Using half of a 240v dual-phase circuit as a 120v single-phase circuit (US) Usually when I see a 240v device, it is wired to its own double-pole circuit breaker, with each pole connected to a different 120v phase (to provide 240v total). If there is a 120v device in the same location, it is wired to a separate single-pole circuit breaker, which it often shares with other 120v devices.

If a neutral were wired along with the two phases in the 240v circuit described in my first paragraph, either phase could be used along with the neutral to power a 120v device. If there were no other 120v circuits nearby (and with enough capacity), this could potentially cost less than leaving the 240v circuit by itself and adding a separate breaker, hot, and neutral for the 120v device.

Why is the scenario described in my second paragraph uncommon in practice? Are there safety or electrical code concerns that I am unaware of?

Thanks!

The problem with doing this is you may have, say, a 30 amp double pole breaker on your 240V line which may be 10g  wire,  and the you come off it on one phase with a 120V circuit with 14g wire, the 30 amp breaker is to high for 14g wire, which then is not protected from melting.

The US has moved to 4 wire 240V service, to accommodate appliances that have internal 120V electronics.


Is this cement board / Sheetrock still ok to use in my bathroom? Our builders are putting up cement board in the bathroom, and we noticed the pieces on the left have some stains, they look very different to the rest that looks the same as the ones on the right of the picture. Is it still ok to use them? Thank you

As long as the cement board is solid with no large cracks it is useable. The stains may have occurred for any number of reasons. Also the cement board should be flat and even with no ridges. And do not worry if they feel or look wet, moisture won't effect it.


Installing a exterior light in existing vinyl siding My house is a 50's cape which originally had clapboard siding.  The previous owner put a layer of rigid foam over the clapboard, then vinyl siding.  As far as I can tell, from looking at the wall stack-up from the bottom I see:

1) 3/4 tongue and groove sheathing
2) An unidentified, ~3/4 wood material
3) Clapboard
4) Rigid foam
5) Tripple 3" Vinyl

Besides the foam I couldn't really tell you where, if anywhere, there is some sort of moister barrier.

Now I'd like to install a new exterior light.  Which means that I need a box, and some sort of mounting block.  I know that normally I would begin be installing the box recessed into the sheathing, then installing a two piece vinyl mounting block.  Something like this image from hammerzone.com (minus the electrical box):

However it seems like this method isn't going to work in my case.  Additionally it is my understanding that you cannot assume there is no moister behind your vinyl, that's why there is normally a moisture barrier.  So in that case I really don't understand how this method would prevent moisture, which may have already gotten behind the vinyl, from getting into the electrical box.  I realize that I could cut the box in, then use a mounting block designed for retrofitting, like this one:

But in that case I am really not sure how moisture would be prevented from entering the electrical box.  So my question is: how do I do this right?

You said:

  So in that case I really don't understand how this method would prevent moisture, which may have already gotten behind the vinyl, from getting into the electrical box.

You are correct in your assessment, the siding is not waterproof or even moisture proof. Water will get behind the siding, hence the reason for underlayment or house wrap. Electrical boxes cut into siding will not be waterproof or moisture proof either.

The code just requires you to use a weather resistant / tamper resistant receptacle and an in use cover if it will be exposed to the weather. If it is under a porch or patio you can use a old style spring cover like a Bell box cover.

The terminals and connections in this box will probably corrode and need replacing before anything inside the house but should last for 10 years or so depending on your location and the weather.

If you want it as water/moisture proof as possible then install an all plastic solid device box with PVC nipple attached with a PVC connector to a junction box inside of the house. Then wire it with THHN/THWN wire instead of NM cable. Then use an in-use cover with a gasket and the aforementioned weather resistant / tamper resistant receptacle. That should keep the inside of the box pretty dry.

Good Luck!

Happy Thursday!


Old Skilsaw model 77 blade won't tighten I'm on a farm, and I'm a little person learning to do big work.

I was having so much trouble controlling a direct drive circular saw due to the gyroscopic twist when starting it up, my "adopted brother" found me this wonderful worm drive Skilsaw.  It's an old solid metal case, the thing weighs like three times the Ryobi direct drive, but when it's running, it doesn't feel like anything at all!  I love the darned thing.

We replaced the blade for something newer, as I've got some cabinetry to tackle - but neither he nor I can get the blade to tighten down.  If there's no real drag it cuts fine, but the least thing makes the blade just stop.  No jerk or bounce-back, the shaft spins but the blade is obviously not tight to the shaft.

This scares me, but I really want to be able to fix ths so I can get back to cutting.  Any help would be appreciated!

Edit: Thank you all for your suggestions!

I got the bolt off (yes, reverse thread) and yes, the diamond knockout is knocked out.  So it's a problem with the blade thickness.  I got a hefty washer on there, threaded the bolt back on, tightened the you-know-what out of it, and the difference is obvious without even running it - before, I could hold the blade with my fingers and spin the shaft with a wrench.  Now I tried holding the blade with a pair of slip-joint pliers and couldn't get the bolt to budge.

I'm leaving a photo here of how it looks, and will check back in a bit - let me know if what I did is in some way dangerous or unsafe.

Note to the respondent who noted the dangers of worm drive - thank you!  I already knew, and have a healthy terror of kickback.  Scariest thing I ever did with a circular saw was stand on the top rung of a ladder and cut notches into roofing plywood - and that was a direct drive, and I definitely self-medicated with a bit of Tito's that night, well after I was finished.  :)

You people rock, and if I haven't forgotten I'll post shots of the finished bed frame.  Thank you all!

Some things to consider.

Some of the newest blade, especially the thin cut carbide tipped ones, are quite a bit thinner than the blades from 20 or 30 years ago. It is possible that the truss washers on either side of the blade just do not tighten down enough on a super thin blade.
You may have made a mistake assembling the blade mount. The truss washer on at least the outside end of the shaft usually has a flatted hole on one side so that it fits down on the flat on the saw shaft. It is possible you had this rotated around the wrong way and the bolt went tight but the washer did not seat tight down to the blade.
Maybe there is debris or rusted threads down in the bottom of the threaded hole on the end of the saw shaft. This could prevent the bolt from entering the shaft the required amount to tighten up the blade.


Safe way to a hang a barn beam mantel I have a 6 foot piece of 8 x 8 hardwood barn beam that I'm intending to use as a mantel.The beam weighs about 130 lbs. My plan is to mount it on four half inch x 10 inch long lag bolts, each screwed five inches into a stud, with the remaining five inches going into the back of the beam. Is this safe, and/or is there a better way to do it?

Assuming the math checks out (ie, you have 2x6 studs), this should work. If you only have 2x4s, I'd think about getting more lags into the equation.

If it was my project, I'd use longer lags to have more resistance to rotation in the mantel. (12" lags give about 6" in the mantel, though you'd lose a little in the drywall and the removal of the lag's head.)

There's two hard things to this plan: the first is making sure you hit the absolute center of the studs. I'd cut drywall away to make sure I'm centered. (It'll be behind the wood, so any patching can be pretty basic.) Second is getting your lags drilled absolutely perfectly dead perpendicular, both to the mantel and the wall. The best case is using a drill press for the mantel, though that might be tough. Using a spotter and a speed square can be very helpful. Obviously, your holes need to line up perfectly as well.

To prevent the mantel from slipping off in the future, all you'd really need is a couple of long toe screws through the mantle into the studs. They aren't doing much work, so that doesn't need to be overdone.

If all this sounds daunting, you might explore other options, like a french cleat (metal, not wood) that would be more forgiving in terms of install complexity.


How do I hang a shelf without drilling holes? I'm currently living in a house in which we have clear instructions not to drill through the walls for danger of asbestos.

I purchased a small projector and would like to mount a shelf to the wall, but I know that I cannot drill through. The projector weighs about 1lbs, and the shelf could be just a piece of wood or plastic stuck to the wall. Does anyone have any suggestions about making this shelf and how to stick it to the wall without drilling through?

A "C" (or perhaps "[" is better) shaped shelf could sit under and behind the couch, keeping it no more than an inch or two (even less if it was metal plate for the section behind the top edge of the couch) off the wall, and holding the projector above the couch without needing any attachment into the walls.

Not exactly what I'm thinking of (not having much luck thinking of the right search terms to find what I am thinking of), but the general idea - legs that can slip under the couch, standards, a shelf.


Workaround for a bad neutral cable Question: A 3-wire socket (hot, neutral, ground) in my bathroom has stopped working due to a bad neutral wire.  Can I safely disconnect the bad neutral wire completely, and move the ground wire to the neutral connector to get the socket working again?   I have verified that there are 0.0 volts between ground and a nearby (working) neutral wire.

Background:  I believe this failure can be traced to the installation of a new deck in the back of the house a couple of years ago, when the workers broke several cables between floors when they were pulling out beams from the old deck.  The contractor brought in an electrician to fix the obvious failures, but I didn't notice that this bathroom socket (which is the last of a daisy chain of outlets) apparently ended up with a loose or broken neutral wire which causes intermittent failure, especially during prolonged rain spells.  I'm speculating that the break is about 30 feet away from the socket, buried somewhere in the space between the floors and virtually inaccessible.  I have considered installing a connecting wire from a nearby good neutral wire from the bathroom lights, but there is no easy way to do this without removing wall paper, sheet rock, etc.   The first socket in this particular daisy chain is in another bathroom, and is a GFCI socket.  Second question:  Would the ground to neutral connection I am proposing trip the GFCI?

The intermittent failures (which can last for hours or days) are driving me nuts.  Any other suggestions for how to fix this without breaking into the sheet rock would be welcome.

Don't walk, but RUN to your closest licensed electrician to fix this problem.

There is no workaround.

It simply needs to be fixed correctly.

This is a life-threatening situation.  Until you get a contractor out to look at it, avoid all contact with that outlet.


How can I lower wall cabinets after fitting drywall? Before fitting a drywall, I measured 12cm from the ceiling and fitted battens (wall studs) across the length of the room to support wall cabinets.

I didn't leave enough room - the wall cabinets are now too high.

