Why are my cabinets peeling and how do I fix it? I have a new apartment, but I noticed that my kitchen cabinets are suffering from what I can only call, "peeling". Here's an image to illustrate:

Why are my cabinets peeling? And, how do I fix this?

I'd recommend cleaning it up a bit, making sure it's totally dry and remove all the flakes of particle board that come off as you just rub it. Then treat it with some rotten wood stabilizer and sand the surface once dry. Clean the veneer really well, if you can without damaging it, lightly sand it.

Then apply contact cement to both surfaces and let dry.

Once dry, work from the point where the veneer began to peel towards the end that's totally detached. A j-roller won't be able to get into the tight curves, but perhaps you can use one around the outside edge. Just work it inward, applying lots of force as you press the two together. Go a little bit at a time so that you don't cause wrinkles. Use lots of force as you press down!

This should keep it together quite well.

The thing is, it'll happen to other cabinets and you'll waste a lot of time fixing this problem. Alternatively, you can replace them with solid wood doors (which are expensive) or even replace them with other crappy doors for relatively cheap that will last 5-10 years max. Ikea sells their doors separately, see here: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/kitchen/11479/


Do I need to ground my above ground pool / with saltwater system? I just bought a 21'x52" above ground pool. I am going to use a saltwater system with it. Do I need to ground this pool ?

You need to BOND the pool structure and any equipment (motors, etc) or metal parts associated with the water circulation system. You also need to bond the water itself. Ground rods are NOT required other than for a sub-panel (if installed outside the house).

Pools are quite complicated as far as the electrical requirements go. IMO this is NOT a DIY job and should really be done by a professional electrician experienced in this kind of work.


How do I insulate around a gas fireplace without tearing it apart? My home has a gas fireplace that we do not use very often. It is in a "bump out" on the back of the house.  In the winter, cold air flows through the vents under the fireplace and if  you feel the tile around the fireplace, it is cold.  Is there a good method to insulate around it without tearing apart the fireplace?  What type of insulation should I use that would not be a fire hazard.

Without a picture of your fireplace, I couldn't tell for sure, but I would look in to fire brick. It is a near perfect insulator since it is a light brick with lots of air bubbles (air insulates).

Check here:

http://www.google.com/products?q=fire+brick&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=8n1YTJmlCd6Knwf7hZS2BA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CDIQrQQwAA

..or at a local fireplace store.


WDT710PAYM4 Whirlpool Dishwasher part needed I am looking to replace a part on my dishwasher. It's called the cover latch in the manual. I can't seem to find the part number listed anywhere.

I was finally able to happen upon the whirlpoolparts.com website and entered what I thought was the correct name of "cover latch". It ended up being the whole assembly called "Whirlpool Dishwasher Detergent Dispenser WPW10195175".


How do I open my garage door without a remote from outside? 1993 Craftsman garage door opener; my wife must have put something up against the garage door keypad and inadvertently triggered the vacation mode button - now we're locked out.

The remote control is disabled; none of the buttons work. Checked the batteries - they're fine. Tried tripping the breaker; no change.

The problem is, the garage has no door (just the garage door) and just 2 small windows that we could fit through if i broke the glass.

Is there any way to disable the vacation mode from a remote control?

I'd really rather not break the glass for obvious reasons. If i have to do something like that, i'll cut a hole in the wall, get in, open the garage and put a door where i cut the hole.

Any other ideas?

It sounds like the controller needs to be reset and the remotes reprogrammed.  Usually this requires physical access to the opener, but if you have a hardwired remote it might be possible to pair it via the keypad. Check the manual for your opener.
But back to the problem of how to open it. If the garage does not have an alternative access there should be a manual cable release which disconnects the door from the opener chain so that you can manually open it.  Often this is in the form of a small key near your garage door.  With the key you can open the lock and pull the manual release.

(source: garage-door-automation.co.uk)
If the installation was done correctly, you have one of these you just need to find it.  If you don't have the key a locksmith should be able to open it for you.
If you do not have a manual release then I think you will have to resort to breaking a window.


kitchen backsplash tile grout or caulking We have tiles at the kitchen backsplash from the top of the countertop (quartz; has a 3" upturn) to the underside of upper cabinets. Should there be grout or caulking at the horizontal joints where it hits the countertop and cabinet underside? Thanks!

You might push soap or grime into the gap at the bottom of the cabinets when cleaning the tiles, so it's probably a good idea to seal the gap. I didn't do this in my kitchen and I think intelligent life is evolving in there.

I'd use silicone caulking instead of grout at the these locations, because it's more flexible, and I'm convinced that there is always some tiny flexing or movement between the cabinet or the counter top and the wall.


What is This Thin Metal Wire? Do you know what this thin metal wire is? It's attached to the water line in my garage. It looks like it was cut off at the end. I can't see where the other end of the cable ends up - it runs behind the wall.

It's your electrical service ground, comes from your panelbox.


Is it wise (or even code-compliant) to cut an access panel for my bathtub drain? I am installing a replacement bathtub.  I've decided that I need to slightly lengthen my overflow pipe, and it would be kind of nice to be able to inspect that area well for leaks, before I put up the replacement wallboard and tile.

The other side of the wall behind the bathtub plumbing is a towel closet. I was considering the idea of cutting a square access panel in the sheetrock, at approximately where I've marked the picture with a red rectangle.

Are there any building code regulations I should be concerned with?  And is this generally a good/bad idea?  Are there best practices?

This is in the southern U.S.

This is actually a good idea to a very good idea.  I know of no code to restrict this.


How do I remove an underground paper hornets nest? I have this huge (paper plate sized) hornets' (I think they are hornets) nest. The property has many vole holes and is about 30-40 feet from our drinking well.

What is the most appropriate way to handle this? My concerns are escape passages / tunnels and chemicals making their way to our drinking water. We also have a dog who plays in that yard.

Yellow Jacket Hornet nests are seasonal in nature so you can try one of several methods.

Wait it out till fall or winter and dig the nest out once the colony has died. Fix the terrain so there is no ground void that can be used to reestablish a nest next year.
Try a bit faster approach, wait till after dark and dust the nest with a powder of boric acid and pyrethrin which will take time to be disbursed in the nest by the hornets and may take a couple of applications. The combination should be bio-safe as the boric acid will bind in the soil before getting down to the water table. Avoid getting stung, don't shine any lights directly into the opening. A wetter, messier solution is mint oil mixed in a hot, soapy water solution sprayed over as much of the nest as you can get at, but damp solutions don't always work as well.
Fastest, have a professional use a metered amount of Sevin, Deltamethrin or similar dust insecticide accurately dispensed into the nest. Have them use the lest likely to contaminate ground water.

University of Idaho document with underground nest cross-section


Will fiberglass insulation grow mold? (Florida) Followup to this question

one of the comments says that fiberglass can trap moisture and lead to mold/mildew. I did some research myself and found other sources saying the same.

This worries me -- since I live in Florida (very humid all year round) so should I avoid fiberglass insulation entirely in my 2x4 framed home, and opt for foam board, even at the sacrifice of r-value?

This question could get flagged as opinion based but here goes anyway. I live in South Florida and have been in hundreds of attics with fiberglass insulation and have never seen any problems. Yes, there is a lot of humidity but if the attics are vented with soffits, etc., then the humidity doesn't cause a moisture problem. I had a roof leak and some of my fiberglass insulation got wet. I fixed the leak and monitored the insulation and it dried out in a day or two and did not compress. fiberglass insulation has been proven to be an excellent insulator. I have read some articles that warn about fiberglass insulation but most are from companies that sell something different.


Name of accessory to hold rope together? What's the name of this accessory that holds two pieces of rope together?

Rope clamp.  A rope crimping sleeve also performs the same task.


If I'm replacing a range with an oven and cooktop, do I have to change the breaker? My old range is on a 60 amp circuit. I'm replacing the range with an oven (40 amp) and cooktop (30 amp).

I currently have a Siemens 60 amp breaker and label states awg 6-4.  I want to replace it with a 70 amp breaker where label also states awg 6-4.  So is it ok to change the breaker from 60 to 70 without changing the old wire?

Don't know size of wire. But I assume is 6. So if it is 6, do I need to change the wire?

Update:  Thank you for everybody's reply. I don't know if this info helps. The cooktop is 8300 watts and the oven is 6325 watts. I currently have a 60 amp breaker. Can I just use the 60 amp breaker and not even changing it to 70 amp?   Cause that would be the best option for me.

This isn't just an adding job

Your assumption that your oven & cooktop combination requires a 70A breaker is actually incorrect -- this is due to the 220.55 demand factors in the NEC, as it's pretty implausible that the oven will be going at full broil and all four cooktop elements will be on full blast all day long on other than very rare occasions.  (That, and neither of your appliances require a dedicated branch circuit in their installation instructions.)

Applying the logic of table 220.55, note 4:

  Branch-Circuit Load. It shall be permissible to calculate the branch-circuit load for one range in accordance with Table 220.55. The branch-
  circuit load for one wall-mounted oven or one counter-mounted cooking unit shall be the nameplate rating of the appliance. The branch-circuit load
  for a counter-mounted cooking unit and not more than two wall-mounted ovens. all supplied from a single branch circuit and located in the same
  room, shall be calculated by adding the nameplate rating of the individual appliances and treating this total as equivalent to one range.

to our circuit gets us a total unfactored load of 14.625kW.  Since this is over 12kW, we must then apply 220.55 note 1 to the 8kW column C value for a single range to get the factored load:

  Over 12 kW through 27 kW ranges all of same rating. For ranges individually rated more than 12 kW but not more than 27 kW, the maximum
  demand in Column C shall be increased 5 percent for each additional kilowatt of rating or major fraction thereof by which the rating of individual ranges exceeds 12 kW.

