How to change the blade on my mitre saw? Helllo i just got a firestorm black and decker 10 inch mitre saw off one of my buddies for free because he upgraded. I was looking at some videos (none for this saw) and i couldn't figure out how to get the blade off.
i put a wrench on the nut and turned clockwise but i don't know if it a clockwise or counter clockwise nut can anybody help?
(Black and Decker firestorm 10" mitre saw)

If the model number is correct, or even close to it, this may be useful for you:

Firestorm FS100L miter saw manual

From that link, I found this set of images that are sure to be useful:

A bit more digging in the manual shows this text:

WARNING:DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER
SOURCE!

Remove screw (A) Fig. 41 and rotate cover (B) to the rear (Fig. 42).
To remove the saw blade, insert the hex wrench (C) Fig. 43 into the
hex hole located on the rear end of the motor shaft to keep the
shaft from turning.
Use a wrench (D) Fig. 44 to loosen the arbor screw (E) by turning it
clockwise.
Remove the arbor screw (E) Fig. 44, the outside blade flange (B),
and the saw blade from the saw arbor.
Attach the new saw blade making certain that the teeth of the saw
blade are pointing down (Fig. 44). Place the outside blade flange
(F) on the arbor, and attach the arbor screw (E) by turning it
counter-clockwise using the wrench (D). At the same time, use the
hex wrench (C) Fig. 43 to keep the arbor from turning.
Rotate the cover back to the front and replace the screw that was
removed in STEP 1.

WARNING:Remove wrenches (C) Fig. 43 and (D) Fig. 44 before
starting machine.

Step 3 confirms reverse thread on the bolt holding the blade, turn clockwise (analog, not digital) to loosen.


Can I re-shape a heating coil that has been stretched out of shape? I got a new heating element and my son decided to pull the spring and stretched it out of the top holders, but didn't break anything. Can I just coil them back up and use it or they need to be apart so far not touching? Thanks.

The wire is nichrome. If it has not been heated, or kinked when stretched it can be reformed and attached to the high-temp insulators (hopefully the insulators did not get broken). Keep the coil spacing and space from the case so one area does not get two hot or short out.

I have made heaters for industrial equipment with new wire, but once heated the coils get brittle and they tend to break much more easily. With a new unit and carefully repairing the coils you should be ok.


Disconnecting quick connect fitting while hose is pressurized Tank is pressurized at 90psi. Attached to 50 feet 3/8 hose. Tool end of hose has a standard quick coupler. ( so its closed )

Is it "okay" to disconnect the male quick connect fitting from the tank? I understand the air in the hose is pressurized and air will come out, how bad can it be?

The osha approved method would probably require depressurizing the hose prior to removing the male from the female disconnect. I do this at full pressure of 150 psi on my system all the time, I do use caution because the air shooting out the male fitting can contain rust or large dust particles. I grasp the male end in 1 hand and the female in the other, pressing in on the male end I slide the lock sleeve on the female and allow the male to start coming out but keep the fitting inside the female until depressurized this diffuses the blast of air and I have never been hit with rust or dust using this method.


Systematic process to find replacement fluorescent T5 lamp holder The goal is to replace a plastic T5 tombstones has melted. The side 'wings' fold-in so it can be 'dropped-into' the fixture.

There are approximately 100+ tombstones and one has melted. Is there a clever technique to identify a suitable replacement part?  Google & Amazon searches have not produced high confidence results.

Update

Replacement part purchased and successfully deployed: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-13660-SWP-Fluorescent-Lampholder-Mounted/dp/B003AURQWW/

Next time I will purchase shunted, because I do not use single ended bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0036ZA9AW/

You just need a t5 tombstone, that looks like a tall one measure it and places like 1000 bulbs.com or other places have them, depending on quanties for less than a buck. Just make sure if shunted or non shunted you get the correct type, if you get non shunted you can always add a jumper if needed.


Dusk to Dawn not enough light to turn off I installed a dusk to dawn sensor on my porch light but the porch overhang and surrounding trees prevent enough light during the day to turn it off.

Does anyone know if there is some kind of extender or even a base with a timer similar to what you use indoors where I can specify the time?

Thanks

Did you leave it energized continuously for 48 hours before condemning it?   Many light sensors these days have a learning feature, where they know what "24 hours" is, and measure the brightest and dimmest times of day reagardless of solarization in absolute terms... and learn to turn the light on for the dimmest 8-14 hours.  If your sensor doesn't have this feature, get one that does.

Unfortunately people who don't realize this feature exists, get impatient with them and interrupt their power so frequently that they never get a chance to store 48 hours worth of data.  (the memory isn't non-volatile; NVRAM costs money, and the chip that does this feature wholesales for like 14 cents. It's in a lot of even low-end sensors.)

I have installed a $6 Walmart-tier sensor in a very shaded location on the back of a porch because that is where the receptacle is... The first day it was on continuously, but I left  it alone; 48 hours later it was acting exactly right.


Installing a GFCI Outlet with two neutral wires I'm trying to install a GFCI outlet, but the outlet being replaced used two neutrals, one hot, and a ground wire. I've only seen instructions on how to wire either only the LINE side (with one hot, one neutral) or the LINE and the LOAD (two of each). Do I need to join the two neutrals and connect them to the LINE side?

If it helps, here is a sketch of the full configuration:

Electronics folks have a tendency to think in terms of schematics rather than wiring diagrams.  That's because electronics is mostly about semiconductor design, with wiring methods handwaved, since they are generally just traces on a PCB anyway.

Whereas in electrical design, wiring methods are very important, as well as destination of cables. Since it is AC not DC, and high current to boot, we also have to care a great deal about induction and eddy currents, which means that it is vital that currents must  be equal in each cable, and so cable grouping matters bigtime.

As such, we can't just have blacks and whites dashing off-diagram to points unknown.  We must work out which cable or conduit each conductor is part of, and having done that, it's trivial to label the cables.  Do that and you get this:

And that's what the interior of your junction box would look like if you combed its hair.

First thing you notice is all the grounds are tied together.  Your drawing doesn't show that, and I'm worried you'd have created an island, of the lampside ground and one yoke*, which would not ground either of them. The only valid source of ground is the supply cable (barring the rare instance of a retrofit ground).  That tying device is a "wire nut", a basic tool of the trade.  You can also use Wagos, Alumiconns, whatever floats your boat.  Europe doesn't like wire nuts, and some brands are awful, but Ideal brand is excellent.

That extra white wire from the GFCI+outlet to the wirenut is called a pigtail.  This is SOP/standard practice in wiring.  If your GFCI has "Screw-and-clamp" terminals, that's another option.  Never use the "backstab" method, it is not reliable.

I don't know how you got 2 blacks on 1 switch screw. If the wire is continuous and just stripped there, that's fine. It's illegal to connect 2 wires to 1 screw (unless it's labeled saying that is OK) - if in doubt, convert that to a pigtail also.

Did I mention we're obsessed with wiring methods?  It matters when 15A flows through your work.

You may notice the purple area I drew on the GFCI+receptacle combo device. That is the "zone of GFCI protection".  It protects things plugged into its sockets, and wizards can extend that protection to other outlets**.  You wouldn't want to do that here, though, it wouldn't make much sense.

* A "yoke" means a switch or a (2-socket) receptacle, the literal meaning is the steel frame which attaches with 2 screws to the box.

** In electrical, "outlet" means any point of use, i.e. also hardwired devices.  That thing with 2 sockets is a receptacle.


Why do my LED lights stay on, even when the switch is off? I have two LED lamps in my corridor, and when I switch them off, they keep emitting light (not very strong, but it's annoying at night).

What can it be? How can I fix it?

Some light switches run a small amount of current through the bulbs even when off, usually to power small devices at the switch like a timer, motion sensor, or night light. Do your switches have either of those features, or something else like that?

The way those devices work is instead of having a hot/neutral pair powering the switch, they just sit inline with the hot wire and draw a very small amount of power. Old fashioned incandescent bulbs won't light up if there's only a small amount of electricity running through them, so you would never notice this current, but LEDs are much more efficient and apparently are getting enough power to run.

If that is the cause of the problem, there are a few solutions:

Swap out the light switches for regular ones. You'll lose whatever additional functionality they have.
Upgrade your switches to ones that have both a neutral and a hot wire, instead of just the hot wire. This may be relatively straightforward or extremely difficult, depending on whether the neutral for the light goes through the same box as the switch. (Note that even if you do have a neutral at the box it may be a little tricky to wire it up, since you might have to cut it and then add a pigtail or two.)
Put back your old-fashioned incandescents.
Install one incandescent and one LED


What hardware would I use to attached this tight to a wall? This plaque has two screw holes in the back. I would like to mount it tight to my wall, but I don't know how to attach it to the wall.

I would fabricate or locate a a hanger with a single hole for the screw and a hanger loop.  Use your machine screw to mount the hanger loop to the plaque and hang it on a standard picture hanger suitable for your wall type.  You could swap to flush screws if it stuck out too much and put spacer shims on the sides in back if needed so it sits flat


Rewiring switched outlets I have two outlets that have the lower outlet controlled by a wall switch. The red wire is the switch.
I am trying to swap these out with an outlet that has only spots for black white and ground and I have no need for them to be controlled by the switch any longer. What do I do with the red wire?

Just wire nut off the red wire and push it into the back of the box. You should remove that switch and safe-up that wire on that end also. You can purchase a snap -in blank to go in you plate.


How to find what code is in my area for insulation in an unfinished basement? I just purchased a house that was built and finished this year.

My house is backed up to a hill, and the foundation walls get shorter from the front of house (8 feet) to the back (a little over 2.5 feet), with above ground windows. There is foil type installation around the wooden wall areas and a white blanket around cement areas about halfway down the wall from start of foundation at top. The back area where the foundation is only 2.5 ft tall there is no white blanket installation.  Just the foil type covering with pink installation around the above ground area and around windows.

