Should I put a cap on this pipe? Underneath my kitchen sink you can see the following:

As you can see, the spout (is this the correct term?) has kitchen roll stuck in it.

Isn't this suppose to be sealed with a cap? Doesn't it run the risk of leaking (granted it hasn't just yet). If it does need a cap what should I be getting for it?

Thanks.

EDIT

Further pictures for clarity.

That is one option. A better option may be to replace the double-wye with a single wye and eliminate unnecessary potential future leak sources. The wye on the left is no longer needed. The fewer the joints, the fewer potential failure points.


How to remove a screw from electrical box? I am replacing one of the light switches at home. The bottom screw that fastens the switch to the electrical box is half way out, but refuses to come out any more, no matter how hard I rotate the screw driver. My guess is that either the screw or the hole in the electrical box is stripped. Is there any way I can get it out?

The best way to get it out is muscle. Not much else.  Use a vice grip type plier to get it out.  If it breaks off go to the other side.   Some people say tighten it up into a drill and use the drill to get it out.  When you get it out then re-tap the screw hole.  In the U.S. electrical boxes are 6/32 and most DIY's and electrical wholesalers sell taps for this reason.  Good Luck.


How does a garage door motor wall control on a two wire circuit determine between door control and light control? I am trying to recreate the garage door wall switch (making a custom assembly that has two buttons to toggle the door and toggle the light). The first thing that I am attempting to understand is the voltage being passed from the motor, to the wall switch and then back to the motor.
While looking at different articles and other places on the internet I discovered that the COM port on the motor passed power down to the wall controller and when the door button was pressed closed the circuit for a brief amount of time to make the motor move the door. To control the light, I thought that the same voltage was passed down through the same wire but instead a lower voltage was passed back up (making the switch more of a voltage divider). There is only one wire going back into the motor meaning it has to be something of a varying voltage to control the door and light.
When using a Fluke Multimeter I was getting a jumping reading from the wire connected to the COM port on the back of the wall control around 0.750 VAC. (I didn't like that it wasn't giving me a constant reading, originally I thought the meter was broke but put it into a standard outlet and got a solid 120 volts). When pressing the door control the voltage on the wire that went back up to the motor read 0.750 VAC. I figured that jumping the circuit would toggle the door, which it did. This made me think that the door opening was a simple instance of closing the circuit for about half a second but made me unsure of what the true voltage was.
The second challenge was how to tell the motor to turn the light on/off through that same wire. A few articles I read stated that the wall control acted as a voltage divider but not by how much or if the motor needed said amount of voltage for how long. When measuring with the light switch pressed down I got readings jumping around 0.350 VAC, but once again nothing concrete.
Here are my questions from all of this, and I am mainly asking those who have tried something like this before or know the common circuitry of these products.
How many volts are sent through the COM port on the motor to the wall controller?
How many volts are returned to the motor from the controller to open the door?
How many volts are returned to the motor from the controller to toggle the light?
I have a Genie Pro Max system, but from what I can tell and the fact that manufactures sell universal door switches I think most systems operate around the same circuitry.
Thank you in advance for your help.

I haven't played with a Genie unit, but I spent some time with an oscilloscope and a Chamberlain/Lift Master unit several years ago. I found it has two modes of operation. One is the simple contact closure -- just short the two wires together and the motor will operate. The other mode is digital. The two wires carry power to the wall control, but they also carry a serial data communication protocol between the motor and the control. The only way to control the advanced features, such as turning the light on and off, is to use one of the wall controls with the digital interface.
As I recall, I also found that the two modes can't be used together. For example, you can't put the fancy wall control in one place in the garage and put a simple doorbell type switch in another place. When the simple switch shorts the wires the door operator goes into "dumb switch" mode and the fancy wall control ceases working (until the door operator is power cycled).
I couldn't say for sure whether your Genie works the same as that Chamberlain did, but I would not be surprised if it does. In any case, you wouldn't get far with discovering this nor reverse-engineering it armed with only a volt meter, unfortunately.


Does placing electrical cables in a fence between two structures meet electrical code? Can electrical cables be concealed in a fence between two structures? In this residence, the power meters and outdoor panels are located on the garage. There is a panel inside the residence like most places.

In the fence I see three bundles of wires:

Telephone and cable TV
Typical NM like is used inside the walls of a house
Larger cable like is used from a pole to a house normally, probably aluminum.

What seems out of place is that the wiring is concealed in a fence between the structures. I would expect it to be buried or overhead. As it stands, someone attempting to make repairs to the fence could easily drive a nail or screw directly into what appears to be electrical wiring.

Given that the horizontal studs are 1.5 inches deep plus the depth of the vertical planks being .5 inch ( guessing ) total depth is 2".  This is a good thing but, and I am going to have to emphasize the but, ..... this is not normal and given the amount and size of wires in there I am not comfortable saying this is okay.  But what do I know, I'm only a licensed master electrician who runs his own insured company. ;-)


How to repair my concrete slab porch. I bought this house a few years ago, built in 1926. Not long ago, what was a slight crack in the porch became much bigger when the concrete gave way. Now I have a serious safety situation and haven't let people on the porch since. This slab sits on block foundation in the front of the house. I have had a couple of 'contractors' give me some ideas on how to remedy the situation:

Cut around the perimeter, knock the existing concrete into the center, fill with gravel and pour a new top.
Fill will gravel and patch existing damage.
Jack up some beams from underneath to brace the existing slab and then patch.
Cut the perimeter, bust out the existing concrete, Dig some footers and put a decking material on top.

I am really not sure of the pros/cons of any of these, but I am looking for a cost effective solution. I need to sell this house soon (family is expanding) and definitely don't want to be turning buyers away before they even step in the door.

Patching rarely works out, structurally or aesthetically. If you want the cost effective remedy then go with smashing it up and installing properly supported decking material. This will likely involve installation of footings for support joists.

A close look at the pictures reveals an underlying problem related to movement of the porch foundation, that is at least one of the root causes of the significant cracking visible in both the slab and the foundation. The proper fix would be to remedy the underlying problem. You wish the job to be "cost effective"; with the long term view, repair of the foundation would be the most cost effective because the problem would be solved and future repair costs would be minimized. It would, however, likely be the most expensive of your options.


How do I wire a gazebo I just purchased a outdoor pavilion that came with an electrical package. It includes a #12 two wire plus a ground wire going into an electrical box for the on and off switch to run the fan and another #12 two wire plus ground wire going into a GFI outlet box. The GFI outlet should run constant while the switch should run when turned on.
My questions is how to correctly wire this. The power will be running off the GFI outlet.

It sounds as if the cable going to the switch just requires a feed.

I am not sure how you intend to bring power to the gazebo from the main house, but basically you would wire both 12/2 cables to the #12 feed wire and wire it color for color; white to white, black to black, ground to ground.

The GFI would get wired to the LINE terminals only.

Please comment if you can add any details that might help.


Built wood vanity drawer deformed after painting! attached photos of the deformed drawer, I found out only after reassembling!

The cabinet itself, and 3 smaller drawers on the other side are all fine, but this one shocked me!
Basically, it is made of plywood, with 3 false sides made of Oak, I chose the higher quality plywood that looks nice to touch and just required light sanding.

I took weeks as I was planning, cutting, assembling, waiting for nice sunny day for  the painting (I used primer, then Rustoleum white gloss paint) - the process until painting took months, about 4 months from start! Maybe 3 months for the plywood of that particular drawer, so it's hard to believe it was humid inside..

I tried clamping the edge with a bar for 48 hours but it unfortunately did not keep the shape :(
It seems to be the plywood that is deformed, not the actual fake full wood panels..

What do I do now? any advice? Its so beautiful, almost ready to mount!

This is a design problem

That appears to be 3 oak pieces joined to a crossways piece (does not actually matter much if it's plywood or solid in that orientation.)

It will be a humidity indicator. At present, the face has swelled and caused the present curve. When the face shrinks, it will go back to straight, if it dries & shinks more than it was when glued (or screwed), the curve will reverse.

It's how wood behaves in varying humidity. Furniture with solid wood components is either designed to let it move, or suffers the consequences. If the oak is mounted with screws, remove them, then slot holes so the wood can move without forcing a curve into the part they mount to. If it's glued, you either live with it or rebuild (or at least break the glue bond and join with slotted screw holes.)


How to connect flexible tube to copper pipe Underneath the kitchen sink, the faucet assembly has a copper tube that used to connect to a flexible pipe. The two have become separated as shown below:

I have tried pushing the connector back onto the copper tube and it leaks only slowly.  How do I connect them together so that they don't leak at all?

FWIW, the brand is Price Pfister.

As requested, these links may help:

Exploded Parts Diagram
User Manual

Looking at these, and comparing to your photos, it looks like you may be missing a part that clamps the connector to the pipe. Good luck.


What is the cause of wooden flooring gaps? We have gaps in our wooden birch floors. Some quite large. We are told that the cause of this was due to nail spacing and inadequate glue. I'm baffled as to why nailing and glue would prevent hardwood floors from shrinking and staying shrunk. We live in CO and had the floors acclimatize for 30 days before installing. Are there reports/tests that show that floor shrinkage is caused by incorrect nail spacing and insufficient glue - I can't find any... seems to be caused by the manufacturer not drying the wood sufficiently before production.

The flooring was probably mis-milled.
Wood flooring has to be cut, dried, accumulated, fit, nailed, etc. perfectly or you’ll have big gaps.
Often the manufacturers point the finger at installers, when actually it’s their problem.
The way to check is to hold two boards up and push them together. If one slips through then it’s too loose a fit between the tongue and groove. There’s no amount of acclimation or nailing that can fix that.
We’ve had many gymnasiums floors removed and replaced because it doesn’t meet grade. (You can see the manufacturers cry when it’s chainsawed out of there.)
Follow the Western Woods Use Flooring guise (National guide).
Hint: test a zillion boards to make sure all the tongues fit tight in the grooves and doesn’t slip...even if you shake the board while in the groove.


