Removing bulb causes a different fixture to go out I have ceiling fixtures, let's call them A and B. Normally, both fixtures are always on (lit) -- no switch controls them.

When I remove the bulb from A, fixture B goes out.

Here's how it looks inside the junction box that feeds both fixtures:

Fixture A is at the top of the box. Fixture B is the one on the bottom (I think, not 100% sure about that.)

As you can see, the white wire from Fixture A is connected to the other white wires in the junction box. That makes sense.

But, the black wire from Fixture A is jumpered onto a white wire, that's then connected to the white wire on Fixture B.

What's going on here?

I plan to put motion-detector bulbs in both fixtures, so I want them both hot all the time.

Can I just remove that white jumper wire and connect the black wire to the other black wires?

I have confirmed that there's nothing wired downstream from the Fixture A box - the wires terminate there.

It's difficult to tell for sure, as I'm not sure where all the wires in the box go. But it looks like the lights are run in series, rather than in parallel as they should be.

To fix it.

Turn off the power and verify that it's off.
Connect all the black wires together in one twist-on wire connector.
Connect all the white wire together in the other twist-on wire connector.

This image shows how electricity moves through the circuit.

Notice that the neutral wire "coming back from" light B connects to the hot wire "going to" light A. Then the neutral "coming back from" A, connects the the other circuit neutrals.

The only way that this wiring would make sense, is if B was a switch controlling A.

removing the bulb from either A or B interrupts the circuit, and causes both light to go out.


How can I keep from breaking my water hammer arrestor My dishwasher is a serious piece of equipment.
It makes water hammers like crazy.
So I put one of these things inline to the supply:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Quiet-Pipes-Washing-Machine-Water-Hammer-Arrester-38600/100069256

Everything goes quiet for 2-3 days (2-3 runs of the dishwasher) and then it starts again.
I assume it's breaking.
I've got through 3 of these things, different brands (sioux chief also fails), they keep breaking.

Is there a more meaty version of this device or a different way to solve the problem?

Seeing some pictures of the plumbing overall could jog additional suggestions from others, but there are a number of things you can do to eliminate the hammer. Using the product you are buying is one of those things. I would NOT expect that it is breaking, but the fact that you state its good for a few days then no longer works and you replace it then it happens again a few days later gives me a few thoughts first off of what you should check.

Make sure there aren't any leaks, and that all connections are tight. Also make sure all plumbing is properly secured. This includes the hose/tubing for the dishwasher itself. In fact, ensure the arrestor you are installing is also secured and not moving around. Leaving these this laying on the floor coiled up allowing it to move around is just going to strengthen the water hammer. Also, the pipes involved should be properly secured with mounts. Once you have secured all plumbing properly, AND ensured the arrestor is installed properly and oriented properly-securely, there are additional things you can do.

Does your property have a water column tube going vertical anywhere? You may not even see it, but it may exist. If it does not, you can create one easily. Quick google shows what I'm talking about:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/plumbing/plumbing-repair/stop-banging-water-pipes/view-all/

Now, you may have one of these already. Turn off main water as it enters the home, and open the farthest, highest faucet in the home, then open the lowest/closest. Let the water drain from the plumbing. You can partially drain the hotwater tank to get the hot side of things done. You are just getting air back into any vertical columns put there by your plumber. If none exist, you can add them yourself, e.g., see the link above.

With that out of the way, you might actually choose to reduce your water pressure. Mind you, we all love water pressure, MORE IS BETTER right? Not always. In your case, you might want to lower it. More can be bad, and can shorten valve life for a number of applications, but 60 is alright. Try lowering it to 55, or 50. Generally keep it above 40, 45,.... and obviously to your liking in your home. But with two bathrooms, and reasonable length runs, you dont really need 60. Trial and error, give it a shot. Obviously dont increase it.

Lastly, and you can try this as a cheat method for what I just described, install a valve or partially close a valve upstream that feeds the dishwasher specifically. Again, this is trial and error, but limiting the flow just a tiny bit can have an impact.

Also, I mentioned the size of pipes because if you have some mineral buildup on any valves or pipe fittings, or pipes reduce in size and then go larger again, this can aggravate a water hammer issue if your diswasher solenoid is on-off on-off rapidly, because the water will move "abruptly". So it could be handy to ensure good flow too *(i.e., dont over restrict it somewhere)... this is less likely the issue.

If you question the quality of the mechanical arrestor you've purchased *(repeatedly), try a different one on for size and see. But sincerely, I'd work more on securing the pipes, and install a man made arrestor like pictured above.


How can I hang a shelf with no visible fasteners? I just built a shelf for a bedroom based on instructions found at Happy at Home. Problem is: the blog doesn't explain how to hang it!

Can someone help me figure out a clean way to hang this shelf that doesn't involve screws on the exterior of the shelf?

You could use a keyhole router bit to cut keyhole slots in the back to hang it.

Another option would be to use a french cleat. Either buy a metal one that could attach to the back of the shelf or integrate one into the wood back.  Here is a discussion of french cleat techniques.


What is “naturally durable” wood in reference to Code required “naturally durable wood or preservative-treated wood in contact with concrete? It’s common practice and Code required to have preservative-treated wood in contact with masonry or concrete.

However, after double checking the Code, (ICC 2304.11.1,) I See it actually says, “naturally durable wood or preservative-treated wood”.

What species is “naturally durable wood” in reference to this application? I’m sure it’s NOT cedar or redwood, which is what we use for exterior decks, siding, etc. where I live.

Here is a study done in 1995 that looks like the heartwood of Douglass Fir, and the heartwood of redwood hold up the best for outdoor exposure. It may not give an indication of what you are looking for with regards to contact to concrete, but it at least gives insight.

In my years in the trade and having a curiosity about how houses were built, how they last, or fail in areas always has intrigued me. I have noticed a great number of homes over time that have D. Fir plates, directly on concrete AT ground level, in a 60+ year old home and the wood is still viable.

I would imagine that there will be this "list" that the gov't relies on to determine the "naturally durable" wood specie somewhere.....

I read/heard that poplar, when super heated becomes surprisingly rot resistant...

None of this may not directly answer the question, but I would like to mention black locust has been used for fence posts that would last for decades. I am sure there is no milled lumber of black locust available, but it sure would make the list.


Uneven/big gap between door and stop trim weatherstip will not seal When closed, the gap between the outside face of my garage entry door and the stop trim built into the door jamb/frame is very uneven. The door opens into the house. On the hinge side and the top, it's a pretty even one quarter inch, but on the latch side, the gap varies from about 5/16" at the top to 9/16" at the bottom. The gap is so large I cannot find weatherstripping "tall enough" to seal.

Note that I am not talking about the gap between the sides of the door and the frame. This problem refers to the gap between the garage side face of the door and the stop trim. The gap around the edges of the door is uneven, but the door closes and latches without issue.

5/16" gap at top of door

9/16" gap at bottom of door

Is prying off the door stop trim and re-setting it with an even gap the solution? Or is there some clever way to adjust how the door is sitting in the frame?

Yes typically you set the stop to the door. Before you do though check that the door is resting even with the outside of the jamb. If it's not, insert some thin cardboard shims behind the hinges in such a way that it "twists" how the door hangs and/or adjust the strike plate to correct that issue before resetting the stop. Remember to leave enough room for your weather strip. Cheers!


How to hang wood letters I have cut out a word made of 1/2" poplar and would like to hang it in the wall. I originally thought of using my (non plunge) router with a keyhole bit to cut two keyholes, but I'm afraid that the wood would be too thin. Is there any way to do this nice other than picture hangers?

Edit:
I don't want to glue it to the wall because that would cause too much damage to the wall. My current hair brain idea is to drill a hole with a forstner bit and then maybe use a t router bit to cut a slot for the keyhole

Since this is one piece of wood  screw two of these eyes to the back in strategic locations. Hang it on picture frame hooks


Should I use non-shrink grout to help with support posts? I am installing a new, approx 16' support beam in my house, to be held up initially by adjustable jacks, and permanently by 4 4" wooden posts.  Some time ago I saw on one of the construction shows an ingenious method of sizing and setting posts, to wit:

Step 1: Get the beam where you want it with the adjustable jacks
Step 2: Dig several holes where you want the footings be
Step 3: install the 4" posts to the beam (using hangers), letting it hang in the air above the holes
Step 4: Pour concrete in holes, leaving a 1" gap between the concrete and the posts
Step 5: Wait for concrete to cure
Step 6: Pour non shrink grout between concrete and 4" wooden post - letting the grout lap over the post by about 1/4" or so
Step 7: Wait for grout to cure
Step 8: Remove adjustable posts - thereby transferring all load to 4" wooden posts

This seems like an excellent way of doing it - the posts are the right height automatically, there is much less need for measuring and the posts can be adjusted before there is any load upon them.

However, I have never heard of anyone else doing this - nor using non-shrink grout in structural applications.

My questions:

Is is a good idea to do the 4" posts and adjustable posts at separate times?
Is non-shrink grout useful for structural applications?

I just finished the project - the grout turned out be a great solution - I intend to do it again for the other side of the house.  Precision work in that part of the crawlspace was quite difficult, and simple letting the grout find it's own level made things much, much easier.


Do I need more space between my AC unit and bed headboard? I'm unsure whether I can place an AC unit in my bedroom window because the headboard comes up right against the window. There would only be about 5 inches of space between the AC unit and the headboard. Would that be a problem?

window unit ac vents are places on top so not a problem. first problem will be to make sure your curtains do not block the air intake in front of the window unit. so need to have good air flow to the intake or it will freeze the unit. next problem is that the unit sits inside your window so this will stick out from flush of your window about 5 inches. from your window to your wall is 2 inches. the window unit will stick out pass your wall quite a bit. go to local store and look at one. you will see where the window will sit on the unit and you will be able to go from there


What type of water filter cartridge is right for drinking water in NYC I moved to a new house and found a 10" big blue water filter installed under the kitchen sink, of the type that would normally be whole-house. The water tastes off and I am assuming that the cartridge needs replacing, since it looks pretty filthy and I am fairly sure it has not been changed in several years.

