Why does it take my dryer 3 hours to dry a load of clothes? I have a Maytag model LD69806AAE clothes dryer. Since our tenants in our town home have moved in July 2012. They have pointed out that the dryer takes about 3 hours to dry a load of clothes. The dryer is about 10 years old but was not used that much. The previous owner (my wife's GF) hardly used it. My wife bought the place in 2006, and before I moved in when we got married in 2009 it was hardly used. She had two roommates at separate times but they only stayed for months at a time. The dryer is located in the center area of the first floor. There is about 28 feet of flex corrugated dryer vent duct work. It is routed to the outdoor patio. There are about 3 elbows in the duct run. The duct ended at a louver/grill at the exterior patio wall. Here’s a list of things we have done.

Had Sears replace the heating solenoid valve.
My brother-in-law and I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and ductwork at the point of connection to the dryer.
Replace the outside termination to a typical wall cap. Remove some excess flex duct close to the outside termination.
Had Coit Services Clean out the dryer vent ductwork

After the cleaning of the duct by Coit, our tenants mentioned the dryer time is better but still longer than expected (maybe 2.5 hours)

Now we are considering  re-routing (21 feet approx.) the ductwork with straighter runs and less elbows and provide smooth dryer vent ductwork and possibly increasing the duct from 4” to 6” at areas where possible. Will this make any difference?

Your duct is probably too long, and not constructed properly. Installing a proper exhaust system may increase the dryers performance, though this is not guaranteed.
Vent length and installation requirements will vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, but International Residential Code (IRC) gives us a conservative starting point.

International Residential Code 2009
Chapter 15 - Exhaust Systems
Section M1502 Clothes Dryer Exhaust
M1502.1 General. Clothes dryers shall be exhausted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
M1502.4 Dryer exhaust ducts. Dryer exhaust ducts shall conform to the requirements of Sections M1502.4.1 through M1502.4.6.
M1502.4.1 Material and size. Exhaust ducts shall have a smooth interior finish and shall be constructed of metal a minimum 0.016-inch
(0.4 mm) thick. The exhaust duct size shall be 4 inches (102 mm)
nominal in diameter.
M1502.4.3 Transition duct. Transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be a single length that is
listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A. Transition ducts shall
be a maximum of 8 feet (2438 mm) in length. Transition ducts shall not
be concealed within construction.
M1502.4.4 Duct length. The maximum allowable exhaust duct length shall be determined by one of the methods specified in Section
M1502.4.4.1 or M1502.4.4.2.
M1502.4.4.1 Specified length. The maximum length of the exhaust duct shall be 25 feet (7620 mm) from the connection to the transition
duct from the dryer to the outlet terminal. Where fittings are used,
the maximum length of the exhaust duct shall be reduced in accordance
with Table M1502.4.4.1.

M1502.4.4.2 Manufacturer's instructions. The size and maximum length of the exhaust duct shall be determined by the dryer
manufacturer's installation instructions. The code official shall be
provided with a copy of the installation instructions for the make and
model of the dryer at the concealment inspection. In the absence of
fitting equivalent length calculations from the clothes dryer
manufacturer, Table M1502.4.4.1 shall be used.

Basically what all this means, is that in general the overall length of the duct can be 33'.  25' of the duct system; measured from the exhaust hood to the dryer connection, must be 4" rigid metal duct. You can then have an 8' section of "transition duct", which can be flexible duct, but must be UL listed and labeled for the use. For each elbow, subtract the value from Table M1502.4.4.1 from the overall 25' length.
When you use flexible "transition duct", make sure the duct is fully extended and trimmed to fit. Don't leave the duct compressed and coiled.
Manufacturers Installation Instructions
If you look at the Maytag installation instructions (PDF), they tell you what type of exhaust hoods you can choose from.

The instructions then provide a table to determine the maximum duct length, based on the hood used and the number of bends.

Gas dryers need gas to dry, so make sure the gas is on before you spend too much more time or money on repairs. It might also be useful to make sure it's not user error, by making sure the tenants know how to use the dryer properly. Don't forget to make sure the tenants aren't overloading the dryer.


Do I have to worry about condensation on plywood over rigid foam insulation in the attic? I have a vented attic space with poor insulation in the attic floor and rafters, so I'm going to button it up.

My energy auditor suggested I insulate the floor as follows: cut blocks of rigid foam for the ends of the joist bays, and tack them in place with spray foam.  Then, fill the joist bays with loose cellulose, and top that with rigid foam (ISO) seam-sealed with spray foam.   This should create the air and vapor barrier between the conditioned and unconditioned spaces.  Finally, since I'd want to use it as storage space, I'd put plywood or OSB decking over the top.

The rafters will be fiberglass bats (there are some in place that were improperly installed, but in good shape, so I want to reuse them) with the foil side facing towards the roof about 1" off the sheathing.  I'll then staple FSK across the rafters with the foil facing in.

I think I'm on board with everything, but I'm wondering about the decking and the FSK.  Since the rigid will act as the vapor and air barrier between the conditioned and unconditioned space, do I have to worry about condensation forming on the decking?  Is it really worth spending money on the FSK if the attic space is vented?  I do have the ability to open and close the gable-end vents (the only active vents in the space).

This house is in Seattle, built in 1925.

I am sorry but this sounds like horrible advice.  Rigid or spray foam should not be used in large attics unless you just have money to burn.  For your $ fiberglass blown in insulation is perfect for your installation plus plywood.  (Fiberglass over cellulose since insects may love the coziness of the "wood boxes").

Also in large attics you ONLY insulate near the top floor ceiling.  Insulating the roofline is useless.


How do I remove or cut a sewer pipe at edge of our basement slab? What's the best way to remove the unused sewer / storm-drain pipe in the attached picture? It's coming up through the edge of our basement slab where it meets the foundation wall?

We want to remove it b/c we're finishing the basement and would like to frame as close to the foundation wall as possible (i.e. the pipe's gotta go & we won't need to use it again).

NOTE: we're having an internal french drain system put in in a few weeks, so they'll be digging up the edge of the basement slab (about 1' width all around the basement to put in the french drain & waterproof the foundation walls). Should we remove ourselves first somehow or wait and coordinate with waterproofers?

You are thinking about this way too much.  If you aren't using it anymore and the concrete is coming up the people doing the french drains won't think twice about taking care of it for you (for free) if they are reputable.  It is literally one whack with a sledge hammer that they will have available.  There is no use sawing through it or whatever if it is going bye bye.  They will simply remove it as they would the concrete around it.  Cast iron doesn't do well with a hammer.  The PVC on the other side can be cut with any kind of saw.


Can I build a concrete block wall over floor tile? I am enclosing a tiled porch on concrete slab with a 3' short wall of concrete block, with windows above. Should concrete blocks be laid over a tile floor?

The tile floor shouldn't be a structural weakness, but if it's glazed you won't get a good mortar bond. I'd install anchor bolts every 32" or so, aligned with block cores, and fill those cores with mortar.

It might be easier to simply cut the tile inside the wall line and remove it, though.

Also be aware that your slab may not be designed to carry a heavy wall. If it doesn't have proper footings underneath it may crack and settle.


Dimmer Switch Install - Trying to Locate Ground Would anyone be able to take a look at this and direct me to the ground in the box, if any. Long story short I’m installing a dimmer that comes with a green ground and don’t know where to attach it. I prefer not to use the plastic faceplate. Also, is it okay to simply change one of the 2 switches or do I need to do both? The left one is pigtailed so I prefer not to change that one. Thanks!

It's the bundle of bare wires in the rear right of the box
Since we are dealing with NM cables here, we know we need to look for a bundle of bare wires in order to find our grounding connection.  As it turns out, there is a bundle of bare wires heading through the center of the box and into a wirenut in the back right; it's simply not obvious that they're bare (I can tell from the diameter) because someone slopped a bunch of white paint and/or drywall mud into the box during construction.


What is a suitable filter cage to guard a wet pump from leaves? If I use a submersible 1/2 HP pump to empty standing water that is full of leaves, the pump's intake gets clogged so often that the process is considerably slowed down.

Two ideas can solve this problem.

Build—or better yet, buy—some kind of filter cage. I'm thinking of putting a mosquito net around a small plastic crate. Do I really have to DIY this, or is something similar available on the market? If it is, please provide a search keyword.
Built—or better yet, buy—some kind of hose filter. A hose submerged gets clogged in no time from the leaves. I built a small trinket that does this trick, but it's fiddly and needs fixing often. I wrapped mosquito net around the opening of a small plastic box and shoved one end of the hose in the base of the box. Is something of this sort available commercially?

Hardware cloth, it's easy to cut in squares or rectangles.

Use small fence staples to tack it to 2x2 sections at the edges to create a screen box to set the pump in.

1/2" or 1/4" mesh.


un-installing a microwave that does not have any visible top cabinet attachment I want to uninstall a Hotpoint model RVM1335 over-the-range microwave.  I thought I'd take it easy; so, I purchased installation and cart-away.  When the Home Depot delivered the replacement, they didn't know how to uninstall the old microwave; so now, the new one sits on my living room floor.

I found the installation instructions online for the existing oven. There is a paragraph on uninstalling it; but, they assume that the microwave was attached to both the back wall and the upper cabinet [like most.]

There are no [visible] screws or bolts either to the upper cabinet or to the cabinets on each side; only a hole for the power cord.  I "inherited" this in a home purchase; so, there's no one to ask.

Has anybody seen this before?

I helped a friend solve this very mysterious situation recently. Although every range hood microwave I'd ever seen or installed had screws run through the shelf above, this one had screws from the side, through the faceframe of the adjacent cabinets. The screws were covered with plastic caps set flush with the rails, so they were nearly invisible. I don't recall whether it was 2 or 4 screws in total.

Also look underneath any hinge leaves in that location.


Why would my ceiling light only work half the time? My bathroom ceiling light doesn't work right after it has been turned off. After a period of time it works again. What's happening?

