What are the options for putting cabinets in front of receptacles? I'll be putting some base cabinets in my townhouse (northern Virginia), on an existing wall with several electrical receptacles. The receptacles are near the floor, as this is not a kitchen, and would be covered by the cabinets.
What are my options for dealing with those receptacles in a safe and code-compliant way? I'm not averse to moving them up if need be, so they'll sit above the new cabinets / countertop.

All junction boxes in use, whether with receptacles, splices, switches or other devices, must be accessible.
Move 'Em
This is probably the generally "best" answer. But it may involve significant work, depending on the type of wall. However, not only can receptacles not be covered, junction boxes can't be covered, even if they are only in use for a splice.
If a cable comes down from above, moving the receptacle up is easy.
If a cable comes up from below, you have a problem because you need to extend the existing cable. Normally you do that by splicing in an additional cable in the junction box. But that doesn't help here because now you have a junction box that still can't be covered. There are splices that are approved for in-wall use (i.e., not accessible) which may be an option.
Use 'Em
Depending on the type of cabinet, or specifically the type of cabinet back wall, you can:

Cut a large enough area in the cabinet back to make the junction box fully accessible. Essentially so that there is wall surface visible around the junction box cover plate, so that the junction box is really "in the wall" and not "inside a hole in the cabinet".
Cut the exact size of the junction box in the cabinet back and add a box extension so that you can mount the receptacles flush with the back of the cabinet. A little more work but will look much more professional.

Both!
With typical walls, you could use the receptacles below and it should be very easy to install receptacles above the counter and drop cable down to the lower receptacles. Pigtail each set of 3 wires (in, out, new) in the lower boxes, even if originally they had the normal in on one screw, out on the other screw.


How can I mount a projector to a concrete ceiling? I am in a dorm room and I am attempting to mount my projector and screen in my ceiling... As far as I can tell from just tapping the ceiling it is made of cinderblocks if that sounds right or something similarly tough.

I have absolutely no idea how to mount the projector and screen in the ceiling and would appreciate any help...

What tools would I use?
Since I don't own anything but a hammer and screw driver, would I be able to rent the tools? If so, where?

Berkeley, CA has a tool library for just this kind of rental.  Major home stores have rentals, and there are chains of rental shops like Hertz Rentals.

You'll need a drill, a masonry bit, and a concrete anchor.  Your local hardware store can supply the last two.  Each anchor will have a specified hole size.

The ceiling is almost certainly not cinderblock.  But it could be reinforced concrete, which is a good strong material to anchor to.


Does washing reduce asbestos? So I was doing some work in the garage a few months ago and dislodged about a lemon size chunk of what at the time I thought was just some old concrete which fell on me and left some dust on a sweatshirt I was wearing.

Fast forward a few months and it turns out it's most likely asbestos.

Main questions:

Does washing remove/reduce asbestos? This sweatshirt has been washed multiple times since this happened.
Is my washing machine and are any other clothes that were washed with the item above contaminated?

For question #1:

This link would appear to say yes.
However some other questions on this site seem to say no to #1 and yes to #2.

What is the correct answer?

The article that you linked to in your first bullet seems to be aimed at people who happen upon asbestos during day-to-day life by accident, one-off cases like in your experience. It is not meant to provide a guideline for people who work in the asbestos abatement industry.

The accepted answer linked to in your second bullet (and the question itself) is aimed towards people who are working with the removal of asbestos as a job. These people are in much more contact then a one-off small exposure such as your case. While the highlighted quote that was shared from the Australian government's guideline says that no clothing is to be washed in an worker's house (the employer should be taking care of this), the guideline also says:

  Laundering of asbestos contaminated protective clothing is not
  recommended, because decontamination cannot be guaranteed. The
  otherwise reusable coveralls etc should instead be disposed of as
  asbestos waste.

Again, this is the case for someone who is working with asbestos daily, their clothing will be highly contaminated.

If I was you, I would not be worried about the sweater or the other clothing being contaminated.


Cold feed through hot side of water heater? Edit: Based on response, I needed to clarify a few things...

I was recently trying to drain my hot water tank. I turned off the cold supply, opened up a few hot faucets, started draining, but it seemed as though it was taking forever, much longer than the 40-gallon capacity would need.

Convinced something was wrong, I detached the hot line, and then turned the house supply on - WITH THE TANK SUPPLY OFF - and cold water came gushing through the normally hot outbound side! Turned it back off, no more water. For a time, I became convinced the builder's plumber put the tank's supply cutoff on the wrong line.

With the house water turned off, the tank drained in just a few minutes. When I detached the cold line, then restarted the water, the cutoff line held (confirming that valve was not leaking), and cold inbound water continued to come out the normally hot outbound side.

I'm no plumbing expert, but the only thing I could infer is that supply water is jumping onto the hot side, and that would presumably only occur where the two would physically mix, such as in a single-handle faucet cartridge/pressure balancer. Is there some other possibility I'm missing?

It's because of a check valve on a shower diverter. when the check valve(s) get stuck open water can mix through with the valve off.

The check valves are behind the big red arrow in this picture

http://mtpundit.com


How to fill a 20lb BBQ Propane tank with LPG? LPG filling stations fit forklift tank filler valve threads (1-3/4 ACME) not standard 20lb BBQ tanks threads. The 20lb BBQ threads are male 1-5/16″ ACME (OPD) threads, however most adaptors fit on the inside like this device designed to refill 1lb tanks from a standard 20lb:

Where can an adapter be found to simulate a forklift tank filler valve?

If I understand correctly you want to adapt a 1" P.O.L. to a 1-3/4 ACME so that you can fill your BBQ propane tank with a different connector.

In that case you'd want something like this.

1-3/4" ACME to 1" POL Adapter

If you do get something like this, make sure it comes preassembled, or assemble carefully with yellow teflon or propane rated pipe dope.


What does R0/R1/R2/R3 stand for when referring to Robertson square screwdriver? I cannot find anywhere on the net what do these R0, R1, ... markings mean, sometimes they're referred as sizes, but then the detailed dimensions of an R1 and R2 screwdriver are listed as exactly the same.

Look at Table 1 in this reference, it gives the minimum and maximum dimensions for the square based on the screw sizes.  The maximum allowed dimensions of the square are as follows (including my conversion to mm):

Drive      Max dimension

0   -    0.0710 in     1.8 mm

1   -    0.0910 in     2.31 mm

2   -    0.1126 in     2.86 mm

3   -    0.1330 in     3.38 mm

4   -    0.1910 in     4.85 mm


Does "Suitable for use in open fixtures" mean not suitable for closed? Background:

I need to replace a couple bulbs in my apartment which are controlled by an "old" dimmer switch, which predates the advent of LED bulbs. My understanding is that I cannot use a dimmable LED bulb here, so I'm going for incandescent. If this is wrong, I will buy LEDs and the rest of this question is irrelevant. (previously it had CFLs, which seemed inappropriate and would flicker)

Bulbs: I got "Ecosmart" dimmable incandescent bulbs from Home Depot. 43W ("60W Replacement"). Natural light (I mention this because a similar model with a different light color has very different warnings on the back, including having an internal Halogen (!) which this does not mention, though it still may have for all I know).

Fixture: My fixture appears to say "660W 250V". (Does that sound right? I'm in the U.S.) so it sounds like I'm well within limits. It's on the ceiling, and it has a cover that I would describe as white and translucent, and encloses the bulbs completely. The fixture also has a silver sort of surface above the bulbs, presumably to insulate the ceiling from them.

I can attach photos of either if desired.

My concern is this:

Among the warnings on the back of the packaging is "Suitable for use in open fixtures". However it does not say "Insuitable for use in closed fixtures". Should I infer this? Am I in a danger of fire if I use this thing with the cover on? (Guy at Home Depot thought it over and ultimately concluded it should be fine, but I want to double check) Right now I have been using it with the cover off.

Thanks!

I think the "660W 250V" reference is to some specific part of the fixture - perhaps the socket. I find it highly unlikely that a US residential fully enclosed fixture would be rated (a) for 660W - that is way too much power == heat and (b) 250V - the ratings for lighting fixtures (as opposed to switches, timers, etc.) is typically for 120V.

Based on the info at Home Depot for this bulb, this appears to be designed for "table lamp, sconce, vanity, pendant" - all of them open. I wouldn't put a 40W or 60W (and this is in between) bulb into a totally enclosed fixture like you describe - that just does not sound like a good idea. In a very quick read of the page, I didn't see a reference to a full manual, but it sounds like "open" is code for "not closed".

In any case, 43W dimmable incandescent makes no sense at all. Incandescent bulbs are the cheapest in up-front cost. But it doesn't cost much these days to get dimmable LEDs. For example, these Cree bulbs also from Home Depot cost a little more but give you:

MUCH lower power consumption - 10W vs. 43W
MUCH longer life
More light - 815 lumens vs. 600 lumens

and specifically list enclosed fixtures.

About the only scenario (a bit of a stretch) where it would still make sense to worry only about the up-front cost and not about energy cost or replacement cost (both vastly lower with decent LED bulbs than with incandescent bulbs - lower energy costs and fewer replacements) is a builder who wants to put in everything as cheap as possible for profit. (And even then, putting LED bulbs everywhere would let the builder advertise the "energy efficient home").


Why does my boiler keep firing up? My boiler fires up but does it 4 times in a row and then does the same every hour. It's using a lot of money.

Should my boiler be doing this?

My landlord had a heating engineer out and he said it was normal. I've turned the radiators down and the thermostat on the boiler to see if that would help but it hasn't.

I don't know what to do and would like some advice please.

Many boiler control systems keep the boiler hot at all times (especially if the boiler is providing domestic hot water as part of its load) and that does have the logical effect that the burner fires on a regular basis, regardless of an actual call for heat, due to "standby losses" (the self-cooling of the hot boiler, requiring more heat to keep it at an elevated temperature so it's "ready to supply hot water as soon as you ask for it."


