connecting 2 separate (heat/AC) to one thermostat I already read thru possible answers from the list...

An older home just purchased. Oil burner, house water heat on demand when switch is 'ON'. Heat is hot water run from a pump that is controlled by a simple thermostat - 2 wires - that connect below the transformer on front of the burner with heat exchanger coils inside hot box. Baseboard is an open loop that goes through the entire house in series - nice crawl space. Seems the thermostat is bad cause it is constant heat when unit is on. I tried running the thermostat up and down several times and it seemed as no switching took place - temp in house was close to 80F at the time and I could not shut off the heat. Simple mercury switch with coil... I'm hoping it is the switch.

Some years later they installed an AC unit in the overhead crawl space - compressor outside on slab. Completely separate everything. Has digital readout. Fan switch is AUTO/ON, cooling switch is OFF/ON, two arrows to set temp up/down buttons.

The AC is ducted to an overhead circular vent in center of every room in the house - one level - and the return is a rectangular open screen located at the end of a central hallway.

I need to replace heat switch - in dining room 50' from AC controller that is near the AC return vent opposite end of house. I'm thinking about combining them so that when heat is called for, the circ pump will come on, and my belief is that by adding the central fan running it will be more efficient in heating the house.

Anyone have a thought if this is wise? And then, with nothing more than 2 wire go-no go wiring system for the heat, can I combine this and the AC to a common controller such that the central fan runs when heat is called for?

sheesh, I need a 'tag' but it won't accept any...

Decided to table this until spring. She's moving in this weekend. Just gonna replace the mechanical thermostat for now and see how the oil burner works over the winter. It is 40 years old and maybe replacing it next year is the correct answer - then tie it all together. Too bad no gas here. Thanks


How damaging can a 3 meter (10 feet) long drain hose be for the washing machine pump and microorganism growth? I have two washing machines and they are placed one next to each other (this is the only way I can position them due to the space).

The first one is connected to the drain pipe under the sink normally with it's default hose and it's length (which I think is 1.5 meters or 5 feet), but the other one is placed a bit further so I needed an extension besides the default integrated hose (which like I mentioned is I think 1.5 meters), the smallest drain hose I found was yet another 1.5 meter one, so when connected it totals a bit more than 3 meters long hose (including the connecting adapter) and I was wondering how bad can this be for the washing machine, or more specifically for its pump or microorganism growth inside.

Is there anything I need to take care for or any other tips besides just finding a less lengthy hose? For a shorter hose, I think it can be found in a 1 meter variant (3.3 feet), but for that I will need to order that and maybe wait for a month to come.

Edit:

Forgot to mention that due to the length, the hose curves and this is how it all looks:

Length doesn't matter, going uphill matters
Waste water from anything in your house - sinks, washing machines, dishwashers - doesn't just go 5 or 10 feet. It goes hundreds, typically thousands of feet before it gets to any treatment facility. (OK, if you have a septic tank then the distance is much shorter, but even then, typically a lot more than 10 feet). The main thing is to remember what an HVAC guy once told me (he didn't think highly of "regular" plumbers):

Plumbers just have to know three things:

Hot on the left
Cold on the right
!@$%& runs downhill

If your washing machine had to pump uphill - e.g., if it was in the basement and the only available drain was on the floor above the basement - then the distance would matter as the pump would need enough power to pump up to the drain. In normal installation, the hose only goes up a couple of feet - e.g., to the top of the washing machine - and it is, quite literally, all downhill from there.
I also doubt that, under typical circumstances, a drain hose would be a breeding ground for microorganisms. The exception would be if there is any standing water, which would likely be the case only if there is a loop or flat area of the hose because it is way too long.
If a hose is too long in a practical way - e.g., ends up looped in some fashion, then cut it. If the hose is rubber that should be easy. If it is some other material it still should be possible to cut it and clamp the end in place.


How can I take this kitchen faucet apart? The hot water on my kitchen faucet recently started dripping. I haven't a clue what make or model it is, and I cannot for the life of me figure out how to take it apart to get at the seat and springs. Can anybody help identify it or give my some hints on where I might find a model numbers, so I can find instructions to take it apart? Or, any suggestions on how to get it apart?

You can try one of those round rubber jar opener and if that doesn't work, go to your Harbor Tool store and purchase a rubber strap wrench.  At Harbor, it is sold as a set of three and relatively inexpensive.  Use the one that fits.  Also, try spraying some WD-40 penetrating oil at the base so it loosens the thread (don't get any on the upper part; only the base). The rubber strap wrench won't damage the finish.  This worked for me.


Why is there a hole in my basement wall? I just bought a house & I am curious as to what or why there is a hole in my basement wall. Inside is just the foundation wall and dirt floor. Why would a builder create such a thing? Can the area be finished & habitable? Can you dig deeper & create another level?

The clue here is that the hole leads into an area that is under another part of the upper building structure. It is highly likely that the corresponding part of the building in that area does not have full headroom clearance and thus leaves that area as a "crawl" or "access" space. The hole is what allows you to enter that space if there is need for maintenance and/or repairs. The hole also allows for some air circulation from that area into the rest of the basement to help control humidity and temperature.

I would advise that you do not want to try to dig down the dirt floor space in that area because that would most likely cause you to be digging below the foundation levels in that access space. You do not want to be digging below the foundation levels as that can lead to foundation movement or long term failure.


How can I heat a crawl space to work in The crawlspace at its highest is maybe 5 feet and lowest 1.5 feet with somewhat dusty dirt floor.
It is not insulated.
This winter I'll be working mostly in the larger section doing no flammable work (like foam or fiberglass).
The crawlspace is sealed up with expanding foam insulation, but imperfectly.  For now, the large
entry doors are slotted and maybe provide 1 sq foot of fresh air as well as various other leaks.
I expect to work for 2 to 3 hours at a time.  I would bring a combined co2 / smoke detector
with me into the space while working.
I have a few options:

Salamander or stand up kerosene heater - Mostly rejected as I don't want another fuel source
to have to deal with, as well as the safety issues.

30000 - 60000 propane salamander - I have a 20LB tank on hand and could get another one.
I could pipe via the supplied flexible hose to tank outside.
No confidence issues there - blast the place to 90F, turn it off and coast while I'm working.
Tank would be at ambient though, which in January is pretty cold.
I would construct a small pad in the largest section of the crawl space with concrete blocks
to place this heater.

Enough power is there for 2 ceramic 1500W heaters - less interested due to cost.

I also have a 'Buddy heater', small one.  Could plumb that to same 20LB tank outside or use
single cylinders.

Buy Big Buddy heater, much higher output.

Other options ?

Buddy heaters have Oxygen Depletion Sensor but id be surprised if that condition occurs due to
air leaks in basement.
Thanks.

What is your house heat? If it's some sort of hot air furnace, you might be able to tap it?
Otherwise there are "construction heaters" you can rent which include indirect fire (no fumes) hot air units, with ducts and blowers. But probably more than you want to spend...
Thirdly, unless firstly, as it's simplest and least expensive and most portable:  insulated coveralls and rechargeable heated underwear (if needed. Decent polypropylene thermal underwear will get you a long ways without batteries, particularly with "major brand workwear" thermal coveralls on top.)


How do I seal/paint pine casing for maximum lifetime? I'm working to replace the exterior pine casing around my front door. I'm wondering if I should paint between where pieces of trim butt against each other, or to use sealant between them, or to butt them together with their unfinished wood touching each other? I'll be using galvanized finishing nails.

My trim needs to be 6.5 inches wide, and is formed with two pieces of wood that run next to each other. Should I put sealant where the two pieces meet, or just put paint at their interface?

I plan to put sealant between the trim and the aluminum siding.

If you're going for maximum lifetime, you should make sure to prime all cuts with an oil based primer.  If the lumber didn't come pre-primed, then prime all surfaces with an oil based primer.  If you use a fast drying primer, you can get a coat of paint over the cut before you install it.  I wouldn't worry about using a "sealant" between the boards.  I'm guessing you mean "caulking" when you say sealant.

You should install the trim, and then caulk the seam between the two pieces of lumber after the trim is on the wall.  Let it dry over night, and then apply two coats of paint over everything, including any caulking that you've applied.  One mistake I see fairly often is that people will caulk something to try and keep water from getting in, but then they don't paint the caulking.  The sun dries it up, it shrinks just enough for water to get behind it, and then the caulking has the opposite effect.  It actually traps moisture behind itself, slowly rotting the joint that it's meant to protect!

The best thing you can do for yourself in all of this has nothing to do with paint.  Make sure you buy solid lumber.  Do not ever use finger-jointed pine in an exterior application.  I have seen so much rot over the years, because people use finger-jointed lumber in high moisture environments, and it just falls apart in a decade or less, even when it's been painted.  That stuff is for interior use only!


What are the code requirements for upgrading a residential service panel? I am new to the forum and would appreciate all the help I can get! I live in the Salt Lake City, Utah area, and just bought a home that isn’t that old at all (mid 90’s). I was doing some investigating with the electrical panel and what circuits fed which rooms and by the looks of things it seems to be wired very strange to me.

Bedrooms wired to garage lights, a washing machine tied into an upstairs bedroom. It gets frustrating to turn of breakers and have unexpected power shut off where you weren’t expecting it to go off.

To ask a simple question in a long post, what are the codes/requirements for switching out my electrical panel to hold more breaker slots? It’s an older Square D panel that has 16 slots. I just want to make it cleaner and have circuits and branches going to dedicated areas instead of the botched remodel and crazy jungle I have now.

I don’t want to upgrade my power and don’t think I need to (maybe I’m wrong). My current panel is rated at 100 amps and just switched over to gas dryer and stove so I no longer am using the two 50 amp slots. Which freed up quite a bit of power draw.

Any suggestions on panels, code requirements, and feed back from anyone who had done a project like this before would be appreciated.

Some of us, including me, are huge proponents of large panels, and so are cheering your idea of getting a much larger panel.  That may blind at least me to the downsides of such a switch.