If it is a recessed Fixture there can be a thermal overload protector in it. It is towards the top of the fixture and looks something like this. It could be that the Fixture is too hot and the inrush current through the protector is too much and its tripping the protector.   Is it an Incandescent Bulb?    Swap it out with a LED and see if it does the same thing.   You can buy replacement protectors too.


Can I move the posts under the beam in my basement? I have a parallam PSL in my unfinished basement and am wanting to move the support pillars for finishing purposes. The parallam is currently supported at the end by wood posts and 2 steel pillars in the center (7.5' in from the end with a 9' gap in the center). Can I add another pillar and shift them around to create a 9' gap from one end to the first steel pillar, and the other 2 pillars at closer distances? I can't find documentation on the product and don't know how to calculate loading

Edit: Looking at the basement structural plans, there is a long footing run underneath where the poles are and where i plan to move them. I've spoken to the engineer who designed the basement and said as long as the pole is on that run of footing, I should be fine. The long footing was poured because it's a load bearing run and poles were there to give me an option of either a load bearing stud wall OR just the poles. I even have pictures of the footing pour prior to basement floor pour to confirm it exists.

Possibly, but you should consult a structural engineer.  For the cost of less than a day's work for an engineer you will get an answer that you can rely on.  I know, it's unfortunate that you'd have to pay for this, but if you've invested hundreds of thousands of dollars into this house, or value your life it's probably money well spent.

The short answer, in the absence of engineering work, is no.  The reason is that those posts sit on footings that are below the slab, if you move off the center of the footings they won't actually be structurally supported, and could punch through the slab and cause the beam to collapse.


Can I add rolls of unfaced insulation to increase the R value of my attic insulation? I live in a two story home that is approximately 150 years old.  The attic  floor is constructed with large beams and old wood planks laid across the complete surface area, rendering the attic useful for storage.  The space is not that large, maybe 26'x 16.'  The previous owner of the home removed the center floor boards and just shoved encapsulated insulation the length of each bay.  This came no where near filling up the bays in both width and depth.  Obviously the upstairs was noticeably chilly.

Last fall I had new siding and new main roof installed on the house.  At that time I had a ridge vent installed as well as soffit vents on the front run of the main roof (unable to do them at the rear of the house because the main roof meets a flat roof).  Due to the nature of the floor construction in the attic we could not install baffles so we ended up drilling multiple holes in the wood floor in order allow some air circulation.

Moving forward, last January I had a company open up the center few planks of the attic floor and remove the old insulation and blow in cellulose.  To keep the soffits up front clear, they inserted fiberglass at the end of the bays.  Even though the bays are not deep, maybe 6-7 inches, I noticed a drastic improvement in the warmth of the upstairs even though the R-Value of the cellulose is not that high do to the size of the bays.  I also noticed my moisture issue in the attic was gone.

My question is, to achieve a higher R-Value, (I live in New Jersey) could I lay down unfaced rolls in the attic to get the R-value up to where it needs to be?  I do use the attic for storage, not packed full, just two rows of plastic containers.  If I stacked the containers to open up more floor space and then laid down R-30 unfaced rolls, would there need to be anything I should consider before doing it?

Yes you can. Every bit helps, though you can eventually reach a point of diminishing returns. You're not there yet :)

I would leave the floor boards to avoid compressing the cellulose. I don't need to tell you to maintain a ventilation path from the soffit vents, but it's worth mentioning. I would also consider building a storage platform for both containers and on which to walk (crawl?) so the ceiling can be fully insulated even under the storage area.


How to get rid of mosquitos in swimming pool standing water We have an above ground pool with about 6 inches of water that does not drain. The drain is located above the bottom, to keep water in it and weigh down the pool during the off season.
However, the still warm water is the perfect breeding ground for mosquitos. This is a problem during the advent of warmer weather, before the pool is used.

It is a salt water system, and the pumps & chlorinator obviously cannot be operated with the water drained to this level. Once the pool is operational in the hot season, the conditioning and filtering prevent this mosquito problem. So this is really only a problem when the Spring weather is warm enough for breeding, but prior to starting the pool for the Summer.
Before I start-up the pool to fill it, I drain the water with a sump or water feature pump and then wet-vac it dry. This is something I do once at the beginning of the season, and takes a few hours of work. As measure to prevent mosquitos it would not be so good, since the bottom will fill with every rainfall and I'd have to start over.
What can I do to prevent mosquitos breeding until I start-up the pool for the season?

Mosquito Dunks are a doughnut shaped product for exactly your problem. They contain a bacterium toxic to mosquito larva but not toxic to humans, pets or birds. They will only kill larva.
Any adult mosquito travelling by will still be available to bite you. You might also check out designs for bat or bird houses to encourage some natural predation.


whirlpool washing machine stops after rinse cycle, will not spin, and knob makes a noise I have a Whirlpool Ultimate care 2 and it stopped draining water and entering the spin cycle. I initially thought it was the water pump and replaced it. The draining lines seemed clear(no issues with draining water from washer, even the ones connected to the water pump ;) ), but I am running into the same issue. Now I've noticed that when I set the machine to rinse(from empty) it filled with water and that was it. When I turned the knob to another cycle for rinse, the knob would begin make a noise kind of like a timer then eventually stop. Not sure if it is something intrinsically wrong with the knob mechanism or the lid switch. Please help!

The most common reason for this is a bad lid switch. The drain function is part of the spin cycle, which will not start unless the lid switch closes a circuit to indicate that the lid is closed. If you are reasonably handy you can jumper the switch to prove this out. Since you already replaced the pump (which, by the way, would be the second most common cause of your problem) I would assume you are capable of testing/replacing the lid switch.

The "timer" noise you are hearing from the knob is likely normal, you just never heard it before because you never had to pay close enough attention to it before you had problems.


Furnace fan is rattling I took apart my in-wall furnace and found that the fan blades are loose with the fan hub so when the motor starts or stops, the blades don't receive any torque and they make a lot of noise.

The pieces of the fan look kind of like this: http://airdrive.com/products/hubs/

I'm just trying to understand how I can mechanically or chemically attach the two pieces as I'm assuming they should be attached. I tried soldering and that obviously didn't work (didn't really expect it to either). Maybe there is some loctite glue I can use that will chemically bond them?

Here are some photos: http://imgur.com/a/pc5X9

These blades typically have a boss that has a set-screw and also might be "keyed" (i.e. has a round hole with a flat spot, to mate with a shaft equipped with a flat area, to provide a landing surface for the set-screw).

Your problem sometimes occurs when the set-screw has come loose due to vibration; check it and tighten if necessary. It is also possible that the boss in the fan blade/propeller was damaged by the spinning shaft, because the set-screw was loose; this normally requires fan blade replacement.


Rewiring a switch controlled receptacle to a ceiling fan I am trying to rewire our bedroom so that a switch that currently turns on/off a receptacle will instead control a ceiling fan and leave the receptacle always hot.

Receptacle: Has 3 cables coming into the box. The outlet has a 1 hot wire and 2 neutrals attached to it. In the box there are 2 hot and 1 neutral wire nutted together.

Switch: Has a 2 conductor cable coming into the box.

I have installed the fan in the ceiling and have run a cable in the attic from the fan to the switch box.  At this point I am confused as to complete the wiring of the switch and the receptacle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Based on your description, it sounds like your wiring is this.

To wire the fan, you will need to remove the switched loop and convert it to a regular wire.  So in the outlet box, disconnect the neutrals and hots.  Wire cap all 3 neutrals together with a pig tail to reconnect the outlet, do the same for the hots.  At the switch, remove the neutral from the switch and wire cap that with the neutral to the light.  Then put the hot to the light where the neutral was on the switch.  Like so.

I did not add grounds in the picture but they should be wire capped together in each box with a ground wire to the outlet and switch.


How should I repair a new crack in the ceiling drywall? Last night there was a huge, house-rattling windstorm. This morning, there's a new hairline crack in some ceiling drywall. What's the best way to repair it? Should I fill the crack with spackle first, or can I just paint it straight away?

Consider using a paintable latex caulk. Apply a very small amount then work it into the length of the crack with a finger. Wipe off all excess with a damp rag or sponge, then paint. It is a good method requiring no sanding. If your ceiling is painted with flat (no gloss) paint, as most are, you will not be able to see it when you are done.


Anyone have any experience ordering slabs or wood? I've been looking around lately for 2 slabs of Oak possibly reclaimed for some bar tops in my house. We live in CO where pine in plentiful but Oak is not. I need something that will be a little more resistant to kids than pine will be. I'm coming up with nothing. Has anyone here had any experience with ordering something like this?

Keep your eyes open for newspaper or online notices of Yard Sales & Estate Sales, these will also include Landlords, Stores, Hotels & Casinos looking to get their buildings cleaned out by the public wanting to remove anything.

Constantly check Craigslist types of websites, your phonebook & internet for Auction, Salvage & Reclamation companies & yards. They usually get the best stuff because they're on the call list of Demolition companies.

Finally, check Salvation Army, Goodwill, Green Drop & Habitat For Humanity. And, consider dismantling a large old Bedroom Dresser or Armoire or an old Diningroom Table or maybe a China Cabinet & an old Livingroom Coffee Table.


Is it within code to complete 12g wiring circuit with 10g wire? In installing a dishwasher on a dedicated 20amp circuit on 12g wiring, I've come short about 5 feet to run a line. I have some surplus, heavier, 10g wire. Would it be safe to install a junction box and hook 10g wire to the existing 12g wire to bring enough wire to the dishwasher?

Yes, you can use larger wire.  However if you are putting in a junction box it must remain accessible.  That means you cannot cover it with drywall or hide it behind anything.


Could this nothch in my sash been made by termites? Could a termite or something else have made this hole? My wife is pretty sure it didn't exist before.

