What's the best way to remove Sharpie ink from a varnished bar top? I need to remove some Sharpie ink that has somehow got into a varnished bar top. I've tried scrubbing at it with various cleaning products but nothing seems to work. What should I try next?

A trick I've seen is to use whiteboard markers to draw over the permanent mark, then wipe it up while it is still wet. This is because whiteboard markers and permanent markers use similar solvents.

If that fails, you can use Xylene (the solvent in these pens) or Goof Off which is a heavy-duty remover. Neither should hurt the bar surface (unlike scrubbing), but you should test it on a less visible surface first.


How can I repair a hole in bathroom wall tile? My shower had two towel bar anchors mounted on the shower wall when I moved in.

Eventually, one of the anchors has broken, and taken the plaster it was mounted to with it. This has left a 2 in. hole in the wall surrounded by tile, and no exposed surface to fix any replacement wall to without tearing out additional tile.

I don't care about replacing the anchor (I hated it), but I need to figure out how to fill the hole permanently before the moisture sets into the wall cavity.

Any suggestions?

You've got three separate problems:

You have a hole in the tile
You have a hole in the sheetrock/backer board behind the tile
Water may have damaged sheetrock behind other tiles.

I'd start by removing the grout around the broken tile with a grout saw, and prying the tile off.

Next, I'd take a look at the rest of the wall behind the tile... if it is in good condition, I'd make a sheetrock patch using cement backer board.
Next I'd try to find a tile that looks close enough and replace the broken tile with it.
Alternatively, you could cut the broken tile square (so it looks like the US state of Utah), and find a complementary color and cut that to fit the missing piece.

Re-install the missing tiles and re-grout the area.

If the wall has a lot of moisture,  I'd stick a dehumidifier in there for a while and see if the wall can be saved. Otherwise this could get quite expensive quite quickly...


Span of roof rafters, how to fix improper structure I'm building a carport that is 30x24 ft including a 20x24 gable and 10x24 lean to. It currently has 2x4 roof rafters spaced 24" with collar ties about a foot below the gable peak, so 5-6 ft long ties. Seems a 2x4 SPF #2 should really only span about 6 ft horizontally, using the American Wood Council online calculator. Why on earth do I have 2x4 rafters 24" on center? It's a long story.

The rafters on the project are spanning about 9.5 ft horizontally, both on a gable with almost 7/12 pitch (19 ft total gable span) and spanning the same 9.5ft on a side lean to with about 2/12 pitch.

This does not seem structurally sound.

My question is: Will adding 2x6 rafters in between the 2x4's make it structurally sound? So final spacing will be 12" between rafters, but alternate 2x4, 2x6. I would put 10 ft collar ties on the new 2x6 rafters, so about at the halfway mark down from the gable peak to the top plate on the posts.

Of course the answer to the question depends on the overall structural elements, but just assume that everything else is ok. Any other issues are a separate question, and you might see another from me regarding this project. I just want to know thoughts on 12" spaced rafters alternating 2x4 and 2x6.

Other info:
On top of the rafters will go 0.419 OSB, felt, and metal roofing.
There are other issues like adding additional bracing to the rafters, but that may or may not be relevant to this question. I'll give more details if anyone requires.

I am guessing the big concern comes from the fact there are 2x4's that are 24" on center and that is either old construction or from something else.

Depending on what will reside on that roof (shingles + snow etc..your loading will change) - the 24 inch centers seem to be fine .. now on to the real deal 2 x 4's vs 2 x 6's and the placement.

Using 2 x 6's between the 2x4's will give you that spacing of 2 x 6 on 24 center. So you will have the structural support as if the 2 x 4's were not there - Of course I am assuming you are just adding the same components in 2 x 6's .
A problem will arise for you when you connect the ridge beam unless it is already a 2 x 6.

As noted in one comment it was recommend you get engineered trusses, so I thought to make sure there is clarity here because my answer depends on your terminology matching - so I included a link to describe. Trusses are faster to install ..
There is a difference in traditional Rafters versus trusses ...

Look here for details:
Differences Rafters and Trusses

Depending on Building codes in your area and the inspectors it might look odd enough that they give you a no pass - even though structurally you might be ok. Weirdness sometimes causes pauses..

While I do not see any problems with what your intent is ; except for the Ridge beam connection ....

An old saying I have :

Cheaper to do it right the first time than it is to do it right the second or third time..

If you must disassemble to do it right - Just do it right, you will be GLAD you did.


How to put grommets in a tarp? If I have a custom sized tarp, is there any way for me to put a grommet where I need it, in a process similar to riveting for example?

YES, purchase (then practice a bit) with a grommet setting tool kit. manufacturers use automated machines for it, but this is the original "old school" way it was done.


Can I combine two power lines from power company My house used to have two residents. So there are two 110v power sources from power company. Now I want to combine them into one so I can have bigger current. Is it possible and how?

There are 2 questions here:

Can you convert one panel to a sub panel so that both sides are on the same service

Probably. You should be able to get an electrician to do this. It won't require ripping out any existing wiring and shouldn't be too expensive - though some big (expensive) wire needs to be run between the panels.

Can you connect the wires before the meter to get twice as much service capacity

I don't think so, but anyways this is none of your business. Call the electric company and tell them you want to cancel one service and upgrade the other. They will charge you the same whether they run new wires or not.


The waste hose on washing machine sits on floor/low We have a smell that I'm sure comes through from the standpipe when washing machine is in use. The standpipe doesn't seem to smell after use though(like this evening, last wash was earlier in day). The waste hose is loose on floor and then loosely hung into the standpipe about 6" . The hose is not clipped to the back of the machine (which would make the pipe vertical, then horizontal to the standpipe , would this cause some form of backflow having it loose? The reason I haven't used the mounting clip on back of machine as it then stops the machine being pulled forward and looks to put pressure on the hose going into the standpipe.
Hose is bottom right of rear (if standing in front of door) and clip vertically above it. Standpipe is on left side wall . If I removed the bend thing then it may be mountable.

Yes there will be a little stagnant water but there always is the pump is in the bottom of the machine and it can only push water out as long as there is water to push when the pump stops the pipe is still full any extra pipe on the ground will add to that amount but a couple of inches won’t be more than a cup or 2 added to what is there no washer that I know of empty’s that last quart or so of water.


Bosch Cordless Drill Keeps Cutting Out I have a Bosch PSB 1800 LI-2 cordless drill.  I've had it for about 2-3 years, but it doesn't have many "miles on the clock".  It's a lovely bit of kit and I've had no problems with it, until recently.  I was trying to remove some particularly stubborn stripped screws, using screw extractor bits.  I managed to remove some of them, then my drill developed a fault.

It started cutting out intermittently.  The battery is fully charged, so I know it's not a lack of power.  When I pull the trigger gently to run it on anything up to about half-power, it might work for up to a minute before cutting out.  If I try  to run it on anything more than about half-power, it cuts out within 3 seconds. Either way, it's not much use for any serious jobs.

Has anybody had similar problems with their drills?  Does anybody know whether this is something that can be fixed, or do I need to buy a new drill?

If the drill is a few years older as you mentioned i would say its likely NOT a brushless motor, in fact everything i was able to research says nothing about it being brushless, so its safe to assume it is NOT, that being said its the motor. I know you said its got low miles and i believe you, unfortunatley you just had some bad luck and for whatever reason your motor is giving out. Fortunatley for you most traditional brushed motors can easily be replaced and put back to work. Unfortunatley while doing my research i didnt come arcoss any vendors that still had these particular motors in stock. So if you can find it then your all set to go, if not than youll be shopping for a replacment within the week. My advice would be to take it slow and treat her like the smallest bump will be the last bump... because it probably will.


OK to drain humidifier into basement floor drain What I have in my basement could loosely be called a drain.  It doesn't have a pipe.  Best I can tell, they just cut a 3 inch hole in the floor; all you see is the rocks under the floor.

I've been draining the dehumidifier into this but I wonder if it's really that great of an idea.  Before I did that, I would get a good 2 gallons every day.  That seems like a lot of water to be putting down that hole.  Am I making the dehumidifier work harder by keeping the water around?  Is that water just re-evaporating back into the basement?

The humidifier should be draining either to the outside - like rainwater, away from your house - or to a real sewer drain. I have a floor drain which actually connects into the main sewer pipe. It sounds like your drain does not, so I would not recommend draining into that hole.

Many people have a similar problem with the condensate drain from their central air conditioner. Those who don't have a drain below the condensate output have to put in a condensate pump to get the condensate to a drain or outside - and failure of those pumps can result in a flood.


Can air be trapped on the wet side of an expansion tank's diaphragm? When a water heater expansion tank is installed on a closed system with the inlet facing down, wouldn't it trap air on the water side of the diaphragm? Is there a way to bleed this air out or would that trapped air dissipate over time?

Water heater expansion tanks come in various sizes. 2.1 gallon, 4.5 gallon, etc. The minimum size depends on your water pressure and the size of your water heater. You can do a calculation or use the vendor's sizing table. A water heater expansion tank bigger than the minimum is not a problem at all. A bigger water heater expansion tank is actually better in the sense that for a given water heater size, the pressure rise is lower.

What does it mean to have air trapped on the water side of the diaphragm? It means your expansion tank acts like a bigger one, until that trapped air dissolves. So you have nothing to worry about.


How should I replace a 1.5 inch tread with 1 inch tread? I plan on replacing the 2x10 treads on my basement stairs with 1 inch thick hardwood.  This will make a one half inch gap at the top of the stairs where it meets the first floor landing.  This seems to be a trip hazard.  Should I shim each tread surface of the stringers with one half inch plywood to make up for the difference in height?

Yes you can add 1/2" plywood to all carriages/stingers to make up the 1/2" difference. Glue and a few small nails to hold it in place while the new treads go on is all you will need. Do not spare the glue/construction adhesive.


