What type of floor drain is this and can I connect pipes to it? Everything is fine with the drain, however there was some gunk left on this picture because no one used it for years and I was cleaning it up when I took the picture, here is my floor drain which was closed off with a cap:

I can't see what exactly happens, but first off this black plastic is not removable - it might be stuck with concrete in the floor. Anyways, the whole idea with this drain is that it's not going straight down to the sewer. First there is water that is always stuck in the larger basin, which drains into the smaller hole which ends up to a flat surface with a small circular 360* open, which then it might (I suppose) continue to the normal pipe, I draw a section view what I think happens here:

So what type of drain floor is this and can I connect bathtub drain pipes to it (although it is already narrow, short and I cannot use reducer).

It is not made for more pipes, it is a floor drain and the only way to hook more pipes t it is to break up the floor and tie into 3" line that drain does eventually tie into.

This picture of the drain cap I was referring t. It is like the older cast iron type. Looking up this type of drain that is around now have openings all over it.

 The way it is supposed to work is, the water is not supposed to go directly into the drain in the center. It fills the "cup" around the perimeter, catching any objects that get washed in by the flow of water. The objects will settle in the bottom of the catch basin and the water will fill up enough to pour over the edge and go down the waste pipe in the center.


My 3 inch by 9 grade 316 stainless steel deck screws are breaking These are self-tapping screws, meaning that I don't have to drill a pilot hole, but I have broken 3 of them already and I think a pilot hole would help, or maybe a stronger screw.
It seems to break if there is a knothole in the wood or just a harder spot in the wood.
Can anyone recommend a strong stainless steel 3 inch screw that is self-tapping and strong? Would a #10 be better than a #9? Should I just pre-drill with a 1/8 inch drill bit?
I'm using an impact driver (Dewalt XR) and I use it on the middle setting (setting 2 where 3 is max and 1 is for light screwing).
Also, I have no clue about the best way to get the broken screw out (it's just a stub sticking out of the board). Any recommendations for getting the broken screw out?
Thanks!
David

For the screw that is stuck... The easiest way to deal with it is to chop it off and then to take a bigger bit and drill it down a good 1/8"+ so it doesn't ever stick out.   Sure you can spend a ton of time backing it out but I wouldn't bother with it.
I will give you two general pieces of advice when doing something like a deck...

Test out your screws with the materials you have.  I certainly wouldn't trust most stainless steel screws to go in that deep without a pilot - without breaking.   Self-tapping means you don't need a pilot/starter to get it to catch easy.   It by no purpose means you don't need a pilot hole.   I would test a couple of sizes of pilot holes and see how big you can go while keeping your screw really snug.

Back your screws out halfway once you get to 3/4 of the way down.   This helps clear the threads and it gives your screws a break from the amount of heat.   I do the same technique when doing any kind of wood join with screws.   It reduced breakage and stripping the heads by 5 fold.


Is it ok to insulate external cantilever floor joists with foam board to fix cold floor? We have very cold floors in the kitchen because the outside air is moving up through the external cantilevered floor.

I'd like to insulate it by cutting 2" foam (probably XPS or Polyurethane) and attaching it between the joists. Note: house is in San Francisco (lowest temp is about 38F) Three questions:

Is this a good approach? (better ideas welcomed)
Do I need to worry about moisture buildup?
What's the best foam for the job?

Photo of my joists:

Proposed solution:

Any kind of insulation will help us would consider boxing by in the space also, if in an elevated area we used to have trouble with swallows building their mud nests in areas like that so boxing them was a must, (I don’t see that issue here but we had it just north of you). But insulation will help.


How can I measure the r-value of a wall? What is a reproducible test to measure the r-value of an exterior wall? Or even a specific spot on a specific wall? It needn't produce an absolutely certain result, but a good estimate with known level of confidence would be helpful.

This is more a science question than a question about a specific project.

Getting R-value is based on three things really.

Materials
Distance
Sealing

Example - If you framed with 2x6s instead of 2x4s with just sheetrock - your wall would have more r-value because there would be a greater distance for air to travel to the other side.

Also materials are given an r-value based on their use in a best case scenario.  Just because you have insulation that is r-13 doesn't mean you are getting r-13 returns after installing.  Think about putting in one piece of insulation that is 12 inches wide to fix a 50 foot gap.  Did it do anything measurable?  Probably not.

Also r-value is a max measurement again.  If the temperature outside is 70 degrees and it is 70 degree inside you could have 5 feet of materials with an r-value of 500 but in actuality it is providing an r-value of 0.  r-value is measuring a change in temp from one side of a system to another.  The more drastic the temperatures the greater need for more r-value and the greater r-value returns you will get.

So to answer your question without getting the CSI team together you will need a thermometer and a couple hours of steady weather (turn off your heating/air too).  Optional piece of equipment would be a shoebox - to keep thermometer out of sun and drafts.

Notice that I didn't answer how much potential r-value a wall could have because that doesn't matter.  You will have taped seems, outlets, studs, whatever.  You want real world functionality.  Take the temperature on outside wall, take the temperature inside, and take the temperature right by same wall in same location.  This chart does work.  Easiest to do on a window area but works everywhere.

To know your systems true r-value you will have to have extreme temps outside/inside.  If your system really did perform at greater than r-15 which is about a 5 degree change over the course of a 100 degree temp conflict then you will have to have one of those -40 degree days with a toasty 80 degrees inside to get your true measurement.  I have tested out very well insulated houses and they usually max out around r-15 to 20 range.  Spray foam in some cases has out produced r-20.


How can I cover a rounded window under a slanted ceiling? We're soon moving into a new house, and my room has a big window (with a door  in it to access the balcony) under a slanted ceiling. The ceiling is quite steep, and there is very little clearing between it and the window.

I'm easily disturbed by light in my room when I'm trying to sleep, so I'm looking for a way to cover as much of the glass as possible with a material that lets very little light through.

Currently there are some very ugly curtains suspended to the ceiling, which you can pull away to the side and keep there with a tie-back. However, I'd prefer another type of covering. My desk is in the same room, so I'd want something that can let light through during the day (blinds for example, or perhaps two types of covering).

I've been thinking about it for a while, but I can't really find a solution to the problem. I'm not exactly up to date on what types of covering exist.

The illustration I added is not exactly to scale, but I think it captures the layout of that wall well enough. If accurate measurements or more info is needed, I'll be sure to add it.

Elegant and effective, high quality shutters block most light. They can be built with battery powered motors for remote control opening and closing. Must be custom made for most circumstances like yours, so not the cheapest option.

Blinds would be a nice option. Also must be custom made but a bit cheaper than shutters.


New bathroom fan has 2 green wires but i do not know where to connect them A new bathroom fan I want to install has 2 green and 1 each white and black. The line in the attic consists of a white, a black and a ground. What do I do with the 2 green wires?

Green designates a ground (earth) wire. If the incoming wires have a ground wire (usually bare copper or green stranded insulated) attach the grounds to it with a wire nut or a crimp connector.


removing mold on wall beneath sink I had some water dripping under the sink from the valve and the faucet that was leaking. After fixing the faucet, some mold started to appear on the dry wall behind the sink. I have taken it out two times, once with vinegar. However, it has come back again. How can I fix it ? Would it ever go?

Full photo set

If the mold is recurring, there is still moisture in the drywall. Keep a fan on the area until it's completely dry, and clean the mold off one more time. Once that's done, you can prime and paint and the problem should not recur. You might use a primer that's marketed as a good stain blocker.


Should we replace shingles that are curling and losing the asphalt coating before winter hits? I don't know how long ago this roof was shingled, but we've noticed that the asphalt shingles, in two patches, have begun to curl and lose their grit.

Even after a late summer of fierce rain, at least for now, there is no evidence of water infiltration within the home (no mould, staining, drooping drywall, bubbling paint, etc).

How long can we wait until replacing the roof? Given the budget, should it be done urgently?

If it is necessary, but we can't get it done before the snow falls (which will be soon) are there any stop-gap measures we could try?

Replace it now.  Like TODAY.  That's BAD.
With that kind of bad shingle wear, your shingles are likely to create ice dams which will cause water to back up and leak through the roof, causing interior damage, compounding the cost.

In the summer, the roof won't hold the water because it can't freeze, so the curls will only grab a very little water before it drips free.
In the winter, however, a little retained water will freeze, expand, and capture more water, which will freeze, and so forth.


What type cable and size should I use for my shop? My existing overhead wire is triplex 1/0,  2 insulated  and one bare. The power company is out of the picture because they do not provide service to a customer supplied pole.

My existing wire is at a 20 ' pole , 5 feet from the weatherhead at the shop. The mast is 10' ,  2 inch galv. pipe with a lbr going into the shop behind the load center.

Questions are:  Can I just splice in an 18' section of 1/0 triplex and be done with it?

Should I splice in a 4/0 triplex using a mechanical reducer splice? 4/0 is because of the weatherhead and mast. Not sure if required because it is not a residence.

Should I even use a triplex wire with a bare neutral in a metal conduit?

Items on the service are :

deep well pump 20a
Welder 50a
Compressor 30a
Lift 30a
Lights 15a
Outlet 20a
Outlet 20a

We simply need more information:  How far to the shop?  Is the meter base at the shop?  A picture/diagram of property would be helpful; include distances.

If the panel shown here is equipped with a main breaker, there is no need for an additional disconnect.  I see no need for the pole as all.  Just strike to the mast.

If it is indeed 400-feet to the meter base you are going to have a fairly serious voltage drop problem.  The voltage is based upon the amount of actual current used at any one time.

If the pole is required for ground clearance than don't splice at the pole just strike to the pole and continue to the weather head.

Technically you need a quad-plex or 4-wires as the feeder.  After the service the neutral is separated from the ground. I would recommend an underground feeder.  I would put it down 4-5 feet for protection.