It is not termites, it is not carpenter bees. It has been there for some time since it has paint in the gouge. It looks like somebody cut on it while it was open, but can't tell for sure, the picture gets too fuzzy when it gets enlarged enough to show small details. Nevertheless, it has been there for sometime.


How can I calculate my anticipated peak current load? Preamble

This question takes place in Japan.

In Japan, domestic electrical service is metered, but there is also a monthly fee that increases with larger service capacity.  Units are wired for (typically) up to a 60 A service, but the installed breaker is limited to the rate plan the customer pays for.  A 30 A service is less expensive than a 40 A service, and upgrading to a higher rate plan is done with a simple breaker swap which can be done at most once per year.

Rate plans start at 10 A and move in 10 A increments up to a typical maximum of 60 A. Power is single phase, 100 V only, so 10 A = 1000 W, etc.

Question:

How can I calculate what service size I need?  I would like to select the smallest amperage plan necessary.

My home has a 30 A main fuse installed. The maximum sub-fuse is 40 A.
So upgrading to 40 A seems logical.
But actually I'd like to calculate the maximum fuse needed if I'd run (all/multiple) of devices.
Some like the air-conditioner have an current written on their body. Other appliances just have maximum power and voltage.

Would I be correct in doing the following?

calculate maximum current with voltage and power of each device
summing up the current of all of the devices (i.e. 10 A + 20 A + 7 A + 5 A)
finding thus the maximum current of the main fuse

To answer the actual question here :

The maximum sub-fuse is 40A. So upgrading to 40A seems logical.

No, the 40A device you're looking at is probably this one :

This is a GFI/RCD trip device and its main purpose is to provide ground fault protection for the dwelling.  It does have a 40A rating, but this does not impact your user load calculations in any way.  What you need to consider is only the applicances you will be using, and the schedule that you will be using them on.
As an aside, the service breaker here is the green one on the left - this is the breaker TEPCO will change if you upgrade your service.  I suspect if you ask for a service upgrade to something greater than 40A they will also replace the ground fault unit to match the service rating.

Would I be correct in doing the following?
calculate maximum amperage with voltage and wattage of each device
summing up the amperage of all of the devices (ie. 10A + 20A + 7A + 5A)
finding thus the maximum amperage of the main fuse

You can do this if you anticipate that you will be using all of your electrical devices at the same time.  If, however, you are trying to make a better guess of your peak load, you should consider all your appliances and figure which combinations of them you will likely be using at the same time, and then select the highest load use case you expect you will encounter.
For example, if you never plan to use the microwave while drying your hair, you don't need to consider the load of both of those appliances at once.  If you're really trying to save on a rate plan, you can also then develop a daily routine that deliberately places certain activities at different times to reduce your peak electrical usage.  If you're fine turning off the A/C, for example, while you use other high-load devices for a short activity, this can really cut down on the service size (and cost) for your electricity in Japan.
This kind of mindful load balancing is very much encouraged in Japan, and the steep rate pricing for larger service is very much designed to promote this kind of peak-shaving behaviour.  It reduces the peak grid load if everyone is mindful to not dry their clothes and make rice at the same time, so this kind of lifestyle hacking is very much the norm in Japan, especially since the setsuden push following the loss of Fukushima.
There is a good article at Japan Times that discusses these types of strategies.

Service Types
Also, keep in mind that there are two types of common electrical service in Japan.  The panelboard in the image above (which we now know looks "exactly" like yours) is showing a two-pole service feed, or what is called in Japan a "single three" (単3) service.  "Three" here refers to the number of wires - two hot and one neutral.  A 単3 service at 30A provides two hot legs at 100V, so 6kW of total power, or effectively 60A of 100V power.  This type of service also allows for 200V loads for larger appliances, A/C, etc (note the 200V breaker top-right above, for example).  200V loads draw from both legs, so they must be budgeted separately.
The other common type of service is a "single two" (単2) service, or single pole, two wire service.  This type of service provides only one hot leg and 100V power only.  A 30A 単2 service can only provide 3kW, not 6kW like the 30A 単3 service, so when calculating how large your service amperage needs to be you need to be sure which type of service you have.  Harper's excellent answer below provides more detail on how to calculate your loads for both situations.


Installing 2 shower heads I'm about to finish the rough plumbing in my shower, wife wants 2 shower heads. I'm fine with it, but what are the specs for the pipe size? Can I buy 2 shower valves with 1/2" inlets or do I need 3/4"?
 I am running 3/4" PEX to the first valve and plan to reduce to 1/2" at the valve. But I can do whatever is needed to keep good water pressure, including soldering copper at the valve.

* you're going to want to make sure to balance flow*

In order to do that you will want to loop the pipes around back to itself.

If you want to make the primary loop out of three-quarter inch pipe it certainly wouldn't hurt but is probably not necessary unless you have extremely high flow shower heads.

Edit

Here's a better image

You can use one or both of the optional valves you can even go with none but then you will always have flow through both shower heads.

Sorry I tried rotating the image it keeps going upside down

This is an example of the optional valve[][4)] https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiOycnFsPPgAhWFw4MKHSSuDd4QjB16BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.qssupplies.co.uk%2FTaps%2FStop-Valve%2FProduct%2F485.htm&psig=AOvVaw0yBhytq_2amzj_lDQGskPk&ust=1552163162650315


Trouble with twinned Bryant heating units I have twinned heating units as w1 and w2. The first unit to come on needs to be replaced; but, until then I need to know how to get the system to heat better. The problem is the fan comes on on unit one (even though the heat does not come on on this unit) when the system comes on and unit 2 is heating. Seems like it is diluting the heat by pulling air through a cold system. Would you recommend turning off the fan on unit one? And if so what is the best way on an older Bryant unit? Would it be at the Thermostat?

Such a setup usually involves a spring-loaded or motor controlled damper specifically to prevent air flowing through a shut-down unit. If you have such a damper then shutting down one unit is perfectly fine.


Heater blowing cool air I did an experiment with the central heater when I noticed it was blowing slightly cool air. I first let the temperature drop to 67 degrees. Then, I set the thermostat to 68, which triggered the heater to turn on. The air coming from the vents blew mostly cool with a hint of warmth. After letting the temperature level off at 68, I switched off the heater and let the temperature drop back down to 67. When I raised it to 70 degrees, the heater turned back on and the air blew much warmer and eventually leveled off at 70 degrees.
Is there something wrong with my heater? Why does the set point affect how warm the air that comes out of the heater is? Shouldn't the heater always blow with the same warmth regardless of the set point and just shut off when the set point is reached?

The set point or thermostat is just a switch it has nothing to do with the heat in the system unless a high end one. With that said there are possible multiple speed taps on your blower motor and depending on the setup it could be in a higher speed than needed for heat. Normally we run AC at a higher speed than heating but not always. Some systems are dual stage but a 2-degree difference would not be enough to trigger that if you had it.
Providing the model and type of heater you have might give enough information to create a better answer like if it is a heat pump (outside compressor) the air handler inside moves the air a very cold day outside with emergency heat turned off it may not heat as well compared to a gas fired or all electric heater with an air handler. But it is heating, moving air even when warmer than ambient may feel cooler so a thermometer in the duct may show it is a few degrees warmer even though it feels cool. So there can be multiple reasons for your observations both working fine and possibly needing some work depending on the type.


Why is the power to three bathrooms' lights out? I have no lights in any of my bathrooms which i have 3.i checked all outlets and they have power. I reset all breakers and still no lights. Any ideas?

Let's think about the bathroom wiring rules for a second.  The latest Code says you use one of two methods for the 20A circuit that must be dedicated to bathroom receptacles.

In one case, a circuit can power receptacles in any number of bathrooms, but only bathroom receptacles, not  fixed loads in the bathroom such as lights.
In the other case, a circuit can power receptacles in one bathroom only, but can also power fixed loads like lights in that same bathroom.  This is a weaker design since if you trip the bathroom breaker, the lights go out.

It sounds like your builder used method #1, with a twist, he put in a second circuit right alongside that powered each bathroom's lights.

No breakers are tripped, OK.  In modern construction they are fond of a connection method on switches called "backstabs", where the wire is jabbed into a hole on the back.  These are prone to failure, and it is the first place I would look.  Putting the wires properly around the side screws is the far more reliable way.

Any wiring failure in a chain from the panel is either at the failing location, or at the last working location prior.  I would expect to find it in the nearest bathroom to the panel.


1923 house with wood fireplace converted to gas problem Our house was built in 1923.  Prior owners converted from wood burning to gas.  We went to remodel the tile's around the fireplace and found a problem.  The original opening was much larger and not filled in, thus causing our main living room with cool or cold drafts.  Is there a proper way to fill in this area prior to redoing the tile with stone?  There is a mantel around fireplace that is one piece covering top and sides. Also, Is there an easy way to update the gas fireplace and adding a timer knob or remote for ease of use?

Any type of photo or even a rough drawing might help get more suggestions from the community. As far as the opening at the hearth being to large you will need firebrick to enclose it to the size required. In place of common cement mortar a refractory-type is used to bond the bricks together. It would be wise to dry- stack the bricks in the proposed location and see how it affects the draw from the hearth. That way you are able to add or remove bricks to control air draw before they become permanent.  Also, unless the chimney was upgraded at the time the fireplace was changed from wood to gas fuel, you should make sure the flue is the correct type. I seem to recall that the smoke from burning natural gas may cause an accelerated deterioration of the original brick and mortar chimney. It would be worth having it checked and looked at.


How can I ground old 2-prong receptacles?  (120V) I have several old receptacles that are 2-prong.  There is armored cable running from the breaker panel to each receptacle.  What do I need to do in order to install and properly ground new 3-prong receptacles?