Do I need to remove mould from plywood before treating? I have a shed base on piers topped with plywood that was finished last Winter and covered up to help protect from the elements.

However some water made it through (or general dampness of being covered) through the tarp material and has made the plywood grow a little black mould. The timber joists are fine though, I guess ply is a bit more porous.

I'm going to coat the joists and ply with crecote preservative to help prevent this happening again. Do I need to remove the mould before and if so how. Anything else I can do to prevent further mould - it won't be covered again so I think it was just due to lack of airflow.

Thanks in advance

Yes, you should remove the mold. It seeps into the wood and would prevent your sealers from doing their job to the fullest. Bleach is good for surface mold but it doesn't penetrate the surface. I've used white vinegar, one cup to 3 quarts water. Scrub the mixture on the wood and then spray off with water. Let the wood totally dry and follow the directions for your preservative. Good luck and stay safe out there.


How should I wire a switch/outlet combo to a split outlet if the feed is at the split outlet? What if my incoming source starts at the outlet I want to split (always on for the dishwasher, switched for the garbage disposal) and not in the switch/outlet combo? How would I wire that?
I read this and looked at the diagram on your site:

If you want to have power always on to a box that is downstream of a switch, you'll need to use 3-conductor cable between the switch and split the hot side of the outlet.
At the outlet, break off the tab on the hot side only between the top and bottom outlet. Wire the red conductor to one of the hot screws, the black conductor to the other one, and then the white to the other side of the outlet.
At the switch/outlet, you'll need to wire the incoming black wire to one of the hot screws, and the outgoing black wire (to the 3 condutor cable) to the other hot screw. The outgoing red wire (the one controlled by the switch) goes on the neutral side of the switch, and the incoming white wire gets wire-nutted together to the neutral side of the outlet along with the outgoing white wire (from the 3 conductor cable)
Be sure to ground all outlets and switches as well.

I think its image #6?

That description is OK, but you really only need to run 2-wire with ground romex up to the switch, not 3-wire. Split the hot side of the outlet as described. Use a wire nut to pigtail a short piece of wire from your source hot to the terminal of the receptacle that you want "always on" and also connect to the new black wire from the romex running to your switch. Connect the other end of your new black wire to one terminal of your new switch.

Remember, the switch just "makes" or "breaks" the hot.

Connect the new white wire from the romex to the other side of the switch. Permanently mark the white wire at the switch box with red or black permanent marker to identify it as a "switched hot". Connect the other end of the white wire from the romex to the hot terminal of the receptacle that you want switched (for the disposer). Permanently mark the white wire at the receptacle with red or black permanent marker to identify it as a "switched hot". Connect the source neutral to the receptacle and ground everything.


Cut sheet metal in half? I need to cut some stiff sheet metal for roofing trim and the problem is dividing larger sheets. For example, I might have a sheet that is 6 feet x 12" and I need to divide it in half. The problem is that my snips cut a little ways into the sheet, but soon they get stuck and I can't push them in any farther.

A book I have on sheet metal says that one side of the cut is supposed to "curl" away as I cut, making room for the shears and I am supposed to cut so that side is the narrow "waste" half. But in my case I am dividing a wide sheet, so there is no "waste" strip, both sides are wide.

I can see that if I was just trimming off half an inch, then it would peel away, but when both sides are 2-3 feet wide, that doesn't happen. So, how do I divide the sheet?

If you were doing a lot of freehand sheet metal work, I would recommend a nibbler (it takes little bites out of sheet metal) or set of powered shears with two cutting edges (they literally create a single thin strip of curled up waste material — my Milwaukee shears create a curled strip about 1/4” wide).

A band saw would be another option if you have one and it is large enough for the size of sheet metal strip you want.

A jig saw or sawzall with metal cutting blade and the sheet metal very well secured to an appropriate work surface might be the best diyer-friendly option if it is something you only need to do a couple of times and you already have one of those types of saws.


How to hang off of wide circular hole in concrete? I have a concrete wall with many 2-inch diameter, 1.5 inch deep, perfectly cylindrical holes on it. I’d like to hang some relatively lightweight (up to 10 lbs) decorative stuff off of these holes. What type of bolt can I use to secure an item to one of these holes?

I imagine there might be a type of bolt that expands outwards and secures itself to the walls of the cylindrical hole.

Appearance aside (perhaps your less than 10 lb items will cover the hanging point) plumbing test plugs come to mind. Exposed face commonly seen red, yellow and shiny galvanized steel. Two plates are squeezed together by a screw and cause a rubber part between to expand outward and grip the hole. Advantage being they are easily removed and no permanent damage/change to the wall.

If you don't mind an alteration to the wall of a more permanent nature, gluing 2" diameter discs of wood or some other substance you can easily put a screw into in the holes will make it easy to screw in whatever. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure that hockey pucks are a larger diameter than that. Yep, 3 inch diameter.


Zoned Forced Air System Runs 2.5X Upstairs vs. Downstairs I bought a house built in 2005, ~4100 sq. ft.
Reasonably insulated to code, as required in Chicago, IL.
I've got an upstairs thermostat and downstairs thermostat.  Both are Nest thermostats specifically, and I can track the daily run times.
Once we hit sub 30 degree days, I've noticed that the downstairs furnace will run for 6 hours but the upstairs furnace will run for like 13 hours, to keep everything at 68 degrees.
First thing, I noticed is that the upstairs thermostat is in the master bedroom and usually behind a closed door and the rest of the upstairs with open doors was a few degrees warmer due to better air circulation.
I adjusted our upstairs thermostat to sit at 65 degrees vs. 68 degrees downstairs to try to compensate for that.
Even with the changes,  I haven't seen the variation shrink too much.  The upstairs furnace just runs way way longer.
Is that typical in a bigger house like this?  I always thought "hot air rises" -- in our old townhouse the upstairs would be smoking hot, to the point we need to close a damper.
This house seems completely opposite.
Aside from a possible HUGE hole in a duct somewhere that feeds upstairs, is what I am seeing normal?
I think if I measure the duct heat upstairs vs. downstairs it should be close...?
Intuitively there is a LOT MORE DUCTWORK for that heat to make it's way upstairs from the basement. Does that typically dominate for heat loss vs. "hot air rising"?

What you are seeing is actually normal IMHO and as a result of the second law of thermodynamics.  Heat travels from hot things to cold things.
You are under the impression heat rises.  That is only true for AIR.  It is NOT true for solid objects.
I assume this is house-on-slab not house-on-crawlspace or house-on-basement.
Your downstairs is like a piece of melted cheese in a double-cheeseburger it is nice and toasty from the Earth and from the Sky.   On the bottom is concrete and soil and carpet which is really dense and makes a good insulator as heat does not travel quickly through it.  On the top is the ceiling and air space in between joists which is also a good insulator.  PLUS on top of that ceiling insulator you have the upstairs which you are heating to the same temp - so the heat from downstairs isn't going to travel through the downstairs ceiling to the upstairs because the upstairs is already at that same temp.  Then you have the walls which are insulated and they are close to the ground you likely have bushes and shrubbery and such that blocks some of the outside airflow around the structure, and you might have brick facing over part of it that insulates more, and you likely have less total window space.  And those windows might even be triple paned.
Now for your upstairs.  First I would bet you have more heat loss through the walls.  Second I would bet you have larger total window area and you might even have cheaper double paned windows.  And lastly your attic - even though you think it's insulated just how insulated are we talking?  If it is below freezing outside and you can go into your attic and the temp is above freezing then your attic insulation is allowing heat loss.
The last thing you should do for the upstairs is check the return air.  A big mistake people make with HVAC in residential settings is they pay a lot of attention to the hot air ducting FROM the furnace.  Well it does no good to blow hot air into a room if you don't have some way for the cold air in that room to exit, preferably straight into the return air duct of the furnace.  It's much better of course if you can suck that cold air out, which is done in commercial settings.


How can I rewire two separate light switches on different circuits to one? In my living room I have 2 light fixtures on opposite ends of the room (let's call it left and right; (the light switch for the left light is the one shown. The right switch is shown in the picture with the cat.) The right light is controlled by one switch on it's on circuit, the left light is controlled by a separate switch on a different circuit. Needless to say, this isn't ideal (I posted picture with one light on the other off, for clarification). If I'm turning the lights on/off I have to go to both ends of the room to do so. We have dimmers in the room and we have to dim them separately. I would like to tie both fixtures together and bring them onto the same circuit (or whatever needs to be done) so that if I turn the lights on/off on either side of the room both lights turn and or off. How can I go about doing this?

Shared on/off, separate dimming? Home automation (smart dimmers linked by a controller and a few simple programs) would probably be the easiest solution, and maybe the least expensive.


Will condensation form and be an issue on an aluminium duct venting water heater exhaust? I have built the unfinished chimney shown in the image below to get the exhaust for my neighbor's water heaters (which I believe are sealed combustion gas appliances, such as the Remeha Avanta water heater above the required height during a remodel.

The chimney will be enclosed and watertight. Both ducts will penetrate the chimney roof with a flat double-walled roof vent. I was planning on not insulating the chimney.
Could condensation form on these pipes and could that be of concern in the Dutch climate (that can range from -10 degrees celcius to +35 degrees celsius)?
The water heater one of these pipes is for is shown below. The fresh air is taken off the side of the apartment, only the exhaust is vented out the roof.

