New circuit - Eaton Combined AFCI/GFCI Breaker Trips when any switch is thrown OK, so I have spent the entire weekend upgrading the last remaining old circuit in my 1943 home. It is comprised of 5 switches for overhead fixtures (details below).
Before I changed this all out, all switches were ungrounded (2 conductor only) and were switch loops. What I did was remove every bit of the cloth wire and rewired all switches as a normal switch leg and not a switch loop.
I have the following:
3 switches that are powering a single light fixture. (Meaning, a 1 to 1 switch to fixture leg).
2 switches that are the dual type that are connected to a ceiling fan light combo. 1 switch for fan, 1 for the light.
From the panel, I have a line running to a J-Box that has a joint that provides the supply to 2 of the 5 switches directly and then another line that goes up into the attic to another J-Box that then provides the joints for the remaining 3 switches.
14/2 (except for the rooms where the ceiling fans are, where I am providing the switch leg with a 14/3 of course).
All switches have the common hot on one side and the fixture hot on the other. Neutrals are combined in the boxes and connected at the fixtures. Grounds are all bonded to the metal boxes and fixture boxes as well as connected together as required (except one that is in a plastic old work box due to size restraints).
Everything in the circuit is straightforward. I am super careful pulling wire and inspecting to ensure nothing is nicked. I am always pretty OCD about my electrical work and everything is connected with appropriate size wire nuts (though I do use push in connectors for my grounds in some cases, but never for hots or neutrals).
In the LC panel, I am using an Eaton AFCI/GFCI combined BRN115A1CS. 15a, single pole. I have never used one of these before (never used a GFCI nor an AFCI breaker to be perfectly honest, but figured now is as good a time as any to start).
I can turn the breaker on and it stays on. Tests appropriately. However, whenever I flip on ANY of these switches, it trips immediately. LED code is 5 blinks which is Ground Fault/ or Grounded Neutral.
"Current has found an alternative path to ground, or the neutral and ground are in contact downstream of the breaker"
I am baffled at this point since I surely don't think anything I wired would be in this state (seriously, I am VERY meticulous).
Now, here is the big question that may be the simple answer and shows my ignorance of requirements for GFCI breakers - to use a GFCI breaker, does the neutral and ground have to be on separate bus bars? Up until now, in my main (and since it is my main), I have bonded neutral and ground bus bars. This seems, though, that this would be upstream, correct?
Of course, I will start to go back through all of my switches and fixtures, but is there anything that I have stated that would indicate a problem right off the bat? Thanks!

Found it.
After about 30 minutes of troubleshooting, I found the problem. It is amazing how sensitive the breakers are. This 1/16" exposed neutral from the push in connector wasn't touching the metal box, but was really close to it, maybe 1/32"-1/16" away and it was causing it to trip. Ironically, I hardly ever use these push in connectors, as mentioned, except for grounds in some cases and this happened to be the ONLY non-ground joint that I used a push connector in. I had pushed it into the connector and then thought, wait, I don't want to use that on the neutral, but had already pushed it in so figured one wouldn't hurt. Wrong. Removed from the push in and put it under a nut and problem has been solved.


Replace single-pole switch with 3-way and add additional 3-way switch. Non-conventional solution needed I have a single pole switch with 4 lights, that I want to replace with a 3-way switch. Power currently runs to the switch.  I don't have a way (without drilling a lot of holes, which is really not an option) to run 14/3 wire to the desired location for the 2nd switch.  Is it possible to add the other 3-way switch to the end of the light run without rewiring all the lights with 14/3. What would that wiring scenario look like?  If not feasible, what are my other options?

Smart Switches to the Rescue
There are a lot of different smart switches available as solutions. The methods I know of to handle "3 way" switching with smart switches are:

Piggyback on existing 3-way wiring

This works well if you have existing 3-way switches but want additional features such as multi-location dimming or remote control. Does not help you

Piggyback on regular wiring

Some smart switches can use regular wiring in a more flexible way by sending signals over the wiring instead of simply switching between wires. That might help you here, if you can run a cable from the other end of the lights (which it sounds like you may be able to do), this may be an option.

Wireless

Note that this does not necessarily mean WiFi. There are a number of different wireless systems available. A typical smart switch system that includes WiFi capability may have the WiFi part connected only to one "main" switch with the other switches "talking" to the main switch via a different protocol. So security is a concern but you may not actually need to connect your switches to a potentially vulnerable WiFi network in order to get wireless capability.
The big advantage of the 2nd switch being wireless is no wires to run, at all!. The disadvantage, of course, is the need to change a battery periodically. But modern devices are incredibly low power and your particular situation sounds ideal for this solution.
There are plenty of choices. One example (I have no connection to the company in any way) is Lutron Caseta. According to the FAQ page, the Pico remotes are designed to last 10 years on a single battery.
Be careful though - make sure anything you get is UL Listed (or equivalent). While the remotes are harmless, the "main" switch will be hooked up to 120V (US) or 240V (elsewhere) and you don't want to take chances on "substandard" items.


How to seal hole from bundle of ethernet cables running through wall/floor? I'm setting up a home ethernet network in a spare bedroom. I envision running up to two dozen ethernet cables out of a patch panel in this room to the rest of the house. I'll likely bundle these cables, punch through an interior wall and down into our crawl space.

How do folks recommend getting this many cables out of the room and down to the crawl space?

When I've previously run single ethernet cables between rooms, I've drilled small holes in bottom plates and sealed up these holes with caulk.

But, to make a hole large enough for 24 cables, I'm picturing having to make a much bigger hole. Sealing a hole this big with caulk seems like a mess, particularly if I have to run new cables in the future. But, if I don't seal the hole, I worry we'll get vermin coming up from the crawl space into the house (we've got a mouse problem).

I've also seen recommendations to place the cables in a pipe or conduit running down to the crawl space. But, it seems you'd have the same problem at the end -- how do you seal the end of the conduit where the cables come out?

Conduit & Patch Panel

If you're patch panel is embedded in the wall, you might need some additional structural support around it. I would make 2 runs of 2" conduit down to your crawl out of the patch panel. The reason for using conduit rather than just plain wires is that it makes a more finished result and will be easier to add new wires/remove  wires in the future. It'll also be easier to seal it with fire resistant caulk. Once you get into your crawl, you can just put a bushing on the end to terminate the conduit and run your Ethernet freely. Ethernet is low voltage which allows you to run it how you see fit. However, my recommendation would be to use zip-tie tags to group the cables together by room and use the label to notate which room the cables lead to. You can keep the cables up off the ground with zip-ties with screw mounts. However, it's critical not to over tighten the zip ties as it can damage the cable.

Fire Block

Most places require that all holes between levels of a building be sealed with some fire block. There are several different methods for this, but probably the easiest with fire-resistant caulk. Basically, the job of the caulk is to seal off the cavity so that the fire in one area cannot use the small holes in the cavity to pull air from to fuel itself. When the caulk is heated up, it expands in the hole working to keep a consistent seal. Another purpose is to prevent the fire from spreading up the wire.


Is it OK to expose drain pipes on the exterior of your house? I live in San Francisco, and my kitchen sink drain goes through my wall towards outside of the wall of the house into a light well.  The steel pipes have rusted out so I want to replace them with ABS.  Does any one know if this is legal or to code in SF?  I have read that it is recommended to use a heavier duty pipe for more resistance to UV rays so maybe that would be “more” to code.  Please advise!

I spoken with the San Francisco Building Code inspector and they said ABS exposed pipes are allowed as long as it is coated with UV protected paint since it’s located outdoors.  Also ABS used for DWV applications are only allowed for buildings up to 2-stories private and commercial. For mixed material couplers, I would need to find a coupler made specifically for steel to plastic.  Thanks @jim for telling me just to call the inspector.


Bathroom sink faucet handle is tight causing it to work off the nut holding to sink. Can the handle be fixed? You can see in the picture a faucet handle ( cold ) for a bathroom sink.  The handle/lever on top is very tight to turn, so when you move it it forces the base, which caused to work off the nut under the sink.
Instead of replaceing the entire fixture, can this type of handle be taken apart and repaired?  I see no set screws, only what is in the picture.
I appreciate your help.

This is not an issue with the handle. You need to find our why the valve that the handle turns is so stiff. Often you can disassemble the valve and lube it up with plumber's grease to make them turn easier, other times it is not so simple; it depends on the valve and the problem.


QO Main Service Panel - Ground lug question - CT resident I have a fairly new QO main svc panel (QO142M200PCAFVP) which is being used as a service panel (bonded, not a sub-panel). The green screw (top right) bonds the panel appropriately.
The main 3 connectors are identified (120v/120v/neutral).  There is a smaller lug next to the neutral lug which I don't see being utilized anywhere, marked in green "???" in my picture. It can take a 4GA or maybe slightly bigger wire.
What is the official role of that lug, and can I throw my outside ground wire (attached to an 8ft ground rod) on it?
Thank you very much for the explanation below, "ThreePhaseEel"!
The resulting service panel wiring is in the second picture.

That lug is intended to be used as a grounding electrode conductor termination, but can be used as an extra neutral instead
The Square-D neutral design basically intends for the grounding electrode conductor ("outside-ground-rod wire" or water pipe bond wire) to be landed on the N-G strap at the lug you point out, with the larger lug next to it used for the service neutral, and the bond to the panel cabinet provided by the green screw through the neutral intertie crossbar; this keeps all the busbar holes provided by the panel free for branch neutrals and grounds.
However, since you have removed the bonding screw, and are using a wire as your bonding jumper instead, NEC 250.24(D) permits you to do as Harper describes and use the left-hand equipment grounding bar to land your grounding electrode conductor instead.  As a result of this, you can now use the lug you point out as a spare branch neutral lug to make up for losing a branch neutral hole to the bonding jumper.  Doing as you and the manufacturer intend and using the small lug on the neutral strap for the grounding electrode conductor is fine still, though.


