Can I substitute two wires for one heavier-gauge wire? Can I substitute two 14-gauge wires together for one 10-gauge wire? Using it from the generator RB-30 remote box, to the transfer switch inside a 6', 10-3 whip in the basement.

If the installation needs to comply with US NEC, 310.4 forbids paralleling conductors smaller than 1/0 (with some limited exceptions that do not apply to the described installation.)

  310.4 Conductors in Parallel

  Aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or copper conductors of size 1/0 AWG
  and larger, comprising each phase, polarity, neutral, or grounded
  circuit conductor shall be permitted to be connected in parallel
  (electrically joined at both ends).


Is my sink P-trap too low? Just put a new sink in and was not lucky enough to have the plumbing line up. I have it roughed in and wanted some insight/opinions on whether this will work, or what I need to do to fix it. I have a slope leading from the disposal to the trap, but with the new larger sink, my p-trap is about 2" lower than it previously was. I used a J-bend to meet the drain tail piece to the drain tube. It seems like I am fighting gravity a bit too much now as the distance between the p-trap and the drain tube is quite large. Will this setup work or do I need to approach it a different way?

Bring your Ptrap up or your Sanitary Tee down.

AS noted by others you can cut the tail of the piece  where it goes into the top of the Ptrap shorter ( thereby bringing the Ptrap up ), This will allow you to have the down hill slope you need for the disposal. You may need a longer tail piece from the bell on the basin into the tee from the disposal.

OR

I think this is the better option because your sanitary tee is a little too high.

You could cut your drain pipe shorter so the sanitary tee is lower.

Use a regular Ptrap ( non flexible, there is no need for the debris catching flex connection here ).

You also need to mount your air admittance valve properly.   It  is not high enough, put it as high up as you can in the space between the bowl and the back of the cabinet.

If you put it on a threaded connection  just above the san tee you will be able to pull it out to change it if necessary.


How should I mount this ceiling light fixture? I have a fairly heavy (a few kg) hanging lamp which came with this ceiling mount (and no instructions):

So, to mount it, I can remove the bracket from the cover, screw it to the ceiling, put the cover back over the bracket, and screw the bolts back in from the outside to attach them. But there's a problem.

On the inside of each bolt is a split washer and nut. How can I get the nut back on the bolt once I have the cover back on and flush with the ceiling? Apart from the central hole for the cable, there are three additional holes in the cover. These are unfortunately useless for getting at the nuts on the inside: they attach to three anchors for steel wires which support the weight of the lampshade, so they will necessarily be blocked when I put the cover on, and in any case don't line up with the bracket:

The bracket itself is threaded, so the nuts don't seem to be strictly necessary. On the other hand, since they came with the fitting and it needs to hold a fair amount of weight, I'd prefer to have them in place if possible. Am I missing something here?

Given the bracket itself is threaded, assuming the screws hold firmly (eg: are correctly sized for the threads in the bracket, and the bracket is not stripped), I would install it without the nuts.

The screws are transferring the shear load from the white cover to the metal bracket, which in turn is held to the ceiling box, which in turn (as other have pointed out) is hopefully firmly attached to structure. Even if you could somehow get those nuts on, they would not be supporting any load -- they would just be preventing the screws from pulling out.

From your pictures, the bracket looks of sufficient depth that there a couple complete threads, and the screws extend quite far past the bracket (meaning it would take several full rotations to get them out, which is not something that will happen to a light just hanging from the ceiling).

So:

Verify the box can hold the weight
Attach the bracket to the box
Wire the light
Screw the fixture cover to the bracket


How to take care of a butcher block countertop I have a kitchen countertop which is wood. It is not polished. After 3 years of using, I have many scratches,small black points (I guess mold) and it is getting worse.

I have tried to clean it with lemon and salt it helped a bit for black points but those areas that I cleaned now getting white. Should I sand it with sandpaper and then wood oil? If yes which sandpaper and oil would you recommend?

Thanks in advance.

There are likely many ways to get this done. This is how I would do it.

It looks like solid wood. The black marks to me look more like dirt trapped in cuts and abrasions gathered over time. So, on the face of it, it looks like sanding and polishing it would get it done.

Remove the sink and trims. Then plane it - some 2-3mm with a power tool. To sand it down with a belt sander is an alternative but it will take a lot of time, even with the roughest papers.

After planing, and confirming that you have reached the deepest dents, it is sanding time. A belt sander, used carefully (don't lean on it) along the grain of the wood. I'd start with 80 grit and then do 180 grit with the belt sander. After that it is either hand sanding or an eccentric or rotating powersander. I'd prefer eccentric, but either will do the job. I'd pick 240 or 320 grit for this part. A rotating sander might leave scratches against the grain that might need removal with hand sanding with the grain.

After that you have some choices. You can either lacquer it, it will save you any more sanding (except light strokes by hand between applications) and give a glossy and robust finish. Or you can oil it, in which case I would hand sand it further with the highest grit I could get my hands on, since oil won't hide anything of the surface. And then oil it generously, wait a few minutes, wipe off surplus oil then "let dry" and follow up by sanding it with high grit (400+). I say let dry, but the distinction is sometimes hard with oil, you should be able to run a hand across the surface without it being smudged. Repeat twice or as many times you want, but if it looks good enough, it is good enough.

Also, if you want to oil it, you have a selection of oils that will bring out different hues in the wood, or even color it lightly. I fancy those nice white-oils especially for oak. You can test different oils on a surface that will be below trim or sink or on the underside. But just plain, clear oil is often a good enough choice.


Fixing gap under one side of a steel garage door One corner of my new slab-on-grade garage foundation is 1.375" lower than it should be. My garage door is level, but as a result of the low corner, there's a gap on one side:

The concrete guy has agreed to pay for whatever reasonable solution is necessary to address this. Here are the things I've ruled out:

Mudjacking the whole foundation. I don't want to tweak what is otherwise a level, square, plumb structure.
Adding more concrete to this corner. Getting enough in without messing up the drainage may not be possible.
Removing some concrete from the other side. This creates other drainage problems (after running downhill about 12", the driveway slopes up and away from the garage).

The door vendor has recommended getting a thicker rubber seal on the bottom of the door. I'm worried that this will be ugly, could skew the door over time (since one side will be compressed more than the other) and may not make up the gap.

What other/better solutions are there?

Trough out the high side of the concrete where the door lands on it.

Get an angle grinder with a diamond blade. Mark the concrete on both sides of the closed door.

Cut 2 straight lines on high side and chisel/ grind  away a trough equal in depth to the 1.375” gap.

I used a laser to determine how much material needed to be removed.

On my neighbors house it only required about 14 inches of  trough to allow the gasket to make full contact.


Should I sand my traditional wood floor before staining? I live in a flat with traditional wood flooring boards. They are pretty much in  good condition although some have gaps of a few mm. Anyway we want to fill those gaps probably using Bona Gap Master (I heard it's good) and sawdust + resin. My main worry is to stain the floor with a darker colour and screw it all up. What is the procedure to fill gaps and stain the floor?

If you sand it you'll eliminate the charming deep grain and rough-sawn artifacts. I wouldn't sand anything but what seems like an injury hazard. I'd also leave the gaps empty. A hard-floor vacuum will keep it clean enough.

To the second question, staining without sanding will give very dramatic color variation in the open grain and saw kerfs. You'll get a nice rustic look. If you prefer a more modern, uniform color, sand it well to an even smoothness after you fill the gaps.

Having said that, I'm voting to close the question as primarily opinion-based.


Are "terminal block" style junction boxes allowed in the US? In the UK it seems pretty common to see junction boxes with built-in screw terminals that are used only for splicing wires from 2 or more cables together.
Typical example:

(source)
Sample wiring diagram:

(source)
[These particular links are just examples.]
Are these acceptable for use in the US? (assuming "typical" building codes which I know vary locally).
Given that the jbox is installed in an accessible location and used as per its specifications as to volts/amps, I'm not sure what other factors might determine if these could / could not be used?
Although standard US jboxes are versatile, an advantage of these UK style boxes is that they are quite compact and they assist in making what seem to be very secure connections. Also the round cover is cleverly designed to leave open only as many side 'ports' as there are cables entering; so no holes have to be punched nor covered. Its basically an all-in-one type product for the common splicing situations.
So I've always been surprised that (essentially) the same thing doesn't seem to be available here. They seem DIY-friendly in particular.
(That said, when I lived in the UK I recall many of these were cheap brittle plastic and had to be installed carefully to avoid breakage.)

I'm pretty darn sure the answer is "no"

Non-metallic boxes, as well as oddly shaped/sized metal boxes, in the US are required to be permanently marked (labeled) with their "official" volume in cubic inches so that the correct box fill calculations can be run for them.  This is Codified in NEC 314.16(A)(2):

  (2) Other Boxes. Boxes 1650 cm³ (100 in.³) or less, other
  than those described in Table 314.16(A), and nonmetallic
  boxes shall be durably and legibly marked by the manufacturer
  with their volume(s). Boxes described in Table 314.16(A) that
  have a volume larger than is designated in the table shall be
  permitted to have their volume marked as required by this
  section.

I seriously doubt that IEC-style splicing boxes would carry such a volume marking, rendering them unusable in the US then and there. Furthermore, the size of that box is similar to a North American pancake box, which lacks the volume needed for tapping even a 14AWG NM cable, by Code. (At most, you can splice two 14/2 cables together in a pancake box, or use that style of box in its normal habitat, namely hosting a dead-end light fixture.)

As a result of this, I seriously doubt these are at all usable in the US, and that's before you get to the fact that the one you've linked is likely cheap Cheese-pipeline garbage that's not even suitable for use in a UK installation.


how to remove quarter turn tap valve with no flat parts I am trying to remove a quarter turn tap valve from a bathroom sink mixer tap.  All the guides I've found expect there to be a hexagonal part on the valve to use a spanner to unscrew it, but this one is just round.  I've tried pulling it outwards with a spanner behind the lip at the top, but it hasn't shifted.  Any ideas on how to get this out?

