Three wire vs four wire feed remote sub panel I added a drawing. of both wiring configurations. The only advantage I can see is the 4 wire gives you a dedicated ground fault circuit vs sharing the neutral wire.
Open neutral between the two panels would make the ground hot in the 3 wire.

Open neutral between the main panel and transformer would make the ground hot in the 4 wire.

I am trying to understand how this works and why the code changed. In this case you have a detached shop 250 feet away with no plumbing or other connections to the house with the main panel.

The current NEC code requires a 4-wire feeder so there is a separate grounding connector between the Main and Sub panels. The neutral and ground are not bonded in the subpanel. In this setup if a hot wire coming in contact with the non-current carrying parts of the electrical system, (outlet covers, panel covers etc), the 4th ground conductor will provide a low resistance patch back to the source tripping a breaker.
This 4th grounding connector ties the ground rod at the sub panel to the ground rod at the Main panel making a grounding system.

How were the sub panels wired when 3 wires were allowed? Was the neutral and ground bonded in the Sub panel so the neutral wire served as the grounding connector?  Was this code changed for the same reason 220 volt plugs went from 3 to 4 wire?

Back in the old days, grounds didn't exist at all.  Mains electrical was wired as an isolated system.  It still is, but now we've added ground as a safety shield.

When they started to require grounding, they went to pains to make sure they weren't mandating old work be retrofitted.  Old work is "grandfathered" - if it was legal at time of installation, it is still legal today.  However grandfathered work does not have the safety features now required; because of that many upgrade it voluntarily.

In some cases: dryers, ranges and subpanels, they allowed groundless connection, but attached ground to the neutral wire "since they're the same back at the panel".  That proved to have problems, as you mention in comments. Notably a simple wire break of the neutral wire can result in all things which are supposed to be grounded now  being electrified.

Now, in a subpanel, it is normal for the load not to be balanced, and for there to be say, 20A of flow on the neutral wire.  What happens when that neutral breaks?  Now the current is trying to return via the grounding rods. And at 25 ohms, which is the max resistance allowed for a single ground rod to be acceptable, that doesn't have a chance of safely earthing that much current.


Can a hand drill drill 1/4"-1/2" holes into 1" thick aluminum? I'm making some baseplates in my home for a custom camera system and I'll need to be drilling many holes into plates of aluminum. I'm planning to use 6061 aluminum and need to drill holes anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2". And later will be tapping them.

Is a handheld drill capable of drilling these holes into aluminum up to 1" thick?

I would say, "yes, but...".

First of all, you'll need the appropriate bit. Tungsten carbide is the go-to for most metal drilling, and such bits are usually also designed to drill efficiently into metal and remove the waste. You can probably also find diamond-tipped bits which will also be good at biting into the metal and removing it. Your average drill bit for hardwoods won't be up to the task; it won't bite, will dull quickly, and will bind easily.

Metal drilling usually requires use of an oil or other drilling fluid to cool the bit. This would make drilling by hand a two-person job; one to hold the drill steady, the other to apply the drilling fluid.

The last point of concern is not overstressing the drill's motor. This is usually just a matter of not pressing too hard, and letting the drill do the work in its sweet time. But, it also generally means having a drill with the chutzpah to handle the job. As was said in the comments there are plenty of hand drills with enough torque for this kind of work, but your $30 range is probably not in that class.


WR outlets; is it trying to tell you which way is up? I know about this question (I posted an answer to it), but this one's a little more specific.

Consider a weather-resistant outlet, like the ones below:

Notice the first picture has the plug in what most of us would call "right-side-up" orientation; the blades are above the ground pin and it looks like a face. However, the blue WR logo is upside-down when you look at it this way. (It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the TR logos between the blade slots are oriented so that the logo for the receptacle on top of the assembly is right-side up either way.)

The second picture shows a similar plug, oriented so the blue WR label is right-side-up. This places the ground pin above the current-carrying blades. That got me thinking that this was done for a reason, perhaps to get us to mount the plug "upside-down", contrary to most folks' sensibilities, in order to provide the best weather resistance. It makes a certain amount of sense; a plug mounted this way that then gets rained on would have water contact the ground pin or conductors first, and then drip down to one of the powered legs, causing a short to ground that trips the breaker and is somewhat less likely to try to conduct through you.

Are the manufacturers trying to tell us something? Is it preferable, regardless of how you would normally orient a non-WR outlet, to install a WR outlet ground-pin up?

The NEC book does not address the issue, though many Outlet Suppliers have cut-sheets that say to mount with the ground up. From the brief comments I had with Electricians and Inspectors, it because if a plug is pulled slightly out form a outlet, there is a potential for something to connect the Hot/Neutral together by landing across the two spades. If the Ground is up, that potential for that is dramatically decreased.   What does the cutsheet for your outlet say?

Most plug (not outlet) vendors make plugs for devices that have the ground down as that seems to be the way most people install them.

All of my Installs have been with the Ground up.


Where am I losing heat from my house? My house is about 5 years old and our local building codes required a 5-star energy rating (Melbourne, Australia). This means there's solar hot water and both the walls and ceiling are insulated.

But it takes a lot of energy to heat the room, and as soon as you turn off the central heating (ceiling ducted) the house cools very quickly.

Somewhere, somehow, I'm losing way too much heat.

How do I work out where the heat is going? There's probably a lot of things I can do to save some of the heat, like installing double-glazing or even putting pelmets above the windows. But I would rather work out if the heat is going somewhere in particular that I can quickly and easily rectify.

Is there some gadget I can get to test something? Or some other method that's free/cheap?

Find an isulation installer that is a certified thermographer. An infrared scan of your home should reveal where the heat loss is occuring. The best time to do this is when the outside temp is lowest and your house is warmest. The problem could be missing or improperly installed insulation. Without a scan you are only quessing what the problem is. Ask about a repeat scan after any repairs to verify the problem has been resolved.


Doorbell Transformer Trying to install a nest doorbell but need to change the transformer. I believe I found it here but it is attached to a switch next to the furnace. When I unhooked the wires the doorbell stopped working so I believe this is it. Would like a second opinion?

That is definitely what you're looking for. To be safe,trace the wires as far as you can to make sure they're not connected to anything else too. That's a strange location for one, mounted on a box to a furnace. Determine if the switch controls the transformer, that would be strange too. Make sure it's not feeding your thermostat.


Will separate dishwasher drain cause sewer gases and wet dog smell? Will this separate pipe for dishwasher cause sewer gases to enter into cabinet and dishwasher to get wet dog smell? The separate dishwasher pipe design - at top of pipe is a 2” Wye fitting - one side is open and other side dishwasher drain hose goes into it, the wye is connected to a straight pipe, then a p-trap (glued on), then a pipe connecting into drain / waste line (same drain line the sink connects to above it).  The corrugated dishwasher hose goes diagonal to straight pipe and is zip tied (little bit of flat) and then up to wye opening (not a smooth high loop).
If so, how do I correct problem? can I cut off Wye and cap pipe, connect dishwasher to Insinkator with high loop inside cabinet - note sink and insinkator have Oatey aav (dfu 20) for vent?  Have a similar setup with a basement bar sink but no garbage disposal.  Been trying to determine where sewer gas (methane) is coming from.  Put clear p traps on today to see if aav (put new one a few days ago) are working or high winds drawing down p traps. Have water softener, well water has been tested, septic tank cleaned last year, raised roof stacks foot and put candy cane with 3/8” drilled hole caps, ran garden hose down every roof stack, recaulked all toilets.  Plumber that designed n installed long gone and was approved by county so please no comments just solutions.

The smell is almost certainly from your AAV.   While they are not to dispose of gases from the pipes, they always do.   Having an AAV makes really no sense because you are going into a wall.
It doubly makes no sense because there seems to be another drain without one - unless I am not seeing it in the picture.
The only "fix" is to have this drain attached to a proper vent which is probably in the wall behind it.   There is no other "fix" unless you just upgrade the AAV and hope it does a better job of not letting smells out.
As far as dishwasher - it should be going into garbage disposal.   I don't think that is the smell issue but might as well get it right.


What acceptable alternatives to trickle vents are available? Building Regulations require new windows to have trickle vents.  What alternatives are acceptable?  Can I put in a wall vent instead, like a hit and miss type, or air bricks?  I do not want to buy a beautiful hit spec. window and then put an ugly trickle vent and canopy in the frame, and some of my windows will not take this.

Since I am retired, this was something I had not heard of. It took me about 10 minutes to get a handle on the situation. Basically, it is an attempt to put a band aid on a problem the building regulations have caused. They seem to be using information supplied by ASHRAE, or the people that design, and influence sales of heating and air conditioning products, (In the name of our health), to make these regulations.

If you do not have a super tight insulated new home, or are building one, it probably has enough inherent ventilation that you don't need trickle vents, if replacing windows in an older house. (?Why would you be replacing them in a new one?) I would agree they may be a good idea,--- if the windows came designed with them.

I agree with you Iggy, I think bathroom fans and maybe kitchen ones, VOC, humidity operated, would be good, but those rooms need to be isolated to prevent that moisture from easily getting to other rooms. While it may be important, requirements designed by those with the most to gain from them, should not be the only ones considered for building regulations, and laws are not supposed to be made retroactive.

Yes archess, you should indeed contact your building inspector and ask if you are required to comply, what alternatives are allowed, and most importantly, to explain why.


Install a ceiling fan I am taking down a light fixture that has 2 wires, a black wire hot and a white wire neutral.  The ceiling fan I am installing has a Black wire a white wire and ground wire.  Do I just take the neutral wire and ground and put them together?

OK, the white wire is your neutral, not ground. If you only have a white and a black out of the ceiling box, then I'm guessing the box is metal and probably grounded. Check the box to make sure it's rated for a ceiling fan. It usually says so inside. Install the fan bracket and then the fan. Hook the black hot to the black from the the fan. Hook the white neutral from the box to the white from the fan. Hook the bare copper or green wire from the fan to the box or green screw on the bracket.


