What tools should I use to remove the tongue and groove from floorboards? I have a big pile of high quality tongue and groove floorboards that I would like to reuse as decking timber for a small-ish deck.

The trouble is I don't quite know what the best tools to use would be to cut off the tongue and grooves and get the boards to a standard width.  I was thinking that there might be a way of converting a mitre saw to a table saw and do it that way.  Is that feasable?  Also I will need to round off the edges of the resawn planks.  What could I use to do that?  I've got a budget of around $600-$700 for new tools (e.g. a reasonable quality mitre saw), but I'm not sure if that would be adequate by itself.

I don't mind doing things a little bit inefficiently, but I don't want the project to become a massive time sink either.  Any suggestions?

First, a disclaimer: Make sure the wood you are going to use will stand up in the environment you're placing them in. You may be better off using these with the T&G on an indoor project. Weather outside will quickly weather non-pressure treated wood, and decks typically require thicker boards than you'd have inside since they don't have a sub-floor.

For long cuts along the length of a board, the best tool is a table saw. And the second best would be a circular saw with a jig. If you don't have plans for more projects like this, or simply need to save space, then the circular saw makes more sense. Setup a jig with a long straight edge that you can run your saw along and clamp it on top of your boards to be cut.

To smooth the edges, a router would be best. You could also use a block plane or sander. I'd be tempted to get a belt sander to make this project go quick and to give me the chance to cleanup the finish on the boards at the same time. A small orbital sander would also work and have other uses around the house, but it would take a lot longer and wouldn't be as useful if you want to cleanup the finish on the boards.

This is not a recommendation for a specific vendor, sample images only.


What type of lumber should I use for narrowing a recessed hole in my bathroom wall, to be used for a new cabinet? I'm putting in a new bathroom cabinet, and the hole is 1 3/8" too large on both top and bottom, and 1/2" too large on both left and right.  What type of lumber or cut would I use to shim this?
The existing hole is surrounded by 2x4's on all sides (studs and whatever the horizontal version of studs are).  My plan was to just cut pieces of the right size and nail them to those.

You could use almost any wood that happens to be the right thickness. Multiple pieces even - e.g., multiple layers of plywood.
However, I would definitely use screws rather than nails. Nails will hold just fine, but I find that screws with a decent battery-powered drill/driver are a lot easier than nails, especially when working in relatively small spaces.


How do I add a P-Trap to a copper drain? I started to get a smell in the downstairs bathroom and after ruling out the wax seal on the toilet it is coming from the sink drain. We are in a split level so technically its in the basement.

Strangely there is no P-Trap, just a drain that goes into the wall and I assume straight into the sewer line as the drain doesn't come out on the other side (a garage is on the other side of the wall).

Is there a reason for not having a trap?

The main question: How do I install one. I am quite handy and have no problems working with PVC but wanted to get advice on how I disconnect the copper (is it copper?) drain and what I would use to go Copper -->PVC (links to home depot welcome!).

I am assuming i use a blowtorch to melt any solder but want to check first as I don't usually work with copper. If it was a pressurized line I would call a plumber but I'm confident with guidance I can add the trap.

What size is that copper?  You can get plastic p-trap kits in 1-1/2" and 1-1/4", and these can be easily connected to your copper via slip ring compression fittings.  Basically they consist of a nut with a cone-shaped plastic washer, which when compressed by the nut squeezes against the (copper) pipe to create a seal.  Usually these are only on the sink side of things and the wall side has glued-on plastic but you can use the compression fittings on both ends.

Here is a 1-1/2" Plastic p-trap

If you want to solder, a better solution than using a compression ring on the wall side would be to sweat on a copper x female adapter, followed by a male PVC adapter and a PVC trap adapter.  Better yet if you can find one, just use a brass copper trap adapter like the following:

A less desirable but acceptable solution would be to use a fernco fitting to go from the copper to PVC, and then you can avoid soldering.


What is the best way to hang a heavy dynamic weight from a flat ceiling with joists? I want to hang something like http://www.skychairs.com/ or similar in my living room. If the joists were exposed I would mount a beam between two of them and hang over or through that. However, when the joists are hidden behind drywall or sheetrock or other ceiling material this doesn't seem to be an option. Putting an eye screw into the middle of a joist might be ideal, but scares me in a few ways (strength of the screw, weakening the joist, unscrewing over time, etc). What is the best way to approach this problem?

Just because you can't see the joists doesn't mean you cannot use your beam approach for exposed rafters. The structure is essentially the same, except for a thin layer of sheetrock between the two, which has little impact on the forces involved. The best thing to do is distribute any concentrated load over multiple connections. Use a flat 2x4, or better yet 2x6 that's long enough to span 4 joists, about 4 to 6 feet. Place the chair connection at the center using a large through eye bolt, using an over sized washer to spread the load into the wood. The nut and bolt end will end up punching into the ceiling, but that's OK. Holes are easy to patch if the beam is ever removed, otherwise, it doesn't show anyway.

Attach the 2x beam to each joist with two 1/4" dia. lag screws. Use a screw long enough to penetrate 2 inches into the joist material, probably 4 inches. Drill a 5/32 inch pilot hole before placing each lag to prevent splitting the joist. The resulting 8 screws is more than adequate to support any adult and will not significantly weaken the joists.


How can I get rid of the weeds and moss growing between the paver stones in my driveway? I used the extra strength roundup to kill the weeds.  Now I have brown weeds that are still rooted in the soil between the paver stones in my driveway.  I've been scraping the weeds and moss out with a screw driver but, darn, that's a tedious job.  I'm hesitant to power wash them away because I don't want to disrupt the sand and risk the paver stones coming lose.

If I were laying this driveway from scratch I'd use polymeric sand to prevent the weeds from popping up, but alas, the previous home owner was very shortsighted.

I'd seal it with a little cement mixed with sand, about a 1:4 ratio. Choose a dry day, brush in thoroughly, then sprinkle with a very very fine shower of water.


Fence gates with two holes for lock and handle I have a wooden gate and an iron gate, both have holes similar to how entry doors have for a door knob/lever and dead bolt.

I'm not sure what kind of lock sets I need to install. I thought about the quickset and other types of locks but I'm not sure how well they'd handle outdoors.

Searching online only results in fence latches, but I already have the holes in the fence.

Those are set up for standard (door) lock-sets and that's what you should be searching for.  As far as which will perform best outside, that's a good question for a locksmith.  I wouldn't get my hopes up on the cheapies.


How do sound-dampening drywall clips affect the ability to hang objects on the wall? I'm evaluating options for sound-proofing drywall, and am considering sound-dampening clips such as Genie Clips.

In this approach the drywall isn't directly mounted to the wall studs.  How would I hang objects that would normally be mounted through the drywall directly to the stud; such as a wall-mounted TV,or shelving?

The sound dampening system you describe builds a metal frame rigidly attached to clips that have rubber isolation bushings. There are two possibilities in attaching items of significant weights.

Directly to the metal framing

This would spread the load over the entire metal beam, much like attaching it to a steel stud. It would not be quite as supportive since the beams are not directly attached to each other or to a sole and top plate.

This approach would probably be sufficient for almost any load a conventional stud mounted approach might support short of things that involve dynamic pressure, such as a punching bag. As usual, mor attachment points spread out the load and reduce chance of failure. I would at least double the number of mounting screws/bolts.

However, such a  mount might slightly compromise the acoustic benefits since the object would be rigidly attached to a steel member which could transmit some vibrations. Less of an issue with object that do not vibrate or emit sounds. You also need to ensure that you hit the steel beams but miss the studs and clips. If you hit the stud with a mounting screw, you defeat the clip's isolation function.

Using heavy duty drywall anchors

There are several possibilities discussed in this answer. I would tend toward the newer toggle type anchors that use a 3 inch metal bar to spread the load behind the drywall.  These are probably the strongest anchors after direct stud mount. Using a toggle also isolates the load from the steel frame. Drywall is less resonant than steel, so there is less chance of compromising the acoustics, but the panel may act as a bit of a drumhead.

You might want to think of ways to free float heavy objects in front of the wall, on an easel or something similar.


Why does my kitchen faucet's handle get hot while not in use? My kitchen faucet is hot after it sits for a few minutes. The valve is off. How do I handle the problem, which just started?

Hot plumbing fixtures can mean an electrical problem.  There's enough leakage current to make something warm but not enough to trip a circuit breaker.  The fixture is close enough to ground potential to not give someone a shock.  One way to test for this is to cut power at the circuit breaker to any circuit that is near the kitchen plumbing.  If this keeps the faucet from warming up then keep the circuit off and call an electrician.


How do I properly wire GFCI outlets in parallel? I have two countertop outlets in my kitchen that I am in the process of replacing with new, GFCI-protected outlets. These two outlets are on a circuit together, and they are the only loads on that circuit. After wiring the new outlets up and testing them, I noticed an odd behavior. When tripping the "upstream" outlet, the "downstream" outlet does not receive any power. I assume this is because they are wired in series.

Is it possible to wire these two outlets in parallel so that when the "upstream" outlet trips, it won't cut off power to the "downstream" outlet?
Would this a wise thing to do?
Would it be up to code?
If so, how do I do it?

Edit: I realize now that I have confused series and parallel with inline and not inline. Thank you all for clearing that up and for such great answers!

GFCI receptacles have two sets of contacts, line, and load.  The Line side of the receptacle is used to power the device, while the load side is used to power other devices down the line.  Any device connected to the load side of a GFCI receptacle, will be protected by the GFCI receptacle.

For example, if you have a setup like this (which I assume you have).

There is no need to have a GFCI receptacle as the second receptacle, since it will already be protected by the first GFCI receptacle. Because of this, if the first device trips all devices on the load side will not be powered (as you have noticed).

You can use pigtails to connect the receptacles like this.

But in a setup like this, you'll be required to have a GFCI receptacle at both outlets. The devices down stream are no longer protected by the first GFCI receptacle, because they are not fed by the load side of the device.

