How can I repair my concrete porch? I have a concrete porch upfront which has 2 pillars supporting a roof.  The concrete is showing cracks and spalling.  To repair can I resurface this? A friend suggested tigercrete (concrete with fiberglass) after doing a really thorough cleaning/pressure wash.

If I do resurface it should I wrap the wooden 4x4 pillars in something to protect them?

Another alternative suggested is to lay wooden strips down and put in a composite deck over the concrete. I may have "just" enough height on my door to do this.

Any suggestions?  Not looking forward to jackhammering it out.

If you resurface concrete the cracks from the original concrete will eventually come out to your new surface (Even with the fiber in it, infact thats the only type of concrete we place).  Its really better to remove the old concrete and pour in a new porch but that's not really the cost effective way to do it.  But if you do decide to resurface it any part of your walls and pillars you want to cover with plastic, and tape down the ends, its very tough to get concrete off of brick and almost impossible to remove it from wood.

But what would be nice if you could do it would be a colored stamped overlay.  That way after it is stamped any cracks that might come out wont be noticeable.  To do this you need a stampable overlay mix, concrete die, release (I like powdered release over liquid), you can rent the stamps, and a gauge rake to spread it out. Stamping concrete is a little difficult especially with an overlay, the concrete has to be just right (not too wet but not too dry) for the stamp to come out correctly.


Where do I put my c wire the un used or c wire for me is blue but where do I connect it to? I’m not really sure where to tie this blue wire into for my thermostat (https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJoRS.jpg)

Include it in the nut with the red and grey wires in it

Given that the wiring diagram for your furnace says that the grey wire going into the thermostat wiring compartment is your C wire, we can connect the blue wire to the thermostat into the existing junction there to make it a C wire for your thermostat's use.  This is further substantiated by the fact the yellow wire in your thermostat cable goes off into the white wire in the compressor cable, which leaves the red wire in the compressor cable to return 24V control power back to the transformer, which implies that the red wire must be connected to the furnace's C wire.


How can I safely increase the size of a door bolt? I live in an apartment right near the garage of the apartment. Every time someone comes in or out of the garage, the change in air pressure causes my door to slam a bit and it sounds like someone is trying to break into my apartment (spoiler alert, they're not).

This bothers me and I haven't found a great way to fix it. I feel like the issue is that the bolt in my door is too small (either that, or the piece of the door that retracts when you turn the knob [I have no idea what it's called] is too small). I'm wondering if you guys had any clever ideas for how I might stop my door from slamming every time the air pressure changes? It's really annoying!

For clarification, Is this an open door being slammed shut, or a door with clearance when latched that allows it to clatter against the door jamb?

The first can be taken care of with a gas cylinder door closer to retard the closing of the door on the last final bit.

The second can be taken care of by putting thin weatherstrip around the door to stop unwanted airflow, cushion door to door jamb contact and take up the clearance that exists while the door is latched.

I've also used felt pads for reducing the annoyance.

As to whether the bolt is big enough, it's more likely that it's the positioning of the bolt and latch strike plates that's the problem. They can also be moved towards the jamb to take up the slack clearance. It will probably take some finesse with a chisel if they're inlet into the surface along with some filling of the old screw holes so they can be re-drilled for the new strike-plate position. I mention the weatherstrip above because it's the easier of the two fixes and doesn't involve modifications that might be prohibited by your lease.


Can light falling out of socket, how to resolve issue? This light is starting to fall out of its socket. What can be done to alleviate the issue? Are there spacers that can be put into the sides or does this have to be addressed in the attic above the light?

Usually the trim ring fits up into the can with spring tension from bent metal fingers that grip the inside of the can.

If you remove it and pry the fingers out slightly it should re-insert tighter and hold up tight against the ceiling.

Stay safe!


Sharing neutral between branches Legal? Safe?

I don't see a problem with this as long as neutral uses a gauge high enough to support both branches. Am I missing something here?

EDIT:

Here's an illustration:

To those who know all about MWBCs, this particular case is bizarre, interesting, and falls in the "you learn something new every day" category.  Please read carefully and not leap to conclusions. Thank you.

OP's comment The circuit breakers on the diagram are not feeding opposite phases, but the same one. means this is a shared neutral which is not a MWBC.

The neutral is carrying twice the return current!

And this (a non-MWBC) is an area often messed up by electricians, so it is generally frowned upon quite a lot.

There are old circuits out there like this.  This is is "leeeeeegal" per NEC... look at 215.4(A), or 225.7(B).  However these apply to feeders, and outdoor lighting, respectively.  You must upsize the neutral to handle the current for all the circuits which are on the same phase.

However, as a practical matter, any authority able to do so is going to nix it.  Prepare to have  your installation fail inspection, and  your protestations of being allowed in Code fall on deaf ears.

Any installation like this has some rules.

Pigtail neutrals

You must pigtail all the neutrals, except where a pair of wires branches off from the group and doesn't come back.  That is because removing a device on one circuit (e.g. a receptacle) mustn't break the neutral path for any other circuit.

Common maintenance shut-off

You will also need a common maintenance shut-off, powering down all circuits which share the neutral.  If your circuits come out of a fuse panel, a shut-off switch will suffice.  Common trip is not required; i.e. all the circuits don't need to shut off together if one overloads and blows a fuse or breaker.  However with breakers, those are the shut-off, so they must be handle-tied to shut off together.   Rather than chase around looking for handle-ties, most people just use a 2-pole or 3-pole breaker. They will have the side-effect of common trip; again that's not required.

GFCI and AFCI will be impossible

Increasingly, GFCI or AFCI protection is being required - most rooms in a house must be one or the other.  GFCIs are simply not built for shared-neutral circuits.

It is possible to use a GFCI or AFCI on a multi-wire branch circuit, which is a special case of a shared-neutral circuit, in which each circuit is intentionally on a different phase.  In this case the neutral carries only differential current, and can be the same size as the other conductors.

Generally a multi-wire branch circuit is the only kind of shared-neutral circuit an authority will allow you to have.


Can I move heating vents below a window from the wall to the sill? I'm thinking about repositioning the heating vent from the front wall of the windows sill to the top of the sill. Under the sill, I have hot water radiators to provide the heat.
How will this affect the heating flow and the overall room temperature?
Should I expect less, the same amount or even a better flow since the flow may be going more directly into the room?

You only use heating when it is cold. When it is cold, the windows will be cold. Running the heat up along the cold windows will allow the windows to suck the heat out of the heated air and to the outside. As you have it now, the air is being pushed out into the room to circulate and mix with the other room air, warming the space, not the windows. Eventually the warm air gets back to the windows and gets chilled against them, but it is not circulating as fast. Doing what you propose will likely accelerate that process. I would not do it, your heating bills will likely go up.
What is your reasoning behind this?


what to do about squeaky floors I tore out all the old flooring upstairs of my split foyer home and need to know how I can stop the squeaking of the subfloor before I have the new flooring put down. Obviously the squeak wasn't in the old flooring. Subfloors are all that's left. There are several places that squeak pretty bad, one in the living room and one in a bedroom

Much of the difficulty in stopping floor squeaks comes from the fact that people don't want to remove or damage their flooring to fix it.  There are special screws with heads that snap off and other gadgets to make it easy.

You have no flooring, so it makes it a lot easier.  Get some good, strong screws and go to town on the areas that squeak.  Screw the sub-floor solidly into the floor joists underneath until all movement and squeaking have stopped.  Also, walk around the area with heavy steps to try and see any additional movement that might not be squeaking yet.  Screw down anything that even feels like it might have moved.


Bathtub Resurfacing Options: Pour-on vs. Spray-on I'd like to resurface an old cast iron/porcelain tub, and in my research of professionals I've found they use various products, but two methods of application: pour-on and spray-on.
I'm looking to understand the pros and cons of each methods. It seems that the advantages to pour-on are that it's odorless, thicker, and possibly harder (so maybe it's more durable?); is this correct, and if so, what are the advantages to spray-on?

Pour-on is great when you have the ability to move the object around and let the liquid flow around and smoothly and evenly cover the entire surface. It's not so great when you have to move and the object stays still. I doubt you'll be spinning the tub around in all different directions unless you'll have it mounted to a spin table. Spraying will probably be your best option since you'll be the one moving, not the tub. You will need more coats when spraying than you would with pour-on but that's just the way it is. You don't want to start the spray on the object or you'll have circles. Start the spray off of the object and then draw it across the surface and off the surface and then continue back.


Adhesive tape: in the direction of expected stress or perpendicular to it? I have used some pieces of double-sided adhesive tape to fix a doormat on laminate flooring. The expected stress for this mat is from and towards the door; most people scrub their shoes perpendicular to the door.

Of course, more tape will always reduce the chance the mat will eventually be removed from its place by normal usage, but I was wondering: given a limited supply of tape, what is the best way to position them? I guess at least one piece of tape in each corner, but does their orientation (along or perpendicular to the expected stress, or even at a 45 degree angle) matter at all?

Best solution I have seen is to make a recess and drop the mat in the recess.

Allows the mat to be taken out and cleaned, also no sticky residue.

source : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Matwell-Entrance-Surround-Insert/dp/B00PK4LNKM


Screw Size Unit Conversion I would like to find out what English units of measure are for a screw size described as ST5X70.  Where can I get this information?

That would be a self tapping screw with a diameter of 5 mm, and a length of 70 mm.  In English units it would be a self tapping screw with a diameter between 3/16" and 13/64" (0.1969"), and a length of 2 3/4".


Can I run a 60A sub-panel off of another 200A sub-panel? I would like to run a sub panel out to my garage to run an 80 gal (4hp) compressor. -- I have a 200 amp shut-off panel on the outside of my house which runs to a 200 amp breaker panel in the house. I was told to think of the outside box as the "main" panel and the one in the house as a "sub-panel."  So, I am essentially running a sub panel from a sub panel. - Any problems with that?