Is boiler connected up right The plumber connected the cold water pipe to the red colored valve on the boiler and the hot water output pipe to the blue valve. Is this correct?
 We are having problems with the hotwater. We get a little but then it stopped now it is just lukewarm.

No -- there is a "dip tube" attached to the inlet of the heater so the cold water coming in goes to the bottom and then up the heater as it is heated, with the hot port taking its output from the top of the heater.  When the plumber swaps the two, the cold water winds up having to sink down the heater on its own and the hot water is now being drawn from the bottom, which is what causes the lukewarm water you were seeing.

Call a more competent plumber and have them get the tank hooked up correctly.


Are radiator reflectors as effective as claimed? I recently completed a survey to determine the energy efficiency of my home. The results weren't great but got me thinking about the quick and affordable things I could do to improve things and hopefully reduce our outgoings on energy.

One thing that has come up a few times is the use of radiator reflectors. Energy companies recommend them and the UK Government has approved two for use, but I am a bit sceptical as to how good they are.

Wikipedia has a good article on the topic, indicating that a highly reflective surface would indeed reflect some heat back from behind the radiator out into the room. Great if it's true.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them and, having seen how easy they can be to install, how well Radflex ones perform.

As it turns out, the Wikipedia article itself actually points to some (albeit Radflex funded) reports.  The second report BRE shows ~45% reduction in heat lost to the wall behind the radiator.

Tables 4 to 11 of the BRE report show a range of figures to do with efficiency and energy saving. Table 4 shows the amount of energy you could save on an annual basis, broken down by the energy loss (insulation efficiency) of the wall:

Assuming an area of 1 meter per radiator and 10¢ per kWh (rough average of US price), you this will save $2-$9/year for each radiator.  However, these are all back-of-the-envelope calculations based on a study paid for by Radflek and they don't even have full distribution across the EU (let alone the US)5.  AFAIK, the heating hours are calculations done for climate emissions ratings, so it's a big average of heating of UK(?) homes.  Will a competitor be as efficient?  Is your wall going to leak heat the same as an averaging of a bunch of houses in another area?  Who knows!

So is it worth the $29 (£18) price for the minimum order of 6 reflectors to UK address?  I am personally placing a ~50% penalty on evaluating cost effectiveness (note that I even work on pro-climate change policy research).  So I would start to recoup the material losses after ~2 years.


Old Thermostat with just R and Y wires? UPDATE: this may be R and V, not R and Y, although I'm still not sure how it was set up.

I am replacing an old thermostat in my house (the house is from the 60s, I'm not sure how old the thermostat is). When I took the faceplate off, there are two wires. One, which is white, is hooked to a connection marked R. The other, which is red, is hooked to a Y connection.

Based on what I've read, Y is for central air. So I should be running connecting R and W wires for a two-wire connection. Is that right? Or should I connect these wires to the R and Y connection in the new thermostat.

Here's a picture-I marked the two connections as they're faded.

Old-style 2-wire thermostats are, de-facto, switches and switches doesn't have an 'order'. In new stat, if it is battery powered, is the same. In any case just connect R(H) and common (W). Anyway, if you wire the new stat wrong-way, worst case scenario is stat not working (no risk of rupture)


If my heat pump does not have a neutral, do I still need a neutral wire? I had a friend wire 10-3 line for a new heat pump. He connected the red and black conductor wires in the house to the 2-pole 60 amp breaker and the neutral white to the neutral bus bar. The outdoor disconnect box (pictured) has terminals for 2 conductor loads, a terminal that the neutral ends at neutral. The heat pump condensing unit only has 3 terminals (L1, L2, GRD).

My question is: why don't I have to run the neutral to the unit? Should I disconnect it from this terminal and breaker  neutral bus bar? My friend said I can land the ground to it but didn't explain why. Thank you for your help in this matter.

Neutral is not ground

That thing you are calling a "neutral bar" is bolted directly to the steel of the switch box.  It cannot be a neutral, it must be a ground.

Neutral is an active, live conductor that carries current under normal conditions.  It is normal for it to have "voltage drop", or more accurately "voltage rise".  Ground is a safety shield, and should never flow current except during fault conditions.

In your installation, your appliance does not use neutral.  Cap the wire off (Put a wire-nut on it) and wrap the nut with tape because they love to fall off single wires.  The stud you have neutral on, is for ground.  A neutral bar would be insulated from chassis, since we are anywhere but the main panel.

Conflating/interchanging neutral and ground defeats the purpose of running grounds.   People tend to get misled by a couple of things.

seeing the inside of a main panel where neutrals and grounds gaggle on the same bar.  That is an exception because the main panel is the one location where neutral is bonded to ground to assure the entire system's voltages doesn't float wildly and stays within 120V of earth (which puts neutral quite near earth).
dealing with 3-prong dryer and range connections where the neutral is attached to dryer frame. That is actually bootlegging ground, and is dangerous, except that it is legalized in those particular installations on the logic that the connections are so rarely disturbed.


How to Use GFCI Square Cover? I have a 4" square box which I'm going to put a GFCI outlet in.

I got one of the raised covers with a rectangular cutout for GFCIs.

However, the outlet itself doesn't sit flush with the cover. When I put it over the outlet, the screw holes at the top and bottom of the outlet stick out too far and prevents it from sitting flush. I know that I can remove the corner perforated tabs but there are still additional screw holes that stick out.

See circled in blue here:

Do I just bend the secondary screw holes back or something? Seems kind of weird because I've only read online about removing the tabs and not that second set of holes.

I just had to deal with that last week.  On an expensive rundown timer, no less!    The rectangle shape is Decora, and those outer screws hold Decora plate covers, which use an extreme outer position.   You have two choices:

bend or hacksaw them off.  Your device can never be used with a normal Decora cover plate.
dump the accursed raised cover (you certainly don't need the cubic inches) and go with a 1-gang mud ring for a 4" box.  This is flush, but has a 1/2" extrusion the size of a 1-gang box.  This has the space needed.     And then you use a plain Decora cover plate, which needs those threaded holes.  If you need dual Decora, they make 2-gang mud rings too.

src


Vertical crack in exterior wall - visible on both sides I have a nearly 3 year old house that has developed a crack in an exterior wall.  The crack is vertical, runs from first story ceiling to floor, and is visible on both the inside and outside.

Is this something I should be concerned about or is it likely due to settling of the house?

I have included photos.

This could be from settling or from when it was built and took this long to crack the stucco and paint finish. At this point I'd monitor it to see if it gets worse. I would be proactive and get some Siliconizer and brush it on both sides of the crack to prevent any moisture from seeping through the crack and seams of the block.


Is a roof sprinker a good idea? I live in an area where temperatures often reach 95°F (35°C). I have attic fans and soffet vents and radiant barrier. Is it worth adding a roof sprinkler? I have read about it working wonders for attic temperatures. I have a well, so plenty of water...

I have also heard that high temperatures reduce the lifespan of shingles--but water probably does too. I don't know which is worse for shingles: water or heat.

Before I remodeled my house to have vents and radiant barriers and lots of insulation, I did put a water misting system on my roof using PVC pipes and drip mist emitters. The mist emitter was helpful because it broke up the water into a fine mist and sent it into the air, giving me evaporative cooling before the water even touched the roof. Also I had some of the emitters overhang the roof to give some cooling to the side of the house.

It all did the job as expected and the areas where the water mist existed received a great deal of cooling.

However after running the system for the summer, I saw a lot of roof shingle granules in the rain gutters.

The continual flow of water, even though I limited the flow so that most of it evaporated, caused about 10 years worth of wear on my roof shingles. Not a problem for me, I tore the whole house down the next year and built a brand new house. With modern insulation (I did upgrade the attic insulation to beyond code requirements), I almost never even need to use the new AC.

Here is the emitter:
http://www.orbitonline.com/products/Sprinklers/03/13/19/934/


Sump Pump runs several times a day every day rain or shine I am looking to buy a house that has a French Drain and a sump pump installed.  The basement is dry but the sump pump is constantly pushing what I assume is ground water out.  This occurs several times an hour every day rain or shine.  Is there another solution that will prevent this constant flow of water.

There should be a check valve on the out take pipe after the pump. This prevents water from backing up into the pump and starting the cycle all over again.


How can I repair a plastic dowel in a cabinet How can I repair a plastic dowel in a cabinet in which the hole is compromised as in the picture pls.

Use an appropriately sized plastic wall anchor, cut down to match the depth of the hole:

Instead of the large fastener designed for the original plastic plug, use a short self-tapping sheet metal screw, as large as will fit the hole in the hinge base. Put wood glue in the hole prior to inserting the anchor and screwing it all together.


Mask for Cutting Hardie Board Is there a standard mask to protect the lungs when cutting Hardie board?  While specifics masks suggestions are appreciated, I am trying to understand how to avoid sub-standard masks and avoiding injury.
For additional context see Can I use this blade to cut Hardyboard?

Assuming you are talking about HardieBacker cement board, the manufacturer's SDS (Safety Data Sheet) recommends using an N-95 (minimum) respirator/dust mask. But there are other best-practices for preventing exposure to the dust (the dust contains crystalline silica).


GFCI outlet trips when one one device is plugged in even when it is off I have a water circulator that worked fine plugged in the GFCI outlet in the bathroom. Currently the GFCI trips anytime the water circulator is plugged in even when the water circulator is turned off. Plugging it while off trips the GFCI. I checked the plug and device, they appear dry. Other devices don’t trip the outlet.

If it's tripping the GFCI it is almost certainly defective.  you could ask a second GFCI for a second opinion.


Is a GFCI necessary for a dishwasher? I'm wiring in a new dishwasher.  Now that everything is done, I find out that the breakers for my box are not made anymore.  I'm direct wiring it so it will be a dedicated circuit except the garbage disposal will be piggy backing on it.

When my breaker box was designed they didn't have GFCI.  I was able to get a 15amp circuit breaker on Ebay.

