Adding an electrical outlet to a toilet/tub room I would like to add a GFCI electrical outlet in a toilet/tub room. I can tie into a dedicated 20 amp switch circuit for the light/vent/heater in the toilet/tub room. I am concerned about having enough room in the single gang box for the light/vent/heater switch to add the additional pigtail and GFCI supply.
Conversely I can tie in to a 15 amp circuit for the adjoining bedroom outlets and light switches, however I’ve read that a bathroom GFCI should be on a 20 amp circuit.
Any perspective would be appreciated.
Dave

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that

You can't tie into the bedroom 15A because (a) bathroom receptacles are supposed to be on 20A circuits and (b) bathroom receptacles are supposed to be dedicated to bathrooms. They can either be shared with other bathrooms or with lights in the same bathroom. So the bedroom circuit is not an option.
You can't use the heater circuit unless it is a pretty wimpy heater. Generally speaking, you can't put any receptacles onto a circuit that has 50% hard-wired load. That is not an issue with lighting (especially with LED lighting, but even with incandescent in most residential applications) but it is an issue with heaters. That light/fan/heater circuit is a dedicated 20A circuit because of the power needed by the heater. Typical heaters will use 1500W. Some might be a bit less, but anything more than 1,000W or so and you hit the 50% rule.

What you can do is to add a new 20A circuit (of course) or if there are other receptacles in the bathroom, you can connect to those.

Update based on comments:
It appears that the goal is not to add a "GFCI electrical outlet" per se, which would typically be understood to mean a duplex receptacle for plugging in various devices, but rather the goal is apparently to add another hardwired light fixture. That is a different matter entirely.
An additional low-power lighting fixture, such as an LED fixture designed for use as a night light, can certainly be tied in to the same power source used for the primary heat/light/fan. That solves the "GFCI problem" - no GFCI needed for hardwired lighting. That solves the "connecting to a non-bathroom circuit problem" - that (a) is for receptacles and (b) you wouldn't actually be connecting to a non-bathroom circuit.
There may still be issues with box fill, so expanding the box in some way, or adding another box nearby, may be necessary to make all this work. But you can do it on the existing circuit.
FYI, "you can't put a GFCI on a 15-amp circuit in a bathroom" is not actually true. What is true is that a new bathroom is required to have a 20-amp circuit dedicated to the bathroom (or possibly bathrooms), and that circuit must have GFCI protection for the receptacles. However, if you have an older bathroom with 15-amp circuits (as I do), retrofitting GFCI makes sense for safety - as my electrician did many years ago, I don't think he really asked, I think he just said "you need this" (when he was in my house doing other things I asked for) and he was right.


Making sure this wall is just a partition and not load bearing We are considering widening this existing opening and installing double doors.  Is there any chance that this wall is load bearing?
I was going to be overly cautious and put up temporary supports for the trusses above.  But I'm wondering if I'm being paranoid.
Except for a small angle brace toward one end of the opening, the trusses aren't directly connected to the top plate of the, 6' wall below .  There is a gap the same thickness as the ceiling drywall between them.  One of the trusses above the wall is blocked (if that's the correct term) with the next one down.
Construction of the wall is with 2x6s.  I believe there is a double top plate.  A portion of an adjacent wall runs outside.
If this short, 6' wall is indeed load bearing, what is the best way to support the ceiling/roof until the new framing is in place?

Not structural.
The 1/2" gap (with the little coupling bracket) between the truss and the diagonal wall, and the straight wall not even being under the truss are clear indications.


Putting portable air conditioner hose in bucket of water Does it really work to use the hose to heat water in a bucket?    I do not want to leave my windows open at night for the hose to go outside.   I have heard the hot air from the portable air conditioner can be disposed of in this way.

This won't work in that simplified form. Even if the water did absorb a bit of heat as the air passed through, the water would heat up fairly quickly, at which point it would stop absorbing heat from the air. "Dissipation" doesn't mean "disappeared". The heat still exists somewhere. You'd have to change the water regularly. Also, you'd be adding moisture to the air via evaporation and possibly effervescence, countering the cooling effect of the air conditioner.

Now, if you wanted to split the airflow into many tiny tubes, provide a large quantity of cold water, and change the water regularly, it could work. Maybe. But probably not very well.


What type of wall texture is this, and how do you remove it? What type of wall texture is this called?
What is the best way to remove it so I can replace it with orange peel?

That looks like skip trowel. Regardless, your solution depends on if it's plaster or drywall mud.

If it's plaster, you can skim coat it or have it removed and reapplied. Both require a bit of skill and it's best done by a professional. This will not come cheap.

If it's just mud, a skim coat is fairly easy to do but takes time and patience. You can thin down some ready mix mud, apply it with a 3/4 nap roller, then scrape off the excess with a 12" drywall knife. This will probably take a few coats, but it can be accomplished by a diyer. After you have the wall to mostly smooth plane, prime with PVA and you can apply your orange peel texture. Then just prime and paint.

Another solution is to put on 1/4" drywall directly over it. But this is a big job with taping seams, altering trim around doors and windows, extending electrical boxes, and applying texture.

Just to cover all options, it's "possible" to sand smooth. Even renting a power sander hooked up to a shop vac, this will produce a lot of dust. Plaster and certain drywall mud types are really hard to sand. I wouldn't do it.

Also, I would rent a texture sprayer. The cans of texture are really only for touch up and the fumes are pretty bad. Mask off with builders paper or poly sheets anything you don't want texture on. It's all in the prep work.


How to measure a hex or jam nut? I need a jam/hex nut for the mic input for the below speaker. On the picture the connector have been pushed in because the nut is missing.

Question

It should be a 3/8-32 jam nut, but how can I verify this?
How do I measure the size of the current?

I would first check that the missing hex nut is the same size as nut on one of the two output jacks. This can be done by removing one and seeing if it fits on the jack with the missing nut. This temporarily removed nut can be used as a sample for comparison when buying a new nut.

Nuts of this style should be readily available via online retailers such as Digikey or Mouser. If you go to a retail store it may be harder to find the nuts as an individual purchase item. You may find yourself purchasing a whole replacement jack and stealing the nut from it to replace the missing one on your speaker. Some of the really good (often older) hardware stores will have specialty drawers with various odd ball fasteners and nuts. You could get lucky and find your replacement nut there.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogusd/647/2952.pdf


Is it safe to extend the drain hose on my LG washer? I just purchased an LG washer, model WM3900HWA. The drain hose is not long enough to reach the stand pipe. I have seen this post where the answer is to simply buy a longer drain hose. However, the user manual for this washer says the following:

Do not install the drain hose with the end lower than 29.5 inches (0.7
m) or higher than 96 inches (2.4 m) above the bottom of the washer or
more than 60 inches (1.5 m) away from the washer.

How should I interpret the "60 inches away from the washer"? Is that just horizontal distance, or any combination of horizontal and vertical distance? The stand pipe is definitely closer than that, but I've never done anything with plumbing before so I want to make sure there isn't something I'm missing here.

I would not extend the drain hose that is supplied with the machine.
However, what I have done in the past is to put a stand pipe closer to the machine with a U trap to prevent the smells coming back up.
I did that with 2" pipe which solved the problem and never caused any back up for the machine.
The 60" is usually taken as horizontal distance but the man ual will make that clear.


How do I replace a ceiling fan controlled by 2 wall switches with a standard wall plug outlet? I am ceiling mounting a projector in my home theater room and I need to mount it where there used to be a ceiling fan with light kit.  The fan and light were controlled by two wall switches.  I'm planning to replace the ceiling outlet with a surge protected wall outlet to power the projector.  My question is, how should I wire the wall outlet given there are two wall switches that currently control the power to the ceiling outlet?

Note that the ceiling fan electrical box will not be the same as a standard box for a receptacle. You will have to find a suitable faceplate that will adapt to a round/octagonal box, or you will have to change the box itself.

Option 1

Break the tab on the hot side of the receptacle, and wire the two hot wires separately to each screw terminal on the receptacle.

This will cause the two outlets to be controlled independently by the two wall switches.

Option 2

Cap the extra hot wire in the ceiling and wire the receptacle to the one remaining hot wire. Do not break the tab. Remove the switch that controls the hot wire you capped, and cap that wire on the switch end as well. This will control both halves of the receptacle with one switch.

Option 3

If your wiring was done with a switch loop (meaning the power comes into your ceiling box and not your switch box), then you can wire the un-switched hot in your ceiling box directly to your receptacle and make it un-switched. You could then decide what to do with the switches on your wall, but they would no longer control your ceiling box.

Option 4

If the setup does not use a switch loop, you could remove one switch, splice the hot in your switch box to that switch leg, and then you would have un-switched power to the ceiling box.

Keep in mind some of these setups are not "expected" wiring methods and might throw some people for a loop.


150 volts at outlet? I tested my outlets the other day and found 148-152 volts at all my outlets. I then tested all my outlets with a commercial electric ms112h outlet tester and all tested good but still 150 volts. I then shut off all breakers except 1 outlet circuit still 150 volts. I then tried a different outlet circuit still 150 volts. What would my next step be?

I live in Oregon.
I was using a Craftsman volt meter 82141 low end but seems like a good meter.

A typical "Magic 8-Ball" tester like the one you are using will activate with a broad range of voltages. The exact voltage will vary depending on the technology used, but I'd say it is a reasonable bet that anything between 70V and 250V (which would allow for some really messed up wiring without zapping the device or the user) will light up.

