RCD spur to protect a wall light fitting I have a wall light which is connected to a 13amp domestic ring main using a 5amp fused spur.
Is it possible to replace this conventional fused spur with a 5amp RCD spur for added protection should such a thing exist - I’ve only come across 13amp RCD Spurs.
If not, which is preferable to protect a light fitting in this situation - a conventional 5amp cartridge type fuse or a 13amp RCD spur.

I'd use a 13A max RCD spur fitted with a 5A fuse
What I'd do in this situation, since FCUs/"fused spurs" use BS1362 fuses based on my limited research, is take a standard 13A RCD spur and downfuse it to 5A by replacing the stock 13A BS1362 fuse with a 5A BS1362 fuse instead.


how to find out my primer color I have some scratches on the drywall which was primer'ed dry wall from moving furniture. I'd like to just apply a coat of primer on the spots where the scratches are. I don't plan on painting just yet.

I bought white drywall primer, however, it doesn't exactly match the color of the primer already applied on the wall. The primer I bought is too white compared to the old one.

Is there a way to get a drywall primer with exactly the same color as the one on my current dry wall? I don't have any record of the "color code" that's already been applied...?

Usually primer is white. In some cases the primer might be tinted. This is usually done when changing drastically from light to dark or vise versa but the color of the primer is not intended to be the final color, this is what the paint is for. When it is tinted, it would be tinted to closely match the final color.

If you want to color match, take a chip of paint to your local paint store and depending on the age, they can usually match it pretty well. I'd advise just using white primer and then getting the final paint color matched properly.


How to level bathroom plywood subfloor before tiling? In a bathroom remodeling project, I noticed the newly installed plywood sub-floor is flat but not level, which may cause issues when installing the shower and the sink cabinet (water evacuation and shower door and cabinet not properly aligned with the walls).

Now, Internet tells me I should level my floor with self-leveling compound (after having caulked plywood joints and applied a coat of primer). Also, Internet tells me that putting backer-board over that (when settled) will cause it to break when I'll add the screws to fix it to the sub-floor. And Internet also tells me I could self-level the sub-floor and NOT use backer-board.

I'm confused.

What is the proper way to level my sub-floor before installing my tiles?

You could do either:

level the floor or
level the individual parts (shower enclosure, vanity, toilet)

Which you choose will depend on the degree of out-of-level

Self Leveler:
self leveler does not need to stay intact after the backer board install.  It can fracture and still completely support the backer board.. its got nowhere to go and it doesn't migrate or degrade.

My personal preference is to use self leveler and then use a crack isolation membrane.
(Ditra is my preference, comes in 1/8, 1/4 and heating wire support styles)


Why isn't my halogen floor lamp working with new bulb and new dimmer switch? I replaced the bulb and the dimmer switch. There is 120V between the connections when switched on. It varies between 115V on low and 122V on high. The bulb has continuity. I also measured the voltage across the bulb when in place and switched on and it was about 0.4V. I also rocked the bulb back and forth to make a better connection. This was the dimmer switch I installed: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAH8

@jms was right. The ribbed wire was mixed with the smooth wire at the bulb end. I switched them but it still didn't work. The voltage when on was about 0.7V. I tested with a straight connection like @DigitalNinja said and it did light up! So the brand new switch is bad!


Utility trenches to Accessory Dwelling I live in Georgia and am putting a garage apartment behind my house.  It is about 30 - 40 feet from the main house.  I would like to know how many different trenches I will have to dig, how deep, and what utilities can share trenches.  If I go with natural gas heat, I will need a gas line (3/4" plastic?), 3" PVC sewer, probably 4 AWG wire for electric (in 1" PVC conduit?), water supply (3/4" PEX?), low voltage (1" PVC for cat 6, cable, etc.?).  There is a possibility I can run separate electric service from another pole to the garage if the electric trench will have to be too deep or not able to share a trench with another utility.
Thanks.

I'd say that there are too many unknowns in regards to what your local jurisdiction mandates for burial and separation of utilities for anyone to answer with any certainty in your situation.  What might be legal in one town may be illegal in the next town over, so the only sure way of knowing how you can legally and safely bury your utilities is to talk to your local permitting authority.  I'm sure they have plenty of documentation for you to look through which should answer all of your questions.

If you just choose to blindly proceed without following guidelines and proper permits and inspections, you will most certainly not get a certificate of occupancy for your garage apartment, and likely you'll need to dig it up and do it again.  If you're in the rare situation where there are no permitting authorities, I still suggest following guidelines of a nearby authority for utility burial, just for safety's sake.

If nothing else, for any non-metal lines you run in trenches not in common with a metal line, bury with it a marking wire so that utility locators can easily find your buried utility lines in the future.

Scott


How much heat is generated by a ceiling fan's remote control receiver? How much heat is generated by a ceiling fan's remote control receiver? My last receiver was damaged by water exposure from the floor above (problem addressed). Still, I felt it a good idea to protect the next one from such damage. I've almost totally enclosed the receiver and it's connected wires in the bubble wrap bag it came in. I didn't seal it rightly (leaving a couple of small gaps at the bottom, but protecting the unit from water falling into it from above). The bag is very loose fitting around the unit.
I'm worried that I may be causing heat retention because of limited ventilation. I don't want to shorten the life of the receiver or possibly cause a fire risk.  I notice vents in the unit and what may be a heat sync metal plate inside. This is basically a remote switch and electrical passthrough. Switches shouldn't get hot in most cases I'm aware of. I'm just looking for confirmation of this being okay, or notice that I need to remove my water barrier.
Thank you

How much heat is generated by a ceiling fan's remote control receiver?

It depends on what your remote does. Some remotes have a very low power dissipation but others with both speed and light dimming can get quite hot.
I would never use bubble wrap on an electronic circuit.
I might make a plastic umbrella above it. If water gets in the fan or lighting circuits this can be what caused the damage not only to the module itself.
I would remove the bubble wrap.


What to do if drywall anchor isn't flush with the wall I'm trying to install a curtain rod.  The kit came with drywall anchors and screws.  The anchors are 1 inch long.  However, the drywall is maybe 1/2 inch thick.  Behind the drywall it looks like a wood stud (99% sure it's the stud) and not empty space.

I didn't know and tried hammering the anchor in and it's not flush with the wall.  I can't seem to drill deeper so I don't know what to do.  Do I apply more pressure to push the bit thru the stud so the anchor will go all the way or there's another solution?

When ever you are doing Window Treatments such as Curtain rods - the first thing to do is use a SMALL diameter 1/8 inch drill bit and drill a pilot hole for your mounting holes - this way you can know if you hit a stud or only have empty space - typically you can hit a stud because the window framing.

You will note the pine wood on the drill bit also the force required to drill will tell you if you have only dry wall or a stud.

If you hit a stud SKIP the Anchors the wood stud will secure the screws just fine.

If you do not hit a stud - use a slightly larger bit to see if you are close to a stud - ie catch the edge of it (your anchor might be too wide and you will need to re-position your hole).

Now onto the fact that your screws are short - a hardware store has longer screws , splurge the 50 cents for a pack of longer screws.

Dry wall patch is sold in stores but for this you can easily get away with pushing in some joint compound (comes in a quick tube as well) - letting it set and then drilling your hole into the stud - use a longer screw 1-1/2 inches should be fine.


Installing a new dishwasher: integrated or freestanding? In my kitchen, there is a spare cupboard under the counter, where I would like to install a dishwasher. I have spoken to a tradesman who has said this will be possible and will do the fitting for me. He has said that I just need to go ahead and buy the dishwasher, and he will do the rest.

However, after browsing dishwashers on various websites, it seems that there are two main categories: integrated dishwashers, and freestanding dishwashers. Which of these should I buy?

My first instinct was that it should be a freestanding dishwasher because this may may make installation easier, since this is something of an unusual case. However, technically, the dishwasher will be integrated into my existing kitchen units, so now I am thinking that an integrated dishwasher makes more sense. But what does an integrated dishwasher actually mean? Does it just mean that you couldn't have it standing on its own, and it must be fixed inside some other frame (e.g. my cupboard)? But would something like this easily fix within my cupboard?

Below are two photos of the spare cupboard where the dishwasher will go. There is some shelving inside, which the tradesman said he will remove before installing the dishwasher. He also said that the current door on the cupboard will be retained as the door on the new dishwasher (after removing the hinges). Other issues, such as power and water supply, are fine.

Any help? Thanks!

A integrated appliance is one intended to be installed in, and mostly concealed by, your normal cabinetry. It will therefore lack the finished decorative sides, front and top of a free-standing appliance.

They are usually floor standing - so the carpenter would have to remove the bottom of your cupboard. She would also have to remove and replace the kick panel at the bottom - usually these are converted from fixed (screws) to removable (spring clip) to facilitate maintenance.

Often, the appliance controls protrude at the top of the door, so the existing cupboard door would have to be cut down to fit the remaining space and attached to the appliance door. The appliance door of an integrated appliance is designed to have a wooden "door" attached that matches the decor of your adjacent kitchen cupboards


What is causing the last two heads in a sprinkler/irrigation system to have no water pressure? Zone 2 of my irrigation system has 6 pop-up sprinkler heads but the last two do not pop up, nor is there any water coming from them at all. They are completely dry, even in the flex lines they are attached to. My assumption is that there is a break in the main PVC line after the last working head. So, I have been digging up this particular line to find the break, but with no luck. It's about 30 feet long and I'm about halfway with digging this line up. I was certain the roots from a nearby Queen Palm would have been the culprit but after clearing that area with no breaks I'm wondering if something else could be the problem, especially since I am seeing no water coming out of the ground after letting the zone run for a while. So, could this be a problem with the valve or is it definitely a break that I've yet to find? Should I keep on digging until I find it? This irrigation system was not being used for at least 3 years and only recently has been turned on for the first time, so I was expecting some work to be done.

To answer my own question after solving the issue...

