Interchangable compatablity of circuit breaker brands I have an older General Electric panel that I need to install a 30-amp tandem circuit breaker to create
2 240 volt circuits.  The GE panel accepts TQL-AC, TQAL-AC, THQL-AC, THQA, TXQL, type breakers.  What brands are interchangable that would fit the GE panel.

Short version: you can't cross breaker brands.   You cannot put a competitor breaker type in this panel.
A "tandem" breaker is not what you want.  Here is an article about those.
What you're hoping to use is a THQP breaker, which appears very similar to a tandem breaker, however, is actually a 2-pole breaker that is half-height.  On certain GE panels, GE has a system that uses 1/2" tall (half-height) breakers, 2 per breaker space.  Their 2-pole breakers in that system are 1" tall and straddle 2 breaker spaces, with a 1/2" breaker above and below them.
You can't use them.  Those half-width breakers clip onto a special cross-bars added to the bus stabs, and your bus stabs don't have them.    You can see the cross-bars in the lower 5 rows of this panel here:


Hot water is coming out of all faucets brown I live on the second floor in a condominium and had my direct vent hot water heater replaced approximately 8 years ago.  At the time I recall having various vendors out to give me an estimate and very faintly remember being denied service because I'm on the second floor and because my hot water heater unit is 'special.'  This could be incorrect, but I remember having to go with a plumbing company in my community that specializes in units for our community (I'm sure this was BS now that I look back).

Today, after the first really cold night we have had all winter, we woke up to brown water coming out of all of the faucets (hot side only).  I have never done any routine maintenance on the hot water heater because I was never instructed to do so.

I called the same vendor who did the installation for us 8 years ago and charged me $1,350.00 and asked what that would cost today.  They told me the unit alone is now $2,800.00 bucks.

I'm wondering if I was ripped off and being upsold?  Our unit is 50 gallons for an 1100 square feet condo with 2 full bedrooms.

Any ideas on what could be wrong and is this something a regular plumber should be able to resolve for us?

Edit

I also now understand that my aquatherm unit also works in conjunction with my hot water heater.  So I imagine this also is what inflates the cost of the unit I need to purchase?

Definitely get a plumber out. Sounds like the water heater is dying. Either scale build-up dropped off the tank side, tank surface rust gets weaker as it gets thicker & accumulated mineral deposits will peel off in large pieces. Or, your anode rod was so eaten away that a piece fell off of that. Items dropping in the tank stirs up the tank's bottom sediments.

The Aquatherm can contribute since it has metals, but that didn't cause it. The water heater just wasn't serviced & therefore assessed every year or 2. Run the hot water for 10 or more minutes, like taking a shower, to see if it clears up at all. Use the bath tub (if you have one) not the shower or a sink that you can get the aerator off (the tub doesn't have one) of so you won't have to take it off later for unclogging.

Yikes, I haven't heard of a direct or power vent 50-gallon water heater costing that much before installation costs. Yeah, $1350 & that's still right in line now with the home improvement stores...Maybe you do have a specially shaped water heater or the contractor owns the market & is taking advantage.


Can I connect ground to neutral in a 3 wire outlet? I have a 3 wire outlet with the entrances for hot, neutral and ground. But I know that the ground entrance is not really grounded, so in effect useless. Now, since the neutral is grounded, could I connect the ground entrance with the neutral therefore "grounding" the ground? What would be the problem with that?

Bridging the neutral and ground at the outlet is against code. This is called a Bootleg ground. You have a few different options to bring this up to code (corresponding to the NEC electrical code):

Replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet, and leave the outlet's ground unconnected. This is minimally dangerous, the risk is if you get your body somewhere in between the hot and neutral.... but it'll protect you if current tries to flow between the outlet, and devices on another outlet (or the ground).
Add an additional ground wire. The wire must be of the proper gauge, and go to a "grounding electrode", or your main circuit panel. There are a few other details that you'd need to follow. See NEC 250.130(C) for details.
Rerun the wiring for the outlet with three-conductor cable/conduit.
Replace the outlet with a 2-prong outlet.

Keep in mind that the ground and neutral should be connected together at your house's service entrance, and nowhere else.

The "ground" connector is often connected to the chassis of electric equipment, for example the metal case of your oven, lamp, etc.... One danger is that the neutral is not really at the same potential as the ground. The neutral wiring from your device has some non-zero resistance. The electric current flowing through your device also flows through the neutral wire. The current flowing through your neutral causes the voltage of the neutral to increase (based on Ohm's law, voltage = current * resistance), which can cause your neutral to be a few volts above ground. So, if you have a properly grounded device, next to a device connected to your bootlegged ground, you can shock yourself by touching the two cases since they will be at different potentials.

A second problem with connecting the ground to the neutral happens if your neutral wire breaks between the outlet and your service entrance. If the neutral breaks, then plugged in devices will cause the neutral to approach the "hot" voltage. Given a ground to neutral connection, this will cause the chassis of your device to be at the "hot" voltage, which is very dangerous.


Want to convert a garage 4 wire receptacle to standard 3 prong receptacle I built a garage and electrician installed what a plug that won't receive my 250 volt appliances. The hardware store tells me it is a dryer plug and can't understand why it was installed in a garage. It is a NEMA 30 AMP (14-30R) 125/250 volt receptacle, with 4 holes.
So, I have 4 wires (red, black, white and bare ground) and need to set it up with the 3 prong plug they provided me.  It is a 30 AMP 250 Volt receptacle with 3 prongs holes. One of which is labeled ground.

How do I set this up - if I can?  Do both the 2 live wired go in one connection?

The NEMA 14 series connectors are the correct, legal, safe and state-of-the-art connectors.  It is absolutely correct for the electrician to install NEMA 14 unless you specified NEMA 6.

NEMA 10 is obsolete and dangerous, as it does not have a ground wire, and the usual installation process ties neutral to ground, which is asking for trouble.

You say your plug does have a ground wire, which makes it a NEMA 6.  It is fairly trivial to convert a NEMA 14 receptacle to NEMA 6, since all the needed wires are present.  Or you can change the plug/cord on the appliance, the neutral in NEMA 14 is simply not used.

You will need to change the breaker to whatever size of NEMA 6 you fit.

One NEMA 6-15 socket -- 15A breaker
More than one NEMA 6-15 socket -- 15A or 20A breaker
Any number of NEMA 6-20 receptacles -- 20A breaker
NEMA 6-30 receptacle -- 30A breaker
NEMA 6-50 receptacle -- not allowed on 10 AWG wire


Weather Resistant Outlets vs Weather Proof Box If I use a regular GFCI in a Weather Proof In-Use box does the GFCI have to be the Weather Resistant kind?

Yes. If the receptacle is in a wet or damp location, the receptacle must be a weather-resistant type.
In a damp location, you can use any weatherproof cover.  In a wet location, you must use an "extra-duty" cover. "Extra-duty" covers, provide  weatherproofing even when a cord is attached to the receptacle.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use.
Article 406 Receptacles, cord connectors, and attachment Plugs.
406.9 Receptacles in Damp or Wet Locations.
(A) Damp Locations ...All 15- and 20- ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking receptacles shall be a listed weather-resistant type.
(B) Wet Locations.
(1) 15-and 20-Ampere Receptacles in a Wet Location. ...All 15- and 20 ampere, 125- and 250-volt nonlocking-type receptacles shall be listed weather-resistant type.
Chapter 1 General
Article 100 Definitions
Location, Damp. Locations protected from weather and not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of moisture.
Location, Dry. A location not normally subject to dampness or wetness. A location classified as dry may be temporarily subject to dampness or wetness, as in the case of a building under construction.
Location, Wet. Installations underground or in concrete slabs or masonry in direct contact with the earth; in locations subject to saturation with water or other liquids, such as vehicle washing areas; and in unprotected locations exposed to weather.


Indoor fuel tank removed - How to eliminate lingering smell Background: I recently replaced my home heating system (an oil burning furnace) for a modern heat pump (air-water).  There is a room in our basement (2.9m x 3.5m, or roughly 10ft x 13ft) where the 10'000 liter (~2500 gallons) tank used to be.  The room was completely sealed off from the basement, save for a small window-sized opening through which you could enter to service the tank, should that be necessary.

I had a contractor cut out a door opening, and then a specialized firm came to clean the tank, cut it into smaller pieces, and recycle the steel chunks. I have now and empty room that reeks of oil, which I want to turn into a home gym.  It's been some 4 weeks since we cut a door opening, and opened up the grilled vent to the outside, and although I've let enough air circulate, it still reeks as much as it did on the first day.

I assumed some oil may have leaked through the years onto the floor, which had a sort of epoxy coating, stained brown in some places.  So I carefully removed it all.  It took a lot of effort with a putty knife and paint scrapers.  But even with a completely clean floor, it still smells.  The lower half of the walls, which have the same paint/epoxy coating, have brown stains all over, which I imagine may have significant deposits of oil, perpetuating the lingering smell in the room.  I read that spraying concentrated hydrogen peroxide helps eliminate all smells, so I carefully sprayed 12% hp on the walls (wearing a full body suit, goggles and a breating mask), which didn't have any significant effect overnight.

The question: is there any reasonable way (that doesn't involve overly expensive or extremely time-consuming efforts) to get rid of the smell, before I apply the decorative textured plaster on the walls? Would a controlled burn (e.g. with a small gas torch, with proper ventilation) help at all?  Do you think applying plaster over the existing walls wouldn't do enough to cover the oil smell?

These pictures show the level of stains on the walls. Here you can see what I believe was pretty much the original color of the coating (first pic) vs the back wall.

Edit / Update: on Friday I primed and then used self-levelling compound (about 750lb / 350kg) to raise and level the floor, which had over 1 ¼ / 30mm height difference.  The smell is completely gone.  So as several of you pointed out, the oil had somehow leaked and penetrated the floor, which is now completely covered by a non porous concrete layer.   Thank you all for your kind participation !!!

I wouldn't do a "controlled burn". If the oil penetrated deep into the wall structure. You could create more problems than you have already.

