Which way to unscrew the behind part of the v pipe? I am trying to remove the pipe bellow my bathroom sink to clean it (clogged).
I made loose the facing screw but I can't the behind one. The one in the red square.
I am not sure which way is the correct way to turn so I am not trying too much in order to avoid any damage.
How can I unloose it in an easy and safe way?

You can often determine the whether the threading is right or left handed by looking closely at the first thread between the edge of the fitting. Your picture is not clear enough to tell this from the photo but this shows where to look.

That said it is a pretty good guess that you would turn as shown below to remove. This is the conventional direction for the most often used right hand threads.


Do I NEED to remove the wood trim to sand and re-stain it? I have 108 year old original wood trim throughout my house. Due to a roof leak last February, three rooms on my first floor need to have most of the (also 108 year old) plaster walls removed and replaced because it is moldy (inside the wall).  I am doing the demo myself (see my other post here) and have decided to try to keep the original wood. Partly because I want to keep costs down, partly because of the character of it, partly because I have read enough answers here that condemn folks who paint or otherwise destroy perfectly good hardwood and now feel too guilty to consider that alternative.

My plan was to remove all the wood downstairs and strip it and re-stain it.  Since this wood 1) has been subjected to lead paint removal (at least), and 2) is old, I figured this would require a delicate touch, and the use of a chemical stripper since I doubt it can stand up to any rough sanding. I want it all to match because I HATE that it doesn't right now (most is a hideous honey gold, some is a dark 80's fake wood paneling brown).

Now that I've tried to remove some of the crown moldings (not really! its actually picturing hanging rail someone butt up against the ceiling) and it is splintering into bits no matter how gentle I am, nor how much I plead with the patron saint of DIY.  I did the whole room that is getting gutted entirely, and I only have enough to put 40% back up.

So, my new plan is to only remove as much as I have to and try to stain the rest in place.  Is this possible? Is this what I should have planned to do in the first place?  Obviously, I've never attempted to stain anything more (important) than my 8th grade woodworking project. Another reason I wanted to do it in the garage-in case I make a big freakin' mess.

Should I just forget it and just get all new wood?  This would solve my other problem - attempting to match the old pattern (am I using the right word there?) - but would create a problem in the budget department.

If there are alternatives I haven't mentioned here-feel free to pitch me a softball...I need help, and needless to say, no one I know is handy, has good taste, and/or owns a house and understands the stakes. My fate is in your (collective) hands! No pressure. ;-)

We have a similarly old house, and I can say, if you are patient, stripping, sanding, and refinishing can be done in place.  We have done casing trim, and baseboards in place, but chose to remove the window apron to refinish that.  For grooves, look into dentist picks to pull any paint.

For sanding, use odd shapes of scrap with sandpaper adhered to it.


Wiring a rocker switch with pilot light so light is on when switch is off I have a single switch with a pilot light next to a two-function switch in a double gang box. They are both used to control a three function fan/light/night light in a bathroom.

Everything is working fine, except the pilot light in the single function switch is on when the light is on, rather than when it is off, which seems like the point of the pilot light.

Did I do something wrong?

You have a pilot light switch. Some are on when the circuit is on, others are on when the circuit is off and some can be set either way. It sounds like what you want is an illuminated switch, one that guides you to the switch in the dark so you can turn it on.

While some pilot light switches can do that (and yours might), the simple illuminated switches generally look better, and the toggle itself is usually glowing.

Links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of products or sources.


Replacing rusted steel post with 6 x 6 x 6 pressure treated lumber I have a finished sun porch that is resting on 4 - 4" X 6' round steel post.

The base of these post were buried under dirt for several years and have rusted. A couple of the post have about a 1" hole near the base plate.  I tried to get this fixed professionally, but the estimates have come in around $3500 to replace the existing steel posts.

I was wondering if I could replace these using 6" X 6" x 6' pressure treated lumber.
 The porch is 12' x 13', glassed in with a roof and tile floor, so I am assuming that it weighs quit a lot.

Will the pressure treated lumber withstand the weight?

Just wanted to says thanks for the advice.  I was able to replace all the steel post successfully and without too much trouble.  I did build 2' deep piers for each post, 8 inches in diameter.   Each pier took two bags of 50lbs concrete. On these I places a 6x6 post base with bolt secured into the concrete.I use a jack to slightly raise the porch floor so I could remove the existing post and install the new ones.  Taking my time I did each post one at a time.

Final result:


Does it make sense to apply a (Minwax) wax paste on top of a polyurethane/stain finish? I have just finished a piece of wood that I intend to use as a writing/work desk with a polyurethane stain. I've seen some talk of it possibly being a good idea to apply a coat of rub-on paste wax on top of the poly finish. Has anyone else done this? Does it work? In what circumstances is it a good idea? What is the result?

You can wax it if you like, but it is not needed. The only time I would add wax if in the case there is slight imperfections like dust in the finish, and you would like a smoother finish. Wet sand the top with 400G wet sandpaper and work it up to 600 then 800. Then apply the paste wax. The trick will be is, if you have enough finish to do this much wet sanding. I do this with lacquer finishes but there are 3 or more coats in place to work with. This leaves a glass smooth surface when done, but it leaves a matte/satin sheen.

There are tutorials on "rubbing out" finishes online. This is where I picked up on this.


Well pressure gauge reads 0 PSI So to begin, we have a deep submersible well pump. We noticed that our water pressure was getting weaker and weaker. At first I believe it was because of the well house not being properly insulated causing a freeze. I came to this conclusion because we started having water issues when it started to get really cold out and the well pressure would be at its lowest during the coldest parts of the night. After a few days of the pressure weakening, I decided to reinsulate everything. Even after that, still no luck. At this point, we have no water coming into the house. I realized the pump wasn't turning on and was causing a humming sound near the control box. I opened it up and saw a burnt "relay/contactor". Once I replaced it, viola, we had water again. But this time, the pressure gauge was reading 0 PSI. Even tho we are getting decent water pressure to the house. The water pressure was noticeably weaker then before the freeze.

My main concern is, what could cause the relay to get burnt out like that? Is my pressure gauge faulty? I just want to be able to care for my well proactively before something bad and expensive happens.

good job at getting it running again. I have seen contactors fail in a short period of time when the pressure tank bladder failed also if there is a starting capicator in that control box it can be failing causing the above problems with wiring and contactors, As for the pressure gauge these are bordon tube gauges a bent hollow tube filled with water, the gauge works because the outside of the tube has a different force than the inside once the gauge freezes it usually distorts the gauge to the point it won't work, so it is time for a new gauge. You should be looking into the start / run capacitor that may be the root cause of the damage to the contactor/ wiring .


Is it OK to create a third prong ground from a cold water pipe, for a 2-wire circuit? When or is it NEC code compliant to upgrade a 2-wire circuit, by adding a third prong equipment ground from a nearby cold water pipe?

A different case of borrowing a ground from a nearby circuit is covered at: Is it OK to borrow a ground wire from a different circuit? (the short answer is it's now OK in the USA).

I am aware that this method of grounding was once common.  However a water pipe ground is subject to issues in future partial re-plumbing, which may involve isolating pipe with a dielectric union:

When or is it NEC code compliant to upgrade a 2-wire circuit, by adding a third prong equipment ground from a nearby galvanized cold water pipe?

Never!

Article 250.118 of the National Electrical Code lists the approved methods of equipment grounding. Water piping systems are NOT listed there.

Metal piping systems within buildings are required to be bonded to the electrical grounding system to prevent them from becoming energized. They are not used AS an equipment grounding conductor for circuits.

Spend the time, effort, and money to run a separate equipment ground back to the service panel or to another circuit with a ground as you cited in the other example.

Good luck!


Do I need to use any wood protector for my deck? I bought my house 5-6 months ago and I think they made a new deck but I don't think so they used any protector etc. Seems like they installed and didn't do anything else, during winter time water was sitting in the deck and color got a little bit different now.

Can I use Thompson's Water Seal?

Would be enough if I use 1 gallon?

How often should I reapply?

Here some photos

https://ibb.co/b5xDao

https://ibb.co/jEkS1T

https://ibb.co/hgS1T8

Thank you

Some wood species hold up well outdoors even without a surface treatment (like cedar and redwood). I can't tell by the photos what type of wood your deck is made of. That being said, it certainly would not hurt to treat it. It would help stabilise the the color and protect the wood.

The type of coating is up to you, but my preference wood be a high quality semi-transparent stain. The amount you need depends on size and various other factors, follow the directions on the can.


In which spaces can small-appliance branch circuits have "No Other Outlets"? Goal: Understanding the NEC code language for practical DIY application.

All occurrences of the phrase "no other outlets" related to a house (not an RV) in the NEC 2017 are:

  210.11 Branch Circuits Required.

  ...(C) Dwelling Units.

  ...(1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by 210.52(B).

  ...(2) Laundry Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one additional 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply the laundry receptacle outlet(s) required by 210.52(F). This circuit shall  have no other outlets.

  ...(3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply the bathroom(s) receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall have no other outlets.

  ...(4) Garage Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be installed to supply receptacle outlets in attached garages and in detached garages with electric power. This circuit shall have no other outlets.

  210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. This section provides requirements for 125-volt, 15- and 20-ampere receptacle outlets. [...]

  ...(A) General Provisions. In every kitchen, family room, dining room, living room, parlor, library, den, sunroom, bedroom, recreation room, or similar room or area of dwelling units, receptacle outlets shall be installed in accordance with the general provisions specified in 210.52(A)(1) through (A)(4) [about spacing etc].

  ...(B) Small Appliances.

  ...(1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.

  ...(2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets.

  625.40 Electric Vehicle Branch Circuit. Each outlet installed for the purpose of charging electric vehicles shall be supplied by an
  individual branch circuit. Each circuit shall have no other outlets.

These texts confuse me: 210.52(B)(2) applies to the branch circuits of 210.52(B)(1). In turn, 210.52(B)(1) initially includes (something like) only food-related areas, but then extends to receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), which includes almost the whole house including the mentioned food areas except, roughly, the pantry and breakfast room.