I'm thinking I'd do a 60 amp panel in the garage. The compressor would need a "dual 30A" breaker - correct? Can I still have another circuit in that panel for a 20A outlet and or a lighting circuit? Or would that require a larger sub-panel?

How many wires of what awg would I need to run from the house panel to the garage in each case?

In response to question - Total distance from indoor panel to garage panel is about 100 feet.

and, the plate on the motor says 230 volts --  16.5 amps....

I also use a welder very intermittently that "works" on a 20a circuit.

As I continue to browse on this subject...  I've learned that I can have four 6 awg wires in my 3/4" conduit...   Am I correct that I will need 2 hots, a neutral and a ground running to my sub panel? At just under 100 feet, will 6 awg suffice for a 60 amp sub panel? Then the question becomes, what circuits will I be able to run out of that sub panel? My compressor, plus what?

Yes, you will want to come off of the panel inside the house. The one on the outside is likely just a shutoff. In which case it would be unsafe for you to open because you cannot dissconnect the power at the meter. So at least one side of the breaker would be hot. Flip the main cuffot outside so that you can work on the panel inside without worry.

For a 100' run I'd use service cable. 6/4 should be fine for 60 amps. You will need to run four wires. Two will carry the two phases, one will be a neutral, and the other will be a dedicated ground between the two panels. You may also want to add a ground at the new panel. Ground rod is best, or tie it to a copper cold water line (old school).

As for the appropriate breaker for the compressor, that will entirely depend on the compressor. If it runs on 240V then yes you will need a "double pole" breaker so that you grab 120V from each phase for a total of 240. But you will need to check the motor on the compressor to see if it requires 240v or 120V. It should also say how many amps it will pull.

Yes you could add a double 30 breaker and additional circuits for tools lights or whatever. Really you can have as many circuits as you like as long as the total used at any one time isn't more than 60 amps. So for example you could add a 30 amp circuit for a compressor and a 50 amp circuit for a welder and you will be fine as long as they don't run at the same time.

Edit: wanted to add that for the 60 amps panel you will need to use a 60 amps double pole breaker in the main panel to tie into.


Refridgerator evaporator not cooling enough to cool fridge I think it's called the evaporator/cooling element, the coils inside the refrigerator where the r134a gas passes through cooling it. About a week ago our refrigerator stopped working and I found what I thought to be the problem, there was corrosion on the condenser tubes on the bottom of the fridge allowing all the r134a gas to leak out (likely due to dressing spilling repeatedly in the fridge and leaking onto them). I went in and replaced the corroded sections of tubing, and then added a valve onto the tubing so that I could pump more r134a gas back into the system. After bringing the pressure up to slightly less than 10 psi (got this figure from the internet) by adding r134a the cooling element is pretty cold, but not near as cold as it should be. I'm thinking I may have gone wrong in the way I added the r134a, I've seen online where people vacuum all the air out before adding the refrigerant, which I did not do since I do not own a vacuum pump. This will be my next step, but I figured I would ask here since I don't know much about these things and vacuum pumps are fairly expensive

You'll need to evacuate all the air that leaked into the system.

The vacuum is also an opportunity test to see if the repair is done properly.

It's a similar process to refilling the AC in your car after it leaked so if you use the same fittings a car shop may let you rent/use their equipment.


Marble backsplash sealing My marble backsplash was just completed and grouted yesterday afternoon.  I now realize it probably should have been sealed prior to installation but it wasn’t.  How long should I now wait before sealing it? Do I need to wait for it to be cured? How long would that be? My contractor said totally dry in 6 hours but I worry there is a difference between dry and dry enough to seal?

TIA
![enter image description here]

You are correct in that marble should be sealed before installation because it can absorb color from the grout. Luckily, your marble and the grout are very similar in color. You need to seal the grout, and now the tile, after the grout has cured. The time for the grout to cure should be on the bag of grout, usually 24 to 48 hours. Pick a sealer for marble and follow directions, there are many to choose from.

I'm curious, didn't the contractor know to seal the marble first?


Insect pods on walls...how to eradicate? Our house and detached garage (in Los Angeles) was fumigated before we moved in. After a year or so, these pods (~0.5") started showing up in some exterior walls and interior walls.

Here are two pictures of them on stucco. This is in our covered front porch area.

I found out that these are household casebearers (moths). How to I get rid of them...and potentially prevent them from coming back?

The casebearer requires high humidity to thrive and plenty of food sources.

So run your Air conditioner and dehumidify the inside air.

Clean everything in sight - spider webs, food crumbs, seal up cracks and crevices. Wasps will kill them  but I don't think you want those nests on the outside of the home. There is a chemical I heard of called Physan 20 which kills them with in 10 minutes - you might need to do several applications over the weeks as the gestation period of the larvae can be about 45 to 50 days.

How old is your stucco and how damp is it .. you might have moisture in it. You will need to resolve that issue if you expect them to leave. If your have the house fumigated - get the stucco sealed up and painted.

You said the house was fumigated before you moved in ... done by the previous owners? or you requested it knowing the insects were there ?
 I ask this because certain other remedies might be available for you to look into.


How can plywood edges be finished to conceal the plies? My cabinet doors are tired and have many coats of ugly paint. Rather than strip all the paint off, I'm considering just chucking the old doors and making new ones. I like the plain style of just a simple, painted rectangle of plywood. But how can I finish the edges of plywood doors to conceal the plies so they don't shout "I am made of plywood"?

Try iron-on edge banding. Iron it on (you will have excess probably) and then trim the excess. You can usually get it pretty close to the color of your stain that you choose.


Wiring lights to a Garbage disposal circuit Can I wire recess lights to garbage disposal circuit, which has a dedicated 15A circuit

EDIT: Since I answered this question, R. Gunas edited the wording to more clearly state that they want to wire lights to the garbage disposal, and not the other way around like I thought. My answer is still applicable though. The garbage disposal still should have its own breaker (as discussed below in my original answer).

It's best to wire the garbage disposal to it's own dedicated circuit. It can be shared with the lights, but the load needs to be calculated to make sure that it can handle the disposal plus the lights. The garbage disposal isn't a constant load, but when it's on you may notice your lights dim. I would recommend not wiring it from the recess lights.

Although not directly required by the NEC, you will probably want the garbage disposal on a GFCI circuit. This can be done with a GFCI breaker, or by installing a GFCI receptacle under the sink and plugging the garbage disposal to it.

The real answer is you need to read the manufacturer's installation instructions and see what they recommend.


How do I install a non-load bearing wall on a carpeted concrete floor and finished drywall ceiling? I am looking to close off a stairwell with a new drywall wall. The area it will be installed is already finished with carpet stretched over the concrete floor and a popcorn drywall ceiling.

What are my choices for dealing with the existing carpet and ceiling?

Michael has a good answer in the comments.

You need to cut your carpet where your wall would be.  Roll back your carpet a few feet so it is not damaged, install wall (this should be its own question if you have a specific problem), retack next to wall for carpet, stretch carpet out, and place carpet on tack strips.


Can I add a pendant fixture to ceiling fan? I've just moved into an old, historic apartment that has had some unfortunate ceiling fans & light kits installed. I'm renting of course, so I can't do much about the situation, but I'm wondering if I can add a pendant fixture? Something similar to this fixture is what I have in mind.

My question is more along the lines of "is this physically possible & safe?" than "is this legal?" Also, I'm asking specifically if this can be done along with/in addition to the fan, not instead of.

If you're looking to add a light to an existing ceiling fan, making it a combination fan/light, this will only work if (1) the fan is designed to accept an optional light add-on and (2) you use the light add-on appropriate to your fan. If you don't know what type of fan you have, this will be difficult to find, but you could start by turning off the power and seeing if you can detach a part on the bottom of the fan. If this reveals some wires or wiring terminals you may be in luck; measure any attachment points and look for an add-on from the same manufacturer that would fit.

If you're talking about just swapping out the whole fixture, you could relatively easily replace the existing ceiling fans or light fixtures with new fans or fixtures. Most fixtures are designed to attach to standard ceiling boxes. These sorts of changes can also be easily undone (remove your new fixture and reattach the old one) if needed, which may be useful in your situation. Note that if you're attaching a ceiling fan, you need to be sure the box you're attaching to is rated for fan use (i.e. has a stronger attachment to framing to support the weight/motion of the fan).


Solar power backup for router I want to use solar panels to create a power backup for a router(9V, 1A). I'm aware I'll require solar panels and batteries but am not sure how to choose suitable ones. Please help suggest me on selecting these. Also, what other things do I need? Where can I find them for bargain prices online?

Also please post any links to tutorials I might find useful.

1.) Golf Cart batteries are the easiest supply for a home electric backup battery bank.

2.) Bigger is better with the solar panel array. If you're only going to be running the router (why not the modem too? Or is it combined?) you can probably get away with a cheap small solar kit from these guys : Silicon Solar They offer some great battery charger kits that pretty much take all the work out of it for you. You'd still need to wire these to your battery and convert the current to your AC plug for the router.

3.) For connecting the Router to the power grid you've created in Steps 1&2 you'll need an inverter. Depending on your interest in making something pretty to look at and safe to handle you might want to do some more research on an inverter you can wire to your power grid.

Here's a graphic that should help explain the setup and get you thinking visually on the setup explained above:

In your case the panel box would be replaced with the inverter output device combined as one item since you're only looking to power 1 device.


Peel and stick vinyl planks over vinyl I have an existing vinyl floor and I bought some peel and stick vinyl planks to lay over it.

My existing floor has "texture" to it. By that, I mean that it has shape. Its basically imitating tiles, and therefore, where the grout should be, it is slightly lower, something like a millimetter or less. Does that justify applying some sort of leveler, or can I just apply the primer to the floor and put the tiles down?