FYI:
This is what it would look like if the receptacles were wired in series.


How do I remove this doorknob? We live in a townhouse built in the 40s ... probably renovated in the 50s ...

I want to replace this doorknob with one that has a key lock.

I can't figure out how to remove it!

I was able to unscrew the ring that holds the large plate against the door, but I don't see how to remove the knob / assembly.

Anyone seen anything like this?

There are no holes/screws on the actual knob/handle part. There's some strange looking hardware behind the plate.

Aha! It's a "Sargent". Found the answer here
http://youtu.be/VyzTw5l-xhs

Thank you, Internet!


How to remove insulation fasteners from concrete? I'm pulling a bunch of insulation from my basement to get ready to finish it, and have found it's bolted to the concrete walls. I've been able to google my way to identifying the bolts as Hilti X-SW 30 fasteners (https://www.hilti.com/direct-fastening/insulation-fastenings/r66753).

I managed to pry one out with a claw hammer, but naturally this damaged the surrounding concrete. I tried a second one and it managed to support all 200lbs of my bodyweight without budging.

So, I suppose I'm really asking two questions; How do I remove these things with minimal damage? And assuming some damage is unavoidable, what's the right way to plug the resulting holes and fix the damage?

If it's relevant, my plan after this is two coats of waterproofing paint, followed by XPS rigid foam insulation.

I would suggest a crowbar for removing them. The overall length of the crowbar body will determine the amount of force it's capable of producing. Obviously the fulcrum will be at the end against the wall where the head turns towards the fastener.

With a relatively long crowbar, your leverage will multiply significantly and they will come out much easier.

Basically - go to any home goods store and see how long of a crowbar you feel you could live with having around - the longer the better.

As for the damage to the cement - I'm stealing a page out of another website because it's well written:

  Patching such holes is a necessary part of keeping your concrete
  foundation wall in good repair. If your aim is to make the wall look
  better, a smooth surface is also easier to paint. An ideal patch to
  use for both purposes is hydraulic cement, which expands to fill
  cracks and holes as it dries.

  1 Remove loose material from the hole in the wall by probing it with
  the tip of a screwdriver or blade of a putty knife. Clean the hole and
  surrounding area with a wire brush. Vacuum any remaining dust or
  debris out of the hole.

  2 Dampen the hole and surrounding area with water using a spray
  bottle.

  3 Mix a small portion of hydraulic cement in a clean container
  according to package directions. Stir the cement with a putty knife
  until it has the consistency of thick peanut butter. Make only as much
  cement as you can use in three minutes or less.

  4 Pack hydraulic cement firmly into the hole with a putty knife or
  trowel. Smooth the surface of the patch as quickly as possible before
  the cement sets.

  5 Spray the patch lightgly with water several times over the next 24
  hours. Allow the patch to cure for 48 hours before painting, or for as
  long as recommended by the manufacturer. Things You Will Need

Screwdriver
Putty knife
WIre brush
Wet/dry vacuum
Spray bottle filled with water
Hydraulic cement
Clean mixing container
Trowel (optional)

  Tip

  Unless the wall is well shaded, it's best to apply hydraulic cement early in the morning when the wall surface is cooler so the
  cement won't dry too quickly.

  Warning

  Wear rubber or latex gloves when working with hydraulic cement.

Those notes apply to an interior or exterior cement surface. With a proper putty knife technique you will have a very smooth surface ideal for painting.

Happy fixing!


Inconsistent hot water We are currently doing a full en-suite bathroom remodel.  About 2 weeks ago all of the plumbing was completed and about the same time we noticed that we weren’t getting as hot of water in the other bathroom we have been using as well as the kitchen sink, etc.   I gave it a few days and no change so I called the plumbing company that installed our 50 gallon Rheem Pro atomospheric tank in late November 2017 as I figured something might be faulty.

They came this morning and as usual, everything seemed “reasonable” to him upon inspection and the tank fired up after about 6 gallons of water was run through the shower head.  He adjusted the mixing valve on the shower to allow for a bit more hot water.  Stated he felt it was our consumption which was causing the “lack of hot water”. He didn’t think it would be the dip tube cause the tank is so new.

This evening we were doing dishes and had the faucet cranked to full hot and we were getting luke warm/cool water.  I checked the tanked and the burner wasn’t even on.  I adjusted the thermostat and it kicked in.

I’m at a loss here and quite annoyed that despite’s having the tank inspected we are still experiencing issues.  Could the new plumbing be causing issues or is it entirely conincidental?  FYI the water lines into the bathroom from prior to the renovation were used just adjusted as required. The water main was turned off multiple times over several days during the plumbing install.

Probably the temperature in the boiler is set too low: you should keep it, at least, at 70°C to have enough hot water because if you keep it lower, cold water coming inside the boiler will cool the water present quickly.

Another option is that the anti-scald automatic valve has gone bad (or  is poorly set).


How to construct safe safer waterfalls for baby fish? I am building a large pond comprising three separate pools and two waterfalls. The waterfalls comprise a brick wall, with the top row of bricks removed, so that water flows over the area with absent bricks:
 _________                               _________ _________
|         |                             |         |         |
|_________|_~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_|_________|_________|
|    |       \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\|         |         |
|____|_________|_________|_________|_________|_________|____|
|         |         |         |         |         |         |
|_________|_________|_________|_________|_________|_________|
|    |         |         |         |         |         |    |
|____|_________|_________|_________|_________|_________|____|

During testing, small fish about .5" long flew over the waterfall, even though the waterfall had only a thin layer of water there. Since larger fish will be kept in the other pools, it is important they don't get swept over. I've considered placing a fine net across the top of the span where the missing bricks are, to stop fish from going over, but I suspect the small fish will still get trapped by the current and stuck in the net. There must be some technology, perhaps developed for the fish farming industry or for dams to prevent this problem.
Is there any way to modify the construction in a way that prevents the baby fish from being swept over or trapped by the heavy current absent of turning down the pumps?

set the net back from the mouth of the waterfall in an area where the water is deeper and thus the current is weaker.  be prepared to clean the net frequently.


Applying urethane to table: brush or pad? I am finishing the stain coat of my revamped desk, and I am wondering, after much enjoying using a staining pad rather than a brush, if I could use a pad for the urethane as well — or will that leave streaks?
What do you folks use to apply polyurethane, is it a brushes-only world?

well i just got done with staining and polyurethane a few projects..
i was supposed to sand smooth and coat but i just hit it with 60grit and brushed it on.
there are stain/poly type products that are applied with one step..


Lights stopped working I have 2 flush mount led lights in my kitchen....rental.  Last night, they stopped turning on. When I went up to poke around and touched them, they lit but very very dim. If I touch the mounting screw with my screwgun they do the same thing, light very dimly. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

It takes very little power to get an LED light to glow. In addition to strange glowing like you have found, this is why some LED lights will glow or flash with certain "smart" switches or timers or other special types of switches even when they are turned off. So I wouldn't worry about the glowing when you touch them.

The real question is why they are not working any more. There could be many reasons, including:

Circuit breaker tripped - that is easy to check and reset.
GFCI/AFCI tripped (which can be on a circuit breaker or elsewhere in the circuit) - that is also easy to check and reset.
Bad connection somewhere in the circuit (breaker, switch, light)
Lights "burned out" - this is actually least likely because it is unlikely that both lights would "burn out" at the same time, though possible with a big surge.

If the lights are removable "bulbs" then it is reasonable to remove the old ones and try replacements - just make sure they are the same size/type/power rating. However, many LED lights are integrated fixtures, so that may not be an option.

So check any circuit breakers and GFCI/AFCI test/reset buttons first. If resetting a breaker or GFCI/AFCI solves the problem and the breaker or GFCI/AFCI doesn't trip again then you are set. However, if you reset a breaker or GFCI/AFCI and it trips again when you turn on the lights (or turn on some other device on the circuit) then you have a serious problem that needs to be investigated.

Actually, while a single GFCI or AFCI trip can be due to lots of "no big deal" reasons, even a single regular breaker trip (i.e., overcurrent) can be a bit of a concern if there is no obvious cause.

In any case, since this is a rental, if a simple reset does not solve the problem then you really need to either have your landlord hire a professional electrician to troubleshoot the problem or hire one yourself. You can't do electrical work in a rental yourself in most locations and for a good reason: If you mess up and you are not a professional electrician then your landlord will claim it is your fault, you will claim it is was faulty wiring in the first place (the landlord's fault) and the insurance company won't pay.


Can I leave a garden hose under pressure for long periods of time? Is it okay to leave the water pressure on using a garden hose and turn the water off by just the sprinkle nozzle? My water faucet is difficult to get to.

It is certainly OK to turn off the water at the end of a hose for short periods. If you leave it on this way for long periods you are stressing the hose which could lead to a ruptured hose when you are not around. This could lead to a waste  of water or to water damage if the hose sprays on something.

In addition, this could lead to a leaking water valve because the stem packing will be under pressure. The usual valves have a seal around the rotating (multi-turn) stem, but if the valve is a "ball valve" (90 deg on-off), then this doesn't apply.

I think it is best practice to shut off the valve on the pipe when you are finished using the water.


How do I add circuits to a flush mounted panel box? What is the typical method to add circuits to a finished building that has a flush mounted breaker panel when there is no attic or crawl space to drop new runs? I was thinking of surface mounting a sub panel above the main panel and running everything new from there. Or maybe mounting a junction box above the panel that feeds into it, and running my new runs into the junction box and down into the panel.

In the trade it's called fishing walls.
Stud finders, fish tape, electrical tape, jab saw, and a drill will be your trusty friends.
Avoid cutting the walls and ceiling with wiremold box and conduit from Legrand


3 way light switch with timer - flickering I have a 3 way light switch which works fine with a regular light switch. That is, I can control on/off without issue from either switch.

