How can I attach plywood window covers without damaging the trim or shingles? I have an oceanfront cottage and have "boarded up" the ocean-facing windows each winter before closing up for the season.

In the past I just used wood big enough to totally cover the window and frame, and would just use wood screws to fasten it directly to the cedar shingle siding.

This obviously leaves holes from the screws. This summer we just re-did the cedar shakes and window trim, and put new paint on the whole thing. It looks great now.

My question is - what is the best way to board up my windows so as to inflict the least damage to the trim/shngles/paint?  Open to any suggestions that won't break the bank.

How about permanently mounting lift-off hinges or something similar to the window frames, and using the mating part on the plywood to secure the boards to the windows?


Wire Size 100amp sub panel? Merry Christmas!

After lengthy research, still looking for some input.

New sub panel in basement. Thinking Square D QO Plug-on neutral. Neutral and ground isolated, adding 2 ground bus bars - bonded to case. (HOM2448M100PC)
Basement sub panel fed from and directly below 150a sub panel in garage, about 15 feet.
Garage is dry-walled but not finished yet and would be easy to cut, basement not yet dry-walled.
Thinking to fuse it at 90a @ garage sub-panel
Looking at 310.15(b)(16) @ 75 degree Celsius column, given that all terminals (and wiring) are rated for 75'C (is the basement panel? are the breakers?)

Question 1: Am I correct by looking at that table and column. And if so, can I use 2-2-2-4 AL SER with no conduit from garage panel to basement panel?

Question 2: Can I place basement panel in framing between a finished and unfinished space? (i.e. inside a utility room between wall of living space). 2x4's and back of panel would butt up to drywall of living space.This wall is not insulated.

I am in Colorado.

I'd upsize to 125A if I were in your shoes

Given the short length of your wire run (20-odd feet of SER should be sufficient), there's really not much reason to penny-pinch by using an odd-sized feeder; as a result, I'd go up to 125A as larger two-pole breakers require 4 spaces in the feeding panel instead of 2, and you won't be able to make full use of a 225A feeder and subpanel anyway, which is the next size larger as far as main lug panels go.

This means that you'll be using 1/0-1/0-1/0-2 aluminum SER cable instead of the 2-2-2-4 you were originally planning on, and a 125A feeder breaker instead of the (admittedly odd sized) 90A feeder breaker in your original plan.  If conduit is called for (which isn't likely, given that the chances of something between studs being considered subject to physical damage are rather low), then you can use a 1.5" EMT with 3 1/0AWG aluminum wires inside it instead.  In any case, the 75° column in the ampacity tables is what governs for feeders in realistic work, see 110.14(C) point 3 for details.

If you want to use a larger conduit, by the way, that is fine; IRC R602.6.1 would require strapping for a bore larger than 1.75" (50% of the 3.5" actual width of a 2x4 top plate) through the top plate of a load-bearing wall, but even that is not needed for a non-load-bearing partition.

You have the wrong panel picked out anyway

Given that your subpanel is in the same building as the panel feeding it, there is no need for your new subpanel to have a main breaker; furthermore, it's a Homeline, not a QO, so you'll have to keep that in mind when populating it with breakers since the two breaker types are very much not interchangeable!

With all of the above taken into account, and going for as many spaces as we can so you don't have to rip it out and replace it later, we can use a HOM3060L125PGC if you can find it, or a HOM2448L125PGC if the former is not available.  Both of these panels support the full 125A capacity of the feeder I am suggesting, have main lugs (since a main breaker is not needed here), and come with factory-fitted ground bars (obviating the need to buy ground bar kits and install them).

Having a panel flush-mounted into an unfinished wall is fine, even if it looks odd

There is no Code issue with flush-mounting a panel into an unfinished or partially-finished wall; just keep in mind that it may be necessary to unmount and remount the panel when the wall is finished so that the outer portion of the panel cover fits correctly over the drywall. (This weighs against using conduit for the feeder, BTW.)

Last but not least: TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There is one other thing you'll need to take into account, and that is that the set-screw type mechanical lugs used on circuit breakers and loadcenters need to be torqued to the values labeled on the breaker or loadcenter for that size wire in order to perform reliably over the long-haul.  This was added to Code as a requirement with 110.4(D) in the 2017 NEC; even if your AHJ has not adopted the 2017 edition, using an inch-pound torque wrench and/or torque screwdriver to tighten the lugs to their specification torques is a good idea anyway, lest your electrical system lose you the race!


Tips for drilling two directly opposite holes in a square steel tube with a step bit and no drill press? First off, I apologize if this has been asked before, I searched for similar questions before posting but couldn't find one.
I want to drill a 10 mm hole straight through a square steel pipe (20 mm sides, ~1.5-2 mm thickness). The limiting factor is that I'm using a step bit, so I can't just drill through both sides at once (because then I'll end up with a much larger hole on one side), and that I don't have access to a drill press, especially with the Corona situation.
Other than trying to do a really good job when measuring where to put the holes (with a combination square or something), are there any tips for aligning the holes as close to perfect as possible? I'm trying to DIY a derailleur hanger alignment tool  for my home bicycle workshop, and the error margin at the end with the holes gets multiplied many times over at the end of the tool, where the measurement is made.

A Black and Decker Drill Guide #71-055 may be what you need. While no longer made they are available used. I have had mine for 30+ years. The various profiles allow drilling squarely through most shapes. The bonus is if drilling overhead the cup will capture and chips or debris.


Is it safe to use old wood lath from demolition as firewood? I removed  two room's worth of walls and ceiling horsehair plaster and wood lath from a home built in 1890. Would the plaster or paint used in those days cause the wood to release any toxins when burned? I'm wondering if the material can safely be used for firewood.

There might also be asbestos in the plaster and contaminating the lath.

Did you have the wall tested prior to demolition?  (I'm guessing no)  You may have to be very careful with this material and possibly apply a complex and detailed cleaning of the site to render it safe, sorry to say.

Here's to hoping that it doesn't have asbestos...  In USA the use of asbestos in plaster walls is uncommon prior to 1920, however the wall may have been re-plastered after the house was built.

If you do decide to burn it and it has asbestos or lead in it you may be violating health or pollution laws in your area, but at least make sure that everyone is a long ways away from the fire. (It may be better, eg. safer and more law-abiding, just to hire the appropriate disposal experts and have them clean the site and dispose of the waste)


is my baseboard heating unit malfunctioning I have a "finished" room in my basement that is maybe 10' x 16'.  It has a baseboard heater that is perhaps 10-12' running along one wall.  My problem is that right now the room's temperature will not rise above 60 degrees.  I'm asking for help in diagnosing why.

Specifically, I'm wondering how to know if my baseboard heater is malfunctioning.

Here are some possibly-helpful bits of info - please let me know what else would be useful.

the rest of the basement is unfinished, and that baseboard heater is the only one on the basement zone
the supply and return pipes into the baseboard heater are very hot to the touch, and I can feel some heat coming from the baseboard heater
My zone valve control (a Taco ZVC403) has indicator lights that indicate that the thermostat is calling for heat and that the zone valve is fully open
Previously, I have had that room as warm as 68 degrees (I don't recall trying to heat it warmer).  I don't recall the last time I heated it above 60 degrees, but it may well have been before winter.
The basement walls are uninsulated; two of the "finished" room's walls are these bare, uninsulated walls.

My theory is simply that because it's cold outside right now (I live in Maine), I am losing a lot of heat through the exterior walls (and to the rest of the basement), and 60 degrees happens to be the most that the small heater is capable of heating that room to.  But I'd like to be able to rule out a malfunctioning baseboard.

If the pipe is very hot going in and out of the baseboard then its probably not a problem with the boiler.  You can try turning the water temperature up on the boiler. They normally go up to 200 but i would not go higher than 180 for efficiency.  Every boiler is a little different on how to do this.  Also if you have exposed pipes or radiators it should be lower to avoid burns

It is most likely something in that basement that changed letting in more cold air or its just  being extra cold outside.


Paint vs polyurethane durability For an indoor project that is likely to get bumped, knocked, etc. (e.g., door or window casing, cabinets, built-in bookshelves, etc.), should one expect that a good quality paint will resist chipping and peeling as about the same as a good quality stain sealed with a good quality polyurethane?

The specific circumstance we are evaluating is a kitchen island which has a cabinet base. The base is pine, and we're debating between either white paint, or white stain sealed with polyurethane.

However, it is highly probable that this item will be subject to a lot of bumps, knocks, and so forth. We're less concerned about the difference in appearance between the two finishes, and more interested in choosing the finish that will be the most durable, and the most resistant to chipping, peeling, and getting easily soiled.

Polyurethane is basically liquid plastic. It forms a hard shell, which will protect the wood underneath. Since pine is considered to be a soft wood, the poly will add some impact resistance. The poly itself may chip, but the wood underneath will be better protected than regular latex paint.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the durability difference between paint and polyurethane. They are both quite durable, and should last roughly around the same amount of time.

The thing with woodwork is that once it is painted, it will always be painted. If the wood is nice enough to be stained, then I would go this route.


How can I wire 7 outdoor posts correctly? I've seen a few posts on how to wire a single post/column for lighting outdoor but I can't find anything that relates to multiple posts/columns.

I have 7 posts/columns outdoor and I'd like to add lighting at the top of each post. These posts/columns will be used with a fence (in case you are trying to visualize this).

So far this is what I understand I need to do in a nutshell:

Dig a trench of 18" and bury wiring with PVC piping
Use existing outdoor GFCI and extend your wiring from that outlet as long as you are not overloading the circuit
Use a wiring hub that runs power from the outlet being used to the main hub input and then have separate outs from the same hub running to each lamp that will go to each post/column

Here is where I need some guidance:

What is a good hub to use outdoor? When searching online, I only find extension cords hubs. This isn't what I need. Does it have a different/formal name?
My run from the outlet at the house to the hub by the posts/columns would be about 60 feet. If I position the hub midpoint of all posts/columns, I have about 40 feet each way (left or right) to the furthest point to supply cable to each lamp on each post/column. Do I need some sort of amplifier so that I don't experience voltage drop? If so, which one and how do I introduce this?
I've read that looping or daisy chaining just makes it more complex trying to maintain adequate voltage (evenly) on all post so a hub is recommended. Is this correct?

