Clarifying the in-between rafters insulation My house is in an area which often gets -30c winter days and 30c summer days.

It's shaped like this (note that ventilation holes are also the same on the other side of the house):

Note that the roof is totally straight, not curved.  On the 2nd floor which is shaped like an A, in winter the house easily gets cold and in summer, it easily gets hot which, IMO, probably signifies a lack of insulation or some kind of ventilation problem maybe.

The main issue is that almost every winter, water is leaking from the roof, especially in the beginning of the spring, where an ice dam is already formed at the end of the roof, near the gutters.

(Always refer to above picture for colored items mentioned below)

In March, I went in the soffit area (the last 3 feet below green line, sorry, there's probably a term for this area) and the water leaking is indeed aligned with the ice dam, which is in center of the roof.  Many 2x6 rafters were soaking wet, actually DRIPPING water.  Most of this is going inside my house through the plywood and sheet rock :(

INSULATION-WISE:

There is insulation wool everywhere between the 2x6 rafters from the green line to what seems all the way to the attic and this is all across the entire roof.  I've been told by somebody recently that this should not have been built like this as it prevents hot air from escaping through the roof ventilators as the air can never leave below the green line, causing ice dams in the winter and when spring comes, it's hot enough to quickly melt and drip inside of the house.  NEED EXPERTISE ON THIS PLEASE.

VENT-WISE:

All the vents on both sides of the house are OPEN and wind is going through, I've verified this by entering the last 3 feet, which is outside of the house.  I have access to both the front and back soffit areas.  I've been told that when roof ventilators are installed, all the side vents of the house should be shut/closed to prevent disrupting the normal ventilation process of hot air going up and escaping through the roof ventilators.  NEED EXPERTISE ON THIS PLEASE.

With two much insulation the vents can not do there job making sure there is an air flow path from the soffets to the ridge / ventilators needs to be the first repair / change. Even with good ventilation with cold temps you have may have issues that require Ice & snow melting heat tape. I used heat tape on my home and under some gutters to prevent ice dams. It sounds like. You need to clear some insulation to allow the vents to work.  Then if the ice dams continue heat tape will be needed.  Both poor ventilation and ice dams can create damp and or wet areas you describe, I would add the heat tape in the ice dam area this summer but that can cost a bit to have a circuit installed and the tape put up. Moving insulation can be a nasty job but dosent cost and may do the job If rafters are wet at locations other than the ice dam.


How to drive a nail in a confined space? I keep finding myself needing to hammer nails in places where my hammer is too long to actually make the hammer head contact the nail. This isn't a situation where I need the leverage provided by the handle - I'm choking the hammer anyway for added control and less mess should a strike slip off the nailhead - but I'd rather not saw off a good hickory handle. (And forget trying to hacksaw through a metal handle.)

What I keep wishing for is basically a metal ovoid with a flattened surface, basically a big flat hammer head I can swing with one hand. Does such exist? Or is there some other tool I should be using instead?

I've tried using a nailset, but while it's great for insetting an already driven nail, it's too finicky to get a nail started.

To provide context, I'm trying to hammer in cable staples in the space between the top of the foundation and the ceiling in a basement. That gives me a workspace of about 6 in in height, 16 in in width, and maybe 10 in in depth. With the staple inset about 5 in from the right and towards the back of the space, I can't tuck a hammer crossways into the space to swing at the nails, and the space is too deep and not high enough for me to hang the handle over the ledge and swing down.

ETA: Wow, thanks for the fast (and unanimous) responses! I now have an M12 battery-powered palm nailer on the way. I'm not keen on the noise and hose-dragging of a compressor, and I've got the "swap out the battery" rhythm down from using the M12 impact driver.

I think what you need is a Palm Nailer.  You can get these in air or electric powered versions.  They are compact and are handy to drive nails in tight spaces.


Door jamb wider than framed entry I'm trying to figure out the best approach for this issue I ran into. So I have a door jamb that sits at 79.5" wide and the actual frame is at 79.25" wide.

I have 3 options:

trim either the hinge or doorknob side down. Cons: Weakens either the hinge frame side or the passage latch will have to feed into the wall stud in the frame.
trim the frame entry, Cons: harder to do, chances wont be a clean cut, thou can be hidden
take 1/4" off the top of the door frame and door itself

I cant decide which one I should do. Would love some advice on what you thoughts around this are.

I could give you some easy tips on adjusting the door and jamb but I would only do that if there wasn't the option to - make the frame bigger (rough opening).

You can plane off 1/4" on one of the sides in about 5-10 minutes and you won't be messing with the integrity of the door you bought.   You can plane sloppy and with shims you are still good to go.


Shower Constantly Dripping I have a stand-up shower with two knobs (one for hot, one for cold).  The shower drips non-stop, what is amazing to me is that the shower drips even when you are using it to take a shower!

This is an image of similar set-up of how the shower appears, what actions could I take to prevent it from constantly dripping from the shower head?

EDIT
Let me add that the shower drips from the "head" not coming from the knobs.  The shower head seems to have a very slow/steady trickle coming from one of the "holes" that is just enough to pool on the outer lip of the head and drip down constantly.

You have two issues.

The first is the dripping when the shower is off. Most likely your gaskets are worn and need to be replaced, though it could be another issue in the valves such as worn valve seats. These gaskets are rubber parts inside your hot and cold water valves (and possibly in your diverter valve) that prevent water flowing through. There are valve replacement kits available at hardware stores for many common brands. The process is a little different for different faucets though, so ideally you would identify the brand you've got and look for guidance on that specific brand.

Next the dripping when the shower is on. A few things this could be:

Dripping from where the shower head attaches to the shower arm. This is a sign of poor connection of the shower head, and can often be fixed by tightening. Only hand-tighten here because most shower heads are plastic and can break, and because you don't want to strip the threads on that shower arm. If that doesn't help, check that the shower head isn't already cracked, and check the gasket in the shower head that seals it to the arm.
Dripping from the face of the shower head when it's on. This is normal, as @isherwood commented. If it's severe then maybe some of the shower head's outlets have mineral blockages. Clean/soak with vinegar or CLR to unblock.
Dripping from the tub faucet after you've diverted water to the shower. Some dripping is probably normal depending on your shower fixture, most say a pencil-width stream is OK. If it's much more than that, or has gotten significantly worse over time, then the issue is likely worn gaskets in your diverter valve.

For more specific guidance, please identify your fixture brand and specific issue(s). Good luck!


Utility sink close to 220v dryer outlet We would like to put in a utility sink in between our washer and dryer and the 220v dryer outlet is about 6" to the right and 6" below the top of the sink. I know code doesn't require GFCI for this, 120 washer outlet is GFCI, but is this safe or common practice? Thanks.

It is very common to have outlets, even panels near sinks.  No biggie.

Remember the dryer is going to be plugged in 24/7 and not likely to be messed around with, so not unsafe.


Mixing White Paint into Ceiling Knockdown Mud I would like to knockdown a ceiling (newbie) and read that it is desirable to add white paint to drywall mud.  It seems reasonable that it would be preferable to have the color 'built-in' to the mud so that it never needs painting.  I do not know the color of drywall mud, but it would seem that it is not quite white

This is the desired outcome:

Is there a 'recipe' that provides for the amounts of water, paint, etc?

Bonus round: Is there a rule of thumb for estimating paint / drywall mud based on ceiling area to be covered?

Edits to this post that sharpen the question is appreciated.  Thank you

I have added paint to mud with mixed results. The mud dilutes the paint color making it hard to match areas that are not sprayed. I have had good luck adding primer to mudd that appeared to reduce the ussage of primer before painting but probably the total amount of primer was about the same. 1 note of caution. With straight mud overspray is really easy to clean when paint is added now cleanup of overspray is a bear. Calculating the amount of mud is hard to guess because we don't know if you want orange peal (a light texture) or a heavy plaster knock down look (heavy texture). Drywall mud usually drys chalk white, much like the center between the paper.


Bathroom subfloor replacement I live in a house built in 1981 that has 16 inch spaced floor joists.
In wanting to retile the bathroom I have discovered the plywood all around the toilet flange is junk,  it expands about 12 inches from flange.
It is dry, and so I am assuming the previous owners had a leak, re-tiled and moved on.    The wax ring under the toilet looked brand new.

Since the ply is so soft and flakey, I am trying to remove as much of the tile and backer board as I can and then come in with a rotary tool to cut out the rest so it is flush with the wall.
If the ply beneath the wall is bad I will attempt to replace that as well, but so far it looks ok.

My questions are as follows, because everyone appears to have an opinion that is in contrast to another.  Use short screws. NO! Use long nails.

The existing subfloor is 15/32 plywood.  I plan to use the same
thickness.  What length screw should I use to affix into the joists?
I have been told everything from 1 inch to 3 inches.  Would 1 ¾ inch
be sufficient?
Before I put down the subfloor or after, do I need to treat the ply with anything? Any water resistant coating or a vapor barrier?
Currently there is nothing.
When I take the next layer of plywood and put it down on to the subfloor should I use screws or nails? Again some advice is to use 1
inch nails every 6 inches.  Others advise use 1 ½ screws every 6
inches.   I have also been told to use liquid nails. While other
have said not to.
Spacing between wall and each piece of ply for both subfloor and secondary layer of ply ranges from 1/8 to 1/4 inch.   Any
suggestions?
When attaching backer board to plywood should I use nails or screws? What is a good length?

Maybe I am over thinking this, and maybe is just comes down to getting a sturdy piece of plywood, fix it down so it doesn’t squeak and move on.
But everyone has an opinion on nails vs. screws, length and spacing.

If you guys can provide some insight, advice, and opinions on the above situation I would be most grateful.

Thanks

1) Nails have much greater shear strength and are better than screws when that is a concern, for your application screws are fine. I would use 1 1/2" but 1 3/4" will work too.

2) No.

3) Screws are fine, long enough to grip tight.

4) 1/8" - 1/4" gap? No problem. If you are going to tile it won't matter at all, if it concerns you cover it with tile backer-board or trowel some tile mortar into the cracks.

