How do I correct variations in stain color/density? I have stained a desk top and where the stain crosses over the slightly earlier application there is a dark mark. There's no finish on top of the stain. The wood was prepared properly for the stain but when the stain was applied across the large surface when you go from one area to the next there's a crossover and that created a dark area or darker stain.

Should I take it all back down to the bare wood and start again or can I re-stain it trying to make the entire surface dark? Your thoughts?

That sounds like what we call "water marking", which is an unsightly doubling of color where the brush strokes overlap.  Typically it's what happens when you don't apply your subsequent passes of stain soon enough. Your best bet is to remove the strain with a cabinet scraper and resand. I've heard of wetting the whole area with mineral spirits first, to prevent this but I've never actually tried it myself. Just work quickly and maintain a wet edge and you should be fine, or better yet switch to gel stain which is much less susceptible to this problem.


How do I apply foam board insulation behind a new recessed shelf in an exterior wall? I want to make a recessed shelving in a exterior wall.
When i took out the drywall, I found no insulation between the studs.
Before I place the shelving parts, I want to put some insulation first ( I live in the Bay Area). I bought from lowes foil faced foam board (insulfoam r-tech) because it looks much easier to install than other insulation, and it is thinner and will not take much space. after a lot of reading, I am still confused:
1) do I need to put a Vapor barrier before the foam board? .
2) should I push the foam board tight against the exterior wall or leave a air gap.
3) Also, the foam has metallic foil on one side only. Should the foil side face the interior of the room, or the outside?,
4)should I fill the gaps between the stud and the foam with caulk?
5) when I took out the drywall, I did not find any insulation in between the studs. However there's is a thin black fabric sheet between the exterior wall and the studs. Any idea what it could be for?

Thank you.

First of all, recessed shelving in exterior walls is not a great idea. You won't actually gain much space and the shelves will infringe on the space available to place insulation, run electrical lines, etc. I'd prefer doing this in an interior wall, or only on an exterior wall in a house with much thicker walls.

But if you want to proceed, here's how.

The black fabric sheet is probably tar paper. Your house is probably one of many in the bay area that for some bizarre reason was built with no structural sheathing and instead, tar paper and wood lath+stucco right over the studs. To insulate such walls without causing many terrible problems requires special attention to detail. Don't put in any dedicated vapor barriers. Almost no houses actually need them and they usually cause far more problems than they solve.

In your case, rigid foam boards are actually a reasonably good choice, provided you always follow these guidelines:

Leave a 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the foam and the tar paper--very important! This is an air gap to promote drying.
install the foam board such that the foil side is facing the tar paper. The foil side is a radiant barrier, and when it faces an air gap, it works and gives you a little better performance, especially in hot weather.
Scrupulously caulk or spray foam the edges of the foam board to the studs.

The foam board you have chosen is EPS--expanded polystyrene. It has about R-3.8 per inch. So if the boards are one inch thick and you install no other insulation, you will be adding about R-3.8 to the sections of the walls that are between the studs. If you did this for your whole house, assuming that 25% of the wall is actually studs @ R-1.2/inch, that would give your whole wall about R-3.9 (1.2*3.5*0.25)+(3.8*1*0.75), which is still really low. I would advocate using thicker foam or filling the remainder of the cavity between the foam and the new drywall with more insulation. Fiberglass or mineral wool batts or simply more foam would all be DIY options.


What is this electrical device in my basement? Is it something to do with the doorbell? House was built in 1947 if that helps.

That device is a telephone line fuse and surge protector device. The fuses are in line with each of the two telephone line legs. Inside there will be a spark gap to shunt possible lightning on the line to the third center GND wire on the one side.

These were common in the vintage days when most telephone service was delivered via open wires overhead on poles. These days they are mostly redundant now that most telephone service is delivered underground or may enter the premises through a telephone interface box. These boxes have the surge protections built right into the interface box.

These days when some folks that still use wired telephone service and also use that service to receive internet service via ADSL or DSL it would be necessary to evaluate the installation to see how the line surge protection is provided. If it is handled by one of these vintage style surge protectors it may be necessary replace devices like these with the more modern style interface box and surge protection to allow the ADSL/DSL signals to pass without attenuation.


What device can remotely close a water main? Trial run of http://meta.homeautomation.stackexchange.com/questions/17/are-questions-asking-for-home-automation-hardware-allowed, which got an overwhelmingly positive response. Answers must be detailed with real-life pros and cons.

I have a tradition of turning off the water to my house if I'm going to leave for more than a few days. Sometimes, though, I forget to do it, and it bugs me the whole time I'm gone. I'd like to be able to remotely turn the valve to the water main running into my house. The valve is a 'lever' type:

Requirements:

The water main is in my crawlspace, thus the device will likely have to deal with close-to-freezing temperatures. It shouldn't ever get warmer than about 60 degrees F (= 15.56 degrees C), though.
I must be able to manually adjust the valve without much hassle.
It will likely only be used about a dozen times a year at most
Must be remotely controllable from my iPhone, I don't really care how

Nice to have:

It'd be nice if it was battery powered. It's possible to run power to it, but it'd likely be a pain.
It'd be nice if it was HomeKit compatible (I'm already set up for that protocol), but I'm fine with nearly anything.
I'd really like something that manipulates the current valve, as I'm not much of a plumber and the idea of taking the current valve off and having high-pressure water spray all over me doesn't sound very fun.

Is there a device that meets these criteria?

So let's build your system.  For a remote water valve, try

https://www.fortrezz.com/water-valves/

Once you have that working, you'll need a Z-Wave controller.  I've had good luck with the SmartThings hub:

http://www.smartthings.com

And then you can just pair them and it will show up as a device you can control via the Smart Things web app.

Unfortunately it will require some pipe work.  To do it in a way that pushes the current valve back and forth would require some kind of finicky hardware, in my opinion.  I also don't have any sort of HomeKit idea on it, but this seems to be a fairly basic Z-Wave appliance so it should be fairly easy.  It also runs on 12V, it does say you can hook it up to a car battery, but I'm assuming you could jury-rig some sort of 8-cell AA-system to get it up to 12 volts.


Tandem Breaker is in half-off position. Unable to reset I recently bought a condo (2002 construction) and have no experience with electric systems. So please bear with me if I am using incorrect terms.

A few days ago, the plug point where the water kettle was connected stopped working. On the opposite wall of the kitchen, the microwave also stopped working. Both the kettle and microwave were connected to the lower plug points in the outlet. When this happened, I checked the circuit breaker box and only one half of the tandem breakers (circled in red) was in a kind of off position. (I say "kind of off" because the yellow circled breaker is in a "full off" position, but the red ones are not moving at all.)

When half of the red circled breaker tripped, the lower half of outlets stopped working. I switched the appliances to the upper half. (Stupid thing to do in hindsight). Now the top half of the outlets also tripped and both halves of the red circled breaker are stuck in this position. I am not able to reset them. I have removed all appliances from the two outlets it was powering.

1) Can someone please help me understand what is the problem? Like why did half the tandem breaker trip half way.
 2) How do I diagnose the problem and what do I need to do to fix this? (I am handy with fixing electronics, but have never done anything with electric appliances)
 3) What is this half tripped position called? I am not sure what to look for.

I would've gotten an electrician to look at, but I cannot have anyone come home till the COVID situation is done... my immuno-compromised mom stays with me.

Thank you for your time!

Breaker box - Red circled tripped breaker, yellow circled normal breaker switched off position

One of the two Outlets that tripped

It is tripped

The halfway position is the normal "tripped" position.

For more about what the breakers are generally, here.

To reset it, move it all the way to the "off" position, and then back to the "On" position. Don't make a habit of that.  Whatever you're doing to overload the breaker, stop doing that :)

Adapting from Euro power

You have 240V power on that side of the pond.  Here, we have 240V, however we center-split it (just like UK does on construction sites) giving us two "sides" of 120V. We use that for small appliances.  Unfortunately that includes kitchen appliances.

Now, let's have a word about US and EU appliances, particularly heat appliances.  In the EU (checks calendar, after Jan 31, yup) and Britain, appliances just use as much energy as they need for their job.  In the US, appliances are limited to 1500 watts, which is not really enough for a lot of jobs by EU standards.  However your breakers have an 1800W (120V x 15A) capacity, so it means you can't run 2 of them at once regardless!

So you either tripped it from running a Euro appliance or from running 2 things at once on the same half-circuit.

Two half-circuits

Remember how I said America splits the 240V to make 120V "legs"?  That circuit is a "Multi-wire branch circuit" which uses both "legs" to provide two half-circuits of 120V and 15 amps each.  Some of your receptacles (and possibly microwave) are on one half-circuit, and something else is on the other half-circuit.  If you can figure out which ones (an electrician can easily mark this for you), you can arrange your appliances so you have one big heat appliance on each one, and then you won't trip!


What to pay attention when putting flooring in the attic I have a cold attic meaning the insulation is on the bottom. I would like to put flooring here so that I can use this area as storage without abusing it.

What do I need to pay attention for this job?

There is already some kind of (a bit worn out) protection wrapping the insulation. Do I need to put anything else?
I prefer screws over nails just because it is faster. Is it the right choice or can screws snap off over time if the house is moving slightly?
Do I need to leave any space between the timber pieces in case they expand?

Right now it is winter in Sweden and this is how my attic looks!

Do I need to cover the insulation?
If there's a vapor barrier installed it'll be on the warm side. You can simply install flooring with nothing else over the insulation. I'd probably install a vertical board near the edges of the space to prevent items from falling off the floor and to prevent contact with the insulation.

Are screws appropriate?
Sure. Whatever is convenient. As this isn't a living space, squeaks from foot traffic aren't a real concern.

Do I need to leave any space between the timber pieces in case they expand?
I assume you're referring to the floor joists. No. What you may need to allow is a gap between your flooring boards, depending on what you use. Extreme heat in the summer could cause buckling. Follow manufacturer recommendations.


