire (that bypasses the switch) to power the top outlet for constant power to the dishwasher.
Any ideas on how to properly achieve this?

Install a 2-pole GFCI breaker in the panel
This is what's called a multi-wire branch circuit or MWBC.  It is 2 sub-circuits fed off separate breakers. These 2 breakers are handle-tied because that is a safety requirement for MWBCs.  That is also why neutral is pigtailed.
The split receptacle is a very typical use of an MWBC to deliver 2 sub-circuits to one recep.  The switching is a neat trick.
The only way you can make this setup GFCI is to install a 2-pole GFCI breaker in the panel.  Individual GFCI devices will not work because there isn't space for them.
Note that your current breakers are half-width (we call 'em "double-stuff") and that means you will need to find some more space in your panel. There's no such thing as a half-width GFCI breaker.

However, if you are able to run new cable between the switch and receptacle, and are able to blow out the under-sink receptacle into a 2-gang, then you could fit a GFCI+switch device in the current switch location, and a plain recep and GFCI downstairs.  use either 2 cables or /2/2 cable; mark one of the cables' wires purple and gray (gray=neutral), and the other hot wire red.

In the under-sink box, red+white land on a GFCI receptacle that powers the dishwasher.  Purple+gray land on a plain receptacle that powers the disposal.
In the switch box, Red + white wire as before. Black+white go to the LINE side of the GFCI+switch.
Purple to one of the switch pigtails. The other switch pigtail to LOAD hot.  Gray to the LOAD neutral of the GFCI+switch.

The key to it is the separate neutrals past the first GFCI. That's why you can't do it with cables as-installed except by using a 2-pole GFCI breaker.


ivy growing between sliding glass door frame On the ground floor of my house, I have a sliding glass door. A small stalk of ivy has grown through the caulk (or other sealant?) between the frame/wall of the house and the frame of the sliding glass door.

What's the best way to repair this?

Current thinking:

Immediately cut the ivy so it doesn't widen further. Trim back the ivy so other strands don't invade the house.
Wait for the ivy to die off, then remove the ivy from the gap.
Caulk in the hole

What criteria are best to determine how to repair the hole/gap leading out of the house?

Having a picture would be good. If ivy is growing there, it means it is getting water somehow, which is bad. Just cutting the visible part will not fix the critical problem, which is the water supply.

When ivy grows it creates a thick mat of small roots and veins that make sort of a carpet in the floor of the area. This mat has to receive water for the ivy to grow. You need to find the root mat the ivy is growing out of, and remove it. Then you need to clean away the dirt there. Also, you need to figure out how it was getting water in the first place and change the drainage around your house so that water is not being fed to that area.


DIY help needed with circuit breakers I'm fixing up a bathroom, and have run into a  couple of puzzles.
In removing a ceiling light fixture, I  had a short. (Yes,I'd left the power on.  Tsk, Tsk.)
Now I get no current at the wires; no breakers tripped, switch on or off.
Breakers are ~40 years old. Would a short "kill" a breaker without tripping it?
Also, (similar problem, power on, and spark) with a GFCI, same result: no power, breaker not tripped. I deduced I'd ruined the GFCI breaker, so bought a matching brand CAFCI, and installed it. Now I have no power with breaker energized. What am I missing? I am about ready to admit that I am no longer qualified for home electrical work. Does anyone have answers for me, besides cutting the power before my next attempt?

A visual inspection of a tripped residential breaker is not likely to reveal that it has tripped.  Tripping happens internally and does not usually move the lever visibly.

Instead, feel the breaker handles by giving each lever a slight nudge toward the "off" position.  Those that are "on" will resist being moved.  A tripped breaker lever will easily move.   To reset it, turn it all the way "off" and then "on".


Valve left shut by accident in forced hot water system Due to a cold house I went down to investigate my forced hot water / oil burner system. I discovered that apparently when my indirect water heater was being replaced three months ago the plumber left shut a valve. This is the valve right after the house circulator. So, the furnace must have been coming on, heating up, then stopping because no water was circulating.

Could this have damaged the circulator?

Yes, it could.  It's good that some protection switch/interlock was saving you from extensive damage, so that may have saved you.

What normally happens is the pump/circulator transfers the electrical energy to rotating mechanical energy which is then absorbed into the water and life is good.  However, in your case where you were dead-heading on the valve, the water couldn't dissipate the energy transferred to the water via circulation so it builds up in a thermal manner, so the pump/circulator could have burned up.

Depending on what kind of pump/circulator you have, if you run it and it sounds like there are loose parts ("marbles") during operation, then you've killed it.  Otherwise, you may have shortened the life of the pump/circulator, or you got lucky and the interlock that protected you from operating in a dead-head case caught you before you damaged the pump.


Can I repurpose existing cat5 telephone line for Ethernet networking? We recently moved into a house where there is cat5e wiring running from a telephone jack in each room, to the rear of the house near the phone junction box and electrical box.  The wires are literally just hanging out of a sealed exit point in the siding of the house, not running into a box of any kind.

I wanted to set up a new wired network connection from an upstairs bedroom to the living room.  New wiring installation is virtually out of the question, thanks to insulation, fire blocks all over the place, and the fact that the wife and I both don't want to mess up the drywall in our new home.  So I have chosen to repurpose two of the cat5e wiring runs into one connection, by splicing the two appropriate wires together out back.  I wired up a cat5e jack using punchdown connectors both in the living room and in the upstairs office, and just hand-spliced the wires together out back and tried to weatherproof them by passing the splice into a weatherproof cable box and securing them with strong electrical tape.  They are untwisted for about 3-4 inches and are sharply angled at the splice point.  I know it's not optimal but I wanted to at least see if what I was after was even possible given the unknowns of the wiring, etc.