If you want to plaster the walls and protect the new plaster from the oil on the walls, for belt and braces I would use an oil based paint and cover the affected areas in the paint. If you are not sure how much of the wall is affected, paint the whole wall.

Don't immediately plaster over the dry paint though as the paint here needs additional time to set.

Once the paint has had enough additional time to set, you can jump right in and start applying the priming PVA which will help the plaster adhere firmly to the wall.

It is also advised that you select the correct plaster undercoat for painted walls, for example, see Table 1a (Plaster  selection - PDF page 7) in https://www.british-gypsum.com/~/media/Files/British-Gypsum/White-Book/White-Book-C07-S02-Linings-Plaster-systems.pdf?la=en


Do I have to remove the old thinset before installing new tile? I will be installing some new 12x12 tiles in two bathrooms approx 25 sq/ft each. When I pulled up the old tiles, there was no thin set that had made contact with them so the removal was very easy. Now, the thin set on the floor is a different story. I have been chipping away at it by hand in one bathroom to get to the cement floor below and it has been a bugger to get off. Before I attempt to continue this process in the second bathroom, I would like to know if it is absolutely required to do so if it is well adhered to the cement underneath?

(It's my hope, obviously, that I can tile over the old thin set as long as it is level and firmly attached.)

EDIT: My subfloor is a concrete slab with the thin set on it. It must be chipped away to remove vs. cut and replace sub floor.

Like Greebo says, you want to get back down to the concrete, but I'd suggest that more to have a flat surface to build on top of. To make the job go faster, you can use a power tool. Several would get the job done:

Power Chisel (best fit for the job):

Air Hammer (you'd need a high capacity air compressor):

Demo Hammer (more power than you need, but it could be useful for other jobs in the future):

MC Hammer (don't touch this):


Insulating inside on an exterior brick wall I have a city house that is over 100 years old and the bedroom has two exterior walls made of brick. Inside the walls are plastered over.  Normally, I would just add 2” framing and use polyiso foam.  This time under the paneling I see that used 1x3 furring strips and put fiberglass batts.  Says it is R9 which is hard to believe being that the furring is actually less than an inch and fiberglass should not be packed.

My question is how much is lost by crushing the fiberglass and should I just replace it with 2” R13 polyiso foam board. Will it make that much more of an improvement?

Thanks

The chart I have shows the R values of compressed insulation. My take away on this is that you have only an R value of 3.3

Going with the foam would be a nice step up.


Level hardwood floor that was covered by baseboard I recently removed my baseboard to be able to put the free standing wardrobe close to the wall.
I noticed that the approximately 1 inch of floor where the baseboard was sitting on is a little higher than the rest of the room - don't know why. Maybe it was an old floor?
I need to level the floor, or even remove it, so the wardrobe sits straight on the floor.

What would you recommend? Using a rotary tool with a sanding drum would do it?

This "uncovered" floor is maybe 1/6 inch higher than the rest of the room.
A little less than 1 inch wide (baseboard depth) and 60 inches long.
Ideally I should not remove it, because there will be a gap.

Thanks!

Make a cut using whatever small saw you have on hand--keyhole, reciprocating, oscillating--at each side of the opening just down to floor level.
Use a chisel or other sharp tool to split the grain at floor level, shaving off a thin strip.

_________ ___________________ ____________ <-- top of protruding board
_________|___________________|____________ <-- floor level
               ^-- chisel here
         ^-- vertical cuts --^

Alternatively, install some plastic feet on the front of your wardrobe and forget about it.


Fast, easy and simple construction of a log store We've just bought a whopping great log burner, and so our thoughts have turned to keeping it fed over the winter. I've plenty of ash trees, some beech, and an old sycamore that over the last couple of years have provided logs, but they're scattered around the garden slowly rotting.

Before they become completely unusable I'd like to dry them (and the good logs) out under cover. I've space down at the bottom of our property that's sheltered under trees so I'm going to build a wood store there and over-winter logs for next autumn.

I don't want to make a drama of this and make something elegant and beautiful, not least as the space I've in mind is tucked away in a copse and therefore invisible! So I was just going to get some treated 3x3 fence posts, some pre-built fence panels, and roof over with ply and roofing felt. I'll most likely create a raised "floor" of longish bits of old timber propped up on old bricks. The front will be left open and I'll most likely leave the rear apex of the roof open too so everything can breathe but is dry.

Would this work? Any suggestions, in particular for making sure the edifice is properly fixed to the ground?

In the past, I've used lattice layed over a 2x4 frame as a floor.  This works well to get some ventilation from the bottom.  I've also used lattice on the sides as well.  Don't worry too much about keeping the logs perfectly dry.  What you want is good airflow so that any surface moisture can dry quickly.  You probably also want to think about having a few sections, so that you can add new wood to one section, and take older seasoned wood from a different section.

I've also heard about people just nailing together four pallets to make a three sided box.  If you have a tractor with pallet forks, this also makes it easy to move wood next to the house as needed.


Fluidmaster 400A fill valve: very slow toilet tank fill I installed a Fluidmaster 400A almost 10 years ago. There is excellent water flow into the overflow pipe, but the tank is taking longer and longer to fill after flushing--now almost 4 minutes.  Much water is thus being wasted going down the overflow pipe.  Everything else is working perfectly.  Do you recommend removing the valve cap assembly to try to flush out debris from the fill valve (I have instructions for that), or should I just buy a new 400A and replace the old unit?
 (I always have problems with leaks when I do replacements.)

Cleaning out the valve should help. On the other hand, a new 400A fill valve is about $7.50 and it will take you under 5 minutes to replace your existing one (water off, slide the retainer ring up, pull the old valve, throw it away, put the new valve down at the same height, click the retainer ring back down, re-attach tube to overflow, water on).

I'm pretty sure any pro would just replace the valve to save time.


Is a duplex outlet's max amperage rating for each socket or the whole unit? If you have a duplex outlet thats rated for lets say 20 amps, is the whole unit rated for 20 amps, or is each socket rated for 20 amps?

Edit: So if I had a circuit that had a 40A breaker on it, could I have 2 devices that both draw a max of 20A on the same duplex outlet?

Each socket can supply up to 20 amps.

However, the total draw of everything on the circuit can also not exceed 20 amps.

Therefore, if you only have one device on the circuit, it can draw up to 20A from any one outlet.
However, if you have a 15A device on the circuit, the remaining devices can only draw up to 5A.

Basically, the sum of the current draws for every device on the circuit has to be less then 20A.


How to strengthen two joists that have had big sections cut out to make space for roller garage door The diagram below shows the problem and also the atypical way the roof was framed originally (see this question)
This garage door was already in place since long before we bought the house and separate garage about ten years ago, I've noticed no visible problems until now as I'm looking into flooring the attic.
I dont know how old the cracks are in the wall plate under joists 2 and 3 (joist 3 wasn't cut at all)
There are smaller cracks in other places and there are some metal reinforcing strips screwed into the plate crosswise.

One solution that came to mind was to add further joists on top of the upper plates over joists 1 and 2 and possibly 3, as in the diagram below.

Would the above be a valid way to proceed or not?
Possibly related, the two rafters attached to joist 3 have a very crude collar tie between them, quite high up in the attic, well above head height standing on the third joist. There aren't any others except one, ten or twelve joists further along. The tie isn't even level.
Thanks for reading and especially for any guidance offered.
Edit to add photos
Taking these, i realised that the diagrams above are incorrect, the upper plates are not directly over the lower ones, they lie approx 4" lateral
which I think might explain the upward bowing.
The second photo maybe gives some clue as to the quality of the 10" by 2" joists.
You can also see the cracking in the lower plate in the third photo.
The wall to wall span is 16 feet and the joists are every 16"

The wisest course of action is to consult a licensed structural engineer in your area for a remediation plan.  They can tell you where you need to add structure to resolve the issue.


soundprofing edm studio room if i hang mass loaded vinyl like curtains around the room,will it soundproof the room do other neighbours will not complain when im doing music in strange hours?
what other options do i have for a rental apartment?

i know about this product Producer's Choice
but i don't know if it will soundproof the room

thanks

You're right that the sound blankets will do little if anything to soundproof the room. They mostly just serve to reduce echo.

Hanging MLV curtains on the walls will probably make a noticeable difference at higher frequencies, but won't do much to stop bass. You can get somewhat better results if the curtains are separated from the walls by a good distance (a few feet) but again it's still not going to do a lot to stop bass. You can add in a riser that isolates the sound from the floor, for a bigger improvement.

But your only truly effective option if you can't modify the existing construction is to build a room within a room, with its own isolated floor and ceiling.


Least invasive way to find foundation footings under basement slab? For a 100-year-old brick house (two-flat) in Chicago, I'd like to find my foundation footings so that I can plan in-floor heating.

What's the least invasive way to do so?

I'm imagining drilling holes in the concrete floor slab at intervals until I go deeper than the slab, sampling along a wall and then drawing a chalk line.

How do the pros find foundation footings in preparation for a basement dig-out?  Also is there a standard size for a foundation rim of this vintage?

There’s several issues you’ll need to determine to “dig-out basement” 1) location and type of all existing footings, 2) load on existing footings, 3) angle of repose of soil, 4) water table.

1) In order to not undermine the existing footings, you’ll need to not only locate the extent of all footings, but insure you understand what type of footings are under your house. Just because you see a continuous spread footing, it doesn’t mean that it doesn’t have piers or piles under it.

2) you’ll need to determine the existing load on the footings so you know what kind of load is being transferred to the soil. (This May help you determine what type of footing is installed. If it’s too unreasonable for the soil conditions, then you can be sure other systems are included, like piles, etc.)

3) If the footing is bearing directly on the undisturbed soil, then the footing is relying on the soil that falls within the angle of repose for that soil to resist that load. You cannot dig straight down next to the footing without undermining its support.

4) you’ll need to determine the water table depth for all seasons in order to protect the basement from moisture.

Now, to answer your question: you can try a snake camera (as someone has suggested) but that will only work if there’s a void under your slab. I doubt that’s the case, because you’d need a structural slab for a basement floor, or you could use an x-ray machine (we use these to find rebar in concrete), or try Building Codes for old blueprints, or trial and error with a small drill...however, you could allow water to flow in, weaken the slab or footing,etc., or you could ask architects, contractors, cement finishers, cement yards, etc. to see if there is a standard type of footing used for your type of house in your neighborhood.