5) I use screws because they are easier to seat flush by countersinking the heads. You cannot leave the heads sticking up (screw or nail), even a little, or you may end up with cracked tile.


What are the risk of floating a solid hardwood above grade floor using a clip system? I have been mired in this rabbit hole of picking a flooring for my new condo. I cannot glue or nail into concrete so I either I double floor it with plywood then hardood or I float. I have been reading how solid wood floors cannot be floated as commandment. Then I stumble across this company Junckers that offers a clip system that allows floating of hardwood over concrete
Junckers Clip System.

I wondering how bad things can get if I ensure proper expansion spacing and humidity control of an above grade floor. I will have a moisture barrier down as well.

I wanted to get opinion of this particular scenario and if anyone had any experience working with the Junckers system.

Thanks in advance.

A product called 'DRIcore' (or similar) would work. DRIcore comes as 2ft x 2ft tongue-and-groove panels made from OSB with a solid plastic bottom. You fit them/install them on top of your substrate (concrete in this case), and then the material they're made of can be nailed into.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DRIcore-7-8-in-x-2-ft-x-2-ft-DRIcore-Subfloor-Panel-CDGNUS750024024/202268752


How can I safely splice wires inside a lamp? I am making a Steampunk style lamp with black pipe.  My intention is to use three lamp sockets as part of the design.  I will have one cord coming out of the lamp as the plugin.  However, I am not sure the safest way to splice the wires inside the black pipe.  Tons of examples online of these Steampunk style lamps, but no information on safe wiring.

The requirements for luminaires (lamps, light fixtures) are in Section 410 of the NEC.  In particular, for mechanical strength, we should start with 410.38(A):

Tubing for Arms.  Tubing used for arms and stems where provided with cut
threads shall not be less than 1.02mm (0.040 in.) in thickness and, where
provided with rolled (pressed) threads, shall not be less than 0.64mm (0.025
in.) in thickness.  Arms and other parts shall be fastened to prevent turning.

Your black iron pipe should meet this requirement with ease -- most of it will be Schedule 40, which has plenty of wall thickness.  Just make sure that you have all joints securely tightened (wrench tight, not just finger tight)!
You will also need a bushing (or clamp) of some type to protect the cord from strain where it exits the pipe as per 410.44:

Cord Bushings. A bushing or the equivalent shall be provided where
flexible cord enters the base or stem of a portable lamp.  The bushing
shall be of insulating material unless a jacketed type of cord is
used.

Now, to what you asked about, which starts off in sections 410.22 through 410.24 and 410.28 of the Code.

Luminaire (Fixture) Wiring -- General.  Wiring on or within fixtures
shall be neatly arranged and shall not be exposed to physical damage.  Excess
wiring shall be avoided.  Conductors shall be arranged so that they are not
subjected to temperatures above those for which they are rated.
Polarization of Luminaires (Fixtures).  Luminaires (fixtures) shall be
wired so that the screw shells of lampholders are connected to the same
luminaire (fixture) or circuit conductor or terminal.  The grounded conductor,
where connected to a screw-shell lampholder, shall be connected to the screw
shell.
Conductor Insulation.  Luminaires (fixtures) shall be wired with
conductors having insulation suitable for the environmental conditions,
current, voltage, and temperature to which the conductors will be subjected.

This all should be obvious to you: don't cook, snag, stretch, or snake your wire, and use the right size -- as you mentioned three lampholders, we can presume that you're using medium base as that's what household light bulbs use, which leads us to a maximum of 300W, or roughly 2.5A of current -- 18AWG TFFN fixture wire can handle this with ease (its ampacity under the Code is 6A as per table 402.5), and is rated to 90 degrees C.  Also, wire up your lampholders correctly (reverse polarity lampholders are real people-zappers)!

Protection of Conductors and Insulation.
(A) Properly Secured.  Conductors shall be secured in a manner that does
not tend to cut or abrade the insulation.
(B) Protection through Metal.  Conductor insulation shall be protected
from abrasion where it passes through metal.
(C) Luminaire (Fixture) Stems. Splices and taps shall not be located
within luminaire (fixture) arms or stems.
(D) Splices and Taps.  No unnecessary splices or taps shall be made within
or on a luminaire (fixture).
FPN:  For approved means of making connections, see 110.14.
(E) Stranding.  Stranded conductors shall be used for wiring on luminaire
(fixture) chains and on other movable or flexible parts.
(F) Tension.  Conductors shall be arranged so that the weight of the
luminaire (fixture) or movable parts does not put tension on the conductors.

All in all -- this means you'll be splicing in the base of your lamp, and putting some sort of extra insulation in the pipe to prevent wires from rubbing against the pipe.  (If nothing else, a square or octagonal metal junction box would make a reasonable 'hub' for your lamp base.  Just attach the black iron pipe as if it were conduit, and put a blank metal faceplate on it to serve as a bottom piece.)  The extra insulation material will also get you compliance with 410.18(A):

(A) Exposed Conductive Parts.  Exposed metal parts shall be grounded or
insulated from ground and other conducting surfaces or be inaccessible to
unqualified personnel.  Lamp tie wires, mounting screws, clips, and decorative
bands on glass at least 38mm (1 1/2 in.) from lamp terminals shall not be
required to be grounded.

As to the FPN mentioning 110.14 (which is where the answer to your specific question is, the rest of this is for the next guy from Google who finds this post!), the relevant section is 110.14(B):

(B) Splices.  Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices
identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible
metal or alloy.  Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to
be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be
soldered.  All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be
covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with
an insulating device identified for the purpose.
(second paragraph of quote omitted as it is utterly irrelevant for this answer)

So, wirenuts or push-in connectors are the best idea here -- they're identified for the purpose (clearly!), provide their own insulating device, and are trivial to obtain.


Install New Attic Access Ladder Perpendicular to Joists I am trying to install a new access ladder to our attic, cutting a new hole etc. There's only one room in our 1038sq house (built in 1952) that will work, and after taking a closer look there is a water pipe that would interfere with the opening, were I to cut a new hole in that location, which would run parallel to the joists.
So it seems like my only other option is to cut a new hole and install the access ladder perpendicular to the joists, which means cutting probably 3 of the joists which are roughly 30-35ft long.
Based on most of the info I've found, you should ideally install the ladder parallel to the joists, only cutting one. But if I frame out the access correctly, is it a problem to install it perpendicular to the joists? The question is, how can I frame it correctly? I've only found this way of doing it:

Which would seem to entail adding two add new, in my case, 30-35ft joists to support the new cut. Is this correct, necessary and is there a better way to do it??

Yeah, You do not want to do as shown in the picture. Install the attic ladder/stairs in a way that it is parallel to the joists.
These units are often made so that they just fit between joists that are 24" on center. If your joists are such then this is great. If not they you have cut out one joist and frame in headers at each end of the opening to support the cut off joist at each end.
If the attic is under a peaked roof structure you want to place the attic/stair assembly such that the upper end of the attic ladder/stair is under the highest part of the peak. This may very well mean that the end of the lowered ladder assembly extends out toward the outside wall of the house on the eve side of the roof.


Can you skin over an existing roof deck that is breaking down? Working on reshingling my roof.  The roof deck turned out to be 3/8" plywood which is starting to break down due to the number of times the roof has been replaced.

The deck is not rotting out except for a few spots along the drip edge, which we are cutting out to replace.  The main issues are that you can hear the plywood cracking and feel it give under you as you walk around.  There have been several times we were afraid we were going to put a foot through it, though it has not happened yet.

The question is, can we just lay a second layer of  sheathing over the existing deck to stiffen things up?  We are thinking of nailing 7/16" OSB over the existing plywood and making sure the the joints between the layers do not line up.

Anyone aware of code or other issues inherent in this approach?  I have not been able to locate anything that addresses this point.

We are located a bit south of Saint Louis, roof pitch is 5 in 12 if that makes a difference.

It hard to say without seeing the structure but it sounds like the decking was under engineered for the weight of asphalt shingles to begin with. You could put the OSB overtop but by the time, you clean that surface up (pull nails, etc) and adhere the new surfaces together, you might as well strip it.

You're also leaving extra weight on the roof and if you are already feeling degradation between the rafters, you may ultimately end up with the same problem just thicker.

If you are going to go with asphalt, you might want to upgrade to at least 7/16th OSB depending on your rafter spacing.


Leaking gutter down pipe/elbow junction I noticed a leak at the joint  of  a down pipe and An-elbow, yet rain water flows through the down pipe as expected but quite a large amount of water is dripping (I outlined with red on the photo).
There is an incline (so that water flows down), no holes in pipes. I tightened the connection but still for whatever reason it drips.
I looks to me that rain water traps in between the sloped pipe and the elbow and starts dripping to get its way out.
Any suggestions on what else I can improve to fix this?

When mine leaked from a similar location, it was from the screw. Typically, they use self-tapping screws to hold the pieces together. Since this is just thin aluminum, the interior piece gets pushed up as the screw taps through, and/or it leaves a jagged piece so water can get out.
All I did to fix it was to smear the bottom surface of the upper pipe with a generous glob of silicone caulk, slide it in, and replace the screw again.


Outside faucet repair do I need to replace the entire faucet or just install a handle?  It looks corroded inside.

In general, if you are missing some parts of a faucet or valve, you will have to replace the whole thing. You should not expect the core from one faucet to fit the body of another. Each manufacturer, usually for each model, makes the body, core screw, compression nut, handle, etc. to fit together in a unique way.

The only dimensional standard is the soft washer and the seat that it presses against, and even these are made in several sizes and materials.

Sometimes you can get lucky and find in a hardware store a new faucet of the exact same make and model as the one you're trying to fix. Then you can take it apart and use some of the pieces for your repair, which saves the labor of replacing the entire thing. But you're not going to be able to buy parts for a faucet or valve, except for the rubber washer.


How close can light fixtures be to fire sprinkler heads? I'm planning to add several rows of fluorescent light fixtures in my garage, which has partly recessed fire sprinkler heads.  Does code specify how close fixtures can be to the sprinklers?

