Should I use a roller or a brush for painting exterior walls? I'm about to embark on painting my house. I have researched all the info here and on painting sites I can find about preparation and safety etc., but I'm still not sure the best choice regarding applying the actual paint itself.

I have HardiPlanks on the outside similar to this image but an older model of the planks so the chamfer isn't quite as pronounced.

I'm wondering should I just get a Big Brushes (125mm?) or should I cut in under each plank and around windows, then roller what I can, or just do the lot with brushes?

You absolutely want to use a brush for most exterior surfaces, and definitely the siding and trim.  The only time to ever use a roller is on a large flat surface (think drywall, or plywood paneling) -- in the image you provided I might use a roller for the white soffit, but that's it and only if it's a large house.

Aside from avoiding unsightly "orange peel" effect that a roller will undoubtedly case, applying the paint back and forth with a paintbrush will work the paint into the surface of the product in a way that a pass over the top with a roller will not.  This is especially true with wood surfaces, but generally true with most surfaces.  Just imagine being paint on a relatively smooth surface.  Wouldn't it be easier to peel if you were rolled on in one large sheet, than if you were brushed on and worked into the surface with each brushstroke?

Exceptions to the rule, for exterior surfaces are:

Concrete - I roll foundations and cement block with 1" nap roller
"Cedar Shake" siding (think Cape Cod) where I apply the paint with a 1-1.25" nap roller, then backbrush to work it into the siding and catch drips (this is much faster than brushing, and higher quality than spraying)
Large soffits or areas where I'm working over my head for long periods
T111 siding, vertical barn siding, etc, but in all cases I backbrush

Definitely buy a 4" brush for this project.


How can I mount a TV when I can't find studs inside my wall? WARNING: I'm not the greatest handyman.

I bought a TV mount the other day, expecting to hang my heavy 40" TV above the fireplace. However, the instructions specifically say to first screw the mount into the studs in the wall. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have any (according to my brand-new seemingly-functional stud finder).

Installing studs into the wall is not an option, and the TV is relatively heavy. My question is: What other options do I have? Could plugs possibly do the trick?

If you have a wall, you have structure.

If your wall is masonry then the TV mount can likely be mounted directly to the masonry (or mounts are available which can).

If your wall is drywall then you must have structure behind it... perhaps your studfinder is malfunctioning or you're using it improperly?

Studs can usually be found beside original electrical boxes (as the boxes are mounted to the side of the stud). Check your stud-finder against both sides of a nearby electrical socket for functionality. If you cannot locate a stud, try tapping a small nail into the wall board near an existing fixture. If it meets resistance behind the wall-board then you have a stud. Wall studs should be spaced in regular intervals (usually 16" on center in the US) so you can simply measure over to your mount area to locate them.

Once you believe you have found studs simple repeat the above test: tap in a small nail to verify structure behind the wall board. Studs should be 1.5 inches wide, so check that you can mark both sides of the side (to mount into the middle).

You may need to tap many small holes to accomplish this without an adequate stud finder.


When hanging a double layer of drywall, do both layers need to be fully screwed to the resilient channel? When adding a second layer of drywall to a ceiling, do I need to screw the first layer to the surface with the appropriate number of fasteners ( type S screws into resilient channel ) as code dictates or will the fasteners from the second layer puncturing the first layer suffice?

Full info

Two layers of 5/8" type-x drywall w/ green glue attached to 1/2" double-leg resilient channel. The first layer uses 1" Type-S screws while the second layer uses 1 5/8" Type-S screws.

Yes, both sets of screws are required.

Two layers of gypsum board is generally used for two hour fire wall protection. The protection (and rating) comes from the proper installation, including proper nailing for both layers. If a fire develops and causes the top layer to fall, then the second layer would not have approved fastening to develop the two hour rating.

If the second layer is used for sound control, then no, the additional fastening is not required. (Sound control is developed in the material, not the fasteners.)


How to repair damage to MDF baseboard trim About a week ago while I was mopping the tile floors a part of my baseboard swelled up, which I thought was weird. Today I decide to cut the bubbled part out and when I did all that came out was this fuzzy material. Any ideas on what type of baseboard this is and how do I repair the it?
Thanks in advance

That looks like MDF baseboard, which is very porous and will swell when it gets wet.  It looks like there was a way for the water from your mopping to wick into the baseboard (likely a nick or cut in the factory finish).

To repair the paint, you'll need to sand the swollen part down flush to the surface. If you find yourself having a hard time getting it smooth or the fuzziness doesn't go away after sanding, skim the top of the damaged area with very thin layer of wood putty and feather it out, then sand smooth.

MDF likes to suck up paint too, so I'd use an oil based primer before finish coating.  It's possible that the paint might raise the surface a tiny bit and make it rough after priming, so lightly sand with 200 grit sandpaper after the primer is fully cured.

Finally, make sure that you don't have to repeat this process at some point in the future.  If this is in an area where there is a good chance the floor will get wet, make sure the caulking between the baseboard and tile is sound - particularly where the grout lines run underneath it.


Can studs be 2-4 inches apart? While preparing for a TV mounting on a wall, I've read on various answers here that the standard spacing is 16 or 24 inches between studs. I've run into a weird situation where there are 3 studs A, B, C. Distance between A and B is 6 inches, and B and C is 16 inches.
Is it possible to have two studs only 6 inches apart? I'm just trying to ensure my stud finder is not detecting a PVC pipe or something.
I'm trying to look for the closest two studs to the center of the room for a TV mount and they turn out to be A and C, but looking for some help to see how to ensure it's indeed a stud and nothing else.
This is the stud finder I'm using.
Edit:
Wow! what an awesome response! Given the interest, I decided to go through the entire wall using my stud finder and map out all the studs (or at least that I think are studs). I then annotated it on the pic I took of the wall where I'm trying to put the TV. Pic attached. A few notes:

2001 construction

This is on the 2nd floor, and I have access to the attic above this ceiling.

Studs are at varying spacing across the wall.

Studs A, B, C in my original post are 4,5,6 in this pic.

Stud #9 shows 1-2 inches wide by the stud finder.

I did the 'knock, knock, Thud!' test and it sounds almost identical for all studs.

As you can see, I'd like to use stud#4,6 for mounting the TV Mount plate. So the main stud in question is #4. I think #5 is surely a stud as that's what the outlet is attached to. I want to avoid using stud 5,6 since that puts the TV off-center by 6-7". Any further help would be appreciated!

Yes.   They can be however far apart the builder wants them.   I have used 3-4 studs within 16" when doing bathrooms, high traffic corner, in bathrooms for showers... and have installed an extra stud because of a previous mistake.
I only use magnetic stud finder (finds your screws).
If you use a method and you just aren't 100% sure the best thing to do is a test with a monkeyhook.   These take literally 10 seconds to test with no equipment and only leave a tiny pinhole.   If you hit something... boom got a stud.   If you don't no one will notice (you can cover the pinholes with similar colored toothpaste!).   Also monkeyhooks are great for holding smaller picture frames.
Also adding based on comments on plumbing:

Paramagnetic metals are weakly attracted to magnets, and include
platinum, tungsten, aluminum and magnesium. Ferrimagnetic metals like
magnetite are also attracted to magnets, while diamagnetic metals like
silver and copper are repelled by them.

Your magnet will slightly repel (and have tested) on copper (obviously stud finder or magnetic stud finder will not find pex).
To add specifically to mounting:  You can remove drywall and add cross bracing.   You are basically ruining that small section anyway.   If you want to beef it up - it takes 30 mins.


What kind of bug is this? I apologize for the poor photos but if anyone can figure out what type of bug this is that would be a great help! I was sweeping the other night and when I looked down at my pile I realized some specks were moving!  Upon closer inspection, they were a bunch of tiny bugs! I would say as small as if you were to dot an i.  There were about 30 of them. Tonight, after sweeping some more in an additional area (I removed the children's playmat) we found some more!

Everyone is bite free. Though my son has had bites on his face and legs recently but we think they're mosquito bites (since we found one or two around the apartment).

Extra Info:
They are not located near the bedrooms or bed. I live in a second floor apartment in NYC. I feel like they might mostly resemble fleas - they're not as wide across as a bed beg.

The closest match I could find is the Toe-winged Beetle. 2-16 mm in size. Large antennae, mainly a tropical, outdoor beetle. Your example looks to be about 2 mm.

http://bugguide.net/node/view/13057


Recommendation for power cord replacement plugs Can anyone recommend a good quality brand of replacement plugs for power cords?

I've used them for...

power tools
equipment (120 and 240)
extension cords (up to 50 amp)
etc.

...and the ones they sell at local stores are just cheap!

Not inexpensive, cheap! :-)

I've had issues with everything from the housings breaking and screws stripping or loosening to problems with the strain relief.

So any recommendations would be appreciated

Thanks

A proper electrical supply house is the best we can advise.   Retail shops with well lighted parking lots, exciting products on the endcaps, and candy at the  counter tend to also buy the cheapest products they can possibly get that won't be  returned at excessive rates.  And who returns a $7 plug?

You initially shop there for the bargain prices until it becomes habit, but those bargain prices don't come from buying in bulk the way the mythology says.  They come from going overseas and buying products that barely clear safety codes and are not factored for usability.


How to pond concrete I recently got interested in making pots out of cement. The most practical curing method for me is ponding/submergence. When is concrete ready to pond, how can I tell when it's ready, and what should I do with it in the mean time? And can/should I remove it from the mold before submerging? I'm using a normal, higher strength cement mix you could find at a hardware store if it matters

Once the pour is set you can remove from the mold and submerge, I help a friend that has yard art molds he submerges some pieces, not all, for strength especially in the warmer weather. The molds release easier when the mix is set but still green or not fully cured leaving the form on longer makes it harder to clean.