A huge amount of the downside relates to how the panel is mounted and accessible.  If it's mounted on an unfinished area with easy access to the various cables going in/out, and the main power inlet is in a favorable place to fitting a larger panel,that is quite a different deal than a panel buried in drywall etc.

There is also the option of going with "double stuff" (tandem) breakers that some of us positively hate, because they have performance compromises and foreclose the possibility of putting AFCI breakers on that circuit.  With a 16 space panel powering a modern house, quite likely your panel is already full of double-stuffs.

Anyway, to do this, you will certainly need to have the power company turn your power off for the duration, and you should ask your building authority whether you need to pull a permit for a project that is a pure 1:1 unit replacment.  They may say no.  If they insist, also ask them if as part of the scope they'll insist on any code upgrades. Normally work is grandfathered to the state it was in when it was built, and since you're not remodeling the circuits they shouldn't require, say, AFCI at $50 each.

Also think about whether the wire lengths of branch circuits will require you to frame the new, taller panel upwards or downwards so most cables reach. It is ok to splice with wirenuts to extend wires.   You can also end the circuits in junction boxes outside the panel and use extension wires thru short EMT conduit to bring them home.  Those boxes are great places to stick $15 GFCI deadfront or livefront receptacles rather than $40 GFCI breakers.

Or add a subpanel

One way to avoid a hard panel change is to fit a subpanel.  The subpanel can be right there, or at some other useful location in the house.  The sub can be a panel rated at larger than 100A ampacity (to get a respectable number of spaces like 30, it'll need to be >100A rated. 30+16-2 = 44, a workable number of spaces for a house, the -2 is for the subfeed breaker).

If the subpanel and main-sub feeder is also >=100A rated, then you don't need a subpanel breaker - your main panel's main breaker protects the feeder and sub.  You tap either off the bottom fed lugs, or they make a "no-breaker breaker" which snaps into a breaker slot but is just lugs.

A slick trick with subpanels is have a conversation with your power company about where else you could fit a main service drop and meter.  Place the subpanel in such an ideal location, and get a big 225 subpanel with main breaker (or space for same). Later, when you want more service, get a bigger meter pan, connect it to the new sub, and have the PoCo bring the new, larger service drop to the new meter and retire the old one. Now the sub becomes the main, and the old main becomes a sub.


Noise problem from neighbour I have just moved into a house with an open area in the back that is glassed in.  Something that they call a Queensland room in Australia.  A patio that has glass walls and windows.  My neighbour loves his music.  How can I reduce the noise coming from his place through glass.  Is there something that can be stuck on the glass that is see through that stops the noise from coming into our space.  I don't want to antagonise him because he sounds like he is having a great time and is a nice neighbour otherwise.

The best solution, though perhaps not always the most practical, is to upgrade single glazing to double-glazing or upgrade double-glazing to triple-glazing.

A compromise is "secondary double glazing" which is not as effective.


Two Circuits on a Single 12/3 - Shared Neutral I was recently trying to upgrade a 20A breaker supplying outlets in my kitchen and dining room to a CAFCI breaker.  When I opened my breaker box I saw that the neutral on this circuit was shared with an adjacent breaker, which supplies our kitchen refrigerator.  This setup does not seem particularly safe (noted when I disconnected the outlet breaker and the neutral was sparking when I tried to disconnect it from the busbar).  From reading around, it seems that the outlet and fridge breakers should have a handle tie since this is a MWBC.  Is this correct?  If so, can I replace both breakers with a double pole CAFCI breaker?  Is it okay to have a fridge and kitchen outlets powered from the same breaker?  Thanks in advance!

TLDR: Square D makes a 2-pole CAFCI (# QO220CAFIC) that will do what you want.  However, this panel needs a lot more attention, as it has more "bomb" circuits like this one, and it's full, and addressing that will intersect with this issue.

It's called a Multi-wire Branch Circuit.  There's nothing wrong with them. You're just a) unfamiliar with them, and b) they were installed in a manner that is now a Code violation.  Precisely because of what you observed.
Note that an MWBC is one circuit.  It is not 2 circuits with a shared neutral.  It is one circuit.
MWBCs must have handle-tied breakers
These are required so that people doing maintenance on the circuit shut off both halves of the circuit, so they don't get nailed by unexpected neutral current from the other half.  (Or exactly what happened to you).
MWBCs MUST be on opposite phases - 240V between legs
This is mandatory or the neutral wire will be overloaded.
This is AC power, but it's constructive to think of it as DC.  If neutral is 0V, then think of one leg as +120V.  The other leg needs to be -120V.  If one leg has 14A and the other leg has 15A, then 14A of current simply bypasses neutral, and neutral flow is only 1A.
However if both legs were +120V, and you had 14A and 15A currents, neutral would bear 29A which is way over its safety rating.  Neutrals don't have breakers, so the only defense is wiring the MWBC correctly.
Of course it's AC, so it switches to the exact opposite 120 times a second, but the general principle bears.  Opposite legs makes neutral safe.
Now look at those "double-stuff" breakers in your panel's upper right.  Those fit in 1 space, which attaches to 1 pole (leg).  That means you have the same leg on both half-breakers.  That sounds like a TERRIBLE thing to put an MWBC on, doesn't it?  Yet, thisis a very common blunder.
How about a 2-pole breaker instead of "handle-ties"?
After all, they're a lot easier to find.   (they look like a "double wide" breaker, which on your QO type has a single handle; everyone else's has double handles.) You betcha. They're a great choice for those reasons.
However, they are more than just handle-tied. Inside the breaker is a "common trip" mechanism which provides a guarantee that if one side trips, so does the other.  Handle ties don't guarantee it.
Here's an interesting fact about MWBCs: They can power both 120V and 240V loads at the same time!  However, if they do, they must have a common trip breaker i.e. 240V breaker.  So you could fit, say a NEMA 6-15 recep for some European appliance.  They even make combo 5-15/6-15 receps for both in one receptacle.
So now that you've bitten the fruit from the tree of knowledge...
You need to go through this entire panel and identify every MWBC.  Look for cables coming in that have both black and red wires.  Identify and follow its pigtailed wires.  Make sure every MWBC

Opposite-phased (240V between the hot legs) at the very least
On a handle-tied or 2-pole breaker.  (2-pole breakers are $18 because you have the expensive but excellent Square D "QO" type; handle-ties will be cheaper).
MWBCs and tandem breakers (like in upper right) are very tricky and dangerous. You may have to confront this issue.

If you need to double-stuff some of your MWBCs for lack of panel space, then call around to real electrical supply houses and find out who is a Square D dealer. Talk to them about your options. There is a type of breaker that is both double-stuff and 2-pole called a "Quadplex", those work with MWBCs, but they are hard to get.  They can also advise you on the possibility of handle-tying the inner switches on 2 adjacent tandems.
Your panel is very full - time to start thinking subpanel
This panel is absolutely full.  You have no breathing space, even correcting MWBC handle-ties could be a challenge.  It might seem like you've only just begun double-stuffing this panel, but they're only allowed in the top 5 rows.  8 of those 10 spaces are already double-stuffed (that thing in row 5 left is an "old school" tandem designed to be installed 2 abreast with handle-ties on one or both; pity you only have the one.)
So you are maxed out.
The problem is you have too few spaces for as much main breaker as you have.   This is very common; houses these days really need 50-ish spaces.  The builder thought "Oh, this is a 30-space/40-circuit panel, it'll be FINE!" but you know that is not so.
Swapping the whole panel for a 60-space would be mad; that's very expensive and very disruptive.  If there is space to the left, you can simply install a subpanel there.   Note how things to the right are connected with short nipples of PVC conduit.  Do the same thing but with steel conduit, so it carries ground to the sub.  And have 1 big pipe (for the feeder wires) and 2 more little ones (they are so very useful, it's sad when people omit them).
Fortunately your panels are all surface mounted, so they're easier to work with.
If you want to put the subpanel somewhere else in the house so you can shorten some cable runs, that's fine too.
As far as brand, QO is of course excellent.  If you're thinking future generator, several panels will do.  However, here's an interesting tidbit: GE has an AFCI breaker that does not require a neutral wire.  It's specifically marketed to work on MWBCs.
Oh yeah... that AFCI
On MWBCs, AFCI is harder because it depends on the existence of 2-pole AFCI breakers from the manufacturer.  (QO physically can't take competitor breakers*, but other 1" panels shouldn't because even though they seem to fit, they aren't physically compatible at the bus stab.)
They make a 2-pole GFCI for your panel, QO220CAFIC, but it's a bit hard to find.
Fortunately it's not mandatory since this is old work.  (For new work, don't use MWBC unless...)
There's also that GE breaker. Can't put it in anything but a GE panel, but you're due for a subpanel, so that's a thought.
Other than that, your AFCI option is to fit an AFCI receptacle at the first recep location in the chain.  That will not provide protection for the cable run from panel to first recep!

* Difference in the shape of the bus stabs makes it bad to put brand X breaker in brand Y panel.  However, UL has a certification program for companies making breakers specifically for competitor panels. The only ones I'm aware of are Eaton "CHQ" and Siemens "QD" for QO panels, and Eaton CL for certain 1" wide breaker panels.


Is there such a thing as a vacuum sump pump? No standing water above check valve? Is there such a thing as a vacuum operated sump pump?
Most sumps or ejector pumps leave a column of water above the check valve, and leave a few centimeters of water in the sump beside.

I have a need to install two sumps where this is undesirable.  The first is a graywater ejection system where it is better not to 'store' the water.

The second is a place that gets wet 4-5 times per year.  I currently vacuum this up with a shop vac leaving the area totally dry.  If I place a sump instead, the sump (sealed or not) will have standing water much longer.

I am aware of water powered emergency backup lifters (e.g. RB-750 from RadonSeal -- 1 gallon in lifts 2 gallons out).

Sort of, but it probably doesn't work like you think. I'm guessing you want a pump that works like a shop vac. But once you put in a provision to drain off the collected liquid, the vacuum effect no longer works. One could concoct a system that alternately sucks, then drains, but I know of no such commercially available package system. Maybe something like this does exist? I'll bet it would be pretty loud!