Does an existing unprotected conductor need to be immediately rewired? While cleaning up under the sink, I noticed that an existing owner wired the disposal outlet as shown:

It has a red conductor traveling into the crawlspace without a plastic or metallic sheath.

I will use a tester to determine if this wire is the red load from the breaker as its supposed to indicate, or whether the retrofit added this as a grounding wire.

Regardless my suspicion is that this should be redone as soon as possible to prevent fire?

My guess is this is a retrofit ground wire, added to upgrade a two-prong receptacle to a three-prong.  If this is the case, the wire would go from the ground terminal on that receptacle to another ground - the code allows several things for the other ground.  It should not be orange, instead green or bare, and it should be installed in a more "neat and workmanlike" manner, but if it does ground the receptacle, it's a good thing.

If it's not, it's pretty weird, a code violation, and a hazard that I'd give prompt attention.

To determine what it is, you'd need to kill power and look at what's going on inside that box, and determine where the other end of that wire goes.


How do I fix a faucet that turns all the way around? The hot water faucet in my bathroom sink turns in circles instead of stopping at the fully closed/open positions. It gives slight resistance at some points.

This annoying as I can't tell where the shutoff point is and it inevitably ends up dripping.

I haven't delved into plumbing at all so I'm not sure what to do or how bad this is.

If the tap is working at all, it must be a cartridge type, rather than a washer (screw down) type.

Fix #1 - It is possible that the cap nut (the big nut below the handle that the stem goes through) has risen to allow the handle to spin above the stops (which limits the minimum and maximum positions).  If that were the case, you would probably have a leak around the tap handle. If so, you should be able to screw the cap nut down, in which case the handle will re-engage the stops. You may have to giggle the handle as you wind the nut down.

Fix #2 - The next possibility is that the stops that are broken off.  If this is the case, you may need a new piece in the faucet that incorporates the stops (if it is separate). The maunfacturer's site may offer replacement parts.  I

Fix #3 - If there is not a separate part available, and if the tap is separate (a three hole unit) you may be able to get a replacement of just the broken one from the manufacturer.

Fix #4 - If all else fails,(or if you want a fast and probably cost effective fix),  it may be worth getting a whole new faucet set.

Fix #5 - Given that you say you haven't delved into plumbing, unless fix #1 solves the problem, you probably should call a plumber.


Can I suspend lights within my property boundaries, above my wall heights on my roof deck? I have a condo with a roof deck (super awesome). The deck is very large, but is right in between two other decks (we share the same dividing walls) of two adjacent condos. The walls are not particularly high; I can look over onto both neighboring decks by simply standing up. I would like to erect wooden poles (fastened by cement into large potted planters) completely within the bounds of own deck to string up lights overhead. During the inspection, my realtor's assistant  made a passing comment that something like that may be tricky (in the am-I-allowed-to-do-it sense) as the light from my deck would thus be shining onto the other decks. I double checked the condo documents and no mention of such a restriction is present; it seems ok... but is it ok? I don't know what other provisions/laws/codes I should be checking.

IANACO  (I am not a condo owner)

This seems like something that won't be in the rules because no one thought it important.  Probably no rule about using your deck for landing starship shuttles either.  Same idea.

That said.  Simple courtesy requires that you not disturb the other owners. So...

A:  Wire it up with a 3 way switch with a switch on each neighbor's fence.  This would allow them to turn it off if they have a stargazing party and you forgot to turn the lights off.

B:  Get/Make lamp shades that reflect the light that would otherwise go onto your neighbours place.  Boundary lights have a triangle (actually a parabola shape) that is white on  your side, some innocuous colour on your neighbors side that reflects light back onto your land.  Lights inside the boundary wear a cone to direct the light in a cone that doesn't go over the fence.

Depending on how fractious your condo association is, you may want to ask first.  Sketch out what you propose to do and ask your two neighbours if this is a problem.

As a neighbor I would usually be more concerned about noise than about light.


Securing plywood underlayment to timber sub-floor I am laying 12mm plywood on existing timber flooring (before laying Hardiebacker board & ceramic tiles). Apart from screwing the ply to the sub-floor, should I also use grab adhesive or thinset mortar?

The reasoning for thinset (I'm told) is that it helps to fill & support the plywood over any low spots in the old timber floor (18mm tongue and groove on 400mm c/c joists).

I would glue and screw down the plywood.  If you use hardy backer board I would use a dash patch or leveling compound on that before you set your tile.  A good alternative would be to do a mud job on top of the plywood that would take care of the leveling problem.  A mud job is tar paper stapled to the plywood with a layer of stainless steel mesh nailed to that and a mixture of Portland cement and sand set on top of that.  The cement is leveled and suitable for thin set application.  This should last a very long time.


Should I replace 3/4" and 1/2" galvanized pipe with the same sizes of pex? So I am about to replumb my house. From the meter to my house is 3/4" 60 yr old galvanized pipe. Once it gets to the house it changed to 1/2" lines serving everything in the house. Example is a 1/2" supply to each fixture branching off of a 1/2" line. I have 82psi inside the house. When I use two fixtures like toilet and washing machine pressure drops to 12psi. I measure this with a water pressure gauge on the water hose bib.

I plan on replacing the 3/4" galvanized to 3/4" pex and run all my fixtures with separate 1/2" lines to each fixture attached to a 3/4" pex manifold. i am using Expandable Pex A so that i wont lose ID in the fittings. i am also will use a pressure reducer to keep pressure at 60psi.

Does anyone for see any problems with this upgrade?

I see your system design viable and acceptable, however modern practice would dictate 1" main lines, 3/4" sub-lines and 1/2" branch to individual fixtures.  I would run 1" to the manifold.  Depending on the individual length, 3/4" and 1/2" would be run to the fixtures.


How do I stop my in-cabinet lights from falling out? I bought a house three months ago and I'm slowly getting around to different projects. We have beautiful halogen in-cabinet lights above our kitchen sink but the light fixtures seem to fall out every three weeks. I haven't gotten around to pushing the last batch in just yet.

There are many that have fallen out and are dangling:

And a couple that are burnt out. I'll swap the bulbs out tonight.

What can I do to keep these from falling out? I don't see a way to secure them more effectively. Should I buy pieces of cork to wedge in there? I want to be able to get them down when it's time to change the bulb however.

Edit A few more pictures:

Light from the side - there are small plastic "tension" clips that don't seem to be doing their job anymore:

From the rear:

Light from the front (a bit dark)

There is a significant gap between the top of the hole that the lights are mounted in and the bottom of the cabinet above. I can't directly attach the bulb to the cabinet above.

I am also concerned about using any form of adhesive as these are halogen lights and they get quite hot...

I have similar looking lights in my cabinets. The tabs on the side are meant to engage a plastic retaining collar mounted to the cabinet. The previous owners did not install the collars, but they did leave them behind in the back of one of the cabinets. Unfortunately, there were 3 missing.

For those three, I used a staple gun to make a little lip just inside the edge of the hole. Here's a picture of where I would put the staple(s) in your cabinet.

My lights had 4 tabs, so I used 4 staples in the proper position. I also used a screwdriver to back the staples out a bit for a better fit. The first one I did I just pried the staple out a bit. But for the subsequent ones I held the screwdriver against the edge of the hole and just stapled over the top.

Then to install the lights, make sure the tabs and the staples are NOT aligned, insert the light, and give it a little twist to slide the tabs over the staples.


How should I waterproof an upstairs bathroom floor? I'm adding on a bathroom upstairs.  My question is what precautions should I take to waterproof it.  I'll have new copper, PVC drains and the floor itself I'm worried about.  It's sitting half above a bedroom and the pipes will be running around the studs.

1) Is there anything I should do to the studs/drywall underneath to minimize issues in case of a leak in the PVC/copper supply plumbing?

2) What's best to put on top of the sub floor.  I was thinking of doing one piece of laminate flooring, should I put something underneath it, are there certain products that are better?  There will be a pre-fab shower and I'd rather not do any tile in this bathroom.

3) Should this flooring run completely under the shower?  Anything special I should do while setting the toilet/sink to keep it waterproof.

Most of the floor of a bathroom should not see any great water leaks or standing water. The average puddle you make getting out of the shower before you can towel off will not pose any great threat. If your plumbing work is up to code, that shouldn't be a concern either. However, a plumbing emergency can pose a greater threat.

For laminate floors, it is generally a good idea to lay down a layer of moisture barrier, like Tyvek, between the sub-floor and laminate, and if the sub-floor is over concrete (doesn't seem to be the case here) another layer between the concrete and the subfloor. This prevents the transfer of liquid water between the layers of the floor, while still allowing the layers to adjust to changes in humidity without forming condensation. For the majority of the bathroom floor this should provide ample leakage protection if properly installed.

Make sure that the laminate, once installed, is well-sealed; laminate's great for providing a wood-like floor, but if water gets under the waterproof (or water-tolerant) top layer of the laminate and into the particle board underneath, the boards will swell and your floor will be ruined. A poly or acrylic topcoat will seal the cracks between planks and help protect the flooring; your flooring dealer can probably recommend a product that's compatible with your particular brand of laminate.

Where you really need to take care is in the shower area. If you have a tiled shower, behind that tile needs to be a waterproof barrier which will contain water that gets behind the tile grout (not waterproof) and direct it to the drain, instead of letting it contact the drywall or subfloor. It is not a terrible idea to install the same type of membrane everywhere in the bathroom, but it's probably overkill especially since you'll be wanting to prevent water even getting that far.

The main source of water leakage out of a bathroom, which you will likely not be able to prevent, is inside the walls. You probably won't know there's a problem until you hear water dripping onto your ceiling, or see that telltale tea-stain on a ceiling or wall. There is not a whole lot you can do to prevent this once the walls are up; the keys to prevention are in proper installation of the pipes in the first place. Minimizing joints in supply pipes, which can swell and shrink at different rates with temperature, and making sure all joints on all types of plumbing are well-sealed, are key to minimizing leaks. Any plumber worth his salt will use the appropriate joining materials liberally (solder and flux for copper pipe, glue for PVC/HDPE, rings and cement for PEX).