How tight should a Maid-o-Mist steam valve adjustment screw be? I have a single pipe steam heat system with radiators.  To use this system I use the Maid-o-Mist brand valves.  These valves come in different sizes.  The website provides a nice diagram about what should go where:

And it seems that the difference in the size is just about the little piece that screws into top of the valve.

Now here is the part I don't understand.  Because this part screws in, does it have to be tight?  It never says anywhere on the website and it feels like loosening it is an adjustment.  But maybe it just loosens because it was easier to make it that way.

Question >> How tight should the top piece be for normal operation?

Link of interest: Product web page

The particular model in the diagram should have the orifice hand tight. If the orifice is left loose it can vibrate loose and fall off. There are other models and other brands that are adjustable. By turning the cap you expose more or less of the orifice. The larger the orifice the faster the air is expelled. This allows the steam to enter the radiator at a somewhat controlled rate. This allows you to slow or increase the rate that the radiator warms to balance the heat from room to room.


How do I remove hard deposits from my glass shower door? I have a problem with regards to my frameless glass shower door because I don't usually clean it regularly. What happens is that the lower edge of the glass door is already very cloudy and is very coarse in texture. I tried to use some vinegar and water dipped with newspaper since I prefer using natural cleaners but it just won't work. Maybe it has accumulated too much that it can hardly be removed.

Do you have any other idea on what natural method to use for removing it? If possible,  I don't want to use the common glass cleaners sold on the market. That's the last choice for me.

Try using straight vinegar, right from a spray bottle.  It may work better if it's heated first.  Then try wiping with a used dryer sheet.

If that doesn't work, then you'll probably have to resort to something like CLR, at least for the initial cleaning.


How to adjust hinges on interior doors? Putting up new interior doors in a house.  I have a door that has probably a good 5/16" gap on the hinge side.  The gap is wider at the middle of the door and closer to 1/8" on door top/bottom.  Of course said door hits...

These are for new doors in old jams.  We did chisel these out and out of the 12 doors the only issue.  The hinges are lined up well and the hinge plates sit flat about 1/32" below door surface (and we made no modification to the framing).

This has us a bit stumped because when there is a hinge side gap that usually means our hinge is sticking out of the door and we just chisel off more... But not the case here.

Any pointers on this specific issue?  Also it would be great if someone could address the easiest adjustments to make depending on where the gap is at.  Basically looking for a cheatsheet I could give someone.

I will try to figure out your situation. You have only one door that has a good acceptable gap at the top and bottom, but a huge gap in the center. You have new door leaves you are installing, presuming the edges are still factory straight, or like factory straight, if you had to trim on the door to get it to fit the original jambs.. If the door has a 3rd hinge, the hinge in the easiest case, but not the best case, is just shimmed to meet the edge of the door leaf. It will be unsightly, but will work. The best case, would be to remove the trim at least on the hinge side of the jamb to get access to the shims, set the door in place, Do not install the pin in the middle hinge and shim the jamb over to get the barrel of the center hinge to line up, drop the pin in and reset the trim.

11-5-2015 edit to address the first comment below

Yes, to me there is a science, perhaps a sequence is a good term too, either way it will give repeatable results. In existing door jambs, check the jambs in all fashions, plumb, straight, parallel, square at top. If the hinges are not in line, they MUST be to get good results. You can simply use a straight edge for this. No, it must not necessarily be plumb, but it should be close, ideally with in a 1/4" so it is not a self closing or opening door. To shim the hinge, I prefer NOT to shim under the whole hinge, just at the edge of the jamb. This angling of the hinge to get the pins to line up will allow one edge of the hinge to stay engaged fully into the original mortise. Which I think, helps keep the hinge looking proper in it place, as much as possible. Shimming in this fashion helps eliminate another problem of "hinge bind".

As a note, hinges should not be set 1/32" below the face of the jamb, it should be just the opposite, 1/32" proud of the jamb, this also helps eliminate hinge bind. When set this helps give a slight more room for the door at the jamb. When the hinges are inset, closes the gap smaller and perhaps may allow the door leaf to hit the jamb before it is closed fully at the hinge side (hinge bind). The hinge when set the way I suggest also allows for the painter to have an edge to follow when cutting in around the hinges, aiding in a neater paint job.

After the jamb is understood and the pins are inline, cut the door leaf to size if needed. Scribing the top to match the head jamb so the gap is even. Cut the sides if needed to get the slab to fit in the opening with the hinges folded into the jamb. This fitment MUST be snug, not tight. When the hinges are cut into the side of the door, the gap at the slam side will be created.

Set your other hardware.


Finishing Basement, Help with Plumbing Pipes I am finishing my basement and am starting to plan the bathroom, but I do not have plumbing experience. The house was built in the 1980’s and completely torn down to the studs and rebuilt in 2013. There are a few pipes in the basement that I need help identifying. Pictures are attached and any help is very much appreciated.
Basement Drawing:

Bathroom Space:

Pipe 1 on the opposite side of from the twin pipes:

Floor Hole 1:

Twin Pipes, Pipes 2 and 3:

The first thing that is important to note is that the pipe size is imprinted on the black 'Jim caps" that are on the ends of the pipes. The twin black pipes are 2" no-hub cast iron and the white PVC looks to be the same 2" but the picture you have is partially obscured so I couldn't read it. Floor hole #1 looks to be the toilet roughing and by the looks of it appears to be 4". By cleaning the concrete off the cap you should be able to see the writing. The concrete needs to be carefully and accurately chipped away from around the cap so it can be removed for further inspection and eventual connection. You will probably find a stainless steel clamp like the ones on the other twin pipes on that pipe below the concrete which has to be removed to get the cap off. That toilet pipe should be about 12 inches off the left wall and that would make it the wall the toilet was intended to be installed to. The twin pipes are less certain. My best guess without measurements is that the pipe closer to the edge of the plywood is a waste pipe for a tub or shower and the other is the tub vent. A video inspection of the pipes should be done prior to completing the bathroom. If it is indeed the waste for a shower you will have to remove some of the concrete to facilitate connecting the base/tub. The PVC against the wall is probably the waste for a sink. All caps should be taken off and a visual inspection done to try to see which way they run once under the concrete slab. Then, running water through one at a time will give you a better idea of what was done
It was a common practice in my area in the 80's when you built a house to pipe out waste pipes for a basement bathroom at the request of new owners so that when the owner got around to finish the basement the concrete slab did not have to be broken up.
An accurate diagram of the measurements of the pipes and how far from the walls would help to confirm my suspicions. Also look to see if they left you a place (in the ceiling)to connect the plumbing venting for the bathroom.
FYI- It looks like you are planning on putting the wood flooring system under the bathroom floor. My experiences has made me prefer to have basement bathroom floors consist of ceramic tile installed directly on the concrete slab. This eliminates the possibility of any water that reaches the floor by any means doing damage to the wood subfloor. If you're in a colder zone and you are worried about a cold floor you can always put down a plastic waterproofing tile membrane first which will act as a thermal break.


Repair fallen stone above fireplace I have a stone arch stuck to the wall above my wood burning stove. One of the stones has fallen off and I’m not sure how to repair it.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The stone that fell weights approx 15 lbs and is roughly 14x17x7/8”.

The stones seem to be attached to the wall with some kind of cement (some of it came loose or off when the stone came down but most of it is still there). The cement itself is about as think as the stone.

Under the cement on the wall seems to be a kind of metal arch that it’s adhered to.

Any suggestions how to put this stone back up?  Should I chisel down all the cement that was behind it and then use something to replace it and put the stone back up?  What should I use for the cement? When I put it up how do I keep it up there until it can stay on it’s own?  Sorry I’m unfamiliar with all of this and google searches weren’t finding the right info.

Thanks

You will need mortar to resecure the rock.  Here is a good guide as to what product to select.  Check the second item under mortar.

https://www.lowes.com/projects/build-and-remodel/masonry-and-cement-products-buying-guide/project

As you predicted, you will need to remove most of the d mortar from both the wall and the backside of the stone.  Use a small cold chisel and a hammer.  This is required for a good bond and so that the stone is at the same level as the others.

Mix a small batch, make sure it's not too wet and smear it on the backside of the stone and on the wall.  Apply the stone and hammer it with a rubber mallet until it is level with the others.  Clean up any mortar that has leaked out.

Now the hard part, you will need to secure the stone until it dries.  Probably the easiest would be a small piece of wood wedged under the stone to hold it up and use painters tape to hold it against the wall.


GFCI plug tripping from a refrigerator that is plugged in last on the line I finished my basement that was roughed in 10 years ago and found out that my refrigerator plug is on the end of the GFCi line of plugs. There is only one GFCi plug nearest to the box that feeds the line of plugs to the refrigerator. When I plugged in my older refrigerator it tripped the GFCi plug. How do I make the plug that the refrigerator plugs into at the end of the line a non-GFCi?  If I put that one gfci plug on the line only,  would I then install a GFCI plug all the way down to the fridge and they will still be GFCI covered?

I’m not going to address the issue of if a GFCI is required but instead directly address the asked question.

On a GFCI outlet, the are two sets of hot/neutral connections, “line” and “load”. The incoming power is connected to the “line” terminals. Downstream outlets to be protected are connected to the “load” terminals.

What you can do, on the GFCI, is disconnect the downstream wires from the “load” side and instead connect them, along with the power wires, to the “line” side. (You should probably do this with wirenuts connecting the wires along with short wires (pigtails) to the outlet.) This will remove the GFCI protection from all of the downstream outlets. Any that still need protection should be replaced by additional GFCI outlets, keeping everything connected to the “line” terminals.


What should I do about this gap between the tub and tile? anyone have any ideas what to do with the front edge of the tub.  My tub is rounded on the front top edges.  I have about a half inch gap. Looks to small to cut and mortar in a triangular piece of tile.   I was thinking of using sanded grout against the tile and caulk abound the tub.  Any suggestions? I have colored sanded caulk from the tile shop.  Could I just fill the gap with this?  Suggestions welcome

OK this is a lot of talk about a very minor issue.