There are vacuum primed pumps, they tend to be large, and when the first bit of air hits the impeller as the sump empties, all the remaining liquid in the suction pipe drains back into the sump. Something similar happens with the jet pump you linked to, but since the pipe is small, the volume of liquid drained back is small. But there's always the liquid remaining between the sump floor and the highest portion of the inlet opening, no matter which pump you use. Only manual vacuuming will get at that. In addition, most pump controls shut off the pump before there's any chance of sucking air, leaving even more liquid in the sump.

People typically use self priming pumps to suck out liquid from containers. These sorts of pumps all must retain a liquid reservoir in the casing from which they can re-initiate their prime. There's always some left over liquid sitting around somewhere when ever a liquid pump is involved.

It is possible to concoct a system where after the wastewater is mostly removed, potable water is added and pumped away in an attempt to flush away the remaining wastewater, so that only clean water is left standing. The reality is you are only diluting the remaining wastewater, so some small wastewater portion will always remain.

Jet pumps like the one you linked to are clever devices. You do need good water flow, and they do use a LOT of potable water. Also be aware that the integral check valve of this device will not be considered adequate by almost any building authority. Some sort of vacuum breaker will likely need to be added, further reducing available pressure and volume. These jet pumps are for removing relatively clean groundwater. The bits of food, hair, lint, etc. found in graywater will probably clog the device.


How do I reroute my existing bathroom piping for a pedestal sink? (Similar to this question here)

I am renovating a bathroom, and I'd like to put a pedestal sink in, instead of a full sized vanity. The primary issue is I would have to move the drain pipe, it is a cast iron drain pipe that is currently on the wrong side of an interior wall stud.

I have full access to the wall in the bathroom, so I can get at pretty much any part of the piping, but I'm not sure how to handle the stud and changing the iron piping.

Here's a picture of the way it looks now (what pictures would help?)

The bit of PVC you see sticking out immediately connects to the aforementioned cast iron pipe, it broke while I was trying to remove it.

Here's some more pictures:

The stud you would use a hole bit that is the same size as your piping to cut a circular hole.  You can pick up these bits at big box or a place like Harbor Freight in the US.

You do need to make sure that the stud is not load bearing!  If it is or could be we need more info and pictures.

It really looks like you have PVC but we can't see everything.  If you need to go from PVC to cast iron use a coupling.


Trouble with identifying wiring for heat pump setting up Nest The home I moved into has a Honeywell thermostat controlling an Amana heat pump. I am trying to replace this with a Nest thermostat instead. Here is a photo of the wiring for the existing thermostat before making any changes:

Nest wants me to identify both of the "Y" wires. How can I tell which one controls heat and which one controls cooling?

I'm also unsure how I can determine whether the heat pump should be set up for "O" or "B", though I've read that most are "O". Will I cause damage to the equipment if I set this in the wrong mode?

Which wire is used for emergency heat via the heating coils? Is that the W2 wire in the image above?

First, the labels you need to look at are the ones on the outside - not the ones under the wires.  The labels under the wires are for a conventional system.  Looking at the labels on the outside, it's clear that the two yellow wires are Y and Y1, and the white wire on the left is AUX, which is normally Auxiliary or emergency heat.

Y and Y2 are normally used for a modern HVAC system that has dual stage cooling, so neither should be used for heat specifically.  On a conventional system, the W wire is used to call for heat, but on a heat pump, a combination of the O wire and Y wire(s) call for heat.

Choosing O for the switch over valve wire is a safe bet.  If you choose wrong, the heat pump will start in heating mode when you call for cooling or will not go into heat mode when heat is called for.  It shouldn't damage anything.

Also, some of those wires might not do anything for your system. For instance, I can't tell you what L, S1 and S2 do.  Maybe nothing, but you might need to look at the old thermostat instructions or the other end of the wiring on your heat pump to figure that out.


Christmas Lights on a Metal Roof Does anyone have any experience with metal roofs and Christmas lights? I've got icicle lights and red C9 lights. The icicle lights I was able to use my shingle hooks and place between a foam padding under the metal roof, and the decking, so that's not a problem, but I'd like to get the red lights to be displayed along the outside edge, and along the ridges.

Some ideas I've seen are magnetic clips, or magnetic lights, but for $0.70/clip, or $1/light, I'd be spending at least $150 for my 200 ft of light clips. I may just have to eat the cost for this.

If needed, I can throw some pics of my roof up once it's day time, but I'm running out of time for this season, so I thought I'd ask.

Here's the C9 bulbs.

How about binder clips and small individual magnets? Or, you can just use the binder clips to the edge of the roof.


Mounting a TV on a chimney breast In our new house the master bedroom is on the upper level and has a chimney running through the room from the living room below. It's painted brick and all 4 sides are exposed (you can walk around it). We thought it might be a good idea to mount a tv on it so we can see it from our bed.

We haven't committed to anything yet. It will likely be a smaller TV especially since, unfortunately, it's the narrow side of the chimney that faces us. The fireplace in the living room is bricked up and simply decorative now, but I believe the water heater and the furnace may still be vented into this chimney. The house was build in the 1920's and I assume the chimney has always been there.

What would be a good way to mount a TV in such a situation? I'm a little leery of drilling into the chimney and was wonder if there is something that would wrap around it to support the TV. We will run cables down from the ceiling.

1/4 diameter, 1.5 to 2 inch long (depending on bracket thickness) Tapcons. This is not an ad, it's what I've been using for 20+ years. They will not penetrate the inside of the chimney. Its painted so holes in the brick are a non-cosmetic issue. A wrap-a-round metal band would look like it's from the 80's and not anywhere near as strong. You can have as large of a TV as you want if your willing to drill some extra holes in the mounting bracket and "tapcon the hell out of it".


Goodman furnace - C Wire connection I'm trying to connect the C wire in my Goodman furnace in order to install a new thermostat. I've read all the posts on this forum about this specific issue so my question is whether i'm in the right path or not.
Here are a couple pictures of my transformer and the R G W Y and C terminals.

As you can see, on the lower left side of the transformer I have two blue wires and one wire connected to the chasis. From what I understood from other posts, one alternative is to use a piggyback connector to link it to the C terminal.

I don't know if you can appreciate it on the picture but the C terminal is on the bottom and there's a blue wire connected to it that's also connected to the chasis.

So, to sum up my question is: do I have to use the piggyback connector or being both points connected to the chasis the only thing I have to do is connect the thermostat to that C terminal?

Thanks in advance

You should be able to use that screw terminal for the C wire in the bottom picture.  I assume that the blue wire on the spade terminal goes to the 24v transformer?  It looks like the transformer has a red wire and a blue wire coming off it.  The red wire from the transformer is the "R" and the blue wire would then be the "C" wire.

Looks like an easy hookup - on some older units to have to hunt around more to find a good connection point.


What to look for in a home security system? We're in the process of researching home security systems for a house.  We're in the process of remodeling (door change, painting, etc), so I'd like to do that at the same time.  Our contractor has a standard solution that they are pushing on us.  I have no reason to mistrust them, but I also don't want to adopt a system without doing a modicum of research.

I  am looking for:

General advice on security systems,
Sources of impartial information on same (like CR),
Any input on key and not so key features for a security system (motion sensors, glass break sound sensor, contacts at doors and windows, etc, etc).

At this point I am not looking for general security advice (making the house less attractive, getting a dog, etc).

Our house is in an upper middle class area of town, and is certainly a potential target.  We have several entry doors and several ground-level or accessible windows.

It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Obvisly the contractor is pushing some ready to fit diy type security system.

In this case you need to ask him, will the unit allow you to connect to a security company such as ADT/Police via a phone line/ gprs module? as a future option. maybe get him to put a phone wire to the main box ready just to avoid redesigning later. Always good to run 1 6core and a spare 6core in case you want to add more sensors later.
Does it have a backup power supply and how often do you have to change the battery and how much will it cost. maybe buy 1 or 2 spare in advance. Will it let you know when the batteries life time is over.(nothing lasts forever)

That was the basic part.

Now thinking of intermidiete planning and costs at a later stage.

Does the unut generally allow you to upgrade to features such as remote access via internet (by purchasing an addon module to the main system), secure/desecure via Bluetooth, module to call another number on alarm trigger like your mobile, your partner (you set your mobile to always have a loud alarm even on silent when the alarm line calls you)

Now thinking of a more hightech and costly solution.

Will the system allow you to include cctv cameras with motion sensing and remote viewing of video via internet.These do not have to be wired- but jammers are easy to buy now a days, and cables are easy to cut--if exposed) Maybe run spare coax cables with power supply in places where you think you might want to have cameras installed and let them lead to the main box in the loft/secret space somewhere.

Ask him what is the make of the system.. and go google it. find a forum see what people have to say about- see if you can find your own prebuilt diy system that might meet your needs and has an option to expand.

If the contractor has no idea what you talking about.. get a specialist security person in to work with your building contractor.. otherwise you might regret it later.


How should I reseal my cobblestone patio? Disclaimer: I’m not a native speaker and, as such, I have limited vocabulary, especially in the home improvement department. I also have limited competence, but that’s another matter entirely.

I’m currently cleaning my cobblestone patio — with an high-pressure washer and, no, they’re not set on a sand bed  — and I need to seal them again. What should I use to do so? Would sand suffice?

