Repairing top of damaged door trim Hi, some fools did pull ups on my door frame and the top section gave way. It won't budge when I try to push it back up (although I didn't put much force into it) , so I was thinking that perhaps the best way to go about repairing it would be to tear it off and use some adhesive (Elmer's wood glue?) to put it back on.

Does that seem to be a reasonable course of action and are there any considerations I should keep in mind beforehand? I haven't really dealt with anything of this sort before so all advice is appreciated.

That is not the "door frame" but rather door trim and specifically it is crown molding. It will be nailed or screwed. Get up on a ladder and examine it from the top. Take pictures of what you see.

You will probably have to remove this element of the trim and reinstall it, but don't be in a hurry to tackle this. You could cause a lot of damage if you don't do it properly. Do it properly and you may not even have much (or any) touch up painting. Do it wrong, and you will make a mess that will require a professional to restore and will cost a pretty penny.

Honestly, a competent trim carpenter should be brought in to fix this. It appears another element has been pulled from the wall, and there is a trim piece missing, or paint missing, from the end of the horizontal trim above the door. It looks like the door trim was not complete. Is this a new house?


How to wire a Woods PRO 59104 Timer I'm running an irrigation pump on 240V circuit I added to my breaker panel, and it's working fine with just a switch between them.  After my first attempt to add the timer between the switch and the panel failed (kept tripping the breaker when I turned the timer to "on"), I'm hoping to get some direction here.
  I have the wiring diagram attached.  It appears to indicate the 2 wires from the breaker go to screws 2 and 4, while there's a jumper between 3 and what I'll call 0, the un-numbered screw.  Then 0 and 1 run down the line to the 2-pole shut-off switch by the pond.  Am I understanding correctly?

You have it backwards

While I can't explain the breaker trips in your setup, the documentation for your timer has the line in going to 0 (with the jumper to 3) and 1, with the load (the wires to the shutoff) connected to 2 and 4.  The way you have it wired won't work anyway, as the motor would be powered through the timer contacts, which would cause the timer to not time 99% of the time.


Water coming in through backdoor threshold Yesterday it rained and noticed water came inside the house from the backdoor. It was wet all around the interior of door. Today, I took out hose and sprayed the threshold underneath door and was able to reproduce the water entry. What can I do to prevent water coming in?

If possible, unscrew and remove the threshold.  Clean it (if your threshold is bent or dented, it will need to be replaced) and the area around and underneath it thoroughly with soap and a bit of water.  Let dry thoroughly, perhaps overnight.  Buy a tube of clear silicone caulk.  One tube is enough.
 Rescrew down the threshold.  If the screws do not tighten down, use thicker screws.  Make sure the threshold doesn't move.  If you cannot remove the threshold, clean it where it is.  Now take the tube of caulk and run a 1/8" bead  around the edge of the threshold inside and out and completely fill the spaces between the threshold and door jambs.  Use as much as necessary to fill all openings around the threshold.  Wet your finger and smooth out the caulk.  Any excess caulk on the threshold can be removed carefully with a wet rag now before it begins to dry, or leave it.  There should be absolutely no openings under or by the sides of the threshold.  Let dry for a full day.  Now do your hose test.  If water is still getting in check the caulked areas.  If all is good, then you will need to purchase a drip-cap door-sweep and attach it to the bottom of your door according to the package's instructions.  There are various configurations, including attaching to outer face of door, or attaching under door and also to the outer face.  Test again.  If there is still water, then there is an opening or issue which I haven't addressed and you'll need to ask for help again.  Good luck!


Inverter Power draw from 12V battery Given a 12V, 100A battery with a 1000w inverter, how many amps would a generic standard european 220V, 500W appliance draw per hour from the battery itself?

I know wattage equals volts times amps, but in this system I'm wondering which of the volts I should use in my calculations. Will it draw 2.27(500/220) Amps or maybe 41(500/12) from the battery itself, or would it use some sort of a different, not so conspicuous formula?

( I'm trying to calculate how many off the grid hours I would get with such a setup, so getting this calculation can allow me to calculate based on real appliances that I plan on using, and maybe switch to a 24V battery/inverter system for thinner wires, but these are just details until I know how the math itself works.)

You've got a few problems/misconceptions.  First there's no such thing as a 100-amp battery; however 100 amp-hour would be typical of a car-battery-sized thing.  An amp-hour is an amp for an hour.
Second, you can't get 100 amp-hours out of a 100Ah lead-acid battery, at least not for very many cycles. That would be 100% depth of discharge, and that is very destructive to lead-acid batteries particularly.  That's something you just have to know about lead-acid; if you use more than about 30% of nameplate capacity, you will be doing damage, shortening battery life and reducing capacity.  That is a downside of lead-acid.  The upside is the price.
If you want a battery that does exactly what it says on the tin, try nickel-iron.
And with a solar setup, you typically want a 3-day battery capacity to bridge you across cloudy/stormy days. It's OK if that dips somewhat into the "don't cycle every day" level, but that means an average day should only dip a lead-acid by 15-20%.

Another thing you'll need to know is that inverters take a significant amount of power simply to be spun up.  (Inverters don't literally spin, but they draw standby power as if they did).

Say you want to power a refrigerator. Very easy load; 2000W startup surge, 100 watt operating (25% of the time) and 0 watts idle. The startup surge is relevant to sizing the inverter, it's not a burden on the battery.  So you get out your sharp pencil and say 100 watts x .20 = 20 watts average, x24 = 480 watt-hours (40 amp-hours) per day.  Easy peasy right?
Hold on. You don't know when the fridge will want to cycle. Let's just armwave that an inverter takes 2% of its max load as vampire loss simply to be spun up. That 2000W inverter therefore takes 40 watts (better inverters take less). Oh, snap. Now we're talking 960 watt-hours, 80 amp-hours per day. Plus the fridge.  So we're now tripling the size of our pack!  Whoops!

Golly. Engineering is hard.  So now you need to be a little more cunning. For instance shift as many loads as possible to low-voltage DC (lights, easy; internet router easy; TV possible with many TVs; so at least you have Netflix.)  For the fridge, they do make 12V fridges, but you could also "hack" the fridge with an extra thermal sensor that spins up the inverter only when the fridge needs it.

Anyway, to get back on to your question, wattage is the unit that remains consistent across various voltages (not counting conversion losses, i.e. that inverter).
Watts = Volts x Amps -- and Watts doesn't change.  So if volts change, amps must too.
That means When you change volts, you must recalculate amps or vice versa.
Your 500W appliance is a 500W appliance at any voltage.   So at 220V it is 2.27A and at 12V it is 41A.
Toss in another 10% everytime you change voltages.  So at 12V, figure on 550W or 46A.

One more big nit to pick. You are running a "generic standard 500W appliance" I know that's an academic number, but academically...
You do not run "generic standard appliances".
You re-evaluate each load, considering carefully the wattage it draws vs. what the most efficient appliances draw.  If you want to keep the inefficient appliance, how much will it cost to provision the extra power?  Compare that to the cost of upgrading.
Say you have an old Westinghouse fridge that draws 300W.  The very best efficient fridges draw 50W. Saves 250W, but costs $600.  Well here's a question for you.  How much will 250W of additional solar/battery capacity cost you?  Is it more than $600? Yes. Yes it is.  Goodbye Westinghouse, grats on your new fridge!
Likewise

A 1-connection washing machine that heats its own water? Nope, you use a 2-connection washing machine and a solar-thermal system, and wash your whites on sunny days.  Or stop wearing white :)
Plain old beige-box gaming PC with an 850W power supply in it? Nosirree, it'll cost $12,000 in additional solar-battery to power that, and that'll pay for a new Mac Pro 3 times over.  So you shop for a PC optimized for energy use and doing what you need, e.g. Mac Mini + external VPU that you only switch on while gaming.
55 watt T5 fluorescent light you already have, vs 44 watt LED light for $50 -- 11 watts saved - except only 10 minutes a day, so 0.07 watt on average.  Not worth the $50, don't upgrade.

Every load gets evaluated like that.


How do I remove wax or Mop-and-Glow from Pergo floors? How do I remove wax or Mop-and-Glow  from Pergo floors?

I won't suggest a brand in particular, but there are commercially available cleaners meant specifically for stripping hardwood/pergo/laminated flooring. A quick Amazon/Google search for 'Floor Polish Remover' brings up many options. It appears that this could be quite the project.

It appears as though some people also use a large rotary floor buffer/polisher to even out/remove any waxy buildup. This could also be a 'Pro Project' or something you could contract out.

Good luck.

(P.S. Whatever the outcome, I'd be interested. I also have hardwood floors that may need to be stripped)


Is there any difference in the protection from a GFCI outlet vs. a secondary outlet connected to it? My house is 20 years old. All the proper locations are GFCI protected, but most do not have a GFCI outlet. They are connected downstream [I think that is the proper term], meaning if there is a short on the downstream outlet, the upstream GFCI trips to shut it down.

I was told by one inspector that you need GFCI outlets at every risky location because they trip ''faster'' than an outlet that is connected to it. Is this true?

"Inspector" is not too swift - I'd be tempted to run this up to the organization that certifies them as a qualified inspector, but I do like to make trouble sometimes.

They don't care at all about a short line to neutral - that's the circuit breaker's job. What they do is compare the current going on the line and the current coming on the neutral, and if they are not matched within 5 mA (number varies with part of world, but for the US) they trip - that happens when there's a fault (often far less than a full on short) to ground.

They work exactly as fast for remote or local connections, as they measure the current, and current changes instantaneously throughout a circuit with changes in load.

Some people even prefer GFCI breakers, which are all the way back at the panel. They work just as well.


Water heater problems after water was shut off I just purchased the house and I did not convert the water utility into my name in time and  it was   shut off. (The water will be off for 4 days as its the weekend).
The water pump on top of the water tank started making noise and was very hot to touch after 1 day without water. The service man came and shut off the tank and pump, there was no water in the tank.
Is it a leak or does water drain back from the tank when the main is off?
Please help, i am so nervous.