The correct answer is that you cannot install a 3 prong grounded outlet without using a 2 conductor with a separate ground conductor, that's three conductors.  I know people cheat and put a wire from the ground screw of the outlet to the metal box and hope that the armor case is firmly connected to the box and grounded at the panel. This is not a good alternative to 14 or 12/2WG and can be potentially very dangerous. Example, if you were to have an open neutral, the ground can potentially take over, now you have current on the armor shield, not good.  Btw, there is no good way to remove paint from an outlet.  Just replace it. In your case, you should be looking at some new wiring.


Push button lock unlocks when knob turned Recently my bedroom lock (a push button lock) has been acting funny.  It's hard to push the button in and the button and handle sort of need to be jiggled to push it in all the way.  Once it's in it fails to actually lock. Specifically, when locked, if i turn the outside handle upwards then the lock stays intact but if i turn it downwards then it will seem locked but the push button will pop out as the handle returns to its place.  so to unlock it from outside all i have to do is turn it downwards twice (first time seems locked but ends up unlocking it and then the second one opens the door).

my building has unique looking knobs and i'd rather fix it if possible instead of replacing it.  anyone have any idea what i might want to look at?  i did take the knob off and play around with it.  obviously it's hard to see inside of it though and i didn't get much insight.

It sounds to me like something in the knob has worn out (eg, a metal locking mechanism has broken off or been worn down). If this is the case, there's not much chance that you'll be able to [easily] fix it.

If it was me, I'd just replace the knob. You may also be able to swap it with another knob in a location where you don't need a working lock.


What can I use as dog kennel roofing? I have a 10' x 10' chain link kennel (standard round tube).

I'm looking at roofing options, and all of the kennel covers that I've found so far are tarps. I have concerns over the durability and snow load of tarps in winter (I live in Maine).

Are there any materials that would be more durable and affordable?

I've lived in Canada and now the Midwest where snow can get good depth at either place. We've always used tarp reinforced with additional cross beams and tied with hard ties, but some off the shelf walmart tarp won't cut it. You need "heavy duty" tarp rated for all-weather use. You can generally expect reliability out of it for around 10 years.

We tried the corrugated roofing and noticed three things that made us switch. On the rainy days the sound it makes drove both the animals and ourselves nuts. When it hails, they get beat up really quick and easy. especially if they have a couple years on them and have gotten brittle in the case of the plastic types...and on the windy days, it becomes a great big sail that can really put some test to your anchors if they aren't rock solid. Where as the tarps somehow seem to have more "give" to them.

Anyway, it will all come down to what you're dealing with in your particular area and the type of weather. I would ask a neighbor or buddy to see what's worked best for them.


How to hang a "Coolaroo" shade-sail? We'd like to hang a Coolaroo shade-sail over our elevated deck, but are uncertain, how to best attach it.

Deck is adjacent to the house's second floor, but the walls have no hooks and are covered with Hardieplank siding. What's the best way to install some feature (a hook or an "eye"), which will be able to withstand the substantial stresses the sail may apply to the rigging in the wind?

On the other side of the deck there are no walls at all -- it is circled by safety fence, but the posts are neither tall enough nor attached hard enough to withstand the above-mentioned stresses. I'm thinking of using longer ropes to attach to the trees beyond the deck's fence.

But the question of how to attach to the house remains...

For attaching anything bigger than christmas lights to the house, the siding is just a covering of the frame. And the frame (wall studs, etc) is what you need to securely anchor to. You can either drill straight through the siding or cut some siding away and tackle it that way.

It's spooky when you cut into your house, no doubt, so the concept of "measure twice, cut once" really starts to take center stage. You can read up a bit on general tutorials, and getting it right includes not drilling into pipes and wiring that might be behind the siding running through the walls.

Regarding the side with the fence and the trees, you'll get a lot of stretch out of the ropes you use, to the point where you may want to consider guy wires. They'll be much smaller than equivalent strength rope, last much longer (probably longer than all of us), and will have much less stretch than rope even double its size. The downside is that it's a pain to work with if you're not familiar with the material.

In short:

Secure the house-portion to structural framing elements of the house using quality hardware, and weatherproof when you're done.
Consider using guy wires for both parts to keep a good look, but definitely on the longer side to minimize stretch.


Can 2 stage furnace be forced to stay in low? Can 2 stage furnace be forced to stay in low? My airflow noise (and duct pops) is loud enough to wake me up, so I want to test if low reduces this problem enough before I rip into the finished spaces to quiet the ductwork (with flex, or insulation, or...)

The W2 wire in the thermostat controls the 2nd stage heating.  If you disconnect that wire at either end you should not get the 2nd stage.

By the way, you might also check to see if your furnace has a fan speed control.  The default setting, usually HIGH, may be too high for your installation.  I know that in my unit there is a rotary switch with labels "I", "II", "III", "IV", "V" that controls the blower fan.  I found that "V" sounds like a tornado but "IV" does the job.


Floor Support Repair Slight sway in kitchen floor, I Removed a divider wall in a basement and discovered  the previous homeowner had removed a staircase and filled in the entryway by adding 2"x 12' joists that are only supported by hangers.

This has Resulted in a distinct dip and sway along the effected area.
I have a 9 ft span that needs support in order to level.

Looking for advise on support beam size and if I can support the beam with two steel basement style columns.

I had a similar situation, only it involved removing some load bearing walls.  The wall framed what originally was the furnace (boiler) room in the house.  Inside that room was a ~3'x6' entry into the attic.  So the wall on two sides of the room provided the support for the ceiling joists, similar to the way your floor joists rested on the old wall for the stairway.

When I removed the furnace room and it's walls, I had to provide a new support beam for the ceiling joists, which are also the floor joists for the attic above, to replace the load carrying walls that were removed.

I cut back the existing joists enough so I could get a doubled up 2x12 glulam up there.  Then I fastened the existing, cut back joists to the glulam beam with joist hangars.  I also had to provide required posts back in the two wall that the beam rested on, which carries the load down to the foundation.  Note that I had to do this two times because I did not want to move the access to the attic, and had to provide the beams on both sides of the attic opening.  Here are some pictures:

First shows the existing joists cut back to provide room for the beam.

Second shows one of the two beam in place and the joists attached to it-

Here's a view of both beams.  Note the double or tripled-up 2x4 posts added in the existing wall to carry the load from the beams.

And yes, the flowered contact paper is still on the hatch covering to the attic.  Wife thinks its whimsical.

I can put together an overall sketch if people think that will help

EDIT 1 - Added sketch of joist layout


What comes first, window trim or stucco? We have some new windows in new construction with only lath around them and some existing windows with existing stucco around them. At what stage would be the best time to install wood window trim?

First the window goes in then the stucco on the outside and trim on the inside. We usually leave finish trim for last just in case someone drops a ladder through a window while stucco is being put on (it happens) .


Best way to fix tile One of our old tiles suddenly feel off, the others seem ok.
What's the best to fix back.  I don't think I'll be able to get a new tile to match, and I don't think I can chisel the old mortar off without it breaking.
See pics:
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enter link description here

As long as the old mortar on the wall isn't crumbling you should be able to replace it without too much difficulty. Use a wire brush and get as much of the old mortar off the wall and the tile as you can, especially anything loose. For only one or two tiles I just use a good construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails for marble and tile. Use some spacers to keep your seams even, Support the tile in place while it dries. If the tile isn't too heavy you can use duct tape to hold it. Then just grout the seams. Good luck.


How should I install tile backer board with a curved tub flange? I'm attempting my first bathroom remodel and been down the debate of how/where to place the tile backer board. I found this thread here: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/32090/94284

Should I put furring strips on the verticals to make it flush? notice the shape of the flange on my tub. Not really sure how to deal with this compared to all the examples with a vertical lip on the tub that seems much easier to deal with. Any illustrations or examples would be greatly appreciated. Not sure if I should try to get the board in front of this as it's not a flat/vertical lip... or above it. and how to prevent curved tile at the bottom.

You can put backer board on top of this flange and then set the tile to overlap the flange and sit down snugly on the tub, sometimes having to bevel the back side of the bottom edge of these bottom tile with a diamond blade on a 4.5” angle grinder. But, make sure that the combined thickness of the backer board and tile will get you out far enough to achieve this. You may need to furr the wall out a bit anyways to make overlapping that flange possible.

Before setting the tile you want to tape all joints with alkaline resistant mesh tape and use a suitable surface prep cement to fill all voids at all seams and screw heads, including the void at the bottom where the backer board sits on the flange and not down on the tub. Flatten as much as possible while the mud is wet, and when it’s set give it a rubbing with a flat grinding stone to knock down any minor imperfections. You
May need to repeat the process to get where you need to be. Apply your waterproofing membrane, then set your tile.

Remember that tile is a surface finish, just like paint, and the quality of the prep beneath will show through in the tile. The flatter you make your substrate the easier it will be to keep the tile flat, and the easier it will be to eliminate voids and irregular bonding between the tiles and the backer, which will prolong the life of the job.

On that note - how well in plane are the studs of the walls you plan to tile? You may need to furr studs out to bring them all into a flat plane - this is the first thing you can do to ensure success. The extra time spent here will come back to you at every other step of the process. If the walls are really bad you can run 1x3’s perpendicular to the studs, use shims to bring the 1x3’s into plane, and hang your backer board on the 1x3’s.

Maybe more info than you’ve asked for but is hopefully relevant.


Why does AC unit need condensation drain trap? I am modifying the drain pipe that drains my inside AC unit. When I purchased the home, there was an electric drain pump tied to the unit. Upon investigating why the unit needed one I found a pipe in the wall that used to drain the old AC system. The problem is the drain was too high in the wall to be used on the new AC when the previous owner replaced it.

So I opened up the wall and rerouted the pipe so it was at the same level. My problem is that the end of the drain is just barely low enough to create the minimum slope needed for water to drain correctly ( 1/4 inch drop per 1ft).

To make this work with a condensation drain trap, I was wondering if I could used the secondary drain coming off the unit as the main drain. This is because the secondary drain is about an inch higher then the main.  If cant do this then I wont be able to use a condensation trap.

