Fixing a large (1/8"-wide) crack in a wood exterior door panel This is a follow-up to my previous question: How can I fix a hairline crack in a thin wood panel of an exterior door?

While getting ready to apply wood glue (actually a mixture of wood glue and sawdust/sander dust) to the "hairline" crack in the door, I started scraping away spackling compound from  my previous repair so the glue could find wood to stick to.

But after scraping for a while I realized that my spackling repair was not the only one. The house's previous owner had apparently spackled and painted over a huge crack in the door. After removing all the spackling, the crack turned out to be 1/8" wide all the way through the 3/8" thick panel. The crack runs for 12" top to bottom. The crack is oddly consistent in width throughout, except for a small part at the top where a thin chunk of wood is still in place on the inside.

Here's a picture. I put blue tape temporarily over the outside crack to prevent water damage and chilly winds while I figure out how to fix this.

Should I try to stuff a 1/8"x3/8" shim into the crack and glue it in place? If yes, what glue to use for a high-vibration, non-clampable, and exposed-to-direct-sun (under black paint) area like an exterior door panel?

If a shim is not advisable, what are other good options to fill such a large crack?

Though the crack is diagonal it looks relatively straight. In this case I'd take a piece of wood the approximate thickness of the crack at it's widest, cut it to length and then taper it so that it fits quite snugly - you should have to use a mallet to tap it home. Don't worry about the thickness too much - but obviously it should be fairly close.

Once this fits use wood glue to bed it in and fill the imperfections, though you might get a better finish using wood filler for this. Basically put more glue in than you need so it gets squeezed into every nook and cranny. Clean it off before it sets, then leave the repair to set.

Once set use a chisel to remove the excess from both sides of the panel and finally sand to make it flush with the panel. Fill any remaining (and hopefully small) holes, prime and paint.

By making the fit tight you minimise the chances for it to move, and therefore crack, further.


What kind of screw is this? While finishing the assembly of a basketball hoop from a kit, I ran into a case where the provided screws are too large in diameter to fit into the mating holes, let alone screw in all the way.

I then decided to look through the huge fasteners aisle at the local home improvement superstore to try to find a similar screw in a smaller diameter. I was unsuccessful, and couldn’t even locate anything that had a similar threading pattern.

They look like this:

The head is a slotted hex shape, approximately #12, and the screw is 1.25 inches in length, but I’m not sure what “type” of screw I should be looking for as a replacement. Can anyone identify it from its appearance?

That screw you show is designed to cut its own thread as it enters the hole - the tip has the thread cut almost to the end of the tip to start the cutting process.

As long as the root diameter is fractionally smaller than the hole it is going into then it should be fine - as long as it is perpendicular to the hole it will go in fine, if it goes in at an angle then it will "block" or lock-up before it get fully home.

The ones I have used are definitely designed to be used in metal and the tip is hardened for that purpose.


How long should concrete set for a post before I perform additional work? I'm installing a gate for a fence around the house and have set wooden posts in concrete foundations for support. I'm using Quikcrete and the bag states that I need to wait at least 24 hours before doing additional work, but a friend of mine was saying that concrete doesn't achieve full strength for 28 days.

The pour was done per the manufacturer's instructions and was as follows:

The post was approximately 4" diameter and 8' tall.
The hole dug was triple the post's diameter, so 12". Depth was 18".
Per the manufacturer's instructions, the hole was backfilled 6" dry concrete.
Post was set and concrete mix based on the manufacturer's recommendation for water. This was 3 quarts per 80 lb bag. A little water was added during mixing because of workability issues, but not much.
Hole was backfilled with concrete mix to grade and concrete was tamped in with a shovel during the entire process.
Per manufacturer's recommendation, the top was graded to promote standing water on top of the foundation and left to set.

I will need to drill holes in these posts to set hooks for the fence and am concerned that the vibrations might compromise the concrete. In addition, I may or may not cut the excess to height depending on if my wife wants to place climbing plants on it. If I cut, the exposure will be 4' above grade plus a few inches for gate swing clearance.

It's been 4 days since I set the foundations and while the posts wobble when pulled hard, it appears that the wobble is because wood isn't absolutely solid, not because they aren't firmly in the foundation.

Is it safe to drill the holes, or should I wait longer? Could I have just drilled the holes after the first day?

The 28 days mantra is a bit misleading. Concrete cure times vary widely depending on environmental factors and mix. It's often at 80% or more by a week.

That said, we don't know much about your pour. If you have 4" of concrete around the post, it's fairly fragile and drilling could crack it. If you  have 8 or 12", it's much more robust and would probably tolerate drilling just fine, if you keep pressure light. All this depends on adequate moisture having been provided and temperature maintained.

Add more information for more detail in answers.


What could cause two of my receptacles to stop working? Problem: No power in two receptacles.

Note: Both receptacles on same circuit.

What I have done:

Checked the 15 amps circuit breakers with a volt tester. Each breaker reads 125 volts.
Bought a Commercial Electric Outlet Tester (MS6861H) from Home Depot. Used the tester on both receptacles. Tester shows “correct” on both receptacles.
Checked GFCI. GFCI was O.K. I do not believe the two receptacles are connected to the GFCI. I have one GFCI and it is in the bathroom.
Checked all the receptacles in the home. These are the only receptacles not working.
Checked out a receptacle in another room. The examination showed that they used the push-ins to connect the wires to the receptacle.

Back story: I used one of the receptacles (nearest to the breaker box) to power my computer, printers, small TV, etc. I used three multi-outlets to connect all the stuff to the receptacle. If everything is on the watts would be around 400 watts. When I connected my 1500 watt portable electric heater to the system the power went out. I checked the breaker. It was not tripped. Next, I thought it may have been one of the multi-outlets. I checked the multi-outlets and they checked out O.K. I then checked the receptacle. I found out that that there was no power to the receptacle. I checked the receptacle downstream of the “computer” receptacle. It had no power to it.

Note: I have been connecting the portable heater to the “computer” receptacle for the last 6 years and up to now no problems.

Note: I have not looked at the “computer” receptacle. The reason is that it is a bit difficult to get to being that my computer table is in the way. I also wanted to know what could be the problem before working on the receptacle.

Questions:

Could the “computer” receptacle be bad even though the outlet tester reads “correct”.
Could I have a short in the circuit? If so, how can I check for this?
Could the breaker be bad even though it reads 125 volts?
Why no power????????

I would appreciate any help you can give me.

It is late as I write this so it may not be until tomorrow (4-01-2014) before I can respond.

If you are using a simple outlet tester you could get a false positive.  You should always use something that draws some decent current, like a lamp. Here is a related story.  I unplug the electric clothes dry recently while cleaning the ducting. My wife plugged it back in afterward.  From then on, although the drum turned fine, the heat was intermittent. After checking a couple other things, I pushed the plug all the way in. Apparently, the motor ran on 120V, where the heater coil ran on 220V. Needless to say, I checked the plug and outlet for burns.


Minimun Water pressure for home in US Is there a minimum water pressure (PSI) level that US water utilities must comply to residential customers that is backed by the Federal Government (EPA)?

For months, I've been getting less than 7 PSI and have been contacting my local water authority and they have done nothing.

If there's a federal law or something, I can use that to help my case.

Given that the low pressure readings throughout your house were taken with zero flow from the water main to the house, the only possible cause is low water pressure in the water main.  There's nothing on your household side that could cause this zero flow low pressure reading.

There will be a height factor.  The higher you are above the connection to the water main, the lower the static pressure will be.  A rough guide is that you lose 1 psi for every 2 feet of vertical rise. Clearly, you can easily reach a height that the water cannot reach.

A consequence of this is that you, and all the others experiencing this low pressure, represent a potential hazard because of possible backflow into the water main.

Here http://www.freetoursbyfoot.com/water-towers-new-york/, is how the problem is solved in New York City, where tall buildings overwhelm the normal water main pressure.

Is your local utility missing a water tower?


Proper way to modernize 1940's cabin sub-panels This cabin is located in the United States, and was built in the 1940's.  However, it has obviously had various electrical panels added to it after its original construction.
I'm starting this new question, after my original question opened a can of worms: How do I wire a modern 240V 3 prong range to a 250V 50A 3 prong outlet?
Question: How do I combine all of these old panels into one new panel?
Specifically, I am looking for advice on what size panel I need, and where I can locate it.  Any recommendations on a specific panel that will meet my needs? I also need to know how I can legally get all the old wires into the new panel location.
Code Worries
Is this even possible to do legally without completely rewiring everything, since I am altering existing wiring?
Panel Advice
The home has what appears to be four 240V appliances (2 outlets, 2 hard wired).  There is a range top outlet, a washing machine outlet, and two water heaters that are hard wired.
I would like to look at changing all of the existing 120V outlets to be either AFCI or GFCI where required.  Can I do this at the breaker panel with the old wiring?  Or will I need to install GFCI outlets instead?
Extending existing wiring to new panel
How is this typically done?  A metal junction box to extend to new panel location?  If so, I'm assuming I would need a junction box in each place that one of the old panels is being replaced, right?
Knife Switch
I would like to keep the old main knife switch so I don't have to get PGE involved.  Can I just run one set of wires out of that knife switch to the new panel?  If so, how?  Just run 3 wires (2 hots and a neutral) to the new panel? What about a ground? And do I have to run the new feeder cable in conduit, or can I just run Romex to the new panel from the knife switch?

Location Where can I legally mount the new panel box?  Is it allowed to be on an exterior wall?

Photos of Old Panels

Requested Far Right Panel Image

Requested Fuse Box Panel Image

Outdoor Service Lines

Update Proposed New Location This looks like the best place for the new panel.  I'll clear all of this stuff out and relocate it.  There is about 50" of walkway space in front of it, and the space is a total of 44" wide.