Is it a leak or does water drain back from the tank when the main is
off?

If there was no leak before the water was shut off then there is no reason for there to be one as a result of it being shut off. (the pump overheating may(?) have caused problems to plumbing connections)
You will not be able to determine if the pump is still functioning until the water is back on and you can see it pumps water.

Is it a leak or does water drain back from the tank when the main is
off?

In my experience the  municipal water supply pressure  is enough to keep the tank full and will not allow a back flow, but i do not know anything about your particular situation and why you have a pump on your water heater.
You also will need to determine if the water heater itself was damaged from firing up without water in it. (did the service person say anything about that?)


How do I know if my windows are energy efficient? Hope this is a known one. New double glazing should be labelled, shouldn't it? But rather than getting new windows, are my uPVC windows fine? What checks? To elaborate - what should I look at on the windows as a means of checking they are adequately energy efficient so I don't need to buy replacements.

Hire someone that can do an energy audit. Check with your local utilities as they may even offer rebates on the cost of that. They'll use a Thermal Imaging Camera that can answer this question for you.

It's not so much whether or not your windows are a problem as much as it is the bigger question "what parts of your house are the problem". Even if your windows aren't efficient, you may have bigger issues elsewhere that will give you a bigger ROI in terms of energy costs than replacing the windows.


How do you Connect Two Wall Heaters Two 20A breakers and One Thermostat? I have Two 4000w Wall Heaters on Two 20A breakers and One Thermostat.
I actually blew up my new Mysa thermostat trying to upgrade from an old one.
What's the best way to work this problem?

You can't. Good news is, you can use normal 'stats like the Nest

Your system uses line-voltage thermostats where the 'stat itself switches high-amperage 240V.  Generally you can't control 2 separate circuits worth of heaters from one such thermostat, because most 2-pole 'stats only switch one pole thermostatically and the other pole is only turned off at the bottom (hard off) position. Your old thermostat is a 2-pole which switches both poles thermostatically, which makes it unique.  You'll be hard pressed to find another one like it.  No smart thermostats exist which are capable of it.

You must fully separate these 2 circuits, but that is impossible with the readily available stock of thermostats.  Therefore we are left with junking line-voltage control entirely, and going with 24V style 'stats.  The 24V control voltage can freely visit both circuits' heaters without restriction.

In this case you have a 24V transformer feeding the "R" and "C" wires.  A relay on each heater is activated by the "W" and "C" wires.  And a thermostat which uses "R" and "W" to call for heat, and "C" to power itself.   Very standard stuff.   Standard color codes are red for R, white for W, and blue for C.

Heaters usually have extra space for this sort of apparatus.  Each heater gets a relay (unless there's an advantage to putting the relays near the breaker panel), and the transformer can go near a relay.


How wide of an opening for framing cabinets This seems like it's a fairly straight forward question, but I've seen conflicting answers.   I have a U-shaped alcove that I'm going to put in four, 24" cabinets.  It seems like the rough framing should be 97" wide (4x24" + 2 x 0.5" for the drywall).  Does the opening need to be more than that?  Seems like if it were too wide than you'd have unsightly gaps.  Since the alcove is deeper than the cabinets, it seems like you'd be able to smoosh (or cut out) any drywall if the wall varied any less than 97" (well, up to 1" total of play).

People usually assume that framing will be out of plumb and/or not straight, so allow an extra inch or two in the finished opening. That gap gets filled by filler strip that's custom scribed to the opening.


Can municipal authorities get warrant to search suspected building site in U.S.? Hypothetically, let's say you decide to do some indoor renovations but not get a permit and you know the work requires permit (e.g. electrical, framing, etc).  Also, you lower the blinds on all windows, keep the outside of the house intact, and do not accumulate trash, IOW, you are as clandestine as you can be.

Let's say the building police (what I like to call them) drive around or someone tips them (maybe neighbors over noise) that there is suspicious construction going on but, from the outside they can't prove you are doing anything cause you have sealed the inside visually.

In the U.S., is there any way for the building inspectors to obtain a search warrant to forcibly check what is going on inside?

Disclaimer:  This is not me.  I am just wondering about a hypothetical scenario.

Laws and rules vary widely across the country. Most towns or counties have the right to inspect the interiors of dwellings for the purpose of tax assessment, health and safety conditions. Construction inspections fall into all these categories. Insurance companies may require inspections to assess their risk of loss.  The purpose of most govt inspections is to assure that work is done to current standards and does not create a fire or health hazard to the occupants and surrounding properties. In my business, I have seen it all, dangerous wiring, leaky gas lines, sewer gas infiltration, unsafe woodstove and heater installations and substandard structural framing.

If a homewoner refuses to allow any such inspection requested for just cause, they may face fines, loss of insurance, stop work orders, loss/denial of occupancy permit and in extreme cases forced eviction by law enforcement.


Is conduit required for running wiring in an attic? Do I have to put the 120 volt wiring in my attic inside of conduit? I don't recall ever seeing any wiring inside of conduit in an attic but I'm not sure.

No, conduit is NOT required in attics. Not unless conduit is required in your area.

There are other factors involved in wiring in attic spaces, but your question is a bit too vague to go into that.


How does this 1 wire to 2 fixtures & 2 switches work? Is it safe? I am cleaning up my basement and came across an open junction in a closet between 2 adjacent rooms; I will call them "paint room" and "radio room".  I know open junctions are not good so after turning off the power, I was going to disconnect it all and put in a junction box mounted on a stud and hook everything back up. But after taking what must have been half a roll of electrical tape off I am not sure about the entire thing.

There is one 14/2 wire that runs between the light fixture in the radio room and the light fixture in the paint room.  The covering is stripped off this wire at the open junction.  There is a 2nd wire - 12/3  coming in from direction of the main panel.  The 3rd wire (red color, not ground) in this 12/3 is snipped off.  The black wire from the 12/3 goes to the 14/2 black wire in the radio room.  The white wire from the 12/3 goes to the 14/2 black wire in the paint room.  The white wire between the radio and paint rooms (remember it is 1 14/2 wire between the 2 rooms), is not broken, nor is the ground wire, though the ground wire from the 12/3 goes to nowhere.  I thought the white "neutral" wire in the 12/3 had no power??   There are separate wall mounted switches that are wired directly to the light, and not from the panel.  Still don't understand it.

I probably should have left well enough alone..but my question is, is it safe?  Should I even mess with it any further???  Picture attached.

Roberto

It looks like they spliced in a switch loop in the middle of the run. The bottom bunble will end up in a switch that controls the light in one of the rooms.

However the colors are not correctly matched. and the ground to the switch is missing.

The proper way to wire it is first of all in a junction box.

Then the whites (neutrals) should be pigtailed together. So should the grounds.

Then the black should be connected to the power source and red to the light being switched.

At the switch itself you cap of the white, connect the ground to the ground screw and connect the black and red to be switched.


Mixed conduit grounding code I'm running a few outlets to my basement from the main panel on the first floor. Since it is a garage, sealed 3/4" pvc conduit runs through the concrete into the basement. This connects to a metal junction box and 3/4 emt, with metal junction and outlet boxes the rest of the way. There are two 20 amp circuits and one 15 amp circuit for the lights. I know that I can use the emt itself as the ground path as long as it is connected to the main panel. My question is: Would it be code compliant to run one ground wire from the main panel, through the pvc, to the first metal junction box, and then ground all of my outlets to their outlet boxes further down the line? Thanks for the input!
-Matt

Yes, that's fine. It needs to be of adequate size and properly connected. IIRC 12Ga should be adequate if that matches the largest wires you are running power on.


Installing a Remote Control Ceiling Fan with Light & Different Wire Configuration I am replacing an older traditional ceiling fan with black, white, blue and green wires with a new remote control ceiling fan with just black, white and green wires.  The wires coming out of the ceiling are black, white, red and green.  It is connected to a double plate wall switch, one controlling the light and the other controlling the fan (on/off only).  I read quite a few posting stating the fan no longer needs the red wire coming out of the ceiling so cap it and use the remote to control the light. So I am using black to black, white to white and green to green, for grounding.
With this setup, the fan turns on using one of the wall switches but the remote does not control the light or fan speed.  It does nothing.  The other wall switch does nothing too.  Is it possible I need to swap the black wire for the red wire coming out of the ceiling to the black wire to the fan, or it might be a remote control issue? Thanks!

First, check that you have the batteries installed in the correct direction in the remote. Some use both positive buttons up, some down, and some one of each.

Second, check that the remote and fan do not have a channel switch. These are usually mounted horizontally on the fan and are frequently labeled A/B or 1/2. If there is one, the fan and the remote must be set to the same value. It doesn't matter which one, use the one that works best in your home. Make sure the fan is turned off at the wall before changing this setting.

If that doesn't work, remove the lighting assembly and verify that the controls are connected in the space behind it. There are generally three screws around the edge of the plate where the lights attach to the fan. It may be helpful to have a second person safely assisting you. The colors there are generally white, black, and green that match the connections above. Red and/or blue may be used for the control wires in there as well.


Electrical Sub panel unequal legs ElectricalSub panel unequal legs. With all of the sub panel power is equal on both legs right at 1:20 apply power light switch in a small circuit the lights are down voltage one leg drops to 107 second leg goes up to 133

You have a lost neutral. Serious business! Fix immediately!

I don't know whether you've lost a neutral in a multi-wire branch circuit, at the subpanel, at the main panel, or at the pole.  The most common one is "at the pole", which is good news because that's the power company's problem and they'll fix it fast for free. Just report a power outage, which is what it is.