Here is a picture:

I am not a fan of putting down vinyl over vinyl.  Instead of leveling, I would strongly encourage you to remove the old floor, clean the underlying surface, possibly lay down a new sublayer of hardboard (basically pressed cardboard) and then apply your tile to that.

Vinyl over vinyl as stated by Damon will result in poor adhesion and if you're going to the trouble of leveling it, you may as well remove it and clean it up.  Building up the floor again and again will also result in uneven step differences between rooms.


How to clean wood stain off of vinyl porch? I refinished our dining room furniture out on the porch, and stupidly didn't put a tarp or anything down. Now there is woodstain all over. The porch is plastic (maybe vinyl, not sure what the difference is). Is there any way to get it out?

The exact fix depends on the stain, but try a few common solvents like rubbing alcohol, wd40, and acetone (nail polish remover). Be sure to try them first in an inconspicuous non-stained area with a cotton swap, as some solvents can etch some plastics, e.g. acetone and ABS.
You might also try steaming through a towel; that can remove some things solvents have trouble with.
If all else fails, you might be able to carefully bleach the stains to reduce their appearance. Regular bleach or the hydrogen peroxide gel packet from a cheap blonde hair-coloring kit would be my choices for that.


Is it safe to use a 10 ft non-UL listed power cord for my dryer My mother just purchased a new clothes washer and dryer for my family upon the death of our old top loader which coincided w/the birth of our fourth child (so, this is an emergency! I have diapers to wash!) The cord that came with the dryer is only 5 ft long, and since I need to stack the dryer on top of the washer (they won't fit next to each other) and my outlet is on the floor about three feet to the left of the bottom left of the washer, it is too short. The longest UL listed cord I can find is 6 ft long, which is also too short. The delivery guy said I need 10 ft so that the cord has a little slack in case the unit needs to be moved to clean behind it, etc, without having to unplug it. I found a ten ft cord with the specs I need, but it's not UL listed and I want to know:

Why there is no such thing as a UL listed cord longer than 6 ft? Is it because at this voltage/amperage a too long cord is a fire hazard?

Is it safe to use the 10ft cord despite the lack of a safety rating? What is the risk? Can the risks be mitigated somehow? (Such as frequent inspection/replacement)

If it's not safe, besides moving the outlet which will be difficult and expensive, how can I safely connect the dryer? Can I make (or have made by an electrician) a long cord, say, by increasing the gauge of the wires, to make it safe at the longer length?

The idiot at Sears that Mom bought the dryer from informed me that "most people have an outlet 3 ft up, in the middle of the wall, for their dryer, hence the lack of availability of a long cord" when I asked why they don't carry long cords for dryers that will be stacked so that the terminal block for the appliance is 78" off the ground. Apparently I am the only person on earth who has an older home retro fitted w/electricity so that outlets are not "where they belong." They will not come back and finish the install (they delivered it, but left it uninstalled bc of the cord issue) unless I have a new, unopened cord with a receipt showing a purchase date w/in the last 30 days. If prefer to have Sears do the install I paid for, which is one of the reasons Id like a UL listed cord or to use the one I found on Amazon.

Another idiot at Home Depot tried to sell me an extension cord for a generator, which had the wrong configuration at its female end and an "adapter" to make it work. I rejected this set up, but perhaps there is such an extension cord, with the correct male and female ends and rating?

I'd really love to use my new dryer, and am willing to get creative and spend a moderate amount of money on a solution other than rewiring my laundry room as long as it's SAFE.

Here is the info from the dryer's manual and the type of cord I have (4 prong)

You can make a cord using listed components. A 10awg 3 with ground SO cord (4 wires) and the correct cord cap you can make the length you need and it would be legal. a link to the wire and the plug  (normally called a cord cap). I would use crimp connectors on the end that attaches to the dryer because the SO is fine braided wire like this. Here is a link to a cord cap not sure if it is the same as you have but it will give you an idea if you were not sure what I described cord cap link.


Portable home bar plans? I'm moving into about a 1500 sq. ft. house soon and I would like to build my own portable bar that I can store beverages in. It should be long enough to put a couple stools in front of where people can sit but not so heavy that it becomes a pain to move around. Can anyone recommend a place or website where I can find plans or blueprints for a smaller, DIY, portable home bar? Any suggestions for this setup would be appreciated.

A bar is very much like a kitchen island with a seating overhang. There are several sites that either have plans, discussions or links to islands that might suit your purpose.  See, for example:

http://www.diynetwork.com/topics/kitchen-islands/index.html

or

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=673

I made a fixed kitchen island from an unfinished base, a granite top I custom ordered, and brackets I created to match the style of the unfinished cabinet. A shallower version could serve as a classic bar. This is NOT portable (almost no stone top should be).

You could make it portable by substituting a wooden top covered in metal, a thin butcherblock top, or any other wood or even tile.  Portability could be enhanced by attaching wheels to the base, either caster type or larger wheels with axles, but if you are storing bottles and glasses, you may not want that much movement.


What low (or no) cost method can I use to shade a south-facing wall from summer heat gain? I live in a rental in Tucson, Arizona. The southern wall is thick and has thermal mass but never gets cool enough at night to prevent having to run the A/C to make it bearable. This is killing me with USD$150+ per month electricity bills.

I thought if I could place a tarp leaned against some ladders it would do the trick, but that creates a giant sail that is dangerous as even small breezes start catching it.

This is a rental and I cannot permanently modify the unit.

The average daily temperature for the next month will easily be 104°F! And the coolest I can get the apt down to is 84°F, even running the A/C at 3am.

I need a passive, non-electrical solution to keep the apartment cool as the A/C costs money I do not have.

A couple of options, which are limited because you're renting.

1) Draw your curtains closed to keep the sun out

2) Air movement really helps! Create a draft by opening doors or windows in the North and south sides of the house.  If you don't have them, put some catches on the doors so they don't slam shut with the draft.

3) You might be able to install a ventilator in the attic space that removes the warm air and helps to reduce heat gain from above into your house.

This is a pretty good video.  Didn't know about the other problems mentioned.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Nfvax0Ul5g

4) If 3 isn't an option consider insulate the ceiling (which is good for both summer and winter) - your landlord may pay for it, but if not it may pay for itself in savings to you if you're planning on staying long enough.  If it's already insulated then you may benefit by adding more.

This will prevent excess heat entering the home from above (or leaving in winter).  This heat gain is especially bad on homes with an iron roof.

For people who own their own homes that have heating/cooling issues.

Trees that shade in summer and drop their leaves in winter help enormously.

As do plants that cover housing like ivy.  They keep the heat off of the building and insulate it.  Not everyone wants ivy growing on their houses though.

Another option is to install awnings which fold out for summer use and provide shade from the high sun.  It's a manual and in my opinion less attractive solution to using plants.

Cool the ceiling or attic space with a ventilator.  This removes the hot air and helps prevent it heating up your home.  You can get solar ones or passive ones.


Is there is a Standard on how much main service panel / main circuit breaker amps should be? Is there is a standard how much main service panel / main circuit breaker should be rated for?

Below example.

Here's current line up of my electric loads:

Electric Range - 50 amps
Electric Vehicle level 2 charger - 50 amps
Dryer - 30+20 amps (4 spaces breaker, 2 phases)
Air conditioner - 40+15 amps (4 spaces breaker, 2 phases)

These four main loads add up to 205 amps !

There are additional circuit breakers (10 of them):

15 amps circuit breakers - seven circuit breakers:

Furnace, refrigerator
Bed 3
Family room, basement
House gfi, loft
Up hall, garage
Master bed+ bath
Bed 2 + living room

20 amps breakers - three circuit breakers:

Kitchen + washer
Kitchen plugs, disposal
Dining room +   dishwasher

Is there is a standard how much main service panel / main circuit breaker should be rated for? I will be adding EV Level 2 charger (50 amps breaker). Currently have 150 amps main circuit breakers, but I feel it should be at 200amps there. This topic was starter primarily to understand if I have to increase main circuit breaker to 200amps with the additional EV charger.

Thanks.

Article 220 and you

Without the last year of utility usage data in hand, we have to use Article 220 of the NEC as our guide to sizing your service -- this is one of the toughest articles in the Code, so don't feel bad about being bamboozled by it (it's hard for many of the pros, even).  However, now that we have the information necessary in hand, we can go through the process together.

We start with the general receptacle load -- this is 3VA (volt-amps) per square foot of house, or 3*2635 = 7905VA.  To this, we add the small appliance load -- this is allocated at 1500VA per kitchen and laundry small appliance branch circuit (1 laundry and 6 kitchen in your case, conservatively treating the dishwasher and disposal circuits as SABCs) for 7*1500=10500VA.  Totaling these two numbers, we get 18405VA, which we then apply a 35% demand factor to for everything over 3000VA, giving us 8392VA of factored load.

From there, we then deal with major appliances.  You don't have any major motor loads (such as a dedicated circuit for a well pump) in your house, and your primary HVAC load is your air conditioner at 26.8A; also, it appears that you have a gas water heater to go with your electric dryer and electric range.  This means that we can use 9.6kVA as an allowance for the range (this handles ranges up to 50A, based on the Table 220.55 logic) and 5kVA as an allowance for the dryer as per NEC 220.54, to go with a 26.8A*230V=6164VA air conditioner load.  Adding this all together gives us 29156VA of total demand (before the car charger), which we divide by 240V to give us 121.5A of service load.

Adding the 9600VA (40A continuous) car charger to the existing load gives us 161.5A, which is over the current 150A service size, thus requiring an upgrade to 200A to fit this.

As to fitting the breaker in...

Here's the bad news -- you need to install a subpanel to get the breaker for the EV to fit into your setup, since Square D does not make a HOMT240250, and it does not appear you have enough spare spaces otherwise to fit things in.  The best bet is to move the range breaker (top left) out to the new subpanel -- this frees up space for a 100A breaker (HOM2100) that can then feed a 1AWG aluminum feeder (3x1AWG aluminum XHHW-2 in metal conduit) to a subpanel (I would use a 2 or 2.5" conduit to accommodate a future upgrade of the feeder to 200A, and use a 200 or 225A main lug panel with ground bars and 42 spaces minimum for the sub), which can then mount a 40A 2-pole breaker for the range and a 50A 2-pole breaker for the EV charger.