Upon testing, I can get a solid connection over the line, so I know I've done the wiring correctly (used T568A due to the fact that these are originally phone lines and might be again one day).  However, tests show that my download speed from my computer, connected to the router upstairs, to a laptop in the living room is only around 23 mbps, so I'm barely even getting fast ethernet speeds.  I'm hardly expecting gigabit, with run lengths and connections like this, but what can I do at this point to increase throughput?  There are factors I know I can control (how the splicing is done out back) but I don't know how much of a difference that will make.  Then there are some variables like proximity to 110V lines in the walls, and quality of cable (it's all UTP) that are either unknowns or out of my control.  I do know that the wires out back are fairly brittle, due to weathering, which is part of the reason I didn't want to poke around with those much.  Does anything stand out as a glaring issue to anyone experienced with cat5/6 networking?

I think you may be suspecting that the existing telephone wiring is CAT5 cable when in fact it may not be CAT5 at all. Four pair telephone wire can look a lot like CAT5 cable when in fact it is constructed in a different manner. The wire gauge may be different and the characteristic impedance of the cable may be different. Also note that cable specified for data comm such as Ethernet have special twist specifications for each pair in the cable that are different from one another.

Very short run Ethernet over improper cable can be made to work but when you start talking about trying to send the signals over a respectable distance then factors such as wire gauge, characteristic impedance and elimination of impedance discontinuity on the wire run can play a huge role in the success of the connection. I can say with pretty good assurance that the use of the twisted splices that you described making are certain to represent a nasty impedance discontinuity in the cable run. These can cause signal reflections in the cable can result in significant loss of signal strength and quality at the receiving end of the cable. Remember that 100 MBit Ethernet is an RF signal and the attributes that I mention for the transmission line need to be good quality and to design specifications for it to work properly.


What can I do about a toilet drain pipe that is too high above the floor? My toilet drain pipe protrudes about 1/3" above the floor, and  makes the toilet wobbly. What can I do to fix this?

Assuming the flange is sound (it looks pretty worn and rusted), you might try to create a ceramic tile platform that would lift the bowl to be flush on both the flange and the floor.  You are right that a lifted flange is a problem because the wobbling will eventually break the wax seal and allow leakage and smells, to say nothing of making the user uncomfortable.

It looks like you have some type of vinyl flooring under the bowl now.  if that is the case, you could work out a tile layout, at least a bit wider than the footprint of the bowl, then trim the vinyl just ouside of the new tile boundary. Remove the vinyl and affix the ceramic tile to the subfloor.  You may want to use a tile membrane base over the subfloor and under the tile for better adhesion and water resistance.

Obviously, you need to find a tile that will be just high enough with the vinyl removed and allowing for the membrane (if you use it) and a bit of tile adhesive. After the tile is set and dried, you can seal the the new tile platform to the rest of the vinyl flooring with a good quality caulk or silicone sealant.

If the flange is not solid (and the bowl is bolted to the flange), it needs to be replaced, usually a job needing professional help.


How to cover old Red Dot outdoor outlet for constant use? Here's the current outlet.
I need to leave a cable connected constantly.
Is there a snap-on cover for this type of thing?
(Can I gaff tape a quart baggie over it?)
tia...

I think mark f has already answered your question well.  I just wanted to add some photos from a similar project I did last year in case these are helpful to you.
I installed a weatherproof cover and box to replace the old ones that supplied my above-ground pool.  Fair warning: don't do this at your own pool because my installation was deficient in several ways; but I bought the house with some problems already existing, and I just needed to make a repair and add GFCI for my own comfort; my city didn't care.
Anyway, first picture is what the box looked like with a couple duplex receptacles in it.  Hopefully, you won't need a new box; but if you do, they come with plenty of plugs and conduit bushings.

I prepared the wiring in my garage:

Then I have the parts that came with the cover; that's the cover itself plus a gasket that makes it watertight.

Here's what the box looks like with the gasket fitted:

And now with the cover attached using four mounting screws:

What it looks like when closed:

Finished, with a cord plugged in:

I hope this helps!


Cutting large diameter threads I have an extensive tap & die set, but they're mainly designed for common bolt sizes.

The threads I need to cut are in (and on) metal and/or plastic pipes, or tubes; ranging between ∅49-89mm.

What's the proper way to cut these kinds of threads?

An exceptionally brief search for "pipe threader" revealed many options. Hand sets for under $100, powered models are available at most tool rental places.

PVC and ABS pipe is typically glued (ok, solvent welded) together. Threading typical schedule 40 plastic will probably weaken it enough that you may as well just push the joints together.


How do I mount this box without drilling or damaging the shelf? I bought a network switch that I'd like to hang on the underside of a shelf immediately above my desk. The designers of the switch provides two screw holes on the underside of the box to mount it. Like this; I don't know what this is officially called:

I'd like to avoid having to permanently mar my shelves in the event I want to reorganize. This leaves mounting tape as an option, but between the weight of the box and the cables pulling down, I'm concerned that the strength of tape/adhesive that I'd need would destroy the finish of the (particleboard) shelf if I have to remove it. Are there any adhesives or ways to mount this box (perhaps a plastic piece that has a screwhead shape that sits flush on the shelf?) that come to mind? I want to avoid finding out the hard way.

Thanks in advance.

edit: Here's pictures of the switch and shelf:

I'd like to mount it upside down between the two posts.

You could try these heavy-duty mounting squares

They're rated for up to 1 lb.  According to the specs, your switch weighs 0.6 lbs.

It will fall every time someone trips over a cord, but that is preferable to the whole shelf coming down like with a screw or zip-tie.


What can/should I do to tidy up after removing a section of baseboard? I'm installing a murphy bed. To get it flush with the wall, I've removed a section of baseboard. The gap where the baseboard has been removed looks pretty messy now.

I'm not too worried about it because, of course, the bed is going in this space and I don't expect it will be very visible most of the time. When the bed is up, it'll be completely covered; when the bed is down, I assume the mattress and bed frame and everything will obscure things. Still...

I'm just wondering what others would do in my shoes. I don't really need this to look immaculate, but is there some way to tidy things a bit, e.g. fill in the gap or cover it with something?

