Breaker, wire and disconnect size for an air conditioner I need help with the wiring of an AC unit.  4 different Electrical contractors / electricians are suggesting 4 different Breaker, Disconnect and wire sizes.

Name Plate info:
Min. 16.7 circuit amps
Max fuse 25 amps
Max. circuit Breaker 25 amps
Short circuit current: 5kA rms. symmetrical, 230V

Edit: I see you have called a professional. My apologies for misreading your question.

It is not unheard of to have different contractors tell you different size wires- some will go for the minimum, some for future proofing. The cost difference between 10 gauge and 12 gauge is minimal, especially for short runs (other than being more difficult to bend). Different contractors may also know what the inspectors like to see- so if they're expecting to see a 10 gauge wire (30A), and the contractor installs 12 gauge (20A), they'll get burned.

With that said, absolute minimum is a 12gaug or 12/2 (so Hot-Hot Ground) However that assumes everything is 220V, and if the system has 110V anywhere then you might need a neutral. I don't know this particular unit, but a photo of the wiring diagram in the manual will help.

The run from my AC is just under 10'. It should be protected in conduit outside the house, run to a disconnect box (fused at 30A), and from there via flex into the compressor.

The cost of the wiring is negligible. The cost difference of the breakers should be 10$, maybe 20$ with markup. The labor is the expensive part.

Assuming they are running a new lineset these costs should be the same. The manufacturer says the size of the copper lines, and copper is copper. If they say 20' of 3/8 you can look up the base price of that- and everyone should be scaled by the same amount (Do NOT think you're going to get copper lineset at store prices, not going to happen).

Overall a bit of future proofing should be useful, but without more details- distance, quotes, environment (do you need a new pad, etc), and what after-the-install service is, prices can vary.

There are websites you can go to to get an estimate as to what things cost in your community. They're distributions, obviously, but it may help.

You probably do not want the cheapest bid, especially if it's by a margin. Calculate the median, average, and std. deviation of the prices. Always a good metric...

You should call a professional.

No, really.

4 individual contactors? Typically there's a compressor and fan, and then an 24v AC that turns them on.

You need the manual which will tell you the minimum sizes, wires, and whatnot, and you'll also need to know local code for what they need to be run to and any external or internal disconnects you have to provide for service.

Do this wrong and you'll be lucky to end up in the hospital.


How does one know if a well pump is "Short Cycling" or pressure tank is water logged? Is there any calculation that can be performed to estimate the amount of water a well water pressure tank should output between pump cycles?  E.g.- I have a 40 gallon pressure tank (non bladder) with a pump switch set to 40psi on, 60psi off.  I suspected the tank was water logged, as when taking a shower, the pump would kick in every 15-20 seconds, which seemed short.  I ended up draining it, pressurizing the empty tank to 35 psi, then having the pump refill it, and now I am getting 2-3 minutes between pump cycles, so obviously recharging the tank was helpful.

This worked out great, but was more of a gut feeling.  Is there any calculation to see if a pressure tank has too little air?  (i.e.- something like my system should output XX gallons between pump cycles).

At 2.5 GPM, your 2-3 minutes of shower time between cycles is using between 5 and 7.5 gallons.  If your tank starts at 60psi and 7.5 gallons is enough to bring it down to 40psi, that means you're starting out with 15 gallons of air in your 40 gallon tank, and ending the 3-minute cycle with 22.5 gallons of air.  I calculated this using Boyle's law, or P1 * V1 = P2 * V2.  And of course these numbers would be different if your shower head is higher-flow and your 3 minutes of showering used more than 7.5 gallons.

I believe to get the most output from your tank, you want it to be nearly empty of water when the pump is set to come on.  That means draining and charging it to just below the pump setting, as you did.  If you wanted to get a little more cycle time you could probably even go as high as 38 psi.  Note that with a bladderless tank, you're going to need to recharge periodically as the air in your tank is gradually absorbed by the water.

For what it's worth I think 2-3 minutes is well within your pump's design cycle time.  15-20 seconds was way too short and by noticing it and fixing it you've probably saved yourself an expensive pump replacement.


Ways to reduce noise in a home near railroad tracks? My soon-to-be home is approximately 75 to 100 feet away from a semi-busy railroad track with trains that carry coal and other cargo. They do not travel very fast but the rumble/horn is still an issue.

Are there ways to help absorb the noise from the tracks that can be done indoors? Outdoors?

I lived about the same distance (maybe a bit more) from train tracks for several years.  Most of the trains were commuter trains, with two freight trains daily mixed in.  The biggest thing to remember is that you're going to tune them out to a large degree as commented above.  The advantage with the mostly commuter train composition of traffic was that they stopped at about 1:00am until 5:30am.

Double paned windows and window coverings were the only physical changes that made a difference.  The windows also helped with heating/cooling and energy savings.


Mower barely runs and has blue exhaust I have a Cub Cadet 1529 which I recently maintained in several different ways.

I changed the oil and filter a few weeks ago. I put 5W-30 in but had a really hard time telling if/when it was full because someone really needs to invent a better way to see oil level than a stupid inaccurate dipstick. I ended up removing some oil after I saw it leaking. I still can't tell if it's too full or not. I mowed at least once (1/2 acre) (maybe twice) without any major issues other than some oil leaking while sitting in the garage. The oil level seems like it's FULL or possibly overfilled but as far as I can tell, it's definitely not LOW.
I replaced the PTO belt (it was old and worn out and finally broke). I have mowed about 1/4 acre with it without any major issues.
I replaced the air filter. I can't possibly imagine how this would have caused any issues.

Today when I went to haul some stuff around my yard, I noticed the engine wasn't running well, as soon as I started it up. I could only go about half-throttle before it stopped speeding up. Blue smoke was coming out consistently. The choke sounded like it was going to kill the engine. I tried driving it around a little bit to see if the slight angle was causing a problem but it didn't get any better. I turned it around and drove it back into the shed.

I have a feeling it has a blown head gasket which I will have to figure out how to fix, I suppose... is that the most likely issue? How hard is this to change myself?

Blue smoke means it's burning oil.

This could be from you overfilling the crankcase but if it is an older engine it may have been burning a little oil before the oil was added.

The key here is, was it running okay after the oil change? If the problem started afterwards it then that is the likely cause.

Most small engines like that don't have an oil pump and would have no way to get oil past the head gasket. Even automobile engines don't normally suck oil into the cylinders past the head gasket. It is more likely the piston rings and valve seals are worn so badly that they are allowing oil to pass into the cylinder. Especially if it is overfilled. Watch the first part of this video about splash lubrication. Most older lawn mowers would use this method.

Your first step should be to verify that the oil is NOT overfilled. It could be forcing it past the valves into the cylinder. Your tractor data says it takes 1.8 quarts. If you put more than that in it, then you overfilled it. Your problem could be fixed with a proper level of oil in the crankcase.

Good luck!


Is there a way to install a fan switch for a ceiling fan that doesn't have a fan wire? Just a general question, as I was installing our new ceiling fan last night. From the ceiling, there is a white wire and a black wire (and the bare copper). I attached the two green/white wires to the bare copper, the white to white, and the black to my blue and black wires coming from the fan. This works fine, but I was really hoping to have a switch for the fan and another for the light.

Is there a way to go about this without redoing the entire wiring?

There are remote modules you can purchase to control the light/fan separately.  Most remote modules are wireless but there are some hardwired remote modules.  I've used both but my preference is to spend the 15 dollars more and get the hardwired control.  One that I've used and liked is this one from Lutron Maestro.  It will use the single hot wire to control both the fan and light using a control module you install at the base of the fan.


Should threaded pipe be torqued to spec? Most, if not all threaded automotive fasteners have specified torque, which is ensured by using torque wrenches. But how about threaded pipe, galvanized steel for water or black pipe for gas, especially the latter? Should it be torqued to spec using something like a torque version of a pipe wrench, to ensure a proper joint?

Torquing a bolted joint serves a very specific purpose - to set the clamping force exerted by the bolt on the joint.  By applying some specific torque to a bolt with a certain thread pitch, the effect is to stretch the bolt by a specific amount.  The bolt then acts like a spring, clamping the joint together.  Overtightening the bolt applies too much clamping force and can actually deform the joint.  Undertightening means the joint can't take as much force before it "floats" and fails.

Threaded piping is completely different.  In this case, the threads aren't used to apply force to a joint, the threads are the joint.  Their primary purposes are to keep the pipes from separating under pressure, and to seal the cavity inside from the outside.  For strength, tightness is of little importance.  For sealing, tightness matters, but no matter how tight, the pipes will never seal without a soft interface material like dope or tape.  Therefore, thread pipes need to be tightened until they seal under pressure, and no more.


Should a vent cap be installed under all the layers of shingles, or just the top most layer? When installing a roof cap on a roof where there are three layers of shingles, do i trim away just the first layer of shingles or should i trim away all three layers to slide the cap underneath.

First off, three layers of shingles indicates that you need to redo the roof completely soon.  You're at your max, and frankly I think even two layers is a sign of lazy roofers.

That said, vent caps are most effective when installed so that the water runs onto them from the upper shingles and then back ONTO the lower shingles, as such:

So, you should definitely put the cap under ALL layers of shingles above, and over ALL layers of shingles below.


How do I determine which wax ring to use under my toilet? Other questions almost answer this question.

What is the purpose of the flange on the wax ring? I can purchase a ring with or without the flange.

How do I know whether to get the standard ring or the thick ring? I really don't like the idea of trial and error.

1) A leak may not show up until just after I've concluded that there are no leaks.

2) the marginal increase in price for the thicker ring is so small as to make the cost of my time the overwhelming factor (is it safe to always use the thick ring?)

How tall the ring is depends on how close the toilet's outlet horn is to the flange. Under ideal conditions, the standard ring is just a bit too tall so that it compresses just enough to form a good seal without squeezing out into the drainage path and causing an obstruction.