Tankless water heater causes magnets (ceiling fans, induction oven) to hum while actively heating water I replaced a tankless water heater with the same model, but a couple of years newer. (The original was damaged by careless house painters). This is a 13 kw Rheem unit and on its own circuit.
Since that time, when we run the hot water in any location and turn on the induction stovetop or larger overhead ceiling fan, we hear a very noticeable hum.  This was not apparent with the earlier tankless. We've had professionals come over and tell us that it looks good from an electrical perspective and to call an appliance repair shop. Any suggestions?

The problem is probably that the new unit uses solid-state control to vary the power delivered to the heating elements, which makes it more energy-efficient than the old-fashioned on/off control. Those solid-state controllers are notorious for introducing harmonic "noise" on the mains, and a 13 kW one could easily affect other circuits fed from the same main breaker panel. Resistive loads like heaters and incandescent lights aren't affected much, but loud humming from magnetic/inductive loads is textbook harmonic interference.
The first thing I'd try is complain to Rheem about excessive harmonic noise. An expensive brand-name water heater should have some built-in EMI (Electro-Magnetic Interference) filtering to minimize the effect. If it's making your induction stove sing, it's definitely "excessive" harmonics, and it might possibly even damage sensitive electronics plugged in elsewhere in the house. (That's not very likely, but is technically possible, and if needed it might make a useful line of argument to get Rheem motivated to take you seriously.)
The traditional way to eliminate harmonic interference (used with industrial VFD variable-frequency motor controllers, for example) is to connect the "noisy load" (your water heater) via a harmonic filter or isolation transformer. That's very effective, but I can't say I've ever seen a 13 kW harmonic isolation transformer marketed toward residential use... and the cost may be prohibitive. Industrial electrical suppliers and data-center power-supply companies are the obvious place to start looking if you go that route.


Water seepage around the water main pipe's underground entry hole thru concrete foundation So lately with all the hurricane rainstorms, I noticed that some ground water was seeping in from around the pipe where the water main pipe comes into the house's basement. I think this seems to happen only when there's really prolonged heavy rain, and the soil gets saturated enough with water. Unfortunately, the exterior of where the main water pipe comes in is like 6-7 feet underground. How/can I go about fixing this from the interior?

I'd shut off the water from the outside, remove that PVC repair sleeve and clean/scrape all the gunk off the wall and pipe. Clean out the space between the pipe and wall as good as possible. Then get some Wet patch or Siliconizer and meticulously fill the crack between the wall and pipe, compacting the filler as you go. Then apply a final coat over the wall area around the pipe. Install your repair sleeve or sweat a copper repair sleeve or Sharkbite connector and wait for rain.


venting kitchen sink in a cabin e have a small cabin on a lake that as mainly used for weekends. Now that we have retired we have been living here full time. Our kitchen sink goes from under the sink, out the wall and into a gray water catchment. There is no vent and it empties very slowly. I have a 2 sided sink and it will come up on both sides when it drains. My husband say that since it goes out from the sink and straight out the wall and straight down that it doesn't need a vent. I say that when it goes out the wall their sound be a vent on that pipe so the water runs faster and doesn't back up into the other side o the sink too.Couldn't we put a connector on the pipe outside of the wall that has 2 openings? One or the pipe going down and one for a vent line?

A better option might be adding an Air Admittance Valve under the sink.  It will just take a little bit of work to change the pipe between the p-trap and wall.


Is it safe to clamp an angle grinder and bring the work to the tool? I’ve got a hand-held angle grinder (Makita LXT, 5”).
I’m using a wire brush in it to finish a long thin bit of steel (rectangular profile, about 3ft long, 5x15mm tapering to 5x5mm - it’s a sword blade, but it’s not sharp, so that’s probably not relevant)

It’s proving difficult to clamp the workpiece as it’s very thin. (Before everyone suggests ways to clamp it - I’ve got a metalwork vice, but I’ve not got anywhere to fit it outside where I use the grinder, so I’m using g-clamps. Also clamping round the part I’m working on means the grinder is mainly in contact with the clamp, which wastes effort and makes controlling the grinder harder. It’s difficult to grind beyond where it’s clamped as it resonates. So the most effective method has been clamping either side of the part I’m working on, but this is difficult).

I think it’d be easier if the grinder was fixed, and I brought the work piece to the grinder - I’d be able to hold it either side of the part I’m working on, and to feel the movement of the workpiece and compensate.

However, I’m conscious that this isn’t what the tool was designed for, but I know bench grinders do exist (I don’t have a bench grinder), and I think they give more control (which i presume is why they’re used for sharpening knives etc). Is this approach safe? If so, are there any precautions I should take?

I do not think anyone should recommend that someone try clamping an angle grinder to a table rather than buying the correct entry-level tool (a bench grinder).

While clamping an angle grinder to a table could probably be done, the effort and skill required to make a clamping jig that reliably holds an angle grinder in place is high and the risks of doing it wrong are even higher. The jig likely requires wood or steel working tools where you would have already had a bench grinder in your shop for years before buying the tools required to make a jig to clamp an angle grinder.

To outline the risks: Basically, if the grinder comes loose while you are working with your fingers next to it, then your fingers are instantly a mangled mess either by the blade or by getting them crushed in the spindle.


How do I repair a chain link fence? A wind storm took down one of the trees on our property and it landed across a chain link fence

Given the height of the tree, the overall damage was fairly limited.  I have attached pictures with tree on and off of the fence.

Given that a tree mushed it, the fence seems to have reasonably little damage -- the top rail is obviously toast along with two post caps but the posts themselves did not move.  I believe that the fence is 48" high, galvanized.

The question I have is how much work would this repair be and how would I go about it?  The chain link fencing itself is pretty mushed.  Does it make sense to try to bend it back or should I weave a new section in?  Would the fence need to be re-stretched?

At the moment, I am trying to decide if this is a DIY project or if I should have a pro come in.

I think the answer depends on what "pretty mushed" means. And before you read on, here's a caveat: my sole experience with chain link fences is taking them down, not putting them up (but I've taken down quite a few :-)).

That said, my experience is that the links will collapse in on one another, not actually bend. Which means that the fencing as a whole can be straightened out again. Also, even though the posts appear untouched, you should ensure that they're plumb.

The rails are easy to replace; every home center should carry them, as well as the caps and other accessories. The important piece that you'll need is a coupling: a short section of pipe that fits snugly over the ends of two existing pieces, to join them together (in the fences that I've disassembled, this is just press fit, not welded or brazed, but I suspect a dab of epoxy would help).

Cut the existing rails with a reciprocating saw, close to the existing rails that still have caps (you could also use a hacksaw; you won't be able to get enough clearance to use a pipe cutter). Slide the new section(s) of rail through the caps, attach them to the posts, cut to length, and slide the coupling in place.

That just leaves re-attaching the fencing. I think that you can stretch it to the rail using baling wire and a pair of pliers: loop the wire through fence and rail, and twist it to take up all slack. Then attach normally.


What is this stuff at the bottom of my brine tank? There is this brown silt/sediment on the salt pellets at the bottom of my brine tank.  What is that?

Usually a brown color discoloration in a water system, such as a softener unit, is due to iron. Iron combines with oxygen to form iron oxide which is reddish brown in color.

You may be more familiar with rust on metal parts made of iron. Rust is simply iron oxide.


Is ceiling fan missing grounding wire from the ceiling box, and is this safe? I recently had a contractor/handyman install a Hunter ceiling fan for me. It worked great, but my wife came home and thought it was too big.  I ordered a different Hunter fan, and figured I could install the new one myself, using his wiring as a guide while also following the manual.

My experience with electrical wiring is pretty minimal, but I feel comfortable following the directions, using wire connectors, etc.

The directions call for connecting 3 wires from the ceiling box, but there appears to be only 2.  The contractor connected the black ("ungrounded") ceiling wire to the black and blue wire (light and motor) of the fan.  He also connencted a composite of 3 white wires ("grounded") from the ceiling to the white wire of the fan.

However, the directions also call for connecting a "grounding" wire from the ceiling (supposedly green, green/yellow, or bare copper) to a green/yellow striped wire from the fan and a green/yellow striped wire from the metal hanging bracket.  The contractor connected the 2 green/yellow wires of the fan and metal hanging bracket together, but did not connect anything to the ceiling box.  From what I can tell, this was not an omission, as I couldn't find any other wires coming from the box.

This surprised me.  The fan worked fine like this, but I'm afraid the fan may not be adequately grounded.  Or is grounding the fan to the metal bracket sufficient?

My plan was to hook it back up the way he had it, but I just want to make sure this is safe.

Thanks.

In a perfect world, with perfect electronics, there would be no need for a grounding conductor.  It's there to deal with imperfections.  The most likely case for a ground fault in this installation would be if the black conductor lost some insulation and shorted itself against the frame of the fan.  In such a situation, the casing could become electrified, and a grounded person, touching the fan body could receive a shock.

If it were properly grounded, you'd get a short circuit to the ground wire, and the breaker would trip.

However, the fan is mounted to the ceiling, and the possibility of someone touching it is low.  (Unlike, for example, the frame of a fridge or stove, where human contact is part of normal operation.)

So, Is it safe? Quite likely.  For added safety, turn the wall switch off when changing bulbs.  Is it to code? No. -- Unless, as others have suggested in comments, the mounting box is grounded on the other side.

You can however, locate the breaker, and replace it with a Ground Fault Interrupt breaker, which would trip should a ground fault occur.  This isn't something you should do yourself unless you have experience working in the panel.

Another possibility, if your switch happens to be chained off of an outlet, which is quite possible, depending on the routing of the wiring on that circuit, is to replace the outlet with a GFCI outlet, and wire the switch to the load side of it.


Uh oh. I've just noticed flying termites around my new outdoor office. What is a cost-efficient way to protect it? I recently finished building an outdoor shed/office:

The porch is redwood.  The structure itself is "nordic spruce"

I have not painted the outside yet (I'm planning to do that soon) but I've already noticed some flying termites nearby (about 5 or 6 were caught in a spider web). I haven't seen any indications of actual wood damage/penetration but this still makes me very nervous.

