How can I cut cement sewer line to add cleanout? I have a home built in 1950 with a cement sewer line. I have had to have
the line cleared twice in the last two years. The last time they sent a
camera down the line and the line seems root free with no obvious broken
sections. The  line had a few slightly bumpy sections but I suspect not
too bad considering the age. I would like to install a cleanout so I don't
have to pull the toilet next time it backs up. I dug the hole
and found the pipe to be what I think is 5" cement type. I need
to know if there are rubber sleeves for this size of pipe so I can add
the "Y" ABS fittings also what is the best way to cut the cement so as to
get a clean edge?

Concrete chainsaws can be rented.  They would do all the cutting from above and simplify the excavation.  Industrial sized hydraulic ones cut open doorways in poured concrete walls.

Another option would be a flexible saddle tap..,which installs by drilling the concrete line with the proper coring bit.  Fernco makes a wide line of drain fittings


How do I plumb this kitchen sink to stop the leak and improve drainage I'm trying to stop this setup from leaking and improve the drainage.
The sink is a bit low, and the basket strainer drops a few inches.  Below that, I have a tailpiece with a dishwasher connection, and a horizontal waste line followed by an elbow into what is called a NY Trap.
The issues are that:
a) the horizontal piece seems to leak -- possibly fro the right side compression fitting, and from the tailpiece-horizontal connection.
b) the horizontal piece actually has a negative slope.  This causes it to be something like a second p trap , and when full, the water seems to back up a bit into the sink until the air bubble gets out.  This seems like it would increase the chances of having leaks.
I haven't been able to find a good way to plumb this -- only tailpieces with dishwasher attachements are too long  to make the next pipe go horizontal.  Also can't seem to get a good seal between the tailpiece and the horizontal  piece.
What should I do to stop the leaks?
(Note: water in tub was there from before -- previous horizontal piece corroded so badly that it actually started leaking at the turn.)

try setting it up like this.  you will have to trim the dishwasher feed tail pipe a bit (be sure to bring it up high like @DMoores pictures to keep the sink from draining into the dishwasher.


Brand new stove burners won't light I have a brand new Samsung NX58H5600 series free-standing gas range with five stovetop burners. The unique oval-shaped center burner works without issue.

But none of the four "normal" burners will light. I see a spark at each burner and smell gas when I try to get the burners to light, but nothing happens.

I've tried waiting for several seconds for any of these four burners to light, but they never do. Am I missing something? Is there a trick, or perhaps the installers failed to do something here? I understand that obstructions in the gas line could cause an issue, or perhaps a faulty gas valve, but I thought that seemed odd since this is brand new.

Although there's a bit of debris on the stovetop as seen in the photos, that only happened just now as I captured these photos and dropped something near the stove. It was perfectly clean as I've been trying to get it working over the past several days, which makes it seem odd a gas line would already be obstructed by gunk.

My KitchenAid (just took it apart for cleaning, so this is fresh in my mind) looks nearly identical (except the oval burner - but instead it has a 2-section round burner) with the empty section underneath, metal part with teeth on top and burner cap on top. Without everything in place you get sparks & gas but not ignition. When I got my current cooktop it was a Sears outlet special (incredible deal) but turned out to be missing one of the caps (they grabbed the parts off another, so no problem) so those caps may be missing or sitting in a box somewhere. They look something like this:

On a mid-to-high end cooktop, you will typically find that each burner will be a slightly different size (physical dimensions and BTU), so you have to make sure the caps are correct - if they are not correct then they will not stay on very well and the burner will either not light at all or not burn correctly.


Covering junction boxes with drywall I have a customer wanting me to drywall the basement ceiling which has junction boxes... I can not drywall over junction boxes correct? And should recommend she has a drop ceiling put in?

You are correct, the junction boxes must remain accessible.  The NEC 314.29 prohibits covering up boxes such that you'd need to remove "part of the building" to access the wires inside.  The drywall is considered "part of the building."
You can move or extend them so the boxes are flush with the drywall when you're finished, so you can access the wiring by removing the cover.
With a drop ceiling, opening a ceiling tile for access is not considered "removing" part of the building, so you can have junction boxes above the drop ceiling.

314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures to Be Accessible.
Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole
enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained
in them can be rendered accessible without removing any part of the building or, in underground circuits, without
excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or other substance that
is to be used to establish the finished grade


Is an electrical blank (or anything you have to screw off) an acceptable access panel? Never installed an access panel that wasn't a lid or door.  If we have to screw it off is it code for an access panel?

See other question for example: What can I use for a very small access panel?

Yes, it is acceptable; you just need access. However, you do need to make sure that the thing that it covers is to code as well.

For example, if you have a standard box, you can splice inside of it and put a blank cover on it. You can't, however, just have a splice behind drywall with a hole that is covered by a blank plate.


Outlet in Kitchen Not Working Haven't seen my exact question answered on here so forgive me if already has been.

Here's my issue - there are 3 outlets around my kitchen counter. The first is a GCFI outlet that I'm assuming has the other 2 chained two it. It works fine. The next one works fine too. The last one however does not.

I checked the wires on the middle one and everything seems to look good there. There is power coming to the outlet obviously (from the GCFI outlet). The white and black wire that should be going to the last outlet (that doesn't work) has power in it too.

When I check the wires out of the outlet that doesn't work for power, there's nothing. It's the oddest thing. I don't know where else the wire coming out of the middle outlet would go. All other outlets in the kitchen and even around the kitchen work fine. I guess I could check the outlet in the other room and see if it's somehow chained in the series. Not sure why it would be though.

Any ideas/things I could try? It's just odd.

It sounds like you have 2 outlets on one circuit (GFCI + 2nd on load terminals from GFCI) and 1 outlet that is on an entirely different circuit. So there are two issues:

Where does "outlet 2" chain to?

There are a few ways to figure this out. The simplest might be to push the TEST button on the GFCI. That should turn off the GFCI (obviously) and outlet 2. Assuming it does, then go around the house and see if you can find another outlet (or possibly even a light - that would be strange but nothing is impossible) that no longer works. You should find something, somewhere. Then RESET the GFCI to make sure you found the right "problem".

Where is "outlet 3" coming from?

First check the rest of the house (bathrooms, garage, circuit breaker panel) for any other GFCIs. If you find any, reset them and see if that solves the problem.

Also, obviously, check for any regular (as opposed to GFCI or AFCI) breakers that have tripped or fuses that have blown. If you find one, that is likely to be the source of the problem - and hopefully easy to fix.

If all else fails, then you may have a bad connection going to outlet 3 from someplace else, without anything else having failed. Then you have a few choices. You can either get wire tracing tools or just methodically check every outlet for backstabs or loose wires until you find the problem. Which may take a while.


Branching off multiple horizontal pipe/conduit runs? I have to run electrical (EMT), network (schedule 40), and compressed air (Rapidair) lines along the walls of my shop. I'm doing this by putting up vertical sections of Unistrut, and attaching the the various conduits to those. You can see how I've begun:

The problem is that if I try to drop conduit down from that junction box, it will interfere with the air and network lines immediately beneath it. I can't just rearrange the stack because no matter what, drops from two of the three lines will interfere.

What's the typical solution to this? Is there some kind of offset mounting? I suppose a bracket that sticks out perpendicularly from the wall would work, but I figured this is a common scenario. What's usually done in commercial installations?

Given that the conduit will be out from the wall owing to the Unistrut, I would put a curve on the end of the conduit, or an offset conduit.  Like these.

The purple conduit curves up at the very end, and enters either an LB/LL/LR conduit body, or an EMT pull elbow.  Both have lids which allow access for pulling.  You never drag wire around this corner; you remove the lid and do two separate pulls.

The LB or LL/LR conduit bodies put the long end into the box. An LB conduit body has a door on top where it might interfere with the second conduit run.  An LL or LR conduit body will have a door on the front for easier access at the expense of slightly harder pulling.

The aqua conduit uses an EMT offset coupler to lift the EMT above the other conduits. Then it does an S-curve to get flush to the wall.

Another way is to use a "tee" conduit body on the main conduit.

Do this within 24" of the junction box.  You can't splice in a conduit body*, but you can run the wires around the T to the nearby junction box, and splice there.  If it's <24", these extra wires in the main do not count toward conduit derate (310.15(B)(3)), but do count toward conduit fill (358.22, which you know about).

* For conduit bodies matching conduit reasonably sized for the wires therein.  If the conduit body is outlandishly large, you can do the same cubic-inch calculations you would do on a junction box, if it is labeled for cubic inches.  But it wastes the capacity of the connecting conduit if you do.


Why did my hot water stop? I have a Rinnai RL94 tankless water heater. Today something went wrong and now I have no more hot water.

The machine is not showing any kind of error code like it has in the past when things went wrong, it's still on and (from appearances) seems to be working correctly.  I have gas (gas stove works), and I have (cold) water.

What could be causing my lack of hot water?

The user manual for your unit can be found here. According to the document the following are possible when no codes are displayed:

Clean inlet water supply filter.
On new installations ensure hot and
cold water lines are not reversed.
Check for bleed over. Isolate unit from building by turning off cold water line to building. Isolate the circulating system if present. Open your pressure relief valve; if water is flowing, there is bleed over in your plumbing.
Ensure you have at least the minimum flow rate required to fire unit.
Ensure turbine spins freely.
Measure the resistance of the water flow control sensor.
Check for DC shorts at components.

In short, the more likely cause for a unit that's worked before is a lack of flow; either the device isn't getting enough from a clogged filter, or it's not detecting the flow from a failed turbine.
If you can't get anything to work on the controller (set temperature, etc), then it's also possible the power connection has failed or that the controller itself has failed and needs to be replaced.


Is there any alternate of conventional Air Conditioner? Is there any alternate of conventional Air Conditioner, which are costly and increasing green house effect?

Geothermal Heat pumps are more efficent than a traditional Air Conditioner/Heat Pump - if they are possible/practical/cheaper depends on your circumstances.

