Can I add a light switch that overrides a set of existing switches? I have three rows of lights. Each row has its own single pole preset dimmer switch. I want to keep them on a separate switch like that plus adding the fourth  switch to shut of all the lights with that fourth switch.

Any help please.
Thanks

Your best case scenario is that you have one hot wire that comes into your switch box and is chained to one screw of all three dimmers.  Maybe the wire comes in and is spliced into three wires that each go to a switch, or a clever person has just stripped insulation from the middle of the wire and chained it from switch to switch.  The other wire going to each dimmer would then go out to each row of lights.

image from https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring-two-outlets-one-box.html

In this picture, the source coming in from the bottom is what I'm referring to. You would have three switches and lights, but the diagram only shows two. If you put a new switch on the incoming hot wire before it goes to the other dimmers (before the black wire nut in the bottom left), you will be able to cut power to everything with that one switch.

Of course that is just one way to wire the lights.  You could also have a switch loop that comes from each row, or a combination of switch loops which would make this a more complicated endeavor.


Why does Florida drywall have a pebbled surface? Why does drywall in Florida typically have a pebbled surface? Up north it is mainly smooth.

I'm assuming you mean an orange peel finished texture. That is a popular style that fades in and out like any fashion. Stucco exteriors are popular in the South; wood siding is popular in the North.


Replace Toilet Water Supply Line I'd like to replace this old toilet copper supply line with a more flexible braided supply line.
The problem is that I can't find one with the right connection to the water supply valve.

Current (copper) connection:

The two closest replacements I have found are:

1)
BrassCraft Model# "B3-12DL F"
Description:
"1/2 in. Compression x 7/8 in. Ballcock Nut x 12 in. Braided Polymer Toilet Connector"

2)
BrassCraft Model# "B8-12DL F"
Description:
"1/2 in. FIP x 7/8 in. Ballcock Nut x 12 in. Braided Polymer Toilet Connector"

Images of BrassCraft models:

By my measurements, the interior diameters are:
- Current connection: 11/16 inch
- BrassCraft model B3-12DL F: 10/16 inch (1/16 inch too small)
- BrassCraft model B8-12DL F: 12/16 inch (1/16 inch too large)

The connection types of the two models is different (one is 1/2 in. Compression and the other is 1/2 in. FIP). I don't know what type is necessary to replace the old line (maybe neither of those), but the FIP (Model B8-12DL F) looks more similar to the existing connection.

If anybody has any insight regarding how I can connect a new flexible braided supply line (without replacing the water supply valve itself), I'd greatly appreciate it!

That shutoff looks super old.  I would turn off the main shut off, cut off the old shutoff and get a push-fit shutoff and toilet supply line. The new shutoff will be about $10 and the supply line will be about $5. You will also need a copper cutter or hack saw and possibly a meter key and pliers.


What underlayment should I use for stapled engineered floor? What underlayment should I use for 3/8" engineered flooring stapled to plywood subfloor?

For nail down, no underlay is needed.  But for install and to help reduce noise from the wood floor rubbing against the subfloor (when someone walks on it), use red rosin paper.


Proper size drain and venting behind new bathtub I'm a plumbing newbie and I'm adding a bathtub where one didn't exist before and I want to make sure that I am plumbing the drain properly.

I have a 2" drain available to me directly below the tub and a 2" vent available on the back wall behind where the faucet will be.

Is it okay for the tub drain and trap to be 1-1/2" and then go into a 2" vent/drain?

I've attached a picture of my mockup.

Further down the line I'm fairly certain the 2" line goes into a 3" toilet which is separately vented. It's under concrete but the 2" line goes in that direction.

Thanks!

yes that will be fine.  vent size increase as they go UP and more lines get tied into it. the size of drain lines increase as they go DOWN and more lines get tied together.  so yes a 1½ drain and vent can tie into a 2" vent and drain,  as long as it's an individually vented fixture


Is it safe and legal to convert an immersion heater circuit for lights and outlets? I have a kitchen cupboard that used to house an immersion heater....there is therefore a fairly heavy twin and earth terminating in what was once the switch for the immersion heater, on its own circuit with currently a 16A RCD at the consumer unit.

Along the line the switch has been replaced by a fused switch supplying a cupboard light and a spur off to a socket for the fridge.

Firstly, how legal or otherwise is that set up , secondly, if it's safe ( What ever happens I'm gong to replace the RCD at the CU with something of a much lower rating...6A?  ) can I wire another socket out of that switch unit assuming the RCD is downrated accordingly?

16 amp MCB (not RCD) supplying a socket - OK
fused connection unit with 3 amp fuse to supply light - OK

However, there are two important issues:

The cable size. A standard radial socket circuit uses 2.5mm (minimum) cable on a 20A MCB. Sometimes (say pre 1980) immersion heaters were wired assuming a 2kW heater on 1.5mm cable. Before extending that circuit, you'd have to verify by calculation that 1.5mm cable is adequate for a 16A circuit. As a general purpose socket circuit the design current for the circuit would be the same as the protective device (16A)
RCD protection. All new sockets must be RCD protected; all new cabling must be RCD protected (unless metal-sheathed cable or in metal conduit).

If the existing circuit is not RCD protected, you should add RCD protection. If you can't add an RCD to the existing consumer unit, there are ways round it (such as an RCD in a DIN rail enclosure next to the consumer unit, or an RCD fused spur, but if your consumer unit is that old it's probably due for replacement.

Don't reduce circuit protection down to 6A at the MCB - there is no need, and fridges/freezers can have high motor inrush currents.


Sudden drop in water pressure at sink furthest from entry of main water line I've had a sudden drop in water pressure in my kitchen sink, which happens to be roughly 40 or 50 feet from where the main water line enters the house.  My bathroom sink/shower seem to be fine, but they are much closer to the entry point.  The water company came out and "turned up" the water pressure, but to no avail.  Sometimes it's hardly more than a dribble out of our kitchen sink.  My basement is fully opened up, so I can trace the water lines throughout the house and have verified no leaks.  What should my next steps be?

This is normally caused by rust, scale or other debris clogging the aerator on the faucet, remove it and see if you have normal flow, note without the aeration the water stream will shoot like a garden hose so be prepared. If the flow is still reduced the orifices in the valve may be plugged by the rust, scale  or other debris. Washer less faucets tend to have this problem more often than standard valves.

To fix a washer less turn the supply lines off remove the handle and cartridge , I put a bowl over the fitting and turn the cold on for a few seconds then the hot to purge anything in the lines out. Sometimes it is easy to clean the cartridge or plate other times a replacement is needed, if you just clean it is a good idea to change out the o rings with new ones many times they are color coded but if not they are standard sized and can be replaced with generic buna o rings.

These are the 2 places I have found problems that cause low flow on many occasions both with city water and well water systems.


Are these sconces from the 1920s or newer? I'm trying to determine if these are original to my 1920 house.
- They appear to be stamped brass which has since been painted gold.
- The wiring is cloth-wrapped.
- The switches are newer.
- The candlestick is a painted paper tube.

Thanks!

The cloth wire in a fixture really is not a clue because many light fixtures use high temp wire like that today. I would take to an antique shop and ask them but the quality looks a bit less than the materials I have found from the 20' S and 30's. Specifically the detail work was much sharper/ cleaner looking.


How do I rewire 2 different switches controlling 2 different lights so that each switch is a 3-way switch controlling both lights? Current situation: I have two regular switches (SW1 & SW2) and two ceiling lights (L1 & L2) in a long hallway, and each switch controls one of the lights. So SW1 controls L1, and SW2 controls L2.

Desired situation: I would like to rewire so that I can control both lights L1 & L2 with either SW1 or SW2.

Is this possible?

Thanks

If you have accepted the idea of having to rewire the circuit and change out the switches to 3-ways. Then here is the wiring schematic for a source coming in the first switch.

You do have to parallel the two lights together. That's the only thing that is not shown.

Good luck


On a new main 3 wire panel where do I connect green from MC lite(BX) wires? I had electrician upgrade my service to 200amp and installed a new murray breaker box. Within this box 2 wires feed the breakers and 1 wire is attached to the neutral bus bar on the lower left side of panel(There is also a neutral bar on rt side that is connected to the left side via flat piece of steel(There is also a heavy screw that makes contact to the panels metal shell). The ground rod wire also is connected to this neutral bar.
On top right of panel there is a separate bus bar that is screwed directly to the shell of the panel. What is this for? (For green wires)
My question-  I am adding a few circuits using MC Lite wire. This wire has 1 black, 1 white, and 1 green. Do I connect the green wire to the same neutral bus bar as all other circuits or do I connect green wire to the separate bar on top right?
Thank you.

Since this is an upgrade of the service panel the grounding and grounded conductors really don't matter the side they are on. Both neutral and grounds can be on the same buss. If it is a sub panel the neutral and ground need to be isolated and the grounds on 1 side and the neutrals on the other to be code compliant.


Can anyone help me figure out what type of bug this is? In the past weeks I've had these bugs show up.  First on my dinner table and now on a book shelf.  I've sprayed bug spray and then vinegar on the table itself.  But it doesn't seem to deter them.

Had a bug guy come out.  They were white, fuzzy, super tiny almost spider\ant types.  Turned out they were baby ghost ants.


Wiring a new shop advice I am having a new shop  built on Friday.The shop is located 250 feet from my power meter.

For a 240 volt 100 amp service in the shop, the online calculator says I need 2/0 AWG Aluminum or 1AWG copper.

I have underground service to my home and the wires leading form the meter run under the slab to the 200 amp panel in the bedroom closet. Running a wire from the panel in the house to the shop will not work as I cannot get the wires into the house.
The meter also has separate wires running to a 100 amp service panel in the add on washroom. There is a separate conduit running to the meter box that feeds this portion of the house. The wires feeding the 100 amp service are too small for what I need at the shop. Plus I have the same issue getting the wires into this panel box as well.

What do I need to do to get the power run to my shop? Is there a way to tie 2/0 AWG into the meter? I am guessing the meter is already crowded since it has wiring for the 200 and 100 amp service running to it. I am guessing there will be no room to run additional wiring to it as is.