This really needs to start with a conversation with your AHJ.   What you need to know is if your legacy setup is grandfathered.   And then you can have a talk about your options about modernizing it.
That knife switch, which I see high on the wall above a walkway, is not a player.  Simple as that.  It's not in a legal location for any service equipment to be.  You can't need a ladder to access any service equipment with controls - not a knife switch, panel nor GFCI.
So I would get a sign-off that your existing setup is grandfathered, and then, upgrade your meter to a "Meter-main".  Which includes the meter and a main disconnect+main breaker combo device.  The outside disconnect is a 2020 NEC requirement anyway.
Now you're in a position to do what you were hoping to do with the disconnect switch; make upgrades without involving PG&E.   By the way, we're not even sure the disconnect actually disconnects everything!
I take it this will deprecate the truly awful plumbing pipe misused as Rigid conduit.  I don't care if you use plumbing pipe, but you must use LL, LR or LB conduit bodies for your corners.  It's perfectly clear the piping was assembled around the wires. You can't ever do that!  Must complete the entire conduit path (empty) then pull the wires in.
Find a proper location for the new panel
This panel needs a working space 30" wide (including the panel but not centered on it), 36" deep, and 78" (6'6") tall. The space must remain clear at all times and cannot be crowded in with tables, shelves or benches, and cannot be used to store anything.
As such, the best place for it is a pathway.  I see a place on the wall directly below the soon to be retired disconnect.  Nobody will put stuff in the working area because it's a pathway.
There, you slap a 40- or 42-space panel of your choice.  If you foresee installing a generator, let us know as that'll focus your choices.  The panel can be main-lug if you really want it to be.
Replace the mini-panels
All of the mini-panels high on the wall get replaced by large junction boxes, such as a 6x6 or 4-11/16 square if they'll fit the wires.   I personally would run about six EMT conduits straight up out of the panel to a large at least 10x10" junction box "up there" above the panel.  Then, I'd run lateral conduits to the sites of the other four remaining panels, and install 6x6 or 4-11/16" square boxes there.  All in EMT or Rigid conduit.  That takes care of all grounding.  PVC can't say the same.
Take the time to learn metal conduit, even if PVC seems momentarily easier.  You'll thank me when you're running ground wires, or to be more precise, when you are not.
Now, each of the cables now coming into the four service panels, go ahead and bring them into those boxes obviously, with normal and proper cable clamps.  Then, using THHN/THWN wire, extend the wires via the conduits into the main panel.  No more than four circuits per conduit (unless the conduit is <2' long)... and respect conduit fill rules.
Common wire nuts will suffice for splices, though for #8 and larger consider MAC Block connectors.
AFCI/GFCI
Any circuit that requires AFCI, use an AFCI breaker.  AFCI receptacles are a joke, and do not do what they need to do.  If circuits need GFCI protection, you can use GFCI receps at the first outlet position in the part of the circuit where GFCI is required.
Make every effort to keep safety systems such as refrigerators, radon pumps, fire alarms, smoke detectors etc. entirely off GFCI/AFCI. While that protection is nice, it can't be allowed to compromise the safety function.  If you must put a fridge on GFCI, make sure it's a dedicated circuit.  That way, you don't have it tripping, having food spoil, then resetting it because you wanted something else to work all the time unawares that the fridge was on the circuit also and the food is now spoilt.  Relying on the chef or eater to detect spoiled food is a loser's game, as it breaks utterly for children, seniors, sickly, etc.


What are these containers called? I'm looking for a certain type of plastic container (around 2-3 gallons) that has a spigot on the bottom and allows you to drain liquid using gravity. I used to see them a lot in the Navy used for cleaning fluids but can't figure out what to search for to find them.

I'm ultimately looking for something I can put liquid into and attach surgical tubing to the "drain" or "spigot" and has an on/off valve.

Does anyone know what these are called or where I can find them?

I know you can get them from Uline, they call them Carboys.

I'm not sure if this is a standard name for a jug with a spigot, googling for carboy would lead me to believe it is not. As Jacob S pointed out, these are sometimes called a "rectangular carboy"

There is a similar product at The Container Store, they call them Slimline Fridge Jugs


How to clean a reusable HVAC filter My HVAC system is around 15 years old and I have a washable air filter.  The tech who looked at it last told me to clean the filter out and run water through it once a month.

He told me to let the filter dry for 3 hours before replacing it.  I had a different tech tell me, however, to shake the water out of the filter and put it right back in.

So that leaves me with two questions.

Do I let the filter dry for 3 hours or shake it and put it back?
Is it safe to let my HVAC run for 3 hours without a filter?

Thanks for all help in advance!

Depending on the filter media a soak and squeeze it out then put it back in some fiber filters you need to have 2 , pull the dirty one and put the clean one in now after cleaning in a week the fibers will be clean and dry , but if put in wet it can cause enough back pressure to rip the filter and on 1 or 2 models damage the blower motor. Some reusable filters do last for many years if regularly cleaned with non chlorinated water, I tell folks just put a few drops of jet dry in a gallon of distilled water this breaks the surface tension of the water and helps to remove any “dust” without harmful chemicals ,, heck you have it in your dishwasher to prevent spots, I have done this for years it helps to clean the 2 types of filters I have experience with. No comment for the - I give a +


Garage door lights: which cfl bulbs work? I discovered yesterday that led bulbs cause RF interference and disrupt the use garage door remotes.  While I could look for a low interference led bulb, they are rather expensive.  I had some cfl bulbs lying around, so I decided to try to use them.

One weird thing was that one cfl bulb worked, while the other cfls didn’t.  This has nothing to do with the light switch.  To test this, I turned the light on, and then tried various bulbs.

So the question is, why would this cfl bulb work on a garage door opener socket:

While this cfl bulb doesn’t work in a garage door opener socket (I tested it in a lamp and verified it is a functional bulb that lights):

What is the technical difference between the two that makes the garage door operate with one, but not the other?

How do I detect which bulbs will play well with my garage door opener remote?  You find out which radio frequency your remote uses, tune a radio to that frequency, turn on a candidate bulb, and listen.

How do I detect this pre-purchase, say from a product listing on Home Depot's website?  You don't.  The needs of your garage door opener are poorly documented, and the RF emission band diagrams of random bulbs are not documented at all.  Or even consistent enough to document! Nevermind manufacturing inconstencies, nothing keeps an LED marketer from changing internal parts and completely changing the RF frequencies it emits.

Now, about this:

  I discovered yesterday that led bulbs cause RF interference and disrupt the use garage door remotes

That's a blanket statement, and it's not true. Here is what is true:

High frequency electronic devices tend to emit radio frequency interference on the same frequencies, unless shielded.   If on the same frequency as your remote, it will drown out the weak remote signal.
CFLs, by nature of their design, must generate high frequency signal which is not practical to shield because it must reach the tube.  That frequency does not need to be high enough to interfere with garage doors, but that's cheaper.
LEDs natively want 3 volts DC, so no frequency at all. The problem is voltage conversion, most cheaply done by using a high-frequency chopper circuit, the higher the cheaper. This can be  shielded, not for free.
For the cheapest bottom-shelf consumer bulbs of both types, it's a game of pennies.  A shortcut that cuts manufacturing costs by 0.1 cent per unit will tend to be taken.
The FCC calls for shielding as part of its Part 15 certification, but this may not be enough to prevent interference. Some cheaper manufacturers fake this certification.

The answer is to redline CFLs immediately, and look for LEDs that have been designed with care to not create this high frequency interference. These will be consciously designed products, and will not benefit from the extreme "optimizing for cheapness" that our Chinese, um, allies are so fond of putting in products marketed to us.


Do I need rebar and footing for a 1'4" tall 4" thick concrete wall? I'm building a small concrete wall for an inground sandbox. The wall will be about 1'4" tall 4" thick and the longest 2 sides run just over 80" long, it is an L shape and the other sides are fairly short. Do I need rebar for this, or can I just use a concrete reinforced with fiber? Do I need footings?

If this is a kids sandbox I'm assuming they'll likely outgrow it at some point. When the time comes to remove it you won't want rebar in there. If it doesn't serve any other purpose than a border for the sandbox then I'd skip the rebar.


Electric Wiring in Bathroom Remodel I am remodeling my bathroom in a home built around 1995. I have a fan/light/heater unit in the ceiling that is operated by three wall switches. There is a separate switch next to the 3-switch box that operates the vanity light. I am attaching a drawing showing the wiring that goes to the fan in the attic, and the wiring that goes to the switches on the wall in the bathroom.

What I would like to do is replace the existing combo fan with a fan-only fan, plus add two areas of led recessed lights (ceiling and shower niche)with dimmer switches. Obviously, I would like to use existing switch wiring, and make modifications in attic to accomplish this, but I am at a loss. Is there any hope for this frustrated "electrician"?

OK so one problem at a time.

First, the fan/heater/light.  They did a big cheat when they wired it, and violated the "all currents must be equal in a cable" rule.  Current goes up the right cable [to heater(red), fan(black) or light(white!)] and then returns on the left cable. No no no no!

Also, I like color codes for purpose: black for always-hot, red for switched-hot, blue for alternate switched-hot, etc.  You don't have a choice in cable, but you can mark wires with tape, and I'll ask you to.  Always mark both ends of a wire the same way.   As an aside, if there's a neutral in cable, it must be white.

It appears the center cable is the power supply, so it is already correctly colored: black for always-hot and white for neutral.

The fan, properly

Where the black fans off to the 3 switches, is fine.  Please tape the red wires black since they are always hot. And if you are OCD, on the left switch, exchange wires so always-hot is on the bottom like the others.  Thanks.

Since you are deprecating the heater, you can do this now.  The left cable can continue to be ignored.   The right cable will be redesignated:

white for Actual Neutral
red for switched-hot-fan-light
blue (use blue tape to re-tag black) for switched-hot-fan-fan

Move the white wire from cable 3 into the neutral wirenutted bundle, blue(black) on the top of the "light" switch.   The left cable can be ignored, leave its neutral in the bundle since we'll use it soon.

Up in the fan unit, disconnect the neutral from the left cable and cap off both its wires.  All connections there are to the right cable.  You can do this right now, and I recommend you do even while you continue the old combo fan in service.  Later, when you install the LEDs, you'll use only the blue (fan) and white (neutral) for the fan, and fork off the red (light) and white (neutral) for one of the sets of LEDs.