Electrical Code Clarification I'd liked to get some insights into how others interpret the code regarding AFCI and the NEC 2015 code.

Here's a hypothetical:

Arc fault protection is omitted for outlets outdoors, garages and crawl spaces. Granted these have to be GFCI protected.

Now say I add some outlets outdoors and I have a switch in the master bedroom to control the outlets.  Even though all the outlets but one are outdoors because the switch is technically an outlet, this would require arc fault protection in addition to GFCI protection.

Code complaint?

The switch location is not an outlet according to NEC, unless you're installing a switch/ receptacle combo device.

  Outlet. A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.

I doubt an inspector would require the circuit to be AFCI protected, but ultimately that's who'll make the final decision.  To be sure, contact your local electrical inspector.

That being said... AFCI protection is designed to help protect you and your home, so it's not a bad idea to protect the circuit even if it's not required.


Considerations for making a 4-5 cm hole in a steel counter top? About a year ago, I bought a small counter top dishwasher; the apartment I lived in a the time had a kitchen with a connector for it on back of the tap. I have since moved, and the new apartment's kitchen does not come with the necessary facilities.
My first thought was to buy a tap with the required connector, but since this kitchen is quite old, no modern taps (one large cylinder) fit into the counter (two small holes).
So instead I've prepared a connector for the dishwasher under the sink, and all I need now to get it installed is to make an hole in the counter top to route the plastic water pipe through.

How would I best go about this to make the hole look clean and have a raised edge to prevent leakage?

You can use this type of bit. First drill a pilot hole of 3/5mm before using this.

Found over here

or this - but its more difficult - It says for wood but you can use them for soft steel as well but you need to constantly lubricate (lots!! dont be shy) the bit/surface to keep it cool using WD40 lubrication oil and drill at a slow speed. This is more dirtier and the edge can be rubbish.

Then you can mount something like this

These can be found at furniture shops/ swimming pool shops/ hardware stores.. you will need to find the one you need and possibly DIY it slightly.


Attaching second layer of drywall -- is there something I can do to ensure it doesn't ruin the base drywall if I have to remove it eventually? I'm new to DIYing, so please excuse me if something here sounds off.
I'm planning on a DIY vertical slat accent wall in our bedroom in our rental apartment.
Since nailing slats directly into the wall is going to ruin the wall if and when I'm moving out and have to remove them, I thought a better way might be to build the slats over separate drywall panels and then attach those to the wall, so that the base drywall doesn't get mangled by a billion nails. The hope is that doing that might make it easy to remove it later, panel by panel, keeping the original drywall relatively unscathed.
Knowing that the paneled drywall is eventually going to have to come off the base wall, is there something I can do upon installation I could do to minimize damage during the process of eventual removal? Any tips at all on how to do this / what fasteners to consider etc would be amazing. Also would be glad to know if there's a better way to do this that keeps the base wall as unscathed as possible when I remove the paneled drywall.
Super sorry if this is rudimentary, and incredibly grateful for any support/advice!

Any method you choose is going to affect the existing drywall. Patching small holes in drywall is simple and easy but patching dozens of holes is more work than patching just a few.
If you use drywall you will have to use dozens of screws to attach it to the existing wall.  If you use a more rigid base then you can get away with just  a few fastener points.
Use 3/8" or 1/2" plywood and attach  horizontal rows of screws into the studs near the top, in the middle and near the bottom.  You will want to place your screws so they are accessible, between slats or under slats that will be removable, in order to access them when it comes time to remove the wall.
When the time comes you unscrew slat wall and take it with you to you your new castle. You can do it in section if you like, Studs are 16" on center so if you do not want a 48" wide (4x8 plywood) you could cut them so they fall on the studs. I.E. 16", 32" etc. A stud finder will help to find a stud to use as a reference to measure from for the others.
Note. Sometimes studs are spaced farther or closer for various reasons so map out all of your studs before hand and design your panels accordingly.


Best fasteners for french cleat wall I am building out a french cleat wall for a home office a la the below photo.  The cleats will be 3/4 inch plywood ripped to 4" strips and attached directly to the studs (through the drywall).  I plan to put in two fasteners at each stud for each cleat.
What are the best fasteners to use?  Are lag bolts necessary or are 2 1/2 inch screws sufficient?  The various shelves will have books and plants and pictures, etc. so not a ton of weight.

If you are screwing to every stud and they are spaced at 16" and you're not hanging anything incredibly heavy and not climbing, doing chin-ups or doing anything else involving supporting people or repeatedly pulling on the cleats, ONE 2.5" screw per stud is plenty. I expect the weak point will be the top edge of the plywood where you shape it to hang the fixtures. If that's the case, multiple screws per stud or lag bolts will add nothing. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do a regression test on one piece attached to 3 studs. Just pile on weight slowly til something breaks, then you'll know what not do do but you may find that no reasonable amount of weight will break anything if you take reasonable steps like hanging larger shelves from two places as in this photo.


Completely flat/flush recessed lighting trim I can't seem to find these anywhere, but I really want a trim that is completely flush with the ceiling (at the mud level) for my 4" recessed cans. That is, I don't want the trim to have any profile that extends below the ceiling.

Does anyone know is something like this exists?

I have seen this done.  There is no special trim.

Steps:

Install trim
Take a utility knife and scribe around the trim exactly.
take out enough drywall layer to set trim - some guys just take off the paper
mud and sand where needed after reinstalling flush trim

Does it look better?  Debatable.  Is it worth it?  Almost in all cases no.

Note: My opinion above is that of a joe-average drywall/mudder.  I am in no form an expert and I have a crew I hire for high end jobs.  I am sure that my crew could make the trim look perfect in a ceiling.  Also you would probably have to get more expensive trim pieces as most of the cheap ones are grooved and wouldn't look right for this install.


I have a gap in my concrete window sill, what do I fill it with What is the correct product to fill this joint with? If I should use a cement based product I do have a can of water plug which I'd rather use than buy a 60 pound bag of something else.

I use Quad Window Door and siding sealant.

You can get in grey.

Mask off the sill so you you do not get it where you do not want it. Fill the gap then take you finger and dip it denatured alcohol and use your finger to smooth it out, do not work it to  much. Pull your tape and your done.

It will help to do a practice run on some scrap wood or something so you understand how to work with it.


Air handler blower, motor, or something else? My blower just stopped working. I have 240 volts to the motor but it won't spin. It will turn an inch or so but that's it and it tries repeatedly. Could it be something besides the blower or the motor? It's a variable speed.

ECM Motor Troubleshooting –yorkcentraltechtalk

  Troubleshooting the ECM motor can be very simple if you just remember that it's not just ON or OFF.  There are basically 4 problems that will not allow the motor to run:

There is no input power to the motor controller (high voltage input).
There is improper or no communication to the motor (low voltage inputs). This problem could be the CFM Programming control or board or the low voltage connector (wiring harness).
The motor controller (module) has failed.
The motor has failed (least likely of all the problems)


Is it possible to convert a single-sided wood-burning fireplace into a two-sided one? We're restoring/renovating a 120-year-old home that has a beautiful cast-iron wood-burning fireplace in the dining room, very similar (but not identical) to this:

Is it possible to open up the backside of such a fireplace to have a double-sided fireplace, opening into the opposite room?

I've been told that it wouldn't work - that we'd either need a separate flue or smoke would just billow into the house. If that's so, does that mean it's impossible to have a two-sided wood-burning fireplace ever, or what factors need to be in place for such a fireplace to function correctly?

Thanks in advance.

I have been searching far and wide for answers to the same question, with one minor exception. I want to convert an existing single fireplace to a "see-through," or double fireplace, and put a natural gas insert, to be direct-vented through the existing flu.

I have come to my own conclusions which have been reinforced by Jack in his answer above, and many other people's comments I have read.

There are two issues: can you safely open up the back side of an existing fireplace on a considerably older chimney?; and will the fireplace vent properly if you can?

I think I have the answers I need.

Ensure the structural integrity of your chimney down to your fireplace. A certified chimney sweep can do this
Have an experienced mason look at your fireplace to assess the structural ability where such a hole is to be made. There are ways they can do this safely
After that, in my case, I'm fine because I want to direct-vent my gas insert and that simply involves running two separate pipes or hoses up the chimney as intake and exhaust, but, with a wood fire, you have a thermodynamic problem
In your case:

Some basic thermodynamics: Hot air rises and cold air sinks; and fire requires combustion air. Simply put, to work properly, a fireplace needs cooler air entering the firebox to replace the hot air (smoke and gases that leave via the chimney). The proper balance of cold and hot allows the fireplace to draw. Two-sided fireplaces have inherent problems with draw. They're hit with drafts from both sides. With your setup, you may find yourself with a smoke-filled home because of an imbalance of cold and hot air.

Installing glass doors can solve this problem by cutting off air from one side of the fireplace to start and containing the hot air once the fire gets going.

Some other tips might include:

The rack where you place the wood should be placed directly under the damper. Raising the grate on bricks helps create more combustion air under the fire and gets the fire closer to the chimney opening.

Have an experienced mason check the height of the chimney. Extending the height of the chimney should improve the draw.

If it is either cold and/or raining, the air inside the flue will probably be cold and heavy, blocking the smoke from venting. Every time you build a fire, prime the chimney by rolling up a newspaper and lighting it, then holding the lit end close to the open damper inside the firebox to warm up the air in the flue. This has the effect of coaxing the warm air to go in the right direction - outside, not into the house.

Most importantly however, is making sure your chimney doesn't collapse into your home when someone cuts the backside of the fireplace out. The thermodynamic problem can likely be overcome.