Replacing ungrounded receptacle with grounded receptacle on metal box Bought a house built in 1928 (in Chicago area - everything original to the house is in metal boxes with armoured (BX) cable. Any newer work has EMT). All the wiring is the cloth wrapped wires and no ground wires. All receptacles are 2 prong. Inspector said you can find the first outlet in the circuit, put a GFCI on it, and then not worry about ground on anything else in the circuit. A multimeter says I have a strong 120 V from a hot wire to the box, so common sense tells me I can just skip the GFCI and put in a 3-prong outlet. I wouldn't even need a pigtail jumper ground because the green screw has continuity with the 10-32 screw and ears of the receptacle anyway, right? Am I missing anything?

I wouldn't even need a pigtail jumper ground because the green screw has continuity with the 10-32 screw and ears of the receptacle anyway, right? Am I missing anything?

Since they used metal raceways you could do it this way only if the receptacles are of the "self-grounding" type. They are more expensive and have a metal clip on one end of the mounting yoke. Or, if your boxes are surface mount and you remove one of the plastic screw keepers. See (A) below.

Chicago has their own Electrical Code but I would be surprised if it is any more lenient than the National Electrical Code. They are usually more strict. The NEC allows self grounding receptacles to be used for grounding in this article, attention to (B):

  250.146 Connecting Receptacle Grounding Terminal to Box.
  An equipment bonding jumper shall be used to connect the grounding terminal of a grounding-type receptacle to a grounded box unless grounded as in 250.146(A) through (D). The equipment bonding jumper shall be sized in accordance with Table 250.122 based on the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the circuit conductors.

  (A) Surface-Mounted Box. Where the box is mounted on the surface, direct metal-to-metal contact between the device yoke and the box or a contact yoke or device that complies with 250.146(B) shall be permitted to ground the receptacle to the box. At least one of the insulating washers shall be removed from receptacles that do not have a contact yoke or device that complies with 250.146(B) to ensure direct metal-to-metal contact. This provision shall not apply to cover-mounted receptacles unless the box and cover combination are listed as providing satisfactory ground continuity between the box and the receptacle. A listed exposed work cover shall be permitted to be the grounding and bonding means when (1) the device is attached to
  the cover with at least two fasteners that are permanent (such as a rivet) or have a thread locking or screw or nut locking means and (2) when the cover mounting holes are located on a  at non-raised portion of the cover.

  (B) Contact Devices or Yokes. Contact devices or yokes designed and listed as self-grounding shall be permitted in conjunction with the supporting screws to establish equipment bonding between the device yoke and  flush-type boxes.

  (C) Floor Boxes.......

  (D) Isolated Ground Receptacles......

Check with your inspector to see if you are under the Chicago Electrical Code and if it allows this.


Garbage Disposal Shoots Contents Upward Can't find anything that matches this particular issue on Google or here.

Our sink has a garbage disposal that is about 5 years old.  For about the last six months or so, the unit tends to propel its contents (water and waste) upward.  This sometimes happens immediately when it is turned on, but usually it will happen after a few seconds of grinding.

Is this a common symptom of a damaged/older disposal unit, or is this "normal" behavior?

My guess is one of two things:

1) Damaged splash guard (the rubber flap pieces that hang from the drain)

2) Some object, or some mass of shredded food/etc, has become lodged in the disposal so when it's spinning, things hit and just get shot upward.

Both could be a long shot, but it's worth checking in to both for sure.


Outdoor 3-way motion sensor on a low volt circuit? 50ft path from driveway to front door.
Volt 150w transformer.
5 kichler fixtures, currently daisy chained.
no significant drop.
Want a motion sensor on each end: exactly how does one wire this?
Thanks!

Even with the great lack of detail in the question as it currently stands, normally to have "a motion sensor at each end" you need new/additional wires running all the way from one end to the other. The motion sensors need power all the time, so you can't have one at the end away from the current power source without running new wiring for that.
Beyond that, hard to say given lack of detail in the question.


Prepping concrete floor for laminate I'm getting laminate flooring fitted in my lounge, porch and toilet and need to prep the concrete floor before it goes down.

The living room was easy as it only had carpet down. The porch and toilet had ceramic tiles which we've now removed (including adhesive). The concern I have is that there is a 1mm difference in the level of the floor between the lounge and the porch/toilet. Is this too much of a height difference for the laminate flooring to be laid evenly?

Each flooring manufacturer has specific guidelines for the amount of tolerance for their product. It varies, but it is usually something like 1/8" (2 mm+/-), using a 4' or 8' straightedge. If your condition is a little drop, not a gradual difference, I would grind it down to make the transition over a larger area, say 1-2 ft out, or get a little thinset and fill it a bit.


Wiring bathroom fan and light So I'm not the best with electrical work, and I'm running into issues replacing my bathroom vent fan and light.

The setup is three switches on the wall:

One switch controlled fan.
One switch to vent light.
One switch to other ceiling light.

Where the new vent fan and light is going:

From the ceiling - two sets of white/black/ground
From the light/vent - two sets of white/black/ground

If I connect everything one to one:

The first switch turns on fan and other ceiling light.
Second switch does nothing?
Third switch turns off fan, and makes the other ceiling light brighter.

Help? How should I be wiring this?

Update: just attached black to black, and white to white (for all four wires). The fan works, the ceiling light works, but when I switch on the light for the vent unit, both the vent light and the other ceiling light just start flashing. It's like I've wired an alert that I'm terrible at electrical work.

Please excuse my MS Paint representation, but it should help.

From what I understand, the grounding wires may not be necessary, but if the fixtures have ground wires or grounding terminals, it can only help to connect them. This question explains grounding in some more detail.

One exception is that if the vent is directly over a shower, it might need to be GFCI protected (see this question). This could be done in a variety of ways. You could install a GFCI breaker and run the vent on a dedicated circuit, but that would be annoying if it tripped since you could only reset it at the breaker. You may be able to install a dedicated GFCI outlet in the bathroom and connect the vent and switch to the protected side of that outlet. You can also find combination GFCI outlet/switches that would combine the GFCI outlet and the switch into one unit.


Moving and covering light fixtures in bathroom I currently have 2 small light fixtures in my bathroom on either side of my mirror above the sink.  My plan is to add a new fixture above the mirror and patch/cover the existing fixtures.  It's first floor, so I have no access above.

1) What is the best way to wire the new junction box for the new fixture above?  Should I just continue wires to the new fixture from one of the old side fixture boxes and just leave the wires on the other old side fixture box?

2) What is the best way to get the wires to the new box without ripping out a ton of drywall?  I'd imagine I'd have to drill through a stud to get to the new fixture.  Or am I going to have to cut out extra drywall just to get my drill in there and do work?

3) Once the new fixture is in, are there any special codes/considerations I should be aware of to cover the old boxes and drywall over them?

How you get the wire there depends on framing, access, etc. Hard for us to say. Ideally you have a continuous cable from the switch or power source. Old wires need to be disconnected at both ends.
Ditto.
You can't cover junction boxes that are in use. You'll need to have a continuous cable from your switch, or you'll need to put a decorative plate over any remaining boxes and keep them accessible.


Max amperage for “neutral tie strap” in daisy chained Siemens panel 200 amp service.
We have a service disconnect upstream of our main panel, which effectively means our neutrals and grounds are still isolated in our main panel (as one does when setting up a sub panel).
As such our Siemens panel has two neutral bars connected with a “neutral tie strap” (insulated copper bar that connects both neutral busbars.
Question is: when setting up a second “daisy chained” subpanel (125amp), where should that neutral (2awg) connect on the main panel’s neutral busbars?
Is that copper “neutral tie strap” rated to handle a situation where excessive current on a left neutral bar travels through it to the mains neutral on the right busbar (and back upstream to the service disconnect)?
Image for reference. Our panel has the green bonding screw removed.

The bonding strap will be fine for as long as the breaker on the live side feeding the current needs to trip (unless otherwise specified in the documentation of the panel).
To connect higher gauge wires that are too large for the neutral bar holes you can use a neutral lug which is a little metal block that screws into one of the neutral bar screw holes and provides a place to land the larger wire. And yes it's better to put that block on the same bar that the neutral lands on.
Also when installing a subpanel always go for more spaces than you think you will need. The small premium you are paying now will be much less than the cost of yet another subpanel in the future. As long as the wires feeding the subpanel are appropriately fused the rating of the main breaker in the subpanel doesn't matter.


How to cool a server closet with window? I put 2 servers in my closet which run at about 90F. The closet has a window, but simply opening the window doesn't drop the temperature very much even when it is 60F outside. If I open the closet door also, then the temperature matches the other rooms no problem: ~75F, but I'm worried I'm losing all the cool air inside my house and wasting A/C because of this.

I'd like to keep the closet door closed and rig something up to pump hot air out of the room just through the window. I'd like to do it as cheaply as possible and I don't care about how it looks.

I could install a window A/C unit, but that would cost $150. I was hoping I could buy a box fan for $10 and some ducting for another $10 to solve this problem. If I install the fan and the intake duct right next to each other, is that a problem? Do I need to seal the fan or intake duct to the window or is that just an optimization?

I'd really appreciate any advice! Thank you!

Question for you to ponder before spending any money:
Do you live in the arctic? Almost certainly you do not, since you just said "you're worried about wasting AC air outside" if you open the closet door.

So with the postulation above, why do you think you can cool the closet with outside air? You cannot. I'd take the stance that there will be many days that the outside air is greater or equal to the 90 degrees you comment on.

Now in the winter time, how will you cool the closet?

The simple answer to your post if you are going to spend the money is to have a window fan, two way unit, or at least one "blower" unit setup, and then you ensure you run some 6" flex tubing from the outlet of the machines to the window, with the blower fan in the piping, anywhere.

Now this said, depending on the house you have, and the mod you are willing to do, you can vent the air from the server into the attic, or into the crawl space, but you still need a way for a cooler source of air to come back into the closet space. Without an equalized pressure differential, no amount of blowing is going to help you, unless you recirculate already hot air.