How to connect when there are 2 cables of ceiling light I found some similar questions but none actually sort out my problem.
I bought a new IKEA light fitting and its electrical box has 4 holes (2 for N and 2 for L). The instruction said to put 1 N to N and 1 L to L. And I saw many videos online doing the same thing.
Mine is different. I have two cables (each has 3 N/L/E). I know that one of them is for the switch while the other is for the consumer unit. I tried different combination:

Putting only the consumer cable in --> the light is always on. The switch does not work
Putting only the switch cable --> the light is not on.
Putting both of them in, 2 N from the two cables go to 2 N holes. Likewise, 2 L from the two cables go to 2 L holes. --> The light is on even when the light switch is not on. When I turn the light switch on, the light goes off and the main switch (of the room) switches off as well (meaning the combination is causing some conflict).

I tried different combinations of the third (changing the order of the two N and the two L) but none working.
Can someone please help?

This is a switch leg or that’s what we call it on this side of the pond.
How we would wire it here is to connect the hot or L of the consumer unit to one of the wires going to the switch then the line coming back from the switch is the switched hot L. The switched hot goes to the L the N from the consumer unit in the n and connect earths
I did not put colors in since you did not mention them and I believe there are 2 or 3 possible combinations based on when built.
The wire going to the switch with the consumer unit hot we would use our normal color wire for N or white so that line is always hot and the switched hot brown or whatever is hot when the switch is on but the neutral always being hot can’t be mixed up as a neutral then we put tape or mark it as a hot.


Main burner in NG fireplace goes out What could be the reason of main burner going out intermittently. The pilot stays on. The voltage of the thermopile is 638mv when burner is off. The thermostat is a manual heat only. When I short out the thermostat at the valve the burner lights every time, then after time the burner goes out.(sometimes will go out in one minute or last over a hour) It happens if the blower is on or off. I have changed thermopile same thing, thermostat same thing. Check thermostat wiring ok. This stove was converted from LP to NG 2 years a go and a new valve was installed. Thanks for your help

Make sure that any operating device and the thermostat are made to be used with a thermopile/powerpile system. The contacts of all devices are special for that type system. Thermopile systems produce around 3/4 volts so any added resistance reduces the voltage to operate the gas valve. Make sure that all connections are done with clean wire and are tight. When the system was converted did the person or contractor convert/replace the pilot, gas burners or gas orfices and the gas regulator. It may be a good idea to check these items or have an HVAC contractor check them.


regarding concrete basement floor and adding wall/supports to reduce sag I have a basement slab, and a triple 2x10 backbone supported by steel columns. I've got a little sag in one which combined with other issues above, results in less than desired sag in the second floor (maybe a half inch).

Focusing on this part of the puzzle, the beam isn't sagging all that much, but i can see where it's bearing on the steel column it's smushed a bit at the bearing.

the basement is unfinished but would like to slowly finish it here and there, the first part being partition walls. it makes sense to put walls up along the underside of this beam.

Finally, the question: putting up such partition walls under the beam, what do i need to know about jacking the beam to give load to the partition walls to reduce the sag of the main beam? I understand the steel columns are on thick footings, but what's the word on spreading some load on the rest of the floor?

Bonus question: would it make sense to "sister" the steel column, putting a support just next to it so it's still on the footing to effectively add bearing(remember the smush?)

thanks!

I would add a steel plate to the top of the column to spread the load on the 2 X 10 s.  Plate about 1/4 " thick or more , This will also compensate for the crush that has already happened. I have been able to find miscellaneous pieces of steel at a local weld shop at reasonable price. There should be some foundation under the concrete floor to support the steel column ; The floor itself can be very thin, I once found a 1 / 4 " thick spot in a basement floor concrete.  So you can't just put a new column anywhere.


Difference between Distribution board main switch and mains What is the difference between a distribution board/distribution box, main switch, and mains? Are they all the same or are they difference from each other?

Distribution box (aka distribution board, breaker panel, electric panel, breakerboard) is the the enclosure where the main power feed comes in and is distributed to individual circuits
Main switch is the master switch that shuts off all power, and is the first thing the power runs to that comes into the panel.
"Mains" (aka mains voltage) refers to main line-level voltage (generally 120V or 240V, depending on where you live) and is used to refer to things connected to the electrical system and thus subject to code. It's often used to distinguish from something that is "low voltage" 1 (eg, 12 or 24V circuits)

1 Note, technically this is called "extra-low voltage", and is anything <50V AC or <120V DC. "High voltage" is anything >1000V AC, and "low voltage" is everything in between, but really only linesmen that work for the power company call it that. In a house or commercial situation, you basically never see anything higher than 240V so we just use the terms "mains" or "low voltage".


What can I do about water coming in from underneath when it rains? I live in a newer home. when it rains really hard and  a lot water comes in and soaks my carpets.I can feel the walls wet. I don't have gutters or any leaks around window. I already had that checked. somebody said water statics. what do i do if it is ? I would love any help

I would try to identify the source of the water.

You don't have gutters. If rainwater runs off your roof and splashes onto the ground next to your walls I would consider installing guttering and leading the rainwater through pipework away from the house to a soakaway (large gravel filled pit).

If the surrounding ground slopes towards the house, I would consider installing something like a French-drain that intercepts ground water and directs it around the house to a point where the ground slopes away from the house. This is a big project and you need to be sure of what  is causing your problem before starting.

In both cases you probably need professional help or at least get someone experienced to come and look at the building.


What amount of wood defects is acceptable in a lumber delivery? I took a delivery ($200 delivery fee!) from 84 which included eighteen 2x6 studs. Of those, only two didn't have significant defects. About 14 have significant (1"+) wane on two sides. Four have long or multiple splits.  One was wet and covered in black mold.

I didn't even check for cupping, twist, bowing, hearts, etc, as I expect a lot of those defects. But these defects feel ridiculous.

Is this level of defects normal? Did they intentionally load all their worst lumber on the truck for me? Am I within my rights to ask them to take it back and give me better boards?

That is some sub-quality lumber and I'd be very upset as well. It's almost like they dumped their reject pile on you knowing that you might not bulk due to the large delivery fees involved and the trouble you would have to personally return it.

They need to either replace it or accept a return including the delivery fee. I don't know that you really need some document to point at to be able to definitively say that it is not acceptable as any reasonable person would look it and know that it's unacceptable quality.

If they won't address it then I would use what is usable, don't use want isn't usable, set it out for them to pick up, let them know, and if they don't credit it then call your credit card company or bank and refuse/back charge the payment for that portion of the bad lumber


Makita product lines comparison I have been looking at different Makita tools and I can see what seems to be two different product lines but I fail to find any information online that would suggest what is the actual differences between the models. For example there are XMT and DTM models of multitools and all I can see is that both have variable speed control dial (6, 000 to 20, 000 OPM) and that's it. The price ranges differ quite a lot while the DTMs are significantly cheaper. Can anyone shed some light and point to any actual differences between those model lines?

The Makita XMT series of tools is marketed toward tradespeople and professionals while the DMT is for the mass market.  Little outward differences but generally there are significant differences in durability and reliability.  You'll find DMT at big box stores and the like.  Usually you'll only find XMT at professional supply outlets.

If you are just going to be using it for typical homeowner duties, the DMT is your best value.  If you expect to use the tool to make a living, then consider XMT.


Is it a violation of NEC code to install a receptacle horizontally and 3/4" from face of a stud? A wall has been framed out to mount a touch screen computer monitor. Once the 1/4" drywall is installed, the monitor will be placed into this cavity and plugged into said receptacle.

Question

Does the receptacle shown in the pictures below meet NEC code? If not, whats is the proper way to install the receptacle in recessed stud framing?

Provided the mount and cables allow the monitor to be readily removed to gain access to the box, this should not be a Code issue -- the basic requirement is that all junction boxes be readily accessible (i.e. you shouldn't have to tear apart the building to find 'em).


Water Holding-Tank Apparatus Converting warm water to cool water coming from the main water line that dispenses warm water to a water tank I live in Tucson Arizona (in the Sonoran Desert) almost all year round where the temperature high ranges are 98°F up to 108°F from May to August. Our PVC pipe water mainline is buried 2ft underground from the main street to the house water-meter (the main water line is approximately 75 feet in length). During the high noon, the sun heats the underground water line pipe. Therefore the problem is that the tap water temperature comes out of the showerhead and bathroom faucet at a 105°F to a warm-cool 90°F! The question to the plumber or the engineer: Are there any devices that have been developed or marketed to convert warm water of 105°F to a warm-cool water temperature between 89°F - 77°F from an electric water-holding cooling tank that can produce approximately 22 gallons of warm-cool water. Which can be connected to a water demand line. So I can take approximately a 10-minute cool shower?

This may not be the cheapest solution, but it's still probably cheaper than or close to the price of a cistern plus all the extra plumbing to make it work. Other posters are correct, you don't want to store potable water (unless you want to treat and manage it yourself).
Go on LabX or Ebay and look for a "liquid chiller" or "recirculating chiller". You might be able to get similar functionality with an aquarium chiller, but you need at least several hundred watts of power. Expect to pay $500-2000.
Buy or make a liquid-liquid heat exchanger (can be made with a tube-in-tube design, countercurrent flow) to keep your potable water and your coolant loop separate. Your coolant loop needs antifreeze or antifouling agent, borax will often do the trick.
Do NOT try to do this with a minifridge. Not enough power. You could try to roll your own with a window AC unit. You can dismantle it and CAREFULLY bend the cold coil away from the main unit and dip in in a liquid bath, such as a cooler. Use a fountain pump to recirculate. You'll want to make some sort of confinement to keep the liquid from boiling off too fast.
You'll also likely still need some reservoir to "save up the cold".
If you want to go from ~100F-80F (-10 C) and you have a 8L/min shower, that's 80 degree-liters (aka kilocalories) a minute, roughly 5 KW, if you had to do it in real time.
On second thought, maybe the cistern isn't a bad idea after all. Also, if the water temp at the mains is significantly cooler, it might even be worthwhile digging up the water line and insulating it, if code allows for it, or just re-running it deeper (the latter will likely cost you several grand plus going back and forth with the town)


Is the unused hot water line cooling all the other hot water lines? We are having an addition done, and they just ran the hot and cold water lines to the addition. The lines are not used yet, so the water in the hot water line is cold because hot water never moves through it.

