Why doesn't my water pressure change when I adjust the water pressure regulator? My water pressure in the house is 130psi. This is way too high and is causing my appliances to fail. I have a water pressure regulator but when I adjust it, all the way up or all the way down, the water pressure remains at 130 psi. I have tried to adjust it with the main valve from the city on as well as turning it off. Neither seems to have an effect. What am I doing wrong?

THese are the steps I am taking to adjust the water pressure regulator:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/adjust-psi-water-pressure-reducing-valve-75198.html

Sounds like the rubber diaphragm inside he pressure regulator has torn, or something is in the way.
To fix be sure you have:
A pressure gauge
2 pipe wrenches able to open to about 1 1/2"
Large channel locks could substitute for one above pipe wrench
Water meter key
Crescent wrench

And the parts.  You need to find the metal tag on the regulator it will give you the model number and information about he valve.
You need to head to the local plumbing supply I'm not sure if you will be able to find the kit at a home inprovment wharehouse

You need a rebuild kit for a ####. Whatever model you have.   They may ask the size of the regulator.

Once you have the kit.  Shut the water off.  If you have a gate style valve use the meter key at the meter instead.

Use the pipe wrenches to loosen the front packing (where the adjustment screw is ). Then break loose the two unions
From there it's just a matter of replacing the diaphragm and spring. Then install.  Don't forget to use plumbing silicone grease on the rubber parts and the gaskets in the unions

Put the gauge on the hose bib and slowly turn the water on not all the way just about 1/4 open.  Check the pressure.  Most regulators come set around 55psi  this is recommended unless you have an RO system then I recommend upwards of 70 psi.


Should I have replaced my water heater's shut-off gate valve with a ball valve? I replaced my water heater's cold water shut-off gate valve with a ball valve...because the gate valve didn't close all the way and was dripping water while I was working (installing a sediment filter.)

I'm assuming that, since ball valves are superior to gate valves, pretty much every plumber would agree that doing this was a good thing, but if there are any professional plumbers present, I'm curious to know what your thoughts are.

I'm not a professional plumber (though I did work on water treatment systems for several years), but in my opinion what you did is fine.

Gate and globe (stop) valves are prone to corrosion and generally wear out over time. Ball valves are much more durable and reliable. I've seen many, many old stop valves that are leaking or don't shut off properly, or more often, leak as soon as you open/close them after they've not been touched for years. I can't say the same for ball valves - I've seen many that were installed for many years and still worked. I can even think of a couple where the outside looked totally corroded, and though it took a lot of force to turn (and sometimes a replacement handle), they still reliably shut without leaking.

On top of the reliability, the fact they use a 1/4 turn (instead of several full turns) and a quick glance tells you whether it's open or closed, ball valves are just vastly superior to gate and globe valves for almost all residential applications. Worth the extra dollar or so they cost.

The only thing they are not as good for is applications where you want to limit/control the flow rate (such as an outside tap or sample port). They can still do that, but are harder to finely adjust, and especially when one hasn't been opened for a long time and is a bit stiff, tend to suddenly give and open to full blast (I've been sprayed while trying to take water samples many times).


What is the proper installation of a dimmer switch? I have a wall light that has 18 gauge wire.  I want to hard wire this lamp in and put it on a dimmer switch that calls for 14-2 or 12-2 wire. Can this be done? I tried to hook it up but it keeps tripping the breaker.

After a comment I think I understand your question more clearly.

Firstly, if there is 18 gauge wiring in your house then this is likely not to code and you might consider having an electrician take a look.  Too small of a conductor can be a fire hazard!  Lets hope you are referring to the fixture wiring.

With regards to cabel labeling, the -2 just refers to how many conductors are in the cable (14-2 actually has 3 - a hot, neutral and ground.  A 14-3 has 2 hots, neutral and ground).

Assuming the dimmer is rated for the load of the light, you can use the dimmer with the smaller conductor.  Just be sure to use the screw terminals and not the push-in terminals (if it has these) as they will not hold the smaller conductor.

If the breaker is tripping it means you miswired it; likely you have shorted the hot to the neutral. You want the dimmer to be in-line with the hot and not across both wires. If you are in North America, the hot side of the plug is the smaller of the holes.

Some electronic dimmers also have a neutral on them so they can be powered independently of the light.


Process and product to fix concrete slab surface issues prior to framing over them? I have some issues with the slab that was poured for a garage, and I need to frame an interior wall over a bad area.

The slab was poured with a bit too much water (5.5 slump) on a hot day in July. I think this caused some water to get trapped, which caused a top layer of concrete, about 1/4" to 1/2" thick to peel off and sound hollow under some spots. Also, the floor isn't perfectly level, as the troweling machines were put on it too soon.

What products(*) and process should be used to correct these surface defects prior to framing walls over them?

Here are some photos:

* By "product", I mean self-leveling, patch, hydraulic, ready-mix, etc, or a combination thereof, not necessarily a brand recommendation.

First off you mentioned hollow underneath, was the base compacted prior to the pour, if not the whole slab is in question as the base has settled underneath the poured concrete so putting paint on a pig is a waste of money.

But to answer your question directly - clean everything you can then use "ProBond" or another Concrete bonding promoter. If you do not use a bonding promoter it has a higher chance of separating from the base.

Then use self-leveling floor resurfacer to finish the floor.
If you are doing the whole floor and it is a large area you may want to consider talking to your local ready-mix company as they do provide mixes for self leveling of floors. It is used in apartment buildings and other large multi storied structures it is called "gypcrete" and may be your best best dollar for dollar. Oh, the results will be great.


How do I keep my conservatory roof drain clean? Our conservatory roof is made from Everlite.  The problem we have is that where the roof runs into the drain is constantly filling up with soil, stones and moss.  I have no idea where it's all coming from, but my question is: is there a way to prevent this?  It's very difficult to properly clear out the gap (as it's not very big), and the clogging causes the water to back up on the roof.

There are devices called gutter guards that allow the water to enter the gutter/drain but the debris continues over the gutter and off the edge of the roof.  Not sure if you could get one of those for your conservatory roof but you might try looking into them.


Is this bell circuit safe? I have an old-fashioned doorbell (like this one: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c1/DoorBell_001.jpg)

Is it safe to connect it directly to a power supply (I am using a ac/dc converter) or does it need a resistor?

It looks like a battery operated (DC) rather than transformer operated (AC) bell. Start off by hooking it up to a 6 V or 9 V supply for a couple of seconds and see what happens.

You don't neeed a series resistor if your supply voltage is right. The coil resistance will limit the current.


Advice on making acrylic drop seeder I would like to make a DIY drop seeder like the one shown here. I am just very inexperienced with acrylic/plexiglass as a material.

What thickness would you consider, looking at the video/image below?
How would I go about creating those circular notches on the surface?
Any considerations about cutting acrylic sheets?

A drill bit will cut holes in acrylic, but don’t use acrylic or you will probably experience breakage like your example. Use polycarbonate, a name brand is Lexan. It can be purchased in the same thickness. It is usually a bit more expensive but it will not crack even when dropped, or hit with a hammer but will preform exactly the same otherwise.


color match the nosing and the floor with correct stain color How can identify the stain color I need to get for the nosing that I've installed to match it with the color of the floor on the left side. As you can see in the photo, I've stained the nosing with a Walnut stain, but the color does not match the floor.
The floor wood is: Fuzion Engineered hardwood Northern Retreat Bronco

Good news you can always stain darker over a lighter stain, but if the wood is different than the floor, it may be a little trickier. On top of that mass produced items are stained differently than on site wood typically is. You may need to use a dye and not a stain. A dye colors all the wood, and stain soaks into the softer wood and when wiped the softer wood changes more than the harder wood. You may be able to tone the finish, but that weakens the film of protection that the clear coat gives.


How would I wire a 4 position switch? I work from home in a house with roommates and I would like to set up a light system to let them know if it's OK to disturb me during my work. I was thinking a stoplight system of Red: Do not disturb unless it's an emergency; Yellow: you can come in to get something, or if you need something quick / important; Green: consider the door open, feel free to come in and chat or whatever.

I'd like to have these lights place outside the door, and a 4 position switch on my desk that would have: Red, Yellow, Green, Off on it.

Can I wire the neutral of all the lights together so I only have 4 cables running from the switch to the lights, or should they each have a neutral running back to the switch?
Do I just hook the power to a specific terminal of the switch, and then have 3 different power lines (each from positions 3-1) out with one neutral running back and position 0 empty?
Do I need any sort of adapters if I'm going to run 25w incandescent bulbs?
Am I missing anything else?

I've been looking around for switches and think I found what I wanted in this switch, although I'm certainly open to suggestion. It's important to me that the switch be large enough that the space between positions is enough for them to be labeled and for it to be obvious to an observer which position the switch is in. I think what I'm looking for is a 3 throw knife switch, but I don't think one exists. Perhaps I could just do a 2 throw, and have a Red / Green / Off? Or maybe use a 2 throw for the RYG, and then a separate kill switch that turns it all off?

Theorized image:

your drawing is exactly right, except that there should be no breaks in the grounded (neutral) conductor, and that you'll likely have to have a grounding conductor throughout the circuit as well. You should also be able to find a rotary switch with 3 positions plus off, though it might be a bit pricey.

So your wiring could look something like this


Need help finding the right replacement screws I have lost the screws for my digital Piano, and would like to buy new ones from Home Depot or a local hardware store. The manual has some info, but it seems that I also need the tread size to find the proper screw. Any ideas how I can find the right screws?

Some of the screws appear to have threads for wood (or plastic). The actual thread pitch isn't terribly important, so just buy screws of the correct size and with suitable heads.
Screw E is obviously a machine screw. 4mm screws typically have a standard thread pitch (0.70mm), so what you find should work. If there are multiple options, buy both and try them.
In case some of the 5mm screws are actually machine thread, common pitch is 0.80mm. Again, trial and error. They aren't usually expensive, and if you're careful with the packaging you can return leftovers.