I found these instructions for changing the cartridge. However, there seem to be a hundred types of replacement cartridges. I tried to look at various DIY and plumbing sites, but I still have no idea what type of cartridge is appropriate for filtering New York City tap water, or even whether this is a bad idea and I should replace the whole thing with a standard under-sink filter. Pleated? String? How many microns? Etc. It's all Greek to me, so any advice is greatly appreciated.

...you have some of the best tap water in the country. Either remove it completely, or possibly use a carbon filter cartridge if there's enough chlorine to bother you. If the filter looks off, the filter housing probably needs a good cleaning/sanitizing.

Which one (or how many) of the bottled water companies is just bottled NYC tap water?


Can I connect an electronic air cleaner to the 24v terminals of my furnace? I have a Goodman GKS90904CX furnace and looking to install an Electro Breeze Air Cleaner.  The air cleaner needs an R and C 24v terminal for power or a power outlet with the supplied transformer.  I would prefer to power it from the Furnace directly so I don't have to run an extension cord from the power outlet which is being used by the Sump Pump.

Can I connect the R and C wires from the Electronic Air Cleaner to the same R & C terminals on the Furnace (picture below) that is being used by the Thermostat and AC unit?  I'm not sure if fancier furnaces have dedicated 24v terminals for Electronic air cleaners or if the same terminals can be used.

Generally, yes, R and C are the 24 volt and common terminals of the transformer.

However, you have to make sure you do not draw more current than the transformer can handle. These things are usually rated in volt-amps. If your furnace, air handler and air conditioning compressor are marked with their ratings, you can tell how much power you can spare. Don't exceed 80% of the rated capacity of your transformer.

As an alternative, you can mount the transformer that came with your air cleaner in/on your air handler. Locate the existing transformer and you can wire the new one in to the same 120 volt lines.


Ok to conceal electrical junction box under cabinet behind removable toe-kick There is a 5 or 6 inch gap between the floor and the bottom of my kitchen cabinets. I have ikea cabinets so the toe kick is connected to the cabinet legs by plastic clips. It comes off just by pulling with a small amount of effort. Would putting an electrical junction box in this area be a violation of electrical code? If I put it there I would mark in the cabinet above it that there is a junction box below so that it would be easy to identify and find.

The definition of readily accessible in the National Electrical Code.

  Accessible, Readily (Readily Accessible). Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to actions such as to use tools, to climb over or remove obstacles, or to resort to portable ladders, and so forth

Junction boxes above drop ceilings are considered Accessible but if you have to remove part of the building (such as a piece of drywall) then it is NOT  accessible. I had a house where the panel was behind some paneling that was hinged. This is usually acceptable to the Inspector.

Bottom line is if you can easily access it, and if you leave information as to where to find it, it should fit the definition if Accessible.


Ideas to hang five polycarbonate squares to ceiling I have five plastic (polycarbonate) squares that I need to hang / attach them to the ceiling (concrete). They can touch the ceiling, or have little (maximum 2 inches) gap between the square and the ceiling.

They weight around 1.5 lbs / 600 grams each, and are 8x8x1.4 inches / 200x200x35 mm.

Not only they are polycarbonate, but they are smooth, so adhesives don't stick to it easily. Also, there is not a single hole that I could use as a support.

Picture a smooth polycarbonate square.

They are going to be hang / attached to the ceiling, so there is gravity pulling them downwards too.

Ideally, attach in a way that it is not very hard to remove and with no to little damage to the squares and ceiling.
I tried these foam adhesives, they fell after a few days unfortunately, mainly because they did not adhere to smooth polycarbonate.

Ideas of what I can do? I could attach something (a wire? piece of metal?) to the squares using silicone, and go from there. Has to be something aesthetically acceptable.

Any ideas appreciated!

Neodymium, Rare earth magnets.

Very strong, one on each corner will be enough to hold 1.5 lbs.

Use the silicone that you have tested on the panels to attach a magnet to each corner of the panels and let cure for a day. Take the other magnets for the ceiling and turn them so they stick or attract the magnets on the panels and place them on the magnets already adhered to the panels so that they're holding together (one side attracts and one side repels).

Now you can use a clear instant-grip adhesive like loctite  to attach the magnets to the ceiling.

While the ceiling magnets are being held onto the panel magnets, place a little dab of adhesive on each magnet and then place the panel in position on the ceiling.

You may need to take a long strip of tape and tape the panel up to the ceiling until the adhesive sets.

When it's time to remove them, a putty knife or painters scraper should pop the magnets off.


Does the NEC allow splices inside a load center (main circuit breaker panel)? I have built a detached garage which will have a 125A subpanel. (125A panel because it will double as a work shop with A/C and heat and power equipment). Power will brought in from the house load meter panel which only has 12 spaces which are all taken. In fact, several spaces are occupied by tandem breakers to carrying 220V circuits requiring the second hot leg to be carried by another tandem breaker with a space in between in order to pick up the other side of the bus. (I think this is illegal or should be. This is the way the panel was wired when we purchased it).

With the second panel installed adjacent to the meter base, I plan to get rid of all tandem breakers (which I do not like anyway) and move several breakers to the new panel which has 24 spaces, freeing up spaces in the meter base panel where I will install the 125A breaker to power the subpanel in my detached garage.

Moving these circuits to the new panel will require splicing wires in order to reach the new panel breakers. My question is: Does NEC code allow for splices inside the circuit breaker panel? Are there special type splices needed for this situation or are wire nuts allowed? All splices will be done correctly and taped. A master electrician and electrical engineer have said it is legal but a NEC reference, page and paragraph, would be helpful incase my inspector objects.

Thanks in advance for your response.  Don

It is legal to splice inside the service panel. I regularly have to do this when replacing the existing panel, it is quite common. Another way is to add a gutter and use that if the location of the panel is moved, code requires the splices to be in an approved or listed box that is accessible the panel is appropriate but sometimes with older panels there is not enough room to do it in a neat and workmanship manner so I add a gutter.


Light Fixture screw won't hold glass cover I had to change some lights on a living room light fixture a few weeks ago and got the cover off with no issue and changed the bulbs. The issue occurred when I tried to put the cover back on, the central thread came off somehow and I can't get it to screw back in.

I dug around in it today (after turning the breaker off), taking off both screws either side of the central hole but was unable to remove the fixture entirely. I'm assuming the nut that holds the central screw is just loose somewhere up there, but I'm not sure since I wasn't the person who originally installed the fixture.

What steps am I looking at to get this fixed?

Thanks!

You're right: there's almost certainly a nut floating up there on top of the fixture. The only way you're going to get it is to pull the fixture down a bit:

Note the two Phillips-head screws near the center, each in the narrow end of a keyhole slot. Loosen each of the screws about 1/2". When you're loosening the second one, the fixture will get wobbly
Turn the fixture about 15° clockwise, so that the larger end of the keyhole slots drop off of the screws and you can lower the fixture
Without straining the wires, and being careful where you put your hands, find the AWOL nut that's sliding around the top of the fixture.
Use the nut to re-fasten the central post to the fixture. Tighten it well! (Bonus points for putting thread-lock on it.)
Put the fixture back up onto the Phillips-head screws, rotate it counter-clockwise to lock it in place, and then tighten the screws
Now you can mount the cover back onto the post.


Goodman Furnace igniter glows but doesn't ignite Specs: Goodman Model GDS80703, over 10 years old, Control board replaced 2 years ago

2 months ago, it just started glowing and not igniting, and after doing some basic troubleshooting (Reboot, clean filters, reset thermostat) the problem wasn't solved

As there was sufficient voltage to the gas valve, I was advised by a tech over the phone to replace the gas valve, and did so, It fired up about three times, and each time it didn't reach the temperature desired

Now, we're back at square one, and so we come to you, the people of the internet, for help.

If you follow the (3) wires from gas valve, two end up on the control board and one goes to a limit switch on the blower. This limit switch was burnt out on my furnace. It's a relatively inexpensive part to replace. Good luck.


Thawing partially accessible frozen pipes with a hairdryer I am a renter with water pipes that are inaccessible at some points, and which may freeze in the winter. I am doing my best to prevent this, including heating my apartment, trickling my faucets, and potentially doing some more insulation or electric heating.
If my pipes freeze and I try to thaw them out by using hairdryer or other similar heat source to apply heat to a single point along the pipe, can you give me any rules of thumb for how long of an ice block I could reasonably expect to melt? This probably varies based on various factors (like maybe the pipe material/dimensions, the temperature, the heat source, etc), and I would be interested in a range of conditions.
For specificity, you can imagine that the pipes are copper, the temperature drops to 10 deg F (-12 deg C) area and remains there for 12 hours after the freeze, and I use an 1800-watt hairdryer.

Your best bet is to prevent the pipe from freezing in the first place. Once the pipes are frozen, a hair dryer will heat up a copper pipe slightly and that heat will travel down the pipe melting the outside of the ice column and breaking it free and it will travel down the pipe. To melt it completely would take hours. A propane torch would do it much faster but they could be a fire hazard waving it around and then there's a chance of ruining a solder joint.
There are pipe heaters especially designed for preventing pipe from freezing. You wrap them around a pipe, plug them into a wall outlet and set the thermostat to the desired temp. They come in different lengths and operate on about 5 watts per foot.  See the picture below.

This one is from LingRan Industries, which I have no interest in.


How can I reduce how much a flat roof heats my house? My flat roof is insulated with wool, but still it's heating up my room considerably. The situation is much better in the rest of the house.

