Find the model for an unknown (non-Häger) wall thermostat? I recently bought a house, after years in a flat. Many things are novel to me, especially the heating system. The digital thermostat is of an unknown  brand, the former owner could not tell me (I suspect he did not use it), and I am looking for a user manual. It looked like a Häger screen to me, so I sent them, and they answered it was not.

Do these pictures ring a bell to someone who could help me find the model? Top-left: view without the slidable panel to uncover the buttons; Top-right: slidable panel turned +90° (probably a sticker made for the French); Bottom-right: inside view; Bottom-left: zoom on the printed circuit.

The model is a "Thermostat programmable hebdomadaire castorama", as shown in the below image (found on the Internet). A closely-related manual (not the exact model, but the same functionalities) used to be available under address http://www.castorama.fr/media_aux/810203_a1.pdf, but not anymore. My own copy is here.


What type of product should I use to seal/protect the wood interior of a outdoor office? I'm in the final stages of building an outdoor office (yay!).  Here's what it looks like:

The wood is supposedly "nordic spruce" according to the manufacturer.

I'm planning to prime/paint the outside but I want to leave the interior as natural wood.

I understand that specific product recommendations are note appropriate for this site but can someone please tell me what type of product I should use for the interior?

Additional details:

Temperatures in my area can range from 30 - 95 degrees Fahrenheit. I'm based out of Santa Cruz County, CA, USA.
I'd like something that can be applied with minimal coats and that will last for several years (if not indefinitely).
Ideally, I'd like to start moving furniture in shortly after sealing so it would be helpful if the material was low oder and quick drying.
I'd prefer minimal/no gloss.

Is there anything available that could meat this criteria?  I think "Stain" is the wrong type of product since I'm not trying to change the color of the wood.  I thought "varnish" was more intended for small furniture.

Well, there's always "nothing" - very quick, low odor, and no gloss to speak of. About as natural as natural wood can get.

Next up from that would be boiled linseed oil, or paste wax, or boiled linseed oil mixed with paste wax. I prefer "bowling alley wax" as it does not have the abrasives that most "floor wax" does, and clear .vs. amber as I don't want to change the color of the wood.

If you are wanting to "seal" it I suppose there are deck "sealers" that are clear-ish, but they are primarily exterior and may not be particularly low-odor (and at core, I suspect they are silicone & wax in a carrier of some sort.) I'd rather just wax it with paste wax.


How do I prepare concrete walls before applying water-dispersion paint? I had a concrete wall painted with white water-dispersion paint. Every here and there the old paint was chipped and dark gray bare concrete could be seen.

I got a can of white water-dispersion paint and coloured it into light-green tone. The instructions on the paint say "prime the surface, then apply two layers of paint". That's what I did exactly. The wall looks great now except that the dark gray concrete can be seen through the paint layer (yes, not only the surface is not flat, but also dark gray concrete can be identified through two layers of paint) - looks like the paint doesn't block light that much. The parts of the wall where the old paint wasn't chipped look just great.

How should I have prepared the wall so that those dark gray regions of concrete were not visible through new paint?

More coats of primer might have done the trick. Paints have different levels of coverage/opacity.

If you wanted to even out the texture, that is harder; maybe some sort of skim coat over the entire wall, to unify it? Or pre-paint/joint compound/etc. over just the areas that were chipped.

I don't know whether you can add additional layers over your existing paint; the can may give more info about overcoats.


Do I need a regulator to connect a tankless water heater to a 20 lb. propane tank? I am going to hook a tankless water heater to a 20lb propane tank.  Do I need a regulator coming off of the propane tank?

@Pigrew is right in the comments.  My previous answer was wrong and dangerous. Do not supply 30 psi of propane to a tankless water heater.

New Answer:

According to Rheem (a manufacturer of tankless gas water heaters) and The West Virginia Propane Gas Association, modern homes have a 2 psi supply line from the meter with regulators on each piece of equipment to lower the pressure more.  Older homes could have a much lower pressure from the meter negating the need for regulators on each piece of equipment.

Pressure in a propane tank, large or small, can range between 100 and 200 psi.

An example tankless water heater specs list a maximum gas pressure of .5 psi.

Once we get into pressures this low, people start using the unit inches of WC (Water Column) instead of psi.  The standard pressure that household appliances typically need is 11" WC.

You will need two regulators.

You will need one regulator to take the tank pressure (up to 200 psi) to down to a household line pressure (2psi).  You will also need a regulator to take the household pressure down to the 11" WC needed by your hot water heater.  The reason you need two is because that is a large pressure difference and there are limits to the abilities of regulators.

There is a bit of fudge factor though.  You could get a regulator that outputs 10 psi fir the first one if you can get a regulator with an inlet pressure over 10 psi (and outlet pressure of 11" WC) for the second one.

There is another factor to consider when choosing a regulator: flow rate.

All of this adds up to the suggestion that you call a professional because explosive compressed gas in your home where your family sleeps isn't the best thing to be playing around with.


Can metal ball casters be covered? Can I do anything to these casters (on my parsons dining room chairs) to make them safe on solid oak hardwood floors? Maybe adding some sort of a rubber ring to the raised tread or even covering them completely so they don't roll at all?
(btw...removing them is not an option.)

I am also considering trying out this on the very remote off chance it could work on my type casters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SOJIZC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

You might like "caster cups"

You can get them in a variety of colours, sizes and materials including transparent plastic.

For chairs that need to be slid in and out from under a table, you might need a type of caster cup specifically intended for that purpose

  The only castor cup where the wheels stay in the cup when furniture is moved

- From advertisement for "MagiGLIDE CASTOR CUP 4 PACK". I have not tried this and don't know if it is suitable for the intended use or whether the claims are justified.

Castor cups are usually cheap - it doesn't hurt to try them on one chair. You don't lose much if they turn out to be unsuitable.


Line-neutral vs Line-Line same voltage I have a 3 conductor (Line1, Line2, ground) (240V) wire that goes to a step-down transformer to get 120V. Since the transformer output is 120V between its line1 and line2 and there is no neutral, does this affect what kinds of devices can be plugged in? Hope I explained that clearly enough...

Assuming you have a traditional, isolated transformer with separate primary and secondary windings, the output of your transformer as currently configured is floating, meaning that while there is 120V between line1 and line2, the voltage from either of those to ground could be anything, and can change over time.  If you want to make it a traditional hot/neutral setup, you can bond one of the two output lines to ground.  If you're wiring this as the input into a breaker panel, make the bond there -- this makes it a main service panel, from a separately derived service, rather than a subpanel.  The bonded lead then becomes your neutral, and the other is your 120V hot.

If instead your transformer is really an autotransformer, where the primary and secondary windings are actually the same thing, then you cannot ground one of the outputs.  In this case, the voltage is not floating, but where exactly it is depends on the transformer's construction.  I'd recommend measuring from each of the hot leads to ground to see if one of them is at 0V already, or if they are each approximately 60V from ground, or something else.

To check if it's an autotransformer or a regular transformer, check if there's any continuity between the primary windings (input) and secondary windings (output).  If there is, then it's an autotransformer.


Can multiple grounding electrode conductors be placed on the same ground lug? Couldn't find anything in the NEC 2017 that forbids it, but wanted to double check:
Can multiple grounding electrode conductors (thick multi strand is the outside-ground-rod wire, thin single 6GA is the water pipe bond wire) be placed on the same lug (green) on the Square D QO main svc panel (QO142M200PCAFVP)?
I could put the waterpipe bond wire on one of the side ground bars, but if I don't have to, I want to leave it where it is.

That lug can’t be double-tapped.
Large wires can generally never be double tapped.
Check the labeling on your panel for the list of sizes allowed for double or triple tapping on which lugs. Don’t expect wires larger than #10 to be permitted.
You must obey panel labeling and instructions NEC 110.3B.
If your wire can’t reach, feel free to use the vacant screw hole just to the right of the main lugs to mount a lug e.g. a double lug.  Electrical supply houses stock those.  It is probably a #10-32 screw.
You can also drill your own holes, but must be -32 thread pitch or finer. Nobody ever got fired for using 10-32.


How can I tidy up a hole in drywall that has pipes coming through it? We recently bought our first house and have discovered that the previous owners replaced a radiator with a heated towel rail that's plumbed into the house's central heating system. The issue is that a gaping hole in the drywall that was previously hidden behind a radiator is now clearly visible. The pipes are also quite snug, so there's not a massive amount of play in them:

Is there a way of making this look less ugly?

From the picture you've posted it seems to me that the real problem is the plumbing of the pipes to the towel rail that needs to be sorted out.

You'll probably have to cut a bigger hole in the wall to do this anyway, so what I'd do is mark a squared off rectangle that has it's vertical edges on the studs. Use a sharp knife and a metal straight edge to cut the plasterboard (drywall) back to this rectangle.

Sort out (or get a plumber to sort out) the pipe work so that it looks less ugly and uses metal (probably chromed) pipes where it's visible.

Then get a new sheet of plasterboard and cut it to fit the hole - again using a metal straight edge to get a good line. You don't have to cut all the way through the sheet in one go. Use the knife to score through the paper and a few millimetres into the plaster then give the board a sharp tap. This will break the rest of the plaster along the line you've scored. You can then use the knife on the other side to score through paper and complete the cut.

Screw this into the hole and fill the gaps with a sandable filler (unless you have a lot of experience plastering you'll struggle to get a perfect finish just by smoothing the filler).

It doesn't look like the existing wall is skimmed - so it's difficult to say what you should do as a final finish.


Can I use alternative materials to insulate my roof? We bought a mobile home to use for my office/studio workshop. It's 24 by 60, gutted out with no inside walls, and live in a desert area. The roof leaked and the insulation got wet and ruined. We cannot afford 1000+ to buy new insulation. Have been looking into shredded newspaper, pillow or mattress stuffing, polyfiber fill for quilts as I can get stuff like that cheap enough. Anyone ever do anything like that?

