Dishwasher anti-flood alarm I have a AEG pro intensiv favorit. It flooded my kitchen and the water is gone but the alarm doesn't stop. I tried to unplug it and push the buttons for more than 10 seconds. The motor is still sucking, but there is no water left. When I pour in new water, it is sucked away immediately. I don't know the cause of the original flooding and how to reset the machine.

How could I stop the alarm and fix my dishwasher? According to the manual it is clearly the anti-flood protection (three consecutive beeps). The manual doesn't mention how to solve it.

Apparently the solution was not that hard. I found the manual here. The manual perfectly describes my problem on page 14 but unfortunately doesn't provide a solution.

  The end indicator flashes 3 times intermittently.

They forgot to mention the very annoying beep that beeps on the same rhythm as the indicator.

Solution

On other fora I found a suggestion to tilt the whole machine forwards. Mine was built-in so this was rather difficult. Instead I decided to remove the front plate in the bottom. This plate is accessible without removing the machine itself. As expected, there was water underneath the main compartment. I read similar things before and I actually hoped that it would just dry up. However, the water was about 1 cm deep and I removed more than a liter in total. This won't dry up within a week.

Removing the water was not easy but it is doable with a mop/cloth. Pay attention since there are quite a few wires as well. I also accidentally loosened a tube. I didn't know where to attach this, but in the end it was just the overflow tube. It is not supposed to be attached anywhere and is probably the cause of the water in the base.

The 'flood-detector' itself is not a very complicated device. It is similar in design to the float often found in toilets. When there is water in the base, this will lift and activate the alarm and the pump.

Once the water was cleared up and the float was lowered, the alarm was shut of and the machine worked again (I did all this with the machine unplugged so I only noticed afterwards).

For those interested, I've also included a picture of the base. The white thing in the middle is the float. The tube coming in from the top right is the overflow tube. It is attached on the top, but its end is not connected to anything.

I don't know what eventually caused the flood in the first place. Probably something was clogged. This in turn caused the overflow to dump the water in the base. My problems were solved after cleaning the filter and removing the water from the base.


Holes forming under/around garage I've noticed two holes forming in the ground, under and around my garage (so no basement or anything under that location. The house is about 3 years old.

The first is under driveway, just in front of the garage (there's a cavity under the asphalt there, maybe about 6" deep and 6" wide):

The second is immediately under the wall of the garage, on the other side of the (two-car) garage door from the driveway hole (note also the crumbling mortar to the left of the hole):

I have several questions about this:

Are these holes potentially related, or are they far enough apart that they're more likely separate issues?
Should I be concerned about any of these issues, and if it's hard to say from my pictures/descriptions, who would I call to investigate?
What is causing the driveway hole? Can it simply be filled in, or would it require a bigger fix?
What is causing the hole under the wall? Is it just settling or soil washing away? Can I simply fill it with more dirt?
What caused the mortar to crumble? Is that usually the sign of more crumbling, or is it sometimes just an isolated instance?

I would believe your gutter downspout pipes are in that location(s)  if not well sealed or if perf pipe was used without being packed in gravel the dirt gets washed away and creates a hole. I would look for this being the cause as I have seen this when solid pipe was used and cracked later washing the dirt away. Look in the hole if you see a drain you probably have found the reason.


Can I realistically replace my drill with a rotary hammer? I find myself needing to do more and more stucco and concrete chipping work that is suitable for purchasing a rotary hammer. Can anyone here tell me if such tools can entirely replace a normal drill? On paper, it seems like they can; they can do pure drilling, hammer drilling, or non-rotating chipping. I'm an efficiency-minded kind of guy, so if it's possible to replace my drill with a high-quality do-it-all machine, I'd really like to. Off the top of my head, I can imagine two drawbacks to using a rotary hammer for everything:

They are heavier than regular drills.
You need to use an adapter to use regular non-SDS drill bits, further increasing the weight, and there's more slop since the adapter will slide up and down a bit.

Are there more downsides? Is it indeed feasible to use a rotary hammer for everything?

Not really. I did this and regretted it.

The problem is that the rotary hammers that are worth it are very heavy and overbuilt (the larger Bosch SDS series etc.). They make fantastic rotary hammers but are too heavy for use as a drill for extended use unless you have really beefy forearms. In this scenario, you should get a 18v cordless drill for when  you want to drill.

Then there are very lightweight rotary hammers (such as from Harbor Freight) where the rotary hammer action is extremely weak. These do a good job as drills but not as rotary hammers.


How do I attach wires to this socket I have a lamp I want to connect to my wiring, but I can't figure out how the wires should be attached. Below you can see the only page in the instruction manual following the lamp which deals with this, as well as the lamp socket.
Can someone give me a pointer on how to attach the wires please?
My location is Norway, if it matters.

The wires go in here somehow?

I believe that the red arrows are pointing at the tabs that actuate the spring clips in the holes on either side of them.
Depress the spring clips  by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into the opening and press down,  then insert wire into hole, release spring clip and the tension should keep the wires snug.
I believe that there a two holes on each side so you can send another set of wires out to daisy chain  another fixture.


Taping or not unexposed wall joints I have some joints between drywall and drywall and also drywall and cementboard that will not be exposed because they are behind cabinets. Do I still need to tape them together? Does taping provide any structural function or is it just for the looks?

Taping creates a fire barrier if there ever happened to be a fire in your wall a non taped joint could be a problem.


Need help identifying plastic grille I'm trying to figure out what this item (left behind by the previous owner of the house) is. Can anyone help identify it so I can determine whether it should trashed or not?

If the clothes  dryer (possibly Kenmore Elite) was included in the sale it may be the shelf unit that allows you to dry sneakers without them banging.


Replacing three way switches with insteon Replacing 2 three way switches that control a group of recessed lighting with Smart Insteon switches. As background, Insteon switches require a neutral and don't use travellers since there 3 ways connect wirelessly.

Normally the hot(s) get connected to the Insteon black, and the red (load) get's attached to the light in one box and capped in the other box. And both get attached to ground and neutral. With this set of neutrals it seems a bit different since one of the switches already seems to have a white wire attached and the other switch has a screw that is attached to two wires. Tried attaching based on what made the most sense but neither switched powered on.

Can someone help suggest which current wires match up with the news switches, since what worked for the rest of the house doesn't work for these.

This particular situation will involve rewiring the old dead end 3-way.

The white tied to the blacks needs to be rewired as a neutral.  Currently it is wired as a common (hot).  Then one of the travellers needs to be rewired as a permanent hot.  This will allow your dead end Insteon to be powered up.

The black and red that where tied together is the switch leg.  It ties to the red on the Insteon. The rest should fall into place.

Don't forget to turn off the breaker(s).


finish feels like sand is in it I finish off oak piece and finish feels like sand is in it - I used a fine oil brush and made sure the surface was sanded at 600 grit - wipe down with tack rag and still have a sand paper feel- so what gives?

Oak is famous for grain raise when varnished; you need to fine sand between coats.

Also important but under-advertised is the importance of applying coats that are appropriately thick when using water-based poly, too thin and the raised grain pokes right through.


Doing drywall panels on ceiling share joists at edges? Installing 4x8 panels and I am staggering them perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
My joists are 16" o.c. and I'm wondering is when the panels butt, will the be sharing the center of a joist or will the ends be floating? It looks like a single panel will sit flush with the edge of the joist, therefore the butt joint immediately following that panel will be "floating".
Is that typical and then that joint is just taped and mudded? Or for those cases do I need to install braces between the joists for additional screwing?

The edges of drywall must share the stud/joist. If they float, they'll sag, no matter how much tape and mud you put on them. Especially on ceilings where gravity will be the enemy.
If you're having serious issues getting the screws into the edges of the sheets on only 1/2 the joist width, you could add a 2x4 nailer to pick up the edge of the next sheet, but that's a last resort.


Is there a standard way to block sunlight from a non-rectangular window? I'm not a DIY home repair guy but I'm handy with tools.  I have a semi-circular window about six feet in diameter.  It's right above my home office desk.  In the afternoon, the sun often shines through the window and makes a terrific glare on the desk and makes the computer monitors hard to see (due to the high contrast).

My question: Is there a standard way to block sunlight from a non-rectangular window?   The desk looks out the window and I'd like to keep it that way. The problem is for a few hours in the afternoon.  Ideally the shade would be somewhat translucent to block the sun.

This must be a commonly-seen problem.  Any suggestions on where to buy a solution which I can install myself?

they make accordion style fabric shades for half-circle windows

http://www.amazon.com/Redi-Shade-3362548-Window-72-Inch/dp/B000LG7G0A


Acceptable joist depth for a second set of ceiling-only joists Background

I'm installing a new ceiling in the kitchen of the bottom unit of a multi-family home.  The house is quite old and uses 2x8 (actually 2"x7.5", not 1.5"x7.5", due to era of lumber) over a 12 foot span, which experience more deflection than is ideal but is certainly acceptable.  This does create more transfer of impact noise (foot steps, dropping things, etc).  I have isolation clips for the ceiling furring (http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isomax.html) but, now that we're not installing recessed lighting, I'm considering adding a second, separate set of joists to hang the ceiling from.

Problem

What is the minimum joist depth and maximum spacing needed for new joists that support only a ceiling (since there are separate existing joists carrying the load of the floor)?

My calculations for two layers of 5/8" drywall/blueboard and some mass-loaded vinyl come to just over 5 lbs/sqft.  There will be additional weight in veneer plaster and a trivial amount in light fixtures.  All span calculators I can find accept a minimum of 10 lbs/sqft of live load and an additional 10 lbs/sqft of dead load.  This situation seems to me to be around 6-7 lbs/sqft of dead load and essentially no live load over a 12 ft span.  Trying to figure out if I can get away with 2x4s or need 2x6s or can cut 2x6s down to 2x5s, etc and whether I can space them every 24" or need to stick with 16".  Not so much a matter of cost as of space for other sound proofing materials and considerations.  Deflection concern in this case is to avoid veneer plaster cracking.