Any ideas how to do a quick fix?

The roof is currently blackish so I think putting something white on that would help. But what ? (I don't want to paint it though)

They make roof "paint" designed for your problem. Will it help, yes, how much depends on a great deal of factors.

Roof coating reflects sun's rays to help lower cooling costs
Roof coating contains insulating ceramic beads
Urethane for ultimate
durability

Product link


Paint on tubs please help I'm a housekeeper and we are remodeling our entire hotel. The painters have gotten paint on the tubs. I can get the paint off the walls of the tub no problem. What can I use to get the paint off the floor of the tub. I can't scrape it off because the tub is textured (to prevent slipping)

if its latex paint, it will come off with a paint remover like goo be gone or goof off, if its oil paint, you can use brake fluid.  either approach will mean letting the liquid sit on the paint for a few hours or overnight.

however, as both will not damage enameled steel tubs, either can damage acrylic, fiberglass or epoxied tubs, but it depends on the model and what/how its made.  i would probably do a test on a single tub in a single unit to make sure it won't destroy the underlying finish.

when all done, clean the area with a good degreaser and then some plain white vinegar (to neutralize the alkalinity of the degreaser)

hope that helps


How to work around bowed king stud for a window frame? I'm framing for a new window in an existing wall, and the left king stud bows out slightly. How can I fix this? My current plan is to place the new (straight) jack stud against the king stud, and add a shim between the two where I'm nailing them together to keep the jack stud straight. This would result in a small gap between the king stud and the jack stud, but otherwise both pieces should continue to function as expected. See the picture below for the king stud, I added a straight red line to make the bowing more obvious.

What you have there is not too bad at all. It will, if left alone and nail the jack stud tight to it, will only mean a larger rough opening, maybe a 1/4-3/8" at the worst place it occurs??? Not a biggie. Yes you can shim it straight if you choose to, make sure it is well nailed, 2 nails at either end, the bottom preferably toe nailed into the bottom plate, and the remainder nailed at least every 16" approx. in a staggered fashion. That is roughly 16" from the top and bottom, it can be closer, drive a nail favoring one side of the jack stud, then move another increment and favor the other side of the jack stud. If you choose to, you can double nail it all he way along the stud.


Which tape to seal seams between XPS panels? I am planning to insulate my basement walls with XPS. I'll be gluing the panels to the wall and taping the seams. However, I'm finding conflicting information on which tape to use. The most common recommendation I've found is Tyvek tape, but apparently Tyvek has recommended against its use on XPS:

  Tyvek warns against the use of Tyvek tape for sealing seams in plywood, OSB, or XPS foam. “The tape is designed to stick to Tyvek wrap,” said Alan Hubbell, a residential marketing manager for Tyvek. “Plywood and foam will expand at different rates from the tape, and over time it will crinkle and wrinkle and pull off.” link

I've also seen foil tape recommended, which seems like a good option, but I don't know if it's adhesive is compatible with XPS. Any other recommendations?

I ended up going with Owens Corning JointSealR Foam Joint Tape, as it's the only tape I could find that mentions working with XPS, specifically. From the manufacturer:

  Owens Corning JointSealR Foam Joint Tape is an effective product to tape the joints of FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene (XPS) board in vertical wall applications when it is used as continuous insulation over steel or wood wall framing, or as masonry cavity wall insulation.

https://www.owenscorning.com/insulation/products/jointsealr-foam-joint-tape

I found only one place that sells it, and it wasn't cheap at $37.50 for a 90 ft. roll.


Replacing subpanel in detached building - yet another ground/neutral question Here's the situation.  I've added on to my detached shop/garage and need to upgrade the very small subpanel.  The existing garage pre-dates the 2008 NEC by at least a decade, and is supplied by a 3 conductor (2 hot, 1 neutral) service.  The old panel didn't even have separate ground and neutral bars.

I've found several threads that address this (Can I install a Subpanel..., How can I safely connect a subpanel..., How to properly ground a subpanel...), and the consensus seems to be that NEC 250.32B Exception 1 & 2 would apply and I should bond the ground & neutral at the subpanel in the new panel and install ground rods at the detached garage.

HOWEVER - I have also added gas service to the garage.  Does this mean that I don't meet requirement 2 of Exception 1?  The gas line is bonded to the equipment ground in the house and garage as required by NEC 250.104B and NFGC 7.13.1,  The gas service to the garage was installed by a contractor using a plastic pipe, but I believe a conductor is buried with it to provide electrical continuity between the garage service and the main line.

So, if I don't meet requirement 2 of Exception 1, does that mean that I need to install a ground conductor from the subpanel back to the main panel.  This would be a substantial PITA.

If I do have to install this ground conductor, how deep would it have to be buried?  Same as the requirement for direct bury cable (24" I think)?

Ok, just got off the phone with a guy from our regional building department.  The conductor that is buried with the gas line is NOT meant to electrically connect the metal pipe in the garage with the main service line (& therefore house, which has metal pipe from meter).  The conductor is a tracer and is only there to assist in locating the gas line.  It should not be connected to the pipe at either end.

So with a plastic pipe on the gas, there is no alternate conductive path back to the house, so I'm good on Requirement 2.  I just bond the neutral & ground at the sub-panel and put in two grounding rods (which should have been there for the old system as well).


Are there efficient ways to provide combustion air to heating appliances? In a previous question we established that there probably should be a vent between my utility room (which opens into the kitchen and living space in general) and the outdoors (in my case the attic, which is a separate issue)

This seems hopelessly inefficient. Is there a better way to provide combustion air to the furnace and water heater, without having a direct vent between my living space and the outside air?

I am a little concerned that you are overthinking this situation. Naill C gave you some good advise in your last question. There are very few houses not built to be virtually air tight with an air exchange system that do not have enough natural air flow to support open combustion appliances.The simple act of opening a door to enter or exit the house allows large amounts of fresh air in during cold weather when windows are closed.  Unless you have made extreme attempt to block all air infiltration, there is probably pleanty of combustion air passing through your louvered/slat door. I totally understand your desire to minimize heat loss from the rest of the house. Before any external venting will improve the situation, the utility room will have to be somewhat sealed from air flow from the living space of the house. In new construction a vent of a calculated size is brought in from the out of doors, screened and baffled, and strategically located just above the floor by the appliance. The mechanical room is almost air tight, insulated and lined in a fire rated material. Since this space is indoors and only calculated amount of outside air is allowed in, freezing is not normally a concern if water utilities are also in the room. Drawing air from an attic can be risky. Obviously some think it a good idea, however there are drawbacks. If the attic is not well ventilated the air may not be sufficient. I simple vent register in the ceiling to the attic will let as much heat up as it pulls air down. In fact, any open path into the attic can be dangerous. A register, vent pipe etc. can act as an easy path or chimney for fire or natural gas to spread quickly into the attic. If you decide to proceed in isolating and venting your open combustion appliances, pick one of the proven techniques and run it by your local building code officer for local compliance. Better safe than sorry.


LED lights do not turn off completely? Why? Just bought new flush mount ceiling LED lights.  the light in the hallway has 2 switches to it and this light does not completely turn off when flipping the switch off.  The tabs are always dimly lit.  Is this normal? Should we be concerned about fire?  Why does this happen?  Is the light defective?
Thanks

It's NOT dangerous, but annoying.

It's floating/induced voltage that exists due to the travelers between the switches run in parallel. You can prove this by pulling just one travelers off a switch on either end of the switch circuit (or if standard toggle light switch putting one switch in the non-existent yet functional 'middle' position which breaks the connection and doesn't keep one traveler wire energized).

One answer is buy higher quality bulbs, another is just ignore it.


Do I need blocking between 2x8 joists with an 8-foot span in a kid's fort? About to embark on a DIY project to build my kids a fort.
It will be a deck using 4x4's for legs, holding up a box of 2x8's. Three interior joists for a total of 7 2x8's will make up the frame for the floor. The 2x8's will be attached to each other using 3 1/2" long, either 3/8" or 1/2" thick galvanized lag screws.
On top of this, I will be building walls 5' high out of 2x4's and cedar fence boards, with a simple gable roof.

My question is: should I use blocking between the floor joists? I know this prevents cupping, but is there a structural need, or is this overkill?

Not really. 8 feet is a fairly short span, and you're unlikely to see substantial movement even with some warpage. It certainly won't be enough to reduce the capacity of the floor to a dangerous degree. (No deck I ever recall seeing has had joist blocking.)

Minor point of clarification: Blocking doesn't reduce cupping (curvature of lumber across the grain). It prevents displacement (curving) of the joist along its length. That's not typically referred to as "cupping".

One further suggestion... Typically flush beams (rim joists acting as beams) are sized larger than the common joists because their load is much larger. I'd either double yours, increase the rim size to 2x10, or reduce the common joists to 2x6, depending on your stiffness standards. 2x6 joists on 16" centers are adequate for a playhouse of that size, IMO.


electrical range - oven temperature not set I have a pretty old electrical range GeneralElectric RCBS536DN2WW. The problem is that I can't use the oven: whenever I set the temperature with a temperature knob, it raises up rapidly and everything inside the oven burns. Also oven light indicator on the control panel always stays on, even with all knobs set off.

I googled and it looks like a problem with a thermostat, which has to be replaced. However, I also read it could be an issue with temperature sensor. I'd appreciate if someone could share his/her similar experience with ranges/ovens.

Thanks.

The oven control problem could be either the temperature sensor or the thermostat.

In the case of the temp sensor the heat control system looking for an input from the sensor to indicate that the oven is heating up will never get that indication from a broken sensor. It will thus keep heating away with continued hope to get a reaction out of the temp sensor.