Have been looking into shredded newspaper, pillow or mattress stuffing, polyfiber fill for quilts as I can get stuff like that cheap enough

That was the insulation of yesteryear. You can still tear apart some very old homes and find them lined with newspaper. So why did we stop using stuff like that?

Fire resistance. Newspaper burns like... well, newspaper. Standard polyfill stuffing will burn almost as readily. Fiberglass and cellulose insulation (which is ironically made from sources like newspaper) is designed to have some fire resistance.
Thermal resistance ("R value") - Newspaper is better than nothing, but it's thin paper. It's not designed to resist thermal change. Neither is polyfill. Polyfill has a slight edge because it can trap air (which is what most insulation does since air is a good thermal resistor) but it's still not designed to do that.
Pests - Most insulation is treated with something to make it somewhat resistant to pests. It won't stop a squirrel or rat from making a nest, but they won't be looking at cellulose insulation as a food source either.

I would save up to buy the insulation you need instead of trying to do this on the cheap.


LED bulb always flickers or doesn't turn on My bathroom is fitted with six traditional 20W GU5.3 / MR16 bulbs, and I want to replace them with the smart home equivalent. The only one I could find with the same socket type is the 5W Osram Smart+ GU5.3 bulb.

I bought three of them (to start with), but when I put the bulb in, and flip the switch, the bulb either flickers erratically for a few seconds, or does not turn on at all. This doesn't look like deliberate behaviour.

All three bulbs do the same, they do it in each of the six sockets, and they do it even when all the other conventional bulbs have been removed. However, with an external power source, I was able to test the bulbs, and they all work perfectly, so they're not duds, either.

The bathroom has a regular switch, not a dimmer switch.

What could be causing this issue? How do I resolve it?

The most common cause of this is the 12V transformer. A GU5.3 bulb runs at 12V DC instead of normal line voltage (110-230V AC). Many transformers have a minimum load for normal operation, which the LED bulbs may not be drawing.

As an alternative, you may want to consider installing GU10 bulbs. They are the same general size and shape as GU5.3 bulbs so many fixtures are compatible, but they operate on line voltage so there is no longer a need for the transformer. You would just need to remove the transformer and replace the socket, which is a very small cost on top of the bulbs. It is the best way to negate the flickering and troubleshooting headaches.


Kitchen LED ceiling light "exploded" during lightning storm We're in a rented house in the UK. We just experienced a nearby lightning storm, although we're not aware of any particularly close strikes.
During the storm one of the overhead LED lights in the kitchen "exploded" and the lighting circuit tripped, although the main circuit did not. By "exploded" I mean that it somehow forcefully blew off the plastic cover. The light was turned on when it happened.  We have since turned the lighting circuit back on and that LED bulb is now dead, but there's no obvious visual sign of damage apart from the missing cover.
Is this a cause for concern? It seems like it might be bad that an event outside the house was able to damage an appliance inside.
That particular light is left on 100% of the time, so the circuit tripping will be the first time it's been turned off in months - maybe that's what caused it to "explode"?
We've had some previous issues with the electrics in this house that are supposedly fixed now... But this is a compounding strange thing. We've messaged an electrician but I'd like to independently understand the possible explanations and their implications.

You experience a power surge in your house, probably caused by lighting.  Power surges can damage any circuits, but usually electronics like computers, TVs, or any electronic circuit boards in appliances and LED lights.
There are power surge protectors you can plug into outlets to protect TVs and computers.  There are also whole house power surge protectors that hook into your electric panel, they run about 150 to 200 dollars(think about 250pounds).
This is why it is recommended to unplug TVs and computers during lighting storms.


I want to Increase the width of my kitchen by 2 feet, Is it possible? My house is under construction and have just completed concreting the ground floor ceiling and now under curing. First floor work will start after 15 days.
The kitchen size is 9ft x 11ft and would like to increase the size by 2ft towards utility which is now measuring 6ft x 11 ft.
Do I need to make a new foundation next the old foundation wall to extend the kitchen wall ?
Please advice

Thanks
Mathew

There is not enough info to really answer, but generally as long as your willing to loose the two feet somewhere else then yes you can extend the kitchen.

A lot depends on the type of construction and other factors, your contractor/builder will know best. Again, generally, as long as your staying inside the exterior walls, just about anything can be done.

Other considerations exist however. In some construction types plumbing is laid before the concrete is poured. In those cases it may be expensive to move something like the sink, at the same time, it may cost next to nothing to move an empty wall over 2 feet into what was going to be a closet or something.

There are possibilities, but it will depend on your floor plan, your builder, your construction type, and other factors. Your builder is the best to ask about this type of thing.


What is the best way to mount a tankless water heater to a concrete wall? I am planning to replace my hot water tank with a Noritz NRC98-DV tankless hot water heater.  The best location to mount the new heater is in the basement on an outside concrete wall.  The heater will be at a height that puts it half above grade and half below.   The climate here includes severe winter weather.

The instructions with the heater assume I'm mounting it via screws to a wooden wall (e.g. "...be sure to hit a stud..."). Rather than building a full wall with studs, it would be more convenient for me to mount either directly to the concrete wall or perhaps to, say, a piece of plywood that is mounted directly to the concrete wall.

Will the plywood method or the direct mount method work for me?  Is one or the other preferred?  Are there moisture/condensation considerations with either method?  Are masonry screws (e.g. Tapcons) the preferred method for attaching?

I think you should mount a plywood backer plate with tapcons or ramset nails. The advantage of having the heater mounted to the plywood is that it will be easier to place and screw on once you have the plywood secured well to the wall.  If for some reason you need to remove the heater for service, you won't have to deal with removing tapcons which rarely go back in again.  They always strip out the concrete and won't grip properly when you try to reinstall them.


Best solution to protect the floor while painting the walls For painting work I usually protect the floor using big sheets (like 4 x 4 meters) of transparent plastic sold in Asda that I spread around the room.

However it can move a lot while I walk on it and then there are spaces left exposed. Also it's not very flat.

Ideally I'd like something which covers 100% of the floor 100% of the time while being as flat as possible. Is there such a solution?

Drop Cloths
The most common solution, is to use canvas drop cloths. This has been the choice of the pros for many, many years.

Heavy Paper
36 mil paper is a common choice when working over hard flooring. It provides good spill protection, while also providing a bit of added drop protection.

Masonite Sheets
In higher end homes, where flooring can be quite expensive (and may be installed before construction is completed). 1/8" - 1/4" Masonite sheets can be laid over a medium weight or Rosin paper, to provide good spill and drop protection.


Retiling a tub surround, not sure how to shim it I just ripped out the original tile and backer board on a secondary bathroom in my home and now it's time to put the new stuff up and I'm a bit stumped. The backer board was originally installed on top of the drywall which is causing a spacing problem. My tub is an old cast iron tub and it's 59 5/8" long. The opening stud to stud varies from  61" to 61 3/8".

I've checked out this question and answer and I'm trying to do what is illustrated in the first drawing, but my backer board would align behind the tub flange. On the faucet side, I could easily install shims/furring strips to properly align the backer board with the tub as the wall only extends 6" past the tub.

The other wall is the problem. Since there was drywall on top of the studs and then backer board on top of it, if I use shims there, I'll end up with my backerboard coming out on top of the drywall that continues down the rest of the wall. The original tile used bullnose trim tile where the backer board transitioned back to the drywall, but the new tile doesn't have that option. What should I do?

I see that the floor tile (and possibly the plumbing, a cement bed, or whatever) prevent you from moving the tub. That was going to be my first suggestion. If it's a possibility, do that. Move it only as far as necessary toward the long wall to make it flush with the cement board.

Otherwise, I also see that you have the drywall cut back some distance on the flat wall. I'd cut it back further if you can, then intall the shims as you describe above the tub. Taper shims out on the studs outside the tub. Use a 4' or 6' level or other straightedge horizontally to find the best compromise between flat wall and parallel to the tub. (You may need to continue the taper over the tub, toward the corner, to maintain a flat wall.) Take the taper all the way to the next corner if you need to and can, or as far as possible.

It appears that you only need to gain about 1/4" (I'd eyeball the gap plus the thickness of the tub flange to be about 3/4".) That should be no trouble to taper out.

Carpentry, especially in remodel situations, is often about finding the best compromise from an aesthetic standpoint. Here, because your floor tile is diagonal, you can afford to fudge the wall a bit to make all this work together.


What should I consider regarding recessed lighting above kitchen sink? I'm planning to replace the million year old florescent light (I think it was the first one ever made) above my kitchen sink with a couple recessed lights.  Is there anything specific I should be thinking about when selecting the type of fixture / bulbs?

If you've got insulation in the ceiling, you'll need to get IC (insulation contact) rated fixtures -- they're also known as closed-can.  I have a small soffet built over my sink; if yours is similar, make sure that the fixture you select will fit.  Other than that, don't exceed the wattage for the fixture and you'll be OK.

EDIT: On second thoughts, use an IC rated fixture regardless of whether or not you have insulation.  Over a sink, you're likely to have a lot of steam and if it's an open-can fixture, the stack effect is going to draw much of it up into the space over the ceiling.


How can I protect A/C condenser wires? I bought a replacement condenser fan motor for my outdoor A/C unit. The old unit was CW direction only. This one is CW/CCW and has 4 wires stick out of the side that change direction depending on how they are connected.

I'm concerned with leaving them out in the open subject to getting rained on. There are rubber boots that cover the wire, but I'm not sure that's gonna be enough. I've used zip ties on the wires and wrapped the seam between the two rubber boots that protect the connections with electrical tape, but I'm wondering if anyone has any tips for further protecting them from the rain.

I was thinking about taping it to the side of the motor, but I'm concerned the motor will get too hot. Should I just wrap the wires and boot with more electrical tape and let it hang? Should I not worry about it?

I'm not sure why the wires would be exposed to the elements, however if you want to seal them, wrapping in electrical tape and tie wraps is definitely not the right solution.