I moved one of the switches to a timer, the Intermatic ST01, which according to my research, should work fine. Many people who have issues with flickering lights are advised to use this switch as it's switching mechanism works with low loads. I following the existing wire (common to common, traveler to traveler etc).

When the timer is hooked up I have the following:

Turn Intermatic On with Regular Switch Off:  Lights turn on correctly
Turn Intermatic Off with Regular Switch Off: Lights turn off correctly
Turn Regular Switch On with Intermatic Off: Lights turn on
Turn Regular Switch Off with Intermatic Off: Lights turn off (flicker)

The flickering is at a high rate, probably once or twice a second. I can hear the intermatic's switch clickign on/off during the flicker.

Any ideas on what's going on? Is it possible something is wrong with how the 3 way switches were wired before and I need to modify the timer switch/regular switch for the timer to work?

Thanks for the tips.

I had removed all the wires, taken pictures and was going to test the configuration again to double check that everything was correct. I was emptying the timer box and noticed a black wire there. I thought it was odd to see a wire there.. I re-read the instructions and it turns out I missed a step! As you can see below, there is a step "E" - After installing that wire the switches are working correctly.


My water filter faucet came unattached from base & sink. How can I fix it myself? My water filter at my sink recently became very loose! As you can see in the photo, it's unattached on two parts, the base and the sink. I'm wondering if I can make this a DIY fix rather than call a plumber or handy man to fix. Anyone have experience? Maybe a certain glue or sealant?

Fixing this could be possible to do on your own. As indicated in the comments you have already seen that there is a threaded rod under the sink that would have been used as part of a clamping system to hold the faucet assembly down against the counter top and tightened up from below via a nut and a C shaped washer that has a hole in it. If it is truly that this simply came unscrewed over time then fixing is just to reassemble it and tighten the nut from below which would require a tool. An adjustable wrench may be just the tool for that tightening.

However....it seems rather unlikely that the threaded rod simply came unscrewed over time. It would be more likely that the part that the rod screwed up into on the lower inside of the faucet assembly has broken away and this is why it suddenly became loose. Inspect the threaded rod to see if it has a companion broken part on one end of itself. Also look at the underside of the faucet assembly up in where the tubes enter to see if you can spot the place where the rod should screw into. Is it there still or does it look like it has broken up in there? In the case where the inner part has broken away it will be likely that this faucet assembly will need replacement. There will be no glue or sealant that can be used to hold that assembly in place on the tile counter top in a usable long term manner.


Projector mounting location to reduce noise With my desired screen size, the placement of my desired projector (Optome HD141X) is right above my head (approx. 1m far as the seating is elevated in the room).

I am a projector novice and thus I am not sure how much noise can the projector generate in such short proximity. The specified noise is 26dB, however, I am not sure at which distance is this measured?

So to my main question - is it worth looking at another projector, most likely short-throw, that would be mounted closer to the screen and thus further from my seating location? (3m far away for the short throw).

I quite like the projector I found and the price seems reasonable but I have no idea what to expect in terms of noise, and I would be sitting quite close..

Just as a frame of reference, 26dB is about the sound level of a person breathing. Typically these are measured at a distance of a meter from the source. Whether or not this will be objectionable is mainly a question of personal preference (and how much other sound sources such as your speakers mask it). My suggestion would be to pick up a computer case fan with a comparable decibel rating, put it where the projector will go and see if it would be a problem for you.

As far as increasing distance goes, it will obviously help. Sound level drops by roughly 6dB for every doubling of the distance, so at 2 meters it should be barely perceptible and at 4 meters you would have to try really hard to pick it out.

Bear in mind that 26dB is the claimed decibel rating, and the actual noise level you perceive can vary depending on frequency, vibrations in whatever it's attached to, etc.


Replacing sheetrock with greenboard after remodel I'm remodeling a kitchen which will have tile extended to the ceiling behind the counters.  Currently there is relatively new sheetrock installed where the counters will go.  However there is insufficient electrical, plumbing, and mounting surfaces for open shelving.  I'm debating removing some sheetrock to make my life easier.  Since the entire wall will be covered with tile, hiding the patch shouln't be an issue.

Here is my question.  I'm debating removing 5 vertical feet and replacing it with 3x5 green board.  To be completely clear, I do not care if you think this is a waste of money.  Here is what I do want to know:

I want to know if there is a really good reason, besides money, why I shouldn't do this.
Is it sufficient to cover the joints behind the cabinet with mortar or would I want to skim coat the entire thing?
when bridging the gap between sheetrock and greenboard, should I use mortar or joint compound?

I don't think you need greenboard at all since this a kitchen and not a bathroom. The drywall is sufficient in a kitchen with tile. A kitchen doesn't generally have water soaking through the grout or other area that would affect the drywall. Now if having greenboard makes you feel better that there is better protection against moisture than just drywall then you should do it.


Can I vent my portable air conditioner into my garage? I have casement windows and venting through the window is funky at best.  This portable AC is a single room unit, and I am considering a direct vent into the garage.  The garage is large (3+) with a large window.  During hot weather at least 1 garage door plus the window are open.

I did this and had no issues at all, I just open the garage window to let the heat out, also my bud who owns a heat and air company said he has done it many times on jobs. One being a fire station where they put 5 units that vent into engine bays..with no problems or issues.


How to remove magnet paint from regular drywall? Previous owner painted a 3 ft. by 4 ft. rectangle with magnet paint on kitchen wall. He/she used very heavy strokes. Paint is thick, has ugly, thick lines and bubbles all over.

I've been unsuccessfully trying to remove this thing so I can repaint the kitchen.
First, I tried scraping with a paint scraper... it didn't do anything.
Then tried sanding with coarse sandpaper... applied heavy pressure for about one hour until my arms got tired and nothing. All it did was smooth out the thick brush lines and bubbles a bit.

If I could sand it down to a smooth look, I could apply primer then paint, but even after one hour of vigorous sanding, I cannot remove or smooth the magnet paint enough.

Locate the studs on either side of the area affected.
Cut down the middle of the studs, and horizontally above and below
the affected area.
Remove drywall and bad paint.
Insert new drywall
Mud/feather/etc as per usual for patching
Paint.


Replace switch with timer, instructions don't match existing wiring I would like to replace a regular switch with a timer switch.  The timer switch I have purchased requires a neutral wire.  Looking at the existing switch (first photo), I have a black and a white wire connected to it, but I believe they technically should both be black, and I'll need to connect to the properly-labelled white neutral wires in the neighbouring box (second photo).  I've attached a photo of the current configuration and a link to the manual for the timer switch.  Any help would be appreciated.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/911538/Woods-59007.html?page=2#manual

Get a different timer

You should be able to get a different timer switch that does not need a neutral to operate -- any Leviton LTT series model will do the job in your case, for instance.


How should I use heat tape? I've been considering using heat tape this year, to protect my pipes from freezing. Are there any suggestions for the proper use or installation of heat tape, or pros/cons?

Heat tape/line is often used as a bandaid for improper installation of the pipes to begin with. There certainly are situations where it makes the most sense, but in general, if you're below the frost line and inside insulated areas, the pipe should be fine.

Think of it this way: if your power goes out for enough time, the pipe will freeze anyways, and if it bursts, you still have a major problem.

If the pipe is not buried deep enough, then you can either put it deeper, or add rigid foam on top and sides to help insulate it.

In a basement or crawlspace, it's better to insulate that space and make it suitable for running pipes, than to mask the problem with heat-tape (and get another thing that can fail).

In my experience, the heat line products that go inside the pipe seem to work much better. These work best when you also insulate around the pipe itself.

Often people put timers or thermostats on basic heat line due to the energy they use: these are both problematic. Timers don't regulate according to temperature, and thermostats measure the temperature of where the thermostat (or sensor) is, not the actual water. This is not so important with 6' tape, but definitely is with 10 or 100' runs.

There are products that are self-regulating: you give them constant power, and all throughout the line, if it's cold enough, the line (in the spot that's cold) will turn on and heat up. These use a lot less power, and are much more reliable (no timer/thermostat to fail).

As far as installation, it's fairly simple, but there are some important notes:

Install on a GFCI-protected circuit
Make sure the electrical receptacle, plugs, extension cords, etc are not in a place where they can be submerged in water (I have seem them in well pits outside)
Not all heat line cannot be cut: For these, you have to order it in exact length
Becareful not to damage the line during installation, as for many lines if they're cut or the contacts are broken the whole thing is garbage. This means: don't nick it, don't bend too sharply, don't crush/pinch it, etc.


How do I get crisp, clean edges in the corners where two paint colors meet? I am about to renovate my room. A part of this plan includes painting all but one wall and the ceiling white, the other wall will be bright green. My walls are lightly textured and if this makes any difference, the original surface under most of the walls is plaster and lathe (with the exception of the wall being painted green, which is drywall). The surface I will actually be painting over will be the previous coating of yellow semi-gloss paint that is about 20 years old.

So here's my question... How do I get crisp, clean edges in the corners where two colors meet (keeping mind that these are semi-gloss walls and are textured)?

Use painters tape (blue tape, Frog tape, lots of different names and brands) to mask off the areas you don't want to paint green.

First, paint your ceiling and 3 walls white (2 or 3 coats, however many are needed) and wait for the paint to dry. Then, apply the painters tape to those walls and ceiling as close to the 4th wall as possible. Next, and this is the most important part, go back with the white paint and "seal" the edge of the tape with a light thin coat. Failure to do this will lead to green paint bleeding under the tape, and you'll wind up with sloppy lines at the corners. Textured walls are a pain...

Once the white paint is dry, go ahead and paint with the green, using however many coats you need. Peel off the tape carefully and enjoy!

Most painters tape says to peel off within 14 days, so you could tackle this project over two weekends if needed. Also, if you seal the tape with too thick of a coat, some of that paint could come up when you peel the tape off, so don't glob it on.