Simpler alternatives are opening the windows, a house fan, swamp coolers - depends on how hot/humid it gets


Can cold bond be connected to ground rod? I am updating the main breaker box and want to sure everything is done properly according to the NEC. Can I run one ground wire (4) from the panel to the grounding rod and then another wire (4) from the grounding rod to the cold water pipe. Or, do I need to run a separate wire from the main panel to each independently? Rod is 5/8" and service will be 200 amp. Thank you in advance.

In the 2014 NEC handbook there is an exhibit 250.22 that shows this case. There is only 1 wire coming from the electrode to the panel. I would have said this would not be code compliant but it is clearly shown that the wire from the grounding electrode can run to the pipe saving a bunch of wire in some cases. Good Question!


Can I use epoxy grout on tiled shower and bathroom floors? I'm considering white grout for bathroom shower walls (the floor will be covered with a shower tub). Wanting to avoid problems with graying, mold and mildew in the shower and sink back-splash area, I thought I could grout those two areas with epoxy grout.

Is white epoxy grout a good idea for shower?

Another, more unlikely idea is to grout the floor tiles with white epoxy grout. I fear that the traffic and usage will discolor it anyway. Can you give some advice on that?

A lot of people like to tell horror stories of epoxy grout and over the years its uses has become a bit cloudy. However, epoxide resin based grouts are specifically formulated to resist chemical attack and to provide a durable, abrasion resistant waterproof finish that is hygienic and impervious.

The cured grout does not transfer taints to foodstuffs, permit the entry of bacteria, or dirt and is easily maintained in a sterile condition. With this in mind it makes a perfect food counter grout.

As for use in a shower base it is perfectly acceptable to use and in some cases preferred over cement based grouts as it does not allow water to penetrate.

As for staining and discoloring these will happen in a lot of situations it really depends on the quality of your water and what minerals it has in it. Over time they will tend to leech on any surface that has water coming into contact with it. Even plastic nozzles will do it. However most surface cleaners will remove such stains very easily as long as they are not left for extended periods to build up. I should also point out these stains wont appear over night. They can take months and or years so its not really something concern yourself with hugely.


Blocking gaps in loft from the inside We have heard scratching in the loft and I have caught two mice. The loft is boarded out pretty much fully and insulated beneath the boarding so it is impossible for me to get to the underneath and I can only put traps down, but I want to prevent anything getting in.
I can check for small holes where visible, I understand they can be tiny like a pencil size and the loft is not exactly tidily finished so that is also going to be impossible. Any thoughts on making mouse free zone?
I also notice that the walls at each end of the roof (adjoining the houses in terrace row) there is then the timber roof but a fair sized gap between the brick and wood - what is best to fill this gap? Lots of wire wool and some form of adhesive? I can't get to the outside as no ladder tall enough so need to try and do this from inside.

Repellants may work here to get a mouse free zone.  If you have a friend with a cat ask them to give you a shoebox of used cat litter from the litter box and tell them to make sure to put as much of the litter the cat has pe ed on in the box.  That is very effective.  Other repellants are peppermint oil, cinnamon, cloves and apple cider vinegar.


Mounting a monitor arms clamp on an IKEA desk, what can I use to distribute the load? I have this IKEA desk which I use for my computer. It currently holds two 27" monitors.
The monitors are too low for my eyesight, so I bought this two-monitor arms to hold them up and free some space underneath.
I was reading a bit about how strong the desk is, and it looks like the desk is likely too weak for the weight to be put on one 5cm x 5cm spot on the desk, due to the wooden panel's structure:

So I need something to distribute the load across a larger surface of the desk. Probably something that's tough enough to actually distribute the load as opposed to something weak that will bend and just pass the load on the spot.
I'm not very experienced with DIY projects, any idea what I could use?
(I'm in London, UK, if it helps)

I used two 7 by 7 inch piece of wood (1 top, 1 bottom ) and this works fine


Is my "two room, two switch, four lights" diagram correct? I have four lights altogether in two rooms that I want to power with one service. Each room has a SPST switch that will turn on two lighting fixtures in that room. I want to be able to turn the lights on in each room without having to worry if the other switch in the other room is on or not, so I do NOT want a three way switch setup.

I am also concerned with having to wire grounds in all my resistors as well. Do I need to, or is just wiring lead/neutrals going to work? I did not think it was necessary so my diagram does not have grounds included. However, my Romex is 14/2, so if I have to, the option is there.

I have been researching many videos/tutorials for this schematic, but can not find any that match what I am trying to do. I have also looked for some related answers here on Electrical Engineering, but could not find any that match. From what I know about parallel wiring, I believe I have this schematic correct, but I just need to make sure. Measure twice, cut once.

Yes, your diagram is correct. It will achieve what you described.

You should always connect the ground, it is a safety measure. While it may not appear to do anything during normal operation, it's presence covers many failure cases that have been discovered the hard way - death by electrocution, house burning down, etc.

You should also absolutely check your local electrical codes and regulations for how to correctly do an installation, there are many things that are not obvious or intuitive. In the USA, "NFPA 70" is the name of the code book. There are also many laws that cover who is allowed to do this kind of work, inspections, and etc.


How do I disconnect a garbage disposal wall switch? How do I eliminate a wall switch to the garbage disposal?
I’m getting new countertops, sink and backsplash.The new garbage disposal will be operated with an air switch.
When tiling the backsplash, can I have the wall switch for the garbage disposal removed and have the wall patched?

It depends on  the wiring in the switch box. More than likely there are two (or more) sets of wires coming into the box and disconnecting and removing the switch still   means it is junction box. By code; a junction box Can not be covered or buried in the wall.  The box must have a cover that can be removed for access to the wires.
You would have to   remove both/all wires all the way back to their source, which would  mean opening walls because the wires are stapled to the studs (unless they are run in conduit) and they may originate some distance from the box.
The air switch Eliminates the need for the wall switch but the power to the outlet for the disposal is still needed, and it is probably coming from the box that houses the switch.


Since moving into a new house we are constantly ill including both my dogs. Is this house the cause? We moved into a brand new council house just under 2 years ago in the UK and since then we have had nothing but problems with our health. I am disabled so already had health issues but they have gotten worse. We had gas leaks but when council checked they said it was fine even though I could smell gas so after 3 days of checks I called the emergency gas out who had to condemn my boiler and meter as yes we had 6 major leaks. This house is all plaster board so there are holes in the walls where I have gotten stuck and punctured the walls with my power chair because I do not have enough room to maneuver around. We have constant headaches stomachs pains runny poo the list goes on. Both my dogs are ill 1 is fitting all the time and the other one has constant stomach problems and can't eat. He just lies there shaking and has the runs. The vets are stumped and it's costing me a fortune in bills. We have since found out our house was the one where all the machinery was kept for month's while the built them all so diesel was split everywhere. Our yard where my dogs go floods when it rains so they are constantly walking in it. We are all stressed and I suffer from mental health issues and anxiety which are all been made worse by this. Could our house be making us all more ill or am I just crazy. Please help with advice. Thank you

Thank you for your replies yes we have a carbon monoxide detector it is an electric one which is,wired into the house the same as our fire alarms. Tested it today and that works.
These houses were built on what used to be garages that they knocked down. The council did not put any vents in the houses and the window are very small. I have a wetroom which I cannot use because it floods all downstairs out so for nearly 2 years i haven't been able to run it.  We have has the council out because i vould smell sewerage in the house but all they did was lift the drain flush the toilet and said it's running fine and they couldn't smell anything.  Under our garden is the septic tank for 20 houses. My neighbour washes her yard down and sweeps all the water under the fence and onto out yard
We have wooden floors down not carpet because of my powerchair.
I swear this house in some way is killing us.

Sick building syndrome is common and comes in many forms. Here’s an article that explains it better:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indoor_air_quality

Also, it could be glue “outgassing”.

Formaldehyde (in glue) out-gasses for several months after it it is made into building materials. Products like particle board in countertops, OSB board in underlayment, etc. are likely items that can out-gas. See here:

https://rarediseases.org/rare-diseases/formaldehyde-poisoning/

You can have your house tested or there are home air tests you can do yourself.


House electric not working I have a home from the 1850s. Mixed knob and tube with parts that are updated romex. I lost power to 1/3 of the rooms. Power is coming in from the outside to box, from box to breakers, and out from each breaker. Have tested each outlet and fixture in the house and those that work are obviously hot and those that are not are receiving any electric. Didn't finish my electrical map when we moved in so not sure how many breakers the trouble lies on. Have check all GFCIs and that is not the issue. Any advice? Guidance?

Many homes of this time frame had very few individual circuits and as you have found a mix of old and new wiring. With a large section not working it may be as simple as 1 conductor at a junction has failed. Tracing this may take quite a bit of time and or special equipment. I use a Greenlee CS 8000 circuit tracer it has a self powered transmitter that you can trace the wires through the walls and will locate the failure point. These are fairly expensive but you may be able to find a used one or factory second at a reasonable price but a tool like this may be a good one to have for future problems also. The CS 8000 works on both live circuits and dead. Other than that it will take tracing the wires back and the failure point could be in a wall or enclosed space the cs8000 will pinpoint it within a few inches.


What should I do about a hole close to a plug that is too wide? I used spacking to fill a hole that is like really wide, but not that lengthy.  I painted it, then put more spacking on the hole. The hole is still noticeable. So like if I just keep putting more spacking, will it sooner or later look noramlish?

Muralo's Spackle™ shrinks as it dries. If you keep applying thin layers and letting them dry, you will eventually achieve a flat surface. If the Spackle is proud of the surrounding surface you should be able to sand it flat.