If the problem is only at the last two heads and the first ones are fine, then it is definitely a problem occurring after the first heads and unlikely to be valve-related (though not impossible). A broken line is most likely in this case, since your last two heads are dry in the risers and flex lines (it's not the heads merely being clogged). Broken pipes can usually be revealed by looking for muddy soil after running the zone for several minutes, especially if it's a break so bad it is completely stopping your last two heads from receiving any water pressure at all. If the soil has become impacted inside the broken pipe it may be difficult for the water to escape and reveal the break.

One common method to this problem is to increase the water pressure to the break and force the water out. It will not be so much pressure that damage can be done to the PVC joints and heads (as it will only be for a few minutes nor will the PSI be any higher than the output of your main water line or jet pump). This increase in pressure can be done by capping off all the sprinkler heads in the problematic zone. This will put more force on the possible break and on the soil that may be clogged in the pipe. After several minutes the leak may reveal itself. I'm sure there are several ways to cap off sprinkler heads, but the most common and simplest method is to buy PVC threaded caps (3/4" or 1/2" depending on your risers) that screw right on to the risers.


How do I fill in the holes in wooden window frames? I drilled a few holes to window frames in my rented house hoping to setup a steel mosquito mesh with screws rather than small nails to be removed easily in the future.

I hurriedly used a 3 mm drill bit. The holes are easily visible and I want to fill them now. They are just 6 holes not deeper than 1 centimeter.

More details:

Number of windows: 2
Number of holes: 6 per window frame
Diameter of the holes: 3mm
Depth: 1cm to 2 cm

Could anybody tell me the best way to fill them? I am thinking of applying putty and paint with the same colors but I don't know if that covers the holes completely.

If the window frames are made of wood, I would use wood filler to fill the holes.

You won't be able to conceal the holes from a forensic crime-scene examiner but that is not your goal. You need to restore the property to a state that will satisfy a reasonable owner that you have looked after it and kept it in good repair so that it can be rented out once you have terminated your lease.

It is always wise, before drilling holes in someone else's property, to ask the owner.

If in doubt, ask the owner what she would like you to do.


Backyard shed with keyed hasp same as house key Anyone know if there's a solution for locking a backyard shed, that would let me rekey it to be the same as a normal house key.

The shed is a Tuff Shed with double wood doors like this:

Currently the shed is secured with a basic swivel hasp like this, and padlock.

I'm looking to minimize the number of keys I have and avoid having to fumble with a padlock (especially at night).

I've found keyed hasps like this one:
- Prime Line Keyed Hasp

But it seems like the keys they use are tiny ones like on lockboxes, so I probably can't rekey it to my standard house key.

I'm also up for any other keyed/securing options I was thinking about maybe a keypad secured door lock (but that would probably require replacing the basic swinging wooden doors).

I've also seen T-Handle shed locks but again the keys seem like they're smaller than standard house keys (not sure if I could rekey it)

http://www.amazon.com/Shed-T-Handle-Lock-Set-Chrome/dp/B004WGBQBK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460243639&sr=8-1&keywords=Shed+Windows+and+More

A locksmith can order (if necessary) and set up padlocks or locking hasps that respond to your house key, unless the house lock is using a particularly uncommon key blank. They may be a bit larger than the ones designed to be sold in bulk, and they will probably be a bit more expensive, but the price shouldn't be unreasonable.


How to break a sheet of glass quietly? I have a sheet of glass over the kitchen door (for natural light to hit the entry hallway) VICIOUSLY GLUED to the fame. I'm removing the entire frame to replace the old wood door with a glass door and also want to get rid of the glass above.

I was pondering on how to break it and I didn't want it to shatter all over the place.

I decided to cover it in duct-tape so it holds together even when broken (makes sense in my head, we'll see how it turns out).
I put a piece of cardboard on each side and nailed it to the frame so it won't have anywhere to go after it breaks.
On the side I'll break it from, I left some holes in the cardboard to hit the glass and not the cardboard covering it.
I'll also put a pillow on it when I break it to muffle it even more.

But I hit it twice for testing and it's very strong... and loud! So to avoid panicking my neighbors (I'm very considerate :))... what's the easiest and less noisy way to make a sheet of glass crack and remove it?

Size is 75cm by 45cm. Thickness is about 5mm. And covered in duct-tape.

This is what I'm thinking of?

Small impact area, large impact area?
Hit at center or sides?
Hammer a sharp object into it or just hammer directly?
Drill some holes into it first to weaken it?
Should I saw the entire part out with the glass in it (as I don't care about the frame anyways, I'll obliterate it) --- but this is not so easily achievable?

Thanks.

PS: I write code. DIY wannabe. And have no idea how to tag this...

Standard EMT tool for tempered glass car windows (after taping - packing tape preferred over duct tape) is an automatic center punch. A hammer and nail will work the same, it's mostly being a one-handed tool that's easy to carry that makes the ACP the preferred tool among EMTs.

If you're "smashing the whatever" out of it, you're doing it wrong. It just takes subtle application of force to a fine point. If you get lots of long shards, it wasn't tempered, and you'd need to be careful handling the shards (movie reference and graphic explanation of the desirability of tempered glass - the non-tempered glass in "Christine")


Roofing nails protruding in attic dripping with condensation After a re-roofing job there are hundreds of nail points sticking out in the attic. I use some of the attic space for storage so when standing up in there I get poked in the head, but also in freezing weather, these nails drip from condensation and get all my stuff wet. Can I cut off the nails and then put a dollop of silicone sealant on the little bit still sticking inside to insulate the nail from the warmer moister air in the attic so it won't drip? Or would that cause the moisture to soak up into the sheathing and lead to rot?

Roofing ails are supposed to protrude, at least a bit. That's how they achieve much of their pullout resistance. It's a bit odd that they didn't before.

Feel free to stick whatever you like on them to protect your head. If they're dripping that much, though, you're sorely lacking in attic ventilation. Protecting the nails doesn't do anything for the wood throughout the attic.


Why has one circuit lost power? About 2 days ago we noticed that a 20 amp (single pole) circuit breaker was tripped. Ok not a big deal, it's doing it's job. Then I noticed that the breaker was tripping even with a single light on. Then it finally came to an end, I was unable to get the breaker to stay in the "on" position at all it would immediately trip.
At this point I thought ok the breaker was pretty old, had never tripped itself before now it's constantly being tripped. I do have some experience with home electrical systems. I have installed several breakers in existing boxes before when I had a job working HVAC. Anyway I thought that there was a possibility that the breaker had went bad, so off I go to get a replacement.
Now here's where I am getting into my real problems--the wire that was and still needs to be connected to the new breaker to finish the circuit and say yay it's been fixed now and possibly is the main cause of all of the issues has no power!! It is essentially a dead line. I found this out when everything was connected back together and honestly better than it was flip the breaker on and immediate trip!!!
How do I find where the dead wire goes and what are possibilities of why it has zero power coming through it.

Simply put, you have a true short in the cabling someplace. To solve your problem:  First of all be sure you are working with the affected outlets and fixtures and don't accidentally pull something out that is still powered up.  Then you should pull out all the affected outlets and fixtures and look for any shorts. If none found, take pictures of each one BEFORE. Then disconnect everything including the connection to the breaker.  Be sure that you aren't testing anything live by testing for voltage first.  Then start testing with a DMM on the ohm setting.  You should have near infinite resistance across the white and black in every case. If you find a short (very little resistance), you should be able to find the "other end" of the cable because there should be another pair with low resistance.   Then, hooray, you found the cable with the short. What you do from there depends completely on where that cable runs, hopefully not to difficult a replacement.   It would be good though, to identify the cause of the short. It's very unusual for the cable itself to be compromised.
But rodent damage can do it:  I had a similar situation in my previous house.  Some outlets and lights stopped working and another circuit started tripping breakers with nothing plugged into it. The affected outlets were on a wall shared with an attached garage. So I started pulling off sheetrock and this is what I found!


Driveway Gutter / Rain Guide? Our house was built a little over 20 years ago.  The person who paved the asphalt driveway didn't grade it right, so in addition to the slight downward slope towards the road, it has alternating slopes between the left and right sides.  The driveway immediately abuts grass at the same level -- no curbs.  When it rains hard, water sheets across the driveway, then courses along one side, killing the grass and creating lots of mud and soggy ground.  It then crosses over to the other side of the driveway and does the same thing further down, before it ends up at an extremely soggy patch at the end of the driveway.

We'd love to add curbs or something to the driveway, but we don't want to have to build the grass up on the sides.  We were wondering if there would be some way to create gutters for the driveway -- perhaps poured concrete or clay channels that would sit below driveway level on either side and carry the water down to the end of the driveway.  Is there a common way to do this?  Are there pre-made channels that we could put in?  I'd appreciate any input here.

We live in New England, so whatever is put in has to be able to deal with freezing and thawing, as well as moderate amounts of snow, ice, rain, and baking sunshine at different parts of the year.  Plowing isn't an issue as we always shovel/snowblow the driveway.

I'll let others chime in with gutter ideas.  Just keep in mind that you'll need to make sure they can handle the expansion from ice without cracking.  But I did want to mention a few alternative solutions you may want to consider.

If you want to keep the lawn, you may consider at a french drain, possibly with some ground level openings to handle severe weather (install these in a way that you can close them in the winter).

If you want to change the look, consider some raised beds on either side of the driveway (which has an added benefit of keeping cars off of the lawn).


Countertop receptacle spacing issue I am rewiring my kitchen and I have installed 28 inch wide windows. NEC states that there should be no space along the countertop that is more than 24 inches from the nearest outlet. With the window trim installed, I don't believe that there will be enough space between the countertop and the window (unless I put the box in sideways, but then this would complicate the back-splash) to install a receptacle. Would it be permissible to have the spacing in this particular location to be more than 24 inches (approximately 30-32 inches), or must I do something about this?

The rule says that there must be an outlet within 24 inches horizontally from any location along the countertop, so the outlets can be up to 48 inches apart!  Think of it as if you have a blender with a 2 ft long cord.  Ignoring the height of the outlet, you should be able to plug the blender in anywhere you place it along the counter wall.