Hope that helps. Disclaimer, very little of the above information is original. I have simply gleaned it from many, many other sources.


Why does my garbage disposal have a 3 way switch? In my house I have what seems to be a plain two wire + ground flip switch for the garbage disposal. I need to replace the switch because we added backsplash tiling and want to better match the color.  I removed the switch and found that it had 3 black wires going to it plus a ground wire. Isn't this a 3 way switch? This is a hardwired garbage disposal. This switch is NOT part of a box with a plug as well, although there is a GFCI plug about a foot down the wall from it.

The garbage disposal is on the same breaker box circuit as the dishwasher, but the dishwasher has its own disposal in it and I've never heard it turn on the sink disposal. So why would a 3 way switch be needed?

Update: Sideways photo of switch above. (Just turn your head ;-). I noticed that the front of the switch has on/off written on the switch, which would be strange for a 3 way switch to have. So now I'm even more confused.

What you have there is a single pole switch that has been tapped to continue the permanent hot to another source.  Perhaps an outlet or dishwasher.  If you are installing a new dishwasher it will probably have  significantly more amps.  This could become an issue with the old practice of putting the disposal and dishwasher on the same circuit.


Is it possible to use Double pole 30amp breaker switch as a single pole 30amp breaker Can I use a double pole 30amp breaker as a 1 pole 30amp breaker? I need to wire a 30amp plug in for RV, I have an un used 2 pole breaker but need a 1 pole 30amp breaker.

Yes. A double pole is just 2 breakers together so that it should never be switched on only one side, but if you connect your wire to just 1 side then only 1 line is being controlled by the breaker.


Can you support a 20ft 2x6 only at the ends? Can you support a 20ft 2x6 only at the ends for a pergola?

2x6 DF #2 Supported o the ends can handle about 11 lb. per Ln. Ft. total load.  This would include snow.  would recommend at least 2x8 if you are okay with sagging from wood creep after many years.  4x8, (2) 2x8, or 2x10 would be better.


Opposite of double key deadbolt I'm looking for a deadbolt that has the handle/knob on both sides. Basically the opposite of a double-key deadbolt. The purpose is to put it on our basement door out of reach from the kids. An adult can lock/unlock the door from either side and would never get totally locked on either side, without needing a key.

Any ideas?

It took me a wile to find one but it is a double loop locked. This will do what you want, cannot be locked and can be opened from both sides.


Concrete crack repair: (polyurethane) crack filler versus new concrete patch What are the pros and cons of using crack filler like Sikaflex Polyurethane Sealant or its self-leveling type versus concrete patch like Quikrete Concrete Patch Repair?
My understanding is that if cracks (not control joints) are large enough to use either option, the concrete patch will be superior in strength and does not introduce a very different material (although it has polymer additives).
More specifically, I am thinking of cracks on driveway as well as small hairline cracks on pool decks (at the four corners), if these special situations change any consideration.

If the cracks are due only to an initial settling, and the slab is now stable, patching with concrete definitely does have the benefit of being the same material and can be stronger.  However, this makes the whole slab one block again.
The advantage of the flexible sealants is that if the cracks are due to seasonal movement of the slab, they allow the slab to still move a bit while still being sealed (like a control joint).  If a concrete-patched slab needs to bend or adjust a bit, it will just crack itself again.


Big box Pella vs. Pella Pella The Pella salesman claims that his replacement windows are better than the Pella replacement windows that are sold at the big box stores.  Is that true?

I've done my best to ask the windows people at the big box probing questions.  Maybe I haven't found enough questions to ask.

So far, I've only found two differences:

Pella Pella: he says the frames have foam insulation added at the factory.  The big box window sales person says they can do that too, for $15 extra per window.
Pella Pella: he says that when they do the installation, they bring a small machine to put foam insulation into the wall around the edges.  The big box window installer says he uses the fiberglass kind and stuffs it in around the edges because the foam is too messy, and he says the results are the same.

Do either of those matter?  Also, what other differences are there?  What other questions should I ask?  I'm not looking to make my 1940's house a model of energy efficiency.  I just want to be more comfortable.  Money is a concern for me at this time.

The Pella Pella estimate is about double the big box Pella estimate.

First, to bust a rumor, if it's the same model/SKU, it's the same part. If you see a "549E" model at Home Depot, and a dealer also sells a 549E, then it's the real McCoy. However, they may well make a "547H" model that's been shaved for Home Depot (it may even be made by a different manufacturer.)

The big-box stores are very tough on vendors, on both price and return policy.  A such, many vendors build "Built for big-box" shaved models of their products, with cost-cutting shortcuts that they would never put into a dealer product.

Support and parts are nonexistent.  We get that stuff donated, and it's the same story - you call the dealer, they hear the model number and say  "That's a Home Depot special, there are no OEM parts for that." It's a throwaway.  The zero parts commonality suggests to me a different manufacturer altogether.

So is Pella making a shaved version of their window by the thousands for Home Depot?  Oh, very likely.  Hundreds of manufacturers do it.  Part of the deal is they show up on pallets, and obviously are not custom-fit.  Some replacement window manufacturers are able to build to your dimensions.

That said, it really pays to search for products more broadly than big-box stores and well-advertised "replacement window" manufacturers.  Both of them are complete ripoffs, and they are exploiting the fact that you just don't know what else to do, and this seems easiest.  They profit by seeming easiest.

Also, keep in mind the whole "replacement window" game is itself kind of a racket.  It's the nature of replacement windows to need to be replaced sooner than you'd like.


What's the minimum distance for a mantle above a fireplace? I'm wall mounting a flat TV above a mantle, above a wood fireplace. The mantle is quite high, so to get the right viewing angle, and because the mantle is hideous, I'd like to replace it and move it as low as possible.

What is the minimum distance for a mantle above a fireplace? There are no glass doors - just a chain mail curtain. This would be for Ontario if that helps. A fireplace sales associate mentioned 12 inches but wasn't sure.

I was just about to ask this last week.  I found the NFPA Guidelines here - don't go to their site or you get a 1000 page PDF.  I agree with DA01 - fireplace TVs hurt the neck.


Should I refinish hardwood floor with scratches? I am in a process to to get my hardwood refinished. The floor have few deep scratches and is of oak type hardwood. My question is:

1) Stain or not to Stain ?
   Is it a good idea to stain the hardwood floor if it have significant scratches. I think many of scratch will go away with sanding process, but i am still sceptic if staining can make the scratches more noticeable?

2) If after deep sanding i have surface imperfection in floor is "sanding + clear coat" will be better than "Sanding + Staining + clear coat?"

If the scratches are all in the finish rather than gouging the wood, then (depending on what finish is already there) a "screen and re-coat" pass might be another option. That approach just roughs and somewhat levels the surface of the existing finish, then lays down a fresh coat on top of it. Faster and cheaper, can yield good results if the floor's basically in good condition, doesn't cut into the "wear layer" of laminate flooring as much as a full refinish would... but won't take out any deeper damage and may not be applicable for all finishes, especially if they've had polishes/waxes applied on top of them.

(I just know it's an option, can't advise on details. Personally, I sorta like the fact that some of my floors have clearly been in use as long as the house has stood here; as long as there's enough finish to protect the wood and it's clear enough to let me see the wood, I'm happy.)

Unless you want to darken the wood, I wouldn't consider staining unless necessary to match color in a damaged area... especially since you have to strip ALL the varnish off first or the stain will go down unevenly. Remember that wood looks different dry than it does either wet or under a varnish (try wiping it with denatured alcohol to get a better sense of what it will look like when varnished). Also remember that the varnish may add some color of its own, depending on what you use.


Feasibility of using 18V batteries to power AC tools I have a few (working) 18V batteries (Makita, LXT) and I would like to be able to power some AC (220V) power tools with them. Many of the AC power tools have electronic control and simply applying DC to them would not achieve anything good, probably.

Is it feasible to connect these batteries (series, parallel) and use an inverter to output a decent 220V AC output? Is there some other way to use them to power existing AC power tools?

It's possible but not as easy as stringing them into an inverter.
DeWalt makes a device for this purpose in their 20v line.

https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/generators-and-portable-power/1800-watt-portable-power-station-and-simultaneous-battery-charger/dcb1800b


Is my attic floor over my garage strong enough to use it for storage and maybe as a small work area? I would like to use the attic space above my 2-car garage for storage of items around the house and garage, and if possible, utilize some of the space as a small work area. The previous owners left the space with some randomly placed pieces of particle board and other flat wood (including an old door!) over the joists to aid with walking around up there. I want to put down some consistent thickness plywood or good quality particle (fiber) board as flooring.

But first, I need to make sure that what I have is strong enough, and if not, get some good ideas on how to strengthen it adequately. I would like to get some expert advice regarding this.

I have included a set of photos that have text in them to help explain my situation and my questions. Thinking that strengthening is a good idea, I included some ideas I have for that, explained in the photos. I would like to know if my proposal is adequate to strengthen the floor sufficiently.

Please review what I've shown and explained and give me your feedback. It would be greatly appreciated!

After posting my questions and original photos, Chileab Construction gave me some great feedback and asked some good questions. Based on what I've learned I am proposing to add a steel H-beam across the span of my attic space in order to strengthen/stiffen the floor. Chileab asked about the load bearing points for the beam, so I took some additional pictures and created a couple of sketches (first sketch without the beam; second sketch with the proposed beam added) to help show this. I am looking forward to what Chileab Construction thinks about this idea (and others who might want to comment).