Whenever we run hot water anywhere else in the house it is hot at first and then only lukewarm.

Here's a picture showing where they connected the new PEX line to our existing copper hot water line. When we don't run the water for a while that copper T connection is warm. As soon as we turn on a hot water tap the copper becomes very cold there - so it must be mixing in the cold water from the new PEX line.

What could be going on? Is it just that there is cold water in the unused line that is mixing with the hot water and making it cool? Even after running hot water for 20 minutes that connection is really cold. Or could there be a hot/cold crossover in the addition?

Update:  I found a hot cold crossover at the shower mixing valve in the addition.

Posting suggested test as an answer since the follow up identified it as a crossover.

When testing hot water flow and a crossover is suspected, an easy test is to turn off the water flow from the hot side at thetank to remove hot availability. When the hot tap is opened downstream, there should be no pressure, so very little water will come out.  If pressure seems normal or near normal such that water consistently flows without ceasing, it can only be a crossover OR a bad shutoff valve *(but if it was a bad shutoff valve, the water would be hot for a good while if provided from a tank).

At this point, its a matter of following the various faucets or mixing valves to verify their settings. These valves (mixing vales) can go bad, or be installed wrong, so it's usually worth it to turn off the cold supply at each suspect location until flow stops.

Congratulations on solving the issues.


Wiring single pole switch I have an outside switch to control a light in the garage. The white wires are connected in the box and there is one black and one red wire. How do I connect them to a single pole switch.

If this is the way you found it and you're sure there used to be a switch there, connect the black wire and the red wire to the two screw terminals on a single pole toggle switch.
If you're not sure, then remove the wire nut from the white wire and test for 120 Volts between the black wire and the white wires with a multi meter. Also check for voltage between the red wire and the white (there should be none). Trace the red wire to the garage light to verify it's for the light.
Turn the breaker on only when checking for voltages and leave it off when doing any work or mounting the switch into the box.


Furnace getting power, but heat/AC not kicking on. LED on board is not lighting up. Thinking the transformer is gone So far I've been successful in maintaining and repairing my own HVAC system in my house. First week we bought the house (we knew going into the purchase) I replaced the main board. It's been golden for three years until now.

Thermostat makes a call for heat, nothing happens and then it makes a call for emergency heat and nothing happens. The furnace is getting power. Circuit isn't tripped, getting power at the outlet attached to the furnace (for the condensation pump), and there is an electrical hum when I turn the power on.

I opened up the furnace and the LED on the board is 100% off. Per the key on the board an off LED means that either the board is dead or there is no power getting to the board. My first inclination was to check the transformer, which is a 120v to 25v transformer.

The leads to the primary are right at 120v AC, to be expected. The primary is reading 97v AC when the leads are plugged in and the power is on. Turning off power and removing the leads to primary I get 24.4 ohms. With power on, and leads removed, the secondary side is also reading 120v AC. Leads off, power off, I get an 0.L on the secondary, when testing with my ohmmeter.

So I'm pretty sure the transformer is gone. I've ordered the part, but since it will take a week to get here I thought I'd ask and see if anyone had any idea. I also wasn't sure if the 120v on the secondary side is cause for concern. Will I need to replace the board as well?

This is a Trane XE90. It was working just fine up until yesterday morning.

Follow-up and answer:

Replacing the transformer resolved the issue of the board not getting power. Once the transformer was replaced I swapped in a new fuse and it started up. On a hunch I plugged in the old transformer again and fuse blew. So the transformer was definitely a problem.

For anyone with a Trace XE90 looking to replace the transformer powering the control board: you will need to mount the transformer in a new location as the transformer's form factor is different from what original shipped in the furnace, still the same product but a new form factor.

This did not completely resolve my problem however, as now I am blowing a fuse whenever I make a call for heat. Next step is to pull everything involved in heat from the board and add one back at a time until the fuse blows.


Over voltage protection to prevent appliances from burning I have recently installed a solar energy system at my home, I am currently looking for a protection device that could protect my inverter and other appliances from burning if an over voltage (let's say 440 V) spike occurs. And also when neutral becomes live in the case of a fault from the utility company.

A whole house surge protector installed at the panel will take care of surges. There is no real way for a neutral to become a line from the utility . neutral is bonded to ground at the service panel.


Is it normal for pressure-treated lumber to warp? I recently bought some pressure treated yellow pine for building some window boxes. After building them, I sealed them with a product that would protect the wood for 3-4 years, according to the can. After building them, they sat outside under a covered porch for about a week until I installed and filled them. When I did, I noticed that the boards are pulling the screws out of the wood. The boards were straight when I bought them but have now begun to curve. Should I have purchased a different type of wood? What could be causing this? The damage is so bad, the boxes may not last the season.

Treated wood doesn't always twist/warp/shrink, but in my experience more often than not it will to some degree. For something small like window planter boxes etc. I would use non-treated lumber and stain or paint with a quality exterior grade product. Obviously if the project is a deck or similar structure subjected to the inevitable wrath of Mother Nature then you should always use PT. Or as Kris suggested you could elevate and stack PT lumber to dry under controlled circumstances to mitigate warping.


Sealing inside fireplace I gave an old home and the fireplace on the outside shows cracks and shifted brick. I tried to use the fireplace and it was fine but eventually smokes started coming in the house. I know there are cracks but I'm looking for an inexpensive way to seal cracks on the inside so I can use the fireplace as I can't afford to fix it properly. Yes, the vent is open - I checked. I'm worried about using a spray sealant and actually really messing up my fireplace. Any suggestions?

Cracks shouldnt create backdraft. The vent may be open but my flues always seem to get clogged. Birds/squirrels love to make nests in them.

Best bet is hire a sweeper. Or at least go up on the roof and check its clear.


How can I support drywall with a steel post on an outside corner? I have a steel support post right on the corner of a wall, which protrudes on one wall about 1/4". I am getting ready to look at drywall and wondering is there any other option than to build around this post?

In light of the new and important information mentioned in the comment below,  your best move is to fur out the entire wall just enough to clear the post. You may then want to follow the advice I gave originally.

Original answer:

You can work with that and avoid any sort of bumpout. Just cut a triangular "stud" as large as possible that fits in the available space. Set your circular or table saw to 45 degrees and cut a few sample blocks. Use a straightedge across each wall plane to see what you have room for. You could even hang drywall on one face and then install the stud with screws through the drywall before you add construction adhesive to all contact points.

Ideally you anchor it top and bottom, and even a gob of construction adhesive against the post flanges will do. Even better if you can glue to the drywall and the post itself. As a system it'll be rock solid. Let the adhesive set up for a day before nailing on your corner bead.

If you're wrapping that beam with drywall, install a strip of half inch plywood or OSB under the beam, between the flanges at each end, to get the drywall below the flange and bolt heads.


Which kind of locks should be installed on external wooden glass panel doors? When you have an external glass panel door it may be simple for a criminal to break a pane of glass to access the handle and lock inside.

What types of locks are appropriate to install on a door of this type? I think a deadbolt of some type should always be installed, but I've seen what I think are "rim locks" installed some places which I don't think are secure.

An ordinary door lock. Double cylinder deadbolts, which require a key from either side, are in violation of the fire code many places. It isn't a good risk trade off even if they are legal, especially considering you could change to a solid door in areas at a higher risk for crime.

Apparently, they do make key capture deadbolts which prevent removing the from the inside of a locked door. When you're away from home it will prevent burglars which are too stupid or lazy to smash a window instead.


pressure tank in unheated cabin Can I set up the pressure tank set up in an unheated cabin ? I'm ok draining it when not in use for a month or two, but I don't have an air compressor - the drain would be whats on the tank tee and that's it.

Referencing:

Can I operate a well pump with no pressure tank by using the breaker as a switch?

Thanks.

Unless you have a special type of modulating pump  you will need a pressure tank. In most cases the pressure tank is used to stop the pump from short cycling. If you forgo a pressure tank the pump turn on and off continuously greatly reducing the life expectancy of the pump. Draining it would be recommended if you're not using it and away. If the place is cold you can also use RV Plumbing antifreeze to ensure no residual water freezes. Flush it out when ready to use.

Side note,
After reading your other post.
Yes you can operate the pump from the breaker with just a pipe connected to nothing. Be careful to not dead head the pump, meaning don't run it with a valve closed. Without a pressure switch to turn it off at high pressure you can hurt the pump or burst a pipe (unlikely but possible)


Compatibility of heat lamps and bulbs I am wondering which heat lamps work with what bulbs. In particular

If I have a heat lamp with a rated wattage of x, can I use it with a
heat lamp bulb with a rated wattage significantly less than x (and
if so, will it waste a lot of energy or stress the bulb a lot)?
If I have a heat lamp with a rated wattage of x, can I use it with a heat lamp bulb with a rated wattage significantly greater
than x (and if so, will it waste a lot of energy or stress the bulb a lot)?
If I have a "normal" lamp or wall fixture with a rated wattage of x, can I use it with a heat lamp bulb with a rated wattage of x (and
what would be the side effects)?
If I have a "ceramic heat emitter" like this, can I use it in a heat lamp? A normal lamp? What's the difference between these
ceramic ones and more "normal" ones like this?

1 and 2, Lower is always OK, higher is not, unless the FIXTURE it is going into is rated for the higher wattage. it's the fixture that matters, they are rated for wattage based on the heat involved and the way the fixture can deal with that heat. EFFICACY of a lower wattage lamp is another issue, based on what you are trying to accomplish with it. "Wasting" energy is a function of the task vs the output of the device. Any energy above what you need becomes waste, but determining what you actually NEED is a scinece in and of itself.

Probably not. Again, FIXTURES are rated for a maximum wattage, based on incandescent lamps because those are typical. So if a fixture is rated for 100W maximum, it will not really matter if it is a 100W lamp or heat lamp, unless the heat lamp PROJECTS the heat to a sensitive area, like a lamp shade. Fixutre are also going to be based on the base of the lamp being up or down, so if a fixture is designed for base down, like on a table lamp, you probably cannot use that fixture for a heat lamp over food where the base of the bulb will be pointing up.