Generic glue-up shower wall panels? I installed a 32x32-feet inch shower pan. The shower has walls on three sides. I was planning to install glue-up plastic panels for the shower walls, but all the ones I can find at the big box stores are either shockingly expensive or won't fit.

So, I'm wondering if there's a generic type of material I could cut to size and install using construction adhesive. For instance, could I just buy 4x8-foot PVC sheets?

I know I could also do wall tile on cement board, but this is a rental property and I don't want to spend a lot of time and money.

After having a number of shower walls deteriorate in just a few years, I paneled a stall shower with an underlayment of cement board and covered it with fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) wall board and corner molding (links are for reference purpose only).

The project cost less than US$100 and has held up for ~15 years. In fact, the shower base needs cosmetic touch-up, but the walls are fine, and water infiltration has been eliminated.


Forced-air heater for old floor registers I have an older home which used to be centrally heated by a furnace in the crawlspace, but has since been retrofitted with forced-air wall heaters:  Some of the wall heaters are in inconvenient locations (like under windows where I'd like to add drapery), so I'm looking at options to replace them. I could replace the furnace, but the retrofit was probably done a decade or two ago and I don't know the condition of the ducts. There are still floor registers remaining from the central heating, and these seem like ideal locations for heating since the vents and ducts are already there.

Are there any forced-air heaters available which can be installed in unused floor registers? Something like the toe-kick heaters I've seen for installation under kitchen and bathroom cabinets.

Toe kick heaters such as the slant fin sidekick are fan assist hydronic heaters as far as I know. Any heaters that fit in the register space that I've seen were electric, and that is expense to run and won't deliver much heat. They do exist so depending on your climate they may work for you. Dimplex makes one but I think it requires some installation. I've seen some that simply plug in. I just don't know who makes them.


How would you grade this patio? This is about a cement pavers patio.
On the figure below the yellow arrows show how the lot is graded

For grading the patio I seem to have two options:
-along the blue lines
-along the red line

Which gading direction is recommended?
Bigger picture here: http://i.imgur.com/osVM8Ti.png

Blue, or blueish-purple (ie, at a slight angle so it's away from both the house and garage, but closer to blue.) You want to get the water away from the building, not funnel it alongside the building.

Responding to comment: developing a grade is a "simple-yet-tedious" process, for the most part. My preferred method is to set some stakes 3-4 feet tall, mark them all with a level (laser these days, dumpy or transit or water or... in the past), and then mark a line on each, depending where it is, at some fixed distance above the desired grade - say 30" above. Then I run strings, tightly, between those marks, and mark my rake and/or tamper handle at 30" - it's then a simple matter to line up the strings (to form a plane floating 30" above grade) and see if the rake or tamper is too high (mark above) too low (mark below) or right on (mark even with) when set on the surface at any given spot. For convenience the plane should not be too low (or it's a lot of bending to see if things line up) nor too high (it's difficult to get stakes well-anchored for a taught string when the string is 5 feet up the stake.)

You could set something to screed on by adapting the same method - I don't recommend screeding for a sand base - it needs to be well compacted, or it will shift, so screeding it doesn't really do anything much to develop the base you need, IME.

In either case "sloping two ways" is a simple operation of referencing an imaginary LEVEL plane & subtracting for the position in both X and Y before making the mark on the post or setting the plank, pipe, or whatever you'd be using to guide your screed on the non-level plane you are creating.

For a concrete example, suppose we slope 1/8" per foot in blue and 1/32" per foot on red. The high corner is where the garage and house meet. The outside corner by the garage is dropped 1.83 inches. The house side of the end away from the garage is dropped 1.09 inches, and the outside corner at that end is dropped 1.09 + 1.83 inches. Any spot in the middle can have a precise elevation computed, and then you do your best to approximate that in practice, and don't sweat 0.05" too much. For the sake of simplicity and sanity in measuring you can set your grade stakes on an 8 foot grid, for instance, rather than "right at the edge of the patio" and you can actually set a row beyond that if it makes it easier to "see the plane" while working.


Light fixtures flicker after replacement I have replaced the two lights in my kitchen with updated fixtures.  These lights are controlled by the same switch.  The first light went in with no problems.  The second one is a little bit more complicated.  There are supposed to be the three wires distinguishable by color.  Only the green, grounding wire is obvious.  The other two are not. I think that I have them correctly connected but the lights on both fixtures flicker when I turn the switch on.  Is it possible that I have wired them incorrectly or is this a separate issue?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks

The power feed to a single phase fixture can be connected either way. The fixture doesn't care or at least I have never seen one that does.

Are these fluorescent fixtures? The flickering could mean you didn't seat the lamps well enough into their sockets. The pins should go straight in and then twist the lamp ¼ turn to seat them firmly.

They should flicker slightly when they are brand new and first turned on but the tubes will "burn-in" in just a few hours. Leave the lights on for a couple hours to allow them to burn in and they should stop flickering or strobing.

Otherwise they flicker slightly as the are turned on anyway depending on the type of starter in the fixture. This should only be a split second though and they should come up to full brightness.

Happy Friday!


Are hot water returns worth putting in? Once I saw on  an episode of This Old House that they were putting in hot water return lines: pipes that recirculate idle hot water back to the heater so you get hot water right away, instead of wasting time and water.

My wife and I are looking to getting our first home and I think this might be a beneficial investment to make at some point. I also am skeptical of the cost.

Is it worth it to install them? Or is it a matter of convenience?

After doing a bit of research on what exactly hot water return lines are I found this page which goes into a lot of detail about how they work and their benefits and drawbacks.

The big drawback I see is that you will need to make sure that all your hot water lines are well lagged to minimise the inevitable heat loss that will occur with the hot water sitting in the pipes. Otherwise you will be heating water for it to go to waste when you aren't using it.

So you will need to add up all the costs:

extra pipework
lagging to minimise heat loss
extra redecoration where you've worked on the pipes
the extra heating costs
etc.

and decide whether it's a fair price to pay for instant hot water.

Another alternative would be to change the pipework so you don't have any long runs or even install secondary heaters for parts of the house.


Process in installing a TV New first time buyer here! Finally got the keys to the new house! Exciting times! Will be going into it pretty soon!
I bought a Samsung Frame TV 55” for it. I do plan on hanging the tv on the wall. I haven’t done much DIY project and was watching this YouTube video:
https://youtu.be/bdQPmYCD-vk
I’ve got a few questions:
1 - I was looking at few tv mounting advice and I saw someone say you shouldn’t hang a TV solely on drywall? It should also be on a stud. Is this correct?
2 - in the vid did he drill everything on a stud? I watched it several times but don’t seem to catch whether or not he drilled through the stud for the toggle bolts.
3 - which size toggle bolts should I get? He drilled the hole with a .5” bit. Am I right in assuming I can use any bolts?
4 - other than using a stud finder, how do I make sure I don’t drill through a pip or something? And how far do I drill through a stud? (This probably sounds pretty stupid but I just wanna make sure)

The bracket should be screwed into at least one stud and preferably two. Drywall just doesn't provide the support for a large TV.
In the video, the center holes were screwed into the stud and the two end toggle bolts went in the drywall.
The bolt sizes will depend on the bracket you buy. In many instances, the bolts and screws will be provided. If they are not, the instructions will specify what you need.
There isn't really a good way to check behind  walls without a stud finder. You can push a long finishing nail into the drywall a number of times to determine the stud locations and move the nail around in the holes to "see" if you feel any wires or pipes. Since you're a homeowner, you'll be doing a lot of picture hanging,etc. so you'd be smart to get a good stud finder.


Corner Bead With Stucco Over Mesh I have a small wooden box closing the gap between the entry door and the original opening that I prepped with tar paper and mesh to apply stucco to so that it fits with the rest around.

Should I put a metal corner bead to straighten the edge (see picture) or should I go without the way it is?

You can do it either way, I would use a corner bead, but use the variety that has expanded metal lathe on the edges too. Although corner could be done "freehand", using the trowel as a guide on one side and scraping the stucco over the edge of the trowel (an 18" concrete trowel) let that set, then do the same for the other side. This is done for the first two coats then the finish coat is done on both faces.
If you use a corner bead, you can build up both sides at the time doing the work in three steps instead of five. Make sure you hold the stucco back off the corner bead the appropriate amount for each layer, until the finish layer goes flush with the corner bead
I take it is a sanded finish? You may be able to eliminate a layer, just the scratch coat, then finish coat.


Recommended order for re-shingling a roof and rebuilding a chimney I just found out that I should replace my (currently asphalt shingle) roof in the next year. I also was told by a chimney cleaner that in order to use my fireplace, I would need to have the flue re-lined and the chimney rebuilt from the roof up. So I am wondering about recommended order of doing these two projects.

Also, is there any significant cost savings if I get the chimney rebuilt near the same time as replacing the roof?

Definitely do the chimney project first. Any foot traffic on your roof reduces its life by damaging the surface. In the case of asphalt shingles, the granules are the primary weather and UV light protection. Walking on an asphalt roof always degrades the granule surface, especially at the bottom edge of each shingle. That takes years off their useful life.


Can I use existing horizontal tub drain pipe as vent and add new vertical pipe to drain? I have a bathtub that has horrible drainage and its because of an old galvanized horizontal pipe that connects to the stack.

I cannot replace this pipe with PVC with a better slope without compromising the floor joist structure in the ceiling. Home is from early 1900s.

However, I do have the ability to run a new drain all the way down to the basement and add a y connector that would keep the old galvanized pipe as mostly a vent.

I am a little concerned with the space I have in the ceiling to pull this off but I think I can do it. I am more concerned about the small 2 in drop where the pipe exits to the stack if I use it as a vent. (Please see images below)

Can someone give me an opinion of what I have proposed? Would the existing horizontal pipe work as a vent in this situation or would I be making any regressions here?