First the issue is because you laid your first row too high (or it's slightly off level).  I would also suggest going a little further out of the tub but if your tiles laid out to that width without cut I could see stopping.

Grout the gap.  Anything else would be silly at the point.  Also your grout color matches your tile well so should not be an issue.


What to do with metal frame for clothesline? I've bought a house that has these metal pipes which were used for a clothesline in generations past.

The house also came with a washer and dryer.

I will probably rent or sell the house in 1 - 3 years, so if it's going to detract from the value of the house in any way, then I want to leave them as-is. However, if it would not impact (or increase) the value of the house, I suppose I should remove them.

So, my questions are:

Should I remove them?
If I should remove them, do I just dig them up with a shovel, or is there more to it than that?

Some might not like the looks; if they're not being used just dig them up. They may have a chunk of concrete that may be as deep as 2 feet.

At my last house I ran a steel wire on both ends then planted string beans with twine from the ground up. Way two many beans but it was fun.


Easy way to seal an old plumbing vent I plan on buying a house but it has this cleanout and old vent for the plumbing in the basement.  Whoever renovated the basement disconnected the vent and just let air flow into the basement.

Is there a simple way to seal off this vent so it wont stink in the basement?  Is this a serious issue that needs to be handled by a plumber?

Fernco makes rubber caps that you would put a stainless worm-gear clamp around.  Take your outside diameter measurement to a plumbing supply house.. What your have is a main drain and cleanout wye.  As suggested by dmoore, future plumbing may be connected, though its not a toilet flange.  Its likely the point of exit for the drain system (from the house), as it traverses to the sewer (or septic), to allow the drain to be snaked out, if obstructed.


Installing New panel I am installing a new service in an outbuilding,  It is not at my residence so I can't test it readily.  On the neutral/grounding bars in the panel, it appears as if the neutral and ground are all connected.  In fact, on both bars, there are 2 screws for ground/neutral.  To clear this up, on older panels the screws are right underneath each other.  On this panel, there are 2 screws, space, 2 screws.  this is what makes me think the ground and neutral can be on the same bar.  The panel box is from Lowe' and I think it might be called Homelite.

Since this has its own meter, it's its own service entrance, but put a ground bar in anyway

Since you're getting a separately metered drop from the utility (instead of running a feeder from another building on the property), it's a service entrance all its own, so a service bond between neutral and ground needs to be established here.  (In other words, the green screw or strap that makes the neutral-to-ground connection stays put.)

I would still get a ground bar (Square-D PK15GTAL) and install it in the panel, then land the grounds separately from the neutrals, though, as this makes converting the panel to run off a feeder at a later date rather easier.  (Having two services on the property can get...awkward if you want control of say outdoor lights from both buildings.)


Kitchen double sink drain pipe reverse slope The plumber just finished my kitchen sink installation, and I noticed that the horizontal pipe connecting the two sink bowl drains has a slight up-slope (maybe 1/8") over its length toward the point it "T"s into the trap. As I see it, there will always be a small amount of water puddled in the pipe because of this. To do it right, it should be sloped toward the trap. My question is: is this really a problem waiting to happen? Do I need to call him back to re-do the drain? Or am I just overly fussy?

I do not think you are overly fussy if you paid someone to install a drain line it should be done correctly. That said a drain to drain connector that was just a 1/8" difference would allow such a small amount of water to puddle in the pipe that it would evaporate in short order anyway.

Most of the piping pieces to make up a drain and trap assembly are typically joined with slip joints that can be easily adjusted. You may be able to simply move one or two joints slightly to correct the slope and avoid the aggravation of trying to re-engage with the plumber.


Do you use tempered glass for kitchen cabinet doors? Do you use tempered glass for kitchen cabinet doors?
This is for uppers.
I'm wondering if it's recommended, mandatory (I'm in CA, USA), or overkill.

I agree with keshlam & it's definitely not overkill. I haven't run into any tempered glass paneled doors for uppers, except my own. Tempered is required for anything within 18" of the floor. And, most cabinet makers will tell you to go get regular glass to put in the empty frame doors they ship.

But, I'd (& have) go for either Tempered or Laminated Glass if possible. Laminated Glass is regular glass glued to a rubber membrane to retain the glass, you're local glass shops may have this to custom cut for same or next day pickup. So, no big shards hurt or kill someone if something happens, like an earthquake.


Open Compute Server needs 220v to run. Can I use voltage convertor to run it? So I bought an open compute kind of server  and it runs on 220 volts and 700 watts power supply. So I decided to purchase a voltage converter(Transformer)  My question is is this stable and will I have problems in the future? Please excuse me I am kinda new to this thing.

I also forgot to mention that I hooked up a UPS which gives 865 watts between the power source and the converter which is connected to my server.

Until now, I am afraid to turn it on, I am afraid of fire. So please I need your help Thank you

This is the transformer I bought

this is the server

In the US, you have easy access to 240 volts. Look up a tutorial on how to add a circuit for a dryer or an electric stove.


framing feedback for ground level deck 10'x22' I am planning to build a ground level deck in bay area in northern California where we have pretty nice weather, and no snow in my living area. I am looking for feedback with following specs

finish height 13"
on existing uneven concrete patio (highest to lowest is around 1.5")
composite deck 1" thickness
16" OC for internal joist
most of the time it should be empty deck and no huge furnitures.

I used decks.designer.com to draw a fairly simple layout.

Questions

is 2x8x10 PT Hem fir ok to span a little less than 10' for internal joists? I looked on decks.com and for 16" O.C, it claims 11'-1" for span.
Rim beams: I am planning to use double 2x8x8 for the rim beam for long sides only (22'), which should give me around around 7' span for double 2x8. Or I need more footing to support shorter span?
Is 4x4 posts enough? Or I need to use 6x6 posts? I know 6x6 will meet all codes, but wonder if I can just use 4x4.

Have you considered a floating deck - a.k.a. "Dek Blocks"? That makes a totally DIY project, and depending on location, either no permits or minimal permits. No concrete to pour, no digging. Deck sits on special blocks instead of being anchored to footings. Deck is not attached to house. There are height limitations, but 13" is effectively "nothing" (or ground-level as you stated).
I have no affiliation with the manufacturer - just built one myself (with my evil twin helping) several years ago, 14' x 14'.


Is my main-panel's neutral currently bonded to ground? Good Day,
I am installing a sub panel in a detached workshop. I have seen that in the main panel that my neutral should be bonded to the ground in the main panel and not in the sub panel. Looking at my main panel, I cannot tell if the neutral is bonded or not. If it is not, does this change the way I hook up the sub panel? Pic is attached, can anyone tell if they are bonded? Thank You!

Added image of entire panel and this is the only service panel.

From the look of this diagram it seems to me that it is not bonded. I am also looking into google.

On the lack of ground wires... it is the braided mess coming out of the hole at the bottom. This is a 40 year old home so all the ground wires are small and were originally braided together when they came out of the wall into the original fuse box.

Here are the grounds coming from the house as you request.

I have been out of town on work and not able to do any more with this. I do have a bonding the screw to use. Also, just found out the electrician that has not returned my call is in the hospital, so not a good time to talk to him. I can post more pics if I get the chance to work with it this week. Right above this box is the meter, is there a possibility of it being bonded there?

As far as the directory, I haven't gone through the switches to see what's what yet. I intended to do that right after the install, but got rained out. So I don't have a directory just yet.

The neutral and ground do not appear to be bonded

Take a closer look (and attach pictures for us) at the places I've circled in red below

On the right, it appears there's a green screw. According to the drawing, this makes sense, as it serves to bond the enclosure to the ground. It's marked on the drawings as "Bonded." It likely came from the factory like this.

On the left, there appears to be a hole for a bonding screw, but no screw is present. Accordingly, the drawing marks it as "Bond when required." To me, this indicates that the panel can be used as a main service panel when a screw is threaded through the hole in the lug and makes good electrical contact with the enclosure metal. Without this screw, the neutral and ground would be separate in this panel.

It also seems likely that they are not bonded because the there are no green or bare wires going to the left (neutral) busbar, and similarly, only green or bare wires seem to go to the right (ground) busbar.

Unrelated, but I am confused by the utter lack of ground wires anywhere, except the one going off into the knockout on the right and the large, twisted bundle. Do you know what kind of wiring you have in your house? Is everything in conduit or on metallic-clad cables? I'm just curious.


Is there such a thing? Wall access panel with a water shutoff -> so I can turn off water to outside spigot in the winter? Im looking to see if such thing exists.

Nice looking wall access panel with a shutoff ball valve inside -> so I can turn off water to outside spigot in the winter?

You want to install a freeze-, frost-proof silcock. That will allow you to turn the water off from outside, while eliminating water sitting outside the conditioned space of the home.

They are available in many different lengths, so they fit most applications.


3-way switch tied to box, one switch removed, can't make sense of it I'm starting the question over.I'm having a hard time making sense of what's going on and I found out the other switch wasn't removed.

I have a light connected to two switches. One switch isn't really used any more and I thought it was removed but after removing the boxes in front of it I saw the switch is still there. (There was a blank switch next to it that I felt when I reached behind the boxes.)

On one end there was a 3 way switch that had an outlet on the bottom that switched on and off with the switch. Next to it was an ungrounded outlet that was wired to the switch as shown and was always hot.

I want to replace the switch with a regular 3-way switch that doesn't have an outlet and I want to replace the ungrounded receptacle with a GFCI receptacle. I also want to remove that connection where the terminal with white wires is connected to the metal box. I don't mind if I have to disconnect the switch that was behind the boxes. (I thought it was already gone.)

I tried wiring it up, minus the wire to ground and it didn't work. Tried with non GFCI outlet and same thing. The light would come on but not fully bright. When I connected the wire back to ground the light comes on full.