Is there anything I can do to try to protect the structure?

Researching online hasn't been particularly helpful.  From what I've found, my options include:

Hiring an exterminator - I'm not sure if this would be particularly useful since I'm not seeing actual indications of termite damage. I also don't have a lot of money to spend. :-(
Using pesticides around the perimeter of the structure -  It's unclear to me if that would actually do anything to protect the walls or if that would only protect the treated lumber foundation.
Adding a chemical repellent additive to paint. - Is this a gimmick? Or does it actually help?
Using non-toxic alternatives - Orange oil, etc.  I question whether these would be powerful enough.
Using bait - Stakes in the ground to attract/kill termites

Disclaimer: I could very well be overreacting here.

For starters, that's a really amazing shed!

As for the termites, they're swarming. This is natural in termite areas. They're looking for wet or rotting wood to start a new nest.

So, odds are you should have nothing to worry about with the new shed, as hopefully none of it is rotting yet. None of your options will really have any impact on swarming termites...and really are only options if you already have a termite problem in your structure.


Grounding a subpanel using existing wiring I had a 60 amp breaker that was connected to an oven in the kitchen. Since this is no longer needed, I'm trying to re-purpose this #6 wire to connect to a new Electric water heater I'm putting in the basement. Putting any new wires will require me to break up the basement ceilings which I'd avoid if possible. So, I decided to put up a sub panel in the basement (about 15 feet from the main panel) and connect this 60 amp 6 gauge wire to the subpanel and add a 30 amp breaker connected to 10/3 wire to the new heat pump/water heater (35 ft away in the basement). But the original #6 wire only had a 2 hot and a neutral coming into the sub panel, no separate ground wire included. This house was built in the 80's and probably these wiring were done around the same time.

So, my question is this... how do I take care of the ground in the subpanel. The new electric water heater only takes 2 hot and a ground connection (no neutral needed). But, I'm only getting the neutral(and 2 hots) from the main panel and I don't really have anything to ground it to in the basement where this sub panel will be located. Is it mandatory to ground the subpanel separately? What's my best option here?

Thanks!

Retrofit ground. Bada-bing.

Code specifically allows you to retrofit ground in a case like this.

Given that it's a 60A subpanel, you need to get a #10 ground wire between the subpanel's ground bar and the main panel's ground bar (which may also be its neutral bar, since neutral and ground bars are to be bonded in a main panel).  As you probably know, in the subpanel you must keep neutral and ground fastidiously separate.

The ground wire may follow any reasonable path.  It may be legal to route to the grounding electrode system or another branch circuit's #10 ground wire instead, but I recommend going to the panel because this is a subpanel.


What is the difference between floor and subfloor? Is subfloor a part of floor? Consider the following image (img_1)

I guess the whole thing is called a floor framing system and subfloor is a part of the system. So subfloor is a part of floor. is my understanding right?

Subfloor is a part of the floor but has a different purpose. Without a solid sheet that spans the joints and the ends are supported, how can you install tile or wood flooring? In the oldest residential constructions I’ve seen, they used either two layers of thick wood planks (bottom acting as a subfloor) or boards run diagonally as the subfloor. Today, we almost exclusively see OSB, but the purpose is the same. It provides even support for the floor.


Why does my dishwasher make a singing / whistling sound I own an LG dishwasher about 2 years old (model LDF8874ST).

I have used this dishwasher regularly and have been really impressed with how quiet it runs. So it was very obvious when in the last couple of weeks it started to make a high-pitched noise when running (almost like whistling or singing). Can anyone please advise on possible causes?

Sure sounds like a worn-out bushing / bearing pack. The squeal will get worse with time and become a screech. If it is a worn out drive belt the issue is just as complex. I have looked at LG's site for this product and it seems that this is definitely NOT a DIY job. LG offers tech support and possibly repair locations. Unless you are an expert at replacing bearing packs / belts and have a lot of specialized tools, I would send it out for repair, or you might have the option of an in-house repair.


Add new main load center for EV charging I need to add an EV level 2 charger. Among other reasons, I just overloaded the garage circuit, frying a GFCI outlet when charging my BMW i3 and golf cart at the same time.

I'd like the wiring to be non-visible, so no surface conduit.  After some deliberation, the seemingly best solution I've came up with is to add a new load center onto my main feed from the transfer switch.  The load center (shown in yellow below) would be located directly below the transfer switch in a wall void where I'd have easy access to wire everything up.  2x 6-50 outlets would be beside the load center.

The would avoid wiring through the exterior wall, tearing up insulation, notching studs, drywall repairs, etc.  Also, the existing panels are generally full, so I'd have to decommission a circuit (possible), add a subpanel, or do some other trickery to make room regardless.

I'm generally familiar with wire sizing, grounding, conduit requirements, etc.  Stepping down to 4awg feed to the new panel off the 500 mcm main wire is a little concerning, but I read this is just how these things are done, as the feeds to the other panels are also stepped down in conductor size from the 500 mcm.

The main issue I believe to be facing is adding a 100 amp branch off the 400 amp service when two 200 amp branches already exist.  Does the service wire being fused make this OK?  Is the generator wire not protected? (it's a 75kw generator)

What all am I missing here?

If you supply from the 500mcm you could use the 10' tap rule as listed in the NEC 240.21.1 chargers are a continuous load so you would need to size the wire at 125% of the nameplate for the 2 chargers as a minimum (the wire size can not be below 1/10 ampacity but you are fine here) so your plan sounds good.


Can a wood-router be used to cut a shallow groove in concrete? My house walls are primarily made of poured concrete.  To run wire through the walls I need to cut a groove in the concrete then plaster over.
Is it possible to use a bit that can cut (slowly) a groove through the concrete?

This method or running wire is common or standard in parts of Europe/UK.
But the specialized tools to do it are saws, not routers. There are stone-cutting router bits seen in countertop work that might work, but likely far less efficient than using a saw.
There's an older post here someplace that showed a saw for the exact job from Germany...


How to do sink plumbing in the basement? We are working on finishing our basement. We have this area that is perfect for a fridge/counter and maybe a sink.

I'm thinking of leaving space for a fridge on the left, then some cabinet/countertop. Then some overhead cabinets as well.
We are thinking of installing a small sink but I'm questioning how to get a sink to drain due to the positioning of the plumbing. Would we have to get some sort of pump to push the water out?
The pipe pictured overhead comes from the kitchen upstairs.

Then leads to this outlet here that is at least 2 feet from the ground.

Your last pic seems to indicate where the drain exits to the street/septic system. If your sink bowl is enough above that point that you can run a drain line from the sink, with the proper 1/4" per foot slope, and tie it into this drain, you should be fine. If not, then you'll need some sort of lift pump to get the waste water up to that level.
If you're going to end up going with the lift pump, you might consider putting in a bathroom nearby to get more use out of the pump.


Is it against code to create a NM-B to THHN junction inside a conduit body? I'm installing a 60A subpanel in my detached garage. I'll be running 2GA conductors, to leave the possibility of upgrading to 100A service in the future open. The Breaker I'll be using on the main only handles up to 3GA wire, so I was looking to use romex and connect it down the line to my outdoor conductor.

I see the documentation for a conduit body, and part of it says

  Provides openings for making splices and taps in conductors

And another conduit body even has junction box in the name.

if I can save some material/labor (time and money) by not having to install a separate junction box inside the house for this that'd be nice, but this work will be inspected, and above that, we will actually be living here, and I take pride in my work, so I'd like to do this up to code.

You're going to want to use a junction box to switch between nonmetallic sheathed cable, and individual wires.

Conduit body must be marked with volume

The first problem you'll run into while making splices in the conduit body (which isn't likely a problem, since most fittings are labeled), is that you'll have to make sure the conduit body is "durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer with their volume".

  National Electrical Code 2014

  Chapter 3 Wiring Methods and Materials

  Article 314 Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures

  314.16 Number of Conductors in Outlet, Device, and Junction Boxes, and Conduit Bodies.

  (C) Conduit Bodies.

  (2) With Splices, Taps, or Devices. Only those conduit bodies that are durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer with their volume shall be permitted to contain splices, taps, or devices. The maximum number of conductors shall be calculated in accordance with 314.16(B). Conduit bodies shall be supported in a rigid and secure manner.

Cable must be secured to conduit body

The next problem, is that the cable must be secured to the conduit body.

  314.17 Conductors Entering Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings. Conductors entering boxes, conduit bodies, or fittings shall be protected from abrasion and shall comply with 314.17(A) through (D).

  B) Metal Boxes and Conduit Bodies. Where metal boxes or conduit bodies are installed with messenger-supported wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed knob-andtube wiring, conductors shall enter through insulating bushings or, in dry locations, through flexible tubing extending from the last insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamps. Except as provided in 300.15(C), the wiring shall be firmly secured to the box or conduit body. Where raceway or cable is installed with metal boxes or conduit bodies, the raceway or cable shall be secured to such boxes and conduit bodies.

  (C) Nonmetallic Boxes and Conduit Bodies. Nonmetallic boxes and conduit bodies shall be suitable for the lowest temperature-rated conductor entering the box. Where nonmetallic boxes and conduit bodies are used with messengersupported wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed knob-and-tube wiring, the conductors shall enter the box through individual holes. Where flexible tubing is used to enclose the conductors, the tubing shall extend from the last insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. Where nonmetallicsheathed cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp. In all instances, all permitted wiring methods shall be secured to the boxes.

Wet locations

If the conduit body is outside, the AHJ could consider it a wet location.  In this case, you wouldn't be able to have NM cable in the conduit body since it's not allowed in wet locations.

tl;dr

In most cases, you'll install conduit off the back of a Type LB conduit body, through the wall, and connect it to a junction box inside the building.  You'll make your splices in this box, not in the conduit body.