My service line to the shop will be under ground. What wire type should I use?

Unfortunately this has quite a number of defects in it already, including a panel in a clothes closet, a panel in a bathroom, and 2 feeders (service laterals, really) to the same structure.
As far as splitting the laterals below the meter, that is just a matter of splicing space, and you will be able to resolve that with an additional box or gutter below or on the opposite side of the pole from the meter.
Normally this type of splitting calls for a main breaker at the meter, and then supply breakers to each lateral feeder that is not rated for the ampacity of the main breaker.  (But still, dual feeders to the house would be problematic.)
Anyway, the upshot of all that is that you are already at 2/0.  If you spend a bit more to take it to 4/0, then that wire would be legal at 200A.


What materials do I need to install pantry shelving? I'm installing shelving in my 5x5 kitchen pantry.  My plan is to run 1x2 strapping on the back edge and left/right sides of each shelf, then use 1x12 boards as shelves.  I'm considering poplar for the shelving materials.

I'm wondering if the side/back support will be sufficient or if I'll need a brace in the middle.  We don't plan on putting too much weight on the shelves but I'd rather do the project once than have to come back to it later.

Unsupported 1x12 over a 5' span will sag (even under its own weight).  As an alternative you could get some of these shelf tracks (~$2.25/track)

and some 12" brackets (~$1.30/brace)

and then lay your 1x12's on top to make the shelves.  This option also allows you to easily adjust the shelves up and down, to suit your needs.
If you want to make the shelves completely from wood (as you suggest), you'll need to beef up the design and add additional supports.


Sump Pit Bone Dry After Running Every 5 Minutes, How? Two nights ago my pump was running every 5 minutes due to heavy rainfall. Water was pouring into the pit from the normal ground water sources (not the exit pipe).

My pump and float switch are both 6 months old, I have a bleed off hole in the recommended location. There is ample clearance around my float switch, nothing can conceivably touch it, it can't get stuck on anything.

The pit typically half-fills, then the pump takes it down to a few inches, maybe 2.

I checked on the pump today, (2 days after the on and off night) and the pit is dry. Like still damp, but no standing water in the pit.

How is this possible? Has my switch already failed? It's just been 30 hours since water was pouring in, could I possibly have gotten the pump to kick on with the last ounce of entering water, then had the damp basement air dry the or completely over the past day?

The pump and switch still work, I just tested it.

What should I be concerned with?

EDIT

As a test, I poured a bucket of water into the pump to add about an inch to the bottom of the sump pit (insert).

After 4 hours all the water was still there.

After 18 hours, the water is gone!

On closer inspection, there is a small hole in the bottom of my pit, just a small triangular cut (only about 0.5" wide by 2" long). So it looks like even though I have what appears to be a normal plastic sump insert, there is, in-fact, a hole in the bottom!

You should be concerned with wanting to be concerned about things that are not problems, if you're going to be concerned about anything, here.

Not that difficult - the local-to-your-sump-pit groundwater source level has receded below the floor of the sump pit. The groundwater has moved to refill local groundwater stores and is no longer high enough to enter your pit.


wiring for wall sconces I had someone connect some romex for some wall lights for me. I ran the wire, and just had him do the connections (they're inside junction boxes).  This from a partially finished space into a finished space. As the run starts it is in holes drilled through exposed 2x4 wall (the other side has drywall), it leaves the wall and goes out and over the metal support beam and into a finished drywall ceiling. It's stapled on the vertical part. On this part I use a flexible metal raceway (secured at both ends) to go over the beam (the builder did the exact same thing).  After this, I ran the wire between the floor joists. I laid it on top of the ceiling that's finished with drywall.

I sold my house... it will be inspected...like.. in a couple days... do I need to tear out portions of the ceiling and staple this wire to the joists?  Do I need to take it all out and have it pass, then have someone else come in and redo it?  Will he get on a ladder and look at how it's run?  Does it matter?  Is it within code?  Help me get this thing right so I can make sure our home closes.  Thank you! (the wiring is part of a home theater that is being sold with the house.. it's a major player as to why our house is selling.. need to make sure there's not a surprise).  Thanks

Btw, saw someone say on this site that it was ok to let it lay up there, and ran with it. Wish I wouldn't have done that now, just so that I wasn't worrying right now.

Edit from OP:
Let me go further... Based on my limited knowledge, I understand that home inspectors (those generally hired by the buyer) are not "code experts".  That said, my township requires an occupancy permit and inspection (ie, the city's building inspector comes out, I'm sure you know that :P). So, this guy might be a little more stringent when he finds work done that wasn't permitted. I'm not even sure it has to be permitted, but maybe it does?  I'll be calling this week to find out and apply for retroactive if so.  So, if it is required, it will be required to be up to code... Will the city's inspector pass it done this way?  Here's a picture to illustrate. There are three of these coming from one closed junction box ran off an existing outlet ran parallel with the joists.

Let's be practical  about this one. The area of concern on your part is the wire that is resting on the ceiling drywall. In a perfect world, if you had had access to the space then the wire should have been secured to avoid any nail damage etc. It sounds like you did the rest of the installation well where you had access. If the cable in the closed ceiling is not visible without removing drywall, then it is highly unlikely a home inspector will even see it. I'm not advocating hiding problems from a home inspector,(I am a home inspector) but keep in mind that a home inspector is not a government building inspector and typically is not allowed destructive/invasive inspection techniques. If the cable is fully enclosed, it will not be seen.  Let us assume that the inspector sees and makes an issue of the unsecured cable. Normally, the finding would be addressed before a closing. It would be rare that a minor problem like this would sink a sale unless the buyer was looking for some way out of the deal and refused to allow you to remedy the problem. Personally, I would never write up such a minor discrepancy unless I felt it posed a safety problem. Most electricians I know would probably do the same by fishing the wire in an open bay and securing it in the first exposed area available.


How do I wire a modern 240V 3 prong range to a 250V 50A 3 prong outlet? This is for wiring in the United States.
My wife ordered a new GE electric range top, and it came with a 3 wire flex conduit permanently attached.  I cannot change it.  It has a black wire, a red wire and a ground wire.  It looks like this:

We plan to use it in an old cabin that was built in the 1940's.  There is an existing 240V 3 prong 50A outlet in the kitchen.  Upon opening the outlet, I found a red wire, white wire and black wire in what looks to be 6 gauge?  It's very thick, and hard to bend.  There is no ground wire present.

My understanding was that I could just wire in the black and red on the range top, and not use the neutral wire in the outlet box.  But the fact that there is no ground in the outlet box means I can't ground the range top.
What is the proper way to wire this up without having to run an entirely new outlet from the breaker panel?
UPDATE:
Added picture of breaker panel wiring, and it appears the metal box is indeed grounded?
@ThreePhaseEel, yes I plan to hard wire it. I'm away at the moment, but can take a photo later. There is a 3/4 inch metal conduit entering the top of the outlet box. You can see it in the 3rd photo.
Update 2:
Okay, you guys are going to freak, but here is a photo of what I'm dealing with here.  This is all the panels for the cabin:

Now, I consider myself to be very handy.  I do all my own mechanical and electrical work on my cars, I run my own outdoor gas lines, run my own electrical for my landscaping, etc.  Add outlets within the house... But I'm obviously not an electrician.  It seems like it would be easy enough to replace that sub-panel myself, but in light of all the other panels on that wall, is this looking like something that I should have an electrician handle?
Update 3
My original question has been answered, but it opened another can of worms.  And so I've created a new question to address the panel replacement/rewiring: Proper way to modernize 1940's cabin sub-panels
Thank you all so much for your very generous help!  It is greatly appreciated.

That white wire can just...go
Since your new range doesn't use a neutral, and this circuit appears to be run in conduit, I would turn off the feeder to the subpanel box at the main panel, make sure the power's off in the sub, then unhook the white wire headed rangeward from the neutral bar of the subpanel and pull it out as a starting point.  While this may sound odd at the moment, it's actually a rather sensible move since you don't have separate neutral and ground in the feeder, thus we need to pick one or the other to provide at the subpanel, and since the other load has no use for neutral, we pick ground.
Of course, if you are planning to consolidate the panels, then the white wire can stay since it'll become a proper isolated neutral in that case.  You'll want to cap it off at the cooktop junction box in the meantime, though.
That subpanel needs to go, though, too
However, once that white wire's gone from the equation, the challenge begins, as sadly, that subpanel is a Zinsco, with all the relatively checkered failure history attendant to that fact.  Sadly, the fact it's recessed is going to make this a tricky (albeit rather necessary!) job, especially considering that retrofit interiors aren't made for small panels like yours.  You'll want to ignore the bonded bar and fit a ground bar to the new panel, though, landing the bare ground wires on the incoming feeder cable and outgoing 10/2 NM cable on the ground bar and leaving the bonded bar empty as a cue that neutral is not available at this panel.
Once all that's out of the way
Once you get all that taken care of, then the green wire from the range can just land on a small mechanical lug (Brumall 6T or equivalent 4-14 foot lug with a #10 hole in it) connected to the box by a 10-32 self-tapping screw (Garvin GSST).  From there, the conduit continues the equipment grounding path to the subpanel, which then is grounded via the bare outer braid of the SEU cable used to feed it.


Replacing 4-wire outlet and didn't label the order -- does it matter? I'm replacing an outlet that has 2 black wires and 2 white wires. When removing the old outlet, I didn't keep tabs on which black wire was on top and which was on bottom (as well as the whites). I'm not really sure why the order matters (if it does) but I'd like to figure out the proper way to wire this back up.

I had it wired for a while based on what I thought was the right order, but for some reason today I noticed part of the circuit suddenly stopped working; this was triggered by a light switch turning on down circuit I think. It's a motion activated light and happened to switch off just as I was testing the outlet with my voltage detector -- when I tapped the outlet is when the light went out. However, I can't reproduce this. So the outlet just before the new one worked, the new one wasn't working, and the outlets beyond it (including a GFCI outlet) were dead. The breaker nor the GFCI tripped.