The multimeter is a more reliable device when it comes to specifics. It would be very unusual, though not impossible, for a modern multimeter to be 20% off - reading 125V as 150V. As it turns out, the problem was the multimeter battery, but keeping this answer as it could be relevant to others in the future. I would do the following:

Test against a different voltage source. Simplest would be mains voltage in a different building. If that is not an option, try a battery powered device, though AC and DC could be "off" by different amounts. You can also try the output of a device that takes a broad range of inputs and produces one stable output - e.g., a laptop charger will typically take 90V - 250V and output 18V or some other very specific value. Assuming the multimeter checks out OK on other stuff...
Determine whether you have "all high" or "half high, half low". The easiest way to do this is to check a "240V with neutral" receptacle - e.g., for a dryer or oven. You should measure nominally 240V hot-hot and 120V for both hot-neutral measurements. If you get 300V hot-hot and 150V for both hot-neutral measurements then you are "all high" (which I would find very unusual). If you have 240V hot-hot, 150V for one hot-neutral and 90V for the other hot-neutral then you likely have a lost neutral.

If the end result is either "all high" or "lost neutral", CONTACT YOUR ELECTRIC UTILITY IMMEDIATELY. Either one would be a very dangerous situation. "All high" will zap anything that is finely tuned for the standard 110V-120V or 220V-240V ranges. But potentially even worse is a lost neutral - it will zap 1/2 your devices by being too high, 1/2 by being too low ("brownout" type problems) and it can vary unpredictably as devices get turned on and off and pose a real human safety hazard.


Regulations for buried cable in the UK I'm running a cable from my house to a site in my back garden where I am building a shed. The length of the cable run is about 7-8 metres. I have steel armoured cable which is OK for direct burial.

Is there any regulation for the UK about what depth the cable needs to be buried to? I've started digging a 'slot' but it is really hard going due to the number of stones under the turf.

This is the cable I am using:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B7DJZL8

as I understand it BS7671 requires that the cable is buried deep enough to prevent the cable being disturbed by any reasonably foreseeable disturbance of the land but does not specify a particular depth. There should also be a warning tape burried above the cable.

Normally though the recommendation for a domestic garden is around half a meter. That is enough to give it some margin beyond the depth of a typical spade.

If you will be be getting an electrican to connect up and certify this I would strongly advise talking to them first before you buy and install the cable.


Is hanging beam a type of vertical members? per wiki

  A joist is a horizontal structural member used in framing to span an open space, often between beams that subsequently transfer loads to vertical members.

What does "vertical member" mean here? Is hanging beam a type of such vertical members?

A beam is a Horizontal member, it transfers the load to the vertical members such as wall studs or posts.

When you lay down on a bed or on the floor you are the horizontal position, When you are standing on your feet you are in the vertical position.

Wikipedia


How should I caulk clapboard? I have been installing new clapboard siding on my house. It is primed finger jointed cedar. The one time I had a friend help me he questioned my method of caulking. What I have been doing is installing the lengths then applying a bead of caulk to the ends where they meet the trim boards (I think that's what they are called. Basically, these are the long boards that run from the top to bottom of each corner) then finger smoothing the bead.

He suggested that I should be applying a thick bead of caulk, then apply the board squashing the board into the caulk.

Is there a preferred method? And is it one of the ones I listed?

I don't think your friend's suggestion is bad, but I'd still want to be sure the caulk extended all the way to the exposed surface of the siding.  Better not to let water get into the crack at all than to let it get in and stuck between siding and trim but blocked from penetrating further by caulk.

Why?

Because in winter, water that's in the crack will freeze, expand, and make bigger cracks.  Water on the surface can do no harm.


Should I plaster the walls in my new house? I have a newly built house and I'm evaluating how to proceed with the painting of the rooms, to define what I can do myself and what has to be done by professionals.

The ceiling is already spray-plastered, it looks rough and nice.

The walls are of two types: concrete (outer walls, grey) or gypsum (inner walls, yellowish). The builder used plaster to make the bricks uniform, that means that he used it only or almost only in the joints between bricks. There is no thick layer over the whole walls as I was used to see in the past.

I have NO drywall.

See for example the following two photos (one has been taken before the ceiling got plastered).

Some corners (see the second photo) are visibly darker where the roof has been sealed last.

My plan was to spray a primer all over the walls (not ceiling) and then go with one (ceiling) or two (walls) coats of latex paint.

I was suggested that plastering the whole wall may be a better option, to improve the ability of the wall to absorb and release humidity and to provide a better surface. Also, one coat of paint may be enough if the surface is already white.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of plastering? should I do it?

When I built my house 20+ years ago, my wife and I opted  for 2 coat, hard coat plaster instead of drywall with taped joints, since she wanted to paint all the walls with a semi-gloss paint finish. The semi-gloss finish would have been impossible since it would have highlighted the taped joints. We were told that if you use taped joints you could only use a flat finish that tends to hide those taped joints. The whole house is now painted with a semi-gloss finish which she can wash or remove any marks put there by people and grand-kids. If you opt for a plaster finish make sure you use enough paint coatings. We used 2 primer and 2 finish. She is happy, so you know I am also happy.


Holding plywood between bars for shelves? I have a small balcony that has wrought iron bars on either side. The width between the bars is about 5ft. I wanted to place several 1"x6" plywood pieces between the bars for some small plants.
In other words, the iron bars on either side would act as the columns for the shelves. The problem is I'm not sure how to hold the shelves to the columns.
My question: without welding or damaging the iron bars, what's an inexpensive way to place the plywood between the iron bars?
The keyword here is "inexpensive" because if it's too much, then I might as well buy a shelf set.
Here's what I was thinking of:

If it doesn't need to hold much weight a cheap way would be to use a U bolt and U bracket.

Attach the U bolt to the vertical pipe, with the U bracket held behind it and screwed to the sheet.
A bit stronger, and probably not much more money, would be a shelf bracket held on by two hose clamps. This would allow several screws into the wood.

If you want to get fancier there are special clamps of all sorts for fastening things to metal tubes.  Search for example for temporary handrail hardware.
Here's an example of one that is very expensive.


Using spare red insulated 10 gauge wire as a ground I had some spare 10/3 NM cable from which I repurposed the black, white, and bare wires and ran through conduit. There's a circuit junction nearby that doesn't have a ground and isn't spliced inside a j-box. The line side is just a hot and a neutral. The load side goes to a light outside and is 14/2 NM cable. The spare red wire from the 10/3 NM, can I use that to ground the 14/2 NM and just identify it as a ground with green electrical tape every few feet?
The portions of the NEC I've read pertain to identifying the neutral but I can't find something that references the coloring of an earth/grounding wire.

Keep in mind that you can't use wires pulled out of cable because the insulation is not marked. You also have to have all splices inside a junction box.
But to answer the question, you can't use a red wire for ground, but you can strip all the insulation off the conductor because a bare wire for ground is OK.  It might take a few minutes depending on the length and the tools at hand.


How can I stop gurgling at discharge outlet from sump pump? I had a sump pump installed. Approximately a year later, after the pump runs, there is a loud gurgling noise accompanied by vibration from the pipes. During high water seasons, this leads to a constant and annoying gurgling sound.

The sump pump line goes (relatively) straight up ~8'.  The check valve is located ~4' above the pump.  Once the line hits the ceiling it runs horizontally ~15' then turns right 90 degrees, drops 6" to get under the beams, runs horizontally another 6' and then descends at ~45 degrees another 2' to where it turns left and exits through the foundation.

The gurgling seems to occur in the descent to the exit point through the foundation (based on sound and feeling the gurgles in the pipe).  It doesn't seem that this would be due to a failing check valve because of it's young age and that the noise doesn't seem to originate near the valve (unless it's losing a necessary vacuum).

How can I reduce this noise?

If you have the clearance, you could put an air admittance valve at the high point of the drain. I'm not sure of the code on that, but since this isn't for a drain into the waste stack, it might be permitted. I would be reluctant to put it in a blind location though.


Is it advisable to connect a sump pump to pop-up sprinkler heads? My home doesn't offer a great place to eject sump water due to a very level landscape. I'm thinking of adding 3-5 standard pop-up sprinkler heads to the output line. This would allow better distribution of the ejected water than though a single output point.

However, since the system would need to be under pressure, I'd have to disconnect it seasonally and blow out the lines to prevent freeze damage.

Are there any other obvious downsides to this plan?

Ingenious, except I’d worry about: 1) timing, 2) seasonal conflict, 3) head contamination, 4) pressure stress.

1) Timing: Murphy’s Law...but you could locate the heads away from decks, walkways, etc.

2) Seasons: Seems like the sump pump would run most during the “wet” season and not during the “dry” season when the sprinklers need it most. Could you install a valve to allow a regular water source during the dry season? (It will be most difficult during the shoulder seasons.)

3) Head Contamination: I don’t know what the pump is draining, but it would need to be very very clean. Or, you’d need a filtering system...which sounds expensive.

4) Pressure Stress: You’ll need to “size” the system (number of heads) appropriately to match the size of the pump or it could blow the heads into your neighbor’s yard.


Should I replace entire houses sheathing? I have inherited a 1950s house that has vinyl over original wood siding over old fiber board. Much of the house's siding is damaged and needs replaced. I'm thinking of replacing the full house's sheathing so I can re-insulate it and install new windows and Hardie siding or vinyl. The question is "is ripping off all the sheathing over doing it or the best option?" Also, what type of insulation and sheathing should I use? I'm located in Wichita, Kansas.

Fiberboard is flimsy and might be damaged in the process of removing the vinyl siding anyway. I'd replace it if the opportunity presented itself.

While you have the stud cavities open, replace whatever's in there with mineral wool. Then sheathe with plywood. Cover that with 2+ inches of rigid foam. Preferably polyiso (best R-value per inch) and preferably foil-faced (radiant barriers are nice, and you can use the foil surface as your water-resistive barrier if you tape the seams properly--no Tyvek!). Install your new windows on the foam, not the sheathing (outie windows). Install vertical furring strips over the foam, and nail your new siding into that. This creates drainage cavities that promote drying, and allow the foil surface of the foam to act as a radiant barrier.

Update: if after removing the sheathing and insulation, you discover that the wall was built with an interior-side vapor barrier (usually clear polyethylene sheeting right under the drywall), use a razor knife to cut it out. The wall assembly will be much more robust, especially in conjunction with the kind of exterior insulation I'm recommending.