Toilets with more than normal spacing will need a taller ring to achieve a proper seal. But if you use a tall ring without the flange on a properly spaced toilet installation, excess wax will be squeezed into the drainage path, causing an undesirable obstruction. This is why double height rings are often sold with flanges, the flange keeps the wax out of the drainage path.

But the flange itself is a bit smaller than the outlet pipe, so it forms a bit of an obstruction itself. Thus, it's not something you want to use unless there's a good chance you'll need it.

You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base. Adjust this measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor. The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 it's initial height once installed. If it will compress less, you need a taller ring. If it will compress more, consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage path.


2 pole thermostat to 3 wires from wall I have a 2-pole thermostat that I want to install to replace the old mercury thermostat.  From the wall there is a green, white, and red wire.  The thermostat has 2 black and two red. If you cannot see the labels in the picture below, the wires from the new thermostat are labeled as:
L1  L2
T1  T2
I understand if I have to use this thermostat as a single pole (if I cannot use it as a 2-pole).  I know the green is ground.  It looks as though the red goes to the power, and the white goes to the heater.  My question is, what wires do I attach to the wall wires?
Thanks.

Your thermostat provides nowhere to attach ground, so you won't be attaching it to anything, unless the junction box is metal, in which case it must be attached to the metal box.
The white wire is being used as a hot, and needs to be re-marked by wrapping it with black tape.
NEC 110.3(B) says you must install the item according to its labeling and instructions.  That means you must read them :)
You have the heater version of a "switch loop" and it can only support 1-pole thermostats.  That's not necessarily failure.  However, each 2-pole thermostat treats that situation differently.  Some have instructions on how to wire it. (use one pole? wire both in series? IDK, check the instructions).   Others say not to do it. Others can't do it, e.g. almost any thermostat with onboard smarts that needs power.


Prime joint compound before latex paint? I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered.  The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.

As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.

Should I be spray priming?   What do others do about this issue?

A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.


What are disadvantages of wood floor covering in shower? I love the idea of the luxurious texture of wood flooring in a shower. Does this add significant maintenance/cleaning concerns to the shower?

There are woods used in wet environments, mostly those that are fairly impervious to rot - teak, cedar, redwood, mahogony (less so).

Untreated: Sometimes cedar, redwood and teak are left natural. In almost all these cases, they are not exposed to prolonged soaking.  Even in saunas they are misted and then dried, not soaked the way a shower soaks. On Boats they get spashed, they dry.  When they are left untreated, the wood weathers, loses its color and eventually becomes somewhat rough. Cedar and redwood are fairly soft, and on a floor will wear out, probably quickly. Teak will last longer but will roughen up and wear out eventually. Also untreated wood tends to hold water and is more prone to developing mold or organic growths, such as bacteria, especially in a shower that is not exposed to sunlight.

Treated: These woods can be finished with a penetrating sealer or a hard marine finish, like spar varnish or the harder polyurethanes, or even an epoxy finish. Even then, these finishes need to be redone often, sometimes every year, depending on the amount of soaking and other wear.

Finished or sealed Wood can be used in bathrooms where there is just an occasional spash or where the wet is quickly mopped up. I have hard pine floors finished with several coats of poly in my bathroom that works fine. My shower is a porcelain tub.

On the whole, it would be very questionable to put wood in a shower floor.

Disclaimer: Recently, exotic hardwoods have come into widespread use in the US for porches and decks. Ipe, cumaru, and other South American hardwoods can handle repeated wettings without significant deterioration except fading. They often need special tools for cutting and drilling, since they are very hard. But note that, even in deck use, the soaking is probably not as complete and frequent as a shower. These woods can be treated with special oil to prolong life and improve water handling.


How can I locate the doorbell transformer? my doorbell stopped working and I tested it with a multimeter and found no current to the box. How do I locate the transformer to replace it?

Typically, the doorbell transformer will be on or near the main service panel.

This is usually, done to save money on wire. If the transformer is mounted to the service panel, you'll only need about a foot or two of 14/2 cable to connect it (which can usually be reclaimed from scrap).  The rest of the wiring from that point on will be cheaper low voltage cable, since doorbells typically run on 24V circuits.


Need help with electrical wiring for lights I disconnected my basement light wire by accident. In my spare room upstairs I had no light. I had this wall switch which controlled the receptacle instead. I decided to install a ceiling light using the same switch. I removed the receptacle and cut the wire not realizing that the wire was attached to the basement wire as well. Source wire was coming down from the ceiling which was attached to the basement wire as well as the receptacle. I pulled the source wire back up from the ceiling and installed the light using the switch loop configuration down below. Spare room light works great.

Now I have the basement wire sticking out of the receptacle hole. Below are the pictures. My question is how do I attach the basement light wire back to the same source? Should I install a junction box in the ceiling and throw a wire from the ceiling to extend the current basement wire?

Not sure you need a junction box at the light. What’s weird is it sounds like the switch controlled a receptacle and light in two different rooms on different floors? Are you wanting that switch to still control the basement light or are you wanting a different switch? Have you tried connecting the outlet back to see if it gets power?


What are some tips for installing a roof cap? I am adding bathroom exhaust fans. The roof caps I have attach directly to the duct (this is not the model I have, but it clearly shows how the duct attaches):

I had a lot of trouble trying to get the flashing slid up beneath the shingles with the duct attached - in fact, at this moment the cap isn't attached to any duct while I come up with a game plan. The main trouble is the length of the duct. This is exaggerated but shows the problem:

Does anyone have any tips or advice on how to do this? It's worth mentioning that I am trying to do this myself, though I am aware that it's normally a two-person job. I can't see how my main problem of not being able to get the flashing slid up between the shingles would be helped with another person, but - I'm listening!

As Shirlock says, cut the duct off of the cap, install the cap, and reattach the duct using a 6" scrap piece of metal ducting. Tape any joints with the HVAC foil tape.

Another alternative, remove a bunch of shingles, install the cap and flashing straight in, and then install some new shingles over the flashing.


Why would there be a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp appliance? I have an old conveyor dryer, which my office purchased used some time ago, just sitting in storage. The dryer is for silk screen t-shirts and has a large heating element and a variable speed conveyor that runs underneath, rather like a small pizza oven. I'm interested in getting it running, but I'm perplexed about the plug and circuit requirements.

The panel on the side of the dryer indicates that the full load amp is 30 amps. So why would the plug be a NEMA 14-50R, which handles 50 amps?

All the 220 outlets on the building have 30 amp breakers and run 10 gauge wire. Will I need to have someone install new breakers and run 8 gauge just for this dryer even though it says it won't pull more than 30 amps?

30 amps is where a 30 amp breaker should cut off, and to avoid that, you should only use 80% of the breaker's capacity. So for a 30 amp breaker, you shouldn't be using more than 24 amps. Using a 50 amp breaker and a dedicated outlet ensures that you don't exceed the capacity of the circuit with that appliance.


Light flickers a bit when I turn on an hand blender. What can be the case? The lights over my stove flickers when I use an hand blender.
The power for the hand blender come in a different circuit from the switch board.

The light as far as I know is led.

What can be happening? how can I solve it?

Likely, the LED power supply picks up some of the electrical noise (radio frequency interference or RFI) generated by the blender motor, and it "tricks" the regulator in the supply to cause the flicker.

If the flicker is not annoying, then there is no reason to do anything, but you can add RFI filtering to the blender and/or the LED lamp. The filter can be a simple plug adapter, or perhaps winding wires around ferrite beads. (The links are given to show sample devices, not necessarily recommendations.) Depending on proximity, frequency etc., both might be needed.


Regarding GFCI outlets When a GFCI outlet trips, does it open both the hot and the neutral, or only the hot?  An outlet beyond the GFCI outlet has an open neutral and I wonder if that is normal when a GFCI trips?

The neutral in a GFCI may not open when it trips. So if you are reading an open neutral, that could very well be part of the reason it tripped.


what kind of breaker for subpanel? What kind of breaker do I have to use for a sub panel of 125 amps? May I use a 125 amp breaker (same amp rating as the sub panel) from main panel to feed the sub panel?

The breaker size is decided by the wire connecting the panels.  For instance if the wire is 8 AWG, the breaker will be 40A.  Regardless of the wire size, the breaker cannot exceed 125A, presuming that is the rating of the panel.

As always, make sure you are buying a subpanel that is large enough.  It is very common for someone to save $40 on the panel, only to later have to spend a lot more than $40 for twin breakers and other work... because they got a panel that left them too little room for expansion.  Panel space is cheap.

It is totally fine to have a subpanel whose "main breaker" is larger than the breaker in the main panel serving it.  For instance I have a 60A circuit serving a too-small 4-space subpanel.  I replace that with a 42-space subpanel with a 225A main breaker.  That is fine.  The big main simply serves as a shutoff switch. (And I made out because the bundle came with 22 ”bonus breakers" which I use elsewhere.)


Connecting Carrier Infinity furnace to Aprilaire humidfier I wish to replace my Carrier humidifier with an Aprilaire 700. I have 3 questions related to properly connecting my Carrier Infinity 96 furnace's HUM terminal to Aprilaire 700 (24 VAC line):

1) I see only one HUM terminal on my Carrier Infinity 96 furnace circuit-board. I remember seeing a response to a question on "Home Improvement" that said that there should be 2 HUM terminals.  Given my situation (one HUM), where should the other line to complete the circuit from the transformer be connected to complete the circuit? Should I connect it to the black/common terminal?

2) One comment in "Home Improvement" said "When the furnace is running in heat mode, you should measure ~120 volts...." So, does it mean that the HUM terminal drops to near zero volts when the heat is off? i.e. does HUM line function as a relay-switch or should I insert a relay between my Carrier furnace and Aprilaire humidifier?

3) What is the VAC on the black/common terminal in Carrier Infinity 96? If I connect the HUM terminal (120 Volts) to the black/common terminal (24 VAC as I read somewhere on the internet), would it burn my circuit board since the black/common line is really not a grounded line but one carrying 24 VAC.