Applying this logic gives us a 15% increase in demand, or 8*1.15 = 9.2kW, which is well within the capacity of a 60A branch circuit!  (In fact, you could run this combo off of a 50A branch circuit if you so chose.)  Given that the use of 220.55 factoring for range circuit sizing is expressly permitted by the NEC in 422.10(A), paragraph 4:

  Branch circuits and branch-circuit conductors for
  household ranges and cooking appliances shall be permitted to be in accordance with Table 220.55 and shall be sized in accordance with 210.19(A)(3).

we can safely say that you don't need to change your breakers here, as the factored load is considered the "maximum load served" for the purposes of 210.19(A)(3).


How do I eliminate one 3 way switch and replace it with a single pole switch? I have knob and tube wiring in our 110 year old house. There are 2 3 way switches that control one light in the house and also supplies power to the garage. There are 4 overhead wires going to the garage so I am not sure if the 3 way in the garage has the main hot wire going to the 3 way or if it is in the kitchen 3 way. How can I tell which one is the main feed and then replace the kitchen 3 way with a single pole switch?

A modification of longneck's process: (not enough rep to comment)

Set the switches so the light is on.
Turn the breaker off
Remove the garage switch; use a test meter to figure out which leads the switch is connecting.  Connect those two wires permanently.  You are removing this switch from the circuit.  Cap the other wire.
Remove the other switch; use a test meter to figure out which leads are connected by this switch, hook them up to a single pole switch.  Cap off the remaining one.

To figure out where the power really flows in this circuit, you have to power this up safely, with the terminals exposed, and use a neon tester figure out which is hot, when the switch(s are) is off.


How do I choose a circular saw? I've made do with hand tools for everything including the rare plywood job for several years now and I want to buy a good circular saw. I will not use it very often, but when I do it will be for serious work like plywood sheets or stair treads.

Is there any specific features or brands I should look for? I want a relatively lightweight saw (probably means a sidewinder) but powerful enough to cut hardwood and possibly sheet metal easily. I would also prefer one where things like blade depth are easy to adjust.
PS I'm left-handed if that makes a difference.

As far as brands go, I trust DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Skil.  There are probably more, but those are the ones I've had experience with.

Are you going for a cordless saw, that can be more portable, and good for the occasional plywood cutting project, or a corded one?  Usually the corded ones have more power, and a higher duty cycle.


How to determine the type of wall on which I'm putting up a shelf? I'd like to put up a small shelf. I have never tackled any kind of DIY project before so this is a first (I don't even have the necessary tools yet!) and I have a rather newbie question: Having read a few how-to guides, I've learned it's important to know the type of wall onto which you're mounting the shelf. But I really have no idea how to tell. How do I determine what kind of wall it is?

There are basically two things you have to determine - what is the supporting structure and what is the surface material.

First the support - in most private homes this is commonly wood frame, such as two by fours (boards, called studs, nominally 2 inches (5 cm) wide by 4 inches (10 cm) thick, but actually about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) by 3.5 inches (8.9 cm)).  These run floor to ceiling and are most commonly spaced 16 inches (41 cm) apart, but in a few cases, 24 inches (6.1 cm) apart.

In some private homes and in recent apartment construction, the support is sometimes steel studs.  In cross section, these are thin walled boxes of steel that imitate, in size, function and placement, the wooden studs listed above.

In heavier construction, the support may be masonry - brick, poured concrete, concrete block, cinder block or tile blocks. These types of support are usually continuous across the whole wall.

Now the surface - in most recently built homes this is wallboard (also called drywall or plasterboard) ranging from about 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) thick to 3/4 inches (1.9 cm) thick. Most often, this is a layer of plaster with paper surfaces on both sides. Some newer constructions use paperless board.

In some older homes and in large buildings, the surface may be solid plaster that has been applied wet over either thin wooden horizontal slats or metal mesh.

In a few homes, the surface may be panelling of some sort, usually a type of plywood.  Some very old, cheaper construction may use a cardboard-like material that has very little strength (not common).

Determining the type - You can carefully remove the cover at a wall switch or outlet to see if the material is obvious at the edge of the box holding the switch or receptacle. Turn off the power to that outlet (or the whole house, if you are not sure) before removing the cover. If you see a paper surface on front and back, with plaster in between, it is wallboard. If you see an indication of wood strips or metal mesk behind the plaster, it is a solid plaster.  If it is plywood, you have paneling.

Perhaps more important in hanging things is to determine the supporting structure. Again at an outlet or switch, you may be able to see either wood or masonry behind the surface material, but this is often difficult.

An alternate method (that will help you later in hanging) is to see if there are hollows behind most of the surface material, indicating a stud structure.  This can be done by poking a series of small holes horizontally in an inconspicuous area with an awl or small drill (with plaster walls, do not use the awl method).  If you hit something solid after you are through the surface material, move three or four inches to the side and try again.  If it is still solid, you probably have some form of masonry.  If it is hollow, you probably have a stud structure (wood or steel).

If it is a stud structure, you need to find out if it is wood or steel - if the awl or drill can be pushed (with some difficulty) deeper into the stud, it is probably a wooden frame structure.  If it seems very firm, it is probably a steel stud structure.

Once you determine the nature of the wall, you then can make decisions about how to hang (but that is another question).


240 volt biphasic to 240 volt monophasic I want to use a monophasic 230/240 volts chainsaw coming from Europ in USA. I have biphasic 240 Volt outlet in my new US house. Can I just connect the two 125 volts phases to get a 240 volts monophasic?
On the chainsaw there are two wires: one is phase and the other is neutral.
Thank you for your help.

Thank you for your answers. I have been using electric chain saws for more than 20 years as a non professionnel. Less maintenance and less noise.

Of course I would use proper outlets for the connections.
My questions are:
1- Is there a risk that I damage any part of the installation or switches panel if I connect the two phases together in a European female plug  in order to plug in my chainsaw?
2- Do I risk to damage the chainsaw if I plug it in that female plug and start it?
Thank you again for your help.

The two 120V legs of household wiring are 180 degfees out of phase with each other, which is how we get 240V for stoves and workshops and the like. Yor really (REALLY!) should have a proper 240V outlet installed for that tool to plug into, preferably with a 240V GFCI since you will presumably be working outside.

Remember that an electric chainsaw is just as dangerous as a gas chainsaw, plus the risk of cutting the power cord. Proper safety equipment and training is essential.


Right-Angle Adapters and Plug for Air Conditioner Exhaust Full picture of AC with exhaust tube.

Exhaust port through window.

As shown, I have an air conditioner which has an exhaust hose which moves out hot air through the window and outside. I did a fairly good job weather-sealing it, and after some recent heavy rains, the weather-proofing has worked extremely well :)
I've been trying to look for a couple things, for which I have been unsuccessful.
First, it would be really nice to have a sort of "cap" or "plug" that I can use to close the port when the air conditioner tube is not connected. During the winter, I could attach the plug and move the air conditioner into the closet, freeing up some floor space.
Second, I've also been looking for a set of right-angle slim adapters to make it possible to put the air conditioner itself much closer to the wall. The hose currently doesn't turn enough to make this possible.
I've tried searching with a lot of different terms. Do right angle adapters and plugs/caps exist, and what are they called?

Look for the periscope vents at your local home stores or online. This particular one's from Appliance Parts 365, which I have absolutely no ties to.
End caps are also available at home stores too, next to the left handed screwdrivers.


Why are carpenters' pencils flat? My assumption is that it's so they don't roll away.  But if a carpenter spends the majority of his/her day working on a flat surface, a regular pencil wouldn't seem to have the tendency to get away from them.

According to wikipedia, it's so they don't roll away::

  A carpenter pencil (carpentry pencil, carpenter's pencil) is a pencil
  that has a body with a rectangular or elliptical cross-section to
  prevent it from rolling away. Carpenter pencils are easier to grip
  than standard pencils, because they have a larger surface area. The
  non-round core allows thick or thin lines to be drawn by rotating the
  pencil. Thin lines are required for high precision markings and are
  easy to erase, but thick markings are needed to mark on rough
  surfaces. The lead is strong to withstand the stress of marking on
  such surfaces. The pencil is robust to survive in a construction
  environment, for example when placed in a bag together with heavy
  tools. The core is often stronger than in other pencils. Carpenter
  pencils are also used by builders, because they are suitable for
  marking on rough surfaces, such as concrete or stone. This shape and
  lead density aid in marking legible lines with a straight edge that
  are clear and easy to follow with a saw blade.

Though it's possible that there's some historical precedent involved:

  The flat pencil is one of the oldest pencil types. The first versions
  were made by hollowing out sticks of juniper wood. A superior
  technique was discovered: two wooden halves were carved with a groove
  running down them, a plumbago stick placed in one of the grooves, and
  the two halves then glued together—essentially the same method in use
  to this day.

The "flat so it doesn't roll" theory is also supported by this article on Carpenters Pencils at PencilPages.com

  A carpenter's pencil has at least two essential characteristics which
  distinguish it from other types of specialty pencils. First, the shape
  of a carpenter's pencil prevents it from rolling, even when placed on
  a steep sloping roof. The most popular shape seems to be a flat,
  octagonal style. Secondly, the lead must be strong enough to make a
  heavy mark and to withstand the stresses of carpentry, which
  frequently requires marking on very coarse surfaces. The leads are
  usually wide and flat.