Combustion of hydrocarbons always produces water vapor. Air provides O2 oxygen and other stuff which combines with the CH chains to make CO2, H2O, and whatever else. When the heater operates there will always be water vapor present in the exhaust duct; whether or not it condenses to liquid depends on many factors. A significant factor is the efficiency of the heater: the more efficient the heater is at putting combustion heat into the domestic water the less heat remains in the exhaust gas. Exhaust gas heat warms the walls of the exhaust duct. If there's enough heat in the exhaust to warm the duct above the dew point of the exhaust then there will be very little condensation in the duct. But if the duct is cold, and/or the heater has high efficiency, it can get a fair trickle of condensate.
Where condensation is a concern there are two approaches. One is to run the duct horizontally with slope toward the outdoors. Any condensate in the pipe runs to the outdoors and drips out the end. The other approach is to slope the duct toward the indoors and provide a condensate drain. This is the approach used when the duct goes vertical as yours does.
I don't read a word of Dutch but I looked through the installation manual anyway for the water heater you linked. This text and illustration from page 54 mention cleaning a siphon and a condensate trap. It looks to me as if this heater is designed to receive condensate drain-back, and therefore you should assemble the exhaust duct with the expectation that it'll need to carry condensate back to the heater.

The installation section on exhaust is number 4.8. It describes arrangements using room air or outdoor air for combustion, duct sizing according to length, and I saw something in there about condensate too.


How can I hang a framed picture onto a wallpapered concrete wall without damaging the wall surface? I have a framed picture about two feet by three feet in size that weighs about one pound (not a sheet of paper). I want to hang it onto a wall that is of full-blown hard concrete and covered with paper wallpaper (not vinyl - just paper).

The default way would be to drill the concrete and insert an anchor but that would damage the wall surface.

Is there a way to hang such picture onto such wall without damaging the wall?

I would be tempted to try those removable  stick up hangers from 3M. They come in different sizes for different weights. They don't penetrate or leave a stain when you remove them.


Switching between 3 30a 120v loads I have one 30A 120V single phase circuit and three 30A 120V single phase loads.  How do I switch between the three, i.e one is on and the other two are off?

The 3 position switch Johnny pointed out is listed to UL 508 for industrial control devices, so it should be acceptable for switching some general-use receptacles around.  (You'd be creating a tiny industrial control panel under Article 409 of the NEC -- your average junction box + cover combo meets NEMA 1, and there are provisions in the Code for an industrial control panel that's protected by the upstream breaker.)


How do I recharge this pressure pump? The plumber is a notorious no show for days if not weeks and I would like some water pressure. Not to mention being self-sufficient.

Here is a photo of the pressure pump.

http://imgur.com/R3xkR6A

To borrow what User58220 said, I think part of your problem here is that you have the wrong pump for your application. This pump is designed to boost the incoming water pressure from a municipal water service. It requires a minimum of 10 psi to function correctly. The rule of thumb is 1 psi for every 2 feet of elevation, so you will need to elevate your tank at least 20 feet above the pump. If you can't, then hire a competent plumber to install the proper type of pump.

Provided you do have at least 10 psi, next you should check the controller. Hold the square button down until the display says Lo. Make a note of the number that appears after a few seconds. Press the square button twice. It will either display an error code or --. Consult the manual if you have an error.

The final thing to check is the pressure tank. Turn off the pump, turn off the water from the tank, and open (and leave open) a faucet to relieve the pressure. Then find the air stem (should look like the fill valve on a tire) and read the pressure. This number should be about 2 psi less than the Lo number you noted previously. If the pressure is incorrect, then let some air out or pump some air in until you are 2 psi below the Lo number.

If the tank leaks water out of the air stem when you try to take a pressure reading, then the pressure bladder in the tank is ruptured or water-logged. Replace the tank.


Planning an oversized deck we are planning on building an oversized deck 50 foot long, 18 foot wide, 9 foot high

Using  2x12x18 southern pine decking joist.

Planning on spacing  post 6 foot apart.

I’m looking for advice with design and materials to ensure a safe long lasting deck.

Thanks for any help.

Your local building codes will be the ultimate guide, and depending on your location, you'll likely need a permit and inspection as well.

This may help you with your estimating:  https://www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/dca6

Having just built a 16x12 deck ten feet off the ground, 50x18 would be lot of work and not cheap.


How to adapt caster wheel to tubular table leg? My kids destroyed one of their tennis table caster wheels. Parts of the wheel mount are stuck inside the leg. Is there a way to adapt another wheel? For instance, mounting the wheel externally? I don't need anything beautiful, just something more practical than having loose parts wandering on my garage.

Thanks!

If you have a right sized hole saw or a dowel you can shove in there, up to the screw then you can put on another caster on or the old caster if just its mounting was broken. If you don't have those, then a square peg in a round hole will do the same.

With those wood options it would be best to have pieces long enough to go past the screw above, so you can drill a hole for the screw to go through & be Support 1. Support 2 would be a metal plate at the bottom of the wood to shoulder on the leg's tube.

3rd option would be to use just a thicker metal plate on the bottom & fill the tube with washers the height of the caster's stem...if the caster has a hog ring or C clamp atop the stem, your top washer would need to be snug to the stem's diameter.

4th & easiest option is to get a new cup-mount caster. The cup just slides over the outside of the leg's tube & can be glued or drilled & screwed on.


How to fill a large gap between tile and shower tub to ensure waterproof gap I incorrectly tiled my bathroom walls, leaving a 3/8 inch gap between the subway tiles and the shower floor tub.

I have purchased some back rod roll to help with caulk fill.
Before I put all this together, I have a few questions:

Do i need to prepare anything before I install this rod?
There are two drainage grooves - I have read that tiles are actually not waterproof and they sweat. This sweat drains down behind the tiles and runs along the shower tub lip and out on these grooves. I dont want to jam up anything or restrict water flow with these rods. Should I leave a gap? I'm concerned with a gap that water will get into the drywall
I assume I should lay the rod before grouting..? Ot not?
I know I'm an idiot for leaving such a large gap. Actually for following wrong advice, i.e. for drainage - we has really bad mold. Am I good with above approach as I really dont want to pull all the tiles off and reinstall drywall?
Any other warnings/advice would be appreciated to make sure this doesn't leak into my lounge below me.

I think the plan is sound. The only think I would change is that I would use Caulk to glue "A" in (to the left site of "A"). This gives you double protection.

This kind of shit happens to everybody, don't worry.

Good Luck


Easy platform for a small metal frame pool Recently I have been thinking about purchasing a small metal frame pool, something simple that can be taken down during the fall/winter seasons.  The issue I have is my entire backyard is on a slight but noticeable slope.

Is it possible to just use sand bags and wood sheeting to build a temporary and removable platform to put the pool on ?

Part of our backyard is asphalted and attached to our drive way and leads to a garage.  I figured since we never park our car in the driveway any way we can use that asphalted area to stack some sandbags and lay wood sheeting over top so more level.

I'm really looking for a simple removable platform that we can use and then take down when we put the pool away.

Sand bags would be a good idea. I normally use railroad ties drive a piece of rebar through the tie into the ground and fill the area with beach sand (I live close to the ocean and sand is free). I would put a tarp down over the asphalt and the filled in area so it won’t wash out , I haven’t used plywood just a tarp it helped to extend the life of the liner. Some 25 years ago I used to take temp pools down but now I don’t a week and a half of vacuuming leaves out and the kids are in it in May even in Oregon they are nuts!


3 way switch mystery Hoping someone can help me figure out whatever it was was they did.  I recently rewired a three way switch be eliminating one switch altogether and using the other as a typical switch.  Everything seems to work, no breakers have blown.

I'm simply curious to know what was going on.

At the first switch, there was a white, a black, and a black.

At the light, there were two blacks.(!)  I know that sounds odd. One of the blacks was coming from the first switch and terminating at the light.  The other black started at the other terminal of the light, spliced into the black of a nearby bedroom outlet, and then traveled on to the other switch, where it spliced yet again into a switch, and some black heading to the main panel.

The white of the outlet mentioned above was also spliced into, and that white headed away to the service panel.

At the second switch, it was wired as such: a white on a terminal, a black from the service panel on a terminal, and a black coming from the light.

The best way I can describe this is there was black coming from two directions.  What made this set up really odd is when the second switch was switched "on", all of the lights on the circuit would dim/glow, sort of as if on half power.  A plumber once mentioned he thought there was a "shared neutral", where as an electrician once mentioned there might be power going on a neutral.

Anyway, it's now gone.  When was all of this wiring done? early 1900's. I'm just curious to know what was happening.

To add one more piece of information, someone added a second  breaker to this circuit in the mid 1900's.  Thus when the breaker was tripped at one end, it was never actually tripped througout the entire circuit until the second breaker was also tripped.  Maybe this shed some light on the so called shared neutral thing.

Now that the second switch is completely gone, each breaker handles its own unique circuit, the two circuits have no communication any longer.

Regarding the original light that had two blacks, I cut the black that was not coming from the switch, I labeled it white, and I joined it to another white on that particular circuit.  It now works as a single pole switch.

Sacrificed in all of this was the ability to have a three way switch, but I did not need one, it's not in a hallway, it controlled an exterior light that is rarely used.

Congratulations!  You just found a Carter 3-way!

This configuration switches each "side" of the lamp between hot and neutral, as depicted in the illustration below:

(source: Wtshymanski/Wikipedia)

However, due to the switch in the neutral wire, it was possible for the shell of the lampholder to be hot even if it was switched off, leading to a shock hazard!  As a result, this configuration was banned by the NEC and remains forbidden to this day.  You were correct in removing the Carter 3-way from service.

The second circuit feeding the Carter 3-way was also a rather egregrious Code violation (300.3(B)/310.10 if nothing else), but your work has cured it as well.  (While the current configuration isn't completely Code-conformant, you've gotten as close as you reasonably can without running new wire.)


Water Filters Before a Shallow Well Jet Pump? I have a cottage which has ridiculously rusty, hard water. Previously I asked about putting filters before or after a water softener.

My question here is, Can I put a filter, like an in-line rain-fresh filter, before the jet pump? e.g.

feed from well --> water filter --> pump --> softener --> tank

Not a good idea.  It will cause a pressure drop in the suction line, and as the filter plugs the resistance will increase.  You can end up cavitating the pump which will erode away the impeller.