Is it okay to store bamboo flooring in the garage before installation? I just purchased some Cali Bamboo strand bamboo from a local installer that arrived yesterday. The installer was here to receive it (I was at work) and stacked it in the garage, boxes unopened.

The manufacturer's website recommends opening the boxes and sticker-stacking bamboo in the house , but the installer said the garage is fine. I wasn't able to get a hold of the manufacturer over the weekend to confirm that the garage was definitely a bad idea, but my understanding and some internet searching seemed to suggest otherwise.

Can anyone weight in on how big of a deal it is to have it in the garage rather than inside the house? It's about 1800 sq/ft worth, so I don't want to move it myself or make a big stink with the installer before I confirm that garage is definitely a no-go.

I'm in SF Bay Area (East Bay) and the bamboo came from Los Angeles warehouse -- pretty similar climate. I'm not sure what the temp / humidity difference between the house and the garage is, but overnight outside temp is about 20-25 degrees from daily high / interior temp.

Unless you live in a climate where you basically have your windows open most of the time and there is no heat or air conditioning then your flooring needs to be in your house 2-4 weeks (differs by wood type and climate).

So given your conditioned space in San Fran I would say that you need to move it in.  The wood needs to be in a close approximation to the installed environment.

I don't know your installer but I would be highly highly skeptical of his knowledge and abilities given the advise.  This is flooring 101.


Is using the light switch screw OK to ground a wire? My house was built in 1950 and several light switches do not have ground wires. I believe there is no ground wire since I cannot find a wire that's bare - they are all coated.

I want to install a Lutron Motion Sensor, but it requires to connect to a ground wire. This is for a hallway light that's also controlled by another switch at the opposite end. When I installed it without connecting the wires that are expected to be connected to ground, nothing happened. Meaning, the switch did not work. I assume it was because the documentation was correct, that ground needs to be connected.

The person at the hardware store said to only connect the ground wires to the screws that afix the light switch. Is this OK? Is this safe?

If there's no grounding means in the switch box, and no neutral wire present, then the switch you have simply won't work. Get a different switch that's designed to run its
tiny control current through the attached light bulb filiment. Not an incandescent lamp, you say? Well, then, just rewire your house!


How to avoid cutting electrical wires when cutting into drywal I want to install an attic access pull down ladder in the ceiling of my garage to put plywood on the rafters for storage.  How do I know where to cut into the drywall of the ceiling without cutting wiring?

First you need to lay out the general area where you want the opening. It needs to fit between 24" centered ceiling joists.

Properly installed electric cabling is always at least 1 1/2" away from the back edge of the sheetrock (or protected by a metal shield). So, if you cut a small hole near the middle of your proposed opening with a shallow cutting tool, such as a utility knife or a multisaw, big enough to get your hand and arm through, you can reach in to make sure there are no wires draped in the area where you are working. If clear, cut a bigger hole with a drywall saw or multitool, large enough to get your head through. Insert a light and then your head and scan the area.

Now you're prepared to cut the full opening back to the joist with no surprises.


Is it allowable to have an electrical cable going into the attic through a soffit from outside? I'm adding ice cables to part of our roof. I drilled a 1 inch hole in the soffit and then got stuck getting power into the attic for an outlet.

I called an electrician who couldn't say enough how wrong it was to have the plug come into the attic, instead of having an outlet outside for it.

I'm wondering if this statement is correct, per code.

He also insisted on quoting for a home run from the box, saying the cables could draw 10-15 amps, though the instructions say the model I have draws 3.3 amps.

EDIT: from page 6 of instructions: See Table 1 below for the current needed for your cable length. If you do not have a circuit with an appropriate rating, contact a licensed electrician.
Catalog Number     Current Needed (amps)
ADKS-400                3.3

I now have renewed interest in putting the outlet in myself, with a switch, would like some clarity on if it can be in the attic with the plug coming through the soffit, or if it must be outside in the soffit. (and if outside, what to do with 6 feet of cord)

1It is very wrong. You CANNOT have a cord passing through siding, walls, or any other finished structure/surface. For both code and safety reasons.
The receptacle MUST be outside. If it is close to the heat tape you'll just need to coil the cord up.

National Electrical Code 2011
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 400 Flexible Cords and Cables
I. General
400.8 Uses Not Permitted. Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables
shall not be used for the following:
(1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
(2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended
ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
(3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings
(4) Where attached to building surfaces
Exception to (4): Flexible cord and cable shall be permitted to be
attached to building surfaces in accordance with the provisions of
368.56(B).
(5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above
suspended or dropped ceilings
(6) Where installed in raceways, except as otherwise permitted in this
Code
(7) Where subject to physical damage


How to fix an "open ground" on a receptacle that seems grounded? In the master bedroom on one wall there are two receptacle that when tested shows “open ground”, I have replaced the receptacle on both (with new tamperproof receptacles) and while doing that checked to ensure there was a “ground” wire connected from the receptacle to the box (see image below). One thing to note – the room is aluminum wiring (but so are most of the house and no other receptacles have this issue).

At this point I am not sure what could be causing it, any suggestions?
Thanks,

Well, you either have:

No connection at the box despite appearing to have one (quite
possible with aluminum wiring if the appropriate methods are not
followed, from what I understand - but I have limited personal experience there)

or

the ground wire to those boxes is broken or not connected somewhere
between those boxes and the main panel. Which actually makes lots of sense if you have two boxes in this state; probably one is connected to the other, and the wire is broken or not connected to the one that the other connects to.

I trust that as an aluminum wiring house owner your new receptacles are marked as suitable for aluminum wire?

Edit: No? Seriously?

As @Speedy Petey says, that really isn't an acceptable alternative to using the correct receptacles. House fires are not much fun. As for tracking down the problem, if this end is connected properly, you need to check the far end of the wire for a proper connection - you may find that you can identify which outlet is "next in line" by identifying the power wires feeding the probelm outlets - look there for a poor connection between the two ground wires.

@Chief Two Pencils seems to be failing to observe that you have aluminum romex with a ground wire - the problem is not a lack of ground wire, it's a lack of that ground wire being connected at some point.

You are failing to understand that the connection to the box does not "magically ground the outlet" - the box is being grounded (or rather, should be) by being connected to the ground wire coming from the cable. That wire is not connected all the way to the main panel ground from the two problem outlets. You, or a competent electrician (I'd really have doubts about continuing to use one that suggest that anti-ox paste is an adequate substitute for using CO/ALR or COALR marked devices) need to track down where that lack of connection is happening, and fix it, with a connector approved for use on aluminum wire (and it may well not be connected now becasue it was not connected with a suitable connector, or not properly prepared.)

The US CPSC advocates a more through approach of pigtailing copper wire to the ends of the aluminum wire with an approved connector to eliminate the aluminum connection fire hazard in a permanent fashion. Then you can use nice normal Cu-only connectors.

This is not a place for "creative" solutions. The house you burn down may be your own.


Should I immediately clean my paint sprayer after use? I just purchased a Wagner ProCoat sprayer. Used it for the 1st time with Valspar Ultra Zero VOC paint from Lowe's.

Do I need to clean it immediately? I'm gonna use it again next weekend. Is 1-week enough to dry the paint inside the sprayer and clog it?

Side question: What chemical should I use to "flush" the Valspar paint with? Reading the gallon, it says thin with water. So should I just flush my paint sprayer with water?

Flush the sprayer with the appropriate solvent for the material you were spraying -- water for water-borne finishes, paint thinner for oils, alcohol for shellac, ....

Yes, clean the gun as soon as you're done with it for at least a few hours, to avoid clogging. You may be able to just cap the finish cup and set it aside for later.


I have this light and I don't know how to open it I would like to replace the bulb and I don't know how to do it. I tried pulling the clips on the side out, but they don't budge. Then I tried to unscrew the clips off (hence the third picture), but the screwdriver has to be used at an angle and won't unscrew. Any advice is appreciated.

I have the same one...the definitive answer is as Grant says.  One of the clips pulls out enough to remove glass!  No screws or screwdrivers needed.


Is it OK for OSB3 boards to get wet during construction? In the UK it rains, as you know. a lot.

Is it OK for OSB3 boarding to get wet now and then during the construction of a building? or will it be completely destroyed like chip board or MDF (which absorbs liquid, expands then falls apart)

OSB won't be completely destroyed by water, unlike MDF or similar interior laminate materials; however, like any wood product, it will swell and shrink as it absorbs and releases water, so you should typically avoid more than casual contact with water.

If you watch homebuilders putting up a typical light-frame construction home, you'll notice that the framing lumber and OSB are typically delivered on pallets wrapped with Tyvek or similar "moisture barrier"; the wood is allowed to "breathe" and so to acclimate to ambient humidity, but the covering is impervious to liquid water like rain. You'll also notice that the roof of the house is sheathed, papered and shingled as soon as the frame is developed enough to support it, and if the crew is caught in a sudden downpour while the roof is going up, they'll drape and tie tarps over any section of the roof that hasn't at least gotten a layer of tar paper. This is all to protect the OSB; the framing lumber, while it doesn't benefit from getting rained on, is much more water-tolerant, as long as the lumber is allowed to dry out completely after a good soaking before it's closed in by walls and vapor barriers. Once the roof is up, the next priority is the outer side walls, again primarily OSB, and which nowadays also get a layer of Tyvek as soon as they're up even if the final exterior siding isn't put in place for days or weeks after.


What sound frequencies does a circular saw emit? I'm trying to find the best way to sound proof my garage so that using a circular saw would go un-noticed by the neighbors. ( Our strata have rules for noise regulation )

But before ordering anything, I have to figure out what kind of sounds frequencies I'm fighting with. The circular saw is pretty much the most loud tool I can think of when it come to wood works in a garage.

What sound frequencies is a circular saw blade produce when cutting wood ?

Here is a whole paper dedicated to your problem... a study of a table saw's noisiness


Curtain drain in the crawl space - Part 3 I've dug out a trench around the perimeter of my crawl space. Then I planned the next steps. I took a week off but I'd like to finish this project next weekend.