Does anything exist such as a metal piece that will act as a lowering mechanism to keep the existing support at the 12cm but allow the cupboard to hang lower e.g. at 24cm from the ceiling. I'm imagining a piece of metal that hooks to both the wall fixture and the cupboard but I'm not sure if it exists.

The battens are 1.5 inches because I needed to bring it in front of some pipes.

Also open to other suggestions.

Work out the correct height the battens (studs) should be, cut the plasterboard using a sharp knife or angle grinder and neat as possible and place in the battens where you want them to be. Screw your plasterboard back onto your newly placed batten and polyfill the gaps if you care about tidyness. You can then safely attach your cupboard to the newly placed batten and the cut out will not be seen because it will be behind the cupboard. Hey Presto!

Credit: Father.


Smoke and Sparks From Circuit Going to 6 Wire Outlet? I'm trying to deliver power to a simple circuit, and need help identifying the source of smoke and sparks from an outlet outside our house when I try to connect wires going outdoors.

The wires outdoors go to a 2 outlet receptacle in a shed and a switch & light located in a cave. I suspect there's a short in the circuit, because when I turn on 1 outlet of the 2 outlet receptacle, it's fine, but both can't be on or else smoke comes from the outlet from the house and the 20Amp circuit breaker turns off.

I included a diagram of my wiring job. I disconnected the light and attempted to wire in series. The only configuration I could think of making both outlets work was disconnecting the light bulb. When I flip the switch off, it will cut power to one of the outlets. So far so good. However, just recently the power supply outside the house started buzzing loudly and smoke/sparks come from the plug connecting the outdoors circuit when the switch was ON. I'm at a loss at where I went wrong wiring the circuit, and what's causing the apparent short circuit. Please ask if further clarification is needed.

EDIT: Green wire shouldn't come from the power supply as the drawing shows.

Here's a picture of the box inside the shed. one black wire carries power from supply. the other black goes to the cave. 2 white neutrals (one from cave and one from shed, also the mystery red wire)

light fixture in cave (not sure why wires coming from cave end up at the outlet at the shed. Also, how do i get power to the light with one black wire carrying power?)

power supply (red-green,white-white,black-black)

Did you remove both tabs from the receptacle?

If not there is a dead short on the right side of the receptacle. Between the red and the white. Also your wiring diagram on the left shows the black and white of the light wire nutted together which accomplishes nothing and the white is connected to the black from the switch and back to the receptacle. This creates a 240 volt circuit on the bottom of the receptacle if this is how you actually wired it.

You need to check the connections on this entire circuit and update your drawing or change the wiring.

Good luck!


What is the proper method for rolling paint on a wall? When rolling a wall with paint, is there an optimal or proper method of rolling?

Usually I just go up and down and make sure the paint is rolled evenly.

I've attached a picture showing some possibilities.  I am not sure if it makes a difference as long as there is an even coat.

You can apply the paint initially anyway you like, but to "finish" it you should roll up and down, moving the brush towards the handle side as you roll.

The handle side gets the most pressure, so moving in the direction of the handle means that as you lap and overlap and overlap the paint moving along the wall, the lightest pressure is always the last pressure applied to the paint.

This helps reduce the creation of those "paint lines" - ridges in the paint you see left behind if you move the brush away from the roller.

The downside here is this will tend to pull the brush off the roller over time, so you'll need to push it back into place from time to time.


Wooden bed sidebar to headboard screws loose, wobbly joints What can I do to fix my bed? The screws go through the headboard and footboard into the side bars, but the whole thing is loose. When I get into bed it's all fine as I have pushed the headboard up against the wall, but when I wake up the top of the headboard is about 6-8" away from the wall. I have tried to tighten the screws, but they just keep turning, so I take it they are just loose.
Would getting steel braces that screw onto the leg and sidebar angle on all four legs solve the problem? It's quite a chunky pine bed with corner posts and knicker rail on the footboard.
Thank you.

I'd think using the bolt designed for exactly this job would be the way to fix this, rather than following a poor design choice by whoever built the bed.

Bed Bolts are machine bolts (metal to metal threads) that mate with a cylindrical "nut" that goes into a drilled cross hole in the side rail. The bedframe to rail job is what they were designed to do (though they have other uses, once you are aware of them.)

Further detail - OK, those are "modern" bed bolts, for some reason I more easily found images of "old" style bed bolts with normal square nuts, which are a huge pain to actually use in a wooden bedframe  than this "modern" style bed bolt pictured above.


Doorbell constantly rings even after replacing switch This is a newer home in the US (fewer than 10 years old).  The doorbell started ringing all the time.  Disconnected button and it stopped.  Replaced the button with a new button, and it stayed on all the time again.  Touch the two wires together that connect to the button and it rings, and stops ringing when they are disconnected.

Both the original and replacement buttons were lighted.  In testing the new button with a multi-meter, there was a continuous connection (with some resistance) even when the button was unpressed, and a completed connection with no resistance when it was pressed.

I disassembled the new switch and removed the LED from the circuit, and now it works as expected - ringing the doorbell when the button is depressed, but not ringing when it is not.  But the doorbell is no longer lighted.

What do I need to check (or replace) to allow a lighted switch to work?

What voltage does the doorbell run on and is the pushbutton rated for the same voltage? Might be mismatched.
Other thought is maybe moisture is getting into the pushbutton which is affecting the led.


Dryer venting options on second floor with gambrel roof In redoing our second floor laundry closet, we'd like to replace the flammable flexible plastic dryer duct with rigid duct and a better vent. I did extensive research, but couldn't find any discussions on dryer vents exiting the steep slope of a gambrel roof (sometimes called a mansard roof), which has brought me here.

The laundry closet is in the middle of the second floor. The shortest route to the side of the house is just above the floor, through the cavity of a fiberglass bath tub in the adjacent bathroom, with a total length of 10 feet.  The current vent is on the steep slope (48/12 pitch) of the gambrel roof, which is roofed with asphalt shingles.

Options

10 foot straight run to gambrel roof. Issues:

No vent is made for this. Roof vents have appropriate flashing, but dampers won't operate at this steep of a pitch. Wall vents have dampers that will most likely work, but don't have appropriate flashing to slip under adjacent shingles.
Vent would be above deck, however the previous vent was here and we didn't notice problems with lint getting on the deck.

10 foot straight run to edge of roof, 90 degree elbow down through holes in subfloor and soffit, with an eave vent. 15 foot effective length. Issues:

Warm moist air could condensate on the soffit in winter, or worse rise into the attic through the soffit attic vents contributing moisture to the attic.
Vent would be almost two feet closer to the deck, so lint and airflow might become more irritating.
Requires patching existing vent hole in roof.

10 foot straight run to edge of roof, 90 degree elbow, then 14 foot straight run through mini triangular attic to gable end with a standard wall vent. 29 foot effective length. Problems:

Longest duct run.
Vent not easily accessed for cleaning, though no lint screen so cleaning shouldn't be needed often.
More drywall removal and repair along knee wall.
Requires patching existing vent hole in roof.

90 degree in-the-wall transition and 12 or so feet up to the roof. 17 foot effective length. Problems:

Very difficult to access for cleaning, and generally the least preferred option according to everything I've read.

Question

Are there any problems I'm missing? Option 1 seems to me to be the best, being the shortest run and using the existing hole in the roof, but I'm concerned with the inadequate flashing (less than an inch). Is there a way to increase the size of the flashing safely?

Tub cavity

By tub cavity I mean the space between the outside-front and the inside-front of the tub. Through the tub cavity might seem like an odd option, but it is the most direct route and I see no problems other than that if the tub is replaced in the future the dryer and duct will have to be pulled out. The back cavity of the tub isn't suitable as there are pipes in the wall that would prevent the duct from going that way.

I think Option 1 is your best option, but could you explain what you meant when you said that, "roof vent dampers won't operate at this steep of a pitch."

Are you concerned that they won't open, won't close, or both? A straight 10' run of 150 CFM dryer exhaust won't have any problem opening the damper, if anything you'll have a problem with it staying completely closed when the dryer off.

If you have a problem with it staying closed, then take a galvanized zinc nut and glue it to the vent to hold it down when the dryer is off and to prevent gusts of wind from lifting it. These vents are usually installed around 35 degrees, but yours is at 75 degrees, so you'll want to vent flap to be heavier to stay closed as it will be almost vertical.

Don't forget to remove the screen mesh from the vent if you're using it for a dryer!


Unable to remove push-pull stopper from tub drain I need to remove our push pull style drain stopper in our bathtub so I can get the snake the drain. I've looked at several videos of all seemingly different style lift and turn stoppers, and none have helped.

Here are the best pictures I managed to get: https://imgur.com/a/xSqYB8g

Some info about the stopper:

There is no screw under the cap/knob.
There is a ball bearing on the post/rod that depresses when pushed shut (spring-loaded?).
The cylinder holding the rod has a flat side, but is inside the drain itself. The ball bearing doesn't act differently when turned to this part of the cylinder.
The cap looks like it's screwed onto the rod, but the opening is barely large enough to get needle nose pliers in. I have some small vice grips, but the nose is too get a good grip on the center rod.
The cap + stem rotates when turned, whether popped up or down
I think the drain/tub assembly are from Danze, but a lot of the other drains in this house are Kholer, but I couldn't find any useful information regarding this style stopper from them.

Any suggestions? Short of dissembling the pipes or ripping it out with a crowbar, I'm kind of out of ideas.

For what it's worth, the stopper in this question is likely the same, but the accepted solution was to use a plastic drain stick, which I've already tried: How do I remove a push-pull tub drain stopper?
. Also, it doesn't actually answer the question: how do you remove this stopper?

Top of the stopper

Inside of the stopper (note: ball bearing, no set screw)

EDIT: I never managed to get the stopper out. I think to remove it, I would have to take @Programmer66's suggestion to go in from the access panel in the hallway and open up the drain pipe to remove it from there.

Since my plastic drain stick was coming up clean, but was long enough to reach the end of the drain itself, I figured the clog was further down than that. I removed the cap on the overflow drain and used a 15-foot drain snake to remove a hair clog deeper in the pipes.