What is the difference between heat lamps and infrared space heaters? Maybe these are pretty much the same thing. I'm interested in the difference between heat lamps and infrared space heaters, especially as regards

How they are normally used
How they should be used
How energy-efficient they are under various conditions

Thanks!

The exact space heater in question would effect answer, generally both use invisible light to heat surfaces rather than heating the air. What varies is how much of the IR is reflected and how much is absorbed by the fixture or lamp then locally projected by the device.
Electrical heat is not very efficient, any watt produces the same heat no matter how dispersed, 3412 btu's per kw/hr.


How safe is my patio and how much weight could it support? I live in a three story apartment. I have a patio which also has a storage off of it. The actual patio is 8 X 10 and made from decking boards. However the exterior corner is supported by a 4 X 4 for three stories. How much weight could that possibly hold? I am a large man and could 3 or 4 guests cause an unsafe situation?

About how much weight could my patio support with one corner being just 4 X 4? Just looking for safe options. I also have plants on my patio which could take up about 200 LBS.

This really needs to be looked at by a structural engineer, or similar qualified person, to give you a load bearing range.  To calculate the load one would need to factor in the size of the wood, the type of the wood, condition of the wood (rot, ...) the overall weight of the structure, and how it is secured to the structure.  I can speak from experience that balconies do collapse from overloading and poor maintenance.  Where I live they had one collapse about 10 years ago and many got hurt.  The codes had to be updated and new rules were made for enforcing them.


LiftMaster Formula 1 intermittent remote control problems We own four of the LiftMaster Formula 1 openers and none of the remotes are battery-powered. (we use the remotes build into the vehicles)
All of the bulbs in the openers are incandescent and the ones in the garage are CFL and the openers have worked flawlessly for years. Of late mine has been really intermittent. I can be parked underneath the opener and open/close the door using  the remote without issue but when I back out it's impossible to close the door even from one foot outside the garage. Then if I leave it open, run an errand and come back X minutes later and accidentally push the remote (on autopilot) it will close the door but then I cannot reopen from the door. Conversely, if I get out of my car, go into the garage and close the door using the hardwired  control then come back X minutes later - my remote will open the door. It's very frustrating and confusing.
I might add that it's been exceptionally hot and humid so  this problem may be moisture related.
Regardless, this same thing happened several years ago and I called our local dealer - they sold me a hard CB radio-like antenna to replace the wire with. Of course as soon as I had it in hand the problem went away so I haven't installed it yet but after reading these posts I don't think it's going to resolve my problems.
Any ideas?  Thanks!

Your system may be experiencing intermittent radio frequency interference from a nearby transmitter or remote control device.


Vented soffit under bay window Background: A bay window has been having ice dam issues for the past couple of years. I think the water is coming in through the space between the gutter and the fascia. That space is just on the inside edge of the bay window. I see water dripping from that space on each side of the bay window, so I assume it must also happen inside the bay window.

I still can't tell the dripping only happens during winter melt, or also during rain storms. I seem to hear "tick tock" water dripping during rain storms as well, but it's hard to tell, and there does not seem to be enough to cause water damage inside. I got insulation added to the attic, which perhaps improved the ice dam issue a bit (or maybe it was just the weather this winter), but there was still a bit of water dripping from the bay window frame inside the house.

2 winters ago, when the ice dam issue was at its worst, there was a bit of water damage in the kitchen ceiling, which is more or less at the same height at the base of the bay window.

I am getting the siding redone around the bay window (to add flashing at the top of the siding and bigger flashing at the top of the window, which will hopefully prevent water from coming in). Also possibly add insulation (its always cold around that bay window area in the winter). The soffit under the bay window is currently unvented (as shown in the picture). The contractor said there is no need for ventilation there and they usually install unvented soffits.

Question: Should I get vented soffits installed, so that water has an easy way out (instead of going towards the kitchen ceiling?) Could that cause issues, or even if vented soffits do not do anything, they at least won't do any harm?

Vented soffit below the window will allow air in, and will reduce the effectiveness of insulation. Other than that, it wouldn't cause a problem, but you're already concerned about the cold near the window.

You should focus on how the water gets in, and prevent that from happening in the first place. It should be fairly easy for your contractor to tell what's been happening once the siding is off. It's hard to tell how things were flashed around the window from your pictures, but it doesn't look like how I'd have done it.

When you have an ice dam, the real concern is water being pushed back up under the shingles. If that's happening, water could be dripping down the internal structure, and vented soffit below the window wouldn't help anyhow. Again, it should hopefully be easy to tell once the siding is off. If you haven't already, mention the water in the house to your contractor, and show them where you've seen it.


How to install a mini split when you have brick walls I want to install a mini-split unit myself. I can't afford to do it any other way and I'm going to die of heat exhaustion if I fail because these window units just aren't doing the trick.

The only problem is all of the guides say to drill a hole in the wall. My house is all brick.

What am I supposed to do? Should I just run the hoses through the window or can I / should I drill a hole through the brick wall?

You can drill small holes through a typical masonry wall without compromising its load-bearing.

Assuming the holes are no more than a few inches in diameter, well spaced apart and are few in number, there should be no problem.

If in doubt, ask an engineer.


What do I use to fill in the crack between the wall and floor of my tiled bathrooms? Yesterday I had an energy audit performed on my home which revealed sever leakage of air from the floors in both my bathrooms. The inspector told me to fill the cracks but was vague as to what would be the proper materials to do the job…

Master Bathroom is Tile floor and Tile wall (see image below)

The main Bathroom is Tile floor to a wood moulding on the wall (see image below)

The inspector mentioned getting cement sealant for the master bathroom and using regular transparent caulking for the main bathroom – would this be recommended?

I found in the basement the grout that the previous owner used when he installed it, actually there are two bags:

Mapei Keracolor U polymer modified premium grad unhanded grout
Mapei ceramic to tile wall grout (unsanded)

Should I be using either of these?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

In the bath with the tile base, there is caulk available that is colored to closely resemble a number of colored grouts. Any of the big box stores will carry a good selection of colors.
The wood base will need only a good version of white painters caulk, wiped in with a dampened cloth to make the line only in the joint. I forgot to add this detail about the tile base.


Adding recessed lighting to room with ceiling fan/light already installed Ok,

First off I have done small electrical projects like add outlets, but never anything major. I have a loft with a ceiling fan/light that is just not bright enough to light up the entire room. The light is controlled by one switch, the fan by another. The house is 10 years old running 14/2 to the switches.

I would like to add a few LED recessed lights into the room to brighten it up a bit, and would like them to be on their own dimmer switch.

Can I wire the Fan/Light into one switch from one hot wire, then use the extra hot wire connected to the other switch to then power the series of LED can lights (then pig tail the neutral and ground)? Attached is a diagram of my proposed wiring.
Obviously I want to stay within code to be safe.
Thanks guys/gals!

Sterling

That will work. Code depends on where you live, but I can't see anything wrong with making the junction away from the switch.

You might have issues doing all this in the fan box. It might be cleaner to put a small box in the ceiling and do your connections, then have a small run down to the fan.

And be smart with placement of recessed lighting above a fan. You can get a strobing effect which is annoying (and gives some folks headaches).


How to remove sink faucet pipe from shutoff? I am currently attempting to replace the faucet in my kitchen. I successfully removed the hot water pipe that goes from the old faucet to the hot water shutoff. I am now trying to remove the cold water pipe from the cold water shutoff and I ran into a problem. I thought that when I removed the nut pictured in my thumb the pipe would just come right out from the shutoff, however only the nut came loose and it looks like the pipe from the old faucet is still inside the water shutoff valve. I have tried to pull the faucet pipe out from the shutoff but it appears to be stuck pretty bad. Every time I pull the faucet pipe, it pulls the whole water shutoff and I am afraid that if I pull too hard I'll break the sink pipe or the water shutoff pipe. Does anyone have any tips to help me remove the sink pipe from the water shutoff?

Thank you,
Justin

Take a large pair of diagonal wire cutters and about 3" above the shut off valve cut the faucet riser pipe in two.  Now carefully use a pair of common pliers, jaws  clamped around the riser pipe stub, swivel the stub back and forth a few degrees, at the same time lifting and rocking.


How can I tape drywall joints at the ceiling with existing texture? I am redoing my subbasement. Originally the inside corner where the wall meets the ceiling was not taped and jointed. Some floor trim was used as a poor man's version of crown molding, and it is hideous.

I am taking down the trim and wanting to fill in the gaps where the joints were not properly done. Both the wall and the ceiling have been textured. Is there a way to properly do the joint without having the scrape off the texture?

Or you can caulk the joints and smooth it out. Use a caulk you can paint over when dry.


Information on hooking up a fax machine My friend is trying to hook up his new hp fax machine without a phone, he has a 2 pin phone cable running from his modem to his inlet line 1 on his fax machine but he can't seem to get it to work, he also does not have a wall outlet for a phone cord ... my question comes down to looking for a diagram or a brief explanation of what the 2 and 4 pin conductors mean on the phone cable

POTS

Here's a decent one-page reference, where you are probably only interested in the first paragraph and diagram about the RJ11 plug: http://www.westernet.net/Help/RJ45.htm

Traditional telphone (POTS="Plain Old Telephone Service") uses "quad" wiring to support up to 2 telephone lines. That's the traditional telephone cable with black, red, green, and yellow wires. If you're looking at the wires in a RJ (registered jack) connector, they belong in that order. The mnemonic "BuRGundY" may be helpful. Each line uses one pair (2 wires) for a voice or fax connection.

Line one uses the red and green wires. Line 2 uses the black and yellow wires.

A single-line configuration (red/green) uses the two pins in the center of the connectors.

In a two-line configuration, the second line (black/yellow) uses the two pins to the outside of the center two pins.

DSL

DSL (ADSL, VDSL, etc.) also uses two wires (one pair), like POTS. Both DSL and POTS signalling can be transmitted on the same wires because they operate at different frequencies. But the DSL signalling causes interference with analog sound signals and needs to be filtered out. You use a DSL splitter to do this.