How about using a piece of thin vinyl base molding?


Leaking from roof between a one-story sun room and main structure After a big wind and rain,  today I found that it is leaking from the roof at the seam between this one-story sun room and the two-story main structure. This is the first time it leaked at this location since I moved here two years ago. However, there may have been temporary fixes, as a crack in the paint can be seen in the second picture.
Should I call a handyman or the company that installed our new roof two years ago? I suspect that the flashing between the sun room roof and the neighboring wall is broken.

If there are signs of past water damage I would recommend opening the wall from the inside just below the leak to attempt to determine where the water is entering. Drywall repair is cheap versus the problems of moisture in the wall long term.
I just had a similar situation with damp drywall in a ceiling corner. In opening the wall there was a leak from flashing that wasn't properly installed that had been going on for years. The top double plates, the king stud along a window and the rafter base were all rotted away. It had been leaking for years without soaking through the drywall.
I would cut out just enough drywall to inspect the framing and roof area from the interior. Look at the framing members for any sign of moisture present or past. Water leaks sometime do strange things traveling along rafters, etc. before it becomes evident. As you get in there you may have to take out additional drywall as you track the leak.
Calling the roofers who did the installing is a good first step but until you determine the source any solution is only an educated guess.
Edit
As I said in comments: These leaks are usually easier to diagnose from the interior if you have possible access through drywall. If not, obviously, have the roofer check areas of the roof above the leak - even on the other side of the chimney chase. This is often a common problem area.


What miter and bevel angle do I need for coping 38/52 crown molding? I'm trying my hand at coping crown molding.  I cut a couple of test pieces to try it out but it's not working very well.  My first attempt was cutting the miter 45°, that didn't work, the angle was too steep.  Then I tried cutting it at 38°, closer but the bottom is open.  What am I doing wrong?  Is the bevel important?

Cutting on the flat:

If you are cutting on the flat there are lots of mitre/bevel charts online like this one:

Cutting Nested:

Have you tried nesting your crown?

Hold the crown at the angle it would be on the wall, and just do a normal mitre (no need to worry about bevel).

This is how I prefer to cut it, but everyone has their preferences. You can buy different stops and clamps for setting this up to be quick and accurate (or make your own jig). As well as most saws nowadays have attachments for their saws for this.

Attachment:

V.S. Shop-made:


Thermostat won't always start heater on its own I have a gas furnace that seems to work fine; it keeps the house warm when things are running as expected. Sometimes, however, we'll notice the house is getting cold.

The temperature on the thermostat is set to 68., When we check the temperature reading on the thermostat, it could be as low as 64. Normally, the heater would have kicked on well before that, so we change the thermostat from "Heat" to "Off" then back to "Heat" and the heat turns on immediately.

This makes us think that it's something with the thermostat itself, but it's quite the nuisance at night. It did this a couple of times last winter, and has been happening much more this year. We've noticed no problems during the summer with it turning on the AC.

You need to preform a test that will tell you if the thermostat is bad or is the problem in the furnace.  If you can find a time when the t-stst is calling for heat and the furnace is not responding, at the furnace check to see if you have 24-volts on the white lead coming back from the t-stat.  If you do, the problem is in the furnace.  If not, the problem is in the thermostat.  These thermostats are mass produced with an emphasis on mass part.  They do fail.


How can I check my generator to see if its ok? I let a friend of mine use a 6500 watt generator that ran my house great, when he brought it back he said it was getting hot and stalling but could run 110 plug. He blew up lots of appliances, how can I make sure its ok to use in my home now?

You don't use it "in" your home so that solves the most direct safety bit. Then you avoid ever loaning that friend your tools ever again, since he both doesn't treat them right and is dishonest about it or he just doesn't know any better, either way it equals abused broken equipment.(Its very common.) I don't see how it could damage a stove other than severely voltage spiking the electronic controller bits in a very modern stove, but even those are generally tolerant of brownouts and small over voltages and none of it cares much about frequency.
Home stoves are most commonly on 50amp 240v circuits 50*240=12Kw I know my typical range the bake element is 2400w the broiler another 2400, small burners on high about 1500 and the large coils are about 2000-2200 which adds up past 6500 very fast.

Have a small engine shop check and tune the engine, fuel system, governor and such, or do it your self if you have the skill and tools.(this doesn't address the alternator half but with the exhaust being so hot it could be engine related)

Electrically: does it have a circuit breaker or fuses that need attention? Beyond that faults could be from burning the windings enamel insulation, brushes if it has mechanical brushes, shorting or high resistance(or both)caused by moisture or corrosion(rain, fog, damp storage, etc).
All you can really do without significant electrical training is to get it running and check the voltage unloaded, and then again while loaded (with a known calculated load, preferably resistive, not a motor) the standard range is 115-125v and 230-250v. I don't know the details of the that generator's windings, if it is 240 with a transformer for 120 or true 2 phase 120/240, or split phase just like mains power. In split phase neutral is attached to the center of the 240v windings to get 120v.

And if your multimeter has frequency and power factor options or you have a friend with an oscilloscope check that it is maintaining close to 60hz(56-64 ish loaded and unloaded) and that the power factor is above .95 while powering a pure resistive load.(a simple heater or 2 large stove elements)

Lastly as a safety note be very careful doing this with a cheap multimeter the sub $50 jobbers don't have correct fusing(despite the self "certification" on the label) the also don't inspire confidence in the tested value and won't read the true RMS power.


Can I replace hydronic water boiler return pipes with pex? My house was built in the 1920s, the heating source was a hot water/radiator system. Originally the basement was probably used only for a coal furnace (we have the drop-off door that the coal guy used to deliver through). We are looking at putting the basement to use and one of the major issues is the presence of 2" pipes for supply and return to/from the now-gas furnace. The supply and the return are not the same pipe. These pipes drop down from the ceiling and slope towards the furnace. Because these pipes aren't running through the joist bays and because of their downward slope, they can be as low as 6' from the basement floor surface.

