How do I wire a GFCI to provide continuous power to a dishwasher and switched power to a garbage disposal? I am replacing a regular three pronged outlet with a GFCI for my disposer and dishwasher. There is a white, black, red and ground. How do I install it so as to keep constant power to the dishwasher, and the disposer on a switch? I have tried several different configurations and I have either gotten, power and no switch, or green lite on the GFCI and the disposer won't run.

Disclaimer: Working with electrical is dangerous -- don't do it if you can't do it safely -- call an electrician. Note: I am not an electrician, so I can NOT provide you "expert" advice.

GFCI will only protect things that are further away from the electrical panel than the items to be protected. Most people do not recommend installing more than one GFCI on a circuit unless you are certain that they are not on the same branch (one earlier on the line, one later on the same line) --this can sometimes cause you issues with random or circular tripping GFCI sockets, or waste time when trying to find which GFCI was tripped, and rarely provides a benefit.

Starting with a reference point, a three pronged receptacle has a left short spade (black/hot), a right tall spade (white/common) and the ground pin (copper/unshielded). A GFCI's connections on the back corresponded to these (except flipped); When looking at the back, white to the Silver (in U.S.) screws (tall spade side), blacks to the Brass (in U.S) screws (short spade side). Often, a red lead is added to the the black wire coming from your electrical panel (upstream) so that others will know which is the upstream and which is downstream.

With that out of the way -- You'll need to do some investigation to determine which is which.

Needed Items:

Red electrical tape OR red electrical wire OR painters tape and red marker
Electrical Socket Tester (cheap -- got mine at Wal-mart for a
Wire Nuts (to cap off disconnected wires)
Recommend: A non-contact voltage tester is always good to have with working with electricity. Again, picked mine up at wal-mart for about $10.

Only leave breaker on long enough to confirm whether tester is on or off, unbalanced connections are dangerous. Always cap disconnected wires.

Steps:

Turn off breaker. (assume this for every step)
Connect only one white and one black (and keep ground connected). Turn breaker on. If outlet has power, you have your "upstream" wires. If not:
Rinse and repeat the first two steps, except:

2nd time: swap for other white wire.
3rd time: swap for other black wire.
4th time: swap white wire back (by this time you should have found your "source" wires)

On the black "source" wire wrap it on the coated part with a short piece of red electrical tape, or add a short red wire (of same load rating) using a wire nut, or fold a piece of tape around the coated part making a flap and put a red X on each side. Just for my own knowledge, I also put a piece of red electrical tape on the white wire as well, just so I know what wires go where.
The other two wires are your "downstream" wires.
Lastly, you should confirm exactly what is "downstream" of this outlet, once you have the 2 "source" wires connected and the 2 "downstream" wires disconnected, verify that what you expect to be protected will actually be protected, and that the wiring it not connected to anything unexpected (check lights/appliances/disposal/dishwasher/etc).

Note: You will probably want to do this first before going through the trouble of finding the specific wires, so that you can confirm which outlet should be replaced in order to protect your circuit.

The GFCI, at a minimum, should be labeled on the back with "LINE" and "LOAD" markings, and may also have "white" and "black". "LINE" refers to your upstream/source/hot wires coming from the electrical panel. "LOAD" refers to your downstream outlets/appliances to be protected.

You should refer to your specific GFCI markings, but this typically means (clock-wise from top-right on back of a vertical socket -- top-left in picture below) the connections are RED (line/source hot), BLACK (downstream hot), WHITE (downstream common), WHITE (line/source common). Both whites should be on one side while the red/black wires should be on the opposite side.

 from Source Website -- I don't know anything about this website, they just had a good picture.

Hope that helps.


Temporary Fix for Leaky Sink Gasket Washer - Putty? all. I have a kitchen sink gasket that is leaking small drips between the rubber gasket/washer and the screw ring. It looks like the glue between the pieces and somewhere along the cardboard ring is coming apart.

Is there a way to re-glue or seal the pieces together and stop the leak without having to take things apart? Maybe like a putty or sealable tape that someone can recommend?

To expand on the other answer. There is not going to be any fix that you can somehow kludge on top of the already leaking basket that will provide a reliable solution. The correct solution is to simply take apart the existing assembly and repair it with a proper sealant.

Note that on most sinks there is to be some plumbers putty installed under the upper rim of the drain basket that gets squeezed down against the rim of the hole from the top side of the sink. This putty is what really seals the joint that is leaking on your sink. The washer that you see underneath the sink is just a bearing surface for the big round ring nut that threads onto the outside of the drain basket.

In many instances the drain basket may be best replaced completely. They are not particularly expensive and can be purchased at hardware stores and home centers.

Keep in mind that if you should choose to ignore the advice here and attempt to fix the leak by globbing on silicon sealer, epoxy or other type of material you will make it much harder to remove the basket for the proper fix when the kludged repair fails.


What are these wooden glass dividers called (cabiner window dividers)? I'm replacing broken glass in my display cabinet door, with glass on order.
When removing the old glass and glazing I tried to salvage as much as I could, including the thin wooden strips that divided the glass pieces. However, it is clear that they are unsalvageable and need replacing also. The only issue is... I have no idea what they are called or where to buy them.
Can anybody help?
I am assuming they are a specialist piece, rather than just a wooden strip?
I have measured the dimensions to be: 18mm (height) x 1mm (width) x however long they need to be.
I did find something like this online for model boat making; I'm nust not sure if it's suitable and could do with some guidance.
FYI: I should also state that the strips should be flexible enough to fit the shape seen in the pictures below:

That part of the window is known as the "muntin", so these would be "curved muntins" - although I couldn't find much about them.  From the pictures you posted, it appears to be some kind of thin plywood, with the outer layers oriented perpendicular to the window surface to better bend.  Veneer is definitely also an option, and probably the simplest way to get wood that thin.  Most of the structure holding the glass just comes from the glazing.
If you do use veneer, try to orient the pieces so that the grain helps you bend them, don't try to bend against the grain.  Some steam, or ironing them between damp cloths might help.


What is this door lock hardware part called? We have Baldwin Prestige series front door entry handset. While removing the handle from the door to refinish the door, the screws broke off inside this little mechanism. Does anybody know what this is called? I have searched endlessly online for the part and cannot find it anywhere. I might have better luck if I know the name of the part. Thank you

It’s called a “door lock rose” or “door lock rosette”. You can Google it or contact a door hardware supplier.
I’ve had excellent service from Emtek.com. Terrible website, but great customer service.


Is this wiring dangerous? Smart Thermostat C-wire AC adapter twisted together Is this wiring scenario dangerous? Is it likely produce sparks or damage my HVAC system?
Please read the description and see the image below.
Description
I didn't have a C-wire for my Emerson Sensi smart thermostat so I got an AC adapter. The adapter has two wires. Instructions say to put one of them in the C slot and the other into either RC or RH.
However my system (gas furnace and central AC) requires both the Blue RC and the Red RH wire to function properly. I tried putting the second wire into Y2 and W2 to see if that would work, no luck.
The working combination was to place one wire into the C slot as seen below, and the second one I twisted together with the RH wire. Works well so far.
Let me know if you think this could be a problem, and what else I might try to fix this.
From my reading, it seems like I could probably add a C-wire without this silly AC adapter, but it's an apartment with a cramped furnace closet and I would like to avoid running new cables through the wall.

Well you are using low voltage infact finger safe voltages unless your adapter was a welder in a previous use I would not be concerned if everything is working, I have used adapters to power thermostats when it was cheaper than pulling new wire when RH & RC and fan were all good with my adapter (or transformer).


How to cover area under vanity with PEX exposed? I just installed IKEA vanity and it requires re-run new PEX. Since behind the wall is concrete at corner wall, only way is to run PEX outside the 2x4 like picture below.

But now it opens a hole like that and sometime I can feel wind blow into it since the left side is the garage.

And it’s not simple to cover with drywall as the pex is in the way.

What are my options?

Just stuck some insulation behind the 2x4 and prevent wind blow into it
Duck tape or some kind of thin panel?
Make a “box” extruding outside. This is complicated as I have to deal with clearance from the ikea drawers

Get some fireblocking foam and fill the hole

Since the thing on the other side of the wall with the hole in it is your garage, IRC R302.5.3 kicks in, which requires penetrations in the house-garage wall to be sealed in accordance with R302.11, item 4, which in turn requires an approved fireblocking material to be used for the job, albeit not necessarily something fully tested for firestopping (as you'd find in a commercial or institutional building).  Most jurisdictions will accept a garden-variety fireblocking spray foam for this job; these materials form a char layer on their surface that cuts off their innards from further combustion, thus keeping the fire from getting to the other side for a little while.


How can I support a heavy sink in a homemade bench table? We have a cool old soapstone utility sink in our laundry room that has developed a crack and needs to be replaced. We can't find/afford to replace it  with the same thing, but I found a deep iron sink that would fit the space nicely and I'd like to build a stand like this for it:

This would suit the space much better than adding cabinets. It would be much narrower as we only have ~25" to work with, but the basic concept of dropping the sink into a workbench is what I'd really like to replicate. The sink is pretty heavy and I am not sure how to select a material for the countertop that can support the weight of an iron sink. I could get a steel sink but I like the iron sink.

Not sure what the sink weighs but I found it difficult to lift so I'd guess close to 100lbs. And we need to be able to fill it with water so there's another 80lbs or so. Assuming I accurately calculate the weight of the full sink, how do I know that the countertop material I'm using can support it?

Can I use plywood for this? What should I be looking for in selecting wood?

I think the general bench idea is fine, but depending on the actual weight and positioning of the sink, it might need a middle leg to support the weight.  My plan would be to build wooden framing that would support the weight of the sink on its own so the choice of top material wouldn't matter as much.