What consistency should drywall mud be? I've been reviewing various drywall videos and documentation but I haven't found clear details on what kind of thickness the joint compound should be.  Is there a definitive answer for this? Or does it vary?  Even videos with "pre-mixed" compounds still mention adding additional water.

Is there a rule of thumb or general guidelines for this?

I found it took me a couple hundred hours of applying mud to get to the point where I knew exactly how I wanted it to look.  I learned just fine by starting with the pre-mixed straight out of the bucket and slapping it on the wall.  You'll quickly notice the difference in application ("spreadability") when it starts to dry in your mud pan a little bit.  Then you add water - too much the first time of course - and the mud will fall off your knife before you can get it to the wall.

Just keep in mind, it might take more than two or three coats, but if you can spread it on the wall you can't really screw up the consistency.  If it's too dry, it will crumble as you press it with the knife, if it's too wet it will fall off your knife (and the wall).


Should a French drain be located near the water source or the foundation? Is it better to build your french drain at the at the base of the mound (an elevated leaching field) where the water comes down and toward the house or nearer the foundation you are trying to protect?

It’s better to install your French drain at the point you are trying to drain.

If you are protecting a basement, I’d install the drainpipe BELOW the concrete basement slab a minimum of 5-6”.

Remember, water will go in the direction of least resistance. When it’s moving through the soil/rock and hits the drainpipe, it will flow in the pipe much faster than in the soil/rock, thus causing the water to flow towards the pipe.

Water can move sideways through the soil or it can rise up through the soil from a rising watertable.


How to repair garage floor concrete damage near apron? I have a concrete garage floor that is cracking near the apron entry at the overhead door.  I'd like to understand how to repair this problem and if it's a project I can handle as a DIY-savvy person with zero concrete experience.

The garage floor is actually poured on top of a precast slab underneath (plastic sheeting between) which is the ceiling of a room below.  That sub-slab ends right where the full-length crack is shown which explains why it had cracked there.  This floor is a gravel/fiber concrete mix at a thickness of approximately 1.5 inches (at the cracking, anyway).  The width of the crack is generally 1/2-inch with a few wider areas.  The depth of the crack varies from 1.5 to 4+ inches because the substrate is eroding.

There are also 3 larger chunks of concrete (shown in the center of the picture) that have cracked all the way around and thus are lose...and I imagine should be removed and replaced with new material.

How should this be repaired and with what materials?

I've received a few suggestions from the home store but I couldn't tell if they really knew their stuff or just wanted me to buy stuff:

Use quick-setting cement plus bonding adhesive to repair the large voids from the broken/missing concrete.
Fill the crack to a reasonable depth with sand/backer rod and then apply a self-leveling caulking or concrete crack filler.
Or, use non-shrink precision grout in the crack.

From the description and photograph, it appears that the crack is the natural result of the sort of stresses one would expect at a location with:

Drastic change in slab width to extend the slab through the door opening.
Drastic change in thermal stress where the slab transitions from interior temperatures to exterior temperatures.
Drastic change in slab stiffness. Dynamic vehicle loads are applied sequentially from the rigidly supported portion directly above the wall below to the spanning portion where they create deflection in the supporting structure.

All of which is to say that repairing the joint does not mean filling it in. There will always be a joint there. Instead, repairing the joint probably consists of keeping water out using backer rod and a flexible traffic sealant rated for wide joints...and perhaps a metal joint cover.

There's no magic in a can that it going to defy the laws of physics or change the internal stresses of a concrete slab under dynamic vehicular loads. Any repair needs to be premised on acceptance that there will be a joint across the opening where the slab narrows.


Why is the sump pump inlet draining directly onto the float? Why is the sump pump inlet draining directly onto the float?  Won't this prevent it from rising most of the time?

Totally not a problem - if it was a problem, the sump would be overflowing and you'd be asking about the flood.

The force of a stream of water coming in from a side pipe to a sump is quite minor compared with the force of the collected water pushing up on the float.

Assume that it DID affect operation - once the water had risen to the level of the pipe, the incoming water would be flowing straight in OVER the float, and the float would not be affected. But I bet it never even gets close to that point, in reality.

If you like, take a 5 gallon bucket or a hose and dump/run water directly onto the float and watch what actually happens.


Cannot determine why breaker is tripping I have 2 bedrooms on a single breaker, and just yesterday, the breaker tripped.  No devices are plugged into any outlets.  Both rooms have ceiling fans (with lights).  Both rooms have 3 wall switches.  1 for the ceil fan's fan, 1 for the ceiling fan's light, and 1 controls the bottom-half of one of the wall outlets.  If all 3 switches in both rooms are off, I'm able to reset the breaker.  In one bedroom (bedroom A), all of the outlets work fine (testing with a night-light).  In the other bedroom (bedroom B), one of the outlets works, but if I plug the night-light into any of the other outlets (there are 3 others), the breaker trips.  I have replaced these 3 outlets, but no change.  I have also tested all outlets in both bedrooms with an outlet tester tool, and I get "correct" on all of them.  In bedroom B, 2 of the 3 "suspect" outlets have 5 wires going into them (2 hot, 2 neutral and 1 ground); the 3rd "suspect" outlet just has 1 hot and 1 neutral (and 1 ground).  If I completely remove/disconnect the 2 outlets in bedroom B that have the 5-wires, and just leave the wires dangling in open air, then Bedroom A is completely fine (ceiling fan and light included).  In Bedroom B, the 3rd "suspect" outlet is off, and the other outlet (the one that always works) still works.  The ceiling fan and light in bedroom B do not work; switching on bedroom B's switches does nothing; the breaker does not trip.  With those 2 outlets in bedroom B completely removed, there's nothing I can do to cause the breaker to trip.

Another data point: with all the outlets connected/installed, in either room, attempting to turn on the ceiling fan or ceiling fan light cause a trip (so, plugging something into bedroom B's 3 "suspect" outlets is not the only way to cause the trip).

I've visually inspected the wires in bedroom B's 3 "suspect" outlets, and they all look okay; I don't see any rips/tears in the wire's insulation, so I don't think there's a short or ground fault.

So I'm completely baffled, and I want to make sure I've tried as much as I can before I commit to calling an electrician.  What's strange is that nothing has "changed" in the past couple of days; I haven't nailed anything into any walls, and I have plugged anything out-of-the-ordinary into the outlets.  The house was built in 2008, so "old" wiring shouldn't be an issue.

Thank you very much for your time.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Just to close this question out, I followed the advice in the comments and did a stepwise disconnection of the various outlets and whatnot.  This led me to suspect the ceiling fan in bedroom B.  When I inspected its wiring, I noticed one of the ground wires was disconnected from the bundle it was tied-to (using one of hose colored plastic twisty things that look like a thimble).  I fixed that and voila, problem solved!  Thanks for all the comments and tips.


What is the name of this recliner couch screw holder? My Recliner Couch is missing a few of these Pieces that hold the screw in place between the metals. I am trying to get some new ones but I don' know what they are called and where I can buy them. Any ideas?

Doesn't really matter what they're called. They're almost certainly proprietary and shown in an exploded parts diagram somewhere with a number next to them. You won't find them in hardware stores (real or online).

You'll need to get in touch with the manufacturer one way or another, or you'll need to fabricate something that performs the same function without the efficiency of design afforded by that exact part. It could be that a block of nylon with dimples drilled in each face does the job, for example, or maybe a sleeve nut and some bolts.


How to Fix Central AC Bringing in Outside Air - Smokey outside We are located in San Francisco Bay area.  There's a huge fire almost every year.  We recently moved to a house where central AC brings in smokey outside air.  We have 2 young children and I'm worried about air being too dirty.  Does anyone know how to fix this?  Much appreciate your help!

There are two ways I could think of that you could be drawing in outside air:

The return ducting runs through an unconditioned space, like an attic or crawl space, and has a leak, or
The supply duct runs through an unconditioned space and has a leak.

The AC system should be sucking return air, heating or cooling it, and then supplying that same volume (approximately) back to the house. In the first case above, the AC intake is sucking from the return duct but also from the outside, because the return duct is at a lower pressure than the outside.
In the second case, a hole in a supply duct means the conditioned air is shooting out of a high(er) pressure duct to the outside. You might not think this is such a big deal, but that volume of air being lost means the AC intake is now lowering the pressure of the entire house trying to find makeup air to keep the total air volume the same. This means air will be sucked through any crack in your house to try to equalize the pressure - door seals, dryer vents, window sills, bathroom fans, etc.
Sometimes a window leaks bad and you can see the curtains rustling, especially when the wind blows. If the leaks are bad enough, the air will permeate through the house regardless of what the AC is doing.
Since you're saying the smells only happen while the AC is on, I would guess it's a leaking duct, again in an unconditioned space. It's not immediately clear to me how your return is setup, but I would guess there's a large intake grill on the other side of one of those walls that just dumps into the air handler intake.
That would narrow it down to an air leak in a supply duct in an unconditioned space. I would check for it by starting in the attic or crawl space and trying to listen for it. You might also be able to feel a temperature difference in the insulation.
Finally, the spots for leaks would probably be at the joints where sections meet, like elbows. If I had to bet, I guess something like a sagging duct under a crawlspace ripped open an elbow flange and the air is shooting out.


Conduit size for UF cable I need some advice that I'm having problems finding any conclusive answers for.

We are moving an electric water heater that is on a 20amp circuit outdoors (we live in South Florida)

I plan on running 10/2 UF cable from the box, under the house about 30ft in a dry crawl space. Then exit and go up 8ft to the water heater.

The water heater will go into a galvanized steel enclosure against the house.

My issues is that I would like to protect the UF cable from where it exits the crawl space to where it enters the water heater enclosure. About 8ft (2ft from inside the crawlspace 6ft up to the top of the water heater enclosure). I believe 8" of protection is required by code anyways to protect against vermits and weed wackers...

I know UF CAN be ran through conduit, but I'm having a hard time determining the correct size and determining the easiest/best conduit to use...