The pipes are probably steel or cast iron (they're really thick, so unlikely to be copper).

I'm wondering if anyone has replaced their basement hydronic piping with something like PEX, and if so what was the required slope back to the boiler?

Edit: Based on comments from @SteveSh the slope was probably due to this system being steam originally. It must have been retrofitted a while back to use hot water instead. The slope is now not as important, but I'm still interested in hearing if people have replaced their hot water pipes with PEX. Any challenges that come up with that type of work?

Here in Italy pex is widely used for new heating system (both radiators and underfloor), just check the maximum allowed temperature is high enough (I'd say over 120°C) and you could use it for both flow and return. The story is different if your heating is steam.

The slope could be there because originally it was naturally-circulated hot water (hot water) system with no pump, only the (relatively low) specific gravity of hot water 'moviing' the system.

In my opinion, if your new boiler have a circulating pump, you could hide your pipes anywhere and replace them with PEX


Help understanding Window anatomy I'm renovating my basement, which has one double-hung vinyl window (pictured). I want to add one more on the same wall and trying to get a close match. The windows in this house were replaced in 2007 (manufacturer is Vista).

My question is with the frame around the window, which I assume is from the original construction of the house (1991). I see it is on a window sill, with some kind of frame integrated with it. What is that, do I need to buy that in addition to a new window?

I don't want to damage the siding on the outside of the house, so I was planning to buy a replacement window (not new construction).

Since the original window sash, and not the jamb, were replaced with a window replacement insert, to keep the look the same, you need to do some fabricating.

All this is dependent upon if you can find an exact replacement unit to match the one installed in 2007. The chance of that.... maybe. Window manufactures make changes to their product over time. Your window is possibly not in production anymore, but the next generation of window that carries the same size and some the details is what would now be available. Again, this is only a possibility.

What you will need to buy in addition, and this will be much, much more unlikely, is the wood window unit that matches the original one to the house when it was built in 1991. If you do, you would still need to throw away the operable sashes of that unit and install just the jamb. A big expense just to throw away a major part of it.

If it were me, I would get the materials to make a new wood jamb to match the one installed in 1991.

Construction details for wood window jambs are really quite basic construction. A tablesaw and miter box is all that is needed for tools along with drill and screwgun.
Priming everything before assembly would be essential.

The brick mold on the outside of the window may be the only other part difficult to match exactly. All are basically the same size, but there are minor detailing differences from one supplier to the next. Some folks don't worry over this too much since the differences are so small.


Replacing a doorbell transformer attached to power extension bar My doorbell transformer (picture attached) is determined to be dead because the output voltage is zero, while power socket voltage from the junction box is about 122. Thus, the doorbell transformer needs to be replaced or the wiring to the doorbell transformer needs to be taken care of.

Inside of junction box (after shutting down the power, of course) is shown below:

As we can see, the wires to the doorbell transformer are connected to the power socket panel. The connection is so firm that I can't pull the wires out. Is there any trick to disconnect the wires from the power panel so that I can replace the doorbell transformer? Or should I just replace the junction box and the doorbell transformer as a whole device?

Thanks in advance.

Do not replace the junction box.  It is a standard junction box and there is nothing wrong with it.

Backstab connections fail more often than transformers

Look at the receptacle.  See how the wires are connected?  They're "back wired" with a backstab style connection.  That is only allowed for 14 AWG solid wire, the receptacle's labeling plainly says

  PUSH IN #14 CU SOLID WIRE FOR 15A BRANCH CIRCUIT ONLY.

CU = copper.  It is then repeated in French.

Looking at the transformer's ground wire it definitely stranded wire that has been tinned with solder to keep it from getting a case of the frizzies. The ground wire has been horked onto the already-occupied ground screw in an impressive display of bad workmanship.

Equally bad workmanship is obvious in the attaching of the transformer wires to backstabs.  The wires are stranded and certainly not 14 AWG.  This is a violation of NEC 110.3 which requires the instructions and labeling of the receptacle be followed (14 AWG solid only).

Since backstabs have a spectacular failure rate (open circuit) even when they are used to spec, we should expect this to be a failed backstab.

So, I would remove the transformer wires from the backstab (if it's possible to do this while also facepalming), and move each wire to the appropriate screw terminal.    I would also pause to inspect the wire for any arcing or galling, because that would explain the mystery.

As far as actually removing the wires, there should be a little slot into which you can jab a tiny screwdriver, and sort of pry away from the wire and that should reduce the extraction force somewhat.  Otherwise feel free to just use an excessive amount of force. Worst case the wire will break off inside the backstab and you'll have to strip off another 1/4" to attach it to the screw.

When removing #14 wires, just twist the receptacle back and forth about 60 degrees repeatedly while using serious force.  Don't cut; wire length is precious in most cases.

While you're at it, fix the ground

The ground installation was acceptable until this transformer came along. Now it is one too many wires on that ground screw. Move the "U" loop on the receptacle screw so you have about 2" of extra length sticking out (instead of the 1/2" now sticking out). Wire-nut the transformer ground wire to that.


Room temp. sensing in a split AC unit I have a fairly typical "split" air conditioning unit ( LG 1 Ton Inverter Model JS-Q12ATXD, White) in my room.

The remote has a button which shows me the "Room Temp."

What I'm wondering is where it senses this at? Is there a thermocouple in the remote? Or in the indoor unit?

Any idea?

Usually in the indoor unit. They leave the fan on slow so that the sensor has air drawn across it.

Putting the sensor in the remote risks it being left on top of a TV, or in your hand, or another warm place. It could also be left somewhere out of range of the indoor unit.


How can I get the fireplace smoke smell out of my house? I recently got a new apartment with a wood burning fireplace. One of the first nights I had a fire and was sure to open the damper. After the fire was over, I went to bed but left the damper open. When I woke up I closed the damper. I went away for a few days and when I got back, my apartment smelt like smoke.