Today:

Proposed:

Photo:

Depending on your location, this may not be up to code. Under UPC, a dry vent cannot be horizontal until it is a few inches above the fixture it vents. If your drain pipe backs up over time, you'll have water enter your horizontal vent section, where it can deposit solids and cause the vent to clog. A wet vent can be horizontal because it's expected to be flushed out by other fixtures that drain through it, but there's nothing to stop a horizontal dry vent from becoming clogged over time. Your proposed setup is more likely to suffer from a clogged vent than your current setup.


concrete slab weight Can you please give me the weight of a concrete slab the measurement is 2.5 X 2.5 metres Thickness 8cm   This is for the purpose of disposing  this amount concrete to waste management (Council Tip)

Approximately 2,350 lbs or 1,065 kgs.

Source: http://www.calculator.net/concrete-calculator.html


Reducing Attic Fire Risk When I had my house built, it got cold and so we called the local power co-op energy savings expert to give us advice. One of the things he said was that we had the wrong kind of insulation in the attic, that it needed to be a higher rating. So, we hired an insulation company and they used something instead of fiberglass called "poly". They vacuumed all the treated, recycled newspaper insulation that was previously used, and brought in the poly, which they blew in. This worked well and among the other changes we did, it warmed the house up.

But then one of the attic fans broke where the fan part spun off the spindle because of a poor weld. This caused sparking as metal scraped metal and I ran into the attic to shut it off in the nick of time. We hired an electrician and he took the fan motor and blade into his shop and re-welded it back on very nicely, as well as added a bolt for extra reinforcement. This lasted us for several years until this year, when the bearing on the motor broke and it made an awful noise. The bearing was such that it would stop and start, but once it got started, it would run fine.

So, my fears are:

Is this poly stuff fireproof and the proper stuff to insulate my attic with?
What attic fan make/model would you recommend (I have two of them and they seem underpowered for my hot attic) that can withstand the extremes, last long, and reduce my fire risk?
What safety measures can I add to my attic to reduce the fire risk?

The other thing I don't understand is -- I've lived in several houses before over several decades, each with attics. I've never had to worry about attic fans at all until this house. Why is my attic an issue?

So I've learned that the poly is fire retardant, but it would be better not to expose it at all and use fireproof boards over all of it, instead.

For the fans, I found a slight water leak on one, and now see that solar attic fans are probably the better route. I will consult an electrician to install some from Lowe's.


Running building wire across 2x4s of drop ceiling Just bought a house built in 1902. I want to add a new light fixture in the dining room that requires running 12/2 cable to it since there is no existing fixture.

From putting an endoscope in the ceiling it looks like a drop ceiling was added at some point (I think?). It also looks like there is a gap between the 2x4s and the original ceiling.

(from top to bottom - original ceiling, gap, 2x4, sheetrock)

Obviously, it would be easiest to run the wire for my light fixture in the gap rather than drill holes through the 2x4s.

So, my question is - can I run the wire in this gap or do I need to drill holes through the 2x4s? Will I be violating any codes by running the wire through the gaps of the drop ceiling?

Sure you can but it might not be as easy as you think, unless you can cut a hole large enough to be able to get above the 2x4 and push it to where it needs to be. Also just be sure the old ceiling doesn't flex and pinch the romex.

Good luck


Is there a simple way to make these rough sawn, exposed joists level and flat? I am renovating the kitchen in my 100+ year old American Four Square home. I was unfortunately not able to salvage the original longleaf pine flooring, so it has all been pulled up. I'm left with original rough sawn 2x8 joists (spanning about 13'). The problem I am facing is that none of the joists are in the same plane, even at the ends where they are sitting on the foundation (one end) and a support wall (other end).

Luckily, there is a cinder block wall near the middle of the span running perpendicular to the joists. The most obvious thing to do is shim under that to get the middle sag out of each joist. But since none of the joists are in the  same plane at the ends, this job isn't as simple as that. I'm not quite sure how to tackle this problem. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Here are some pics of the room. Notice that there is one point in the foundation wall where the joists are resting on a wood header and they notched the end of a few joists halfway up. If you have any idea how to address that, that would be great, too.

EDIT - Finished Job

Thanks for all the advise. I decided to go with the shimming approach, which was a bit tricky because the joist are quite wavy (up and down). I created custom shims by scribing a pattern on to a level 2x4 and cutting on the scribe line with a jig saw.

If I would have had fewer mechanicals in the joist bay, sistering would have probably been faster and easier. Ripping 14' with a jig saw is time consuming and I still had to use additional shims when my scribe wasn't accurate enough. I used Advantech subfloor adhesive to set the shims in place, then used a variety of screws to secure each shim. In some places I needed to use 3" screws because my shim was about 1.5" tall!

If you haven't used Advantech subfloor or adhesive before, I highly recommend it.

Sistering probably would have been necessary if I wasn't lucky enough to have a block wall mid way under the joists to act as a girder. The original joists would have needed the extra strength from a glued and screwed sister without the block wall.

Here is what it looks like with the shims installed:

The Code requires the floor joists to support 40 psf Live Load (people, furniture, etc.) plus Dead Load (permanent flooring, insulation, etc.).

It appears your joists are about 24” on center (based on the size of the bricks).  Therefore, your joists (rough sized) will support about 120 plf at 13’ span depending on the species and grade.

If the joists are at 24” on center, then your floor will support about 60 psf (Live Load and Dead Load).  Your dead load should be between 10 psf and 15 psf. So, your joists are adequate.

However, in kitchens we always add a joist (or 2) under the refrigerator.

Notching the bearing end “about half way up” is serious. This limits the support strength in “shear” but not “bending”. (Notches in the middle third of the span affects bending more than shear.)

With that big of notches, I’d guess (without actually doing the calculations) you’ll loose about 20% of the total strength of the beam.

Therefore, you can shim each joist to get the joists level, but I’d keep the added weight (shims) to a minimum and I would not add a ceiling finish under the joists. I’ve seen leveling done with a transit and level, but it’s time consuming. Start at the highest point in the room and work out in all directions.


Is straight lumber a thing of the past? I am working on a bathroom project, which is a brand new room. I've gone out to purchase 2x3" lumber for this project (I don't prefer metal studs). It seems like everywhere I go to buy lumber, almost all of it is bowed, bent, or twisted. Even worse, especially at my local Home Depot, the lumber is wet and even moldy sometimes.
As I've gutted some of the parts of my house, I've found nothing but really nice, straight, clean 2x3"s. Luckily I kept them and was able to reuse them in various places. Here is a picture of a small piece:

As you can see, the edges are nice and crisp, and I can assure you that the longer stud that this piece came from is straight. It seems like maybe these were milled better than nowadays. My house was built in 1954.
So my question is, do they still produce 2x3" studs that are straight? I don't mind paying more for a good product. And I guess if I have to I'll drive further too. FWIW I'm in Maryland.

You can find “straight grain” lumber, but most people don’t know how to order it and most “yards” (Home Depot, etc.) won’t order a small amount (half units, etc.).
Lumber is divided into three “Grades”: boards, dimensional, and timber. Further, dimensional and timbers are graded into “light framing”, decking, beams, timbers, etc. Those grades are further graded into: standard, select, utility, economy, No. 2 & better, No. 1 , etc.
For “Boards”, it’s further graded into “appearance grades”, they are further graded into: finish grades, casing, flooring, siding, etc.
Lumber yards keep a standard grade for framing and a standard grade for trim, etc.
In order to get the material you want, you’ll need to special order the size and grade. (Remember, lumber grading rules allows 10% mis-graded boards in a unit and it’s still considered acceptable. I’d order 10% - 20% more than needed if the appearance grade is critical.)


What set of bits is compatible with a Bosch Uneo (SDS-Quick)? I've tried searching for at least an hour, but I'm finding very few resources and the compatibility situation is very confusing and frustrating.  Most things seem to be compatible with SDS-Max/Plus, instead.

I'm wanting to buy a variety set of bits for a Bosch Uneo, which uses SDS-Quick.  I've not been able to find an adapter from SDS-Quick to a normal chuck, so unfortunately that limits my choices.

The only things that I'm sure are SDS-Quick compatible are here.  However, that's a very limited set of bits.  Is there really no variety set of 50-100 bits available?

I've tried looking through Amazon reviews, but there's a lot of conflicting reviews, and the product information is unhelpful.

One solution is to buy an adapter and a large set of normal drills.
Another solution is to look for hex-shank drill sets

Bosch Uneo
Adapter

Bosch 2608572075 1/4" 1-10mm Keyless Chuck Adaptor (Suitable for UNEO)
Suitable for use in a cordless screwdriver and drills with forward / reverse function. Can also be used with the Bosch UNEO drill to allow the use of standard shank drill bits.
Mount : 1/4"
Capacity : 1mm - 10mm

This seems to be available from a variety of retailers.
Hex-drive
Bosch's list of compatible accessories for the Uneo includes their 43-piece X-Line drill set which all have standard hex-drive shanks. This suggests you could use any hex-drive drill set from any manufacturer.

Ikea FIXA
I think Ikea's FIXA version of the Uneo comes with such an adapter.


Heating Coils on a metal roof section I have a metal edging on my roof in an area about 4 wide.  Can I run heating coils over this metal section of the roof,because it seems to be an area that has ice dams. Presently I have a coil above the metal area, but thought that was the only possible venue.

You mean you have heating coils further up the roof - toward the peak - from the metal? That's not a good idea, since it melts the snow from the bottom up, and the water from that melting runs down onto the metal & freezes there (that's the coldest part of your roof, because the overhang isn't heated by the house's interior). The result is ice damming.

It's also not a very good idea to add heating coils on top of the metal. If for some reason they happen to not function (say a power outage or a switch failure), they'll get torn off by the sliding snow/ice. A better idea is to heat from inside the soffit, allowing that heat to rise through the metal roof.

If that's aluminum, you really should coat it with something; aluminum is hydrophilic, meaning water likes to cling to it either as water or as ice. I'd love to see you replace it with copper, which isn't nearly so hydrophilic.


How do I best tear down a small building? I've got a property where a house will built. Currently there's this little hut that needs to be completely removed to make room for building a real house. To keep costs down, I'll be doing most of the tear-down myself.