How important is the condensation drain and can I use the secondary drain rather then the main.  Thanks guys!

The trap in the condensate drain, prevents the unit from sucking air from; or blowing air into, the drain line. Without the trap, the condensate may not drain until the blower turns off. This could lead to the pan overflowing. So you can't remove that.

The secondary drain is typically for situations when the main drain is blocked, or otherwise insufficient.  In some units, condensate only reaches the secondary drain when the pan overflows. If this is the case, using the secondary drain as a main, would allow water to sit stagnant in the pan. So you probably won't be able to use it as the main drain, but it may vary depending on the unit.


Do I need to plug my snow thrower to GFCI outlet? I bought a snow thrower with 13.5A power. One area of my house is close to a GFCI outlet but the other side of the house is not. It's just a regular outlet. So I am not sure it can be safe to use with the normal outlet.

Addition Info: The Model is Snow Joe Ultra 18-IN 13.5 AMP Electric Snow Thrower with Light - SJ621

I think your question is about safely using your snow blower with a non-GFI protected outlet. As a rule of thumb, any appliance used outdoors should be plugged into a GFI outlet. In your case specifically, I think you will find that your snow blower handles and controls are well insulated electrically from the source voltage and motor. The case is probably all plastic. The risk of shock is very low, but possible if you were handling the base unit for some reason. The proper answer would then be to always use a GFI protected power source for all items used outdoors.


Partially finished basement conduit? Took down the drop ceiling to paint it black and am installing new recessed lighting and cleaning up/ fixing the terrible wiring job i discovered after removing the ceiling. My question, along some of the painted cinder block walls there will be outlets, can my conduit stop once at the ceiling or should i just run all junction boxes/lights/outlets in conduit ?

The service panel

First, that tiny 16-space panel is already super-full, and way to small for any civilized sort of house. As you refinish that basement, provision space for either

Fitting a subpanel directly beneath it (or anywhere else in the house that is convenient).  I recommend a 30-space/30-60 "circuit" so you finish with 44 spaces (30+16-2).  A main-lug subpanel is fine.
Replacing the main panel with a 40-space, however this is intrusive and/or expensive.

The 30-40 space new panel will certainly have a higher amp bus rating than your current service; that is desirable, it's like fitting VR tires (130mph) on your car instead of R tires (85 mph) even though you don't exceed 85.  If you replace the main panel the new main breaker will surely be 225A, change it to whatever size the electric company tells you to.

I boggle at what is going on with the wood framing around the panel.  It looks like the framing is proud of the panel and giving it side clearance, with cables running along the sides of the panel.  That's fine, but more room should be given so you aren't bunching >4 cables together, and so you can practically use the plentiful side knockouts on the panel.

Conduit vs. wire guard

There are two ways to use conduit:

as a random piece of metal to guard/protect wires run in a cable wiring method, this involves monkey-wrestling balky cable down the pipe.
as the conduit wiring method, wherein you are entitled to use individual wires (and even stranded wire, which is wonderful to work with, though tricky to terminate at a non-screw-to-clamp outlet or switch)

You can transition between the cable wiring method and conduit wiring method at any junction box.  That's important because  given the framing around that service panel, it may be challenging to get conduit all the way to it.


Paint is scraping and wiping off too easily I recently painted some of my house with Glidden Duo eggshell (primer included).  Days after painting, my wife informed me that the paint was wiping off and scraping off extremely easy (just the new paint- you can see the old paint underneath). This is still happening after about a month. I've never seen this happen before.  The paint underneath was a Valspar latex eggshell and was put on about 7 years ago.  I wiped down the walls before painting.  Any ideas why this might be happening and what I can do next time to prevent it?

It looks like other people have had similar problems with this paint. It could be a bad batch of paint, or a strange interaction between the old paint and the new, but I think it's more likely that the wall just needed a little more preparation than is normal.

Most modern latex paints will stick to glossy undercoats pretty well, but it never hurts to rough up the underlying surface with a 100-150 grit sand paper. I've also heard several painters say that the best prep they ever did was wiping everything down with a 1:10 solution of Clorox Bleach and water. Anytime I paint anything, I will run over the whole surface with a scraper just to get anything that comes up easily.

I hope that helps!


Removing Joint Compound with Paint Over It I was attempting to repair a handful of hairline cracks in my drywall over the weekend, and got a bit overzealous with regard to the amount of joint compound I added.  This meant I could not sand it down enough to be level with my wall.  I'd like to give this another try, however I painted a [thin] layer over one area.  Will I be able to use the warm/hot water + drywall sponge technique to remove the mud?  Should I do something before that (i.e., sand) to make the hot/warm water + sponge technique more effective?

Any tips appreciated.

Thank you.

The only way you'll get at the joint compound is to remove the paint. Products exist to dissolve even dried latex paint, or you can sand or scrape it off. Once that's done, a simple damp cloth will allow you to rub away the joint compound.


hardwood flooring in two rooms not parallel I have hardwood flooring in my dining room and another room, with kitchen in between. I want to extend the flooring to make the kitchen hardwood as well. The problem is that the flooring in the two existing rooms are not exactly parallel. They differ by a few degrees. I could run the new flooring exactly parallel to the dining room, then when it hits the door of the second room it would have an angle. Or I could try to "warp' the installation so the hardwood changes angle a little as it crosses the kitchen. Any advice?

Just taper a couple of pieces of flooring to distribute the adjustment across a wider area.  Preferably this would be done in a doorway, as IronEagle notes.  Trim them on the female side of a tongue/grooved board, because...:

I learned this lesson the hard way:  It's worth getting a bit or blade (router?  dado?) that you can use to reconstruct the groove on the trimmed side, so your boards still fit tightly together.


Protect from 3D Printer fumes I'm planning to buy 3D Printer that can only print with ABS (Zortrax). I have a small child (3 months old) at my flat so I'm afraid that fumes can have negative impact on her health.

What should I buy or make to absorb fumes produced by 3d Printer?
Are there any solutions tailored specially for 3d Printing ?
What kind of filters should be used ?

Having done 3D printing with ABS myself, I'm familiar with this challenge. You need to exhaust the fumes--that's the long and short of it. Locate the printer near a window, open the window, and have a fan blowing air out the window every time you use the printer. Crack a window on the other side of your house for make-up air purposes.

Or print with PLA, which does not generate nasty fumes. PLA is a nice material and smells a little like popcorn when melted.


How do I fix radiators that come on at different times? We have radiators in all rooms but the ones in the bathrooms come on at different times to the rest of the house. This is particularly annoying when getting up at 6am and stepping into a freezing bathroom while the rads are on in other rooms.

Why does this happen and how can I fix it?

I think you need to balance the system;  as water will always take the easier option.

So when the system first comes on most of the water will go to the radiator with the shortest pipe run, once the thermostat rad valves on that radiator shut down, then the water will find the next easier option.

So by turning down the “lockshield“ values (the value with a cover over it) on the radiator(s) that gets hot first and turning then up on the radiator that take longer to get hot, you can force the water to go to all of  your radiators.


wire on the floor. What is it likely was used for? I bought a rehab house.
This is what I think was a laundry room because of the drier hookup.
What is this wire laying on the floor? What was it used for?

my current thoughts:

a) There are many baseboard heaters in the house - could there have been a baseboard heating panel there?
b) I cannot find a water heater in the house... it was taken. Could that have been a water heater connection?

It appears that there is a drain for the washing machine coming out of the wall, and the drier vent is right next to it, so I think it is more likely that it went to a washing machine. Since there is no plug on the wire, it may have been hardwired.

Try to trace the wire back to the panel to see if anyone labeled it. Also, make sure that the circuit is dead before touching it.


How to test appliances for energy used My energy bill is twice (at least) as high as the neighbors with similar sized homes.  Of course the hydro co. thinks their meters are perfect.  I want to find out if an appliance is consuming much more energy than it should.  Is there a way to test?

Appliances don't typically "consume more than they should", but their usage can effect their consumption.  Just take your A/C as an example, if your neighbours house is set to 75, and yours 70 then you will consume more electricity all other things equal.

Some big culprits to consider:

Space heaters
Fridge/freezer
A/C
Plasma TV's
Furnace fans
Pool pumps

There are a variety of devices that allow you to measure consumption.  "Kill a Watt" is a well known consumer device but you can also use a multimeter with a clamp for measuring current.  If you want to get fancy there are all sorts of home automation systems that can also measure consumption - a web search will give you all sorts of options.


How I connect 4 gang wifi switch? I'm well aware of the risk of replacing in wrong way switch box. I will not change the switch box by myself and I will ask an expert to do the job.
For my personal experience I would like to know how to install this particular WiFi switch in Australia.
all the lights are connected to a transformers for 12v lights
all the neutral are insulated together
the second switch of the living room doesn't exist anymore, its been removed and closed in the wall. so I will need only a one way switch for the living room.
thanks guys

Send this switch back
This is cheap Cheese junk dumped onto your shores, illegal and unsafe for its purpose, and the seller knew that and took your money nonetheless.  Send it back.
The various logos on it are the ones they stick on all their fakes. None represent a real testing lab. The fact is the switch will cause safety problems, and if anything else causes a safety problem, this switch will make things much worse.  E.G. the plastic it's made of will burn like a freak and start a fire in the walls, while emitting toxic fumes, not self-extinguish like the correct (but expensive) plastic.  100 details like that are what makes safe switches safe.
Don’t buy junk for use in AC mains. And  buying mail-order is buying junk, especially Amazon Marketplace.
Companies use direct mail-order because it allows them to sneak illegal stuff around the safety schemes that keep dangerous junk out of your retail shops. Somehow Amazon Marketplace sneaks around this too, even when it dropships from an Amazon warehouse. If you have a retail chain of brick-and-mortar stores, mail-ordering from them is usually pretty safe as they typically just offer the same selection.  They can also do curbside pickup if COVID is an issue.
A switch like it still won't work with that remote 2-way (3-way).
That switch is designed to replace four 1-way switches. Dining and kitchen are 1-way switches.  The living room switch is one-way now... However...
The "Entrance" switch is a 2-way (US: 3-way) that is powered from the far end.  In other words, this switch works just like the switch you just took out.
There is no way for a 1-way switch at this location to interact with that 2-way, except using a rather advanced technique called a relay.  If you want to smart-switch control that switch, you'll need to put a smart switch at the other end, and in this box, put whatever that other smart switch needs to interact with, probably its partner smart switch.   And again, buy quality products from local shops that have passed AU safety standards so they don't burn your house down.