Bowed laminate flooring on slab: How to proceed? I recently bought a house with laminate flooring in a partially-below-grade room that sits on a concrete slab.  The owners ripped out carpeting in the room and installed the laminate prior to putting the house on the market.  The house is ~40 years old, and the owners (who were the original owners) claim that the carpet never appeared to be moist during that time.

Subsequent to our going under contract on the house but prior to settlement, there was a lot of rain and the laminate apparently started bowing.  The sellers (without consulting us first) decided that the problem was due to moisture absorbing into the slab, so they replaced the gutter above the room, re-graded the side of the house, installed a French drain, and replaced the bowed floor boards.  I have now been living in the house for about a month, during which we've received a lot of rain, but everything seemed to be fine.  That is, until a few days ago when we received a downpour of about 2 or 3 inches of rain in the span of about 2 hours.  A couple days later I noticed that some of the floor boards had started to bow.  It is in a relatively isolated area, approximately in the same place (I am told) where they had previously bowed.  Therefore, I am assuming this is not due to expansion gap issues.

We are contacting the contractors who did the work for the previous owners to see if they have a warranty/guarantee, however, in the event that that does not work, what is the next step?  Could it be that the French drain and gutter modifications were insufficient?  We don't want to replace the floor boards just to have this happen again in another few months...

My first thought is that laminate flooring on top of concrete is seldom a good idea, especially if you're in an area where basements are common. There are ways to make it work, all of which require some subflooring and a waterproof membrane, but one of the cardinal rules of carpentry is that wood does not touch concrete, for exactly the reason you are seeing; concrete absorbs water, and will wick it into the wood which will then swell (and eventually rot, if it cannot breathe). You also cannot nail directly into the slab, so forget about the standard installation method with a flooring nailer to secure the planks. So, if you are going to stick with the laminate, you MUST have a waterproof but breathable barrier such as TyPar or Tyvek between the concrete and any wood product. That may include running it up the side of the wall for a few inches either behind the baseboards or even behind the drywall of the room. A plastic sheet such as vapor barrier is a no-no; it will trap both water and air, preventing the wood breathing and accelerating rot if and when water does get under it. You should probably also have an OSB subfloor, so you have something to nail the boards down into.

If all of this is present under your floor and the floor is still bowing, I would go ahead and pull up your baseboard and check the expansion gap. There should be AT LEAST 1/4" between the sides or ends of the board and the wall. I would also feel the drywall and/or studs behind that; do they look or feel damp? If so, your problem is actual water leakage; water is somehow soaking or leaking through the roof or exterior wall in this area and dripping or seeping down to the floor. To fix the floor, you must first fix the leak, or it's just going to happen again with the next heavy rain.


Tape that is Safe for Paper Laminate I have cabinets that are covered with paper laminate.  I need to paint the surrounding walls.  Blue painter tape removes the color of the laminate.

What type of tape can I safely use that won't damage the laminate or remove the color?

Did you try Scotch blue masking tape for delicate surfaces? I couldn't find it on the Home Depot web site (better than it used to be but still is bad) but you can read all about it and get it from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Delicate-Surface-70-Inch/dp/B000BPPIL0?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000BPPIL0


What could be causing my gas furnace to make a loud noise? I have  a comfort air natural gas furnace when it call for heat,their is a loud boom noise,could the hot surface ignitor have a crack or needs replacing?

My gas furnace boomed like that until I took the cover off, brushed, vacuumed and blew out the burner box, then lightly wire brushed the ignitor electrodes.

A dirty burner box can cause booming.


What does "Range" Mean in Electrical Circuits? The switching have been tripping a lot at my apartment, sometimes an entire wall is completely powerless, but the rest of the rooms are just fine.

Usually, I just need to turn the switch off and on to regain electricity in that area of the house.

There are a few things, though, that I don't understand about the circuit shown below:

For example, I don't know what "Range" means, I know that "GFI" means Ground Fault Interrupter, but I don't know if it helps at all to turn the switch on/off

Any clarification will be greatly appreciated!

A "Range" is a freestanding combination oven/cooktop device.


Sprinkler valve not turning on by automatic timer I just programmed my sprinkler settings for Spring. I have back and front zones. 1-5 in the back, 6-8 in the front.
I noticed that station 6 is not turning on by the timer. It reads Err.
Here's what I've tried:

Station 6 turns on manually at the valve without the timer
At the timer, I took the 6 wire and doubled up on the 1 station. Timer read Err.
At the valves, I connected the 6 wire to the 7 wire/valve. I ran 7, and timer read Err.

Seems like any time station 6 is involved, the timer will read Err.
What kind of problem does this point to?

You have done good testing. Almost certainly the electric solenoid at the valve is defective, with a small chance the wire has a short.
Many designs of them can be replaced (leaving the rest of the valve in place).


Stove burner on indicator light still on? I have a simple 5 year old stove with 4 burners. Recently the light came on while cooking (burner sensor light), but has yet to turn off. It's an electric stove.

Is the light broken and needs repair? Or is there something worse happening (electricity is still being fed but the burners don't heat up?).

What are the first ways to start figuring out this problem?

Those lights are driven by thermostat switches in the glass top surface. Sometimes there is only one, sometimes there is one for each burner. You'll need to open the stove to figure out what kind you have, and then disconnect them one by one to figure out which one is stick. From there you should be able to order a replacement.


why do i get cold water during the shower every time the pump kicks on I just had a new 50 gal electric water heater with a new 4 gal expansion tank installed. On a submersible well pump. I have hammering every time the pump kick on which happens every time any water is used. I turns on in 10-20 seconds, which causes the shower water to get cold 2 seconds after the pump kicks on and stays cold till the pump kicks off.
It give you about 3 seconds of hot water till the pump kicks on again. Very hard to take a shower.  I have replaced the D square 40-60 pressure switch and have the expansion tank set at 37. Not sure what else to check to stop the hammering and the cold water during the shower!

I would check the piping to the new hot water tank to make sure that the installer did not switch the cold inlet and hot outlet. What you explain suggests that the installer moved the cold water inlet to the hot water side so that when the well pump kicks on the cold water is being delivered into the hot supply piping from  the tank and not into the cold inlet supply. If you could, post pictures of the tanks piping and label the pipes.


Fill the gap between shower wall and splash guard I’m trying to install a bathtub splash guard along the lines of this answer. However, my bathtub is one of those pre-molded drop-in units where the shower wall corners are rounded. Also, things are not entirely square. The vertical surface of the plexiglass splash guard is 11” long and 1/2” wide. This is the surface I need to seal against the enameled tub. But with the splash guard flush to the horizontal surface of the tub the gap to the shower wall varies from 1/4” at the bottom to 1/2” at the top of the splash guard.

The splash guard came with a tube of ASI 502 100% RTV Silicone. I’m hesitant to use this product directly to try and fill such a large gap. Anyone have experience doing this? Or suggestions for alternative methods?

I have to tell you that that product is just not made for the application on the type of tub and tub surround that you have. If you were to try to start cutting it to fit against the tub corner and to the surround above that you would cut away the half inch edge of the splash guard leaving just the thin part to try to seal to the wall.

If I were you I would use a different approach to this. Secure a suitable sized piece of 1/2 inch thick Lexan plastic to use for a splash guard. Then cut that to fit against the form of the tub and surround. This will give you a full 1/2 inch bonding surface on all the edges. Then you can use a silicon sealer or RTV to secure that in place.

The picture below is an attempt to show you how to mark the Lexan piece so that know where to cut it.

A small block with parallel edges (red lines) can be used against the surround and tub sides (white lines) to trace a marking (green lines) over onto the Lexan piece (blue lines).

Some folks may want to use thin cardboard to create a cutting template to get the shape correct. You can still use the parallel sided block technique to transfer the shape to the cardboard.


Are an outlet and a light bulb at the main electrical panel required? I've heard that the main electrical panel needs a GFCI outlet right next to it, and it also needs a switch to an overhead light.   But I can't find anything on the net to confirm.

No
There's nothing in the NEC that demands a power outlet or switched light be installed by the panel. Indeed, some outdoor installations would make that impractical.
The caveat here is that a panel might be located somewhere that needs a GFCI outlet because of the location, not the presence of the panel. For instance, if your panel is in your basement (sometimes considered a wet zone), and you need an outlet in that room, it might be most economical to put an outlet like that next to the panel. Local codes might demand a light for the room as well.


Home not cooling at night Recently, we've started using the AC less for cost and environmental reasons. When it gets below 82 degrees (F)  at night, we open the windows. My understanding is that the cool air from outside should eventually replace the warm air in the house.

This generally has worked ok the past few months, but recently, it seems to be less effective. Last night, it got down to 76 degrees around 9 PM, 73 degrees when I woke up at 7 AM, but the temperature in the house didn't drop at all from 80 degrees according to our thermostat, which was set to circ with the AC completely turned off. All windows in the house were open. The thermostat is in the front part of the house, a 1,200 sq foot ranch. (This part of the house is an open kitchen/living area with eight windows, so there should be plenty of airflow.) We do not have an attic above that part of the house, but we do have an attic through the rest of the house.

We live in a suburb of Philadelphia, for climate information. It has been pretty hot lately. Is this due to hotter weather recently, a thermal mass problem, airflow problem, inaccurate thermostat, something else? I'm new to passive cooling, but I feel like with a 7 degree difference between outside and inside, the temp should have dropped at least a degree or two. Not sure what to make of this exactly. Any insight would be great.

Here's what may be happening...

At night, heat stored in the roof and walls due to solar gain soaks into the home's interior. This is balanced to some extent by cooling from outside air flowing through the home. Three outcomes can result:

The home cools somewhat if the inside/outside air temperature differential is substantial, and if there's a breeze to move air at a significant rate.
The home stays at the same temperature if there's not enough breeze and/or the temperature differential is small. Heat soak and cooling are essentially balanced.
The home actually warms, especially on the upper levels of a multi-level home, due to heat soak. This occurs if there's little or no breeze and the temperature differential is small.

