FAULTY MIRROR Is distorting fat to thin how do i correct this I have just purchased a long mirror & on hanging it (horizontally)  i find It distorts the image  fat & thin . How do i correct this please. I think it is either concave or convex

If it's very long, I'd suspect that it's being physically distorted during the installation process since the glass itself is flexible enough to distort the image without breaking first. To correct it, you need to make sure that the mirror is as straight as possible - use shims.

If it's along a wall, the mirror may be following the contours of a slightly uneven wall. You can shim the back of the mirror in the hollow spots to correct this. Masking tape (ideally the blue kind to protect the mirror) can be used in the low spots to build up sufficient support for the glass. Thicker shims can be used if you find the hollow spots to be very thick.

It's it's in a frame of some sort, either the frame is not straight, or it is sagging/distorting too, or (if the glass is sufficiently loose int he frame) the mirror itself is just distorting as above. The approach is basically the same - shim the spots that you need to push forward.


Basement bathroom rough-in with backwater valve question I ended up contacted the plumbing company that did my basement rough-in. This is what they said:

Drain and vent for basement sink
Toilet rough-in
Backwater Valve
Tub Drain

So I guess my new questions are:

Do I need to do anything special for #1, or just spin the tee (if needed) and connect the drain and call it good?
How do we incorporate #3 into the finished bathroom given its location and should we be checking it periodically?
How do we vent the shower, or is it somehow connected to #1 and similar that we don't need an explicit vent?

EDIT: I found the floor plan for a finished basement for the model of my house:

That would solve the mystery of how to get to the valve - they have the wall running between 3 and 4.

Just cut out the T and then drain/vent there.
You don't.  It should have been somewhere else in the basement.  Not sure what they were thinking putting it next to a shower.  You would put a backwater valve in a laundry or storage room.
Who knows but it sure doesn't look like it's vented.

I cannot think of a logical design for your bathroom.  The plumber who did your rough-in must have been high.  You have a sink on the left then toilet... then in the corner is what?  I guess you could put shelving there but I never design something to hold items to get pee spray.  Also if the shower runs with wall it might stick out further than toilet.  There is no good solution there.

My advice is to jackhammer up the backwater valve and move that into what will be unfinished space.  While you have that ground broken up by shower, make sure it vents.  Design your bathroom so that door is on the far left.  You walk in and have the sink to your immediate left (might actually be able to keep the T in place).  Then toilet after sink.  Across from toilet is the shower - you are moving the valve so shower will be installed perpendicular to wall.  To vent your shower go straight to the wall and then follow the wall over to sink vent.

If your backwater valve comes in on that wall then basically your costs are concrete and extra pipe.  If it comes in somewhere else you might be able to just cut out pipe and reinstall head.  You do not want this anywhere near a newly renovated bathroom.


Removing grout from perimeter of counter and backsplash? The previous homeowners of my house remodeled the kitchen and without looking too close, everything might look professionally done, but unfortunately we're left trying to correct a lot of these bad decisions that they made with the remodel, this being one of them.

This particular issue is that grout was put in the corners/intersections of where the backsplash (a glass mosaic backsplash) and the walls meets the laminate counter top (faux-granite style counter, matte finish).  And for some reason...it was also put in the crevice where the bottom of the top cabinets meet the top of the backsplash.  I already know that the grout was not mixed properly because we're missing patches of grout in between some of the mosaic tiles (and sometimes when we're cleaning it, some more pops out, which is fun).  The grout in this area is pretty thick and grainy.

I'm concerned that if I start chipping away at it that I may ding-up the other close-by areas (glass backsplash, cabinets, wall, counter, etc...) or that not all of the grout will be able to be cleaned away and it will be patchy.

I was thinking that maybe, given my situation, it may be sufficient to caulk over-top of the grout (even though I know it won't look perfect).

Any suggestions?

Use a tool like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-Handheld-Grout-Saw-for-Cleaning-Stripping-and-Removing-Grout-10012Q/100001353.

The link includes a brief video.  If the surface on one side is wood or Formica, be careful because the carbide will scratch it.  Typically, removing grout between tiles can only abrade hidden edges, and it gets covered by new grout.  You might end up needing to touch up where the grout line on the cabinet was using a cotton swab or a piece of cardboard as a brush.  If the Formica ends up with some visible scratches in the grouted area, you can typically find color-matched caulk.

If caulking is an option where the different materials meet, just remove as much grout as needed so that the finished job is neat.  The caulk can be a thin cover layer over the grout if the surface is clean.


What is the maximum number of branches on one circuit? Just curious. Is there a maximum number of junction boxes (and then branches coming off of those junction boxes) that one circuit is allowed by code to have?

Could you theoretically just continue to add junction boxes to one main line of power and split that power into new branches over and over?

No, and also, no. But perhaps a qualified yes.

No limit on number of junctions/branches per circuit, unless it's been added at the local level. And even then, reports I've seen here of inspectors with some number of end-use boxes in mind as a limit don't care if the boxes are all in a line or madly branched every which way.

But you will soon run out of available power to run devices at the same time; Or you won't meet required VA per square foot requirements; Or, you will be lacking adequate overcurrent protection.

Of course, if you care to modify your interpretation to include the breaker boxes along the way that DO provide the current limiting, "adding breaker boxes and junction boxes to one main line of power" is exactly what your house and even neighborhood power system looks like. There just happen to be a larger number of branches at a few breaker boxes to deal with the overcurrent protection.


How do I safely remove a drywall anchor from a stud? I didn't realize that these were intended for use with drywall (I only found out the name of these things after the fact) and just put them in where we had a stud.  Now, it turns out that my holes are not level and I need to adjust one of them slightly.  I am planning to fill in the hole with a wooden dowel/carpenter's glue after I get it out, but wasn't sure how to remove the anchor safely to begin with.

How can I remove this without causing damage that can't be repaired easily with the dowel/glue? Should I remove both of them and just redo it without the anchors?

Edit: picture (anchors bottom right)

If the anchors are wedged tight in the wood, full length, you don't really need to remove both of them, you can use leave one in. Remove just one to make everything level.

To remove it, just use a wood drill bit slightly larger then the hole and drill the plastic anchor out. Do NOT drill any deeper than the anchor length.

You can now glue in a dowel, pre-drill a pilot hole and screw in a screw at a correct height. Use a longer screw, say 3 1/2" or so, so at least some of the screw is inside the undisturbed part of your stud.

Personally, I'd just leave the anchor where it is, drill a new pilot hole where it needs to be (right through the anchor body), and use a longer screw, and not bother with gluing dowels. I wouldn't trust these glued-in dowels anyway. If your new hole needs to be slightly lower, I suggest you go with this route.

Another solution would be to abandon both anchors altogether (cut their bases flush so you can cover their holes later), and drill two new holes in a slightly different location (if this is possible in your circumstances).


Installing a wall vent when stud blocks the opening? I'm installing a rear duct range hood and need to open a ~4"x18" hole through the exterior wall.  A 2x6 stud blocks the hole.  I plan to cut the stud and place a header, jack studs, and sill around the hole.

Do the jack studs need to extend all the way to the bottom plate or can they just be screwed into the king stud? (there is some wiring that would need to pulled back for the jack stud to reach the bottom plate)

Exterior walls are load bearing walls. You can place a header over jack studs to bridge the overhead load to the bottom but for that to work properly the jack studs do need to go all the way down to the lower plate.


Why does my bathroom door make a cracking sound when opening it? My bathroom door makes a cracking sound whenever I open it.

When the screws are tight against the hinges, it makes the cracking sound when I open the door.

But when I loosen each screw, the cracking sound stops.

Is there a better solution than just loosening the screws?

First guess: sticky paint.  With the screws loose, there's less contact between paint on either side.

See also Doors are sticky and noisy when opened?


Are there testers for thermostats? One of my A/C units was struggling to keep the temp. down to 85 three weeks ago. The pipe outside was slightly frosted so I already knew the unit was a little low of refrigerant. Called repair company to check unit out. The service technician said the unit was 2 lbs. low on refrigerant. After three more days of the unit struggling, I called for them to please check the unit again for me. Two different technicians happened to be sent out. At this time, there was no sings of any frost on the pipes. The techs told my wife that the unit has a leak and we would need to replace the unit if it continued not cooling properly. The techs also said they put an additional 3 lbs. of refrigerant in the system. They also quoted us total replacement for $5,892.00. They put in an order for a new unit.

This did not make any since to me. Next, I started monitoring the thermostat. every time the thermostat showed the unit was cooling it down a little I would lower the temp setting. Instantly the current temp. reading on the thermostat would go up a degree. Well, I put two additional temp. readers next to the thermostat and both of them said the current temp was 4 degrees lower than the thermostat.

So, I decided a new thermostat only cost around $38.00 and I replaced it. To my surprise, the unit started cooling immediately and has been for the last 20 days. I would bet that the on the second service call, the unit did not need or take anymore refrigerant. I did call the company and told them the unit started working so they could cancel the new unit ordered. I failed to mention to them that I put a new thermostat on which fixed it.

So, is there a tester for thermostats? I have never seen one tested.

It is service call experiences like these that give HVAC guys a bad reputation.

Many residential systems take between 8-13 pounds of refrigerant total.  It is extremely doubtful that you lost 3 lbs of charge in 3 days, so either the first technician charged the system incorrectly (left it undercharged), or the second technicians charged it incorrectly (left it overcharged), or they both charged it incorrectly.  If they actually put a combined 5 lbs of refrigerant in the system, then odds are pretty good that your system is now overcharged.  If so, that will hurt system performance and, depending on the type of metering device your system has, being overcharged could severely shorten the life of the compressor.  Secondly, the mere existence of a leak is not a valid reason for installing a whole new system.  If the leak occurred because the evaporator coil is corroded to death, okay maybe, but if there is a simple pin hole or leaking fitting then, no, that is not a valid reason for a new system.  Personally, I would not invite these guys back.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

To answer your last question, I am not aware of any tester specifically for thermostats.  Usually some temperature observations and a few quick checks with a volt meter will tell a technician if the thermostat is the underlying cause of a problem or not, so no tester is really needed.  Also, with the introduction of advanced digital and wireless technology into the area of thermostats the variety of complex options has exploded.


