Why does my subpanel have 4 wires feeding into the lugs? Background: This is a sub-panel for my pool equipment (filter pump, cleaner pump, and pool light). The wires coming from the main panel come in through the bottom, and the wires going out the left side go to the timer box for the pumps. Note that the ground and neutral wires are bonded on the same bus. My understanding is that this was allowed under old code, so it's grandfathered in. I really have no other way to handle this because I can't easily run a fourth wire.

Question: Can you explain the wires coming from the main panel into the sun-panel? There are two black wires going into each of two lugs, and then two bare wires going to the ground bus. All of this is coming from a double-pole 60A breaker in the main panel.

Adding some more info...

This is the pool timer box to the left of the sub-panel.  Yes, both pumps are 240V as far as I can tell.  The 120V circuit goes down into the GFCI outlet, and back out and over to a regular toggle light switch and the pool light.  I don't know how all of this passed the home inspection before I bought the house a few years ago, but it has all been working fine.

This is my main panel.  The sub-panel for the pool equipment is hooked up to the double-pole 60A breaker.  No sign of the aluminum wire anywhere, and there is no other sub-panel anywhere on my property.  My main panel was put in when I bought the house, and it replaced a main panel and a sub-panel right next to it.  I suspect that things got a little screwy as a result of that.

The reason that all of this came up was that I wanted to add a couple of regular 120V z-wave switches for the pool light and the filter pump.  The booster pump is no longer in use.  I thought I was going to need a 240V contactor in conjunction with one of the z-wave switches for the 240V filter pump, but now it sounds like this whole setup is screwed up.

Adding a couple more pictures for clarity...

The conduit coming out of the top of the meter box goes up through the roof.  That's where the main service line from the pole comes in.  The conduit coming out of the bottom of the meter box (I believe) goes to the pool pump panel.  The conduit looks to be 2 inches in diameter.  Note that my main panel is on the other side of the wall from the meter box.  The transfer switch for my generator is on the let.  Don't mind the AT&T box on top of the meter box.

This is the sub-panel attached to a concrete fence at the back of my property.  It feeds into the Intermatic timer box to the left.  The conduit going into the bottom of the sub-panel is where the feeder wires are coming from.  The two lines coming out of the bottom of the timer box go to the two pumps.  The conduit coming of out the left side of the timer box goes to a GFCI outlet and switch for the pool light.  You may have noticed that there's no longer a GFCI outlet on the bottom of the timer box.  I removed it, and put the outlet and the light switch in a single box on the left (out of the picture).

This is the automatic transfer switch for the backup generator.  I don't see anything interesting in there that might be tied to the pool pump panel.

You have a 240V-only panel. It does not support neutral.

It provides hot-hot-ground, which is perfectly modern and legal.  It is adequate to power any 240V load.  It cannot power a 120V or 120V-240V split load.

It is not a 120/240 split phase panel that has been grandfathered. If it was, it would have neutral and not ground.

I gather the big flexible black cordage goes to a 240V pump.  It appears the wire colors have faded.  It would have been correctly tapped hot-hot-ground, and black, taped white and green are legit colors for that connection.

Looking at the updated photos, yes - this is an all-240 setup.  Note that only the black and ...?orange? Wires actually connect to anything.

Double-taps. NO.

It appears that power visits this panel, then travels onward to another subpanel or point-of-use.

Note how 2 wires are landed on each main lug.  Not allowed unless the lug's instructions specifically say double-tapping is OK. It's especially important to follow instructions when aluminum wire is in use!  So these should come off, and each pole should go to a 3-tap lug, with a short pigtail (in the larger wire size) to go up to these existing lugs.

Instead, if these wires are paralleled from the same supply wires, that is not allowed.  Remove the smaller wire and downbreaker to the ampacity limits of the larger wire.

That 120V doesn't belong there

This is very typical of 240V-only panels: along comes some clown who wants 120V, and doesn't care that it's a 240V-only panel.  (many are unable to conceptualize that there even is such a thing as a 240V-only panel, they want to install a 120V load, therefore every panel is 120V!)  And so they just "slap in a breaker" and go ahead and bootleg neutral off the ground wire.

This work should be torn out on sight.  There should never be current flowing on ground, except when a ground fault is occurring.

Edit: looking at your pix, that's plainly what happened, the 120V GFCI was an afterthought and he just bootlegged neutral because he didn't know any better.  Into the trash it goes.

Dealing with those 120V loads

They never should have been installed in the first place, and need to be replaced.

Lamps are easy: many modern LED fixtures and most fluorescent ballasts will work on a range of 110-277 volts.  Wire them up 240 and done.

For pumps and water handling bits, you can get 240V motors or 240V versions of the appliances. (no 120/240 split phase).

If all else fails, small 120V loads can be supplied by a 240V/120V isolation transformer.   Using a cheaper "step-up/step-down transformer" is very tricky and I don't recommend it.

Edit: That GFCI+receptacle - gone.  If you have a compelling reason to need a 120V convenience outlet there, you'll need to pull an entirely new 120V circuit from the main panel.  Or alternately, convert this subpanel to split-phase by pulling a neutral from the main panel and replacing this subpanel with a suitable one with a separate neutral and ground bus.

If you continue the light as a 240V light, you'll need to change the white wire to a color.  You are not allowed to tape white wires when the work is in conduit.

GFCI

I can't quite make what I'm seeing in this panel.  It looks like a 4-space GE Qline panel, and you have elected to install their half-width "double stuff" breakers, filling 1.5 of the 4 spaces.

There has to be GFCI protection in here somewhere.  It may be at the main panel on the 60A.  This is one thing you shouldn't try to "grandfather".

The problem is GFCIs are bulky breakers.  They don't come in double-stuff.  So you'll need 2 whole spaces (those occupied, plus the empty half-space to the left) just for the 30A pump 2-pole GFCI.

Since it's a 240V-only panel, all breakers must be 2-pole.  That will leave you 2 spaces for one more 2-pole GFCI, and that will have to power everything else.  I suppose you could use a 15A or 20A based on which wire sizes you have installed.  As far as outlets, the same rules apply to 240V/15A as 120V/15A; you can have as many outlets as you want shared on the circuit.  You'll have 3600W on a 15A circuit, so power won't be a problem.


what size should gas grill burner flames be i have a charbroil 'red' grill. it used to get very hot. now I  hold my hand over cooking surface for 5 to 10 seconds. not good.

yes i tried to reset the regulator based on most internet suggestions

i see nice blue flames coming out of the tiny holes but they are only about 1/4 to 3/8 inch in length . moving knobs from low ot high seems to have this small effect.

yes, there is a hairline crack on the gas tube (its acts like extra holes i guess in that blue flame comes out of that too)

Should there be much larger flames at high setting?

A hairline crack? which also burns gas?

So you should STOP using this at once, it is NOT safe.

Get it repaired by a competent person.


Switched outlet on when lights are off I have a 3 way switch working the lights in my son’s room. The box has a single 14/3 cable running to the switch. Id like to put an outlet directly below it the would ideally be always on. I can't figure out how I'd accomplish this without the switch also working the outlet. If it does have to be a switched outlet can I wire it so the outlet is on when the lights are off? I'd like to put a night light in the outlet.

A 14/3 with a 3-way switch is going to be:

Traveler 1
Traveler 2
Either hot (in) or switched hot (out)

That means you don't have a neutral, which is a must for a receptacle (switched or not).
However, there might be a solution if you can use smart switches. Many 3-way smart switches only need one traveler. You could, potentially, install smart switches and then rewire things so that you have:

Traveler
Hot
Neutral

and pass the hot & neutral on to a receptacle. Doing this could get a bit confusing, so if you want to look into this, before you disconnect anything, upload pictures of the wires going into each of the 3-way switches.


How do I patch an in-ground ceramic drain pipe? So tonight I was digging a post hole for a new fence tonight. And as I'm digging the hole I hear a hollow thump, crack. Behold:

This pipe is a downspout drain pipe that runs from the front of my house to the back yard.

So ideas on how to fix it? Can I just put a piece of PVC pipe on top and cover it back up and call it good? I'm worried the PVC will move on top of it over time.

Ideas?

Get a large diameter PVC pipe, cut it in half lengthwise on a bandsaw so it has a sort of shallow C shape cross section. Clean out the broken bits from the clay pipe and use the PVC pipe to cover the hole. Use some adhesive to keep it in place.


Loss of power to several circuits at the same time without tripping the breaker I have been experiencing flickering lights from time to time in the last few months. Now I am losing power to 4 circuits at once without the breakers being tripped. This is happening intermittently for several days now, maybe a couple of weeks as my children advise.
I have checked the breakers and they seems to work fine. It has been hard to trouble shoot because I have not been home when this has happened. Or, by the time I got to the panel the power restore itself?
However today I was home all day, so I removed the panel cover to be able to access it should the problem arise. When it did I ran to verify the breakers. all OK! When I took a reading of the "5" circuits that all lost power at the same time, I gor a reading of 24VAC at all of them? The rest of the circuite were reading 124VAC. When the power mysterious turned back on, the readings at the same 5 breakers was 119VAC.
It should be noted that all the problem circuits are on one leg of the panel? But not all the circuits in said leg are failing, or maybe not demanding power at that time?

What could be causing this anomolie??
Thank-you

PS. Our Power Utility "Power Supplier" has change the outdoor power meters from an older type to a newer smart meter last fall.

Sounds like you have a problem in your panel. How old is it? Sounds like it could be a split-buss panel and only the "lighting main" fed breaker are being affected.

In my strong opinion you need to have a qualified/real electrician (ie: NOT a "handyman") come out and check it. This is typically NOT a DIY fix.


Yellowing around crown molding I live in an older home (built in 1929) in NJ and one of bedrooms has yellowing showing around all the crown molding. The room is below the attic and the attic is insulated above the ceiling. I don’t think it is a water leakage issue. I don’t notice this issue in the other two bedrooms which also have crown molding.

What causes this yellowing?
How to I get rid of it and prevent it from coming back?

Thank you for your help!

Most likely, if you are certain it is NOT from moisture it can be the simple fact that it is some inexpensive painters caulk that was never painted.

In a commercial settings ie. eateries, we use clear silicone.

You could simply try painting it.