MY Q is can I run the dishwasher direct without a GFCI, or should I direct wire an outlet box and then put in a GFCI outlet and plug in the dishwaser and disposal.

PS: The wiring is buried behind the dishwasher and only accessable by pulling out the dishwasher.

If I did have to do an outlet, does the outlet have to be exposed or can I bury it behind the dishwasher.

According to current code GFCI are required.
They make units that can be wired dead face GFCI to feed devices not accessible. I have used these under 20$ units in 4 maybe 5 jobs that have passed code inspection on remodels.


What size dowels to use for joints? I'm comfortable with the process of creating and joining wood with dowels, but I'm not sure what size dowels to use in which cases? Specifically, I'm working with 1" thick stock (3/4" actual), what size should I use?

What are the other sizes and lengths of dowels used for?

Are there any recommended grouping or spacing for wood dowels?

The best work I know of on the topic was written by Tage Frid (see http://amazon.com).
The approximate rule-of-thumb, iirc, is to use a dowel no more than 3/8 the thickness of the wood to be joined (and not less than 1/4 the thickness).
Expansion
For example, if you are joining 5/4 boards (finished thickness 1"), the dowels should be between 1/4" and 3/8" in diameter.
Likewise, if joining finished thickness 3/4" boards, use between 3/16" and 9/32" diameter dowels.
This presumes, of course, you're joining the boards on the narrow dimension (e.g. making a door frame).


How to do modern interior window trim (extension jamb)? I have traditional interior window trim in my bedroom:

and want to replace them with extension jambs for a more modern look:

I’ve never done window trim and have never worked with drywall before but have seen a couple of great tutorials.
The reveal on my window measures 2”-2.5”. I’m pretty confident I can tear up the old trim, install corner beads if the drywall edges/corners are unfinished, lay down two coats of drywall compound (basically do a drywall return), and then cut-to-fit the extension jambs.

But I’m wondering how to get uniform spacing between the extension jambs and window frame.
Any additional tips? This project seems straight forward enough but I’d just like to cover my bases.

If the look you want is modern trimless, be careful on how you remove the jamb extensions. It looks like the window jamb may go over the wood jamb extensions.
You will not need to add drywall to the returns. Add plywood instead, this way you can add 3/4" 1/2" or 1/4" where needed and add shims if things are at an angle. Then add your corner bead to that, or even this...
Image courtesy Lowes
That way when the finished wood jamb is in place, the reveal, will be consistent all the way around and the dimension you wish to see.
When adding plywood or solid wood fillers you may need to keep it flush with the existing drywall to give either the corner bead or L bead some backing since it will be difficult to add a small sliver of drywall to the edge. It would be unnecessary to cut back the drywall, just to add more.
The L bead has a raised edge so the nail heads are below the raised edge so the nail heads do not get into the finish. This would all depend on what you have to work with. The standard corner bead may be the better choice.


Frigidaire washing machine's agitator does not spin, but the drum spins. What could be the issue? Have a Frigidaire fex831fs4 washer and dryer combo where washer has following symptoms:

when washing machine is off, the agitator can be freely turned by hand both directions.
when washing machine is on, the agitator does not agitate, but the drum does spin.

I found that common cause for these symptoms (at least for other brand washers) is that agitator dogs are worn.

However, on my washer parts list, I can't find such part.

My questions:

Do Frigidaire washers have agitator dogs at all?
If not, then is the agitation controlled by transmission for my Frigidaire washer?

The "agitator dogs" are protrusions on the agitator that couple it to its drive shaft.

Often one side of such a coupling is made of plastic that self destructs when it gets jammed to avoid stalling and damaging the motor. (That it creates planned obsolescence is just a bonus).

So the part you need is either a new agitator or a new transmission.


How long should I recharge my drill's batteries? I have a Black & Decker EPC128 12V cordless drill. It has two batteries. Since the recharger has no light or indicator on it, I never surely understand whether the battery is partly/fully charged or overcharged. How long exactly should I recharge the batteries? The tool is something like this:

I have found the original instructions on this page.

  After approx. 3 hours of charging, the battery will be sufficiently
  charged for use in regular applications. After approx. 8-10 hours of
  charging, the battery will be fully charged.

After a few lines, it says:

  After normal use, a charging time of 3 hours will provide sufficient
  power for most applications. However, further charging for up to 6 hours
  could significantly increase the use time, depending on the
  battery and charging conditions.


Is my septic tank leaking? I have a 1000 gal plastic septic tank about 25 ys old that drains into a seepage pit. When I am away for 3 weeks the water level drops about 6 inches below the output drain pipe. I fill it back up and it seems to hold the proper level. Is this normal because of evaporation and solids breaking down or do I have a leak? The kitchen sink and toilet with a two gallon flush are the only connections to the tank.

Very interesting question.  My first thought is that dropping 6 inches in 3 weeks is not really normal in a sealed system, but not a condition to be alarmed about.  The goal of any inground leaching system is to exit solid free water to a sandy bed to filter and absorb into the grounds.
It is very difficult to determine if you have a crack or breach in your tank without inspecting it when empty and cleaned. Usually my septic subs will drain the tank, clean the bottom enough to look for a displacement crack or root infiltration. It is rare that we go to that extent unless there is evidence of effluent waste water surfacing on the ground. This is evident by soggy ground and a foul smell.

If you do have a minor leak towards the bottom of your tank, it really isn't causing any real harm as the waste water is just taking a short cut. As long as you don't have the symptoms of failure, I wouldn't worry to much right now.  Many old systems actually used just a leaky tank without a leach field. This was common on small lots in areas of sandy soils that drained well.

As long as your septic tank is far enough away from a well used for potable water, contamination should not be a problem.  If you do use a well, a water test might be a good idea if the tank is in closer proximity than the leach field.


Smart Energy Tracking / Metering Receptacle Outlet I am searching for a power receptacle outlet that tracks and reports energy usage like a KillAWatt device but looks like a regular receptacle and connects to my WiFi so I can access it via phone app.

The closest item to what I was looking for is an Insteon Remote Control On/Off Outlet but it does not have the ability to track energy usage.

Does anybody know of a power receptacle outlet (in wall) that can do this?

Thanks in advance.

iDevices Switch is a point of use power meter. With the app you can toggle the power to the device and access the energy consumption. It doesn't require a IoT Hub, it will connect directly to your WiFi network, but it will also work with Apple HomeKit.

Elgato Eve Energy is another point of use power meter. With the app you can toggle the power to the device and access the energy consumption. It needs a Apple HomeKit (other IoT Hubs may work too), because it only has Bluetooth LE for connectivity and can't connect directly to your WiFi network.

Unfortunately the first two options don't look like a regular electrical receptacle. I'm not sure if that product exists for a point of use power meter. You would need to install something at the main breaker box to keep everything inside the walls:

Sense is an option for whole house energy consumption. It works by installing CT clamps around the power mains at the breaker box. It can identify large appliances like washing machines, electric dryers, dishwashers, and electric ovens based on the current "fingerprint" that it detects. This would be invisible to the end user, but doesn't fit your needs.

If you needed more detail than that, another option is the TED Pro Spyder. This works similarly to the Sense, but you add CT clamps to each individual circuit instead of just the mains. This will narrow down the usage to an individual circuit, but still not get you to the level of data you're looking for unless you run dedicated circuits for each device you want to monitor.


Two Black wires and 2 red wires behind outlet We recently redid a bathroom and have an outlet on the wall it is not a switched outlet we wanted to put a GFI there and when we pulled the Outlet noticed no White Neutral wire just 2 reds and two blacks in disconnecting the outlet it and turning power off the majority of my home stays not powered  this is and older home and no electrical work in my knowledge has been done since the home was built  is it possible to hook a GFI to this type of wiring?  The bigger problem is also showing its horns i dont think the whole home should run through this one outlet.

Side note the home has a main panel and a sub panel with the sub panel running the majority of things

You can map out all the circuits and count up the number of outlets and lights on this one to see how many there actually is, but it might not be a big deal.  Older homes tend to have fewer outlets because they didn't have as complex codes back then.  My parents have a similar house, and I think all the lights and outlets are on only 2 or 3 different fuses (not even a breaker box...)

If the house was built in the 50's and all the wiring is original, I'm surprised you can tell what color the wires are.  I don't know all of the "standards" back then, but it would seem they used red for neutral in at least some places in your house.  You should open up the breaker box to get a better idea of whats going on (with the power off) and also test the wires in that outlet box to make sure that black isn't neutral.  Over the years some DIY'er could have messed things up even more.

GFI can be installed without a ground, but again, make sure you know which is hot and which is neutral.  Also, I wouldn't wire up "the rest of the house" to the load terminals of that GFI outlet, so you may have to wire nut your reds and blacks and pigtail off of that to go to the outlet in the bathroom.  That extra wire and the extra size of the GFI outlet might also mean that you need a deeper outlet box - don't try to cram everything in there, especially with old wires that will have brittle insulation.


What to do on the siding around a cable going into the house I had AT&T Fiber installed today. The technician had to create a hole on the side of my garage for the fiber optics cable. As you can see, it doesn't look pretty. But I'm not really concerned with aesthetics since it's not visible from the road. I'm worried about water going in. There's no drip loop, so I can see the water just following down the cable. Any tips on what kind of products I can use to clean this up and waterproof? Thanks!

Wow, he didn't really care much about craftsmanship. No drip loop sucks; see if there is any slack where you could pull it down a bit into a gentle loop and use a zip-tie to hold the shape (don't kink it). Really all I can see you doing is globbing silicone sealant around it; use the paintable type and maybe you could make it look a bit better by painting the glob once it has cured.

They make split wall bushings you could use to dress it but you would still need the glob of silicone to prevent water intrusion.