In the case of the thermostat the control mechanism may be broken in an number of ways depending upon the type of control that it is. Some thermostats use direct electrical contacts to gate power to the heating element and these contacts can sometimes arc and weld shut causing power to be continuously applied to the heating element. Another thing is that some thermostats use a flexible metal strip as part of their mechanism that responds to temperature or pressure. These flex with usage and can eventually fatigue to the point of no longer moving.

In both cases the faulty part would need to be replaced. You may find it advisable to replace both, particularly if the oven unit is quite old.


Knots: tighten rope used for fence I recently posted a similar question, but the design has changed, so here's the new question.

I have two 4-ft x 4" x 4" wood posts, and each post has two screw eyes. There's 12 feet of distance between each post. I would like to recreate the design in the image, but I want it to be tight, not sagging. I'd use a 3/4" rope with no stretch.

How can I tighten this rope so that it's taut? Once it's tight, I'd Like to use a knot to secure it (I'd rather use a knot than a crimp sleeve).

Since this more decorative, I can pull and then tighten, but I prefer using something that can make it even tighter.

Both the taut line or cinch would work I believe the cinch will get it tighter. Or a combination of cinch and a couple of 1/2 hitch to secure the cinch.


Can I modernize old sliding doors with new frames Can I reuse the glass in an old aluminium sliding door and put them into a new modern frame.

Thanks.

No, the aluminum door frames are designed for specifically sized panes that work with each manufacturer's proprietary glazing strategy. Finding a door frame that would fit your glass would be extremely unlikely; equally unlikely would be that a manufacturer would even supply a door frame by itself. Most aluminum door manufacturers will create custom size units, but trying to get them to fabricate a custom door frame only, to fit your glass, would be highly unlikely and more costly than a complete new unit with the glass.

Also, there is the problem of the surrounding aluminum framework and track, which are designed to work with the original door frame and rollers and would not likely work with a new "modern" door frame.

Also, I suspect that an entirely new unit would actually cost less than what you would end up paying, were you able to find a willing supplier.

Also, if your old glass is not tempered safety glass (older units often are not) it should not be used for a door at all.

An alternative might be to have a wood frame designed and built at a custom door and millwork shop; again, likely to be more $$ than an entire new aluminum unit.


Should I use staples or attachment for 6/2 cable? I am installing 6/2 Romex cable. I have previously installed 10/2 cable, and have installed larger cable for a subpanel feed. For my 10/2 wire, I still use staples, although it is those strap versions designed for bigger cable. For subpanel feeds, I use single hole metal straps, the same as the existing panel feed.

I can't seem to find a staple rated higher than #10 wire. I guess I could put it under single hole straps, but it would fit loosely, those are not really designed for cable.

Whats the correct answer here?

You can use metal staples, which give you a bit more size flexibility. Just be sure to go forth gently and not crimp the cable jacket at all.

There are staples with plastic caps for that size cable, though.

  Secure ... 8/3 - 6/3 non-metallic sheathed cable... to wood framing


How to plumb a point of use water heater overflow I want to add a small tank-type point of use water heater under my kitchen sink.  What is the best way to plumb the overflow?  Obviously there is no floor drain under the sink or nearby.   Is it possibly to add one somehow to the existing sink drain pipe?

You can add a “T” fitting to your sink drain there are metal versions available also.
The “T” section needs to be above your P trap. This is how dishwashers are usually drained but should be fine for your overflow line.


Can I convert a window A/C unit in to a pool-water cooled system? I have an 18,000 BTU A/C unit that blew a compressor last year. Perfect for a small project. I however could not find a professional to help me out, so maybe it's DIYable. I know just about enough about this to know I'm no match for a professional.

I thought it would be awesome to heat the pool and cool the house at the same time. The pool's a 24 foot above ground pool and has no heating right now, it averages about 70 degrees. Bonus is that it could act almost like a split system - the water could be piped right up to the unit rather than having the fan hanging off the back.

Parts

Condenser: I've sourced two American-made water heat exchange manufacturers and spoken to one of them. I really like the Aqua Systems model, but the smallest is rated at 2 tons - that's apparently 24,000 BTU. A very friendly guy there referred me to Edward's Coils - but they don't seem to have much data online. If I can't use the Aqua Systems model for technical reasons, I'll get in touch with Edward's coils and see what they have to offer. My question here is will the 2 ton unit overload the rest of the compressor, and why?

Compressor: The compressor is dead in the unit. It seems to be a sealed unit, I'm not sure about repairing it. If I was to replace it, is there any reason I should replace it with the exact same part? Is there a different compressor type that would better serve this purpose?

Assembly

I'm going to have to find somewhere to evacuate the refrigerant in here. Any suggestions?

I'm good at soldering, however I've never soldered on an A/C unit before. Is there anything chemically different? I know coolant in automotive systems tends to seep into the metal and requires extra cleaning, I'm not sure if there's anything of that nature here.

If the condenser I remove has different size tubing than the new water cooled compressor, would an adapter suffice?

Any suggestions on where I can get it charged up after it's assembled? How would one calculate the refrigerant requirements?

There is no Yes or No to this question.

Chlorine & Copper

You will have to keep your chlorine and acidity levels in constant harmony, otherwise the acidity will corrode and pit your copper tubing. Using aluminum would be exponentially worse. It the cooler your pool water gets, the worse effects it would also have on the copper. You can find good information from the EPA.

BTU's

A BTU is a British Thermal Unit. It takes one BTU to increase the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Farenheit. The average swimming pool is 20' x 30' x 5'. That would mean that the average swimming pool is about 22,500 gallons of water. Since one gallon of water weighs 8.34 lbs., the water in an average sized pool would weigh 187,650.

That means it would take 187,650 BTU's to increase that pool temperature by one degree. Since you would only have about 10% of that amount of BTU's required - it is very likely that the pool would simply absorb and disperse the heat transferred from your residence and never actually raise the temperature of the pool. Gullberg & Jansson has some great information on their website about heating pools.

Refrigerant and Line Set

In general it would take about 0.6 oz of refrigerant for each foot of copper tubing above 15'. Different manufacturers have different specifications of course. Considering it is a window unit, it would already have less refrigerant than say, a mini split unit.

The average 1.5 ton, or 18,000 BTU, mini split unit take about 3-4 lbs. of refrigerant and usually have about 15' of line set available 'in the box.' Depending on how long your copper tubing would be, you could be seeing so much heat loss just within the copper tubing itself, it would never "make it" to the pool. Plus, all of the possible extra refrigerant would be so hard on a compressor that small, compressor failure would always be right around the corner. Some good information can be found at ACHR News.

Legal Activity

In order to 'work' with Refrigerant, in fact, even buy (most) of it, you have to be EPA Section 608 Certified. There are 4 types of certification. There is Type I, Type II, Type III, and Universal. There is also EPA Section 609, but that is for motor vehicles. Without certification, you run the risk of EPA prosecution. And before you think that you will never get caught, there is a reward for turning people in. Information can be found at the EPA website.

Tools You Need

Recovery Machine
Recovery Tank
Vacuum Pump
Manifold Gauges
Low-Loss Fittings
MAPP or Oxy/Acetylene Torch Kit
Pipe Cutter
Pipe Reamer
Sand Paper/Emery Cloth
Silver or Silver Phosphate Brazing Rods
General Mechanics Tools
Possible a Bucket of Ice and/or Bucket of Warm Water
Various Other Tools Depending on the Task at Hand

As you can see, there is a lot of specific tools and machines that you need to perform the job, not only legally, but safely. They are also very expensive to the average person. It is not uncommon for a vacuum pump to cost between $150 - $500. You can double and triple that cost for a Recovery Machine. There is a reason that most technicians work for a company that provides all of the tools required. It is hard to start off in the industry self-employed when you require certifications and tools that all cost money.

Conclusion

I would find a local HVAC/R Technician and run the idea across him. Ask him to come out and see what the job would entail. Ask him for advice. Ask him for a material cost and/or a list of what it would take to get the job done. Remember, this is only estimate stuff - because he may just tell you it isn't worth it, isn't possible with the equipment provided, or would be much more hassle than the intended benefit.

You could hire me to do it! But that would cost you a plane ticket, a case of beer, and a good home cooked meal before I even consider it.

About Myself

I am a...

Section 608 Universal HVAC Technician
Section 609 MVAC Technician
Certified Commercial Mold Inspector
Certified Indoor Air Quality Technician
Certified Green HVAC/R Technician
CO2 Refrigerant Safe Handling Certified
R-410A Refrigerant Safe Handling Certified
Certified Home Inspector
Member of American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air
Conditioning Engineers
Associate of Institute of Refrigeration
Member of International Association of Certified Home Inspectors
Member of International Association of Certified Indoor Air
Consultants


Sauna heater wiring help needed I bought a heater from amazon : https://www.amazon.co.uk/ECO-WORTHY-Electric-Heater-Controller-Shower/dp/B01B2IWJNO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I want to do a DIY sauna and need help with wiring as this thing comes with external control unit and is for 220V AC.
This is what I get in manual :

Wiring diagram:

And this is physical heater and controller:

Can anybody help me out as I am not professional electricial, and could somebody show how to wire heater properly? I will be using 220V AC , as my household does not support 3 phase 400V.
I would appreciate any help, but maybe a list of what else do I need, and some diagram how to wire it, as i do not understand fully how do i wire heater to controler and input to heater.
Thanks a lot!

Well you better return it because it is designed to be run off 3 phase not single phase.  You can contact the manufacturer and ask if it can be run off single phase using different wiring they may support that but I seriously doubt it.


Fridge Water Line Leaking My fridge water line is leaking, not the line running from the wall to the fridge, but the line that is inside the fridge.  The issue is the connection where the inside line meets the outside line.  This is an image of where the issue is, the white tubing where it connects to the green is not connected very well anymore and water just sprays everywhere when the water goes through the line.

What piece(s) are needed to repair this?