I have a basic understanding of electrical and wiring. I've done some smaller projects at home so tackling this isn't a concern. I'd just like to know what are the right components I need to ensure this is done correctly

Since you are planning on using PVC conduit (this is different than PVC pipe) I would use thwn wire, (most thhn wire is dual rated as thwn or for use in a damp wet location).  You would run your conduit to each fixture and daisy chain all the fixtures. I have seen folks run 1 pipe up and 1 back down to make the wire pull easier but I just use a T and 1 pipe to each fixture both methods are legal I think a single pipe looks cleaner.


Identifying wires in strange configuration US 120v system.

I’m replacing a light fixture in my living room. When i took the fixture off, the two wires broke. Therefore I can’t identify how the fixture was previously wired.

There are five wires in the ceiling box. ALL OF THEM ARE BLACK. Two of them are nutted together and are far up inside the box, and I’ve determined these are unrelated to my work, probably just a hot using the box as a junction. The other three are the confusing part.

I used a tone tracer to identify the hot wire coming from the switch. I double checked this with power on - contactless sensor senses power in the wire when the switch is on and not when it’s off. Ok, so now I know which is the hot.

Now this is the part I’m confused about. First I need to add that I have a switched floor outlet in the living room. Since I pulled the fixture out and all the wires came loose, this outlet is dead even if the switch is on. Contactless sensor DOES detect voltage at the switch AND at the outlet even if the switch is off. (Sensing at the outlet is irrelevant though since it’s a split outlet and thus I’m just sensing the always on socket.)

There are two more wires in the ceiling box. One has no voltage sensed at all in any configuration, so I’m reasonably sure this is the neutral. But the other wire always has voltage on it, EVEN if the wall switch for the floor outlet is off and the switch for the ceiling light is off. Nothing in the ceiling box changes when I flip the floor outlet switch, but devices on the floor outlet do not work.

I obviously know that the hot of my new fixture goes to the hot I found coming from the ceiling light switch. What I’m not sure of is what to do with the other two wires + the fixture neutral. My hypotheses for what’s going on are:

The second live wire is actually the neutral for the extra floor outlet and it should be tied to the wire with nothing sensed by the contactless tester. However this is concerning because this wire reads live EVEM when the wall switch is off.
The second live is a hot that is meant to lead to the switch for the floor outlets. Also doesn’t make sense since the switch always has voltage even with that wire disconnected in the box I’m working in.
The wire with no volts is actually the hot for the floor outlet and thus it reads no volts. Also unlikely because of #2.
Voltage testers can sense voltage on isolated neutral wires and perhaps #3 is indeed the case. But in this scenario, shouldn’t the switch be turning another wire on and off? This leads me to believe #1 is the most likely.

What would be the next things to test to verify my hypotheses?

I fully intend to mark the wires! The previous homeowner was a DIYer who clearly cut corners and did shoddy work.

You've already identified switched-hot.  The old lamp would have needed it, of course.

The old lamp would have also needed neutral, and you've identified one of those.

Lamps generally do not want/need always-hot, but if there are 2 or more cables in a lamp box, fair chance always-hot is in there.  Since the lamp doesn't tap it, it's most likely that undisturbed 2-wire bundle in the back.  Typically you have two always-hot's in a lamp box when always-hot is also being carried onward to other points of service - outlets and the like.

Generally always-hots and always-neutrals show up in pairs.  E.G. AH+N from supply and AH+N onward.  You have two always-hots, so you might expect two neutrals. (All neutrals are always).   You don't have 2 neutrals identified (yet).

So what's left?  A wire that reads "hot".  And this wire was disconnected as part of removing the old light, which makes it very likely a switched-hot or neutral.

When you run through the possibilities -- a multi-wire branch circuit's second "hot" is out; that wouldn't be connected to the lamp.

Switched-hot onward to another lamp would leave this box awfully starved for neutrals - you need a neutral supply, a neutral for onward power, and supposedly a neutral for this other lamp!   And you don't have another lamp.

Now, when an onward circuit is partially disconnected -- obviously if you disconnect the hot, the hot reads 0V.  But if you disconnect the neutral, current moves through the loads and tries to return through the neutral, and it can't.  So it lifts the neutral up to line voltage.  Or phantom voltage lifts it somewhat.

That is exactly what we are seeing.  And it covers the neutral we'd expect as the two neutrals for the two always-hots.     So, join the mystery wire to the known neutral and the lamp; you should be all set.


Metal Junction Box screwed to wood - same screw used for grounding My brother has a metal pancake box directly screwed into a 2x4. That same screw used to fasten the box is also being used to ground the box.

i.e metal pancake box screwed into the wood also has the ground wrapped around it.

I know ground screws inside the box must be green - I am more concerned over whether or not what I described above is safe.

Screws that mount the box to the framing are not allowed to be used for grounding. There is a separate hole in most of the pancake boxes for a grounding screw, a 10/32 thread and you can pick them up at your home store. If there is conduit terminating in the box, that might serve as a ground.


Foul smell in my bathroom when I run water anywhere in my house I have a foul sewer smell in my bathroom, it get stronger when water is ran anywhere in the house. But the smell stays in the bathroom. We have checked the sink pipes nothing in there. We used rid-x but nothing change. I tried bleach down the drain still nothing changed. The smell is not in any other sink, just the one. I need to know if this sewer smell is bad on health? I have my 80 year old mother here, and don't want her or anyone to get sick until we find out where it's coming from. What can I do to get this smell out of my bathroom? What could possibly be the problem?

First I'd want to confirm that it's really from the waste system (as I would think).  When there's no smell, plug another sink and run water to put some in the basin.  Stop and verify still no smell.  Then drain the basin and see if the smell arises.  If that happens, you can be sure it's related to the waste system.

Can you plug the sink temporarily (both the drain and the overflow)?  If you do so, does that prevent the smell?  It would be nice to isolate it to a single location.  Is there a tub/shower?  Could it be coming from there?

If it's from the sink, I'd think there's either improper venting or incorrect p-trap in the bathroom.  Can you show a picture of the pipes under the sink?  If it's not set up correctly, then water running down the pipes from elsewhere can siphon the water from the p-trap, allowing sewer gases to escape the drain.


How can I turn off the power so I can safely replace a fixture? I have old outdoor spotlight near door that needs fixture replaced.  How do I shut electricity off to the fixture?  My fear is, I will be electrocuted.  :)

Any help appreciated.

Tom, if the spotlight still lights up, it might be sufficient to just turn off the light switch leading to the fixture. That's assuming the power enters the switch box, and there's only a hot and neutral (and ground) going to the light fixture. Tape the light switch in the off position and tell everybody to leave it alone until you're done.  ;-)

Or you can just flip breakers until the light turns off.

But even then, you have to consider the possibility that there is still power at the light fixture. Who knows what might have been wired through that same box by who-knows-who in the past?

You really need to get yourself an electrical tester. If you get the standard old solenoid-type tester (the old "wiggy" style--"Wiggy" is actually a trademark from 1918) then you have to expose the wires so you can touch the test leads directly to them.

You can pull the light fixture away from the wall or ceiling without disconnecting the wires, to give you access to the wires for testing.

If you don't want to have to disconnect wirenuts and expose the metal wires, you can get a non-contact electrical tester which can detect current from the electromagnetic field from outside the wire insulation (these units work because a weak but harmless electrical circuit is still completed between you and the ground--electromagnetism is pretty amazing).

Get something like one of the images below, which you can find for anywhere from $5 to a few hundred. Play with the tester a little bit with a couple of live circuits, or with the cord on a plugged-in lamp or something until you feel confident about how it works, then try your circuit breakers one by one until you can't detect any live wires in the light fixture box.

Then (trust me), tape the breaker in the off position with a note on it so nobody turns it back on to make toast while you're handling the wires.


Unable to remove shower handle due to stripped allen screw I have a shower handle similar to this one and need to replace the shower cartridge.
I'm using this video but am getting stuck on the first step trying to use my allen wrench to take off the handle. From what I can tell I think the screw is stripped (I shouldn't be surprised, from what I can tell the original builders did everything they could to make it impossible to replace/fix things)
Does anyone know of a way to remove that screw, preferably with the least amount of destruction possible and without having to buy too many new tools. I would say my general level of comfort for home improvement projects is pretty beginner still.
This is the best picture I was able to get. It almost looks like I need a special tool, but can't find anything on the Delta website saying that.

I had this problem on a moen.  The plumber cut through the plastic cartridge between the handle and the valve and was then able to replace the cartridge and re-use the handle.
For a stripped allen/grub screws I've had decent luck with micro grabit.


How can I attach closet shelving supports where there are no studs, I would like to put in some shelves similar to what is in this youtube video in a hallway closet.  The length of each shelf is around 42".

I planned on using the 2x2s for support per the video.  The only problem is that the back wall where the longer 2x2 would be supporting the shelf has no studs.  The drywall is directly against the cinderblock firewall between my unit and my neighbor's (I live in a condo).  I assume it is attached via construction adhesive because that is what was in my half bath as well.

My question - could I just screw the back 2x2 at each end to the studs in the side walls of the closet and maybe throw some construction adhesive between the 2x2 and the drywall for added support?

The side supports will be screwed into studs at each end and are approximately 12" in length.

Any advice is appreciated.

A 2x2 glued to sheetrock won't support any weight.

Instead, go through the sheetrock and install a masonry anchor in the cinderblock. Put a screw through the 2x2->sheetrock->cinderblock


How best to cut & tie into cast iron pipe I have a 2" section of ductile cast iron pipe that's in the way of a framing repair job. This pipe needs to move.

The cast iron dates to the original construction, 1938. As was customary at the time, the cast iron was joined with oakum and pure metallic lead.