Repurposing outdoor LED security floodlights for an indoor sconce I am trying to create a very bright wall sconce using two LED security floodlights. I have disassembled the floodlights so I could remove them from the very bulky, heavy duty outdoor metal packaging. I wish to disable the photosensitive/motion switch. The light/motion sensor has two red wires coming out of it that lead into a circuit board. If I disconnect those two red wires from the motion/light sensor and then connect them to each other, will I bypass the photo sensor and enable the light to be turned on and off using a wall switch? Thank you. Charlie

Maybe.  A lot of LED floods actually use a 12V motion sensor as they are half the price of a 120V sensor.  What's unclear is whether the motion sensor switches lamp current, or if it just gives a pilot signal to the circuit board.  I suppose you could try it.

However in your haste to remove bulky, heavy metal "packaging", I hope you didn't remove the essential heat sinks.  If so, you'll need to get some data sheets on your LEDs or comparables and then do some learning about how to craft heat sinks.  The efficacy of the heat sink is what's important, the LED doesn't care what it looks like... if it looks like a stylish sconce, that's fine.


Blue LED always on with led light strip The blue leds on my led light strip started acting weird just recently.  For some reason, the blue leds are always on.  When changing colors, the blue led is on, when powering off the strip with the remote, the blue leds stay on.  There's no way to turn them off.

Here's how it's connected, I'm not much of an expert when it comes to things like this.

I've heard that there was a solution where you could press the Fade 7 button on the ir remote when the strip is turned off.  You're supposed to get a flash of white.  But I never received any results from doing that.

Is this a hardware problem or is this a problem with the programming of the strip's controller.

You will need a ohmmeter. Disconnect the IR Controller (the white box with white wires). If you check the the voltage drop (in the connector of the white wire) between the Positive (+) and the different wires. If you find that they all respond to commands from the remote... except for the port for the blue wire (which controls the blue light), then the problem might be with the remote or the receiver. Again, if the "blue port" always reads 12VDC (despite trying to turn it off), then the problem is with either the remote or the receiver (and not the strip).

However if it does turn on and off upon command, then there must be a short in the strip or connectors (powering the blue wires).

If you look carefully along the strip you might be able to see where the short is (often looks like a burned/discolored spot (or a discolored LED). If you bought the non-waterproof strip, then you might find some debris or dried soda or something on the strip. Or if you have the waterproof strip, you might see a crack in it where humidity has collected and is causing a short between + and B.

If everything seems to be looking okay, then you could get some short pieces of wire (strip the insulation off of both ends) and insert them into the connector- making sure to only connect one wire to each port- and perhaps diagnose which wire is connected to the Blue lights by connecting one wire at a time... then two wires at a time... and (if necessary) three wire combos. Unfortunately, this may not be a fruitful piece of information, because it seems that the problem is with the strip or one of the LEDs anyway, and if you don't see any obvious faults then there's not much you can do figure out where the issue is on the strip.

So of course, if you have no idea where the fault lies (just on the strip somewhere) you'll have to cut out the bad section by cutting the strip in half. One half of the strip should be okay... then you cut the bad half in half... and just walk-it-down until you're satisfied. Then you can reconnect some of the lengths worth keeping.


Need help identifying ground screw I am installing a chandelier and there is no ground wire in the metal junction box, but there is a screw with a copper wire already running to it. The wire runs up through the box.

Is this the ground screw? Why is there a copper wire already connected? Should I disconnect and connect the copper wire from my chandelier?

Those bare copper wires are the safety ground wires. The ground wire from the light needs to connect in with those bare copper wires.

The best way to wire it in would be to free the two wires that are there now and use a wire nut to join the two bare wires, the one from the light and an additional short pigtail. The other end of the pigtail would go under that box grounding screw. The pigtail should be either a bare copper wire or a green insulated length of wire. It should be the same gauge as those already in the box.


How do I install an electrical outlet on a live circuit? In my dorm room closet, there is a junction box with a blank plate (no outlet). Inside there are three wirenuts (hot, neutral, ground).

I know it is generally unsafe to do any work on a live circuit, so I will see if I can set the circuit breaker. If I cannot, is there a safe(ish) way to perform this operation?

There is a reason they put a blank over that box. They do not normally put outlets in a closet, as cords plugged into them tend to get buried in junk if close to the floor or a shelf, creating a potential overheating and fire hazard.  Under no circumstances should you attempt to wire an outlet to these wires hot. It is never a good idea, even if you knew what you were doing. SO DON'T!!!!


is it legal to have the air intake (for heater and ac) coming from outside in CA? Our apt. building has the heater and ac air intake outside (collecting air from our driveway) in stead of coming from inside. is this legal?

Yes it is actually required for the combustion air. As for as the make up air or fresh air intake most newer homes do need them because the homes are sealed so tight that the build up of Co2 inside (from breathing) can reach unhealthy levels.
As far as the location that is not as tightly regulated so the person installing the system puts them as close to the system as possible to save $.


Service Feed Split box Recently purchased land that had a meter pole with a mobile home server feed on the meter pole. I built a 10x10 shop and added a 200a Square D HOM3060M200PCVP. It's WAY oversized for what I need. I recently had a 16'x28' "shell house" build (outside complete, inside is studs). I had the regional service provider out (Oncor) and he told me to feed the new house with 2/0 triplex through the shop box. As far as I know, I can't add feed through or pass through lugs to the existing box.

I can replace the shop box with a smaller (fewer breakers) one and put the old one in the house, But what I want is a split box to take the 4/0 service feed and split one to the shop, the other to the house. I would like to mount the split box on the outside of the shop, but inside is okay. Main issue is the 4/0 service has been cut to the shop box. There is not much room, but I can put it inside between the floor and the new box.

My issue is, I can't find a triplex split box for 4/0 wire. Service to shop was about 60'. Shop to house will be about 50'. Shop box was mounted upside down for the feed coming in from the floor. If the existing Square-D will let me add a pass though, I have room to loop the cable back out the floor and to the house.

Anyone know how I can get service to the house without spending a a ton of money?

If allowed in your jurisdiction, I'd go with a class 320 service. You could power the shop and the house off the same meter base.   Both panels would be considered the "main panel" so no need for a 4 wire service.   I just did this with my sons house that I'm doing most of the wiring on.   I also have a class 320 (320 amps) to my 2 200 amp panels in my house.   It's a practical solution, depending upon the exact layout.

Here is a link to the meter base I bought for my sons house:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KM7LZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cheap alternative to cutting boards I need a cutting board for my leather project. The ones you can buy at the hobby store are ridiculously expensive the bigger board is the more insane goes the price. I dont believe the material of which these boards are made contributes to their prices so much (it is comparable to sheet steel, come on). So I think there must be a cheaper alternative to those cutting boards. If there is one, what is it?

Cutting boards serve two purposes: to keep you from cutting into your bench top, and to keep from dulling your cutting tools. The second reason is the kicker!  You could use a sheet of metal, but your blades would need constant resharpening.

All that being said, I would go to your local Walmart, Target, Fred Meyer, etc and buy a cheap cutting board made for kitchen use.  They work well, and are way less expensive than the ones you'll find at Tandy Leather...


How to remove/replace the cartridge for this Delta Monitor shower faucet? Can anyone identify this Delta shower faucet model?

I'm trying to replace the cartridge, but I'm having trouble getting the handle off. The hot/cold cap pops off and there is a Philips head screw, but that doesn't relate to the handle assembly.

There doesn't seem to be a set screw on the side of the assembly or anything like that.

Well I discovered that the model i had was a Delta 1500 series Monitor faucet. Through internet searches I found a Delta conversion kit. It upgrades your 1500 series to the newer 1700 series. Part # RP29405. It comes with a cartridge, new springs and gaskets, bonnet nut, sleeve, shower head w/chrome neck, and complete 1700 series handle assembly. Everything is chrome. It turns out that the 1500 series uses the universal valve so the 1700 series cartridge fits in it.

A couple of tips to using the conversion kit. First it comes with 2 sets of gaskets that sit in the back of the valve housing. Use the thicker ones. I used the skinnier ones because they were the same size as the old ones I removed, but it still leaked after I screwed the bonnet nut on. I finally tried the thicker gasket (the thicker ones are connected to each other) and it sealed it right up. I believe the 1700 series cartridge is slightly shorter than the old 1500 cartridge and thus why the thicker gasket was needed. Second tip is the new shower head might not fit on your old neck. Mine didn't and I wasn't in the mood to change that out just yet, so I have chrome handle and back plate with the brass/gold shower head and tub spout. I have both pieces, but I'll save that for another day. Right now the shower is back to working with full pressure hot and cold. Now I just need to replace the water heater elements and I'm back.

If you have a 1500 series faucet and want to upgrade to the 1700 series. All you really need is a 1700 series cartridge and a 1700 series handle assembly. If you can find the handle assembly separate locally or on CL or something you can make the conversion much cheaper possibly. I ordered the conversion kit from Amazon + the chrome tub spout with pull down shower activator for $128 shipped, 2 day Amazon prime. Not too bad. Hope this helps someone down the road.

Sorry for the lack of pictures. I was fighting this thing in low light and no help. The instructions that came with the kit didn't help much.


Wire in two lights to a switch plus a fan to a switch when power is coming in between the lights without using 14-3 wire I am redoing some work in my bathroom. I have a hot wire running between two lights with the switch outside one of the lights. How do I wire it with 14-2 wire without running the power source to one of the lights first? I also must use this same power source for a fan where the hot goes into the fan and then down to the switch.

They make products specifically for that problem.  You wire hot, neutral and ground to every location (i.e. 14/2 wire) and the switch, lamp controller and fan controller uses digital signaling to send the on/off command over the 14/2 or wirelessly.  Some can also be controlled by your smartphone etc.


How can I repair this damage to the walls in my garage? The walls in my garage look terrible, they are ripped at the bottom all around the entire garage. I have no idea what caused this. What's the best way to fix something like this? I've also got foam insulation oozing out all over the place beneath the tears.

Steven and I were typing at the same time, I've explained and elaborated a bit more FWIW. Neither of us really needs the points :)

It appears the wallboard was cut a bit too long during installation and it was forced into place, causing some pieces to spall off. In removing the spalled pieces, the paper was further torn. Ideally, you want a small gap here so any water on the concrete does not wick up into the wallboard. As long as this area does not get wet, it's nothing to worry about.