Once I had this happen on a 30A feeder which supplies our cottage.  Checked the other house circuit, nope, it's low too. Then I discovered we were only 1/2 of a 30A MWBC with the next cottage over, who was getting ~150V and was frying appliances.  Suddenly her complaints of frying appliances made sense.  So it's the creaky MWBC to the cottages - nope, it's the ancient FPE master panel.  Nope, it's the meter.  Nope, it's the pole - our entire complex was affected and the neighbor too.  Moral of the story: cast a wide net when searching for this thing. We should have started at the master panel.

What's really happening

Look at my diagrams here that describe how split-phase works.  What  you have going on is this:

Notice how the 240V loads don't care, but the 120V loads are now out of balance.  That's what is happening, and it's changing as loads are turned on and off.  The two 120V legs will add up to 240V, but  they won't be 120V.


"Clip" projector directly to ceiling without "arm-mount" I would like to install a projector to my living room ceiling. As the ceiling is relatively low, however, I'd like 1) to have the projector "standing" there upside down (in contrast to a mount that takes up another 20cm or so of room height). I held it there and the projection is pretty perfect this way. Heat and air circulation are not an issue. Also, 2) I'd like to use some sort of clip system to slide the projector into and out of if I don't use it. There have to be be some sort of metal plates that can be screwed onto projector and ceiling which fit snugly into each other... some help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Just use thumbscrews to attach the projector to a low profile mount, like this one. This approach allows you to maintain the positioning settings of the mount and have the projector free of mounting hardware when you detach it for use elsewhere.

Alternatively, build a small wooden box or shelf and set the projector on it when you want to use it. If you use a shelf like the one pictured below, you can use hooks instead of eye bolts for mounting so that most of the shelf can be taken down when not in use.


How can I access the water in my pipes during a supply outage? I am trying to think about how many times I could flush a toilet in my house if I have to shut off the water to do a DIY project or if some disaster disrupts our water service.

Since atmospheric pressure can push water up to a height of 10 meters (33 feet) and my house is not that tall, it seems that the atmospheric pressure would push the water up and prevent me from using most of it.  I think typically the only water in the system I could use would be the water that gets displaced with air bubbles going into a faucet or pipe as I draw water from it, and that only works for a body of water that is in contact with some air and is above that air, so the shape of your pipes determines how much water you can draw with that method.

To allow for more toilet flushes while the water is off, would it be possible to "shotgun" the plumbing system in the house, just like people shotgun beers?  I am thinking I would turn on the highest component of the system (e.g. a shower on the 2nd story) in order to let air flow into the top of the system.  Then I should be able to use a lot of the water from the pipes in order to flush toilets on the ground floor.

Would this plan work?  Could it damage my plumbing?

You are correct that you should be able to get a dribble of water out of your pipes this way. But you are probably overestimating the usefulness; my guess is you have less than a gallon in your entire household plumbing. (Of course it depends on your home and you can do your own estimation based on pipe size and total length.) One toilet flush uses about 1.5 gallons (or more, depending on the design).

If you want to have access to water in an emergency I would suggest storing some yourself. You can buy large water jugs at most supermarkets. You can refill a toilet tank yourself by just pouring water into the tank until the float lifts up. And/or if you are expecting a service outage you can fill a bathtub with water.


need help installing bathroom solid surface countertop that does not sit flush on vanity I bought a new bathroom countertop that is a solid surface.  It's called a "stonetek solid surface".  The bottom surface of the vanity top has all sorts of groves in it.  So I don't know how to attach the top to the vanity because there is nothing to screw to, or put adhesive on.  Any help you can provide would be really appreciated!
Thanks, Jeannie

In my limited experience, the top is commonly adhered with either silicone caulk, or hot glue, neither of which care much about grooves (they will fill them where they happen to meet the glueline.)

Typically make some sort of witness marks as you where you want the top, remove it, glue or caulk on the top of the vanity, set the top in place following the witness marks, let it cool or cure depending which type of adhesive was used.


Does a grounding wire from a breaker panel to an outside grounding rod need to be in conduit? I've got a breaker panel in my detached garage (it is not a sub-panel, but is a primary forked off just past the meter).  The panel seems to be wired correctly- the neutral and ground bars are tied together, and a (6ga?) ground wire was run through a hole in the wall about 6" below the panel, down through some conduit outside, and is attached to a grounding rod.  However, between where it leaves the panel and passes through the wall to the outdoor conduit, it is just bare wire.  I am in the process of insulating the garage, and putting up drywall, and this didn't seem right.  Thoughts?

Just to clarify- the wire IS in conduit outside, but for the 6" or so it runs inside the walls, it is just bare wire.

Exposed ground wires are normal. In the last year I've seen a main panel and 2 subpanels approved with exposed ground wires. They were 6ga stranded.


What is the most effective way to remove epoxy plumbing putty? At some point in the past, I used epoxy plumbing putty to seal a joint going into the faucet on my bathtub. It's now leaking again (seeping out past the putty) and I'd like to get the putty off so that I can effect a better repair.

Any good ideas? I'm thinking I may just have to chisel it off, but I'd like to not damage the faucet in the process.

Epoxy hardens and adheres by undergoing an irreversable chemical reaction.  You won't be able to dissolve it off with anything.  You will need to cut and grind it off with a dremel tool and/or saw.

EDIT: If you used it on a metal pipe, you may have luck burning it off with a blowtorch.


3-prong to 4-prong conversion - EXTRA MISLABELLED WIRES - Dryer cable upgrade and installation Samsung dryer, model DV422EWHDWR/AA

My Dryer has a 3-prong cable, I need to upgrade to 4-prong.

I have TWO GREEN wires here, which is something I cannot find mentioned anywhere else.  I reckon that one of these corresponds to the usual solid metal tab connecting the terminal assembly to the dryer’s metal body, and the other corresponds to the (usually white) connection that “pseudo-grounds” from the neutral connection, but I‘m uncertain, don’t want to die, and don’t want to destroy the dryer or the house.

I think I’m supposed to remove the smaller green wire, and connect both the white and the thicker green wire to the center connection on the terminal assembly.

Can anyone offer me wisdom in this matter?  If this question is a duplicate, I cannot find any similar question especially regarding the ostensibly mislabelled and extra green wires.

(The image descriptions didn’t appear in the post like I thought - the first image is a picture of how the dryer cable was arranged before I did anything, the second image is of my preliminary tinkering, now I believe that thick green wire should connect to the center terminal with the white cable.)

No, No, No! In this day and age you never hook green (ground) wires to white (neutral) wires. That's why you're going to a 4 prong from a 3 prong... so you can separate them. You need to determine where those green wires are hooked up that appear to go behind the terminal block to make sure they are not jumped to the neutral, white wire. If they are, disconnect them and just remove them completely as they are not needed because of the new ground wire in the plug.


What type of connector, adapter or tubing do I need to connect the fridge to the water line? I need to know what type of connector, adapter or tubing I need to connect the fridge to the water line with this type of valve: white plastic with a blue shut off valve:

(Source: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00PFTFV8W?pc_redir=T1)

You'll want something like this Pex 25-Foot Ice Maker Connector, which uses 1/4" compression fittings at each end.

Except you won't use the compression nut, instead you'll just push the end of the tube into the push connector on the valve.


Contractor suggests caulking cracks in chimney, is that the right solution? The mortar in our 25-year-old chimney is starting to crack and now leaks into our home if it rains hard.

I assume we're probably in need of repointing, but a contractor that has done roof work for us before says that caulking in some silicon into those cracks will do the trick.

Is that an acceptable solution? Or will we just be dealing with this again in 6 months?

Want to make sure they're not just trying to make a quick buck.

This is the same question you asked a couple of days ago. BTW, NEVER use silicone caulk on chimney masonry cracks, especially if the crack passes through. There are special masonry high temp caulks for this purpose. In your case where water is passing completely through the brick joints, you really need to have it repointed.  Any competent contractor would not suggest silicone in this case. Find a new contractor.


Wiring smokes in series: one smoke beeps a lot We wired three smokes. However, every so often (but always in the middle of the night) one of them starts beeping. I suspect that it is not actually being powered by electricity, but off the battery.

I wired them so that smoke A goes to a junction box. Then from the junction box to smoke B and from the junction box to smoke C. (All via attic access) Does this mean that they are not really in series and therefore explains why smoke B misbehaves?

(Or perhaps my wires are just loose and I need to check the wiring in the box, which I am going to do right now).
Thx, Catherine

A loose/disconnected neutral will cause a hardwired smoke alarm to go off.


New Electric range trips GFCI when plugged in - 4 wire, bonding strap removed I had an electrician install a 220v 40 amp circuit for a new electric range (Avanti DER20P3S) in the basement. The circuit is for a 4 wire (grounded) plug. I have wired the 4 wire plug to the range and removed the bonding strap from neutral to ground. The problem is, the breaker trips immediately when the range is plugged in, due to a ground fault. I have measured continuity with an Ohm Meter from neutral (white) to chassis ground on the range, and there is continuity measuring zero ohms AND the ground strap from Neutral to Chassis has been removed. Is this normal? Is the range incompatible with the GFCI? Keep in mind, the range works normally with a 3 wire connection with the bonding strap installed, as the GFCI can't detect the ground-fault to neutral. Is this an acceptable solution? Note the electrician said a GFCI is code for a basement 220v breaker. Thanks!!