Ceramic heat fixtures give off radiant heat, heat lamps usually are for infra-red heat. Infrared penetrates deeper into soft tissue, like skin or food, but has less of an effect in heating the air around it. Radiant heat is basically exactly the opposite; heating the AIR, but not penetrating into soft tissue as much.


Benefits of gfci and Afci redundancy in circuit I have read numerous times that having multiple GFCI/AFCI on the same circuit is a complete waste of money and really you just need the first outlet. But I have not seen any studies of redundancy of protection types in a circuit.
So my question is do false negatives not exist among GFCI/AFCI which might vary from GFCI/AFCI outlet to GFCI/AFCI outlet?
For instance increasing the number of outlets would decrease the possibility of a false negative in the complete circuit.
OR
Or do GFCI/AFCI not have false negatives in the sense I’m thinking but instead all only trip under the exact same thresholds/conditions which does not tend to vary from outlet to outlet through the position of upstream and downstream in the circuit?

Nuisance tripping or false tripping is a real thing in both devices for different reasons. nuisance tripping of GFCI’s is well documented and there are also issues with AFCI’s where they can’t tell it’s a dimmer or speed control and trip.
The reason you don’t see studies on redundant devices is because they affect each other and some devices self test will trip other devices and getting them all reset can be impossible.
I once was called to a home the owner tried to do exactly what you mention after hours of trying to rewire and get them to reset he called me. I told him he could have each receptacle as a line fed and not use the load but still may have some false tripping and finding the tripped receptacle would be easier but there would be no redundancy.
At that point with each point protected individually protected there would be more chance of failure because Electronic devices (both AFCI & GFCI) do fail.
So in his case he went back to 1 per circuit.
This is the reason you won’t find studies on redundant devices and although I have not read the mfg instructions lately they used to identify this in there documentation that came with the device.


Why would an electric baseboard heater burn the wire connector off the black wires? I replaced an old 96 inch electric baseboard heater. It was hooked up right and ran for about a month. It then started to smell, and the 2 black wires had melted the cap right off. It never tripped the breaker and was still running. I redid the 2 black wires but around the wires it does have a light smell and it ticks like a clock when running. Is this normal or could this new heater be no good?

The wire nut burned because the connection was not sound. May have been the nut was loose or the wires not paired/lined up cleanly and properly. Either way, this creates a very high resistance connection that can create a LOT of heat under load, and an 8' heater is a pretty good load, typically 250 watts per foot. This resistance is not seen as any extra amperage by the circuit so the breaker does not know anything is wrong.

This problem was not the fault of the heater, it was the poor connection.

The ticking can be typical with baseboard heaters. It's the metal expanding and contracting.


LED Flat panel wiring — Type NM/Romex or Lamp Cord I purchased several LED flat panel fixtures that came without wiring instructions.

I’m using suspension cable kits to hang the lamps from an open basement ceiling with fiberglass insulation and TJI-type joists.

The lamps have Junction Boxes (pictured) with what look like type NM (romex) inputs — to the LED driver — and tiny, maybe 18-20 gauge lines to the LEDs themselves.

The fixtures draw a rated 40 watts.  I have a junction box in the ceiling currently with a bare bulb fixture.

Is it necessary or required by NEC to use  type NM-B/Romex to wire these fixtures?  It doesn’t seem very useful to use solid NM rather than stranded lamp cord, since I’ve seen simple lamp cord  provide power safely to 150-watt floor lamp bulbs all my life.

I gather that you're hanging the lights from cables or chains, and as such, it's possible for them to move or swing.  As such, you must use cordage for the connection from light to fixed ceiling box.

Cordage is - well, it's the type of electrical wiring you've been handling all your life.  Almost every appliance has a cord.  It's designed to flex.  It also costs a little more. It's not allowed as permanent wiring, except for a certain few exceptions.

Use of cordage to luminaires in open spaces is explicitly allowed by NEC 400.7 (now 400.10), and I make full use of it.  Further, nothing says you can't make them cord-and-plug-connected. They make cover plates that take receptacles, for 4" (across the corners) octagon boxes.

Don't let price tempt you into using a 2-prong cord.  The cable/chain hangers are NOT grounds. For 3-prong cords-with-plug, my favorite is Target's $5 8' extension cord, lop off the socket end and you're all set. It's stiff, though; McMaster-Carr has more flexible ones cheap, but the shipping!  If you're hardwiring both ends, your local electrical supply will have a variety of cordage, use at least 16 AWG.

However, cordage is not allowed above a drop ceiling or in any kind of plenum space: NEC 400.7 (now 400.12).  In that case you need to use one of the Chapter 3 wiring methods, typically a flexible metal conduit or prefabricated wire whip.

Lastly, ballast disconnects. Code requires any hardwired luminaire to connect via disconnect plugs. LEDs might be exempt because they're not technically fluorescents.  However, the principle is the same: the power supply/ballast is likely to fail at some point, and you need a way to de-energize with certainty.  Since you have to make a connection betweeen house wiring and driver anyway, make it through one of these.   These cost less than $1 each.


LED Light fitting has started making clicking sounds after power outage The other day we had a power outage and apparently surge that was enough to blow out the PSU on my computer. A day or two later I've noticed the ceiling light in my office is now clicking, regularly (around once a second at an estimate.).

It only makes this sound when it's powered on, stops immediately on powering off, but doesn't always make it even when powered on.

I've included a video of it, and I'm wondering what is causing it, is it dangerous and am I likely to be able to replace the broken part or will I have to replace the entire lamp?

The clicking starts around 10 seconds in, stops momentarily and starts again:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ65tr330HA&feature=youtu.be

I think it's the motion sensor, which this light is equipped with.

The motion sensor is probably not bespoke for this light, and is a commodity module.  The module supplier doesn't know if it will be controlling 0.05 amps or 5, so it uses a nice burly mechanical relay that is probably overkill for this light.  That's what you are hearing.

I also suspect the motion sensor may be designed for low voltage, which makes current proportionately larger (quite much larger for 12V). Current decides the relay size.


Is this an ok construction for a bathroom sink drain? I have a bathroom sink that is constantly clogged or running slow. I’ve cleaned out the P trap, removed the pop up drain stopper and it still ran slow. I bought a DIY snake and can’t get it past these 3 turns to see where the clog is. Any advice here? I’m wondering...
1. Is this set up correctly?
2. Any ideas on how I can set it up better?
3. Any ideas how to unclog this myself?

As Kris said there are a lot of 90's , I fully agree with his comment, I would give an example from the electrical code that only 360 degrees of turns are allowed before the next junction box because of the resistance to pulling the wire increasing with each 90, the same thing happens with water pipes and a sharp 90 is impossible to get by more than 2 in many cases if long sweeps are used it may be possible but that's why you can't get the snake through.


Exhaust fan leaking from elbow joint connected to the ceiling I have a metal elbow joint that is leaking. It is connected to an exhaust fan in the bathroom and runs to the roof. What can I wrap the elbow with to stop the leak?

Leaking air, or leaking water?

If leaking air, either replace it if it's degraded, or try duct joint sealant (which stands a somewhat better chance of lasting than duct tape.)

"Leaking" water - a bathroom exhaust vent needs to be heavily insulated all along its length, and should preferably run straight up, then turn and slope gently to the outside, so that water which condenses out of the air can run outside, rather than collecting in the vent and leaking out. Correcting one that's been "leaking" a while may require replacing any corroded sections of vent, improving the routing to more closely match the ideal mentioned above, and wrapping it in insulation. If the joints have been made "the wrong way" (male end inward) you may have to completely re-fit the vent pipe.


What's the right name of the things that mount a frameless mirror to the wall through the mirror? I feel silly asking this question but I don't know the term for the little things that hold a frameless mirror to the wall through holes in the mirror. They're often little plastic stars or metal washers.

I'm asking because I want to search for nice looking ones online, instead of the crappy plastic ones that are so easy to find at hardware stores.

(And if anyone happens to know of a good site to find some iron rustic looking ones - our bathroom has lighting by Hubbardton Forge - I'd appreciate any links as well.)

UPDATE: just a bit of clarification - I'm asking about the actual decorative parts that cover up the screw that secures the mirror. In my particular case the mirror is very large and was glued to the wall by my contractor. The mirror has four holes in it for additional security I guess, and he put in a kind of ugly screw/washer combo.

Because the mirror is glued to the wall there's no space behind it for a standoff, and because the holes are in the mirror, clips are not what I need. I guess what I'm looking for is just the "top" part of a standoff - the nice looking bolt head and washer part.

I've seen the word "rosette" used online but it almost always refers to an ugly plastic star that you see in cheap motels. Looking for something much nicer, a keyword or phrase I can plug into Google.

What you're looking for is called a "stand-off". From mirrorsupports.net:

  For simple, standoffs, without the need to drill holes in the mirror, choose from the following framepegs or edgegrips. For large heavy mirrors and large offsets - drill holes in the mirror and use our standoff sytems.


What is this tiny metal door? I bought and moved into a house six weeks ago. There was some semi-built-in furniture which came with the house, but it was gross, so I had it removed recently... Which leads me to this. There's an iron door which opens to the interior of the cinder block wall. No obvious purpose, no visible pipes or valves or anything. What might this be?

Fireplace ash cleanout.

In the back center of the fireplace, there will be an ash drop opening.

The popularity of these date to when the fireplace was used 24 hours a day.   You could safely drop ashes with hot coals, and later remove the cold ash.


How do I safely place an extension ladder near windows so I can clean my gutters? I am trying to get an extension ladder in position so I can finally clean these gutters. I have a stabilizer, but it's narrower than the span of 2 windows, and I'm very uncomfortable putting the ladder up this high without it. I'm having a real whale of a time getting the ladder into position. I'm thinking that somehow I need to get the stabilizer legs above the windows, but still beneath the gutter line. I'm hoping that someone has tips or tricks for getting this ladder into place. I know the wood shingles on the front need replaced-- that's next.