Use a deep socket or box spanner (image below) to get to the large hexagon that is at the bottom of the hole in the top picture - visible clearer in the image if you zoom in.


Can I split a circuit in the middle of a 3-wire cable? I have an existing 14/3 romex that only has two standard lights on the run. I want to cut this wire, continue that run, but also I want a simple electric outlet in my basement. This is where the 14/2 would come into the picture.
I would tap into the existing 14/3, continue it, but then split off for a new outlet with the 14/2. I want to know if taking only one of the two hots is ok and continuing with two hots to the light switches. Thank you.
Please see picture.

You can splice into a 3-wire cable just as you'd splice a 2-wire cable, assuming it's not for a three-way switch or some other specialty case. Do it as you've drawn.
You'll need slack. If you don't have it, plan for either using two junction boxes, or splice at an existing box.
For the two-box method, mount two boxes at least 24" apart and cut the cable between. Make your splice in whichever box is most convenient and run a jumper between boxes. Obviously this means you need more /3 cable. Do not run parallel cables as a substitute, which would be illegal.
Be aware that junction boxes must remain accessible. Don't bury them in your walls or ceiling, or cover them with cabinets.


How to fix gaps in shelf without a table saw? I built this shelf for my office, I want to make it look as seamless as possible. I work with kids, only lightweight toys will go on this shelf. I was hoping some type of cover existed I could put over it. It needs one more coat of paint so I was originally thinking of just taping the middle parts together since I’m installing a bracket anyway. I included a picture, it’s on every shelf, but easiest to see on the bottom. Does anyone have more official/sage options? Thank you.

Option 1:

Disassemble the left portion of the shelf.
Cut all shelves to the same length as the shortest shelf.

It seems that you'll need to make a notch at the back edge of the shelf to wrap around the vertical support for the right side shelves.
It appears that the largest gap may actually be at the bottom - use this gap to shorten the rest of the shelves.
If necessary, cut the left-side back to match this length.

Reassemble, ensuring that the shelves on the left match up with the appropriate shelf-face on the right.

Option 2:

Move all the shelves on the right up or down a hole or two so they don't line up with the shelves on the left, thus hiding the fact that they don't meet up.
Arrange your storage so that this mismatched height becomes "necessary" due to the mismatched height of things stored.

Option 3:

Buy wider shelves for the right side so they butt up against the shelves from the left.

Material may not be available in stock form at your local supplier in the 1/4" - 1/2" wider width you need, you may have to buy something 1" or more wider, then rip the back edge down to get the exact width you need.
Ripping the back leaves the white melamine covering on the front untouched so it still looks nice, and it helps hide any slight wobble in your rip cut of a long board.

Finally:
None of these cutting options require a table saw. (The rip cut suggested in option 3 would be easier on a table saw, but it's not required.) As a matter of fact, a table saw is the exact wrong tool to make a crosscut on a long piece of wood like a shelf.
You would want to use a circular saw, jig saw (prepare for a shoddy looking, uneven cut) or even "just" a hand saw for these cross cuts. You could do the rip cut with a hand saw, too (been done that way for centuries before they invented electricity...) if you wanted to.


How to remove hydrostatic pressure from basement floor so we can finish part of the basement? We purchased a 3000 square foot ranch that was built in 1977. We would like to finish about 1000 sf of the basement. It has poured concrete walls and a concrete floor. Currently, we have two sump pumps, one at each corner of the house. They were put in separately and do not connect. We do not have standing water, just issues when we leave things sitting on the concrete floor. A cardboard box will result with some mold underneath. Carpet tile with a rubber backing will cause some molding, efflorescence, and lime deposits to appear. The efflorescence shows up in random spots throughout the basement whether they are covered with something or not. Sometimes the basement smells musty, and sometimes not. We run a dehumidifier.

We were looking at using a subfloor system such as DRIcore interlocking tiles or Delta - FL to lay under an interlocking floating waterproof flooring material. We purchased a few pieces of the DRIcore to test an area and after a couple of weeks, we removed the pieces and the concrete floor underneath was darker and damp.

We were thinking of having our landscaper dig down to find the exterior drainage tile at the corner of the house to verify that it exists and to see if it is clogged. But then what?

We called a waterproofing contractor and he recommended finishing the interior perimeter drain tile in the basement to connect the two sump pumps. We are waiting on his bid.

Not sure what to do first or where to spend the money. Will finishing the interior perimeter drain tile work? Shall we cross the drain tile at the center of the basement? What will this do to the structural integrity of the concrete floor? We would appreciate any advice that you all may have.

Do your sump pumps run frequently during wet weather? Does water leak through any cracks in the walls or floor? Do you get puddling or standing water in any area of the basement during heavy rains? Do you have an extremely high water table in the area?

If not, I suspect your problem is normal ground moisture not necessarily drainage water or the water table. The developer that built the house or contractor that poured the floor is responsible for not putting down a vapor barrier.

I would propose that amongst the other things you are investigating, you have a small section (maybe 1' x 1') of flooring saw cut and removed to look underneath the floor. This could be done in an area that will not be finished and could be a DIY project costing you less than $100. Or hired done for a couple hundred dollars. There should be a layer of heavy plastic under the concrete floor. (You could also leave this open to see if water puddles in the hole.)

If your basement floor does NOT have a vapor barrier under it, I propose all these other things will come to naught. If you are getting moisture leeching through the concrete floor then I don't think perimeter drainage is your problem.

The best solution would then be removing as much of the basement floor as possible and have the concrete replaced with a heavy plastic vapor barrier underneath.

Ultimately, if you finish the basement without entirely solving the moisture issue, I would recommend you never use carpeting. Paint on the basement floor may not hold. Therefore, check into just staining the concrete and leaving it after that if you want some color to the floor. This will still allow it to breathe. Throw rugs or anything else that is absorbent, on the floor will promote mold. You will need a dehumidifier running in most weather except for the very driest weather.

Good luck!


What Size Screw Should I Use? I want to fasten 1/2 " - 3/4" boards onto 2x2s. I'd like to scew them from the back so that they cannot be seen. What size screw should I use?

If you go straight through the 2x2 into the thin board, you'll only have a few threads in the board and it won't be very strong.  If you use a good wood glue as well, it will be much stronger.

This isn't something people pay much attention to in most cases, but a real wood screw is tapered - the shaft isn't uniform in diameter.  Likewise there are tapered bits meant to drill pilot holes for wood screws.  This will give you a little more strength.  Tapered screws aren't hard to find, the tapered bit may be.

An alternative to consider - a pocket hole set.  The Kreg brand is most popular.  They sell a special drill bit, jig, and screws that work together to make a stronger joint.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c1/joining/

I believe they had a starter kit available at the big box stores that wasn't too expensive.


Neutral on main service breaker? Beginning of the story was here - Is RC2040M150CH MSP upgradable to 200amps main circuit breaker

So now I got QOM2200VH main circuit breaker (200amps) and ready to install it later this week.

The only question I have is Neutral.

Notice that the current service breaker (QOM2150VH) has a bar which reads "N" on it :

The new one doesn't have this part (there is no plastic bar which reads "N" on it):

This a little worries me. Unfortunately I can't disconnect and check in details until the scheduled time with my electric service company to make the disconnect later this week.

Both circuit breakers are two-phase circuit breakers.
But the existing circuit breaker supposedly has a connection to Neutral!?
And the new circuit breaker doesn't have it!?

Thanks for any leads on this topic.

What you're seeing is a shield

What you're seeing with the "N" on it appears to be an insulating shield over the neutral crossbar on your panel.  There is no connection from the main breaker to the neutral in a North American electrical panel.


RCD tripping with fault on live wire only I am installing a small electrical board for a home renovation. There is a single RCD 30mA, EU standards (I am in France). There are ~20 circuits, each with their own differential, most are OFF, I am only using the lights and some power points.

One circuit is posing a problem since yesterday when I was pulling another cable through the box, it is causing the RCD to trip ever since.

The problem is strange, only the +ve cable of this circuit trips the RCD (neutral does not even need to be connected). If I connect the live cable to live terminal of another differential, or directly to RCD I have the same problem (CONCLUSION 1 : the circuit's differential is not faulty)

The RCD does not trip the other circuits (CONCLUSION 2 : the RCD is not faulty)

If I take (only) the live cable from the circuit and connect it to the neutral terminal of a differential, or RCD the RCD does not trip. (CONCLUSION 3: something strange is happening, why does earth fault only trip RCD live ?)

This circuit has several power points connected in parallel with some solder points along the way. The solder points are wrapped in tape and embedded in a stone wall. While the concrete was drying the circuit used to trip, but I let it dry for a few days and no problems since, until yesterday. I cut the cable close to the entry of the wall to check whether the fault was in the wall, or between the wall and circuit board. There is definitely bad insulation inside the wall connection. But it is hard to access and I would at least like a temporary fix that does not require breaking into the wall.

Is there any.

Why does the RCD trip when the earth fault is connected to RCD live, and not RCD neutral?
Why was this not a problem until yesterday?

AC power does not have positive and negative,  it has active (or live) and neutral

The voltage between active and ground is much greater than the voltage between neutral and ground, so connecting a weak fault between active and ground will trip the breaker while connecting it between neutral and ground does not.

The only temporary fix is to stop using the faulty wire. You could run a temporary wire on the surface of the wall.

Next time use electrical junction boxes and conduit inside the wall so that the cables do not bind to the concrete and can be serviced or replaced should they develop a fault.


How is a gable vent attached to vinyl siding? Apparently this gable vent wasn't installed correctly as there is a horde of wasps that has moved in.  My plan had been to douse them with waspicide, remove the vent, and then seal the hole, but I'd rather not be standing there for a long time figuring out the "remove the vent" step.
Online, it seems like a lot of these are installed with nails from the outside, but there aren't any visible, so it's got to be something more clever.  Does it just snap on and off?  Do I have to climb inside my attic and unscrew something from the inside?