TL;DR Neutral Not Used, but you may have an actual GROUND FAULT
Most cooktops/ovens/ranges made for use in the USA are combination 120V/240V devices. They typically use 240V for heating (more power!) and 120V for lights/controls/clock. However, there really is no need for 120V - it is a convenience and small (these days, very small) cost savings for the manufacturer, since they can use lights/controls/clocks designed for 120V. Modern lighting (especially LED) can run just as well using 240V supply as 120V. Modern controls are miniature computers, and just like most consumer computers can now handle a range from 100V to 250V, so can the electronics for ovens.
The catch, which seems to have confused Avanti, is that in the USA neutral and ground are almost the same. They are bonded in the main panel and have the same voltage (nominal 120V) relative to each hot wire. Plus, for historical reasons, there are receptacles/wiring methods that combine neutral and ground, even though that is not allowed any more on new circuits (new construction or new/changed installations in existing buildings).
They didn't know what to do about this. They needed to provide a ground - that is a key safety requirement. They thought they needed to use neutral, since every receptacle they connect to in the USA will have a neutral connection. And in some, grandfathered, cases, that neutral and ground will be one and the same.
However, in a new installation, ground and neutral are separate. More importantly, the newest installations now have a GFCI, which will detect an imbalance between the hots & neutral. With a GFCI, if any power comes in on a hot wire and goes out somewhere other than the other hot wire or neutral, the GFCI will trip. The place (except if the power is going through you, which is the real purpose of the GFCI) for that power to go is, naturally, ground.
The first step is to disconnect neutral. The diagram makes it clear that the only place neutral goes is to ground. Which means that if you leave neutral connected to the circuit, neutral and ground are bonded. That is not supposed to be the case. Since neutral is not actually used, the solution to that is to not use neutral - do not connect the neutral wire to the plug. That should have no effect on operation of the range, if everything else is done properly - i.e., the lights/controls/clock will still work since they are powered by 240V and not 120V.
Once that is done, if the GFCI still trips then there is indeed power leaking from one (or both) of the hot wires to ground. Otherwise known as a ground fault. Which is dangerous. Which is a manufacturing defect/warranty repair situation.
Now here is the complicating problem: The instructions clearly state that neutral is to be connected. So not connecting neutral would be OK for testing but not for actual permanent usage, as it violates the manufacturer's instructions, unless you can get the manufacturer to certify that it is OK (e.g., a letter from the engineering department). Which only leaves one other thing to consider, if you have not done so already: the "ground strap". The instructions state not just to unscrew it (which is typical) but to cut the ground strap:

Remove the ground strap from the frame of range and terminal by removing its screw and cutting is as shown.

If you have not done this, doing so may solve the problem. If you have already done so, then it sounds like there truly is a ground fault.
Note that the wiring diagram seems to indicate "Neutral to ground" as part of the normal installation and not as a removable ground strap. But it could be that the diagram is wrong.


M24 and 15/16” aerators aren’t fitting M24 and 15/16” aerators aren’t fitting

When we purchased our home, the bathtub’s faucet in the master bath no longer had the male aerator attached. I measured the diameter of the opening and found it was about an inch. So I assumed the 15/16” adapter would work. It seemed like it would fit, but it wouldn’t stay. So I tried an M24 aerator and that definitely fit and stayed, but falls out at the slightest touch or whenever you start the water. My tub has no markings of the actual manufacturer, so I’m grasping at straws at this point.

Could it be a M28? If so, where would I find that type of part... I’m struggling to find one online. Or could it be that the M24 should work but maybe the threading isn’t matching up with the female component? If so, how would I solve for that?

Any help would be appreciated.

The threading on the faucet looks ok. Amazon has 28mm aerators. I wish I could tell you an easy way to get what you need but at this point it's trial and error. I once bought three different sizes to try and match one to a faucet. Luckily, I got one right and was able to return the rest. Good luck.*


New kitchen, new home runs for appliances...lights flicker, what could be the cause? We have a newly renovated kitchen. All the appliances are on their own breaker (according to code).  We also have recessed lights installed which I believe may be using the old wiring.

One day we had many appliances going and the lights flickered once really quickly.  It seemed almost as if the power was going to go out...that kind of flicker.

We didn't think much of it. It happened again after 5 - 10 minutes.  My wife thinks it's because she turned on our new exhaust hood to max.

We haven't been able to replicate issue.

What could have been the cause? Is there a way to test for the cause/issue?

update 1/30
We have a 200A panel.
We have a gas range & a gas tankless. We have a washer and gas dryer. All on separate circuits.

Put a peak load on the circuit and measure the voltage. If the voltage droops more than the permitted droop of 5% (that's 6 volts on 120V) -- less is preferable for incandescent lights and motors -- then you definitely have excessive resistance in the circuit wiring.

And then have to check that the wires are properly rated for the load and the length of run and also have to inspect every junction box on that circuit and check each connection -- clean the wires, replace the connection device (wire nut, etc.), and retighten them preferably with a torque driver.


Any issues wiring bathroom exhaust fan to low-voltage heated mirror? I'm in Maryland, US.
I was hoping to wire from the switch:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CXXZV96/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to this:
https://www.clearmirror.com/product-page/shower-clearmirror
I would like my shower heated mirror to come on when I turn on the exhaust fan. Some other models of the exhaust fan recommend not wiring up other devices. But I'm hoping it's possible because A) the same recommendation is not mentioned in this model and B) the heated mirror is low voltage.
Is there any problems with this?
EDIT: now it seems like the main issue will be pluging in the mirror transformer to code. Is it against code to put an access panel to access an outlet either in the ceiling or in a wall?  This is how they seem to be doing it in their video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdqB57r1Y0k
Planned steps:

wire existing 12/2 romex to exhaust fan (original leg to old exhaust fan) via pig tails and secure in recessed junction box secured to ceiling joist
connect 12/2 romex from this junction box to outlet which will be b̶e̶h̶i̶n̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶d̶r̶y̶w̶a̶l̶l̶  (see edit above)
secure plug-in power supply from heated mirror into this outlet

If there are any issues, NEC considerations, or any other relevant information, any information would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

You can have a removable access panel to mount the transformer in the wall if it is rated for being enclosed. Some transformers are not listed for being enclosed. Most transformers similar to this are mounted on a junction box with the 120v inside and the low voltage on the outside in this case a full wave bridge may be integrated in the transformer or connected to it and the 24vdc is taken to the mirror for the heat and light.
I make “picture frame” access panels I have always used Velcro to hold them in place. An inspector did recommend screws as they are allowed. Removable panels designed for access that do not damage the finish are code compliant.  So if the transformer is allowed in a stud bay you could create a “picture frame” attached to the Sheetrock but the frame covers the seam. Velcro or screws can be used to hold this in place.


Yet another question about replacing a 15 amp breaker with a 20 - 12ga wire long time listener, first time caller.

I've got a 65 year old home that was wired in a way that makes no sense. 10 recepts on one circuit, 2 recepts on another, weird stuff.

There is no 14 gauge wire in the entire house, all 12/2, yet all 120 is on 15 amp breakers. For the first 64 years was fine, but I recently put a little home office in the basement, which meant an extra desktop pc, tv, and mini fridge. Now when they are running and the dehumidifier plugged in at other end of the basement kicks on, it throws. Also, I did add 2 recepts in my little office area, as the original ones were over 25ft apart (which doesn't sound legal even in the 60s).

I believe since all wire is 12 gauge I can replace the 15 with a 20 with no problems, is that correct? I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something.

Also, before it's said - I know I should just add a new one, but the panel box is completely full. I already have everything tied up nicely and don't really don't want to get into replacing the box or adding one or even figuring out the wiring nightmare running into it just for this very small issue. If this doesn't solve the problem I'll suck it up and invest some time and money, but this house is temporary so I'm trying to half ass what I can.

That situation is beyond belief.  To put a 15A breaker on one 12AWG circuit is one thing.  To do it for all of them, doesn't make sense, nobody does that.  Occam's Razor says the likeliest explanation is you have aluminum or copper-clad-aluminum wire.  Look at the cable jacket markings and get back with us.

Putting 10 receptacles on 1 circuit and 2 on another makes perfect sense if it's appropriate for the loads.  10 might be bedrooms, 2 could be kitchen, bathroom or y'know, a home office. At the end of the day, you know what your loads are and feel free to rearrange.

The home office and dehumidifier on the same circuit... That is simply a case of someone overloading a circuit. Who did that... The cat?  Upsizing breakers won't save you from overloading circuits if you're not conscious about what loads you are asking a circuit to bear.  It's worth your time to identify which receptacles are on that circuit, total up the nameplate rating of their loads, and make sure the number is sane.  And if necessary rearrange some circuits.  Perhaps the dehumidifier receptacle can be moved to another circuit.

Panel being full is not a disaster, and it doesn't require the panel be replaced.  It is not that hard to fit a subpanel right next to the main panel, and move circuits there, especially if that area of the basement is unimproved.  My suggestion is take the lesson and get a huge subpanel, 42 spaces is not excessive.

Partly because you need full spaces for AFCI breakers, which are the quickest and easiest cure for aluminum wiring's various worries.


How to stiffen flexible plywood We have a curved wall framed with steel studs 16"o.c. that will be finished with hardwood planks (running vertically on the wall).

For the hardwoods substrate, they recommended plywood and normal plywood does not conform to the curve.  Our lumber supplier suggested snakeply (wiggle wood, a.k.a flexible plywood) which conforms to the wall easily, but it is still very soft in between the studs.

Is there a way to stiffen up the snakeply?

Laminating a second layer of the same product should stiffen it substantially. Once the first layer is positioned the way you want, spread several beads of construction adhesive across the face of it and conform a second layer over the first. Tack in place with brads using a nailgun to hold it in place until the adhesive sets.

Note: These flexible plywoods come in a variety of thicknesses. It is likely that the thicker ones will be somewhat stiffer than the thin ones. I realize that even the thick ones may not be rigid enough for your application.


GE Profile Cooktop and element replacement I have a GE Profile Cooktop model PP945. The right rear heating element is out. The right rear element is the small 1200W unit. I disassembled the unit and found the heating coil burned out (discolorization around the 10:00 position).

The unit has been in service for about 7 years. This is the first problem. The right rear element is used less frequently and has the fewest duty cycles. The other elements are used more frequently.

I don't know the cause of the failure. I'm not sure if I should replace the element alone, or the element and the sensor. Or maybe something else. (I believe the sensor is the bar running horizontally in the image).