Hinge with part perpendicular to other I'm searching for the name of a hinge that looks like this for my project:

Middle part should be able to turn almost 90 degrees on both sides. Does this kind of hinge exists and if so, does it have a name so I can find it more easily?

I made the picture myself by the way. If I can't find a hinge like this I will probably have to make it myself by welding a metal plate on the back of it. I'm trying to avoid that because I don't have welding or soldering tools.

It's possible I'm picturing wrong what you're trying to do, but perhaps a cabinet hinge like this?

I don't know if that hinge will be strong or robust enough for your application.  Cabinet hinges don't really have to endure much force.  You might be better served with what is apparently (aptly) called a "center-mount hinge":

Which sandwiches whatever is supposed to pivot.


How do I fix a ceiling fan that won't turn off? I have a ceiling light/fan fixture in one of my rooms connected to a single electrical switch. There are two pullchains on the fixture, one that controls the light, the other controlling the fan. I'd expect the fan chain to switch it among fast, slow, and off. However, whenever the switch is on, the fan motor is running, and the chain just switches between fast and slow.

Is there something wrong with this fixture?

Is it just wired wrong, and should have two separate switches?

Depends on how it is wired. The single switch will control the fan and light simultaneously. If you want the light off, then you pull the chain for the light. The nice part about having the light on a different switch is you can simply go into a room without having to turn on the fan every time and have a nice bright fixture in the room. The downside is that you have to hit the switch every time since the pull chain kind of loses its purpose and is now redundant.

Now, whether you have three speeds or not is up to the manufacturer of the fan. Most fans made recently have three speeds. We have to know the make/model to find out for sure. Doubt it is broken though.


How do I know if an asphalt surface needs planing or not? Outside my house and my neighbours houses (UK) is a stretch of about 35m x 7m of private road. I'm talking to various companies about them resurfacing the road. They are split into two groups:

Some are saying the road is in a very bad state of repair, and needs to be planed off (i.e. the existing road surface scraped off) before laying a new base and top asphalt/tarmac surface.
The others are saying the existing surface is generally ok to use as a base, and only about 10sqm needs to be dug out and filled where it's broken up. So they are saying they would just lay a new surface on top of the existing.

How do I know which is the right approach? What is the usual point at which a road is deemed to need digging up and rebuilding from the base layer?

Whether to plane the surface or not before an overlay is a complete judgment call. You are comparing the general condition of the current road in combination with it's current thickness. An overlay needs to bridge underlying imperfections and absorb differential movement. The more massive the underlying tarmac, the more likely it is to overwhelm the overlay's ability bridge and absorb. Which results in the cracks and such in the old surface reappearing in the overlay.

Planing the old material off reduces it's mass so the overlay has an improved chance of bridging and absorbing imperfections. Planing alone is commonly similar in cost to an overlay, so doubling the cost of the whole job sounds about right. The risk of not doing it is that the overlay is overwhelmed and imperfections appear prematurely. The next time around, planing WILL be required. Now you've paid three times the overlay cost in a short period. Paying for planing now can prevent paying for it in the near future.

The risk of planing is spending money when it is not required. If the overlay alone can absorb and bridge imperfections adequately, it will last just as long as if it were planed first, so planing is a waste of money.

It really takes someone with a lot of experience in road work to make this kind of judgment. There's no formula where you can enter the level of damage and the thickness and get an answer. I've seen well qualified roads people argue back and forth if planing is worth it or not, so it comes down to who you feel is most trustworthy and has the experience and judgment to honestly assess your situation and make a recommendation considering your needs and not their profit margin.


How can I make a rubber cover for my hammer? I have a hammer (wooden handle with steel head) that I love (kind of an heirloom) and I like using it for lots of things. Its great for most jobs, but there are some things where I don't want the steel hammer head to make contact with what I am hammering. Instead of going out and buying a separate rubber hammer, I want to create a DIY hammer accessory whereby I slide on a rubber sleeve or cover on to the head. This way, whenever I encounter the kind of tasks that require a rubber hammering end, I can just put the rubber cover on and hammer away.

The trouble is, I'm skeptical as to how feasible this idea is. I haven't seen many rubber products out there that are close to being the right dimensions to fit snugly on my hammer. For example, I found some hammer covers on amazon but they are actually whole rubber head replacements and they interface with a screw threading. I just want a slide on cover.

Then I thought, maybe I can call up a rubber manufacturer and say: "hey uh, want to help a brother out?" but I think that's most likely going to be a difficult course of action because I don't know any one who works in that industry and I have a sinking feeling if I want a custom mold they will need a minimum order (like 1000 pcs or something).

Here is a visual representation of what I'm after:

EDIT My hammer is pretty much like this picture, wooden handle and everything. One difference is that my hammer head is actually a square, 1.25"x1.25" Depth doesn't matter so much, but I'd want the rubber cove to probably be around the .25-.5" range. Sorry for not providing this information earlier; just realized how important it was :(

Question: Is there an economical way I can tackle my thus far hypothetical DIY rubber hammer cover project? Or alternatively, is there a product out there somewhere that could work for my task?

Further Clarifications:

rubber cover must slide on snuggly to my hammer
ideally, for DIY approach, I'd like it to fit perfectly (tailor made feel) if that's possible
budget is $20
must work with my heirloom hammer (no buying other rubber hammers as replacement)

A rubber crutch tip could work. They come in different sizes. I bet you can find one that will fit nicely.


Is there a standard length on the PVC furnace pipes coming outside the exterior? We have a high-efficiency furnace.  Two pipes are coming outside the house as expected.  However, right now, there is at least 2 feet or more of extra PVC on the exterior showing.

Is there any harm in removing this extra length for cosmetic reasons?  Also, what is best to use on the endcap to prevent debris, etc. from entering?  I have seen these triangular looking endcaps, but not sure of the name.

There is an overhang above the pipe. I'm guessing 1.5 - 2 feet.

The pipes have to be long enough to clear any overhang or roof.

This is to ensure that the exhaust gases don't collect under the roof. This could be a fire hazard (if the gases are hot), though this isn't that likely, or a health hazard (there'll be high concentrations of CO2, or even CO, in the gases. If these re-entered the house it would be a definite health hazard.

There could also be a lot of moisture in the gases and you don't want that condensing on the overhang either.


How to fix a door that closes, but is still too close to the frame, causing the hinge to pull out I installed a new door that closes, but the door is too close to the frame on the bottom hinge side. This causes the bottom hinge to close completely before the door is closed, which leads to the hinge pulling out of the frame when the door is closed.  How can I fix this hinge?

Additional background: I bought a solid core door.  Trimmed .25" off one side. When I originally hung it, it fit perfectly.  I took it down to paint, and now it's slightly warped on the bottom hinge side (less than .25").  Any ideas how to prevent warping?  What paint and primer should I use?

The problem with the hinge pulling out is caused by the mortise being too deep either on the door or frame.  Look at both sides of the hinge and determine if one or both are recessed below the surface of the wood stock.  Remove the offending side of the hinge and shim it out flush to the wood surface with some solid cardboard cut to fit the mortise. Reinstall the hinge over the shim. This should allow the hinge to close completely without putting pressure on the hinge screws.

As far as warping is concerned, that is not normal. Would have to see a pic or have a better description of the problem in order to address it. You mentioned cutting .25 inch off a side. How did you do that?  If not cut perfectly straight, that may be a factor in your hinge problem.


Wiring for Ceiling Fan and Light I removed an old ceiling light/fan fitting. There were 4 wires coming out of the attic into this old unit: copper, red, black, white.

I have a new light/fan combo to fit. It only has 3 wires: green, white, black.

How do I join these?

Then for the wall switch:

There used to be 2 switches; one for the fan, one for the light.

The new wall switch is a single unit with a light button and a fan button on the front. There are 3 wires coming out the back; green, black and white.

How do I wire the wall fittings?

Many thanks if you can help.

I'm assuming the new switch came with the new light/fan unit.  In that case, cap the red wire in both boxes.  It must be a communicating switch.  So wire it as you would any single-pole light switch and light.


How can I lower a sink trap to accommodate an appliance drain connection? As shown in the picture below, I'd like to extend a U sink trap to receive drainage from an appliance. However if I replace the dip tube (marked as 1) with variant that has the extra input, the U trap is shifted down too much and the second part becomes too short.

Unless I add some extension piece at (2), the dip tube (1) cannot be longer (cannot be pulled out more) than shown on the left picture. However the appliance drain input of the new dip tube as shown on the right requires me to push the whole U trap downwards, and then I have a gap at number 2.

Is there any piece that can bridge this gap? The U trap has (male) screw threads on it on both ends, and the other pieces are tucked in as dip tubes and are fastened with those female rings. I can not find any piece that would fit there.

One piece I tried looks as below. The female end of this fits the U trap at point 2 perfectly, but its male end is not compatible with the final pipe piece that goes into the wall. The size of the screw thread is compatible but the last pipe piece has a notch that prevents pushing the screw ring close enough to the extension piece that it would fit. (I can add a picture of this if it isn't clear.) It is possible to do it anyway by sawing off a few millimeters of the final piece at connection 2, but cutting it manually doesn't result in a clean enough cut, so it ended up leaking. My suspicion is that this extension piece is not meant to be placed male end upwards and female downwards.

But is there such a piece in existence that is actually designed to fit here?

There are two different connections that you're dealing with. The tailpiece from the sink into the p-trap (the connection at #1) is called a slip joint. The connection at #2 is made with a union (and sometimes with a gasket).

I'm not aware of a fitting that would work for you but maybe by looking at this plumbing supplier's website you might find what you are looking for or a least the terms for that you need.


Is this a ground wire in my ceiling light canopy? I just installed a ceiling light fixture, which has a feature I've never seen before. The fixture has the traditional white, black, and green wires. I attached the white and black fixture wires to the corresponding black and white source wires, and the green fixture wire to the bare copper source wire.