That was easy. Magic of colored tape!

The new LED lights, 120V method

One of the two sets of LEDs can easily be powered using the red and white wires that went up to the fan.  Extend some /2 cable to the new LED location.

The left cable becomes the power for the other LED.  Its white wire stays in the neutral bundle and land its black wire (recolor it orange or yellow, whatever you have tape for) on the remaining switch.

However, I really don't like 120V power inside a shower/tub area.   Also LED dimming with 120V products doesn't work nearly as well as 12V dimming.

The new LED lights, DC method

DC makes a lot of sense if you can procure the parts (and we're not a shopping site, so we can't help there.)  LED dimming works much better on DC, and DC is not a hazardous voltage.

In this case, I would retask the black/white of the left cable to power the fan only, via the left switch.  All 3 of the wires from the right cable will be disconnected from the AC power system entirely.

It's hard to go into more detail without looking at the particulars of the hardware you end up going with, so this is the point to ask another question.


Forced hot air and mini heat pump I recently bought a house and I have forced hot air currently. It works fine, the only issue I have with it is that it constant turns on and off. I've been looking into mini heat pumps and they seem pretty nice (the whole ductless aspect). So I was wondering if anyone has experimented with using both? I was thinking of adding one mini heat pump for each unit (it's a multi family) not only as a backup, but to keep the forced hot air from turning on and off so often. Any ideas on how efficient/practical this might be?

It'll work well as long as your mini split unit isn't conditioning the area near the thermostat for the forced hot air unit. If they're too close together, the mini split will make the forced air thermostat think it's always the perfect temperature, so it will never call for heat, and the rest of your rooms will never be comfortable.

The added expense of adding a mini split to multiple units is probably going to be a lot more than having someone fix the problem of the forced air unit constantly turning off and on. Running the circulation fan for 35%-100% of the time in the heating season might be a good and much more inexpensive solution without looking into it further.


How to add a main shutoff breaker to sub panel I have a 50 amp service line that I'm running to a sub-panel in my outdoor workshop. Rather than plug the service line directly to the buses on the sub-panel, I'd like to add a 50 amp breaker first.

I just can't find how to do this. I'm assuming I plug the service lines to the breaker and breaker to the sub-panel and now the bus has the 50 amps ready to use. Is this true?

Or do I have to run additional wiring from that breaker to the bus posts?

Some panels will allow you to backfeed a breaker. AIUI that requires a kit to bolt the backfed breaker in place. Not every panel permits this.

Honestly, the BEST approach (and simplest - you don't need to order a kit to bolt in the breaker and figure out if the panel is listed for that use) is to return the sub-panel and pick up a main breaker panel, 100, 125 or 200 A (more about spaces than "amp rating" - the main breaker will be serving as a switch, while the 50A overcurrent protection will be back at the feed end of the wire.) Sometime the economics are weird enough (high volume of main panels) that it may actually cost less than a smaller sub-panel that they don't move a lot of.

Remove the bonding screw so that the panel is properly wired as "a sub-panel with main breaker" which might also mean you need to add some ground bars to keep the isolated neutrals and the grounds separated.


What's the best way to insulate an attic with 2x4 joists? My 1938 home currently has zero insulation (aside from a few fiberglass batts haphazardly tossed about). The ceiling joists are 2x4 (spaced 16 inch OC), rather than the more modern standard of 2x6 or 2x8.

This home is in California, with a mild climate even by California standards: temperatures dip below freezing and top triple-digits only a handful of times each year.

My question is: What is the best way to insulate the attic?

Here are my options as I see them:

Put standard fiberglass insulation that's appropriate for the climate (probably R-38) between the joists. Since this insulation will be 12 inches thick, the top will sit above the joists, but will not cover them. Some amount of thermal transfer will still occur through the joists themselves.
Put insulation meant for 2x4 framed walls between the joists (which will be the same height as the joists), then lay a perpendicular layer of attic insulation (maybe R-30) on top of them.

Option 2 has the benefit of preventing any thermal bridging via the ceiling joists. The drawback is that, according to Home Depot, the cost of 2x4 wall insulation is comparable to the thicker, R-38 attic insulation, so I will effectively be doubling my material costs by getting both types of insulation (approximately 700.00 for each layer on my 900 sq. ft. house).

Is it worth it to spend the extra money to prevent thermal bridging via the joists, or will the difference in heating bills be so negligible that I'll never recoup the costs?

Blown in cellulose can be quite effective if all air gaps are located and sealed with expanding foam for this purpose. Look for gaps around light boxes/electrical, fan vents, and those in corners. Unless sealed, you'll lose heating and waste money. If the previous fiberglass batts had dark marks, they generally indicate an air leak.
You can lay insulation batts in the directions you mentioned, but I'd go with the most effective insulation at the lowest cost. If your attic has an access panel, insure you've built a "surround" and tightly sealing door, as well.


Cut part of the baseboard without removing it I need to cut part of my baseboard so I can push the wardrobe all the way against the wall.

Ideally, I'd like to cut it installed, and pull only the part that needs to be removed.

I have patience, I know it is required as I'll have to cut slowly to prevent damaging the sides (that won't be removed).

What manual/hand tool would you suggest to cut the baseboard?

Once both sides are cut, I will use a puller to remove it from the wall, leaving the sides installed.

Thank you for any help!

Something great for this is an "oscillating multi tool".

They have various blades and sanding attachments, but the straight cutting blade in the picture above will probably be the best thing for cutting out a piece of molding like you are considering.

You can control the depth of cut (by hand, manually) and they can cut right next to the floor to get a complete cut.  I've used it to cut molding next to a door when installing slightly wider door casing.  I've also used it to cut the length off of door jambs when installing thicker tile (like a flush-cut saw).


Safety equipment for a pressure washer I'm planning to use a pressure washer for the first time, as a "once off" task, to clean and remove caked-on and ground-in mud, dirt and debris from rebar and concrete beams,  before I pour concrete to embed them.

The pour was delayed for over a year, during which time everything was heavily soaked, walked on, ground in, and baked on, during that time, so I need to strip back to the materials themselves before pouring.

I'm aware of the seriousness of injuries that pressure washers can cause. I'm likely to be using an electric-powered washer at the higher end of domestic pressure, in the region of 130 bar/2000 psi operating - not "maximum" - pressure. I've got steel toe leather boots, leather welding gauntlets, and a cheap full-face plastic visor possibly with goggles too, lined up. I can't think of anything specific I could use for leg, torso and arm protection.

I'll be working mainly in a long 1.2m x 70cm trench, and spraying the beams and steels  from below and at the ends of the beams. The beams stick 20-25cm into the trench from one side. That means it will involve close-range work, at upward and other odd angles, with no scope for a long lance and even "full arms-length" won't be practical for much of it. On a positive note, being in a trench also means there's less scope to trip or fall over, and recoil force should be ok since I'll be almost always be within inches of a rigid vertical backstop behind me.

Obviously I'll be pointing it away from me (!) and aiming for avoidance in the first place, but if I'm accidentally caught directly by the spray, by flying debris, or by water spray "bouncing" off the target, will these be adequate, and what else might be appropriate?

Also on a similar note, is the spray bouncing back off the target still capable of causing serious injury, or has it lost enough force on impact to no longer do so?

Comment: I'm not looking for answers that just say "most people don't do that much, so it's fine" (I know that most people don't do this much). I've had serious injuries and am quite motivated to avoid another. I'm more looking for reasoned comment on the proposed safety measures, the risks, and the scope/reasonableness of anything else that could be worthwhile. Thanks :)

Unless you are unusually clumsy, the extraordinary protective devices you've listed would be excessive.

Eye protection in the form of safety goggles or safety glasses would be appropriate. If the debris you are blasting is at or above eye level, your clear plastic shield provides sufficient protection for your entire face. An ordinary ball cap for head protection takes care of the top.

If you don't care about being soaked by the water, long sleeve shirt with a button up collar and suitable long pants and boots will protect the rest of your body. Hand protection by gloves of almost any type (other than latex or nitrile) will do the job well.

If you wish to avoid being soaked by the spray, there are inexpensive Tyvek brand full body coveralls, equipped with hoods that will shed water. I've used them to operate a weed eater and avoid the "back-spray" of vegetative matter from the cutter. It would be well suited for use with a pressure washer in the environment you describe. All that would be needed beyond the coveralls is a pair of gloves, as the suits include built-in booties.

The bounced spray has very little power. I've been struck in the face with bounced spray and it has approximately the force of a strong rain. You may already be aware that the direct force of the spray can cut skin. I can confirm that.

I suspect the biggest danger to which you will be exposed is debris and gravity. If the debris is small and the distance is short, neither item should be much of a factor. The air space under a Tyvek coverall and the fabric will absorb much of that energy.


Can a 20 amp GFCI outlet be daisy chained to 15 amp outlets I am using 20 amp breaker. My starting point is a 20 amp GFCI outlet.

I have it daisy chained to four 15 amp outlets. Is allowed by code?

Yes, this is specifically allowed by code (NEC).

A 20A general use circuit can supply 15A or 20A receptacles.


HVAC unit won't come on This morning I noticed that my main floor wasn't cooling. I found the condensation pump full ( little giant model VCMA-15ULS ). I disconnected the hose from the unit to the pump, drained it, dumped the pump and reconnected it.

The aprilaire 8446 display unit clicks when I turn down the temperature but the hvac unit itself ( model FA4CNF030, doesn't show manufacturer ) never comes on. I've tried turning the circuit on / off at the power panel.

I also tried swapping out pumps with another and disconnecting the switch that is in the pan at the bottom of the unit for condensation flooding. Each time I powered the unit off and even hit reset on the aprilaire control unit at the wall.

What else can I do to try and get this puppy to come alive?

The first thing to check is if the air handler will come on when you turn the heat on. If the air handler will kick on and circulate air but not when you call for AC than you may have low refrigerant pressure.

Most AC systems have a switch that prevents the AC from running with low pressure to avoid damage to the compressor. If this is the case then I'd recommend calling a local AC repair service to have them charge the system.