Does anyone have any suggestions or see an flaws in this plan?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

The answer is yes, you can run UF in conduit. For your short section this would be normal. I normally use 1 inch; it fits easily and the NM is not damaged. UF is slightly thicker but should fit it depends on the MFG; some are round and some are flat, 3 wire or 4 wire, etc. A water heater only needs 3 wire normally: 240v and ground with no neutral.

I usually have to have a section of metal flex conduit from the wall to a water heater to protect standard NM since smurf tube or non-metallic is not allowed and liquid tight is too expensive.


Fix a gap in flashing We had a sun room added to the first floor.  A few years later I noticed signs of a small water leakage causing bubbling in plaster on the inside beam in the house where the sun room meets the house.

I looked up, way up... and noticed a gap between the flashing and the siding where the tar paper is exposed to the elements.  This would be a likely cause of the water leak as we do sometimes get driving rain that could come in.

The gap exposing the tar paper is twelve feet long and about two inches high.

What can I seal this with that will stand up to strong sun exposure and water?

Perhaps slide a thin piece of aluminum flashing up under the aluminum siding so that it overlaps the lower flashing.  Attach it with a few nails just under the lip of the siding and spray the nail heads with the spray rubber stuff or put a dab of caulk over them.


Does UV exposure cause deterioration to PVC pipe which can lead to catastrophic failure? I've heard over the years that PVC should never be exposed to ultraviolet radiation, or the pipe will crumble and disintegrate. Though upon researching the subject, it seems as though UV radiation only reduces the impact strength of the pipe.  Is UV degradation is a real problem, or a half truth propagated by the internet.

According to an article by United States Plastic Corp. (Is PVC and CPVC pipe UV resistant?), and a technical bulletin released by JM Eagle. Only the pipe's impact resistance is reduced, while both tensile strength and modulus showed no reduction.

While I know that painting, or wrapping the pipe can eliminate any damage. I wonder if it's even worth the effort to do so, in most situations? Since the pipe maintains it's pressure capacity and stiffness, is protection required if the pipe is in an area where it's not subject to physical damage? Can UV radiation alone, cause a catastrophic failure of the pipe?

I work in an environment that has 384 54W T8 fluorescent lamps and one PVC pipe. The pipe was unwrapped and began failing (crumbling apart) in 9 years. It wouldn't have held up to a someone bumping into it for probably a year prior to that, either. Your conditions will probably be less extreme, but it's a good idea to wrap or paint your pipe.


Is it possible to store air compressor filled without damage from water? I'd like to keep my air compressor filled for quick tire top-offs, like at gas stations.  The manual says to empty the tank after 4 hours.  How do gas stations avoid draining this often?  Is it possible with a consumer compressor?

Pressure tanks are usually steel, steel is somewhat flexible, it stretches a bit when filled, if the tank is left full it can shorten the life of the tank, I used to have a small scuba shop and did tank inspections as required annually, with hydrostatic testing every 5 years , the recommended pressure for long term storage for all tanks was 500 psi this is for tanks that range from 2200-3500 psi working pressure. I once purchased 4 steel tanks that had been sitting for close to 15 years at 3300 psi they were 3000 psi tanks, I dumped the air and had them hydrostaticly tested in fact all 4 tanks passed by enough to get the + rating that allowed them to get the 10% over fill. After that I did not pay much attention to that guide line but did tell my students the guideline and my experience so Can it be left full sure it may shorten the life of the tank , just make sure to blow the water out of the tank prior to letting it sit full of air.


Washing Machine Waste Discharge Issue Just moved to a new house and plumbed in the washer drier. (Candy Grand Vita)

Seemed fine but it gave me error code E03 which suggests a blockage on the waste.

I took the machine out and disconnected the waste pipe and ran the same cycle with the waste pipe going into the sink and there was no problem.

So I assumed there is a problem with the disposal pipework under the sink, but when I connect to the waste without putting the washing machine back in the space the cycle also competes fine.

When I slide the machine into the space I get the same error.

I've checked to make sure I'm not restricting the pipe in any of way when putting the machine back into the space.

Thanks in advance

OK, confession time...

I changed the waste pipework to a double connection so I could connect the dishwasher and washing machine.

I forgot to take caps off new waste connection sockets!


How can i meet two uneven ends of plaster on ceiling? Remodeling my new home and took a wall out. Plaster was different thickness on different sides of the wall sometimes up to 3/8s. How do I patch it nice and even, is it even possible? Should I drywall and hire a plaster guy to plaster over drywall? What solutions do you recommend? Thank you!

I like cutrightjim's suggestion of replacing the interior portion of the ceiling board. You could completely eliminate the primary problem this way.

Otherwise, 3/8" is nothing to a good taper (or an amateur with patience), as long as you have room to work it out. You do. You'll need a wide knife or trowel, though. 24" minimum.

Fill the void with drywall to the level of the lower plane (higher with respect to the floor). Skim between the planes to pre-fill, and allow this to dry completely. It might take several days. It should be completely white throughout.

Now tape both sides of the channel as normal. Once that's dry, start leveling. Apply compound from the edge of the higher plane outward, as wide as your trowel. Again, let that dry thoroughly. Again, it might take several days.

Continue that process, using the low edge and the contact point of your trowel as screed guides. Finish by skimming the whole area, tapering gradually over 32" or more. Only light sanding should be needed if you've done a good job.


New Generator Help Please All,
I need some thoughts on how to hookup my new generator. I am going to use a interlock on my main eaton 200amp panel and back feed through a outside plugin wired to a breaker for the interloc. I have a new 7000 watt running generator can peak to 8500. It is also 240v and i just need it to supply a full 30 amps. I have a 30amp breaker and a 30amp power inlet box already. This is how my house is wired now.

The pipe is 2" PVC sch 80 and the wires in it are thhn 2-2-2-4 copper to the shed feed by 60amp breaker. Also about 130 cable feet.
Here is where the questions start.

Easiest option is to come out of mail panel to power inlet box up cloae to the house. 10ft from panel. Connect 50-100 foot generator cord and be done. Only questions here are i need to unbond the generator since it is a bonded one. Should be floating netural to connect to house this way right? Also not sure about the 100 foot cord only being 10gauge.

The same as above but varies on where the wire comes out of the main panel. I have one pre punched hole left but is is 2in one but works with adapters but is messy on the extierior of the house. The best way is if i could punch a whole through the back of panel but not sure the rules on that something about bus bars being close.

Last one would be to run new wires in the same pipe that goes to shed to hookup power inlet at shed. Not sure the wire size for distance yet, the fill capacity on the pipe, code about having in same pipe, or the grounding issues. Would you just connect the ground in the existing one since it already has the ground rods installed there or isolated all the way to main panel like if was on extension cord. This way would be nice and clean no extension cords and could run inside shed. That's a different discussion.

I would use your plan 3 with some adjustments
Your plan to use the existing 2" PVC conduit to the shed is the soundest plan out of the three you've put forth.  Running extension cords long distances is just asking for them to get damaged by things, so plan 1 is out.  Furthermore, plan 2 would require you to either field-punch a KO somewhat below where you're describing or use the existing 2" KO, but neither of these are particularly practical places for a conduit to exit based on the outdoor picture shown, with the existing KO being a worse option as it'd force you to route the new conduit over the top of the utility's service duct to get to the shed.
However, there are a few things we need to take into account here.  First off is the factor of conduit fill.  Fortunately, your 2" schedule 80 PVC supplies 742mm² of fill, and you're only using 74.71*3 + 53.16 = 277.29mm² of that so far, which leaves you with ample space for a set of 3 10AWG THHNs for the generator inlet wiring.
With matters of physical space addressed, we then can move onto the next issue, namely ampacity adjustment, as we now have 4 current-carrying conductors in the conduit versus the 3-conductor case Code ampacity tables are based on.  This means that we have to limit the 2AWG THHNs to 80% of the ampacity rating they would otherwise have. However, NEC 310.15(B) lets us base that adjustment on the 90°C rating of THWN-2 wire, vs. having to start with the 75°C rating that we're limited to by the terminating equipment here.  As a result, we can use the 130A 90°C rating of 2AWG THWN-2 as our basis here, taking 80% of that to get us 104A.  Since your shed subpanel is 100A anyway, and 15-30A circuits aren't affected by ampacity adjustment until you get up to 9 current-carrying conductors due to the way ampacity adjustment interacts with the 240.4(D) small conductor rules, we're all good on this front.
The good news is that since we're dealing with a sub-15kW portable generator here, NEC 702.12(B)(2) exempts us from having to provide a disconnect for the generator feeder at the shed:

(B) Portable Generators 15 kW or Less. Where a portable
generator, rated 15 kW or less, is installed using a flanged inlet
or other cord- and plug-type connection, a disconnecting
means shall not be required where ungrounded conductors
serve or pass through a building or structure.

So, you can simply run a 10/3 cable out the back of the generator inlet box and into the shed subpanel, where it connects with the aforementioned 10AWG THHN feeder wires in the house-to-shed conduit.
Once you get the feeder back to the house, though...
The more significant divergence, though, comes when your generator feeder makes it back to the house.  Since your generator was designed to be suitable for portable usage, it bonds its neutral wire to the generator frame.  This is fine and dandy provided it's being used as a standalone source of power; however, it means you can't use it with a normal breaker interlock, as doing so would cause a case of Two Neutral-to-Ground-Bonds Bickering, with potentially deleterious results.
Instead, you need to use a transfer means that switches the neutral, and that limits your options severely.  If you wish to stay in Eaton CH, Eaton thankfully makes switching neutral transfer panels (CH10GEN5030SN), but those are limited to 10 spaces for branch breakers, and are relatively pricey/scarce on the ground.  The alternative would be to use a Reliance Controls Panel/Link X series transfer panel; these are available in 10-space models as well (XRK0503C/D), and support a variety of 1" breakers (QP, MP, HOM, BR) in addition to being a bit less pricey than the Eaton panels, but are also in limited supply due to a recent model/design change.  With either solution, though, you can use the transfer panel to feed a downstream main lug subpanel using either a subfeed block or the transfer panel's own main lugs; this also opens you up to using a panel with fewer spaces of its own, such as the XRH0503D, which might be less expensive than getting the spaces in the transfer panel.
If you want to kit something together yourself instead of buying a premade panel, your options are even more limited: Square-D discontinued most of their switching neutral breakers, BR switching neutrals are too double-stuff-ish to work with interlock kits, Siemens doesn't make 30A switching neutral breakers for their loadcenters to begin with, and GE doesn't make branch-breaker to branch-breaker interlocks for their panels.  While Eaton does make CH switching neutral breakers and an interlock (CHML) that fits them, they don't make a suitable retainer for such a setup as the CHPHD can only be used with the uppermost breaker positions.  You might be able to use a CHPMIKCH cover-mount interlock kit, but I'm not sure how the retainers for those work, either.