I contemplated putting the stabilizer beneath the windows, ie not on the highest rung, but I wasn't sure if this was safe or not.

It's a 28' Werner fiberglass extension ladder, and Werner stabilizer.

Any suggestions?

Leaning the ladder against the gutter

If the gutters are safe to lean on, and if there are no potential problems with denting them, then that is the way to do it.

The ladder will be stable and you will be in a better position for cleaning the gutters than if you were on a ladder leaning on the walls.

Some gutters are actually strong enough that you can lean a ladder against them without any issues; not even a risk of aesthetic dents. I talked to a guy who hand crafted and installed gutters and he said that for some buildings they install extra strong gutters because they know that ladders will be leaned against them or they know that kids will be hanging in them.

Don't lean the stabilizer on the side of the gutter since that involves a risk of the stabilizer arms suddenly slipping below or above the gutter. Instead, do not use the stabilizer or if using the stabilizer place it above the gutter so that the ladder itself is leaning on the gutter.

Leaning a two arm stabiliser against the window area, not a good idea in your case

The stabilizers that I know of all have two "arms". Even if you place the ladder correctly and the spacing between the arms will rest against the framing, then that is not really good enough in my opinion. There is a risk that something gives in and the top of the ladder moves a bit to the side, in which case one of the arms will suddenly lean against the glass.

Leaning a stabilizer against the roof

From googling it seems that many ladder stabilizers are built to be used like that as well.

Avoiding using a ladder

This is what I would do if I had a house like that. You can get remote controlled gutter cleaning robots, eg iRobot Looj or you can get accessories for a power washer that lets you clean the gutters while standing on the ground eg Gutter Ball.


Replacing 12V halogen spotlights with MR16 dimmable LEDs in my lounge I am trying to replace 12V MR16 halogen spotlights in the ceiling with dimmable MR16 LEDs. The existing halogens do not have a dimmer driver, and each has its own transformer (I'm 90% sure of this). I have a few questions:

Will the MR16 LEDs work just plugging it into the existing transformers?
What sort of a dimmer driver would I need to get to dim the LEDs?

I hope I've explained the scenario sufficiently.

You would be better off getting a 12V DC driver/power supply, and then using a DC 12V PWM dimmer between the power supply and LEDs.

The obvious thing to do is use a 120VAC dimmer driving the 120V->12V power supply. To begin with, AC dimmers use one of several rather awkward schemes. But even more is "lost in translation" in any 120V-12V power supply.  You are simply better off making 12VDC, and then dimming that.


Are these junction boxes suitable for domestic lighting? I’m putting together some junction boxes for domestic lighting using RS own brand DIN terminals in a suitable enclosure (home automation later would favour grouping the wiring into a limited number of JBs with space to accept relays later).

One thing that came to mind was to do with these:

https://famaga.ch/catalog/rs-pro/korpusy-stojki-shkafy

They are the special DIN terminals that have a screw operated clamp to the DIN rail which claims to provide electrical continuity.

How might I decide if these would provide suitable and reliable continuity for the circuit CPC on say a circuit protected by a C10 RCBO? Or do you reckon they are just fine?

Points I’ve considered:

Reliability – these clamp to a plated steel rail – so providing the plating holds and the rail does not corrode, then OK
Clamping action seems positive.

Contact resistance: haven’t attempted to measure yet, but I suspect it would be off the bottom of the range of my Megger.

Fault current – worst case scenario: hundreds of amps but no more than 1kA for a very short time.

There is a little leeway in that the circuit is RCD protected, but I feel it would be bad practice to factor that in as a key design consideration.

What do you folk think of such devices?

Many thanks,

The link does not show any device.
Ground connection via clamping to the DIN rail is industry standard since many decades, but the rail and clamp ratings must be considered.
DIN rail corrosion is only a problem in aggressive environments like salt water, chemical industry etc., if the box has a low IP code. The plated rails normally do not corrode even after half a century. Furthermore, a closed junction box does have a slightly higher temperature thus lowering the possibility for corrosion.
There are special types of DIN rails made of aluminum or copper to ensure low resistance. In some countries a normal steel DIN rail must not be used for the PEN, but can be used as pure PE.


Materials for building inexpensive light-weight large planter? I've wanted to build a few large planters for a while now, and I've considered using concrete, wood, etc. I don't know what other cheap material to use.

Initially, I wanted to make them out of pre-mixed concrete, but realized that a square 24" concrete planter would just be too much weight for my rooftop. Each paver would be minimum 60-lbs each, so that's 300 pounds for one planter. Four planters would easily be over 1,000 pounds.

I then considered using wood, but untreated wood would rot and treated wood would poison the plant. So that's also out of the question.

So my question: for someone like myself with very extremely limited DIY skills and tools, how do you recommend I build a lightweight large planter?

I would like to try and build it because the cheapest 24" x 24" plastic planter is $35, and they're very ugly.

Animal watering troughs make for low cost and easily implemented "instant" planters that are (or start out) light weight for the strength they provide. You can cut down on the weight of the soil by putting in a layer of crumpled soda cans or plastic water bottles in the bottom. I like the looks of the plain galvanized metal ones, but you can paint them if you don't, or there are plastic versions that come in colors.


can I fill a water tank from bottom? I'm about to place a water storing tank at ground level and connect the water feeder pipe at the bottom of the tank. Would water fill normally as the top filling? Would atmospheric pressure + water mass pressure cause water feed pipe to stop following water?

Yes you can. Feeding the tank from above will exert the constant maximum head on the pump until the tank is full. Feeding from bottom leads to uniform increase of head from zero to maximum head. Also, feeding from the bottom will cut the energy consumption and time by half if the same capacity pump is used (I think). You can prevent the backflow by putting a NRV in line.


How do I release a bit from a jammed keyless drill chuck? I have a Bosch PSB 650 RE hammer drill, with a keyless chuck:

The chuck mechanism involves a button on top which, when pressed, allows the chuck to be tightened or released, rather than just rotating with the bit.
The other day I did some drilling with an 8mm masonry bit (in hammer mode); and after drilling - the chuck would not get release. I applied as much torque as my hand could stand, until it was quite sore from the friction against the plastic.
My question: How do I release the bit from the drill?
I'm hesitant to try pliers or a vise grip, worried I might just file down the plastic and make a bad situation worse.
Notes:

The chuck was not overtightened - just the usual tightness. So this related question is not quite my situation.
I'd rather save the drill bit than break it; and would also not want to damage the chuck jaws.

I recently had the same issue and tried numerous solutions with no luck. In the end I purchased a strap wrench: This kind of wrench grips the object via a strap or a chain:

You basically put the strap around the chuck, tighten the strap and then use the wrench handle as a lever to gain more torque while trying to undo chuck. This worked extremely well.
I simply wouldn't bother with any other solution in the future.


What material was used for the bedding of my patio? I am not sure if the sand was washed away by the water that is going under the patio in that corner or the bedding material is simply missing here. The paver below is from the left circled area in the second photo. That corner is actually raised a little bit which is the opposite that should happen if the sand was washed away from under the paver. So ...what material was used for bedding here? Can I say that the bedding is missing?

It's hard to tell from the picture but it may be -1/4" crushed gravel that was used as bedding. We used that quite often in place of a mortar type sand because it didn't compress as much but still allowed easy grading and workability.


Can I use an old chimney as a electrical chase TLDR:
Are there any code/cost reasons we couldn't run BX/romex to our attic through an old disconnected chimney?

Long Question:
I will be closing on a house shortly and there is a hole in the attic floor where the house's original chimney used to run (the chimney has been removed down to the attic floor). The attic is finished but run-down and we plan to eventually renovate it; but there is limited electrical. Before we move all of our furniture in we were going to have a contractor refinish the floors and replace any soft spots or holes, but this seems like a perfect chase for electrical and I was considering bringing in an electrician to run an extra circuit to the attic before we cover it up. Would there be a code problem running through an old chimney like this? Or alternatively would there be another reason this would be worse than trying to fish a cable up past two stories of nice old lath and plaster walls?

It isn't a chimney if it is disconnected.   Yes.
As for what you need to support the cables.   This is really on the whim of a local inspector.   As mentioned in comments I have never had an issue dropping NM straight down plumbing walls in the interior of a house.   I made right before the drop and right after the drop very secure.


different sizes for joists on a deck I am building a deck.  One section of the deck will come out from the house 4 feet furhter than the rest of the deck.  This pushes my joist spans to the next larger size.  This part of the deck is supported from a beam a little further out, and the rest of the deck is supported from a different beam.  Can I (and is it a good idea) to use 2x12 joists for the longer joists, and 2x10 joists for the shorter ones.  I can raise the beam the 2x10s sit on by 2 inches so that the top of the joists are at the same level.

Or I can just buy all 2x12 joists for the whole thing.

It is ok to use all 2x12's of course, and ok to use 2x10 joists on a 2x12 band.

Other ideas ...

1) use lower grade 2x12s in place of the 2x10s

2) use all 2x10s placing them 16" on center for the short spans and 12"oc for the long spans

3) look into cantilevering the joists on the long span, which may allow using 2x10s @ 16"oc (instead of uncantilevered 2x12 @ 16"oc).


How to determine how many gallons of oil your oval tank holds? I'm not sure if my tank holds 250, 275, or 300 gallons.  Is there a way to determine the size?

The tank is oval shape and 60" X 40" X 27".

Your tank is in fact not oval, but stadium in profile. (Yes, that's where the sports facilities got their name.)

In the case of a tank measuring 60" × 40" × 27", your volume is (nominally) that of a box measuring 60 × (40-27) × 27 plus a cylinder of diameter 27 (radius 13.5) and length 60.

60 × 13 × 27 = 21,060 cubic inches (91.17 gallons)

π × 13.52 × 60 = 34,353 cubic inches (148.71 gallons)

Add those together and you get 239.88 gallons. 240 gallons is a reasonably common size for a residential oil tank.