So..... Buy an AC? Open the window in the winter?
It's generally best to not close off "appliances" that generate heat, in a closed space. Thus, you need to bring cool air in from somewhere, and where it comes from has to be controlled. The outside is not going to suffice for each day of the week and all seasons.


Screen Door Rollers Don't Turn I just removed my sliding screen patio door so that I can clean it and the tracks that the door wheels ride on. I noticed that the top door wheels still spin but both bottom wheels seem to be frozen ( and rusty). So that started me thinking can they both be bad or are they not supposed to spin in the first place, are they "sliding" wheels ? Any screen door experts here?

Just spray some WD40 in there and work them a little bit. Dirt and moisture cause them to lock up over time.


Vent a portable air conditioner with a 6 inch hose through a 3 inch hole in the wall I bought a new portable air conditioner for my condo. I bought this one: a/c. I want to use it to cool either my living room or my bedroom. My apartment is 1100 sq. ft. so I believe this should be more than enough to cool down either portion of the condo. However my condo is not A/C friendly. It has only narrow casement windows and one roof to ceiling sliding window in the living room. I am also not allowed to install a window mounted A/C. However, it does have these 3 inch holes in the wall in many of the rooms (presumably for ventilation or A/C). I heard some of my neighbors use those holes to vent their A/Cs. I wonder whether this is safe or not (fire, mold). If it is, can I just hook the hose into a 6 to 3 reducer? What material is good for this purpose: PVC, metal, something else?

I know there are ways to install portable A/Cs in casement and tall sliding windows but both seem too complicated. I was hoping I can just use a reducer and be done, but I want to make sure it is safe. BTW the condo exterior walls are concrete.The holes clearly lead to the outside (I can see the street through them)

The reduction of the diameter from the 6" of the hose to 3" through the wall may not cause a significant problem. The resistance to fluid flow of a pipe is [inversely] proportional to the square of the diameter and directly proportional to the length of the pipe. So if the length of the 3" diameter hole is short compared to the length of the 6" hose, then the constriction to 3" may work OK. You could ask the mfgr, but you may have to try it. I bet it will work fine.

The key to making it work would be to make a gradual transition from 6" diameter to 3" diameter over say 8 inches to 1 ft of length. This would prevent the creation of turbulence which could restrict flow. Presumably the 3" hole in the wall is lined with a pipe, right?

I wonder if those 3" diameter holes are positioned vertically so that a ductless mini-split a/c could be installed. How high above the floor are these holes? How far are they from the ceiling? Would the building management allow that?


What should I do to make good on some lightly water damaged plaster? When we moved in to our house (an early 1970s build in the UK) we noticed some damage to the plaster above a window; the surface was uneven and some was loose. It appeared dry so the surveyors and builders and us assumed it was a problem with the RSJ and recently installed double glazed uPVC windows and so the builders simply knocked out the loose plaster and reskimmed the area. However, after the plastering was complete but before we started sealing or decorating the wall we noticed a growing damp patch and found a broken tile directly above the wall, which had been fixed up with gaffer tape which after recent rains had come away. I got roofers out and the roof has been made water tight with some new felt and our roofers are looking for replacement tiles.

After 9 days of being left in a heated room to dry the affected area looks like this:

The surface is still smooth and intact and the plaster no longer feels damp to the touch. When tapped it sounds as solid as unaffected plaster on the other bits and does not ring hollow.  The coving above looks intact though there was little water running behind it before the roof was fixed. If I run my finger over the area there is some white residue.

Should we let the plaster dry out and seal it up and decorate, or repair it somehow?

If the surface is undamaged and it sounds solid just leave it to dry out completely. If it's now dry to the touch then it is drying out. If there was a lot of water coming in it will take a while to dry out.

Once it has dried then seal it with a coat of thinned white emulsion before putting the main colour on or wallpapering.

One caveat though - it could be permanently stained so it might still look damp but be perfectly dry - so even if the discolouration hasn't changed in week (or so) it will be safe to decorate. What you could do in the first instance is just paint. If there is still a problem with the damp it will quickly show up and you can then look at replastering.


Why does my plumbing shut itself off? I had a water leak when my shower supply line broke. The plumber had to shut off the water main and replace the shutoff at the water meter and shower diverter. Now when I turn on my kitchen sink hot water runs for 3 minutes then I lose pressure and the water goes off. The pipes knock a little but no air comes out of the faucet.

Is this an air pocket in the hot water heater?

Check the cold water inlet valve on the hot water heater. It's possible that the valve is partially closed, which would allow your expansion tank to pressurize slowly over time. The pressure from the tank would supply hot water to your faucet for a while.


How to properly scribe molding? I have a 96" wall.  The wall and ceiling are not square.  I wanted molding on the top.

I leveled and secured the molding.  The left side of the molding was up against the ceiling.  The right side of the molding was about a 1/4" lower than the ceiling.
I scribe the molding with a pencil and a washer and run it the length of the wall.

It worked!

However, the left side is now narrow and the right side is thicker.
This is not what I intended.  You can notice it.  But the bottom of the molding is level.

What did do wrong?

In a perfect world, if everything in a house was level and flat, scribe molds would not be needed or at least easy to install. The need to scribe a molding in depends on a few things.

1.The size of the molding to be scribed.

If a molding is already narrow on the face and is trimmed down the difference will be immediately detectable. In my opinion, it is all about proportions. A 3" wide molding can handle a taper of a 1/4" off one edge much better than a 1" molding. That amount off a 3" molding over a 5' run is much less noticeable than the same amount of taper on a 1" molding. Length of run makes a difference too. Picture in your mind the same amount of taper on a much shorter piece.

Placement on the wall.

The conditions the wall the molding is going on, in your case the material appears to be ship lap, if that material is not run level and the last board is tapered wider on the left end and narrow on the right, which is what it appears the situation you have, tapering the molding so it is level will exacerbate the difference in the last panel, plus on top of that, the taper the scribe molding has. Sometimes while trimming a house, you cannot rely on level, level can be a reference point, but not a line to follow, especially in an old house where things have shifted or settled.

In this condition you have, I would not trim the scribe mold at all, set it to the ceiling to follow it, that will reduce the amount of difference in the last panel. At the most, I would scribe the slight bow in the ceiling, to aid in making the bottom edge a bit straighter, but not much more than that.

While I am installing a wall such as yours, I take measurements in 3 places, in the width and the height. The width measures tell me how easily the ends will be to cut, whether I have to change the angles as I go up the wall or live with a big caulk joint. The measure of the height, tells me if I need to adjust one or more pieces to get a good finish, or at least make sure the stuff that ends up at eye level is looking good. If the floor and ceiling is running out of level the same amount, I would tend to follow the floor so the rip at the ceiling is the same width all the way through. This has exceptions of course, but it would be my first consideration. Always check your progress at halfway points, halfway up the wall, go up again halfway to 3/4 height over all, and check dimensions again adjusting as needed.

In your case, if the top panel is tapered to meet the ceiling, I would consider puling it down and tapering it no more than a 1/4" over all to reduce the difference at the ceiling. If the difference is a lot, you may want to taper more than one. The scribe molding to me is already small enough to not handle a trimming to a taper, but it could handle a slight dip to go around a hump in the ceiling.


Remove fireplace leave metal chimney on roof I removed a wood-burning stove and cut through the double-lined metal chimney flue in the attic. In the short term I jammed some insulation in the metal liner and left the rest of the chimney with the existing cap (see pic) on the roof. The top has a removable cap like this (duct tape was a short-term fix to stop airflow):
Can I just cap the top off and leave the bottom where I've cut it?
Whatever I do needs to pass a home inspection because we are selling the house soon.

You can cap it with a chase cover if its not functional, your local sheet metal shop can probably make one at a low cost, here's an example:
https://www.kmsheetmetal.com/shop/Chimney-Chase-Cover-p195969014[![enter image description here]1]1


How to demolish old stone walls safely? We are renovating an old property in France where three walls of an old stone schoolhouse (10ish meters high I'm guessing, maybe more in some places) sit adjacent to the more recent house (1950s). We need to demolish the walls for a few reasons.  1) They present a safety hazard. 2) They block the view. 3) We want to create a large terrace in its place. Two of the walls are not attached to anything, but the third wall is attached to another house--abandoned and not ours--by a kind of short stone bridge which complicates matters further. This wall is not destined for demolition, but it is, of course, attached at the corner to the long wall.
We've brainstormed a few ideas for how to do this safely.

Climb up a ladder, starting at the top and chiseling away at the mortar, thus allowing us to knock down the wall stone by stone. This seems dangerous and slow.

Attach grappling hooks and use a winch to pull down the wall. This seems more efficient and safer for the people involved but more difficult to control where the stones fall. EDIT: No longer considering this given rebound issues: 2

EDIT: Solution 3: use a hand winch and attach to the top stones with a metal band across several stones and then pull down one layer at a time.
We want the stones to fall inward to fill the void where the old foundation used to be and NOT outward risking rolling down the mountain and into other houses.
Anyone have any idea how to approach this demolition? Are we on the right track at all? Any tricks, advice, etc. you could offer?
EDIT: Many have commented below regarding the legal issues involved like protected/historical sites as well as adjacent property considerations. Thank you for thinking of these issues, but we are approaching everything legally and going through all the proper administrative channels (demolition authorization, etc.). France is super serious about these issues, and we don't dare do anything that would jeopardize our neighbors or our project goals!
Picture below is looking up towards the walls which are now covered in vines.

Taking down the wall safely is not the only issue. You wrote in comments:

there's no legal problem here because we own all the land surrounding the house that isn't ours, and the connection between the house and the old wall is actually on our property and not technically legal.

My perspective is that of a retired US lawyer, wholly unfamiliar with French real property law. In many legal systems, however, an activity on your own land (such as demolishing the wall) that affects or impairs your neighbors' land or structures thereon could create a serious legal problem for you. In US law, the underlying (pun!) concept is called subjacent support. Changing the land's drainage pattern could similarly affect others' property, and create similar liability.
Before you take any action on the ground, I would consult someone knowledgeable about these sorts of matters in your locality. An attorney or local notaire, or at least someone who has personal experience in real property construction and demolition. The person should not be someone who is involved in proposing, or doing, or contracting the work you want - that person has a built-in conflict of interest.
Removing the walls may be entirely doable. But doing so also may create serious and persistent problems, physical, fiscal, or both. You will be better off knowing before you act.