I would utilize heat shrink tubing:

  Thin wall heat-shrink tubing is great for cable insulation, marking or bundling, with superior mechanical, abrasion and moisture protection

Basically you slip this over the entire connection and then use a heat gun to shrink the tubing tight against the connections.  It's a cheap and effective way to protect electrical connections.


What type of room divider should I use to convert a dining room into a bed room? My dining room has 2 openings:
96H x 64W (do not need a door/opening)
96H x 41W (sliding door)

What are my best options to install something which is sturdy (not removable).

None of them should be glass doors as it'd be a bedroom. Noise separation would be good but not a must.

My personal perference would be to remove the trim and floor under the opening, frame with 2x4's and then drywall.  Paint and re-trim.

The pocket door will take a little more work depending on where the hinges will be.  If the hinges will be on the side where the door slides into the wall, you will need to open the wall and re-frame that section.  If the door handle will go on that side, you can get away with filling the old pocket with a 2x4, but the wall will be stronger if you re-frame where the pocket was.  Remove the trim, order a custom pre-hung door, install door, re-trim the new door.


Lower attic floor joists to increase head room An old home I am interested in buying has 10' ceilings on the main level and an attic with 7' clearance.

I would like to replace the ceiling joists (or attic floor joists) in order to lower the main level ceiling to 8' and increase head clearance in the attic in order to make it a master suite.
The main level square footage is just under 900 sq ft.
The home was built in 1922 and has had zero renovations since then, all original inside (horrible kitchen). So I do not think pre-fab trusses were used.  It has a full basement.  Due to age and condition I know I am going into this as a full renovation project, but for $60K it seems worth it, particularly since neighboring homes go for 3x that.  I paid for a full inspection and the home is solid, just seriously dated.  I really need to use the attic space though.  I will try to find those episodes of This Old House that @FreeMan mentioned.

I doubt if you’ll be able to add an upstairs room without a special variance from your Building Department.
There are several issues: 1) Its a structural change so you’ll need a Building Permit, 2) the Code requires a minimum ceiling height, 3) minimum floor area required for habitable rooms, 4) window required in habitable rooms and if it’s a sleeping room, an egress window is required.

Not only is a Building Permit required, but if the value of the structure increases 25% or more, then the entire structure will need to be brought up to code. (Each State has a different threshold for this requirement, so check with your local Building Department.)

The minimum ceiling height for habitable rooms is 7’, but 50% of the floor area can have a sloping ceiling, but none can be lower than 5’. (See ICC R305)

The minimum habitable room size is 70 square feet and the minimum dimension in any direction cannot be less than 7’. (See ICC R304) Remember, those dimensions must meet the room height dimensions noted above.

You’ll need to add a window (or skylight if not a sleeping room.

Btw, a habitable room is defined as a room used for living, sleeping eating or cooking. Bathrooms, closets, halls, storage, or utility spaces are not considered habitable spaces.
Also, your new stairway must meet the current code too, including maximum riser height, minimum tread depth, etc.
Summary: Regardless of the structural adequacy of your floor and foundation system, there are many requirements that will be difficult meet. I’d recommend meeting with your local Building Officials to insure you are eligible.


Dimmer dims the lights about once a second I have a dimmer (Richmond/Zano GRID500) that, when turned up to full brightness, dims the lights on and off at a rate of about 1 Hz.

Turning the brightness down just a bit makes the blinking stop.

The switch did this with 6x 50W halogen bulbs, and is continuing to do this with 6x 5W LED bulbs.

Since the blinking looks deliberate, I am wondering if the switch is trying to tell me something? I found some manufacturer's literature, but there's nothing relevant there.

Any ideas?

I managed to speak to the manufacturer, their advice was "the dimmer is faulty; have it replaced."


How can I repair water damage to a hardwood floor under a washing machine? Recently we had an overflow from our washing machine, because we washed pillows on the high speed setting. The powder room where the washing machine is located had water on the floor underneath, but thankfully it was limited to one corner. We attempted to dry the area with fans, and now have a pan in place to catch some spills.

We checked out the area a month later, and noticed that the top of a few boards are lifting in an area and there are some black bits. I uploaded a YouTube video of the damage

I suspect it'd be best to replace the damaged floorboards, but that's beyond what I can do in the very short term. My preferred flooring guy is booked steady for a while, and it's a decent round trip for him. I was going to start with the approach for removing stains, but should I remove that board to investigate further?

I'm assuming this is tongue and groove board so it'll be trickier to remove. Is it safe to just remove the surface area that is lifting, dry that further, prep it and apply polyurethane as an interim solution. If there is an easy way to remove the board and avoid collateral damage I'd be interested in knowing that.

If as @gbronner mentioned its just the surface layer, that's pretty easy to fix:  Scrape it clean, sand a bit, remove the dust, then apply poly.  I wouldn't necessarily recommend this in the middle of a living room floor, but in a laundry room, I at least am less concerned about the appearance of the floor.
But if those boards are soft in the middle, they definitely need to be replaced and since they are being replaced you should also take a look at the sub floor to ensure there was no permanent damage to what is underneath.  That said, If you have stopped the leakage you shouldn't have issues waiting for a contractor.

Please clarify the scenario we are working with here, surface damage or soft/rotted wood.  If you are interested in fixing it yourself, I would suggest getting us a picture of the layout of the room (dimensions, and where the damage fits within those dimensions).  We can  suggest a best course from there.


Is the material encasing a steam heating system asbestos? How can i determine this? I'm looking to purchase a home.  It has a steam heat boiler system, wrapped in a white material that seems "old".  Is it possibly asbestos?  How do I test to see?

With an asbestos test kit or a professional asbestos testing firm. If you're buying the house, you may be able to get the sellers to pay for this.


Which blade should I use on a Silverline Adjustable Hole Cutter with Cowl? I just bought this hole cutter to make some large holes in a plaster board ceiling.    It comes with two sets of blades but no instructions!  So which type blade should I use for plaster board?

The blades are claimed to be TCT blades, HSS blades on the box, but they are not labeled, so it is not even clear which blade is which.

TCT = Tungsten Carbide Tipped
HSS = High Strength Steel

The tungsten/carbide tipped would probably be best reserved when you're cutting metal or something harder; the high strength steel blades should be sufficient for most applications.


Drafts pulled into house when furnace blower turns on This is my first winter in this rental home. Our furnace is in a utility closet that is accessible only from the outside of the home. The home is a rambler with a crawlspace and all of the ductwork to the vents is in the crawlspace (almost all the registers are on the floor). The "cold" air return is in the ceiling of the central hallway. I've never seen a return in a ceiling, but to each his own.

The mystery is that every time the furnace turns on, it pulls cold drafts from every imaginable crack or crevice in the house. For example, if you put your hand next to the door sill, then the moment the blower turns on, a strong draft of cold air starts coming in. This seems to be true in every room, including the utility closed where the furnace is located.

What is causing this low pressure vacuum and how can I fix it?

Your furnace pulls air from your house (that return vent in the ceiling), heats it, and then blows it back into the house (the floor registers). It should pull out the same amount of air that it blows back in, but your experience shows otherwise; it's pulling more air out than it's blowing back in.

It looks like some of the (heated) air isn't making it back into the house. If, say, 1/4 of the air that's pulled from the house passes through the furnace is discharged to the great outdoors, then you'd have to have the same amount of air being pulled back in through "cracks and crevices" in the building envelope. If not, after a while the house would start deflating like a leaky balloon (and, since you didn't mention it, I'm guessing that isn't happening).

So, somehow hot air coming from the furnace is leaking outdoors. Check the furnace housing, check those ducts in the crawl space, check whether there's (warm) air blowing outdoors from the crawl space. Also try and compare the amount of air coming out of the registers to the amount going back in the return.

Good luck.


Water coming in BELOW sump pit inlet pipe! Is this normal? So, we live in a new house (moved in a year and a half ago as soon as the build was finished). We moved in during the dead of a Canadian winter. Even still, my sump pit would fill and pump put quite frequently. I knew the water table here was high, so not incredibly surprising. After about a month, we got a permit to route our sump to the sanitary floor drain which was great; didn’t have to worry about recycling water and creating a “fountain” effect.

Fast forward a year and a half and here’s the problem I’m facing. Although this past winter I noticed our pit didn’t fill nearly as much (chalk it up to water table changing and grading around the house actually being completed?), it has started filling like crazy over the past few days (mid-April) as the weather has suddenly warmed and we’re dealing with lots of snow melt. There’s no water resting directly against the house, but our whole area has a lot of pooling water. There are even little sloughs created across the alley past our backyard. So I feel like it’s inevitable that this rapid snow melt will affect the water table. Here’s the problem though—as my pit is filling, the water is coming in EXCLUSIVELY through a tiny gap between the bottom of the ABS pipe and the hole cut in wall of the sump basin that receives the inlet pipe. So the pipe itself seems to suddenly not be bringing water in; rather, water is coming in through a relief point through a crack between the inlet pipe and the basin wall (as it is not sealed all too well at all.)

I’ve called around and a lot of people seem to think it’s normal. They say that as the water underneath the slab gets higher/more saturated, the water is simply finding a relief point and is making its way through that crack. (Note that this isn’t a permeable/perforated pit; a solid pit with only the inlet and discharge pipes coming in/out.)

This makes some sense to me. However, I’m thrown off by how it seems like NO water is coming in through the inlet pipe anymore. Could it possibly have come detached under our slab? Most people I talk to seem to think not—they say the inlet pipe will be solid ABS pipe all the way to the outside of our foundation wall, after which point it will T off to perforated drain tile.

Anyway, let me know if this seems normal! I’m stressing over wondering if something underneath our slab is broken/detached and wondering if that’s why water is coming in through this crack instead of the pipe.

Thanks.

Apart from routing a sump pump for water around a foundation to a sanitary drain (no storm sewers where you live?), this sounds normal.

Usually, the perforated piping is just a supplement to the classic French drain design using rocks. The pipe is to ensure there is always a path with low resistance when the water table gets high enough. Otherwise, some water should still find its way through the rocks/soil when the water table is above the sump pit basin and below the bottom of the pipe.