It's difficult to completely remove polyurethane foam from concrete. Scrape off as much as you can, then hit it with a wire brush mounted on a drill or angle grinder. You can level off the spalled areas with joint compound, then paint for a clean neat appearance.

Other than being unsightly, it's not really hurting anything. Remediation would be pretty low on my to do list.


Vertical float switch for tethered float sump pump? I have a sump pump in my basement that has a tethered float switch.  The sump is not deep enough for the switch to turn on so I have to go down there and turn it on manually every time it rains hard.  If I put a vertical float switch with a piggyback plug/switch will it turn on the sump pump?

Try this fix, shorten the tether so the float will turn on/off quicker, or replace the pump with a one that has a vertical mounted float switch. I got rid of my tethered float switch pumps for ones with the vertical switch. They work great with just a short rise in water level.


Securing heavy steel shelving unit (sitting on floor) to walls (earthquake prep) I'm doing earthquake preparations. I want to secure two large, heavy, freestanding shelving units that sit on the garage floor to the adjacent walls.
The shelves are pretty thick steel (with particle board shelves), so they're very heavy and large--guessing about 7-feet tall and about 7 feet long when assembled. About 20 inches deep. (The unit sits about 2-3 inches from the wall because of a protruding foundation that runs the entire periphery of the garage along the floor.)
We live in a condo apartment building with thicker drywall than I'm used to seeing and also steel 2x4s. I don't trust the 2x's alone to secure the units and I'm not sure about the drywall.
That said, my thought is to use a vertical 10" length of plumbers tape in two places, wrapping over the steel rim of the top shelf (between frame and wooden shelf), and secure each end of the tape to the drywall with a heavy-duty anchor, one above the shelf frame and one below, plus washers between screw heads and tape. (I'm NOT planning to anchor into the steel framing, just the drywall.)
**So two questions...

I'm I trusting the drywall too much here? Should I be anchoring to the metal framing?

If my plan is good enough, What size and kind of anchors would you recommend to attach the tape to the drywall...would molly bolts be enough or would you suggest using toggle bolts?

Apologies for the long question. I think you may need that level of detail.
Thank you!
Bill

I'm not an engineer, but I've built and destroyed a great many things in nearly half a century of living. Here's what I'd do.

Fasten a continuous 2x6 to the wall behind the top of the shelving units. It should extend past each unit to the nearest stud, and it should be fastened to each available stud with at least two fine-thread construction screws.
Secure each upright in the shelving units to the 2x6 with 5/16" eye bolts and a loop of 3/16" chain. Use threaded chain links to close the deal. They don't need to be tight. In an earthquake everything's moving somewhat anyway.

Plan view:
 _^_______________^_______________^______________^_____  <-- screw locations
|______________________________________________________| <-- 2x6 board
     *   *                                 *   * <---------- chain
     *|-|*                                 *|-|* <---------- shelving upright
     *****                                 *****


Is it safe to replace a lamp's UK 5 amp round 3 pin plug with a 13 amp rectangular 3 pin plug? UK electrical question.

I've recently come into a nice pair of lamps. Unfortunately, their plugs are 5 amp and 250v with 3 round pins (BS546A). I do not have round pin sockets in my home. Is it safe to to replace the plugs with more modern 13 amp rectangular 3 pin plugs? Say, like these?

If it is safe, would simply watching a tutorial designed for replacing rectangular pin plugs with the same type of plug work for stepping me through it (like say this)? Or would there be potential snags that wouldn't be covered?

Thanks!

Yes - almost certainly.  You need to get the wiring right (the wires should be colour coded in the usual way - if in doubt post pictures). The pins are in the same positions in both plugs. The 13A plug is fixed unlike the 5A. A fuse should be chosen to match the rating of the cord but you're unlikely to have that information. In that case just fit a 1A fuse unless the bulb is over 200W when you should go for 3A.

The 5A plug is used in theatrical lighting (along with the 15A) but it was also used many years ago when standards weren't what they are now. Watch out for metal housings with no earth wire (double insulation is possible however) or cable with only a single layer of insulation (such as you only see on Christmas tree lights) often as two such wires twisted together.

A further thought on wiring: rather than the usual brown/blue/green&yellow you may see red/black/green for live/neutral/earth. This is based on ancient British standards like the 5A plug, that were adopted then adapted in some commonwealth countries.


HVAC heating and cooling circuits When a low voltage HVAC unit cools a home do both W1 and Y1 circuits activate?

I've tested voltages when heating and cooling.

my brown wire is always cold but heat and cool work.
my y1 is hot on heat.
my y1 and w1 are hot on cool.

I'm trying to figure out what's happening.

Handler, Thermostat, and Outside Unit junction angle #1:

Handler, Thermostat, and Outside Unit junction angle #2:

Between Outside Unit and 3-Way junction (note reversing valve color change):

Thermostat:

Your thermostat repurposes W1 (call for first stage heat) as O/B (reversing valve) when in heat pump mode, instead of having a separate O/B terminal that's unused in conventional mode and using W1 to control the emergency/auxiliary heat. (Instead, W2 (call for second stage heat) is repurposes as AUX/E (auxiliary/emergency heat) when in heat pump mode.)

So, what you are seeing is absolutely normal in your case, merely peculiar to your model of thermostat.  See page 6/PDF page 8 of the manual for details.


Can I disassemble and re-nail a 2x4 wall with the same lumber? I just built a 10' load-bearing wall section and realized I made a mistake. I knocked it apart and would like to re-do it, but I'm worried that end-nailing into the studs (where I can't be sure I'm avoiding existing nail holes) goes against code. But I can't find anything that says that's the case.

Can I re-build it using the same lumber?

As long as the studs were end-nailed (not toenailed), they will be fine for re-use. If you are remotely concerned and time isn't really an issue, cut 3/4" off the ends and put in an extra plate. (The extra plate might help with raising the wall, too.)


Is this small slope a problem installing vinyl plank? We are going to install luxury vinyl plank flooring in our basement. This product clicks together and floats, much like laminate.

Two questions:

The cement slab/subfloor is fairly level, with one exception: There is a 36"W walkout door, and the floor slopes down about 1/2" over the 6-8" before the door threshold.

Is this 1/2" descent enough to worry about when installing the floor?

If so, any suggestions?

Here's a pic of the flooring extending to the threshold showing the slope:

In the pic you can also see a marble threshold. This abuts the actual door threshold (which you can't see in the pic). Wondering if I should remove the marble threshold and put in one more suited to laminate or vinyl, with a lip to hold the flooring down under it. Maybe something like this:

If I use this, can I just bend the vinyl flooring down the slope and secure it under the threshold's lip, or do I need to fill in the cement to make the entry area level before installing the threshold and flooring?

Thanks,

Jim

Yes, this will be a problem if done as is.

If you don't stabilize that flooring by leveling the floor beneath, you will find the floor will sink under your feet as you step on it in that point, and since there's a fixed threshold, you'll create a tripping hazard in the process.

The product you show - that's a bullnose.  It's used on steps.  It's not suited for your intended use and it won't work anyway because you're on concrete.  They're meant to be nailed in place.

I suggest you get some patch leveling compound.  It's a concrete product that's fairly thick.  You apply it to the uneven areas of your floor with a nice wide trowel and use a long straight board to basically boost up the sinking area of the floor to create a nice level surface.  That will keep the boards from sinking when stepped on and keep the top of the floor close to level with the marble threshold for a nice safe walking surface.

Get pre-mixed leveler.  One container should be enough:


How do I trouble shoot powerline issues to my home? We moved into a new home about one year ago. Since then we have had several weird instances where several light bulbs within our home burn out at the same time. My wife has also had 2 high-end salon grade hair dryers burn out during this time as well. Thankfully nothing really expensive has blown out yet but I became concerned that we may have a problem so I started doing some research online.

I eventually called the power company to request a line check. The line check revealed a voltage imbalance on the 2 hot lines into our home so the power company tech informed me that he had to shut down my power as a precaution until a repair crew could come identify/repair the problem. The repair personnel showed up a few hours later and it was dark and getting late. Unlike the earlier technician who arrived in a power company truck the repair crew appeared to be driving non power company vehicles so I believe they were subcontractors. They claimed they ran some current tests on the lines and found no problems. They told me they couldn't fix a problem they couldn't find so they were going to turn our power back on.

This didn't make sense to me so I asked a lot of questions about why things were burning up and what would cause the imbalance and I didn't get any clear answers. It also didn't make sense to me that the power company thought it serious enough to shut down our power as a precaution only to have the repair crew tell me there was no problem. My gut was telling me the repair guys were short cutting something but I don't know enough to be sure. Any advice on what I should do would be greatly appreciated.

You can rent (somewhat reasonably) or purchase (generally expensive) a "Power line monitor" to record any issues with your power as delivered. Or you can call the power company back and tell them what you've told us, and your concerns with how the last time went and the evident subcontractors (and perhaps try requesting that they put a power line monitor on your service for a week or two WITHOUT you having to pay to rent one - probably not, but if you don't ask, definitely not - so ask.)

If renting one, probably go for a month.


How do I remove dried latex paint from clothing? How do you remove dried latex paint out of clothes? It has been there for several days. I haven't really tried anything yet because didn't want to make it worse.

I find that rubbing alcohol works quite well as a solvent for dried latex paint.  Soak and rub.


Which floor sander do I need to tidy a room and to strip paint off a deck? I'd like to sand the hardwood in a bedroom and a somewhat weathered deck. The bedroom is mostly in good condition, but in a couple of spots the wood is worn from traffic and furniture. I could forego sanding the deck and just paint it, but after a small experiment with a belt sander, I found that the surface is much smoother/nicer after sanding. The main difficulty there is that to get the surface to be smooth, I also have to remove the old paint, which may use a lot of sheets of sandpaper (or is it actually possible to take off a sheet of sandpaper, shake the paint off, and reinstall it? —— alternatively, is it possible to hose down the deck to dislodge some of the old paint, and then continue with fresh sandpaper?).