In other words, build a top with a framed out rectangle of boards that would fit the sink and support the full weight.  For the choice of top material, think about what is going to be durable in the possible wet conditions of a sink.  Plywood would work fine, but will need to be sealed well against water.  Wooden slats might work well also, but again it will be more of an aesthetic choice if the frame is made (or reinforced) to hold the sink on its own.

Just general guidelines - for a 6' long bench and a 60lb sink, I don't think you would need a middle leg if using 2x4's for the "frame" of the top and the sink on one side.  If you needed longer and the sink is moved more to the middle, you might want a middle leg.


Should furnace fan run when return and supply are 'backwards'? Our furnace supply vents are in the middle of the house and the returns are on the outside - which I understand is 'backwards'.

When the furnace is running, plenty of hot air comes out, but seems to struggle to heat the outside areas of the house.

Between cycles when the fan is 'on', it seems to only blow cold air out the supply vents.

My question: Is it still efficient / worth running the fan in between cycles if they really make the house seem 'drafty', or should I leave them off?

House info:

We have 1200 SQFT single family cinder-block house with hardwood floors. We recently had the crawl space conditioned and 18" of blown fibreglass put in the attic (along with all leak sealing, etc.) Our furnace is a 85%(ish) efficiency Lennox gas / electric blower.

We have been keeping the house at 68F during the day and 62F at night, which is most comfortable when the temperature is 25F and over.

I've been running the furnace up to 70F when it's really cold (20F and below down to 5F during the day, 5F to -10F at night) in an effort to heat more of the house up a bit more.

Updates based on questions in comments:

the air is 'cool' but not 'cold' like it's coming from the outside - it feels like it's just pulling air the cold air from the vents that are sitting next to the walls that won't heat up
the furnace is in the crawlspace, and within the conditioned crawl space (which is a vapor barrier on the floor and an insulated vapor barrier on the crawlspace wall with the space between the floor joists and the crawlspace walls filled with spray-foam)
and I was told and have read that running the fan in between cycles keeps the warm air moving around the house - but I'm starting to doubt that's a good practice in my case...?

You're right--it's not a matter of efficiency, but of comfort. I'm in a similar climate, and the only time I run the fan between heat cycles is if 1) I have the fireplace burning and it gets very warm in some parts of the house, or 2) I have a lot of company over and we need air circulation.

Otherwise, it just makes the house feel cold. I wouldn't do it. Granted, I don't have your reversed airflow path, so I may not have issues with window icing and cold zones to the degree that you do.

I'd look into having flow reversed. It's probably a fairly inexpensive job to reconfigure the furnace plenums, and you could tackle the vent swaps yourself. That is, of course, if the duct capacity is appropriate.


Installing fascia boards on uneven roofline I am doing some repair work on an old shed. I cut back rotted rafter tails and installed new eave trim. I plan on adding drip edge and new asphalt shingles next. When I installed the eave trim, I nailed it in following the roof line edge. However, after I installed the eave trim I noticed that there is a noticeable bow to the bottom of the eave trim. I have considered keeping the trim level at the bottom and adding drip edge at the top to hide the uneven junction between the roofline and the top of the trim.
What is the proper way to handle installing eave trim on a roofline that slightly sags in the middle (i.e. 1-2" off in the center of the roofline)?

You have a couple options, but only one will make it look truly right without creating an oddly-shaped fascia or a ski jump in your roof. You'll need to raise the rafter tails. They're likely low in the middle because either the wall is sagging or the rafters weren't cut or fit well to begin with.
I would examine how the rafters are fastened to the wall plate. If they're not locked down hard, cut some wood wedges and begin driving them in a little at a time. Set a carpenter's line across the roof edge to act as a guide, and work each rafter up until you have a straight line.
Once everything is in place, re-fasten the rafters in some reasonable way. Hurricane ties might do, or timber screws from above.


Window security pins to pull hinge tight Do there exist such pins or bolts that are cone or mushroom in shape that, when a window or door is shut, the cones push on the side of the receiving hole and cause a slight pushing force to cause the window or door to close tighter?

Perhaps similar to these, but I'm aware these are anti-jemmy devices.

enter link description here

We have an issue with our upstairs double glazing where, although the seals are OK, the windows can't easily be adjusted and need a tiny amount of movement on the hinge side to pull the window in and make the seal even better.

There is such a window component that holds the hinge side of a casement tight and it's typically found on the exterior side of the sash when it is closed.

The component is called a snubber (different from an anti-jemming) and can either be made of PVC or Aluminum to match the exterior finish of the window. (Additional link 1)

___

Though snubbers are intended to prevent bowing (see item description) of an outswing-casement, they can also be used to ensure that the sash is close to the frame when closed. However, snubbers are not the only elements that help the sash seal better. The weatherstripping and the casement hardware also determine how tight it is and you can contact the window's Service Technician to adjust the operator arms/hardware of the casement sash without having to replace either/both the weatherstrip or hardware.

Though, depending on what kind of operator handle you have, you can remove the handle and reattach it at a slightly rotated position from where it originally was. However, please do this at your own discretion as over-tightening the sash can cause issues related to the performance of the casement and/or damage the operator hardware if the seal is too tight.

Note: The operator handle solution below is only applicable to crank-out style casements. If the window you have is a Euro-style (turn and/or tilt with handle) contacting a Service Technician for adjustments is recommended.
(Pictures of your window are needed to better address the sealing issues you have with it.)

1:
  [2]:
  [3]:
  [4]:

[Update] In the event of your window being a Euro-styled window, with a multipoint locking system, you would need to adjust/re-calibrate the Compression Strikers, Turn[/tilt] Strikers, and Lift Mishandling Device(s) attached to the inside perimeter of the frame. Without proper training or tools, however, maintaining consistent alignment on all four sides of the sash can be difficult and may compromise the weatherseal of the window.

___

Hinge Wedges

A final solution are hinge wedges/pull in blocks.

They work almost identically to the snubbers at the top, however these wedges are concealed within the sash/frame void and slide against each other to "pull in" the sash.


Water pump pliers or pipe wrench with PVC pipe? Which one is the correct tool?

The task at hand is connecting PVC adaptors (male brass threads on one end, PVC/CPVC fitting to receive glue on the other) to valves with brass (?) bodies.

If it's a fitting similar to this.

I'd go with an adjustable spanner (also known as a crescent, or adjustable wrench). As it has smooth jaws, and will not mar the surface of the soft metal fitting.

If the fitting that this is threading into, is also a hex fitting. I'd use another adjustable spanner, to hold that in place while tightening the joint. If this is threading into a pipe, or fitting that is smooth. I'd use a pipe wrench to hold the smooth pipe/fitting in place, while tightening the joint. Wrapping a rag around the pipe before grabbing it with the pipe wrench, will reduce the marring of the pipe being held.
If you're transitioning from one type of pipe to another, you might want to consider installing a union. This will allow you to disconnect the pipes, without having to cut the PVC/CPVC. A union that goes from brass to PVC/CPVC, might be just what you need.

If you're threading a brass fitting into a PVC/CPVC fitting, you might want to rethink that idea. If you're threading PVC/CPVC into a brass fitting, you might also want to rethink that.

Update:
With the fitting posted, I'd probably; very gently, use tongue and groove pliers (also known as Channellocks).  Though  if it were me, I'd probably avoid that fitting. I'd use a PVC/CPVC to brass union instead on one side of the valve, and a hex adapter on the other.


Hand build wood transition strip two different height floors I have seen several posts about transition strips but not the answers I needed. I have two different heights but same flooring. Is there a way to build a wood transition strip that can be stained. Looking for ideas.

Yes, you can make a transition strip from wood. Without a more detailed picture and look into the area affected, it's hard to offer much more of an idea - cut wood to fit hole, mark floor level on each side, cut/plane/trim/rasp/beltsand to the marked line on each side, stain, fail to match the flooring color and either "not quite match" or go for "deliberately accentuate it since it won't match anyway." Not matching may reduce the tripping hazard (But I can't tell how much elevation difference from that picture, either)
Depending on the flooring material, you might be able to attach a chunk to a wood strip cut lower by the thickness of the floor for a better match.


Can I use 12awg ground from main panel to subpanel? I recently rebuilt a shed that had electricity run to it in the past. There are wires run from the main panel to the shed underground. The old shed used 12 gauge black, white and green wires. There are also 10 gauge black and green where there was an old RV outlet. I have 3 - 12 gauge wires (blk, white, and grn) to a 20 amp breaker in the house and 2-10 gauge wires (black and green) on a 30amp breaker in the house, run to the shed. I installed a subpanel in the shed and am trying to figure out what is the best way to wire it up. Id like to have the 10awg wires because I could use more amperage (30Amps).

Can I use the black and green 10g wires for the hot and neutral (Jump the 10g hot to the other hot bus)? Also can I use the 12g ground from the main panel to the subpanel ground bar? (which is separate from the neutrals) I have a grounding rod also that will be tied to the ground bus.

The wires are in liquid tight and are individual thhn stranded wires. The rv outlet was a three pin outlet. I'll look up that 250.122 rule.

Today I opened the junction box that is halfway between the run of these wires and opened the main box to check. I noted that there is a white 10g that runs from main to junction box, then ties to the green 10g that runs to the shed. Im not sure why the person that ran these didn't continue with white. Can I use this green for neutral, or do I need to run a white and pull out the green?

