Problem controlling propane free-standing stove with a millivolt thermostat Heat only millivolt non-programmable thermostat stops turning propane stove on after 20 years. Stove turns on/off just fine using manual switch in back of stove. So I assume thermostat bad and replace with another millivolt unit. New unit turns stove on just fine, stove runs fine, reaches temperature, then turns off. Now thermostat will not turn stove on no matter what. Manufacturer says it is bad, I get replacement and it does exactly same thing. Turns stove on once, turns it off, then nothing. Checking thermostats, they are operating fine and closing circuit even after thermostat fails to start stove. Wires are just fine, thermostat about 30' from stove, stove operates as it should with manual switch. Checked all connections and tightened. Shorting the two wires -- usually -- turns stove on but not always. When thermostat won't start stove, shorting wires will not start stove. Stove manual switch works just fine and is closing same circuit in stove?? Obviously something weird, probably has to do with the millivolt generator (pilot light always works fine - no problem) or the thermocouple. Stove dealer scratching head. Anyone have a solution or idea as to what it could be? Maybe millivolt generator putting out too low voltage? I haven't measured that but thermostat turning stove on and off once and then not anymore after that would not make sense. Thanks for any suggestions.

Shorting the two wires -- usually -- turns stove on but not always. When thermostat won't start stove, shorting wires will not start stove.

That might indicate a thermocouple problem.  The thermocouple makes the electricity which the millivolt thermostat is turning on and off.  That electricity opens the gas valve.

Stove turns on/off just fine using manual switch in back of stove.

Oh, well, then. If that manual switch is directly operating the gas, that still points to thermocouple.
If it electrically shorts the wires (as the thermostat does), then that would seem to exclude the thermocouple.  That would point to the wiring in the walls, and 99% of the time, a "wiring in the walls" problem is actually a "loose/corroded/faulty terminal connection".


Sanded polyurethane off Had a mess up on my poly with streaks so decided to redo and take back down to wood. Is it necessary to redo the sides or can I just sand down over the end and leave the rest as per picture.

Thanks!

I would just sand the top down the edges look ok, you will want to use a fine sand paper after finished sanding and go over the edge , then when refinishing the top blend them together.


splicing wire in the attic I have an overhead service wire set going from my house to the shop. It looks like (2) 2/0 insulated aluminum wires and (1) bare aluminum. I have been looking for the breaker for it and could not find a wire this thick going into the electrical service panel. I finally found a junction box in the attic. The large service wires go into the attic junction box and two sets of 12/3 Romex carry the load between this box and the service panel through a 30 amp fuse located in the service panel. Obviously, I need to change this. Was thinking of adding 2/0 from the service panel to this junction box (approx 15 ft) and changing the breaker to 100 amp. Can I make a splice this large in the attic or do I need to purchase the expensive service entry wire and run all the way to the shop, approx 300 ft?

With a proper sized breaker for the feeder you can splice in a junction box, make to use splices that are approved for aluminum wire and a oxide inhibitor like deox or noalox but it can be done at an accessible location like your attic.


How long does concrete dust take to settle I'm getting some wiring done and having the electrician chase the new wires.
The walls are concrete so I know that this is going to make a huge mess and need serious work after the electrical stuff is done.

But one guy I spoke to said to remember that the Concrete Dust would take a while to settle after the work.

This leads into several questions:

Just how long will it take?
Are the any ways to speed it up? (Walking round repeatedly with a bunch of big mister bottles to wet the air and pull the dust down?)
Does concrete dust in the air affect the plastering? If so, how long should I leave between the two sets of work?
The concrete dust will surely affect the repainting we'll be doing after the making good. How long should I leave between the concrete work being finished and the painting starting?

Concrete dust becomes air-bourn when it is pulverized (due to tool use: drilling, sawing, hammering, etc.). The fine silt concrete dust is thrown into the surrounding air by electric tool motor fans or other air currents. The particulate is so small and light-weight any slight breeze will distribute it until it finally sinks and lands on a surface.   Where, when, and how long will depend on too many extenuating circumstances to even guess at. The best way to deal with any dust becoming air-born is to stop it before it happens. I've found a shop-vac held just above the concrete surface that is being worked on does a smashing right good job at eliminating dust.


Hot and cold water stopped flowing in shower at same time I heard a couple of kind of thuds sounds and then a few seconds later, all water flow stopped.  This lasted for several seconds (maybe a minute) and the all flow came back.  Water temp unchanged from what it was before flow stopped

If you are on a municipal/utility water supply I'd guess that a valve in the system was turned off, and then it (or another valve, if they were bypassing a section of pipe) was turned on.

If the problem recurs on a frequent basis, that may not be it. For a one-time or infrequent event, that's my best guess with this little detail to go on.


Is it possible to control my light and ceiling fan using both wall switches and a remote? I have two wall switches. One controls my ceiling fan and one controls my light. I would like to add a remote into the mix. Ultimately I would like to control my light and fan using both the wall switches and the remote. I want to keep the wall switches hard wired (I.e., not smart switches or wireless). Is this possible?

Lutron has an answer to your question

As it turns out, Lutron, at the time of this writing, has just introduced a fan control into their line of Caseta wallbox/remote capable controls.  I would use two Caseta controls side by side; namely, a PD-FSQN and a PD-5NE.  Note that they both require a neutral wire at the switch box to work (which may or may not be an issue with your wiring, we'd need photos of the inside of the switch box to know for sure), and rely on wall-mounting hand-held remotes (Caseta controls use Lutron Pico remotes) for multi-way control, if that is acceptable for your application.


Draining irrigation system for the winter What's the best way to drain an outdoor irrigation system, which includes sprinklers and drip irrigation?

I've drained them as well as I could by opening a faucet in the basement (a few feet below the level of the sprinklers) that was put there for that purpose. A gallon or two dripped out, but it seems like there might still be some water standing in the system. I've heard of the concept of flushing the system out with air pressure. Is this necessary or just silly? I'm in the Northeast US where it's guaranteed to freeze for days at a time.

It's definitely a good idea to blow the water out using a compressor. Since naturally there will be sections of the system where water will sit, and the pipes are not very deep (typically 1 or 2'), they will likely freeze, and if that happens the pipes will crack, and you'll have a non-working system (and lots of digging to do) in the spring.

Check this question for advice on how to connect a compressor to the sprinkler system. It's best to blow out each zone one by one, so that you don't end up with water stuck in one line still while all the air escapes out another already-empty zone. Start with the zone with the highest elevation, if possible, and go down from there. You may need to cycle back through one more time.

Once you have the fittings ready to connect your compressor to the system, it's a pretty quick job, should only takes a few minutes really. Once there is air coming out of the zone, you're good and can move on to the next.

50 PSI is about the max you'd need on the sprinkler system side. Be careful going higher - 100 PSI is probably higher than the pipes/fittings used for sprinklers (or the sprinklers themselves) can handle.


When sistering a joist or rafter, must the ends of the sister be supported? When sistering a floor joist, must the sister be full length to the original joist and must the ends of the sister be supported on a sill or beam for the sister to be truly effective?  Assume the sister is attached to the original joist with adhesive and proper sized fasteners at an appropriate schedule.  Is the same true for a rafter?
Is the answer different depending on the problem being corrected?

Fixing a cracked or rotted joist
Reducing deflection in the floor (e.g. for a tile installation or just less bounce)
Strengthening the structure in anticipation of a greater load in the future
Correcting sag

I see two schools of thought:

Use a full length sister and support the ends.  3-4 inches at either end must rest on something.  Otherwise it does nothing but add weight.
Sistering over the middle 2/3 of the span (or 3 feet on either side of a break) adds the strength needed and the ends of the original joist will have no problem taking the negligible additional weight of the sister.

Seems you can't go wrong with duplicating the original joist when it's possible but are there cases where one is more appropriate than the other?

When beams and joists are sized, they are checked for 1) bending, 2) horizontal shear, 3) vertical shear, 4) deflection. Knowing the cause of the failure will help in knowing how to repair.

Bending will occur near the middle of the span and show as a crack or split at the bottom edge. (When we say “bending” we really mean the stress in the extreme fiber in bending.) When the wood fiber bends so much that it tears that extreme fiber then it starts to fail. This has nothing to do with “end bearing”.

Horizontal shear has to do with wood fibers sliding past each other due to deflection. An example of this is when you stack some 2x4’s on each other over a span and then stand on it.  The 2x4’s will slide past each other at the ends of the span, but not so much in the middle. Again, this has nothing to do with end bearing...just the fibers in the middle of the joists at the ends.

Vertical shear has to do with crushing the fibers at the bearing point. Obviously if the joist is being crushed then the repair will need to be at its bearing.

Deflection is caused by overloading the joist to the point it bends (but does not fail) so that it’s springy or so it flex’s and cracks tile, etc. This repair is primarily in the middle one-third of the span and has nothing to do with bearing.

So, when you repair a problem, it doesn’t matter how FAR you go past the repair on each side...it matters HOW the load is transferred around the damaged area. (Generally it’s customary to go past the repair area by 3’-4’ or so. The reason for this is so nailing can be staggered across the boards without splitting the wood.) However, it really depends on the actual load on the joist. A small roof load could be repaired with a 24” lap, but a heavy floor load could require a 60” lap.
However, seldom does the repair need to extend to the bearing point, unless there’s dryrot, crushing from a post, etc.


Is my water heater installed properly? Why do all 3 pipes..the hot, the cold, and the over flow valve run hot water. I can tell by the touch. the overflow which I'm used to having a free flowing tube attached to a pan is connected to a pipe going through the next apartments water heater. and when he. uses water mine drains/fills up. I guess he did this to save himself money but its costing me a fortune
Also there is a knob in the lower part of the wall with just a handle...maybe should be the cold pipe wall entrance? Or is this sounding normal more like just a slipped / broken pipe that is supposed to bring the cold water down to lower chamber?

All three pipes are hot near the water heater because they are warmed by the heat from the water heater, through conduction and convection. This does not indicate an incorrect water heater install.