Can Home AC Electrical Whip Cause Compressor Failure? I have an 11 year old Arcoaire ac unit. The other day we heard a pop sound and noticed a little smoking coming from the electrical whip casing. The part of the casing with the issue is about half between the cutoff box and the actual ac unit.
We noticed a small split in the casing, and this is where more popping and little smoke was coming from. Fearing an electrical fire, I quickly shot off power at the breaker.
My question is, does this sound like an issue that can damage or break the compressor? I don't want to replace the compressor, or likely the whole unit, if it's just an issue of replacing the wiring and electrical whip.
Any knowledge or advice would be most welcomed. Thanks.

Yes, your whip is bad and has shorted out. Since the casing is split it needs to be replaced. Your best bet is to remove the whip from the unit and bring it to an electrical supply store for replacement. You could try a home store but most of those people don't know how to change a light bulb.
Once you remove the whip, try pulling the wires out of the casing and look for the burnt wire as confirmation to the problem.


How do I troubleshoot a water-heater? Lately our hot water has been running out very quickly, a lot quicker than it used to.  I have an Whirlpool electric water heater with 2 elements with the top element has a reset switch.

I followed this guide to troubleshoot.

I checked the resistance of each element by removing a wire from each and measuring across the connectors for the element and I got 13 ohms on each one.  I restored power to the unit and tested the voltage across the top element by turning the bottom thermostat to the lowest temp and the top one to the highest temp and got no voltage across the top element.  I reversed the thermostats and tested the bottom element and got ~240 Volts on the bottom element so I figured the top controls were bad as the article indicated.

I replaced the top thermostat, making sure to label all the wires and reconnect them in the right place, but I'm still getting the same behavior, no voltage across the top element.

Is it possible that the top element is bad?  I'm not sure what else to do at this point other than call a plumber.

UPDATE:
Apparently it is still not working.  I did drain the tank, but the water looked pretty clear and it didn't seem to help any.  Here is the extra info on the water heater:

The year is 2002.
The hot water runs out about 20-30 minutes.  It used to last probably an hour at least.
It's a 40-gallon tank.

You may have already done this but not sure from your question. When testing the thermostats be aware that you must test the input and output sides. A thermostat is really just a switch. First be sure you have 240VAC on the input sides across the hot leads and 120VAC from each leg to ground. Now connect to the load or element side across the element and look for 240VAC as you turn on and off the thermostat. If you have an AMPROBE, confirm current flow when the thermostat is turned to the highest temp position, indicating current flow through the element, and conversely no current when the temp is satisfied. If the voltages are good on both sides of the thermostat, but no current, it is safe to assume the element is bad. If you do not get the changes in voltage at the load side when operating the thermostat min to max etc. the thermostat is bad.
Have you drained the heater? Large amounts of sediment can indicate fouled elements or a partially plugged dip/transfer tube. Be sure to turn off power before draining and refill the tank before turning electricity back on.
 You can also find a toll free number for tech assistance online for all Whirlpool products and should be able to reach a real person in tech assistance that will help walk you through it. not sure if they will do that for the user, but they do that for us contractors all the time.  Good luck.


Trying to replace the adjuster screw on a screen door -- low-profile threaded screw insert and bolt (identification needed) On my sliding patio screen door there is an height adjuster held in place by flat-profile screw inserts. I'd like to obtain more of these threaded bolts and inserts, but I have a nomenclature issue where I can't identify them precisely.

The bottom and top rails of the frame allow sliding up and down to adjust the overall height of the door. The height setting is locked with a phillips-head bolt and screwed insert which looks like a rivet. this is the back view.

What type of screw is that?

It looks like the insert for a rivet nut (rivnut), but the lip is larger. I could assemble something like it with rivnuts, but I'd need to buy the corresponding crimping tool.

It could be a Chicago screw post (used to bind leather pieces or photo album books), but I've not been able to find any Chicago screw posts that are of matching dimensions and material (I'd need M4-9mm screw with 10mm insert). If there is a generic name that captures both rivnuts and chicago posts, I don't know it.

Any fastener which is slim would probably work (the frame needs to be as thin as possible to slide freely around the glass panel frame). I'll probably just end up using a slim nut and bolt cut to length if I can't find out what it is.

They are most often called a "binding post", at least that is what the fastener suppliers in the U.S. generally sell them as. I have heard people call them "Chicago nuts" but not often.

As a side note, those adjustable sliding screen doors are difficult to make work properly and of poor quality. Do yourself a favor and get a custom made heavy duty door, with a frame made of extruded aluminum. They are worth the investment over the long haul, provided they are sized correctly and installed and maintained properly. At least that has been my experience.


How do I connect a new trap to an old cast iron pipe? I replaced a lavatory in the bathroom with a new faucet and new trap, but the old 1-1/4 trap is connected to a cast iron pipe with led through the wall. I cut the old trap out, and I used a 1-1/4 connector and it is okay. I'd like to replace the old piece of trap that is leading into the cast iron pipe with a straight PVC pipe and an adapter. What is the best way to do that?

You would normally cut out the piece right before - 8 inches or so before the main stack.  You then connect PVC to cast iron with a coupling.


Maximum breaker on NMD7 8/3 wire? My mother in law recently replaced her 4 burner Frigidaire range and is often popping her breaker when she is cooking for a large party - ie 4 burners going and oven.

I checked the specs for the range and they suggest a 50A breaker.  The electrical circuit however is a 40A breaker.  The cable is a cu Phillips NMD7 8/3 Nylon 900 300V.  The run is about 40-50ft, not in conduit - parts are in unfinished ceiling, other parts behind acoustic tile.  But either way, plenty of ventilation.

From what I've read,I can put a 50A breaker on a 8/3 THHN cable but I don't see that rating (THHN) printed anywhere.

Is the NMD7 nylon 900 THHN?  Or does it need to be specifically indicated? What does the 900 stand for?

Is the only choice to have a new 6/3 cable run?

In Canada, NMD 8/3 is allowed for up to a 40A circuit, NMD 6/3 is required for 50 A (Actually NMD 6/3 has an ampacity up to 55A, but try to find a 55A breaker…). Sorry, Eric.

Additional info: You may find some ampacity tables that list NMD8/3 as having an ampacity of 55A, but these tables assume a 90˚C conductor temp, and the code says you need to use the 75˚C ampacity when connecting to terminals rated to 75˚C, which includes all domestic circuit breakers and the NEMA 14-50 receptacles used for ranges and stoves.


Exterior mirror to bring more light to a window I have a window that doesn't get very much light.  Perpendicular to it there is a wall of the house, which gets more light.  I would like to put a mirror on this wall to get more light on that window.  Is there any specific type of mirror to buy for this?  In particular, is there something that withstands the elements well, and do I need a particular curvature for the mirror or a flat mirror?

You can get vinyl adhesive mirror film (often from theatrical stage equipment suppliers) whcih may be cheaper and more robust than glass mirror when applied to a suitable exterior substrate (eg plastic correx or foamex board)

A tinted mirror might reduce birds flying into it, and be aware that a mirror or lens reflecting direct sunlight onto furnishings has been known to start fires.


Can I fix heat regulator (burner switch) of electric range? So the burners stay on no matter what setting - low or high. I opened and found the switches (heat regulator) were the problem.

The metal contact of the green board is broken because it's too thin.

Thus, no connection between #1 and #2 (picture below). The electric range could not turn off the burner when it reached the desired temperature.

A. The metal contact at #1 is sharp. I wonder if I can bend the tip to make better contact.

B. At #2, I'm thinking about putting some solder there.

Will these fixes cause potential problems?

I don't want to buy a new switch because it will definitely fail in the same manner. (I don't know why engineer designed it this way. If this is the case, I blame sale management)

OK, what you're suggesting will probably work. I have similar repairs on "ON & OFF" switches..BUT... The contact at #1 looks like a limiting device to break the circuit in an overheat situation. I wouldn't be messing with that. The problem as I see it is the burners wouldn't turn off. So if your fix doesn't work, the problem will return when you lest expect it..... Is it worth it?  How old it the range?  I'd be, and have done many times, buying a new switch. Many times the internal designs of these switches are improved and you'd never know it by the outside appearance so the existing problem you have might never occur again. My advice is to think twice about messing with range/oven switches. Good luck.


Tell the difference between mortar and grout? I had a contractor come in and lay new tile in my home. When the job was done, there were 2 or 3 tiles that were uneven and we asked the tile setter to chip out those tiles and replace them.

For those 2 or 3 tiles, I suspect (for various reasons) that the tile setter used mortar (Versabond thinset) between the replaced tile and its neighbors rather than grout.

How can I tell for sure?

Color would be one indicator, other than that in the short term there really isn't a way to tell the difference because grout and mortar are very similar the only big difference is that mortar has lime and grout does not. Over time mortar will/can show signs of efflorescence, a white chalky looking film.


What's the standard height for an outlet? I am installing outlets in my patio room.  What is the standard height recommended above the ground for these to be installed?

The direct answer to your question is "There is no standard". Outlets can be installed at whatever height is comfortable for the intended use.  The only NEC requirement is that you must be within 6 feet of an outlet along any wall (12' between outlets, A unbroken wall space of 2 feet or more including space measured around a corner requires an outlet. ref. NEC 210.52.A.2. A common height for a wall outlet is between 12 to 16 inches to the bottom of the device. In rare instances, outlets are still installed in baseboards and in the floor with proper box/covers.


Getting water to external spigot I live in an older house in a colder climate (Boston).

Spring is almost here and we're planning on doing some gardening. We have an external spigot, although it's been defunct since we moved in ~2yrs ago (a rental).

My first thought was to try and find the internal valve and see if it had maybe been turned off one winter. After a little investigating I found out that there's no pipe connected to the spigot - it simply cuts off after going about an inch inside the house (picture attached).

The area where it enters the house is close to the ceiling in the basement bathroom, almost directly above the toilet. I'm wondering if it's possible and how much of a task it would be to run a pipe from the spigot to perhaps the line where the toilet is getting water.

Thanks!

Toilets are typically supplied using 1/2" pipe, while it's common to use 3/4" to supply a spigot. You can certainly tee off the toilet supply and feed a spigot, though you might not quite get the flow you're expecting.  Should be fine for watering flowers, vegetables, etc. Though may come up short if you're trying to water the lawn with a sprinkler. You'll also probably notice a pressure drop off, if somebody flushes the toilet.

