Adding Venstar Add-a-wire to HVAC I want to add 5th wire to my HVAC control with the Add-a-wire gizmo. Conceptually I understand their instruction diagram, but not completely when it comes to my HVAC layout. The HVAC is single stage forced gas heat and AC, currently controlled by a 4 wire thermostat. All very standard. But what do I do about the yellow wire? On my unit instead of being nicely tied to appropriately labeled terminals, the compressor is fed directly from thermostat's yellow wire. I was hoping someone experienced with these systems can dumb it down for me.

You'll start by wiring the furnace and A/C as follows:

Red from the furnace connects to Red from the thermostat cable and Red from the ADD-A-WIRE™ device.
White from the furnace connects to White from the thermostat cable.
Green from the furnace connects to Green from the ADD-A-WIRE™ device.
Blue From the furnace connects to White from the A/C condensing unit, Brown from the ADD-A-WIRE™ device, and Yellow from the thermostat cable (this is C).
Red from the A/C condensing unit connects to Yellow from the ADD-A-WIRE™ device.
Blue from the ADD-A-WIRE™ device connects to Green from the thermostat cable.

Next you'll connnect the wires to the thermostat as follows:

Red connects to the R terminal.
White connects to the W terminal.
Yellow connects to the C terminal.
Green connects to the ADD-A-WIRE™ Diode 'Y'.
Yellow from the ADD-A-WIRE™ Diode 'Y' connects to the Y terminal.
Green from the ADD-A-WIRE™ Diode 'Y' connects to the G terminal.

WARNING: Modifying wiring for HVAC equipment could void the warranty, and/or cause damage, and/or injury, and/or death. Proceed at your own risk. Also, I don't know anything about the internal workings of this device. If this wiring causes any of the above mentioned problems, don't come looking for me. I'm just some random guy on the internet, who you chose to take advice from.


Can I use 16ga wire to complete a 150W landscape lighting circuit? I am installing some landscape lighting. The kit came with 14 AWG wire. I have 10 lights at 11 watts apiece and a 150 Watt power pack. I need a few extra feet of wire and have some 16 AWG laying around.

Is it OK to mix the 2 sizes?

Generally its not OK.   You don't say whether the power pack is 12 or 24
VAC.

110W / 12 V = 9.16 A
110W / 24 V = 4.53 A

AWG 14 wire is rated for 15A

AWG 16 wire is rated for  8A

So, if you are using a 12 V power pack, 16ga is too small.

It would be technically OK, current-wise, for 120VAC, but I don't know of any 16ga wire rated for distribution outdoors.


Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit inside wall? I’m finishing up wiring a sub panel in an outbuilding. There is an underground run of PVC conduit with THWN, which comes up to an LB on the exterior wall. On the inside I used flexible conduit so I could have a tight bend that comes up to the breaker box. Is this code? I can’t find anything in the NEC about this specific instance. I’ve attached a photo for reference.

I’m in the US (Florida).

Edit:

The outbuilding is an office/man cave for me. I’m going to finish it with drywall. Currently there are 5 total circuits planned, each 120V: lights, a split A/C (20A max), and some 120V outlets. I don’t plan on ever having any heavy equipment out here, so there aren’t any 220s.

The feeder size is 6/6/6/8 (60A max). I’ll have a 60A double-pole breaker in my main panel and a corresponding double-pole 60A in this panel which will act as a main breaker/disconnnect. I know 60A is massive overkill. It’s a 120foot run and I wanted things to be as efficient as possible in terms of voltage drops.

That still leaves me with 1 open slot that I can’t really think of what to do with. I chose a smaller panel because I didn’t want to stare at a huge panel all day, and I just couldn’t think of any additional needs. Even the outlets could have really been consolidated into 2 circuits instead of 3, but I wanted the isolation for the computers/servers.

I hope I didn’t miscalculate. Am I able to use 2 of the slots in this panel for a double-pole “main breaker”, or do I need a box with a special slot for that?

Edit 2:

Here’s a photo of the bend and panel label. It’s fairly tight, but I don’t think it’s deforming the tube like it mentions in 350.24. I can measure the radius if that helps.

Liquid Flex May be Okay

NEC 2017 356.1 Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit

-- Basically says you're good but I cannot tell the size of the flex.
   It looks to be 1in. diameter, which is fine if that is the case.

-- You may need to secure every 3ft or less to be in accordance w/
   356.30 for securing runs longer than 6ft if that were to happen.

However, you have other issues to attend to...

Disconnect Means Missing

NEC 2017 Part II 225 Buildings or Other Structures Supplied by a
Feeder(s) or Branch Circuit(s) require a Means to disconnect all
ungrounded conductors per 225.31

-- Basically anytime you have a separate structure fed by a branch
   circuit or feeder, you need a disconnect means AT THE STRUCTURE
   to disconnect all ungrounded conductors (and no more than 6).
   This is often done by installing a main-breaker type panel as
   opposed to a main-lug which you have used as shown in your
   pictures.

   The NEC does not define structure and as such a piece of wood
   driven into the ground with a sub-panel on it could qualify as
   structure to the authorities having jurisdiction.

Back-feeding breaker as a "Disconnecting Means"

Per NEC 2017 408.36 (D) Back-fed breakers used as a Disconnecting Means
MUST be bolted or secured in place as to not be pulled out.

-- Basically this means you cannot just stick in a 60A breaker
   in you current panel and use it as a disconnecting means because
   it is not bolted in place.  You could use a hold-down kit as
   mentioned in your comment, but I think you'd do better with a
   bigger main-breaker panel.

You still need a Disconnecting Means in the outhouse in addition to the rule of 6

Concerning your comment "...Apply 225.33 (A)"

-- To be clear: Every structure requires at least (1) disconnecting
   means but no more than 6 to disconnect all ungrounded conductors.

   225.31 has (4) exceptions to the location of the disconnecting
   means, but none are related to the rule of 6.

Bushings

NEC 2017 352.46 Bushings for PVC based Connectors &
NEC 2017 300.4(G) Insulated Fittings

-- If the feeder conductors are 6 AWG or larger you will need a
   bushing for the PVC connector entering the bottom of the panel
   box.


How to wire a C-wire from a humidifier to a Carrier furnace? I need guidance on a wire. One wire connects the humidistat to HUM. Another wire should go from the humidifier to COM24Vac. My COM is taken as you see in the picture. Is it an issue to wire the second wire to Y instead of COM?

You may be able to attach multiple wires to the C terminal, or you could use a pigtail as described here.

Connecting the wire to the Y terminal, will not work.


How can I repair a power cable with missing jacket insulation? About 1 inch of the cable jacket is missing. The inner copper wires are intact and insulated.

Can I repair the yellow shield with an acceptable tape or shrink wrap? I need to pass an inspection and want to do it properly within code.

The jacket needs to enter the box 1/4"  if it is missing further back than that the inspector may allow heat shrink but I would probably replace that run so I wouldn't have to wait for another inspection unless you call them and they say heat shrink would be acceptable. Code reference NEC 314.7.C.


Cat 6 PoE Parallel To Power Cables (just for 2 feet) - What should I expect? Preface:
I dont want to repeat the question already posed here.
I am a reasonably smart individual that does work around his house.  I graduated with an EE degree way back when, so concepts of electricity are not foreign to me.  I am aware of many of the reasons why one should not run Ethernet cable parallel to standard house power cable (magnetic induction causing interference, potential safety issues if both cables are punctured, code violations, etc).

All that being said, I am still asking this question and I wont hold it against you if you call me an idiot. :)

Situation:
I am installing a Foscam weatherproof web cam just outside my garage.  The camera supports PoE and I have a PoE router that it will connect to.  I plan to connect the router and webcam using cat6 Ethernet cable

There just happens to be a motion sensor light just outside my garage.  The motion sensor light consists of an junction box (exterior) and some Sch. 40 conduit that goes thru the exterior wall into the garage interior.  This conduit leads to another junction box (interior) where power is routed from the house.  The total wire distance between interior and exterior junction boxes is about 2 feet.

I want to avoid drilling more holes in my house.  I am considering running my cat6 cabling between the junction boxes (thru the conduit) and having it exit the exterior junction box.  I would then hook it up to my webcam mounted close by.  The Ethernet would only be parallel to the power cable for 2 feet of length (even though the actual Ethernet run would be much longer).  Also the Ethernet would be within junction boxes and conduit the whole time it is together (increasing safety from random nails and such).

Question:
Im reasonably certain that there is enough shielding in the power and Ethernet cables to avoid a short between the two.  However I am wondering how worried I should be about 2 feet of parallel run?  Is that enough distance to have adverse effects?  Also, if there is a constant inductance, how worried should I be about my PoE router and webcam being damaged over time?

Any and all speculation and empirical data is accepted. :)

Sorry, but I don't think you are allowed to do this. See Cat 5/6 in same conduit as power: is NM-B required, or is THHN acceptable? for more information.

So while there may or may not be any actual technical problem, there is a code problem. Would there be a problem running your Ethernet outside the conduit, just inches away? According to code, no problem at all (as far as I know). Would it cause any technical (signal quality) problems? My guess is probably not, especially for just a few feet.

But you can't run it inside the same conduit. You can (and this is a frequent suggestion when pouring concrete or digging a trench) run multiple conduits and have a small one for network/phone/etc. and a large one for power. But you can't just throw everything into one conduit.


Single 14/3 wire for 2 independent switches I have 2 switches in the same box and each switch controls a single light independently. I want to replace each switch with a dimmer. Each dimmer will control 4 LEDs. However, the only available wire set in the box is a 14/3.

If I use the exact same wiring, would it work with my dimmers?
I don't understand why I don't read 120V on my wires. On the left switch, I read 65V between the 2 wires and on the right switch I read 70V. I read 0V on both when the lights are turned on.

Circuit is 120V 60Hz on a 15A breaker.

Location: Québec, Canada

Edit following Scott's answer: here's a picture of the wiring:

Lots of things going on here.

You are getting the weird voltages because you are measuring across all hots. If you measure between any of the wires in your box to the box itself (this assumes the box is grounded correctly) you should get close to 120v.