Could someone help me please so that I don't mess up?

Thanks.

The simplest way to hook up is to the W terminal and the C terminal. Like this.

The HUM terminal may be 120v or 24v if it's next to the low voltage connections (R C W G Y not necessarily exactly like this) then it will be 24v ALWAYS check with a volt meter. If HUM is off by itself or next to E. A. C. terminal then it's 120v. Either way it will only be live when the burner and the fan are on


How often should I change the oil in my lawn mower I have just purchased a new lawn mower and am wondering about the maintenance.  I'm not very good at mechanical maintenance and without a small engine shop in my local home town I'm wondering what I can get away with.  The owners manual says to change the oil after the first five hours of use, but is this really required?  Will my new lawn mower stop operating of I don't do this first 5 hour oil change?

It (probably) won't suddenly stop and refuse to start again after 5 hours of use, but it's a good idea to follow the recommended cycle: the parts in new engines often haven't been milled perfectly smooth, so as your new engine turns those rough bits get knocked off or cut tracks for themselves, leaving little pieces of metal in the oil.  Unless you get rid of them by changing the oil, they can cause excessive wear and tear on the engine.

Depending on your lawnmower, you'll either be able to drain oil out of the bottom, or tip the mower over and drain it out the top from the same hole you pour the fresh oil into (the worst part of this is lifting and tilting the mower over the catcher pan, but it's a lot easier if you have someone to help).


Laser printer on same circuit interferes with lights and LCD monitors I have a newly built 110V 20A basement office wired with 12/2 with eight T8 bulbs overhead, 850 watt PC, three LED monitors and a big Canon MF8380Cdw laser printer on the same aforementioned 20 amp circuit.  Whenever the printer comes out of power saving, the lights all flicker and one or two monitors power off and back on trigger my PC to consolidate all of my windows on one monitor.

I am planning to add some additional home theater equipment to the office but I'm concerned by the laser printer interrupting it or worse, damaging it.

Is there any solutions to mitigate the power draw of the printer without adding another circuit or expensive voltage conditioning equipment?

Update 2:

Power box is #1, then to light switch on to first outlet at #2, printer is at #3 and computer equipment is at #4.  Wire from box to first outlet is approximately 32'  Room is 18' x 11'.

Update 1:
A lot of answers are warning against a UPS on the printer.  I do not utilize a UPS at all at the moment.  And when I do purchase one, I do not plan to feed the laser printer from it for obvious reasons.  My power is otherwise very stable from a new square D box (in 2002-ish) and the meter and the lines feeding my house have been recently updated by the power company.

I've read in the reviews of this Automatic Voltage Regulator that people have used it for their laser printer to solve the brown outs.  This would be cheaper than rewiring the office but obviously not solve for the lights.  And this is a 10A device.

Per the pg17 of MF8380Cdw Printer Manual, the power supply requirements are
120 to 127 V, 60 Hz, 1,200 W or less

Since you've posted a lot more info, I'm editing my answer to suit your need and those who might have a similar issue in the future.

TLDR: You have good electrical, you just overloaded it.  It happens.

The crux of the problem is you were overloading a single branch circuit.  You've got continuous loads of 6-10 amps (computer), three 0.5-1 amp (A) monitors, at least 2A of lighting, so 9.5-15A.  So far, within the range of a single 20A branch circuit.

The printer, however, pushed your good wiring past design limits. The printer claims 10A draw while underway, which means drawing up to 25A on a 20A circuit.  But fusers often have a fraction-of-a-second inrush current of 20A or more.  This guaranteed a brownout on any single 20A circuit, and risked a breaker trip.

When you revised your question, you showed us pictures and diagram of the site.  There's an outlet right next to the service panel.  Electricians typically install those to power their own tools while wiring the house, and they put them on a separate circuit. Moving the printer there is a good permanent solution.

Now, how do you catch this in the future? Get a $20 Kill-a-Watt power monitor.  It lets you measure each load (in turn) so you can definitely know the current each appliance draws, and plan circuit balance.  It will also show voltage sags, which combined with the known current draws make it easy to distinguish a true overload from a too-long wire run.

When you simply need to draw more power than a circuit can handle, there is no gadget which will let you do that.

Not Surge suppressors.  They limit voltage surges, not voltage dips.
Not automatic voltage regulators or line-interactive UPS's.  They make things even worse, by drawing more current still to compensate for lost voltage. They are intended for cases where the utility company cannot provide full voltage to your house, and your branch circuit has extra amp capacity.  They should never be used to correct voltage sag in an overloaded branch circuit.
Not UPS's.  You might think a UPS could store power to help bridge across short-term overloads, but as a practical thing, no.  That's not what they're made for.

The tech that works is plain old copper wire.  Installing wire is a very learnable skill for tech types, and it's shockingly cheap.  The cost is in the labor, which can be considerable if it's behind finished walls.

If you have no other option, there's a bold trick that lets you double a circuit's capacity: Re-designate the circuit to be 240V.  Keep the wire, change all outlets, the breaker, and any fixed appliances like lights.  Some of your gadgets are already multi-voltage (120-240V).  For the rest, use a transformer. For wired-in lighting, disconnect or make sure the fixture is rated for 240V, and use multi-voltage or 240V bulbs. For fluorescent lights, most new ballasts are already multi-voltage 120-277V, check yours and replace ballast if needed.  While complicated, this is a solid and safe solution to a hard problem.


How do I hang curtain rods? I'm not experienced, and I have poor tools, but it seems like I'm having more trouble than I should have. The last attempt was off-level despite an extra 30 minutes of working with a laser level; I know how to fix that. But each and every time I struggle getting screws into the wall.

Every time I have tried to hang curtains it has been a huge ordeal. If the curtain rod comes with hardware at all, it's usually cheap soft metal that starts stripping even if my bit doesn't slip. So I bought a set of plastic anchors at Lowe's. The first try, the drill bit that came with the anchors was too big and I could pull screw and all out of the wall. So I went a size smaller and ruined several anchors trying to make them fit. I tried self-drilling plastic anchors and had a fun time removing them when they found something solid they couldn't chew through; I'm no longer on good terms with the landlord so I'm not going to ask about steel frame or whatever lest they find a reason to fine me at move-out. Self-drilling metal anchors have a similar problem: there's something even my drill can't handle about 3/4" into my wall and nothing seems to get through it. It's an apartment so I don't care to find a bit that can chew up whatever it is.

I know I've got crappy screwdriver bits, but I don't know how to find better. I'm using what came with my drill and a cheap socket set. The set of screws that came with my anchors look horrible: rather than a nice cross-shaped Philips it's more rounded and the bit slips at the slightest bit of resistance. This is a source of huge frustration.

So I'm tired of buying cheap hardware and tools. What should I be looking for when I am looking for anchors, screws, and bits for hanging a curtain rod? It's hurting my feelings that I fail at this so much.

Windows typically have 2 or more studs on each side. Use a stud finder to ensure you are installing on a stud, then predrill with a bit slightly smaller than the solid part of the screw (not the threads themselves).

You can put a little soap on the threads of the screw if you want to try to make them easier to install, but I would focus on maintaining pressure and keeping the drill in perfect alignment with the screw. A skipping bit typically indicates that you aren't properly lined up with the screw. Also note that drill bits do wear out over time, particularly if you are skipping them on the screw head a lot, so it could be time for a new one.

See also:

What is the best technique for using a drill to insert screws?

When pre-drilling for screws, how do you determine the correct bit diameter?


troubleshooting a hot tub/spa that won't heat up We have a Hotsprings/Watkins brand hottub/spa that came with the house we bought last September.  At the time that we bought it, the hot tub appeared to work and heat up properly.  However, now that we've unwinterized it and tried to use it, it no longer heats up and the water temperature stays at 70 F.  The power to the hottub works ok and the jets, light and control panel all seem to work ok.

At first we found that the circulation pump wasn't working and we though that this is why the water wasn't heating up. We bought a new pump and now the bubbles come out of the bottom circulation vent at the bottom of the tub, but the water still doesn't heat up.  Does this sound like a problem with the heating element?  We're not really familiar with hot tubs and aren't sure how to troubleshoot this other than look at the obvious. People online talk about breakers in the inside control panel, but I couldn't find any and the only fuse in there is in tact. The only breaker I know of is the external breaker in a breaker box outside the hot tub. Any ideas are appreciated.

Deltaray,

I have a Hotsprings Grandee 220V. I've experienced a few power related issues. Here are my thoughts:

Makse sure the thermostat is set higher than 70 degrees. Should be a no brainer but you never know.
Make sure the breaker for the heater is on. Mine has 2 breakers in the sub panel, one for the heater and one for the pumps and electronics.
Try resetting everything. Turn off the breakers, let it site for a minute, turn the breakers back on.
On mine the cover for the control box is easy to open with a screwdriver. Turn off the breakers and open the control box. Examine the wires that go to the heater. Make sure they are attached.
Mine also has a fuse or two on in the control box. Look to see if they are blown.
The heaters do not last forever. They are pretty simple to replace, especially if you already have experience replacing the circulation pump.
If you are comfortable with electricity it is easy to see if the heater is getting power at the control box. Use a volt meter to check for voltage.
If the circulation pump was not working, the heater could have overheated. Look for a reset button, or if you know the heater is getting power, replace the heater.

When the heater is working you should feel hot water coming out of the drain vent. Your electric meter should also be spinning pretty fast. My Grandee takes a few hours to heat up, but you should feel the hot water almost immediately.

What year/model do you have? 110V or 220V?


How to support 20 feet of 4 inch pvc drain pipe horizontally along a concrete wall? I need to run 20 feet of 4 inch drain pipe horizontally along a concrete wall. Someone suggested saddle clamps and anchors. I am not sure exactly what type to use, especially if the pipe is full of rain water.