How can I hang this Moroccan Tray? I just inherited this large 39" Moroccan tray (weighs about 15 lbs) from my parents and want to hang it on our wall. It does not have any hardware on the back so I'm trying to figure out what I can do without glueing or attaching anything to it in fear of damaging the tray.

Any ideas? Our wall is dry wall and there is one off-centered stud where we want to hang it.

A very large plate hanger?

But I think it would be hard to find a plate hanger in the 40 inch size range. In the picture above you would need one twice the size of the one on the left.

But making one isn't that hard. Its two bent wires and some plastic padding with the bent wires connected with tension element commonly a spring but picture wire and a tensioner could be used instead.


Should a switch near a sink be on the load side of a GFCI outlet? If a switched GFCI protected outlet is required, and the switch will be near a sink (above a counter-top), should the switching be done the load side of the GFCI outlet? (e.g. for a garbage disposal) Seems there are two ways to do it:

Switch hot from panel to line of GFCI outlet, use that as the switched outlet. Detailed here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/16849/11812
Wire direct from panel to line side of GFCI, then switch the hot on the load side of the GFCI to a 2nd receptacle (and neutral back to load on GFCI). Detailed here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/28625/11812

The 2nd option protects the switch, and is more work. My questions are:

Is that a good idea?

Is it required by code? (California)

I believe the NEC requirement is only that the receptacle be protected.  I don't know of any additional California requirement that would apply, or there could be something local, you never know.

Is it better that the switch be on the protected side of the GFCI?  Well of course it's at least a little better.  The only way I can think of a switch zapping you in a way that would be protected by GFCI is if the switch wasn't properly grounded and somehow a loose connection energized the screws holding on the cover plate, something like that.  So it seems pretty safe to me in the first place if the switch is in good condition and grounded properly.


How to smooth cement trim/moulding on pillars? I'm getting my house painted and have about 20 decorative concrete pillars with cement trim/moulding (see pics below). The first contractor turned out to be a rookie and basically slathered paint on the trim making it looks ugly (pic 1st and 3rd). The second contractor hand sanded another pillar for 2 days (pic 2nd and 4th) and said that's about as good as it's gonna get. Is there any tool/method that I can use to speed up the sanding process and improve the end result? I'd really like a nice/smooth finish with clean/sharp design elements.

They are plaster columns, they need to the stripped of the paint down to bare plaster and have a reputable plaster company repair them. There may be others out there that can do it, but you are taking the same chance that you already have. Plaster is a dying art, and you may be hard pressed to find one.


method to rout rope beading in door trim - rope bit or side cutting I am realizing that the $39.95 package of beaded door trim and corner rosettes amounts to 86.00 per door, and with about 10 doors to do, I've decided to mill them myself, thank you very much.  I found a great site for purchasing the rosettes, so that leaves the beaded (rope, I think, see image) trim.  I measured and THOSE BEADS are 15/32" WIDE and about 3/32" deep.

I realize I can buy a rope cutting bit (but I'm not sure if that's the correct term or where to buy by dimensions), or I can buy something like the image below for cutting against the side, however the flat part next to the shank would be in the way if the ropes were to butt up against each other, so that's not really the bit I need.

Question is, which method should I use, and can someone suggest a part number exact part name for the type of bit I'd use.  I am leaning to the second method but appreciate an experienced voice.  However, this post is about the correct name for either bit so I know how to find it.  This would be milled from clear pine.  Thanks!

The device you are showing is a router bit, for making ONE shape on the edge of a piece of wood. The moulding you want is made with a completely different tool called a "spindle moulder" that would have multiple knives in that shape to make that in one pass.


Adding pergola beams to an existing deck I have a 12' x 12' deck with posts set at 6' on the sides & 4' on the front. There are 2 x 6 along the outside at the top of the posts.  I would like to add pergola beams across the top,side to side to cut the sun a bit.  Will the 2 x 6's hold those beams or should I add another 2 x 6 to the inside for more support?

Thank you.

A 2x6 weighs about 2 lbs. per foot, so each 2x6 will weigh about 2 lbs. x 12’ span = 24 lbs.

Half the weight will be carried by one end, so the weight on each end will be about 12 - 16 lbs. per foot (if the 2x6’s are 12” o.c.) and there are miscellaneous 2x2 wood strips on top too.

A 2x6 roof joist support can carry about 150 lbs. per foot, depending on the species and grade.

So, structurally you do not need to add another 2x6 to support your pergola Beams (2x6’s), but you may want to for appearance.

See these designs

Remember, the best wood for exterior use and natural finish will be cedar or redwood...but you can always paint pressure treated wood.


What is the fire resistance on a corrugated iron wall? I have a timber stud frame extension with external corrugated iron cladding.  Can anyone give me any information about the fire resistance?  The construction is :
- Corrugated iron (pe-painted about 1mm thick -)
- battens
- building paper
- OSB (weather-proof chip board)
- 150mm timber frame with Celotex insulation between stud work.
- vapour barrier
- 2 sheets of 12.5mm fire retardant plaster board
Thanks
Stephen

My intuition tells me the exterior would not provide "1-hour" fire protection. Although the metal cladding certainly would not burn, it will readily conduct heat.
The gypsum/plaster-board is a very poor heat transfer medium and that along with the fire-resistant paper on it is what gives it it's fire rating.

You should start to think about maybe stucco or plaster over the cladding (yes, it can be done) which if properly applied would be great for fire protection (although rating it would be a guess). Or removing the cladding and adding a layer of the plaster board behind it.


How to connect a 2 wire 220v power inverter to a 3 wire 220/110v house I recently bought an off grid solar system from China but I was not aware that the inverter has 2 wire 220v input/output. How can I  connect it to my house?

I’m going to assume you’re in North America, with split-phase 120/240 volt service.

The answer is you can’t, at least not directly.  If you were to connect the inverter to your two hots, it would be the equivalent of losing your neutral. Search this site or the web for “open neutral” and you’ll see how dangerous that is.

In theory, you could use a 1-to-1 isolation transformer, with a center-tapped secondary to provide the neutral. Make sure it’s rated for the voltage and current (not to mention the line frequency) of the inverter.

Let’s talk about other issues.

For one thing, I wouldn’t be caught dead with that rig connected to my house! Read about all of the poorly designed and manufactured crap coming out of China these days. You are literally playing with fire.

Second, you say this is an off-grid inverter (glad you’re not trying to use a grid-tie inverter). Are you actually off-grid or just looking for backup? How are you planning to tie in to the house if you are normally on the grid? Flipping off the main breaker and flipping on the breaker to the inverter without any kind of interlock is dangerous and clearly against code. Either use a generator transfer switch or an interlock.

Last of all, don’t expect your homeowner’s insurance to be very happy when you make a claim. This rig is most likely not legal to be installed in the US.


Electric GE Dryer heating while turned off I have a GE electric dryer that came with the house and as I was sliding it to the side I could feel a good amount of heat coming out of the back and top. I opened the dryer and the inside of the drum didn't seem warm. There dryer hasn't been used in the last 18 hours.
I took it apart, removing the top, front, and drum and I can't tell if this broken heating element coil that is touching the back of the dryer is heating up the backing which is making the dryer hot, but this doesn't make sense since it hasn't been used in the last 18 hours. Also this broken coil is not wired to the motor while the other one is. When I unplugged the dryer it cooled down pretty quickly.
Is it another part of the heating unit that could be broken keeping it turned on and heating? How could I tell if so?

Depending on the heat control it is quite possible that only 1 side of the 240v is being switched to control the heat.
The  broken coil and the touching ground on the other side would allow a return path and then create some heat.
Replacement of the heat coil will fix it if it is this kind of control.


Why (if at all) is finish paint necessary on interior wood surfaces? I have a couple of doors that stick in an old home. They stick even worse when occupants hang coat racks or mirrors over the door. The doors, like the home, are old and have plenty of character, i.e. wooden, imperfect appearance. Hinges seem good, and the sticking appears to be a combo of doors swelling and of frames being not-exactly-square due to settling, along with the tight fit being tighter in those sticky spots when something is hung over the door. So, I sanded a door down on its top edge (<1mm) using a rasp and sand paper, and it works. The sanded wood looks fresher and has a lighter tone than the rest of the wood door.

The usual next step, I understand, is to apply a thin coat of finishing paint on wood I sanded. Why, if at all, is this necessary? Since the doors are inside the house, protection from weathering doesn't seem like it would be an issue, and because the doors already have an aged woody look to them, these small sanded spots on the edges aren't an aesthetic problem. Is there any need for finishing paint on interior wood aside for aesthetics?

Unfinished wood is very porous, so it's more subject to dimensional changes due to humidity. Also, it's very receptive to dirt and oil from skin and cleaning.

I the case of a door top, it's not critical. I've done the same myself. You could simply apply a coat of stain or paint, which will improve appearance and partially seal the wood. A coat of urethane will not substantially increase the dimensions of the door either.


Big gap for interior lock Problem: there is a big gap between the side of the door where the lock is and the frame of the recess, so that the lock latch doesn't reach the strike plate to keep the door shut. It takes a slight pull to open it.

What can I do to fix it?

This looks to be an interior door. The best way to fix this is to take off the door casing trim at the latch side on both sides of the door opening. Then using opposing pairs of tapered shims sticking in between the door frame and the adjacent stud you pound in the shims so that the lower portion of the door frame is crowded over closer to the door. I would use at least three or four sets of shims to move the frame out in a uniform manner.

Before starting this make sure the striker plate screws are not long ones that go all the way into the stud. If so remove them before using the shims.