So yes to your first question, you can use the exact same wiring to connect your dimming switches with a couple of caveats.

Make sure your dimmers and LEDs are compatible. Check the packaging or Google it.
Add a grounding wire. (See Below)
The dimming switch does not require a neutral (common in smart switches)
You are going to have to be careful wiring up your lights. That white wire coming into your switch box is HOT, not a neutral. You should wrap it, and the other end, in black E-tape, to mark it. Make sure your chain of LEDs are wired in parallel with the Red or Black wire as the hot, and what should be a different white wire (probably found in the same box as the other end of the 14/3). If you have more questions about the wiring of the LEDs please post pictures of the lighting wiring or start a new question.

based on the photo you do not need to change any wiring. When adding fixtures to the Red wire, Run 14/2 from this box and continue to each subsequent fixture (you can and should daisy chain). In the box pictured connect the black wire to the red wire and blue wire (blue is the fixture in your pic). Then add the white wire of the new 14/2 to the 4 already twisted together. It looks like there is already a 14/2 running from this box to the other fixture. So you dont need to add a wire, just continue chaining 14/2 to that system of fixtures tying all the hots together and all the white/neutrals together. The last fixture of each chain will only have one 14/2 going to it.


How can I fit a trap on a sink bowl that's directly above the vertical drain pipe? I am just replacing an old double bowl sink at a rental unit .  I put a new granite countertop in and now have a single bowl coming down the bottom .  The sink and pipe going to the ground is just about directly underneath each other maybe a half inch off .

I'm having a real hard time fitting the swivel on with the P-trap .  No matter how close I push it is just not enough to get there .  I did read that we can use a rubber coupling and maybe have that work ?

Is there a joint under that escutcheon?

If so, why not run an elbow toward the back wall, then  an elbow upward to a vertical pipe, then an elbow forward to a conventional p-trap?

This would effectively reduce the risk of siphoning water that an s-trap creates.

If there is not enough distance in back of the pipe, the whole elbow/p-trap thing could be canted to one side or the other.

One or more joints could be eliminated if you can find a run of pipe with an integrated elbow. The lower horizontal run is needed only if the elbows don't move the vertical pipe far enough back to accommodate the p-trap.


Repair damaged plaster behind door trim I have begun pulling off the original trim in my 1920s townhouse. The plan is to strip away the 100 years of paint to reveal some of the detail. The plaster behind the trim is in pretty bad shape. Do I repair it, and if so how, or just put the trim back over it.

You do not need to do anything to the plaster behind the trim. If you add anything to repair it, it will add thickness to the wall in that area and the trim will not fit as well. Once it is covered, you will not see it.... just as good as gone.

The thing will be is, be certain to nail the trim to the jamb with 4D nails and 8 or10D nails through the plaster. Do not nail where the plaster is missing, it will be prone to cracking the trim, the wall must be solid where you nail. Pilot holes will be handy, but can be done without.


Wiring garage heater to fit a NEMA 14-50 range plug Living in an old farmhouse that's hard to heat, furnace quit this fall so I'm using a heat pump, space heater and electric dryer to keep the pipes/me from freezing.
I'd like to use a 5000 watt 240v garage heater and forget about the dryer. I have a 50 amp 240v range outlet that isn't used and want to know if I can wire a heater like that to the appropriate plug. It's in a central location in my home and would certainly be more effective than a dryer.

If you have any suggestions on the type of heater I should/could do this with or how to do it I would really appreciate it.

Thank you!

JP

Your concept makes perfect sense, and electric heaters are cheap.  For instance a 2000W Cadet heater is $50.   Of course that's made for permanent installation, not that that's prevented me from installing one in an afternoon and then uninstalling it the next day. You just have to use correct, legal techniques.  The accessories to install electric heat - breakers and wiring - aren't expensive either.

Paying for the electricity, on the other hand...

Anyway, if you want the heater to be cord-and-plug connectd, just change the receptacle to a NEMA 14-30 or 6-30, and put same plug on the heater, and change the breaker to 30A.  Breakers are $9.  You can also just hardwire the heater, but still change the breaker to 30A.


Safely/cheaply covering fiberglass insulation in unfinished basement The title covers the gist of it.  The details:

We bought a new construction house in Central Illinois.  The basement is mostly finished with a family room, bedroom and bath, but there is an unfinished section for the (covered) sump pump and HVAC/water heater.  We have a 70-pint Frigidaire dehumidifier in there.  The outer walls of the unfinished basement have sprayfoam insulation along the very top (above the studs), then pink fiberglass insulation between studs on the external walls - just to the frost line about four feet down (builders did minimum code).

We want to put a couple of litter boxes in the unfinished basement, but one of our cats is fully capable of climbing exposed studs (he's named Monkey for a reason!), plus there are storage tubs they could jump on.

We want to inexpensively cover the fiberglass to protect the cats without risking moisture/mold issues.  We thought about using old bed sheets, but didn't know if that was safe.

I've read where people have used Tyvek (allows water vapor through, although I've seen disagreements on what side faces the insulation), fiberglass window screen or (too expensive for the area we need to cover) pegboard.

Thoughts?

Drywall is cheap and easy to install on walls, you could just put that up across the studs.  I'd get the mold resistant stuff.


When snaking the main sewer line, how do you know when you've reached the street connection? I've had good success clearing out a blockage but am wondering - how do I know when I hit the street line? What does it feel like?

Right now I hit a seemingly impassable point (I didn't force it) about 5-6 feet past the obstruction I cleared - would that be the street?

The cleanout is around 50 feet from the street and I am snaking out around 70 feet (block was at around 60). I'm guessing that is due to the downslope and the fact the street line may be on the other side of the road.

I've done this a few times and I've never been able to "feel" when you hit the street. Maybe someone who does this often acquires more of a feel. I'm at least 50ft from my street, so perhaps it's just because there's a lot of resistance from the 50ft of snake in the line.

The easiest way (other than a camera of course) to know you're at the street is to measure the distance from the edge of your foundation to the street, then add the distance inside plus a few feet to account for it not being perfectly straight and level. If you've gone 70ft when you think it should only be 50ft, my guess is that you're past the street already.  Either that or the markings are wrong.


GFCI wall outlets that also provide surge protection & USB ports Does any vendor make a wall receptacle for bathroom use that provides GFCI, surge protection, and USB ports?
Can you plug a surge protection strip into a GFCI?

If I am understanding the inherent capabilities of each, it may not be possible to do GFCI and surge protection simultaneously, but i wanted to ask the experts.

Of course it's possible to cram everything into a box, but it's not necessarily wise or constructive.  It's perfectly possible to put those things elsewhere.

The GFCI

A great deal of confusion about GFCI arises from most people being acquainted with a combination device which has both a GFCI unit and a receptacle.  They think the two are one and the same.

Actually, a GFCI unit is nothing more than a black box, which provides GFCI protection to downline loads.  Electrically, it looks/works like this.

(Disregard red, blue, yellow and orange; you don't have them.)

They are simply taking this black box, sticking a couple sockets on the right side, and selling it as what you know.  Actually that GFCI can be a standalone module, or even part of a GFCI+circuit breaker combo device down at your panel.

All this to say, the GFCI does not need to be at the socket location.  It can have its electricity fed from a GFCI in another location.

Surge protection

This is even easier.  The surge protection provided in cheap power strips is rubbish.  Presumably you are trying to protect your equipment from surges from other faraway equipment, not your equipment itself. They also make commercial grade surge suppressor modules which can be attached at any accessible junction box along the circuit, or the panel itself.  These are sturdy modules that will provide lasting protection.

USB sockets

With the surge protection and GFCI offsited somewhere upstream in the circuit, you are now free to use any common USB receptacle or USB/NEMA 5 combo receptacle.


How can one tell which ceiling fans are reliable? I want no wobbling or squeaking for a good long time after I buy it.

I looked in Consumer Reports (annual edition) and they had no ceiling fan ratings.

Google turns up mostly manufacturers explaining their great reliability, and a couple discussion threads [1][2].

For the wobble, for various reasons almost all fans will "wobble" with time.  As with anything that spins they need to be balanced.  Fans require maintenance, and the manual should tell you when and how to do this maintenance.  This involves making sure all screws/bolts are tight, and in the case of wobble it will tell you how to balance the fan.  Fans come with shims and instructions on how to balance the blades.


Removing Pin Holding Planetary Kitchen Aid Classic Mixer I'm having trouble removing the pin holding the planetary. I need to remove it in order to remove the top of the machine exposing the motor so I can troubleshoot the main problem with my KitchenAid classic. I tapped  the pin with a hammer & drift punch but it  moved very little. I sprayed WD-40 & still no luck. Some of the pin got worn in the process of trying to tap it out. I also damaged a bit of the paint surrounding the pin. How do I remove it while minimizing damage to the machine?
My machine stopped working properly the other day & it could be a worn gear. I wont know the source until I  have access to the motor.
Thanks

m/qHAWL.jpg

I spoke to Dan my neighbor on the other side of the fence. Told him my planetary woes and he offered up his heat gun, which he swore by for getting troublesome pins out.
I had whacked at the pin with a pin punch and tried WD-40 with no luck. I set the Kitchenaid on its side outside on concrete and heated the pin area for a couple of minutes. Result: The pin popped outed with a few hits on the pin punch just like the the YouTube videos show.
BTW the Kitchenaid chat line folks won't tell you this. They apparently want you to spend more money than a replacement would cost to ship the mixer to them for repairs. If Dan doesn't live close to you, it appears that you can get a heat gun delivered by the Amazon devils for about $15. Case closed.
I hope this works for you and save a perfectly good mixer.


What kind of fastener should I use to attach a mounting bracket to metal studs? I want to hang a 26 inch flat panel monitor on a wall that has metal studs. What kind of fastener should i use to attach the mounting bracket to the stud through drywall?

It depends on the type of mount.  If it's an articulating arm mount, the bending moment at the wall is going to be a lot higher than if you're doing a flush mount.  In that case the safest option would be to open up the drywall and put 2x4s inside the metal studs, and use the included wood screws to attach the mount to the new 2x4s.