NEC code requirements for exterior outlet Are there any code requirements with regard to the position of an electrical receptacle on an exterior wall?  Such as distance above the ground, distance from a corner, distance down from a roof overhang.  Just wondering, don't want to put this in and find out I have to move it.

Yes, there are

The Code cite you're after is NEC 210.52(E) (with subsections 1 and 3 being the commonly applicable ones):

  (E) Outdoor Outlets. Outdoor receptacle outlets shall be
  installed in accordance with 210.52(E)(1) through (E)(3).

  Informational Note: See 210.8(A)(3).

  (1) One-Family and Two-Family Dwellings. For a one-family dwelling and each unit of a two-family dwelling that
  is at grade level, at least one receptacle outlet readily accessible from grade and not more than 2.0 m (6 1/2 ft) above
  grade level shall be installed at the front and back of the
  dwelling.

  (2) Multifamily Dwellings. For each dwelling unit of a
  multifamily dwelling where the dwelling unit is located at grade level and provided with individual exterior
  entrance/egress, at least one receptacle outlet readily accessible from grade and not more than 2.0 m (6 1/2 ft) above grade level shall be installed.

  (3) Balconies, Decks, and Porches. Balconies, decks, and
  porches that are attached to the dwelling unit and are accessible from inside the dwelling unit shall have at least
  one receptacle outlet accessible from the balcony, deck, or
  porch. The receptacle outlet shall not be located more than
  2.0 m (6 1/2 ft) above the balcony, deck, or porch walking
  surface.

In other words, there needs to be a readily accessible receptacle not more than 6.5' above the walking level in front, in back, and for each balcony, deck, or porch you have.


Why does my stud finder report an AC warning over the entire wall? I've tired to find AC Power on my wall in my house that is a brick wall and the entire wall is showing as AC Live on the Stud/AC Finder and I also used the Volt Stick on the wall and its also glowing Red, I've turn off the mains breaker by the fuse box to disconnect the power from the entire house and the wall is still showing up as Live.
The wall I am testing a a parting/common wall that is adjoining to the house next door.
I've used 2 different detector and 2 different Volt Stick
Does anyone have any advice on what the issue could be as I need to drill into the wall?

The stud finder and the volt stick operate on changing electrical field strength levels, and they perform measurements by means of capacitive coupling.
It is possible that the fire & sound insulation in the parting wall is statically charged due to your or the neighbour's electrical wiring through or against the insulation. Even with circuits disconnected at the breaker, there can still be a small enough field capacitively coupled-in to trigger your devices.
With a bit of luck you may be able to reduce the sensitivity of your detector by placing a non-metallic spacer, like several sheets of paper, between the device and the wall, as you skim the wall.
Have you asked the neighbour to disconnect their power?
Alternatively, if you have outlets or wiring in that wall, you might be able to neutralize the field by grounding all conductors in the cables. This can be done by connecting a load but with the circuit power off. The load must preferably be "dumb" or "old fashioned" without control circuits, so no LED light, but a simple incandescent bulb, fan, or kettle would work.
Another trick that might work is grounding the wall itself: while grounding yourself place your hand on the wall to dissipate and keep dissipating any coupled charges. The important thing is to make sure you are well grounded, and so it depends on the flooring and your footwear.
It may be safer and more effective if you grounded the wall by placing a large and bare grounded metal object against it (e.g. pressing/leaning some HVAC sheet metal), or smaller objects at several spots on the wall. Then you have free hands and a clear path to ground without placing yourself in the circuit path. You could also ground the insulation by piercing nails or screws at several locations into it, and grounding them.


How many screws do I need in my subfloor? In my particular case, I'm building a tiny shed. I'm using ungrooved 3/4 inch treated plywood and no glue, if that makes a difference.

I'm not sure what the relevant units are either. Pounds per square foot? Screws per 4'x8' sheet?

According to Table R602.3(1) of International Residential Code (IRC), subfloor fastener schedule is as follows:

3/8"-1/2" panels. Use 6d common nails, spaced 6" apart on edges and 12" apart in the field.
19/32"-1" panels. Use 8d common nails, spaced 6" apart on edges and 12" apart in the field.
1 1/8"-1 1/4" panels. Use 10d common or 8d deformed nails, spaced 6" apart on edges and 12" apart in the field.

NOTES:

You can use screws (and I recommend you do), however, they must be equivalent to the nails listed in the code.
"edge" refers to the perimeter of each panel, while "field" refers to fastener not at the edge of each panel.
If you're building from a kit, you should follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.


Is the gray insulance material asbestos? This is a furnace room.

Is the gray insulation material (on the wall and above the pipes) asbestos?

Asbestos insulation was only manufactured as: loose fill, spray on or block types. I do not know of any roll-type purely asbestos insulation. The EPA began banning some asbestos products in 1973 and continued a series of bans all the way through 1989. The EPA has allowed a panel-type asbestos to be used in some Government facilities and allows some products to contain small amounts of asbestos. Depending on the age of your home, the likelihood of that being asbestos would be slim. FHA homes require an appraisal before selling them. FHA appraisers probably would have seen the exposed asbestos because their appraisals are more strict. If asbestos was found, the home seller would have been required to remove it.

There is now an asbestos test kit available for homeowners...


Should I add a vapor retarder to an interior cinderblock wall as part of my basement remodel? I am currently in the process of finishing my basement and I want to know whether, in general, anything should be done to an interior cinderblock wall related to moisture protection.

To show what I mean by interior cinderblock wall: In red, I have highlighted  an interior cinderblock wall which bisects my basement. The wall has a footer that is in direct contact with the earth.

Should I do something to account for potential moisture seeping in from the footer or exterior walls for this interior wall prior to finishing it? I have a sump pump and no signs of moisture trouble. I definitely want to do as much to control moisture as necessary without going overboard financially.

Additional Notes:

I will be using 2" spray foam to insulate and provide a class III vapor retarder on all exterior foundation walls
I will be using steel framing
I will be using unfaced cement backer board instead of drywall
I have a humidifier set to 45%
I had a sump pump installed last spring. I had very minimal signs of water leakage prior to that time (only once did I have a trickle of water come into the basement when snow was melting and heavy spring rains at the same time). I have had no signs of moisture trouble since the sump pump was installed.

Are you sure it was mold? It may have been mildew. In my experience, mildew can grow on nearly any surface as long as it stays moist...be it bare concrete or painted concrete.

In this case, the moisture on this interior wall likely is not coming from outside the basement, but rather is moist air condensing on the cool concrete. Painting it won't stop that from happening.

If there were existing finished walls, the issue was that moisture was getting back there, condensing, and then not easily drying. Leaving the walls bare (ie, no finish wall in front) would allow them to dry.

Alternatively, you can certainly spray-foam them as well. This will prevent the moist air from ever hitting the surface of the wall in the first place.

A final thought would be to check humidity levels in general. You do want to keep the humidity below about 50% and that's often hard to do in a basement without a dehumidifier. So be sure to have a dehumidifier running down there as well.


Proper backfill for a trench dug below foundation level (within the 45 degree cone of support) Given a trench dug below foundation level, what's the proper way to backfill?  Here I'm talking about a trench below the bottom edge of an unreinforced concrete foundation built in 1950, supporting a 2 story stucco house.  The trench is somewhat within the 45 degree soil cone supporting the weight of the house:

The foundation itself is about 13 inches high, the trench is 14 inches below that point, set off about 9 inches.  Three pipes are in the trench: solid 2", 2" and 1.5" cellular core ABS.  The soil is a heavy clay.  There is some surface water flow over this area.  The home is in an earthquake hazard zone.  The original soil grade was much higher: reaching the stucco as shown in the diagram (perhaps 25 inches above the current bottom of trench).

What's the proper way to prevent long term settling (or soil loss) below the foundation in this case?  Do you have references?  Thanks.

No handy references, (I was taught, as grunt labor, by a licensed civil engineer and former SeaBee, but I don't know which books it might have come from to him, or if any of them are on the web) but backfilling with something like road base (crushed rock including fines so it will pack well) and tamping it very well in thin layers (if you tamp 6" of fill, you only properly compact about 2" of it, so tamping 2" layers 3 times gets a better result.) Tamp with something fairly small - a large plate won't really compact as well (unless you rent a vibratory plate compactor.) If you are tamping by hand and it feels frustratingly slow, you are probably doing it right ;-)

Clay is virtually impossible to get properly compacted back into a trench - in non-bearing applications you generally backfill it and mound it a bit, then come back in  year to fix the settling. Obviously not such a good idea in a bearing application, thus the use of a readily compactable material like road base.


Is a grounded/neutral wire (not grounding wire) required to be run to a subpanel that will supply only 240V (2-pole) devices? I'm installing a subpanel that will supply only 240V 2-pole devices. I'm positive I never will need the capability to run 120V (1-pole) devices. Am I required to run a neutral wire to the subpanel? Please don't provide answers that recommend I do it "either way" for future-proofing. I only want to know what is code-required.

The code for feeders talks a bunch about the required size of feeder grounded wire, but as far as I've seen it never comes right out and states that it is required to provide a grounded wire. I am of course providing a grounding wire.

Its fine, no different than the main feed to your house. NEC(1999) article 200 is  "grounded conductors" and 215 is "feeders".

  "200-2. General. All premises wiring systems, other than circuits and
  systems exempted by sections ... 215-7 ..., shall have a grounded
  conductor that is identified in accordance with section 200-6. ..."

and so

  "215-7. Ungrounded Conductors Tapped From Grounded Systems. Two-wire
  dc circuits and ac circuits of two or more ungrounded conductors shall
  be permitted to be tapped from the ungrounded conductors of circuits
  having a grounded neutral conductor. Switching devices in each tapped
  circuit shall have a pole in each ungrounded conductor."

Meaning that you need to use double pole switches and breakers. (that disconnect both wires, as opposed to common light switches that only disconnect one of the wires.)