After the shims have moved the frame over then you may need to add additional finish nails through the face of the door jamb through the shims and into the stud to hold things in the new position. After that you can work at replacing the casing trim.

I notice from your picture that the bottom hinge side of the door looks like it has no clearance. This may be due to the fact that the hinges were inset too far into the door and / or frame. If this is the case it is a good bet that this is part of the reason for the excessive gap on the door latch side. You may want to look into this and see if shimming out the lower hinge (and possibly also the center one) to see if this would fix the gap problem on the other side of the door. If so that would make a simpler solution than removing the casing and shimming the frame on the latch side.


3-zone HVAC (HZ432) one zone's a/c stops working when hot in afternoon I have a 3-zone HVAC. All 3 zones a/c worked fine until recently. Now, in the morning, before it gets too hot, all zones still work fine. But in the afternoon, when it gets hot, the a/c to zone 2 stops working, while the other zones continue to work fine. When zone 2 is on in the afternoon, the evaporator unit is running, but no air is being pushed out of the vents.

If it was a frozen evaporator coil, shouldn't all zones stop working? If it was a damper issue, shouldn't zone 2 not work during any part of the day?

I'm at a loss, any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I can imagine a case where the damper motor stops working in the heat of the day, or the heat somehow causes the damper to bind.  Those zone controller systems have a diagnostics mode that allows you to test many of the components from the control panel.  When it's hot and zone 2 isn't working, you can test the damper with the control panel and perhaps measure the voltage going to the damper motor when it's being activated.  I think there is even an error light if certain issues are detected with the damper motor.

You can probably hear the motor working (or not working) when running the tests and that alone can point you in the right direction.  Checking the voltage can help rule out a bad transformer or even a fault with the zone controller.

It's a hot job, so download the instruction manual for the zone controller and plan out which tests you need to do before getting up in the attic (assuming it's all in the attic which could be completely wrong).


How to replace a CFL recessed light with LED fixture I bought a few LED new light fixtures and was able to replace them in bedroom in 5-10 minutes each. But the ones in kitchen had a weird CFL format and not the usual lightbulb screw kind of holder so not sure what are my options.
I am attaching pictures of the current fixture and the new LED fixture that I bought. Any ideas appreciated.
Should I just snip the current holder and the new light bulb adapter and splice the black wire with the red and the white with the blue? Is that it?

No, you can't do that. The blue and red wires you see in the existing fixture come from the ballast for the CFL bulb. It's not  the regular 120V. You'll need to remove the old fixture to get to the 120 Volts you need and install a new fixture.


What is the proper term for a latch that uses a loop and lever to draw things together? In this answer I advised the OP to use what I called a 'toggle latch' or 'draw latch'. Do these things have a proper name?

In the U.S. the item you refer to is most often called a draw catch. There are other names, depending on manufacturer and purpose, but I worked 19 years in commercial and residential hardware supply and we always called that a draw catch.


Self-leveling compound and underlayment We currently decided we are going to be remodeling our kitchen. With that being said I plan to rip up the old hardwood floors all the way down to the sub floor. After cleaning, securing any squeaky or flexing spots in the subfloor I planned on using self leveling compound to flatten everything out. My main question is, Do I lay a new 1/4 in. plywood sub floor ontop of the leveling compound and secure it or would I just start my new flooring project from there? The new flooring will be a floating (hardwood, laminate, or vinyl) floor with a pad underneath. From my understanding I believe I would just start flooring over the leveling compound as screwing down a new 1/4 in. underlayment would crack and crumble the sub floor, but thought I would check with all of you amazing people. Thank you.

You would not install another layer of wood underlayment for your project. You'd apply the flooring pad directly over the cement layer.


What kind of lock used to be here? We're moving into a new place and have been told by the building's management that the top lock on our door is our own responsibility. It appears that the previous tenants had something in the top lock position and took it with them (or the building removed it after they moved out). I have pictures of what I am talking about, and I would be very grateful if anyone could tell me (a) what kind of lock used to be here? and (b) what other kinds of locks, if any, can we put on our door considering we don't want to have to put a hole in the door frame (see last picture).

Looks like they had a "jimmy-proof deadbolt" on the door. You should be able to pickup one at any major hardware store.


Is this ceiling rose electrical wiring diagram correct for the lighting system I am implementing I have found a few wiring diagrams online, but none that fit my specific scenario. Please can you tell me if my wiring plan according to my diagram below is correct. Apologies for the non standard diagram and probably terrible terminology, I hope it makes sense. I am quite new to electrics. I have somebody I can have check the system for safety, but I am trying to learn on my own.

Scenario:

We have a main overhead light in the centre of the bedroom, and two reading lights above the bed. The main overhead light and each reading light is switched independently, and each can be switched on without any of the other lights being on.

To this end, I intent to run the supply in on the live loop, and run the live back out to the main overhead light switch, which when on, will complete the main overhead light circuit.

The other two lights, the reading lights will be joined together in one terminal, each going to a light and switched circuit returning to the neutral terminal together.

As far as I can see, any switch being switched on in this system will complete a circuit, independently of the other circuits connected from this ceiling rose.

Does this look correct?

As put in the comments, you should never put a switch in the neutral of a light.

Further, I am going to assume you are in a place where they use the wire colours as follows, because that seems the case in your drawing (I don't know all the world-wide colour schemes, but the most famous one that fits you image is this one I think):

Brown = Phase ( = hot )
Blue = Neutral
Green/Yellow = Earth
Black = Switched Phase ( = hot after a switch )

EDIT: Due to John's comment I add here, that apparently in the UK the switched wire is normally neutral colour (blue here), but with a live-colour (brown here) sleeve at each end. The remaining story most likely stays the same, with that substituted for black in the remainder.

As you can see in my list, there's a special, dedicated colour for switched wires, this is true in almost all colour schemes. In most countries dozens of pages of code can be paraphrased with:

You are not up to code if you do any of the following:

Use different coloured wires for the same signal (as you do in your drawing: Your main light gets brown, where the same wire is blue coming from the switch)
Use a safer colour for a less safe signal (i.e. Blue for something that is switched or black for something that is always phase)
Use the earth colour for anything other than earth
Use the neutral colour for anything other than neutral
Use the phase colour for anything other than phase
Combine low voltage DC or AC, that's assumed isolated and safe, in the same distribution channels as high voltage AC.
Put more than X wires in a tube of size Y (X and Y differ between approval collectives and as such continents)

(often these codes are as redundant as the list above, I promise)

So, if you live in a area where my wire colour assumptions are correct, you will need to do the following to be up to the latest version of code (here in NL, for example there was a transitionary period also including Red and White as standard colours, but this has well and truly ended for new installations):

Make all the wires connected directly to the phase brown.
Make all the wires directly connected to the neutral blue.
Make sure the switches are all connected to the phase (with brown wires).
Use black wires (this is where my assumption comes in) going from the switches to the lights
connect the other sides of the lights to the neutral (with blue wires).

This makes you up to code, and as a bonus (partly why the code is there) you can at any point in time quickly check whether all is right, because you know which wire comes from where and connects to what and no one colour ever connects to another.


What could cause my Kitchen tile flooring to come loose and start lifting? My kitchen tile flooring was subject to water infusion when it was submerged in several inches of water for six hours, due to a leak in our plumbing. Now the 2' by 2' tile and mortared joints are cracking and lifting. It is possible that the water damaged the integrity and adhesive hold or shrunk the thin set under the tile? Is the only solution to replace the whole tile floor? the installation is a first floor concrete slab construction with concrete thin set used to set and level the two foot square tiles and concrete mortared joints on 1/4 inch spacing. I have never had this problem before and the areas of the water infusion are where the problems are. The insurance company says there is no way that the water is the cause of this problem.

It could involve the thinset you used. Generally a latex modified thinset will give a stronger bond, especially in a high foot traffic are like the kitchen. If your thinset was not latex modified it's possible that the water degraded the integrity of the bond.


Leaking diverter in shower valve My tub faucet is leaking from inside the diverter control arm inlet ( little whole below the valve with yellow arrow).    Any idea if it can be fixed without replacing the whole unit?
The red arrow points to the stem that controls both hot and cold water.  I don't know the make and model as the trim plates markings have worn off.  The lever that controles  the shower head diverter just slides into the whole (yellow arrow) and controls the flow to the shower head by sliding to the left (off) or right(on)  the blue arrow points to the diverter control lever on the trim plate.  Don't know the make and model.

There are seals inside the diverter which can be replaced. This may be an O-ring or a more complicated seal. Turn off the water at the valves. Unscrew the diverter stem and take it to a homestore or better to a plumbing supply.


Toilet water running when full. Our water bill tripled last month. For the past year or so, two of our toilets make a leaking sound and a hissing sound. We had a friends plumber come and fix it and it seems to have only made the situation worse. The picture (screenshot is the video) shows what it’s now doing. Even though the toilet is full, every minute or two, it makes noise like water is running. What’s happening?

As I see it, this can be one of a few things.

Leaky flapper, which has already been suggested
Pull chain is too tight allowing water to seep under the flapper
pull chain too slack and can get caught under the flapper.
Water level too high allow water to drop into the overflow

I'd replace both the ball cock and flapper, it'll run you about 15 bucks if you do it yourself. It's very easy.


Which elements should I buy for my hot water heater? I have a GE50M06AAG water heater and likely need to replace my elements. I've read the manual and looked on the tag on the water heater itself but am a bit confused as to which elements I need to buy at Home Depot.

Here's a picture of the tag:

I noticed that the UPPER/LOWER says "4500/3380" but wasn't sure if that meant use a dual watt element or I could use only use a 4500 watt element at 240 volts and a 3380 on 208 volts?

I agree with both above answers but don't jump into throwing parts at it, get an ohm meter and measure the resistance of the elements with the breaker off the conductor should be open to ground and have a low resistance end to end , sometimes both elements are good and the controllers are bad or 1 controller bad possibly just 1 bad element,  you might save quite a bit by checking things out. Longer elements at the same 4500 w is lower watt density if they will fit go long the last longer. Also don't forget about your anode it probably needs replacing.