Want to install Japanese style unit bath/bathtub. Trimming a joist a bad idea? I am asking myself if there is any way possible to lower the bathroom floor level without causing damage to the floor.
So I am researching if it is any way possible to install a Japanese unit bath system, which basically is a shower in a (deep) tub but completely isolates itself from another room, in a typical American housing.
Here's an example:
This type of bath system is commonly used in a regular household in Japan, and major companies like Toto and Panasonic sell the bathroom system/room as a whole as a set, which their contractor can build it together for customers (hence the name "unit" bath).
One key feature of it is the depth of its tub. In general, their tub is much deeper than one in the US as it is designed for soaking and relaxing. Thus, their unit bath system is generally designed to lower the bathtub floor height to accommodate with the bathroom floor level.

As you can see in the above illustrations, look how its ground level is lower than the bathroom floor by 197mm and 450mm respectively, and this brings back to the question above.
Obviously, one solution is to make it for a basement bathroom so I can dig up a hole and don't have a joist to worry about, but say if I don't have one. Another option would be simply to place the system directly on the ground floor and live with 7 3/4" steps, but I was hoping for a better solution. Not to mention, there would be a tub that holds 110gal + person's weight. Trimming a joist seems just too much of a risk to me... Any thought anyone?

Short answer is no way.   You aren't trimming you are taking out the joists there.  It wouldn't even work with a 20 pound tub and a 100 pound person.    Also if it is a no the step option shouldn't be an option.   I have seen this on many a house and what the hell do you do at the top of the step, dive in the tub?   I am rather tall and have dealt with it, can't imagine someone shorter or older.   Not to mention making this look luxurious is almost impossible with the step method.   I have never seen it done where I was like "wow that looks nice".
Long answer yes you can do anything with enough money.   If your joists are parallel to the tub it is a bit cheaper (probably) and you can simply have an adequate header installed to carry the joist load.   Now I have no idea what is below this part of your basement but you may need a pole or a wall or whatever.   With enough money thrown at it an architect can design a way to carry the load for sure.   This could range in as little as 2k up to 10-12k (plus maybe an out of place wall/pole).
If I had already bought this and can't return it, it would unfortunately go in my basement.   I can't see paying for something like that, having it installed quirky, and then effecting other parts of my house.


Can an extension cord be used to permanently power an outside sump pump? Can an extension cord be used to permanently power an outside sump pump in a pit?
Can the extension cord be tucked under siding for protection and better look? Nothing would be used to hold extension cord in place just pressed in place.

Use of flexible cords and cables are covered in the NEC in Article 400. In this article 400.8 Uses not permitted 400.8 (1) As a substitute for a fixed wiring of a structure and 400.8 (5) Where concealed by walls, floors, or ceilings or located above suspended or drop ceilings.

Flexible cords can be used as outlined in 400.7 (A) (6) and (7). Think of uses permitted as a "no longer than 6' rule" which is usually accepted by the AHJ.

So in short according to your question no. Also running electrical in and exposed to weather you have to worry about deterioration of the insulation. If that doesn't satisfy your question I would also like to point out that this is one of the major causes of electrocution in the US.


Sanding a Home Depot Stair Tread I purchased a stair tread from Home Depot that I wanted to use as a window sill. I think it's red oak. I stained several already and the stain didn't come out as nicely as I would have hoped. There were defects where the stain showed up in tiny scratches that were invisible to the eye. Also, the wood seems flat however very frequently the grain seems somewhat torn out, probably from when they cut the wood originally. It's hard to describe w/out a picture and my camera isn't that good. The grain is uneven and has tiny little dips all over it.

Is this "torn" grain something that I can eventually sand out? I've been sanding for a while w/ a random orbit sander, 80 grit sheet, and it doesn't seem to be making any difference. I'm sure polyurethane will cover it and it will still look good, but I'm trying to be a perfectionist here.

mj

Yes it is something you can sand out. Be careful you only have about an 1/8" of material to work with and with aggressive sanding that can "burn through" quickly.

You will need to sand all the imperfections out with the 80G move up to 100 or 120G when you have the surface to your satifaction with the 80G. After all the sanding marks from the 80 is gone, change the grit again to 150g and remove all the marks left by the previous grit. You can check your progress of removing the scratches from the previous cut by marking the surface with a pencil and sand until the pencil goes away. I use a large "S" pattern to cover the area with marks about 2" apart, you could do the same with straight lines too. Some people say the graphite is "chased into the grain" and makes more sanding happen than needed. I have not had that problem with oak, pine yes. You could wet the surface you sanded with a fast drying compound that acts like a temporary finish so the scratches show up for a short while. Denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner comes to mind here, but then you have fumes and getting blowed up problems to contend with.

One last important note about oak. It's hard and softwood sand differently, and because of that nature, it will create an irregular surface to the perfectionist eye. The soft pad of a random orbit sander exaggerates this nature. IMHO, it is a little late to flatten it out, the sanding would have been better with a sanding block by hand and not machine. Machines have no discretion as to how much material it removes and where it removes it.


What is the correct router bit for cutting shapes out of plywood I built my own small CNC router ( from a kit ) I'm going to be cutting some 1/4" plywood, basically just cutting shapes out of it, and I was wondering, what is the best router bit for simply making shaped cuts through plywood with as little router width as possible .. is there a specific bit for that?

I think that for what you're describing, a simple 1/4" shank straight bit is what you want.  If you use the up-spiral type, it will clear sawdust better.  I don't know if that will make a difference with your setup, you'd have to experiment with your CNC, test to see what speeds work best with which bits for different materials.


Sealing middle of sliding window with portable air conditioner installed In my bedroom I have a one hose portable AC unit, because my only bedroom window is a sliding window. Currently, I set up the window kit in the day and take it out before bed. The reason for this is because of the road noise at night from the street the window faces.
To seal the window kit I am using foam pipe insulation around the edges, which works quite well. The main source of noise, however, is coming from the opening between the two sections of window in the middle. When the window is closed, the middle frame of the sliding section seals  against the other frame, blocking out any noise.

When the window is open, there is a gap created (approx 49 1/2" tall, 3/8" wide).

My first attempt at sealing the gap was to use half a section of foam pipe insulation jammed into the gap, which does block out some noise (and outside air) from getting in, but still not to a level where I can sleep comfortably with it installed in the window.
So, my question is what would be a good way to seal the gap?

I had this same problem and ended up using some foam piping I found in the window seal section at the home improvement store. The next best thing I could think of was cutting some foam to the exact fit of the window, compressing it before you open the window, then opening the window onto it, moving the foam into place as needed. If you use sound proofing foam, you might get a noticeable drop in noise. Other than that, I'd buy some good ear plugs.


2 x Wire Lines in Ceiling Electrical Box - 2 White/2 Black - 3 of them are always hot I took down an old large chandelier to replace it with a new smaller one. It took a few weeks to repair the ceiling and find a new chandelier and I didn't take a photo of the original wiring setup.

Now that I am ready to put our new chandelier up, I noticed that there are two lines in the box, each with a white, black and ground cable. I tried connecting both blacks to the chandelier black and both whites to the chandelier white, but that just kept the light on all the time, and the switch did nothing.

Using a line tester, I noticed that both blacks and one of the whites are always hot, whether the switch is on or not.

Can anyone help me figure out the proper connections?

I opened up the light switch and now I'm even more confused. There are two switches connected to what seems to be one three pole line. One switch (right) is for the chandelier and the other switch is for two adjacent recessed lights.

Both switches are single pole. The one with the red wire is going to 1 fixture, and the one with the white is going to a second based on the photos with the hot being the common black. A non-contact volt meter may show power on the wires that is not really there with a load. This is called inductive coupling and happens when a hot wire is run in close proximity to a second wire (this is how transformers work).

This won't be too hard to figure out. Notice that one of the cables black white & ground come in together. With the power turned off connect both blacks together and the light fixture to the 2 whites. Turn the breaker on and the light switch on the right hand side will control this light.

If you would like to figure out the true feeder with the power off connect a light to 1 set of black & white wires of the same cable if the light comes on with the power restored this is the feeder. If the light doesn't come on this is a switch loop and the black is usually tied to the hot or line side of the feeder and the return from the switch is on the white.


Sanding floors where radiators interfere We have radiant heat with approximately 8 " high metal radiators hanging off the lowest portion of some of the walls.  How would/could I use an edge sander?  Or do I just get as close as I can with the main sander and call it good enough?

I thought I’d seen this question before on this site but I can’t find it

There is a sander made specifically for this problem

Check with a floor finishing tool rental place. It is called a radiator edger or a toe kick edger sander.


Is this pipe layout acceptable? We recently had our heater and air conditioner replaced, and now the drainage pipe is installed on the floor of the basement. It's quite annoying and it wasn't like that before (it was on the walls near the ceiling).

Is this layout acceptable (standard practice), or should we ask for it to be re-done?

Well, it's certainly not pretty. But going to a floor drain rarely is, unless the drain happens to be positioned remarkably conveniently.

An alternative would be to drain into a small container with a pump, whose output could be routed as needed. That's what was done in my house. This does require providing power to the pump, of course, but since I have a condensing boiler it actually has an outlet for that pump built into it.


What can cause an A/C to freeze up Our A/C evaporator coil freeze up last year, so I called out a technician.
He said that it was charged with the proper amount of Freon, and my problem [paraphrased] "something had narrowed the inside of the coil", and said that "cleaning the coil would be a waste of money since that would cost ~$900 (uncharge, take out, clean, reinstall, recharge), and a new A/C is only $1800".

My BS alarm was going off at the time and I'm going to get a second opinion, but in the mean time:

Q1: Can a coil go bad in the manner he described?

Q2: I know in the system there should be only Freon and lubricating oil, but can you figure out if there's any contaminates ?

Mine was freezing over and not cooling the house. I had recently replaced the filters so I made sure all the vents were open. I noticed there was no airflow so I checked the A/C coil up in the attic... I pulled the panel off and  it was completely blocked by lint. I used a wide vacuum brush and sucked all the crud off and now there's airflow again and the house is cooling down as I write this.
Cost, sweat! lots of sweat!


