Can I attach floating shelves to the wall in this way? I'm going to be putting up some floating shelving. They are about 4" deep and 24" in length and the wood is 1" walnut. In order to hide hardware I was going to get 6 inch bolts (1/2 inch diameter).  The bolt would go about 3 inches into the wall. The remaining 3" would be used to support the shelf. I would drill holes a bit larger than 1/2" in the wood.

Two questions:

Does this sound feasible?
If I get lag bolts, is it possible to cut
the head off? What would be the best way to do that?

Yes - It does sound feasible. A few things I would consider for cutting off the lag bolt heads.

Install the bolts first into the wall studs so you can utilize the heads for screwing in the bolts. Do not make the common mistake of forgetting to pre-drill a proper sized pilot hole for the lag bolt threads into the stud.
Use a reciprocating type saw (i.e. Sawzall) with a high quality metal cutting blade to cut the bolt heads off.
Dress up the cut bolt stubs to eliminate the sharp edges by using a Dremel type tool with a small grinder stone.
Only now mark the shelf pieces for the proper hole locations and drill your holes into the shelves.

Additional considerations -- --

A 4 x 24 inch shelf cannot get too much stuff on it. You may consider using a smaller size than 1/2 inch bolt and achieve a suitable result. A 1/2 inch lag into the edge of a stud has to be very carefully centered on the stud.
Consider safety factors regarding shelves that can simply pull off the wall mounted studs. You may want to consider the possibility of some type of set screw in from the top or bottom side of the shelf that would help clamp the shelf to the bolt studs. (You could of course glue the shelves to the bolt studs with construction adhesive but then the installation would be virtually permanent).


Breaker Tripping - Need advice on upgrade I am in the processes of consolidating all of my home audio / networking equipment into a server rack I picked up recently. This will give me some flexibility of keeping it all together and make repairs / upgrades easier.

In this process, I have had to reset my 15amp breaker twice now (it tripped) due to the load the equipment is putting on it I am assuming.

These devices range from a home audio controller, amp, sub amps, Backup Power Supply, PC, etc.

Some rough numbers I came up with:

Switch 2.5 amp
Sub .118 amp x 4 = .472 amp
Amp 8.36 amp
PSU 2.72 amp
Total 14.052 amp

With just those few devices, I seem to be at 93% of the suggested 80% load.

While I am not quite done getting everything moved into the rack, its already pretty clear that I will need to run some dedicated circuits for this rack.

What recommendations would you have for this? Should I run two 15amp circuits just for this equipment and put the audio stuff on one and lower stuff on the other?

I will probably end up getting an electrician out to do it but wanting to get some feedback to know what to ask for.

Update:

This is everything I could find on this current circuit that had some type of power rating label:

Device  Power

Switch  100-240 v  2.5 amp
Sub Amp 120v  13w consumption
Sub Amp 120v  13w consumption
Sub Amp 120v  13w consumption
Controller  120v 70w consumption
Amp 120v 920w consumption
NVR 100v-240v
PSU 300 watts
Fan 110v
Fan 110v
Fan 110v
Fan 110v
Dell Tower  3.3 amp
Apple Airplay Express   0.2 amp
Modem   .75 amp
Router  2.5 amp
POE Injector    2.5 amp
Cat Switch  1.5 amp
Monitor 1.2 amp
Monitor 1.2 amp
Monitor 1.2 amp
Monitor .7a
TV  83 w consumption
Gramofon    1amp
Henge Dock (MacBook Pro)    127W 100-240V Power Supply
Scentsy Candle Warmer   25 watts
Digital Radio
Alarm System Panel
Lights
Outlets

I would suggest the high-end audio be on a separate circuit than power supplies. I would run 2 20 amp circuits to this location. By separating the audio equipment from the power supplys you may avoid some electrical noise caused by harmonics that most powersupplys generate. Just my 2cents worth...


how to patch minor leaks at cast iron sewer pipe's joint please see attached image, I am not sure whether it's a leak where the metal is split, or whether its corrosion where the liquid seeps through the metal.  I am looking to patch this, somehow, can someone suggest how I should go about doing that?  I would like to keep the current pipe.

At the risk of stating the obvious, the leak/wetness is found at the dark area surrounded by white coloration near the joint.

pic1
pic2

Thanks in advance!

There is no such thing as a "minor" leak in cast iron. If it is leaking, it means major corrosion is occurring. If you were to open the joint and look in, you would see the inside of the pipe is completely rotted.

You could put a liner inside the pipe and pump it full of some kind of sealant, but it would be a lot of work to do that and it would be temporary fix because the rot would continue at the interface between the liner and the pipe.

The correct way to do it is to first remove the short, corroded cast iron piece and then grind/chisel/sand the larger flanged opening. You need at least 1.5 inches depth of clean, smooth cast iron. Then you put in the PVC pipe and caulk it, which means stuff it with oakum and melted lead. You have to have at least 1" depth of lead all around the joint. Doing this requires a plumber who is experienced with caulking. It requires special tools called "caulking irons". You may find some plumbers who recommend using a "donut" adapter. Don't do it. Those cheapo things are worthless garbage used by hack plumbers. If your plumber even mentions the word "donut", fire him and get a plumber who is not a moron. Caulking is the way to go. These are pictures of what it should look like when done:

By the way, that rubber adapter with hose clamps you have on there is a complete POS typical of the worst sort of hack plumber trying to finish a job in 5 minutes. You should get rid of that thing when you do the repair and replace it with proper, solid PVC joints.


I'd like to build my own garage Olympic lifting platform, but can it support a car? I have a converted carport to garage, with an unfinished but smooth concrete surface.  I'm slowly building up my home gym, and I'm interested in options as far as flooring goes. I'd like to build a lifting platform, not unlike these:

Chris Duffin's Platforms

The challenge here lies in when I park the car-I'd have to run over the platform.  My car would undoubtedly damage any normal platform.  I could just make portable ones easily, but I'd like to entertain 'finished', permanent options.

I have a couple ideas:

Construct a metal frame that houses three different sections of material that can be removed or repaired easily.  Before pulling my car in, I could remove and store the platform sections.
Create a strong 'cover', that the car drives over.  When I pull my car out to train, I would remove the cover, revealing an in-ground platform.  In ground platforms look like this: Flush Platform

Thoughts?

Just build the platform as Chris Duffin did, make sure it is low enough so your auto's undercarriage will clear, and leave a couple channels/slots for your auto to pass through. You could make hinged lids that fold back down when the car is gone, giving you a continuous level platform surface. Keep it simple.


Kenmore: freezer working, refrigerator not due to frozen air return...replacement needed? I have a Kenmore Coldspot (model 106.57022601) side-by-side refrigerator.  About a couple of years ago, we had a problem with the freezer working great, but the refrigerator not working.  We called a great repairman who found that due to a faulty thermostat/heater, our evaporator coils were frozen, which blocked airflow into the fridge.  He fixed it, and everything went back to normal.

This happened again about a week ago...when I put my hand up to the inbound airflow duct (which blows cold air into the fridge from the freezer) and felt no air movement, I suspected a similar problem.  We couldn't find our former repairman, so we wound up going with a new one (big mistake, but that's another story).  Anyway, to his surprise and ours, the evaporator coils were actually fine:  they weren't frozen, and there was no ice-buildup.  After hemming and hawing for a while, the only thing he found was that the lower, return-airflow duct (from the fridge back to the freezer) was frozen up with ice.  He used a hairdryer to thaw it out and, after also cleaning our condenser coils at the bottom of the refrigerator, started things back up.

Things now seem to be working normally...there is cool airflow coming from the inbound duct again, and the fridge is cool.  However, now my family is suspicious and are pushing the idea of a new refrigerator.  From my research, I found that frozen return-airflow ducts typically result from faulty door seals (I used my hand to check...we don't seem to have that) or possibly from folks not shutting the door properly (which has happened on occasion).  Now I'm wondering:  is there anything else I've missed that could have caused this?  More importantly:  is this a symptom indicating that our refrigerator needs to be replaced soon, or do we just need to be a bit more careful with our fridge doors and replacement is something I can wait on?  I deeply appreciate your input...THANKS!

In my experience, "frost free" refrigerators frequently benefit from an occasional through (manual with carefully applied gentle heat, or "move all the food somewhere else and leave open for 24-48 hours") defrosting. I've honestly had far less problems with problematic frost build up in "manual defrost" refrigerators, (which normally have separate cooling coils for the freezer and fridge rather than air ducts that bring moist fridge air into the freezer to make frost) but you can hardly find one of those new these days.

Anyway, I'd suspect that you are correct, and the door got left open a bit. Or leaks a bit.

I don't know what you mean by "checking the door seals with your hand" - the "standard" test I know is to use paper (typically paper money) closed in the door and make sure there is resistance to pulling it out all the way around.


Why do the screws on my fence snap after install? I have installed a wooden fence in my yard using outdoor use decking screws. I've noticed that some of the screws in the boards I've installed last year are starting to snap in half and I'm having to replace them. Is there a reason why this is happening? Or is this just to be expected routine maintenance?

Fence boards tend to warp due to extreme sun exposure and changes in moisture levels. This puts a substantial strain on fasteners. If you did not purchase high-quality screws, this would explain the problem. Low-quality fasteners use weak metal alloys and have much less strength than better screws, which would pull through the wood before they'd break.

You can add new screws as needed or pull and replace them with better screws all one at a time (to avoid having to reposition boards).


How can I repeatedly cut the same pattern using a router? I'm involved with a project where I need to use a router (or some other tool?) to carve a specific-sized square in the top of a desk. This square will not go all the way through the desk; rather, it will only go .5" deep into the desk's surface.

I am currently using a router, but I need to do this for several desks and the square should be identical on each desk. What are my options for such precision routing? Is there a more industrial, time-saving, more-precise tool I can rent / buy instead of a hand-held router?

I'd make a template in the shape of a square donut out of 1/2" plywood by using a table saw to cut out the square hole in the 1/2" plywood.  For example, if ...

i) the recess in the desktop needs to be 8"x12"

ii) the diameter of the base of the router is 6"

iii) the diameter of the router bit is 1/2"

... then I'd ...