EDIT
No fridge guru's around here that can assist in the name of this part?  Or what else can I provide so that we can track down exactly what this is?

I got down there and did some further digging and research.  Come to find out it was the plastic tubing that provides water internally to my fridge that was leaking where it connects to the piece in the image in my OP.

Fortunately, the plastic water line was only attached by a tension ring (apply some pressure and pull the line out) and I removed the water line, provided a new clean cut, and reattached and everything is fine and dandy again.


BX cable in plaster by sink I am re-plastering a wall in my kitchen after removing some damaged plaster. I am burying the electrical in BX cabling before plastering as allowed by NEC. However, NEC does say BX is not allowed in wet or Damp locations:

320.12 Uses Not Permitted.
Type AC cable shall not be used as follows:
(1) Where subject to physical damage
(2) In damp or wet locations
(3) In air voids of masonry block or tile walls where such walls are exposed or subject to excessive moisture or dampness
(4) Where exposed to corrosive fumes or vapors
(5) Embedded in plaster finish on brick or other masonry in damp or wet locations

NEC Damp Location:
"Locations protected from weather and not subject to saturation
with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of
moisture. Examples of such locations include partially protected
locations under canopies, marquees, roofed open porches,
and like locations, and interior locations subject to moderated
degrees of moisture, such as some basements, some barns, and
some cold storage buildings."

NEC Wet Location:
"Installations underground or in concrete slabs or masonry in
direct contact with the earth; in locations subject to saturation
with water or other liquids, such as vehicle washing areas; and in
unprotected locations exposed to weather."

These definitions do not really help. Because the cable will be buried in the wall behind a sink does that count as damp and wet?

You're fine

A "damp location" in the NEC is a location that's subject to dampness on a regular basis, not any location that conceivably could be damp at some point in time.  For instance, a walk-in cooler is a damp location because of condensation forming on a regular basis, and the area beneath a fixed awning will often be subject to dew (and sometimes to horizontal rain), but the bathroom vanity cabinet is a dry location even though it will get wet if the sink leaks (because a sink leaking is hopefully not a regular or normal occurrence).

This is accounted for by the definition of "Location, Dry" in the NEC:

  Location, Dry. A location not normally subject to dampness or wetness. A location classified as dry may be temporarily subject to dampness or wetness, as in the case of a
  building under construction.


Can I move a kitchen waste vent? If so what is allowed? I an adding a large opening between my kitchen and living room just above countertop level, but realized the sink vent is there.

I want to move it ~30" away. See photos. My plan would be to use two street 1/16 elbows to get the 2" ABS into the wall, then run it through the wall vertically.

Is this allowed? Anything I'm missing?

If that vent is only venting the lav, you can use an AAV

Its approved by IPC, and many jurisdictions these days.


Prep drywall before backsplash I'm looking to put up some new backsplash. I took off the old tile as carefully as possible, but some drywall was damaged. I put one hole in the wall which I will patch, but the rest, as you can see in the pictures, is in rough shape. The drywall is still solid, but the top paper ripped off in a lot of spots, and in some spots the glue is still showing.

I'm wondering the best way to prep before starting. Can I take all the paper off and tile right over the brown paper on drywall? Should I run some drywall mud over? Maybe do a thin layer of mortar and let it dry then tile over that?

Thanks for help

If I were you, I'd install some backer board or gypsum board first. The backer board can directly attach to the wall and provide better adhesion for your tile. They're available in 1/4" thick so it shouldn't add too much to the wall.


Acceptable material to cap a brass/copper fitting I have a soldered copper water pipes that terminate in a 3/4" male thread adapter.  That is screwed into a brass gate valve female-female.  The valve won't close fully.

I want to cap the pipe.  I can use a pipe plug on the brass valve or remove the valve and use a pipe cap on the copper thread adapter.   I don't want to un-solder the thread adapter for a sweat cap.

Shopping around, I find plugs and caps in PVC, galvanized iron or black iron.  Copper threaded caps seem nonexistent and brass ones are rare and expensive.

I don't want to use solder because it involves soldering.

I don't want to use brass or copper because the stuff is expensive. Can I get away with PVC?  This is all on cold pipe.  What's my best choice to avoid galvanic corrosion problems?

You could cut off the threaded adapter so you have plain copper pipe, then push on a Shark-Bite cap (they're about $6-8 at most home centers or hardware stores).

Otherwise, a stainless steel cap could be used if you're having a hard time sourcing an affordable brass threaded cap.


Romex through attic to exterior panel We are remodeling our kitchen and getting quotes for updating the electrical. We have received 2 quotes so far.

The service panel is on the exterior of the house opposite the location of the kitchen.

First quote calls for running UF-B through the crawlspace going through the exterior wall inside EMT that enters directly into the breaker box.

Second quote calls for running NM-B through the attic and going through the exterior wall inside EMT that enters directly into the breaker box.

The second quote is less expensive. It looks like the main reason is the cost of the UF-B vs. NM-B.  When asked about the difference the first electrician said that the only option with an exterior panel is to use UF-B, because the wire is exiting the controlled envelop of the house and may become wet. The second electrician disagrees and says that NM-B is allowed to exit the envelope of the house if it is going directly into the breaker box and is protected in conduit.

Who is correct?  I can see both sides.

We are in NC.

Thanks.

Your first quote is correct

NM-B is not rated for wet locations, and Code reflects that in NEC 334.12(B) point 4:

  (B) Types NM and NMS. Types NM and NMS cables shall not
  be used under the following conditions or in the following
  locations:

  (4) In wet or damp locations

Furthermore, the inside of any conduit located in a wet location, such as outdoors, is also automatically a wet location, due to condensation issues if nothing else.  This is codified in NEC 300.9:

  300.9 Raceways in Wet Locations Abovegrade. Where raceways are installed in wet locations abovegrade, the interior of
  these raceways shall be considered to be a wet location. Insulated conductors and cables installed in raceways in wet locations
  abovegrade shall comply with 310.10(C).

So, the second bid is trying to low-ball this by doing a not-so-Code-compliant job; I would point this compliance issue out to them and see how they react.  Personally, I would go with neither option; either the cable would be brought up or down inside the wall cavity then enter the panel from the back, or I would have an indoor junction or pull box at where the conduit exits so that a clean transition from NM to THHN-in-conduit could be made.

Another issue...

Going through the top of a NEMA 3R panel requires special fittings, especially if it's being done with multiple conduits.  Normally, a bolt-on type hub fitting is used to bring a conduit out the top of a NEMA 3R panel, but a NEMA 3R loadcenter only provides a place for one hub coming out the top, as this is presumed to be used for a service mast or such.  Further wiring out the top requires the use of threaded (Myers) hubs that clamp the box from both sides and provide a rainproof seal that way, but that adds cost and requires manual knockout punching in the box top.


Is this wiring suitable suitable for 3-way Z-Wave switches? I'd like to install a Jasco Z-Wave switch (45709) and its add-on switch (45710) in this newish (2004) house, but the wiring instructions do not correspond to what I have behind the current (mechanical) switches. It currently appears to be wired the same as this diagram:

The colors match, and I've confirmed the black wire on the left hand switch is hot regardless of switch position.

Some of the connections are obvious:

the traveler wire just goes from switch to switch
the black on the left switch is line (but not needed; see below)
on the right switch line can be tapped from the wire nut
the black going to common on the right switch is the load

But that still leaves the question of where the neutral connection comes from in each switch. To be clear, the 45709 expects line, neutral, load and traveler, and the 45710 expects neutral and traveler. (Wait, what? It doesn't need line. I guess the traveler wire carries DC power as well as signalling.)

Unfortunately, that style of wiring -- essentially a "switched loop" -- is not compatible with "smart" switches that require a neutral.

The 2011 NEC finally recognized this and now requires neutral at switches, but your home obviously predates that requirement.

There are a few options, but none are easy/cheap:

New wire

Replace the wire between switch and light with a three-conductor (14/3) wire. You get hot, neutral, and switched hot.

New power feed

Run a new power source (which would include neutral) to either switch, and disconnect the existing source in the light.

The existing 3-wire between switches carries hot, neutral, and your signal/traveler, and the 2-wire between switch and light carries neutral and switched hot.

This requires access to one of the light boxes, as well as another power source.

Use an in-line module

Buy and install a Z-Wave "in-line" dimmer or relay in the light box to control the light.

The existing 2-wire between the light and switch would just be hot and neutral, and you'd setup the switch to control the in-line module via z-wave signalling. There is no switched-hot going to the light. The existing 3-wire between switches carries hot, neutral, and your signal/traveler.

Nice thing about this option is it doesn't require changing wiring (and thus no holes/etc). The module will cost ~$60 but that may be the cheapest option compared to the alternatives anyway.


connect copper without soldering I need to connect bow copper as on the picture with a copper pipe, and I'd like to avoid soldering. Is there a special tool for this?

There is a system for connecting copper tubing and copper fittings that does not use solder. Just google "Propress" for an example. Some places rent the tool or you can purchase one. Before I retired the company I worked for used this tool for a lot of
 copper fittings from 1/2" thru 4". It works very well, is quick and does a lasting job.


Bottom few inches of drywall got wet, but wall looks fine. Do I have to replace that drywall? So my basement bathroom backed up, and some water (mild sewage too I guess) spilled to floor, and made its way under the wall. I have sprayed enough mold killer, and Clorox to kill an elephant,  and so far I see no issues. When I tap on the drywall it also feels fine. It is painted in case that matters.
What I really want to know is if I have to replace the drywall of the bathroom? The other side of that wall is not drywall and I am replacing it anyways. (I hope that makes sense).

If you started mopping up the water right away and limited the water under the wall you should be alright. There's usually a small gap between the drywall and the floor so that would help in the drywall not absorbing a lot of water.
Now if the water was an inch or two deep and soaking into the drywall, then you've got a problem because the strength of the drywall would be compromised. You'd probably want to replace it.