In the middle is a modern retrofit that's horrible, with no actual seal between a plastic retrofit and the 1938 cast iron.  This section serves a single modern sink and dishwasher.  Fixing the modern plumbing is no problem.  How do I cut & tie into the 1938 cast iron?  I have heard that removing the lead is both hard, and will send lead chips down the sewer.

My local library offers a compression snap cutter for cast iron pipes.

I would consider cutting the whole mess out at the bottom end and connect A new “ABS”  black pipe with a “no hub”
 it is a rubber connector with bands on each end to tighten then tie into the upper area .
This will be much easier than packing oakum and poring the lead on top;  everything can be fitted together prior to gluing so you know it is right where you want it then glue and know u fixed the mess.


How can I remove the screw from a double demountable hinge? I am replacing the double demountable hinges on my cabinets. Most of them are a breeze, but two of the narrow cabinets don't have the cutouts; instead, they just removed the plate and screw from the hinge, kind of making it single-demountable. They then just used a wood screw to attach the hinge directly into the cabinet.

However, I can't figure out how to actually get the screw out of the cabinet-side plate of the hinge. Here's a new hinge looks like just sitting on the counter (even though it kind of looks like it's attached to it):

It looks to me like there's some kind of nut/lockring on it, but when I try pliers and a screwdriver to loosen it, it just strips the metal of the nut/lockring away. The lockring turns along with the screw, no matter how hard I grip the lockring.

Does anyone have an idea how to get this screw out?

Also, in case it helps, the hinge is Amerock BP8700-G10

It looks like a lockring is used to hold the screw in place. You'll have to hold the screw still and rotate the lockring, or vise versa.

Using a flat-head screw driver and mallet, is a common way to rotate lockrings.  Though, you'll have to find a way to hold the screw steady, while you bang the lockring free.

Place a flat-head screw driver blade against one of the sprockets of the lockring.
Sharply rap the handle of the screwdriver with a mallet.

It's possible that the lockring is made of some type of softer metal, so grabbing it with pliers could easily damage it.  Using a screwdriver and mallet applies force only in a useful direction, whereas pliers apply non-useful forces required for gripping. These non-useful forces may damage the lockring.


What's the use for a tapered handle socket wrench? When browsing around for tools I don't need I saw this socket wrench with a tapered handle.  What is this used for, and what makes the tapered handle more useful than a non-tapered/knurled handle?

That is a tool for scaffolders or similar so they carry one tool and not two, given where they work having to keep changing tools means the risk of dropping one increases...
The taper is used to align the holes so the bolts go in.


Using a three-wire cable across two breakers I recently had a new panel installed and asked for a couple new runs to be installed at the same time.
The electrician used a 14/3 cable (red-black-white) for each of these new runs, informing me that 1A = Red / 1B = Black and 2A = Red / 2B = Black. I think he did this as a favor to me as I told him I wanted to get my basement fridge on its own circuit. I've wired up the circuit; breaking the tab in the outlet with Red on top, black on bottom and each outlet can be control by their own 15amp breaker from the box.
I've read a few other posts, specifically this answer about this situation and I'm trying to understand about how/why/when the neutral could end up in a situation of 30amps. I was going to take my second run and split it at a box with A (Red) using 2 wire for my overhead lights and B (Black) 2 wired going to the outlets. This isn't terribly different than the first scenario with the split outlet, just that the two loads aren't beside each other in the final outlet. I just want to ensure I'm not wrong to wire it up this way or could get into the situation of the 30amp neutral.
Per requests, here is an image of the breakers in the panel. Bottom left 2 groups. I currently have one off as they aren't hooked up.
Edit/update:  Testing with a multimeter shows:

red/white = 120v
black/white =120v
red/black = 0v   --per comments this is a problem.

DANGER!
This is totally wrong. You have 2 pairs of 1/2-size breakers - a.k.a., "double stuff" or "tandem". If you measure voltage between black and red (i.e., between a pair of hots) you will find 0V instead of 240V. If this was done by an actual licensed electrician, he should have his license revoked. If it was done by a handyman-acting-as-electrician, this is why most places don't allow that.
Note that this would be perfectly fine with two separate cables - i.e., each breaker getting its own black & white wires. But sharing (MWBC) only works if the pair of breakers are (a) on opposite poles/legs so that you get 240V between the hots and (b) the breakers are physically paired (handle tie or double-breaker) like the 40A pair across from these breakers.
And now for the really crazy part. The usual reason to go for 1/2 size breakers is because you don't have enough space to put full size breakers. But you have more space right below above (picture is upside down, or panel is upside down) the new breakers! You could easily have 2 pairs (i.e., 2 double breakers) of 15A full-size breakers and everything would be just fine.
There is actually one other alternative. A quadplex breaker:

The beauty of a quadplex is that the inner and outer pairs each function like a traditional double breaker. Red and black to the outer breakers + white neutral. Red and black to the inner breakers + white neutral. Done.
Difference in cost between 1 quadplex and 2 tandem breakers at Home Depot? Less than $11. Probably even less of a difference at an electrical supply house.


Should I leave splices when pulling new thermostat wire? My existing 4-wire thermostat cable comes out of the furnace, and each of the wires is wire-nutted to another wire. That then goes to the thermostat.

I'm going to pull new cable to support a smart thermostat. Should I keep the splices, or should I run one continuous cable from the furnace all the way to the thermostat? If I should leave splices, should I put them all into a box?

The furnace was replaced a couple years ago, and I'm unsure if the splices were a result of that or a result of updated codes or best practices.

It is always best to have unspliced conductors. I would make sure to leave a small service loop (extra wire length) for other possible changes in the future.


Can previously stained pine logs be stained darker later? Can you stain a lighter stain on a white pine log a darker color at a later date?  We are in the process of building a log cabin.

Probably not if you have finished the logs with some type of sealer such as a varnish or polyurethane.

If not totally sealed you can with stain/finish products that basically paint on. This type of finish would be very similar to modern types of exterior semi-translucent water based deck stain/finish.


How do I ground my house wiring? I have read this thread. I myself have the same dilemma. I think the misunderstanding is the houses used to be grounded to the water pipes. I now have new Pex plastic pipes, so now my house is NOT grounded. My question, “How do I fix this problem”? And yes it was built and wired with 2 prong outlets everywhere.

I get where your endgame is just to plug in 3-prong plugs; OK, the easy shortcut there is fit GFCI receptacles or breakers.

However, if you want real grounding that  you will depend on for safety and equipment protection, then you need to start at the grounding rods.

The source of grounding (earthing) is the grounding rods going into the earth. These could be water pipes if metal, an UFER ground if built into the foundation, or grounding rods driven into the earth at the correct locations.

From these rods, a grounding electrode carries the ground to the main panel.  At the main panel ONLY, there is a bond between ground and neutral. Allowing them to bond anywhere else can create a safety problem.

From the main panel, ground wires go to each subpanel and up each circuit.  Ground wires can be retrofitted, and we have questions which discuss retrofitting grounds.

Again, it must start at the grounding rods and go via the main panel.  Do not "island" grounds; don't have an area where the house where the grounds connect to each other but not to the main panel and earth.  This only spreads the danger: if one device has a ground fault, it electrifies the chassis of all of them.

It sounds like you are struggling with some of the things we are talking about.  We can't provide a full explanation of all things electrical which relate to this issue; that is not our format here. But you'll need that to be successful. Blundering ones way through electrical work is a fire or shock waiting to happen, and knowledge is such an easy thing to acquire.


What considerations do I need to make when mounting heavy objects on plaster walls? I have just moved into an old apartment in Brooklyn. The landlord has warned us that all the walls are plaster with wood framing. I have not dealt with this type of wall before.  I would like to hang pictures (both small and large) as well as a fold away table that would weigh about 40 lbs. I have heard Plaster walls crack easily.

The Table top will be a modified version of an Ikea Vika table. I will be adding swing out legs, so as to support it when it is in the folded out position.

What considerations do I need to make with mounting these things to the walls, so to avoid cracked plaster, as well as the walls falling down?

Your task is to find the studs..

Electronic versions of stud finders abound, plaster is difficult for most of them. I have a 1/2 dozen of them..  I keep hoping.  The problem with plaster is the lath used to support it. The lath can be a variety of materials: wood strips, metal mesh and even pasterboard.  All of these materials are attached to the studs and THEN the plaster is coated over the lath. Two newer scanners aimed at professional use Milwalkee scanner    Bosch scanner  .  They both will detect electrical wires and some pipe, but you are on your own for proper interpretation.

One technique is to verify stud location is via drilling a short depth (not more than an inch to verify a stud)

Drilling in plaster: masonry bits or ceramic tile bits are the best to use to cut through the plaster with fewer cracks.  Driving nails is a plea for cracks.  The drill diameter should match the screw diameter, to not place stress on the plaster.  The actual screw holding will be done by the stud.

Once a stud is located, wood screws should be imbedded 1/2" or more, depending on the weight.  The earlier comment regarding a "buffer" board spanning the area is a good one, especially if the place you want to attach is between studs.

Finally, patching small cracks is not hard, use Durabond setting joint compound to mimic plaster.


How do I wire an additional recessed light to an existing switched circuit? I am installing an additional potlight to an existing circuit in an older house. I wanted to control the potlight with an existing switch that controls other existing lights. I was able to fish a wire from the new potlight into the switch box controlling the existing lights.
The existing switch box only had one set of wires. I have determined that the existing hot wire is the white wire at the switch.  When I connected the wires I could not get the lights working properly. I connected the hot wire to the new light's black wire then connected the two neutrals to the switch poles.
Only the new light comes on when I connected it this way.  The existing lights don't work.
How do I wire this properly?

There probably is no neutral at the switch box. A switch with "one set of wires" (I am guessing you mean one cable - pictures or a clear description would help me be accurate) is almost certainly a "switch loop." Under newer codes that should be a 3-wire (red-black-white-ground - ground is not counted in naming the cable, so "3-wire") cable to supply a neutral to the switch box, but under older codes a 2-wire black-white-ground cable was often used.