The change you've noticed is probably related to lighter overnight winds and slightly reduced differential. If you don't have a differential of at least 10 degrees, and the wind is calm, you'll probably want to bite the bullet and keep the a/c on. Run circulating fans and/or the furnace fan to keep all areas of the home comfortable.

If you do open the home up in questionable conditions, run box or dedicated window fans to exhaust the home overnight. Run fans inward in sleeping rooms for maximum comfort.


How best to repair a cavity in the base of a retaining wall I'm looking for some pointers on how best to go about repairing a hole and cavity in slate wall. The wall is the retaining wall at the rear of a house. Above and behind the wall there is a garden. The wall itself is about 10 feet high and is made of slate. There is quite a quantity of ground water that flows through the base of this wall. The previous owners had built a very poorly constructed extension and in the process they created quite a few holes in the walls.

The hole itself is about 2 feet in length and slopes backwards about 1 to 1.5 feet and reaches up behind the remaining stones. I have begun by built a reinforced concrete base to level the base of the cavity. I have embedded short sections of narrow pipe into this to provide drainage points. But I stuck as to how best to fill the cavity and build support back into the base of the wall.

Any help or pointers would be gratefully received.

Wow...there’s a lot of issues: 1) height, 2) non-reinforced wall, 3) load bearing, 4) moisture

1) This is a tall wall at 10’ or so. That means if it is a true retaining wall, it has a lot of stress on it if it’s load bearing, moisture bleeding through the wall, etc.

2) This is a “gravity retaining wall”. That is to say it’s a non-reinforced wall. Non-reinforced walls that high generally need to be quite thick (heavy) at the bottom...like 3’ - 4’ thick...or the interior of the wall is poured in place concrete with reinforcement.

3) If the wall is load bearing, it complicates the repair, because it needs to be sturdy and permanent and may need to transfer seismic loads or high wind resistance.

4) If there is substantial water coming through the wall, the wall needs to be strong enough to resist the water pressure or be designed to divert the water or let the water pass through the wall and then be diverted.

If water is allowed to pass through the wall, it must be controlled so it doesn’t undermine the footings and/or stay in the crawl space.

So, before You start, I’d verify that it’s a non-reinforced wall so the repair does not need to be reinforced, verify if moisture should be allowed to pass through wall so it can be controlled, etc. If those things apply, I’d clean all surfaces to receive mortar, use exterior grade mortar...probably a Type M mortar, then carefully layout the pieces so the can fit (or be cut to fit) the opening. Do not leave voids in the opening. Completely fill the void with slate material or mortar.


Is this safe extractor fan wires exposed bathroom We have had an extractor fan put in our bathroom by our landlord, but there are exposed wires behind the fan, which is directly next to the shower. It's connected to the light switch with no isolation on or off with the light. Is this safe, the wire is red. picture is the top of the fan thanks

The extractor fan should have a junction box for the splice. There should be a cable like Romex or conduit encasing individual wires. As this is a rental, in the US electrical work in most jurisdictions is required to be done by a licensed electrician or possibly a handyman if it was a replacement,
From your description it would not meet code.
A photo of the wiring would get a better answer.


How long does sealing a driveway take? I've found a number of videos and how-to guides online, but they're all lacking an answer to this basic question: how much time should I budget to do it?  The repair work (filling cracks and holes) I'm not so worried about, as that time can be spread over a few days, but for the actual application I get the impression that it's best to do that all at once.

I found an estimate of "1 or 2 hours for an average size driveway", but "average" is a pretty ambiguous term.  My driveway is approx. 2500 ft^2, an average driveway might be 400 ft^2 (???), so should I plan on 6-8 hours with 2 people working on it?

6-8 hours with 2 people sounds like it'd be about right to me, but I don't have experience in such things.  2500 ft^2 would definitely be above average in my book, that is like 10 ft wide by 250 ft long. I'd expect that a normal drive way would be 15-20 feet long.


How do I fix my double tapped outside electric panel? I recently had a 4 point inspection and the inspector detected an electric hazard.

As shown on the picture the power line goes from the meter to the panel with the main switch and from there into the house.

Underneath is a second panel that "hooks" into the first panel causing the double tap.

Currently only my sprinkler system is connected to the second panel but I am planning to get a pool so ideally I would like to add the pool pump, lighting and a current generator (Endless Pool) to that panel.

My house is located in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Edit: Here are additional details from the inspection report

What should I do?

To simply look at this situation and immediately call it a violation, is incorrect.  While it may indeed be a violation, more investigation is required.
At the end of section 110.14(A) in the National Electrical Code (NEC), there is this short paragraph.

NEC 2008
110.14 Electrical Connections.
(A) Terminals. ...Terminals for more than one conductor and terminals used to connect aluminum shall be so identified.

Which means if the terminal allows multiple conductors, it should be labeled somewhere either on the terminal itself or in the documentation inside the panelboard.  So make sure you read all of the labels inside the panelboard, before marking this situation as a violation.
However, Section 408.41 of the NEC, clearly says that the grounded (neutral) terminal block is a violation.

408.41 Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that
is not also used for another conductor.

There is an exception to this section, but it does not apply in this situation.
But wait, there's more...  Section 90.4 of the NEC, allows the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) to waive requirements or permit alternative methods.

90.4 Enforcement. ...The authority having jurisdiction for enforcement of the Code has the responsibility for making
interpretations of the rules, for deciding on the approval of
equipment and materials, and for granting the special permission
contemplated in a number of the rules.
By special permission, the authority having jurisdiction may waive
specific requirements in this Code or permit alternative methods where
it is assured that equivalent objectives can be achieved by
establishing and maintaining effective safety.

There is also 90.2(C), which may fit your situation better.

90.2(C) Special Permission. The authority having jurisdiction for enforcing this Code may grant exception for the installation of
conductors and equipment that are not under the exclusive control of
the electric utilities and are used to connect the electric utility
supply system to the service entrance conductors of the premises
served, provided such installations are outside a building or
terminate immediately inside a building wall.

It may also be important to note, that the installation is only subject to be compliant with the currently adopted code.  Which means if this was installed before these codes were adopted, this could be a legitimate installation.
The best thing for you to do, would be to contact a local licensed Electrician. Ask them to take a look, and make recommendations as to how this situation should be handled.  If you contact the local electrical inspectors office. They should be able to tell you when the work was completed and approved, and by whom. They should also be able to find any special notes supplied by the inspector, that would indicate if the inspector gave special permission in this situation.  If the work was completed by an unlicensed Electrician, the homeowner may be responsible for the repairs. But this would completely depend on your location, as well as many other legal factors that I will not discuss here.
Fixing this is not a DIY task.


Permanently marking a table after finishing I just finished building a patio table that has a satin spar varnish finish. It turned out well but now my wife is asking if there is a way for my boys to permanently write their names or initials on it.  My first thought was woodburning but I am not sure that would work because of the varnish.

Nail polish. Waterproof, durable, comes in a wide variety of colors, and it already includes a small brush.


How can I blend sanded cedar into the surrounding darker wood with a polyurethane finish? I applied unfinished cedar tongue and groove wood, to my ceiling and I applied one coat of minwax fast drying clear polyurethane to it.

I noticed that one of the sections turned a light grey and had streaks from the roller. So I sanded them and accidentally sanded deeper into the cedar wood.
However, since the cedar claims to be unfinished I did not think it would make a difference once I applied a 2nd coat.

Although, as you can see in the picture the light sanding marks are still very visible and make the ceiling look very patchy in that section. What is very strange is that the marks are not as visible if I stand right below it.  Any suggestions on how to blend these in?

Wood naturally changes color over time and it looks like your cedar material was no exception. When you sanded the material in some spots you sanded away the surface of the material that had changed color leaving more of the raw wood exposed. It will be a challenge to try to fix this in any easy way.

Some things you could try:

Do nothing and see if over time the sanded areas naturally darken.
Cut out the worst boards and replace with new ones. You would have to carefully refinish those areas to get an even look.
Look at using a tinted version of the Minwax product to add some additional finish in those areas.
Sand the whole ceiling to a consistent look and re-finish. Although this could problematic due to having applied the second coat already so sanding would have to be pretty aggressive.


How do I remove a panel from the ceiling of my side porch? I have an uncovered side porch attached to the my brick ranch home.  I noticed that parts of my roof are sagging and it is getting worse.  I also noticed that some flashing around my chimney looks bad and I am hoping that I am not storing pools of water above my ceiling.

I'd like to remove some of the panels and have a look.  But I can't figure out how to do this without ruining the materials.  If I can help it I do not want to damage anything that I cannot easily put back.

Anyone have any ideas?  I attached a picture of the sagging roof as well as some pictures of the edges.

These videos walk you through removing and replacing vinyl siding components:

This video walks you through the steps for removing soffit panels.
This video walks you through the steps for removing and replacing vinyl soffit panels.
This video walks you through the installation process for vinyl soffit and trim so you can have a deeper understanding of what you're working with.
This video walks you through the steps for removing and replacing vinyl siding siding so you can know what you're working around or if you find you need to pull some of the siding to get at the pieces you're focusing on.


Can a plug melt when unit is not turned on? My Skutt kiln was plugged into the socket (240 volts).  When I came in to check the kiln, the plug was completely melted. I was told the unit had not been turned on.  Is this possible?

If there is current leakage between pins of the plug, almost a short circuit, then that can happen. Turning the unit on only conducts current to the rest of the unit inside its container.