My local big box has three kinds of sanders for rental. Which one should I use? Will just one fit both jobs?

Square Buff Floor Sander

Floor Sander

U-Stand Pro Random Orbit Floor Sander

The Square Buff Floor Sander is a big version of a palm sander. In other words, you attach a piece of sanding paper and the machine shakes it in some pattern.

The Floor Sander is a big version of a belt sander. Unlike a belt sander (where the sand paper comes as strips with the ends glued) the large version just takes an ordinary rectangular sheet of sanding paper. The paper is wrapped around a drum and is inserted in a notch in the cylinder to stay put.

The U-Stand Pro Random Orbit Floor Sander takes a flat sheet of sanding paper, but one cut in a circle. It is not advised to use this machine by someone without some experience, because it can easily spin out of control, damaging the floor. It must be held steady.

To summarize, for minor marks in the hardwood, use the Square Buff Floor Sander. For major marks, use the Floor Sander. Either way remember to keep moving, and steadily, to get a uniform layer off.


Toilet valve flushing by itself Every so often, the valve lets the water run.

To check the flapper, I shut the water off overnight. The water in the tank didn't go down so it may not be the flapper.

What else could it be?

Small rocks and scale can cause the fill valve to leak allowing more water in. Some can be fixed by turning the water off, then removing the top of the fill valve and slightly turning the water on Put a cup over the top so when it turns on you don't soak your bathroom. Push down on the float let the water run for a few seconds. turn water off and reassemble the valve. wait and see if that did the trick. Usually there will be rust and sediment in the bottom of the tank if it blows out a lot of debris. I like to clean this out with a wet vac so it wont leave rust stains in the bowl. The valves are inexpensive and not hard for a DIY person to change at worst case.


Installing a pet door - no ideal location - support beam question I am in the process of installing a pet door and there really isn't any ideal area in the living area to install it due to either things on the inside that are in the way or on the outside that are in the way etc.

I found one location that would be perfect for it until I cut the drywall back and found a center stud. I did check this wall with a beam finder prior and knew it was there but I wanted to see what I was working with anyway.

This is an exterior wall that leads into the back yard but due to the beam, I am not sure how to proceed.

I found the second image online regarding a possible workaround but wanted to find out if there are any prerequisites for such process. The issue is that the holes on the right side are to the left of the beam that supports the window frame so putting in another piece of wood for the "jack" would probably come out too far and interfere with the the dog door it self.

Do I have any options for this?

The image you provided from the internet is the typical solution. You state concern of the king stud for the window framing being too close to the exposed stud in your included photo to add an additional jack stud for the header for your dog door. The addition of a jack only narrows the opening one and a half inches. You need to determine the required rough opening for the pet door. If the rough opening is not at least 3 inches less than the current width between the two outside studs , you will need to get a smaller dog door , a smaller dog, or both! Good luck.


How can I fix this very noticeable brush mark? I painted a ceiling in my house yesterday. The previous finish was white matt but I wanted a satin finish on the ceiling.
I sanded the ceiling before hand with a drywall sander. It was the first time I had used it so I was admittedly a bit heavy handed in some places and stripped back the paint in some areas to the bare plaster. I then "spot primed" these areas and sanded them back.
I stupidly forgot to sand probably the most noticeable spot primed area on the whole ceiling before painting. I did it in the evening so I didn't notice it as there was no natural light. After applying 2 coats of the white satin paint you can really notice the brush marks.
You don't even see it if you stand anywhere in the room, its just when you are walking by or walking into it.... very annoying.
See here... the mark is right where the natural light hits the ceiling.

I don't think adding another coat of paint on top will fix this, could I possible just sand away the brush marks here and do 1 more coat of paint on the ceiling? that would mean this one patch on the ceiling will only have 1 coat of paint... would that stop it blending in to the rest of the ceiling?
Is sanding the whole thing back, washing and starting again the only way? :(

Don't use a brush.
There is a 99.9999% chance that the original ceiling paint was done with a roller, and you should do the same.
The roller leaves those little stipple marks you see elsewhere on the ceiling, while a brush will leave straight lines. The straight lines will, as you've noticed, stand out quite nicely against the stippled background.
At this point, you're not really putting paint on the ceiling as much as you are putting a pattern on, so you should be able to do it with a reasonably dry roller. Light coats, applied in a zig-zag pattern until it disappears.


Can I connect an outdoor wood stove to my current HVAC system? How do I install a wood stove as an auxiliary heat source?

I've read this question, it doesn't really answer what I need to know.  What I would like to do is install a wood stove (the old pot belly iron kind that you can get used for $300-$500) outside.  I currently have a heat pump as my main HVAC system, with a LP fireplace that heats one room upstairs.  I am working on finishing my basement and would like to know if it is feasible to have the wood stove outdoors and connect it to ductwork for the current HVAC system.  Would this work?  Would it be better to make a place for it in the basement?

I've seen outdoor wood furnaces by Central Boiler, but they are more than I'd like to pay, and a bit overkill for what I'm planning to use it for.

As one comment mentions, the type of old stove you're describing heats by radiating, and it will be difficult to move that heat into the house somehow.

Another issue to be concerned with is whether or not the stove is certified - if it's not, chances are you won't be able to get insurance, or insurance may be invalidated if it's the cause of a fire.  Check your policy.

There are some good solutions for an outdoor wood furnace, but they're not going to be cheap.  It's far easier and cheaper to install a good quality, modern wood stove in the basement, and it's (IMHO) the nicest quality heat you'll get.

When we moved out of a house that had a wood furnace (which heated via forced air, and also had a boiler to heat water for the baseboard radiators) into a house with electric baseboard, the first thing we did was install a wood stove.


What would cause excess CO2 in cellar Question Update: We now know that the problem is Carbon Dioxide; any suggestions on what could be consuming oxygen and producing Carbon Dioxide would be great!

We rent an old farm house that has recently been renovated, the cellar has been tanked, it would be perfect as an office, but I'm out of breath just typing this question.

It seems that either a build up of some other gas is excluding the oxygen. Does anyone have any ideas?  It doesn't seem normal!!

I'm guessing it's oxygen (or lack of) as I'm unable to even light a match in the cellar.

It does seem to be worse when it's wet weather.

There is NO obvious source of gasses, as the house has electric heating, cooking and hot water

I've also asked this related question on the Chemistry Stackexchange site

UPDATE 2

We've had the Environment Health monitoring the Cellar and the rest of the house for some weeks now. They have now served a prohibition order preventing us from using the cellar.  They recorded levels approaching 10%, today we have had a surveyor at the house appointed by the landlord and they initially speculate the source could be soot used in the foundations.  Any thoughts?

UPDATE

An insepector from the local council has installed a data-logger, whilst he was in the basement he took a reading that I've attached below. When this reading was taken the air felt poor, but by no means the worst it's been, a candle wouldn't stay alight. An breathing during conversation seemed laboured. It looks like the assumption of displacement doesn't look correct, there's more to it.
Here's the readings:

Gas - Reading (Normal)

CO2 3.3% (0.04%)
O2 17.5% (20.8%)
Other 79.2% (unchanged?)

If you're feeling lightheaded/out of breath in the basement, I'd stay out of there until it's well ventilated and never enter the area without someone on the outside to monitor  you and call for help if needed (but that person should not enter the area). If it were my basement, I'd call the fire department to check for Carbon Monoxide and/or combustible gas and assist with ventilation.

One possibility is that Carbon Monoxide has accumulated in the basement, perhaps due to a faulty heating appliance and poor ventilation, or gasoline powered equipment in or near the house. This is extremely hazardous and potentially fatal -- it can cause you to become incapacitated and unable to leave the space.

Some signs of CO exposure include:

  Headache

  Shortness of breath

  Personality changes

  Unusually emotional behavior or extreme swings in emotions

  Fatigue

  Malaise (a generally sick feeling)

  Dizziness

  Clumsiness or difficulty walking

  Vision problems

  Confusion and impaired judgment

  Nausea and vomiting

  Rapid breathing

  Chest pain

  A rapid or irregular heartbeat

Another, less likely possibility is Carbon Dioxide (CO2). CO2 is heavier than air and can pool in low areas such as unventilated basements. It would take a fairly high concentration of CO2 to prevent a match from igniting. It is less dangerous than CO in that the CO2 doesn't bind to your blood like CO, but overexposure to CO2 can incapacitate you, preventing you from leaving the area.

CO2 can be generated by a combustion appliance like a natural gas or propane fueled dryer or heater with a faulty exhaust vent. Other sources could be something  that uses CO2 gas directly like gas from MIG welder, home brewing equipment, home water carbonator, etc.

You could have a natural gas/propane leak. I'd avoid any open flame or anything  else that serve as an ignition source (wuch as turning on a switch or even a flashlight) just in case  the problem is caused by a combustable gas. Propane is also heavier than air and can pool in lower areas (Natural gas is lighter than air and tends to dissipate, except when the gas is cooler than air and more dense, so  it can pool). It is possible for the odorant used in natural gas and propane to  fade, so lack of distinctive gas odor doesn't necessarily mean that  no gas is present.

There are certainly other gases that could also be causing the problem such as sewer gases, or other gases that come from the ground, or heavier than air gases that are released anywhere near the house.


How do I maintain an 80% efficient natural gas furnace? I have an 80% efficient gas furnace at my house, that is seemingly working well and is configured with an air conditioner. What preventative maintenance should be done to it, and at what interval? Is replacing the air filter all that I need to do until I notice trouble?

Please provide details in general, so the answer can be be applicable to the most people.

Yes, replacing the filter is basically the only maintenance that is necessary for natural gas and propane furnaces. You probably don't need to replace the filter more than once a season. There exists a "filter alarm whistle" that you can install. It whistles when your filter needs replacement. You should make sure that the filter is properly installed, so that air cannot bypass it.