Proper way to install Torch Down On the recommendation of a gutter installer I hired a roofer to install torch down over the front porch awning. The gutter installer pointed out that the person who did the awning didn't do it right because they put the shingles under the drip edge instead of on top of it.  The awning is relatively flat and had a much cheaper grade of roofing than the main roof.

I hired a roofer to install torch.  The agreement I had with the roofer was that there would be 3/4" overhang all the way around the porch awning, which has a 56' square foot surface.  Upon completion, I noticed that he shorted the overhang on one side and one side has no overhang at all.  Is this a problem?

Additionally one of the corners doesn't appear to have been heated up enough and it is loose, and not making contract with the metal drip edge.  This is in the same area where there is no overhang.  The roofer said he detected a soft spot while working on the roof, but made no mention of it until after it was completed.  After pointing out the soft spot, I took a chisel and determined there was dry rot about 1/2" through the top of one of the rafters and adjacent plywood.  Additionally a fascia board in the corner was completely rotted out and will need to be replaced.  The roofer recommended I use wood filler to fill in the fascia board, even though there was nothing left of it.  And I wonder why the roofer didn't mention and repair the rot before boarding over. I assume the fascia needs to be redone, but what about the rafter with 1/2" of rot at the top, and the adjacent area that rot.  I scraped some of the dry rot out and decided to let it sit for a few days to dry out until I can figure out what to do about all this.  The torch down was applied over the existing shingle material.  A drip edge was installed over that, and another layer of torch was applied over the drip edge, but about 1/2 of one side has no overhang.  The bottom side of the awning appears to have sufficient overhang.

I need additional information.  I don't know what you mean by scab out 2".  Are you referring to scabbing out 2" on the rafter?  Or 2" in adjacent plywood?  Or 2" on the opposite side of the rafter?  Does the torch need to come off?  Also, I had made a mistake and the torch was applied over compound 90 in a two layer approach:  one layer under the drip edge, and one layer above the drip edge.

For starters, torch down is a rubber product. It should NOT be installed over asphalt shingles. Swelling and contracting will eventually allow the asphalt shingles to wear a hole in the torchdown membrane from the underside. The same applies for rubber membranes.

You are correct about the drip edge needing to be under the roofing material. This applies to ALL roof coverings.

Your roofer should have mentioned the soft spot prior to covering it up. That's complete irresponsibility. Roofers typically don't repair facia but it shouldn't be beyond a decent roofers skill set.

As for what the rafter you need repaired... Unless there's access from below, a portion of your new touchdown will need to be removed, along with the decking above. Unless the rafter is totally rotted out, I'd scab another 2x to the side of the rafter in question instead of removing it completely.

Additional details per OP questions:

The recommended overhang for torch down is 1/2".

For roof pitches below 12/4 torch down or rubber are my recommendation.

To my knowledge, it's not standard practice to double up material around the drip edge.

Since I'm unsure what your rafters are, I used a generic term "2x" ( pronounced 2 by ), which can mean anything from 2x2 to 2x12.

Yes, if there's any bad decking it should be replaced, but it can be spot fixed from rafter to rafter.

Additional Info

Decking is a generic term... Meaning your roof deck ( sheathing ). Spot fixing means cutting out the bad decking from rafter center to rafter center.

I've never heard of Timbor. I ALWAYS replace rotten/dry rotted decking.

To repair the damaged rafter, screw or nail a new rafter to the side of the bad one.


Can I use 14/3 wire to connect a new switch on a branch in a 4-way circuit? I have a 4 way switching dilemma. A new box and 14/3 wire was added to one of the boxes in the middle of the run. Can I make all of the switches work without rewiring the whole thing?
If need be I can change the 14/2 wire from the light to run to box 3 instead of box 1 - Other changes are major! THANKs - here's the drawing showing the current wiring runs (only) - Tell me what switches I need and how to connect them please..

You'll need something a bit fancier than a standard switch to bail you out of this mess

With standard four-way switches, a mid-loop spur like the one between boxes 2 and 3 would require a /4 cable instead of the /3 you've run.  However, a more sophisticated system like the Lutron Maestro can handle this without a hitch: simply replace the switch in box 1 with a MA-S8AM and the rest of the switches with MA-AS'es.  These can work with only a line, a load, and a single interconnect wire connecting the accessory switches together, which allows for the mid-loop spur you have to be run with the cable already in the wall.


Minimum bedroom size - 7 foot in any horizontal direction I'm remodeling a basement and trying to determine if a particular layout would violate code. I am in a 2015 IBC/IRC jurestiction.

This blog indicates that the bedroom must be

  At least 7’ in any horizontal direction

And similar statements are made on other sites. But what does that mean?

Does this mean that a 7x7 foot square must be able to fit in the room?
A 7 foot diameter circle must fit?
Some other interpretation?

Sketch of room if it helps. Apolgies for the quality and lack of scale.
The diagonal dashed line measures 8.6 ish feet, so from point A you could swing a 7 ft rod 90 deg without hitting the wall.

PS this is a permitted project and the bedroom is planned to be compliant in all other ways already. I would ask my county, but called too late to catch the plan reviwer before they all left for Christmas.

Whether you can make your space work or not, remember code requirements for a second exit besides the door- like an egress window, to get out in case of fire, etc. The Minimum escape area is 5'7" sq. ft.; with the  min. opening height is 24" high, and the width is 20". Also the sill has to be a maximum of 44" off the floor.
As far as the weird shape of the room, maybe you can go for a variance.


Is it possible to add a water storage tank to fridge that doesn't have one? I have a Whirlpool fridge model WRS325FDAM. I'm told it does not come with a water storage tank inside of the firdge that will keep the water line cool when dispensing out of the fridge. Is it possible to add one and if so, what parts do I need?

The simplest answeris to get a container with a dispenser tap and put it in the fridge. I use one of the larger Brita filtered containers, but similar things are available from several companies. This does take up some fridge space, and requires opening the door to pour yourself a glass of water. On the other hand, the added thermal mass of the water may improve the refrigerator's efficiency.

(Yes, I've been pondering what it would take to convine a manufacturer to sell me a unit with cold water tap but no ice maker. Or to create my own.)


What is the best way to replace a large section of 3/4" plastered drywall? I had some water damage at the base of a wall. I ended up tearing out the bottom half of the wall, about 55" high. I now need to close it back up.

The wall that I tore out is about 3/4" thick. It looks like it is 3/8" drywall with a healthy dose of plaster on top. What's the best way to butt another sheet of drywall up to it?

I have never plastered before, so I'd like to avoid that as much as possible. I'm thinking that I can just put some 1/4" shims/plywood on the studs, then screw some 1/2" drywall to it. The only question that leaves open is joining the edge of the drywall to the plaster.

The edge of the plaster that is still in place is not terribly clean. It's ok in some places, and other places it will leave a ~1" gap when I butt the new drywall against it. I'll assume that I'll need to fill in the gaps. Will joint compound suffice here, or should I pick up a small batch of plaster?

(As an aside, I should add that most of this work will be hidden behind cabinets. Only the top few inches of the work will ever be visible.)

Spend the time to clean the edge of the plaster so it is straight, this will save you time and make those top two inches that will be visible look nice.  I personally would use a heaver drywall (5/8) to closer match the original and use thinner shims (they sell a cardboard like shim for drywall).  Butt the new drywall up the cleaned up line and make sure to use a drywall tape to interface the old to the new.  If you don't, the two will surfaces will form cracks between them.

You say the top two inches are the part that will show, but that will also be the hardest and most critical two inches to get right.  Drywall and plaster are two skills where experience makes huge difference in the quality of work.  It doesn't hurt to get an estimate from a couple of guys and compare that to the amount of time it will take you (plan on taking three times the amount of time as a pro)


What is the correct slope for a deck, and why? I am building a deck (12' wide) and see that deck boards (at least when perpendicular to the house) should be sloped away from the house so water will run away from the house.  Seeing numbers for the slope from 1/8" to 1/4":

per foot
per three feet
per twelve feet
per (unspecified)

Is there a 'correct' value or range of values as such?  What makes it correct?
Does it vary based on (what) conditions?
Perhaps a higher slope for composite decking that tends to sag?
Note:  a one degree slope would be 0.209" per foot.

I’d use 1/8” per foot slope because 1) it’s enough to actually allow water to run off, and 2) the deck will “appear” flat

You don’t want standing water on your deck. It can cause rot, etc. I live where we get a ton of rain. It’s important to get rid of water on wood, etc. on the exterior of a home.

When you look at the deck, it will appear flat AND your soup bowl will not spill when you place it on a table.


Should I replace my roof or just fix it? Has anyone done their roof by themselves?

I have a long term plan of building upwards (a second floor on top of my 1939 Cape Cod).  Problem is I may not be able to do this right now but my old roof already leaks.  It has two layers of shingles and I was told by roofers that it needs to be replaced soon.  I don't want to spend a bunch of money for a new roof if I'm going to be destroying it relatively soon (in a few years?).  So my options are to replace the roof myself or to just fix the leaks.  There are missing shingles and some soft planks and some leaks around the chimney but that's about it.

What should I do?

Everyone has given good advice, but the ultimate decision is probably going to depend on the total cost and real time before you plan to add a full second story. I have done dozens of roofs in my time and can give you the following considerations.

A new roof is probably going to cost you around $300 to $350 per square (10ftX10ft or each 100 square feet) for a complete strip, 6 feet of ice/water shield and new 30 yr shingles. Not knowing the size of your roof and pitch, I can't give you a real good guess, but a simple 24X30 cape with a chimney, no crickets or tricky valleys usually runs around 3 to 4 grand. Any good roofer is going to insist that any damaged or rotting roof shiething be replaced while it is stripped, adding more cost. Don't count on using the old roof structure when you remodel. Raising a roof under a new wall system can be very expensive and I suspect you have an original rafter system and board sheithing. Your new roof will want to be of the newest materials and techniques such as trusses, tounge and grove sheathing, soffit and ridge vents etc. A second story is a huge investment and in my humble opinion, very wise to do it all new.