Grounds twisted without wire nuts In my 1984 house, inside switch boxes, there are many instances where bare ground wires are twisted together without wire nuts. They are twisted really tightly about 4-5 turns.

It has almost certainly always been like this. The house was built by a reputable builder, who presumably used a proper electrician.

Is this per code?

The previous owner replaced a few switches with dimmers (didn't connect the ground). I am now replacing some of the dimmers with LED rated dimmers. This box is non-conductive.

I plan on adding a ground wire to the existing twist and adding a big wire nut. There are four 14 AWG wires in the twist, now there will be five.

Or, if that is too many for a wire nut, there is a second circuit in this 4-gang box. Can I use a ground from a different circuit? (only two wires in this twist)

It's not a legal method now to not use a Listed connector, I don't know if it was ever technically legal, but the the NW US that was common practice back in that era.

Wire connectors have specific combinations that are Listed for it's use, but the normal colors represent trade norms. A yellow would be too small, a red would be fine, a tan which is between the two is normally Listed for 5 #14's, but the 4 wires being pretwisted increases their diameter, and you will likely struggle to get it to work properly.

All grounds are suppose to be bonded together, a typical large blue wingnut is only listed for up to 6 #12's or #14's, often you will find more than that jammed in, but the proper method is to jumper two smaller connectors together, or use a push in connector with enough ports. Using a push in connected with previously twisted and bent wires sometimes proves challenging. It might be best to use a red on the existing bundle with a pigtail to the second smaller bunch, and add your new ground wire there.


What is this tubing in the basement? I saw a house for sale today and my realtor and I couldn't figure out what this was attached to the water heater, some kind of water piping/tubing. We'll get to the bottom of it with the inspection, just impatient to know what on earth this is. House built in 1984.

That would be your water distribution system, aka supply plumbing. Cross linked polyethlene, or PEX for short; Using a manifold arrangement.

Most likely the red ones are hot water, the white ones are cold.

Only gets confusing if there's also a hydronic heating system also using PEX, but no more so than when they were all copper, or iron.


Basement Bathroom Rough-In Configuration I'm investigating if I can use an existing basement bathroom rough-in as is.

To date, everyone I've asked has said the concrete needs to be broken up and the plumbing re-arranged.  I think the tub and toilet drain may be usable as is, but the sink drain doesn't seem to make sense.

Just wanted to throw the configuration I have out to a broader audience to see if there are any thoughts before I decide that breaking up the concrete is necessary.

Thanks.

Scott

I think you don't "have to" break up the concrete.

Let's say your shower/tub extends out 30inches.  Whether you have to break up concrete around shower pan or for tub depends on what you install.  The last few pans I installed in basements met above grade -slightly.  Also note that you will have to find a pan/tub that fits those exact dimensions or you will have to move it or make your own pan.  Breaking concrete and moving the PVC over a few inches is a very DIY job.
Based on the 30 inches above you would have 15.5" to shower from toilet and per your picture 14.5" on the other side.  You would have to check with your local inspector but this would pass where I live.  It will be kind of tight but not terrible.  Toilets are about 15 inches wide so you are going out 7.5 inches on each side.  So you have about 6-7" on each side - most towns require 6" by me.  When you add in your drywall you are getting very close but still within most regulations.
You put up privacy wall that extend past vertical pipe.  I would frame this wall with 2x6 so plumbing access is easier.  Pop a vanity on opposite side of toilet and you are all set.

This had to be the configuration that was previously given to your town if the work was permitted.  I suggest you ask them for any paperwork associated with it.  I know I have to give detailed sketches before any rough-ins so as long as they did things the right way there is probably a sketch of your bathroom.

My opinion... Toilet space is kind of tight but not horrible.  I have seen toilets 1 inch from walls.  You still crap in them.  This isn't as bad.  I like the layout though.  One person can take a crap without being in the other person's face.  Note that having this privacy wall will trap moisture so you better have a good vent fan by the shower/toilet.  I like it.  If you are tight on space I would try to work with this.  If you can add space then I might think about moving the vertical stack over a few inches - really an hour or two of work at most.


12V lighting circuit I'm about to commission a total refit and rewire of a one bedroom apartment in Spain. I'm considering completely skipping a conventional 220v lighting circuit, and replacing it with a solar-battery-12v LED based installation. My fag packet calculation (taking into account, losses and winter sun-hours) reckons a 100W panel and 30Ah battery will be enough.

For me the pros are cost (as I need some areas lit throughout the day), and the ability to easily wire in Arduinos to provide smart switching.

Are there any pitfalls or downsides?

If you are considering only LED lighting and no other use, allowing for the Arduino aspect, your concept may work well enough.

The primary reason for higher voltages is to reduce current losses through wiring resistance. Transmission lines are extremely high voltage for that reason.

In a configuration such as you suggest, the low voltage will have greater power loss due to wiring resistance, but it will be greater only by comparison to more extreme situations. Your wiring runs are likely to be short enough as to permit heavier gauge wiring to ameliorate resistance losses, without an excessive expense.

You will want to incorporate some fusing or breaker device for overload protection, as a 30 ampere-hour battery can provide enough energy to melt the insulation and/or cause a fire if inadvertently shorted.

You didn't mention a charge controller, nor the battery chemistry. You will want to ensure that you do not overcharge the battery and also to follow the correct charge profile based on the battery chemistry.

Lead-acid batteries, especially valve-regulated sealed lead-acid batteries do not do well with overcharging. Flooded lead-acid batteries will release acid vapor and damage surroundings when charged at high levels.

Lithium based batteries also have special considerations, outside the scope of this forum.

On the upside, free electricity is great, if you are able to balance your expense with the local utility costs.


Repair Deep Plaster Damage on Outside Corner Looking for advice on how to repair this large and deep damage to an outside corner on an old wall. Materials are plaster over rock lath, for what it's worth. You can see the rock lath through the plaster in the first photo. Haven't found anything online about how to repair a corner with damage this deep.

In the second picture you can see the big picture of what I'm repairing. Just as a sanity check, I'm repairing the other smaller corner cracks with mesh tape. There are also some small hairline cracks that I'm skimming over. If any of that sounds wrong, please let me know.

I think I'd be installing modern corner bead. I expected to see an early version of it in your corner, but there's apparently nothing.

Grab a stick of corner bead and some long drywall nails. Pre-drill the plaster if you have to, then nail it on, making sure to get good penetration in the framing.

I'd use a setting-type joint compound for the rough fill to add toughness, then skim with your favorite joint compound.


Wood plank falling off fence A wooden plank on my fence is sagging. It's stuck so it's very hard to push it back up. How do I put it back in place and what tool should I use?

I would use a tool called a "superbar" (sometimes called a pry bar). It looks like a crowbar, but is smaller and flatter

Place some wood on the pry part and use it to help push the board back into place.


Water pressure in apartment (2nd floor in two floor building) lower since new pipes and new shower I live in Seattle. I don't know anything about plumbing but after a problem on the ground floor, over two days all pipes in my apartment and one below were changed. I didn't want them changed but they said they hadn't been changed for many years and this had to be done. Then we both got new showers, which work differently from old ones. Mine used to have separate hot water and cold water knobs but apparently the management is installing new showers in all their 10+ buildings, and these ones are like one knob for both hot and cold water and also a wider shower head which spreads the water out way more than my last one.
I feel like the water pressure is lower and told the manager and he said he had not heard from anybody but would send the plumbers. A guy came and took a look for 20 seconds and said it's normal.
I'm perplexed because whenever I shower I definitely feel a change. It's not just the shower head, which obviously does not direct the water the same way. When I soak in the tub, letting it fill, it takes longer too.
My questions:

Could a new shower lower pressure? Like having one knob vs two? Because when I used to turn both knobs to the max, that seemed to produce more pressure than pulling out this one knob to the max.

Could new pipes, due to diameter or build quality affect pressure?

Thank you so much.

It's quite likely that one shower fixture might well deliver less water (gallons per minute) than another one. This change might save your landlords a good deal of money over a number of buildings, especially if they are paying for the water heating.
Since you are in a rental, and you have a shower that works, whether or not it works exactly as it used to, your option is to move when your lease is up, or not. You are not describing a "problem" you could reasonably expect to break a lease over, or have your landlords change.


Should I mop or sanitize subfloor prior to flooring install? During the past few months of renovation I tore up a bunch of laminate flooring to address various issues and I am finally circling back to installing the new floating floor. I'm realizing after doing a thorough vacuuming with the shop vac that there is still a lot of dirt and dust on the osb/plywood(mixed around the house). I'll be laying underlayment down (Quietwalk) but want to make sure I'm not trapping a lot of organic matter(dirt, drywall dust, sawdust etc) that may lead to mold etc. if there was ever moisture trapped.
Wondering if I should mop and let it dry? Apply TSP or concrobium or bleach? Or seal it all in with primer just to be sure(BIN 123 or something)
Or am I just overthinking this?

You should not mop, and you should not worry about it. The entirety of your subfloor is organic. Mopping will only create an actual problem--moisture soaked into your subfloor.
If you saw what carpet and other flooring typically goes over after a new build or remodel you'd realize that your concerns are unfounded. Vacuum well to prevent dust creep later and carry on.


Is it safe to use Greenboard drywall in a shower? I've seem a lot of people telling that greenboard drywall SHOULD NOT be used in bathroom and wet areas. However, in Brazil (where drywall is kind of a novelty yet) the manufactures recommend greenboard for bathrooms and describe treatments to make it safe to use (even with tiles), not only that, but cement board is very difficult to come by here.

Basically, it says that the junction between the wall and the floor must be waterproof treated up to at least one feet up the floor (using various methods). Shower areas should be completely waterproof using the same technique, and after that you can install tiles using a flexible grout and mortar on top of the waterproofed drywall.

My question now is: is it safe to use greenboard if done in that (correct!?) way?

Green board is basically sheetrock with a waxy paper face. It's not as stiff as cement board, nor as waterproof, both of which are nice to have when applying tile.