Oil furnaces and boilers, however, do require regular maintenance.

Optionally, you can have the blower and heat exchanger cleaned, but it won't make much difference in terms of performance.

Despite the claims of duct cleaning companies, cleaning your ducts will not make much of a difference in terms of energy performance or indoor air quality (reference). However, if you have an air conditioner, cleaning the indoor evaporator coil can be a good idea.

With a forced-air system, the most important thing is to make sure the ducts are sealed and well insulated if they are located in an unconditioned attic, crawlspace, or basement.


Garage door opener installation - hardwired vs. outlet power? I'm installing an opener for my garage door, and need to run some new wiring in order to get power to the unit. The unit can be hardwired or plugged into an outlet. I'm leaning toward the outlet option for now since it seems more versatile. Is this simply a matter of personal preference, or are there compelling reasons for choosing one option over the other?

Personally, I'd prefer my garage door opener to be outlet powered so that I can unplug the thing when I need to do something with it, instead of going to find a breaker. Other than ease of disabling, I don't think there is any compelling operational reason to do one or the other.

Of course, if your next opener can't be hardwired, that might be a reason to not hardwire this one (the outlet will already be in the right spot next time).


Ceramic disk faucet valve is stiff/sticky I've pulled the faucet apart and in the valve housing, there are two ceramic disks that rotate to mix the hot and cold water. I thought the piece was a single piece until I realized it budged a bit. I was able to slide the two apart in a shearing motion (rather than pulling them directly apart).

I couldn't understand how they were so stuck. I put the pieces together and pulled them directly apart and they were fine. Then I put them together and rotated them (as they would do in the housing) and that's when I could feel them glue themselves together. It dawned on me that the ultra-smooth surfaces were forming a vacuum between them as I rotated them. To the point where i could no longer rotate them at all, and had to forcefully shear them apart again.

This only began happening in the past week. Prior to that, the faucet worked as it always had.

Anyone know anything about what I'm referring to and whether there's any remedy?

Machinists use measuring blocks called gage blocks, whose surfaces are so flat and smooth that you can wring them together and they'll stick tight.

Again, this requires extremely flat and smooth surfaces; this isn't something that would accidentally happen and cause a problem in your faucet. My guess is that the stiffness you feel is somewhere else in the mechanism. (If I'm right, and you figure out where, let us know in the comments.)


Adding CPVC tee to existing 1" CPVC water main line I am trying to add a tee to my water main to branch a line for irrigation system. My water main is 1" CPVC and doesn't have enough movement to insert the tee. Any ideas?

Need the tee inserted in the red rectangle area

The solution to fitting a Tee fitting into an existing straight line pipe is to also add a Union fitting. The Union is a threaded coupler fitting that comes in three parts. Two of the parts get bonded to the CPVC pipe and the third part couples them together.

Picture source from PVC PIPE SUPPLIES

If you plan the re-assembly of the parts of the piping system carefully the final fit of the Union will just fit inline without concern of how to get it installed. Do note that you will have to have at least one side of the existing inline pipe freed up enough so that you can flex it to one side just enough to get the two glue joint sides of the Union in place.

Do not forget to slide the threader piece over the correct end of the existing piping before gluing the union parts in place.


Can't remove top piece of drain I am doing preventive maintenance on my bathroom sinks with this: Vastar drain snake and I thought it would be a good idea to do this in my shower stall. I took off the two screws but the top piece of the drain would not budge. Any ideas on how to get it off?

Brute force applied carefully would be the answer in this case. It's not unusual for adhesive material to seep under the drain grille when assembled. An angled pry-bar that can fit through the mesh to get as close as possible to the edge of the circle for best leverage and minimal possibility of damage.

The square holes would give you the best flexibility of attack when approached on the diagonal.  The tricky part is to have something thin enough that won't bend when you try to pry.


Does this wall have any more studs? I have a small little alcove in my wall which is perfect for a bookshelf and started stud hunting. I followed along either side of an outlet with a strong magnet until I found a screw and then moved up vertically until I marked them all. I checked around either side of this stud but failed to locate any more screws.

I don't know anything about drywall. Does it seem plausible there are no other studs to be had here?

I've attached a photo of the wall with the screws I narked with tape.

Update:

I went over it a bit more and hugged closer to the wall to find two more studs. They are 11" apart (left side) and 28" apart (right side). Does this seem right?

Update:

One of the comments helped me think more about why the studs are placed as they are. There is an air vent that passes directly through the center of the wall and the center stud is to the left of it.

Do you know whether the stud spacing in this structure is 16" or 24"? This one stud may be all there is. You may have the edges of studs accessible at the ends of the alcove. If these are available, that would give three studs which is sufficient. Depending on how much weight you plan to put on this, you can use anchors in drywall. ELFA drywall anchors are very secure against pullout stress.

Scan the wall with a stud finder.


Hot water cylinder (direct heating), loosing heat and pressure during the day I moved into a new property a few months ago with a direct heating hot water cylinder. This is a new one for me as I have always had a gas combi boiler before.

I have economy 7, so the water heats up during the night. The thermostat on the immersion heater is set to 60° c and and in the morning the gauge always reads 60° and 2 bar.

Usually when I get back for work the temperature has dropped to about 58°c which seems pretty good to me.

There is a recirculation pump which the previous owner had disabled, I decided to leave it disabled as it seems a waist of energy circulating hot water all the time when I am out.

However in the last week when I get home the the gauge has been reading 40°c and 1-1.5 bar. Along side this I am now getting hot water at the kitchen tap almost Instantly, where as I used to have to run it for a minute.

Is it possible that the recirculation circuit has just started working on convection only? Or could I have a leak?

Sounds like a leak, near the kitchen sink that allows hot water to drain from the heater towards to sink.

One way to confirm (apart from seeing the leak effect) would be to turn off the isolation valve at the heater for the day, while away, and checking by how much the temperature drops during the day.

If it doesn't drop nearly the same, then you know there's a leak and the cooling was due to cold water replacing hot water in the tank.


Replacing Multi-turn Toilet Valve As you can see above, I've got three bathrooms with 1/2" galvanized pipe multi-turn toilet valves I'm wanting to replace with quarter turns.  I originally was planning on just breaking loose the old valve but I've begun to worry a little bit about creating a leak on the other side of the drywall in the process.  Is that reasonable?

So I moved on to the idea I'd use a pipe cutter (I would like the stub out shorter anyways) and rethread. But I guess that still leaves me with the potential of creating a leak.  I don't mind taking my time and utilizing a pipe wrench to try and combat force on the other hidden end but do I need to just bite the bullet and cut an access and replace from the joint I'm sure is on the other side of the drywall?

Never done this type of work before and I know it's not an atypical or "hard" job, even my upstairs bath already had the multi-turn replaced but that was more than likely done by an experienced plumber.  What's the SoP for this type of thing?  By the way the escutcheon is pulled away from the wall a bit so it makes the pipe look shorter than it is.

Thanks for any help in advance!

EDIT: Sorry forgot to update. Couple weekends ago I hit it with PB Blaster and was able to work the old valve off while holding the nipple dead still.  Got the new 1/4 turn on with some tape and putty and got the toilet back and mounted.  Plenty of room in the back with the 1/4 turn now so glad I didn't bother shortening the nipple.  Thanks again for the help everyone.

A pipe wrench holding the exposed portion of the nipple should allow you to remove the valve without loosening the joint in the wall.

But be sure to inspect the condition of the pipe.  This appears to be galvanized steel pipe which rusts over time.  If the pipe appears to be rusted severely or is filled with scale, you may want to replace it and even the pipes in the wall.

Note, you may wish to employ a helper to hold the pipe wrench while you unscrew the valve.


How can I connect a portable propane bottle to a tankless hot water heater? I'm looking at a tankless hot water heater (Rinnai V65EP) with a 3/4" NPT propane input. The manual says that a 1/2" propane feed is acceptable if it is relatively short. Required gas supply pressure is 8.0 ‐ 13.5 inch W.C.

I am planning on putting a dedicated 40lb (10gal) propane bottle right next to the water heater. The propane line will only be a few feet long, and the water heater will be the only appliance drawing from this tank.

Is this a workable plan?

What regulator and other equipment should I install between the tank and the heater?

Installation manual: http://www.rinnai.us/documentation/downloads/U307-1120.pdf

One major problem is that most propane regulators are intended for small appliances, mostly less than 75,000 BTUs/hr typical of an outdoor grill.  The Rinnai V65EP can use up to 150,000, so a regulator designed for a little more than that would be the desired fit.

Shopping around, I notice many don't say what their maximum flow rate is, and of those which do, it is hard to find a "low pressure" (corresponding to less than 13.5" water column) in that range.

Here are a few I could find after several minutes searching:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulator-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Type-1-LP-Gas-Grills-Parts-21-BBQ-Low-Pressure-/261136984141#vi-content
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Propane-Regulator-POL-LP-Gas-Low-Pressure-grill-BBQ-smoker-stove-Parts-/251219429378#vi-content

Lowes has a two stage regulator capable of up to 200,000 btus.  It is inexpensive at $40.


Fireplace sensor that is not a thermocouple or a thermopile My MB42 fireplace with digital fireplace burner control (SIT Proflame) will not stay on after starting. It shuts off many times, and only on a 6th try or so, will stay on.

The controller has a single wire connection to the "pilot flame sensor."

I suspect the sensor, and want to replace it.

However, I am confused by this sensor, as it has just one lead. Watching Fire Place repair videos I learned that there are thermocouple and thermopile sensors, but mine seems to be neither.

It does not have the two leads of the thermopile, nor the single tube of the thermocouple.It just has a single connection to CN4 on the controller.

What is this single-wire flame sensor called? It's the one on the left. The one on the middle looks similar, but is slightly wider and provides the spark.