Loads for sub panels from 150A split-bus main panel This box has a capacity of 150A. The breakers in the upper section are as follows:

Left side upper: RANGE 60A, AIR CONDITIONER 40A, MAIN 60A

Right side upper: MICROWAVE 20A, FRIDGE 15A, KITCHEN LIGHTS 15A, DRYER 40A ["dryer" circuit is actually unused since we got a gas dryer]

The bottom section of the panel is controlled by the 60A "MAIN" breaker, and contains all the general use circuits in the house (all 15A, I think).

I would like remove all the breakers on the upper right side, and replace them with two 100A breakers controlling two subpanels. So, there will be only 5 double breakers in the upper portion--the three currently on the left and the two new 100A breakers on the right.

One of the subpanels will hold the 3 smaller circuits currently on the top right of the main panel (Micro 20A, Fridge 15A, kit lights 15A) plus a dedicated 20A circuit for an electric fireplace insert and 3 or 4 additional 15A circuits for general lighting and plugs for a basement remodel.

The other subpanel will go in the garage and contain a 30A circuit (garage workshop heater that will have intermittent use only in the winter), a 40A circuit (electric vehicle charger--intermittent use, mostly during the wee hours), and a 20A general use circuit. I don't envision the 30A and the 40A ever being used at the same time.

So, based on that background, a few questions:

Given the load on the left side of the upper main panel (two 60A and one 40A), will the two proposed 100A subpanels overload the 150A main box? (Note that one of the 60A is for the range, which has intermittent use, and the 40A is for the AC, which will never be used at the same time as the 30A heater in the garage or the 20A electric fireplace insert.)
If the proposed 100A subpanels will overload the main box, can I use two 60A subpanel breakers instead, or will they overload the main box?
If I end up using a 60A subpanel for the garage, will the use proposed above (30A, 40A and 20A--with the 30A and 40A not used simultaneously) overload a 60A subpanel?

I appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks,

AEP

That is an old "rule of six" panel, which while grandfathered, is illegal under its grandfathering becuse it has 7 main breakers.  Going to five is a good plan.

It is a classic "CH" panel which is a very good industrial grade panel, except that the 3/4" breaker width make non-ordinary breakers very expensive (a trait it shares with Square D QO).  That makes it perfect for what you plan.

On your subpanel which would be near this panel, I would get a panel with a main breaker, with an eye toward (at some point in the future) cutting it over to be the main panel.  In a subpanel, the "main breaker" is nothing more than an on/off switch, it is OK for it to be larger than the feeding breaker.

I would also get a rather large panel, at the very least 42 space and even 60 or 84 if practicable: because panel spaces are dirt cheap and often even come with free breakers, whereas running out of space is painfully expensive.

I would aim for an industrial grade panel of good repute (one available in 3-phase variants, not Homeline, BR, or second tier brands) and avoid the expensive 3/4" breakers (not CH or QO).

Over time, as you find it convenient, i'd migrate all your 1-pole and smaller 2-pole circuits over to the new panel.

For your garage panel anything would do, but I'd go for the same type as your indoor panel, so you can use some of those bonus breakers. Again it's false economy to scrimp on spaces, I'd go 20-30 at least.

Also, since garage spaces need to be on GFCI, consider getting a subpanel which has a "main breaker" which is GFCI, that way all the breakers in that panel would be protected (at the cost of potential nuisance trips, a big deal if you keep a freezer in the garage).

Ed Beal raises some very good concerns about overall capacity.  One problem with these "rule of six" panels is there is literally no main breaker to stop you from drawing more than 150A.  So it pays to be conservative.

It's a difficult situation because you have two big loads that operate sporadically - the EV charger and the range.  And the A/C as a wildcard.

One thing I might suggest, is feed the garage subpanel from the new primary subpanel.  And then move everything but the range over to the new subpanel.  At that point the only things still in the CH panel would be a 60A range breaker and a 100A subpanel breaker.  Even at max, those two could not overload the 150A service (by enough to matter).  This would force your entire house (from A/C to EV charger) to share 100A, but would remove the possibility of an overload.  This would also save you the $85 you'll spend on a second 100A CH breaker.


How to place a bathroom vent fan in a vaulted/cathedral ceiling? I'm planning a renovation where the ceiling over the shower is vaulted to the rafters (see elevation below). Where is the optimal or recommended place to put a vent fan in this scenario? The rafters will be filled with closed cell foam.

The area on the top left side of the wall is attic space (where the current fan -pre-renovation- is already ducted). Is it reasonable to mount the fan in that, i.e. on its side? If I do, it seems like there will always be some small amount of space up to the peak that will be above the fan's intake - problem?

Is the best case just to build out a chase in the peak to flatten it out just enough to mount the fan unit in the expected horizontal configuration?

It's perfectly fine to have a fan mounted in a vertical wall. Just attach it to the current ductwork (as long as it is vented to the outside).


2nd Opinion on AC repair I moved into a newly built house 4 years ago.
I had complained to the builder about the AC not being that cold - it's cool but not as cold as every other AC that I've had. It cools of the house but takes a while.
A few days later, guy calls and says he checked my AC and it's find and that I can't expect to get cold air. I had said it takes forever to cool the house and he says it's a energy-efficient model that I need to keep on all the time.
So now a few years later, I call for a checkup/cleaning. The guy (not the same AFAIK) says it's not that cold and the freon is low. He said he would check it out and spent about 5 minutes by the AC and came back and said my coil is leaking. Got a call the next day that parts were covered but it $2500 for labor and freon.
This sounds a little fishy to me. If there's a leak, wouldn't ALL the freon leak out and I wouldn't have any freon left to cool the house? It sounds to me like the freon has always been low and the leak is an excuse as to why it's not their fault but I couldn't just paranoid.

I can purchase a new 25 lb cylinder of R410A online 160$
Brand new 5 ton outside unit 1700.00  includes shipping.
how many ton is the system? Goodman is a low cost system but if properly installed it should last 10+ years,
If there is a leak it was small the system is still cooling right.
you wanted a second opinion if the unit is smaller the cost is less. The outside unit includes the compressor, controls, coil, fan etc.
A coil would be much less expensive.
I smell a scam just saying.


Where do I put the hot wire on a double pole 20 amp breaker? Where do I put the hot wire on a double pole 20 amp breaker I have a 12/2 wire I have a black and white wire I need to know does the black go on top or bottom because there is 2 screws on the braker thanks

What are you trying to accomplish?

A double pole breaker is used to supply either a 120/240V circuit, a straight 240V circuit, or a 120V multi-wire branch circuit.

If you're wiring a 240V circuit, the black wire goes to one terminal and the white goes to the other. If you're trying to wire a 120/240V circuit, or a multi-wire branch circuit,  you'll need another wire. If you're trying to wire a 120V circuit, you need a single pole breaker not a double pole.

Both terminals on a double pole breaker are hot.


How can I tell where water is leaking from? I live in Wyoming and for the past few days we had below zero temperatures and tons of snow. Many people reported pipes breaking but we seemed to be fine. Today it also warmed up a bunch to around the 40's fahrenheit.
Yesterday we also replaced a filter in our furnace and the house is a lot more toasty.
In the middle of the night last night all of our smoke alarms went off. It took us about 25 minutes to realize one of them, located in the basement, was making a weird sound so we pulled it out.
When we did, a bit of water poured out from behind it--about 1/3 a cup.

I looked online and another individual reported a similar problem. They believe it was just water condensation.

I left a bowl under the leak and it drips very slowly but consistently.

Overnight and until now it's only about 1/4 of a cup or so of water that has formed in the bowl.

Other sources online have stated it could be a leak from outside.

So I wonder...
Is it water leaking in because of all the melting snow? (it's extremely wet everywhere outside)
Is it a cracked pipe from the cold temperatures?
Is it water condensation from the pipes warming up?

Any help would be much appreciated!

It sounds more like condensation. Warm air is escaping into the attic, where it meets cold air, condenses and forms liquid.

While it could be a leak in your roof, the fact that you're only noticing it at your smoke detector usually points to condensation, otherwise you'd expect to see other signs of water damage (stains on ceiling, spongy feeling drywall, etc.)

You really need to get into your attic to confirm. If it's wet all over, good chance you have a leak, but if there is insulation missing around where your smoke detector is (wires, etc.), then you want to ensure you properly seal the hole and ensure the area is adequately insulated.


Can I use Mason Sand under Pavers? I put an inch layer of mason sand down over a compacted base of process, and am about to lay large concrete pavers (18"x18", 12"x18", and 9" square) down.

Now I'm reading that I should have used concrete sand.

Will mason sand work ok?  I'm noticing that when dry it compresses and spreads very easily when I lay the large pavers down.

Thanks

Coarser sand is better.

Concrete sand would work much better than mason sand.

When I used to do pavers we would use crusher dust.

That being said, it's a patio and not a driveway or a road, so I don't think I would be overly concerned if I had already put down mason's sand.


Are all of these smoke detectors required? My house has eight smoke detectors; one in the basement, one in an upstairs bonus room, and six on the main floor.  The main floor is "T" shaped; the bedroom area forms the top of the "T", and the rest of the rooms are in the "stem" of the "T", connected by a hallway.  All of the smoke detectors are in the bedroom area.  Here's a rough layout (the dots are the smoke detectors):

As shown in the diagram, the main floor has no smoke detectors except the ones in the bedroom area (which are audible on the rest of the floor).  Each bedroom or potential bedroom has one just inside the doorway, and there is another in the hallway just outside each doorway.  I'm thinking of making the following changes:

Master BR: There is no door between the MBR and the adjoining hallway.  The MBR has an 11 ft ceiling, so I need to drag a huge ladder from the garage at the other end of the house, and navigate it through doorways and hallways past breakable stuff to access this unit.  Since there is one right outside this room with no intervening barriers, which also serves the MBth, I would remove the one inside the MBR.
Bedroom: I would leave the one inside the bedroom and remove the one in the hallway immediately outside it, which doesn't seem to serve any purpose.
Office: With smoke detectors located in areas on either side of this room and in the hallway immediately outside, the one in the room seems redundant.  Also, the one in the hallway is unobstructed to the rest of the main floor, so it serves that area.  If I removed the hallway unit and left the office unit, all of the alarms could potentially be behind closed doors and less audible in the rest of the house (which is an open floor plan).