1) start with a rectangular piece of plywood that measures 24"x28"

2) set the rip fence on the table saw to 5.25"

3) plunge cut on the table saw (advanced technique) along all four edges, but not all the way to the corners so as to leave the cutout solidly attached to the donut at all four corners.

4) make the final cuts in the corners with a jigsaw or handsaw or ...

At this point I ought to have a square donut template of the proper size.  If the router is not high-end, then I'd mark a spot on the top of the router's base that I'd always keep rubbing against the template (this is important for precision work).

To route out the recess in the desktop, I'd secure the plywood template to the desktop.  Then start excavating the recess at its center, progressing in an outward spiral until the final passes are done with the router's base bearing against plywood template.

Hope this helps.


How can I insulate a duct running through an unconditioned kneewall space? Unfortunately, I have to run an 8 inch HVAC duct through an unconditioned kneewall attic in southern Ontario (climate zone 6). I am trying to decide between two options:

Encapsulate duct with spray foam to a sufficient R-value (image 1)
Bring the duct inside the conditioned space by framing and adding drywall around the duct. Then ensuring continuous fiberglass insulation around the building envelope (image 2)

I'm trying to understand if these are actually different. Isn't option 1 (spray foam) just the same except I avoid the work of framing/adding drywall?
If I spray foam, should I avoid spraying the duct where it is in contact with the conditioned space? And can I spray directly onto the duct surface, or do I need a vapour barrier?

What about using flex duct it is already insulated?
If you want to use metal duct you don’t have to frame around the duct like your pic that leaves air space,  get bats of insulation and wrap the insulation over the exterior side of the duct much like your drawing but in contact with the duct.


Heat pump minimum compressor temprature I recently moved into a new house that has a heat pump (air-to-air) combined with a natural gas fired furnace.

My old thermostat failed, so I replaced it with a new EcoBee thermostat.  During the setup it asked what the minimum outdoor temperature to still run the compressor should be.   I am new to heat pumps, so I am not sure what the correct answer is.

I live in the middle of Iowa (Cold snow filled winters).  Do I need to be concerned with snow on the outdoor unit?  At what point is it more efficient to use the natural gas instead of the heat pump?

For a natural gas furnace, cut off the heat pump at a fairly high outdoor air temperature (OAT).  The cost of heating with natural gas in the US is similar to the cost of running a heat pump that has a coefficient of performance (COP) around 3, which many heat pumps only achieve at an outdoor air temperature warmer than 40-50 degrees F.  Look up the cost of natural gas vs electricity per million BTU and the performance information on your particular heat pump to verify this.  The Elk Public Utility District in Tennessee has a cost comparison of heating sources at the bottom of the following webpage:

http://www.erpud.com/comparison.htm

To find the cut-off temperature for the the heat pump vs the natural gas furnace: (1) Divide the natural gas MMBTU fuel price by the efficiency of the furnace, giving the furnace heating cost per MMBTU.  (2) Divide the cost of electricity per MMBTU by the furnace heating cost per MMBTU, giving the COP at which the heat pump is break-even with the furnace.  (3) On the manufacturer extended performance table for your heat pump, look up the OAT associated with the break-even COP.  That is the OAT cut-off temperature.

Also accumulated snow on the outdoor unit is a problem, especially if the unit is always off when the OAT is below 45F.  Snow can block airflow and eventually turn to ice.  Severe ice buildup must be avoided since it can melt and refreeze, physically damaging the outdoor coils.  If you get deep snow in your area, do consider building snow protection for the outdoor unit.  Either that or disable it for the deep winter months and put a cover over it.

FYI, for someone with electric backup heat and not natural gas, the cut-off for many modern R410a heat pumps occurs around an OAT of 5-15 degrees F.


Replace or wash this furnace filter? My mom's furnace has ductwork until right next to the furnace, where the return air instead goes into an obsolete electronic air cleaner that is basically as big as the furnace itself.

The issue is the furnace filter, which sits inside this big empty box. We're not looking to remove or rework everything. Since my dad recently passed away and I'm use to regular ducts and filters I don't know what to tell her with these. Do we buy new ones? Are these the kind that just get washed and reused?

Thanks!

Replace.  Some say that filter media is meant to be washed and reused, but my experience is it passes ginormous amounts of dirt.

If it were up to me, I would throw that away and install 2" pleated MERV 7 (or 8) disposable pleated filters.  I usually purchase these from a local supply house that specializes in air filters because they will often sell any size needed for a reasonable price.  The prepackaged media available in hardware stores can be okay in a pinch, but they are often a poor value and those stores usually do not sell anything thicker than 1" pleated.

A 2" pleated Merv 7 Filter looks something like this:

Actual width and height are typically 1/2 inch under nominal.  Actual thickness is typically 1/4" under nominal.  (16 x 20 x 2 nominal is actually 15.5 x 19.5 x 1.75 to give installation clearance).  Air filter supply houses specializing in this media can usually fabricate these to order at a reasonable price.  These are called "pleated air filters, MERV 7 (or MERV 8)."  The MERV rating refers to the particle size that the filter traps.  Higher number gives tighter filtration, but most residential blowers cannot tolerate a filter more restrictive than MERV 8.


Do low voltage wires need to go in a junction box My AC blower is in the attic. It has a number of low voltage control wires that are not in a junction box. I am planning on blowing insulation into the attic, but I am not sure what to do about the wires. Should they be in a junction box?

It's not required, but there's no harm in doing so. I'd mostly detach them from the yellow cable and bring the nuts up above the insulation level in case you need to find them later.


Leakage in my pipes, how to densify/seal? I've never built with pipes before so maybe I'd need some general advice regarding leakage. On a specific note, I've built a system (see picture) where it leaks practically everywhere. I've sealed it with NASTRO P.T.F.E tape on some places where it seems to work. I've screwed the pipe parts very hard so it shouldn't leak but it does.. a lot. It seems unreasonable that I need to use NASTRO tape everywhere. How do professionals do it? My bathrooom pipes doesn't have any tape, what are they doing differently?

Edit (25th of march):

You should be using fittings that are applicable to the application, and should not be mixing and matching thread types. If you need to go from a fitting with tapered threads, to a fitting with straight threads. Then you should use an appropriate adapter.

I'm not sure why you're anti-PTFE tape. It's cheap, easy to use, and works well. PTFE tape is not specifically designed to seal threads, even though that's how it's commonly thought of.  In fact, PTFE tape reduces the friction in the threaded joint. This allows you to get the joint tighter, which lets the fittings seat together properly. This is especially effective with tapered threads, though can also help seat straight thread fittings as long as it's not over applied.   When working with straight threads, you'll find that paste dopes work better than tape dopes.

If you're looking to design a system that can be disassembled, and reassembled  often. Then you're going to want to use fittings that don't rely on the threads to make the seal. The fittings may be held in place by threads, but the seal itself should be independent of the threads. If the seal is dependent on washers and/or O-rings, you'll want to be careful ow much you tighten it down.  Crushing and/or deforming the washer/O-ring, can actually cause leaks.


insect eating holes in concrete My sister has an infestation of winged insects eating through the cinderblocks of her basement. Needless to say, this is terrifying. What are they and how do you control them?

These insects bored about 20 holes though cinder block and about 5 holes through the mortar. the holes were about 3/16" in the center, and about 1/2 inch at the opening (creating a funnel shaped opening). Will post more pictures tomorrow.

Insects are incapable of "eating" concrete, but they do tend to exploit weak or damaged concrete to access something more appealing, such as a food source or nesting site.

It only takes a small crack in an otherwise secure concrete foundation to let termites in. Poured concrete is the most reliable, but if you have a block foundation, the mortar is likely to provide open spaces. Expansion joints between home sections are another invitation to pests, as is any area where pipes or wires enter the house.
Once inside, termites build dirt tunnels. These tunnels get wider over time, so even though the bugs aren’t eating your foundation, they can cause a great deal of damage as pressure builds up and widens existing cracks. This slow process may go unnoticed until it becomes serious, making regular inspection of your home and foundation an important part of pest control.

Source
Eradication is best left to a professional for something this serious.


Should outdoor rug be used on wood decks? I have wood deck.  It get's periodically treated.  The last treatment was 3-4 years ago.

Was wondering if it's alright to put an outdoor rug (8x10 ft.) on it?  Will be placing chair and outdoor gas heater on top of rug.
Located in central Iowa
Thanks,

When you put something like that on a wood deck, blocking the sun, that portion of the wood will not fade at the same rate as the rest. So when you eventually remove it, you will see a "shadow" of where it was. Also, if the outdoor rug holds moisture, it may accelerate any wood rot that might otherwise have been avoided or slowed down by periodic drying.


What conduit should I install underground that meets code? I want to run a conduit under my front yard about 20 feet. I will be trenching to 18 inches deep, but was curious what the easiest conduit is to install that meets code? PVC? EMT? Liquidtight?

PVC is probably the easiest, and cheapest.  Just remember to glue your joints, and install expansion fittings where appropriate.


What is the best process for a first-timer doing a small drywall finishing job? As part of some home renovations I recently hung the equivalent of nine sheets of drywall -- eight on the walls (including a basement staircase) and one on the ceiling. I've done small patch jobs on drywall before and it's something I loathe. I got some quotes to have the finishing done, but apparently business is good for drywall finishers -- the quotes are four times what I anticipated, are scheduling almost a month out, and will take up to 10 business days to complete.

So I guess I'll be learning to finish drywall.