What is the recommended course of action for this repair?

My course of action would be to replace the burner. It's only $59.28 at partselect.com. You've already done the hard part, which it removing the bad burner. Reassembling it will be faster.


Why is my main water supply shut off valve leaking even while closed? While prepping to install a new kitchen faucet, I went to shut off the water supply to the house since there were no valves under the sink. I mistakenly chose to turn the city-side (gate valve) supply off instead of the home-side (ball valve). When I started turning, water began leaking from the stem. Doing a quick google of this let me know that I needed to tighten the packing nut. Never having done this before, I started tightening the wrong thing, which caused THAT to start leaking as well.

This 'wrong thing' is a second opening at the bottom of the valve. It's supposed to be closed off with a cap that just screws onto the thread. Tightening it caused it to leak. At this point I called a plumber and he said I could take care of this myself and told me  the packing nut was my problem and how to tighten it. He called this other thing at the bottom a petcock. After getting off the phone, I followed his instructions and was able to get the valve stem to stop leaking and get the water turned off.

The 'petcock' is still leaking even with the valve closed all the way. If I try opening the home-side valve, water jets out of the petcock. The same thing happens if I try opening the city-side valve that I successfully got closed. I tried tightening the petcock cap more and ended up breaking it. It wasn't doing anything to stop water leaking anyway.

What the hell is going on here? It looks like I'm going to have to deal with this small leak until the morning when I can call a plumber. The city will likely have to come shut the water off as well.

Can anyone help me out with this in the meantime?

I think what is leaking is the drain. Does it look like the object sticking out to the side in the below picture?  If so, this is used to drain water from the house side of the supply when the valve is off.

It sounds like you over tightened it in the first place which started the leaking.  If you've broken only the cap, you might be able to find a replacement.  If the stem and threads are damaged, long-term you will need to replace the entire valve.  As a short-term fix, you just need to block it some how.  Marine epoxy is handy for emergency plumbing repairs.


GFCI Install with 2 circuits This is for a U.S. based house built in 1990.

I have an outlet receptacle running on 20 Amp 12 Gauge wire. I want to replace it with a GFCI outlet.

The problem is that 2 circuits are running through this outlet. You will notice in the diagram below, that all of the Whites (Neutral) are capped off with each other and connect to the outlet once, while two hots come off the outlet.

The wiring in the upper right corner is the source of power for the normal circuit.

If I take the Black and White from that circuit and hook those into the Line screws of the GFCI, the GFCI works and tests out perfectly, but the rest of the chain (Load) is not connected.

What needs to happen with the white wires to make this work?

Don't use the words "line" and "load" for plain receptacles.

What's happening here

If indeed the power is coming from the upper right... This is a multi-wire branch circuit that appears to irrevocably split here.  It shares neutral up to this point, then it does not.

Because it is an MWBC, the neutrals are pigtailed.  That is correct and important.   However it is not necessary after the MWBC hots split for good, so the upper left cable did not need to be pigtailed, it could have chained off the receptacle same as its "hot" does.

The lower right cable is the "red" leg of the MWBC.   It departs and we don't deal with it again here.

The receptacle is the "black" leg of the MWBC.

How to hook up a GFCI

It goes without saying that you de-energize both sides of the MWBC before doing anything with wires.  This will involve many trips to the breaker panel.   Most likely the breakers are adjacent, possibly with a handle tie, or are a 2-space 2-pole breaker.

First, disconnect and fold back both hot and neutral from the upper left cable.  We will not be using them at all. (yet.)   You might, at this point, go see which receptacles are downstream and now dead.   Make a note of those.

The lower right cable stays exactly as it is.

At this point there will be 1 hot and 1 neutral going to the receptacle, and the receptacle should work.

Replace the receptacle with a GFCI type.   The hot and neutral go to the LINE terminals.   The LOAD terminals are unused.

At this point the GFCI should work fully.  Plugging anything into any receptacle in either this or the other half of the MWBC should not trip the GFCI at all.   A GFCI test on the other half of the MWBC should not trip this GFCI.

Lastly, go back and grab the upper left cable I said we weren't going to use.  Connect these to the LOAD terminals on the GFCI.   At this point all the downstream receptacles should be back up.    Now go test the downstream receptacles with a GFCI tester.   All should trip the GFCI.   Other than that, if you are now getting nuisance GFCI trips, it means one of the appliances downstream (or the wiring) has a ground fault (that is, after all, what you are paying this gadget to detect).


No hot water even if heating elements work (solar/boiler combination) I've got following setup for heating water:

boiler
solar panel on the roof

The overall setup is simple - the cold water enters the system and goes first through the solar panel and then through the boiler reservoir.

Then, as a last piece there is a hot-water recirculation pump (Wilo Star Z25/2) that creates a circuit in between the cold water supply and hot water out.

However, I do not get any hot water out of the taps, despite the boiler working and pipe leaving out of it being hot.

After very long figuring-out and trying to feel where the hot water goes by feeling all the pipework, it seems like if the water was going through pump in the other direction! There also seems to be a check/no return valve installed on the intake side of the pump.

I am very sorry for the rough description - I do not have access to the plans so I've "reverse engineered" the above.

My total uneducated guess is that the shut-off valve is faulty and allows the cold water back into the circulation.

Also, the pump seems to be broken as well (I believe it has been for a while) - what happens when it breaks? Does it normally allow flow through in the other direction even if not broken?

EDIT:

I've drafted the schema of the system:

If the hot water is hooked up to your faucets, then hot water should eventually come out regardless of the re-circulation stuff. That is, unless the check valve is the wrong way or the pump isn't letting water flow. Then you would just get cold water.

EDIT
I see from your comment that the system was previously working and no work has been done. The check valve must be installed in the correct direction. I don't know your entire system, so, it's difficult to know what's wrong. It seems like there would need to be a check valve between the hot and cold line at last faucet in the plumbing run. Then water from the cold side wouldn't be allowed to come out the hot side in case of a restriction in the hot side.

EDIT 2
Thanks for the drawing. I thought you had a recirc pump so that hot water was always instantly available at the outlets. I think the check valve would be better placed on the output of the pump, but I don't think that's why it stopped working. Although I don't know the likelihood, the problem could be a failed check valve. I don't see how else you could get cold water bypassing the heaters after previously working.


How to repair towel rack that was anchored in drywall I live in an apartment and my towel rack was ripped out of the wall. I put some weight on it, and one of the sides came out. I looked into the hole and found that it was anchored into the drywall, so maybe it wasn't very secure in the first place. I would like to learn how to fix this on my own instead of having my apartment management fix it, but I'm not sure where to learn how to do this. I would not like to take the other anchored side out that the pole was attached into as that side is still anchored and at a location I like. Is there a way I can re-anchor and reattach this?

I would use a jab saw to enlarge the hole. Then use a rod of wood and place it behind the spot your towel rack will eventually sit. (Make sure the piece of wood is longer than the towel rack bracket). Screw through the drywall above where the towel rack bracket will sit and below it. This will anchor the wood to the back of the wall while you patch the hole. Once that is done you can patch the hole with a pathig kit (ex.  https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Doctor-Drywall-Patch-2)

Once you have let that set and cure you can remount your towel rack bracket. U can remove the extra screws and patch those holes over with a little spackling.


Puzzling electrical problem with 9 wires in junction box )

Hi everyone,

I've spent the last few hours trying to figure out why my light fixture wouldn't turn on and I finally threw in the towel. So I just bought a home that has 2 adjoining light fixtures that are controlled by a switch. Thinking that it was the switch that was causing an open circuit, I replaced it but the lights still would not turn on. I've tried everything from using new bulbs to testing the sockets with a voltage tester. There is a voltage detected, but no light. Could the circuit be incorrect? I've never seen a 9 wire junction box before, only 3, with one hot, one neutral and one ground. Any advice on this would be appreciated.

Assuming that box is wired correctly and to code, it looks like this would be true:

The lower right is the cable from the service (always energized).  Its black is always-hot and its white is always-neutral.  (all the neutrals are always-neutral; this setup properly switches the hot.)

The upper cable is the switch loop.  The black wire is always-hot.  Switched-hot comes back on the white wire, and that wire should be wrapped with some electrical tape to designate it as a hot.   Historically that marking wasn't mandatory if the application was obvious; do you think it is obvious?

The black wire to the light fixture is switched-hot.   The white wire to the lamp is neutral.

The lower left is the cable to the other light fixture. It is the same: black is switched-hot, white is neutral.

Equipment safety ground is all tied together, of course.


Shower head arm rusted through My showerhead arm is rusted through and water is leaking out everywhere. The tube and its thread is through a concrete wall. I have no idea how to repair. I know I'll have to break through the concrete, but not sure if doing so well break the water tube beneath.

Any recommendations before I have to call a plumber?

Update:

I decided to cut through the cement around with a cold chisel to free from the cement a bit.

You probably can fix this without having to damage the wall. This is a common problem, and there are inexpensive tools designed to remove any pieces of the shower arm left inside the wall in the fitting.

You might be able to borrow one, but similar tools can be bought for less than US$10. Check your local hardware store or plumbing supply store.

Unscrew the shower head. A piece of rubberized shelf liner or jar gripper is useful to protect your hand and provide a high-friction grip on the fitting, but pliers can be used, at the risk of damaging the shower head.
Using the rubber gripper, again, turn the shower arm counter-clockwise to remove it. It may break off, or pieces of the thread may remain in the female fitting, and this is where the internal pipe extractor is useful. Be gentle, since you do not want to damage the fitting in the wall.
Replacement shower arms are no more expensive than the extractor, and are common hardware-store items. Measure the depth of the hole, and bring in fragments of the shower arm to get the correct size part. A good brass fitting should last many years.