If you could give me the estimated max current draw at any one time we could recommend a wire size. That means that when you strike an arc with the welder what is the actual current draw of the welder on the circuit.  And when the pump actually runs and is pumping full bore, what is the current draw on the pump motor. And when the compressor is running nearing the shut-off point what is that motor drawing.  And what is the actual amp draw on the lights? Then throw in 10 or 12 amps for power and bench tools per number of men that will be using the building at any one time. With this we can give you wire size.

Do you ever plan to heat the building?


Soaking tub on the second floor: safe? I am considering getting a soaking tub (pdf here) for my second floor master bathroom. However, I am unsure of how much weight the floor and walls below can support.

The house itself is wood frame pier and beam, built in 1885, with an addition in 1941. The bathroom is roughly 8 ft by 9 ft, and straddles the line between the two, 4 ft in the 1885 half, 4 ft in the 1941 half. The room has 2x10 joists running long-ways under a double layer of 3/4 inch tongue-and-groove subfloor, with an easily accessible 3 ft space underneath (installing the plumbing will be easy!). The walls of the 1941 half are 2x4s at roughly 16 inch spacing, and the walls of the 1885 half has 4x4s at 24in spacing. The 8 ft sides are both exterior walls, and the 9 ft sides are both interior. The 1941 9 ft wall spans a room, otherwise all the walls continue down to the foundation. As far as I can tell, there is no sign of rot, water, or insect damage.

The new bathtub will sit in the corner, with the long edge against the 9 ft side of the 1941 half. It's a two person tub with an "average fill" of 75 gallons, though by my calculations it could hold almost twice that. It will be half-sunk into the floor, with three 9 ft long 2x10 joists supporting it underneath and two 9 ft 2x10 joists (under the floor) holding up the frame. The upper and lower joists rest on top of 2x10s that are directly attached to the outside walls. The upper and one of the lower joists are part of the original 1885 building; the others are new lumber.

I want to make sure that what I'm doing is not only safe, but would pass a building inspection; I don't want to spend a lot of time and money drawing up plans and applying for permits if I don't have a hope of succeeding. Will my floor hold the tub with ample safety margins?

If what you're saying is the tub will be on top of 2x10 at 16" on center spacing, with a span of 9 feet between bearing points that continue down to the foundation, you'll be fine. A drawing of the complex framing you seem to have would help out immensely. I still recommend doing the drawings and getting permits: I have a lot of experience framing houses, but I'm not an engineer. You can find span tables online that can help you determine weight allowance for framing members.

FYI, the 'average fill' is probably based on the displacement of two people in the tub; even if you could fit more water in, you'll probably want to only fill it halfway before two people get in.


Can you connect a 14 gauge electrical wire with a 12 gauge? In the attached image, the 14 gauge wire coming from the left and into the junction box, is from a gas stove the floor above. The 12 gauge wire coming from the right is connected to the panel and is no longer used. It would sure be convenient if I could just tie these two together instead of running wire all the way to the panel again. Is there anything wrong with connecting a 14 and 12 gauge together? The stove only requires 15amps so the 14 should be ok on that front:

You can do this, but you must make sure the breaker for the circuit is a 15A breaker, not a 20A breaker. It is also possible that someone in the future may look at the 12 gauge wire coming out of a 15A breaker and think "I can up that to 20A by just replacing the breaker", so labeling it properly on the panel is important.


My swamp cooler is leaving everything in the house black, why? It's a brand new swamp cooler. I've called the landlord twice to fix it he said the belt fell off the first time then the second time he said there's nothing is wrong. It's the same problem from before. I noticed it doesn't blow as hard as it did before. It's leaving everything black in the house the walls, stove, counters, and i just saw my white curtain black where the air goes through. I'll upload a picture of that. Any ideas what can be the problem? Nonsmoking household.

It is my experience that the bolt pattern used to mount the motor in a swamp cooler can easily allow the motor axis to be set not parallel with the axis of the fan shaft. When not aligned parallel the pulley on the motor, even when appearing to be lined up nicely with the fan pulley, can end up rubbing excessively on the sides of the drive belt. This can create excessive amounts of black dust as a belt wears. It is even more interesting that a new belt can be more subject to getting chewed up like this than an older used belt that has developed a glaze on its surface.


Can I use a 16/3 extension cord for a refrigerator? I have an outlet that is dead by the refrigerator.  Can I use an extension cord temporarily and what would be the minimum?   It is a small apartment sized refrigerator.

Wire gauge tables for 16AWG list the maximum carrying current from 4 to 10 amps continuous; for 18AWG, 2 to 5 amps (for under 50-ft lengths, at least).  I think it's unlikely that your fridge draws more than 2 amps under any conditions ( if you have a tag on the unit which lists watts, just divide watts by 120 (voltage) to get amps), so any extension cord you have will be fine.  However, if the fridge has a 3-prong plug, be sure to use a matching 3-wire extension cord for grounding safety.


Do dryer belts need to break in? I just replaced a broken belt in our Maytag dryer, it was the right belt, identical to the old one, but it's not working so good... It's properly installed, but it's like the belt is slipping when we put a full load in it, we never had this issue with the old belt. Do new belts need some time to break in?

Tighten the spring on the idler pulley.

Or the old belt broke because the bearings are shot (not good, in my experience that's new washer time).

Actually on a dryer, it's worth it/much easier to replace the bearings and glides. If the drum doesn't spin freely without the belt, you may want to go ahead and a take a look at the drum glides and see if they're worn or missing, before you burn up this belt too.


Is this neutral-ground bus bar configuration correct? Looking inside the electrical panel in the house I bought, I was surprised to see the neutral bus bar crowded right up next to the ground bus bar, so much so that it seems the ground bus bar is virtually impossible to access in order to secure grounding wires to it.

Here's a photo:

The neutral bus is to the left of the ground bus, and it stands slightly forward of the ground bus. You'll notice that the neutral bar is loaded with double-taps - including both neutral and ground wires. I'm not even certain there are ground wires actually connected to the ground bus (it's pretty well hidden) - though as you can see in the lower right corner of the photo, the very thick service ground wire that connects the ground bus to the plumbing and grounding electrode.

Looking at this next photo - the handling of the ground wires pictured has me asking if this is wrong and needs to be corrected?

Here, ground wires terminate outside the panel box, though bonded to it.

As well, a couple ground wires inside the panel box are kind of twisted together, with at least two wires wrapping around a couple of others that are connected at the neutral bar.

I have more photos of the installation, but this being my very first post, I was limited to just two. The panel box is an old Murray Class CTL Load Center, Cat. No. LC 240 PS that may date back to the 70's, when the former owners bought this house. The only information I've been able to find about what it's original intended configuration was supposed to be is a diagram on the panel door that actually shows two vertical columns of screw heads/lugs (side-by-side) that appear to represent those bus bars, numbered like the breaker spaces.

Questions, questions! Were these bus bars installed correctly? How was/is someone supposed to access that ground bus with it being so tight against both the neutral bus and the inside of the panel box? Also, I mentioned the numbering of the bus bar lugs to correspond with the breakers numbering, and so I wonder does it really matter in what order neutrals and grounds are connected to their bus bars?

If this is the only panel box, or the main panel box, then the neutral and ground wires may terminate at the same set of bus bars. This is where the neutral and ground wires are bonded together. What we might be seeing is a dual bus bar setup that is stacked and offset like stadium seating. They are likely permanently bonded together. There is no stipulation in the order of termination so long as only one wire is secured per terminal (unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise).

The ground wires outside of the box are improperly terminated. They should run into the box and to those bus bars. Look at the corrosion and dirt on that twisted mess. It most likely is not able to conduct fault current properly to trip a breaker. That's a fire and electrocution hazard right there.

Splices in the panel box are allowed so long as they are properly spliced and the total wire volume does not fill the panel to the point where you need to squeeze the cover on or tamp the wires so the cover fits.

Multiple cables through a single clamp is also a violation as the clamps are only rated to secure a single cable. The only way multiple wires can terminate to the same knockout is if the clamp is rated to do so. Standard clamps in the picture are rated for a single cable only. Multiple wires in a single clamp can slide against each other allowing them to pull out. So the dunderhead electrician tightens the clamp even more possibly damaging the cable in the process.

This is an older panel box which was built in a time where the NEC didn't stipulate more room for a panel box. Modern boxes have much more room. Tandem breakers or skinnies are allowed only if the number of circuits does not exceed the panels rating. E.g. a panel rated for 20 circuits which has 20 spaces (a 20/20 panel) can only have 20 circuits regardless of the type of breaker used. You could have 5 tandems and 10 singles for a total of 20 circuits. It can not be filled with 20 tandem breakers for 40 circuits or any combination which exceeds 20 circuits UNLESS the panel has a higher circuit to space rating like 20/40. This change was done in 2014 to alleviate overcrowded panels.


GFI safety on electrical outlet I have a Ground Fault outlet in my bathroom and I replaced it  thinking it was bad.  The new will not reset unless I disconnect the load line. Can I safely use the outlet without hooking the load wires to the outlet?  I know my outlets outside will not work as they are connected to the Ground Fault outlet.

Yes, it is safe. NO, it is not what you should do.

The proper fix for this is to find out why the GFI is tripping. It is doing it's job and you need to find out why.


How to remove rusted screws? I have these rusted screws in my garage door.

How do I remove them? I tried using pliers, a hammer, Water Displacement 40. Didn't come out.

Here is another view from the inside:

If someone has a tip regarding how to go about removing these two rusted screws, then please let me know.

Thanks kindly

What you have on the inside looks like a rusty nut on a rusty threaded stud that is part of the broken rusty outside handle.

You don't mention having tried a wrench (AKA spanner) - the closed end of a combination wrench offers the best grip. You may need to clean loose rust using a wire brush to get it to fit. An adjustable wrench might work better than the pliers you mentioned, Using a vise-grip (AKA locking pliers AKA mole-grip) on the outside may help if the outside parts rotate.

You could cut them off with a hacksaw, a rotary tool (Dremel etc) or a multitool.

Sometimes you can use heat to help free up rusted/siezed parts like that. If you have a blowtorch, you could try this. Personally I'd cut them off since you probably don't want to reuse the nuts or the outer handle..