As this will be my first time finishing more than just a patch job, I'm looking for a process that will be straightforward and give me a high probability of success. Time is not a concern. Here are my questions:

Paper tape or mesh tape? From what I've read, mesh tape is easier to install (good) but not as strong (bad) and requires compound that I'd have to mix up myself (bad-- another thing to figure out). It seems like paper would be a bit harder to position and install, but otherwise is a better choice. So the question here is which is more challenging -- getting the compound mix right, or getting the paper tape installed properly?
Pre-mixed vs setting-type compound. Pre-mixed eliminates a step that I could mess up (good), and the main disadvantage seems to be that it takes longer to dry. Since I'm going to be slow, and will do most of this weeknights after work, that doesn't seem like a big deal. Are there other reasons why I should consider setting-type compound?
Dust control compound? Home Depot sells this stuff, which sounds like snake oil to me. It costs $2 more per bucket. Is it worth it? Are there disadvantages?
Oh my god the dust. This is what I remember about patch jobs, and what everybody complains about. Any pro-tips for dealing with the dust? Do these things actually work?

In all of these considerations, I'm not paying for someone else's time so I don't need the most convenient option -- I need the most fool-proof (the fool being myself). Since this is a small job, cost isn't too much of a concern either -- at least not compared to the outrageous quotes I got.

Paper tape or mesh tape?

It comes down to preference. As a "beginner" (but not for long... haha) I feel that mesh tape will be easier for you. No, you do not have to use any special mud; premix will work just fine. Some say that paper tape is stronger; some say that it is less likely to form hairline joint cracks over time.

  Pre-mixed vs setting-type compound.

You should absolutely use pre-mix joint compound to bed and cover your tape, and pre-mix topping compound for subsequent applications. Setting-type compound takes some special skill gained with experience, must be troweled/worked rapidly, and is harder to sand. You have time, take advantage of that to make this difficult work easier for you.

  Dust control compound?

Yes, it applies just like regular pre-mix but is less dusty when sanding. If money is an issue and dust not so much, don't bother with it.

  dust

The vacuum dust collecting sanding pads do work, but you are talking about significant expense, the vacuum is loud, and they only work with drywall sanding mesh/screens which I do not recommend for anything except the initial mud knock-down.

Tips:

Buy quality knives/trowels and set aside plenty of time to clean and dry them after each use.
Buy 3" (for scooping mud from bucket), 6", 10", and 12" knives.
Cover unused mud in buckets with plastic cling wrap (Saran Wrap) pressed tight to the mud, then snap the lid back on the bucket.
Get a strong worklight and shine it from the side, oblique to the wall, when finishing and sanding. This will highlight uneven areas and imperfections with shadows.


Will pipe insulation stop condensation on an HVAC drain line? ISSUE

A sweaty condensation drain line is dripping and causing mold in a ceiling panel:

The condensation drain pipe is lengthy and spans two rooms:

QUESTION

Is insulating the pipe an effective means to counter this drip / mold problem? If you have successfully solved this problem please state this in your response and include details / context.  Thank you

Yes. Isolating the pipe from moist air has been the common fix for decades.


need help matching wires So we used to have this ugly rusted chandelier in our dining room, but recently we decided to take it off. When removed we saw the above scene. I am now confused about which of the 2 wires/bundles with black I should connect to the black wire on the new light fixture we want to install, and which wire/bundle with white should connect to the same on the fixture. Also, the switch attached to this fixture was a dimmer switch, which we also replaced. I did try and use a circuit tester quote "for auto systems" and couldn't get it to light up in with any combination I tried.  I would so appreciate any help. I would like to be able to use the dining room again some day.

That is a switch loop, notice the white with the group of blacks, that white goes down to the switch and the switched power is on the single black wire (if you look close that white with the black will be in the same cable as the single black)  so your black on the light goes to the single black. The white on the light to the group of whites and grounds together if the lamp has one. (Plastic lamps may not have a ground, the white with the black wires should be marked usually black or with black tape but any color besides white, gray or green would meet code.) the marking of a switch loop is often overlooked/ not done.


Problem with my Mendota Seabrook Model D-30 Direct Vent Gas Insert I have a Mendota Seabrook Model D-30 Gas Fireplace that  keeps shutting off, sometimes after 1 minutes other times after 10 minutes. It has been running fine for about 9 years, but then started having problems this year.
First, it was the pilot light that gave me a hard time. The pilot flame kept shutting off, but once it was on, I was able to turn the heat on, and it stayed on.
After that, the main burner started shutting off after  few minutes of operation. I can hear the solenoid clicking when the burner flame dies.
I tried a bunch of things, like cleaning the thermocouple, the thermopile, vacuuming the silt, cleaning the head with a straw, etc...for no avail.
Any ideas?

A non-working pilot light that doesn't remain lit could have blockage in it's line, but most likely at it's orifice where the gas pathway is narrowest.
If the main burner ignites and burns,but than shuts-off than it could be the thermo-couple needs replacing. First make sure the top 1/3rd of the thermo-couple end is positioned directly in the pilot flame otherwise it wont send the electric signal that is generated by heat to the gas valve to remain open.
I'm not sure all heaters have this saftey feature, but if your exhaust vent draw is not adequate (that is there is blockage) the heater may be sensing this and as a precaution shutting off the gas flow.
Lastly, and i find this to be a common problem, check/replace the thermostat. If it's a basic (2) wire model remove it's face to expose the wires. Should be (but not always) a Red and White. You can jump these by bridging them with a similar sized wire. The heater should ignite (make sure the pilot is working first).


How do I fix a broken power cord My dog chewed through the plug end of a air purifier that I have in my house. I was wondering if it was possible to buy a plug by itself connect the end of this cord into the plug safely. Below is a picture of what the end of the cord now looks like.

EDIT: I am in the United States. Thank you all so much for all the thoughtful answers!

Since the damage is at the end of the cord, you can just cut off the chewed part, replace the plug, and lose a few inches of cord length.  There is an endless selection of replacement plug styles at any big hardware store.  A few things to note:

This answer is focused on the plug style used in the US, Canada, Mexico, Japan, and some other countries.  Plug designs vary in other countries.  To the extent that there are other considerations that apply elsewhere, I encourage readers to comment or post other answers to better address requirements in other countries.
The cord in the picture is commonly called zip cord or lamp cord.  It's used on low power, indoor appliances.  Plugs are designed for different types of cord.  Some cords have a round outer insulation jacket covering individually insulated wires.  The replacement plugs designed for that type of cord, especially for higher-power appliances or outdoor use, are big and contain a clamp sized to grab a thick, round cable.  You don't need a massive plug like that.  There are light duty plugs designed for the type of cord on your air purifier.
It's a two-wire cord, so get a two prong plug.  There are polarized and non-polarized plugs (the polarized plugs have one blade wider than the other).  Match the style of the original plug.
If the original plug was polarized, the cord should have one side identified by ribbing or a white stripe.  That side goes to the wider blade, which is the neutral connection.  If the original plug was not polarized, it doesn't make any difference which wire goes to which non-polarized blade.
If the store has only polarized plugs and the original was not polarized, it won't hurt to use a polarized plug.  But if the original was polarized, do not replace it with a non-polarized one.
The plugs come in two attachment styles.  One requires you to strip some of the insulation and wrap the wire around a screw.  The other is "insulation displacement"; you put the intact wire in a slot and closing the cover forces the wire onto contacts that cut through the insulation and grab each wire.  Either style is fine.  As FreeMan notes in a comment, some insulation displacement plugs may require you to separate the two wires for a short distance, with each wire going into a separate channel inside the plug (just follow the package instructions).

Make sure there is a mechanism to secure the wire so that pulling on it can't pull it out.  If there is not some type of built-in clamp (a situation more common in the screw-type, like the plug shown below), tie a knot in the cord inside the plug to keep the cord from being pulled out.

There is a knot called the Underwriter's Knot designed for this purpose.  The picture below (courtesy of this web site), shows it inside a lamp base:

You can get right-angle replacement plugs.  This can reduce the clearance required at the wall if the outlet is behind furniture.

all pictures courtesy Home Depot


When to Replace UV Bulb in AC System? We had a new AC system put in last summer. The contractor included a UV bulb between the cooling area and the supply fan.  It's supposed to kill bacteria and other nasties in the air.

(The bulb is a Honeywell UV2400XLAM1 - Details here in case you're interested: https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/Techlit/TechLitDocuments/03-00000s/03-00011.pdf)

My question is "when should I replace the bulb?"  Other than the obvious answer "when it stops working" I'm wondering if there's a point where (for whatever reason) it becomes less effective.  Is it possible that the bulb could still be putting out visible light after it stops putting out UV, which I obviously cannot see?

These things are not cheap (they're around $70) so I'd rather not replace it sooner than I have to.

Thanks!

UV lights in both HVAC and water purification systems should be changed yearly.

This is also in the Honewell spec sheet for the UV2400:

  Lamp should be changed 1/year or every 9000 hrs to maintain its
  effectiveness

Many systems have a timer and will start beeping and/or flashing a light after 1 year to remind you to replace them.

It's not that they will just stop working after that time, but that their output is reduced over time and they're built so they have an effective output for a year.

Should also be noted that the runtime is cumulative: if you only use this for 6 months of the year (and turn it off the other 6), you can go up to two years. The Honeywell documentation states 9000 hours (1 year = 8760 hours), which is typical of all water treatment UV systems (of which I have installed/serviced hundreds).


How can I reduce noise from my neighbor's pool pump 12’ to 15’ away from my house? I need fencing type/material to use to block low hum of pool pump located 12’ to 15’ from family room hurricane impact windows. I'm planning to erecta  6’ high fence on property line between houses spanning about 18’. The pump is used on high and low speed creating noise.

You'd need a fence at least as high as the wavelength, with substantial mass, and for a 60 Hz hum, for example, that's a 5 meter (15 ft) high fence, made of concrete, such as used for highway sound barriers.


Why is a single walled pipe not used for wood stove exhaust pipe on upper floors? I've recently been looking into wood burning stoves. Many installations use a stove pipe that goes straight up through the ceiling and out the roof.  Most of these use a single walled pipe for the first room (the room containing the stove), and then through the second floor and attic/roof sections a double-wall insulated pipe is used.

My question is, for what reason is a single walled pipe not used for the second floor room?  Surely this would allow more of the stove pipe heat to be used to heat the upper floor? (note I mean the upper room, not the attic section).

The only possible reasons I can see are:

Fire hazzard.  But in this case couldn't a protective guard be placed around the pipe, to stop anything touching it?
Increased creosote build up.  But we're not talking about a massive temperature difference here - so would this really have such a bad effect?