So I would remove the one inside the office and cover the electrical box with a plate.  If a future owner wants to turn it into a bedroom and a smoke alarm is required inside the room, it would be trivial to put one back.

Question: Do these changes sound reasonable, or are all of the existing smoke detectors required by code (in Virginia)?

Impetus for change: At 3AM this morning, we were awakened to all eight alarms going off (they are interconnected, so they all sound if any one is triggered).  It turned out that they are all 12 years old and one had an age failure (smoke detectors are supposed to be replaced after 10 years but the manufacture dates were hidden on the backs of the units).

So there will be the expense of replacement and then an ongoing requirement to periodically drag in a ladder, test each one, and replace batteries.  There are also three extra sources of potential false alarms, and it is a long, nerve-wracking task to identify the source when all are blaring -- every unit needs to be removed from its wiring harness.  I don't have an issue if each one serves a purpose, but it seems like the builder went nuts with smoke detectors and installed three more than apparently are needed.

I'm in Va as well. You need one in every bedroom, then one in every room leading from the bedroom to the room with egress. Each county official interprets that latter part a little different.

In my county, he'd want one in each bedroom, then one in or near the hall.


Does a 240 volt single phase air compressor need a starter Compressor model aside its a 2 stage with a check valve at the tank so start up amps are motor only. I ask because it is equipped with a DPDT pressure switch that is caring both legs of the 240. Then power goes to a starter from the PS for some reason. The coil is wired to one leg and the holding contact is wired, and the more I think about it the more redundant it seems.
IMO there's no need for the starter,- other than the over load- if you aren't using the coil to hold the contacts. Also there is no ON/OFF switch. I would like to replace the PS contacts or the hole switch, its due, and that is what started this inquiry.  Scratching head.
Thanks.

The starter is a very good idea.  It precludes an accidental restart in the event the power is interrupted and then reestablished up stream. With this kind of a load you want redundancy; for safety sake.  That overload is very important on this type of high torque load.  It helps to protect your motor; the most expensive replacement part.


leveling concrete floor I have to level a concrete floor that is more than 2 inches out of level. Should I be using self leveler, or concrete? Is 2" too much for self leveler?

If it is only 2" you should not be using concrete because it's not thick enough. Concrete does not bond to concrete so it will just crack over time.


How to remove this bathroom faucet I am trying to replace a bathroom faucet on a pedestal sink, but can't figure out how to remove the faucet handles.  I'm pretty sure the handles must come off from the top, b/c the retainer rings below can't be removed since the fitting underneath is too large.  There is no set screw on the handles and I've tried suggestions seen in other threads and nothing seems to work.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get these out?  I really don't want to have to take the sink out.  But if I can't figure it out, I'll probably pull it out and use a cut-off wheel.

The reason for replacing is that the cold faucet is completely frozen up.  We have very hard water.  I'm thinking this could make the handles harder to remove as well.  Anyway, here are some pics.  If anyone knows anything that might help, please let me know.

Thanks!

You may be able to remove the handle and expose a set screw that when loosened would allow the top of the mechanism to be removed.


Is any depth change allowed on electrical panel wall? I know the NEC requires clear space in front of a breaker panel.

What depth of wall change would violate this? My basement, where the panel is, has a 6" jut where the block wall becomes timber. So from where your toes are against the wall, the panel is 6" deeper, as the wall depth changes.

From the side (black line is the floor), it's like this:

The flush panel is in the framing above. There is also framing below.
All walls are finished properly but because of the construction the panel door is six inches deeper from the edge of the floor.

I am fine with the 30" horizontal clearance.

How should I interpret the clear space requirement in NEC in this situation? Am I required to extend the top half of the wall out to keep it entirely flat and bring the panel out to that the new depth?

The NEC's clearance requirements are for the safety of people working on equipment once it is installed.

With that being said the NEC width requirement is a minimum of 30", and the door swing if there is one minimum is 90 degrees. However your panel does not have to sit in the center of the 30" it can be moved from side to side.

Reading you question I can't determine whether you panel is against the block wall and the wall depth change is 6" and runs the other direction at that same depth at least 30" or there is just a recess that the panel fits in and it is recessed in an area less than 30". So with the first situation the panel is fine and with the latter, it needs to be brought out to meet clearance.

Also I don't know if you are speaking about a horizontal recess and the panel is mounted below the block wall. Most AHJ will allow 8" before they consider overhead being an interference.

Hope this helps


Door jamb wider than wall I wanted to run electric into my mudroom for a ceiling light and a exterior light. Unfortunately the walls were all painted wood paneling so while doing that I figured I would switch to drywall because I had to rip half the stuff down anyway. Plus it looked like garbage. Unfortunately after handing the drywall I noticed the door jamb and window case extends a extra 1/4 out from the wall. Novice mistake of course seeing as this was my first time flying solo.

Is there a way in which I can make up this difference when I go to hang moulding or am I going to have to pull down these walls and put up strapping underneath to make up the difference and rehang the drywall?

Consider adding an additional piece of molding outside of the casing to hide the gap.

The casing (door and window frame moldings) should be mounted parallel to the drywall (not canted in). They can be shimmed on the outside edge using stock cedar shims every 12" to 15". Nail through the shims and then trim the shims flush to the outside edge of the casing.

Then prepare another piece of molding, rectangular in cross section, measuring 3/4 x (thickness of casing + 1/2"). You may be able to find a stock piece, or you could rip it from 1 x material (which is actually only 3/4" thick). The 3/4 edge will face the room and the other dimension will face the shimmed out edge of the casing. The extra half inch is to cover the gap at the wall and to sit forward from the edge of the casing (edges that do not line up flush are said to have a relief, and usually look better). Usually it also looks better to sand the two sharp edges off the face of the new molding, but only on the room side, not the wall side.

This is an example of this kind of casing + extra molding.

While this casing is flat, the same technique works with more elaborate casings.


Hardie Board Subfloor—Thinset or No? I'm remodeling the bathroom in my house that was built in the 1930s. I stripped out the old flooring down to the 1x8 wood planks (about 1/4" between each).

I have 1/4" Hardie Board to put down in preparation for tile and I'm a little confused on how I should do this.

Some resources I've found have said to lay down mortar first, then screw the board into the floor. Other resources have said that you can just screw it into the floor in appropriate locations. Others yet have recommended laying down plywood first, then Hardie Board, then tile. I'm really not sure what to do here.

The wood floor outside of the bathroom is only about 3/4" higher than the plank subfloor in the bathroom. I'm concerned about ending up with a bathroom floor that's considerably higher than my wood floors.

Thanks for your help.

The installation manual for HardieBacker suggests to embed it in thin-set and it should be installed over plywood.

Thus I would suggest removing the current wood planks flooring, install a 3/4" outdoor grade plywood, thinset and then your HardieBacker (screwed down).

All of this is to prevent as much movement in your substrate and avoid cracks in your tiles and in your grout.

Here is the link to the installation guide: http://www.jameshardie.com/d2w/installation/hardiebacker-us-en.pdf


How can I cut detailed wooden monograms out of 1/4 inch plywood? What is the best way to cut a 20 inch vine (font) monogram with a circle around it, out of 1/4 inch Baltic birch plywood? I have seen them everywhere but I'm finding it extremely difficult to cut out with my jig saw. Are there better tools and/or techniques available that would make it easier?

A long neck scroll saw is the animal of choice.  It uses short strokes and you match the blade type to the material.

Heres a short discussion of the types of scroll saw blades


How to protect furniture in a leaky garage? I have some furniture (nothing very valuable, but some tables and bookcases) that I am temporarily going to have to store in a garage that is a bit leaky.

It's not very leaky, and there is some chance it won't leak at all during the 6 months I need to store the furniture there. On occasion water will come through the roof at random spots, but at most it would rise to maybe 1mm.

What sort of wrapping is most appropriate to give the furniture a fair chance of protection? If the furniture was destroyed by rain it would not be a big loss, but I'm keen to find some cheap way of protecting it if possible.

Just put the furniture up on blocks.  Simple blocks of cheap wood.  "1 inch" (meaning 3/4") strips are fine.

You don't need to avoid water ever contacting the furniture, but you do need anything that does to dry out quickly.  For that reason, wrapping in any form of plastic is likely harmful.

Now drape some plastic loosely over the top, or a cheap tarp, making sure there's plenty of airflow.  Done.


What is the max number of outlets on a GFCI circuit? I found a couple of related questions about one GFCI for several outlets

How do I properly wire GFCI outlets in parallel?
How can I find the first receptacle in a circuit?

But I am not finding anything about how many outlets I can have on the load side of the GFCI.

What is the max number of outlets on a GFCI circuit?

There's no limit.  A standard GFCI will protect up to 20 amps, drawn from any combination of receptacles, either the built-in one or any number of additional ones connected to its load terminals.  If you're trying to add GFCI protection to an existing circuit, you needn't worry about how many outlets are downstream on the 'load' side, assuming things are correctly wired presently.

Now, if you're installing new circuits, from a practical standpoint, you might want to keep the number of outlets per circuit reasonably low, and instead run separate circuits (with their own GFCIs) for additional outlets, not because the GFCI couldn't handle more, but because you might want to use more than 15-20A at a time in a given location.


Countersink and Screw Size I have been googling this for a few hours now and I really can't find a direct answer. This is a stupid question to validate my logic, however I like firm answers instead of assuming.

I need a countersink bit to install my cabinets. The size of the counter sink is:

DEWALT DW2569 Style#10 Countersink with 3/16-Inch Drill Bit

Knowing it is a size 10 and 3/16in drill, should I buy the same size screw 10#? I assume this to be correct.

Or, is it best to use a size #8 countersink with a size #10 screw?

This is the desired result:

http://www.rockler.com/how-to/difference-countersink-counterbore-screw-holes-usage/

Part 2 - Installing Wall Cabinets, start at 2:56

A standard #10 screw has an outer thread diameter of 3/16". The #10 countersink you are referring to is a combined tool designed for applications where the screw is to pass completely through the material without digging the threads into the wood and have the head sit flush. If you wish to use a screw that is actually going to grip the material, such as a wood screw or self-tapping screw, do not buy the item. Instead you will need an appropriately sized #10 pilot drill (3/32" for soft wood, 7/64" for hardwood) and a separate countersink bit designed for your chosen screw size.