How to handle dirt caked in excavator bucket I'm digging a basement with an excavator.  It's been some rain, and so the dirt is caking in the bucket.  I clean it when I have to, but it's a pain.  Any tips for dealing with it?

If you can get the bucket clean and dry, a coat of paste wax will help, but for how long is debatable, and unknowable in practice unless you make the experiment.

Ideally wait for better weather, but that's difficult with rented equipment and/or deadlines. Be careful how hard you "bump on the ground" - it is possible to rather expensively break things with excess enthusiasm and the power of hydrualics. Sometimes just wiggling the bucket or boom in the air will get things to unload, with far less risk of damage.


Can I use a 15A breaker for a 10A baseboard heater? First off, I wear many Hats (jack of many, master of...some) I refer to the 2017 NEC often and able to answer my questions most of the time. This one bounces my brain too much. Providing this answer takes a deep knowledge of the NEC gained by years in the trade (or a book geek) therefore  I humbly and respectfully thank you for sharing your knowledge.

I'm in Colorado, USA. ( Machavity) (my fluke* says 122v... so 244 volts (Harper)?:)

The heater is a CADET (cadetheat.com Vancouver, Washington) Its tested to UL standards. They cover their a** on installation by saying

*1. All electrical work and materials must comply with the National Electric Code (NEC), the Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA), and all state and local codes, without giving specifics other than...
The maximum amperage load you can put on one circuit breaker is limited to either 80% of the circuit breaker capacity, or the maximum amperage rating of the thermostat, whichever is lower. & some other reference regarding breaker being ...20% larger than load(or something to that effect, not quoted)

I'm installing 4 baseboard heaters of different sizes, each in a separate room, each on a separate breaker, with the smallest being a 240/208 Volt, 500/375 watts,  2.1/1.8 amp, with a wall mount thermostat (mechanical double pole 120/208/240 volts, 22 amps).

My Question is, If I run 12-2 wire with a 15 amp breaker that has only the one above mentioned heater, am I within NEC?  My concern is if the breaker is too large to protect the appliance.

Take this one step farther...240-V baseboard heater, 2.1 amp draw, 10-2 wire with a 30 A breaker total run length 40 ft. Can you "overprotect" or defeat the breakers ability to trip/disconnect by having too small of a load?

Wire can always (or almost always, I'll bet there is an exception somewhere) be oversized. Using a larger wire than required by code will either make no difference at all or only improve things - e.g., by reducing voltage drop over long distances.

Breakers must NEVER be oversized when used as a protective device. Generally this is pretty clear from the particular device - e.g., a device that requires a 20 Amp circuit must have at least matching size wire (typically that would be 12 AWG) and must have a breaker that is exactly 20 Amp. There are certain exceptions - e.g., a 20 Amp breaker (with at least 12 AWG wire) may be used for 15 Amp receptacles, provided there are at least 2 (e.g., a typical duplex 15 Amp receptacle). But you can't put a 30 Amp breaker on a circuit that is rated for 20 Amps (either because of the device specifications, the wire size or both).

Breakers CAN be oversized when used merely as an on/off switch. This is the case, for example, in some subpanel installations. For example, if you have a 60 Amp breaker in your main panel feeding appropriately sized wire to a subpanel, then the subpanel can have any size breaker (though obviously it should be 60 Amp or larger in this example) as a main breaker because it is not providing protection, it is only used as a switch (e.g., to be able to safely work inside the subpanel without going back to the main panel). If you search around a bit on DIY, you will find many examples of using a large panel with a 100 Amp (or even larger) breaker for a subpanel that is actually fed by a smaller breaker in the main panel.

Now on to your situation:

  220 V baseboard heater with a 10 amp draw, wall mount thermostat. Can I run 12-2 wire with a 15 amp breaker?

The first determining factor is the specifications of the heater. It should have some information about what type of circuit it works with. Barring any specifics, 15 Amp is the typical bottom meter size in the US, and is obviously big enough (and should be safe enough) for a 5A or 10A heater. However, more typically with 200 V loads you will see larger breakers as one of the reasons to use 220 V is that you can get a lot more power than with 110 V. In particular, if you will be connecting multiple baseboard heaters on one circuit then you need to make sure that they are designed so that they can be on the same circuit and protected appropriately. Your circuit (including the breaker) needs to be larger than the continuous load (heaters may be on for long periods of time, so they definitely count for continuous load), I believe by 20%. So a 15A heater, for example, would actually need a 20A circuit (12 AWG wire and 20A breaker).

As far as wire, as already noted in another answer:

You need to see if a neutral is needed (you can't share ground & neutral). If so, then you actually need 12/3, not 12/2.
Even if you are using a 15A circuit now, going up to 12 AWG doesn't cost much for 40 feet and gives you more flexibility (i.e., up to 20A) for the future.


Is it okay that I turned on my new fridge immediately after delivery? I turned on my new fridge/freezer immediately after delivery without thinking about it. Just realised, now 3 hours later, and went downstairs. It felt cold but I could hear "liquidy" noises. Have I screwed it? I was under the impression that it would be transported "upright" because that's what it says on the box.

Any advice/comments? I have just turned it off out of paranoia.

It is normal for fridges to make all sorts of sounds. Some of it will be materials contracting, the compressor running, etc.  If you have a water dispenser or ice maker, you will occasionally hear water flowing.

You are supposed to let a fridge sit a bit after delivery, but most people will just plug them in.

I doubt you have damaged your fridge.  Plug it back in, let it cool down for 24hours, and assuming it keeps working, you're in the clear.


Is there a way to make a worn laminate floor shine again? Is there a way to make a worn laminate floor shine again?  There are a couple of areas in my house where lots of traffic seem to have dulled the shine on our laminate (pergo) floor, as well as where I foolishly have used a rolling chair at my desk with no mat.   Is there anyway to get something close to the original shine back?

According to their web site at http://na.pergo.com/HowTo_FAQ.aspx they state:

  Pergo floors must never be waxed, polished, sanded or refinished and never use a wet or jet mop when cleaning.

Given that Pergo's surface is just a printed substrate, odds are the printing, itself, has faded. Probably time to replace.

An easy 'fix' might be to get some runners (narrow rugs) to cover the heavily trafficked areas.

That said, given that it's a printed surface, one option--if you don't want to pull it out and replace completely--might be to repaint it. Talk to a paint professional to see if there are any primers that would work on the Pergo. You could then roll on a new painted finish.


What is this switch plate cover with a pyramidal bulge across the top of the plate? We were trying to replace old switch plate covers at our new house when we came across one that is a type I've never seen before. It's a light switch cover that looks like an ordinary cover except for a small bulge above the switch that's maybe an inch across and half an inch tall. It's kind of an elongated pyramid shape. Removing the cover reveals two wires coming from the box (one from the top right, one from the bottom left) that appear to be soldered behind the lump. There appears to be a small piece of what looks like PCB board material, but doesn't show any features aside from the points where the two wires are attached.

Does anybody have any idea what this is? I don't want to just yank the wires out (they are attached to screw terminals in the box) without knowing what they are supposed to do.

The house was build in the early 20th century, so the plate could be really old.

Commment converted to answer.

My guess is that it's an illuminated cover, which no longer works. Turn power off, disconnect the two wires to the cover, and replace with a regular cover. While you're at it, you might as well replace the switch.


Why is every second breaker out in my panel? I have notice that every other circuit breaker in the panel is not working.I also notice after pulling the breakers that they all tested good using a continuity tester!! however inspecting the red wire the bus behind looks burned.The 220 on that line that feeds the washer only has partial power what can be done to fix the problem???

Multiple possibilities.

If you have aluminum feeder wire, check the clamp to that wire AND that anti-oxidation compound was used.  As the load varies, the joint heats up and cools down.  Aluminum expands and contracts more than the other metals, so the wire will squish down and work its way loose!  This happened at our old place.  The panel got hot and I saw arcing at the clamp.  Remember that the wire is electrically hot!

If you have a loose connection to a breaker, that could heat up the bus.

Copper or aluminum bus bars in the panel?  Aluminum oxide is non-conductive, a high-resistance connection can develop.

Feeder wires can be damaged in the ground, including long after the insulation is nicked.


How to Remove This Bathroom Faucet Spout I am replacing the faucet in my guest bathroom but I am having a difficult time removing the center spout of a widespread setup (I think it is an old Moen). I have loosened the nut underneath the counter but the T just spins which leads me to believe the spout should spin off but it doesn't. How should go about getting this off?

I figured it out. The T underneath actual just pulls off and then the nut spins off then the spout can be pulled up through the hole. As an aside it is amazing how easy the new faucets are to install.


Can I run these appliances with 25A I'm looking to lease a floor of a building for office purposes but the building owner has placed a cap on current to 25Amp due to limited current available. I'm no expert but he has consulted a professional in the area and after figuring out the important stuff, this is the final requirement that he has agreed to:

10 laptops (with external keyboard and mouse)
one external monitor
2 air conditioners (9000btu and 13000 btu)
2 fans
2 air coolers
1 mini fridge
1 router for internet
lights
misc such as phone charging, etc.

I understand current consumption will vary depending on the product but based on your expert knowledge is this combination doable with 25amp or is it going to be a stretch?

Also this is in high humidity (90%) , generally hot weather (30c) and this is on 240v supply (not sure if this matters).

Your expert opinion will be very much appreciated.

You have not provided enough information to get a detailed look but we can play with some estimates. I am using watts for power consumption, which we will use to calculate amps at the end:

Some of the items we can guess pretty well:

10 laptops (80 watts each)       800 watts
1 external monitor               100 watts
9kBTU air conditioner            1000 watts
13kBTU air conditioner           1400 watts
2 fans (50 watts each)           100 watts
1 mini fridge                    400 watts
internet router                  20 watts

That adds up to 3820 watts, or around 16 amps @ 240V.