Do I have to replace backerboard before tiling a floor? We recently pulled up the vinyl in our bathroom to discover that there is backerboard underneath. It is in good shape but has a thin layer of glue on parts. The surface is completely smooth. Can I install tile on this existing backerboard, or do I need to replace the backerboard?

If it's in good shape (clean, planar, etc.), then it is fine to put tile on top of it, assuming that putting tile on it doesn't make the floor too high at the entrance to the bathroom.


Will window shrink-wrap make a noticeable difference in heating bill in house with single-paned windows? I'm curious how well the window shrink wrap really works. I moved into an older house (1927) in Lincoln, Nebraska, this summer. It's all single pane windows with a window screen and a storm window, as well. We have about 20 windows, so I'm estimating a cost for shrinkwrapping to be about $50-$100 with a couple hours of labor, too. I also just think the plastic shrinkwrap looks a little ugly, but if it'll save me more than it costs to install, it might be worth it. I've found some research just saying to replace the windows, but that's not feasible right now.

You will almost certainly save $100 on your heating costs by using film, assuming you install it well and stop drafts through the window seals. It may also make the home feel more comfortable, which can be the primary benefit.
Also, properly installed film is virtually invisible. You hardly know it's there.
In my former home here in Minnesota we put the tape on the face of the casing, applied the film, shrunk it, then trimmed the edges close to the tape. My wife usually did the job and could do it in a few hours. It was a no-brainer for us even with storm windows over the single-pane double-hung units from the 1950s.


Bizarre "dirty" smell around house I live in a 1987 colonial with siding and brick. About three weeks ago my family woke up choking at 5:00 am from a dirty/ mildew type smell. We identified it as coming from the chimney and had the chimney resealed and all all cracks cemented.

Then the smell morphed and was dry and dirty/dusty almost cigarette. When the system is off, we smell it in the return vents. When the air is off, we can smell it coming out of the supply.

It moves around the house but seems constant by the front foyer and the upstairs hallways. We have had the ductwork cleaned, the coils on the hvac cleaned and an ionizer installed in the hvac. We have had two separate companies test for mold and they have found nothing.

We have a hospital grade filtration system. We are going nuts and can't live there because my throat starts to close. We're ready to just walk away at this point but it would crush us financially. Any advice?

When was the 'hospital grade' filtration system installed? What is the nature of the filter media and the physical arrangement of the filters? Where is the air handler located? in the attic? in a closet in the living space? in the basement?

You might try a less restrictive filter. The more restrictive the filter is, the lower is the pressure in the region between the filter and the blower motor.  If there is a leak in this region, outside unfiltered air will be pulled in from a region of higher pressure, bypassing the filter and perhaps carrying musty odors. If the duct work in this region suddenly sprang a leak, then this would explain the sudden appearance of this off odor. Inspect the duct work carefully in this low pressure area.

There are reports of highly restrictive filters putting such a high load on the blower fan motor that it increased the electric current flow in the motor above the design limit and drastically shortened the service life of the motor. Could this smell be from an overheated motor?


Is pre-mixed ethanol-free fuel better than mixing yourself? I just invested in a very nice 2-cycle string trimmer and I want it to last.  I have always used stabilizer in my fuel for my 4-cycle lawn mower.  I know that ethanol attracts moisture and the stabilizer does not let the water separate and sink, thus rusting out components.  I also know that ethanol used to break down seals and fittings, but that manufacturers use better material now that are okay in the presence of ethanol.

Is using a fuel stabilizer and mixing the oil myself just as good as using an ethanol-free fuel?  I have read some reviews of the pre-mixed fuels where a lack of lubrication (caused by quality control at the manufacturer plant) have caused pistons to seize up in the cylinders.

I don't care about the cost of the pre-mixed fuel as I wouldn't use much in an entire season; the question is more about the benefits and risks.

Nothing is guaranteed but I think the odds of you messing up the fuel/oil mixture yourself are greater than getting a bad batch from the factory. So I would say yes, the pre-mixed fuel is a safer bet. Also if you buy pre-mixed fuel there is less risk of water/dirt getting into your gas cans.

However I personally think it's not worth it. Buying pre-mixed fuel removes one possible source of problems but it does not guarantee trouble-free use year after year. You will still want to perform basic small-engine maintenance like emptying the fuel tank at the end of the season, checking the air filter periodically, etc.

You could do some back-of-the-envelope math to see how much it would cost you to use the pre-mixed stuff and then compare that to the cost of a new trimmer if this one does bite the dust. At a cost of $20-30/gallon it could really add up if you use the trimmer regularly.


How does fresh air get inside a house with central heating other than through cracks of door or window on a cold winter day I'm not sure how fresh air, or oxygen, gets inside my house other than through cracks of window or door on a cold winter day when the central heating system is on.

I have a pipe that is coming from outside in my basement and delivers air to my basement (there is no fan in it or anything just a pipe by itself). And I think that is meant for providing  fresh oxygen for the gas furnace to burn. However, since it is not directly connected to the furnace air intake vent ( a white J-shaped pipe), there will be some outside fresh air delivered to my basement, but in no way is that an effective way of delivering fresh air to the whole house.

So I'm asking this question because sometimes I feel suffocated even when the central fan is on in my house, and I have already positioned myself to be near the vents to make sure there are air flowing around my head. I can't really open the window because my window is facing a neighbor who constantly burns his wood in his old fashioned furnace when produces black smoke that blows towards my window. Our basement outside air intake place is somewhat more discrete, though. Which is why I'm not smelling smoke when all windows are closed.

So I'm asking, is there no other way of getting fresh air inside my fresh air, by using the furnace? Or is an average house supposed to be have fresh air intake systems?  I'm in no way an HVAC expert, I might be making wrong presumptions in my question, but any help would be appreciated :)

It depends on the home, and the system. Neither of which you've provided much information.

Older homes are usually drafty enough to provide adequate combustion air, so dedicated intake are not required.  Modern homes tend to be sealed up much tighter, and often require air intakes.

Sometimes systems are installed in a utility closet, or other space where makeup air can't be drawn from surrounding areas in the home.  In these cases, an air intake will also be used.

Some modern furnaces actually draw air from outside, directly into the unit. This reduces the amount of cold dry air that is pulled into the home.

If you're simply concerned about the quality of the air entering the home, it's possible that you could install a filter on the intake. Though you'll have to make sure you don't restrict the amount of air being drawn in.

If you don't have carbon monoxide detectors in the home, you'll want to install some.


Better life span for halogen bulbs in ceiling lighting? The halogen bulbs for our recessed ceiling spotlights  have to be replaced quite often.

Could we be using the wrong transformer/bulb combinations? How would I find out? Does the number of bulbs attached to any one transformer influence the life-span of the bulbs or the transformer? Are these bulbs drop-in replaceable by LED bulbs?

Transformer output: 11.5V, 35-105W

Bulb specs: 12V, 30W

The situation: Due to their location in the room we have 2 bulbs connected to a transformer. We have a total of 6 transformers and 12 bulbs.

Please leave a comment if more specs are needed to answer this question, then I will try to look them up. NB: The grid voltage is extremely stable in our neighbourhood.

These bulbs can fail from overheating. If there is insulation in the space around them you may need to remove some to give them some ventiation, and it may even help to cut a small hole in the attic flooring.


installed new disposal and now dishwasher will not drain We have a new dishwasher that was installed by the retailer.  A month later we installed a disposal our selves.  Now the dishwasher is not draining.  Any suggestions?

Seems likely that the knockout plug in the drain line on the disposal unit needs to be removed. (It's there for people that aren't connecting a dishwasher.) User Fiasco Labs likes a drift pin and a hammer; I've used a socket on an extension and a hammer. Either way, make sure you don't leave any bits behind.

If that's not the root cause, comment back and we'll do our best to sort you out.


Code for Buried Comms Cable Are there any code requirements for buried communications cable (coax for TV/Internet)?
Rockdale County, GA if it makes a difference.

I have some jokers contractors at my house today who are supposed to be installing the cable, but their initial assessment when they arrived was "But it's already buried!" when they observed it to have been covered by 6 weeks worth of leaves - so I think it's understandable that I don't really trust them to do the job properly on their own initiative ...

The National Electrical Code has code explaining how to protect direct-buried broadband communications cables. However, they also provide an exception to that code, that allows cable companies to basically provide the cable no physical protection at all.
In the NEC you'll notice 830.47(C), which provides adequate protection to the buried cable.

National Electrical Code 2017
Chapter 8 Communications Systems
Article 830 Network-powered broadband Communications Systems.
830.47 Underground Network-Powered Broadband Communications Cables Entering Buildings.
(C) Mechanical Protection. Direct-buried cable, conduit, or other raceways shall be installed to meet the minimum cover requirements of Table 830.47(C). In addition, direct-buried cables emerging from the ground shall be protected by enclosures, raceways, or other approved means extending from the minimum cover distance required by Table 830.47(C) below grade to a point at least 2.5 m (8 ft) above finished grade. In no case shall the protection be required to exceed 450 mm (18 in.) below finished grade.  Types BMU and BLU direct-buried cables emerging from the ground shall be installed in rigid metal conduit (RMC), intermediate metal conduit (IMC), rigid nonmetallic conduit, or other approved means extending from minimum cover distance required by Table 830.47(C) below grade to the point of enterance.

However, if you continue reading, you'll see the "do whatever you want" exception (that was likely put in the code by a large cable company).

Exception: A low-power network-powered broadband communications circuit that is equipped with a listed fault protection device, appropriate to the network-powered broadband communications cable used, and located on the network side of the network-powered broadband communications cable being protected.

Which basically means, the cable can lay right on top of the ground. Or be pushed just below the grass, as most cable/telecommunication companies do.


How do I repair a door frame? How do I repair this type of Door Frame? Also, what size screws do you buy for a standard door frame?

Assuming that the problems you're trying to solve are 1) stripped hinge screws, and 2) splintered jamb veneer...