The unfamiliar feature is that the canopy has a twisted copper wire attached to it, on the inside. I included this wire with the bare copper and green wire connection, assuming it was another ground wire. Now I'm not sure about it. Should I have just left it unattached?

If it was a bare wire it definitely was a grounding wire. Considering your description I can only assume it was there to bond the canopy.


What termite treatment is needed for reclaimed wood being used indoors I've saved a handful of planks from my old back fence after replacing it, and plan to turn them into indoor furniture (coffee table, etc.).  After some experimentation I've decided I want to seal and finish it with oil-based polyurethane and no stain.

But I'd like to know if I should take any special measures against drywood termites beforehand.  I'm not keen to use anything strongly coloured or to drill holes in it, as is required by so many wood treatment options, because the wood's being used decoratively.

Various sites suggest orange oil to kill off anything still living in there and to break down pheromones which might otherwise attract more termites, but I wonder if this job isn't already taken care of by the solvents in the polyurethane.

Could I simply thin my first coat of polyurethane using orange oil?  Or will any (more appropriate) paint thinner do just as well against termites?  Or do I need a dedicated treatment beforehand?

This is an interesting question.  I just read the wikipedia article on orange oil.  While this stuff comes out of an orange and is widely thought of as "natural" and "organic" and "safe", it seems like a pretty good description of it might be "turpentine from an orange".

I don't think you are likely to get an accurate and definitive answer to your question.  No matter which way you go, you will be taking a small risk.

If you think about it...all wood came from a tree, and most trees have some bugs in them.  One would think that kiln drying would kill the varmints, but who knows for sure?

If it were me, I would just finish it in the normal way and keep an eye on it after bringing it in the house. Your mileage may vary.


Is there a functional electrical difference in a wire splice vs a second line The three wire connections as shown.

A splice

O-rings bolted

Double slide-on

I can understand why there may be connection type diferences for ease of construction.

Are there any electrical differences in how they would transmit power if all wire were the same gauge?

In an ideal world -- these would be identical, and from a purely electrical standpoint, they basically are.  But, we live in the real world, where connections have parasitic resistance and badly made connections can do naughty things while in the process of falling apart due to vibrations etal.

The heatshrunk-over splice can be very good or very bad -- a properly made linesman's splice (also called a Western Union splice) is a robust creature, but is best used with solid wire as it does not work nearly as well with stranded wire.  However, a poorly made splice has a habit of well, disintegrating over time -- and the ensuing arcing is quite the problem-causer.

The stacking of multiple ring terminals on a nut and bolt is standard practice when terminal blocks of that type are used -- it is a solid connection when performed correctly using a locking washer or nut.  It does seem that that is absent from the terminal block in question; however, in the context of an appliance, I would leave it in the as-manufactured configuration (clearly, the maker isn't concerned enough about vibration shaking the bolted joint loose to put the lockwasher in).

The final termination -- a double crimp into a female tab crimp terminal -- is also standard practice in chassis wiring.  When made using a proper crimp tool capable of ensuring a gas-tight, cold welded crimp -- crimped terminations are as reliable as any termination scheme out there, and do not care about solid vs stranded wire.  In fact, they have a long history of reliable service in aviation and other such mission-critical applications.  And considering the factory floor isn't going to use a $10 set of crimp pliers, this is the most reliable termination of the three.


Cooker Hood with Off-set flue required I need a cooker hood with an offset flue.

There is a rafter right where I need to go through.

Whilst searching I came across one that had quite a wide flue that may just work (better measurements needed).

Does anyone know of a hood with an offset flue or anything similar ?

cheers folks

TheOldMan

The flue is just a duct, either plastic or metal, so you could create your own offset using standard fittings for the given diameter. If it's a plastic flue you can box it in. If you want an exposed metal flue you could ask someone to weld one.

You can also get flexible concertina-type flues, both metal and plastic. Not as nice to look at nor as efficient as a smooth flue but they might work for you.


cement board around bath tub I am having my bathroom renovated professionally. Is it okay to have a crumbled edge in the cement board that causes a small gap where it meets the tub? Or does it need to be replaced?

That gap should be filled with grout or mortar first before the waterproofing (probably RedGard or some other paint-on rubber thing) is installed.


Ballast failure replacement NOTE: As someone gently told me, it's not neon tubes but fluorescent ones. So I let your replace it while reading it.
I have a setup with two neons, in « U » shape, controlled by a ballast that has... failed or something. Now, both neon flicks and, kind of a black oil sort of thing sunk from the ballast.

So I went to the store with a picture of the setup

and he gave me the ballast
.
I'm not quite sure on how to connect existing fixture to new electronic ballast. As once I'll remove old ballast, fixture still have 1 yellow, 1 white and 1 black plus 2 reds and 2 blues wires. And, the electronic balast, 1 black, 1 white, 2 blues and 1 red wires.
What is the good setup?
I kind of feel like if it's not the good ballast for my installation.

It’s completely the wrong ballast, who sold this???? Never shop there again.  Wow!
That ballast is an instant-start type for huge 8’ long tubes (2438.4 mm).
The ballast you want is the very common dual F40T12.   And you want a rapid-start or programmed-start type, as that will have the same exact wiring as you already have.


New gas range setting off smoke/gas detectors I converted our kitchen's range to gas. The gas line was installed professionally but I connected the new stove. As part of setup I heated the oven to 350 to test the burners. Soon after reaching temperature the house alarms went off. I think that it was monoxide not smoke. I was running the exterior vent but it isn't above stove.

Is this normal for a new oven, should I run a self-clean? Do the oven burners need to be adjusted? Do I need an exhaust hood (I've had houses with gas ranges but never a hood, and we rarely use the exhaust fan but it seems like everyone has hoods now)?

Yeah, you really need an externally vented hood. Sorry, but gas stoves put out both carbon dioxide and even worse, some amounts of carbon monoxide, which is much worse.  While it may not be an enormous risk, it's still important enough to vent combustion gases from a gas range to the outside. Really!  All you have to do to kill yourself is forget to turn off a burner or oven and go to sleep and not wake up again.   Sorry, dude, but you need an externally vented hood.


Why is water profusely coming out of my shower head when the water is boiling in my water heater? I just got my water heater fixed as previously it wasn't heating up water. When I turned on the water heater later on, at first there was nothing wrong since it takes time for heating element to heat up the water to a hot temp. But once the water started to really get hot in the tank, then water started spurting out profusely, almost as if someone turned the knob to let some water out but not to the full shower 'strength'. It just kept spurting out really hot water until I decided it would be safe to turn off the heater until I figure out whats wrong. I'm guessing theres something wrong with the pressure seal on the shower head? Might it be that the pressure in the water tank is forcing out the hot water as the water begins to get very hot? Also, is it safe for my family to take a shower while its like this?
Update: I realize the problem might actually be with the shower head. After inspecting it more closely I noticed its a bit busted up and its not spraying water well. One of my family members must've dropped it on the floor this morning. But I'll get a new shower head soon and we'll see if that fixes the problem.

I just got my water heater fixed as previously it wasn't boiling water

A water heater should not raise the temperature of the water to 100℃ (boiling). You should not have any boiling occurring anywhere inside your household hot-water systems (excluding vessels used for preparation of food or hot drinks such as kettles and saucepans).

In my part of the world, a home water heater has a thermostat that determines the maximum temperature of the water, this thermostat cuts off the source of heat when the water reaches the set temperature. Perhaps you have a faulty thermostat, the wrong type of thermostat or one set to an incorrect value?

  is it safe for my family to take a shower while its like this?

There are two main health aspects of water heating systems:

preventing pathogens multiplying in the water
preventing people from being scalded

The first, primarily concerning Legionalla, is prevented by storing water at ⋝60℃ and ensuring it is ⋝55℃ at outlets.

The latter conflicts somewhat with the first. You need lower temperatures to prevent scalding of vulnerable individuals (babies, elderly, etc) The UK HSE suggests water at the outlet needs to be less than 44℃ to prevent scalding.

One way to reconcile this may be to have a thermostatic mixer close to the outlet - this will mix a small mount of cold water with the hot to reduce the temperature slightly. One place where you normally find these sorts of thermostatic mixer in the UK is under washbasins inside washrooms for the disabled. In most houses though, the temperature is just a compromise between these two risks and is not regulated using a thermostatic mixer.

Many showers include a thermostatic control that prevents the shower producing water hot enough to cause scalding.

  I'm guessing theres something wrong with the pressure seal on the shower head?

As Mike Baranczak commented, this is almost certainly not the cause of your problem.

In the types of shower familiar to me, the shower head plays no role in shutting off the supply of water. You might have a shower head that can be rotated to produce various patterns of spray, some feeling softer and some feeling more vigourous, but this doesn't much affect the flow rate or shut off the flow.

You shut off the flow of water using a valve much lower down than the shower head. This valve is part of the shower controls that you use to set temperature and flow rate. There is a valve that is either directly operated or operated by solenoid (often the case in electric showers which use electricity to heat an insulated element that heats cold water passing through the shower unit)

  Might it be that the pressure in the water tank is forcing out the hot water as the water begins to get very hot?

The water heater should have some means of handling excess pressure. Often it will have a pressure relief valve that vents excess pressure safely. Some older designs have the pressure regulated by a header tank.

If the pressure is high enough to force excessively hot water past a shut valve, there is probably something wrong with the heater, the valve or both.

If you need more specific help, you could edit your question to add details of make and model of heater and shower contols and shower head, together with photos of those items.


Why install a hidden GFCI outlet controlling sink outlets, ceiling lights, vent fan, and floor heater? In a recently remodeled bathroom, a electrician installed a GFCI outlet in a linen closet which controls two outlets near the sink, a floor heater, the ceiling lights, and the vent fan. Only the sink outlets are near water; the lights and fan are outside the shower.