Common sense says the lights should not block the sprinklers, but I'm not sure how far that really would mean.  The light fixtures I would like to use are about 4" tall.

Finally, if surface mounting lights nearby is an issue with code, what about recessed lights?

I was able to track down the relevant code document for residential sprinker installations - it's 2010 NFPA 13D, section 8.2.5.2, and it's actually viewable online for free if you register your email address.  There is a different code for commercial buildings.  For this issue at least, the residential requirements are much more strict.

The residential code says pendant sprinklers must be at least 3 ft from obstructions such as ceiling fans and lights (as measured from their centers), or you can use this table which relates A) the distance from the sprinkler to the near edge of the obstruction and B) height of the sprinkler's deflector above the bottom of the obstruction.

ceiling----------------------------------------------
              |                  *               *
  sprinkler  -+-      ---        *  obstruction  *
                       B         *               *
                      ---        *****************

              |<----    A   ---->|

---------------    --------------
Distance A (ft)    Maximum B (in)
---------------    --------------
up to 1.5          0
1.5 - 3            1
3 - 4              3
4 - 4.5            5
4.5 - 6            7


Can I vent a basement bathroom into a semi-enclosed crawlspace under an attachment? I'm refinishing my basement bathroom and installing a vent. I can easily vent out to this wall, but the thing I'm worried about is it's semi-enclosed. In the winter we put up tarps and store wood here, in the summer we keep garden tools here. Should I have anything to worry about in this? Is the moisture hittig the cold air there going to condense and leak back inside or anything? Am I going to get unexpected results that are going to make me hate myself for thinking it could be so easy? Additionally, I was wondering if I could just continue the duct work along the floor joists of this attachment and put the vent all the way on the exterior wall? We've been using that space to store 2x4s as you can see in the photo, but I can spare some for a duct. I'm just concerned that the pipe will get cold and when hot wet air is pumped through it, I'll have water buildup in the duct. Another option I have is venting it under the outside stairs, but that's very similar to letting it out under the attachment

The warmer air exhausted from the bath entering a cold environment will condense and create moisture. It will create high humidity which will lead to mold growth. this will become a health issue as well as rot the wood. You want to vent it to outdoors, never indoors.


How can I determine the start up amps on a 3 phase 5 ton A/C unit? I am trying to properly size a home generator and my concern is the start up amps on a 5 ton AC unit (15 years old R22 Goodwin type). My home power is unique because we have 3 phase (the AC is on 3 phase breaker). I think the line to line voltage is around 240 and the line to ground approx 120 but the stinger leg (whatever you call it) is approx 207V to ground. The generator folk say 118 amps start up but that seem high to me not sure if he is just multiplying the steady state amps or what? Can you tell me how to determine it?

For a hermetic compressor (what you most likely have in a unit of that size and vintage) -- the answer you seek is right on the compressor's nameplate, marked as "LRA", "Locked-Rotor Amps", under a "Locked Rotor" field, or in a similar fashion, as per NEC 440.4(A):

  The locked-rotor current of each single-phase motor-compressor having a
  rated-load current of more than 9 amperes at 115 volts, or more than 4.5
  amperes at 230 volts, and each polyphase motor-compressor shall be marked
  on the motor-compressor nameplate.

If you, somehow, have a compressor that uses an external motor drive, check the motor nameplate for the information from 430.7(B) point 8:

  (8) Code letter or locked-rotor amperes if an alternating-current motor
  rated 1/2 hp or more. On polyphase wound-rotor motors, the code letter
  shall be omitted.

(You'll also need Table 430.7(B) to interpret the code letters if your motor is marked that way.)


Repaint masonry window sill Our house has a Victorian bay window and what appears to be chunky masonry/concrete window sills. They look like they are painted with some form of gloss which has become flaky and green over the years.

I want to repaint it and after either stripping or sanding I want to know what paint to use. I was going to buy some good quality masonry paint to use to paint the walls of our house (combination of brick/render) and wonder if I can use the same paint on the windows sills?

But masonry paint sometimes looks thinner than gloss paint and I wondered if should I buy some proper masonry gloss paint (if that exists?)

Thanks.

Acrylic/Latex: Because concrete is porous, a water-based or acrylic primer is more likely to soak into the concrete than an oil-based primer, bonding to the substrate and allowing the paint to grip the surface. These primers will also reduce the dust on interior concrete.


How to disassemble a pop-up trip lever drain in tub? My tub has a pop-up trip lever drain like this:

My tub is clogged; the water drains but very slowly. I tried to use an auger to clean it out but can't get past the spring.

How do I disassemble the pop-up trip lever drain so I can remove the clog?

My pop-up sink drain had a similar problem.  I finally figured out that the top screws off the stem like the cap of a mushroom.  I had to show it who's boss and that I meant business, but it finally unscrewed and I was able to clean the drain.

You may also find that if you take the handle out, the spring is clogged with hair (that used to happen to me as well.)


How do I put a hole in my chainsaw bar? I have a Stihl chainsaw with the ROLLOMATIC E Standard 20" bar:

I picked up a Granberg Clip-N-Trim attachment, to help it go through brush:

The instructions say to bolt the comb to the bar. I see a circle in the bar about 6" from the end. Is it a knockout? Or a grease fitting?

Should I try to drill a hole through? I've heard that it's really hard, because the bars are made of hardened steel. Where would the hole go? I don't want to interfere with the nose sprocket, obviously. Or maybe I should find an alternate bar, just for this purpose.

I'm not familiar with that particular bar, so can't tell you anything about that spot. However, if you intend to drill anywhere on the bar a normal drill bit is not only going to fail, it's going to get damaged trying.

If a drill is your only option you need to get a masonry bit and regrind the point to about the same shape and angle as a regular bit. Use an Aluminium Oxide wheel for that. Drill at a slow speed without applying too much force, preferable using plenty of cutting oil because otherwise the tip can easily get hot enough to melt the brazing.

An alternative to drilling is to use a carbide burr in a pencil grinder.


How do I build an ice rink in my backyard? I'm considering building a small temporary ice skating rink in my backyard. I'm hoping to do this without buying many or any materials, and without causing any devastating damage to my lawn when spring rolls around.

Does anyone have any suggestions/experience/techniques for building a good quality skating rink at home?

Some things that might be relevant:

The ground is thick grass and fairly lumpy.
Temperature is conducive to making ice, we get some days around 0°C (32°F), but most are under -10°C (14°F).
Ground is mostly even, although slightly sloped on one side of the yard.
Lot next door is lower than mine and vacant, providing a convenient spot to drain to in the spring.

Here is a photo of my yard and the approximate dimensions I'm going for (built with tentative snow walls). I'm going for a skating oval, with a larger piece in front and the fire pit and bench in the middle.

I've been making a rink in my yard for over 20 years. I don't use plastic or boards. To my mind that gives you the nasty task of getting up wet muddy stuff in the spring, putting it away somewhere etc. We use nothing but snow and water to build our rink, and we can have it whatever size and shape we want as a result. When the rink melts, it melts, and the lawn never shows any signs of stress.

First, wait until you have good snow cover and you're confident it isn't going to melt away on a warm day. For us, Boxing Day (Dec 26th for those in the States) is the traditional rink-starting day. If the snow is "packing snow" we can stomp as is; if not we put a spray attachment on the hose and spray water on it as we go. Working in squares about 8 feet on a side, and wearing thick heavy boots (visitors in delightful city boots with narrow pointy heels don't get to help, or get to borrow boots) we just stomp down the damp snow into almost-ice, walking over the same sections again and again to eliminate the holes and ridges from the time before.

This packed snow won't hold water indefinitely like plastic, but it will hold it long enough to freeze, especially if you water lightly at first and keep the hose moving. Use a spray nozzle.

The hose is hooked up inside the house (you can use your laundry sink tap, which almost certainly is threaded to take a hose - we have a takeoff on a tank in the utility room that our well pump trickle-fills) and comes inside after each watering. Also, use brass nozzles on the hose end - plastic will shatter when you drop the hose, especially on hard ice. This is discussed more, with pictures, in a Gardening question. Buy warm work gloves at a building-supply store, too, so you can turn the nozzle on and off even when water is coming out of it. Rink-making is pretty much the only time I wear my adult snow pants (sold as ski or snowmobile pants.)

We usually start by stomping just 3 or 4 squares. Then each night we add one new square and water all the old ones. This way, part of the rink becomes usable in a week or so. The minute it looks like ice, skate on it. Skating on lumpy ice is like sanding it - you'll cut off the ridges and give the water a place to stick. The only time it's bad to skate on it is if you might make a giant hole and let the water escape. If that happens, pack the hole with snow and carry on.

After a while you might not need to water every night, but we generally do. The colder it is, the more often you can water. Above -5 (all temps are C) leave it alone. -10, you can water once each night. -15, you can do it twice, three times if you stay up late. -20, you can do it as often as you can stand. Shovel off any snow, get everyone out there to skate, then clean up with a quick scrape of the snow shovel, water, and go to bed. It's a peaceful time, outside in the quiet and the cold. (We have Christmas lights up around the edge of the rink for when folks skate in the evenings, but I often just water by moonlight and starlight. Heaven.) Every mm of ice you build up on cold nights is that much longer your rink will last in the spring.

The only maintenance other than shoveling and watering is keeping dark debris off the surface. A large, partly rotted leaf, for example, can melt its way completely through the ice on a warm spring day, and then there's a hole for water to escape. Pick that sort of thing up if you see it, or cover it with a little handful of patted down snow. You can't get it perfect (especially not on a rink the size of ours with trees all around it) but you can make a difference.

We lift the shovel carefully as we clear snow to make the edges, and we water those too which hardens them enough to mostly keep pucks out. We have over a hundred pucks (gathered by a bored younger brother hanging at the arena during years of skating lessons) so if a few go into the snow we don't worry, we can gather them in the spring. You can also water the hillside if you have older children who can handle it. The non-flatness of the lawn is a feature - beginners can be put at the top of a slight slope to give them a boost, and coming up that slight slope slows you a little before you need to turn.