A little more on the symptoms: when just started, will shut off repeatedly. Sometimes before the main burner switches on, but sometimes when main burner is already on.

Once the main burner has been on for at least a minute, it will stay on.

That's a fairly typical flame sensor. A common remedy is to polish it up a bit with steel wool. They develop a carbon coating that inhibits sensitivity. Yours looks a bit grungy, and judging by your symptoms I'd guess that cleaning or replacing it will resolve the issue.

  A flame sensor "senses" a weak DC signal from the AC power sent to the ignitor which via the phenomenon of flame rectification in which the polarity of power sent through a flame is rectified to DC, flame is a poor conductor so the signal is mere micro amps .3 to .5 usually and the flame sensor is nothing more than a rod insulated [b]y a ceramic base so it is not in contact with anything....

https://www.quora.com/How-does-a-flame-sensor-work


outside lights dont work properly my outside lights with sensors work for a while then stop when you reset them nothing happens, but if you reset them the next day they work for a while again then stop. sorry two stop and one stays working they are all on the same power circuit as the house. help please I live in the U.K.

My first thought is that the sensor has debris on the outside, or - if there is a protective cover on the sensor - has built up a film on the inside of the cover.  Try cleaning it well outside, then see if you can remove the cover to clean the back side.

My 2nd thought is that I've often found finicky electrical problems to be caused by a loose wire or bad solder joint.  You might turn off the power, open the case up, and look for loose/broken wiring or cracked solder joints on the circuit board.  This would fit with your description of the problem - they quit working after they have run for a while, and don't reset until the next day (when they would be cooled off).  It's not uncommon for an electrical device to quit working when it gets "warmed up".

Last thought - I've worked with quality assurance in my career- It's pretty common that the business folks decided to go with a cheaper material and warranty the product for only a year or sometimes 90 days.  They count on no one returning the product and they make a bigger profit.  If your lights were on the low end of the cost spectrum, it might be more beneficial to just upgrade. :)


Faucet Removal Problem I need to replace my kitchen faucet but have never seen one like this before. My sink is a 4 hole, but this seems to be all one assembly. I does have a sprayer on it also, which is the hose with the nut.

Remove the hose attachment at point A as shown below.

Then remove the hex nuts from the threaded pipe at the point B.

These two steps will free up the U shaped washer and plastic spacer under it and allow the central faucet assembly to become loose.

You may also have to remove the fastener at the location shown at the lower portion of your photo. There may actually be two of these to remove, one in each of the faucet holes for faucet types that mount into separate holes. These two additional fasteners typically hold a decorative plate above in place the covers these holes in cases where a single handle style faucet is used.


Can i use 8 gauge wire with 10 gauge ground with double 50 amp breaker So i bought 8 gauge 3 wire for my stove but after installing i seen it was 10 gauge ground wire with the wite and black being 8 gauge. Will it make a difference?

You can't use #8 on a 50A circuit

You have to read out of the 60C column of 310.15(B)(16), which means you are limited to 40A.

It would be possible with other classes of wire in conduit,  but not possible with the usual types of cable used in America used for this job (which is what you are referring to).

If you really need 50A, then change to #6 cable.

But the ground is fine

Circuits up to 60A are able to use a 10 AWG ground.

The conductors need to carry current continuously.  The ground only needs to carry current long enough to trip the breaker.


How to repair an GFCI outlet with a loose ground (green) screw? I have a contractor come in to do some tile work and he had taken out some GFCI outlets. I think he must have used a power drill to loosen the screws and one of the green, ground screw fell off. It would not go back in. Now I have 2 GFCI outlets with no ground.

It seems the screw is supposed to screw in a small plate inside the outlet, like a screw into a nut. As the screw is completely off, it is not connected to anything. Is there a way to fix that?

I managed to fix it!

It seems there is also a little hole for Push-In ground wire and meant to be tighten with screw. The push-in hole gave me an opportunity. I first line up the inside and outside holes by gently shaking the receptacle. And then I insert a needle, in-lieu of the ground wire, through the push-in hole to apply pressure to the small holed plate from the inside. Finally, I screw in the screw. Good as new!


How should I install 5" white oak hardwood? I live in Chicago and had heard that 5" white oak hardwood flooring needed to be both glued and nailed but I was also told that due to our extreme weather it should not be glued because when season changes and the wood wants to move, it can't because of the glue. As a result of that, every plank can split because of the stress.  Can anyone tell me which is correct.

Additionally, can it be installed after being in the house for 3 days?

If it's solid hardwood and not a laminate or engineered, you probably don't want to glue it. How thick is it? Generally hardwoods are edge nailed through the tongue with a special nail gun.

3 days isn't a great amount of time for it to acclimate, but if you take it out of the boxes and spread it out, that'll help.

You may want to contact the manufacturer if you bought it boxed some place or contact the mill where you bought it and see what they specifically recommend.


14/4 cable use in switches for vent fan and light combination This post is similar (but different) to one I posted previously, and I got great answers at that time. This is a different bathroom:

I currently have an overhead bathroom light with a single pole switch at the door. The power for the light first comes into the ceiling box directly above the light via 14/2 cable. The hot for the light switch is tapped in right there by using the black wire of a 14/3 cable, said 14/3 then runs to the switch where the black wire supplies feed for the switch and when switch is turned on the red from same 14/3 runs back to the light as power (right before the light, another black wire is tapped in to feed vanity light). Now, here is something else; in the switch box on the wall, before the black feed from the 14/3 runs to the switch, another 14/2 cable taps into that hot feed to supply overhead lights to the bedroom on the other side of the bathroom wall (it runs straight to the switch that controls those lights from the bottom of my bathroom light switch box).

So, now I'm replacing my bathroom light with a light and fan combination. I will be installing a 2 function switch instead of the single pole so I can control the fan and the light separately. So, I'm thinking, why not just replace the 14/3 that runs to the switch now from the light junction box with 14/4 wire. I can do that in the attic. So, what kind of 14/4 should I buy, stranded or solid? Any special markings need to be on the cable? Also, it has to be able to be the feed for the bedroom lights I mention in the last sentence of paragraph #1 above. I'd tap into the 14/4 in the switch box to feed the bedroom lights. I also need to tie in to the 14/4 at the light box to feed the vanity light.

Any 14/4 you can find should do it.  Ideally you want NM type, but UF will suffice.

I expect any 14/4 on the market will be solid wire.

If a conduit connection is feasible, you can then run individual THHN wires in conduit. This may make sense if thecost of 14/4 is prohibitive. THHN wires come in solid or stranded. I prefer stranded, but I am pretty good at getting stranded wire on screw terminals without frizzies.  You must never use stranded wire in a backstab.


Which material for a sink bucket? I'm thinking about making a small sink for my DIY lab. Since there is no running water or drain, I was thinking about something similar to a camping sink like this one.
I'd make some modifications (e.g. using a ceramic basin rather than a plastic one, since it will be fixed).
Now, for the water reservoir any container is fine, but I have doubts about the material of the drain plumbing and container. I'd usually use it to wash the hands (so only water + soap), but I'd also occasionally use it to wash tools and items, which can include also chemicals (e.g. ferric chloride to etch PCBs).
What material is usually used in these cases, and what are its limitations? (e.g. this plastic is ok for acids but when used with gasoline breaks).
For instance I found containers and pipes in PE or PVC or PP; is any of these materials suitable?

#1- Plastic Buckets are cheap. Use one 'til it is no longer usable, buy three.  (My favorite are the Lowe's buckets. I have put all kind of nasty stuff in them.)
I lived for many years with a water jug on a shelf above a double sink with  plastic buckets under each bowl (and a camp toilet in the bathroom).  The key  to remember is LOOK UNDER THE SINK to see how full the buckets are.
A small galvanized trash can would hold more liquid. I am not sure how water tight they are. I have had ones that held water. Maybe a stainless steel one from a restaurant supply house would be a good investment.
A galvanized bucket would be a good choice.

Photo courtesy of It's still life No affiliation.


How do I get my hot surface ignitor to ignite? I have a Trane TUD080C936J0 gas furnace/ac. The furnace starts up via a hot surface ignitor.

The ignitor that was in it went bad, and I bought a replacement. When I plugged it in, it worked fine - once. The next time it called for heat there was a pop and a tinkling sound and the ignitor was in pieces - it looked like thermal shock or something.

I took that back and got an exchange, but the one they gave me was pre-cracked, and as neither of us checked it out at the store they wouldn't give me an exchange.

A couple of weeks later, a new one came in from an eBay seller. This one has about 40-50 ohms resistance, but the furnace still flashes "check hot surface ignitor. I've plugged my multimeter into the plug that goes to the ignitor and when the thermostat calls for heat it spikes for a moment (I typically see 500/1500/200v flash) and then it goes back to zero. I even plugged my multimeter in series with the ignitor and got the same behavior, but still no dice. Is it possible I just got another faulty ignitor? Is there a way that I can test the ignitor, like just plugging it into a wall socket or something? Presumably not while actually holding it, of course.

The furnace did flash one of the other trouble codes at first, but that switch was apparently just a little stuck - pulling it out and warming it up let it reset, and it doesn't flash that code anymore.

Any ideas?

First, never get anything on the igniter like finger oil.
Depending on the circuit board it may be a constant voltage or a variable voltage ignition system. If it is constant voltage you should get a constant 120 volts +/- . If it is a variable voltage system then it shouldn’t be much above 90 volts. The variable voltage system was supposed to extend the life of the igniter by only using the bare minimum voltage. It would try about 60 volts and if it didn’t ignite it would up the volts until it did. The only problem with the system was that when the igniter did fry it tended to take the board with it. Either you aren’t taking a proper meter reading or the board is bad. With either board the most you should be reading is line voltage and it should stay on for at least 10 seconds or so.


10-30 Plug Doesn't Fit 10-30 Outlet I have a dryer plugged into a (seemingly modified) 10-30 nema outlet.