If the current leakage between the pins was higher, you would blow a fuse. You need to check the fuse, or circuit breaker, for the circuit it's plugged into because it might be too large and allowed the plug to melt.

Of course, it sounds like there is a problem with the plug itself.


Increase wood fireplace efficiency We have a large fireplace and plenty of free or cheap wood and love having fires for warmth and entertainment. An open fireplace is not an ideal source of heat, but I wanted to know if there's a relatively simple way of increasing the amount of usable heat we get from the fire.

We're in a rental property, so a permanent installation such as a wood stove or fireplace insert is not possible.

I've seen a couple commercial solutions, such as this Texas Fireframe or fireplace heat exchangers, but I have no idea if these actually make a difference. I've also heard that just putting a cast iron plate at the back might reflect some heat back. Is there something I can put together myself with some Home Depot supplies?

I almost passed on this question, but couldn't resist.

I have been involved in a lot of home energy audits lately. Having spent a lot of time with some very qualified experts, i've learned a lot.

The one thing about a conventional fireplace is that they are for looks only. Even if the wood is free, it is costing you heating costs every time you light it. The real story is that for the chimney to draft properly and not fill the house with smoke, it has to pull tons, yes really tons, of air from the house to feed the flue. Only about 40% of the heat generated by the burning wood is actually sent into the house. The majority is sent up the chimney, as flue temps can reach 600 to 700. In order for this hot air to escape, it pulls the warm heated air from your home. So in essence, you are trading 40% efficient heat for the paid for heat at maybe 80% to 90%, depending on your heating system. Not a good trade, huh?

My advice is not waste your money on gimmicky promises of high efficiency gadgets. Just enjoy the fire as a romantic mood setting with a glass of wine, but don't forget to close the damper as soon as the fire is out to save your heating bills!


Sharing my 240V 30amp between two dryers We are running a clothes dryer in the lower level of our home. We are installing a washer and dryer on our main level.
Can I split the power feed between both dryers and what can I use and where can it be bought.
We only want to run one dryer at a time when needed.

No. The wiring and the breaker are sized for the needs of a single dryer. To connect several would create a situation where overload is likely, or at least a possibility.

A possible workaround, with questions of legality outstanding, would be to install a lockout mechanism or switch that would prevent simultaneous use of both dryers.


Why is there green stuff on my heater pipe? No, really the baseboard heat is made of copper and is constructed of a series of pipes with fins.  they look like heat sinks, or dissipation helpers.  Well, was cleaning the carpet by the baseboard heater and noticed green stuff around one of the connections between sections.  Looks like a beautiful color of green patina.  Think Statue of Liberty.

So, here's the question;  is there reason to worry?  Why is green only in one place and not along the system?  Time to call Mr. Plumber?

what do you guys think?

When copper oxidizes, it first turns dark brown (like a copper penny), and then if left undisturbed into a somewhat moldy-looking green. This is normal. If you notice the pipe starting to deteriorate around areas that have a lot of green, this may indicate a leak in the pipe that is introducing more water into the area, speeding oxidation.

Just keep an eye on it to ensure it isn't deteriorating. Usually, the layer of oxidation forms a good protection of the copper behind it against further oxidation, and in this way that green stuff is beneficial.


Should a heavy duty transformer (used predominantly for LED lights) be on the mains ring or the lighting circuit? I am putting RGB LED strip lights in a room, powered by a fairly heavy duty (30A) 12V transformer.

The transformer will also power a Raspberry Pi (volatage will be split to give it 5V)that will be used with a touchscreen to control light colour and function, and a motorised blind. There will also be a relay from the Pi controlling a couple of normal (mains) lights.

Given the "primary function" of the transformer is for lighting, I assume it should be on the lighting ring. (I guess the risk is with "forgetting" the motor etc is on the lighting ring.) Even though there is a high current draw at 12V, it is only 1.5A at 240V. There are only a couple of other lights on this circuit, so I think 1mm2 cable will be fine too.

Is this approach correct?

Is this approach correct?

Basically, yes.

1mm2 twin and earth cable (I presume that is what you are proposing) could carry up to 16A, depending on where it runs, so 1.5A is well within the headroom (assuming that you aren't talking such long runs that voltage drop becomes an issue).

For lighting, however, I tend to use 1.5mm2 in preference to cable 1mm2.


Can I use Teflon tape to seal a flange? I'm trying to install any new pop-up assembly because my sink is currently leaking from the gasket. I purchased a Ace Hardware brand replacement. Unfortunately, I did not read the directions before I left the hardware store.

Now, I am at home and I see that the instructions say to "apply plumbers putty to the rim of the hole"-- to seal the flange into place.

So is it possible to use Teflon tape instead of plumbers putty for this?

In a word, no.  The plumber's putty is what forms the gasket between the drain insert and the bottom of the sink, and is likely what failed in the old one.  Telfon tape doesn't work very well as a seal unless it is forced into an extremely tight space (i.e. on threads) and is really only made of Teflon to reduce friction enough to allow it to stay in place long enough to get the load on it tight enough.


How drill polyurethane properly? I am building an electric skateboard for which I bought a pulley with a belt that will transfer torque from the motor. This pulley is mounted on a wheel with 5 M3 screws and here is the problem. All skate- or longboard wheels are polyurethane and it turned out to be really nasty to drill. I tried to do it by hand with my screwdriver, but drill bit walks around a lot before penetrating and inclines very easily from drilling axle. And if it did incline, it is almost impossible to drill a hole just next to the previous. I tried freezing the wheel, but it doesn't really make any difference.

So the question is how to drill polyurethane properly? Lubrication fluid? Speed recommendation? General tipps on processing such materials?

.

Polyurethane can be drilled with a common high-speed twist drill. It seems as though your issue is more related to the shape of the surface rather than the material.

To stop a bit from "walking" you should be using a punch or awl to create a small divot at the intended drill location. It may help to start with a much smaller bit size, then increase bit size in step until reaching needed hole diameter.

Your issues with difficulty drilling adjacent holes, and "incline... from drilling angle (sic)" are related to the method. The piece should be clamped securely when drilling, so it cannot move, and you should be using a drill press (or at least a drill guide) if precise drill angle and depth are needed.


Caulking bathroom floor I have this part of caulk missing near the corner of my bathroom floor. Should I just patch this section with new caulk or would I need to scrape the old caulk and reapply caulk along the entire edge?
And by the way, what is the proper lingo for this "edge." Is it called a "joint"? Thanks!

It all needs to be scraped out, the surface needs to be scrubbed clean and then rinsed and left to dry completely.
Then (and only then) should new caulk be applied.
As for learning, internet videos have many examples of how to do it properly but there is some skill gained by experience. Each application method (squeeze tube vs. caulking gun) also involves slightly different skill-set and both have advantages and disadvantages.
I recommend that you use silicone (for durability, adhesion, and water-resistance); that you use a squeeze tube applicator (easier control for novice); and that you have mineral spirits handy in a small bucket along with several sacrificial rags. Use a finger dipped in mineral spirits to carefully smooth the caulk after application, and use the rags to clean any "oops" and to clean up any smeared caulk that got anywhere you didn't want it to be.
Even if it's not perfect in the end, it will look better and be more water-protective than the old crap that is there now... and you will learn a bit and your next caulk job will be easier.


Is the light/fan combo in my shower safe? In all of the bathrooms, there is a recessed light/exhaust fan combo installed. I assume, due to the combo feature, is the reason there is no cover over the light fixture.  However, the same light/exhaust is also located inside the master shower - not in the damp area but, the actual wet area.  Visualize yourself taking a shower and looking directly above you as your washing your hair, with water spraying and splashing everywhere, you look right up into the can of the light!  So, out of precaution, we keep the switch off -ALL THE TIME! Is this safe and to code?

For the record, I have never liked lights (or fans) in the shower, because they are a maintenance nightmare. That being said I know of no restriction about putting one in a shower area unless you are able to touch it or it comes into contact with the spray of the shower. So I am assuming your fixture/fan is high enough to meet all jurisdictional codes.

My only question would be if this was installed during construction or was an add in by a previous owner. If it's the latter, you may want to check with local code enforcement to see if it should be removed. I like your idea of never using it.

Stay safe.


Installing Baseboard Moulding with Brad Nailer I am wanting to install my newly purchased wooden baseboard molding by using a Brad Nailer. I went to the Home Improvement store and bought what I thought was the correct tool. Turns out that the Brad Nailer I purchased requires an air compressor with it to work.

Long story short, I have done a bit of research and it seems like most people recommend using a pin/Brad nailer that can shoot 2" nails. I am wondering if it is a good idea to go ahead and return the brad nailer and get a cordless brad nailer instead. The problem is, these nail guns are insanely expensive so I want to make sure I am getting a tool that I can get my money back out of.

I know that you can use some of these nail guns to do other things as well like doors and crown molding etc.. My wife and I just purchased our first home and it is a very old home(90 years). We intend to remodel the entire house and we are about 30% of the way done. Is it worth the money to spend a couple hundred bucks on a finish/brad/nail gun, or should I find a way to borrow one/ rent one?

EDIT:

If there are any other recommendations for the installation of the baseboards, please go ahead and give some pointers. This is my first time installing them so I have only seen a video of someone doing it and so it would be nice to get some other input on the process.

If you are renovating the whole house, or at least a good portion of it, I would purchase a nail gun over renting it or borrowing it. Owning it lets you use it when you need it, not like going to get a rental and returning it or being responsible for somebody elses' property. Get the compressor too, it does more than power nailers, it fills tires, blows dust off things big time, inflates balls for sports, etc.