One wire (should be black) will be the hot to the switch. The other (should be red on the 3-wire, or on 2-wire the white wire which SHOULD have red tape or paint applied to it) will be the switched hot, from the switch, back to the first fixture. The neutral for the circuit will be at the fixture in this case.

(Pardon - North American color codes - other parts of the world do have other conventions, involving blue, brown, etc...)

Likely what you need to do is move the new light's wire to one of the other lights, not the switch.

Edit, Add - what you probably are doing is putting the one new light in series with all the other lights in parallel between it and neutral. If you remove the bulbs in all the other lights, odds are good that the new one will go out. If you remove most of them, you'll probably find that the new fixture gets dimmer, and the remaining lights on the circuit start to glow a bit...all the lights should be in parallel (from hot to neutral) but what you have now is hot, the one light, an intermediate connection from the one light to all the other lights, and through those other lights to neutral.


How can I finish the gap above my door with Stucco? I have about a 12" gap between the top of my new entry door and the door opening because the house is 100 y.o. and back then they used bigger doors or simply higher transoms.  When I ordered the current door from HD, it was not possible to get a custom height or transom.

So I framed a 36x12 box above the door to fill the gap.  I plan to close it with a 1/2" plywood piece and then put some wire mesh over it and stucco.

Q1: Will this work?  I have never done stucco/mortar over wood or wire mesh.
Q2: If it does work, will the stucco protect the plywood substrate from moisture decay?

Sounds like a good idea.  You will need to put a layer of roofing felt over the plywood, as stucco will absorb water.  You will also need to attach the mesh with galvanized nails or lath screws so they don't corrode.  There are two kinds of stucco: base coat and finish.  For small jobs like this, you can probably get away with using just two layers of base coat.  There are plenty resources out there on how to apply the stucco.


Run power supply wire through garage for security camera I need to run thin power supply wire that came with security camera through garage. I have bricks in front upper portion of garage but there is little garage eaves where I can mount the camera. I also see rubber strips running across and down the garage outside against which door sealed when closed. Could any one please help what is the best way to run wire without doing too much effort. Please refer to pictures for inside and outside of garage corner where I want to install camera. Thanks
Garage door

To help with terminology I've added some notes to one of your pictures showing the names I use for the parts. The rubber strip is a "weather seal" and the painted white wood is a "jamb."

You can drill horizontally into the jamb. You'll need a long drill bit for this; the hole may have to be 4-6 inches deep from the interior surface of the lumber on the wall. This bore is illustrated with the line segment marked "1".
Next, drill vertically up into the jamb as illustrated with line "2". If you've positioned the drill well the two holes will intersect and you'll have an L-shape passage through the wood.
The wire can be fed through. It may be necessary to feed something else through first -- a small/light gauge wire, a string, etc. Creativity is key here. For example, if you're trying to get string through the long horizontal bore but it hangs up on the rough wood, try inserting a drinking straw first and push the string through that. It'll get you to the far end of the hole where a small hook or tweezers may be able to grab the string.
Before drilling the actual door jamb tou could practice the technique on a scrap of lumber from somewhere. A home center, lumber yard, or construction site may have a piece they'll sell or give to you.


Will a GFCI device work on circuit where the neutral is switched? How well will a GFCI circuit be able to detect current flows, if both the "hot" input and the (supposedly) "neutral" input to a GFCI outlet are energized?

The reason I am interested in this is that I am renting an old (1915) townhome and have discovered that an (ungrounded) wall outlet and a ceiling fixture are both controlled by a wall switch that opens the netural wire instead of the hot wire.  The result is that when switch is off, the direct neutral line is open, but the netrual input of the GFCI is connected to hot.  When I reported this to the landlord, their electrical contractor put in a GFCI, but they do not want to correct the open neutral.  (I think it may be a knob and tube circuit with only the neutral line going through the wall switch, so fixing it may require pulling apart the wall and/or rerunning the entire circuit.)

For what it is worth, when the switch is off (and both inputs are energized), the GFCI test button will trigger a disconnect, but the  reset button is not functional.  But I'm not sure if the test button guarantees that the GFCI is providing effective protection in this scenario, hence my question: will a GFCI circuit work when both inputs are energized and it has no real neutral and no ground?

A GFCI is only measuring currents and does not care about the voltages on either of the two wires going through it.

As long as the net current is always zero, it really doesn't matter how it is switched on and off.

The real problem with a "switched neutral" is that the contacts inside the fixture are live with respect to ground even when the switch is off. If you should accidentally touch the contacts while grounded, the GFCI will protect you by tripping. But if the fixture were wired correctly, that particular risk wouldn't exist at all.


color matching walnut, oak, pine, and antique douglas fir? I'm renovating the living room this month, including the staircase, and I'm hoping that all different wood pieces can at least look like the same shade of brown.

I have a salvaged solid walnut newel post I'm about to install. I'm going to replace the pine stair treads with oak, and the rail will also probably be oak as well. The ballasters, riser boards, skitboards and rest of the trim will probably be painted white. The living room floor boards are antique douglas fir that we're hoping to restore completely. And I'm going to use pine boards to build box beams that will go around the perimeter of the ceiling.

Any advice on how the very different woods can at least look like they're similar in color??

The wife likes the dark walnut color and so do I, but I'm against staining the the walnut. From my experience, walnut can be "darkened" with Boiled Linseed Oil but it's not my preferred treatment - I like Tru Oil best for walnut.

Thanks!

Short answer is that you can get them pretty close, but it's going to take some care while staining.

Oak and walnut have similar grains, so with proper staining, they can look pretty similar.  Assuming it's common red oak, your oak might have a slightly more reddish tint to it.  White oak won't have that, but it's less common and generally more expensive.  Pine is more yellow in color and has a less grainy appearance than either oak or walnut, but as it's being used on the ceiling it will be much less noticeable.

My suggestion would be to take the finished newel post into your local big box or woodworking store and carefully match it against stain samples.  Lots of those types of stores will have the samples on red oak and pine, as they're very common woods.  The key is to look for hue, not darkness.  Stains can be lighter or darker depending on how much you apply, so that much you can control.  The actual color is determined by the stain.  You'll also want a clear coat to protect the finished product - make sure you use compatible stains and clears (don't mix oil-based and water-based products - they don't like each other).

Woodworking stores will probably have a better selection, better quality stains, and/or more knowledgeable staff on average.  I won't disparage big box retailers because I used to work at one, and the folks I worked with were pretty knowledgeable.  Your experience may vary.

Since the oak is going much closer to the walnut, pick a stain that looks best on the oak even if the pine sample is a little off.

You can find lots of great tutorials on staining oak and pine on the internet, like here and here.  Pre-conditioner helps keep the stain uniform, which is especially tricky with pine due to its general softness and uneven porosity.  Use cut pieces from sizing your stair treads and box beams as samples to practice and refine your prep and staining until you're satisfied.

You can also probably find a wealth of information on staining techniques on the Woodworking Stack Exchange site.

Good luck!


Should I tilt my DIY self-standing bookshelf backwards to prevent it falling down? Context
I intend to build a self-standing bookshelf using 18mm-thick, CNC-router-cut plywood. The bookshelf is made of nested planks, and entirely fits a 35cm-deep recess in my wall.

Following pictures display first a sketch of the global design, and second, how I intend to nest planks (click on picture to see them full size):

1/
2/

Problem:
Although I don't have any children and don't really expect some at my home during the lifespan of the bookshelf, I kind of fear that it could topple frontwards. I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall.

Question:
Should I consider tilting either the supports (picture A: α<90°), or the shelves (picture B: β>90°) — or even both — backward by a few degrees to prevent the bookshelf to topple? If yes, which solution is the best, and what angle would be advisable?

A/ B/

Question:

Use Screws Anyway
If it was me, I would quietly ignore "I am not allowed to secure it using screws in the wall." We are talking about a couple of screws here, which would leave ~ 1/4" holes, not cutting out large sections of the wall.
Assuming it is drywall or plaster over studs, as opposed to a brick wall, I would put in two screws (~ 2" long) through brackets on the top shelf positioned so that the screws go into studs. The patching needed when you leave, if any, is minimal - really would get taken care of trivially as part of a routine "get ready for a new tenant paint job". You'll sleep much better.


Lamination to achieve smooth surface over plywood If I have a 2x4' piece of regular plywood, is there any laminate material that I can glue on top of it to achieve the smoothness of MDF board or cheap kitchen counter tops? I was thinking something that comes in rolls like wallpaper that is either self-adhesive or that I can glue using contact cement or wood glue.

I'm not sure if "lamination" is the correct word -- I am essentially just looking to achieve a smooth surface that I can wipe off with a damp cloth that is smooth (and not rough like plywood).

Lamination is a valid term to use in your application. Countertops are often laminated with Formica™ but I would not consider it to be a product to be rolled on in a manner similar to wallpaper.

I tossed a search to the world wide interweb for "thin laminate" and found a product I was unaware existed.

It's called cabinet veneer sheet and is produced and sold in various thicknesses and with various patterns. I've seen figures for 1/32" thickness with paper backing (implying self-adhesive) and poly backing, again self-adhesive.

One would expect that you've sanded the plywood prior to application and used a tack cloth or other method to remove sawdust. Read and follow all label directions to get the best bond possible.


Why is my hot water tank randomly emptying through the overflow pipe? The other night I woke up thinking it was raining really heavily. I looked out the window to see clear skies, so I popped outside to investigate. Along the side of our house I found a stream of water coming from our geyser (hot water tank) overflow pipe. It went on for about 20 minutes or so, which I can only imagine completely emptied the tank. This has happened before, but it happens only occasionally (maybe once every two or three months). When it happens though it will happen two or three days in a row. I don't think this is normal behavior for a geyser, and I'm sure it's causing higher power consumption. Why is my geyser doing this, and is it something that can be fixed?

The tank has a serious problem! Pressure is building in the tank and is released by the over pressure valve on the side of the tank and comes out the overflow pipe. This is not normal operation for this to happen! If over pressure occurs even once, it needs to be investigated! If you allow this to frequently happen you are inviting disaster. Get the tank replaced immediately!