I had the outlet pulled out of the wall while testing and noticed a small spark prior to the outlets down circuit going dead -- seemed like a bad idea to leave it as is, so I turned the breaker off until I can figure out the correct order.

How can I figure out which wire goes where (safely)?

Be careful, the old receptacle could have been a half hot, meaning one wire goes to a switch and the other is always hot. Test both the wires with a meter to make sure. Turn all the switches on in the room  before you test. If they are both hot then you will need to abandon/cap off the one to the switch leg. Another way to tell is if you still have the old receptacle there will be a metal bus that attaches both gold screws. If that is removed then it's likely a half hot.


LED Recessed lighting trim stuck I feel like an idiot.  I just bought my first starter home which happens to be a renovated home.  The seller told me I have LED recessed lighting but I would like to change those lights to less harsh white light.  I tried to remove the trim to change the light but it seems that its stuck on the ceiling.  I cannot twist or wiggle the trim or anything.  Was the trim caulked to the ceiling ?  Please advise, I am scared to cause a mess on my ceiling.

In almost every case, recessed lighting trim is held in place by springs on two sides of the unit. If you can get purchase on the edges, pull down on opposite sides. The unit should lower by several inches.

If you cannot get a grip, you could pry first one side, then the other with a thin plastic putty knife or a plastic spatula. Once you can grip it, again pull down a few inches.

You can then usually release the springs holding the unit to the ceiling. Be careful, because on many LED units, the trim and lighting portions are integral, and they may have wiring going up into the fixture that may need to be disconnected.


Why doesn't duct tape work well on cables? In the past, I've used duct tape on cables (e.g., Power, LAN). For instance, I taped cables to a wall, I taped cables together for storing etc.

The taping often failed after some time: The taping surface on the cable became covered with an extremely sticky film. This film was always very nasty to remove.

Main question:

Is there an alternative adhesive tape that works with cables? It should be strong enough to hold cables to a wall.

I'd also be interested in:

Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? Is it the fault of plasticizers?
Does the sticky film pose a health risk?

To answer your questions:

"Why doesn't duct tape work for cables? Is it the fault of plasticizers? " - No -- it is more likely that exposure to air dries the glue, causing it to eventually lose its tack and become unstuck. This is also the reason that you're often left with sticky residue, as air was unable to penetrate to the underside of the glue.
"Does the sticky film pose a health risk?" - The 3M MSDS does not list any potential health hazards associated with physical contact.
"[...] alternative adhesive tape that works with cables? [...] strong enough to hold cables to a wall." - For simply bundling cables, I like to use the the Velcro cable ties. I do not suggest buying them from general/electronics stores, where a pack of 10 may cost you $5 -- I get mine from Home Depot in the area with the other velcro, which has 2 small rolls of 25 (50 total) for ~$5.

Tape will never make for much of a semi-permanent wall mounting solution, as it is almost always intended to be a "temporary" solution.
If screws are an option -- I much prefer the use of "Wall Dog" anchor screws (or other anchoring alternative), and eyelet-zip-ties or J-hooks, for securing cables to the wall.
If screws are not an option, you might consider the 3m command strips with zip-ties.


Is there an age limit on wire in NEC? I have unused 12-3 wire dated 1992.  It seems fine.  Is there a code limitation that says it can’t be used?  I couldn’t find one.

There is no limit to the age of the wire, even old knob & tube can be used to maintain historical accuracy. The one place I would modify this statement is on aluminum wire but code allows repair with the same type of device or material without upgrading.
As far as your 12-3 if it has not been in the sun so the outer thermoplastic covering is good it can be used the same as a brand new roll of 12/3. Since you can read the listing information it is fine.


How could I use 40lb Propane tanks in a residential hook up? I have two 100 gallon tanks from suburban propane but end up using so little, that I am charged approx $5.30 per gallon. I am reasonably sure that I could use two 40lb tanks and do the legwork myself without much inconvenience but I have no idea if such a setup is advisable or even possible.

Right now, the propane is only used in my stove/range and as a rarely used backup to my electric heat.

Call suburban, tell them that you don't want the tanks any more.

Make sure you are present when they unhook so there is no damage to your connection.

I recommend that you use a pair of tanks, so that there is always a spare on hand. One is disconnected and capped.  (Bugs love to nest in the opening...)

Note that for emergency heating you can go through a tank of propane in a hurry.  There may be merit in buying your own 100 lb tank, and parking it next to your hookup.  You need a friend to horse it there, but it may be there for a LONG time before you need to refill it.

Also:  Here in Alberta, you can get an older tank recertified (Pressure test and a new valve) for much less than the new cost.  Not worth it for the barbecue size but for 40's and up it may be worth it.  Many propane dealers are set up to do this.

A final thought:  While $5 a gallon is too much, your project is going to save you only a hundred bucks a year, and the first year of that is gone to get your tanks.  Is it worth it?

Keep your tanks painted to stop rust.  Either aluminum or white.


How to secure apartment windows with external fire esscape Recently, a burglar attempted to break in to my apartment by coming up the fire escape and pry open the window.  Lucky I heard him and he was scared away when I turn on the light.
My apartment is on the second floor of a four story walk-up building.  The fire escape is in the backyard connected to each floor and meant to be access through the window.  Obviously, install bars outside is not possible due to fire code.  What are some of the things I can do myself or products to buy to secure the windows against intruders?

Alarm
You could pick up a magnetic window/door alarm (some more expensive models may also have glass break sensors).

If the window is opened, the alarm will sound.
Secure the window
You could purchase, or make a "security bar" similar to the ones used for sliding doors.

This will make it more difficult to open the window, though would not protect against breaking the glass. If you make/purchase an adjustable version, you would even be able to leave the window open slightly and still be protected (as long as it's not open enough for the intruder to slip in).
Protecting the glass
There are many companies that make Security Window Films, that can be applied to glass to make it "unbreakable".
Depending on your budget for this project, a combination of these products would be the best solution.


How to splice 220 line to use for multiple uses I have a 50A 220v box outside for use during a power outage to feed the breaker box on both bars. Since this is very rarely used, i'd like to use it to install a 'dryer plug' for a new shop heater. The shop heater requires 30A 220v service.

What's the best way to splice into the 50A line to feed the 30A plug for the heater?

Don't try this (at home, or anywhere else for that matter)

You'd have to defeat the function of the transfer device to actually power the heater (unless you wanted to use your generator to power it without throwing the transfer device over to the generator position).  Furthermore, once you did that, the generator inlet would be live, with live prongs sitting there waiting to zap unsuspecting folks with 240V.

And if you're planning on doing this because you don't have some sort of transfer device (transfer switch, breaker interlock) installed, then your electrical installation deserves a red tag from the local inspector, as backpowering the grid is a great way to accidentally zap unsuspecting linemen who are out there trying to turn the lights back on.


What curtain pole for a bay window? I have a bay window similar to the 1st photo below. When I moved in this house, there was a curved curtain rail system and 3 separate pieces of curtain for the 3 windows of the bay. As it was very fragile and seemingly broken I removed all of this. Now I would need a solution to replace it, but I'm really not sure where to start.

What would be the easiest solution, wood or metal, for such a bay window (the only condition is that the curtain must follow the shape of the window)?

There are standard curtain rods for bay windows such as this one

There is also no reason you cannot use three rods, placed close to one another, one for each window.


Replace rotted wooden sill of the door? I think this wooden piece is called sill but not sure, (as seen in the picture below, in red box)

I am think of replacing it with a new one, the question is, is it standardized? I measured it and the length is 36". Where can I buy it? Anything I need to pay attention to when replacing it?

Thanks

It's called a threshold and 36" is a standard size but many places might carry a larger size that has to be cut to fit due to door framing. Your best bet would be to remove it and take it with you to a home store and get a close match, they can vary a small bit in style but the height needs to be the same as it will fit up against your door. I have always caulk around any threshold I've installed just as an added protection against moisture. Good luck


How to put up a very small barrier on concrete to stop water running past it I have a concrete driveway that leads to the garage, with a very slight slope towards the garage.

When it really rains hard, the water comes down into the garage.

I don't want a very high barrier, just about an inch I guess would do.

What is the best way to do this please?

I will explore both good answers but cannot rebuild the driveway whilst I do have an appreciation for water and what it can do. This little wall will actually divert water from the garage wall to a channel that runs away from the property.

Glue-down garage door seal (sometimes called threshold seal) sounds like what you want. A rubber bump.


What could be causing water pressure to build up after changing my under sink filter? After I did a routine under sink water filter change, I am getting a powerful burst of water when I turn on the water dispenser that goes through the filter. It lasts only a second or so then the pressure drops to a slower flow. I removed the filter and looked for clogs or debris but didn't see any. It is the same filter that I previously had under the sink. I am concerned that the filter may not be working properly.

You likely have air trapped somewhere it shouldn't.

Water doesn't compress so when you turn on the tap, the flow is the pressure from the city divided by the resistance of all the pipe between it and the tap.

If you have an air bubble, then when the tap is shut off the air will compress until the pressure matches that from the city.  When you turn the tap on, the flow will be the pressure from the air bubble divided by all the pipe between it and the tap.  Since there is much less pipe in this case, the flow is much higher.

The pressure in the air bubble quickly drops as the water is pushed out until you again match the original case.

This is especially noticeable if you have have a smaller pipe somewhere between the city and the air bubble than between the air bubble and the tap since obviously the flow is limited by the smallest (cross-sectional-area) pipe.

Depending on the size/shape of the filter, it could be air in the filter itself.  See if you can fully fill it with water before connecting it.

If you shut off the house water while making the change, then air could have gotten into any branch going to a higher location than your sink.  If you haven't tried running fresh water in every single location in your home, that may be all it takes to clear out the air.


running sprinkler wire and power in same conduit? can i run the sprinkler valve control wires in a 3/4 PVC conduit along with one set #12 wire to a single outlet approx 12 feet

From an NEC standpoint, the main deciding factor about running different voltages in the same conduit is that the conductor insulation must have the same voltage rating on all wiring. Standard residential insulation is 600V so the control wiring must have the same rating. Low voltage wiring usually are rated at 300V. So needless to say this would not be allowed.