FWIW, it is a typical install for vinyl siding.
This could be installed in 2 different ways. Either way the vent or portion of the vent is installed before the siding goes on.
First way, a base plate or ring that will hold the grille/vent is nailed in place first. It defines the shape of the vent, and provides the means to hold the finished part that shows in place. This allows for easy cutting and installing the siding with the proper expansion gaps around the base of the vent.
The second way, it goes on as a one piece unit, with a nail flange just like the first one, that gets hidden by the siding, but this one will need to have the siding place into the groove around the perimeter, making it a bit more difficult to install.


Ground wire size for meter pedestal to subpanel I have a 160' run between my meter pedestal and my 100a subpanel. The table for sizing the conductors accounts for the length of run, but NEC 250.122 for sizing ground wires doesn't say anything about length of run. It just shows number 8 (cu). Does length of run effect the ground wire size? The meter is grounded with 2 ground rods and the subpanel is grounded to the rebar in the footers per code in my area.

The grounding conductor is sized based on the largest ungrounded (hot) conductor. So if you have to use a larger ungrounded conductor due to distance, the grounding conductor will scale up as well.

8 AWG CU ground is good for up to 2 AWG CU ungrounded (hot) conductors (If I'm not mistaken).

250.122 is for sizing equipment grounding conductors. The ground wire running from the meter to the panel is not actually an equipment grounding conductor, it's actually serving as a grounding electrode conductor. Which means it should be sized based on 250.66.

You might want to ask your local building department, as they might allow you to use 8 AWG.  After all, I'm not a professional, so I could be interpreting the code incorrectly.


Can deck posts be rested on a patio slab? In reference to the undersized concrete pier discussed in this other question:
Is the following solution a feasible one from the standpoint of distributing load over higher number of posts? (and thus minimize digging piers)
Here is what I have in mind: the ground from the house is made of concrete that extends 7ft from the house, and only then does the soil/grass start. If you look at the diagram in the first answer of the linked question, 2/3 of that ground from the ledger board is concrete (I checked the thickness and it is at least 4 inches). So my idea is to place three 4x4 posts on that concrete (at ~6ft from and parallel to the ledger board), notched to support a (2x10?) beam. The posts will be secured to brackets bolted to the concrete floor. I believe 4x4 would be adequate for the 3 posts on concrete slab.
Again, is this a sound way to decrease load from undersize posts?

Generally speaking, floating slabs are not suitable as post footings. You're likely to see cracking under load, and if the soil underneath is unstable you'll see substantial settling.
If the question is whether it'll work in combination with your other post footings, we can only guess. It depends on the exact nature of the soil substrate, the amount and frequency of rain in your area, the total load on the posts, etc. None of us will be able to give you a better answer than what was stated in the answers to your other question.


How can I repair a surface chip in a bathtub? I accidentally damaged my tub, the color is still there but the finish or outer layer shell is missing.
Any ideas how I can repair this without making it look worse?

IMHO, IME, you're going to have to replace the tub to get a truly acceptable fix.
Your description of the material suggests acrylic over fiberglass, or at least that's the most common sort of "plastic" tub these days.
There are various products that can be used to attempt repair. They are probably better than doing nothing, but the odds of getting a repair that looks "like it never happened" are, in my experience, very low.
The primary difficulties are precise color matching and getting the finish of the repair to match & blend with the finish of the rest of the tub. Bonding can also be an issue, but that's generally less of a problem (assuming reasonable attention to detail.)


Re-surface desk for laser mouse I have an IKEA desk with a subtle fake wood grain paint layer (black) on the surface. The paint in the area that my mouse moves has worn away leaving a shiny textureless surface that the laser mouse doesn't detect.

What's the simplest, cheapest, most effective way to re-surface that region (or the whole desk)?

I don't like mouse mats. I'm thinking wallpaper or paint, but I don't know what types of paint will provide the surface required for the laser mouse to accurately detect movement.

Shelf liner (contact paper). Cut it into an oversize mouse pad shape with rounded corners and stick it down. You want it large enough that you aren't snagging the edge with your arm, keyboard, etc. It'll feel like nothing but give your mouse a better view.

You could use black so it's not so conspicuous, but a bold color pattern might be spiffy. Change it out when it gets polished or worn.


Best way to fill gaps between lumber and masonry or rocks We have built 4x4 retaining walls around existing rocks and concrete that we were unable to get rid of. The idea was - and is - use something fill the gaps between the lumber and the rocks / cements. Given that some of the gaps are over 2 inches, what is the best - and easiest - way to fill these gaps?

I have seen fine wood dust mixed with a putty of some kind mixed and placed inside gaps, if the wood is stained then also add a little stain to match the color.
Sanding down to the exact shape would have been the first step for me then doing the filling.


Any difference for a pressure-assisted toilet? Can a gravity flush toilet be swapped out for a pressure-assisted toilet? Are there any differences in plumbing, mounting, etc.?

It looks like there's no difference in plumbing requirements from this installation guide.
This regular toilet installation guide lists the drain and vent requirements:

it requires its own 2" minimum vent and a drain of at least 3" in diameter

As far as retrofitting a pressure assist vessel into an old gravity flush toilet, I wouldn't try it. Pressure assist toilets are designed differently than gravity flush ones. Flushmate's website warns:

The FLUSHMATE® Pressure-Assist system cannot be retrofitted into a standard, gravity-fed toilet.

There might be a retrofit kit out there somewhere, but I'd be wary about how well it would work.


How do I test a GFCI circuit breaker (without pushing the "test" button)? I want to test if my oven can trip the GFCI. The leakage current should not be a problem but I worry about the GFCI would trip at high frequency. So I bought three circuit breaker and tested oven on them individually. They all didn't trip.
But I just realize that my lab has a circuit breaker too. Will the circuit breaker on another circuit breaker impacts my results?
The oven is a commercial oven. I am not familiar with how commercial kitchen do this. Do you think I should buy some portable GFCI and receptacle GFCI to test as well?

They do make testers but it depends on where you live to the model used.
I will guess you are in the US since this is a new requirement.
The good thing about us power is the max voltage to ground is 120v
240v is 2 120v lines that are out of phase so the max voltage to ground is 120v where other places in the world have 240v to ground.
I have a fancy one that plugs into a wall socket and a precision 10 turn pot so I can verify from 3ma to 100 ma depending on the type of protection required (personal or equipment),
According to the NEC commentary in the handbook GFCI’s for personal protection is required the set points are from 4-6 ma  you can do like I did with my 180$ tester and turn it into a 4 wire tester with a receptacle and a plug mounted in a box (ok the first few times I did it I just used wires on the prongs but you can use a standard tester with an adapter to test Connecting the smaller prong (hot) to one of the hot(s) and the ground round pin on the tester to the ground on the stove receptacle
When the test button is pressed a 15.5k resistor is connected from ground to a hot this is above the 4-6 at almost 8 ma but a good test unless you want to purchase the pro model and record the exact trip point I have a switch on my setup so I can test both hot’s after checking 5 or 6 they all trip at the exact same level no matter which hot is connected.
I used a standard 120v receptacle single a single pole double throw switch And a 50 a 4 wire range power cord , plug my tester in and push the button on the cheap home owner one or dial the resistance until it Tripp's this fit in a single gang box with a 3/4 cord grip. I have not seen a commercially available tester so I made one that will work with either of my standard receptacle testers.
If you really want to test this was the cheapest way I could find to do it.


Minimalistic toilet setup in a traveler's trailer Planning to build a traveler's trailer from a cargo trailer and was thinking about various toilet setups. I don't care if the trailer looks awful as long as it's cheap and easy to build.

I'm ruling out the composting toilet. I've seen some freezing toilets on the web, but I can't help to ask myself one question:

Why can't you have a bag over something similar to a conventional toilet and then dump it in the freezer each time you use the toilet?

Then when considering the flushing toilet + a wastewater tank, what's the minimalistic setup possible?(cheap and easy to build)

Here in the UK, we always use chemical toilets for this sort of thing. They have a removable waste tank built in that in many models can hold at least a person-week's waste, and the chemical keeps it from smelling for that long even in hot weather. The capacity lasts a lot longer if you don't use it for everything. Emptying can be done into a normal toilet (e.g. at home) or at an emptying point for RVs, and the chemical additive is available in a type suitable for septic tanks. Most use a cassette tank that's removed through a hatch on the outside of the vehicle.

I'm sure you can buy the chemical in the US, whether the toilet is available is another matter. Brands over here include Thetford and Porta-Potti. They're usually made of plastic so are much lighter than a domestic toilet, and also use much less water to flush.


How to flatten handsaw cut edge? I have a piece of wooden board in the shape of the following image. The unit is in centimeters. And the board is 2.5cm thick.

On both sides, I've cut a 45-degree piece off using a Japanese pull-saw. The edge cut is not bad, and I did manage to saw according to the lines I drew. But when I try to attach two of such piece together, you can tell immediately that the 45 degree edge is not in perfect angle. It's not perfectly flat either.

I can't use a plane to flatten the edge because of its shape. I couldn't get a good grip, and the edge seemed to be pretty rough.

I've been trying to use a handsaw to fix the edge by attaching it to the edge while carefully sawing. It only solves a part of the problem. Is there a better way to flatten the edge (hopefully without a router)?

Cutting a miter like that is best done on a table saw with a crosscut sled, or with a well tuned miter saw, or (failing either of those options) rough cutting the miter with a hand or circular saw and then dressing them with a hand plane or large disk sander. Given the dimensions your best option at this point is to use what's called a "donkey ear shooting board" (shown here) with an appropriate hand plane on a good solid workbench. For best results you will need a fairly sharp low-angle jack plane to perform this operation but it can be done with a standard jack or jointer plane if they are very well tuned. Best of luck!