To clarify, this image is roughly what I'm planning for, where the red joists are to be added and whose dimensions I'm trying to determine.

You’re dealing with “impact sound control “ not “airborne sound control “.  Stacking 2 layers of 5/8” gypsum board on “hat channels “ is not the best way to control impact sound.
First
We control impact sound (walking in high heels, dropping objects, etc.) at the source by using

soft materials to walk on, (carpet, cushioned vinyl flooring, etc.), and
isolate the underlayment from the subfloor and joists with sound absorbing fiber board. If you don’t have access to the floor above your unit, then adding sound control below is difficult...but not impossible.

Second
Isolating your ceiling from the floor above is correct, but using Resilient Channels, not hat channels. The transfer of impact noises down to your space needs to be isolated....that’s why adding ceiling material to the bottom of the floor joists does not work AND WHY using hat channels does not work as well as Resilient Channels.
Yes, the new ceiling joists (isolated from the floor joist above) helps isolate the ceiling from the floor above, but impact noises travels through the framing. Hat channels do not isolate the impact noise.

By the way, your loading seems a little light:

two layers of 5/8” gypsum board is 6.25 psf,
hat channels is about .5 psf,
new 2x6 joists at 16” oc is 1.5 psf,

PLUS, I would add:

rock wool insulation at 4” at 2 psf,
1/2” fiber sound board at 2 psf and misc. (lights, etc.) at 1 psf...

for a total dead load of 13.25 psf. (Even the crappiest grade of 2x6 at 16” oc will support that for 12’)
I’d recommend:

isolating the ceiling joists from the wall by installing sound board between the new ceiling joists and the wall,
installing 4” of rock wool in the existing floor joists, in the stud spaces and on top of the new ceiling,
don’t install your light in the ceiling (cutting s hole for a wire allows sound into your space,
install 1/2” sound deadening board on top of your new ceiling joists (if possible,
install 5/8” gypsum board on RC -1 channels on gypsum board on RC-1 channels on the 2x6 ceiling joists,
caulk the perimeter with sound control caulk...leave the 1/4” spacing at the wall as per your insert you referenced.

Yes, two layers of gypsum board is better than one, and separating the layers with RC channels is best.


Can I install used carpet that's been removed from another home? My carpet is about 25 years old now and it's time to go.  I know some people rip carpet out of new homes because they're laying down hardwood.  Any issues I should be aware of? (I like the idea of recycling instead of buying new)  Thanks!

Technically, yes you can, but in reality the results might not be great:

Carpet is measured and cut to fit a house's floorplan: individual pieces are cut from a carpet roll to fit around the tricky bits in your house (door openings, inside closets, etc.) and then taped and ironed together on site. Unless you have the exact same floorplan, you're going to have some scrap, meaning it will have to come from a bigger house so that you have enough to fit yours1.
Removing carpet without damaging it can be tricky. Think about your house's floorplan, and how you'd roll up a single piece of carpet to get it out your front door. Finding the seams between pieces is difficult because the original installers are trained to join separate pieces invisibly.
Carpet has a grain, so pieces cut lengthwise from a roll will look funny next to pieces cut crosswise.
The carpet gets a different amount of wear and tear in different parts of the house; if you have to join pieces from different rooms in the original house, they may not have worn the same. This may not be an issue if the house you're taking it from is new.
Cutting carpet is somewhat demanding. Installing carpet, even with a power kicker, is a job for the young and indestructible.
Carpet can pick up surprising amounts of dirt; be sure to have it thoroughly cleaned before installation, especially if the original owners have pets.

1. I helped someone do exactly this several years ago; the carpet and pad came from an approx. 2000 sq.ft. house and he installed it in his 1000 sq.ft. basement. The house it came from was very open-plan, with large living and family rooms and three good sized bedrooms. After cutting pieces down to size to fit his basement rooms (1 large bedroom, 1 small bedroom and a living room), he didn't have a whole lot of carpet left over.


How to open this fluorescent light fixture? I’m stumped. There this fluorescent light fixture in a closet of mine that seems to have burned out or stopped working. I wanted to open it up to change the bulb but I can’t figure out how it opens.

I’ve tried pulling, sliding, gentle prying. It’s on there rock solid. There is a ridged (like a potato chip) plastic covering that seems like it could somehow be removed but I can’t figure it out.

I can’t find any identifying markings, no serial number, no manufacturer, so it’s impossible for me to google what the hell this is.

On the fixtures like this I have repaired the bezel comes out. Pressing on the bezel down flex in then pull out , did that make sense ?
There are normally 2 clips evenly spaced from the end, normally on the short side of the bezel or plastic lamp cover a light pressure to flex the plastic towards the fixture push like you are putting it on (not all need this but some won’t release with the removal of tension) then while still pressing pull out.  I hope I explained it better. These fixtures are very common most often in a 24” model but I have seen 48” ones. The lamp is normally a standard T8 or t12 bulb I would guess at A T8 and they do go bad.

If you go to a big box store they will probably have one as these are common but today they may have an led lamp. Ask to look at it and to look at the bulb or what type of bulb you need to purchase.


How do I remove carpet tape from a painted wall? How to remove carpet tape from painted wall without damaging the paint?

This article suggests using warm cooking oil, but I am afraid the oil will irreversibly damage the paint.

Should I try some adhesive remover or is there an easier way?

EDIT:
The wall paint is regular water based color.

An iron and a very sharp wallpaper removal knife.  Heat the carpet tape, zap it with some steam... do that twice in about 3-4 mins.  Wait another 3-4 mins to let the moisture soak in - longer if tape is thick.  Heat it again, zap it with steam again...

Then you need to hit it with the blade.  I have taken down 15-20 types of wallpaper and carpet tape in my own house (yes that many and no I wouldn't do it for $$).  Most will work doing it this way.  Sometimes adding vinegar (inside the iron) will help.  The key is the blade work.  Push your blade flat and fast.  If you have to dig in on the tape - then the tape hasn't absorbed the moisture to come off or maybe it embedded into the paint (soft latex).

Heat, moisture, vinegar, sharp blade - I feel confident that it will solve 90-99% of tape/wallpaper issues.  Now the key is how many times you have to hit it with the heat, moisture, vinegar...  If you have a small area then just take your time.

If you are like me start off really slow with the first wall looking perfect, then a couple hours later... start to chip the paint and drywall off because you are hurrying everything, cuss, smack the wall and repair the next day.


Ceiling and roof sagging in ranch house The house is constructed with 2x4 trusses, 24 inch on center. The trusses span an open area 27 ft long with no support in between so the ceiling is sagged in the middle and the roof ridge is sagged as well.

I jacked up the ceiling to where it should be and installed (2) 2x10’s on each side of the center truss supports in the attic. However, after removing jacks the ceiling came back down almost to where it was previously.

The 2x10’s are approx. 18 ft long with end support only since I don’t want to have a post in the middle of my living room.

My question is:

Will adding more 2x10’s to the 4 existing help and if so how many in total would be required ? Or is there a better solution ? Thank you

Will adding more 2x10’s to the 4 existing help and if so how many in total would be required ?

This is very common for older stick framed homes that were not engineered and the code very minimal. The reason is obvious, it is not constructed strong enough

What you did with the 2x10's is called 'sistering' or 'sistered.' The way that you did it does not add strength to the roof structure as a whole, as you have learned.

  Or is there a better solution?

Answered directly and simply

Yes

Answered more fully aka 'How' or 'What' is a better solution

It's complicated. It depends on the particulars of your roof framing, the wall layout of your home, and other issues. It involves not just the old framing member sizes, locations, wood species etc, it also includes the connections of the members and other things like constructability issues (how to get members into place at minimal cost)

Generally this is a project for a structural engineer. I'm guessing that you may note like that idea, for reasons. But there is no answers to be found here, from friends, and probably not from contractors, it's simply too complicated an issue.

There is ONE option that might be plausible for your situation: you can make the ridge into a post and beam system. This reduces the rafter spans in half. You'd need a beam of course, and posts, and footings (the existing foundation also surely not able to take these new point loads)


What is the best kind of grass/seed for a completely shaded lawn? After our home was built this winter, we had a new lawn seeded in the spring and it came in nicely almost everywhere except one area in the back that is in the shade all day long (there are woods on one side and the house on the other).

I plan to add additional seed to that area of the lawn but want to choose a type of grass that will do ok with almost no direct sunlight if there is such a thing.

What do you suggest?

Edit: I live near Madison, Wisconsin.

It would help if you said where you are. However, if you're in the southern US, Saint Augustine would be a good choice. If you're in a cooler climate some types of Fescue might work for you. Another thing to consider would be a ground cover - perhaps Jasmine.


fixing stripped screw in soft-wood door frame? Possible Duplicate:
  How do I rehang a wooden door with worn screw holes?

As you can see in the below image, the upper screw holding in the lock plate (name?) has stripped completely out of the crappy soft wood frame. The plate is loose, and the door catches on it further damaging the plate and the door.

I cannot relocate the plate, as that's well beyond my abilities as a DIY guy. What's the best way to secure the screw in the hole? Epoxy? Is simple hot glue good enough? I don't need to ever get it back out again... I just want it in tight so that plate doesn't catch on things and the door can be closed without worry...

Thank you!

Remove the plate and drill out the hole and fill it with glue and a dowel.  I've used a 3/8" oak dowel in the past for this. Use a good wood glue and after it dries, shave it down with a wood chisel.  Use touch-up paint if needed.

Make sure you allow the glue to dry as directions say and pre-drill into the dowel.  The screw should fit tight then.


Drilling a vertical hole in fence post I have an old fence with round metal post that are concreted in and in good condition but I want to replace them with timber posts. To avoid digging everything up I would like to cut the metal post down to about 150mm and drill out the post to slide over it and bolt through.