Electric baseboard wiring I have a 240v 1500w 6.5a electric baseboard heater with a wall mounted thermostat. What I found out is that the the thermostat and all the outlets in the room are on the same 20a breaker with this heater, it never gets really hot, only warm, I'm thinking someone wired it to 110 because of the outlets. How can I remedy this to get more heat? If I just hook the wires to a double pole 20a breaker for 240 it would make the proper heat but the outlets?? Humm, if I run a separate line for the heater for 220, I'll lose the thermostat, how would I control it? I'm not busting the wall apart to find where the thermostat wiring is. I did have the cover off the thermostat and its 12/2 wired. I can provide pictures of the info plates on both the heater and thermostat.

Sorry, the ONLY way to do this properly is to get the heater on a properly sized 240V circuit. This can be a 15A or 20A depending on what is shared on the circuit and what the distance is (less than a 150' or so circuit run this is not an issue).

If you don't want to do it right and find how the t-stat is wired you may be able to put an integral thermostat right on the unit and un-wire the wall t-stat. This depends on the age and brand of the heater if a t-stat is available for it. It's worth investigating thought. You may find the t-stat is wired right to the unit and has nothing to do with the receptacles.


How do I wire 3 way switches where the power comes in at the light? Have a 3 way switch question about a garage I'm helping a local homeless shelter fix up.  They have already installed some 3 way switches, wiring and places for 2 lights, but they aren't sure how to wire it up (the original guy who helped out isn't around anymore).

Basically 2 lights in the middle of 3-way switches on either end.  Power comes into the light 1 (2 wire) and then I have 3 wire from light 1 to switch 1, 3 wire from light 1 to light 2, and then 3 wire from light 2 to switch 2.  I have a diagram that shows me how to do it with power coming into the switch, but i am unsure of what to do in my current situation.  Can anyone help me wire this up?

Well I think I just found it.  BMitch, you are correct.  Here's a link to the diagram.

http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/information/how-to/three-way-switch-option8.htm

Can't be done as described, you are short 1 wire between the two light fixtures. You need another wire between the two lights. You do have other options though, one being a "smart switch" which uses a signal instead of travelers. How far apart are the 3-ways?


Mini Split Condenser wall mount on wood exterior wall We have a wood-frame house with 2x4 studs and half-inch plywood exterior walls. What is the generally accepted best practices for mounting a 80lb mini split condenser on a wall bracket to this type of wall?

The advice on the Internet appears to center around getting it on the studs. Unfortunately, due to installation location constraints, it turns out we couldn't get the unit to sit directly on studs.

There are three bolts on each bracket, and they're 3/8" diameter. They were screwed in tightly into the plywood and hold the machine up. Based on charts of plywood pull out strengths online, it appears that there is enough safety margin with this setup.

The question I have is whether or not this is generally considered an acceptable install, and if not, what steps can be taken to upgrade the mounting. Perhaps extra wood supports to bridge the unit over to studs? Worst comes to worst maybe the unit may need to be remounted, but this is difficult.

What is the best course of action in this case?

Thanks!

If the brackets are lag screwed into plywood, I wouldn't trust it.  There isn't much meat for threads to work with in 1/2" plywood, and there is going to be some vibration from the compressor.

If it's held in with toggle bolts,

it will be very strong, I would not be worried about it pulling out.  But I'd still rather not have a vibrating piece of equipment of this size and weight hanging on the plywood sheath.  I'd be concerned that the weight would warp or otherwise deform the plywood over time.

To make an attachment like this, you could bridge across studs with three horizontal pieces.  You'd anchor the horizontal pieces into the studs with long lag screws, and anchor the brackets to those pieces.

You could use 2x4's for the horizontal members, and lag screw the brackets into the 2x4's.  The 2x4 will hold the threads much stronger than the plywood.  You could paint the wood and it might look pretty good.

I would probably use 7/8" tall strut channel for the horizontal pieces lagged into the studs:

and strut channel nuts to attach the brackets to the channel:

Some consider strut a little too industrial looking for home use, but I think it might look fine in this case.  It will make such a strong mount you could get by with just two horizontal pieces bridging the studs.  After all air conditioning compressors are not invisible, you are going to have to look at something here.  The strut is quite a bit smaller than a 2x4 and once it's painted I think it will look good.

This is a slightly harder install than using 2x4's.  The vertical spacing between the two pieces must match the spacing between the holes on the brackets, and needs to be pretty precise.  The easy way to do that is attach the brackets to the strut FIRST, then screw the strut into the studs.

The hardest part here is going to be disconnecting and reconnecting the unit.


Are adapters unsafe? Plug G to plug F (UK to Sweden) I'm thinking of buying an instant pot ( https://www.instantpot.co.uk/product/instant-pot-duo-8-litre-electric-pressure-cooker-220v/ ).

It's a UK version and I live in Sweden. The voltage and frequency seems to be the same (around 220-230V and 50Hz).

I know I need to buy an adapter to make it fit in the socket.

My question: is it dangerous to use adapters like this (not to convert the voltage or anything), simply to make it fit.

I'm thinking of buying an instant pot

The good news is that the specifications for that instant pot say it comes with both UK and Schuko power cables. So you shouldn't need to adapt anything.

  Are adapters unsafe?

There are a few issues with adaptors.

There are a lot of really shoddy adapters out there.
Many adaptors do not provide an earth connection.
Many adapters try to generalise supporting multiple plug and/or socket types, but at the expense of a looser fit and/or a smaller contact area.
Many adapters have a lower current rating than the sockets they adapt between.
The extra weight and leverage puts more stress on the socket.

If it's a well-made adaptor that has correctly sized (4.8mm not 4mm) pins, the correct Schuko retention features, an intact earth path, a sufficient current rating and a socket designed specifically to take a BS1363 plug then it's probably safe enough but still for long-term use I would always favour changing the plug or cord over using an adapter.

Also be aware that Schuko plugs are unpolarised, so live and neutral may end up swapped. For modern equipment built to IEC standards this shouldn't be an issue but for vintage equipment or home-built stuff it may be.


Use 3 prong microwave on 2 wire ungrounded outlet? I have a dedicated, ungrounded 15A outlet. Can I use a microwave with a 3 prong plug on it if I install an AFCI/GFCI combo outlet? Or do I need to also ground the outlet?

The microwave owners manual says the outlet must be at least 15A.

You can use a three prong adapter, but only if you can ensure that the adapter is properly grounded.

An AFCI/GFCI outlet will help with some scenarios, but those outlets are meant to be grounded.  If you install one without grounding it, you're going to confuse whoever comes along later (and sees a 3-prong outlet) into thinking that the outlet is grounded.  So don't do that.

Another problem is that the microwave's chassis, if not grounded, might act in certain circumstances like an antenna and radiate microwaves into the room.  That would cause a lot of interference with other electronics (especially WiFi gear), and could be harmful.

Lastly, there could be some capacitative coupling that would cause an electric charge to build up on the chassis, leading to a shock hazard.


How do I properly label/wire a switched subwoofer outlet? All of my home theater components are in an under-stair closet that shares a wall with the back of my living room.

I already plan to run audio to the subwoofer in the living room, with a nice cover plate, etc., but I'd also like to power the subwoofer using the switched outlet on the back of my receiver/amplifier, so I'm not powering it 24/7.

Running an extension cord directly through a bare hole in the wall seems messy, is there a way to properly create a switched outlet on one side of a wall with a power cord on the other? How would I properly label it?

You'll need to pick up a PowerBridge type device, they allow you to have an inlet in one location and an outlet in another.

You'll connect the inlet to the outlet using cable rated for the appropriate load (14/2 Romex most likely), this insures everything is up to code (since it's not proper to run extension cords through walls).

To make the outlet switched, you'll simply connect a switch on the hot wire of the cable between the inlet and outlet devices.


Water leaking around window when it is NOT raining! I need help!

In February, we noticed that there were some brown water drips on the window frame above our kitchen sink, not in a crevice or corner, just hanging from the middle of the wood frame!

Shortly after, we noticed brown staining / water on the small drywall section above the sink and around the canister light. Outside, we had large brownish icicles hanging from the window.

I called a bunch of people but had trouble getting help, until one nice roofer suggested turn off our whole house humidifier, that seemed to help.  We didn’t have any water again until today,  it didn’t rain today but it has been damp.

The window is on the first floor of our house and our bathroom shower is directly above.

It is hard to get anyone out at the moment due to the World Wide Pandemic, Covid 19.

Any ideas????

Thank you!!

The outside pics are from February, hence the icicles. There is no condensation on any of the windows in the house. Also, FYI, our house was built in 1919.

For the picture of inside the house: The water also drips, like one drop hanging in suspension, from the frame.  I wiped it up so it isn’t clear in the picture.

Original Photo links

https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORFyk.jpg

https://i.stack.imgur.com/d8VdX.jpg

Update: This is a picture of the upstairs bath where the window directly above is located.

I think you could be having a plumbing issue or leakage around the tub.   Even if you had really poor grouting and things like that I doubt you would be getting enough water to make icicles.  Mold maybe not icicles.   You may have a leaky pipe - that is still in the picture for issues.

My suggestion though is to take that shower window out of the equation of possible issues.   There are two way to do this.

Clean up window below, try to make sure things are as dry as possible.  Then dump water on the window and back edge of tub, see if you notice water coming in.
Get an extra shower curtain.   Wrap the back of your shower with it - I know it is a pain.   But after cleaning window off below and seeing it dry for a week it is pretty apparent that the window above it taking in water (and possibly some of the tile).

My guess would be it is the window.   This is a PITA because it is impossible to seal a window like this forever - it is just poor design.   Having a window in a shower is one thing, this low... begging for issues.

Report back after doing one of the things above and we can troubleshoot further.  Just FYI a leaking window or tile is way easier to deal with than a leaky pipe.   So it isn't as bad as it could be.


My master bedroom is hot! Should I install a return in my master bedroom? Thanks for taking the time to read my question. I have a house where the master bedroom was added in during an expansion. The master sits half above unfinished basement and half above crawlspace and has a single floor vent to draw air from the central air system.