Widen a hole in an existing knife block? I have a knife block and I would like to widen the hole in two of the slots to accommodate the knives I own.
Without using very expensive commercial shop tools, what is the best way to widen these two slots by about an inch each?
I have a good collection of home power tools (and I don't mind going to pick up something if needed) but I don't currently have a drill press.

There is only one possible way of doing it that I can think of without cutting the block apart on a table saw and re-gluing it. You would need a power tool called a "reciprocating saw", aka a "Sawzall" with a long wood cutting blade, long enough to get to the end of the block.

You would have to clamp the block into a woodworkers vise or clamp it down to a table, then using the longest blade you can get, run it in the slots multiple times to make them longer. The blade will likely be thinner than the slot, hence multiple passes, trying to exert pressure to one side, then the other to chew out a wider kerf. Don't expect it to look nice though, the edges will look chewed out.
Sawzalls are around $250 on line. You might find a cheaper one that will cost less, but likely only last for this one project. Tool rental yards offer them though, if you have one near you. You will have to buy the blade if you rent the saw though. The blade will cost you around $15, so this had better be important to you, compared to just buying a new block.


Material likely to contain asbestos? In basement, nailed into ceiling joists. Could be old tile / ceiling material?

It could be but you won't know for sure unless it's tested. You can have a professional company come in or you can get a home test kit that you mail in after taking a sample. The 2nd option is cheapest.


Is this a load bearing wall? The first floor of my home has a small bathroom attached to the kitchen. Bathroom has(had) a pretty standard 2 door closet. I say standard because it's the cheap kind you buy at Home Depot that's ready to go. You just frame it and nail the entire jam/doors in place.
Anyway, space is tight.. and I am changing this into an open faced storage area and moving a stackable washer/dryer into it.

I've removed the door/frame and need to know how much more I can safely remove. Is what I'm looking at just there to frame the door? I am 99.99 percent certain the rear wall of the closet is load bearing; the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the wall(s)

On the left, I'd like to take that down as close to the wall as possible.
This is the side the washer/dryer will go.

bad image of the other side.

the other side of the wall.

Probably not load bearing. Looks like roof load is on closet back wall (is that an exterior wall)? To be doubly sure, I always go to attic and look to see if there's any roof trussing sitting on top of the wall you're removing. Measure downstairs for landmarks (for reference points) when you're up there. Good luck, demo is FUN!


What is the most important aspect of plumbing door frame When installing the rough framing for a door frame, what is the most critical thing to get right?  Since lumber is rarely a perfect, uniform, straight piece of wood, there are going to be all sorts of variances.  Compromises will have to be made, so I'm wondering what would be the most important thing to get right - plumb the jack and King, make sure the king and jack are flush on the face, that the rough opening is of a certain width, etc)

There's a built-in gap in the height and width of the opening. so trimmer/king plumb parallel to the wall's length isn't crucial (to a degree). It's far more critical to get the wall itself plumb perpendicular to the rough opening. Nearly everything else can be shimmed out later, assuming reasonably accurate dimensions.

Using a level of adequate length (to account for curves in the studs--I'd consider 4' to be a minimum), check plumb on the narrow edge of the king studs. How precise you get is up to your personal standards. A centered bubble indicates plumb or level. If it's not centered, it's not plumb or level. Flip the level end-for-end or rotate it 180 degrees and compare readings to gauge level calibration.

If the wall isn't plumb and flat, you have two possible problems:

The door will swing one way or the other due to gravity.
The R.O. will have a twist, requiring some creative jamb mounting and casing installation to allow proper door operation and get it looking right.

If all the walls on the project are reasonably plumb and straight (top and bottom) there's no reason that your openings won't be as well.

You mention king and jack (trimmer) flush. That's important to keep the wall at the correct thickness. A thickened wall makes trim work more challenging, but won't typically affect the installation or operation of the door itself.


How much dry calcium hypochlorite do I need to buy? I have read that I need to buy dry calcium hypochlorite to lighten wood stain. I have 2 drawer fronts I need to lighten. Each drawer front is 8" X 36". Is a 1lb bag of the dry calcium hypochlorite enough to lighten the stain on these 2 drawers? Approximately how much water and powder will I need to mix together to bleach each drawer ONCE. What kind of container is best and safe to make the mixture in?

I was looking for the same answer.  I found two answers online.  1 tablespoon of calcium hypochlorite to 1 cup of hot water.  or a inch and a half of calcium hypochlorite on the bottom of a quart mason jar.

use glass jars.

I used about an inch and a quarter in the 1 quart mason jar cause I wanted to save some of the powder in case I needed another application.  That way I could get 2 applications from one bag. It dissolved nicely with just a little bit left on the bottom of the jar.

It was about 5 bucks for a bag.

apply to wood and let it dry overnight. rinse well with water. some say use white vinegar to neutralize it, some say use baking soda. you will need to sand it again after it drys again.

how much calcium hypochlorite do I need to bleach wood?


How can I remove 3-way switch to leave single pole switch on the lighting circuit? I would like to install a Leviton Decora Smart DW6HD in a 3-way scenario. One switch is a simple on/off while the switch being replaced is a dimming switch but do not think that matters. I tried installing the new switch but after much frustration read that the DW6HD does not support standard 3-way switch and must be used with a DD00R-L. I do not care to purchase a second smart-switch for the same room. I would like to eliminate the second switch so the 6W6HD may be wired as a single pole. I have found a number of articles explaining how to do this but my scenario seems to be a little different. At each box there are two white wires capped together, two black and a red wire connected to each switch. Thoughts on how to handle this?

Switch A to be replaced:

Two White capped together
Ground
Red to Red
Red/White to Black
Black to Black

Switch B to be removed:

Two White capped together
Ground
Red
Black
Black

New switch to replace Switch A

I was able to get it working with the following changes:

For the switch being replaced, connected the black wire to BK, the other black wire to RD, and the two white wires that were capped together are now connected to WH on the new switch.

For the switch being removed, left two white wires capped together and capped two black wires together.

The red wire is no longer used on either end (switch) and is now capped.


Should I replace my toilet's wax ring when I see moisture around the base? I am noticing moisture around the bottom of the toilet, and can tell some moisture is staining the wood floor when viewed from the basement. The bolts holding the toilet are easily tightened.

Will that help or should I just replace the wax ring?

UPDATE: When I got the toilet ready to remove, drained it, turned off water, removed as much water from drain as possible. I started to undo the bolts holding the toilet in place. I noticed they were VERY loose. Since I could hand tighten the screws, I decided to just tighten the bolts a little and see what happens. So far (3 days) no leaks. I am surprised but will monitor it for awhile I'm sure. Feeling lucky.

Before you start verify that the supply line or tank isn't leaking , dripping down the back of the bowl and flowing around the base. If that looks good I would pull up the toilet and at the least replace the wax ring. I say at the least because most times the bolts get loose for a reason. It may be a cracked flange, broken bolt, rotted floor etc.  You have no idea how long it has been leaking before you noticed it. By taking up the toilet you can examine the flange, the floor, the subfloor and the bottom of the toilet to determine the cause of the leak. This will allow repairs to be done in the earliest stage. It will be easier to repair the flange if that is the issue then to wait and have to replace a piece of rotted subfloor.


LED problem with recessed lighting My recessed lighting is set up for PAR 20 incandescent bulbs. I would like to switch to LEDs, but the ones I am finding are 1/2" longer than my PAR 20 bulbs. These protrude from the recessed light and will not allow my trim ring to seat. What's up with that?

There are LED replacement kits that include a bulb, power supply, and trim ring (if you are not wed to your existing ones). They may be less deep than the bulbs you are finding. The bulb base is separate from the rest of the unit to reduce space and ease installation.

Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of any product or source.


Should I use solid concrete or cement block for an egress window well? I am having some contractors build a window well for an egress window at my house. I have the option of doing solid concrete walls for the window well, or cement blocks (which he said he will fill with cement anyways). The concrete walls are significantly more expensive (about 1k more) so I am thinking of just going with concrete blocks, but are there significant reasons why I should choose the concrete walls instead and suck up the extra cost?

Also, do people typically put some type of drainage system in the bottom of the egress window well (sump pump or otherwise)? Is it necessary?

Properly built cement-block walls are incredibly strong.  They're mortared for vertical stability and wire stretched between layers for horizontal stability.  As long as it's thick enough to hold the weight of the ground, then that's a fine solution.  Actually, I'd find the minimum required for support and then go one step thicker.

Water will collect in this depression.  Make sure it has some kind of sufficient drainage or you could end up with water coming in through your window.  12" of gravel at the base may be enough depending on the type of soil underneath -- check your local building codes.


Will I be forced to bring fridge and laundry circuits up to code? I'm adding new lights and a few receptacles to my basement. I just discovered that my kitchen fridge and laundry washing machine are both on the basement lights circuit (14awg, 15A breaker).

I think code says that both fridge and washing machine need to be on dedicated 20A circuits.

Will this pass inspection, or will they require me running new 20A circuits for fridge and washer?

I'm the home owner doing my own electrical in Ontario Canada.  I have the whole ceiling pulled down, but don't have easy run to the panel. No breakers have tripped since moving in a year ago.

