What can I use to build temporary walls in an unfinished basement? We have an unfinished basement in central Minnesota. The home was built in 2008, and the builder thought it fit to include XPS insulation covering all of the vertical concrete foundation. So far so good, and we're planning on finishing the basement sometime in the near future (a year or two).

But in the immediate future, we need to host a birthday party for our 3-year old daughter and her friends, and the basement's vast empty spaces look like a natural fit.

Here's the question: What can I use to temporarily cover the mechanicals (furnace, water heater, softener, sump pump, etc.) and have it look like some sort of wall? Doesn't have to be super-good-looking, but should hold up to a kid or two trying to break through. We aren't sure how rowdy her guests will be, and want to make sure nobody gets hurt.

We don't have any available materials at the moment, but I'm certainly willing to go buy whatever it takes to get this done. Funds are certainly a constraint, but I don't suppose something like this will cost a whole lot of money.

I did consider cloth sheeting, but that's probably only if there's no other option left.

Why not build a drywall curtain. Base plate pinned to concrete floor with a few Tapcon type screws. Studs wedged between base plate and joists. If wider than 4 feet, add a vertical stud. Cover in drywall. NOTE THIS IS NOT CODE AND MUST BE TEMPORARY ONLY!

Create a two or three sided room (but be sure to leave access, like a hinged plywood panel with a padlock, for emergency access to utilities).

If you plan on using this for more than one or two events, consider building real drywall structures (you know, 16 inch centers, etc.). If you skip the taping and mudding, these go up in hours, not days, and will work until you are ready for the real finish project. You do need to be sure to leave adequate ventilation around utilities and easy access. A prehung door also can go up pretty fast.


Are pipe unions made to a standard size / threading? Are two different pipe unions in a given trade size (1/2, 3/4, etc.) generally compatible with each other?

e.g. if you get a new 'half union' would its physical characteristics generally mate up with a pre-existing opposite-side half union from another manufacturer?

Note - I'm not asking about how the union mates with the pipe itself, be it threaded, sweat, etc. Just how the union halves attach to each other.

As far as unions from different mfg's of different sizes being compatable my experience is no they are not, even the same brand I checked going from 3/4 to 1" would not mate up I was able to find one that was 3/4 on 1 side and 1" on the other but next time I will probably just use a reducing fitting as the "special" union was more expensive than a standard 1" union and a nipple + a reducer but I had a space limited amount of room to make the repair so in that case I paid the extra. Also make sure if going from copper to galvanized to use a dielectric union. The failure of a home owner to do this in the past has caused plumbing failures in under a year in past repair jobs.


How well would a hydronic furnace work with a gas tankless water heater? My current heating system (in Ontario) is an oil hot water tank in a closed loop with a hydronic forced-air furnace (Enerzone XAH 68). The water circulates through what is basically a heat exchanger across which a blower blows air. I also have an electric tank for tap hot water.

How well would such a furnace work with a gas tankless water heater? If I add a second tankless for household hot water, is there any use for the electric tank alongside a tankless heater?

You can use a tankless boiler with your air handler. The fact that the heat is being distributed using forced air doesn't really affect how you generate the heat, and you should be able to retain most of the benefits of a tankless (i.e. you are not constantly holding a bunch of water at a high temperature) in this configuration.

If you add a tankless heater for domestic hot water, there will not be much use for your electric tank. There is only one use I can imagine: positioning the electric heater after the tankless (in terms of water flow) so that when you turn on the hot water tap you initially draw from the electric tank. This is done sometimes in order to supply hot water faster, as tankless water heaters can require some time to warm up. This sort of application generally calls for a very small water heater, so if your current water heater is designed to serve your entire home,using it with a tankless would probably be very inefficient.

One option you might consider is a combined heat/hot water tankless. I have a Navien CH-240, which provides both heat (via radiators) and hot water. It's small, quiet, and way less expensive to operate than the old oil boiler it replaced. The equipment cost of a combined heat/HW tankless will probably be less than two individual tankless units.


What could be causing my underground well house to flood? My underground well house (roughly 10' underground) filled up with water during August. My pressure tank is in this underground concrete box. Once all water was pumped out, well drillers replaced electrical control unit which had been under water. They drilled holes into the bottom floor of the well house to drain remaining water out of the box. Troubles determining where/how the water got in the box. Water is still dripping from inside top of concrete underground well house. Utility bill skyrocketed for month of August!!!!

Analysis is to dig down (6-10 feet) to the pipes feeding the wellhouse/pressure tank to look for corroded copper pipe leaking into the well house. Got any other suggestions?

If you have metal pipes, and the high utility bill would seem to indicate that your well-house filled due to pumping itself full, digging down to fix it would appear to be a logical approach - though I don't know that I'd be "looking for leaks" as much as "having dug the expensive hole, replacing all the pipes while the hole is open." As mentioned in my comment, I'd use polyethylene water pipe rather than any sort of metal in ground contact. The higher pressure grades are thicker wall, which makes them more durable in general, even if your water pressure is not nearly so high.

This part does not really have anything to do with fixing your leak: Having just replaced it, you won't want to change this part, but I'd also take a long look at not having any "electrical control box" in an underground wellhouse that's prone to flooding. That, however, typically requires changing the pump as well (depending on exactly what it is - if it's a "3-wire pump" and the control box has a capacitor/starter for it, you have to change to a "2-wire pump" - if it's just a pressure switch, you may already have a two-wire pump, and relocating the pressure switch might be all that's needed), and 2 .vs. 3 wire pumps seem to be a philosophical divide among well people. It's also more money on top of an expensive hole, and you may be fine if the expensive hole and pipe replacement means the thing does not fill with water again.


Order of second coat painting When painting with a roller, the perimeters are first painted with a brush.  If one is to apply a second coat on the perimeters, should the first roller coat be applied before the second coat on the perimeter?

I roll everything to achieve a consistent finish, or "stipple". Thus, I roll my brushed edging immediately after application, and along with the rest of the rolling, regardless of the coat number. The longer you wait to roll your edging the more likely visible brush marks become.

If you don't care about brush marks, the wall doesn't care in which order you paint it.


How to reduce noise on a warm air duct? My heatings system is based on 80mm inox tubes. The air is warmed at a central location and distributed through these ducts.t

The issue is that the air pump is a bit noisy. This noise is transported through the tubes and heard in the rooms.

Can I do something on the tubes to attenuate the noise propagation?

There are sound baffles that can be installed in your duct system.

Here’s a link that explains how they work: https://soundproofpanda.com/soundproof-air-vents/


Wiring a reliable temperature switched outlet I have an electrical wiring question.
Background: I'm building my house by contracting out the daunting parts. Through a lack of good communication with the plumber, my plumber ran most of my PEX pipes through the crawlspace under my house instead of the walls. I live in central Missouri, so the temperatures in my crawlspace will likely go below freezing during the winter. I've insulated the crawlspace, but I expect to need a small amount of electrical heat in the crawlspace to prevent the PEX pipes from freezing.
So I need a power socket that will reliably turn on once the temperature gets close to freezing, then turn off once the temperature warms up a bit. Let's say roughly 35 to 45 degrees F. I've found multiple cheap devices that will accomplish this, like the "Thermo Cube" and several products on Amazon (search for "temperature controlled outlet"). You plug them into a power socket, then you plug your heater into them, and they turn some relay(s) off/on depending on the temperature, I suppose. This seems like an easy solution, but I don't want to trust a cheap device with my pipes freezing. The reviews say that they fail after some years.
So, I want a more reliable option, and I think I can accomplish this by purchasing two different temperature-controlled switches and wiring them up in parallel for redundancy. Even if one switch fails (by not providing power when it's freezing), the other switch will provide power. Is there a way I can do this safely?
Here's what I'm proposing: I have a professionally installed GFCI outlet box in my crawlspace, which has 2 plugs. I'd like to install one temperature-controlled switch into each outlet, then wire the outputs of these 2 switches together into a single new outlet.

If the 2 source outlets came from different AC sources, or if the phase was mixed up, I know this would be a recipe for disaster. But if I can confirm that the 2 outlets have the same phase (i.e. the hot and neutral wires aren't swapped), and I keep all the electrical work tidy and capped off, it seems like this should be fine. Thoughts?

Unless you go to more expensive industrial products, you'll have trouble finding thermostats that operate reliably at near freezing temperatures.  Using a space heater to heat up the entire crawl space is going to be inefficient when all you need is to keep the pipes above freezing.
Heat tape seems like a much better option, it's made for this exact purpose.  There are lots of options available if you shop around.  Many work without a thermostat, the heating element automatically stays at a temperature just warm enough to keep the pipes from freezing.  The heat is applied exactly where it is needed.  You run it inside pipe insulation so very little of the heat is wasted heating the crawl space.


Dedicated wiring to luminaire - what's the minimum gauge I am wiring a luminaire fixture through a short dedicated 1/2" EMT conduit (a couple of feet). The maximum rating on the luminaire is 100W, although I expect to use much lower wattage. What is the minimum gauge wire I am allowed to use? Am I allowed to used something smaller than 14AWG in the conduit (say, 16AWG)?

You're logicking out that since the lamp can't draw more than 100W, a smaller wire size should suffice.  That is covered under the tap rules.

Metal conduit is required because the lamp could suffer a fault condition where it pulls too much current for its tap wiring but not enough to trip the breaker.  For instance if you had a 14AWG tap off a 125A circuit, and then had a 75A fault.

But this is all pointless if you can't find 16/18/20 AWG THHN which is actually cheaper than 14 AWG, and you probably can't.

Not least, because NEC does not allow wiring smaller than 14 AWG on any branch circuit.  Some cities have local ordinances increasing it to 12 AWG.

Within equipment is a different story, e.g. the interconnections within a chandelier.


New light bulbs light up even when switched off Edit:

I have confirmed that my main question is answered in another post. But there are still things that bother me.