My question is, if I need to drill 50mm hole 150mm vertically into the middle of the post is a 100x100mm post big enough to still maintain enough strength? - I can go 150x150mm it just might look a too over sized for the area the fence is in.

(Sorry I'm not Metric, we use 2x material)
Dado out a wooden Post for the pole, then add a 2x to the side you dadoed out to cover it and screw it to the dadoed post and bolt the whole thing together

Depending on the Diameter of the post, you can also wrap it in 2x. We have also done 2x6 Left to right (So you see the 2x6 face on the fence, I like 4x6 Fence Posts.  Then between them, also flush against the post, cut a 2x to fit between the 2x6 and bolt though the side 2x4s.

Sizing might be off, but I think you can get what I'm describing?
We use Carriage bolts on the side you see and counter sink the nuts.


Bathroom lights went out, but breaker isn't tripped I just bought a house built in the late 90's. While upgrading some lights in the bathroom, I replaced a recessed can light with an LED version that uses an adapter for the bulb socket and simply fits over the can. The only wiring involved is a ground wire.

After getting the new light setup, I tested it and it worked just fine, including when I had the ground wire hooked to the can. As I was pushing the cover onto the can, all the bathroom lights went out. This included the shower & toilet cubby next to it. I also found that the other 1.5 bathrooms also didn't have working lights anymore.

Fortunately the wall sockets still worked.

I find this strange, but evidently code allows bathroom lights to be all on the same circuit as long as the outlets are on a different circuit. I think I still want to separate them out, but that's a different topic for later, I think.

I went to the breaker panel and tripped what I thought was the correct breakers, but I still didn't have lights. Then I flipped all the breakers to make sure I got the right one and still nothing. I ended up getting out my multimeter and taking the front panel off the box, then checking that the breakers were working correctly. They were, but still no lights.

I've searched the whole house multiple times and there isn't any subpanel or anything else I can find with breakers in it, except for the dedicated breaker for the AC unit outside.

I'm going to self-answer, since I finally figured it out accidentally. I'm writing this up so that other people might benefit from my weird solution.

The first part of the problem is that yes, your lights are downstream of a GFCI. Which is not usually required. It may be that someone was in the mode of "I better put GFCI wherever I can and protect everything in the bathrooms, including the light", or it could be that there is another receptacle (bathroom, garage, outside, kitchen) on the same circuit that actually needs GFCI protection.

The second part is right there in your question:

  As I was pushing the cover onto the can, all the bathroom lights went out.

You mentioned a ground wire, so this sounds like more than just a simple screw in bulb replacement. But whether that new ground wire was involved or not, it sounds like you pinched or shorted a wire when putting the cover on the can. That could easily cause a ground fault and trip the GFCI. Then you took things out, double-checked everything, etc. and when you put it all back together, everything was OK. Except that you had to find the GFCI and reset. Once you did that, all the lights worked.


Does portable band saw have fixed blade width to go with them? I've looked around blades for those ordinary stationary band saws and for the band saw I checked out that takes blades of length 59 1/2" (I won't say the exact product, as I don't want to sound as if I'm promoting it), it's specified that the blade width can go from 1/4" to 3/8".

Looking at other blades of length 59 1/2" from different brands, I've seen one that is even 1/8" in width. Though I don't know if the the stationary band saw mentioned can handle it.

I've ordered a portable band saw (again, I won't say the exact product) that takes blades of length 44-7/8". The manual of the portable band saw I ordered specifies 1/2" width of blade, with variation only TPI, but no other choice for thickness or width.

I've looked at other brands of length 44-7/8". At this point, it seems that blades of length 44-7/8" are meant for a number of portable band saws from different brands. I've checked these 44-7/8" blades from different brands and it seems that it only width it comes in is 1/2".

So is that the rule of thumb that portable band saws blades only come in fixed widths, as they are only meant for cutting straight through?

Bandsaws are used for a variety of things, including making straight and curved cuts.  The width of the blade is a large factor in how sharp of a turn you can make while cutting.

Portable bandsaws really are only meant to cut straight through something.  Think of them as a saws-all for really thick stuff.  Normally, a saws-all is just for hacking something apart quickly, not for anything intricate.  I've used them for some detailed stuff, but that's not what they are really designed for.

Blade width helps determine how strong the blade is.  The wider the blade, the less deflection there would be for a stronger push against the blade and hopefully would absorb the force better.

Seeing as this is a portable saw, I would think the standard thought of the designers is "straight cuts as fast as possible."  I've seen people lean on these saws in an attempt to get them to cut faster.  This usually just leads to a slow down for a blade replacement.

I would also assume that part of the reason for the blade strength is that the designers expect the whole weight of the saw to be on the blade.  Even horizontal bandsaws have a spring or weight for counterbalance.  A normal portable bandsaw user, even an experienced one, is not going to hold the bandsaw up during use, but rather just set it on the object needing cut.  No matter how good you are, you aren't likely going to be able to hold it at the "perfect" cutting pressure for the full length of the cut.  Nor are you going to be holding the blade perfectly inline with the cut, either.

These blades are going to be abused, no matter how gently you think you are using it, so having a wider blade is a natural "go to" for a stronger blade.

If you need a narrower blade, there are places where you can get a blade made for you.  If you are going to need a Lot of these blades, you might think about making them yourself.  I've seen blades sold on a reel, so you can cut and weld them to the length you need.  This is dangerous, so it'd have to be something you really need to do.  That is, if you even really care about narrower blades.


How do I size this wall to make tiles look right? I am expanding my entryway by building a new half-wall, and then I will be tiling (which I have never done before). What I'm looking for is some advice on the best way to size the wall so that the tiles look right.

Here are a couple views:

(In case it's unreadable, the width of the closet is 48.5", and the distance between closet and front door is 76").

The entry to this space should be minimum 32" and max 36".

I'd like the wall to be minimum 76", and 92" (which is half-way on the wall beside the closet)

What size should I make these two dimensions, so that the tile will work out the best way?

I am open to suggestions on what tile size to use as well. The bit I don't know is if you have a 12"x12" tile, how do you figure out how much room they'll actually take up once they're down? (is a 12" tile really 12" or is it slightly smaller to allow room for grout?)

UPDATE:

So part way though this project, our casual browsing for a new house ended up with us making an offer and me having 2 days to finish this so we could put our house up for sale. I ended up going with Allure vinyl plank tiles simply for speed of install (I was done in about 2 hours).

I put the framed wall 84.5" (7' 1/2") away (in the direction parallel with the door) to leave space for 7 tiles + 1/2" drywall, and it's about 78" long (in the direction perpendicular to the door) based mostly on aesthetics and making an unobtrusive transition. I positioned the tile so the center of the center tile in the perpendicular direction was centered with the wall, and there's an approximately equal amount of partial tile along both edges up to the new entry, and I didn't worry about what happened inside the closet (it happened to work out to only require less than 1/2" cut from the tile).

Here's the final product (sorry, it's from the MLS listing and not the greatest resolution):

(Side note: We ended up having two offers on this house and had the sale finalized in less than 48 hours after listing, so I guess this turned out okay)

It sounds like your goal is to avoid cutting any tiles in the dimension from the 48.5" + Entry (from your pictures).  12X12 tiles won't necessarily be 12".  I grabbed an extra that I had in the garage and it is actually 11.75" but is sold as a 12" tile.

As mentioned in the comments, I'd buy the tiles that you like first.  You could actually buy all the tiles you are going to need and lay them out in that area with the grout spacers (little plastic spacers that keep all the tiles evenly spaced).  Then you could pencil in your wall at exactly the location you'd need to keep from cutting tiles (in that dimension at least... you can't do much about the space between your front door and closet door).

Note that the tile shouldn't butt right against the wall.  Your floor/molding trim will cover the small gap between the tiles and the wall.

Hope that helps.  Good luck!  Tiling is actually not that bad and can be fun.


Door open lightswitch for sliding closet doors My closets are the kind with door doors, either of which slides to the side, overlapping the other. I'd like to have the light inside the closet come on when either of the doors is opened. This is for new construction - how do I wire this up?

From a functional point of view, you want the two switches in parallel, normally-closed but held open when the door is in its closed position, so that if either door is open the switch closes and the light comes on. The switches may control the light directly or, if they are low-voltage switches, may control a relay which controls the light. (If you're using a relay, you can also potentially substitute a pair of normally-open switches in series; just use the inverted relay output.)

Mechanically... The switches I'd normally think of for this purpose either wouldn't be reliable or wouldn't be pretty. The best thought I've got is a low-voltage circuit, using alarm-style reed switches. These would involve switches mounted on the door frame with magnets mounted on the door edge nearest the frame. When the magnet is close enough, it pulls the reed in the switch out of its "normal" position. The advantage of these is that the magnets will tolerate a bit of gap rather than having to come directly in contact with the switches; how much gap depends on exactly which switch/magnet set you buy.

I could make it work... initially. Keeping it working, given how notorious these doors are for going out of alignment and slipping off their tracks, might be another matter.


Electrical circuit question All of the home wiring diagrams that I have seen online show outlets wired in a sequential chain. Is there a problem with having outlets on spurs originating in a junction box, as shown in the attached diagram? Looking at my house wiring in the basement, I notice that some of the living rooms sockets and all of the bedroom sockets are on spurs originating in a junction box.

As long as the junction box is not over filled (as per code), the connection device (Wire-Nut®) is properly sized for all the wires, and the junction box remains accessible. There's no problem wiring the circuit in such a way.


Corner bead cement covering Recently I've renovated a bathroom in my house. I re-tiled the shower and there was extra cement on the wall after the bullnose was put in.

I wanted to cover the cement so I could just paint the wall up to the bullnose so it looks clean. I tried caulking it thinking that would work. It ended up looking like it melted when it was drying so I'm in the process of removing the half dried caulk.

Is there a better/easier way to cover this cement? It's about a half inch wide.

You just need to sand it down. Tile mortar is fairly soft and a common sanding block should do. Be careful not to scratch your tile (mask it if you like). Skim it with drywall joint compound if that doesn't yield satisfactory results, then sand it again.