The hut is roughly 30 square meters and around 60 years old. It appears to be put together rather simply:

it has  single-pane windows, wooden-board walls, and wooden rafters hold up the roof.
There's a concrete foundation under the outside walls but apparently not underneath most of the inside area. The inside flooring is vinyl that is very soft in many places; presumably there's wood underneath that has become rotten. About a third of the inside area is tile (looks like a later addition) and I expect that there's a reasonably solid concrete foundation underneath that.
There's no heating at all, and no gas, but there is electrical cabling throughout, and a sink. I've already turned off the main water pipe where it enters the property. There's also a main fuse box at the property's edge where I can simply remove the fuses (old ceramic-body type) to make sure the power's off.

According to the previous owner and builder whom I can't ask anymore, the hut was originally a bear cage from a zoo that was being closed - this was pre-war times when people reused all sorts of things! If that's true then there might be a very sturdy steel frame in there somewhere. It's likely too, because the hut was hit by a large falling tree in a storm once, and it withstood it with barely a scratch. I think most normal garden huts would've been obliterated.

What's the best way to tear this down?  With "best" I mean simple, cheap, effective.

What tools will I need? Will regular "household" DIY tools suffice? My circular saw will probably be very useful, but I think I would need to rent a very powerful chisel to remove the foundation, at least.

I also plan to rent a big general-purpose dumpster to put the rubble in -- otherwise I'd have to spend weeks to cart everything to our local recycling center where they'd make me hand-sort the rubble into metals/glass/stone/wood/cardboard/etc.

OH, looks like fun!  Love to demo small buildings.   Basic tools will be great. Large rip claw hammers, pry bars, a good 4 foot demo bar,  a circular saw, and MOST IMPORTANT tool would be a good reciprocating saw with long bi-metal demo blades.

Be careful, start at the top, remove the roof panels. cut off the rafters one at a time. then either cut and knock down the walls and dismember, or take off the sheathing first, then disassemble or cut off the framing.

Wear good gloves, boots, and eye protection.  I dumpster is a good idea also.


Can I reuse my sink during a kitchen renovation? Sometime in the next few years, I'd like to redo my kitchen. But for now, I'd like to replace the beat-up double sink with a new, single sink and a garbage disposal.

If I replace the sink now, will my contractor be able to cut the sink out of the counter and reuse it when I eventually redo the kitchen? Or will I need to buy a brand-new sink if I do a renovation?

Most commercially purchased drop in sinks as easy to remove and reinstall.  Only custom built ins are not so easy.
Commercial drop ins are held in place by clamps up under the sink and or silicone RTV.
When removing in future the clamps are loosened and the RTV cut away.  The sink pulled and cleaned then reused.
Check the sink you plan to purchase and see how it is secured.


Typical requirements for electrical final inspection? I am doing the electrical work for an addition to our house. I am at a point where all receptacles are installed, and all rooms have lights, but we do not have all light fixtures picked out / bought yet. This may be a little bit down the road in order to make sure the design department (my wife) will be pleased with everything.
Rough in inspection was done before the sheetrock went up. I am located in Minnesota, USA, and this is under the 2017 NEC.

In order to be able to open up the wall into our existing house, I would like to get the final electrical inspection done before all the remaining lights are picked out. I don't think it would be OK to open up the wall until I get the final, as that would make the new space "occupied", right? Is it typically acceptable to have some boxes covered with blank covers or temporary lights (just plain lampholders), as long as all other requirements are generally fulfilled (i. e. receptacle spacing, lights in every room, etc).

I know this will probably vary a little depending on the inspector, but was just looking for a general guideline.

I have done work as a licensed "homeowner" many times.   (passed local electrical exam)

Your local inspector can work out whatever they want to - basically they make the rules - but in general for the final electrical inspection, all outlets must be connected and all light units must be workable.

Every inspector that I have had has turned on every single light (need bulbs too), fully ground tested every outlet, and opened up most junction boxes.   These are the basics.

But again your local inspector can do whatever he wants but I highly doubt you are passing your final electrical before lights are in.   You should expect to install them and take them out if you need to do other work.

Note: I pulled the last inspection sheet I had.   It had a checklist for the final electrical walk-through that needed inspector checks and signature.


How to remove strange looking strike plate I'm replacing my locks in my house and I can't get this strike plate removed. It had two pieces. I was able to remove the latch assist (curved piece to help slide in).  Now I'm just stuck tugging at this thing. It curves into the trim on the door frame. What kind of strike plate is this, and how can I remove it?

(This isn't its original shape, is it? I'm guessing that it was attached flat to the frame, and you bent it while trying to get it out?)

Maybe it's meant to reinforce the strike plate, to make it harder to kick the door in. I never saw anything like this - but if you can't yank it out, even with pliers, then obviously it's attached to something behind the door trim. I see these options:

Pry off the door trim piece (on the left in the photo) and see what the hell is under there.
Cut off the exposed part of the metal thingy with a Dremel.
Leave it in place, attach the new strike plate on top of it. (If there's enough space between the frame and the door.)


Which soffit vent should I install (size and angle)? Two part question: big or small vent size, and parallel or perpendicular to house?

I'm going to install almost 40 of these soffit vents around my house. All the vents at my Home Depot are 16" wide, so when I hang them parallel to the house (traditional), the corners all fall over a groove. Not ideal.

The 16" vent width matches the 16" 3-panel metal sheet width, so I can offset them and have vents overlapping panels. I'm concerned I'll be forced to make more and smaller size cuts with this strategy.

Another option is to install them perpendicular to house. It looks kind of funny, but both sizes vents would fit out of grooves better. But I'm afraid it'll scream "doesn't know jack" to everyone, especially potential buyers.

Also, should I use the bigger or smaller size, since I'm installing them under every other 16" attic bay? Bigger vent costs about 90% more.

I'm might use the smaller vents perpendicular to house, but what do you think? Thanks in advance.

BTW, I can get the smaller vents in white also.
BBTW, I forgot pic of bigger size perpendicular to house, but it covers two of the "bay" sections, with a groove running down the middle so the middle screws might be a hassle.

Were I you, I"d go for the big full size soffit panels

ALL the way around.

You pretty much can't have too much attic ventilation - you can have too little.


Can service entrance and branch circuit cables be commingled in an auxiliary gutter? One of the major Code defects in my current house that I want to rectify at some point is the fact that the (only) panelboard is mounted too high up on the wall (the current panelboard's service disconnect handle is around the 6'7" limit).  Since the panelboard is a 60+ year old, all-fuse Wadsworth that is already short on circuit spaces for the house -- what is suspected to be the air conditioner circuit breaker is mounted in a cutout box, sans cover, above the panelboard -- replacement with a modern unit seems like the cleanest option.

However, this creates a problem -- the existing service-entrance conductors likely don't have enough length to reach the new panelboard location, and likewise for the branch circuit conductors entering the panelboard.  So, I was thinking that the ideal solution to the problem would be to use an auxiliary gutter atop the panelboard to house splices between "pigtails" extending from the panelboard to their mating service-entrance and branch-circuit conductors, thus providing a neatly packaged solution without having to abuse the old panelboard cabinet as a junction box.

However, NEC 230.7 prohibits commingling service conductors with non-service conductors in the same "raceway or cable".

  230.7 Other Conductors in Raceway or Cable.

  Conductors other than service conductors shall not be installed in
  the same service raceway or service cable.

  Exception No.1: Grounding electrode conductors and
  equipment bonding jumpers or conductors.

  Exception No.2: Load management control conductors
  having overcurrent protection.

This raises two questions, though.  First, the Code uses "service-entrance conductor" instead of "service conductor" to presumably refer to the conductor from the meter base to the service disconnect with "service conductor" referring to the utility's conductors up to the meter, which would mean that under my interpretation, the commingling issue is moot.  However, there's also the interpretation that a "service-entrance conductor" is a kind of "service conductor", which'd mean that 230.7 would apply to "service-entrance conductors" as well.

Furthermore, is an auxiliary gutter a raceway?  One would think not, since they do not follow raceway fill rules, are authorized to contain splices and taps "by default" in 366.56 (which is not cited as an exception by 300.13 which normally prohibits splices in raceways) as well as 300.15(A), and follow different ampacity derating rules as per 366.23.  However, I am sure that someone who just looked at the Article 100 definition of "raceway" by itself would see no reason it wouldn't apply to auxiliary gutters:

  Raceway. An enclosed channel of metallic or nonmetallic
  materials designed expressly for holding wires, cables, or bus-
  bars, with additional functions as permitted in this Code.

Finally, in 366.2, the Code definition of what an auxiliary gutter is designed to be used with refers to "meter centers, distribution centers, switchgear, switchboards, and similar points of wiring systems".

  Metallic Auxiliary Gutter. A sheet metal enclosure used
  to supplement wiring spaces at meter centers, distribution
  centers, switchgear, switchboards, and similar points of
  wiring systems. The enclosure has hinged or removable
  covers for housing and protecting electrical wires, cable,
  and busbars. The enclosure is designed for conductors to be
  laid or set in place after the enclosures have been installed
  as a complete system.

Does that phrase include panelboards (including residential-type panelboards/load centers)?  Or is using an auxiliary gutter with a panelboard/load center a Code violation as the gutter suddenly ceases to be a gutter by way of what it's mated to, leaving you with wires and splices in something that's not any kind of enclosure the Code recognizes?

It may be Code, but that doesn't mean it's a wise idea!

First off, I was under a mistaken impression about service-entrance conductors, so I'll clear that up now.  It turns out that the Article 100 definition of "service conductors" includes both "service-entrance conductors" from the service drop/lateral splice to the service disconnect and "service drop conductors" that go from the utility transformer or service tap ("service point" in the Code) to the drop/lateral splice that connects them to the service-entrance conductors.

  Service Conductors. The conductors from the service point
  to the service disconnecting means.

Second, an auxiliary gutter is not a raceway (unlike the physically similar product known as "wireway") -- this is based on the informational note to the Art. 100 definition of "raceway":

  Informational Note: A raceway is identified within specific
  article definitions.

and the fact that 366.2's definitions refer to auxiliary gutters as enclosures, not "raceways".