Why is there a buzzing sound when the bulbs work?
The new bulbs do not light up in another bathroom with the same kind of dimmer switch. Why is that?

I understand these questions are tough nuts to crack without certain details that might be hard to obtain. For example, it might be hard for me to dismantle the existing switches and look under the cover or to know the brand/model of the switch.

I just replaced my bathroom light fixture bulbs with newly bought bulbs (LED, A19, 40W equivalents). What I get is a head-scratcher: the bulbs light up dimly as soon as I screw them on and the switch is off. If I push the switch on, the bulbs function normally, but with a noticeable buzzing sound. Looks like this:

I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with the new bulbs or the circuit. This is the box that the new bulbs came in.

My previous bulbs are of the same brand and the same kind (LED) but a higher wattage. My money is on that this has something to do with the switch. Most of my switches have a dimmer and a little LED that helps locate the switch in the dark. Does this mean I will have to go back to my old bulbs? Do I need to worry about the circuit?

The box says NON-DIMMABLE.
You have a dimmer.

LEDs are different from incandescents.

With incandescent bulbs, you can leak a little current through a light and it doesn't matter. You can vary the current and it works fine.

With LED bulbs, a little current goes a long way. So a very tiny bit of current leaked through by a dimmer "nearly off" or for indicator lights/electronics to work when "off" is enough to cause a glow or blinking lights. A larger current in "dim" mode can cause blinking, buzzing or other problems.

  Why is there a buzzing sound when the bulbs work?

Many dimmers work by, essentially, turning the power on/off very quickly. With an incandescent bulb that works great - "all the power 1/2 the time" is basically the same as "1/2 the power all the time" - i.e., 1/2 as much light. With an LED bulb, special circuitry is needed to figure out that "all the power 1/2 the time" means "1/2 the light" and not "turn the light on/off every time the power goes on/off. Depending on the circuitry, a non-dimmable LED bulb can react by:

Turning on/off a lot == blinking
Not working at all
Buzzing as various components that were not designed to turn on/off very quickly end up turning some of that energy into vibrations.

Return the bulbs and get ones that are marked DIMMABLE.


How do I avoid injuries working with a table saw? What are the most common mistakes newcomers make? Is there a safer alternative to a table saw?

There is, NOW, a big sign in my work area that says SLOW DOWN.

I was ripping a piece of MDF for a door panel and I mismeasured - 1/2 inch too narrow. Angry, frustrated, and in a hurry to get back to the project.

Remeasured, remarked, and mounted another panel to cut to size. Pushed the panel along the fence and didn't slow down to make sure the cutoff piece had cleared the blade.

The cutoff touched the blade and came flying back at me, hitting me in the face, hand and arm. Safety glasses saved my face, bad bruise on the arm and a cut along the side of my hand that needed three stitches.

After I got back from the hospital, the cutoff (with a big scar through it where the blade chewed it up) was left right next to  the saw with the legend, SLOW DOWN.

SPEED KILLS!


Does this look alright??? Does this meet code??? Electrical surrounded by water pipes I'm under contract for a house that needs some updating. A previous owner framed a full bath w/ shower around the electrical panel in the basement. The seller agreed to moving the panel & upgrading to a 100 amp panel. If the seller did not use our contractor we wanted to visit w/ the hired contractor & discuss paying the difference for the 200 amp panel we had originally discussed w/ our electrician. When we inquired about the process, we were told that the permit was already pulled for a 100 amp installation & the work already completed would have to be redone. When I stopped by the property today, they weren't completed, none of the wires were in the panel & they had moved it to the right side of the bathroom instead of the left. Now it is under & next to the old corroded leaking copper pipes for the washing machine & essentially in what will be our laundry room & right where I wanted to build shelving for my wife... Why would you move it out of a bathroom and into a laundry area??? Besides being mad that I didn't get the larger amperage I wanted & I didn't get the location I wanted... rant over... Is this up to code & okay the way they are installing this??? Seller is definitely saving money here.

This is compliant...

The 110.26(E)(1)(a) rule about dedicated space goes as follows:

  (a) Dedicated Electrical Space. The space equal to the
  width and depth of the equipment and extending from the
  floor to a height of 1.8 m (6 ft) above the equipment or to
  the structural ceiling, whichever is lower, shall be dedicated
  to the electrical installation. No piping, ducts, leak protection apparatus, or other equipment foreign to the electrical
  installation shall be located in this zone.

Note that it says that the dedicated space is equal to the depth of the equipment.  Since the box is surface-mounted to the plywood, this means that the dedicated space starts at the front of the plywood sheet (the side facing out towards you), and the piping behind the sheet does not infringe upon it as a result.

Personally, I'd deploy a NEMA 3 family enclosure here instead of a NEMA 1 to minimize the risk of problems due to splashing, etal, but that's just me being mildly paranoid.

but be careful where you put the washer!

However, the Code compliance of this also has to do with where you put your laundry appliances.  The washer needs to be placed in compliance with the 30" minimum width requirement of 110.26(A)(2):

  (2) Width of Working Space. The width of the working
  space in front of the electrical equipment shall be the width
  of the equipment or 762 mm (30 in.), whichever is greater.
  In all cases, the work space shall permit at least a 90 degree
  opening of equipment doors or hinged panels.

Note that this doesn't have to be centered on the equipment -- in your case, simply making sure that the washer is 30" away from the side wall and not putting anything else there(!) would be enough to comply.


adding light to 3 way switches My daughter's stairway has a ceiling light halfway down but basement landing area.  It's dark... it needs light.

I installed one of the new LED lights in the suspended ceiling, and ran its feed over near the basement 3-way, thinking I could attach there. That 3-way has two cables in the box. A 2-wire power from basement light, and the 3-wire going to top of stairs. The box at top of stairs has only the 3-wire. Can I add this light to one of the 3-ways?

Getting to the light fixture would mean getting in the attic, which I've done several times, but at 77, I'd just rather not crawl on ceiling joists :)

The only way to do this would be to go in the attic. The basement 3-way has the neutral you need and the 3-way at the top of the stairs has the hot connection to the light. You need both wires to make your additional light work and those are only available at the existing light fixture. There's different types of steel raceway that can be surface mounted on the ceiling but doing that on stairs would be more dangerous than going into the attic. Maybe it's time to train a young apprentice.


3 way switch terminals I was troubleshooting 3 way switches and I noticed this. On this 3 way switch, there is one black terminal( common) and 2 light colored terminals( for traveller wires). I disconnected both traveller wires and just left the hot( power supply) wire connected to common terminal. When I check for current using no-contact voltage tester, I see the current for all 3 terminals when switch is in on position.
When I switch to off position, only 2 ( common and one light color) terminals show current.
I don't understand why all 3 terminals of switch has current when in ON position. In any state , only 2 terminals should have current. One common and one ( of two) light colored terminal.

First off please be aware that the non-contact voltage tester will test for voltage present not current. When you have only the feed wire connected to the switch there is NO current flow at all.
The non-contact voltage tester can be triggered by adjacent conductor coupling where one conductor has a voltage present whilst the other is open. Inside your switch one position clearly puts internal metal parts in closer proximity that in the other position. The closer connections are allowing the coupling to the unconnected terminal making it appear that it has voltage present. This is one reason you need to take careful analysis of what a non-contact voltage tester will detect or not detect. To be honest it is better that the tester shows a voltage coupling than not so you have to pay close attention to what is going on.
Any conductor that is tied back via the neutral or safety ground connection will not be detected by the non-contact voltage detector because the wire is not open (i.e. has a low resistance path to the circuit return) and thus is not going to be subject to any possible coupling from a hot circuit conductor.
A non-contact voltage tester can be a good first level detection method. And it is normally recommended that before committing to its use each session to use the detector on a known powered circuit and one that is not just to make sure the thing is operating correctly. Beyond the first level detection there are other pieces of equipment that can give a more concrete circuit state determination. One of these is to use a digital meter. Note that a digital meter may still read a voltage on coupled conductors but normally a much lower level voltage than a conductor with a real voltage connection.


Why does the relief valve leak on my new water heater? This is the second heater I have installed in a two month period and the same problem exists. This is an electric heater. The original heater was taken out because it rusted out. Does anyone have any idea why the relief valve leaks when the water get hot. Its happened now on two new GSW6 water heaters. Maybe there is an adjustment on the the relief valve that I can do or something but its not normal for it to happen on two brand new heaters.

There are two scenarios,either the relief valve is working properly or it isn’t. Check the pressure. If it is too high the valve is doing its job and you will need to install a regulator. Does this problem happen only when hot or when cold as well? If only when hot and has been sitting unused for at least a few hours an expansion tank will help. If it is hot and leaking, open a hot water faucet and let it run for a few seconds, close it and see if it is still leaking.  If that temporarily solved the problem an expansion tank will help. If it didn’t help it is either too hot or too much pressure.


Dark (damp) spots on concrete basement floor I live mid-block (houses on both sides), in a 1906 city row house with brick basement walls and a cement floor. We never have water in the basement. We have dark spots that get lighter and darker but never 100% go away. They are clearly moisture that is coming up through the floor at certain places.

Tests have shown the cement is about 33% wet in those dark spots. They are all at the front of the house. Outside, the tiny front yard is field stone and slopes away from the house, so no water is getting down around the front foundation. In the back, the outside level matches the interior and there is no standing water there (and no dark spots at the back of the house anyway).

What is causing the dampness and what can I do to stop it...before I finish the basement as usable space?

I have had issues with small springs under slabs, yes the dark spot is moisture. The tough thing if it is always there most sealers need the pad to be dry to seal properly. I have had really good luck on several of my own homes with 2 part epoxy applying in late summer. The worst place I would pull gallons of water out of my dehumidifier, once coated with 2 part epoxy paint their was hardly any moisture in the air being removed. The concrete has a high ph so mold is usually not a problem but in an older home the ph may be low or ~8 (when fresh 12-15). But mold in not usually a problem on a clean pad.