Any of the pipe hangers available at your local big-box home improvement store are designed to support a full pipe. They would be just decorations if they didn't...
Pick a type that seems simplest to you to use, get appropriate fasteners (you're attaching this to concrete, a simple screw or nail isn't going to do the trick), ensure you've got the proper 1/4" per foot of run slope (i.e. the drain end needs to be 5" lower than the input end after 20') and have at.
You can use J-hooks, saddle clamps, or just about anything else designed for the purpose.


Should I use traditional 2x4 framing or 1x3 grid framing for a New England basement remodel? I'm trying to decide which framing method to go with for a particular room while finishing a basement. I live in New England and I already have 2" foam board glued to the concrete using the correct foam adhesive. The concrete walls themselves are below grade. The room is roughly 11'x 19' with 2 of the 4 walls being the concrete/foam board side.

I'm planning on using this room as a home theater room with a large TV (>= 65") mounted on the side that has the 2 concrete wall/foam board. Furthermore, this wall will use sound proofing clips to mount the drywall to the frame.

Since I feel that space is at a small premium, I'm tempted to go with a 1x3 grid framing spaced at 16" on center vertically for the second layer. Would this support the weight of a TV? Would it be a good idea to use particular types of wood and not others? Are there are any other concerns I should take into account if I was to go with the 1x3 route as opposed to the traditional 2x4 route?

You can't frame out in 1x3 especially in a basement.  It is just too flimsy and and warping with probably make it brittle.  If you want to save an inch or two (which you will never notice) then please frame in 2x3.  You won't have any issues with 2x3s (other than having to install shallow electrical boxes in some cases).

Note:  Watched the video on the grid system.  I am sorry but this just seems very ill advised to me.  I have a list of problems I have with it (these are just some off the top of my head):

it's not faster or cheaper than installing traditional 2x3 (2x4) walls
it saves you maybe 1/2 inch per wall.
my biggest peeve is that you are drilling tons of holes in your foundation.  I just can't believe someone would do this
your insulation is now a support structure since your 1x3 will bend and rest on it
not even sure if running romex behind would be code (doubt it would get passed in my area)
basement walls usually aren't flat (and if they are they don't usually stay flat).  So when framing I pop out at the bulge you would just be drywalling there.


Can driveway fabric (petro-mat) be used DIY? I read that driveway fabric can help prevent new cracking when putting an asphalt overlay on top of an existing asphalt driveway networked with little cracks ("alligator").  Can this be done DIY?  If so, would I fill the depressions with asphalt patch first?

What's the difference between driveway fabric and landscape cloth (if any)?  I have a whole lot of landscape cloth left over from a project and I wonder if I could use that.

Here's a general description of petro-mats:

  The greatest source of damaging water in road structural sections is precipitation infiltration through pavements. Most pavements do not have adequate drainage systems to quickly remove infiltrated water. If a pavement base is saturated as little as 10% of the time, the useful life of that pavement will be reduced by 50%. The Petromat fabric, when saturated with the asphalt cement tack coat, becomes a moisture barrier in the pavement, minimizing surface water infiltration. The American Association of Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) 1993 flexible pavement design methodology gives a substantial structural credit to unbound roadbase materials when they are well drained and not allowed to become saturated. By minimizing water infiltration, the Petromat System moisture barrier will keep the road base more well drained and will therefore maximize the structural strength of unbound roadbase materials.

I think geotextiles were initially used in pavement as a weed barrier under the gravel sub-base, but then they evolved from there.

I talked to one of the petro-mat sellers and found out that the standard petro-mat needs a liquid "tack coat" poured down before the geotextile is put down.  Typically the fabric is put down with a special machine.  To put it down manually would ideally involve four people, one standing at each corner, because if folds or wrinkles form, the piece has to be thrown out and you have to start fresh.  One could do patchwork, with reasonably sized sections, to make it more workable.  But the tack coat is very hot asphalt with no gravel, I think -- which is beyond this DIYer.
Some more googling led me to another type of petro-mat that doesn't required the initial tack coat.  For this one, you just clean the driveway thoroughly, fill any cracks at least half an inch wide, and lay it down.  It sticks to the driveway and stays put nicely while the asphalt is being put down.  Description:

The GlasGrid System capitalizes on the high tensile stiffness of fiberglass. Its grid configuration features fiberglass strands coated with an elastomeric polymer. Each strand has a remarkably high modulus of elasticity that makes GlasGrid stronger than steel by weight.
A pressure-activated adhesive coating on the underside of the grid makes GlasGrid one of the fastest-to-install interlayer systems.

I plan to make an appointment with a residential paving service to have a new layer of asphalt put on my driveway.  The previous weekend I will clean it thoroughly, use a knife to clear out the bigger cracks, fill them with the DIY crack treatment, and then the day of the asphalt appointment, I will lay out the glass grid geotextile and stick it down.  I'll let the asphalt people do their regular thing.
I think that the occasional small depression should get evened out through the normal paving process, so I don't plan to do anything to those spots in advance.
The challenge now is to get a small piece of glass grid.  It comes in very large rolls since this material is not currently marketed to the residential consumer.  However, one of the sales people connected me to a paver three hours away who works with glass grid, and he has agreed to send me a remnant next time he has some leftover from a big parking lot.  (None of the pavers in my area have the slightest idea geotextiles even exist.)


Using CEDAR planks to sound proof a home music studio I have a finished room in the basement of my house that I want to turn into a music studio. Most of the advice found online suggest to "build a room within a room" and decoupling walls and ceiling. Now, the room is nicely finished with regular sheet rock walls and light fixtures. I would prefer not to tear down and rebuild the room as most online advice suggest.

I was thinking about applying acoustic insulation (like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/54-in-x-240-in-Acoustic-Insulation-Roll-7102-11054/302759769) to the walls already there.

Then install cedar planks - like the ones they use in sauna rooms. on top of that.

My question is: would that be dense enough to prevent the sound to get out of the room?

I will address the acoustics within the room on a separate post.

Soundproofing is an entire enginneering principal on its own. Not to be facetious, but you are asking for a definitive answer on soething that has near infinite variables.

Some quick notes, "solid" is not the way to stop sound. Air gaps and breaking up sound-waves is the way forward.

A bit of google on "soundproofing a room" will get you where you need to go, and likely better than a quick home depot fix. I checked and there is some excellent info available.

Good luck, and let us know what you do and how it worked out.

Max


Do junction boxes have to be 12 inches above a dock's deck if the datum plane is below it? Does this mean that junction boxes have to be 12in above the deck even though my datum plane is below the deck (not as in picture)?

My dock's deck is about 4 feet above the high-tide water line at it's lowest point and thus the datum line is half way up the dock supports. Can't junctions be under the deck?

Can't junctions be under the deck?

No, they can't.

You have to satisfy both conditions:

2' above highest high tide

and

12" above deck


Will a Toto Eco-Drake toilet with a 12" rough-in fit my 10.75" rough-in? My bathroom has a 10 3/4" rough-in and the currently-installed toilet needs to be replaced. Some research has let me to learn that the Toto Eco-Drake line of toilets that specify 12" rough-ins can be installed with as little as a little under 11". I have 10 3/4" available to work with. Does anybody know if I have enough space? If I'd come up like 1/8" too short, is there any way to move the unit forward or tilt the tank or something by the minuscule amount necessary to make it fit?

You may have seen, but the Eco-Drake comes in a 10" RI too. Here is the link

The 12 inch model seems like it may not do it for you. From the looks of the PDF spec sheet it only allows 3/4" space behind the tank as it is.


Sand dribbling out under baseboard. What could cause this? The scenario:

Slab on grade construction.
House built 1938, slab poured in 1950's we think. San Francisco area.
New framing, new hardwood floor, new baseboards.  Completion 6 months ago.
Altriset and Termidor (both) pumped under slab to control prior termite issue.
Adjacent room is unfinished basement space. There's concrete but no particular source of debris.

Every week or so we vacuum up what seems to be sand from the top of the hardwood floor.  It seems to blow out from under the baseboard.  What could cause this?

Solved:

The answer was: airflow.  The sill plate does not sit firmly on the foundation, leaving a gap.  Differential air pressure in the basement and the room results in a small wind, which brings dust and (yes) bits of sand from the concrete or mortar.

A little bit of spray foam (using the gun, not the instant-clogging single use cans) solved the problem.


Mounting an in home network cabinet without two studs, maybe use plywood? first post, I need some help. I am attempting to hang a 12u network cabinet in my laundry room. The problem is I only have one stud to use, maybe an additional corner stud, but the other stud is already taken up with some cabinets. I am trying to figure out best how to hang this, it is going to be around 50-60 pounds.

I have thought about getting a plywood sheet, and cutting it so it would have arms to go around the cabinets and I can attach the arms to the stud I cannot otherwise reach, and also attach to the other studs. But then how best would I mount the cabinet on the 3/4" plywood? Drywall would be behind plywood, and I am working with wooden studs.

Please help, hoping to get this hung today. Thanks.

Your posting is a bit short on details but here is what you want to do.

Cut the 3/4 inch plywood so that it is at least the height of the cabinet and as wide as the space from the corner of the room over to the side of the existing other cabinets.

You will mount this rectangle of plywood flat against the wall with one side of it snug into the corner of the room wall. This plywood would be screwed through the drywall into the corner stud and the other stud. Use some good quality flat head wood screws of size #10x2.75", #10x3" or #12x2.75". Large screws like this will need a clearance hole drilled through the plywood. A pilot hole drilled into the studs will also permit easier installation and prevent the screws from splitting the studs. Four of these screws in each stud should be adequate. If you use a counter sink to bore a taper into the face side of plywood the flat head screws can draw in below the surface of the plywood. This will prevent them from interfering with the cabinet later.

Note that there is also access to the lower edge of the top plate inside the wall right along the corner with the ceiling. If you made the plywood tall enough to reach up to the ceiling you could also put some screws into the top plate too for more holding power.