So, the answer depends on the application. If you intend for the screw to pass completely through the first work piece with nothing but the head securing it (no threads biting into the wood) then the combined #10 drill/countersink is great. If you intend for the screw to bite the material, you need a separate pilot drill and countersink bit.


1 outlet / 2 switches: want to replace old outlet with GFCI (Similar to How do I install a GFCI receptacle with two hot wires and common neutral? but hopefully different enough to warrant my question.)

In our bathroom we have 1 outlet and two switches in the same box.  Here is a diagram (ports that are hot have red squares):

I would like to replace the current outlet with GFCI.  Can this be done properly and safely given the current wiring scheme?

Both the black wires currently on the receptacle, need to be connected together with a pigtail. The pigtail will then connect to the brass colored LINE terminal on the new GFCI.

The white wire from the old receptacle, will attach to the silver colored LINE terminal of the new GFCI.

The grounding conductors should also be pigtailed, and a pigtail terminated at each devices grounding terminal.

The wiring seems a bit strange in that box, but I'll have to think about it a bit more before I decide if it's dangerous.

In the meantime, you should use a black marker or tape, to mark both ends of the white wire that's attached to the switch.


Where should arc fault breaker not be used? I'm trying to stay on top of the electricians rewiring our house and correctly interpret the NEC 2017 for arc fault breakers. There is a permit and an inspection when they done, but I want to understand it myself and stay on top of it.

Should there be an arc fault breaker on every breaker, or are there exceptions where it's best not to? (and not required by code)

Reading the code bathrooms aren't required? Why not?

What about furnace, air conditioner and stove?

Finally, outlets in a basement woodworking room?

I want everything done to code and as safe as possible.

Thanks!

Like GFCI's, AFCI's coverage is being added to Dwelling Units each NEC revision.Under 2017 NEC Article 210.12 (A) "Dwelling Units" almost all 120V 15 and 20 amp branch circuits supplying outlets (see NEC definition for outlets) must be AFCI protected.

The only circuits not needing protection in a dwelling at this time are Bathrooms, Garages, Crawl Spaces, Attics and Outdoor.

Definition:
 Outlet: A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment. Although receptacles are outlets not all outlets are receptacles. Example light fixture outlet.

Note: AFCI Protection must be installed within 50' of the devices it's protecting.

Hope this helps.


Tankless water heater plumbing: neutralized condensate and pressure relief valve Hello recently my old 50gal gas water heater developed a crack and started leaking. I replaced it with a tank-less gas heater. Everything is good, I installed the proper intake an exhaust with 3in schedule 40 PVC pipes as recommended, I plumbed 3/4in copper pipes for cold and hot water, a 3/4in gas line. I now need to connect the pressure release valve. I have a 3/4in copper pipe plumbed into the house drain close by, so it does not look to be a big deal, however, this unit also has a condensate drain. Right now I have a temporary 1/2in PVC discharge into a bowl, but I plan to install a condensate neutralizer (it's arriving tomorrow). However where am I going to drain the neutralized water? Can I plumb it with the relief valve? Eventually it will have to go in the drain anyway.
The unit is installed in the center of the house upstairs in an utility room.

Yes down the drain is good, the condensate is slightly acidic, usually in the 3-5 pH range. The neutralizer is supposed to, well,  neutralize it back up to 7 pH but they do wear out or clog. Make sure your condensate doesn't come into contact with metals. It will eat them. Do yourself a favor and always pipe in your neutralizer like this in case it blocks up it can bypass. I always use Clear gorilla tube to allow for visual inspection.https://www.diversitech.com/en-US/item/id/11672

Make sure you pipe your pressure relief valve down to within 6" of the floor and not into the drain  maintaining 3/4 inch diameter all the way. In the rare event that it pops you are supposed to see the water on the floor and thus be alerted to the issue. If it's down the drain you will never know you have an issue. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjZsrDb78zgAhUOtrMKHQFmBB8YABAIGgJxbg&sig=AOD64_3f3Fc_0mYzjmXXWbHAYQvAGUPvyw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiJ5abb78zgAhWCZd8KHSvbAk0Qwg96BAgLEBA&adurl= this one is 50 bucks


Outside garden hose bib plumbing - 1/2" or 3/4"'pex I recently renovated and I now want to setup an outside garden hose. I can either hook it up to the 1/2" PEX or the 3/4" PEX. I have 3/4" PEX coming from main water entry to my water heater, then from there the whole house is on 1/2". (Side story, my water pressure / flow is not that great throughout.
Should I hook up my outside garden hose to the 1/2" PEX (that's basically feeding my kitchen) or setup a new new 3/4" PEX from my water heater (not talking about getting hot water out, just the layout)?
I guess this ties in the conversation, I currently bought a 3/4" hose, but if a 1/2" hose is recommended, I can do that also.
I don't have a big yard (25' * 25'), water source is for washing car and light gardening.
Open to advice!
PS: Saw this related post : routing hoses in the duff, 5/8" garden hose, or 3/4" garden hose, or 3/4" polyethylene? but still not sure.
PPS: Also open to advice on the 1/2" PEX, should I have had this done in 3/4" PEX?

I think you should take off for the outside faucet from the 3/4" PEX. This will have a lesser effect on the water pressure inside the house than taking off on the 1/2" line that goes to the kitchen. You can always throttle back at the outside faucet if you need to.
EDIT
You could run a 1/2" line to the outside faucet, split off from the 3/4" PEX.


Are loose teeth in a saw blade a safety concern? When I watch videos on using a table saw safely, it almost always is about kickback.
I realize, that kickback is the most dangerous hazard, but are loose teeth, that could become projectiles, when disconnecting from the blade really no issue ? For example in case of an manufacturing defect.

Or am i missing something?

Loose teeth on a modern table saw blade are indeed a thing to be concerned about. It would be anybody's guess as to where the loose tooth would fly if it came off the blade. As many readers here may know the most popular blades in use today are the type with carbide tips bonded to the tooth cutouts on a blade core.

It is possible that there is a history of table saw safety over many years that has contributed to the current body of knowledge, articles and videos. Historically the saw blades in use twenty or thirty years ago were much more likely to be steel blades with teeth that were sharpened and set with alternate facing cutting edges that were bent slightly in each direction from the plane of the blade body. It is much less likely that a tooth on a blade would come flying off when the teeth are all cut and formed from the core material of the blade. So in the past it was less likely that saw blade destruction would be stressed in any particular way in safety information.

It is also true that warnings about trying to use blades that are dull and worn would have been more prevalent. The modern carbide tipped saw blades in common use today stay sharp much longer. And even if they do become slightly dull the integral design of the blades upon which the carbide tips are mounted prevents a lot of the binding of the saw blade in the kerf that is experienced with an all steel saw blade when the teeth have lost most of their set.


Does shear strength increase with the number of fasteners? Let's say I have screws with 1,000 lbs shear strength.   If I add more screws, does the total shear strength of the joint increase?  If I use 3 screws, then put a 2,000 lbs shear load on the joint, will all the fasteners fail?

I guess I should have been more clear, as most answers seem to be overly focused on the materials being fastened.  The point of this question was to focus on the shear strength of the screws themselves. You can assume the materials being fastened are stronger than the screws, the holes are perfectly spaced, and are properly sized for the fasteners. For purposes of this question, the fastened materials will never fail before the screws.

If you have a single screw with that level of shear strength, it will also have minimum distance specifications for the material in which it is used. As an example, a fastener of 12 mm diameter should be placed no closer than 6 mm from the edge of the material.

Regarding spacing relative to one another, the material used is a factor as well as many other characteristics such as fastener diameter and material.

I found an interesting brief in PDF form here:

fastener spacing which opens directly into the PDF or a download window. It references spacing specific to wood trusses and fasteners and also takes into consideration wood grain.

There's an astonishing calculator located fastener calculator which uses a formula far beyond my comprehension:

In the PDF link, it is suggested for the reader to enlist the services of an engineer. If you are using loads of one to two thousand pounds, that might be a good idea.

On the other hand, if you are building something without an inherent catastrophe in case of failure, build it and learn. I wouldn't construct a bridge across which I would drive the family vehicle, but I might consider a bridge across a gully for a golf cart or similar transport.

Generally, if you have the spacing for three bolts, it will be stronger than one, if there is no slop or play or similar poor construction. A single bolt in a tight hole with two others in loose or misaligned holes will not be optimum and could fail prematurely.


Is it OK to drill/notch an end joist (not rim/band joist) as long as it's continuously supported by a foundation wall? I'm in the process of trying to run some CAT6 and speaker wire at various places in my house.  One of the things I'd like to do is run speaker wire in the living room to a wall plate behind my sofa, for the surround sound speakers.  This is an exterior wall that runs parallel to the joists in the crawlspace below.  Thus, it rests directly on an end joist.  Running wire through it will require drilling up at an angle through the joist, creating a diagonal hole or what may wind up being a notch.

I've found previous discussions of this issue, such as this one on this very forum,, or this one on another forum, where people say it's OK to do this through a rim joist (aka band joist.)  However, I'm given to understand that the term "rim" or "band" joist refers specifically to the joist at the end that is perpendicular to the other joists and which they butt into, whereas the joists at the end that are parallel to the other joists are called "end" joists.  Now, the logic by which this is said to be OK is that the rim joist is continuously supported by the foundation wall, so the segment you'd be drilling into, between studs, is not really bearing any weight or tension.  But in my case, the end joist I want to drill through is also continuously supported by the foundation wall, so I don't see why the same logic wouldn't apply.

Furthermore, the builder has already done this, having drilled a diagonal hole here and there at points in this joist to run romex for power outlets along the exterior wall.  I would just like to drill a somewhat larger hole (1 1/8") to accommodate ENT conduit.  Can anyone comment on whether this would be OK?

It would be ok to notch or drill the end of the joist on a supporting member. Keep it in the middle or top section, not the bottom where it is bearing.