Next time, either be more careful troweling the mortar or apply masking tape to the wall first. You don't have to have mortar right to the very edge of the bullnose. In fact, you're better off leaving it back slightly so you can grout against the wall and have a clean look without mortar showing through.


Are there safety concerns or code violations with my garage sub-panel? I recently bought a home and the garage has this sub panel that looks questionable to me. The garage has a circuit for 240v, and two other circuits that consists of two 120v wall outlets, and two 120v switched outlets. I do not know when this was all installed.
I do see that all the circuits run off a single 2 pole 40 amp breaker. The neutral and grounds are bonded as well in this panel. All the Romex in the garage is 12/2. The main panel is outside the home and the breaker for the garage is 40 amp.
I am a novice with home electrical but not a complete idiot and trying to learn. I dont plan on messing with any of this myself, just want to know how horrible this actually is.

EDIT
I have added below requested pics of the panel label. This is also a detached garage, ~20' away from the main panel on back of the house.
I really appreciate all the comments and suggestions and have learned alot just from this.
I suppose then my end goal is a subpanel upgrade, keep my current outlets but on two separate breakers (?) May just get rid of the existing 240v circuit and have a three foot 6 or 8/2 run to a 50amp breaker for the welder (?) Since the feed from the main panel is #8, I suppose Ill have to upgrade that moving forward? It is run overhead.
Trying to get a grasp on what I want/need before I call somebody to come out.

It is bad, more than a few violations here if I understand what is being fed.
First violation no clamps /bushings coming into the panel 2 places.
Next a 40 amp breaker feeding #12 possibly 14 awg wire 4 places
4 ground wires under 1 lug (I believe square D limits grounds to 2 wires)
The neutral and ground issue would have been legal prior to 1999
If the garage is detached a separate additional grounding conductor would be required.
I would highly recommend this getting fixed sooner than later and the ground neutral issue is the least of the issues because if the other things were not a problem and built pre99 it would be ok.
Note if you can turn off a breaker inside the house
It would be an easy fix with a 60a sub panel with a minimum of 4 circuits (go bigger) 60 amp panel 4 circuits 36$  or jump up to a 125 amp panel 12 circuits for 40$  (4 $ more double the capability and triple the circuits)
You use the existing 40 amp breaker in the house.
Purchase the new sub
Purchase 1 240v breaker 20 amp? Guessing on the wire size
Purchase 2 120v breakers 15 or 20 amp 12 awg wire 20 amp , 14 awg wire 15 amp the wire size is stamped on the cable sheath.
4 clamps
The clamps go in the knockouts the 3 circuits out each go through a clamp 1/2”
The input through a larger clamp 3/4”
Terminate the 2 hots neutral and grounds and do not install the bond screw or remove it so the ground and neutrals will be isolated.
Connect the existing 240v circuit black white on the double pole breaker and ground.
Connect each of the 120v blacks to there breaker
Then the grounds on the ground buss neutrals on the isolated neutral buss
If it is a detached garage a separate ground rod needs to be added use a 8’ rod or pair of rods at least 6’ apart connected with #6 copper wire.
That’s it turn things on and know you eliminated a major fire and safety hazard and have a little room to grow before a larger feeder would be needed.
This can be done with the existing wires a larger box should make it easy but a wire or 2 may be short. Make sure the feeder fits first. Then add small wires and splice in the panel as needed it’s code compliant.


How can I store Latex paint for the long term - a decade or longer? So I have a bunch of partially used latex paint in 1 gallon and 5 gallon buckets. How could one store and keep the paint viable for years to come? Could I just vigorously shake the buckets once a year or so?

For now I store the paint in my basement.

I put paint I glass jars and stored it for 10 years it mixed right up.


How to wire modern telephone extension? A telephone extension cable has been pulled from its socket. How do you rewire such a socket?

We're having to make assumptions here that this is house wiring for an single analog phone circuit (POTS) as no specifics other than "it's a phone extension" are given.

This is a four wire cable with a green/red and white/brown circuit. POTS requires a pair of wires. Your house could be wired having up to two separate phone lines if this is the only wire used. Typically older houses are wired with four wire cables, newer houses with CAT4 or 5 have four pairs (8 wires) available for phone circuits.

If it's a single line phone circuit, the green/red wires should be the only ones that need to be hooked up. What's the difficulty with connecting them back up observing the color coding? This is assuming that the socket is using screw connectors, the straight on angle doesn't allow the connection method to be seen.


water drained from one kitchen sink gushes out over another I have a two-sink combo in the kitchen and it looks like this (sorry for the somewhat gross appearance :-):

sometime when i wash dishes by hands, the food residues slow down the water flowing down the drain and as a result a pool is created on the left. Somehow, some water seems to find another way out to the sink on the right and emerge there.

It's not bad so far,'cause eventually the water went away down the drain. However before it did, if I decide to expedite the flow and turn on the garbage disposal which was installed underneath the left sink, water gushes out on the right like a fountain of dirty water, ruining everything in the vicinity.

The garbage disposal looks like the picture below, the vertical white pipe is connected to the sink on the right:

The disposal was also connected via a pipe to the dish washer on the left. When I used dish washer, some water also emerged on the left sink.

I bought the disposal (badger 5, I believe) and installed it myself 'cause the propeller of the old one stopped working. I thought I followed the instructions preciously and did a good job and it did seem to work. Now my wife suspected that I didn't install it the right way, I protested the idea as if it were my political legacy, somehow I can't rule out that possibility.

Anyway I am wondering if anyone can help me out explaining what might have gone wrong, as the whole thing doesn't seem normal.

I brought in a plumber today and it turned out that it's not the disposal but the pipe  got clogged. He used a drain cleaner to clean the pipe so no more standing water thus no water coming out from another hole.


What is the buzzing noise I hear for about 30 seconds before my furnace blower starts? There's a buzzing sound for about 30 seconds prior to the blower starting. Everything seems to be working normally, but I don't recall hearing this sound before.

Here's a video, the blower starts normally at about 20 seconds.

Buzzing

A possibility is that this sound is a noisy flue inducer motor rather than the main blower motor. This is just suggestion for you to investigate. If the sound starts right after the thermostat calls for heat and before the burner turns on, then I think this is it. The main blower does not get called until a while after the main burner comes on and heats up the heat exchanger.

Maybe the flue inducer fan motor has its bearings worn, or maybe service of the inducer is required. Apparently this inducer makes a draft through the flue until the main burner turns on. It may be that then the inducer motor is depowered when the burner comes on. If so, the heated combustion gases in the flue are sufficient to pull air through. Or it may be that the inducer motor stays on but the hot exhaust gases put a smaller load on the fan and so the bearings are quieter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4Lzxk6-of0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sNUAsIFW3g

Google this e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYn6VWV0HNY


What should I do if wire gauge is too large to fit into a screw terminal? First time poster here. I am working on a robot controller that requires mains power. I was provided 10AWG wire (the unit recommends 14-10AWG, and this is National Electric Code FTR).

I took out the screw on the lines terminal and wrapped the copper wire around it, but no matter how I align it (particularly if i want a good solid safe contact), it begins to fray and although it stays put (and i powered it on just to make sure the controller was working), I am not comfortable having it frayed.

Any recommendations on what I could do? Should I just request a lower gauge wire, or one of my colleagues recommended a screwdown clamp, although space is an issue since it's inside the controller box.

Suggestions?

If you are using #10 stranded under a screw using a crimp terminal will be the easiest and safest connection.

For that size and application you'd want to use a yellow fork terminal.

Here is a good tutorial: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-crimp-an-electrical-connector


Are there any dangers to sistering a joist with oversize lumber? I've done some research lately on joist sistering as a solution to bouncy floors.  The logic seems to revolve around the following principles.

The stress of carrying a load is at the center of the span
Taller is better than wider for a joist, i.e. a 2 by 12 will be a better joist than a double two by six.
For joist sistering the sister can be less wide than the original joist, but it should always sister over the middle of the span.

Most of what I've read involves glueing and nailing an identical piece of lumber to the original framing member, i.e. sistering a two by eight onto the original two by eight.

One thing that occurred to me though: if it doesn't have to span the original distance, and the load is at the center of the span, then why not use a large piece of lumber for greater stability?  If I sistered a 2 by 12 onto the original 2 by 8, wouldn't that be stronger than sistering with a 2 by 8?

I'm sure there is some logical problem that I'm not seeing.  Are there any hidden dangers to the idea of sistering with an oversized piece of lumber?

The reason that joists are sistered using the same height of wood is simply space; generally there's no extra room. If you've got nothing below and there's space then there's no reason you can't use a taller piece of wood. Things to keep in mind:

Spanning as much distance as you can so you transfer the load as evenly across the original joist. If it's too short it's going to still bow, just in a different spot, and you'll add additional stress on the existing joist.
Don't weaken the original joist by drilling holes or cutting
You'll need to raise the joist into the correct position before you glue and nail, otherwise you'll just solidify it in a sagged position!
Prepare the surface of the old joist properly for gluing if you want it to take


Should I run my condensate pump after pouring bleach water into it for cleaning? After I add the 50-50 mix of bleach water to the condensate pump to clear out the algae, do I add water to the pump? On top of the condensate pump it says "do not run dry" so I was wondering do I need to add water after I run the 50-50 mix?

The condensate pump should have a float switch in it so that it automatically comes on when there is water in it, and turns off when it's empty.

It is also possible to run the pump by pressing the test button (if it has one) or shorting the terminals on the float switch (if exposed) or in numerous other manners. Normally, you would not do this. However, if you do for whatever reason, then it is in these circumstances that you do not want to run the pump dry.

In your case, I would let the chlorinated water sit for up to 30 minutes, then pour in as much water as needed to completely flush the chlorine out of the well, pump and discharge line. Otherwise, if the pump has rubber seals the chlorine may damage them.