Thanks

You have to use double walled pipe when going through walls and floors and what not because the double wall and the space between the pipes cools enough that it can come in contact with wall materials. Single walled pipe would get hot enough to ignite the surrounding materials.

Also, a lot of fireplace type units use a 2 walled pipe that brings in air for combustion through the outside pipe and exhausts hot air through the inside pipe, but that wouldn't be used in conjunction with single walled pipe.


First Co Air handler + Gas Hot Water boiler: Connect thermostat for gas or electric? My apartment's mid-90s heating system consists of a gas-fired hot water heater feeding a First Co TAQ1824 air handler. The air handler has a fan and blows hot air through air ducts. The system is described in detail in my previous post.

I recently swapped out the old Honeywell basic digital thermostat for a Nest. With the Honeywell, anytime the system was heating or cooling, the fan ran full blast and you could hear it loud and clear and feel a strong rush of air from the vents throughout the apartment, including cool air in the first 1-2 minutes it takes the air handler radiator to heat up.

With the Nest, when it calls for heat, the air handler's fan runs at a different speed - specifically, VERY SLOW. Like, inaudible unless you're right by the air handler, and you can barely feel air coming out of the vents.

After some research, I learned that typically, for gas fired furnaces, the thermostat only calls for heat (connects +24V to W), leaving it up to the furnace to decide when to turn on the fan. For electric furnaces, the thermostat calls Heat and Fan (W+G). After reconfiguring the Nest for electric heat, it now behaves like the Honeywell: anytime it's trying to heat, the fan is going full blast. I also found that the Honeywell could be configured to run in 'gas' mode the same way.

When the Nest was in 'gas' mode and the fan was running slowly, it did still heat the apartment in about the same amount of time. There was less air blowing around (more pleasant, really), but the air slowly coming out of the vents was much hotter (spending more time in the radiator), so it kind of balanced out.

Now I've got a handful of questions about this:

Does it makes sense that the First Co air handler has two fan speeds: one for gently pushing hotter air out, and one for more forcibly circulating air? I thought multi-speed fans in HVACs was a recent higher-end feature.
If #1 doesn't make sense, what explain the slow feed of hot air when the Nest is only connecting W? Is there some electrical leakage path that makes the fan spin slightly? If that's the case, I'm assuming it's unsafe to run in 'gas' mode.
Ultimately, how should I have this system set up? As 'gas' so the air handler determines what speed to run the fan, i.e. very slow as described above? Or should I configure it as electric so it's always running the fan full blast? I don't have any particular reason to think the Honeywell's previous setup should be authoritative.

Note that although the hot water is gas-fired, the air handler does not use gas and doesn't really need time to heat up. It's always got hot water on tap right next to it.

Also I have not been able to find an owner's manual for the First Co air handler.

Thanks.

I'm going to try to explain this as simply as possible. Most air handling units having several speeds available on the motor usually at least 4. Normally the board will have at least two speeds, one for heat and one for cool. In the old days the lower heat speed was to eliminate the possibility of flue gas condensation as the units, be it oil or gas were not designed to handle the slightly acidic condensate. Nowadays most units are high efficiency condensing units. Everything is still designed around the lower fan speed, and that's a good thing. It's quieter, allows for a longer and thus more efficient heat cycle. All the heat loss calculations, duct sizes, unit capacities and fan speeds are set up with this lower fan speed in mind. Electric resistive elements generate alot of heat for the resistive metal handle and need the higher fan speed to remove the heat before burning themselves up.

Air-Conditioning has a very specific cfm(cubic feet per minute) per ton of cooling. 400 cfm per ton of air across the evaporator. So if you have a 2 ton air-conditioner you need 800cfm.

The thermostat on cooling energizes R(24v) to Y(compressor) and G (fan). On heat with gas selected, as you know energizes R to W(heat).

In your case, running a hydronic coil it's a balance between comfortable noise level, capacity and efficiency. Being connected to a water heater and not a boiler, return temperature is irrelevant. So that rules out efficiency concerns. If it was connected to a boiler then the lowest return temperature possible is ideal. So that leaves comfort vs capacity. At lower fan speeds capacity is diminished. As long as your house is comfortable at the lowest fan speed then that's the way to go.

On modern units there are sometimes dozens of available speeds. By setting dip switches you can select the desired speed in cfm for the application you can even set a baseline continuous fan at say 200 cfm. Then have a separate speed when the board senses power on G(fan switch on the stat set to ON) say 400 cfm. Then for your 2 ton air-conditioner when the board senses power on Y it goes to 800 cfm. Units with this capability are often modulating and the heat speed is set by an algorithm in conjunction with the burner speed. It will start on a very low setting at the start of the heat cycle and ramp up over time or based on indoor temperature readings.

Conclusion

Yes it makes sense
Gas is a good setting
Run the heat as low as possible to maintain a satisfactory level of comfort balanced with noise. And don't touch the air-conditioning speed on the board.


What is the purpose of this piece of a toilet fill valve? I was replacing a toilet fill valve last night, and after it was all done, I noticed the following item sitting in the basin I had placed underneath:

It looks unused, so I'm assuming it fell out of the new fill valve, but I can't figure out what it is. Presumably it's some kind of aerator, but why would a fill valve need one? Everything seems to be working fine without it. Can someone here identify what this thing is?

Looks like an aerator or flow restrictor. My guess is flow restrictor. Probably was a handy place to toss it, or keep it for later use if need be, by whomever removed it. Or maybe it just fell in after removal and nobody could spot it to throw it away properly.


NEC 2016 AFCI question I am currently dealing with a little confusion regarding arc fault protection and how it would be enforced by 2016 NEC code. I'm not a licensed electrician, I'm doing an apprenticeship and the guy overseeing my work is unavailable right now, was hoping for some advice.  I ran a branch circuit to a shared switch box consisting of 2 - 3 way switches powering independent lighting circuits. I used a 14/3 cable not being aware he was enforcing this code. (I haven't seen it enforced much around here in my experience). I was am now being told that you can not share a common neural and still arc fault protect them. I think I may have found a way if I were to use a 2- pole 15 amp breaker they would only need one neutral, correct? Is this violating any other NEC codes in the process by them having a common trip? Also I am finding GE has discontinued 2 pole afci breakers. I would have to order online to match the load center but does anyone have any idea as to why they stopped making them? Were they having trouble with the functionality? Any advice you guys may have would be a big help. Thanks

GE (THQL) AFCIs don't come in two pole any longer -- because they don't need to

Your apparent lack of ability to find two pole THQL AFCIs is actually due to a manufacturing revision to the single pole units.  Mod 3 single pole THQL AFCI breakers can be handle-tied for multiple pole applications, as they do not use a CT-based trip for arc-to-ground detection.  (You still need to wire the load neutral to one of the AFCIs, but either one will do -- you don't need to connect it to both.)

See this GE handout for details.


Cutting an area of vinyl plank flooring that is already installed Last year I installed vinyl plank flooring in my basement (on concrete floor + underlay), including an area under the stairs.
I now want to build a closet under the stairs and have the problem having to remove vinyl plank in that section so I can frame out the walls of the closet and not build on top of the floating vinyl plank which was not recommended.
I was think about going at it with a good knife and try to cut a rectangular second out of the flooring for the framing of the closet, is there a better way I can do this or tools you can recommend?
The alternative would be a big hassle of lifting the floor from the end of the room, including all trim around the walls in those sections, cutting properly and laying it down again, reattaching trim, and repaint damage.

Use a circular saw with a wood cutting blade set to the depth of the vinyl floor thickness.  Osc tools are invaluable for small jobs but they are slow and you'll burn through a lot of blades to cut something that size out.
I'd use some quick support rods that push down on 2x4s around the area where you are cutting to prevent any of the boards from moving when you are cutting.  Set the 2x4 and use it as a guide to cut a straight line in the boards.
Seems like a lot of work though.  I'd probably just put the wall on the floor.
LVT doesn't thermally expand to the same degree as laminate, wood or engineered hardwood.  I've installed kitchen cabinets on top of floating LVT without problem.  In your case you could secure the wall on the top and sides, to allow for expansion of the floor you could cut an oval hole in the lvt where the fastener holds the bottom plate to the concrete then if the floor wants to move under the wall it just has to overcome the friction of the bottom plate.  You could also put a low friction tape or platic surface on the bottom of the bottom plate which would allow the floor to move under the bottom plate with less effort.


Removing the fixture to change light bulb...do I pull, twist I do not know what to do to remove this cover to install new bulbs.I assume you have to pull it down or twist but being afraid to put much force in to it for fear of breaking i dont know what to do. Somebody help me!
Thanks

If there's no visible screws, then it has to be a twist. Get a ladder you can stand on (like an A-frame) and gently try to turn it to the left. Hopefully it moves without a ton of effort.

Good luck!


Can I install a plug on a hard-wired cooktop? I have a 30" 5 burner cooktop stove that is hardwired. Due to my requirements, I have to be able to swap it out with another cooktop every once in a while.

I was wondering if it is safe to wire the cooktop to a plug, and install a plug socket in the cabinet so I can swap out the cooktop easy. Is this against any type of code?

It is a GE Profile electric stove, not gas, and is located in Montreal, Quebec, Canada

As per the GE website, it is 40 Amps/240V

Canadian practice is very similar to US practice.

Stoves and ovens typically live on a 40A or 50A circuit.

It is common to provide receptacles for them, but 40A receptacles are not made, so the (US) National Electrical Code has a special exception allowing 50A receptacles on 40A circuits.

Sometimes the oven and stove are separate, but on the same 40A or 50A circuit, in which the NEC allows two receptacles to be provisioned.


Should we use regular plywood or Lauan over fir strip sub-floor before laying vinyl? We are preparing a rental kitchen floor for sheet vinyl or VCT tiles. We currently have exposed 3" wide fir strips as the sub-floor. We were told we needed to lay 3/8" plywood over the fir for durability, but the plywood and the thickness of the vinyl raises the floor more than we would like.  A second opinion suggested we use 1/4" Lauan, which appeals to us more. Does anyone know if this product is as durable as plywood?