They should be laid in a sand bad, but also you should bind them together with cement based mortar if they are not regular shaped. If they are all same shape you can stack them without mortar, but it is not simple. Maybe you should think about hiring experienced mason.


faint LED glow when smart dimmer switch is off I have a TP link HS220 dimmer switch that appears to be working correctly with the Phillips 8w LEDs I have. It goes on/off min and max dim with no issues. However, when I turn off the switch there is a slight glow coming from the LED light. This dimmer controls 2 LED lights and you can see the faint glow on one of the lights. :(
The way I installed this is not typical because the circuit actually goes to the light 1st then to the smart switch, so at the switch I have a 14/2. I have the black going to the hot screw and the white wire going to the load. Luckily this switch is installed on a 2 GANG box that also has a fan switch. The fan is using a 14/3 wire and one of the wires is no longer being used by the fan. This was the wire that controlled the fan light. So I took this wire and connected it to the neutrals at the fan box in the ceiling and then connected the other side of this wire to to the smart dimmer on the neutral pigtail (both wires go to the same breaker). Again, all appears to be working but when the switch is completely off, you can see a glow coming from the LED light.
I'm trying to determine if its my wiring that is causing this glow or if its the switch. I'm not an electrician and would appreciate any help in trying to figure this out.
TIA, P
Update, I did eventually get rid of the faint glow with a better bulb. I used the GE reveal 10w BR30 and this removed the glow. I also realize I have some code violations the way I wired things. Since I have no neutral I will be moving to a Caseta dimmer at some point and removing the TP link
.

I can't say for sure why you have that LED glow. Typically that is due to deliberate power leakage through switched hot for a switch that doesn't require neutral. However, this switch requires neutral and you have described a wiring installation where it gets neutral. So the mystery remains. But you have bigger problems.
The neutral/hot/switched hot need to be together. Not going to immediately cause a big problem in your current (pun intended) setup because LEDs don't use much power, but definitely against code and not good long-term. In addition, you very likely have a color-coding problem.
Here are the key things:

Neutral must run together with the other wires of the circuit. In some cases you don't need neutral - that's why your switch loop didn't have it. New code requires neutral at switches to take care of this problem, but old wiring is grandfathered. Grandfathered wiring takes care of the code issue until you actually need the neutral! So for this setup, you either need a new 14/3 cable to replace the 14/2 (so you can get the correct neutral) or you need a switch that doesn't require neutral.
Wherever you do get neutral, it must be white or gray (or grey). Based on your description, you very likely repurposed an unused red or black wire to be neutral. You are permitted to use a white wire in a cable as hot or switched hot under limited circumstances, but you can't use a colored wire as neutral.

Part of the problem is that historically dimmers, timers, etc. would leak current through switched hot to power themselves. That works great with incandescent lights. With LEDs, that results in either a glow or (even worse) blinking. The solutions are:

Battery - You have to change it periodically.
Neutral - You have to get a neutral in the right place (as you found out the hard way). Which is why code now mandates neutral in switch boxes.
Ground - Permitted under limited circumstances when designed properly and approved.

End result: You may need a different switch. But if the switch (this one if the problem can be fixed, or another one) needs neutral, then you will need a new cable - you can't grab a neutral from elsewhere, even though it is on the same breaker/circuit.


Can I connect circuits for a dishwasher and sink disposal unit to the same breaker? Can the garbage disposal and dishwasher, each with its own GFCI receptacle, share the same 20 amp circuit at the main electrical panel?

This is kind of a tricky question. For many years contractors connected the disposal and dishwasher on a split receptacle below the sink. Now with newer and larger appliances consuming more power there could be a problem.

Also there has been some conversations in the AHJ and Code communities about NEC 400.12 (2) Uses not permitted - Where running through holes in walls ... Does it mean a fixed appliance electrical cords passing through a cabinet wall? Right now it's kind of up in the air and I'm betting there will be a code clarification coming up in newer revisions.

If you can perhaps the smarter move would be to extend the circuit from the disposal receptacle and install a separate receptacle behind the dishwasher. Or super safe install a separate circuit for each appliance.

One last thing, both now need to be on GFCI protected circuits.

So make sure your GFCI protected, verify the circuit can hold the total load (that includes the start up surge of motors) using the nameplate data of the appliances and take it from there.

Hope this helps.


Need help making an exact size marble "ingot" I'm making a marble Monopoly board. Each space on the board will be a 3" x 1.5" piece of marble, purchased as small tiles from Home Depot, then cut to size using a budget tile wet saw. I will etch the ingots on a laser cutter. (Tests have been great.) The saw cuts the tile ok but the cut dimensions aren't exact enough for my needs. I want to be able to sand/grind the edges of the ingots, both to correct any erratic size variances or angles, as well as smooth out the edges. Suggestions?

Marble is easy - this is not at all dissimilar to finely fitting marble tiles, and marble being a relatively soft rock, you can wet-sand it, or use a silicon-carbide block from the tile section at the home improvement store to dress it to precise size. The block will last longer, but is quite coarse - wet/dry sandpaper can be had in a number of different grades from very coarse to very fine.

Without knowing for sure, I also wonder if you are merely up against a "budget tile saw" or if you are forcing the cuts rather than letting the saw cut at a speed it's happy with. Most diamond-blade tile saws (particularly wet ones) make quite good cuts, when run properly, unless the whole thing is really shoddy.


Does wire run in conduit in a crawl space need to be rated for moisture? Quick question for all the electricians out there. I'm in the states and looking to make a couple new electrical runs for the outside of my house.

The runs will be done inside my crawl space inside schedule 80 pvc. Once I reach the exit point I will drill a hole through the block wall and hook it to an electrical box on the outside of the house.

Here is my question.

Does the wire need to be rated for moisture seeing as how it's
    under the house, or will the fact that its in the pvc negate that
    requirement?

Simply use dual-rated THHN/THWN and call it a day

Just about all THHN made and sold today is dual-rated THHN/THWN-2 -- this means that you'll be getting wet location performance "for free" when you use THHN in conduit.


How to measure and cut oddly shaped tile I really like this tile my wife found, but I'm concerned about installation.  I've tiled a good amount, but always rectangular tiles.  How would one cut an odd shaped tile like this?  Would I need to trace the tile on wood and cut it out to make a sort of jig that I could then use to run along the fence?  That's the only thing I can think of.  Any advice would be welcome. It would be for a bathroom floor, if that matters at all.

You can cut tile without power tools.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/QEP-21-in-Pro-Tile-Cutter-10521Q/305663365


How can I regulate pressure to a BAXI LUNA 240i boiler? I need to increase the pressure to the boiler, how should I proceed? I checked on YouTube and found a couple of systems but they do not apply to my model (at least not at first sight).
Some pics here (click for full size):

This boiler also feeds the floor heating system.

Here's the manual in Italian and Spanish1, if you can read it.
The part about pressuring is usually covered at the beginning in maintenance but more fully explained in the installation section.

1 Cheers for clarifying the language.


Which way should the water separator be fitted to an air compressor? I bought a water separation filter for my new compressor. The water separator didn't come with any good documentation. Here's what came in the pack:

A diagram on the packaging:

The device:

The device as seen from the top (note the markings):

The side with the square marking:

The side with the triangle marking:

Which end should be connected to the compressor and which end should be connected to the hose?

the arrow (triangle) always points in the direction of air flow (from the compressor to the tool). In this case you would attach the filter (arrow side) to the air line usually after a valve (but not always) and on the opposite side a hose (or whatever accessories there may be). Use Teflon tape on all threads And don't use paste which may clog tool ports. And a good habit is to drain the tank of condensation regularly.


How to whiten a white Ikea mattress cover? The cover of my mattress has gone grayish and yellowish, it looks bad. But on Ikea's website it says "do not bleach".
Is there still a way to make it more white? Perhaps not as white as it once was, but at least presentable?
Details:
100% polyester
Polyester wadding
Non-woven polypropylene
Machine wash
max 60°C, normal process. Do not bleach. Do not tumble dry. Do not iron. Do not dryclean

Try Clorox2, or Hydrogen Peroxide, or Sodium Percarbonate or Oxyclean, (it's all the same stuff) instead of chlorine bleach.   Chlorine bleach reacts with some brighteners to turn them yellow or purple.


ceiling fan install red wire /white wire My kitchen had a ceiling light with 2 switches. I removed the light fixture and I want to install a ceiling fan and light that has a remote control.

I connected the black wire from the fan to the black wire in the box and the white wire from the fan to the red wire in the box. The light and fan work from the remote but not from the wall switch. Is this correct?

Also, when I turn the fan and light off at night using the remote at around 10 pm, we find the fan OR the light will be on around 2-3am and this will happen even with the light switches in the OFF position and the battery REMOVED from the remote. Why would that happen?

Red is usually used for "switched hot". Black is typically for the hot side, and white is for neutral. I would expect you to wire black to black, white to white, and bare/green to bare/green. Then you'd control the ceiling fan with the remote, NOT the switch.


I have voltage on my neutral wire for a 220 volt ac inverter and blew up some of my house appliances Why does my white neutral conductor has voltage on it? Is a 220 VAC from a DC to AC Inverter circuit supply. The outlet is like a normal American 110 VAC socket but I requested it to be made as a 220 VAC. I tested the black hot conductor and the red hot conductor and both made a 240 VAC and that was ok, That is what I ordered. I was spec ting that to feed my electrical main 220 VAc Breaker Box with those 2 poles 120 VAC each. The problem came when I tested the white neutral conductor and the black hot conductor that should gave me only 120 VAC but it didn't; instead gave me a lecture of 240 VAC also. Weird. Finally I tested the white neutral conductor to the Red hot wire that should gave me again another 120 VAC but instead gave me crazy 80 VAC. I was scratching my head WTF. When I made the connection anyway to see it blew up most of my electrical light bulbs and some appliances. I was really mad. The DC input voltage was fine above the lowest operational voltage and below the highest operational voltage as per manual, but the AC output was wacky. It is brand new 48 VAC Pure Sine Wave Inverter and I need it to supply my house and there is no warranty. An electrician told me that probably the neutral wire is connected somehow to a hot wire inside the inverter or is not connected at all and could be a factory faulty inner connection and not a misunderstood installation made wrong by me. Please help me. Any comments of useful testing of troubleshoot fixing solutions will be thankfully appreciated. Bless you.

It sounds like this is a custom-made piece of electronics, so I would contact the manufacturer to find out how you're supposed to use it. It may be defective or maybe there is a misunderstanding of how it is supposed to function.