You just have to grip the whole top assembly with a channel lock or vise grip, taking precaution to not damage the finish. Slowly turn counter-clockwise. Also trying squirting WD-40 with the tube under the cap, Wait a few minutes, and try again.  Removing the cap off the stem will reveal the pop-up mechanism.  I have a picture of my cap removed.  Either the cap will come off at the top or the whole stem will unscrew at the "Cross" about 1.5" down in the drain. The stem in the middle of the drain will unscrew from the cross bar you see even if the cap is stuck. Using WD-40 will either loosen the bottom or top or both. When using the Pliers, use a rag to protect the edge and give gentle twist counter-clockwise.

Also try this using a small wrench,  The size that slip on the flat sides on mine was 10MM,  about 3/8".  In the tub, it should be flat enough to just slip the wrench in.

IF the whole assembly is rotating, see picture below, then the retaining nut beneath the tub has loosened.  Remove the retaining nut, disconnect drain from downspout, and remove the complete assembly.


A shorted to ground compressor can't be a pre-existing condition can it? Our home warranty company is trying to deny our a/c claim because the technician they sent said, our compressor was 'shorted to ground.' They say that this was a pre-existing condition and that because of that, they will not provide full payment to correct the issue.

We have only had the home for a year and the home passed the purchase inspection. We expressed this to the warranty company and their response was that ' yeah, they couldn't have seen this'.  Which I completely understand because the short occurs inside the compressor, correct?

My question is it how could this be a pre-existing condition? It only became a 'condition' once the wire grounded... a grounded wire either is grounded or it is not grounded, there is no pre to it, right?

I agree with Harper they are trying to rip you off . The unit worked when you purchased the home now a year later? They say there was a pre existing condition, I say BS! Compressor  oil can go acidic in a very short time, infact a brand new compressor installed in an acidic system that was not properly flushed and new filter dryer added can short to ground in just a few days.  What causes systems to short to ground? The leading cause is moisture getting in the system and mixing with the oil, once there is moisture in the oil it will go acidic and start etching the insulation off the wires once the insulation is gone they short to ground.  There is no way to say this was pre existing it probably happened from sitting all winter. I would fight them on this especially since you have had the home for a year, if it happened within a month I could see them calling it preexisting. Call another hvac company and get there opinion, (I do have a universal 608 hvacr license and a 609 Mvac so this is not an uninformed opinion).


Toilet bowl level drops after flushing I just installed a new Kohler toilet. It flushes fine but after the flush the level of water in the bowl slowly drains. Why would this be and is it anything to worry about?

More than likely the tank is filling the bowl above the bowl's fill level, and the bowl drains slowly until it's level with the top of the trap (or siphon).

Unless it's completely draining, there's really nothing to worry about.


What's this black handle on my fireplace? It moves up and goes left My fireplace is manufactured by arrowhead brass. Its a gas fireplace. There's a part to the left outside of the fireplace curtain and it's this iron black handle thing as seen in the picture. It moves up, then left and stays there.

I found this 5 year old unanswered question because I'm in search of a similar question for my own fireplace insert except that I'm looking for a rod.  I bet this is the damper control lever (yes, not the same damper as the one at the top center of the stove.  This damper should be in the in the flue- and I bet this little rod both moves and pulls out (pulls out to close the damper and moves to hold it closed).  I should add that the damper itself (the disk) will never completely close, it's missing approx 1/4 top of the circle where the joint is, probably for safety purposes so perhaps it is for gas as well.

These inserts are so old, mine is a 1970 Fisher Grandmother stove and boy is this a wild goose chase!


What Kind of Outlet Allows 1 In-Wall Light Switch w 2 Outlets to Control 2 Sconces w Semi-Independent On/Off Buttons & Outlets on Each? I have a bathroom light switch with two outlets and one light switch. The switch turns on/off two wall-mounted sconces. Both sconces have their own on/off buttons and an outlet. The buttons on the switches will not turn the lights on unless the wall switch is flipped on. If a sconce's button is set to off, flipping the wall switch will not turn it on. Neither of the sconce's outlets will work if their light is turned off by button or switch. Neither sconce's button can control what happens with the other sconce. What kind of in-wall outlet/switch is this? How many poles and ways is it going? What would I need to buy to just replace the in-wall switch with two outlets? Thx

Your switch sounds like a normal single pole switch.  Someone basically wired up the switch to the sconce which already had switches so they could leave the sconce switch on all the time and turn both sconces on with the wall switch only.

So nothing fancy - you should be able to just get a standard outlet to replace the wall switch and run the line to the sconces as "load" from the new outlet.  However since this is a bathroom you might want a GFCI outlet as extra protection.


How to secure a cutting disc on a smooth electric motor arbor..unthreaded How can I secure a cutting disc on a unthreaded motor arbor? I tied collars but the disc still wouldn't stay secure. Motor is a 3/4 hp, 1735 rpm, 5/8" smooth arbor. It has a slot or notch for a locking "key" but the cutting disc isn't notched for locking. Cutting disc is 6 1/2" x 1/8" x 5/8" hole
Thanks!

File an appropriately sized notch in the cutting disc and use a key. Obviously this depends on the disc material and will not work for all discs.


How do you secure wood framing to a concrete basement floor? I'm using Pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate in a basement finishing project.

What should I use to seperate the wood from the concrete?
What are ways to secure the bottom plate to the floor?

Pressure treated "PT" lumber is made for damp areas, where there's moisture and direct contact to concrete or earth. Make sure to use the proper coated anchors for Pressure treated lumber. such as hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. there's more detail about this below.. keep in mind pressure treated is not only a preservative it is also a poison to prevent termites..

An alternative you can consider using fir or pine as your bottom plates, if on concrete you can't have direct contact. lumber will take the moisture from concrete and either cause dry rot. To prevent that from happening lay down sill gasket a foam like material in a roll.. made for this reason.. and can be found in most home hardware locations..

Commencing in early 2004, the pressure treated wood industry ceased producing CCA treated wood for many residential uses.
 A number of replacements have been developed including Copper Azole (CA), Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ) and Sodium Borate (SBX).

With the change, ACQ and CA will almost certainly be the preservatives used in generically designated “pressure treated” sawn lumber
in use in building construction. SBX treated lumber is available but would need to be specified as such.

Practices and customs that were adequate with CCA treated lumber may not be appropriate for use with the new products.

Some of these “next generation” wood preservatives are significantly more corrosive to metal than was CCA treated wood.
Current information suggests that this increase in corrosion particularly applies to CA (and ACQ but not to SBX)

The use of hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners with the pressure treated wood, and avoidance of
contact of aluminum with pressure treated wood have been long standing recommendations; although, in practice,these
have frequently been overlooked with no serious consequences (other than pitted aluminum flashings).
With the new preservatives these recommendations should no longer be ignored. Thus it is important to specify and
obtain appropriate corrosion resistant materials to ensure adequate service life for fasteners and connectors.

Aluminum should not be used in contact with pressure treated wood. Spacer materials or other physical barriers are
recommended to prevent direct contact of pressure treated wood with aluminum products.

I realize this is an old post but i hope this information helps people looking for the right answers. if you would like help with anything else look up my page up on facebook- RCM Construction


using two oven in one outlet I have two ovens.  One is 20 amp at 240 V and Second is 30 amp at 240V.  And I have one 240 V 50 amp outlet hook up to one circuit.  Would this be sufficient enough to run two ovens without overheating the wire and overload the circuit breaker?

I been told the 1 circuit could handle two appliances.  I been told electricity 20+30 amp is not equal to 50 amp.  They use the average amperage withdrawal calculation to calculate the circuit could handle it.

My question would 50 amp 240 V  circuit could handle these two ovens without heating the wire or blowing the circuit?

These ovens will be turn on at the same time.

NEC 220.55

The load for household electric ranges <...> individually rated in excess of 1.75 kW shall be permitted to be calculated in accordance with Table 220.55.

Based on note #3; since one range is rated 7.2 kW (30A x 240V) and the other is 4.8 kW (20A x 240V), we are able to simply add the total rated kW of both and multiply it by the demand factor as found in Column B -- you have 2 appliances that are both between 3.5 and 8.75 kW, so the demand factor here is 65%.
7.2 kW + 4.8 kW = 12 kW
12 kW x 65% = 7.8 kW or 7800 W
7800 W / 240 = 32.5A
Finally, since the oven circuits are under 600V and noncontinuous loads, the following code applies:
NEC 210.19(A)(1)(b)

The minimum branch-circuit conductor size shall have an allowable ampacity not less than the maximum load to be served after the application of any adjustment or correction factors.

..., i.e. your conductors (wires) should be sized to at least 32.5A (they should be already) and your breaker should then be sized to your wires (which it is.)
Your current 50A breaker will suffice for this application.


Can I use 4x4 posts as the primary support for a deck? I have an old cedar deck, and most of the decking and vertical support posts are rotted out. I'd like to rebuild the deck as-is, just replacing the rotting pieces.

The current design is as follows:

2x8 treated ledgers anchored to concrete foundation
2x8 treated joists coming off the ledgers
2x8 treated rim joists around the edges
4x4 cedar posts around the edges (4 foot intervals), sitting on concrete footings
Posts are notched and are supporting the rim joists, attached with nails
There are no other supporting posts or beams
Deck extends about 8 feet out from the house
Deck is about 4 feet off the ground for one section, and 2 feet off the ground for the other section
Deck is located in Texas, so snow is not a concern

My concern is that all the information I've found on decks shows people using 6x6 posts as the main supporting structure, with beams on top of those and joists on top of the beams. I only see 4x4 posts used to form the supports for the railings.

I'm hoping to use the current design, and replace all of the posts, decking, and railings. The only significant change I have planned is to attach the posts to the rim joists using carriage bolts instead of nails. Is it reasonable to have 4x4 posts as the primary support, or do I need to consider more significant design changes?

Around here, 4x4s are not uncommon. This table shows that a 4x4 pine post that is 6 ft or shorter can support a load area of up to 10 ft² assuming 50 lbs/ft².

Don't trust me or a random table on the internet; make our own calculations from tables in the building code or other trusted sources and consider having them checked by an engineer.