Rim joists DO bear load in many cases, however, drilling holes will not significantly downgrade the ability to carry that load and therefore it's ok. HOWEVER, rim joists on the second level or higher can be part of the lateral system and at most remove 1/3 of the depth and in the middle of the rim joist


Replaced breaker, and still no power to outlets, but at circuit test 110 I hope you can answer my question.

I recently replaced the circuit breaker because it would not reset the power to the outlets thinking it was the problem.  I tested with a volt meter and it reads 110 V at the circuit breaker.  I got no power to the outlets (all were checked with a volt meter) or the wiring on the back.  I went out of town for 2 days and left the breaker in the off position for safety reasons.  I returned last night and turned the breaker back on so that I could trouble shot it some more, and the lights came on.  Also, we did a load of laundry as the washer machine is also on the same circuit.  Don't ask me why, it is a 100 year home with an updated (15 years ago) panel and wiring.  My wife this morning put the hair dryer into the new outlet (used the screws and not the plug in the back) and it tripped the breaker again.  That was the only thing on the circuit.  And she used the hair dryer in out middle bathroom with no troubles.  The outlet that my wife used this morning that threw the breaker is the first in the daisy chain of outlets and switches.

I have checked all of the GFCI outlets and they are all good.

I am thinking it is a short in the wire between the first outlet and the breaker box.

Any other thoughts? I appreciate any help!

It sounds like you have several problems but probably not a short in the wiring, as a short would trip the breaker when it was turned on.

When the wiring was updated 15 years ago it was not done to Code. Code at that time required the bathroom to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit (possibly 2 bathrooms on 1 circuit) but nothing else on that branch circuit, the laundry should have also have its own 20amp circuit. This is the start of some of your problems.

The second part is the circuit is overloaded with lights and everything else on the circuit the breaker is doing its job of tripping when overloaded (not a short). The remaining outlets and or lights that are not working are probably because of an overload condition. This happens all the time on outlets and switches that are daisy chained using backstabs, it can also happen at a wire nut or a broken wire at a wire nut or screw.

The failure can almost always be found at the last working device or first non working device on that circuit. I would want to get 2 dedicated circuits installed for the bath and laundry after identifying the last working outlet or switch or first non working one and fixing that.


How can I build a shelf to support a 15 gallon aquarium? My next project is building an in the wall 3 shelf bookcase to accommodate my printer, my modem and router, and hopefully an aquarium. I want to use 3/4" birch veneer plywood with dados for the unit including the shelves. The aquarium will weigh 175-180lbs when loaded.  The shelves will be 27.5 " wide because the unit is going in an area that was built around a stove pipe and the studs are 27.5 " apart.  Will this shelf support the weight ?  If I added a stud inside each of the existing studs to bring the width down to 24.5", would this support the weight if the 27.5" span will not work?

Using the Sagulator, you're borderline for a noticeable sag... It will also depend on how deep your shelves are, and how wide the aquarium is (I assumed 16 inches deep shelves). Since you're using plywood you're going to be facing the shelves with something, right? I would just double up that shelf (two layers of plywood glued together) and you should be fine.

Also, you can run a strip of the plywood along the bottom back edge of the shelf which, combined with the front facing, should support all the weight you can throw at it.


where can I buy a new trim for my bath plughole? My bath plughole needs replacing. I don't need the whole unit for the overflow. The problem is that when I fill the bath, half the water has drained away within 15mins. I think the plug doesn't fit properly. My husband thinks there's a leak around the trim. Both could be true. It's an old bath so probably has the old standard fittings (not metric). What's the least we need to replace? I've bought new plugs but they don't fit properly either. I'm looking for plug + plughole, but will I need to get an old style fitting?

Before you replace it, you may just need to take the fitting off and reseal it.

Every fitting is different, most hold the screen on with a screw and then the fitting itself unscrews from a thread adapter on the drain pipe. Once its off scrape off any old sealant. Make a 'snake' (like you did with clay as a kid) out of plumbers putty and lay that as a ring around the drain fitting. Screw your drain fitting back in and wipe up the excess putty.

How old is old? 10 years? 15? 20? 50? 100?

Pics would help.


What are the advantages and disadvantages of elastomeric coatings versus shingles? I'm ready to reroof my house and want to consider an elastomeric coating rather than replacing the existing shingles.  I'd use a local contractor either way

If what you are asking is if you should coat old shingles with a elastomeric coat instead of tearing off the old and replace with new, I think the answer is no. Such rubberized compounds are normally used for short term repairs (2 to 5 years) on damaged shingles on a pitched roof, and as a seam sealer on rolled roofing for flatter pitches.
If your shingles are failing, coming loose or have cupped or distorted with age, coating them most likely would be a very short term fix. The underside of the shingles will continue to fail, making an expensive coating project a waste of money in my opinion.

If I have missed the point of the question, I'm sorry. If the situation is different, the answer may change a bit. But normally, i'd never use an eleastomer coat over old worn out shingles.


Wall plastering in Taiwan: Plaster sets VERY fast (10-15min). What can I do? I'm trying to replaster the walls in an old house in Taiwan. Due to both the extreme humidity here and the shorter drying/curing times, I would prefer to use setting-type plaster over drying-type.

I think I've found these products and their names in Chinese (石膏 and 批土) – it's tough to be sure with the language barrier and geographic differences in industry, but they're both made of gypsum, and one comes in big sacks of powder while the other comes in pre-mixed buckets (~US$10 for 50lb and 5gal, respectively). However, everyone I've talked to here suggests either using drying-type by itself, or mixing the two for heavier repairs. Nothing I've read on any American forum suggests this mixing method, and nobody in Taiwan advocates using the gypsum powder all by itself.

I tried their way – deep patches are still wet (hard but cold) the following day. I tried using just the powder, mixed with water – it goes from pancake batter to unworkable, crumbly mess in the span of 15 minutes. From everything I've read, working times on setting-type plaster should be 70-90 minutes.

What's going on here, and what can I do to get a longer working time but keep a strong, moisture-resistant plaster job? With my total lack of experience, waiting 36+ hours between patch jobs and coats is really slowing the project down.

The working time of setting-type plaster is a consequence of that plaster's ingredients. In the US, setting-type drywall compound (e.g. Sheetrock Easy Sand) can be had in a wide range of drying times from 5 to 210 minutes. If your mix is getting crumbly after 15 minutes, you might just have the wrong product.

Combining setting and pre-mixed compound is not something I've seen recommended. Final dry time, strength, shrinkage, etc. will be hard to predict. Perhaps you can work out something that does what you need this way, but I think you'd be better off finding a compound that gives you adequate working time when following manufacturer instructions. You can also find plaster retarder and accelerator that should let you adjust the setting time.

Alternatively, you can try to make do with what you've got by mixing setting-type compound and quickly filling the big cracks, and then top-coat with the pre-mixed or drying-type stuff. That will let you cut out a bunch of the waiting, but then fine-tune with a slower-drying plaster.


What are the factors in determining the cost of a septic system and what can I do to decrease it? One of the biggest topics around building or homesteading in the country is the potential cost of a septic. Fundamentally I understand why good septic design is important for health and safety. i've heard that septic systems can cost from $4000 to $30,000 depending on the design. I'm about to get a property perc tested, and I want to know what factors will inform if the system will be expensive or cheap. I'm assuming if the water table is to high, I would have to add fill, and if it perks to fast, I have to dig deeper. But why the huge range? Is there any way I can do prep work ( excavation, filling etc. ) prior to the install? I'm planning on build a rather small house ( 1000 square feet or so ) so I don't really need a huge sytem.

Costs range in price due to:

1) number of bedrooms: You're allowed to have 100 bathrooms plus the worlds largest living room, but if you have 3 bedrooms instead of 2, you'll pay more because the system is based on the number of occupants...and that's determined by the number of bedrooms.

2) Percolation test: "Good Soil" will decrease your cost because it will reduce size, depth, etc.  To insure the "best" test possible, I'd test in several locations...but remember you need a backup site too.

3) Competitive Bids: The best thing you can do to reduce your costs is get at least 3 bids...check references...make sure they're licensed...and don't pay upfront, pay when it's done AND APPROVED by the local agency.


Will an existing 10-3 w/ground electrical wire handle a 50 amp 220 volt welder? I am wondering if my current electric service wiring can handle a welder.  The welder documentation recommends a 50 amp breaker on a 220 v line.

Currently I have a 60 amp breaker on a 220 line going to a separate garage.  I presume this was installed by the electrician who wired the house 10 years ago but I am the third owner so this is not for certain.  The 10-3 w/ ground wiring (not in conduit) to the garage is approximately 60 feet long or less.  It doesn't seem right that this has a 60 amp breaker but I'm not familiar with 220 v lines.  On 110 v I believe this should be a 30 amp breaker max.

There are 2 unused 20 amp 110 v circuits in the garage.  I have two configurations that I can run after removing the unused circuits. One is to run another 40 feet to get to a double garage door and the other is to put a 220 outlet right by the current box which would be a bit restrictive.  I haven't found the nec code that specifies what size wire I need for a 220 v 50 amp draw.

Wiring from garage panel to welder
NEC 630.11(A) may be of interest.

National Electric Code 2008
ARTICLE 630 Electric Welders
II. Arc Welders
630.11 Ampacity of Supply Conductors.
(A) Individual Welders. The ampacity of the supply conductors shall be not less than the I1eff value on the rating plate.
Alternatively, if the I1eff is not given, the ampacity of the supply
conductors shall not be less than the current value determined by
multiplying the rated primary current in amperes given on the welder
rating plate by the factor shown in Table 630.11(A) based on the duty
cycle of the welder.

Also take a look at 630.12 Overcurrent Protection.
The Owners manual (PDF) seems to contain the answer.

Wiring from service panel to sub panel
If we look at 110.14(C) in 2008 NEC, it says:

National Electrical Code 2008
ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations
I. General
110.14 Electrical Connections.
(C) Temperature Limitations. The temperature rating associated with the ampacity of a conductor shall be selected and coordinated so
as not to exceed the lowest temperature rating of any connected
termination, conductor, or device. Conductors with temperature ratings
higher than specified for terminations shall be permitted to be used
for ampacity adjustment, correction, or both.