As far as possible repairs to your old existing roof, you may be able to replace some shingles in the field easily, and repair the leaks around the chinmey with a good coat of blind nailing cement or even remove a couple of feet of shingles and treat the area with Grace ice and water shield then reshingle that small area. Obviously, we can't see or judge the general condition or continued life expectancy of the existing roof. I would strongly suggest you stop the water ASAP as Tester is right on saying a couple years of water can cause you a lot of other problems. Good Luck


Can a termite inspection report declare a house irreparable? (This question assumes a reputable pest control company.)

If a home termite report finds issues in need of repair, is it safe to assume the integrity of the house is intact after those repairs are completed (at least as far as termite damage is concerned)?

How would we know from a termite report if termites have "totaled" a house?

Bring in an engineer. The termite inspector's job is to tell you that there is damage and where. The engineer's job is to tell you how that affects the building and what can be done about it. (A home inspector likewise is generally tasked with pointing out what's an issue rather than telling you how big an issue it is, though you can sometimes read between the lines, especially if you walked through the inspection with him.)

Damage that affects structural members of a house may not be repairable. Folks in my neighborhood had to demolish an old farmhouse they'd bought because it had a combination of problems (not termite-related), and nobody was willing to try to fix either one for fear of causing the other to fail catastrophically.

(The termite inspector may give you a general sense of whether the damage is cosmetic, minor, or serious... which will at least tell you whether you do need the engineer's opinion.)


How much water do water softeners waste? I'm considering buying a water softener, but I heard that they waste a lot of water, and I don't really want my water bill to skyrocket.

I haven't been able to find any clear indication of how much water water softeners waste.  They generally have specifications that state the amount of water used for regeneration, but I don't know how often regeneration happens.

How can I tell by the specifications of a given water softener how much water it will waste?

You can easily calculate how often regeneration will be necessary if you know how hard your water is. If you are using city water, they should be able to tell you otherwise there are kits you can use to test your water. And any softener salesman should test your water as part of sizing your system.

In my area, the hardness is measured in grains per gallon and the value is 10.

My water softener is rated at 30,000 grains so I need to regenerate after using 3,000 gallons of water. I use about 100 gallons per day so I regenerate every month.

This link gives you an idea of how much water is used during regeneration for several different brands of water softener:
https://web.archive.org/web/20101007181800/http://www.watervalue.com/softener_regen_water_usage.html


Tamped Gravel on fence posts and Frost Line? I am looking to install a fence as a DIY project. I live in the midwest where the frost line is recorded at 40 inches. I was going to dig my fence post holes 42 inches, and back-fill with tamped crush rock. I am using dog eared picketing and was going to stick it together. So I figured 4x4x8 ft posts should be suitable putting 1/3 of it in the ground sitting on tamped rock the rest of the way down. It got me thinking though, if water can get in and seep through the crush rock, will I have to worry about frost raising the post? Or is it only in the soil where heaving is a problem. Otherwise I will opt for the 10ft posts but was planning on 8ft ones to save a little money.

Thanks!

BTW, what type of rock is normally used for fence posts? All I read is to use crushed angular rock.. Is this the same as crushed limestone?

A 24-inch depth works well for a 4-foot tall fence, but a fence that is 6 feet high should have posts sunk 3 feet deep or more. So dependent on the fence height above ground you may need to go with the 4x4x10.

Crushed rock works well for supporting fence posts because it contains rock pieces of a few inches in size, fine pebbles as well as fine gravel dust, which can pack together more tightly than using rocks of all the same size. If you use gravel instead, you can mix coarse masonry sand with the gravel for better compaction.

As for frost heaving/line, the best way to address this is how you dig your hole. If it is beveled at top then over time—whether concrete or gravel—it will pop out. So you want to create a lip at the top and that can be done by making the base of the hole wider than the top of the hole.

What causes frost heaving is the inward pressure and is comparable to squeezing a watermelon seed. How can that be prevented?  Answer: Dig a bell shaped hole to encase the post as much as possible. Fill hole with gravel leaving a few inches at top and compact that with earth; that helps with enclosing it as well and just looks better (to me).

NOTE: Do not add more than 6" layers of gravel at a time and compact thoroughly between adding layers.

Wrong method in pic 1:

Correct way in pic 2:


Dryer smells like gas after hiatus and reinstall I just reinstalled my gas dryer after a lengthy hiatus due to remodeling. The plumbing hasn't changed much except that I had taken off but then reinstalled (with yellow Teflon tape) the 2' appliance connector.
Just before putting it back there was no gas smell but now there is throughout the house. I did run a test load and it dried fine. So I shut the valve at the outlet off, just before the connector and there is no more smell.
Is it possible that something happened to the dryer during the hiatus? Like that maybe there is a breach of some inside fitting, a gasket, valve or igniter? Should I call my gas company to see if they can detect a leak? Again, when the valve at the outlet is off, everything is fine so I know it's not the pipe leading to it.

This statement concerns me:

The plumbing hasn't changed much except that I had taken off but then reinstalled (with yellow Teflon tape) the 2' appliance connector.

Per the instructions appliance connector hoses and fitting are single-use. Simply put: you need to buy a new appliance connector.
Additionally, no pipe dope nor teflon tape is to be use on flared (tapered) connections. Do not apply pipe dope nor tape to the threads as it can make its way to the flare surface and prevent proper compression.
The male flare is designed to compress against the female flare to produce a gas tight seal. The threads are not gas tight by design because they need you to be able to compress the flare to a specific torque.
The flare metal is usually soft enough to allow microscopic deformation. These connections are single-use so once a flare has been tightened once you need a new flare connector; both male and female.

From the proverbial horse's mouth:

DO NOT reuse the gas connector or fittings. The connector, fittings and valve are designed for use on original installation only. Removal of connector and additional handling may have damaged connector making it unsafe for reuse.

From the Safety precautions section of https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/ea/ea7dc718-95fd-4033-b680-3a9d0c17db69.pdf
Product:
1/2 in. MIP x 1/2 in. MIP x 48 in. Gas Connector (1/2 in. OD) w/Safety+Plus2 Thermal Excess Flow Valve (60,500 BTU)


can I put a single mixer tap in a basin that has 3 holes? Can I put a single mixer tap in a basin that has 3 holes? I've just bought a basin that has 3 holes. Can I put a single mixer in the centre one and plug the other 2 holes? I notice that the centre hole is smaller than the outer two.
Thanks!

Probably.

Will it look good?  Maybe.

Some single hole kitchen faucets have an escutcheon plate that will cover a standard 8 inch,  3 hole to allow you you mount a single hole.


Saddle valve problem My humidifier is supplied from a saddle valve.   I don't think that there is much flow to the humidifier. What is the best way to rectify this problem

I'll give you the same advice I give everybody about saddle valves... Replace it with a proper tee.

Turn off the water.
Drain the line.
Cut the line so the tee will fit in.
Install the tee.
Install a shutoff on the leg of the tee feeding the humidifier.
Install the pipe that feeds humidifier.


Can tile glue for wall tiles contain asbestos? I've got some ceramic tiles I removed for a bathroom remodel. Home was built in 1967 so asbestos was a concern, the floor tiles are vinyl 8x8" and possibly contain asbestos so I am leaving those there and laying over them, but the wall also had a different 4x4" ceramic tiles. I've read that black floor adhesive contains asbestos but what about non-black wall tile glue? Here is a picture:

I've not been able to find any info on if this kind of tile glue can contain asbestos, but just wanted to make sure for others more experienced than I. I'm trying to determine if I should scrap off the glue, or just cut off the drywall completely.

Then again, I also read some plasters and drywall muds could contain asbestos too, seems like so much can contain it. I just read this comment on a youtube video fro removing drywall: "Most people don't know this but drywall that was installed up to the early 1980s may contain asbestos especially at the joints in the joint compound so the dust can be very dangerous to breath."

Should I be concerned about this too?

Yes you are definitely limiting your exposure by removing the drywall and NOT SCRAPING.

Even removing the Drywall - asbestos dust can fly around.

Get a disposable suit so that you don't get any fibers on your clothing.
Get a good respirator suitable for asbestos protection.

I am not affiliated in any way with the below link but providing as an example

Or buy the Kit not expensive at all - reasonably priced:
https://www.pksafety.com/lead-asbestos-removal-pro-kit.html


Exterior coating for concrete treads I have some exterior concrete stairs that were finished poorly.  The treads are back-sloped and pools sit consistently on the treads in the fall/winter.
I am having the tread surfaces ground down so the water can drain.  The exposed smooth aggregate surface now becomes a slip hazard instead of the ice that would have formed in the puddles.
What product would work to coat concrete in an exterior application that would hold up over time?  or is there something else I could do to make the concrete surface non-slick once it has been ground down?
I suppose I could look at installing metal or rubber grip strips. Ideas?

Non-slip paint/sealers frequently used for this kind of thing. I usually see a coat applied, grit scattered onto the wet paint, then a second coat applied to hold everything.
It appears that single-part solutions exist too.


How do I connect a single pole light switch with three 2-wire cables in box? In a bedroom a “friend“ removed the light switch. I have no idea if it was a single or double.  There are 3 cables coming into box with 3 wires each, black, white and copper. One of the black is constant hot.  I have read many articles looking to put in a single pole ( or double) pole light switch and I am so confused. Could you “dumb down” an answer for me. There are 3 outlets and an overhead light, 2 of the outlets work.   Thank you for any info you can give me.

If you are sure that there is only 1 (one) always hot black wire, then follow these steps:

Turn off power at the breaker.
Connect all of the ground wires together with a wirenut and stuff them in to the box.
Connect all of the white wires together with a wirenut and stuff them in to the box.
Get yourself a 6 inch piece of black wire and strip the ends. You've just made yourself a pigtail. Match the gauge of this wire (12 or 14) to the gauge of the wire already in the box. Connect one end to the switch.
Connect the other end of the pigtail to the always hot black wire and one of the other black wires with a wirenut.
Connect the remaining black wire to the switch.
Install the switch and cover.
Turn on the breaker.
Turn the switch on and off. If it controls the light, you are done.
If the switch doesn't control the light, turn the breaker off and repeat from step 5 but swap the two black wires that are not always hot.