I'm going to put a 4" perforated pipe.  But my question is about the necessity of backfilling.

The trench is as low as the bottom of the footing, at least a foot deep from the top of the dirt and about a foot and a half wide.  We kinda had to dig wide for us to be able to walk.  But now I can see how this may have been an overkill since I have to fill it with gravel.  That's going to be a lot of gravel!  Something like 250 ft3!

So the question is do I really need all that gravel?  Do I need any at all?  Can't I just put a pipe wrapped in garden fabric?

I'm also considering using NDS EZ-Drain although it's quite expensive at $45/10'.  If I use that, it's not going to fill the trench.  So again do I need to backfill with gravel?

What's the purpose of the gravel in general?  I can understand how gravel is better than soil to allow the water to flow, but isn't an empty space even better?

I had to think about this one for a bit.  The real reasons for a porous backfill are to easily track water, give depth to protect drain tile from freezing, and keep it in place so it won't float in the water. As long as those goals are met you should be fine.


Repairing electrical oven - appears to be broekn thermostat, but is not I have Whirlpool Bauknecht oven, bought via Ikea a few years back. Sadly I lost the receipt so the customer service won't help me ...

Following problem: The oven heats, but does not turn of the heating elements at the set temperature. The oven turns itself off at a highter temeprature, apparently some back up temp. switch. I assumed that the thermostat is broken and baught a replacement, with the same serial number as found on the old thermostat. However, after exchanging the old vs. the new thermostat (always removing the fuses before working on the oven!), the problem persists. I also since checked the old thermostat with a cup of hot water and a continuity tester, it appears to be working.

When exchanging the thermostat, I accidently pulled one of the wires from the little lamp (that's in series with the thermostat) and I had to reconnect it with a terminal strip. Since the issue is apparantly the same as before my 'repair' that does not appear to be it.

I also continuity tested the installed, new thermostat. This also appear to work. All in all, the oven bahaves as if the thermostat were short circuited.

I've looked for wiring diagrams to understand better where the problem could lie, but had no success.

My oven:
Manufacturer: Whirlpool/Bauknecht
Type: FXZM6
Series Number: 852315201500

What's likely wrong with my oven? How to confirm and fix?

It sounds as though the wires may be shorted together. When it comes right down to it the thermostat is just cutting or energizing power like a light switch so if the wires were to touch farther down the line the switch would be worthless. I would physically trace all the wires in the circuit to make sure they aren’t bridging the thermostat. You could take both wires off the heating element and see if you have continuity with an ohm meter. Continue up the line until you get OL and your short should be there.


Circuit Not on Any Breaker, but Off with Main Breaker Looking through my main panel today I discovered that at least 1 circuit does not appear to be attacked to any breaker. If I turn off the main breaker of the house, the circuit does turn off. How can this be?

It's not necessarily the cause of your problem, but I saw a situation just like it once:

Plug a light into the socket and see that it is "on".
One by one, turn off and on each breaker in the panel.
Go through the entire set of breakers, and the light never goes off.

Eventually discovered cause:  one circuit had been wired in a loop, with a separate breaker at each end (fortunately on the same side of the line).  Cutting off power at either end had no effect on the light; both breakers had to be turned off to shut off the power to the circuit.  (This also meant that each outlet on the circuit was providing twice the normally allowed current.)

If this is what you have, try this to find the two breakers:

Plug in the light.
One by one, turn off (but not back on) each breaker in the panel.
If the light never goes off, this isn't your problem.
When the light goes off, mark that breaker as special.
One by one, turn on the breakers that you had turned off.
When the light appears again, mark that breaker as special.

Turn everything back on again, and confirm that the light goes off only when both of the marked breakers are off.

If you are sure that this really is the cause of your problem, arbitrarily choose somewhere in the circuit that has two adjacent outlets (both should behave the same way with respect to the two breakers).

Both outlets should have a pair of wires coming in and a pair of wires going out.  Determine which pair of wires goes between the two outlets, and disconnect it at each end.

Verify that one outlet is now controlled by one breaker, and the other by the other.

Make sure that when both breakers are on, no other outlet or light is without power.

Verify that the disconnected wire has no power when all the breakers are on (I'm assuming you know how to work safely with electricity and won't be testing it with your tongue.)

If you can, remove the redundant wire.  More likely though, you will have to cut it short, and/or put marrette caps on the end of each wire.

Alternatively, rather than breaking the loop back into two separate circuits, you could disconnect the line from one of the circuit breakers, and remove or cap that line (attach a note to it saying it is the end of whichever the other breaker is).


What could be causing the washing machine waste pipe to overflow? I'm the opposite of knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing however I have done a fair amount of searching through forums to find an answer to my problem and unfortunately still have questions.

To make it easier, I have taken a picture of the pipes as well as the actual waste hose behind my machine.

The hose from the machine sits in what I believe is called the standpipe on the left and goes approximately half a foot down.

I have taken apart the p bend (or u bend - still don't know the difference) and confirmed that there is no blockage.

I have run a snake down and around all the pipes with no issues and also used some soda crystals just incase but water flows through the pipes easily.

What I believe is the issue is that the output from the machine is producing water faster than it can travel through the pipes which are 40mm in diameter.

I believe that if I removed the p bend and just replaced it with a 90° corner, it would work fine but obviously it's there for a reason and particularly with the pipes only a 6 feet from the drain, I'm very reluctant to do that.

One more thing to point out is that on the right hand side, there is a pipe which I have capped off. I was wondering if that trapped air could be preventing the water flowing down as quickly and if I need to find some kind of air valve which may allow air out?

As it stands, I have just put the waste hose into the sink next to the machine and that has let me at least use it for now.

The first thing to do, is to figure out how this drain is vented. If you've got a big slug of water from the washer moving through the pipe, you've got to equalize the pressure in front of and behind the water. So you'll want to make sure the drain is properly vented.

Next, I'd probably remove all that extra plumbing.  With three 90° bends like that, you're making it more difficult for the water to move through the pipes.

Cut out the extra plumbing, and connect the trap assembly directly to the trap arm. Cut the plumbing at the orange line in the image below, then connect the trap and standpipe to the newly cut pipe. This eliminates all the extra bends, and should allow the water to drain better.

I'd also install a shallower P-trap. The shallower trap will hold less water, and allow better flow. As it's currently plumbed, you've got probably about 4-5" of water sitting in the trap.

Lastly, you may be able to make the standpipe longer. Check your local codes for the maximum length, as some say maximum 30", while others allow up to 42" pipes. (the standpipe is the vertical pipe coming up out of the trap). A longer standpipe obviously holds more water before overflowing, so it can provide a bit of extra time for the water to drain.


Is there any problem using brass screws to fit zinc hinges? I have a set of brass screws that fit the zinc hinges and in the interests of not wasting money and resources, I thought I could just use them together.

I realise that they may look a bit odd, but they won't be on show and may yet be painted.  I was just concerned that they may be weak or not work well together.

If it gets wet at all, you will run into problems with galvanic corrosion that will eat away at the hinges.  Your best bet is to use materials of similar anodic index (near the bottom of this page on galvanic corrosion).  If you absolutely must pair brass and zinc, either ensure that the connection between the two will never get wet (using grease or some sort of coating) or that the two metals never actually come into contact with one another (using, say, a nonmetallic washer).


Cleaning up home network wiring closet What. Do. I. Do. With. This.

All of my network, cable, and phone wires run to this white box.
I don't know what this box is called.
There's a couple of power outlets at the bottom, within the box. The black block thing is used for phone, and has some kind of what I think is a 1-N cable expander (I assume to take in coming cable and route it to a bunch of rooms) bolted to it.
There's a cable modem and wifi router in here, one is just sitting on the bottom. It's just a free standing black box. The other is essentially dangling from a screw shoved in to one of the white box holes.
I have a power strip hanging outside the bottom, since if the internet goes whacky, it's easier to just click the power strip than to unplug bricks or barrel plugs. There's also a small satellite TV thing hanging here somewhere.
This is certainly something specifically designed to wrangle this mess, I just don't know how to approach it. My fantasy is to turn this in to a something I could route with patch cables. But, I don't know what to look for to plug in to this thing.
Is that an unreasonable expectation? Are there things that I can use to perhaps mount these small boxes, and the power strip? Add network panels (I'm not a network person, so the vocabulary eludes me) for the phone and network? Can I do the same for the BNC cable connections?
Or should I just strive to shove all of this in to the box, and hope to never have to open it again.
I just don't know what this stuff is called, what to look for, etc. When I see folks talking about these kinds of things (I think), they're mounting computer racks for servers and routers and what not. Far too big and too deep for what this is.
Amusingly, the person who actually wired this in my home stopped doing that work and started driving a dump truck (for his family business) delivering gravel for landscaping, and he happened to deliver some for me. We talked, but he wasn't helpful in his advice as to what I should do.
So, I'm looking for direction and suggestions on what I can do to neaten this mess up beyond color matching the velcro wraps. If I were to hire a professional for this, what kind of person would I search for?

It's called a structured media enclosure and it does actually look decent. Granted, it's only half-assembled -- the second half of the project is the part that costs $$. If you wanted to hire a pro you'd be looking for an audio-video integrator - somebody that does home theaters and home automation systems. A contractor who does network cabling in commercial offices could do it well too. Either way, though, these pros usually work on systems far bigger and more expensive than what you have here.
The UTP network/phone cable are easy to deal with. They're most likely to be CAT5e or CAT6; check the jacket of the cables for marks that indicate the type. Every manufacturer of enclosures also offers a line of patch panels designed to fit. You can, of course, choose some other patch panel that suits you and devise your own mounting scheme. The blue and white cables down the right side look like they're all UTP and could be terminated to patch panels like these. You could then use short patch cables from the panel to your WiFi router or Ethernet switch. Following is an example of one made by Leviton with photo credit to BIoT Canada. Making one look like this is definitely art and it's not inexpensive.