Which means we'll have to check the breakers temperature rating, and the subpanel terminals temperature rating. Then we'll have to look at table 310.16 (Table 310.15(B)(16) NEC 2011), so we can determine the wire size we should use.

In this example image you can see if we're using copper, we'll use 60°C. Once we look at the table, we'll see that for 50A @ 60°C we need 6 AWG copper wire. (50A @ 75°C = 8 AWG).
110.14(C)(1)(a) basically says that if the temperature is not listed, use 60°C for circuits less than 100A.  110.14(C)(1)(b) says if the temperature is not listed, use 75°C for circuits over 100A. However, in the real world 75°C is often used for both.


How can I tell if there is a trap in my floor drain? I’m a bartender at a restaurant that is in an old gas station building. The floor drain that the sinks behind the bar drain into frequently smells like rancid meat farts, which is quite embarrassing when there are customers in the bar, but my boss has made no effort to try and figure out what the problem is.
I’m no plumber but have surmised that this is an issue with the floor drain either not having a p trap or it being messed up in some way. The trap couldn’t be dry from what I understand because it’s used frequently. I am wondering if there’s a way that this could be fixed that wouldn’t involve jack hammering the cement slab up, if I can determine whether there is a trap or not, etc. Currently I’ve been told to just dump bleach down the drain, which... doesn’t help.
Edit:
There’s also an oatey sure vent air admittance valve, if that helps.
<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EX6bf.jpg" alt="enter image description
here" />

The presence of an air admittance valve (AAV) implies a trap (since otherwise there's not a lot of point for a vent), but is then also the most likely thing to have failed such that things stink.
It can be replaced, and probably should be.


How can I stop 2 outlets being controlled by a switch? I have two outlets where the the lower half is controlled by a wall switch and the upper half is always on. I’d like to remove the switch and have the upper and lower parts of the outlets always live.
This is the switch wiring has red, black, and ground wires:

One of the outlets has two white wires to the top and bottom screen, two red wires to the bottom screw, two black wires to the top screw, and a ground wire:

The other outlet has one white wire, one red white to the bottom screw, one black wire to the top screw, and a ground wire:

What changes should I make to have both outlets always live?

The easiest way to do this is to disconnect the red and black wire from the switch and wire nut them together. Use a blank cover to cover the switch box. This allows you to go back to switched outlets in the future if you want. Make sure there will still be a light controlled by a switch by the door.
You can get more involved and disconnect the red wire from the switch and outlets. Get some new outlets and hook them up to the black wire and the white wire, and ground. The old outlets have tabs broken on the side with the brass screws that allow the outlet to be switched. Rather that try to use jumpers to "replace" the tabs, new outlets are advised. Cap the red wire at all locations. A light controlled by a switch by the door is still requires.


Light switch is reversed when I turn the light switch to the ON position, the light goes off.  When I turn the switch to the Off position, the light goes on.  Never had this problem before. Why?  Nothing was changed.

There are two likely possibilities here, and one a little more unusual:
Regular Switch
If this is a regular, single switch controlling the light, then it will typically have embossed on it "ON" and "OFF" indicators. If it does, and the operation seems to be opposite of what those indicate then I don't know what is going on. But if has those and they are upside down - i.e., the switch is actually functioning correctly but the labels actually indicate that "ON" is down instead of up, then simply remove the switch and replace it right-side up and you're done.
If it doesn't have "ON" and "OFF" marked on it, but it only has two wires attached (except for ground, of course), then it is a regular switch and you can simply remove the switch and replace it right-side up and you're done.
3-Way Switch
If the switch does not have "ON" and "OFF" marked on it then it is typically a 3-way switch. This means there is another switch somewhere that also controls the light. It might be on the other side of the room next to another room you rarely use. Or it might simply be in a hard-to-reach location so that you just don't think of using that switch. If you can find the other switch, flip it once and now this switch will be reversed and work the way you expect it.
If it is a 3-way switch and you can't find the other end, you can simply remove the switch and replace it right-side up and you're done. Or you can swap the two travelers (two of the three wires that have the same color screws), but since you have to remove and replace the switch to do that, just leave the wires as-is and turn the switch around.
3-Way Switch With One Switched Hot
There is one more wacky but safe & legal possibility: You have a 3-way switch used in place of a regular switch with only one switched hot instead of two travelers. In this case, you won't find a 2nd switch and you will only see 2 wires (not counting ground) connected to the switch. This will happen if:

There was a 2nd 3-way switch and it was removed (e.g., in order to install a switch for something else in that location)
The installer ran out of regular switches and used a 3-way switch

But again, the easiest solution is still remove the switch and replace it right-side up and you're done.


What could cause the garage door overhead light to not stay on while the door is opening? We replaced one wall switch with a door bell button and now the overhead light flashes on when I hit the button, goes off and then the light comes back on when the door is fully open.  Before replacing the button, the light would come on and stay on during the door opening operation.  When the door is opened with a different second wall switch or with the remote door opener in the car, the light will come on and stay on.

The doorbell switch is not equivalent to the garage door switch it replaced, in some manner that upsets the opener.

If your unasked question is "how to make the light stay on when the door is opening" you need to remove the doorbell switch and replace it with a garage door switch compatible with your opener.


What to do when the cold water valve on the water heater is welded on? Our hot water seems to be running out faster than usual, and thanks to this site, we were guessing that we probably have a broken dip tube in our gas water heater. Unfortunately, someone in the past welded the cold water valve on. Is there any way to access the dip tube without a welding torch?

I think you mean soldered? A picture would help, a lot. There should be a flexible line going from the valve to the pipe system that detaches by loosening the hex-nut fitting. If there isn't a flex, you will be cutting it out and installing it properly, so that swapping out the next tank in ten years doesn't require calling a plumber, again.

I'm guessing yours looks like the one on the right in this picture. They should both look the one on the left. If this is your exact situation, I'd cut it out at the level of that other elbow on the hot side, install a valve there (perhaps mimicking that short horizontal run, to insure space for a power-vented unit's exhaust blower -to be installed in the future) and attach it with a new flex.

Picture source: How to Install a New Hot Water Heater, hubpages.com

The fitting could be heated with a blow torch to dissemble it for just a quick install of a dip tube and reassembled with no additional parts, PROVIDED, you are really good at sweating used copper fittings (not easy). If you're not and are going to have to call a plumber, I highly suggest having it re-piped as described so that you can swap it out yourself at some point when it dies.


What is the purpose of this grounding screw in a plastic electrical box? Upon inspecting my light bulb socket in the garage of my new construction home (2018), I found a random grounding screw which wasn't wired to anything but attached to some bar. Does anyone know what the grounding screw and the bar it's attached to is for? In fact, the ground wire wasn't connected to anything.

The bare ground wire in the electrical box is supposed to connect to the green screw on that short metal bar. The body of the light fixture is meant to be grounded through the mounting screw that goes into that metal bar. Do be aware that this technique of grounding the light fixture would have been the technique used in older installations. These days a light fixture will have a separate green or bare grounding wire that can be connected directly to the bare copper wire in the electrical box.

You may want to inspect that old light fixture and see if there is an existing screw or mounting hole to which you can add a separate grounding wire. You would then connect this added wire to the bare ground wire in the electrical box.


Can I splice a ground wire from old wiring to a GFCI outlet? After pulling out the old medicine cabinet in my bathroom, I found that the "new" GFCI outlet that was installed in the bathroom is not actually grounded.  The ground wire was just hanging loose.  Can I splice a ground wire from the ground wire in the existing wiring to the ground wire on the GFCI?  Or should I even worry about that and just leave the ground wire as is and not attached to anything else?

GFCI's don't actually require a ground wire, so it is legal to continue as-is.

Attaching the ground wire is worse than useless unless the ground wire you're attaching is actually connected to the house's grounding system.  So that's worth checking.  I would look for zero-ohm resistance between the ground wire and nearby water pipes, if they are metal.


Grounding fault - stray voltage on bath faucet 2 months ago I moved into a house from 1959 (1 220V phase and 1 neutral coming in). I noticed on the 2nd floor bathroom that there was stray voltage on the faucet (-+ 30V).
No socket outlets in the house have a ground pin. When I connect a power bar (which has internal grounding), I notice a stray voltage on its sockets too.

I installed an earthing rod (260cm / 8,5feet in the ground). I tested it while connecting a light bulb (40W) between a hot wire and the ground, and it bright up. Next I connected the earth cable to the breaker panels earth bar. There were already 2 ground cables from somewhere in the house connected to this bar, and I did not remove them.

I figured this would solve the problem of my faucet, but it didn't. Whenever I would stand on the bathroom floor and touch the faucet I could feel the stray voltage.

I then connected a new ground cable from the breaker panel's earth bar to the faucet. Using a volt meter I got these 3 readouts:

1) I'm standing on the bathroom floor, and hold a Volt Meter's pin1 in my left hand, while I hold pin2 against the faucet

2) Same situation, only this time I connected the new ground cable to the faucet

3) This time I hold pin2 directly against the ground cable.

I have no idea what's going on. How can my ground cable have a voltage of 30V, when I'm measuring between the bathroom floor and the ground cable (20m / 65feet) to the earth rod?

Update 7 months later:
This bathroom has been fully renovated now. I have a suspicion about what was going on initially.
Under my feet, inside the flooring there was a metal tube which held insulated electricity wires. At the endpoint of that metal tube was a light switch 1 floor underneath the bathroom, and I think it probably was a faulty device leaking current (a bad light switch can act as a sort of capacitor I think). (= fault 1)
The metal tube must have been connected in some way to the light switch. (= fault 2)
By standing directly above this metal tube I put myself at 30V potential,  and while touching the bath faucet (which I believe is a natural ground in any house) I felt this.

One of your appliances has a ground fault

It often comes as a shock to people, but sometimes their appliances have a defect.  Its internal electrical insulation isn't up to snuff, and it is leaking current (typically from the "hot" wire as neutral is usually harmless). If the leak is small, it may self-limit current to feelable but non-lethal amounts.   Such leakage tends to get worse, so what tickles today could kill tomorrow.