I took some readings from the wire feeding the switch/outlet I'm replacing. The wire is very old, dirty cloth wrapped wire, I may have the colors wrong but I've been consistent in what I'm calling them.

To Ground:

Red 4.5v
Black: 110v
White: 14v

Also:

Red to Black: 112.8v
Black to White: 85.2v
White to Red: 23.7v

The other switch is still there I took some pictures of what I saw. I should have checked here first. Looks like this is where the power comes in and this is probably a better place to tap for always on power which I might have to do. (Already ran conduit and wire to other location. :( )

This is as best I can figure out what everything is. The cloth wrapped wire on the back wall switch (no outlet) looks newer. I can clearly make out the colors. The other switch the cloth is black but that might be due to other things.

I made some progress. I connected the GFCI outlet in the back wall box that had the single switch. I grounded it to the box and outlet tester showed up fine. GFCI tested fine. I ran wires up through conduit from the GFCI bottom screws up to the ceiling for a garage door opener and that tripped fine using the tester too.

I put a new 3-way switch in the front that used to have the switch/outlet and second outlet with the bootleg ground. I removed the ground and the switches are working fine. Not sure if there's a way to connect an outlet to that switch. I'd like to get some power there even if it's switched. I got power but only partial voltage. Not sure what was up with that.

This picture shows where I am now.

Garage door opener works fine. Light switches on and off properly from both locations. I got rid of the bootleg ground at the front switch. I can leave things as is but would like power at the front switch if anyone has any ideas.

Going three-way with a relay

In order to have a normal three-way switch between the two locations and have receptacles at the far end, you need four wires (plus ground): a hot, two travelers or a traveler and a switched-hot, and a neutral.  Since you only have three wires, and can't really replace the cable between the two boxes, you need to do something else here, as the way it was working (using the bootleg jumper to use AC armor as a neutral) was shockingly bad.

There is an alternative though -- a device called a relay, which acts as a switch that can be remotely controlled by an electrical signal.  In particular, we'll be using a RIBU1C from Functional Devices: this is a SPDT relay that can be controlled using either 24VAC from a transformer or 120VAC from the wall, using an on-off signal to determine which position the relay is in.  Thus, we can use the SPDT contacts of the relay as a 3-way switch that's controlled remotely by a single-pole switch somewhere else, using only an always-hot to the switch and a switched-hot control wire.

In your case, I would install the relay at the far-end box (where neutral is present), then repurpose the wires in the existing /3 AC cable as follows:

Black -- always-hot.  Leave it as is.
Red -- relay control feed. Leave it attached to the near-end 3-way switch, but unhook it from the far-end 3-way switch, as we'll need it when we install the relay.
White -- neutral.  Connect it to neutral at the far-end box, and to the receptacle neutral at the near-end box, unhooking it from the 3-way switches at both ends.

This means that with the bootleg jumper gone from the near-end box, we now have a situation where the 3-way switch is acting as a single pole switch, so that it can turn the relay coil on and off.  Once all this is done, the far-end box is fitted with a RIBU1C (mounted to a 1/2" KO on the box somewhere), and the RIBU1C is wired as follows:

White/Black -- to the Red wire from the /3 cable
White/Yellow -- to the neutral wires in the far-end box
White/Blue -- capped off (unused)
Blue -- to one traveller screw on the far-end 3-way switch
Orange -- to the other traveller screw on the far-end 3-way switch
Yellow -- to the always-hot wires in the far-end box

As to the ground at the near-end box? The armored cable's armor provides something of a grounding path -- old armored cable is no longer current Code in this regard, but it's better than no path at all, and if it's type AC with a "bonding strip" wire under the armor, then it is fully Code-compliant  as-is.


How to remove label from sink without damaging the sink? Can a label like this be removed without damaging the porcelain? Should I use a razor? Can it even be removed without damaging the sink?
This thing is over a millimeter thick. I think it's plastic.

If you can get under an edge of that label, try sawing it off with some dental floss. You'll still have a stick residue to deal with, but there are products that can remove that without leaving a mess.


How to create a hidden plug for PVC pipe I'm working on building a semi-permanent set of full-size soccer goals.  Full-size in this case means 6' x 18'.  Because of the size and spans, I'm planning on using 1.5" PVC pipe and fittings.  And in order to help keep the goals from tipping over from strong winds, I plan on adding 25-50 lbs of sand in the base support tube for each goal.

While not to size, this picture gives a good idea of the general layout for the goals.

The sand will go in the longer, horizontal pipe that is on the ground.

Normally, this would be a fairly straightforward project.  The challenge is that I want to make sure the sand remains in the bottom pipe.  Unfortunately, I can't rely upon the wonderfully consistent draw of gravity as the goals are meant to be taken apart and taken off of the field during the winter.  And I don't want the sand spilling out when the goals are disassembled.

The goals are meant to last for at least 5-10 years, and the hope is that by storing them during the winter they'll have a better chance at lasting that long.  I'll be disassembling the goals the first few years, but will eventually pass that task along to someone else.

My initial thought had been to install a concealed plug of some sort on the inside of the  pipe.  So after adding the sand to the bottom pipe, I would plug it and keep the sand from getting out.  I added a red line to this example image to give a better idea.

My problem is that I couldn't find anything at the local hardware store that would serve as an inline plug like that.  I checked a number of fittings from other pipe dimensions, but they weren't fitting.

My question(s):

Are there any general guidelines for knowing which pipes or fittings can slip inside a different dimension of pipe.  For example, is the outer diameter of a 1" fitting supposed to fit within the inside diameter of a 1.5" pipe?

If so, what type or size of fitting should I look at in order to create this interior plug?

Is there a better approach to solving this type of a problem?  Would a different type of material slip inside of the 1.5" pipe more readily / consistently?

Given all the  ideas, the obvious solution would seem to be don't use sand.

Instead, fill the bottom pipe with cement.  Or fill it mostly with gravel with a few inches of cement or silicone sealant to hold the gravel in place.


It is reasonable to expect a contractor to replace the last foot of HVAC duct work, the connection between the insulated duct and the register? The contract was to replace an antiquated HVAC and duct work. Since the registers are a standard size, would this connection also be a standard pre-fabricated part?
What is that last connection called?

I believe it's called a "boot", and yes, they're generally pre-fabricated.

However, if the existing ones are in good shape, they shouldn't need replacing.  If they're damaged, then the reasonableness depends on what your contract says.


How can I safely extend a wire in my electrical panel? I need to move some breakers (and attached wires) from the upper part of my electrical panel to the lower part but the wires I need to move aren't long enough to reach their new location.

Is it safe and legal/to code to pigtail a little piece of extension wire in the panel? I know that to make any kind of junction you have to do it in a box, so does the panel count towards 'being in a box'?

You should check with your local inspection agency.

Different locales use different revisions of the code. They also may have their own addenda to the NEC. Furthermore, inspector interprets the code differently.

With all that in mind:

It looks like 312.8 is the relevant section of the NEC.
Mike Holt seems certain that wire nuts in breaker panels are OK. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHi42Gzydh0


My Closet Smells Like Sewer - How To Fix? My Closet smells bad.  It's coming from this PVC pipe at the bottom of it.

The cap on the end is easy to remove.  Inside, it looks like a pipe and I can see some clean water flowing through it (though it looks a bit odd in the picture)

My question is - how do I fix this?  Is it as simple as sealing off the opening with some caulk or similar?  Or does this indicate a failure somewhere else in the plumbing system and is merely a symptom of something I need to fix elsewhere?

It's normal to smell gas in the plumbing downstream of any water trap. The trap provides a plug to prevent the gas from entering living space, but it's free to roam elsewhere, including out the vents on your roof.

You may be able to simply tighten the cleanout plug enough to get it to self-seal. Use the back of a ChannelLock, adjustable wrench, or large open-end wrench inside the slot to get good torque.

Otherwise, use thread paste or PTFE tape (3-5 wraps in the correct direction) to provide a better seal. I wouldn't use caulk, as it makes a mess and isn't reusable.


Exposed nails in new garage I'm having a garage built without drywall.  There are a lot of nails protruding from the inside of the OSB board.  i.e. Lots of missed nail-gun nails.  Is there any code or requirement for these nails sticking out beside very poor workmanship?  And what is the best way to cut them off without disturbing the sheathing or wrap?

We call those "shiners" and it happens to the best of them (although having them "all over" is indeed a bad sign).

The best tool, because it can reach into stud/rafter bays, cuts nearly flush, and is the tool least likely to cause damage, is an end nipper:


Completing a prior subpanel install I recently bought a home built in 2007. I had the chance to meet with the original homeowner who shown me some of the things that were on his list to finish before he sold the house but never got the chance. One of the things was the completion of a 100 amp subpanel in an outbuilding I will use as a shop. Eventually I will add another 40 amp subpanel that will come off the 100 amp subpanel in the shop, to go to a nearby barn in the future.

What he has set up already is a 100 amp  double pole circuit breaker in the main panel. I had no idea where it terminated at until he shown me a J box on the back of the house, which it was not tied into yet, but it was in the wall. It just needed to be brought out, so I did. I tested it to make sure the breaker operated that cable. All good so far.

The shop has a wire ran in ground that can handle the load also. It was coiled in the crawlspace, so I brought it out through the wall. The pic I have below is the pair I brought out.

What I am looking for in the picture is what type of weatherproof low profile box is out there that I can use to tie these into, preferably not using "bugs" that will take a ton of tape and what ever else is used to keep the cables from shorting out.

The cable from the breaker is going to enter the Jbox from the top, the one feeding the shop is going to exit out of the bottom.

Maybe it is expecting too much, but if there is a box that will recess into a 2X6 wall and leave room for insulation behind it and had enough cubic inches to handle the cable with out sticking out too far would be pretty cool. I imagine if there is such a thing, knowing the name of the Jbox would prove handy. I really want to stay away from a trough.

The next pic is of the subpanel itself. It has 3 lugs. I am figuring with the right name and a hopeful edit of my pic, that the ground wire can be sorted out too.