As a side note, I think it's dangerous to have a US-style 110V outlet wired with 220V... that's just asking for an injury or fire when someone plugs something into it. There are standard receptacle shapes for 220V (such as those used by generators, clothes driers, etc.). Also, the outlet itself and anything you plug into it is probably not rated for the higher voltage, even if you know what you're doing.


How to connect furniture without cam locks? I am planning to build my own coffee table.
Is there any other way to connect furniture without using cam locks?
Because it's hard to align and requires skills.
Any ideas?
Thanks.

The subject of joining wood is vast.  Just look at the "woodworking joints"  Wikipedia article for a start. Usually cam locks are used for furniture built from kits such as IKEA.  Furniture made from scratch will use more traditional joinery techniques such as dovetails, mortise and tendon, tongue and groove, etc.


Kitchen lights not working after changing bulbs These F32T8 kitchen light bulbs stopped working, so I replaced them with these bulbs. After I replaced it, the lights turned on fine the first time. However, the lights no longer turn on. I've checked that the new lights are compatible with the old one and I have also checked the circuit breaker. How can I fix this? Thank you.

Additional: Immediately after the light bulb change, the light was on for 1+ hour. However, once I turned it off, it did not come back on. Just now, the light turned on when I was flipping the switch. After that, it does not come back on again.

Sounds like a bad ballast. Ballasts do not live forever and need to be replaced from time to time.


Varnishing at low temperatures I need to varnish (I have an oil-based polyurethane) some piece of furniture. I can't do this in my house, but I could do it in garage, however I worry about the temperature, obviously the garage is not that warm as inside the house (think of a typical North American house with attached garage, no heating, while outside is winter -18..-20C).
How would the varnish coats react to low temperatures? In other words, would it dry longer, would the drying under low temperatures produce some bumps/bubbles/etc.

I'm not sure what you're asking, exactly, but here are some suggestions based on my experience varnishing in a similar climate. The colder temps don't seem to have much effect on the quality of the finish.

Keep your work piece and your varnish indoors until you're ready to work. If the surface and the varnish are warm it doesn't matter a whole lot what the air temperature is except with respect to drying time.
Drying time will be slower. Water and solvents don't evaporate at the same rate in cooler air. My strategy is to work outside and move the piece indoors after an hour or so. You'll still have some odor in the house, but not nearly as much as if you'd do the work inside.
If you leave the work piece outside, plan for drying to take three to ten times longer.


Converting outlets in 3 3/4 boxes to GFCI Have 4 outlets in one box and 2 outlet box with a light switch that measure about 3 3/4". Have to convert to GFCI. Are there any other options for faceplates to fit the existing boxes or will I have to remove the boxes and redrywall? Or, is there another solution?

If the box is not deep enough, as sometimes happen, get a "box extension". If it's a finished room with the boxes embedded in the wall, try a "surface conduit starter box".

If it's simple, industrial style surface mount metal box, you want either a "4x4 box extension" and/or a 2-gang mud ring, as needed to provide depth.   Then you use any common Decora faceplate. Do not use dome faceplates, unless absolutely necessary, because this.

There is no earthly reason you should need to shop for these online. Most home improvement stores will have most or all of this; a local electrical supply will be able to hand it to you in 30 seconds (and be cheaper lol).

Remember you only need one GFCI device per circuit.  The GFCI protection can be passed on to other plain outlets, if they are connected to the GFCI's Load terminals.

If you do not intend to avail yourself of this feature, do not use the Load terminals at all - leave the "For Wizards Only" warning tape on them.  Load terminals are not for onward connections (unless you mean to protect them obviously).

And especially, do not waste GFCIs by connecting the Line inputs of one GFCI to the Load outputs of another. That is sheer silliness and will create real complications when you try to reset them after a trip.


Can I direct wire an under the counter light into the LOAD terminals of a kitchen GFCI outlet? I have two kitchen outlets on a 20 amp breaker.  I got some IKEA under cabinet lights and I am wondering if I can use the other LOAD slots for the light.

Nope -- kitchen receptacle circuits need to stick to kitchen receptacles

You'll have to run the lights on a different circuit to meet Code, as putting lighting on a kitchen small appliance branch circuit violates NEC 210.52(B) (in particular, 210.52(B)(2)).  Note that "outlet" by itself in the NEC means any place where power is supplied to a device (whether it's a luminaire, a receptacle, or a piece of hardwired equipment), not just receptacles.

  (B) Small Appliances.

  (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry,
  breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling
  unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch
  circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and
  floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all counter-top outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for
  refrigeration equipment.

  Exception No.1: In addition to the required receptacles
  specified by 210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a
  general-purpose branch circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1),
  Exception No.1, shall be permitted.

  Exception No.2: The receptacle outlet for refrigeration
  equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater.

  (2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance
  branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no
  other outlets.

  Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and support of an electric clock in any of
  the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1).

  Exception No.2: Receptacles installed to provide power
  for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired
  ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.


Why cant my screws for the electrical box attached to the aluminum siding? Im putting a new all weatherproof single gang electrical box on my garage (40 yrs old) with sometime of cork frame backing. When i screwed it in it just kept on turning regardless if i had increase the screw size. It isn't catching (like putting it into stucco). There was an old one on there that had a 12 and 14 gauge illegal connection and the box was also loose. What would you recommend a particular anchor for this or just drill it through 1 1/2" and put a machine screw with a Nut on the inside of the garage ( not sure if that is code). Also because the electrical box wont lay flat due to the two brackets that protrude out (thus making it impossible to be flushed), should i add two more brackets (four in all) so that it would be somewhat flush against the siding? I don't want to put a wall mount behind it. Appreciate your help. By the way inside the garage it is like a silver paper backing.  the material looks like this - similar to a plaster with a white substance and silver backing

You need longer screws that will bite into the base siding or find a stud. Aluminum sideing is very thin and will not hold well even with larger screws. Since this is a garrage and you mention silver paper backing if that is the only thing behind the sideing you may need to add a nailer between 2 studs to support the box.


Going from conduit to NM in new framed wall (commercial) I'm framing up an office inside a warehouse using 2x4 lumber. There is a framed wall against an existing side wall of the warehouse. Along the existing wall is conduit and two boxes with receptacles. I was going to remove the entire thing, but one of these boxes is also a junction box that leads to the lighting. I need to remove at least one of the boxes (because it's in the way of a stud), and so I'd like to run new wire through the new framed wall (NM).

However, I'm not sure how to transition (any of) the wiring from the panel at the back wall (which will not have a new framed wall around it) to the new framed walls.

The run to the lighting connects here:

Here you can see where the conduit continues to the panel, and the box that needs to be removed. I need to build a last framed wall section in that corner, but the conduit is in the way (I don't want to notch the studs, particularly the last stud).

How can I run NM through the studs and properly transition to connect to the panel?

Note: as I understand it, I can't have receptacles in the wall like that, so I'll be removing it and replacing the junction box with a cover. But it's still not accessible once drywalled, so I'm not sure if that's to code or not.

"In the way of a stud" implies a heck of a lot more stud consistency than is actually required in a (pretty clearly) non-load-bearing wall, for one thing. But if you feel you must, if there's no wire into the wall from that box, you can reposition the box by pulling out the wire, cutting the conduit and using a conduit coupling to shift the position of the box along the conduit by the amount you cut off. Of course, at that point you need new wires on whichever side got longer in that event, since you would otherwise need an accessible junction box where the box you want to move was.

NM cable is generally not allowed in commercial, for another.

And junction boxes cannot be covered up, period. They can, however, be extended to the face of the wall (look at box extension rings, they clip to the box like a cover at one end, and take the box cover at the other end. Alternatively, there are standard access panels to install in drywall and give more working room (if the wires won't come out to the face of an extended box, you once again need new longer wires that will. A panel makes the original non-extended box accessible.)

Personally, I'd suggest getting comfortable with bending EMT - it's not hard, and it's got some advantages over MC in my opinion (you can pull wires as needed, for the most obvious point.) MC may be an easier concept if you think like NM but need to work commercial, but in many cases EMT will also come out cheaper all told.


Why are some submersible well pumps wired with solid and others stranded? I was helping a friend change his deep water well pump which is rated at 220 volts AC,3/4 H.P. Most of these I have seen are wired with three yellow wires that run from the pump to the pump switch on the water tank that are stranded. His was wired with three yellow stranded wires that were rated for the same voltage from the pump up to the top of the casing, where they installed the pump switch and used a coiled water tubing to connect to the pit-less adaptor to work the switch. From the switch they ran a 220 line underground, grey color, solid, three wire to the fuse box inside the house.

Which wire is better for this use? Solid or Stranded?

The biggest difference in solid and stranded is the flexibility of stranded.  It is easier to pull and bend.  One does not handle more amperage or voltage than the other, unless you get into fine stranded cable like a battery or welder, which are not used as building wire.


Why is my furnace blower running at low speed? My Payne gas furnace (PG8UAA 42091) automatically shuts down after it lights and burns for two minutes. It then gives a 33 fault code. I've done some research and some testing and have narrowed the problem down to the limit switch, but I don't think the switch is bad. Here's the sequence:

Furnace gets call for heat.
The induction motor begins running.
The blower motor also begins running, but at low rpm.
The ignitor glows.
The gas kicks on and is lit by the ignitor.
The furnace operates for two minutes or so before it shuts down.
The gas is shut off and the induction motor stops running while the blower motor continues to run at low rpms.

I've checked all the common reasons for this sequence (dirty filter, blocked vents, bad limit switch, etc.), none of which apply. I've tested the limit switch. It has 27 volts at either of the two connectors when the second test lead is grounded to the furnace and 0 volts across the two connectors. Until the furnace shuts down, and then there are 27 volts across the two limit switch connectors. Which I interpret to mean the switch is working as intended.

I have seen no discussion of this anywhere, but I think my problem is related to the blower motor. I don't think the blower motor is running at a high enough rpm to supply enough cold air to the plenum. As a result, the heat in the plenum builds until it triggers the limit switch and shuts the system down. What I don't understand and, therefore, don't know how to fix, is why the blower motor runs, but doesn't kick up to a higher rpm when the gas ignites.