The DSL Modem

Your specific DSL modem might have an internal filter and might thus provide a clean analog phone jack. If not, then you need an external splitter.

If you do need an external splitter, then you need to plug the splitter into the wall, and plug the DSL modem and any analog telephony devices into their respective jacks on the splitter.

The Phone Company

You also need to have POTS service on your line from the phone company. Just because you have DSL service doesn't mean you have analog telephone service.

I don't have analog phone service from the phone company, for example. I do have a "home phone" line that I can use for the rare fax transmission, but it is connected to a VoIP device that is connected to my Ethernet network.


Do I need gypsum with orange peel to do a reasonable color test? We expect to close on a house on Friday and my father-in-law will be in town that weekend only to help us paint a couple of bedrooms (currently brightly colored) and an accent wall.  So we need to test colors quickly rather than giving the primer a day to dry and the paint a day as well.  My builder friend says to get gypsum board and spray it with orange peel.  Another authority says plywood or cardboard (??) is sufficient.  Do I need to acquire gypsum to do a good quality test?  Can I skip the orange peel at least?  (And wouldn't the brown of cardboard hurt the testing?)

Obviously, our intent is to place the board in different parts of the room to test how the color looks.  We can't order test boards online because that would take too long for shipping, and I like to keep costs down.

You could paint cardboard with the Kilz first as well to seal it, then your paint. I wouldn't go to the extra trouble of buying gypsum and especially putting a texture on it first. That sounds like overkill.


Encasing electrical outlet behind a panel above overhead microwave My remodeling contractor has installed an overhead microwave.  The electrical outlet is no longer in a cabinet above the microwave.  He has taken the limited space above the microwave ( about 8 inches of clearance) and has the electrical outlet encased inside with a panel across the top of the microwave.

Is this safe?  Certainly not practical in my mind.  Should I ever have microwave repair needed, I will have to dismantle his carpentry work to get inside the space to the outlet.

The electrical outlet always needs to be accessible. Electrical code in regions that I know about do not permit an electrical box, then yet an outlet attached to it, to be buried behind permanent structure.

It sounds like your remodeling contractor does not know his way around an electrical issue.


Cutting a hole in a mounted mirror I have a large mirror that's glued to the wall so I can't remove it. It already has a 1 gang outlet in it but I'd like to expand it to a 2 gang box. How would I expand the hole on a vertical mirror that also has drywall behind it?

Cutting or drilling a hole in a mirror is something that takes either very specialized tools that are not easily available, or an EXTREME amount of luck. If you have a high speed rotary tool, like a Dremel, and a diamond encrusted bit made for grinding glass, you might get lucky. Do NOT breath the dust that comes off of that.


How big of a beam for a load bearing wall I have a wall in my basement that is load bearing. Right now, they put a door opening in there (and probably overdid the header for it). I would like to remove a 7 foot section and open it up for a bit more storage.

I have been searching online, and most tell you how to do something like this, but not how big of a beam you'd need for a span of X feet. How do I figure something like that out?

When modifying load bearing walls and betting your house on the results, you are well served to hire a civil engineer to analyze the situation and tell you what will work, rather than guessing. It should not be terribly expensive.


Would running a new subpanel in parallel meet NEC requirements? If not, what should I do? Background

U.S.A. Voltages/power present.
My house has a 125A Power Mains breaker at the street.
A buried line runs from the street breaker to my main panel on exterior wall outside of house.
The main panel has 3 220VAC breakers: a 30A, 40A, and 50A.
I have proven the 30A runs to a 3-prong 220VAC Electrical Dryer plug.
I have proven the 50A runs to the existing subpanel in the attached garage which has 11 breakers ranging from 15A to 25A (This panel is full).
I presume the 40A circuit runs to the A/C compressor unit.
The existing subpanel in the garage has two conduits (or knockouts), a small one which contains the power feed from the 50A breaker outside, and a large one which contains the wire bundle that services the fixtures and outlets in the house.
The power feed line in the existing subpanel is wired as follows:

L is landed on the L bussbar terminal screw (The bussbar is fully populated with breakers)
N is landed on the N bussbar terminal screw
G is uninsulated, and (oddly) not landed anywhere I presume this isn't to code.

Question

I need to add a new (additional) subpanel in the garage for additional breakers.

Assuming this is up to code, I intend to parallel the new subpanel with the existing one, by:

Properly landing the unlanded G in the existing subpanel
Landing a new L line which will supply the new subpanel on the same bussbar terminal (screw) in the existing subpanel that the existing L line is landed. This new line will run to the subpanel as a power supply line.
Landing a new N line the same way.

If I parallel a new subpanel this way, can I route the tie-in to the new subpanel through the larger knockout which contains the wiring to the outlets and fixtures, or must I route the tie-in to the new subpanel through the same small conduit that supplies the existing subpanel?

What parts of this plan are not up-to-code (assuming NEC 2008, or 2011)?

Regardless of code, what parts are unsafe?

A sub panel must have the neutral and ground isolated. Panels come with a very long, rather thick (about 1/4 x 20) green bonding screw that connects the neutral bar to the can in the case of a primary panel. You don't get a neutral from your utility, you create one with that bonding screw.

Sub panels should be fed with 3 insulated conductors of appropriate size, and a ground that need not be insulated (but can be, if you want). So the first part of your question is, yes, that sub panel must be grounded, but the grounding conductor should be attached to the can using a ground lug, not by landing it to the neutral bar.

Sub panels must also have a fused disconnect, which means they need to be fed from a breaker, and there can't be anything else on that breaker. Don't double tap. You have two options here:

Increase the size of the existing sub panel
Put in a new double pole breaker in the existing sub panel and use that to feed your new sub panel. Land the circuits you had to pull out of the existing sub panel into the new one.

As others have noted, you need to watch your loads. If all you need are a few convenience receptacles or a lighting circuit, you should probably be o.k. (hard to tell with what you've given).

Either way, get an amprobe and look at what each incoming phase is pulling in your existing sub panel prior to doing anything. Make sure everything is on when you do. If it's only pulling 25 - 30A on average, you should be o.k. to add a small 8 circuit sub panel. Since it's directly in the line of sight with the existing sub panel, the new sub panel need not have a main breaker since the means of disconnect is right next to it.

A six to eight circuit sub panel runs about $80 without breakers, they typically start at 50A, but you don't have to feed them with 50A. You could feed it from a 30A breaker if all you want are convenience receptacles and lights.

Here is an amprobe being used:

(source: amprobe.com)

Do that on your sub panel first (one phase at a time) just to be sure you have room to add more. If not, you need to replace your existing sub panel, and an electrician is really your best bet there.

Another good thing to do is measure the draw of the circuits you'll have to move to the sub panel in order to make room for the breaker that will feed it. Obviously, you want to move the circuits drawing the least to the new panel in the end. Some re-arranging might be needed to make that happen.

Since this is a garage, take care what you connect to the sub panel. If you are going to be powering something like a compressor (or anything else with a decent sized motor), carefully consider the locked rotor amperage when determining the load. It will be printed on the motor.

Finally, if any of this sounds overwhelming, call an electrician. If you get into any kind of trouble, call an electrician.


Designed a floating corner table, unsure of its potential strength. Any ideas? I pretty much want to attach some angle iron to the studs and some threaded rods to the angle iron. I'll rout out the profile of the angle iron into the butcher block so it sits flush and so that when I tighten down on the rods, it's clamping to something solid. I want to drill holes through the butcher block and tighten them down to the edge of the table.

Here's a drawing:

How much max weight do you guys think the edge will support? Will it sag if I was to put my elbows on the table? Could I rest down a 50 pound book bag on the rounded corner, or would that break? How about if a kid was to sit on it? Or even a full size adult?

I know it's not as strong as it would be if I was to simply put a brace there, but with the limited space this is fitting in, I want to be able to use that corner as a third seat. Plus, it'd be cool. Nobody else would have ever seen a floating table that big!

My other option is to use 1/2" hanger bolts and tighten right up to the drywall.

I think the answer would really depend on the flexibility of the bar top. You could test the flexion of the board with a jig, and if it's up to muster, then the only other concern is the back corner. That is where the force on the outer corner is going to transfer to, in an upward manner. You mentioned that the angle iron is going into 2"x6"s, so those should be fine.
If the grain of the butcher board runs lengthways, I would stick with the threaded rod, but if it runs the short way, you might run into compression/differential problems with the glue joints.
It's a very smooth idea, I hop you can make it work!


Single neutral bus bar in subpanel with 2 columns of breakers? (Questions in bold at the bottom)

I recently purchased a Siemens E0816ML1125S load center for use as a subpanel in my basement:

I installed a ground bus bar, located horizontally under where the breakers snap in.

As I began wiring it, I realized that most breaker boxes I've seen have two bus bars with a crossover shunt between the two neutrals (in addition to a ground bar).  But the Siemens box doesn't have a mounting location for the second neutral bus bar.

So one option would be to mount a second bus bar on the left side, using some sort of plastic standoffs (it being a subpanel, I want to isolate neutral and the grounded box here).  But is it acceptable/common to just use the terminals on the right side neutral bus, even for circuits whose breaker will be on the left?

Is the eventual messy wiring acceptable?

Thanks.

The reason  you only have one neutral busbar is that your panel is super, super, super small and there simply aren't enough circuits to need 2 neutral bars.  Larger panels don't have 2 neutral bars for neatness, they have 2 bars to provide enough neutral/ground screws (if main panel).  You shouldn't even worry about terminating the neutral on the same side of the breaker.  One thing we preach a lot here is "don't save money on the panel - you'll only regret it later".

For instance, with 8 spaces, and if you totally fill it with 15A breakers, that will only be 60A (remembering the feed is 240V).  Running 125A feeder to it is a complete waste of your money -- or to be more precise, this postage-stamp panel is a complete waste of your time.  I would return it to the store and spend a little extra on something like a 24-space.  You'll thank us later!