How should I connect my light fixture in this ceiling box? Electrical box wire at 12 position is hot. That bundle has black white and ground. I Want to install light fixture with two wires...what is proper connections. I assume wire bundle at 3 o’clock is from switch red white black and ground...but just not sure how the connections should go
Thanks for any help

Wire nut two blacks together.  Push them back in the box.  Attach new fixture black to red. Connect all whites together.  Connect all grounds together.


Attaching sill plate to concrete, how do I attach framed wall to sill plate? I am building a 12x12 shed on a concrete slab. I am going to bury j-bolts in the wet concrete so that I can attach the treated sill plate to it. The problem I'm running into is that the nut will be protruding from the top of the sill plate, meaning that I can't just set the fully framed wall on top of it. How do I get around this problem?

Put another way, I will have a treated 2x4 flat on the concrete, then another 2x4 flat on top of that. The nuts holding the treated 2x4 in place will prevent the second 2x4 from laying flat.

I hope that my description makes sense.

Drill a hole, or a recess, into the bottom plate of the prefab wall, so the bolts holding the sill plate to the concrete just slide right in/through.

Or, drill a similar recess into the sill plate, recess the nut into the sill plate (probably with a washer to spread the load over the thinner wood), and grind/cut the bolt off level with the top of the plate.

Whatever you do, make sure this doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the sill plate or wall (shouldn't) or introduce any potential for leaks or collected water inside the recesses or holes (again, shouldn't, provided the skin of the shed remains watertight and you're not saturating the inside with a hose on a regular basis)


Please help me understand how to wire a circuit for this welder I have a dual voltage tig welder I want to wire a circuit for in my garage. The welder will be the only equipment plugged into this.
Attached is the spec sheet, requiring a 30a breaker (and will be using 10/2 NM) for 110v, and a 50a for 220v. This will be run on 110v only. The feed to this detached garage is 8 gauge, on a 40a breaker in the main panel. May upgrade this in the future, but not at the moment.
The welder has a 5-15P plug as shown for 110v operation. What receptacle am I supposed to use that will be safe on this 30a circuit? I am not entirely sure what is correct in this application. Can I use a 5-20r receptacle? I feel like no.

Correct.  This welder has given you a real "jack-a-doodle" set of specs that make no sense at all.  Running 120V/15A is only there so if you have light jobs, you can get 'em done using existing circuits... if you were wiring in a new circuit just for the welder, you would NEVER run 120V, since 240V is a possibility.
What's more, 30A+ 120V sockets and plugs are exceedingly rare and fairly useless for any other purpose.  They are only used for small travel trailers.
So here's what I would do if I were you.
Forget 120V. Go 240V if you are wiring a circuit.
I would use a 30A, 240V breaker.  (not least, 30A/120V breakers are rarely used and practically useless. Your local store's stock will be covered in dust.)
I would use 10/3 w/ground cable to bring that out to a NEMA 14-30 receptacle (standard 4-prong dryer plug) and wire that up all proper. (4 wires, neutral and ground separate).
Since the factory power cord is only #12, I would lop off the NEMT 6-50 plug and wire it to a NEMA 14-50 plug.  Don't use the neutral pin, you don't need it.
Why 120/240V
First and foremost, because presence of a 30A+ 240V socket in your garage, adds value to  your house.  Lots of home buyers these days are looking for electric car charge ports, so seeing that 14-30 ready to go will give you an edge with some buyers.
But also for $3 more in /3 wire instead of /2 wire, and probably $5 savings by buying a more popular socket, you now have plenty of power for the welder.  You're gonna have welding problems as you learn, but at least now, you won't have to worry about power being a problem.
An alternate plan
If you don't like having to change the welder plug, and still want that "electric vehicle" home equity bump, then do this, instead.

Fit a 40A breaker in that 40A subpanel. Really.  Trust me.
Run 8/2 wire.
Use a NEMA 6-50 receptacle. (really. NEMA refuses to define a 40A receptacle, so NEC just says use the 50A).

That was easy.
You still get to "count coup" on the electric vehicle capability, since EVSE's don't actually need neutral.
Yes, I know you have other loads in the 40A subpanel.  The 40A breaker is allowed because of the really weird provisioning rules NEC has for welders.  It gets into lots of complicated stuff about duty cycle.  The gist is your hobby welder doesn't actually need a full 40A provisioned to it, but it's allowed to use a 40A breaker and socket because when it's on, it can draw that much.
Also, let's talk about that #8 feeder wire to the garage. We might be able to bump that feeder up to 50A.


a/c condensation line not draining I have a unit that is installed in the attic and is about 2 years old. For the first year everything was fine and then one day it wouldn’t run.  So I hooked up the shopvac and sucked the condensation line outside and it started up.  This worked for about a week and then I had to redo, then it became a daily occurrence.
I have cleaned out the drain pipe, poured bleach in it and still no luck. I put some anti-algae tablets a few inches away from the primary condensation opening.  I have checked the outside drain and nothing. It seems to be just draining in the secondary overflow pan under the unit which is a pain because it fills up and hits the overflow switch and shuts off.

Given that it worked fine for a year, I wonder if something came loose and produced a dip in the line. I used to have to maintain a few dehumidifiers that were (supposedly) drained by garden hoses connected to the tanks. The garden hoses went down to a drain 12 feet below, so you'd think there would be plenty of incentive for the water to drain, and yet fairly slight bends in the hoses (not pinching them) that were below the tank would still manage to hang up the drains to the point that they would fill the tank and shut off. We'd go rearrange them and the tank would drain, but some time later things would shift enough that the problem recurred. It was not a good system.

Not sure if I'd go for trying to solve what's there, or putting in a larger drain line on general principles, but then, I don't know what size yours actually is, just that it seems common for A/C installers to use tiny pipes (and sometimes hoses, or sections of hose) for the condensate drains.


Delay relay to control water level This is my first post here so I won't take offense in any restructuring, closing, migrating...

Project description

I have a tank of water, and its level is always decreasing (for all intents and purposes, it's like it's leaking). I have a pump constantly adding water into this tank. I want to make sure the tank never overflows (I can't tell in advance how fast water will leak, and pump rate is constant).

Materials

So I have a Eltako MFZ61DX-UC delay relay and a float switch (tiny plastic floater that closes the circuit based on water level). What I want to do is quite simple: when water gets too high, stop the pump for 30 seconds so that water level lowers.

The float switch can be placed in either direction, meaning it's either always open, and closes when water gets too high, or it's always closed and opens when water gets too high. That's easy. But it's also important to delay so that the pump doesn't just keep turning off and back on again when water level is close to the float switches level.

That's where the relay comes in. It has several delay functions to choose from (and more info can be found on its notice):

Question

Based on this 1 page notice for the relay, is this doable? Looking at the 6 modes of this relay, it looks like all you can do is temporarily turn on something, not temporarily turn it off. Am I misunderstanding this? Is there some way to wire it so that it'd work?

I have never used a relay but I feel like logically, it should switch between 2 circuits (and not just open and close one), but if that's the case, this notice doesn't make a good job telling me how to wire this whole thing.

If I can oversimplify my question with 2 simple drawings: the notice indicates two terminals for the relay (1 & 2 on the drawing on the left), but I'd like to know where is the third one (3 on the drawing on the right).

Bonus question

In case the first question doesn't work out, can someone point me towards a relay that can actually do what I want here?

For the lazy amongst you, here's a "typical wiring" of this relay, found on the notice. With that and everything else provided before, you should have enough info to answer my question without looking through the notice.

You are correct that a dead-band is needed to prevent the pump from constantly cycling on and off when it is near the set point. That is why these systems use a high and low float or sensor.

It seems like you are making this way too difficult by timing the pump off instead of using a second float.

A fill pump controller like this would do what you want.

Most tank level control systems use something like this, not a timed system.

Good luck!


Replace MR16 downlight bathroom help please! Hi everyone
Please help. I cannot find a way to replace the MR16/GU5.3 bulb in my bathroom downlight.  There are no tabs to release the bulb.  I have pulled down the entire assembly but the bulb cannot be released from behind as it is restricted by a ring built in to the assembly. So I cannot seem to release it while it is in position and I cannot release it by removing the assembly from the ceiling.  I dont think it is a sucker type either.  Any ideas? Thanks

Normally you need to pull down on the silver ring to get access they are commonly spring loaded and even tension on either side downward will pull it about 3” down then the lamp has a spring clip holding it in place. Some have fancy levers that lock the power socket and hold the lamp in place when it is pushed back up. I would be trying to find an LED replacement because these lamps have a very short life for the cost.


How to measure screws? I was just looking at some timber screws online and was confused about the sizing. For example, the dimensions of one screw were, "18 - 7 x 200mm". Another one was 14g x 150mm.
From what I understand, the first number in both cases refers to the diameter,  7 to the number of threads per inch/mm (not given in the second example), and then the length.
Are the units used for the diameter the same in both examples (i.e, could the "18" in the first example also be written 18g)?
Here are links to product pages for each of the screws:

18 - 7 x 200mm: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/buildex-18-7-x-200mm-landscaping-construction-screw_p2410356
14g x 150mm: https://www.bunnings.co.nz/zenith-14g-x-150mm-galvanised-type-17-bugle-head-timber-batten-screws-25-pack_p2410108

You are correct in assuming that 18 is actually 18G (gauge), according to Buildex packaging. Typically the second number is TPI (threads per inch) but with metric dimensions the second number is thread pitch (distance between threads). In this case 7mm seems unlikely, so I will assume TPI since I am unable to find documentation stating otherwise. 200mm is the overall length of the screw.


Are all stainless steel plumbing fixtures lead free and safe for potable water? Typical (brass) plumbing fixtures will explicitly state that they are lead free and be certified NSF-61, potable water, etc.

However, most stainless steel plumbing parts (like ball valves and schedule 40 pipe and fixtures, etc.) make no mention of potable water, lead, drinking, etc.

Assuming I source from US distributors (mcmaster, for instance) is it safe to assume that stainless steel plumbing fixtures are lead free, or even "zero lead" and are totally safe for drinking water ?