If you end up supplying a spigot (however you do it), I'd recommend installing a new anti-siphon frost proof sillcock. The one that's there looks like it's seen better days.


Is this a valid way to add an electrical outlet? I've got a feed from my electrical panel in the garage to a single outlet inside the house (for the entertainment center).  This was installed by an electrician back in 2009.  Through the garage, the wires run through conduit until it reaches a wall where it punches through and continues via romex under the house in the crawlspace.  I've moved the entertainment center and want to branch that feed to serve both the existing outlet (now unused) and a new one near where the entertainment center now sits.

I'm wondering if I'm able to simply wire nut a 2nd length of romex onto the existing junction where the conduit meets up with the romex.  This would result in a Y at that point, with one part of the Y going to the existing outlet, and the other part going to the new outlet.

I'm not sure if this is acceptable practice or if it would meet code.  Most examples of wiring I've seen have the outlets run in a single string rather than branched.  If it's not valid, is my only good option running a new line from the existing outlet to where the new one wants to be?

If there is a junction box where the cable in the conduit connects to the cable not in the conduit, then you can make your connection there. Otherwise, you'll want to run a cable from the existing receptacle to the new location.

If there is a junction not in a box at the end of the conduit, fire your electrician, and find a new one to do future work.


CPVC vs PEX in new home My old house built in the 70s had galvanized pipe which developed small leaks and we replaced it with PEX pipe. It was a two story house. The new house we are buying is three  story and has CPVC. I was told that it was installed because it is cheaper than copper and they were unable to install PEX due to it being three stories. Why is PEX not able to be installed in a three story house and is there more risk of CPVC developing problems than PEX or copper?

Why is PEX not able to be installed in a three story house

The Building Codes require different electrical and plumbing beginning with 3 stories above grade. Many multifamily dwellings in the past decades skirted this code by building the first story half in the ground and two stories after that. There are not very many three story residences but apparently the one you are buying is one of them.

  and is there more risk of CPVC developing problems than PEX or copper?

No, CPVC has been used for decades and is a reliable and cheaper alternative to copper and as reliable and cost effective as PEX.

Rest easy and enjoy your new home!


What conduit size to residential panel? I am installing a 200 amp panel on back of house fed by meter and disconnect mounted on pole. Plan to run 4/0 aluminum wire maybe 80 to 90ft. Plan is to bury schedule 80 pvc. Charts show 3 inch pipe for 200 amp but boxes in store only have knockouts up to 2.5 So do I reduce at the box?

I have no idea what you're looking at, but no, the NEC does not demand a pipe that fat for a 200A feeder
I have absolutely nary a clue what sources you are looking at, but according to Chapter 9, Table 5A of the 2017 NEC, a 4/0 Al XHHW-2 compact stranded conductor takes up 176.3mm2 of fill.  Multiplying that by four, which is quite conservative as you will see, gives us 705.2mm2 of fill used by the entire feeder, whereas a 2", Schedule 80 PVC conduit has 742mm2 of usable fill area in it as per Chapter 9, Table 4 of the 2017 NEC.  So, clearly, a 2" conduit will suffice according to the NEC; you can upsize to 2.5" if you wish for ease of pulling, but no, you don't need to faff with reducers just to get your conduit to mate to your box.
Note that in all likelihood, you will not be running 4 4/0 wires for this.  The largest Mobile Home Feeder (MHF) quadruplex available is a 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0, and there's also a 4/0-4/0-2/0-4 configuration available; while one could get 4/0-4/0-4/0-4/0 URD, there's no reason to given that Code permits a smaller ground wire and cables with the smaller ground wire are readily available in URD and MHF styles.  If you're actually pulling individual wires, a typical bundle would use 4/0 XHHW-2 Al wires for the hots and neutral, with a 6AWG bare or green (THHN) copper grounding wire in the conduit.


Tile a bit proud because of tile edging I just completed my first backsplash, and overall I'm pretty happy with the result considering it's my first one
One question I have is how could I've avoid that first uneven tile, which is a bit proud on on the left side because of the tile edging thickness (see pictures below). I used a v-notch trowel with mastic. The tile edge is just a 6mm plastic trim. The v-notch trowel didn't leave enough glue to bury the edging thickness as far as I know. Maybe I should have "build-up" that first subway tile a bit?

One approach is to build up more tile mortar/mastic on the second row. Trowel it onto the wall, and also back-butter the tile, but in the perpendicular direction. This gives you more "squish" to work with so you can match the level of the first row.
You could also have rabbeted the edging into the backer board, but that's kind of a messy job.


Intake valve failure (F02) in dishwasher, anything to try? I bought a dishwasher, an Indesit DFP 58T94, and the installers were terrible. They connected the pipes but left without trying because they couldn't open the water valve. They told me it had to be replaced by a plumber. I easily opened by using a pair of plyers.

To my disappointment, the dishwasher is now displaying error F02, which is water intake valve selonoid failure. The failure is also clearly observable as water keeps pouring into the dishwasher even when it's off. It looks like the valve is not closing.

I booked an engineer to come and see it. Indesit/Whirpool completely refuse to give me any useful information other than a mighty holy engineer has to be booked.

I already cut the water supply, disconnected the hose, and checked in the intake filter, which looks clean. Is there anything I can do in the hopes of getting the dishwasher running or is it DOA?

If it says bad solenoid, then it's probably a bad solenoid.  Return it or get an exchange, if it's still under warranty.


Would increasing the size of the A/C duct for my kitchen improve cooling? As part of an ongoing kitchen project, I'd like to relocate the existing a/c register in the ceiling (which is located next to an interior wall) to the center of the room and upsize the duct (and register) to get a better cooling in that area. The kitchen faces east and has two (2) large glass french doors and one very large picture window, so there is a lot of heat transmittance in the mornings during the summer which tends to make it a bit uncomfortable unless the a/c is on full blast. I think if I could get some more air in there and also "wash" the doors/windows better, it would be an improvement especially if cooking and/or entertaining guests.

So the existing duct that supplies the area (11' x 12' kitchen, BTW) is an 8" round galv. rigid duct, that is connected to an 6" x 10" register. The 8" round duct is being fed by a larger branch duct (off the main trunk) that is also supplying another 8" round rigid duct routed to a room on the other side of the wall (dining room).  I haven't been able to measure the branch duct yet, but just running some quick calculations I'm assuming it's at least a 12" round duct or maybe larger (???). I'll try to confirm tonight, but maybe some of the experts on here can make a guess...

In any regard, let's assume it's a 12" round branch duct for arguments sake. My question is: Would it be too much volume/flow if I detached the 2nd 8" round duct from the branch duct, and routed the 12" branch duct directly to a 12" x 12" register in the center of the kitchen? Or would it have to be a larger register? If so, how big? I would obviously make a new connection off the main trunk for the 8" dining room duct, but my main concern is if the branch duct is too large to supply a register or does it just depend on the register and/or register box size? Will it whistle or make lots of noise? Or should I just upsize the 8" duct to a 10" duct and leave everything else the same (i.e. keep the connection to the other 8" duct off the branch duct)?

Unfortunately I don't have the time or budget to hire an HVAC engineer to do an appropriate design, but it doesn't have to come out perfect so just some general advice to get me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. I'm pretty sure the ducting system in the house is already undersized anyway, cause all the ducts have a little whistling/noise as is; But I just don't want something overly obnoxious in the kitchen area if I can avoid it...

Given that this question is 3 years old you probably moved on... But I can make a couple of non-expert suggestions...

The first thing I would look at is shade. Can you add some foil into the windows to cut down the heat in the morning? Or some shade cloth on the outside? I have large sliding doors facing west and in the summer I span some 50% black shade cloth from the eave to the ground about 6' out. One can see through quite fine and it cuts down the heat load tremendously (even with the low-e windows I have). This saves a lot of money too...

WRT your specific question, here is what I would do. I you want to go to a ceiling register, check out https://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Grilles-Registers/Curved-Blade-Grilles/TRUaire-A303-Series-Triple-Deflection-Curved-Blade-Grilles
Click on the links tab and then on the performance data link. You get a table that shows grille size on the left and then performance data across the row keyed by CFM. Take a 10x10 grille, assume you have 200CFM, that means the air "jet" will reach 12ft horizontally ("throw"), and the noise is "NC 30", which is low (there's no lower entry in that table, but other types of grilles/manufacturers go down to NC 20).

Now the other two interesting measurements are at the top of the table, for that register @200CFM you have a "back pressure" of 0.022 "WC and 600fpm face velocity. You probably have something like https://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Grilles-Registers/Grilles/TRUaire-210-Series-Steel-Single-Deflection-Adjustable-Bar-Grilles now, look at the performance info for the 10x6 you have. At 200CFM you have 15' throw (interpolating a bit), 0.026 "WC pressure loss, and 650fpm face velocity. So you would be reducing the pressure by a rather small amount, so you wouldn't get much more air.

Now, if you have an an anemometer to measure wind you could work your way backwards by measuring face velocity. I got a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9SC36A but cheaper will work too. So measure the fpm you have now by holding the anemometer in front of the center of the grille, use the table for the grille you have now to get CFM, then use that to look up the hypothetical new grille to see throw distance and noise level. Note that for ceiling you want curved blades so the air mixes at ceiling level and down't blow straight down on you. You could also go with a round ceiling grille...

If the new grille has lower pressure loss, you will get more CFM, stealing from other outlets. WRT duct, 8" flex doing 200 CFM has a friction loss of 0.024 "WC (http://www.hartandcooley.com/tools/friction-loss-calculator-for-flexible-ducts). Of course I don't know how long your duct is, but it doesn't look like it's going to be a limiting factor, but it may well be in the same range as the grille.

OK, I'm not an expert and an expert would tell you you have to recalculate and rebalance the whole system from scratch if you make a change. And the expert would be right. But you asked how to "wing it, and it doesn't have to be perfect" and I hope that the above gives you a way to make some back-of-the-envelope calculations so you end up in the right ballpark.