BTW, I've removed pieces of a brass fitting with just a flat screwdriver, inserted at an angle -- but the old fitting was in much better shape than that in the photo.


Meaning of socket connector labelled 'A' I have disassembled a (single phase) mains outlet and found the usual L, N and ground cable connectors but to my surprise there is also a 4th connector labelled 'A':

Green/Yellow is ground, blue is neutral, black is live, but what is orange? Symbol above 'A' looks like some kind of a switch or breaker.
Front looks like this (Switzerland type J):
Going by the numbers on it this seems to be the main part:
https://online-katalog.feller.ch/kat_details.php?fnr=87303.F.61 (sorry, no english version)

There are three sockets:

two are fed from black L-connection
the third one with the switch symbol next to it is fed from orange/red A-connection.

This can be used in conjunction with a switch in such a way that you can switch the one output on and off. Particularly useful with a built in switch right next to the socket I guess.
Otherwise if you don't want to use the separate socket switched, you can of course simply use a jumper wire from black to orange tab, as noted by @troubleshooter in the comments below.


Flexible Metal Conduit length limits with grounding Basic question - if I have a long run of flexible mc, 12/2 with a green equipment ground wire inside, am I limited in my overall length of this run as long as I meet the support requirements? I see conflicting statements online about 6’ limits unless I provide another dedicated equipment ground line.

I have a garage with finished walls, and want to add a circuit to provide a few additional outlets for the garage and for the outside walls of the garage on the exterior.

The service panel is in the 2 car garage on one far exterior wall, and I need to make a run from the panel to the closest one side of garage door 1 for an outlet, up and over the door and down to put an outlet between the doors, up and over the second door to put an outlet on the side of door #2, and then transition through the wall to put an outlet on the exterior outside.

The runs up and over the doors will be about 30’.

If I tie the box/outlets together with the green wire inside the fmc, will this suffice to provide proper grounding?

I am confused as to whether you are using FMC or MC cable.

Flexible Metal Conduit

This is empty conduit (a pipe) in which you add your own wires.  The metal shell of FMC can be used as a grounding path provided it is less than 6 feet and terminated into metal boxes with cable clamps listed for FMC.  But I don't consider it a best practice.

You add as many THWN-2 (aka THHN) individual wires as you please.  For circuits >20A, you can run currents out of the 75C column of 310.15B16, so in this case #8 is ok for 50A.

Some people have only ever seen Romex style cable in their whole lives, and have never conceived of the idea of individual wires.  Those people believe when you use conduit, you must then chicken-choke the very stiff Romex down the conduit. However, since Romex comes with a bare ground wire, I doubt you'd be asking about grounds in that case.

I recommend you run a ground wire in FMC regardless.  If you don't want to buy yet another color, then simply strip the insulation off; bare is an acceptable ground color.

MC Cable

MC cable has all its wires pre-packed inside the MC cable.  The shell may not be used as ground, period.  Proof of this is that they provide a green or bare wire for the specific purpose of being a ground...

...which begs the question "Why would you need shell as ground?"  If the answer is "Because I plan to use green as a conductor", nope.  You cannot re-task or re-mark a green wire to be anything but a ground.  For that, run 12/3 MC; or run FMC conduit and any wires you please.


Why are 24 TPI jigsaw blades recommended only for up to 3mm of metal? Multiple German manufacturers e.g. Bosch, Wilpu only recommend their 24 TPI (or 1mm tooth pitch) only up to 2.2 or 3 mm of metal, leaving their coarser 14 TPI (2mm tooth pitch) for up to 6mm metal. I've cut 6 to 8mm bars (axes for doors and window handles) with a 24 TPI blade and had no issues... the blade didn't seem to lose any sharpness and the cut was a matter of seconds every time I used it. So what am I missing here by not using their recommended/coarser blade?

As far as I recall, the usual recommendation is to have roughly 3 teeth in the material. That gets it cut and moved out quickly, without grabbing excessively. The finer blade does not have room to store 6-8mm worth of shavings (i.e. in the tooth gullets until the blade comes out the far side) so it does not cut as well as is ideal, since it is "packed full" before it can dump chips.


Single breaker, split wire that is inaccessible and one wire not working I have an upstairs bedroom and main level entryway light that are on the same breaker.  The entryway light is working, but the bedroom is not.  I have found a wire in the bedroom crawl/attic that isn't hot when the breaker is on, and one wire that is.  I confirmed that the one that is hot is for the entryway light. So there is one wire in attic area that is working correctly and powering the entryway light, and one that is not working that is used for the bedroom.   Is there an issue with cutting the non working wire, capping it and just leaving it in case it comes on, and pig tailing the other side after cutting that feeds the bedroom to the working entryway wire?

Breaker--->Wire from basement--->split two ways to 1.entryway light 2.bedroom

The whole issue started randomly by bedroom power turning off, and light still working.  I am sure they are on same breaker.  All of the 6 switches/outlets in the bedroom are backstabbed.  I changed the two that are used most, and still nothing.  Would one of those outlets going bad be able to cut power only to that area, since the entryway light has always worked properly?  If i could find where the main wire from basement breaker is split, i could fix that, if it's a loose connection.

thanks for any ideas.

If the bedroom power is being daisy chained through multiple outlets, I would physically check the wiring on each one.  I have encountered problems with backstabbed wiring several times.  Last time I fixed something similar for a friend.  Their power was daisy chained through 4 backstabbed outlets.  The third one in the chain was the problem.  It even tested good with a non-contact voltage reader.  It turned out to be an intermittent arcing connection.  I took out all the backstabs and wired them around the screw terminals.


Is there an ideal height for a workbench? Is there a universal standard height that people try to go for when building workbenches? Should DIY tabletops be tailor made to the height of the user and how does the ideal height of the tabletop correlate to the person?

I don't think there is specific universal height as people aren't manufactured in a specific universal height.

Googling for "workbench height" returns many results asking the same thing: what is the best height for a workbench.

This page suggests the following method:

  A good rule of thumb is to make the workbench table the same height as
  the distance from the floor to your wrist when letting your arms hang
  down. So if you stand next to your table, the height would be exactly
  where your hands would be touching it if you put your palms on the
  table.

The page goes on to say that you should consider the type of work you'll be doing. If you're doing lots of detail work, you may want to sit (so the bench shouldn't be too low or too high to accommodate a chair). If you're standing and decide to put those foam mats down to make it more comfortable, you might want to add a half inch or so. The final suggestion is if you have the space for it, have more than one workbench.


Wall plug outlet change I am replacing a 3 prong wall plug outlet receptacle with a new one that also has USB ports built in.  The old outlet had 2 black wires and 2 white wires attached and a ground wire.  The New outlet has only one screw for black and one for white.  Should i pigtail both blacks together and both whites together?
Thank you for your advice.

Look at each side of the old outlet. There will be copper tabs connecting the two screws that can be broken off. If the tab is intact, then connect them together.

If the tab is broken, connect to only one of the wires and leave the other disconnected (put a wirenut on the wire. Make sure the nut is small enough to grab onto the wire securely). Make sure to use the wires from the same top or bottom of the outlet.


What to do with a gap in the countertop next to kitchen sink? I screwed up cutting the hole for the 25" drop in sink on my $160 countertop. It's just a little too wide. What are my options besides buying a larger 33 inch sink and being more careful next time?

You can put a piece of wood on the edge, scoot the sink over by 1/8", and epoxy and caulk.  If this sink is highly utilized I wouldn't expect this to look pretty after six months.   You have the weight of dishes and water in the sink, you have dirt and grime, just nothing that will hold up like a countertop.

Even thinking of a weird solution that could cost you $10-20 to look crappy, a good sink can usually be had for $30-40 so I would personally install a bigger one.


How often should I spray a fresh concrete slab for it to cure properly? I plan on water-curing a concrete slab (4' x 8' x 4"). I figured I would just spray it with some water to keep it wet. How often do I need to spray water on the slab? When should I start spraying it?

Cover fresh concrete with some foil to prevent the water from evaporating.
After one day you can start to spray. The duration depends on the quality of the concrete. It could be from one to seven days.

The most important part is to keep the concrete wet so there is enough water for the hardening process.


How can I fit an oversize retaining wall base adjacent to sidewalk? I'm going to build a small retaining wall (about 3' tall) along the sidewalk in front of my house using Versa-lok standard blocks. They recommend compacted gravel base about 18" deep for blocks that are 12" deep. This would result in the gravel base a few inches in front and in back of the first course of blocks. Because of my sidewalk, I cannot excavate in front of the wall to have the gravel base in front of the wall. How big of a problem would this pose for such a short wall? I'm  also planning to use geogrid reinforcement fabric, proper drainage, etc.

Thanks in advance.

I think you're asking about width, and not depth. I'd simply excavate an inch or three under the sidewalk and fill it with your substrate, then set the wall tight to the sidewalk.

If this is not possible, build the base as wide as is practically feasible and compact it well. It's unlikely that you'll have problems with a three-course wall.


Why do grindstones produce a finer finish than sandpaper? I don't understand why a grinding stone seems to produce a much finer finish than the same grit of sandpaper.
For example, if I grind a piece of metal with an 80 grit silicon carbide grinding stone with a vitrified bond it has an almost mirror finish, but if use 80 grit sandpaper on the same metal it looks all scratched up. What's the difference?