Conduit is your friend
You indicated these are THHN wires in liquid tight conduit. The bad news is that you can't just use a green ground as a neutral or hot, or use a white neutral wire as a hot. There are certain situations with cables where you can use a white as a hot or switched hot, but that is not the case in conduit.
There are only a few colors that matter in the US, and they definitely matter here:

White or gray = neutral
Green = ground
Black, red, blue, yellow, orange, etc. - basically everything else = hot

The good news is that you can run new wires as needed - that's the bonus of having conduit. For a proper subpanel, you should have 2 hots + neutral + ground. Ground and neutral separate from each other (remove the bonding screw if there is one and put neutral and ground on separate bars).
We can't guess what size conduit you have and, therefore, how many or what type of wires you can run through it. But assuming your 3 x 12 and 2 x 10 were installed correctly previously (i.e., not a problem with conduit fill), you should be able to remove the 3 x 12 and add 2 x 10 wires. Since you already have black and green, add a red and a white. That will give you a pretty standard:

Black = Hot
Red = Hot
White = Neutral
Green = Ground

Wire them all up to your 30A subpanel and you will have 30A x 240V or 60A x 120V (or some combination of 120V and 240V, depending on your needs). The 30A breaker in the house needs to be a double-breaker, not just 2 random breakers in the panel, so that you have the breakers on different legs so that you have 240V and so that you have common shutoff. Your 30A subpanel can actually have a larger breaker inside it as the breaker there is just a shutoff switch and not to protect the 10 AWG wires as the breaker in the house takes care of that.


I need help opening this light cover How do I remove this cover? It turns a little bit but doesn't screw off. There isn't much give for me to try pry an edge out. I'm in the verge of smashing it lol

It might pull straight down with spring clips holding it in place.


How to loosen glass bulb cover from metal base? I need to replace one of the lightbulbs in my bathroom's lightbulb fixture. The bulb itself  is a halopin bulb that inserts with a metal hook, but its covered by a glass cage/receptacle that should just screw unto the metal base in the fixture. That glass cage is stuck. Based on other bulbs in the fixture it is supposed to screw off easily but the one that needs to be replaced is jammed. It's hard to put my full force into it because there is a sconce around it limiting my range of motion (I actually broke the sconce on an identical fixture downstairs trying to replace another stuck part). Any ideas on how I can get the glass off the metal more easily?

Try squirting some sort of grease such as WD-40, or even more natural and thicker oils like olive oil into the part where the glass cage touches the inside metal.

Make sure to hold the fixture downward in the way that you pictured and try to minimize getting grease on the part of the glass which you grab.

Apply a damp cloth to the glass cage and fan the area to cool and thus take some of the pressure off of the thread in the metal. Switch between the damp cloth and setting it out in the sun to compress and decompress the glass, all the while attempting to turn it back and forth.

Hope this helps!


Can I use a car jack for a broken bed leg? I have a steel bed and one of the legs is broken. I think the bed leg would require welding but then I got an idea, why not use one of these jack stands: 2 Piece Pair 3 Ton Heavy Duty Adjustable Jack Stand instead?

My question is, would this jack stand meet the requirements? Or would it cause any issues such as creaking or wobbliness? The base of my bed is around 10.5 inches above the floor. Would the jack stand fit the height of the bed?

Weight capacity, no problem.

Staying put, noise from motion, stubbing your toes, limited height adjustability; all probable or definite problems.

Bed frames in perfectly usable shape tend to go for a song at secondhand stores, or end up in the waste stream as they rarely get sold and too many are donated. I suggest you go buy one of them, and then see if you can find a place to take your broken frame as scrap steel rather than trash.

Either that, or have it welded.


What does wire loops on the wall for? I bought a house recently, and there are wires in the walls under stucco. But in basement these wires are go out as a loops not far from the ceil.

What are they for? Are they for lamps? If yes, then what it the right way to hang lapms on these "loops"?

I'm unsure of typical Russian construction techniques but this appears to be standard non-metallic house wiring cable. You need to determine if there is current available continuously or if it is switched somewhere. A non-contact circuit tester would help. You would not hang lights from this. My best guess is you somehow mount the fixture base over the spot and cut into the cable to connect the fixture in parallel. If the cable is unswitched, the fixture needs to have it's own switching provision.


Gas Fireplace Pilot Light Line Replacement I'm replacing the pilot light assembly on a gas fireplace after removing the old line from the valve, there's no indication any thread sealant was used on the original installation.

Is there any situation with gas line connections where you wouldn't use thread sealing tape (yellow)?

Pilot lines in most cases use 1/4" aluminum tubing and their fittings are compression type fittings that use no pipe dope. In some cases flare fittings have been used for the pilot line. Thread sealing tape is only used on the pipe threads of gas fittings and not the actual pilot tubing.


Will a 4" non-reinforced concrete slab support my swimming pool? I am purchasing a 7' x 10' portable above-ground exercise pool which holds 2200 gallons of water.  I plan to set it on my concrete patio which is quite wide and is 4" thick, with no rebar in it.  Will the 4" concrete slab support 2200 gallons of water?  My pool will be delivered soon so I need to know as soon as possible.

Concrete is usually rated at 3,000 or more PSI, which is a measure of crush resistance. You won't come anywhere near that. So the question becomes one of crack resistance, and that's going to depend almost entirely on the integrity of the substrate.

If it was poured directly on organic soil, it'll probably crack. If it's on a good base of gravel, sand, or recycled concrete, it'll probably hold well. Really, though, a crack won't change the slab's ability to support the pool. I'd assume that the pool will be placed on a mat of some sort that would protect it against any edges or irregularities in the concrete.

Some calculations (which are approximate, but close enough to allow us to dismiss outright crush strength as a concern):

  7ft * 10ft = 70 sq ft
  70 sq ft * 144 sq in = 10,080 sq in
  17,458 lbs / 10,080 sq in = 1.7319 PSI

As you can see, crush resistance isn't a concern. It's all about whether the slab has to span any weak areas in the substrate, which could result in cracks and surface offset.


Is there a simple way that does not involve adding more end to end wires to make this a two way switching? Below it is the wireing diagram that shows you how my garage lights are powered.
I intend to add the power outlet and the switch that are to the right of that brown dotted line, they are not there yet, just the lights are there The garage door lights are already there. The receptacle will have a ground wire, I missed to add that.

The initial idea was to be able to use the receptacle without having the lights on in the middle of the day.

After thinking more about it, I would like to be able to switch the entire circuit on either from the garage or from inside. Is this possible without adding more wiring? (I am ok to add any wires to the right of the dotted line) If yes, how?

Edit: the alternative that I have right now is to use home automation and switch the circuit on using my cell :-) That implies adding a 20-40CAD circuit in that box where the indoor switch is

Honestly, smart switches are the way to do that.   I still don't understand why you want a switch on the PIR, however; it only disrupts its functionality.

So I would straight-wire right through the leftmost switch so it is bypassed.  In the right switch box, put a smart-switch "master" and control the garage lights.  Then in the leftmost switch box, fit a smart-switch "remote" that controls the master in a 2-way configuration (note that this switch does not interrupt any wires, but taps hot and neutral).

Use systems like Insteon that use powerline signaling or their own radio comms (Insteon uses both), and therefore don't fail if you change your WiFi password.  Though it is certainly OK if they also talk WiFi/phone etc.

You have to be careful controlling lights with your phone.  Code requires certain lights to be controllable via a physical switch in the usual/expected locations; this is so guests can navigate your house, and "guests" includes first responders.  Fortunately these aren't any of those locations, so you don't care about that.   However, the second impact is to resale value.  Nobody wants to buy a house where they can't control the lights.  And the smart-aleck response of "install an app" is going to cost you $1000 on their offer, because they will assume you did this a lot, and they'll have to put $1000 into an electrician to make it all normal again.


Does code allow flexible PVC for drain through joists? I need to run a drain line for a sink through a multitude of joists. I could certainly cut 16" pieces of PVC pipe and use couplers to join, but, the numerous joints seems like an excess of places that failure could occur.
PVC pipe, with added plasticisers to make it flexible, behaves almost exactly like rigid PVC in terms of pressure rating, interior smoothness, etc. It can be solvent welded into regular PVC fittings. Would it be to code (2018 NSPC; I'm in NJ) to use a carefully supported run of flexible PVC to ensure slope is maintained in place of rigid PVC with numerous joints?

Flexible drain lines are VERY prone to "double-trapping" themselves and failing to work. I don't know from a code POV but I'd guess not, and I know from experience that "draining things with hoses" can be fraught with peril - yes, I note that you said carefully supported.
In most cases by using slightly oversized holes and exploiting the slight flex of "rigid" pvc it is possible to get "longer than one joist bay" sections of pipe between joists. You can almost always get a two-joist bay section (i.e. 32" in this case) section in place just by angling it up and then rotating. Whether you can get more than that depends on the size of the pipe and the position of the holes relative to the bottom of the joists, unless you can get "end access" at one end to stick it in straight.
The other option is to run it below the joists.


Is my doorknob handleset installed correctly? I recently had a new front door installed and the installer also installed a new doorknob handleset (it's a Schlage F60 V CAM 619 ACC).

The new door is weather and impact resistant so it opens out and has some weather stripping to seal it firmly.

Detailed steps to reproduce my problem:

Stand outside with door properly closed and the deadbolt locked
Depress the thumb piece fully

At this point, the door jumps as if it's about to swing open toward you, makes a thud, and is only stopped by the deadbolt being contained within its strike plate. The latchbolt is no longer contained within its strike plate.

It seems to me that a storm/impact should not be prone to movements like this. I'm thinking that debris could hit the thumb piece during a storm and compromise the seal (you never know).

We've all probably seen and used doors like this. My question is whether this is correct or proper? Should I have the installer fix this? Should it simply be a matter of moving back the deadbolt's strike plate (towards the interior) to prevent the wiggle room after the thumb piece is depressed?

There is always a little difference where the strike catches and the deadbolt hits the edge of the keeper. If there wasn't, the deadbolt would be difficult to latch. The weatherstripping needs to be compressed when the latch sets into the strike allowing the room needed to let the deadbolt engage easily. When the latch is depressed, and the door releases the little bit that it does, the weatherstripping should still be compressed enough to do its job.

FWIW, the odds of a limb hitting the thumb latch and creating a problem by doing so is very improbable, in my opinion.