CAN you use it? Sure. It's been done before. Is it to code? Not sure. You'd have to check with your local authorities.

If you decide to use it, see if you can find a product called 'redgard'. It's a paint-on waterproofer that should help keep the green board dry.


Switched outlet in my attic - requried by code to not always be hot? I was installing an HDTV antenna in my attic and there's an outlet up there to which I can plug in the amplifier. The problem is that both outlet plugs are switched - they're connected (along with two lights) to the light switch right by the attic door. When I turn off the switch, I lose power to my antenna amplifier as well (I resolved my problem short term by leaving the switch on and unscrewing the light bulbs).

It doesn't make sense why the plugs are switched - can I wire them to power to they're always hot, or is that against code? I'll just pull live power from the switch to the plugs if I can - it's not far - but I don't want to cause code or safety problems later.

Thanks! I live in Arizona, but if there's a potential code concern, I'll consult an electrician.

No, there is no requirement that an outlet in the attic be switched.

If there is an attic fan, there is a requirement there be a switch for that, in case someone gets caught in it.  Local code could interpret the fan switch requirement in such a way that if an outlet is placed so that a fan could be plugged into it, then the outlet must be switched.

Naturally for lights, most homeowners would want to be able to turn them off, so there should be a switch for those.

If I were you, I would rewire it so the outlet is always live and the switch only turns on/off the lights.  Who could possibly object to that?


Craftsman garage door opener works intermittently It's been acting up lately, sometimes it works fine and other times it doesn't work at all.  Sometimes it opens and closes only partially?  Now it only works when I unplug it and plug it back in, but only works once!  I've checked all the wires and sensors and they are good.

Verifying that the door operates correctly and without excessive force with the opener disconnected is a required first step. If the door jams, the opener cannot be expected to work well.

Given a mechanically sound door system that operates properly by hand, odd behavior in "modern" (25 years or less, perhaps) garage door openers is almost always a sign of "time to replace the logic board."

It's actually a slightly fraught choice, since a logic board is typically 1/2 the price of a replacement opener, and the replacement opener comes with a warranty, while the logic board often does not, and there's always the possibility that it won't fix the actual problem.

That said, I've replaced one and it did cure the problems that opener was having (which were life-threatening and probably resulted from a nearby lightning strike - I also added a surge suppressor to the outlet.)


Recess light not working (https://i.stack.imgur.com/XpDWG.jpg)

Installed 6inch can.   2 junction boxes. Left 1 set of 12/3 .Righthand 1 set of 12/2.   Dual 3way switches.  Wires seem fine and switches seem fine except side plastic between black/red wires is cracked.

Hooked up white of light to righthand white in the 14/2.
Hooked up black of light to black of both 14/3 and 14/2.
Hooked up red (switch hot?) To black of light.

Light is constant on, but both switches do not operate on or off functions at all.

Your explanation is confusing.

However, the one thing that stands out is you said you connected the black of the light to BOTH of the blacks in the cable AND the red.

  Hooked up black of light to black of both 14/3 and 14/2. Hooked up red (switch hot?) To black of light.

A device can only be connected to one wire that is either always hot or switched. You have apparently connected the light to all three hot wires in this circuit.

You need to study standard electrical wiring diagrams a little more and check your wiring again.

Good luck!


Pipes vented to patio I have gas pipes being vented into a fenced in patio area.

3 years ago , I called the fire department as the gas meter inside was reading too high as I was getting dizzy. I can no longer open the windows in the kitchen as the pipe is under them.

Today, I was sweeping my patio area and the  exhaust came on. I immediately got dizzy and left the area. The gate was open so I thought it would be ok but obviously it wasn't.

Are there regulations on installing these pipes as the fire department didn't seem to have enough experience with it.

I live in New Brunswick.

I'm in the process of buying long extension pipes. Why would the gas company be permitted to install them in this location?

Thanks

Carbon Monoxide
While anything is possible, and I have heard of people claiming to be sensitive to natural gas itself, what typically causes problems are the products of combustion of natural gas. That matches with "the exhaust came on". So the rest of this answer is based on the problem NOT being a natural gas leak (which would be often under control or at least supervision of the local natural gas utility) but rather a carbon monoxide or other combustion problem.
When a natural gas appliance (furnace, cooktop, water heater, generator, etc.) is running, the primary combustion products are water and carbon dioxide. However, if natural gas (or other carbon fuels) does not burn properly, due to insufficient oxygen or equipment malfunction, carbon monoxide (CO) can be produced. Carbon dioxide is harmless in small amounts but in large amounts can cause problems. Carbon monoxide is harmful even at low levels and can be fatal. CO is odorless and colorless and symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu and often, tragically, not spotted in time. (And recently used as a way to nearly kill the main characters in a science fiction novel, https://www.amazon.com/Delta-v-Daniel-Suarez/dp/1524742414 , but I digress...)
The detection and resolution of a carbon monoxide problem, unlike a natural gas leak, is typically the responsibility of the homeowner and not the utility. Which means calling in a qualified HVAC technician to check the equipment and repair, replace or redesign portions of it as needed. The most important thing is to make sure that under normal operation, there is no significant amount of carbon monoxide either inside (e.g., near the furnace) or outside (the exhaust pipes). Assuming that is resolved, then there are two additional things to do:

Consider extending/redirecting the exhaust pipe for carbon dioxide. It is possible that if you are outside near the exhaust and it is running properly that the carbon dioxide could affect you. It shouldn't be a big problem, but if you have ruled out carbon monoxide then that is a possibility and the exhaust should be directed farther away. Typically it will be directed up as well - e.g., through the roof, though that may not always be an option.

Add carbon monoxide detectors. You should have one one on each level, and one not too far from any natural gas appliances. This is important because a combination of incomplete combustion combined with a cracked heat exchanger could result in carbon monoxide inside your house.


What is open time, working time for adhesive? Most floor adhesives specify open time and working time. The instructions on the can of glue do not spell out the meaning of these terms. Looking on the Internet yields ambiguous results.

To my best understanding, as of now:

Open time -- minimum required time from when adhesive is applied to when installation can begin.

Working time -- maximum allowed time for installation to complete, from start to end. Or is it from the time when adhesive is applied (thereby, including open time)?

Open Time*

The amount of time the adhesive should be left to set, before it is covered.
If you're gluing two sticks together, with an adhesive with 30 seconds open time. You should apply the glue to one stick, then wait at least 30 seconds before affixing the second stick.

The amount of time the adhesive can be left before it is covered.
If you're gluing two sticks together, with an adhesive with 30 seconds open time.  You should apply the glue to one stick, and affix the second stick before 30 seconds has elapsed.

Working Time
The amount of time from when the adhesive has set, to the time it will no longer bond.
Again gluing two sticks together, this time with an adhesive with a 5 minute working time.  Once you apply the glue to the first stick, you have to affix and position the second stick in less than 5 minutes. If you don't affix the sticks within this time, the adhesive will not bond (or at least is not guaranteed to bond).
Set Time
The amount of time the adhesive needs to form a good bond.
Back to the sticks, this time with an adhesive with a 10 minute set time.  Now that the sticks are affixed, you'll have to wait 10 minutes before they are adequately stuck together.
Pot Life
The amount of time an adhesive can remain viable after being mixed.
If you're gluing the sticks using a 2 part epoxy, with a pot life of 2 hours.  Once you mix the epoxy, you have 2 hours to use it before it becomes useless.
Notes
*Some manufacturers use open time, and working time interchangeably. Open time should only be assumed to be different than working time, when working with adhesives that need to activate or set before being usable.
After doing more research, it appears there really isn't a set vocabulary used throughout the industry.  Your best bet would be to contact the manufacturer, and ask them what they mean.


Can I damage my water heater by turning the gas valve to the off position? We have a water heater in a new house that we bought.  We have not moved into it. I decided to turn the gas off to it so that I wouldn't be wasting and paying for gas.  Will this damage the water heater in any way?

We have not moved into it so we are not really using water. The contractors are there and they use very little water.

It's been a couple of months since I've turned off the gas valve at the water heater.

No it wont hurt the water heater. Turning the gas on and allowing the burner to operate with an empty water heater would damage it, but no gas, with or without water in the tank will not hurt anything.
Be aware, water left in the tank may smell like rotten eggs until flushed for 10 mins or so prior to use.
It would be ideal to shut off water supply to water heater, shut off the gas on the control valve itself, and drain the water heater.
When youre ready to start using it again, simply open the hot side of a faucet, turn on water supply to the water heater; faucet will spit and blow as the air purges from the hot water pipes. Once faucet is flowing normally, shut off hot faucet, set w/h control to pilot, and light pilot flame per w/h instructions, then follow w/h instructions for setting water temp.

Just NEVER operate a water heater,  gas or electric, with no water in the tank.


Timer with a Dimmer Switch I have exterior lights on a timer switch.  The lights are too bright.  Can I add a dimmer switch to adjust the brightness?  And change the timer switch to a three-way switch.  Will that work?

Can I add a dimmer switch to adjust the brightness?

Yes, the dimmer would just be added in series with the timer.

  And change the timer switch to a three-way switch

Normally, a timer controller goes on the feed to the circuit for outside lights without any other switches. However, you can wire things any way you have the imagination for within reason. If you connect the timer as a 3-way the other switch will override the timer anytime it is operated. If that is how you want the circuit to operate then it can be done.

A switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-PLS750C1000-Ti072-3W-Sunrise-Required/dp/B01IAEPFD4
Can be used as a single pole or 3-way switch.

Good luck and stay safe!


Can a grounding conductor from equipment terminate in a metal box grounded via EMT? I have EMT leading to a metal junction box, and from that box goes plastic liquid tight to some equipment. Currently I have a ground conductor running all the way back to the panel, but I'm wondering if it's enough to terminate that ground at the metal junction box (so that the EMT back to the panel forms the remainder of the equipment ground).

Related question: how do I properly bond the 10 ga grounding conductor in the liquid tight to the metal box? Crimp a ring terminal on it?

Yes, it's allowable to tie a ground wire to a junction box and let the metal conduit carry it the rest of the way back.