If this is a load bearing wall, and you're certain the studs are heavier 20-gauge load bearing studs, you might get by mounting an articulating arm using toggle bolts like these.  If the wall is non-load-bearing, it's likely made of lighter 25-gauge studs, which just don't have the localized rigidity to support this type of mount so you're stuck reinforcing with 2x4s as I described above.

If you're doing a flush (or nearly so) mount, then you can get by with toggle bolts even if you have the lighter studs.

I wouldn't recommend any kind of self-tapping screw in a load bearing application like this.  It doesn't take much overtorquing (especially with 25-ga studs) to leave them just on the verge of pulling right back out.


Adding storage in my attic I'm moving in a new house in a week.  House was built in 1953.  The attic has a small walkway right down the middle with loose insulation on the left and right.  I wanted to put plywood down over the installation to create a ton of storage space.

Good idea?  Or will covering the insulation create a problem?

How much insulation? What size are the framing members in the floor?

1953 house, unless it has already been updated, is probably in desperate need of more attic insulation. That will cost you money all year, every year until it's done.

Any house, plywood on top of the insulation will compress the insulation and cause it to lose effectiveness if the insulation is thicker than the framing members. And barring a few things you won't likely find in a 1953 house, the insulation probably should be thicker (potentially quite a lot thicker) than the framing members.

Finally, an attic that was built as insulation-only, no floor may not be up to carrying much, if any storage load. Your "ton" of storage may come down on your head.


What could cause a ground/soil smell on the first floor? My house is on a slab (no basement, no crawl space) and every summer when it gets hot and humid i am getting a ground/soil smell in our living room. First i was blaming it on the absence of the basement but now realized that i only get this smell in one room. The only difference about that room is that it has a lawn along one wall and a flower bed along another.

Can that be a reason? Maybe i should pave a foot of space along that wall.

What else can cause it?

This is very likely a drainage issue. I would check the following things:

Does water drain away from the house
near this room?
Are plants growing
right up next to the foundation?

You might want to put a buffer of 10" of rock (4-6" deep) next to the house.

Since the house has vinyl siding you need to peek under the siding and see if you have moisture collecting under the siding. Spray the side of the house gently with water or go out after a rain and pull back some of your siding and check for water seepage. The smell could be the result of smells outside but it could be moisture in the walls.

The cinder blocks can also be an issue. Concrete holds a surprising amount of moisture. In addition to the things mentioned above, you likely would benefit from a dehumidifier in this room. Check the humidity with a cheap humidity tester and if the room is over 65% humidity you should consider dehumidifying.


How do I take off this shower head? I have been trying to take it off for a while now. The damage to it was like that when it was installed before I moved in.

The shower head side would appear to have wrenching flats so normally one would use an adjustable wrench on that side. Someone has used pliers and badly scored the surface so if you want to discard the head, then just do the same.

On the supply pipe I use pliers over a rag. It appears that Teflon tape was used to seal the threads, but normally sealing these threads is not necessary. There is supposed to be a soft rubber seal inside the shower head fitting which the end of the supply tube presses against. The water is stopped at that point and never reaches the threads.

I tighten just enough to stop it from leaking. There is no point in over tightening because this over compresses the seal. If it would leak, the leak is only when the shower is on and the leaked water goes down the drain (as opposed to a leak inside a wall).


How do I fix a Well Pump that is on Constantly? Recently my well pump started running 24/7.  What might be wrong, and what are the steps I would take to fix the issue?

There's trouble with the pressure tank.  You are right to be concerned.  Its bad for the pump to be running constantly.

Is there a pressure gauge? What does it read?   Is the P-Tank full of water?

It could be simply needs to be charged with air compressor.  When was last time?


How to replace a chain pulley for garage door? One of chain pulley for the garage door is broken. I need to replace it.
See the image. The white round pulley is broken. I tried to touch it and felt it is very tight.

I ordered the part from amazon. But I worry that I may be hurt if replace it by myself.

Questions:

How to uninstall it?
How to install a new one?
Tools?

Loosen the tensioning screw the BIG SHINY BOLT - lower left side of the rail guide in the image you posted. BEFORE YOU LOOSEN it ...
KEEP YOUR CHAIN IN POSITION. Put a nail through the slots from one end across the chain rail guide and tape it with duct tape or tie it - you could use a wire tie as well if you have one it is much easier.

There should be either a plate that your tensioning pulley is attached to via the bolt in the center of it - you should be able to unscrew it - keep in mind that it might be a left hand bolt AKA: LEFTY TIGHTY, RIGHTY LOOSEY - which is opposite of Standard Bolts which are called Right Hand - Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey.

So to test for Left Hand Bolt try turning 1/8 turn to the right and see if it loosens. Or check the service manual.

MAKE SURE THE GARAGE OPENER IS UNPLUGGED!

Loosening the jacking screw will allow you to remove the chain from the pulley. At this point you should be able to remove the entire pulley with jacking screw ;which might make it easier for you to see how the pulley is assembled in order to remove it, or you can unscrew the pulley. See an edited picture of your picture.


Concrete was TOO dry? I am building a tree house. One side of it will be supported by the tree. The other with two 6x6 8' pressure treated posts.
I wanted to support those posts with concrete footings. So I dug 24" down (minimum required here), and used tube forms.
Inside the tube forms are rebars - 4 flat in a # shape, then 4 coming up from the bottom. All rebars are surrounded by concrete so they don't get exposure to air/soil.
For one post, I surrounded and tube with more concrete. With the other I did too, but less concrete.
When I prepared the concrete, I used exactly the mid-range of water that the bag said (range was 3.5-4.5 QT, I used 4).
It was a bit dry but seemed ok. I poured it in and kept compacting it as I went.
Since then (36 hours ago) I've been wetting the footings regularly.
Now, I begun stripping away the forms, and I see what's in the attached.
Does this look right? There's a lot of little "gaps" there and it's quite clumpy.

One thing is for sure: It could have benefited from better consolidation. This is usually accomplished with vibration. Vibration causes the mix to liquefy, allowing trapped air to escape and allowing the fines in the mix to make a smooth uniform surface against the form.
Professionals often use a power tool that actually vibrates; they immerse it into the wet concrete and move it about. Professionals, and DIY too, can also vibrate a post form like this externally. Do it by tapping/striking the outside of the form with something. Maybe a hammer/mallet, maybe a stick, short piece of lumber, a stake, etc. Hit it just hard enough that you see the concrete inside shake a little. Moving a stick through the concrete in a reciprocating up-and-down motion also helps.
My eye for concrete isn't quite good enough to tell whether your mix was truly too dry, was set up too much before it was placed in the form, or was practically perfect in every way but simply didn't get enough attention to consolidation.
I'd be a little concerned about whether water freezing in those voids might eventually cause the concrete to crack. Given that it's for a treehouse, and that there's a generous helping of reinforcing steel cast into the concrete, maybe it doesn't matter too much.
If you do re-pour these, you could consider placing a post base or an anchor bolt into the concrete before it sets. Sometimes that's a little more convenient than drilling holes and bolting a base to it after the concrete has hardened.


Fan is turning on air conditioner but no air movement A few weeks ago I changed the outside unit's starting capacitor and that got the fan on that unit to rotate and the air conditioning on the enclosed back porch started working.

Today I came home and the main part of the house was hot.  I turned down the thermostat in that zone but I still didn't feel any air blowing out of the registers.  I changed all the air filters but still didn't feel any suction at the filter housing or any air coming out of the register.

I had my wife turn on the air conditioning via the thermostat while I was downstairs listening at the inside unit.  I heard a sound like a refrigerator or dehumidifier kicking in and then a few seconds later I heard the sound of a fan starting up.

I removed the cover over the fan and taped the safety switch and turned on the air conditioning and I can definitely see the squirrel cage fan running and it looks and sounds normal.

For what it's worth the fan on the outside unit for this zone seems to be spinning normally as well.

How on earth can I not feel any air coming out of the registers or feel any suction at the air return?  The only thing I can figure out is that the fan seems to be running normally, but is actually at a lower speed than normal.  It sure looks normal.  I don't see any gaping holes in the ductwork or anything.

I've changed the fan on my furnace in a previous house a few years ago, so I'm somewhat familiar with what they should sound like.  The inside unit is a York affinity 9.V series

Here's a video of the fan running.

That video sure looks like rotation is backwards [it should be spinning clockwise as seen based on the scroll/label], but... could be strobe effect from camera rate? I can't think of how to switch rotation on an ac motor run by a simple contactor but by rewiring the motor leads - racoons aren't that clever [yet].  If it's fooling us, then look at ductwork: if you have flex duct which had an internal collapse, air flow could be blocked. Another option is your dampers used to balance distribution out of the air handler came loose and the butterfly is closed. If it is in fact running backwards, then does it use some solid state controller [pwm, or other variable speed type drive]?  That would be the culprit.


How to Reduce Hinge Mortise Depth Previous owner decided to recess the hinge plate below the previous (larger) hinge plate. While the door closes, you have to pull it closes otherwise it will "spring" back open. The door makes contact with the jamb (on the hinge side), which I believe is caused by this.
I am going to go buy some new hinges, but how to I make the jamb look decent, while still having it functional to put on new hinges? I read this post for some inspiration.
I was thinking of filling the entire recessed portion with body filler and starting from scratch. Is there a simpler method I can do? I read about cardboard etc, but I imagine that looks terrible and is not a long term solution.

Shims.
Go to the local home center and get some of the (free?) laminate counter top samples in the kitchen cabinet section, they are about 3x5 inches.   I then cut them to the same size as the hinge plate. Remove the hinge, place it on the sample and trace around it, it does not need to perfect but it should not be bigger then the hinge. I cut them with tin snips.
They are about 1/6 inch thick so sometimes you need to stack several of them behind the hinge.
Place enough of them behind the hinge to bring the hinge flush with the jam, hold the hinge over them and pre-drill, or mark them so you can pre-drill them, then install the hinge over them.
An alternative is to use a Dutchman. There are many YouTube videos on this. I like Tom Silva's tutorial from Ask This Old House.