I read David French's question and I would like to answer him here. David asked how I attached the joists to the underside of the steel beam. What I did was use pieces of heavy gauge steel L-brackets that I bought at a local home improvement store (Menards). I used two L-brackets per joist, one at each side of the steel beam. It's been over 3 years now since I worked on this, but I believe I remember that I used 3/8" carriage bolts to attach each L-bracket to the joist (two carriage bolts per L-bracket). I used a washer under each nut, between the nut and the L-bracket. I believe I used locking nuts. For attaching the top of each L-bracket to the bottom flange of the steel H-beam I decided to create a "sandwich" type of joint using strips of fairly heavy weld steel "straps" (I think 1/8" thick), that I also bought at the home improvement store, along with a stack of thick washers. I used a heavy high grade steel 1/2" bolt to run through each L-bracket, the washer stack, and the steel strap. The result was a joint formed by clamping the edge of the beam flange between the steel strap and the L-bracket, with the stack of washers there to symmetrically load the bolt (distribute the clamp load across the washers and the beam flange edge, and not allow the edge of the beam flange to try to slip out). This is kind of hard to explain, so I will include some pictures that I took back at the time to hopefully help you see what I'm talking about. Something to note is that I had to grind off a good amount of each washer so that I could keep the 1/2" bolt close to the edge of the beam flange for best strength of the joint. (Each stack of washers thickness equaled the thickness of the beam flange.)

More views:

You have 2x6 joists 16" o.c. and lets assume #2 fir- the MAXIMUM spam (where they are supported underneath - bearing the weight) for a 20 lb dead load is 9'10" and for 10 lb dead load: 13' 2"
You show 11' +- in photo but it is unclear if there is support at that point.
you can check span table at:
https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/wfcm/AWC-WFCM2018-ViewOnly-1711.pdf

There is some interesting framing in that attic: The 2x4 at the peak of the triangle which is set on top of the ceiling joists is very odd, in my opinion.  It is transferring a load from the roof to the ceiling, and unless there is a wall underneath: you probobly have a bow in the ceiling at that point below.

Soooo: minimal storage, depending upon support at the 11' 3/4" point - Once you put a floor downs there even with the intentions of keeping it light up there - people forget in time.. . . .

As to the beefing up the joists with 2x8s that is an option - but the total span is more important. Is the entire width unsupported? and if so what is that total span?


How could I extend a baby gate at the bottom? Our 11 month old is starting to crawl, and it is beyond time to put a baby gate at the top of the stairs. We received a baby gate, along with instructions, which clearly state that the maximum acceptable gap on the sides and along the bottom is 3 inches. Due to the weird moldings opposite the gate and at the bannister post, we would have to mount this particular gate somewhat higher that we would like. The gap at the bottom would be approximately 4 inches. My wife, the mama lion and stickler for details, is uneasy about this, and wants to extend the gate downwards, somehow, to achieve a sub 3 inch gap. I am not ashamed to have two pieces of scrap plywood bolted to each other, but was looking for other ideas.

Measure your baby. The 3" gap is based on (a) minimum baby size across all babies expected to use the units, plus (b) a generous quantity of CYA on the manufacturer's part. Thus, 4" is likely just fine, and you can verify this by figuring out the minimum gap that your actual baby can squirm through, plus enough extra to satisfy you and your wife (reasonable and sane people) rather than lawyers who smell blood (and/or money).


Switching out old broken shaver socket for new one. Having trouble working out how to unwire the existing socket I'm trying to work out how to unwire an existing shaver socket.
There are no obvious fasteners to loosen, just these weird red tabs that click backwards and forwards and can be pulled out entirely. Trying these options though doesn't seem to make any difference to the cables, which I'm unable to remove.

It's pretty hard to Google for this issue.
FYI, I'm in the United Kingdom.
Any ideas?

Cheers.

For over a year, this "unanswered" question has had an answer and acceptance in the comments:

Looks like push-to-release connectors. So try pushing and removing the
wire at same time.... at worst you can cut the wires as next as you
can to the box and rewire the new outlet. – DDS May 19 '18 at 9:22
Turns out they were push to release connectors. Thanks for the
assistance guys. – Iain May 19 '18 at 13:08


How to safely run power out to pond pump? I built a pond that is about 50 feet from the house and nearest outlet and need to run a pond pump in it. The pond is too large for the solar-powered pumps I have seen.
I considered simply buying a long extension cable, but we recently had a flash flood, and had I run the cable out, it would have been a foot underwater.
Is there a safe way to run power out to the pond pump?

Yes, you're going to want to run either a direct-burial cable or a conduit in a trench from your home to the pond.  You'll also want to pull a permit for this work even if you plan to do it yourself and be sure you understand the code requirements in your location so that you don't make an expensive mistake and have to pull it out and re-do the work.


Identifying a Manual Gas Shutoff Valve for Water Heater I've been reviewing some instructions before flushing my water heater - and one of the first instructions is to shut off the gas valve to the appliance.

The trouble is, I'm just not certain enough to proceed. Is what I'm looking at is the shutoff valve mentioned in the instructions on the heater? How can I tell?

In case it isn't clear from my little collage below. The valve is located prior to the on the only pipeline leading to the "gas in" location on the honeywell thermostat whose manual I've found, here.

That is a plug type valve. It is your gas shut off. You need wrench to turn it. You can just turn off power by unplugging electrical cord and it will be okay. Do not leave it on. If the burner lights without water in tank you can damage tank.


Safely Driving Nails Into Roof I am looking at a job where I will be driving nails into the apex of a roof to secure roof anchors.  My concern is accidentally hitting an electrical line on the underside of the roof.  Is this an unwarranted concern given electrical codes and/or standards?  On every youtube video and home improvement show the roofers drive nails into the roof as if there were no chance of striking an electrical line on the other side.  Left to my own devices, I would probably at least use a non-contact voltage tester (such as the one made by Klein Tools).

Typically if there are any wires in the attic attached to the roof framing, they will be on the underside of the rafters well separated from the surface you are planning on installing the roof anchors.

The only wires I could ever think would be of concern are wires that would run to an attic light. They will be attached to the sides of the rafters well below where nail points will be that you will be driving. All other wires would be in the ceiling joists for room lighting, etc.


What is this type of clamp called? I'm trying to identify a type of clamp that can hold some piece perpendicular to a surface. The clamp looks like two cylinders molded together by an arc shape. The arc shape exerts a spring force. See the figure below. Left: the red circle outlines the clamp. It is embedded in some epoxy, and the white rectangle is a blank label that can be seen through the epoxy. Please ignore the epoxy and the label. Right: a side-view schematic of the clamp (not to scale).
In the photo on the left, the part is holding "piece held in place" perpendicular to the circular faces of the epoxy. In the schematic on the right, the black lines represent a cross-section of the clamp itself. The physical cross section should have about 1mm thickness.
I want to order the clamp itself, but do not know what search terms to use. The clamp material is a type of plastic, though I'm pretty sure metal ones are also sold. Please direct me to the right community if this is not the proper place for this question.

I don't know what it's called, but I know how they are made. It's a roll of spring steel,  about 3 layers, unrolled, and then rolled from both ends. Your diagram was close, but not quite right.


Socket replacement wiring Hi all, 2nd and final request today, this one is a replacement socket, But again the internal wiring isn't looking particularly normal. Any help will be great. I'm in the UK.

It looks like you need to connect:

Red to the 'L' terminal (brown)
Black to the 'N' terminal (blue)
Green to the earth terminal (green / yellow)

Your wiring is the in old colour scheme and the socket is marked with the new (harmonised) colour scheme.

(By the way, from the photo, the existing wiring looks like it could be the (very) old rubber insulated type of cable, which you may well need to seriously think about replacing).


Backsplash moulding with an outlet So I made the mistake of hiring a handyman to put in our beautiful butcher block counter tops the other day, and they left a 3/4 inch gap between the countertop and wall, which used to be covered by a 3/4 inch back splash that we also wanted replaced.

So on the advice of the designer, we bought some nice pine boards and had them tacked up. The idea now is to add some moulding and footing to make it blend a little better with the butcher block. Does anyone have any ideas how to get around the outlets that are going to be near the back splash? we're racking our brains and would rather not pull the pine boards down.

In my opinion, the splash needs to be removed and point up the wall were the old splash used to reside and repaint. Then install a splash using the same specie of wood the countertop is made of, but prefinish it ahead of time before it is installed. No other blending needed.


Pulling wire close to ceiling vs along wall at normal receptacle height I’ve built a small workshop and I’m beginning to workout where I want the receptacles and where I want switches and lighting.
Is there anything wrong with pulling wire up close to the ceiling instead of down low?
And also bring 90% of the wiring distribution in through the top of the panel?
The building is stand-alone 14x34‘ and I have multiple doors and windows to pull wires over. Almost all of my receptacles will be at 53” from the floor. It just doesn’t make sense to me during the rough in drilling holes to run wire over a doorway then down and back up over the next doorway.

The way you are prescribing to run the wire will not be an issue at all, especially if the receptacles are higher than 48", it may even save you some wire??
You may already know this, do make sure you do not pull the wiring tight. When running through studs, turning into a stud bay, let the change in direction allow the wiring to "sweep" into the new direction.


Can I fish electrical down to the basement to add a new outlet? I want to add an outlet behind my TV, and another in a nearby coat closet for the cable box. I don't have an outlet in a stud cavity below the TV so I need to fish one from ~6 feet over.

I'd like to keep the outlet on the same circuit (for my sanity when shutting things off later). Is it acceptable to run electrical down from the existing outlet into the basement and then back up into the wall cavity behind the TV? Or should I cut an extra hole in the drywall below the TV and drill holes horizontally, and fish it up from there?

Electricity doesn't care much whether it runs vertically or horizontally (it really only cares how far it runs).

Often the easiest way to add an outlet or switch is to run it down through a basement or up through an attic. So long as the cable is properly buried in the wall cavities and you don't unreasonably compromise structural members, there should be no problem.

This assumes, of course, that you are not overloading a circuit, that you are using the proper gauge of wire, and that any exposed cabling is in a permitted area (usually an unfinished basement or attic is okay under most local codes).  You also need to make sure cables are properly tacked down and not subject to damage, and that as you drill, you are not hitting other cables, pipes, or leaving hidden cables too close to a surface where they might get damaged in the future.