However, if the ground wire is already in the pipe, I'd leave it in there - belt and suspenders - unless you need the conduit fill.

You terminate a ground wire at a junction box by attaching it to a ground screw.  Virtually all junction boxes have a hole tapped #10-32 specifically for ground screws, which are sold either with or without pigtails.   You can put 1 wire on that screw, or any sensible number of ring terminals.   Make sure the ring terminals are UL listed for use in mains power.


How can I increase boiler system pressure so bleeding 3rd floor radiators is easier? It is very difficult to bleed air out of my 3rd floor radiators.  I need at least 23 pounds according to the gage on the boiler, and ideally closer to 30 (but not too close!), to speed things up.  The reducing autofill valve is set to its maximum, which according to the documentation is 25psi, but nevertheless the bleeding fizzles out at around 18 (according to the gage on the boiler) and I have to run downstairs, manually open the reducing valve, bring it up to about 27 PSI (trying not to trigger the relief valve), and repeat, running up and down the stairs 6 or more times.
The system: Natural gas hot water radiator system.  Boiler in the basement with radiators on 1st, 2nd, 3rd floors.   23 radiators total of various sizes in two zones.  Floor-standing expansion tank.  Photos below.
How can I improve this ?
Replace autofill: If the boiler's pressure gage is correct, and the autofill valve documentation is correct, then I should assume my autofill has failed.  If I set it to maximum, 25psi should be perfect.  It should reliably bleed my 3rd floor radiators.  Is there some way I can verify that it has failed?  Replacing it is a big job and I would hate to do that with no change in behavior.
Redesign: The boiler’s instructions say Max 50 PSI.   Could I install a 40 PSI relief valve, a 30 PSI reducing valve, and charge the expansion tank to 27 PSI?   [ Please, I would appreciate specific technical OR code reasons why this would work, or not.  I do not need general hand waving about exploding boilers.   I get it.  I’m not going to do this as a DIY project.  ].
Other ideas?
Pictured: All relevant device labels and the floor-standing expansion tank that unfortunately is soldered in without a valve.
Note: My house is not freakishly tall and I know theoretical calculations about how many feet of water height equal one psi are different to what is implied by my question.  I'm going by the gage on my boiler, which may be imprecise, but more importantly I want enough pressure not just to equal the water height at the third floor, but to push it up with enough force to bleed out a radiator in some reasonable amount of time, ie to produce a satisfying hissing sound and allow me to stand there with the rad key and get it done in minutes not hours.

To get the minimum fill pressure of you system you can determine this in one of 2 ways:
#1, measure from the top of the highest point in the system to the pressure gauge on the boiler and divide that distance in feet by 2.3. For example if that dimension is 30 feet (30 divided by 2.3 = 13.0 PSI. This is the minimum pressure in the boiler for a cold fill and with nothing running. Also you should add 2-3 lbs pressure as a safety factor. of the system.
#2, Begin filling the boiler and have a 2nd person be at the top radiator with the bleed valve open and a container to catch any water that is discharged. When the water flows from that highest radiator, the pressure on the boiler is the minimum setting, and again add 2-3 lbs for safety factor. That is it.
Adding any more pressure will do very little to speed up the bleeding process. You can change the relief valve to any pressure as long as it does not exceed the pressure rating of the boiler and any device that is in the system. Theoretically, you could install a 50 psi relief valve but why would you. A higher than necessary pressure adds nothing to the operation of the system.


Can I use an airless paint sprayer to paint kitchen cabinets? Is an airless paint sprayer recommended for painting kitchen cabinets, boxes and doors?

You can use an airless sprayer but stay away from the inexpensive models.Consult your paint supplier if thinning is required. The one problem with spraying indoors is overspray and fume buildup in other areas of the house.If it is possible remove the cabinet doors,(mark them so you can tell where they go) and drawers. Mask off the garage floor and plug in a fan blowing out. This will keep the wind and overspray to a minimum.The face frames and cabinet sides can be done with a roller. Make sure you use an approved mask or respirator for the paint you are using.


1/4" male compression end on inline water filter to 3/8" male compression (fine threads) I have 2 faucets at my kitchen sink:  one for regular water stuff and the 2nd for drinking water.  Lines running from the drinking water faucet are 3/8" female compression.
My ecopure inline water filter has 1/4" male compression (un-removable), at both ends. I refuse to use any other inline water filter as I have tried several and only this 5 year ecopure removes all the odors/tastes.  ecopure changed the connections a few years ago.

I've figured out how to run from the kitchen sink cold water supply/shut-off valve (3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4" tee & 1/4" line), but cannot find a 1/4" female compression to 3/8" male compression adapter.  I can attach a 1/4" female compression line but will then need a 1/4" male compression to 3/8" male compression.  Any help is appreciated as I have been searching for a month now.

Since it seems that you already have the lines, I think all you need is a compression adapter fitting like this:

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-6759-4-Inch-Compression-Adapter/dp/B008E5CFC4/

It will screw onto the female 3/8" compression on the drinking water faucet and allow you to connect a 1/4" compression line to it (from the filter).

This is one of the most commonly sold compression adapter at Home Depot, so anyone in plumbing should be able to point you to it (if you're in the US... I'm sure Lowes and others sell it to.  Quite common.


What drainage slope does artificial grass need? what slope should an outside slab have which will have artificial grass glued to it?The slab is joined to a glass covered conservatory

Default minimum drainage slope for "flat" surfaces is 1/8" per foot.

Bring on the short answer complaint robot!


Maximum wattage from a 125 amp panel I would like to know what is the most amount of Watts that a home can theoretically draw from a 125 amp system. I know that the formula is W=A X V, but since a home has 2 120V lines on "split phase", I believe.

24,000 watts continuously.  Such as racks of Bitcoin miners.

Or 30,000 watts if it's an intermittent load like an anti-misile pulse laser.

However, we're not done.  If you inject 24,000 watts of heat into a house anytime but the dead of winter, the home will overheat, possibly to the point of damage when combined with normal solar load.  So ther  must be air conditioning to remove that heat.  That air conditioning plant will dig into your total energy budget.


New sink installation: garbage disposal sits lower and p-trap no longer at the right height for the drain I'm completely new with basic plumbing, but last ngiht after my new sink went in I tried reattaching the garbage disposal and new faucet. It wasn't too bad but the disposal sits a little lower than before so the p-trap no longer connects to the drain. See the image:

How do I go about attaching these parts?

A reversible p-trap

would allow you use an extension attached to the black elbow on the disposal. By using the reversible trap you are moving the long part of the trap to the j pipe side and creating distance on the disposal side that you then fill with and extension.


Water gets cold after ten minutes of use! Water runs cold after about 10 minutes of showering! Also there was black stuff coming out of bath pipe before. Just got a new water heater and it didn't fix the hot water problem :(.  What could it be?

The black stuff should've been from the new Water Heater installation & should've cleared right up. The Plumber likely had to shut-off the building's water & the valve had some deposits scraped off from operation of the valve.

But, the hot water running out so quickly is pointing to a hot water line leak. Since it wasn't noticed by anyone you could have pipes under the concrete slab of the ground floor or basement.

3-ways to discover & confirm a leak.

1 - Listen for hissing or slight high pitched rattling sounds or any unknown sound actually in the shower before turning anything on in the shower.

2 - Walk around in bare feet on the concrete slab to find a warm or hot spot.

3 - Turn off the Hot Water Valve at the Water Heater until your next shower & then turn the hot water back on just before your shower. Just turn it on a little & not wide open just 1/4 of the way.

If 1 & 2 don't find anything initially, but 3 does improve the showering then you do have a leak & go turn off the Hot Water after you're done using it again & until your next need.

Turning off the Hot Water Valve stops the hot water from leaving the tank & you get a full tank heating. Turning it back on just a little usually doesn't effect showering but limits how much hot water is lost through the leak. You can use the Water Heater this way indefinitely until the leak is found & repaired.


GFCI Circuit Breaker 'Test' works, but doesn't trip with plug tester I have a sub panel in my basement that has multiple GFCI circuit breakers.  All the 'TEST' buttons work.  However, when using a plug tester, they don't cause the breaker to 'Trip'.
The tester was tried in another plug that is hooked up 'downstream' from a GFCI plug and it successfully caused the GFCI plug to trip.

UPDATE:
In response to questions below:

I can 100% confirm the outlet is connected to the breaker
All grounds are wired correctly both at the panel and the plugs.
I will get a picture here shortly.
The tester used belonged to the inspector.  I'm on my way shortly to get my own to confirm.

Just a note here, the breakers in question are ALL GFCI/AFCI combination breakers.  Could this be why they don't trip with the tester?

UPDATE:
I was able to fix one of the breakers.  It turns out the White / Blank wires were reversed (According to the tester I got).  Once I fixed this and then ran the GFCI tester, it worked great.
I still have one more that I'm looking at will consider the 'Ground' solution proposed.

It sounds like the GFCI is not grounded. This is the proper method to change from a 2 wire / prong system to a 3 prong and be code compliant. Being close to the service panel you can now legally add a ground wire and the tester will trip the GFCI this recently became legal according to the national electric code. You are not required to add the ground but if close why not. The GFCI will still do its job without a ground. I know you said everything was connected but it sounds like an open ground to me.

In an actual life-safety situation that the GFCI protects, the extra current would be flowing through a person to ground (including just about any path from the person to the rest of the world). But with a tester, the extra current is going directly to the ground pin. If that pin is not connected to anything at all then the current doesn't actually flow (not a complete circuit) - and the GFCI doesn't trip.


Shift Concrete Column by few inches While building the foundation of a house, the concrete columns were built 15cm (6 inches) from the planned position, which is reducing the space for a door.

So we need to shift the column by 6 inches. How to do it? It's built upto the ground level only yet, and beam isn't  built over it.

Please point me to an appropriate place to ask this, if this is not one for civil engineering questions. Thanks.

Edit: Adding pic. The position that should have been there is shown below. But, C2 is shifted to left by 6 inches, and the column shown at the bottom of pic is shifted 6 inches to right. This leaves no space for the door to be placed as expected. Need a workaround.