Should there be insulation around the cement for this shallow area too? I live in Illinois, an hour from Chicago.

Picture:

http://imageshack.com/a/img921/6905/cOYkpX.jpg

All areas that are above ground should have insulation.  R-20 would be about the minimum - what you should ever do.  You can ask your local inspector and they will possibly differ and want more or less.  I myself do about R-30ish for basements and live close to you.

I just did my own basement 4 years ago and used Roxul at about R-30 depth and only did the portion about one foot below grade (my basement only shows 1 foot) and my basement is an oven now in the winter, even when we close vents.

In our region the biggest concern isn't the insulation on the outer wall concrete, it is making sure the joist area is packed and no air gaps.  Just doing that will be 80-90% of the conservation of energy.  The walls, while doing them is fine, remember that for all of the warming effects in the winter, you will lose cooling effects during the other seasons.  You have way more basement above grade than I do so what you have seems OK, but I would check the joist area.


how do i mount this old Toyo Toki (Toto) sink? I'd like to use this small sink in a powder room, but can't figure out how it mounts to the wall. There are large holes for lugs at the bottom, but if that's it the sink will tip and crack.

Does something go into the two upper holes? I've looked for brackets and nothing matches; they all use a French cleat system. I haven't found a guide to installing an old wall mount sink either; everything I found says "now install the bracket supplied by the manufacturer". Doh!

Edit: I understand that something is going to have to go into the top holes to secure the sink. I just don't understand what or how. The two top holes go into the sink and I have no access to the front. So I can't insert a screw or bolt there to stick out the back.

Any suggestions?

Edit 2: Added a couple more pictures of the back of the sink. I think making a cleat-type bracket like @eric-poole suggested just might work!

The two top holes in the corners are there because the sink is hollow. They are from the making of the sink. You will not use those holes. Every wall mounted sink that I have installed uses a bracket that is mounted on the wall first into at least one stud, then the sink drops down onto the bracket. The two lower holes then would probably line up to two holes on the bracket so the sink cannot be accidentally moved or bumped off the bracket.

If you do not have the bracket, you may have to fabricate one (I would use wood). It should not get wet back there if you caulk along the top of the sink after installation, so the wood should not fall apart over time.


How do I test to make sure my panel is grounded correctly and all the bonding is correct? We recently did a service panel upgrade, added a breaker that goes to the subpanel in the garage, installed two ground rods, connected the ground rod to a cold water pipe, bonded the cold-hot-gas pipes at the water heater.

Is there a way for me to test that this is all done correctly...i.e. there's a continuous path to the grounding rods.

Do I use a multimeter and test for continuity?  Do I measure potential?
If I were to do the above, at what points would I do it in the path/circuit?

How do I test that the subpanel in the garage is grounded correctly?

A continuity test should be sufficient to determine that the grounding wires are connected. Edit- To check for continuity with a multimeter, turn the dial to the a symbol that looks like, ►|. Make sure the probes are in the correct places. Some multimeters have three sockets for two probe wires... if that's the kind of multimeter that you have you need to put one probe in the socket marked ohms (Ω). Then attach or touch the probes to whatever you are checking (for continuity) to find out if they are connected. Some multimeter models make a ringing noise, while other models just display a quick burst of numbers which settle down to zero when the meter senses that the probes are connected (electrically).

But beyond that you should check out the article, how to achieve grounding in poor soil. I'm not suggesting that you have poor soil, but this article illustrates how to check it (with a ground resistance testing instrument) and how to treat poor soil if necessary, and points out some other info about grounding.


Will my stove's pilot light ignite automatically when the gas is turned back on? I shut off the gas valve going to my stove because the top was getting too hot when off. I know its supposed to be warm because of the pilot lights but this was hot. I suspect the pilot light is cranked up too high. I'm going to have my landlord look at it. My question is, if I turn the gas back on, do the pilot lights automatically re-light?

If there were a way to spark the pilot light automatically, you would not even have the pilot light at all (you would just use THAT thing to spark the flame only when needed).   This is how my stove works:  I have no pilot light, but I have "spark plugs" at the burners (they make a loud clicking noise when the gas knob is in the Start position).

So, by definition, if you have pilot lights, then you need them.  If you snuffed them then you need to be ready to re-kindle them, they won't re-kindle themselves.


How to select (size) a pump for a swimming pool? What are questions one must ask and the calculations that must be performed to select an optimal pool pump?

You will need to know how many gallons of water are in your pool. The general rule of thumb is your pool pump should be able to clean your pool in 8 hours so you'll divide your total gallons of water by 8 to get gallons filtered per hour. Then divide that number by 60 to get gallons filtered per minute because that's the figure most pool pumps are rated by. Now look for a pump motor that is close to the gallons per minute you figured out for your pool. You have to take into account what your pool filter is rated for too as it has to be very close to the pump output. You'll also need to know the pipe size of your existing pump so you get one similar to it. You also want to get a pump with the same electrical specs.

Often people are inclined to get the same size pump as the one they are replacing. That's not a good idea because efficiencies of motors and pumps have greatly improved over the years.

I've covered a lot and here's a web site I've used often for doing this. Good luck.

http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_size_a_pool_pump_for_your_in_ground_pool_.aspx?CommentPage=1


Adding rebar to deck footings and piers? I've heard a few people mention adding rebar to deck footings and piers to make them stronger, but I haven't been able to find any details on how exactly to do this.

Is it sufficient to just hammer 3 or 4 pieces of rebar into the bottom of my hole so they stick straight up and then pour the concrete over them? If not - what is the proper way to do this?

Concrete does not have very good tensile strength. Rebar is laid in such a manner that it adds tensile strength in the concrete.

Depending on the size and weight load the pier/footer assembly is expected to support and the length of the pier, it could be reinforced in the following manner.

A rebar circle in the footer to prevent weight spread from cracking it
Vertical members in the pier with L bent ends that sit over the top of the circle bent piece in the footer to reinforce against bending forces in the column

For a bridge just built here, they spiral-wrapped the vertical rebar reinforcement with a long helical bent reinforcement as a seismic forces precaution to prevent the rebar from shedding the concrete (rebar doesn't have very good strength against compression and bending).


Which style transition/threshold do I need for carpeted stairs to meet floor boards? I've had a new carpet installed on my stairs.

The fitter wasn't able to supply a threshold and I wasn't at home at the time of the install so I couldn't ask him what style I needed.

Is there a specific curvature/style/design name that I should be using for this scenario?

My recommendation would be to terminate the carpet on the last riser.  If you put in a threshold, yes you'll protect the end of the carpet, but you'll still have a lip for people to trip over and fall.  Not fun.

If your flooring has no terminal piece at the top of the stairs, you can certainly get pre-shaped "noses" with proper support built into the shape.


Identify if this is a load bearing wall from the blue print We are exploring the remodeling of our kitchen, and wondering if this wall between living room and kitchen is load bearing ?
I have attached the blue print and photo. Are there any indications in the blue print which provides this proof ?

It took me a while to figure our the drawing of the first floor are first floor and ceiling, not first floor and floor joists. (Is the first floor is a concrete slab?)
There's a 6x12 beam (triple 2x12) in the first floor ceiling supported at one end by the alcove wall.
Superimposing the top floor over the lower floor shows that above the wall with the alcove is a wall of the upstairs closet and above that a beam that's supporting the air conditioner.
So yeah, it's extremely structural.

It may be possible to fit a new beam (green) to carry the end of the 6x12 and connect them with a suitable hanger
bracket, but you'll probably need an engineer to figure out what type of beam, and there will be a big hole in the ceiling to repair. The walls at either end of the beam will probably need to be strengthened too. Additionally the 6x12 is now spanning a greater distance and may also need to be upgraded.


Can I use flux core wire with MIG shield gas (argon/CO2)? I recently purchased a cylinder of MIG shield gas (argon/CO2). Can I use my existing flux core wire and the MIG gas together or do I need to buy solid wire?

Maybe, but best not use the gas. The flux core has deoxidizers in it like aluminum , silicon and manganese ( not really a deoxidizer). They are expected to react with oxygen from the air and be consumed. If the oxygen is kept away by the gas some of those elements will dissolve into the molten metal . This will add alloys that may affect the properties of the deposit . Many years ago Lincoln did something like this and the resulting welds had high silicon and manganese causing them to be too strong.


Outlet trips GFCI and Circuit Breaker. Help! We have three outlets in our kitchen that are all connected to one circuit breaker.  We often use these outlets for our toaster oven and rice cooker.  About a month ago, the outlet started to trip the GFCI + circuit breaker whenever we used our toaster oven or rice cooker.  I initially thought this might be due to a bad GFCI in one of the outlets, so I replaced all three (bought pretty expensive $25 outlets thinking that this would hopefully solve the issue).

We started to use the outlets again with the rice cooker and toaster oven.  Everything was fine for about a week with everyday use.  Then the same thing started to happen again

We remodel our home 2 years ago with all updated electrical except for the panel outside (it had been updated in the last 5 years).

The reason people think multiple GFCIs is odd, is this: A GFCI device (receptacle, deadfront or breaker) can protect additional outlets beyond itself.  This is done by using the LOAD terminals.  On a GFCI deadfront or breaker, using those terminals is essential. However on a GFCI receptacle device, the LOAD terminals are a constant source of misconfiguration by novices, handymen, ahem drywallers etc.  Either they miswire it so it constantly trips, or they accidentally GFCI-protect outlets they were not expecting to, resulting in nuisance trips and surprise outages.  So there is a warning tape across the terminals, that says in as many words, "Do Not Use: For Wizards Only".