Keep in mind I am not saying this is a good installation. There are many other reason why I would not like your installation. I am just saying it could be done if it made the above requirements.

Good luck


RCBO independent circuit immediately trips, connected only to an air conditioner, what should I troubleshoot and what could be the problem? I have a RCBO circuit dedicated to an AC unit.  Obviously the AC is now off due to the fault.  It has tripped once before, but I flipped it back on and it seemed ok.  The AC stays off until I power it back on.

I noticed it has tripped again today, but when flipping the RCBO up, it immediately trips.

Since it is a dedicated line to just the AC, there is nothing else that could be pulling power and causing the trip.  What should I be testing and what can the potential problems be?

Edit 1: There is no intermediate switch.  I know enough (although unlicensed) to disconnect the AC unit from the wiring, insulate the ends, and see if the RCBO resets.

Edit 2: I've disconnected the AC from the wiring and the breaker trips immediately.  That's going to be a new question...

Some possible bad news here. Air conditioning systems have a sealed compressor, the oil and Freon (or refrigerant) is in a sealed loop, one common failure mode is some moisture gets in the system and mixes with the oil, then the mix becomes acidic and etches the varnish off the motor windings, causing small ground faults at first and later full blown shorts inside the compressor.

I would verify it is not a wiring issue as jack and 3 phase suggest. If it is OK with the unit turned off or disconnected, this may be the issue.
A HVAC tech should have a megger (a high voltage ohm meter) that can verify if leakage from the motor windings to ground are the cause of the fault.

A “window” type is usually not worth repairing, a small mini split may be worth repairing. I don’t know your laws but on this side of the pond repairs like this require a licensed HVAC person to recover the Freon and replace the compressor and filter dryer. Then the system is pumped down and flushed, the Freon, if not damaged, can be filtered and reused but, if it has turned black, it is replaced with fresh refrigerant and the oil charge verified. So you can see why we usually replace window units.


Railing placement and removable railing systems I need a removable railing on my bottom basement steps.  There is currently no railing but in order to move furniture or anything large downstairs I'm gonna need a removable railing.

It doesn't need to be pretty but I'm fairly certain I need one on the non-foundation wall side.

1) per the UDC, can I have a railing on the foundation wall and avoid having one where the drop off is (see picture)

2) if I need to have one opposite the foundation wall is there a "kit" that I can install vs building one?

To your question #1 according the the IRC, NO you have to have a railing on the open side of the stairway.

  SECTION R312
  GUARDS

  R312.1 Where required. Guards shall be located along
  open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, ramps and landings, that are located more than 30 inches (762 mm) measured
  vertically to the floor or grade below at any point within 36
  inches (914 mm) horizontally to the edge of the open side.
  Insect screening shall not be considered as a guard.

  R312.2 Height. Required guards at open-sided walking surfaces, including stairs, porches, balconies or landings, shall be
  not less than 36 inches (914 mm) high measured vertically
  above the adjacent walking surface, adjacent fixed seating or
  the line connecting the leading edges of the treads.
  Exceptions:

  Guards on the open sides of stairs shall have a height
  not less than 34 inches (864 mm) measured vertically
  froma line connecting the leading edges of the treads.
  Where the top of the guard also serves as a handrail on
  the open sides of stairs, the top of the guard shall not
  be not less than 34 inches (864mm) and notmore than
  38 inches (965 mm) measured vertically from a line
  connecting the leading edges of the treads.

To your question #2:

There are plenty of handrail kits for sale online and in the big-box stores. Just google "stair rail kit" and you will find many to choose from.


How can I continue a circuit from a light switch through a light using 12/3 cable? I'm remodeling my master bedroom, and in the process I have to fix some shoddy electrical work from previous homeowners.

It seems that they tapped into the existing circuit to add an exterior flood light controlled by a switch in the bedroom. There is a conduit powered from the flood light's junction box, which continues the circuit to an exterior receptacle, and a buried conduit that leads out to a shed in the backyard.

The original wiring job was haphazard at best. There was an unsecured junction box just floating in the attic. One NM cable and an unsheathed wire marked as hot (red in picture) lead to the exterior flood light box. Unfortunately, I neglected to take pictures of precisely how the floating junction box was wired, but I believe it must have been like in the picture (labeled "unknown"). The light switch had 2 NM cable legs connected to it.

So, my question

In the current state of the remodel, I've got the power in for the circuit, and the 12/2 and floating hot wire to the exterior light. I assume I'll need to replace the 12/2 + hot with 12/3. How exactly do I work in this light switch into the existing circuit, sending both a switched hot leg and a powered hot leg to the exterior junction box?

Should I run 12/3 from the light switch box, and power it light so?

Looks like posting it here was all I needed to sort this out in my head.

The wiring is a similar idea to wiring two switches to a ceiling fan with a light, using a 12/3 cable. Only here, I've got one switch for the light, and the other hot leg is tied in so that it's always on, not switched.

I pulled a 12/3 cable from the flood light box (wired the same as first picture) to the light switch, and wired it as shown in the second picture, which I'll post again below:

In case my drawing isn't clear, the yellow boxes are wire nuts, and the terminal at the lower left on the switch is the ground. The red wire (hot) is connected to the light.


What are the differences among "TSP" cleaners? A quick search turns up the following categories:

Actual  TSP (trisodium phosphate)
TSP-PF (phosphate free) - what's the significance?
TSP "substitute" - still not clear what this actually means

"Trisodium Phosphate removes greasy, sooty dirt and prepares surface for repainting" is a typical description.

What are the practical differences among these alternatives? I assume they can't all function identically.

TSP stands for tri sodium phosphate . Anything not containing a lot of phosphate is not TSP ,so it can be anything. I would guess some kind of detergent. Detergents formerly contained significant amounts of TSP but now it is politically incorrect . So I get TSP and add a spoonful to the dishwasher for each load . It is also very useful as fertilizer in the yard but watch your pH level. My soil happens to be very acidic so TSP is a win-win fertilizer in my yard.


Water coming in around foundation when it rains My home was built in the 1980s.  I live in Oklahoma.  Last month with all the rains I started getting water coming in and soaking carpets  I have a slab foundation.  I pulled the carpet up no cracks. I thought the water was coming in where the air conditioner lines and hot water lines run into the house. I sealed all of that but when it rained again I got more water.  There is a rock garden outside of that part of the house. Any suggestions

Have you checked your gutters. Every time I end up with water in my basement it is the result of some issue with my gutters. I have a lot of old trees around my house and during certain times of the year it is impossible to keep them clean (I know I need guards). If they back up the water pours over the sides and then builds up near the basement walls and eventually seeps inside.

Also, make sure the downspouts are all still attached and if needed get some extensions to send the water further away from the house.

Also, check the grade of the area surrounding the foundation. Make sure that there is a least a small slope away from the house. If the rock bed is too high - or if you have some kind or plastic underneath to prevent weeds it might be preventing the water from draining properly.


How can I frame a wall in a confined space? I have to frame a wall inside my cold storage so that I can insulate it. The cold storage is 5 ft wide and 30 feet long. I cannot frame the wall on the ground and raise it up like I would with plenty of space. In this situation would I just bolt the base plate and the top plate since the entire room is made of concrete and than just screw in the studs 16 in on centre? I also like this method because I can place the sill gasket on both the top and bottom plate. Where if I was raising the wall up it would be hard to place a sill gasket above the top plate.

I would appreciate any advice you may have.

I recommend that you should insulate this room like a basement: with rigid foam covering the exposed masonry walls, with the seams and edges sealed off to make it an air barrier. No need to frame anything at all if space is at a premium. I wouldn't frame anyway without rigid foam here, since the thermal bridging of the studs will compromise the insulation (especially steel framing), and a less-than-perfect air barrier will cause condensation on the walls that will drip down and rot out the bottom plate or rust steel studs from the bottom.


What screwdriver do I need for this 'star' shaped fitting? I need to unscrew the screw in this picture. It doesn't seem to be using a standard fitting however. What screwdriver so I need for this?

You need a Torx bit also sometimes referred to as star drive.

You may be able to get a fixed screwdriver with the right size one but it's generally a better deal to just get a bit assortment and mount an adequately sized one on some sort of a socketed shaft, depending on the application.

Note: Torx drive invented originally by Camcar Textron to eliminate the rounding issue standard hex drive bits suffer.


Installed new LED transformer with spring terminal, light won't turn on Transformer:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AcPLA2Pc8bgubRKxyaK6iwiYcjKNx6BZ/view?usp=drivesdk

LED light:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A_YCzH6FLdCCPRd5q3_LZW30tqzxeZZ5/view?usp=drivesdk

Things I've tried:

ensure cabling is tight
ensure main is working by using an old transformer and halogen light
LED light is working, tested in another socket
swap the main phase & neutral cable (order doesn't matter?)
swap the LED cable

I feel I'm doing something wrong but couldn't figure out what

Update:

I wonder if I didn't properly secure the cable. This is what the hole look like. There's no tiny screw that squeeze the cable. I thought screwing the one big screw at the corner is enough?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B5ZAns52IIxpQfNHN96DVvtETfw3M0Eg/view?usp=drivesdk

I wonder if I didn't properly secure the cable. This is what the hole look like. There's no tiny screw that squeeze the cable. I thought screwing the one big screw at the corner is enough?

These are spring terminals. The wire is squeezed tight in place by the force of a spring. They're very reliable if used properly... there is no screw to get loose.

First, prepare your wire, check the manual for how much to strip, and if it is flexible wire, make sure to turn the strands between your fingers to make it nice and tight, like this random pic from the net. There should be no loose strands...

Use a small screwdriver blade to gently push down the tiny pushbutton on the terminals:

Don't push it sideways or it might break! Pushing it down releases the spring, and you can stick the wire into the hole, then release the pushbutton. Pull on the wire, it should not come out.

If you want to take the wire out, push the button and pull the wire.