Note that you should not place the plywood over any electrical boxes in such manner that the electrical box would become hidden. Another concern is that a laundry room is often near the the place where many electrical wires from the electrical panel fan out to other parts of the house in the walls and/or ceiling. For this reason do evaluate carefully so as to not be drilling or screwing into any electrical wires.

Once the plywood is in place you may want to finish it before mounting the cabinet. For raw wood make sure to use a good quality primer before applying the finish paint coats. You could also spackle over the countersunk screw heads so as to hide them and provide a nice flat appearance.

Mounting the cabinet will be a process of securing the back wall of the cabinet against the plywood. Most cabinets will already have holes in the back for just this purpose. If there are no holes then you will want to drill some. These holes should be the clearance size for the screws used to mount the cabinet. Appropriate screws (for a metal backed cabinet) are going to be round or pan head #12x1" wood screws. This size may penetrate the plywood and poke into the drywall some but that is OK. Slide the cabinet into place and mark the hole locations. Then drill pilot holes at those locations for the screws. Mount up the cabinet in place. I would recommend at least four screws if not six of them depending upon the size of the unit. Screws near the rear corners of the cabinet will be better than ones placed in the middle of the back. If there were existing holes that were too large for the heads of the screws you can select an appropriately sized flat washer to place under the screw heads.


What should I pack behind a cast iron fireplace? I have a cast iron open fireplace which is (loosely) attached to the chimney breast in my living room by the mantle piece.  There is a small but significant gap behind it where the bricks have been hacked out so it will fit.  What should I fill this gap with?  Currently any soot which forms can fall down behind the fireplace.

a picture would help, but i sense that no matter what i will recommend you to use cob - that is, building with earth. i didn't understood exactly what gap you need to fill but cob can fill everything, it's cheap (cost nothing!) it's fixable, and it can stand the heat (with guaranty - in the past i have built some ovens with it).


Why would a portable heater set off a carbon monoxide alarm? I've got a small portable heater purchased from Target for about $10.

When you first turn it on, it always has that burning smell from the element heating up.
It clears up after about 10 min.

Recently, I turned it on in a room with a CO detector, and that smell set it off.
What's the correlation?  There's no oil or anything to give off CO?  Is it still safe?  Should I just open the windows while it's warming up?

EDIT: It's electric.  Detector is new and it sets off as the heater is turned on.
Is it really emitting CO or is the defect just setting off a false positive on the detector?

If your carbon monoxide alarm is going off, you need to assume that there's actually carbon monoxide in dangerous levels in that area. If the heater is electric it probably shouldn't be emitting CO but maybe there's a manufacturing defect that's causing the heating element or plastic to burn.

CO is lethal and totally undetectable by people, so if the alarm goes off you need to leave the building and open the windows. The absence of smoke does not mean that you are safe.

(CO detectors have a limited lifespan: 2-10 years, depending on the model. There should be a date stamped on it somewhere. If it's at "retirement" age you should probably replace it anyway, and then you can see if the new one still goes off.)

Revision based on question update:

You must not ignore the CO detector. People can and do die in their own homes of CO poisoning, oblivious to the problem. Unlike smoke/fire, there's no way for you to tell the source of the problem or evaluate its severity, and no way to tell if the problem has been resolved. You probably have a sub-standard or defective heater — I would not use it anymore.


How should I fasten my shed rafters together at the peak? I'm framing the roof of an 8x10 shed with a loft overhang:

The plan I am following has no ridge beam nor ridge board and instructs me to "screw or nail the rafters together at the peak" which seems a bit vague/insufficient to me. Here is a photo from the plan:

The rafters will be fastened to the loft joists, but I'm wondering how exactly I should be fastening them together at the peak. I've been considering plywood gussets or metal truss plates--I want to maximise headroom in the loft, so they would need to be fairly small. Since most of the rafters are tied together at ceiling height (due to the loft joists), I initially thought I would just need to connect them in a non-structural way that emulates what a ridge board would be doing (alignment, basically). However, I'm a little anxious because of the steep pitch (16-12), especially after finding out that past 12-12, a structural ridge beam should be used instead of a ridge board. I'd rather not add a ridge beam in (nor a ridge board, for that matter).
Where I'm building, there are about 2 weeks of snow per year and a lot of rain. Uplift winds are something of a concern as the structure is atop a hill.
How can I safely fasten my rafters together at the peak without compromising headroom?

First I have a barn that is very very similar - basically exactly the same, but I just enclosed the overhang section.
So I would suggest something similar to the picture below - you can google "roof truss plate".  (obviously not a perfect example as that top center hole is not needed... this is not a great example, just the shape of the plates I have used before)
There are simpson ties that you can use shaped like this.   Whats the "bottom"?   I greatly suggest that you block each rafter connection a few inches below - small 2x6.   This will keep uneven loads or winds from pushing one side vs another.
You will also need to rows of blocking on each side.   This will not only help secure the sheathing for the roof but are structural against lateral rafter movement.


How to hang stuff on wood paneling Our house, built in 1951, has one room paneled in wood:

When we bought the place, the home inspector opined that this was original to the house, and not the cheap 1970s stuff. Moreover, the house is very solidly built overall. Here's what we found when we opened up the wall behind the shower:

I want to hang some bookshelves on this paneled wall, probably the standard-and-bracket type, like this. My questions:

How thick is that paneling likely to be?
Is that same double-thickness situation (which looks like plaster over drywall, or maybe two layers of plaster) likely to be under the paneling? If not, what is?
Am I going to need any special kind of hardware to hang shelves on wood over plaster over drywall over a stud?

How thick is that paneling likely to be?

No one here can make that assessment for you; you will need to inspect the wall, by either drilling a hole at the intended mounting site, or opening the wall up.

  Is that same double-thickness situation (which looks like plaster over drywall, or maybe two layers of plaster) likely to be under the paneling?

Again, you will need to inspect the wall you intend to hang the shelf from and not make any assumptions of continuity of construction. Your inspector spoke out of turn here; unless he was the original home owner or carpenter that put the paneling up.

  If not, what is?

It's a 70 year old house - there is no reason to assume that it has never been remodeled in the past, and that any old work dug into, is original to the house. What's behind door number 2? Look.

  Am I going to need any special kind of hardware to hang shelves on wood over plaster over drywall over a stud?

Probably not - as long as the paneling has substantial thickness, and is properly affixed to the underlying framing. Neither of which you know at this point, and no one here can tell you, unless they've had that wall open themselves.

In earlier period paneling jobs, is wasn't unusual for the carpenter to panel a wall, not unlike they would panel a floor. By furring the surface in an apposing direction or at an angle to the framing first, then the finished panels at whatever angle was desired - without plaster or drywall at all.


What is the proper setup to cut straight openings with a router? I am new to using a router (first time). Did as much research as I could and I am wondering if my layout for cutting my first project is proper.

If you are willing to invest into expand your routers capacity, I suggest getting a set of router guide bushings. Sometimes they are specific to the make of the router There are videos on YouTube on how to use them. The bushings will allow you to make a template of the cutout you need whether it be  out of one large scrap piece or several small pieces fasteng to make a 4 sided guide. Its size is determined by the off set of the guide bushing to the router bit. If the OD of the guide is 3/4" and the bit is 1/4", the template is made larger than the top you wish to drop in by 1/4". You can start out with a guide to do the smaller hole first, (larger difference in the offset) for example the 3/4" guide and the 1/4" bit, and make the cut all the way through. Swap it out to a smaller guide (1/2" guide) and make the stepped cut to rest the table in its' place.

Planning all this out is done with the finish in mind. Make a test cut using the smallest offset on a scrap piece of flat stock using another 4 pieces of smaller scrap to use as the guides. These pieces should be at least half the width of the router base. When assembled together it will more or less be a smaller example of the larger version you wish to do. This will let you get the feel of the router doing its' job and let you see in real time the offset the guide provides, enabling you to determine the placement of the templates for the cuts that matter.

Remember the test cuts are for the finish size to allow your top to drop in, the stepped cut. Before you start cutting on the actual piece after you determine the proper placement of the template, swap out the bushing to the larger offset, make the cut all the way through, then swap the guide back out to the smaller offset to make the final cut that allows the inset top to set flush.


How can I mend my metal tables broken arm? Hi I have a Metal table with two Arms that protrude outwards and Up of which you can place a cup and small plate on or Similar (Great for keeping the main table clear) but one of the Kids fell and broke Part of the arm, now Super Glue is not Stromg enough and Im trying to find an extreamly hard Bonding agent Apart from Welding, that will hold the two seperate metals together.
Thanks

A photo would help us visualize the broken part, but provided there's enough surface area, JB Weld should work. It's an epoxy that can join metals.


How do I stop my recliner from scratching wood floor I have hardwood floors and recently purchased a recliner.  The recliner slides around on the hardwood floor.  Is there a product that will stop the recliner from sliding and more importantly stop it from scratching the floor?

Also, the bottom of the recliner is a big disc approximately 24" in diameter.

Does the recliner have distinct "feet" under the disk?

If so, some rubber floor protecting pads under those feet should stop the scratches and the sliding:

(this one is just a representative sample, they come in many shapes, sizes, and materials)

If the entire disk contacts the floor, then how about just putting a carpet under it (with a non-slip pad under the carpet)


Can I enter the side of the panel *through* the stud? I have a service panel that is the usual setup, mounted between two studs. The studs are not load bearing.  I want to bring NM (Romex) cable into the side of the panel, but that involves drilling through the studs.  How do I protect the cable?

Would this work, using a rigid conduit nipple then clamped by conduit nuts? (I might have to add washers or shim on the outside in case I can't get the threading just right).

As far as I know there's nothing saying you can't put strain relief clamps facing the inside of the panel. I'd simply drill slightly oversized holes through the studs, centered on the knockout, to allow installation of the clamp. Say 1-1/4" for a 3/8" clamp, then run wiring as per usual.

You could also use snap-in, self-clamping bushings that require no screw tightening and insert them from through the stud or from inside the panel.