I figure, but I would like confirmation, that the new lug for the ground can be screwed or bolted to the back of the box and tie it in there.
The biggest cables are 1/0, I can't remember the size of the ground wire...

Then again, I may need to get a different panel for the shop, and use this for the future barn. I hope this one works, only because it will save a trip.

Thanks guys.

First thing I would do it get a larger sub-panel. Those dinky 6/12 panels are terrible for space and future expansion. You also need a means of disconnect at the outbuilding. I would get a 20 space main breaker panel which would correct both of these issues.

In the sub-panel you would also need to install a grounding bar to the back of the panel box and NOT install the bonding screw. The green wire would terminate there as well as the required grounding electrode (ground rod typically) conductor.

At the house you MUST protect that URD cable where it is exposed. Typically we'd use Sch80 PVC conduit. For the splice you can/should use Polaris connectors. They are available at any electrical supply house or even some home centers. They make larger aluminum wire splices a breeze!

There are a LOT of other code requirements for a job like this. Are you experienced enough to tackle this job?


Mold in utility closet - how bad does it look? I'm a buyer looking to soon close on a highrise condo, built in 2005.

I did an home inspection today and the inspector reported that the water heater doesn't work & leaking, and there's a mold around the heater in the utility closet.

Looking for a second opinion here for how bad the damage look and if it's required for me to get a professional to clean it up. Can't really tell how serious it is based on the inspector responses.

Is mold around water heaters is a common issue and not that serious?

From the photos the mold really is not that bad and there are several house hold chemicals that can kill it. Every one usually knows about bleach diluted with water. Another is hydrogen peroxide. There are products that can be purchased and sprayed on like mold be gone. I would spray it with one of the above solutions prior to removing the water heater and once it is out really clean it well.


How can I install an electric dryer using the old air conditioning circuit in my breaker box I disconnected my central air conditioning unit and I was wondering if it is possible for me to hook up my electric dryer using the circuit breaker that my air conditioning was using.

In answer to you question - It is not possible to use any circuit in the panel you are showing unless you want completely replace the AC circuit. I am assuming the 20A 2 pole circuit in the lower right is your AC circuit. Regardless, all of the circuits shown are 20A.

NEC Article 220.14 (B) and (C) prevent you from using a 20A circuit for a dryer load. 220.14 (B) refers you to 220.54 which states all dryer circuits need to be rated for 5000VA, that would be 20.9A at 240V. 220.14 (C) refers you to motor loads which state you have to add 25% for motor start up. So a minimum circuit size for a dryer would be 30A 2 pole with #10 wire conductors.

Hope this helps.


Are sheet metal screws required for connecting round duct branches? I've finished dry-fitting a new branch (6-inch round) from the main furnace duct to a new register.  I've supported each section of duct with metal strap and have begun taping all connections with foil tape.  The tape and strap seems quite sufficient to hold everything together.  Are screws required for every junction?  The other branches in this (older) home are screws-only; no tape.

Yes, now a days screws and a sealant of some sort are required. Use aluminum tape, not the gray plastic crap with cloth backing, it falls apart in a few years. There are brush on sealants also.


KItchen backsplash tile cut too short and grout line too thick I just had my back splash installed in my kitchen and the tiler cut one section a bit too short. The grout went up today and the area is thicker then any other areas and very noticeable especially with a dark countertop. Unfortunately it is an area where there would be no appliance in front of it to hide.

Is there any way this can be fixed? Is it possible to remove the grout and put little pieces of tile in that section. I think that would be less noticeable then how it is right now. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also...I notice the tile is not as shiny as it was before the grout...do I have to wash it after the grout fully dries? I wanted to attach photos but they said to large to do so and I have no idea how to make smaller :)

The only right way is to pop those tiles off and reinstall them with a better fit. Any attempt to conceal the poor workmanship will look tacky.

In my opinion, the installer should handle this for you. A cut end should always have a matching or smaller grout line for just this reason.


Do Silent Condensate Pumps for Air Conditioners exist? I need to install a Condensate Pump in a new A/C in a bedroom, and there is no choice but to pump the condensate up to a drain on the roof.

The A/C technicians have told me about different types of condensate pumps, but they all seem to make an audible sound on regular basis when the pumping action kicks in, and even though the pumps would be on the outside of the wall of the bedroom, they will be right next to a window that will be next to a bed, so my fear is that the regular sound of the pump will be just loud enough to drive me insane as I wait for the next pumping round to kick in, and the next, and the next...

So I was wondering if there are any silent condensate pumps on the market that are also reliable and that will last for years without requiring maintenance.

Any ideas?

Short answer. In my experience as an HVAC technician:

There is no completely silent condensate pump on the market that Me or my Suppliers are aware of. If there was, everyone would be buying them.

There are however certain pumps on the market that are designed to take into consideration sound level. The quietest pump i have ever come across is the DiversiTech ClearVue Condensate Pump. They have great build quality along with all DiversiTech products, and also has a built in alarm and over flow sensor that can be wired into your HVAC system to stop operation of the air conditioner if there ever is a blockage in the discharge line, or if the pump should fail for whatever reason.


How can I prevent my clothes dryer door from fogging up? When I turn the air conditioning on in my house, the inside of the window in the clothes dryer door fogs up. Also, if clothes are left in the dryer, they become slightly damp again. How can I prevent this?
The dryer vent consists of:

~9 ft. of 4" rigid pipe.

One 90° elbow.

2 ft. length of Semi-Rigid duct.

One louvered vent hood.

All seams are sealed using foil tape

I went through this recently with my girlfriends dryer.   Here is what I learned:

Her outside vent hood seeped rainwater, not much but enough
Her ductwork had a tiny amount of lint which soaked up the rainwater
Her “outside air” ducting for the all-electric central heat and air system damper didn’t open all the way causing the air to be drawn from and through the dryer ducting.   The moisture in the ductwork lint was drawn into the clothing left in the dryer.   (Her house is new and sealed very tightly!)

An additional clue something wasn’t right was indicated by the exterior vent for her kitchen cook stove - it “rattled” when the air conditioner ran!

Solution:

Replaced the dryer ductwork and exterior vent.
Disassembled dryer and cleaned entire dryer ductwork path
Cleaned the central air exterior air feeder pipe, cleaned the exterior dampener
Replaced furnace filter.
Cleaned a/c condensate pipe (ran hose water through it until it was no longer
draining “green” water)
Fixed her supper on the Weber charcoal grill.

She is happy now.  The dryer no longer “stinks” from the “wet lint” smell, her clothes remain dry and her air conditioner is working better.


Can an outlet be installed in the blank door panel in front of a sink? According to the code what does it say about a receptacle outlet installed on a kitchen sink drawer? Can you do it or not? The panel is assumed to be fake.

It's no more wrong than an outlet in any permanent cabinetry.  Which is to say, not.

However, it seems rather useless. Kitchen appliances have cords only 2 feet long.  I do not see how you could make any use of it without draping cords across the sink, the very thing Code seeks to avoid!

As far as Code requirements to have kitchen counter receptacles within 24" of any counter space, this outlet won't meet that requirement brcause its use is impracticable.  If cutting a hole in the counter for a flat-mount receptacle does not appeal, I would use a pendant dropped down from the ceiling.  Pendants are awesome.

As far as GFCI, do you really have to ask?  It is within 6 feet of a sink!  Of course the GFCI doesn't have to be right there; it can be a plain outlet protected by a GFCI somewhere else.


What can I do about high pressure water noise? I have for many years had loud noise that sounds like high pressure water rushing through the pipes. This happens whenever water is turned on in our villa and the duplex next door. The pressure outside our home is 92psi and inside 88psi. Plumbers have tried to fix this problem many times but now the pressure is higher and the noise louder. This has become very distressing and we need help. We live in a retirement village and the manager has refused to try and fix the problem any more. Please help us.

Your water pressure is very high - nearly double the average pressure.

The solution is very simple - install a pressure-reducing valve in the water main just after the meter and main shutoff valve. The valves are in the $100-$200 range from any commercial plumbing supplier (Home Depot probably doesn't have them).

However, this involves modifying the house utilities and is therefore definitely in the owner's domain. Both you and the neighbor will likely have to approach him together, unless you can do the job yourself without anyone noticing.


Will #2 copper THHN be sufficient cable to run to the subpanel? I have a 200 Amp Main panel.  I have an outbuilding 150 ft away in which I need to install a sub-panel.
I proposed to install a 200 amp sub-panel so if sometime in the future we choose to get a separate meter for the barn and increase the power supply.
I will have two 50amp breakers in the main feeding the sub-panel.  I do not have any heavy equipment in the barn just 2 door openers, LED lights and outlets for hand tools.