Well technically it is plywood, it's just not very good plywood. Having said that I've seen flooring guys use a product that looked very much like luan that was no more than an 1/8 of an inch thick to get the level they needed. This was in a hospital remodel so it was definitely up to code and it went under a commercial grade thermo-sealed floor so it should be good for just about any application unless your subfloor is really atrocious. Ask around at a dedicated flooring supply store and they should be able to point you in the right direction.


What is the proper/recommended way to tile a window sill in a shower? I'm in the process of re-tiling my bathroom shower wall and I'm stumped on how to properly tile the window sill near our shower.  Here's a picture:

It's roughly 3 inches deep and 18 inches wide.  We want to install subway tile for the walls and the tile we've selected is roughly 2.5 inches tall (which is obviously too small for the sill).

What is the preferred way to handle this?  Should we use an entirely different shape of tile for the sill?

First, make sure the rough sill slopes toward the shower. Measure it with a level; if it's not appropriately sloped, build it up with more mortar to create the requisite slope.

Then, once you've painted all that cementboard with RedGard, the whole assembly should already be waterproof. Just tile over RedGard on the sill however you like. Any water that gets behind and under the tile (and it will) with harmlessly drain down the wall. If the tiles are too big, cut them. Or use dedicated bullnose tiles, which may be the right size and are likely to have a nice lip to them.


Yes, I'm dumb - I drilled into wall backing my electrical panel so... I was drilling into a wall and the drill was having a hard time. I figured I just needed to keep going and I did and it finally went through. Afterwards I realized my electrical panel was directly behind that wall and then noticed metal shavings around. What are the chances I have a huge problem??!!!

This is hard to answer since we don't know if it caused any mechanical or electrical damage, also is the hole in an area where it could be seen and repaired. I am assuming the answer is no since you didn't say you could see the hole. You simply state there are metal savings. You might want to bring in a trained professional who could safely remove certain parts and investigate the damage. Think of it as "I might have drilled a hole in my brake line, what do I do now."

Stay safe and good luck.


Building a raised platform fort I want to build a 4m x 5m raised platform for my kids fort.  It will be 2m high.  I have a few questions:

It is OK to attach the posts at the corners or will I need more in the middle?

What do I attach the frame to the posts with?

How far apart should I place the floor joists?

What do I attach the floor joists with?

With the floor boards do I need some space between them?

Thank you.  I probably will have more questions.

grab a framing manual from your hardware supplier, it will tell you what size beams and posts are required to make a sturdy floor.

  It is OK to attach the posts at the corners or will I need more in the middle?

4 posts sounds workable. but yo will probably need bracing to keep the posts straight.
or else use very deep holes for the posts.

  What do I attach the frame to the posts with?

Bolts of a weather resistant type eg: galvanized.

  How far apart should I place the floor joists?

See framing manual.

  What do I attach the floor joists with?

Nails or joist hangers. Depending whether you want to pass the joist over the frame or butt them up-to it.

  With the floor boards do I need some space between them?

Does it rain where you live?  Basically you are building a deck. The gaps allow rain to drain through the deck.


Bathroon light and ceiling exhaust fan wiring? I feel like this is something I should be able to do but after reading similar threads I'm still confused:
My bathroom is setup with two 12/2 wires coming into the switch box. One I know for sure goes to the ceiling exhaust fan and only the fan (the yellow sheathed wire). The other should goto my light. The ground on the light wire is connected directly to the box if that matters.
With the breaker on, the common wire in the switch box that is coming from the light is hot?
Does this make sense and how would I wire a single switch so when its on, both the light and fan are powered?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT: I know at one time this was set up on two switches in the switch box. I'd like to avoid that and run both off the same switch.

You'll need a pro to sort this out if you're not comfortable rerunning wiring yourself
The problem you have is that the light was run as a switch loop, with an always-hot from the light fixture box down to the switch and a switched-hot from the switch back to the light, but no neutral, as was permitted by the NEC prior to 2011.  However, whoever ran the /2 cable for the fan down to the switch box expected power to be coming in here, or at the very least, for both always-hot and neutral to be available here.  So, you'll need to either reroute the cable for the fan to the light box or replace the /2 for the light switch loop with a /3 yourself, or have a pro do it for you if you aren't comfortable with DIYing that.


Can this be used to size up a flared fitting? If my gas line has this on the end of it, with a 1/2 flared connector on the left:

...and my flexible gas line from a kit is expecting 5/8 flares:

...can I use this adapter that came with the kit -- which fits snugly but doesnt look like its expecting a flare on the 1/2" side -- to size up the connector on the valve?

In other words is it okay to put that top picture into the female side of the bottom picture? It's a perfect fit threadwise, but that flared tip makes me nervous.

So, I don't know if a flared connector has to go into a non-flared female side.

This whole flared adapter thing is confusing to me. It makes sense for flares to go into the copper pipe that has its ends rolled up, but it seems like I'm in "flared" mode here for no reason.

Actual photo:

Pipe in floor:

There are two common adapters that come with the yellow gas connector flex lines.  The fittings on the flex line are normally flare fittings, so the adapters are to change the size of flare, or (I think more commonly) to adapt pipe threads to flare.

The flex lines that I have purchased recently came with an adapter that was flare on one end, and the other end had male and female threads for standard pipe.  Your updated picture looks like this is the type in your kit.  In my previous comment, I said the threads are different between flare and pipe, and they are somewhat, but you might be able to thread the connector all the way on and have it "feel right" if you're not sure what to look for.

Flare to flare fittings don't have the extra male threads (like your original stock image).  The inside of the female threaded side will have an obvious cone shape for the flare to seal on.

So, to summarize based on the update image, I would say that the adapter you have is made to adapt standard pipe thread to a flare, and if you need to change the size of the flare, you need an additional adapter.

Bonus on thread types:

This site has some good info, but the basic thread sealing types are tapered threads, parallel threads and systems like flare fittings.

Steel pipe has tapered threads and the seal is created by the taper wedging the pipes together. Thread sealant/lubricant helps seal these because it helps get the threads tighter.

Things like shower heads and water hoses use parallel threads.  The two fittings do not "get tighter" as you go, so sealing has to be done by a third party, which is normally a rubber washer.  No sealant needed - the rubber does all the work.

Then, gas and hydraulic fittings are typically flare fittings.  They use parallel threads as well, but the end of the fitting has some sealing... apparatus.  The flared male and female sides are exactly matched or they use a malleable material (like soft pipe or a copper washer) so just small but firm tightening makes a gap-proof seal.  Again, no sealant needed.


How to remove this two-piece door hinge? Trying to remove a door at my apartment, and it has a door hinge that looks like this

and here's an image of another one

They are both painted over quite a bit, so it's difficult to see how I'm supposed to attack it. Anyone familiar with these and how I should try to remove them?

It was difficult to pull up by hand, because of the paint and because it's been there for awhile. But I just used a lot of force at the bottom of the door (using a hammer handle to help me pry up) and I was able to start moving it and then got it off.


Multiple breakers controlling the same lights - how can this be? We have started having trouble with our outside package unit A/C stopping on its own, before it reaches the correct temp. I can identify 3 issues:

There are multiple lights (bath, just one light over the kitchen sink, and laundry light downstairs) on opposite sides of the house that go off at the same time as the AC. 220 Breaker in position 3-4 is not tripped. I  believe there is a short or loose wire, because after it goes off, it will come back on by itself between 15 minutes to 2 hours hour later. Nothing else is touched, and it comes back on. Even stranger is the same lights will sometimes come on at around 50% full power, but no AC. They will randomly come back to full power on their own. This morning AC was off when we got up, then came on for an hour, then kicked off. Same lights described above were off, then fluctuated between full power, 50% or off. As I checked breakers with a spot light plugged in below the panel, that light will come on and off randomly with nobody touching it.
A separate 15 amp breaker in position 8 also can turn off the laundry room lights described above. This light is on a pull chain and can be turned off from 2 breakers, one being the 220 for the AC.
Last issue. This morning the well pump went off (a home run circuit) and won't come back on.
I have an electrician scheduled to come out this week, but no water or AC is not real good.....Any insight would be appreciated.

Call the power company and tell them you lost a phase

This will explain all your symptoms.  I almost posted this answer before hearing your reply, but your reply confirms it.

The power company should come out and do this for free on a Sunday - they did for me.

This is what is happening.  Your supply wire to pole L1 (or the other, but let's say L1) is broken.  The 240V loads are connected between L1 and L2.  Some 120V loads are connected between L1 and neutral.

When a 240V appliance (pump, water heater, A/C, range, dryer) cycles on, it effectively connects L1 to L2 through its low resistance motor or heater.  This energizes L1 at L2’s voltage.

This in turn allows 120V appliances wired between L1 and neutral to power up.  This current flow also allows the 240V load to function somewhat; the large load(s) and the 120V load(s) on L1 are in series, running on 120V total.

This is far from ideal, but it's enough that for instance water heaters will warm enough to cycle off again, and the pump may do the same (though I certainly would not push my luck with a pump in a most inconvenient location).  Hence the lights cycling on and off "randomly".    When all 240V loads are cycled off, the whole 120V leg will be dead.


XL 90 Trane fan not starting i have a trane xl 90 . tried turning on heat for the first time this fall. everything works good till its time for the blower motor to come on, then it shuts down and waits a few minutes and starts the cycle over again.
Fan works with air condition, or in manual. Just wont come on after the ignitor has lite the pilot and it burns for a minute

There's a flame sensor (as opposed to a heat sensor) that can become coated with combustion products. These can be cleaned, or it may need replacement.


What prevents overflow in this system? I recently looked at this cooling system in a research lab.

The heat exchanger (with chilled water hook-ups, not shown) pumps fluid over a wall to a heat load.  A transparent hose is attached to the heat load side to monitor the fluid level.

What prevents coolant from flowing down from the top of the wall into the heat exchanger and overfilling the reservoir?