Questions:

Why is it written like this? What is the intent?
To which spaces/areas does the "No Other Outlet" of 210.52(B)(2) requirement apply?

Example dilemma:

Let's take a new bedroom:

Interpretation 1: This bedroom, INcluding all of its wall receptacle outlets, is covered in 210.52(A). Hence, 210.52(B)(1), by referring to 210.52(A), does require all bedroom wall receptacles to be served by one or more "20A small appliance branch circuits". So no other outlets are allowed.

Interpretation 2: This bedroom, EXcluding all of its wall receptacle outlets, is covered in 210.52(A) (so just the abstract room space; its receptacle outlets are not explicitly mentioned). Hence, 210.52(B)(1), by referring to 210.52(A), does not require all bedroom wall receptacles to be served by one or more "20A small appliance branch circuits". So other outlets are allowed.

Which interpretation is correct?

Related posts:

What does “No Other Outlets” mean for a kitchen 20A branch circuit?

210.52(A) defines a scope of dwelling units
Consider a well-developed outdoor barbecue area.  It has a BBQ, a double sink, some countertops, maybe some other outdoor-rated appliances, etc.
Consider an office "break room" area with a reasonably competent kitchenette.
Consider a commercial restaurant's waitress alcove/island area, where salads are made, coffee is brewed, soups are doled out, etc.
All of these are out-of-scope for 210.52(A).  What Code is saying is that 210.52(B) does not apply in these locations; it only applies where 210.52(A) applies, i.e. inside dwelling units.

No Other Outlets is being overloaded to have 2 meanings at once.
You have to carefully read the context.
"No other outlets" as applicable to the mandatory circuit.
Take a garage.  You have a grandfathered garage with a 15A receptacle, opener and light circuit.  You develop the garage attic into an ADU, which voids the grandfathering and now the garage must be brought up to 2017 Code.  That requires one garage circuit, and and that one garage circuit may have no other outlets (i.e. they must all be in the garage).  However, Code is silent on existence of any other garage circuits. Those may exist and may serve other outlets.   So the 15A circuit can stay, and provide supplemental service beyond the mandatory.
"No other outlets" as applicable to every receptacle.
Take a kitchen.  Say you already have a 15A kitchen recep circuit that serves there, and outdoor outlet and a hallway outlet.  You must have at least two 20A kitchen recep circuits.  What about the 15A?  Nope, 210.52(B)(1) says "shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets".  That means every wall and floor recep outlet must be on one of those covered 20A circuits, which due to (B)(2) must be dedicated.  So that means the 15A circuit must stop supplying kitchen receps. It cannot be an optional third circuit.


How do I stabilize power to my PC from an erratic power supply? An erratic power supply with low voltage particularly at night exists in my area (in India).The UPS tag tells a 220v/50Hz which I know not what. It does not tell about any amp marking. Can I use a voltage stabilizer for that ? If so of what kind or type?

You could use a voltage stabilizer, but it makes little sense to do so.

Almost all UPSs are specifically designed to work with dirty power sources.  The UPS working range is probably as good, if not better, than any comparable stabilizer in the same power range and price class.

It would be more cost effective to replace the UPS with a model which has a wider input range than to add a stabilizer.  This also means there are half as many things to fail.


Using dirt to grade away from foundation. Good idea or not? A reputable/recommended house inspector suggested that we can just pile up dirt to create a grade that will prevent water from collecting around our foundation.  We have a crawl space so the dirt will basically be against the outer wall of the crawlspace. He suggested putting dirt against this outer wall.

We live in Los Angeles so we don't get that much rain.

My concern that if the dirt is against the wall, won't this just trap the moisture and keep the wall wet?

Is his advice sound or should I look for alternate solutions?

I live in a very wet climate and that is exactly what we do. Often, the level of the dirt on the outside of the foundation is higher than the level of the dirt on the inside. This is acceptable as long as the soil slopes away from the house on all sides. (Yes, the outer surface of the crawl space wall will be wet/damp, but it would be wet in a rain storm too and this moisture will evaporate...especially in LA.) When we have problems is when one side slopes down to the house and then the "surface" water wants to "stand" (puddle) against the foundation wall and eventually seep into the crawl space.

I think your Inspector is correct. (If you have a basement, then things are different, but you said crawl space.)


Rigid foam board expansion I’m installing extruded polystyrene rigid foam board over my exterior sheathing. I got a little behind schedule and now the temps have dropped to the 30s (Fahrenheit). Do I need to allow for the foam to expand in warmer weather? How big of gaps should I leave (if any) on the seams and the edges? I don’t want it to distort my siding when we get back into the 90s next summer.

You should be safe to leave a gap of ~3/16", based on the coefficient of thermal expansion in the table here (https://insulationcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/ICA-LITE_Spec_Sheet.pdf). With a value of 35x10e-6in/in per deg F, assuming a 100deg maximum temperature delta x 48" wide piece-> 0.000035*100*48=0.168". This would assume 100deg from your install temperature I believe... so 1/8" may be more appropriate @30deg (F).

You should look-up and find your particular mfr/model spec sheet to find a similar table for the product you plan to install, and perform the calculation for it.


Hanging a 65" flat screen tv I want to hang the tv above the fireplace. I was able to remove the paneling on the side of the fireplace what I found was the 2 out side 2x4 were mounted on edge but the other 3 were mounted flat, this is over a 6' span. Will the flat 2x4 be able to hold the tv

You will not have problems mounting the TV if it is under 150 lbs and into 2 or more studs.  Use proper screws and mounting system/plates.


Can my cabinet lights be operated with a dimmable switch? The previous homeowner underwent a kitchen remodel and cabinet lighting was installed. I did a “Google” search for what I think is the model number listed on the back side of the unit but came up short - see picture. The manufacturer is Nasun and I believe the model number is WFL701A3W

According to the instructions, yes, they are "suitable for switch dimmer for dimming function".
No promises as to how well they will actually work with any particular dimmer.


Hooking up a NEMA 6-30p heater to a 6-50r socket I'm renting a garage, and it gets too cold in the winter to work comfortably. I ordered an electric 30 Amp rated space heater but realized that I have a 50 Amp, NEMA 6-50r receptacle. Obviously I cannot just use a straight-through adapter or different plug because that would defeat the safety of the expected 30 Amp breaker circuit. However, would it be safe to create an adapter where it goes from a 6-50p pigtail, into a circuit breaker box with a 30 Amp breaker, which is wired to a NEMA 6-30r receptacle? All this would be using properly sized wire and grounding of course. Being a rented space, I don't want to be installing any permanent fixtures.

Yes.  Your plan will absolutely work, and be safe.  Make sure you properly use flexible cable (likely SOOW) with the breaker box you put together, and consider strain relief where the cable exits the box.

However, the cheaper route you mentioned, isn't as dangerous as you think.....

Consider any device you plug into a normal 15amp outlet.  Very often, the circuit, and breaker are 20amp, even when the outlet has a  15 amp style receptacle.  Say you're plugging in a cellphone charger.  It needs 0.1 amp.  Yet your circuit breaker exposes it to 200 times that!  Omg let's freak out and build a special subpanel at the outlet to provide a breaker appropriate for the cell phone charger.  Wait.  Nobody does that.

Plugging a 30 amp device into a 50 amp outlet is no worse than plugging a 0.1 amp device into a 15 amp outlet.  Just change the plug and be done with it.

But if you enjoy building sub panels, enjoy this project!  If you build a special sub panel just for this, you should consider adding 20 amp breakers and outlets to it also.  Could end up being super convenient to have.


Why is there a wire through the top ears of a clock outlet? I found an outlet hidden behind a clock, and the way someone mounted it is baffling.

Why would someone do this, and what is the best way to undo it?

I can think of two possible reasons for the hack.

The top screw holding the receptacle to the electrical box stripped out.
They used the brilliant scheme as a way to provide a hook to hang the clock.

I have to guess that there was also no cover plate on this outlet behind the clock.

To undo this will require a number of steps.

First off shut off power at the breaker/fuse panel for this circuit.
Use a needle nose pliers to bend and twist the top side loops till they break off the screw tab on the outlet. These normally come off easily as they are pre-scored.
Remove the two straight slotted screws that hold the outlet in place.
Pull the outlet out away from the wall. (This step to help prevent the brittle looking outlet from getting broken).
Use a hammer, pry bar and/or pliers to hold and work the staple down out of the wall.
Now evaluate the outlet. Now would be a good time to replace it if the bakelite/plastic looks brittle or if the contacts do not hold a plug securely. New ones are low cost.
Push the outlet back into position.
Reinstall the two retaining screws.
Apply spackle to patch the holes where the staple went into the wall.
Patch paint the area above the outlet when the spackle has dried.
Install a new cover plate over the outlet.
Turn the power back on at the breaker/fuse panel.
Rehang the clock if it is a treasured antique heirloom.


What could be causing the humming sound in my hot water radiator? The cold weather is here and yet again I have the same problem: humming radiators.

I have done a lot of web searching and forum reading and not found any solution.

The system is an oil burning furnace which heats a two-story house with a single zone by hot water. There is a circulator pump. Sometimes when the system is running a medium-pitched hum occurs which seems to be coming from several of the upstairs radiators, but it is hard to tell because it is a very ethereal hum.

It has nothing to do with air in the radiators. I have bled them and it makes no difference.

One thing is that the hum is much more noticeable since some work was done on the radiator a couple of years ago. I think all they did was replace the oil pump (not the circulator).

How can I figure what is causing the hum and fix it.

Sometimes the circulating pump moves too much water and causes noise and vibration. Years ago when I was doing residential service and most pumps were single speed I carried cut down impellers just to fix this problem. Most pumps back then were from Bell and Gossett. Today there are numerous fixes. take the name brand of the pump, the model number and serial number of the pump, (a picture may also be a good idea) to a local hvac shop that services hot water systems. They can look up the flow from a chart and recommend what to do: a cut down impeller, smaller pump,  a multispeed pump etc. This should fix the hum or vibration.