If you use solid core wire then you don't need to push the button to stick the wire in. Solid core will find its way in.


Does this Dewalt corded drill have multi-speeds? I can't tell if this Dewalt drill has multiple speeds.

If you see the letters VSR in a description for a drill, that means it is variable speed.
More to the point VSR stands for:

Variable
Speed
Reversable

which means the drill/tool can run from 0 RPM to the max RPM for the drill/tool in forward and reverse.


Code compliance of using UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) shims for deck leveling I'm building a deck that will partially sit on an existing concrete slab. Slab is slated and I need to level the joists with shims. I'm planning to use custom cut UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) pieces as shims, as they're much more durable than wood. But I'm not sure if they would give me a headache later when I try to sell the house; i.e., if an inspector sees them, would he/she/they raise it as an issue?
I live in Beaverton, Oregon. Any help is much appreciated.

I don’t think there will be any issues using UHMW. It will never rot and it can be drilled and screwed it wont break under impact so I only see advantages it is a vapor / moisture barrier also. I have used it for pool projects but not often because of cost, I live just south Benton , lane and Lynn counties and they would not have a problem with UHMW.


Can I cut a hole in the brick to install a through the wall air conditioner in a basement? I am looking to install a through the wall air conditioner in the basement. I don't want to block the one window. There is already a window in the brick. I don't know if there is any kind of structural issue with cutting and framing in the air conditioner.

Here is the air conditioner sleeve. LG AXSVA1

Approximate location in red dashes.

Cutting a hole in your foundation almost always requires an engineer, and is almost never a do-it-yourself project.

You'll need an engineer, to tell you how to carry the load around the opening. And you'll likely need tools and knowledge you don't have, to actually cut the hole.


Replace door knob with lever handle on rim latch door I have 1950s solid wood internal doors with rim latches.  I want to replace the door knobs with lever handles.  The doors are 33mm thick, with narrow (95mm) rails, and have rim latches.

I've been told it's unwise to drill out the stile in line with the lock rail (where the handle currently is) for a tubular or sash lock, as this will remove most of the tenon and weaken the door.

Just swapping the door knobs for lever handles on the existing rim latches won't work as the spindle hole is set too far in from the edge of the door for a lever.  The same is true for all of the replacement rim latches I've found.  I want the spindle to be roughly where the keyhole currently is.

Any ideas for the best solution?  Is it ok to fit a tubular latch?  Or are rim latches with the spindle hole near the edge available?

If the latch is in good condition, you could reconsider just replacing the knobs with new lever handles.  Yes, they'll be "inboard" (towards the center of the door), but you'll maintain the hardware.

Replacing the latch hardware

New rim latches are available, but they're rare in the United States.

You'll typically replace the latch assembly (on the door) as well as the striker (on the jamb) to ensure you have alignment between the two.

You need a mechanism which is furnished with a square hole, as well as a lever set with a matching square spindle (shaft).

It may be more typical to source these from Europe.  Here is one example of one that's currently available from a global hardware manufacturer:

  Union latch model 1209 from Assa Abloy

This is designed to be reversible, for either right-inswing or left-inswing doors.  The upper striker appears to be a "privacy lock", for example for a bathroom or bedroom -- the British may call this a "snib lock".*

Then using a lever set with square shaft, you're all set.  A "set screw" will hold the levers in place.  (Apparently in Britain a "set screw" is known as a "grub screw"!)   One lever mates to the latch box directly.  The other uses a small trim plate (escutcheon), as you'll see in the photo below.

Typically European latches use a 7.6 mm spindle and 8 mm hole (source), and antique hardware may use a 7 mm spindle.

European suppliers are used to furnishing matching compatible handle sets and can provide the correct length of square spindle as required.

Here are some current sources (2019) that you might use for starters:

  eBay seller

eBay UK, Doorhandleparts.com, Locks Online Limited, Timothy Wood Limited, Duffels Locks, and find tons of others by searching "Buy Union 1209 latch" or "Buy rim latch UK".

  *⚠ Caution about the privacy lock: In the USA, local laws or building codes may require a way to override this lock, for example using a small hairpin, so you don't have to kick the door in if the person inside becomes incapacitated or can't open the lock by themselves.  Verify that the lock you buy has this feature, or get a version without the snib-lock if needed.

A word about "backset"

Your question asked for a rim latch "with the spindle hole near the edge of the door".  This dimension is called the backset.

On a modern, tubular lock, there are usually different choices of backset depending on the door, and hardware that's sold "off the shelf" is often built to be adaptable so the store doesn't have to carry multiple sizes.

Backset dimensions of tubular locks, and the Union rim latch, are shown here:

It looks like the latch in the original photo has a backset of around 6—8". If you replace it with a new rim latch, you could obtain a latch with much smaller backset. Here are some examples:

Rim latch with 1-1/2" Backset, House of Antique Hardware
Rim latch with 3-1/16" Backset, Amazon.com
The Union latch model above has a 76 mm (~3.0") backset.  Union Online

I don't think you can go much smaller than 1-1/2", since this position sets up how close to the doorjamb the knob, and your hand, have to go!


Are plywood dovetails a good solution to building something that needs to be dismantled? Are hand cut, plywood dove tails feasible?
Assuming you can get "good" plywood, i.e. not the brittle splinter-fest I've seen around, is dovetailing feasible?
I'd like to avoid using glue for the corner joins as I'd like to be able to dismantle it to transport it.
If they are feasible, any recommendations on what specs to look for?  My assumptions having had a gander at the interwebs is:

Use thick plywood so there is enough surface area for the dovetail to hold.

Use some kind of backing board when cutting to minimise splintering at the edge of the cut (maybe cheaper plywood or MDF?)

This is an assumption, but a very fine toothed dove tail saw
This is the structure I am building (minis the horizontal supports, I know is won't hold up as is)

It will be used as a computer desk.

Dove tail joints are not a good option for any type of furniture that you would later hope to take back apart. Dove tails are designed to make a strong and attractive joint that is meant to be permanent.

For advice on how to create effective joints that are straight forward to put together and take apart take a study of the techniques used by kit furniture producers.

The types of fastener hardware illustrated can be purchased from a number of on-line wood worker suppliers (leevalley, mcfeelys, woodcraft, rockler). Search for terms including "cam locks", "counter top connector", and "knock-down fasteners".


How to find out why electric usage has more than doubled? Our home is 2700sqft 1 story. We have a swimming pool with a variable speed pump which barely runs and is on the lowest setting.  I also have a 40x60 workshop that has 100 amps coming off the house. I am only in the shop once or twice a week for probably no more than an hour each. We have radiant barrier in the attic. This month since it's been cooler we have barely used the electric heat and only turned the AC on maybe 3 times.   Our Kwh usage for the past year has been 5400kwhs up to 7898kwhs.   Our neighbor has almost the same size house and shop but he works in his shop daily for 6-10 hours each day. He doesn't use over 2000kwh per month.   My wife just told me about our $700 and up to $1300 electric bills.  This is ridiculous.  Thanks in advance for any info.

What is your heat source?  I had a rental house that had a heat pump that failed and the renters complained about a sudden spike in electrical billings.  BC the heat pump failed, the house was being heated with backup electrical resistance elements.
The most common cause of a spike in electrical usage is space heating.   Also, if you have a leaking hot water faucet (or other leak in a hot water pipe) it could cause the water heater to run much more than normal (assuming an electric water heater).


No heat but fan and blower continuous run I have a Trane gas pack 1998 unit that heats with propane. The fan and blower are running, but there's no heat blowing in vents: just cold air. What is wrong?

The high limit switch is dead.  Contact a local HVAC contractor for a replacement. While you're at it, replace the air filter on the furnace. Dirty filters are the number one cause of premature high limit failure.


What depth does a gate post need? I have an entranceway between my house and a wall. There's a concrete walk in the center with small patches of dirt on each side. I want to put a wooden gate across with the posts sunk in the dirt. This morning I dug down on the wall (hinge) side and hit the wall's footings 9" down. The above-ground height is 45", so I was hoping to get down 24". I also read two experts' opinions that concrete isn't necessary and can increase the chance of rot. I'm using cedar 4x4s and planning on attaching them to the walls (stucco) with lag bolts. I'm in Southern California, so no frost line. I estimate the gate will weigh 35-40 pounds. My question is: if I pack the post in gravel and bolt it to the wall, will 9" be deep enough to keep the post level?

The really professional way is to set a bracket in concrete, then bolt-through the posts to the brackets. While slightly more $ (cost of bracket and bolt) and more effort, this will give you a long life solution that is easy to maintain over time. The concrete for the bracket should be 24-30" deep, 8" diameter for posts of this size.

Setting the post in concrete will give longer life than simply setting teh post in the dirt. It is good to slope the top of the concrete away from the wood post so that rain does not puddle next to the post.

Some of us (who have been doing this for years) now also trim the top of the post at an angle, so that water is more likely to run off the top of the post rather than puddle.


What's the best / recommended way to mark and manage unused electrical cables I'm currently renovating an old house and I've taken the decision to rewire it at the same time (The current wiring is much newer than the house, but isn't to the standard I'd like). I'm very keen to make this is a one-time event and, as this is intended to be our family home for some time, there are a few things I'd like to futureproof.

A particular example would be the shower - it's currently fed from the central heating boiler. I'm sure this is fine, but there's no provision for an electric shower at all. I'd like to run some 10mm cable from the ground floor (Where the consumer unit is) through to the loft, 'terminating' it above the bathroom. It will be unconnected to anything at both sides (Here in the UK, Showers are on individual radial circuits) - but in future a shower could be installed, and an additional circuit breaker added in no time.

My concern is that a random 10mm^2 cable will look VERY suspicious and will rightfully concern anyone in the future. How I do safely and clearly terminate it - ensuring that it's clearly marked up for the future and is both perfectly safe should someone accidentally connect one end.

I'm currently thinking I should put both ends into junction boxes, marked with a printed label. And then perhaps mark all areas where it may be visible (I.e., in the loft, under the floorboards and in the consumer box cupboard) with some kind of identifying tape.