Touch up my garage floor after applying epoxy coating We put RustOleum epoxy floor paint on the garage floor. There were light streaks on it when it dried. We repainted the light spots and reapplied the sparkles. It looks like its not going darken to match the rest of the floor.

What might be the reason why?

The first layer dried quicker because of the moisture in the concrete. The part where you repainted was on top of the first coat and takes longer to completely dry. Hopefully, when it does, the colors will match.


Which plumbing adapter to join 3/4" FIP line to 3/4" Female NPT inlet port? My main water line currently feeds into a water filter using a 3/4" FIP x 3/4" FIP x 24" braided stainless steel water heater connector line:

http://www.hardwareworld.com/Water-Heater-Connector-~-24-pRNH8OE.aspx

I'm replacing the water filter with a new filtering system that has a plastic 3/4" NPT female thread.  My understanding is that the 3/4" NPT female thread is really the same thread as a 3/4" FIP.  Please correct me if I'm wrong on that.

The instructions for the new filter state that I should only use plastic fittings to connect the water supply to the filter.  Using a metal fitting may damage the plastic threads of the filter inlet port.

So, what kind of fitting should I use to connect the stainless steel 3/4" FIP to the plastic female 3/4" inlet port.  It would seem somewhat obvious that I need a 3/4" MIP to 3/4" MIP fitting.  But, I'm not sure what material it would be.  The filter instructions just say plastic, but I'm not sure which type of plastic I should be using.  I'm also having a problem locating a fitting like this online regardless of material type.  Where would I buy something like this?

This is a picture of my filter and I can tell that they have some type of fitting there to make the connection between the copper and the filter.  I'm looking for something similar, but as described above, to connect to the water heater connector line:

Thank you in advance.

You'll want a 3/4" nylon hex nipple. Commonly they're available in white, gray, and black, though other colors may be available. More importantly, you'll want to make sure the fittings are NSF/ANSI 61 compliant. NSF/ANSI 61 certifies that the fitting is suitable as a drinking water system component.


Why is water still above elements after draining hot water tank? Went to change "element" AFTER draining hot water tank using hose attached to drain nozzle at bottom of tank. Drained for almost an entire day.
When I went to unscrew and changed existing element (bottom) on electric tank WATER came out like tank was still full.

I'm concerned about all the water that got between outer tank & inner tank and how to "dry out".
I'm concerned about turning electricity back on.
I'm concerned that I got over 3 pots of water after all the time taken to drain.

At this point on what I should & should not do?

As been pointed out there will be some residual amounts of water left in the hot (and cold) lines even when the tank is empty. Which is you should open the valve farthest from the tank as it is being drained. The other problem I noted is that unless you have an immense (100 gl.) water heater or a very narrow drain valve the shouldn't take so long to drain. What might be happening is hard water deposits have collected at the bottom of the tank enough to slow and block water draining through the valve. Did you happen to notice a build up of whitish flakes on the ground?

To check that the tank is completely empty and not just clogged at the drain valve: open TPR valve and connect the drain hose to a spigot and slowly reverse the water flow back into tank with a couple of short 'on/off' bursts. Air will escape through the TPR valve indicating that the drain valve is open.


How can I fix a leaky door with new compression stripping? I have two exterior doors that are leaking air, they shut fine and the weather stripping is the original installed when the house was built about 8 years ago (with the exception that I replaced today).

The doors use compression weatherstripping like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_29415-81-91868_4294929691__?productId=1082127&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

However, it doesn't fill the entire gap. The back door does seal if I press on the door once it's closed (it has to move about 3mm to seal the gap). But I can't figure out how to make it close more tightly. The front door, the door isn't completely square the the gap at the bottom is wider than the strip.

What should I do to seal my doors?

Something moved or warped. The door, the door jambs, the wall...

Easiest thing to do is add additional weather stripping. They make weather stripping that comes on either wood or aluminum strips for attaching to the door jambs. Comes with either the D style weatherstrip or the kerf style which you purchased. It's basically what you bought with a rigid piece that you can drive screws through. Kits come with 2 long pieces for the sides and 1 for the top.

Cut each to size place on door stop on outside of door and screw it into place. If the door isn't perfectly plumb you can install it a little off plum. If there's a little warp in the door you can notch the back of the aluminum ones to bend it into shape a little.

Lock your door, including deadbolt then attach them from the outside making sure not to press them up against the door too tight or you won't be able to unlock the deadbolt.


Chirping Flourescent Light Fixture The flourescent lights in one end my basement have not worked since I moved in last December. I prefer incandescent lighting, so I wasn't concerned about it. A few days ago, one of the fixtures started making a strange "chirping" noise. It sounds like a smoke detector battery signal, but it is definitely coming from the light fixture. There are two fixtures on one switch; the second fixture isn't making any noise.

For older types of fitting, it might be a fluorescent starter continuously attempting to start a dead tube. If so, removing the starter would stop the noise.


Venting Bathroom Exhaust Fan Can I run the bathroom fan vent into the already installed sewer vent? Previously it was just vented into the attic but is causing mold to grow up there because of the  moisture.

A bathroom exhaust fan needs to be vented outside the home!. This sewer pipe is where the waste goes and will not provide a good or safe vent. Vents on the waste pipes prevent the water from being sucked out of the traps, or u bends, if the gasses can come back into the home there can be bad smells and at the worst methane explosions.


Using existing gas connection for new gas range? I would like to connect a regular GE gas stove like this to a connector that was used by a Vulcan residential gas range (similar to the one here)

Here is some information on the existing connector:

This is the pipe that supplies the gas to the Vulcan range.

This pipe has a nut attached to it. I unscrewed it and took pictures of it:

What would I need to do to use this existing gas connection with this regular GE gas stove?

Is it something that I can do?

I would call this a very simple job, if you can change a car tire this would be easier.  The basics are proper sealing compounds or tape at the joints, usually 2 adjustable wrenches or a pipe wrench and an adjustable wrench are the only tools needed. And last a bubble leak solution to check the new connections.

Some fittings use special pipe tape it is yellow or an approved for gas pipe dope going from pipe to the flair fitting.  After leak checking your fittings I will literally a match at a burner and turn it on, it may take a minute for the air to be purged from the lines, once a burner lights I do the others and the oven. I do the oven last because many of the ones I have had use a hot surface ignition and I like to reduce the amount of time that is firing.
It really not difficult at all. Using the proper gas rated flex pipe and make sure the fittings are the correct size is critical. Depending on your connection to the gas system you may not need any sealant at all. It could be flair fittings then being clean and following the instructions like hand tight and 1/4 additional turn then checking for leaks. It is quite simple but some basic safety checks are important.


Are there square/ rectangle/ U openable/ open panel conduits that have one side panel that can be opened & closed? Are there square/ rectangle/ U openable/ open panel conduits that have one side panel that can be opened & closed?

Will be doing a up / down cable/ pull for current/ future optic Fiber etc. so the rest of its journey is hidden under false ceiling frame (shown in pic).
It's largely Outer Wall to Center of Condo thing as ISPs dangle fibers externally (yes, welcome to Asia)
I am sharing a picture of this from my Phone shortly so that it becomes clear

Color Code for Items in Diagram/ Picture:

Green: Pull Boxes (Since they recommend replacing Conduit bends with Pull boxes)

One above False Ceiling Panel
One somewhere below the Desk (Between Floor & Desk Height)

Yellow Thick: Direction of Cable

Above: Inner Wall towards further indoors
Below: Outer Wall to Inside of Wall

Pink: 2 Possible wall locations for Conduit with Panel

Required Solution:

I'd like to place such a U - square/ rectangle Conduit that has an open-able panel in one of the Walls in the Corner.

Update to Question: Please update answers as required

I'd want it not be Surface mounted on the wall but
Recessed / concealed into the wall with only Removeable Panel / related parts at Surface. Pref 1.25 / 1.5"
Hence the point of the question.
Someone may cry why do you want/ need. Please do not bother.
I am trying to future proof against certain stuff that's been experienced before.

Are there such items and what are they called?

This is not a shopping question, but trying to figure out what items can be used to fulfill the need for the required application scenario.

Surface mount gutter if you want the wireway where the red box is would work. Wire mold also makes some listed wireways that look much nicer than standard gutter. Added per op comment, if there are taps in the wireway / gutter it must be accessible per NEC 378.56, but if just used like conduit it can be concealed the same as conduit. There are 2 main types some are hinged and some have a flat metal cover that are screwed to the gutter. I am sure with some clever trim it could be easy to conceal and open at a later time, the max fill is 20% 376.22.A and the nice thing is less than 30 conductors no derate is required. 376.22.B.


Can I remove this mold by myself? I am living in a single room-appartment that has one window, a kitchen unit with no steam outlet/exhaust hood, and a bathroom with no windows but an (albeit small) ventilated outlet above the shower. Several spots inside my room display mold characteristics, which combined with the obvious ventilation problems of the appartment lead me to the assumption they are mold.

Here are some Pictures for reference:

In addition, part of my furniture and filing folders stored inside display white spots that spread above surfaces:

The majority of the appartment floor is covered by carpet on top of PVC flooring. The carpetting was done by the previous occupant, so I have no idea what the floor looks like underneath (not sure if I wanna take a peak).
From outside, the walls of this appartment building show dark spots on most appartments, which also makes me think that there is some problem with the building itself.

My Questions are:

1) Is this problem solveable by using home remedies and readily available treatments and wall paint, at least in the short term (1-2 years-ish)?

2) If so, how can I tackle it? If not, how and where do I get help?

More pictures can be provided if necessary.

Yes that is mold and it's very common bathrooms.

Yes you can try to remove it yourself.

Make a bleach solution with 1 tablespoon bleach and 1 cup warm water with 1-2 drops of soap. Dish washing soap is fine.
Put on eye protection.
Use an old toothbrush to scrub at the mold to remove it. The soap should help remove the mold and the bleach will help kill it but keep in mind mold often stains things.