How cut 4" wide, 2" deep hole in concrete floor I'm looking for advice on how to efficiently cut a rough hole about 4" diameter and 2" deep in a concrete floor.  My tools are: a new 4.5" angle grinder with a diamond-cup grinding wheel and a diamond blade; a corded hammer drill with 1" masonry bit; an 8 lb. sledge hammer; cold chisels; and miscellaneous others.  I can buy additional tools if there's a good reason, but they wouldn't get much use beyond this one task.

Background: I'm shaving down some high spots on a concrete floor, as preparation to pouring self-leveling cement. I'm experimenting with using my self-leveling laser to continuously illuminate those high spots, so I know where to shave and when I can stop.  Unfortunately my laser device emits its horizontal beam several inches above the bottom of the device, so even placing the device at the lowest spot of the floor causes the beam to run about 1.5" above the desired elevation.

As a workaround to the beam-elevation issue, I'm experimenting with creating a hole in the existing concrete that's wide and deep enough to hold the laser device and for its laser to run along the desired elevation. (I'll either let the self-leveling cement fill these holes, or maybe pre-fill them with something like Quikrete.)

I've successfully done this in one part of the basement, using just the angle grinder and diamond cup. (This was my first time using an angle grinder.) It took about one hour to make a suitable hole, but once I had the hole the technique of using the laser continuously worked great.

Then... I tried to make my second hole more quickly / efficiently.  I first tried using my hammer drill and 1" masonry bit, but that was pretty slow-going, perhaps because the bit diameter was ambitious for that drill.  So I switched to my first angle-grinder and diamond cup. I tried to be more aggressive by pressing down harder, and by coming in at an angle (as though I was cutting rather than grinding).  Unfortunately I asked too much of the angle grinder, and about 10 minutes into this approach it emitted the smoke-puff-of-death from its vent.

I made sure my replacement angle grinder has a beefier motor (11 vs. 7.5 amp), and now I know better about how to avoid cooking an angle grinder.  But this could potentially add time to the task of creating these holes in the floor, since I may need occasional breaks to let the motor cool.

Just cut a series of parallel slices about a quarter inch apart. This should take barely a couple minutes with a diamond wheel. Since you're patching anyway, overcut somewhat so that you have full-depth cuts throughout the area needed for the laser device.

Now take a cold chisel and hammer and just snap them off. Start by driving the chisel downward to break the first plate off, then at an angle near the bottom of each plate.

If your grinder doesn't give you 2" of cut depth, do the work in two stages. I can't imagine the whole process taking more than five minutes.


Do I use dirt or gravel to fill around a cement form for a fence post? Background:
I know you're not supposed to dig a really wide hole for a fence post hole. But the previous owner of my home did not know that. He or she dug a really wide hole, filled it with a bunch of pavers and other junk, and poured a really big piece of concrete.

The fence post broke last month and I'm finally getting around to fixing it. So I dug out all the concrete and am using a tube to make it a little more manageable.

Question: What do I fill around the cylinder form? Dirt or gravel? I'm afraid that if I use dirt, it won't be compact enough and won't offer enough support. Or maybe I should use sand or something. I don't know.

Note: I was able to get about 8 inches deeper than the previous owner into really solid ground, so the form is stuck in there very tightly. Also, this will be for a metal fence post.

I ended up just putting the dirt back and tamping it down really hard with some random tools b/c I don't have a tamper. First I used the curved end of a large crowbar. Then I used a sledge hammer. I just filled in w/ dirt about 6 inches and then pounded all around for about 3 minutes. Then filled w/ dirt again. Not sure if this was "the" right way, but seems to be working really well. Very little wiggle room between the form and the ground.


hot water pressure in bathtub Works fine through rest of the house. Its a mobile home n the water pressure was fine until water lines froze. Have replaced tub fixture n checked for leaks. Anything else that I can check

Call the Plumber back in. Your symptom is indicative of an Anti-Scald Valve problem, since it's just that fixture. It could be that the new fixture wasn't flushed out of manufacturing debris & that ruined the fixture. Maybe this valve just needs adjusting or wasn't set at the factory. Or, maybe it's just plain defective or on recall & must have the cartridge replaced.


Using sheathing as siding? I'm building a rustic cabin this summer and looking to keep construction cheap and simple.

Are there sheathing materials that can double as siding that folks would recommend?  The cabin is small, 12'x 16' and I want to build 2ft on center with rough cut 2x6s.

I've consider T1-11 as an option, though I've started to notice a lot sheds around with pretty crappy, weather beaten looking T1-11, so I am now questioning the quality of that product. I live in Vermont, which is pretty wet and cold. Other ideas I have considered:

3/4" exterior rated plywood, trimmed to cover seams and with some vertical strips, for kind of a faux-board and batten look
Shiplap nailed straight onto studs.  I have an old garage at home done this way, which is still standing (seems like this was a common practice around here way back when). A sawmill near me makes shiplap that is cheaper per board foot than plywood.

Other ideas welcome. Thanks!

Although this is asking for product recommendations I think discussing different types is ok. I have not used Hardie Board without sheathing but believe it is listed for use without sheathing. A buddy of mine really likes the cement panels they make. I have not used it but he started using it ~10 years back I have used their plank products when properly installed it looks good for decades. (It really holds the paint better than wood products on the work I have done).


Reconnecting sink drain My bathroom sink got severely clogged up. I'm a structural engineer, but I have no aptitude whatsoever to DIY. This, however, I felt was within my reach, so I decided to give it a try. (Also, I'm Brazilian, so forgive any incorrect terminology)

I unscrewed the trap, removed it from under the sink and removed the snake of gunk that'd completely clogged the inlet.

My problem is in putting everything back together. This is what I have:

The only variable I'm unsure of is the rubber ring (seen around the top of the pipe on the first picture). I don't remember where it was when I removed the pipe. In the picture, it's pushing up against a lip at the end of the pipe, but it may not actually belong there.

If I place it over the pipe, trying to align the pipe, the ring and the drain before screwing everything with the nut, it leaks (I tried some three times).

If I place it where it is shown in the picture (beneath the lip), I have some trouble getting the nut past it (I have to turn the nut around and it slowly moves past the ring). Eventually I get it into position, but after I screw it onto the sink and open the tap, it leaks again (though it takes a few seconds). (I also tried this three or four times).

I've done some googling but, though I've found dozens of links and videos on replacing the strainer, this seems to be so trivial no one's bothered.

Many videos mention a gasket at the mouth of the trap, but it's always shown embedded into the nut. I'm unsure if this is a different mechanism or if this ring is that gasket which has come loose. The latter would mean my attempt with the ring where it is shown should work, but perhaps I'm missing something (should I use putty or thread seal tape around the drain?).

The ring goes where you have it and you're over-tightening. These things need barely more than what you can do with your hands. (There's really no pressure to contain with a sink drain.) The ring should stay inside the nut and seal the pipe to the nut. The nut seals against the bowl threads.


outdoor gfi stopped working I had an electrician come and change my outdoor outlet. He replaced it with a weatherproof GFI. It worked for 1 day and stopped working. I called him numerous times to come back but he would mot come. I got very frustrated and decided to see for my self what the problem was. It seems everything is fine as in the picture. My question is, from the picture is the wiring done properly ( I do not have any experience with this). IF yes I plane to purchase a new outlet and change it.

From the wiring, it looks like the power comes from some location upstream (toward the electrical panel) and then also carries power downstream (to other receptacles - outside ones)?   That is fairly normal for most receptacles, this is "chain style" wiring.

Now, GFCIs have both LINE and LOAD terminals which do different things.  There is a piece of tape across the LOAD terminals saying (in as many words) "DO NOT USE. For wizards only."  Your electrican heeded that advice. All wires are on the LINE side.

Now an electrician should be a wizard, but not all are, and also there are sometimes good reasons for not protecting downline loads.  For instance there may be faulty wiring or appliance downstream that was causing the GFCI to trip, so he chose not to protect the downstream part.

He also used a quality GFCI that used "screw-and-clamp" type terminals, which allow 2 wires to go on one screw.  If you buy regular receptacles, buy this kind - they are quite convenient and cost about $3 each (instead of 60 cents - no big).

Let's go back to the "chain" concept where receptacles are usually fed in a chain starting at the service panel.  (A "tree" layout is also perfectly fine, where power splits off in 2+ directions.)   Somewhere there'll be a receptacle before this one - i.e. one step closer to the panel.  Or not.  And another, or not. Etc.  All the way back to the panel.

It's very likely your problem is actually in one of those. It's likely you'll find a loose wire.  If you read that link about backstabs vs. screw-and-clamp, you'll know how to spot a backstab.  Those are troublesome, so I replace them on sight. Twist the wire out gently but persistently, no need to cut and lose length.

I don't like leaving nice things out in the rain. With GFCIs outdoors, I prefer to find (or create) a receptacle location indoors, fit the GFCI there, and use "wizard" skills and the LOAD screws to protect all the outdoor receptacles.


Structural (cored) bricks for a patio? I have the opportunity to purchase some pallets of structural bricks, the cored ones with three holes in them.  I want to use them to build a patio but I live in Ohio where the winters can get harsh.  What, if any, would be the best route to take for this project?  Ground is clay.  Base of sand or gravel?  How thick? Bricks laid with holes exposed or flat face?  If exposed holes, would it be safe to sweep sand into the holes to fill them up or possibly dry concrete then water it?  Thanks for taking the time to answer.

As long as you have a sound base, packed crushed gravel and then sand, you could lay them either way. The process will be similar to laying flagstone/patio bricks. Be sure to stagger them so they can lock each other in place. Do a quick search on either. The base is key to a successful and long lasting patio in areas where freezing is common. 3-4 in of packed crushed gravel and a inch of sand would probably be fine. Also, you will want some kind of edging to keep the brick from moving. If you want to fill the holes you can do the sand but you'll get weeds coming up from them. If you want grass instead you could get grass plugs and stuff the holes with them. If you don't want anything growing in them either polymer sand or concrete will work fine. Concrete being the more economical choice. The way you described for the concrete is fine for the holes. For between the bricks polymer sand would be ideal choice. First do the concrete and then wait a few days for the sand. Be sure to read the instructions on polymer sand first. Stuff is a pain if it rains on you in the middle of the project so pick a day that is clear.


Hot Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve Hissing and Discharging Water after Draining Tank I just drained the hot water heater, as I do every year (using the following video for instructions: https://youtu.be/qqaehhGYV_I). This time, the pressure relief valve had a slight hiss after I refilled the tank and closed the valve.