A grinding wheel is a fundamentally different tool and is self shaping.  Whereas sandpaper has protruding edges at the resolution of the grit that tend to be lost in whole pieces as the paper wears, the grinding stone instead has a more or less flat surface with voids at the correct resolution.  The other factor is that the grinding stone works at a much higher velocity, which allows it to remove less material per pass than the sand paper, averaging out whatever gouges it creates and functioning the way a higher grit would at a lower velocity.  Even with sandpaper, you will find you can get a finer finish with gentle sanding than with rough.  If you use a sanding wheel to compare, you'll likely have much more similar results, and it also helps to pre-wear the sandpaper before sanding something fine.  When particles come loose from sandpaper they also tend to gouge.  When I'm wet sanding opal, whatever grit I'm using, I abuse the sandpaper a bit first with a suitably soft but less expensive stone to get rid of loose bits and jaggies.  I also have a 4000 grit diamond stone and a 600 grit Arkansas dry stone.  If I wet grind with the Arkansas dry stone, I can actually get a finer finish than with the 4000 grit diamond stone by utilizing the slurry that builds up as I grind, which functions as a much finer than 600 grit polishing paste.
400 grit is about 22 microns big, but if you spin it fast enough, you may only be using the outer 5 or less microns for example.


What is the equivalent degrees of one "turn" Often in install or specification manuals you will see something like:

  Tighten X turns past finger tight

Example

This has always bothered me as it seems ambiguous.  I've always taken this to mean a "turn of the hand".  Depending on flexibility, seems like this would be a little less than 180 degrees?

However, it could also easily be interpreted as a full rotation (360 degrees)....

I'm honestly surprised that the lawyers allow this in technical specs like the example above (why not just give torque?).

A turn is 360 degrees.

You are expected to put a mark on the thing you are turning, so you can observe its rotation.

They have no way of knowing which kind of wrench you are using, what your wrenching style is, or what amount of swing angle local clearances will afford you.

"Hand/finger tight" is the point at which all free lash/slop has been removed, further turning actually loads the fastener, and torque becomes measurable.

In a fastener in tension, how much strain a "turn" amounts to depends an awful lot on the length of the fastener subject to tension. Getting from "strain" to "torque" then involves a lot of other stuff.

In the case of the anchor in your link, it has little to do with tension.  It is intentionally deforming the anchor to make it engage the hole you just drilled.


Could someone help identify this bug? My wife just found these bugs crawling all over a box in spare room. There were a bunch of them and they are tiny - almost invisible to the human eye. I can get some detail with my camera however.

Can anyone help me identify this bug?

I'm hoping it's not termites!

Tracked down thanks to Ken at BugGuide.

It's a booklouse


What should I keep in mind when extending downspouts? I am considering extending/connecting the downspouts of my house to some pvc piping which I will run underground. What are things that I need to keep in mind?

Specifically, I have the pvc piping but the joints I have are for 90 degree angles. Is it essential that they be at 45 degree instead?

Also, is it essential that the pvc piping be sloped down an inch or two for every length of pipe (in other words whats the difference if they are just level, wont the water run off anyways)?

Can I dig the trench and put the drainage piping next to the house or is it essential that the drain pipes be a couple feet away from the house as suggested by This Old House.

I live in the northeast where winters stay below freezing for several weeks (sometimes a couple months) of the year.

45 degree bends make the pipe easier to snake out if it becomes clogged. This can definitely save you a headache in the future.

Some suggest using a catchbasin with a grate below each downspout rather than connecting the downspouts directly to the underground pipe. This gives one last chance to keep leaves and dirt out of the underground piping.

Slope is definitely important for proper drainage.

As far as distance from the foundation, if you choose to  use non-perforated pipe, I suppose you could run them closer to your foundation, but I'd avoid it if possible.


Can I run 8 4 bulb fluorescent fixtures only on one breaker? Electrical  would 14 gauge wire 15amp breaker or should I use 12 gauge wire with a 20 amp breaker. It’s just lights only!

I am assuming the fixture you are referring to is something like a 2X4 layin or surface mount fixture with 4' fluorescent lamps. We used to use a rule of thumb of 200W per fixture. So 200*4 = 1600W or 13 1/3A if you voltage is 120V. These fixtures also need to be calculated as continuous duty or a circuit can only be loaded to 80%. A 15A circuit can only handle 12A worth of this type of load which means a 15A circuit can't handle your load. You can use a 20A circuit which would handle 16A of this type of load. That is what I would recommend.

If you still want to investigate using a 15A circuit, we would need more information on your fixture such as lamp and ballast type.


No hot water pressure - perhaps sediment clogging exit pipe from water heater Here's the situation:

Almost no hot water pressure (just a trickle) at all outputs (not just a single sink with an issue)
Cold water runs fine and has full pressure
Water heater is tank-style and is not leaking
Water heater was not regularly drained to reduce sediment buildup (and is old enough to likely have plenty of sediment inside)

Here's my rather uneducated guess: that sediment has built up inside the water heater and is clogging the exit pipe.

A repairman from the natural gas company inspected the water heater and said it's an easy repair: all that needs to be done is to clean off the water heater's exit pipe filter screen.

Okay... so I've searched all over the interwebs and I have not found a single site or video showing how to do this, or even if such a filter actually exists.

Is my guess of the cause of the issue a reasonable guess?  Is the repairman's recommendation correct?  Either way, besides calling a plumber, what's the best way to restore the hot water pressure?

It is fairly unlikely for boiler deposits/sediment to have blocked the outlet pipe as it is at the top of the tank, it is large, and sediment (by definition) settles to the bottom. I have never seen an "exit pipe filter screen".

A common problem is old shut-off valves not opening back up completely after they have been exercised. Another problem I have seen are these gimmick "heat-trapping" nipples installed at the heater inlet, they have little ball-check valves that fail and restrict water flow.

I live in an area with hard water (lots of minerals/dissolved solids) and I have never backflushed my water heater; it has been in service for 16 years with no problems. I am not saying you should not do it, I am just saying that the value is overrated when it comes to longevity (efficiency is another story).


Fixing Roof Sheathing Lacking Spacing I just started pulling up shingles to reroof a 1989 house only to discover the plywood sheathing was installed without gaps.  As a result, there is a lot of 1/4 inch buckling, especially on the unsupported seams.

Can I run a circular saw on all the seams set to the depth of the plywood to add spacing?  Will the buckles ever lay flat or do I need to replace all the panels with buckling?  can I put 2x4 pieces underneath in the attic and screw through the sheathing to try to level it out?

For your situation, I would cut the gaps like you suggest and add blocking to force the alignment of the edges. Plywood clips should have been used to keep the edges in alignment, but the gaps should have been there too. Over cut the gaps enough to make sure the butt joints are open totally

You will only need to use scraps to block the edges, you could even use 3/4" plywood for the blocking using 2 screws on either side of the gap. I would do the same with 2X if you used that as well, that way one screw will help the other draw the blocking tight to the plywood. The blocks do not need to go over the gap parallel to it, it can go perpendicular to the gap to bridge the two. That is how I described the screw install.


Patching a Small Hole in Drywall I have a small hole (2" x 1") in my drywall. The problem is that it is very close to a work box, so the smallest patch I can find it 4" x 4".

What can I do to patch this hole?

Using a level, and straight edge, draw a tight rectangle around the hole. Using a razor blade, or drywall saw, cut a clean hole. A saw will allow you to remove most of the material, and the razor will cut it cleanly. Then you can use the hole as a template to cut out the patch.

Before the patch can be installed, you will need to install a backer board to prevent the patch from falling inside of the wall. You can use just about any piece of wood as long as it is thick enough to hold a drywall screw without splitting. The wood needs to be long enough to be securely attached to the existing drywall on 2 opposite sides for strength. The screws must be at least an inch away from the edge of the hole so it does not crumble. You can also put a screw in the middle of the backer board prior to installation to give you something to hold onto while it is being installed.

Then screw the patch to the backer board to hold it in place. You can then clean up the edges of the drywall pieces to fix any imperfections. Use drywall compound to fill in the cracks, and cover up the screw heads. Keep this coat very thin, and just put in enough to fill in the voids. Let this dry, and then tape the edges with drywall tape. After this, you can skim coat the whole area to blend in the patch.


How to remove crayon off the wall? I'm doing a project I have to make a spray that erases crayon off the wall without removing the original paint.

How do I do that?

The first 3 results from Googling for "remove crayon from walls" yields:

Reader's Digest has several suggestions.
TipNut has several suggestions.
About.com has several suggestions.

Or are you looking to invent something new?


Do we need to waterproof cement floor in the garden to prevent water from accumulating under the soil? So we have this one corner in our back yard that we want to turn into a small garden. Here is a photo:

We plan to put soil in that corner, more or less at the height of the white paint.

There is a wall there between our garden and the neighbor's garden, and the wall of our house. We have waterproofed these walls (that is what that white layer is), but are worried that if we don't waterproof the cement floor itself, wet soil will still sit there and water will creep up the walls somehow or otherwise cause problems. To alleviate we plan to put a layer of sand and gravel at the bottom but we just really don't want to uproot things a couple years down the road and/or damage the walls.

Should we waterproof that bottom part as well?

IMO it is never a great idea to pile soil against the walls of your house. It may lead to damage to walls as you mention, and/or water intrusion at the foundation.
Buildings have rain gutters to direct water away from the foundation, you are now going to do the opposite.

I strongly suggest that you use a nice decorative pot or urn for your planting(s), so you will always be able to assess the conditions of the wall and foundation in the future.


Do solid hardwood floors have top laminate layers--or is this engineered? I am looking to refinish or replace an existing wood floor. The previous owner says the floor is solid hardwood. A contractor came to look and said he thinks it is solid, too. However, we had a dishwasher leak, and where there was water, a "laminate" looking layer of the floor has curled up and away from the rest of one plank. I've checked the air registers and I can't see an edge of a plank anywhere on the floor. Is is possible for a solid wood floor to have a thin layer on top? Or is this engineered?

Looks like a composite or engineered floor to me. That top layer will be 3mm or so thick and can be sanded once or twice if you don't go crazy with the sander.
Unfortunately most of these engineered floors do not fare well with moisture. Leave an offcut outside for a day or two and you'll see what I mean.


How to repair latex paint on drywall in bathroom? Within the two years we've lived in our house, the paint in our master bathroom has gone from glossy white to cracked and peeling in several spots.  In addition to this, staple-shaped rust spots are appearing around the edge of the ceiling, where the drywall tape would be.  The ceiling is slightly bubbling over the shower.

