Does electrical outlet in man made quartz backsplash require box extender by code? I have a 3/4" thick man made quartz backsplash in the kitchen.  The electrical box cut outs are not quite big enough for the box extender.  The electrician says I need the box extender and that the backsplash guys often have to trim their installs for them to fit.  The backsplash guy says he has done 100s of houses and never had to trim a cut out for an electrician.
Is this a code requirement if so what is the idea behind the code?  Is it a fire concern since the box could have an air gap between the backsplash and the drywall.  Could I fill that with a fiber reinforced drywall setting compound?
There are two 3 gang cut outs in this installation.  I tried a silicon carbide grinding stone in a 1/4" 20k rpm air grinder which did very little material removal.  I also tried a rotozip XB-FTC1 which also did very little.
The box behind the quartz backsplash is a grey electrical box.  The electrican has tried to use the Arlington BE-3 which when forced into the hole is distorted in the horizontal direction as the cut out is not wide enough to accomodate the box extender.
I did have the backsplash guy come out and I had an angle grinder with a 3 3/8" blade.  He couldn't think of what tools he could use to do it so he gave my tool a try.  The blade did a good job cutting into the sides but then the backsplash guy wasn't sure how to safely cleanup the corners so he said he'd think about what tools he could use.  He also marked up the backsplash a bit with the grinder blade protector and gashed the quartz a bit outside of his cut which is hopefully still going to be hidden by the cover plate.
Given the electrical code issue pointed out below by NoSparksPlease what should I do?  I could try the XB-FTC1 in my 30k dewalt cut out tool but given the very small amount of material that was coming off via the die grinder I think it would take hours.  Any tool recommendations to cleanup the corners where the angle grinder couldn't get without over cutting the hole?
I'll re-post the hole cleanup / recommendation question separately as I've received the code question answer.

I don't know what all the issues are that influence the code, but here is what it says:
2017 NEC 314.20 Flush-Mounted Installations. Installations within or behind a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, including boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate, shall be made so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1∕4 in.).
If your electrician is trying to fit an Arlington BE-1 which often does not fit well maybe he could try a Raco 976.


Sizing a circulator pump in a closed loop heating system with multiple zones I'm thinking through an install of a new combination boiler in my house, and am confused with respect to picking the correct size circulator pump.  I've found a few different references (e.g. https://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/SelectingCirculators.pdf) which lay out that you need:

A sufficiently high flow rate through the loop to heat the home, and ensure proper functioning of the air separator
A sufficiently low flow rate to avoid noise or undue strain on the pipes

As a rough example, let's say I have 3 heating zones with 3/4" copper pipe in my house.  To make it as simple as possible, let's just say each zone is identical (same head loss, etc.).  I calculate I need 12 gpm to heat the whole house with a 20F drop between supply and return water.  When all 3 zone valves are open, the flow is divided among the zones and there is a flow of 4 gpm through each, which is fine for 3/4" copper pipe.  I would expect if only one zone valve is open, that I would end up with 12 gpm through the single zone, which is way too high for the same pipe.  What am I missing?

You may consider
boiler maximum power (30kW = 26kcal/h ), because you must be able to handle the heat your boiler can produce at full power.

difference in temperature between flow and return [usually 10°C, 20°C on condensing boilers] 20F (11K) is ok for standard boiler. If you have a condensing one I suggest you to increase the delta to 20K to both run your boiler at bigger efficency and reduce electricity need at the pump]

and get a pump that can hold that flow, in our case [10K delta] 10kcal/kg or about 2.6mc/h [1.3mc/h for 20K delta]

[26kcal/[1kcal/kg K] * [1Kg/L]] of water, then measure maximum water column you need on your system and choose a pump that can handle that flow for water column you have.

You should get zone valves with 'built in by-pass', so the flow is the same in any configuration (3 zone open 860L/h all trough the rads, if two zones are closed you have 1700L/h flowing trough by-passes and 860L/h flowing trough the only zone that is open and so on).

Anyway, 2.6mc/h (similar to your 12gal/min) won't fit well over 3/4" (20mm internal diameter) pipe because of excessive water speed (around 2m/s) that results in noisy pipes, it also will have quite high head (about 20cm wc per metre of pipe)

Anyway, flow [mc/h] = max power [kcal/h] / deltaT [K] (I use calories because 1Kcal heats 1Kilo of water 1K making calculation easy)


Power cord for a electric range I have recently purchased a house that was built in 1997 in The state of Arizona. I am purchasing a new electric range and wanted to know if a 3 or 4 prong power cord would be required since I am unable to move the range to see for myself?