You can mount the hinges in one of several ways:

Fill the holes firmly with wood slivers (or toothpicks) and wood glue. Allow to dry, and drill for standard hinge screws (commonly #9 or #10 by 1" flat-head). Use a pilot bit that's slightly smaller than the screw shank (not the thread diameter).
Purchase repair screws with a larger thread diameter.
Use longer screws that reach to the framing. 3" gold construction screws often work well and have a similar appearance. Be sure to not drive them so tight that you move the jamb. You might want to pilot with a 1/8" bit to prevent veering or splitting of the stud as you'll be fairly close to the edge with the outermost screws.

Since your jambs are painted you can use any common wood filler to skim the damage. Use a tool or nail to simulate wood grain with light scratches, them prime and paint.


Connecting condensate pump to sewer My AC condensate pump currently pumps through a vinyl tube directly outside my house. However, I just replaced my broken home humidifier and realized that the previous one never had its drain properly installed and it just dripped into a plastic bucket or into the crawlspace (bad). I connected the drain of the new one to the condensate pump so it can pump out the excess water from the humidifier. As it often drops below freezing here and I'm worried the tube will freeze now that the humidifier drains into the pump during the winter.

Here is the tube outlet on the side of the foundation:

I was wondering if I can tie the condensate pump line into my sewer drain in the crawlspace. I've got a shower drain with the trap in the crawlspace so I could install a PVC wye above the trap and drop the vinyl tube into there.

Here are some photos of the drain.

I assume there is a vent that goes up the wall, behind the shower and out the roof.

Is this reasonable? I was worried if I added a separate trap for the condensate pump that it might dry out during shoulder seasons when the AC/humidifier are not running. I'm not sure if this is relevant but this would become my lowest open drain and I guess would be a problem if the sewer backed up, although it seems best that this happens in the crawlspace.

I'm in Franklin County, WA if that matters, I'm not sure how to look up codes for condensate draining into the sanitary sewer.

Thanks!

Yes, you can plumb the outlet of the condensate pump into the tailpiece of the shower. Assuming the condensate line is properly trapped, then there should be no problem.

You'll notice in the code snippet below, that it says "If discharged into the drainage system, equipment shall drain by means of an indirect waste pipe.". Which means you cannot, plumb the condensate drain directly into an untrapped waste line or vent.

  Uniform Plumbing Code

  Chapter 8 Indirect Wastes

  814.0 Condensate Wastes and Control.

  814.1 Condensate Disposal. Condensate from air
  washers, air-cooling coils, fuel-burning condensing
  appliances, the overflow from evaporative coolers,
  and similar water-supplied equipment or similar air-conditioning
  equipment shall be collected and
  discharged to an approved plumbing fixture or
  disposal area. If discharged into the drainage system,
  equipment shall drain by means of an indirect waste
  pipe. The waste pipe shall have a slope of not less
  than one-eighth (1/8) inch per foot (10.4 mm / m) or 1
  percent slope and shall be of approved
  corrosion-resistant material not smaller than the
  outlet size as required in Table 8-2 for air-cooling
  coils or condensing fuel-burning appliances, respectively.
  Condensate or wastewater shall not drain
  over a public way.

  814.3 Point of Discharge. Air-conditioning condensate
  waste pipes shall connect indirectly to the
  drainage system through an airgap or airbreak to a
  properly trapped and vented receptors dry wells,
  leach pits, or the tailpiece of plumbing fixtures.
  Condensate waste shall not drain over a public
  way.

  Chapter 2 Definitions

  211.0  -I-

  Indirect Waste Pipe - A pipe that does not connect
  directly with the drainage system but conveys liquid
  wastes by discharging into a plumbing fixture, interceptor,
  or receptacle that is directly connected to the
  drainage system.

  222.0 -T-

  Tailpiece - The pipe or tubing that connects the
  outlet of a plumbing fixture to a trap.

So you could have something like this, with the condensate pump.

If you can maintain the proper slope, you could remove the condensate pump.

In this situation the condensate pump is not required, since the tailpiece of the shower serves as the air gap. And you won't have problems with sewer gas, since the drain is protected by the trap on the shower drain.

You'll want to use proper fittings to connect to the tailpiece, rather than hacking together some leaking contraption.  Without knowing the size and material of the condensate drain, I can't tell you exactly what fittings to use. In the end, you should end up with something like this.

You'll cut the tailpiece, and fit in a new 45° wye. Then you'll use whatever adapters and reducers are required, to go from the condensate drain into the PVC wye. The condensate drain has to maintain the minimum slope, so you'll have to work with that as a constraint.


Should I install the exhaust hood outlet through the chimney or house wall? What are the advantages and disadvantages of implementing an outlet of a kitchen exhaust hood through a chimney or directly through the outer wall of the house? There are unused chimneys in the house but there is not a hole to one of them at the right place in the kitchen.

I think there could be differences in these parameters:

heat leakage (the house is insulated by polystyrene foam boards from the outside)
staining of the house wall
complexity and price of the maintenance
difficulty and price of the construction

If the chimney will be unused is it worth to enclose the open top end because of lower heat leakage and easier maintenance?

A hole in a wall is less likely to leak than a hole in the roof. Furthermore, when a hole in the wall leaks, it is likely to produce fewer problems than a leaky hole in the roof.

In the future, during reroofing, unused chimneys might be removed, and the associated hole in the roof along with them.


Diagnosing root cause of garage door stall Sometimes the garage door will stop after moving two inches.  This event happens either when opening or closing.  The door is 13 years old.

When it stops the button is pushed to return it to the start position and one has to start again and hope it closes.  Usually it ends up opening on the second try.

What can be done to diagnose the root cause of the problem and hopefully apply corrective action to prevent the false start?  If you have observed and remedied this problem please state this in the response: thank you.

Garage doors have a counterbalance mechanism (usually springs).   You don't actually lift the door, only move it.  When lifting a garage door, you should only be fighting the friction of the rollers in tracks, and the inertia of the door's weight.

It's very important that you keep a door in tip-top condition.  The problem with a binding door is you end up forcing it.  Forcing an already binding door makes it bind more.  And eventually damages the mechanism.  Eventually the damage and spring force tears the door apart, killing someone.  This is serious business, don't turn your back on a damaged garage door.

The power opener makes you blind

We have a factory with six huge doors on big 240V industrial power openers. Every door had serious problems.  Nobody knew, because when an opener could no longer open the door, they just bought a bigger opener!

Unhook the opener.  Work it by hand.

You'll find out in a right hurry where the problem is.  (or isn't).

There are about a dozen things that can go wrong with doors, and other sites have good checkout lists.  Just to name a few:

door rollers wobbly (bearings failed)
hinges sloppy due to excessive wear
door very hard-moving because it's skewed/trammed (higher on one side) due to slipped drum
unliftable due to counterbalance problem e.g. broken spring, cable problem or loose cable drum.
drifting up/down due to spring too loose, too tight, or wrong spring
door panels bent, e.g. from vehicle hit
hinges badly aligned, causing binding

With our huge doors, each door had at least 3 of these.  Now they open so well we didn't bother reconnecting the openers.

These parts are mostly standardized and not particularly expensive.


Electrical - GFCI tripping I was replacing an outlet in my bathroom with a gfci outlet. When I throw on the power, it trips but not only that, it takes out a set of lights over the mirror which are connected to a double switch on the wall. The other switch is fine. What should I be looking for to fix this issue?

Because "continuing the circuit" is a completely different thing than "placing a load inside the GFCI's protected zone". Especially where switches are present!

I get it. You've installed receptacles for decades.  You know (other than split receptacles) the extra 2 screws on the receptacle are for continuing the circuit onward.

Now you also know there are some receptacles (eg. USB) that only have 2 supply terminal screws.  They do not provide any method for continuing the circuit onward.  With those, you are forced to pigtail the receptacle and use a wirenut to splice its supply with the onward wires.

GFCIs are like that too, GFCIs only have two supply screws.  They are conspicuously marked LINE and they are the only terminals not covered with warning tape.  (The warning tape says, in so many words, "For Wizards Only".)So, similar to a USB, these should be pigtailed with a wirenut for continuing the circuit onward.  Only the LINE terminals should be used.  This is especially true in a retrofit situation like this, and double especially when there is a switch in the same box.

Everything I have said so far is about continuing a circuit onward, which is what you are trying to do.   Now we're going to turn the page.

GFCi devices come in several packaging styles.  There,s the GFCI+breaker, the plain GFCI deadfront, and our friend the GFCI+receptacle.  All of them provide a "GFCI protected zone".  Obviously, on a GFCI+receptacle, the protected zone is the built-in sockets.

However, all of them can extend their zone of protection beyond the device itself. (That'd be kinda necessary on the breaker and deadfront, eh!?)  How to do that is beyond the scope of this answer.  But you may know a rule that currents must be equal in any cable.   That rule applies in spades to any GFCI zone of protection.  This makes it rather tricky to work with them in switch boxes.

However there's generally no value or benefit to putting hardwired bathroom lights, fan, heater etc. on a GFCI.

Bottom line, pigtail everything to LINE and call it good.


How to remove this shower handle? I am having a hard time trying to remove this shower handle. I am not sure what model it is (although it looks similar to some Kohler designs I saw on their website).

There is a hole under the handle but none of my allen keys or screwdrivers seem to be working in unscrewing this set screw. I tried wd40 as well, but to no avail. I am starting to wonder whether there is one at all, but if there wasn't why would there be a hole?

I tried removing the large screws holding the square to the wall, in case it was just one big piece, but the square seems to be a separate part from the handle itself.

FYI

I would like to remove it in order to adjust the rotational limit stop: the water coming out is either cold or scalding hot.

EDIT Adding a pic, not the best shot, sorry but I don't have a torch and had to rely on flash.

EDIT Managed to get it off and fix the issue. What did it was a torx key T10. Had to buy a set, but was worth it. Thanks so much for your help!