Essentially, the insulation failure and the human become a resistor ladder as both are resistors and both are in series. So the amount of the insulation leakage, and the quality of skin contact, determine resistance, and thus the amount of current.  Do it again with wet hands and now your resistance is much lower and you're dead.

As such, any tickle should be considered extremely dangerous and repaired with extreme prejudice.

DVMs (Digital Voltmeters) are not 100% reliable. Their resistance is so high (in theory they should read a fault as full line voltage) that they often misread ordinary capacitive coupling as relevant voltage.

Don't use yourself as a voltmeter. Hunt down a testing device that successfully indicates the fault, e.g. a non-contact voltage tester, mechanical meter voltmeter, neon light tester, etc.

GFCI/RCD is a starting point

If you want to get personnel protection in place tout suite, which I most definitely recommend, then install a GFCI aka RCD device powering either the offending circuit, all nearby circuits, or the whole house (which is the usual approach in Europe).  An 8ma threshold GFCI/RCD will provide personnel protection. A 30ma threshold will provide limited personnel protection, it can still kill, especially by a stun causing a drowning or fall.

Hunt it down, one appliance at a time

Now you need to move through each of your loads, and see which load or device is causing this.  You can start by shutting off one circuit breaker at a time, and see which one extinguishes the effect.

Once that's the case, note which devices are offline with that breaker off, and move through them one at a time.

Very rarely, it can be something totally out of left field.  I have no idea how to advise patrolling for that.


How can I keep my storm door from dragging on the threshold? I have an aluminium double glazed door that has dropped slightly and is dragging in the lower corner opposite the hinges.
I can't see how to adjust these hinges.  Under the black dust caps there is just a black plastic piece with a small round hole: no hex or screw. Is it possible to adjust these? If so, how? If not, how can I stop the door sticking?

Update: the door frame is a single metal frame.  The hinges each screw into a steel plate which is free to slide up and down inside the frame when the screws are loosened.  The black plastic is just separate pieces of clip-on cover.

Try tightening attachment of hinge to door and jamb.
If the attachment gets loose the door can sag.  It looks like you are missing a screw on the jamb side; center hole is empty.  I cannot imagine anyone would throw out a funky screw like this so maybe the escapee is still nearby in a drawer.
You should be able to tighten these with a hex wrench.  It might help to have an assistant lift the door slightly to oppose the sag and take the weight off the hinges when you tighten them.
Tighten all of them.  If there is a way to tell which hinge is the culprit I don't know it.
If this works that is great but it will happen again.  You might need to augment the holes in door and jamb to get a tighter purchase.


Blower motor turns on by itself I have Goodman model # GPG1348090M41AA. Back in December the blower motor ran constantly. I'd pull the breaker to shut it off, & when I turn the breaker back on, the blower motor would start right back. I clean the burners & reset the flame rollout switch. I thought that fixed it.
First time i turn A/C it worked fine. When it cut off after reaching the temp, I noticed the blower fan was running. I cut it off at breaker and a couple of days later, I kicked breaker back on with out the blower motor coming on. I had it cut off at the Thermostat a few days later when i noticed the blower motor running. since the cooled normally I just cut the breaker until i needed it to cool. A lock out code was the only code couple days ago. I tinkered with it trying to get the motor to run with no luck. I was about to call a pro, when tonight I happen to notice it running. so I turned it on to cool the house, & the A/C work perfect. when A/C reached it's cut off temp, it shut off but the blower motor had been running.

Older thermostats have a "Fan" switch that works independently of the system's On/Off switch.  That switch should be on Auto, not On or Circ or any other setting.
Newer thermostats have fan control too but some don't have a separate switch, just a setting somewhere.  Find it.  Make sure it's on Auto. Some newer thermostats have additional hidden "installer" settings that control the fan and limit what the user can do.  You can access those settings if you know how.
A thermostat can be wired incorrectly so the fan is always on.
The air handler can be wired incorrectly so the fan is always on.
Is it the thermostat?
If there is a fan switch, turn it to Auto (not On).  Did that fix it?  Good.
If it's on auto:  Turn off the breaker to the system.  Remove the thermostat from the wall.  Make note of how all the wires are connected to it.   Are any two wires connected to the same terminal?  That might be the problem.  Post a picture of that, and of the other end of this cable at the air handler.  If no two wires are on the same terminal, disconnect all the wires.  No wire should be touching the thermostat or any other wire or anything at all.  Turn the power back on.  Is the fan running?  If not, the thermostat is the problem.  If the fan is still running the problem is at the air handler.  Turn the breaker back off and put everything back. (You made note of where the wires were, right?)
Some thermostats are held to a base by plastic clips and can be yanked off the wall.  If you know you have one of these you can run the above test without turning off the power or disconnecting wires just by pulling the thermostat off the wall.  As long as you see that, on the base, no two wires are attached to the same terminal.


How do I get a plastic bag logo stain off my finished wood table? The bag in the photo below stained my wood table (see the photos).

The bag had held some heavy books an was laid face-down on the table.  I don't know if this happened through basic time and pressure, or if my cleaning lady applied cleaned the table with some Lemon Pledge, then placed the bag face-down on the newly cleaned tabletop.  The table is from Rooms to Go (R2G).  Officially per R2G's manufacturer catalog, it is a "cherry" wood with a "clear cherry" finish.

How can I remove this stain without having to refinish the table?

Update 1

Applying Minwax paste finishing wax removed a much smaller spot, but using it on this large an area requires a lot of elbow grease.  Applying pressure from a plastic stick pushing waxed paper towel is working, albeit slowly.  I wonder if Murphy's Oil Soap will help, but I don't want to add something new to the mix in case it sets the stain.

An online forum elsewhere recommended a paste of mayonnaise and cigarette ashes for a similar problem, but I don't smoke and therefore have no ashes available.

Update 2

I contacted a local furniture restoration company and showed them this post.  The lovely lady on the phone explained that R2G usually uses a spray-on finish with a name that starts with 'f'.  Her recommendation was to

proceed cautiously
tape over one grain direction
get some 4 0 steel wool
unfold it to a cloth shape
get some appropriately-colored Minwax
gently rub the Minwax using the wool in the direction of the grain
if it fails to fade, apply slightly more pressure

The actual solution she suggested was slightly more complicated than what I've typed out.  As 4 0 steel wool would definitely scratch the finish, this seems like a last resort; I'll stick with paper towels for now.

I wonder if a Magic Eraser is the same consistency as 4-zero / 4 0 steel wool, but having witnessed how a Magic Eraser can eradicate polish off a car, I am not going to start using one.

Update 3

Continuing to use the paper towel, Minwax, and elbow grease; based on the prior advice, I am also wiping with the grain.  Wiping with the grain seems to fade the stain faster than when wiping randomly.  This task is more complex due to the two grain directions, but I will persist and update on noticeable changes.  At this rate, I plan to purchase 4-0 steel wool on my next outing.

The stain (originally):

The (upside-down shot of the) stain (post-minwax + elbow grease):

Progress after applying more Minwax and pressure.  Doesn't look like much progress, but maybe that's just the lighting.

Per the question, I used Minwax until it faded, but it was still quite obvious and visible (close to the last pic in the question post).

Then, taking a page from the "mayo and ashes" tip, I mixed 1-part mayonnaise (Hellman's) to 1-part baking soda (not baking powder; I used Arm & Hammer brand) as a cigarette ashes replacement.  I rubbed the mixture along the grain directions using a paper towel and some pressure.

The stain faded, then vanished.  The resulting wood is smooth, and considering the baking soda is abrasive, appears unscratched.  After wiping off the mayo mix, my table may smell like a turkey sandwich, but it's beautiful again.

Now all I have to do is polish off all the Minwax buildup from my earlier cleaning attempts.

I would never have thought of going with the grain had I not spoken to the lady from Restore and Adore, and had the baking soda idea fell through, I would have gone with the "last resort" 4 0 steel wool with a lot of Minwax applied.

Pic of the repair:


remove a recessed light can i have old (late 1980's) recessed lighting. i cannot figure out how to remove the can. there are no springs,ears or anything i can see inside the can. the bulb holder is secured by 2 spring clips that fit into slots at the top of the can. the cover is white plastic that fits into notches in the can and screws to lock in place. i have removed the plastic cover and removed the bulb holder and felt around the top of the can for any type of release pin. it appears that the can is pushed into the ceiling and then spring clip secure it to the drywall.

Chances are that this fixture was installed at the time of the home's construction. It'll likely have two crossbars that were installed across the gap between the two adjacent roof trusses or floor joists:

Removing it would require access above the ceiling, or you can attempt to cut and disassemble the unit through the hole in the ceiling. If you can release any tabs that secure the can itself to the base plate you may be able to push the can up out of the way, allowing access to the crossbars.

Be aware that there's likely blown or batt insulation above and around the can. Take precautions to not get it in your eyes or any other sensitive or delicate places.


How do I wire a new light from an outlet, with power to the light box? I'm trying to run power from an outlet box to a light and then to a wall switch to control the light. The outlet box is in the attic and I want to go from the outlet to the light and then from the light to a single pole wall switch. What would be the proper way to wire each box?

Many drawings are obsolete.  The cable from the lamp to the switch must be 14/3 cable.  This is mandatory.

Fortunately, this also makes the colors less confusing.

Black = always hot
Red = hot when light switch is on
White = neutral (current return)
Green/bare/anything metal = equipment safety grounding,  hook everything to everything else, and I won't mention grounding again.

The switch has 2 (non-ground) screws. You attach a black wire and a red wire. This is logical since the switch decides whether hot (black) is fed to switched-hot (red).

If the switch is a "smart switch" or modern dimmer, it may also need white - if so, the instructions will say.  If white is not used today, put a wire-nut cap on it and tape that on (they tend to fall off a single wire).

Now look at the lamp itself.  You see it has a black and white wire.  That's a little "off color scheme", isn't it? Black means always-hot and that means the light would be on 24x7. That's just how they're made.  A red wire (switched-hot) makes more sense, don'tcha think?  That way the light would be controlled by the switch.  Just remember that weirdness...  or spend $4 on a 5-pack of colored electrical tape and mark the wire red.