There's no general retroactivity requirement in the CEC that I can find

CEC Rule 2-022 only requires renovation of the electrical installation if some hazard is posed by the condition of the installation or as a result of alteration thereto:

  The inspection department may require such changes as may be necessary to be made to existing installations
  where, through hard usage, wear and tear, or as a result of alterations or extensions, dangerous conditions have
  developed.

However, if you're required to upgrade: Dedicated, yes.  20A, no.

The CEC (as of the 2015 edition I was able to find) does require dedicated circuits for the laundry (26-722(b)) and refrigerator (26-722(a)) receptacles; however, they are permitted to be 15A receptacles on 15A circuits.


Needing to add an outlet but confused why builder used 14-3 wire on a non-switched outlet I am trying to add an outlet behind my tv by picking off the outlet below it.  When I took off the outlet cover I noticed its in the middle of a run and the builder (house built in 2000) had used 14-3 Romex.  I'm a bit confused since its not tied to any switches.  There are two lines of Romex coming into holes in the box, so each twist is bundling three wires (two hots + pigtail) and (two neutrals + pigtail), same with the ground.
I want to run 14-2 Romex out the top of the box to my new tv outlet and I'm wondering:
A. Can I just attach the new new Romex to the sides of the duplex outlet? (Of course I'd have to bundle the grounds).
B. Or should I just get new twists (yellow? beige?) that accommodate 4 wires and attach the new Romex that way, instead of connecting to the outlet?
C. Is it even safe to have this much wire stuffed into a single box?  Thanks for any advice.
Photos below

From your pictures, I don't see the third conductor.  Is there a red wire that we aren't seeing?  From what I can see it looks like he was daisy-chaining the outlets by creating a pigtail.  Since he didn't use the second set of terminals (or the first for that matter, not the way I would have done it) You can just pull power directly off the screw terminals.  Just remember to attach your ground.  If I'm missing something, please update your post and I will as well.


Stamped concrete possibly put solvent sealer over water based sealer. What to do now? Long story short, I had a stamped concrete patio poured 2yrs ago this May. The contractor stamped it too late so some areas had some crumbling. It looked fine for the first year, but over the first winter, some areas started to break away. I was pretty busy with project last summer and didn't want to reseal the patio until I was done. I ended up finishing up most of the projects and laying sod around October. So essentially I ran out of time, to do probably one of the easier jobs.

With the cold weather approaching I paid one of the workers who tar'd my driveway to come back and spray wet look solvent sealer over the patio to fill the cracks, and protect it from the winter and do any further damage. It was 60 degrees that day. He came back the next day when I was at work and it was high 30's low 40's and did it. So I am not sure if it looks milky/cloudy because it was done in the cold weather, or because the original sealer was water based...

I would like to fix it this summer, and looking over how to remove the sealer, there are different methods for solvent vs water based. So now I am not sure what the original sealer was.

What is the best approach for stripping the sealer off?

Pictures:

What it shouod have looked like, and did after first applied:

The best way is to test each removal technique, side by side in an inconspicuous area. Then compare the results. Photograph your progress, take notes.


Identify neutral and ground, when no color code is present I have a nasty situation in my new apartment: someone (previously), when installing light switches must have randomly connected 3 wires, without giving a respect to a usual color coding.
Now I have:
red, yellow-green, white.
The problem is, when you turn on the switch, yellow-green (which is supposed to be ground), becomes hot. So in order to properly attach my lamp I need to know which of two remaining is ground and neutral.
I don't want to go with "trial and error", i.e. attach to some position and see if you protection will be blown out, then swap, as this may be a dangerous option, when (and this can happen), a neutral gets disconnected at the switch, and not the hot one, which will all lead to a happy burndown. I don't want to take chances.
What should you do?

Easiest way to double check this before wiring anything, just open up another light/receptacle box, or even the switch. See what wire coloring the installer used throughout. Hopefully he stayed consistent. You could also open the panel and see what wire color terminates where.

If this is an individual occurrence, you should be able to see at least what was used for ground in the switch that's wired to this light. Even if the whole apartment wasn't done the same, this circuit might be.

It's a good place to start, let us know what you find.


Adding ceiling joists to workshop shed I'm adding a 10x10 (100 ft sq) shed workshop to my yard. Walls are 2x4, 16"OC. Rafters are 2x6, 24"OC. I will be insulating the shed and adding climate control so I can use it year round. I'm in Ontario, Canada FWIW.

Currently the rafter ties are about 1/3 of the way up the rafters, creating an area of sloped ceiling on either side of the shed (Blue rafters/ties in pic). I'm wondering if I'm better off adding ceiling joists in order to create a flat ceiling for insulation, essentially converting the rafters to trusses by adding a horizontal span across the building, and tying it to the existing rafter with a vertical member (shown in black in the pic).Wall height is 8ft, so plenty of headroom without the sloped ceiling areas.

If I take this route, are 2x4 members sufficient?

For your new shed I would have built 2x6 stud walls @ 16''oc and the same for the roof joists. In Ontario, you will need 6'' walls to get a minimum of insulation. You can always fur out to get more depth for insulation if you have already built the walls but that won't change the strength of your walls. I'm not sure what the snow and wind loads are in your region. You should check that out. Those loads ultimately have to come down via the stud walls. Your existing roof is supported by a triangular structure rather than a roof ridge beam, which is fine.(rule of thumb; ties no higher than 1/3 the height). 2x4's should be fine to build up your 'truss', the bottom chord will be in tension as will be the vertical tie to the ridge beam as any deflection of the bottom chord due to the weight of finishes and insulation will pull on that tie. Normally, to create a truss, one would add diagonals from the bottom of your vertical tie to the centre of the roof joists, but if you tie your new structure well to the existing horizontal roof ties 1/3 the way up, the whole assembly should be sufficient.


How do I get out the remnants of a rake handle using a drill? A few days ago, my wooden rake handle broke during use, so I grumbled about it, went to the hardware store a few days later, bought a new handle, and set about installing it.
Unfortunately, I can't seem to get to even get started because the remnants of the old handle are still wedged firmly in place. I tried to check a few Youtube videos on this, but they're either focused on repairing the broken handle or skip right over how to get out the remnants.
The second video I linked mentioned that I might need to use a chisel or a drill to get out the remnants, but didn't provide any details on how to do so and more or less suggest it was going to be a big pain in the neck.
For reference, these are relevant details about the rake:

Plastic frame;
Cause of the brake was probably too much exposure, so the portion that was outside was easy to break, but what's inside the frame is really wedged in there;
I've been digging at it with a couple screwdrivers and pulling pieces using my pliers, but haven't had a means to really pull out massive pieces.

I have been considering drilling, but I don't want to mess up my bits nor the frame. Specific concerns about drilling I have are heat related as well as not being able to tell when I'm hitting wood versus plastic. Can anyone provide some clarifying guidance on if this is a good idea or issues that might come up?
Below are some pictures for reference, note that I've already removed the screw that typically holds it in place:

Drill a series of holes with a 3/16" or 1/4" drill bit.
Use a flat blade screw driver to pry and work and brake up  the wood.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the pieces out.


How to build a sinkhole simulation? I'm doing a science project on sink holes and I don't have an idea on how to build one. I want to test different methods of creating a sinkhole.

I would use sand and experiment with different size openings under different thicknesses of the sand. If you fill a small container with a couple inches of sand and then open a hole on the bottom of the container it should simulate a sink hole.

Start with a funnel full of sand and see if it flows good when you take your finger off the end of it. Maybe try salt or sugar for their flow characteristics.

Good luck with your project!


How can I replace this unusual kitchen sink drain pipe? I'm trying to replace a broken 1-1/2 inch L-shaped brass pipe under my kitchen sink, as in this picture:

At one end, it's connected to the sink drain, which if I'm understanding the terminology correctly means this would be called a tailpiece. At the very least, it has the same connection on the end as a tailpiece.

At the other end, it has what I believe is called a slip joint - the pipe goes an inch or two into the pipe it connects to.

When I search for "tailpiece" on any plumbing supplies site, I find pipes that have the right connector, but only straight ones. When I search for elbow pipes, I can't find any pipe with the right connections on each end: tailpipe-type connection at one end, and a slip joint connection at the other.

Even if I found one that was close, there doesn't seem to be any room to add a vertical slip joint, so does that mean I'll need to find a pipe that's exactly the right length to begin with?

very easy fix,    just cut the pip from the water under kitchen sink, start fresh.
remove all drains,
you need:  1 two part waste      1 trap kit   1 no-hup 1"1/2 to 1"1/2 tuppler and ask for an under sink AC adopter to connect the hose to your garbage disposal to.

very easy, but maybe YouTube might have some photo to show you.
also i advise you to use brass parts, and make sure you have a copper cutter big enough to cut pipes to size, but you will new a saw to cut drain under sink.

i hope this helps :)


Okay to bend plastic pipe/conduit with some tension to fit the trench? If the trench for ABS drain pipe and PVC conduit isn't perfect, can I bend the pipe so its offset a couple of feet over about 25 feet??  Its held in place by the trench walls but under some tension.  Once its buried it won't move, but is there any problem with doing that? Also slightly 'fudging' the hub connections so its about 1 or 2 degrees from straight?

Both are quite flexible in smaller diameters, so if it doesn't take significant effort to bend it, I think you'll be ok.

I would NOT, however, fudge the connections unless you want a failure down the road. Get fittings that match the route you need to take or dig the trench wider.


Can I connect eight LED strip lights to the same power source? I want to run led strip lights around my son's bedroom. I have narrowed my choice down to 3528 rgb and 3528 white. I will need a bout 4 strips in each color. My question is can I run these from the same power source?  My idea is .... if it's possible .... to get a splitter with 2 connectors and run the rgb one way and white the other and have them run side by side.

  If this is possible what size power source do you recommend and are there  any other items I need to purchase?

The answer really depends on the product have or want to use.
Most good LED RGB-W systems are low votage and subject to specific wiring codes.( Check those of your state and local codes.