Definitely a "hex/Allen/socket" head set screw, you can plainly see the hex in your picture if you look close. I think you may have been using too small a key:


Furnace Draft Inducer Repair: is previously installed back plate necessary? I'm replacing a non-functioning draft inducer on the Goodman furnace in my house (GMP075-3).  The previous inducer was mounted with a sheet metal back plate between it and the wall of the furnace.  This back plate happens to cover the 3.5" draft hole on the wall of the furnace with a smaller 1 5/8" hole of its own (see pictures) which I happen to find odd. Wouldn't that restrict air flow?

Since the new inducer assembly didn't come with a back plate, I'm wondering if the back plate is actually necessary.  The inducer being replaced was new as of 2009 so I'm suspicious that perhaps this smaller hole somehow restricts airflow thus causing strain on the inducer motor which led to a failure after just 3 years.  On the flip side, perhaps the smaller hole is necessary because it plays some role in protecting the fan blades from being overexposed to high temperatures via the larger 3.5" draft hole.

Any help from an expert would be much appreciated.  I assume the plate is necessary but want to be sure I'm not going to need a new inducer again in 3 years.

The Inducer Assembly

!

The back plate and/or mounting bracket with 1 5/8" hole.

!

The inducer assembly with back plate in position (covering most of the open fan space)

!

While those answers may apply to some degree, I know the plate does create a restriction, which causes a slight vacuum in the blower section.  This vacuum is used on some furnaces to actuate the diaphragm pressure/vacuum safety switch.  If you have a diaphragm switch hose leading from the blower housing, then you'll find the furnace will not start gas flow unless that plate is in-place and creating the vacuum signal for the diaphragm safety switch.  Ask me how I know...  duh.


What kind of tool is used to stir paint in a can? The paint(3+ months old) in my can has separated but I'm not sure what kind of tool to use to stir it.  It is latex paint used for indoor purposes.  Does anyone has any recommendation on what tool to use for the stirring?

You can get a mixer tool that attaches to a power drill. This does a much better and faster job than the wooden paint stirring sticks you can pick up at any paint store.


Can NM cable be installed in a junction box mounted to a floor joist in an unfinished area? I understand that NM cable can be run along and through floor joists in unfinished areas of basements.  However, can the NM cable then be installed in a box mounted on the joist, perhaps for a light fixture or an overhead receptacle?  Similar to the photo.
Edit: Thanks for the answers so far!  Specifically, I am asking with regard to code requirements that NM cable be protected.  In the situation shown in the photo, is the NM cable sufficiently protected to meet basic code requirements or is EMT conduit required?
Edit: The location would be Joliet, Illinois, United States.  According to the city website, the city uses NEC 2014.  The area will be an unfinished utility area that is adjacent to and on the same branch circuit as a finished hallway and bathroom except the GFCI receptacle.

You can definitely use joists to support light and switch boxes. You just need to think it out and know what type of fixture is going up there. Recessed lighting needs a little more planning as they are usually installed between joists. Happy wiring.


My garage sensor beam keeps going out of alignment I have a standard automatic garage door with a pair of garage door sensors. One sensor has a light which registers green when the sensors are in alignment. The problem is that, once or twice a week, the sensors somehow decide they are not in alignment anymore, and I have to get out of the car, jiggle them a bit until the green light comes back on, and then go on my way. Sometimes when I jiggle the sensor the green light comes on, but then (without doing anything) it slowly fades off after 15 seconds or so. At that point, I jiggle it again and it works for another week or so. Or worse, I jiggle it so that it lights up green, get back into the car, and then it has stopped working again and I have to repeat this twice. The sensors honestly seem to allow for a fair amount of wiggle room in the setup, so I'm wondering if there could be other issues with these sensors that I could troubleshoot/fix.

They're pretty cheap and simple devices. Maybe yours are dirty inside or the light is getting weak.
First, be sure they're well aligned and not just on the edge of the range. Use a string pulled taut past each to achieve parallel and level.
Then, look at  cleaning them. Dust, grime, and insect nests may be clogging the lenses. You may be able to pull a screw or pop tabs apart to get inside and check things out.
Finally, buy a new pair. They're not terribly expensive. Just be sure of compatibility as there are several systems and some just won't work.


Is it safe to remove 2 "extra" jack studs to make a 60" wide door opening wider? We went to install our new main entrance 60" door (replacing double-door with single door and 2 sidelights).  After we received the new door and shaved out more of the sheet rock, we saw that there were 2 jack studs on EACH side supporting the header (so a total of 4 jack studs).  To fit the door in, we would have to remove 1 jack stud on each side of the header.

The door "expert" where we ordered the door from said that he had never seen an extra jack stud on either side and that they were probably put there, at some time, to accommodate the installation of the current (smaller door).  He thought it would be OK to remove them.  The carpenter said he would put a metal corner bracket to ensure stability and load transfer from the header to the a single jack stud on each side.

Does this plan sound like it would compromise the structural integrity of the framing?

The use of two jack studs under each end of the header could have been done for any number of reasons.

If the header supports a lot of weight from above it may have been
deemed desirable to have the extra support on each end.
If the header has an long span it is sometimes desirable to add
additional support for the header.
As you suggested it is possible that the rough opening was
originally made wider than needed for the door that was actually
installed.
The original contractor may have wanted there to be extra wide solid
wall support at each side of the opening than the normal 3" offered
by just one stud + jack stud. It is not at all uncommon to do this
for large window openings in professional construction where it is
known that drapery hardware will mount beyond the width of any
window casings.


Open steel columns on construction site exposed to heavy rain? Last night it rained heavy on a home site where 8, 20ft / 6x6," steel columns (not galvanized) were under the rain as they were sticking up vertically from concrete foundation columns where the bottom of the steel columns were welded to.

What can I do to try to eliminate the rust that may have started inside the columns?

It sounds like you have 6" square tubing columns which are welded at the base to embedded plates in the footings. That there is no top plate thus allowing rainwater into the tubes.

Standard practice is to drill a "weep hole" just above the weld at the base to allow for drainage. Ordinarily, the weep hole works to allow normal condensation to drain, but in your case it will relieve the unexpected rainwater as well. Someone should have temporarily capped those open ends.

I would probably make a single hole 5/16"ø or 3/8"ø on a 6" tube. Usually these are done prior to erection at the fabrication shop at the top and bottom of each tubular column, but easily accomplished in the field.

If they are not already painted and the ironworkers are still on site, ask them to heat up the bottoms of the tubes to evaporate any collected water after the weep holes are drilled - afterall, it was their responsibility to protect the ironwork.


How to prepare walls after skim coating? Our contractor just finished skim coating drywall/plaster walls. It seems like the walls are still dusty from sanding, etc. what do I need to do to prep the walls for priming/painting?

I obviously need to get rid of the dust. Do I wipe it down and then wait for the walls to dry again? What else do I need to do?

Damp towel. It picks up the dust, it doesn't really get the wall particularly wet.


How do a replace an old baseboard thermostat with a wifi thermostat? I don't know if this is a dual pole or single pole thermostat (n00b here, don't know what I'm talking about). I don't even know what voltage this is (240 or 120).

But here's a photo of the wiring:

I bought a wifi Honeywell which includes a number of different wire connections in the back (says, "will not operate without the wire C connected"):

1) Will this work, or do I need a different thermostat for a baseboard heater?

2) I see three wires connected to the old, knob-driven thermostat: red, black, and white. BTW, the old thermostat says Load is black and Line is red. Which wires do I connect to which terminals on the new wifi thermostat?

FYI, I did turn off the power at the breaker. That switch connects to 3 thermostats+baseboard heaters in total. The thermostat I'm working on is only connected to one heater.

Get a different 'stat

The thermostat you have is designed for low voltage (24VAC) systems such as gas furnaces and heat pumps.  You'll need a line voltage thermostat instead (and yes, wifi line voltage 'stats are a thing.)


Can I run a T5HO ballast with significantly lower wattage T5NO bulbs? I gather this is generally possible, as long as bulbs draw less power than the ballast can provide, but are there limits on how low you can go?

I currently have an electronic ballast for 1 or 2 54W T5 F54T5HO bulbs and two F13T5 bulbs. The specifications on the ballast don't list anything close to that wattage.

What are the consequences of running 1 13W bulb on a ballast that can support 2 54W (besides wasting the hardware)?

That's not how it works.

Unlike incandescent bulbs, florescent bulbs do not draw a particular amount of power - they are rated to handle a particular amount of power. They are actually "negative resistance" devices - which basically means they will draw an infinite amount of power if you let them. (Specifically: The more current that goes into them the lower their resistance, which then allows even more current to flow into them, reducing the resistance even more.)

The job of the ballast is to prevent them from doing so and refuse to feed them more power than they are rated for.

So it's the ballast the controls the power NOT the bulb, and if you tried what you are suggesting you will put 54W of power in a bulb rated to handle 13.


Should I connect the bare ground wire from the main panel to the grounding bar in the subpanel? I have a main panel that was converted to a sub panel when a new Main Panel was placed in a new addition to the house.  So now, the subpanel appears to have two grounding wires connected along with the neutrals on the bus bar (middle right). The fat bare wire on the left is the Main Panel grounding wire that is not being used.  Most of the grounding wires, in the subpanel appear to be grounded down the wall cavity to a copper pipe in the crawl space.  All the outlets show a correct installation with a receptacle tester.

???Can this type of incorrect installation (ground to neutral bar) cause the following???:
I've lived in the house for two years now.  Recently, the living room lights have started to flicker once in a while.  The power will shut off for about 1/2 second.  This might happen 2-3 times before shutting off completely.  No breakers get thrown.  After 1-10 minutes or so, of me doing nothing, the power comes back on.  These symptoms are now more and more reoccurring.  This occurs even with nothing turned on except a surge protector, modem, and router.  Maybe the breaker is bad and the grounding to the neutral bus bar is incorrect?

I plan to replace the subpanel (use modern parts), use a insulated neutral bus bar, a separate grounded-to-the box grounding bar that will ground to a copper pipe in the crawlspace.  I'm not sure if I should connect the bare ground wire from the Main Panel to the grounding bar in the subpanel?  The subpanel and main panel are in the same house and are about 20 feet away (20' wire travel).