Don't get me wrong, in a perfect world everything would be GFCI protected and every load that trips a GFCI would be fixed, and technical acumen and money would flow unlimited to get this done. However, in reality the technical acumen or time just isn't there, and the dangling problem isn't particularly serious.  Compromises must be made.

So... multiple GFCIs on a circuit are appropriate when the installer realizes he is not a wizard; or; when there are downline loads which should not be GFCI protected for one reason or another.   There's no way to protect half a downline.  The apocryphal example is where receptacles are wired panel-1-2-3-4, with countertop receptacles in 1-2-3 and a refrigerator is plugged into 4 and it trips GFCIs.  I don't care: A grounded refrigerator is the exact opposite of the use case for a GFCI, being a grounded metal box with all the electrical bits in the bottom back, shielded and beyond arm's reach for a human, and  you are unlikely to drop a refrigerator in the sink.

In such a case, the LOAD terminals will not be used at all.

Your direct problem

First you need to test.  Since your devices are tripping both the Breaker (which looks for excessive current hot-neutral or hot-ground) and the GFCI (which looks for any current other than  hot-neutral), the common factor is hot-ground, and current must be very high (bolted).  An ohmmeter should measure this resistance out at near zero, and it would trip a plain breaker on any circuit.  By the way, for that to happen, the appliance would need to have 3-prong sockets.  If 2-prong, don't bother with this test:

I would first measure hot-ground with an ohmmeter and look for numbers that are too low (less than 5 ohms).  Then  try them on other circuits, particularly a non-GFCI such as the electrician's socket (if present) at your electrical panel since it's least likely to break anything else. Also, I would try it in your bathroom's GFCI.  If it fails there, it's the appliances.  If it does not fail...

I think your problem is one of two things: either the LOAD terminals were in fact used, and misused; or more likely you have a grounded metal box and the wire attachment screws of the GFCI (perhaps the LOAD neutral screw) is touching the metal box.   If the back connections were used and the wire is pulling out of the back connections and touching the metal box, I've had that happen.  Maybe it happpens when you plug the appliance in because you are flexing the box. Regardless, make a few wraps of electrical tape around the GFCI to cover the side screws. That is a good practice on any receptacle.


How do I lift a fitted carpet without damaging it? We recently bought a house and had a bit of work done rewiring and re-plumbing everywhere.  Carpets were fitted around the house before we moved in.

However, we have recently noticed in our spare room (after shifting some of the crap sitting there) that not all of the floorboards under the carpet have been properly nailed down (we had a spark in doing some re-wiring, so I'm assuming he didn't secure them after running some cables).

So, the question is, can I:

a) Lift the carpet on one side of the room without damaging it (I've only ever ripped up carpets before that were going to the dump)?  If so, how do I do this?

or

b) Is it advisable/possible to just nail directly through the carpet to secure the floorboard?

You can pull carpet up off the tacking strip to do some work. It depends on how much of the carpet you're going to pull up. Carpet is stretched over tack strips using a kick stretcher or a power stretcher so if you pull the WHOLE carpet it you risk losing that stretch. I did some work under our carpet and wound up pulling up too much and had to hire a company to come out and re-stretch and tack it back down but if you're just pulling up a small corner you should be ok to just push it back down.

(Word of warning: when pushing the carpet back down on the tack strip, use a board to push it down, the tacks on the strip routinely go through the carpet and it hurts like all get out if it suddenly jams into your fingertip)

If the work is in the middle of the floor I've used a utility knife and made a lengthy slit in the carpet to do what I needed to and then called out a carpet install company to re-seal the carpet with a glue strip. After he re-glued the carpet and ran the seam blending tool over it it looked perfect. I would highly advise against nailing through the carpet, it creates an indent and doesn't look very good.


How do I clean mold from a leaky ICF foundation? I have an ICF foundation on my home that water is penetrating.  I don't have a sump, and I don't know what kind of drainage is installed.  My main concern is my west wall, since it is in the finished half of the basement.  The sheet rock has become damaged and moldy, and I know it is a problem because my allergies will kick in if I spend an hour down there in the summer.  I know I need to remove the sheet rock and kill the mold, and I need to fix the drainage on the outside of the house.

What about the ICF on the inside of the house?  Would it be enough to just spray it with a bleach solution?  Or do I need to remove the ICF and reinsulate to eliminate my mold problem?

My last place I built my shop with icf, 1 wall is 11’ below grade, I used foundation drains and back filled with river rock, this is on a very steep hill and below the shop we have a French drain in front of the entire house , these drains flow an amazing amount of water , the 4” pipe full flow after a day or so of rain. So if you can dig it out and add drains then backfill with rock there will be nothing to hold the water on the wall then the drain will remove the water. I have used this process on many houses with sub grade walls and only 1 ever needed additional sealing and it was cinder block.
Providing the water a path that doesn’t hold water and getting rid of the water at the bottom usually works well. Then there is no moisture to create the mold. I use 3% hydrogen peroxide and water to kill mold it works really well and doesn’t stink.


What is this rubber thing I found by the sink? I found this rubber thing by the kitchen sink of my new place and I'm trying to figure out what it is. Any ideas? it looks like some kind of stopper but it doesn't seem to fit anything I see.

Turns out it's a wine bottle stopper. Thanks to UNECS.
http://www.vacuvin.com/270/Vacuum_Wine_Saver.html


Why can't I bleed my radiator? I am living in an apartment in Belgium. My bedroom radiator is basically useless; it's about 1m long but only the left 10cm ever gets warm.

I have been told to bleed the radiator by opening the valve and letting the pressurized system fill the radiator with water, pushing air out until the water starts leaking out of the valve. This, however, is not working for me. I have tried leaving the valve open for weeks and nothing ever changes. I have also tried opening and closing the main radiator valve. When I close it, I hear a hiss from the bleed valve. When I open it... I also hear a hiss from the bleed valve.

I suspect that I have somehow actually worsened the problem as when I first moved here the radiator was maybe 50% operational; now it's 10%.

Is it possible that I am allowing air INTO the radiator rather than letting it escape? Is there some magic combination of "open bleed valve, open radiator, close bleed valve, close radiator" that I need to try?

I have read other DIY sites on the net but basically they say what I've already tried, or talk about turning off the central heating system which is not possible in my apartment building.

I have tried contacting the landlord but it's a monumental task to get her to take any action. That is a separate issue I'm dealing with; right now I just want to feel comfortable.

My fingers are freezing making it hard to type, so I'll wrap this up :D

[UPDATE]

I managed to get it working, but I think it's more magic than anything. A combination of turning the radiator on / off/ leaving the valve open / closed and it started working again. For the moment I simply vow not to touch it anymore!

To get your landlady interested, point out that the radiators are filled with moist, warm air, and that the system is corroding from the inside, shortening the life of the radiators and clogging the boiler with rust. That means the boiler's life is being drastically shortened and may soon cause a massive expense. Fixing it now would be much cheaper than fixing it later. The question is, is she greedier than she is lazy?

As to what's actually the problem?

It seems to me that your apartment's system wasn't being replenished with water. Opening the radiator bleed valve wasn't doing anything because there was no additional water available to replace the air.

Central heating systems come in two flavours -- open vented and sealed -- and each refills with water in a different way. In an open-vented system, there is a tank at the highest point in the system, that uses a ballcock to fill up with water: see this diagram at diydata.com. The ballcock is in the feed and expansion tank. If the ballcock isn't operating correctly, the feed and expansion tank doesn't fill with water, and so no extra water will be available to fill your radiator. The ballcock could be stuck, or it could have been tied off so that some work could be done, and never untied. If you've got that kind of system, the fix would be to get the ballcock moving freely again. Is there some kind of maintenance area you could check out?

Alternatively, it may be a sealed system; there's another diagram showing that. These systems are filled up with a tap -- see the 'filling stop cock' in the other diagram. Normally, you'd check the pressure in the system every few months and use the filling stop cock to make sure the pressure is high enough -- say, 2 to 3 bar. Again, this will probably be very close to the boiler itself and so would need access to your building's maintenance area.

My guess is that it's a sealed system, and that the internal pressure has dropped right down to atmospheric pressure on the fifth floor. Lower apartments won't be suffering because gravity gives them more than their fair share of water, so most tenants won't suffer. However, any rust generated in your radiator will sink down into the system and clog it for everyone.


How can I estimate square footage of fencing for stain? I have a fence that looks like the following:

I plan on staining this fence with a paint sprayer and this stain product. The product notes that one gallon will cover Coverage Area (sq. ft.) 250 ft². Can someone help me determine how to calculate the number of gallons I would need?

Sprayers make the job much quicker and easier, however there will be a lot more waste. Take the fence height X the length X two (sides) and you will have an apx of the square feet.  Example  4ft high X 100 feet long X 2 sides = 800 square feet. 800/250= 3.2 gals.

Realistically, if you are careful and try to hit the pickets and not waste as much on the spaces, you may use a slight bit less. Keep in mind, if you are using a stock color, you can return unused/unopened product for a refund at most stores.


Cut vs patch plaster and wire mesh I'm replacing the ceiling of a window-seat that was damaged by water. On the wall above the window seat, I've got an area of wall where the top layer of plaster has come off. The top layer appears to be similar to joint compound. It sits on top a concrete-like plaster and wire-mesh. The area to be filled is about 3 inches wide, and a few feet long. Depth ranges from 1/8 in to nearly 1/2 in.

I can think of two basic options.

Option 1: Cut out a nice square hole all the way down to the underlying wood. Fill the space with drywall of a reasonable thickness. Use joint compound or Spackle to handle variances in depth. This seems problematic as cutting through the wire mesh and leaving a smooth edge has proved very difficult.

Option 2: Fill the open space with some kind of filler. Spackle and joint compound seem too weak. Based on What should I use to fix chips in veneer plaster?, it seems there is something called veneer plaster that might be the right choice.