How much air ventilation required for oil burner in a closet? We are redoing our basement and closeting off the boiler and hot water heater. With our layout, it makes most sense to vent it out of the chimney. However, I want to make sure we are getting enough air draw. Does anyone know if slated doors are enough? Is there a better system I'm not thinking of?

According to NFPA 31, you'll need two openings. One near the top, and one near the bottom. Each of which must be 1 in.² per 1000 Btu/h of the input rating of all the appliances in the confined space.

NFPA 31 Standard for Installation of Oil Burning Equipment.
Chapter 5 Air for Combustion and Ventilation.
5.4 Appliances Located in Confined Spaces.
5.4.1 All Air Taken from Inside the Building.
5.4.1.1 The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings as shown in figure 5.4.1.1, one near the top of the space and one near the bottom.
5.4.1.2 Each opening shall have a free area of not less than 1 in.² per 1000 Btu/h (140 in.² per gal/h) (22 cm²/kw), based on the total input rating of all appliances in the space.


Can you wrap HVAC Ductwork with heat shrink film to seal leaks? Can HVAC ductwork be shrink wrapped? Like with flame retardant construction film? Maybe something like this.

I have substantial leaks coming from where the ductwork connects to the air handler. A technician tried to tape it up and then tried to slather a thick layer of duct butter... and then tried even more duct butter. There continue to be lots of little holds leaking out. Condensation seems to be melting the butter away. Because of the location, removing/replacing would require moving the entire furnace/air handler. I would like to find another way to seal it up. It seems the easiest way would be to shrink wrap it to seal it all up.

What you linked to may be the simplest solution for now since the HVAC guy goobered up the duct work with mastic.

Otherwise the tape that J Hirsch linked to at HD would be the fix for it, and it still may if the mastic that was used will allow it to hold, if the duct is NOT flex duct, so there is backing where the tape is applied. If it is flex duct and there is backing, like where the duct attaches to the collar at the unit, then it will work...possibly. Again the mastic may keep it from bonding well. If the duct is clean, free from dust, that stuff will stick really well.

Using the heat shrink stuff may come at a great cost unless you go to a marina where they use the stuff regularly for winterization for the upper deck of the boats in the storage yard. But that may be really wide stuff, but a 3 ft wide strip could be cut off the end and it may get you a 12 X 3ft piece for example.

Explain what you need it for and you may be surprised, the folks may even give you tips on how to work with it. Whenever I use something that is not the norm for a particular item, the folks that have it, once they understand what I am needed to accomplish are usually more than willing to help. Then..... sometimes...


Can I reduce the current/power consumption of an electrical heater by adding a resistor? I have a 2000W, 240V electrical heating element that I need to move. Connecting it to where it needs to be makes it draw, together with 2 other elements, more current than the fuse will allow (16A). Is there a way for me to add a resistor somewhere such that the heating element will draw less current?

Edit: The two other elements have a wattage of 1200W and 800W. The three elements are used to heat a large room. I don't mean to put two of these elements in series, just to reduce the heat produced by the 2000W element by making it consume less, if possible.

Ideally, I'd like to cut the power of the 2000W element about by half. Yes, I could disconnect the small 800W element, but I like it, it's the nicer one and it's close to the couch :)

Let's explore what can be done with series combinations. We'll begin by working out the resistance of each of the elements. V=IR and P=VI, so P=V^2/R and thus R=V^2/P. The 800W element is 72 ohms, the 1200W is 48 ohms, and the 2000W is 28.8 ohms.

First, to directly answer your question, could a resistor be added in series with that 2000W element to make it heat less? Suppose we wanted to get 1500W from the combination of the element and the resistor. We'd need the combined resistance to be 240^2/1500=38.4 ohms, and the 2000W element contributes 28.8 of this, so another 9.6 ohms are needed. How much power would that new resistor need to safely dissipate? Well, the 1500W power at 240V means a current of 1500/240=6.25 amps. Then the power in that new 9.6 ohm resistor is I^2*R or 375W. It's not impossible to find a resistor capable of handling that power, but it's not exactly easy either.

OK, what would happen if two of your heaters were wired in series? Suppose we pick the 2000W and the 800W. The total resistance is 100.8 ohms and the power would be 571W. Added to the full-power 1200W unit, you'll have 1771W of heating. If the 2000W and the 1200W are in series then it's 76.8 ohms and 750W, for a room total of 1550W. Finally, if the 2000W is allowed to run full power while the 800W and 1200W units are in series, they'll have a resistance of 120 ohms and power 480W. The room total would be 2480W.

One other option.. you could consider powering any of the heaters from 120V instead of 240V. It'll deliver 1/4 of the nameplate power if you do that.


How do I wire a switch to control a GFCI Receptacle? I want to switch a GFI outlet.  It will be on a single 20 Amp circuit breaker with no other outlets or devices in the circuit or downstream from the outlet.  It will be used to switch a dust collection unit on and off in my workshop.

Is the proper way to wire this:

Place the switch in the hot wire going to the "line" side of the GFCI outlet.
Run the neutral wire uninterrupted to the "line" side of the GFCI outlet.
Connect ground wires as usual, switch and outlet.

Yes that is correct - you always want to switch the hot.  Just make sure you use a switch and wire rated for 20amps.


How to repaint a wall with peeling paint I have a wall that needs repainting:

I guess I first need to remove the existing paint and then repaint?

How do I remove the paint? With a heat gun or some chemical way?

Also, I prefer not to repaint the whole thing but only one wall:

Is that a good idea? If yes, how do I remove the paint only from one wall and not from the other walls and ceiling?

Thanks
Jenia

You only need to remove loose or peeling paint - you can paint over paint that is in good condition. Mechanical means (sanding or scraping) are typically sufficient to remove paint that needs to be removed.

In painting a single wall, you will likely have problems matching the color of the other walls. You'll be amazed just how many shades of "white" there are, and how glaring the difference can be. Depending on the use of the area this may not be a concern.

But, if you have water damage, you need to first solve the leak (source of water), and you may need to replace some drywall as well as (before) the painting to fully resolve the damage.


Why would changing a light bulb cause the oven heat and control to fail? I recently replaced the bulb on my oven. However I did put back the insulating looking ring. I pushed the oven light button while baking nachos. I heard a pop and the heat went out as did the light and digital display that shows temp, time... The burners still work though. New wires inside needed? New fuse? Can someone please help!

Since you mentioned an insulating ring and every thing was fine until you turned on the light there is a short in the wiring (the pop) was something going to ground. Hopefully there is a fuse but some damage to the wiring or control board is likely if not fused inside the controller. With the power off look for a fuse and or blown traces on the controller.


How can I make a bedroom with lots of windows darker? I'm moving into a gorgeous new house with one wrinkle: my bedroom has two full walls of windows, plus skylights. Most of the day, this is great, but at night, I really want it dark where I sleep.

I am coming up with a few options, all of them mediocre, and thought the DIYers might have more:

Buy a zillion window shades/curtains. Con: with the number of windows I have (plus the skylights) this is pushing into the $2000-3000 range.
Curtain off a space with light-blocking curtains and put the bed in there. Con: bad ventilation in the summer.
Buy a four-poster bed and hang light-blocking curtains from it. Con: as #2, but much worse.
Learn to sleep in a sleep mask. :-/

Any other thoughts from the assembled? Have you done this and had it work out?

I'm not sure how window shades would be costing so much, have you seen blackout curtains?

I have also seen suggested fitting the window with thick styrofoam pieces. This is very cheap and easily removable, but not very pretty.

Another option is tinfoil. Over a few years the sun begins to eat at the foil and small holes appear.


Why is roof buckling? My old roof wasn't  buckling, so why is new one buckling?
What would you suggest I do , roofer refuses to fix. Roof is 3.5 yrs old.
Thank you.

If the roof sheathing was replaced the spacing of the roof sheathing is most likely the issue.

You can check this by going into your attic and checking that there is spacing between the roof sheathing boards (likely OSB plywood)  board to board typically 1/16 , 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch spacing which allows for expansion, this distance varies depending on direction [top-bottom Long side to long side , width side to Width side].  The board might have an installation instruction stamped on it - that would give you proper spacing for those boards. If the board was installed with those instructions on the attic side of the board you will be able to see the directions for spacing of those specific boards from inside your attic  (if all are buckling or only a few - check the ones that are buckling and the ones closest to them).

After verifying the information above - contact another roofer mention your info and get a quote for a repair and his written explanation of what caused it.

After you have the quote; write the original roofer requesting he repair the roof as it was not installed properly (be cordial and let them know another roofer has looked at the issue as well) allow him time to respond 2 weeks is more than enough time.

During this time you can also get a free consultation from an attorney take your info with you, then if your roofer does not respond let the attorney deal with it so you can have another roofer fix it.

Of course sometimes all the original roofer needs is a letter from an attorney on the attorneys letterhead.


toilet flush problems I used plunger,chemicles,snake, several times upto 8 ft, replaced entire filler assembly.Flapjack won't matter cause i've held it up to get a complete flush and it didn't make a difference. the bowl is filling up but it onle glugs,instead of PATUUSH! Help please

That means you either have a clog farther down the line than an 8' snake can reach, or you have a blocked vent. You can try snaking your vent. You can also try running a garden hose down the vent, but you run the risk of overflowing the drains in your house so be careful. Otherwise, you'll need to rent a longer snake or pay a plumber to come out and fix it for you.


Should the gaps around the door casing be filled? I've been removing the architraves and have discovered these gaps as shown in the picture. I'm just wondering if the gaps should be filled, if so with what?

If it is an interior door - the answer is no.   Leave it as.

If it is an exterior door then yes for sure you should you should fill the cracks with insulation.   For anything big enough - over 1/4" maybe - I stuff Roxul insulation in.   Cram it in the gaps really good.