A few notes first
As you probably know, North American power is split-phase - it is 240V with neutral in the middle, giving 2 opposite poles or legs of 120V.  So if this has a 50A breaker, that means you have 120V @ 50A on one leg, and 120V @ 50A on the other leg.
So it's 50A worth of 240V... but 100A worth of 120V.
By the way, I assume you have one breaker which is double the normal width of a breaker.  It looks a lot like 2 breakers whose handles are tied, but it is in fact one breaker, and it has an internal "common trip" mechanism which is required for this application. So it must be 1 breaker, not 2 sandwiched.
Voltage drop and wire selection
The max you're allowed to plan to use is 80% of breaker trip.  So with a 50A breaker you could only plan to use 40A.  Your needs are much lower than that, given that, after all, we're talking two legs of 120V @ 40A each.    So we'll compute on 40A.
Calculating for 40A @ 240V, using #6 copper wire gives 2.21% voltage drop.  #4 aluminum wire gives 2.29% voltage drop.  Both are extremely acceptable; even the wire salesman considers these really good numbers.
Honestly, I don't normally even bother doing the calculations until it's farther than 180 feet.
Pro electricians wiring their own houses would use aluminum. There is some scary talk about aluminum out there, but it applied to a mistake in the 1960s trying to downscale power-line alloy aluminum for small circuit use (15-20A) relating to how the wire was landed on lugs (screw terminals and backstabs).  Aluminum terminations have to be managed more carefully, but doing that safely is super easy with large feeder like this.  Even 1960s-era aluminum feeder is considered safe; the new stuff is awesome.
Anyway, the panel lugs themselves are aluminum, because aluminum lugs are the universal donor - they play well with both copper and aluminum wire.  (that gives a hint as to the source of the above problem).
#2 copper would be insane overkill.  Do not buy #2 copper.  If you already have a 450' coil of #2 copper sitting around, sell it on eBay and use some of the profits to buy all the wire you'd need. Pocket the rest.
The #4 aluminum I recommend is about 1/7 the cost of #2 copper, e.g. the aluminum is $150 US vs $1000+.
If you really want to spend that much on wire, #2 copper is a bad choice because you are splitting the switch. It's far too big for your "few outlets" and far too small to carry the full 200A service from garage to house.  If you ever reversed flow so the service came into the garage, you'd have to replace all that #2.
If your aim is to put in "the ultimate" wire once, and never trench again, well we recommend conduit for the "never trench again" part... but that aside, I would lay 250 kcmil aluminum.  It's good for 225A service, will handle 200A without worry for voltage drop issues, and it's still much less than #2 copper.


Can I create an outlet from patio light but always powered on I am trying to provide an main source for security system. I don't have any socket outside but I do have lights. Could it be possible to construct an outlet or drive a main from this lights so that I can power security system. I am thinking of enclosing this outlet/main wires in some kind of casing to prevent it from rain. Thanks.

Chances are you only have a switched hot at the light location. You'd be able to eliminate the switch and splice the the wires so the lights would always be on and then install a photocell or timer at the first light location to control them. If your electrical system is in conduit, you'd be able to add a wire from your switch to your box location that would give you an always hot. If your system is NB cable from your switch to the light box, you could replace the run with a 12/3 cable so you'd have a switched hot and an always hot. Yes, you would need waterproof boxes.


How do I shift a door's latch hole and strike plate up or down half an inch? I have a few interior doors that do not latch closed because the bolting mechanism and latch hole are vertically misaligned. If I remove the strike plate I can extend the size of the latch hole, but then one of the screw holes of the strike plate ends up over the (now bigger) latch hole and the screw won't hold.

(Note: I don't want to move the door hinges since the doors align nicely in the casings.)

If you can, glue a plug into the latch hole and similarly drill out the existing screw holes with a 1/4" bit and glue plugs of 1/4" dowel into them.

Now you have a blank slate to re-locate the strike plate wherever you want to.  Use a spade bit for the latch hole (3/4" or 7/8" or 1" - use the whatever is closest to the size of the strikeplate hole).


Add a light switch to an existing switched outlet? I have an existing switch that only controls one outlet. The switch is in a single gang box and has one white wire and one black wire connected to it, plus ground. No other wires are in the switch box. I believe based on this that the power source is at the outlet? I wish to add a second switch next this switch (making it a 2 gang box) to control recessed lighting. Is it possible to leave the original switch controlling the switched outlet but also to take power from the associated white and black wire for the new light switch? If not, what recommendations do you have?

Thanks

It is not possible to power a recessed light from the existing switch box. There is no neutral in this box, but only a line hot (always hot from the box for the existing receptacle) and a switched hot going to the existing receptacle.

The white wire in the switch box is not a neutral, but instead is being used to carry either the line hot or the switched hot from the switch to the receptacle.

Our tract house is wired this way and we have lamps plugged into the switched receptacle in each bedroom. I have considered getting a plug-in wall mounted lamp in one room (to replace a floor lamp) but haven't done it yet.


Should my ground-level package unit have a condensate drain trap? I recently got a new package unit installed to replace the 30-year-old one that came with the house. It works MUCH better than the old one, which had a slow leak and iced up regularly.
I noticed that the condensate drain drips straight out onto the pad. Should there be a trap here?
The round hole on the left has a standard pipe fitting inside, and currently it is just dripping straight down.
How bad is it to leave it like this? This Bryant system has the coils positioned before the blower, so presumably the drain is under suction when the unit is running. Fortunately, it doesn't run all the time.

The drainage is normal and you want it to drain. Some units are quite sensitive to blockage and a trap will prevent the condensate from getting out. This drainage is quite normal.
I would not worry as just about every unit has a drain of some type - most just like yours.


Does this 3-Way Wiring Violate 300.3(b)? I see NEC 300.3(b) coming up quite a lot in discussions about neutral wires and smart switches. I'm looking at a 3-way configuration I have now with analog switches and how I can properly modify it to support smart switches, but I'm not sure the current configuration even complies with 300.3b to begin with. Note none of the other 3-way switches in my house are like this:

P = power source.
Question 1
Doesn't the fact that the C-D conduit carries lamp 5's power source (plus travelers) but not its neutral violate 300.3b? Or if I'm wrong, how am I misunderstanding that section?
Question 2
If I were to change the configuration to the following, would that cure the code issue, assuming there is one? Or is this improperly "stealing" a neutral from the "other devices" to power my smart switches? Does the fact that Lamp 5's return doesn't go through any conduit carrying its switched power source just screw me?

(FYI these are GE Embrighten switches - S5 would be the main switch, S5AO would be the add on). Everything is on the same circuit.

No, you're actually fine on that front here
The C-D conduit meets 300.3(B) despite not having a neutral in it for the same reason old-style switch loops were compliant with that rule: all the power is coming back via the same wiring path it went to the switch on.  In other words, current in on the hot = current out on one of the two travelers, which are both in the same conduit as the hot wire, thus there is no issue with a stray loop.
However, there's no need for the gymnastics with the neutral to the add-on switch
However, your plan does something rather needless by running neutral all the way from the main switch's neutral terminal to the add-on switch.  Instead, you can simply tap the neutral connection for the add-on switch off at the light fixture box instead by nutting the white wire from C in with the rest of the neutrals there.
This also is a chance to fix the Code issue that does exist with the current wiring
There is one problem with the existing wiring though, and it has nothing to do with improper wiring loops, but with color.  You see, the reason you're permitted to remark a white wire in a cable as a hot is because you can't get cables with arbitrary-colored wires in them without going to great length and expense to have them custom-made for you.  However, that's not an issue in conduit jobs, where the electrician gets to choose which wires and colors to run when they pull the wire through.
As a result, that white traveler wire violates NEC 200.7(C) point 1 in two ways:

(C) Circuits of 50 Volts or More. The use of insulation that is
white or gray or that has three continuous white or gray stripes
for other than a grounded conductor for circuits of 50 volts or
more shall be permitted only as in (1) and (2).
(1) If part of a cable assembly that has the insulation permanently reidentified to indicate its use as an ungrounded
conductor by marking tape, painting, or other effective
means at its termination and at each location where the
conductor is visible and accessible. Identification shall
encircle the insulation and shall be a color other than
white, gray, or green. If used for single-pole, 3-way or
4-way switch loops, the reidentified conductor with white
or gray insulation or three continuous white or gray
stripes shall be used only for the supply to the switch, but
not as a return conductor from the switch to the outlet.

Since you're turning the white wire in C-D into a neutral, and already have a neutral in the A-B conduit, you can simply remove the extra white wire from the conduit (slowly and carefully!), or abandon it in place by capping it off at both ends if you'd rather not fuss with it at this point.


Problems with electrical outlet I am having a lot of problems with the voltage where I live, having both brownouts and surges. One of the receptacles started to smoke so I replaced it. What I noticed was that contrary to other outlets in the house, this one has two black and two white wires but I did not find a ground wire. What I did find were two additional black wires taped together at the back of the outlet. After I replaced the receptacle I decided to install a surge protector. It has two green lights. One says Protected and the other Grounded. Of course, it is not grounded. Could one of those two black wires in the back be a ground wire? Why are there two? Why would someone just twist them together like that? How can I know for sure? I have a voltage tester and those two black wires seem to have current.

I am having a lot of problems with the voltage where I live, having both brownouts and surges.

That could be a couple of different things at once.  Or it could be the same actual thing.

Manassehkatz has floated the theory that both these things could be a lost neutral. That is a very serious defect that causes your two legs of power to "teeter-totter", one below 120V and the other above 120V, (but together adding up to 240V).  This alone would explain both brownouts and loss of equipment due to excessive voltage (which you can call "surges" if you really want to).  A lost neutral puts the two "legs" of service into a tug-of-war, the pulling force is based on current drawn on that leg.  The heavier draw leg gets the lower voltage.

The way to spot a lost neutral is notice when voltage is far askew of 120V, and then, turn on a big load like a heater, hair dryer or microwave that's on a different circuit.  If the number moves more than a volt or two, you have a lost neutral.

A lost neutral is a genuine, bona-fide power outage. Contact the power company and tell them you have a power outage.  If they ask you kindergarten-tier questions like "do your lights work", give them kindergarten-tier answers that tell them to roll the truck, like "No, they do not work" (properly, but keep that to yourself).  Power company operators are trained to make you go away, or to be more precise, solve your problem without rolling a truck.

  One of the receptacles started to smoke so I replaced it.

That wouldn't be caused by a lost neutral. That's caused by loose blades in a worn out socket, or poor wire connections in the usual place (correctly used backstabs being the #1 culprit, poor torquing of screws being the #2. NEC 2017 now requires you use a torque screwdriver, after science proved master electricians weren't any better at setting torque than their secretaries! Like literally, like not even 1% better.)

  What I noticed was that contrary to other outlets in the house, this one has two black and two white wires but I did not find a ground wire. What I did find were two additional black wires taped together at the back of the outlet.

And you leave that the heck alone.  You are in a dangerous place right now. You know a tiny little bit about wiring.  And you've developed a sophomoric tendency to "look down upon" the work of others.  When you see techniques you are not familiar with, you think "that's a defect".  Don't count on it.