I noticed today the discharge valve on the side of the house is spewing hot water continously from the hot water heater.

Do I need to replace the pressure relief valve, or what is the issue?

Sometimes when you open older valves, they get stuck open. If you can't get the valve to reset, you'll have to replace it.


Can I hang a TV with one stud and drywall anchors? I have read several questions on here regarding this topic but my situation is slightly unique.

I have a TV mount that is about 20" wide.  The studs in my wall are 24" apart.  I am mounting a 55" tv.  The tv weighs 53 lbs and the mount is at most 20 lbs.  The mount does swivel so it might be pulled on to swivel the tv.

The way I see it I have 2 options.  First, put a piece of 3/4" ply wood into the studs and mount the tv on the ply wood.  Or the second is a little easier, I can mount the TV into 1 stud and use heavy duty anchors on the other side of the mount.  The anchors I have say they will hold up to 110 lbs.  So 2 screws into the anchors and 2 screws into the stud.  It seems like this will work, but I don't want to take chances with the TV.

Please advise.

EDIT***
It is a steel stud.  So I bought drywall toggles rated to 110 lbs.  I am going to propose the following and ask what people think.  There are 8 holes in the mount.  What if I use the drywall toggles to mount the TV in the 2 holes nearest the center of the mount, then use Drywall anchors with a high weight rating in the other 6 holes.  Between 8 anchors/toggles totaling almost 900 lbs with 2 of them mounted into a steel beam seems to me that it would be sufficient.  I'd also comment that I have no intention of using the swivel feature.

Do not use drywall anchors to hang a TV that large on a swivel mount. If it was a mount that didn't have motion, I might say that's acceptable, but not with a swivel mount.

You will need to use wood in some form to add the necessary strength.

Plywood can be attached to the wall studs using 3-1/2" lag bolts with fender washers. To provide a clean finish, the drywall can be cutout and the opening filled with the plywood. Then tape and mud the joints. Sand the surface smooth, prime, and paint. The plywood will be barely noticeable if done right. Be sure to match the plywood thickness to the drywall thickness.

If you do not want to remove any drywall, the plywood can be mounted directly over the drywall. You will need to use at least a 4" lag bolt in this case to account for the extra depth of the drywall. The plywood can be finished with a routed edge, sanded, primed, and painted for a finished look, if desired.

A final option for a truly hidden mount would be to open the wall by removing the drywall. Then install 2"x4" crossbracing between the studs at the correct locations for your TV mount. Replace the drywall, tape and mud the joints, sand, prime, and paint. The bracing is now hidden in the wall and you can attach the mount to the bracing.


Is there a minimum distance required between holes in the ceiling dry wall to prevent in cracks or weak in between areas? I am installing recessed lights to my living room. The problem is, there are ceiling speakers already placed where I want the lights to go. So I now have to put the lights close to the speakers as much as possible. Is there a minimum distance from one hole to another that I should keep in mind to prevent weakening of the integrity of the dry wall in-between the holes?

as long as all of these are true, you should be good to go:

your recessed cans are properly anchored to ceiling joists
your speaker cans are also anchored to joists
your ceiling drywall does not have anything suspended from it, unattached to a joist

you shouldn't have anything pressing down on your ceiling drywall; it's only something that covers up your wooden understructure. you do need to ensure that there's no load pulling down on it, and you should be OK.


Camper outlet to power Shed I have an outdoor electrical outlet that powered my 5th wheel RV trailer. 50 amp style plug. It was installed by a licensed electrical I sold my trailer and want to power a shed. The shed will have a small 25 gallon hot water tank and probably 110 air conditioner along with outlets for tools. Can I run a power cord from a small breaker b and plug int ox

A feeder can't be a branch circuit.

However, this would require AHJ approval, but I suppose you could run your underground line to the shed using normal & proper wiring methods, and surface it right next to the RV receptacle.  Install an inlet there.  Then have a 3 foot long jumper cord that you plug in to the inlet and outlet to feed onward to the shed.  Don't even think of doing this until you've talked to the AHJ and gotten a general sense of whether they'll approve it.

I would more expect the AHJ to ask "how much harder would it be to simply continue the line on to the panel and do it properly?" You'd want to have a pretty good answer for that.

A more viable option would be to remove the RV receptacle altogether, extend off that junction box the feeder to the shed, converting the branch circuit to a feeder. Then from a subpanel in the shed, install the 50A RV receptacle. If this is wired with #6Cu or #4Al, once it's hardwired you can bump the breaker to 60A, or even 70A if it's THWN-in-conduit.


above ground pole support for sail cloth I need to create above ground, mobile "footings" for metal poles to hold sail cloth. I was thinking of a cardboard tubing, filled with concrete to hold a sleeve to insert the pole into that will hold a metal pole. the pole will hold a sail cloth. I am thinking of a 3-4' high, 16" wide concrete tube form. will this be sufficient to hold the poles for sail cloth?

It will be very hard to give guidance as to if a particular size of base will be adequate for your application. Here are some of the variables to consider:

Length of the metal pipe that holds the sail cloth. The longer (and presumed higher) this pole the more lateral leverage it can apply to the base.
Span of the sail cloth overhead. The longer span you have for the sail cloth the more tension it will place on the metal poles and in turn on the base.
Placing the base into the ground. I know that you desire a mobile application but be aware that putting the base assembly into the ground will give it a lot more stability that just letting it sit at ground level. It would also look a lot better than having a huge block of concrete sitting there. I can easily imagine a buried base that would only project enough from the ground level so that the dirt and debris does not easily get into the slide in hole for the metal poles.

Do also consider that even at the size you asked about that these bases would not be so "mobile". Concrete weighs approximately 150 pounds per cubic foot. A 16" (i.e. 1.333 feet) diameter concrete pillar 4 feet high is going to be:

V = 3.1415 x 0.666 feet x 0.666 feet x 4 feet

V = 5.57 cubic feet

Weight = 5.57 x 150 pounds

Weight = 836 pounds

That does not seem particularly mobile to me.


Two-car garage construction I’m looking to build a 2-car detached garage that’s 24ft wide with a loft above for storage. I’ve been searching and I can’t seem to find any lumber that spans 24ft. If I had 2x6 (or 2x8 or 2x12) that are 20ft long (longest I can find) can I stagger them and attach two together? There would be 20ft of overlap that’s attached and 2ft on either side that’s just a single board. Is this safe? Or do I have to do more of a truss system to support the beams?

I suppose there must be a way you could splice dimensional lumber and make a longer span, but... why?
Have a look at wood I-joists. Boise Cascade (BCI), LP Building Products (SolidStart) and Weyerhaeuser (TJI) are three options widely available in the US. (photo below from lpcorp.com)

As a single point of reference, a BCI span table shows spans up to or exceeding 24 ft with joists 11-7/8, 14, or 16 inches deep with spacings of 12, 16, 19.2, or 24 inches on center. You'll have to consult the table yourself to see the effects of joist family, spacing, allowed deflection, and loading.


Cabling for outdoor wireless access point I'm investigating different options for mounting a wireless access point outdoors to cover my back yard better.

One of the options I'm considering is running a cable through the wall and along the outside of the house to the location the AP should be. It's not practical to go straight through the wall to the AP location. This would most likely involve having the cable come through the exterior wall on one side of the house, then go several feet and around a corner to where the AP would be mounted.

I want to do this in a way that is durable, as aesthetically pleasing as possible, and keeps potential for damage to the house to a minimum. I also want to retain as much flexibility as is practical for future upgrades, modifications, etc. I'm thinking that I probably want some sort of weatherproof junction box outside the house where the cable comes out, then run it through conduit to the AP location. Is that the proper way to do this? The instructions in this question seem like they'd work, but is there a better way to do this for my situation?

Be sure to use a shielded Cat5e or Cat6 cable, as Ubiquiti clearly specifies the use of shielded cable and connectors for outside access points.

Conduit is not required if you use the correct type of cable. Ubiquiti would like to sell you ToughCable and connectors, but IMHO those are overpriced .vs. any other cable that meets the need (exterior and shielded) so my Ubiquiti outdoor APs are connected to another brand that I could get for considerably less cash. It can also be difficult to keep the cable bend radius reasonable if running in 1/2" conduit with sharp corners around the building corner. If you want to use conduit, make the corner with sweeps.

Depending on the building layout and wiring access, running the cable up near the roof (or on the soffit, if there's a soffit) is generally less obtrusive than in the middle of the wall. It's also, not at all incidentally, a drier, more protected location for the hole in the wall (or you can come out the soffit if you have access from in the attic.)

If you are using any of the outdoor APs with the stock omni antennas, your best method is to run direct burial shielded Cat5e or Cat6 to a pole in the yard somewhat away from the house. The APs are well weatherproofed and don't need the shelter of the house, and a pole location in the center of your coverage area will give the best coverage. Conduit with sweeps (not sharp corners) would not be a bad idea if digging that trench, and removes the requirement that the cable be direct-burial rated, though it's usually not an extra cost on the cable. The conduit is a small extra cost in never having to dig the trench again.


Supporting this old 2x4 hip roof rafter to the beam I'm renovating an old house which had a hip roof. One of the roof rafters (2x4) comes down on an angle and isn't supported on the beam. I thought a strong tie lssj would work but the rafter is a bit too high.
What kind of hanger / tie could I use to support the rafter on the beam?

The ideal is a 3-4' scab with the appropriate hip/valley plumb cut and a 45 miter sistered onto the hip rafter and fastened to the beam.
The reality is that almost anything will do--hips usually don't carry much weight and are almost self-supporting, just as a ridge board often is.


Is it possible to do two 3way switched circuits that share a common power source but the power source and the light wire are in the same box? I'm trying to connect two separate circuits from a single power source using 3way switches. My trouble seems that my wire from my light and my power source are in the same box. Is there a way to do this? I have wired it multiple ways and I keep getting the first switch almost Ike a master that needs to be on for the second circuit to work.