This means that the 230.7 prohibition does not apply to auxiliary gutters, as the service-entrance conductors and the branch circuit conductors are not in the same "cable or raceway".  However, the intent of 230.7 is to keep overcurrent-protected conductors away from unprotected conductors, and my proposed configuration would not provide that segregation.

Finally, in practice, auxiliary gutters are used with panelboards as they are similar in function to switchboards or distribution centers.

Options for similar situations to mine

If you don't want to do a dumb thing that your inspector may or may not flag as it's not against Code, you have two options in a similar situation to mine:

Segregate the protected and unprotected conductors into separate conduits and terminate them in separate boxes

This is what Harper did to recover from his encounter with some very nasty copper thieves.  This works provided you can get length in the existing cables to route them to multiple distribution boxes, and enough box space to accommodate all the splices (in addition to 4" square boxes for branches and feeders, Harper had to use a pair of 10" square NEMA boxes for incoming wiring).

Use divider plates in the auxiliary gutter to separate the protected and unprotected conductors.

This was Ed Beal's solution to having a feeder, branch circuits, and data wires in the same gutter -- partitions can be used to provide separated spaces within the gutter for each type of wiring.  This is similar to how boxes that contain both mains and Class II or data wiring are partitioned to separate the high and low voltage sides from each other.

This has the advantage that all the wires can be routed to a single, existing point instead of having to be spread apart to route to many junction boxes, but is costlier as it may require a larger gutter to accommodate the fills within the various partitions.


How to vent a 2nd clothes dryer? Bought a new washer+dryer. Old washer+dryer are still working fine, so I figured I will keep the old dryer and just dispose of the old top load washer (the new one is a nice front load). They're both electric, so I don't have to worry about gas plumbing.

Do I need a separate vent pipe for each dryer? Or can they just "share" a single vent pipe, via a "Y-pipe?"

A dryer moves a lot of air, and requires a dedicated 4" vent.  For two dryers to operate at the same time, you would need a 6" vent.  Just as air conditioning ducting gets smaller as it splits off, the two outgoing vents will need to join into a larger vent.

The area of a 4" vent is (πr^2 = 3.14 * 2 * 2 = ) 12.6 sq in.  A 6" vent is 28.3 sq in. so it can handle the two 4" vents (you wouldn't have to double the vent size to 8"...).

Combine this with the need for an additional electric run, and your spare dryer is turning into a big expense!


Installing a washing machine - sink drain pipe closed I am trying to install a new washing machine, but I found that the sink drain pipe is closed. Please see the pictures below.

My questions:

Should I cut the top of this plastic or is there a component I need to buy?
Is it something that I will need to ask permission for from the house manager?

Dishwasher Inlet

First of all, I assume we are talking here about a dishwasher and not a machine for washing clothing. It is unusual to connect a "washing machine" (as opposed to a "dishwasher") under the kitchen sink, though not impossible. I believe this is a difference in terminology between the USA and other parts of the world. Continuing based on dishwasher.

In the USA, many (most?) people have a disposal under the kitchen sink. I understand that is not nearly as common in other parts of the world. Most disposals (all the ones I've worked with, but I am not a professional plumber so my experience is limited) have a dishwasher inlet that looks very similar to the capped pipe. I believe the capped pipe is a dishwasher inlet. You should be able to remove (cut off if necessary, as close to the top as possible) the cap and attach the dishwasher hose directly to the pipe. The ridges on the pipe help to keep the dishwasher hose attached, though you can put on a clamp if it does not seem to be secure enough. If the dishwasher hose and the pipe are not compatible (the dishwasher hose should be just large enough to fit snugly over the pipe) then you will need an adapter - measure the hose and the pipe and go to your favorite hardware store.
When you install the dishwasher hose, it can be connected in one of two ways:

Air gap - a metal/plastic gadget that is typically installed next to the faucet. One hose goes from the dishwasher to the air gap. Another hose goes from the air gap down to the pipes. These are a pain (they often break over time, leaking around & under the sink) but in some places they are still the only legal way to install a dishwasher.
High hose loop - the dishwasher hose loops up to just under the counter and then down to the pipes. This has the same general effect as a traditional air gap - preventing sewer water from backing up into the dishwasher - but is much simpler and easier to install.

As far as asking permission: If the landlord already knows you are installing a dishwasher then there should not be an issue. If the landlord does NOT know you are installing a dishwasher, then I recommend checking with him first. Cutting the cap off the pipe is no big deal, but installing a dishwasher - which can affect water usage and which (typically, unless you are using a portable unit, in which case cutting the pipes would not even be an issue) normally involves replacing a cabinet with the dishwasher - is something the landlord would expect to be consulted before installation.
While you're at it, the pipes look a bit strange. As already noted in comments, the trap is not a typical P-trap, though logically it should work. In addition, the pipe coming out of the trap is a flexible corrugated hose. That is generally not recommended as it can collect grease & debris in the folds and clog more easily than a regular pipe. (You may say "but isn't the dishwasher hose the same?" and the answer is "the dishwasher doesn't get as much as the main drain pipe and the dishwasher hose is easily removable to clean if it gets  clogged".)


In layman's terms how much pressure is 4000 psi? 4000 psi sounds like a lot. That's what some pressure washers can go up to. Just how much pressure is that? What are some real world examples that would help explain that kind of pressure?

4000 PSI is too much or a shitload of pressure.  I would never use it on high on anything that I was cleaning at a home.  Even brick work could get damaged of up close 4000 PSI.  Probably the only thing I would use it for is cleaning my driveway but even then I would probably use a fan nozzle.  4000 PSI would just rip the paint off a home - one with a really good paint job.

If you want to really clean instead of blasting the crap out of something the key isn't just PSI, it is also a factor of the waterflow rate.  This is measured on most powerwashers as GPM or gallons per minute.  You multiply GPM and the PSI to get the cleaning units (CUs) of your powerwasher.  This is the most important factor for cleaning, not PSI.  A lot of the big box stores sell their cheaper powerwashers with high PSI because that is what the consumer is used to looking for.  These high PSI, low GPM units will not clean as well and are more likely to damage the surface you're cleaning.

Note: The chart below references usage based on staying an appropriate distance for the material and PSI.   Obviously if you just look at the first column and you spray your car with a 2500 PSI powerwasher from point blank, get ready for a new pain job.

Things I have used a powerwasher for:

decks (be careful with composite)
sidewalks
driveways
non-painted fences
gutters
garage floors
houses wood (it isn't my first choice or even second.  Also if I am painting I need 4-5 days of summer after powerwashing)
brick (but very risky and must take your time and stand back and properly presoap.  You can cut mortar loose)
my trailers
greasy tools (non-electric all metal)

Things I try not to powerwash:

houses (vinyl no way, brick is a risk, even wood I will stand back a bit)
cars
windows (you will destroy the caulking)
roofs
painted fences
anything inside


Accuracy of humidity sensor I just had a new Carrier Infinity HVAC system installed in my home, which included the Infinity thermostat. I have a couple of old household thermometer/humidity gauges - one mechanical, the other electronic (a Radio Shack unit from perhaps 15 years ago). They don't quite agree on the humidity level in my home. For example, as I write this, Infinity says 45%, Radio Shack says 46%, mechanical says 65%. Subjectively, the air "feels" humid, making me inclined to believe the mechanical gauge over both the Carrier and the Radio Shack despite their close agreement. It matters to me because, among other things, I have solid hardwood floors and don't want to risk ruining them due either excess or inadequate humidity.

So, I have to ask: how accurate is the humidity sensor in the Infinity system i.e. +/- up to how many percentage points could it be in error from the true value?

Digital relative humidity sensors are typically accurate to plus/minus 3% relative humidity throughout the entire 0-100% RH range, but closer to plus/minus 2% at 50% RH. At the bottom are some specs from the datasheet of a typical digital humidity sensor.

The simplest way to calibrate a relative humidity sensor is with table salt and water in a airtight container. Salt water calibration instructions. The basic concept is that an airtight container that has undissolved salt mixed with water at normal room temperatures will come to an equilibrium over time to exactly 75% relative humidity. You use the known 75% RH environment to calibrate your instrument.

I've had experience with mechanical hygrometers for cigar humidors, and I've found that they need to be calibrated but can be pretty accurate after calibration. I would recalibrate your mechanical hygrometer to the average of your two digital readings if you're unable to do the salt and water calibration. It would be difficult to put your thermostat into an airtight container, but maybe your Radio Shack or mechanical units will fit?


When pouring concrete, is it safe to add large rocks to increase volume? Backround

I'm going to pour some concrete to anchor a swing set. The base of the swing set that is being anchored is two 4x4s with a 2x4 footer crossed perpendicularly to the 4x4s.

I have a bunch of large softball-sized rocks in my yard. I was thinking I could buy less concrete mix, and get rid of some of these rocks, if I threw some of the rocks into the wet concrete.

I assume the concrete will harden around the rocks and they will set together to become a solid mass.

Question

Is my assumption correct? or will the rocks damage the integrity of the concrete anchor?

Here is a drawing of posts and anchor (with rocks depicted)

Update

I poured the cement in June 2015 (about a year and a half ago). The swingset is still standing strong.

The biggest takeaway from this experience is the consistancy of wet cement. I assumed it was like latex paint, but it was more like thick oatmeal or damp sand. It didn't really pour and fill up all available space. I had to spoon it in with a shovel and pat it down into place around the posts.

Concrete is a mix of large aggregate, small aggregate, and cement (a 4:2:1 ratio is a good approximation - though designed mixes will be more calculated than that).

The size of the large aggregate isn't particularly important, unless you are working in very tight spaces or around reinforcement, in which case you want suitably small aggregate.

In this case there won't be a problem at all using softball-sized rocks. Just make sure that they are clean (ie don't have soil stuck to them).

(I remember seeing a section cut through a piece of concrete at the Hoover Dam Visitor Centre, and some of the large aggregate in that was rocks up to perhaps about 8 inch / 200mm or more).