Installing thermostat - No C wire or C terminal available on furnace So I've looked through many posts all over reddit and other websites but it seems every furnace is slightly different.

I am an early twenties guy who doesn't want to burn down his apartment.

If anyone can help me wire up my new thermostat I would appreciate it.

I attached an album showing all the diagrams on the furnace/ac which I believe is gas furnace and electric air??

People talk about switching G for C but I don't have a C connection on the furnace?

Overall this has been a very frustrating experience so I thought it best to just ask people with experience wiring them.

If you follow 24V VAC TRAN there are two thick wires SEC 1 SEC 2 that lead to the R (first from the bottom)  and COM 24V = C (4th from the bottom) connections.


How do I finish the open end of a chair rail? I helped a friend put up a chair rail in his house yesterday. It turned out great, except that neither of us knew what to do about where it met the window. Since the window didn't have trim around the outside, the chair rail kind of dead ends without any end piece.

Here's a photo:

Any suggestions on how to finish this? I know it would typically be cut at a 45° bevel, but since it's hollow behind the rail, it wouldn't look right unless it was caulked or spackled.

You could do this as an outside corner, with just a little piece of rail.

I did this with some baseboard right beside a closet (that I didn't want to put trim around), and it turned out well. (Taking this picture also reminds me, I never did quite finish cleaning this all up).

The hardest part of doing this is cutting the edge piece so you get a perfect corner.

Cut the piece (usually there's a scarp piece around that will work). Go longer rather than shorter.
Use wood glue or a construction adhesive (like No More Nails) and a clamp to attach it, with the edges meeting. Let it sit overnight to dry.
Sand off any excess glue that came out.
If needed, sand down the back side so it's flat (if you cut it a bit too long). A couple seconds on a belt sander is perfect.

That's really all there is to it. In your case, you may want to also sand down the front corner a bit so it's smoother, rather than sharp and likely to poke someone.


Dishwasher not filling after replacing sink faucet Yesterday I replaced my kitchen sink faucet because the old one started leaking. In the process I turned off the dishwasher line. Today when I turned that line back on and tried to run the dishwasher, the dishwasher isn't getting any water, even though the faucet is open.

I can verify that hot water is coming up the faucet (into the sink), but none is passing through to the dishwasher by feeling the pipes warm up when the kitchen faucet is on and the dishwasher is also trying to run.

My best guess is that there might be debris in the line, so that the faucet isn't opening properly. Perhaps I could turn off the main water supply and unscrew the faucet to clear the line. But, I'm a bit hesitant to do this without confirmation that there isn't another better approach.

Edit:

Here is the view under the sink with each of the lines labeled.

Edit 2:

Here is the view inside the shutoff valve. The metal ring inside is somewhat loose.

Normally it is that the shutoff valve that you closed never reopened.   Really even if it is debris you are probably forced at this point of removing the valve just to troubleshoot.   There is no use disconnecting the dishwasher as this probably isn't the issue and by disconnecting you are causing potentially more issues.   If you have pics I can give you more exacts.

Update:  Based on your current pictures.  I would give up on the valve.   There is a problem.   The turn valves are notoriously bad breaking like this.   It isn't that I don't think you could pop this open but why spend time working on something that is broke.

I am not sure what the line is to the dishwasher - just guessing it is 1/4".  Depending on how much play you have I suggest unless you have a lot of plumbing experience that you install something like this.   Soldering a wet connection is hard, soldering a wet connection in a space like that is a pro job.   If you get the longest connector (sharkbite type - varies by store) you might be able to get by just cutting off each side, cleaning, and connecting.

Also while at store get a 1/2" cap in case you have an issue and a release cup (sharkbite's cap is like $2 and release is like $1).   Always good to have a cap on hand so that you can turn your water back on when there is still an issue.


Can I make an interior partition wall thinner to accommodate appliances? We live in a condo are looking to expand our laundry W/D space by a few inches so we can upgrade to a standard machine (27" wide). We only need about 2-3 inches to accommodate a larger machine.

The W/D sits in a space where the right wall is facing toward the exterior wall and has piping and vents running through its cavity so it would be best not to touch that wall. On the left of the W/D, we have a wall shared with a linen closet and has only a few electrical wires running through it and what appears to be a transformer. The left wall is about 4" thick from sheet rock to sheet rock. Steel studs.

I am thinking -- is it possible to remove the sheet rock on the side of the wall facing the W/D and somehow decrease the width of the steel stud by 3 inches and put the sheet rock back, giving me 3 more inches of space? This would create a wall that is about 1 inch thick in between the linen closet and my W/D space. Is this idea possible?

We are also open to the option of taking the entire wall down between the linen closet and the W/D, if we can confirm whether or not it is load-bearing or holding any weight up.

Here are photos:

Pantries built with studs and drywall often waste a ton of space, and this looks to be no different. You might be better off restructuring this area to remove the doorway and pantry wall. I would reclaim the pantry space through installation of efficient cabinets that maximize the space (I redid my first kitchen like that and gained more storage with cabinets).


Help understanding the wiring in this electrical box I am working on adding outlets to my garage and decided to open up this strange double switch box that is 6 or 7 feet up on the wall.

There are two separate circuits in this box, one that the kitchen and dining room lights are on, and one that the garage lights and existing outlets are on.  From top left to right:

Cables 1 and 3 are on the dining lights circuit (cable 1 is the power feed, hots were already separated in this pic)
Cables 4 and 5 (bottom right) are 3 wire cable and part of the 5 way switch wiring for the garage lights (lights can be switched on and off from 4 different locations).
Cable 5 is the one bringing power into the box, where the travelers (black and red) are spliced to the black and red from cable 4.
The white from cable 4 is bundled with the other neutrals in the box (which includes neutrals from the dining lights circuit), and the white from cable 5 (power) is connected to the black from cable 2.
The white from cable 2 is part of the neutral bundle.

As you can tell from my description, I was able to dissect the box and identify the cables, and I successfully replaced the box and connections properly and everything works.  But... I am confused about the wiring on cables 2, 4, and 5.  Why is cable 4 picking up a neutral in this box?  And why is cable 2 being powered off of cable 5?  Lastly, is it appropriate for these two separate circuits to be sharing neutrals?  I hope you are able to follow my post, I know it's a lot to read.  Thanks in advance.

OK, so it sounds like Cable 2 is your actual power supply to this circuit.  Black is hot and white is neutral.

Cable 5

goes off to a 3-way switch.  There may also be one or more 4-ways in between the 3way and here.  The 3 wires in  cable 5 are:  (all the way through any 4-ways to the far 3-way):

Always-hot (white, by law, but also requires black tape or sleeving)
Traveler (black; I recommend yellow tape or sleeving)
Traveler (red; I recommend yellow tape or sleeving)

The 3-way's job is to connect always-hot to one or the other travelers.   If there are any 4-ways in the line, they will swap the travelers (or not), alternating which one has always-hot.

The always-hot must be white because neutral is not present, so white is being reused for a hot, and if always-hot is present, it must be the white so it is more clear that it's not neutral.  It also requires the sleeving.

Cable 4

Cable 4 carries the other fork of the 3-way circuit.  Down cable 4, there will be a 3-way switch, as well as any number of 4-way switches; and then at one of those switches, a branch will come off going to the lamp.  The three wires are:

Neutral (white, by law)
Traveler (black; I recommend yellow tape or sleeving)
Traveler (red; I recommend yellow tape or sleeving)

So that pretty much "wraps up with a bow" the cable 2-4-5 relationship.   But now, we've got a problem.

Cables 1 and 3 seem unrelated to the others

If cables 1 and 3 were both downline circuits that got their "hots" from cable 2, I'd be like "Okay, that's normal enough".  But what you seem to be saying is that their hots only connect to each other, not cable 2.   If that's the case, the neutrals mustn't connect, either.

If cables 1 and 3 are shut off by a different circuit breaker than cable 2, then it's absolutely vital they be separated.  You cannot mix neutrals of different circuits!

Granted, you're supposed to clump together all grounds.  But because of this, people often think they can do the same with neutrals.  No.  Nothing prevents both circuits' current from returning on the same neutral (e.g. if one wire broke).  This can cause a 200% overload on the active neutral wire, and what will detect that? Nothing. Neutrals don't have breakers.  Also, it will cause trouble if a GFCI or AFCI breaker is fit to either circuit, because they monitor differential current between wires.

If separation is called for, you might want to just break this out into a totally separate junction box, to reduce further chance of mistake.


What is the white crystals in my water softener? and how to clean properly I bought a Hague WaterMax 63BAQ used water softener about two years ago. It didn't work until a few days ago when I had a specialist come fix it. (see this post Any idea what parts were replaced on my water softener?)

So being a new water softener user and excited about my 'new' water softener I have some questions..

1) My water softener was sitting there for about 2-3 years, and in the brine tank there are crystals all over (see the picture). How do I clean these and what are they called?

2) The lid was off - there are floaters (random trashy things) floating in there, I removed them, is that the proper procedure? I'm assuming because I have the lid back on it things won't get in there as much.

3) Are there any general maintenence / cleaning tasks I will need to perform?  Apparently the technician said that the only thing we'd need to do is add a resin cleaner from time to time. Is that correct? The manual says that

"Your appliance may be disinfected with 5.25% sodium hypochlorite, which is the active ingredient in household chlorine bleach. To disinfect your appliance, add 4.0 fluid ounces of chlorine bleach solution to the brine will of the brine tank. The brine tank should have water in it to carry the solution into the appliance. Start a manual regeneration."

4) After uploading the picture I also realized that i'm very low on salt. I know that it was potassium tablets put in there, I read in the manual you should not mix them. Should I remove them or wait for the potassium pellets to dissolve? I want to switch to the sodium / salt ones. What is the proper procedure?

Sorry for the many questions, thanks in advance...

1) The crystals are most likely deposits left from the evaporation of water that used to be in the tank (as you mentioned, you had the lid off). As the water evaporated, the dissolved minerals transitioned into their natural crystalline structure, which is attractive to the dissolved minerals -- rinse and repeat and you have a larger crystal structure adhered to the wall.