Yes,

You need 14-3 or 12-3 going to each switch from the light/power:

Call the switches L(eft) and R(ight):

Connections@Light:

LineInPwr(white) -> Lamp(white)
LineInPwr(black) -> L(white tagged black)
LineInPwr(gnd) -> tied in common Both L(gnd) and R(gnd)
L(black) -> R(black) [traveler]
L(red) -> R(red) [traveler]
R(white tagged black) -> Lamp(black)

Connections at L switch:

L(White tagged black) -> L SW (common)
L(Black) -> L SW (brass) [traveler]
L(Red) ->  L SW (brass) [traveler]
L(gnd) -> L SW (gnd)

Connections at R switch:

R(White tagged black) -> R SW (common)
R(Black) -> R SW (brass) [traveler]
R(Red) -> R SW (brass) [traveler]
R(gnd) -> R SW (gnd)

Our own BMitch provided an answer and diagrams here (originally found here). We differ slightly in wire assignments (mine's better ;-)(why? both switches have the same wire assignments, the magic happens at the light)), but its basically the same.


How do I mount a shower curtain rod to tile? In my new place my shower is tile and has a spring loaded shower curtain rod. I have my curved rod from a previous residence and would like to mount it. I can operate a drill, but I have never gone through tile. The instructions are oddly specific stating I should use a ceramic bit at no more than 100 rpm using oil to lubricate the bit every 30 seconds.

While this seems easy enough, I'm a bit intimidated by the prospect of drilling brand new tile (installed prior to my move-in). I assume once I'm through I put in some plastic anchors and operate business as usual.

Am I missing anything important/obvious?

Use a masonary bit (easier to get hold of)
Put a cross of masking tape on the tile to stop the bit slipping sideways when you start
Go easy, don't put too much pressure on the bit.

Tip: try on an old bit of broken tile ( or a broken mug/teacup from goodwill) before starting on the expensive tiles.


Watt meter for main panel I'm looking for a simple watt meter where I can connect both lines of my split phase and get a reading of how many watts and amps are flowing through.

I've seen something similar for solar systems but it's only one phase.

Watt meter

Take a look at a system called TED (The Energy Detective), it can be used to monitor the whole house or individual circuits, or both and gives you a simple interface either stand-alone or to your smart phone or tablet.


Is the water valve continuing to leak after I shut it off normal? In the process of replacing the T&P valve for my hot water tank, I shut the supply valve off, to the tank but it continued to leak. Is this normal?

As keshlam points out, old valves don't always seal completely; try to be quick. Also, even if think you've drained the system, it may drip for quite some time. Pipe-fitting doesn't mind a little water; apply dope and screw it on.

Note- The T&P valve is to be piped to near floor level, with no threads left exposed to be perhaps capped by someone; cut them off.


Range hood vents into attic space My house was built in 1976. I recently replaced the range hood and discovered that the piece of rectangular ducting that runs inside the cabinet is not connected to the outlet vent on the outside of the house. It effectively vents into the attic space under the roof. That attic space is not used for anything, and in fact it is not even accessible.

My contractor quoted 650$ to install the duct, which is not surprising given the difficulty accessing that space.

What are the pros and cons to installing the duct vs. leaving it as is? Out of curiosity, was it considered a standard practice in the 70's to skip a 10-foot section of ducting and let the cooking fumes dissipate in an attic space?

Regardless of if this was ever standard, it's a bad idea.  I lived in a 60's built house and the dryer vented under the house from a hole in the floor.  The lint and moisture issues there were pretty bad to say the least.

The same issue is happening in your attic (crawlspace?).  The moisture in the exhausted air can cause problems for sure.  The air can also contain grease and other contaminants that will build up and cause... general grossness.

It's true that if you don't use the hood very much, it might not be a big deal, but if you want to to be done right, it needs to be in a duct from the hood, all the way until it exists the house through a wall or the roof.


What is causing the SUPER loud noise from my dryer I have a maytag gas dryer. It is about 20 years old. Model number DG7500

It sounds like an jet engine taking off. I've noticed that it starts off quiet than builds up to a very lour roar.

I googled -> rollers are bad. Bought new rollers, bearings,idle wheel,etc (150 CAD can be returned if unopened).

Pull off the access panels, look at idle wheel and roller, they don't look much different than the new ones.

So, I put in some wet laundry, ran it to see if I could spot the cause of the noise (of course, if it is resonant noise this probably wouldn't work). It didn't really get super loud this time. All the rollers and the idle wheel spun.

So, before I open the packages and take everything apart I'd like to get your thoughts on whether or not this is the problem. Any ideas?

Photos of current rollers & idle wheel:

Click for larger view

UPDATE 1:

WD40'd the roller: no real change
fluff for 10 mins, loud but I think it is normal for this one
DRY for 10 mins: 3-4 minutes in gets super loud again. So heat is probably playing a factor in this
Describe the noise: not a whine. Very loud rumble.

UPDATE 2:
- After buying all the parts suggested (Roller x2, gliderx2, idle wheel and belt) I took the cover, bulkhead, and drum all off. The problem was a dryer sheet caught in the blower. Removed, cleaned and replaced the belt (old one was pretty close to its last days) and it's all good now. Thanks!

It's difficult to say without actually standing in front of it and observing the noise, but I'm going to guess you have some shot bearings somewhere. It's easier to point to them in an image to suggest where they may be descriptively:

To the left you have casters to keep the dryer on course. Applying some Teflon (or silicone) may cure it. To the right, the motor - and the sound you're hearing may mean that it is dying. That's not something you can really service beyond replacing it.

It could also simply be the belt that's attached to the motor. The same 'belt dressing' that you can buy in an auto parts store to cure a fan noise in your car will likely show (or eliminate) the belt as the culprit. It is probably quite old if it hasn't been replaced since being purchased. The inside of a dryer can get quite humid, so those belts can last for a really long time.

So check lube or 'dress' anything that helps the dryer spin, except the motor, first. If that fails, then look into getting a replacement motor (or new dryer, possibly). Rule out anything that has steel bearings first, and the belt.


What are the optimal conditions to install a hardwood floor? I'm going to be installing a Red Oak tongue-and-groove hardwood floor to save some money, but I've heard mixed advice on what time of the year a floor should be installed. I live in the northeast of the US, and so we have cold winters and hot summers.

From what I would imagine, there would be some shrinking and expansion of the wood. Could this damage the floor boards in any way if I put them in during the "wrong" season? When would the optimal time of the year (in terms of humidity and heat) to install a floor like the one I'm putting in?

There isn't a right time.  In the summer the wood will expand and in the winter it will shrink.

The biggest question is whether there are large temperature changes where the wood will be installed.  If the house is always conditioned then just make sure it is in those conditions or warmer when installing the wood.

My personal opinion is that I would make sure that your hardwood is warmer/more humid than normal.  And it takes a few days for wood to totally temperature/moisture adjust.  Don't sit your wood outside.  If you have the heat on sit in next to a vent.  If the air is on - away from the colder air.

Slight shrinkage is basically nothing. Might notice some gapping but you won't notice unless you are on your hands and knees.  A lot of expansion can lead to buckling though and that is the last thing you want to deal with.  I installed mine at the end of last spring on purpose last year.


Ikea 5x5 Kallax disassembly (cross dowels) I want to disassemble my 5x5 Kallax, due to me moving.
My Problem is, that there are dowels going vertically through 3 panels.
See the manual Manual page 13 and onwards for a graphic description.

How would one try to disassemble the core of a shelf like this?
Pulling the vertical dowels out, or carefully using a rubber hammer?
What solution has the best chances to not damage the boards and not breaking a dowel?

Disassembly should be done in reverse order.
Do note though that IKEA furniture doesn't usually like being disassembled and reassembled. (I've had mixed success in the past.)

I'd advise the following steps:

Using permanent marker in the back to mark out where every part was, different colours vertically and numbered horizontally.
Remove the thicker top and bottom planks that secure everything together.
Remove the thicker side planks.
Remove thinner planks layer by layer.
It should be fairly easy to just pull the smaller planks and leave the dowels in place for later reassembly.
Once the small planks have been removed the wider plank should slide right off.
Reassemble in reverse order using the marker notes to determine where the various parts came from.

I'm currently unable to offer a visual aid but if what I've described above is unclear, let me know and I'll create a visual aid when I'm home.

I just found a YouTube video which uses more or less the above disassembly method.


What do I use to cover an insulation wrapped duct? (Silver foil wrap?) I was looking for silver foil to cover the heating duct insulation wrap. What is it called?

You're looking for Duct Wrap.  It's actually an insulation in it's own right, being one side foil, and the other side fiber insulation.   I see no reason why you couldn't apply it over top of the existing insulation, provided everything is dry.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/reflectix-duct-wrap-12x25/902353


How do I replace a sink drain body when there isn't a trap? I'm replacing the faucets in a master bath.  Each sink in the dual vanity is set up like this:

Presumably there is a trap down the line somewhere.  With no trap that can be disassembled under the sinks, I don't see how I can install the new drain body.

If there were a trap there, it would have the same type of threaded fitting that your existing drain assembly has.

cut the tailpiece a bit shorter
install a 1 1/2" slip-joint nut and 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" reducing slip-joint washer onto the tailpiece
insert the assembly all the way up through the hole in the sink
screw the upper drain assembly flange, packed with plumber's putty, onto the top of the drain assembly
lower the assembly such that the tailpiece enters the top of the drain pipe (it looks like it will line up)
tighten the lower lock-nut, such that it pushes the tapered gasket up against and centered on the hole in the sink, from below. This will tighten the drain assembly to the sink, effecting a seal at the top with the plumber's putty under the upper drain assembly flange. Wipe off excess putty that squeezes out.
slide the slip-joint washer and nut down to the threaded drain pipe fitting and tighten firmly (but carefully) with a wrench. P.S. hand tight is not good enough

picture from Google Images

p.s.s.- I am dubious of your presumption that a trap exists someplace downstream


How do I keep indoor air quailty high without letting in the outdoor air? The outdoor air is polluted. Is it possible to keep the indoor air quality high without letting outdoor air in? Maybe with plants?

Consider sources of volatile and off-gassing materials, pet type, amount of people and pets, what you cook and the kitchens exhaust design, use of candles, how often cleaning is done, and anything that combusts. You then design around that with the suggestions mentioned. Also consider the air quality in your neighborhood and how airtight your house is.


Are rechargeable 9-volt batteries suitable for use in smoke detectors? Lithium-Ion rechargeable 9V batteries are now readily available.