Thanks.

Just to be a smart azz if you check prop 65 stainless has chromium way worse some say.

To be truthful about lead stainless has no lead. Stainless has issues , have you ever seen a stainless boat? But for drinking water I would verify the seals were safe  more than the metal. but as far as lead I would not be concerned.

Just for fun ;
For many years 60/40 solder was used with copper plumbing but back in the 70’s we changed to non lead solder on water pipes for copper but at that time plastic pvc and cpvc became the standard of it was not copper , prior to this it was galvanized, and prior to galvanized lead pipe was commonI have found lead water supply pipes in homes that were pre 20’s but mostly only drains after that time.

To answer your question stainless will not have lead , but verify the seals are potable this is the maybe in my answer.


4x6 wood swingset beam, single span, center load max lbs? I'm building a swing set with a 10 ft 4x6 pine beam.

I would like to determine how much active load the beam can support at the center point,  or at least minimally how much static load.

I've tried researching different online calculators but I'm not finding exactly what I'm looking for a.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Forte Web is an excellent tool for designing wood beams.

That being said, it can take a point live load at mid-span of 610 pounds. Make sure you purchase #1 or select structural. You don't want any knots in the beam because of the types of forces a swing will apply to it.


Are there any restrictions regarding power plugs and wiring in the same wall with plumbing (kitchen adjacent to bathroom) I have a kitchen and a bathroom that share a common wall
On one side I have a stove, a dishwasher and two power outlets
On the other side I am going to install a shower and a sink like below
bottom ones from left to right: stove and dishwasher power outlets
top ones: regular above the counter power outlets
Is this arrangement OK ?

Having your large appliances or standard receptacles on the opposite side of a bathroom wall is fine by code. There is nothing special you need to do.
Just a reminder the kitchen requires 2 ea 20 amp small appliance circuits, the bathroom requires it’s own circuit for the receptacles in there.


Ceiling fan & lights turn on automatically I couldn't find someone with the same problem so here goes:

I've replaced a ceiling fan (the old one had some parts missing), but as soon as I put the power back, the light and fan turn themselves on even when the light switch on the wall is off. Playing with the light switch (on and off and on and off) does nothing either. They respond when I pull their chains, though.

The new fan is a canarm Neptune 42" with no remote (product page: http://www.canarm.com/Residential/Ceiling_Fans/CeilingFans/42/CF42NEP4BN)

I have two wires coming out of the ceiling outlet: a black and a white
I have four wires from the fan: green, white, black and blue

I shut off the power (breaker off) and then, as per instructions in the manual, I left the green (ground) by itself, connected the two white wires, connected the two black wires together then added the blue to the connection. As soon as I restored the power (aka put the breaker on), the light and fan were on and not responding to their switch on the wall.

I started googling and found a video where I was told to first connect the fan's black and blue wires together and then to connect them to the ceiling's black wire. Sadly, the problem remains as before.

I would gladly accept suggestions, thank you in advance for your help!

It sounds like you have a hot wire that is bypassing the wall switch. Be very careful because you make think you have a dead circuit when you actually have a live one. Make sure you are using a circuit tester before you grab a wire.

You are going to have to determine that you have both the black (hot) and the White (neutral) wires that are actually connected to the light switch. You can do this fairly easily if you have a multi meter. First, make sure you gave opened the circuit breaker and test for voltage at the switch. Once you determine that you have no electricity to the switch disconnect the black and white wire that leads to the çeiling box.  from the switch. Connect these 2 ends together using a wire nut. Then take your multi meter to the ceiling box and set it to measure ohms resistance. Touch one lead to the black wire and the other lead to the White. You should get a reading of almost 0. If you get a reading off scale high then one of those wires does not go directly to the switch.
 - List item

then


When should screws be used for general wood framing? I was wondering what sort of fasteners are best for general Wood Framing? I understand that in general construction is done 100% with nails, but as a small time, diyer, I am looking for best practices.

My understanding is that general nails are superior for shearing forces, so must always be used in connecting floor joists and other similar applications.

While wood screws hold far better against force pulling them straight out (structural screws seem to be a thing as well, but are relatively rare and expensive).

Am I right in thinking that I should use screws for subfloor, top and bottom plates, etc.
And nails for joists, gussets, headers, ect.?

As a commenter pointed out, we also have adhesive. Is their any reason not to use this liberally? I understand it is beneficial to add some when securing a subfloor. But I could use it on the ends of studs and under trusses to supplement hurricane clips, and between gussets, if too much rigidity was not a bad thing.

The short answer is that, for residential framing, the only situations that call for screws are:

Where building hardware specifies screw fasteners
Where squeaks are a concern and adhesive would be impractical
Where access is limited with respect to hammers or air nailers
Where the need for later non-destructive removal is expected

Everything else is usually done with appropriately-sized nails or staples, some of which should be adhesive-coated, ring-shanked, or otherwise special.

I won't endeavor to list all appropriate fasteners and their use-cases here, as that would be an inappropriately broad topic for this site. The most common pneumatic fasteners in my area are ~3" cement-coated framing nails, ~2-3/8" ring-shank nails, and 1-1/2" to 2" cement-coated narrow-crown staples.

Construction adhesive is appropriate for reducing noise and making structures feel more solid, as in staircases. It is not, however, rated for weather resistance scenarios. Mechanical fasteners and building hardware fills that role.


What is the purpose of ABS pipe in an irrigation manifold I need to replace a failed electric valve in my drip irrigation manifold. The pipes leading to each valve are 3/4" PVC, but they in turn are enclosed in what looks like black ABS pipe, at least 1/2" wider than the PVC. These pipes are open at the top. What is the purpose of the black pipe? Protecting the PVC somehow? I need to cut some of the black pipe away in order to get to the PVC so I can replace the valves.  Any ideas?

It appears the black pipe is there to protect against impact damage. Were it not there the PVC could shatter relatively easy since it degrades in sunlight.


How to repair botched, colored concrete? We have a back patio with colored concrete that was poured last year. When the concrete was poured, it looked like the color was only picked up by the first half of the pour. The contractor poured the concrete mid-day when it was at least 110 and ended up not doing a proper finish because it was too hot for them to keep working. The result was the concrete ended up with slurry and trowel marks everywhere.

The contractor attempted to fix the concrete by putting some type of sealer over the top which ended up looking even worse.

What can we do (besides pulling everything up and re-pouring the concrete) to seal the concrete properly and get rid of the blemishes (see photos)?

From the photos, you can see the sealer splashes, improper broom marks, chipping everywhere, etc...

Click an image to see it full-sized.

I'm not a concrete expert, but if you don't mind a little extra height (which is often good for aesthetic and drainage reasons,anyway) you might try:

Sandblast the crud off of the top layer of the slab. You want to leave the surface roughened too, and sandblasting accomplishes both.
Was the old slab reinforced with mesh or rebar?  If not, then maybe lay some reinforcing mesh down now.  If it was me, I'd use concrete screws to fasten it, every couple of feet.
Saturate the old concrete with water, so it doesn't "rob" the new concrete while it's curing.
Pour at least an inch of "topping" or small-aggregate concrete.
Finish to taste.

It's probably best to test everything on one slab first, to see how it goes.
See this article for another take on it.

If you do mind the extra height, sandblast and wet, but just use a thin layer of proper topping or finishing cement.  Don't be surprised if it doesn't hold-up as well, though.

Just about any hardware store carries "Topping" cement.  A very common product is QUIKRETE® Topping Mix. Note that it requires an additional "Acrylic Fortifier" if you use it only in a thin layer.

For an even thinner overlay, there are "skim coat" products like "SonoSkim Concrete Surface Finishing".  I've never seen one of these hold up in high traffic areas, but you can reapply it as needed.


Ways to Safely Repair 45 Degree Pitched Roof without Jacks? What methods can a person use to safely repair a roof that is slanted at a 45 degree (or greater) angle without using Roof Jacks?  Is there anyway it is possible for a person to safely walk on such a roof or would the chance of a fall be too great?

You wear a harness attached to a rope that is thrown over the roof and tied to something solid such as a tree.

The harness kit may look like this:

The harness is most often used in a manner as shown here. A short connecting rope goes from the middle of the high back over to a D-Clip that then attaches to the main safety rope via a Robe Grab.

Rope grabs come in various styles (one shown below) but are basically designed to permit them to slide along the rope when they are directly pushed but will clamp tightly on the rope when pull tension is applied to the connecting ring from the D-Clip and short rope to the roofer.

This picture shows a harness in use on a roof....albeit not quite as steep as the OP has asked about.

Here is another in use application.


Can i turn a light switch into an outlet? Ok so here's the deal, I have a light that is controlled by two switches. One is in my bathroom and the other is in my hallway where the light is located.  I would like to eliminate the switch in the bathroom and replace it with an outlet that is hot all the time.  First of all, can this even be done?  If so how do I go about doing this.

First, is this legal?. NEC requires switches in certain specific locations.   What's more, some cities also require switches in cetain locations.   Not least, that's so emergency responders can get the lights on, so an EMT can treat you, or a cop doesn't shoot your son because she can't see that's a computer mouse.  Run this by your electrical inspector.

Ok then.

Turn off the circuit.  Look inside the lamp box. Is there 3-wire  (black white red) cable there?

We know there is 3-wire cable inside the switches, because that's how those switches work.

If this is on conduit we'll have to revisit.  But assuming this is done in cable... The 3 colors are always black white red.   Right mow the colors mean gibberish.  We will give the colors meaning.  And that means every place those 3-wire cables go, must be rewired.  The new meanings will be:

Black -- always-hot (no surprise there)
White -- actual neutral
Red - switched-hot

You must studiously follow this code everywhere in this network of 3-wire cable, or you'll get the sparky boomy.  now each device gets wired to the wires it wants:

switches get connect 2 wires to always-hot black and switched-hot red. If you are reusing 3-way switches, make sure to use a black screw, a brass will go unused.
receptacles get always-hot black on the brass screws, and neutral white on the silver screws.
lamps take switched-hot red and neutral white.   They usually have pigtail wires; the black or brown wire is switched-hot (red).  The white or light blue wire on the lamp goes to neutral.