Since the wiring is centered on the stud, as it would be anywhere else in the house, no protection would be necessary.


simple niche/nook shelf: boards resting on screws I have a niche/nook in a room (marked red)

and some leftover chipboards of width 16mm. Together they should make a simple shelf. So I would cut the chipboards to the same width/depth as the niche/nook (minus some mm) and for each board

drill 4 holes to the opposing sides (marked blue) at a certain height
put rawplugs/screw anchors and screws in the holes
put the board on top of the 4 screws.

The wall is made of concrete (right side) and bricks (left side).

Questions:

What types of screws should I use (thickness, material) so that a board can carry up to 10kg? The weight will not be concentrated on one spot, it will be distributed quite evenly. E.g. one board should carry a basket (almost same size as board widht/depth) which will be filled with empty glasses and bottles.
What options do I have to compensate inaccuracy of the drilled holes? I never manage to make all holes on the exact same height, or to make all of them perfectly horizontal!

I would use 3/16 Tapcon screws. (Use 5/32 masonry bit.) The Tapcon screws are thread hardened specifically for use in masonry materials. The hardened thread will hold up better than a wood or machine screw. A lighter (smaller diameter) screw will likely suffice, but in my experience sometimes heavier weights get placed on shelves.

To level the shelves, I would apply felt adhesive pads, like those used to prevent furniture from marring surfaces, on the bottom of your shelves. They are compliant, and faced with the head of the Tapcon screw, they will deform.  That will help keep the shelf from sliding, and moving.  If the shelf is not even on the screws, you can multilayer the pads to get things approximately right.

For drilling level, you can use a level, but a laser level, if you have one available, is an easy way to get a level line projected on to the wall.  You may also wish to apply painter's tape to the wall and premark your desired holes on the tape.  If you can, avoid putting the screws into grout, and stick to the brick area, as it is more rigid, and less likely to crumble over time.

If you mess up with the Tapcon, there are soft plastic inserts.  Either re-bore to a larger size, or put the inserts in, and use a smaller hardened screw like the Tapcon.

You are perceptive to know that masonry screws are not precisely located sometimes.  If you end up with a screw that is real high, you can use a spade bit or if you have them, a Forstener bit, both nearly flat bottomed, to lightly hog out shelf material to make a better fit for a level shelf.  Still use the felt pad(s) to have a compliant resting spot on the screw.

A hammer drill is much better than a regular drill.  Should you have a friend who offers you a rotary hammer drill, be nice to them and get the appropriate size bit from him.  The rotary hammer is the best tool for boring into these materials, and is not only faster, but will place far less wear and tear on the bit.


How to bypass ballast for T8 4ft LED tube? I successfully bypassed a ballast to install a T8 4ft LED tube. But this time, I have a different kind of ballast (HOWARD INDUSTRIES M2/40RS-120, 60 HZ MAGNETIC BALLAST), one that can connect to 2 fixtures.
Please look at the pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5EnX5CT4CnNdvKsf2
On the first picture, you can see the right fixture with the ballast. The second picture shows both fixtures, right and left. On the 3rd picture, you can see well the left fixture, with no ballast. It is on the left fixture that I would like to install the led light, because it is over the stove. The 4th picture shows the left thumbstone of the right fixture. The 5th picture shows the right thumbstone of the left fixture.
What wires should I cut? Where should I connect the wires?

Not a problem if 1 or 2 fixtures , there 2 kinds of ballast bypass lamps single end or double end first we need to know the type, I prefer double ended because then all existing tomb stones can be used. First if this is a double ended lamp I would tie the center. Or middle tombstones to the hot or neutral it doesn't matter then the outside one at each end to the other tombstones.
If this is a single end led the tombstones can not be shunted, but if the tombstones are not shunted (the 2 contacts read open with a contunitity test) I would wire the center or middle toombstones hot on 1 side and neutral to the other of each of the center tombstones. These are the only connection options (other than if you wanted to waste wire and put them at the outside ends). Make sure to label the fixture and if single end the hot & neutral end. This will work with 1 or more lamps end to end.


Proper way to protect cables above surface-mounted electrical panel What are the Code requirements for protecting wires going into the top of a surface mounted electrical panel?  Do the wires need to be in a conduit from the top of the panel into the ceiling above?  If not, do the wires need to be secured to the wall behind the panel with staples or some other support?  If so, at what length does securing the wires become necessary?

I installed a new surface-mounted electrical panel in my garage, and my inspector failed me for not having protected the wires going into the top of the panel.  The wires exit the top of the panel and into a 6" hole in the ceiling, which is about 16" above the top of the panel. The wires are secured at the top of the cabinet, but are otherwise not secured anywhere along the path to the hole in the ceiling.  All other installation details were deemed acceptable (height, access, keep-out requirements, etc.).  How should I adequately protect these wires?  The inspector suggested I could simply run 2x4s alongside the panel, but this seems kind of a wonky suggestion.

Not sure this is relevant, but this new panel is in a new location from the previous panel.  The previous panel was converted into a subpanel, and all its existing circuits were left in place (which incidentally have their wires running out of the top of the panel as well - equally "unprotected").  Only two additional new circuits run out of the top of my new panel.

Surface wiring is often allowed in areas not readily subject to damage. I'm surprised it was flagged. The panel in my unfinished basement from 1993 has a fountain of cables coming out of it and it is (was) considered acceptable.

I'm no code wizard, but I'd put lumber alongside the cables, flush on the sides of the box, between the box and the ceiling. I'd overlay a small piece of plywood (using screws to keep it removable) and call it done.

--------------------------- < -- ceiling
   ||    |   |   |   ||
   ||    |   |   |   ||
   ||    |   |   |   || < -- framing lumber with cables between
   ||    |   |   |   ||
   ||    |   |   |   ||
   -------------------
   |                  |
   |                  |
   |                  | < -- electrical panel
   |                  |

Cables need to be secured as they would anywhere in a circuit: Every four feet and within 12" of the box. Since they should already be clamped at the panel entry point, you really only need to staple up near the ceiling. If there's a gap behind the cables where they enter the ceiling, install a board of suitable thickness crosswise behind the cables and staple to that.


How can I repair a dining room table with folding ends? If so, I've got a nice old dining room table that folds down quite small (seats 2) but also can be pulled out with leaves to seat ~8.  The ends of the table are supported by swing-out arms that are getting kind of tired.  Without stuffing something between the arms and the end leaves, the leaves sag down at about a 10 degree angle.

I'd like to replace the support arms with something more sturdy. Got any design recommendations?

Looking at the picture it seems that there may be several problems going on here. In the foreground the swing out arm seems to have come completely loose from the vertical support between the legs. The C-Clamp being used to temporarily hold that part in place is not coming close to holding the hinged piece in place so it can work properly. For this side the assembly needs to be properly re-glued or screwed in place. A combination of gluing and hidden screws from the inside of the vertical support may do the trick.

For the support on the far side of the picture it looks like the top portion of the swing out arm has completely split off. Fixing this part will require replacement of the arm part or as a minimum squaring off the split top face and gluing a new piece to replace the broken away part.

One additional note is to evaluate the condition of the vertical support member between the legs. If this piece is wobbly and not secure then I would suggest that the repairs are much more involved and you may be faced with making a decision if the table is worth the effort repair at all. Overall woodworking experience and / or willingness to take on something like this may play a big role in the decision making process as well.

Evaluation would need to be made for the other end of the table to see if it has similar problems or not.

If it was me and the table had some sentimental value I would dive into the repairs. Doing repairs like this however will not do a lot to preserving any heirloom quality of the table but that has probably been lost a long time ago as noted from current condition.

I have one final comment to make. When trying to wedge up the swing up portion of the table top it is better to place the wedge out at the end of the arm as opposed to near the swing up hinge. As shown in the far side of the picture the  wedge stick places an undue amount of stress on the hinge joint that could lead to further failure.


Why are both elements on in my new water heater? Recently installed a new water heater. Both elements are on at the same time. Checked with the manufacturer to make sure this is not normal(it's not). Any idea what could cause this? Thanks!

It is unusual for both elements to be on at the same time in a residential water heater. The upper thermostat starts heating the water and when it gets to the set temperature it switches power to the lower thermostat. The upper thermostat has a single pole double throw switch to the lower one so both elements can't be on at the same time. If it's happening, then the upper thermostat is either wired wrong or it's somehow defective.

If the water heater's wired correctly, #10 wire and a 30 amp breaker, two 4500W elements on at the same time would draw 37.5 amps +- and would trip the breaker.

Check again with the vendor and also check the nameplate info.


Should I keep this surge suppressor in my main load center? I found this curious item in my main load center (circuit breaker box), marked "SQUARE D COMPANY / SECONDARY SURGE ARRESTER / J9200-10".  It has been there for at least 20 years, attached to the ground/neutral bar and the load side of the main breakers, and dangling free inside the load center.  At Schneider's site (apparently bought Square D), "the J9200-10 was a 175Vac to neutral/ground maximum, single-phase arrestor".   So I assume it was installed in my panel with the intention of offering whole-house surge protection.

Questions:

Should I keep it installed ?

Should I replace it, since it's so old, that is, do surge arrestors "wear out" ?

Not visible in this image, but it has a round threaded protrusion and locknut, obviously meant to be installed in a 1/2" knockout.  Seems like the body of the thing is meant to be on the outside of an enclosure (as opposed to the inside), since loose wires come out the other side.  Perhaps it was simply left dangling inside the box due to laziness.  Should I install it in a knockout (of the load center) ?  I imagine this is a metal-oxide varistor (MOV) and these things dissipate surges as heat, which gives me pause in having it outside any enclosure.

If I install it in a knockout (with the body outside), the wires will not reach.   Is it ok to extend them with soldered THWN and heat-shrink insulation ?   I prefer to avoid the clutter of 3 add'l wire nuts.  I believe solder is considered satisfactory electrically, but not mechanically; but since the solder joint and both ends of wire are within the same enclosure, I don't think the mechanical thing is of concern.