What are these two drains for? I have an unfinished basement and do not have any experience with plumbing a bathroom. I assume the two pipes protruding from the floor are toilet (on the left) and either sink or shower (on the right).

Where am I supposed to connect the toilet, shower and sink?

If the large pipe is 12 1/2", 13 1/2" or so (it could be up to 14 1/2")from the wall that will surely be for your toilet. The pipe on the right will be for your tub. The plastic that it protrudes through allows the bit of maneuvering room to get it to line up with the tub drain or it could be used for a shower, although it will be offset instead of the center. This pipe should be somewhere about 16 or so inches away from the wall on the right that is NOT in the picture. You will still need a drain for the sink.

There should be a 2" line like the ones inside the stud wall in your picture, just not there.
I would presume there is another pipe on the other side of the room?


How should I install a curtain drain in my crawl space? Since I have wet areas in the crawl space, I have decided to dig a trench at the perimeter of my crawl space to take care of the water.  This would also allow me to install rigid foam insulation on the walls.  The plan is to dig not only down to the footing but next to it down to its lower end but not lower.  The dirt is wet here and there, but mostly dry and clay-like which makes it kind of hard to dig.

My calculations show that minimally I have to dig 110-120 cubic feet of dirt or around 900 gallons.  I've bought 8 5-gallon buckets and 3 different sizes of shovels.  I plan on hiring three laborers at $10/hour and renting a dump truck for $120/day.  I will personally participate and manage everything.  I'm hoping to finish within a day (or maximum two, although that'll be expensive).

Then, I will install a pipe in the trench which would be connected to an existing French drain system in the basement.  Hopefully I'd be able to achieve a slope of 1/8" per foot for the pipe.

I'll also insulate the walls and cover with plastic but that comes later.

What do people think of this?  Is this going to work?  Anything I need to know?

Edit: The crawl space is adjacent to a basement.  Both of them are 30x15 feet.   There is a French drain system professionally installed in the crawl space (with a sump pump).  At my request, they drilled through the footer at one corner to connect the system to the crawl space via a 2 inch PVC pipe which I'm going to connect to the crawl space perforated pipe.  The basement is 7' crawl space is only 3' or so.

Your basic plan sounds workable. I assume your crawl space is adjacent to a full basement area? I have a couple of questions. Where does the existing drain tile system empty? Is there a difference in level between existing basement floor and footings of the crawl space? the answers to these questions may change my answer to you.  But basically, adding a French drain or perimeter drain tile should help your situation. After your trench is dug, be sure to line it with several inches of gravel/crushed stone. Use perforated pipe with inlet holes or slots on only one half of the surface and be sure the slots are facing up when installed.  Wrap the pipe in common landscape cloth before backfilling with crushed stone to prevent the drain pipe from filling with sediment. Lay another layer of cloth over the stone and complete the backfill with clean grave.  Not sure how you plan to connect to the basement drain system, but that is another topic. This kind of work is always difficult, especially when working in a crawl space with limited head room.  Good luck.


Framing long walls in sections and keeping 16" OC Layout When you frame a long exterior wall and do it in sections, say a 50' 2x6 wall in 16' sections, how do you efficiently keep 16" O.C. layout when the next wall section would throw off the 16" OC Layout?  Every wall section needs a stud at the end of it to be sistered against the next wall.  Is it better to cut the wall plates down so that sistered stud is actually an on-layout stud, and then the next section of wall starts layout  1.5" back so that 16 inches from the first section wall - last stud, lands on the 2nd stud of the new section wall? Trying to see how this is done by the pros in mass production so it stays efficient?

I think it may help to know why 16" OC is so important and the main reason is that drywall and other sheathing comes in 4x8 sheets.  For you to properly hang drywall, you must have a stud where ever two sheets will join up.  So, as long as you have at least 3/4" of stud on either side of every 16" space, you'll be ok.

Say you make 16' wall sections... The first stud after the edge should be centered 16" from the edge of the wall - not the center of the edge stud.  This means that where the two wall sections join, the space between the two edge studs will fall directly on a 16" boundary and that's fine for joining sheathing or drywall.  Note that you should probably plan to have the sheathing joints not line up with the wall joints, but that can be handled pretty easily.

||           ||         ||||         ||          ||
||           ||         ||||         ||          ||
||           ||         ||||         ||          ||
-------------------------- --------------------------
    14.5"        13.75"       13.75"      14.5"
    (Gap)

Added better diagram - you can see that if you follow this pattern, the 16" OC will continue from wall to wall.  The only issue is that where the walls join, you will have a joint between two studs that falls exactly on the 16" mark, but this is fine for drywall and sheathing.  As the other answer mentions, these doubled-up studs might cause issues for insulation batts or other items that assume a 14.5" gap, but if you want doubled studs to make "complete" wall sections, that's what you have to do.


Long mat for shower? I am searching for long (10m) pvc mat for the dressing room before big shower room and sauna.
The mat is two layered. The lower layer maximises air while the top layer is for endurance.
I saw such a mat in one hotel yesterday and want similar for my summer house.

I searched unsuccessfully in AliExpress.

How can you call such a mat?

How can you call such a mat?

The general name for a long thin protective mat is a runner.

Walmart "Vinyl Runner".


How can we disable an unused smoke detector? We have wired ADT smoke detectors now. Our old free standing detector is chirping. How can we disable it without taking it off the wall?

Put a battery in it. Why wouldn't you want an additional layer of fire protection?


Where can I find load ratings for two-by lumber laid flat? How much load can a 2x4, 2x6, and 2x8 each hold is laying horizontally, yet turned on it's side? We have found numbers for wood turned upright, but it wasn't what we were looking for.

The reason you can't find tabulated information on dimension lumbar laid flat (usually called "weak axis bending") is because the strength is so small that there is virtually no structural application. The only time you would use 2x lumber like that is something like flooring where the boards are almost continuously supported and are carrying very little weight.

However if you want to get a sense of the strength you can compare the moment of inertia of the various cross-sections and orientations. Bending strength is proportional to that value.

I have done that math for you:

a flat 2x4 has about 20% the strength as a standing one
a flat 2x6 has about 7% the strength as a standing one
a flat 2x8 has about 4% the strength as a standing one

You can see that especially for the deeper joists you lose practically all of the strength.


Nest snow thermostat with a McLain PEG-45 boiler I have a similar problem . My R wire from the thermostat to the G terminal on boiler and the W wire from the thermostat to the Y terminal on the boiler. The picture is a bit confusing since the red and white from thermostat were connected to 2 black wires.

You'll need to run a 4 wire thermostat cable
The issue with your proposals so far is that unlike many setups, your boiler (and some other Weil-McLain boilers as well) puts various safety controls ahead of the intended thermostat connection point in a steam configuration (see page 8 of the control supplement), so the wire that's typically connected to R isn't actually constant power.  To avoid thermostat derangement in the case of a safety cutout or worse yet, bypassing a critical safety control (such as your all-important low-water cutoff!!!), you'll need to pull a 4-wire cable instead of your existing 3-wire cable, then wire it as follows:

Nest Rc to boiler R
Nest C to boiler C
Nest Rh to boiler G
and Nest W to boiler Y


How do I read circuit breaker temperature ratings? I have Siemens QP breakers, but I believe this generalizes well.

Let's take the QP breakers as an example:

There are some temperature ratings marked on it where it reads

CU-AL 60/75°C WIRE

CONDUCTOR 60/75°C

Why are two temperature ratings indicated? Is it simply to indicate compliance with either 60°C usage cases (ex. NM-B) or 75°C usage cases (ex. THWN)? Does it depend on whether the wire is copper or aluminum (ex. 60C for Cu and 75°C for Al)?

60/75°C Wire — All circuit breakers rated 125 A or less are marked for use with 60° C, 60/75°C or 75°C only wire. This marking indicates the proper wire size for termination in accordance with Table 310.15(B)(16) of the NEC . It is acceptable to use wire with a higher insulation rating if the ampacity is based on the wire temperature rating marked on the breaker. For breakers rated more than 125 A, the proper wire temperature rating is 75°C and it is optional for the breaker to bear this marking.

REF: UL Marking and Application Guide - Molded Case Circuit Breakers 2016 Page 10 Terminations (20)


Why would I have little to no water pressure after reopening the main water valve? I had turned off the main in my basement today so I could replace a couple of leaky valves in my basement bathroom and under my upstairs kitchen sink. turned on all the valves and opened up the main. I can hear water moving through the pipes, but Im not getting any pressure anywhere in my house. its a little more then a trickle at best. Ive had everything opened for over an hour now and its not getting any better. I tapped on the valve at the main, tapped pipes as well. nothing seems to be improving. Im on city water so the pressure to my house is good. the only valves that arent open again are under my sink as I cannot connect that until tomorrow. any ideas as to what it could be? I can hear water running through the pipe at the main. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would not count on the main valve - it could have broke. I had similar situation last year, but in my case it was that i couldn't close the main valve. If every output - even the ones that You didn't touch - gives same response (little or no pressure), it is highly probable that main valve broke down.

I would suggest calling city plumbers (as this is main valve) to check and replace it.


Should air vents in the floor be directed towards or away from walls and windows? Builder installed HVAC vents in the floor under the windows but all the vents when opened have the air flowing away from the windows into the room.  I thought the air was supposed to be towards the window to create a tempature barrier on the outside wall.