Why do electrical devices use such small wire? I know that it is unwise to use 14 awg wire on a 20 amp circuit and that 12 gauge should be used because the larger wire can handle the larger load, right?  Then how come when I open up a night light (that can be plugged into a 15A or 20A circuit) I find tiny wire (18 gauge?) coming directly off the plug pin to power a little LED bulb?

In other words, why can electrical devices use such tiny wires inside if they're on a regular 15A or 20A circuit?

Circuit wire is kept relatively large because general purpose receptacles are just that: general purpose.  You can plug a nightlight into them one moment and a kilowatt hairdryer the next.

In a fixture, luminaire, or appliance, on the other hand, the designers can use thinner wire (down to 18AWG for fixture wire as per NEC 402.6) as they know how much current will ever flow through there -- the appliance or fixture only needs a certain amount of current, never more (unless there's a fault, which is why you have fuses in appliances).


Any experience with Metwood joist reinforcers? Does anyone in the group have experience using the following product from Metwood to reinforce joists that had to be to cut to route plumbing drains/pipes?

https://www.metwood.com/product/1-reinforcer/

This product lets you make a larger sized hole in joists than what what would otherwise be allowed by code.

The product doesn't seem to be widely available so hoping to get feedback (positive or negative) from those that have used it and are familiar with it.

Thanks

Follow the link provided by @Jack (How to cut hole larger than 1/3 of joist?), but note that the only entity that matters is your AHJ.

Bring them the engineering specs from Metwood (https://www.metwood.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/CCRR-0279.pdf) and see if the answer is yes/no/need-more-information.


How to avoid nailheads in stud behind plaster? Goal:

I'd like to install a wall mounted shelf system in my bedroom.  It's composed of vertical wood rails that screw into the wall, and then shelves and cabinets are  hung off of the rails.

Background information and reference pictures:

I've already installed a section of the system successfully in my kitchen, which as far as I can tell is drywall- was fairly straightforward to install and I used the plastic drywall anchors that flip up to grip the wall (brand name 'wallclaw'.)

Picture of installation in kitchen drywall shown here:

I am pretty sure that the bedroom where I want to install the remaining shelving is plaster, not drywall.  I've read various advice on how to test this, but I'm still not sure.  (I can insert a thumbtack in the wall, but it takes a little effort.  Can't really tell from tapping the wall and listening.  An inexpensive electronic studfinder has inconsistent results, a magnetic one only sticks in a few places.)

I had previously put a hole in a different wall in the target room, and found wood with a horizontal grain that is 'bouncy'- I'm guessing this is the slats plaster is adhered to and it means the entire room is plaster.

Picture of hole in a different wall in the target room:

I purchased a higher end studfinder (Zircon Metalliscanner m40) and in wide scan mode I seem to have found studs 16" apart.  When I scan vertically in pinpoint mode it seems to find a vertical row of nails- so I'm guessing this is where horizontal slats are nailed to the studs.

Question summary:

Given the evidence above, is the wall plaster, and not drywall?
If it is plaster and I don't want to go into studs, what anchors should I use- I'd like to put books and some heavy objects on the shelves and the weight is distributed between four 70" vertical rails, 32 inches part, with 4 screws in each rail (resulting in 3 "bays" of shelves in between the rails)
If it is indeed plaster and I want to screw into the studs, is the best way to drill a pilot hole then just go all the way through with a wood screw?
Am I correct that this means there are nails or screws throughout the entire height of the stud?  If so, what is the best way to avoid hitting these with the screws when I attempt to screw the rails into the wall?
Anything else I need to worry about, like exposed wires behind the wall? (Plumbing is very unlikely  given the room)
What's the best method to ensure the rails are perfectly parallel to each other and 90 degrees straight up and down?

Answers, in order.

This is plaster and wood lath.
Toggle bolts are typical, but the comment from @EdBeal about using the studs is spot on. Plaster is quite variable in its holding power... chances are fair that it wouldn't fail, but you can't be sure until you try.
Forget the pilot hole unless you're having real problems driving the screw. The stud is softwood, so a pilot isn't necessary.
The nails that attach the wood lath to the studs are tiny, so a screw will push past them. (Unless you're really unlucky and hit one dead-on-square in the middle, but that's very unlikely. Then reposition the screw a tiny bit up/down and do over.)
You should always worry about electricity, but the chance of you drilling through a wire is relatively slim.
Screw the top of one of the standards into the stud. Use a level to make it plumb and screw the bottom. With the level, mark the tops or bottoms of subsequent standards. Align to the mark, roughly plumb, screw one end, plumb for real, screw the other end. Repeat.


One circuit on two 20 amp breakers Can I put one circuit on two 20-amp breakers? I'm drawing too much power on just one breaker and I'm not able to run a whole new circuit right now.

NO.

First -- the job of the breaker is to protect the wire from overheating and BBQing your house.  A 40A circuit would require 8AWG copper wire, not the 12AWG that is currently in your walls.

Second, you are not the circuit breaker factory, which means you have no idea how such a combination would perform, and are forbidden from doing this by NEC 240.8:

  240.8 Fuses or Circuit Breakers in Parallel. Fuses and circuit breakers shall be permitted to be connected in parallel where they are factory assembled in parallel and listed as a unit. Individual fuses, circuit breakers, or combinations thereof shall not otherwise be connected in parallel.


Is polystyrene safe to use as a wall of a grow box? I'm building a small 40x40x40 cm grow box that will be used mainly for seeds germination.
When operating, it will be completely sealed.
My question is: Is it safe to use polystyrene boards as direct insulation of the box? Because its main purpose is seeds germination, I need to maintain a stable temperature, for example, 30°C (86°F). To heat up the box, I'll use a heater made from a power resistor. I'm not sure yet what temperature of the power resistor will be at this moment; anyway, I'm wondering how safe is it? Or else, what could I do to make the polystyrene less flammable, maybe coat it with paint color?

30 degrees is fine, otherwise you'd be seeing melted polystyrene containers everywhere, especially around coffee machines..
The sheets can soak up water so it will need water proofing.


How do i turn off the hot water so i can fix a leaking hot tap My laundry hot water tap is dripping. I want to change the washer inside the tap but im unsure how to turn off the hot water.

In an ideal world, there will be an isolating valve (see below) under the sink which you just turn.

Given you are asking the question, there probably isn't.

In that case you need to follow the pipework back until you find a valve.  Places to look:

If you have a hot water tank, there may be a valve to prevent any water coming out of it.  If there is, you can use that.
(If you have a hot water tank, and have to use any of the following valves, you may have to drain the hot water tank).  Check if there is a valve to stop water flowing in to the hot water tank.
Check if there is a valve before or after the boiler.
If you have a cold water tank, there may be a valve to stop water coming out of it.
Ultimately, you may have to turn off all water to the house (and if you have a cold water tank, you will have to drain it).  You do know where the main water stop-cock is don't you?  If not, now is a really good time to find it!  (Not when there is water pouring through a ceiling.)

Depending on how far back you have to go in order to cut off the water, you might want to consider taking this opportunity to add some additional isolating valves - it's very easy.


Any code points, other references on using compression and set screw fittings on same EMT run? This is more a commercial/industrial electrical question, but there's no Stack for that, so;
Anyone ever been dinged by an inspector for this? I can't find anything in the 2017 or 2020 NEC, even went so far as to download NECA 1-2015, which expands on that one line from NEC 110.12 (the "neat and workmanlike manner" clause). But anyway, everywhere I look no one just outright condemns it. I found one site that mentions it but only in the vein of if you're using two different types of hardware that's more work because I guess you're loading up two different types of hardware. I'm looking at it more like, an electrician just has a few types of fittings/couplings/connectors in his pouch, so that's what he uses instead of taking the time to go get matching fittings and having a better looking run. ....then we end up with a run that maybe has set screw and standard compression couplings under an outdoor awning, then switches to raintight compression where it's exposed to the weather. (just for an example).  ...Anyway, any building pros on here know any deep-dive code points for me? (or really, any other data on this minute topic) Thanks in advance!

NEC 110.2 you have to use [UL] approved equipment.
NEC 110.3(B) you must use equipment according to its labeling and instructions.
Any EMT couplings from competent suppliers comply with 110.2, and using them for their (one) obvious purpose satisfies 110.3(B).
Both are listed for the task, it's no worse than using different brands.


Connecting female thread to female threaded faucet I am connecting a water filter to one of my taps. It’s driving me mad. The tap itself has an aerator that is readily unscrewed. The socket on the tap itself is female threaded. Here I am holding the aerator in my fingers and the tap is in the background.

The thread itself is inset a little bit into the tap.

My water filter connector is also female threaded.

So one of them must be converted to a male thread, and the adapter must be small enough not to cause a problem with the narrow space around the female connector that is slightly inset into the tap.

I googled a bit. I found e.g this product decribed as a female to male adapter. But look at it! It goes into the female threaded connector and gives another female one!

What do I need to do the job and get my purifier connected?!

If we can believe what you wrote in your question rather than what you show in your pictures then what you are really looking for is a M to M adapter. Not the F to M adapter that you linked. Here is an example of an M to M adapter.

(Picture Source: https://www.amazon.com/Danco-10524-Chrome-Aerator-Adapter/dp/B00FI6U81C/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=male+to+male+faucet+adapter&qid=1552209508&s=gateway&sr=8-6)

There are multiple sizes used for aerator attachments. Some of the most common include in metric sizes M22x1, M24x1 and M28x1. In USA sizes you will find 3/4"-27, 15/16"-27 and 55/64"-27. The first number being the diameter and the second the thread pitch designation. So take this into account when you select the proper adapter. Some adapters are actually designed to convert between these sizes including the one that you linked in your question.