Also if you have an expansion tank, the internal bladder may have erupted.


How can I install a vanity over this unfortunate plumbing? I have recently removed a vanity from my bathroom and am facing an unfortunate plumbing footprint when trying to put a new vanity in place.

The cold water line runs right against a built in cabinet which I would like to keep in place and the drain for the sink is also the drain for the bathtub in the upstairs bathroom.  So the drain pipe actually comes out of the wall and then into the floor.

My question is will I be able to remove enough material from a new vanity to fit it in this space or will I compromise the structural integrity of the vanity I am trying to install.

The previous vanity that I removed was custom built to fit in the space, ie extra pieces of wood were attached to an old piece of furniture and a piece of marble was cut for the counter top.  Believe me it sounds nicer than it looked.

Here is an image of what I am dealing with.

Cut that pipe out in 2 places. One place is above the bottom shelf of the new cabinet and mid way between the 2 fittings on the upper pipe that goes at a 45 degree angle. Recouple it back together when the cabinet is installed. The supply lines need to be relocated too, but you may be able to move them around to get past their issues.

The cutting of the vent pipe is still taking a small chance it will be difficult to get the pipe back together. As it is you will need to shorten the pipe you cut  out at least by a 1/2" to make room for the stop built in as part of the coupler. You will also need to account for how much out of square the cut has too.

If the upper portion of the pipe has a little upward give to it, it will be a lot easier to rejoin. If not you will need to be really assertive on getting it back together again.


Can I use 8" flex duct on a 7 inch rigid duct connection? I am moving ducting three studs down, so I need to extend an insulated 7” flex pipe run that bridges a 7” elbow with a 7” floor register duct.
7” flex is hard to find locally but I have plenty of 8” insulated ducting left over from another project. Would it be okay to bridge that run between the elbow and the register with a 8” flexible duct?

You can do it but it will make a larger dead air space I won’t say I haven’t done something like that because I had extra of the larger size and ran out of the smaller.


Why has my electricity bill doubled? In recent months, my electricity bill has been steadily going up, from 20% to 40% to, now, 100%. It's doubled.

I don't see any appliance running continuously except several ceiling fans. All my appliances are regular, meaning what one would find at home, such as fridges, cooktop, water heater, oven, lights, etc. There is a pool pump I turn on and off daily.

Where should I start to tackle the problem? I have divided this problem into two categories: house appliance problem and meter problem. I'd like to see if this is appliance problem first and deal with the meter separately. The meter is read monthly on the 20th. So, the bill jump is real, not estimated.

This happened to me numerous years ago - my bill went from $135 one month to $300 or so the next month. Just by pure luck in trying to determine what was wrong, I went into my attic and found that a air vent had come loose and was happily streaming cold air straight into the 100+ degree attic. I fixed that, and the next bill was back to normal.


How can I repair peeling finish on a faucet handle? I've got a faucet in my bathroom that has a bit of the finish peeling off after what appears to be some kind of oxidation has built up underneath it. I'd like some suggestions as to how to repair this - the faucet is in otherwise good condition.

Should I try a paint? Some kind of touch-up pen? Also, I suspect I should remove the bit that's peeling and try to remove the powdery, white oxidation prior to any repairs, yes?

The peeling finish appears to be a metallic plating over a another metal or over plastic.

You might be able to glue the lifted areas down using a cyanoacrylate type glue. You need to be very careful with these because they will glue your skin to a surface in a second or two. Such a repair would be iffy, and the handle may continue to peel in other areas. If there are small gaps, you could use a marking pen to mask them, but the coating is fairly transparent on metals (on plastics they tend to look more solid).

You could remove the handle, scrape all loose areas, sand with a very fine paper (or emery cloth), wipe with a solvent (such as mineral spirits) and then spray paint with an all surface enamel. There are a few plastics that resist even that type of paint (such as polyethelenes), but would not be likely used on a plumbing fixture.

Or you could try to get a replacement handle from the manufacturer.


If you wire a separate circuit does that do the same job as a GFCI? does a separate circuit for a single outlet do the same job as a GFCI?

GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) has nothing to do with what the circuit is on.

Essentially, a GFCI shuts off if the current on the hot and neutral wires are not equal. This happens when there's a literal ground fault (hot has some pathway to ground, such as through frayed insulation), or there's a dangerous situation, like current is flowing through a person or through water and going to another ground (like a water pipe).

A GFCI can operate independently on a circuit with other non-GFCI outlets, on a dedicated circuit, and it can also protect other downstream outlets. There are also circuit breakers with GFCIs integrated that protect the entire circuit.


How do I transition between tile and drywall in a tub surround? I'm working on a tub surround, which is about to be tiled. And the last piece I need to figure out, is how to transition between finished tile and adjacent wall.

This is how my wall looks right now.

Backerboard is 1/4", and drywall is 1/2". With thinset, tile, etc, tile qill be ~1/8" thicker than drywall. I'll be using this edge where the tile ends:

What is the best way to facilitate the transition so that I don't have to re-do all the walls in the bathroom? (e.g. something that will not just have a gap there, and will not require reapplying the wallpaper or repainting the whole thing)

A usual method is to go down the edge of the wall with a surface bullnose, showing a "knife edge" at the corner.  This means the tile rolls down to meet the corner.

Another method, if your bullnose has finished bottoms, is to overlap the edge and go "around the corner", having the bullnose round into the outside wall (the wall that has the striped wallpaper) The bullnose will hide the tile edge, putting that grout line facing the side of the entrance.

This photo shows both methods:
the left with a flat-on-wall knife edge and
the right shows a wrap-around-the corner

You can use the edge profile pictured, in place of surface bullnose.  You would adjust your tile to end short of the corner (equal to the edge thickness of the profile.

In all cases, grout would be filled into the corner/wall junction.


Can I use construction adhesive alone to attach pressure-treated wall plate to concrete floor? Replacing walls in basement due to flooding.  Contractor installed sump and drain pipe around the inside of the cinder block wall.  I want to put in new wall, concerned that TapCon or other hammer/gun attachments will compromise the cement cover over that pipe.  Can I just use liquid nails?

I have found liquid nails on a few jobs in the past that did appear to work but is not code in my area. The 2x4 placed flat on the wall only needs an inch and a half to be code. The minimum wall thickness for a single story here is 6" and 8-12" on taller structures. Most modern basements were poured with forms that have straps or snap pins holding the forms from blowing out. These go all the way through so I don't think there would be a problem with Tapcon or expanding anchors. I have used both on my homes and jobs with no negatives. Tapcons will strip out if over tightened so I now use 3" long Hammer set expanding anchors. They are a bit more expensive but I have never had one pull out on studs or back planes for electrical panels.


How do I fix the low water flow of my kitchen sink? Here's what I know. Our kitchen sink used to work fine, then one day the water flow was suddenly really low, like just slightly better than a trickle. We called our landlord about it, and so he came by one day while I was at work and fixed it. My wife says he basically went under the sink, did something, and the problem was resolved in a matter of minutes.

Unfortunately the problem has come back. Knowing that it's supposedly very easy to fix, I'm trying to figure out how to do it myself; but I've looked under the sink and the only thing I can really imagine he did was something involving these knobs:

However, for the life of me I can't seem to turn either knob in either direction. I've tried loosening the screws, but those just seem to hold the knobs on (as I'd expect, but you can never be too sure).

Obviously I don't know much anything about how sinks work, or else I wouldn't be posting here. I'm hoping somebody knows exactly what's wrong and can tell me what obvious thing I'm missing.

If it's just that the knobs need to be turned... any idea why they'd be basically impossible to turn? Does something else need to be adjusted first?

First confirm that the problem is at the valves and not a clogged faucet screen.

Backing-up the valve with an  adjustable wrench you could turn your knobs with channel locks but be prepared for a few drips, or something completely catastrophic to happen. Not something to be messing with on a Saturday evening. Being frank, those valves are crap. Preferably use 1/4 turn valves. Seeing that these are compression fitting, they're easily changed. Ask for these.

The choke point is at the valve, this clears the blockage: Once you have the valves spinning freely, shut them off and disconnect the leads at the faucet (back this up carefully, do not twist the copper leads). Run the lines into a bucket, completely opening and closing the valves several times. Reattach them, turn them on. Do not touch them again without repeating these steps. Remove the faucet screen and run some water for a bit. Reinsert a cleaned screen, done.


Can a 3-wire surge protective device be used on a single phase, 120V circuit? I'm installing some surge protection for a radio installation, and I have a somewhat unusual requirement of installing the surge protection device (SPD) at an Earth ground where the antenna feedline enters, which is about 100' from the main panel. This is because the antenna by virtue of its design must be grounded, it's not feasible to run the feedline to the existing electrical service ground, and so effective surge protection requires limiting the surge voltage at another ground location, where the feedline enters the house.

Many of the SPD I find have three wires: one for neutral, and one for each phase. The presumption seems to be they are installed at the main panel where neutral and ground are bonded.

In a previous question I was told there are SPDs with four wires, separating neutral and ground. Thus, they can limit the voltage between ground and neutral without requiring a direct connection between them away from the main panel, which would be hazardous. However, I need to protect only one, 120V, single-phase circuit. Using one of these four-wire SPDs, one of the wires would go unused.

I'm wondering, is it safe and permissible to use a 3-wire SPD (like the SDSA1175 I have in my hand) in this situation? The neutral connection would go to ground, one line connection to line, and the other line connection to neutral? Despite the naming clash, I can't imagine this is electrically different than the four-wire case, essentially a MOV between ground and each protected wire. Neutral isn't directly connected to ground, but in the event of a surge the MOV would clamp it within home hundreds of volts relative to ground.

I've used that exact part exactly as you described before on a 30A commercial circuit without incident.

Now, do I know that it has protected equipment from surges?  No.  But No damage has occurred since its installation.