Size your nails so it goes into the framing about 1". More is overkill, but a bit more works if that is the size of nails you have on hand. No finish nail needs to go in the framing more than 1 1/2" In that depth, the possibility of hitting wires or pipes grow. Kick plates that protect pipes and wires per the building code are only needed on wires and pipes closer than 1 1/4" from the face of the stud. That's why 1" is the sweet spot, good holding power and less chance to hit stuff in the wall. Using a nail that is too short will increase the chance of the trim coming loose.

Add up all the thicknesses of the material you are going through. In the case of a 1X6 baseboard and 1/2" sheetrock that is 1 1/4" of material, in my opinion a 2" (6D) nail is too short, it will need 8D nails (2 1/2" for the holding power required. With that size of nail, you will need a 15 or 16 gauge finish nailer. To set nails in the trim to the edge of a door jamb, an 18 gauge finish nailer will work there. With the larger nails around the edges holding the trim to the drywall you can go with a slightly smaller nail to hold the trim to the door or window jamb. 1 1/2" long is what I use there. You could use 2" but the chance of blowing out through the face of the jamb is high.

Big box stores usually have a combo kit, a compressor with 2 nail guns, a good deal, in my opinion.


What kind of hammer is this? I can't find this specific hammer anywhere online,  does anyone know what it's called or used for?

Looks like a run-of-the-mill blacksmith's or stone sledge that someone has customized for a particular purpose.


Sump pump & ejector pump: can I (and should I) change single dedicated non-GFCI receptacle to a dual receptacle GFCI? Moved into a new home about 6 months ago which had been gut rehabbed.

Our mechanical room has 2 pits, one for the sump pump and another for the ejector pump.

I was planning on installing a battery backup system to our sump pump when I made a few surprising discoveries.

neither the ejector pump or the sump pump were on GFCI receptacles.
while the sump pump and the ejector pump receptacles are on different circuit breakers, the ejector pump is using a single dedicated receptacle, while the sump is on a dual receptacle, sharing with our alarm system.

my impulse was to switch each receptacle to a dual receptacle GFCI outlet, but I became skittish after seeing the single dedicated outlet for the ejector pump.

from what I understand, GFCI receptacles should be standard for this room since, by definition, we're talking about water with risk of flooding and shock.

is there a particular reason the ejector has it's own dedicated outlet?
if not, can a single dedicated receptacle be easily converted to a dual GFCI?
if so, can the ejector pump and battery backup be on same dual GFCI outlet as I now have planned (with the sump remaining on it's own dual GFCI with the alarm, on a separate breaker)?

While I've never installed a GFCI plate before, I'm comfortable with very basic electrical and it seems pretty straightforward.  however, I don't want to get in over my head or be unaware of some important point about the single receptacle, and then be faced with flooding, sewage, electrical shock... and worse, angry wife.

Current code leans to GFCI the heck out of it, and if it nusiance trips or fails (as they do with some regularity; typically about 10 years) and backs up sewage or water, tough noogies. People who sell GFCIs write the codes, and they have been expanding places where GFCIs are required for years. As of 2002 code (at least) there was still an exception for sump pumps and freezers, but those have been removed due to either "greater care for your safety" or "vast sums of money from GFCI makers .vs. no sums of money from people with flooded basements and freezers full of rotting food" in the code-writing cycles. [It should be self-evident that the linked page is from the side with all the profit in this game, and just a tad smug/biased.]

I would NOT change the ejector pump to a dual, nor add anything to its circuit - sewage backups stink. A dedicated breaker with one outlet is one way to be certain that nothing OTHER than a pump failure or power outage causes the ejector pump to stop; and depending on the pump, it may need the entire circuit to itself, period. Even if it does not, sharing is poor practice, IMHO. If you would like to add a GFCI to it, put in a blank face GFCI in-line before the outlet, or a GFCI breaker. If it's installed to code as of the time it was installed, I'd suggest leaving it alone, but that's up to you.


What could cause my house to smell musty after coming back from vacation? I just returned to my house (northern New Mexico, ranch-style, built in 1972) after a ten day vacation and found an unpleasant musty smell to greet me. The smell is primarily in the living area and the master bedroom, and I cannot smell it in the attached garage, which is semi-open to the attic. Before I left, I closed up all the windows, so there would be no ventilation other than through cracks in the walls and ceiling.

As soon as I got back, I opened up all the windows and turned on the fans, and while that has helped slightly, the smell is still lingering. The smell is strongest in the area around my bed (foam mattress 5 months old), but I can't see anything particularly wrong there.

Thinking that maybe the water in the traps might have evaporated, I ran all the sinks, but that doesn't seem to have helped. It rained only a very small amount while I was gone (less than 0.25 in). I can't find any plumbing leaks. So I would be surprised if it was some kind of sudden, rapid mold growth. It's pretty bone-dry here right now.

I am guessing you closed all your windows, shut the doors, and made sure the AC was off or set really high.

So then the humidity of the house goes sky high, mold spores multiply, and all of the major smells in your house that were hidden are multiplied.  I go on a couple of long vacations a year and my house always smells when I get back if it is warm.  Lots of times it leads me to clean something that maybe I didn't notice (steam clean the couch) and sometimes it is me being stupid before I left (leaving dirty clothes out, wet towel on the carpet, left fruit out, half full trash can).  The mixture of no air movement, more moisture, and higher temperatures is an incubator for smell.  And it takes very little mold growth to get that "old people" smell in your house.  Open up all your windows, let the AC chill the place down, and repeat.  Takes a couple days to go back.


Replacing Anode rod, which conductive pipe dope should I use? I am looking into replacing anode rod on my water heater. One of the biggest emphasis during this procedure is ensuring that after replacement anode rod remains in contact with tank - threads when rod is screwed in should remain in contact... this ensures conductivity so that anode rod can do it's job.

However, I can't find which pipe dope I should use for this job. I've called Rheem (water heater manufacturer) and they recommend just wrapping teflon tape - hoping that tape will break when I screw anode rod in. Since teflon could isolate rod and break conductivity I would prefer to use some conductive pipe dope instead (this is what professional plumber suggested).

Unfortunately I can't seem to find pipe dope that's conductive. I've spoke to few employees in local Home Depot and they have no idea if certain pipe dopes are conductive or not. So, can you recommend a brand of pipe dope that is used for jobs like this?

I have used a product made by permatex called ultra copper it is RTV for use at high temps. It works well to seal and create a conductive surface The RTV seals and the threads still make contact. Ultra copper in the copper colored tube. It only takes a little to do the job and a well sealed tube stored in a fridge last a very long time.


How Can I Attach a Box to an inside wall that will the hide internet router without damaging the wall? I have a series of cables and an internet router on the floor of my apartment, like this:

I would like to attach a box to the wall that will hide all of this, and tuck the wireless router inside it. I'm not allowed to drill into the wall because this is a rented apartment.The box will have to have a small rectangular cut-out to accommodate the incoming cable from above.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

April

You should have mounting holes in the back of the router.  Simply just attach something like a command strip to the wall and hang the router.  We use these for the exact purpose in our personal offices at work.


How can we protect this furnace from environmental conditions? I was recently asked to look over the utility closet of a friend, and several things I saw looked very concerning, from an energy-efficiency standpoint.  This closet is approximate 3' x 6', and is in the (unheated) garage.  It shares a wall with the house, but also has an external wall.  Through the external wall are two 4" x 10" vents, one near the floor, the other near the ceiling.  The large garage-facing wall has a 48" double bi-fold closet door.

A sketch (arrows show exterior vents):

During the winter, outside temperatures can reach -20 F.  During the summer, they can reach 110 F.  This is a gas furnace, so I understand it needs clean air for combustion and free exhaust.  (It does appear to have a chimney.)  But I'm concerned that it is doing far more work than it should need to, when it's environmental air can easily drop below freezing.  Is there anything that can be done to make it's life happier?

Without major retrofits, probably not a great deal. Not blowing up the house trumps insulating and especially air-sealing with gas appliances - someone already made the decision to park these out in the cold rather than in the house, and adequate ventiliation is a must. There may also be a deliberate intent to bleed some heat to the garage without actually heating it, as such. You certainly can't effectively insulate the closet with those doors, and given the needed vents, it wouldn't do a great deal anyway.

There is no real concern about the air feeding the combustion being cold - it makes little to no difference. Being sure that the air ducts to and from the house are well-insulated where exposed would be good, and likewise the water lines for the water heater.


Paper taping or fiberglass mesh taping in bathroom I noticed that there is a debate about using a paper tape or fiberglass mesh tape for drywall seams taping. In general professionals seem to prefer paper tape. However, I have read that in a place where there is a lot of humidity, such as a bathroom with a shower, it is necessary to use a fiberglass mesh tape and setting type joint compound (chemical bound), instead of paper tape and ready-mixed all purpose compound, the latter being soluble in water.

Being a novice I would like to know if it is true that the paper tape and ready-mixed all purpose compound are to proscribe for drywall seams taping in a bathroom. Could not we use rather a primer and a moisture-resistant paint to protect the seams ?

Thank you.

Could not we use... a primer and a moisture-resistant paint to protect the seams ?

YES, either tape will work fine and you should use the joint compound you are most comfortable with. When covered properly with a high quality primer and paint then the moisture should not be an issue for either.

P.S.- I do not use mesh tape because I have had experience with cracking that does not seem to happen as much with paper. Many folks will likely have suggestions and anecdotes both pro and con for both.


How can I fix my uPVC window that won't close properly? The handle on one of my uPVC windows won't turn to keep the window shut. The window doesn't form a seal against the frame so it is getting cold in here! I've noticed that there's a small metal pin sticking out of the handle fitting. On another (working) window in the house, this metal pin is flush with the handle fitting. Here are some links to pics for comparison:

Bad window

Good window

What is this metal pin? Is it kind of safety catch? If so, how do I release it?