In the past, when the furnace was working properly, you could hear the blower kick up to a much higher and more forceful rpm to distribute the heat around the house. Can you tell me why my blower runs at lower rpm (smoothly and quietly), but does not kick up to the higher rpm when it's supposed to? What should I look for? What do I need to test?

Your furnace is shutting down on limit. There can be a number of causes for this.

Start by making sure you have a clean filter in the furnace. A dirty or restrictive filter can cause this issue. Alternatively you could also have a dirty or plugged up A/C evaporator coil which is located above your furnace. This can also cause a furnace to cycle off on high limit, however is uncommon unless you have run your furnace without a filter for prolonged periods of time. Also if you have a high efficiency furnace, there is more of a chance to have the secondary heat exchanger plug up rather than the A/C coil.

You can also have a blower motor issue. The motor can be faulty or seizing up causing it to not spin fast enough to move enough air through the furnace. Another cause may be that you have a faulty limit that is opening prematurely.

The major issue that can cause this problem is a heat exchanger issue. If your furnace is cycling off on high limit, and everything checks out, you may have an internal blockage of the heat exchanger. If this is the case either the heat exchanger or the furnace will need to be replaced. A combustion analysis of the furnace is required to prove this is the issue.

If you happen to have a 2 stage high efficiency furnace you could have a bad ventor motor gasket which is allowing air to be drawn in behind the motor. Big cracks in the condensate collector pan can also cause this but is very uncommon. You can also have the a two stage gas valve high fire solenoid stuck open, but this is also very uncommon and can only happen on 2 stage furnaces. Also if you have a bryant, payne, or carrier high efficiency, you could have a cold spot baffle leakage that is allowing air to be drawn in between the primary and secondary heat exchanger however this is also very uncommon.

If you think your blower is not spinning fast enough you may also have a bad blower motor, or if an ecm motor, the control board may be bad. If its a fixed speed motor and your getting power to it but its not spinning fast enough it could possibly be a bad blower motor. If you decide to change out the blower motor, make sure to get the appropriate replacement capacitor to go with it. I actually did have the same issue on an older carrier high efficiency furnace a few weeks back. It ended up being a bad blower motor, however the motor spun freely and had no indications of seizing or hard starting.


How do I prevent harmonic resonance hum in PVC vent of newly installed hot water heater? I just had a new power vented water heater installed (HTProducts Phoenix Light Duty) in our crawlspace. The contractor that put it in used part of the existing 3" concentric vent from the furnace we removed used.

The issue is as the exhaust fan gets up to higher speed a loud hum starts in the vent that sounds a bit like a (albeit quiet) fog horn. This noise is nothing like the fan noise close to the water heater. It's low frequency and loud enough to annoy us in our bedroom on the second floor and most likely our neighbor.

I am fairly certain the issue is to do with some kind of natural harmonic happening in the exhaust vent and this is reinforced in that if you momentarily cup your hand over the vent exhaust (blocking the air flow) the hum stops and it goes back to the quiet expected noise for maybe 10-20 seconds, sometimes longer, depending on what the fan is doing then.

Has anyone come across this or have a solution? Total length of pipe isn't really an option as we can't move the water heater position though the length of where the smaller pvc pipe from the water heater exhaust joins into the 3" may be.

EDIT
Thanks for the suggestions. Further info: The fan is built into the water heater unit and as it is new and is controlled by the water heater cpu and I don't want to void the warranty messing with the fan is out. The manufacturer said they haven't heard of this. Based on the noise and feeling the vent pipe I think the standing wave is caused by the fan beating the air and there is minimal vibration on the vent itself. Also the hvac guy that put it in has three ninety degree angles in the 2inch pipe before it goes into the 3inch which then goes straight outside.

UPDATE
So after installing 3inch pvc pipe the whole way from the water heater to the concentric vent and still being puzzled at the hum the contractor started going back over everything and after adjusting the combustion mix it appears the hum was caused by too lean a mix.

Couple options come to mind:

Change the fan.
Change the fan speed.
Change the fan connection to the vent.
Dampen the vent.
Change the size or length of the vent.

If you can't or don't want to change the fan, then try dampening the vent by clamping it somewhere to the building structure and possibly adding some padding or pipe insulation where it makes those connections. This changes the resonance length without changing the actual length of the pipe.

If dampening the vent doesn't work, then you can change the length of the vent. You mention that you can't make it shorter, but perhaps you can make it longer, or larger. Check the manufacturers requirements on the maximum length, number of elbows, minimum size, and required slope before making any changes like this.


Why does my receptacle tester read open ground in my new outlet in a plastic box? I live in Georgia. My new outlet is in a plastic box and  runs from a plastic junction box. The receptacle tester reads open ground even though I attached the copper ground wire to the ground screw. How do I find the ground problem with this outlet?

It reads open because it IS open!
A typical outlet tester, or as Harper calls it, Magic 8-ball, shows Open Ground if it can complete a circuit (i.e., current flows) between Hot & Neutral but can't complete a circuit between Hot & Ground. Since (provided things aren't messed up really bad) this indicates Hot & Neutral are both connected, the logical assumption is "Open Ground".
However, this is not a guarantee. There could be other wacky combinations of broken conductors, reversed conductors, messed up connections, etc. that could show the same light pattern. But assuming for the moment that Open Ground is correct, which is very likely the case, there are a few possibilities:

First of all, plastic has little or nothing to do with this. In fact, if you had a metal box and metal conduit then you would likely have a good ground connection even if the ground wire wasn't connected. That is because metal boxes + metal conduit can form a legitimate grounding path without any wires involved. So plastic doesn't hurt anything here, but they don't help solve the problem either.

Receptacle - Unlikely, but easy to test. Disconnect power and use a multitester to check for continuity between the ground screw and the ground hole on the receptacle. If it is good then you know the problem is not the receptacle. If it is bad, replace it.

Cable - Unlikely, but if there has been any damage to the cable then it is possible the ground wire is broken. I would (carefully) strip a little more of the outer part of the cable off to make sure the ground wire isn't pinched and barely holding on (e.g., if it got nicked when stripping the cable originally).

The other end of the cable - This is the most likely source of the problem. This could be another receptacle or could be all the way back to the panel. If it is another receptacle, see if that receptacle tests correctly. At each location, all grounds should be connected together. At the main panel, grounds & neutral are connected together.

At each location, you should have very low (or 0) voltage & very low (or 0) resistance between the ground wire and neutral wire. Similarly, you should have ~ 120V between hot & ground (same as between hot & neutral) - which is essentially what the outlet tester is testing.
There is one more interesting twist here, which might legitimately cause an "Open Ground": GFCI without ground. Because GFCI takes care of many of the same safety issues that a ground wire helps solve, it is legal in some situations to retrofit GFCI on an ungrounded circuit without running a ground wire. In those situations, any downstream receptacles are supposed to be labelled that they do not have ground. But if they weren't labelled then they would test as "Open Ground" but still be protected from ground faults.


O-Rings vs. Washers for Garden Hoses? Hose sealers seem to be typically sold in a combo pack  with two types.  When are garden-hose washers used and when are the O-rings appropriate?  I've been kind of winging it with my own hoses, depending upon which seems to fit better.  Is there more to the logic than that?  Pictures would be particularly helpful.

Actually there is an o-ring that works far better than those typical flat or squared edge washers - it has a larger diameter (fatter) and seals better than anything I’ve ever used.

Walmart has them as well as many other retailers.

Part # 853814-1001 50381


Backstab outlet with one wire screwed in? I'm replacing an outlet in my bedroom, and as soon as I opened it up I noticed there is the normal bare ground wire, two pairs of wires going into a backstab outlet, and then a single wire connected by screw. This is not connected to any switch or light or anything. The new outlet is not a backstab, got it from Wal-Mart. My question is, how should I hook this up? I'm assuming i can't connect two wires to one screw. Also there are three white wires and two black, one of the three white wires is the one on the side. Thabks for any help.

You should use either side-screws, or backstabs, but not both at once.  And you should never use backstabs, according to many of us!  I just had to deal with a broken switch where the backstab was the core cause.

If you really need to connect 3 wires, you can pigtail.

Or, consider the $3 "screw-and-clamp" types such as Leviton that are sold at home-improvement stores and electrical supply.   They look like backstabs except the holes are directly aligned with the screws.  Aside from using the screws the normal way, you can screw down to clamp 1 or 2 wires in the holes behind the screw. So with two screws, you can connect up to 4 wires per side.


What product or method to waterproof an underground concrete-bottomed water cistern? I have an existing 42" diameter x 11' deep underground water cistern installed in my backyard that I am starting to use for irrigation. It has HDPE walls and poured concrete bottom. There is no waterproofing applied to it, and so water stored in it slowly seeps into the ground until it reaches 6' full, which appears to be the height of the groundwater.

However, when pumped dry, the tank starts filling up with water immediately, and after about an hour fills to its maximum fill height of 6'. Thus, I can't pump the tank dry to use most waterproofing chemicals, which ask for the concrete to be dry.

What can I do to waterproof the tank?
Potability, while not required (this is an irrigation cistern), would be nice in case I needed to ever drink this water in a SHTF situation.

From the potability standpoint I think you will want to definitely plan to have high performance hand operated water filter unit available to filter any water you would try to drink from this tank. Check at a place like REI to find a filter like the type used by canoeists when they make trips on rivers and lakes and filter lake water for drinking.

It seems to me that it is going to be very difficult to get this tank dry enough to seal it. One way that may work is to dig down five or six holes that are  about a foot in diameter to a depth of maybe 13 to 14 feet deep (i.e. a good amount below the existing concrete tank floor). Then insert a sump type pump into the bottom of each hole that pumps out accumulated water as fast as it can accumulate. You would want to spill the pumped water out in the street or rain sewer so as to carry the water away from your cistern area. It is possible that this could lower the water table near the tank bottom enough to keep it dry for a period of time.

Of course you would want to do this at a time of the year when there has been little or no rain for a goodly length of time.