As far as neatness, there is no Code requirement for neatness, at least, not in the way you're about to see. What you actually need is enough slack on your hot wires so you can move breakers around without limitation, and enough on your neutrals so you can bring them to the breaker on the happy day you upgrade to AFCI or GFCI.

Grounds need only be long enough to reach the ground bar; they'll never move.

And that should be reasonably tidy; it doesn't need to be Mom's spaghetti. What the 110.12 neatness rule is saying is don't just toss it all in higgledy piggledy so it looks like a grenade went off in there.  Try to comb it a little.

Here's what you don't need: this guy has painted himself into a corner.

I feel pretty / Oh, so pretty / I feel pretty, and witty, and carefree....

Whatever brain cells this guy used to style the panel, he should've used to do a better job of the actual work.  For instance where's the well marked white tape on the neutral wire? That's not optional. What is optional is different color hots; better to make them both black (since they are interchangeable) and the neutral red (since it is not) and taped too. How does this "pro" not own white tape?

Look at the grounds on the neutral bar.  Sloppy. This guy does main panels all daaaaaaay...  and it's allowed in main panels, but sloppy and a bad habit. If neatness matters, why not use panels with ground bars, and tuck them directly out of the way first?  If this panel were ever made a subpanel, a bunch of ugly wirenut extensions would be needed.

He's cut all his neutrals an inch or two too short, so he'll be either angling or wire-nutting every neutral when he goes to add AFCI/GFCI.

But those top circuits can never be moved to any other position.  He's murdered all the slack.  So if he needs to move things around to make them more logical, or rearrange to fit a 2-pole breaker somewhere, or he needs to use double-stuff breakers and those only fit in the bottom 8 spaces... he's cut off his nose to spite his face.  Why do that? Slack is cheap.


Leaking plastic on plastic water connector I have a dishwasher with a small leak where the black plastic hose coming from the water inlet valve attaches to the dishwasher water inlet (on the left side of the dishwasher body).  The leak is at the location near the tip of the green pencil in the photo.

The hose is being held on by a spring clamp and it seems to be in good working order.

My question: is there a trick to stopping water leaks from this junction?  Is there an equivalent of a plastic-on-plastic pipe dope that I can put on the tubing here?

The fix for this might be crazy simple: petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc). Make sure it's the plain stuff (i.e. not medicated), then take the hose off and smear some around the edges, then fit the hose back on. It's remarkable how well it stops minor leaks like this.


The carpet on my stairs is worn. Should I repair it or just remove it? In our house the second floor and the stairs to them have carpet over top of old hardwood floors (installed by previous owner).  The carpet is wearing out, particularly on the stairs where it has come untacked in a couple places so that when you go up or down them the carpet will at times slide forward creating a hazard we need to deal with. We can see under the carpet in a couple places and the floor looks okay, but not great.

Does it make more sense to remove the carpet and risk the condition of the floor underneath or try to tack the carpet back in place?  What would be involved with retacking it down? If the finish on the original floor is in poor shape, is it a problem just to leave it alone (assuming no splinter hazards)? Finally, if we remove the carpet, what will we need to do to remove the tacks and other carpet related things from the floors?

I'd go ahead and pull it up and see what you've got.  It sounds like it's in pretty poor shape so you're going to have to get rid of it either way.

Depending on how the carpet was installed you'll probably find tack strips that look something like like this:

You might also find staples -- I don't know if this is common but our installer used a staple gun in some troublesome spots.  Most if not all of the staples will probably be pulled out when you rip out the carpet.

Before removing anything, take a look at the hardwood stair treads and make a preliminary decision about whether you think they're in good enough condition to leave exposed.  If they're really rough and/or you want to recarpet, leave the tack strips in place and hammer in the staples.

If you do want to leave the stairs uncarpeted, you can just remove the tack strips, being careful not to damage the floor underneath.  For minimal damage I'd recommend this type of prybar available at box stores for ~$14:

Use a hammer to tap the pointy claw end (like you would hammer a chisel) under the head of each nail holding the tack strip down, then pry up the nail enough that you can get your hammer's claw under it to pull it out.  No tools ever need touch your stair tread.


What amperage fuse for Trane XL-80 gas furnace? I would think this would be something that could easily be Googled, but I've tried and can't find it.

We have a Trane XL-80 gas furnance and when we had an insulation guy checking out the furnace, he remarked that the furnace switch in our furnace closet should really be an SSU switch with a fuse in it. I forgot to ask him what amperage fuse to use. Anyone know?

The switch is based on the load, but since the furnace is a dedicated circuit what size breaker is the unit on? I would guess a 15 amp but I haven't seen a gas furnace with anything larger than a 20 amp the switch must have a labeled on /off position but other than that a standard switch is fine.


Should I insulate my roof on the inside or outside? I am renovating my house and am completely redoing my flat roof: ceilings, insulation and roof covering (I am planning to use EPDM rubber). In case it is relevant, I am living in the Netherlands.

My plan was to use rockwool on the inside as insulation, but now my builder is suggesting insulation on the outside. He wants to use 50mm (2 inches) PIR insulation.

Does anyone have ideas on the following:

Is there a good argument to go with insulation on the outside of the roof instead of on the inside?
Is PIR insulation better than rockwool?
Or ... should I insulate both the inside and the outside?

Commercial flat roofer here with 18 years experience.

I cannot stress enough how useless and incorrect inverted roofs are.
Having the XPS panels ABOVE the roofing membrane continues to be one of the dumbest things that I see on specs.

No matter what the insulation manufacturer tells you, those insulation panels will eventually absorb water. I have removed hundreds of these systems over the years and after 7-8 years of the insulation constantly sitting in water, they begin to absorb it.
And sit in water is what they do, they cover the roof and never allow it to dry.

I have removed inverted roofs with 3" XPS and those 2'x4' panels can weigh up to 20 lbs once they suck up enough water.

Once this happens, all the R-value that they once had is completely negated.

Putting the insulation over the roofing membrane is like putting your car seat on the roof of your car to drive and wondering why your cold and wet.

In most residential situations it is usually better to install 7" ROXUL on the inside between the joists. The only time I see different is if the owner is looking for an exposed ceiling look.
https://www.timbermart.ca/sites/default/files/files/brands/pdfs/us_accordian_brochure.pdf

If that is your case, I would suggest a Ballasted 60mil EPDM system over two staggered layers of 2.6" polyisocyanurate (Poly iso), this will give you an R-Value of 30.

If you are determined to use and inverted system, I would highly recommend installing a dimple or drainage board over the roofing membrane and ensuring you are using XPS panels that have pre-cut reglets in the bottom of them that will help with drainage and help keep the XPS out of the water.
If you are looking for an r-30 you will need about 6" of XPS.


How can I install these pre-hung doors? OK so I got about 20 interior prehung 6-panel doors with trim from Lowe's for $50 a piece.  I was buying a lot of stuff they wanted to get rid of.  Now putting up 8 news doors in a house.  All of the jambs are 4 inches...

Well when I bought the doors they told me that they were fine for 2x4 construction. Didn't tell me that it would be 2x4 with 1/4 inch drywall. The problem is that I have 1/2" drywall, making the jamb a 1/2 inch too wide.

Are the 4 inch jambs common and what is the easiest way to add the outer strip?

There is no reason that you can't make jamb extenders these are routinely used in prehung windows. The casings and whatever you use to bridge the gap to the jamb are just trim and have no structural component.

The trick is to avoid using the exact same thickness. When two pieces are meeting in a plane, it is best to have a slight reveal, an offset (usually between 1/8 and 3/16 inch). This way you have an intended step, not an almost exact match (that is never quite exact).

You can glue the edge of the extender to the edge of the jamb (maintaining the reveal) and pin the face of the extender to the underlying stud.

Most stock prehung doors use jambs that are 4 9/16 inches, wide enough for 2x4 framing (1.5x3.5 actually) and two 1/2 inch drywall faces.


What type of paint should be used to paint a brick fireplace? The brick color is hideous. Additionally there are some missing bricks that will be replaced first and would be hard to match.

Is there a particular type of paint that should be used on brick?

I did this exact thing a few years ago in a friend's house.  The steps I took:

Remove lime efflorescence from the brick by spraying on some diluted white vinegar, then scrubbing with a stiff-bristled nylon brush.  Leave to dry.
Prime and seal (there were some smoke stains on the brick) the fireplace with Kilz latex spray primer.  Leave to dry.
Paint with two coats of a pure white exterior gloss latex paint that I had left over from painting some wood trim.  The rough texture of the brick meant that the final surface wasn't super-shiny.

This is how it turned out (sorry about the photo quality):


Adding circuits in a sub panel I have a 50 amp sub panel in my basement with 6 circuits in it, which is not enough. How many circuits can I run with a 50 amp service?

You could theoretically run an infinite number of circuits with a 50A service, provided that no more than 50A is ever drawn at any one time.

More practically, if your panel only contains full-width single-pole or double-pole breakers, you may be able to swap out one or more existing breakers in favor of half-width breakers. That would double your possibilities to a total of 12 branch circuits.

Another alternative would be to install a sub-panel, which is a standalone breaker panel fed by a double-pole breaker in the main panel. You do lose two slots in the main panel, but in return you get as many slots as the sub-panel supports - whether full-width or half-width breakers are used.

For example (probably pretty extreme, for a 50A service), you could swap out four full-width breakers in the main panel for half-width breakers and gain four new branch circuits. You could then swap out the remaining two breakers for a double-pole breaker and use it to feed a six-slot subpanel. You'd migrate those last two breakers to the subpanel, leaving another four new slots available, and then you could populate those four slots with eight half-width breakers to gain yet another eight new branch circuits - total twelve new branch circuits.

Don't go overboard, though, be sensible about it. Adding breakers doesn't increase the total amount of current you can draw. All it does is open up options as to where you can draw that current.