Shortening Roof Rafters for Flat Roof Addition I'm in the early stages of planning an addition which will involve extending a flat roof out from a sloped roof. Are there reference sources/videos/etc out there discussing approaches to shortening and supporting the existing rafters to allow the flat roof to be raised to the height I'd like, as well as how to properly attach the flat roof to the sloped roof? Here's a rough mockup of the current rafter structure:

And an equally rough mockup of what I'd like to end up with:

Typically what is done  is the main roof is left intact and the shed roof rafters are set to a ledger that is set on top of the main rafters. That will mean a long angled cut on the shed roof rafter which, according to your drawing, by the time the angled cut it set to the ledgers the bottom corner so to speak of the shed roof rafters will be very close to the bearing wall below. The ledger may need to be done in two runs to cover the whole cut of the shed rafter. Or, with some layout, a single run of 2X12 set so the heel of the cut is at the lower edge of the 2X12 ledger. The rest of the rafter will set directly to the roof sheathing which can be applied before any of the ledgers are set. Just be sure that ventilation will flow from one roof to the other so heat does not build up with no place to go.


Time Frame For Dealing With Flooded Carpet I hope this question is appropriate to this Stack.

My elderly mother lives alone in a townhouse with a basement, since my father passed about six months ago.  This morning, the basement experienced mild flooding with unusual circumstances.  Let me describe the basement as best I can, then the extent of the flooding, then ask the question.

The Basement

The basement is perhaps 800-1000 square feet, wall to wall carpet of the sort one puts in the basement of a townhouse-- rugged, durable, not exactly for show.  Three areas are not carpeted: a workshop area my father used, the furnace and boiler closet, and a utility closet.  The former of those two areas had sump pumps installed.

Of importance later is this:  My father was a packrat and the basement is filled with bookshelves, tool shelves, tool racks, and just outright waist-high piles of full cardboard boxes.  And I do mean filled.  There are foot paths one can navigate with care.

Per answer below I will try to describe the conditions more precisely:

The carpet is slightly under ten years old, newly installed by previous owners to motivate the sale
Basement was largely unused and most of the carpet has been covered by boxes.  I don't know if that means it is clean because the boxes protected it, or dirty because the boxes have pressed into it.
Climate appropriate to far Chicago suburbs, fifteen miles from the lake, 250 feet higher elevation from the lake.  Central air keeps the ground floor at 72 in the summer, perhaps a bit chillier than that in the basement, and no excessive moisture or other leaks observed in all that time.

The Flooding

The flooding was not severe.  The pumps functioned mostly as expected, but at least at one point they were overwhelmed, and my mother (with hearing problems) did not hear the pumps or the moisture alert until hours later.  Most of the water was confined to the truly unfinished areas with the sump pumps, and by the time I arrived it has mostly receded.

At least some of it has gotten under the carpet, however.  Visibly this extends only a short distance into the carpeted area.  I have since mopped and wet-vac'd up everything I could, and placed two residential sized floor blowers to start drying things out.  (I considered cutting a hole in the carpet and running the exhaust of a wet-vac under the carpet, but the amount of stuff sitting on the floor would just pin the carpet down and impede airflow.)

Some hours later, though, I can see some of the cardboard boxes on the floor well outside (what I thought was) the affected area wicking up moisture into themselves.  I am not quite sure what's going on here but I conjecture the carpet acted like a sponge or a wick, and distributed moisture horizontally which I did not perceive, and the weight of the (let's be honest) junk is pressing it out.  I'm not sure that makes sense.

The Question(s)

How long do we have to deal with this situation before mold and other associated problems set in?  Surely not months, but weeks?  Days?  Hours?

It is not physically possible for me, my mother, or any reasonable fraction of family and friends to clear out that basement in short order.  It cannot be done.  A day long junk removal contract is the only way to deal with this in the short term.

A mild confounding factor is that my mother and I have been willing to let older relatives of my father's generation slowly (s-l-o-w-l-y) pick over the tools and other objects they want.  I can and will drop the hammer and set a deadline on this if necessary, but I do not know what level of speed is required here.  I also do not want to see a $2,000 problem (expected cost of removal service) to snowball into a $20,000 nightmare because we were trying to be nice to family members.

In addition to that I will take any advice that seems relevant.  But the time frame is the biggest unknown that I have right now.

Depends on a lot of unknowns; temperature, humidity, carpet material, how dirty it is etc. etc. Could be as short as hours though, days at best, but not weeks.

You need to dry out that carpet immediately. I would call a "starving student" moving company or someone like that and have them move the "collection" somewhere like a storage site or one of those temporary containers they put in your driveway (PODS is one company I see, stands for Portable On Demand Storage), that way your relatives can pick through it at their convenience.


Can I use free denim insulation that got wet outdoors? I found some denim insulation on craigslist for free. It's really inviting to me as I'm on a tight budget and would really appreciate not having to buy my own insulation for near $500.

I asked the seller if there was any mold and he said no. Only got a little wet while stored outdoors.

It is about 400 sqft and I need 340 sqft. If some parts are dirty, I can still get a good amount of usable insulation out of it.

Is it safe for my health to use?
Is there any cleaning I should do prior to using it?
Is denim insulation washable?
Is it significantly less effective due to its age?

Here is a photo from the ad:

Is it safe for my health to use?
Probably healthier than some options. It's a natural cotton fiber and if made AS insulation (as opposed to someone just shredding old jeans), it is treated with boric acid (Borax) as a mold and pest repellent as well as making it flame retardant.
Is there any cleaning I should do prior to using it?
No, absolutely not! It takes a LONG time to dry out if it gets wet.
Is denim insulation washable?
Again, NO!
Is it significantly less effective due to its age?
Probably not, but we don't know it's age. Cotton fibers do break down.


Grounding requirements for multipanel, multiservice installation Overview: My question ultimately boils down to figuring out how many wires I can properly stuff down an existing conduit.

There are many questions pertaining to wiring and grounding sub-panels, but I'm not sure if the addition of the metering aspect makes it trickier or not.

Backstory: I am upgrading my service to 200 amp. Down the road, I may get an Electric Vehicle, and our utility has a special pricing if you charge during certain hours of the day, and in order to be on that program, you need a separate meter for that. So, when I replace the existing meter and breaker panel, I want to make sure I've set myself for success if/when I add the new meter down the road.

I currently have a subpanel in my detached garage. If I was to do this specialized meter, that panel would become a main panel fed by the EV meter. However, I have a light on the garage, that is switched from within the house.

The following is an illustration of how I think the system should be setup. What I am uncertain about, is connections of the grounding between each meter system. From my reading, what I have drawn is legit, and that it's fine to bond the panel grounds together even when on different meters. Others online have said that each 'service', the House and EV meters, should have their own independent grounding wiring systems, meaning 2 connections to the water meter, and 4 ground rods by the house. Personally that seems nonsensical, but I want to be sure. The main area that result in a problem is filling the conduit.

When charging an EV, I'd want to pump as much juice out to the EV panel as practical. If I do indeed have to run two 8ga ground wires in the conduit, I may be only able to do 50-60 amp continuously, instead of 75 or 100 as I'd like. 1-1/4 conduit isn't huge, and with 6 current carrying conductors in there I have to derate the capacity by 80 percent. With 3 14g wires, 3 2g wires, and a 6g wire I'm getting pretty close to the 40% max fill limit.* When all the temp and fill deratings are computed I might have to downsize my EV conductors.

So what is it? Can ground be shared by everything, or do I need to have multiple grounding systems for each metered system?

*I am looking into a smaller neutral wire, then I'd be able to put two 1g wires in for 110 nominal amps, but haven't done the math yet on whether that would be up to code, but in that scenario I'd be a razor thin amount under the 40% fill rule.

Use bare copper ground wires.

Grounds don't need insulation, so don't waste the fill.

Consider using copper feeder.

Copper? For feeder!!??  Weird, I know.  Copper is expensive and a poor conductor by most measures.  But when conduit fill is the scarce commodity, volume is the measure that counts - and by that measure, copper is the best conductor on earth by volume because it is so very dense. (well silver is like 2% better, a negligible gain for extreme cost, so not worth mentioning, just as we don't mention sodium is 5% better than aluminum and also explodes).

For thermal derate, only count wires that count.

For fill, all wires count. But thermally...

If 2 wires together, by design, cannot flow more ampacity than 1 wire is rated for, they count as 1 wire:

You're not allowed to intentionally use ground for current, so grounds don't count.
In split-phase or MWBC, neutral only handles differential current. Neutral current + the lesser hot conductor must = the greater hot conductor.  So neutral doesn't count in these.

Unless it's a "2 hots out of 3, + neutral" circuit in 3-phase power. There, the neutral has some current with 2 hots maxed, so neutral counts there.

The 2 travelers together, only 1 is hot at a time, so the 2 count as 1.

In almost all cases, this boils down to 2 wires per circuit.

Derate off the highest the wire can run.

There's a table, 310.15(B)(16), which gives wire ampacities based on thermal ratings.  Different wires have different ratings, and so do terminations.

Say you come off a 75C breaker using 90C wire to a 60C NEMA socket.  What ampacity can you breaker for?  The 60C number, because the socket is the limiting factor.
But when you're doing conduit fill derate,  what ampacity do you derate off of?  60C? No, the socket is not inside the conduit. 75C? Ditto.  You derate off 90C.

So let's say you have #3 Cu THWN with 6 conductors that count. 80% derate off 115A (90C) = 92A derate. Round up to the next size breaker, that's 100A breaker.  Suppose your EVSE is 79 amps, 92A can definitely carry 79A. You must derate the EVSE 125% so 98.75A, and boom! 100A breaker.  Everything is happy.

Don't run neutral to things that don't need neutral

EVSE's don't need neutral. At least if an EVSE needs neutral, don't buy it. Because that's just super lazy on their part, they're saving 50 cents buying a 120V-only controls power supply instead of a 120+240V one.

Garage lights also don't need 120+240V split-phase.  If you really have a 2880 watt light, run 240V only and evict the neutral from the pipe.