What is the purpose of the valve?  Should it be open of closed for the water level monitor to work?

I assume this setup is somewhat hypothetical because the water level monitor would not be very useful as shown.  Disregarding that...

Q:  What prevents [fluid] from overflowing the cooling reservoir?

I agree at first glance this setup looks like it will function as a siphon and the fluid will drain to the bottom reservoir and out, but there are two key points that prevent that:

Most importantly, the lines connecting top and bottom tanks are connected to the top of the upper tank.  A void will appear under the connections to the upper tank as soon as the upper tank level recedes due to any water being drawn out.  The void will break the siphon.  Worst case is only the water in the lines will flow into the lower tank.  Then the flow will stop.  The lower tank has enough reserve capacity to accommodate the liquid in the lines.
Unless the upper tank is high enough above the lower tank to overcome the force of a vacuum (roughly 30 feet of elevation for water), the liquid will have difficulty leaving the upper tank if the upper air valve is closed.

Q:  What is the purpose of the valve?  Should it be open for the water level monitor to work?

I am going to answer these in the reverse of order asked.

The valve must be open for the water level monitor to work.  When the valve is closed, captive air in the upper part of the level monitor will have no place to go, hence water will be unable to enter or leave as the level in the upper tank changes.  Having the valve closed is as good as having the level monitor turned OFF.
What is the purpose of the valve?   That's a good question, and without more detail the best I can do is hazard a guess.  The upper tank is a heat source which is being cooled.  If the coolant gets hot enough to boil then it might be necessary to temporarily close the valve to prevent a mess of hot liquid sputtering out.  Judging from the trap placed in the line before the valve, I think that is a possibility.


Are these AC ducts beyond cleaning? I moved into a upstairs apartment- studio 425 sq feet. The building is a 2 story building. It was built in 1971.

I had a bad musky meldew smell in my apartment. My AC broke and the landlord placed a brand new one in, which helped a lot.

However, I still retain some of that sour musky smell in the apartment. I have 3 ac ducts and here is what one of them looks like in the photos.

Strangely, I still smell the odor with the windows open and AC off. But I guess it's the ducts.

My question is, I have read that some AC ducts are beyond cleaning. I don't mind spending money to get them clean just to get rid of the odor(if they are the cause). Does anyone know if these ducts are beyond cleaning or can they be cleaned? The pics below are of just one of the 3 air ducts.

Those ducts are not that dirty. The bottom picture shows what looks like dirt in the bottom of the duct but the sides and top are still shiny. The duct in the top picture is the dirtiest. The insides of these ducts are made of rigid insulation , not sheet metal. First and the cheapest possible solution is to place charcoal briquets (not the self start kind) any where you can inside the ducts, for a couple weeks. If there is a spot where you could place a netted bag full of charcoal in a duct, do this also. Last idea, Home Depot and Lowes both sell a cut to size charcoal combination filter and charcoal filter called "the web sbsorber", and costs about $10.00, that can be mounted in a filter rack or "made to fit" elsewhere near the blower. The green filter, filters the air and the charcoal takes out the smells. I have been using these for years since my wife has a nose that detects odors form 1000 feet. I replace the filter every 3 months and run my fan 24/7. This works for me. BY the way, We moved into an apartment 20 years ago while our house was being built and I did the charcoal in ducts and netted bags in the furnace housing to get rid of the musty smells.


Reparing rock lath plaster around thermostat wires in wall...need troubleshooting advice! I have been trying to find advice on how to do something similar to patch a rock lath plaster wall around my thermostat wires. It doesn't look like the original screws were screwed into anything substantial.The area where  I'm trying to patch around the hole in the wall to provide a solid surface to rehang the thermostat screws, but after three coats, the patching is still flimsy and won't hold a screw much less the entire thermostat. The guy at the hardware store suggested a fiberglass patch which I used but now I'm thinking I should have used aluminum? HELP?! See photos to make more sense of the problem.

From your original picture, here's how I would have repaired it:

Use some small pieces of (scrap) wood as strapping. Big enough to form a good support but small enough so you can get them into the (massive) hole for the wires. Somewhere between 3/8" and 3/4" would work best.
Anchor the strapping with drywall screws. Ideally they can be placed so they're covered by the thermostat. You can fill these in with compound or spackle if you want to.
Just use regular wood screws (eg, #8 x 1.25" or 1.5") to mount the thermostat to the strapping, no need for drywall anchors.


2020 NEC code changes OK, WOW, just reviewed the 2020 NEC changes scheduled to take effect this year.

I'm asking if I'm interpreting the changes correctly:

1)  Whole house surge protection.   Required either between the meter and load (type 1) or on the load side (type 2)(in the panel?)

2) EVERYTHING needs GFCI now?  Including all 240 volt circuits (dryer, water heater, range, AC, heat pumps, well pumps, fixed appliances (dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwave, etc.) ???  Given the previous AFCI protection does that mean for circuits requiring AFCI protection now require "dufees" (Dual function GFCI & AFCI) breakers?

3) Exterior disconnect required on all structures. I think pulling the meter on the main service would suffice for the house, but would outbuildings now require an exterior disconnect?   I think so based on what I have read online.

4)  When does the 2020 NEC take effect?

NEC 2020 is not a law.  It is a model law, which states and municipalities are free to adopt or adapt as their law.

Your state decides when (or if) which parts of 2020 NEC become law.  I expect places like CA where exterior panels and disconnects are common, will probably acquiesce to exterior disconnects, and places like IN or OH where they are uncommon, will not.


Is there a problem with panel I have three legs entering with no neutral, from fuses. The voltages on the legs read 120, 208, and 118.
When I put a light on the first breaker it will go out within a minute. No matter where I try to hook it up except the high leg the voltage either goes down or up. Is this panel bad or am I doing it wrong?

You have wild-leg delta. But without neutral, you can only drive 240V loads.

Since your service does not contain a neutral wire, you are not allowed to hook up any loads between hot and ground.  The only loads you can serve are 240V loads.

The 240V loads must be connected on a 2-pole breaker (or 3-pole) with hot1 to one throw and hot2 to the other throw.  You cannot do anything with neutrals, except re-mark them with tape to designate them as a hot wire.

If you have a desire to power 120V loads, you need to contact your power company about getting a 4-wire service with neutral.


How do I replace this dimmer switch to a conventional switch? I want to replace the dimmer switch in my kitchen with a conventional light switch. However I could use a little guidance.

I understand the two black wires are the hot wires, and the green is ground. I understand how to wire those into the regular switch, but in all the videos I have watch online no one ever seems to have the red (I believe it is the neutral wire). How do I go about wiring this?

The new light switch I have only has 3 screws.

That is a 3-way dimmer, so you'll have to replace it with a 3-way switch.  The new 3-way switch will have 4 terminals (screws), 1 black (Common), 2 brass (Travelers), 1 green (Ground).

When working with 3-way switches, the Common terminal will always be the odd color (odd man out). For example, on your current switch the Red wire is the Common. On a regular 3-way, the black (odd color) screw is the Common.

To prevent confusion, it's often a good idea to work with one wire at a time. Rather than disconnecting all the wires from the old switch, then trying to remember what went where.

Start By turning off the power at the breaker, and verifying it's off with a non-contact voltage tester.
Disconnect the bare copper wire from the old switch, and connect it to the green terminal on the new switch.
Disconnect the black wire (the one connected to the red wire on the old switch), then connect it to the black (Common) terminal on the new switch.
Disconnect the black and red travelers, and connect one to each brass terminal on the new switch.
Turn the breaker on, and verify proper operation.
Turn the breaker back off, and mount the switch in the box.
Turn the breaker back on, and again verify proper operation.


Concerns about cutting into roof for attic access? I've spoken with a contractor who proposes cutting a hole in the roof of our circa 1900 house to access the attic for installing insulation.  This intuitively seems like a bad idea--that it could damage the shingles and cause future roof leaks.  A different contractor proposed cutting an opening via an interior closet with plaster ceiling.

Our house was built around 1900, asphalt shingles. Closet ceiling is plaster, so that introduces its own risks. They said that their technique was to first drill a pilot hole in the roof to ensure that they aren't cutting into the framing.

The insulation is going to be rolled, not blown in. So the hole will have to be big enough for the installer to get into the attic and to get the rolled insulation inside.

First, is this a sensible way to gain access to an otherwise inaccessible attic space?  If so, what precautions should be taken to ensure that the roof isn't damaged?  If so, how can I verify that the work is being performed properly?

Nit picking on terminology the roof (or the closet drywall) will be damaged.  That's what cutting a hole is. What you need to concern yourself is will it be repaired properly.

Basically a roof consists of the roof framing, the sheathing and the weatherproof covering.

The framing should not be cut in the roof. It just complicates things too much and isn't necessary. If it accidentally does get cut it can be repaired.

The sheathing depends on when your home was built. Decades ago you may have seen solid wood boards such as 1x6's, later plywood and more recently either plywood or OSB. Plywood and OSB are easier to replace and more people will have experience with it. If it's an older home with solid boards as the decking you may want to avoid messing with it.

The covering, things like asphalt shings are fairly easy to replace. If you have something like a clay tile roof then this would be more difficult but I doubt the contractor would have suggested cutting through the roof if that were the case. I think it would be best to use new shingles when repairing the hole but I'm not a roofer. With new shingles you'll have a patch that looks different than the rest of the roof.

Cutting through walls is similar in that there is framing, drywall then drywall compound over seams and finally paint. Much easier to repair and  if something goes wrong with the repair you don't have to worry about a leak.

Going through the interior closet is the safer choice for you, going through the roof probably makes attic access easier for the contractor and could be less messy for you since all the cutting and running of insulation hoses happens outside.

Since your walls are plaster it could make the repair more complicated but the repair can also be made with drywall, shims and maybe a little extra mud to even things out. It may not come out as could than properly repairing the plaster but in a closet I wouldn't mind too much myself. The other option is to cut out a proper sized attic access and install a hatch. To be code compliant the opening is larger than the 16" OC the ceiling framing probably is (I believe minimum is 24"x30" but double check). That would involve adding some framing around the hole to accommodate it. Not that big a deal but might be something to consider if you'd like to have access to that attic area in the future. The larger hole should also make it easier for the contractor to bring up insulation.