The other items are harder to know. Lighting depends HUGELY on the amount of space you're trying to light and the type of bulbs. A small office lit with LEDs may use only 100 watts, but a large space using old-fashioned incandescent bulbs will use much much more.

Also, I have no idea what an air cooler is so it's hard to get a value for that.

And obviously your "misc" category could include anything...

But I would say as a rough cut that 25 amps is probably enough, assuming you don't blow your power budget on lighting.


How to fix sink disposal leaking problem? Since yesterday my sink disposal has kept leaking. I took a video. Please advise how to fix it. Thanks

Video

That leak is coming from the bottom of the disposal which means the bottom seals or the bottom has rusted out or cracked.
You'll need to replace it. Sorry about that.


220ft Feeder Run to Storage Shed The Objective: Run a combo Heat/Cool Window unit, 1 switched light and some outlets to a detached storage shed 140 ft from home. Temperature goal is 60F min in winter and 80F max in summer. Located in North Texas. One light and outlets are for rare use. This will 100% be climate controlled storage of personal items to be accessed maybe 2-3 times per month.

What I have: Home built in 2019 with 200a main panel which is 220 ft away from where the subpanel will go in the shed. Distance from main panel to exterior of the home is approx 80ft. Then I have 1 1/2 in. conduit from the house to the shed using sweeping 90 degree fittings buried at least 18 inches. This is 140 ft. Distances are as the wire runs, not the crow flies.

My plan: (Revised based on suggestions) Install XXX amp breaker in main panel. For 240V, run quantity of 4 XX gauge copper feeder wire: two live, one neutral, One ground, a distance of 220 ft to a disconnect at the shed. Disconnect goes to subpanel. Then two branch circuits: One 240v for HVAC. Other for outlets and light circuit (GFCI).

My Primary Question: What size copper wire should I use as the feeder?

I have read differing opinions on this. Some leaning on the very cautious side and some leaning on the "don't overcomplicate it" side.

If I plan for breaking amps (40) at <3% voltage drop, I'll need 2awg?
If I plan for normal operating amps (20? guessing) at <3% voltage drop, I'll need 4awg?
If I plan for breaking amps (40) at <8% voltage drop, I'll need 6awg?
If I plan for normal operating amps (20? guessing) at <8% voltage drop, I'll need 10awg?

Also, I'm fairly sure that shed will need it's own dedicated ground rod. But will it also need a ground feeder back to the main breaker? I have read that is a new requirement but don't understand why it requires both (if correct). If so, what size wire should I use to connect? Is it just naked ground like in romex?

Any other things I need to consider that I haven't will be appreciated. I have tried by best to research existing posts and books but I'm stuck currently on what to do. Thank you.

Given your requirements, you don't need much for HVAC

For a shed the size of yours, just about any HVAC unit you can come up with will do the job.  The basic tradeoff, then, is "do you want to do the bit of extra work a subpanel entails for a simple storage shed, especially given that the wiring's in conduit and can be easily replaced in the future, or would you rather save some work and perhaps a bit of money now, at the cost of being limited in what you can use for a HVAC unit?"

If you want the cheapest way possible to do this, I would use a 20A, 2-pole breaker in the panel, feeding 4 12AWG copper THHNs (black, black or red, white, green or bare) in the conduit, and then use a reducer to interface the existing conduit to a non-fused air conditioner disconnect at the shed to provide the required disconnecting means.  This means you'll need a 115V HVAC unit, which are rather thin on the ground, though: the Amana PBH092G12CC is what I'd recommend as it's a full-fledged heat-pump in a through-the-wall package (instead of being a simple "air conditioner with a toaster element attached" arrangement).  This is plugged into a single 5-20R that goes to one side of the MWBC, while the other side feeds the light switch/fixture and a GFCI convenience receptacle.  Finally, at the disconnect, all the grounds go into the bonded bar provided, while the neutrals simply are connected together with a wirenut as they need to float.

The alternative gives you a 230V HVAC unit, but requires you to install a subpanel, complete with main breaker to serve as a disconnect, (our advice: go big or go home on subpanel spaces.  A 24-space, 100A or 125A subpanel would not be at all out of place here.) and a grounding electrode system at the shed in addition to the equipment grounding wire in the conduit.  Fortunately, two 8' ground rods driven 6-8' apart and connected to the subpanel with 6AWG bare copper suffices in most places, with a 15A or 20A 2-pole breaker in the subpanel for the single NEMA 6-20R for the HVAC unit and a pair of 20A, 1-pole breakers, one for the light circuit and the other for the GFCI.  All of this would go with 4 10AWG (black, black or red, white, green or bare) wires in the conduit and a 30A, 2-pole breaker for the feeder.  (The size of the subpanel's main breaker doesn't matter since it's just being used as a disconnect switch in this application.)

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There's one other thing you'll want to do here, and that's use an inch-pound torque wrench or torque screwdriver to tighten all the electrical connection setscrews to their manufacturer specified torques.  This is required by 2017 NEC 110.14(D), and also is a good way to make sure your electrical system won't give you the loose lugnut!


Structural integrity of new fence on concrete slab I recently bought a condo with a 11'x13' patio with a wooden privacy fence. The fence is in pretty bad shape so I want redo it with new wood in a more modern design by doing horizontal planks. I posted another question about materials (Rebuilding fence - lumber questions) and from that discussion now have questions about the structural integrity of my design. I sketched out the existing framing and proposed framing with an sky view and front view.

The main difference is that I will be increasing the size of the corner posts to 6x6 so that I can screw the horizontal planks to the framing and the post will still stick out of it. Something like (https://i.pinimg.com/originals/8c/e8/d4/8ce8d43018c740fb1c6b47f8a6a369d8.jpg). I also want to add a 4x6 post in the middle of each side to break up the long stretch of horizontal planks.

Is this plan sound? I am open to all suggestions, thanks in advance!

You aren't clear on how the posts are anchored. Are you pouring concrete piers or doing metal mounting plates with concrete anchors? Either way, I think your plan is sound but you should also anchor the center posts which are floating in your current plan. That will add considerably more structural integrity to your fencing.
I like the 6x6 posts for strength and aesthetics.


Concerned About Possible Lead Paint in Basement of Old Home We live in a house that is approx 100 years old. I believe we have lead paint in our house on the basement walls (we have not tested is but it is my assumption). There are areas where the paint is cracked & in rough shape due to moisture coming in. Our plan it to seal the basement walls this coming year to eliminate some of the moisture. I would want to try to encapsulate the paint down there when we finish sealing it.

My concern is the damaged paint that is down there in the meantime if it does have lead content. We are never in the basement (it is not finished) but the basement does have our furnace & the heating/central air ducts run along the ceiling into the house. Is this something to be immediately concerned about?  We are not creating any dust since there is zero traffic down there. The basement is shut off from the rest of the house & the access is from a door that is closed & basically in a closet. Thanks for the advice!

If the paint remains undisturbed I would think you have little to worry about. It is only when it is, becomes, or is made friable and then ingested or inhaled that you have an issue. Because you are "not creating any dust" I think you will be fine.

Although any amount of lead exposure to children and pregnant women should be avoided, it takes considerable dust generation to produce quantities that are generally accepted as harmful. Activities to be avoided in your basement include large scale demolition projects and scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on the suspect painted surfaces.

Interior Work disturbing less than 6 square feet of surface and exterior work disturbing less than 20 square feet is even exempt from recordkeeping requirements for lead abatement contractors (with a few exceptions).


What kind of sink faucet screws are these and how do I tighten them? I have a loose sink faucet with screws I've never seen that holds it in place.

There doesn't appear to be anything for a screwdriver or wrench to latch onto for tightening. How does one tighten these screws?

The plates marked A are tapered. Rotate them one way tightens and the other way loosens. I have only seen these a few times and did not care for them as they kept becoming loose but that was in a rental with college kids so it could have been rough handling.


Electrical outlet fried 3 USB chargers and causes projector to shutdown.What to do? First off, I'm talking about European Schuko sockets, 220V AC.

There is this one outlet with 2 sockets in the corner of the room, and both of them have caused problems. Over the past few months they've fried 3 USB chargers and when I try to watch a movie on a pico-projector (5V DC) it causes flickering and blacks out from time to time (usually right when the movie gets interesting). I should have isolated the problem to that outlet earlier, but I thought the whole house was electrically haunted.

Finally we stopped using those sockets, and I took it apart today. Nothing unusual in the wiring, no sign of burnt anything, no exposed wires. I put it back, turned the power back on to the apartment and measured it with a multimeter. Phase–neutral was OK, 220V, but ground–neutral was showing a 1..2V reading.

The thing is I think this stray voltage varies (based on the projector problems during a 2h movie). This is why I was a bit reluctant to call an electrician, I don't want someone to come, stay for a few minutes, notice nothing unusual and say everything is fine. Then charge me without fixing the issue.

I'd really like to use that outlet, it's well placed for the projector. Otherwise the room would be criss-crossed with extension cords. What could I do?

Later edit

I think the renovation was done by a hack electrician...

There's an electrical panel with 10 switches in the hallway. I thought wow, how nice, such granular control. Turns out the mapping is completely haphazard. They're not labeled.
When a guy came to install gas sensors he asked me to turn off the power to the apartment because he was getting zapped by the gas pipes!
The 2 bathroom fans have been improperly installed... You can't turn them on just like that, or it'll work for a few seconds then turn off. If you fiddle with the OTHER's switch twice you will get the second one to respond to its switch. (Mayhem, I know. Found this out through trial and error)
Brought in an old stereo amplifier and I now notice it sometimes jolts with a loud static noise, as if I had taken out and touched the audio cable at loud volume.
Sometimes the WiFi router or the wireless audio receiver go offline for a few seconds

That's all the suspicious details I could conjure up for now.

Answers to comments

I don't have enough reputation to create value for the StackExchange community by answering bloody comments.

I haven't checked ALL the receptacles, but two of them look perfectly fine. Tidy wiring even.

One phase of 220V, I believe...