Here is the backside of it.

They are intended to be mounted outside the box...
You are correct that they are intended to be mounted to a KO (usually on the breaker box), instead of being left inside, all flop-a-dop, as yours was.  You can use this unit still, although you will probably want to leave some space around it, as its further lifespan is unknown.  (All MOV-based suppressors have a finite life; a MOV that's seen too much will break down under normal mains voltage, which on good suppressors will cause a thermal fuse to blow and take it out of the picture.)
...and not double-tapped either
While you're in there, you'll want to clean up the "double tap" on your main breaker's lugs and move the surge suppressor wiring to its own two-pole breaker of an appropriate ampere rating, or use wirenuts and appropriate-gauge pigtails to add it to an existing 240V circuit of a suitable ampere rating.  Note that Siemens breakers (unlike Square-D QO and HOM and Eaton CH) are not rated for two wires under a branch breaker lug, by the way.


How likely is it that my 1980 home has asbestos in the drywall? I live in a townhome and water leaked from the 2nd floor to the ground floor and caused water damage to the ceiling drywall on the lower floor. I would like to fix it myself. According to this, there could be asbestos in the drywall. My home was built in 1980. How likely that there is asbestos in the drywall? The home is in Tulsa, Oklahoma.

Asbestos in drywall was banned and regulated in 1977.    There would be an extremely low low chance that yours would contain asbestos.


I removed a duplex receptacle and now my other receptacles don't work I have removed a duplex receptacle and now, my other receptacles don't work. After removal, I capped each wire separately and that was all! Why did removing one outlet cause others to stop working? Thanks

Duplex outlets are usually installed in a daisy chained string.

If you want to remove one without affecting the others, you should observe carefully what wires are attached to where before disconnecting.

Make sure the breakaway tab has NOT been broken away as that would indicate a special situation:

Then use a wire nut to join the black wires that were under the brass screws or in their corresponding stab-lock holes.

Then use a wire nut to join the white wires that were under the silver screws or in their corresponding stab-lock holes.

That should restore service to the downstream outlets.

Alternately you might consider a solution OTHER than removing the outlet.  You can obtain 'recessed' outlets from most home supply stores, if the outlet you removed is in the way.

Remember, it's not legal to drywall patch over and fill in an outlet box.  So if you remove the outlet you will have to put a cover plate on that will stick out just as much.  Flush outlets will probably have less of a bump to them.


How can I secure loose gutters? Along the back of my house there is a gutter approximately 20' long.  The lower end is coming away from the house.  A couple of years ago I replaced several of the old gutter nails with gutter screws.  The thread was a bit bigger than the shaft of the nail and most of them took fairly firmly.  In a couple of places I had to move the spot it went into the soffit over an inch or so to get it to take.  Now most of those screws are lose.

I fear that behind the aluminum cladding, the wood I'm attaching too is rotted but there is no other sign of water damage.  Assuming I have something to attach to, what are my options?  Bigger screws?  Move the screws again?

Sounds like your fascias under your cladding are shot... The only way to make this work, which I would not recommend is to line up your screws with the rafter tails and get long enough screws to sink into them.


Levelling deep spots in concrete floor I have a large room with a corner that goes close to 3" below level.  Rather than dumping bag after bag of SLC, it seems like maybe I should use a regular mortar or concrete to get it up to near level then use SLC to finish off what my hack concrete job will probably look like?
As the dip nears level, what's the minimum thickness I should go if mortar or concrete is advisable?

At 3” I would mix up a batch with turkey grit much larger than sand but smaller than pea gravel. I have used this mix to level garages that had a similar slope to the door when making them a living space.
The existing floor needs to be clean and I would do a heavy etch of muriatic acid and water. After rinsing I would put down an adhesion promoter then start your pour.  I have done this by hand mixer Several times but one case I did get what I needed on a short load , much easier, I did have to wait a few extra days but it was worth it!  only a yard and a half but hand mixing the start is almost set by the time you finish So it takes 3 or that’s how we did it 1 person on the mixer the other two raking & floating. But we did this close to a dozen times to add living space.


Continuous Load Definition for Feeder Wire I understand that for feeder wire from a service entry panel to a subpanel the conductor wires need to be sized according to 125% of the continuous load plus 100% of the non-continuous load. I've also found various definitions (CEC and non-residential NEC) for continuous loads being those on for more than 1 hour in a 2 hour period.

For residential usage, I generally won't have all the continuous loads running simultaneously (ex. lights, an EV charger, HVAC, etc.), so do I still have to sum all the continuous loads or can I size for an average continuous load?

EDIT:
The question also applies to non-continuous loads. Do I need to sum all of them, even if not all will be active simultaneously?

Under the NEC there is no differentiation between residential and non-residential with regard to continuous loads. A continuous load has a very clear definition that most people interpret wrong. It's not any load that "is on" for a certain amount of time. It is a load that is expected to run at maximum current for a certain amount of time, three hours.

  Continuous Load.

  A load where the maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.

The key words here are "expected" and "maximum current".


Can I use a swamp cooler to cool an AC unit's condenser? Swamp coolers work great and use a fraction of the electricity of an air conditioner in a dry climate with little humidity (like Phoenix) but there are downsides like mold and, well, everything feels wet in your house. Dry cool air is more comfortable than wet cool air.

Why don't the condenser units of a split system AC use water in some way to cool the condenser? Is it because the moist air would cause corrosion faster and the savings in electricity would be lost to the fact that you'd have to replace the unit? How do AC units in climates like Florida last more than a few years since it's humid all the time there?

Using a water cooled condensing units for refrigeration is not a new idea - large chiller units have been doing this for many years, but it's not as simple as hooking up a hose and letting er rip...  there's a lot of additional maintenance involved with all the cooling water infrastructure - even a simple spray evaporation cooling system requires nozzle cleanings, pump maintenance and such pretty regularly.

Home AC units don't really need the efficiency boost from evaporative cooling because the air cooled condensing unit(s) are efficient enough without introducing the complexities of water lines, spray bars and a drainage system for a small direct expansion system.  If the condenser is not giving you the proper heat rejection - just upsize the heat exchanger... far cheaper and more reliable right?

That being said, I have a window unit AC that takes the condensate and splashes it back on the condenser fins to boost efficiency, and I know there is a model of RV air conditioner which does the same thing.  It is possible this feature has been added to DX condensing units - but I have been out of the HVAC world for some years now.


convert a hardwired lamp to on off switch My 3 wall lights are hard wired and have on-off switches on the units. There is no wall switch for any of them. The trouble is they are all different fixtures and all pretty ugly. I'm looking to replace them without spending a fortune (ideally something with a Mission feel for under $100 apiece), but finding a good replacement is hard, with the limitation of an on-off switch on the fixture. Is it possible somehow to convert a non-switched receptacle to a switched one, or is there some kind of piece that you can screw in before you screw in the light bulb that is a switch, or some kind of solution to this problem?

Can I take a plug-in lamp with an on-off switch (obviously not inline with the cord, but on the fixture itself), and install that in the wall? I feel like it would be hard to attach such a fixture to the wall, though.

In addition to ideas for converting the fixtures, I welcome suggestions for places that sell nice-ish switched lights. I have already combed through regular search-engine results without much luck.

How about a "smart bulb" product such as an Insteon LED bulb? I've used these to replace old pull-chain ceiling sockets with more attractive fixtures. A single bulb is around $50 and you can buy a wall mount remote for around $30.


Furnace Short Cycling My furnace is short-cycling. I've tried the following:

replaced the flame sensor
Shorted the thermostat heat demand signal
Checked the blower capacitor
Checked the air intake filter
Checked the exaust vent

It seems to only works after I cut the power to it for 8+ hours

When it starts working it will work for about 48 hours and then return short cycling.

It has only begun short cycling at night (maybe temperature related).

What else should I trouble shoot.

I would start by trying to find a service manual for your furnace, and see if it has a troubleshooting flow chart.

I am thinking either:

Something is not functioning correctly, and the control board is shutting it down to prevent damage
A sensor is reading incorrectly
The control board is having issues and not applying logic correctly.

If the control board is detecting something wrong, it might throw an error code.  Previous systems I've used had an LED on the board that would blink out the error code.

You might be able to check the output of the various sensors by back probing the connectors.  You can do your 8 hour reset to determine the 'good' values, then test it when it is short cycling to see if these are different enough to cause the control board to think something is wrong.

Look over the control board for signs of damage - blown capacitors, burn marks.


What do I have to do to prepare my garage floor for paint? I'd like to paint my garage floor, possibly with textured paint.

What do I have to do in order to get my garage floor, which is currently dirty and somewhat oily, ready for something like an epoxy-based, textured paint?

I purchased a garage floor epoxy kit It contained very detailed instructions on how to prep the floor. It also had muriatic acid in it to etch the floor before painting on the epoxy.

One tip I would give is to have someone help you put it on.  You only have a limited time to work with the epoxy once the two parts are mixed. If you have one person cutting in and one person rolling on the main part, it is much easier to get it done in the setup time of the epoxy.


How do I insulate a living area below a former porch My brother has an old house probably built in the 30s or 40s  in renovated in the 50s. The very front of the house looks like it may have been a converted porch. There was recently a leak which prompted me to pull down some of the sheet rock on the ceiling. I was a little surprised to see that there is no insulation at all above that area ( which explains the heating bills ).
I’m wondering what the best way to insulate the area is. The roof is at about a 20 degree angle, do I insulate the area about the Sheetrock, or the angles of the eves? How do I make sure everything is vented correctly ?

Normally the insulation is on top of the sheetrock, and venting takes place just below the roof boards, or anyway between the roof boards and the top of the insulation - unless you have a lot of space to work with, more insulation is better up until you block the venting, and then it's not.
Given that it's a "converted porch" the high side of the venting may be difficult, or at least involve getting creative, if it butts up against a wall rather than connecting to a vented attic - in which case you'll need to install vents on the top part of the roof surface. Intake vents at the eaves/soffits should be more normal.
Buildings of that age, never assume with respect to insulation - there may be other areas completely lacking it that you'd expect to be insulated.