After that, you wirenut-join all wires of the same color (remembering one lamp wire counts as red).

If you have any single wires left dangling, put a smaller wire-nut on them and tape them to keep the wirenut from falling off (they love to fall off singles).


Need some help removing a kitchen sink drain I'm trying to remove the drain/flange from a kitchen sink so that I can install a garbage disposal unit. I can not get the wide nut on the underside of the sink to turn. I'm assuming it's glued or rusted or painted into place. Is there any sort of special tool to help remove it or anything I can do to try and loosen it up? Right now I'm just using a 12 inch groove joint plier to try and remove it. It's just barely big enough to get a grip on it.

Attached is a photo of the underside of the sink

Tap (don't overdo it and break the "ears") with a hammer and nail or hammer and punch against the projecting "ears"  - and do as many of them as you can easily reach, rather than only tapping on the most accessible one (at least until the thing starts to move.)

Scribe a line before you start that goes across both parts so you can detect even a small movement. The shock of tapping may start to move things where grabbing with pliers won't budge it.

If no joy, add heat - use a serious heat gun if you have one, or a torch VERY carefully and pretty much so far out that the flame isn't directly contacting the sink parts, at least at first.


Is a 6 in. hole in a band joist okay? I'm installing a Zephyr AK6500 range hood. The kitchen is on the first floor a 2 story home, which was built in 1967.  I've run 6 in. round ductwork in a joist bay in the kitchen ceiling to the exterior. I still need to cut the hole in the siding and install the wall cap.

The joist bay is perpendicular to the band joist.

My concern is that I will have to cut a 6 in. hole in the band joist to attach the wall cap. Is that size hole okay?

I can't reinforce the band joist from the interior as the cabinets are already up.

You have not mentioned the size of the joist. If it is 2 x 10 or larger I don't see a problem (heck, 2 x 8 might even be fine). The band joist (I call it the rim joist) is primarily for providing an attachment point for the floor joists and for holding the floor joists plumb and true. The load of the wall and structure above is distributed across the bottom plate and all the floor joists, so I do not think there is a structural concern here.


Over the range microwave outlet lost power I have an over the range microwave that we have been using for 3 years with no problems. A couple of weeks ago it just stopped working, so I just figured it was time for a new one. I replaced the microwave and when I went to plug it in, it didn't work. I checked the breaker, it had not tripped, so I plugged It in to another outlet and it works fine.  I thought maybe the outlet needed to be replaced so I replaced it, still no power. The oven runs off the same breaker, it works fine. I'm out of ideas

Look for a GFCI outlet upstream that has tripped. Kitchens are full of them, but they also turn up in non-intuitive places like bathrooms, laundry rooms, beside electrical panels and garages.

Oh, and I just remembered that some breakers can have tripped without looking tripped. If the gfci trick doesn't work, go through your panel and turn each breaker off and on.

(Added to this answer b/c comments...)

If all that doesn't work, there's some circuit investigation needed. I'll let you decide if this is the kind of work you want to do or hand off to a pro. Some of this involves meters and live wires, so caution is appropriate.

Get into the microwave junction box and verify with a voltmeter that there's no current flowing.

I know you said the oven is on the same circuit and works, but humor me and start at the panel. (Danger alert! Open panels are hazardous! Main power off!) Check the connection of the microwave circuit to the breaker. Check that the breaker is seated properly. Temporarily move the microwave wire onto a different (but same amperage) breaker to see if it was your breaker that failed. (Please tell us if your breakers are Zinsco or Federal Pacific.)

If you seem to be getting power out of the panel into the microwave circuit, then some work follows. You'll need to follow the wire from the microwave junction box on its way back to the panel. (You might be lucky and find that the first one is just below at the stove and that the issue is located there.) A tone generator (under $100) will help a lot. (Most inexpensive tone generators want the power to be off, so strongly suggest you turn off the whole house when you're tracing.)

You need to identify every junction box that the wire goes into and hopefully find a disconnection. Look for loose wire nuts, burnt smells, charred wire... anything out of the ordinary. In an ideal world, you'll find a bad connection and be able to fix it. Otherwise, you'll have found a stretch of wire where one junction box is live and the other is dead. (Sadly, there are cases where people (jerks!) bury junction boxes or connections under drywall.) It's rare but possible that wire in the wall has been broken -- vermin chewing, or a nail that partly broke the wire that's finally failed.

At this point, you want to be careful that you've accurately mapped your wiring, but you're probably in need of a new section of wire from the live junction box to the dead one. I'd seriously consider calling in a pro at this point to make sure everything is correct.


Side effects of wire mesh inside vent covers I am considering tacking wire mesh (such as from a window screen) onto the inside of my indoor furnace/AC duct vents as well as the outdoor intake vents, for pest control. I know doing it inside the house might be a little overkill, but I'm wondering if there would be any side effects on furnace/AC performance due to the fans having to work harder to force the air through.

Typical screening can reduce airflow about 50 to 70%. This could destroy the efficiency of your AC and heating units and possibly burn out the fan. Placing any type of screen on intake or exhaust of your furnace could cause it to shut down as it thinks there is a blockage in the venting. Your furnace /AC unit already has a filter on the intake side of the fan so you wouldn't need screening on the individual vents in the rooms.


Vertical position of cable railing tightening anchors for stairs I am installing cable railing parallel and below my stair banister. They will be anchored in the newel posts. I am using a simple anchor (picture right) on one side and a tightening one (picture left) on the other.

Does it matter which of the two takes which vertical position? E.g. is it important that the tightening anchor be on top or on the bottom of the stairs or does it matter?

It doesn't matter. I'd put the larger one where it's less conspicuous.


Repair Ceiling Hole for Round old work ceiling box I am replacing an old light that was above my sink and the box was so brittle it broke and I could not mount the new light. I removed the "new work" box and the drywall around it crumbled. Now the hole is too large for a new work box. Any ways to fix this? Really hoping I do not have to have someone come and repair a large section of drywall in my ceiling. Thank you

Likely too late to be of use to OP, but for others who may come looking.

Look what's up there? Lath? Joists?
Cut a nice rectangular wallboard patch larger than the hole. Trace its outline on the ceiling.
Remove plaster within the outline so patch can fit in snugly. Ensure that opening is wide enough to access a joist to which box can now be affixed.
Install box.
Cut opening in patch to allow sufficient access into box.
Attach patch - now a rectangular frame - to ceiling structure.
Apply joint compound and finish

I'm in the midst of a repair where I'm stripping plaster off lath and will then glue and screw my patch in place. I can update once I'm done.


How to change a bath plug chain? I have been looking around for a tutorial to chane a simple bath plug chain. My chain has snapped, so the plug is not connected. I assumed it would be a simple job, but i can't find anything online about it.

Is it just a case of opening the "8" loops with a pair of pliers and the tightening them again? This is the plug I have:

Depends on where it snapped. If the '8s' just pulled apart, then yes, bend it closed again around the anchor it pulled off of. If the ball chain broke and one part is long enough, remove the connector between the '8' and the ball chain and remove the short piece and insert the longer piece then reassemble. You can also get a connector that attaches two ends of the ball chain or just get a fresh new length of ball chain.


Filling in holes in a wooden porch frame made by bees I have a question on filling in holes on the post of my sunroom.
left image: sunroom and a hole on the red box.
right image: a hole (on the red box).
The hole is about a half depth of the post.
Would you mind letting me know how to fill out the hole?
There are some holes which were made by bees. Maybe, carpenter bees.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Here are two that come to mind:

Drill the tunnel out to a larger, perfectly round shape. Glue a piece of wood dowel into the hole as a plug. It's not necessary to completely fill the hollowed space -- it would be good enough to make the plug as little as 1/4 inch thick.
Obtain or create some sawdust with a color similar to this wood. Mix it with epoxy, press it into the hole, and place plastic packaging tape over the hole to hold the epoxy (prevent it running out) until the epoxy has set.


How should I mount my wall cabinet by this pipe My kitchen has a sewage pipe that runs along the wall near the end of the cabinet run, it is a gallery type kitchen.  The original cabinets were in before the owners decided to add a layer of drywalll to the ceiling.  After removing the cabinets I realized there is a gap of about 1/2 inch because of the new ceiling that was added after the cabinets.  I started to add drywall to complete the ceiling for the new cabinets but am stuck st this random pipe end from the ceiling.

Prior cabinet had the pipe end sticking through the inside of the cabinet.  I might have to do the same but looking for some suggestions on what my options are.  See pics,  the purple drywall is new I ended up cutting it last minute because even after cutting s hole for the pipe I realized the ceiling was very uneven and almost nothing to attach the drywall to.

The same way it was, with it sticking through the inside of the cabinet, because it's a clean-out. If it's to a drum trap, you will need access to it in the future.


Options for replacing a broken kitchen faucet head? My kitchen faucet broke, the head piece where the water comes out fell apart, other than that the unit works.  I went to Home Depot and they sell the entire faucet instead of just the head. I wonder what is my option now and where I could find just the head?

For the individual faucet parts you will need to go to the manufacturer and purchase it from them (or another parts supplier... just search "kitchen faucet head" and you will find many different results).  You can also try just going to Lowes or Home Depot or your local hardware store and see if they have a generic replacement head.  The Home Depot site lists one: Spray-Head for Kitchen Pull-Out Faucets but it says it is only available in store.

But most likely the cost of the individual part (plus the shipping and handling) will be close to or more than putting in an entirely new faucet.  And since the head piece broke then most likely the rest of the faucet is getting old too so it might not be a bad idea to replace the entire kitchen faucet.  Replacing a kitchen faucet is not too hard; the hardest part is removing the old faucet (plus squeezing yourself under the sink).


A/C Condensation from duct getting into drywall My A/C unit has ducts that run to the second floor, into the attic, to feed some ceiling vents.

Today, after several days of brutal humidity, I noticed paint blistering, and in one spot bursting, around where the ductwork comes upstairs.

When we bought the house (also in the summertime), we noticed some blistering, and the inspector thought it might be from the roof. The seller replaced the roof, we had it re-inspected, and it was judged to be sound.