Why don't the textures of drywall patches match the room? I recently remodeled a bedroom and installed new drywall.  We painted the walls and ceiling with flat paint (since this is in the master bedroom and it is supposed to "hide" imprefections better than glossy finishes). But then we had a few "screw pops" in the ceiling where the drywall screws starting coming out (either due to the wood supporting the drywall drying or poor installation on my part to begin with).  I decided to fix the screws by adding new screws to hold the drywall up against the joists and either removed the old screws or screwed them deeper into the drywall.  Then I patched the holes and repainted.

I figured since I was using the same paint and we had put the initial coat on a month earlier the pathes would be invisible. The color is a perfect match (it is the same paint after all) but the "finish" is all wrong.  In artificial light or when looking at it on an angle you can still clearly see the patches.  Is there anything I can do to get this finish to match?  Is this all happening because my paint is the try "flat enamel" and not an eggshell or semi-gloss?

The initial coat on the walls (before the repair) was done with a roller while the paint over the patches was done with a brush.  However I don't think that made a difference because there are not brush strokes visible and the difference is not where the new paint is (a larger area than the patches) but it just the patched/sanded area.

Painting with a roller leaves an "orange peel" type texture that you can't match exactly with a brush.  When you brushed your new paint on, the orange peel texture in the unsanded areas just telegraphed through your new brushed paint, but the smoothly sanded parts had no such base texture so they look visibly smoother.

To fix this I'd go over your patches again with a small roller and you should get the same sheen and texture as in the original paint.


Contactor relay connected to circulating pump not working I have a 120V coil contactor relay connected to a pump.  The pump is connected on the control terminals of the relay.  I would like to switch another circuit when the pump circuit is turned on, but this problem has to do with the control circuit. When I energize the circuit, the relay clicks but the pump does not turn on.  On the other hand, if I jump the relay (bypass the relay), when I energize the circuit the pump does turn on. I’ve tried two different relays with the same result. Pump is here https://www.pexuniverse.com/armstrong-astro250ci-circulator-pump
Relay is here https://canada.newark.com/carlo-gavazzi/gdp251ss120v/contactor-spst-no-120vac-panel/dp/45Y3714

It sounds (and looks) like you've put the relay coil in SERIES with the pump, not in PARALLEL with the pump. Correct that and both should work as expected.

So, hot from whatever turns the pump on goes to pump and one end of relay coil. The other end of the relay coil goes to neutral, as does the other side of the pump.


Where is the filter for my furnace located? In an addition in my house before I moved in, a second furnace was installed way up on crawl space.  The furnace is a Carrier Weathermaker 9200 and it was installed sideways (really 90 degrees counterclockwise from a normal standing position) just for perspective.
I called up the company that installed it way back when and while they still do exist they no longer travel to my neck of the woods so they can't come out to talk about the installation if their notes were even detailed enough and still kept from the installation.
But I had the instruction manual and so I was able to take off the front cover and then the cover for the area where the filter would normally be (as stated by the instruction manual).  Now my other furnace uses disposable filters and I know what they look like.  But for this one, I would imagine that they would use a reusable filter.  When I open up the compartment, I don't see anything I would call a filter.
It is possible that based upon requirements of the space I suppose that the filter could be relocated to another part, but again looking over the unit, I don't see where that would be.  According to the manual page I am posting, it should be #8, and I have a clear picture of that region.
Can you please tell me if you see a filter, and if not, where there might be one for this model?

Your filter is in the return vent in the wall. Look at photo #5 in your post and you’ll see the markings of a 12x12x1” filter. Flip out the two tabs at the bottom and the grill should swing out to allow you to change the filter.


Is it possible to find 4" x 8" lumber? I'm putting in an end-grain floor in my house. The idea is that you cut normal dimensional lumber into 3/4' "bricks", then lay them like tile.

What I'd like to find, however, is 4"x8" or even 4"x6", so the bricks are larger. I have not been able to find these at normal hardware stores (like Home Depot or Lowe's). Is this a specialty cut of some sort that I will need to special order?

This is not lumber, but framing timber as used in post and beam construction or for center joist support.

You're looking for support beams.

Our local lumber yard carries this stock, not likely to find it at the big boxes as they're more oriented towards stick framing for housing not utility and agricultural construction.


Swapping High voltage breakers; change 50amp to 40amp I have 6AWG wiring with a 50amp breaker; no device is yet connected to the circuit. I need to swap the 50amp breaker for a 40amp breaker. I have popped the breaker loose from the bus bar in the panel. Are the red and black wires I need to transfer to the 40amp breaker actually live wires? I'm not going to touch them but rather just wanted to know for peace of mind.

The metal bar that the breaker connects to is hot.  The breaker provides power to the connected wires, and cuts power to them when it is off.  So, if everything else is working correctly, the wires connected to the breaker do not have any power.

While it's possible to not have a main breaker in that panel to cut off all power, there's normally a switch or a breaker in another box that will do it.  The bus bars inside a panel are large and easy to touch, so its best to turn off power to the whole panel when swapping breakers.  Cutting off all power also keeps you safe from wiring mistakes that could result in power being fed back into the panel from another, seemingly unrelated breaker.


When there is no room to stabilize a nut, what then? I have an electric chair that someone cut the power cord and power pack from and are no longer accessible.  I'm removing the motor and one of the bolts in the frame to it spins relentlessly along with a locking nut that is supposed to be permanently fused to the frame (I know this because the other locking nuts are attached to the frame) but this one is not.  There is no room to put another wrench to the nut while loosening the bolt.  What is the best way to remove this particular bolt?  Not ready to give up on it but definitely need some suggestions.

I'd try simply wedging something in against the head of the bolt if you have any accessibility at all. Otherwise, an impact tool may break it loose even without support on the bolt. Often the inertia of the bolt's mass is enough to hold it against the tool's force.


Is my plan for a new bathroom lighting and fan circuit code-compliant? I am adding a new lighting circuit to my bathroom remodel and wanted to get some feedback on my planned wiring layout. This circuit is in addition to a pre-existing dedicated 20A circuit for the outlets.

I am going to feed a 3 gang box with a 14/2 15A circuit from my breaker box. Then pigtail the hot and neutral to 1 dual dimmer switch, and a deadface GFCI.

From the dual dimmer, I was going to run 14/3 to a vanity fixture and 2 pot lights, sharing the neutral.

The second run will go to the GFCI, then to a dimmer and timer combo, then a 14/3 run to a pot light in the shower and an exhaust fan, also in the shower wet area. This run will also share the neutral.

My original plan was to run 14/2 from each switch to each fixture, but it would seem more efficient to pull 2 14/3 runs rather than 4 14/2 runs, especially due to challenges in the structure to get the wiring thru.

Thoughts on this layout being code compliant? Any opinions for improvement?

Since you already have a 20A small appliance branch circuit feeding receptacles in the bathroom in question, your plan is fine.  NEC 210.23(C)(3) requires that at least one of the bathroom receptacle outlets is on a 20A bathroom SABC, but still allows additional receptacles to be on a 15A circuit.

  (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number
  of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at
  least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply a bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall have no other outlets.


How long can pressure-treated plywood be left wet? I built a 12'x20' shed foundation on the Oregon coast last Summer. It is 3/4" pressure-treated Doug Fir plywood over P-T framing. The plywood was very wet when purchased and installed wet like most PT woods. I still plan on installing a lino or laminate floor over the plywood once finished. I plan on erecting walls when I return in the Spring. A neighbor told me that water has now leaked under the 10 mil Visqueen cover and is puddling in places. The sheets are screwed 6" O/C in addition to construction adhesive at all framing members. Will this standing water damage the plywood very much if I don't re- wrap it before spring or am I OK?

Thanks

Once you have built the walls with plywood installed & roof completed windows cut out & entry door framed, the wet treated plywood floor will start to dry up. Purchase a moisture meter, test each treated floor sheet until the meter shows low moisture. Then install 4x8 sheets for a finish floor, particle board or 3/4 ply untreated and whatever after that. You're good to go.


Rooftop garden irrigation: Some plumbing questions I have several medium-sized planters on the roof of my building that need to be watered when I'm away. I have access to a standard garden faucet, but there is a "walkway" of sorts between the faucet and my planters. Consequently, I've been told that I should limit myself to 1/4" tubing to water my plants. There are additional constraints: The faucet is in a locked-off area, meaning that I will need a solenoid-controlled valve to turn the water OFF and ON. However, the solenoid valve must be in close proximity to my planters to avoid running wires across the walkway. The building owner is rightly concerned about clutter and hazards on the maintenance walkway.
From previous experience, I've used Rainbird hardware. My first thought was to use their 1/4" tubing to connect the faucet to the emitters in my planters. T-junctions would be used to branch off to cover all the planters (5). A DC-powered solenoid valve would be used to turn the water on & off, and a small timer circuit would control the solenoid valve. Completing this system will also require identifying the necessary adapters to interface the solenoid valve with the 1/4" irrigation tubing. From my limited knowledge, this seems to be an NPT-to-barbed adapter of some sort?
Following is an outline of my current thinking on the layout, partly based on comments & answer already received, and some unresolved questions:

25 psi pressure regulator. I estimate the total run of tubing (from faucet to the first planter) at 50-60 feet. Will 25 psi yield enough flow for all of the planters?

Faucet-to-1/4" Tube adapter... Please note that I'm not using drip tube, but the regular 1/4" distribution tubing.

12-or-24 Volt DC solenoid valve: This selection is proving a challenge as some of the valves get poor ratings, and others are quite expensive. Are there other alternatives?

Fittings/adapters for NPT-to-1/4" distribution tubing. Most valves I've seen use 1/4" NPT, which is significantly larger than 1/4" distribution tubing. I know there are NPT-to-barbed adapters, but it's not clear to me whether these will work reliably with the 1/4" distribution tubing. Any experience or suggestions with this would be helpful.

Series-or-parallel: I have 5 planters now. Should I use a series of T-junctions, or a manifold to distribute water?