1) Replacing the subpanel is a very good idea -- FPE Stab-Loks are absolute junk that have a well-known propensity for failing to do their job when called upon, and also are susceptible to faults in the busbar-to-breaker contacts (high resistance/overheating) that are documented to cause the symptoms you're seeing -- this phenomenon can develop into a full-fledged electrical fire!

If a complete replacement of the subpanel is impractical for whatever reason, there is also the option of gutting the box and using one of the Eaton CH retrofit kits to replace the innards.  Since your box is a mere, oh, 7" wide by 11" tall, this requires an Eaton RWCH6L125N retrofit interior, the matching cover (a CRWCH6ML of the appropriate size), and the appropriate Eaton CH breakers (it looks like you can use a CH220 and a CH250 along with a pair of CHT1515s, but I'd need to know more about what this subpanel feeds in order to specify for certain).

2) You will need to run a ground wire from the subpanel to the main panel, and separate the ground and neutral bars in the subpanel; however, you do not need a GEC + grounding electrode for a subpanel in the same building as the main panel, as such an installation falls under NEC 215.6:

  215.6 Feeder Equipment Grounding Conductor. Where a feeder supplies branch
  circuits in which equipment grounding conductors are required, the feeder
  shall include or provide an equipment grounding conductor in accordance with
  the provisions of 250.134, to which the equipment grounding conductors of the
  branch circuits shall be connected. Where the feeder supplies a separate
  building or structure, the requirements of 250.32(B) shall apply.


Circuit breaker trips when ANY light switch on the circuit is turned on The circuit breaker for our kitchen lights trips instantly when I turn on ANY light switch on that circuit. It is 6-month-old new construction and everything worked just fine until a week ago. And then this behavior suddenly started without us changing anything.

It is a 15A circuit with five switches:

Switch #1: Lutron Caseta wireless dimmer with 6 LED recessed lights (7.6W each)
Switch #2: Lutron Caseta wireless dimmer with 8 LED recessed lights (7.6W each)
Switch #3: Lutron Caseta wireless switch with 4 LED exterior lights (10W each)
Switch #4: regular toggle switch with exterior motion detecting flood light (36W)
Switch $5: regular toggle switch for pendant lights but no lights installed yet.

The circuit breaker looks like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-15-Amp-Single-Pole-Combination-Arc-Fault-Circuit-Breaker-HOM115CAFIC/202353305?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-27795-483420-&clickid=VB9TeuUQPxyOWTXwUx0Mo34GUki2SIXtR1fETE0

With no switches on, the breaker remains on.
If I turn on any of the switches 1-3, the breaker instantly trips.
If I turn on the switch 4, the breaker trips in about 2 seconds.
If I turn on the switch 5 (no lights), the breaker doesn't trip.

The breaker has a white "test" button. The test button trips the breaker ok.

Given the fact that breaker trips when turning on ANY switches with lights installed, can this be  due to a faulty breaker? But again, it's brand new and I don't know how likely it is.

Or can it be a faulty switch? But the breaker doesn't trip when no switches are on. Can a faulty switch cause other switches to trip the breaker?

Also, I don't know why the breaker trips after 2 seconds with the motion detect light, while it trips immediately with other lights.

What are some possible explanations for this behavior? Is there anything I could try before hiring an electrician?

UPDATE 1: Per @ThreePhaseEel's suggestion, I tried the Square D breaker's built-in diagnostics (holding down the white test button and turing on the breaker), and it tripped immediately. According to the instruction, it means "Fault to ground (arcing to ground, grounded neutral, shared neutral, ground fault)". What can cause this after 6 month of use?

UPDATE 2: I checked the switch wiring. AFAIK, the wiring looked ok. However, switch #5 seemed faulty because my pen-type voltage detector detected voltage from both black wires even when then switch was off. I changed it to a different switch. Switch #4 was backwired but no wire's exposed.

I tried to untangle wires so that no wires/switches are touching anything, but sadly the breaker continued tripping even after that with turning on any of switches #1-#4 (instantly for #1-#3 and in 2 seconds for #4).

Guess it is time to call an electrician, but I'm attaching the pictures of the switch boxes in case anyone can find anything suspicious.

One thing I forgot to mention above was that both switches #1 and #2 are originally wired as 3-way (switch boxes 1 and 2 below), but they are wired as instructed in pages 3-6 in https://www.casetawireless.com/documents/0301710a_caseta%20advanced%20inst.pdf with remotes.

First, all our answer rely on your claim that your breaker is "just like this one". That one is a CAFCI.  If your breaker is somewhat different, then all our advice is no good. The good news is Square D takes button color pretty seriously, and white-button Square D's should all be CAFCI.

Chasing an arc fault

Move through each of the switches, then receptacles, then lamps and check these things.

Ground wires touching screws.  Make sure that as the devices are pushed back into the box, you don't have a ground wire getting near a hot or neutral screw.

Backstabs.  Arc fault breakers were initially developed for electric blankets. But they discovered they were really good at detecting another wiring fault: Backstabs.  Backstabs are when you have #14 wire and you just jab it into the provided hole on the recep or switch. .  The mechanism is surprisingly hokey - after all you are getting 4 of these for 50 cents.  They regularly cause circuit burnout, and AFCI breakers are proving they cause a lot of arcing before they burn out.

So I recommend working through the switches and receps on that circuit. For each backstab connection, firmly pull and twist the device back and forth while pulling the wire steadily out (no need to waste wire length unless you have loads of it). Then move the backstab wire to the nearest screw.  If the screw is already occupied, someone is cleverly using that trick to do a splice, and you should pigtail those 2 wires together with a pigtail going to the switch.  I do not recommend getting any fancier than that, or else you need to take a crash course in replacing receptacles - issues like tabs broken off, 3-way terminal colors, all that jazz. It's way more complicated than it ought to be.

Wire nuts.  Bad wire-nut jobs are a common cause of arc faults.   First, are the wire nuts taped?  Exception: A wire nut on a single wire should be taped (otherwise the nut will fall off).

Tape on a wire-nut usually means the installer has learned that wire-nut connections will fall apart if not taped. That is because the installer's bad technique. The same thing that makes them fall apart also makes them arc.  So, the moment you see tape on a wire-nut, take it off.  Then, give the wire nut a "pull test".  Grab the nut proper and pull hard on each wire one at a time.  If the wire pulls out, that was a bodge job that needs to be re-done.   Make sure the bared section is at least 80% of the length of the wire nut and no more than 95%.  It will stick out initially, but get sucked in as you twist.

Wire length is precious - do not cut off the curly bits, just coarsely straighten them.  Put the wires back together with ends even.  Then put a new, good wire nut like an Ideal brand on it, and crank HARD, and clockwise - same as screws, bolts and nuts.   DO NOT pre-twist - if you are tightening hard enough, the wire nut will do that for you, believe you me!  If the wire nut is not twisting the wires, you're being way too much of a soft touch. This is one place where you want "gorilla tight, not monkey tight".

Now you do a pull test on it just like that, and it better pass with flying colors.  If not, refine your technique.

If you're having trouble getting multiple wires to stay even as you set them up, feel free to tape the wires together, say into 2 groups, about 2" back of the wire end, before putting them into the nut.  Then nut it, remove the tape and pull-test.


Why is my furnace leaking, and what is it leaking? I have a Honeywell Beckett oil burner/furnace that is less than 8 years old. We've lived in our home for 6 years now, and it has been running like a champ the whole time (no problems whatsoever). Most years I turn the furnace off in May once the weather warms up seeing that we have electric for our hot water and don't need to burn fuel oil during the warmer months. This past fall (September 2015) I had it maintenanced/cleaned just to tune it up and make sure it was still in good working order.

This past spring (Mar 2016) we had a flood in our basement and the water got several inches deep. Within hours I was able to pump it out and the furnance continued to run like a champ (again, no problems at all).

The last several weeks have been very hot (mid-90s) during the day, but fairly cold (low-40s) at night, and so I have not yet turned the furnace off like most years.

I just went down into my basement and see/smell this:

What is going on here?!? What do?!

CRITICAL UPDATE

So things just elevated by several orders of magnitude (in between my posting this question last night and this morning).

This morning I just happened to get up early. I was downstairs on the computer and heard the furnace kick on. I figured I would go down into the basement and see if I could see anything visibly leaking.

Instead, what I saw was far more horrific. Billows or dark grey smoke were pouring out of the vents and piping of my furance. I quickly flipped the kill switch for my furnace, turning it off, but the smoke kept pouring out.

I readied pitchers of water in the event flames broke out, and began the procedure of evacuating my family from our home.

Luckily, after about 10 minutes the smoke cleared out, and I am continuously monitoring it every 10 mins or so. I think we're out of the "woods", as far as house fires go. Had I not woken up to do make some open source contributions, I likely would have woken up with the entire house on fire, or perhaps not woken up at all. Thank you GitHub.

From what little I've been able to research so far, I think what happened here was a "puffback" (I don't have enough rep to post more than 2 links - just Google "oil burner puffbacks"). I think I have an oil leak somewhere, which explains the oil sitting around the base of my furnace (in the photos above). And when the furnace kicked in just 30 mins ago, some of that pooled fuel started to ignite. So I guess, now, I'm looking for someone to help me confirm my suspicions.

I know it's in the comments, but I feel it's important enough to place in an answer:
Never EVER throw water on a fire that is , or might be, oil or gasoline - based!
If your furnace does not have an automatic thermal cutoff valve on the fuel line inlet, you're out of code (at least in Massachusetts), and should definitely have a plumber install one.
Keep a fire extinguisher that's rated for gas/oil/volatiles near your furnace; but if a fire starts, always call the fire dep't.  They know how to check for hidden "hot spots" .


Avoid rust where railing anchors into concrete If you have seen railings anchored into concrete, you may have noticed how they tend to rust at the junction between the railing, the concrete and the air. Here is a photo of a pretty typical example:

How can this be avoided when building a new railing?