This water is in the same place. Since we hadn't had any rain today, I suspected it was the A/C, so I cut out the most-affected piece of drywall. Sure enough, there is an uninsulated metal pipe installed right up against the drywall, and the condensation is easily felt.

My question is: what can I do about this? For now, I've cut out the affected drywall and drilled a few other holes in affected areas, hoping to get some airflow through there at least.

But what should my near and long-term strategy be? Do I need to replace this metal section of pipe? (It looks like there's an elbow there; the space is not big enough for the plastic insulated flexible ductwork that we have downstairs). How can I prevent this issue from happening? Would a permanent vent into this space help?

The best way to combat the condensation problem is to insulate the riser duct, aka metal duct, that is causing the problem. There are several ways to do the job. The best way is to use a vapor-barrier & spray-on foam insulation,  but that can be costly and messy, unless done by a professional.  Another is to use Rock-wool to insulate the duct, but often there is not enough room in the wall to use it.  The insulation that I prefer to use is a Duct-wrap. It looks like bubble-wrap with small "bubbles" sandwiched between 2 layers of foil-lined plastic.  It all depends on how much money you want to spend and how much space there is between the duct and the drywall.
The short-term solution, is to install a duct-wrap. It is available at home improvement stores in the building products department in the insulation section. It generally comes in various lengths at a 4 foot width & can be cut to size with scissors (or a razor-knife, if you are careful).  To install it, simply measure the distance between the studs and add at least 12 inches to tuck the insulation behind the duct OR add 4 inches & staple it to the studs like traditional fiber-glass insulation. Cut the duct-wrap to size. You will also need to get metal (duct) tape to seal the seams between the upper piece and the lower piece of duct-wrap. It has a paper-backer to keep the glued side from sticking to itself. You will need to peel the paper-backer off when you install it.
The Long-term solution would be up to you.  You could hire someone to take apart your existing ducts and insulate them or you could do the job yourself, either way that is the only solution to your problem. And by the way, cutting a hole on the wall will only make matters worse by giving the humidity a direct path to the now un-insulated ducts.


Humidity Sensor Bathroom Fan (UK) Wonder if anyone can help?

I have just replaced an old timed electic fan with a new humidity / timed sensor fan.

The fan location has a  1x Perminant Live,  1x swiched Live (bathroom Light) and 1x Netraul.

Which is fine, however I dont want to use the switched live as I dont need the fan running when the light is turned on.

So my simple mind was thinking if I just exlude the switched live, the fan will not come on when the light is turned on.

However with the perminant live thats supplied via an isolation switch connected to the perminant feed on the fan the fan just contiuously runs (been on about 45 minutes since install and still running)

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Ok Guys

Realized the error of my ways

I had the humidity setting on 40%, once changed to a starting point of 90% (as read on another forum) the fan switched of after a short time.

Put a bit of steam in front of it and it tunred back on, which is how I wanted it, so all good now.


Kohler Push Button Diverter Leaking from Shower My plumber just installed the fixtures in my shower/tub and the shower stays running when the tub spout is running. I can tell he didn't even test it because when I turned on the water, I could hear the air getting flushed out. Even with the tub spout running at a low flow, the shower still leaks. All parts are brand new and I highly doubt the diverter is defective. Any feedback or tips would be appreciated. I called the plumber but he hasn't gotten back to me yet.

Here's a photo before tiling. Any ideas here? I'm fearful that we'll have to cut the drywall on the other side to fix this...

So it looks like it was a bad part, see the o-ring missing below. BTW, you just need a deep socket wrench to remove the diverter, I wasted a few hours looking for plumber's wrenches before figuring this out...lol.

Glad it's working now but this valve kit was brand new, seems odd that something so critical would be missing. Also the part that I pulled seems used or refurbished (see discoloration). I hope the rest of the valve is ok.


What can I use to rigidly hang a lot of flat/paper artwork on a wall? I have dozens of pieces of unframed artwork. I would like to hang them on the wall, in a way that is somewhat easy to rearrange. I'd like them to line up horizontally, and to be against the wall so they don't swing/flap as much when the room's ceiling fan is on.

I have in mind to simply buy a long piece of wood and glue a few dozen tiny clothes pins to it. I'm hoping there is some better / nicer / easier solution.

You could try painting it with a magnetic paint and use those strong small earth magnetics to hold the art up. The magnetic wall paint can be top-coated with a single coat of whatever colour you want.

There are a number of paints from different manufactures to choose from, some with better reviews than others. It seems multiple coats are needed, but other people report success. Strong magnets are a must.

I have not used this myself, but I have seen it used in a number of design magazines, etc.


Can PVC conduit be run through garage/house firewall? The wall between my garage and the rest of my house (US) is the usual drywall-insulation-drywall wall framed out with 2x4 studs.
Can I run 1.5" PVC conduit through that wall perpendicularly (e.g., not a run inside the wall, but straight through) from a utility room into the garage, provided I fire-caulk around the conduit on both sides?
Edit-
What would change if I used EMT instead of PVC?

That should be fine as long as it's Schedule 80 pipe (thanks, Ed Beal). A garage "firewall" isn't usually considered a fire-rated situation like you'd find in a multi-family dwelling. It's just a minor safety measure. Therefore, per my understanding, you wouldn't need a fire-rated penetration. You'd just need to seal it as you describe. Ask your local inspection office (even if you're not getting inspected) to be sure what they'd ask for.
Consider slipping a trim ring onto the pipe to cover the ugly red caulk if your garage is finished.


How do I correctly wire my ceiling fan with these other switches and outlet? First photo overall wiring, second fan switch, third Outlet switch.
I am trying to re-wire so that I can have separate ceiling fan light and motor switches. I thought this was simple enough but am having issues.
There are 4 cables coming into my wall gang box. Bottom cable is 14/2 for an outlet and is the power source. There are three different 14/3 cables. The first  runs to an outlet (which jumps to another outlet also using 14/3). This seems to have been done for the purpose of a wall switch for lamp (simpler for me to keep this if possible). Wiring at the outlet is both neutrals on one side, black- hot at top, red at bottom.
The second 14/3 is for my ceiling fan which comes with a light. I want to turn this into 2 switches as mentioned above (one for light, one for motor). The third 14/3 wire jumps from here to another wall to work as ceiling fan switch as well (don't need or want the switch but it apparently provides power to another outlet via electrical box in attic). The switch for the outlet was using the neutral (white from outlet wire) and 2 reds (one from outlet wire and one pigtailed from remaining reds).
(from one of OP's comments to an answer below)

Believe my issue is at the switch not the fan. I have 14/3 running to the ceiling fan. I already separated the fan wires. Hunter fan has black, white, blue, and ground. This has been wired to the 14/3 with black, white, red (to the fans' blue), and ground. Once it's back to the wall switch I should simply be able to have 2 switches by running pigtails off power source to each switch and then taking ceiling black (for motor) to one switch, other switch gets the red (for light), marry the neutrals, connect ground. It does not work because of the other wiring. Please help.....

How do I wire this correctly?

Given the most recent edit, including your comment below:
First, you need to figure out which circuit, out of everything you're working with, is the power-in. One of the easiest ways to do that is separate every circuit and turn the breaker back on, the wires that your tester reads as live is the one you want to work with as described below. Take pictures or label or draw a diagram so you can put it all back together once you're doing identifying which is the real power-in.
Somehow, your new wiring configuration is breaking the circuit or failing to complete the circuit that brings power from the panel. You need to figure out that first.
If you truly do have the end of the line there at that primary outlet you are saying is the power source, remove the black wire from the outlet (assuming you found that black is hot from the panel), throw three pigtails on it one goes back to the outlet and one to each switch (more conductors if you have more receptacles to power off it), follow the same idea with the neutrals and ground, and proceed from there as follows:
Starting from scratch, you would either run power to the fan mount jx box or to the receptacle box with the switches (usually just choose whichever creates the shortest path for the wiring), run a hot line to each switch nutted to the line voltage (power in), then run a separate hot line from the switch to the load connection. The switches need to open/close current to the fan and the light. The neutral should run through to the fan assuming the light and fan switches are dedicated. The ground should tie to switch and run to fan. Case #4 here describes the process and This is the diagram.
Now it sounds like you may be missing something, and your outlets may be wired in series and you just don't realize it. If you can't solve it with what I've laid out above, your next best thing is to find some receptacle box where it is a simple 2 conductor outlet, and run power to the fan or switches from there.
Deal with the other circuits as other circuits and be careful you aren't going to over-current the switches.


THHN use with Blue Plastic Romex Connector Switch/Outlet Boxes I extended my patio, added a pool, and a pool half bath (CMU construction) and now I am getting ready to wire it all together.
I planed to use 4 blue plastic boxes (1x 4 gang, 1x 2 gang, & 2x single boxes) that have Romex connections openings on the back to push Romex through and the "grabber tabs" on the back.  I would like to use THHN with these boxes because I have multiple circuits (ie. 4 gang) and have a GFCI with multiple outlets to wire in.
Questions:
#1.  Given concrete block walls mostly filled with concrete and nothing combustable, can I use THHN through the below described electrical conduit WITHOUT a connector from the end of the pipe (inside the CMU wall) to/through the back of blue box through the Romex pass through opening and still meet code?
Or #2.  Given built CMU walls and stucco formed around the blue plastic boxes and the laid-in conduit is also set in concrete, if I must keep the wires inside a pipe through a connector into the outlet/switch box and CANNOT simply span that very short distance (maybe 1/4 or 1/8 inch) than what type of connector should I use?
Or #3.  Given electrical conduit through the CMU walls to the point of the outlet/switch boxes, can I simply CUT OPEN the back of the blue boxes to more easily accommodate THHN running from the open pipe to the outlet/switches inside the concreted CMU walls?
Further detail to #3:  I have a PVC electrical piece male connector with a flat larger flange that fits inside a coupler.  Considering drilling the appropriate size hole in the blue plastic box and then glueing that male connector on from inside the box to meet up with/connect with the conduit inside the wall....thoughts?  (The conduit doesn't move due to concrete fill)
Or #4.  Given the holes for the blue boxes are in the CMU walls with stucco on, pipe laid in and block cavities filled, should I consider using a different outlet/switch box other than the blue boxes?
The half bath is built on the existing patio with CMU walls, with rebar/pins in some of the block and cavities filled with concrete.  I added electrical conduit to the CMU walls during construction so I could pass wires later and I had holes made in the block & stucco in order to fit the blue plastic remodelers boxes.  Above the new walls I connected electrical conduit from the pipe sticking up and ran that pipe to the point where I plan a good size electrical junction box (maybe 8"x10") that will sit above the patio sub panel.  All main power wires (#8 THHN) and the outlets/lights (min 12 ga) will pass through this junction box and go out to another point through conduit.
I laid in conduit & wire for a home-run to a sub panel on the side of my home for the pool equipment, a small sub panel in my shed in my back yard and a small sub panel on the new patio.  The 1st or main sub has 3 legs of #3 copper to an 80 amp breaker in my main panel for my home ('08 build w/200 amps service).  The 2 smaller subs in the shed and new patio have #8 copper leads and neutral each with a #6 ground wire to their own ground rod.  No heavy equipment only LED lights and ceiling fans.