Hand-Spray Bidet Connection didn't work due to smaller existing pipes just received my hand spray bidet set i ordered online. After trying to connect the set, the existing pipes found on the installed bidet are smaller than the T-valve connecters. Both the female thread and the main water supply pipe. Can anyone please help with what type of connections i might need to install it properly. The images below might show exactly what i am facing. Many thanks

Look for a compression fitting.in the plumbing department. Something like this as it's hard to guess the sizes by the picture.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-OD-Compression-x-3-8-in-MIP-Brass-Adapter-Fitting-800959/207176460?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-207176460-_-N


Electric shock - was I stupid, unlucky, or a combination of both? One of the double sockets in our garage needed replacing (damaged after a washing pole hit it) - a pretty trivial job that I'd done before. So I flipped the MCB for the ring main, used a non-contact voltage tester to check nothing was there, and set to work. I disconnected the old socket fine, and was lining the cables up to fit into the new socket when... ow.

My finger bridged the live and earth pins, and suffice to say the live wire was very much alive. Bar a few finger spasms I was fine fortunately, and believe me I realise I was very lucky in that respect (I'm in the UK, so that was 240V.) Before finishing the job I then shut off the entire property's electrics - I was taking no more chances.

Further inspection confirmed two things I immediately suspected at this point - the MCB in the garage (installed before we moved into the house) was shutting off power via the neutral, not the live, and the voltage tester was dodgy (I had tested it on the same socket earlier and it seemed fine, further testing showed it presumably had a loose connection internally and only worked sporadically.) Needless to say it's now in the bin, and an electrician has been called to sort the MCB and check the rest of the house for similar issues.

Unsurprisingly this has shaken me up a bit - I would say I'm a rather safety conscious person, and in this case thought I'd done all the checks properly (including taping over the relevant trip switch to ensure no-one flipped it back on while I was working.) In some ways I can't help feeling I was unlucky that the MCB was wired by a cowboy, in combination with the voltage tester failing in the way that it did, at the time that it did. However, I'm not one to solely blame tools - clearly some, if not most of the blame here lies with myself also.

So in short, what should I have done differently - and was I primarily being stupid, or really quite unlucky?

The paranoid way to use a non contact voltage tester is:

Test that outlet shows as live
Flip breaker
test that outlet shows as dead
Test a different outlet that should still be live

The last step is what would have saved you a shock here - its to check that your tester didn't die while you were flipping the breaker, and that you haven't done anything silly like forgetting to turn it on.

Though if it were a loose connection you still could be very unlucky and have it pass all those tests with the outlet still live.


If I have vapor barrier under joists in crawlspace, is hardwood underlayment a problem? I have spray foam under the subfloor with vapor barrier. The foam is sprayed to the underside of the subfloor deck, and vapor barrier is attached to the joists bottoms between the joists and the soil in the crawlspace (converting crawlspace is not an option).

I'm going to be installing engineered wood flooring.

This install calls for an underlayment (such as floor muffler). It seems that most hardwood underlayment also includes moisture barrier.

If I use such an underlayment will that create the dreaded moisture sandwich in my subfloor deck?

Real hardwood flooring does not have a vapor barrier.   It's just wood.

So your product is "click-flooring" type laminate ?   In such a case, Yes you should check with the manufacturer (call their 800 number perhaps)


How to seal and paint a rough plaster and brick wall? This weekend I took down some old cabinets and the support boards that were nailed into the wall. This took down some of the plaster (old water damage took care of the rest). The surface on the photo is what's left after brushing the wall with a semi rough brush, and whatever is left seems stable. We like the textures and want to simply paint everything white, but my guess is we should first seal the surface. What product(s) should we use to seal the surface and what kind of paint to then paint over everything?

In the UK, standard practice is to coat walls in your situation with a mixture of UniBond PVA Adhesive & Sealer and water (instructions on the tin will give recommended mixing percentages).

Then paint over everything with either:

A watered down white wall emulsion mixture (again recommended mixing percentages will be found on the tin).
A white "block out" wall emulsion.

Then paint your walls with your chosen wall emulsion colour. In your case, as it looks like it's a bathroom of some sort, I would go with a emulsion paint specifically for high moisture areas (such as bathrooms & kitchens). Doing so will have the benefit of lasting longer in those kind of conditions, also those specific type paints offer a lot better protection from mold forming on walls in high moisture areas.

Just throwing out a (crazy) idea you might also be interested in, seeing as you are leaving areas of exposed brickwork (not plastered over).

Clean the exposed brickwork thoroughly, then seal that brickwork with an appropriate clear (waterproof) sealer.
Then paint the plastered areas with your chosen colour (as per above recommendations).

The contrast between the exposed (sealed) brickwork and painted plastered walls can make for a great effect (if you like that kind of thing).


How are insulation R-values calculated for wall cavities of inconsistent thickness? I'm designing a house which will have unconventional wall construction that varies in thickness. The wall cavities will be filled with dense-packed cellulose, rated at R-3.7 per inch. I want to understand how to be sure that I'll meet IECC/IRC code requirements for minimum R value for the wall insulation.
I know that it's typical, for example, for the ubiquitous 2x4 framed exterior wall with studs 16" OC to meet the minimum of R-13 if the stud bays are filled with fiberglass batts. Clearly, though, the wall's actual average R-value will be less than R-13 due to the studs themselves, which have a much lower R value than the fiberglass.
So, what exactly is the method used to evaluate a wall's insulation design against code? Is it:

the R-value of the insulation material at its minimum thickness, ignoring studs?
the R-value of the insulation material at its average thickness, ignoring studs?
something else?

As a more concrete example, the illustration below depicts top-down views of wall cross sections, where light gray represents 2x4 studs (vertical) and sheathing (horizontal) and dark gray represents insulation fill. My understanding is that examples A and B would be rated equally at R-13. At what R-value would a wall like example C be rated?

The Building Code (Energy Code) stipulates the R - values allowed for various building components. (See ICC Chapter 11)
Likewise the Energy Code stipulates the maximum amount of windows, doors, skylights, etc. allowed. (See Table N1104.1(1) and Table N1104.1(2))
All calculations are based on the sum of the R - values in any particular component, (i.e.: walls, roof, etc.) To answer your question: when the component varies in thickness, then the AVERAGE of the R - value for any given AREA (given in square footage) is used.
The Energy Code gives allowable “Prescriptive Paths” that meet the Energy Code criteria for walls, slabs, skylights, HVAC, windows, roofs, etc. If for any reason your construction does NOT meet the “Prescriptive Path” for any component, then you can substitute a higher rating for another component...provided it meets or exceeds the rating and area. (It gets a little tricky substituting a higher rated HVAC unit for using more windows than what’s allowed by the prescriptive path, but there is a formula based on your heating / cooling degree days.)
There are energy calculators you can download, which are suitable for your area (zone).  You can stipulate if the studs are 16” oc or 24” oc,I don’t think you can automatically do “no studs”, but you could add the R - values up longhand. I’d call your local Building Official to get the name of such a software program. (Even I can use the program and I have trouble adding 2 + 2)


How to make sure a tile does not bust on a high point in the floor I am tiling a bathroom for the first time. It is an upstairs bathroom so I pulled out the vinyl and luan. The subfloor met the standards that I found else where on this site. I laid hardibacker board with total flex thinset and then screwed it all down. I then taped and used thinset on the joints. I started laying my tiles yesterday and everything was going fine until I reached an uneven spot. It is at the sink area on one of the joints. I have sanded that area down as much as possible, but the tile is still able to make a rocking motion when I lay it down without any thinset. I already cracked one with thinset on it when I tapped the block with my rubber mallet. So here is my question, how do I make sure the tile does not crack? Do I build up the thinset in the low areas? Wouldn't that make the tiles higher than the surrounding tiles?

Edit- this is the case for 1 tile only

Thanks,
Tiffany

Your floor must be flatter period.   You must fix that issue before continuing. This has nothing to do with thinset or anything else.  Thinset is not used to build up the subfloor, it is used to bind to it and create flexibility.


I have 5 regular receptacles outside with one GFCIS on same circuit is this legal? I have a new house come to find out there are regular receptacles on same line as GFCI. Is this legal

Is there a sticker at each of the outside outlets saying GFCI Protected?

If not, this is a code violation.  Raise an objection to the builder / seller / warranty company.  They need to put the stickers on if they are protected, or fit a GFCI device somewhere if they are not.

Hopefully the GFCI device will be sited indoors - it will last a lot longer there.


What are these transformers in my garage for and how do I disconnect them? I just bought a house and there are two transformers in the garage. I'm trying to figure out what they do. The house was built in 2014 and located in San Mateo, California.
I suspect one of them is for the doorbell (since there must be a doorbell transformer somewhere). I'm guessing it's the one with two cables (one for the button and one for the chime).
I have no idea what the other one (the one with yellow tape) is for. What I do know is that it is hot, so it must be powering something. (The blue one is slightly warm, but definitely not hot.) Any idea what this could be for? It's not for the alarm system (I already identified the alarm system's transformer) and I don't think it's for the furnace, since it is not nearby.
I'm also not sure how to disconnect either of these transformers. At first I thought it was an ordinary outlet/plug. I pulled and it didn't come out. Then I noticed that it can twist. What kind of connection is this? and how do I "unplug" them?
I'm going to try disconnecting the wires to see what stops working. But I need to turn it off first via the circuit breaker. How do I verify that it has been disconnected since there is no direct indication that it is or is not connected?