The USB chargers weren't particularly cheap ones, in fact. If overheating is a measure of poor quality, they didn't do that. May they rest in peace.

The outlets don't have built-in USB. One of them has a built-in TV coax plug. Some light switches (SHOULD be different circuit) had light indicators that don't work. Could have been they all burnt out before I moved in, which would have been a problem. But the owner came by today and told me she's certain they had never connected those. I had issues with these before, and recall how I systematically tore out these little duplicitous "conveniences" and spat on their worthless corpse.

We have CFL lights in other rooms, yeah. The washing machine has a regular Schuko plug.

Later-er edit

I had an electrician come check it out. He brought in a voltage stabilizer (with servo-motor) and measured between 210V and 230V. The dips are probably the cause, and it means the electrical issues are for the whole apartment, not just that power outlet. He replaced it to be sure.

His recommendation was to but a voltage stabilizer and plug valuables into that... I find that extremely cumbersome, and quite expensive, all for a "fix" that doesn't address the core issue.

What other recourse do I have to get cleaner power to the entire flat? I'll try to talk to the building's administrator and to the power company, but what should I be aware of?

You should only do the following if you are electrically competent. Working live is dangerous and could lead to ventricular fibrillation and death.

There are a couple of things to try. However, these are only basic checks that in all honestly will probably reveal little. A more comprehensive set of tests should be carried out but are beyond the scope of most people.

Firstly checking all the terminals are tightly connected as arcing and overheating is a possibility of loose terminations.

Check the phase to neutral, phase to earth/ground and neutral to earth/ground are correct. You seem to have done a part of that. However, earth/ground to neutral voltages are not uncommon depending on what is connected and certainly 1-2V is nothing to be worried about.

It is highly doubtful the outlet is at fault. Most outlets are at their fundamental level mechanical electrical switches, they posse no ability to inherently damage appliances.

That being said if the socket is one of these new USB chargers that are built directly into the sockets plate then it is certainly a possibility the transformer has become faulty as this is actually quite common from experience as they are always overloaded by larger devices such as iPads.

The real cause is more likely to be one of the following but is difficult to diagnose as it requires specialist tools.

It could be electrical surges coming in through your main supply even though it is supposed to be regulated against such surges it is certainly a possibility. In these cases it tends to wipeout several appliances that are not protected against such surges but this doesn't seem to be the case here.

Do not use cheap or fake/imitation USB chargers (I cannot stress this enough). There are a thousand articles out there about them. They use cheap sub-standard electronics that produce horrible rippled direct current output and introduce harmonics back into the alternating current supply side. They also tend to overheat a lot.

While on the topic of harmonics it is actually one that not many people truly appreciate or understand yet it is a likely cause of electronics to fail.  Harmonics can come from within the property or from outside. These harmonics can be produced by other electronics and devices such as switched mode power supplies, fluorescent lighting, UPS, magnetic cored devices. Without analysing the supply you would not be able to tell other than devices overheating and prematurely failing.

In the end it is difficult to diagnose your issue over the internet without more information.


Possible leak from upstairs window into downstairs window I have a leak in the wall facing outside.  There is damage in the cieling directly above the window.  Note that this issue only happens about once every 6 months to 1 year.  I think when the wind is just right during rain storms.

Snake camera inside of hole

I'm guessing the water comes from the second story window directly above.  Is this metal something that can be caulked?  Or should I replace it?

The window itself was recently replaced as part of this issue.  However, the issue is still there.  I'm thinking the metal housing the window is also a problem.

After several years of fighting this issue and asking many experts, I finally have a solution.  I attached a garden nozzle with a high pressure setting.  Then I sprayed the windows all over the corners and edges.  Nothing.

So I started looking at the bricks.  I found several places that looked like holes.  I sprayed those.  FINALLY.  Water came into the house.  The mortar came loose from the brick and caused the leak.  I'm going to plug it up with Quikrete Mortar Repair Sealant.

If I had a buddy I would have also tried a leaf blower.  I figure if water can get through then so can air.  I was going to push the leaf blower into the hole in my window then go look for a place where air is blowing out.

I credit Dan Schweihs at The Window Dog for helping to finally reproduce the problem.  And I'm thankful he did NOT blindly sell me windows that would not have fixed my primary concern (as several other window companies did).


Toilet seat with metal axles in plastic sleeves squeaks like crazy when opened/closed It's a Cooke & Lewis Bakau. The axles are made of stainless steel. (As an aside and quality indicator, the first exemplar I bought came with two right-axles and no left-axles [they should be mirror images], so it had to be exchanged.) The Duraplast seat has some (softer?) plastic insert sleeves where the steel axles go in. But there's no material code on those plastic inserts that I can see. I'm wondering if any lubricant is safe on this combination to ease the squeak when I open/close the seat (or the lid; it squeaks just as bad).

The hinges look like this:

A teflon based lubricant will be inert with respect to plastics and of course, equally inert to steel and iron products. Teflon based lubricants are used in plumbing applications, specifically in faucet and other water valves, as well as on sliding surfaces for some mechanisms such as 3D printers and low-load CNC devices.

Super-lube is one brand name, although it may not be available in your area as such. A quick search for "teflon grease" results in many returns.


Can I connect wall sconces to an existing switched circuit? My den has four outlets tied to one wall switch (top receptacle at each outlet). I am looking to install four sconces (two per wall on two walls) and was wondering if I can tie these into the existing switched outlets.

I am sure this CAN be done, but more wondering if it is OK to do. Will this violate code (Minnesota USA). Or should I run new cable and use a new switch?

Technically, yes you can tie into those outlets for power.

Whether or not it is safe (and not against code) to do so would depend on what other loads are already on the circuit (will adding the lights overload the circuit?) and the size of the electrical boxes where the outlets are located (are they large enough to accommodate the wires from another branch?).

You would need to do some load calculations taking into consideration the wire gauge as well as box fill calculations.  This information is available in the NEC - always a handy reference to have available when doing this type of work.

If in doubt, it's always safest to consult a licensed electrician.


Connecting new GFCI in the middle of a circuit run I have 4 outlet locations in a circuit run.
From left to right, the line feed is directly to outlet location #3.
I want a GFCI to protect all 4 outlets, so I want to put the GFCI in location #3.
Can I connect the wires for outlet #2 and outlet #4 directly to the GFCI receptacle, since there are 2 sets of push-in LOAD connecters on the bottom of it?

Any branch of the circuit whose hot and neutral are plugged into the "Load" terminals, will be protected from that GFCI.
You are required to label those outlets "GFCI Protected" (NEC 110.3(B) and 8(C) of instructions).  Use any labeling method that isn't handwritten.  Also mark "No Equipment Ground" if applicable (NEC 406.4(D)2).
You can attach any number of branches to the "Load" terminals.  If you exceed the number of provided lugs, you can simply pigtail.
"Push-in" aka "Back-stabs" are generally not seen on UL-listed GFCI devices; I suspect that's a UL requirement.  Instead they have "screw-and-clamp" or "insert wires; tighten screw to clamp" terminals.  A bit tricky and you have to clamp HARD, but very nice when you get the hang of it.
If you have a GFCI that does have back-stabs, search it very closely for a UL, CSA or ETL mark with 6-8 digit file number.  If you don't see that, it is a knockoff/counterfeit device (which would defeat the purpose of installing a safety device, obviously). Counterfeits are generally not seen in competent retail shops; 99% of them come from mail-order, and the #1 offender is the Amazon Marketplace, which is eBay-tier junk mostly.


I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat? I had to patch a cat door that was cut into the drywall, and put in a cutout that left small gaps around the perimeter. When I applied the first coat of joint compound, it pulled into the gap in certain places, so I have to apply a second coat. Do I or should I wet the first coat before applying the second?

No. You shouldn't have to wet the first coat.


Wiring for outdoor GFCI receptacle in my garden I have dug my trench. I want to use FMC (flexible metal conduit) since some of my trench is only 8-12 inches deep. I need to know what wires I need inside my conduit. Do I just need a black, white and a green ground wire? FMC can be used as the ground from what I have read. I need to run this about 85 feet from my electrical box. I believe I need 8 AWG THWN wire for that length. But I want to make sure I put the right wires inside the conduit. Oh and I want a 120 volt receptacle. Thanks!!

Wrong conduit for the job

First off, you are looking at the wrong kind of conduit for this task.  NEC 348.12 point 6 prohibits the use of FMC underground:

  (6) Underground or embedded in poured concrete or aggregate

Given your desired trench depth, you want to use rigid metal conduit (RMC) instead, as even liquidtight flexible metal conduit (LFMC), which can be buried, requires 18" of topcover.

You don't need wires that fat, either

Second, your 8AWG wires are quite a bit too large; for a general-use receptacle at a mere 85' distance, 12AWG will suffice.  (Rule of thumb: if the one-way length of the circuit is longer than the nominal voltage, then you start need to worrying about voltage drop.)

Other tip: put the GFCI at the house

Another tip here is to put the GFCI inside, at the house, where it is better sheltered from the weather.  While a good weatherproof box and while-in-use cover will do their darnest to keep rain out, they're still not as good as the roof of your house at it.  Also, don't forget to fit the bottom of your receptacle box with a weep hole (1/8" is fine) to both let water out and keep air pressure inside even.


How should I run CAT6 wiring from one side of my house to the other? I want to run CAT6 wire through my house, from the wired west wall to the east end of the house, and I would like to do so as cheaply as possible.  I do have an inside storage space under the living room, but I have failed at fishing wire through this space.

I now wonder if I can get away with attic installation. We have fiberglass insulation in that space, so I am wondering if I should run the cable through piping. Can anyone recommend the size of piping I should use? Would I be better off using copper tubing than PVC (PVC is so much cheaper).

Use Cat5e (good for 1GbE) unless you have a spectacular reason to use Cat6a (10GbE)*. Cat6 is essentially a deprecated spec, nobody should be using it for new installations.
They make structured cabling conduit. It's cheaper than the PVC electrical conduit. PVC works great if you need something rigid. Copper would be incredibly expensive and complete overkill.
Your local hardware store probably has a book on retrofit electrical and structured wiring. It would be a good buy/read for someone who hasn't done wiring before.
Consider using your air ducts to run the wires. It's really not a good idea as you wont be able to clean the ducts anymore, but people do it when in a bind.