Adding an outlet on a separate circuit in garage? Attached is image of my panel  in my garage. In the past I explored a possibility of adding a subpanel as I have few wood working machines and running the dust collect and planer trip the 15 amp circuit in the garage. I got great help from this forum but I never got to add the panel as the only thing I need is another outlet (120 or 240 either would be ok) on a different circuit.
So I am now considering 2 options -

Replace the 220v dryer breaker with a quad 20/30 breaker. This will help me give a 20 amp 220v breaker. The problem is I don’t find EATON quad breaker 20/30 combo in local stores anymore. I did find on eBay but there are 2 models - BRDC220230 and BQC220230. I am wondering what’s the difference between them and what other manufacturer circuit breaker can be used in my EATON panel. My panel seems like have BR style breaker (I don’t know what it means). The existing quad breakers are BQC series.
Another option I have is to splice an outlet (120v) from my media outlet dedicated circuit. I took this for my audio equipments but for now I only have 1 receiver and they never will be used align with wood working tool. This would mean I will need to ping tail the original wire and attached to the same breaker. I am assuming the outlet needs to be GFCI as it would be in garage. Is there any concern here?

Among these 2 options, wondering if there is any advantage/disadvantage if one over other assuming they both serve my purpose.
Thanks in advance.

Your panel is Circuit Total Limiting, apparently, so you'll want a BQC220230
From the labeling on your panel having references to rejection-type bus stabs, we can tell that your panel is what's known as a Circuit Total Limiting (CTL) electrical panel.  These were developed in the 70s to enforce the old NEC prohibition on having more than 42 circuits coming out of a single panel.  However, since that restriction was lifted in the 2008 NEC, the current Eaton panels have dropped the CTL feature, as they are listed and labeled to be double-stuffed to the gills.
The good news is that while they're no longer needed for new panels, Eaton still makes CTL tandem and quadruplex breakers in order to support existing BR CTL panels.  You'll want a BQC220230 for your situation; this provides a 2-pole 30A common trip breaker on the inner poles for your dryer circuit, while providing a common-trip on the outer two 20A poles as well.  This latter feature not only lets you run a 12/3 out to the garage for your new tools circuit, but also permits you to put 240V receptacles (NEMA 6-20R) on the circuit in addition to the 120V receptacles, with the small caveat that under NEC 2020, you'll need a "spa box" GFCI at the garage to provide GFCI protection for the mixed circuit.


Subpanel for finished basement: sizing, cable, installation advice Thanks in advance for advice!  I just finished framing my basement and am moving on to electrical.  Hoping for advice on the subpanel.  Main 200A Eaton panel is in the garage.  I'll need to run cable up into the attic, cross about half the house, then down into the utility room in the basement.  I haven't measured this yet, but I'm guessing about 80' of cable.  The basement is about 2200 sf with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a wet bar, living room, workout room, utility closet, and large storage area.  I haven't finished my drawings yet, but I'm guessing about 15 circuits if I do separate lights and receptacles in most rooms.  Mini-fridge, small countertop microwave, and a treadmill are the only notable loads.  Everything else will be pretty standard: 2 bathroom GFCIs, bar GFCIs, and a bunch of lighting and receptacle circuits.  No heat, range, freezer, AC, etc.

My research is telling me it's much better to "go big" and overdo these things, so I was thinking of installing a 100 amp panel with 24 spaces (48 circuits) from Square D, using a 100 amp breaker at the main panel, and running 1-0/1-0/1-0/2 SER since I'll be crossing insulation in the attic.  I also understand the subpanel will need a ground bar installed.  Is this overkill for my situation?  It's a large basement, but without a fridge, range, baseboard heaters, etc., am I overdoing it?  I definitely don't want to run out of space down the road, but I also don't want to spend $2+ per foot on cable (plus wrestle that monster) if half that would do the job.

Anyone have opinions or advice for me?  Also, do I sound like I know what I'm talking about enough to attempt this on my own and live to tell about it?  :-)  Thanks!

That 1/0 SER is good for 125A, so you might as well use it for all its worth

A 1/0 Al SER cable can handle 120A when landed on 75°C terminations, and we are allowed to round up to 125A by the 240.4(B) "round-up" rule as the next standard breaker size above 120A is 125A.  As a result of this, and the fact that a BR2125 is only $10-$15 more than a BR2100, along with the fact that the HOM2448L125PGC is a 125A panel to begin with (there is no 100A version in main lug), there is really no reason to go with anything less, although if you wanted to upsize the panel further, the HOM3060L225PGC is only $15 more.  (While you could run a 4/0 Al SER cable, you can't pull more than 125A out of your current panel anyway as the double frame breaker or subfeed lug required for a 200A feed takes up more space in your panel than you can make room for.)

Your grounding is good, but you'll need to remember that you'll need new breakers

While you're good to go on the one thing that often gets people in trouble with subpanels, namely grounding, as long as you keep your neutrals and grounds straight, thanks to the fact both panels mentioned above come from the factory with ground bars and a ground lug fitted already, you will have to remember that you'll need new Square-D HOMeline breakers for the circuits you're moving to your new panel, instead of being able to reuse the BR breakers you're pulling out of your existing panel.

TORQUE ALL LUGS TO SPEC

There's one more thing you'll need to do in order to ensure a reliable installation.  Your panel and breakers will have lug torque specifications labeled/marked on them (in inch pounds), and 110.14(D) in the 2017 NEC requires that you use a torque wrench or torque screwdriver to set the lug setscrews to that torque.  Even if your jurisdiction has not adopted the 2017 NEC yet, it's still a good idea anyway, since you don't want your electrical system to lose you the race, now, do you?


AC Condensate not draining from newish HVAC A few years ago I replaced my entire HVAC system with one similar size to my old one. I used a local contractor that I've had a long relationship with, who I've continued a maintenance contract with. For quite a while, I had a vague feeling that condensate wasn't coming out the pipe near my backdoor that had released quite a bit of water with the previous unit. This year's it's been more humid than ever, and I made a point to check on the drain pipe at multiple times you would expect condensate - and nothing. I asked the technician about it during my last check under the contract and he said he poured water in the pipe and it comes out so the drain is fine; and when I pressed him about where the moisture was going, he replied that the blower is probably drying up all the moisture. Does this make sense? I've had loads of water issues in my crawl space that I've been working hard to address and don't want to add to it with the AC. Should I call the management for another look, or hire another contractor to check it out?

If the drain works with water poured in it it is clear and his professional opinion sounds correct. If the water did not drain or there was water damage there would be a problem. My guess at this point is the new system is a higher efficiency unit with a better balanced evaporator so it may not produce as much water as a less efficient model. The big difference in newer units is the evaporator is not having the extremes of cold that creates more condensation due to the larger temp extremes of older units but creates the same btu's per hour by managing the Freon usually with a temperature controlled throttle valve where many older systems used a simple orifice. The throttle valve is a better way to keep the evaporator at a constant temp where the orifice has no feedback ant the evaporator temp gets colder while the compressor is running. This may be the reason you do not see the amount of water due to the tighter control.


Load considerations on framing members that are only attached to concrete? I am building out a workshop space in my basement, and want to put up framing on the walls, as shown here:

Specifically the left wall and the far wall, both of which have a lip. The foundation blocks are 8" deep (inside to outside) - 2" of concrete, 6" void, then 2" of concrete. Ideally, I would like to fasten 2x3's or 2x4's to the block using appropriate anchors. The framing members would extend from the lip up to near the top of the wall. My research has shown that a Concrete Sleve Anchor such as this: http://www.confast.com/products/concrete-sleeve-anchor.aspx is the best fastener for the job, and is rated sufficiently (1590lbs tension, 3060lbs shear).

Note: I am avoiding traditional framing with a header, full length 2x4 studs, and a footer resting on the basement floor, mostly because the basement floor is very uneven, and can flood in the spring.

What I would like to understand is:

How much load can 2x3's or 2x4's attached to concrete block support?
Is this different than simply summing up the fastener tolerances and accounting for safety margin, i.e. 1590lbs / 4 (safety) = 397lbs per stud?
Does the choice of stud (2x3 vs 2x4) AND the choice of orientation (long side vs short side facing out) matter in terms of supporting this load? If so, how?

How much load can 2x3's or 2x4's attached to concrete block support?

Typically a 2x on end can handle about 1250 PSI for doug fir.  This is about 6,000+ lb for a 2x4, 4,500+ lb for a 2x3.  Crushing wise, it depends on how often it is braced.  You anchor a 2x4 into a concrete wall  every 6" for 5' and I am sure it will actaully hold those loads.

  Is this different than simply summing up the fastener tolerances and accounting for safety margin, i.e. 1590lbs / 4 (safety) = 397lbs per stud?

Yes.  The 2x's can hold one load, the fasteners can hold another.  Typically you specify fasteners based on the actual loads to be held, not on the possible loads each stud can hold.

  Does the choice of stud (2x3 vs 2x4) AND the choice of orientation (long side vs short side facing out) matter in terms of supporting this load? If so, how?

Yes and No.  The failure mode for a 2x is usually buckling.  So putting it flat against the wall would make it stronger laterally by bracing it in the weak direction allowing more load before buckling.  But if you brace the 2x laterally via wood and face them out, this is a moot point.

But if you framing walls inside of a fully supported basement, why does any of this matter?  The walls are not supporting any other laod than the wall finish.  Just shoot concrete nails into P.T. members placed vertical on the wall to fur it in and cover a suitable finish.  Maybe I am missing something.


How deep should a fence post be with respect to the bottom of the concrete base? Seems like a simple question, but I have been searching for a while. Everything I find is about the depth of the hole for the concrete, not the depth of the post.
I want to know how far a post must go into a concrete hole. The concrete is well set, but has some muck in it. I need to know how deep does the post go, so that I know how much muck to clear.
Posts are wood. Post/hole width varies 2→3 inches (don't ask). Fence height will be about 4 feet.
So how much post needs to be in the concrete, so that the concrete can hold the post?

I think the Fence Bible described a method for putting a few inches of gravel at the bottom of the hole, resting the post on that for drainage, then pouring concrete.