UPDATE: I got a multimeter. The one with yellow tape and 3 cables is 14.7VAC and the blue one with 2 cables is 20.2VAC. I identified the correct breaker, but it also took out the lighting in the garage…

One of them (top picture) is your door bell, and the second one could be the garage opener, sprinkler controller, or low voltage lighting of some sort.
Typically, there is an electrical box behind it and it is 120v. You can use ether multi-meter or electrical tester like this to determent if the wires are hot or not and shut one breaker at the time. Sometime there might be a label in your service panel for those.


How can I automatically disconnect a coffee maker and space heater without tripping the building's 20A circuit breaker? My small office has a 20A breaker and we have to run a space heater in the winter or else we freeze to death. Whenever someone turns on the coffee maker, the office circuit breaker trips and everyone's computers are down for 10 minutes while someone goes and resets the breaker. We've tried implementing a policy of shutting off the space heater before starting the coffee maker, but it's too easy for people to forget.

I plugged both devices into a power strip rated at 15 amps, and I assumed since it had a reset switch, it would actually trip at 15A. Much to my surprise, the office breaker still tripped. I also tried a different 15A power strip with the same results.

I then plugged the power strip into a Kill-A-Watt meter and it measured over 22A with the coffee maker and space heater both running, before I unplugged everything. My best guess is that both the office breaker and the power strip have time-delay breakers, but the office breaker is on a shorter delay. Another theory is that the power strips are manufactured to very loose tolerances and will only trip if the current far exceeds 15A.

So my questions are:

Why isn't the 15A power strip tripping? Should it even have a time delay?
If we just need to buy a better power strip, is there an easy (and safe) way to test at what current a power strip will trip, aside from plugging a bunch of stuff in and potentially tripping the office breaker instead? (Edit: I think I found the answer to this one.)
If all else fails, what can I install between the wall and the appliances which will trip the space heater and coffee maker before the office breaker trips?

Put your computers on a UPS, even a small one. Just protecting yourself from short power outages will save you a bunch of downtime. Even if you resolve your overload issue, this is still worth it.

Most computer users today can get by with a laptop that's under $500, giving you built-in battery backup & portability in a compact, low-power package. Plug it in to your keyboard, mouse, and monitor the same as your desktop today, so your work experience doesn't change.

The power strip you linked to (http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/surge-protectors/home-surge/6050S.html?selectedTabId=specifications&imageI=#tab-box) doesn't appear to have a breaker. I think that whoever wrote that was just confused about what it means to be rated for 15A.

If your coffee maker and space heater are in the same location, you could plug them into mutually exclusive switched outlets. You'll need:

A steel square box, and an appropriate face plate
A regular duplex receptacle. 15A or 20A can work
a 3-way switch
cable
plug (15A or 20A, to match the recep)
fittings

Snap off the tab on the hot side of the recep, then run short leads from those 2 screws to the 3-way switch. This will let the switch choose one socket or the other. Plug in the heater on one and the coffee maker on the other. Now it's easy to make sure only one is in use at a time.

(Later I will add some pictures and other details. If anyone has pointers to the correct fittings and cable, please comment.)


Bathroom hot water issue We just did a small bathroom remodel.  The sink and the bathtub are connected to the same hot water line. Now I am not getting any hot water in the bathtub but the sink has hot water. The plumber did some adjustments under the sink and it worked worked . Today when I tried to turn the hot water in the tub Iam getting only cold water. The house is less then one year old and all the faucet are in good condition. Can anyone have any idea what the issue is. Thanks

The only thing I can think of that the plumber adjusted under the sink is he swapper the hot and cold lines which had been installed backwards. If the hot water tank is at a distant location it would take sometime before hot water reached the faucet. The same would be true if you have a tankless water heater; standing water in the hot line cools when the faucet is closed for awhile.


Building a barrel stove with a horizontal stove pipe I'm considering building a wood stove out of a 55 gallon barrel with a non-standard pipe design, where the stove pipe enters through the front of the barrel and runs along the top to the back. On the front, there's still a vertical section to get the smoke away from the operator's face and to create a draft.

I'm looking for some opinions on whether this design is reasonable and can be expected to work, or suggestions for a different design that accomplishes the same goal better.

Context: This is for a temporary outdoor tent sauna. The idea is to stick the back of the barrel into a tent-like enclosure (with a metal sheet "wall" around the barrel), pile up rocks on it, and splash some water. Having the pipe come out of the front avoids running it through the tent, eliminating the need to create an additional opening for the pipe and ensuring that no combustion products leak into the tent.

At my last home one of the fireplace stove inserts had at least a dozen horizontal pipes that also had rock wool on top to baffle the heat going up, the hot air was injected low in the fire box to increase the efficiency it kind of sucked getting it started because of the baffle. Once it started the heat took all the smoke up and out. the baffle was part of what made the stove meet Oregon’s efficiency standards so it can work and although tough to start it may work better for your plan on heating rocks stacked around the back of the drum.


Filling the gap between deck boards We have two gumtrees over a largish deck - 10 x 4 m with 120mm Merbau. I had 80mm before it was redone. The gumnuts and sticks and leaves are a total pain! The trees are nice but all year they make a mess. Tannin is another issue requiring constant cleaning.
Been thinking of a sealing strip to keep out the crap so I can blow it off at least and not have to scrap out the gaps which are about 3mm wide. The gaps run away from the house.
Is this a good or bad idea?

I'd consider how much rain it gets before thinking of filling the gaps. You could be swapping one problem for another if the deck doesn't slope sufficiently away from the house to properly drain.
My first plan would be
A leaf blower (or even just a yard brush) for the dry stuff, followed by
A pressure washer for what's left. A bit of decking cleaner in the soap container every so often would preserve its appearance too.


Mold around doorknob? Any ideas on why this one outside door may be growing what appears to be mold around the doorknob?
It doesn't happen on any other outside doors (or on the inside of this door) and after painting over it a couple of years ago, it's come back. Cleaning it off also seems impossible (have tried scrubbing w/ various things and nothing comes off).
Seems odd that it'd only happen to this door, but ultimately I just want to get rid of it and have it not come back.

I would temporarily remove the door latch hardware (i.e. door knob and deadbolt) and then use a hand sanding operation to remove the old layers of paint and black stains (i.e. mold and old hand oil prints) down to clean base material.
As you have noted the staining is very good at telegraphing through paint layers and so the only real way to remove all of that completely.
You will want to use care with keeping the sand paper grit fairly fine at the last stages as you get to the base material. This will apply to both vinyl clad and exposed wood frame doors. After sanding it would be a good idea to clean the area with a bleach solution. After dry paint the area with a good quality primer. Use care with the application of the paint to blend the edges up to the unsanded areas to ensure that there is no visible ridge at the paint edge.


What kind of insulation should we put under new tin roof? We live in an old long leaf pine farmhouse that has no insulation in it.  We are going to be putting a new metal roof on the house.  The attic of the house was made into living space and so there is really no attic space between the upstairs ceiling and the roof itself; just the depth of the 2x4 roof rafters.  We are concerned with several aspects of this project.  Want the best insulation material that will help to cool down the house as we live in Texas. The roof currently has shingles on decking.  They are going to remove the shingles and put on 30# felt paper and we want to know can we put insulation on top of the decking and install the metal roof directly over the insulation into the roof decking?  The roofers are stating that you need 1 x 4 lattice and then putting the insulation between the lattice.  Another concern is about the insulation possibly getting moisture on it??  Is a radiant barrier something else that needs to be added or does some insulation come with a radiant barrier reflective sheet as part of the insulation?  Just looking for a good unbiased opinion from someone else.  Thank you so much for your reply.

You can install insulating foam panels directly to the existing roof membrane (decking). The panels are backed with OSB wood panels (the OSB would face out/up). So basically it would be roof decking, then foam insulation, than bonded OSB wood decking. Over it all you would place roofing felt and roofing material. Check out this short video.


Connecting band/rim joist to floor joists on a cantilevered deck I'm building a deck. Joists are sitting on top of the beam and cantilever over the end of the beam a bit.

What is the appropriate way to connect the rim (end of the deck that is perpendicular to the joists) to the joists?   I've seen people toenail it to the joists, but my understanding is you shouldn't nail into the end grain of the joists.  Is there a connector built for this purpose (I'm thinking there is probably a 90 degree plate)?

As Tester101 mentioned, in this application there is close to no load on the rim joist, since your actual joists are supported by the beam. Nailing through the rim joist into the end of the other joists will be fine. I've built plenty of decks like this.

Here's a study that was done on end nailing, and the relevant recommendations:

  Recommendations

  Nails driven into the end grain of wood do resist both static
  and impact loads. However, additional research is required
  in several areas. Of the 4,723 data points on the relationship
  of specific gravity to nail withdrawal strength, only 294 data
  points were from tests of nails with a diameter larger than
  2.52 mm (0.099 in.). Therefore, research is needed on endgrain
  withdrawal capacity of nails with a diameter greater
  than 4.1 mm (0.163 mm) so that Equation (5) can be further
  developed.

  Furthermore, none of the studies evaluated repetitive loading
  of nails from the end grain since joints in service typically
  do not experience strictly static or impact loading. Repetitive
  loading may cause end-grain withdrawal capacity to significantly
  decrease over time.

  There is conflicting data on how threaded nails perform in
  comparison with smooth shank nails when withdrawn from
  the end grain. Three studies showed an increase in nail
  withdrawal capacity whereas one study showed a decrease.
  Since the use of threaded fasteners in construction is increasing,
  more research is needed to determine the effects of
  surface characteristics on end-grain withdrawal.

  Finally, more research is needed to determine the long-term
  withdrawal strength of nails driven into end and side grain.
  The data in this report suggest that over time end-grain and
  side-grain withdrawal capacity may become equivalent.
  Very few test replicates measuring the effect of time delay
  on withdrawal strength were conducted, and more tests need
  to be run to clarify these limited observations.

If you still feel like you need more support, yes, you can find something like this:

at most hardware stores. If you're working with pressure treated lumber remember you will need galvanized plates and connectors.