My room is sweltering in the summer and frigid in the winter while the rest of the upstairs is quite comfy and I'm, frankly, quite tired of it. After around two years of google-fu and thought I've decided to fix it and I think the problem would be solved by adding a return into the master.

Is this the case? If so, where would be a good place to start and learn how to add returns. If not, is there something else that would fix the problem?

I can provide further information upon request and, again, thanks for taking the time to read this.

Here it is thanks. A return duct will help the air flow into the room when the door is closed. Up sizing the supply and dampers to to help provide more flow may also help. In my last home I had 2 dampers that I adjusted 1 for up stairs and 1 for down. More air to the upstairs in summer when it was cold and more down in the winter when the heat was on. Since both seasons are not comfortable a return would be the first change then an upsize to the supply.


How close can I put a fridge-freezer to a gas boiler? I have an older (20-30 years ) old gas boiler mounted on the wall, and a space to put a fridge-freezer at 90 degrees to it around 20cm away.

I know we want to avoid radiators/boilers ( which does also get hot, but maybe less so? ) right next to it but how close can I get away with? 10cm, 20cm, 50m, 1m+?

I would also be considering to put a wooden cupboard around the boiler, especially if this would help insulate  the fridge from the boiler and redirect the heat elsewhere.

It really depends on where the condensing coils are for the fridge. And how hot the boiler gets.
On the fridge the coils used to always be on the back exterior .I have one fridge they are under the bottom of the fridge and another one that they are under the metal skin on the left side.  I figured this out when cooling it down that side got quite hot. , you really don’t want any additional heat source around the fridge it could possibly cause problems including total failure (rare) but will increase the energy usage and shorten the life of the system.
I have had hot water heaters (some call boilers) that with a thermal blanket would have been ok  to go next to a cabinet it depends. I had 1 home with partial hydronic heating that boiler (water heater) was in a very small cabinet it was an electric model but it kept a modest addition to the house heated well (the home originally had ceiling cable heat and I was matching the no ductwork design)
Another “flipp” house had the water heater in the kitchen I put a nice thermal blanket around it and a cabinet floor to ceiling next to it and a door , by code the cabinet had to be movable because the space was two small but when I showed the inspector the cabinet could be easily moved it passed inspection.
There are multiple possibilities here that can be done keeping heat away from the fridge away from heat is best but if the boiler is like a standard low pressure system I am used to the fridge could be close but needs air flow in any case.
This may not be a complete answer but with the info provided may help you make your decision.


What on earth is this small wall-mounted computer? I live in a rented apartment, and there is this little plastic box on the wall that I had been ignoring. Here is what it looks like:

There are no markings or holes on the casing. I got curious and opened it up, and was surprised to find a small PCB inside:

Since it's about halfway up the wall, I was thinking it could be a carbon monoxide detector, but those are usually pretty identifiable or at least have some holes on the side. I was also thinking it could be a wireless doorbell, but we don't have one of those, nor do I see any evidence that there was one here previously. Any ideas?

It's a temperature sensor w/ wireless transmitter:

https://www.inovonics.com/products/dual-input-temperature-transmitter-en1723/

I found that by googling the various numbers printed on the stickers -- EN1723 turned the device up as the top hit.


What can I do about my drains constantly getting blocked? The one thing I have tried to do about this is use those foaming and non-foaming drain unblockers regularly. That has just been money down the drain, pardon the pun.

I suspect that unblockers only work if the blockage is in trap (the first bendy bit that blocks smells). I suspect my blockage keeps occurring elsewhere, because when the washing machine flushes copious amounts of water, it has no problem coming out of the bathtub drain - so clearly that part isn't blocked.

I've also tried the plunger (which occasionally helped to unblock the pipes, and always helped get the 30 minutes daily exercise), and a snake (long bendy cable thing), which has been a complete waste.

My questions: is there anything else I can try or is it time to call a professional? Also, does this sound like some sort of a design problem with the pipes in my flat, or is this just the way drains always are? (hope not!...)

I have since learned the following things about my waste pipes, which together explain the constant blockage and glugging sounds:

The pipe is far too narrow for a tub, two sinks, a dishwasher and a washing machine: only 4cm.
There's a very sharp 90° bend near the exit from the property, which is where a huge blockage accumulates (10cm deep solid chunk of waste). Apparently a waste plumbing no-no.
Most of the pipework lies flat on the floor, with zero slope. There's about 1.5m of it that is visible. Apparently against all plumbing codes and a cause of blockage.
There was a T-junction installed "backwards" (directing incoming water from a sink towards the kitchen appliances and forcing it to reverse direction in order to leave the property). There was a humongous second blockage underneath this T-junction.
There is no air vent (really!), explaining the noises. (update: the noises went away once the second blockage got eliminated)

Overall, a really bad plumbing job someone did here...

When drain water from one fixture comes back out another fixture, it means your blockage is beyond the point where those drains meet.

You need to get a good look at the topology of your waste plumbing, to get some ideas about where the blockage is. Clothes washer -> bathtub is a common symptom, because the clothes washer drains a lot of water up high (it has a pump) and the tub drain is down low.

Snaking down a drain is really hard, because of all the curves of the P-trap. If you're lucky, you have a clean-out somewhere, like under the house or behind a wall. Otherwise, you can try removing a P-trap to get the snake in, or removing a toilet. Removing a toilet is not very hard, but can be daunting.

We had a similar problem in this house. There were a few clean-outs accessible in the crawlspace, and our landlord used a hand-held snake in them, but didn't have much luck.

They hired a professional plumber. He pulled a toilet out and ran a huge snake down the drain (not one of the handheld units, but a huge, loud, floor-standing model heavy-duty cable). After running all 75' out, he borrowed another snake from his colleague, for 150' of snaking. This is a single-story house, on a 50'-wide lot, so the snake was well in to the street!

He said he pulled out a lot of roots. This is apparently common in older plumbing. They develop a small leak, and nearby plants grow after the nutrient-rich water, and find their way in to the pipe. It took him about 4 hours.

Plumbing is simple. There aren't a lot of rules to follow. Everything works in obvious ways. You don't need a lot of expensive, complicated tools, and if you do need something big, you can rent it. Anyone can fix plumbing.

But it can also be unpleasant. Screw-on connections may be rusted in place - hacksawing is often easier. There's the spectre of old poop and hair. Things may be difficult to reach - in a cabinet behind a sink basin or in a muddy crawlspace full of rat droppings.

If the job takes a few days, and you're unaccustomed to living without plumbing, it can be a trying time. Especially if there's a whole family in the house, and they aren't sympathetic. A pro will get the job done much faster, since they arrive with the right tools, parts, and experience.

There's a lot of instructions out there, on the internet, at the library, at the hardware store. If you decide to get your feet wet (get it? ha ha) then you will be able to find the information you need.


How can I increase the effectiveness of the A/C in a hot 2nd floor converted attic master suite? Just bought a 1940's masonry construction house. House has a finished basement (cold as a meat locker), first floor (comfortable) and 2nd floor (too hot). The 2nd floor is an attic that has been converted to a master suite (with vaulted ceilings), and it's way too warm. The furnace is really old, so I'm installing a new one (with credit from seller) that has a 4-ton blower (old one is 3 ton).

The master bed (24 feet x 12 feet) has a single supply and two returns (all on the same knee wall) all at same height (wall is only 43" high and then it follows the pitch of the roof). Each return is about 6 feet either side of the supply.

Running an additional supply duct is going to be very destructive. The HVAC guy says using a 4-ton blower, putting a damper in the main trunk in basement, and splitting the supply duct in the attic will probably fix it.

Before I commit, I'd like to get some opinions on how probable a solution this is. I would have thought splitting the ducts wouldn't increase the air flow, as it's constrained by the diameter through the walls (isn't it?).

Would an inline duct fan help?

The HVAC guy has a hammer, and your problem looks like a nail. More ducts! Bigger equipment! Wrong. Your problem is easy to diagnose: this room's ceiling is terribly under-insulated. When people convert attics into rooms, they almost always (like 99% of the time) insulate the ceiling incorrectly and insufficiently. You need a lot more insulation; the lack of enough is the problem, and adding more is the solution. There are two ways to do this: by adding rigid foam boards under the rafters or above the roof sheathing. If you're not planning to redo your roof anytime soon, the latter option is probably right out. So you need to remove the ceiling drywall, put, say, 5" of polyiso foam (XPS, EPS or mineral wool would work too, but you'd need more) under the rafters, put up new drywall, and live with a 5" reduction in ceiling height.

A secondary problem is that the duct is in the kneewall area, which is unconditioned space. So the nice cold air is passing through a duct in a space that's maybe 130 degrees or more. You can wrap the duct in a ton of insulation, which will help. Adding a radiant barrier under the exposed roof decking in the kneewall area will help too. There are lots of other approaches that will work here, such as insulating under the roof decking in the kneewall area to bring it into the conditioned space.


Ceiling fan slowest speed not working My 3 speed ceiling fan seems to have lost its slowest speed.  The high & medium speeds works OK, but the slowest speed does not work now.  Any ideas?

I'd guess the switch. But as has been noted in previous questions, there are several configurations of this switch (different terminal arrangements, low/med/hi versus hi/med/lo), so replacing it requires examining both old and new switches and, ideally, having the circuit diagram for the fan available. Unless you're pretty confident with such things, you might want to have someone more experienced deal with it.


Is there any way I can repair this PVC/conduit that carries sprinkler system wire from the ground into my garage? On the summer sun side of my house there is a small section of PVC that routes sprinkler wire from the yard into my garage where the rain bird controller is. After a decade or so of summer sun and one or two errant whacks with a weed eater it's broken.
I'd like to seal it back up with something more attractive and more durable than duct tape. I can't replace the pipe without pulling all the wire back through the wall then re-routing it (not ideal). I've thought about getting one of those fake rocks to cover it, but that still doesn't seal it, and tape (the other idea) doesn't really do much to prevent the weed eater from getting those wire-bundles and destroying them.