Will standing topped off tree trunks work for holding up a building structure? If I cut four trees off about 15' above the ground, and they are approximately in a parallelogram, Can I use them to support a building structure (say, a large shed)?
Would I have to treat against rot?

The main concern here is not the load bearing capacity of the stumps, (which will not be a problem) but obviously the rotting of the wood over time. Essentially rot, is caused by moisture loving Fungi and Bacteria which feed off the wood. So if you can keep the moisture of the wood down, there is no real problem.

With that in mind, if the stump was enveloped by the structure of the house, and there was no run-off onto that area from rain, I would comfortably say that the stump would last the lifetime of the structure. you can further improve the situation if the wood is of a rot-resistant species like cedar, locust, cypress, oak etc.  and then the diameter of the stumps would also play a part.

If you can, it may be a good idea to dig a few inches around each stump and lay a cement casing around each stump under the ground to ensure that any ground moisture does not affect the wood.

termites, wood cracking, and new shoots may also be a hindrance if they are not controlled also.

So the simple answer (and a bit of a cop out) ... If you can control the moisture. it will work. if not. based on the lay of the land, wood species, stump thickness, climate etc... the stump will begin to deteriorate from the word go...


Why do my lights dim, when my neighbor's central AC turns on? I understand that the lights would dim with a dryer or large AC on my own circuit system, but is it normal for that to happen when my neighbor's central AC turns on?

I validated the timing (hearing it from my window and seeing the lights, and it's even when there's nothing else on in the house.

You and your neighbor may very well be on the same power mains feed. Any heavy current draw on one branch of the circuit will be seen as a voltage droop back up the line toward its source. As that droop passes the point where your mains connection joins in with the neighbor's mains your branch will see a corresponding droop in voltage. This can lead to a dimming of your lights.

This type of voltage droop will always exist in power feed circuits due to the resistance in the wiring. The designer of a power distribution system simply selects wiring sizes with low enough resistance (i.e. fatter sized wire) to keep the droop small enough that it does not create annoying and functional problems with devices attached to the power source. It would appear that in your case the power feed system is not designed with large enough wiring to keep droop to a tolerable level for the loads it is expected to supply. Often the case is that a power distribution network may be designed for a certain size of expected loads. Then later someone comes along and adds heavy duty loads that go way beyond the designed to capacity of the circuits.


Can I span a gap between pipes with heat tape? I have hot and cold lines running parallel to each other.  Can I start heat tape on one line and then "jump" 4 inches to the other line to finish the installation in order to use the entire length of a 3 foot heat tape run

There are 2 types of heat tape the self regulating type can be in open air and even cross over itself. This type changes its resistance based on temp so it won’t overheat.
The current based type more similar to lots of small resistors creats heat and depending on brand most can not handle non contact or wrapping on top of itself.
I would verify what the manufacturer states as things may of changed since I started purchasing self regulating heat tape about 15 years ago.
The self regulation is not the temp sensor in the cord that is used to reduce energy consumption with temps above freezing.


Can I use 18/2 and 20/2 in the same lamp? I am re-wiring a very old lamp.  The lamp has two curved arms that come out of a center cluster.  The area they all come together is very small, with sharp turns.  I can get 18/2 wire through one arm, but there is not enough room for the wire from the other arm.
Can I use 20/2 wire in each arm, and then attach them to 18/2 in the center?  I have to use a pre-wired switch at the bottom of the lamp.  I assume the switch uses 18/2 wire.
Each arm wnds in a small chandelier socket that will have a 25 watt chandelier bulb.
Is it safe to use 20/2 wire in the entire lamp?

When you state 20/2 and 18/2 are these cables? 2 conductors of fixture wire would be the way I would go high temp rating and easier to fish through the fixture arms. 25w on a 120v circuit would draw less than 1/2 amp 2017 NEC 402.6 states fixture wires shall not be smaller than 18 AWG. Table 402.5 shows 18 awg as 6 amps max.


Do polyphosphates reduce scale in refrigerator ice makers? I am considering switching to a polyphosphate-containing water filter for my refrigerator ice maker/water dispenser. Currently, I use softened water to prevent calcium build-up in the ice maker/refrigerator, but would rather not in order to reduce my sodium intake.

So, would polyphosphates greatly reduce the calcium buildup in my ice maker? (I'm worried about the low temperatures affecting their effectiveness). Or does it work only in hot water boilers? Should I use some other chemical based on my water chemistry? Or is it junk science?

My water pH is 7.4-7.7, with about 400 ppm of CaCo3 (in West Lafayette, IN).

As an alternative option, you can use Potassium Chloride instead of salt in your softener.

(On a side note, by my math two liters should only have under half a gram of sodium at that hardness)


How do I polish a marble table top? I have an old 42" diameter round marble table top which I would like to restore. It is very dull and has deep scratches. On some of the edges, tiny chunks have come off.

I would like to know if this is something I can do myself with a drill and a flat backing plate for circular sanding?

Deep scratches and broken edges are a bad sign.  If you want to learn about stone polishing, this would be a good learner project.  Don't expect to be able to craft a Michelangelo.  A matte finish would be reasonable, and expect to leave the deeper scratches in place.

Matte marble finish should be polished out to 1500 grit.  Gloss finish out to 3000 and buffed

These diamond pads are meant to be used wet and no higher than 4000 RPM.  Buffers are the usual motor, but there are a few angle grinders that are variable speed and slow enough (Metabo and Makita).

A velcro back is handy to changing the pads.


Will the original ceiling box in my 1939 home support a new 45lb chandelier? I recently purchased in a house built in 1939. The electrical boxes and wiring have been replaced, but the ceiling support bar holding up the box looks original (i.e., flat steel bar attached to the joists). Can this support the new 45 lbs chandelier I want to hang?

The following picture (NOT from my house) is an example of my situation, but I do not have access above the ceiling like the picture.

If the support is as you illustrated, the weight is being held by screws through the support and vertically into the ceiling joist. The load is being held up by screws pointed upward. The strain is downward. All that is holding up the weight is the wood around the threads of two (or maybe four) screws.

In general, wood screws do best when the load is shear (perpendicular to the direction of the screw). Pullout loads are especially vulnerable in older wood that may be deteriorating over time and getting powdery. 1939 is not so old comparatively, but this situation is not ideal.

You might want to consider a replacement box and support that wedges between two joists such as this one. On 16" centers, they are rated for up to 150 lbs and 50 lbs. on 24" centers. For fans, they are rated for less (70lbs. on 16") because of dynamic stresses.

These can be inserted in a 4" hole.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Do you connect light stability wires to ground nut? I'm installing island lighting, and the instructions don't say where to connect the stability wire. We just screwed in with the green nut, along with the ground copper wire from the ceiling. Is this ok? Should we just wrap it around the mounting bracket instead?

That is a ground wire and should be connected to the equipment ground. If you have a metal junction box then it should also be pigtailed to the ground.

Since the fixture you have does not have a permanent mounting method and hangs by a hook, then it requires an external ground wire. Hence the bare wire.

Attaching it to the green screw is fine if you have a metal grounded box. If the box is plastic it should be wire-nutted to the bare or green equipment ground wire.

Good luck and be safe!


At what height should a door knob be? I'm installing a few new doors, and bought slab doors to save some money. I have a jig for boring the door knob holes, but I'm not sure where on the door to put the hole. Is there a standard height for door knobs?

According to the International Building Code, door knobs should be between 34" - 48" above the finished floor.

International Building Code 2012
Chapter 10 Means of Egress
Section 1008 Doors, Gates and Turnstiles
1008.1.9.2 Hardware height.
Door handles, pulls, latches, locks and other operating devices shall be installed 34 inches (864 mm) minimum and 48 inches (1219 mm) maximum above the finished floor. Locks used only for security purposes and not used for normal operation are permitted at any height.


Excessive water pressure Recently installed a new electric water heater with an expansion tank.   Water coming into the house is 52 psi, the line that runs to outside faucet is the same pressure but the faucet in the sink after my water heater is at 140 psi and the pressure release valve has a small constant drain and I have am at a lost as to what is causing this.

Sounds like you expansion tank is failed or not pressurized properly. I suggest draining the expansion tank and checking the pressure. If you get any water out of the air valve, your tank has failed.


fire door between garage and residential living space! Can a solid door, under 1 3/4 inch thick, Designed-Equipped with a plexiglass-like panel, ever be accepted as a fire rated door between living space and a residential garage in California? I assume the Plexiglass disqualifies the fire rating!

While the non-rated glazing panel may or may not be OK here, I would shy away from it myself
While 2016 CalRC R302.5.1 (similar to 2015 IRC R302.5.1) does not require a fire-rated door for house-to-garage doors, it does require a solid wood or honeycomb-core steel door in such an application if a fire-rated door is not used and the house is not sprinklered:

R302.5.1 Opening protection
Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) in thickness, solid or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors, equipped with a self-closing and self-latching device.
Exception: Where the residence and the private garage are protected by an automatic residential fire sprinkler system in accordance with Sections R309.6 and R313, other door openings between the private garage and the residence need only be self-closing and self-latching. This exception shall not apply to rooms used for sleeping purposes.

Given the situation, (a door that's otherwise OK, with factory fitted glazing), I would consult with your local AHJ about it, as it's a pretty...borderline call. Were I the AHJ, though, I would not permit non-rated glazing in a house-to-garage separation due to the rapid failure of ordinary glazing materials when exposed to fire.  The good news, though, is that if you know what to look for, fire rated doors are available with matching vision panels in this day and age.  And you don't have to settle for wired glass, either: a decent glazier should be able to hook you up with a fire-rated specialty tempered or specialty fire-rated/security laminated vision light in your door instead.


Should I build a shield to protect building wire installed inside cabinet? I had a new custom made cabinet installed and it forced me to move an electrical box from the wall to the inside of a cabinet. Work was done by an electrician. The outlet is now on the outside of cabinet and here is the work inside the cabinet:

Is this a correct and safe way to do this ? Any suggestions to improve safety?