The vents should be directed away from the walls. Vents are installed at windows because that is a cooler / warmer area depending on the season this helps maintain a more uniform room temperature.


What did cable installer use to tap onto my service ground? I have a somewhat mysterious service ground apparently underneath a concrete entryway. All that is visible now is a heavy gauge bare copper wire coming through the cement. When the cable company hooked up my internet they bonded the coax ground to this service ground using some sort of clamp:

What is this square clamp called? I have pored through hundreds of Google Images for "ground clamp" and "square ground clamp" and "copper ground lug" and whatever else I can think of and am not finding something like this, which is apparently designed for bonding in this sort of situation.

I am adding some of my own antennas and need to bond their grounds to this same service ground wire. So I need something like this that can split into two pieces around the middle of my service ground wire, and clamp it tightly onto the end of an additional ground wire.

(Rather than directly connecting my lightning arrestors, in actuality I'll probably be driving a second "known quantity" ground rod nearby, and bonding that to the service ground — but then I'll still need basically the same sort of clamp.)

Thanks to the "split" term in ThreePhaseEel's answer, I finally chanced upon a close match via an image search. Apparently these are called "vise connectors".

For example, GMP Tools calls theirs a "Ground Vise Connector" (part number 77966) and MacLean Power Systems sells a "Bronze Vise Connector" under a variety of variants (e.g. catalog numbers BVC-2/4/6 depending on size). Allied Bolt calls them a "Bronze Vise Compression Connector" (e.g. part number 862), and also offers something very similar they call an "H Connector".

I'm not sure how they compare to the split bolt. I suspect they're a little handier for cable techs since the halves don't need to be fully separated to install, and/or are better for bonding two different gages of wire. In my case, it looks like the local home improvement stores tend to carry the split bolts and not these vise connectors.


Latex paint smudged onto fake river stone fireplace and mortar We hired a painter and I’m regretting our choice because he has slopped paint everywhere. I believe I can get it off most of the surfaces but I’m particularly concerned about our fireplace. It is made of faux stone and the guy did not tape it off at all. There is now dark blue paint on the faux stone and mortar. It is latex. I’m hoping to find a way to remove the paint without damaging the finish. Any suggestions?

Use some painters tape and plastic to mask off the wall below.
Carefully remove the pieces of dried latex with a razor blade (If Possible).
Dip a toothbrush into rubbing alcohol and gently brush over the smudge.
Wet another toothbrush and pour dish detergent directly on the bristles.
Gently scrub the grout.
Dip the toothbrush into clean water and rinse.
Dab with a clean damp cloth.

Repeat as necessary. The paint will eventually all come out and you wont harm the grout.

Send that painter a bill.


4 Way Switching Wiring Diagram Nightmare I am having trouble making my 4 way switch working in the home I just bought (quite an old one). As of now, I don't want to remove the light fixture as it quite big and it will be a big trouble... but using a tracer, it looks like the "red" wire emphasized in the picture goes to the light fixture. I don't understand that part: I tested and in order for the light to open, I simply have to make the Power touch the Red Wire. I have never seen that before... a Red wire that seems to go to the lamp fixture itself.
Can someone help me understand what is going?
Thanks!

First of all, I think someone just did the coloring nonstandard; they simply used red to the fixture for whatever reason. Also, your diagram doesn't show a red between the 4-way and 3-way switches. I'll assume that's an oversight and it's actually there, because if not, you have bigger problems...
That said, there are a couple of things possibly at play. First, the black hot in the big box could be a separate circuit, not intended for the light fixture in question. Outside lights are often on a different circuit. Second, the black line in question could indeed be the power for the fixture, and you have a three-way setup where the power and fixture are in the same box. You'll need to look at the other three-way switch to know:
Three-way switches have two brass screws and a black screw. The brass screws are the travelers and the black screw is the common. In an ideal world, one three-way box would have the power coming in, and the other would have the power out to the fixture. You'd connect the incoming power to the common on one switch, and the fixture's hot wire to the common on the other switch. You then run the red/black traveler in between, connected to the brass screws on both switches, and you're done. The neutrals and ground simply connect to each other all the way across.
In the more-complicated situation of the power and fixture hots being at the same box, the typical method is to use the white of the traveler wire to carry the switched hot:

The incoming power goes to the common screw of the switch in that box
The traveler red and black connect to the brass screws of that switch
The white neutral of the incoming power line connects to the neutral of the fixture
The white of the traveler connects to the hot of the fixture

At the other end:

The red and black again attach to the brass screws
The white attaches to the common (black) screw

So what you need to do is look at the other three-way switch. You should find one of two things: a) a single red-black-white-ground coming in with the white attached to the black screw, or b) two lines, one black-white-ground and the other red-black-white-ground, with the single black wire on the black screw, and the whites attached together.
In the former case, use a continuity tester to check and see if the white coming in with the travelers (the red-black-white-ground from the 4-way switch) gets connected and disconnected by operating the switches. If so, that needs to go to your fixture hot (red), and the hot black line needs to go to the black screw on the 3-way in the big box.
In the latter case, the hot you've found in the big box is unrelated; as I said, likely another circuit. The fixture hot (red) should be on the black screw of the 3-way in the big box, and everything should operate correctly.


Placement of evaporator unit on top of furnace (residential) I am installing an updraft 3 ton system with the evaporator on top of the furnace.  They fit nicely, but I'm not sure which front-or-back orientation the top unit should be in.

In the attached picture, the copper refrigerant lines are up front, as is the condensate drain, and they're all on the left of the unit.  The 1/2" iron pipe stub-out is also on that side, as are the electrical wires.  So, everything is conveniently placed.

However, the flue vent is going to go up vertically, and will be just about 3/8" or less away from the coil access panel, as well as the paper product label, and the coil access panel will be difficult to remove.

On the other hand, if I flip the evaporator unit, There's closer to an inch of clearance between flue and evaporator unit (the lips match up differently but it's a tight fit), though now the copper and condensate lines are to the rear.

I really prefer the first setup with the panel accessible.  Is that OK? Do I need to elbow the flue away from the unit before I go vertical?  Or should the copper/condensate go to the rear as well as the panel?  Appreciate your help!

Your flue is going to be a metal flue screwed together at the joints so it should be fairly easy to remove. I don't know how the access panel is removed but it looks like just a few screws and it possibly can be slid out with the flue still in place. If that's the case then when you route the flue try not to block access to any of the panel screws. I would be more concerned about the routing of the refrigerant lines because those are somewhat permanent. If you have a concern as to how close the flue can to the refrigerant lines, the wall, the drain etc. then post that as a separate question.


What is a good tutorial on the use of a multimeter? I am ashamed to admit, that despite my many electrical (mis?)adventures.. I have no idea how to use a multimeter.  I have installed automobile sound systems,  central air air-conditioners, and every kind of lighting, computer, telephone, etc. blah blah blah that you can imagine… and well, have just sort of "avoided" ever REALLY needing to use one.  I have one, there have been times I would have liked to use one, and I'm sure there have been things I have in reality, needed one for..  But I really don't get them.

Can anyone recommend a reliable, relatively concise (yet comprehensive) source of training on electrical testing, multimeters, basic wiring diagnostics, etc?  (I'm hoping for suggestions that are freely available, and convenient.  think YouTube videos, etc?)

I would recommend looking at the tutorial from SparkFun: How To Use a Multimeter.

It is a bit specific to the multimeter that they sell.


Drywall over plaster with furring strips So I just removed staple on ceiling tiles from my curling to find they were done on top of plaster, my questions are:

1) is there any fear in any case of the drywall adding to much weight to the ceiling? This house was built in 1908.

2) when installing the drywall do I attach along the furs or along the studs or  where the fur overlaps the studs? The old tile where 12x12 so the furs are 1 ft spread if that makes any difference.

Hanging drywall over old plaster is very common.  If the existing strapping is securely fastened to the ceiling, you should be able to hang sheetrock.  I use 3/8" rock all the time over plaster walls and ceilings. The weight is not an issue.  You may want to check, using a stud finder to assure yourself that the  strapping is attached to the underlying floor or ceiling joists. It certainly would not do any harm to find the joists and add a screw into the strapping to be sure it is secure. The only time you might have a problem is when the strapping is only connected to lathes, and if the weight of the rock held only by lathes may sag if the lathe nails are not secure into the joists.   Good luck, go for it!


Where can I find Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS's)? Are there government websites where I can view MSDS's? Or do I need to go to the manufacturer's website or make a request to the manufacturer for the MSDS's?

Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) and Certificate of Compliance (CoC) have to come from the manufacturer or main supplier of the product. I have worked at a few places that demanded at least a CoC, and sometimes a MSDS which was usually for hazardous chemicals. Much of this is done only once  per product, unless there is a product revision. A MSDS and/or CoC maybe included with each Purchase Order (PO). There usually is no charge for these sheets, which total maybe one or two sheets each at most. They are needed by the manufacturer of products that use these materials and need proof of contents and quality. The MSDS is more detailed because it often has to list the ingredients and temperature limits, flash point, freeze point, etc. They also act also as a path from the end user who buys the final product back to the original source of the material. If a non-flammable paint catch's fire and is not supposed to, then these MSDS and CoC sheets put the burden of the problem back on the original product manufacturer or main distributor, not the final assembly plant or the consumer level distributor.


Can I rejunvenate a rubber o-ring? I have a couple of o-rings in my swimming pool's filter/pump system that are leaking a touch. This is a 4 year old system so things are getting worn and the o-rings are a bit cracked.This is the final year we're keeping this above ground pool and I'm trying to make it last the season.

Is there anything I could use to rejuvenate the o-rings or rig it up to avoid replacing them?

O-Rings are (or should be) cheap - if they are not, try to establish exactly what size they are and shop around; you should be able to find them for a pretty low cost, and replacing them is the right approach, even for "one more year."