Honestly, I don't think you can. The problem is railings such as this rust from the inside out. The outside gets primed and painted while the inside never gets any kind of treatment.

Aside from using solid "tubing", which is unrealistic, the only other thing I can think of is to "try" to treat the inside of the tubing in areas where water can seep up in to the tubing, such as an anchor point.


Will a window insulation kit help with heat loss in the winter? I have shutters over my windows, but I can never have them open in the winter because, when I do, my room gets very cold. I do not believe that my windows are drafty as I cannot see light around the window's periphery, and I was wondering if a window insulation kit may allow me to have my shutters open in the winter without getting cold. Will it?

Here is the kit that I am considering: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AXXCUC/ref=twister_B00G7KO1XO?th=1

It's tough to say if it will help you in your specific situation, and if so how much. Without getting into that specific kit you linked, those types of products can't hurt anything, so you don't lose much by trying it out. But whether it will make an impact on your heat loss depends on a few factors - the quality of the product, how well it's applied, and most importantly, where you are losing heat.

If all your heat loss is through an under-insulated attic, shoring up the window insulation won't do anything to affect it. On the other hand, if the windows are the main source of heat loss, attempting to insulate them better should improve things, at least a little bit.

Looking for light around windows will only show the most egregious drafts, which should be obvious anyway. Most drafts are due to poor insulation behind the trim, which won't show light around the windows. You can take a lit candle and move it slowly around the windows, looking for any deflection in the flame indicating a draft (this works best on windy days). If you see some indications of drafts, then those window insulation kits should help, although pulling off the trim and spraying expanding foam insulation is the best fix.


ITE bus stab amperage limit for tandem breakers We want to run some sub-panels off of our 100 amp, 12 space, ITE main panel. (According to another forum, Gould bought ITE in 1976, and Siemens bought Gould in 1983.)

Siemens I-T-E Load Center has the following prohibition regarding tandem breakers:

"SUM OF QT BREAKER RATING IS NOT TO EXCEED 110 AMPS PER BRANCH CIRCUIT BUS STAB."

(The quoted text is printed on the back of the panel - I copied the above from the same forum.)

Now, the above seems clear, but let me ask anyway: does that mean I can exceed that limit with non-tandem breakers?  For instance, can I have a tandem breaker on the one side, say with 2 15-amp branch circuits on it, and a 100-amp, simple breaker on the other?

I have to say it strikes me an odd limitation - the main breaker should cut off power at 100 amps...

I apologize for the silly question, but I would rather not burn the house down (or worse, go for an extended period without power when the inspector disagrees with the setup).

If I am reading your question right, then the answer to your question is yes. The reason being is that there it is highly doubtful the two non tandem breakers will be carrying full and constant loads at the same time. Of course you have to use the non-tandem breakers properly and not be using a 240V load off of them just 2 - 120V loads. This is set up to prevent overheating and damage to the bus. I am sure the manufacturer has "crash tested" these scenarios and that's why they have a restriction.

Added for clarity see comment.

I always try and use the contributors vernacular rather than trade nomenclature since it tends to  confuse people. So let scrap that and insert some definitions.

A panel is divided into pole spaces.
A full size breaker takes up one pole space and service a 120V circuit.
A two pole breaker takes up two spaces and if it serves a 240V circuit the poles are interlocked mechanically or internally.
A half size breaker serves either two single 120V circuits or one 240V circuit in a one pole space. This is sometimes referred to as a tandem or piggyback breaker. (see the confusion).

You ITE Panel states that you shall not connect two pole breakers opposing each other (one on the left side and one on the right) in the panel, if the overcurrent protection adds up to 110A.

So I believe you question is can I install one two pole breaker and two one pole breakers in opposition even if they add up to over 110A? And my answer is Yes because if for no other reason it doesn't say you can't. For further explanation I tried to explain that the reason was to prevent overheating and damage to the bus.

I also tried to explain that you can not use this as a go around to install two, two pole breaker beside each other and then just remove the mechanical tie and say "Hey its really just two single pole breakers". Which by the way violates other code rules.

I am not sure what you meant in your comment about drop. I can tell you I am not talking about voltage drop. I am talking about overloading which will burn up the breakers and bus in you panel, and I am pretty sure that is what ITE has in mind also.

Hopes this helps


Can I use an old refrigerator to produce water from air I want to take apart an old bar fridge and use the components to produce potable water through condensation.

My plan is to remove the condenser, evaporator and compressor from the fridge as intact as possible and then let it run as normal, just in the middle of the room, instead of inside an enclosed compartment, probably with some fans blowing air across the evaporator. My hope is that water condensate would drip off the evaporator and I could then catch it some how and store it in a bottle.

Is this possible? Is it practical? Is it dangerous?

If this is something I could do, are there ways in which I could improve the efficiency/safety of this system? FWIW, the area I stay in has an average humidity of about 70%.

Thank you!

You don't need to take the fridge apart, and most people tend to break the refrigeration system when doing so, so don't. Just run it with the door open. Also leaves it in more salable condition when you tire of the science experiment.

To make it more efficient, use a new, not old, refrigeration system.

To make it easy, use a dehumidifier, which is already made to do exactly this. Or an air conditioner, which is like a dehumidifier but with the hot side placed out-of-doors - that's also where the collected water is generally drained to.

The collected water will in one sense be "pure" (it's effectively distilled) but in most others it's fairly foul (every bit of dust in the air can come along and contaminate it) so regardless of what you use, you're going to want to filter or treat  (boil, for instance) the water before using it as "potable"

Finally, this is generally not a cost-effective method of getting liquid water, unless you happen to need a dehumidifier (or air conditioner) anyway.


Dishwasher won't stop filling with hot water I have a Kitchenaid dishwasher (model: KUDE40FXSS5)

Our kitchen faucet and drain frozen a couple of days ago. The dishwasher ran that night, without taking in any water. I ran a space heater, etc. and got the water from the faucet running again. But, the dishwasher now constantly runs hot water from the ‘water inlet opening’ (as the manual for the dishwasher calls it).

The searches I’ve done seem to indicate that the water inlet valve is damaged, and needs to be replaced. But, I wanted to post and see if anyone had an alternative suggestion before I get someone out to replace the valve. One other note. The hot water runs into the dishwasher whether the dishwasher is powered on, or off.

I've posted 3 photos of the dishwasher (exterior, wide shot interior and close up interior, with a red arrow marking the water inlet opening) Thanks in advance for any thoughts, or advice!

best
Walt

Definitely sounds like the inlet valve is stuck open or otherwise damaged.

It may need to be replaced, depending on exactly what was damaged.

To turn the water off, follow the water line from the dishwasher, there should be a valve where it attaches to the house plumbing, this will stop the water.  Depending on how it is plumbed it may also shutoff water to the kitchen sink as these water lines are often combined.

The inlet valve is usually right next to where the supply water hose connects on the underside of the dishwasher.

A repair technician could repair it, or an online search with your model number will find you replacement parts and instructions on how to replace it yourself.


Running low voltage wiring around HVAC equipment I added a bypass humidifier to my forced air furnace. The control panel is mounted to the return duct, and the wiring runs from the panel into the furnace fan compartment.

Wires run from the water panel, from the control panel, and from the outdoor temp probe. I understand you don't generally have to protect/conduit 24V wire and all the originally existing thermostat wire is exposed (but neat). But while I tried to be neat and made most wire connections inside the furnace, it's kind of a mess with wires twisting how they like and 4-5ft of wire that runs along the side of the downflow return duct is totally unsecured.

How would the pros run it? I'm not a neat freak and I think I'm OK code-wise, but I'd like it to not look like a "homeowner special hack job".

In that same vein, what about securing the 1/2" vinyl drain tube? I can zip tie the end to the floor drain, but the tube wants to bend & twist, and it isn't neat at all right now.

Use screw mount zipties, and attach them to the metal ductwork with sheet metal screws. To repeat what Harper said, do not ziptie your low voltage wires to electrical conduit or cables.


Temporary removal of one load bearing stud I want to temporarily remove a wall stud on a load bearing wall in order to access the floor below it. Do I need to provide a temporary support for that one stud? The time period could be a month or two that the attic above would be missing that support.

One missing common stud is unlikely to cause problems, but the best answer is to observe what happens when you remove it. Is it very tight between the plates? Do you hear any creaking or popping from above? Does anything settle visibly or by careful measurement?

One other approach would be to install a small header (a 2x4 U would do) between the adjacent studs and tight to the top plate, and support it with trimmers tight to those studs. That would leave you with a 28-1/2" space in which to work and more confidence in a successful result. When you no longer need access, simply install a stud below the header in the original location.


House with some cracks on the exterior wall We are thinking of buying this house but it has some cracks on the exterior wall...

It is clear that someone tried to patch them in the past. How bad do these look to you? The house was built in 1926 and we think it has cavity walls (although not 100% sure - the wall is 280mm thick). Inside it looks dry and there are no apparent cracks.

If we were to buy the house what would be the best thing to do about them? How much would it cost to rectify?

[Removed pictures for privacy]

If you haven't already, engage a home inspector who understands buildings and local conditions (especially with regard to soil). He or she will be able to offer a useful opinion on root causes, side effects and mediation strategy. (Depending on market conditions, the last part can form an important part of your price negotiation strategies, or convince you to walk away.)


Does air conditioning work harder or just longer? If I don't turn on my air conditioner until the inside temperature is 82 degrees and set it to get it down to 78 degrees, will the a/c work "harder" (whatever that means, i.e., draw more energy/minute) or just longer until it gets to the set temperature?  Mine is a single family home a/c unit by Trane, installed in 2004.

Air conditioners have two states - on or off. Turning the temperature down lower simply causes the AC to run longer; it won't reach the desired temperature any faster.


Bottom plate over interior drain tile I am building a basement stud wall out of 2x4s. I’m concerned that when I go to nail in the bottom plate to the concrete, I’ll hit the interior drain tile made of PVC pipe installed around the perimeter of the basement. Is there a way to avoid the pipe and would the drain tile get damaged if it’s hit with the nails?