Options for in-floor receptacles when finishing concrete basement I'm in the process of adding a floor to our basement, using the Building Science recommendations (1" of foam insulation covered by 2 layers of 15/32" plywood, covered by some sort of playroom flooring.  I'd like to at least have the option of running power to the center of the room in the future, so I was thinking of running some ENT under the plywood, but not actually wiring anything.  However, I'm not sure what sort of receptacle would be appropriate, eventually, and if I should put a box in place for the future.

I can find two types of boxes that are rated for floors, and neither seem appropriate in this case.  One type is specifically for installing into wood floors, assuming you have access to the floor from below, and the other type assumes that you're pouring concrete and will be pouring the box around the concrete.  Both are far deeper than I'd be able to fit anyway without chiseling out some concrete, and even then the openings for conduit are placed in such a way hat I'd have to chisel out even more concrete.

Am I missing something here, or is adding a floor receptacle to an already existing foundation not realistic?

I have put in quite a few concrete rated boxes, I like metal over the plastic ones and conduit is the way to go. If you want data there are cover plates for that and of corse the power receptacles. There are larger boxes but I usually recommend deep single gang because the proper cover plates are “reasonable” with that said a deep single gang box rated for concrete 30-40$ with a brass cover with 2 screw or flip up covers (I prefer screws as the flip up covers break).

When I set boxes in concrete I usually use a chunk of styrofoam inside the box and cover the opening with duct tape 2-3 layers, I use rigid conduit and tie the box /conduit to the rebar. When finishing I make sure I work the cream enough I can see the outline of the box just below the surface. Once the concrete is set it is easy to chip the thin surface coat of concrete. If the box is slightly recessed it won’t be a problem code wise but be careful when clearing the green concrete from the screw tabs (the concrete is easy to cut just after set but not fully cured)

If you let the concrete fully cure it is still not difficult to open a box that is sealed. Start in the center and chip it up with a hammer and chisel, as you get to the end of the box use light sideways blows not in the center at the ends you don’t want to damage the tabs the screws thread into usually a tap on either side and then pull up on the tape will break enough to expose the tabs.
Remove the styrofoam and any concrete that might have leaked into the box (this is why I recommend a styrofoam block to fill the box just in case.

Now you can pull your wire and install the device and cover plate.
My last house I put in power for my theater seats and another for an air hockey table, if I did it again I would have dedicated 1 box at the seating area for wired surround sound as the wireless ones were a PITB.


Screw with two grooves? Hi there: this screw from my bathroom vanity handle has broken. I'm curious about the two grooves that you might be able to see on the remaining screw. Do they serve any purpose? Should I be trying to find a replacement that offers those two grooves? Or are they not necessary?

Those are called breakaway machine screws or just breakaway screws.

They come in handy when installing cabinet hardware (handles/knobs etc.) in materials that differ in thickness or you don't know the thickness. As you have seen, they are also used in many other applications such as bathroom hardware.

The slits in the thread make it easier to adjust the size of the screw to the application without messing up the threads.

Hold the head of the screw in pliers/vise etc. And use another pair of pliers just past the slit on the threads you don't need... Bend the slit up and down and snap.... The piece you don't need breaks off and the thread is still good on the part you need.

You could also just use lineman pliers to cut the screw at the slit of the length you need.

Do you need them? No, you could just match the length and thread type and get that screw. But if you have to cut non breakaway screws, you can mess the thread up and it wont grab the object you are securing. I would personally get the breakaway screws.


What screw length for screwing down stair treads into stringers? My stairs are old and squeak and I would like to screw them down and plug the holes. My question is what length screw should I go with? They are about an inch thick. The stringers are old as it's antique so I guess I was concerned not to go too long, I'm not sure if that can affect the strength of the stringer.

Drill pilot holes (with a slightly smaller diameter than the screws' root diameter).  Use screws that are between 2 and 4 inches long.  Deck screws are available in this size range, and are used for this purpose on deck stairs.

Drilling pilot holes will help prevent splitting the wood of the stringers.

Stringers are often made of dimensional lumber, so they are often only about 4" thick at their thinnest points.


How to fix gap between carpet and wall to prevent rodent? Our condo is located in a forest/mountain area and we have suffered some rodent issues lately. We have two stories, and bedrooms are located downstairs. As I sleep at night, I often hear sound of rodents running around and scratching wood floor upstairs. The other day I think I found the gap where rodents can get into our condo. As shown in the picture, there are gaps between carpet and dry wall along the stairs, and gaps look pretty big for rodents to get in (but I am still not sure if this is the case).

If this seems like where the rodent can get into our condo, what would be a fix here? How can I block or seal this gap completely?

Thanks!

When the management company sent a pest control specialist out to our apartment to deal with mice, he stuffed coarse steel wool or wire mesh into any little crevasses like that he could find. He claimed the mice couldn't chew through it, didn't like the feel of it. Not a great permanent solution, but maybe a good first try?


Bathroom and hallway lights keep turning off I wonder if any one can give me some advice. We have been having problems with our bathroom and hallway lights. If hall way light is on and you then turn on bathroom light to go in bathroom. Bathroom light turns on but after a minute or so bathroom light turns off.

If I go out side bathroom  and try switching off and on bathroom light nothing happens. If I turn off hallway light then try switching bathroom light on, bathroom light will turn on again fine. But then hallway light won't turn on.  If I turn off bathroom light hallway light still won't turn on. But if leave for a while both lights will turn on.

It also happens the other way round too. So If I have bathroom light on and turn hallway light on after a while hallway light turns off if I turn off bathroom light I can some times get hallway light to turn back on

What could be the problem. I don't think it's the bulbs. The bulb in both lights are fairly new and have tested both in different lights and they work fine.

Could it be the switch.  Both the bathroom and hallway lights are on same switch, or could one of the lights be shorting the other or is it more likely a wiring problem. Any advice before I call out a electrician.

Bathroom light is like a square box on ceiling  and hallway light is a normal pendant light hanging from ceiling with a energy efficient bulb in it.

Any advice much appreciated
Thanks in advance

If I had this problem the first thing I would do is to check to see if the switches in this application are wired with back stab connections. This type of connection can become unreliable and intermittent. They can be sensitive to vibrations, temperature and even current flow through the wires. Here is what back stab connections look like:

Picture Source

If you have connections like that you should take steps to replace the switches with new ones that have the wires properly installed under the screw terminals like this:

Picture Source

Several things to note:

There are some types of switches that have screw tightened clamp terminals for the wires. With these the wires enter from the back and then the screw is tightened to secure the wire. These are fine to use as well.
The switches shown in the pictures do not show ground wires connected. Your new switches will most likely also have a green screw for a safety ground connection and you should also provide for this.
When working with the switches and open electrical boxes make sure to turn off the circuit breaker that feeds power to this lighting circuit.
Double check any wires for power present with a non-contact electrical tester to make sure that wiring is deenergized before touching or working with connections.
If you feel at all uncomfortable with doing DIY electrical work then do make an appointment with a professional electrician to come do the work for you.


How can I purge air from a baseboard heating system with the spigots on the wrong side? My (new) baseboard heating system is causing a racket, and I've been trying to figure out a way to properly purge the air from it. Following the flow of water through one zone of my four-zone system, it goes:

Furnace output → Circulating pump → Expansion tank → Hand valve (A) → Thermostat-controlled valve → Spigot (A) → Radiators throughout house → Hand valve (B) → Water main input → Spigot (B) → Furnace input.

I've been trying to figure out a way that I can force the air in the pipes out with new water from the main. If there were a spigot right before hand valve (B), for example, I could close hand valve (B), open the spigot right before it, and let the water pump through the system and out that spigot to purge the air. However, the spigot (A) is instead on the other side of the piping through the radiators.

I have read about using the pressure from the main line rather than the pump to purge the air, and I've also heard mention of "reverse purging" (which I suspect my system might be set up for, given that the spigots immediately follow the zone control valves). I'm still not sure what to do, though—any suggestions?

The hand valves and spigots near the furnace are for isolating and draining the zones to servicing the radiators. To bleed the system, you would find a bleed valve at a high point, often at each radiator. You may have to remove a cover to find it, and it may require a screwdriver or small wrench to operate the valve. Make sure to have some rags handy to cleanup any water that comes out. When you're finished, check the pressure in the system and add more water from the water main input if necessary.


Join wooden poles end to end I need some 16ft (5 meter) long 3 inch diameter ash poles that will be used for re-enactment pike shafts. They will eventually be tapered to 1.5 inches at one end.

For practical purposes however - mainly storage, transportation, cost and availability, a better option would be poles of half the length that can be joined together.

The join should be good enough to not cause an excessive bend when held horizontally, and not be too obvious if possible.

I can do basic to intermediate woodwork jobs so hopefully I’ll be able to do it, when I find out how!

What would be a good way to do this?

If you are going to be swinging this 2-part pike around like a weapon, there will be a lot of stress at the join.  It would be good to spread that stress out.

Obtain pipe the diameter of the 2 poles.  Iron pipe would be strong but harder to work.  PVC would be light and easy to work but less strong.  Copper is expensive but strong enough, easy to drill and looks cool.
Cut a length of pipe approx. 30 cm.
Slide pike shafts in top and bottom of pipe so they meet in the middle.
Tape shafts in place so they stay put when you drill.
Drill hole thru and thru pipe and shaft.  In one side and out the other.  You could actually make 4 holes in the pipe so each pike shaft has 2.
Thread bolt thru each hole and fix on far side with a nut.

This will be robust for swinging around in your re-enactments because the pipe spreads stress over a large section of shaft.  It will be easy to break down.


How grout entire floor without disturbing the grout? It's my first time grouting a floor (5x9' bathroom).  The tiles are 2" hex.
I figured I would only be able to do half the floor at a time to avoid disturbing the grout when it's soft.  Is this true, or is there a good way to do the whole thing at once?

You need to start at the furthest corner from your exit path and work your way out. Grout the entire floor at the same time or you may see color differences where you stopped then started again. Mix all the grout as a single batch (that is a fairly small area, it should not be too difficult).