I'm currently thinking I should put both ends into junction boxes, marked with a printed label.

Seems perfectly reasonable to me.

  And then perhaps mark all areas where it may be visible (I.e., in the loft, under the floorboards and in the consumer box cupboard) with some kind of identifying tape.

Seems like overkill to me. It's pretty obvious that a 10mm2 in a domestic setting is almost certainly intended for either a cooker or a shower.


Wall outlet discovered to only use one white and one black I've searched around, and I can't pinpoint this exact issue on Stack Exchange (sorry if this is a repeat question). I'm not certain if this qualifies as a middle-of-run outlet, or a half-switch, or what the purpose of this setup is.

Anyway, my house I just bought was built in the late 60s, so I've been replacing all of the outlets. However, I uncovered one that has three combined neutral wires pigtailed out to the top half of the neutral side of the outlet, and three hot wires pigtailed to the lower half of the hot side of the outlet.

Why was this done? Is it ok to replace the outlet using the same setup, or should I remove the pigtail? Why are there three neutrals and three hots instead of two?

Here are some photos:

There is no reason to question these connections. Four hots in the same wire nut and four neutrals in another wire nut is perfectly acceptable. All this means is the the incoming line feed (one black hot and its accompanying white neutral) is connected to two other outlets besides the receptacle in this box.

The old red ScotchLoks I have are rated for 2 to 4 #12 wires.


Router bit for baseboards I have old baseboards in our house and need to replace just a two foot section. I figure it would be cheapest for me to attempt to mill mine own. I had a guy work on our house a few years back that needed to do exactly that and left me a small sample of what he made, which matches perfectly. I assume using a router would be the best bet, but what type of bit should I use to get this shape? This will be my first router attempt but I figured I would be out minimal amount of money rather than having a shop make this for me.

Likely a false economy. You might spend $200 or more on tools for the job...router bits are not cheap, and neither is a good router (though the cost of bits soon exceeds the cost of the router, be it good or cheap.)

My ballpark guess on "how that was done" (or could, most inexpensively, be done) is 5 saw cuts on a tablesaw and then cutting 3 edges with a roundover bit in a router. Not the quickest way, but likely the cheapest way to make a small amount. For 2 feet, you could probably do all the roundovers with sandpaper, preferably with a radius block, but probably freehand could work well-enough.


Sauna has regular plug but pops the breaker My Sauna draws 17 amps and blows the breaker after about 10  minutes,would I be ok to install a 20 amp breaker on this circuit.I realize that it is only 14 gauge wire but the sauna is only on for 45 minutes at a time and only 2 amps over.The sauna was plugged into a basement plug(closer to panel)and had no issuses.Should also note the bedroom plug that the sauna is now plugged into is an arc fault breaker

Do not upsize the breaker without increasing the wire size, 20 minutes at this overloaded value is about right for most inverse time breakers. I would put the sauna on a dedicated GFCI circuit since water is usually dumped on the rocks / heating element. Is the name plate value is 17a or is this the measured circuit draw? Since the circuit may have lighting included that could be what is pushing you over the limit, with a 16a draw the sauna could be safely powered with a dedicated 20 a breaker and 12 awg wire.


Concrete cost difference if forms done yourself Thinking about getting a 4 inch thick concrete slab poured for my back patio.  I was wondering if I dug everything out, made and set the forms, and laid the stone and rebar, would that be a significant savings on the total job cost?  The concrete guys would just have to show up, pour the concrete, and finish it.

Best way to find out is to ask a concrete contractor.

One potential problem with doing what you're suggesting is that there probably won't be a workmanship/cracking warranty, as the concrete guys may not "approve" of the stone & rebar work you would do.


Fix loose screw in sofa leg One of my sofa's metal legs now has a loose screw such that I can't screw it in properly to the sofa. Possibly broken as a result of moving. Is there any way to fix it or at least a band-aid solution that will fix it until I can get a new one?

Here is a gif demonstrating the problem. The screw is supposed to stay still so that it can screw into the sofa. I cannot remove the screw from the leg, although I don't know if that would be helpful. That cap is also welded on to the leg. Unfortunately if I try to screw it in like normal it doesn't catch on the threads. I've tried to use a small crescent wrench to screw it in while holding the leg, but it hasn't worked so far. There should be a nut to hold the screw in place, maybe it fell out because I don't hear it bouncing around in the leg. Not sure what I would do with it if I found it though.

I don't have access to a lot of tools or materials right now, so hopefully there is a simple fix. Unfortunately I also got rid of the extra legs the sofa came with, which in retrospect was a dumb move.

Thanks!

Well, I was able to get it to hold in place by wrapping the screw in a decent amount of packing tape. Seems like it's holding well, and of course as long as the screw is fastened the leg will do the rest of the work.

Still, I am definitely open to better band-aid solutions or what a proper fix would look like (i.e. would I need to weld it?).


Installing fixture with no junction box and off-center stud I asked a question earlier today here because I took down an old wall-mounted light fixture in my bathroom above the vanity, and was going to replace it with a new fixture.  Unfortunately there's no junction box, and the answers from my question above told me I need one.
I bought a pancake box that I can attach to a stud, but the problem I'm facing now is that the stud is 1.5" off center.  So if I mount the box to the stud, my fixture is going to be off center...  Picture of the situation below, the stud is about 1.5" left of the center of the hole.  If it helps, the light fixture has a circular base.
Any ideas what I can do?
Here's a picture of the fixture aligned to the stud (where I would be putting in a pancake box). But as it is, for the fixture to be centered, it would need to move 1.5" to the right.

Use a side-mount box and a spacer block
I'd use a side-mount or "L-shaped" type box attached to a spacer block screwed to the stud to handle this -- it'll require some drywall work, but will allow you to attach the fixture solidly to the stud while positioning it where you want it.  (Image below is an Arlington FB442 -- other manufacturers make products that'll work for this as well, I'm sure.)


How to test two-prong retrofit outlets downstream of GFCI Given old two-prong (ungrounded) wiring where a GFCI is installed nearest the panel and other two-prong outlets are attached to the load side of that GFCI, how does one confirm that all the outlets are properly protected?

As far as I understand things, a GFCI tester must leak some current to earth to confirm that it triggers a fault.  With the earth pin unconnected that test can't be done with a conventional three-prong tester.

Is there a more sophisticated test?  Or is there simply no such thing as downstream protection in ungrounded circuits?  Must every outlet have its own GFCI?

Testing the initial GFCI receptacle should be sufficient. No need to test the load side receptacles since they are protected by the GFCI. If the GFCI works, and the 2 prong receptacles are connected to the load side of the GFCI, then they are protected.

If however, you wish to pursue it, you would need a separate conductor run to a good ground. Insert the tester into a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter and attach the ground to the ground prong tab (or wire) of the adapter. Then plug in to each of the old 2 prong receptacles to test.

Good luck!


Do twin-blade circular saws reduce tearout? Do twin-blade / Twincutter circular saws produce a more accurate cut than regular circular saws? Do they have less kick-back? Do they reduce the tearout / splintering / chipping at the rear of the cut, compared to regular, single-blade circular saws? I'm looking for real-world experience, as I've seen countless sales-pitches on the matter.

The Twin-Cutter circular saws have two circular saw-blades spinning in opposite directions. It behaves similar to a regular circular saw, except with a slightly wider kerf (since there are two blades), with aparent benefits. Here is a sales pitch video on YouTube

Some additional articles which I find inconclusive:

Genius or Junk? The Dual Saw
Twin-Blade Circular Saws

I purchased one of these dual blade circular saws and to be honest they are no better than the persons talents using any power tools. Save your cash to buy the best quality saw that will give you the ability to do anything you want. My best investment to date in circular saws was my worm drive. It is heavier than others and needs more room but it doesn't kick back and has the power to cut anything I put in her path.Everyone has to try everything themselves so try to find someone who owns one and will let you try it out, plunge cutting is their major asset but this is no problem with my worm drive either  ;) :)


How can I find out which ethernet cable goes where? I moved in to a house where I have a bunch of cables in the basement that go god knows where. Is there a way to find out the destination and purpose of all of them?

I had a similar situation with a big bundle of plain CAT-5 cables in the basement. Each cable went to one random room in the house.

To determine which cable was associated with a room, I did the following simple experiment:

In the room, twist together two of the conductors to each other. I connected orange to dotted orange, just because it was easy to remember. Doesn't matter which two you twist together.
In the basement, for each CAT-5 cable, use an Ohmmeter to measure the resistance across orange and dotted orange. For every cable except the one where you connected the conductors, you'll see infinite resistance. For the one where you connected the conductors, you'll see no resistance.
Don't forget to untwist the leads you connected.

An ohmmeter is built into any cheap multimeter like this $30 model from Radio Shack and since I had one around anyway for other electrical projects this was easier than buying specialized network testing equipment.


Two plugs controlled by one switch I have an outlet where both plugs are on a switch. Is there any way I can make it so only one is on the switch? (It's a dual switch, one upstairs and one downstairs) I just want to be able to plug a lamp and a laptop in without the lamp being on.

This sounds like a standard "3-way" switch configuration. Each switch has a "common" terminal and 2 "carrier" terminals. Power comes into the switches on the common terminal of switch "A," travels between the switches on the carriers, then travels to the load (your wall receptacle) from the common terminal of switch "B."

3-way switches can be wired with the supply power coming into one of the switch boxes, or with the supply power coming into the load box (your wall receptacle) and traveling into the switches from there.

If the line voltage comes into the receptacle box, you can easily rewire it so that one socket is always hot and the other is switched. You would just break the metal tabs connecting the two sockets, and pigtail one of the sockets to the incoming hot conductor, while leaving the other socket wired to the common wire returning from switch "B."

If line voltage comes into one of the switch boxes, then you would have to run an additional cable from that switch box to the receptacle box.


Is there an easy way to replicate this ceiling texture? I have the swirly-tiny(stress the tiny)-bump texture on my ceiling on the first floor.  I will be doing some major drywall repairs on the ceiling and would like tips on how to replicate the pattern.  Doesn't have to be exact but would like it to be pretty consistent.