There's really only 2 ways to address this issue:

Do it properly and replace that section of conduit. This will require removing the wires, but it is a permanent and visually appealing fix.
Get a split coupling or repair clamp and solvent-weld or fasten it over the damaged area.

Repair Clamp:

Split Coupling:


Can I run cable across the gap between floor joists? I've been working on wiring my shop in my unfinished basement (sub-panel installed by a licensed electrician) and I've come across a question I haven't been able to find an easy answer to.
There are places where I'm running down the length of a floor joist (at least 1.5" from the bottom edge, secured every few feet) and I need to change the side of the joist bay (to go through a hole in the joist usually).  It's a simple crossing of the open air space between joists.  Are there any code requirements or rules on how to cross the joist bay if the wire continues to run parallel to the joist for a bit on either side of the crossing?
I live in Ohio if that matters for the answers.
Thanks for the help!

As @George stated, running between joists is fine.  Just don't attach to the bottom of the joists.  That is not fine.
One finer point, by the way...make sure you drill your holes in your joists within the middle 1/3 of the joist.  Don't do it 1.5" from the bottom of the joist.


Why is my electric going on only in half my house? I need to know how my electric would be going out only in half my home.
I have a electrical pole leaning forward toward my yard away from my house.
My electric has been going off in all my mobile home except my fridge and two outlets and my master bedroom and master bathroom - everything else is kicking off, including my heat pump.
The heat pump makes a big sound that sounds like it is begging for electricity, then my electric will go off. It kicks off a few minutes then comes back in.
We have had the transformer changed, the electric company also fixed the clips at the top of my pole. This seems to have fixed the problem for about a week, but it snowed and was cold, and now it went back off. The power stays off a few mins then kicks backs on. My husband went to wiggle the wires going into the box out on the pole and the electric comes back on.
I don't know if this is the problem where the pole is leaning crinkling the wires into my outside box up but seems like that's causing it to go off or the wire into the box on the pole is being pushed up and not straight causing it.

Your question lacks details we need to accurately answer your question (see my comments above).  However, it sounds like you are losing one leg of your service.  In the US (are you in the US or Canada?) electricity is delivered in 110 volt increments (commonly referred to as "legs").  Each house has two of these "legs" delivered to it.  Again, each "leg" carries 110 volts.  When you need more power (e.g. for clothes dryers, water heaters, AC, etc.) these two legs are combined to provide 220 volts.  Everything else in your home will get electricity from one leg or the other.  If one of these legs fails (e.g. by a connection being broken due to a bad transformer or a damaged pole) then you will lose electricity in "half" of your home.
The heat pump probably runs on 220 volts and requires both legs to run properly.  You are probably hearing it strain to start on just one leg.  This is dangerous to both you and the heat pump.  You will either burn out the motor or start a fire (maybe both).


Resilient Channel and Drywall Orientation I’ve got a 20’x12’ vaulted ceiling, 4/12 pitch that I want to install resilient channel on to reduce the risk of cracking; sound damping is not important. Trusses are just plain 2x6’s in the roof. Would I install the resilient channel perpendicular or parallel to the trusses, and subsequently what direction would I install my sheeting in relation to the RC?  I haven’t been able to find any good info online or in manufacturers install specs in relation to vaulted ceilings.  Thank you.

Perpendicular.

I found this

"Resilient channel should be installed on Cathedral Ceilings (single or double angled ceiling) with the center of the face of the channel 6 inches from the top to permit a floating angle wallboard installation. Resilient channel must be installed with mounting flange down."

at the following website.

https://www.wconline.com/articles/89218-preventing-ceiling-cracking-with-resilient-channels

And of coarse much info is available on YouTube such as this YouTube vid.


20A and 50A receptacle on 30A circuit I am installing an outdoor receptacle (NEMA 14-50) on a dedicated circuit for EV charging. While the charger uses a 14-50 plug, it only draws 24A (80% continuous rating for 30A circuit).

I have two questions about installing this receptacle:

Can I install this on a 30A breaker? My expected load is always going to be 24A, even if the receptacle can handle up to 50A.
To provide Stage 1 EV charging (for overnight charging), can I install a 20A receptacle on the same circuit? Again, the expected load is always 12A (80% of 15A).

Hard "no".  The only receptacle you can install on a 30A circuit is a 30A receptacle.  NEC 210.21B3.

You mentioned the EV industry's tendency to put 14-50 on every charger.  That creates a real mess.  You cannot install a 50A receptacle unless you have 50A wire and breaker.  As you note in the above table, there's an exception where it's also allowed on 40A circuits, but the reason for the exception is there's no such thing as a 40A receptacle, and that exception is bullseyed at the special case of range/ovens.  For a new -50 in a garage, where anything could be plugged into it from a better EV supply to a welder, best to use 50A cable so people get exactly what is on the tin.

Contemplating a situation where replacing the 10AWG cable is not practicable... I would get a "generator transfer switch" that takes the form of a small subpanel with an interlock so two specific 240V breakers can't be on at once, and takes readily available breakers (because I'd change them). Normally, those panels backfeed; I'd not.  The 30A supply would go to its buses.  I'd change one breaker to a 30A and feed the 14-30.  The other to 20A and feed the 20A receptacle.

If forced to plug into 30A service, I would use a 30A receptacle and a cheater cable.  This is not quite legal, but since it's not part of the building, it's out-of-scope for the permitting and inspection process. I'd specifically aim to make it as obvious as possible that it is a cheater cable -- to warn "the next guy" that this is not 50A as advertised.  A receptacle installed in a building should always be what it looks like.  I shudder to think of people solving this problem with a neat 14-50 installation onto 10AWG wire; later they sell the house to a guy motivated by that sweet 50A service in the garage.


How to get cable staples to stick in the wall In my family room, I've used cable staples (like the ones pictured below) to fasten speaker wire along the wall at the top of the baseboards. There are hardwood floors in this room.

Not all of them fastened so securely, which wasn't a problem at first… and then we got a puppy, who bumps into them, and then tries to eat them once they fall out. How can I get them to stay in the wall better, without limiting myself to inserting them over studs (as I sometimes need them more closely spaced than that) or inserting them into the baseboards, which I'd rather not poke so many holes into.

Nail in clips just will not hold in drywall.  Even over studs, the nails are typically too short to get good penetration.  Nail clips and stapes can still work (barely) in drywall if they are used up high where they will not be touched.

I would instead recommend and adhesive clip option.

The Command Clips linked also have the advantage of coming off the wall cleanly if you ever need them to.

Another good option is adhesive wire mold that covers the entire length of the cord.  It's a little more expensive, but with no exposed wire, it becomes very puppy-proof.


Do receptacles require a 20 ampere breaker? I thought wall receptacles required a 20 amp breaker.  Am I wrong?

Answer based on the NEC in the US.

In some areas with local amendments to the NEC maybe, but it's not an across the board code requirement.

There are areas in a home that do require 20A circuits, such as bathroom receptacles, laundry receptacle(s), kitchen/DR/pantry receptacles. Other areas such as garages, utility rooms and unfinished basements it is definitely a good idea.

Personally I do most receptacle circuits on 20A, but this is not a hard and fast rule for me.


Replacing 3 bulb fixture with LED fixture I have a kitchen light fixture with 3 bulbs.  Each bulb has a black and white wire attached.  This fixture is on a 3 way switch.  I am replacing the current 3 bulb light fixture with an led fixture that only has a black, a white and a ground wire. What do i do with the extra wires coming to the light fixture?

Stop. The wires coming from the ceiling must be left as they are
For some reason, this one drives people crazy.  If a lamp takes multiple wires, and people see multiple wires coming from the ceiling to the fixture, they think there's some sort of correspondence.  There's not.

Example: If you see 3 white wires coming from the ceiling, and 3 white wires going to the 3 bulbs in the fixture, and they're all clumped together, they are so for a reason.  The 3 white wires are not only communicating with the 3 lamp bulbs, but also with each other.
the fact that it's 3 and 3 is pure coincidence. The ceiling-3’s first job is to connect the three ceiling wires with each other.  Because those wires have other jobs unrelated to this light. Their second job is to provide the necessary service to the light-3.

So people take apart the wires from the ceiling because they think the ceiling wires are all about the light. After they discover this is wrong, they have the wires all confused and are unable to put them back the way they were.  We see this all the time, we had one just yesterday.
Here's what you do
Take photos.  Notice that all the black wires from all the lamps goes to one single wire nut.  There will be one or more other wires from the ceiling also going into that nut. Whatever you do, those wires from the ceiling need to remain connected to each other.
The same applies to the lamp white wires.
The ceiling wires could be any conceivable color, and may also be the same color as other wires going into other wire nuts.  If that offends your OCD, more on that later. Color coding is simply not a thing.  The colors are a side-effect of cable manufacture, they must be made different so they can be distinguished on the other end.  Real electricians rely on testing, position and grouping to determine which wires are which.
Although in all probability, the white-wire group will be all-white.  Don't get too excited about that, it's a special rule for neutrals -neutrals must be white, but white wires are not necessarily neutral.
You may also find other groups of wires nutted together that do not connect to the lamp.  Leave those alone. Seriously.
So all the white wires from the new fixture goes into the same bundle of wires that all the white wires from the old fixture went to, and all the other wires in that bundle stay together.
Ditto black.
If you were simply removing the fixture, then the new fixture would have 0 wires obviously, but the bundle of wires in the ceiling that was together before, must still be together. If removing the lamp wire(s)  leaves a ceiling wire solo, it is capped. Do not split groups.
With safety grounds, follow the lead of the last fixture. Grounds are always green, yellow/green or bare, except in the old Soviet Bloc.  It is the only color code that is reliable.
Marking wires by function
I can't stand seeing 3 black wires in a box each doing different jobs.  That's why I own 10 colors of electrical tape.  (5 will do). That is why I wrap tape around wires to re-mark wires by their function:

black for always-hot (you use that in switch loops)
red for switched-hot (this wire invariably feeds a lamp, note that the wires on lamps themselves are black)
white for neutral, but you don't have a choice here, since every cable has white, and if neutral is present, Code requires you use white for it.
blue for alternate switched-hot, if there's 2 switches involved or if red is in the box for other purposes.
yellow (solitary) for third switched-hot.
yellow (on a pair of wires) for 3-way travelers.
Etc.