How tight should studs be when framing in place How tight should studs be when framing a wall and cutting them to length and installing them in-place?  Ideally I'd be able to cut my wood accurate to 1/64th, but that ain't happening.  If they are a little short than the stud will just wobble, but if they are long then they need a little nudge with the hammer.  The friction seems to be the way to go, but are there problems if the stud is TOO long? (i.e. can the floor move up, thereby pushing on the studs -> joists?  FWIW, I'm on the East Coast and not somewhere crazy like CO where they have to have floating walls.

I assume that you're referring to interior, non-bearing walls, such as those in a previously unfinished basement. Ideally the studs will fit just snugly enough to hold them in place as you nail them in. You're right that you can jack up the floor if you force them in, but it's more likely that they'll bow a bit.

If they're slightly short it will be more challenging to nail them in accurately, but it won't likely cause any issues. Most of their function is to support drywall, and they'll do that just fine.  You can always pop a shim in at each joint, or squirt a dab of construction adhesive to fill the gap.


Wiring generator to shed panel I purchased a pre wired shed that has a small panel in it. The panel itself has a single bus bar for neutral and ground, and two hot rails.

Currently all the circuits in the shed have ground and neutral bonded on that bus bar with the hots for each circuit in the breakers as you would expect.

Coming into the panel is a 4 conductor wire coming out of the generator. It is 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground. The hots are wired into a 220 breaker, however I am not sure what to do with the ground and neutral.

Should the ground and neutral from the generator be bonded together via the bus bar? Or something else?

Any help would be appreciated.

You only have one choice here

Your generator has a bonded neutral, according to the manual I was able to find for it online, and I also could not find any instructions for removing that internal neutral-ground bond.  The bonded neutral is all well and good, and in fact the way it must be configured for standalone use, but this means that if you are using it to power up a structure, you will need to separate neutrals and grounds within the structure's panel, as if it were a subpanel.

As a result of this, you must go to a supply house or hardware store, get a Square-D PK7GTA ground bar kit, and fit it to your panel, as well as pulling the green bonding screw out of the panel in your shed.  You will then wire up the inlet as a four-wire connection with neutral to the neutral bar and ground to the ground bar; likewise, all ground wires that are currently terminated on the neutral bar will need to be moved to the ground bar.


Do I need to sand my pressure-treated deck before staining? I just got a new deck built using pre-treated wood. Do I need to sand it down before staining? I was told it was already sanded since it was pre-treated and it looks smooth and feels smooth so I don't think it needs sanding, but I would appreciate any feedback.

All typical lumber is S4S (sanded on four sides). Really, this means that it was milled on four sides, but it's usually quite smooth. That said, I usually hit railings and other commonly touched areas with a random orbit before finishing.

The bigger question is how long to wait. Pressure-treated lumber is extremely wet and must be allowed to dry to some degree. Follow your product's recommendations.


Sub panel for 8 double pole breakers I need to wire 4 220 Volt Inverter ACs, a 220 Volt Water Heater, and a 220 Volt well pump. I'd like to have at least 2 empty spares.
What type of BR Breaker box should I look for? Is something like a 12 space, 24 circuit 125 amp box ok?

I was recommended a GE 125 Amp outdoor copper bus 12 spaces 24 circuits model TLM1212RCU. One of the breakers recommended was a 50 amp 1 inch double pole model BR2GETHQP250.

12 spaces is OK for this, but 20 or 24 spaces would not be out of place

A 12 space panel is a bit small, but OK for this job, given that you'll be using main lugs here.  I would upsize to a 20 or 24 space unit though if at all possible -- as Harper said, "Spaces are cheap, regrets are expensive."

I'd stay in the BR line, however

Whoever recommended you a GE panel, though, was silly, and that breaker P/N isn't even a valid Eaton part number!  (The correct Eaton P/N for a 50A two-pole breaker for that panel is CL250, BTW, and the corresponding native GE breaker for that would be a THQL2150.)  I'd just get something like a BR2424L125G for this (provided it's indoors -- the outdoor counterpart is a BR2424L125R, but you'll need to field fit the grounding bar yourself in that case).

Don't forget the details

Make sure you pull the bonding Z-strap in the new subpanel, and also torque all the panel and breaker lugs to manufacturer's specs with an inch-pound torque wrench!


How do I know if a ceiling fan with light and the switch are wired correctly? There was a old ceiling fan with light and remote in a bedroom of my house that didn't work.  It also had a switch with 2 knobs that pushed in and turned labeled motor control and 300 w perm instld incand it had 3 wires coming out of it red, black, and yellow, but the yellow wasn't connected.

Coming from the box was red and black which are both hot and were connected to the switch, and white.

So in the ceiling I have 3 cables, 2 of them black and white, and the 3rd is red, white and black.

So I bought a Hampton Bay 52" Ceiling fan with light and remote.  I connected all the wires like the manual said . Nothing would work. So I connected it without the remote receiver and when I turn back on the power it comes on. But with no remote I cant control it.

I purchased a Lutron fan control & Dimmer Skylark s2-lfsqh-wh. And I cannot get it to connect to the fixture.

From what you've described, this is what I think you're wiring should look like.  Keep in mind, this is just a guess. I can't see what's going on, and I'm an internet away, so I can't touch/measure/test anything.

The wiring diagram for the switch, can be found in the installation instructions.

If you provide images, and/or a better description of what wires and cables are in each box. I'll be able to provide a better guess, as to how this should be wired.
NOTE:
The diagram is based on your description, and is my best guess as to what your wiring looks like.  If you're not sure what to do, or feel like this project is over your head. Do not hesitate to contact a local licensed Electrician.


How do I change recessed GU10 bulb? I have a gu10 spotlight that needs a new bulb. But, i cant get the bulb to drop down far enough to grab the small rose thats its inserted into so I can twist it free.

Should I yank the cable in the hope that if its snagged it will come free, or is there another way?

You need to use a suction cup. It will allow you to push it in and twist. I've always just used one from around the house. I only have two gu10s in my house. I'm sure you could order one on Amazon that would be designed for the job.


Octagon box wire access point I’d like to run the wire into the octagon box from the “top” (in the knock out with the pencil in it). However, the way the wire clamps on the inside are designed would suggest it is not ideal ie, does not secure it well and has a rather “sharper” edge. Having at knockout designed on the top would suggest this is acceptable. Am I missing something?
Thanks!

Example of how the octagon will be mounted:

Thanks!

To use the knock out in the middle of the box you Need to use a lock nut type clamp.
You remove the lock ring from the clamp and pass the threaded part of the body through the knockout from the outside and then place the lock nut on the threads from the inside of the box And tighten.
Then you can thread your NM Cable (Romex) through the clamp and tighten down the clamp screws.

This  article will explain it.


Leviton Dimmer Switch Model DW1KD I am installing a new Leviton Dimmer Switch (model number DW1KD) to replace a normal wall switch.  My electrical to the existing switch has only two black wires (I do know which is hot), and a ground wire.  The Leviton Dimmer has 5 wires, but only 4 (black, white, green and red) are required to be connected for a single pole install.  My dilemma is, where does the red wire go?  Currently I have the hot black cable connected to the black wire on the dimmer, the white to the other black neutral wire, and the green to ground.  This does power the switch itself, but does not turn on the light.  Can anybody tell me how to hook up the red wire in this instance???  Thanks in advance for your help!!

From the description provided for the existing old switch it sounds like that was wired as a simple switch loop. As such there is no NEUTRAL in the switch box. The HOT black lead is bringing the line into the box and the other black wire is connecting out to the load (light). That load black wire may actually be a white wire that has been sleeved with a black tubing, painted black or taped with black electrical tape.

From the installation sheet for the DW1KD the switch is a smart switch and will require a NEUTRAL in order for it to function.

You will not be able to get this to work with the existing wiring. Since the HOT is clearly off in the electrical box at the light you will have to work out running a new cable from the light box to the switch box that has a four conductors (HOT - Black; NEUTRAL - White; LOAD - Red; GND - bare wire).

From the above diagram note that the Red wire of the new switch goes to the load. The Black wire on the switch goes to the HOT entering your switch box. The White wire from your new switch has to be connected to the new NEUTRAL that will be provided by the new cable that you need to run.


why is a service neutral grounded but not the subpanel-neutral? I know it's code (refer to NEC 250.24(A)5 and 250.32), but I don't understand why you can't use a bonding jumper to connect the ground bus and neutral bus in the subpanel? I've been told it's because then you'd have current on the grounding conductor. In my attempt to understand this, I was thinking maybe it's a more of an issue of having parallel neutrals... but if they're grounded on both ends, how would that (not) work? Possible safety issue: if one of the grounds becomes disconnected, then you have a true parallel neutral... is that a viable or better explanation, or is current on the grounding conductor the real issue?

If so, then why isn't current on the grounding conductor(s) from the main panel a problem? I don't see the inherent difference between a subpanel and a main panel. Ultimately this question is, why bond neutral and ground in the main panel, but not the subpanel (besides NEC said so)? Why is the neutral from the main panel to the subpanel inherently different from the service neutral to the main?

edit- you may also refer to: How to properly ground a subpanel in detached building? for a relevant picture and because it is a related thread.

Ground and neutral are not parallel neutrals.  I know it looks that way because they're bonded in the main panel.  But shift into a different way of thinking about the purposes of the 2 wires.  Think of the ground solely as a safety shield.

Let's try a few pairs of examples.  The first is Code and the second bonds at the sub-panel also.  The orange glow is on things which are "hot".

Seems awesome right?  Poor old Code Man is in the dark.  His power tried to return via neutral, and neutral is broke, so the power failed.  Rogue Man is one happy guy and his life isn't disrupted.  Ground is working great as a "backup neutral".  He doesn't even know he has a problem!