The coax cables are a little more difficult. There are patch panels available for these too, but coax patch cables are annoying and coax cables have to be interconnected with a gadget called a splitter.
If you aren't interested in the nuance of splitting coax signals skip this paragraph.. A splitter literally divides the incoming electrical energy among its output ports. A 1-to-4 splitter sends one quarter of the energy to each of the outputs; a 1-to-8 splitter sends one eighth to each output. Depending on the signal source (the signal's strength, actually -- whether it comes from cable TV service versus over-the-air broadcast antenna, for example) it becomes increasingly necessary to also add an amplifier ("signal booster") with higher-count splits. Also, because of electrical signal quality issues, it can be important to use a "terminator" cap on unused ports. This applies whether the port at the splitter is unused, or a cable is attached but doesn't have any equipment (TV or tuner box) actually connected to it.
If a splitter or amplifier is used and the coax is also involved in a broadband Internet service then it's important to choose devices that are designed for bidirectional use so the messages from the cable modem can get back out to the cable provider.
So, for the coax, I vote to put F connectors on the ends of the cables actually in use and connect those directly to a splitter that has just enough ports. Leave the rest of the coax cables bundled neatly, maybe terminate them all just for possible future convenience, but don't bother with a patch panel or fully connecting every one of the cables to a splitter.


How to mount a floating shelf on ridged ceramic tile My bathroom is tiled with an extremely ridged ceramic tile and I would like to mount a floating shelf on the wall.

Since the tile is ridged, the tiler is reluctant to drill holes in it for fear of tile breakage.
Do diamond drill bits work on ridged tiles?
Are there any other recommendations on how to mount such shelves (glue, plaster, etc.) onto ridged tile? The shelves are simple planks made of laminated wood, and when loaded will weigh about 4-5 lbs.
Thanks!

Since floating shelves apply a lot of torque to their mounts, I don't recommend adhesives. That's a recipe for a noisy disaster.

You can drill tile like that with a few precautions.

It can be very difficult to accurately start a hole. A small chip in the glaze made with a nail set and light taps can help. Otherwise, brace the drill well against the wall to keep it stationary.
Don't use the hammer setting. Use a grinding bit (diamond or tungsten) at fairly high speed and with light force.
Keep the bit aligned during the entire process. Allowing the drill to cant to the side will cause binding, which could damage the tile.

A stable, light touch should get you good results. If you don't have any spare tile in case the unthinkable occurs, reconsider the value of your fancy shelves. Maybe use a standing unit instead.


Should my unfinished siding be left uncovered when it rains? My contractors are re doing my sidings now. The house is left bare as you can see in the pictures is it okay that it's left this way when it's raining or do they have to cover it with tarp or something.

I think you're asking about sheathing, not siding. What we see above the brick are oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing panels. They should not be left exposed to the weather for more than a few weeks (or a few rain events, whichever comes first).

Ideally, housewrap and other components of the drain plane are installed immediately to protect the sheathing and other weather-sensitive parts of your home.


How can I use a multimeter to replace electrical testers, etc.? I have a multimeter and I don't want to spend more money on other electrical test devices.

How do I use a multimeter to perform the same functions as a:

circuit tester
GFCI outlet tester

I have a multimeter and I don't want to spend more money on other electrical test devices.

While, I understand your thought process, keep in mind that multi-meters, when combined with house wiring are not nearly as safe to operate as devices designed to perform these tests.  You are paying not only for utility but also for safety (which is far more important).

  circuit tester

I guess you mean outlet tester specifically.

Set your Cat II or better rated multimeter to a high voltage AC range. If your meter has a Low-Z range intended for 120 V AC (or 230 V AC), use that.
Double check that you have the leads in the right sockets for voltage testing.
Measure the voltage

between ground and neutral
between ground and hot
between hot and neutral

Check that the results match what you expect (e.g. 0, 120, 120).

  GFCI outlet tester

You can't test this with just a multimeter. You need a load that will pass about 8mA at 120V (or >30mA at 230V for UK/EU readers) between hot and ground.

(Note, according to NEMA, a GFCI "test" button uses a 15kΩ resistor with a suitable voltage rating. This means the test current is nominally 8mA at 120V (or up to 9mA for a 10% tolerance resistor)

A typical multimeter has a 10MΩ impedance on its AC voltage ranges, so it passes less than 12 micro-Amps at 120V - too small to trip a GFCI. A "low-Z" range might use a 3kΩ impedance and pass 40mA at 120V - this is more than is needed for safely testing a GFCI. Note that around 10mA is the let-go threshold for humans and so currents above that can be problematic.

Fabricating something that is safe for use with 120 V AC is going be difficult to do for less than the cost of a purpose built tool.


air leaking around windows I've seen in several places recommendations about caulking around a window frame to reduce heat loss.  I have cracked caulk around one window where you can feel air flowing in.  I was going to fix it, but does the airflow mean there's actually a crack in the caulking on the outside?  If I just re-caulk the inside, won't that air just end up in the walls or should the framing around the window be sealed off from the walls?  Is it okay to re-apply the interior caulk and then look at fixing the exterior caulking when it's warmer outside (currently way too cold to apply caulking outside).

Here's a picture of the worse spot (other parts are flush with the frame) after removing the caulking:

Caulk is usually applied only outside. That's where airflow should be addressed. Caulk on the interior makes for an unappealing appearance and, as you suggested, treats a symptom and not the primary issue.

I would apply interior window film, if you think the remaining winter season warrants it, and deal with your window installation issues in warmer weather. Windows installed in the last few years should've been foamed in, which creates a fantastic seal to the framing. they should also be caulked to the housewrap or wall sheathing as the situation allows. No air management should need to happen on the inner face. Window trim is not intended to be a component of the building envelope.


Stair case shoerail minimum width and extending width of closed stringer Hopefully a quick question for someone.  I have a closed stair stringer that used to be embedded in a non load bearing wall that has been removed leaving only the ~1 1/2" stair stringer remaining.  I want to put a handrail on it with balusters etc.  Is there a minimum width for the shoe rail?  In order to extend the stringer width to accommodate the shoe rail I was going to attach a long piece of  2x10 to the side of the stringer to give the extra width. Is there a better way to do this?

Typical Balusters will tend to make the stringer rotate when a force is applied perpendicular to the stairway. (Code requires a resistance of 200 lbs. applied at the top of the guardrail and perpendicular to the guardrail.) I’d try installing several newel posts along the stairway. They could extend from the floor up to the guardrail height so they won’t rotate.


Clear Marine Vinyl Sheet On Bathtub Surround To Temporarily Waterproof Walls? I have a bathroom upstairs with a bathtub/shower, and a bathroom downstairs directly below. I keep getting a significant leak from the upstairs bathroom down through the ceiling into the bathroom below. I finally determined for certain that the leak happens when the shower water is spraying onto the wall, it goes through the tile grout.
I know there's mold and water damage behind the walls and I plan on redoing the entire bathroom next year, but as a temporary solution for the leak, I'm considering gluing clear marine vinyl sheets (I'm talking about this kind of thing)  directly onto the tiles, using a clear construction adhesive (like Gorilla Glue that comes in a caulk tube).
I'd glue one sheet on each wall and use caulk to seal the sides. To me this sounds foolproof at least as a temporary way to prevent water from getting through the walls. Are there any issues with this I'm not considering?

That sounds like a longer lasting solution than duck-taping a couple of shower curtains up. Remember that a shower curtain protects the floor outside the tub from getting wet, so I'd think this should work just fine as a one-year-or-so "temporary" solution.

Make sure that you overlap the sheeting onto the surface of the tub. It could be that there is an unsealed grout joint way down low and that the grout is wicking the water up and over the lip of the tub that's sitting behind the tile.
Make sure the adhesive you choose is suitable for the sheeting you're using. I'm not certain whether or not your particular choice is good or not, just giving you a reminder.

I put "temporary" in quotes because sometimes these things drag on... ;)


Can I upsize my air conditioner if I have a two-speed compressor? The upper floor of my house has a split A/C, three-ton.  When the temperature gets up above about 95 Fahrenheit, the unit can't keep the upstairs cool.  That means that for a few weeks a year, my kids' bedrooms are still almost 80 when it's time to put them to bed.  That's not really acceptable.  Multiple technicians say there's nothing wrong with the unit.  I understand that A/C units are sized to keep you comfortable 99% of the year, so it looks like I'm just struggling with that 1%.

My attic has an approximate R value of 32.  Not super, but the calculators I've seen indicate that upgrading to 49 won't pay for itself in less than twenty years.  So I don't think insulation is the main issue.

The house is about eleven years old, so I expect the compressor to require replacement any minute.  I could upgrade to a larger unit, but then you run into short-cycling issues.

But what if I got a larger unit with a two-stage compressor?  For example, I could get a Goodman GSX14 three-ton as a direct replacement, but I could also get a GSXC16 four-ton.  Would the ability to run at half-speed compensate for the short-cycling concerns, and allow me to have a higher peak rating without the downside of lost dehumidification?

An alternate solution would be to get some portable 12,000 BTU units and just use those during the peak temperatures.  But I'm not sure if that might have other side-effects.

During the AC season close off outlets that go to the cooler area of your house, and be sure the other outlets are wide open. Put in a brand new, low restriction furnace air filter. Keep curtains closed all day on the sunny side of the house.
After these steps you may use a portable on the lower floor if you need it. As long as the portable unit has 2 air ducts going outside, it will have no adverse effect on your central system.
Also, be sure to have the central AC set so that it comes on well before noon. If you wait until it feels like it's getting too warm ... then the system will never catch up.


Garage door doesn’t close all the way Hi, my garage door doesn’t seem to close all the way by a 2-4 inches.  I just had the garage remodeled and wanted to see how I can fix this before dirt starts going inside the garage.  I thought I’ll ask here if anyone had this issue and how would you recommend to fix it before I call a garage repairman.