Should I reconfigure my shared neutral breakers to have tied handles I have several shared neutral circuits in my house (built in CT approx 1980) that do not have ties between the breakers to ensure that both are turned off together.  I'm not 100% positive that they are all adjacent (it would take some time to determine exactly which circuits are set up this way).
I assume this was to code when it was built and inspected, but I understand current code requires tieing  the breakers together.

My question is whether I should go to the effort and/or expense to retrofit tied breakers.

If... you ever decide to replace an outlet, and you turn off the breaker that controls that outlet, and you remove the white & black wires from that outlet... but the other paired breaker is not turned off, and whatever that breaker powers is drawing power... then the white wire in your hand is going to be live, and it will flat plumb shock you. Even with your breaker turned off.

If anyone else for any reason replaces an outlet and "does everything right" by turning off the breaker first, then they will get the blazes shocked out of them by that white neutral wire. That "anyone else" may be your best friend, or may be the next owner of the house who's got a pacemaker to keep their heart going. Your complacency here could result in someone's death.

It's not like anyone's suggesting a project costing many thousands of dollars or requiring months of work. A two-pole breaker costs about $10US and takes about five minutes to replace. If you need to shuffle all the wires around that breaker box, the whole job may take you two hours.

It's worth doing.


How do I restore the original finish of a reglazed plastic tub? I bought a house a few years back. The previous owner had reglazed the plastic tub and wall unit and the glazed paint is starting to peel and looks pretty bad.

How do I remove the glazed paint to restore the original plastic?

I seriously doubt you will be able to return the original finish. The glaze you refer to was probably not applied properly or was cheap plastic paint.  In order to refinish a fiberglass tub unit, it will have to be stripped, sanded and properly sprayed out with a multi-stage epoxy refinishing product. this is a very difficult job and not one that comes out well when done by an inexperienced installer. The average cost in this area to do what you want is around $500 for a good refinish job. A half decent new tub and surround is about the same price without install costs. I have used a lot of Kohler 4 piece units, and been very satisfied.


How often should alkaline batteries be checked when they are in a device? I have the problem of leaving alkaline batteries in various devices, and have lost some I could not clean with vinegar.  If I don't use the device, I take the batteries out.  But a lot of devices are used frequently.  To avoid leakages, how often should the batteries be checked, and how should they be checked?

You don't need to check devices used frequently

Because you will soon notice that the device has gone inoperative, and will simply change the batteries at that point.  What gets 'ya is devices you rarely use.

One option is to use rechargeable batteries in those rarely used devices, which is to say NiCd or NiMH batteries. They will still discharge, however they won't be damaged by doing so.  In fact,  NiCds and NiMH's normally self-discharge over time, so if left in a drawer for a year, they will be fully discharged within 90 days and spend 275 days in a fully discharged state, without taking any damage.

Obviously after 90 days the device will not be usable and you'll have to take the batteries out and charge them; but you use them rarely anyway.

If you need to have your rarely-used devices "ready and good to go", then my advice is to use primary cells (non-rechargeable), and change batteries annually.  Don't throw out the old batteries; just demote them to frequently used appliances.


What do I need to replace after water damage during construction of a new home? While setting our new T style modular ranch style home we had a large amount of rain come before they had the sections set and now have water laying in some sections of drywall in almost every room. I think the builder is going to dry as much as possible but I'm concerned about future problems with the drywall. I guess my question is how much water on drywall is acceptable before needing replaced. Most of the wet areas are the internal walls on every room ceiling corners. I can press my fingernail in the wet spots and it is pretty mushy. A few of the light switch boxes are wet underneath too from water following the wires. Some areas I know has insulation that is definitely getting replaced but the visible slightly wet areas I'm not sure what I should try to make them do. The builder says they want us 100% satisfied so trying to decide whether to have them replace all drywall that is wet before we go any further.

I'd drive to get anything that was wet replaced. For 100% sure get anything that felt "mushy" replaced. Any wet insulation needs to be replaced too. Any wood that is wet should be allowed to dry up before covering it back over.


Can a hot tub be placed over composite decking? I am building a deck for a hot tub and I want to use composite decking.   Composite decking has many advantages as far as I see it.  I won't have to paint it and it's water resistant.  I have used it for other decks but I have never placed a load on it. I currently have joists at 16" on center. Would 12 inch on center be preferable in this case?
Can a hot tub be placed on composite decking?

99%* of all composite decking would not only hold a hot tub just fine, it would be preferred over wood.   It is preferred because it will not fail long term due to water damage or termites and cause a collapse or tilt.
As for weight bearing I am not sure there is any calculators out there for composite, however when I have gotten architects involved they basically treat it as "better than PT pine".
The two biggest things to think about when adding a hot tub to a deck is:

Joist spacing which you have already thought about.   Yes 12" is preferred for heavy load.   Adding a 3 joists may be all you need for a hot tub - if you had joistx3 8" apart on each side and dead middle, well that's pretty good against deflection.

If planned well you would be trying to place the hot tub above a load point (or multiple).   This isn't viable for all decks - smaller decks may only have load points at the perimeter but that also means on smaller decks you should be able to install hot tub on perimeter.   Obviously installing something super heavy in the middle of a deck is dumb and will lead to sagging.   For what its worth I have seen houses sag after installing 1500 pound safes in the wrong spot (closet in middle of joist span).

"*" the asterisk for the 1% is because I have seen and replaced hollow plastic decking - just in case someone confuses that for composite.


"nuclear option" for mold growth on ceramics and other tiles? I have to clean a long-neglected area that has mold growing on tiled walls and floor. Soap and a good brush is called for, but I'd like to "fortify my assault" with household chemicals.

Is there any way that I might spray either a dilute bleach solution, or a dilute ammonia solution (never mix them!) to either first to make scrubbing faster/easier, or to post-treat to remove organics to slow down regrowth?

Rather than talk about this specific mold, I'm more curious about a general practice here, using household products beyond soap and water to make scrubbing easier (I'm currently nursing some tendonitis) and/or to remove traces of "mold food" so it won't grow back as quickly.

I live in a humid subtropical area, mold is everywhere, it's a constant battle.

Anytime I get any mold growing in a very humid area, like areas around a shower I spray the mold growth with a strong water/bleach mixture (about 4 to 1) water to bleach. let it sit and the mold goes away. If it is a heavy growth you may need to spray it twice. And yes, wear protective clothing and a respirator.


What alternatives are there to a gas boiler for private house? I am looking for gas boiler alternatives for private house. At this moment I have found solid fuel boiler as replacement of gas one. Could someone suggest any alternative to gas technology or other (better) implementation of this one?

ADDED:

By the way I have found:

Thermia's heat pumps

Fuel Sources
Coal

Wood

Propane

Natural Gas

Oil

Electricity

Biomass Pellets

Sun

Earth

Nuclear Fission

Heat Transferers
Gas

Liquid

Heating Systems
Furnace

Boiler

Heat pump

Electric heater

Wood stove

Fire place

pellet stove

Tauntaun


rotary washing line rusted into sleeve The post of my rotary washing line has rusted into its sleeve in the ground and I do not have the strength or any powerful equipment to remove it. This happened over a period of a few winter months - does anyone have lightweight solutions that might do the trick? Would vinegar or oil help if I can pour them into the the tiny gap between the post and the sleeve? Thank you.

You actually have two problems, starting with how to get the post out of the sleeve now.

The first thing to try is some force, and the easiest form of force here would be a hammer. Circle the post, whacking it right above where it enters the sleeve (the harder the better, although use your judgement on avoiding damaging the post). Hopefully that will shear the rust and let you remove the post. Tapping down on the top of the post could also help (although it might also set it even harder in the sleeve).

Another possibility would be a strap wrench, which would let you twist hard on the round pole. You can find them for $5-$10 at discount hardware stores.

Vinegar wouldn't help, but a penetrating oil such as WD-40 might. However, you might need to use a lot and you don't want to create a teenie Superfund site in your back yard.

Your second problem is how to prevent this in the future. The obvious solution: don't leave the washing line outside in the winter! If that isn't possible or feasible, then you might consider replacing the (metal?) sleeve with a plastic one such as a PVC pipe. Bonus points for a bit of looseness in the fit between the post and the sleeve (although too loose and your washing line will look drunken).


How to I “set out” the holes for hinges? I am thinking of building some cupboards with inset doors and solid sides (e.g not a face frame).

Are there any “trick” to how I measure the location of the holes for the hinge screws and bore?

I am assuming I will use this type of hinge, but by choose anther type if it is easyer.

If you're going to recess the hinges, you'll want to create a jig and use a router for the recess. I would recommend aligning the door and frame together and marking between the two at each hinge location as a reference point so that you don't install one at the wrong height.

When you're ready to screw in the hinge, place it on the door and frame to mark the locations of the screw holes and then drill pilot holes. Make sure your drill is level and square to the surface so you don't end up with crooked screws.

Finally, when you first attach the hinge to one side, don't tighten it all the way down, leave some play in it. Do the same when you screw it in to the other surface. Then tighten one screw on each side at a time, verifying that the door still swings freely as you go.


Mini Split HVAC System Size for a 1700 Sq Ft basement,,, I have a 1700 sq ft basement on Long Island, NY. It is a less than 1 year old condo with a finished basement.
The initial gas heating was supposed to be a separate HVAC zone, but with only one zone control, the builder tried to balance the main floor heat with the basement. It did not work and the builder's second attempt was a 12000BTU electric split unit on a 15 amp circuit hanging on a wall - but that didn't heat more than 2 degrees in winter, upon from 62 degrees. NOW they want to replace it with a 18000BTU unit on that 15 amp circuit. Is that BTU enough andis the 15 amp circuit sufficient?

18000 BTU = 5200W
5200W @240V= 21.67A

So, no, a 15A circuit is not sufficient. But, I've never heard of or seen a 15A/240V breaker. Seems to me they need would need to install a 30A/240V breaker and 10AWG copper circuit for an 18kBTU system... BUT, it is worse than that!