Adapter for NTC boiler probe I just bought a replacement NTC probe for my boiler (bought with specific part number) but once the item arrived I noticed the connector wasn't matching. I think this is due to past maintenance when the original probe was probably replaced by a 'compatible' one along with the wire.

Now I want to replace that probe because my boiler does not modulate any more on DHW but it does on space heating. So the first suspected is that (faulty) probe.

Said that, this is a photo of boiler's connector and with new probe on the side. I'm asking if someone could tell me what connector (or adaptor) should I get to install it.

All manufacturers that I know of have a service line.

Your best bet is to contact the original manufactures service line and see what they have to say about it. You may have to purchase a new harness along with your element.


Water coming in below sump pit corrugated pipe! Is this normal? I have water coming in from around the inlet pipe in my sump pit. I dont think i ever noticed it before. I live in Illinois and the house was built in 2001.

Your house is probably surrounded by a drain pipe laid on a bed of gravel to allow water to flow from the ground into the pipe. Gravity drains this pipe to the lowest point, your sump pit. The pit is also filled with gravel to let water perc in from the ground so it can be pumped out and away from the structure.  As long as your pump is able to keep up with the water coming into the pit it sounds like it's working as designed.


Do I need to repair this hole in the bottom flange of my I-joist? The electrician made a hole in the bottom flange of the I-joist. Do you think any repair is necessary? The hole is diagonal from bottom to upper part of the flange and is about 3/4 inch. I read the specs that said do not cut or drill thru but it happened and made me anxious!

Yes some repair is probably needed, contact the supplier for guidance.


Adding a dimmer to a four-way light circuit I am wondering if someone can help me put a dimmer in a 4-way setup.  I will describe from left to right, which controls one light from three locations.
Maestro MACL-153M (Manual Dimmer)
or
TP-Link HS200 (Alexa Dimmer)
The attached image is what I grabbed from each of the boxes.  I can/want to remove the left 3-way.  I want the dimmer to go into the 4-way location.  This way I have a 3-way configuration.

this is how the house is layed out from left to right.  4way, 3way, 3way.  I just want a dimmer at 4way location.

Master dimmer placement is up to your wiring, not your whim
Sadly, for most "smart" hardware (especially fancy stuff that can connect to Alexa etc), the "master" smart-switch or smart-dimmer in a multi-way configuration (such as yours) requires access to always-hot, switched-hot, neutral, and a traveler/remote wire.  This means that your wiring configuration dictates where the master dimmer goes, and in your case, it must go in Box 3, since that's the only place where all the requisite wires are accessible.
That TP-Link can't handle your setup, either, but you don't have to give up on fancy "smarts"
Furthermore, the TP-Link/Kasa HS200 is no good for your application as it can't handle multi-way switching without serious help.  There is no need to despair, though, because there is a way to get what you want, and more, namely the Leviton DW6HD-1BZ.  Not only is it Alexa-compatible, it is capable of not only multi-way switching, but multi-way dimming using matching DW00R-DLZ remotes.
The resulting wiring setup goes as follows:

The white in the /3 "spur" cable gets moved from being nutted with a bunch of black wires to join the existing bundle of white wires in order to provide neutral to the remote dimmers.
Likewise, the black in the /3 "spur" cable gets moved over to join with the existing bundle of black wires to provide always-hot power to the remotes.
The "master" switch gets installed in Box 3, with its white neutral pigtail joining the white wires, its black line-hot pigtail joining the existing bundle of black wires, its red load terminal getting connected to the black wire in the /2 load cable, its red/yellow remote terminal getting connected to the red wire in the /3 spur cable, and its green ground terminal getting connected to the existing grounds.
At box 1, a remote gets fitted, with its black hot terminal connected to the junction of the black wires, its white neutral terminal connected to the junction of the white wires, its red/yellow remote terminal connected to the junction of the red wires, and its green ground connected to the rest of the grounds.
And the other remote gets installed at box 2, wired with its neutral terminal to the white neutral wire, its hot terminal to the black hot wire, its remote terminal to the red remote/traveler wire, and its ground terminal to the existing ground wire(s).

If you decide you don't want smarts after all
If you decide that you don't want Alexa messing with your lights after all, the Lutron Maestro dimmer you picked out will work for your application, using Maestro MA-R, MA-RR, or MSC-AD remotes.  The wiring does work somewhat differently for them, though, as they use a "flow through" wiring for their remotes but do not require neutral to operate.  This permits you to have the master dimmer placed at the box you wish, although with the remotes, it doesn't really matter where the master is.
As a result, we can use the following scheme, with the master dimmer at Box 1 as you desire:

In Box 3, a remote is fitted, with its blue remote terminal connected to the red from the /3 spur cable, its black line terminal connected to the black from the /3 spur cable, its brass load terminal connected to the black from the /2 load cable, and its green ground terminal/wire connected to the ground bundle in the box.
In Box 2, another remote is fitted, with its blue remote terminal connected to the red wire, its black line terminal connected to the white wire, its brass load terminal connected to the red wire, and its green ground terminal/wire connected to the existing ground(s).
And in Box 1, we fit the master dimmer, as you desire, with its blue remote terminal connected to both red wires in the box, its black line terminal connected to the black wire from Box 2, its brass load terminal connected to the black wire from Box 3, and its green ground terminal/wire connected to the existing grounds.

With either set of parts, you can now button the boxes up, turn the breaker back on, configure things as per the manufacturer's instructions, and enjoy your new multi-way dimmer!
Addendum: if you really don't want anything at Box 2
If you want to use the Maestros without anything at Box 2 and with a 3-way switch in Box 3, that's possible too.  You'll want to nut the black wire to the white wire and cap the red wire off in the 14/3 cable at that box, as this will let you wire the master dimmer into Box 1 as described above.  (The reason why I'm not advocating for abandoning the run between Boxes 1 and 2 is to make it easier for someone to put a remote in at Box 1 if they so desired in the future.)
Then, at box 3, the black wire from the /3 spur cable and the black wire from the /2 load cable are nutted to each other and to a jumper (pigtail) going to one of the same color screws on the 3-way switch, while the red remote wire from the /3 spur cable lands on the differently colored screw on the 3-way switch.  (The other same color screw on the 3-way switch is left open; the Maestro, when working with mechanical 3-way switches, uses the switch as a single-pole switch to control the remote wire.)


Smart switch - Confused about current wiring I want to replace my current light switch with a TP Link HS220 (smart switch with dimmer), but I’m confused about current wiring.

I believe top wires go to the light and bottom is the source.

Am I right thinking top wires (black/red/white) are hot/load/neutral and bottom wires (black/white) are hot/load? If so, why is the top neutral pigtail with bottom load? Also, I don’t understand the pigtail and how the black is wired on the switch.

I have no idea when wiring was done, but house was built in 1970. I successfully installed others TP Link HS200 on the same floor.

Is it possible to install the TP Link HS220?

Yes, this can be installed here

It appears that your installer was smart and not only provided neutral at the switchbox, but provided you with a nicely color-coded set of wires to work with, too.  You'll just need a length of black #12 stranded THHN to pigtail the always-hots with, after trimming back and removing the length of always-hot black wire that goes past the screw.  Attach the black stranded THHN to the black screw on the switch, then nut it in with the remaining black wires.  The red wire then lands on the red screw on the smart-switch, and the existing white pigtail from the smart-switch goes to to the bundle of white wires.  Last but not least, a grounding pigtail and screw need to be added to the back of this box, and the existing ground wires removed from the existing (mounting?) screw and nutted to the green grounding pigtails present.  Once all that's done, button the box back up, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy your new smart dimmer!


How do I wire up my ceiling fan? The junction box in the ceiling has three wires: black, white, and bare copper. The ceiling fan has four wires: black, white, blue, and green. I assume the blue goes to the light, but don't know where to connect the blue wire in the junction box.

It sounds like your ceiling fan is controlled by a single wall switch, with fan speed and light being controlled by pull chains on the fan. Therefore, connect both the blue and black from the fan to the black in the ceiling box. Connect white to white, and green to bare copper (ground). The orange wire nuts that typically come with fans are appropriate for all connections.

If your fan doesn't have a light kit, or you decide not to install it, just put a single orange wire nut on the blue wire instead. You'd still connect black to black, white to white, and green to bare copper.


Replacing pool light switches with smart switches... is this correct? I'm trying to replace the switches to my two pool lights with smart switches.  The way it is wired now, the neutral wire bypasses both switches and goes directly to the lights.  The smart switches require a neutral, so I need to reconfigure the wiring a bit.  The switches are located in an outside breaker box that has two double pole breakers (one for the pump and one for the Polaris booster pump), and a single pole breaker connected to a GFI outlet.  The pool lights are wired off of that GFI outlet.  This is how I want to wire it so that the neutral goes to each switch.  Does this look right?

Assuming both your switches and your GFCI have their line terminals on top and load terminals on the bottom, yes, this is correct.  Double-check that that's the case on your actual devices, because while the way you show it is common, I've seen some that are the opposite as well.