How to open up the overflow drain cover of a massage bathtub? Our massage bathtub was installed by the previous owner.
I want to snake bathtub through the overflow drain to unclog the drain. But its cover is kind of unique. I couldn't find any instruction online.

Can anyone kindly shed some light on this? Thanks.

Contact American Standard. I've seen images online that show they have tubs with this type of overflow. They should be able to advise you.
Also it looks as if you don't have any caulking around the edge of the tile joining the bathtub. It would be a really good idea to run some silicone caulking around that edge. Make sure it's silicone and you can get it in clear. If you're not used to using silicone it can be kind of messy when using it.


How to find leak in a hot tub I have a hot tub that I know is leaking.  The water level keeps dropping, and it always stops at the same spot.  The challenge is that there are 5 jets at the level where the water stops dropping, so I figure one of those is the problem, however after taking the sides off the tub, I see that the entire shell is encased in spray foam insulation covering almost all the plumbing.

Is there a trick to finding the source of my leak without having to rip apart all the insulation around my tub?

I've had this problem and no, you have to take the sides off.  You need to do this soon because a leak can cause problems with wood rot.  You shouldn't have to take off the spray insulation, just fill it with water and start looking with a flashlight.

If you find no water leaks, then your problem is likely your tub drain.


Why does my circuit breaker keep tripping for a lighting circuit? I have 4 light poles with 70 wattage bulbs in it. What size breaker do i need to run all four of my light poles. I have a 20 breaker on it, but the breaker keeps on tripping. Please help me.

A tripping breaker is either faulty, undersized for the load, or trying to save your life.

If it's faulty, then you can replace it with a new one and the problem will go away. If you're unfamiliar working inside of a breaker panel, then I recommend getting a professional for this.
If it's undersized, you need to move some load onto a different (possibly new) circuit. The breaker is sized the the wires in the wall, so you can't upgrade the breaker without replacing the wiring. With only 4 70 watt bulbs, that's under 3 amps, well within capacity of a 20 amp breaker, so unlikely to be your problem.
And if it's trying to save your life, there's a fault in the circuit and you should stop resetting the breaker. The fix is to correct the fault. From the sounds of it, you could have a short in the circuit, perhaps water getting into the lines or a bad junction. Either way, electricity in that situation is dangerous and needs to be corrected.


Is it an easy task to replace a wall thermostat? As above, is it an easy DIY job to do this safely?

In my research into the above it has become apparant that I should consider replacing the old thermostat with a programmable one for energy savings. How does a programmable thermostat produce savings? I assumed the whole point of the thermostat in the first place was that the heating wouldn't be on if it was below the desired level anyway.

Replacing a thermostat is trivial, and similar to changing a light switch.  Disconnect the two wires coming from the furnace/boiler, then reconnect them to the new thermostat.  Turn off power to the furnace/boiler first.

A programmable thermostat saves fuel and money because it can be programmed to lower the temperature when you sleep or are at work.

It doesn't matter which brand you pick, but most of them have horrible user interfaces, worse than old VCRs and clock radios.


New cooker needs wiring Hi I just bought a new cooker that says on the back it's 9.5kw to 10.7kw so was wondering what cable would be best 6mm or 10mm iv got a 35amp fuse in the breaker but do have a 50amp one I can put in. on a watt to amp calculator it said about 45 amp and in the manual it just said minimum 32amp cable.
Any help greatly appreciated
Thanks
Ben

You say you've got a 35A fuse and the unit takes 32A. So, on that front, you're good.
I'm not sure how UK wire is sold size-wise, but what you'll want to do is find some 3.5-4mm copper wire, which is rated for at least 40A (in the US we call it 8 gauge). It might be ideal to find it in a cable (hot, neutral and ground) for ease of running.


How to brightly light an entire backyard area with only one electrical box? The end goal is a security light for a backyard that provides ~10,000 lumens total output over an area of roughly 85 x 45 feet  (26 x 14 meters).

The problem is I haven’t found any ready made way to do that using a single fixture (to avoid adding another electrical box to the back of the house).

Could a standard two bulb fixture could come close using two powerful LED bulbs, or would a more DYI solution be requires to make it possible and practical?

What have I tried or thought of so far:

I know there are bulbs bright enough for other uses. I just added a 60w LED corn bulb in the garage and wow, it makes working at night wonderful.  However corn bulbs don’t seem to be the right fit for a backyard floodlight, for example they’d be wasting light by shining 360 degrees.
I’ve also seen standard A19 LED bulbs at 22 watts which is of course very bright, but wouldn’t do the job with only two sockets, and again seems it may not be optimal to light up a backyard even if you fit in the ~5 bulbs it would take.

Maybe something like this wall light would be required?
https://www.amazon.com/Ustellar-Waterproof-Equivalent-Floodlight-Landscape/dp/B01NBTB717

Maybe there is no bulb solution which would mean forgetting standard two socket security light fixtures and I’m just looking for the best options.

Short answer to your question no. I don't know why or how you came to need a 10,000 lumen LED but that would be the equivalent of a 250W High pressure gas type lamp. The E26 lamps are manufactured to replace an incandescent, edison base fixture. They do make retrofits for 10,000 lumen lamps but they would have a mogul base and be ballast driven.

The largest medium (edison) base incandescent manufactured is 500W which is about 6500 lumens so there would be no need to manufacture an LED retrofit any larger than that. Not saying someone might claim to have one but I would be highly sceptical.

Hope this helps.


What type of quick disconnects for 18ga to 12ga low voltage wire connections? I'm powering an 18ga 24V DC submersible pump for a water fountain in the yard using a 110V AC to 24V DC power supply (18 ga).  I'm planning to use 12ga stranded low voltage wire (max.30V) from the power supply to the pump (approx. distance 70ft).  Looking for compatible quick disconnects for 18ga to 12ga at both the power supply location and the pump location.

I purchased the following disconnects but since the connections to the pump will be exposed to the elements, not sure if they will adequately protect against moisture. Wondering if I should look into military grade disconnects to be safe?

I did a search for waterproof wire connectors. Get one that has 2 wires and is a screw-type connector with a good rubber or silicone seal. And make sure the connector fits your size wire.

When in doubt, if there is space where the wire enters the connector, seal with 100% silicone.

Source: I have solar panels that power a water pump outside and I use these light duty connectors which work fine. But I also put the connectors on a brick, off the ground, so they won't get submerged during a heavy rain.

But these connectors were tricky to put wire into and assemble. I'd use different connectors next time.

You want IP65 or higher rated connectors, IP68 preferred.


How do I connect a timer to circuit box which controls our outside lights? Currently our outdoor lights are being controlled by the circuit breaker in the box. We want to connect a timer to the circuit-breaker. There is a junction box with Black, White and a bare ground coming out of the Circuit box, which controls the outside lights. We have tried to install a programmable timer to this junction box, but not sure what to do with the blue wire, which would normally run to the fixture. In this case, the fixture and circuit box are the same thing...

From the looks of it, there are only black, white, and ground in the junction box. This most likely means it's set up as a switch, and the white wire is actually a switched hot (and should be marked with tape or marker with a black or red stripe).

Unfortunately, since your timer requires a neutral, this isn't quite going to work.

What you need to do is:

Open the main panel
You should find:

The black from this junction box goes to the breaker
The white is connected to a black wire that goes off to the fixture
The white wire that goes off to the fixture is connected to the neutral bus

If this isn't the case: stop. Update the post, as my instructions won't help.

First, route the wire that goes off to the fixture into this junction box

Ideally, you would do this outside of the breaker panel
You may need to use wire nuts and run a new wire into the junction box

Second, run a new wire from the panel to the junction box

Connect neutral (white) to the neutral bus in the breaker panel
Connect hot (black) to the breaker in question
You may be able to use whatever wire is there now for this, impossible to tell without opening the panel

You should now have in the junction box:

Black + white + ground from the panel (black from the breaker, white from neutral bus)
Black + white + ground going to the fixture.

Basically, just connect it up exactly as that diagram shows:

Connect grounds together, and to the fixture
Connect neutrals together (including the white wire on the timer)
Connect black from the break to black on the switch
Connect blue from the switch to black to the fixture


Using 15-amp thermostat on a 20 amp circuit I live in Washington state. I have a 20 amp circuit breaker on a circuit that drives two fan-forced heaters, connected through a single line voltage "dumb" thermostat, unknown rating. I would like to replace the "dumb" thermostat with a single wifi-connected smart thermostat.

The heaters look to be the same model and one of them has a nameplate shown below. Assuming the worst case of 2 x 1500 W, this should yield 3000 W / 240 V = 12.5 A.

Most line voltage smart thermostats I can find are rated at 16 amps. Can I use that on this circuit to control both heaters, or would I need a thermostat rated at 20 amps? 12.5 is less than 16 so it should work, but is it compliant with electrical codes?

From the below question it appears the answer is yes, but the second answer mentions "You can have multiple stats on one circuit. The code requires more than 1 you have 3 so this is up to code." I have only one thermostat - is that still ok?
Using 15 amp thermostat on a 20 amp circuit

(I wanted to add a comment under that answer to ask this question but I don't have enough reputation points.)

First off, regarding fixed electric space heating equipment the National Electrical Code has this to say:

424.3 Branch Circuits.
(A) Branch-Circuit Requirements.  Individual branch circuits shall be permitted to supply any volt-ampere or wattage rating of fixed electric space-heating equipment for which they are rated.
...
(B) Branch-Circuit Sizing.  Fixed electric space-heating equipment and motors shall be considered continuous load.