All inputs are appreciated, and hopefully this will be the "final revision" to this question.

Problem is the pipe from faucet to solenoid is mains pressure. The barb and ratchet clip style connection isn't rated for that pressure.
if you can run pvc pipe for that stretch then that would be much less likely to leak.
Effectively extending the mains from the faucet to a new outlet near the garden.
The consequences of a big leak, are they very bad?


Why new 32W circular fluorescent light bulbs keeps getting blown? Recently one of my ceiling light's bulb just got blown after lasting for quite a few years. I tried to replace it with a new one and the moment I turned it on, the bulb would blink once quickly say for half a second and couldn't work any more. I went on to get another bulb and install it. The same thing happened again.

Could it be the ballast that it's linked to has spoilt? I've changed the starter for the unit but it's still the same. Thanks in advance!

It's the ballast

When old magnetic ballasts go bad, that's one of the things they do.  I swear, I'm about ready to stick a logbook inside every fixture because I think most of our bulb replacements are in the same 5 fixtures.

Decide which type of bulb you want going forward (T12 vs T8) then buy an appropriate electronic ballast.

If you want to play around with some of the new LED "tubes" or fixtures, those should last 20 years... but there is also a lot of cheap junk out there that really won't.


Is it practical to install a second water heater near my kitchen? My bathroom and my kitchen are very far apart in my house.
The original water heater is in the bathroom.
Is it practical to install a second water heater (small) near the kitchen so that it runs (the second) only when the first heater is not in use.

Water heaters already have the first element in priority to the second element with a relay control priority.
I would like to  instal a second relay on the second element of the first water heater to feed power to  the second heater.

My breaker panel is already full, it would allow me not to add another breaker. In addition, it would save me a long length of cable.

I have found that my hot water usage in the bathroom is greatest in the morning, and in the kitchen, at night.

Would this change be legal in Canada?

In the US the code requires the water heater to be a safety listed device (e.g UL listed).  Modifications of the device void the safety listing. So it would not be in compliance to do this.


How should I contain dust during a remodel? I am about to start on a remodel project that involves framing in part of the attic for a bonus room. More importantly this will also involve knocking down a few walls near the living room and kitchen in order to make room for stair. I suspect there will be a decent amount of dust created through this.

My question is, what is the best way to contain this dust? Will simply taping some plastic up be enough? If I do use plastic, how do I allow walking from the construction side to the living side? An additional bonus if easily achievable is the ability to dampen sound from one side to the other.

If you simply tape up the plastic it will fall down. It will not matter whether you use painters plastic or heavier weight stuff. Dust walls are important, more important than that is they stay up. A leak or rip in the wrong place will still let the room get clouded with dust.

I build my dust wall with 4 mil poly and 2X4s. In areas of finished floors I use poly on the floor for spills and 1/4" plywood seamed with duct tape for durability, from dropping framing material and such. If I am using plywood protection, I build the 2X wall on the edge of the plywood. To save a lot of explanation, here is a sketch.

I have added a few pics of my last job where I built this type of dust wall, the pics were to highlight details behind the drywall after it was covered, not to highlight the dust wall, although the details show a little of the idea I am trying to get across.

To evacuate the dust I plan ahead where I can set up a box fan that runs full time while demo is going on.
This fan went in where a new window was going in, it stayed after the window was set to get the drywall dust out while sanding.

For the entrance, I do not like the zippered openings that cut into the plastic, at points in time the traffic will be heavy in and out of this space, I have tripped many times going through the zippered opening. In time I have ripped it and had dust coming out, dusting the floor, Try taping over this area again, or any area once a seal has failed. If the though is being more careful, it is easy to say, but try being careful with a large heavy item in your hands walking backwards bring in a load of materials, it only takes one time. To get past this I use a double flap of poly 4' wide at the other end of the room from the fan so the air is always drawn in through the flap door into the work space. There is a walk area outside to protect when a person steps out to keep the trash coming off the shoes. This must be strictly maintained or a trail will end up going through the house.


Will double-track shelving work for a computer desk? I'd like to switch from using a computer desk to using double-track shelving.  The thing is that I'd need at least a 24" shelf for the desk part.  I see they sell those brackets on Amazon, but my computer alone is 55 lbs.  Would this solution be strong enough to support a couple monitors, a computer, a UPS, a printer, etc?

The tracks would be attached to studs with screws.  The studs are horizontal, so I'd be able to place my vertical tracks at any width.  I would be using wood shelves, or any other stronger material.

Put your computer on the floor, where it belongs. Same with the UPS. This opens up your desk space and muffles the noise.

The weight of LCD monitors and a printer won't be as much of a strain.

The strength of a shelf like this will depend a lot on how you attach it to the wall. Anchors in drywall hold a lot, but when they fail they leave an ugly hole and a big mess. Screwing directly in to a stud helps. Also, the track, the more the load appears as a vertical force, instead of a force trying pull the screw out of the wall. That's more reliable.

If you're not sure if your setup is strong enough, one way to approach the problem is to underbuild it, test it, then add on. So, you could put up a single track and load it with the full weight of the desk and equipment. If it holds, then put in the second rack, more screws, etc.


How does a shower valve get installed backwards? I have stayed in hotels on a few occasions where the shower is controlled by two knobs (hot/cold), and one of them turns backwards (clockwise for "on", counter-clockwise for "off").

Now I've moved into a new house, and the shower there also has one knob backwards.

My question is:  How is this even possible??  The valves I've seen in the hardware store come in one direction, and I've seen no way to mess them up, even if you install them upside down, turn them around, etc...

Apparently it is a relatively easy and common mistake, but I don't understand how it happens.

When I go to install shower valves myself, what should I do to avoid this mistake?

It's not "backwards" or a "mistake" at all - it's perfectly standard for dual (separate hot/cold control) faucets. In a sink deployment, you pull the outside (away from the faucet) of the handle forward to open, and push it back to close - that requires the hot and cold to close in "different directions" from a clock-wise perspective - which is perfectly natural from a "handedness" direction since the right hand works the cold faucet and the left works the hot one (in the standard arrangement.)

To avoid this standard arrangement, look for one of the minority of companies that thinks all valves should be righty-tighty and buy one of those (there are a few - they seem backward in this application to me.) Or skip the whole business and get a single-handle control.


Asbestos ceiling tiles or not? Recently I saw a documentary about asbestos and it freaked me out a little.
The reason is that in 2012 some friends and I visited an old and abandoned amusement park to do an airsoft battle.  At the time, I didn't really worry about asbestos. But after watching the documentary I rewatched my GoPro footage of that day and wondered if I came into contact with asbestos.

Following is a screenshot of some ceiling tiles that were laying over there. There are markings on the back but they are incomplete.  Could those contain asbestos?

Nope: That's modern drywall (a.k.a. gypsum board, a.k.a. Sheetrock).


Is there a term for this bolt attachment mechanism? We're installing Ikea cabinets in our kitchen.  The wall cabinets attach to a rail using a bolt-and-bolt-attachment-thingy that slides onto the rail, and the cabinets are then fastened to the bolts.  It seems pretty ingenious to me...and I'd like to duplicate the mechanism to solve a problem we're having.

What I'd like is to be able to do something very similar, but using a larger bolt, and preferably a much wider plate thing, so that I can attach the plate to the bottom of the base cabinets for threading the feet onto it (the one that came with the feet isn't long enough for our very not-level floor).  So...is there a term for this?  Is there a way to recreate this with off-the-shelf (or at least the internet's shelf) parts that don't require any machining?

your question is "what is this thing called", and I agree that T-nut is a good answer, but when you described your application, perhaps what you're looking for could be called a "leveling foot".


macerating toilet installation with 4x90 degrees I have a saniflo compact elite "temporary" or macerating toilet, and it was installed with 4x90 degree connectors on the way to the wall drain where a laundry machine once was used.
Is this ok or not ok?

This will probably work, but is not ideal.  It will put additional strain on the pump and be prone to blockages (moreso than something with no 90's).  If there is no cleanout nearby then you have another problem: getting a snake through all of these bends to clear a blockage.  Again, this is no a "showstopper" and you can still clean this out, but your job is just a bit harder than it should be (that's a general plumbing issue not related to macerating toilets specifically).
A similar question is available on the Saniflo FAQ page where they recommend against any 90 degree elbows...and you have four.  In the end, your question

Is this ok>

depends on what you mean by "ok".
Will it work?  Yes.
Will it work as well as something that was plumbed correctly?  No, you will be more prone to blockages and additional wear on the pump.


What options are available to align door's knob and lock to door frame A  rarely used exterior door mortise and tenon does not align.  Although the door closes, the doorknob's tenon does not enter its mortise. The same is true for the deadbolt. The tenons shown in the photo is low relative to the mortise.
What options are there to enable the door to lock?
I am considering a new slab door, however, I am hoping for a quicker, cost effective solution.

Easy enough to move the strike plates to algn. You may have to increase the size of the mortise with a wood chisel. Fill the old holes using toothpicks or a small dowel and wood glue. Then reset the strike plates.
It's about as cost effective as you can get.
Another option I've used is to install a hinge spacer on the bottom hinge to raise the door up slightly. You can get them at most home stores. Obviously, you need enough play around the door to accomodate the movement.


Building a wall in a rental property I live in a 1300sqft apartment that I rent, and due to the layout do not really use part of the really large living room. To address this and create a separate space, I'd like to have some sort of visual separation of about 6-7 feet wide.
I've considered buying furniture, such as shelving units or whatever. The problem with that approach is that I'd own yet MORE furniture (where I live, 99% of the rental market comes furnished and having my own furniture is a nuisance), plus I don't really have a need for any storage space.
So my thoughts now are that I want to build a wall of some sort. Tile floor to 9-ft plywood ceiling, at a 90-degree angle to an existing wall. No crown molding, but there is skirting. Building a frame and sticking drywall to it won't be a big issue. However, how do I 'attach' the wall to the existing surfaces without damaging those surfaces and still have it look tidy and like it belongs.