Thanks

Thank you all. The remodel work did not include touching the garage door, this must have been done by the previous owner. I’ll work on adjusting the latches later this week as it’s clearly higher than it should be. However, even pushing the door down with my leg as if the latches were higher, I have noticed that the right side still remains open and doesn’t close all the way. It appears the blocker/item on the top right is preventing the door from closing all the way. Does anyone have any idea on what purpose that metal thing serves and if I can unscrew it and take it out.

This would be better as a comment, but I don't have enough rep to do that. When your garage was remodeled, was the garage door taken off? Looking at the latches that @beswald mentioned, it looks like the door was removed in segments, and the segment with the latches was reinstalled upside down. The latches appear to be below center in that section.

You can consider moving the latches higher in that segment or taking that segment out and flipping it over.

Remember that the tension in the springs can be dangerous. If you are wanting to try to flip the one segment over, I'd suggest using vise grips or locking pliers above the bottom wheel to keep the lower section secured. You also need to keep the upper sections from zipping up the track as well, so as I think more about this, I'd call a garage door repairman.

Edit I didn't notice the block on the upper right in the first picture. My guess is that is a "step" that should be on the inside of the bottom section of the door, normally installed so you could step on it to close the door tightly while you lock it. It looks more and more like the door was reinstalled with the sections moved around. I'd hire a garage door company to come out and reinstall it correctly simply because I don't like to mess with the tension springs.


What is the cabinet covering a range hood called? What's the name of this curved cabinet overhang / mask? I can't figure it out.
I assume it's to hide the unfinished side of the upper wall cabinet, and I need one, but I don't know what to look for.

This is an arched valance with a mantel hood above it. For example:

http://www.castlewood.com/avmantelhood.html


How best to remove and replace this gasket on swivelling spigot has worn out and is leaking.

How to install the new one without damaging it?

If using a tool at all, a plastic credit/id/rewards card (use the corner) is the best bet. Tools (such as steel ones) that are harder than the (probably brass) o-ring groove/seat can scratch that surface and cause a leak.

In most cases you should not need a tool at all. Clean the outer surface of the o-ring with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any grease on the surface, so you can get a grip on it. Pinch it between your thumb and a finger (on opposite sides of the central metal part), and then move your pinching thumb and finger to one side - this should raise a loop of o-ring out of the groove on that side, which you can grab. You are stretching the other side and pushing up slack material on the side you are moving towards.

The latter method has the advantage of not damaging the o-ring, either - which does not matter when you are replacing it, but does matter when you would prefer to re-use it.

Clean the whole metal thing above and including the groove very carefully, then lightly lubricate the new o-ring and check that there is no dirt/sand/hair adhering to it, and roll/slide it down into the groove. Clean the inside of the part that goes over this as well, before reinstalling it.


How should I repair drywall seams that have developed cracks? The second floor of the house was built 17 years ago. Every seam has fiber tape, and every seam on the ceiling and wall cracked. It's only the second floor that's cracking.

Can I just Spackle the lines?

Depends on why its cracking..
Were trusses used for the roof construction?  Many problems are caused by wind and truss "uplift" The solution for this problem is a special, movable joint.  No nails or screws are used within 18" of interior wall's top plates.  Special clips are used that allow movement.
Building Sciences Corporation report on truss uplift
The expense and hassle of retrofitting "floating corners" might mean trying a number of fixes.
First might be be using a lightweight elastomeric patch, such as

Product Description:
DAP® ElastoPatch® Flexible Patching Compound is a high performance, elastomeric spackling compound
that eliminates recurring cracks by providing a permanently flexible fill. Will not crack, crumble or fall out
as the joint expands and contracts over time.  Superior paintability – won’t flash paint. Available in smooth grade and textured grade to provide the perfect finish.  Interior and exterior use.
Suggested Uses: Ideal for filling and repairing recurring cracks and holes in:
• Stucco
• Brick
Surface Preparation & Application:
• Clean surface removing all loose particles, plaster, wax, dust, dirt, peeling paint, old caulk, grease and oil.
• Using a caulking gun, brush, putty knife or trowel, fill crack with patching compound.  Tool patched surface to desired finish before product dries.

Product is not sandable.

• For some repairs, more than one application may be required. Use product to bridge gaps up to 1/4” wide and 1/2” deep.  Fill small cracks and surface defects to a minimum depth of 1/8”.
• Can be painted after 30 minutes with latex-based paints. Allow to dry at least 2 hours (longer in cool or humid conditions) before painting with oil-based paints.
• Wash tools immediately after use with water.


How to convert Light Switch from 2 red, 2 black, and ground to 1 traveler, 1 neutral, and a ground? I am swapping the light switches in my house and have come across some issues with some of the 3-way switches. The switches have a ground, two red cables, and two black cables and the new switch I'm putting in has ground, one traveler cable, and a neutral that I need to twist into the box myself.
Here is an image of the back of the old switch:

In order to make this compatible, I believe I would need to twist together the two black cables (as I have been doing for the other add-on boxes) but that still leaves me with two red traveler cables for one hole on the back of the dimmer as pictured below.
I have been using their normal steps listed in their documentation (https://byjasco.com/media/manuals/46199-QSG-v1.pdf) but want to make sure I get it correct.

Is the best method to combine the traveler wires in a cap and lead a third one out?
Is it safe to connect both red travelers in the two openings at one connector (Pretty sure I've read that this is not the way to go)?
Is the solution something completely different?

YOU decided which one was "traveler".
What you are looking at is a 4-way switch.  It goes in the middle of a 3-way switch string to allow 3 or more control points.  Like this.

Note that this is but one example. There are many different ways to physically route cables in a 3/4 way switch complex.
Now, when you install smart switches in any 3/4 way system, the whole system must be engineered to work together with matching switches.  Generally, the systems for sale in the US make best use of the existing wires, but they use them in quite a different way.
Since every 3-way switch layout is different, you really need to study how the existing 3-way complex is wired, and then adapt wires as best you can.  As such, there is no stock answer for "which colors where".   We would need to see, at least, pictures of each switch box, and possibly the lamp box as well.
Even more than that, you are re-tasking the 2 old traveler wires to new purposes.  Since you are the one doing that, only you know which color you have chosen to assign to which purpose.
In other words, we can't tell you unless we know what else you did.  Honestly, it sounds like you installed the "master" at one of the 3-way points, and happened to stumble upon a wire combination that worked based on how the other 3-way switches were set at the time. You can't do that with electrical wiring.  You can't "try stuff and stop when you find one that works", because there are lots of combinations that will work and will kill you.
We see many smart switch products where correct installation is simply impossible in many 3-way routings.  However GE is a shrewd company; this looks like a "remote" switch that takes only 2 wires: a comm wire and neutral, so it should be possible to adapt to any 3/4 way complex.


How do you count the number of wires in a fill capacity of an outlet box? Please could you explain the number of wires, connectors that go into a 4x4x1 1/2 square box that is only 14 gauge. I have only a switch (two wires) connected to that box as well.  Do you count the connectors as one besides the three wires or so that might be connected to it?  Also the switch itself? Or do you just count only the number of wires? Thank you

I use a shorthand version of the full NEC treatment. Start with this table that says how much space for each wire size.

Pick  your largest ground wire and look it up and add it once. All other grounds are free.  If you have four #14 grounds and one #8, that's 3.00 cubic inches.
Any cable clamps? Pick the largest wire clamped, ditto. Covers all clamps.
Any support brackets? Pick the largest wire associated with the supported item, look it up. it counts once.
Pigtails are free.
Other than that, every wire passing through entering and terminating in the box in a cap, splice or device, costs what the table says.  e.g. if you have two 12/2 cables into the box, grounds are already accounted for leaving 4 wires, x 2.25 cubic inches = 9.00.
2 wires nutted together don't count as one, sorry.
Any wires over 12" length, look it up, that per extra foot.
For each yoke, what's the largest wire going onto that yoke?  Look it up and count it twice.  So if you have a 10AWG wire in there for some reason, that yoke counts as 5.00 c.i.

There should be a stamping on the box saying how many cubic inches it is.  Common box sizes have official sizes, and the sales literature for those boxes will also say.

What's a yoke? A switch, receptacle, GFCI etc.  Yes I know they are dramatically different sizes. I don't write the rules.

So as an exercise.  Box in EMT conduit.  You have four #6 THHN wires (hot hot neutral ground) passing through the back of the box on their way to a subpanel.  You also have #14 hot and neutral THHN coming in, going to a receptacle at this box.  Then 14/2 Romex going out to some other location, with a clamp, and its ground goes to the steel box case.   You have:

1 ground, largest is #6 so 5.00.
3 #6 wires, so 15.00. Its ground was counted earlier.
4 wires #14 (the Romex ground was counted earlier) so 8.00.
1 receptacle, largest wire involved is #14, x2 so 4.00.
1 cable clamp, largest clamped is #14 so 2.00.

You need 34 cubic inches total.  It's a 120mm x 1.5" box, that's 29 cubic inches, so you get a raised receptacle cover that gives 5 more cubes and you're done.


Installing a ceiling light fixture in USA that was purchased in HongKong? I purchased a light fixture on a recent trip to HongKong and someone told me that it would not be compatible with USA. Is this true and if so is there an easy way to convert it so I will be able to safely use it here?

If it's a simple light fixture that does nothing more than hold bulbs, there's only a couple things to check.
Socket base
The first thing to check is the socket base(s), size and shape. I'm not sure what's common in Hong Kong, but you'll want to make sure bulbs from the US can fit in the sockets.
Wire size
The next thing to check is the size of the wires in the fixture. You'll want to make sure they're large enough to handle the load of the lamp(s). It will completely depend on how the fixture is wired, but 18 AWG - 14 AWG is common in US fixtures.


Why should you add dry mix to water and not the other way round During renovation I have used all kinds of dry compounds, be it mortar, conrete mix, tile glue, grout, plastering mud, ... On every one of them the instructions say to add the dry mix to water and mix thoroughly.
Is there any reason behind this order?