Do keep in mind, that one of the 'ready' lights won't come on, because each ready light depends on a separate hot having voltage potential between it and what it thinks is neutral.  It's likewise not unrealistic to expect any faulty indicators to fail similarly.  But the MOVs will do the same job regardless.


Tile cutter for large format tile I am getting ready to do a tiled shower project, and after that, a roughly 800sq ft floor.  In both cases, I will use porcelain tile and the tile will be large format tile (LFT) that measures 12"x24".
I have a wet saw, but the shower is on the second floor and it would be much easier if I could cut the tile in the same room or at least on the same level of the house.  To do this, I am looking at purchasing a tile cutter similar to this one.  I understand that tile cutter can only cut straight lines, and I am OK with that.
My concern is that I've seen numerous websites/comments that say a tile cutter does not produce a clean edge, and that since porcelain is harder than ceramic, getting a good cut is much harder with the tile I want to use.
I am wondering if anyone can confirm or refute my concern.  I am by no means a professional, but I would venture to say I'm an above-average DIYer.  Given that, do I stand a reasonable chance of being able to use a tile cutter with a somewhat high degree of success?

Using something like this you better be willing to practice and make sure you have the best tool.   You can score and snap and it can be clean.   But it can go the other way too and you can have tail pieces, cracks or flaky edges.
We have a tile guy that uses one of these from the 1960s and he sharpens the cutting wheel daily.   His lines are great and it saves time.   However I have seen many many people use these and I have had to tell them that "hey that cut is crap, don't use it on my floor".
So if you are going this way, you better practice and make sure it is worth it.   Those are some big @ss tiles and imperfections will be noticeable.
If I were you I would keep the saw where I was laying down the main floor (not the shower).   Honestly if you are making that many cuts in your shower area for that large of tile you have not planned well.
Also know that if you want to snap the tiles - them being porcelain - you will have to score the crap out of them.   You will have to make sure the scoring wheel is sharp and is digging deep and you will have to practice putting pressure on the entire mechanism.   Putting pressure equally and holding the tile at 24" is really a two person job.
So can you snap tiles and have them look great?   Yes - for sure.   Seen it done.   Is it probably the most reliable method?   Probably not.   Would I prefer a wet saw?   Yes.   Can wet saws chip porcelain?   For sure.
The answer you want has to do with the quality of the tool you will buy and the amount of time you will invest (or money for scrap tiles) to use it correctly.   The guy I hire for high end tiling jobs uses a snapper...  At the same time I hire a lot of other guys that do a great job and none of them do.


How can I efficiently heat a pool? Continuously heating a pool can be expensive and the best ways to lower the cost are to have a cumbersome pool cover in addition to the equipment needed (solar or an AC-like heat pump). There must be a way to say, raise the temp of my pool 5-10 degrees using propane and a well crafted "heat exchanger". We don't go in the pool every day so if it cools off and we need to reheat we'll know the cost to do that is a tank of propane or so.

Does a propane heat exchanger exist? Can I make one myself? Can I use the same pump or should I set up a separate one just for heating?

When I was a kid, my much older brother heated the pool in his backyard by running a bunch of black painted pvc pipe to and fro on the fence, and then plumbed it into the filter system.


Garage upgrade from 20 AMP to 50 AMP I bought a house recently and I have some experience with electrical but I am not fully sure what would be the best course of action since I've never had a detached garage where the cable would be buried between the house and the garage.
I already have a 20 amp breaker in the main panel and a subpanel with 2 breakers at 15 amps in the garage. They are currently wired with a 12/3 gauge cable.
I would like to upgrade to a 50A breaker on the main panel so that I could have in the garage sub-panel:

20A 120v breaker
20A 240v breaker
15A 120v breaker

Would you all be able to help me try to figure out what I should do?
My current plan was to buy about 100 feet of 6/3 Romex and use the currently buried conduit to pass the new wire and install on the current main panel a 50A breaker.
My main panel is 200A, currently in NJ in case anyone knows any code problems that I should be aware of.
Where the conduit leaves the house:

Buried conduit is considered wet location. Romex typically refers to NM cable, which isn't approved for wet location.  Depending on conduit size you might be able to run 6/3 UF if you can find in quad (not flat) form, but it could be very hard to pull.
Also 6/3 costs about $2.50/ft, you would be better running 3@ #6 THWN at 0.54/ft and #10 ground @ 0.40/ft. (Actual price at my local Lowes). It would be cheaper and much easier to pull. You would need at least 3/4" conduit.
Protect the feeder with a 60A breaker in your main panel, and use a panel in the garage with a 60A or greater main disconnect, and ground rods. Buy a panel with many more spaces than you think you will ever need.
250 feet does have some voltage drop considerations, but the 40A load you describe will not create a problem even if full load at once.
Edit: I see you added it is 1/2" pvc, you'll never get #6 to fit, the largest wire you could legally fit is #10 THWN protected at 30A. I also see you added it's only 60 feet, voltage drop should not be a problem.


What could be causing all of my washing machine troubles? The past few times we have tried to use the washing machine, it has given off a burning smell and has even begun to smoke a bit.  Also, it doesn't appear to be draining fully in the spin cycle, so the clothes are left very saturated with water.  I'm not really sure why this is happening, I don't see anything trapped in the machine that could be causing the problem, but my knowledge of this stuff is pretty limited.  Any ideas what might be causing this?

Edit:  It's a Kenmore washer and dryer from Sears (Model number - 417.90812990). It seems like the washer has been unable to drain water properly, it doesn't really matter what size load you place in there, the rinse cycle doesn't seem to work and the dyer was smoking.  It definitely smells electrical.

Edit2: Alternatively, if I fail to address this by myself, who should I call ideally?  The warranty is out on it.  Last time I called Sears for a stove with a broken part they quoted a high price for parts combined with an offer to buy a new stove at a discount.  Should I expect the same again if I deal with them?  Should I call someone else?

Edit3: I checked it and it turned out that between minute 6 and the rinse cycle the washer stopped spinning.  Instead there was only buzz and then the plastic lid lock started smoking.  Here's that part:

http://www.apwapplianceparts.com/Store_Part.aspx?Id=673890

Part number is 131675600.  They sell them on ebay for $10.

Here's something interesting I found about that part:

http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/2rws2-i-m-replacing-lid-lock-switch-frigidaire-clothes-washer.html

Could it be that it's just shorting and all I have to do is replace it?  Or is this a symptom of a bigger problem?

Edit4: I called a specialist and he advised me to just eliminate the lid lock.  That fixed it.

One of two problems, burned out drive belt or burned out motor. This could be fixed by a DIYer, but need to know what level of mechanical ability you have.  Take off the front panel and take a look as you run it through a short cycle and be prepared to shut it off or pull the plug if you see sparks or smoke from the motor.


Please tell me what's the name of the metal wrap Can someone please tell me what's the name of the metal wrap in the first pic? It wraps the top of the wall on my roof top. My roof has a rubber layer on it and it goes up to inside the wall. On top of the wall, it is the metal wrap. It is old and cracks open, which causes leaks in my apartment. What's the name of this metal wrap if I need to replace it? How much normally does the material cost (per square, unit, etc.)? Thanks so much!
Carrie

combining Kris and Ecnerwal's answer that's a "cap flashing" cost is off topic.
Usually these are made to order at sheet-metal shop (ask at a plumbers supplier)
when you go to place an order (with a drawing and dimensions) they will tell you the cost.
It may be that the incorrect method has been used to make this connection and that a join capable of moving is needed here. It looks intact if it's not corroded, possibly only the join needs to be replaced with an expansion joint.


Can my panel support a 60A circuit for EV charging? I’m awaiting an EV I ordered, and in order to prepare for it, need to install a 240V outlet in my garage.
The circuit would be for a 'Ford Connected Charge Station':

60A breaker (240V, 2 pole, 60 Hz) with a 4-wire configuration

I currently have 100A service—however we have a gas stove, gas water heater, gas dryer, and gas range. Considering the EV would charge overnight, other than refrigerator, lights, alarm clocks, phone charging, etc., the total potential loads during that time would be:

EV charger 60A (nominal current 48A)
Central A/C 240V/30A
5,000 BTU Room A/C 120V (7A on 15A circuit)
Dishwasher 120V/20A

Currently my panel includes a 240V/20A circuit (outlet pictured) that I'm removing, as it's no longer used. Based on these factors, should I add a sub panel in order to add this circuit, or can the 60A safely replace the 20A?
Thanks in advance!

You're putting a 60A breaker in a 100A panel. That's fine.
The total of the breakers is more than the panel, because we assume every circuit will not be drawing full power at the same time. That's fine.
But if you use everything at once it may trip your 100A service. Unlikely, but possible.
When do you plan to upgrade to 200A?
Obviously you need to run 60A wire to your charger, and keeping that run as short as possible will save $$ in wire and voltage drop. Comment above about thicker wire is absolutely correct.
UNLESS code in your area requires a sub panel (I would have to look up the code) you don't need it for the electrons.
Free access to NEC at NFPA
You will NOT, of course, replace the 20/20 breaker with a 60/60 and connect to the old 12ga wire. But you knew that. That answer missed the point.


Refrigerator enclosure dimensions We are in the process of remodeling our kitchen. One of the bigger tasks is to take an existing tiny pantry area (10" deep) and expand it to become a refrigerator enclosure.

I know the standard refrigerator dimensions are roughly 36" wide x 70" tall x 30" deep but what dimensions should I make the enclosure? I know some people build around a specific refrigerator or try to make it as tight as possible but I'm not building around a specific model and I'm more concerned about ventilation, generic sizing, etc. than I am about squeezing it into a custom made enclosure.

I could obviously just bump everything up and make it 38" x 72" x 34" but am looking for some input from the community.

Why not build it around a specific model?  Refrigerators are made to be long-lasting, almost like a fixture, not something that changes frequently and needs a universally-sized nook.  If you pick a fridge now, you can get its exact dimensions and ventilation clearance requirements and build your enclosure to those specs.  What if you picked "standard" dimensions now, and then select your dream refrigerator only to find it won't fit?