Since the heater is considered a continuous load then the branch circuit serving it has to be sized 125% of the load. Consequently, a 20 amp circuit can only serve a 16 amp load.
The Code also says:

424.19(C) Unit Switch(es) as Disconnecting Means.  A unit switch(es) with a marked “off” position that is part of a fixed heater and disconnects all ungrounded conductors shall be permitted as the disconnecting means required by this article where other means for disconnection are provided in the types of occupancies in 424.19(C)(1) through (C)(4).
...
(3) One-Family Dwellings.  In one-family dwellings, the service disconnecting means shall be permitted to be the other disconnecting means.

So, an additional disconnect is required for the heater besides the main service disconnect.
Then the Code has this to say about thermostats:

424.20 Thermostatically Controlled Switching Devices.
(A) Serving as Both Controllers and Disconnecting Means. Thermostatically controlled switching devices and combination thermostats and manually controlled switches shall be permitted to serve as both controllers and disconnecting means, provided they meet all of the following conditions:
(1) Provided with a marked “off” position
(2) Directly open all ungrounded conductors when manually placed in the “off” position
(3) Designed so that the circuit cannot be energized automatically after the device has been manually placed in the “off” position
(4) Located as specified in 424.19

So, you can use a thermostat as both a controller and the additional disconnect.
Now, elsewhere in the Code it is allowed that a switch can be used as a disconnect provided it is sized for the load it serves.

404.14 Rating and Use of Switches. Switches shall be used within their ratings and as indicated in 404.14(A) through (F).
*Informational Note No. 1: For switches on signs and outline lighting, see 600.6.
*Informational Note No. 2: For switches controlling motors, see 430.83, 430.109, and 430.110.
(A) Alternating-Current General-Use Snap Switch.  A form of general-use snap switch suitable only for use on ac circuits for controlling the following:
(1) Resistive and inductive loads not exceeding the ampere rating of the switch at the voltage applied

So, the branch circuit must be sized 125% of the load but the switch or thermostat in this case only has to be sized for the load. Consequently, this is why all the thermostats you have found are only rated for 16 amps since most branch circuits supplying these would be 20 amps and that would limit the load to 16 amps.


How best to cut vinyl drafting board cover? I'm topping an office desk with Vyco (an Alvin product which has few competitors e.g. Borco). The material is a 1/16th inch thick, very tough, and flexible. They advertise that scissors work; but in my practice that results in a very uneven cut. It's also insanely expensive.

Will a flush-trim bit on a router work? I have visions of too much heat blobbing the cut into a melted mess.

I can report that both a flush-trim bit and a 3/8" quarter-round work extremly well. It does appear as tho the vinyl melts; but it also appears that only the removed portions are hot enough. The effluent does tend to stick to itself and glom itself into a sort of fuzzy mess; but it brushes off easily. There was no noticible smell from the heated vinyl (the plywood substrate gave off a nasty formaldehyde oder).

All edges were securely fastened down with 1" 3M double-sided polyester tape; and all the bits used were very sharp high-end bits.

Very pleased with the result and recommend a router to anyone.

I've used that material before and cut it with a sharp razor blade and a clamped straightedge.  I didn't use scissors because like you said, there's really no way to get a good clean cut.

I agree that something like a router will generate too much heat, and could just not cut it at all because of it's rubbery flexibility.


How can I connect multiple lights to a two prong timer? I have an outdoor timer with two prongs (ie no ground). The wall outlet itself has GFCI. I have a three pronged (ie with ground) 3-outlet adaptor that does not fit into the timer as the ground prong hits up against the plastic/rubber enclosure of the timer. See photo attached (at top is the timer to go into the GFCI outlet, middle is the adaptor to go into the timer and at bottom the two-pronged extension cord). How can I string two or three extension cords (with either three prongs or two prongs) from the timer using the adaptor? I have not been able to find similar adaptors but with two prongs (ie without the ground) at my local stores.

Two-prong splitters are not hard to find. Expand your search to big box stores or online retailers.

You can also use the ubiquitous 3-to-2 adapter (cheater plug):

This adapter is safe to use in this case because of the GFCI outlet.

However, if you're in a pinch, just break off the ground prong on that green splitter and plug the ground holes on the outlets with caulk or something else non-conductive.

Don't use it for anything requiring equipment grounding. You're responsible for acting like an adult and not abusing this equipment (or a cheater plug, or whatever) or allowing less clever people to do so as a result.


How can I tell if the sagging in my plaster ceiling is getting worse? We moved into an old house, and one room still has the original 1890 horsehair lathed plaster all over. On the walls it's the consistency of sawdust held in place by a layer of paint. On the ceiling it is sagging and cracking, but I'd just as soon not fix it right now, which would trigger a bit more of a remodel than I want to do right now.

But my brain keeps thinking the sagging is getting worse...and worse...or maybe it isn't.

Is there a simple way to see if the sagging really is getting worse over time?

Find the lowest point in the ceiling and place a small pencil mark there.  Then measure from the floor to that point and record the measurement. Periodically re-measure and if measurement is getting smaller, then the sagging is getting worse.


Size of electric wire needed to serve overhead projector and screen off 20 amp breaker I have an electric run of about 100 feet on a 20 amp breaker.  I plan to hook up an overhead projector and automatic screen which this line will be dedicated to serve.  What size of wire should I use?  I gather maybe #10 will suffice, but thought I would ask. Thanks

Unless there's a problem with power quality, which there shouldn't be over a 100' run. 12 AWG copper conductors should be fine for a 20 ampere branch circuit.

If the equipment draws 20 amperes on a continuous basis, upgrading to 10 AWG copper can increase power quality. But I doubt your equipment will draw anywhere near that amount of current, so #12 should do fine.


How can I convert this cast-iron cleanout to a proper air-gapped drain? My house's water softener and salt tank overflow currently drain through what appears to be a drilled-out cast iron cleanout cap in the basement, close to where the sewer line exits the house.  This causes problems such as sewage smells and is not to code.  I would like to correct this by attaching a PVC wye with a no-hub coupler, leading to a air-gapped drain and trap for the water softener and a cleanout to reach the sewer lateral line.
My questions are:

Can I get a no-hub coupler on the portion currently visible, or will I need to remove concrete around the pipe?
Will I need to cut the pipe below the flange visible just above the concrete, or could the no-hub coupler attach onto it?
What do I need to do to remove the old clean-out cap/remaining threads?  It appears to be some kind of insert into the pipe.
Does the proposed solution meet current code for Ohio?

Current situation:

Proposed solution:

I agree with Ecnerwal, definitely use the threads for a much better solution. Don't worry about the iron's threads AT ALL, they'll cut and correct the wimpy PVC's threads as needed.
As a side note, concerning the VERY WRONG information out there about Air Gaps...usually from Home Inspectors. Air Gaps have absolutely nothing to do with sealing out smell, gases nor anything else. Air Gaps are nothing but a terrible back-flow prevention device.
Since this is a drain, you'll need to handle it, mostly (see below's opinion), like a sink drain, or more specifically, a laundry washer's standpipe to get it legal most anywhere.
You'd have a bottom shorter vertical straight pipe that leads up to a P-trap and another longer length vertical straight pipe (longer so volume can force out a clog) that goes up 30-inches, if possible, that you stick in or strap/wire-tie your hoses into.
I don't feel the vent and AAV in the image below are needed for your situation, as the open top of the Standpipe would be plenty of vent for your low-volume situation to flow properly. BUT, regulations may indeed require it, even though the pipe you're draining into is twice the size and doing the venting of anything nasty (technically, a wet vent)...you just need good flow.


What is this device and what is wrong with it? I have this device in my basement that is hooked up to the water system. I have no idea what it does or even if it works. Why is it covered in that stuff?

Sorry for the quality of the last photo.

It's the old sump pump, which was presumably working when the new sump pump was installed, and kept as a spare in case the new sump pump died. It looks about normal for an old sump pump (they sit in water and get cruddy.)

It's not actually "connected" to anything, though there may be a wire taped to the cut-off pipe.


What is this thing with wires found on wall inside closet, and how do I remove it? My 1950's-ish home in Pennsylvania has an addition built off of the kitchen (no idea when the addition was built).  In this addition there is a closet I am remodeling.  While taking down the wood paneling I found this:

My first thought was that it could be a doorbell chime since this addition has a door to outside, but then I remembered that door has no bell.  It definitely has power running to it.  What is it and how do I remove it?  My idea at the moment is to shut off the main breaker (since I don't know which one this is on), unscrew the wires, put in a box, cap wires, and when I drywall put a plate over it for later access if needed.

Those certainly looks like doorbell electromagnets, so my guess is you are correct in assuming it is a doorbell chime unit. Maybe a previous owner removed the door button.

Doorbell chime with electromagnets visible, for comparison:

  My idea at the moment is to shut off the main breaker (since I don't
  know which one this is on), unscrew the wires, put in a box, cap
  wires, and when I drywall put a plate over it for later access if
  needed.

Your proposed solution is correct. Because it is live, you must leave it accessible.

As you work more on your remodel, try to find where the wires originate. That location will be the transformer for your doorbell. This is where you should disconnect your low voltage wires (the ones going to the doorbell), remove your transformer, and cap your 120V wires. Alternatively, you could simply leave your transformer connected to your 120V and just disconnect the low voltage side going to the doorbell.

Either way, you won't have to leave a box & blank plate in your newly remodeled area. Here is an example of what your transformer setup might look like:


what is the correct slope for a 2" horizontal drain pipe For a 2" drain pipe horizontal run in a bathroom, what is the correct slope drop per 10 feet?

Also, can a single 2" drain pipe support a separate tub, shower and 2 sinks?

1/4 inch per foot is most common and is the minimum allowed. Maximum allowed is 3 inches per foot

So on a 10 foot section that would be 2.5 inches total slope minimum and 30 inches maximum.

For the second part of your question see the answer to this question.


Do I really care about thick insulation if I am ventilating the house? I notice that a lot of new construction standards have all kinds of very tight, thick insulation standards which is great for saving energy, but do I really care about this if I am ventilating the house?

For example, if the house is getting 4 air changes per hour, insulation doesn't really seem to matter because I am bringing in freezing cold air into the house constantly, so the amount of cold coming in through the ventilation system will be way higher the amount of cold coming through the walls/windows. So, why even worry about insulation?