Instead of the ends of the prongs having a short 45 degree angle before the end of the prong, the dryer prongs seem to have been shaved down so that the width of the end of the prong is a centimeter short than the base of the prong.

When I try to plug a new 10-30 nema plug into this outlet, it stops half way.

Is there a name for this type of plug? Can I get an adapter for my new plug? Would I risk breaking anything (or burning my house) if I shaved down the ends of the new plug to match the dryer plug so that it fits?

Not to be a kill joy but this plug and receptacle is the old style that no longer meets code for a residential clothes dryer connection.  It does not provide independent means for ground.  I don't recommend cutting anything to 'make it work'. Consider a new four wire circuit cable with new approved matching plug and receptacle.


How do I grout tile on an unstable floor? We recently installed tile in our kitchen.  It's upstairs in a 50 year-old home.  We knew the floor was "soft" in that it had saggy spots and we had access to most of the joists.  We shored those suckers up as best we could and laid the tile.  We used tile adhesive rather than thin-set believing (perhaps erroneously) that it would accomodate any latent flexibility in the floor.

Everything looked and felt great until about 2 weeks later when we began to notice spots where the grout was crumbling.  Not everywhere, just a few spots.  We corrected some of the problems with additional shoring, but others aren't going away.

You can't actually feel the "softness" of the floor.  It appears to be just enough flex to ruin the grout.

Will an epoxy grout (or any other product!) solve this problem, or are we doomed?

You could try adding a latex or other type of flexibility modifier to the grout.

The number one rule of ceramic tile is the base has to be solid. If the floor flexes the installation will fail sooner or later.

Good luck!


Circuit Breaker Trip - Identifying Culprit A non-AFCI/non-GFCI circuit breaker tripped while I was away for a week.  Connected were a full size residential in the U.S. (18 year old) refrigerator, 2 powered off computers, and 1 powered on computer.

I attempted to reset the breaker and it immediately tripped again.  I could see a small spark in the breaker panel when I tried the reset.

I then unplugged the refrigerator and the 2 powered off computers (I didn't realize the 3rd computer was on this circuit) and reset the breaker again.  It held this time.

My refrigerator and 2 previously powered off computers now work fine.  The power supply on the previously running computer no longer functions.

I haven't previously seen a computer power supply on an idling computer trip a 20 amp circuit breaker.  Besides loading my refrigerator with food and waiting for this circuit to trip again, is there anything else I can do to check the computers and refrigerator?  I already pulled the outlet covers and things look ok.

Refrigerator:  Whirlpool ED25TEXHW00
Computer that was powered on:  600 watt power supply but probably only drawing 100 watts while I was away

Additional:  The 2 computers that survived were on a surge suppressor power strip.  The 1 that died was not.  The house is on a whole house surge suppressor.

If the non working computer powersupply has a surge suppressor remove that and double check it may be the suppressor that is causing the problem. Suppressors use MOV's these dump the spikes to ground some times when a big spike hits they are damaged to the point of failure and even burn up sometimes causing problems like you have described.


Is vertical siding more durable than horizontal siding, all things being equal? I'm looking into choosing the siding for a new construction and I'm finding that blogs and websites seem to be suggesting batt & board is better than horizontal siding (e.g. vinyl, hardiplank, etc) for shedding rain water.

This seems counter intuitive:

In horizontal siding, gravity would be pulling the water away from the seams. In vertical siding, gravity would be pulling the water along the seams.
I would expect some amount of warping/twisting in either setup (or at least expansion/contraction with the heat of the day), which would seem to affect the vertical siding more. If horizontal siding sags, twists, or separates 1/4" from the piece above or below it, no problem, right? If a batt separates 1/4" from the board, I wouldn't be surprised if water gets sucked into the crack from surface tension.

I think I must be missing something, either in one of my above assumptions or in a lack of understanding of batt & board construction.

Reference Articles from Google search batt and board siding vs horizontal siding:

"One downside to horizontal siding, in terms of durability, is the potential for rainwater to leak underneath the siding strips. This risk is relatively high, especially if you opt for wooden siding panels that will warp over time and can lead to mold and mildew growth, as well as expensive water damage. Vertical siding panels have far fewer instances of this kind of water damage, because any water that hits the surface of the panels drops immediately to the ground." https://modernize.com/home-ideas/33834/choosing-between-vertical-and-horizontal-siding
"For starters, horizontal siding can be less durable than vertical siding. That's because it's more prone to water damage over time." https://www.exteriormedics.com/blog/picking-sides-vertical-versus-horizontal-siding-installation
"durable, weathers well" http://farhas.com/which-siding-style-is-right-for-your-home/

I didn't know it was called that but I had batt & board siding and the result aligned with your intuition.  One caveat this siding was many decades old when I bought the home so keep in mind that replacing it was long overdue.

The main problem I noticed with the siding is not that there was an issue with the seams so much as that water shed along the grain of the wood.  Over time this resulted in splits in the boards.  This allowed water inside the wall and created some problems in the structure of the home.

I replaced it with pine clapboards partly for aesthetics but also because I believe them to be superior.   With clapboards, there is overlap.  If a board cracks or opens up, there's another underneath (or over it.)  I think it's better if the water runs across the grain, not with it.  From what I think I understand about wood, water will more easily be absorbed if it drips along the grain.

P.S. Looking at your links, it's important here to distinguish between horizontal siding and lapped horizontal as discussed in the 'farhas' article.  I would think vertical is preferable to horizontal if we are talking non-lapped.  Water will stick to the underside of a board and ride in between the seams.  Once it's on a flat surface, there's no natural path out and it could get behind the board or simply sit on top of one below.


Is this asbestos? (South korea) School in South Korea removed asbestos over the past few weeks. Now I am all paranoid.

Is this asbestos? Found these dime-sized chunks by my desk.

Higher resolution images are available here:

http://imgur.com/a/5e1dZ

There should be 4 pics. If not clear enough let me know.

Nobody can tell you whether or not that is ACM (asbestos containing material) by the pictures. You have to send it to a lab to know for sure.

Does it look like other ACM I have encountered? Yes

Will it hurt you if you wet it, bag it, and throw it away? No

Could it hurt you if you keep it laying around on your desk taking pictures of it and handling it? Probably not, but you should throw it away and stop stressing out

It takes time (think repeated/prolonged occupational exposure) for adverse health effects due to asbestos exposure.

Dust would be your biggest concern, especially for children. It is in what is called a friable state, meaning easily becomes airborne and inhaled. As a precaution, in the absence of lab results, it should be handled wet, like moistened with a water spray and mopped up while wearing a particulate respirator (a regular dust mask is not recommended). Alternatively, it can be vacuumed using a HEPA filter with the aforementioned respirators. Wear disposable coveralls (we use Tyvek™) and bag those and dispose as well. In the U.S.A., for confirmed ACM, this activity is regulated and may only be performed by specially trained and licensed personnel due to likelihood of repeated occupational exposure, and the waste is treated as hazardous.


How do I prepare this porous interior wall for paint? In one of the rooms in my house the walls are wallpapered.  Underneath the wall is rough and porous (see picture).

My plan is to strip the wall paper and eventually paint it, but research seems to suggest that it needs some kind of treatment first.  I have read about skimming, and plastering, which while tricky, I'm happy to have a go at, but I have also read about using "alkali resistant wall primer".

What is the best way to tackle this?  I am after a decent enough finish, ideally without spending a fortune, and if possible not too tricky.

Skimming walls is hard to do well, and generally best left to a pro.

An alternative is to put up thin drywall. It is available in sheets as thin as 1/4 inch.  While it needs to be taped and the joints compounded, it is much easier for the average craftperson to do a good job with this method than with skim coating.


GFCI outlets - can they be repaired? Are they really needed at the end of a circuit? My house just went through a flood and there was 7 feet of muddy water on the first floor, so all the AC outlets were underwater.  After the water receded, all the unprotected outlets continued to work just fine.  But 4 out of 5 GFCI outlets no longer work and cannot be reset.  Can GFCI outlets be taken apart and cleaned/fixed or is there something inside that fails permanently?

Also, all the GFCI outlets are at the ends of their lines.  In other words, there is only one wire connected to each LINE terminal and no wires connected to the LOAD terminals. So they only seem to be protecting themselves.  But if they failed once they got wet and all the non-GFCI outlets survived, can I just replace them with non-GFCI outlets?

Not worth the risk
GFCI (whether in receptacles or breakers) are sensitive, life safety electronic items. As such, you don't want to mess with them. In fact, the whole purpose of the TEST/RESET buttons is because they can fail, even without obvious problems such as a flood. Newer models even test automatically.
Is it possible that there is simply still water inside the GFCIs so that disassemble, dry, reassemble will work? Yes. Is it a good idea to try that? ABSOLUTELY NOT!
New basic GFCI receptacles are in the $15 - $20 range (varies depending on brand, 15A vs. 20A and other features). Not as cheap as plain receptacles, but not that big in the grand scheme of things.
Presumably the GFCI receptacles were installed because the particular locations - basement, bathroom, laundry room, etc. required them. Assuming that is the case, replacement with plain receptacles would be a code violation. In most places you are not required to upgrade to GFCI unless you are making changes, but downgrading doesn't make sense and is likely a code violation.
Panel Alternative
An alternative is to install GFCI breakers in the main panel. This has the disadvantage that your panel may not have room for GFCI, or if you have a very old panel or fuses instead of breakers then that is not even an option. These breakers also typically cost more than "ordinary breaker" + "GFCI receptacle" so this change would be for practical reasons (e.g., protect outside circuits where a GFCI receptacle would be subject to severe weather) or as part of a panel upgrade. If you are looking at simple cost, replacing the GFCI receptacles where they are currently located will almost certainly be the way to go.
Check Out Everything Else
As Harper noted, there are plenty of other concerns as well. This is one situation where DIY may really not be enough. You could have hidden damage that can come back to burn you (literally) when you least expect it. Professional evaluation of the entire electrical system that was underwater is worthwhile.