I'd seriously consider a Byōbu, more commonly known as a "Japanese folding screen wall". Something like this:
The first decent example picture I found happened to be from etsy
You don't have to purchase one (finding one for your 9-foot ceilings may be difficult). However the "folding" aspect - i.e. the zig-zag footprint will allow it to stand on its own.
You can cover the "panels" with drywall, fabric, paneling, or whatever suits your mood. The advantage is that you don't have to attach it to the floor or ceiling and, therefore, won't cause damage to the rental that will need to be repaired before you move out or risk losing your damage deposit.
Since you're willing to spend the money on lumber & drywall and dispose of it when you move out, there won't be any significant additional "disposable" cost in building the wall this way instead.


Connecting an exterior outlet to an interior outlet I'm trying to install an exterior outlet to an interior outlet for power. I took the interior outlet out of its box and noticed 4 wires (excluding the ground) attached to the outlet. 2 of the white wires attached to the neutral side and 2 attached to the hot side. All wires were attached into push holes and not the sides screws.

The top 2 wires I assume are the line wires and the bottom 2 the load wires. My question is once I run the exterior outlet wires to the interior outlet, where do the wires attach and how, by pigtailing? And, where do I pigtail to? The side screws to the interior outlet are still free from any wiring.

The question I would have is the box large enough to have 7 conductors and a device for wire fill calculations. I would turn the power off remove the wires from the back stabs and connect the 2 existing blacks with the new black and a short pig tail to the inside outlet. once that is done I would do the same to the Hot side making sure to keep the polarity correct to the outlet. Tie the ground for the new outlet to the existing grounds. With that done install a GFCI outlet outside with a "in use" or extra duty cover and it would be fine. Make sure to use the same gauge wire to the new outlet (you can use larger but that affects the box fill calculations. With 14 awg wire 18 cu inch box would be needed (if plastic no clamps +2 if it has clamps) for 12 awg wire 20.25 cu inch box would be needed if no clamps (+2.25 for clamps).


what causes the red light to continue blinking even resetting my gfci outlet what causes the red light to blink, after resetting the GFCI outlet?  is it faulty, I can't seem to get it to stay green.  help

Why would a GFI blink red

Red Status

Blinking = Initial self-test upon first power up
Solid or blinking = Press TEST and RESET buttons to reset GFCI
If GFCI will not reset OR solid or blinking red continues, replace device


How does one put a horizontal drain (ABS. 1 1/2") pipe in a wall that is already in place? With studs at 16" apart it is impossible to squeeze in one long segment from one end of the wall to the other (in my case a drain or a dry vent)
In the below picture I am talking about the horizontal green segments
How do i install the drain and vent runs in this wall?

Get a bigger hammer (and use a wood block to protect the end of the pipe). Large pipe (3", or maybe even 2") would not slide into there but 1-1/2" should.
Make sure the first hole particularly is drilled generously oversized so the pipe won't bind in the hole while you're forcing it in. It may even help to drill that first hole slightly off perpendicular, angled toward the surface of the wall in the direction the pipe will be inserted.
If you're trying to start the pipe going through that stack of three wall studs that could make life miserable. Insert the horizontal pipes from the right instead if that's an option, or from a couple studs back to the left. It's OK to drill holes in other studs so the pipe can be inserted at an easier location even though the pipe won't forever occupy the extra holes.
If all else fails, cut the pipe into sections small enough to be inserted and use couplers to re-join the pieces.


Wire for 100 AMP Detached Garage Subpanel. 50 feet direct buried 50 feet in crawl space My plan is to run 240 volt 100 AMP power to detached garage. I have 200 AMP Panel in basement of house. Main question is wiring for the run. 50 feet of the run will be in house crawl space/basement. 50 feet will need to be buried 24" in ground. Can I run direct buried cable for the whole distance if so what size wire? Or should I install PVC conduit and pull individual wires and if so what size wire to pull?  I would prefer aluminium wire for the cost savings.

Additional Details.

Main House Panel is a Siemens/ITE Load Center G4040MB1200.
Plan is to add a Q2100 100-Amp Double Pole Type QP Circuit Breaker to Main Panel.
House is all electric, 2 Heat Pumps, 1 Electic hot water heater, electric dryer and electric stove.
Main panel is full so plan to add 2 double stuff breakers to make room for the 100 AMP Breaker in Main panel.
Garage is 28x40.

Will be installing 30AMP rv plug for occassional use of RV AC for guests.
Will be installing Window AC unit in garage 20AMP circuit and a couple 20 amp circuits for power tools, and a couple 15 amp circuits for lights.

Overflowing...

Your existing panel is listed and labeled as a Circuit Total Limiting panelboard, which means that it can only use double-stuff/tandem breakers in spaces that are marked and designed to accept such.  However, the label on your panel designates no spaces as usable with tandem breakers, only standard breaker poles, rendering your panel-stuffing plans a violation of the panel's listing, and thus of NEC 110.3.  Furthermore, space 34 already has a tandem breaker in it, which means that your panel is overflowing right now!

This means that you'll need to change out your main panel for a 42-space, 225A, main breaker loadcenter, at minimum, in order to do this; a 54- or 60-space panel such as the Siemens P5470B1225CU would be my recommendation, even, given that you already are up to 43 spaces' worth of breakers and how useless double-stuff breakers are in this day and age.  The reason for the 225A panel (vs. 200A) is explained below, by the way.

and Overloaded

Applying NEC 220.83 to your current situation, consisting of:

3500 ft2 at 3VA/ft2
5 kitchen SABCs and a laundry SABC at 1500VA apiece
3 more 1500VA allowances for fixed kitchen appliances
a 12kVA range allowance
a 5kVA dryer allowance
and a 4.5kVA water heater
and your HVAC system consisting of 38.3A of heat pump outdoor unit as well as 111.9A of strip heat

puts you at 45500VA of non-HVAC load, taken at a 40% demand factor over 8kVA for 23000VA of factored non-HVAC load.  To this, we add the 38.3A (16.9 + 21.4) of heat pump outdoor unit draw at full rating and the 111.9A (26.3A + 29.2A + 2.5A from one unit, and 53.9A from the other) of heat pump indoor unit draw at a 65% demand factor to get 8809+16729 = 25538VA of HVAC load at a 230V utilization voltage.  Adding those two together and dividing by the 240V service voltage gets us a total load of 48538VA, or 202A, which is actually slightly more load than what your 200A service can handle already!

This forces us to bump the service to 225A to have enough headroom for the new garage. This requires a pigtail of 250kcmil Al to be added at each end of the existing service-entrance wiring (connected using Al9Cu Polaris connectors) to allow the existing wiring to run at 90°C and thus have sufficient ampacity for a 225A service, as well as a 225A panel, such as the one proposed above.

Wedging the garage in there

Now we can move onto the garage, which consists of:

a 28'*40', or 1120ft2, space at 3VA/ft2
2 1500VA allowances for power tools
and a 9.6A/230VAC (representative 20kBTU, 10.4EER air conditioner from here)
OR a 30A/120V TT-30 receptacle supplying a RV, treated as a single 3600VA RV site as per 551.73(A) and the associated demand factor table

By itself, the garage draws 8568VA, or 35.7A at 240V.  However, we can apply the 40% demand factor from 220.83 to the receptacle loads in the garage, meaning that the garage only adds 4752VA, or 19.8A at 240V, to the service load.  (The RV receptacle, which would otherwise put you over even with the bump to 225A, is being treated as a non-coincident load with the rest of the garage loads as permitted by NEC 220.60 given that I doubt you'll be working on stuff in the garage while you have guests over at your house :)

...and getting it hooked up

Once the panel is replaced, getting the garage hooked up is the easy half of the enterprise.  I would use 1.5" schedule 80 PVC for the entire run; in the basement/crawlspace, you can strap it to the bottom of the joists with an expansion joint in-line with the run to keep it from doing the worm on you, and then just transition it directly to the outside run with a pair of 45° sweeps to bring it down to burial depth (24" is fine) and 90° sweeps at each end to bring it into the panels.  Inside this conduit, you'll be running 3 1AWG Al XHHW-2 conductors along with an 8AWG bare copper ground; this takes up nowhere near the fill space availabe in the conduit at 270mm2 used vs. 442mm2 available while providing a fully rated 100A feeder to the garage.

At the house end, a Q2100 is indeed the correct breaker choice for the job provided that the replacement house panel is Siemens as well, while I would in fact take the old 200A panel that got obsoleted by the house panel upgrade and put it in the garage; the main breaker is needed to serve as a local shutoff for power to the garage (and nothing more), while 40 spaces should be more than enough for even the most extravagant garage plans.  If you wish to buy a new panel for the garage, the minimum I would get is a 100 or 125A, main breaker, 24-space panel, with a larger panel than the minimum highly recommended.

In it, you'll want 2 15A breakers for lights (and only lights), 2 20A GFCI breakers for receptacles (possibly combined as a 20A multi-wire branch circuit using a 20A 2-pole GFCI breaker to allow for 240V power tools), a 15A or 20A 2-pole breaker for the AC (depending on your AC) using a single NEMA 6-15R or 6-20R at the load, and a 30A breaker for the TT-30 RV receptacle.

Of course, when making all these connections, you'll need to use an inch-pound torque wrench and/or torque screwdriver in order to meet the tightening torque requirements of 2017 NEC 110.14(D).  Even if your AHJ has not adopted the 2017 NEC, you'll want to do this anyway, lest your electrical system lose you the race!


Help identifying shower valve I'm hoping someone might be able to help me identify the brand of my shower valve... I can't seem to find any identifying marks on either the handle, trim or valve itself. Here's a few photos:

This is, without a doubt, a Moen brand valve. There are numerous trim options available in many finishes. You need to go to a good specialty plumbing shop, they will have some Moen trim items in stock and should be able to order many more items.