I was thinking of adding a little wood boxing to contain the outlet box and wire to increase safety.

Thanks for your help, I'm very new at this!

This is perfectly fine and quite safe. The metal box could even be sitting out in the open and would be just fine. I have a similar setup in one of my kitchen cabinets. The only concerns I know of are:

Drawers - This does not appear to be the case here at all, but if you have a drawer that can bump into a cable when it is opening/closing then that would be a problem.
Loose Cable - Also not a problem here. Even when it is a problem, it is usually not a problem to fix. Cables basically need to be short (as is the case here - just a couple of inches extra which is good in case anything ever needs to be changed) or secure and out-of-the-way (and this is clearly out of the way).


Weird set screw on single handle bathroom faucet I have a leak in my single handle bathroom faucet.  I can't find any stamp or marking on it to indicate the manufacturer.  Turning off the hot water fixes the problem short term.  I have found some great online tutorials for repairing all potential types of these sinks, but I can't get the handle off to even begin to work on it.  We have several Allen wrenches but none fit.  It does not appear to be a typical screw, or maybe it is not a screw at all?  It looks like a post that is threaded around the outside with a perfectly round hole in the center that is not threaded.  The faucet is only five years old and I don't want to replace the whole thing if it can be avoided.

The bright spot in the middle is a post that seems to prevent inserting an allen wrench.

It looks like a tamper-resistant hex screw. There are specific wrenches for these.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Is It Okay To Keep Relighting The Pilot Light on A Water Heater? My Water Heater is old and about a year ago it stopped relighting automatically. I have been putting it on vacation mode, pushing down on the knob and clicking the restart pilot light button, turn it on & then turn the dial on thermostat mode. It stays on for about 15 minutes or more and then goes out. Sometimes it says on for a day or two but goes out. I have been doing this for a year. Is this okay to do or should I replace it? Thanks!

[

You should properly repair the problem. You are dealing with gas, there is some risk in that. You're also burning your time messing with it so often.


Why nut with gasket on tile cutter wheel? I just purchased this replacement cutter wheel for a Sigma tile cutter:

You're supposed to put the bolt in the device with the wheel so the bolt acts as the axis. My 2 questions are:

What's the purpose of the gasket on the nut?
Which side am I supposed to put the gasket on? Facing the wheel, or facing away from the wheel?

Nylon insert lock nuts are the full name of the nut. The Nylon inside the nut prevents the nut from working itself off the bolt due to friction and compression. You would want to install the nut with the round side facing away from the bolt head.


How to clean dryer ducts . Home is built on a slab My home sits on a slab, I can only assume that the dry duct runs from the wall and under the house ( no crawl space.). there is a large pipe that exits the house on the outside where the cap is located.. How on earth do I clean that duct out..It doesn't look like there are any curves.. but who know.. My dryer is taking much longer on high setting to dry clothes..

It's very important to clean your dryer air duct at least annually.  Accumulated dust in them is a common source of house fires.  Usually they come apart in sections.  Typically what you do is remove the sections and vacuum or brush out the dust.  They also make telescoping dusters that have a round duct-sized brush on a flexible wire that you can use to push the dust through.


Wiring for New Thermostat I just bought new programmable z-wave thermostats (Honeywell TH8320ZW).  I thought I had the wired correctly, but I woke up to a pretty chilly house this morning.  The fan is working, but it seems to be blowing cool air.  Here is a picture of the original wiring for the upstairs thermostat:

Full disclosure:  A year ago, I replaced this thermostat, but realized I had ordered the wrong thermostat, so I put the old one back.  There is an outside chance that I wired it back incorrectly, but that would not be typical of me; also I have not noticed it not working properly.

Here is a picture of the new thermostat wiring as I have done it:

Can someone help me figure out what I did wrong?

OK, I figured out part of my problem, but it presents another question.  I have not configured the thermostat (I know stupid mistake, but in my defense those pages were stuck together in my manual).  However, there does not appear to be a configuration in the manual that matches my wires.  The closest appears to be 2H/1C Heat Pump (with aux heat).  If I am correct, and reading the foot notes correct, I need a jumper between E & Aux, and the L is optional.  Am I correct?

2H/1C Heat Pump (with aux heat) seems like the correct option, as it sounds like you have a heat pump and a secondary heat source (furnace, etc.).

The jumper between E and AUX makes it so that if the thermostat calls for emergency heat, the second heat source will be used instead.


What could be causing my condensation dryer to have standing water under the heating exchanger? Our zanussi zdc68560w condensation dryer leaks water from the heat exchanger. There is water in the water tank but also some is leaking from the front of the machine and sitting water under the heat exchanger. The black cardboard/plastic  underneath the machine is a bit bent near the right hand side. Is something blocked or another cause?

Condenser dryers generate water, just like an air conditioner does. If water is leaking out, then either the water collection tank is full and overflowing, or the drain is clogged and overflowing.


Do two 5k BTU air conditioners produce the same cooling power as one 10k BTU unit? Could you interchange 10k BTU air conditioner with 2 5k BTU air conditioner and get the same result? Or is there a reason why buying one 10k BTU air conditioner is better than having 2 5k BTU air conditioners.

The 10k A/C will have a larger compressor, but only one fan, one control circuit, etc.  Two 5k A/Cs will have two smaller compressors, two of everything.

I suspect that as a result, the 10k will be more efficient overall.  What you should look at is the power consumption of each - then double the 5k.  I expect that overall the 10k will run for less than 2 5ks - but I may be wrong.  Depends on the power drain of the various components...


What is a single pole 30 amp breaker used for Is ok to us a 30 amp breaker single pole according to NEC

Of course it is OK to use. What you use it for is the question.

You CANNOT user it for general purpose 15 & 20 amp receptacles.

Basically, about the only things you can use one for in a residence would be for a TT130 120V/30A travel trailer receptacle circuit.

Problem is, we see them installed quite often for 20A circuits that are overloaded and tripping. People with no clue about code or safety replace 20A breakers with them.


Shower drain removal with no rubber gasket I'm trying to take out a shower pan. I have the drain cover off but am having trouble with the drain itself. Everything online suggests that I need to drill some holes and shimmy the gasket out to free the pan from the floor.

But my drain has no such gasket. It seems like instead there is a soft metal, I can drill into it but have not had much luck loosening.

Does anyone know what this is or how I can remove it? The home Was built in the mid 80s and I believe the shower is original.

Thanks!

Katy


How can I safely install a frameless melamine wall cabinet that has a thin pressboard backing, and no hanging rail? This frame-less wall cabinet is melamine with a thin press-board backing, and it has no hanging rail. The press-board backing is set back from the rear of the cabinet about 5/8". The cabinet seems pretty heavy for it's size.
It was a shop project about 20 years ago and just takes up workbench or countertop space; not sure why anyone got an "A" on it without a way to mount it! I'm sure that if I just screw through the press-board to mount it, it will simply break and tear through the press-board, even if I fill the space behind the press-board.
It will be a stand alone, with no cabinet or wall next to it, so I can't screw through the sides.
I'm thinking that if I glue and screw a filler behind the press-board, it might hold, but it still won't be attached to the cabinet except for the thin backboard, and I just don't want to have to worry about it once it's hung and filled with misc. hardware.
Any great ideas would be welcome!

Install a "cleat" on the wall and hang the cabinet on the cleat. Screw through the thin backing into the cleat. The cleat would be thick enough to protrude slightly past the sides and top. One or two screws holding the cleat onto the wall would ideally be into a stud. Two other screws holding the cleat could be into drywall near the ends of the cleat to resist rotation.


Changing bulb in shower ceiling light fixture I have a light fixture in the ceiling of my shower.  (see pic)  It has a cage over the glass dome, which I was able to remove so okay there.

Problem now is that I cannot seem to get the glass dome to turn either way so I can take it off and put in a new light bulb.  I have tried pulling down, no luck.  I tried turning the glass dome counter-clockwise as it seems logical, but the whole fixture spins in the ceiling.  I am worried I will mess up the wiring if the whole fixture keeps turning.

Has anyone changed a bulb in one of these fixtures?  Can you help me out?

Are you sure the whole fixture is spinning? The type of light rated for wet locations used to have a rubber seal and screw fittings. Most of the time the "jelly jar" type fixtures the glass needed to be unscrewed (and they do get stuck and feel like they are going to break). There were some the metal ring was threaded holding the glass in place. So it could be that you need to unscrew the ring. Also check the ring for a small set screw to lock the Glass / ring in place.


How can I build a partition wall in room without damaging marble floor I have large room size in my home, 12'x 22'. Now I want to rent it and therefore, want to divide the room in two with a partition wall.
Is there any way to build a permanent partition wall on marble flooring without cutting or damaging it?

If you don't want to damage the floor, the best way around this is to attach your bottom plate, usually a 2x4, to the floor with construction adhesive. Then add your studs and top plate. You could also just assemble all the framing on the floor and then raise the walls, using construction adhesive for the bottom plates, walls and ceiling if desired. The wall would be permanent but could be removed without damaging the floor


Cause of only hot or cold water from bathtub faucet? I'm only getting extremely hot water or extremely cold water out of the bathtub faucet. the sink in the bathroom is fine. What causes this?

Usually a bad cartridge in the control valve.
Those can be replaced, with more or less trouble depending on design and the particular installation.


Adjusting Craftsman Garage Door Motor Height Travel Just bought a new garage door opener and it opens about 6 inches short than what I want it to.  I read about adjusting the travel screws, but this model has no travel screws on it. The model number is 139.54930. What is the proper way to increase the height of the door?

Here's the manual. On page 29 it shows the following:

On page 30 it describes how to check and adjust the reversal mechanism. I suggest that you do so.