If the pin isn't the problem, how can I get this window to close properly? There are no screws to undo the handle. The locking mechanism seems to be via two sliding bolts on the bottom edge of the window.

The pin you see is the part that secures the handle to a shaft that sticks out of the window latch assembly.

To get the handle working you are going to have to carefully observe how the moving parts of the good window work and then compare that to what you see going on with the bad window. This may include activating the handle back and forth while the window is open. Look from below, outside and the edge end of the window. Doing this you may notice that something has blocked the mechanism and is keeping the latch from working.

It is possible that the latch mechanism is just flat broken in which case either it or the window would need replacement. Many times these latch mechanisms have nylon or pot-metal parts inside which break if forced too hard.

For a temporary fix till you can get the actual window and/or the latch replaced there are number of things you can do cut down on the cold draft through the crack. The simplest may be to simply apply some blue painters tape over the cracks to cut off the air flow. Duct tape of "gorilla" tape are other possibilities too but will take a lot more work to clean up after the tape is no longer needed. There is also a stretchable clear plastic product available that you can stretch over the entire window opening that acts as an inside window seal that can be used in the cold season. This method has been recently discussed here on DIY.


Is it necessary to get a kitchen fire extinguisher if I have an ABC rated one already? I'm trying to get fire extinguishers and I'm wondering whether I need to get a class K fire extinguisher if I already have an ABC fire extinguisher like this: http://www.amazon.com/Kidde-21005779-Fire-Extinguisher-160CI/dp/B000VBGG5Q

I've read somewhere that basically class K is more or less the same as class B but I want to see what the community says. :)

An ABC extinguisher should be safe for all three classes of fire. It may not be be the most effective possible choice, or the easiest to clean up after. Depending on what you think the hazards are, how willing you are to fight them, what experience you have, how badly you panic (as opposed to, for example, smothering the fire with a pot lid), and how much cleanup is going to aggravate you, a more specialized extinguisher may be a cheap and effective investment.

Anything that reduces hesitation, or time fetching the extinguisher, is a good thing.


Connecting TV to receiver via HDMI I just installed a new wall-mount tv. So far so good. I have a nice Onkyo receiver with 3 HDMI inputs and one HDMI out.

I know that the "right" way to do it is to hook the TV to the receiver via the HDMI out, FROM the receiver TO the TV.

However, with the new smart TV I no longer need a DVD player etc.

I JUST want the sound from the TV to the receiver, I don't want to use the receiver as the switcher for nonexistent accessories, and I never liked switching inputs on the receiver even when I did use that setup.

Is this possible? If so, what inputs / outputs do I use?

Or do I just have to get an optical cable and use that to go from the TV to the receiver? That's not hard, but I don't have such a cable and the HDMI cables are already routed through the wall-- I'd have to remove the TV to route the optical cable.

If (as seems likely, but you don't tell us what TV you have) the HDMI on the TV is (are) all inputs, you will have to use optical (or some other audio - coaxial digital, for instance) output.

If the TV has HDMI outputs, you might be able to rig something where one of those goes to an input on the reciver, but that might not work with having the picture on the TV screen, depending how it's set up.

BTW: Don't fall (seriously) for gold-plated optical cables - the working part of the TOSlink optical cable is a plastic fiber optic. They don't need to cost much, but some sharpies have preyed on the "audiophool" market and produced (uselessly) gold-plated versions to part phools from their money. Cheap ones work just as well...


Can I use a pump to discharge kitchen sink waste water, rather than digging up the concrete? We are installing a small kitchen in the basement.  There is a full bathroom in the other corner of the area, same side as the planned kitchen.  I could use some experienced recommendations for the kitchen plumbing ... do we have the contractors dig up the concrete floor OR do we use a pump for the sink (only a sink will be installed, no dishwasher).  This is the last issue we need a decision on to start the renovations, which are a few weeks behind because we need some advise here.  The basement kitchen will not be used that often and, for expenses sake, I feel the pump would fit the bill.  Any reason why not?

I'd really need pictures to answer properly, But it is entirely possible that you wouldn't even need a pump.  Your kitchen sink should be high enough that you can run a properly sloped horizontal run to connect to the drain pipe behind the kitchen sink.


A plumber left the job in the middle, how do I close out the job? This question is cross posted https://law.stackexchange.com/questions/13995/a-plumber-left-the-job-in-the-middle-how-do-i-close-out-the-job because it was put on hold as off topic for DIY.  (It has gotten more views on DIY than on LAW.  I suggest reopening it here.)

I gave a plumber $2,000.  That is about half of the price on his proposal.

The plumber is no longer on the job. (See Plumber asking for a lot more money, after starting work.)

What steps should I take to do the following:
A. Make sure the plumber does not put a lien on my property for the full price.
B. Get a refund of the money not used.  (The plumber was here for 4 hours w an assistant and bought some 50 feel of 2" black pipe and fittings. That probably does not cost $2,000.)

Would taking him to small claims court be a reasonable way to get the job closed out?

Make sure the plumber does not put a lien on my property for the full price.

Hire a lawyer.

  Get a refund of the money not used

See the answer to the first one.

Honestly, I'd tell the plumber to consider the payment you gave "paid in full for services rendered" and let it go. Life's too short to deal with shoddy contractors...


Pros and cons of painting basement walls in the unfinished sections? I am about to sell a house I have been renting out.  It just had some foundation work done and part of that was in an unfinished part of the basement.   This utility room is large, has two finished walls, and two walls that are poured concrete.   It also houses the washer and dryer and these are also walls that are most susceptible to water.
I normally wouldn't think about painting but I was told by my foundation guys that the city has a new requirement for hairline cracks - must be covered in epoxy.     I have three or four of these (been there since I bought house years ago) and just some really ugly looking walls right now that are a cross between fixed cracks, dusty and dirty.   My stager has strongly strongly suggested that I get this painted.
What are the pros and cons of painting these walls and given that there could be water issues what paint should I use?
I have my own ideas and perspective so please be specific on reasons and materials.   (note that the foundation does have a lifetime warranty that I will pass to new home owner and any paint will not negate that)
Also I do not want to cause future home owner any issues so this isn't a flip and dump job.

Certainly a fresh coat of paint costs little in money, time, and effort for the difference it makes as an impression on your potential buyers (do the floor too for best impact.) I've done this, and heard from the realtor afterwards...
If you choose a light color (or white, my personal preference) it's much brighter, dust from raw concrete is reduced or eliminated, and it does not cause any detrimental effects if finishing is later contemplated.
I use flat, not gloss as it minimizes rather than accentuates the surface irregularities. Personally I like latex base concrete paint (easy cleanup, easy to recoat if ever needed) but I'll stop short of the brand recommendation. If your "water issues" are not interior, use the "waterproofer" variant of the paint (less coverage, thicker, entirely compatible.) Not a miracle, but I've had it hold minor leaks for years (serious leaks will beat any interior coating, IME.)


Installing washer/dryer combo in kitchen Due to space constraints, I am planning to install 1 1/2 inch pvc piping through cabinetry to the sink tailpiece (with some type of tee) which will go straight down to the p-trap to the main kitchen drain. I have a poor ASCII diagram that describes the current thoughts. The V in the diagram is the opening where I will insert the drain hose from the washer. The height of 12 ft horizontal piping can only be adjusted about ±6 inches. Now assuming I do not run the kitchen sink while washing clothes, should this setup effective drain a load from a washer cycle.

V
|
| 12 inches
|
|              12 ft
+-----------------------------+
                              |              |
                              |         exit |
                  18 inches   |              |
                              |   -----------|
                              \__/           |

I appreciate any thoughts. Thank you from a novice.

No Way on the tailpiece. It's got to be a full glued on PVC Wye (that accepts 2") above the sink trap or with it's own trap under there. Definitely go with 2" (not 1-1/2" pipe), but the 6"-ish pitch is fine.

Fill your sink up half way & drain it. If it squeals & has a very tight vortex smaller than your finger & the vortex starts & stops, then you need more vent air for an already starved drain.

You're either too far from the vent pipe or that pipe is too small & you'll need to put in an under-sink vent to avoid needing a utility sink that could hold the entire washer's dump that could then drain at a slower rate.


How do I replace the front door on a stucco house? I'm going to be taking out the various floors that have been laid in our house down to the sub floor so wood flooring can be laid.  But in doing so the floor will be about 1 inch lower than what it was and the front door will have a gap at the bottom.  The jamb is standard size and my plan is to replace the entire unit with a prehung door.

The problem is, I really don't want to have to patch the stucco around the door jamb.  I've been reading on how to do it and one site had a door installer provide the steps he uses.  I just want to run them by here to make sure it is doable.

Remove door and interior trim
Cut nails holding jamb to frame with a reciprocating saw
Carefully separate jamb from stucco mold, this should push the jamb inside the house.
Cut the nails in the stucco mold
Install the new door and re-nail the stucco mold back to the new jamb.

If that is doable, the other question I have is, should I install the new floor before I install the front door?

In case someone comes across this in a future search, here is what I did on a similar project:

First, I used an oscillating saw with a plunge bit to cut the nails—-much easier than a sawzall. I used little magnets to sweep along the face of the stucco mould and locate them, then I plunged in from the side to cut them. I cut the paint with a utility blade along the seam where it joined the frame and tapped the mounding free with a hammer & chisel (aka screwdriver).