Yes, there is a very good reason.  If you add water to dry mix in the bottom of the container, you get a nearly impossible to incorporate glob of the dry mix at the bottom.
On the other hand, if you add it from the top, it's much easier to get it all incorporated.
This works with everything from pancake mix to drywall compound.
Try it each way and you'll see for yourself.


Proper breaker for my table saw Can I run this motor on a 30 amp breaker? The saw Is "prewired 230v" but the wire from the motor to the plug is only 14 guage. Is that a hazard?

I am going to start by answering the easy questions first.

The #14 installed by the motor manufacturer is alright. Since manufactures are not regulated by the NEC but by an entirely different set of rules and regulations. JET is a pretty common manufacturer and I feel fairly safe that they are doing the right thing.

NEC Article 430.7(A)(13) states the if a motor is thermally protected is will be labeled as such or have the designation TP on the nameplate. So according to your picture it is not protected. Also your schematic does not show overloads.

Now the circuit design. To start the nameplate shows and amperage of 14.5 but it also shows a KW of 2.2 which translates to 9.5 amps and it doesn't show an efficiency rating. So to be on the safe side I would use the rating found in NEC Table 430.248 which states to use 17 amps as a full load current. By code we add 25% for startup (NEC Article 430.24) so that makes it 21.25 amps. So we can size the conductors for a 30A circuit which would be a #10 conductors.

The overcurrent protection which I assume is a molded case circuit breaker is calculated a little different. the "K" designation on the nameplate is a Locked-rotor Code Letter and it gives us a rating from NEC Table 430.7(B) which basically states that if your saw blade locks up it can surge to around 117 amps. Keep in mind there is a duration on this limit. It might be so quick, 1/120th of a second, you won't be able to detect it. This could happen when your blade hits a knot and surges to cut it. So we don't want that to trip the breaker. NEC Article 430.52 and Table 430.52 allow us to increase the size of the overcurrent protection to compensate for this surging. You have to match your delay trip with your surge in order to prevent nuisance tripping.

Most electricians on site are not going to go through the calcs I just gave you. What they are going to do is to install a 30A circuit and protect it with a 40A breaker and call it good unless you start having a problem.

In conclusion, installing a #10 conductor and 30A breaker would be OK. If you started tripping the breaker while cutting certain lumber you are allowed to increase the breaker at least one size maybe two but I wouldn't go any further without consulting a professional in your area.

It's important to remember that these rules apply only to motor circuits not mixed circuits. For a DIY only install one piece of equipment on one circuit to stay safe. Also the overcurrent protection is designed to protect the motor circuit, not the piece of equipment itself. You might want to install some sort of disconnect or switch with thermal overloads by the saw itself.

Hope this answers some question you might have and stay safe.


Flushed water heater yesterday got a lot of sputtering right after that and today hot water is not flowing with the same pressure as before Yesterday I decided to flush my water heater and I did the following:

turn to pilot
turn off cold water supply to water heater
open valve and drain hot water. I noticed it was still flushing for a while and I was expecting the water to be less and less every time so what I did is to turn off the water coming to the house and kept draining, and then now I noticed that the water flow was every time less and less, until it was almost no flow at all. I then closed the water heater valve.
I lower the temperature of the water heater since it's already hot outside, and I was thinking in moving it back up when is winter again.
I opened the water valve for the house, opened cold water valve to the water heater.

When I went upstairs and I opened my faucet with hot water I first noticed it was sputtering and brown water coming out and then the presure on the water wasn't the same as before.  The next day the sputtering stopped but the pressure in some of the faucets for hot water is still not the same. At the beginning when I open the faucet it had good pressure and after 2 seconds the pressure decreased and it has been like that since then.

Note: I just checked and there are at least 5 faucets that have the same problem, not just one like I originally thought.

What could be wrong with my system?

Thank you

You shouldn't have shut off the cold water feed. that helps nothing and may reduce the flushing efficiency.  But you did, so most likely you ended up draining all hot water piping in the rest of the house.  You will have to run every hot water faucet/valve individually until you've cleared all the air out of every pipe.

It wouldn't hurt to re-flush, but this time leave the cold inlet open. This might push some bubbles out of the tank itself.

BTW, there's no reason to turn off the pilot either, so long as you keep the feed open so the tank itself is always full.


Mounting 65” tv on panel construction wall with metal studs 24” on center The wall is Sheetrock over styrofoam panel no clearance under Sheetrock. Is there a way to mount this without opening the wall. Reading has indicated steel studs do not hold screws well

Depending on your TV mount style, I would simply drill extra holes in it and run four to six sheet metal screws through into the studs. 8 to 12 sheet metal screws will easily carry that television. This assumes that it's tight to the wall and not an articulating arm style mount

Size the holes in the mount so that the screws slip through freely, and be sure not to overtighten so you don't strip the threads in the studs. Just snug them up.


My toilet won't flush, and just adds water my toilet won't flush. All it does is fill up with water and sit there. It's not even draining the water. I have let it sit all night and still is the same water level in the morning. I've been plunging it and nothing happens. What can I do?

Had a similar problem last year. Called a plumber and he found that the drainpipe was clogged by roots close to the street which prevented the water from escaping. If your toilet has an inspection outlet you could check to see if this is also full to find out where the blockage is. Next step would be to call your Water supplier to find out if the blockage is on their land (street-side). If they tell you the blockage is on your property, then you would call a plumber as they have the equipment to find and clear the blockage.


Why do old toggle switch leads read 40VAC? Tonight I removed an old switch from one of the walls in my living room. We recently bought our house, and there were two holes in the wall where the old thermostat and humidity controller were.  I patched those up and then took care of this old switch that was just as ugly as the two holes in the wall. The switch was a dual button on/off toggle switch from what it looks like.  I removed it to install a new flip switch and put a nice face plate on it.  However I noticed that after testing the copper leads with my voltometer, I find that the circuit reads 40VAC.  I have no idea what this outlet does at this point in time since the old switch was broken.

Will my 15A-120VAC switch I bought at Home Depot tonight work well as a replacement?

Yes, a new 15A-120VAC switch will certainly work in a lower-voltage application.

Regarding the voltage across the switch leads, 40VAC is a very mysterious reading. Could the current actually be DC (for a thermostat perhaps)? I'd want to figure out what the switch was supposed to control:

Visually trace the wiring from the switch, if possible
Are the wires normal 12 or 14-gauge thickness? If so, it's probably supposed to be a light or outlet switch.
Can you isolate the circuit by process of elimination? Are there other lights or receptacles on the same circuit that can give you a clue about what this switch is for?
How many wires are available in the switch box? If there are only two, then check the voltage of each against ground. One should be 120VAC (supply) and one unenergized.
You can check your hypothesis that the old switch was broken by testing for continuity in the switch's ON state.

It's entirely possible that this switch is wired to a circuit that is no longer useful, or perhaps that the wires aren't actually connected to anything and what your meter is picking up is an induced electrical current due to current in adjacent cables. Without determining what this switch was originally intended for, it will be hard to explain the voltage reading, and hard to know whether the old switch was broken, or whether the wiring was disconnected.


How to remove this brass collar from the pipe The bathtub faucet is leaking at the diverter so the water can't be directed to the shower head. I bought a universal replacement (different brand) and attempted to remove the old one (it was a Delta MAINTSP831CH). After finally removing the small hex screw at the underside of the brass collar, I can't get the collar off the pipe. I applied some lubricant and tried pulling it off, but it wouldn't come off. I then pushed the collar further in to see if there's anything blocking it, only to discover a notch on the pipe which is probably preventing the collar from coming off.

I've replace a few faucets/spout before and even after reviewing the instructions for Delta faucet and the universal one, none mentioned the case with this notched pipe; All the pipes I've encountered are straight and smooth. Has anyone seen this before? Could anyone offer insight into why this pipe is notched and how to get the brass collar off?

Heat the brass collar with a propane torch. Insulate the tile and block the wall opening with heat proof material. Then twist (gently) while hot.


Why would a gas fireplace have tiny flame and fog up the glass? I just bought a condo and I hate the gas fireplace!  I can barely see the flame or the wood against the black background. The flame is tiny, only 3 to 4" and doesn't extend above the wood.

Another concern is when the glass is over the opening, it starts fogging up right away.  Does this mean that it is not properly vented?  I specifically looked for a home with a fireplace and have owned several gas units before but nothing as pitiful as this!  Any suggestions?

I'd suggest having a fireplace person come on out and take a look. Sounds like you're getting a bad burn with excess moisture. It could be due to a variety of things:

air intake (or exhaust) is plugged. Birds in the chimney?
problem with fuel intake (leak? Kink in the line?)
dirty burner element


How can I calculate the effects a floor coverings thermal conductivity will have on my heating costs? We are choosing between laminate and plastic flooring over water based underfloor heating (heat pipes laid in the screed floor over thick concrete).
Laminate floorings have a thermal resistance of app. 0.06 m^2K/W, plastics (for example Classen NEO) have halve of that or less.

While plastics are twice as good in terms of thermal conductivity, they are also more expensive, may be harder to install (linoleum has very low thermal resistance but needs to be glued to the underfloor) and there are environmental and air quality concerns for the cheaper options (vinyl).

How do I find out what the consequences of higher thermal resistance (lower thermal conductivity) really are, in terms of how much more m^3 in gas I will need each year? Are there any calculation tools, lookup tables or rules of thumb to help me with this?
Maybe experiments with different floor types?

I could calculate the difference straight from the theory, but I don't even know what the average floor heat is from underfloor heating (from this, I imagine, I could calculate back the energy difference for different floor types, and then I would need specs of the heater to calculate how much more gas this would cost).

Respectfully, you are trying to compare apples to autos here.

Burning gas makes things hot.

Thermal conductivity is just how fast it takes the heat to get to you.

I suggest you go try to calculate it from theory, physics is fun, calculus is interesting, the numbers will not lie to you, and you will see the logical error immediately.