While you can try to get a little more life out of them by greasing them up with a pretty stiff silicone grease (typically found as o-ring grease or vacuum grease) that will likely cost more than new o-rings if you don't already have a tube (it helps improve life if applied sparingly to new o-rings.) Since you mention that the o-rings are cracked, I should mention that you may find that they break completely at the cracks when you are handling them to apply grease and re-install them. If everything smiles upon you, you might manage to pack enough grease into the cracks to stop your leaks - but replacing them really is the better approach to try.


Draining 2 series connected water heaters? I have 2 series-connected water heaters.  I have sediment showing up in my shower head clogging it.  So I am thinking I need to flush my water heaters.  I understand if I have 1 water heater to shut off the inlet valve and drain the 1 unit and flush.  However, I have 2 and they are in series.  There is only 1 inlet shutoff valve that goes to the first water heater.  Do I drain and flush the first water heater then try and drain and flush the 2nd (downstream) tank?  I can see how to drain both but not sure how to flush the 2nd tank (downstream).
Thanks,
Marvin

Since you didn't say it, and it matters - first, shut off the power or fuel to both heaters, so they are not dry-fired, which will quickly destroy them. This is very important any time a water heater is not full of water.
To flush the second tank, if they are connected in series, consider the first tank as if it was a pipe.
So, shut off supply, open hot taps, drain both, turn on the supply to flush the first, close the drain on the first, let the first fill until it runs into the second, flush the second, close the drain on the second, fill until no more bubbles come out the hot taps, and only then turn the power or fuel back on.
Might want to check the anode rods while you are there.
Be alert to the possibility that malfunctioning thermostatic mixing valves (as on a shower) could route cold water back to the hot side.


Can a GFCI be used as a disconnect? New garage; the garage door lights go on every time you cross the beam, the outlets that power up the garage door lights are GFCI protected. Can I use the test button as a disconnect during the daytime hours on a daily basis?

A GFCI needs to be labeled as a disconnecting means to be used as one

A normal receptacle or deadfront GFCI is not labeled or listed for disconnecting use -- it won't kill you for abusing it that way, but it could lead to some premature wear on the GFCI's contacts, shortening its lifespan.

There are deadfront GFCIs that are listed and labeled for this task, but they are uncommon, and will have "ON" and "OFF" labeled on/near the buttons in addition to "RESET" and "TEST", as depicted below:

GFCI breakers are a different story though

However, a breaker-type GFCI is also a perfectly cromulent circuit breaker, and thus is considered a disconnecting means under the NEC even if it is not listed/labeled for SWD (Switching Duty) service.  (I know of no circumstance under the NEC where an appropriately rated circuit breaker, whether SWD listed/labeled or not, is not a legal disconnecting means.)


Is it common for faucet handles to turn in opposite directions? I just had my bathroom renovated and I noticed that cold and hot sink handles turn in opposite direction. The hot is the standard lefty lucy and righty tighty-- but the cold is the opposite (closes left and opens right). Is this something that is determined by the brand of faucet or is it just the way the contractor decided to configure it?

This is contra turn taps usually used for lever handle taps so they both turn away from the wall on a basin or turn both down in a shower or similar if used in vertical eg. Shower above and below you would get normal taps not contras so that they both turn in the same direction which are the ones that you are used to. Also re reading your post it seems that if you have lever handle taps the hot and cold taps shoul be swapped to make them both turn on when turn towards the centre of the basin.


How do you navigate an unfinished attic? My attic only has plywood around our HVAC. The rest is just covered with cellulose insulation. How do people get around their unfinished attics?

I've been up with a flashlight trying to judge where the beams are, but I know it's just one missed step before my legs are hanging through the ceiling (it happened to a friend).

Since my attic requires maintenance on solar vents and a power vent in the end gable, I took 5/8" plywood, divided it into three lengthwise strips and put a catwalk down the center of the attic. As a prior answer notes, use a small rake to fluff the insulation back over to the proper depth when you're through.

This was after a few years of playing Tarzan, catching the truss uprights and gauging where the feet went. Then you get off by two inches in a partial slip (did I mention hanging onto the truss members?) and find yourself staring ceiling repairs in the face. The plywood's cheaper than figuring out how to replace a ceiling with heating cables embedded in its lower surface.


Gap between tub and greenboard On the left is a "tongue" (Flange) of the tub that sticks out and on the right is greenboard. It seems to be about a 5/8" gap between the two and I would like to set tile here.
Can I just use thinset mortar for that big of a gap?
Or
Do I need to get concrete backer and cut it to fit that gap?

The problem you're likely to have here is different expansion and settle rates for whatever-board-that-is-attached-to-the-tub vs the greenboard behind the vanity. Tiles attached directly to both sides are likely to crack.
You can cut back either side and attach the tile directly to the other side so it covers the gap, caulk with something flexible like 100% silicone.
You could try a very flexible adhesive (possibly modified thinset, but I don't think it's flexible enough) attaching to both sides and hope the flex takes some of the stress out of the joint.
Edit:
If the left surface actually is a tub flange (it doesn't look like it is made from the same fiberglass as the rest of the tub, and there's a mortar in the corner that makes it hard to tell if it's one piece from this photo) - cut the drywall on the right flush with the edge of the vanity (or go behind the vanity if you can) and layer concrete board up to the surface of the flange. Install one large piece that overlaps the flange and is screwed into the studs but not attached to the tub flange. Install tile on the concrete board and caulk silicone along the tile-tub edge.
This assumes the tub has good support and doesn't move much  (1-2mm perhaps) when filled with water and a human.


Bring portable generator in through automatic transfer switch I currently have a portable generator, an inlet, and an interlock on the main panel to backfeed the panel.

I am moving over to an automatic transfer switch with a standby generator. However, as a backup, I am keeping my portable generator and inlet.

I would like to eliminate the interlock and bring the wires from the inlet in through the automatic transfer switch in the same way that the standby generator connects to it, and select which generator I want to use by way of a DPDT safety switch -- I already own this one.

However, the only circuit breaker that would be sized to protect the wires between the inlet and main panel (through the ATS and safety switch) would be the circuit breaker inside the generator.

Is that allowable by code? Or do I need to put in a hard-wired single-circuit breaker panel before the safety switch to protect the wires?

How about putting the automatic interlock upstream of the interlocked panel you already have?

If that is your main panel you could side-grade it to a sub panel and put a main breaker upstream of the auto-switch.


How can I connect a zwave switch that requires a neutral to 3 way box? I have a 3 way switch that looks like it's wired like the illustration below.
I would like to remove the switch shown on the left and replace the switch shown on the right with a Zwave switch that requires a neutral wire connection.

In my configuration, there is a second switch in the box on the left (which I am leaving alone) and 4 white wires which seem to be neutral, all connected with a wire nut.
There is also a second switch controlling a different load in the box on the right which is connected to a different breaker (and different breaker box) and which seems to be wired as shown in the photo below.

Ideally, I would like to also eliminate the second switch on the right and control that load using the same Zwave switch which will be placed in the box on the right. The big problem in all this seems to be that the box on the right does not have a neutral wire.
Can anyone think of a configuration that would allow:

BEST CASE: Both loads to be controlled by my Zwave switch in the box
on the right.
PLAN B: Leaving the single pole switch and load alone
and only replacing the two three way switches with my Zwave switch in
the box on the right.

Any help is much appreciated.

If I understand your description, here is one way to alter your wiring:

Basically you use the existing white wires to extend the neutral node everywhere. Use the black wires to extend the unswitched hot all the way to the Zwave. Use the red wire in the third leg to bring the switched hot back to the first two lamps, which have their hot sides connected with the other black wire in the second leg.

For the last lamp on the right, disconnect it from its breaker supply and cap off the supply cable. Then re-use its former switch cable as a switched loop now powered from the Zwave. Check the total load on the breaker that supplies the box on the left, as you are adding one lamp to it.

As you see, you have more wires than you need. Cap all abandoned wires with small wire nuts. Don't just clip them short, I did that once and got a rocket from the inspector.

I have omitted the ground wires (the bare copper) but of course you will not.

Please allow me to express my extreme gratitude to you for providing me with the opportunity to draw yet another wiring diagram.


Need to push fridge back but don't want to squish water line So I bought a new fridge that happens to be a little deeper than counter depth.  After getting the fridge to our house, we realized that our cabinetry is designed for counter depth.  We actually like the fridge despite the fact that it comes out "a little" further than it should so we are keeping it.  The only problem is that we haven't connected the water line yet.  The house was built in 2013 and it has a recessed shutoff in the wall, ready for the water line.  The only issue is that I want to be able to push the fridge back as far as possible without causing any distress to the line.  I purchased both a copper, plastic and braided stainless steel line and am willing to use whichever would be best for my situation.  I feel like since my shutoff in the wall is set directly forward that I'd benefit from some sort of right angle (elbow) connection to take away some pressure but I don't want to add more parts that could eventually fail.  Advice/suggestion?  I can provide pics if needed.

If the arrangement is typical, it will look something like this:

Perhaps from this, you can see how the copper tubing can be bent to be flat against the wall and form a coil like this:

Arranged this way, it is okay to move the fridge all the way back, pressing the tubing into position—which helps keep it from rattling.  There should be no sharp or pointed surfaces on the lower back of the refrigerator.  If there are, maybe you can cover them with heavy tape or cloth.


Replacing A/C thermostat I think that my mother has a bad thermostat.  When the A/C is turned on, the furnace blower works but not the outside unit.  However, when I press the contact switch (outside), both the compressor and fan come on.  This would seem to indicate that the proper signal is not arriving there.

Mom always had problems using the old 5-2 programmable thermostat, and the buttons no longer work, anyway.  I would like to install a simpler thermostat so that she can easily set a target temperature and select heat/cool/off.  Is there any reason this can't be done?  When I installed the programmable thermostat many years ago, the old wire colors were different from newer configurations, so I know I would have to be careful in that regard.  There are 4 wires- red, white, green and blue (yellow).