Of course, ground is a thinner wire, so it might overheat, but so what?  Or, what if both ground and neutral were cut?

Code Man is still in the dark and he's still gotta fix those wires.  Rogue Man is dead.

In Code Man's installation, the hot went through the bulb, looking for neutral.  It didn't find it, so it pulled the neutral up to 120V ( not enough power for useful work, but plenty to shock).   It did the same for Rogue Man, but since he tied neutral to ground in the sub-panel, ground is now also 120V, including the service panel cover and the switch plate cover screws.

Suppose the sub-panel has its own ground rod.  That doesn't help much. Earth tends to have high resistance, so the cover screws might be 103V instead of 120V.

I have the good fortune of working in EMT conduit in a steel building, which naturally forces the entire conduit system to ground.  Ground is never part of the circuit in any way whatsoever.  So I get to see it as intended, as a protective "shroud" around all things electrical.

Ground isn't quite yet a perfect envelope.  It is in new work, but we still have a lot of old wiring out there that is not practical to outlaw entirely - such as NEMA 10 and switch-loop smart switches which poach ground as a neutral.

Why bond neutral at all?

That's a GREAT question. Not bonding ground would give you an isolated system.  And that makes a lot of sense in some ways, like solving some of the problems you see above. But it has other disadvantages.  I go into depth about that here.


Power to light then out to outlet and switch wiring question I have power coming into this can light and then to the switch, and then to another can in the room. I would like to have an outlet that comes on with the switch. I assume I would just pigtail with the wires that are running to the second light with my outlet wires? Just want to make sure this is correct.

Sure you could use the hot, neutral and ground from the 2nd light or the first to power your switched receptacle and pull the wire to wherever you want the receptacle.


Ensure that a closed door is a completely locked door? I live with a person with lock anxiety, and I'm looking for a DIY solution. I already have an alarm system that beeps if a certain door is closed, but how can I also make sure it's completely locked?

The key word is "completely". The door already has a deadlatch and a dummy knob on the outside, so it already locks people out. However, there's a little knob that locks the inner handle in place and prevents jimmying. Since it doesn't automatically engage, it elicits frequent checking and rechecking.

I've considered some possible solutions:

Just remove the little knob to take away the uncertainty. That comes close, but I would prefer to be able to state that the door has been made more secure in case they ask for details.
Use an electronic deadbolt with timer functionality. This seems needlessly complex and expensive, and requires batteries.
Screw on a gate latch or similar. These are too flimsy and only meant for holding a gate closed, not to lock a door.

To clarify: making sure the door is closed is a non-problem due to the alarm. Door closers and spring hinges don't matter. The door also does not need to allow slamming it shut: it's fine if you have to push/press/hold/twist something to close it.

Is there such a thing as regular deadbolt but that engages automatically via a spring for example? So that you have to twist it back to close the door, but when the door is closed, it's 100% engaged?

Talk to a competent lock dealer and ask about a storeroom lock-set.

This is intended for secure office store-rooms, where there would never be a reason to leave the door unlocked.  From the inside, the handle always allows egress.  From the outside, the door cannot be opened without a key, period.  There is not push or twist button to make the door stay unlocked.


What should I look for when choosing faux tin ceiling tiles? My fiancee really likes the look of the faux tin ceilings. We found some in Home Depot, but they are 20$ for each 18" x 24" pane. For a moderate sized room, this will be a LOT of money to do one ceiling! (I'm assuming they're so expensive because they are "thermoplastic" rated to be resistant to up to 200 degrees or something like that; I guess this is because they are also for use as splashguards behind the stove.)

So I figured I'd look online for other possibilities, but there are a LOT of different brands and suppliers. What should I look for (and stay away from) when choosing faux tin ceiling tiles?

After searching for a while I came across TinCeilingXpress.com They offered a 5 panel sample package which allowed me to pick 5 tiles to see what I liked best. They are reasonably priced and I found they were quick at shipping and the products came well packaged. At ~$7.00 a tile I ended up buying these tiles:

I have been pleased with how easy they were to put up and how great it looks. My biggest gripe is how sharp the tiles are. I would highly recommend some gloves when installing.

Best of luck!


Is vintage rotary switch DPDT or DPST? I bought an Old porcelain round rotary switch which I thought was single pole i.e. every time I turned the knob on top, the light would go either ON or OFF.

There are 4 terminals. When I connect 2 terminals (opposite each other) the switch behaves like single-pole as described above.

But this switch has 4 terminal, so I connected a second circuit to the other 2 terminals (double pole?). The results are when I turn the knob, one circuit goes ON and the other goes OFF. And each time I turn the knob the circuit that was ON goes OFF and the circuit that was OFF goes ON. There is no position when both circuits are ON or OFF together.

So, is this DPDT or DPST? also, does anyone know what a switch like this would be used for?

This is a DPST switch, but with one of the contacts normally open, as you'd expect, and the other contact normally closed.  It's a bit of an oddity as a result -- it could be used as a 3-way switch, but that'd be silly compared to a normal (SPDT) switch.


How often do I need to drain Boiler Expansion Tank? I have an old style (without a bladder) expansion tank installed on my heating system. Recently i noticed that the water pressure fluctuates a lot in the system and wonder if that maybe because the expansion tank doesn't have enough air any more.

How often does one usually need to drain expansion tank?

What are other reasons for water pressure to fluctuate a lot during the day (almost hitting the limit when the safety valve is about to trigger).

I do most plumbing myself, but I hired a pro to install our new boiler. He recommended a yearly flush. The problem is the dirtier the water, the less efficient it is.


Removing bathroom faucet aerator When I turn this bathroom faucet on and off, the water flow is somewhat irregular so I tried looking at the aerator to see if it needs cleaning:

What kind of aerator is this and how do I remove it?

It doesn't look like any of the aerators that I can find by searching the web. I'm not sure what manufacturer made this faucet as it has no labels on it. I tried to put a screwdriver in there and turning but was not able to make it move. Do I need a tool specifically for this aerator?

Viewed from above:

I'm still not sure what kind of aerator this is but I was able to remove it.

After keeping the tip of the faucet soaked in a small bag of vinegar for a couple of hours, I was able to turn the aerator with a screwdriver but it didn't really feel like it was coming out. The plastic was also brittle and started breaking apart when I tried turning it, so eventually it came out when it broke apart. It looks like this is simply a plug since there appears to be no threading in the faucet.

I'm going to have to see if I can find some kind of replacement for this that will fit in an unthreaded faucet.


Leak between plastic elbow joint and copper pipe I replaced a plastic elbow joint which had a crack in it. One end of the elbow has a PVC pipe fitted into it, and the other end is copper, which connects to an outside tap.

I replaced the plastic elbow with the same model and size (Hep2O 15mm elbow) with a sleeve inserted between the copper pipe and elbow to ensure a snug connection.

However, there is water seeping out from the connection between the elbow and copper pipe (see picture). Is there anything I can do to get the copper pipe to fit better? The pipe itself doesn't appear to be deeply scratched or damaged.

The slow type of leak that you are experiencing can have been caused by one of the following:

If the end of the copper pipe had some surface scratches, denting or had been squashed out of round. It would be recommended to inspect the copper pipe surface to ensure that it is clean, round and scratch free. This is really important because the special O-ring seal in the fitting has to seal on the outer surface of the pipe.
If the copper pipe had not been fully inserted inside the fitting. The pipe must slide in fully past both the grab ring and the O-ring seal. I would expect that if this was the nature of your fault that the leak would be more than a weep.
If the fitting was installed where there may have been dust or other debris contamination that got into the fitting under the O-ring seal this can leave channel for water to weep through the seal. It may require disassembly of the joint to visually inspect for this cause.
If the O-ring seal was damaged in the installation it could lead to a weep leak. Common causes are due to sharp ends on the copper pipe that may have been caused by the pipe being cut via a hack saw or other similar means. Visual inspection would be needed to check for this but if damaged you may need to replace the fitting.

Some guidelines to be aware of.

The installation guide for these fittings recommends that these fittings not be used in areas where they are exposed to direct or continuous sunlight.
These fittings are susceptable to cracking in freeze conditions, particularly in the presence of a metal fitting joint.
If you are replacing this fitting due to a previous freeze condition the integrity of the copper pipe in terms of roundness or bulging is in question. This should be checked before reassembly.
Copper pipe needs to be cut with a wheel cutter and then a proper chamfer filed around the end to ensure proper use with the fitting.
If your old copper pipe had any age oxidation, mineral deposit due to previous leak, or surface abrasion it may be necessary to replace the pipe with new. Although it may be possible to suitably shine it up with extra fine steel wool.
You provided a link to an insert sleeve that was used inside the end of the copper pipe. The specification shown at the link indicate that this is a sleeve meant to be used with the plastic pipe. The manufacturer's installation guide indicated that special inserts would be available for copper pipe usage at a future date.  You should check to make sure that you get the copper pipe insert for use (if they are now available).
If you de-mount the fitting that is weeping and then try to re-use it then you should probably re-lubricate the O-ring seals with the proper spray compound. The manufacturer says to make sure to use their spray. They have big cautions to avoid any application or exposure to any oils or petroleum distillates.

You may want to access the manufacturer installation guide here. It contains a plethora of information regarding your pipe system. Almost all of the above information came from this guide.


Should I tape joints during or after an initial fill with setting-type compound? I am spreading 90min quick set, followed by green lid to finish off. I am using the quick set because I have to add multiple layers to help build up uneven seams.
My question is:

At what point should I add tape in these instances? I was thinking once I'm done layering and ready to add finishing coats, that is when I will add my tape? Or is it pointless given how many layers I'm adding of quickset to build up the uneven seam, or is it too late?