This makes boxes make a lot more sense really fast.
Feel free to start your work by following the lamp blacks to their wire nut and marking all wires in that clump with red or blue electrical tape.  No need to mark the old lamp's wires obviously.


Self Leveling Compound for Floating LVP vs No Leveler and Glue Down LVP I've read so, so many things online about how self-leveling compound is good and then continued to read another 5 minutes and read how it is terrible.
I have wood subfloors and am hoping to put down luxury vinyl plank. Originally, I wanted to put in a "noise dampening" underlayment and a floating vinyl plank floor.  Problem is, like everybody else's floors, they are not perfectly flat.  There are undulations here and there that exceed the flooring manufacturer's "flatness" constraints.  The constraints are flatness within 1/8" over 6' and 3/1" over 10.'
My question is:  Would it just be better to install glue down planks and avoid the whole issue of having to "level" the floor?  Or, would it be worth using a product like ARDEX Liquid Backer Board to level the undulations and thus be able to install an underlayment and floating vinyl plank floor?
The concerns I have are whether the self-leveling compound is just going to crack over time and cause issues I will not want to deal with and getting the mixture just perfectly right.
Thanks in advance for your advice!

It really depends :

How out of flat are your floors?  Have you taken a 10' straight edge around the room to get the flooring and found the largest difference?

How picky are you, if the floor has some bounce/flex when walking on it is that a deal breaker?  The constraints are there to give you a high quality installation.

Glue down won't work if the floor is so out of level that the clicking mechanism doesn't line up or if you do manage to click it you could end up with voids that cause bouncing and eventual failure of the product.
Some techniques I use:
Consider furniture placement.  If you have furniture covering the area of the floor that is less perfect it doesn't matter as much as you won't notice the bounce and that section of floor won't be subject to continual stress.
Fill low areas with glued down high density underlay
Sand down high spots ( depends if you have a localized high spot ).
Plan the direction of your boards depending on the direction of the slope.  Typically you'll find that the subfloor is flat going in the direction of the joists but across the joists it tends to go up or down depending on how the joists were installed and how much crown they had.  If you put the boards parallel with the joists then the click locks will likely work better than if you put them the other way and the click/lock is trying to stay together over what to the floor looks like a void.
Really I think an 1/8 is more than my perfection requires.  Anything 1/4" or greater should be fixed ( based on the straight edge ) I use a 1/4" horse shoe shim and try to fit it under the straight edge as I move it around the room.
If you have dips you can use SLC.  Mixing it up properly isn't rocket science - though a scale and remembering that 1L of water = 1kg helps when mixing up less than a bag and figuring out mixing ratios.  You should have screeds, trowels and choose an SLC that accepts feathering.  Most require a primer to prevent the plywood from absorbing all the moisture.  I found myself doing a couple lifts the first time and it worked out ok.  I hired out some of the work after doing a few smaller section myself and realizing how hard it is on your back.
I had a room where the end dropped by 1" so I raised it 1/2 with plywood and did SLC to bring it up the rest of the way.
SLC can and does crack.  That shouldn't be an issue if you have underlay and the subfloor is flat enough that anything that could crack doesn't move around.  Cracks are really fine the worst are pieces that come loose and then rub together as you walk on them.  Underlay is fairly soft and any pieces that do some loose are likely to embed in the underlay.  If the subfloor is flat and the LVP is installed flat and has underlay I don't see how pieces of the SLC are going to move around.
If you want perfect results you flood the entire area with SLC such that it covers every square inch of the area and you move it around as it does not self level.  You are really better paying someone to do that level of finishing.


Post-less combination window & door system We are planning a remodel and are considering a post-less combination folding window & door system similar to what is shown at:

http://www.nanawall.com/applications/belvedere-kitchen
http://user-73717428386.publ.com/LaCantina-Doors-32-page-Catalog#22

I attached a tentative floor plan showing the doors in red and the windows in green and wanted to get a sense if someone has done something like this or if this would be geometrically feasible given the 120 deg corner.

As to whether it is geometrically feasible, I have no idea.  The question you should be asking is whether it is structurally feasible. I doubt there is any conceivable way to get a header that turns 120° and would provide enough support in the corner without a post there.  I'm assuming that the dashed line is an existing wall. I would also evaluate whether or not the wall is load bearing - based on the floor plan, it looks like it might need to have a header as well.

I would consult with an engineer or an architect before progressing with floor plans.


How do i disassemble this toe touch drain stopper? I can't figure out for the life of me how to disassemble the rest of this toe touch bathtub stopper and I really need to clean it. This is the view once the top has been screwed off.
in all the images i have seen of these types of stoppers, i haven't seen anything that looks like this. other stoppers i've seen have a screw at the top that you unscrew, get the stopper out and clean it. i've tried sticking a flat head screwdriver in the slots to see if it would turn... nothing. i can't figure out how to make this release. any ideas or advice welcome. i just need to clean the thing. thanks in advance!
p.s. i believe it's an american standard

Normally drain assemblies unscrew the entire flange. There is special wrench with pins that protrude and catch the cross bars just below the focus level. I have called them a basin wrench but looking online they were called a drain removal wrench. This unscrews the flange and the stopper comes out with it (or the ones I have had came apart this way)
Some of these drains are O ring sealed and some use plumbers putty to seal the flange to the tub. If it uses plumbers putty roll it out and coil it under the flange when the flange pulls tight it will squish out the excess wipe up with finger and it should be sealed.
If the drain uses an o ring clean the oring if in good shape reuse if not replace or use plumbers putty to seal.
I have used 3 screwdrivers in the past putting 2 in the drain and Holding them with 1 hand and the 3rd horizontally between the 2 and twist , I prefer the wrench as I have broken the cross metal piece 1 time so use caution if you try this method over a 10$ drain removal wrench.


What's the best caulk type for exterior stucco to wood window trim? I have cracked caulk that is sealing window trim to a stucco wall. What type of caulk should I use to replace the old, deteriorated caulk?

Ideally, the caulk would be paintable.

In my opinion the best caulk for almost any siding job is urethane. It's crazy sticky, paints well (and comes in a zillion colors to match pre-finished siding by special order), and remains flexible.

Caveat: As I said, it's crazy sticky. It will remain on your skin for days and your clothing forever. You'll want to use a small, well-shaped nozzle and practice beforehand. Ideally, there's no additional tooling to be done. The nozzle does the tooling.


Cover deck - wiring options I want to install fans in a covered deck.  The room is timber beams and trying to hide wiring best I can.

What options do I have, if I use UF-B can I cover with wiremold raceway (which would be merely cosmetic b/c I believe UF-B does not need to be in raceway/conduit.

If I use THWN, I don’t think wiremold would be adequate, and I think it can only be used in dry locations.

Any options for a low profile approved conduit for damp locations?  Or is UF-B in wiremold a good option.   I would like to cover the raceway with trim.

Also I assume regardless of wire/conduit option, I need weather proof fan boxes?  If not using conduit what type of fitting do you use on the weather proof box?

Thanks in advance.

You're in a gray area - some inspectors will consider the area under the roof a damp area, some will consider it a dry area.  I think anyone would agree that the exposed part from the ground up is wet.

I think wiremold will not give you a good result.  I've never tried pulling UF into wiremold but I bet it's a pain.  Bends that are not right angles are a pain with wiremold.

I think neatly stapled exposed UF would look fine.  If you stapled as much as possible to the top of the beams you'll hardly see it.  The other option would be to do it in conduit, but again with the bends involved you probably can't use ready-made bends, so unless you can bend conduit I don't think it will come out like you want.

Now from the top of the posts down it's either UF in a sleeve / stub to protect from physical damage, or conduit - PVC or EMT - but it might be all straight runs, so it's much easier to work with conduit.


Precautions in connecting high voltage source to a relay? I want to use the following relay to control a 220V AC electrical device.

The device may be an oven or a heating plate which I think should draw a less than 10A current (but the current should still be quite large).

I think I should cut the "live" wire of the electrical device and insert the 2 cut wire parts into the relay, while the "neutral" wire should be left unchanged. And then enclose the relay with a plastic box to protect it from touch by anyone.

As I have only some experience with small current electronics but have no experience in handling large current devices. I want to know that should I use "Heat-shrink tube" when connecting the cut "live" wires into the relay pins ? If yes, which type/model of "Heat-shrink tube" should I use for an enough protection ?

Moreover, is there any online tutorial/example for connecting large current device to a relay in a safe manner ?

Thanks for any suggestion.

EDIT :

After some googling, I find that there are two youtube videos that show the use of this kind of SONGLE relay to switch some 120V AC light blubs. They are located here and here.

Although this kind of relay seems do well on short term high voltage/current AC switching, safety concerns (e.g. overheat, etc) about its long term usage are still under question.

the Idea you have is good , but the components although "rated" for 10 amps really will not hold up long at that level. I usually only load these small relays at 50% and as low as 10% if it has a short cycle time. the problem is contacts in the mechanicial ones will soon stick and overheat your hot plate , The electronic ones the solid state relays internally short untill the junction is blown apart but usually dammaging the divice they are driving.
as for plastic it melts, maybe a plastic liner in a metal box or standoffs in metal but use caution it will probably work for a while but when it fails thats when things get ugly


Oakum vs fibreglass insulation I am building a cabin and would like to place some extra form of insulation to pair with the chinking of the logs.  I have seen traditional builds on the internet which use tarred oakum between the foundation and base log, as well as, between each log.  The reason given is that if the oakum gets wet, it expands while keeping the same insulation properties.  Does fibreglass insulation have the same property? Is there any benefit that tar oakum would provide to a cabin that fibreglass insulation would not?
Thanks.

Turns out that fibreglass insualtion does not retain its insulation properties when wet and is inferior for my given application of weatherizing a cabin.  Tar oakum expands when wet and continues to produce a wind/weather barrier therefore it is a good option for outside facing insulation.