What do I need to do to save my walls and prevent them from getting worse?  We do run a vent while showering.

This is surely moisture related.

So first, check that the fan is properly vented! Sometimes a vent fan simply dumps into attic space above the bathroom.

Second, run the fan for a longer time. Timer controls are easily installed, in place of the switch. It can be set to run for up to an hour, making sure the moist air is properly exhausted. With a timer, you can set it, then walk away, knowing it will shut off after the set period of time.

As far as repairs to the existing walls go, you MUST first stop the moisture, or it will simply happen again.

Once that is done, only then should you fix the walls, the ceiling, the paint. If there is bubbled paint, it must be scraped down, down to a solid surface. If the wallboard beneath it has bubbled, then you may need to replace parts of it. Cement board is a good idea in a wet environment anyway.

If there is any mildew, it must be killed. Chlorine is one way, but if it has gotten a foothold in the wallboard, then pull down that wallboard.

Once you have a solid substrate to now re-finish, paint, wallpaper, and tile are all viable ideas.

One solution can be to use wallpaper. It will help hide some flaws perhaps more simply than paint, but if this is just done to hide a problem without first stopping the problem, then it will peel off quickly.

Where paint will be used, always use paint that has had a mildew-cide added to stop the growth of mildew. If the wallboard itself has bubbled, before you paint, make sure any holes have been smoothly patched first or they will show through the paint. If there are any stains, Kilz (or similar products) can help to seal those stains before you re-paint.

Tile (my personal favorite) can be more resistant to water than wallpaper or paint. So you may choose to extend the areas that tile covers.


Can I cut the wood between struts in my attic? My attic has these 1x4 slats nailed between struts in my attic. They don't seem to be very important, as they're clearly not load bearing. They also seem to be put up pretty sloppily. The problem is, I'm a big guy, and navigating around these this is pretty painful. Can I safely cut these without compromising the roof?

I am just going to confirm what has already been stated in the comments but add a little more to it. Yes the slats are to help keep spacing and are not structural.....anymore.

During the construction of the roof system these are also used to keep the trusses from falling over with the help of a number of diagonal braces before the plywood roof sheathing is put down. I have in the past, seen in the install guide for roof trusses how to place these braces during assembly, including the diagonals. There has never been a reference about removing them later, but I see no reason to leave them.

As a mention, instead of cutting them out, bring a hammer with you or pry bar and remove the whole thing. Cutting them out brings to mind rough ends, possibly splinters a plenty, and if you are a big guy as I am, while moving between the trusses, the less things to rub against or snag onto the better.


Advice for Removing Raceway Wiremolds I'm trying to remove several Raceway Wiremolds.

A few of the Wiremolds seems to be firmly stuck to the drywall. I'm worried if I pull too hard it will rip out chunks of paint/drywall. Any advice on removing them?

I was able to remove some of the Wiremolds - but they left a sticky residue behind. Any recommendations on how to remove it?

You could try running a putty knife or something behind them, but my actual advice for removing them is to have the spackle or drywall compound and paint handy, as scars are to be expected.

Hmm - heat  (as from a hair dryer - not so much as to scorch paint) might also help loosen the adhesive a bit.

As for the left-behind adhesive the usual suspects - goof-off, paint thinner, cleaning sprays, try various things looking for one that gets the adhesive but not the paint, or wait for a more specific suggestion here from someone who's done it recently.


Washing machine agitator not working Over the past few months, the agitator on my Maytag LAT9416AAE washer has worked intermittently. Normally, I could get it to resume working by pushing and pulling the selector/start knob a few times or moving it back to the beginning of the wash cycle. Now, it has stopped agitating altogether and no amount of coaxing will make it work.

The agitator engages with the spline as it is supposed to. I removed the front of the cabinet and ran a cycle. The motor does not even attempt to turn the belt when the agitator should be activated. However, it works fine to perform the spin cycle. The washer fills and drains without a problem and the timer advances through the entire cycle.

Is it possible that the timer is not sending the signal to run the motor during the agitator phase? Or is there a method to isolate the failed component?

I'm not familiar with your orbital transmission. But, what brief research I did implies the transmission is a common replacement on these, at almost $300. So, get a new washer.

A simple test on yours was to see if you could spin the big pulley by hand. It would turn only if still "good". The motor is trying to spin the transmission but it's completely locked up. But, if you can wiggle it, beat it with a sledge hammer or ask it nicely to move then move it & try an agitation run to see if it engages. If so, then still get a new washer.


What kind of garage flooring is this? I like the flooring here in this picture but wonder what it is

Is it some paint / stain on top of concrete? Because I can see the crack.

Or is it some laminate plastic thing?

Looks like an epoxy floor coating. Quikrete, Drylock, and Rust-Oleum have products, probably many other specialist coating and concrete manufacturers do as well (I have a can of Quikrete's version kicking around somewhere that I got from a friend who overbought it, but I haven't gotten around to putting it down yet. Can't really help beyond identification).


What is the downside to installing faced fiberglass insulation in a dirt floor crawlspace vs non-faced? I have a vapor barrier on the dirt floor already.  The insulation will go in the floor joists above, paper side down.

"When fiberglass batts are installed in the ceiling of a crawlspace, gravity always wins in the end" source

Faced or unfaced, it is almost always a bad idea to insulate the floor above a crawlspace, especially with fiberglass batts. Insulate the crawlspace walls and seal the vents instead. The one exception is if you are in a flood zone.

A sealed crawlspace will be drier, healthier, and usually more energy efficient than one insulated at the floor.


Frame wall with steel post at corner How do I frame this corner?  There are already two walls up (the one on the left that will become a closet), but that the corner where they meet is a steel post.  Obviously I can't move that, and I can't move the walls as they support the stairs.

For what it's worth, the distance from the pole to the edge on the right side is 15/16" (and that's being generous) and about 1 1/4" to the bottom.

if the post is within the line of the walls:

Blue is existing, red is nailing strips, green is bulkhead...


Why is my Bosch drill working intermittently? My cordless Bosch drill/driver will only work the first time the switch is pressed after attaching the battery. As soon as I release the pressure, it won’t work again until I remove the battery and replace it. Then, once again, it only works the first time the switch is pressed, and then... Nothing. Highly infuriating! It’s exactly the same with different batteries, so I don’t think it’s a battery problem. The problem is the same in forward and reverse, and in drill and screwdriver functions. Please can anyone help diagnose the fault? I’d be really grateful! Thank you.

I had the same problem, I emptied half I can of aerosol contact cleaner into it, vents, trigger chuck ect, goes well again


How should I connect the left light switch? I am replacing three smart light switches in the following wire box with new smart light switches that don't need the neutral wire:

The wire box has 4 sets of cables for only 3 light switches and I forgot to take a picture of how they were connected before. I remember that the two left white wires were connected together though.
I was able to connect the two right switches and they worked correctly, but the way I connected the left one fried when I turned it on.
How should I be connecting the left one correctly?

Easy enough here
The good news is that the two left cables aren't doing anything complicated.  One of them is an incoming power feed, and the other is the onward feed to the light, providing both hot and neutral.  Furthermore, since the white wires there were connected to each other as expected, we know the black wires are our line and load connections.  So, I'd figure out which of those two black wires is the always-hot (line) connection, and wire that to the line-in terminal on the smart switch.  Then, the other black wire is the switched-hot, which gets wired to the load-out terminal on the smart switch.  The two neutrals get nutted to each other, and last but not least, the ground for the smart switch gets added to the existing grounding bundle in the box.  Then you can button everything back up, turn the breaker on, and enjoy your new smartswitches!


How long to pump well out for What is the procedure for restarting a drilled well?

1st pump was clear, but after that cloudy.  How long and how many times to pump to clear it up?  Will silt damage the pump?

I pumped 4 times into two 5 gallon buckets

In general, moderate silt won't damage a typical electric well pump, as there are no close clearances (virtually all are not a piston with seals, it's a set of impellers which have space between them and the silt just flows through with the water.)

Heavy sand over long periods of time can cause significant wear, but that does not look like what you show, and in any case you either have to live with it, (and replace your pump more often) or possibly reposition the pump to try and minimize it. You can use various filters to keep it out of the plumbing if it persists, but it may not persist once you have flushed things out a bit.

Are you pumping into a 5 gallon bucket inside the building? Put a hose on, run it outside, and run it for an hour or so, keeping an eye/ear on it so you can shut it off just as soon as water stops coming out, if it does.

Pay attention to when that happens, and make the occasional check of how long it takes to fill a bucket for an estimate of flow rate (which will vary over time as the water level in the well drops) and you can get an estimate of your well's recharge rate. You'll also get an idea of how the silt is progressing. If your well recharge rate is high enough, it may just keep pumping the whole hour, that's fine.

Leave it several hours or a day to fully recharge, and repeat for perhaps a week, perhaps less depending what you see for collected silt.

Your previous post has some data regarding the "volume of water in the well" which implies a 6 inch casing and counting the water below the pump (10 feet off the bottom of the well) which you cannot pump. In reality (if those figures are still accurate - water-tables not being fixed) you have about 110 gallons "stored in the well" you can access, and anything more than that you get out over a period of time informs the recharge rate of the well (typically stated in gallons per minute.) So if you pumped out ~200 gallons over the course of 30 minutes and then the water stopped, you could infer that about 90 gallons flowed in over the 30 minutes, implying 3 gallons per minute inflow. But if your pump pumps out slower than water comes in, the water would never stop - but you'd still have a number for the minimum rate of inflow you could infer. That's merely information, but it's often good information to have.

In "flushing out the well" you certainly want to pump out MORE than the "stored volume" each time, since water WILL come into the well (and if the well has not been used for a long time, the initial inflow may indeed carry some silt with it.)