Thermostats are pretty universal, and they are really just a set of programmable contact closures at their heart.  Call for A/C?  Connect the red and yellow and green wires.  Call for only the fan?  Connect red and green, etc.  Basic electronics.

The only thing that is an issue now is some smart thermostats need to be powered.  This requires a "common" wire or C-Wire that carries a constant 24v.  If you get a basic non-wifi thermostat, you don't really need to worry about that, so you should be good.

At that point the other major option is if she has a heat pump or not.  If it's not a heat pump, it's much simpler.  If there is, just make sure the thermostat supports all the options she has.

Label the wires or take a picture before removing anything and it should be a piece of cake.


What is purpose of the slot at the base of my drill's handle? The photo below shows a drill I own; there is a slot at the base of the handle.  Is this simply to hang things from, or does it serve another purpose?

Drill is a DeWalt model DWD210G.

I think Tyler Durden is correct. Have a look at the D25013K model; there are 4 similar holes on either side, with a separate lanyard attachment point. For what reason other than air circulation would you add such holes? Seeing that they also let contaminants in, there must be a good reason beyond good looks for placing them there (maybe the trigger switch units heat up?).


Is this outlet grounded? My house was built in 1949 and some of my outlets look like this guy while others run updated Romex into plastic boxes. With the wires coming through the conduit in the plaster, are these grounded outlets? I was going to replace the outlets and want to make sure I understand what is going on with these before I do. Thanks!

Back in 1949 when your house was built, the code of the time allowed the metal shielding of the BX cable to be used as a ground. Over time these connections degrade from corrosion, and the grounding could eventually fail. Oftentimes, when a home is renovated to use non-metallic wiring (NM), the ground to existing BX cable can also become disconnected. This is likely the case with your house.

There still is a possibility that the ground is intact, but it is unlikely. You can test this with an inexpensive outlet tester like pictured below. These typically run around $10, and are a good investment. In your case, you would probably see that this outlet has an open ground. Make sure that the outlet is properly secured to the box before you test it.

If you find that the outlet is not grounded, you should avoid using it until you can have that part of your home rewired.


How awful is it to have asbestos in the drywall? I am in the process of buying a ranch-style house constructed in 1972 and my online research just made me aware of the possibility that the entire house's drywall contains asbestos. If I have it tested, and the test comes back positive, my impression is that I would need to disclose this fact to any future buyers.

Two questions:

Would this disclosure absolutely annihilate the resale value of the property and make it un-sellable without re-drywalling the whole-house? Is this an "ignorance is bliss" type of situation?
How dangerous is it really to have asbestos in drywall that's not disturbed? Is it really true that you can knock asbestos fibers loose just by putting a nail in the wall? Is this type of hazard something not really worth worrying about?

The primary occupants will be two mid-twenties adults and one 16-month old child, with more on the way.

To give some insight, when the asbestos is in a spot that cannot be removed, the asbestos is "encapsulated" as it is called. It can be a coat of paint, or plastic sheeting taped up tight. I have seen both used. Anything that keeps the surface from abrading.

In your case it is trapped between two layers of paper with numerous coats of paint over the living space side. The occasional nail you refer to is the only thing that would violate that, short of vandalism.

In my 42 years in the residential building trade, I have never heard of asbestos in drywall, then again, I only heard for the first time last year about asbestos in vermiculite house insulation.


Are my outlets unsafe? Some (but not all) of the electrical outlets in my kitchen look like this:

(I don't know what this kind of outlet is called.)

One of those outlets is where I plug in my toaster oven. In the last 6 months, I've had two toaster ovens die (become unusable at any outlet) while plugged in there. The first time, the toaster oven was old, but the second time it was a new one of a reputable brand. Also, the LED at that outlet is now off, pushing the buttons does nothing, and the outlet provides no power.

I have only a vague idea that these outlets have circuit breakers for safety. It seems like the one with the LED out needs repair. But I'm concerned about the significance of the toaster dying. Should I be worried about my wiring? Might I have a safety issue here?

No. A toaster oven is (mostly) just a resister. You'd have to see a large surge to kill a toaster oven. I don't think any other electrical malfunction would kill it.

Your outlet is probably fine, and I think you're suffering from bad luck.


Is there an easier way to remove glued-down hardwood than hammer & pry bar? In preparation for putting in a new hardwood floor, we've taken the existing laminate out and discovered what appears to be the original parquet hardwood floor underneath. The parquet squares are glued to the concrete subfloor, and I believe they must be taken out to accommodate the new floor (chevron hardwood, which requires a perfectly flat surface).

Is there an affordable, less labour-intensive way to remove these squares than chiseling them out with a hammer and pry bar?

It is a shame because it sounds as if your parquet is a good sound floor. If it is that hard to remove then you could lay straight onto it but I imagine there are height issues.

You can hire a small SDS masonry chisel which should get them up faster. Wear ear and eye protection.  I have a larger machine of this type on wheels that I use on commercial buildings. It saves hours of work.


Ceiling fan stops after a few seconds I just installed a ceiling fan on our patio. When turning on the power, the fan starts spinning as I would expect it to. After a few seconds however, the fan seems to be spinning only through inertia and eventually comes to a stop.  It doesn't seem to start again after waiting for a while (at least ten minutes)  Turning the switch off and on again will once more cause the fan to spin up, but it just stops once again shortly thereafter.

The direction switch on the fan doesn't change anything. The same behavior occurs whether the fan is set to spin clockwise or counter-clockwise.

Any ideas on what could be the cause and potential solution?

In case it's helpful, this is a 52" Tilghman fan by Harbor Breeze (#0294981) installed with a separately purchased 48" downrod.

In a comment on the question, overslacked wrote:

  Do you have a voltage sensor or
  multimeter you could use to see if
  power is being constantly supplied? Is
  there anything special about the
  switch being used to control the fan?

Turns out these questions implied the actual answer:  The wiring is incorrect.


How can I tell if it is safe to clip these wires? We recently bought a little old house with a detached garage that had been converted into a study or studio. There's a great sagging bundle of cables running from the main house to the studio. Some are obviously phone lines, some look like coax cable. None are obviously power lines, but there's definitely electricity in the studio.

We don't have a landline and when we set up our cable they ran a new cable line, and I assume that if we ever wanted a landline they'd start that from scratch, too. So I'd really like to cut these cables, but I obviously don't want to go out with my wire cutter and snip the power line.

Where the power lines come into the main junction box from the street they run through porcelain insulators. I haven't figured out where the power for the studio actually runs.

I've tried to trace them to their respective sources, but at various points they've been painted over and it is really hard to sort out where each wire is coming from or going to.

So my question is: how do I ensure that I won't electrocute myself before I cut any particular wire?

If you go over to Amazon and search "voltage sensor" you can find several quality sensors for less than fifteen bucks. Once you have it, you can place the probe near the wires in question, and the probe will signal if there is any hazardous voltage present. This is an item that should be in any Do-It-Yourselfer's tool box.


Removing Caulk from Quartz bathroom countertop My contractor used white silicon caulk on my quartz tri-colored brand new bathroom countertop, smearing it in a wide swath on all the seams where backsplash meets the countertop. My quartz countertop is black, brown, and tan spots on a vanilla background. This pure white caulk looks hideous. Want to know how to remove the caulk and does it even need caulking since the backsplash was sealed underneath where it sits on the countertop - there are no gaps. The new bathroom sink was caulked with a clear silicon that doesn't show. Shouldn't the quartz seams look nearly invisible? The countertop has only been in a week. I don't want to scratch the quartz. What can I do to take off the caulk and remedy this?

Once pure silicone is cured there are no cleaners or solvents, that I'm aware of (maybe an acid), to remove or dissolve it. I've had very good success removing dried silicone that had not been applied carefully by "pushing" it off the surface. With your thumb or pointer finger apply pressure on the wayward silicone smear pushing back and forth. If the bead is thin the friction that is created by your digit will start peeling it off the surface. The alternative is to very cautiously slice the sealer off with a single edged blade. Be alert, even though quartz is a fairly hard mineral a sharp edge can still nick the surface. Keep the blade angle low; 25-30 degrees and push with easy short strokes. Depending on the countertop composition, silicone is used frequently as an adhesive and a sealer. Its color is usually matched to the most prominent color of the countertop. For a neat and discreet caulk bead, blue painters tape can be placed as a protective border so that any caulking that spreads beyond the intended area will be removed with the tape.


How can I reduce the force required to operate double-hung windows? I'm looking to create or even just buy a product that can be mounted onto any single- or double-hung window where the user doesn't need a lot of force to open/close a window. This is for an elderly home where the windows are hard to open for the older folks. They don't have much strength to push up or down the windows. I was thinking of creating a hand crank linked to some gear teeth along the window to make it easier for them to open it. An electronic system would work too, but that would require running a power line or changing batteries.

Have there been any solutions for such a requirement? I'm sure it has come up for the handicapped and elderly.

The wooden framed double hung sash design dates from a time when no elderly person was ever left alone long enough to open or close a window. Families were large and any oldster who wanted a window operated would simply whack the nearest youngster with a cane and croak out the appropriate orders.

Today the demographic age curve is quite different and there are not enough window operators to go around. I expect sash window easy-open aftermarket add-on devices to appear on the market any day now, as soon as us boomers form a significant market.

Meanwhile, I have two recalcitrant windows in my kitchen which are not only stiff but awkwardly placed above counters. Here is what I installed to operate them.

For each window, I used four pulleys (about 1.25"), two anchors (I used screw eyes), and a long cord. I attached one pulley and one anchor to the window frame top, one pulley to the inner sash top, one pulley to the inner sash bottom, and one pulley and one anchor to the window frame bottom. I rigged the long cord according to this schematic diagram:

Pulling down on the green section of the cord raises the window. Pulling down on the blue section, or up on the green section, lowers the window. The force advantage is 2 to 1.