2) You could -- but from the look, my personal preference would be to empty it and give it a good and thorough cleaning.

3) A thorough cleaning once a year is often recommended. Is it necessary? Maybe not, but it couldn't hurt anything either. I'm sure your owner's manual outlines a deep cleaning procedure, but if not, there are a number of resources on the internet.

Regarding the disinfection -- I would follow the manufacturers recommendations. You should use a fragrence-free bleach. Store-brand bleaches often have less additives than Clorox, which is good when the use is "food"-related. Clorox uses additives which aid in the removal of soils (things like caustic soda, soda ash), surfactants, and other ingredients to help prevent stains (sodium polyacrylate). 4 oz does seem a bit much, but the manufacturer would know better than me what should be used.

4) I'm not sure why your manual does not recommend the mixture of potassium chloride and sodium chloride -- these are mixed in water softeners quite often to decrease the saltiness of the drinking water and save a bit of money. My vote is, when in doubt, follow the manufacturers recommendations -- they only spent millions developing the thing (of course, they would also like to make money when you need to replace it, so it's a bit of a double-edged sword).


Foundation drain leaking? The eavestroughs (rain gutters) on this house drain into a 4" PVC pipe system, I suspected there was a leak somewhere because of mold inside at that corner of the house.

I dug down a couple of feet to uncover the pipe, and put a garden hose to it.  the ground was soon saturated with water. There is no good reason for such a system to be leaking, right ?

This is really wrong.  Your drainage system should be moving the water at least 4-6 feet from the foundation - unless you are in a desert where I have seen some set up like yours.

Downspouts to PVC (no holes) to yard.  Just switch out the path of the PVC in question and fix the issue.  Don't think there is any logic to something done absurdly wrong.  I had french drains suppose to outlet to the side of my house from mid back yard.  As they reached 5 feet from the side... they started running uphill.  Don't overthink other's stupidity.


What are the steps to cutting polyurethane? I've seen a lot of tips about cutting the first coat of polyurethane with mineral spirits to reduce drying time.  However, given that it's the first coat, I have a full can of polyurethane.  I'd pour some polyurethane out into a separate container, but am worried this will create air bubbles.  Likewise, I imagine the act of adding mineral spirits to polyurethane could also introduce air bubbles.
How can I add mineral spirits to polyurethane without creating air bubbles?

I normally would not recommend thinning urethane. If you have a new can of fresh urethane, it should be ready to go. I would try to apply it thin rather than a thicker coat. If you feel you really need to thin it, just slowly pour some in another container and add a small amount of thinner at a time. Stir it slowly and you will have no issues with air bubbles. Never shake or use a high speed mechanical mixer.  If you see some small bubbles, don't worry. They should dissipate during application. the only time air bubbles are an issue is when the product is shaken hard and the urethane appears real cloudy.


How do I calculate the proper fan size for a bathroom exhaust and the number of pickups? Getting ready to remodel my bathroom and I'm thinking about installing an inline fan to reduce noise. I'm looking at Panasonic 120 and 240cfm models.

Bathroom is 7' x 8' x 8'. With a shower in one corner, and a toilet in the opposite corner.

How many CFM do I need? Does it make sense to install a Y, and separate pickups over the bath and toilet?

The usual rule of thumb is to equate square footage to CFM.

7x8= 56 SF => 56 CFM.  Rounding up to 80 is typical.

Y'd pickups are nice.

The ceiling mounted Panasonics are plenty quiet, though (meaning just 1 pickup).  I prefer exhaust fan closest to (or in) the shower (new Panasonic with recessed light is very nice) and connected to a countdown timer.

Be sure to have any shower electrics run from a GFCI.


How to install a window ac in a room with improper window provision I have a window ac that I used it earlier. Recently shifted my premises and my bed room has a window with two wood doors that open oppositely and a lengthy wood stick in the middle. Window is safeguarded with iron fittings on either sides of middle wood stick and this is making unsuitable for my ac installation. My owners are not permitting to cut the middle wood stick. Added to this iron gauze is also should be cut for installation. Are there any alternate procedure for installation . Can I keep my window ac completely out side the window

Considering the circumstances you may be facing having to shift your premises back to the previously workable configuration!!

On another track you could consider using a different type of portable A/C unit altogether. There are available floor standing units that vent out through a large flexible hose to a window. There is typically an adjustable panel assembly that can be fitted to the window (see below). Note that there are also styles of these that use two of the flexible hoses.


Is flashing required to attach a landing to the exterior of a house I will have a landing running from the back door, then four or five steps to ground. Do I need to place metal flashing where the landing attaches to the house, or some other means of protecting the house from moisture intrusion?  The landing and stairs will be of poured concrete.

Typically, concrete steps are set onto a slab and not physically attached to the building. There should be about a quarter to half inch gap between the step unit and house. In most installs, a piece to flashing or ice & water shield is placed under the threshold down to the foundation, then covered with a 3/4" trim board. This protects the house from water invasion and also gives a nice look, as the trim can be painted to match the siding etc. The steps are then rested near the trim board. I use pressure treated lumber for the trim board. If you put the steps hard up against the trim or house, expect rot in a few years if it is not pressure treated.


Top of Outlet not Pressing against wall I just found an outlet box in my house that seems to have been placed incorrectly, and because of this misplacement the top portion of my outlet is not pressing against the wall when I screw it in, causing it to jiggle within the outlet. Below is a picture of the outlet.

Hopefully you can see that when I press the top portion that it goes into the wall. Is there any way to fix this issue without replacing the whole box within the wall? Thank you.

They make specialized plates just for this need.

See: https://m.erico.com/category.html?category=R1154&country=us&language=en

Available sometimes at a big box, but always at an electrical supply house.


Advice on adding a LPG Gas Boiler on Central Heating System with a Hot Water Storage Tank heated with Solar Panels I am from Kathmandu, Nepal, and presently trying to install a central heating system in my house using Solar Water Heater.
Background:
Winter days in Kathmandu lasts about 130 days a year. Minimum temperature during the night is 0°C and during the day time is 18°C. Out of 130 winter days, 120 days are sunny days (6 to 7 hours every day).
Solar hot water heating systems for domestic hot water are very popular and have been successfully used for more than 2 decades already.
Plan:
I am going to use the similar system to heat the water and store it in a storage tank to circulate it through radiators throughout the winter. This new system will be used solely for heating purpose and NOT for domestic hot water.
After careful calculation of heat requirements and radiator planning for every room, I have decided to have a 1000 liter hot water storage tank and 5 solar panels to heat the water on my roof top (I have ample of space on my roof for this).
Water temperature is easily heated to 70-80°C solely by solar panels. This water will circulate in the radiators and back to storage tank. In my calculation the 1000 liter tank will keep my house warm until approximately 3 am, then the water temperature will go down, as there is no sun during the night and also during cloudy days. From that point, I wanted to install a LPG Gas Boiler to heat the water.
Question:
I have some confusion on where to install the Boiler:

Shall I install it bypassing the storage tank thus boiler needs to heat only the volume circulation in the radiators and not the whole 1000 liter tank?
Shall I install it to heat the water inside the storage tank and heat the whole water?
Water from storage tank flows through boiler then to radiators. The boiler is controlled by the room thermostat. But I'm not sure if the water can still flow when the boiler is not running. (Diagram Attached)

I have 2 thermostats in the room as a reference of temperature. One thermostat to stop the circulating pump if room temperature is more than 24°C. The other thermostat is to start the gas boiler if the room temperature falls below 16°C.
The problem I am facing if I choose Option 1: the Boiler will start when temperature drops below 16°. Then I do not need to run the circulating pump - how do I turn it off. And vise versa?
I am attaching a diagram for the reference on what I am planning to do. Any help and if anyone had an experience with similar installation would be a really great help.
Presently during winter days, we are using fireplace in the sitting room and everyone gathers around it in the evening, while the remaining house is gets as low as 9°C.

I have no experience working with your type heating system but worked in the boiler business, heating and process applications, for 40+ years. My recommendation would be something like this; install the boiler into the hot water system using 3 way zone valves for connection and isolation, or 2 way zone valves for isolation, and a primary/secondary loop arrangement, and a 2 stage thermostat or 2 thermostats if you prefer. The first stage would control the solar system and the second stage would open the zone valves, and power the boiler's circulating pump through a relay, allowing the boiler to add heat to the circulating water as needed. The boiler would only add as much temperature to the water as needed, while still allowing the storage water to produce some of the heating. An outdoor reset control could be utilized to keep the boiler from overheating the water in the loop. Control of the whole system would be of your own choosing. Hope this helps


Should I connect the ground wire to the panel when the conduit is grounded? I ran 10/3 BX cable to my attached garage for an outlet. The BX has its own green wire for grounding, but since my home is grounded all through the conduit/outlet boxes and is bonded to the neutral in the breaker panel, do I still need to connect the ground wire from the BX cable in the breaker panel? I connected it on the outlet end just because.

First, don't use obsolete cable because it may not comply with current Codes.

Rule of thumb: If the cable has a ground wire, you have to use it.  Only certain types of metal-jacketed cable are allowed to use the jacket as the ground wire.  On the types that are not, they include a ground wire.

Since you are in all metal boxes, you ground this cable to the ground screw in the back of your junction box.  Most junction boxes do not come with a ground screw, but they do come with a hole tapped #10-32 for the purpose of adding a ground screw.  Any #10-32 machine screw will suffice -- however they make cute little green ground screws, with or without pigtails preattached.

If there is no hole tapped, add a mounting screw and then remove each of the existing mounting screws in turn, just to make sure they didn't accidentally use the tapped ground hole for a mounting screw.  Otherwise, you can tap one yourself, it must be #6 or larger and -32 or finer.  Common sheetmetal screws are Right Out.

If you need to land more than 1 wire on the ground screw, pigtail it.