Why wire the circuit this way? I'd like to change the sink outlets to GFCI and run the lights, fan, and floor heater in parallel, but I'm afraid that I'm missing something in the original design.

It's okay to share other fixtures on the bathroom outlet circuit like the vent fan and lights if the bathroom circuit does not feed outlets in another bathroom.  In your post you mentioned a floor heater which might be temporary and portable, but if it's built-in to the base then that might be a violation of 210.32.(A)(2) which permits 50% of 20 amps or 10 amps or less. If it's portable then the code allows 80% of 20 amps or 16 amps or less.

Other than that a GFCI outlet should always be accessible.  A linen closet isn't an obvious location for starters, and may eventually get hidden behind stuff.


Running LV conduit through attic - what do I need to know? I want to run 1" LV conduit (Carlon Resi-gard) through the attic. Basically, I am using the attic for the "horizontal" run from one room to another.

I will be sealing the hole with some caulking, but what else do I need to know?

Is it safe to just drill into the attic from the room below?
Does the conduit have to run above the insulation (stapled to something), or can it just lay on the floor of the attic?
I think it would be best to break the conduit with at least one "pull box" in the attic. Would that box need to be a closed gang box with a blank plate? Or can it be like any other LV backless gang box?

NEC Article 362

I've copied the NEC portions that cover corrugated HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) conduit for your reading pleasure. The NEC differentiates between corrugated and non corrugated HDPE conduits by referring to corrugated HDPE as ENT and non corrugated as just HDPE. Non corrugated HDPE is not allowed at all in any buildings, whereas corrugated is.

Also, the NEC doesn't specifically differentiate orange corrugated HDPE from blue corrugated HDPE but instead simply refers to Optical Fiber Cable conduit as "Innerduct".

770.12 Innerduct for Optical Fiber Cables.

  Listed plenum communications raceway, listed riser communications
  raceway, and listed general-purpose communications raceway selected
  in accordance with the provisions of Table 800.154(b) shall be
  permitted to be installed as innerduct in any type of listed raceway
  permitted in Chapter 3.

Also interesting is Carlon, the maker of Riser-gard refers to "Innerduct" when comparing their different Riser-gard products. See here.
I think it is safe, in general, to compare innerduct to the safety regulations required for ENT installations.

The most important parts for you will be 362.12 Uses Not Permitted, 362.30 Securing and Supporting A-B, and 362.26 Bends.

Notably Securing and Supporting(B) addresses your horizontal attic runs which permits the rafters to support the ENT if they are not greater than 3' apart and provided you secure the ENT within 3' of every pull/junction box.

Also interesting is 362.10 which only permits buildings not exceeding three floors for exposed work.

And anything over 122°F ambient temperature is not permitted unless listed otherwise.  This may be a problem for hot summer attics without proper ventilation.

As for drilling into attics that is more a building code issue.  This answer addresses the codes for that.

  II. Installation 362.10 Uses Permitted.

  The use of ENT and fittings shall be permitted in the following:

  (1) In any building not exceeding three floors above grade as follows:

  a. For exposed work, where not prohibited by 362.12

  b. Concealed within walls, floors, and ceilings

  (2) In any building exceeding three floors above grade, ENT shall be concealed within walls, floors, and ceilings where the walls, floors, and ceilings provide a thermal barrier of material that has at least a 15-minute finish rating as identified in listings of fire-rated assemblies. The 15-minute-finish-rated thermal barrier shall be permitted to be used for combustible or noncombustible walls, floors, and ceilings.

  Exception to (2): Where a fire sprinkler system(s) is in stalled in accordance with NFPA 13-2013, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems, on all floors, ENT shall be permitted to be used within walls, floors, and ceilings, exposed or concealed, in buildings exceeding three floors above grade. Informational Note: A finish rating is established for assemblies containing combustible (wood) supports. The finish rating is defined as the time at which the wood stud or wood joist reaches an average temperature rise of 121°C (250°F) or an individual temperature of 16.3°C (325°F) as measured on the plane of the wood nearest the fire. A finish rating is not in tended to represent a rating for a membrane ceiling.

  (3) In locations subject to severe corrosive influences as covered in 300.6 and where subject to chemicals for which the materials are specifically approved.

  (4) In concealed, dry, and damp locations not prohibited by 362.12.

  (5) Above suspended ceilings where the suspended ceilings provide a thermal barrier of material that has at least a 15-minute finish rating as identified in listings of fire-rated assemblies, except as permitted in 362.10(1)(a).

  Exception to (5): ENT shall be permitted to be used above suspended ceilings in buildings exceeding three floors above grade where the building is protected throughout by a fire sprinkler system installed in accordance with NFPA 13-2013, Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems.

  (6) Encased in poured concrete, or embedded in a concrete slab on grade where ENT is placed on sand or ap proved screenings, provided fittings identified for this purpose are used for connections.

  (7) For wet locations indoors as permitted in this section or in a concrete slab on or belowgrade, with fittings listed for the purpose.

  (8) Metric designator 16 through 27 (trade size 1/2" through 1) as listed manufactured prewired assembly. Informational Note: Extreme cold may cause some types of nonmetallic conduits to become brittle and therefore more susceptible to damage from physical contact.

  (9) Conductors or cables rated at a temperature higher than the listed temperature rating of ENT shall be permitted to be installed in ENT, if the conductors or cables are not operated at a temperature higher than the listed temperature rating of the ENT.

  362.12 Uses Not Permitted.

  ENT shall not be used in the following:

  (1) In any hazardous (classified) location, except as permitted by other articles in this Code

  (2) For the support of luminaires and other equipment

  (3) Where subject to ambient temperatures in excess of 50°C (122°F) unless listed otherwise

  (4) For direct earth burial

  (5) Where the voltage is over 600 volts

  (6) In exposed locations, except as permitted by 362.10(1), 362.10(5), and 362.10(7)

  (7) In theaters and similar locations, except as provided in 518.4 and 520.5

  (8) Where exposed to the direct rays of the sun, unless identified as sunlight resistant

  (9) Where subject to physical damage

  362.20 Size.

  (A) Minimum. ENT smaller than metric designator 16 (trade size 1/2") shall not be used.

  (B) Maximum. ENT larger than metric designator 53 (trade size 2) shall not be used. Informational Note: See 300.1

  362.26 Bends – Number in One Run.
  There shall not be more than the equivalent of four quarter bends (360 degrees total) between pull points, for example, conduit bodies and boxes.

  362.28 Trimming.

  All cut ends shall be trimmed inside and outside to remove rough edges.

  362.30 Securing and Supporting.

  ENT shall be installed as a complete system in accordance with 300.18 and shall be securely fastened in place and supported in accordance with 362.30(A) and (B).

  (A) Securely Fastened.

  ENT shall be securely fastened at intervals not exceeding 900 mm (3 ft). In addition, ENT shall be securely fastened in place within 900 mm (3 ft) of each outlet box, device box, junction box, cabinet, or fitting where it terminates.

  Exception No. 1: Lengths not exceeding a distance of 1.8 m (6 ft) from a luminaire terminal connection for tap connections to lighting luminarie shall be permitted without being secured.

  Exception No. 2: Lengths not exceeding 1.8 m (6 ft) from the last point where the raceway is securely fastened for connections within an accessible ceiling to luminaire(s) or other equipment.

  Exception No. 3: For concealed work in finished buildings or prefinished wall panels where such securing is impracticable, unbroken lengths (without coupling) of ENT shall be permitted to be fished.

  (B) Supports.
  Horizontal runs of ENT supported by openings in framing members at intervals not exceeding 900 mm (3 ft) and securely fastened within 900 mm (3 ft) of termination points shall be permitted.

  362.46 Bushings. Where a tubing enters a box, fitting, or other enclosure, a bushing or adapter shall be provided to protect the wire from abrasion unless the box, fitting, or enclosure design provides equivalent protection.

  362.48 Joints.

  All joints between lengths of tubing and between tubing and couplings, fittings, and boxes shall be by an approved method.

  362.56 Splices and Taps.

  Splices and taps shall be made only in accordance with 300. 15. Informational Note: See Article 314 for rules on the installation and use of boxes and conduit bodies.

  362.60 Grounding. Where equipment grounding is required, a separate equipment grounding conductor shall be installed in the raceway in compliance with Article 250, Part VI. III. Construction Specifications

  362.100 Construction. ENT shall be made of material that does not exceed the ignitibility, flammability, smoke gen eration, and toxicity characteristics of rigid (nonplasticized) polyvinyl chloride. ENT, as a prewired manufactured assembly, shall be provided in continuous lengths capable of being shipped in a coil, reel, or carton without damage.

  362.120 Marking. (This is usually done by the manufacturer)

  ENT shall be clearly and durably marked at least every 3 m (10 ft) as required in the first sentence of 110.21(A). The type of material shall also be included in the marking. Marking for limited smoke shall be permitted on the tubing that has limited smoke producing characteristics. The type, size, and quantity of conductors used in prewired manufactured assemblies shall be identified by means of a printed tag or label attached to each end of the manufactured assembly and either the carton, coil, or reel. The enclosed conductors shall be marked in accordance with 3.10.120.  (This is usually done by the manufacturer)


Running wire to ceiling with double joist parallel to wall I'm finishing my basement, done the framing and starting wiring for lights. One wall runs parallel to the joists, and has a double joist (two 2x8) above the top plate (the wall is right next to the stairs, running between several existing posts).

I want to put the light switches on this wall, but I'm not sure how best to run the wires. I can't just bore a hole straight up through the top plate due to the joists.

Is it code to run the wires around the top plate? I am planning to install crown moldings, would those suffice to protect the wires? I could notch the top plate, but the wires will need to go around the joist face.

Alternatively I can run the wires to through the wall and then back to an adjacent wall and run to the ceiling from there. However, there is a 4x4 post in the corner between these two walls. Can I bore two perpendicular holes through that post to allow me to run the wire at the 90 degree angle?