5Amps per channel is typical and may require more sophisticated wiring techniques.

Additionally, W in RGB-W is not gerenally bright enough for proper illumination. I assume you have determined this given your product descriptions.
You may find that the wiring is best concealed in a cove.


How to Remove Cpvc from copper shower valve? I discovered a slow leak in the house I purchased which was causing all sorts of moisture related issues. (pretty sure the previous owners knew about it cause they had just installed new carpet and just happened to leave a water key, but that's another story...)

After cutting open some access to the shower valve, I quickly discovered the source of the leak was where the male Cpvc adapter fit into what appears to be a female copper adapter that has been sweated to the shower valve.

Upon trying to remove the existing cpvc adapter, it snapped and began deteriorating on me, now I am stuck with a valve that has the threading of the pvc adapter still in the copper adapter with no obvious way to remove it to replace it with another.

(it was difficult to capture a picture of the plastic inside the copper adapter as there is a wall stud the runs parallel to the piping, but it is the right hand side of the valve above with nothing attached to it.)

What is the best course of action to resolve this? Is it possible to find a way to destroy/remove the remaining plastic without messing up the copper threads? Or will it be necessary to remove the entire shower assembly and go from there by replacing the metal adapter or possibly the whole assembly if it is unfeasible to "unsweat" and replace the copper adapter?

Generically, an extractor of the appropriate size.

"Pipe thread extractor" or "internal pipe wrench" yield results in a search.


What is the rated power of American central air-conditioning control circuit? I want to know what is the rated power that American central air-conditioning 24V control circuit can supply, which is also the power supply for Nest.
Nest gets its power from the 24V control transformer, and converts it to DC. But what is the current value a device can draw from this 24V?
Thanks!

More:
I care more about the 24VAC HVAC system's capability of its power supply.
E.g. if I design a similliar device like Nest, but my device consumes more power, whether could I still connect it to this 24VAC line?

Now it is clear of one thing, 24V will provide power for both the control relays/heating/cooling parts and Nest. So how much power could Nest get? This is my key question.

Many systems have a single transformer located in the furnace / fan coil unit.  That transformer should be stamped with a "VA" rating.  Typical sizes range around 40VA to 75VA.

Roughly speaking, for electronic loads one should assume a power factor of about 85% (electronic control board, nest thermostat, etc).

The total continuous current a 24 VAC control transformer can supply in a residential system is given by:

I = (VA Rating) x (Power Factor) / (Secondary Voltage)

Or in the case of a 40VA transformer:

I = (40 VA) x (0.85) / (24 V)

I = 1.4 amps

This amount includes the controls installed in the system, and there may not be much to spare for additional loads.  When in doubt, increase the VA rating of the transformer to allow for the additional load.

Many electronic loads are not continuous and in those applications a peak current of 30% - 50% higher may be acceptable as long as the sustained load does not exceed the rating.

More:

Q:  "how much power could Nest get [from the HVAC transformer]?"

A:  It varies wildly and in my thinking this is a secondary design consideration.  The 18 gauge thermostat wire has a resistance of about 0.6ohms/100ft, so roughly 3 amps is the maximum current that can be drawn before the supply voltage drops more than 10%.  Deduct several hundred mA for contactor loads, and the thermostat could use perhaps 2.5 amps, not accounting for the system transformer size.  If the thermostat is a really great product, people will upgrade their system transformers to install it. To improve market adoption, later revisions could be lower power units that would not require a system transformer upgrade.  In the case of the Nest, the manufacturer resorted to using what looks like a LiPo battery.  LiPo batteries are expen$ive, but the marketing guys must have felt it was worth it.


Toilet flushes slowly, water comes all the way up, then water goes low, shower drains slow, but sink is fine When flushing my toilet the water comes all the way to the rim, sometimes it sits then drains slowly, sometimes I have to plunger it or sometimes it flushes ok but then the water goes way down to the siphon part of the toilet. I also have a shower in same bathroom that has started backing up and then slowly drains out. But the sink in same bathroom drains fine but all drains gurgle. I have a septic system 1500 gal tank emptied in 2016 had five people living here for 2 1/2 years only two now for a year. Looked in my septic tank and when toilet flushed or ran water I could barely hear a trickle coming from house. Stack, clog or main pipe clog?

I would be running a snake down the main line from the toilet, depending on the plumbing the sink could be downstream from the plug. Normally the toilet location is where the vent connects so if it backs up the vent line can be flooded . Running from the toilet is usually the easiest access and only cost a wax seal.  A plunger knocking it loose sounds like a better case for a big snake so you can pull the clog out instead of have it move it around.


How do I install concrete blocks to support deck stairs? I just had a deck constructed and it failed inspection, partly because of  missing concrete blocks where the steps meet the ground (see also my related question Deck handrail bracket).  How would I go about installing that without removing the steps themselves?

Edits Here is a picture:

This might be just a false alarm.  We have scraped the dirt underneath the corners of the stairs and we feel something hard and smooth like a concrete block.  So it could be OK after all.

( Note: I see your comment that this is no longer an issue, but since the question is still opened and unanswered, I'll put something down here to get it off of our list and possibly help someone else with a similar issue. )

First things first, Tester is right, don't pay the contractor until you get the permit, and force them to fix their mistakes at their own cost (regardless of whether you paid them or not).

Next, I'm going to suggest ignoring the premise of the question and you remove the stairs to fix this. Depending on how it's attached (I've only done interior stairs where ground movement wouldn't be an issue) you may be able to detach it from the deck, remove any bolts holding it to the supports, and take it out in one piece. Before removing the stairs, make sure to mark the location for the center of your cement pours using stakes about 4' away in two directions (one to the side, and one straight out to the yard, so that with a couple tape measures you can locate the exact spot).

For the hole, make it deep enough to get below the frost line in your location. Fill the bottom with gravel and pour your cement. I like the idea of metal brackets in the cement that keep the wood out of contact with the ground, rather than embedding the post in the cement itself, but only if you have a vertical load and no shear or twisting forces (e.g. I wouldn't use that for a fence). Make sure the bracket is above ground (my neighbor buried his and has all kinds of moisture issues). If you do place the wood support in the concrete, then at least make sure the concrete comes above ground level and slopes away from the wood on all sides.

Finally, reinstall your stairs. Hopefully you measured twice so that all you need to do is cut your supports to the right height and maybe drill some new holes for the bolts.


Can the dryer's heating element be saved? I just read why you shouldn't mend a dryer's heating element or coil.
What if the break just happens to be be two or three inches at the very end, or even just 1 inch from the end; can you stretch it out and complete the circuit?

It's for a Whirlpool Dryer.

It doesn't matter where the break is. You cannot repair the element without shortening it, which will reduce its resistance, causing it to burn hotter than it is designed to do. If you are very lucky it will just burn out again right away before setting your clothes on fire.

Of course the appliance designer allowed some safety margin in the specs, because manufacturing tolerances vary, and parts can fail after installation. So you would think you could get away with a little fudging of the heater element length. But what you cannot know is how close your dryer was to immolating itself before you started messing with it.


Invert electric motor rotation I got this Bergin AC motor which was from a pool pump, but now I want to use it to power a saw.

For this I need to invert its rotation direction. How can I do that by just switching wires?

The four cables at the top just go to the power switch. Unfortunately the metal housing can not be opnened.

Single phase, permanent-split-capacitor (capacitor run) motors, like your unit, are normally reversed by switching the roles of the start and run windings.  Unfortunately, with the way your unit is wired, it is not possible to make the necessary wiring changes without completely disassembling the motor -- you would have to disconnect the two red wires from each other, then connect the red wire from inside the motor to the terminal that now has the tan wire from the motor on it while connecting the red wire from the capacitor and the tan wire from the motor together, then taking them to where the red wire from the motor now leads.

So, you'll have to head down to a shop that sells motors (industrial-supply places will have them, guaranteed) and get a new motor to power your saw with; either that, or find a way to make your saw work with a motor that rotates the opposite direction from the original.


Rewiring light fixture and switch to bring neutral line to the switch: one 12/3 switch-leg vs two 12/2 wire to bring power to switch? I'm looking at rewiring a ceiling-mounted light fixture (a basic light bulb mount) and the accompanying switch in my utility room. It's in a very accessible part of my attic, and I'd like to do it in part because it's old wiring and also because I'm installing smart switches which need neutrals at the switch box.
For the record, I know that I can install smart switches that don't need neutrals, like Lutron Caseta, but I also just want the wiring to be updated and it's fairly accessible, in a wall with no insulation. So I figure this is a good place to experiment with a fairly simply DIY project. There are other reasons with smart switches why you want a neutral switch, particularly with Zigbee switches where switches that are on main power can act as repeaters, strengthening the wireless mesh network.
In any case, currently the light fixture has the circuit's power run to the fixture directly and then a switch leg runs down the wall to the switch, with old NM 12/2 wire (ungrounded), bringing two conductive lines to a single-pole switch.
Here's a diagram as it currently stands:

I see two ways to potentially rewire the switch:

The first and simplest way is to continue to use the same single switch leg schematic, but instead of fishing down 12/2 wire (as there currently is), I'd fish down 12/3 wire, to bring down a line and load powering the light fixture, and also connect the neutral at the light fixture into the white wire in the 12/3 which would then terminate a neutral line at the switch.

A second, more complex way would be to rewire the light fixture entirely so that the circuit power runs first into the switch (using 12/2 wire), and then I'd run another 12/2 up to the light fixture. So I'd have to fish down two power lines from the attic (the main power and then back up to the light). Here's what it would then look like:

What's the ideal way to wire a switch and fixture given this kind of situation? Does it really matter if power runs to the switch first and then to the light fixture, or vice-versa?

I think 1 is better by far.
You mention 12/2 in the text, but the diagram shows 14/2 for the proposed option 2. What is the breaker on this circuit? Will you replace the existing switch box with an old work? The switch loop might be stapled.