Lastly on the panel's neutral-ground equipotential bond, don't misinterpret that.  Neutral Is Not Ground. That one bond in one location in your electrical system (at the source) has a special purpose.  Neutral and ground must never connect anywhere else, and one should never be used as a substitute for the other.  Each wire has an independent job to do (one returns normal current, one diverts fault current) and conflating them creates a dangerous situation.


Oak (and waxed) furniture over-sprayed with car-paint. How to restore? My great-grandfather was a furniture maker about a 100 years ago.
I salvaged some of his original work from my deceased uncle's attic.
Unfortunately 2 items where spray-painted with black car-paint in the 1980's and I'm looking for advice on restoring it to its original finish.

The long story:
(Got this from my cousin who was 15 at the time and helped his father around the workshop.)
The furniture (a writing desk and matching office chair) was originally in my uncle's living room. His wife didn't like the color and ordered my uncle to paint them black. She was a very forceful woman and my uncle complied to her wishes (to keep the peace I presume).
He took them to the paint-booth in his workshop (he owned a car-repair business). Cleaned them with pre-paint (or something similar, maybe white spirit or paint-thinner) and over-sprayed them with black car-paint leftover from another job.

The furniture is made of European oak (fairly light colored, but it isn't "white" oak) and doesn't have any stain on it. It was originally just waxed.
Over the years (before the over-paint) it probably didn't see much maintenance of the wax. The other stuff I got from the attic had bold spots all over (especially knobs and handles) where the wax had been worn away. It took a fair amount of elbow grease to re-wax and polish them to an even color.
The black car-paint is most likely not water- or polyurethane based. Those weren't readily available back in the early 80's. And I'm very glad he didn't use under-coat or bed-liner for the paint-job.
According to my cousin it was just 1 coat of paint and it was a very quick and dirty rush-job. This matches with what I see: The paint is uneven, doesn't adhere well in places where there was still some wax on the wood and there are some finger-prints in the paint as well.

I would really like to get this paint off.
I'm thinking I best use a chemical paint-stripper to get the worst off. Then heat the wood gently with a heat-gun to soften/melt the wax remains and then wipe them off with a rag and methylated spirit.
Multiple treatments will probably be needed in some places, maybe some careful sanding in really bad spots.
When I get the wood clean I can use some wood-stain or colored wax to even out the color.

The back of the writing desk is intended to sit against a wall so it isn't in view. That does give me an area I can practice on before I tackle the visible parts.

I'm open to other suggestions.  Anybody with other/better ideas?

Self answering to tell you about the results.

I started on the backpanel (which is normally out of sight so ideal for testing)  with 3 different paint-stripper products to see which one would work best with this paint.
Used paint-stripper specifically for car-paint, regular household paint-stripper (both from the DIY store, made by Alabastine). And I tried a 20% solution of dichloromethane which I had leftover from an earlier project.

All 3 worked pretty well, but the regular Alabastine stuff got the paint of better, without the need to really scrape at the residue. (Given the fine detail in some places on the furniture I really wanted to avoid scraping/heavy sanding if at all possible.)
Some remnant stuck, especially where the underlying wax had been very thin or worn away. But from the test with dichloromethane I noticed that that stuff had worked exceptionally well in similar spots.
So I tried dichloromethane as a 2nd application to those spots where the Alabastine hadn't entirely worked. That turned out to work great and got nearly everything off.

So I ended up with making to passes: First the Alabastine and then the dichloromethane.
I then gently warmed the wood with a heat-gun and used a rag soaked in methylated spirits to draw out the remaining wax. Had to do that 2 or 3 times to really bring the wood back to its raw state. This also opened up the grain of the wood which I considered a good preparation for the new layer of wax I wanted to apply later.

The end result was quite good. Here and there a small amount of paint was left stuck in a deep scratch, but I could carefully scrape those out with the point of a knife.
A sanding with fine wire-wool smoothed the wood, without destroying any fine detail on the woodwork.
The wood ended up a bit uneven in coloring, but I will be able to smooth that out with colored wax when I re-wax the furniture later this week.

All in all it was far less of a nightmare than I originally expected. I am guessing the wax underneath the paint was my savior. If the paint had gone straight on the wood, it would have been much more difficult to get off.


How can I fix a garage door that opens randomly? I moved into a new house and didn't have any issues with the garage door. About a week after I moved in, I bought a remote for the opener since the owner hadn't given me one. After programming the remote, we realized that my next door neighbor's remote worked my garage (but mine didn't work their's). I re-programmed my remote with a new frequency and fixed that issue, but now the garage opens on its own.

I've tried using the lock button on the wall but that doesn't help. The only thing that prevents it from opening is to unplug the opener entirely. I don't think it's an issue with the remote at this point because it opened while I was away from my house with the remote (luckily I made sure to lock the door from the garage to the house).

Is this likely an issue with the actual opener or the wiring? Is there anything I can do to check?

If it didn't open randomly before you changed the frequency (to avoid your neighbor) then you probably stumbled onto another frequency in use in your area, and that's why it continues to open unintentionally. You might want to record the frequency variations you have tried, then switch to another (most remotes support dozens of possible choices) until you find one that results in no unintended operation.


main wood floor unlevel my house was completely remodeled about 8 yrs ago. a L beam was installed in basement with 2 house jacks as support.  The main wood floor was even, but as time had the house resettle the main floor is uneven.  The basement is finished and the jackets are enclosed in drywall.  What kind of professional do I need to get to level the floor, and repair any areas.

8 years should not ordinarily result in a significant deflection of the floor unless there is a problem.  Figuring out the problem and how to correct it may involve several professionals, depending on exactly what is wrong and how much work you need to do: structural engineer, architect, soil testing, carpentry, painting, etc..., and you could wind up needing someone to manage insurance claims or deal with legal issues.  It may be as simple as having a GC replace a failing support or as complex as a major erosion problem or faulty building design.

The first thing to do is find a reliable general contractor and have them look at the house.  Before hiring anyone to do major work, talk to and get bids from multiple contractors.  The second contractor may realize something the first didn't, and competitive bids ordinarily save you a substantial percentage of the price.


How should I run cables through interior wall to garage? Please excuse me if this has been asked before, I searched previous questions but didn't find anything similar...
I have my computer in our garage because of less noise, heat, dust, etc... also it's pretty cool all year, so I'm not worried about heat issues in the garage.
Is it against code (Bozeman, Montana) to run cables through an interior wall to a garage?  How can I do this correctly?
Is there something I could install with/around the cables that would prevent gasses from coming in, etc?
Right now the cables are running inside the wall and in our crawlspace.

It depends what you mean by "cables". As long as it is a data cord (not power) and the opening is fire sealed, it is fine. What I do is use a cutoff saw (hack saw is fine) to cut a length of PVC pipe. Use a hole saw to cut through the drywall. Then, caulk the PVC pipe to the dry wall. It makes a perfectly clean tunnel through the wall. You can feed data cables through this tunnel. There is no code violation for doing this as long as the cables are data cables and you fill the tunnel afterwards with fire proof sealant.

Note that you cannot have any "wall penetration" between a garage and a bedroom, but it appears from your diagram that the adjacent room is not a bedroom.


How to remove smell from new wooden cupboard? There is a distinct "woody" sort of smell from newly purchased wooden cupboards. Is there a way to remove it such that when I open the cupboards, I will not smell this distinct sort of "woody" smell?

It's like new car smell and will go away on its own over time. While you can mask the smell with air freshners, there is nothing I am aware of that will instantly remove the smell. Keeping the doors open for a while will help speed up this process.

Baking soda (like how you'd use it in a fridge) might help a bit too.


Ok to use 3 wire to wire pairs of lights, for pairs of dimmers? I have a room with 9 pairs of halogen lights, currently all wired to one switch, and one circuit. So 18 total lights, with pairs sharing appropriate boxes. This might actually be more then is allowed for 1 circuit, but is for sure more than a single dimmer can handle. I'm resigned to rewiring things, wondering however what I can get away with. Physically distributed in 3x3 pairs, it doesn't ascetically easily break in two, except breaking up each pairs of lights.

Would it be acceptable to use 3 wire in this case? i.e. wire all "left" lights with the black hot, all "right" lights with the red hot, and a common neutral? Side-by-side dimmer switches, and input side of dimmers only with the existing single hot from the panel.

3 wire cable (black, red, white, ground) doesn't give you any additional load capacity unless the wires are on separate circuits and each circuit is on the reverse phase. This is because the neutral is returning all of the current for both hots. This is something you'd likely only see in kitchen outlets to easily run 2 circuits and distribute the load. In other parts of the home, the third wire is usually for running a switched and non-switched power source in the same cable (e.g. an outlet with one half switched.

Can you run two separate dimmers, one on the black, one on the red? I don't see any reason why you couldn't. Double check the packaging on the dimmer switches to see if there are any spacing requirements for heat dissipation. I would go with the deepest J box you can fit in the wall to give yourself lots of space to cram in the wiring. And if the wire holes in the back of the switch clamp via the side screws (rather than spring loaded), I'd use those to reduce any risk of the side screw shorting out with the neighboring switch.

To tell you if you're exceeding the capacity, we'd need to know the wattage for each fixture, wire gauge, breaker amperage, and what else is on the same breaker. This post explains the math and rules of thumb to ensure you don't overload the circuit.


How often should I recaulk the ceramic-tiles in my bathrooms and kitchen? I'm wondering ow often should I recaulk the ceramic-tiles (with silicone) in my bathrooms and kitchen to prevent any water penetration into the walls?

Thanks!

Truly it's not a dumb question. I know I've got kids (3-4) and they can TEAR UP any caulking laid down in a matter of months. For clarification, I am talking 'caulk', the sealant to keep the puddles of water from water-logging and destroying walls/flooring/underpinning etc. in between the tile and bathtub;  grout is a different issue, of course (as others have stated, grout being the 'cement' between and under your tiles, holding them in place).