Are they appropriate for use with hardwired smoke detectors, which typically use 9V batteries as battery backups?

What about for use as primary power in battery-powered smoke detectors?

I was advised by one of the big smoke detector manufacturers that the real issue is voltage.  Most battery-operated items will still run, more or less, on a much lower voltage than the nominal voltage on the battery label.  That means that the battery can seriously run down and the gadget will still do something, even if it doesn't perform like with a fresh battery.

Smoke detectors aren't like that.  They need the voltage of an almost new battery to operate properly.  That's why they tell you to replace the battery at least once a year, even if a battery checker shows that it still has a lot of life.  When you remove the "old" battery, that battery is still fine to use in other gadgets.

The battery doesn't sit idle in the detector if there isn't smoke.  The detector constantly runs self checks, which use a little current.  If you routinely test the alarm (as recommended), that also uses some current.  So a year sitting in a smoke detector isn't like a year sitting on the shelf.  The battery runs down a little and the voltage drops.

I've got to assume that the unit will still work if there's a fire and it hasn't produced a low battery warning.  Fresh batteries typically don't produce a low battery warning in only a year, so there may be some PR compromise involved.

It's a pain in the butt to deal with a low battery alarm, especially if interconnected units all over the house decide to alert you in the middle of the night because one of the batteries dropped too low.  So the one year time frame may be so that you can calmly replace the batteries at your convenience and avoid the "emergency" (and not hate the manufacturer).  But what the unit considers a critically low voltage is still much higher than most other devices.

Which brings us to rechargeables.  They typically have a fully charged voltage that is a little lower than the voltage of a fresh alkaline battery, or quickly drop below that level.  The per-charge run time is also much shorter than the run time of a disposable alkaline battery.  And as @ʎəʞo uɐɪ points out in a comment, rechargeables tend to have fast self-discharge rates and not hold their charge for a long time relative to smoke detector needs.

These characteristics aren't a problem in most gadgets.  But it means that in a smoke detector, it may never be at the needed voltage even when fully charged, or will be above that level for a very short time.  That's the main reason they aren't suitable.


Is there a flush circuit breaker box cover? My breaker box is built into the wall. I can put my existing door on the outside, but that doesn't seem ideal as it leaves a gap. Is there a cover that will fit inside this? If so, what is it called? Tried many searches, but either they don't exist or I'm not using the correct term.

Holy smokes, no! Panel covers are not junction box covers!
The panel cover MUST be flush with the panel.  There is no choice nor option to that.
It doesn't work at all to have the cover be out of position. The cover being flush is essential to the  breakers not falling out!! That would be clear if you understood how breakers attach.

Use the surface mount version of the cover for that panel.
Which manufacturers usually are willing to sell separately.
The surface-mount version, instead of having a big flange to cover up the drywall edge, simply is bent 90 degrees at the edge. It adds maybe a 1/16" margin to the box size.  You will still need to plane or saw down the 2x4's a little bit, but it should be feasible.
Honestly, I'd cut back the drywall and 2x4 a lot more.
The reason is, as usual, no thought was given to finish treatments for the inside edge of this frame.  So I'd actually remove about 1-1/4" from all four sides, so there's room to frame it in stainable wood 1-by's. And I'd create that box of 1-x's on the bench, built so the inside is 1/4" larger than the panel cover.... (and this would work with the original panel cover too).
Then having cut back the 2x4 material and drywall, I'd reinstall the panel cover, then shim the frame/lining so that it is dead nuts square on the panel cover with 1/8" margin on every side.   Screw it down.  Then stain it with a tasteful stain. Finally I'd fit a cosmetic fringe around the opening to hide the ugly gap between box and drywall.
For bonus points, you could simply put a tasteful cabinet cover over the whole shebang, then you wouldn't need all that trim wood.


Can disconnecting the cold switch on a shower pump save money? I've moved into a house that has one twin pump on the hot and cold water pipes (leading from the tanks) to make the upstairs shower more powerful. It works fine in the shower, as it switches itself on (mains electric) when it senses flow in the pipes as you first turn the shower tap on.

Unfortunately it also does this when it detects the flow of cold water to the bathroom taps and the toilets in the house. This means I'm paying money to fill up my toilets, and also means if anyone uses a tap in the night there is a loud whirring noise in my 3yr old daughter's bedroom cupboard. Not ideal!

I see there are two sensors which are fitted on the outside of the cold and hot water pipes into the pump. Shall I just unclip the sensor on the cold side, in order that demand for cold water doesn't start the pump up?

I think there is only one motor inside the pump, so a demand for hot water will trigger the hot sensor, and pump both hot and cold water. So the shower should still work the same.

Any drawbacks? Other than: the toilets will refill slower?

To answer the question in the title "Can disconnecting the cold switch on a shower pump save money?"  The pump you linked to uses 345 watts.  Assuming you use the cold water only in the bathroom for 10 minutes a day - cold tap, toilet flush, then you're looking at 5 hours per month at 345 watts.  Call it 2 kilowatt hours.  My local utility company charges about 15 cents per kilowatt hour.  Your net savings will be $3/year.


Light fixture inside knee-wall storage We framed knee walls in our attic and want to use the areas behind them for storage.  These areas are triangular in cross-section, about 3' high at the knee wall, and of course the ceiling hits the floor at the other end.

What's a safe, cheap way to light these areas?

There's plenty of accessible wiring and framing to secure it to; the question is what kind of lights.  First I bought just regular light sockets with the pull chain that attach to a round ceiling box.  But now I'm worried that bumping into one of these with my head or shoulder will break the bulb off, creating a mess and an electrical hazard.  I heard about a kind of cage that protects the bulb but I can't find anything like that at the big box stores.  Florescent tube lights might be the right shape but probably too much light and cost.  I'm not really interested in battery-powered lights.

What would you do here?

Some of the new LED lights would be great for this app.  A little expensive, but will last a long time.  Low temp, low profile and very bright.   Check them out, even at the box stores.


Old AC and Gas Boiler wiring for new thermostat I need help connecting a new 'C' wire for a Honeywell RTH6500WF thermostat.

As you can see the heating is an old boilder with a simple pump to circulate the hot water to the baseboard radiators.

The A/C has 3 connectors to it.

This is the circuit board in the Blower

This is the current thermostat

I know I need to run a new wire for the additional wire but WHERE do I terminate the 'C' wire to on the thermostat?  on the C terminal inside the A/C blower?

That wire runs to the compressor outside and then to the Y terminal of my current thermostat.  Do I just need a new transformer? and how would I create the circuit on that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

You want the C terminal in the air handler, yes

The terminal you're looking for is indeed the air handler's C terminal -- it's on the fan-delay board (in the back left, from the viewpoint of the picture you've posted).  You'll want to tap the connection it's making to the blue wire using a "piggyback" tab terminal or by cutting and splicing into the blue wire connected to it with a wirenut.


Leaking sprinkler system area top of valve? I noticed a small leak of water when I turned on the sprinkler system this year. The leak seems to be coming from the top of the pressure vacuum breaker. Note this is not the exact picture of what I am dealing with, its the closest I could find online:

There are two screws at the top of this thing, should I be turning off the water and unscrewing these two screws...what could possibly be broken causing this leak? I really respect plumbers because boy do I hate leaks...

If you turn off the water to your sprinkler system you can them remove those two screws and take off the top of the pressure vacuum breaker.  Inside you should see an O-ring that makes a nice seal.  Check that the O-ring is in good condition and then also look for things like spider webs or wasp nests that are preventing a good seal.

If water is flowing into the sprinkler system the O-ring of the pressure vacuum breaker will prevent the water from leaking out.  If water flows the reverse direction, the pressure vacuum breaker will open and prevent the water from going back into your house (and you drinking it).  So if something is blocking the O-ring from making a good seal, then you could end up with a leak.


Installed Electric Tankless Water Heater - Internet loss when active I installed an Ecosmart 27kw tankless water heater yesterday and as far as heating the water goes, everything works perfectly.

The issue is when the water heater is running, I lose internet!

Specs:

Heater is 240v 27kw @ draw 112.5amps
Breakers are 3x 40amp dual pole across both sides of the split phase
Wiring is 3x 8awg
My internet is 10mbit ADSL down the phone line.

--

My suspicion is that the high amp lines are creating an electrical field which is interfering with the low voltage phone line system, killing my internet.

When turning on the hot water, I loose access to ping google.com, however I can still ping 192.168.2.1 [my router] which says it's not the router that's being interfered with via power loss.

Any recommendations regarding minimum distance between the high amp cables and the phone line. Am I even on the right track here?

Thanks - Jon

Update: Fixed by installing a new phone line externally, 2 meters away from the high amp lines with cat7 cable.

First, make sure that your three supply cables are paired properly.  The unit has 3 heaters internally.  There are several ways cables could be crossed that would result in power from 1 heater coming up one cable and returning on another cable.  The heater would work properly, but would kick stupid large amounts of EMF from the two imbalanced cables.  Just double-check it.

Or, the heater may be throwing high frequency electromagnetic hash, with the cable(s) becoming antennas and making this worse.  Now, electric resistive heating elements, alone, do not throw electromagnetic hash.  That would only happen from

a) control electronics, which will surely only be on one cable/circuit; or
b) power choppers ("dimmers") which could be on 1 or all of the circuits, but there'd be no useful reason to have them on more than 1 circuit.

Also, there's a thing I don't like about how Ecosmarts are installed - they expect you to cram three #8 cables through one 1" hole, which is a lot to ask, and requires just the right cable clamps to not violate Code.

I would install a 6" square deep or larger metal box right below the EcoSmart and a short EMT conduit nipple connecting it to the EcoSmart's wiring hole.  Bring the 3 cables into the large box with correct clamps; leaving space for up to 3 "surge suppressors" to be fit onto 3 knockouts.

Then I would consult with EcoSmart and ask them a) which circuit powers the control electronics and b) whether they merely switch all 3 heaters, or whether they use power choppers, and if they do, on which circuit(s).

On the circuits which do not use choppers or electronics, those can be wired straight through the 6" box, up the conduit nipple and to the terminals.