While you will surely find bad work, most of the time it will be proper technique that is new to you.

  After I replaced the receptacle I decided to install a surge protector. It has two green lights. One says Protected and the other Grounded. Of course, it is not grounded.

Don't be so sure.  Many wiring methods ground via the metal box and the conduit or armored cable.  I have four buildings with EMT conduit in them. There is not a ground wire in any of the buildings.  I own 10 reels of #12 THHN wire, and none of it is green. Yet our grounds are tip-top, and have been put to the test!

Switches can ground through their mounting screws.  Receps can ground through their mounting screws if certain rules are followed.  Otherwise, look for a hole in the back of the junction box tapped #10-32 (sometime it's being used by a nail or screw). Stick a 10-32 ground screw there, and pigtail that to the recep.

So look closely at your installation. Especially given the dissimilar number of black and white wires, I suspect your installation is conduit of one kind or another.

  Could one of those two black wires in the back be a ground wire?

Absolutely not. Grounds are green, yellow-green or bare, except in the former Soviet bloc, and they too have harmonized on yellow-green.

  Why are there two? Why would someone just twist them together like that? How can I know for sure? I have a voltage tester and those two black wires seem to have current.

Those wires are passing through, on their way to doing some other important job that doesn't involve this socket.  If you mess with them, you will find out why, because it will stop working! LOL!

Wires passing by in the back of a junction box is something  you'll see a whole lot of, in any wiring method.  They should never be dismantled, especially not at the same time as everything else!  Everyone thinks they can put it back the way they found it, and everyone is wrong.  Allowing for curious noobs is why I use 10 colors of wire.  In my boxes, purple always goes to purple!


Is it a good idea to separate switch for recess lights and chandelier in living room? I am just asking in general. I have 8 recessed lights to install and 1 chandelier in the center. There will be plenty of light so I can turn on just the recessed light and/or chandelier. The chandelier by itself won't do much in term of lighting but for decoration.

Should I separate the light switch for recess lights vs. chandelier? What is the typical "practice"?

It is totally normal to install two groups of lights in one room with separate switches. If you do that then you also have the option to install, now or at a later time, a dimmer and/or timer on each set separately. This is particularly useful for chandeliers vs. other lighting in order to set just the right "mood" for a room - e.g., full brightness on everything for reading, playing games, etc. vs. dim chandelier by itself for the equivalent of a candlelit dinner.

If you install everything on one switch now then unless you run separate wires for each group of lights (i.e., two sets of wires going to one switch), you would need to run new wires later on to separate for dimming or timers. And if you are already running separate wires, a second ordinary switch now is very simple & inexpensive.


What are some options for a small electric water flow control valve? I'm looking for an electric water valve for a DIY project. I need to be able to close it partially so as to control the water flow rate. The exact details of how to control it are not important; I'm sure I can build the necessary circuitry.

Could someone please recommend one?

The only valves I find are either huge industrial valves or unbelievably expensive (£500+) lab valves.

What you're looking for is called a proportional valve and they're typically not cheap.  Here's a series that should do what you want from ASCO, and I was able to find it for sale online for US$316 (as of today).  I'm not sure if that price includes the PWM controller module or not, or how necessary that module is.


generator transfer switch install question I recently purchased a 6000 watt portable generator and need to install a transfer switch. The problem is my meter can and Service Entrance panel are back to back and the Service Entrance panel is flush mounted in drywall in my attached garage. All of the installation videos that I have watched show the SE panel being surface mounted or in an open wall.Is it possible to mount the 3 prong generator cord connector box to the meter can and run the wires through the meter can to the SE panel and then how would I interface the surface mount transfer switch to the flush mount SE panel?

No, you shouldn't feed load side equipment through the meter enclosure.

As an option, most panel manufacturers make a generator lock out slide that attaches to the panel and doesn't allow the main and generator breaker to be on at the same time. It is a simple piece of stamped steel but you panel dead-front must be modified to attach it.

In this setup, the generator breaker must be the top right or left (depending on the panel manufacturer) breaker.

Return the transfer switch and save some money.

Good luck and be careful!


How do I remove polyurethane spray foam from my hands? I should have worn gloves but sadly I didn't. Now I have yellow stuff all over my hands. I got most of the stickiness to go away by using WD-40. Is there anything that will get this off without giving me chemical burns?

Without looking, I think most of these adhesive foams dissolve with acetone. The first thing I'd try would be nail polish remover, or possibly Goof Off.


Broken door jamb - What's the easiest way to fix this? My screen door arm bracket started pulling off of the door jamb. Unfortunately, it was a few days before I noticed, so I've already lost one corner of the bracket (I plan to replace the bracket, because it's also a bit bent up). More unfortunately, it pulled out because the area behind the bracket is pretty chewed up, something which only came to light after this happened.

I know that there are putties that are used to fill a gap in wood, but I'm also given to understand that they're generally not great to try to screw things into since they have no particular anchor to the wood around them. Is there a better solution, maybe filling in the area, then nailing a piece of wood over it to provide a more solid anchor?

You should drill out the hole with a large drill bit and glue in a wooden plug. Then you can drill a pilot hole into that and screw the bracket into that.

Toothpicks will work in the short term but if they are not glued then they will pull out pretty soon. Drilling out the chewed out wood and glueing in a plug will create a new place for screws to bite into.

I would also suggest going for longer screw and making sure that they attach firmly to the wall rather than just the door trim.


My dryer quit and I am getting a strange power reading at the outlet I have a 3 prong plug for my dryer. When I take a voltage reading between X and Y I am getting 320VAC. Between X and W or between y and W I am getting 160VAC, and my dryer has quit running. Can you give me an Idea what would cause the odd voltage?

The readings you are getting are entirely correct.  The problem is that you are misinterpreting the results.  When we speak of AC voltages there are several types of measurements that may be taken.  Specifically of interest here are:

1) Peak voltage
2) RMS voltage

If you want to dig into the theory of this please see:

RMS Calculations

But the bottom line is that the relationship for a SINE WAVE is:

Vrms = Vpeak * 0.707

In your case you measured a PEAK value of 320V/160V.  If we convert to RMS we get:

320 * 0.707 = 226V
160 * 0.707 = 113V

These values are slightly low but well within the "normal" range of AC mains voltages.  The specification at the point of usage is 105%-90% of the 240/120 nominal which means that the H-H line should be above 216V and the H-N lines should be above 108V.

More on that here:

Voltage Range


2 circuits connected in one box? I'm swapping out outlets and this one has me stumped. This is in a room of switched outlets (top outlet is always hot, bottom is switched) so the red/black side tab on each outlet is broken off. The white side is not.

I was working on this outlet which is a bit of a mess. There are 3 whites, 2 reds, 3 blacks.

I've been getting in the habit of switching the wires out one-for-one, so I first take off the blacks, put them on the new outlet, then the reds, etc, so I can replicate the original wiring.

What has me stumped here is that I appear to have two separate circuits connected together in the same box.

Here's a shot of the 'leftover' tips of the white wires in the old outlet:

as you can see they were all connected to one side and the tab was not broken. Am I correct in assuming this is essentially a pigtail (all wires connected together)?

Because what is confusing is...

...of the 3 whites you see coming out of the box, the leftmost and rightmost are 'hot' on two separate circuits. The center is not (so I assume this is a branch line to other outlets).

Does it make sense that I'd have two circuits coming into one outlet joined together like this?

Am I okay connecting these together on the new outlet or do I have some serious wiring issues here?

I should clarify the '2 circuit' issue. I have to turn off two separate circuit breakers to make sure all the lines are dead in this outlet. I've also found a second outlet (in the same room) wired up the same way--I need to kill two circuit breakers to make sure the hot wires are off.

It just seems like you have two 3-wire cables (with constant and switched hots) going into and out of that box, along with a 2-wire constant feed. It's not two circuits. The reds are switched and the blacks are constant hot.

IMO I would pigtail each color and use the side screws on the receptacle just like they were before.

That looks like #12 so you can no longer use the backstab/quickwire holes in the back of receptacles (in the US at least).


Attaching washing machine hose to two closely-positioned valves In my new apartment, I have the following washing machine valves installed:

And this is how my hose attachment looks like:

The problem is that the hose cannot be attached to the right valve, because the two valves are very tightly positioned relatively to each other. This makes the hose impossible to fit in.

How can I get around this? Is there any metal, right-angle extension I could buy and extend the right valve with? Or maybe an extension to be used on the hose itself?

If the upper valve is installed with a threaded or compression fitting, you should be able to rotate it counterclockwise a bit to create clearance. If you provide more detail we can give more specific instructions.

Otherwise, take your washer hose (or some good photos and measurements) to your local hardware store and purchase a short flexible hose extension.


Two Poles Three Black Wires and One White - Convert to 120 V Outlets I have a two pole breaker with three black wires and one white wire. The breaker is 50 amps. The three black wires are labeled "Load Power", and the white wire is labeled "Neutral".

Where an outlet used to be, there are three black wires and one green wire. This circuit used to power a hot tub.

Edit: Added photo of outlet box.

I no longer have the hot tub, and I would like to power regular 120 V (two or three prong outlets). Is it possible? How would I do the wiring?

If I cannot install regular 120 V outlets, what sort of outlet can I install? If it makes a difference, the outlet box is outdoors.

One of your three black wires is actually connected to the LOAD NEUTRAL terminal so you have two hots and one neutral. Unfortunately, whoever installed this used three black wires and apparently did not mark the neutral.

The wires can be used but you must replace the breaker. Putting a standard 15 or 20 amp outlet on a 50 amp breaker is highly dangerous and against code. You can use either a 240 volt (dual) 15 or 20 amp breaker with all three wires or cap off one of the hots and use a 120 volt (single) 15 or 20 amp breaker.

Two caveats: first, you need to identify the neutral wire and color the ends white, probably with white electrical tape. Second, the wire you have is too large diameter to connect to either the breaker or outlets. You’ll have to make pigtails using 12 AWG wire.