Do I need an egress window in a basement studio apartment with two doors? I have a small studio apartment I want to rent in my basement. It has two exit doors, and block glass windows. First entry door is about 6 feet to the foot of the stairs (which leads to the main floor foyer/side door to the outdoors) and a second door straight into the laundry room(laundry room is adjacent to studio area). The studio's two doors that exit out of the studio are different escape routes, one facing north, the other west. The basement also has a family room for use to all units (upper, main, and basement), so I would like to put the egress window into the laundry room, so it can be utilized by the studio or anyone within the family room. Would this pass code to rent the studio, since each door leads to an exit area?

If I do need to put the egress window in the studio area, could it go into the studio bathroom? The bathroom already has a very large block glass window, so it would be more economically feasible than the old small windows in the open area of the studio.  I was also told that I might need an egress window for the family room as well ...so again, I thought the laundry room (which has a very large opening from the family room as well) is the best possibility to service both areas. House is in Detroit, Michigan.
Thank you!

The Code says: 1) “basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening”, 2) “where basements have more than one sleeping room, an emergency escape opening shall be required in each sleeping room”, 3) emergency escape and rescue openings shall open directly into a public way or into a side yard that opens directly to a public way”.  (See ICC R310.1)

Btw, the Code says from the sleeping room, not from an adjoining room like a laundry room, (which can be highly flammable. )

Btw, two exits into two separate exit systems does not qualify, unless one exit is in an approved fire rated exit system that leads directly to a public way.


Trane XR90 Furnace - 4 flashes "open limit device" I've read other posts on this useful forum and checked my unit as follows:

The filter is clean, the batteries in the thermostat are new, there are no loose wires. One thing I read and followed in another thread was to tap/jiggle the connector (I think it has 9 wires, including 2 yellow) at the bottom of the board. I did so and the unit begins working correctly and the house is nice and warm. However, this is not permanent and I have to jiggle to connector every few days. I'm trying to attach a picture of the connector, but don't see any "attach" button. Could there be something wrong with the connector or the wires leading to it? Or the board that the connector attaches to? Thanks!

I figured out the issue.  I was focused on air intake and never bothered to check outtake.  The lovely lady closed the vents in unused rooms hoping to force more air into the MBR.  Opening the registers in all rooms resolved the "open limit device" issue.


Broke dryer hose.... need advice Just got a new dryer and the door to my laundry room wouldn’t close due to the dryer so stupid me tried to push my dryer back closer to the wall and in the process I broke the hose and and bent the area on the back of the dryer the hose connects to.

Is this an easy fix and something I can do myself? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks so much!

You can straighten out the dryer tube with just a needle nose pliers. The dryer hose can be trimmed with just a heavy pair of scissors or tin snips if you have a pair.

Many dryers have additional vent exits. Check your owner's manual. Good luck.


Undersized AC - Options? Background: Our two-story house is about 3,000 square feet. When we bought it last year, it had two separate AC units, a 2.5 ton and a 4 ton.  They were both old and died last month.  We had them replaced with a single 5 ton unit, with two zones controlled by dampers (the original ductwork was merged into a single supply).  The contractor insisted that 5 tons (versus the original 6.5) would be fine since the new system was much more efficient.

It was very hot today (pushing 90) and I noticed that regardless of what I had either thermostat set to, it just kept getting hotter and hotter.  I felt cool air blowing out of the vents, but it simply wasn't cooling the house.

I got an emergency technician visit and he checked everything and asked me about the previous system.  He came back inside and said, "We screwed up."  It seems the 5 tons is not adequate for the heat load this house experiences.  Although the system is working perfectly, it just can't cool both zones at once.  As a temporary workaround, he suggested running just one zone at a time.  The warranty manager is going to call me tomorrow.

I want to understand the options. I thought the technician said the 5 ton unit we have is the "largest residential unit available", so replacing it with something bigger might not be possible.  What else could be done here?  Could a second condenser be added?  Is there some other way to beef up this system?

Hopefully the company will "make this right" as the technician said.  But given that they apparently made a mistake on sizing it, I'm not confident they'll make the best recommendation.

Any ideas?  Thanks!

I'm not a HVAC expert but a 5 ton unit sounds pretty large for a 3000sqft house.  You can probably approach this in one of two ways.  One is probably what the previous owner did and just throw more cooling capacity at the problem (two units, larger units, etc.).  Alternatively, you can start looking at ways to get more out of your existing unit.  Some things that might help:

Improve attic insulation
Improve attic airflow
If your windows are old, consider replacing them with more efficient windows
Find and plug sources of air leaks - doors, windows, electrical outlets and other exterior openings
Plant trees and shrubs to help shade the house
Install ceiling fans to help circulate the air
Add insulation to the exterior of the house (requires replacing siding usually)
Seal all duct work with proper HVAC tape to prevent leaks
Insulate duct work
Replace your air filter
Install an air exchanger

The benefit of trying some of the above is that they also help when heating.


Light bulb connection to the ceiling I wish to connect a light bulb connection (2 wire connection) to the ceiling but there are 3 wires:

1) Yellow/Green, 2) Blue, 3)Black

I live in Germany, which two wires do I connect ?

Who knows?  Europe is in the middle of  harmonizing their wiring standards.  There's a lot of old and new work out there.

In one of several old standards, black is neutral.  The new standard is blue for neutral.  What you know for sure is that green is ground.  The other two are hot and neutral.  If your lamp doesn't care, that may be enough.

If it does care, measure voltage between one of the wires and ground.   The hot will be around 230V to ground.  The neutral will be 0-2 volts.


Why is my AC only blowing out Ice cold air and freezing over AC lines? I've had a company come out and tell me the ac and furnace are ran from 2 different fans and they recharged the AC unit. However, prior to this the AC was still freezing over the lines. If I have the thermostat set to 80 for the AC it still blows out air so cold and it freezes over the lines and will not shut off until I unplug it from the main outlet. The inside temperature reads to the lowest of 60 degrees even if I have to set to 80 degrees it just will keep running. When I turn the air off from.the thermostat the ac unit itself will still be running outside but not blowing air inside. The furnace is only 4 years old the AC unit however is 23 years old. Not sure about the thermostats age.

If the outdoor unit continues running while the indoor blower is stopped it would indeed start looking like a freezer. If there's been work done recently on the thermostat and related wiring then it could be that a mistake was made which causes the compressor to run continuously. If this problem has developed spontaneously, a likely cause could be that the contactor in the outdoor compressor unit has welded itself closed. That's the equivalent of the power switch being stuck in the on position.

An HVAC contractor or other person comfortable with a volt meter should be able to identify pretty quickly whether the call for cooling is stuck on, or whether it's the contactor itself that has failed. There should be a pair of small-gauge wires going into the compressor unit. If there's a voltage showing between those two wires (about 24 volts ac), or if disconnecting one of them causes the compressor to stop running, then the call for cooling is stuck on -- a thermostat failure or a wiring problem would be likely. If instead there's no significant voltage between the two wires then the contactor is stuck and should be replaced.


Should I create my own faucet aerator? I installed some new "fancy" faucet, and am quite happy with it, except it lacks an aerator, and water easily splashes out of the sink. Obviously, this faucet is calling for an aerator. Unfortunately, the manufacturer doesn't sell aerators for this model, and my local hardware store doesn't carry any that would fit the rectangular end of the faucet (see picture below).

Short of replacing the faucet, how would you deal with this? Can I build myself a custom aerator? If so, how?

I found a company named Neoperl that makes a rectangular aerator which is what I believe you need:


How do I repair crumbling wall plaster? I found this in a closet behind something that a previous owner had nailed into a wall.  It's inside a closet, so it doesn't have to look pretty, I just don't want it to keep crumbling.  I was going to get some plaster adhesive and just fill it in.  Any other tips or ideas?

I have had a lot of success in the past by using a mixture of PVA Glue and water and then painting the solution over the crumbling area. The glue gets absorbed into the crumbling surface and stabilises it. Then you can refinish with a thin coat of filler or plaster. It saves a lot of work.


How can I repair a Whirlpool top load washer that leaks during the spin cycles? From bottom middle front. Continues dripping water after it stops and the tub is empty. Totally saturates 3 thick large bath towels.

I had this problem too. Found that on top of tub drain holes where clogged with lint and grime. Some water spills on top while filling and splashes up when washing. Then because holes are clogged, water runs to front and over a section designed to shed water at front so as not to spill over back where electrics are. Cleaned gunk out and poked small screwdriver through holes and no more leaks. Hope this helps.
Mick.


Can I replace a 30 amp breaker on my panel with a 25 amp for my new hot water heater? My New Hot Water Heater requires a 25 amp breaker rating at the panel. I currently have a 30 amp at the breaker at the panel for the hot water heater. Should I change it to a 25 amp?

Read the instructions carefully.   30A is an industry-standard convention in North America for tanked water heater circuits.  The NEC derating rules require you to provision service for 125% of the actual water heater draw; water heater manufactureres know this, and size their water heaters to take about 23 amps. (Which derates to just under 30 amps, voilà).

Underwriter's Laboratories (who pretty much writes the book on what is acceptable, and harmonizes that book with NEC), goes in lock step with this.  They certify the labeling and instructions as part of the UL listing (which is why instructions are often so bizarre, it's because they are copy-pasting instructions UL has approved in the past).  So I would expect approved instructions to state 23-ish and require a 30A breaker.

Because 30A circuits are so standard, and 25A breakes such an odd duck (and difficult to find, encouraging misuse of alien breakers), I think UL would expect poor compliance with any "change the breaker to 25A" instructions, and would push back on the water heater manufacturer to make the heater safe with a 30A breaker.

The only advantage I can see to a 25A breaker is if you are using 75C rated wires (not NM/Romex!!!), you could wire it with 12 AWG instead of 10 AWG.  But that would encourage another badness: up-breakering 12 AWG to 30A when the owner gets any other water heater on the market that of course requires 30A.

Any existing 30A circuit should be 10 AWG wire, and 25A is well within its limits.  So changing the breaker will suffice.