Then once you have the bigger gaps at least as filled as you can get with standard insulation you spray the smaller gaps and the outside parts of the larger gaps with spray foam insulation (cheap big box example is Great Stuff - not a recommendation just an example, however I do recommend Roxul above).   Wait at least an hour - depends on temperatures - for spray foam to expand and slightly harden.   Then scrape off excess foam sticking out.    It is always good practice to get up close on each side and make sure you cannot see to the other side.

An added step that I have seen in cooler climates is to (flashing) tape the "cracks" after insulation.   This for sure adds a wind barrier to the gap and might help with drafty doors/windows.


How to independently switch a GFCI outlet? I would like to add a plug outside where each plug would be independently switched. The use of this is to be able to switch a rope light and a fan separately. This is being added to a new breaker so can be treated independent of everything else.

I know how to do this with a standard outlet, but the GFCI aspect is throwing me for a loop.

The best option I have been able to come up with is to buy a GFCI with a blank face and put it in-line before the switches. Is this the best way to handle this? If so, my follow up question is where to place the GFCI box? Is there any issue with placing it in the attic, or does it need easily accessible?

There are no local codes to follow, but I would like to follow all common codes.

If this is new, I would do this:

Run a wire from the panel to a GFCI outlet in your garage (or wherever -- it may even be in the same box as the switches).

Optionally, you could just use a GFCI breaker for this circuit but these are over $100 more than regular breakers, whereas a GFCI outlet is easily less than $20 in parts

From the LOAD terminals on the GFCI outlet, run power to your switches.
From here, run everything as you normally would: switch hot for each outlet, and run the switched hot, neutral and ground to each switch.


How can I remove or level grooves in thinset mortar from a concrete slab? I'm redoing my bonus room, it's close to 300 sq ft and the floor is all concrete.  Most of the room had carpet which came off easy but about 130 sq ft had ceramic tile that left a lot of thinset grooves everywhere.

If I want to have a finished concrete floor what is the best way to go about leveling the area where the tile was?  SLC or some other product?  The 130 sq ft needs to be level with itself and not with the rest of the room.  It works with the design somehow.

Also, can I just seal the whole room after the leveling is complete?

I was thinking of a grinder like this disc for concrete I have one I bought years ago for my 9" grinder the disc is 12" it will take a entire single bay garage floor surface in about 2 hours. Cheaper than shot blasting and my disc has done 5 or 6 garages and still has a couple left. The trick is to keep the grinder moving in overlapping orbits. the link shows a smaller model that should be able to do the 130 sf in an hour or so.


False roof frame in ceiling Have never figured out what this is. There is basically a false roof frame in the attic. The peak is the opposite direction of the actual roof. As far as I know there hasn't been any major remodeling to this house, definitely not something of the scale of adding a completely new roof. Can anyone tell me what the purpose of this is, or if it was just likely built accidentally and left in place? The area with plywood is over the kitchen as well, so possibly someone was planning on vaulting the kitchen ceiling?

It's not a "roof frame"; it's a truss. Its purpose is to keep the beam below it straight.


How do I repair or replace this fridge water line connector? I had to take the doors off my refrigerator to move it through a doorway. I put everything back together, but the part (picture below) that connects the freezer door's water dispenser to the fridge's water supply now leaks when I try to dispense water.

What is this part called?

Is there a trick to reattaching this piece that would prevent the leak?

If I've damaged the piece, where should I find a replacement?

I've seen that piece called a Water Connector Union Fitting and a Tubing Coupler.

Verify the size of the tubing, but if it's the normal 5/16" to 1/4" it should be easy to get a replacement at any larger hardware store, such as this.  The ones I've seen (that look just like yours) don't require any tools, other than possibly a blade to cut a bit of the tubing off at the end if it's calcified - you just insert the tube.

You might also check to see if your tube just got pulled out a bit - it's possible it doesn't require replacement.


How thick should should wood be to hold 160 to 180 pounds over a four-foot span? I want to paint the walls above my living room stairwell.  The stairs are four feet wide.  I'd like to cover the stairwell with wood boards so I can stand my ladder on the boards to paint the walls overhead.  The length of the boards would be about 4' 5". How thick should my boards be?  How wide should they be?  What type of wood would be the best?  I am about 165 pounds.

Regular framing lumber will do what you need. You will not want to place a ladder on individual 2Xs that make up your scaffolding. The deflection on one 2X will feel enormous when you are on the top of a ladder. 2X4s are cool as long as there are no large knots, and you fill the area. #2 grade 2X needs to be watched for this. Don't even use #3 grade. I have seen 2X6s with 2" knots in them that would render them useless as a walk plank. All said, please be mind full of the condition of the wood used for walk planks. Since you are putting a ladder on all this, unify the surface with a sheet of plywood (1/4" will work in a pinch with a solid fill, if you spaced 2X6s, use 1/2") cut to fit within reason, 3' wide or larger will work and as long as feasible. Believe me, you will not want the ladder to find even one gap big enough for a ladder leg to slip through.


How to temporarily repair a hole in a window pane? I came home yesterday and found a hole in one of my window glass panels.
Looks like a rock hit it from the outside of the house, somehow.

I am going to have to replace the glass panel anyway in another 6 months or so. Meanwhile, I am looking to plug this hole for a little while (primarily so insects dont get in and my air con bills don't go through the roof). So it doesn't have to be pretty.

Would applying clear packaging tape on both sides of the hole, leaving a little gap on one side and filling it up with some sort of resin/epoxy do the trick ?

If so, what type of resin should I be after ? If not, how could I plug this hole ?
The window gets plenty of sunlight

Another option I was thinking was to fill the hole with a clear sealant like http://www.selleys.com.au/sealants/co-polymer/all-clear/

All in all, how do i plug a hole in a glass panel ?

This is a picture (the 'ridges' and 'cracks' are on the inside):

I'd do the packaging tape and call it a day. If the glass is clean it'll hold no problem. If you're really worried, silicone or similar would fill the void between the tape.

Then, start looking for your neighborhood vandal.


DIY Household Wiring on Long Island? I own a house on Long Island and do a lot of DIY projects, some of which are electrical in nature. I often find myself wishing that I could add dedicated outlets in certain places, or run wiring behind walls to lead to new installations. I have training in physics (And electro-magnetism in particular from my college physics classes (As far as basic/intermediate theory anyway, I'm well aware that applying such theoretical knowledge is somewhat different). What options are available for me to be able to do such things as a homeowner (On Long Island-NY) without having to run to an electrician every other week? Are there programs to train and certify that you can do certain things in a code-compliant way, without having to become an electrician? What options are available?

Most jurisdictions allow a homeowner to do their own work as long as it is done up to local Code standards. Check with your local inspection office on Long Island to determine your rights as a homeowner and the process of making alterations to your home according to local Code.

There are many ways to acquire skill in electrical construction.

get a full time job as an Apprentice Electrician
offer to job shadow an Electrician that does residential work to help in order to learn, like an internship, for a short period.
enroll in classes at a community college
read books in the DIY section at your library or buy them for your own library
research your subject online and watch videos on the subject

If you have taken college classes then you know the basic routine of learning a new subject. There is a lot of terminology, theory, and tool and material familiarization to achieve the skills necessary to perform the work. You don't have to have that much skill to add a few receptacles and it is a great place to start. You may decide to make a career of it.

Good luck!


How do I connect the #6 Al wiring from my 40 amp breaker to the #8 Cu wires in my new cooktop? After 35 years of use I decided to please the Mrs. by replacing the old Jenn Air cooktop with a new one. When I examined the existing connection the #6 Al wires were connected to the #8 Cu. wires from the cooktop with regular twist connectors. I am not by any means an expert but I realize this is a no no. Funny thing is after all these years there is not a hint of oxidation on the connections, or any indication of overheating. That aside I want to do things right, but have been unable to find a solution online on connectors big enough to join #6 Al and #8 Cu.  Any advice would be sorely appreciated.

Aluminum is common in this larger wire, and often, connections are made to screw-down lugs. In fact the lugs are often made of aluminum.

So first, check the lugs on the range and see if they're already listed for aluminum.  If not, it may be possible to get lugs that are.

Alternatively, you can get a wide variety of screw-lug splices for aluminum.  That's all an Alumiconn is - an exceptionally small lug.  The above link explains why they work.   This type of screw lug is also the standard wiring method in Europe.  Here are photos of Alumiconn; a larger lug connector (see the resemblance), and the Euro style.   Lastly, here's the split bolt that ThreePhaseEel is referring to.

But the best way to please the Ms. is make sure you have a separate ground wire.  35 years ago, the common practice was to not bother running an equipment safety ground, and simply hijack neutral as ground. This is still permitted in old-work because of lobbying by appliance makers. But it's a terrible idea; if the neutral wire has a problem, the 120V loads in your range pull neutral up to 120V - and since neutral is tied to ground, this energizes the chassis of the machine at 120V.  Touch the range and the sink, and you're dead.   The good news is it's totally legal to retrofit just a ground wire and keep the conductors.


What is your top tip for painting? Simple really - add your best tips for painting (a room, that is).  Ideally one tip per answer for ease of voting.

Take off outlet face plates, unscrew light fixtures, etc. Tape over the outlets and switches. Bag the light fixtures.

I've seen a lot of painted-over receptacles. There's no reason to do that, since it's so easy to do it right.

I've seen edged-in face plates and light fixtures. Again, easy to do it right.


Can you have a laundry to landscape irrigation system with no sewer line? I’m currently purchasing a house where they renovated over where the laundry hookups used to be, so those need to be added from scratch. A plumber looked at the house and said the best location to add the hookups was an outside location for easiest access to the sewer, but it would be very expensive and I’m  not sure about the location.

There’s a carport that’s been recently enclosed, and I think that hookups would work very well there, and rather than having the drainage go to the sewer, I could do a simple irrigation system for the many plants. Is there a problem if there’s no sewer access for the laundry?

You should reference Arizona's 13 "Golden Rules" listed in the Arizona Dept. of Environmental Quality's "Gray Water at Home" brochure. I don't think you need any special permits or permissions to use gray water in Arizona, as long as you abide by those 13 BMPs (Best Management Practices):

Gray Water at Home


Asbestos in older homes I suspect the home I am living in has used some asbestos in is walls. Asbestos causes a serious lung condition in the long run. How can I tell if asbestos was used? What if it is not on the surface of the walls? If it is removed, how do I know some traces do not stay in the air?