My plan for the open space in the ceiling is to install regular drywall. I will be putting a corner bead around the edge, just like I would for a completely drywall installation.

Your plan seems sound enough. You are right that joint compound and spackle are not the right material for your upper fill.

I would not cut down through the wire, but would cut to the depth of the wire in a straight line across, which should leave you a fairly uniform depth. Then use a piece of plasterboard to fill the area up to the corner, fastening your corner bead over it. Use plasterboard as close in thickness as you can but not over (under is better than over).

Then use successive coats of patching plaster or joint compound to match surfaces, feathering way back over the existing plaster and sanding smooth.


How do I stop my driveway from flooding? I purchased this home recently and when it rained, this happened. This is as soon as I step out onto my driveway. Would sand bags help in this case? I would love to fix it in the most cost effective way possible.

Driveway pictures

You have two ways to get rid of it.

Pump the water away.

This will allow you to move the water to a higher elevation where it can drain away naturally. See sump pumps.

Create a drain for the water.

You'll need to determine the best place for water to go. This depends on what is even further from your house. It looks like in the pictures that the driveway goes slightly uphill away from where the water is pooling and towards the road. If that is the case, trying to get the water to go that way will be hard.
Seemingly more likely, you could have it drain through the back yard. In order to do that, you'll either need to grade the dirt, or add another path for water to flow.
Grading the dirt:
Since you have a low spot next to the drive way, you'll need to pull some from where you intend water to flow into the lower area. Water will flow down hill, and you'll need to make that hill for it to flow down, even if the hill is barely noticeable.
Adding another path:
In this case, you'll dig a trench from the lowest point next to the drive way to either the edge of your property or a point where it will run off easily. You can use field tile (corrugated pipe) to run it in. If you use perforated pipe, you can put some rock on top and around it to let water in. You'll need a path for the water that's sitting to get into the pipe. Also, you'll want to run any downspouts in the area into that pipe to have them drain off too.
Here is a description of how to install corrugated pipe.


Running Tesla Powerwall 2 Off-Grid - Excess Solar Question Above is how I envisage my solar/battery system to be functioning in normal operation.
So I've recently had a Powerwall 2 battery installed into my home. It comes with the gateway device that allows for mechanical disconnection from the grid. Therefore in the event of grid power loss, my home can be safely disconnected from the grid, and I can continue operating from the power available in the PW2.
Just last night I decided to try this off-grid functionality and turned off the electricity from the power box outside. I heard the mechanical "thonk" in the gateway device, as my connection was severed from the grid, and the house continued to run on the powerwall... super cool! The next day, my solar generation began (wonderful sunny day), and the battery charged up from 61% through to 98%, when I suddenly noticed that my solar generation went down to zero. I went into my loft to have a look at the inverter and noticed there was an error code on the display (see below).

Digging deeper it seems like my inverter has an AC frequency set range of 49.5 to 50.5Hz (UK grid frequency is ~50Hz), so this made sense as far as the error code was concerned. I also found out that I can adjust this range via an RS232 terminal on the inverter to increase this operating range should I so desire (can be adjusted anywhere from 40 through to 60Hz).
So my questions are:

Why does my inverter show a frequency fault ONLY when the battery reaches near full charge?
In the scenario where the grid is not available, where does the excess energy that isn't currently being used by the home, go? I was thinking that the inverter now needs to dump any excess electrical energy that my house isn't using at the time, but finds the external grid closed and therefore causes some kind of internal fault?
If I were to change the acceptable frequency range on the inverter on the upper end, would there be any negative ramifications in doing so?
What causes my PV meter to actually detect solar production? Does it require current draw of some form? So either the draw of my home, or the draw of the external grid "taking" my excess energy from me? Without these 2 draws... would the energy need to be dumped to some kind of heat sink and dissipated as heat energy, or would the inverter detect the required draw, and only "pull" electrical energy required from the panels?

Apologies for all the non-technical speak above. I'd appreciate any light that could be shed.

Scenario where house is severed from the grid
EDIT1: Inverter is a GroWatt 3600MTL - Manual here
EDIT2: It appears from the manual, that the default country when the inverter would have first been setup is Italy. There's a good chance the installers didn't change it from its default. Looking at this firmware software manual for the inverter, it shows that the range (R2 fac High) is 50.5Hz, whereas UK should be 52Hz... that would at least explain the error message.

EDIT 3: According to this chap, the raised frequency may actually be a feature of the Tesla Powerwall2! Looks like it somehow detects the maximum frequency of the inverter sensors, and then raises it's internal frequency to cause grid-tie inverter shutdown. In the video linked, it shows that his frequency went from 50 to 54, whereas mine only jumped to 50.7. Might be that Tesla isn't able to "know" what this upper limit frequency actually is, so it probably begins "probing" around 98% battery full, by incrementally increasing the frequency until it detects an inbound AC shutdown. It might remember that value for next time and allow itself to charge all the way to 100%, knowing it has an proven frequency target for inverter shutdown. Very clever!
EDIT 4: For anyone wondering how the PW2 Gateway works: I've just received a schematic of the work conducted by my installer. Hopefully it's a bit more meaningful to others, than it was to me!

Answer collated from comments...
Looks like there are three separate things going on here, with an interesting interaction...

a Grid Tie inverter

This is supposed to shut down when disconnected from the grid. That's a fundamental safety requirement of grid tie inverters called "anti-islanding".
When the grid fails, does your inverter power the local grid segment and electrocute the poor lineman sent out to fix it?
No, because the inverter senses the incoming mains voltage, and shuts itself down when the voltage disappears or the frequency is out of range. This is the fundamental feature of a grid tie inverter as opposed to an off-grid inverter.

A battery storage system, the Tesla Powerwall. This charges itself when there is excess power available, and discharges when there is a power shortage. The question is, how does it know the state of the grid?

The power grid consists grid mainly of rotating machinery, which speeds up a little when lightly loaded (like a car rolling downhill). This means there is a good correlation between high demand and low frequency (and vice versa) which can be observed here
So we can speculate the Powerwall monitors frequency (as well as voltage) to supply power when frequency or voltage are low.
Fine, but what happens when the grid is disconnected? To charge, the Powerwall must generate AC voltage, both convincing the inverter to start up, and to power the house. Then it indicates its need for charge by keeping the frequency low, and when full, convinces the inverter to stop charging by raising the frequency.
When in this mode, turn on a decent load like a kettle. Watch the frequency fall, and the inverter re-start.
So the house is now an island with its own AC supply. But what about the poor lineman?

The gateway.

If external AC mains is disconnected, the gateway provides further isolation, disconnecting your island from the external wiring, and won't re-connect until external power is re-established. (It must provide some way of synchronising the two grids in the process. I don't know how).

Now I think we can answer your questions...

The Tesla signals it's full by increasing the frequency until the inverter stops generating excess power. Adding a load should reduce the frequency again.

If there's excess energy (sunshine), no grid, and full batteries, the inverter simply doesn't draw current from the solar cells, which dissipate the excess power as heat, getting slightly warmer.

You can add a load dump (like a water heater) connected when the frequency rises, to capture this energy.

the inverter SHOULD legally be set to UK (G83/2) standard if you're using it in the UK. Parameters like freq range, response time to faults, etc will then comply with UK rules.

If the PV meter is in the inverter, it must measure power exported by the inverter (= power harvested from the solar cells) whether you use that internally, charge the battery, or export it.

To measure power exported to the grid, you need a smart meter that reads import and export power separately.


Hissing vent on a steam heating pipe In the kitchen of an apartment I've just moved in there's a vertical pipe running floor to ceiling, not connected to any radiator nearby. It gets hot, so I assume it is a part of steam heating system. There's a vent on the pipe that emits very loud hissing time after time, especially at night.

I'd like to stop this noise. Can I just plug the hole in it or remove it altogether?

As far as I understand, such vents serve to let the air and excessive steam out from radiators which only have one pipe connection. The pipe in question obviously has two connected ends (going to the floor and to the ceiling), so a vent on this pipe looks superfluous. But I never encountered steam heating before, so I'm being extra careful.

Vents on other radiators in the apartment hiss seldom and reasonably softly, and the radiators are hot; I suppose these function correctly.

The vents on a steam system, by releasing the air, allow the steam to rise. Often, the risers far away from the boiler will have their own vent to get the heat there quicker. If you capped it it would probably take longer for that part of the house to get warm. From an efficiency point of view you want that air purged ASAP.

You can balance a system with adjustable vents.


How can I install the drain for my reverse osmosis water filter? I have purchased a Whirpool Reverse Osmosis Water Filter which installs under the sink. I am trying to install it and have run into an issue with the drain: the revers osmosis filter has a red tube which needs to be connected to the drain of the sink, so that the waste water from the RO system can be disposed of. The RO filter kit comes with an adaptor to install the drain, and the manual says that for a double-barrel sink (which is what I have, the drain should be installed as follows:

However, I don't have enough room to install the drain adapter in the location they indicate (I have added a freehand circle for clarity). Here is an actual picture from under my sink:

The inset in the bottom right shows the drain adapter (on perfect proportion to the rest of the image). As seen in the indicated areas, the drain adapter, if installed under the right sink, is too tall and I will be unable to connect the right sink's drain to the P-trap.

How else can I install the drain for my reverse osmosis water filter? Can I somehow hook it up to the drain from the dishwasher? What is the cheapest and easiest way to install this RO filter without hiring a plumber?

EDIT: To clarify, I want to do this in a non-destructive way if possible. I.E. no cutting the existing pipes :-) I need to be able to remove the filter and restore the plumbing back the way it was if I move out.

I don't see any problem with installing it horizontally on the run between the two sinks. You'll probably need a new slip nut (the part that goes on top of the trap) but otherwise it can probably connect into the existing union that's there now. Just keep the piece that goes to the RO on the top (facing up).