Also, you should pigtail the ground to the GFCI -- it doesn't need to run through it, and you're supposed to wire it in such a way that if you remove one device, nothing else loses ground.

Other than that, everything looks fine.


Are there any legitimate concerns about tandem breakers? I recently had an electrician install a new 30 space 60 circuit panel in my house, upgrading from a 20 space since I was running out of space.  I bought a small number of tandems to save some space.
The electricians did a great job, but after the install put in single breakers in place of the few tandems I had bought.  They said they didn't like to install tandems.  I'd also talked to a different electrician who said the same thing.
Now, I don't fault them for doing what they think is safe or best practice.  But I can't seem to find any real evidence that tandems are il-advised, or create problems. It seems to be more like unsubstantiated bias.  Some people say they don't like it because it's "double the heat".  (I can't back this up with any real evidence that double the heat makes any significant difference).  Also, a single 30 amp breaker is allowed in the same space as a tandem 15, which should generate equivalent heat.  Other electricians seem to think they're perfectly safe, otherwise they wouldn't be UL listed, or be banned in the NEC.
Are there any legitimate, backed up with evidence concerns about tandem breakers?

Edit: THIS.  Over-full panels invite problems!
Go look at this situation and the poster's proposed solution.  This person wants to add a subpanel. What they really want is a 125A subpanel, which should be easy.  But they're willing to settle for a 50A subpanel since they feel forced into using a double-stuff breaker, and they're very comfortable using a 30/50 quad; they're mentally married to that solution. But look closer.  Look what breaker will be opposite the 30/50.  Yeah, a 40/40.  So you'll have 160A of load sharing a single bus stab.
And nobody thought anything of this. See how easy that mistake is to make? Notice how a career electrician also missed it - heck, everybody missed it!
A problem like this is extremely rare in a normal panel, because 80A+ breakers are "black swans" - they exist, but you sure know when you're working with one, and so you tend to watch out... and you rarely have two. And they don't sneak up on you.
So that's essentially a UX argument, but that's a real thing in the real world. Armwave all you like about how the world would be if everyone was careful... they aren't.
That's a UX case, but UX cases are why we handle-tie MWBCs, pigtail neutral, use white for always-hot on switch loops, etc. etc.  A huge portion of total NEC code is dedicated to UX factors like that.
They're awesome in 2003 or in a FEMA trailer
Because then, you do not need AFCI or GFCI on anything.
But if you provisioned your panel counting on 2 circuits per space, and you then are required to AFCI or GFCI some of those circuits, you'll be gobbling up spaces at twice your expected rate. AFCI/GFCI don't come in double-stuff form factors.
Other emerging technologies won't fit either
Nobody knows what's coming, but I can think of two right now.

Leviton has a new panel in the marketplace that has integrated power monitoring a-la the Sense home energy monitor.  There is a hub built into the panel and smart breakers in each slot.  If that takes off, all the panel makers will do it.  That kind of thing is usually not offered in double-stuff.

As we get more into alternative power that is non-dispatchable, we will want to get more into the "smart grid" tech where the power company can suspend your water heater temporarily instead of spinning up a fuel generator to power it.  That will be most easily implemented as breakers, and again, not gonna happen in double-stuff.

That last one is already implemented (the brawn part, anyway) in Eaton BRRP or CLRP remote control breakers.  All it needs is the electronics to talk to the grid and command the breaker on/off.  But one brain could control any number of BRRP/CLRP breakers.
You have more trouble with stab limits
Most panels have "stab limits" limiting all the breakers sharing a bus stab to X amps.  Double-stuff breakers cram 4 poles on a stab instead of 2, so they are much more likely to run into stab limit problems.   Recently I saw a 50/30 opposite a 30/30, so 140A on those stabs.  Stab limits were 125A.


Can I infer the amperage rating of an electrical panel from the pump motor rating? Replacing a sewage pump for a building
Existing panel is Challenger Electric J94
Company discontinued so unable to find amperage

I know the Voltage-Motor Horsepower rating information.

What is the amperage of the existing panel?

Looking to replace existing pump with a 3.8 Amp pump.

This looks like a 3-phase contactor or motor controller wired for 240V single-phase (or to be more precise, split-phase).

This is not the service panel, it's not the circuit breaker and it has no bearing on circuit capacity.   To get your answer on ampacity, you need to go look at the service panel where the breaker is.

Jusging by the motor amps you are mentioning, this thing should be more than able to handle the draw of your new motor.


Why has my tub spout diverter not dropping back down after use? (brand new installation) I installed a replacement tub spout with diverter and after about a week, the diverter doesn't always come back down after a shower. At first it dropped down right after a shower. Sometimes it happens hours later and sometimes it doesn't happen at all and when I turn the water on the showerhead immediately sprays water. Did I install the spout incorrectly? I can give more info if I haven't explained enough, but at this point I'm not sure at all what I did wrong.

When the faucets are turned off when you are finished showering the diverter will usually not drop by itself.  The diverter is held up by the column of water in the shower pipe. Once the column of water is reduced due to dripping of the diverter, the diverter stem will fall and reopen the spout to its normal position. How long that takes is dependent on how long it takes for the column of water in the shower pipe to fall. I usually just push down on the diverter actuator pin to release the shower pipe water.


Relocating the PVC from behind dishwasher I want to replace a 12 year old dishwasher with a new KitchenAid model. The hot and cold PVC pipes from under kitchen sink are blocking a full install. These pipes are not flush against the wall or low enough to sit in the recessed space behind dishwasher.

The dishwasher hoses have been connected and the unit is operational.  However, I cannot mount it to the counter since I've lost 4-5 inches of space behind the dishwasher due to these two pipes. A plumber quoted $250 after seeing these photos on line, but not in person. He said I was far from him so he wasn't coming all the way out just to give a quote. Not cool, so I told him I would shop around.

I've made other PVC pipe repairs and feel humbly confident I could reroute these pipes myself in one of two ways after the PVC enters this space using elbow joints:

run PVC lower along floor and drywall
or deeper and flush with the wall

Will a plumber be required or is this a DYI project?

Yeah, a handy DIY person could do the re-routing of those hot and cold water line connections. You would have to deal with shutting off the water supply, cutting out all the old stuff and then re-plumbing in with new piping and fittings. Hopefully you get all the parts that you would need in one initial trip to the big box store. Do be aware as you get ready to re-route the pipes as close to the wall and as low as possible you may be faced with that electrical box back there being in the way.

After all that the quote really does not sound so bad considering the nature of today's prices for things. But it is totally doable if you have the gumption and determination to see it through. It may even be the occasion to acquire some new tools!!


Staining already stained wood I am trying to re-stain a door here. I sanded and applied pre-conditioner. Ofcourse as you can see from the first picture, I had to remove the original stain in some areas. These areas had marks that I needed gone from the wood.
When I apply my first coat of stain though, and then wipe off the excess, I notice that the parts of the door were the original stain was left on, does not seem to absorb any of the new stain. What can I do to change this behavior?

In general, finish coats will not absorb any stain. The finish seals the pores of the wood preventing anything from penetrating.

True stain can only be put on wood that does not have a sealer on it. Where you sanded, you removed the sealing finish coat. That let the stain penetrate and darken the wood more than the surrounding areas.

The only real fix now is to sand off the finish from all of the visible surfaces, pre-condition, stain and refinish. You may have to do a little blending or feathering on the edges of the areas that have already been stained.

The only alternative is to use a poly-stain. This is really just a heavily tinted surface coat rather than a penetrating stain. You would need to make the color much darker to cover the variations you now have. Probably not the best idea.


Do I need to level subfloor with a 1/8" step before installing hardwood flooring? I removed the carpet from the second floor and I noticed that I had termite issues. After replacing the bad plywood subfloor with a new one and I've noticed that it's slightly thicker than the old one. The new one is 3/4" and it's less than 1/4" thicker than the old one, do I need to level it? I'm planning to get hardwood floors nailed down. Also, would the old subfloor, 5/8", be enough for hardwood flooring?

Thank You!

3/4" subfloor is more inline with modern practices, but you do need to level the step, if only to prevent an abrupt visual slope and potential noise. I'd feather out some leveling compound about 24".


News Exterior Transfer Switch Location and Clearance I finally got around to figure out the spot for a new transfer switch which I acquired some time ago, there aren't any choices since the transfer switch needs to be close to the meter. It is a small 5000 watts transfer switch (comes with relatives short wires), and it needs to be installed outside, and the only location outside would be on the same wall (exterior siding) whereon the circuit breaker panel hangs inside (interior of the premises). But then this wall (shown in the pic) is narrow and is sort of cramped and crammed with wires and stuff (socket meter nearby, conduits going up and down). The transfer switch in this case is a metal box hanging up on the wood sidings (the circuit breaker panel is right behind it. But I am not sure if this spot is ok, and what would be the requirement of clearances if any.

The area marked with an 'X' indicates the non-drilling area (breaker box present on the other side). The areas marked with a rectangle shows area passive to be drilled in order for conduit and wire to travel to the other side and enter the circuit breaker panel.

================ ADDENDUM =========== 02/13/2016

I moved the transfer switch box further to the right (complying with the clearance requirements), and used ¾ PVC conduit which then travel sideways few inches from the transfer switch box towards the left and enters the inside of the room by means of a close 90 deg elbow through a bored hole in the siding. Inside the conduit protruding from the bored hole has yet another close 90 elbow which will then with a small section of conduit enter the breaker panel using a knockout on its side. The pics below depict the inside and outside scenarios:

The pic of the outside also shows a ¾ underground pvc conduit along with wires coming from garage subpanel. Originally the pvc conduit protruding from the ground is ¾,  but in order to make it easy to fish the large caliber aluminum wires from the ground conduit to the circuit breaker panel inside I decided to transition to 1" pvc conduit. Initially I simply put an adapter/fitting to transition, but was told that would not be acceptable (it is not clear why though) to simply use an adapter and that I would have to use an electrical box (in this case a L box) to transition. Using a L-Box also meant that I could not use the 45 degrees elbow initially planned to exit the ground, so aesthetically it does not look as intended, but hopefully it is acceptable. Any insight about the this approach or any possible discrepancy would be very welcomed.