Back to the silicone, honestly, I have found myself caulking their entire bathroom down only to find it 8-10 months later peeling back/cracking/ missing places... It truly depends on what is going on in said room how often one might wish to reapply/replace. I use a "holy hell, how can this be possible?" sliding scale to determine the NEED for replacement- however, as stated, with the kids and appreciation for puddling up the entire bathroom floor; I make sure there are NO breaks in the seal where water might seep through and cause damage... I'd say a good rule of thumb is if you feel like water (or any amount of moisture) could collect/ make it's way through- it's probably a good idea to knock it out. If it peels/flakes away easy, is receding from either side, starting to crack or chip, etc. there's a good possibility that it can/will allow water damage under- causing MUCH BIGGER issues...
   Much rather do it and not need it than need it and not do it! haha


Switch outlets to permanently hot. Switch to control new recessed lights I have a small room with one switch outlet and 3 Hot outlets on the same circuit. The work is old and ungrounded. I’m looking to make the switched outlet permanantly hot and use the switch location to control 4 new recessed lights. I will be replacing the switch with a dimmer, replacing the outlet with a tamper-resist GFCI. Any help or brief walk through of what to do would be helpful. Here’s the situation:

Switch to the right inside door:

Switched outlet to right of switch

Hot outlet to the right of switched outlet

You are in luck for making the outlet always hot. It looks to be wired as a simple switch loop.

The only change required to make the outlet always hot is to separate the existing wirenut and replace the black on the outlet with the black that was pigtailed.

You hadn't given any details of how you expect the switch location to control the new lights but if it is wireless or you will fish a new cable to the switch you can pigtail white to white and black to black in the outlet location to get a neutral and live to the switch location for power from that circuit. Make sure to remove the electrical tape marker on the white that marked it as a live.


Low toilet water when neighbor flushes Help!!   I live in a condo.  Since my neighbors renovated their downstairs bathroom, which is next to mine,  whenever they flush the water is siphoned out of my toilet bowl.  It never happened before.  I spoke to them twice about it, asking that they call the installer to see if it was properly installed, but I got no where.
I called our condo management who had their plumber come. He checked the line and removed a big clog, but said that the vent was clear.
They are telling me that now I need to get a new toilet because the neighbors toilet is the new efficiency model with a strong flush,  yet they told me that may not make a difference. I can't understand why I would have to put in a new toilet because my neighbor renovated???   And to be told it may not solve the problem anyway.  This makes no sense to me.
I still feel their toilet was improperly installed, but of course I have no proof of that.
I'm concerned about the water getting so low that sewer gases may come into my unit!  Please help!

I'm with Mr Stewart on this one. I have no doubt, a vent has been disconnected.

You are correct in assuming their remodel, no matter what toilet they use, should never affect the performance of your toilet. That's a ridiculous suggestion.


How can I make sure my pex line is sloped so I can drain it? I'm running a cold-water pex line in a basement crawlspace that gets extremely cold (i.e. freezing) in the winter.

I'm going to use a drainable ball-valve inside the house so I can drain it in the winter but how can I run the pex line to make sure it's sloped?  The run is about 25 feet long.

I think I have two options:

1) Run it through floor joists (requires a hole in every joist since my line is running perpendicular to them)

2) Run it under the joists and use clamps and wood shims under each joist to achieve a slope.

I'm leaning towards #1 but to make sure I have a good slope I think I'll need to measure my holes to make sure the line is actually sloping.  For example, I thought I would measure a certain distance from the joist to the floor above to make sure my holes are actually sloping down.

Any other suggestions?

(NOTE: This question is sort-of a follow-up to this:  Do I need to angle/pitch pex tubing for draining in the winter?)

Thanks!

If you have an air compressor you can plumb in a connector for an air line after the shuttoff valve for the line.

Then leave the faucet open at the end of the line and connect the air compressor with a pressurized tank. This will blow out the line and prevent freezing.

Good luck!


Antique headboard and footbard with iron frame I have an antique headboard and footboard along with the one piece iron frame that attaches to it.  Problem is that when you attach the frame to the head and footboards, the "L" shape is upside down so there's no way to use slats or to secure the mattress in the bed. I can't turn the frame upside down because the holes in the frame and the bed wouldn't align properly (there's also a small nodule on the frame that fits into the head and footboards).  Any help/suggestions/advice will be greatly appreciated. I used this bed in a former home but that was over 30 years ago and I just can't remember how it was set up!

It sounds like you have the rails swapped. Right on left and upside down. Try moving them to the opposite side and turned top to bottom I think you will find they fit that way and hold the slats in place.


Proper way to join PVC pipes to brass ball valve I'm using the following fitting to join PVC pipes to the brass valve, my concern is that the recommended 3-8 wraps of teflon tape and finger tight plus 1-2 turns didn't cut it. I end up using about 20 wraps of tape and I probably turn it a bit more using a wrench and now no leaks whatsoever.

Is there a different way to join brass and PVC pipes? This is a permanent installation (I can't even unscrew it without cutting the pipes), can I have any problems with it the way it was done?

This is the standard method of attaching PVC pipe to threaded fittings. More turns and less tape. Pipe threads are tapered, in my experience 1-2 turns past hand tight is not nearly enough (and I generally only use 3 turns of Teflon tape).

Make sure that your brass ball valve is not cracked, brass is fairly soft and I have seen the threaded part of brass valves crack longitudinally due to over-tightening, especially with some of the cheap thin imported crap valves these days.

If you want to be able to unscrew it later without cutting the pipes, install a union.


In a gangbox with switches on two different circuits, how can I identify which neutrals are associated with which circuit? By 'two different circuits,' I mean 'two separate single-pole breakers'.

Here is a crude wiring diagram of the switches and electrical box in question:

https://i.imgur.com/yefrWHx.png

The red things are wire nuts.
The black ovals (1-6) are knockouts.
Circuit X:

Switch A is a single-pole switch that controls 4 outdoor lights.
Switch B is a 4-way switch that controls 2 ceiling light fixtures (along with 2 other switches).
May also have 1 outdoor outlet, but I forgot to check.

Circuit Y:

Switch C is a 3-way switch that controls half of an outlet (along with 1 other switch).
Also has 4.5 'always-on' outlets.

The pink wires in the diagram are white in reality.
The black connected to Switch A is the hot.
The pink (white) wires never measure a voltage, regardless of any switch's state.
I have a very basic 2-probe voltage tester (like this), but no continuity tester.
Everything functions correctly.

What is the easiest way to figure out:

If the pink (white) wires are indeed neutrals?
If they are associated with Circuit X or Circuit Y?
What the orange wire is? (Possibly neutral for the other circuit?)

Are the breakers adjacent?  If so, you're probably looking at a multi-wire branch circuit which should--but doesn't--have an approved tie-bar device between the two breakers, and which would use one neutral for both sides of the circuit.

Multi-wire branch circuits are safe when both branches are powered and when both branches are off.  They can in some cases be dangerous if one side is powered and the other isn't.

If this isn't multi-wire branch circuit wiring, I doubt that it's safe at all.  It appears that black and blue are two hot wires entering from #5, which has one neutral return.  If black and blue are anti-phase, as in a multi-wire branch circuit, the maximum current on the neutral will be the difference between the current on the black and blue wires, so the neutrals cannot be overloaded without tripping a breaker.  If they're not wired anti-phase, however, the current on the neutral wire will be the sum of the currents on the black and blue wires.  If devices on each circuit are drawing 20A, the current in the neutral wire will be 40A--dangerously overloaded.


Securing two sections of 'floating' molding together and to wall There is no wall stud behind the ends of these two sections of molding. (Otherwise, of course, I would use nails.)
The surface behind them is painted gypsum wall board.
The molding on the right is reasonably secure; however, I suspect that if I rely on it to hold the left molding against the wall it will be pulled away from the wall.

More information:

I can replace the piece of molding on the right to eliminate the gap.
Both pieces are installed on the same section of flat wall.
The trim material is MDF.
I doubt I have the skill the remove the right piece of trim without breaking it. I haven't enough of this material left to replace it.
Most important: I'm referring to the fact that there's a gap between the wall and the molding on the left but not between the wall and the molding on the right.

Questions:

Is there an adhesive that would hold the left stick of molding to the painted surface behind it?
Is there some form of mechanical fastener that would work?

Thanks for your help, including better ideas.

I added some comments to get clarity on the solution, so I'm going to answer with some generic options you could combine or use individually based on your particular solution. These are roughly sorted "best to worst" in terms of my preference for creating the best finished look.

Remove and discard the piece on the left. If the wall behind it is not flat, replace it with a flexible molding (ie flexible polyurethane molding) - attach to the wall with construction adhesive and nails to hold in place until the adhesive cures.
If the gap is because it's too short, replace it with a correctly sized piece.
If you can remove both pieces but don't want to replace either, or the above options don't sound ideal, remove both pieces. Assuming they're wood or another material that will hold screws, use a pocket screw or two in the back of the pieces to hold that seam tightly together. Reinstall as if it was one single piece of molding.
Easiest, but ugliest: Leave as-is. Use paintable latex caulk to hide the seam. Paint afterwards.

Edited to add, based on your edit above: If you don't want to remove the pieces, there won't be much you can do. Construction adhesive (common brand: Liquid Nails) may hold it down but it will be challenging to get it in there without removing the piece from the wall. Similarly, if you had that piece off, you could put a drywall anchor in the wall, then use a trim screw to hold the piece down. You mentioned the trim is mdf, which doesn't hold fasteners well, so the pocket screw idea is out (although that would require the pieces to be off the wall as well.)

In short: Without removing or replacing the pieces, there may not be much to do other than try your best to hide it with painter's caulk.


How to make a house that tolerates condensation Where I live, it's humid outside all fall, winter, and spring, and hovers around 45 deg F. Combined with indoor cooking, showering, etc., we always get a lot condensation on our windows. Rot & mildew love it here.

What can we do in the design & construction of a house to make it so this humidity, and the resulting condensation, don't cause rot & mildew around the windows or elsewhere?

(I know I can vent kitchen & in the bathroom, and I can install a dehumidifier. That's not this question.)

What you need to do is to keep the surfaces that moist air will touch warm so the condensation won't form in the first place.

So, for windows that means installing double glazing so that the interior pane is the same temperature as the room and the outside pane can be a lot colder.