The pulleys are actually on the center line; they are offset in the diagram to show the rigging. Pulleys 3 and 5 are turned, and pulley 4 is shimmed out, to bring the blue and green cords out away from the sash frame. The red cords are almost touching the frames.

(The cords are red, blue, and green only in the diagram. My actual cords are ecru.)

You cannot use small pulleys for this project because moving the window involves turning all four of them.

My wife and kids ridiculed this lashup when they first saw it, so I invited them to take up a collection and shop for other solutions. No takers so far.


How to handle frayed/old wire in can light We have some can lights in our house that have been out since we purchased it. I finally took the time to replace them (they are on a vaulted ceiling). I found some exposed wire as I was going along and brittle wire insulation. I used electrical tape to patch it up, but I started getting worried as I went on and kept finding more.

The last can I took apart had the worst yet:

The can says to use 50w bulbs. I found the exact same bulb that they had originally used here here on amazon. This is a 50w equivalent that apparently uses 39w.

I thought it wasn't worth it and cut out the socket, then taped up the ends of the wires. I showed this image to some co-workers and they think that the halogen is most likely causing too much heat.

I thought about replacing the lights with LED variants and trying to pull out the wire through the can to get a section that hasn't been fried. I don't know how much slack there is.

Is this a valid solution? Do I need to call a professional?

I am looking at the 3 clips on either side of the socket and I am guessing the cans frame is a remodel type. This means you can take it down from the ceiling and then either replace the entire can or replace the socket and the wiring. Those clips can be loosened with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers and the entire frame can be pulled down from the ceiling. If they are not remodel frames, can you access the frame from the attic or crawlspace or you can take apart the can frame and you will see a junction box on the side.

If you do this you can replace the wiring between this j-box and the socket. Be sure to use high heat fixture wiring which you can purchase from a fixture parts supplier. Do not use thhn/thwn. If the cans are remodel frame you can just replace the entire fixture frame.

I vote for replacement. They are fairly inexpensive and not that hard to install.

Good luck.


How do I replace the pin on a tub rocker My tub rocker arm split in half, as the rightmost pin/rivet broke.
Is there any way to fix apart from buying a new assembly?
I've never seen a brass rivet/pin available for sale.

Ecnerwal had the correct idea.

I cut off a piece of 10 AWG copper wire, fitted it it through the empty hole, and used a vise to bend it and mushroom the ends.


motor hums, light works, fan won't turn I just hung a ceiling fan with light fixture.  I wired black to black and white to white.  The fan and light are operated by a remote.  The light will go on, motor hums, but the fan won't turn.  I have installed many fans before and never had this problem.

Could be a mechanical problem.  Try this: with the power OFF, try to rotate the fan with your finger. It should spin freely for awhile after you poke it.  If not, then something is mechanically impeding the travel of the fan blades.

Check for anything touching any part of that rotating fan assembly.  Maybe some left-over protective packaging that you missed?  Or a wire that is bent in and pushing on the blades?

If not the above then good chance this is just a defective fan motor.


Does the height of a water heater safety valve matter? I just replaced the safety valve on my water heater. The only immediately available replacement was an inch taller than the original. It is still in contact with the water. Is it safe?

This is the exact fit replacement part (it was not in stock locally): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-3-1-4-in-Standard-Shank-Water-Heater-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-SP12574/205651345

This is the part I bought (it is taller and the temperature rod is shorter): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Acme-3-4-in-Bronze-NCLX-5LX-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-with-2-1-2-in-Shank-MNPT-Inlet-x-FNPT-Outlet-23577-0150/203164748

Is this replacement part adequately safe or should I go ahead and order the exact fit?

TPR valve shall extend into the heater tank and monitor the temperature in the top 6 inches of the heater. The discharge pipe shall terminate within 6 inches over the floor and not have any threads on the end, nor are there to be any valves in it.

All pressurized storage-type water heaters and unfired hot water storage tanks shall be equipped with one or more combination temperature and pressure relief valves. The temperature steam rating of a combination temperature and pressure relief valve or valves shall equal or exceed the energy input rating in BTU per hour of the water heater. No shut off valve or other restricting device may be installed between the water heater or storage tank and the combination temperature and pressure relief valve.

All pressurized non-storage type water heaters shall be provided with a pressure relief valve installed at the hot water outlet with no shut off valve between the heater and the relief valve.

3. Temperature and pressure relief valves shall be installed so that the sensing element of the valve extends into the heater tank and monitors the temperature in the top 6 inches of the heater or tank.

Every relief valve which is designed to discharge water or steam shall be connected to a discharge pipe.
5 (a) The discharge pipe and fittings shall be made of a material acceptable for water distribution piping in accordance with s.Comm 84.30 (4) (e) 1.
5 (b) The discharge pipe and fittings shall have a diameter not less than the diameter of the relief valve outlet.
5 (c) The discharge pipe may not be trapped.
5 (d) No valve may be installed in the discharge pipe.

5 (e) The discharge pipe shall be installed to drain by gravity flow to a floor served by a floor drain or to a receptor in accordance with s. Comm 82.33 (8). The outlet of the discharge pipe shall terminate within 6 inches over the floor or receptor, but not less than a distance equal to twice the diameter of the outlet pipe. The discharge pipe may not be threaded.

(source)


Replacing #6 Ground Wire Do I need to replace #6 solid copper ground wire from Service panel to water pipes with #4 solid copper wire in 1997 construction as recommended by inspector?

Interpretation of Article 250 Part III to be a little hard to keep up with, and it seems like the members of the NFPA take great pleasure in tweaking it in every edition.
Generally the paragraph that allows maximum #6 copper to "Rod, Pipe, or Plate" electrodes is not interpreted to include water pipe, so you would need #4 copper, but not necessarily solid.
Table 250.66 (or 250.104 if just a metal piping bonding jumper) references size of feeder to the service, which you would expect a 200A service to be fed by 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum for the GEC. The Table shows #4 copper or #2 aluminum, 250.62 allows stranded or solid.
A metal underground water pipe also requires a supplemental electrode.
I don't have a copy of or even know what edition of the NEC was adopted locally for your location for 1997, and don't know what exceptions may have been locally enforced.


How should I wire for a security system during construction? I would like to run wires in anticipation of a future hard-wired security system.  However, I have yet to find any information that pulls everything together regarding what is required.

From what I understand 22/4 wire should be run to each window and door where a sensor of some type with be placed.  These wires should all be run to a central location where the alarm control panel will be installed (in my case, most likely the basement).

What I have yet to find a solid answer on is what is typically run to the keypads.  Do I run cat5/6, or use the same security wire (or both)?

Once I run the wires to each window, where do I leave the wire?  Do I just leave a coil of wire stapled to the stud?  Should I drill a small hole in the rough window frame, and pull the wire through?  If I do drill a hole, where should the hole be positioned?

I guess I'm questioning the workflow more than anything.  For instance, do those putting up the sheetrock, installing windows, or those installing the molding around the window typically know how to deal with these wire?

I will not be installing the system for months after we move in, so would prefer not to have cables sticking out of the window frame until the install is complete.  Do I have any chance of fishing the wire out if I drill a small hole in a window frame?  I'm assuming not, and thinking in would be easiest to just have it pulled through.

What I have yet to find a solid answer on is what is typically run to the keypads. Do I run cat5/6, or use the same security wire (or both)?

I recommend running 22/4 and cat5e from the security panel to the keypads.  That provides lots of options.

Once I run the wires to each window, where do I leave the wire?

I recommend leaving a coil of wire in the window return.

Should I drill a small hole in the rough window frame, and pull the wire through?

Yes.  Exactly.

If I do drill a hole, where should the hole be positioned?

Somewhere that meets these criteria:

a spot that minimizes the run of exposed cable from the window frame to the contact
in a position that won't interfere with the installation of window coverings
in a position that lends itself to finishing the window frame area (e.g. avoid spots that will become finished vertices)

I guess I'm questioning the workflow more than anything. For instance, do those putting up the sheetrock, installing windows, or those installing the molding around the window typically know how to deal with these wire?

In general, the other trades will make sure your wire doesn't get buried, but where it ends up and in what condition it will be in is uncertain.
I recommend installing the windows before wiring.  If the returns are drywall, I recommend one of the following:

install your own peice of Sheetrock on the part of the return where the wire is run
have your contractor board the drywall returns but not the walls or ceilings before you wire

If your returns are wood, I recommend coiling wire on the studs inside the window frames, and working out a specific plan for how the wires will be handled with your carpenter just before he starts work.

I will not be installing the system for months after we move in, so would prefer not to have cables sticking out of the window frame until the install is complete. Do I have any chance of fishing the wire out if I drill a small hole in a window frame?

Not likely.  If you are concerned about aesthetics, just finish the contact install for those windows that matter.
Motion Sensors and Keypads
Unlike window contacts, these are mounted to the walls like any other electrical device.  I recommend using open-backed electrical boxes rather than just a hole in the sheetrock.  There is some more information about them in this question.
Hidden Door Contacts
I recommend this type of door contact for doors that open inward.  It fits right in the top of the door frame.  The contact itself will need to be installed when you rough-in.


PVC hole repair in tight space I have a PVC pipe inside the wall in the right front corner of my office closet.  It has holes in it, and it carries washing machine water from washing machine to the basement to dispose of it however it does.  The holes are causing water to leak every time I do laundry.

I purchased a pipe repair wrapping kit, and was just about to repair, when I realized that behind the pipe is a another wall and there isn't enough space to bring the wrap around behind the PVC.