I live in New England where temperatures easily get to -10 degrees F and below in the winter and up to 95-100 F in the summer.

In my current (old) house, I have forced hot water heating and no ventilation system at all, but the house is so leaky that I get air coming in through the cracks and crannies. So, lets say I am getting 2 ACH by leakage in my current house. Would that mean I am actually going to be spending twice as much heating a new house which has 4 ACH forced air ventilation?

As is typical of your past questions, you are being hyperbolic and absurd.

ASHRHE suggests a ventilation rate of 40 to 70 CFM - if we took 70 CFM and 4 air changes per hour, your house would be a 10 foot cube, roughly. As far as I recall past mention of your purported house, it will be much, much, much larger than that.

As such, the ACH (which would still be at most 70 per that standard) will be far below 4. And the surface area of poorly insulated or uninsulated building
to enclose that area will be large, and losing a metric-butt-ton® of heat as a result.

I've run the numbers in past answers.
Are BTU's only calculated using square feet?

Dropping them into my shop's spreadsheet, 70 CFM is 0.1736 ACH and amounts to 6381 BTU/hr at design temperature (-20°F). It will be a shade less if yours is only -10°F The walls (R33 SIPs) account for 6709 BTU/hr at design temperature. If you made the walls crappy R11 they'd burn 20128 BTU/Hr instead. I don't even need to get into the ceiling, floor, doors, or windows (all additional heat flows) to make fairly clear that even without a HRV, yes, insulation matters. Of course, if you added an HRV you could shave off 5104 btu/hr at my design temperature, and that's something I'm certainly considering doing.


Maytag Dryer LD69806AAE Doesn't Start We have a Maytag Dryer Model # LDG9806AAE in our rental property. Our tenant said it stopped working so I checked it out today. When I pressed the "power" button. I hear a buzzing sound but the drum doesn't tumble. Any suggestions for investigating before I call an appliance expert come and fix it? Are there belts? or a motor needs to be replaced? Thanks in advance.

Mike

We had this problem and it turned out to be the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse helps prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it gets too hot. If the clothes dryer will not start, examine this fuse. This is the most typical part to fail when the dryer won't work.


Can I change an under mount sink for a drop in? i want to change my kitchen sink without changing the counter top. Can I use the cutout of my undermount sink to install a new dropin sink?

Yes an undermount sink can easily be converted to a drop in sink.  If you can find one that is close to spec all that you have to do is drop it in and secure with silicone.  You will have a little wiggle room given that you have a lip but it might be harder than you think - as undermounts have few standard sizes/look and these are not the exact same as top mounted.

To make your life easier if you can't find a good 1-for-1 replacement with exact aligning you are probably better getting something a bit bigger.  That way you can cut counter to meet the exact needs.  The other factors are any holes for plumbing.  You cannot buy a sink that that just covers up half a hole.  I would need to cover the whole hole or be like for like.


Painting over wall with peeling paint I took down wallpaper in my dining room and it revealed an old paint layer that started to peel off as I scraped off the backing and glue.  I'd like to repaint but how to I go about getting rid of the old paint layer?  I'm afraid if I just sand it it will divit in spots on the wall and won't be an even finish.  Is there something I can paint on after I sand it?  I'm not really sure what to do next.

First, make sure you get all (and I do mean all) of the loose paint off the wall. If you get a fairly flexible wallpaper scraper you should be able to bring most of it up. Keep going for that extra 5 minutes after you think you've finished.

Then sand the remaining paint to feather the edges so that they are as smooth as possible.

Next get some filler (spackle I think it's called in the states) and fill in any cracks and large holes. You can also use it over any edges that still seem harsh. When it's dry a light sand will smooth out the imperfections - but don't let it get too dry as it can go very hard.

Then wash the walls down with warm (mild) soapy water, then rinse off with fresh clean water. Allow to dry then prime the wall with either a specialist primer or a watered down coat of emulsion. This will also help find any last imperfections which you can fill and reprime.

Then the wall is ready to paint.


Is it safe to seal a gas fireplace? I live in an apartment which has a gas fireplace. The pilot fire is sky blue in the fireplace, but I can still smell the gas somehow.
The fireplace has a glass door but it is not hermetic when the door is closed. I was wondering whether it is safe to use some Scotch Tape to seal the fireplace glass door completely. If I seal it, maybe the odor wouldn't leak from the fireplace into my room. However, I knew that burning needs oxygen and I'm not sure whether it will generate Monoxide or explode if I seal the glass door. Does anyone have ideas about this? Thanks!

Where I live, it is mandatory that if you can smell the gas, you have to call a professional certified in detecting gas leaks in home installations, or if you can't afford that, emergency gas service. They will find the leak and fix it or, if it is not trivial, safely unplug your device so you could get it to repair shop, in a way that is up to a local code and will prevent gas leaks in the immediate future.
If you have a tiny leak, that now dissipates creating non explosive air mixture, enclosing it in a smaller place may create your own personal fuel-air bomb. Gas shouldn't be leaking. It should be burning creating more or less odorless exhaust gases. The smell is added to that gas so you can know when you have an unacceptable leak or when something is wrong with burning process. Leaving the real problem alone and just sealing it off is not a solution. It is creating a much bigger risk for later.


What type of mortar should I use to repair masonry joints on a building exterior? I need recommendation for type of mortar offering good grip to repair old deteriorated mortar between masonry squares with a hole in the middle used for the balcony wall. This is a 20th story balcony in a Houston high rise building built in the 70s. The gaps  are about 3/4 inch. Owner is responsible to fix the inside of balcony. The outside seems OK.
In addition to the mortar, I was thinking to use a stainless wire to wrap around the masonry square to add additional strength wherever mortar is replaced. Thank you.

Sounds like a pretty standard repointing job, other than the location - rake, chisel (or "grout-saw") out all the loose/deteriorated mortar to some convenient depth, wet the joints, pack in new mortar (keep it damp so that it cures, rather than drying out) and tool the surface. You'll find more information in general on "repointing brick" but it's essentially the same other than your joints may be a bit wider than a typical brick joint mortar-line.
1970's era construction is probably normal modern Portland cement based mortar. i.e. what your masonry supplier will have as mortar mix, not some weird old lime-putty stuff you might need for historical preservation, where using the modern stuff will cause problems since the wall was built with the old-style stuff.


Does a 4 ft. chain link fence need concrete footings for the posts? I am about to install a chain link fence between my deck and pool. My pool has a 4 inch slab of concrete and I have about 5" between the deck and the start of the concrete. The chain link fence will just fit between the two.

It will be near impossible to dig a hole in that small of a space. This fence will be a 4' fence, low grade, as it's more to act as a visual buffer between the deck and the pool for our young daughter (the entire backyard is enclosed in a 6ft vinyl privacy fence.

So my question is, what is the minimum height I should drive the posts to make them sturdy - and would it help to attach the posts to the side of the concrete pad with U brackets?

I understand that it would be difficult to dig holes for a concrete footing for your posts. Depending where you are located and the soil types, you could drive the posts in and still have a stable fence. If you are in an area with frost in the ground, I would encourage you to set them at least 3 feet deep if the soil is stable and compacted. The basic rule of thumb is to bury at least a third of the posts, but half the length is even better if you can do it.


Can I safely exchange the positions of differently-sized gas range burners? I have a Frigidaire Gallery dual fuel range. On the left side, the smaller burner is located in the front and I want the smaller burners in the back.
Is there any reason why I should not swap the jets and burners?

The gas orfices are sized for the BTU heating of each individual burner. A burner that does not match the required orfice size of that burner may not be able to burn the gas supplied correctly: ie. too much gas, not enough air at max flame.


Can I Combine Two Three-Way Switches and Add Outlet? I have two three-way switches that I would like to combine into a two combination three-way switch and add an outlet. Is there anything wrong with doing this? I am thinking of wiring them both to the combination switch and then tapping off of that to add an outlet. Please let me know if more info is needed.

You will not be able to combine those to 3-way switches with the switch you have shown. You'll need a double 3-way combination switch, which is two 3-way switches combined. It looks very similar to the one you have shown but with two extra screws.

With the wires shown in your picture, adding the outlet won't work. You've either got load wires or hot wires or a combination of both connecting to the common terminal of the 3-way switches and I don't see a neutral in there. You might be able to fish a hot, neutral and ground to that location for the outlet. Hope this helps.


Draft from under baseboard - pull back carpet or remove baseboard to caulk? Using an infrared thermometer/camera, I found what seems to be a draft coming from beneath a baseboard in the corner of a carpeted room.

I understand that caulking can stop drafts from under baseboards, but I'm wondering if I need to pull back the carpet or remove the baseboards (or do both) to do the job right?

I'm planning to repaint the room and baseboards next week, so I want to try to get the draft fixed first to avoid damaging the newly-painted surfaces.

Attempting to put caulking to the wall under the base board with the carpet installed is very likely going to result in caulking spread out onto the carpet - also if you ever have to pull it temporarily - the parts embedded into the caulk will separate from the rest of the carpet.  Unfortunately, placing the caulking under the baseboard with the carpet removed also presents a problem; namely dirty, sharp, and possibly rusty pointy carpet grabbing spike heads - ready to puncture your fingers.  I would recommend using caulking backer rod.  This is a flexible solid foam rope which could be pushed into the gap conforming to the space and sealing off any air penetration.

A more permanent solution would require crawling;
If this is an interior wall and access to crawlspace or basement is available  I would suggest inspecting the floor for penetrations which could be sealed.  If it is an exterior wall check for penetrations through the wall plate (bottom and top) at the perimeter and any exterior penetrations for outlets.  horizontal siding is notorious for allowing air to enter walls; without a well sealed vapor barrier under the siding, there is little that can be done without opening the walls.