*Consumer computers probably wont come with 10GbE NICs for another decade. There's very little demand and the technology is incredibly expensive (compared to 1GbE). Most Internet connections are still <10Mb anyway, so 1GbE is already 100x faster than the primary use case.


Can oil from a pine tree stain my exterior paint? I have a very large pine tree in my back yard, and I believe that the oil somehow discolors the cream paint on my painted wooden siding. The discoloration is a grey blue color.

If I'm correct, then I would welcome a solution.

Thanks. I am located near Toronto in Canada. The tree is about twice the height of the house, and its lower limbs extend very close to the house. The tree is more or less south of the house. The side of the house in question sees the sun in the morning.
Last year I tried to climb the lower portion of the tree, and failed for it was covered in sticky sap.Follows is a picture of the contamination.

I bet what you are seeing is mildew growing on dust on the wall.  The dust can be formed of the white blush on the needles of the pine, or it may jsut be taht the pine protects the house from wind, so dust collects there.

I would expect dripping to be, well, more drip like -- more blobby.

If it's mildew, it should come off with a weak bleach solution.  (1 cup per gallon of water, along with a table spoon of TSP per gallon.  You may have to wash it once with the bleach, wait a day, then wash with the TSP.

it's actually sap, it is essentially oil based.  Try winter windshield washer fluid, about 40% alchohol, or diesel fuel, and a scotchbrite nylon scrubby.   DON'T use gasoline.


Is it worth spending extra to get a nicer circular saw? I'm doing some small projects such as building a workbench, and I don't have a saw to cut plywood with. I've got a 12" compound miter saw, so I don't currently need a circular saw for anything other than cutting plywood.

I looked around and I think I found a good quality DeWalt saw as a candidate for ~$140. I also found some really cheap Harbor Freight saws for $25-$35. Is it worth paying 4x the price for a quality saw, if all I'll be using it for is the occasional plywood cut? (I'm also a little worried about safety issues with such a cheap saw. Do the blades have a higher chance of flying apart and sending shrapnel toward the user?)

Follow-Up:

I ended up going for a mid-range saw and buying a Ridgid. Several different factors weighed in on my decision:

I borrowed a friend's 25 year old Craftsman, and one of the features I wish it had the most was a front and rear kerf indicator for both sides of the blade. It got annoying fast not knowing exactly where the cut line would be. The Ridgid has this. The DeWalt mentioned above doesn't.
Tool weight and feel. I went to HD and held all the saws. I really liked how the Ridgid felt.
Degree and depth markings. I was looking for a saw that had a positive stop at 45° bevel. The depth indication also helps a ton.
Warranty: The Ridgid came with a 90 day money back guarantee, a 3 year warranty, and a limited lifetime service warranty.
Did I mention it's QUIET? I can barely tell a difference when it's cutting vs. no load.

The first cut I made with my new saw was at a 45° bevel through 1/2" plywood, and it didn't catch or bind at all. I'd recommend it - unless it ends up breaking in the near future, which I highly doubt.

I wouldn't worry so much about blades flying out, even when using a cheap harbor freight saw. What is more likely to happen is the motor will burn out quicker than a quality tool. I've bought many harbor freight tools for "time to time" use. I've got a drill press that's lasted quite a long while ... granted I only use it a few times a year so I got my money's worth.

I think you'd be fine with the cheap saw as long as you're not going to use it all that often. The blade won't come flying out but the motor will probably burn out and fail long before the DeWalt motor would.


4 black wires for light switch box, 3 white w/ Picture Was trying to replace light switch because old one was not aesthetically pleasing. Thought this was going to be easy as Ive done many before but was thrown off by so many black wires. Not sure what wire goes where and when I try to turn on the breaker it automatically trips back. Please help!!!

If your new switch is the same as the old you have skinned a wire or have hot touching ground.  You should be able to connect all of the black wires together and the light would be on all the time and not trip the breaker . The switch is a simple open closed device. 1 hot feeding another device and the switch to the light when the switch is in the on position all the wires are connected. You need to find the short, it could be by chance the lamp failed with a short , not likely but a possibility a skinned black wire touching the metal box will cause the breaker to trip.

Another possibility is a switch leg where white is used as a hot I cannot clearly see the rest of the wiring , if you only messed with the 1 pig tail (just black wires) look for the damaged insulation.


What type of Cat 6 cable to run behind basement studs? I have a finished basement and would like to install and consolidate my house's wired ethernet cables in a data panel in one of the cabinets.  I need to run wires around to the other side of the basement.  The wall studs were placed several inches away from the concrete basement walls and bats of insulation were placed between the concrete walls and the studs.  Cables could be fished around and behind the studs with minimal cabinetry removal.  (The cabinets were screwed onto the studs before the dry wall.)
The problem is that the ethernet would have an irregular run and would lie on the ground, on/through insulation, over old pipes and then up into the desired rooms.
Flexible carlon-style ENT conduit might fit, but might not, and might require additional hole drilling.  Fishing individual wires would be much easier.   Also, I don't know how easy it'd be to pull through the irregular run of flexible ENT conduit.  I think that grey PVC conduit would be very difficult.  Securing it would be near impossible given what's back behind there.

What type of Cat 6 cable would be suitable for this location?  Direct burial?  Riser?
Is it OK to run it along the basement concrete.

Riser should be fine unless you expect it to really get wet, in which case a waterproof version might be wise for a bit more money. Since you are using inside, a waterproof cable needs to be an "indoor/outdoor" rated cable - strictly outdoor cables are not tested for and may not meet indoor smoke ratings, and are limited to 50 feet from the point they enter the building.
We run plenum or riser attached to concrete all the time in industrial work.
I still recomend conduit for the reasons I always recommend conduit for networking (future-proofing and rodent-proofing (EMT), or at least resisting for the plastic stuff.) Perhaps metallic flex conduit if EMT is too daunting and you'd like tooth-proof. Comparatively expensive, though.
However, since it appears that you could run new cable as easily in the future as you can now, you can probably get away with just doing that. I would suggest using some cable ties with screw holes to support the cables by attachment to the studs, where accessible, rather than just draping them on the floor the whole way.


Sink drain too far from the wall My drain is too far away from the wall. I cannot fit the cabinet.
While I recognize I can push it horizontal arm it is not good enough which means I have to cut pipe which is in the wall.
Can I just cut wall tube and use some kind of adapter?

I assume your asking about how to tie your sink drain to the wall stub. Standard 1 1/2" PVC drain pipe has slp compression fittings that give you a lot of flexibility in setting up your P trap and drain. In most cases you can make adjustments without shortening the wall stub.
However, in some cases you may have to shorten the wall stub. If you absolutely have to shorten it you can do so by cutting it on the wall side of the connector in the picture. Don't trim off any more than you absolutely have to. Do a square cut and debur the end. You can then buy a new connector and attach it with PVC adhesive. Follow all directions regarding priming, etc.
Here is a guide on setting up a proper P trap:


How can I stop loud rushing water sounds when we flush? Whenever we flush or turn on the two outdoor faucets, the sound of rushing water in the pipes is unbearable. If we open any other faucet in the house the sound of rushing water is normal, but flush any of our three toilets or outdoor faucets and the sound will wake you from your sleep. What could this be. I doubt the problem lies with the toilet because it occurs in all three. It is to the point that we hesitate to flush at night in fear of waking up the entire house. I believe I have one of those restrictor valves in the hallway closet. Could that need adjustment?

Find the water lines and put some insulation around them. That's about the only thing you can do without running a different kind of line.


How to smooth out a stucco exterior? We have stucco on the exterior of the house. It is a sand/float finish, I believe, and it looks like this.  It is a medium to coarse version of this finish.

How do I go about making this smooth by doing it myself?
Do I have to scrape off the existing stucco or can I actually just put a layer on top of it and fill in the gaps until I have a smooth exterior?

I would pressure wash the entire surface with plain water. Make sure to keep about 18 inches away from the surface and use a wide fan tip. You want to wash it well, but you don't want to peel off any of the material. Allow the surface to dry for 2-3 days.

If the stucco is structurally sound and there is no loose or peeling paint, you can use a bonding agent such as Weld-Crete. Then you can apply new stucco right over the top of your existing finish.

Kirk Giordano is one of the country's greatest plastering companies and he has many videos that detail how to get a variety of finishes.


How do you interlock 2 pieces of plywood What is it called when you cut 2 grooves in plywood so that they will interlock with each other perpendicular?  What is the best tool for the job?  Just a circular saw?  A router?

A router with a straight bit or a table saw with a dado stack are the two best options for this task.

A dado stack will be more versatile if you have multiple widths of plywood that you want to work with:

A straight router bit isn't adjustable in width, but it will produce a cleaner bottomed cut. They're often available in sets for different sizes of plywood:

If you'd rather not spend the money on either of those, you can always use a table saw with a regular 1/8" kerf blade and make several passes. Then you can clean up the bottom of the groove with a chisel. I wouldn't recommend trying this with a circular saw, but if you do, you'll definitely need to make a straight cutting jig for it.


Mold Growing on Top of Exterior Door I am not that knowledgeable with mold. On my exterior front door by the head and the door stop I have mold growing. I checked the drywall and it doesn't seem to have any water damage. I was thinking to wipe away the mold but I thought it might comeback twice as worse so I wanted to check and see what the community had to say.