The subpanels ground is not bonded to main panels neutral busbar The main panel has a neutral and three ungrounded conductors entering it from the utility provider is also has a grounding rod the neutral and three conductors get transmitted from one location to the other location into a sub panel in the sub panel it has a neutral bus and a grounding bus the grounding bus is isolated and every possible way from the neutral bus is this bad.

I know a little bit about electricity and I didn't do this project I'm just wondering because I know and a main panel all the grounds and neutrals come together in the main bus, and when it goes to a sub panel the grounds and neutrals are isolated from the main panel out, and go to separate buses.

I'm just wondering if the main grounding bus in the side panel has to be bonded to the main neutral bus in the main panel with a wire or a grounding rod is sufficient.

I know if the ground is not probability bonded to a neutral it could probably store electricity in if someone touches it could deliver a fatal electrocution.

Note: I know electricity is not stored it just flow along it.
 But if it's a capacitor it will store electricity

Short answer, you do want a ground conductor between the main panel and subpanel (not just a ground rod at the subpanel) and you only want the neutral bonded to the ground at the main panel.

The ground rod alone is not sufficient - although there would be a path through ground back to the main building's ground, that is not a low impedance path, it wouldn't be low enough to clear a fault, not safe, etc.

The ground conductor could be a metal conduit from panel to panel provided it's installed properly so that it creates a continuous path back to the main panel.


Can you remove foul paint in new construction to bare drywall? I have an art studio built in the back half of my garage that has been unusable ever since we painted. We built new, with drywall, the building is roughly 6 years new. We finally installed the drywall about 3 years ago. The walls were primed first since it was new drywall.

When the walls were finally painted we used a matte ceiling paint so there would be no reflections etc on the walls. The paint ended up being rancid but we did not know at the time as we were wearing masks. It smells so bad I get a headache after being in there for only ten minutes or so. I painted 4 coats of an oil based shellac primer from the many recommendations on sites as these. Still smells.

It sat for a year hoping the smell would just dissipate with the windows open. Twice,I room shocked the room with biocide room shockers, still smelled bad.  I ended up writing the paint company and they recommended two different products to try, I did... room still smells awful. I let it sit all winter with 9# of activated charcoal in there while it was too cold to paint and opened the windows and had fans running all winter long. Still smells awful.  The company wants me to try one more primer of theirs but I wrote them asking whats next if this doesn't work? And they have stopped responding.

Is there a way I can remove the paint down to the drywall and see if that cures the stench? I'm afraid to rip out the drywall as there is 16" of blown insulation in the ceiling, which by the way does not smell, I stuck my head up there to check.  This room has sat unused for almost 3 years now because of the smell.  I'm so mad at this point. What would happen if I stripped the paint and the drywall paper off with it? Can you have sheetrock without paper?

Your choices are rip out and replace or add another layer of sheetrock.  I'm guessing the cause of the smell has soaked into the porous substrate  (sheetrock)  and will never come out.  I would advide using a vapor barrier unless you fully understand vapor and moisture control in walls though. From your tale personally I would sheet over the ceilings and rip out walls if it was just blown in above.


Hanging vertical tile in powder room, cement board or drywall? We are putting in a powder room, toilet and sink. Behind the toilet we plan on having tile up the wall. The tile is 8x8". We were planning on using 5/8ths drywall. Is this appropriate or do we need to use cement board? It is a a small wall, just about 35" across, should there be any consideration about stud spacing to hold the weight or do 16 on center studs work? Thanks for the advice!

I am generally apprehensive about fixing tile directly to gypsum wallboard, and recommend using cement board if you have the choice. It is imperative that you do not use wallboard in a wet location.
That being said, I have seen tile attached to wallboard work perfectly well in locations with low moisture and where any rough use (impact) is not likely.
As for the stud arrangement and attaching the wallboard, I would consider it mandatory that all the edges are supported with wood.


8 Foot T12 Flourescent ballast Requirements I would like to understand how to evaluate a ballast and determine if it is suitable for a T12 8 foot flourescent bulb.   What is the process / questions to ask?

I have several known good working pulls and new ballasts that were inherited:

The common 8' fluorescent tube is an F96T12 and has 1/4" steel nubs on both ends of the tube.  They take 1 wire per tube end.

You need to look on the ballast at the list of tubes it supports.  If that tube is not on it, then it won't work.

Also, if the ballast diagram calls for 2 wires per lamp end, it cannot support F96T8 which obviously has only 1 wire.  So most of your stash can be immediately excluded.

Also be aware that most ballasts for 8' fluorescents are not the same "form factor" (package mounting bolt positions) as 4' tubes.


When can I seal the picnic table I made from pressure treated lumber? I have just built my very first picnic table (really, my very first anything). I used pressure treated lumber and galvanized hardware.

I would like to seal the table before I put it outside, but I'm told that you need to wait ~ 6 months before sealing pressure treated lumber. This stuff says that you don't need to wait, even on pressure treated lumber (though I can't find it anywhere).

Question: What's best thing to do here? Can I seal it now so it doesn't get discolored?

I used PT lumber for my basement outer walls.  I emailed PT lumber association (yes they have a website) and and asked how long I should wait before I slapped up the drywall. I was told that unless the lumber is in a very humid environment it will lose most of its moisture in 2-3 weeks.  I waited a month to be safe.  If the lumber is outside in warm weather shorter than 2-3 weeks.  They actually said I would be within code within a few days but the 2-3 weeks was just a safety precaution.  I just didn't want moisture hitting the drywall.

There is no arsenic in PT lumber now.   But if it is a picnic table a "sealer" that is good then it will be full of chemicals.  I would almost go with an oil based paint.


Adjustable-height, side-mount, heavy duty casters? Need to move a heavy air compressor I have this 900-lb air compressor on a wooden base I built. At the time I built it, I was able to move it around using a pallet jack. But now it's in a room that's too small to accommodate the pallet jack, and I'm looking for another way to maneuver it into position.

An ideal solution would be a heavy-duty adjustable caster I could side-mount to the platform. I imagine something with a long, threaded stem and a hex head, and a beefy bracket that can accommodate lag screws into the side of this base. Then I could just use a wrench to lower them (thereby raising the platform), push it into position, then raise them back up to lower the compressor. But after an hour of googling, I haven't found anything sufficiently sturdy to do the job.

In the photo you can just make out these three-wheeled dollies. I was going to try to jack it up onto those. They're only rated for 200 lb each, but I'm hoping they'll last long enough to let me put it in position.

Beyond that, what suggestions do you fine folks have?

(P.S.—I had a really hard time finding a tag for this post.)

Update:

I found something called a jacking caster. These are awfully expensive, but it's more-or-less what I was imagining.

Update 2:

Ah! Yes, searching for "jacking swivel caster" is yielding results: http://revvocaster.com/index.php/whats-your-application/40-jacking

What about thinking above instead of to the side? Attach the large casters to a hefty beam that extends wider than the base. The casters would have to be taller than the current top of the base, or spacers added to the beam to make it thus.

The beam then hovers above the base, one beam per side, with long bolts, perhaps lag bolts extending through the beam. As you tighten the bolts into the base, it is lifted from the floor.

This is a suggestion for a temporary transport, although it could be modified or left as-is for permanent movement options.

EDIT: The reference to ten inches of air brought to my alleged mind a product known as an airbag lift:
Amazon link to airbag lift

The text references five hundred pound capacity (per bag) and a 3/32" thickness. You'd have to use a bar to get that space in there, but it's less than an eighth of an inch and certainly doable. Three inch lift capacity means you might have to step-lift your pallet, but you'd eventually get sufficient height to attach ordinary casters within your existing footprint. US$28 isn't particularly expensive.


Should undersink Reverse Osmosis be installed in a leased condominium? Assumption 1. My aunt knows nothing of repair or maintenance or trade work.

She must not change or transform the structure and interior of the condominium in Canada that she is leasing.
Tap water in Canada is normally safe, but  my aunt needs Reverse Osmosis (hereafter RO) water for health reasons.
APEC and Aquasana have both installed/undersink (hooked to water pipes) and portable (countertop) RO systems, but her first choice is the former that purify more.

Subject to the above assumptions, about an undersink RO system:

Is it possible to install it?
Even if so, can she remove and take away it, after the lease's end?

Without a picture of under the sink, it's hard to say if your aunt has room for an undersink RO system or how hard it'd be to install (and subsequently, uninstall). Even in the simplest case, with plenty of room and updated plumbing, RO systems need a supply line, a waste line, and a faucet, all of which a plumber would have to connect to the existing plumbing. Removing all of that when she leaves will be just as much work. Plus, if you had to install a new faucet, that may have required irreversibly modifying the sink or counter-top.

In any case, I really don't think your aunt shouldn't be doing any of this without permission from the landlord. If the plumbing fails and causes damage to the unit or other units, and it's traced back to the unauthorized changes, she could be in real trouble (disclaimer: I'm not a lawyer; that just seems like common sense). You might suggest your aunt talk to her landlord and see if they'll split the cost of installing a RO unit, in exchange for leaving it when she leaves.

Otherwise, I'd say go the counter-top route.


Identifying Wires behind Light Switch I am trying to upgrade my rocker switches to Smart Switches and ran into a problem identifying wires behind the old switches.

It seems that the old switch is connected with a ground and 2 white wires. There is a bundle of black wires capped and sitting inside the box. Everything I've read and have been told is that Neutrals are usually white and Blacks are hot.

What is going on with my wiring and are my hot and neutral colors just reversed? Or is the neutral connected to the switch and the hot capped? Or is there something else weird going on?

Thank you so much in advanced!

Here is a photo of another box. I checked a few of them and they all seem to have the whites running to the switch and the blacks capped and left alone. Still perplexed. I will trace back the wires but could it be that they reversed all of the wire colors in the home?

Your light switches are electrically upside down and backwards

Whoever wired your house clearly hadn't read, or decided to utterly ignore, NEC 404.2(B):

  (B) Grounded Conductors. Switches or circuit breakers shall
  not disconnect the grounded conductor of a circuit.