How do I add a door to an already existing wall? I'm trying to figure out how to do this the right way. I'm planning to put a door in an already existing wall down stairs. I have a few questions about the details:

Do I need a header if it is not a loadbearing wall or not?
The dimensions of the door are 80"x28". Do I have to add inches to the opening that I cut?

Add 2 inches to the door width to get your RO (rough opening) width. Add 2 inches to your height, to allow for a gap at the floor. (You probably won't need all of it, but sometimes level on the floor doesn't cooperate.)

If you absolutely know that the wall isn't load-bearing, then technically, you don't need a header. However, it's not hard to build a simple header, so I'd suggest you do it.

If your wall is load-bearing, you'll want support while you've cut stuff away.

Other random tips:
Try really hard to get your hinge side studs perfect. If it's right, you can easily screw the hinge side of the jamb directly to the stud.
Cut an entire sheet of drywall away on each side, so you have lots of room to work on the framing. This also means that the new sheet you put in will have no seams around the door, which will help with cracking.


Living near a highway in SoCal with no standard windows - how to install A/C? I have an air purifier and keeping all windows/doors closed is going to be a must.  But the humidity and temperature are issues now.  I can get a dehumidifier but then I'm left with the temperature problem - I like a cool 68F.  It seems like my options are:

Portable A/C with some kind of tube - I haven't seen any on Amazon that have good reviews though.  I also don't know where I would go about installing the exhaust tube.
In-window AC - I'd be fine with this if it fit a standard outlet however none of my windows seem compatible with this setup (see below for photos).
Evaporative cooler - this seems nice in theory but I'm in SoCal where humidity can be an issue.  I also haven't seen any with promising consumer reviews.
Ductless - I like this but... $$$

Am I missing any options?  How would you go about keeping your air crisp, clean, and cool in my situation?

Pics of my windows:

BATHROOM - one little window, sliding:

KITCHEN - two windows, sliding:

BEDROOM - one window, sliding:

And then I have a sliding door in my living room.

I consider myself to be handy-capable - enough so to remove windows and such.  I just repainted my place, replaced all outlets/switches, installed a fan etc so I'm comfortable making modifications as needed but I'd like to keep costs (time, money) as low as possible.

As mentioned in another answer, casement window air conditioners are available.

The portable units work okay.  Obviously they eat some floor space.  You may have to empty the condensate that collects.  You have to run a dryer type hose to exhaust hot air.  The units usually come with a mounting bracket that go in a window, but somehow these are always useless plastic junk.  However it's very easy to make a plywood window bracket for the hose.  It's not that hard to install a permanent dryer vent if you'll use the same unit in the same window every year.

You can buy air conditioners that are made to install in a permanent wall penetration, search for "through-wall air conditioner" - they usually have a sheet metal box that stays in place year round.  There is obviously some carpentry involved but it's not too difficult.  If you can place them below a window, usually you don't have to install a header over the opening.  If you don't want to DIY it, it's not something for a handyman, but an easy job for a carpenter.

I think the ductless will be your best option - they are a lot more money, but popular for good reasons and although definitely advanced DIY, DIY-able.

Flexible options for location of indoor units
Efficient electric heat for moderate climates
Quiet
No annual installation / removal
No cords
No compromise of security (break ins)
No drafts around window units
Adds value to home


What kind of valve is this and how do I disconnect it? So, I have a leaky faucet. I am in the process of disconnecting everything so that I can take the faucet out and inspect what's going on with the leaky faucet. However, when disconnecting the faucet, I encountered a t-valve that I don't recognize (picture below) and am not entirely sure how to disconnect the hose without damaging it. This is connected to the hot water, and to the dishwasher. I have disconnected the cold water without issue.

Both of these hoses run all the way into the faucet, there is no other section to disconnect them from.

My primary inclination would be to just yank, but I don't want to attempt that without first figuring out if it's a bad idea, or if I shouldn't be worrying about it since I might wind up having to replace all of the hoses anyhow.

Any ideas?

Mystery Valve

I have had good luck getting these fittings to release with an open end wrench. Slide a wrench the same size as the outside diameter of the tubing over the tubing. Then use it to push in the release collar. It works well in tight areas or where the fittings are close together. If you have to replace any tubing a clean cut is required to get a good seal.


Do I need a vapor barrier on tub surround with 1 external wall? I know variations of this question have been asked dozens times and it seems like there is no real consensus. Each post or website I look at seems to advocate something different. I understand that some of this is because of different scenarios in regards to the build, products, locations, etc.

I'm getting ready to re-tile a small bathroom and here are the particulars:

It has a common bathtub and I'm planning on re-tiling just the bathtub surround. 1 of those walls is an external wall (with a window). The remainder of the bathroom I plan on painting.

The tile will be glazed ceramic/porcelain.
I will probably use hardie-backer as the cement backerboard (Lowes is the closest big box store, so I'll be making my common supply runs there and they stock this and the reviews are all pretty solid on it.)
Location is central Indiana (Indianapolis)

I have not begun the demolition yet, so I'm not positive on what the insulation situation is on that external wall. I know some types of insulation have a vapor barrier on one side, and I know that can/should impact the decision here. I may also replace the insulation if need be, to ensure a good quality job here (also in case of any water damage or mold found obviously).

So, do I need to put a vapor barrier on all 3 sides of the tub surround in this scenario? If the insulation already has one, should I only put a vapor barrier on the other 2 walls of the surround (the non external ones)? If I put my own insulation in, should I opt for some without a vapor barrier side and just add a full vapor barrier to all 3 sides instead?

You need more than a vapor barrier...you need waterproofing. Tile and grout and hardi-backer aren't in and of themselves waterproof.

The easiest way to do this is to use Redgard. You put up the backer board, tape and mud the seams, then you paint the Redgard on. This creates a completely waterproof rubberized waterproofing layer behind your mortar/grout and tile.


How would I create a curved floating desk and shelving unit? I want to create a modern desk that also works as a shelving unit such as the one below:

The idea is that I will have a corner desk which at one end has the desk curved under the computer tower (also acts as a support) and then it bends around over to the other side of the room to the floor (support) and then every 20cm it raises by 20cm 4 times to create a holder for books and DVDs. It then curves back on itself to create a full shelf. This is repeates until it reaches almost the ceiling and then bends around the next wall opposite to the computer and stretches along the wall by a couple of meters to create further storage space (similar to at the top of the image above.

The wall at which the PC is placed is not a solid wall (ie plaster board I assume; 15cm thick) and so the support of the desk bending will be needed as well as wall supports. But the wall it bends around to is an outside wall. The long shelf wall is also an outside wall.

Is this even possible and how would I achieve it?

You could possibly buy it more easily than you could make it, especially if you have no experience with building laminated forms, or the tools to do so.

IF you had those tools and the woodworking experience, that structure will still not be easily made anyway. In order to attain any stiffness with those sharp corners, it appears to be made of thin layers of wood, laminated up over a form essentially into plywood, then probably covered with a contact paper surface. You might use a tool like a veneer press in the form of a vacuum bag that would exert pressure over the entire surface.

I suppose one could cover it with a high pressure laminate too, but this was surely not done in the piece that is the subject of your picture.

Even as a strip laminated form, I'm not sure it would be terribly strong, probably breaking at the joint near the keyboard before long.

I suppose this structure could also be made of some variety of thermo-plastic, molded into that form. If so, it is nothing you could make. Or, you could do this by laminating fiberglass up into the desired form, much as a boat builder might do.

Personally, I'd suggest making an equally useful desk far more simply. Then hang a flat shelf on the wall. All done trivially, without a massive investment in tools, time, and expertise.


Should I rebuild or just replace worn out cordless tool batteries? I have a couple of older Porter Cable 19.2v Ni-Cd batteries which have worn out.  In shopping around for replacements, I've noticed there are a number of businesses which offer to rebuild your existing batteries with new cells.

One of the claims that some rebuild shops make is that they use high capacity cells (2400mAh) which will give longer run times compared with OEM batteries.  Also, since my tools are older, replacements are a bit harder to find.  The cost difference doesn't seem that significant (rebuilding seems a bit cheaper).

Can anyone give me a rundown of things to consider when deciding to rebuild the batteries as opposed to replacing them?  I'd also like to avoid an experience I had about 5 years ago where I purchased a set of 2 "new" Dewalt 18V batteries from an online retailer only to find they did not perform nearly as well as the original batteries that came with the tools.

Rebuilding NiCd battery cell packs can be a good alternative to buying new packs. There are really only a few manufactures of these  type of cells, but the quality can differ as the prices may indicate. The majority of the price of a new pack is the pack package itself, which is specific to each tool, even though the cells inside are pretty similar. The amp hour rating and number of recharges it will take are the most important thing.  I have noticed that the Porter Cable battery packs are a lot less expensive than most of the other brands. To be honest, I haven't researched the brand of cells they use as an OEM, but you can get info online about cell manufacturers and ratings on the quality levels. I would look closely at the warranty the rebuilder is offering, which cells they are using and avoid a bargain basement price with a poor warranty or hidden costs such as a "recycling fee". A supper low price on a rebuild or a complete replacement may indicate a clearance of old stock. NiCd's hate to sit around for long periods uncharged, which can really affect performance and charging ability. Check the date codes and don't accept any that may be much over 6 to 9 months old.


refrigerator water line I have to move a refregerator with Ice maker to a different room. There is no water line there. I am ok with out icemaker in that room. My concern is can I run a refregerator with ice maker with out a water line ? Does it cause any problem to the equipment ?

We ran our fridge with the water disconnected for years without any problems.
What does the manual say?


How can I build deck stairs flush with the end of the deck? I have a deck design where I want stairs coming down perpendicular to the joist starting at the end of the joist.  You can see the picture as a generic not to scale drawing of what I mean.

I had an idea to have the end joist extend past the rim joist.  I then want to attach the stair stringer to the very end of the joist.  I am going to use USP's concealed stringer hanger.