I personally would feel more comfortable with cutting a hole in the drywall than the roof. If you like the contractor/equipment/insulation from the guy that wants to go through the roof you can probably tell him you'd rather he go in through an interior wall and not make any holes in your roof. He'd probably agree to it.


What compound should be used for base skim coat? My apartment has plaster walls with some minor cracks, all of which I've repaired with fiberglass mesh + plaster. I've sanded all repairs, washed/degreased the walls, and primed with Zinsser 123.

Now I'm ready to skim coat; the top coat will be EasySand 90, but I'm not sure what to use for the base skim coat; my options so far:

Joint Compound, premixed (Greed Lid)
Durabond
Durabond OR JC (premixed) + Plaster of Paris (3/1 ratio)

Option 1 is probably the easiest, but premix tends to shrink more than powder. Option 2 avoids that problem, but Durabond is not ideal for skim coat, at least not according to the manufacturer. I like option 3, but plaster cures so fast, unless I work quickly with small batches it will be a mess. I tested 1 TSP of baking soda with 1 CUP of plaster, managed to double curing time, I'm just not sure if using baking soda for a plaster skim coat will stand the test of time.

Any suggestions?

I've been a drywall pro for 30+ years and I currently run my own drywall repair business.  Since I mostly do very small jobs and repairs I have found ONE product that I use for everything that calls for non fast setting drywall mud, and that is a product called Plus 3, by USG.  You might not find that exact product in your area, but try looking for a lightweight all purpose.  The reason I use this is it has low shrinkage, works well for taping, coating, and texturing.  I spray it for orange peels, etc, and hand apply textures like skip trowel, and it does it all well.  I dislike green lid all purpose for anything except taping as it's harder to sand and shrinks more.

I do us a LOT of durabond type products, although I use the USG Easy Sand 5,20 or 45 minute hot mud. Note that durabond is a brand name used by many like kleenex is used for tissue paper.  Here, we often use the term hot mud instead.  But I would ONLY recommend it if you are very skilled since it is VERY hard to sand, despite the name of easy sand.  Although in thin layers it sand ok.  But if you apply too much it's pretty difficult to sand off, whereas the Plus 3 is incredibly easy to sand.  And the hot mud costs much more, is difficult to mix up requires constant cleaning of tools every 20-90 minutes, and can give you fits with lumps, etc.  Box mud mixes easily, goes on smooth, and sands easy.

The reason to use hot mud is the faster it sets up the less it shrinks, and the quicker you can apply the next coat.  But I almost always finish the final coat with plus 3 for ease of sanding.


1999 Goodman furnace modeld GSMS060-3 Furnace goes through the normal start up process but after 5 minutes the flames go out and I hear a click in the induction motor not the main fan.

What could I check.

I have taken out the flame sensor and cleaned it and disconnected the thermostat and twisted red and white wire at the thermostat together..

Try by-passing the hi-limit on the furnace.  Sounds like it may be weak.  If this helps, replace it. When you say that you cleaned you flame sensor, what do you mean?  You need to buff it good with cleaning pad.  Also follow the flame sensor circuit, making sure all connections are tight.


Do I leave this insulation up? I am researching how to finish one room in my basement, and not sure what to do with what I think is vapor barrier or wall wrap insulation. Its only on two of the four walls which I assume is because those walls are facing the outside. I watched a video that said I should not remove it because its already a r11 value and I would simply measure off 5 1/2 to 6 inches and snap my line. After that im not sure whats next and couldn't find any info. Most DIY sites show rigid foam as the insulation directly glued to the cement walls then furred out for the drywall, which was pretty straight forward. So basically:

Do I leave the Wall wrap up?
If I do, is 5 1/2 to 6 inches correct?
After I frame it do I then use the rigid foam sheets?
Should I just take it down and do the Rigid Foam?

Remove it unless you can verify that that plastic covering is vapor-permeable. Vapor barriers have no place in basement walls. Terrible idea. Those exterior walls should be insulated with rigid foam boards air sealed to the floor and rim joist. Then you can cover the boards up with drywall or an insulated stud wall.


Condo Sound Insulation, Warranty Similar to this, but not a duplicate: How can I determine the STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating for my condo walls and ceiling?

The  goal: Verify if I have a claim towards the developer who says it's an unwarrantable issue that I can hear my neighbors cough, talk, use their micro-wave oven or even open close their fridge door.
How can I investigate this?

Ask the developer to provide the "sound transmission class" rating that was specified ( and guaranteed if it was ) and how that was implemented.
I.E. what products or building techniques were used in the condo to achieve those spec's. Then cut the wall open to see if indeed that is true ???
Was there a guarantee in writing that you would not hear a certain decibel level of sound or the everyday living of the people in the adjoining units?
Attend the association meetings and Talk to other owners to see if they have the same issue.
Consult an attorney


Why are my bathroom light and fan wired to the same switch? In my apartment my bathroom light and fan comes on at the same time. Is that standard for an apartment?

Many apartment owners wire the fan and light to a single switch. The reason I have done it is to limit moisture build up. Not all renters are responsible enough to turn on the fan while using the shower. Failing to do so can cause moisture to build up and allow mold to form.


How do I prevent ice stalagmites from building up on the furnace exhaust? I have a high efficiency furnace that exhausts via a pvc pipe out the side of the house, the trouble is the moisture from the exhaust forms an ice stalagmite in my driveway in the cold weather.

Are there ways to prevent this ice from building up (other than throwing salt on it twice a day)?

Attempt No.1

Acquire small plastic container.
Drill small holes around base to allow water to flow out.
Fill with salt.
Place under exhaust vent.
Wait and see what happens.

I'm hoping the moisture in the exhaust will drip into the container of salt, and then run out carrying salt with it.  This might have the added benefit of dispersing salt to the nearby area, thereby preventing snow and ice from forming in the vicinity.

The down side is that instead of an ice stalagmite, I will have a plastic bucket in the driveway which will get in the way while shoveling/snow blowing.


Sheet rock in home garages Is there a standard for installing sheet rock in garages that are attached to homes. The builder told me that they don't finish sheet rock in garages the same as inside homes. My home is a new build.
Sheet rock in garage is a mess.

Sheet rock in garage is a mess.

That is the standard, unless your contract specified an interior quality finish. It will be taped and mudded and possibly given a coat of paint.

The good news is that you can practice sanding and finishing and texturing drywall in your garage with no fear of messing it up.


How can I make a door open or close depending on the door position? Almost every door needs to be either open or closed, rarely do we need it half open. Since the doors (not the band) in my home are old, some of them tend to open or close automatically because their hinges are loose or slightly rotated. So some doors tend to open/close and usually not as desired.

I want to create a mechanism that will force the door to go towards its nearest position (open or closed). Something like this:

When door is left in the open area, it should open (even slowly) and stay there, and the opposite when it is left in the red area. I don't care if it will completely close, but at least be moved to that end.

Specs:

The mechanism should be nearly silent
It should be cheap (less than 25e/30$)
Should be installable to the existing doors.
I don't care if I'll have to drill door/floor or case.
It shouldn't use electricity. Only mechanical power.
I don't want to use door stoppers, this is the obvious solution.

I have considered somehow using strong magnets (I have several from broken hard disks) in order to move to the nearest end, but since I'm not an engineer I cannot come up with a design. Any ideas?

Doors tend to open or close automatically not because their hinges are loose or slightly rotated, but because their hinge pins are not plumb.  The doors could have been hung that way intentionally (or not), or their walls could have tilted as the house aged.

To have a door move on its own to the nearest open/closed position, the center of mass of the door needs to be at its high point when the door is at threshold for open/close, which in your diagram would be 60 degrees.

Imagine that the dark line at 60 degrees in your drawing is a vertical geometric plane strecthing from floor to ceiling.  Both (or all 3 if that is the number) of the hinge pins must be in this plane, with the lower hinge pin 'sticking out' into the room.  Thus hung, a free swinging door in a room with no significant air drafts will behave as you desire.

To accomplish this, you may need to do one or both of these:

A) shim between the hinge leaf and its mortise in the jamb

B) move the hinge screws left or right by filling the screw holes with wood splinters/dowels + glue and then re-drill pilot holes the the left or right of the previous holes.

Some ideas for shimming are:

1) A couple layers of duct tape on the back of the hinge leaf.

2) A layer or two of paperboard or non-corrugated cardboard scavenged from discarded packaging.

3) Simpson tie plates, trimmed to fit.

4) Apply spots of a thick spackle or wood filler, then install the hinge leaf, compressing the filler to achieve an exact fit. To prevent the hing from adhering to the spackle,  a) wax the back of the hinge leaf with a candle, or b) use a layer of kitchen-type wax paper, or c) wrap the leaf with kitchen-type plastic wrap.  When dry, remove the the hinge leaf and fill any voids with additional spackle.

Note 1: The farther 'out into the room' the lower pin, the greater the driving force.

Note 2: The heavier the door, the 'closer in' the lower pin can be to achieve the same opening/closing force.

Note 3: For uncommonly tight hinges, the door will swing freely only if the hinges are mounted such that the pins are co-linear as well.  A bit of lubricant on the pins may help in this regard in intermediate cases.

Note 4: For walls/jambs that are severely out of plumb, the jambs themselves will need to be first reset to plumb.

Note 5: 1972 Patent for Center-of-Mass Hinges


Why are there two layers of dry wall in my ceiling, and how can I patch it? The fan in my bathroom died. We bought a replacement that's a bit bigger. The original was nailed to a beam in the ceiling and required me to cut out some drywall to remove.

When removing the old fan, the air duct came loose. I need to open up the ceiling a little more to reattach that to the where ever it was attached originally.

I'm gonna have to put in a piece of drywall ~18"x36". How in god's name can you do more than just fill in little holes when you have no studs to lay new drywall directly onto? And how was this drywall attached to begin with!?