It's less work than you think, and incredibly rewarding. Ours is at the bottom of a hill so it also adds fun to tobogganing, but the real point is that anyone can skate any time, for 10 or 15 min if that's all they want, or all evening, and you can have skating parties. It doesn't really take any skill or equipment other than the hose and a snow shovel.

Minor update: if you have a child who takes skating lessons, buy a second set of skates for home. Used skates are best anyway, because it's a rare child who manages to break in skates with just 3 or 4 hours of skating a week, but no matter what level your child is at, buy some used skates for home. Also, some moves may not be ok to practice at home (either due to a small rink or to the skate difference.) You want to sharpen the arena skates and the home skates differently - a good sharpener will ask, but if they don't you should offer. The home skates will go dull faster because they are not on such smooth ice, and there might be the odd pine needle or whatnot on the ice. Also, at least at my house, the home skates got more usage.


Hanging things on metal studs My house has metal studs (South Florida) and I cannot figure out how to easily get screws into the studs for hanging things such as curtains. I have tried the pilot hole approach with a titanium drill but I still need my husband strength to get the hole made and it takes forever.

I’ve tried every type of self tapping metal screw they sell. Is there a screw that will make hanging things that require going into the metal studs (but not necessarily really heavy like a tv) easy?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Living in South Florida I know exactly what you mean about the metal studs. What has worked for me is starting out with a very small drill bit and moving up to the size you finally need. The best screws to me are drywall screws if you can stand the black appearance and the head sticking out a bit. You can usually start them out with a whack of a hammer and don't even need to drill. Good luck.


Why won't my propane boiler's pilot stay lit after replacing the thermocouple? The pilot on my propane boiler won't stay lit for more than 30 minutes even after replacing the thermocouple and outside gas valves.  The inside gas valve was replaced two years ago.  Service people are stumped and it is cold!  It is a Crown Boiler.

If the thermocouple is new, and we assume that it's good, then I'd wonder if it's positioned correctly? I don't know how your boiler is, with some of them you can re-position the TC with respect to the pilot, and it might be too far away.

On a similar vein, are you sure it's locked in place and can't move? For instance, if it could vibrate around a bit, it might be moving too far away and therefore getting confused and cutting the gas.


Do I need to replace the junction box when changing LED downlight I have 4 LED downlights in my bedroom that I want to swap out for some internet enabled ones.
I wasn't the one to install them so I don't know the make/model of them.
I took one out to have a look and they connect like the one shown below (same white connector and junction box), but I can't get the junction box out to check a brand or anything.
Question: If I get different light with the same connector, could I simply unplug the current ones and replace them without installing a new box, or is that not possible?

No, that's very unlikely to work, even if you do manage to find another one with the same connector.
The box you're looking at is not just a junction box, it's also the power supply for the LEDs - and it's specific to the type and number of LEDs in the fixture.


How do I install vapor-retarder underlayment paper under vinyl floor planks? Do I overlap the sheets of paper or are the seams supposed to lay flat against each other? Is it okay to use nails to hold it down, or does it have to be stapled?  Can I use silicone to seal the seams?

We usually staple down the flooring paper just enough to keep it from shifting, then flatten the staples with a hammer or the back of the stapler. We overlap the rows by about 4 inches and tape the seams with Tyvec tape.


GFCI keeps tripping from garbage disposal I’m having a problem with a GFCI outlet that keeps tripping all of a sudden.  I installed a garbage disposal and GFCI outlet under my sink seven years ago.  The last few days every time I use the garbage disposal, GFCI will trip ~3-4s. later and flash red two times.  I’m able to reset the outlet, but only to trip again if I use the disposal.

I’ve no clue why it’s tripping after seven years with no problem.  Should I replace the outlet or is there something wrong with the disposal?

Thank you in advance!

Assuming that there is no other electric device connected to that GFCI - also not via a downstream/"load" outlet:

There might be a safety issue with that disposal, so taking care of the danger of electricity is mandatory.

Connecting the disposal to another GFCI outlet via an extension cable could disclose whether the disposal or the GFCI is defect.

The disposal or metal sink or other conducting material in connection with the disposal should not be touched, i.e. it should be switched on and the last step should be to plug in the extension cord into another GFCI outlet.
To stop this test, the first step should be to unconnect the plug of the extension cord.

After some years, the electric isolation of the disposal could get worse due to humidity, dust, vibrations, grease/oil, acid etc.

The test button of the GFCI might show no problem, but that button can not test an over-sensitivity.


How can I remove the drain flange from the drain assembly? From picture 1, it looks like the flange can be separated from the drain body. In picture 2 while holding the drain body from the bottom of the sink, I tried to remove the flange with a plier by twisting the flange counterclockwise. The flange did not budge. In picture 3, it shows that there’s a protrusion for the lift rod that prevents me from lifting the drain body straight up. I don’t have a power saw. It seems impossible to remove the drain body and put in a new one. What can I do at this point?

Buy or make a close quarters hacksaw.  If it has a pistol style handle, turn it around so it's opposite the teeth.  Carefully cut a slit in the flange, then grab the flange with pliers just as in your second picture, crumple it in on itself and push it down through the hole.

While you're working on this cover the drain tube with a sandwich bag using a rubber band to hold it on, to prevent sewer gases entering the room.


How do I remove this cabinet drawer? I have a bathroom cabinet drawer that needs to be removed so I can repair the bottom. I can't figure out how to remove it. What do I push or pull to get it out?

This is the drawer fully extended:

A close up, fully extended:

A close up, pushed in a bit. Note the pointy black plastic piece is now inside the slide. Note also the button at the left edge of the T. No amount of pushing in the button while sliding the drawer in and out unlatched it:

The pointy thing does go up and down, but I couldn't get anything to release by moving it.

Push up on the pointy thing and pull on the drawer.  see details here


Woodstain to 'weather-proof' pine? I have some cheap pine shelves that I plan to put outside on the balcony to grow some herbs. To 'weather-proof' it, I've bought some clear woodstain. I decided on wood stain because it was recommended to me by the home center staff. But watching some YouTube videos this morning, someone said wood stain does not provide any protection against the elements. So I'm now wondering if I bought the right stuff.

If it is, I believe a light sand, wood stain, another light sand and a second layer of wood stain, will be sufficient? Do I need anything else?

Wood stain is used to color the timber, it may also be designed to offer some protection from sunlight.

However, if the timber is outside in the sun, wind, rain and snow then another protection will be needed. One is varnish and I tend to find the (more expensive) yacht varnish most hardy. But nature is relentless...


Are misplaced, unused anchor bolts a problem? In the garage wall at the front porch there are two anchor bolts not installed in the wall. You can actually see the anchor bolts.

The whole wall is 3 degrees off from concrete slab, I guess it was measured incorrectly. 1/4 of the wall is barely standing on the concrete.

This is brand new house we built just finished inspection yesterday.
How do we know the builder will fix it right way? Will this be a serious issue?

Sloppy workmanship aside (could have been the mason or the carpenters), this probably isn't a serious issue. Anchor bolts are most critical in tornado and earthquake zones, but there are usually many installed, and a few that miss won't substantially increase the chance of disaster.

The builder should at least cut them off neatly, flush with the concrete. They're ugly and a bit of a safety concern. If they won't do that, you can do so with a metal-cutting blade in a reciprocating saw or hack saw.

As a resolution I'd ask whether new bolts were drilled into the foundation when it was discovered that the wall would miss the original bolts. If not, you'll have to decide whether to pursue the matter in a legal sense.


How can I determine what is emitting chemical fumes in my home? Our home is a reconstructed 1890's log home moved and rebuilt in the late 70's or early 80's. They used 1 inch thick styrofoam board in the ceiling under the pine tongue and groove. I think it is the foam board that is off gassing. There is no plastic vapor barrier. How can I narrow down the odor. Is there any information about off gassing of the light weight insulation - It looks like  tiny Styrofoam balls pressed lightly together to make the boards.

I doubt if it’s the styrofoam you’re smelling. It’s probably the chinking, especially if you’ve reinstalled or touched up lately.

All of the chinking manufacturers caution against touching, rubbing, etc. because of skin irritations and caution about inhalation.


Loose Blade, Tight Arbor Bolt I have a circular saw with an overly tightened arbor bolt and a blade that spins freely>  How can I get that repaired?   This saw was one that I inherited from my dad and I need to use it for some up and coming projects.

If "the bolt is tight, but the blade is loose" something is not assembled correctly, (missing or improperly positioned arbor washer) or you have the wrong blade (too thin) for the saw. Or perhaps you are a repeat of putting a round-hole saw blade on a saw designed for a diamond-shaped hole.


Water flow over basement window sill The sidewalk going around my house was poured very close to the edge of the basement window. The slab has sunk and water no pools against the house in that area. If we get a torrential rainfall, the water will pool up and over the wind ledge and then starts to seep through the old window onto the window sill in the basement. The sill is only about 1.5" up from the sidewalk. Any thoughts on how to stop the water from flowing through the screen? I know the simple answer would be to fix the grade of the cement, but right now I can't find a company that can help for various reasons. So I am trying to at least find a solution to the window ledge until I can find a long-term solution. Any help please!

Short term solution: use solid concrete blocks and polyurethane caulk (like you have between the sidewalk and house.) to build a dam in front of the window. Blocks ar available in various sizes and you could use some 8" ones on edge to build an 8" dam if you think it needs to be that tall.

Long term solution: remove part of the sidewalk and install a drain that diverts the water elsewhere.

Good luck!


How should I wire 2 switches that control 1 light and 1 receptacle? Last winter I pulled power into an attic. I put in a 2 gang box with 2 switches. One switch controls a light in the attic and works fine. The second controls an outlet and I realized months later that power is always on, the switch has no affect.

I had used some wiring books and made up the wiring diagram myself, so I'm guessing I have something wired incorrectly? I have black, white and ground in the power coming in and power to light and black, red, white and ground in the power to the switched outlet. If I need to pull the outlet to diagram how it's wiring I can do that. Here is what I have in the box for the switches:

EDIT: I'd like the whole outlet to work on the switch, nothing continuous.