Am I able to put a stair stringer like this, or is there a different/better way to get the stairs flush with the rim joist?

Double beam the ledger,
Notch out a rail seat .65 inches,
Set stringers in place,
Pre drill 3/4" pocket hole horizontally from stringer into ledger (will need 12" to 14" auger bit),
Use 1/2" structural screws to secure stringer to ledger,
Plug hole with hole plugs or mix sawdust with sandable titebond glue and patch hole.

Additionally, stringer 14ga prebent metal underneath each stringer, stubby nailed to ledger will help support weight if it's high off the ground.


Cleanup broken glass and debris I had the back half acre of my lot cleared of brush and saplings.  There was an old shed that the previous owners left to rot.  It had fallen to the ground and there is now a lot of broken glass and small pieces of debris all over the ground.
Along with the debris, there's a lot mulch type of material.
I want to eventually plant grass.
What is the most efficient way to clean this up?
Is there maybe some sort of big rake that I can pull across the lot?

You could have it scraped with a small excavator and apply fresh, clean topsoil.  The best time to do this would be early-spring.  Then you can plant grass seed right away.  When I've done this in the past, it took a couple months to grow and look nice.  Doing that for a half-acre will be expensive but if you only need to do it in the immediate area of the old shed it shouldn't break the bank.
Sod is another option depending on your budget.
If you don't care about getting rid of all the glass, sure, raking or whatever isn't a bad idea.  I'd start by using Roundup or similar to kill most of the existing vegetation to make that easier.  Then use a line trimmer & lawn mower as low as you can.
After that, consider if the raking is doing as good a job as you want; if not, rent a tiller and turn the soil over then re-compact it with a lawn roller (also easy to rent.)


mounting a power-splitter on a foreign electricity transformer I'm using a 110V→220V foreign electricity transformer (image attached).
Is it possible / safe to mount a power-splitter on the transformer, to allow multiple 110V devices to be connected simultaneously through the same transformer, or should I use a separate transformer for each device?

Is the actual problem "I need to power a bunch of 120V devices" or is it "I have a bunch of gadgets that need correct power" ? There is quite a difference. In the picture, it looks like a power adapter (a.k.a. "wall wart") is plugged in.

Many wall warts (or other types of adapters, like "laptop bricks") can actually handle a wide range - e.g., 90V - 240V. If they can handle that range then they will run more efficiently if you simply get a passive adapter that adapts for the type of connection (i.e., the position of the pins) but does not actually change the voltage.

Many wall warts (laptop bricks, etc.) produce a standard output. Typical is ~ 18V for laptops with different tips for different manufacturers/models - there are "universal" adapters available that come with a whole variety of tips, such as this Targus adapter:

Many wall warts are simply USB power converters. They end with a mini or micro USB connector and there is no need to use the one that came with your device. In fact, plenty of people get extras just to be able to plug the same devices in multiple locations in their house.

I recommend getting a USB wall wart designed for your location that has USB A (the familiar little rectangle you find on most computers) connectors instead of a cable. That way you can just plug in standard USB mini or micro cables as needed for your particular device(s) and, with many of these, charge 2 or more devices at once.


How can I repair/replace tires on a hand cart? I have a few small hand-carts. One of them is the two wheel hand-truck/dolly, and one is a larger one on four wheels with an upright handle.

Both have leaky tires. Some of the tires have a slow leak that I need to pump up every time I need to use the cart, but one tire won't even hold air for 20 minutes.

Is it possible to find the leaks and repair them? Or is it better to replace the wheels?

Quick and dirty
You could try some Fix-a-Flat. If nothing else, it might show you where the leak is.
Finding the leak
Pump the tires up and apply some soapy water to them, or hold them underwater in a large bucket.  This will help you locate the leak(s).
Plugging the hole

If the leak is in the tread, you could try a tire repair kit like this

If the leak is in the sidewall, you'll have to replace the tire.

If the leak is near the rim (and the rim is not bent), remounting the tire might fix the problem.


Wiring new ceiling fan to existing light switch box I will be installing a ceiling fan/light kit in our bedroom that did not have any sort of ceiling fixture before.  Currently, the only light switch in the room is a two-way switch that controls the top half of a wall outlet (the jumper tab is broken off on the outlet).

My plan was to install a double-gang box in the wall where the current light switch is and run the new 14/2 cable through the attic to the new fan.  When I took out the existing light switch i noticed this configuration, where the white wire is always hot and the black is switched hot:

Then within the box is the following:

I know it may be tough to make out but one set of nutted wire are two white wires coming out of the wall.  The second set are three wires, the black and white coming from the switch and a red line wire coming from the wall.

My question is, if I want to add a second light switch for independent control of a new ceiling fan, how do I tie that into the current wiring configuration?

You can't have one switch operate light OR fan. Many jurisdictions absolutely require that a switch on the wall near a room entrance, control a lamp. That is to benefit house guests and mainly from the government's perspective, first responders. There's an exception to allow a switched outlet instead, presuming a person is going to plug a floor lamp into that.  There is no exception to allow a fan/light locally switched at the fan. (such things can exist, they can't be the only light). That said:

They now make gadgets to solve the "I have 14/2 and wish I had 14/3" problem.  Each has a smart switch (typically 1-gang) with 2 controls, and a control module which sits under the fan shroud.   The switch communicates with the module either via powerline networking or via wireless, and some of those are compatible with smartphones or integrated home-automation systems as are now emerging in the market.


How to put 5/8" oak dowels into holes which are just barely the right size? I've got a handful of oak dowels (ok, a lot) and holes that are both 5/8" in diameter, the problem is that the dowels are just barely too big for the holes.

I'm trying to figure out easy ways to either sand down the dowels or expand the holes. I don't have a power sander and much in terms of tools.

I was thinking of putting the dowels into the freezer to see if they cool off just enough to get them in the holes or otherwise looking for an alternative to manually sanding down the ends of... a lot of dowels or buying a bench top belt sander.

Are there other tricks I can do to get them to fit nicely?

I can't find a good picture of exactly what I'm trying to make, but this shows the general idea (my holes are drilled all the way through, though):

Some 1/2" drills will allow the chuck to open to 5/8". If you can fit a dowel in the chuck, clamp it in the chuck, touch it to a file while the drill is running. Use the drill as a low tech lathe. Just be careful to not touch the chuck with the file.


Can I keep mold out of wet rags? I am cleaning windows (small business) and that generates a bag of wet dirty cotton towel rags each day. I wash the rags each day, and need to store those until the end of the week, when I take the rags to a local laundry to be dried.
I can't go to the laundry every day, so it is crucial to find a way to store the rags wet for extended periods of time without starting to smell of mold. I have been told that this is impossible, but I don't believe that in the slightest. In fact,
I think that simply packing in a tightly sealed plastic bag will be enough to prevent spores from getting in contact. Also, the wet rags can be treated with a dilute bleach solution if needed. That is just at the top of my head.
Is what I'm suggesting viable?

A sealed plastic bag will not help.  The spores that caused mold are literally everywhere.  Unless you have a "clean room" to process the rags, you're not going to keep the spores out.
The dilute bleach solution, however, is likely to be fruitful. You may want to experiment with the concentration of the bleach to find the most effective ratio.


How to repair a rock maple table leaf support I have a solid wood old fashioned rock maple dining table with drop leafs on either side. There are 4 supports made of the same wood that can be rotated out to support the leafs when they are up. Today one of the supports split in half when the grand kids were fooling around. How can I repair the support piece? It is a clean break, both edges very smooth. Is there a glue strong enough or is it more complicated? Thanks

Normal Wood Glue & clamped or strapped (the tough part) for a day or 2 should do the trick. Wipe off any glue that squeezes out with a damp paper towel, sponge or rag immediately.


Is it ok to lower grade around a well head instead of raising it? I recently learned that well heads should be about a foot or more about ground; ours is only about 3-4" above ground. The well drillers said we really should have it raised and have a better cap put on. This all makes sense but raising it is apparently quite costly. Would it be just as well to dig around the well head to increase the distance from the top of the well head to the ground? We already have a cover that goes all around it to prevent larger animals getting into the well head.

A Thousand to weld an extension , wow!
I agree that the well casing should be above ground. As long as the ground water doesn’t get within 1” of the top I would not mess with it. For example my last house the casing was at ground level. I was on the side of a mountain I dug the high side down a few inches then graded the low side away even with the heaviest rains the water flowing down the hill never got close so it was fine. It may have been ok but I would rather a little safety margin.
If you don’t have high water issues I would say it is ok. I would protect it so it is not a spot that a dog can pee on it. We always put wishing well structures there if not in a well house. One really neat one I saw had a artificial bolder over it it looked really neat for that area.
So if you don’t have high water issues I would not worry. If you do have water over the cap I would probably find someone else a bit more reasonable To extend the casing.


Repairing Hardwood Floor, Two Different Joint Systems My master bedroom closet took some water damage. The closet and bedroom have the same engineered wood flooring. I am trying to replace the engineered floor in the closet only. However, the closest matching flooring replacement planks I could find don't have the same joint-locking system as my current flooring.

Does anyone know of any techniques to make this project work? I am replacing ALL of the floor in the closest, so technically the only place that the two different joints will meet is in the doorway to the closet, where the old flooring will meet the new. Tongue and groove meets locking joints, any suggestions?

There are "tee" moldings, or transition moldings, that the flooring people make that goes with the new laminate that you are planning to use.


How can I rewire this light switch? I have an older mobile home, 80's model. the light switch in a bedroom busted out of the wall so I went to replace it only I am confused about the wiring.

Normally I am fine with this when replacing new lights and stuff but I think this was done wrong. There are two sets of wire bundles in the wall, each with a copper black and white. The switch had a black one the bottom side screw then a copper on the screw above it both from the same line. Then the two whites are put together. Then on the top screw is a wire with black on it and and not positive cause it got pulled out but the copper wire might have been on that same screw and if it wasn't then it was just there in the open.