What adhesive do I use to mount a glass pane in shed? I’m replacing a shattered pane of glass in my shed. When removing the pane I noticed it was held in with some adhesive, in addition to the plastic that was pushing the pane up against an aluminum frame.
I’m just wondering what kind of tape or sealant I’m supposed to use when putting the new pane in.
Here’s a picture of what was on the original glass.

In the olden days (read: until a few decades ago), most windows were built and repaired with glazing putty. It's basically rolled in the palms until warm and in a rope, then pressed against the glass-frame joint with a putty knife or other flat tool. You'd use a smaller bead between the back of the glass and the frame, too, as a seal.
The outcome is ideally something like this, which seals against airflow and sheds water:

More on that
Nowadays (inasmuch as we re-glaze anything in the first place), you can use glazing tape. It's quicker, less messy, and maybe more suitable for beginners. If you use glazing tape you may still want to run a bead of silicone around the outside to lock things together more robustly.


Plugging holes in Top Plate wood? So I was running Ethernet around the house, and there were a couple of places where the top plate holes were incorrect and I had to redrill (holes no bigger than a 3/4 an inch). I got everything drilled right and ran....however what should I plug the other couple of holes with? (Just to get them filled). I doubt it did much structural damage (since it's just a single hole), but I still feel like I should "fill" them with something?

Is there some sort of wood filler? Or something? I know I should use fire-retardant foam where the ethernet cables come through...but right now just concerned with the holes that are just open.

Code requires fire retardant foam in new construction nowadays. If you have an older home where that was not required, you could leave it or fill it with standard caulk, if you feel you must do something.


6" recessed can light to track light I have a single 6" can light which isn't good enough for our needs in our entrance hallway. I want to know if there is a way to convert it to a track light and that way attach multiple lights to the track?

I tried googling, and I found things like

but it seems that suitable for changing a recessed can to a pendent... we want a track.

I saw this,

(or these http://www.bellacor.com/track-lighting.htm) but I don't like the design(s).

I'm after something a bit more simple/sleek like

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/89/898b12d5-9ef9-47c5-8d2a-dd5974d1a8d8_1000.jpg

Can I get a 6" recessed can adapter that is universal for track lights? Do they exist?

P.S Even better would be 6" recessed can to a track light extension (drop the height of the track 6" from the ceiling).

Caveat: I've not done this, nor do I know NEC. I'm basing this off my experiences

I think the pendant conversion kit might suffice. Your track lighting (the second one, not the first) will be screwed into the ceiling directly. The pendant adapter uses the hot and the neutral of the light socket and then probably grounds off the fixture itself (hence the metal clip). Your track lighting would simply pigtail to the wiring adapter.

The catch here is that the cover for the power adapter is probably not large enough to cover the hole for the can light. And the track might not sit flush over the metal adapter in the picture (if it's flat it might, but if it's not flush with the ceiling, or a convex cover, it probably won't). So it might not look very neat. I'm not sure if they would make a cover large enough, but you might be able to fabricate one from a flat plate if needed (i.e. cut the plate to size, cut a hole in the middle and then screw to the fixture)


How to build a CMU wall to specific size? My current design for a garage is 24' by 24'. There are 2 garage doors on the front 9' in width, with 1 1/2" on each side to install them into. This leaves 66" for the front facing CMU wall, which is split into three sections of 22" each. These sections are thus slightly shorter than a standard CMU, mortar joint, and a half sized CMU (23 5/8"). How are situations like this handled? Do masons cut down a solid 6" by 8" by 8" to size?

Yep, you cut them just like bricks...with a brick hammer. Just score around the block with a chisel or the hammer's straight claw & it either pops right off or just needs a whack. You'll might have to break a few to get it right, because they don't always break clean since they aren't as fine a material as brick.

But, there's no problem in chiseling them shorter or cleaning up the cut to fit.
And yes, you can also mix in Solid CMU's or just portions of them. That's why they're called Concrete Masonry Units & not just the single type of "Cinder Block" anymore, there's a large variety of CMU's. Really whatever works is right as long as it's tight.


Hiding cables when moving network switch down from attic We had an installer put in security cameras a few years ago (PoE-powered), and he decided the best place to install the network switch would be in the attic, since that made wiring the cameras easier (because they are all under the eaves).

The problem is that it gets extremely hot in there during the summer, often up over 100 degrees (F), and the network switch is rated to operate only up to 104. We have experienced connectivity issues to some of the cameras, and my first thought is that the switch is dying due to its environment.

In any case, we are now installing more cameras (and probably IP phones in the near future) and need a larger switch. I am currently planning for 16 cables to go up to the attic, and am installing a 24-port switch to give future room to grow.

I have selected a location inside the building to install the new network switch (inside a sound-dampening network cabinet because it is in a public space), but I need to figure out how to run the wires down out of the attic.

Here are the options I have considered at this point:

Make a hole in the ceiling and pass the whole bundle of cables through it, then run them down to the switch inside a wire wrap or raceway. This is the easiest way, but then how do I seal the hole from the attic into the conditioned space? With a hole that size, the specific concern is bugs getting inside from the attic. (We have had problems with all kinds of bugs in the attic, including wasps, and we don't want to allow them inside.)
Mount a large wallplate on the ceiling with as many RJ45 keystones on it as I need, then run patch cables from those keystones to the switch. The benefit of doing it this way is that the wallplate provides a good barrier between the two spaces, with extremely small holes. The downside of this method is that it takes up a lot of space and looks bad. One of my requirements is to make this installation as unobtrusive as possible.
Mount a large wallplate on the wall behind the switch with the RJ45 keystones. This has the benefits of the first idea, but this way the wallplate is not visible. However, I am not sure I want to drill enough holes (or big holes) in the top plate of the wall to be sufficient for that many cables to come through.

I really want to do the first option just because it is the easiest, but having an open hole is a major issue.

What is the best way for me to go about this? Is it one of these options? What can I do about the issues mentioned for each one? Is it something else entirely?

What I ended up doing turned out to be the simplest solution: picking a different mounting location.

In the new location, the network cabinet is mounted directly touching the ceiling, and the cables go directly through the drywall into the cabinet.


Transformer location I've got a very basic question - I have a 120V to 24V transformer https://www.functionaldevices.com/products/building-automation/details/TR40VA040/ and on the transformer surface it calls out "install in metal box only". So my understanding is that it's supposed to be screwed into the metal junction box, but the transformer itself is to be located outside of the box, possibly in the wall cavity, like pictured here:

Is this a correct way of positioning the transformer? Or does "in metal box" mean literally "inside of the metal box"?

That is exactly right.

The purpose of this arrangement is to put the mains voltage on one side of the "Great Wall Of Separation", and the low voltage on the other, as called out  by the Code requirements for (not) mixing low voltage and mains.

However, as Tyson points out, the junction box must remain accessible and have a cover.  I assume this is unimproved space, or you are putting a box extension on it to raise it to the finished wall surface. Burying the entire junction box and transformer behind drywall, that is no-go.


How to add C-wire from Laars mini-term Folks, I am having problems connecting my Nest thermostat to a boiler.
Given Laars Mini-term JVS series with Temperature Control PCB Module (pictured below)

When I short Com call and Heat call wires the boiler starts working. Being a naive person I would expect to detect 24v AC, however my multi-meter shows only 2.6v which is not enough. I have only 2 wires running from this controller to a thermostat.

Question 1: How do I connect my thermostat to something that does have standard R,C, W1, W2, etc. terminal?

Question 2: Is it possible to supply required voltage via these 2 wire to power off the thermostat and without damaging the controller (additional gadgetry is OK)

Question 3: Looking carefully in the middle of the PCB controller legend shows "hopeful" R,C,W2,W1 PCB connector which must be on the opposite side of the device. It is not easy to reach and therefor can't be a standard interface to the controller. Am I correct?

I found one solution that I don't like but it will probably work.

With only two wires between the thermostat and the boiler, you're not going to be able to power the thermostat, and call for heat.  You'll need at least three wires for that.

The C terminal on the controller is likely the COM terminal, though I can't say for sure. According to the schematic, pin 2 of the PCB connector is C. But I'm not sure where it's routed from there on the board.


Why do I have 5 wire in my wall socket? I am renovating my cellar. The electrician wired the room a couple of years ago and until now i´ve not had the money or time to finish it off. I was looking at the wiring for the wall sockets today and realized that for every box there is at least 8 wires stuffed into it separated into 2 groups of wires. 1 group of wires has 5 colours...brown, black, grey, green/yellow and blue, the other group had green/yellow, blue and brown. I mostly have double sockets so this setup is then repeated for the second socket next to it. How do I install the socket...what is grey? My wall socket has only 3 input holes...so what do I do?

Thanks for any advice.

Do NOT touch the 3 hot wires together.  From what I have heard, unlike the US, Germany provides full 3 phase power to residences.  That means those three hot wires are each 120 degrees out of phase with each other, so touching them will create a short circuit.  If you use a multimeter to measure the voltage from one to the other, you should see somewhere around 200 volts, and 220 between any one of them and neutral/ground.  Regular outlets in Europe are 220 volts, so they are only wired to one of the three phases, and neutral.  Different outlets should each use a different phase so the load is roughly balanced between the phases.


Is it personal preference or code to connect grounding wires and neutrals to separate buses? In my main panel all neutral wires are connected to one bar and all ground wires
are connected to another bar. is this just a personal preference or the proper way
to do the job.

At a sub-panel, the separation is mandatory.

At a main panel, it's optional because the neutral and ground bars are bonded, and are allowed to be the same bus, so it is legal to blend them together.  However... If that panel is ever made a sub-panel, separation makes things a whole lot easier, not least, it assures you left enough wire length to reach the right buses.

Separating neutral and ground also reflects that the person actually understands what they're doing, rather than simply blindly following recipes by rote.

The core concept is that Neutral Is Not Ground.  They are completely separate things which must be isolated, except in the one place they are intentionally bonded for a specific purpose.

So when you see Irish spaghetti** on the neutral bar, that tells you the installer doesn't really have the reason for the rule at the front of his mind.