Placed Fire Place Insert Wood Stove into Fire Place; how to minimize heat loss through former chimney damper opening? The chimney damper for our fireplace is the standard dimensions of 24" x 5.5".  I removed the metal damper when I bought the fire place insert wood stove so there is just the damper opening with said dimensions that the wood stove exhaust must go through to reach the chimney.

I was surprised to learn that there is no standardized "out of the box" black duct fitting or adapter or solution for the 6 or 8 inch diameter duct output from wood stoves.  The fire place store suggested squeezing the 6" round black duct into an ellipse to fit the 5.5" width opening of the former damper.

I cut some stone to fill in the rest of the gap in the damper opening but there are still small gaps that I tried to close the best I could with furnace cement.

After inserting the wood stove into the fireplace and connecting the exhaust black ducting to the hacked damping opening adapter, I lit a lighter near the wood stove (not lit) and found the flame still bending toward the chimney indicating air flow from indoors out through the damper opening through the chimney.  The damper opening is still leaky.  I know I'm not the first to convert a fireplace to fire place insert wood stove.  What am I missing here?  How do I seal the damper opening so only the exhaust from wood stove leaves through black duct in damper opening and not other air flow?

In the past I have used rock wool , some high efficient wood stoves use this in the fire box over the heat tubes so it can handle the heat. Pack enough to seal the flue. In my state a fresh air source is required for new stove installs, depending on the stove some times channeling through the chimney or coming in through an old ash clean out chute will work, other times a vent in the wall is required. I prefer if possible to duct the fresh air directly into the stove this way there are no drafts.


How do I lubricate plastic rollers for sliding closet doors? I just installed some new sliding closet doors, but unfortunately they're a bit squeaky/noisy when operating. They are "Reliabilt" doors from Lowes, the actual company that makes these is SGA. There's nothing in the instructions and nothing on their website about suggested maintenance/lubrication.

I'm not entirely sure what the rollers are made of, they're some kind of plastic or nylon rollers that fit in an extruded aluminum track.

What kind of lubricant can I use that won't break down the plastic, or gum it up over time from dust/etc?

Any dry silicon spray lube will be fine also.  Do not use and petroleum based lubes or WD40. Wet type lubes attract dirt and dust and get very messy. Same advise goes for door hinges.


Fixing a gap with silicone on shower base I recently discovered a problematic area in the shower base where the silicone peeled off and the gap was visible underneath the tiles.
Now I removed a bit more silicone left and right from the problematic spot and planning to put some new bathroom sealant on the gap.
Would that work ok?
Thanks

You have a good plan. Make sure the area is totally dry before applying the new sealer. Scrape the area with a single edge razor blade to remove all the old sealer and then wipe the area with some vinegar to remove any residue. Stuff some paper towel in the gap to make sure it's totally dry, then apply some quality silicone caulk to the gap. Check the rest of the tub for any other failed areas.


Water pump and pipe size for maximum water intake? Each floor is 12 feet in height.
I already have the pump (Centrifugal Regenerative Self Priming 1HP Peripheral Type, Self Priming - 180sec At 3m STATIC SUCTION LIFT) and would like to know which is the best location to install it for maximum water intake to the overhead tank. The water Supply is only available for a limited period everyday and the goal is to achieve maximum water to the overhead tank.
The Water supply line provides water from a bigger (8inch) main line but water pressure from it is not adequate to pump up water on top level. (Water pressure only enough to supply water to first floor and that too with reduced pressure.)
The water pipe from main supply to pump and from pump to overhead tank is 1/2 inches wide.

Questions:

1). Which position of the water pump in the above situation provide maximum water output to the overhead tank?

2). Will using thicker 1 inch pipe after pump (the input will remain 1/2 inch) make any difference to suck maximum water in?

To achieve the maximum flow keep your pump at ground level. With a 1/2" slightly pressurized intake it may help to put 3/4" out put to the water tank but much larger would probably be a waste of $.  Make sure to have water in the pump at all times the shaft seals are usually ceramic with no water they overheat and crack. This would be another reason to keep the pump at ground level since there is low water pressure it will be difficult for the pump to prime. If you do have pressure on the 2nd floor it may work ok there if the pump max head pressure cannot make it to the roof. If memory serves fresh water weighs .43 pounds per foot so you will need the pump to be able to push a minimum of 25 psi for any flow from ground level to the top of the tank. I have a firend that gets water from a spring he pumps the water ~65' up the hill to a large tank and he has right at 30 psi in his cabin.


replacement wood threshold insert for metal door I have some late 70's doors and one is missing a threshold insert (the adjustable wood kind), anybody know of where one could by just the "wood strip" that goes in and screws down (there is a metal piece that sticks up into the wood, though you can't see it)?

They have about 4 screws that go down into them?

Too late for the original poster, but for others who find this with the same issue - looks like someone has them now:

https://betterdoor.com/shop/exterior-door-sills-thresholds-replacement-parts/endura-composite-z-series-adjustable-cap/

https://betterdoor.com/shop/exterior-door-sills-thresholds-replacement-parts/endura-oak-adjustable-cap/


Is the full-height newel post for this oak railing structural? There is a railing between the kitchen and a sunken living room. I really dont think the post is structural since its a.)just an oak post b.)looks nailed in with finish nails. I just wanted a second opinion.

It's almost certainly not structural. Posts like that never are unless they've been installed by someone with no training or guidance. This seems to be a modern home, which makes it even more unlikely that it's structural. Depending on the home layout, there's a probably a beam or girder truss inside the corner passing over the post.

That said, I'm looking through a peephole from the other side of the internet. The question is not answerable with certainty. Get some local help and provide appropriate access to the attic or other areas of the building.


Do they make 24v transformers that have individual terminals for up to 4 thermostats? I have two ecobee 3 thermostats sharing a 24v transformer. I'm about to buy two more. Do they make 24v transformers that have separate pairs of terminals for each thermostat?
This is not a question (like the others on here) about how many thermostats a 24v transformer can support. I'm basically asking if either they make a unit specifically for supporting 4 sets of wires OR if there is is a cleaner alternative to twisting the wires together and using a wire nut, prior to connecting to the 24v transformer. This is really a question about keeping my wiring nice and neat.

If you want neat installation, either add a 4x4 steel junction box ($2) and hide the wire nuts in there, or openly mount any of a variety of terminal blocks sold at electronics supply houses such as Digi-Key, Mouser or Galco.

Make sure the terminal blocks are rated for several amps, and not merely telephone or ethernet junction blocks.

Smart Thermostats take very little power (traditional 'stats take none at all, being dumb switches). What takes power is what the thermostat operates: contactors and solenoid valves to engage furnace, blower, A/C etc.  That is your limiting factor, those vary, and I assume you know what you're doing. All that to say, a transformer powering more than 2 furnaces would be highly unusual, which is why one with 4 terminals on each output won't be found.


Where is the pilot light on my Carrier Infinity Series 48XT dual fuel hybrid furnace/Air Conditioner? THE ISSUE

We bought a new home and it came with this state-of-art system. The model number is #48XT-A6011530TP. Haven't had much luck finding information about this model or type of unit online.

I've got a box inside by the thermostat, in a closet, behind the return air filters, and a box outside about 4-foot square. They tell me that is called a "split unit".

QUESTIONS

1) Where is the pilot light on my Carrier 48XT Hybrid Furnace/Air Conditioner unit?

2) Why is there almost no information on this type of unit available online. There are all kinds of videos on YouTube about how to turn on a pilot light on different models of heaters, but not this one.

3) Is this some magical type of unit that all-of-a-sudden doesn't have a pilot light? If so, when did they start doing that? Is it controlled by a computer, like automobiles are now?

If for some reason I have an outdated understanding of how things work, the main thing I want to know is How do I turn on my hybrid furnace?

Any help is appreciated.

Pilot lights went out of style sometime in the 90s

Your furnace, being a modern-day unit, does not use a pilot for ignition.  Instead, what you have is most likely what's called a direct spark ignition (DSI) system that has the furnace board trigger a spark at the appropriate time to light the gas -- it indeed is a computer control system!

As to how you turn this thing on -- you should be able to turn on the serviceman's switch/disconnect and the thing will be ready and waiting for a call for heat.  Your system won't call all the time though, because it's a hybrid system with gas backing up a modulating heat pump -- this means that the gas will only kick in when the outdoor reset shuts down the heat pump (if it gets cold enough, the heat pump can't run), or the heat pump itself is inoperable.


How do I configure my duct dampers for summer and winter? My levers on my duct work for my furnace are not marked with a "WINTER", "SUMMER" How do I know which way it opened and closed?

Dampers are used to control which areas get more airflow. In the summer, you want more (cold) air going to the upper stories and less to the lower stories. This is due to the fact that warm air rises, and so the upper stories will naturally be warmer than the lower. In the winter, this is reversed, so you want more (warm) air going to the lower stories and less going to the upper.

How much to open or close the dampers is probably going to be a personal preference as well as depend on the layout of the house and ductwork, so you may need to experiment a bit.


Found Lath and Plaster wall under remodel drywall. Is it restorable? I'm currently in the process of restoring my 1906 home's bathroom.

At some point in the last 10-15 years the bathroom was given a cheap remodel. New plumbing and outlets were run and drywall was hung over the existing walls. At this point (or in the previous tile makeover I've now uncovered) many of the historic details seen in other units (such as picture rail and chair rail) were removed.

Yesterday I removed the builder-grade medicine cabinet added in the remodel. One thing lead to another, and I started digging into the top layer of drywall.

As you can see, at one point (1970s?) tiles were affixed to the wall. The tiles were removed, leaving the adhesive on the wall. Then (10-15 years ago) new drywall was put up over this surface. The lath and plaster was completely removed from some of the lower sections to run the plumbing, which gives us a view of the plaster cross section.

Ideally, I'd like to restore the plaster walls if possible. This would better match the look of the rest of the house, which does not contain any drywall. But I want to be certain that the wall I've found will produce that result.