I think your location may have more than 1 issue.
Normally the maximum height is 6-1/2’. The door on the transfer switch must be able to be opened to 90 Degrees.
The space in front of the opening usually requires 36”. These requirements are in the NEC 110.26(a)(1), 110.26.2 & 110.26.3.


How to remove this flow restrictor in hansgrohe hand shower? I have a hand shower which has a flow restrictor in it. I've found other flow restrictors easier to remove than this one. The metal tabs seem to bite into the plastic pretty hard (making it probably easy to insert, but hard to remove). There is also nowhere really good to grip with pliers. Any ideas?

To collect the comments into an answer:
Use a small piece of metal to lift/bend each of the metal prongs up so it's no longer pressing into the plastic on the outside, holding the flow restrictor in place. Consider using one or more of the following to do so:

A small dental-type pick*
A small screw driver
A hefty paperclip
A sturdy piece of wire bent into a hook

You might have to push the restrictor slightly down while pulling up on the tab to release the end of the tab from where it's seated into the plastic. Simply pulling up may actually work against you to further embed the tab into the plastic wall.
It appears that there are 6 tabs holding it in place, once you get 3 of them bent, there will likely be enough play to get it out without having to bend the rest of them.
If you're finding it difficult to get the tabs to bend, you may consider leaving the restrictor in place and simply drilling out the plastic center, thus reducing the restriction. If you do this, be sure to thoroughly rinse out nozzle before reinstalling it. You want to be sure to get all the plastic swarf out the large end instead of letting it clog up the shower head.
*A pick like one of these:

Images courtesy of Harbor Freight, where the items depicted are available for under $5 US. No particular recommendation made, though they are a good source of cheap stuff. Neither an employee, owner, nor stock holder, but I'm always thrilled when my purchases last for a 2nd use!


How do you level 1/2" x 6" flooring planks? We have a 1920's house with some 1/2" X 6" planks. Unfortunately the floor is in quite rough shape with finger wide gaps in some spots, I started to attempt to sand and flatten it but I think it will be too much work. That said, would the proper course of action be to put down some 1/2" subflooring (particle board or plywood tongue and groove) first. Screw it down then lay the laminate over top? If not what would be the correct thing to

If your subfloor is only a 1/2 inch thick and partially rotten you need to replace it. Even if it were in perfect condition that's not thick enough for laminate flooring, it will droop and bounce like walking on sponge cake. Cut out your floor boards, true up/replace/sister your floor joists using a site laser or string line and power plane if they need it (and I'd bet you a shiny nickel they do)especially if the joists are under the span load limit, here's a tutorial on span limits:
http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.php
It looks daunting but its not as bad as it looks. If you're still fuzzy just go to your local building center and they can usually calculate loads and spans for you. Once you've got that figured out, sheet with 3/4 t&g cdx. Run a bead of PL on the joists to fill and small voids and bind it all together. Here's a pretty thorough link from a sheeting manufacturer.
http://buildgp.com/wood-products-installation-tips
Hope this helps!


Cables in attic with no power There is one cable with exposed wires. A voltage tester does not detect anything. Another cable goes into a junction box for the doorbell transformer. The cable in the junction box also has no power.

How can I troubleshoot the two cables with no power? All the breakers in the circuit box are on. Do I need a remote continuity tester? Is that safe to use at the circuit box?

Edit: this is the cable running into the junction box. The other cable with exposed wire is not pictured.

I ended up buying a wire tracer and found the cable led to a bathroom switch. After opening the box I found the cable unconnected. I connected it up and now the doorbell works!


Can you ID this stove/cooker? Make is SAUTER, It's white and the cooker operates with gas

The problem

I want to bake pizza.

I don't know what are the different modes for the oven knob (the two knobs on the left are the temperature knob and the 'operation' mode), as all of the writings are erased by now (it's kind of old).

Experimenting with it could be hazardous and time consuming and a users manual could help clear this out.

Pizza means the oven should only generate heat from the bottom and I'm having trouble finding the correct position for the knob :)

What I've tried

Googling for starters, but it's old and hard to find, I've tried playing with the knob, but that did not work well.
I looked behind / inside the bottom shelf and there is no sticker that describes what's the make/model etc

The closest I could find for a manual was here: https://www.manual.guru/brands-6/SAUTER/4-oven/en-english-language.html

My guess, based on the icons shown here:

Clock
Clock Set (Hours and Minutes probably on different collars)
Oven Temperature Set
Grill + Lower Heating Element Set

See also: http://www.which.co.uk/reviews/built-in-ovens/article/oven-symbols-and-controls

Front Left Stovetop Set
Back Left Stovetop Set
Back Right Stovetop Set
Front Right Stovetop Set
Oven Fan
Oven Lamp


Anchor won’t penetrate wall? I was going to hang a few floating shelves from target and they came with plastic anchors that they said to screw into the wall.

Since I don’t have a drill, so I tried that but the anchors stop going in right at the end of the pointy part (very technical, I know) and where the screw begins.

So I googled it and was told to take the outlet cover off to ensure it’s dry wall so I’ve attached that photo, as well as a picture of the anchor and how far it’s gone in.

The wall is right next to a window (wall that faces the outside world) so I’m not sure if that has any bearing. I just want to know if I’m not pressing hard enough or if there’s something in the way? There is a metal plate behind the outlet but I’m not sure if that would go all the way up.

Also, I’m renting and not too keen on making a bunch more holes if I don’t have to so the whole “move the nail to the left and try” doesn’t seem like a great method to me.

I’ve hung other things elsewhere, like picture hanging hooks without problem.

Any help would be much appreciated, and the more simple and clear the better as I’m a beginner 23 year old.  Thanks!

My guess is that you are hitting concrete behind the drywall or you luckily selected a spot with plumbing, electrical or something else running behind it.  It could even be wood behind it, which would be good, as you could screw directly into the wood, but you need to confirm that.

I would take the drywall anchor out and tap in the hole it made to see if it sound like a hard or wood surface.


I am a cleaner. I apparently got water into an external powerpoint I need a bit of advice from an electrician. I am a cleaner and was asked by the client to clean her external windows and get rid of any cobwebs. I washed the windows and hosed as many cobwebs as I could from the external brickwork. Later that night the client phoned me and said that they had no power in part of their home and did I wet any areas that I shouldn't have. I don't remember hosing any power points but I may have as I was concentrating on the large amounts of cobwebs and spiders. The client isn't from Australia so I explained that I may have blown a fuse. She said that they had an electrician out and it was more than just a fuse?? Would I have been responsible for damages more than a blown fuse??? She has guests coming tomorrow, hence the window cleaning, now she says the electrician can't get there until the following week, so her guests now have no power to their bathroom and spa. If it's my fault of course I'm happy to pay but I don't see how I could have caused more than a blown fuse even if I did get water into the point.  Please help as soon as possible. I've got to go back there in the morning.

If you got water into an external power point, it might trip an RCCB (gfci, ground fault circuit interrupter in the US). I would say to look first for external power points near where you washed. Remove the cover plate and  blast the insides with a hair dryer, being careful not to overheat the power point. If the owner has no power at all, they will have to use an extension cord from a power point of the neighbor's house.

I had a roof leak cause a loss of power on one circuit by dampening an external power point on a circuit with a GFCI breaker. Until I could get the roof fixed,                    I removed the receptacle and wired the circuit straight through with twist on wire connectors pointed upward so they shed water.

If an external power point was not properly sealed, it is the home owner's fault not yours. But in future you should not use a strong stream of water to clean around windows. I think people have gone overboard about 'power washing' houses.

If there are no external power points near where you washed, look for power points inside near the windows and dry them with the hair dryer.


wall anchor didn't go all the way in - hit a white plastic? Pretty new with everything about drilling stuff into the wall, so forgive me.
I tried to use a recommended wall anchor (click the link for more info), and unfortunately, about halfway through, the anchor couldn't go any further.
I took the anchor out and saw that it faced some kind of white plastic material(?) behind the drywall.
I assume that this is a plastic pipe where some cable goes through it, not quite sure tho.
Any idea what it is?
Can you please recommend to me what should I do next time to avoid such cases next time (besides the apparent avoid drill vertically above lights/wall plugs).
Will a stub finder (with wire/whatever detector) can alert and assist me?
I am attaching the following pictures so you can better understand my case.
Thank you

The hole is on the top right of the following picture

Is your wall made of cake? That first picture looks like cake.

But seriously, look at the plastic anchor your tried to put in that hole and compare it to another one. I think you will find that the used one is broken. What happened is you screwed that anchor in to a stud, and it broke, leaving plastic behind.

Drywall anchors are used to hang things on drywall without studs behind them. If you need to hang something on a wall where there is a stud, just use a screw in to the stud. The screws that come with the anchors will probably work just fine. Or try installing another anchor an inch to the left or right, if the positioning is not that critical.

To prevent this in the future, you just need a little experience to feel the difference between hitting a stud and not hitting a stud with that type of anchor. Alternatively, use a stud finder to locate the studs first.

Or if you pre-drilled the hole, you just need a bit of experience to feel the difference between drilling in to a stud vs. just the drywall. Also, wood chips coming out of the hole while drilling is a clear sign that you hit a stud.

An appropriate screw for a light object such as your mirror would be a wood screw that penetrates the stud by at least 3/4 of an inch, plus 3/8 or 1/2 an inch for the drywall, plus whatever mounting length you need. 1 1/2 inch wood screws are probably suitable for your project. Depending on the size of the anchor you have, the screws that came with it are probably that length already.