Can I heat a radiator directly? I understand the workings of steam and hot water radiators, however there has been a nagging question in my mind about why we first heat water (for steam or hot water) before we heat the radiator. Why can't we use hot air to heat the radiators? For example, why can't I hold a propane torch at the bottom of an inlet opening of a radiator and heat the radiator that way? It seems to me that the radiator would heat faster and more efficiently that way.

Heat transfer from water to the metal of the radiator is much more efficient than the heat transfer from the radiator metal to the air. Or in the case you posed from hot air to the radiator metal.

It is also relatively simple and compact to pipe the hot water or steam from room to room and floor to floor to service a series of radiators. A duct work to move hot air in the same way would be a lot larger in cross sectional area to transfer the same amount of heat energy from the heater to the radiators.


Where to pour bleach solution to unclog AC drain I don’t see the opening to pour a bleach solution into on my current system. Old ones had a cap that I could remove. Any ideas?  The pic shows the systems drain pipes.

I wonder why you have two drains. My evaporator has two caps on drains but a drain only fitted to the lower one. I thought maybe the 2nd one was for installing the evaporator in the horizontal, rather than the vertical.

Is your drain backing up? If not, maybe you don't need to get bleach into the condensate drain. My installation (done in 1991) does not have a Tee to get bleach into the condensate drain and we have never had a backup of condensate. I do wish I had one though. The same company that installed ours did put a Tee into the condensate line in another house we owned at the time. A stopper is inserted to keep air from flowing out at that point. It is nice to be able to remove the stopper to see if the condensate is flowing. Bleach could poured into the line there but we never did, nor has the new owner of the house.

You could drill 1/2" holes in the horizontal runs and insert stoppers to prevent air escape during operation. With a small funnel you could introduce bleach into the system with the fan off. Most of it would flow downstream but enough of it might flow into the evaporator to kill mold there.


One half of my mobile home electrical won't work I was switching out a couple of switches when I bumped two of the wires, they sparked and popped. Now on one whole side of the mobile home the outlets and switches won't work.

I checked the breakers and they're all good. So I unwired everything I did, but it still wont work.

Is it a broken breaker or what?

Many times when breakers trip they are hard to visually see since the handle may not move much. Make sure you shut all the breakers all the way off and then turn them back on. Don't forget the main.

You may have blown a fuse in the main disconnect seeing the mobile home and now you are only getting have the transformer or one leg of it. That would be the thing to check after resetting all the breakers.


Lamp Project With No Ground Wires Question 1. I am building myself a lamp and I am using a plastic 1 gang outlet box.  There are no ground wires.  How can I properly ground the lamp?

Question 2: Can I attach a metal bar and place it on the wood, then attach the ground wire?

You get a usb charger, and wire up the lamp in 5V, going to LEDs. (There are 5V LED bulbs, or you could hardwire them in, depending on the type of lamp you're building.) There is no ground wire, but it's low voltage, so there's no safety issue.

EDIT: 12V is also good; you can use whichever is most convenient.


What lubricant should I use for an outside garage door lock? I recently asked what sort of lubricant I should use on locks.

I was wondering if the advice there (i.e. graphite powder) applied to an outside garage door handle lock?

The lock in question looks like this, and is outside, unsheltered.

You'll want to use a dry silicone lubricant like this.

Or a graphite lubricant like this.

The liquid part of these lubricants evaporates quickly, leaving behind a protective coating that will keep the lock functioning properly for quite some time.

You don't want to use a lubricant like WD-40, because it will not evaporate completely and will collect dirt and debris and eventually freeze the lock again.

For an exterior lock exposed to the elements, you'll want to reapply the lubricant occasionally (about once every year or two depending on the weather), or anytime the lock seems sticky.


4x100 meter base to 2x200 without changing meter base? We have a multi apartment building (4 independent services 400 amp from pole) with meter socket 1mp4124rrl. We want to convert to 2x200 amp services. Will we have to install a new 2 socket meter base to accommodate this or can we do with existing

If each apartment can make it on 125A, I would leave it be.  You need a third service anyway for commons space loads, unless there are none or very few and you are doing something clever like installing a solar/battery system for those.

Otherwise yes, you will need to replace with a 3-unit 200A meter; two for the apartments and one for the commons loads.

Commons loads must now be on a separate meter, per many states and municipalities, and of late, NEC as well.

Even if you can weasel out of having a commons meter, I would still get a spare meter base for one.  The reason is rooftop/carport/onsite solar, whose economics just keep getting better and better.  Once solar shingles reach net parity with regular shingles, nobody will install anything else.

Note that with this conversion, the former main panels will now be subpanels. Any 3-wire service lines must have ground wires retrofitted.  You must obtain separate ground bars for those panels, and move all ground wires to them and pull the N-G bonds.  Feel free to have 2+ ground bars, they are cheap.

Honestly, my goal would be to change little more than drywll, and retain my ability to convert the unit back to 4 apartments in the future for when the market changes.  I for one am stunned that you can get more than twice as much for a doubled unit as a single, but that's not your question.

To mimimize disruption, I would advice having a setup that allows each service to have

a 200A main breaker
at least six breaker spaces

four for two 100A breakers to each panel (so you don't have to replace feeder), and
two or more for things like EVSE.


How should I route PVC electrical conduit around lightning prevention downleads? What precautions or steps are needed when routing Schedule 40 PVC Electrical conduit across (90 degree crossing) a lightning prevention downlead? This downlead looks to be braided copper cable approximately 1/2" in diameter. Is there a specified distance between the PVC conduit and the downlead? For your consideration, I live in Philadelphia and I'm looking to install security lighting on a 20 amp circuit running on 12 gauge THHN.

Of all the homes I help oversee the construction of, the main thing that was followed when it comes to lightning protection is no sharp bends in the cable, or uphill runs. Always going down to ground. It can be run through walls, by means of drilled holes through the plates, so a close proximity of a non conductive PVC will be no problem. If you want to be safe, get a small gap between the conduit and the cable, though I think it does not need to be much say 1/2"to an 1". Since static electricity carries over the surface of the wire and not through the wire, which is the reason the cable is loosely braided, a little space between the two should suffice, just to be sure.


Will adding a water softener to a house with hard water loosen / dissolve existing sediment? Will adding a water softener to a house with (very) hard water loosen / dissolve existing sediments in pipes and appliances throughout the house? If so, is it anything to worry above?

Funny Enough, I also have a Water Softener that has been working strong for 10 years. When we first bought it, I called Whirlpool about the same question. Because In Southern California, we also had a long stretch of time where we were getting very hard water.

I spoke to a rep from Whirlpool regarding this very question. 'Could the water softener clean the pipes in the house. Or was there specific kinds of pellets, I could use in order to help make that happen.

And the answer is No.

What you have to understand is a Water Softener does 1 job, it removes calcium from your water. There are also pellets that prevent rust within your machine. But not rust in your pipes.

The machine is what removes the calcium from your water. In order to maintain the Water Softener to keep it functioning properly, you need to clean the resin beads that attach themselves to the calcium. The salt pellets that you dump in the Water Softener is what does the cleaning. The salt is what cleans the resin beads. That's why you don't taste salt out of your home faucets.

Is it possible to clean your pipes in a different way? Possibly, but it can't be done with a Water Softener.


What is the name of this part of drawers? I was trying to describe a specific part of a set of drawers in another question, and cannot find the right name for it.

A photo showing the same part.  Notice not all drawers have these, or they may be spaced out in a reduced number - I have one set where there's a drawer-thingy every two drawers, not between each.

Given that every part of any item made of wood has some kind of name, I'm positive this does but can't find it.

I don’t believe it’s any of these:

Shelf - its a useless shelf because you can't put anything on it.
Front Face - this applies to the whole front that doesn't open.

Maybe:

Shelf brace?
Stringer?
Drawer support?  (incredibly boring!)
Drawer chinrest?  Perhaps - given

According to this diagram¹ it is a 'mid rail'.

That's a pretty standard North American term. It's quite likely you would find alternates from the UK, Europe, etc. I once worked alongside an architect who was educated in England. This fellow tended to call any horizontal support a lintel although I believe the true definition is a bit stricter.

¹ This diagram seems have at least one typo. 'Gusset or Coner Block' should most likely be 'Gusset or Corner Block'.


Replacing bathroom sink popup drain if sink has hairline cracks I am not a plumber but I am quite handy and I want to replace an ancient bathroom faucet in an attempt to upgrade my apartment. I am not positive what material the sink is, whether marble or porcelain, but there are hairline cracks surrounding the drain. My concern is that I will pull out the old pop up drain to replace it and the sink around the drain is going to crumble. Am I underestimating the durability of these sinks and should everything stay intact? Just how much does the thickness of the sink extend beyond these cracks.. are they just superficial? Looking under the sink there is a lot of bulk and I don’t see how these tiny cracks could eacalate to a major leak (unless the sink were hollow..?)

I am basically just asking whether it would be safe to remove/replace this popup drain on a sink in this condition or if I should just leave it alone. Any advice appreciated. Thank you!

I'm a bit confused by the depressed nature of those cracks, but I agree with UnhandledExcepSean. They're probably cosmetic. I've worked on some old sinks and have never had one disintegrate.

I'd look at the underside and see whether any of the cracks translate through. I'm guessing that if they did you'd have substantial leakage already.

Also, you could ask the property owners if they're willing to compensate you for expenses. You might get a new sink out of it.


Campground sub panel grounding question I’m involved in maintaining a small campground. Some areas are served by overhead electric and an underground services.
No ground wire was ever ran or pulled from the main breaker panels. Individual ground rods have put at each sub panel. And they are bonded in many cases. What we are doing now is putting in new sub panels on our utility poles and installing new  50/30/20 outlet panels for each RV site.
  Each sub panel at the utility pole has a ground rod that’s for that sub panel. Do we run a ground wire ground from the sub panel to the new outlet panel or put another ground rod at the
new 50/30 /20 outlet panel? It would be impossible to run a separate ground wire in the underground conduit.