Thanks.

Depending on where you live abstos abatement can be a DIY project but to answer your question if not disturbed and or encapsulated with paint there is no risk. The risk comes from disturbing it. Things like popcorn ceiling texture many times had asbestos in it. What is the risk to remove asbestos? If done with the proper equipment and decontamination procedures there is not much risk at all. People worked for years in plants without having problems others maybe just a few exposures were enough. Many building materials used to contain asbestos some of the more common ones are pipe insulation not the pink glass more like a cardboard material, flooring many types of square tiles and even rolled flooring. Siding most was like shingles, and popcorn ceilings as mentioned above. I would not be concerned about living in a home that had it but would have materials tested before doing any remodeling. Then find out what your local code is. In my area if double bagged and taken directly to a land fill not a transfer station it is legal to do your own work. Things like respirators, tyvek suits rubber boots &gloves are some items needed to do it safely.


How do I repair my partially rotted subfloor? I pulled up the tile in my bathroom and discovered that the sub-floor was partially rotted near the bathtub, under the toilet. Based on the tile/mortar, it looks like whoever did this floor last mortared over/into the already damaged subfloor to cover up the fact that it was damaged. It looks, from what I can tell, that the damage goes under the wall.

My questions are:

What's the ideal way to cut out the damaged section? The parts I can get to, I would just use my circular saw with the depth set properly, but for the edges along the tub insert and the wall, (especially the tub edge, which runs perpendicular to the joists), how would I get close enough? I've heard reciprocating saw and toe-kick saw suggested by a few people I know.
Do I need to worry about the damaged subfloor that goes under the wall? If so, how would I go about removing/replacing the damaged subfloor there?

Your plan to use your circular saw with the table set to depth is good. Even if you were to cut tight to the wall and tub, you still aren't getting all the damage, so a short distance out is fine. Personally I'm not a fan of joints right at walls and tubs anyway. I'd rather have an offset.

When you do the repair, float lumber under the remaining damage, with construction adhesive between, wherever possible to support it.

The fact that the damage extends under the wall probably isn't a serious concern if you haven't seen any significant side effects, such as settling or floor damage in the adjacent room. I'd be fixing whatever you can reasonably access and calling it good. It'll be a far cry better than what you have now.

FYI, a "toe kick saw" is actually called an "undercut saw".


How can I remove paper from glass? I tried to remove glass-paper from a window in my house, but when I try it tears. How can I remove it without it tearing?

I seem to remember using Windex.. Long soak, cover with plastic wrap for 30-60 min, scrape carefully with wide (6 to 8 inch) putty knife or drywall blade or wall paper knife.

I was able to save my first new vehicle sticker.


real dimensions of 2 by 4 in inches/centimeters Possible Duplicate:
  Why are 2“x4”'s really 1.5“x3.5”?

Just by looking at a 2 by 4 plank I can tell that it is neither 2in × 4in or 2cm × 4cm. What are its real dimensions? and why?

A dimensional 2x4 is 1.5 inches x 3.5 inches.  The reason being, 2x4 describes the rough dimensions before the boards are milled down to their "dimensional" (flat/even) size.  So you start with a rough 2"x4" board that might be somewhat warped, crooked, rough, etc..  then it is passed through the mill, where it is planed/cut down to the final smooth/flat/hopefully not warped 1.5"x3.5"

Note that this applies to soft woods like pine.  For hard woods, you typically talk in terms of the number of sides that have been Surfaced, and there is less material taken off.  A 2x4 oak board that has been surfaced on all 4 sides, for example, ends up being 1 3/4" x 3 3/4"


How can I connect to an unthreaded galvanized pipe stub for a garden hose? I've got a galvanized pipe in my garage that is used for a garden hose. It's fairly rusty. The end has been cut off so there are no threads left - I need a way to attach something to this pipe so I can put on an elbow and convert it to a garden hose.

A few things:

The pipe runs under a concrete pad so it's not possible to replace it without a major expense
The water doesn't need to be drinkable
Aside from the surface rust, the walls of the pipe are still very much intact

So, I tried using a rubber connector, which almost worked, but I can' clamp it down tight enough to make a 100% seal. I am going to try sanding the pipe next which might solve this, but I don't imagine this rubber connector would last long outside.

Any ideas? Can I re-thread this pipe? Is there some sort of sharkbite I can connect to unthreaded Galvanized? Compression fitting?

They make fittings that we call "Moody Couplings"; this may be a regional or colloquial term but probably evolved from a manufacturer's name.

These are designed for pressure pipe, the size designed for 1/2" galvanized pipe also fits 3/4" copper. These are not designed to be installed in locations where a leak would not be evident/fixable, and they do require a relatively smooth outside surface (but are a bit forgiving in that respect). If you do this, I recommend not covering it up, so you can monitor.


Water sprays out between handle and hose Hey guys, I hope those who read this can help. Water has recently begun spraying out at the handle. I've tried tightening it, and no difference. I thought it was the handle, so I replaced it. The same issue happens with the new one. I thought it was the hose, so I replaced it. The same issue with the new one. I don't know what has changed in the past week for this to happen all of a sudden, but I am tired of getting drenched just watering the stupid plants. Thanks!

The typical hose end (female) also includes a rubber washer that mates with the inside of the fitting and th end of the handle. They wear, they age, they get lost. (should I have used semicolons? That's another SE)

Easily determined to be missing. Look into the hose end. If you see the washer, replace it. If you don't see the washer, hop over to the hardware store of choice and ask for a hose end washer.

The washers are going to be varied in color and some may not have the tiny ears that allow them to listen to water flow. Not really, the ears keep them from falling out, as they will push beyond the threads and hold the washer in place. You probably have to buy three or four or five, use one and lose the rest in the clutter when you need them again. No, wait. That's me.


Why are progressively larger drywall knives used after each mudding pass? I've been researching drywall finishing techniques and have noticed that when a first coat of mud compound is used, a smaller 6 inch taping knife is used... then on the second mud application, a larger knife is used (usually 6 - 12 inch)... then on a third coat, a 10 - 12 inch knife is used.

Is this just personal preference? Why are progressively larger drywall knives used after each pass?

-M

You're spreading the mud out over a progressively larger area so that instead of a small but sharp bump (or dip) in the middle of the joint, you have a much more gradual bump (or dip).  That way, any irregularities in the surface are much less noticeable and can be easily masked by texturing.


Is there an "exposed work" cover plate for keystone jacks/data ports? I've run Cat 5e ethernet cable through 1/2" PVC conduit out to my shed so that I can connect a wifi extender and improve wifi coverage in my backyard. The conduit comes into the shed and elbows up to a location under the roof and away from harm. I'd like to terminate it with an rj45 keystone jack that I can plug my extender into.

With something like mains power, I can connect the conduit to a handy box and then attach a metal cover over my receptacle:

However, I can't seem to find a similar product for keystone data jacks. I tried a regular plastic data port wall plate, but it doesn't seem to sit properly on the handy box as it's made to attach to some other kind of box. I could always take a blank metal cover and use my dremel to cut a custom hole for the keystone jack, but it would be easier and neater if such a product already exists.

I don't know if the exact match you're looking for exists, but you can get decora inserts (for the type of plate in your picture) that fit one, two, or three keystones. It'll be plastic rather than metal, but the plastic will match the keystones while the  metal matches the box.


Stress analysis for a wall mounted table/desk I need to build a wall mounted table/desk. I've done my calculation (full stress analysis) and I've moved all forces to the mounting points but now I'm stuck because I don't know how much would those screws handle.

Well I do know how much would the screw handle but I don't know how much would the wall actually handle, i.e., the structure could fail because the screw may break the wall (just a couple of centimeters around it) then it all fails.

Another good point is that I've seen weak structures (in my POV) that handle so much weight (more than what I'm going to do) with fewer mounting points but I'm too afraid that my first table falls off.

Any advice? Any possible close structure out there that I could find useful that have really good factor of safety (around 3-4)?

About the design: it's simple rectangle of 150cm x 50cm and could be mounted with 3-5 screws to a corner.

Securely screw your mounting hardware into something structural, and it's unlikely you'll "break the wall" unless you're planning on piling thousands of kilograms on your table.

If your structure is made of wood, make sure you screw into the framing members with long screws. Don't just screw into the drywall or plaster, which are not capable of bearing much of a load. If your structure is masonry-based, then use masonry-rated screws. They won't come out and they certainly won't break the wall.


How To Level Uneven Fireplace Hearth Concrete? I am remodeling my fireplace. The hearth and mantle were granite/marble slabs (huge ones cut around the firebox). I removed them from the mantle and hearth with a sledge and chisel, expecting thinset or mastic to be used to attach the hearth stone to the subfloor. Unfortunately, I found this instead:

It's very hard and very uneven. I hardly dent it with a chisel or sledge.

In terms of unevenness, it is 1" from flush at the back (where it meets the wall) and 9/16" from flush at the front (where it meets the hardwood). It's also full of dips and divots and high points. It also appears to be set nearly against the hardwood at the edges, with no spacing for a joint or anything. This home is from the 1950's.

What's the best way to remove and/or level this surface out, so that it is a uniform 3/8" deep from flush?

If there are high points above the desired end level, use a silicon carbide block (you'll find them in the masonry section, with grooves in the face and a big plastic handle on the back - roughly 4x8x2 inches) to grind them down. They work surprisingly well. If the floor you are trying to match is level, then a self-levelling underlayment product (generally a form of gypsum cement) is the typical approach to make the surface level and even. If the floor is not level and you need to match it's non-level-ness 5/16" down you will need to fabricate a screed to run on the floor and level 5/16" below the floor, and use something less self-levelling, like mortar, so it stays put when screeded.


Cleaning large amounts of cat urine from an occupied house? In a fit of altruism, I adopted five stray cats over a period of time.   They came with some problems, which I expected, but two in particular have started something new:  Urinating everywhere.   It's like a contest.   Floors, walls, cabinets, furniture, appliances - everything is a target.