As a result, you (or a friendly electrician, if you don't feel comfortable taking on a job this repetitive/long-winded yourself) need to switch things around so that the switches in your house have one screw pigtailed to the incoming always-hot black wire and the other screw connected to an outgoing black wire, with the white neutral wires all nutted together in the box, and the grounds all nutted together and pigtailed to all the switches. (If you run into a switch with more than 2 non-bare wires hooked to it, or with a white and a non-white/non-bare wire connected to it, stop and either consult an electrician or post a further question here, as that's a sign you either have a multi-way switch or a switch loop in play, which complicates things.)

What are the consequences?

While switching the neutral seems to work, as you have noticed by the fact all your lights seem to work fine, it's prohibited by the NEC due to the hazard it poses to clumsy lightbulb changers.  You see, on an Edison (screw) base lamp socket, the "button" in the base is connected to the hot, and the screw-shell is connected to the neutral.  This way, you won't get "bit" if you are trying to unscrew a bulb and accidentally make contact with the threaded metal part as you are doing so.  However, it's possible for a bulb to bottom out in the socket with threads still exposed, so if you grab the bulb and get a finger on the threaded metal part, it's possible to get zapped through the bulb.  Normally, this is only a hazard if the switch is on, and changing lightbulbs with the light switch on is a problem for several reasons, so it's normal common sense that one turns the light off before changing the bulb, no?

Well....bzzt!  The wiring error in your house, with the neutrals to your lights switched, defeats that precaution, leaving the lightbulb and socket "live" and capable of shocking you, despite the switch being off!  This is why switching the neutral has been prohibited by NEC 404.2(A) and (B) since the 1920s(!): it poses a clear shock hazard to anyone trying to use the switch as a disconnecting means to safely service a light fixture, or worse yet, a wired-in switched appliance!

How to figure out which wire is hot (for future reference)

The way a box like the first one can be decoded is using a multimeter; find whichever cable feeds the most switches with one of its wires, then take voltage measurements across all the wires in the cable.  In a /2 cable like the OP's, one wire will measure ~120VAC to the other wires: this is the hot.  We can then presume that the bare/green wire is a ground, and assume the other insulated wire is the neutral; checking to see if a ground actually is grounded is harder to do, though.


How do I secure a shower curtain rod? In my bathroom I have one of those spring-loaded shower curtain rods that you twist to get tight. When any real weight is on it, it moves, and if it moves enough, the whole thing comes crashing down.

Where do I find a non-spring loaded rod and fixtures to secure it to the walls? This seems like a silly question to me, but I've never seen anything but the spring loaded rods in the big box stores. Am I just missing them? Or is this somehow a specialty item?

You can buy brackets like this one that attach to the walls.  You still use a spring loaded rod, but the ends go into the brackets and the brackets keep the rod from falling.

Typically the brackets are attached to the wall with standard drywall anchors.


What's that dripping sound I hear in the attic whenever we turn on the water? Obviously it has something to do with water, but I haven't been able to track it down.

Basically, whenever someone turns on the water in my house, I hear a dripping sound coming from the ceiling above the living room.  At first it sounds like a fast drip, then gradually slows down and stops.  This is over a period of 30-45 seconds.  If the water's running longer than that, there is no dripping sound.

I've gone up into the attic to look around but we haven't been able to replicate the issue while I've been up there.  Whatever is causing the noise apparently has a "cooldown" period of some sort.

What could this be?  At first I thought it was a leak, but then wouldn't it be dripping all the time and not stop after 30-45 seconds while the water is still running?  (and shouldn't I have had a flooded attic by now?).

Sounds like a pipe expanding or contracting to me.  When the water runs through the pipes (even the drains), the temperature change causes the pipes to move.  Usually where they are passing through a wood surface, you'll hear an occasional sound, not unlike a drip, that will stop when the pipe reaches it's final temperature.

If the sound coincides with the hot water reaching the fixture (or extra cold water from outside in the winter) then you shouldn't have anything to worry about.


Troubleshooting electric pump that triggers GFCI I have a submersible pool cover pump that keeps triggering the GFCI outlet.  I know the pump is the problem because I have another, identical pump that does not trigger the outlet.  I'd like to try to repair the pump. I assume there's a short in it somewhere but how do I find it? Can anyone make suggestions for troubleshooting steps?

It's not about a short.  It's about insulation leakage.  Tear it down and look for any place where electricity is able to contact where it should not, or places where debris is able to form a conductive path where it should not.   You can paint it with insulating paint, or epoxy.


Does Chicago building code allow open ceiling joists in a finished basement? I'm finishing the basement of a triplex condo in Chicago (townhouse style with a shared entry/common space with one unit). The developer didn't consider a future finished basement when it was it was converted to condos 20 years ago so there are conduit and pipes running under the joists.

Due to the low ceiling and the fact there would be soffits littered all over the ceiling, I plan on spraying the ceiling black (it actually looks surprisingly good). Before I do it, I want to make sure Chicago allows open joists in a living space.

There is fire resistant drywall on the ceiling near the water heater and furnace that will remain. Also, the new bathroom will have a finished ceiling. Joists have 16" spacing. The work is permitted so there will be a final inspection. Thanks!

Most 1 and 2 family units are non-rated construction. Triplexes (3 living units) and up require fire sprinklers, fire party walls, etc. (See ICC Chapter 3)

There are exceptions where the structure is built within the “setbacks” and the walls and portions of the floor, ceilings, roofs require fire rated construction.

In your case, due to the proximity of the 3 units to each other, I’d guess you’d need fire walls (and doors, openings, etc.) between units, but not ceilings.

If you have a Building Permit, I’d call your Building Department and give them your Permit number and ask if ceilings are required. They are there to help and don’t want a redo either.


How to install baseboard at the transition between floors with different height? Recently I replaced the carpet with engineered floor. However, now I met the difficult to install the baseboard between the two floors with different height.

See the picture:

I don't know what's the standard way to handle such scenario beautifully. Any advice is appreciated very much.

This can be a tough problem to work out in a situation like this. Particularly if you are trying to run the same type and size of molding from one floor area through to the other. What I have done in instances where the height changes are small is to simply trim the bottom of the molding so it fit into place over a distance such that the it slopes from one height to the other. If the slope is small and over enough of a distance it will never be noticed by anyone but you (unless you point it out to others :^) ).

Installing the sloped molding piece does impose some interesting work with making the miter cuts on the ends. It may also involve some planing and sanding of the molding surfaces at the joint to blend it around the corner. (BTW you will be a long way ahead with this type of "blend to fit" with real wooden baseboard. MDF or plastic foam type baseboard fails miserably when this is attempted).

I see that the existing darker colored floor has baseboard without any base shoe molding. You may want to consider the addition of base shoe molding in the new area because it can play an essential role of covering up what you have to do along the bottom of the baseboard to slope it from one height to the other across the transition zone. It is acceptable to bring the base shoe molding up through the transition zone and then just cut it back off at an angle at the end of its run.


Can i connect 14-2 wire to the current 12-2 wire in this case? i have already had 12-2 wire running through my garage. Now i have a small shed which is 50 feet away from the garage. My plan is to dismantle one of the outlet in the garage which is where the 12-2 wire ends. From there, i will:

Install a switch at the old outlet place (That switch will play a role as a circuit breaker for the whole shed)
Start connecting my 14-2 wire to my shed.
In the shed there would be only 1 more outlet which i use mostly for charging tools.

The reason i use 14-2 wire is because I have a 100ft of 14-2 wire UF from my friend and i do not want to waste it.

Just wonder, is that OK to do as above? Please advise, thanks a lot.

That is fine.  Whichever circuit breaker feeds that entire circuit, must be replaced with a 15A breaker.  The presence of any 14AWG wire anywhere in the circuit requires the breaker be 15A.

I don't know what you had in mind with the switch, but switches are not circuit breakers.

If you plan to use a full 15A in the shed, a common $1 switch will not handle that, you'd need to upgrade to a $7ish heavy duty switch.


Why does my furnace have different startup sounds after maintenance? Our house has a 15 year old gas furnace. When it fires up, you can hear this series of events:

A fan blowing
A few clicks
Steady blue flames
A big whoosh (like the sound of something going up in flames)
Then it blows hot air, cycling off and on every 5-10 minutes, unable to heat above 67 degrees.

I went in to do a little winter maintenance--changing the filter, removing debris, and so on. Now, when firing up, the first three steps are the same (blowing air, a few clicks, then blue flames). But, now there's no big whoosh and the hot air blows steadily until the house reaches the desired temperature.

In short, we're happier with it now. But, I wanted to make sure that we didn't disable something important by eliminating the big whoosh noise and the cycling off and on.

If you've got a hunch, please weigh in.

Thanks!

Disclaimer: I am not a HVAC technician, and this is speculation on very little information.

I am guessing that what you describe as “like an amplified version of burners flames on a stove” is mostly the sound of the gas flowing through the piping and burners, not the combustion itself.

The “big whoosh”, then, is when the not-yet-burning gas reaches the igniter, and a bunch of gas ignites all at once (causing a noise as the gas and air becomes very much hotter and expands).

If there is less “big whoosh” but the furnace is doing its heating job, that suggests that the gas is igniting more promptly with less accumulation of unburned gas, which is, all else being equal, a good thing.

I would suggest that to further settle your mind you should look at the flames. They should be blue (with perhaps occasional orange flickers but not continuous ones) and in a neat row, and when they ignite they should not spill back out of the burner and heat exchanger area even for an instant. Don't remove anything other than the usual outer access panels to get a look, as it might change the airflow away from normal.


how to know if the water valve connection is metal or plastic? I am buying a new dishwasher. The installation requires a metal connection to the existing water valve. How do i know if i have a metal or plastic connection?

You look at it, and feel it. That looks very much like a plastic valve, based on the color, the mold seals and the details molded into it.

Does it look like plastic, or does it look like metal?