Use your grout float to remove as much excess as possible as you work. I keep several buckets of water and several sponges and do a quick damp "dirty" sponge to the grouted areas as I work. You can use a spray bottle to give a slight misting to completed areas if you are concerned that you cannot work quickly enough. Cover unused grout in the bucket with plastic wrap, you can use this to repair any grout lines accidentally disturbed during the next steps.

When complete, let it set for 15/30 minutes then proceed with your sponging. It is important that you keep a "dirty" sponge and bucket (initial wipe), and a "clean" sponge and bucket ("clean" wipe). Wring out and rinse sponges after each wipe, and change water frequently.

Let it set overnight, then do a "haze sponging". Mix a small amount of vinegar (or muriatic acid) with clean water in a bucket and sponge the entire floor to remove remaining grout "haze".


Replacing water damaged Cresdeck D-3 I own a manufactured home and I need to replace some subflooring due to water damage.

The current subflooring has a stamp on it, saying it is "Cresdeck D-3".

I have some rookie questions to ask:

What would be a suitable replacement for this?

Does subflooring typically have a standard thickness?

The subflooring that needs to be replaced is next to the water heater and the washer, is there a good product to paint the replacements with so that future/potential water damage can be minimized?

here a common construction is 1/2 or 5/8" plywood or more recently 23/32 OSB.  Both are often rough.  Next layer in cheap construction is some form of particle board, then carpet over that.  This, especially if done with cheap carpet is the lowest cost way to do a floor.

This substrate is also ok for laminate floors.

If you want to put down vinyl sheet flooring you need to upgrade the surface to something smoother, although there are now loose lay vinyls (thicker, stiffer) that do just fine on an OSB floor.

If you want to put down tile (I like tile for areas that get wet) then you need a thicker foundation to lay tile on.  In my laundry I bent the rules and used that same 23/32 OSB on the 5/8 plywood first layer giving me 1 3/8" total sub floor on 12" spaced joists.  The OSB got 2 coats of white paint to seal it, then I laid 12" tiles on it in a running bond pattern.  The floor has been zero problem now for 14 years.  (Tile doenn't bend.  Easy bend test.  Put a pie pan of water on the floor.  shine a flashlight on the pan from some supported point.  Look at the refected spot.  Now walk.  If the spot goes crazy, you need to consider a different flooring option.  Repeat the test at a friends house who has a tiled floor.  See the difference.

Your best solution would be to replace the soggy bits with exterior grade plywood, then use a water resistant top layer such as loose lay vinyl secured at the edges with double sided carpet tape, and a bead of silicone caulk on the perimeter of the room.

A cheaper solution would be to use 90 day exterior rated OSB, and a decent brand of vinyl plank floor.


How should I add a second level to a closet? I would like to separate a closet into two levels for storage. The closet is 55" by 55" with 8' ceilings. I would like the second level to cut this in half at a height of 4'.

I was originally thinking of using 4" x 4" fence post in each corner then using plywood as the floor material. But I do not have the experience to design the structure to be able to support the heavy loads with confidence. I would like to avoid a vertical support beam that would block storage.

Can someone offer some suggestions? I would like to safely hold a few thousand pounds to be on the safe side.

Thanks!

You would be able to mount a 2X6 ledger on 3 sides of the wall with 2 SDS screws in each stud, figuring it is wood framing at 16" on center. A 2X6 across the door and another across the center to break the span in the center and a piece of 3/4" plywood over it all ought to hold anything you choose.

2X4s would be strong enough but there is not enough mass around the screws and spacing between them in the 3 1/2" face to make it strong enough in my opinion. Use screws with joists hangers to hold the center 2X6. You could use 2X6s in the center 16" apart if you choose.


What lower-profile options do I have to replace a triple 2x12 beam? I am removing a center post on my patio cover to create a clear span of 15'. The current beam is 2 2x8s with three 4x4 posts. I have had a engineer friend calculate the load for the roof (pic attached). His recommendation is to replace the beam with 3 2x12s to support the roof loads and eliminate the middle post. Posts will become 6x6s.
My question is: What would be a suitable beam replacement for the suggested 3 2x12s? My goal is to find something that will be less tall than the 11-1/4" of the 2x12 beam since the existing patio cover beam is pretty low.
My thought is a wood I-joist or LVL, but I haven't worked with them before and am having trouble finding specs.
Thank you.

You can do it with LVL.
Grabbing the first LVL spec sheet I came across (Boise Cascade, from https://www.bc.com/versa-lam-lvl-span-size-chart/), I find a Versa-Lam LVL 2.1E 3100 has an allowable bending stress of 3100 psi. That will get you above the 2930 psi from your friend's calculations. So let's start there.
That LVL comes in (among other sizes) 3.5" x 7.25", which is really close to your existing doubled 2x8. In fact, it's enough bigger that it'll give you I (=bh3/12)) of 111.1 in4, up from the 90.4 in4 of your current beam.
Bending
So then your bending stress (fb=MC/I) becomes (74390 * 3.625)/111.1 = 2426.2 psi. That's below the 2930 psi allowable, so that will work.
Shear
The allowable shear for that LVL is 4821 pounds -- well above the 1725 pounds that you need to carry.
Deflection
The LVL also has a higher modulus of elasticity (E) than typical dimensional lumber, but will have a smaller I than the triple 2x12, so let's check.
Deflection = 5WL4/384EI = 5 * 20 * 172.54 / 384 * 2,000,000 * 111.1 = 1.04 inches. That's slightly over the 0.96 inches allowed. You could go up one size (to a 3.5 X 9.25 or to a 5.25 x 7.25) and that would get the deflection back under 0.96 inches.


Can I bolt over an existing ledger board? I am rebuilding my pergola and all that remains of the previous structure is the 2x10 ledger board, which is bolted through the fascia into what I assume must be the brick wall behind.Taking the thing off will be hard - it's on there pretty good.

Assuming that the existing board itself is sound (so far it appears to be) is there a good reason not to keep it in place and use it to anchor a new (and actually lighter) structure? Would it be preferable to bolt a new board through the existing one?

When a thing is built well, it should be hard to dismantle.

If the existing ledger board is level, sound, and properly connected, I can't see any reason why not to reuse it.


How can I plug my 3 prong dryer into a 4 prong receptacle? My dryer blew up  and there is no chance of repair —  it was pretty old anyway. I found a used dryer and brought it home.  Unfortunately, the cord don't match the receptacle. I Need to know if there are adapters for this or is there an easy DIY solution?

You'll simply have to purchase a 4 prong dryer cord, which can be found at any local hardware store or big box store.

Then follow the dryer manufacturers installation instructions for connecting a 4 prong plug.
Most dryers will be wired similarly to the one described in this answer, though it could vary a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer.


Can I use #12 wire to connect switches for 30A motors? I am wiring boat lift motors I'm starting at a 60 amp subpanel. I have a 30 amp e gfci breaker then about an 80 foot run to the lift motors. I have 10 gauge wire for that 80 foot run then into a switch box for the motors. can I drop down to 12 gauge wire for the switches and finish the runs to the motors in 12 gauge or do I have to maintain 10 gauge throughout the run to the motors.

Factory lift switches are typically 10ga stranded. You got a lot of heat out there, just stick to 10. The 12 will work, but you'll end up killing your motor capacitors by the end of the first season or two.


Is armoured/metallic BX cable required for exposed wire in basement ceiling? [In Ontario, Canada]
I have a "furnace room" (it's a room that contains my furnace, and also washer / dryer, water softener and water heater). Recently I had the furnace replaced and the contractor used the armoured/metallic BX cable for wiring the switch for it:

I also have this wiring:

Exposed NM cable doesn't seem right, but it's at ceiling height (~8 ft), safe from flooding and out of the way, and it's been like that for as long as I can remember, without much issue.
Should that exposed NM cable be replaced with BX cable? I'm assuming it's not code, as the furnace contractors probably wouldn't have spent the extra time and money using BX for the furnace switch if it were. Searching online I didn't find anything conclusive about it.

They have more flexibility in how the AC is installed than if they'd used NM.
For example, in most areas, the NM-B cable you have stapled to the bottom of your joists is not allowed; it should be running through the joists like the other one.  I wouldn't suggest changing it; it just doesn't meet today's standard.
But if that NM-B on the bottom of the joists were AC, it would pass an inspection.
The HVAC contractor would probably rather carry one box of AC than several different materials to minimize material costs but taking up more room in their van, or causing more trips to the supply house and running up miles & hours.


How to level two floors? I have two rooms with different floor level
The wall is removed so now I need the floors to be all level.

The higher floor has plywood
Should I try to put 2x4 and nail into concrete foundation and level with shims then plywood?

Or is there a proper way to do this without messing up the foundation and still not level?

Yep, as long as you don't have a door threshold that would be a very likely trip hazard, your plan is almost right. Of course, it would be best to remove any surface reason possible in the high room. However, that floor is tongue & groove 2x4's and may be a ceiling for a room below (as seen in the sunlight areas of your picture)...so, don't screw with it.

Conversely yes, in the low room you'd build a stud frame to mimic joists and then plywood it to match the other room's elevation. Although, there's no need to nail it down nor glue it as the high room's floor edge and the walls would keep it tightly in place...your frame would be the same as a stud wall with a top and bottom plate securing the studs/joists.


Can I install 3-way switches using two 14/2 cables with another switch for a separate light? There are 2 boxes. Box 1 has the source power and box 2 has an unrelated second switch and fixture. Here is a diagram of what I am working with. Is it possible to have a 3-way using this setup?

The installer thought they could use 2 cables to get 4 conductors.  Not allowed per 300.3(B) due to AC magnetic effects (the same thing that makes transformers work that makes it even possible for the general public to have electric power.)
Use smart switches which use either wireless or powerline signaling, such as Intsteon... and then you can do this.

Black = always-hot
White = neutral
Red = switched-hot 1
Blue = switched-hot 2
You don't have to use colored tape to designate conductor by function, but it's cheap and it makes boxes a lot less confusing.