Bring your pictures and all old trim with you.


What is a good uPVC window or wooden double glazed replacement window solution? I am looking at replacing old sash windows with uPVC windows. Is this a good idea for a four-bedroom house?

Some say sash windows have advantages, but most say go with uPVC. Perhaps a wooden double glazed replacement is the answer. Anyhow, I hope someone can shed light.

Thanks, being in Leicester means I dont see that much inspiring me outside of the grove where I live. anyway, I found these ones for the benefit of others in the area. Having spoken to a rep, and getting thumbs up from a friend, think I will remove the sashes myself, and then get these guys to do the uPVC. Hope I can get it done by summer.

http://www.doubleglazingleicestershire.com/windows-leicestershire.html

Windows are very religious and debate inspiring. Identifying top goals will help in selection and maximizing ROI.

FWIW: uPVC and vinyl are synonyms in North America.

Energy Efficiency

Maximizing u-factor depends on the heating/cooling zone you are in.  .35 might be good for a northern climate, while overkill for a southern one
SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) is more important in a southern area.
Air Leakage
Condensation reisitance

Intangibles

Durablity factors are hard to estimate accurately, but price is usually some indication of quality
Fit and finish  Construction materials used have an effect on
appearance as well as durability.  Maintenance requirements and paint-ability  are factors
Resale issues


Splitting a circuit breaker into multiple lines I recently found out that several rooms in my house are apparently connected to one circuit breaker.

Setup:
My wife was in the bathroom drying her hair and I decided it was time to nuke lunch in the microwave. Took only a few seconds and a good portion of the upper floor went dark. After fumbling with a few breakers I discovered that the entire kitchen, bathroom and most of my living room are all on one circuit. This concerned me since several devices (microwave, oven, fridge, dishwasher, TV, hairdryer, curling iron, a few light fixtures and other misc items) are all on one circuit.

Question:
So my question is ... how difficult is it to trace back and split the circuit into two breakers. Is this something that typically requires an electrician? and how do I go about identifying the main trunk from the upper floor that leads down to the breaker box. I'm familiar enough with electrical work to install new outlets, devices, wire up switches and lighting fixtures. Is this type of fix out of the "average DIY" league?

This seems to be relatively common especially with older homes.

If your basement is not finished then this might not be that large of a job.  If the basement is finished it makes this a lot harder and you will definitely be making holes in walls/ceilings.

The first thing you need to figure out is what exactly you are going to split. Most locations requires dedicated 20amp circuits to each recepticle in the kitchen, so instead of trying to break up a number of other circuits, it'd probably be easiest just to run new dedicated circuits for the kitchen. You do need to be aware that it is not always permissible to have multiple circuits running in the same electrical box, so you could probably make it even easier by running brand new outlets instead of trying to change existing ones.

Installing a new breaker and outlet is not that difficult, but safety always comes to mind with electrical, so if you are not sure you could opt to have an electrician do the whole thing, or if you just want peice of mind, you could get them to inspect your work upon completion.

As always, make sure to turn the power off when working in your electrical panel.  I know a lot of people will pop in breakers with the power on, but I prefer to have my hands nowhere near live electricity.

Good luck!


One outlet in kitchen My new rental home has a small kitchen. It also only has one outlet that is inconveniently placed half way up the wall above open air.
I have a kitchen sink that has a little bit of counter space on each side and that's the only counter space available.
The outlet resides about 1.5-2 feet from the counter space.
I currently have an extension cord running from one room over so I can plus my.microwave in. But I have an 8-month old who is on the go and it's not exactly baby proof.
I'm curious if there is any battery powered devices I can use to plug in my toaster, Keurig, microwave etc.
Any ideas??

The problem is that toaster, Keurig, microwave are all high power devices. They may only need power for a few minutes at a time, but when they do need power, it is in the several hundred watt range. Battery power (short of Tesla PowerWall) won't do you much good.
This is actually why code calls for a minimum of 2 countertop circuits in a kitchen. But many older kitchens (including mine before renovation) simply don't have that - they often have just 1 circuit, sometimes shared with other rooms.
You have learned why extension cords are not a good idea for long-term usage. The only really good fix is to get additional circuits run to the kitchen. Since this is a rental, in most places this needs to be done professionally. Not DIY, not by your landlord, but by you (with landlord's permission) or your landlord hiring a licensed electrician.
Contact your landlord. If they won't help - perhaps claiming (often correctly, but not always) that the kitchen is OK because it is grandfathered under older code. The catch is that pushing harder on the code issue (e.g., almost certainly applies if the kitchen was built or renovated in the last 30 years) may result in your landlord finding an excuse (often not hard to do) to kick you out, or to drag things on for a while until renewal time and then simply not renew your lease. It gets even trickier if it this is an unofficial rental. So things can get tricky and beyond a simple request you may not want to pursue it.
The next best thing is to use an extension cord that never goes down to the floor and that is of the correct size - minimum 14 AWG for a 15A circuit, minimum 12 AWG for a 20A circuit. I would use a short cord (probably 3 - 8 feet long). Finding such a cord may be non-trivial - in a quick search, the short 12 AWG cords all have 5-20 connectors - i.e., designed for 20A receptacles and devices. But you could have 15A receptacles (legally) on a 20A circuit, and most of your devices will be 15A devices. So it gets complicated to do this in a reasonably safe way.
The temptation is to use a multiple-outlet strip like commonly used for computers. They are inexpensive and easy to find. The problem is that these outlet strips, even when reasonable quality, are designed for relatively low power usage. In fact, using them for microwave ovens and toasters can actually damage them because they are often designed for much smaller loads.


Can I use a 3-wire+ground to serve a 240v and a 120v circuit? When I remodeled my home, in anticipation of replacing an old gas water heater with a new electric heater, I had a 10/3 cable run to the basement utility room. Now the heater has been delivered I discover it only needs 10/2 (black, red & ground), 30 amp. A side problem is that there's no light or outlet in the room. Could I use the redundant wire to supply lights and an outlet on another breaker? As I see it, it would involve using the ground wire as the neutral for both circuits.

Not in this case, because you can't put lights or outlets on a 30A circuit.
Note that also, you can't have receptacles on a circuit where more than 50% of ampacity is needed for hardwired loads.
So it could happen if, say, the numbers worked out (20A circuit, 240V/7A mini-split, then yeah, you could use both legs for 120V stuff).

Honestly, the 10/3 cable was a blunder.  Water heaters don't need 3-wire feeds.   You could, I suppose, fit a subpanel there, with a 30A breaker for water heater and a 15/20A outlet for lights -- however, you'd have to do a load calculation for outlets, because a water heater uses most of the feeder ampacity.
But for a subpanel feeder, for the same price as 10/3, you can get 2-2-2-4 Al feeder which is good for 90 amps instead of 30.


How to remove/clean black mold? What is the best way to remove black mold from wood?

Specifically, the mold on my back porch is black mold. Is the best option to use something like Kilz over it?

This is a problem best suited to the professionals, but if you must do it yourself the number one priority is the safety of you and those around you.  This can be a very hazardous task, if you do not take every precaution to contain and remove the spores properly.

The first thing you'll have to think about is containment, you don't want to spread the mold spores while you clean the area.  You'll want to seal off the area (under negative pressure) with plastic sheeting, making sure all seams are properly sealed.

Once the area is sealed off, you'll need the appropriate clothing.

Respirator
Tyvek suit (or other clothing that covers your whole body).
Rubber gloves.
Goggles.

Now it's time to start cleaning. Before you begin make sure the infected area is damp, this will minimize the chances the spores will become airborne. You'll start by scrubbing the affected area with a Borax-water mix (1cup Borax/1 gallon water) using a scrub brush, to remove as much of the mold as possible. Wipe up any excess mess with rags, and dispose of them in a thick plastic bag (Contractor bag). Rinse the area with a small amount of the Borax solution, then let it dry completely.  Once dry you'll want to pour a small amount of disinfectant (Isopropyl Alcohol), and allow that to dry as well.

Now that the mold has been removed, you can paint the affected area with Kilz if you like. The most important step at this point is to address the moisture problem in the area, or it's likely the infestation will return. You'll want to do what you can to make sure there is no standing water in the area, and that any moisture drains away and dries quickly.


How do I differentiate between ground and neutral in black-white-red wiring? I'm hooking up a dishwasher and failed to check wiring before I removed the old one.

Black - Red = 120v
Black - White = 120v
Red - White = 0v.

So obviously Red and white are Neutral and Ground.
How can I tell?  If the Red were Green or Bare, I wouldn't worry, but seeing as the original installer used the wrong wire, I need to question everything.

Is there a simple way of telling the two apart? Keep in mind that I'm in Canada, where the code does not allow grounding to Neutral.

-- Resolved.  I ended up tracing back to the panel, Opening the panel and seeing that Red went into the rat's nest of bare copper.  So, IN THIS CASE ONLY, Red was ground.

However, this leads us to the greater problem of Contractors using non-standard parts because they happen to be laying around.  If I couldn't get to the panel, how could I determine the difference.  I was think that a continuity check between a known ground and (test)neutral should be open, and known ground to test ground should be closed.  Is that a correct assumption?

Can you trace the cable back to the service panel or to another outlet (if there is another one on that circuit) and do a visual inspection of the wires?

Failing that, you could temporarily wire in a GFCI, guessing at which wire should be neutral and which ground.  Plug in an appliance, turn it on, and if the GFCI trips, you got ground and neutral the wrong way around.


How can I independently control a light and fan, where only a single hot wire is used? The apartment I live in was built with a ceiling fan installed, but the landlord replaced the fan with a model that has a light built in.

He's put a controller in the ceiling that has fan and light functionality, but I suspect it's burnt out because of the dimmable fan controller in the wall.