** Irish flag being white, green and orange(copper)


Can I install a GFCI outlet next to my fuse panel, and run the circuit i need from it? I have a 100 amp fuse panel, and I want to install some GFCI protection to some areas of my home. I was wondering if anyone has tried installing GFCI outlets next to the fuse panel, in a proper box of course, and continuing from them to the circuits they want to protect, just as if they were installing one for the basement circuit?

There's nothing inherently wrong with this plan

The NEC just says that GFCI protection is required for such-and-such circuits.  It doesn't specify whether a receptacle, breaker, or deadfront device is used for that job; in your case, since you are dealing with a fused panelboard (aka fuse box), you can't use GFCI breakers, so you need to use a receptacle or deadfront device instead, wired as a feed-through.  Deadfront GFCIs may be preferable to receptacles in this application (to avoid a profusion of receptacles of confusing provenance near your fusebox).

But, it doesn't scale as well to that other interrupter device

However, the situation changes slightly when you start considering AFCI protection.  Receptacle-type AFCIs are available; however, they fall into a different class of devices than their breaker-type brethren.  In particular, receptacle-type AFCIs are universally Outlet Branch Circuit (OBC) AFCIs.  These are limited in their protection capabilities compared to breaker-type Branch/Feeder or Combination AFCIs; however, Code allows them to be used as the sole arc-fault protection means in retrofit situations, or if the "home run" to the first outlet is in a metal-clad wiring means (such as metal conduit or armored cable).

Also, receptacle-type devices are available that combine a GFCI with an Outlet Branch Circuit AFCI.  These may be worth considering in your retrofit situation, as AFCI protection is required on most dwelling unit circuits under current NEC rules.


How can a "class 320" service legaly/safely supply two 200 amp panels? I have a "class 320" service with a single 320A meter that feeds two 200A main panels in parallel.

USA, Evergy (formerly KCPL), Built 2014

How can a 320A service safely supply 400A of downstream loads?

The main panels should each be able to safely supply 200A.  De-rated to 80% that's 160A each.

Is that where 320 comes from (160x2) if so, can the meter safely handle momentary/short lived loads of 400A?

If so, why don't they call it a class 400 service instead?  My panels are sold/labeled as 200amp panels, not as 160amp panels with a 200a breaker.  Why the inconsistency?

Continuous vs. Peak ratings

The discrepancy you are seeing here is a function of the difference between the way meters and sockets are rated and the way breakers and panels are rated.  In particular, meters and meter bases are designated with their continuous ampere rating.  A Class 200 meter and meter-base is rated to have 200A run through it 24/7/365, for instance.

This is different from circuit breakers, where a 200A breaker cannot be guaranteed to stay closed if you have it sitting there 24/7/365 with 200A running through it (save for special "100% rated" circuit breakers used in some heavy-duty applications).  This is one of the major reasons the NEC has continuous load derates in various places (generally 80% of the marked rating).  Furthermore, panel busbar ratings generally work in this fashion, too.

So, you'll see cases where the rating of the metering hardware and the rating of the service-entrance hardware don't appear to match.  Smaller sockets will be rated for 100A continuous and used with 100A or 125A services, or 135A continuous to allow usage on 150A services; all of this uses a Class 200 meter as that's the utility's "go to" meter for light-duty work.  That Class 200 meter will also be used with a Class 200 socket for some 150A services, as well as 200A and even 225A services.  There are even dual-disconnect or tap-lug configurations that allow a single Class 200 meter and socket to serve 250A of load!

Then we get to your case, which is a 400A service using a Class 320 meter and socket, used for any maximum (Article 220 computed) load between 225 and 400A.  Larger loads than 320A continuous/400A peak require something other than a self-contained meter and socket though.  Some utilities use extended range metering using what's known as a K-Base meter, rated for 400 or 600 continuous amperes, while others simply revert to what's known as current transformer or "CT" metering for all services larger than Class 320, using a box with special transformers in it to step the current down so that a special transformer rated meter can accurately meter it without having the meter in the main current path.  Transformer metering requires more work from the utility and more parts, but provides much more flexibility, allowing it to be used for services of any size at any voltage rating.


My split A/C unit doesn't drain much water My split A/C unit used to drain much water when it was new. Now, the unit drains much less water than before. I checked the drain line and it isn't clogged. Also, the cooling efficiency is slightly lower than before.

You need to find out why the cooling efficiency is slightly lower. Offhand, I'd guess it's a clogged filter.

If it's low on gas, it will freeze up the coil and produce less water (and not work very well), but a whole bunch should come out when it shuts off and melts This should happen within a few minutes, so don't walk away, while you:

Let it run for a good while, and then set the fan to on and the A/C to off; what happens? If lots of water starts coming out, you're low on gas and your coil is freezing up.

You can confirm this by removing the panel from the coil, and you'll see it's all froze up. Seeing frost on the 'fat' line (at just outside of where it enters the coil) is a good indicator, too.


How do I prevent this bath faucet from leaking while the shower is running? Here's a photo of my setup:

The hose and nozzle hanging down in the picture make up the shower head assembly (it is a hand shower that can hang up on the wall or be removed for directed use). You'll note that the shower is running, but a good portion of the water flow is still leaking through the faucet (with a corresponding loss in pressure at the shower outlet) even though I have the diverter set as forcefully as possible to direct water to the shower head.

I'm assuming that there is some component inside the faucet that needs to be replaced, but I'm not sure which and/or how to go about it. Any suggestions?

You need to replace the diverter, which in your case is also part of the spout. This should be a relatively easy and cheap replacement. Usually the spout is held on with a set screw located in the bottom - you loosen the screen and the spout will twist/pull off.  Replace it with a new spout and diverter, tighten the screw and enjoy!


Is this electricity box near shower dangerous? I'm remodeling bathroom, and rewiring, but I don't understand much about electricity in bathroom. In the picture you see a white plate on wall covering some kind of conduit or circuitry that leads wires from outside to lights and plugs inside the bathroom. Looks dangerous to me so asked electricians and they said it's fine to have electricity in bathroom. Is this correct?

I've researched and seems in some countries you can't have electricity or outlets in bathroom, but I plan to add two outlets near sink with power coming from this "junction box" thing or whatever it's called.

In general this is a bad idea in large part because metal drains cause you to be a conductor to ground and water provides various ways for the exposed wire to make contact with you. However if the junction were grounded AND the ground were protected with GFCI then this would pass as safe. Most code still doesn't allow you to have outputs or junctions near running water that are not GFCI.

If you rewire simply don't expose a junction (that includes any broken wire in the walls) near the shower. You can pass insulated wire within the shower facing walls however.

I'm going to guess this junction was on purpose to provide either power for a shower heater or for outlets but since was covered up.


Does code allow for in-wall mounting of low voltage transformers? I am asking if NEC code permits for in-wall (gang box) mounting of low-voltage transformers and power supples, and if so do these product have a name or term?

My use case is low-voltage electronics mounted to drywall: a small car amplifier, an Arduino, Raspberry pi, some 12v LED strips, powering car-type DC accessories.  I am looking to hide as much wiring as possible.

I realize you can't dissipate unlimited heat in the wall. 55 watts - the Class 2 limit - comes out to 12v 5.5A if I did the math right and that's easily enough power.

As examples of failed terms I tried: "doorbell transformers 1 gang" and "in-wall Power over Ethernet supply". We've all seen the 4-port USB 1-gang devices - I want that for 12v.

Please do not answer with specific products/links. I am asking if these things EXIST and whether I have been calling them the wrong name. I have already posed this question before but it was deleted over the holidays (reason: "no shopping for links") so to avoid that experience again I need this strongly worded disclaimer. :-) Thanks all!

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/180414/does-anyone-make-a-12v-in-wall-gangable-power-supply-like-the-usb-ones

By the way, 55W heat dissipation is not allowed inside a 1-gang box.  The 55W restriction is not about that, it's about something else.  Other than that...

Nothing in Code prohibits this

But I'm not aware of any products that offer this in 12 volts DC.  The lingua franca of low-voltage wiring in the US is 24 volts AC, and always has been.  They certainly do make that in a "junction box cover" form-factor; however it's pretty industrial looking since it's made for installation in unimproved spaces, and the low voltage side (and often the whole transformer) sits on the outside of the box.

In any case, any such product should include the necessary dividers, to keep low voltage and mains rigidly separate.  LV and mains are allowed in the same multi-gang junction box if a divider is physically installed.

I'm concerned that such a thing might not exist.  Fitting inside a gang-box, it definitely has to be UL-listed. Going through the UL listing process may be too onerous for a niche product with a limited market.


Why would a GFI blink red A detached garage on a property was recently wired with a 220 circuit to accommodate lighting, washer, and electric dryer .

The problem is the GFI for the washer blinks red.

Effective June 29, 2015, all GFCI receptacles and circuit breakers must have an auto-monitoring (self-test) feature that automatically conducts a periodic internal test to confirm that the GFCI is able respond to a ground fault. If a problem is detected, the GFCI must trip and deny power or provide a visual and/or audible indication.

Green Status

Dual indicator:

On initial installation - If no power to load, device has been wired incorrectly
Normal operation - GFCI has passed self-test and is providing power

Red Status

Blinking = Initial self-test upon first power up
Solid or blinking = Press TEST and RESET buttons to reset GFCI
If GFCI will not reset OR solid or blinking red continues, replace device

No Power

GFCI in tripped state, no power
Press RESET button
If GFCI will not reset, no power on the circuit

Self-Test Indications:
If the Status Indicator Light is solid or flashing RED a problem may exist. Press the TEST button to trip the GFCI. If unable to Reset, replace the GFCI.

NOTE: The status indicator may flash Red at power "ON" and Reset.


Can I wash and continue to use dishes that were in a sink with a brush used for varnishing? A brush used with varnish has been put into a sink, full of water with dishes.
The dishes have not come into contact directly with the varnish, but with the varnish diluted in water. Is throwing all away too drastic? Is it enough to wash them normally? Should I wash them with white spirit?