I used anchors similar to a "HILTI 3/8" X 3" HLC hex nut sleeve anchors" that I purchased from Home Depot when I finished my basement 10 years ago. The 3" size only went about 1-1/2" into the concrete and hold very well. I blew out the drilled hole and added a little silicone sealant just to be sure no water would come up the hole I drilled. Everything worked out well. If the PVC pipe is below where you will be drilling, that 1-1/2" to 2" deep hole should not come close to any drain pipe. This worked for me.


Refrigerator Water Line Connector I currently have a PCV water line to my fridge.

I’d like to connect a braided line to it to connect to the fridge. Is there a connector that will do this? I’m trying not to replace the entire line to my basement.

Assuming you're in the US that line should be 1/4". For the braided line you want 1/4" compression x 1/4" compression. It will have a fitting at each end with a rubber washer built in and it will connect directly to the fitting on the fridge. The other end of that line in the photo will have the same fitting.
Google  "1/4" icemaker braided line"


Can I move a GFCI outlet from the end of a circuit to the middle to protect another oulet? I have a single, feed cable that comes up behind my counter into a single gang box. This box has an unprotected outlet.  This cable is then teed off to the left and right.  The left cable feeds a GFCI close to the sink.  The right feeds another unprotected outlet.  All three are over the counter and, I believe, should be protected.  Here's the question:  can I replace the center outlet with another GFCI and use it to feed the right outlet?  I seem to remember something about not being able to use two GFCI units on a single neutral fed circuit due to differential currents causing one or the other GFCI to trip.

Any thoughts or answers are greatly appreciated!

You could move the GFCI outlet to the center box and have it protect a regular outlet by the sink.  A GFCI outlet has "line" and "load" terminals.  The line side is for the incoming power.  Load is for downstream, regular outlets that need protection.

Pigtail both outlets to the load side of the GFI in the center box. They don't need to be in a linear chain or anything.


How can I extend existing vinyl siding downward to cover top of concrete foundation? Our new-to-us 1930's home has vinyl siding, but the bottom row of the siding doesn't extend down far enough (see photo). There isn't a starter strip installed that I can find anywhere, either. It looks like the house had some kind of yellow cement board material installed over wood, originally, and then vinyl siding was installed over that about 20 years ago according to the neighbors. The wood in the photos sticks out about 1" away from the house. This isn't attractive, and more importantly, that wood is constantly getting wet from rain running down the siding. So whatever I put there would need to minimally extend down another inch or so, and preferably wrap around the exposed wood to rest against the concrete foundation. Right? The siding is sun-exposed (but in good shape otherwise) so I'm sure that I won't find an exact color match. Perhaps some kind of metal flashing is called for here? We'd like it to look better and to better protect our house. By the way, I just repaired, scraped, and painted the concrete foundation to a similar color as shown in the photo. Thanks for all of your help everyone.

I hope the sketch says it all.
I can elaborate if you have questions


Removing rusted screw and wingnuts from toilet tank My toilet tank is held in place by two screws, which have rusted so much that the shape in their head is almost completely disappeared.
On the opposite side, they are held in place by two wingnuts made from plastic. I tried to losen one of them with pliers, but that only ended up in one wing breaking off.

Main question is: what is the best way to get it off, given the wingnuts?

I'm aware of this other question, and this is the answer I like most, which suggest using a mechnaic's nut cracker, but I have a few follow-up questions to that:

Is there a way to remove the bolts without cutting/drilling/breaking them? (Not that I need them, I'm just afraid of damaging the tank or the bowl in the process.) E.g., I read somewhere else that WD-40 might be enough, but did anyone actually try this with success? Also, where would I put it: between the wingnuts and the toilet bowl? Or below the head of the bolt? (It would be quite difficult to get into both places...) Or maybe with some rust-solvent?
Can the wingnuts also be broken by the mechanic's nut cracker? (Obviously, plastic would be easier to break than metal, but the shape might not make it easy to access.)
Also, as far as I see, this is a tool mostly for car shops (as the name suggests), so I guess a plumber would use some other tool. Which one would it be?

The two rusty bolts inside the tank:

A wingnut:

EDIT: Proper name for wingnuts.

UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the input. Yesterday I was able to remove one wingnut by gripping it really hard with pliers adjustable sized wrench. However, the screw itself is stuck, together with one gasket on the top, and one on the bottom.

The other one moved too a few turns, but it came to the point that now it is rotating together with the screw (and I could not find a way to stop the screw, because the head is so rusted).

When I had the same problem, I took a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to the bolt heads. Just be careful and try not to touch the grinder to the porcelain. Also dont grind so long that you heat up the bolts to much and be careful not to melt any plastic bits in the toilet with the grinder spray. When you are done grinding, make sure you clean out all the slag and dirt that you generate. If you only grind inside the tank, you dont have to worry if you slip a little, any marks you make will be hidden when you close the tank lid!


What is the Best mixture ratio of Portland cement Quartz sand and bonding agent for under water application I'm installing a ceramic mosaic in the bottom of my concrete pool and wondering what is the best mixture of white Portland cement Quartz sand and a bonding agent to apply this mosaic.  Can I just use white pool plaster to install?

Are you sure you don't want to be looking at a hydraulic cement or mortar rather than just Portland cement?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_41334-96-00924_0__?productId=3033247

Or something like this?  http://www.superior-industries.com/pro_patch_600_product_271.html

I'm not trying to advocate specific products or brands, but illustrating examples of products that are actually designed for underwater use.

If you were looking at one-off repair of loose or detached tiles, you might consider an underwater adhesive:  http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200?N=5510818+3294314622&rt=rud


Iron stair case - terrible fixing We have a nice old staircase with iron balustrades.

But at the bottom of each is some horrible fixing, we are unsure what it is for - maybe a build of paint as the stairs were painted at one point in the past from previous owners.

Does anyone know what it is and if it can be safely scraped away?

Yes you can clean it up, but hopefully what is under it looks better that what you see now.

It looks like somebody's sloppy caulk job.


How to excavate hole when only 30% of perimeter is accessible to tractor? I need to dig a circular hole, 20 ft in diameter, and approximately 4 ft deep. The shape is important, it shouldn't be approximately a circle, but a nice clean circle. The bottom can be flat or round, doesn't matter. I can clean it up with a hand shovel afterwards, but want to minimize manual labor as it is a big hole.

If I use a backhoe like this in the picture, the backhoe can only park in a couple of places.
In the illustration below, I've marked red areas where there is something in the way preventing the tractor to park. Mostly these are short stone walls, fencing, swimming pool, etc. I tried hiring a contractor to dig the hole, but he said he'd smash down my stone walls and break many things to get the job done, so I want to try myself and be more careful.

(illustration not to scale)
Basically I can only park the backhoe along 1/3 of the perimeter of the hole. Dirt will be piled nearby and taken care of later with a skid steer.
Is it possible to complete the project, being only able to park the backhoe along this limited angle?

Not sure why this is a problem. You drive in and dig the farthest part first, with a lot of trips back & forth to bring each bucket of dirt all the way out. Then you work out a couple of feet at a time. Exactly the same thing you would do if you were shoveling by hand and putting the dirt in wheelbarrows.
Mark the entire circle at the beginning. The biggest issue I see is making sure you don't dig too much. Unlike Kindergarten drawings, you must stay inside the lines.
Really not that much different from a much more common problem - how to paint the floor of a room. Start at the farthest spot from the door and work your way backwards to the door so you don't literally paint yourself into a corner.


How to touch up cabinet doors? I have several wooden cabinets where the finish appears to be coming off. How can I repair this?

With flash on

With flash off

Wondering if there's an easy to touch these up?

Was also wondering why this was happening? These are the 1st cabinets I've ever owned which were stained, typically I've had painted cabinets.

Looks like the finish is releasing due to moisture or heavy use. The way the color comes off may indicate a lower-quality all-in-one finish, rather than a conventional penetrating stain/varnish overcoat approach.

I'd purchase a matching stain (somewhere in the mahogany or cherry range) and wipe that on. If it does well, apply semi-gloss polyurethane or acrylic varnish to the affected areas. You'll need to cover an entire board to get a reasonably good finish, so plan on masking off the inset panel and varnishing the entire frame (once you confirm that the sheen will be acceptable), or varnish the entire door.

For a really nice repair you'd need to strip or sand the old finish off, but with routed profile frames like this that can be difficult.


Sliding wooden patio door getting harder to open/close We have a sliding wooden patio door that keeps getting harder and harder to close. I notice every now and then that when I do close it wood shavings fall from the top, and I can tell where they're getting shaved off in the door frame.

What can I do about this? Do I just need to manually shave the door frame a bit? It's kind of an older door so I'm not really sure what kind of maintenance I can do.

If the door panel, the moving part, is not clad (covered with metal) on the outside, the easiest way to remedy the problem is to plane about an 1/8" off the door itself. The weather-stripping is part of the jamb so it will not be affected. The interior side of the track will have a few screws holding it place. I see one screw hole in the picture, looks like it is missing the screw. Remove the rest, that piece should come out, and the door panel with it. If there is a place in the jamb where the door is loose compared to the other places, move the door to there to get the top to tip out, it will be heavy...

As a note I would draw some concern why the head is dropping, unless the bottom sill that the door rides on is rising. Either will cause the same problem. Swelling wood from leaks in the siding or flashing or other things that happen over time.

Although this will not address the potential problem, that is, why the head has dropped, if that is why the door head drags, you may be able to run a few 3" screws into the track at the top and draw it up a little, that way if there is any room for it to go up, that will make that happen. Do not put the screws in the middle of the jamb, do put them in the middle of the operable track that the sliding door panel rides in. Headers are usually made with 2 pieces, with a 1/2" space in the middle. That's why no screws in the middle.

If the sill is raised up, check to confirm with a real true, stable, straight edge. If it is riding up in the middle, that is bad, usually there are no ways to send a sill down, usually they are set in sealant, and gravity does the rest. Very few have screws set to them, it is a leak potential.