How do I fix this noise coming from my fridge? My refrigerator (Bosch B22CT80SNS01) sits in an alcove and has begun intermittently making a noise from what seems to be the inside. At first I thought it was the water filter/lines having air, but I’ve switched the filter and cycled water for a few minutes. Running the water doesn’t stop the noise when it’s happening either, nor does it sputter.

It sounds like it’s behind an inside panel at the top, maybe a fan or something? See video below.

https://imgur.com/a/KBlKLYH

It turns out it was the air damper motor and so replacing the assembly did the trick! No more noise.


Why are lights on 15 amp circuits and receptacles on 20 amp? I'm wondering about the logic behind 15 amp vs 20 amp.  Why isn't everything 20 amp if it is considered safe?

If a light circuit shorts, what difference does it make it if trips at 15amp vs 20 amp?

Breakers protect wiring and connections. Most lighting circuits are done with #14 wire, which is adequate for the duty it performs. To prevent overheating (fire risk), 15A breakers are required by code for most circuits using #14 AWG wire. Lighter wire and other components are less expensive and easier to work with.

Many power tools, appliances, and other devices draw at or above 15A at startup or under load. It's often desirable to have more current capacity there than you'd need in a lighting circuit. 20A circuits are typically wired with #12 AWG wire to handle the additional current safely.

Simply put, each circuit has a different purpose. It's not just about short circuit protection, but available current load.


What is the best way to replace the subfloor under load bearing wall I am in the process of replacing the subfloor, a few joists, sill plate and header board. With the help of this community I have either worked out a plan or completed most of the parts of this task. From what I have read, to replace the subfloor under my load bearing walls, I need to brace it, pull the footer and hammer it back in when the floor is in. What is the best way to brace this wall so I can get a full 4x8 sheet of plywood under it?

Edit
I added a pic of the rafters in the attic, the row before the vent is sitting directly on that wall. Pic with the purple board is of the top of wall, there is another 2x4 hidden by ceiling. Obviously pic of bottom is just that.

If that wall is not a load bearing wall, and from your pictures it sure does not look like it, you could consider just dismantling it temporarily. Then just pull up the bottom plate. This would leave you fully open to replace the sub-flooring after which you can just rebuild that short piece of wall. It is only 5 studs and less and about two additional sheets of new drywall.

From your other pictures it certainly appears that you have quite a bit of rebuilding work to do already so re-doing that wall would not be too much additional.


Can small supply pipes be combined into a larger supply? we are installing a shower where two sinks used to be. Is it possible to combine the inbound water (1/2") from each sink into one 3/4" line for hot & cold to feed the Moen U valve we want to use to distribute water throughout the shower?

We will have the following in the shower:

2 or 4 body jets
1  10" jaclo showerhead
1  12" jaclo rainshower
1  handheld wand

Thanks for your help.

I'm not a plumbing code guru, but I see no problem with what you have planned. The only side effects I can think of are a slight increase in noise (due to the added turbulence) and the possibility of stagnant water in one side, should there be an odd flow imbalance.

Be aware that the two 1/2" lines may not be supplied by a 3/4" line, though. They may just split from a single 1/2" line, whereby your plan would be pointless. A split 1/2" line is probably more common for bathroom sinks, which don't require a lot of flow.


What tool can I use to block light from a 50W bulb? I bought a lamp & the incandescent bulb is not fully covered by the shade. Since the shade is at eye level that hurts my eyes. What can I use safely to block the light?  Any tape safe to use? Or does anything exist for such an issue?

I'm using 2 50W olden type incandescent bulbs with the lamp.

Lamp I got:

https://www.wayfair.ca/lighting/pdp/brayden-studio-davey-61-led-tree-floor-lamp-bstu5008.html?piid%5B0%5D=26194658&piid%5B1%5D=26194659

Photographers use Cinefoil to block light. They attach these foils to the barn doors of lights with pegs. You could try to clamp such foil to the shade, but make sure the peg itself is heat resistance. Don't fully cover/wrap the bulb/shade with foil. Bulbs can get extremly hot after some time. The heat of the bulb should have enough space to exit.

Examples of Cinefoil:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00915LB6M/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/44690-REG/Rosco_RS100113_Matte_Black_Cinefoil.html
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/50aa7079e4b040d142112688/t/576c2863893fc0c13dd81ad0/1466706022795/ (Cinefoil attached to barn door)

Downside: They are quiet pricey. Therefore a new shade might be cheaper.


What does water leak through my chimney and wood stove pipe? I bought a house n July 2017. The previous owners converted their fireplace into a wood stove years ago, a Garrison Stove in 1987 to be exact. My home inspector did not inspect the wood stove, but also did not say much about the installation. When I look up in the chimney, I see the wood stove pipe goes up the chimney and it's surrounded by a lot of fiberglass insulation where the flue damper is, at least that is what it looks like to me. We recently had some strong rain storms and I noticed water dripping from the wood stove pipe and the insulation and covering the bottom of the fireplace. This doesn't seem normal and I feel the install was done wrong, but what else could be causing the leak? How can I fix this? Or is it best to just get rid of the wood stove and revert back to a wood burning chimney?

There should not be anything dripping from your liner's insulation.

Your local chimney sweep should know how to inspect your liner and its top termination to determine if it was properly installed to conform to local code, including the installation instructions for that liner product. The space surrounding the liner should be covered (metal or masonry) to prevent entry of rain, snow, birds or other small animals, whether or not the liner itself has a rain cap or spark arrester. If your liner was required to be insulated (e.g., for purpose of helping induce a draft more quickly), it won't work very well if the insulation layer is soaking wet and then freezes.

You might browse through NFPA 211, a national standard for "Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid-fuel Burning Appliances", and the installation manual for the stove and for the chimney (if it's a factory-built liner).

When we recently had a liner installed for a gas-fired log (not the same, I know, but offered as illustration), the chimney kit included a cap device to support the new pipes (exhaust and combustion air) and to block off the top of the old flue. It was simply fastened to the top of the old chimney and the rain cap added to the new pipes.


What size junction box is needed for four 6 AWG copper wires? Can somebody tell me what size and type of J box do I need for 4 #6 AWG copper wire? Boxes will be located outside. Both will be just and access point since I have more that 360 degree bends. Wire will be continuous.

Any (exterior) type you like, with a volume of 20 cubic inches or more. 5 cubic inches per #6 wire.

Here's a calculator http://www.constructionmonkey.com/calculations/electrical/boxfill

You may find boxes  bit larger than the minimum make your life easier, or are needed to make reasonable connection to your conduit size, etc.

Look up "figure 8 coiling" before you install your wire - if you can't get enough people to have one standing by (each of) the middle box(es) while you pull it end-to end, pull from one box to the next and figure-8 coil the wire on the ground - then flip the coil over and pull the next segment (no tangles.)


Standard measures for buildings in the US? I've been looking for a reference guide on standard measures for common building elements in the US. That includes:

Standard ceiling height
Standard wall thickness
Standard door dimensions
Standard window dimensions (single, double, etc)

Does anyone know where I can get such information?

Ceiling height: 8 feet (nominal; 92-5/8" stud length plus 4-1/2" of plates), 9 and 10 feet less common (108" and 120" studs); vaulted ceiling peaks as room size and slope dictate

Wall thickness: interior, 3-1/2" (nominal 2x4) plus half-inch drywall on both sides; exterior, 5-1/2" (nominal 2x6) plus half-inch drywall inside, half inch sheathing outside, and an exterior finish. Thicker walls uncommon with high-efficiency designs

Doors: 28" and 30" for interior (nominal interior jamb width), 36" for handicap-accessible homes, 32" and 36" for exterior (42" uncommon)

Windows: No standard. Common heights are on the half-foot between 3 and 7 feet, but most manufacturers will offer sizes at 2 inch increments. Common widths from 18 inches to 12 feet.


Will my wood platform support my generator? I built a wood platform out of pressure treated lumber 6ft X 4ft 2x6 with beams every 16 inches and 2x6 deck.  It is bolted into the house 2x10 on the 6 ft rear wall and carriage bolted to an existing deck on one 4ft side.  It is carriage bolted to 4 4x4's that extend to a concrete driveway.

The generator weighs a total of 500 lb.  I need to compute the weight per square inch that the platform will support.

As long as everything is joined and fastened properly a 6'x4' platform framed and decked with 2x6 will hold much more than a 500 lbs generator.

Though I don't think I'd count a driveway as a proper footing for your posts.


Steel Entry Door Paint Removal I painted my front steel entry door before sanding it.  I used Glidden Door & Trim Paint and it is globbed all over.  How do I undo/remove the paint?

How do you feel about harsh chemicals? I'd take it off the hinges and use the worst nastiest stripper I can find. And by stripper I mean paint stripper not the other kind!

I'd stay away from anything that claims it is safe. You don't want safe, you want done! You want the stuff with the skull and crossbones right there on the front, the bigger the better.

So get your hose, big rubber gloves, and safety glasses and go to town.

Or you can use sandpaper and steel wool. You know, make a career out of it.


What is long-term impact of decorative boulders near a house foundation wall? I live in 1500 sq ft house with unfinished basement. I'm planning to put some stones outside house near walls (in garden). And have a plan to put some plants around it (for decoration).

My concern is the stones are heavy with roughly 2 to 3 tons each. I'm planning to put 4 stones. Does it have any long term impact on the structure of walls of basement? Does it put any kind pressure from outside?

As requested:
That far away I cant see any problem. Your soil had to be stable enough to put the basement in. I would not even worry about a monolith that far away.


How can I mount cabinetry to metal furring strips with shallow depth? I'm trying to mount IKEA Besta cabinets and a 55" tv to my condo wall.  The drywall is 1/2" and is attached to a concrete wall with 1" depth metal drywall furring strips spaced 24" apart.