For the circuit(s) which do use choppers or electronics, you run a pigtail from the EcoSmart's terminal into this box.  Then you mount a "surge suppressor" in one of the knockouts (or not, if it's a type that can live inside the junction box e.g. Meanwell SPD-20-277P). Then join those wires to the power line from the panel. This wires the Ecosmart and the suppressor in parallel (the usual way you "tee" a connection) - it's not wired in series like a switch.

At this point, the surge suppressor(s) should be damping out the EM interference before it leaves the metal faraday cage of the Ecosmart + junction box.

I suppose Ecosmart could build this into the product, but that would raise the price-point, and so you might not have selected the product.


How can I remove this flapper alternative? I had good luck in the past using this product to replace a leaky flapper valve.

However, this new  toilet does not have a flapper hinge on the  base of the flush valve.  Instead, there is a hinged piece of plastic that looks like two cylinders attached to each other at right angles.  The bottom flush valve ring has a piece going straight up that this "flapper" attaches to, and I have no idea how to take it off so that I can just replace that assembly with this kit I've purchased.

This is what your flush valve looks like, when it's not in your toilet.

This bit should be flexible enough, to allow you to bend it out of the way on both sides.

The pins holding the actuating unit in place should slip out of the holes, and the whole piece can be removed. The best method to remove the actuating unit, is to gently pry the bracket with a screw driver on one side, then twist the actuating unit so that the pin on that side pops free.  Once one pin is out, it should be easy to get the other side out.


Is it ok to lubricate exercise equipment hydraulic cylinders? I have a Pro-Form 220c Hydraulic Cylinder based stepper.  After about 10 minutes of use the right cylinder stops offering any resistance.  I suspect that it's related to it getting hotter.

With normal usage they are supposed to get hot, so this isn't unexpected. I don't feel a noticeable difference between the two cylinders.  A new one costs about $60, but before I do that, I was wondering if it was possible to lubricate it?

If so, with what?

Replace it. There is nothing to "lubricate" (it's already full of oil) and if there was it would not increase resistance.  You have some sort of failure in the valving/orifices that restrict the flow of the oil inside the cylinder and convert motion to heat.

They are more directly analogous to shock absorbers (as on your car) than "hydraulic cylinders" and the vast majority of shock absorbers are not rebuildable, including the ones used on most exercise equipment.


How can I make a sturdy lightweight box? I want to build a box that is lightweight, but sturdy. At my disposal I have a laser-cutter, which I want to do the cutting.

My plan is as follows, but I have never done this. I have no idea if this will work, so I'm looking for some advice.

I want to cut the box sides out of wood with a laser cutter using notched edges. However, this wood will be thin and therefore will not be able to hold much weight. To improve the weight bearing capacity of this box I propose to add a layer of honeycomb polypropylene to the base and then add another layer of wood to maintain a rigid bottom surface, thus creating a sandwich of sorts. Does anyone think this will work?

Does anyone have an alternative idea?

Your idea is very similar to how hollow core doors are made.

If you feel a hollow core door is lightweight and sturdy enough for you, then I would say this approach will work for you.


What benefit do plasterboard/drywall screws have? I have some plasterboard screws like this:

However, without a drill I have a job getting them into the wall. Am I safe to use normal screws on hangings that aren't going to be taking a great deal of weight? In this case it is a rack of coat hooks.

There are several approaches to hanging loads on drywall/plasterboard.

Light Duty - The most common anchors for used for light loads are expanding tubes that grip the sides of the hole they are in and flare lightly behind the hole

Others like yours, have a wide thread to grab more surface in the drywall itself.  Some of the these threaded anchors have a flaring end, some do not.

The limitation of all of these types is they depend on a small area of drywall to stay solid to hold them. They are good for light loads and when the main force on them is shear force.  In a wall application, that means most of the force is pullin down, along the wall (as if you are trying to cut the screw in half right at the wall).

If you put a heavy load on these anchors, there is significant outward force, that is, pulling away from the wall. In a coat rack some of the load is shear (downward) and some is outward. This puts stress on the sides of the hole in the drywall and it crumbles. This is even worse when the load is dynamic (moving) rather than static (non-moving). A hanging coat is static. A coat being pulled form its hook is dynamic.  And almost all of that load is outward.

The threaded anchors distribute the load better, but not enough for any significant load. Sometimes this is compensated for by using many anchors. An improvement, but usually not a good solution.

Plastic (or metal equivalent) anchors are almost never suitable for ceiling mounts, where all the load is away from the ceiling surface.

Medium Duty - Anchors for medium duty pull against a larger area behind the drywall to distribute the load.

Expanding anchors go into the hole as a tube and are then expanded behind the hole using a screw, bolt or tool.

There are also toggle type anchors where the expanging section either rotates or springs out to cover a greater area.

The advantages of these anchors is that they spread the load far beyond the hole in the drywal itself. While the hole may be prone to crumbling, these anchors rest on an area of solid drywall, from about  1 to 2 inches around the hole. This gives the anchor much more strength to deal with outward loads of medium duty, as well as shear strength.  However heavy outward loads, especially dynamic loads, are pulling on on a few inches of thin plaster and paper. Again, adding many anchors helps spread out the load.

Some of these anchors allow removal and reattachment but some do not (for example, spring toggles fall off in the wall when the bolt is removed).

Heavy Duty - On a plasterboard wall, the heavy duty mounting of choice is directly into framing members.

The most common approach is to find studs, the upright framing members that hold up the wall surface.  These are either wood or steel. Screws are driven throught the item to be mounted, through the drywall and into the middle of the stud. An alternative is to screw into cross bracing framing. These are wooden or steel sections running horizontally to brace a wall or serve as a firebreak. These are marginally less strong than upright studs, but for practical purposes can hold all but the heaviest loads.

Studs and cross bracing can be found using a stud finder.

Screws should be long enough to reach at least 1 inch into a wodden stud, longer if the load is especially heavy. In steel studs, finer thread screws should be used (sheet metal screws) and length is less of an issue.

In wooden framing, an alternative to regular screws are hanger bolts that can be threaded into the studs and leave a bolt on the outside of the drywall for hanging the object.

The advantage of hanger bolts is the ability to easily remove and reattach the load using a nut or wingnut.

When there is no framing member in the exact spot needed, it is sometimes worth the trouble to add one. A section of drywall can be removed from the area, a cross brace inserted exactly where you want the mounting and extending horiziontally to the two supporting studs on either side. A drywall patch can be then put back to cover the cross brace (using the drywall section removed or a new piece).


Are these walls load bearing? Looking purchase this house, however, want to remove the bar and closets in "red", could that whole area be removed, or are those load-bearing/structural walls? The original structure for this house was a single story and these current plans are the proposed extension, upwards. Any help will be really appreciated.

No, the walls around the bar and closet do not appear to be load bearing walls, except I would not remove the North-South wall between the Kitchen and Lounge.

The dashed lines on the Ground Floor Plan indicate the structural floor framing for the the First Floor Plan (above).

As you can see, a steel beam has been added just South of the Bar area and extends over the Kitchen. However, none of the new floor joists rests on the walls around the Bar, except the North-South between the Kitchen and Lounge.


Are 6 volt fluctuations in a 120 volt home outlet harmful to equipment? I live in an older house in New England. I bought an UPS (uninterruptible power supply) to plug my computer into.
This particular UPS has an input and output voltage reader on it. I notice when my window AC unit and my computer are running, the input voltage on my UPS can go down to 118 V, then back up to 122 V five minutes later, then back to 120 V. I have about 5 people living in the house. Mainly these fluctuations happen in the summertime when the power grid is already under stress.
So my overall question is, will a ±3 V fluctuation be harmful to my equipment? Is it bad to have that much fluctuation?

This is typical. Can't exactly say "normal", because if everything is sized and installed correctly then there should not be significant fluctuations. But it is really quite common, particularly in older homes. In my case, I installed a UPS due to real power outages (used to be common, now very infrequent thanks to Pepco rewiring the neighborhood a few years ago), and it kicks in due to voltage drop every time the laser printer goes on.
Most equipment should be immune to these problems, as long as the range is relatively small - e.g., between 110 V and 125 V. See ANSI C84.1 for more details (thank you @Khrrck).


When should I not use WD-40? Looks like WD-40 can be used for lubricating just about any metal parts.

Are there non-obvious cases where using WD-40 will be harmful to the stuff lubricated?

Firearms - you should never use WD-40 to clean or maintain firearms.
Drive chains of any type - because WD-40 isn't a lubricant it really will not work well on Drive chains of any type.
Gears of any type - WD-40 doesn't have enough lubrication effect to be useful on any type of gearing. Only specified gear lubricants should be used.
Locks - Use powdered graphite or silicon spray instead.


(Solved) Electrical receptacle box has only 2 wires (white and black, no ground), but both are hot so no neutral? Can't figure out why? Edit - Solved. Thank you @Harper - Reinstate Monica!
A light connected to the same breaker was wired incorrectly upstream from the problem receptacle.

I think I might be a little over my head trying to DIY some electrical work in my 60's home. I am trying to replace my old 2 prong receptacles with GFCI protected receptacles following this Sparky Channel video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16KObgI44UE. To find the most upstream receptacle in the circuit, I removed all the receptacles (7 on this breaker, also 3 lights), capped all the wires, then tested with a non contact tester to see which line was still hot.

Oddly enough, 3 of the boxes still had hot black wires. 3 of the boxes also have no load wires (so only 1 set of black and white wires) and in one of those boxes both white and black wires are hot. There are only 2 wires in this box and both of them are hot. How?

I tested again with a (cheap) multimeter and got 120v from black to the metal box and also got 120v from white to the metal box. I am not knowledgeable at all about how to use a multimeter so not sure if that proves anything. The old receptacle was wired normally (white to neutral, black to hot) and did not work for as long as I can remember.

I plan on hiring an electrician eventually to take a look at this but unfortunately I cannot afford it at the moment. In the meantime, I plan on capping the 2 wires and covering it with a blank wall plate. Pretty curious as to how this happens. Greatly appreciate any enlightenment!

Wait, are they metal boxes?  Are the wires in conduit or AC cable?  The conduit/cable is a valid ground path.

Your neutral is that way because neutral is disconnected somewhere between this point and your panel.  Somewhere on this side of it, you have a load plugged in, and it's pulling the voltage up toward 120V.