What are these brass spacers on a simple porcelain drawer pull called? I have a few of these vintage, small, round porcelain drawer pulls; see pics below. Some have screws and “spacers” but some don’t. So I’m trying to figure out what those brass “spacers” might officially be called so I can buy some more of them. What the heck might be their official name?
Yes, maybe they are simply called “spacers” but when I try to search for “brass spacers” online I’m simply getting results for hex-shaped spacers that typically are used in PC cases and similar gear. Utterly not what this thing is.
From what I can see they basically act like big washers; they have no threads internally. They simply are used to make the knob stand off a bit from the thing — typically wood with a hole in it — for the same reason washers are used; to provide a protective middle surface.
  [

That item is known as a “knob base stem.”


How do I change a switched outlet to a half-hot outlet? I am trying to change a switched outlet to a half-hot outlet. If you can see the picture, the outlet currently only has a white, black, and ground wire coming to it.

The switch is on the other side of the wall and it would be eextremely difficult and ugly to run another wire to it. (no crawl or attic space). So my question is, can I change the current outlet/wiring within the outlet to make it a half-hot? My understanding is that removing the brass connector will just make half of it dead.

No. It's not possible to do what you want, without running additional wires.


What pump is good for emptying a pool with debris? I have to clean an in-ground pool that has become green with algae due to us being away. I assume there is debris at the bottom, leaves and twigs. What type of pump can safely get the water and small stuff out without getting clogged?
Some people warn me about the danger of pool rising. Is this real? If a pool is to rise from underground water then that danger exists during construction too. How do they avoid it?
How do you assess the danger? Do I need to find out the height of water table?

"Trash pumps" are designed to handle some degree of debris and sludge, but almost any pump will work if you put a proper filter screen on it. The key is to use a large screen bubble so that the pressure on any part of it is low. This prevents it from vacuuming up junk and clogging. Once you get most of the water out you can start to rake up the debris and move the pump to an area with cleaner water.
The water table may have been low when the pool was constructed, but came up later due to rain or changing grade nearby. You could dig a hole nearby to check. Buoyancy force is calculated as the weight of the displaced water minus the weight of the thing being buoyed (in this case, the pool and its contents). Water is quite heavy, so the force can be large enough to lift a nearly empty concrete pool.


How can I block or fill out a letterbox hole in my door? I have a letterbox in my front door that is never used, so I would like to remove it and fill the hole, preferably so it doesn't look like there was ever one there.

Or insert something that fills the hole, like a steel plate or wood block.

Does a solution for this exact problem exist?

I don't think that there'll be something you can buy off the shelf for this.

As it might be tricky to find a block of wood the right depth it could be easier to insert a piece of plywood on the each side of the hole so it fits snugly. Fill the gap around the edge, sand and paint. You may find it easier to make the hole a little larger to create a lip to give the plywood something to sit against. If you make it flush and arrange the grain of the plywood to go the same way as the wood of the door it won't be very noticeable. You can fill the void with some insulation.

If you have a block of wood roughly the right size then use that. Any gaps can be filled with wood glue mixed with sawdust to give a "woody" texture.


How do I remove dried paint from ceramic tiles and the bathtub? The previous owner didn't bother to lay down a dropcloth when painting the bathroom, and there are multiple, small paint stains on the ceramic tile and bathtub.  What is the best way to remove them?

The only thing I can think of is to scrape it off with a razor blade, but I am afraid that it will leave scratches that are uglier than the paint stains.

Edit: Note that the stains are several years old.

A straight razor blade shouldn't cause any trouble on your ceramic tile (assuming it has a smooth finish) or an enameled tub, but a fiberglass tub you're right to worry about.

Depending on the number of stains you're trying to remove you may find that heating the surface a bit by filling the tub with hot water then draining again will weaken their hold on the tub enough that you may be able to remove them with gentle scraping with a putty knife (being careful not to dig into the tub's surface).


Bottom rail of wood panel door falling off I have a 20 year old, wood panel exterior door with a loose bottom rail.  It looks like it's sliding off on one side.  How can I fix it?  If the rail is attached with a tenon I know I can just nail or pin it in place, but do modern wood doors have tenons?  or are the just glued together?

Hard to say whether it's a tenon or a few dowels, but assuming the wood is sound, you can pull the rail into place with a clamp (or a strap if you're low on 8' clamps) and put a couple of 8-10" screws through the stile into the rail. (Plenty of skinny long screws these days.) Predrill with a slightly smaller bit. Do a bit of a counterbore and you'll be able to hide the screw heads with filler.

And if you haven't, paint the top/bottom of the door to seal it.


Partially frozen sewer line I think the line running from my house to the municipal sewer system has partially frozen. It's been below freezing here for weeks on end, with no end in sight. I hadn't noticed any problems until I ran a load of laundry today. After the washing machine drained, I found the bathtub was full of sudsy water that had obviously come from the washing machine. Eventually the water drained out, so I'm assuming the ice plug is only partially blocking the line. Should I try running hot water for a while?

I would start with boiling water - a couple of very large pots.  Dump.  If you get any kickback or notice that your water levels stay high repeat a few times.  If you have ice or a blocked line, really hot water helps both.

Normally you would check your water levels in a cleanout or basement drain - from the sounds of it you have a bathtub at your low point or maybe it is at the same level.  Usually I tell people to have one person look with flashlight on drain.  If you see the water levels rise, even a little temporarily then usually there is some sort of blockage - I know that it may be ice in your case.

If the water isn't backing up into tub move on...

Then I would fill showers/sinks/tubs - anything that holds hot/scalding water and fill them until you run out - except for said tub that got the backwash.  Again good to have another person at tub/drain.  Dump everything at once.  If it starts backwashing to tub then stop.  You have to think just after a few times doing this that ice would be thoroughly melted and then you need to troubleshoot like your main line is clogged.


What could cause the water from melting snow off a roof to be yellow? I noticed today that there is a nice long yellow line of snow below my eaves.  It stretches for several yards, and seems to have been caused by the melt coming from our roof.  Aside from thousands of squirrels having urinated on my roof (doubtful) what could be causing it?

There are lots of things that can cause yellow, discounting flying dogs and squirrel infestations.

Are there a lot of trees around?  Leaves may have collected in your eaves trough, or in other places on your roof, and seeped in enough water to cause discoloration.  It could also be something else on the roof - as Eric mentioned, soot is a possibility, though I don't think that would be yellow.  Are there any mines, paper mills, power plants or other sources of airborne contaminants nearby?


New home with gaps in stairs The stairs in our home being built (production builder) is concerning. The gaps in risers and treads doesn't seem right. When seeing all other homes in same neighborhood under construction they do not have gaps and risers are plywood allowing a butt to be flush. There is carpet going to be installed so the builder is not concerned about gaps. I know it will be covered but years later what problem will this cause when we want hard finished stairs. My other concern is there was no wood glue used at all. Will I be dealing with squeaky stairs in a year? What things can I do myself to ensure no squeaks? Drywall has already been installed so I have no access to underside.

Those look like temporary steps to me. For carpeting you usually see 1-1/8" bullnose particle board treads and 1x8 or 3/4" plywood risers.

Rarely is two-by lumber left as a final product, as it's heavier-duty than necessary and creates very thick and squarish nosings when carpeted. We'd commonly do something like that, or doubled scrap plywood, until after taping and painting is done, then install the final materials using construction adhesive.

Yes, it should be done better, but that's my opinion. It really comes down to your relationship with the builder and your contract. Ask your builder if that's the final state.


How do I get to the wall cavity above a double floor joist from below? I am running some new romex for a couple of electrical outlets. One of the outlets is on one side of a wall in one bedroom and the other outlet is on the other side of the wall in another bedroom. When I went in my crawl space to see what was below the wall cavity, I found two floor joists running right underneath it. Based on my measurements, I'm fairly certain I have no room underneath on either side of the double floor joist to drill up into the cavity. If I were to drill right next to the joists, I'd be going up into my button board rock lath walls.

Do people drill vertically through floor joists? If so and if there are two floor joists together, does one drill the hole in one of the joists or right at the seam between the two? Or do I drill a hole diagonally through one or both? In case it would affect the hole size, I'm using 12-2.

Disclaimer: We bring in outside contractors for our electrical installs, so I can give you some general tips, but I'll defer to others that may know more about this specific problem.

In general, joists, and any lumber supporting a load on its side, will lose much of its carrying capacity when it is drilled or cut on the top or bottom.  For passing through the joists, you should make the hole in the center (between the top and bottom) of the joist, and make it the smallest hole that allows the wire to pass freely.

Having a double joist running beneath a wall means that the wall and joists are designed to be load bearing.  So because of this, unless someone with more structural knowledge says it's ok to drill a hole, I'd avoid it.

While I can't think of a good way to get the wire into the wall, you could install your outlet on an adjacent wall, or you could go for a floor mounted outlet as a last resort:


Replacing old doorbell transformer - wiring This morning I opened up my main breaker box to replace the old doorbell transformer. I thought this would be a straightforward job but didn't account for confusing wiring of the old transformer setup.

The new transformer has the typical black, white and green (ground) wires. The old transformer has two blacks and a green (photos attached).

Even more confusing is the way those old wires are connected. One of the black wires and the green are connected together directly to the main box. The other black wire is connected to other black wires via a wire nut.

How can I know where to plug in my black and white wires? Should I just cap the new ground wire with a wire nut or attach it somewhere in the box? Thanks for your help!

The old transformer has identical wire colors for hot and neutral. The new one differentiates them.
To connect the new transformer, connect the black wire from the new one to the same black wire where your old transformer was connected with the wire nut. Connect both the green and white wires to the same spot where the black and green are connected together from your old transformer.
In your case, this is a main panel, which is why it is acceptable to connect the neutrals and grounds together (though it is not the best way to do it, but you might as well stay consistent with how your panel is wired). This question/answer should give you some more background on this.

Also note that if your new transformer looks similar to the old one, you should put the threaded part where the 120V wires come through through the knockout in the side of the panel, and use a nut to attach it there. The way the old transformer is attached is not how it should be, those wires should not be passing along the side of the panel and through an unprotected knockout like that.