How do I connect a C wire to an Utica PEG112CDE steam boiler? I want to upgrade my old mercury thermostat that I currently have to a newer programmable thermostat. This little DIY project is for my first late 1920's home that I recently purchased. I currently only have heat hooked, and use window A/C's, however I have no problem running a 18/5 Cable down to the boiler instead of a 18/3.

My question is how to I the C wire from the boiler transformer.

Please see pictures attached from the manual for the boiler (I have no idea why they even have 3 listed). Currently the two cables that run from the thermostat are hooked up to
T-T  terminals (on the top of the figures that run from TH-2).

Would all I need to do is basically run a third cable to the empty C terminal in N-H-C-W-B  terminals on there?

UPDATE: The physical boiler has a Honeywell AT150D1001 transformer attached to it[next to the emergency cut-off switch]; which seems to be supplying the 24V to the system.(See picture below). My question now becomes do I use the white wire or the dark brown wire as the C wire that I run to the thermostat?

The device labeled "PS-802 ELWCO", is a low water cut-off. The "C" terminal there, is not the C you're looking for.

I believe the white wire from the transformer, is what you'll want to connect your C wire to.  I'm not 100% confident though, since I'm not that familiar with this system.  You may be able to contact the manufacturer for confirmation.


Branch circuit sizing for 5 HP 3-phase 230 V motor run on 208 V? If I'm reading NEC 430 Part III correctly, a 5 HP, 230 V, 3-phase motor with 12.8 A full-load current needs a 16 A circuit (125% of full-load current). So, 12 ga wire with a 20 A breaker should do. The 12 ga THHN wire has an ampacity of 30 A, derated for 7-9 conductors makes it 21 A, so that should be more than adequate, right?

I’m looking to run service for this dust collector. It quotes 12.2 FLA, but looking at a Leeson motors list, I found 12.0, 12.8, and 15 FLA for various 5 HP 3-phase motors.

But my service is 208 V 3-phase. Does that change anything?

When selecting conductors for motors in the US, you do NOT use the motor nameplate FLA, you use values from a table in the NEC, in this case table 430.250. The value in that table for 5HP @208V is 16.7A, so you use 125%, ergo 20.9A. The 12ga 30A rating you quote is for 90C, you can only use that value when de-rating, so assuming you are correct on the de-rate factor (I'm not checking your work), you are still fine.

The only thing you use the nameplate FLA for is in selecting the Overload Protection.


Why "extra" power disconnect for small HVAC unit? I am in the throes of learning enough to do a DIY install of a small heat pump package unit.

The installation manual calls for (and suggests that NEC requires) a "fused disconnect" inline with the power from the panel to the main unit.

I have two points of confusion on this.  If my HVAC unit is right next to the main breaker box (like 3 feet away), what's the point of this (to my mind) "extra" disconnect box?

why does it need a "fuse" (the breaker will be dedicated to the hvac unit)
why does the HVAC needs its own dedicated disconnect rather than just shutting off the aforementioned breaker in the breaker box (right next to the HVAC unit)?

While we're at it, this is 2015... does ANYTHING in residential wiring still use an actual "fuse"?  Why would it be a fuse rather than a breaker?

Disconnects are required when the equipment is too far from, or not within sight of the breaker (or branch circuit disconnect) (commonly known as "Serviceman disconnects" or "Serviceman switches").  This is required so that while you're working on the equipment, it's less likely somebody will accidentally energize the equipment (flip the breaker on).

National Electrical Code 2014
Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use
Article 440 Air-conditioning and Refrigerating Equipment
440.14 Location. Disconnecting means shall be located within sight from and readily accessible from the air-conditioning or refrigerating equipment. The disconnecting means shall be permitted to be installed on or within the air-conditioning or refrigerating equipment.
The disconnecting means shall not be located on panels that are designed to allow access to the air-conditioning or refrigeration equipment or to obscure the equipment nameplate(s).

Fuses are used for overload protection, mostly for motors. The fuse is typically sized to the motor load it's protecting, and may or may not be a different size than the circuit breaker. If a motor can't spin, it will quickly overload, overheat, and burn up. A fuse is used to prevent that.
For more information on protecting the equipment, and sizing the protection. See the rest of article 440. As Mjohns answer points out, the manufacturer's documentation rules, so make sure you read and understand it.


How can I best balance current loads among my existing kitchen circuits? I'm at the phase of my kitchen remodel where I have to figure out my outlets.
The Layout:

Each wall of outlets is on one of two 20amp circuit in the kitchen. I have indicated the circuits with Red and Green

The wire hanging out of the wall near position 8 is a 15amp circuit that runs the range hoot and kitchen lights.

The kitchen before had a countertop 1000w microwave (plugged into outlet 6), the new kitchen will have a 1200w microwave built into a cabinet in the same location.

Appliances:

Fridge 340w/ 6amp
Microwave 1200w/ 10amp
Range hood 200w/ 2amp

My plan:

Move the GFCI from outlet 6 and put it at 4,5, or 7 since 6 will be behind a cabinet

Create an outlet at position 8 (purple) for the fridge that will be going there ( the oven outlet is getting relocated)

My question/ problem:
I am trying to figure out the best way to balance these appliances between 2 maybe 3 circuits.
There is no dedicated circuit for the microwave and it wouldn't be practical to add one.

Bad news: putting the fridge on the range hood circuit is a no-go
Your first problem is that you can't, by Code, put a kitchen refrigerator on a general lighting circuit.  This is a function of the way NEC 210.52(B)(1) and its exceptions are worded:

(B) Small Appliances.
(1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.
Exception No. 1: In addition to the required receptacles specified by
210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a general-purpose branch
circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, shall be permitted.
Exception No. 2: In addition to the required receptacles specified by
210.52, a receptacle outlet to serve a specific appliance shall be permit‐
ted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes
or greater.

As a result of this, you'll have to either put the fridge ahead of the GFCI on a small appliance circuit, or pull a new homerun from your panel.
Worse news: you can't put a built-in on a small appliance circuit
Furthermore, putting a built-in appliance other than a gas range, cooktop, or oven on a small-appliance branch circuit violates NEC 210.52(B)(2):

(2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance
branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other
outlets.
Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to
and support of an electric clock in any of the rooms specified in
210.52(B)(1).
Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.

And the kicker: you can't put your chosen microwave on the range hood circuit
Since you're using a built-in microwave, you can't put it on the range hood circuit either, as it'd exceed the 50% limit on fastened-in-place appliances imposed by NEC 210.23(A)(2):

(2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place. The total rating
of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than luminaires, shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied.

Note that if the lights weren't on this circuit, then you could put the microwave and the range hood together on it.  Furthermore, if you used a countertop-type microwave in a cabinet "nook" instead of a built-in appliance, you'd then be able to put the microwave receptacle on the range hood circuit, as well.  But, since neither of those options look to be in the cards, you're stuck pulling a new homerun from your panel.
As to that new homerun...
For this new homerun, I'd pull a 14/2/2 or 12/2/2 (two circuit) cable in order to provide dedicated branch circuits for both the refrigerator and the microwave.  You'll need AFCI protection on both circuits as well, although not GFCI since neither of them are feeding kitchen counter receptacles.


Anchoring Gazebo in planter pot I am planning to buy a 3x3m gazebo. I will be putting it in my backyard. The backyard has pavers, so the gazebo legs will go on the pavers. The pavers are about 20cm apart. As far as I think, the pavers are secured to the ground, so it may be hard to remove.

I want to secure the gazebo, i.e. anchor it somehow so that it does not move or is blown away by strong wind. I am looking for an easier and cost-effective option (over digging, drilling or screwing).

One solution is to put the gazebo legs in a wide/square planter pot and secure the leg into the pot with concrete. This is similar to digging a hole in the ground and securing it with concrete, except that it will be above ground.

The end result will be four planter pots holding the gazebo down. I am thinking of leaving some space at the top of the planter pot, so that I can fill it with soil and plants some flowers, thus disguising the weight.

My question is which type of planter pot should I use (e.g. terracotta, fibreglass etc.). My concern is whether the pot would be able to hold the leg and concrete without cracking.

Another thought is that, instead of putting concrete in the planter pot, I may be able to secure the gazebo leg in it by some other way (e.g. tying it to the pot and then filling it with soil to make the pot heavy.

I am unsure if the above is feasible.

To answer your question, yes, concrete in a planter would most likely crack it due to its expansion and contraction caused by changes in humidity and temperature. However, a plastic 5-gallon bucket will hold concrete, and you could camouflage the bucket by putting it in a planter and covering it with dirt. Depending on where you live, four 5-gallon buckets of concrete might not be enough to guarantee your gazebo won't be moved by wind (thereby bending and destroying it.) You could consider using half wine barrels filled with concrete instead. I would expect 4 of those to be an adequate anchor.


Are there any composite/plastic lumber brands that can be used indoor? I need to build a platform/base in a partially finished basement that occasionally floods. The flood isn't much, about 1/2 inch, but it does stick around for a bit (at least until the dehumidifier takes care of it). Anything made of wood gets soaked enough to weaken the wood, and is probably a good home for mold. My first thought was to use plastic/composite lumber, as it can get wet without any damage, but I can't find information on what brands are suitable for indoor use. I've heard that some brands have gassing issues. Is there a brand suitable for indoor use?

As long as your platform/base doesn't need to be structural, cellular PVC based decking/trim is acceptable for indoor use and that type of moisture exposure. Look at Azek's trim product line.


Will a mixture of acrylic and oil stains dry? I mistakenly mixed acrylic and oil stains.  While difficult to apply, it does look nice.  Will it dry?

I would scrape off as much possible (with grain, avoid digging) with card scraper (cabinet scraper).  Then wipe down with mineral spirits on a clean rag.  Let dry several days and start over.