We've done a double layer of drywall to slow the spread of fire in multi-unit developments, specifically between the ceiling and attic space. However, judging by the gap, I'm guessing that you might have this done as a retrofit to block sound. There will be somewhere that the drywall is attached, and it's likely going to be metal tracks running every 16". Normally, we'd attach the tracks directly to the joists, but if this is was a decision made after the home was built, they may have elected to go over the drywall instead of making a mess removing the existing drywall.

If you want to patch the drywall, you can either install additional blocking between the drywall at this opening to give you something to screw into, or you can cut back the drywall to the current tracks and attach your patch there.

Edit: If you decide to use blocking between the drywall, some thin wood would be be easy to install, and you're not getting a lot of sound protection at this spot anyway. You'll want a piece of wood behind each sheet of drywall, and then screw through the drywall/wood/drywall/wood to give you a solid edge to work with. You can get longer drywall screws that can make it through the entire assembly in one shot. If you go with the long screws, I'd recommend using a clamp to hold it tight.


Question about roof vent In my roof attic I have a 2" kitchen vent just inside the attic on one side of the house, the main 3" stack which vents out through the roof is on the opposite side of the house. They are about 24 feet apart.

Can I connect them or is there a restriction on a vent pipe distance to a stack?

The only things that should limit you are number of fixture units being vented (dfu), and the required slope of horizontal vent pipes (1/4" per foot for 2" pipe).
Drain Fixture Units
If too many fixtures are being vented by this vent, the size of the vent will have to be increased.
Since it sounds like you're venting a residential kitchen, there's likely only a sink. So you'll probably not have a problem with this.
Grade
Vent pipes must be graded and connected, so that they drain back to the drainage pipe by gravity.  Which means, any horizontal sections of the 2" pipe will have to have a slope of 1/4" per foot toward the fixture drain.
This could be a problem depending on the surrounding structure, since the pipe will be 6" higher at the stack end.
1/4" * 24' = 6"


What length of posts do I need to get a deck 5 feet above ground level? I've read that deck posts have to 4ft underground to get past the frost line. With a 6' x6 [ed: not sure if this mean to refer to 6x6" or something else?] which means you only have 2ft above ground.

What if the deck needs to be in the air 5ft  -- would I have to get 10ft post?

You should use concrete footers in concrete form tubes buried in the ground deep enough to meet the code in your area. ( below frost line ). You need to use the apropriate size for your soil and the weight of the deck you are building. The concrete footer would extend  above the ground by a few inches, you would then use a Simpson post bracket anchored into the concrete to set your post on/in. This keeps the bottom of the post from sitting in any water that may accumulate on the top of the footer.

The height of the post will be the distance from the top of the bracket on the concrete footer to the bottom of the beam that caries the deck joists. You will need the determine that length once you you have the footers in place and you have the height of the deck joist and the dimensions of the beam you are using.


why did my mower suddenly start running slower? This mower has an odd history, but appeared to be in good shape. It was given to me by a friend, who picked it up from the curb in his neighborhood (it's a nice neighborhood). I don't know if he found out why it was being tossed out. He just picked it up as a repair project to do with his son, and then found out I was looking for one, and offered it to me.

It's a Briggs & Stratton 6.5 Hp engine. Looks to be only a few years old and in good condition. Friend put in a new air filter, spark plug, and I think also changed the oil. I checked the oil and it looks cleaner and new-ish.

I've used it several times this year. It's been running great, starts right on the first pull.  Suddenly at the end of my last session, the rpms dropped but it kept running. When I turned it off I could smell gas a bit. Next time it started fine, but is still running slow. I managed to finish the yard with it running slow.

I've check the air filter and spark plug. Both look clean. There was a little oil or gas residue at the bottom of the air filter. There was a little oil on the threads of the spark plug screw, but the sparky end was clean.

I'm just trying to see if there's anything else I can do or check before getting into the carburetor.

Any ideas?

In my experience, unless the engine is running roughly idle problems are usually related to the throttle and governor.

From your description, it sounds like you may have a problem with the governor spring that tensions the governor vane to the throttle body.  These can get stretched out and lose tension creating a slow idle.


How should I fit cementboard underlayment around a supply pipe collar? I am getting ready to put down Cement Board Underlayment (CBU) on the floor for a tile job, and the toilet water supply pipe that comes through the floor has a plastic collar around it.

It will interfere with the CBU.  How do the pros handle a situation like this?

You have several acceptable options:

Remove the collar and rely on mortar to retain the pipe.
Remove the collar and apply silicone to the hole to retain the pipe.
Chisel out a space in the subfloor for the collar and lower it so that it's flush.
Cut your cementboard around it and mortar over it (or just tile over the void).


Unsure how to hang awning on garage, nor what bolts to use I bought a light awning set to put on the side of my garage, and it came with the following anchor bolts:

My garage has a wooden panel attached to wooden studs inside the wall and I am trying to figure out the best way to attach to the outside. Here are three potential options:

Because of the stud width (16in) and the awning bolt widths (18in), only one set of the three bolt holes will line up on a stud. I like the middle option for that reason, but notice that both holes won't fit. I am happy to build a wooden spacer).

Question 1: Which option for mounting makes the most sense?

Question 2: What bolts should I use if I have to replace the concrete anchor bolts?

The middle photo will be best with a spacer underneath. Since the top screw is doing the lions share of supporting the awning then the spacer is really just keeping the bracket solid and not holding as much weight but use a screw that will get through the shingles and into the sheathing.

Pre drill pilot holes and insert an outdoor rated caulking into each hole to keep water out.

Use ledger bolts meant for deck ledger board in place of the anchors.

Make sure the white trim board is fastened into structure/studs.


Where do I attach the grounding conductor to my bedroom light fixture? I have a problem, I broke the center piece that holds the glass part on my light fixture in my room. I purchased a replacement and removed the two screws holding my fixture on to the ceiling. Now I need to put it back together. I see that there is the ground wire but I did not notice where was attached to. Does that wire need to be screwed in with the centerpiece?

It's not clear exactly what your situation is, and I'm not sure if you have a ground in the supply, or on the fixture, or both.  So I'll try to cover all possible situations.
No grounds
If there are not ground wires, do nothing. You're done.
Metal box
Ground in supply, ground on fixture
If there is a ground in the feeder cable, and a ground wire or screw on the fixture.  Attach both the supply ground and the fixture ground to the box, using either a green screw or a ground clip

If the ground screw, or clip is not rated to accept multiple wires (most aren't). Use a grounding twist-on wire connector to connect all the ground wires, then attach the pigtail to the box using a green screw or ground clip.

Ground in supply, no ground on fixture
If you have a metal box, a ground wire in the feeder cable, but no ground wire/screw attached to the fixture.  Attach the feeder ground wire to the metal box using a green screw or a ground clip.
In this case, when the fixture is attached to the box it should be bonded through the attachment method.
No ground in supply, ground on fixture
If there is no ground in the feeder cable, but there is a ground wire or screw attached to the fixture.  Attach the ground wire of the fixture to the box, using a green screw or ground clip.  In this situation the outlet may be feed with Type AC or MC cable, and the box may be grounded on the exterior of the box. Or the outlet may not be grounded at all, in which case the fixture ground is useless.
Nonmetallic box
Ground in supply, ground on fixture
If you have a ground in the feeder cable, and  a ground screw or wire on the fixture.  Use a twist-on wire connector, or crimp connector to connect all grounds together.
Ground in supply, no ground on fixture
If there is a ground wire in the feeder cable, but no ground screw or wire on the fixture. If a fixture strap is used, attach the ground wire to the fixture strap using a green screw or ground clip.

If a fixture strap is not used, leave the ground wire folder neatly in the back of the box.
No ground in supply, ground on fixture
If you don't have a ground in the feeder cable, but there is a ground wire or screw on the fixture.  Don't make any ground connections.


what should be "ideal" floor coloring in a bright area? I am planning to go for white tiles . I live in a place where there is a lot of light (near the equator) . Will white be good or should I go for little darker colors (since white reflects a lot of light) ?

edit : This is not a question to choose color, but to understand light vs dark .

Like you say, brighter tiles make the room brighter (and apparently "larger"). Darker make it... darker and smaller. The "brightness" also depends on window size and orientation (relative to what direction the sun shines from) and room size.

You need to balance whatever is your taste with all these factors. The rest is subjective. Some people like darker rooms even if they're small, others prefer to make them as bright and apparently large as possible at all times.


How to handle 1 inch gap between bathtub tile and drywall? I have a new tub put in, and tile to go with it in my tub area.  The tile is only in my tub area.  I have a one inch gap between the tile and the drywall.  How do I make it so this edge looks nice.  On the other side of the tub, the gap is about 1 inch.  The bathroom is small, and the one inch gap will stick out.

There is a 1" quarter round ceramic available. Local home centers here stock it.

You could also rip down bullnose edging.

If you're bold enough, you could try to mix up some colored sanded grout on the stiff side, and try to run a chamferred edge detail.

Lastly, although it might be ugly, you could install vinyl quarter round.


What is the extra pipe going into my sump pump pit? My sump pump has been going off about every 3 minutes in the last 2 days. I need to open the pit to see why it is doing that. I'm unable to open the lid as I see another big pipe going into it. Please see the picture below (click for full size):

1) Does anyone know what is that larger pipe on the right going into the hole? I know the smaller one takes the water outside.

2) Also, how can I open the lid with that larger pipe in there? Do I just slide it up? I don't want to damage it and this is the reason for this question.

3) Finally, does the power plug look fine or do I need like another adapter before plugging it into the outlet?

You have two questions here,  First, I think the larger of the two pipes could be a vent pipe connected to a radon exhaust system.  Does this pipe connect to any other pipes or a box with  a radon sensor?

Second item, the receptacle shown is a single use type. Sump pumps will often nuisance-trip GFCI receptacles. Much the same as a refrigerator is put on a single non-GFCI receptacle to prevent nuisance tripping, a sump pump or other motor loads are also put on non-GFCI circuits. This is OK if the receptacle is a single use dedicated to the specific appliance.