18kBTU isn't large enough for 1700 sq.ft. This site suggests 24kBTU for  1500 sq ft. (https://www.sogoodtobuy.com/blog/sizing-guide-for-a-mini-split-air-conditioner/).  Seems like your builder has, and continues, to grossly under size the system for your needs.


How do I add a quiet blower or fan to a gas fireplace? I have beautiful fireplace in my family room.  It is gas rather than wood burning, and it vents straight outside.

Due to the nature of how it is vented, I don't really get much heat from it, and I think I am losing a lot of the heat it could be generating during winter (and therefore wasting a lot of energy and increasing my cost.)

After reading my fireplace manual, it appears that I can install a blower that can move heated air from around the exhaust back into the room. There were no instructions on how to do so, however.

What would it take to install a blower for my fireplace, and where might I find a very quiet blower? The noise level is an important factor, as I've heard some fireplace blowers that are extremely noisy, and given the acoustics of the room, I worry it will drown out sound from the entertainment system.

I would contact the manufacturer of the fireplace; either by phone or on the web, they should have a blower designed for your fireplace.  They may also provide instructions on hooking it up, or offer installation as a service.


Home electric circuit goes dead without tripping breaker I have a 15 amp circuit in my home with 8 outlets.  Every couple of months it mysteriously stops working, however, the breaker doesn’t trip.  After a couple days I re-apply the breaker and all is good.   Is this dangerous?  A breaker problem?  Have mice eaten the wires?

I would be verifying that all 8 outlets are not working, this is quite common with backstab outlets that are daisy chained. The problem is usually found at the first non working outlet or the last working outlet. This failure is much more common than a circuit breaker failure. The open circuit condition can be on the black or white wire, if it starts working after pulling the outlet and back stabs were used the outlet should be at a minimum rewired to the screw terminals or replace the outlet with a spec grade 4$ vs a .98$ outlet , but verify the working / non working outlets.
There is a slight possibility of a bad panel with FPR or federal pacific stab lock breakers or a zinsco these are known to have issues and are beyond the average home owner repair, verify all the outlets first next time it goes out.


How to join two 1x6s to form a 23' baseboard with a seamless transition? My upstairs hallway is 23' long and one of its sides has no doors on it, meaning the baseboard on that side covers it continuously.  I am using 1x6 poplar for baseboard and the longest piece my local lumber yard sells is 16'.  I was thinking of joining two pieces but I don't want to have a visible transition.

The one idea that comes to mind is to biscuit join the two pieces or dowel them somehow.  I also wonder if it would be better to just route a groove along the 6 side of each plank in the middle (so approximately 3/8" from each edge) and insert a joining strip of some sort that is elongated (i.e. looks like a popsicle stick).  Once the joining and gluing is done, sand it really well.

Does one of these approaches sound right or is there a better way?  I am sure there must be a way to fabricate really long baseboards from smaller pieces with a seamless transition.

The standard practice is a 30 degree scarf joint preferably joined on a stud. I like to miter my two end with the same setting so I know the angle is perfect(when possible) then take my pieces to their wall a little over sized and scribe them to the floor (making sure the top line of the trim is on plane) and mark out for your end cuts. Once fit, position your pieces and join them with glue and micro pins(skip this if you don't have a micro pinner, brads just make a mess). Let it tack up for a minute and the start securing it with finishing nails. Try to crisscross nails at the scarf without getting too close to the joint.  Cheers!


Who manufactures this bath tub faucet? I have a bath tub faucet that leaks and needs valve replacement. No one seems to know what kind of faucet it is. I have sent a picture of it to the major suppliers and no one seems to know. Maybe someone out there can help. I have had plumbers here as well that do not know.

Click on photo for full size

This is a discontinued brand/manufacturer called Valley. My faucet handle broke and I saw your picture while I was researching for a replacement. I was able to get a replacement today from Biard & Crockett Plumbing Service Inc in Orange, CA.


Should I redo this wall to avoid a mold sandwich? Hello Internet DIYers!

I'm in the process of remodeling my bathroom and I've just realized something I might have done wrong around my shower.

One of the two walls of the shower is an exterior wall, so there was, and there still is, a plastic membrane vapour barrier. Then I installed there a layer of DensShield backer board. And then I waterproofed all the seems and screw heads with 100% silicon (along with the gap I left between the DensShield and the shower base lip). Now I would be ready to reinforce the DensShield seams with alkali resistant mesh tape and thin-set before installing my tiles.

But now I'm concerned that I just created a mold sandwich.

The vapour barrier comes behind my shower base lip, so if there is water stuck between the DensShield and the barrier, it will not be drained into the shower base, it will go on the subfloor. If there is moisture stuck in there, it will stay there.

According to what I have read, I need a vapour barrier on my external wall (according to code).

Now what are my options?

Remove the DensShield, remove the plastic vapour barrier or cut holes into it and use something like KerdiBoard as a tile substrate AND vapour barrier? (The idea is to "make it right".)
Leave everything like that, follow the plan BUT add a liquid membrane (e.g. RedGard) over everything before installing my tile. (The idea is to prevent as much as possible water from getting to the DensShield.)
Other options?

Thanks for any input!

Here is an image of the actual state of my work, if you need a reference...

For a pure shower (not bathtub), I always put a membrane on over the backerboard.  Redgard is my preferred choice right now so I would be fine with that choice.

I really don't think there is anything that you need to do.  If I am putting plastic behind my backer I should see it sticking out under the backer and over the base in the picture - it would be covered by the lowest row of tile.  It's not... not the biggest deal in the world if you have a membrane plus backer.

Final take: There is nothing wrong with Zhentar's advice.  If I were doing a bath/shower combo it is exactly what I would say.  However with the use of caulking for all of the gaps I would one a solid membrane over the area.  The fact is the caulk will dry out expand/contract and may leak after 5 years or so.  You are binding the caulk to larger materials like the DS which will have different expansion rates.  With a membrane you have one solid surface that is made not to crack.


How can we move a subpanel without replacing the supply cable? We recently installed a subpanel, installed it ourselves and had it inspected. Now, as part of the ongoing renovation of the house, we have decided we need to move the panel over 22 inches. The 6 awg cable won't reach that far (why O why did we not build in some slack?). The cable comes up from the basement into the attic floor then across the floor about 10 ft then down into the subpanel, which has its highest switch at 5ft above floor.

So far the ideas we have are:

Build a bulkhead so the cable can go diagonally across that space, which gives us some - not much - slack.
Raise the subpanel so that the highest switch is 6ft 7" above floor (which I think is code max) - altho I think we'd still be short 5".
Pull new 6 awg. This is feasible because the drywall it runs behind is not yet finished.

Any recommendations, ideas? Thx

This is pretty routine, and I've done a lot of it.

Slap a 120mm (4-11/16 if you really want to say all that) square deep junction box where the subpanel used to be.  Plumb 3/4" preferably 1" EMT or rigid conduit from the new subpanel to the aforementioned box.  (Do all this in reverse; coordinate the location of subpanel and junction box so the conduit run is easy, then run the conduit.)

Bring the #6 cable into the 120mm box with a cable clamp.  Attach the cable ground wire to the junction box shell.  The metal conduit is the ground path, and you don't need to run a ground wire unless you really want to.

Get some #6 stranded THWN-2 wire. Run three wires:

neutral (must be white or gray wire)
L1 (any color but green)
L2 (any color but green, bonus style points if different color than L1)

If L1 or L2 are white or gray, you must mark them near both ends with a color of paint or tape other than white, gray or green.

These wires run from the junction box to the subpanel lug.   Inside the junction box they are wire-nutted or spliced  to the corresponding wire in the cable.

If you want to splice other cables into that box too, use 1" conduit and don't go crazy - no more than four circuits per conduit, and watch your junction box fill cubic inches, on a deep 120 you're nearly out already.   They do make box extensions.


Blown fuse from a dehumidifier that has been working for years I have a dehumidifier working 24/7 for about six months of the year.  I've never moved it from the one outlet.  Today the fuse keeps blowing.  Nothing new is plugged in: no change whatsoever.  I plug the dehumidifier in an other outlet, and all is well. Can someone explain what has happened?

When you say you have not plugged anything new in, I take it that you have not bought any new appliances or electronic gadgets. In addition, you stated that the dehumidifier functions just fine when plugged into another outlet. If that is indeed the case then read on.

I have seen something similar occur twice in both residential and industrial settings. What may be happening is a bad connection in the wiring is causing a voltage drop. The bad connection might only affect that one outlet, the whole circuit or part of a circuit.

A small load like a lamp or phone charger will function properly and a voltmeter will show the outlet/circuit as good. But a larger load like a vacuum cleaner or dehumidifier will draw enough current to drop the voltage down enough to where the motor can't get up to speed causing it to pull lots of current. The breaker can't handle the higher current so it trips.

Try this test:

Unplug the dehumidifier from the suspect outlet.
Plug a lamp with an old school incandescent bulb into a different, known working outlet. Note the brightness of the lamp.
Now move and plug the lamp into the suspect outlet. Turn the lamp on and let it sit for a few minutes and note the brightness. The lamp should glow brightly and the circuit breaker should not trip. NOTE: This will NOT reliably work with a compact fluorescent (CFL) or LED bulb.

If the breaker trips or you immediatly notice that the lamp is glowing dimmer in the suspect outlet than the good outlet, you have a wiring problem. If the lamp works fine then proceed below...

Plug the dehumidifier into the suspect outlet ALONG WITH the lamp and turn it on. Make sure the lamp is on before you switch on the dehumidifier. Watch the brightness of the lamp. If the lamp goes dim and stays dim until the breaker trips, you have a voltage drop indicating a wiring problem.

If you have a voltmeter, you can use that in place of the lamp. You can also try using a vacuum cleaner in place of the dehumidifier for step 4.


How do I stack a washer and dryer without a stacking kit? I have a Samsung front-load washer and dryer that I want to stack.  The original stacking kit (SK-2A) is no longer available, but looks like this:

The replacement stacking kit (SK-3A or SK-5A) is basically just a couple of "S" brackets that go in the back.  This places the dryer further back than the washer.  Not only does it look strange, it also wastes precious space.