Edit 2: In below pic, the upper column is shifted to left by 6", and lower 6" to right, leaving just 2'6" for door rather than required 3'6".

I would just angle the wall instead and leave plenty of room for a door.

My OCD likes right angles too but there is nothing wrong with a wall that runs at an angle, especially in this case.

Good luck!


How to get the state callback from a relay switch We have made an automation module with relay connecting the mains and the raspberry pi. We are maintaining the state for the switch on our server. We have the raspberry pi connected to the device over internet which can control the switch state. The problem we are facing is that when we turn on or turn off the switch from the physical switch on the main we are not able to get the state for the switch(whether on or off).... **is there any way to get the state from the physical switch to raspberry pi over relay**.

NOTE : I am a noob in electrical.

Actually use a double pole switch , one side for your control and the other side for your Feedback loop (indicator) vcc to supply the feedback when turned on. This is how it is done in the real world. (but that is the switch) to know if the relay is energized a similar setup is needed - one set of contacts for the control and the other for the feedback loop (indicator)  vcc to supply the feedback when energized.
In the real automation world these feedback connections would go to a PLC input and the PLC status for these inputs would be read by the program and / or the HMI .

EDIT 12 13 2017

After reading various comments I thought I should add this here:

Your wiring should be different - the relay should be the only control for the device hot wire. Your switch should control the relay just as your Pi Controls the relay (you can AND this or OR the function) Pi on AND switch on = device on. Typically if someone is remotely operating a device that could be a hazard to others - it should be an AND and you should have safety feedbacks to prevent operation if a hazard is present.

A rewire of your design is below.

EDIT 12/15/2017 BOTH TYPES AND AND OR CONDITION


A running toilet that stops itself I have a toilet that will start running as if the flapper is bad. (I’m confident it is not. I’ve replaced it twice.) It doesn’t drain much, just enough to trigger a fill every 20 - 30 minutes.

The strange thing is the tank only drains slightly and then stops. If I turn the water off it will only drain approximately 1/4 to 3/8’s of an inch and then stop draining completely. I can leave the water turned off for two weeks and it will never go below that level. I’m thinking if it were a bad seal it would drain completely after that time.

Is it a crack in the tank? I’ve just about had it and ready to replace the toilet. It’s approximately 20 years old.

Maybe there is a small crack or leak near the top of the toilet tank overflow tube. See diagram below at red arrow.

(Picture Source: https://titanzplumbing.com/does-your-toilet-randomly-start-running/)


Running a New Telephone Wire For Master Socket - Cross Over Electrical Cables I have moved into a property that was built in the 1930's so the walls are double wall cavity and also inside the house its all rock solid brick.

This causes me an issue whereby the Master Telephone Socket is in my hallway right in the middle of the walkway so at present my Sky Q Router sits on its side on the floor, obviously this causes an issue both for it getting kicked over and a trip hazard.

I've decided to wire in a new master socket behind my tv in the living room (I know BT would have issue with this). My question is my cable goes out of my living room wall into my garage the intention is to travel down my internal garage wall but it would pass my Electrical Meter located in the garage also (including my fuse box etc.).

My query is this am I going to affect my line quality by crossing my new telephone cable over my electrical cables? I understand my telephone line is low voltage and it isn't wise to run it in tandem next to electrical wire however I am just 'crossing-over' to get outside the property to get to the IDC Junction Box that connects my telephone pole wire to the house.

Sorry for the essay but thought it best to give all the facts.

Crossing power lines at a 90 will have no affects on the phone or data quality on the low voltage system.


Repair or exchange mower tire with different part number I own the following rider:

Searching for the online parts I find the following document:

IPL, McCulloch, M95-66X, 96021002300, 2011-12, Ride-on Mower

So in order to replace the front (right) wheel, I would need to order piece number:

  532 43 65-00 WHEEL ASM (FRONT)

I am having a hard finding the exact dimension of this wheel, in particular I'd like to compare it to another model which seems to be much cheaper on internet:

IPL, McCulloch, Mowcart, 96021001200, 2010-12, Ride-on mower

  532 43 69-46 WHEEL ASM (FRONT)

Where can I find the exact dimension of the wheel, can I exchange one with the other ? Is it possible to repair the tire only ?

For reference here is what my tire looks like:

and

This doesn't directly answer the question, but is, I believe, a good alternate:

Since you've already got the wheel/rim disassembled, I'd suggest taking the tire (bring the rim with you, just for fun) to a couple of local big-box hardware stores and see if you can find a replacement that matches*. If you can't find one there, try a local lawn-mower repair guy - he's bound to have and/or know where to get a replacement tire that'll work just fine.

Actually, I'd suggest going to your local lawn-mower repair guy first, just to help support a local business. You may pay a couple of dollars more, but (most likely) get great knowledge and service. He may even remount the tire for you at low/no charge. And he may get you going today instead of waiting for something to ship to you.

Worst case scenario, he'll tell you you need to order directly from McCulloch/Huskvarna directly, but he'll likely know which one will work.

* by "matches" I mean rim diameter & width and overall tire circumference. You need to be able to mount the new tire to the rim without it rolling off, and you want the same rolling diameter on both sides of the axle or you'll be steering in one direction just to go straight. If you absolutely cannot find one with the right outside circumference, you may need to buy two (if they're not terribly expensive) and replace both front tires, or bite the bullet and get the OEM part. I can't imagine that there are too many varieties of lawn mower tires, but, who knows...


Finger / Palm Prints on Danish oil stained wood Question: How do you get rid of hand prints on a pine table from under a treatment of colored danish oil?

Background
I was varnishing a new unfinished pine table, and decided to use a fine sandpaper over the surface of the table. However while doing this I rested my hand on the table, and might have left some sweat / body oil on the table. This was not visible on the unfinished table, but soon as I started applying the stain/Danish oil I noticed a lot of my hand prints appear in a few spots on the table.

I could sand down the entire finish and restart, but short of that, is there any other way that I can mask / get rid of those hand prints?

Thanks and Regards,
Basil Dsouza

You might try applying another coat of the stain/oil, applying it using superfine (0000) steel wool. Rub it in with the grain. This may help break up the residual film you left and let the stain penetrate a bit.

If it doesn't work, you'll be no worse off if you have to sand and refinish.


Rough-in Inspection of Existing/New Circuit Breaker I have an existing Circuit in my unfinished basement for light fixture. I am rewiring currently.
After rewiring for light fixtures, I am putting switches for each wherever possible, to make sure everything is went right after I turned the power ON.  I am not installing receptible for now.
So I have questions

Is this Ok to leave the switches there for existing breaker when electric inspection comes ?
I'll have to take them out before drywall

For new Circuit breaker, All new breaker should be in placed/connected in Panel before inspection, and should be turned off, right ?

Thanks in Advance !!

For a rough inspection the inspector needs all the physical wiring and clamps to be in place.
Since your switches are on an existing circuit and live they need to be in the boxes they can be pulled and angled to put the Sheetrock up later.
Make sure you have 6+ inches wire in the boxes,
Make sure at least 1/4” of the nmb or Romex outer sheath is inside the box.
Make sure you staple the wiring 8-12” from the box (8” if no clamps).
Make sure any cable that is through a hole is 1-1/4” back from the stud face
If stapling make sure cable is stapled 1-1/4” back from face(s) of studs.
These are the things my local inspectors check on a rough inspection.
Depending on your version of code (you did not provide location) you may need a neutral in the switch boxes.


Will powder coating be durable enough for a closet pole? I'm making a steel pipe closet rod and was wondering if a powder coat finish would stand up to sliding metal hangers? Thanks!

The best coating you could use is chrome plating. This is an industrial process you have done at a plating shop, but that would be silly for a bit of pipe since you can by chrome plated pipe off the shelf.

Powdercoating is not nearly as strong.

The problem with powdercoating is it's very hard to do yourself with a piece that large.  You need an extraordinarily large oven.  Sourcing small quantities of powdercoat is also a problem, this typically boils down to buying the dreck at Harbor Freight, which, I am glad they are making the tech available, but not gonna give you the durability you want.  So if you're farming out the powdercoat job anyway... Talk to the plater.


attach crossbar for ceiling suspended shelves using strong Simpson ties While constructing a ceiling suspended shelves in garage I was facing problems with attaching crossbar to ceiling joist I just couldn't get lag through 2x4 into middle of joist it was always off and I wasn't sure of how well is the connection.

So I looked into this strong tie which kind of seemed like good solution to my problem and also since it connects 2x4 on edge it will give more surface area to connect vertical members.
My question are

Will it provide strong connection with crossbar and joist for shelves to hold say 300-400 pounds?
Does it matters where the vertical members are attached on crossbar or do they must be on where crossbar is fastened to the joist?
Should I use nails or screws to mount the brackets?

If it helps I have  room with full bath over the garage
Hopefully this rough sketch can give some idea how I am thinking to attach crossbar to joist using strong ties

That's going to depend on the fastener you use. For a vertically-suspended mount like this it's critical that you use a screw with enough thread area, or that you use through-bolts. I'd use 3/8" lag screws of 2-1/2" length or 5/16" machine bolts running all the way through the joist and nutted on top. Dividing your 400 lb. load in half gives us 200 lbs. per bracket, and 100 lbs. per screw. That's likely to hold well. Test safely first. Watch for deflection of the crossbar and deformation of the brackets.
A 2x4 on edge will carry a substantial load, but I wouldn't hang that much weight further than about 16" from the brackets. If you see a lot of flex, move closer.
See #1. Nails are almost never a good choice for load-bearing applications, and certainly not for direct suspension. You must use a threaded fastener of adequate diameter or a through-bolt with a suitable washer and nut.

I would consider using standard joist hangers and placing your crossbars between the joists, or simply lay your crossbar on top of the joists, if that suits your needs. Either is a much stronger method than vertical fasteners.