I opened the damper back up, cleaned the fireplace, cleaned the hardwood floors, cleaned ledges/countertops, and have a large air purifier running as well as ceiling fans. This has helped get rid of the smell, but it is still lingering in a few places. The flooring near the fireplace is hardwood. The carpeted flooring is far away and doesn't seem to contain the smell at all, so I didn't clean it. The ceilings are also very high. I can't seem to get rid of all of the smell.

How can I completely eliminate this smell?

If you can find the source of the smoke smell, you could try a chemical smoke remover like ZEP Smoke Odor Eliminator:  http://amzn.to/1DuEMww

If that doesn't work or you can't find the surface that is holding the smell (and hence cannot use a cleaner like that), then you'd likely need to treat the entire room with an ozone machine.  These are used by professional cleaners that rehabilitate structures that have suffered a fire.  They aren't cheap to buy, and I don't know if you can rent one.  See an example Ozone generator here:  http://bit.ly/1xAXiTM


Electric range burner functions erratically I have a Kenmore electric range, model 790.94344700. I don't know how old it is; it came with the house.

One of the 9" burners has been driving me insane. It's finicky to get to the temperature I want to begin with. It's a single, standard burner, not one of the power boil, simmer, or dual size burners. Frequently it will unexpectedly jump to high heat and incinerate whatever I was cooking, even though I obviously didn't set it to high heat. Sometimes it will not turn off even though I completely turned it off, and all I can really do is flip the breaker or keep rotating it back and forth to the off position until it turns off. I also noticed just now, while moving the unit to begin inspection, that the burner was slightly warm and I could see the element faintly glowing even though I haven't used the stove in many hours and it was turned off (the "in use" indicator was off as well), so that's awesome.

My guess is that the temperature regulator in the switch has sufficiently corroded or become fouled and thus sticks, or the switch is broken in some other way. However, I don't know for sure or how to verify this. I also don't know what parts to get or where to get it in terms of replacing it.

Any advice?

You may want to get an Appliance Repairer, they are worth it. Otherwise, you need to take stuff apart (with the breaker[s] off) just to know the right part to get. These are symptoms of a bad switch, it could be the $20 switch or the $90 switch... see


How can I reduce RF interference from LED light tubes? ? I picked up a dozen 3 bulb fixtures at the local habitat and installed them in my shop . Since the fixtures had no tubes I installed Sylvania Substitube LEDs . The lights work great , instant on and plenty of light . Only problem is , I have zero radio reception with the lights on . I have put ferrite filters on everything to no avail . My question is , can I eliminate the ballasts , possibly replacing them with LED Drivers ? Would that cure my woes? shop radio is a must have and I don't want to go incandescent.

You bought LED replacement "tubes" which are called plug-n-play and allow you to not mess with the ballast -- but also require you retain the ballast.  You are now married to the worst of both worlds: the EMI/RFI output of the legacy ballast, which could be considerable for a magnetic ballast, and also whatever EMI is coming from the new LED "tubes", which can also be considerable if they're cheap.

If you really want to go LED, you would be better off going with LED direct-wire replacement "tubes", and bypassing the ballast.   You may want to consult the Sylvania documentation and see if they are capable of also operating in direct-wire mode; some are dual-mode like that. Don't just give it a whirl.

Otherwise pull down your fixtures, see how they are wired (instant vs rapid start, 1 vs 2 wires per lamp end) and get direct-wire LED "tubes" which are compatible with your lamp wiring.  And bypass the ballast.  Be sure to consult the factory to learn what kind of EMI the LED "tubes" will be emitting if any.

Plan "B" is to find a quality ballast with known very low EMI, and change that ballast, then either try your LED "tubes" or just use real fluorescent tubes.  The light from them is superb these days, better than LED.

Plan "C" is that they make DC power supplies with the same formfactor as fluorescent ballasts.  I scored several hundred of them on eBay for nothin'.  Then get LED strips, two 5m rolls of 3528s should replace 3 fluorescent tubes, and cut them to fit in the fixture and power them off that DC supply.  Obviously, the EMI output of the power supply will be the ruling factor; DC LED strips have no EMI at all unless you dim them.

Lastly, check your grounding.  If your grounding is less than tip-top, it will greatly increase EMI.  If the grounding is not tip-top, make it so, remembering that Code now broadly allows retrofitting of just a ground wire.


Re-route HVAC around basement window? Working on my basement and this part of the HVAC covers the corner of that window. Can it be re-routed or reconfigured to fit around the window better? It connects to the kitchen upstairs.

You could get some flexible HVAC duct and install it up there. It's only for one register so it shouldn't affect the cooling or heating.


How to turn a pump on or off from any of 12 switches I have a water pump at my home that I want to connect to 12 switches, so that each one of them can turn the water-pump on/off. Can it be done?

Thank you!

Yes, the first switch in the circuit from the panel would be a three-way switch. The last switch in the circuit before the pump would also be a three-way switch. Then the other 10 switches would all be four-way switches.


vinyl plank flooring, entry way door trim question I am installing vinyl plank flooring. I am stuck at the door. The problem is that I have a gap (for expansion) that is near to entry door. I want to hide this gap as this looks ugly (see image attached).

Please suggest how I can hide this gap. Note this is entry way door. Any information will be really helpful.

Thank you

You installed your floor properly as long as it is maintaining the minimum gap at the door, but you needed also make room for a transition strip which requires about an inch of room from the door.

To include a transition strip I made my cut about 1 inch away from the surface where the transition strip was to go. Then the metal track that holds the transition strip in place still allow the 1/2 inch minimum required for the transition strip and the floor to work together. After setting the transition strip in place it cover the edge of the floor and kept the minimum requirements needed for they allow for the expansion and contraction. I included a few pictures to show what I have left.