Changing swing check valve for a Double Check Valve Backflow Preventer I have a bad swing check valve and was thinking of replacing with a 3/4 Double Check Valve Backflow Preventer Assembly. The utility pressure is 10 PSI and is hard water. Since my current check valve has failed in such a short time (2 years) and will cost me quite a bit to break the concrete driveway where it is currently located, I thought this would be better since it can be serviced without removing and O-rings are easily available.
Would pressure be diminished with a double check valve?
Would it work at all at such a low pressure?
Edit:
In the tech specs, the only thing I could find regarding pressure is the following:
The FEBCO Double Check Assembly Backflow Preventer consists of two independently operating, spring
loaded check valves. The pressure drop across the first check valve is approximately 1.0 PSIG with no flow.
The pressure drop across the second check valve is also 1.0 PSIG with no flow. A complete assembly
includes two shut-off valves and four test cocks.

Since you are providing access to the backflow preventer...
Since you are providing an irrigation box for the backflow preventer, which means that you can access the preventer down the road, your plan is sound as far as that goes.  Note that Double Check Valve assemblies are considered testable, which means that in many jurisdictions, you will need to test them on a regular basis (such as yearly, or every other year, as discussed in this City of Tallahassee document) as well as at the time of installation.  This test is usually performed by a plumber, but your water utility may provide this service to residential customers for a small additional fee on your water bill.  This all is atop having to register your preventer with the water utility, which consists mostly of filling out and sending them the appropriate form.  Of course, if you're on a well, then you don't have utility regs to worry about, but you should still test the preventer on a regular basis to ensure that your well doesn't get contaminated by backflow.
...but as to that head loss
According to the FEBCO LF850 specsheet, a 3/4" LF850 will have about 5-6psi of head loss across it for flow rates below 20gpm.  Considering that most folks won't push more than 12gpm through a 3/4" line anyway, you might be able to get away with it, depending on how much head loss is in the rest of the system and what this is protecting.  If that 5psi of loss is excessive, then you'll need a booster pump after the preventer.  Note that that may impose more stringent testing requirements on your backflow preventer.


Can I support a fiberglass tub with a layer of 1" thick foam board between a concrete subfloor and mortar base? I'm trying to maximize the headroom in my basement shower. I originally planned on placing the tub on top of the subfloor and sleepers that make up the rest of the floor, but then I realized I can add about 3 inches by not doing that. The pipes actually run half in-half-out of the slab, which I "framed around" with sleepers - see here. The tub needs a mortar base, so I thought I can just put down some plastic to separate the mortar from the concrete floor and install my tub mortar base and tub directly on top. But now I'm thinking that the concrete floor is about 65 degrees in the winter, that's not exactly ideal to step on with the heat transfer.

I'm thinking I can "frame around" the pipes on the floor with 1" foam insulation (on top the 6mil plastic) and then apply my mortar directly on top of that layer to support the tub.

I think the thickness of the mortar (3" at least) should distribute weight sufficiently to support the tub while walking in it. It should be relatively solid, not like I'm walking on foam. The foam is quite rigid anyways. Under the load of a full bath tub though, should that be fine? Or should I add 1" sleepers between the insulation and the mortar, to provide a solid path to the ground? Would I need a layer of OSB over the sleepers for them to be effective, or is the mortar good enough? Or maybe I should just skip the foam all together?

A typical bathtub holds around 40 gallons, which equates to 8 pints of water, and since a pints a pound the world around, that means 320 pounds of water+you in the tub plus whatever part of you is above the waterline.

If we estimate the surface area of the bottom of the tub at approximately 4' by 1.5' that's about 6 square feet or 864 square inches.

That means that at most the pounds per square inch on the bottom of the tub will be about .4 - and that's ignoring that part of the weight will be carried by the sides of the tub around to the rim.

Then there's the mortar.  1 cubic inch of mortar comes in at about .08 pounds and 3 of those vertically means .24 pounds bringing the total pounds per square inch on the foam, maximum, to about .64.

So the concern here is - will the foam take the weight - and the only way to find out is to determine if the foam is able to withstand pressure of .64 pounds per square inch without compressing.  And also - will the foam's strength deteriorate over time.

These are answers you'll have to find out from the manufacturer. (Although you can test it yourself - use weigh the head of a hammer resting on a scale while the handle rests off the scale and that is probably > 1 pound... then rest it on the foam)  But if the foam is rigid enough to take that kind of weight, you'll probably be ok.


How can I route storm water away from my atrium? I have an atrium in my condo that is exactly in the middle of the house.  It has gutters and downspouts around it and whomever built it, just let the downspouts empty into the open courtyard of lava rock.  I want to put a solid floor in the atrium and have the gutters empty somehow else.  There is no possible way to empty them into an underground system, nor even an above ground one.  I cannot see anyway to reroute gutters  to go off another point of condo.  Is there a fix for this?

Can you tear up the courtyard and put a leach field under it before laying down the floor, thus preserving the through-ground drainage now present?

Can you consider rain-permeable material as flooring? (Some ideas here and here, or  investigate other options.)

Other than those, the only idea I've got is a sump, a pump, and run the pump's output thru basement to outside.

(Or to drain and sewers if that's legal in your area; it isn't here.)


Why does my breaker trip when I turn a light on? In my bedroom I have a light wired to a plug and three receptacles.

There is nothing plugged into the receptacles but every time I turn the switch to the light on, the breaker trips.

The wiring from the light to the switch is wired correctly, and from the switch to the plugs as well.

I thought that I should switch the breaker from a standard to a GFCI breaker, but before spending that extra money and having the problem persist I'm betting that it's a short somewhere or wires touching.

Any suggestions?

If you're saying that the breaker pops when the switch it turned to the 'on' position and nothing is in the socket, it is possible if you had the 'hot' on one connection and 'neutral' on the second connection of a single pole switch, that every time you turn the switch on, you're effectively touching hot to neutral, causing the breaker to trip.

If this is a new leg/pull/circuit, I'd look for stripped sections. Otherwise, this sounds like either the socket or the switch are not wired correctly. I'd assume that something is wired hot to neutral off the switch.

Otherwise, you probably have a short somewhere between the socket and the switch. I would check for anywhere wire could be stripped unintentionally:

Knockouts
Corners
Anything that is 'squeezed' into place
Staples (especially non NM rated staples)
Bored holes in studs, joists, etc.

Also, there is a slight chance that the breaker is old and needs to be replaced. It's rare, but I've seen breakers that fail, and can be reset.

I would be surprised if going to a new GFCI socket or breaker resolves this issue.


How to handle painted backsplash that now has bubbling paint We have a painted wooden backsplash by our kitchen faucet. Sadly, the wooden is now swelling because of the moisture around. Note that the wood doesn't normally get water on it directly - it appears to just be the water that lands on the countertop below it.

The obvious solution would be to sand it flat and paint with an enamel paint to resist the water. Are there other solutions I should look at?

There is a reason that painted surfaces are generally not used for backsplashes, and you have discovered it.

The standard approach to both counter and backsplash is to have an impervious surface and a seal between them. This is virtually impossible with paint. Occassionaly you will find heavily sealed wood (clear epoxy, marine varnish, etc.) used for either the counter or the backsplash, but they need constant monitoring and repair if scratched or chipped.

You should consider using tile or metal as a backsplash (as suggested by hortstu in his comment). It should also be sealed to the countertop at the base (clear silicone at the bottom edge of the tile/metal).


Drywall screws snap off when trying to fix squeaky subfloor I am using 1 1/2 drywall screws from the top of the floor, to stop the squeak. Using screw gun and collated screws. The gun is snapping the heads off the screws, is this OK? And will it stop the squeaking with the heads broken off? There is flooring going down afterwards, so screw head indention is not an issue.
    Thanks

It won't likely cause a problem, and it may resolve the squeak. Drywall screws are very hard and somewhat brittle to keep them from stripping during install. For that reason, they're not ideal for your current purposes.

That said, I'd consider those screws too small. You only have 3/4" remaining after you go through the subfloor (at most). Also, you won't be able to easily remove them later if you need to.

I'd use 2-1/2" construction (gold) screws from a good manufacturer (cheap screws are cheap) instead.


How do I approach new water stains on my ceiling? I am a brand new home owner with almost no experience with DIY stuff.  There was a few days of significant rain and now my wife noticed some stains on our 2nd floor ceiling that we are pretty sure weren't there before.  The stains aren't huge: probably about a half dozen spots that are between 2 and 10 inches in diameter.  They are all localized in an area of about 2 feet square.  When we bought the house a few weeks ago the inspector did not notice any problems with the roof or evidence of leaking but that was before Hurricane Irene rolled through.

I'm not really sure how to approach the problem.  It has stopped raining today and looking in the attic a bit I don't see any obvious place where water came through.  All of the insulation above the second floor ceiling looks dry.  Should I get up on the roof and look?  (A daunting proposition for someone of my skill level.)  Should I just call my homeowner's insurance to start a claim process?  (With $1000 deductible I'm not sure if that is the right play.)  Should I wait until it rains again and go up in the attic and look for leaks?  Should I just watch the stain to see if it gets worse?

I have had several calls since Irene for similar problems on roofs that had previously had no leaks.  As most have already said, the first step is to get up in the attic for a visual inspection.  I would remove the insulation over the stained area to check for damp insulation and allow the ceiling drywall to dry completely.  Look straight up over the stain area on rafters or trussed for any signs of water staining.  You may get lucky and be able to trace a stain trail to the source of the leak. It is not uncommon that in a storm with wind driven rain for water to be forced uphill into a ridge vent, then track down a framing member. If this is the case, it was an isolated incident and no repair may be needed.  However if the winds lifted a few shingles or damaged the seals around vent pipes etc., some simple repairs may solve the problem.