Can I install Slate Ledger stone panels over drywall? I am about to install my slate ledger stone on an interior wall.  I am not sure if I really need the backer board since its a dry area.  (bar area wall- about 33 sft)  The stone ledger panels I am using are about 5.5 lbs each.  Will I have any issues with this weight?  I plan on using a polymer based thinset.. strongest I can find.  Any thoughts?

I would be concerned about putting that much over all weight on drywall. Even though it may be supported by the floor. The facing on drywall is only paper. When the thinset is applied, the paper will get wet, which it will, even with coats of paint over it. Even if the paper stayed bonded to the gypsum core, that is all it is bonded to. Gypsum has no real strength, not for that kind of shear forces. And on top of that, it may have a chance if the drywall is glued to the studs, but if it isn't, the few screws or nails is all that is keeping all that weight from buckling the drywall and falling.

In my humble opinion, use 1/2" cement board.


How can I insulate the plywood before replacing the vinyl flooring? I removed the vinyl in my kitchen, but the plywood is cold. how can I insulate the floor before replacing the vinyl flooring?

You would insulate UNDER the floor, not between the floor plywood and vinyl. To properly insulate your kitchen: normal insulation material (fully enclosed is preferred) is applied between the Floor Joists. To access this area you need to get into the "crawl space" under the floor you want to insulate. NOTE: All floors (for main floor level rooms of a house) should be accessible via the crawl space, and all rooms should be insulated (for best heat retention). Special hangers are made for installing under-floor insulation, or: 1. chicken wire 2. strips of wood can be cheaper method of "hanging" the insulation between the floor joists. NOTE: Insulating water/sewer/electrical wiring under floor(s) can lead to problems locating them later. Plan ahead... for future access to these.


Looking for a replacement spline for my cabinets We are having our kitchen cabinets painted white and need to replace the spline that holds in the glass on 4 of the cabinet doors. Unfortunately we don't have a physical sample anymore but I have these pictures.
Any idea on where we can buy these? There are a lot of options and most of them say they are for aluminum windows, but this goes into a groove in a wooden cabinet door.

There are dozens and dozens (hundreds? thousands?) of types and shapes of "spline" material.
I recommend that you do NOT go on a "goose chase" for an exact duplicate of what was installed previously. Instead, I recommend that you take a door and glass pane with you to a local window/door/glass shop and find any alternative that will adequately secure the glass. There are even newer foam strip materials that conform to a variety of channel sizes and shapes. You could even consider "non-spline" alternatives like nailed wood strips or plastic clips.

it does not matter what the labeled use of the spline is, as long as it securely holds the pane
it does not matter what the material is, as long as it securely holds the pane


Is this an acceptable way to support an undermount sink? I had quartz countertops installed in my new kitchen yesterday along with a Blanco silgranit undermount sink.  Aside from some minor issues, everything had seemed to go pretty smoothly.  When I went to start getting the sink ready for the plumbing install, I noticed that there were some rather unattractive pieces of scrap wood that had been hastily screwed into the sides of the cabinet walls.  Looking closer, it looks like this is part of what is supporting the sink from below.  Is this considered an acceptable practice or should I have them come back and fix it?  It's pretty obvious even when quickly looking underneath the sink.  I can  also confirm that metal brackets were used to support the rear of the sink and were bolted to the quartz directly.

I have to say that those scrap pieces of wood look like rather shabby workmanship to me. I would definitely have the installers come back out and clean up that mess.

If you have any chance to hold up any due payments you should do so until this is corrected.

I cannot say whether this is an overall acceptable way to support the sink but if it is expected that some support piece is to be attached to the cabinet there are surely neater ways to achieve this than a couple of splitting 1x2's stuck in there with drywall screws.


Help identifying type of texture on walls Probably a dumb question, but I'm having trouble determining if these walls are orange peel or knockdown textures. The first two photos below are in the same room, but at the minimum seem like completely different consistencies for the texture. The last photo is a different room in the house.

For the second photo, it looks like orange peel to me, while the first and last I can go either way. Anyone with more experience care to educate me? Thanks!

Top two are orange peel, bottom is knockdown. You can tell that it's knockdown by the presence of the large flat areas (where it was "knocked down" with a trowel).


What paint to use to fill engraved letters on aluminium plate? Basically I want to engrave letters and some symbols on aluminium box and fill them in using a paint, What paint should I use?

As far as I know aluminium usually gets painted by anodazing process. But still, I believe there must be a way to paint engraved stuff.

This is the box I want to engrave stuff on:

Example of the work:

For best results you need a etching type paint for aluminum or a Zink oxide primer then any paint. Aluminum oxidizes with air so it needs a primer or a paint designed for aluminum that actually etches so it bonds with the metal. Annodizing is used to protect the surface it is a plating type of solution in a bath so it is a bit different (and the surface is usually harder than aluminum.


two 15 amp outlets to pigtail 30 amp? I just bought a killer electric chainsaw.  Very powerful, fast and draws a FULL 15 amps.  I keep tripping the 15 amp breaker at the box in the basement.  It's a LONG run of extension cord (50' 10 guage) but its also some 80 feet to the panel so the wire is probably, what 14 gauge to the panel in my walls?  Maybe that's whats tripping the breaker.  I'm cutting BIG ROUNDS so the saw is working hard for like 2-3 full minutes and that's when the circuit breaker says, "too much".  I have to take frequent breaks every 30 seconds to let the breaker cool before I can resume work.

The outlet at the side of the house has 2 15 amp circuits, one to each plug, like a kitchen in newer home construction.  The outlet is GFI protected.  Can I pigtail 2 male plugs and wire a single female to the males? That would give me 30 amps?  I won't overload the extension cord.  It's really heavy duty and I won't overload the wiring in the house, 2 15 amp circuits.

My home is finished and basement done, I can't run a new wire to the back yard. Please help.

No, you absolutely cannot do that.

For starters, they will be on different legs of your hydro connection. You will create a short circuit.  There is 240v between the hot wires of those plugs. Even if they were on the same leg, it's still not allowed or advisable, because there is no way to make sure they share the load evenly.  Either way, you'll end up damaging your circuit breakers by continually tripping them, or start a fire.

What you need is to run a new 15 or 20 amp circuit with appropriate gauge wire (which might be thicker depending on length of the run) outside.  Since you know you'll be using long extension cords with it, I'd add the length of my longest extension cord when calculating the length of the run, and see if that makes you need to upsize the wire further.


GFI kitchen receptacle blew up I was running my vacuum cleaner and suddenly the kitchen GFI receptacle it was plugged into popped with some black smoke, a burning electrical smell and blackened the receptacle itself.

Did my vacuum cleaner die? Is it safe to try a different receptacle? Should I call the electrician who installed this receptacle in the spring?

The load of a vacuum combined with the refrigerator was probably more than the wiring could handle. I state this because most vacuums are at the max of 15 amp circuits and now the refer kicks in another motor load with high in rush current. Depending on the wiring method it could be just loose connections that sparked but the gfci could in fact let the magic smoke out and this is an easy fix, turn the breaker off, buy a new gfci outlet, pull old outlet and install new oulet making sure to have the wires for line and load in the correct positions. Turn the breaker back on. Make sure the fridge is working , and use another outlet in the future.


What should I do about small cracks when painting a homes exterior? So I'm painting my homes exterior. I was wondering if anything should be done about these tiny cracks in the paint. They aren't peeling off, and its very tough to scrape, since you have to take off some of the wood underneath.

The most common cause of cracked paint is moisture. If removing the paint takes wood with it, that suggests water may have gotten into the siding through the cracks and weakened the wood.

Lightly tap the siding with a hammer where the cracks appear. It should not leave a noticeable impression; if it does the clapboard is rotting and should be replaced. You can check how much moisture is in the siding by blowing a hair dryer on it for a minute or two at close range. If there is excess moisture in the wood, the heated spot will get darker as water is pulled out, then lighter again as it dries from the surface. As long as the wood isn't softened though, a little moisture is okay.

In any case, you should definitely sand those cracks before painting over them. Use 400-600 grit sandpaper to smooth it out but don't sand all the way through the paint. Also, use primer before your color coat if switching from oil to latex or vice-versa. If you don't know which the old paint is, it's always best to prime anyway.

Source: friend who is a painting contractor.


Miscalculated Subway tile spacing What should I do? I miscalculated the spacing of subway tiles (literally misstyped a number in my calculator) I’m installing for my backsplash and ended up with a sliver left over at the top of my wall and under my cabinets.
What should I do? I’m thinking of leaving the under cabinet ones alone since I’m going to be installing deco strips which will hide it. But right near the ceiling there’s a 5/8” gap which means I’d have to cut 1/2” slivers to fill it in. I’m worried that will look bad.
Any thoughts from folks? Should I do it or is there an alternative solution?

Pity the tiles are laid: I'd have run full tiles down from the ceiling, and got rid of the cuts you put to line up with the top of the window architrave. You could have packed out the top of the architrave almost invisibly with timber and paint.
As it is, fit a small timber trim/coving, call it what you will and paint it as if it's part of the ceiling. Only you will notice it.


How to rehang vertical blinds on a damaged bay ceiling? My vertical blind has lost two of its four brackets. It was fixed to the ceiling of my bay window and the plugs and screws have pulled away. Is it possible to fill and replug in the same place and what products would you say would help make a successful repair.

The brackets have pulled out because they were not properly attached to a structural member. The best fix in this situation would be to take the blinds down, and reinstall them properly by attaching them to studs/joists.

While most blinds come with those small "anchors", these are almost never sufficient to support the blinds.  The best way to install any type of blinds is to locate structural members inside the wall/ceiling, and use longer screws (usually not included) to attach the brackets to these members.

If it's just not possible to attach the brackets to structure, the next best option is to use toggle bolts. Toggle bolts will give you greater support, and will be less likely to pull out.  These driller toggles from COBRA are a great combination of screw-in drywall anchors and toggle bolts.  They provide a good hold, while still being very simple to install.

To rehang the blinds you should be able to use the same holes, if you're using a toggle bolt that is about the same size as the existing holes.  If you are moving the brackets to a new location (to attach to a framing member), you can patch the existing holes with joint compound.