Pictures:

wall 1 in it's almost finished state of layering with quick set, if you look closely, you can still see a bit of a hump that I'm going to work out with another coat or 2 before green lid finishing

wall 2 showing beginning stages of layering and uneven seams I am working with

(sorry if the images are rotated --- I had corrected them on my end but they don't seem to carry over sometimes)
Yes, I could have taken the sheetrock down, reworked the studs to match the existing, or shimmed, but I'm beyond that now.

Tape goes in early. The tape is providing a paper face across the joint just as the paper face of the board does across the wallboard surface, and wants to be bonded as close to that surface as possible.  So, it's generally embedded in the first coat of mud. Mud, tape, mud over tape, build up to a smooth surface.
You are not spackling, you are mudding joints (applying joint compound, which is somewhat universally called mud.) Spackle is a different product for a different purpose.


Electric range's clock/timer went out and oven bake/broil will not operate After 2 years of normal operation, my Kenmore range's clock/timer shut off and oven elements don't heat. Surface burners work fine. I replaced the clock/timer board, but that was no help. I hired an electrician who told me my 30amp 240V range circuit should be 50amps, but told me nothing else. After 3 weeks, and exasperated, I bought a different range thinking it was a problem with the old range, but the new range has the same problem. Would this problem be caused by a range rated for 50amps that's operating on a 30amp circuit? If not, would there be another problem with the house wiring?

I had always wondered why a range outlet needed a Neutral wire. I could understand the need for 240V for the elements but why would we need the neutral to make the 120V loads. Apparently you need the 120V loads for the clock and for the 120V outlet that some stoves have. So it sounds like your 240V loads aren't having a problem but your 120V load (clock) is.
It would be interesting to know what readings you are getting on your receptacle of your plug. Thats definitely the first place to start.

Doing all the possible combinations you should get all these readings

Hot to hot: 240V
Hot to Neutral : 120V
Other Hot to neutral : 120V
Hot to ground: 120V
Other hot to ground: 120V
and Neutral to Ground: 0V

First check by sticking your meter in the front of the plug. Did you get those readings? If so its probably the prongs themselves inside the plug. Sometimes they get loose. So when you stick your range plug in, they just aren't getting good enough contact. A new range plug ($10 will help that). If you don't have a meter, and you don't wanna buy one, I would probably just change the plug (the electrician would have let you know if funny voltages were going on I am sure).
Second, if you did not get those readings check the back of your plug, where the wires connect. Are the screw tight? Did the readings come out properly or are they still wrong? IF they are wrong, Its back to the panel to make sure the neutral and both the hots are not loose in the panel.

Please be as sure as you can the circuit is off! Always make sure there is an indication its on (stove light or element on- than turn off the breaker checking that it turns off). I like the follow up by testing with a meter too, if you have one!


How to fill in exterior paint on plywood I have a wooden garage door that I'd like to paint.  It has been painted before, and the old paint had been chipping and flaking off.

I scraped off as much of the old paint that I could, and then I sanded with medium grit, and finally washed the area with a high-pressure hose and let it dry.  After I did this, there are areas where the wood is exposed, but around them is the original paint.

Then I painted my new coat, but the areas where the chips were scraped off are still very apparent.  The area around those chipped areas is much higher and it looks bad.

Should I put more coats on, or will that not smooth it out?  If not, should I try some kind of filler, or do I have to sand all the old paint off so that it will have a nice, smooth finish?

Additional coats will not help much. The key would have been to use a heat gun or chemical stripper to remove all the old paint, or sand the areas where bare wood and remaining paint meet until the surface irregularities were minimal.

You could try using a taping knife or wide putty knife and spread a layer of exterior spackle across the whole surface, then sand smooth. This is a bit of an art and if you aren't practiced it could end up being a lot of trouble/work. If the paint you already applied has a sheen it would not stick well anyway.

I think you know the answer to your question... it was your last mentioned option (except I think you should consider a heat gun).

Note: higher sheen/gloss paints will tend to exaggerate surface irregularities whereas low sheen can help hide.


Does an old photo frame need to be sanded before painting? I'm trying to paint an old gray photo frame to be black, for a new photograph.
Do I need to sand it before painting? The previous paint is in good condition and isn't peeling. Can I just paint over?

You should give the old paint a light sand to provide a “key” so the new paint will cover well. a fine grade sandpaper is all that is needed.
A light sand is just enough to see gentle scratch marks in the surface and not heavy enough to go through into the layer beneath.
If you don’t then when you put the new paint on it may not cover easily or when it dries it can chip or peel off.


Is this mold in my attic? Looks strange but it is only on one panel of wood. Wouldn't mold be spreading across the boards?

There are also a few boards of blue color. That can't be mold can it?

It looks to me like weathered OSB roofing in the second picture. The first picture is likely concrete/mortar. Construction companies will generally still use boards that were used for mixing or forming concrete/mortar. If it were mold, it probably wouldn't be isolated to those single boards and would be "creeping" over the roof trusses. So in short, no, it's not mold.


How can I recess an electrical outlet that protrudes from a glass mosaic tile wall? The electrical outlet in my newly installed glass mosaic tile backsplash protrudes. How can I recess it without damaging the glass tile? It is a wall switch that runs to my disposal.

Generally, it is possible to turn off the power, remove the switch, and then cut the nails that are holding the box in place (a recip saw can do this if you are careful). You can then drill holes through the box, push it so that it is flush, and then screw the box back to the stud.

This is fairly finicky work.


Remove a scratch from powder coated mailbox I have an ugly scratch on my mailbox. According to the manufacture, it has a powder coat. Here is a picture I am enclosing,

It is rather unsightly, what can I use to fix this?

I'd probably try a car-paint touch-up  product.


Old Work Box for Vanity Light? So I went to go change my bathroom vanity light today and discovered that it simply had the wiring coming through a hole in the wall and the previous vanity was literally just screwed into the wall with 2 screws.

Went to the local home improvement store and the employees guided me to some old work boxes that look like this:

So I get it installed, but it had me wondering...is this safe? I mean the vanity light isn't THAT heavy (I weighed it at around 3 lbs). I do not have a stud nearby (that I can see anyways) (nor would it matter because I would need to have access behind it anyways), and I really don't want to be tearing out an entire wall ideally)

Is this ok? I looked at various guides on changing or adding vanity lights and most seem to use these boxes (Which "seem" to be rated for 6 lb's, and only mention NOT to use them for ceilings).

Yes, an old work box is completely safe for what you're using it for. Just make sure the dogs are snug against the drywall.


What is this device on my shower head? I moved into a house in northern Virginia and came across this device on the shower head in the master bath. It's about 4 inches across, maybe 3 inches deep. It has a dial that can turn and displays the name of a month in a little window.

There aren't similar devices in the other bathrooms. It does not seem to be part of the shower head itself because of the different finishes.

The only thing that comes to my mind is a filter, probably activated charcoal, to remove residual chlorine. I doubt that it is necessary with the normal public water system. One sets the month when a new filter is installed as a reminder to change on some schedule.

Such a filter must be changed on some schedule because over time a biofilm will build up on the filter cartridge.

Edit

The original poster located this unit https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sprite-Showers-Universal-Shower-Filter-in-Chrome-SL2-CM-R/202386562


Stucco alternative for a small section of a wall? I'm trying to remove this exterior door, and replace it with a window:

The plan is to remove the door and frame, make top and bottom places from 2x3s, run 2x3s beams every 12" and make an opening for a window, adding extra 2x3s under the window to help with weight. The frame is about 30" by 72".

The only issue I'm concerned is stucco finishing at the outside. I read about it, and it seems to be quite time-consuming application requiring multiple steps, and three coats. Are there any alternatives to stucco masonry which would be suitable for the exterior and could provide necessary protection?

In particular, would something like that work?

Regular plywood attached to studs;
The moisture barrier (self-adhesive film or roofing felt) nailed;
Pressure-treated plywood on top of it;
Sprayed texture and exterior paint;

Would this be enough?

I did something similar with a stucco house I owned where I closed in a window opening to create a shower. I framed in the wall with and installed rough-sawn cedar plywood. The texture coordinated with the stucco nicely.

You don't want to install the plywood flush with the stucco. It'll look like a bad patch. You want it set back a bit like it's a design accent. Maybe 1-2".

Caulk the plywood to the stucco and then prime and paint. If it's not in a very wet location it'll last many years, after which you can overlay a new sheet if necessary.


Framing for gas fireplace insert in existing masonry fireplace What are the requirements for framing for a gas insert in an existing masonry fireplace? See the attached picture that shows the framed opening for the gas insert (circled in red). The insert will project about 5" outside of the existing firebox. My contractor insists that drywall all the way to the insert edge (the red box drawn on the picture) is ok. Is he correct or do we need to use non-combustible material like cement board?  BTW, he is going to insulate with Rockwool between the studs. We were also planning to just paint the wall around the insert for a clean, modern look. Is it possible to paint over cement board or other non-combustible material? Is any special surface prep required?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

It depends on the gas insert. Many gas inserts are listed for contact so if it is your contractor would be correct.
I don’t think the contractor would try and cheep out on this because a fire would be on his bond if he did not do it properly.


Massive reduction in air flow in furnance with air filters After I put in a 3M filter into my furnace the air flow was massively reduced.

So, does that mean the filter is wrong or something is wrong with my furnace.

First, does the 3m filter meet the furnace manufacturer specs?  Second, do a simple test. Observe the air flow with the 3M filter in, change it out to an old filter or no filter at all. Is there a big difference in air flow?  Are any of the returns covered with a carpet or other obstruction?  If the no filter test greatly improves flow and there are no obstructions, you may have the wrong filter. If if doesn't improve with no filter, then call a tech and start looking at the furnace blower.


Grounding a 3 switch metal device box Is it acceptable to ground outlets or switches through a metal device box (not pig tailing)?