I don't know much about the varnish, just that it's white varnish for wood/metal.

Varnish is usually a mixture of a drying oil, some resin such as pine tar, and a solvent such as turpentine.
The drying oil most likely won't kill you. The most commonly used oil, linseed oil, is actually just non-food-grade flax oil by another name.

The Greeks put pine tar in their wine, and it's a tasty treat.

The solvent is a little more troublesome. The pinene in turpentine for example, has a nasty looking chemical structure. However, Solvents, by their liquid nature are pretty easily washed off, epecially when you put plenty of soap in your water.

I'd give the dishes a good washing, and use them without a second thought.
I'd also try not to leave a paintbrush in the kitchen sink again.


How to wire multiple 240V, 20A electrical baseboard heaters I have two baseboard heaters to install on a 240V, 20A circuit. One heater is 1500w and the other is 2000w.

From my panel, I leave the 20A breaker with 12/2 wire to reach the first baseboard. Obviously I will be waiting for my electrician to come and do this but I am curious as to how both heaters will be plugged.

Will these be plugged in series? If so, how does he do this?

P.S: Located in Quebec, Canada

You would not normally wire two heaters that are rated for 240VAC operation in series on a 240VAC power source. Instead they would be connected in parallel along a daisy chain of wiring like shown here. Note that the below does not depict the safety ground wire connections.


Is this wall load bearing? See photos I'm looking to tear down the wall between my kitchen and dining room, and I'm wondering if it's load bearing.  If so, it's a 9' section that I want to remove.  Would two 2x10s with 1/2" plywood between them be sufficient, or would I need to go with either 2x12s or LVLs?  See the pictures below.  And if you need, I can take a picture of the floor joists from the basement.  This is the first floor of a two story colonial.

Thanks!
Chris

I wouldn't trust a random individual on the internet to correctly identify bearing walls. There are general guidelines for identifying bearing walls, but many exceptions to the rules.

Get a competent person in your kitchen to look at the structure. From there, you can figure out the engineering.


Replacing steel expansion tank with diaphragm expansion tank. Is location critical? This morning I noticed a very old, closed, steel expansion tank in the boiler loop is leaking. Looks like the leak is coming from the side of the tank and not from the plumbing. Not sure if that can be repaired or replaced easily so was wondering if a more easily found diaphragm expansion tank could be used instead.

I have a Weil McLain CG series gas hot water boiler system. The manual shows two different setups for when using a closed tank or a diaphragm tank.

My system isn't set up with the expansion tank in either of those configurations. What I have looks like this.

There's no pressure regulator on the main incoming water line and therefor the hot water heater doesn't have an expansion tank on it but at some point I'd like to add both.
I do have an automatic air vent in place on top of the boiler.

Can I just replace the steel expansion tank with a diaphragm expansion where it is? How important is the placement of the tank in the heating loop? Getting it connected under the circulator as shown in the diagram would be a real pain. I was planning on shortening the piping run to the old tank and placing it along that run.

The old tanks had to be pressurized to provide an air space the newer bladder based systems are better in my opinion and will work fine as long as rated for the temp/pressure.


Are these screws for bracket enough to support adult queen bed? Picture of bottom right corner showing the foot board and side rail connected with the bracket, and the bed, at https://imgur.com/a/XtlnM1Q and couple more pictures https://imgur.com/a/BMBi8KX.

The brackets are https://amzn.to/37PJbA3. The smaller screws that came with it were about 1/2" but I used 1 1/4" instead. The wood is pine, 1.5" thick.

My concern is whether these screws will shear or will get pulled out of the wood, after a long time of using the bed (frequent getting in and off loads, tossing and turning over night, etc.). I was wondering if I should switch these to structural screws of the same size, or bolts/nuts/washers so that they go all the way through these vertical side rails and can't be pulled out of the bed.

I asked someone at a big box store and he said what I have should be more than enough and the small screws are just used to secure the brackets to the wood and not really carrying the load, but I figure of course they are carrying the load being transferred from the brackets. He also said drilling all the way through for bolts may split the wood.

What is the diameter of the screws or size?  1-1/4" screws will have plenty of withdrawal strength and since there are 4 or 5 you really don’t need more than 3/4”. Wood screws that will fit the holes will provide plenty of strength. Since you have 1-1/4” those brackets will be stronger than the 2 pins they hang on.


Continue to use hardwired smoke detectors? I am going to replace all the old hardwired smoke detectors in my house.

In my research I have found some of the features available include 10-year batteries and dual sensor types (photoelectric & ionization) .

However the 10 year battery doesn't seem to be available in a hardwired detector.

Would it make sense to switch to the 10 year battery model, which means not using the pre-existing wiring in my house? Even with a hardwired system there are batteries to replace annually, so moving to the long life battery would be nice. But I feel like it might be silly to ignore the hardwired setup that I already have.

I strongly recommend continuing with the AC with battery back-up models. They are required by code for new construction (in my area) for a very good reason- the potential for someone to remove the battery. Also, they are available with a wider range of features, such as described in your question.

This battery removal behavior is very common in rental units. So much so that landlords now are obliged to pay for replacement batteries, to remove any financial incentive for not replacing them.

Even if you will personally be in control of the units, you might decide to remove the battery for some reason, then forget to put it back. Most of the AC units let you know (with an annoying chirp) that the battery back-up is dead or is not installed, whereas "battery only" units just sit there dead with no indication to the user that it is not functioning.

10 year batteries are available for you to install in your AC w/battery back-up units:


How do I prevent water from collecting against side of house? Our house has a concrete patio (I'd say about 12' x 10') in the back that is very slightly angled in so that rainfall can cause water to collect where the patio meets the back wall of the house.  What are my short-term and long-term options for addressing this?

The only thing I could think of would be to elevate/resurface the patio near the house to redirect the water away from it.  I'm a beginner DIY'er and am not sure how exhaustive of a procedure that would be.

In the meantime, I'd like to make sure that the exterior of the house doesn't become water damaged. Is there a sealant I can use to protect where the patio meets the house? Caulking perhaps?

If the cost of raising the patio is too great you could get an angle grinder or perhaps a better choice would be renting a concrete wet saw and cut out a strip about 6 inches wide from the edge that meets the house wall. As @woodchips points out in his comment, make sure you wear gloves, safety goggle and a mask for this. It'll get hot, but it's very dusty work and the saw will throw up chips of concrete.

Remove all the concrete and put in a gutter that will collect the water and direct it away from the house to the drains.


Installing a light+fan combo switch - red, black, white wires I've started installing a fan that has me stumped. I'm not great at electrical, but have installed several fans. This is the first true combo switch I've tried though (the others being a remote-combo kit).

Here are some pictures (sorry for the size, not sure how to shrink them on here):

Things I've tried:

switch-blue -> red -> blue  |  switch-black -> black -> black (switches reversed, smelled burning electrical so flipped the breaker)
switch-blue -> black -> blue  |  switch-black -> red -> black (seems to work, but the fan control doesn't actually do anything, the fan just stays on)

Fan Model:  5DI52BSD-L

Switch:  ESSWC-5-WH

(both are Monte Carlo brand)

If I use a normal single switch, attach both the blue and black from the unit to the red from the ceiling, everything seems to work fine still.

Any ideas what's going on?

Your fan control must have let the magic smoke out

That smoky smell was your fan control failing -- fan controls and dimmers typically are short-circuits when they fail, so that's why the fan ran at full speed when you tried the fan control the second time.

Leave black wired to black and red wired to blue in the ceiling box, then get another fan/light combo control and use it instead of the burned out one.  You can leave the normal light switch in for now; when you get the new fan control, just remember to wire the fan side to the black wire going up into the /3 cable, the light side to the red wire going up into the /3 cable, and the incoming hot to the black wire from the /2 cable; don't forget to hook up ground to the bare wires and neutral (if present on your control) to the white wires, for that matter!


How do I remove adhesive from outdoor concrete deck that is textured? I have an outdoor deck that had the old green carpet truf glued down. I removed it some time ago and want to remove the adhesive from the concrete, it has the brushed finish so the adhesive is in the texture how would I remove the old adhesive with out using chemicals and scrapping?

I think your best bet in this case is a pressure washer.  If that doesn't work by itself you can put some solvent on it to soften it up, let it sit a few minutes then pressure wash.


Old bathroom gas heater - how to cap it off? Our bathroom has a very old gas heater...it has a cast iron grill and I believe a ceramic element.
Here is a picture from Pinterest of a similar one...this is not my bathroom.

You can see the gas valve control on the bottom right of the unit. You turn it and gas starts to flow.  You then stick a match into the ceramic element and it lights up.

We recently had our house tented and the gas company had to come back to turn on the gas. As part of their service, they go back into the home to make sure that all gas appliances are okay to use again. When they saw the heater in our bathroom, they inspected it and tagged it, stickered it as a hazard.

I want to keep the unit there because it's a nice decorative element to the bathroom. However, I have young kids and I don't want this hazard to be there. We already removed the valve knob so that no one can turn on the gas. However, I would really love to just disconnect this appliance from the gas line altogether.
Our house has a crawl space and I can go down there to find the gas line to it.

How should I cap this off? Should I cap it off inside the appliance? Or should I cap it off somewhere in the crawlspace?

While in theory gas fitting isn't very different from other kinds of plumbing, the consequences getting it wrong are obviously much worse. If you care about safety enough to want to disable this heater, I strongly suggest that you also care enough to want a pro to deal with disconnection and capping of the pipe.

If there's a valve in the line as well as in the appliance, closing that is an alternative. More easily reversible, and possible to DIY ... though me being paranoid, I'd be inclined to carefully check for signs of leakage after mucking with that. (Soapy water test at least, preferably a gas leakage alarm)

Quick thought: if you ever turn that heater back on, might be worth having a carbon monoxide check done, and tuning it to minimize that.