A word of caution, if you call in a professional roofer, get more than one opinion.  It is very common in that trade to try to up sell uninformed home owners on a whole new roof at around $350 per 100 sq foot, rather than just offer a simple inexpensive repair. I would try to find a reputable general contractor in your area that will work with you as you learn more about home ownership and give you expert advise and recommend reputable tradesmen for roofing, plumbing, electrical etc., as needed. The best way to find such a resource is by referral from other homeowners or friends. Rarely will a really good GC advertise, as they are too busy already and get plenty of work from referrals from their customer base. Sometimes you can chat with a project pro at a local building materials center, even a Home Depot or Lowes and they may give up the names of a couple of good, well respected home maintenance general contractors.


Neutral Wire is used to carry power to light switch - is this legal? Forgive me for my crappy drawing :) to make a long story short I just moved into a home and I am taking a look at one of the lighting jobs. I noticed the light switch had no power feeding it and the "neutral" wire was hot. I was a bit confused and worried.

After doing some testing I realized the white "neutral" wire was actually the wire feeding the light switch power. Then the black "hot" wire was the wire giving the light can its power. (See picture).

Is this legal (in terms of electrical code) and is this safe? Is there any cause of concern since the light switch has no neutral wire connected to it?

This is fine in an existing setup...

This is the old way a switch loop was done, using the white wire to carry power to the switch and the black wire to carry the switched-hot back to the light.  For a dumb light switch, not having neutral at the switch is a nothingburger, so all's well that ends well.  There should be electrical tape wrapped around the white wire at each end to reidentify it as a hot, though -- if that's not the case, turn the circuit off at the breaker and add a wrap of black electrical tape around that white wire on each end.

However, new work works differently

In new work, though, this is not to Code.  The 2011 NEC added provisions for neutral (what Code calls the grounded conductor vs ground, which Code calls the equipment grounding conductor) at switch locations in 404.2(C) due to the proliferation of advanced "smart" switches, dimmers, timers, and suchnot that need constant power.  The alternatives involve returning that constant current through the load (which is incompatible with LED light bulbs and some other loads) or returning it on the equipment grounding system (which is a dirty hack).

  (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded
  circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be
  provided at the location where switches control lighting
  loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose
  branch circuit for other than the following:

  (1) Where conductors enter the box enclosing the switch
  through a raceway, provided that the raceway is large
  enough for all contained conductors, including a
  grounded conductor

  (2) Where the box enclosing the switch is accessible for
  the installation of an additional or replacement cable
  without removing finish materials

  (3) Where snap switches with integral enclosures comply
  with 300.15(E)

  (4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or
  bathroom

  (5) Where multiple switch locations control the same lighting load such that the entire floor area of the room or space is visible from the single or combined switch
  locations

  (6) Where lighting in the area is controlled by automatic
  means

  (7) Where a switch controls a receptacle load

  Informational Note: The provision for a (future) grounded
  conductor is to complete a circuit path for electronic lighting control devices.


Should the entire element on my burner on top of electric stove turn red when turned on? I just bought a new Frigidaire electric range. On top of stove burner the element does not turn completely red. Should the entire element turn red? Not just partially.

It might or might not be an issue, depending on what is actually happening and element type.

For "normal" coil elements, if one spot on the element gets red significantly earlier than the rest of the element, it's time to replace the element before it burns out and starts arcing.

A slightly uneven redness is not a problem. As such, pictures would be helpful.


Device to share power between service panels Is there a device that can evenly split the load on two separate panels?
For example,
Panel A ——————-\
                >-[ device ]— Load
Panel B ——————-/

The use case is, up stairs and down stairs tenants have separate electric service. There is a shared washer and dryer in the basement. Both machines are using the down stairs electricity. Is there a device that can be plugged into both panels and draw the power evenly to share the cost?

I don't see any practical way, and by that I mean cost effective and in a manner that both sides would be satisfied with the result. See Ed Beal's comment.
You could set up a transfer switch (a double pole double throw switch with a neutral position). The common poles would connect to the appliance and each side of the switch would connect to opposing panels including breaking the neutral. Then whom ever would want to use the appliance would have to be able to switch to his panel. When they were finished the circuit would have to be reset to the neutral position automatically. To keep one person from using the other persons power you would have to set up some sort of interlock where one side could only turn on their power and not the other. It is also important to note that no one really manufacturers this sort of device so control would be a one off set of parts.
In most multi-residential buildings you have shared appliances on a House Panel which serves a common area and the utility charge is divided up and billed as part of the rent.
Hope this helps.


What could be causing a leak on the supply side of a washing machine hose I have recently installed a new washing machine. In the new machine, as well as for the old one, there is a leak as indicated in the following picture:

https://imgur.com/a/92oSaFk

What could cause this? I have screwed the clamp tightly by hand - should I be using a tool to do this?

Note: this is on the cold side, and the hoses are new, but the faucets old.

There should be a rubber "rubber" washer in the plastic union that screws onto the tap.

(the washer is usually some sort of flexible plastic, not actual rubber)

It's called a hose union washer and should be available at most places that sell hardware or plumbing supplies.

I have in the past used slices of actual rubber hose to replace lost washers.

If there is a piece of fibre in the joint that could cause a slow leak. so when you undo the union to check for the washer, if you do find a washer make sure that it and the surface below it are clean and undamaged, and that the mating face of the tap is also clean.


Bowed Stud at Rough Opening Door Frame I have a door frame that we had a hard time figuring out due to ceiling bulk heads. The Rough Opening was supposed to be 82x32, however, after drywall we have a Rough Opening of 81 3/4" x 31 1/2". The right door frame stud has bowed inwards causing the middle to be 31 1/2", where the top and bottom are 32". We would like a 30x80" door for this bathroom, however, I will take a 28x30 if there is no other choice.

My question is do I attempt to plane the middle of the stud down with a reciprocating saw or planer to try to fit a 30x80" door? Or do I just go with a 28x80""?

Or should I just order a custom door based on the RO dimensions

[Update] This picture was taken before the drywall was put up. Drywall is up and primed.

[update 2]
used a magnet to find the screws and take em out. Then cut a wedge 32" and jammed it in the middle. I had to knock the top in a bit as it wasn't 32".  Then I put in a buch of 2inch drywall screws all the way down on both sides and took out the wedge. Worked like a charm! warped the drywall slightly around the box as I didn't factor enough movement. will have to fan this out a bit or just leave it. Thanks for the tips guys!

I can think of two potential fixes. In both cases, I wouldn't plane the stud at all, that compromises strength.

Plane the jamb

Door jambs are typically 5/8" or 11/16". In this case, I would just use a planer on the center of the jamb to shave it down to the 1/2" needed. There'd obviously be no shims in the center.

Fix the stud

If your drywall is not yet finished, and you a certain that the stud was not bowed before, you can try forcing it to be straight.

Pull all the screws out of the bowed stud. Cut a 2x4 to exactly 32", then use a hammer to wedge it in horizontally in the center of the door, pushing the stud straight again.

Put several drywall screws back in place -- it's going to be the drywall that holds the stud from bowing again, so you need to make sure the connection is good.

I'm definitely hesitant to suggest this, since if it doesn't work you'll end up with the edge of the drywall ripped apart by the screws holding it in, and if it gives way at some point after the construction is done, then you'll have a stuck door to contend with as well. You'll have to use your judgement to see if this is an appropriate fix.


What size circuit breaker is required for a GE model JBP68HKWW range? What size circuit breaker is required for a GE model JBP68HKWW range?

It depends on the wire going to the range.

If the wire is 8 AWG you can only use a 40A breaker, regardless of what the range's instructions may tell you.

If it is 6 AWG, you should use 40A or 50A depending on what the range's instructions say to use.

While you're in there... this is a very good time to make sure you are using the modern, grounded 4-wire connection including a NEMA 14 plug/socket if it uses a plug.  The old 3-wire connection is hazardous, as any problem with the neutral wire will electrify the chassis of the range.  No kidding, and this problem has a body count.

It's especially a shame if the house is wired with modern /3 cable +ground, but someone downgraded it because their used range had a 3-prong connection.   If it doesn't have a ground now, the rules now allow you to add just a ground wire, either back to the panel or anywhere else with a 10AWG ground wire back to the panel.


Can hanging a 70 lbs punching bag from my garage ceiling cause damage? Took a look in the attic above the garage to find somewhere to hang my 70 lbs punching bag. After seeing what was up there, I wasn't sure it was a good idea anymore so I was hoping to get some feedback.

Garage depth: 24 ft / width: 30 ft

Here is a link to more pictures of the attic so you can have a better idea of the structure
https://imgur.com/a/Oq1ykiu

The red arrow shows the spot I was going to hang the bag from. It's a 2x12 going all the way from the front to the back of the garage, supported by those respective walls. Is that considered a beam?

I hope this is enough information to determine if it can hold and not cause structural issues.

Thanks!

something like this

drill from the attic side

afterthought: use lockwashers


Adding LED Recessed - 3 Way Switch - Dim Lights I will try and provide as much information as I can and I apologize if I call something by an inappropriate name - but this is what I have done from my research.

We had a room that had a central light that was was able to be switched on/off at the two entry points to the room. I wanted to add four recessed lights to the room and just leverage the same switches, etc. However, when I went to connect all the wires the LEDs are very dim. I am able to remove the one switch from the circuit and the lights function to their full capacity with the one switch functioning properly. When wired to the other switch (removing the first from the circuit) the lights and dim and the switch that is connected does not work. I have attached some crude drawings in an attempt to show the wiring better as I am not sure how clear my words are. Let me know if I can help to clarify any details.

This can't work without smart switches

You can't wire 2-way switches with only twin-and-earth, unles you do something totally evil and dangerous.  If it ever worked before, it was wired horribly.

You are groping around trying to experiment, which you should not do, but at least you are using the wires properly - reserving green/yellow for ground instead of bootlegging a hot or whatever horrible thing the last guy did.

The runs from lamp to switch need to be replaced with 3-wire + ground (whatever they call that where you are).  Then we can use 2 of them as what we call "travelers" and have the third for hot/common.

Your alternative if you can't rewire is to use smart switches, but this will require a module in the first lamp.