So as far as I can tell, I have two options:

Go and buy a Fernco and connect them that way (I may yet have the same problem-I'm not sure the Fernco would fit either)
Cut into the wall behind the pipe and make a square so I have room to wrap.

I don't like 2 because I don't know what's behind the back wall, and I think it will be difficult to repair the drywall.

Here's a picture (the holes in the pipe are there because I'm a moron):

I could use some guidance.

The correct way to repair a damaged PVC pipe is of course to cleanly cut away the damaged portion and use a coupler. But, because this is a drain pipe and thus isn't pressurized, you could probably get away with just using epoxy to repair the holes.

Buy a PVC-suitable epoxy that's listed for use with water (e.g., J-B Weld makes a product called Waterweld), follow the directions, and liberally apply it to plug the holes. Clean off all the burrs from the holes first, to ensure a good bond. Make sure to give it plenty of time to dry before using your washing machine.


Shower head discharges water when not using Shower head discharges water periodically during day for a few minutes when shower has not been used in months. Shower only, no tub and all plumbing and fixtures 2 yrs old.

With so many generic cartridges out there, the tolerances are not as exact as they used to be and the seals aren't as tight. You could have a slight, temporary spike in the water pressure that would force water through a not so tight seal and out the shower head. The spike could be from your own home, shutting off a faucet or from the water system into your house.


Identifying Replacement Parts for My Bathtub I need to identify what parts I need to buy to replace this.
We can't even shower its completly stripped

This is one of those projects that you need to turn the water off, if just hot make sure no one turns another faucet on with cold and hot or water will come out once the valve stem is removed.
Remove the trim
There should be a nut remove the nut (it’s called the packing nut)
The valve body may come out with the nut
If the valve body stays turn the stem and remove
Take that assembly to a local plumbing store.
Match up the assembly.
If it has a rubber washer seal seat get one for the new valve and one for the cold they are cheap,,  buy a box of them then when the new faucet gets hard to turn off you change the washer, seat/seal or whatever you want to call it (it looks like a little round volcano when new when worn out it looks like a flat o ring held in by a brass screw.
Install the new valve with a new washer/seal, seat.
Natal the packing nut there is usually a seal here also
The packing is many times a PFTE string or cord it may be white or black impregnated with graphite.
The PFTE is wrapped around the shaft and the packing nut compresses the seal so it won’t leak.
Replace the trim
Turn water on and verify no leaks. And the valve works.


Plywood over rigid foam over concrete: will I have moisture issues? Short version: If I install 3" of rigid foam over a poured concrete foundation wall that has been sealed with Xypex, will I have any moisture issues if I install plywood directly over the rigid?

Longer version:
I'm finishing a basement space as an eventual bedroom.  To be code-compliant, I'll need to bring the walls up to R-15 (and address egress as well, but that's another subject).  My basement walls are comprised of 4 feet of poured concrete with 3.5 feet of framing on top.  I'd like to save as much square footage as possible, and therefore not build a 2x4 interior wall after installing rigid.

The plan I've devised is to tackle the upper, framed portion of the wall and the lower, poured concrete portion of the wall separately (see image).

Upper, framed portion: air seal the stud bays (exterior sheathing is butted board), stuff bays with rock wool, and install 1/2" drywall.
Lower, concrete portion: seal concrete with Xypex, install 3" rigid foam (polyiso?) with adhesive, install 3/4" plywood

Electrical will be installed with surface-mounted conduit to the plywood.

No foundation sealer is perfect, but will my wall still breathe enough that I won't experience any moisture issues?

My contingency plan would be to add 1" furring strips to the rigid, then install the plywood over that.

If you have water problems in your basement, look to the exterior of the house for solutions.  Mainly, get water to flow away from or around the foundation.  If water is building pressure behind the concrete, it's only a matter of time before it finds a way in.  In a high-precipitation area, painting the inside of the basement is unlikely to stop the water for long.  If the sealing fails, then you have water trapped behind the foam and that's going to lead to other (smelly) problems.  Previous owners of my home tried to seal the basement from the inside and it simply led to the deterioration of the concrete  at various points.

If you have an old drain-tile setup with actual ceramic drain-tile, get it updated.  The whole strategy of those systems was often inherently flawed.


Can sill plates extend one inch beyond the foundation wall to accommodate foam insulation? Is it ok to have the sill plate 1 inch past the concrete all the way around the house to allow for 2 in foam to the foundation.

Yes. This is a fairly common practice. More important is that the joists, walls, and anything else bearing on the plate have adequate support directly below from the foundation (not including the overhang).

It's also standard practice that the designer or engineer draw this into plans. Floor truss providers will need to account for the additional length needed, for example.


GFCI outlet doesn't work after reconnecting I reconnected my GFCI outlet but now it doesn't output electricity even though the current coming in tests positive (with a pen like current testing device). I also pressed the reset button, to no avail.

What are some reasons GFCI outlets won't output current to a plug even though proper current comes in? The other (non GFCI) outlets on the same circuit work fine.

Actually, it was the reset button, which needed to be pressed after flipping the breaker switch on.


Is it ok to use 14/2 wire out of a light in order to wire a receptacle into the ceiling? I have a light in my workroom which I want to run some LED strip lights off of. I was going to use a simple light socket to outlet adapter and plug them in, but I just found out they need a ground plug. Is it ok (and up to code) to wire a receptacle in the ceiling using a new wire out of the light fixture using 14/2 wiring? I would assume this is running off of a 15 Amp breaker already, but I suppose I should check.

Yes, you can do that.
However, one possible catch is GFCI.
Generally speaking, GFCI is now required in many areas, including unfinished basements, workrooms, etc. GFCI is, in most cases, not required for permanently installed lighting fixtures. In addition, GFCI, when used, has to be accessible - not in a receptacle in the ceiling.
Assuming you need GFCI for a receptacle in this room (which is likely but not an absolute), and assuming the circuit is not already GFCI-protected (which is likely the case - lighting circuits are not usually GFCI-protected), that leaves three options:

Install GFCI protection at the breaker or someplace earlier in the circuit.
Install a receptacle but within reach (i.e., on a wall in the first 6', rather than in the ceiling) and put GFCI there.
Use hardwired (permanently installed) lighting instead of plug-in lighting.


Removed sink, now what? We've decided to replace the sink (which was way too small) with one from Ikea.

This is how it looks after the removal:

Now for the problems:

The sink that was there before was a free-hanging one, the new one isn't. That's why there are these two big screws on top.  We tried to remove them with a pipe wrench, but it didn't even move a bit. What should we do with them? Cut them off with an angle grinder?
The tap supply seems to be too high. It's upper border is touching with the sink's porcelain. Is there a way to move it down somehow?

Unfortunately, you have gotten yourself into a situation that is most likely going to require opening the wall to replumb the water supplies and possibly the drain. If you have access to the back through another wall, then you will not have to remove some tiles. If you don't have access, then you have to open it up from the front, not an easy job. The support bolts are probably secured to a horizontal stud and bolted on both sides of the stud to prevent them from turning.

Is it possible to see a pic of what you took out and what you want to install?


Gas fireplace venting issue I have a Empire CIBV-20-30 natural gas fireplace I installed in my home. It has 5.5 ft of vertical stack and 19 inches of horizontal stack going through the wall. I used the specified 4" bvent.

When it gets below 35 degrees outside the fire place will not vent. I have tried a horizontal cap, turning the pipe down 45 degrees, 90 degrees, and adding 2 ft of vertical outside. Nothing seems to work. It burns until the temp limit switch shuts it down and no venting happens. When its 40 degrees out or above it vents beautifully.

Any suggestions?

Tony

Gas , oil, and wood need air( oxygen) to burn , then the flue gas can be vented. So , let in some air, A K A -open a window. When I lived in a colder climate , I always provided an air inlet , generally a duct pipe from outside to near the furnace, or fireplace in this case. Newer furnaces are generally required to have an ejector fan on the exhaust vent because newer houses are well sealed and it is difficult for a natural draft to work. The lower the outside temperature , the more the problem.


Annual KWh usage of electric ignition on gas water heater I'm shopping for a new gas water heater and looking at possibly purchasing a more efficient version with electric ignition.  However, I'm curious as to whether some of the savings will be offset by the electric usage.  Does anyone know how many standby watts (or estimated annual KWh) are used by the electric ignition?  The specific model I'm considering is linked here, but I am interested in anyone's measurements for similar type of water heaters.

I ended up getting a Rheem XG40T12DM40UO instead.  According to my Kill-A-Watt it uses the following amounts of power, depending on the state of the water heater:

Standby, Idle: <= 1 Watt
Damper active open/close: ~4 Watts  (lasts about 10 seconds or so)
Active burn:  ~4 Watts


Making low voltage prettier/weatherproof? I've got a big hole in my exterior wall where several coax and (old) phone cables punch through. It's just... there in the stucco. All of my low voltage wires are just hanging out on the outside wall too and I'd like to clean it up/weatherproof everything a bit.
I will eventually be running ethernet through the wall there as well (the hole's already there so why not) so I didn't just want to seal it up with caulk and walk away. So I have a couple of questions:

Would putting a LB connector or exterior box over the hole in my wall and then running some PVC conduit back to the cable company box be against any kind of national code?
If I use an LB can I mount it sideways as long as I'm caulking behind it and using watertight conduit?
Do conduit straps/surface-mount box screws have to penetrate the wall to a stud or can they just go into the stucco?
I've got one coax run (exiting the cable company box midway on left side) running up to the second floor, pretty close to the electrical weatherhead. Is there a keep out zone I should be aware of if I wanted to put that cable in conduit as well?

I'd slap up a 6" box, maybe PVC with threaded entries, and then use weathertight screw-in cable clamps to bring each data cable into the box.
And I'd either glue and caulk the back of the box to the wall... or have conduit go through the wall from that box, and fill the rest of the hole.  My concern is animals or insects using the hole as a superhighway.