Wood burning stove pipe through the ceiling and roof I have a 16 x 22 cottage in Minnesota. Bought a small wood burner. Only one place inside to put the small wood burner. But, it is directly beneath a horizontal stud/joist of the truss. Would have to cut 14 inches of it out for square support box. Is there a way to block it in or not. Will I compromise the truss completely? Again, small cottage 16 ft wide and 2x4 run across the width. 24 in on centers in the ceiling. Bob

Yes you will compromise the truss.

Each pipe supplier, if not, the stove supplier should have the allowable amount of elbows and the distance it can be offset with the elbows. Although I have only seen this with the insulated pipe behind walls and with additional supports. What you need may not look the best, but if it is allowed, it will keep your truss from failing should it be cut.


Will 2, 10kA breakers for stove requiring a 50 Amp breaker Can I run a 50 Amp stove on dual 10kA breakers? I’m an electrical idiot and know just enough to be dangerous.

"10KA" means 10,000 amps.  Is is an extreme conditions rating for the breaker.  It means that if your range suddenly has a massive problem, and causes a dead short, causing thousands of amps to flow, the breaker is certified to be able to interrupt it if it's less than 10,000 Amps.  If it's 20,000 amps, the breaker might not be able to interrupt it.  Some power companies claim to intentionally use thin enough wire or small enough transformers that 10,000 amps is impossible.

So it's sort of like the ZR rating on your tires, the tire won't explode if you drive 185 miles per hour.

You can't use two singles on a range

You can't use 30A+ singles for anything, really.

However if you got a factory made "handle-tie" to tie them together, you still wouldn't be able to use them for a range, because it is a 120/240V load that uses a neutral wire.

You would be able to use them (handle-tied) for certain other large loads, such as heat pump emergency heat, on demand water heater, etc. which do not require neutral.

So sell them on eBay and get a 2-pole.  Expect to pay $10 (unless they're GFCI, AFCI etc.,  however if they were, you can't use singles at all).


Attach piece of wood to wall, with need to be removed often I need to attach some timber (pine) to a wall. It is for decoration. The straightforward way is to use screws and wall plugs.

However, once a month, the timber will need to be removed, some decoration added to it, and then put back.

How can I find a secure way to attach it, but keeping the ability to remove it often?

Are there some special wall plugs that resist well to many unscrews and screws? Or maybe another way?

French Cleats

Could you use a french cleat? They are commonly used for demountable fixing of items to walls, including quite heavy items.

If necessary, they can be recessed so that they are entirely invisible

They are easily made from wood but you can also purchase aluminium or other metal sections designed for this purpose.

Threaded inserts

You can put a threaded insert into a wooden stud (or into a wall cleat as above). This allows you to use a machine screw (bolt) instead of a wood screw.
A machine screw into a metal insert will stand up to repeated removal and replacement better than a wood screw.

Just one (or two) of these could be inserted into a wall cleat and used to lock the other cleat into position.

Alternatively, if you have wooden studs in convenient positions you could use these directly in the stud. It might be a little fiddly to align everything when reattaching your item to the wall.

Some inserts are hammered in, some screwed in using a hex drive (allen key).
You need to drill the correct sized hole to receive the insert.


How do I cut lengths of wooden beading lengthwise? I wish to replace some missing beading in a stairwell. I've only a limited amount of equipment and experience, but I figured I could get a mitre saw and some matching wooden edging and the right stain, and it would be a simple job to match the existing beading.

When I went to buy some edging, I couldn't find anything that matched a piece that I pried up from the floor.

The top piece is from the existing stairwell. It is sitting on the closest match I could find.

The guy at my local timber place said the existing beading had been cut to shape.

How do I cut the bottom piece to match the cross-section of the top piece? Do I need a table saw? The longest piece will be about 1200mm long.

(This job just became much more difficult! Have I given up too quickly on finding a match?)

The piece you have may have started life as the piece you just purchased and was ripped down to its current width.

The best tool for this is a table saw. It would be very difficult to do it any other way. many home improvement stores will cut down wood to custom lengths and widths. They may be able to cut it down for you in the store if you do not have access to a table saw somewhere else.


What type of paint to use when painting on a shiny veneer, to produce the least odour? What type of paint shall I use when painting a non-removable, wooden shelf with a shiny, dark-brown veneer? I want to apply white colour. The problem is that the shelf is almost non-removable and it is in the bedroom, so I don't want to smell the oil paint in the night. Any suggestions please?

Solvent based primers are the way to go on top of Poly or other clear coat.  If you don't want to deal with the smell though you will need to sand it well and apply a surface prep fluid.  I personally use a product called no sand (yes I still sand before I use it).  This softens the top coat you are working with allowing a latex paint to stick better.  It will still not be as durable as it would with a solvent based primer.

If this is a high traffic shelf (a bookshelf that is used often for example) I would suggest finding a time you can sleep in another room and use the better primer, that said if it just holds pictures or decorations then you can get away with the method mentioned above just fine.

Make sure you read the directions on the no sand well.


Door closer for a door that is not leveled to the wall. I would like to put a door closer in a door. The problem is that the door is not like a normal door as the one below:

the door has no walls to its side or above it. It's like a door in the middle of a tunnel. Like this:

Because of this I can't use a normal door closer like the one in the first drawing. Do you guys know of any door closer that can be used in a door installed like this?

If you have normal or near normal hinges, you may be able to use a hinge mounted door closer. They exist in many forms, with published ratings for doors weighing from 30 pounds to as much as 150 pounds.

One model does not require a hinge installation and appears to be mountable on the door frame.

The photo shows the heavy capacity version. This particular unit is found on Amazon (US) for a rather reasonable price, considering the capacity is listed at 150 pounds.

The above site also shows an installation video of about four minutes. Disregarding editing, it seems likely one could install this closer in four minutes.

Adjustable tension, various colors, seems like a great product.

If this doesn't meet your requirements, the search terms "hinge mounted door closer" should find something that will.


Can you install a steel beam in timber posts? I'm planning to remove a load bearing wall and place a 4500 beam. Steel is stronger than timber and I should be able to use a thinner steel beam than a timber beam. Does this make sense and how do I attach it to the timber posts and rafters?

You have several issues to consider: 1) span of steel beam vrs. wood beam, 2) weight of steel beam vrs. wood beam, 3) connectors, 4) ease of connecting joists to wood beam vrs. steel beam, 5) ease of installing wood post vrs. steel post, 6) size of footing under posts.

1) Yes, steel beams can be smaller than wood beams when carrying the same load and spanning the same distance. However, if there is a headroom problem, you can move the beam up and have the joists frame into the side of the beam or reduce the span of the wood.

2) Physically moving the beam into place is going to be difficult. A steel beam may weigh less, but with a wood beam you can nail supports to the side of it to keep it level, aligned, stable, etc. Also, if the beam needs to be cut to fit, wood is easier.

3) Connectors from a steel beam to a wood post will need to be custom and probably designed by a structural engineer. However, a connector from a wood beam to a wood (or steel) post is readily available and standard through Simpson Strong Tie. (See Simpson LCC or CCOS connectors for wood to steel posts.) See here: https://www.fastenersplus.com/shop-by-product/simpson-connectors/post-bases-post-caps/lccccos-lally-column-caps

4) Connections from wood joists to steel beam is not standard and you’ll need a structural engineer to determine ledger size and bolting, plate size and bolting, etc. Whereas wood to wood Connection is standard.

5) When wood posts are cut to fit, they must be the perfect length. Fitting a wood post with a connector on it is very difficult to “pound” into place and fit tight. However, using a “Lally Column” allows adjusting in place.

6) If you are trying to span an extra long distance by using a steel beam, your footing will need to be extra large too. Make sure it’s sized properly.

Summary:
Generally for ease of construction, the beam and posts are reversed: wood beam and steel posts.


Paint/stain used for wooden planter? I built a large planter using untreated wood. Before pouring the potting soil into the planter, I have to paint the the planter with something that will protect it from the soil, the humidity, etc.

I would need to paint the interior to protect the wood from the soil, but also doesn't poison the soil and/or the plant.

I would also need to paint the planter exterior to protect it from the elements (sun, rain, termites, etc).

What do you suggest I paint it with? I prefer painting the whole thing with just one paint, instead of using two paints.

I'm not saying this is the best, perfect solution, but if you do want a paint to protect the inside of the planters and not harm the plants, you can use a spray on "pruning seal" product.  It's designed to seal up large wounds in a tree, but the spray can will also mention spraying the inside of a planter to waterproof it.  I've used it before to waterproof the inside of a wooden bowl to create a small cactus garden.

You can apply several light coats to build up thickness.  If you try to spray it too thick, it takes forever for it to dry.

(randomly picked example image, comes from several brand names and is the same stuff as far as I can tell)


Can I tap in to a interior wall outlet for outside I want to tap in into a wall outlet that I don’t use and add a outside outside. I’m using it for a electric grill that requires 110 volt, 60hz, 275w, 5 amp service but I don’t know if I will overload it. What should I do before?

Yes But keep in mind that the outside outlet must be GFCI protected.

If the inside outlet is not GFCI protected already you can replace that inside outlet with a GFCI outlet and attach the outside outlet to the load terminals of the GFCI.

To prevent overloads you can do a check for what else is on that circuit and add all the Watts together and divide by 110. This will give you a worst case current draw. If that is less than 90% of the rating of the breaker there is no issue of overload.


Material for stud cavity cold air return I'm totally aware of the arguments for and against stud cavity air returns so I don't need opinions on that, but I do need an idea of the best material for lining the outside of the stud cavity with. Is sheet metal the only option or is there something else you can use?

Thermopan and similar material is a good alternative to sheet metal joist lining. It seals better and doesn't tin can like metal joist lining.

![enter image description here]

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4Yw1.jpg)

http://www.thermopan.com/

It's ba fire rated cardboard but it works well.