It is not a popcorn ceiling at all.  It feels like sand was mixed with paint and it has a random swirl with the pattern where you end up seeing "rainbows" of about 6 inches.

The swirl pattern whatever... I will just do what I can with that.  However how do I get the sandy pattern so even?

Also mudding between new drywall and texture.  Should I scrape the existing drywall down a bit before mudding?

That is in fact a "sand finish", your intuition was right.

Now depending on the age of the house it could be sand added to the plaster, added to the mud, or a "sand finish" paint.   The last is your best hope of matching, as you would drywall it all smooth then simply use brushstrokes to recreate the pattern.  There are premixed sand paints amazingly enough.

When I've seen this done with wallboard mud, they have a mixer on site to stir every so often (the sand settles slower than blueberries).  A quick google search reveals a number of pros complaining about how hard sand finishes are to match.  Practice practice practice, on some scrap drywall.

Using a piece you cut off the ceiling for repair, try to figure out what layer the sand was added at (plaster, top coating on drywall, paint).


Remove and re-insert female threaded insert? I have a metal rod with these threaded female connectors on each side. I'm hoping to cut the rod down a bit to shorten it but still keep the female connector on the side i cut. Is there a way to remove and reinsert this? I'm not sure how it's attached - I got it off amazon as a camera arm.

Cut the rod to the desired length. Then get a rotary tool like a Dremel with a cutoff disk. Cut the tubing that holds the insert lengthwise down to the surface of the insert. Make three or four cuts. Then pry the tubing apart with a slotted screwdriver, freeing up the insert. Slightly chamfer the inside edge of the shortened length of tubing and tap/pound the insert into the tubing.


Can I use a water based undercoat between solvent-based primer and top coat? I've primed some new wood with Dulux aluminium wood primer which is solvent based. Probably overkill, but I wanted a very good seal. I plan to finish with two coats of Dulux eggshell, which is also solvent based.
My question is firstly whether I need an undercoat at all, and secondly whether this also needs to be solvent based.
I have some Dulux water based undercoat which needs using up. Can I use this between two solvent based layers?

I would not mix types of paint like that.
Most paint systems I have worked with are designed so that the successive coats work together. Rust Oleum etc


How to repair door trim that was chewed by dog My brother's dog chewed/scratched my door frame in our apartment and I was looking for tips on how to fix this ourselves without hiring someone before we decide to move out, the apartment is pretty old so I was not sure just going to a home store would do us any good... Thank you!

It looks like the casing sustained most of the damage. It appears to be aged pine or fir. The challenge will be finding a matching profile. You may need to replace the casing on the entire opening face so that the three pieces match.

Look for a molding with the same width as the original and a profile of similar style. Depth isn't critical as long as it's aesthetically similar. A miter saw and small trim nails will be needed. Chances are a couple coats of polyurethane varnish will give a similar look after some time for UV light to darken the pine.


Why don't American homes have blinds on the outside of their windows? Traveling through Europe, seeing many different construction methods, I try to take an objective look at why things are done a certain way.

One of the most positive things that I see done in Europe compared to the US is that a lot of their (almost all in some regions) window blinds are built into the window unit and are on the outside.

The first benefit and a much sleeker inside that isn't cluttered by blinds and then there has to be a substantial insulating factor.

Is there any reason why this isn't implemented in the US?  And do you know of any reports/studies done on the comparative energy savings of outside blinds?

Note that this is a bit pricey because it has the electric guidance for the blinds.  Most have metal chains and the preferred is usually the chain since it is difficult to fix the electric ones plus the extra hookup.  I would expect to pay 200-300 Euros for a window this size normally.

They're not to everyone's taste. They roll up into a large box above the window -- either inside or outside. And they are more expensive than blinds. Maybe Europeans like them for the noise and privacy factor and that may not be as much of a concern here in the states. Having said that I have wished many times that I had them in my house. Favorite feature is that you can open them up just a little bit so that it has holes in it and you get some light and some breeze. But also very nice to just shut out the world outside and get a good nap in the middle of the afternoon!


Do you know any switches which turns on/off based on day light? I am looking for having some sensor based switches which will turn on/off the lights based on the light conditions during the day (i.e. turn on when there is less light and turn off when there is more light)

Also, is there a way to connect this switch with multiple light source?

Please let me know.

I was just looking at light switches last night at Home Depot.  There's enough options to make your head spin.

Photosensitive light switches are mainly used for outdoor applications, but some look like they should do fine indoors if oriented properly.

Automatic Dusk to Dawn Light Control - Screws into a light socket

Photocell Light Control Indoor Plug-in - Plugs into an outlet


I know there is a pressure vacuum breaker here, but what is the rest? First, a labeled picture of the situation:

There are three ends, two in the ground and one in the house. How can I figure out which way the water is flowing?
There are four labeled valves (and one hose bib valve I left unlabeled). I'm guessing C and D are part of the pressure vacuum breaker, but I don't know what any of them are for. What is the purpose of each valve? Turning them all off does not seem to affect water in my house (I only ran water for about 15 seconds). Does that mean water is flowing out of my house at end 2 and into the ground at both ends 1 and 3?
Some additional context: this setup is on the back of my house. I have a pool and an in-ground irrigation system. There is a double check valve in front of my house that I would expect to control my irrigation system, but maybe it only controls the zones in front of my house (I'll be buying a valve handle soon to test it).

In my area, it is common for PVB to break if incorrectly winterized, but local water code requires these to be installed and inspected annually, with an inspection report filed with the city water authority. I see duct tape on the PVB so this is likely cracked and causing the leak you mentioned in a comment.
I'd hazard a guess that water does come from the house at (2), flows toward (A), (B) and the hose bibb from there. You can verify this by closing (A) and (B) and running the hose bibb to ensure it still works. Run it long enough to be sure you have flowing water and not just clearing the pipe.
With (A) and (B) turned off, you can also test-run anything that you think is attached to them. Once the water in the pipes (1) and (3) is drained, they should no longer run (and if it's a pool and irrigation as suspected, you'd notice lack of pressure even before the lines are fully drained). You mentioned you may have a separate irrigation line so it's possible that one or both of these don't go where you expect. Specifically, if any of (B), (C), (D) are turned off and irrigation still runs, it's not fed from 3.
(B) (C) and (D) may seem redundant as they all feed or cut off the pipe (3). In my system, (B) is located inside the house to cut water off before it flows outside, so the system can be winterized. (C) and (D) are also for winterizing by pumping compressed air through each zone to clear out any water and prevent it from freezing. The shutoffs prevent air from escaping into the house as the lines are pressurized with air.


What kind of flooring is this? I'm trying to determine this kind of floor covering, which I saw the other day in a gas station. Any ideas?

that is LVT Luxury vinyl tile. Made for grocery stores by Armstrong. That style looks like the Natural Creations Diamond 10 Technology EarthCuts.

It is extremely durable. It is also quite expensive.

LVT is made by a number of flooring companies. The residential purposed lines are very nice and durable and made on a smaller scale to look right in smaller spaces. Just search for LVT flooring to find tons of options from big name manufacturers. Some are glue down and give the option of grouting with special formula product offered in complimentary colors.

Check out the commercial LVT here


Why is my roof leaking when it isn't raining? I've just moved house last week and today have noticed a drip in my dining room. What's odd is that it isn't raining - in fact, today is the first warm day of the year.
The "water" is a brown colour, but doesn't seem to have an odor. Moreover, I'm also noticing drips from the roof line on the outside of this part of the house.
It's a single story extension without plumbing, so I don't think it's a leaky pipe. The gutters are bone dry and there's no standing water on the (flat, leaded) roof.
What could be causing this? And how would I solve it?

When water leaks through ceiling it makes drywall week. Recently I replaced leaky hot water pipe in the house. A big area of ceiling was damaged. Not sure how big or a small ceiling portion is affected in your case. I would first make a small hole with a nail or at least 1/4” drill. If water is accumulated and comes out faster or more you may have to cut 12x12” piece of ceiling. (I would start their)
Let us know what is your finding. Making hole or cutting small portion of ceiling was suggested based on your info.


Metal clad (MC) cable: cut or rearrange it? Plus other questions on the options to install it I need 6 feet of metal clad (MC) cable. The stores only sell 25. Is it possible to buy only what I need?

If not, may I just hang the extra wire, or I must cut it to the length I need?

The only option to secure a MC cable is using metal brackets? Or I can put it in a raceway? The raceway in this case must be metal or can be a plastic raceway?

If I cut, must I use an anti-short brush or it is allowed to leave it without?

If I must use an anti-short, does these usually come with the packaged cable (found in home improvement stores) or must bought separately?

If bought separately, what would be the correct size for a MC cable 12/3?

Thank you for helping!

I don’t know of any place that sells it other than a roll. But you usually can purchase metallic and non metallic liquid tight by the foot and put the wire inside that.
There are both metal and plastic straps to secure MC.
I would say why even use MC if you are putting it in a raceway.

Usually there is a bag of anti short bushings with the roll look and make sure you get them and yes you need to use them unless the fitting has this built in.
 Inspectors do look for the bushing as many diy’s don’t know they are required.


What is the best technique for shaking a can of spray paint? ...and why is that the best technique?
This question seeks the pros and cons of different techniques for shaking the can.  What's more effective?  What's less likely to cause injury (including injuries from repetitive movements)?

This is not intended to be a subjective question or one based on style, any more than a question of "what is the best way to lift this heavy weight?" or "what is the best way to connect these wires to this outlet?"  There are some ways that are clearly better than others, and the reasons are not necessarily obvious, but someone who has a lot of experience with the subject might have figured out which ways are better than others.

Whichever way you find easiest.  Seriously it probably doesn't make a whole lot of a difference.  Put a drop of food coloring in a bottle of water. Stir it, shake it, invert it - eventually it will mix.  All of the cans I've bought suggest shaking it for a minimum duration and that is probably meant to ensure it is mixed regardless of method.