Why is there gasoline in my generator's crankcase? Briggs & Stratton portable generator blowing white smoke.  when checking the oil level gas poured out.

At the bottom of the carburetor is a bowl and inside is a float-actuated valve.  Gas is gravity fed from the tank to the bowl, and when the bowl fills up, the valve is supposed to close off flow from the tank.  When that fails, gas can continue through the carburetor and into the idle engine, and eventually make its way into the oil at the bottom of the crankcase.
You will need to thoroughly clean the carb, and I'd recommend installing an inline fuel cut-off valve.  Lastly, you'll want to change the oil.


Can structure with plumbing sit on floating slab? I understand that a structure with any sort of installations coming from the ground should be anchored with a concrete footer below the frost line in order to avoid floating on frost heave, which would rip the pipes out. So when I built my detached shed some years ago, I did that and now I can have water in it all winter long, by using my frost hydrant that shuts the water off below the frost line.

I also plan to build a new home off-grid-ish. I plan first to have electricity brought in and then a well drilled. But before I start digging for a foundation, I would like to set up a mobile home as a staging dwelling. The area (Colorado) definitely freezes over the winter.

Can a structure with plumbing sit on a floating slab or on piers in an area exposed to frost? If I do set piers, how do I protect the pipe between the ground and where it enters the structure? Any additional material on improvising mobile residences with plumbing in frost conditions is welcome.

I used to live in a mobile home in Montana. The lot was compacted gravel and the home sat on a number of cinder block stacks leveled with wood wedges between the block and frame. Water and gas were connected to the home using a 2 foot length of flexible pipe. We never had a problem with frost heaving. Just be certain to insulate and run a heat tape around the water pipe and skirt the home properly. Skirting will pay for itself by your second month of heating your home.


How do I repair my cracked shower pan? My shower pan, made of gel-coated fiber glass, has three cracks, as shown in the photo below. The cracks radiate fairly straight from the drain in the center at twelve, four, and eight o'clock. (All of the other white streaks are just gel-coat coloring.)

I ground away the cracks and filled them with epoxy, which seems to work okay for the time being. But I would like to know what my options are for a more permanent fix that won't significantly reduce the value.

Replacing the pan is the last thing I want to do. The pan matches the shower walls and a whirlpool bath. A lot of things would have to come out to get to the pan, and I can't imagine a matching pan replacement would be found.

I saw a video where someone had what appeared to be a process for this kind of repair. This involved what looked like an epoxied sheet that covers the entire pan bottom on the top side. I don't know what this is called and I don't know what kind of tradesman I should contact to do this sort of fix. (It doesn't seem like something that a plumber/pipe-fitter type would specialize in.) If someone can point me in the right direction for this, I would appreciate it.

Any other ideas on what I can do and what is common for addressing this sort of problem would be appreciated.

The shower is on the second floor and there is some water damage to the ceiling below. As I walk around the shower pan, I can hear some creaking, and I assume this will lead to flexing and open the cracks up again. I may need to resolve that, too, in the final fix. Does anyone have any suggestions about this?

Also, help with the tags would be appreciated.

Update

From what I have seen in the answers and comments, I need to seriously reconsider how I might remove the pan from the top, remove the subfloor, mitigate any water damage between the subfloor and ceiling below, then rebuild in reverse.

I need to understand how the pan is seated, so I have to examine the situation a little more. But I may be able (with some risk of damage) to remove the shower wall on the shower-head side and remove the short wall under the seat at the other end. Remove the glass enclosure (I did this once before, but I did a hell of a job gluing it back together :( )Without removing the wall opposite the glass door, I might be able to lift the pan out carefully. I have to disengage the drain first, and I don't know how that attaches to the pan. (Do I need to open up the ceiling below so I can get to it from there?)

This sounds complicated mostly because I'm guessing how it's all put together and how things are fastened to each other.

My goal would be to repair the pan rather than replace it.

Putting it back together, I suppose I can strengthen the pan with fiberglass on the bottom. As for dealing with irregularities that could cause it to rock, isn't there something I can bed the pan onto the subfloor with?

You need to fall out of love with this pan - it is broke.  Why would you want to go through all of this work and compromise your work with a broken pan?  This is a decent size project - GET A NEW PAN.  If you want cheap get a used (unbroken) pan off of craigslist.  These pans are not that much compared to how much it will cost you to do this again.


Lights are flickering on and off after accidentally bumping into light switch During the night, I accidentally bumped into my light switch, jamming it in towards itself. Now, the lights in my room will sometimes flicker on and off very quickly when after turning on the lights. My mother, who has no experience with electrical work, wants to unscrew the light switch cover and see what's going wrong. Is this safe? I'm suggesting that we call an electrician, but she wants to inspect it herself first.

Removing the cover to look at the switch is safe IF you first turn off power to the circuit at the breaker panel.  If you aren't completely sure which circuit it is, then either turn them all off, or double-check with a multimeter or non-contact voltage detector.

However, most likely you will not be able to see what's wrong with the switch because the damage will be inside the plastic housing.  Since basic light switches cost less than $1, I'd recommend just replacing it.  It's a simple task that's easy to DIY.  Here's one guide, or you can find a dozen others by googling how to change a light switch.


Can cement backer board be used to support bluestone or slate outdoor raised patio? We are designing a multi-level stone patio.  To exit the kitchen directly onto the stone patio, the highest part of that patio would be 12 inches above the foundation. The next level would be flush with foundation, supported by a poured concrete slab (elevated with cinderblock, reinforced with rebar, filled with crushed gravel and another layer, etc.).

What is the best way to elevate the upper patio to meet the level of the exterior door?

One idea was to pour a slab to the level of the current foundation, create the necessary elevation from there, (16" center joists?), install cement board over joists, then lay stone or outdoor tile directly onto cement board. The area is not covered so the manufacturer warranty is less than when using for an indoor application.  Any better ideas?

Has anyone used cement board outside on a floor (not wall) and had it hold up 10 years? 15 years?

(There was a question about this with an outdoor bbq about 4 years ago, but no update on final solution and results of that project.)

I don't know how to link to another question, but it was from Ronnie, titled
What cement board do I use for an outdoor bbq?

I would say the poured step, with proper expansion gap, however, PT lumber with the proper sub-floor/underlayment then backer board.

If you just use backer board, then tile/stone/etc, you will have the "floor" flex every time you walk on it. Crumble, crack, crumble, snap and you fall through. Water and backer board are not a good mix either. It is not concrete, but cement so it has no structural component. Backer board is the rough surface that allows the grout to adhere.

In other words, if you build a box step, use the same technic you would for an interior floor. Then seal it with a sealer to protect from water as best you can.


How can I  vent this dryer? I am installing a mini washer/dryer into a second story bathroom.  I want it to be the safest and easiest installation that I can do myself.   I understand the basics: minimum 4" diameter tube.  Use hard tubing not flexitube, No more than 25' and subtract 2.5' for each 90 deg bend, etc...  But here are a couple questions about doing it right in my particular situation.

Most dryer venting systems are attached to the wall.  In my case, there is already a conduit under the floor where I am laying pipe.  The conduit is between a major beam and a 12" floor plank which will be under the bathroom floor.  I want to run my dryer vent in that conduit.  But access to the conduit will be on the floor.   Can you do that?

The venting pipe will go into the garage attic, make a 90 deg bend and then go 10' to the nearest outside wall.  The outside wall happens to be above the garage roof.  The vent will exit on the second story about 2' above the surface of the garage roof.   Is this acceptable?   ( I see other cases where people vent dryers onto their roofs.  I don't know if its a good practice.)

If you have it too long with too many bends you will be creating a fire hazzard.  You need to be able to clean out that dryer vent.  If you have it running 15' one way and 10' another with 90 degree turns, then you might run into fire safty issues.  If you can put it up against an outside wall, make your hole there on the second story.  This will save you money, reduce fire risk greatly, and you wont have to pay a small fortune to have someone run a 30' snake to clean it every year.


Is water inside a washing machine motor normal? So, our drain pump stopped working after washing some bloody disintegrating rug, and everything was cloaked with some kind of sand.
The drain pump was failing but we could still hear the motor running.
We took apart the machine, and the drain pump. Now, the drain pump-motor combination has the typical impeller, and the coils are well separated from the turning part.
When opening the motor housing, we noticed sand and water inside the housing.
Is that normal, or a problem?
We watched another video where somebody is taking apart such housing, and in his case as well, there is water and residue inside the housing.
Thanks for insights!

Motors that use cooling water normally Chanel the water through the motor without any water coming in contact with the windings.
The insulation on motor windings is very thin and a motor may run for a while when wet but water usually will Usually cause a failure . I bake motors out that have gotten wet and they are ok in many cases but if it fails on start up they are usually toast. So dry the motor out reassemble and good luck.
If you have a small electric heater put the motor windings in front of that for 6-8 hours I have saved large electric motors by doing this when they did not fit in my motor oven just the hot air blowing over the coils will dry it off and reduce the chances of the motor shorting out soon because of moisture.


What, if anything can you attach to a beam? I'm flipping a row home.  I had two rotting beams that had to be replaced.  Because of the way they align with the existing joists, they will extend below the height of the sheetrock.
The two ideas I heard were to box it off with sheetrock or box it off with premium wood for aesthetic reasons.  I always thought you weren't supposed to attach anything to beams (other than joists).  I don't even put wire staples in beams.  Is there a correct way of handling this?

Beams are designed to support “Live Loads” and “Dead Loads”.
All materials that are applied to a beam will make them deflect. If you use material like gypsum board it may crack, because it’s not designed to deflect. If you use wood trim or siding, it won’t crack because it’s made to deflect (somewhat).
If you don’t know the design or the live and dead loads accounted for in the design, I’d use some 3/4” thick wood trim and stain to match other trim in the room.