I was thinking about using toggle bolts or spring toggles through the furring but there isn't enough space for them to open up (concrete wall in the way).

Are there any tricks to get this to work without opening the wall and adding support lumber?  (I'm assuming the toggle bolts would be strong enough to hold the cabinets) Any suggestions?

I usually use cement anchors. There are several types. Hammer-set are like a nail--you push them in through the support into the cement, then use a hammer to drive a pin in the center that causes the anchor to expand. They're quick and  easy but not easily removable.

Another type of expanding anchor is referred to by a brand name Red Head. Drill similar holes to the hammer-set, but with this one the sleeve is pushed into the hole and a bolt is tightened, causing the expansion (the bolt holds the support in place). If you want to remove this type of anchor, remove the bolt and the anchor can be pushed into the hole.

These are the 2 types I use the most often and neither requires the wall to be opened. Both are many times stronger than toggle bolts.


Do I really need to use primer when painting an unfinished concrete floor? I'm turning a one car garage into an office and want to paint the floor. I bought some Behr concrete paint, and the guy at Home Depot insisted that I have to put down a layer of primer first.

Do I really? This garage may have held a car a long time ago, but the floor doesn't look greasy at all. I'm not going to be parking a car in here, it's going to be an office with pretty light wear and tear. Also, I'm lazy, so I'm willing to gamble on this unless it's really stupid.

Probably yes.  And probably an oil based primer unless the can says otherwise.  On top of that a concrete primer if they exist.  If you don't prime then you run the risk of the paint peeling, especially since garage floors are so smooth.  Plus you might run through way more paint than you think and need to get more since concrete is so porous, it will soak it up like  a sponge. You don't have to of course, but how much is the paint vs primer? If paint is more get the primer as well.  And get an extension pole for the roller and everything will go fast.


Dry wall, mounting 13KG whiteboard So I just bought a 1800mm by 1200mm whiteboard for my study and what never occurred to me (stupidly enough) is how to mount this thing to a drywall.

It has obviously came with x8 raw plugs and x8 screws (2 each corner).

I am not sure how thick the drywall is, but the house is 20 years old and there is no holes anywhere (and 2 kids were brought up here).

What are my options here?

Drywall (Gypsum board) is not sufficient for hanging things (other than maybe very light picture frames), you'll want to attach the whiteboard to the underlying structure. How you do that, will depend on what the structure is.


Why does my nat gas furnace pilot light stay lit at normat temp setting, but goes out when I bump the temp up a couple degrees? Recently the gas company replaced our meter and thermocouple.  After they left, the pilot light kept going out randomly.  4 techs came over a 3 day period and could not diagnose except to reassure that the meter and thermocouple were working fine.  Then HVAC man came and found lose wires on the gas control valve, apparently knocked lose by the gas co tech.  Furnace will cycle perfectly and pilot stays on as long as the thermostat temp is maintained at the same temp, but whenever I bump the temp up a couple of degrees, the pilot goes out either during the cycle or upon shut off.

This is a tough one without being there to see it.... The only thing that I can come up with is that you have a 2 stage or modulating gas valve and that when you have your thermostat set at a constant temperature your furnace is only operating on the 1st stage gas flow, but when you bump the setpoint on your thermostat up to a higher setting then the 2nd stage or higher modulation is called for and therefor a higher gas pressure is admitted to the main burners.
This second stage pressure may be set incorrectly (too high) and causing the pilot flame to be pulled away from the thermocouple during the heating cycle which will cause the pilot thermocouple to cool off enough to cause the pilot safety to shut down the main gas valve and pilot burner. One other thing could be that if you do have a 2 stage or modulating gas valve and the main burner is shut off before the gas pressure is stepped down to the first stage then the sudden main burner shut down could cause turbulence and be snuffing out the pilot at the end of the cycle. This shut down could be from numerous things like a high temperature limit or other safety device shutting down the main burner while it is in the higher stage burn.


The lighting in my house is dimly light when the switches are off, but only the LED's are lighly lit, the other types of lights just lighly flicker My house has led lights that are dimly light when the switch is off. They light up fully when the switch is in the on position. when I measured the voltage at the light socket I got 40 volts when the switch was in the off position, the light in my laundry room reads 35 volts when the switch is in the off position, the light in the laundry room works when the switch is put in the on position. I think it's a back fed neutral. I have the lighted switches in my house, could that have anything to do with it. when the first light in the hallway to my basement is screwed out of the socket and the light in the laundry room is also screwed out of the socket the light in the kitchen which is not an LED, but one of those older spiral lights, flickers more. both the two lights that I screwed out are LEDs.

I'm assuming that your lighted switches are lit when the switch is off. These work by passing a low current through the load to provide power to the built-in light. With normal incandescent lights as load, the current is too low to make them glow. However, the LEDs take so little power, that this small current will light them.

If you want to use LEDs, you probably need to either replace the switches or have at least one incandescent bulb on the switched circuit.


What could cause my sink to drain slowly? Sometimes our bathroom sink will drain so slowly (with the water running) that the water will fill it faster than it can drain.

However, after shutting the water off and letting it completely subside, it will typically drain properly the rest of the day and for the next several.

Then after a few days it will repeat its previous behavior.

Running Drano through the pipes has not seemed to have made a difference.

What could cause this behavior?

Remove the trap from the tailpiece of the wash bowl and see if it needs cleaning.
Check your main vent stack that goes through the roof for any obstructions. Verify that a bird has not made a nest there.
If the sink was not installed by a plumber and has always had this problem, an air vent pipe may not have been installed or was installed incorrectly.


Removing L-shaped elbow underneath a kitchen sink I'd like to remove the L-shaped elbow that appears in the figure below.

I'm able to twist by hand only the lower of the two rings locking the L-shaped elbow in place.

Is it safe to seek a tool to disassemble with a bit more torque?
What is the name of this black ring and/or the tool that would be used to turn it. Notice there are two extra-large projecting tabs that would be broken if an ordinary wrench is used to grip.

I'm assuming that the sluggishness is due to blockage in this (left) side since there are two sides and the flow in the other side is swift.

The nut on the left is threading down onto the black elbow, you need to know this in order to turn it the correct direction. If you think that it is threading up onto the white one then you would be turning it the wrong way and tightening it.

Put your channel lock pliers on the nut so the handles are to the left and move the pliers handles to the right, this should loosen the nut.


No Hot water to Shower and Taps furthest away from hot water tank I have this setup coming off of my hot water tank.

Recently I started getting only luke warm water to the taps and shower furthest away from the water heater(#9 & #10), also sometimes my cold taps would run warm.  The taps and showers closest did not have this issue. I cannot seem to find a recirculating pump or any sort of mixing valves in the system. This issue only started once I installed new filters into the Filtration system. Is it possible to have this system without a mixing valve/recirculating pump?

1) The red line that is teed into the blue line after the check valve could be used as a recirculating line to provide almost instant hot water to all the hot faucets. Make sure that you add a check valve in that line so you do not get reverse water flow when a faucet is turned on. 2) The supply line to the heat pump should come from the bottom of the storage tank so it utilizes the coldest water to be heated,  and not come off the hot supply from the storage tank.  3)The hot discharge from the heat pump should go to a separate tap near the middle of the tank if one is available. If a separate tapping  connection point is not available I would then tee it into the cold blue line at the tank supply but after the check valve. 4) I believe that a circulation pump is required in the heat pump line sized as per the heat pump's instruction sheet. 5) One last thing, if the red line I mentioned in item #1 is for a  recirculating line to insure almost instant hot water at each faucet it can stay as is and you will need to install a pump  on that line to circulate the water (buy the smallest pump you can) Mine is a B&G NBF-8S  103257LF 39 watts. 6) you said that you did not show the cold supply (mistake).


What can I do if my wood boiler keeps tripping the high limit switch? I just installed a outdoor wood boiler and added 2nd thermostat in house. When I start wood boiler the high limit switch gets hot and trips. The only way I can keep it going is to put a jumper wire in and bypass switch. But then fan runs all the time and gets to hot in house. Any ideas how to fix.

the fan should be run off of the aquastat with this limit switch only being used as a safety.  If your boiler were to run away and get over the 200 degree limit, the switch will open removing power to the fan, smothering the fire and cooling.  The limit switch has to be manually reset in order for your fan to kick back on.  I am going through a situation where my limit switch is set at 200 degrees, and my aquastat shuts my fans off at 190 to 195, so I have to constantly go out there to reset the limit switch.  My solution for this problem is they make limit switches for different temperatures, and I am going to install a 220 degree limit switch.  Hope this helps!


Does anything need to be done to prep the ground before building a low height deck? Previously I asked about How to add on to a concrete patio? I am still considering my options and am now considering making a wood deck instead of a concrete patio. The deck would be about 14 feet by 14 feet and the top would sit about 8 inches above the ground in one corner and about 14 inches off the ground in the opposite corner.

The question Can I build a deck this low to the ground? addresses the concern of having wood sitting so close to the ground, but my concern is more about what will actually happen under the deck. Could I have any problem with creatures or fungus or something along those lines making a home under my deck with not enough space for a human to clean out under the deck? Is there anything that can be done to the ground to discourage this from happening? Should I just bring the edge of the deck all of the way to ground, or would leaving an air gap help? Or am I just over thinking this?

The biggest concerns I would have are things growing under the deck and critters moving in. I would grade the area to help with drainage so water won't puddle and spray the area with round-up or something similar.You might want to cover the ground with landscapers fabric so nothing can take root.Then spread a layer of crushed stone to hold it all in place.I would make sure the sides are covered with lattice maybe even put window screen behind it.This would still allow ventilation but keep out the critters.