Splitting Service Equipment Across Two Enclosures My house has a 200 amp service with a (circa mid 1980s) GE TM2020R Mod1 panel where all 20 spaces are occupied with THQP breakers. In order to provide room for expansion and to allow for GFCI and AFCI breakers, I was planning on adding an additional outdoor 200A loadcenter, fed by subfeed lugs, adjacent to the existing loadcenter. The general idea is outlined by ThreePhaseEel in "The Streamlined Way" section of this post, although both of my panels will be located within (much) less than 24 inches conduit run of each other outdoors. The conduit running between the panels will be sized for the largest side knockout on the panels, which I believe is 2.5 inches.

Several circuits will need to be moved to the new panel that currently enter the existing panel through knockouts on the back of that panel. It would be considerably easier to leave these circuits entering where there currently do, and then run the conductors through the conduit connecting the panels, than to move them entirely to the new panel. Given that derating is not an issue due to the short distance between the panels and 60 percent conduit fill is observed, is there any prohibition in the 2017 NEC that would prevent doing this?

Also, given that the cost difference for such short wires is small and conduit fill is not an issue, is there any reason to prefer CU 3/0 or Al 250mcm conductors for the feeders between the panels?

Thanks!

Your plan is still code compliant in the 17 version. I like copper but you may find aluminum easier to find and it is a little easier to bend even though it is a larger size. Make sure to use an anti oxide compound especially with aluminum, but I even use it with copper. Also make sure to properly torque the connections. I teach my apprentice’s to torque break loose and torque again 2-3 times each time the wires relax and are more secure. With large feeders I wiggle them back and forth then retorque it dose the same as releasing and retorqeing.


gfci breakers vs afci / dfci If I use GFCI breakers do I still need GFCI receptacles? Also I see some combonation AFCI / GFCI breakers. Are these reliable?
And my last question of the weeek. Is the home run in a branch circuit a seperate neutral wire which connects the last receptacle / switch to the neutral bus?

If you use a GFCI breaker, you don't need GFCI receptacles. As long as the breaker provides the level of protection required at the outlet.

Dual Function Circuit Interrupter (DFCI) breakers are reliable.

"Home run" is not a technical term. It may be used to describe a dedicated circuit, where the circuit only supplies a single device. It may also describe branch circuit conductors, that run uninterrupted from the panel to the first device.


How to get cold air from one room to another This is the very rough outline of my flat:

    +----------+
    |Bedroom   |
    W           \
+---+----------+
|Ba |Living
|lc |room
|on |
|y  |
+---+----------+

There is no window on the living room just the sliding balcony door. The only window is in the bedroom (the kitchen connecting to the living room and the bathroom are totally windowless). I could buy a portable AC unit to make at least the bedroom bearable but how could I get the air from the bedroom into the living room? Cutting a duct sized hole in the drywall is possible of course but gosh it'd be very ugly.

If I got a long enough duct extension (I found a twenty feet one), would it work
with a portable AC? I could put a 14000 BTU unit in the tiny entranceway next to the bedroom door so it would cool both rooms.

I have thought of putting a water cooled air conditioner in the kitchen but a) I have no idea where to buy one in Vancouver, BC b) in light of Montreal just banning them what's the chance they are legal.

I have used temperature controlled fans in the past with a covers to transfer heat from the lower floor where there was a high efficiency wood stove to the upper floor. You could do the same thing in the wall using return air grates to cover the fan, the most expensive part of the project was the fancy window fan I used that both low and high temp cutouts and could vary the flow by using 1 or both fans. I don't. Remember the brand but it was expensive ~$125 for a fan but it has been in place for 14 or 15 years. I did put an outlet in the cavity so it looked like a return air vent in the downstairs and fancy brass heat registers upstairs I think it looks great and it moves the air quite Well, I think this would work in your case also.


How to reduce my electric bill Update Learned a ton about heat pumps, and wondering about Solar. Does anyone in the northeast have solar roofs? (solar shingles)

I live in an all electric home (single family detached house) in New York City, and my electric bill give me nightmares, and daymares. It comes out to about $900 or $1000 in cold winter months, and $400 or $500 in the summer. Less in between.

All the appliances, hot water tank, room heaters are all electric.

How can I reduce these costs?

Ideally, I'd like to remain all electric, and perhaps even opt-into sustainable sources of power.

All ideas are welcome : )

Without knowing more details, any advice is going to be very generic.

Preventing Energy Loss

Look into weather sealing, if you find windows or doors that are drafty
Add attic insulation if you don't already have it (or increase the amount if you are able)
Upgrade to double-pane windows with Low-E coatings to minimize heat loss in winter and heat gain in the summer
Fix leaky faucets
Turn off lights, power strips, appliances, etc. when not being used to minimize vampire-draw
Adjust refrigerator temperature to energy-optimal settings

In general, if you can minimize energy loss, you can decrease your costs. Energy that (literally) goes out the window is basically money that (figuratively) goes out the window.

Decrease Usage

Turn down water heater temperature
Turn down thermostat (and potentially use heated blankets or space heaters for comfort)

Consider using less energy in general. Most water heaters are set far higher than is really needed. While they are typically well insulated, it still leads to greater standby loss and somewhat greater distribution loss.

Increasing Efficiency

Upgrade your water heater to a heat pump model
Upgrade your heating/cooling systems to a ground-source heat pump
Upgrade your appliances to Energy Star appliances
Look into waste-heat recovery systems (such as Drain Water Heat Recovery)

The Energy Factor of an appliance is (essentially) a rating of its efficiency. Look for appliances with >.9EF, which typically means condensing water heaters/furnaces, heat pumps (see below), and better insulated refrigerators/ovens. If you pay for 100% of your electricity, it would be nice to utilize 100% of it (or more, see below).

A quick note about heat pumps, under most conditions they are able to provide greater thermal efficiency (denoted by the Coefficient of Performance) than pure electric resistance heating. This is because a resistance heater generates 1W of heat for every  1W of electric power provided. A heat pump, on the other hand, is able to deliver more than 1W for every 1W of electric power (often ~3) because it takes heat that already exists and simply moves it to where you need it.

The downside to some heat pumps is the minimum operating temperature may be higher than the low temps you experience in winter. In that case, you will need a secondary heat source (like an electric resistance heater or natural gas furnace).

Lowering Costs

Investigate alternative rate plans, such as time of use
Consider investing in solar panels

ETOU (as they are known here) plans change the electricity rate based on when you use the energy. Sticking to off-peak hours means you'll pay less and your utility likes you more for reducing peak demand.

Solar, while--potentially--a big investment, can potentially take you off-the-grid. Furthermore, you might even be able to sell electricity back to the utility for money, if you generate enough. Buying the panels, batteries, inverters, and related equipment is expensive, but many providers offer lease, loan, and PPA (where they act as your utility) options as well, which could mean no money up-front.


What does "Level flat to 3/16 per 10 foot radius" mean? I am looking at USFLOORS CoreTec Plus installation instructions (http://www.usfloorsllc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/USF-COREtec-Plus-Angle-Tap-Installation-Instructions.pdf) and it says

  Level: flat to 3/16" per 10-foot radius".

What strictly does that mean?

For example, If I have a circle room 10 ft radius, and it is perfectly flat everywhere except one 2 ft wide 2/16" deep dip, does that satisfy "3/16 per 10 foot radius" requirement?

No that doesn't satisfy the requirements necessarily.  3/16" over 10' is the allowed variance in slope.  That means you are allowed 3/160" every foot, not the 10/160" that you are stating.

The abruptness of your use case is what would worry me the most.  For instance if someone had a flat room and then it went up by 1/8" over a two feet span and then continued flat after, I wouldn't be overly concerned about that (althought I would probably throw a few feet of leveler down the day before install).  A lot of installers would just shim some underlayment or shingles here.

Having a dip is a different story because where does the pressure go?  Every time that you walk on that section the wood will "bounce".  Depending on the install method and wood it could eventually fail.  At best it is an odd spot on the floor.  For an area like this I would DEFINITELY fill it with leveler.  This is just $20-50 to make you feel a lot more confident in your install.


Can I put a recessed light in a shower? I am in Montgomery County, Maryland and I had a contractor tell me it's against code to put a recessed light in my shower. The shower is 3' X 3' X 7'1" (3 foot by 3 foot and the height is 7 feet 1 inch).

Here are my questions:

Can I put a recessed light with shower trim in that shower? (Everything I see says I can)
Do I need a special high pressure light as it's under 8 feet tall? (And If so, what do I buy?)
Any other code related questions that I should be aware of?

I researched it and put the light in and this contractor (who does this for a living) tells me an inspector would reject it, which I don't believe as recessed lights in showers are everywhere these days.

National Electrical Code is pretty clear on this, at least as of the 2014 version. It says that if the fixture is above the tub or shower, and within 8 ft. vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold, the fixture must be rated for damp locations. If the fixture may be subject to shower spray, it has to be rated for wet locations.
If it were me, I'd install a fixture rated for wet locations, just to be on the safe side.

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 410 Luminaires, Lampholders, and Lamps
II. Luminaire Locations
410.10 Luminaires in Specific Locations.
(D) Bathtub and Shower Areas. No parts of cord-connected
luminaires, chain-, cable-, or cord-suspended luminaires,
lighting track, pendants, or ceiling-suspended
(paddle) fans shall be located within a zone measured
900 mm (3 ft) horizontally and 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from
the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold. This
zone is all encompassing and includes the space directly
over the tub or shower stall. Luminaires located within the
actual outside dimension of the bathtub or shower to a
height of 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub
rim or shower threshold shall be marked for damp locations,
or marked for wet locations where subject to shower
spray.

NOTE: This code seems to go back as far as the 2008 version of NEC. So as long as your jurisdiction has adopted at least NEC 2008, you should be fine.
You should have no trouble finding fixtures; and/or trim, that is rated for wet locations. In almost all cases, the fixture or trim will be sealed to prevent water intrusion. A quick search through Home Depot's inventory, turned up this item for example.
6 in. White Recessed Lighting Reflector Shower Trim with Frosted Glass Lens
I'm sure you'll find them in all different styles, colors, and from many different manufacturers.