Edit:

The conduit is PVC. With 3 wires 2 hot one neutral. No ground. Overhead is aluminum triplex.

With current code (17) if you have a 4 wire feed a local ground rod was not required in the 2017 code not sure about 2020 as it will not be adopted until October on my state but I don’t know why they would change that.


Low Frequency Hum - exactly 30 minute duration at random times I am having an incredibly annoying vibration/hum through my wall/ floor. It is Reverberating at about 36Hz. I am an audio engineer so I have the equipment to analyze it. It happens randomly throughout the day but mostly in the evening / night while I'm sleeping. It happens for exactly 30 minutes to the second. Sometimes it doesn't start again for many hours sometimes it will start again after a 10 minuet break but still always 30 minutes. I am in the 3rd floor of an apartment building. I have run around feeling pipes while it is happening to see what this could be. It's not the air conditioners. Sometimes it goes of 7 times a day. Sometimes it goes off 3 but always during the night. It sounds like a motor or compressor I can't sleep. I can't tell anyone when it's going to happen to call anyone to come out. I am going crazy. Please help!

Could it be a sump pump in your building and the discharge pipe is touching framing.


Does Rosemary repel mosquitoes from home? Setting out the mosquito repellent plants in your home is the best option to keep mosquitos away. Plants not only avoid mosquitoes away but also provide you fresh air to breathe.

Here is a published source, USA Today, that has published an article discussing rosemary as well as other plants that repel mosquitoes.

USA Today Article

I'm not making any claims as to the effectiveness of any of these, so take this for what it's worth.  My guess is that these can't hurt and would make a nice garden.  To quote what they say about rosemary:

  Rosemary. Though you'll want to plant an herb garden for cooking, rosemary repels flies and mosquitoes.

  It also has a pungent scent that drives away other bugs, including
  cabbage moths. It does well in hot dry weather, and thrives in
  containers, so you can set it in various places around the garden.


Remove white stain from countertop I moved into an apartment with new counter tops. I'm not sure what type they are, but I think they are formica. They also said "glaze." Which I'm guessing is some sort of laminate?

Anyways, someone put a hot cup on the counter and it left a white stain. It isn't too bad, but my apartment will make me pay for it. Any way to restore it? Thanks!

That appears to be Corian (or something similar).  You can find cleaning and repair guides on the DuPont website.  These counter tops are not horribly heat resistant (as you found out), and can discolor or even melt it enough heat is applied.

I've heard that letting baking soda sit on the stain for a while will remove some discolorations, but I've never tried it myself.  My guess is that you'll have to try to polish it out with a very mild abrasive and hope it didn't go too deep.  See the section in the linked page above for "Removing Fine Scratches".


Light switch wiring is confusing me I'm trying to replace a light switch with a new light switch (zwave lightswitch) that requires a 3 wire set up. When I took the old light switch off it was connected with two wires, a black wire and a red wire. There were also two white wires that were just connected to each-other (is that the 3rd wire I need?). This light switch junction seems to be powering an electrical outlet in my room because it is no longer working after I disconnected the light switch. (Could those white wires be what was connecting the outlet?) Does anyone have any ideas as to what I did wrong?

Oh, dear.  Who did that?

First off, the last person who worked in this box left you a mess to straighten out.  You're going to need some 12AWG THHN for pigtailing and a couple of wire nuts to fix this.

Turn the power off to this abomination at the electrical panel.
Use a pair of wire cutters to cut off the splice between the two hot (black) wires and strip the wires back enough for a good junction.
Strip both ends of the pigtail -- one black and one white is best here.
Put one pigtail with the two black wires and wire-nut them together, leaving the other end of this hot pigtail free.
Undo the tape on the white wires and free them up (this may require cutting off the existing junction if it's soldered together)
Put the other pigtail with the two white wires and wire-nut those together.
Wire the black pigtail to the AC Power L terminal, the white pigtail to the AC Power N terminal, and the red wire to the Load L terminal on your switch.
Button things back up and turn the power back on

P.S. this switch doesn't need to be grounded as it has a fixed, nonmetallic faceplate.  See NEC 404.9(B) Exception 2 for details.


Fix wall near bottom of staircase Above is a picture of the wall adjoining the bottom of the staircase leading to the basement.
I am finishing my basement (in the process of flooring/molding etc.). I intend to use baseboard, then quarter round after the flooring. The builder has left the portion of drywall as in picture.
What are my options to finish this so I can paint/apply baseboard, etc.?

I would cut a thin strip of drywall to fit that missing section. It will be a little awkward because it's thin and long and therefore easily breakable. Cut it from a piece that has a finished edge to help hold it together. That edge should face the door frame. Because it's so narrow the best way to fasten it in place will be with construction adhesive. You may have to support the strip from behind to get the strip level with the existing drywall. Scrap cardboard should do the trick.
When mounting the strip pack some spackle between the strip and the drywall. The reason you want to do this is because the repair will be too narrow to tape and the packing will help keep the spackle from cracking.
Smooth any excess spackling and hold the strip in place for a few minutes to let the adhesive set.
You can then finish the job with additional spackling and sanding as needed after the adhesive has set firmly.


What type of underlayment should be used when installing engineered floors? I'm going to install floating engineered wood floor in a 3rd floor condo. It has plywood subfloor. My biggest concern is the noise of walking on the floor that people below me will suffer.

My question is, does a good/premium underlayment help reduce or deaden the sound? How about foam vs cork underlayment?

There are several good foam type underlayments available. For maximum sound proofing, I'd probably recommend one of the high density closed cell foam pads as opposed to the standard blue or white 1/8" lightweight styles.  You may have to visit a flooring specialty store, I have never seen the better grades in stock at the box stores, although they may be able to order it for you.  The product description on the better grades will specifically mention superior sound deadening. Good luck.


Can Cat 5 cable be run in metal conduit? I want to run Cat 5 cable along the side of my home in 1/2 in. EMT Conduit.  I was considering actually pulling to Cat 5 cable in that conduit.  Will this cause any problems on a 100Mbps connection between a video camera and my GB switch?

As long as you're not running power in the same conduit or parallel to the conduit within about a foot you will be fine.


Grounding a TV aerial I am trying to ground a TV aerial.
Is it accepted to add the ground wire to the electrical earth wire in my home? Or should I attach the ground wire to my copper water pipe?

You can ground off the electrical ground. Cable companies do this all the time. I would only ground off a pipe if no other options existed.

Note: When cable companies do this, they attach a new saddle joint to the ground. Don't connect to an existing block.


Why does my new furnace vibrate and smell like burnt oil? I just had a new Furnace installed (Goodman GCES960804CN) along with an evap coil
(CE48D44210L004) and AC condenser (GSX140481) on Jan. 9th 2020 by professionals. Everything is new equipment and the air filter has been changed.

Now when i run the furnace it's making a vibration noise after it finishes its cycle, along with a burning oil smell. This happens randomly so its hard to make it happen when the HVAC person is here so that I can show him the vibrating noise and oil burning smell. Some days i can run the furnace for 6 hours without the noise and smell - other times it happens after it finishes its cycle.

Originally I figured it was overheating and the unit was shutting itself off to protect itself. But then it started happening early in the morning when the furnace was not in use through out the night. So it couldn't be from over-heating.
Some small facts - the House is 1700sf two-story home. There are 9 vents. The old unit was a 3.5 ton unit and the new furnace is a 4 ton unit.

Can a few of you experts help me solve this issue?

My suggestion is to record the sound. If using your phone take a video. Move the phone slowly to knee height, up to head height, move over a couple of feet and repeat.

It may be a piece of flashing in the air handler that is not sealing well any that can make a heck of a racket. As far as the smell again it could be a seal. Take note of the outside conditions when it is vibrating. Is it windy, raining, snowing?  If you can put together 1 or 2 more clues it may be easy to track it down.


How can I fit a Schlage lockset in my front door? I moved into a condo with a Kwikset lockset in the door. I wanted to replace it with a Schlage lockset, but the actual bolt portion of the deadbolt was too large to fit into the pre-drilled hole. If it was a wooden door I would just expand the hole a little bit, but it's a steel door. It looks like the holes for the lock were pre-fabricated into the door and lined with plastic.

Can I expand the hole? If not, what are my options as far as getting a new steel door made that will fit a Schlage lock? Finally, what other measures can I take to secure my front door? It's the only vulnerable point of entry, and there have been a string of breakins in my condo complex lately.

As for expanding the hole, I am still confident this post will answer your question.

Regarding the Schlage deadbolts, these are not great deadbolts.  If you really want high security, you need to look at Mult-T-Lock or Medeco.  These are far more secure for a number of reasons. First, they are made of much harder metals - if you feel them compared to another deadbolt there is a noticable weight difference.  These deadbolts also often have balls at the end that push out of the bolt when fully expanded so it cannot be forced back in. Also, the keys for these locks can only be made (not copied) by the locksmith who originally created them (each locksmith is assigned a "keyway" and is the only locksmith who can produce the keys), this is handy if you have a cleaning lady or other service person since you can rest assure they cannot make a copy of the key for their friends.  There are also metal rings you can put around a deadbolt that spin so that someone cannot use a wrench to twist if off.

If your doors hinges are on the outside then you can also look at having bolts installed on the inside of the door.  This way, if the hinges are removed (pins popped out, or blown off with a shotgun), you cannot just pull the door off.

A heaver guage strike (the metal piece that goes on top of the hole where the deadbolt goes into) with longer screws will add extra strength to the deadbolt and hamper someone knocking down the door.

You can also place a cage in front of the door (which too has a deadbolt) but they are not attractive, and add an extra step to opening your door.

An alarm is useful but in a lot of cases, of someone knows what they want, they can be in and out before anyone responds.

A camera adds an extra layer of "don't mess with me" plus gives you a far better chance of identifying an intruder.


can 3 2x6 x8' wooden board support a 900lb load? I wish to support a 900 lb motor I want to use 3 2x6x8 for a support beam will this be enough?