Since there was no clean way in my eye to terminate the transition strip, I let it run from trim edge to trim edge as Illustrated one picture but since it blended in with the flow of the floor, it is not highlighted very well. I included another picture that I have not trimmed out yet

I do not have any pics of the process, but some of the space was too tight on some of the doors and needed to be cut in place. I used a multi-tool and a straight edge to do this but it can be done with a razor knife with much care and a straight edge. I also modified the transition strip to make it more narrow. I do not like transitions strips as it is, but the nature of the floor requires them


Recommend attachment for a drill/driver for drywall screws I know there exist special 'screw guns' which are used to install drywall sheets and ensure that the sheets won't be crushed when driving screws.
Do there exist special attachments which are installed in   drill/drivers that basically guarantee that screws won't run deeper?

Yes. Look for a Drywall Screw Setter Bit Tip. They work well.


Filling in drywall gaps I had to remove the panel for my shower to get at the pipes behind it. I cut a square around the panel in the drywall to take it out - now I need to fill in the gaps between the panel and the rest of the wall. I want to cut drywall to fill in the holes and then putty them together however I need a way to attach the drywall to the studs at the top, and the panel side on the right. Does anyone have any goods ideas on how to do this? Obviously I don't want to screw it in since it will show on the outside.

thanks,

First, know that drywall tape joints are actually quite strong. If you leave a 1/8" gap between panels so that joint compound can achieve full depth, there's little you need to do in that location. There will be virtually no pressure on it there.

I'd float some scrap lumber between the studs in the middle to reduce the span by half, and maybe at the upper left. 4" lengths of 1x2 or plywood will do.

You could also use the hemmed edge of a drywall sheet for even more strength. It doesn't look like the wall was furred out for the flange, so I'm not sure how things will fit, but doing so might benefit by it being a thinner piece.


Electricity consumption of a disconnected electricity socket When I put a radiation-tester near an electricity socket, with nothing connected to it, it shows a large amount of electric radiation - about 800 V/m (it starts beeping and saying that the radiation is "harmful" already at 40 V/m).

When I plug in a simple 4x multi-socket (again with nothing connected to it) the radiation grows beyond 2000 V/m, which is the maximum of the radiation-tester. Moreover, even at the wall about 1 meter above the multi-socket, there is about 1000 V/m radiation; 1 meter to the right there is 100 V/m radiation (in the other directions there is no radiation at this distance).

My questions are:

Why is the radiation so large if nothing is connected to the socket?
Does it waste electricity, and if so, how much?

First, understand that this "radiation meter" is a piece of junk that has no scientific basis for the numbers it is reporting. It is a device designed to scare you into buying "protective" equipment you do not need, and it is deliberately miscalibrated and  exaggerating wildly

There is certainly an electromagnetic field around any live wire, and a small amount of power is indeed lost when that field induces eddy currents in nearby conductors. That's so far below the amount of power used by anything you would actually plug in that it's effectively zero on the scale of what you're paying for, even when you consider the whole house rather than one outlet. But it is possible to pick it up with suitable equipment -- noncontact testers of several types are a standard tool in an electrician's kit -- and your meter is apparently picking up that signal but lying to you about how strong it is.


Why is GFCI Receptacle Tripping From Downstream Fluorescent LIght on Switch? I recently ran power to a small shed in my backyard.  I extended a 15amp circuit that was powering only a gate motor.  The #12 wire enters the shed and transitions to 14/2 Romex at a disconnect.  The circuit is very simple: it feeds a GFCI receptacle (first image) then passes to a single pole light switch (second image) that switches hot wire to a standard receptacle with a fluorescent shop light plugged in (third image).
Everything is wired properly and works fine, except the fluorescent shop light plugged into the standard receptacle at the end of the circuit causes the GFCI to trip when turned off (most of the time).  I have tried plugging the light directly to the GFCI with no problems.  I have tried replacing the shop light with a small 60 watt light with no problem. I have tried replacing the shop light with a small air compressor with no problem. It seems to be this shop light causing it to trip when plugged into an outlet downstream of the GFCI.  I'm at a loss on what to try.  Could it be a bad GFCI?  Why is it only this scenario causing it to trip?

Well, this is embarrassing, but hopefully it helps others in the same situation. I used an old 3-way switch I had lying around and I mistakenly connected the ground wire to the other switch terminal rather than the ground terminal. So when I switched it to the off position current was leaking to ground and tripping the GFCI.
I wired it correctly and it's all working as it should.


Can I safely use a switch rated for "1A at 125V" with 240V,  assuming I stay below 125W? I recently purchased a foot switch for a standing lamp. The switch is rated for 1A at 125V.

I would like to use this switch with a low energy lamp (typically 10W or below) but with a 240V supply. Is this safe?

Likely you cannot - the insulation rated for 125 volts might fail at higher voltage and this might lead to an arc starting and causing a short. Also the circuit breaking capacity might be not enough for higher voltage, this can cause an arc starting when turning the switch off and that can overheat the switch and set it on fire. I strongly advise against trying this.


How do I build an "internal frame" for a reclaimed wood door? I heard that doors like the one below are made with an internal frame, and then it receives the faces of reclaimed wood.

How is the frame constructed and how are the wood boards fastened to the frame? I tried to find some instructions or diagrams without success.

That's a hard thing to google. I can offer 2 possible approaches:

1.) I think you could do something like these doors with battens:
 You would have to turn the battens 90 degrees from the drawing since your facing boards are horizontal. The most important part would be the vertical battens on the left and right side. This would effectively form a frame with the top and bottom boards.

2.) If you want the frame to be truly internal, you could build a mortise-and-tenoned rectangular frame, and then apply facing boards to both sides. For more info on this, I would google "frame and panel doors". You could do the simple rectangle, like cabinet doors, and leave out the panel. This frame then  could be sandwhiched between layers of facing boards. If you don't feel like doing mortise and tenons, substitute loose tenons, biscuits, dowels joints, pocket screws, etc.

Either way, screws or nails should be fine for attaching the facing boards to the frame. If you use nails, hammer them in at slightly varying angles to prevent the boards from pulling straight out.