What is going on? Does that mean two things were hooked up to the switch? But then what?

The standard wiring pattern in USA (but not necessarily elsewhere in the world) for 110/120 AC is

  black - hot
  white - neutral
  bare or green - ground

The hot wire brings the current to the outlet or fixture, often through a switch.

The neutral completes the circuit back to the panel.

The ground is a safety mechanism that, hopefully, will shunt the hot current to the ground (literally) rather than through a person if there is a short.

The terminals of a single pole switch (the only switch in a circuit and turning on/off one device or one set of devices) get the black wires, one on each terminal. Many switches also have a grounding terminal. This is not one of the switch terminals, but is usually a green screw on the metal strap of the switch frame, often on the opposite side from the terminal screws.

In general the white wires in a box should always be connected to each other, and never to or through a switch.

Similarly, the ground (bare) wires should be connected to each other and to the ground  screw if the switch has one.

In your case, one set of wires (black, white, bare) are the source of the power, and one set (also black, white, bare) go to the fixture.

More complicated systems are possible with more colors, more switching choices and other configurations, but they don't apply in this case.

To work on this, make sure that the power is off (a non contact tester is best), before handling any wires.


Software to keep track of renovation What I am looking for is some kind of software to store ideas (links, images, text) for an upcoming renovation. When the renovation starts, schedules could be kept to the same item to know when work commences on it, when it should be done, etc.

I have researched the internet and haven't exactly found what I am looking for. Being in a renovation at this moment, I am trying to use 3 pieces of software to manage everything;

Pinterest for storing images and ideas to incorporate in the renovation. Also used to store different types of finishing touches (colors/brands/etc.).
Evernote for storing lists of required materials, lists of suppliers, tenders, important notes during the renovation.
Google Calendar is used to keep the schedules of arriving materials, POC's (Points Of Completion), schedules contractors need to keep, etc.

My problem is that there is no way I can have a comprehensive overview on all this information. This is why I was wondering if someone could point me to some software which could help me keep this overview.

Take a look at Trello. I use it set up as a Kan-Ban board (think of loads of post-it notes in columns for "to do", "doing" and "done").

You can also add your own columns (so you could have a "suppliers" column for example).

You can add images and ideas, as with Pinterest, and assign dates to cards to in order to track them.

There are various plugins available too, so if you wanted to view the project as a Gantt chart, for example, you could do this too.


Why does pressure relief valve state 'Not for Use with Water Heaters'? So I replaced my 6.5 year old electric hot water (installed with house built in 06') heater and used an identical plumbing setup as my previous install. My previous (and now current) install has a 3/4" pressure relief valve in the cold water inlet. As explained to me, this is a 1st fail-safe to allow the water heater to relief pressure and not wait for the 150 psi T&P valve to blow out water. Basically it's a '1st level backup'.

The relief valve in question, is this 3/4 in. Relief Valve.

All is good and the new water heater is working and flowing great. But I looked up the relief valve I bought and re-installed (identical to the previous valve installed) and there was the following note:

  Not for use with water heaters

OK this concerned me a bit because it was installed with the original hot water heater when the house was built. I see the another comment:

  The solid-brass design meets federal low lead regulation

OK so 'lead' makes me concerned even though it meets requirements. So here are my main questions:

Does it say 'Not for Use with Water Heaters' because it is not intended to be a replacement for a T&P valve which operates at a higher temperature and pressure along with a relief valve on the unit?
Is it not for use with hot water heaters because it has the potential to have a lead containment that will leak into the water?

I prefer a definitive answer as opposed to guesses obviously and responses from anyone who is familiar with that relief valve.

While I can't provide a definitive answer, since I'm not the manufacturer, nor do I, or have I ever worked for the manufacturer.  I can try to provide a logical, fact based answer that may be close to the truth.
Heat Expansion
When water is heated, the pressure in a closed system increases. If the pressure increases beyond the tripping point of the T&P valve on the heater, the valve should open to release some of the pressure. This release usually involves very hot water and steam, released in a controlled manner. If you install a pressure relief valve set lower than the T&P trip value, The relief valve will open long before the T&P valve possibly releasing hot water and steam in an uncontrolled way. This could lead to injury to occupants, or damage to property.
It's possible that your area has not adopted the use of backflow prevention, so this extra pressure can simply be released back through the distribution system.  In which case, you'll probably never see either relief valve ever open. If you do have backflow prevention in place, it's possible that this relief valve could open under "normal" conditions.  The International Residential Code (IRC), and Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) recommend pressure between 40 - 80 psi.

IRC 2009
P2903.3 Minimum pressure. Minimum static pressure (as determined by the local water authority) at the building entrance for either
public or private water service shall be 40 psi (276 kPa).
P2903.3.1 Maximum pressure. Maximum static pressure shall be 80 psi (551 kPa). When main pressure exceeds 80 psi (551 kPa), an
approved pressure-reducing valve conforming to ASSE 1003 shall be
installed on the domestic water branch main or riser at the connection
to the water-service pipe.

So even under "normal" conditions, your 75 psi valve could open.
Controlling Expansion in a Closed System
If backflow prevention has been used in your home, you are required by code to install a device for controlling pressure.

IRC 2009
P2903.4 Thermal expansion control. A means for controlling increased pressure caused by thermal expansion shall be installed
where required in accordance with Sections P2903.4.1 and P2903.4.2.
P2903.4.1 Pressure-reducing valve. For water service system sizes up to and including 2 inches (51 mm), a device for controlling
pressure shall be installed where, because of thermal expansion, the
pressure on the downstream side of a pressure-reducing valve exceeds
the pressure-reducing valve setting.
P2903.4.2 Backflow prevention device or check valve. Where a backflow prevention device, check valve or other device is installed
on a water supply system using storage water heating equipment such
that thermal expansion causes an increase in pressure, a device for
controlling pressure shall be installed.

While a relief valve may fit this description, the more common method is to install an expansion tank.

Safely Releasing Pressure
There are requirements for releasing pressure by way of a discharge pipe, which this valve may not meet.

IRC 2009
P2803.6.1 Requirements for discharge pipe. The discharge piping serving a pressure-relief valve, temperature relief valve or
combination valve shall:

Not be directly connected to the drainage system.
Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water
heater.
Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served
and shall discharge full size to the air gap.
Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping serving
any other relief device or equipment.
Discharge to the floor, to the pan serving the water heater or
storage tank, to a waste receptor or to the outdoors.
Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or
structural damage.
Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the
building occupants.
Not be trapped.
Be installed to flow by gravity.
Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste
receptor.
Not have a threaded connection at the end of the piping.
Not have valves or tee fittings
Be constructed of those materials listed in Section P2905.5 or
materials tested, rated and approved for such use in accordance
with ASME A112.4.1.

Lead Safe
After doing a bit or research, I stumbled upon the NSF website which provides a lot of valuable information. It turns out, the valve mentioned in the question is indeed certified to meet ANSI/NSF 61, ANSI/NSF 61 Annex G, and California's AB 1953.

Which means it is safe for use with potable water (at least as far as lead is concerned). If you check the valve and/or packaging, you'll likely notice the NSF mark.
If you have any other fittings or products you'd like to check out, you can Search for NSF Certified Products.

tl;dr
This valve is not designed (or was not tested) to meet the codes and standards for a pressure relief valve on, or near a water heater. So the manufacturer was forced to mark the fitting "Not for use with water heaters".


Is heavier weight carpet padding a waste of money? I'm looking to replace the carpet in a living room that was left in a state of considerable filthiness by the previous owners of the house.

I went to a local carpet dealer who also does installation and when I we were discussing what I'd like to buy he told me the carpet price included installation and a 6 lb urethane foam. I told him I'd like a softer, heavier frothed foam pad. He told me I could do that, but I'd be wasting money.

Is he telling the truth? Do heavier weight carpet pads not make the carpet any softer?

If I'm looking for the plushest carpet, what plays a role in achieving this?

I was curious about this and did some research myself. From what I read, it appears that the purpose of carpet padding is not for under foot comfort but to extend the life of the carpet. In fact the best performing padding actually provides less comfort under foot but extends the life of the carpet. Although thicker, "plushier" padding would certainly provide a plushier under foot feel (just as if you put a 2x4 over softer material), that is not the goal of the padding. My feeling on this would be to invest the price difference instead into the "plushier" carpet rather then the padding if your concern is simply comfort.


I have a single socket and I would like to know if I can run four more from it Can I add four more sockets from a single socket

No problem, just parallel them.   Hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground, etc.  Use wire nuts and pigtails when you have to attach more than 2 wires to a receptacle side.


Garage door only closes if you hold the button down even with the safety sensors disconnected Garage door will not close without holding down the wall button. Only the wall button will close it. Neither wireless remotes work. I have disconnected the safety devises and still have the same issue.

I have had this happen twice, and it was due to the safety sensors being disconnected. Once I reconnected them and adjusted them to face each other, it fixed it.


Exposed wire on outdoor Christmas lights I am in Europe. I have outdoor Christmas lights. There are 720 white led lights (3v 0.015W), and the power supply unit is 32V 6W.
I have exposed wire close to the plug as shown attached.
The plug is located inside the house and is elevated higher than the entry point of the wire via a window vent (on a side note, is bringing the wire in via a window vent an issue?)
Should I immediately throw these lights in the bin or can I use insulation tape and be worry free?

You do not want to tape this. If that plug is going into a 120V outlet, cut it off and replace the plug with one similar to the one below.

If that plug is going into the low side of the power supply, you can get some insulated splices at your home store and repair the wires.
UPDATED
Based on the new photos, the damaged wires are on the secondary, low voltage, side. So the insulated splices would be the way to go.


How to terminate a circuit I am wiring a Sub Panel to an area near my 5th wheel approx. 100' distant.
I have read that I can terminate the circuits in two ways.

Sub Panel to a pedestal.
Sub Panel to an electrical receptacle secured to a post.

Is one way more prudent than the other?