What's my best course of action?  I suspect there's only one wire going from the switch to the ceiling, and I'd prefer not to replace the fan.

My preference would be some sort of light/fan controller switch, but I'd be surprised if I can get away with that on a single wire.

You could (spend money) replace the controller and the switch. Or remove the controller and just wire everything to the fan switch (free). Either way, if the wire is in conduit and you have to pull the fan down, just run another wire.


How to install/connect Miniature Circuit Breakers ( MCB ) What's the best way to connect the Miniature Circuit Breakers ?

Is it when the Line is coming downward or upwards ? I am confused as I have seen two different wiring's.

I want to know where I should connect an incoming and outgoing supply ?

The MCB can be MOUNTED in either direction, but the wiring LINE IN side is always the end toward which the handle points when the breaker is ON.

That doesn't mean people do it correctly every time, and it will technically function if wired the other way (referred to as "back feeding"), but there are potential safety issues with back feeding.


How close (vertically) can I safely relocate a lag screw in a stud? I'm mounting a pull-up bar (see image below) by means of 3/8" lag screws in wooden studs. I messed up one of the top holes (missed the center of the stud - the bolt went in partially & then veered off to the side significantly).  I'd like to re-mount the bar as close to its original vertical position as possible. What's the nearest vertical distance from the previous lag bolt holes that would be safe to put new ones?  It's a load-bearing (exterior) wall, and the bar extends out 33" from the wall, so it will have significant pull-out force.

(If I move the bar up significantly higher, it will be difficult to reach for the shorter people in the house; if I move it significantly lower, my feet will hit the ground. Thus, as close to its previous location as possible - without compromising the integrity of the stud - would be ideal).

It really depends on your technique. The stud doesn't care. Plenty of them have knots bigger. If you can leave even half the hole diameter between the new and old holes it'll be virtually as strong as otherwise.

Mount the bracket using other holes, then drill the new hole. The steel will prevent your bit from dropping into the original hole.

Of course, you can epoxy a dowel (even hand-carved from scrap) into the hole and start over at any location.


Can using two hoses deliver more water? I'm filling a pool, and looking to speed up the process.  I have two hose bibs, and wonder if I'm really gaining anything (and how much) by using both?

The house is supplied by a 3/4" line. This tees into two 1/2" lines, one going to each hose bib.

I'm thinking that with one hose, I'll get the volume provided by a 1/2" pipe. Adding the second hose will not double the flow, but should only make it as if a single hose was fed by a 3/4" pipe.

Is my intuition correct?

I would expect more water to flow unless you have extremely low water pressure. You have a 3/4" line and all the water pressure of either a municipal water system or a water pump. Splitting that into two lines will not likely double the flow rate as there is a pressure drop, but it should increase the total flow rate considerably. I would expect it to almost double, but not quite.

This would be easy to test with an empty bucket. Time how long it takes to fill the bucket with one hose on and then with both.


How to connect switch to electric box containing 3 grey (twin and earth) cables? The circuit breaker belonging to kitchen tripped today and I narrowed the problem down to faulty switch controlling my fridge.
I immediately removed the switch but I forgot to take picture of previous connection.
Please can someone help me with connecting new switch?

Looks like a standard UK ring circuit.  The chances are that the top two are two sides of the ring, and the bottom one is to the fridge.  It should be obvious if the fridge outlet is immediately below the switch.
So the two top reds go to the "in" L side of the switch.  The top two blacks go to the "in" N side of the switch.  The bottom red goes to the "out" L, the bottom black goes to the "out" N, and all the earths go to an earth terminal.


How safe is it to use old air compressor? I have air compressor 91915294 craftsman. I want to use it for spray painting. I bought it use and not sure how old it is. You can see on photos that it has a corrosion but i tried to sand it a bit and it looks like it has good metal under it.

Is there a way how to check how safe it is? and what are the chances it blows up?
Any recommendations of safe usage of it?

That exterior rust does not look deep or concerning to me. I would try to repaint it to keep it from spreading, but I wouldn't think it to be a safety hazard.
The interior is my bigger concern. I would unscrew that plug on the bottom and look to see how rusty the interior is.


How can I remove chalk line stain and clean concrete residue? I hired a cut rate concrete contractor to redo my driveway because all the bigger firms were too busy. He did a decent job, but he did a couple things that I now need to fix since the chances of seeing him again are about zero.

First, he used red chalk line to mark his cuts on the slab-- it rained the next day and now I have red stains all over my driveway. I tried scrubbing with simple green and using a power washer, but the stains are still there. Is there any way to clean this?

Second, he was just plain sloppy when pouring the cement, and splashed the mud on the aluminum siding of my garage. How can I remove the cement from the aluminum siding without scratching it up or needing to repaint it?

Finally, he and left small rough areas on the already screeded slab where his "helper" walked on it and didn't re-screed. Can I use a sanding disk to sand down the rough areas on the slab?

Mix CLR and water and apply to the chalk line.  Brush with a stiff brush, wipe up the residue, and rinse.  Works perfectly every time, for me at least.


Top Loading Washer Leaks from bottom of machine.. Usually Worth Repairing, or Time to Upgrade? I have an old whirlpool top loading LA8800 (Maytag rebranding?) washer that leaks from the bottom..  is this usually a simple (and cheap) gasket type repair, or would now be a good time to get a more energy (water?) efficient front loading type?

Also, anyone know what the capacity is of my Whirlpool LA8800?  I can't seem to find any specs on it, my current washer!)

I'd say replace it no matter what, unless you're living alone or low on funds.

For a typical household, a front-loading washer will save $10-15 each month, so a new washer would pay itself off in 5-8 years.


Fluorescent lamp issues We have a couple of old fluorescent fixtures in our basement, each holding four 4-ft long T12 bulbs. After several weeks of slow starts, the lights finally stopped coming on in one of them so while we eventually will replace the fixtures with LED ones, I went ahead in the interim and purchased four new bulbs. I put two of the new bulbs in the two adjacent slots on one side of the fixture, thinking that it needed both bulbs to be in at the same time. When I turned the fixture on, one of the bulbs looked like it was trying to light up, the other did nothing. So I concluded it was the fixture and removed the new bulbs.
Now I am wondering if I was too hasty in that decision: Is it possible that all four bulbs have to be in place for them to light up or maybe the two inner ones or the two outer ones have to be in place, instead of the two on one side as I tried. Is there some standard in what these fixtures expect?

These fixtures are usually wired so that the (2) outside bulbs and the (2) inside bulbs are wired together. Yes both bulbs need to be inserted in the sockets to light-up. Also the 4 foot bulbs with (2) terminal pins need to be turned so that they lock in place and contact the terminals carrying the voltage. Usually a 1/4 turn or until resistance to turning is felt.


How to clean a ceiling fan with retractable fan blades? I bought a few ceiling fans with retractable fan blades. After using for a few months, there is a thick layer of dusk underneath the blades at the kink. I saw a video suggesting two persons to do the job. One to extend the blades and hold on to it while the other wiping it down with a damp cloth. Is there an easier way the get the job done with just one person only and without dismantling the fan?

You could use a couple of spring loaded clamps to hold the fan blades out while you wipe them down. Just be careful that they don’t apply so much force that they break the plastic.

A manual can be found here. Unfortunately it only suggests a soft brush and no water. Nothing about extending the blades.


p-trap installation by newbie: cement cure time I was installing a new p-trap under the kitchen sink:

Attached tailpiece to the sink no problem. Then I prepared a short piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe, put a plumbing cement on it, inserted one end to the  curvy end of the p-trap and the other end (also with cement on it) plugged in to ABS 1 1/2" adapter (the other end has threads and slip nut, it is put on drain pipe).
So all pieces fit each other well, and I put everything on, opened water to test for leaks for a couple of minutes. At that moment I realized that the cement has to cure long enough before water flows in! I shut it off, and left for 1-2 hours.
Now I'm wondering if all the cement I put on fittings is damaged and has no use. Should I redo my work once again, and give enough time to cure cement?
Thanks.

It's probably fine. ABS cement hardens in seconds -- probably in less than 20 seconds the joint would be locked up enough that it would not be easily moved by hand.
A joint won't be cured enough to withstand any meaningful amount of water pressure that fast -- a plumber would probably get an unhappy surprise if he cemented test plugs or fittings into place and immediately proceeded to fill a 20-30 foot tall column of water to test a new home's multi-story drain system.
In your case though the pressure would not have exceeded about 1 inch water column. If it didn't leak in your first test, go ahead and test it again. If it continues to not leak that's a good sign that it worked out well enough.


Installing Sub-Panel in Detached Garage Seeking some advice on installing a sub panel in a detached garage.  I have a 200amp main in my house and I plan on installing a 90 amp sub-panel in a detached garage approx. 100FT away from the main panel.

In order to avoid having to run a conduit in the house, I am planning on running 2-2-2-4 SER Aluminum cable from the main panel through a crawlspace into a metal junction box, then transition over to MHF. The MHF wire will run from that junction box through a rigid conduit buried 6” underground directly into the garage panel.  Using Rigid over PVC due to the rocky soil making it difficult to dig 18” deep. I plan on installing a grounding rod next the garage which will ground the sub panel. Can I run the wire in this manner or does the rigid conduit need to be bonded back to he main panel?

Would I be better off running MHF the entire way and running it through EMT within the house from the main and transitioning to the Rigid conduit for the underground?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

You'll need minimum 1-1/2" rigid for MHF cable.  That means 8" burial depth to give 6" cover.  12” cover under vehicle drives.

THWN or XHHW wires are a much better choice. It would allow 1-1/4 conduit and other wires in the conduit.  Cable in conduit is silly as it makes for a very hard pull.  The only reason to do it is if you wanted to transition from conduit to in-house wiring without any splices.

A wired ground, or Rigid as the ground, is fine.  You need grounding rods also.

Remember at #2 wire size the splice  box must be quite big.