Edit:

Here is a rough schematic of the situation. The two walls are shown, with red marking the existing posts. The wall that runs between the posts is the wall that has the double joists on the top header. The desired location for the switch is in blue:

Edit 2:

Here are a couple of pictures. The joists are painted black, so they're kinda hard to see, but the wall with the box in it has the joists running on top of it:

And this is the corner (with the 4x4 post between the walls):

Edit 3:

Would it be possible to notch the first joist, drill through the top plate close to that joist, run the wire through the gap and protect it with a nail plate? As far as I can measure the joist is 15' long, and this falls just under 5' from the edge, so should be outside of the middle 1/3 span. Is there any requirement for the height of the wire on the side of the joist?

After explaining this to the AHJ, he proposed running NM in conduit around the back side of the wall. This took some creative bending (me being a first time conduit bender, at least), but the end result is solid and passed rough electrical inspection:


do I need to bind the edges of a remnant if it has carpet pad attached on the underside? I recently purchased a carpet remnant to use as an area rug in my living area.  The carpet remnant that I purchased has the carpet pad already attached to the carpet.  My living area currently has wood laminate flooring.  So the remnant is on the laminate flooring.  Since it is a remnant the edges are unfinished.

My question is, do I need to 'bind' the edges of the remnant since it has the carpet pad attached on the underside?  To me it seems like the pad would hold the carpet together and not cause the edges to fray or shed.

Any thoughts/ advice would be more than helpful.

Even though the carpet has an attached underlay this will not keep the edges from fraying. You will need to have the edges finished. Your carpet will last longer and look better.


Bare copper wire under kitchen sink I have a bare copper wire that runs from the breaker box to the hot water hose under the kitchen sink. The electrician did this. Is this safe, if not how do I fix it?

Carefully inspect your Grounding Electrode System

This shouldn't be it.   The Grounding Electrode System is a fat copper ground wire that goes from your service panel to any or all of:

Ground rods outside your house.  Code calls for 2 rods 8' long.
an "Ufer" ground that ties into the reinforcing rod in your poured concrete foundation
A cold water pipe where it enters the house, on the street side of the meter.  The problem is the utility could replace the meter with a remote-read meter, which are plastic.

Once it's proven out that the Grounding Electrode System is tip-top...

...then any other ground wires aren't such a big problem.

It is likely the purpose of this ground wire is not to ground the panel to actual earth (the Grounding Electrode (GES) ... But to ground an appliance to the panel (the Equipment Safety Grounding Conductor, EGC).

That is to say, maybe that ground wire isn't there to send fault current through the water heater, but rather to prevent fault current from a troublesome hot-water-connected device (cough dishwasher cough) from going through the water heater.


Need neutral wire on "smart z-wave" wall switch - don't have one To preface this, I'm experienced with wiring up AC outlets/switches/etc - but when it comes to looking at work someone else has done - this is what's throwing me for a loop. And maybe someone else more experienced will recognize it.
When we moved into our home - and this is all from my memory so may not be 100% accurate - but in this room I believe there was no light switch. We wanted to install one, and add a fan to center of the ceiling. Contractor did this for us, by putting in one of those drywall blue boxes for the switch. We want to upgrade this to a "smart" z-wave style switch - that has two terminals for the load on one side, and then a "traveler" (for 3-way, which we don't need) - and then a neutral terminal.
Here's what I found inside the box:

I see a black and white wire, and a ground coming from the left side of the box. The white and black are twisted together and capped off. Another piece of Romex comes in from the right, has it's white capped off, ground tied to the other ground, and the black and red wires go to a light switch.
If I use my Klein voltage tester, the black wire going to the switch appears to always be "hot". The black and white twisted pair also shows "hot". The shorter white wire from right Romex shows nothing as far as I can tell.
I haven't climbed up to rip open the wiring harness for the fan, but I guess I can if I need to.
I tried to connect a lead from the black/white twisted pair into "neutral" on the new switch - and it worked to turn on the light but then would immediately shut off.
Am I stuck here/unable to put a smart switch in this location without some additional work? I would hope my contractor had done something "typical" in this scenario, but maybe he didn't.
Thanks for any guidance/direction. And yes, I asked the contractor but he does not recall how he did it (he's getting kinda old).
Here’s an enhanced picture of back. Left side is black and white and ground wire. Right side is Romex with black, red, white and ground wires.

My bet: you have two switch loops in the same box here, one old and one new
From what you've said so far, my bet is that you have not one, but two switch loops in this box.  Fortunately, while the switch loop for the old receptacle appears to be an "old style" loop with just a hot and a switched-hot, the new switch loop for the fan appears to be use the current Code configuration where neutral is brought down to the switch location alongside the hot and switched wires for precisely the reason you're asking this question.  So, I'd leave the black/white pair alone, and wire your switch as follows:

Hot/Line -- solo black wire
Switched/Load -- solo red wire
Neutral -- solo white wire
Ground -- bundle of bare wires in the back of the box

This should get the fan to work normally without disturbing the old receptacle circuit.


Will a horizontal 2x4x16 sag with only compressive force on it? In brief - I want to use a 2x4 to resist the tension put on trellis posts ~16ft apart, rather than the other two options.

I'm building a grape trellis with upright 4x4s connected by high tensile wire. As with any wire setup, like a long wire fence, you usually need to brace the ends to avoid leaning. I'm thinking I can just run a 16ft 2x4 between the posts at the top, using brace pins to attach to the posts. This 2x4 wont really hold any load, as that will be held by the high tensile wire. The 2x4 is only there to resist the tension force that the wire puts on the main 4x4 posts, turning it into a compressive force on the 2x4.

Can a 2x4x16 even make that span given it's own load? And if so, is that compressive force (it should be straight and level) going to force it to sag?

FWIW this is really to avoid the other two options - 1) angle the posts at 60deg so the tension forces the posts into the ground, or 2) build large H braces on the ends.

Yes, it will sag. I'd guess anywhere from 1-3 inches over time, depending on the moisture content and grain.

Whether it's still able to resist compressive forces isn't dependent on that, though. It'll fail laterally (on the thin dimension) before it'll fail vertically due to sag. You should use a T configuration or a heavier (or metal) rail.


Is Electric Central Heating worth it if using Solar Panels? I understand that electric heating is less efficient and comparatively more expensive than gas heating (propane or natural gas), but considering I live in Texas (a lot of sunlight) and I intend to install solar panels, would it be cheaper and more effective to install an electric heating system instead of gas heating?

Note: my home is about to be built, so the hassle of (re)moving pieces and pipes would not exist in this case.

Passive solar design before you build

On a new build, your very first stop is passive solar design.  Strutting forward and designing a bad old stickhouse, and then bolting on solar as an afterthought, is wasteful.

Passive solar design means engineering the building so it does not need active heating (except on rare occasion.  The occasion is rare enough that you can get away with cheapie resistive electric heat).

One way to make passive solar work is to angle the windows and overhangs so the buildings reject sun by summer, but drink up sun by winter... And capture the prevalent temperature (solarization by winter, shade by summer) in the building's rather considerable thermal mass.  This does not happen by default obviously, you have to swerve out of your way to design the building for that. Design time is the time to do this.

Another method is to make a building partially earth-sheltered, so that by summer, you have an easier time resisting solar heat. Several feet of earth is great insulation and you can't beat the price. Obviously you have to compromise that with having a nice well-windowed home.

Another design aspect is heat pumps, though with passive solar design they are 99%  of the time in A/C mode.  And ideally you want to interchange with groundwater as your ultimate heat sink.  See, normally, AC/heat pumps are pushing heat "uphill": it's 90 degrees out, and you want your house at 70, so you're dumping the heat in the 90 degree outside air - "pumping uphill".  If your ultimate heat sink is 55 degree ground water, you are "pumping downhill".  It's still pumping, but it's much more efficient.

Think about what it means for heat-pump (A/C is a type of heat pump) efficiency when the pl, since it is cooler than you want your house to be, and therefore in A/C mode, your heat pump is "pushing heat downhill. Which makes it more efficient.

The overall point is, don't design for inefficiency just because it is conventional, and then try to bolt on efficiency as an afterthought. Really explore the state of the art.

Another option is a double roof.  It doesn't need to be a contiguous roof; it just needs to put the primary roof in shade.  Solar panels might do that, but firemen are usally kitchy about covering too much of your roof with solar panels.

Use the grid as a buffer... or not?

How your electricity is billed is a big factor. If you are on net metering, meaning every KWH the solar generates unwinds a KWH off your bill, then you are using the grid as a storage device - you can run a 9pm dryer load using power you generated at noon.

However if you are paying peak/off-peak charges, or are credited a lower rate for reverse-flow power than forward, then you want solar to operate when you are at energy consumption peaks - in other words when  the A/C is working the hardest. The good news is that A/C requirement is due to solar load, which is exactly what makes solar panels work, so they work in unison.

The bad news is, in reality, A/C need considerably lags solar load; 3 hours after sunrise my house is chilly, 3 hours before sunset it's unbearable, even though they have exactly the same solarization as far as the panels are concerned.  I suspect that is the house's normal thermal mass at work. That is why one strategy is to greatly increase that thermal mass and insulation, to greatly slow that rate of swing.


how to stop the smell of cigarette from other units coming into our bathroom air vent Few months ago, I bought a unit in a new mid-rise condominium and we live on the top floor. When the owner of the units below me moved in after 2 months, I started to smell cigarette smoke in our bathroom when it is not in use as our ventilation switch is connected to our light switch. Me and my husband does not smoke and he also complained about it. I complained it to the building management and they told me that the ventilation pipe is shared with the other 3 floors below me. So it explains why we are getting different smells in our bathroom such as the smell of a viand, which I don't mind. I don't mind the other smells penetrating into our bathroom but what I hate the most is the smell of the cigarette smoke.It is strong and sometimes it reaches our kitchen and living room. I have allergy rhinitis and the smell of cigarette triggers this and oftentimes, I have an asthma attack due to the allergy rhinitis. I've also seen my doctor about  this. I've complained this again to our bldg management and they already talked to the unit owners below me but they don't seem to listen as we still smell the cigarettes.