Background Information

There are really only four things necessary for mold growth:

Mold Spores
Mold Food (Organic Substance)
Appropriate Temperatures
Considerable Moisture

Resources

The best way to control mold growth, is to control moisture. One good resource available to you is the Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home from the US EPA. The US CDC has the following recommendations for decreasing mold exposure:

Never mix bleach with ammonia or other household cleaners. Mixing
bleach with ammonia or other cleaning products will produce
dangerous, toxic fumes.
Open windows and doors to provide fresh air.
Wear non-porous gloves and protective eye wear.
If the area to be cleaned is more than 10 square feet, consult the
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide titled Mold
Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on
schools and commercial buildings, this document also applies to other
building types. You can get it by going to the EPA web site at
http://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html.
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using bleach or
any other cleaning product.

Advice

As a Certified Indoor Air Quality Technician, I can tell you that bleach will in fact make mold worse. Bleach is very effective in removing the discoloration but leaves the microflora that will enable the mold to return in exactly the same spot when conditions are right. The most effective means of destroying molds, are biocides and anti-microbial solutions.

Recommendation

As far as your door is concerned, specifically:

Check the weather stripping and insure a good seal.
Check the serviceability of your HVAC system. Air Conditioners are
also dehumidifiers.
Keep the doors clean of organic substances - mold can even grow on
dirt.
Ask an IAQT to test the mold spores and determine the type of mold.
Clean the area with rubbing alcohol, or a solution with 60%-90%
alcohol.


What are the two tubes connected to my refrigerator? I bought a used whirlpool refrigerator, I don't know if something is missing or what. There are two plastic tubing lines coming out of the back of the refrigerator. Now I know one needs to connect to the in flowing water tube from the wall. But I cannot figure out why the second one is there and what it needs to connect to.  I hooked the gray to the main water source. But, when I turn the water on the The clear line seaped water when the pressure started to mount . Where should that clearline be hooked to?   Please help

Sounds like the tubing is reversed, there is a valve that will hold pressure from one direction only. I have never seen gray line connected to main supply.
There really is no Hot water connection to a refrigerator. Although hot water will freeze faster than ambient, that would defeat the purpose of a refrigerator, by pumping in hot water. Besides the water doesn't stay on long enough for it to work well. The gray line most likely goes in a tray under your fridge. The drain from the in door water tray has to go somewhere. So I have seen them in a tray so that the heat from the compressor and fans will evaporate the wasted water and melting ice cubes.


How to hang very heavy (marble, granite, quartz, etc.) shelves on drywall and studs? I am planning a kitchen remodel and I have been looking into hanging some kind of stone-ish shelves on one wall. Surprisingly, I'm having a hard time finding much information on the feasibility of this idea. I know that these shelves will be very heavy, but I wonder if it is possible to anchor them to studs through the drywall, or if I will need to do something more difficult to ensure that the shelves are stable. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Anchoring them to studs is just fine, your main problem is going to be getting brackets that will support that amount of weight. The amount of weight each bracket will support will be printed on the package. I would consult your granite or stone supplier for weights of their products.

You MUST make sure that you're anchored into studs, though, and preferably with three inch wood screws that are NOT drywall screws.


Suggestion installing receptacles on basement wall? I plan to install four 20 amp duplex receptacles on a basement concrete wall in area marked by red rectangle (see picture). Along the top of wall is a plumbing drain pipe.

Suggestions for installing the receptacles in this area that are compliant with code? The breaker box is about 15' away on an opposite wall.

Surface mount boxes and conduit are the usual. I don't believe you'd have to run conduit all the way back to the box if you terminate it properly.
You could also hang 2x4 lumber from the ceiling joists as a pseudo-wall, or simply plywood and attach wire and boxes to that.


How can I tell if there is brick behind plaster on a fireplace? We have a 1952 home with a fireplace in it (original to home).  There is brick around the opening of the fireplace, then a wooden frame and then plaster about 8" past the wood frame and back about 8" to the wall.  It goes up about 8" to the small wooden mantel and then appears to have plaster up to the ceiling from the mantel but that is only about 2.5" thick.   Is there a way to tell if there is brick behind the plaster?

Yes, you can cut a hole in the plaster and see if there is brick behind it.

Perhaps an easier way is if this is on an outside wall and the brick no the outside goes all the way up. If so, odds are that it goes all the way up on the inside, as this would likely have been a full masonry chimney when it was built (as opposed to modern fireplace inserts which typically just have a metal insulated flue rather than a full chimney).

Note that if your intention is to expose all that brick, you may be let down as often brick that was pre-determined to be covered is not the 'good' bricks and the mortar may not have been raked at all. Sometimes, they just plaster right on top of the brick as well, and that can be a long, tedious chore to remove (as plaster adheres wonderfully to brick).


LED downlight remains on after switch is turned off So for the past week or so now, when I turn the switch off for the down lights in the hallway, one of them which is an LED downlight begins to flicker a few times and remains on for about 5 seconds then decides to turn off. None of the other downlights do this, it's just this one. No one has fiddled with any switches, lights and no one has been in the roof so I'm not sure what the issue could be. I'm worried about an electrical fault which may result in a fire, etc....

Your help would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks,

Will

It could be the bulb circuitry going bad. LED lights are different in that most of the "bulb" is actually voltage conversion and a simple circuit system to regulate the LEDs.

This is just an educated guess, but what it sounds like is there's a capacitor inside that still has power in it. The light bulb itself probably has something that senses when the power is turned off and turns the LEDs off via software, letting the capacitor just lose voltage through attrition. If that part of the bulb stopped working, that capacitor could still power the LEDs for a few seconds before running out of power.

You can test this theory in a regular lamp. Just turn it on for a minute, then turn it off. I don't know that it's dangerous to let it keep on doing this (it's probably been doing it like this all along, just with the cutoff working), it's just not expected behavior. If it doesn't overheat in the lamp I wouldn't worry about it.


Which wires do I connect to my new ceiling fan? I looked all over the internet and my outlet box seems to have unorthodox wiring/ colors.

On the ceiling outlet box I have 3 thick wires,  red, white and green, and a fourth single little wire that is orange.

On the ceiling fan there is motor, light and neutral wire. There is also a little green wire connected to the mount which I think is the ground wire.

What connects to what?

I would like to add that this condo building is about 8 years old. So it's fairly new.

What was there before?  By the colors you describe, I suspect there was a hard wired smoke detector there, the smaller orange wire is daisy chained to all detectors so if one detects smoke/Co/extreme heat, all detectors go into alarm mode.  If you removed a smoke detector, you have violated local codes!


Is it OK to leave window opened and air conditioner ON (cooling) at night? At night temperature outside is usually lower than temperature set on AC. So looks like conditioned air should not leak outside (if it does, it is replaced with even colder air) and it is fine to leave window opened. Is this correct?

Note: when window is opened but AC is off, temperature quickly rises because of hot walls and inside sources of heat.

If you're confidant that the air leaving the house through the open window is warmer than the outside air that will come back in to replace it, I suppose it's OK to leave the window open. But I think a better solution would be to shut the AC off and use a window fan to circulate the cool outside air through the house. A window fan will be quieter and more energy efficient than an AC, and probably faster at cooling as well.

Which direction the fan faces doesn't matter a ton as long as you're moving the air around, but if you think about the goal of getting the hot air out of the house and the cool air in, here are some ways to think about it:

If the wind is generating any air movement through a window, use the fan in the same direction. No point in fighting nature.
If you have a single floor, put one fan blowing in and one fan blowing out, at opposite sides of the house.
If you have several floors, put a fan on the lower floor blowing in, and a fan on the upper floor blowing out.
If you still can't decide, point the fan facing out so that the waste heat generated by the fan isn't pushed into the room.


What happens if I shave a little sliver off electrical wire with a utility knife? I needed to replace an electrical wire with a longer one so I could move an electrical outlet.  When I went to cut away the outer rubber cover of one of the wires with a utility knife (yes, dumb, I know), I accidentally shaved off a wee little sliver of copper from the wire.  Everything works fine, but I am wondering if it's something serious that could affect the transfer of electricity or cause other problems.

It has since been installed, so I don't remember if it was the hot, neutral, or ground at this point.  Should I redo it with a different wire?  I can't cut off any more of the wire as I didn't allow myself that much slack.

If you are talking about something the size of a splinter then you have no problem. I doubt if you shaved enough off to change the ampacity of the wire.  The main reason not to use a knife (other than safety) is scoring the electrical wire and making it easier to break off.  Wire strippers normally go enough of the insulation to make it weak enough to come off with little effort.


What type of electrical supply is this? (Canada) I'm interested in buying a home-energy monitoring product, the type with current sensors that clamp onto one or more main electrical feed wires.  In order to determine what products would work, and how many sensors are needed, I'm wondering what sort of electrical supply arrangement I have.  It looks to me like there are two hot lines, one neutral, and one ground line.
Specifically, I'm wondering if based on this arrangement, is all of the current flowing through the neutral line (i.e. I'd need only one current sensor), or would it fit into another category as shown in the chart below?
Here's an image of the panel (I believe it is a subpanel, it is in a condo building):

Here are the sort of categories mentioned in the product literature:

This is, unfortunately typical, poor design of the instructions page. Hopefully the product is engineered better than the instructions.
I believe the instructions are supposed to show "2 CT Sensors" for the first 3 rows of the table. Instead, they only show that for the 3rd row and the table is structured so that it can be instead interpreted as "for the first 2 lines we have no idea how many CT sensors you will actually need, and for the 3rd line, 2 CT Sensors". Which of course makes no sense whatsoever. That is basically a "formatting problem" - a disconnect between the engineer's scrawl and the desktop publishing person's implementation.
Except that actually, as I think about it a little more, line 2 - 240V 3-wire is not correct. If it were a true "240V only" then it would be 2-wire and 240V. If it were 120V/240V then it would be 3-wire and 120V. Instead it is listed as 3-wire (implying a neutral wire, and therefore 2 wires with CT Sensors, each 120V) and 240V (implying no neutral wire, and therefore only need 1 wire with CT Sensor, 240V). It doesn't add up.
As noted by others, the first item really should be "120/240". If it was pure 120 (which is possible for very small service) then it would only be 2 wire rather than 3 wire and only 1 CT Sensor - so it does not match the first line, implying that first line, described as "TYPICAL", really should be "120/240".