Edit to add a photo of why I wired the receptacle the way I did. Changing it to the solution check-marked below worked.

You forgot to break the tab off on the outlet.

You want the red line to control one half the duplex?   And the Black to feed the other continuously?   There's a little copper tab between the hot screws that you remove to do this.


Duct static pressure vs ambient air pressure I've read that air handlers are typically rated for 0.5 iwc. Doing a simple conversion, this comes out to about 125 Pa. Is this with reference to the ambient air pressure? So, if I had an absolute pressure sensor, I guess the air handler would begin to get damaged if the pressure at the ducts was x + 125 Pa, where x is the ambient air pressure? Also, it seems strange to me that the rating is for static pressure, rather than total pressure. Does velocity pressure really not affect the air handler's health?

However, the main question I have is how is it possible that the duct static pressure can be different from the ambient air pressure? Suppose I measure the pressure in the duct, right before the register and if the register is open, then the air pressures on either side of the duct should be equal. Even if the register is closed, unless there is a perfect seal, air from one side can escape to the other, so air pressure should be equal as well. Do correct me if my common sense is completely busted. Or should the measurement be performed at the air handler?

PS: Any other HVAC resources on static pressure will be greatly appreciated

The fan in an air handler is typically stated to have a flow rate at a given static pressure (e.g. page 7 of the Lennox CBX25UH air handler specifications here). In my experience, almost all pressures in HVACR are stated in terms of gauge pressure; as you suspected, 0.5 in w.c. is a gauge pressure (generally noted as in w.g.). Some fan flow rates are stated in terms of total static pressure, where the evaporator, heater core, filter, duct friction loss, diffuser pressure drop, etc. contribute and must be taken into account when sizing the blower package.

The higher the external static pressure, the lower the air flow rate--the system pressure is a measure of resistance to the flow created by the fan. For external static pressure, the major contributors are friction loss in the duct work and at the diffuser. CaptiveAire (an exhaust hood manufacturer) has a good explanation of total, static, and velocity pressure here. The ASHRAE fundamentals handbook also has an extensive section on duct work, but unfortunately is not freely available online--you may be able to find a copy at your local library or an older version at a discount book store (the duct chapter has not changed much for this purpose).

The fan creates a low pressure region on one side (return) and a high pressure region on the other (supply). If you have a very large static pressure (i.e. high friction), you will have a low resulting velocity pressure and low resulting air flow rate. To simplify design, manufacturers state the fan's capacity to overcome a given static pressure with a resultant flow rate. Unless your static pressure is so large that the fan stalls or operates outside of its stable region (see this page on fan curves), you will not damage the air handler, but you will reduce the air flow rate and waste energy.

Assuming you are using a device which can measure the static and dynamic/velocity pressure (e.g. pitot tube), you will ideally have a constant total pressure at all parts of the system (this concept is part of Bernoulli's principle, pressure drop due to friction does represent energy loss and is added to one side of the equation when comparing two states). In your scenario, the diffuser represents an obstruction to the flow, so you will have a higher static pressure and lower velocity pressure before the diffuser. The region outside of the diffuser is at a lower pressure relative to the duct, so the energy represented by the static pressure component becomes part of the velocity component, resulting in a greater fluid velocity. If you were to close all of the diffusers, you would create a very large static pressure on the supply side of the system and would lower the flow rate. You can measure pressure at any point in the system and will get the same total pressure (minus energy loss due to friction). Immediately at the supply side of the air handler, the energy (and pressure) is highest, near the diffuser, you have experienced some energy loss due to friction.

For diagnostic purposes, it can be useful to measure pressure along the supply side to determine if you have excess friction loss or, more commonly, duct leakage.


Why isn't the water on my second story getting as hot as I'd like? I purchased a new whirlpool water heater about 2 months ago. I have a
two story house, their seems to be a good hot water to the first floor faucets
but it seems like it takes a long time for the hot water to get to the second
floor, then it doesn't get hot enough. What could be my problem?

The change in water heaters should not have affected any of the physics of how the hot water travels through your home. Water will take just as long to travel through the pipes to the second floor as before, and it will lose a similar amount of heat along the way.

My guess is that your new water heater is set to a lower temperature than your old one. Water heater manufacturers and plumbers are more sensitive to scalding danger now than they used to be. The current recommendations are generally not to exceed 125*F.

You probably have a preference for how "hot" you want the water coming out of your faucet to be for washing your hands, maybe it's around 120*F. You mix hot and cold water at the faucet to reach this temperature.

I'm sure you've experienced that when you turn on the shower or the faucet to "hot," the water starts cool and at some point it starts gradually warming up, until it reaches some maximum temperature (this maximum temperature likely varies around the house--the facuets furthest from the heater will have a lower maximum temperature than those close to the heater, as some heat is lost from the pipes along the way).

It can take quite a while from when the water first starts warming until it reaches full temperature--you not only have to get water from the water heater to the faucet, but you must heat up all the pipes along the way before you reach steady state. This can take minutes. The hot water is often much hotter when you're done washing a sink load of dishes than when you started.

If your old water heater had been set to a higher temperature, say 140*F, the water will reach your desired temperature of 120*F a bit quicker than your new water heater, if your new water heater is set to 125*F.  With your new water heater, you need to get almost all the way to the setpoint of 125*F before you reach your desired temperature of 120*F. This takes some time.

Therefore, you might try adjusting the setpoint of your new water heater, but be aware that the risk of scalding is serious, especially with young children or the elderly. See The Burn Foundation for more information.


How do I cover/repair this piece of my bath tub? See the attached pictures. I'm short on ideas how to cover or replace this piece. I can't afford a full tub replacement right now so that is out of the question. Thanks

Looks like someone slapped wood on it (with tape???) and the inevitable happened.

What I would do is pry the wood off and install a piece of PVC trim or planking (gluing would be the best option here but be sure to get one that supports vinyl), then use a siliconized latex caulk to seal it up.


Can indoor cable be run through an exterior wall and into a disconnect box? I’m running 6/3 NM cable from my breaker box inside the house through the studs and then exiting to the outside to tie into a spa disconnect box.

Can I have the cable come straight out of the wall and tie into the back of the disconnect box on the exterior wall?

It depends on the jurisdiction. NM-B cable is not ok for exterior wiring, but a receptacle inset in a wall is 100% ok.

If the box is NEMA 3r rated it may be allowed even as a surface mount. If it is not, cut a hole the size of the box and inset it in the wall then it would be legal again. The box needs to be 3r rated.

It may sound silly but a flush mount box can be inset (I have done this with main panels). At first the inspector was going to red tag it, but when he saw the back of the box was inside the siding he was ok. I have done this several times in the last ~2 years. My boss likes the look better than flush mount but they are a pain in the butt to feed for a main.


Can I put my pressure tank over 200’ from the well head? I want to winterize my system which means me moving the pressure tank 200’ to a heated structure. Will this cause any problems I should be aware or plan for?

Should not be a problem. Pressure tanks are best located in or near the structure served, not near the well-head.
Mine is ~400 feet of pipe from the pump (300 up and 100 or so sideways.)


Can I replace a drop-in sink with a counter-top mounted sink? Would it work to remove a drop-in sink and replace it with a top mounted sink?

I'm thinking that now work would need to be done to the counters themselves besides attaching the new sink. The original hole for the drop-in sink would be covers by the new sink.

Are there any problems with this plan?

The final project would look something like this:

Al long as it covers the old cutout and the original top is strong enough to carry the weight, there will be no problem. Vessel sinks are usually held in place by the drain to a degree and sealed at the base with a good grade of caulk. Yours is heavy enough, if it is the same bulk as the one pictured, its weight alone will keep it in place, but please seal it down with a good water based, mildew proof caulk.


How can I install a Honeywell Wifi RTH6580WF1001 thermostat in place of a Honeywell RTH2300b? I have separate heating (hot water) and air handler (cooling System). The current thermostat I'm using is a Honeywell RTH2300B and the new one I want to install is a Honeywell Wifi RTH6580WF1001.

The current system allows me to toggle between heat and cooling and so will the new one but the old thermostat didn't require a common wire but the New one does. Both systems have 24 volt power and I have an extra wire that I can use for that but the question is witch system do I take The 24 volt power from.

I would like to take it from my boiler as it is also my water heater so it is powered on all year round but I can leave power to my air handler on also.

The Green -G wire goes to the G on the Air Handler
The Yellow -Y  wire goes to the Y terminal on the Air Handler.
The White -W wire goes to a zone valve on the Boiler.
The Red-R wire goes to a zone valve on the Boiler.
The Brown -Rc Terminal wire goes to the R terminal on the Air Handler.

Can anybody help me?

Honeywell thermostats (also Nest, and probably others) require the C wire to come from the cooling system, in systems that have multiple transformers.


Wire type coming directly into outdoor box from indoors I need to rewire an outdoor box for camera + light and I will have the cable go from inside the house directly into the box outside. IOW, the point where it exits the house will be directly the point where it enters the box, so the cable will not be exposed outside. The box is weather proof, ie should not leak because it has a gasket.

Do I still need to use outdoor grade cable or can I just use regular Romex NM?

It's commonly done and gotten away with.

But. It's also wrong - Any outside box or conduit should be treated as if it will be full of water - even "perfectly waterproofed" things will fill up with condensation, unless you go to the bother of pressurizing them with dry gas and maintaining that dry gas pressure.

Code is clear on outside conduit, perhaps less so on outside boxes not fed by conduit, which might be why it's gotten away with in terms of inspections.

Have some delivered, or go to the store.


How can I completely shut off / inert my home alarm system? I am asking more-or-less the same question as in this post: How can I disconnect power to an ADT alarm system?

The house has an ADT alarm installed by its previous owner. I am not paying for monitoring, so I see no real value in it. It has become a nuisance lately because there are battery-powered smoke detectors which signal back to the system, as I've recently discovered, do so on low battery.