Yes, assuming they're small-knot boards in good condition. In fact, one would probably hold, but wouldn't be what I'd call safe.

Be sure to securely fasten the boards together using plenty of nails, screws, or some other mechanism to prevent twisting and other movement.


Installation of Polystyrene External Wall Insulation - over old render? I am considering installing a Polystyrene-block based External Wall Insulation system.  Currently the house is blockwork with a rough render.

One contractor has told be that the existing render on the house will not need to be removed (i.e. they advise glueing the Polystyrene blocks directly to the old render).  This seems a bit odd to me, especially since the render is so rough (there's about a 20mm difference between peaks and troughs in the render).

I would have thought the old render would need to be removed, so that the blocks are attached flush with the blockwork (e.g. so that there is no cold airflow between the blockwork and the polystyrene, and simply to achieve an even/level covering with the blocks).  Can anyone offer an opinion either way?

If you want the job done properly (minimize the risk of any potential problems later on down the road), get the existing render removed, install your new external wall system, then apply new render to your new external wall.


Why would ceiling fan reverse air flow without me changing directions? I have this exact ceiling fan, and so far it has worked nicely. It is mounted in my bedroom, I believe height to floor is about 12 feet and the rod from the ceiling to the actual fan is about 18 inches (estimates here, if you want more specifics I could go and measure).

But for all of summer it was blowing fine - pretty powerfully, but largely hot. Now that the climate has changed and the breeze is cooler, I literally feel absolutely NO AIR below it. When I hold my hand beside it, I can feel breeze up there - almost as if it is sucking air from the bottom and pushing it to the top.

I haven't tested this theory fully yet, by say taping a piece of paper to the roof and seeing how it responds when the fan is turned on, but a lot of this is anecdotal just based on what me and my wife feel.

Is there any reason that the air flow would reverse, without any explicit reason. I was looking for a switch or something on the fan, and I can't find one - so I don't think someone could have flipped it while it was being cleaned, or is there some hidden mechanism that I am unaware of?

Help!

Most ceiling fans have a reverse switch. In the summer, you want cool air blowing down in the center to give you the breeze. In the winter, you want the warm air from the ceiling to mix with the rest of the room, but without the breeze, so you reverse it and the warm air descends around the sides of the room where you're less likely to feel the draft.

If yours is reversed, then I'd suggest looking a little harder for the switch. It's often on the fan itself when they have the pull chain. However, with yours, I'm going to guess it's on a separate controller. If it's not a dedicated button, you might have to hold a button for a few seconds or some other trick (this is why I never throw out manuals).


External GFCI Won't Reset Last night we had a good rain storm and an exterior GFCI outlet tripped. That outlet is controlled by a switch in my foyer and is used to turn walkway lights on or off. The test button of the outlet is depressed, and pressing the reset button doesn't do anything. It just springs back when pushed. The light on the GFCI outlet is illuminated. I checked the circuit breaker and it wasn't tripped, but I turned it off and back on anyway but that didn't change anything. Since this is an exterior outlet controlled by a switch I don't believe that there's anything downstream from it.

There are really only two likely possibilities here:

Broken GFCI

Repeated trips, dirt, water damage, insects, loose connections leading to arcing - there are a ton of reasons why a complex electronic device like a GFCI can fail. They are designed to fail safe when possible - i.e., off rather than on. If the GFCI has truly failed, the only fix is to replace it.
If you have to replace it, you may want to consider an inside location so that the outside receptacle is a simple receptacle and therefore less likely to fail due to weather and other "outside" problems. One possibility is to replace the switch with a GFCI switch like this one:

and then you can use a simple weather-resistant receptacle outside. Whatever you do, make sure you have a good in-use cover over the receptacle.

Water

It is quite possible that water got into the GFCI/receptacle in a way that it causes a ground-fault (which is why the GFCI won't reset) and doesn't quickly dry out. If that's the case, you can either remove it to dry it out or just wait a day or two. If after it dries out, everything works properly (TEST/RESET work and power only when the GFCI is not tested or tripped) then you are fine. In other words, the GFCI may simply be doing exactly what it is supposed to be doing.


smelling sink when using water after P-trap change I have just replaced dual bathroom sinks and installed new P-traps and faucets.
Now I have a smell when using the water in both sinks.
Can the P-traps not be properly leveled or installed?

The most likely cause would be syphoning, where the flow of water in the waste pipe empties the P-trap. This could be due to too small a diameter pipe and/or lack of vent in the pipework to prevent a vacuum caused by draining water. Did you change any other pipework apart from the P-traps?


Help with Kanto mount, 55" tv, and 24" between studs I want to mount my 55" tv (39.2 lbs) on a Kanto mount (https://web.archive.org/web/20170317095158/http://www.kantoliving.com/product/pdx680/) but the studs are spaced 24" apart. I've been doing some reading and from what I've gathered I'd have to use a 3/4" plywood to reinforce the gap and tv. Any suggestions on what I need?

Correction, the wall mount is the Kanto PDX650 (https://web.archive.org/web/20170418215212/http://kantoliving.com:80/product/pdx650 which is made for studs with 16") spacing not the PDX680. Sorry.

It is not uncommon to hang one studs that are 24" apart so.  I have a 60" TV hung on 24" studs.   As long as the steel mount is spanned across two studs and securely fastened to the studs (with lag bolts), you'll be fine.

Edit:
Well, now that your answer says the specs are only for 16" studs (and after reading the specs, it shows the wall plate is only 21"), then, NO, this won't work obviously.  You'll need a different wall plate that can accomodate the span of two studs.  I would not attempt to make this work unless you get crafty with a welder (it isn't worth it, buy a different plate).  You need it spanned across two studs, with very strong fasteners.  Considering this is a swivel out mount, it will put great stress on your fasteners, and they need to be lag bolts into studs.


Smelly water in my paint I left a 10ltr tin of smooth masonry paint outside last year I went to open it yesterday and discovered a crack in the lid,and when I opened it it was full of foul smelling water sitting  on top of the paint I poured off as much as I could but needless to say some went into the paint, if I paint my walls,will the smell go away or is this paint beyond saving?look forward to your advice.
I have heard white vinegar could help but not sure..

TLDR: Don't use dodgy or bad paint, it will cost you way too much in your time to fix the result.

The foul-smelling water is part of the paint, and you just wrecked the paint. It is foul-smelling because it contains things other than water, which perform a necessary function to curing the paint.  It won't work without it.  It is normal for paint components to separate out, leaving watery stuff at the top and solids at the bottom.  So your reflex should never be to "dump it off".

Although realistically, if you had a crack in the lid, the essential volatile chemicals in that paint will have dried out regardless, even if they were replaced by rainwater -- it is now no longer functional paint.

Also, do not leave paint where it will freeze or get hot from the sun, and if you did, throw it out because it will not be reliable.

Alternately, you have low-VOC latex paint which has turned moldy (the VOCs, now outlawed, did a pretty good job of arresting mold).  Anytime you get stinky paint, Do Not Use It because the stink will not go away.  We have plenty of questions like "I painted my house with stinky paint, now my house smells disgusting and it won't go away, I've tried everything, what do I do?"  The solutions are not easy.  In most cases, their motivation was to save money.

People forget the big cost of a paint job is not the paint.


What is this tube sticking out of my roof? I'm not sure what kind of vent this is for, but I'm wondering if its supposed to have a cap to protect from rain.

Sorry for lack of description. I'm completely ignorant to whatever this is.

If it helps at all, I have two turbines on my house plus this pipe.  So I know it's not for venting the attic. My guess is its for the bathroom vents maybe?

Almost certainly a vent for plumbing. It connects to the sewer, so it doesn't need a cap. It's highly likely there's a sink or other fixture nearly below it.


Rooms not at 69 F set temp It is 5 F outside; however, I have not had any problem with getting desired heat in rooms, until today.
We have gas heat in our house.
I hear water thru the hot water baseboard heaters in every room. Rooms are not making it to the set temp of 69 F

As fixer1234 suggests, your heating system is probably not designed to heat your house to 64 Fahrenheit degrees above the outdoor air temperature.

You can provide more heat by running incandescent lights in most rooms of your house. You can also find reasons to cook things that do not require running your kitchen exhaust fan more than usual.

To prevent this problem from happening in the future, you can improve the insulation of your house (such as by adding storm windows).  If there are any drafty parts of your house, you can seal cracks to minimize the drafts.

For example, Seattle's Energy Code mandates that builders design heating systems that can heat a house by 46 F° above the outside air temperature.  A typical house built to the 2006 Seattle Energy Code loses its heat as follows:

40% to intended draftiness ("Infiltration" or "Air Changes per Hour")
20% via the roof, basement floor, and basement walls
20% via doors and windows
20% via the remaining above-ground walls


Can I tile over old yellow mastic? I need to tile a floor in my house (concrete slab) where there was some vinyl tiles that were put down with some type of yellow mastic. Can I mortar and tile over this mastic or does the floor need to have this stuff scraped or stripped off first?

The holes/divits in the picture are from me removing carpet tack strips from the concrete that were put over the old flooring when the bathroom was carpeted (ick!).

You should scrape as much off as you can to prevent any interference with the mortar bond and to ensure the tiles will lay flat. I use a razor scraper like this:

P.S.- invest in a few packs of replacement blades.


Can I have multiple GFCIs on one circuit? I have a 70s kitchen with a very long countertop. I understand that I only need one GFCI to protect the downstream outlets (for example near the sink). However, I decided instead to install 3 separate GFCIs, by using pigtails going into the line connectors on each unit. While it may seem redundant, my goal is to make it convenient and clear for anyone in the house to understand which outlet tripped. My question is whether this is an okay setup.  20a circuit for 3 of the. 12-2 wire.

Yes, it is OK, assuming your work to pigtail everything is done correctly (hot, neutral, and ground all pigtailed, with the box also grounded if it is metal).  You can test each receptacle individually with others in on and off states to be sure.

I assume your location is North America based on the circuit capacity and nomenclature used for wire sizing.