Recommended palm sander techniques? I'm palm sanding (quarter sheet) flaking/chipped paint from exterior hardwood siding I want to preserve.  I read some hints here, but I'm seeking any other labor-saving hints - this job is tedious.  Here's the best of my knowledge so far:

First scrape loose material with a good 5-in-1 tool - avoids gummed paint in paper.
Separate sanding/painting teams - paint teams need clean air & surface.
Pre-drill a big stack of sheets with vent holes - avoid manually punching holes with each paper change.
Change paper often - gummed paper works much worse than new, and new paper is probably cheaper than your time.  Is paint stripping sandpaper definitely an advantage over general purpose sandpaper?  They don't sell it at my local big box stores.
Use good breather, snug gloves, safety glasses, and ear protection - have good knee pads handy for low work - throw in some earphones & music, this is a long job.
Spot prime after rough sand - use finer grit for resanding before later coats.
Use the best quality paint you can afford - you don't want to do this job again soon.  Modern oil based primers will accept latex paint.

Other suggestions?

I really think a palm sander is the wrong tool for this job.  Palm sanders are great for finishing with finer grits but lack the power to remove layers of paint quickly. The siding job you are starting would go a lot faster with a 5 or 6 inch dual action (DA) sander with prepunched velcro backed sandpaper disks. There are several nice ones for under $100 and buying disks in contractor packs is a good value. I have two Ridgid 5 inch DA sanders and have used and abused them for years. I think HD sells them for about $70.


Basement half wall advice Thoughts on how to go about this half wall on all the exterior walls in my basement? I have framed 2x4 walls up to the height of the half cinder block wall and installed installation. Above the half wall was insulated with a vapor barrier over by the builder. I do not need a vapor barrier on the half wall as this was done on the exterior of the home below grade. I am planning on installing a wood shelf at this area but should I be cautious of the 2" span of the top of the cinder blocks and moisture? Should this area be drywalled to make for easier shelf installation? Advice on how to handle the top of the cinder block wall and possible moisture issues in the future?

Man you can make that look really nice.   I would pop a 1x of pine on that and stain and poly it before install.   It only needs a couple of screws (or finishing nails - debate debate!).   And then you have this nice focal point ledge on the basement.   Can hold a vase, the remotes, or just stack it with junk!
I dont know how long of a run you have but - you have a LOT of options.

just the nice pine ledge (pine takes moisture really well, doesn't swell, and the stain doesn't fade fast with moisture)... ok here is the deal.  cool as hell if you can get something that spans the area or if you have an idea to cover the joint of 2 different 1xs with some ornamental wood (or functional)
pop in wall shelving all the way across.
be eclectic - different size pine boards... its a wall.   Different size shelves and whatever.

Do not hide this edge with drywall/mud.   I have a feeling just looking at it + your description you could drywall/mud but that's trying to hide it.   Make it look like you framed it for a purpose.   Make people who enter your basement think - wow wonder why he framed a ledge out like that, love that idea.   I always try to take any weird architectural iffyness and turn it into a focal point.


Hard to control water temperature in shower I am trying to diagnose a problem with the water temperature in a large building. Both the shower and tub have the same problem so it is not a valve issue. The shower has a completely different valve system than the tub but the problem is the same for both so it is not valve.

There are two problems. One is that it is difficult to set a proper middle temperature. It is either scalding hot or freezing cold. Also, the water seems to "remember" the temperature. So for example, if I turn it to hot and it gets scalding hot then I try to add cold water, even if I turn the hot water off and have nothing but cold, it is still too hot, and vice versa. If I have cold, then turn on hot fully, it stays cold, even though I had hot on previously so there should already be hot water in the lines; it seems impossible. It is almost like turning on one temperature is blocking the other one somehow.

The second problem is that the temperature changes relatively rapidly. So, even if I get the temperature in the tiny sweet spot where it is correct, within a minute or two it will start drifting cold. This is happening so fast that it is not a tank depletion issue. I think the building might have insta-hots. Are these problems typical of insta hot systems?

I figured out the problem: insta-hots, or what are called "tankless" hot water systems, have a pressure drop across the heat exchanger. If water is fed to both the cold and hot line at the same pressure, then there will be a pressure differential between hot and cold, the cold being higher. If both supplies are going to a common valve, then the cold will back into the hot supply. This can cause weird variations in shower temperature. For example, if a shower is started and the temperature is set, it will creep colder and colder because over time, more cold water creeps into the hot water line.

To solve the problem, it is essential that the pressure of the hot water coming out of the tankless system matches the pressure of the cold water system.


GFCI outlet wired but not working I installed a new GFCI outlet and the green light is not coming on. Why is that? Do I have it wired wrong?

I have tried rewiring it different ways but nothing is working. Can someone help me please?

Put the tape back on the LOAD terminals.   You may know that common receptacles have two screws on each side, one is a spare for continuing the circuit(or for splitting the receptacle for controlling each socket separately; watch out for a broken tab between screws.)  The LOAD terminals are not spares.  They have a specific purpose and we won't be using them for awhile.

Now, connecting only to the two LINE screws, hook up the hot and neutral from one cable.  Aim for it to be from the power supply.  Does the GFCI power up and act normally?

If not, the cable you used is probably not the supply cable.  Try another.

Okay, you now have a working GFCI.

Now the rest of the wires.  Consider these questions:

Are you sure the supply cable has only 2 wires (and a ground) with no red wire?
Do you know where the other wires go?
Do you want to provide GFCI protection to those other places?
Are you sure those places are properly wired and do not have any ground faults?
Are you ok with this GFCI tripping if one of those places has a subtle electrical problem?
If that happens, are you prepared to troubleshoot it?

If any of those questions are "no", then leave the tape on the GFCI "Load" terminals as you will not be using them today.

Use the "pigtail" techique - attach short wires to the GFCI's "Line" terminals, and use wire-nuts to join all the always-hot wires together and all the neutral wires together which are part of this circuit.

If the answer to all the above questions is "yes", then leave the wires currently on the LINE terminals where they are.  Here we go!  Peel the tape off the LOAD terminals.  Attach the remaining always-hot wire(s) to the brass and the remaining neutral wires to the silver.

Turn the breaker back on (it goes without saying that you do ALL wire changes with the breaker turned off) and run the GFCI through its paces.  Then go to all those downline destinations and test them too.  Does the GFCI trip?  NO? Then you are done.

Yes?  Then there is a problem with the downline loads.  Fix it.   Or if you are not willing to fix it, then one of your answers above should have been "no" and put the tape back on the LOAD terminals and wire it as above.


What kind of lock set do I need for this door? I need to install a door knob and latch on this old interior door (the cuts in the door were there when I bought the house, and the original hardware is long gone):

Could someone please tell me what kind of lock set I need, and whether I should be able to buy it off-the-shelf? I can't find any in my box store that fit.

I think it might be called a mortise lock, but the only locks of that type that I can find are too big for the opening on the side of the door.

need to install a door knob and latch on this old interior door

If you really need to do it, stop screwing about and drill the door for a standard modern lockset. You should be able to purchase the hardware and the lock/latch set at any decent window & door shop. They will lend/rent a jig to make it a simple job.


How can I repair rust damage on a steel shed? I have a shed in my backyard that came with the house.  It's made out of what I presume is steel sheet metal.  Overall it's in good shape, but there is some rust damage on one side that is getting worse, to the point where the sprinklers and rain are getting water inside the shed.

What's the best way to go about patching this?  Would I do it in the same way you would repair rust damage on a car (grind out the dust, tape/bondo the hole, prime and paint)?  Or is there some other approach that would make more sense?

Exactly how you would in a car.  Get rust out, bondo, prime, paint.  Just painting the areas well to keep the moisture out will help a lot although not a long-term fix.  Could also just replace that piece of metal or add another piece on top of it.


Burnt material on the back of the oven the element on my 15 year old GE oven sparked and broke.  I ordered a new one to replace it.  Once i turned the breaker back on i tested it and it got hot.  However in making this repair i noticed on the back of the oven panel the white cotton-looking material that surrounds the wiring looks to be burnt, about the size of a small fist.  I dont know if it was caused by the element or just over time.  is this a hazard or normal?  not interested in a kitchen fire. thanks.

That white cotton stuff is high temperature insulation protecting the appliance skin from the high temperatures inside the oven.  Its surface will at times become colored from the heat from the oven.  This is normal.  Try to put it back in its original place when you finish the repair. P.


Wall stud spacing too tight for replacement medicine cabinet Replacing old medicine cabinet with a new one. Space is just shy of 14-1/4 inches wide between two wall studs. Medicine cabinet could use another 1/8" to fit inside.
I am contemplating sanding down the inside wall stud surfaces to get a bit more space. I am also interested in knowing if one stud can be cut out and "sistered" back in place? The wall is parallel to the ceiling joists. The hole is framed in on 3 sides, except the bottom because of an outlet.
Is there a framing solution to this quandary? Or should I just sand the studs?

1/8" total? That's 1/16" on each side. Sand it down and call it a day.


Help with framing around old basement stairway I know this is always a tough question, but just looking for any insight. We are working on a bathroom reno in our basement and it happens to be where an old set of stairs came down to the basement. We can only see three sides of the old stair opening. The joists and one header, that we can, are doubled up. There is blocking bridging the 32" old opening. The current closet wall runs perpendicular to this blocking, but we will be moving the wall to the other side of the double joists. Therefore, the blocking won't be running over the wall any longer.
The question is, would moving the wall be of any concern since I would think those blocking aren't supposed to carry weight? Above this area is a coat closet and kitchen pantry as well. If any other info would help, please let me know!
Here is the wall that is moving. Basically where the right side of the door is would be the header for the old stairs.

The black lines are the double joists.

The current wall doesn't look at all structural, so removing it should not cause any structural problems.


Will this shower trim work with my existing setup? So I'm looking to replace my shower trim/handle, and I'm wondering if the new trim (2nd picture) is compatible with my existing setup. If it is compatible, what would I have to do to install the new trim?

Unlikely.