For walls it's harder - but installing cavity wall insulation (assuming you have a cavity!) will help, as would installing insulated plasterboard (dry wall).

You won't get rid of 100% of the condensation, but you should be able to get rid of a lot - especially if you do make the improvements to the ventilation in the house.

You can improve the ventilation, but ideally you want to remove the moisture without removing the warmth so simply fitting a vent in an exterior wall to give the moist air somewhere to go isn't ideal. You can get heat exchangers that will take the warm, stale/moist air and transfer the heat to the incoming cold, fresh/dry air.


Can't get switch and lights to work I am renting an old apartment that definitely wasn't wired by a professional. The other day the two light in my livingroom went out. My boyfriend is a industrial electrician, and he seems to be stumped. The switch appeared to be a 3 way, I can find 2 other switches that have the same wiring, but they have never worked. When we finally got around to exploring the junction box(where on of the lights is located) it turned into a mess. The current set up keeps the light on, but there is no power to the switch. Please help!

Put it back, call the landlord

Two things are true anytime electrical work is done on an apartment.

The work must be done by an electrician with an actual license.
The landlord must give permission for the work to be done.

The landlord doesn't have a choice, the electricians only rule is not waivable.   And any smart landlord catching someone working on electrical would evict them and charge them to have their electrician inspect/fix everything in the apartment. All pre-existing faults would be blamed on your tampering, and what could you say?

One thing about electricians is they have the tools and know-how to "ring out" wires. They can find out where the wires go, and if they are broken.

That's the first thing I would think he would do, identify wires and cables.  Not a simple or easy job.

But this isn't going to work; him working the problem and you looking over his shoulder and asking us. You won't be able to give us the information specific enough to solve the problem, so it will amount to commisseration, and that's better done with friends.   Second, where would this go?  If you look over his shoulder and say to him "try ringing out the travelers", he may have some questions about where that came from.

Really, the person who is actually working the problem should be asking such questions, and you may have heard this too often in your life but in this case, you are better off leaving that to a licensed electrician owing to the "electricians only" law.


What portable light dimmer to use for cieling lights? I'm throwing a party and I can't go and change all of the light switches because the house is already finished. But I want to be able to dim the lights; is there a portable light dimmer that will work on ceiling lights without me having to go and re-due the electrical work?

Yes, the Philips Hue and competitors.  They are smart bulbs you control with your smartphone and possibly a hub you put at a receptacle.  They screw right in, no fuss, no bother.


Is it possible to reduce internal window reflection? At night, my windows reflect the room and obscure the outside view. Is there a way to reduce the reflectiveness of the windows?

There are things such as anti-reflective/anti-glare film that many storefronts, counter displays use to increase see through. It's not often used privately though.

One example is this: https://www.ssidisplays.com/anti-glare-film-window-displays/

I'd try asking somewhere they sell glass for windows-panes or whole windows.

Just remember, it's very limited how much it would work with a lighted room, at night, looking out into the dark. Try lowering the light intensity in the room a bit as well, possibly. That could be done with a bulb of lower wattage.


For increasing shower pressure, Mixer or thermostatic valve? I all, I'm looking to purchase a new shower for my combi boiler and am looking to maximise water pressure output.

I'd like to know what one produces better water pressure? Mixer based or TRV controlled showers?

And are there any after market products that can boost the water pressure for a combi boiler system? Many Thanks

Neither of those should have a noticeable impact on water pressure, that's up to your bladder tank, or the line pressure from the utility.

You may consider using a more efficient showerhead, which typically reduce flow, but increase pressure. Unless you're trying to fill buckets in your shower, this will probably be your best bet.


Timber Retaining Wall - Beam Replacement I need to replace a rotted beam in a wood retaining wall (bottom beam in picture).  Is it possible to simply slide a replacement beam in place?  Also, what about inserting a plastic lining (to the extent possible) to further protect.

It might not be that simple. Many wood retaining walls use nails or rebar to lock each tier with the one below. You will likely have to remove them from the top-down, but you probably need to anyway. If that one is rotten all the way to the exterior, the others are likely almost as rotten.

I recommend taking it apart completely, removing what needs replaced, and staining/sealing everything (new repairs and old beams) with a good exterior sealant, and building it back up.


Any way to do a mitered corner without a table saw? I want to use some left over wood from a table i did to build a 1ft^3 storage box to use in the living room.

The wood has a beautiful pattern but it is plywood so i do not want to expose the edges.

Is there any way to accomplish the 45 degree cuts on the edges without a table saw?

something like this:

Your circular saw should be able to cut the 45 degree angle, there should be a lever to allow you to tilt the plate thus tilting the bade.   Something like this

Then to get a Straight cut you need a guide along one edge. You need something longer than the piece you are cutting and wide enough to clamp it to it and have enough room to run the saw along the edge for a straight cut.  Something like this, although this is a special clamp guide, you could just use something a bit wider with some other clamps.


NM-B vs THHN amp capacity? I was at a big-box home improvement store recently and saw this wire type vs amperage rating chart:

Up through 10ga all the copper wires have the same rating but then they start to diverge. I am particularly surprised that there is a different between NM-B cable and THHN wires... don't NM-B cables use THHN wires as the individual conductors?

According to this chart even alumnium wire has higher capacities than NM-B for most sizes.

And what do you use for a wire that has multiple ratings, like THHN/THWN? Do you use the higher value or the lower value?

Can anyone explain these numbers?

The current carrying capacity of wire and cable is determined by (1) the heat produced due to conductor resistance, (2) the high temperature limit of the insulation used, and (3) the surroundings of the wire to the degree it traps heat in the insulator (everything such as insulation thickness, conduit, proximity to a hot roof, etc.).  Items (1) and (2) are characteristics of the wire.  Item (3) is a characteristic of both the wire and the installation.

Even though the wires within NM-B cable are THHN wire and have insulation rated for 90 degrees C, many versions of the code, including 2011 NEC Section 334-80, limit ampacity of non-metalic cables such as NM-B to no more than that permitted with an insulation rated for 60 degrees C (probably due to heat retention by the thick outer PVC jacket, although they do not explicitly say that is the reason):

  334.80 Ampacity. The ampacity of Types NM, NMC, and NMS cable shall be determined in accordance with 310.15. The allowable ampacity shall not
  exceed that of a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor. The 90°C (194°F) rating
  shall be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustment and correction
  calculations, provided the final derated ampacity does not exceed that
  of a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor. The ampacity of Types NM, NMC, and
  NMS cable installed in cable tray shall be determined in accordance
  with 392.80(A).

The code goes on to explicitly describe how the cable must additionally be de-rated for the installation (multiple cables in one conduit, multiple adjacent cables in an insulated wall, etc, etc.)

The differences in ampacity are all about the effect of heat on the insulation.  Regarding multiple ampacities for a single wire type, there is always an asterisk somewhere describing the particular instance where the wire is to be used and which ampacity is applicable in that case.


How to seal small cracks in wood door? We have a solid-core wooden front-door and would like to repaint it as our dog has scratched it many times (ahh the joys of pet ownership). We've sanded down the rough spots on the door but we noticed some hair-line cracks in the groove between the panel and the mullion.

The cracks aren't large enough to affect the structural integrity of the door but we're thinking that we'll need to seal it before proceeding with applying the paint. We can't sand it because the crack is in an awkward location on the mullion.

What can we use to seal small cracks? Caulk? Wood Epoxy?

-M

Caulk or a paintable frame sealant would work.

We've used the latter on our Victorian doors to fill gaps between mouldings the body of the door where the wood has shrunk over the years.

Make sure you don't overdo it and smooth down the sealant with a damp cloth or finger straight away. This will push the sealant all the way into the gap.


Replacing oven element The element in my oven died. I bought a new one and removed the old one only to find out I received the wrong element. When I went to put the old element back in the wires dislodged some on the insulation. Now I'm afraid that the insulation my catch fire when I install the new element. Is there anything I can do to make sure that where the element connection goes in the oven, it won't touch the insulation and cause a fire?

Your insulation on the wire may touch the element and melt back but I have never seen it burn. The big deal to watch out for is no loose wires that could touch the side of the oven. That could cause an arc and damage both the wire and oven. If the wire is covered (with just a few strands of the insulation loose) I would use it.

Remember the first time you heat it up don't put any food in as the element needs to outgass anything that may still be on it from the production process. After 5 minutes at 350 air out the oven and you should be good to go.


In what order should I complete these projects? We would like to complete the following projects on our home.  Assume we cannot afford more than one at a time, so they must be completed sequentially.

Add electrical outlets outside ( we have some currently )
Add faucets outside ( we have some currently )
Replace windows and doors
New roof
New siding
Replace gutters
Convert an existing deck to 3 season ( deck currently attached to house )
Create new deck attached to the house

We are likely to go with vinyl siding.  From what I've observed locally, it is typical to also add a 1" thick foam board before adding the new siding.  Given that, I suspect there will be "issues" due to the increased thickness of the siding.

So, should the siding happen BEFORE the outlets, faucets, windows, doors, and deck work, so the thickness can be accounted for properly?

What order makes the most sense and why?

EDIT - Current status of various items

Roof is 23 years old, no leaks that I"m aware of, lots of sand in the gutters
Gutters are also 23 years old, some leak, some sag
Siding is 23 years old, I believe it is "hardie plank", painted in 2005
Windows and doors also 23 years old, feels "breezy" in the Winters, don't seem to seal tightly
Deck is at least 16 years old, structurally sound, but could probably use a new railing

1. New roof.
If you've got a leaky roof, you've got big problems.
2. New Siding.
Since it sounds like you'll be adjusting the thickness of the walls, it makes sense to complete this job before anything else that will be installed on/in the wall.
3. New Gutters.
Depending on what shape the gutters are in, this might move up or down the list.  If they are in fairly poor shape (leaking, sagging, etc.), they should be addressed sooner rather than later.
4. Replace Windows and Doors.
Assuming this is not simply an aesthetic upgrade, new windows and doors can increase the homes efficiency making it an important upgrade.
The Others
The rest of the items on the list are convenience items, and can be done in any order (assuming the deck is not causing damage to the house).