So, my questions are:

What type of material is this wall where the tile was formerly attached? Is this the same "lath and plaster wall" found in the rest of the house, or a different material that was put up at some point in the past to facilitate tile?
Is this plaster suitable for being the surface wall of a room?
Once I finish removing the drywall, what steps must be taken to turn this rough plaster wall with tile adhesive into a paintable surface that matches the lath and plaster walls found in the rest of the house?
Should any additional steps be taken, given that these walls are in a bathroom?

The closeup looks like cement based backer board used to hold tile in wet/damp locations. If so, that is not original.

It would be very hard to restore to lathe/plaster throughout, especially if sections are missing. The transition points for repairs tend to crack and show lines. Also, wire mesh is used more than wood lath today. Finding a skilled plasterer will be a challenge.

The biggest difference in the appearance between old plaster and drywall is surface smoothness (unless you count cracks and slight waves in plaster). Almost all drywall has a paper surface that is very slightly textured when painted. To get a plaster-like look, you can skim coat the entire surface of drywall instead of just the joints. This is called a Level 5 finish. A discussion of levels of drywall finish can be found here.

Painting also has a role in appearance. Rollers often leave a very slight stippling. This can be overcome by using an additive that improves leveling. Spraying also gives a smoother finish than rolling or brushing.

Once all is done, you only see the surface, so unless this is an historic gem, you might consider top quality drywalling and finishing. If you are working in a damp location, special drywall types are available that are moisture resistant.


How do I find and dispose of the dead animal that's presumably in my ceiling? We're trying to track the origin of a very putrid smell in our condominium. We have a loft type home, which means two floors with a drywall ceiling between the first and second floor.

I first noticed a subtle odor in the kitchen, which is not an uncommon place to notice subtle odors. I checked the usual suspects:

Something in the bottom of the trash bin
Something rotting away behind an appliance
Something putrid stuck in the sink trap
Something rotting away in a cupboard

While we are guilty of all of the above and have removed the offending artifacts, the odor persists weeks later and grows in intensity. I realized that the odor seems the strongest from the stock room built under our stairway directly facing and adjacent to our kitchen, in which all ceiling joists for the downstairs level arrive unfinished.

I cleaned out the stockroom, expecting to find the remains of a mouse, but to my dismay there was only one partially dead insect that I quickly dispatched. The odor seems to be emanating from something existentially challenged somewhere in our ceiling.

I've done the following:

'sniff tested' the end of each joist where I can get access to do so. The smell seems to be coming from everywhere.
Used a flashlight to peer as far down each joist to joist channel as possible, I can't see anything that could be causing this.
Removed and replaced some lighting fixtures in in order to get a better view of what might be in the neighborhood
Sent a fish tape through every opening I can find hoping to reel in, or at least determine the location of the cause
Duct taped every opening between joists in the pantry area. One by one, eventually all.

The smell keeps getting worse.

What, beyond cutting holes in the ceiling all over my first floor can I do to pinpoint the source of this annoyance? Is there some sort of chemical test or something else I can get to narrow down the location and unfortunate source of this smell?

Oi! this reminds me of an experience I had about seven years ago.  Horrible smell with no obvious source.  Turned out that the cats had killed a rat and hidden it behind the books on the bookshelf.  Only noticed it because of an awesome slimy trail of maggots.

Anecdote aside, my recommendation with this particular occurrence is to wait it out: rodents tend to decompose in a relatively short period of time, and the smell will dissipate within another week.  If it persists you're dealing with a larger animal - say a full grown opossum or bigger - which leads to the really pertinent issue:  how did the offending critter get to where it got before it died?

As a self-respecting homeowner you should do whatever you can to prevent entry by pests into your home.  Sometimes this involves a thorough investigation by a professional but for the most part an observant individual can determine likely points of entry and fix them.

Most modern houses are covered by siding/doors/windows in every location with three major exceptions:  foundation line, crawlspace venting, and eaves.  All apertures can be sealed with some combination of welded wire, steel wool (coarse) and possibly adhesive by a determined homeowner.  The more aesthetically pleasing approaches are less simple and more costly, but there are lots of solutions out there.

As far as your storeroom goes - I recommend rocking->taping->mudding to close any access points for the critters, same with any unfinished space that is prone to pest invasion.

Hope you have a better olfactory experience in the near future!


Convert drop ceiling to drywall but with plumbing access My basement bathroom has drop ceiling currently and it's rather a large area with all plumbing there (from top 2 bathroom):

It is almost 3x5 feet area.

If I cover most with drywall and have access panel, how large of an access panel is needed?

OR should I have multiple access panel?
What is the right way to do this to hide the obvious access panel to make it somehow "flushed" to the ceiling?

I rather NOT put the drop ceiling there again.

Thanks.

No real need to access anything there, frame it in and cover it all with drywall and no access panels. The flexible pipe looks "iffy" and there appears to be no valves that would need access, so if there was a leak, an access panel would not help facilitate a repair, since the ceiling would be damaged by the leak, it would need replacement anyway.


Old house - hanging a new light fixture I have 1 red wire and a neutral wire attached to the fixture and the black wire do not attached to anything, how do I install a new light fixture with a black wire a white wire and the copper ground wire?

Thank you!

Rule # 1 - When making a replacement, don't touch anything else.
In this case, that means you only use the wires connected to the old fixture - white (neutral) and red (switched hot). Ignore the other white wires and the black wires.
Rule # 2 - In the US, Hot/Switched Hot can be ANY color except white (neutral), gray (neutral), green (ground), bare wire (ground).
In this case, that means red == black.
Rule # 3 - All grounds go together and can include metal boxes & conduit.
This one is a little tricky. If there are no ground wires then that should mean that your metal junction box is connected to metal conduit all the way back to the panel. If that's the case then you can ground the new fixture using a grounding screw.
The big question, of course, is whether or not the metal box is truly grounded. If you see metal conduit "everywhere" then that is a very good sign. If not, there are ways to test (essentially, if everything is wired correctly then "ground" == "metal box" to "hot" should read ~ 120V and "ground" == "metal box" to "neutral" should be almost no resistance).
End result:

White (new fixture) => white (ceiling)
Black (new fixture) => red (ceiling)
Bare ground (new fixture) => green/bare ground or metal box (ceiling)


What to use to flatten and prep wall before installing Schluter Kerdi membrane for tiling? I am remodeling a bathroom that was originally done with 1/2 inch drywall.  I opened-up the walls to move plumbing and electrical as required and then covered-up  those sections with new 1/2 inch drywall.

The shower and tub areas are going to have tile on the walls as well as the entire bathroom floor.  I've already done Ditra + tile in other rooms so no questions there.

Here's my problem:  Whoever built this room put on a skim coat that is, by the looks of it, about 1/8 of an inch thick in some areas.  So my new drywall is 1/8 thinner than the existing wall in some sections and a perfect match in others.

Now I have the problem of matching all of this up before installing the Kerdi membrane.

What type of mud do I use for this?  Is a general purpose compound good?  Remember that I will have to apply unmodified thinset over it in certain areas in order to adhere the Kerdi membrane.

I don't think I can skim coat with thinset.  I'm not good enough to achieve a smooth finish and it can't be sanded.  My best guess is that the solution is to skim coat the entire room, tape corners as needed and then thinset where the Kerdi membrane is applied.

Is a 1/8 skim coat strong enough to support the tiles?  I have no clue how well these layers will bond to each other.

Can I use a premixed mud compound or do I have to use a setting-type material?

Just to make sure I have the process straight:  First you skim coat the entire bathroom and then you go back and tape conventionally.  Correct?  Or is it the other way around?

I've done a bunch of tape-and-mud-ing and even fixing very large (2 foot) holes in other rooms.  I am generally comfortable with that aspect.  I just haven't skim-coated an entire room and much less applied tile on top of it.

I don't think you'll need anything other than regular joint compound here. I would make sure you buy the widest trowel you can afford and simply work as much compound as possible to level the wall. Your kerdi board placed over the top (when used with the proper thinset) will block the water from reaching this layer.


What is proper ratio of sand to portland cement to use for repairing a 30 yr old stone wall I have a 30 year  old  stone 12" high stone  wall that needs to be patched up.

There are small voids where stone has fallen out.

My question is what is the ratio of portland cement to sand used to set the new stones in the wall?

Is the ratio different for the mix used for the mortar between the
stones on the facade of the wall?
Thanks for your help

Since you asked it's 6 parts sand/1 part cement/1 part hydrated lime; it won't stick without the lime. Unless you absolutely need to use a specific sand you're much better off buying a bag of premixed mortar. You can take a piece of the existing mortar to a masonry yard and get a color matched dye if you need an invisible repair.

A helpful pneumonic device for mortar is "MaSoN wOrK." The capital letters represent the standard mixes in decreasing order of compressive strength.

Type M has the most cement and is used almost exclusively below grade.
Type S has the highest tensile strength and is used for outdoor load-bearing work such as retaining walls.
Type N, the 6:1:1 mix above, is used indoors and out for soft stone and brick work.
Type O is limited to non-bearing use indoors.
Type K isn't a thing anymore, outside of restorations. As you get to this end of the spectrum there's less cement and more lime so things are a sticky mess.

You'll find bags of Type S and Type N in the home center. You can use the same mixture all over the wall. I'd suggest N based on your description.


How can I attach a 1/8" strip of steel to MDF so that it stays secure forever for eternity? I have attached two 3/4" panels of MDF together, so the end result is a 1 1/2"-thick panel. I need to reinforce it so that it does not bow, so I thought of attaching a 1/8"x1 1/2"x6' strip of steel along the edge. Simple research has introduced me to Liquid Nails and epoxy glue, but I would like to also hear from the pros at SE.  I am not going to have any holes in the steel, so that eliminates screws. I am going to have to go the adhesive route with this one.

Edit:  I left out one of the most important details, which is exactly what I am doing with this MDF.  The double-layer MDF is not going to bear any load.  Instead, it's going to be used as a custom door I am building.  Since the MDF bows, I need to find a low-profile material that is even more rigid than the MDF.  At 1/8" thick, this steel strip is very rigid.  I just need to find a way to attach it so it holds as long as possible.

1) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'T' cross section. Cut a slot down the middle of the 81" edge of the panel to accommodate it. Dry fit, then assemble with construction adhesive. If desired, 'pin' the T-bar in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.

... or ...

2) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'U' cross section and 1.5" outside dimension. Use a router to rabbit each of side of the 81" edge so that the U-channel fits onto the edge. If desired, 'pin' the U-channel in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.

... or ...

3) Use an 81" length of metal with a 'U' cross section and 1.5" inside dimension. No routing necessary. If desired, 'pin' the U-channel in place with nails or screws through the surface of the door.


Bathroom fan fluctuates in power when using countdown timer switch I just installed this new fan in the bathroom: Utilitech Ventilation Fan 1.5-Sone 100-CFM White Bathroom Fan

However, if I use regular toggle switch, it works fine. But if I use countdown timer switch, Lutron Maestro Digital Countdown Lighting Timer specifically, it fluctuates in power like ON and OFF constantly.

I read the reviews of the fan product and someone mentioned the switch is not compatible since the fan is low wattage. I am not sure if I understand correctly. This exact same timer switch works with another fan model but not Utilitech.

Is there any specific configurations of the timer switch I should look for when buying one for the fan?

There are actually two problems, and they are related:
Low Power Fan
First I found a customer review on the Lowes web site that said:

I gave this only three stars as no where on packaging or instructions is there any note indicating this will not work with high efficiency bathroom fans. I spent many hours troubleshooting my Broan XB110L only to find during internet searches that this timer causes erratic fan operation. Actually in my experience this timer results in a fan that never reaches full speed and labors erratically at very low speeds.

which matches your problem pretty closely. And then I found this comment from a Home Depot customer:

Note: This timer requires a load of at least 40 watts to operate properly.
and that matches your problem exactly. Your fan is rated at 30W. Not clear if that is Fan + Light or just Fan. But even if it is just the fan, the LEDs are 13W so that would be a total of 43W - and likely less because the fan motor is probably listed at the high end of its usage (e.g., startup).

which led me to the definitive answer in the installation instructions:
40 Watt Minimum

Do not use where total load current is less than 0.3 A 40 W or greater than 5 A

which confirms the problem.
Not LED Compatible
I was at first a bit surprised at this, as the device seems quite up-to-date and even uses LEDs in its own design. But both Lowes and Home Depot list it as not LED compatible. Since your fan has LED lights, that's a no-go right there.
Why is there a minimum load? There are three ways to power a smart-switch/timer/motion-detector/etc.:

Neutral

Neutral requires a neutral wire. Many older homes don't have neutrals in the switch box, so it is a marketing advantage to have a product that doesn't require neutral - fewer returns due to "can't install it here". This timer does not use neutral.

Ground

Ground is a general "no, you can't do that" but it is allowed when properly designed but has a limited amount of current allowed for the "smarts" of the device. This timer does not use ground.

Leak through switched hot

This is the only option left! Works great with incandescent & halogen but does not work well with LEDs. And I suspect they have some tricks that just don't work well unless there is a large load so that the timer's own usage is "small" relative to the fan/light load.
Bottom line: SEND IT BACK
Recommendations
Look for a timer that says:

LED Compatible - That indicates it doesn't "leak current"
Requires Neutral - That tells you how it gets the necessary current


What is the proper order of layers for bathroom walls? Region: Santa Cruz, California, USA.

I'm gutting a bathroom down to the studs and would like a reminder on the proper order of layers for them to ensure that it's moisture-resistant.  As far as I know, it's usually:

1) Insulation.
2) Some sort of moisture barrier (a thick plastic)
3) Water-resistant drywall.

Is there anything else that's needed? Do I need to add a specific type of plastic? Do I need "backer board"?

Confirming we are talking about your bathroom, not the shower/tub area.

In honesty it doesn't matter.  Purple, green, regular drywall will all eventually act the same given moisture.  Does it taking more time really help?  Most building codes require purple/green drywall.  So put that up to pass inspection.  If you want to not have to worry about mold issues then you need to create a barrier.

Two heavy handed oil based primer coats are the most effective way to do this (Killz for example - tons of brands that can do this).  This is why you see 100 year old bathrooms in great shape.  The oil based paint creates a moisture barrier.  Paint whatever you want over top of it.  Depending on size of bathroom (smaller ones I do this for sure) I will either go oil based everywhere and for sure on all ceilings.

So to answer your question the steps are - insulation, drywall, oil primer, paint.  You don't put a plastic barrier behind drywall unless you are worried about moisture from the other side.


How should I build a base floor for a large summerhouse? Hi my question has 2 parts about piles and creating a subfloor.

I want to install a 4.8x4.8m (~16'x16') summerhouse; its existing floor is 24mm (~1") floor boards on 75x50mm (~"2x3") floor posts.

I don’t want a concrete base so I thought I could create my own piles using 110mm (~4.5") pipe (filled with postcrete and topped with damp-proof membrane) for the sub floor to rest on.

Is 110mm (~4.5") good enough or should I get 150mm (~6")? How deep should I go with the piles and at what spacing.

I then want to create a base frame for the summerhouse to go on and was thinking that as it already comes with a 75x50mm (~"2x3") floor I could create another one (joist running the opposite way) with 75x50mm (~"2x3") timbers.

Are these good enough timbers for the sub floor as I don’t want to go too high either? what spacing should I have between them?

Try this guide. step-by-step and easy to follow!  http://www.gardenbuildingsdirect.co.uk/blog/build-a-shed-base/


Marijuana smoke migrating to my condo! I just bought a condo which is a three-level townhouse and was built in 1980.

I am adjacent to my neighbor and share a common wall. My neighbor, an older couple, smoke weed frequently and do not air their home.

The smoke gets to my side and it is gotten so bad that I have left my condo and live elsewhere. Are there any products out there like drywalls or sealer that could prevent the smoke from coming to my side? How effective are the options available? I am just thinking about redoing my walls by bricks, thicker dry walls, waterproofing, etc.

I would consider adding a positive pressure to your living space with the fresh air being pulled from a wall on the opposite side of the house. I have installed this type of fan in several multi-family dwellings to keep smoke stink out. The ones I have used are quite small squirrel-cage blowers that operate with a pressure switch; I think it was based on 2 or 3” water column.

The slight positive pressure pushes air out through light fixtures, switches and outlets.  The only downside I remember: because these are small, if you open a window or door for long you lose the advantage of the positive pressure. I did a handful and put each one in a wall next to an existing outlet so no new circuits needed to be run.

I don’t know if you can really seal things but the positive pressure fan worked. I had 1 customer have me install them in 3 different houses; the last one was a single-family home but she said she liked the fresh air (that house had no make up air electric baseboards) and it made her feel better, so those little positive-pressure fans do work.


How should I handle reflooring the bathroom of an old house? We are updating the bathroom in our old house and after removing the old tile and concrete we found that it was sitting on 3/4" subfloor planks, and some of them are not in the best shape. We are planning to use Ditra or Ditra XL depending on the needed thickness for the underlayment. We have 1/4" porcelain tile (size 12"x23"). The gap between the old subfloor planks and the hardwood at the transition point is 1-1/2".
Questions:

The planks have quite large gaps between them in some spots, will this be a problem?
How thick should the total subfloor under Ditra and Ditra XL be? Would the old 3/4" planks with another 3/4" ply (at least) be enough?
What would be the best option to get to the same level as hardwood (1-1/2")?

For example: add 3/4" ply + 1/4" ply + 1/8" Ditra + 1/4" tile
Or: add 3/4" ply + 5/16" Ditra XL + 1/4" tile
Both options will be ~ 1/8" shy from making a perfect transition. Maybe there are better options?

Should we glue (carpenter's glue) and screw additional plywood or will screws (grid pattern 4"x4") be enough?

Photos of the floor:

Two things here.

If you don't want squeaks...   First you should remove plywood and add blocking to the joists.   The swaying of the joists, even slight allows the screws to move and eventually squeaks.   Second you need to glue the first layer of plywood down.

Your calculations are off - kind of by a lot - AND you are committing poor design thoughts at the beginning.

you should have a threshold in the bathroom between the hardwood and the tile
this threshold should sit higher than both - 1/4"
the reasoning is a flood should stay in the bathroom
yes you are building a mini pool!
based on your joists I would start with 3/4" plywood
Big Issue - no calculation for the thinset.   With bigger tiles this can get to be over 1/4".   Rather significant.   You will be troweling and back buttering.
Another Big Issue - no calculation for the thinset for the Ditra install!!!  This will be at least 1/8"
So with 3/4" plywood, ditra, and tile you are at 1.5" conservatively... possibly over.
so this threshold needs to be at least 1" so that it may hide the fact that your tile might be slightly higher than the wood.
if back buttering the tile, you are probably going to need to put down less thinset with your trowel (under spec).


how to route cable in wall This is probably the most amateurish question here :)

I always lived in brick houses where i had conduits to pass cables thru. life was easy.

Now i'm on a rented wood panel(?) house. And i want to pass a network cable from the top floor to the bottom floor, on a wall that is shared with the neighbor.

I am hopping that simply opening up the outlet panels and pushing in the cable with some weight from the top floor i will be able to get it on the outlet in the bottom as it is almost liner... but i'm sure i won't be that lucky.

what am i bound to find in the way? i am almost sure there will be something on the second floor height blocking my way...  and any way to overcome obstacles that do not involve cutting holes in the wall?

edit: found this question but i don't think this applies as i don't have a crawl space...

It's going to depend on the type of framing used. Balloon and platform framing are the two common methods.