The switches are connected to a long ground wire going to the light which are also screwed to the back of the box. The Ground form the lead (cut short) is screwed to the back of the box as well. My question is if the metal box is an acceptable method for connecting all the ground wires together completing the chain to the earth. The dark green dots in the diagram are screws fastening the ground wires to the box. (This is in Ontario Canada)

Everyone seems to be answering a question that was not asked by the OP.  He is asking if using the bonding screws without also pigtailing the bonding conductors will suffice for bonding.

Yes, the picture you have shown is an appropriate way to bond the devices.

Edit:  Additionally, there is no requirement to bond the switches in the CEC with a separate bonding conductor, unless doing so is stated in the manufacturer's instructions.  The screws used to mount the switch to the box suffice as the bond.


Problem with condensation on HVAC ducts inside house I'm having a pretty serious problem. There is an old sheet metal HVAC duct in my home that is getting condensation that is dripping onto the ceiling of a pantry. This duct is completely internal to the house, there is no exterior wall. The home was built in the mid 80's, modern style construction with lots of little half floors, so there is quite a bit of open space. There is a picture attached to this message.

I cut a hole into the ceiling and got rid of the damp drywall so I could access the duct. My hope was to wrap duct insulation around it, but it butts directly against an interal wall and header, making a wrap around nearly impossible.

Any suggestions on how I can get rid of this issue without breaking the bank or gutting the inside of the house?

In the image, the duct in the foreground runs horizontally, the other part is actually vertical up to the air handler, which is in a closet.

I just had this same issue it was resolved by setting my fan higher setting and changing the dirty filter


My subpanel has neutral and ground all mixed together? I read that this might be bad, but it appears both neutral and grounds are mixed on two different bus bars. It isn't just one wire that doesn't follow the pattern; there are several neutral wires on the predominantly ground bus bar. Should I rewire everything to separate ground from neutral?  The subpanel is in my garage -- it's largely for pool equipment. It's 60A and runs from the main house underground from the primary 200A service panel. This wouldn't be the first crazy thing I discovered from the previous homeowner (eg, shelves sitting on top of upside down square brackets).

Also, would this be a reason for a GFCI breaker to be tripping instantly in the subpanel?

Thanks!

Four Wire Feeder
If the panel is supplied by a four wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral, ground), then yes, the ground and neutral should be separate in the second panel.
If the panel is GFCI protected, and fed by a four wire feeder. Mixing the neutrals and grounds in the panel, will almost certainly cause the GFCI to trip. By mixing grounds and neutrals, you've essentially bonded the grounding and neutral bus bars together. This causes neutral current to be split between the grounding and neutral conductors of the feeder. Which means that the GFCI device will not see enough current on the neutral, and will open the circuit.
Three Wire Feeder
If this is an older installation, where the panel is fed by a three wire feeder (hot, hot, neutral), then the neutral bus bar should be bonded to the ground bus bar. In this case, mixing grounds and neutrals is poor aesthetics, but not a code violation.
If the panel is GFCI protected, and fed by a three wire feeder. Mixing grounds and neutrals should not trip the GFCI.


Do stair stringers need to be supported along their length? I want to open a space that's closed off under my stairs. There is framing under one stringer to support existing drywall, and possibly the stairs. (The other stringer in attached to a wall)

Safe to remove the framing and have the stairs supported by a stringer?

Stair stringers are normally designed to be supported at the top and bottom, with no further support needed.

I can't say for sure whether the framing that is there currently is to support the stringer, but I would expect that it's just there to support the drywall.

Read up on how to tell if a stud wall is loadbearing or not, if it's not loadbearing, then the current framing is just for drywall.


Replacing an octagonal ceiling fan power outlet How do I remove and replace the octagonal power box in the ceiling as one tip (for screwing the fan motor body into) is broken?  I assume I have to remove from within the attic as there are two screws coming from the attic into the power box that will not back out.

Ceiling fans need to have listed Boxes NEC 314.27.C. If they are large ones there may be more hardware in the attic that you cannot access from below.
Lighter ones many times are screwed to a 2”x4” or 2”x6” that is screwed or nailed to the ceiling trusses. You may have to remove this brace to pull the box.


How do I support a deck that spans a driveway? I am planning to reinforce my deck, as it is has a lot of sway, and was built with 12' 4x4s, and not 6x6s. The deck spans my driveway, which is the width of a two car garage, so a fairly decent span. Should I look at installing some type of braces for this span, or will posts on either side of the driveway be enough?

You can install bracing from 4' down on the post at a 45degree angle to the bottom of the header that is so panning the driveway. Use 1/2" x 6" lags to make the connection thru the new 4 x 4 bracing. Make sure that the brace doesn't interfere with getting a car in and out of the garage


where can I send a backyard soil sample for lead testing? Does anyone have links for a lead soil testing lab?  I live in Oakland California in an old house that certainly had/has lead paint. I'm concerned about possible lead levels in the backyard soil.  Would like to determine if some areas are safe for garden, kids to play, etc.  I'm assuming there must be some fairly inexpensive mail-in soil tests, but a quick web search didn't find anything.  Mostly saw big commercial labs that didn't seem oriented towards residential services, and some info on a now-defunct programs in Alameda County.

It seems that this document answers most of your questions:

Testing for Lead

In the document it states that home kits are available, but it has been shown that the effectiveness is not too reliable, and if you do detect lead, you will probably need to get soil professionally analysed.

otherwise you can find do-it yourself test kits on this link if needed.
DIY Test kit

Personally, I would inspect the soil for any traces of paint chips and if you find any, then get lab tests. however a sensible course of action would be to order in some top-soil for your garden, that way, your garden will look nice in a few weeks and you will have peace of mind in terms of contaminants.


Can I pull CAT6 cable via old RJ11 panels? I have spotted multiple RJ11 ports in the home I am moving into soon. They are spread across the first and second floors of the house. Is it possible to use that existing wiring to pull through CAT6 cable to use for an RJ45 port and a patch panel where the phone line originally terminated? If so, are there any dangers? Is there something I should be actively looking for? This is an older home (early 1900's).

There are two problems you are likely to run into.

Pulling new wiring with existing is hit and miss, sometimes you can do it but sometimes wires are clipped/stapled in places you can't access, sometimes the cable routes have too many turns or obstructions to pull and sometimes the wires are just directly buried in plaster.

Old phone wiring was often daisy chained whereas Ethernet wiring needs an individual run from each point to the network switch.

The bottom line is you may be able to reduce the damage to decor by pulling wiring in some places using the existing wiring but it is very likely you will end up having to do some damage in the process of getting the new wiring in.
Pulling through the wall between an outlet and a space under the floor or above the ceiling may or may not be possible, pulling through a run between multiple rooms without any intermediate pull points is highly unlikely to be possible.


Cabinet Latch like a Door Knob I am trying to build a custom cabinet with a trash drawer that is dog proof.   I don't like the two-handed operation of the baby latches, so I was thinking something like a door knob.   I would want it to work just like a door knob except no knob on the inside and a thinner latching mechanism so I don't have to build my cabinet door 1.5" thick.
Since I am building it myself, I could just build out the frame where the latch is going to be to 1.5" and then modify the knob hardware to eliminate the inside knob.
Open to other suggestions.

Why not use a surface-mounted cabinet twist latch:
image courtesy of houseofantiquehardware.com
Or, if your pup likes to open latches by biting, use a recessed slam latch:
image courtesy of actronmfginc.com
also called paddle-handle push-to-close latch, to protect her or his teeth?
Of course, if the bin is large enough to trap a person, you do need an inside handle!


External sewage pipe damaged I recently had some tree service done to my yard by a contractor, which required them to drive heavy machinery through the lawn. It was pointed out to me that they drove over and damaged an external "vent" pipe (that's the best I can describe it) that was sticking out of the ground. They claimed they would be back to fix it, but I'm not holding my breath that they'll return.

It was connecting down into the ground, but now it's cracked and can be completely removed. When removed, I can see additional sewage pipe work coming from my house and going down into the stinky abyss.

So my questions are:

What is this thing?
Obviously I want to get this fixed ASAP, but how urgently does this need to be fixed? Like if I don't do something could I end up with a diarrhea river flowing through my yard or in my house? I can definitely smell raw sewage when I stick my face down into the hole
If the contractors never return, is this something that can easily be fixed by 1 person, DIY style, or will another contractor be needed (and obviously filing an insurance claim).

This looks like a sewer "cleanout". This would connect about 4 ft below ground to your sewer line from your house to the city sewer. If you are lucky it is only the top that is damaged, but it could be the thrust damaged it at the bottom. In the latter case you will have a more involved repair.
You could carefully dig out around it, remove the damaged part and look in using a flashlight. Probably you should get a plumber to send TV camera down and get a good look.


How would you create a high gloss finish on furniture? From a smooth lacquered finish like this:

To a high gloss like this:

How would I get create a finish like the picture above when starting with a smooth lacquer finished piece of furniture (i.e. IKEA Malm wooden furniture)? I know it is a multiple step process but I don't know what the best approach is. What tools/products would you need?

I'm a beginner to diy home improvement so any small tips/steps would be extremely helpful!

If your existing finish truly is lacquer, all you would need to do is apply additional coat(s) of high gloss clear lacquer.

Always use the very best brush you can afford, or spray it. Lay the material flat, for best results. If you have no experience with this type of finish or with the application techniques mentioned, you should practice practice practice on some sample pieces first (and read a book about working with lacquer, maybe).


Garage wiring safety We have been given an orange clad 10-3 wire ( like for a dryer ) and were told it is fine to run it from the house panel to the garage panel for a few plugs , however when we looked at the Home Depot the 10-3 wire for that purpose is a black clad 10-3 ....are we safe to use the orange clad 10-3 wire ? ( it will be in conduit )

Edit: Now you've added information.  You are running both a saw and a dust collector.   You want to route the wires outside, even though the garage is attached.