I assume the only purpose of a stacking kit is to prevent the dryer from accidentally sliding off.  Is there a safe way to do this without a kit?  I was thinking something as simple as a rubber mat would work, but I no experience with stacked units.

personally i'd take the chance with a 20ft endless ratchet strap wrapped around both machines.  with maybe a slim rubber mat between to increase the friction.


How to attach a bolt down post support to a fast set concrete post built with What is the procedure to attach a bolt down post support to a fast set concrete base post? WHat type of bolts and what size should I use to attach this? One of the posts will support a 39" wide gate, the other two will support a 8.5' wide horizontal fence
http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/QuikTubeBuildingForm.asp   -this is the tube

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/bolt-down-in-khaki-4-in-x-4-in/971849 -this is the post support

The final result should be something like below but at ground level. BTW, the one home auger seem to have bits shorter that 3' which is how deep I need to dig here in Toronto to put a post in the ground. I am not sure if this is valid for this type of post

Here is the picture I am referring to in my answer

If you haven't poured concrete yet, use "anchor bolts". (Ref: Simpson Strong-Tie Model # SSTB16-R, for a visual, though it's probably too long and wrong diameter.) I'd use ones around 12-16" long and as big a diameter as will fit. Get galvanized. Bolt them into the base (nut on top and bottom) and use that to maintain alignment while the concrete sets. Once the concrete has set, remove all the nuts, set the base, shim as necessary with metal washers, and bolt it down. For bonus points, add concrete below the base after shimming but before final bolt down.

I can't remember if you have a section of fence adjacent to the gate, but do your best to tie everything together as much as possible. Gates are hard on posts.


How can I remove a 240V heater to make 110V outlet How do I remove a 240V baseboard heater and install a 110V wall outlet. 2 heaters are on the circuit. Both are being removed.  On 20 amp double pole in breaker box with 2 wires. I want to remove that and install a single 15 amp 110. There is a red and a black connected to the double pole breaker. Where do i put the red wire?

There are 3 components to this circuit:
Breaker
You currently have a 20A double-pole breaker. That gives you 240V between the hot wires, as used by the heaters. Unless you go for an MWBC, you should replace that with 2 separate 20A breakers, and if you do that then one would be for the circuit you are using and the other would be available for a totally separate circuit with its own hot & neutral wires. Note that I said 20A, not 15A. Note that you can get 2 120V circuits here, though if you really only need one then you can leave the 2nd space empty.  If you just put in a single 20A breaker then you should put in an appropriate blank cover plate in place of the empty space.
Wire
Note: Ignoring ground for this discussion. Ground should be a green or bare wire run along with the other wires and connected to the panel ground and to any appropriate device ground connections (metal case, ground screw, ground pigtail). You may also have ground connected by using metal boxes + metal conduit. Ground always needs to be connected one way or another.
You currently have red & black wires. That should mean one of two things:

Individual wires run in conduit, and just two of them - black & red. In this case, you should replace one of the wires with a white wire for neutral. Then connect the original wire (black or red) to the breaker, the white to the neutral bar in the panel, and wire up the receptacle on the other end.

12/3 cable which should have black, red and white (plus ground, of course). In this case, you will use the black or red (not both) for hot, plus white for neutral.

Receptacles
That's receptacles, plural. The good news is that an ordinary 15A dual receptacle can be placed on a 20A circuit. That way you can make use of the full 20A for loads. This is an exception to the "receptacles must match breakers" rule. If for some reason you only want 1 receptacle, then it must be 20A for a 20A breaker or 15A for a 15A breaker. But most people want to have 2 receptacles anyway. The only reason I know of to not want to use a 20A circuit is spending extra on the wire. But in this case you should either have a suitable 20A (12 AWG) cable or at least have 1 12 AWG wire (having to add a white neutral), so the cost is minimal to go up to 20A.
Note that since this is not a simple repair, rules for AFCI and/or GFCI may kick in, depending on your local code and the location of the receptacles.


Cold upper interior and exterior walls, moisture forms when showering The house is 3 years old. Exterior walls have bat insulation. The interior walls have no insulation. One interior wall in the top corner where it meets the exterior wall, particularly is very cold.

When someone showers the upper part of the wall show moisture, wet spots all around half the bathroom. The visible moisture areas will go away after an hour or two.

One wall has plumbing.

Above the bathroom is the attic with blown in insulation.
House is 1 story on a slab.

Please help!

Sounds like you need a good exhaust fan to keep the moisture down.

Good luck!


Garbage disposal install - runs on off, trips breaker when switched to on My newly installed Insinkerator Evol Plus garbage disposal runs when switch is turned to off, trips breaker when switched to on. I tried it on a shared circuit. Now it's hardwired to it's own dedicated 15 amp circuit. Replacing the switch didn't help. Is this brand new disposal defective?

You incorrectly wired the switch into this device. What you've created is an always on device and a short in the middle of the circuit:

      Black --------+-----------+
                    |           |
line              switch      disposal
                    |           |
      White --------+-----------+

In this scenario, when the switch is flipped, you create a short circuit that trips the breaker, and there's nothing preventing power from always going to the disposal.

Instead, what you need is to switch the hot, so that power is turned off to the appliance when the switch is opened. Note, you don't switch the neutral since that would result in power going to the appliance and becoming a shock hazard should anything make a path available to ground.

      Black =---+-switch-+------+
                                |
line                         disposal
                                |
      White --------+-----------+


How to make wood slats of slightly different lengths, all of the same length? I am making a DIY dinner table, in the farmhouse table style as in this picture -

So I got the wood slats that form the table top, cut out of a single long wood board, from the Home Depot. I asked them to to make all the slats of 30".

Not when I got them home and put next to each other, they are not exactly of same length. They differ by about quarter inches in length from each other.

Now, I don't know how can I make all the slats to be of same length.

What would be the best tool for this job ? Can I rent a sander and sand the slats to same length ?

I think that you need a circular saw. You could probably pick up a high-quality, used one from a pawn shop for $20 to $40, or a cheap-new one for $40 or $50. Usually, circular saws and sanders aren't for rent... and a new saw is probably cheaper than renting a tool. And if you want to return it, I'd bet the pawn shop will give you a few bucks (back) for it. Alternatively, you might find a hand saw for under $20.

Blade thickness isn't really relevant here, make a mark with a pencil and a straight edge (at 29.5") but don't cut the line... cut adjacent to the line so that the pencil mark is still touching the corner of the board after your cut.

Buy some sandpaper anyway... for the splinters.


How can I install a grounding rod with bedrock four feet down? I have an 8 foot ground that hits solid rock at 4 feet. How can I meet the safety requirements for the 8 foot into the ground rule? Can it be cut in half and have two 4 foot rods driven into the ground?

You can drive at an angle. If I remember correctly, you can dig a trench and lay the 8 foot rod(s) flat in the bottom of it (Personally, I'd never go with one rod anyway.) If you wanted a really good ground, you simply excavate your foundation to bedrock and use an UFER ground in the foundation concrete (it's a concrete encased ground electrode formed by electrically connecting the reinforcing steel in your concrete foundation - or a section of copper cable, but the steel is there and serves multiple purposes.) 20 foot minimum, but common sense is to tie all the steel together for the best possible result.

Note on re-reading - A CCE/Ufer ground does not require excavating to bedrock, but if bedrock is 4 feet down, you might was well put your foundation on the bedrock...

Responding to erroneous comment below:

  Exception 1 to 250.68 indicates that buried electrode connections and
  concrete-encased connections to electrodes shall not be required to
  be accessible. Exception 2 indicates that exothermic welded
  connections and irreversible connections to grounding electrodes that
  are encapsulated in fireproofing material are not required to be
  accessible. The exception applies not only to the connection but also
  the mechanical fastening means, such as a nut or bolt, that
  establishes the connection to the metal framing member.

From EC Mag article. But you can also look it up in the code, that was just faster to find.


standard garden tap size (US) I am building a garden irrigation system which is directly connected to a tap. In Europe the garden taps are usually BSP 3/4" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe). It would be great to have it compatible to the US, therefore I am wondering if you use the same system or what is a standard garden tap thread over there?

Any clues or just stating what you have in your garden would be great!

In the U.S. the standard is simply called Garden Hose Thread or GHT,. It's a 3/4" straight thread with a coarse thread pitch and is not compatible with the BSP which is a finer thread pitch.


Can I replace the entire hose bib stem? Your info on replacing hose bib washer was very helpful.  Can I replace the entire stem arrangement along with the handle.  My hose bibb is probably from 1981 and very corroded.  I tried HD and Lowes they do not handle the stem.  Local Plumbing supply just carries the washers.  Please advise where I can locate the entire stem if it is possible to replace.

The way you get a new stem is to get a whole new sillcock/hose bibb.

If the stem is that corroded, the body probably is as well, so it's likely to not seal right even if you could fine one to match a specific 34 year old valve body (which seems like a bit of a stretch.)

If you can identify your particular valve you MIGHT find a specialist "repair parts" plumbing supplier that has parts, such as (maybe) this one; http://www.azpartsmaster.com/faucet-valve-stem.aspx but if you cannot positively identify the valve, that's unlikely to work (and if the body itself is bad, it may not work anyway, as already mentioned.) If you need a place you can walk into with a valve stem you may need to take a LONG drive to find one "near" you that goes beyond just washers.

At some point fairly early in the process (IMHO) replacing the whole valve makes more sense.


Was it allowed to not ground light switches? I apologize if this has been answered before but I couldn't readily find this question here.

My house was built in the late '80s and all of the light switches have grounding terminals but they are not used. There are regular 14/2 or 12/2 with grounds going in to the electrical boxes but the grounds are just tied off to each other (unless an outlet is present - that atleast is grounded). The boxes themselves are plastic.

Was this ever allowed? Or did the electrician get lazy?

Proper practice is and was to add a ground pigtail to the fixture (the light switch).  On the last outlet in a chain, it's OK to connect ground directly to the light switch.