I've attached some pictures to help with specifics. As it appears to me, the unit normally draws power from an A/C adapter next to the box, but also has a backup battery. My question: can I simply disconnect both, or would there be other power sources to feed the system's noise makers?

I'm wondering about the control panels... I assume they are hard-wired, but would they have their own internal back-up power or operate solely from their connection to the main unit?

This is one of two control panels (both are identical in appearance):

Manual cover page to identify the specific model:

Note that it would be dangerous to go without some compliant smoke alarm system - in the comments, @Anthony X indicates there are other smoke detectors / smoke alarms present.

I'd say it's 99%+ that the battery and power supply are the only two sources for the system and if you unplug them it will be down.  You might as well unplug the phone line connection on the right too.

Be sure to test the remaining smoke alarms, and make sure the system alarms as it should, and that there are still working smoke alarms in all the necessary areas.  At a minimum, you want one in every bedroom, and in the hallways outside of the bedromms, and make sure there's one on every floor of the house - including the basement.

I would probably check out all the existing smoke detectors and replace them with something current.  Smoke alarms don't last forever, I'd rest easier if I knew what I have and had confidence that it works as it should.


Should I install an indoor or outdoor sump pump, or both? I have a full basement in a cold climate (North Dakota).   The previous owner had a raw hole broken out of the cement floor that must have served as an emergency sump pump hole.  We haven't had water in 8 years and did landscaping around the house to slope water away from house.  Due to Radon issues, we filled and sealed the hole and finished the installed a subfloor with Dry Core in the event of moisture in the basement.  This year we have a really high water table and water is in the basement - had to rip up carpet, etc.   Now I am wondering if I should break through the floor again to install a sump pump.  A contractor said he could do an outdoor sump pump for us, but I do not have an electrical source nearby, which will raise the costs and headache.  I am also uncertain if the cold climate will require me to remove the pump every year or what kind of hassles are associated with an outdoor sump pump.   What would you do?  Start over in the basement or put in an outdoor pump.  My Radon mitigation system is also a worry if we install a pump inside the house-- not sure how this will effect the deal.

I wouldn't even consider one or the other... both.

An outdoor sump pump in our could climate (I'm in Minnesota) is a real pain in the neck. A good friend of mine has one in his old house and he has to bring it in every winter and put it back out when the snow starts melting, which often means a few hours digging to find the top of the sump pit, then every couple days checking and adjusting the position of the pump as the solid ice on the bottom of the pit melts. Worse was the year it melted, then re-froze with the pump in it... I recall he had a number of very unpleasant things to say about it the next day at work. ;)

Depending on your levels of radon, the mitigation could be pretty simple. Several of my co-workers have a small bathroom exhaust fan in the utility room where there sump is located that ducts out of the house. It's on a timer that runs it for X minutes every Y hours, depending on what the levels were in their house. Most of us agreed that that was better than having to deal with flooded basements every few years.


How can I replace a glass shade on my bathroom vanity? I was cleaning and caught my duster on my bathroom vanity light fixture.  I must have pulled a bit too hard to release the duster because I managed to pull one of the frosted glass shades off the vanity.

How can I find who the manufacturer of the fixture is so I can try to find a replacement shade?  Where is the manufacturer information stamped on a light fixture such as this?

You have three possibilities, not counting replacing the fixture and or striking out.  I've been dealing with lighting manufactures for over 25 years and it is surprising how little information they put on their fixtures.  It's probably that way to keep out of lawsuits in case of something failing.

Take a matching shade to a lighting store and see if they have it.  If not consider replacing all the shades with one that they stock.  The good thing about it is that if another breaks you know where to get a replacement.
Turn off the breaker (not just the light switch) take the fixture off the wall or ceiling and look for a sticker on it with the manufactures name on it.  This will get you pointed to the correct web site that you can find the fixture part number.  There might be a contact number for the country you are in and you can call them find a replacement.
Here's the Sherlock Holmes version and the last resort.  Turn off the breaker (not just the light switch) take the fixture off the wall or ceiling and find the UL sticker for it.  When you find that look for a number that has an 'e' in front of it like e223973.  Now go the UL Online Certifications Directory  Enter the UL number and it should give you the manufacturer.  Hopefully the stars will be aligned and you will find everything you need.

If you are lucky like me and live in a track house, remember the electrical went to the lowest bidder and cheap fixtures and manufacturers come and go.

The third sounds the most fun, but the 1st is the most practical and you can have a new fixture just by changing the shades.  Getting shades shipped is hit or miss on getting it not broken, and postal, UPS or Fedex or ??? does not insure glass.  Also if you do find it on the internet, there is always the possibility that the design or neck has been modernized and will not match or fit what you have.


Should I use a GFCI or AFCI circuit breaker with knob and tube wiring? My American house was built in 1942, and much of the wiring is still knob-and-tube wiring (2-wire, no ground). Over the years new modern wiring has been added to the house, but we still have some KnT wiring for the ceiling lights, and a few branch circuits, etc. We are planning to replace the KnT wiring when we have the budget to do so. I have replaced many of the receptacles on the KnT circuits with GFCI receptacles to provide added protection, which is recommended.

I have seen AFCI and GFCI circuit breakers which plug into the service panel, and they are reasonably priced at $30-50 per breaker). Would these AFCI or GFCI circuit breakers provide any protection on old, knob-and-tube wiring?

Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI)
An arc-fault circuit interruption device is designed to detect dangerous arcing within the protected circuit, and open (turn off) the circuit to prevent damage caused by the arcing.  It does this using special circuitry to analyse the electrical characteristics of the circuit, looking for characteristics that match specific pre-programmed values. If the AFCI detects suspicious goings on, it opens the circuit.
AFCI breakers are typically combination devices, meaning they also provide similar overcurrent and short-circuit protection to a standard breaker.
Installing a combination AFCI breaker on a circuit containing knob and tube wiring would be a great idea, and could potentially prevent a fire.
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)
Ground-fault circuit interruption devices are designed to detect ground-faults, and open (turn off) the circuit when a ground-fault is detected.  They work by using a current transformer (CT) to detect current imbalances between the ungrounded (hot), and grounded (neutral) conductors of a circuit. This blog entry might help you understand how GFCI devices work.
GFCI breakers are typically combination devices, meaning they also provide similar overcurrent and short-circuit protection to a standard breaker.
Installing a GFCI breaker on a circuit containing knob and tube wiring, probably won't provide any benefit. GFCI devices are designed to prevent electrocution, not to protect the wiring.
Combination AFCI GFCI Circuit Breakers
Circuit breakers that provide AFCI, GFCI, overload, and overcurrent protection are becoming more widely available.  If you can find them for your panel (and afford therm), these would be the best option.


How do you drain a garbage disposal? I have a garage disposal installed in my kitchen double sink.  The pipe that comes out of the garbage disposal is horizontal to the main vertical pipe before it goes to the p trap.  The t joint is baffled, and I am not a fan of this arrangement since it clogs quite often. (once in 6 months)

This causes a big problem for me since the dish waster is connected to the garbage disposal.  How could I reconfigure this plumbing without the baffled t?

When I am doing a disposal install (non professional but at least 10 for friends and family) I do a double 90 right away and slope drain down a bit from there.

After doing the double 90s you don't need that much slope but given you will potentially have food items I would maybe go 1/2" down overall on your straight into the T.

Also BMitch is right.  The AAV I think by code is supposed to be on the surface but that is another question.


Replacing an Apartment Light Fixture that has a Built-In Switch I am hoping to replace a vanity light in my bathroom over my sink and I have already gone ahead and ordered a light fixture. However, I realized I may have made a mistake in choosing the new one...

The current light is a cheap, small fluorescent fixture with a built-in switch. It is not connected to a wall switch. The new light does not have a built-in switch. So now I'm concerned that the new light will simply be on permanently with no way to turn it off. This is an apartment I rent, so I can't really tear the wall apart to do rewiring.

Interestingly, though the current light functions independently, sometimes it doesn't turn on until I flick the room lights. Then it immediately comes to life! So it must be connected to the light switch somehow even though that switch doesn't control it otherwise.

So I guess this is really two questions in one.

First: What are my options of replacing an "independent" light with a "dependent" one? I read somewhere that there is a switch you can add to a fixture to use it independently, but I'm not sure how that works.

Second: Should I be concerned about the wiring, if I sometimes have to jumpstart the vanity light by flicking the room switch?

Thanks!

Oh! Also, the current fixture isn't even rated for damp areas and this bathroom had no exhaust, so it's a hazard as is.

Flicking the overhead light might give a voltage transient which starts the fluorescent light. The most you should do in a rental apartment would be to change the bulb. If this is a compact fluorescent with a screw base (and the fixture does not have a build in ballast), you could replace the the fluorescent bulb with an LED. Otherwise ask the management to put in a new fluorescent bulb or you do it. In my youth I got in trouble by messing with fixtures in a rental apartment.

If you are sure that the light is not controlled by a wall switch, I advise you to return the light fixture which has no switch. There is no good way to add a switch.  If you want to change the fixture, get the apartment management to install one of the ceramic bases which has a pull chain. Put an LED bulb in it.

EDIT
The fact that your landlord encourages you to make repairs changes my opinion of your changing the fixture. Until you get one though I would change the bulb.

I presume you have access to the breakers to shut off the breaker to this circuit. Now you can shop for a fixture which will have a switch. Is this mounted high so that a pull chain is needed or can you reach it so that a mounted switch would work?


Why doesn't my fan work unless plugged into GFCI standard outlet or surge protector? A fan plugged into a GFCI works fine. The same fan does not work when plugged into a two pronged outlet. This fan will work when plugged into a surge protector that is plugged into the same two pronged outlet.

Where is my problem?

What your are saying is that you have a broken neutral and its shorting across the ground. That's why it won't work unless you have a path through the ground prong. This is potentially a dangerous situation. So get rid of the fan or have it repaired, but whatever you decide. Don't use this fan in this condition.


Hanging EMT conduit exterior to home How high does exposed EMT have to be from ground running down side of home?