Then I cut the door frame nails with the plunge bit from the front and back after locating them the same way. Since my door also had zero gap between the frame and the studs, I had to do some persuading with a hammer to move the stud where I wanted it, plus a slight trimming of the bottom plate with a hand saw. My header was also nailed out of level and I had to tune up the corner with an actual chisel.

Now, my stucco molding was 1” thick and they apparently do not make that any more, so it was impossible to replace (would have been easier to paint and reuse it but it was in rough shape). I had to go with the 3/4” stuff. I also went with a door frame that was ~1/4” wider to compensate (old was 4-1/4”, new was 4-9/16”). The shape of the channel turned out to be different as well, so I simply cut off the exposed lip of the stucco with an angle grinder with a diamond wheel. I also had to rip off the lip of the stucco moulding on my table saw.

I had to cut the top of the stucco about an inch higher to match the new, standard sized door frame I bought from the big box store. I used a grout blade for my oscillating saw to do the corners. To finish I used OSI Quad caulking between the stucco mounding and stucco and it turned out great, no need to repaint anything because I cut a nice clean edge.

As you can tell, I ran into every single nightmare possible! But I could see all of them coming, had the right plan and more importantly the right tools. I wanted to share my experience in case someone else is looking to do the same job. Good luck!


Product identification/recommendation - the goo between sliding door and wooden deck I'm replacing the lumber of my deck, and need to plan the join between the wooden steps and the sliding door frame. The existing seal seems to be working perfectly, so I'd like to replace with the same thing.

This image is a photo of the existing seal: http://imgur.com/Fuu340U

Does anyone know what this sealant is and/or have product or brand recommendations?
- The wood will be stained, pressure treated deck board (probably Canadian Pine)
- The door frame is powder-coated aluminium
- Temp range from -30 to +30ºC (-22ºF to 90ºF)
- The gap is approximately 3/4 of an inch

Thanks!

its butyl sealant.  it still works fine, but nowadays you can use a polyurethane sealant for superior results.


90 degree angle in air conditioning ducts, should I avoid them? I have forced air at my home and air ducts run pretty much straight. However I want to add bathroom in the basement and because of low ceiling hight, the main air conditioning duct has to be re-routed around the bathroom (9 * 7 ft) as shown in the diagram below.

|
|
|<<<<<<<<<<<
|          ^
|          ^
|          ^
|>>>>>>>>>>>
|
|
|
[furnace]

As can be seen, it introduces 4 right angles. Will this significantly effect efficiency of the air conditioning and air flow?

Should I avoid re-routing this main duct?

Alternatively my other option is to make bathroom in another place in basement where location is somewhat less ideal and sewer lines are quite far away but it will not interfere with the air ducts.

The reason that 90 degree turns (or any tight radius bends) in duct systems are discouraged are because they reduce air-flow. The friction that is encountered by the moving air as it hits the wall of the turn slows it down decreasing the distance it can travel.   There are equations that can be used to calculate the number of bends  before air performance is affected. Duct size and shape, motor wattage, register opening, etc. will need to be considered. If you can orient the duct system and configure the shape with "gentler" turns such as using (2) 45 degree bends in place of (1) 90 degree bend. This would restrict air-flow less. Installing a motorized fan duct in-line with the new duct branch would allow for longer runs if needed and account for sharp turns.    Is it feasible, when viewing the drawing you posted, to branch off the main duct sooner with a 45 degree duct and circumvent the restroom with 45's? Or consider using flexible insulated duct which is much more bendable than stamped sheet metal ducting. I'm not positive that code will accept this type of configuration ( rigid to flex back to rigid), but someone should comment about it either way).


Does a copper or brass 1/2 or 3/4 to GHT fitting exist? I have been searching for this for some time and maybe someone else has seen one. I am looking for a normal 1/2 or 3/4 sweat to 3/4 male GHT (garden hose threaded) fitting, needs to be brass or copper.
I need this in a GHT version.

The closest thing I've been able to find is a 1/2 sweat hose bibb with a 3/4in GHT output, which I'm not sure I want for this but may have to work if I can't find the proper solid fitting. I can find MIP/NPT fittings but cannot find a GHT fitting and I'd prefer not to use an additional adapter if possible. Does anyone know if this fitting exists? Seems like it would be common but apparently not.

I have never seen a GHT to copper sweat fitting, so your next best thing is sweat a copper X pipe adapter, similar to the picture, and then get a pipe X hose connection. The GHT hose connection can be bought in either 1/2 or 3/4 and in male or female threaded.


Problem installing outlet off pull chain light fixture Today I ran wiring from a pull chain light fixture to a new receptacle for my sister.  It works great except the receptacle goes on and off with the pull chain light fixture.
It is currently wired black to black (incoming power, pigtail to light, and wire to outlet) and white to white (same way). Only the pull chain light fixture does not have a ground. The pull chain light fixture has one each hot terminal and neutral terminal.
There is nothing else that we can find that is on the same circuit that is affected the same way.  FYI this house was built in 1957 and the wiring has not been upgraded.
I'd really appreciate any insight on this that anyone has.  Thanks.

This is a pull switch that's on the light fixture??? Somehow you spliced into the wrong side of the pull switch.

Move the hot wire to the other side of the pull switch, that should take care of it.

Or, well I don't know what stage of work you are at, but this might be a great time to install a proper light switch and dispense with the pull switch entirely.


Is it possible to use a dryer vent as a heat source in the winter? Is it possible to attach a diverter to an electric clothes dryer vent so it can help heat my house in the winter? Seems like such a waste to blow it all outside. I imagine you'd need some sort of filter or maybe a radiant heating option.

Dryer vent air is full of water vapor and dust. I wouldn't want to blow it into my house.

I do not know how much heat (BTU's) a dryer outputs during a run but it seems like it would be a small amount, and of course most people don't run their dryer very often - maybe a handful of times a week.


Is white paint the same color regardless of the company? I'm painting and have run out of the particular white paint I was using. I have some leftover white from a different room. Is there a way to tell if the white will be the same and match?

Here are the two versions

Ace Premium Royal Interior Wall + Trim paint Satin Acrylic Latex Enamel 182A100 High Hiding White
Clark + Kensington Paint + Primer in One Flat Enamel 126S310 Ultra White (Tint Base)Ace

No two whites are the same.  In fact, sometimes two tins of the same color from the same company can be different! This is why if you are painting large areas, it is best to blend the cans together.


Proper toner/probe use to track coax behind drywall Where my cable comes into my new apartment there are a number of coax cables labelled with rooms that don't have outlets. I bought a toner and probe (Fluke Pro3000) to try to trace them in the walls, but I'm having trouble getting it to work.

First, I attached the toner's black lead to the internal wire and the red to the connector outside. The probe sounds when it's near exposed coax (and near an outlet when I tested it on a known cable), but the tone disappears as soon as the cable goes into the wall. I also tried red to internal wire black disconnected with similar results.

On the advice of The Internet, I then tried red to internal wire, black to true ground (the handle of my fuse box, which I assume is grounded). This lit up EVERY coax and telephone wire in the entire apartment with very audible tone through the wall, making it impossible to trace any given one.

Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Clearly the probe is capable of picking up tone through the wall, but I need to narrow it down to individual wires.

The point of coax cable is to protect a weak signal from outside noise. That also protects the outside from a signal on the coax.

What you need is something that puts out a signal that can be picked up when connected only to the shield, so there isn't a balancing counter-current on the interior conductor.

I am fairly sure such exist; I can't recommend any specific products.


Can I wallpaper over spackle? I have a small areas that I want to do wallpaper on. However there are a few spots on this wall that needed patchwork and are spackled. My question is, can I wall paper right over the spackle or does it need some kind of primer on it?

There are some types of spackle out there that claim they do not need primer over it, you may be safe with that, it is always recommended to primer under wall paper, it aids in the removal process later. If you have no paint on hand at all, get primer, if you have any latex paint around at all, that will suffice for a spot on the wall here and there.


How do I remove a stuck tap bonnet to change the cartridge? I've searched and read many tips and quite a few questions on here but I'm still totally stumped!
I have a bathroom single lever mixer tap, and I'm 90% sure the cartridge needs replacing so thought I'd give it a go as it seemed pretty straight forward. I removed the handle of the tap, no problem, but the decorative bonnet (I've seen it referred to as a bonnet and a sheath) is not budging!!!
I have tried white vinegar to remove limescale, I've tried oust to remove limescale, I've tried WD40 to lubricate, I've tried a strap wrench but can't get a good grip because of the angle of the bonnet, I've tried heating it up with a hairdryer, I've tried pouring some boiling water over and using rubber gloves to twist it. Nothing is working. I've left oust most of the day and separately left WD40 overnight and neither seems to have helped...
A decent amount of gunk must have been dissolved as before the liquid would just sit at the top and it now oozes through suggesting it's working it's way through the thread?
Please any tips, advice, anything would be greatly appreciated! I'm not sure I've tried the "heating" methods enough to get it hot enough but I don't know how hot it needs to be?
Calling a plumber is an absolute absolute last resort and any way I don't have to would be preferable!
Many thanks!
Pictures of tap for reference

You might try loosening the adjustment ring, the brass ring with two slots for a spanner wrench that's inside the bonnet of many single-handle faucets.

Those spanners often come with faucet repair kits, along with springs, O-rings and other parts, but could be easily fabricated with some heavy-gauge sheet metal and two bolts with nuts; file the end of the bolts to fit the slots.
That said, the adjustment ring could be frozen as badly as the bonnet. Recently, I had to replace a similar faucet; the bonnet was stuck so tightly that on turning it with a large strap wrench, a rusted bolt holding the faucet to the sink broke! In that case, it was not a loss, because I had planned already on replacing the ancient faucet.