Replacing Vintage Carlon Thyrocon Rotary Dimmer with Lutron Skylark S603-PGH Sliding Dimmer Happy new year!  I'm trying to replace an old rotary dimmer with a newer slider/switch and could really use your help.  I searched and searched and couldn't really find someone with the same wiring conundrum I am about to explain.
It's currently configured in a 3-way configuration.  There is a rotary switch/dimmer (press in to turn on/off) that controls an overhead light in the dining room.  The kitchen next door has a 2-gang with one switch turning the dining room light on/off.  Dim level is persistent with the rotary switch - that is to say if you turn the light on from the kitchen, the dim level is  that to which the rotary is currently set.  On the rotary it says 'Carlon Thyrocon' and elsewhere on it 500W.  I couldn't find any datasheets or anything about this device besides that it may be 'vintage' based on a couple lot descriptions on ebay. It has 2 red wires and a black wire coming out the back.  Here's where things get confusing for me: the switch box seems to have a single 4-wire romex coming through - so red, white, black and bare copper ground.  From the rotary to the romex it is wired black <-> black, one red <-> red, other red <-> white. bare ground is connected to the metal of the  switch box.  This is not what i was expecting for a 3-way configuration. As stated i have a lutron dimmer i would like to connect.  Wiring available on the Lutron is one green, one red, one red with white stripe, one black wire.  The Lutron instructions recommend connecting - again from switch to wiring box - black <-> tagged (i believe common) black, red <-> other black (i believe one traveler wire), red with white stripe <-> red (i believe other traveler wire), green to bare copper.  So as you can see, the wiring in the box does not seem to match what is expected in convention.  My guess is they just used whatever spool of wire to do the job so there is likely (hopefully) a convention in use throughout this house - but unfortunately no Rosetta Stone to translate between that and expected wiring convention.  I could also not know what I'm talking about of course. I have attached a picture - i hope it helps to illustrate what i am trying to convey.  Unfortunately i don't have access to any test tools here (dmm for example) so i'm going to need a little ingenuity to get this thing hooked up safely. Thank you sincerely to anyone who's reading right now (or made it this far) - I genuinely appreciate any advice you all may have.

Jayce

Colors don't mean much
The color of wires in house-wiring cable (NM, UF) is only mildly meaningful as to their function, as you have observed, due to the fact that all such cables use the same color scheme (black/white/bare, with red for a second hot, blue for a third hot, and red/white striped for a second neutral).  As a result, grouping and connectivity are the main pieces of information that convey the meaning of wires in household wiring.
This is easy, though
What you're looking at here is the end of a 3-way switch spur; the existing dimmer is wired with its black common wire to the black wire from the cable, its red traveler wires to the red and white wires from the cable, and its ground connected to the bare ground wire in the cable.  The new dimmer wires up much the same way as a result: its black wire goes to the black wire from the cable, its red and red/white (traveler) wires go to the red and white traveler wires from the cable, and its green ground wire connects to the bare ground wire from the cable and a grounding pigtail to the box.


How do I remove floorboard nails from joists? How do I remove floorboard nails from joists?

The nails are ~3-4mm diameter with no heads.

I've tried claw-hammer and wrecking bar with no success because without nail-heads, I cannot get purchase.

I guess I could attack them with a hacksaw and leave the lower part embedded, but I don't like that notion very much because around some of the nails, rust-stains are spreading which I guess is a vector for damp (??).

Another method is to get pliers and a block of wood about the height of the extended nail ( protruding out the wood). Grab the nail out the side of the pliers and insert the block of wood between the joist and the head of the pliers. then use the leverage to pull the nail out, this is also great because it will not damage your wood.


Should I clean (how?) old drywall before applying mud? I have screwed a new piece of drywall. Now I need to try to apply mud and finally paint. Should I clean, wash the old painted drywall first? If yes, how? It does not stand out in this picture but the old drywall is very dirty.

Clean with TSP.  You can use a sponge for the tsp.  I've used a big bucket and a bee mop.  You just need to be able apply some force while cleaning.  In your case that is a small area, a sponge is good.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/t-s-p--trisodium-phosphate-powder-400-g/1000130976

Paint with primer.

Then tape and mud.


Our hot water heater is gas, and it only has low med. and high temperature settings. Which setting is the safest to use for our home? Our hot water tank is gas, and only has high, med, and low temperature settings. Which one is the safest setting for our single home?

Start at medium, or at the current setting, if you already have it connected.

Go to the nearest hot water faucet, let the faucet run for 3 or 4 minutes.

Put a thermometer into the stream of water. NOTE, your finger is not a thermometer.

If the temp is higher than 115F, then your heater is set too high.

If the temp is under 100F, it will feel warm at best in the shower, it is too low.

In a perfect world, you have a mixing or tempering valve. This lets you mix some cold water with the water coming out of the heater, allowing you to get 'baby bear' temperature - just right.


Is it typical for the metal of corner bead to be exposed after it is finished being mudded? I hired a company to finish the drywall job in my room.  One of the things that sticks out like a sore thumb is the exposed edges of corner bead.  I have never seen corner bead exposed like this.  Isn't it supposed to be covered with a coat of mud or are you actually supposed to paint over it?

Examine any corner in any building and you'll find that the paint is on plaster, not metal.  (Interior paint - even with primer - will scrape off of metal way too easily)

The plaster is supposed to just cover the metal corner, neatly.

In short - your drywallers (if these are the same guys who botched all the screws) suck.


Plastic Wall Anchors Without a Collar I have installed some new toilet paper holders in my house.  They came with cheap plastic wall anchors without a collar on them.  I threw them away and used different anchors, because every time I try to use the ones without a collar I push them into the wall.  Is there a trick I am missing for these anchors without the collar?  A lot of stuff comes with them now, and apparently I am not smart enough to use them.

I really hate the anchors that come with most wall accessories.  I always throw them away and opt for my own anchors.  I love the self tapping screw in type. They look like an over sized masonry or self tapping screw. So easy to use, simply insert the sharp point on your mark, no drilling required and use a #2 phillips screwdriver to screw them into your drywall. They come in different weight ratings. I use the 40 pound rated ones for most everything. They tighten snug to the wall and accept a #6 or 8 screw of your choice.(the kit comes with three different color screws) I buy them at Lowes, but unfortunately I don't have any original packaging with the brand name on them, but I will find out and post it in a comment later. They also work great when you have an existing hole from a previous anchor failure, as long as the hole is not much more than 3/8 inch in diameter.


Replacing old for New Honeywell thermostat Old thermostat had a jumper between RH
And RC, iam replacing that with a Honeywell
Programmable thermostat, but idk if
I should replace this jumper on new ther
mostat ? And if so, should I remove
Metal jumper  (already in place) on new thermostat?  No clue what I’m doing

RH & RC are jumpered at the factory because most systems have only one transformer whether that is heating or cooling or both. If this is the case with your system, leave the jumper in place.  If you have a heating system combined with a cooling system and if both of those systems have their own transformer or if you have any two different system controlled by one thermostat and they have separate transformers then and only then do you pull the jumper.


Adding USB Dual Port Charger Receptacle Blows Mains I purchased a Hubbell "USB Dual Port Charger with 15A Duplex Receptacle" from Lowes to replace the duplex receptacle on my kitchen island.

I first opened the circuit labelled for the island.  The breaker takes two slots.  I removed the existing receptacle and noticed that the brass screws had a black and red wire.  The bridge between the screws was not broken.

I connected the new USB charging receptacle as: white wire to silver screw, bare to green screw, and the black and red wires to the brass screw.  I put everything back together.

When I closed the circuit the fuse blew as well as tripping the mains to the house.  I took the receptacle out of the metal gang box to ensure that it wasn't touching.  I verified the connections as stated above.  With the receptacle hanging outside of the gang box I closed the breaker only to have it and the mains trip.

I reconnected the old simple receptacle and closed the breaker with no problems.  I tried with just the black wire in the new receptacle and it worked!  But now I can't connect the new receptacle with this new red wire.

I researched the uses of the red wire however none of them seem to apply to my kitchen.  The fuse box lists the island as the only part to control and nothing else in the kitchen turned off when I opened the circuit.  There is only one receptacle on the island and no other electrical items including lights.

Why would the kitchen island of only one receptacle require both black and red? why would this USB charger receptacle be so sensitive to two hot wires? why would this single outlet require such a large breaker switch?

And finally... is there anything I can do so that I can install this receptacle?

Thanks!

"The bridge between the screws was not broken" Are you 100% sure of that? Because the common use for black and red wires and a two-pole breaker in a kitchen outlet circuit is for a common neutral circuit (multiwire branch circuit), and shorting the two phases together with the new outlet would produce exactly the symptoms you have seen. So I'm going to suggest that the two sides of the old outlet are not actually connected, and if you don't have a meter you can check that with, I'll provide you an alternate test that does not involve looking at the connection, which you've already done and come to (I suspect) the wrong conclusion about:

Cap the red (or black) wire and connect only the black (or red) wire to the old outlet. Plug something into one receptacle, and see if has power. Then plug it into the other side. Repeat with the other wire (only) connected to the other side (only.) If I'm right, in each case, only half the outlet will have power, and which half will change with which screw you connect to.

It appears that the device you have probably only has one hot screw, so it cannot be connected the same way as the old outlet with two separate hots; so leave one wire capped off, or install it somewhere other than your kitchen (the reason for using this type of circuit in the kitchen is to provide more circuits to the countertop outlets - this device defeats that if it cannot have two separate hot feeds.)


How do I determine the amount of paint needed for a room? I'm not very handy; thus I'm very new to this. Forgive my ignorance.

Is there a proper method or means of determine how much paint is needed to paint an entire room?

Or there isn't a way because paint viscosity is very different from paint to paint?

A can of paint will often indicate how much area it will cover. A general rule of thumb is 350 sq ft per gallon (as Shirlock mentions, use 250-300 sqft/gal for the first coat). Calculating the area of the walls and ceiling involves some basic math: multiply the length * width (or height) of the ceiling (or wall), then subtract any openings.