The heat has to go somewhere. A metal floor would get hot fast, and cold fast.

A concrete floor will get hot slowly, and get cold slowly.

If your floor has a very low thermal resistance - you would be able to feel the path of the heating pipes/elements. It would have hot spots and cold spots.

With a high thermal resistance the entire floor will feel the same temperature.


How can I repair heavy hardwood scraping? We're moving out of our apartment and we need to repair the hardwood floor of our apartment for the next tenant that lives here.

Apologies as I cannot take a picture of the floor at the moment. I will try to describe the damage as best I can.

It is an oaken hardwood floor.  For a year and a half I have had a single coffee table with wooden legs placed between our two workstations in the center of the floor.  Every day or so, I or my wife will push the coffee table away to give ourselves more room on our side, and inevitably scrape away at the wooden floor beneath. This has resulted in a spot of scraping about as large as my hand (maybe a little smaller).

I'm not sure if we should use wood putty to fill in the area affected, since it's pretty substantial scraping (our TV is on this coffee table, so the damage is a little enhanced), or if we should just use a bit of sandpaper and finish/varnish on the floor.

Without a picture it is a little hard to say.  Depending on the depth you may need to do one or both.

If the depth is shallow simply sand and refinish the spot (it will not look like new and particularly in certain light you will definitely always be able to see the spot).

If the scratches/gouges are deeper you will have to sand, fill, sand, then refinish and again, you will be able to tell its a patch job.  edit:  if the wood is stained you may also need to stain the spot prior to finishing as well.

Make sure you match the sheen on the finish.  (Satin/Semi-Gloss/Gloss)

And use furniture pads next time!!! :)


Where to split long walls I'm trying to build walls for my basement, and not surprisingly, many walls are longer than 8/10/12/16ft.  For many walls, I was thinking of putting up two 8' or 10' walls with the stud straddling both walls. I was planning on doing a single top plate and was looking at the code [see below], but have some questions:

1) If I have a single top plate, does it matter where the seam is? Is there any restrictions or preferences?

2) My joists are 24" oc, but I was planning on doing 16" oc walls.  Is that ok?  Exception #2 makes this a little fuzzy

3) For the long stretches I've seen the rectangular splice plates referenced in the table.  What do the plates look like for the corners and T-intersections?

R602.3.2 Top plate.
Wood stud walls shall be capped with a double top plate installed to provide
overlapping at corners and intersections with bearing partitions. End joints in
top plates shall be offset not less than 24 inches (610 mm). Joints in plates
need not occur over studs. Plates shall be not less than 2-inches (51 mm)
nominal thickness and have a width not less than the width of the studs.

Exception: A single top plate used as an alternative to a double top
plate shall comply with the following:

1. The single top plate shall be tied at corners, intersecting walls, and at
in-line splices in straight wall lines in accordance with Table R602.3.2.

2. The rafters or joists shall be centered over the studs with a tolerance of
not more than 1 inch (25 mm).

3. Omission of the top plate is permitted over headers where the headers are
adequately tied to adjacent wall sections in accordance with Table R602.3.2.

TABLE R602.3.2 SINGLE TOP-PLATE SPLICE CONNECTION DETAILS

        CONDITION

        TOP-PLATE SPLICE LOCATION

        Corners and intersecting walls

        Butt joints in straight walls

        Splice plate size

        Minimum nails
        each side of joint

        Splice plate size

        Minimum nails
        each side of joint

        Structures in SDC A-C;
        and in SDC
        D0, D1 and D2 with braced wall line

        spacing less than 25 feet
        3″
        × 6″  × 0.036″
        galvanized steel plate
        or equivalent

        (6) 8d box
        (21/2″  × 0.113″ ) nails
        3′
        × 12″  ×0.036″
        galvanized steel plate
        or equivalent

        (12) 8d box
        (21/2″  × 0.113″ ) nails

        Structures in SDC D0,
        D1 and D2, with
        braced wall line spacing greater than
        or equal to 25 feet
        3″
        × 8″  by 0.036″
        galvanized steel plate
        or equivalent

        (9) 8d box
        (21/2″  × 0.113″ ) nails
        3′
        × 16″  × 0.036″
        galvanized steel plate
        or equivalent

        (18) 8d box
        (21/2″  × 0.113″ ) nails

        For SI: 1 inch = 25.4 mm, 1 foot = 304.8 mm.

Basement framing is 100% cosmetic.  I am not sure if it is code yet because I would never worry about the code but all places that I have done basements require 16" or less.  And when I say I don't worry about it is because all basements we do are either 16 or 12 so I have never gone back to see if 24 or 18 is code.  If memory serves me 16 is needed for drywall but 24 for paneling.

Some inspectors make sure that there are two points engagement on both the bottom and top plates every span or 8 feet.  I have had maybe 2 inspectors out of 50 ever care.

In essence almost everything you are worrying about is for framing that is load bearing - for you this does not matter.

Some things you do need to worry about:

if you are doing a long wall most basement walls bulge.  Start at the bulge or give yourself adequate space.  You do not want any of the framing touching the wall.
bottom plates are PT
put some styrofoam under bottom plates
Lay down a chalk line on the floor for long walls.
When we are framing basements we build upright.  Mainly because the heights differ and I want my install snug.  We measure floor to joist on each side - one joist over.  Then minus three inches, make our two cut and slide those in snuggly.  Once we have the wall level and our boards are OC at 16 we now have a moveable wall piece that we can make slight adjustments to.  We then do the rest of the verticals OC and nail them in.  We have not attached the bottom or top plates.  We do this for the rest of the wall.  If we need to add some crossers to attach a header do our sections don't bow up then we do.  Once the wall is done then we double check the levelness and alignment.  We then nail the bottom plates in - 3 per section.  We check levelness and alignment again and then attach top plates.

Where to split long walls in basement?  Where ever you want.


What happens if I use vegetable oil instead of machine oil or grease? It's kind of tempting to use vegetable oil for lubricating door hinges and other similar basic mechanisms around the house - vegetable oil is readily available in almost any household. However I always hear it's a bad idea, but could never find any details of why exactly it is a bad idea.

What exactly happens if I use vegetable oil for basic mechanisms lubrication?

Oil of any kind is the wrong lube to use on hinges.  Oil, WD40, or any petro based product wets the hinge surfaces and will collect dust and dirt.  I always recommend dry silicone spray. Silicone works great, won't harm surrounding finishes etc.  Some folks like graphite, but I find it a bit messy to use.


Need help wiring switches with several wires Background: This started out as a simple addition of a recessed light in a hallway.  The beginning issue was that the wire to power it was live all the time.  So I took apart the switches in "Box 1" by my front door.  Having little electrical knowledge, I found myself quickly over my head which landed me here.

The Setup: I have Box 1 which contains 4 switches and 5 wires (each with a live and neutral).  I have Box 2 which contains one switch for my living room which works independently of the switches in Box 1.  Currently there is no power to the wire for the recessed light and none of the other switches work as they've been disassembled.  I'm having trouble figuring out how to get them back together and make everything work again.  That's where I'm hoping DIY can give me a hand and school me on DIY home electrical work.

The Goals

Have the recessed light be on it's own switch.
Have one switch for the porch light, garage light, and lamp post light.  There were 4 switches previously so I want to cut it down to two.

Current Knowledge

The Service Box wire will trip the breaker if I connect the live to the neutral.
The Garage wire will trip the breaker if I connect the live to the neutral.
The Lamp Post Light wire will turn on the light if I connect the live to the neutral.

Tools Available

Klein Tools MM100 Multimeter
Klein Tools Voltage Tester
Commercial Electric VAC/DC MS8900H Tester
Standard tools: wire strippers, needle nose pliers, etc.

First thing to confirm would be which direction the switches are being fed from. There are 2 ways that you can do this - feed from the switch:

Or feed from the fixture:

When feeding from a fixture, you'll notice that one of the white wires is actually being used as a black wire.  It is common practice for this to be "coded black", usually with a single wrap of black electrical tape, but not everyone does this.  By the description in the comments, it sounds like everything was being fed from the fixtures except for the porch light (although it seems odd to do a lamp post that way given the extra wire required, but I digress). My guess is that the box where the recessed light went was wired correctly, just using the bottom method from the 2 pictures above.

The second step is to confirm that the wire you have marked as "Service Box" goes to the distribution box. If it does, your previous wiring set up was probably like this (in which case there should have only been one wire nut in the box other than any used for grounding):

Until you do these two things, it would be premature to decide on how to combine switches or re-wire.  You could reverse the wiring for the garage or lamp post to combine switches, but you'd need to figure out what to do about the hot running into the fixture (capping it may not meet code in your area). What you would basically be doing is changing from fixture feeds to box feeds and figuring out what to do with all of the fixture hots.  Multimeter readings likely aren't going to be much help - pictures of all of the boxes at the fixtures would help more (or diagrams of each box with wire connections noted).

I'd start with confirming the wiring the diagram above, get the wiring back to how it was originally so everything works again, and then posting an update with the information above for advice on how to change how it is wired.

EDIT: Porch and lamp post can be combined like this:


What could cause this ceiling fan and light issue? I have a ceiling fan with a switch that has both a dimmer for the light in the fan and a speed adjuster for the fan itself.  Only the light dimmer side works and when I turn it on both the fan and the light turn on.  If i turn it off and then on again the fan reverses and the light and fan come on again. The light and the fan are both on high and will not adjust as well. The weird thing is when we moved in it worked fine and then it started doing this.  So I thought it may be the switch and bought a new one but it still does the same thing.  Any ideas?

It looks like the wiring is wrong. The fan and light are interconnected somehow and should be separate. As it was working, it's something you have altered or it occurred itself.

Separate all the wires. See which wires go the light. Connect a lampholder with a bulb to the incoming white wire and one of the other two not counting the green/bare wire

Try your dimmer, and see if it dims the test bulb. If so that non white wire is the one that controls the light. If not change to the other non white wire. That should determine the right wire for the light.