I would not use EMT at all.  It is not weatherproof.  Those compression couplers (you know, the not-setscrew ones) are not for weatherproofing, they are for better grounds.  I would either go with thickwall with threaded connectors which I would teflon or dope for watertightness, or preferably PVC, which is cheap and easy to work with.


Improve HVAC in single upstairs room with vaulted ceiling Setup:

Our house is a two-story built in 2011. We have zoned HVAC off a single unit with electronic dampers. The upstairs has three bedrooms and two bathrooms. The master bedroom is the only room that has a vaulted ceiling. The attic spans over all of the other upstairs rooms except for the master bedroom. The vents in all of the rooms are wide open and not blocked. The system's air filter is brand new. We have blackout curtains over the master bedroom window that are closed essentially all of the time.

Issue:

When the upstairs thermostat (Nest 3rd Gen. in the hallway) calls for AC, the master bedroom cools off much slower than the rest of the rooms. We installed a Nest Temperature Sensor in the master bedroom so that the master bedroom stays the desired temperature, but this results in all of the other rooms being much colder than desired (typically 5-8 degrees colder than what the thermostat is set to).

Question:

Are there any solutions that we can deploy to balance the cooling in the master bedroom better with the rest of the rooms? Our HVAC guy just said it was because the master bedroom does not have the attic to assist with insulation, but I am not willing to accept that there is no solution.

Thanks!

I would adjust the dampers so the ones in the smaller rooms are not fully open this will put more flow to the larger room. Things to think about that can reduce flow to a room is the bottom of the door jamb tight to the carpet or floor this can act like a damper once the room is pressurized the flow will be reduced with the damper open. If this is the case trim the bottom door, I state this because the return air duct is usually in a common area for each floor. Your HVAC guy is correct a larger room with less dead air space (attic above) will take longer to cool, BUT a properly size duct(s) and damper control they can be setup to cool at similar rates.


AFCI / GFCI Circuit failure I've been unable to diagnose why a circuit in my house no longer works.  It's a 20 amp circuit that feeds 4 outlets in my kitchen area, and it has both a GFCI(link) and AFCI.  The entire house is newer construction (1yr) and this circuit has certainly worked before as it has the refrigerator on it (currently plugged into a different circuit).  So far I've tried a few things (in no particular order):

I tried to test/reset the GFCI which resulted in no change whatsoever (lights on the GFCI are out and buttons will not depress)
The circuit breaker AFCI I flipped and pressed the test button on (then flipped back to "on")
I purchased a new replacement GFCI and swapped it, with the same results as before
Ensured that nothing else is on the circuit that I can locate
Swapped line and load on the GFCI (no power at GFCI and no lights on the GFCI at all after pressing test and reset)

At this point I'm not sure what else to try.
Here is a picture of the GFCI circuit in question, flipped to off:

The AFCI breaker is probably toast you said you had no lights on the original GFCI or a replacement.
If you don’t have a meter try swapping the load from the first kitchen outlets to the second (both breakers off move the wires at the breakers and turn back on).
if the problem moves you have a bad breaker. If the problem stays the same there is a fault in the wiring and the breaker is doing it’s job.


How much temporary bracing do you need when cutting a new exterior door opening in an existing house? I'd like to add a door to the back side of my garage, but since this is a load bearing wall I'll have to brace it temporarily while I frame the opening.  The garage has one room above it, which spans about half the depth and the entire width of the garage. I'm not sure of the joist size but the span is 12', and there is a steel I-beam that divides the full 24' span.

Red = 2nd story room
Blue = Garage with nothing above
Rust = I-beam
Brown = Suspected joist location

I'm not sure of the wall construction yet (I haven't opened up the walls yet), but I suspect 2x4 studs at 16" on center. I want to add a 32" or 36" door in the 20' wall under the 2nd floor room, but I'm not sure exactly where just yet.

What type of structure will I need to create, to temporarily brace the ceiling while I cut and frame the rough door opening? How many joists do I have to carry to support the load, and what size vertical members do I need to hold the weight?

Look where the joists meet the ridge beam where you're going to put the door.

Get some dimensional lumber about 4 feet long, at least  as thick as the existing beam.   Nailing a couple of 2x6's together would probably suffice in the short term.

Give yourself enough room to work, and using a jack post and this 4 foot beam segment, support the joists in the area where you are going to work.  Don't over support, as you'll lift the floor above.  The idea is that you want to take the weight off the wall where you're working.  Jack the post until it's snug, and take out one wall stud in the middle of the door.  Check the supported joists for level, and jack up if necessary.

If required, remove another stud, and adjust the jack again.

Put in your door frame and header, and slowly jack the temporary beam down.


Can I ground junction box directly to panel? I have a metal junction box but I'm currently using as a pass-thru for the wires running through it. It's the incoming box from outdoor underground conduit burial. My ground wire is just barely long enough so I'm afraid to splice it and reconnect it using a wire nut so the box can be grounded. Is there a way to splice it securely so I don't have to worry about the splice coming loose? If not, can I just run a 4th wire from the jbox to the panel and consider it grounded safely?

I do have the hot wire in the box with a wirenut right now because it was a couple inches short so I had to cut it and extend it.

If that wire nut comes loose it sounds like you could end up with not only a HOT BOX but perhaps HOT CONDUIT also.

I trust you can imagine the possibilities of misfortune that can result from that.

It is well worth whatever it takes to prevent that from happening.  What you want is to have a breaker trip instead.

Splicing ground wire is safe when done correctly.  But if your length simply can't reach or if the splice can't be made to fit inside the conduit, then the only option would be a new length of ground wire.

Call it cheap insurance.


Why does our toilet keep blocking and then slowly draining? A few days ago our toilet got quite seriously blocked. We tried plunging, the mop and paper bag trick, flushing, bailing, washing up liquid, coat hanger, hot water....eventually about 12 hrs after it blocked a can of Mr. Muscle unblocked it and our toilet worked again! Until a few hours later when I flushed the chain and it blocked again. Since then whenever it flushes (even if there's no paper towel put down there), it blocks, fills up, and then about 40 minutes later has almost completely drained right down to the bottom (it also blocked the sink for about 10 minutes one time). We were baffled because it only ever blocked when I flushed the chain, but worked fine for my mum. I figured out that by holding both the little and bigger flush buttons together, the toilet won't block and will work perfectly. However this isn't too practical as if you apply even the slightest bit of pressure to one button over the other it will block again. We had the flush buttons replaced about a week ago and I've noticed it's been playing up since then. Does anyone have any ideas what to do?

The one time this happened to me it turned out that my 1.5-yr-old had flushed a quarter-turn piece of his hamster run into the toilet.

The snake went through it and we couldn't find any obstruction.

So we decided to replace the toilet.

As soon as it was off the floor we turned it over and there it was.  A nice piece of blue curved plastic.

It was wedged in such a way that the snake made it pivot to go through, but water flow would catch in it and it would turn back to block the flow.

So the answer in our case was to remove the toilet and give it a thorough examination.


Dimmable LED lights on a dimmer switch, they won't come on at all anymore. Do they still work? Apologies for the wall of text in advance.

I bought three 40W Energizer dimmable LED lightbulbs for a dimmer switch at home. Once I screwed them in, I noticed that when I turned on the switch, there was a particular buzz that came from them and the dimming would not work properly. I did a bit of research and it turned out I needed a specific LED dimmer switch to go with the dimmable LED lights. I thought "oh, well, I'll just replace it with a normal switch". I left it like that for a few weeks since it wasn't a huge priority. The buzz eventually went away and I kinda forgot about it completely.

However, I noticed that over time one by one the lightbulbs would stop coming on every time I turned the switch on. I ignored it for the first one since I thought it was just the dimmer switch, but I had another light not come on today and it got me worried. I tested it in another light socket that's connected to a normal switch and it won't come on, so I worry it's been buggered (the third one that still works, worked in the other socket).

Are they salvageable at all? Have I just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights?

Are they salvageable at all? Have I just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights?

No, they are not salvageable.  Yes, you have just ruined two otherwise perfectly good LED lights.

Dimming, with a non-LED compatible dimmer or with non-dimmable LED lights, is not good for the lights. Dimming is not normally, as much as it might appear (and as I used to think) simply reducing the amount of current going to the lights. It is a bit more complex. LED lights (fluorescent too) can't simply take "any way of reducing the overall power" - they have to handle things in a special way or they will either die a painful death (as you found) or blink a lot - 50% on, 50% off = 50% light, but not in a terribly useful way.

Odds are if you had removed the lights right away after discovering the problem, they would be just fine today - the electronics are actually fairly resilient. But using them over an extended period time with a mismatched dimmer doomed them.


Medium-term repair for spalled foundation with exposed mudsill I have an old house (built in 1946) near the ocean.  The foundation in the back has spalled off, exposing the mudsill in some places.  The worst spalling is 4" deep - you can see the mudsill and a few rotted anchor bolts.

A home inspector and a handyman/contractor both looked at it and thought it could be patched.  A foundation contractor came out and says it's not patchable - he recommends excavation and replacement of the rear foundation, which involves demoing part of our living space.

In the 2-5 year timespan, we plan to remodel and extend this wall anyway - but we can't afford to do this remodel now, and it seems silly to excavate and demo only to redo it all just a few years later.

The foundation does not have much sag - no big vertical cracks, about 1" of sag from the front of the house to the back.  Not bad for a 70 year old tract home!  But the foundation is degrading rapidly and rainy season is just arriving.

I need a stopgap that can hold the degradation at bay for a few years.  My plan is to:

use a wire brush to remove the loose concrete and aggregate
spray the existing foundation with water
pack on rapid set mortar mix to patch all the missing holes (would cement-all be better?)

How terrible is my plan?  Obviously it doesn't fix the foundation bolt problem, but we're paying for earthquake insurance anyway.  Again - earthquake resilience is a priority for the remodel - but we need to live in it as-is for a few years first.