With that behind us, up in the lamp box, and in the receptacle box, just match similar colors.   Black to black etc.

That was easy.  Power of color coding and using the right /3 cable.


Stuck silverware drawer I have a steak knife stuck in a open wire tray.  I can open the drawer about 4", but cannot release the knife that is lodged at the back of the tray.  Any suggestions?

Is this a kitchen drawer? You should have access to the back of the drawer (closed) by going down underneath through the kitchen cabinet.

Close the drawer and fetch your knife that way.


What to do with the wires when removing baseboard heaters I recently put in a forced-air whole house HVAC system in my old house.  I'll be yanking the old electrical baseboard heaters from everywhere in the house soon.

I'm wondering what all would be required by code in terms of removing the old wiring?  What I would like to do is just disconnect the wires from the breakers and tidy them up inside the box and label them well so future workers would know what they are.  Then at the other end just dike off the ends of the unconnected wires and shove them in the wall.

I'm guessing there might be some other code requirements beyond this approach?

The code is more concerned with wires you can access and remove. A good example would be a drop ceiling grid.

In your case if you do not have that ability then yes just snipping off the wires will suffice.  As an extra precaution stager the cut ends and tape off the ends with electrical tape.

Then remove them completely from the panel as to prevent any unforeseen reconnects.  If you are uncomfortable with working in your panel this way I would suggest hiring a licensed electrician.


How do I fix my leaky shower pipe? I'm in the process of building out my basement (as I've been for the past 3 years). Finally got around to installing a shower head pipe (leading out from the wall) yesterday, and it looks like the bottom part of this leaks when I open the valve. This is a brand-new installation, and I have tried pretty much everything I could think of...

rolled teflon tape twice around the pipe, no difference
rolled teflon tape appx 5 times around the pipe, no difference
tried screwing the pipe in without any tape, no difference
checked for any warpage inside the wall, nope, everything looks round enough

I'm not sure what else I can do to fix this. Even opening the valve just a bit (10-20%) initially shoots water out from below the showerhead pipe, which then settles into a definite multi-drop drip (and leaks into the drywall around the opening).

Any thoughts? Should I replace the in-wall pipe? I think I can do that without much pain (it's drywall, after all), but would rather not.

Edited to add: it's not the showerhead-to-pipe connection that's leaking; instead, it's the pipe-to-wall connection.

Edited to add: it's not the showerhead-to-pipe connection that's leaking; instead, it's the pipe-to-wall connection.

I think you figured it out. It is possible your drop ear fitting in the wall is cracked or you have a bad connection to it.

Normally, the plumbers pressure test the whole system before the drywall goes on. You may have to remove some drywall to repair the pipe and then patch the drywall.

Major bummer but all things can be fixed eventually.

Good luck!


What can I fill a trench around my house with to avoid creating a drainage issue? I am planning out my footing insulation job. Right now it's a pretty standard floating slab-on-grade with footings extending down a few feet, and the footings are uninsulated. A ring of concrete was, at some later point, poured around the original slab to ring the house with a walkway type thing. It's annoying me because it let termites enter the house unseen at some point. A "snow test" revealed that the house leaks a lot of energy from the original slab through the external one. So it's going to be history!

Here's a cross-section of the current state of affairs:

My plan is to remove the exterior concrete and dig a trench around the house to expose the footings. Then I'll attach 6" of EPS insulation foam boards right up against it, and metal flashing for drainage and termite control/tube visibility will be attached over that:

This leaves the question of what to do about the trench. I don't want to create any drainage or water control issues as a part of this project, because right now the house has none. I assume that simply filling it back in with dirt would be safe, but I want to fill it with other things instead, for the following reasons:

1. Scoria (lava rock)

Pros: extra insulation, looks pretty
Cons: Would having a trench filled with a gravel-like rock right up against footing insulation create drainage issues?

2. Sand

Pros: 16-grit sand creates a permanent termite barrier (16-grit sand is exactly the right size to impede their movement)
Cons: Would having a trench filled with sand right up against footing insulation create drainage issues?

I should mention that this house is in the Albuquerque, NM area and receives less than 12" of rain a year. So this isn't as important as if the house were in Seattle, but I still want to get it right.

P.S. I know that EPS foam is white, not blue, but white didn't look right in the diagram!

Below grade you should not be using EPS foam - that should be XPS (pink or blue, normally) - above grade EPS is fine. EPS is not waterproof, XPS is. You can also increase your subgrade insulation a bit by setting a sheet (or portion of a sheet) going flat or angled slightly downwards away from the house at the top of the footing.

If drainage is a concern (or even if it's not much of one) and you have the trench around the house dug, dig a trench away from the house to a lower point and place drainage tile (not usually actual tile these days - 3-4" perforated plastic pipe - the holes go down) around the footing and out to the lower point, and you'll have a solid drainage system in place. It's one of those things that should be done before the foundation is backfilled in the first place, as there will never be a cheaper time to do it, but rarely is. If filling with 16 grit sand, place filter fabric over the pipe to help keep the sand in place. Filter fabric is a good idea in general, but kind of critical with a sand fill. Pipe is already buried below the insulation, beside the footing, in the picture.

Unless it's going to be noticed by the authorities and cause you hassle for "illegally diverting rain water" (evidently happens in some areas) you might want to drain your foundation drains (and gutters, if any - otherwise it will mostly end up in the foundation drains) to a big buried tank (cistern) so you can use any water collected during the rest of the year, and only drain away the overflow, if any.


Will chained GFCIs malfunction? What I'm asking is if a GFCI wired onto the load of another GFCI will function?   Will it cause the upstream one to malfunction.  Will it cause the downstream one to malfunction?   It is against code?

I know I will inevitably get responses telling me there's no reason to do this or that I don't understand how to wire a GFCI.   This is not what I'm asking.

(Basically the reason is that it will allow be more flexibility to switch which circuit an outdoor outlet is wired into.   I will have access to a circuit for the garage (GFCI'ed) and circuit for a bedroom (AFCI'ed).   Using the GFCI protected circuit form the garage just seems easiest because it will therefore also protect some other outdoor lights.   But I don't know if the inspector is going to take issue with an outlet and a couple lights on the garage circuit but not in the garage.   If I just put an additional GFCI on the outdoor outlet, I think it is less likely to cause issues, and if it does, I can easily move it to the other circuit.)

As others have said, contacting the inspector is the best way to determine what they expect.  As for which circuit to install an outdoor receptacle on, I'd go with the garage circuit. It's already GFCI protected, and in my mind makes more sense on a garage circuit than a bedroom circuit.


How dangerous is to repair a stopcock without closing the main water entrance? I have, more or less, the situation bellow. I have simplified the scheme. It's a bathroom, (A) is a shower, (B) is a tap.
I would like to repair both A and B. The main stopcock doesn't work anymore.
Assuming I keep both A and B open while repairing one of them to alleviate the pressure, is it still too dangerous?

I'm trying to anticipate as much as possible problems that can occur before trying anything.

In another bathroom where the main stopcock works and have a similar layout, I was able to hold the water with the finger while simulating a repair. Not without lots of water in my chest.

As far as danger there is 9 meters of head approx that will be close to 14 psi slightly less so as a pressure hazard it’s not a big deal but if you cannot replace the parts quickly the water may end up causing problems weather you keep the other valve flowing or not.  Knowing the size of the supply pipe and valves would help to provide more information.


How to create threads in leveling feet Due to uneven floor, part of the oven does not stay parallel to the counter. I tried to tighten up the foot of the oven but it still does not fix the problem.

This is how the foot looks like:

Is there a way i can create couple of more threads in the foot to make it work?

Your cheapest and easiest option is a spacer under the foot. A small piece of plywood or a couple of wood shims will do the trick. Both will be available at a home improvement center or lumber supplier.


Do 90 degree shelf pins need to sit flush with wood? We had the same kind of shelf collapse as seen here, with less drastic consequences.

I went and found some nice 90-degree pins at the store, but noticed a small problem when installing.

The pins on the new supports are slightly longer than the old ones (old pins are 5/16", new are 7/16"). So when installed the nice L-bracket doesn't sit flush with the wall. Is this a problem? I'm guessing it should sit flush so that the wall helps the pin-hole support the weight. Pics at the end.

Should I just drill the pin-holes to be slightly deeper (assuming the walls are deep enough - these holes are on built-in shelves so it's not immediately obvious if they are) If I don't do that, should I file the pins down? Look for similar supports with slightly shorter pins? Or are they fine as is?

The same shape shelf pins are available in the same size you need. The pin is measured at the part that goes into the hole, some are 5MM, some are 1/4" I have never seen 7/16" or 5/16"


Is this a fire hazard? I was going to change a light switch and repair some wall damage. When I started opening up the wall above the switch, I saw the electrical wire clamped to the stud. I noticed black marks around it. Does this look like it might be a fire hazard and need an electrician. Personally I think so but I want to get some other opinions.

Yes it is. You are correct. Call in an electrician.


Loop-de- loop waste pipe I replaced an old metal pipe and p-trap with 2 inch PVC for a shower drain.  I was only able to fit the new pvc p-trap if I made a loop-de-loop. Is this a good solution?

It looks like you have a double trap, unless I'm mistaken on how the water flows through this drain.

I've scribbled in where water will sit in the pipe, which clearly shows two traps.

The best option would be to go from the upper 90 of the P-trap, directly into the outlet pipe.

When you rebuild the trap, you should use a u-bend with a cleanout.


Honeywell thermostat doesn't seem to be connected to standby generator Honeywell thermometer doesn't seem to be connected to standby generator. Heater is linked to generator panel, but thermostat loses power with outage. Ideas??Thanks

There is likely a 24V transformer somewhere that connects to both the thermostat and furnace. From what you described, my hunch is that the thermostat is on a separate circuit, not together with the furnace.

It could be a wall wart like this one or it could be a direct wired transformer like this one, in which case it may be mounted in or on the furnace (though then it would normally pull power from the same circuit), or it could be mounted to a junction box nearby.

Once you find it, you need to either move the circuit to the generator panel, or move the transformer to a different circuit that is already on the generator panel.