Also, leave a little space between the facing boards. Here in the US, I would use a dime as a spacer, but you could use a couple business cards, or a small drill bit, or measure a millimeter, etc. This allows the wood to expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes.


What size duct for make-up air? I have an industrial exhaust fan venting heat from the top of a stairwell. It is a CentriMaster ModelPRN PRN110 with specification sheet here: http://www.acmefan.com/InformationFiles/ModelInformation/OLDLiterature/ModelPRN.PDF
I'm installing a vent at the bottom of the stairs for make-up air, and have a question about the duct size.

From the 'dimension data' (p. 6), the fan ceiling cut is 16 x 16" (A), but it says "Duct size 10". Does this mean I should use a 10" duct for the make-up air, or a 16 x 16" square?

From the 'performance data' (p. 5), the PRN110 has RPMs 2477 through 4464 with CFM 600 through 1090 at .000", or CFM 578 at 1.000".

What are the inch rows in that table (i.e. .000", .125", etc.)?
How do I determine the RPM (what row of the table do I read)?
How do I determine the CFM (what column of the table do I read)?
Once I know the CFM when the fan is on, how do I know what size passive duct to install for the make-up air? It seems like just using an equal size duct (10" or 16x16") should be sufficient.

I'll be using an electric-open default-close damper tied to the same 120V thermostat that drives this fan.

You'd use a 10" duct that comes off of a plenum/metal box which is 16x16 to match the hole. You will find it... tricky... to try and attach a duct directly to an irregular surface like a ceiling, floor, wall, etc. (in other words, don't do that).

These are best answered by an HVAC technician running Manual S, T and D calculations after inspecting your system. The inch rows you ask about are static pressure  values based on your actual duct; you have to measure it with a manometer to get the location and value of static pressure, you will see these in inch values or inch WC values, typically.
Regarding which rows you read, I assume the PRN110 lets you choose which RPM setting to use, from 860 up to 1550 (the values you assigned to RPM in your question are actually the tip speed of the fan blades). Once you know what RPM you want to use, you know which row to read. Conversely, if you have an HVAC technician calculate the values on the right side of the table first, that will tell you what RPM you need to choose on the blower.


How can I mount a screen window to an old porch? Firstly, this is definitely a related question: How to install window screen without screen track
But the window from in that question is a bit different, and I don't quite see how the answer can be applied to my window.

I recently bought an older home (1920's) with a glass-windowed porch. These windows are not affixed with any sort of track; They are simply on hinges and swing inward.

They aren't great windows, but whatever, I don't intend to replace them anytime soon. Many bigger fish to fry and whatnot.
However, I do want to get some airflow through the porch, without pets escaping (or letting bugs in).

So far, I was planning to assemble and install a screen frame kit to each window like this one:
The big question here is, how can I mount this thing to my weird, simplistic, trackless porch frame? I don't care if the screen isn't generally able to be opened (apart from repair/cleaning of course). If I mount it into that inner area just outside of the red window (which seems best? It's a tad over 3/4" deep), I don't have any room for a bottom loop latch. Kinda seems like I need a "hacky" solution, which is probably fine, as long as it doesn't look terrible.

I'd say mount it on the outer part, like @JACK suggested. Otherwise you'll probably end up with some odd-looking custom bracket/track setup to accomplish what you're after.
Instead of the stud screw + wingnut combo though, they make screen clips that match the color and width of that screen kit you linked, which might look a little cleaner. Below is a plastic one (I only searched Home Depot though, so you may find metal ones elsewhere, if that's what you're looking for).

Screen Clip

It might be worth investing in stainless steel screws (I didn't see what material the included screws were, but I kinda doubt they're SS), but at $0.30 per clip it doesn't hurt to try.


Method for setting 6' wood fence posts in clay soil Background

Currently in the process if planning/designing a privacy fence after recently removing the old posts from the ground. I'm now at a point that you might call analysis paralysis involving determining the "best" method for setting my wood fence posts into the ground using a method that will, at least, not unnecessarily speed the deterioration of the wood posts.

Other posts

I of course have looked at this post and actually bought the recommended book, yet I'm still on the fence about what method to use. The fact this post is almost 10 years old also adds to my hesitation.

This post brings up a good point about water more or less osmoting, or trickling to the area of least resistance when using crushed gravel in a area of high clay content.

My plans

I'm in Columbus, OH, with fairly clay like soil. It will be a 6' privacy fence, generally half board on board pattern with the other half consisting of custom made 1x2's to form a lattice. It could potentially be a little on the heavier side as the lattice will be framed using PT 2x4 lumber.

here is an image of my design so far.

Posts will be buried at least 32" below grade (frost line), potentially deeper, using PT 4x4x10' posts, likely 6x6 posts when supporting gates.

My options

Concrete was the original plan until searches brought up the many disadvantages or anecdotes ranging from premature rot due to the porous concrete attracting water, wood shrinking and thereby letting water enter between the wood/concrete intersection, etc.

Some say that the 6" or so of gravel you throw at the bottom of the posthole is there to allow for the concrete to drain. Others say it will simply act as a low resistance refuge for water to collect.

Crushed gravel/paver base became the next plan as I saw many posts vouch for the strength of using this stuff over concrete, even comparing its holding strength to concrete. This would also allow for easy post removal/replacement also quite a bit cheaper. On the other hand, the gravel will be coarser than the clay/dirt around it and potentially also suffer from unnecessarily collecting water.

Dirt simply backfilling with the original dirt seems to simply be the easiest solution at this point and is what I'm now leaning towards doing. The original posts seemed not to suffer from unnecessarily fast rotting, and they were simply backfilled with dirt. Surveying the neighborhood fences (all quite old) shows they are all back filled with dirt.

Summary

I'm hoping for some new insights to point me in the right direction! Seems to be a simple topic that perhaps I'm overthinking. Maybe there are better methods I also have not mentioned? Perhaps the best method is simply concreting the very bottom 10" of the post hole and then backfilling with dirt?