Platform
If you're dealing with platform framing, you're going to have to drill through quite a bit to go between floors.  First you'll hit the bottom plate of the upper wall, followed by the decking (subfloor). Next you'll hit a double top plate, which once you're through you'll be in the lower wall.  Since it's a common wall, you'll also likely have to deal with blocking and insulation.
Balloon
If it's a balloon framed structure, you're lucky. You'll likely only encounter blocking, bracing, and insulation. However, these elements are a bit less predictable, so you'll have to take things as they come.
Fireblocking & Draftstopping
Any time you create a passageway for fire or gases to pass between floors, you'll have to provide adequate fireblocking and/or draftstopping. This could be as minimal as some fire resistant spray foam, but you'll have to check with your local government to determine what's required.


Parallel (2) 20 amp 220 12 ga wires into one 30 amp 220 Breaker OK? I am attempting to replace 2 ovens that currently each have their own dedicated 20 amp 220v circuits. (12 ga wire)

My new modern GE double oven requires a single 30 amp, 220 circuit. (10 ga wire)

Since they are dedicated wires going to the same place, and my new 30 amp 220 breaker accepts (2) 12 ga wires, can't I just wire these in parallel? Red to Red, Black to Black, White to White? Two 12 ga should theoretically be good up to 40 amps, and I am only going to ask for 30 amps tops.

I know it would be better to pull 50' of dedicated 10 ga cable but it would be very difficult with my home layout. Unless one of the paralleled 12 ga wires spontaneously broke by itself I can't see any danger such as the full load of 30 amp attempting to be carried by the single 12 ga wire?

Or,,,, should I stick with the 4 breakers I currently have, (each 20 amp), and just join them at the connection to the oven... That way each breaker is protecting a single 12ga wire and would trip if any one of them went individually over 20 amps. (it may sound strange but the current configuration has 4 separate 20 amp breakers,,, not 2 legs ganged/joined together.)

I hope that makes sense.. Thanks anyone for your help!!!

Herb

In a very simple answer NO. NEC forbids paralleling conductors less than 1/0. Article 310.10 (H)(1)


Mold remediation in crawlspace Just bought a 25 year old home that has improperly installed insulation in the crawlspace. The insulation is fiberglass rolls with a paper backing, and is installed with the paper facing down, toward the ground. When the home inspector and I explored the crawlspace, we could see green mold growing on the joists where we pulled the vapor barrier aside to peek up into the cavity.

The source of moisture seems to be a concrete pad that butts against the foundation and collects water from the shed that sits atop it. I plan to remove that shed and the concrete pad before doing work with the insulation.

I intend to replace the insulation with either the same type or a plastic vapor barrier cut to fit between the joists and un-faced insulation instead. The new insulation will be installed with the vapor barrier facing the living space.

My question is about the mold: once the old insulation is pulled out of the crawlspace, how should the joists and flooring be cleaned to inhibit further mold development? Is there a recommended time period to leave the joists exposed to dry? I will be doing this in the Fall when we are likely to have dry weather, and outside temps will be closer to inside.

I've found some good guides about this, so I'll share them here. I won't be accepting this answer, so if anyone else has something to add, please do.

The US EPA publishes a guide on mold remediation in commercial buildings, much of which seems applicable to residential buildings also. The guide recommends three methods to clean wood surfaces smaller than 100 square feet: wet vacuum if the area is still wet, damp wipe with detergent, and HEPA vacuum when dry.

The guide also provides advice on what protective equipment is required for cleanups of varying sizes.

The Washington State Department of Health publishes a guide that provides much of the same information as the EPA guide, but has an additional recommendation about treating surfaces with a cleaner containing borate to inhibit future mold growth.

Any remediation activities should be performed after the source of moisture is identified and removed.

I suppose the best advice is probably to consult a reputable remediation professional, as molds are allergenic and some are toxic, even after they are dead. The resources I've found suggest hiring a pro for cleanups of any area larger than 10 square feet. If performing the remediation yourself, take all necessary precautions to protect your health and to limit exposure to building occupants, and of course don't rely solely on this answer for advice.


How to update a switch loop to a 3 way switch So the previous owners of this house decided to put two switches in a switch loop with two lights in the hallway.  The house is old, so it was probably the "fastest" way to get two switches on the hallway lights, but because they are in a switch loop with the lights, both switches must be on for the lights to be on.

Currently the circuit is as follows:

Panel to a junction. One of the cables goes off to power, the other to lights (that have the same issue...). The branch in question goes to the two hallway lights in series, and at the first switch there's a hot white with common black.  Then they ran 12-3 cable to another switch, capped the live wire (white) with the red, and included this other switch into the series (and just wired the 3rd wire to nothing...it literally runs from ground on one switch to ground on another).

I'm trying to imagine the best way to fix this and having trouble. I would want the common fixed to both switches, so do I need to drop 12-3 cable from the first lamp to the switch box, or is there something faster I can do?

Edit:  Here's a mockup I quickly put together in Sketchup.  The red dots are wire-nuts, the circular things are the lights, and the switches are self explanatory:

At this point, I think the proper thing to do would just be run a new circuit (with ground), and wire it properly as a 3-way switch.  Would also be easier than messing around with this thing any longer.

This is the proper way to wire the three-way circuit with the switches and lights in the positions you describe. The conventions and wire colors are for the U.S.A.

Note the black tape (or paint) on the white wires that are used as switched hot instead of neutral.

The orange lines represent fault grounding wires. These are usually omitted from an instructional wiring diagram, but your 12/3 was wired strangely so I want to show proper grounding.

A 12/2 cable actually has three conductors in it, two with their own insulation (in different colors), and one bare wire that is only insulated from the world by the cable sheath. Similarly a 12/3 cable has four conductors, three with color-coded insulation and one bare. The bare wires are to be used as fault ground and only as fault ground. Never allow them to carry current during normal operation.

If your cables have these bare wires, connect them all together and also connect them to everything that looks like it can conduct electricity. If the junction boxes are metal, connect them. If the lamps have grounding screws, connect them. Just ground everything you can.

You can make an exception for any box that holds a switch; since the frame of the switch is metal and is screwed to the box, the grounding screw on the switch will suffice. Also, in some jurisdictions, ceiling lights do not need to be grounded.

Note -- the advice in this answer is from a stranger on the internet who is not a licensed electrician and who has not read the applicable ordinances for your location.


Why won't my outdoor motion detector shut off? I have had 2 outdoor motion detectors on each side of the front door for approximately 5 years. They worked fine. Suddenly one of them refuses to go off. The other one continues to work fine. I tried a different bulb, and turning it off and then on again, but it hasn't helped.

Since it worked before, and the other one is still working, I am thinking it's not the wiring. Any thoughts? Do sensors go bad?

If you have had any lightning in the area it can leave the sensor in the always on mode. Some sensors I have used require a 5 minute powered off cycle to reset them. A power surge,spike or blip can also fry the electronics. I also had a unit that came on even in the day light. It turned out to be a mudwasp nest covering the photosensor.


How do I take apart a wooden retaining wall? I have a retaining wall, sorta. It acts as a divider between homes rather than retain anything. Built the same way as one, with 6x6 boards, spikes, all that jazz. No deadmen, of course.

I need to take it apart and down while keeping the boards intact (I am going to reuse them in furniture).

I tried just putting a bar between two and prying them apart but after a lot of work I got them separated by about 1/4". There's too many to do that way.

Update:

I'll try the sawzall approach this weekend and come back. Thanks for the suggestions!

If you have access to a sawz-all also called a Tiger saw or reciprocating saw you can cut the spikes. Pry the timbers one at a time to get a little separation. Using the longest metal cutting saw blades you can get in the 14 tooth per inch range saw thru the spike. The longer blade will allow you to cut the spike if it is on the far side of the timber. Depending on what type of spike was used you may be looking at using several packs of blades. The process may get tougher near the bottom if they anchored the timbers to the ground with rebar.


Should I use liquid water proofing membrane over a standard shower mud pan? I'm getting ready to finish waterproofing my new shower before tiling it and am wondering if I should waterproof the mud pan on the floor? My construction methods are as follows from bottom to top:

Wooden subfloor
pre-sloped mud pan (with tar paper & metal lathe between the subfloor)
pvc shower pan liner 6" up the studs & over curb
Concrete board on walls down to bottom of liner
Final ~1/2-3/4" mortar bed over the liner and mortared shower curb

I'm going to paint a few layers of liquid waterproofing membrane over the concrete board walls (and should I do the ceiling since I'll be tiling that as well?). Does it matter if I also waterproof the mud floor? I know it's not necessary since that's what the liner is for, but would it hurt anything? I'm mainly interested if there's a concern for hydrostatic pressure buildup between the impermeable PVC liner and the liquid membrane if water were to get in between them somehow.

Any shower I have done in the past 5 years has been done with both the PVC liner over a sloped bed and the liquid applied membrane. I coat all the corners and the drain 1 coat, then paint 2 coats over everything up to the splash line of about 5 1/2 feet. No need to do the ceiling.

If you have not done it already, let me suggest this.... I use a modified thin set and fiberglass tape to cover all the joints before applying the liquid membrane. It strengthens the joints where the cement boards meet. Also bridges gaps for the membrane.


Are gaps above and below framing members a concern? I recently hired a framing crew to frame a new house. After it was done, I commissioned an independent review. The reviewer described some of the work as "shoddy," and pointed out a lot of gaps, particularly between king and jack studs and the plates. I took photos and added his notes to a few studs he pointed out. He also pointed out that the roof beams weren't birdstoothed, as the plans directed, but were instead set onto the headers and strapped to scrap lumber. In one place, the beams are strapped to a split 2x4.

Would it be appropriate to ask the framers to fix some of this work? I don't work in construction, but even as someone outside of the industry I'm looking at this and it just doesn't look good.

Edit: Here is an album showing many additional photos: https://imgur.com/a/WRBO1is

I always wonder “what else is wrong” when there are so many obvious errors.