Source: I get this mold all the time in the bathroom and I've tried various ways to fix it. Sometimes I just have to remove the old caulk and add new caulk. The best way is prevention with good ventilation.

Some more tips:

If you or the landlord paints over this, add mold inhibitor to the paint. It will help on painted surfaces.
I've found mold living on painted aluminum window frames. So there must be something there in the paint for it to eat. This mold can grow in unexpected places.
If you are a renter, this might be a health code violation and that means you can get the landlord to fix it. Look into a renter's association in your area for advice.
Or make a deal with the landlord. If he buys the paint with mold inhibitor, you can paint the bathroom for free.
You can buy buckets of moisture absorber, which is essentially calcium chloride, sold as non-salt ice melt in the winter. This stuff is also sold as moisture absorber at the Dollar Tree, but only in the small buckets. Online the big buckets are more expensive. DT link. Link to product image.


How do I soundproof my vaulted townhouse wall? I want to soundproof my wall.  In fact, it's this wall:

I know, right?  It would probably be an enormous task, but I really want to get it soundproofed because I have a neighbor on the other side and my entertainment center is right up against the wall.  I have no speakers mounted on the wall, so that helps, but I am afraid that the bass from my subwoofer is just tearing through that wall.  If you must know, it's a 5.1 system with the two front speakers mounted on stands and placed next to the TV.  The center speaker is the one I am mainly concerned about.

If it's too much of a job to insulate such a huge wall, then perhaps there's something i can put between the wall and the entertainment center.

I have heard of foam insulation and mass-loaded vinyl (which I really like the idea of), but just want to hear some tips from the stack folks.

Edit: Is the home improvement forum on StackExchange brand new or something?  The word insulate isn't a tag?  Neither are condo or townhouse.  Could someone with some rep add these?

Check out Holmes on Homes, Mike Holmes did an episode in season 5 called Wall of Sound, which tackled this issue.

Comment converted to answer.


delta pull out faucet wont swivel I took lever handle off, cap on valve body, sprayed some wd 40 on the swivel top and bottom, still cannot get it to swivel, or pull off.  Any other tricks? using heat froh heat gun?

Be sure there is nothing holding it in place like a threaded collar. The 2 rubber o-rings are probably gummed and stuck to the faucet body. Add some hot soapy water and swivel with slow hard pressure in either direction. The bottom o-ring is hardest to lubricate. Once you have it rotating, use a screwdriver blade to apply upward pressure while you rotate the faucet arm. Clean everything and use silicone grease for assembly.


Is it a problem to have gaps and holes in the subfloor of a hardwood floor? I've been pulling moulding and trim off and on for a few days for an upcoming custom closet install. The community was great in helping me to figure out ways to get the trim off the wall. I've discovered some oddities with the subfloor and wanted your opinions.
Is it normal for these types of gaps and holes to appear on the subfloor of a hardwood floor? The closet is on the second floor but there seems to be considerable gaps between the drywall and edges of the plywood. The wall that this sits on is an exterior garage wall. I'm concerned that this is a sign of a problem with the subfloor that should be fixed. Are these holes and gaps anything to worry about, aside from vermin and pests? Can I seal them with expanding foam, do I need a flooring contractor to come fix this, or is this relatively normal?
Thanks again for your help.

Vermin would be my only concern. Spray foam is not the best sealer for the critters but staple some steel wool over the opening and put the spray foam on that.
The foam encapsulates the steel wool using less foam and critters don’t like chewing on the steel wool (they will tunnel through spray foam very quickly).
Those gaps look larger than I like but as long as your trim covers the edges there is nothing to worry about, possibly a rodent highway under the trim if not filled but no structural issues.


Asbestos paper-like material on sides of cold air return I am currently entertaining thoughts of furnishing my basement. I was wondering if this paper-like paste on the sides of the entire cold air return duct is going to pose a problem as far as health risks. There is also on other small area around a heating duct where this same material is located on an wide and flat elbow-like piece that goes right up to and through the floor and connected to the exhaust chimney (about a 3 ft by 2 ft area covered with this plaster, paper-like stuff).

I was wondering if I could seal/encapsulate these areas then carefully drywall around the cold air return. This house was build in 1947 and I think i am somewhat lucky and very thankful I'm not dealing with even more areas covered with asbestos. Do you guys think I should just have the cold air return removed along with the other area or can I seal it up somehow?

None of these areas look very disturbed other than an area on a beam where my parents had to have some asbestos professionally removed because before they replaced the furnace 15 yrs ago. Wish they would have removed at least this elbow piece. I sorta remember my dad being pissed that they wouldn't replace the furnace until it was removed. They should have removed this elbow piece also.

Get a quote for removal or if you're uncomfortable with all of its hype, then definitely have someone else get rid of it. Do get rid of it, don't pass it on.

But, here's what you're in for if you're adventurous & it's accessible, water is the key & removes all of asbestos' harm.

Of course, get an N95 mask, goggles, nitrile gloves, duct tape & disposable jumpsuit with a hood. All go in the trash, wrap them in the tarps.

Tarp the floor & whatever else you can with a disposable tarp (tape multiple tarps together for verticals running onto horizontals) as this will be your final clean-up & catch-all. You actually want to tuck the floor's tarp edge in your belt & not actually walk on the tarp's top side (so you don't track anything out of the work area). When everything's done you'll water-down again & brush one last time onto the tarp.

But first, it's just a water soaking & clear bag wrapping process (in that order) to then pull, scrape & brush it clean off within the bag. It's not radioactive like some people try to portray in its "danger". I've done it 6-times over the last 20-years & I don't have any asbestosis whatsoever.

You'll want to rinse off the sealed bags outside or down a drain along with the tools after each section is completed. Like above, the tools get left in the rolled-up tarps. Remove excess air from the bags outside & then double bag everything so trash-men nor anyone else aren't accidentally exposed.

The next day you can brush-paint over the areas to remove any doubt & lingering "danger". Toss the brush & paint, because OMG...I'm kidding but you can for a clean & clear conscience & refreshed Aura. This is all way overkill & asbestos is in everyone's air & always has been. But, done & done right aren't the same thing & no-one should be unknowingly subjected to any bulk amount of fibers.

Let me know if I left anything out, please.


How do I remove mold seeping from under the toilet? I'm  not sure if this is the right forum to ask this question. If not could you point me in the right direction?

How do we get rid of orange mold under the toilet?

 We've tried scraping it off with a knife and putting bleach where we can, but it still comes back weekly.

There are also calcium deposits in some of the grooves in the tile surrounding our toilet.

UPDATE: The "mold" in the picture ended up being that the plumber installed wood shims when our house was built only about 1.5 years ago. The wood shims were removed.

SECOND UPDATE: The builder came back again because it really was mild (happened again with plastic shims). A piece on the toilet (not sure of its name) was defective--the part of the toilet that connects to the flange. Builder said they had never seen this before.

By scraping away the mold you are only treating the symptom, not addressing the cause.

The mold is being fed by leakage from the toilet or drain.  The odds are more than 99% it is coming from a leaking waste connection.

To fix it, remove the toilet, clean it up and reinstall.

The directions for removal and re-installing are here.  You'll need a $6 wax ring and a couple hours depending on the condition of the fastening bolts, how handy you are, and luck.


Table with 45 degree corner groove I'm not a carpenter, so forgive me if this is obvious. Also, I'm Brazilian so forgive my English.

I want to build a table with only 3 MDF plates, but I want the corners to have "45 degree grooves", like this:

Because it's a table, the top plate must be resistant to heavy load, so I came-up with this design:

I want to know if there is another design that has simpler cut, or some kind of steel screws, bolts or whatever steel parts, or some glue that allows me to simply cut the edges in 45 degrees, make some fixing holes and safely attach the top and wall plates together.

It's important to me that externally, both the side and corner cut lines be as thin as possible.

Please provide pictures or hyperlinks. If there is some sort of online manual to do these kind of things, I would appreciate!

A more typical way to strengthen a miter joint is to use either splines or biscuits.  Splines can be oriented in one of two ways.  It's probably easier to show pictures than to explain in words:

a) Spline running the entire miter.  With this method you can also make the grooves stopped so the spline would not be visible at the edges.  If you are working with MDF you can cut the spline so the grain is running the length of the spline, as opposed to the way it is shown in the example.

b) Reinforcing with biscuits.  This is similar to (a) except that it requires that you have the biscuit joiner to cut the pockets for the manufactured biscuits.  This is definitely the easiest and fastest of these three options.

c) Multiple splines cut through the miter.  The third method can be made into a decorative element if the splines are made from a contrasting color of wood.


How to reattach a tub overflow pipe that is offset from the tub I recently discovered that the overflow drain that is supposed to be connected to the overflow outlet on my bathtub is...well, not. Taking off the cover of the overflow outlet, I see the pipe freestanding and disconnected, a couple of inches away from the hole.

This explains that strange waterfall sound I heard while taking a bath a few months ago, but more importantly I want to fix it now that I know about it. There is no access panel (which, since the whole bathroom was renovated by a big box store right before we bought it, is yet another item on the list of "You've Got To Be Kidding Me").

To complicate matters, the pipe is offset from the tub hole by about an inch. The drain pipe is sitting higher than the hole of the tub. This is probably why they didn't hook it up to begin with.

What I need is to fix this; reattach the drain pipe to the overflow hole in the tub. What I want is to fix this without cutting an access panel or basically any plumbing of any kind. Any ideas?

All you need is a thick wire that can be bent into a U-shape at one end.  Place the cover back into the outlet hole, insert the U-shaped wire into the outlet pipe and try to grab the outlet pipe to hold it in place. Lift the outlet pipe and slowly screw the top cover to the outlet. Tighten the top cover to the outlet pipe with a pair of pliers.