What should I do to stop these smell from coming in? Is there a way to reverse the flow back to their units and prevent it from coming to ours when we don't use our ventilation/bathroom? Please help me please.

That is a tough situation and I think the only real solution is to have separate ventilation pipes.  Is there a clause in your agreement that addresses the issue.  I would do some legal research before bringing it up again with building management.


Central heating pressure dropping Some time ago, I asked this question.  The problem I had was that the pressure in my central heating system was dropping, and I couldn't find the leak in the system.  I'm now convinced that I don't have a leak.

I've heard that cold weather can cause heating pressure to drop, and this relates to the overflow pipe from the heating system.  So my follow up questions are:

Is this true?  Can something outside the house freezing cause the pressure inside to drop (and if so, why)?
How can this be fixed?

I really hate to say this, but your suspected problem is probably way beyond the capabilities of a DIYer. If you are still having problems, it may be time to call in a pro. I have not seen any good answers to this kind of question here on the Stack. I don't think we really have a HVAC expert here.  Bite the bullet, find a really competent tech with the right diagnostic tools to find and fix your problem. What you are losing in comfort, fuel effiency , and potential fuel costs might be more than the bill from a proper repair. You may have an equipment malfunction and only putting off the inevitable.


How much weight/many people can my rooftop deck hold? 2“x12”x20' joists, 16“ on center, 2”x4" framing under How much weight/ How many people can my rooftop deck hold?

The joists are 2"x12" over 20ft, 16" on center
The framing under the deck is typical 2"x4" framing (living space), on a concrete foundation

The deck was built in 1980 up to code. I went through the permits, but was not able to find a weight rating in there. Everything was approved & inspected.

The allowable load on the deck depends on the species and grade of your 2x12’s.

You said the deck was “approved and inspected” and it met “Code”. Therefore, I’m assuming the joists at 16” o.c. are Hem-Fir No. 1 grade or better. In addition, I’m assuming you have at least 1 1/2” bearing at each end and there is solid blocking (or adequate joist hangers to hold the 2x12’s in line) in order to meet Code. Because you called it a deck, I’m assuming it’s outside and is pressure treated (incised). (Incising reduces the strength.)

Joists spanning 20’ at 16” o.c. can support a “Live Load” (people and furniture, etc.) of 30 lbs. per square foot plus a “Dead Load” (framing, decking, etc.) of 10 lbs. per square foot.

30 lbs. per square foot is slightly below Code. (Code is 40 psf). If you use Grade: Select Structural, it will meet the 40 psf.

You didn’t give the size of the deck, but you can multiply the area by 30 psf to give you the maximum load your deck will support.

The Code does not stipulate the average weight of individuals, but you might use 180 lbs. as an average to determine number of people the deck could support.

The code allows a few increases, such as “short duration loading” and “impact loading”. I suppose both increases could be taken, but I don’t know enough about your deck to use them...so let’s just use that as a “safety factor” in case you start loading your deck up with kegs too.

If you’re thinking of loading your deck to the maximum, you’ll also want to calculate the required size of the footings, required size of joist’s supports (beams), posts fixes, required diagonal bracing for stability when they start singing “for he’s a jolly good fellow” at your birthday party...but that wasn’t your question. Party on...


Range Vent Hood Ducting - Can two 5" ducts work in place of one 10" for a range vent hood? Purchased a Kitchenaid Range Hood Vent that has a 1200 CFM blower.  Instructions say to install a 10" duct vent.  My existing venting duct was a rigid but small 6 inch duct.

Unfortunately at demo realized that sewer line and other utilities are right in the middle of the ceiling cavity perpendicular to the exit point, 10 feet away = cannot move (cost prohibitive).

A.   Can I used TWO 5" rigid ducts instead of the 10" one required?  How?  I'd think the biggest challenge will be the multiple reducers needed to go from 10-8, 8-6, for both lines.  And a Y-joint somewhere...

B.   What if I used the existing 6" duct and merely added a 4 inch line?  Or two-6 inch ducts?

(I will also be adding some mineral wool insulation for sound absorption right above the range but the goal is not to have to tear down the ceiling either.)

Here are the numbers and you can see what your options are.

The numbers are as follows:

On the left: CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute, cfm)

On the right: Equivalent Diameter Round Duct Sizes

200 : 4.9

300 : 5.7

400 : 6.6

750 : 8.3

1000 : 9.1

1250 : 9.8

1500 : 10.7

1750 : 11.5


Can I use this aggregate for bedding for my patio? The aggregate shown below was salvaged from a shed that I removed from my backyard
I am planning to use it to correct the pitching of my patio (see my other questions in this forum for details)

Can I use this aggregate? It is pretty similar with what was used before when the patio was installed

bigger pictures here:
http://i.imgur.com/hdVejP2.jpg
http://i.stack.imgur.com/XwbwG.jpg

Note: first picture shows a coarser aggregate
Second picture shows some traces of gravel. I can remove those, that is not a problem

Yes, what you have is stone dust, and it is what I used as the top 2.5" layer under my patios. It is perfect for making grade adjustments to the patio. Keep in mind under the 2.5" top layer there should be a 4 - 6" base of compactable gravel for best drainage.


Why is this double switch controlling both light circuits from both switches? My house has a double switch that is controlling 2 different lights (A and B). However, when I turn either one of the switches on, both lights turn on. Can somebody explain to me why this isn't working as expected?

I drew a diagram showing how it is wired. I am really confused because it should work as it is... Oh, and all 4 of the red twist caps are actually in the same box.

You disregarded a feature these switches have, where one side of both switches are wired together.   They can be separated by breaking a tab, but you didn't.

source

This side is intended to be the "common" side, so you could accomplish the left side of your diagram with one wire. However you placed it on the right side,  where it shorts the output of both switches.

Just rewire to suit, or break off the tab.


Is there a proven technique for removing grout joints without chipping porcelain tiles? Because of effloresence appearing on my porcelain tiled deck after rain events, I am planning to replace the existing grout with epoxy grout which will create a waterproof barrier.  But I first need to remove the existing grout joints, which are < 1/8" width.  It's my understanding that porcelain tiles can be susceptible to chipping so I'm not certain which method would be most appropriate to perform this work.  I was considering using a grout blade on my oscillating tool, but I wanted to get some feedback before proceeding.

There is a Dremel Grout removal attachment, which consists of a fixture to hold the tool at a 45 degree angle, and you can get a 1/16 inch carbide cutter bit.

I've used this setup several times to remove grout for renewal or tile replacement.   It can work quite well if the grout is really a sixteenth wide.  Its not easy, but you can chip the tiles if you're not careful.   I inevitably break the bit, and will always buy at least two.

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/568-grout-removal-attachment


Can a circuit with three-ways be split in two branches? I have a circuit like this:
panel ======= three-way (1) ============ three-way (2) ===== ceiling-mounted fixture

I would like to have another fixture a bit further, with its own new three-way, but retain the first three way:
panel ======= three-way (1) ============ three-way (2) ===== ceiling-mounted fixtureA
                               ||
                               ========= three-way (3) ===== ceiling-mounted fixtureB

So, fixtureA would be switched on/off by (1) and (2) and fixtureB would be switched on/off by (1) and (3). Assume all necessary wires have the 2 needed travellers. I know how to wire it.
I realize the usability issue: switching (1) could turn (2) on and (3) off. That's OK.
My question is there any electrical code issues I'd be facing ? Any security concerns I may have missed ? Location is Canada, QC.

Some inspectors will give you a hard time over that usability issue. Three-ways are required in certain hallways and stairways, and an inspector who doesn't know when a three-way is required and when it isn't, might simply reject anything that confuses him.
You can purchase a single yoke device with two three-ways, that physically occupies one gang location in a switch box.. Perhaps you could wire your circuits like this:
             three-way (1a) ===== three-way (2) ===== ceiling-mounted fixture A
panel =====<<
             three-way (1b) ===== three-way (3) ===== ceiling-mounted fixture B


How to prevent rain grate on the garden from shifting or collecting debris? My downspouts go along the wall down to the garden level. I will install rain grates below it to collect the water and direct it to the street.

I will make something like that.

I think being buried will prevent it from shifting from people walking over it, right?

Do I need to make it above grade to prevent debris from falling into it? I really have no idea about it, as I always seem those grates on floored areas, never on garden.

Connecting the downspout directly to an underground pipe will prevent debris from entering the system. It will probably be easier and cheaper to construct as well.


How to remove screws with stripped heads? I have wood screws whose heads are stripped from trying to remove them with a drill. The drill (or screwdrivers) can't grip the heads anymore. What can i use to remove these screws easily?

Damaged screws are extracted by drilling into the screw with a drill bit, then using a special screw extractor bit that is tapered and has threads which turn opposite to those of the screw.

The extraction process should be done slowly and carefully because the extraction process is more fragile than the normal insertion of a screw.

I found this to be a good write-up with pictures.


How can I determine which outlets belong to which circuit? I'm putting in a powerline Internet adapter for my house (something like this). My mom said it has two circuit breakers, but she has no idea how the house is divided between them. Going across breakers causes too much interference and is bad for the connection, but sometimes the Internet works well and sometimes it doesn't so the signal here is noisy.

Is there an easy way to determine which outlets in my house are on the same breaker? Powerline aside I'm also just curious to find the answer.

You can get a circuit breaker finder which is a module that plugs into an outlet to send a signal that can be picked up by the other half. The plug-in component appears to only work when the power is turned on. The receiving unit is designed to work at the breaker panel, but I wouldn't be surprised if it worked on other outlets.

Of course this is overlooking the cheap and easy answer: turn off one breaker and see what's still working.