"Oh, but I'll have a subpanel there" -- then you need to use good "design language" to communicate to subsequent morons that there is no neutral here.  First, add an accessory ground bar to the subpanel, and use it for grounds and not the factory supplied neutral bar.  Second, I would make a sign out of heavy cardboard and cut it with little comb fingers that can go into the neutral bar, and the sign says "No 120V loads! Neutral Not Available In This Panel" or something like that.  For bonus points, remove all the lug bolts from the neutral bar.  You've done your part. If someone insists on sticking a 120V load in that panel, not your problem.

What's the "main" panel doing so far from its meter?

I am wiggy about the idea of coming off the meter with a long, unfused run to the EVSE main panel in the garage. I can't cite chapter and verse but I bet that is not Code.  Putting the EVSE main panel at the meter will cause this run to become a branch circuit and not a service, and the no-neutral 240V makes more sense.  At that point you don't go to any panel, you simply go to the EVSE directly. (unless you want to stop at a fat surge suppressor first).

I am also uncomfortable mixing service 1's service wires with service 2's branch circuit wires.  That seems like it may be a codevio, but again I can't quite chapter and verse.

Multiple services can use the same Grounding Electrode System.

I have 2 services sitting right next to each other that grab the same Ufer ground.  Their EMT conduit web connects not only to each other but to the 480V service as well.  And they're on a metal building.  I couldn't separate them without really trying, and if I tried, all I'd do is create shock risk across the insulating pads.

Dump the lighting branch. Power it out of the existing garage sub.

That little light switch is a lot of trouble.  You need 3 wires (2 travelers 1 return) to power that thing.  But that's what it takes before smart switches came along.

So convert the garage light to a smart switch (out at the garage).  Use a partner smart switch inside the house that uses either wireless or powerline signaling (make sure it's fed by the same pole in your panel).

If that doesn't work, go to a "Plan B".  Replace the three #14s with three #18s, and control the light from a GE RR7 relay in the garage.  Now you can wire it in the conduit in #18 wire (though still NM-B outside the conduit).  The switches get replaced with momentary-on switches. Pushing up throws the relay "on". Pushing down throws the relay "off".  Do not use standard 3-ways, which are on 24x7 and will overheat the relay.

Here's the trick.  This is low voltage (24V) wiring. You're not allowed to put low-voltage wiring in the same pipe with mains wiring unless all of the low-voltage wiring is contained within Class I wiring methods rated for 120/240V. That means you can throw #18's in the conduit, but you can't run 18/3 thermostat cable outside the conduit to the switches - for that you must switch to 14/3 NM-B, which is a Class I wiring method.


What features should I look for in a full-house surge protector? How does one select a surge protector for a typical home?

We get surges and slight drops in line voltage. We are the last pole on a small town electric provider, three miles from town. Surge protectors cost from $180 to thousands.

How do I determine what is good but not cheap and not more than I need?

First off: If your lights dim and brighten, that's due to changes in voltage.  To solve this requires a "power conditioner", or solving a serious problem known as a "floating neutral".

To protect against lightning or high voltage spikes, you want a "surge protector".  These protect equipment from damage (the spikes can be tens of thousands of volts).

To keep computers or TV's running through brief power outages you want an "uninterruptible power supply" or UPS.

And finally you might want a "backup generator".

It's possible you want all four types of device in different places.  Some devices combine more than one function.  For example a good offline UPS will offer power conditioning and and surge protection, but will be limited in capacity and not suitable for the entire building.

Power does not "flow through" a whole house surge protector.  One unit, costing perhaps $100, protects the entire house.

There's typically only one whole house unit made for your particular brand of main electrical service panel.  Thus, choosing a whole house surge protector is easy (see a list of them over at my website http://guides.obviously.com/Whole-House-Surge-Protectors/1482 ).


New ceiling light not working I installed new ceiling lights and one of them is not working. Nothing was existing, it was all new. I tapped into an existing electrical outlet, wired that to a new light switch, and then wired that to 4 lights, all daisy chained. It goes outlet > switch > light a > light b > light c > light d.

Everything works great when the wire to light d is not connected. If light d is connected, the breaker trips as soon as the switch is flipped. I thought it was a bad light so I bought a new one and replaced it. No luck. I've tried different light bulbs as well but nothing seems to work.

I inspected the wire from light c to light d and did not see any breaks.

Where should I go from here?

It's possible you have a short.  From your question I don't know if you disconnected D by removing the connection at C or D.  You could try this:

I'll assume since you did all this you're basically OK working with electrical.  Get yourself a non contact voltage detector and use that through this whole process to confirm things are dead before you touch them.

With the breaker off, and the switch off, look at the wiring in the box at D.  Look for any place the bare conductor of the hot wire could touch the bare ground wire, the neutral, or metal inside the box.  Look for nicks in the wire, places where stripped wire extends past the wire nut, etc.
If that doesn't reveal anything, with the breaker and switch still off, remove the last light fixture (D) and cap the hot and neutral wires with wire nuts.  Turn on the breaker, turn on the switch, see if it trips.  If so, there is probably a short between the hot and neutral wires or hot and ground wires in the cable between C and D.
If it trips with the D light disconnected and the wires capped, turn the breaker and switch back off, remove the C fixture, undo the wiring and cap the wires that feed D, and reconnect C as if it was the last light in the line.  Turn the breaker back on, turn the switch back on, and confirm that the breaker doesn't trip.

If it does, then something's not consistent.  I'll assume it doesn't.

Turn off the breaker and switch again, and test for continuity between the hot and neutral wires from C to D, and between the hot and ground from C to D.  If you see continuity with the wires disconnected and capped at both ends, you've found a short.  The wire from C to D will have to be replaced.

If this doesn't lead you to a fix, you might want to call in for reinforcements, and leave that breaker off until they arrive.


60-minute Drywall for ceiling beneath residential fire sprinklers? My fire sprinkler contractor says that we need to install 5/8" 60-min fire rated drywall in all ceilings, but my GC says 1/2" will pass code. Who is right?

If the code does call for 60-minute drywall, which inspector would be checking for it? The fire department inspects the sprinkler system prior to drywall, so I'm thinking that would leave the inspector who comes in right after drywall hanging. Am I right?

I doubt you need a 1-hour Fire rated ceiling.

Fire sprinklers eliminate the need for fire rated construction in wood frame buildings, unless 1) encroachment on property line setback requirements, 2) hazardous storage facility, 3) fire separation between an occupancy type “I” (institutional) and other occupancies.

Also, it may be required under local sub-division requirements (CC&R’s).

However, fire ratings are based on SYSTEMS. if you need a 1-hour fire rated SYSTEM, you can use: 1) 5/8” Type “X” on the ceilings with joists spaced up to 24” oc, or 2) 1/2” Type “C” gypsum board on the ceiling with joist spacing up to 16” oc.  If you need to space the framing further apart than 24”, you can add stripping, but nailing is critical...I’d check with the local Building Official.

Remember, nailing size, type and spacing is critical.


Cannot drill far enough to mount curtain pole Trying to mount a curtain pole above my window, and I cannot drill far enough in to get a rawlplug plus screw into the wall.  I can drill ~0.75in deep but no further.

I have considered getting a heavier duty drill to do the job, but I am worried that it may be something I shouldn't be drilling in to such as a lintel.

What's the solution for mounting a curtain pole in this situation?

I'm guessing here, but it sounds like you're trying to drill into stone/cement/concrete. If so, you need a drill bit meant for rock and a percussion/ hammer drill. You can buy cheapy hammer drills that won't last very long (harbor freight comes to mind if you're in the US), or rent them.

Oh, and the only thing you don't want to drill into is electrical/plumbing/gas. Everything else is fair game. (Though, now that I think of it, if you're unlucky enough to have a steel beam across your window, you'll have to revisit your strategy.)


How do I dry up a stucco wall that presents efflorescence? I have determined the source of the water and I would like to believe that I stopped that with a temporary fix (a large tarp that will cover my patio which used to collect water at the base of the wall; I am on my way to redo the patio as well).
Now, because the temperatures are getting below 0 here where I live I would like to speed up the drying of this wall (see the picture below)
I would like to try that from inside and from outside if there is any way to do it.
Outside is what you see in the picture below
Inside is a finished basement with above the grade windows. I am quite sure that the previous owner used a vapor barrier right under the drywall and fiberglass insulation (so it is solid insulation panels,2x4 studs, fiberglass, vapor barrier and drywall)
Is there any way to dry up that wall from inside without tearing down the whole thing and rebuilding it?
From what I have read so far I will need to rebuild it because a plastic vapour barier is the last thing that you need in these cases. The same for the fiber glass batt that absorbs water and adders to the wall making the things even worse

Edit: this is 9 months later. I fixed the slope of the patio 1 month ago, and while I was fixing that I realized that a lot of water was going under the patio via the deck post holes around which the patio was also poorly sloped. I found dirt and earthworms under the bricks ...
My brother in low told me that it will take year for the humidity in soil to disappear ...I am more optimistic but he might be right. Here is a picture taken today (~9 months later)

Here's what comes to mind:

Increasing air flow, using fans - on both sides if possible.
Applying a product that will extract the moisture (sorry, no idea if such a product exists - maybe someone else knows of one).
Increasing the heat of the area to encourage moisture evaporation.  This can be accomplished with conventional heaters, heating bars, or using mirrors to redirect the sunlight.

Combining the ideas may increase their efficacy.

Please note that I do not consider myself to be an expert on this matter.


How can I prevent my dehumidifier drain line from freezing? Is there a 120 Volt switch that would shut down power to a dehumidifier when the outside temperature goes down to 35°F to protect the drain line from freezing. A digital thermometer would need to be mounted outside to detect the 35°F temperature to shut down power to the unit.

I install dehumidification systems to control interior environments after our mold remediation projects but here in the northeastern USA, the temperature freezes the drain lines and the units no longer have a self draining operation.

You can wrap the drain line in electric pipe heating tape to prevent it from freezing:

You should be able to find it at your local home improvement store.