The one that did not control the light is the one that does control the fan, that when connected, should work from the speed controller. The fan and light should now both work but independently.


Can I split off a 20a with a conduit body? So I am coming out of my subpanel with 1/2 in metal conduit and using metal handy boxes with NEMA 5-20 for all the receptacles on my two indoor branch circuits. One is dedicated for a window unit AC. All wires are 12AWG stranded copper THHN/THWN.

The ac receptacle is protected with AFCI and GFCI because part of the unit is outdoors. The other receptacles are protected with AFCI only.

So six conductors in all come out. At a t-type conduit body we split off L1/N/G and go up to a handy box near the window. L2/N/G continue on to the wall receptacles.

A separate N ang G run to each circuit. I chose to use a separate G for the two circuits in case the G to one circuit somehow comes loose. No splices are planned anywhere in this setup. All receptacles use the better clamp-type screw connectors the hold the wire captive between two plates.

Is this safe? Am I violating the fill calculation for the  conduit body? I used an online calculator assuming 6 conductors pass thru box, and it yielded 13.5 cubic inches ... really? Is that much room really needed with no splices?

You said metal conduit--1/2" EMT & rigid can have nine #12 thhn/thwn wires max fill per NEC annex C conduit fill.

The area of the conduit body would only be needed only if a splice is made in that location, so the derate for more than 3 current-carrying conductors would be the next concern. 4-6 conductors require a 80% derating but the higher ampacity 90 degree table can be used for derating and you still meet code because the derated value is 24 amps.

So this is safe for a 20 amp circuit(s).


Electric floor heat in basement without tile I'm planning on putting electric floor heat in a daylight basement room which has a concrete pad. However, we don't like tile, so we'd like to use something else--preferably something that looks like wood. It could be laminate, vinyl planks, etc. The other complication is that vertical height is limited--90" from concrete pad to ceiling joists. We're in the Portland, Oregon area--the climate is cool, damp, and weird.

Has anyone installed (or had someone else install) a similar system (non-tile in a basement)? What did you use? How did it hold up? Did the manufacturer's directions (for both the electric heat and the flooring) recommend your approach?

There are numerous floor heating systems that can be used under solid wood flooring, engineered floor or carpet. An internet search of heated flooring will give you links to various floor manufacturers and heating system manufacturers.

You definitely need to check the specs on both the heating system and the finish material to ensure compatibility. There are various restrictions, such as the width of wooden floor boards to minimize problems due to moisiture changes.


How common is it for new homes to have gas-only dryer hookups? I am relocating my dryer.  I had the gas line relocated and a dedicated circuit put in for the washer and dryer.  The original location had the option for an electric dryer.  We have a gas dryer and will probably never have an electric dryer due to the high cost of electricity in our area.  I am wondering if new houses typically have just one or the other or both.  It's relatively easy to run 35ft of 10/3, but I'd rather use the available breakers in the panel for something else.

Most people in my area have older homes and have both hookups, but I believe the only reason they have both is because the cost of electricity was on par with gas in the 70's

How common is it for new homes to have gas-only dryer hookups in areas where gas is cheaper than electricity?

Around here (Pacific Northwest), electricity is inexpensive and gas is reasonable too.  However, over the last five years, gas prices have declined and will continue to do so and electric has crept up slowly and probably will forever.  Almost all houses here have electric dryers and every single rental (house, apartment, condo) is only electric, even those with gas fireplaces, water heaters, and ranges.

Personally, I like the option of using either gas or electric.  It would not increase the price I'd pay for the house, but it would be one less barrier to moving in.  And that might sway a non-buyer into a buyer.

If it were me, I'd relocate the abandoned wire to be near the new location.  If an unused breaker is actually a problem, just run the wire into the panel full length (so it can be connected anywhere when the time comes) and tuck it out of the way, and secure it, maybe all wires into the neutral strip.  Install the outlet and mark it "not connected".  Place the heavy duty outlet to be semi-accessible so that it could be used by some future high power appliance, like a big air compressor, welder, hot tub, sauna, etc.


Why does the air flow heavily from my downstairs vents, but very weak from my upstairs vents? I live in a two-story townhouse where the first floor is ground-level on a slab.  On the first floor, all air vents are either on the ceiling or at the very tops of the walls.  Upstairs, the vents are on the floor.

When I have the heat or air conditioning on, the air flows heavily and healthily from the downstairs vents, so it's always warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  Upstairs, though, the airflow is very weak, so it's cold in the winter and hot in the summer.

What could be causing this disparity of airflow?  Do I need to have someone come out and do some cleaning or is there a more home-grown approach?

Sometimes it is necessary to adjust the fins on the downstairs vents to restrict some of the airflow so that more will make it to the upper level. This is especially true in cases where there are no dampers in the ducts of the type described by BMitch in his answer.

I have a similar problem in my own two level house where I have to adjust the vent fins two times per year to set the proper upper / lower level air flow.

Another important question for you.

Have you checked the primary furnace air filter to make sure it is clean? If this has never been changed it could be restricting the air flow design of the whole heating/cooling system. I've seen these filters so clogged up with dirt and dust that it was a wonder that the furnace fan was able to circulate any air at all!!


Is this natural gas shut off valve behaving correctly? The natural gas shut off valve in the picture below is installed behind my oven. Usually when I see a valve like this, if I turn it 90 degrees, it will turn until it stops. When it stops 90 degrees from where it started, the valve is off.

However, with this valve, it doesn't stop at 90 degrees. It continues turning 180 degrees until it's facing the other direction. The valve is on in both of those positions. If I stop turning the valve at 90 degrees, it does appear to shut off, but like I said, nothing stop me from continuing to turn the valve to 180 degrees.

Is the valve meant to function this way or was something installed incorrectly? It seems strange to me to not have the valve stop at 90 degrees so you know it is definitely off. The way it is now you are basically guessing that you have properly turned the valve 90 degrees to shut the gas off.

Is this right?

When the red lever is in line with the pipe then the valve is open. When the red lever is across or at 90 degrees to the pipe it is shut. This is a very simple visual system.

I think the red lever has lost the pin or protruding part that would act as the stop for normal operation. For your safety, and others, it would be a good idea to get it replaced - if just the lever needs replacing then that is easy. But if the complete assembly needs replacing then in some places you will need a qualified gas fitter.


How to properly clean a rough concrete floor? I have an old house with an uneven concrete floor that occasionally needs to be cleaned. The basement floods during a hard rain due to some landscaping issues that I'm working on. I've cleaned it with a scrub brush and mop, but that can take quite a while and many passes before it's fully cleaned. I could also use a pressure washer but the spray from it might get other parts of my basement wet. I've looked at some concrete floor cleaning machines but they all seem designed for flat, smooth floors. What's the best way to easily clean the floor?

Mopping is great. It shouldn't be that dirty subsequent times, so it won't take as long from here out. Sweeping or vacuuming before mopping will help reduce the chance of needing more than one pass.
If you want a less manual mopping, you can get a mopping floor machine, steam floor machine, or a robotic mopper (like a roomba). Or you can get a big yellow rubbermade janitor-level mop and bucket for about $75 that will make mopping a lot quicker.
Adding a floor treatment like epoxy would also help reduce the permeability and increase the smoothness of the floor, which makes sweeping and mopping more effective. You can also just get cheap indoor/outdoor carpet for the flattest parts to cut down on what need scrubbed and mopped.


How can I completely remove all traces of mastic from old concrete? My original aim was to end up with a, possibly stained, clear-coated cement floor. After removing old floor tiles, I rented a floor grinder which took care of most of the old mastic. There were still thin spots that remained, so I bought some product at HD that softened the spots for removal, but as others have said, made a friggin' nightmarish mess of it! Will the residue prevent sealers or other coatings from absorbing into the concrete floor? If so, would thinset even stick to these areas? I don't want the expense of tile, but I've about had it trying to clean up this tar-like mastic to clean and clear-coat this floor! Any suggestions? Thanks, Bill

I had an entry way floor some 30 years ago that had old hard vinyl tile glued down in it with the blackish-brown type of adhesive. I wanted to replace that tile with a ceramic floor tile so I peeled out all of the old tile. I then used a wide razor scraper to get most of the old adhesive scraped off.

After that I purchased a few gallons of aggressive paint stripper, opened every window in the house, shut off all gas appliances and pilot lights and poured out a layer of the stripper across the whole floor.

I let it sit for a suitable time (may have been about a half hour or so). Then working some with a wire brush and metal dust pan as a scoop I took up all the goop off the floor.

Finally using a bucket and a large sponge I washed up the whole area with a copious amount of hot water to remove all the stripper residue.

After the floor fully dried the surface was the nicest clean concrete surface you could wish for. I was able to put down the tile setting cement and had no problems with it adhering to the concrete.


How can I remove a lemon from a toilet drain? My little boy flushed a whole lemon down the toilet. It is stuck. What can I use to remove the lemon?

There are attachments for coily drain snakes that have a cork screw type end on them. One example is like this:

Picture Source

Use of such attachment could screw itself into the lemon and allow pulling it out the way it went in.


How to level uneven ceiling joists for sheetrock placement So I noticed that my 1961 year old one floor home joists are not even, some areas it's bowed down.
I ran a string line, I see about 1/2 inch low points in few areas.

I have read the standard fix to this is strap the ceiling with 1X3 straps, perpendicular to the joists at 16 on center.

If I do not want to have perpendicular straps crisscrossing my ceiling, can I level the ceiling by attaching 1/2 inch Birch Plywood strips, attached along the joists (not perpendicular), and shimming where necessary? Thank you.
Alex

Sister with steel stud using a lazer. Lazer a line across at your lowest point and sister on the line. Steel stud will stay come straight, stay straight throughout the installation and after the installation. It's easy to notch around existing obstacles and easy to work around with anything new going in.

This is actually a perfect example

www.finehomebuilding.com

If you don't have a lazer a string works well too.