Thanks
Joe

Probably a 3 prong, based on the age. But you can't be sure until you move it. I usually buy both, and then return the one I don't need.


Hot Tub Disconnect Box 220V with a neutral and ground/No neutral in main panel I am trying to install a portable hot tub in my back yard.  Starting at the tub, I ran two hots and a neutral plus ground back to the 60 amp GFCI in my disconnect box.  Then, I ran the same wires back to my main panel, but my main house panel does not have a neutral bar, what can I do?

Connect the white wire to the bar the other white wires are connected to -- it is not rare for a main service panel to have a combined neutral and ground busbar, as that is the (only!) point where neutral and ground connect.


How to fix a vanity mold built up as a result of valve leak? I noticed a valve leak too late and now part of the vanity has built up some mold. I would like to avoid replacing the entire thing obviously. So I would like to understand how (un)safe it is to keep it as is or is there a way to somehow fix it without replacing the vanity.

If the particle board is stable I would suggest spraying the affected areas down with hydrogen peroxide.
The hydrogen peroxide will kill mold and not smell as bad as using bleach. (Bleach will also kill the Mold but may cause more damage than peroxide.)
After you are sure the mold is gone if the wood is stable it should be ok. Left untreated this could cause a health risk.


How do I connect my whole house humidifier to my furnace? Connecting Desert spring Humidifier to the furnace:

Do I eliminate the 24V transformer that came with it? The furnace Keeprite has the the electronic board says Humidifier W1 and C.
where can I find if the board is 24V?

You've asked several questions here.

Checking if it's 24V AC

First of all, by far the vast majority of furnaces use 24VAC for control wiring. However, it's always better to be sure rather than make assumptions, so there are several ways to do this:

Look at the spec sheet or manual for your model
Look for labels on the control board, probably where the transformer lines come in
Look for labels on the transformer itself
Use a multimeter to measure between C and R terminals

Update:

Since you mentioned you have a 9GMXT furnace, it has a 24VAC dedicated humidifier terminal. The manual states:

  The 24 VAC HUM terminal is energized when the low pressure closes during a call for heat. [..] Connect a 24 VAC humidifier to the 24 VAC HUM terminal and C screw terminal
  strip on the control board thermostat strip.

It's rated at 0.5 Amps max. The Desert Springs motor is 24VAC 4W (I had to go check on mine) which is 0.17 amps, so it's perfectly fine.

Connecting

In general, by connecting between R and C, the thermostat motor will only have the ability to come on when the furnace is actively heating (it won't come on if the fan is set to 'On' mode, or if the air conditioner is on). Since you have a Humidifier terminal, instead of R you'd connect to that.

You should also connect the humidistat that comes with it in-line with this wire (doesn't matter wire is which) as per the instructions.

Water line

One more note: don't use the saddle valve that came with it (or if you do: install a proper in-line ball valve and never turn the saddle valve's "valve" again). Saddle valves are notoriously bad and will leak after you use them a few times. Better to just buy a valve with a 1/4" compression fitting and use that.

I installed the same humidifier (DS32000) a couple years ago, including the auto-flush valve. It has been working great and I'm very happy with it. It keeps the humidity level very consistent -- though I kind of wish I had an electronic control for it that would adjust based on outside humidity/temperature too (EDIT: I now have this, see below): as it has gotten really cold out in the past few weeks, I've had to turn it down to avoid condensation on the windows.

Each year I use some vinegar to clean out the valve, basin, and drum (tip: I take the curved plastic lid off, turn it upside down, pour in a mixture of half vinegar, half water, then place the drum in it and rotate it every 10 minutes or so until the whole thing is done). Better to do this at the end of the heating season.

EDIT: This year, I installed an Ecobee thermostat and ran an extra wire so it controls the humidifier. It has a setting to automatically regulate humidity based on outside weather (which it gets via internet, not a real sensor, unfortunately), and it has actually worked really well. No more condensation, but it kept the humidity as high as it could. I adjusted it a bit when I first installed it but haven't touched it in months.


Condenser fan and compressor don't start, electrical looks good though? After replacing the fan, starting capacitor, and running capacitor, the system ran normally for ~1 day. Now nothing is starting.

I got a fieldpiece multimeter and tested all of new capacitors, connections, motor ohms, continuity, and current. All measurements look good, but current isn't flowing more than 0.05a, and capacitors don't seem to be charging.

There is 240v going to it, not sure what else to attempt, any suggestions are welcome.