I'm looking for the best method to clean cat urine off of various surfaces - floor laminate & tile, painted drywall, porcelain appliance surfaces, and wooden/pressboard cabinets.    I'm hoping to get through my ownership of these cats without having to completely gut my house when they've finally passed on.

I'm considering a semi-commercial steam-cleaning unit but I don't know if it will (a) destroy things I use it on, and (b) will it actually work?   I'm suspicious of advertising claims like "Cleans everything!"

Any advice?

I thought they were a gimick at first, but I have had great luck with the "urine destroyer" type enzymatic cleaners.  They promise that their "unique enzyme formula" (unique... they all say that) attacks and breaks down the odor causing elements in the urine.  I haven't taken the time to research their claims, but we have an old dog with a bad bladder, and the stuff works well on her accidents.  It really gets rid of the odor.

My suggestion is to get a quality UV light (careful, cheap flashlight units don't work well) and some good enzymatic cleaner and soak all the current stains.  Once that's done (and you have to let it sit and work until its dry), I'd rent a carpet cleaner and use stain remover to handle any remaining visible stains.


How long should I wait between grout application and sealant? I'm about to apply grout to a ceramic-covered part of my bathroom (single step up to the bath tub). I'm using a pre-mixed grout and want to apply Sealer's Choice Gold sealant. The grout should not be exposed to water for at least 7 days (according to instructions) after setting, but when can I apply the sealant?

According to the sealant data sheet, you can seal new grout after 48 hours.

For me I would play it safe if I could (do you have to be able to use this bathroom?), if the grout says no water for 7 days I would wait that long before sealing.  That is probably overly cautious but then I don't get much work done during the week anyway so for me waiting until the next weekend is not a big deal.

After sealing I would wait 24 hours before getting it wet.


Is there any benefit to using outdoor faucet covers if the water to them is shut off? If I shut off the water supply to an outdoor faucet during cold weather, is there much benefit to also covering the faucet using a styrofoam faucet cover or similar? My guess would be no, but maybe the pipes conduct heat well enough that it would still be worth it.

Metal pipes conduct heat very well.
You have another question indicating that you have been insulating pipes.
If a pipe is insulated from the warmth in the house and has a turned off hose bibb sticking out into -10F weather, it's far more likely to freeze if that hose bibb is not insulated from the -10F weather.
In any case, given all your other posts about insulating the house, even if the pipes don't freeze here's a heat leak that's easy to fix that you'll be paying for even if it does not freeze the pipes.


How do I remove this keyed Jacobs drill chuck? I have an old Jacobs keyed drill chuck in my box-o-spares, and I need a drill chuck for my hobby lathe.   I have a suitable tailstock arbour, but the drill chuck has something already installed, and I can't remove it.

The label reads:

JACOBS (r) MULTICRAFT (r) USA

and further around reads

3/8 (10mm) CAP
3/8 24 THD KG

Here's the shot up through the wide-open jaws.  Inside is a large-flanged bolt with a shallow 1/8" hex socket.  A 3mm tool spins in the hole, and a 3.5mm tool does not fit.  Being a metric country, old imperial/SAE/standard/american sizes are less common.  I have exactly one allen key that fits.  As per photos, I've managed to pretzel the shaft by using a vice and pliers to apply torque in either direction.

Is the little bolt going to be conventional right-hand thread or backwards left-hand thread?  It doesn't move in either direction so far.
Will applying heat damage the chuck?  If there's thread-lock, heat may loosen it.
Which two areas should I be applying torque between?  The old arbour, the outer ring, or the hex tool in the small bolt?
Is the old arbour threadded or some kind of taper?  The Jacobs chuck references like http://www.michiganpneumatic.com/customer/mipnto/extrahtm/jacobsref.htm and  http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-removal-guide  do not show how this model chuck is mounted.
LAST RESORT - should I drill out the little bolt ?   No idea what kind of steel its made from, but it didn't distort when I put a 90 degree twist into the allen key, so its likely to be hardened.

I do not need to save the old arbor. There's plenty of apprentice marks on it now from my vice.

I hope to mount it on this morse-taper0:threadded arbour from my Sherline lathe.  The largest flange is 16.48mm in diameter on the old arbour and the MT0 from the lathe has 15.90mm

The chuck moves smoothly so I'm happy it will be good.  I have not bothered cleaning it yet - unless I can remove the old arbour it will be pointless.

Certainly the usual solution would be to order parts, but given the C19 lockdown, I can't even leave my home, so everything needs to be in-stock already.

Final update - I managed to machine something close to a MT0 taper into the old arbour.  I also cleaned up the surface rust from the outside.

This lathe has a head stock that can rotate for tapers, which was a little sketchy given how much stick-out there was.

This shows the rotated headstock, so the taper is very approximately straight.  I didn't have a good solution for calculating the 1.49 degree rotation - will have to do better.  Perhaps a really big protractor?

And here's the newly finished drill chuck in use, drilling a hole in the top of a schrader valve cap... for reasons.

Only downsides - 1) its not stunningly accurate, but has already proven way better than "aim and pray" with a hand drill.   2) the tail is quite long, I did not want to remove the center hole on the end, so it only gives 20mm of travel on the tailstock.


Is voltage too high in C wire going to thermostat? I've managed to add a C wire to my thermostat. I then decided to check the voltage between the R and C wires, and find that it read as 27.8 volts, not the  24 volts it was supposed to be. Could this cause problems? I do have a Lux thermostat which is having trouble with it's ambient temperature reading, but I'm not sure if it's because of the voltage or something else.

It's a bit high but whether it will be a problem depends on your thermostat and how it tolerates the high voltage.  Also consider that the furnaces controller board is also receiving this voltage.

Before you start anything else, check to see if your thermostat can be calibrated and complete this step first.

To rule out the higher voltage as the cause of the faulty temperature reading, find another transformer that gives you close to 24VAC and connect it to R and C - basically use that power source instead of the transformer in the furnace.  If the temperature reading is correct now then you have verified the cause.   If other transformers are also giving higher than expected voltages, check your input line voltage - if that is high, so will the transformer output.

If line voltage is OK and other transformers are OK then you can replace the transformer in your furnace; it's a pretty straight forward replacement usually. Just remember to turn off the power to your furnace first!


How to fix placement of over-stove exhaust The microwave over my stove expired. I pulled it down, and discovered that the ductwork to attach the fan to the outside world was misplaced: it's about two inches to the right of where it should be. The builders applied tape and sheet metal screws to attach the flap and duct to the old microwave out of line with the fans.

I'd rather not produce a repeat of that charming bit of 'craftsmanship'd. Can someone help me plan a proper repair? There's a round duct that goes out through the wall of the house, and it's bonded to the rectangular duct that you can see in the picture. I've pulled all the sheet-metal screws and tape to get a look at what's going on. Hypothetically, I'd want to somehow detach this 'box' from the 'pipe', and mount a new one with a suitably asymmetric hole for the pipe to compensate for the failure of the center of the pipe to match the center of the stove. I don't know how the two pieces of ductwork were connected to start with, and I'm loath to attack what I've pictured here with a sawzall (or equivalent) without a clear plan of what I'll do thereafter.

The best possible idea is to find a good sheet metal place and have them build you something beautiful and custom. It wouldn't be cheap, but shouldn't be outrageous, unless they have to come and visit (which they shouldn't, if you can make a good drawing).

Alternately, get about double the amount of tin ducting that would ordinarily go into such a project and start hacking away with abandon. Use good metal tape (not duct tape -- eww!), screws where appropriate, and wear gloves. Then -- and this is where I give away all my trade secrets -- hide that mess with a 3 sided box made out of plywood or something nice you've got lying around.


What is the right drill bit for concrete or stone walls? I'm living in an old apartment, circa 1945. The walls seem to be made of an incredibly hard stone or concrete. Any recommendations on the right drill bit type to use? My standard set doesn't even make a dent.

For drilling stone or concrete you'll want to use a good quality masonry bit, and a good rotary hammer drill.

As Shirlock points out quality is important here, so you don't want to skimp on the tools when drilling stone or concrete.  You'll want to look for a carbide tipped masonry bit, as these tend to last a bit longer than the typical masonry bit. You'll also want to make sure the bit is rated to be used in a hammer drill, since a standard bit can easily be destroyed by the hammer action of the drill (causing personal/property damage and/or death).

If you're doing a small job and don't want to spend the money on expensive tools, you should be able to rent what you need from a local home center (Home Depot, Lowes).

A hammer drill is necessary when drilling stone or concrete, since grinding away the material with a standard drill would take far too long.  A hammer drill works similar to a normal drill, but with an added mechanism that "hammers" the bit while also spinning it.  The idea is that the hammer action will break up material at the bits tip, then the bit will grind up the loose material and carry it away along it's threads (clearing the hole).

To reduce heat on the bit you'll want to drill at a slower speed, and pull the bit out of the hole from time to time to clear the debris.  Remember the hammer action can be brutal on the bit, so you'll want to use a quality bit and keep it cool to reduce the possibility of shattering it.


Help powering new light and switch off existing switch I have a 4 season room with a new light. I ran a wire from this light to a 2-gang box in the room, and ran a romex wire from this new box to an existing box in the kitchen (they are on the opposite sides of the same wall), and I'm trying to power the new light switch off existing power coming into the kitchen box.

I am using Legrand Adorne paddle switches, and wonder if I can use the switch in my diagram. On the current switch, A1 is connected to HOT and B1 is connected to 1-POLE. I originally tried to follow this diagram but it did not work as expected. Thanks in advance!

Stop.  You can't just grab any old wire.

You need two specific wires: (always) hot, and neutral.  And they need to come from the same cable.  This point is very important for not setting up a current loop, causing wire vibration, eddy current heating, and arc failures.

Now, switches which have a white wire are no help.  Normal switches don't take neutral, so when you see a white wire going to a plain switch, that wire is not neutral (and should have been marked, but the installer shortcutted as usual).  So the cables going to those switches can be disregarded.

I see two switches with no white wires, and that means they probably have a real neutral somewhere in the box.  You should see a wire-nutted bundle of all-white wires.  So you need to find that bundle, and follow those whites back to their cables.  Among the other wires in one of those cables, you should be able to find an always-hot. If not, you're out of luck, and will have to tap somewhere else.