As in the answers above, there are outdoor rated panels made specifically for RVs. The image below is just one example. You should choose the appropriate panel which is rated for the needs of your RV. If you are thinking of trading up to an even bigger RV in the future, you should take that into consideration as well.

These must be mounted to a fixed location such as on the outside of a building, or on a post/pedestal. The panel below will supply enough power for the entire RV, including the appliances.

Getting back to your original question, you could either use a panel mounted to a post, or a pedestal. The advantage to the pedestal is that it is directly buried in the ground and the installation is a little cleaner. If you don't mind the looks of a post with a conduit coming out of the ground to the box, then it would be a good idea to go with a post since the pedestal is more expensive.

Keep in mind that you should probably consult a licensed electrician for the actual hookup. The long distance from the panel will require a substantial feeder from the main panel. The run will also need to either use wire rated for direct burial and/or run inside of conduit. The sub panel will also need to have independent ground rods which would be driven into the ground near the panel as well.

There may also need to be additional modifications made to your main panel inside your house to make room for the additional circuit.


Replacing a cooktop - old is electric and new is electric induction - Can i use the same wire and just change the breaker? the old unit has these specs
POWER / RATINGS

Amp Rating at 208V  40

Amp Rating at 240V  40

KW Rating at 208V   6.7

KW Rating at 240V   8.8

and the new unit is an induction with these specs?

208 - 240 V - 60 Hz

440 Watts at 3.3 Amps

240V - 7.8kW at 32.5 Amps

208V - 7.1kW at 34.1 Amps

the current breaker is a Twin with 30Amps on each one.

Can i use the existing wire?
What breaker do i need if i need to change?

thanks for the help!

You need to see what the instructions say about breaker protection and circuit size. I'd say no you can't use same wire and just change the breaker and there a good chance the wiring wasn't appropriate for your old cooktop. You probably need a forty amp breaker and #8 AWG CU wire. Again, check the installation directions to determine the electrical needs. Also verify what size wire you have installed. Your existing 30 amp breaker more than likely has #10 AWG wire attached which is good for 30 amps.


What sort of driver works the center screw in this hinge? This door does not like to latch; to latch it I must pull sharply up on the doorknob. So I see a shim in my future. I suppose I need to unscrew the bottom hinge, but what sort of screw-driver does that strange square hole? (Alternatively, would I just shim on the door side?)

Sorry, but that is nothing more than a stripped out Phillips screw.

I'd say drilling it out is your easiest bet.


Dryer isn't drying clothes. I've tried all of the common solutions (I think) My wife and I just bought our first house. I think that we discovered that our dryer vent is going to require some regular maintenance to keep it clean and able to dry our clothes.

When we moved in, we found that the vent opening in our laundry room was absolutely full of lint. I got the vacuum cleaner and sucked up as much as I could and reached up and pulled out some more. When she ran our first load of laundry though, it didn't dry much at all. I went up to the attic and looked in our vent up there and there was more lint but not as much. I picked up an attachment for my drill that I used to clean the vent and ran the brush through the entirety of the dryer vent and removed a lot more lint. I was confident that our problems were solved. However, there hasn't been a noticeable improvement.

My wife noted that when she tried running the laundry, the clothes would be steaming when she pulled them out. Our next plan is to disconnect the vent from the dryer and test to make sure air is actually coming out of the dryer. I really don't want to have to call someone to come out and look at it.

I don't know who I would call
I don't want to spend the money on something that I feel like it should be something I can do.

Can anyone offer any other suggestions on how to try to fix this? We don't have enough hangers to hang all of our clothes up to dry.

EDIT: I mentioned that I was going to check out the air flow from the dryer itself but its also worth noting that when I first started cleaning the dryer vent, I went to the attic while the dryer was running and when I opened up the vent and started pulling lint out, the air flow was good (I don't know how strong its supposed to be) and warm. It was strong enough that lint was blowing out. Our dryer vent is set up something like this [red is the vent]:

[I know my drawing skills are awesome!]

There should (must?) be a vent on the roof.  If you can get up there, take the hat off of the vent and run a fishtape though the vent.  (A fishtape is long, skinny, flexible steel or fiberglass rod that electricians use to run wire through conduit.)  Once you've got the fishtape to the other end, tie a nylon rope to the tape and pull it through.  After that, tie an appropriately-sized round vent brush to your rope.  I'd also tie a rope to the other end of the brush.  Now pull the brush though both ways a couple of times.


Wiring help with ceiling fan Massive struggle with wiring, just purchased ceiling fan and don't understand the two yellow wires and 3 red wires. Any recommendations?

(https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ibZN.jpg)

It would be helpful to know what devices were powered by the black / yellow / red wires.  Providing more information will make it easier for others to help you.  It would also be helpful to know if you are working in a 120V environment (USA) or 240V environment.

I would attempt to identify the hot and neutral wires with a volt meter.  This is the minimum.  If you do not have experience working with volt meters, I suggest that you find someone that does to help and provide safety guidance.

It would not surprise me if the red and black potential difference was 120V (assuming you are in the USA).  Drawing a diagram is helpful to understanding the wiring system.


Locating pipes in garden My lawn retains a lot of water and I've read that using a fork to put holes in can help.

I've already started but I'm afraid to go too deep just incase i got a pipe.

How can i work out where the pipes are?

In typical UK homes, critical infrastructure, like electrical power, gas, water and sewage should be deep enough that there is no danger of hitting it with a garden fork from the surface. About two or three feet would be typical I believe. You can check the depth of your sewer pipes at the manhole located near your home.

For example, according to Anglian Water

  There is a minimum and maximum depth at which service pipes should be laid:

  Minimum depth is 750 mm
     Maximum depth is 1350 mm

750mm is about 2½ feet.

In other countries the situation may differ of course. If you have a very old home or unusual terrain you might need to take more care.

In addition, I don't think you could realistically puncture any of these with a manually operated garden fork. I assume you have not sharpened the tines and are not using a club hammer to force the fork into your lawn.

Tracing underground services from the surface needs expensive specialised equipment (random example, another) which can be hired (random example).


Running line for Electric Water Heater I'm encountering a situation where I'm installing a Electric Water Heater in basement and there's a existing unused out for 240 (30 Amp) available right in room above.

Unit specifications are to use 12/2 guage with 20 Amp, independent circuit.

Running a new line is bit of work until is must.  Connecting 12 guage to 10 guage with 30 amp is not safe either. Any suggestions would be awesome.

You are always allowed to use larger wire than is required.

The breaker must be appropriate for the load.  If you're upsizing wire, don't upsize the breaker too!

NEC 110.3b requires you install the equipment according to instructions, so if a 20A breaker is called out, a 20A breaker it is!

The instructions call out 12 AWG wire.  Upsizing wire is always OK, so #10 wire is just fine on any part of the wiring run.

-

The only place instructions or labeling can deter a wire size bump is if the terminals are not rated for the larger wire.  Then you simply pigtail a short bit of the specified size wire (e.g. #12) and then splice it to the larger wire (e.g. #10) right there.

There are rules on junction box fill (number of wires) but pigtails are "free" in these rules.


Is there a way to know if the photocell is a switch or a dimmer? I plan on installing three LED security lights to my home. I would like to have them turn on and off with a photocell. I am going to have a switch and then install the lights in parallel. I am not sure how to add the photocell.

I have also read that some photocell act like dimmers and I know that won't work with an LED. Is there a way to know if the photocell is a switch or a dimmer?

There are certain photocells that are only rated for incandescent bulbs and there are also photocells that are rated for L.E.D and flourescent bulbs. You would have to make sure if yours will allow L.E.D.s The same goes with dimmer switches. A dimmer that is only rated with incandescent bulbs, if hooked up to a led or flourescent (cfl) bulb will eventually burn out. Again you have to make sure u find the correct photo cell. also to you will install the photocell between the switch and the 1st light in the series of light. It will be

Power comming into the switch > power from the switch to the photo cell > power from the photo cell to the light and so on....


Replace portion of slab for radiant heat Our 1600 SF basement has a slab floor with no insulation underneath. I'm redoing the bathroom (roughly 100 SF, with 7' along the foundation wall) and would love to put in radiant floor heating, but I don't want the floor to be 2" higher than everything else to allow for insulation over the slab.

I'll be jackhammering out significant portions of the floor to reroute plumbing already. Could I replace the slab in the bathroom with something more conducive to radiant heat (e.g. rigid foam with a framed floor on top), or put down rigid foam and pour a thinner slab on top of it? What problems could these approaches cause?

After you remove the floor, dig 2 inches lower for the insulation and pour the new slab to the same thickness as before.


Changing basement tub drain to shower drain - double 90 degree while horizonal, is this bad? We are finishing our basement and had a plumber come out to move the toilet drain and install a drain for a tub/shower combo to fit the floor plan we decided on.  He installed the tub, but we changed our minds and are putting in a shower instead.  The shower base I am using is slightly wider than the tub was (36" vs 30"), and the drain is further to the right and further from the wall from where the tub drain is, so I need to move it.

I raised the valve and capped off the bottom that went to the tub spout so that it will work for the shower.  That part went fine, but the drain I am unsure of.

After digging up the tub drain I see he used what may have been a potential tub/shower drain for the original floorplan that was just left buried (there is no stub out from the floor, only for the toilet) and there are two 90 degree elbows, a 45, then a P-trap, then vertically a couple of 45 elbows.

I thought about putting a horizontal section above the two vertical 45 degree elbows to reposition the drain, but I'm worried about increasing the possibility of clogs.  A second thought was that since the short section between the P-trap and the horizontal elbows is 7/8" I could cut that off and put a new ptrap, and use 45 degree elbows to reposition the drain since there should be enough vertical room.

First, Are either of those 2 solutions going to cause problems?  Would keeping those horizontal elbows (two 90 degree and one 45 degree) make it easier to get clogs?

Is this what you mean? This looks like the only way you are going to get it where  you need it to go.