Why is this panel like this and what should I do to fix this problem I'm trying to rewire my house and I found this in the attic. What tips could everybody help me with so I can replace this or I can make it better toward the wires or not I'll run in here like this.

Also I bought a sub panel that's 125 A. Am I able to use that amount of amps on the panel or is it better to get 100 amp breaker panel?

There is a lot that needs to be corrected but it looks to me like it could be salvageable.

I'll focus on the box, there are probably some other issues with supporting the cables and protecting them from physical damage.  Some of the old cloth covered wire may be deteriorated to the point it must be replaced.

I think someone repurposed an old panel as a junction box using terminal blocks to splice wires within the box.  There is no cover, and there are a bunch of other issues (cables coming in over the edges rather than through clamps, improper terminations on terminals, etc.)    Most of these issues can be corrected pretty easily, but I can't see if there's anything worse going on in there - there very well may be.

You could replace this with a large junction box / wireway and new terminal blocks, or simply make wire nut splices instead of using terminal blocks.  You could also break this up into several smaller junction boxes and use wire nuts.

I'd say this is probably one to call in reinforcements.  An electrician will be able to evaluate whether there are serious issues or it's just a matter of cleaning up and replacing a hack junction box.


Moving kitchen into dining room I have recently purchased a 1930's very typical London terraced house- little rectangular kitchen at the back next to a formal separate dining room. I have attached the floorplan. I am going to build the wall back up between the reception room and dining room and reinstate the door and then knock down the wall between the dining room and kitchen. My plan has always been for a open plan kitchen diner and I would ideally love to put the kitchen on the far left wall in the dining room and turn the existing kitchen area into a space for my table. This would open it up a lot and be more usable. I also want to put a conservatory on the back of the dining room. The drain is located under the kitchen window (next to where the existing sink is) So my eventual question is what do you think the problems I may encounter are? Would it be mainly around drainage? I have yet to get any quotes just would like to approach the professionals with more of an idea!! Thanks everyone

Thoughts, in no particular order:

Where's the water heater? The longer the pipe run between it and the kitchen, the longer you'll be waiting for hot water. There are instant hot water devices if this is an issue.

The oven will presumably need either an electrical or gas connection.

You're putting the dining table directly under the toilet. How's the sound insulation?

Is the wall you'd be knocking down load-bearing?


Did I mount this light too close to a post? I was adding 2 new additional basement lights today, I thought I was doing a good job of mounting everything correctly and securing the wire.

However when I finished and got someone else to look at it they pointed out that I may have mounted the lights too close to the beam.

I mounted them in that position because it would still let me crawl between the posts without hitting the lights, and It was easy to work on as I could sit on the concrete pier.

My question is: Is this light mounted too close the post? What electrical code dictates the minimum distance between the light and wood?
I'd like to not have to not have to take them down, but if It wouldn't pass inspection I'd definitely re-do it.

With CFL or LED, this shouldn't be an issue
The only plausible Code issue with this situation is NEC 410.11 with regards to luminaires near combustible materials.  Practically speaking, though, you'll never exceed the 90°C limit the Code imposes with a normally functioning CFL or LED bulb, and even with an incandescent, the chances are rather low unless you leave the lamp burning 24/7/365.


How to wire GFCI together with two switches controlling light/exhaust fan and vanity light I'm installing a GFCI Outlet in the bathroom using 12/2 wire on a 20 amp breaker.

The outlet box contains GFCI Outlet, 1st Switch to control light/Exhaust Fan in ceiling, 2nd Switch to control vanity light above sink.

I have a closet in the bathroom which has an outlet box with both 12/2 and 14/2 running to the box. This is the end of the circuit.

First, the 14/2 wire will need to be upgraded to 12/2 wire or you need to downgrade the breaker to 15 amps to protect that section 14/2 wire from possibly overheating/causing a fire.

The vanity typically does not need to be on the GFCI but if the light/exhaust fan is close enough to the shower/tub that you can touch it (if you are not tall enough, image if you were tall enough) while standing in the shower/tub then the light/exhaust fan should be protected by the GFCI.  The closet does not been to be protected by the GFCI, but it wouldn't hurt if it was.

GFCI receptacles have two different sets of terminals.  One set will be marked line, this is where power from the panel is connected, and other other set is load.  The load terminals will protect any outlets downstream that are connected to this.

For anything protected by the GFCI, the neutrals will need to connect to the load neutral terminal.  Same as for the hots as well, they need to be connected to the load hot terminal.  But in the case of the fan (if it needs to be protected), wire the hot terminal to one of the switch terminals and the other switch terminal to the hot on the fan.  The neutral will just be wire directly to the load neutral.  If any downstream device does not feed the neutral back through the load terminal on the GFCI, the GFCI will trip.


Stacking 'Main lug' load centers for garage I am aware of most NEC codes and am actually asking if this is allowed, There really shouldn't be any reason..I also fully understand keeping my netural and ground seperate and how the bus bars are bridged and grounding case screw etc.

But I could be missing something..And the basic reason for the question..instead of purchasing a larger panel I have a few of these laying around....

I do know you can power the bus bars via a circuit breaker.

Can I also use the actual lugs on that bus bars to send that power to another lug type panel... I do not see why not if connected correctly.

The picture explains pretty clear... I wanna double up the cheapos. They will be connected with 2in+ PVC to which I could never go over my conduit fill. I also am aware there is nothing stopping me from 'butting' them up to one another withe the open holes.

Be aware that both hots and neutral must be in the same pipe.

Don't butt them against each other/use bare holes. Set them far enough apart that the covers won’t interfere. Use a metal conduit nipple between the panels right wall to left wall. Better yet, use 2-3 sensibly sized ones, so you have an alternate path for crossover wires. If you have 2 metal nipples between them I am very comfortable wiring the ground only to the first one and letting the metal carry the ground to the other.    Can't do that with PVC!

If you use PVC outside, swiff-sand it with a green Scotchbrite pad, prime it with alkyd primer (Kilz will do) and paint it. That protects it from UV.

If in the same building

You don't need a shutoff switch so don't waste 2 breaker spaces.

You can't put 2 wires on a lug.  But you can get 3-wire Polaris connectors and split.  That's what you do with the hots.  For the neutral and ground, if your buses have room for 2 large wires, just daisy chain.

If in different buildings

Then you need a shutoff switch.  You can backfeed a double breaker to make a shutoff switch, if there is a factory authorized tie-down kit for it to hold it down.

That takes care of the first panel.  For the second panel, just use the feed-thru lugs on the first one to go to the input lugs on the other one,  just as you have planned.  Come to think of it, they are the same lugs, we just changed one's function by back feeding the panel.


Shower head with nice conical flow I've tried three replacement shower heads from the DIY store (to replace the one that broke, which unfortunately was thrown out by spouse).

I'd like one that makes a wide conical flow, so that my arms receive warm water while showering, without having to move from side to side when I'm standing under the shower.

Also, I'd like it to spray the water with a lot of force.  The shower heads I've tried so far only spray with force from very specific nozzles.  I'd like it to spray with force from all the nozzles.  That way, I'm hopeful the hot water would last for two people to shower one after the other.  The one that broke did fine, both in the pressure and the wide cone.

What descriptors should I look for, to find the right kind?

I have found that a Navy Shower Head does a great job of wide spray (for hitting your entire body at once), good pressure (for washing hair), and it's rated low-flow so you should be able to get 2 hot showers back-to-back (provided you don't take 3-hour showers).

There are a few items called "Navy Shower Head"--this is the one I'm referring to: https://www.build.com/delta-52652-pk-shower-head/s244417?uid=1907341 You should be able to find it at most big-box home improvement stores and online.


Caulk or Grout the base of a toilet? I recently re-tiled my bathroom floor and removed the toilet to do so. I noticed that the builders had used grout around the base of the toilet when I was removing it and demoing the tile. Should I use grout or caulk around the base of the toilet? I've read some things that would suggest caulk is a better option.

The toilet is installed with the appropriate wax ring and is working fine. I do notice the slightest rocking if I push on the toilet. I'm guessing this is due to the floor not being completely level. The flange bolts are as tight as I'm willing to go with them w/o risk of cracking the porcelain.

Will the grout/caulk help to completely stabilize the toilet as well?

Code requires toilets to be caulked at the floor, that, IMO is a mistake. If the toilet does develop a leak, it will be restricted under the toilet and the subfloor, and may leak for a while before it is detected. So much for that.

The toilet can be shimmed to keep it from rocking. Because of the rocking, what is not leaking now eventually will leak.
The grout that the other installer used will act as shims to keep it from rocking as well, but back at the "if it leaks" issue. If you feel you need to seal it in some way, do not seal it 100%. Leave an inch or so not sealed at the back where it is not noticeable, that way it will look good and water can get out if need be.


Does galvanized metal rust where the zinc is gone? I'm planning to use some galvanized steel spike-nails for an outdoor project. I'd use seven inch nails and Nine Inch Nails* for the project, but I can't find them in odd sizes. So, my idea is to buy ten inch nails and saw them down to the desired lengths.

The catch is that sawing the nails would leave a large surface of steel without the galvanizing. Without the protective zinc, will that bare steel rust?

I know from chemistry that any zinc that's electrically connected to iron should protect the iron through cathodic protection, but does practical experience match the science? In other words, will the bare iron rust even though it's not supposed to?

* Capitalization intentional for comic relief.

I don’t want to give you “The Slip” so I’m doing this “With Teeth” in, but even Kurt Cobain and the Foo Fighters knows that when you strike a galvanized coated nail with a hammer, some galvanizing comes off and the head of the nail will rust quicker than the rest of the nail. So, yes, it will rust when cut off.