I think your plan is fine, a patch may slow the failure but won't stop it and a patch in this case really won't help structurally I agree with the foundation guy. Since the foundation has not started cracking it is still stable but a seismic event may cause it to crumble.


Should we install an overhead tank or cistern tank? We are building our home (a 2-storey house) and a cistern tank was suggested by our architect for aesthetics. We asked around the neighborhood and one person has a cistern and an overhead tank but uses the cistern more on a daily basis while the overhead tank is used when there's no power. The ground floor is also connected directly to the city water line while the 2nd floor is pumped from the cistern due to low pressure up to the 2nd floor. The other neighbor only uses an overhead tank in their backyard.

We are quite concerned on aesthetics and safety but also about the cost of electricity if we use a cistern powered by a tank to supply the 2nd floor of the house. We were told by our architect that we can find an energy saving pump these days and in case there's no electricity, we can always buy a cheaper generator as back-up.

Also, our architect suggested we have a cistern to store rain water for use in gardening and supply water to the pond which we think is a great idea.

Are there other reasons for choosing a cistern tank vs an overhead tank?

A cistern tank is shielded from all elements-the temperature will be less volatile.
Sun warmth can not increase bio live.
They work for centuries now.


Well breaker tripped we ant reset it I was in the shower and water just shut off. The breaker tripped we tried resetting it all it does is hum then its off again. We have no water. What can we do

Assuming the humming sound is your well pump (were you able to hear it when it was working?) then it either has something stuck inside or it has simply seized up.

If you cannot normally hear the well pump, and the humming sound comes from the breaker itself, that means it's definitely seized and is drawing a LOT of power until the breaker trips. Stop doing that.

Either way, time for a new pump.

Changing a well pump is one of those things where if you have to ask how, you need to call someone. Electricity and water don't get along very much and mistakes can be costly. Like ruining the new pump and having to buy a third one, causing the well sides to collapse and therefore needing to re-dig the hole, or someone getting electrocuted and dying.

Any plumber in your area will know exactly what you need, and will likely be able to fix it the same day.


15 amp line connects to -> 20 amp line -> 20 amp GFCI -> 15 amp outlet Regular 15amp non-GFCI breaker, first circuit stop is outdoor 15amp GFCI outlet, second stop is bathroom 20amp GFCI outlet, last stop is bathroom plain 15amp outlet. Everything is correctly wired.
15a breaker -> 15a GFCI -> 20a GFCI -> 15a plain outlet.
Outside GFCI trips itself and the two downstream as normal. Bathroom GFCI in middle trips plain outlet, but not itself. Between the two GFCIs, there is an unused solid cover outlet box in bathroom above sink, about a foot away from the two bathroom outlets. Inside it a 14-gage (15amp) Romex enters (from outside GFCI), a 12-gage (20amp) romex exits, and their wires are connected correctly by colors. Then the 12-gage line continues to the 20amp bathroom GFCI, then plain wires connect the 20amp GFCI to the 15amp plain outlet.
15a breaker -> 14-gage romex -> 15a GFCI -> 14-gage romex -> 14-gage romex connects to 12-gage Romex -> 12-gage romex -> 20a GFCI -> wiring from 20a GFCI connects to 15a plain outlet.

Would replacing the 20amp bathroom GFCI with a 15amp GFCI solve this?
Is a 15amp GFCI effective / safe to use in bathroom on that 12-gage romex in the middle? I know it's legal for 15a outlets to be on 20a circuit, but will a 15A GFCI work correctly?
Will the outside GFCI be enough to trip bathroom outlets off if bad things happen?
Or do I have to color the air blue trying to fish 14-gage romex behind drywall to replace the 12-gage romex?
Or...?

The previous installer wired the bathroom GFCI backwards
The symptom of a GFCI that shuts off power to downstream outlets but not itself when tested is a classic indication of a classic mistake.  In particular, GFCIs are not symmetrical devices, unlike regular receptacles.  LINE on a GFCI is the power in side, and LOAD is a dedicated output, connected in parallel with the receptacles on the front.  If you try to put power into LOAD on older (pre-self-test) GFCIs, that power source will power the receptacles directly, bypassing the actual switching mechanism in the GFCI.  Then, when you try to run further loads from what are actually the LINE side terminals, those loads are now on the opposite side of the GFCI's contacts from power, so they appear to be protected when you push TEST.
However, this miswiring condition's bad for GFCI's in the long run (tends to fry internal parts), so your bathroom GFCI should be considered due for replacement now.  When you get the new GFCI in, there will be a yellow "FOR WIZARDS ONLY" sticker covering the LOAD terminals.  Do not remove that sticker yet!  Instead, what you want to do is leave that sticker on while wiring the GFCI LINE terminals to power and testing the results using the GFCI's TEST button and a plug-in tester.  Once you know the GFCI itself is correctly fitted, THEN you can unfasten it from the wall, remove the "FOR WIZARDS ONLY" sticker, and hook your additional receptacle to the LOAD side of the GFCI.
15A/20A doesn't matter here, but your mix of bathroom and outdoor outlets does
The good news for the rest of your situation is that 15A and 20A receptacles, whether regular or GFCI, are only distinguished by their faces.  UL and the NEC require both varieties to be able to handle 20A in a pass through configuration (from one set of screws to the other), so your concerns are irrelevant in that regard.  Furthermore, it's A-OK to have fat wire on a small breaker, since the breaker's still the "weak link", so to speak.
However, you have two problems with what you are doing if you want this to comply with current Code.  First off, the bathroom receptacles need to be on a 20A circuit to start with.  Furthermore, even if this was a 20A circuit, bathroom receptacles aren't allowed to share a circuit with non-bathroom receptacles in any case.  Due to this, to get this up to Code, you'd need to pull a 12/2 for the bathroom, either from your panel as a new home run, or from an existing 20A circuit that feeds nothing but bathroom receptacles.


How to fix wall with paint and wallpaper? I recently bought a house and was removing the TV mount from a wall. The wall shows signs that it's paint over wallpaper and the mount was stuck to the wall so I had to use a scrapper to get the mount out. In the process it peeled down beneath the paint. Now I'm trying to figure out how best to fix the wall so I can paint it.

I'm trying to figure out if it's best to cut away anything loose and repair this small piece or try to scrap the wall down and repair the rest of the wall. Thoughts? Any other suggestions?

Since the edges of the old paint/wallpaper are loose, you'll have to remove it back to where you get a tight edge.  The main problem that you'll run into if you just try to scrape it is that you're likely to remove way to much before you get a suitable edge.

The best way that I've found to deal with paint blowouts like that is to score through the paint/wallpaper with a utility knife around the raised area, and then scrape up to your scoring. A putty knife or drywall knife works pretty well for this.  This prevents you from raising more paint than you have to in order to get a decent looking repair, because the scoring will give a nice clean break in the paint.

When you have the area scraped with a clean edge, feather the edges with drywall compound and sand smooth.  Since you're dealing with some sort of fiberboard instead of plaster, I'd also skim coat and sand the exposed area too (which you'll have to do anyway in order to fill the holes).  After that, it should mostly disappear when re-painted.

Note that fiberboard can leech through paint pretty badly, so I'd hit it with a pretty good stain blocking primer.


How to install window screen without screen track We had wooden Marvin double hung tilt-pac windows installed but all without screens.  However, there aren't any screen tracks.  On the exterior trim, there is a groove/corner on three sides that would fit a screen (~36x54.5) , but it would have to be secured with hardware somehow.  And this trim corner does not extend to the bottom sill - rather, the bottom sill is sloped down and smooth.  I attached a picture of the lower corner to see where the screen would fit - I am pointing to the relevant corner where I thought I could fit in the screen.

How do I secure a screen to the trim without a screen track and without letting water into the trim/sill?  I am worried about screwing things into the wood and letting water in.

It does look like that a screen could fit where you're pointing.

I've included a picture of some screen hangers and a lock. The hangers would go on the top of the screen and trim allowing the screen to be lifted into your trim track. The locking device would be screwed into the center of the  sill and mounted to hold the screen securely into the trim. Any water that accumulated during rain would be able to run under the screen. The hardware would be permanently attacked to the upper frame, screen and sill so it could be caulked and sealed to prevent any water from migrating into the wood.


Shrink window film problems We installed Climaloc window film according to the directions on package. It shrunk well and we were pleased. The next day there were lots of wrinkles so again used the hair dryer and the windows looked great. Same thing has happened two more times. So we have gone over them 4 times. Each time I was concerned about overshrinking so we made sure we stopped when all the wrinkles were gone. The film felt taunt. Now I notice that one of the films has two holes in it, about the size of a dime. About 5 inches of another one has pulled away from the tape on one side. the wrinkles were all out of it about an hour ago but they are coming back. Has anyone had the same experience? Is there a way of repairing these?
The room where these windows are is an unheated sunroom. Does this make a difference in the ability of the shrinkwrap being able to stay shrunk?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
D.F.

Has anyone had the same experience?

No, I haven't seen that happen with 3M or FrostKing.

  Is there a way of repairing these?

I have accidentally melted the film/trimmed wrong/had kids poke holes in it. I have successfully patched 4" holes that have lasted a season using indoor weather sealing tape.


Installed new bath faucet. No cold water comes out Hot water comes out fine, but not cold...none at all. It comes up to handle so I know there is water coming through cold line. But when I turn on cold water...nothing. Can the stem cartridge cause no water ?

First verify that you have water coming through the cold line.  Make sure the shutoff value is turned off at the wall, disconnect the line from the faucet and put in a bucket.  Open the value and you should get a lot of water coming out at full pressure.

If that works, there is something wrong with your faucet.  Either something is blocking it or it's defective.  I once had this happen to me with a faucet from a big-box store.  I took everything apart to try to figure out what was wrong with it until I finally found that one of the valves was lacking a small grove that was the channel the water was supposed to come through.  It took me forever to notice it was different than the working side.  I went back and someone that worked there grabbed the part out of another box for me.

If this is a single handle faucet make sure you have installed the cartridge properly.  If it is not oriented right or the handle doesn't connect properly, you could have an issue like this.