Sub-panel tapped from aluminum feed in Duplex I live in a Duplex (build in 1979) with a 200A distribution panel which has 2 meters and 2 100A breakers (one for each unit).The distribution panel is on the outside of the garage and is fed underground by the utility. I live in California and the code currently references NEC 2014.

Each unit has a sub-panel and is about 1200 sqft. There is an aluminum 3 conductor + ground cable going to each unit, I believe it is a #2 AWG Al (but I'm not sure). I assume it was sized correctly in 1979 to be protected with a 100A breaker in the distribution panel.

I wanted to add a sub-panel in the garage (between the distribution panel and the unit sub-panel to charge my EV (14-50R outlet) and add a couple of 20A outlets. In the near future I plan to connect a PV inverter to this panel (20A 240V breaker installed for this future use).

I think based on the tapping rules specified in [240.21(B)(1)] I’m allowed to tap into the cable that runs from the distribution panel (with a 100A breaker) to the sub-panel in the unit. I used a #2 3 conductor, copper, NM-B cable between the junction box where I did the tap back to the distribution panel (<10ft of cable). I used #2 copper conductors between the tapping junction box and the panel below. I did this work without permit, but would like to get it permitted when I get my solar installed.

According to NEC Table 310.15 (b) (7) “These are the permitted ratings for Dwelling Unit service and feeder conductors which carry the total load of the dwelling”. 100A, Copper #4, Aluminum #2. #2 Copper can provide 125A.  But is this still relevant now that some of the load of the dwelling is coming from the sub-panel in the garage.

Here is the load calculation according to the optional method of 220.82
For the unit only (excluding the garage):

 1200 sqft @ 3 w/sqft=3600
 3 kitchen 20A appliance circuits: 4500
 Dishwasher NPR: 1188
 garbage disposal NPR: 1224
 microwave NPR: 1350
 washer: 1500
 gas fired dryer:720
 Sauna NPR 6000
 Total: 20082
 1st 10,000W @100%: 10,000
 remaining at 40%: 4032.8
 Total: 14,032 W (58.47 A)

If I add the EVSE in the garage (32A NPR), the total load goes to 71.3A. Do I need to multiply the EVSE rating with 125% (operation >3 hrs) ?

Questions:

Am I allowed to run a #2 Cu cable from my tapping junction box back to the main distribution panel? Southwire states it is rated for 95A only, but the main breaker is 100A.
Is it OK to use a #8 wire between the 50A breaker at the 14-50R outlet based on the 75C rating of the outlet and the breaker? I read somewhere that you have to use 60C in residential applications
If I add a 40A 240V inductive stove to the unit, can I keep my existing aluminum cable? I had an electrician tell me that it needs to be upgraded, but I figured as long as I keep my 100A main breaker, there should not be a problem. I checked the ‘feeder and service load calcuations’ in [220.82] using the optional method and it is within 100A (including the loads on the sub-panel in the garage. I do need to replace the sub-panel in the unit, because it is a Zinsco panel and it is located in a closet.
Any other problems you see in the pictures provided?

Good news, your article 220 load calculations are correct

Upon reviewing 220.82 and your panel photo -- your article 220 load calculation seems to be spot-on in terms of what it includes.  Note that you do not need to use the 125% continuous load multiplier for Article 220 purposes as the applicable Code text explicitly refers to the nameplate rating of the appliance.

As to the tapping...

Your existing feeder conductor is indeed correctly sized for 100A -- the 83% rules for dwelling unit feeders/services in 310.15(B)(7) means that you can get by with a cable that can carry 83A, and 2AWG aluminum SE is allowed to carry 90A when terminated on 75°C lugs as per 338.10(B)(4)(a) (text from 2017 NEC, 334.80 is the section that governs temperature ratings and allowable ampacity of NM cables):

  (4) Installation Methods for Branch Circuits and Feeders.

  (a) Interior Installations. In addition to the provisions of
  this article, Type SE service-entrance cable used for interior
  wiring shall comply with the installation requirements of Part II
  of Article 334, excluding 334.80.

  For Type SE cable with ungrounded conductor sizes 10 AWG
  and smaller, where installed in thermal insulation, the ampacity
  shall be in accordance with 60°C (140°F) conductor temperature rating. The maximum conductor temperature rating shall
  be permitted to be used for ampacity adjustment and correction purposes, if the final derated ampacity does not exceed
  that for a 60°C (140°F) rated conductor.

Since you used mechanical setscrew-type (Polaris™) splices for your tap, you should be fine with the copper-to-aluminum connections as those connectors are Cu7Al or Cu9Al rated in their common incarnations.  Furthermore, the 83% rule for the run wires from the meter-main to your unit still holds thanks to 310.15(B)(7) point 3:

  (3) In no case shall a feeder for an individual dwelling unit
  be required to have an ampacity greater than that specified in 310.15(B)(7)(1) or (2).

Finally, the formal feeder tap rules do not apply here at all since the conductors from the junction box to the new subpanel are of a size which is adequately protected by the feeder breaker (#2 copper wires in conduit or a SE cable can handle 115A) without further consideration.  (In other words, they are not tap conductors in the Code sense of the term -- they would need to be too small to handle 100A in order to be considered as such.)

...and the subpanel in the garage

The installation of the receptacles and subpanel in the garage is close to correct, but needs rectification on a couple of points.  The good news is that these are not hard fixes, and should be manageable in a day -- nothing major was screwed up here, as you appear to have your neutrals and grounds sorted, and even though this box is full, that's an acceptable concession to make for something special-purpose.

The first issue is that the 50A breaker is a bit large for 8AWG wire going to a receptacle -- it would be fine if that 8AWG was going to say subpanel lugs via a conduit, as you could use the 75°C column in that case, but most receptacles are restricted to 60°C service, so that limits you to using the 60°C column in the ampacity table for circuits feeding receptacles, no matter the type of occupancy.  Swapping the 50A breaker for a MP240 or QP240, presuming that's the correct type for what appears from the interior layout to be a Siemens/Murray spa panel, will correct that, while the NEMA 14-50 receptacle can stay as NEC Table 210.21(B)(3) permits 50A receptacles on 40A branch circuits.  (It also permits 40A receptacles, but there are no 40A NEMA receptacle configurations.)

The other thing I noticed in your picture is a panoply of utterly redundant grounding wires, at least if the NEC grounding rules govern unchanged in your jurisdiction -- the RMC nipples are an adequate grounding path from the tap box to the subpanel and from the subpanel to the junction boxes in this case (i.e. not a service, and less than 250V to ground), meaning you simply need to use appropriate gauge ground pigtails from the receptacle to the box to finish the grounding path, given that you are using "bump out" covers on your junction boxes.  Furthermore, the bonding bushing where the feeder enters the subpanel shouldn't be necessary, either -- that gets rid of the wire from the bonding bushing to the ground bar.  In the end upshot, your ground bar will be rather empty, but that is fine given that you are using metal boxes and metal conduit.

Adding the stove is fine too, once you send all the Zinsco hardware to the smelter

It turns out that adding the stove only adds 16A of factored load, maximum (40% of 40A), to your 220.82 calculation, which puts you at 87.3A of computed service load, which is still within what a 100A service can handle -- the electrician who says you absolutely need a larger feeder to handle the additional load is incorrect.  However, you might as well get a new meter-main fitted anyway (with the cooperation of the other stakeholders), as you have a serious problem: not only is your existing subpanel a Zinsco, your existing meter main uses Zinsco breakers as well!  This renders this entire electrical installation hazardously unserviceable, as a documented failure mode for Zinsco breakers is them not turning the power off when you place the handle in the OFF position.

At this point, what you do is up to you and your fellow stakeholders.  A two-socket, 200A unit of whatever specification your utility accepts is not a bad choice for the replacement meter-main as it's one less piece of hardware to swap if future expansion is called for, while I would fit a 42 space minimum, 200 or 225A main lug panel with ground bars to replace the existing subpanel pyromaniac monster lurking in your closet.


Can I run two 12/2 wires from one 12/3 wire? I have a dead ceiling fan I'm trying to replace with 4 recessed lights. I took it down to find it has a 12/3 wire run to it, and a 12/2 wire run from it (I thought it was the last device on that run). The 12/3 is all on the same breaker.

The black conductor was constantly hot and provided power to the porch light and apparently 2 outlets in my bedroom. The red conductor was controlled by a switch in the dining room for the fan.

Unfortunately the fan was in a terrible place and the 12/2 isn't long enough to reach where I need it to go. My question is:

Can I replace the fixture box with a steel junction box, and run 2 12/2 lines from it. With Switched Red/Neutral/Ground running the 4 lights, and the Hot Black/Neutral/Ground powering the 2 or 3 things downstream?

Here's a quick doodle:

You don't even need to replace the fixture box.  Fixture boxes are allowed to be junction boxes. Boxes are a PitA to change anyway, because of the risk of damaging the cables and the close quarters.  They make blanking plates for unused ceiling boxes.

Also, presuming the box is a fan box, you may want to leave it intact, in case the next owner wants a ceiling fan or a light there.

A Multi-Wire Branch Circuit is fine as you draw, as long as the /3 cable lands on one breaker whose handles are factory-tied together, or two independent breakers with a field-installed handle-tie that is UL listed for the breakers.  There are a few other requirements for MWBCs, but they are irrelevant to your plan.


How to paint baseboard without painting the base shoe? I'm painting a room that has hardwood floors and base shoe stained to match the floors. How can I paint the baseboard without painting the shoe? I haven't found any trim painting tutorials that have an unpainted base shoe.

Looks like this:

I'm debating between:

taping the base shoe.
freehand, and wiping up misses with a wet rag on a putty knife.
other ideas?