Goodman gx160481fa

My advice would be that you should have called an HVAC company first since this is what they are "schooled" in. I have to ask,  why did you replace the fan and compressor capacitors? Were they bad or were you just guessing on a repair effort. When you say 240 is going to it, what do you mean? Where are you measuring the 240 volts. Is it at the incoming power supply or at the starter/contactor going to the compressor? Is the contactor energizing? Do you have 24 volts at the coil of the contactor? Is the fan running in the indoor air handler? The problem could be a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse (now showing my age),at the 24 volt power source. Please call someone familiar with A/C service before you do something you can"t fix. These units can hurt you. Hope this helps.


Recessed lighting 10 x 10 Bedroom I have a lake home that has a very small bedroom we are remodeling. Because of the room size the bed actually is located in one corner of the room. Currently have purchased four 4 inch recessed lights. As you might guess there is a recessed light right over the top of the bed close to the Head. Wondering if I should just use three lights in each of the other corners or would I be smart to try to use a wall washer or eyeball in the can over the bed? We do have a table lamp next to the bed so it's not like we would be without reading light. Other three cans I roughly 30in off each corner

Put a dimmer on the room and put a lower wattage over the bed if it is bothering you.   Trying out a few bulbs with a dimmer you should be able to find something that dims pretty low compared to the others.   I would not be moving electrical and lights based on current room configuration unless you are going to be there a long long time.


What type of sand is under my flagstone pavers? I also have this question:
Replacing pavers with grass, what do I do with the sand?

See attached photos, the brick like piece in the second photo near the shovel tip can be crumbled (with effort) in my hand.   Is it possible there is some concrete mixed with this sand, or is it just compacted so tightly that it takes on a brick like form?   Should I heed the previous advice and just mix the sand with the underlying topsoil and add some compost?

I took a sample to the local landscape supply store and they said it was most likely base rock topped with concrete sand that has decomposed over the years.  The reason it clumps is because soil is now mixed in with the rock (even though not visible).    A friend suggested it might be decomposed granite, but the supply store said DG wouldn't clump.


Which mounting screws to use for Ikea Hoppvals? I recently bought these Ikea blinds (HOPPVALS).
To my surprise when I opened the package there was no mounting screws to use or any recommendation of what kind of screws would be the appropriate ones to use.

Any recommendations?

There is much info  on how to mount blinds on the internet.

This type of blind USUALLY  mount inside the window casing ,to the top of the window casing which is typically wood. If so then 1"  wood screws would be sufficient to deal with the weight of of the blinds and the mechanical forces of pulling them down.

BUT the photo on the IKEA site seams to indicate that the bracket is mounted to the wall, If this is how you will be mounting them ( and your wall is made of drywall ) then you you need to know if there is structure in the wall at the mounting location. If there is structure, stud or header etc,  then any good wood screw ( at least 1 1/4" ) will work. If not you will need a toggle anchor to deal with the forces involved.

I prefer Toggler anchors.

As manassehkatz says, you need to know what your wall is made of in order to know how to proceed.


Is it common for vertical joints to not be filled? We live in a high-rise apartment, and the shower room cinder-block wall is covered by sheet rock. The wall separates our apartment from our neighbors' apartment.  Anyway, I noticed that the blocks above the drop-ceiling seemed to have no vertical joints. I imagine the hidden part of the wall below the drop-ceiling is the same.  I can almost put my small finger into the spaces.  Is this type of block-laying common?  Or should we think of looking for a new home?

No this is not common.  In some areas it might even violate code as there might not be fire separation.

However to say does this mean anything structurally... who knows without full details of the building.  Unless you live in a third world country I doubt that there would be a building with more than 10 stories that relies on cinder blocks at all for support.  Most interior walls in high rises are made to be taken down and moved if needed.  Most buildings rely on exterior walls and key points usually in the center square of the building.

Why is there a gap in yours?  Maybe it is for expansion - but then this should have fire rated caulking.  Maybe the workers were lazy and knew it would be covered... who knows.  Should you be worried?  No.

Note:  You should not be worried about the building falling over.  However if there is smoke coming in yes you should be worried about both your health (air quality) and fire will spread faster (well I would gather that it isn't the fire itself, it seems the smoke from a fire could spread and be hazardous easily in your situation).


How to make the seam of a Quartz counter top disappear as much as possible? We went counter top shopping this past weekend and was looking at Quartz counters. I asked about creating an L shaped counter and the rep showed me one in the showroom and I saw a seam! The counter in the showroom was a very busy style...there were colored swatches of materials throughout.  Perhaps that was a hard pattern to make an 'invisible' seam.

The counters we picked was essentially a white counter with a little bit of grey and brown in it.  Imagine swirling a few drops of color into white paint...
Maybe this will be an easy one to hide the seam.