BTW, you currently have a GFCI breaker. You need GFCI protection on outdoor outlets. In my opinion, you’re better continuing to use a GFCI breaker since the outlet will be exposed to the weather and a GFCI outlet will have a short lifespan.


How to safely connect EU (220-240v) induction cooktop in the USA Is it possible to safely connect European made (for European market) Bosch Induction 2 burner cooktop, 3700w, 220-240v, 50/60Hz in the USA? Cooktop connection diagram comes in 3 wires: brown, blue and green/yellow. Is it safe to connect brown (EU) to black (US), blue (EU) to red (US) and green/yellow (EU) to green (US) or is there a better/safer way to wire it?

First, the US, most countries, and now all countries worldwide have harmonized on safety ground being  bare, green, or yellow w/ green stripe.   So that's easy. Done.
You will need a letter from Bosch either indicating approval by UL (or some other NRTL) or saying something that will satisfy your AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction). This will be required for your permitted work to pass inspection.  If you do the work unpermitted, then you are likely to have problems at sale time when the buyer's home inspector spots the alien range and asks questions. It will also be needed to defend your fire insurance should an incident arise which seems related.   Consequences for unpermitted work can be severe and have been known to blindside DIYers.
I know the paperwork seems like a lot of nonsense, but state law (NEC) and UL are surrogates for the interests of the fire insurer and mortgage lender. It is, after all, called "Underwriters' Laboratories". However your interests are served also by defining a "bright line" standard for which appliances and work are approved. Convoluted, dragged out, subjective lawsuits are expensive for both sides!
The upshot is that shipping electrical appliances across an ocean (unless it's the Indian Ocean) is usually a bad idea.
As far as the cabling, what's in your walls is a correct and modern 10/3 w/ground intended for a high-end home with a 30A circuit for a cooktop OR oven.  (it can't power a combo range-oven typically 40-50A).  Ovens need neutral for the oven light.  Ranges generally don't need it.  Euro ranges definitely don't need it. Simply cap it off and leave it for future use.
However I see a 12/2 NM-B "Romex" cable being used as an extension cord. That's right out. a) it's too small for a 30A circuit, b) it's not cordage (which needs to flex, so must be fine stranded wire), and c) the white wire is not marked to indicate its use as a hot.  That marking is especially important around novices, because wouldn't it make sense to attach white to white?  If you use black-white-green cordage mark the white wire with red phase tape. Boom, it all makes sense!


LED not working on some sockets So I've gotten one of those wifibulbs that you can change the color through an app and all that.

My problem was that it works with table lamps and standing lamps but it doesn't with the hanging pendant (I guess that's how a room lamp is called?). The bulb comes with an e-27 end and it also has an e-14 adapter which I bought it for the pendant. I've tried the adapter and it works fine in one of my lamps, so it's not that.

Actually there are three hanging pendants, and I was going to use only one. I have used it 2 empty and one with a different bulb and by that I know it's not because of not using the three sockets.

I don't know what could be wrong, what do you think?

P.S all the rooms have those types of pendants.

I don't what could be wrong, what do you think?

I think it is probably incompatible with some other device on that circuit, such as a dimmer, a switch-locator or something else.

If this is the case it may be best to take/send the bulb back to the retailer and change it for a dimmer-compatible LED bulb.

It might be that your E27 to E14 adapter only makes proper contact when gravity is pushing the bulb into the adapter (standing upright) instead of pulling out away (hanging down)

If this is the case, I'd replace the E27 bulb with one that has an E14 fitting to match your ceiling fittings. Or change the ceiling fitting to one that takes E27 bulbs.


How should I retape an inside drywall corner when the wall is heavily textured? We just bought a house built in 1992 and need to retape the ceilings in some of the rooms where the ceilings are angled and the tape is coming loose. We have already removed the popcorn ceiling to do so.
The issue I foresee is that in some areas where the ceiling meets the walls, they need to be retaped - but the wall is very heavily textured.

Do we need to do something specific to repair this so we don't have an untaped corner?

Would it be smart to just finished the molding at the top that they didn't extend in to the living room to make the job "easier"?

If the tape on the wall is fine, one option is to cut the existing tape along the seam between the ceiling and the wall. Remove the half from the  ceiling as repair ceiling as needed.

Then, to finish, run a bead of caulk along the seam and paint.

Tape is always preferred, but I've used caulk for inside corners in lieu of tape many times and (knock on wood) it's worked just fine for me.


How can I prevent the nuts in my shelving from coming loose? So I got "creative" with these shelves I installed. Looking for ideas to keep these nuts from loosening. I considered just gluing them in but that would make it annoying in future if adjustments are required.

Thoughts?

I know they have nuts that specifically are supposed to not loosen but that requires me taking it apart more than I'd prefer.

Thanks

If you use a product known generically as anaerobic thread locker, you will prevent the rotation of the fastener unless it is done by a wrench. Locktite™ is one such brand name, although many other names abound. Do not use the red version, as it is nearly permanent, requiring application of intense heat to release. Blue is medium and holds well under vibration, while green is considered low strength. For your application, one would expect even green will work well, although in my experience it is rare to see it on the shelf. You can find threadlocker in red and blue at most auto parts stores and certainly in a well stocked hardware store.

Until I read the Loctite page, I wasn't aware there is also purple threadlock.

As noted in the text from the web site, use caution on selecting the product. The packaging/bottle color is not a good indication of the holding strength.


Vent now blows on thermostat A long story how this got this way but there's a house with two furnaces and two thermostats. One of the furnaces feeds a long hallway with the return vent at one end and four feeder vents evenly spaced in the ceiling from one end to the other. There are no windows at the return vent end so it gets cold back there while the other end seems fine cause there are windows.

One issue is that the thermostat for this side is directly below the second vent from the back of the house where the return vent is. Placing a thermometer there registers three or four degrees warmer than the back of the house by the return vent.

I'm not sure if it would be best to just remove the vent above the thermostat or maybe close this one down along with the next one closest to the return. I can't move the thermostat but to the wall on the other side of the hall. I don't want the front of the house vents pumping more heat just to warm up the back of the house and then the front of the house gets too hot.

I'm just perplexed at the moment and looking for suggestions.

Yes, play with closing the flaps of however many it takes. It really depends on who, how & when the ducts were installed, balance is the aim but the only thing that does get balanced (maybe) is what's in use at the time the system goes active.

In my house, I have to keep 2 vents closed year round & then heating & cooling seasons have to have additional & different vents opened or closed for fairly uniform temperatures.

If things level out for you with just the thermostat vent shut, then leave it that way or you can possibly go to a new vent whose fins blow the air to either side & never at the thermostat. Also, you might be able to move the thermostat out of the hallway altogether.


Is a conservatory considered living space? For the purposes of zoning, building and assessment, do towns typically consider conservatories to be living space?

(A conservatory is a glass walled enclosure attached to one side of a house with a patio-like floor. It is used for growing plants.)

The Code defines “Habitable Space” as, “A space in a building for living, sleeping, eating or cooking. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility spaces and similar spaces are not considered habitable spaces.” (See ICC R202)


What tests can I perform to figure out if a wire is my Grounding Electrode Conductor? As part of some investigation into the systems of the house I live in, I was looking at the grounding and bonding wiring for the house, as most of it is accessible from the basement utility room.

In particular, I found that there is a bare 6AWG wire that runs from the casing of an abandoned-in-place well in a cellar-space under the back yard, up to the ceiling, through the back foundation wall alongside the old water line from the wellhead equipment (all of which was abandoned in place as well), along the utility room ceiling, and off into a finished ceiling space in the basement, but in the right direction to be connected to the panel, which is located in the garage.  This wire is also connected through a tap splice of some sort to a second copper wire (which appears to be 10AWG or so?) that connects to a ground clamp on the cold water pipe system.

How can I verify that this wire is connected to what it appears to be connected to (aka the main panel in the garage)? I would like to use it as a place to tap retrofit equipment grounding conductors, as I should be able to reach down there from the range and especially the laundry equipment (dryer and washer) with relative ease, and there is also an improper (run to cold water pipe) retrofit ground wire on the furnace circuit that I would like to convert to a proper (albeit possibly redundant) retrofit ground wire.

Note that the furnace circuit is run in EMT for an unknown length, with metal boxes, so I do have effective access to both ends of that retrofit EGC.  Also, the electrical panel is flushmounted into a finished garage wall, so I have no access to that end of the purported GEC.

I was taught to step back and take a good look at what I was trying to accomplish. The two reasons for grounding are:

To limit voltages caused by lighting or by accidental contact of the supply conductors with conductors of higher voltage.
To stabilize the the voltage under normal operating conditions (which maintains the voltage at one level relative to ground, so that any equipment connected to the system will be subject only to that potential difference).

That's right out of the Handbook.

Personally I can't think of a better grounding electrode that a metal well pipe sunk over 30' in the ground, and even though some of the system is possibly not exactly code (the #10 ground) any ground is better than no ground. I think if I could verify that the grounding conductors that you mentioned were actually part of the grounding electrode conductors, then I would make any necessary corrections and use it. You are allowed to tie grounding electrode conductors together other than the panel so long as they maintain a single point of ground.

One final comment, reading and studying NEC Article 210 all these years, I believe that saying there is redundancy in the grounding system is from the department of redundancy department (joke).

Hope this helps and good luck.


furnace exhaust - move for renovation We are in the US. We have a 95% efficient furnace that exhausts to the house in a straight line from the furnace to the wall. We are building an extension to the house and the exhaust will now be a room. So two questions:

Can we move the exhaust vent ourselves? (We are quite handy)?
Does the exhaust need to go in a straight line? Can it have a 90degree bend?

You will need to check the spec sheet on that particular furnace for the size of the piping needed for the total length of piping including all fitting. Use the conversion sheet to turn all fittings into equivalent lengths of pipe, total all the pipe lengths, and choose the size of piping needed.