It doesn't much matter.  The Simpson post base listed by @Dotes will work fine, but it's probably more expensive than just digging a hole and filling it with concrete.

Something like a Metpost just banged into the ground will probably be easiest to put up, but it is very hard to get the posts exactly vertical (by the time you have fitted the post, it is too late to adjust the angle of the spike).

A wooden post set in concrete will eventually rot, but it would last 20 years in the UK, and Ohio looks like it gets colder in the winter and dryer in the summer than the UK. I wouldn't worry about it.


How can I clean and paint my basement floor? The basement in my house I just purchased has remnants of paint on one half of the basement that is separated by a wall. The remaining paint is stuck down really well and I would like to paint over it. I have found some concrete paints at the store I could use, but was wondering if there was a cheaper and better option.

Before I get to the paint however, I need to clean the floor. There is a white powder on the floor that I can't seem to get up. I tried using soap, water, and a stiff bristled broom. I swept it all toward the drain, but apparently not enough or something. Now I see foot prints all over from myself as well. I'm wondering if the dirt is just being suspended in the water and isn't all going to the drain. Would doing the same thing with a shop vac be better? I'm looking for a cheap option because I have other projects in mind as well.

Hard to tell what that white residue is from the description. It could just be old soaps or at worse efflorescence. Try using a mixture of 2/3 water, 1/3 bleach and some TSP.  mix a small batch and test a small area. Be sure to rinse it well and see it that gets rid of it.  If it doesn't do the trick, you may have to etch the exposed concrete with mureatic  acid and rinse well before repainting.

Assuming you finally get it cleaned up, let it dry well.  Use fans, dehumidifier or ventilation to speed the process. Then I'd really recommend a good bonding primer and overcoat with a good flooring enamel.  You can use regular concrete paint if it is not a high traffic area, but I like using a strong bonding coat first.


Aluminum window trim: what is it called and where to look for it? I am building a wall in my condo. To place the stud as close to the window frame as possible, I had to cut through the rectangular enclosure (that houses a power cable) made of plywood and covered by 1/16" aluminum.

This aluminum trim/shield was glued into the flooring so I had to use force to remove it. I twisted it in the process. I would like to buy it new but I am not sure what it's called and where to look for it. Any ideas?

I also need something very similar to finish off (or cap) the wall (both the stud and the sheet rock) where it meets the window.

That looks like powdercoated steel.  In that size, you probably will have to get something custom made.  You can try to source the raw powdercoated steel yourself online (or locally?) and have a professional shape it for you.  If you are lucky you might find some pre-bent 90 degree stock online as well.

Here's one possible one-stop shop, but it might be pricey.  Be careful to match the sheen to your existing metal! http://www.rapidsheetmetal.com/powder.aspx

I think you'd be best off finding a fab shop locally so you can bring your piece in and just have them duplicate it to your specs.


Switch out a Dimmer Switch with 5 Black Wires I want to switch out a dimmer switch with a regular switch.  There are 5 black wires attached to this 2 wire dimmer switch - 1 to 1 and 4 to 1.  How do I install a regular switch with two screws?  4 black wires to 1 and 1 black wire to the other?

If the dimmer controls only one light, the four wire bundle is almost certainly a group of hot leads powering several fixtures or outlets in addition to the dimmer and its fixture. The single wire from the dimmer goes to the fixture it controls.

You can confirm this by checking the leads using a non contact tester. Make sure the wires are not touching the box or anything else. Turn the dimmer off. Turn the breaker on. You should read power on the bundled wires and no power on the single wire.

Turn the breaker off again.

A pigtail (a short black wire) should be connected between the 4 wire bundle and one terminal of the switch (if is is a basic switch, either terminal will do). Connect the other terminal to the single wire. Mount the switch and turn the breaker back on.


Transparent screw-on 6" cap for PVC pipe I got a backwater valve installed in my basement. The water table was high, so I could not use a backwater valve with a see-through cover; I had to use a valve that is typically used for outside installations. I can access the valve for maintenance through a 6" wide PVC pipe (see picture).

With the see-through backwater valve, one can easily see if there is a backflow situation. There are also some alarms that can be used to warn of backflow situation. However, with the current setup I can't see if there is a backflow situation without opening the 6" cap. This could be a bad idea if sewage starts spilling out of the open pipe. So I am thinking that it would be great if the cap was transparent. I couldn't find such a cap googling around. Is there such a thing as a transparent 6" screw on cap?

What tool does one use to open & close these caps anyway? It is a 2" counter sunk square.

Also, since it seems that off the shelf alarms don't exist for these 6" cap, I was thinking of making my own with an off-the-shelf water alarm combined with the cap. I would have to drill some hole(s) through the cap (transparent or not) and feed the wire through. The plate would go inside the pipe and the alarm outside. How would I seal the hole around the wire? It would have to be airtight, and strong enough to resist a backflow pushing up against it.

Clear PVC does exist and you might be able to locate some from Commercial Industial Supply (for example).

With regard to gluing wire (insulation) to PVC, a copious amount of epoxy or silicone should work. Luckily, the pressure should not be extreme. The most important instruction is to drill the hole just large enough to slide the wire though without pinching or damaging the insulation. For the best result, the connection (wire in the hole) should be practically air tight before using glue. But glue won't last forever.

What tool does one use to open & close these caps anyway?

Looks like you need a cleanout plug wrench or a Square for Counter-Sunk Clean-Out Plugs.

Edit- based on comment that a wrench could not be obtained-
Well, 2 inches is kind of large; perhaps a drum plug wrench is waht you need.

You just need to get anything (a hard piece of wood or metal) that is 2" x 2". But I think that a piece of plywood might be strong enough (birch would be preferable to pine). Cut a piece 2" x 2" (of course) and cut a nice long, wide handle. Pre-drill 4 holes in the corners of the 2" square before using screws (to avoid splitting the wood). Apply plenty of glue and screw the small square piece to the face of the handle. It might not work forever, but it will probably work a few times at least.