The new one has a square ferrule, yours is circular (hexagonal?).

You would need to get the escutcheon cylinder off of the new one and it would have to fit the old (or reuse).

If I had to guess, the new one pivots and rotates, where as yours just rotates. The action on the new lever seems to me like it would be un-ergonomic, if so.

Swapping out just the cartage might work, but I've no idea how to do that even if it's possible (and you'd be one lucky sob if you found them easily interchangeable). I've never tried to repair one with non OEM parts.

I also see no means of attaching the new escutcheon plate. Caulk is supposed to hold it, eh? More things I don't like: square handles and plastic ferrules. Whatever you do, Do Not discard your old parts, or you might be sorry.


Run DC light submerged in water? I am in the process of making a DC desk lamp out of all salvaged garbage materials. I am going to be using some christmas lights(AC bulbs, but running off DC, I know this works) for the main light but want to add some colored lights into the base. The base is an old bottle I plan on filling with water(Looks cool and counterweight). Is it safe to just submerge the bulbs in the water? Is there poetential risk? Any suggestions?

Even if you use deionized water (which is a great insulator) it won't STAY a great insulator if you expose it to copper, brass, etc. in unsealed connections, which will leach ions and cause the water not to be deionized, nor a very good insulator. This will cause the lights in the water to fail, and may also offend your power supply.

If you want liquid, for some reason, mineral oil (USP) is clear, non-toxic, and a good electrical insulator that will stay an insulator. It will also make a mess if you tip the lamp over.

I'd suggest pouring the bottle full of epoxy, which will harden so it can't spill, and is an excellent insulator as well. Alternatively, find a size of marble or glass bead that fits through the neck opening and fill with those.


What do I need in order to install under cabinet lights? I want to install hardwired, under-cabinet lighting, but I need some guidance on what kind of devices (transformers/drivers/adapters) I need to complete the project. I know very little about electricity and even reading some of the electrical answers on this site (like this one) have my head spinning so I'm hoping somebody can just tell me what I need. Here is my situation:

The rectangles (A-F) are my wall kitchen cabinets. The yellow wires (1-5) are the wires already setup (connected to a wall switch), on a single circuit, carrying 120VAC. 1 connects to 2, which is connected to 3 and so on.

I want to use something like this.

However, my difficulty is most of these LED under cabinet light solutions on Amazon seem to be assuming that you have one set of cabinets, where you can link all of your lights in a perfect row, and one plug that you will then plug everything into. I don't have that. I have 5 120VAC lines, and one of those lines (#5) needs to have 2 lights interconnected (for cabinets E and F) on that one line (why it was setup like this is another story).

So if I were to buy the light kit above (or something similar), please tell me what [else] I need such that;

I can plug a single LED strip (or puck) into the 120VAC lines on cabinets A, B, C and D
I can plug two LED strips (or pucks) into the 120VAC line on cabinet E

In case it matters, the scenario illustrated here is slightly more simplified then my actual setup. In my actual setup, there are two more cabinets. One touching cabinet 'F' (call it cabinet 'G'), and another cabinet which is stand-alone just like cabinet A (call it cabinet 'H'). So there are really 8 cabinets, and 6 lines coming out of the wall, but I didn't include them in the picture to try to simplify the scenario. I add them here incase it matters (for voltage/wattage/amperage/gigawatt consideration).

Also note, I'll probably have somebody else do the installation, but I still want to know what I need so I have it ready for whomever does the install.

EDIT: It has come to my attention that I can run 12V DC current on Romex. So is there anything wrong with setting up a transformer at line #1, to convert the current to 12V DC continuing down the line to points #2-5? That way all I need is one transformer at cabinet A. Assuming the transformer can handle the load of all the LEDs total wattage, is there anything wrong with this approach?

I just installed these under some cabinets, and they work great.

Most LED under cabinet lights are similar so...  Each "strip" is made to chain to the previous strip.  In my installation, the first strip is plugged into an outlet with the large transformer you have pictured, and then a 12v jumper goes from the first to the second, second to the third, etc.  I have 6 lights in a chain.

You installed 5x 120v drops...  You could have a transformer at location #1, #2, and #5, and chain #2>#3>#4 and #5>#6.  For each separate 120v connection you will need a duplex outlet and a 12v transformer.  For the lights that I linked, the barrel connector on the transformer needs an adapter to fit the smaller barrel of the lights, so pay attention to that as well.

Amazon sells the transformers and jumper wires separately, so you can buy them as needed.

Also note that your linked question is dealing with RGB "strip lights" that are cut-to-fit, so it's much more complicated than plain'ol white, modular LED lights.


Replacement Strip of Siding When I purchased my house I noticed a strip of siding assumingly blew off the garage.  In the garage was a strip of siding that was the correct length to replace it.  I tried going up there and fitting it into place to no avail, the new strip is too tall by about an inch.  Do I have the wrong siding or do I need to do something to get these to fit together.  I am a total newbie to siding.

With vinyl siding, you start at the bottom and work up, so when you get to the top, you're left with a piece that probably needs to be cut.  You try to measure before you start so you have close-to-a-full-piece at the top, which is what seems to be the case here.  I'm guessing you found a new piece in the garage that would need to be trimmed a little.

Look at how much the existing top piece seems to be cut, and how the top is fastened into place so you don't cut the new piece incorrectly.  You might be able to pull on the edge of the existing piece to get a better idea of how it's being held in place.


Replacing Furniture Cam Dowel & Lock Pin I have a wooden dresser in perfect condition, which started to come apart. When I looked closely it seems the cam locks started to crack causing the drawers to fall apart. I have searched all major hardware retailers and could not identify a the correct name to find a replacement part.

Would appreciate any help on identifying the replacement part name or suggestions on repairing this problem.

Many places call them Cam Connectors ( see: http://www.homedepot.com/s/cam%2520Connecter?NCNI-5 ) and Cam Screws ( see: http://www.homedepot.com/s/cam%2520screw?NCNI-5 ) or take Michael Karas' lead and check out the "Customers who bought this item also bought" section for other offers.


Is there a way to mark/label a special use switch? I'm going to be rewiring my front porch light, and in the process I've decided to pull cable for a switched receptacle for Christmas lights.  I'm going to install a 2 gang box for both switches (porch, receptacle), but I'd like to make it obvious that the receptacle is not just a dead switch.

Aside from putting a Santa clause switch plate on, how can I mark the switch?

Use a timer switch for the switched receptacle. You can get a two gang face plate that has one standard 15A switch opening next to a decora (square) opening. That's a very common configuration for a powder room, where you usually see one single pole switch next to a GFCI receptacle.

The switch I linked to is just an example. You can get one that has typical on/off functionality as well as timer functionality.

This adds convenience, as you don't have to remember to turn it on (and off) manually, and makes it obvious that the second switch controls something else. You can then label it too, if you like.

I believe Leviton makes a nice programmable timer that has a button on the bottom for an override (always on / off), which is probably what you want. Any local DIY supply house or electrical supply shop will have several.


How simple is it to fix this drip? Now that I have finally opened the water outside after the winter freeze, I'm encountering a drip.

I can foresee three levels, in increasing difficulty, of fixing this problem:

Squeeze some Teflon tape and keep turning the knob back and forth hoping that enough will be lodged inside to stop the drip.
Replace the "heart" of the conduit (the valve, essentially), but without replacing the soldered body.
Replace the entire valve (jacket/outside + inside part), which, as you can see in the picture, will require soldering.

I can handle 1 and 2.

Is there a chance for 1 to be enough?

Is 2 doable, or will I have to replace the entire thing, along with the soldering required?

First off it kind of looks like the packing nut and associated seal that it squeezes against the valve stem is missing. You could look into whether you could locate that part off a replacement valve. The strange washer arrangement on your current valve handle suggests that it may not be the original type for this faucet. It may be that a previous owner tried to replace a broken or missing handle and removed the packing nut (dumb decision) to make it fit.

Here is a picture of a valve with the packing nut in place and a diagram that shows the valve parts and operational detail.

Replacement of the missing packing nut is the best "easy" solution. The idea you had of trying to force in teflon tape is not a workable solution.

If you are able to source an exact replacement valve then you may be able to replace the "heart" of the valve as you call it. That part of the valve is removed by using a wrench on the two flats of that are part of the place where the packing nut is supposed to screw on. The replacement valve would have presumably have a proper packing nut in place.

If you are unable to find an replacement valve to steal parts from then you will have to replace the whole valve with a new one. This of course will entail cutting out the existing unit and then prepping, fluxing and soldering in new parts with lead free solder (aka silver solder). If you have to go to that extent I would highly recommend that you replace with a ball valve instead. Make sure it still has the removable bleeder port to permit draining the line in preparation for freezing weather. The one shown below has threaded pipe connections and you would want to get one with the copper pipe solder connections. Ball valves are easier to operate, give an visible on/off indication and are way less prone to leaks like you have.


Does an electric stove burner element wear out over time? I have an Inglis Citation Programmable Cooking Self Cleaning Oven stove model IUP 37500. It has two "high speed" and two "simmer" burner elements on the stove top.

Lately it seems that the "high speed" elements don't heat much on a low setting, or they take a long time to heat up. Once they heat up they seem fine.

Do these burner elements wear out in any way, such that they take a lot longer than they should to heat up?

The elements still heat up to full temperature especially on high. I checked the resistance of each of the four elements and they range from about 15-50 ohms.

They can indeed wear out, though it's much more exciting than what you describe - when the element in my oven (different location, same tech, 40+ years old) blew, it made a lovely arc, and I've heard people describe the same alarming thing happing on the stovetop, sometimes burning a hole in a pot.

I think what you are describing sounds more like the connectors that the elements plug into being dirty, worn, or generally connecting poorly - and once they start doing that, the connector heats up more, and that makes it more prone to corrode more, relaxes the springs, etc. making the problem worse.

There could also be a problem with the "proportional controller" which is what the setting dial adjusts - essentially a timer that sets the element on all the time on high, and turns it on and off when on lower settings, with longer off times and shorter on times at lower settings.