Samsung dryer starts spinning after a few seconds with accompanying noise When I turn on the dryer, I first hear a whirring noise for a few seconds, with the drum not moving, then a "bang" or a "bump" and the drum starts spinning. Clothes are still drying.

Do you think something is going to fail soon? I can order the part(s) in advance.

Most dryers have a drive belt that runs from the drum to the motor to a tension pulley. It your belt is worn, at start up, the motor would spin and then grab the belt and spin the drum. Check the belt. you can usually access it by removing the back panel of the dryer. Good luck.


Adding Locks to Antique French Door I have a set of 1927 french doors that are 18" wide and have a built-in astragal -- measuring ~7/8" wide and ~1/4" deep -- on both doors. The astragal narrows to about a 1/4" where the locks used to be, allowing room for the former lock.
I'm restoring the doors and I'd like to add a lockset to the active door (passive door is secured with slide bolts). I'm wondering if I should try and add a modern mortise lock to the door by removing whatever filler is in the old hole or attempt to add a modern deadbolt and knob in.
My concerns with using a modern deadblot/knob is that the distance between the base plate and the strike plate will be too great and the knob's latch won't be long enough to securely catch.
Here's a picture of the door edges. The original strike plate is still there, but the hole where the mortise lock used to be has been filled.
How would you proceed?
As a side note, I've considered replacing the doors with a new set, but no one stocks french doors in this size. When installers come out, they all suggest adding a full size entry door, but a full size door would open too far into the room and be awkward in the space. Also, I just like the look of the smaller doors. The only other replacement option I've thought of would be to use a pair of 18" sidelights and turn them into french doors.

Those types of latches for had specific shapes to follow the door edge profiles. You may be able to find a new latch that will work, but I would suggest shopping for an antique latchset that will suit your needs and have it reconditioned by a locksmith.
After that is accomplished, then cut out what is needed to get the new or reconditioned latchset to work. Don't just remove what was filled in, although it may be needed anyway, but some filler may be able to remain, since the new lock may have different cutouts needed. Then again, in making the new mortices (cutouts) the filler may fall out anyway. Just as well, if it does, it can be reset properly and more permanently.


Will a feed through on and off switch work with a fluorescent light? We have a fluorescent light mounted above the kitchen sink.  The on/off switch is on the light fixture and it's hard to reach.  Will a feed through on and off switch work with a fluorescent light?

Yes, that should be just fine. Most switches on fixtures - whether a rocker or pushbutton or pull chain - simply switch the hot wire closed (on)/open (off). If that's the case, you can install an ordinary switch in the hot wire going to the light.
However, I have had some old fluorescent light fixtures with a pushbutton switch where the switch would be held on for a couple of seconds to start the light - literally triggering the fluorescent starter. On most fluorescent fixtures, the starter and ballast all magically work together, in which case an external switch will work just fine.


Can I use #8 copper to replace a #6 ground wire? I need to replace the ground wire that runs from the panel to the rod embedded in earth. it looks like the existing wire is 6 g. i'm having trouble finding that gauge and wonder if I can use 8 gauge instead.

Depends on the local code. Instead of dropping to 8 you could go bigger, assuming 6 gauge was to code in the first place.


Adding a new outlet in a old house I want to add a new outlet to a old circuit I have old wiring and would like to add new wires the only wire they had at the store was 8-3. What will this do if anything my house was built in 1962. I do have a breaker box not fuses. And it is a very short run is it better to take the old wire to the new receptacle and then jump to the old receptacle or does it matter? How can I tell what my old wire is and whether I have a neutral

Thank you everyone. After many responses I drove over to a bigger town and got 10-2 and used a junction box. To answer questions I was wiring in a 15 amp receptacle with 2 USB charging ports in the old receptacle spot and running a new receptacle behind my TV to hide all the wires. I did notice that my Circuit breaker what's a 20 amp breaker with 15 amp receptacles. I plan to change that in the future. We will be burying 400 amp to the home soon and adding a 22kw Generac so I want to have his many circuits on the back up as possible.

8-3 copper is totally inappropriate for a normal branch circuit in the US. What kind of store has only 8-3 ?! Where are you located? Is this single phase two leg 240 & 120 V as in the US or 240 V single leg as in the UK?

For one thing 8 AWG  will not fit on the screws of ordinary receptacles sold in the US. #10 AWG will barely fit on receptacles at least in aluminum. I have 10-2 + gnd aluminum in my original 20-A cicuits. The 20-A circuits I added are all in copper 12-2 + gnd.

The most you should use in copper is 12-2 + ground  (12-3 + gnd to feed a split receptacle from two different breakers on different legs). If this is a 15-A circuit use either 14-2 + gnd or 12-2 + gnd, but the former is a lot easier to work with. If a 20-A circuit, then you must use 12-2 + gnd.


Is my contractor doing a botched up job installing the soffit Is my contractor doing a botched up job installing the soffit with staples?

Vinyl expands and contracts as temperatures change. As long as the vinyl can move as required, staples could work, although not my choice, roofing nails driven by hand is my preferred method of fastening. If one leg of the staple is in the slotted hole and the other beyond the edge, and it is not tight to the plywood so there is a little room for movement, the staples will work. If the leg of the staple is IN the vinyl, it is locked in place, and will not move as needed. The very short pieces that are nailed in that way can be the exception, since they are so short, movement will be negligible. Also for what it is worth, one staple can be driven to lock an end or middle in place, as long as the rest of the staples allow the vinyl to move elsewhere.

Just as a mention, why is the installer putting up vented soffit when the backer is solid. The perforations will be of no use. Typically the soffit goes directly to the framing if the soffit needs to be vented....


Should I change the routing of the return air flex duct? I've been in the attic quite a bit before the summer, and every time I look at the duct work, I keep wondering if some crazy/lazy person did it. For example, I have a flex duct running from the main trunk that does a 180 degree turn around a roof truss simply because the register box opening faces 'away' from the trunk.

The photo below shows the way the return duct is routed, bent around a roof truss.

My question is, should I reroute it so it goes straight up? That is, where the yellow arrow is pointing.

To explain a bit further, the green rectangle is an outside corner, and there is a half wall (from the perspective of the attic) that runs in the direction of the red arrows, up to the point where the duct lies on top of the ceiling.

The diagonal red arrows also happen to point to the sad insulation job that is clinging on for dear life against the drywall. I plan to fix this at some point.

To continue the first question, if I were to run it straight up, what would be the best way to insulate the wall (and/or duct together)?

For reference, this is a photo of the living space interior of that attic area.

I think they ran the duct longer to try and avoid it collapsing coming over the edge. To me it looks to be partly collapsed going around the support. To improve the flow I would add a 90 and shorten the flex. This is not hard to do. Get a 90 and 4 zip ties long enough to go around the flex. Use a razor knife to cut the flex and a pair of pliers to cut the wire slip the inner duct on the 90 and zip tie on both sides. Now pull the insulation over the 90 and zip tie in place. If you were able to remove several feet there should be enough insulation to cover the 90. This will eliminate the possibility of the flex pinching off The air flow and with a shorter flex run less resistance so more air flow.


Structural cross joists and load-bearing walls (century home) I have a friend that recently took possession of a century home. Its a 4 plex and He was told it was an old school house (at least at some point in time). We’re experienced weekend warriors but definitely not experts. We’re doing some renovations to one of the units on the main floor, mainly looking to tear out a couple of walls that cut up the living space.

Anyways we have most of the demo work completed, opening up the walls/ceilings uncovered strange cross joisting unlike anything I’ve seen in my pervious experiences. The joist are true 2x4s and crisscross with each other. Hopefully the photos help.

The walls we’re looking to remove really don’t appear to be load bearing in anyway, as the majority of the studs don’t tie into the joists above. That being said with the cross joisting construction and the appearance that almost nothing is truly load bearing leads me to believe that everything is load bearing?

Its difficult to flush out a true question here but I guess I’m just after information about this type of construction, its name or any information I can get my hands on, and thoughts on  whether these walls do provide any load bearing properties.

Pre-demolition, this could have been a "double floor" or "double framed floor". If you look up the wikipedia article on floor joists(I would link directly, but I don't have enough rep), it gives you a bit more context. The intention being one set is for the ceiling, and the other is for the floor above.
Alternatively, with century homes in particular, you can get quirks because of the wood sources - this could just be strapping with what was available. Modern buildings use 1x4 (or 1x3)
].
To answer the question "is this load bearing?", as with similar questions I think the best answer is get a professional in to determine that.


How can I disconnect rusted tail piece mount from popup flange? I am experiencing a water leak from some sort of waste trap piece below my bathroom sink. This piece sits directly above the U trap.
Here's a photo.

This trap looks unusual, in that it seems a bit different from most of the wider traps. Any pointers on what the name/make of this piece is, or where what replacement part to look for?
UPDATE:
I've unscrewed and detached mostly everything but am having a hell of a time trying to actually remove the popup drain assembly. I've updated my post above to show whats going on. I've tried the pliers trick to stop the pop up flange from moving but no luck so far.

Am I doing something wrong?
Should i be trying to unscrew the tail piece mount or the tail piece itself?
If not, are there any tools/strategies that I may not be using that would help loosen the gridlock?

I feel like I must be doing something wrong. The channel lock pliers I cannot hold fast enough and are stripping the grooves a bit.
Is this the correct strategy?

You need a spud wrench to hold the upper drain flange (which is threaded to the lower drain assembly) so you can unscrew the drain from the flange.
Cheap ones (which are hard to hold) look like this:

Good ones (which are easy to hold with a large wrench) look like this:

And like it or not, you need a helper to either hold from above or turn from below whilst you are doing either.
NOTE- there are many tools colloquially called "spud wrench", these are plumbers' spud wrenches.
NOTE- I have substituted for a spud wrench in a pinch by sliding my ChannelLock plier handles down into the strainer from above, as a holding tool.
NOTE- sometimes none of this works, that's when I use a mini-hacksaw to cut relief slots around that upper drain flange and break it off.