Lamp between switches in multiway-switching I've noticed that using my mains tester the light in the screwdriver lights up regardless of the position of the light switch near the door. It seems to only not light up when both switches are in some "off" position (although you can't see which is on/off).

I thought that the lamp is after the two switches so even if one of them is in "on" position and the other one in "off" the wire should be dead and only be hot if both are in the "on" position.

So... if this isn't the case at my appartment does this mean that the lamp is actually between these two switches so that when the first switch is in "on" position the wire at the lamp is hot?

(Actually yes, there's no such thing as on/off position. In usual multiway switching they just need to be both in the same position for the circuit to be closed.)

I'm guessing your are using a proximity type tester. Some are very sensitive to any electrical current even static charge. So if you have a wire next to a hot wire yet is disconnected from the circuit, mutual induction will cause some trace voltage with very small (milliamp) current and yes it will register on your sensor. Thes type of sensors will tell you current is present but they don't do much more than that.

If you are concerned, try using an ammeter it has settings that will give you voltage and current strength.


Need help to remove protective cover from light bulb I need to remove this protective cover from my light fixture. I've tried to turn the protective cover, ive pulled on it, and I've tried to remove this specific light from the fixture.

I've tried the same on the other 2 working lights with no success as well, so I'm at a loss. I haven't had the bulb burn out since I bought the house 5 years ago and have no instruction manuals or know the name of the fixture to be able to look up online how to take it off.

Would really appreciate any guidance that anyone has on how to remove it.

!

There is probably a set screw on the metal base, perpendicular to the direction that you insert the bulb (or parallel to the plane of the ceiling). There might even be 2 or 3 screws. You need to loosen (but not remove) them, they hook under a lip of the glass enclosure to hold it in place. Be careful to not drop it.

I circled the screws in this photo:


Repair old garage workbench I have this old garage workbench that seems very sturdy

The wood is OK, I could replace the door.

But the surface's corner has cracking like this:

This is done from previous owner. I would like to fix it somehow. What is that thin strip of wood outside? It seems like it's harden by some chemical process (not paint or maybe...).

That looks like hardboard, "High density fibreboard" to use its full name.

AKA "Masonite"(tm)


Running Ethernet between floor and finished celing I'm trying to run an Ethernet cable through my house, The router is in the living room, which is above the only finished room in the basement (go figure), so I'm trying to figure out how to get the cable from the living room, into the laundry room so I can run it into a different room on the main floor. My question is, how do I run the cable between the living room floor and the ceiling in the basement. There is a coax cable that goes to the living room, and I was hoping to somehow use it as a guide WITHOUT removing it, I don't want to screw that cable up. The coax cable comes out in the laundry room, through a tight gap between the wall and the furnace, so sticking something through that gap to grab the cable isn't really possible. Thank you for any suggestions.

It may be possible to use the coax cable to pull your CAT 6.
Remove the coax wall plate and pull the cable off the back of the plate (or otherwise get the cable freed from the wall).
Securely tape sturdy, but thin string or twine to the end of the coax. Pull the coax back through the wall to an access point in the laundry room. Doing so will pull the string through the wall, leaving a "bread crumb trail" back through any holes that were drilled for the coax.
Securely tape your CAT 6to the coax cable. Using the tape, make a tapered lead end around the coax and around the CAT 6. I'd suggest that not having an end on the CAT 6 would be the way to go - it's a big square thing that will catch, while the cable itself is fairly small and will slip through holes easier.
Carefully pull the string back through the walls until the coax and CAT 6 pop out at the original location.
Terminate the CAT 6, reattach the coax to the plate, and presto! (You may want to upgrade to a plate that has a coax and RJ45 jack so you have a nice, tidy finished look.)
NOTE: all this is predicated on:

The coax not being attached to the walls anywhere.

Any single wire staple anywhere in the walls will prevent the coax from pulling out in the first place.

There being no sharp bends in the coax cable run.

When the cable was first run with the wall open, it could make some fairly sharp bends. Once the wall is covered and you're tugging from 15+ feet away, it's far less likely.

The cable(s) and string not separating.

You'd probably be better off tying the string behind the barrel connector of the coax, then taping over it as a 2nd method of attachment

The holes in the studs being big enough to pull the coax and CAT 6 through.

It's entirely possible that the original installer drilled a 1/4" hole to pull the 3/16" thick coax through (actual dimensions may vary, numbers quoted for demonstrative purposes only) and terminated the cable once it was run. If this is the case, the coax won't pull back through the wall.
It's possible there's enough room to get the barrel connector through the wall, but not the connector, cable and an extra piece of CAT 6.

If this doesn't work, you may have to bit the bullet and cut a couple of access holes in the ceiling to pull the cable, then patch & paint when you're done.


Tile placement (wall and floor) Is it wrong if the bathroom floor tiles' ends are not under the wall tiles? Does that affect a bathroom's ability to repel water?

P.S.: My contractor tiled the walls first and even though he left some gap between the floor and the first tiles on the wall, it is not sufficient for all the floor tiles to be placed under it..

There is always going to be a grout line as long as the void is filled and it dosent look bad compared to the width of the other grout lines it will be fine once sealed.


Two black wires into same terminal on light switch I've replaced a number of switches in my house following the Lutron instructions, but the wiring below is not covered.

My question is: on my new Lutron switch (one is already visible in the picture), would I cap wires "A" and "B" together with the black wire on the Lutron switch to be installed?

To make wiring easier, could I just cap wire B into group C?

Also, this is a new house (just built four months ago).  Is this a standard way to wire a house?

Thanks all!

A and B are already connected.  The switch in the photo provides both backstab and screw connections which are internally connected within the switch. The builder prefers backstab connections (because they're faster; their poor reliability isn't his problem), and when he needed a second connection he used the screw also.

It looks like A is a pigtail from the wirenut to the switch.  I imagine that before, it was a jumper to the other switch, but then, you added that smart switch, which necessitated a pigtail.  Given the presence of the pigtail, sending B to the switch is stupid.  B should immediately be pried out of the switch and added to wirenut C.

From there, if you are replacing that switch with another smart switch, I imagine A will be replaced by the smart switch's pigtail.

To help you lose your mind less in that box, look at the wire that attaches to the left smart switch's red wire; I would tag that with red tape.  The right wire on the right switch, I would tag that with blue tape. They are both switched-hots going to a light or fan.

Remember you must never, ever put a dimmer on a fan or receptacle! Check all your receptacles and make sure they are not switched by any of these switches (this is a common "feature" in newer homes). If you really, really want to do that, there are a couple of technical solutions.


Why do building contractors turn down jobs, such as when the homeowner wishes to provide materials? When it comes to remodels/renovations, wherein the entire home is being completely gutted and everything is being redone, is this ever the type of project that contractors will turn down despite it being a stable and high-paying job? If contractors will turn down such a project, why is that? Does the homeowner having already picked out/purchased everything that they want for the project (flooring, cabinets, etc.) impact a contractors decision on whether or not to take the job? What can a homeowner do to find contractor who will take the job?

Contractor here. My opinion only.

Contractors turn down jobs for a million reasons. Maybe they don't agree that your job is 'stable and high paying'. (Parenthetically, you can't know anything about their cost of doing business, so 'high paying' is an exceptionally variable metric.) Maybe they're busy. Maybe you ring alarm bells.

Speaking of alarm bells, the client buying everything sets off alarm bells for some contractors. I'm not saying any of the following applies to you, but here are some beliefs that some contractors hold:

materials are purchased by the client because the client is cheap. Or they want too big a project. Or they think they're being cheated by the contractor.
clients buy crappy materials at a big box store that are inconsistent and cause nothing but trouble during install. Install trouble costs time, which might or might not be paid for.
when the materials are a failure, the contractor shoulders the blame. (Even when it's clearly outlined otherwise in the contract.) The majority of contractors are in business to provide good service, have happy repeat customers, and get paid. Getting blamed for crappy materials gets in the way of all of that.
smart contractors buy materials to be on site at the right time. Neither too late (which causes schedule havoc) nor too early (which can cause materials to be in the way and/or get damaged). Some clients aren't responsive to those needs.
when too little of something has been purchased, the contractor has to urgently find more (sometimes paid, sometimes not paid), which again causes schedule havoc.
when the absolute wrong thing has arrived, a client has less leverage with a supplier to make it right, right away. Schedule havoc.
complications from materials cost money. Either it comes out of the contractor's pocket (bad for the contractor), or they have fraught conversations with the client where they ask for more money because 'x took double the anticipated time to install' (also bad for the contractor). Some contractors will price these complications in at the outset, which makes them seem markedly more expensive than their competing peers (also bad for the contractor).

I suspect that buying your own materials slices off the top tier of good contractors. They are busy and don't need the headache of a client that rings any alarm bells. You might be opening yourself up to the middle tier of slightly more desperate and slightly less experienced contractors that haven't experienced the trouble described above.

Rant over.

This might not apply to you if you've already purchased materials, but perhaps others will consider this. A good contractor will sit you down to talk about a project. They'll understand your budget and desires. If you are looking for something durable, the contractor will suggest quality materials that they've used in the past and are willing to stand behind. They probably have a relationship with the supplier, so hiccups in the supply chain can get fixed relatively effortlessly. If the project outstrips budget, the good contractor will try to change the scope of the project, rather than throw cheap crap at it to bring the price down. Yes, the contractor will mark up the materials -- that covers discussions with the client, ordering, delivery, checking for defects and dealing with any issues. Plus there will be some profit added. (Don't be scandalized! There's profit built into everything a contractor does. Profit is used to invest in the business, to reward risk, to ensure longterm viability, etc. It's a rare construction business that doesn't try to generate profit.)