You’ve noted the obvious problems, but you’ve probably missed some major items that are not so obvious:

In Picture #1 you’ve noted the gap issue, but missed the “double spliced sole plate”. (Splices are to be a minimum of 4’ apart, unless at intersection of a wall.)
In Picture #1 it’s difficult to see, but the subfloor is not nailed properly. (Nailing should be a maximum of 12” apart in the field and 6”” apart at the edges.)
In Picture #2 a twist strap is not an acceptable connector when it’s improperly nailed into a piece of blocking. (The length of the nails need to be long enough to penetrate into the beam...going through the piece of blocking reduces it too much.)
In Picture #2 I don’t understand your comment about the “pocket”, but if the beam requires two trimmers then it needs a connector too. (That whole assembly is questionable.)
In Picture #3 the gaps you circled are acceptable , but I doubt TV he double top plate is nailed together properly. It requires 16d nails at 8” on center (at a minimum) and I see no nails poking through the lower plate. 16d nails are long enough that they’ll show through the lower plate. If it isn’t nailed properly it does not meet code in your area (Alaska) and could fail under any seismic load.
In Picture #4 the framing to too “wonky” to be acceptable, including the gap you indicate at the top of the double jack studs. If the contractor argues that there are other jack studs next to them “so it doesn’t matter”. Let them know that the load is transferred to the foundation at the double jacks...not at random locations.
In Picture #5 the trimmer (jack studs) is not acceptable. It does not provide adequate bearing for that size beam. In addition the 3/4” plywood studs are not acceptable (actually they could produce structural calculations to prove me wrong, but I doubt it would be acceptable in your location for seismic activity.) Also, you’d need to glue the sheathing to the studs and I doubt there’s adequate nailing ...12” on center in field and 6” on center along edges.

I’d love to see more pictures to determine if floor sheathing in Picture #5 is adequate, roof sheathing is nailed properly, etc. Usually bad framing extends to anchor bolts, anchor bolt washers, holddowns, etc.

I agree with Greg Hill and “upvoted” his answer that you must get these things fixed before you proceed or you’ll be paying the cost to replace anything installed later.


Toilet bowl cleaner container distorts flushing action I placed a toilet bowl cleaner container (jar) into the tank per the instructions. Normally, previously, when flushed the water would completely empty the bowl. Now it fills up and drains but does not do the final emptying. It does drain down to the normal level after a bit. I did not expect there to be a change in the functionality of flushing.
I have adjusted the level in the tank so that there is the maximum fill. The photo shows where the overflow point is. It now fills completely to the overflow. This has not made the flush work as it did before.
I assume the volume of the jar has reduced the amount of water that is contained in the tank and that a solution involves increasing the amount that can be held even with the jar inside the tank.

I am looking for a change that will restore the previous flushing results and keeping the new cleaner.

Step one - does removing the jar solve the problem?
Step two - can the jar be placed differently in the tank, and if so,
does the problem recur?

It's probably not the volume, and it may simply be the case that this type of toilet cleaner is not compatible with the hydraulics of your toilet tank (which can be quite sophisticated in modern low-flush toilets, so adding an obstacle that might not have bothered an old 5 gallons-per-flush toilet may simply no longer be an option - in which case you need to clean the toilet another way...)


Submersible Well Pump Quits Under High Demand Our well is about 70 - 80 feet deep and has a 19 year old 1/2 HP Gould submersible pump feeding our pressure tank. Under normal household usage (washing, showering, etc) we do not see any problems however on high demand such as watering the lawn, adding to the swim pool, the system will run well for a while then stop with no flow. If I then turn off the power to the pump, wait 5 minutes or so and turn the power back on, the system will run again but  will shut down again if I do not lessen the demand.
Several handymen have suggested ".....a pump problem" but it seems to me like the water in the well simply can not keep up with the high flow demand rate.
My questions: 1. Does this really sound like a pump problem 2. Are there other things to look at or test to determine what is really causing this high demand problem.

On a submersible pump, the motor is cooled by the water.  If the pump starts sucking air, water is no longer flowing around the motor, the motor overheats.

A well in operation produces a cone of depression in the surface of the water level in the aquifer.  If the aquifer is very permiable, the cone is shallow.  If you have a restricted aquifer the cone is deep.  Pump long enough, and you have a say 30 foot diameter zone that the entire aquifer is drained out, with a few inches at the bottom streaming into the well.  Stop pumping and the aquifer levels out.

I suspect that what is happening is this:

You start to pump.
After a while, the pump is exposed.
It warms up, and it's thermal protection shuts off.
You reset it.
The aquifer starts to fill.
Repeat.

That the 5 minute break is enough for normal operations to resume means that the aquiver is almost capable of keeping up with the pump.

If I'm right, there is nothing wrong with your pump other than it's too big for your well.

Test for this:

Start with having ALL the water in the house shut off.  Someone taking a shower or flushing a toilet will mess up your numbers.

A:  When you run a garden hose wide open, how long does it take for the pump to cut out.  This is going to be a murky number because of the pressure tank.  If you can isolate the pressure tank it will be easier.  Lets call this time Wi  for wide open isolated tank.

B:  While this is happening, time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket.  With a typical garden hose it will be about 25-50 seconds.  This is Ti

C:  The pump cuts off, and the water flow stops.  This is Pi the time from when you turned on.

Give the well a rest.

D: Start it up again, but close the garden hose tap enough to increase Ti by about 20%  So if it was 25 seconds before, it now takes 30 seconds.

If my theory is correct, your well may be happy with this new value and will pump all day.  Record the new time it takes for pump shut off.

Repeat the rest, and check, adjusting the flow to increase the time by roughly 20% increments until the pump keeps running/

Let's suppose your final  time was 75 seconds.  75 seconds/5 gallons = 15 s/gal.  Invert that to get 4 gal/minute.

Go to your local well supply store and ask for a 4 gpm flow restrictor.

Install that somewhere between the pump and the pressure tank.  Do it in a way that you can take it apart later.  You may have to swap it for a 3.5 or a 3.

If you can't isolate the pressure tank, it gets a bit messier.

Start by waiting for the tank to reach full pressure and for the pump to shut off.
Turn off power to the well.
Go outside, and open your tap, timing how long it takes to empty the pressure tank.  You can use any arbitrary cut off point.  You just want to be consistent.

You want to be able to recognize when the pump goes off.  This time is subtracted from the running time of the pump in all the tests above.

Whenever you start a new test, let the pump come up to equilibrium with the tank before you do any timing.  If it takes 3 minutes for the tank to drain, then wait three minutes after you turn the pump on to time your 5 gallon fill.  You may want to do several 5 gallon fills to see if you are getting consistent timing.

In operation you won't notice the flow restrictor.  The pressure tank will still hold a shower or two of water at normal pressure.  (Assuming you don't have one of these tiny ones) If you use water long enough the well will cut in, and you will get only the 4 gpm from the well, instead of the 6-8 gpm from the pressure tank.  Note that most showers now are 3 gpm.  A toilet may be 3-5 gpm for a minute depending on how old it is.

You will notice it watering the lawn.  You will get several minutes of high pressure watering, the tank will drop to some lower value that 4 gpm can keep up with.  This will mean you have to adjust your sprinkler after a few minutes, or use lower flow sprinklers.


How do I measure for a table top inside a (slightly irregular) nook/alcove? I have a little nook about 2' x 5'. It's surrounded by wall on three sides. I want to put a table top in there. But I know the area isn't exactly square. It's supposed to be, but it's not.

How do I measure the exact dimensions w/ correct angles of the corners so that the table top fits perfectly into the space?

One of the simpler ways to do this is with a framing square (a good tool to have on hand).

You need to measure the top at the height where the tabletop will be. Mount cleats (long strips of wood running horizontally) to hold up the top along the three walls. Cut the two side walls a bit short so the cleats do not show once the tabletop is in place.

Now it's time to measure for the top.

Start with the back wall. Measure its length and draw on a piece of paper. It doesn't need to be full size or strictly to scale. Put the corner of the framing square into each of the back corners. Choose the corner that allows you to get the square's corner into the wall corner. Measure the length of the tabletop along the side wall. Be sure you indicate the measurement at the actual point of the edge of the tabletop, not the end of the cleat, which may be shorter.

Have the 24" leg pointing outward. There will be a gap between the end of the square furthest from the back wall and the side wall at the outside edge of the planned top. Measure that gap and transfer it to your drawing.

Flip the square and do the same thing for the other corner. But this time the end furthest from the back wall may have a similar gap to its side wall. Or it may be square. Or it may have a gap at the back wall. Whatever it is, measure the length and the gap. Transfer the measurements to the drawing.

With measurements of the back edge, the side edges and the gaps, you can lay out the exact dimensions on your tabletop material. While theoretically you do not need to measure the front edge, it couldn't hurt and it will serve as a check to indicate that your other measurements are correct. If you carefully record the measurements, the angles will take care of themselves.

If you want to be super sure, transfer the measurements to a cardboard pattern and fit into the space on the cleats. You can fine tune the pattern before cutting the final material.


How high of a structure can I build for growing hops I would like to grow hops for home brewing and can't find any information on how high of an agricultural structure I can build without a permit, the people I am getting the rhizomes from say "16-18ft", Can I build something that high legaly? Safely? Would 2x4s anchored into the ground and set up in a tripod be smart?

This is probably a Local Authority Having Jurisdiction (LAHJ) question - ie, your town or county or (heaven help you if subject to) homeowners association.

In my town agricultural structures (they intend barns and silos but say agricultural structures..) are exempt from height restrictions (I suppose the FAA would horn in if somebody built a silo more than 200 feet tall, and make them put a light on top of it. Hasn't been an issue yet.)

They can be built safely. I don't know if you can built one safely, only you know that, or you will eventually, anyway.

For what it's worth, one of the simplest to build structures is also pretty functional - the "flagpole/maypole" approach where you put up a central pole and circle it with plants. Trying to replicate the commercial hopyard high-wire grid is a lot more complicated. Tettnang, Saaz, Halletaur, Fuggles here (I managed to kill a Cascade, somehow...)

Pulleys on the eaves of a two story house with the plants out in front can also work with no real structure building called for.