You cannot use THHN without running it in conduit, with suitable terminations, all the way into the boxes.
The blue plastic boxes are not suitable for this use. They are cheap junk for running NM/B only, and not suited to other wiring methods, and it's dubious if they are suited to that, IMHO. I used them as an ignorant kid. I don't use them now. They are chintzy and fragile at best.
Masonry boxes, from steel, with knockouts, exist, and don't even cost much money.
You should have fully completed the conduit paths when building the wall (ENT is the classic masonry wall conduit) all the way into their boxes. You may now need to partially demolish your work and redo it correctly, if you have "formed blue boxes in place without addressing the need to connect to conduit" which is what I think I'm reading.
Each and every sub-panel needs 4-wires (or 3-wires and continuous non-flexible metallic conduit, but with a pool involved, you may need the wire anyway) from the main, or the upstream sub-panel - hot, hot, neutral and ground. Connecting them to a local grounding rod is fine, but not a replacement for a grounding wire (separate and isolated from neutral) all the way back to the Main Panel feed and bond point.


Wiring dimmer in box were hot wires are joined I want to replace a light switch in my home with a dimmer.
Each switch has one wire going into the wall and the other pigtailed with the corresponding wire from the other switch.
I am testing with the lights off.
I want to figure out which is the hot and which is the load wires before removing the old switch.
I have never used a multi-meter with AC power and the one I have is not very fancy. When I test the 2 terminals on the current switch, I get around 105 V (I guess there is something wrong with how I am making contact). When I reverse the leads, I still get the same value, not the negative.
I wanted to make sure the box is properly grounded. I thought that the single wire going into the wall was the hot; but there is no voltage difference between that wire and the box. There is a difference of 120 V between the pigtailed wires and the box. Again there is no difference when reversing the leads.
Are these pig-tailed wires hot and the single wires load?
The wiring diagram from the dimmer's instructions:

The wall box has 2 light switches in it:

First off, good for you. You want to figure out what's hot and what's the load wires before disconnecting everything. With the power off, pull the switches out of the box and pull out the bare copper ground just a bit. If there's a group of white wires, neutrals, you can remove the wire nut but don't untwist the wires. Make sure none of the groups of wires are touching each other. Now you can turn the power back on. Take the common (usually black) probe from your multi meter and touch the group of white wires and take the + probe, usually red, and touch it to the black wires one at a time where they are screwed into the switches. With the switches off, when you get 120 Volts +-,  those are your hot or feed wires and those will be pigtailed to both switches if one breaker controls both switches. The other wires connected to the switches are the loads.
Once you determine the hot wires by doing the above, take your black probe and put it on the bare copper ground wire and the red probe on a black hot wire. You should get 120 Volts+-.
Now you know you've got a ground and if it's connected to the metal box, the box is grounded too.
Make sure your meter is set to "AC Voltage" and the proper range. Since it's AC and not DC, you'll get the same readings when you reverse the probes.
Turn the power back off and connect your dimmers according to the diagram, recap the white wires, and connect your switch ground wire to the ground from the dimmers and push the switches back into the box and screw them in. Turn the power back on and test everything.


Rotating fitting for copper/steampunk faucet? Update 3 Years Later: A Shark Bite expansion joint/coupling is working great. Been using it many times a day for 3 years and no problems. Firm, rotates easily, and doesn't leak.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nfRxwakV6ib7BKwG7
I'm trying to build an exposed copper (think steampunk) kitchen faucet. Everything is easy except the ability to rotate the faucet side to side, like to reach the left sink or right sink.
See the image below. This one does not rotate left and right. How could one make it rotate (and not leak of course)?
Ordinary "swivel" fittings/couplings only swivel until they are tight. Once tight they cannot be rotated easily by hand. And if they're not tight, they leak.
Thanks!

I would try to use a push to connect fittings such as   shark bite . You could have a male threaded connection coming out of the Copper tee and a shark bite fitting  with the female threads on one side attached to that which would allow you to rotate the outlet pipe back-and-forth.

I don’t know what the long-term affects would be on the rubber o ring  inside  The fitting by having it swivel back-and-forth. It’s worth a shot as the water supply would not be constant inside the fitting because the faucet  handles will be off most of the time and if it develops leak you can replace it with another one  easily.

  EDIT: After poking around on the world wide inter-tubes i found these rotary unions i think they would work great.


Which color temperature for front door exterior lights? Finally running out of incandescent bulbs for our two front door exterior fixtures. I want to use this opportunity to try LED bulbs, as I do not love CFLs and seems like LED prices are getting reasonable.

Question is, what color temperature would be appropriate here? I've Googled around, but most advice I find seems to be focused on landscaping lighting, where a warmer (up to 3000K) temperature seems to be recommended.

I'm not sure that's quite right for the front door. I think I'd want something more cooler, but I'm not sure if I should go for a cool white (3100-4500K) or a daylight (4600-6500K).

Is there a conventional wisdom bulb warmth for this application, much as there is for kitchens & bathrooms (daylight) or living rooms (warm white) or garages (cool white)?

This is a real personal choice.

IMHO
The daylight bulbs give a harsher whiter light similar to a mercury vapor lamp. This gives things more of a stark steril look.

The cool whites are less harsh.

The warm whites will be the closest match to a standard incandescent. So, if you have some incandescents still installed on the outside of your house the warm white would match better.

Or you could buy all three, take them home and try them out and then return the other two you don't like.

Good luck with your project!


What kind of wood is recommended for replacing kitchen cabinet shelving? We have kitchen cabinets with removable plywood shelves.  They are 1/2" thick and 10.25" wide.  The lengths are 19.25" (short) and 31.25" (long).  We want two more short, and one more long one.

They look like a standard size.  Does anyone sell pre-cut shelves like this, or do I have to buy a 2' X 4' X 1/2" sheet of plywood and get it cut?

Googling did not reveal any pre-cut.

EDIT: I am in San Francisco. We went to a local hardware store and they did not have any good equipment. They said they would have to "hand cut" it (circular saw?) because they do not have space for power tools in their stores.  We are going to try Discount Builders Supply.

You did not say where you are located so direct advice is not possible....but:  Here in the USA many of the "big box" stores will happily cut a plywood panel up into the sizes that you require. Just commit yourself to the purchase of the 4' x 8' panel and they can cut you three or four shelves to the sizes you need.

These stores have a special setup called a panel saw that makes cutting up panels a piece of cake. Do stress that you have to have close tolerance on the dimensions of each piece so it comes out proper for you. Sometimes the young folks employed at these stores will think that "within a quarter" of an inch is good enough.

Also note that if you go to the shelf at the store and buy the ready cut 2' x 4' pieces be aware that:

Usually four of the 2x4 pre trimmed panels costs more than a whole
4x8 panel.
You will get 3 shelves out of each 2x4 piece instead of 1 with lots of waste.
The large panel may have a nice sized chunk left over that you can
take home for a future DIY project.
There may be reluctance on their part to cut the small panels for
you.


During what construction era was plaster installed over metal lath? My home dates to the 1890s. It has clearly been through many renovations over the years before I owned it. The walls in my living room have defied all stud finders: normal ones find nothing, magnetic finders read the whole wall as a stud. Tonight I found this when removing a vent cover.
It looks like the wall is plaster over metal mesh. Can anyone give me any idea of when this construction was used? Is there anything special I need to know about? I'm just looking for information.
UPDATE I still haven't found a studfinder that can see through this stuff, but I have found that I can measure 16" intervals from the edge of my heating vents and find studs reliably.

The area I live and work in saw quite a bit of expansion and development in the period between 1920 and 1960.  I see plaster over expanded metal quite a bit in older buildings, and it does present some challenges.
My guess based on what I've seen is that it was used mostly in the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, and more in commercial and multi-family buildings than in residential construction.


Fluorescent Without Fixture I want to achive a very simple look with fluorescent lights. I want to hang a fluorescent tube from the ceiling with as little as possible. Was thinking maybe hanging them just in the cord to each end and put the ballast up in the ceiling.

Is this possible? I guess it could be quite dangerous but can it be done, and how could I do it?

Q:  Is this possible?  How could I do it?

A:  Certainly possible, but there are some obvious issues:

The open circuit voltage for T8 instant start ballasts is up to 600v.
Most ballasts require installation on a metal enclosure for heat dissipation and RF shielding.
Most ballasts require fairly short wire separation distances between the ballast and the lamp (perhaps 6'-- some specialty sign ballasts will go longer distances).
Most T8 fluorescent lamps supplied by an electronic ballast are electrically very noisy.  Moving the lamp away from a grounded metal enclosure makes noise containment worse.  In a residential environment, one might be very unhappy with the RF interference.

Have you considered an LED lookalike for the T8 fluorescent?  There are units available that run directly on 120v line voltage. The initial lamp cost on these is high, but if you are building a custom piece of light fixture art, that may not be an issue.  One example is model 1920WH-L (I am not endorsing this particular unit):