It would be quick and easy to mask the shoe. Slide a roll of high-quality painter's tape along the baseboard, tight to it, while pressing the dispensed tape against the shoe. Run a finger wrapped in a thin towel along to press it tight.

Pull the tape shortly after painting and scrape off any bleed with a soft (plastic or wood) tool while the paint is still soft. (Pulling tape quickly also results in softer, less-conspicuous paint edges, as the edge can contract minutely as it dries.)


Very small foundation pour Going to have to pour a very small 3'x2' foundation.  I know that I should go easy on the water to prevent spalling problems, etc., but I'm looking for something better than chicken wire for reinforcement.  I'm afraid of rust problems, which can crack concrete because rust takes up more volume than the original iron/steel.

Obviously I don't need anything too substantial for such a small foundation, but I'd like something that isn't galvanized and is intended for encasement in concrete.  Anyone know of anything that would be suitable?

Never use chicken wire or fiber glass meshing, they don't do anything.

When it comes to non rebar reinforcement you have some options. In your case I would add fibers. This type of reinforcement is called FRC or Fiber Reinforced Concrete.

Steel fibers add tensile strength and have no weak points like rebar does because they are spread throughout the slab. They also improve impact resistance and freeze-thaw damage.

On the other hand you can also add polypropylene and Nylon fibers, as they do a similar function. I'll add more on this if you need.


How to install a timer next to thermostat to control/limit the length of time the thermostat operates? What if you want to put the thermostat pre-set at 74 degrees in a clear wall mount tamper-proof enclosure and install a 6 hour timer next to it so the knuckleheads don’t leave the a/c on when they leave? Should I just break the G wire to the timer and back or what? Will that affect the delays the thermostat has for pumping out the ventilation system before it shuts off?

No one would ever do that.

They would get a programmable thermostat. It is trivial to set up programs that do exactly what you want to do.  Further, many thermostats have mechanical gating so the up and down (temperature) buttons are readily accessible and changeable right now, but will reset at the next program time.  Access to program is gated by a special door.  You can then put a cage over top of it so they can access the buttons, but not the door.  They typically allow 4 program changes per day.

This is a $50 solution, and you can't homebrew a thing like that for so little.


What is suitable method for controlling lighting based on pause/play? I am in the process of turning my basement into a Home Theater. I have seen some people with home theaters where when they pause a movie it dims the lights up and I would love to use this feature. What is a suitable method to achieve this effect?

I havent installed but have seen them they have a special remote that has a reciever in the lighting device (switch) you can program the remote for different settings like when you stop a movie lights on full, pause at 50% play at 25% will look arround and see if i can find some brands for you to check out


How to reduce temperature difference between the second floor and basement? I have one thermostat on the second floor and while it is achievable to get a desired temperature on the second floor, the basement is always cold.

Is this a central heating system? Adjust the dampers in the basement to full open and close them down on the upper floor, if you have AC you will need to reverse them in the summer or close the lower floors dampers and open the upper floor dampers. I like control dampers on the main ducts to each floor so there are only 2 adjustments, 1 in summer and 1 in winter instead of having to adjust all of them.


1920s stove pipe walled off behind kitchen I have a giant metal pipe filled with concrete or something, it doesn't go anywhere, it's just taking up space in my closet.

I assume there used to be a big wood burning stove in the kitchen, and this is where the pipe led to. They removed the stove but left the pipe, and walled it off. I'm no archaeologist but this is my best guess.

The pipe doesn't go anywhere. The top is open, the bottom is open, and the side is walled off. It's freestanding.

I'm not sure how I can even get started in removing it safely. I have a reciprocating saw, an angle grinder, and lots of patience. But I don't know what material I'm dealing with or how to properly and legally dispose of it. Any ideas?

Here's a picture of my kitchen wall.

On the other side of this wall is the hallway closet. Here's the view from that angle. Same wall, different side.

Inside this closet and to the left, there's this giant hunk of metal encasing concrete or clay or ... something.

Here's the top view.

Here's the bottom view.

It almost certainly is in sections, but to get the first section out you'll have to get the T away from the wall.

Asbestos putties were really common.  That said you have a choice, pull it out and stay ignorant, or add probably $2000 to the removal cost to have a test and an abatement firm come out.  The asbestos could have been in the clay pipe, but more likely was in a fireseal putty used between sections.


Is air gap needed if dishwasher is connected directly to the sewer line? My dishwasher is in an island, across from the sink.  If I connect my dishwasher directly to the sewer line instead of to a garbage disposal, then does it still need an air gap?

You do need an air-gap. In my state it is legally required (Cal Plumbing Code 414.3)

Contrary to what you might mistakenly interpret from some other comments, it does not serve the same function as your sewer/drain vent system. It is not a "vent", it is a vacuum breaker.


Reduce rust in bases? I installed these bases about 3 months ago, but as you can see from the pictures, the screws and washers already have rust spots. A few of the bases have rust spots also.

What can I do to reduce rust? I can't remove the bases. Maybe some coating?

The studs and nuts are galvanized.  The washers are not.   You just grabbed the wrong kind of washer.

You can get galvanized washers, or since the washers are only in compression, you can use stainless without having to think about tensile strength.

As far as the bases proper, normally those are sold as galvanized.  I've been to our local galvanizer and seen mountains of Simpson Strong-Tie parts waiting their turn. Instead, however, these parts are powder-coated, and it sounds like abrasion damaged the powder coat membrane.

You can use the usual surface preparation methods, from "nothing" to "hand wirebrush" clear up to "media blast to SSPC-SP10 near-white metal".

Then you can follow with any of the usual primers, from cheap "paint-primer Stops Rust, we swear!" to Rustoleum 7769 Rusty Metal Primer, clear on up to the 2-part strontium chromate mil-spec stuff (the green stuff seen on airplanes).

Then you can follow with a topcoat of your choice, I strongly prefer an alkyd such as Rustoleum topcoats, not that there's anything special about its rust fighting abilities, it's just readily available everywhere.  The top shelf option is a 2-pack LPU, but that's over the moon for homeowners who aren't pro or prosumer boat painters.  Although a quality powdercoat is very, very good (just requires removing the part and stripping it to bare metal, which is not possible).


How do you call a concrete water catching thing under outdoor water tap? How do you call this concrete thing under the tap on pic #1? Does it come prefabricated or is it made in place and, if so, how? Does it require connection to drainage system?

I just need something under my outdoor tap so whatever water gets out when say water hose is disconnected is caught somewhere and doesn't simply flow downhill. See pic #2. I don't really want to connect it to drainage system as it is obviously much more work.

I would call it a "basin".

A "catch basin" often refers to something else:  A box that pipe(s) drain into, and another pipe drains out of.  The bottom of the box is lower than the outlet pipe.  Sediment can settle in the catch basin, and not flow into the outlet pipe.

If you bought a shallow concrete sink basin or bird bath basin that drained into a hose, you could drain the basin with only a modest amount of work.  Route a hose from the basin's drain to a place you want to water.  (You could put the hose 4 - 12 inches underground, to improve æsthetics and avoid tripping hazards.)  At the end of the hose, attach drip irrigation tubing.  Unfortunately, Netafim-style emitters would not work in this application, because they need a 2 psi pressure differential to emit water.


Eliminate bed bugs from flat How to eliminate bed bugs from flat?
I have tried pest control etc.
After a few days they come back due to moisture.

Of all the sprays that exist, Temprid SC (imidacloprid + beta-cyfluthrin) and Transport (Acetamiprid + Bifenthrin) are found to be the best for controlling bed bugs. The best natural spray is Ecoraider. Ecoraider and Temprid SC do work together, but Ecoraider would be antagonistic with diatomaceous earth, because diatomaceous earth works by absorbing oil while Ecoraider is oil based... so they would completely cancel eachother. Diatomaceous earth and Temprid SC or Transport would work well together.

However, the real key to killing bedbugs is getting them to move, and crawl through a pesticide. Bed bugs will not move without an attractant, like carbon dioxide. Recently, histamine was discovered to "arrest" bed bugs... meaning that the bed bug will not move once it contacts histamine. This is pretty good news, but there's a few problems; first, you can't spray histamine everywhere (that would kill a person)!  The second problem is that spraying histamine would cost an outrageous fortune! So, histamine works (better than glue) for trapping them, provided that you can attract them to a trap. The third major problem is that the company that was supposed to be producing these new lure, Contech, suddenly went out of business.

But chemical lures, except carbon dioxide, are poor attractants; they are used for monitoring- meaning that they are supposed to catch one or two bugs, just to indicate their presence; they are not a "control" method.
The best control method (tried and true for centuries) is the pitfall trap, especially under bed and furniture legs. The best bait is a sleeping human. However, lots of work has been done, trapping bed bugs, and as a result, you can get a fair amount of control from a homemade trap. Commercial traps are limited by the fact that they need to sell something simple... which is what most people want. Consumers don't like to buy an elaborate trap, so commercial traps are not really made to work, as well as they are made to sell well, by being as simple as possible and still capture a few bugs. Still, pheromone lures might help with a DIY trap, especially in conjuction with carbon dioxide, and using the right objects and colors.

Bed bugs are attracted to large vertical objects. They are not attracted to pictures (like of a person). They are attracted to dark red and black. They climb surgical/cloth tape best. So, I would recommend using the DIY trap that Rutgers came up with, but I would also add a pheromone lure, if possible (although the extra $15 may not be totally worth it). And I would invest in some pitfall traps (for your bed and furniture legs). And I would pick up a bottle of Temprid SC.

But, home made traps aren't really going to collect all of the bed bugs... it might offer 60%-70% control by trapping (only)... the idea here is that it will hopefully cause all the bed bugs to at least move and inspect the room, which is absolutely critical for a pesticide to work. An insect must contact the insecticide! Use trap to draw them out into insecticide-treated areas... and you should also be able to monitor the size of the population and the control as time goes by.