I don't understand why people withhold important information like "I'm running several big tools at once".  That's a far cry from what you said, which is "a few plugs". Garbage in, garbage out: if the info you give us is cheese, our advice will be cheese as well.  That's why you got a different answer at Home Depot: you gave different info.

As you discovered, you cannot run a saw and a dust collector off one circuit.  I don't know how they can sell these things without a disclaimer mentioning that.  There's a hard limit of 4800W (20A) on circuits which serve common household 120V outlets, and that is simply not sufficient to run a saw and dust collector together.

An even bigger sin is when people also put lights on the same circuit; get digging into a knot, trip the breaker and now they're in the pitch black with their fingers 3" from a spinning blade.

So I recommend two new circuits.  You can do that with the orange wire you have, IF you route the wire so it's entirely interior to the building, and get some help setting up a MWBC.  I won't explain further because that requires way more sense of precision than you are displaying here.  Get an electrician but at least you can route the wire.

Exterior routing

Given the complexity of selecting and protecting cable, and weather-sealing wall penetrations so your walls don't rot out, my best advice is don't.

Interior routing

The orange cable is fine.  You're only allowed to use a 15A or 20A circuit breaker on circuits with common household outlets.  But you're allowed to use oversized wire if you want, which is what you'd be doing here.

You may need some short 6" sections of 12 AWG wire to "pigtail", as 10 AWG wire may not fit on the screw terminals of common receptacles.  (Do not use "backstabs".)

You have 4 wires in the bundle and only need 3.  Cap off the fourth wire, don't hack it off.  It could later be used for a MWBC or even a sub-panel.

If you're wondering about the orange, there is not any official standard as to the color of the outer sheath.  Informally, many manufacturers have agreed to use white=14 AWG, yellow=12 AWG, orange=10 AWG. A few manufacturers use white for all sizes. All these are for interior use only.  If you're going anywhere wet, outdoors or underground, you need different cable listed for that.

It is illegal to use cable if the outer sheath is not marked. The interior wires don't need to be marked.  Also, if by chance it is aluminum, that is illegal for new work (and dangerous for old work) unless -- well, ask here for advice.


Basement Bathroom Venting Help Our basement has been roughed in for a bathroom. My layout has a three floor PVC pipes coming out of the ground. The left most pipe has a tipped over bucket cemented onto the floor. There is a middle pipe at 2.5 inches and a 1.5 inch all the way to the right.

I'm GUESSING the toilet is the left most, not sure what is under the bucket, but maybe preventing the smell? There is a a plastic capped PVC pip coming down from the ceiling labeled 'BATH VENT' between the middle and right most PVC pipe.

If I would like a shower/toilet/sink in this space, does only the sink need to be attached to that overhead vent, or do all 3?

I'm going to venture a guess here (at least until photos come). 2.5" isn't a pipe size so I'm going to go out on a limb and call it 3 inch that will be for your toilet. Regarding the bucket I'm going to guess that only a bottom half of the bucket is showing which means that there is a space in there to put a trap for a shower or tub. If the previous statements are correct then the one and a half inch pipe is really a 2"  which is a wet vent for your sink.

In the floor it would look somewhat like thiswww.doityourself.com


Is there such a thing as hardwired/powered keyless door locks? I've seen an explosion on the market of keyless door locks, keyless dead bolts, and so on. Schlage sells a bunch. From the looks of it, most of them are powered either by a 9V battery or some number of AA batteries. Since there's always an actual key slot, you can rest assured that you can still get in even if the battery dies. But what I'm wondering is if there are any keyless locks that don't require a battery? I'm not sure if such a unit exists in the first place. For something like that to even be possible, you'd likely have to run some power wires through the door frame somehow. I am not sure if that is even possible to do, or if any such unit exists. Are they all battery-powered, or is it possible to have a hardwired keyless lock?

The word you're looking for is "Electric strike".

In this system, the door latch is not powered or operated at all.  The door striker plate is.   In essence the door frame lets go of the door.

Obviously, since the strike is in the door frame, it's not moving, and running power to it is trivial.


How can I identify a neutral wire? I'm trying to install a WeMo light switch in the place of an existing switch. I'm unsure which wire is neutral, or if I have one at all. Below is a photo of where I'm at currently. There are two switches in this one box, one of which is a fan and the other is a light. Both have only two wires coming out of them currently. There is a cap over a bundle of wires visible in the photo, but one of each of the wires from the switches is tied into this bundle. Is this the neutral wire or should I be looking for something else?

The tone of your post scares me a little. Meaning if you are working in this box and cannot even identify the neutral, and are asking if one of the blacks is it, you should really get some experience or read up on basic home wiring before you start pulling things apart.

Bottom line is, the bundle of spliced whites in the bak of the box is your neutral.


Paralleling 8-gauge wires in a 220 volt 66 amp circuit I hooked up a tankless heater, which draws 66 amps.   (it is on a 70 amp breaker). The installation guide says to use 6 gauge wire.

I had a 4-wire circuit of 8 gauge that runs right past the room where heater will be (it went to a range; I have a gas range now).  So I took the white and red wires together (paralleled), and put them on one leg.  I put the ground wire (10 gauge) and the red wire (8 gauge) together, and put them on the other leg.

Am I correct that this will draw 66 amps?  How will it split the current?  Will each wire draw 33 amps or will the bigger 8 gauge wire (paralleled with the 10 gauge ground) draw more that the 10 gauge?  Either way, I should be OK, correct?

It works fine; I grounded it through the old electric water heater circuit in the room, which had 10 gauge ground (like the 6 gauge cable they said to use.)

I heat S-16 requires a 70 amp breaker (it has internal sub breakers) this unit requires 240v at 66.6 amps. This requires a 240v breaker with L1, L2, neutral, and ground to properly operate using #6 copper according to the rep I talked to. Connecting any other way will not work at the rated 16Kw. (888)818-4328


Why would you hook up the heat output of a wood stove to the cold air return on an electric forced-air furnace? I am installing a new wood add-on stove in the basement and want to hook it in to my forced air furnace duct work to help move the air in the house. I have heard it can be done, but I am confused as to how or where to hook up the hot air pipe. Some say to hook it into the cold air return, but what about CO2 build up? Others say you can hook in to the output side and run it through the furnace, but I was told that could ruin the forced air furnace, and that I would have to put dampers in to by-pass the electric furnace altogether.

So I am confused. Can some one help?

I will assume this wood stove has a proper air jacket from which heated air can be drawn? The possibility of dangerous gases infiltrating into this jacket is a valid concern and entirely dependent on the integrity of the firebox. This can only be done by careful inspection and possibly some sort of pressure test. In theory, this can be just as safe as any other fuel burning furnace.

The purpose of piping the stove's heated output air to the furnace return air is that the furnace is then fed pre-heated air. This minimizes the amount of energy the furnace must use to raise it to the proper distribution temperature. It doesn't make sense to apply the wood heated air to the furnace circulating air unless the furnace's output temperature was deliberately reduced, relying on the wood heat to make up the difference. This would be very difficult to properly regulate since thermostatic control of a wood burning appliance is marginal at best unless you are burning wood pellets.

Whether the pre-heated air from the wood stove is bad for the furnace would depend on just how hot this air is. This is highly variable depending on air flow, fuel wood type and loading, as well as combustion air or damper volume. With adequate air jacket flow and typical wood stove firing practice, I don't see this being a problem for the furnace. But there's a lot of variables. It would be easy to misfire the stove and reach damaging temperatures.

Some sort of damper bypass system would be ideal, but the controls needed would be complicated to ensure adequate heat was delivered regardless of the stove's firing rate. Even then, it will require careful monitoring. It'll always be possible to over fire the stove during low heat demand conditions, wasting fuel.


My spray bottle nozzle seems busted, what should I look for? I have a mostly-plastic spray bottle that I use to spray water. I used to be able to set it to spray in a wide cone or a narrow stream, but now it only wants to spray in a narrow stream. Any ideas of how I should try to diagnose and fix this?
The inlet at the bottom of the tube feeding into the nozzle seems fine. At various points in time I have used this to spray alcohol, vinegar/water mixture, bleach/water mixture, and hydrogen peroxide/water mixture. Sometimes I have stored it full for a long time.
Update: There was a spring inside the nozzle with a plastic piece at the end; it looks like this got knocked askew. I messed it up more while trying to fix it and the spray profile got a little worse, so maybe the problem was caused by an issue with this piece. Bonus question: Does anyone know where I could get a replacement for these components?
Thanks!

I purchase quite a few spray nozzles a year for work. Water, windex, citrus cleaners and even cutting oil are most of my uses I find chemical resistant rated spray nozzles work best or the spring and ball start rusting and fail quickly. It sounds like your nozzle has some solids blocking it taking it off a squirt or 2 then rinse the cap may fix it , with all the different solutions you have used it must be a chemical resistant type to last that long I get them online for between 1-2$ most of the time they disappear. Chemically resistant ones do tend to last the longest.


Difference between geothermal and regular hydronic zone valves Taco makes two variants of zone valves - one type for general hydronic use, and another type marketed especially for geothermal use.

What is the difference in valves that particularly suits them for one application or the other?

All the manufacturer's literature I can find (so far) basically reads identically for both products. But the geothermal variants are more expensive. Having looked at samples myself, I don't see any superficially obvious differences. The actual valve portions appear to be potentially identical; but there could be some differences in the actuators ether mechanically or electronically which would not be obvious.

(Perhaps other manufacturers have a similar offering, I just happen to be a little familiar with Taco's).

Assuming there are substantive differences, in a pinch could one be used in the "wrong" application successfully? (e.g., using a regular hydronic in a geothermal system, or vice-versa).

Note - both samples I've seen are normally closed, so apparently the answer is not that one is normally open.

Example:

There may be other differences as well but the geothermal valve is designed for a higher head pressure.  The standard hydronic system is built around reduced pressure. The geothermal valve is expected to deal with standard water pumping and or city pressure.