Anyhow, what is the technique to hide a seam?  Make sure the joining compound that you use is the same color? Is there any sort of blending that we can do with the joining compound so that it blends with the left and right pieces of the counter?

The only way to truly have a seam-free countertop of that shape is to cast it out of concrete. Since you've already chosen quartz, that doesn't seam like an option.

Embrace the seam, don't hide it. It's un-hideable, so anything short of perfection (which is impossible here) will be a disappointment and you will feel bitter about your multi-thousand-dollar expenditure because you didn't get what you wanted. Instead, change your expectations and design the countertop so that the seam is proudly visible and visually attractive. A diagonal seam at the corner could look nice.


How to clean this sandstone wall? The sandstone wall is turning brown and black in places and I’m not sure how to restore is back to original appearance. Are there any cleaners which can be used? A picture is attached.

Thanks

Pressure clean it with at least a 3000 PSI power washer. Spray first with  two parts water to one part bleach. This has worked for me countless times for dirty stone. Your stone looks pretty darn good and doesn't appear to need any cleaning.


Circuit breaker + panel selection -- make and breaker series? Is there a compelling reason to choose one type/brand of breaker & panel (Eaton CH, Eaton BR, Square-D QO, Square-D HOM, Siemens, GE) over another when putting a new electrical panel and breakers in?  Or is availability (I am loading my panel with dual-function CAFCI/GFCI breakers on all 15 and 20A branch circuits, provided no shared neutrals turn up that is) the sole consideration I should take into account when deciding on one brand of breakers over another?

I am of the strong opinion that for a residential application it almost does not matter what brand you choose. They are all nearly the same, even QO and CH series. Sure, copper buss is nice, but not mandatory. I have seen and installed pretty much every major brand in the last 25 years or so, they are ALL ok.

I would choose something that you can get breakers and parts locally and easily.


Sizing a Well Pressure Tank - Size Change Recently went downstairs to find a floor full of water near my HW Heater, softener and well pressure tank. Checked all 3 units and found multiple pinholes in the side of the pressure tank. Time for replacing. Also possibly time to increase size. Want some answers/opinions before I do it.
**Current tank is a Goulds V200 (65 gallon). According to their site the drawdown for my 40/60 switch is 17.4 gallons.
**Current pump is 3/4 hp Jacuzzi that produces 18 gpm according to the installation tag on its disconnect box.
Researching how to size a tank lead me to understand 18 gpm should be sized at 1.5 gallons of drawdown per 1 gpm. That's a drawdown of 27 gallons. Seems like I'm short cycling my pump with its current 17.4 drawdown.
Looking at sizing up to an 86 or 119 gallon tank. The 86 has a drawdown of 23.03 gallons and the 119 has a drawdown of 31.86 gallons according to the manufacturer specs. My pump seems to be right smack in the middle of these. Would it be fine to move all the way up to the 119 gallon almost doubling my drawdown capacity? The pump would run longer per cycle but cycle less often.
Drawbacks?
Pros and cons?
Assumptions: Not concerned about tank cost at this time. There is proper space for the 119.
Thank you.

As large as you can fit and afford is sensible. Fewer cycles and longer run-times is best for pump life. You can also use multiple tanks, but if you have space and can afford the big one, go for it.


7w LED bulb in a 5W led fitting in wall sconces to go above my bed and I want to get some smart bulbs to connect to my Alexa but I want them to have a filament bulb. I found these Philips HUE bulbs that I like: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SNGBWG4/ref=crt_ewc_title_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

My light fitting says that they need a 5W LED or MAX 42W Halogen bulb, but the Philips hue bulbs are a 7W LED but their Incandescent Equivalent is 40 watts. Can I use these bulbs? or do I need to find new bulbs?

Yes, these will work fine. The "5 watt" is the minimum for your fixture to dim. The 42 watt halogen maximum is, for the most part, a heat maximum and led bulbs don't generate anywhere near the heat of a halogen bulb. This is a 220 volt bulb.


Reinforcing a Load Bearing Wall I just finished removing 100 year old plaster/lathe combination over a long load bearing wall in my basement.  It revealed quite a bit of termite damage to a load bearing wall and header going across the bottom of the house.

The current structure is a bunch of 2x6 studs holding up 2 stacked 2x6s across the top as the header.  I know this isn't to any sort of current code, but I'm looking to shore up the existing setup for the short term until I can do a full replacement.

I'm wondering what the right process is here.  Do I cut a couple 6x6s to just slightly longer than the current studs and pound them in?  Should I mechanically secure them to the header somehow?  I've found plenty of info on sistering joists, but little on the right way to do that for a load bearing wall.

Those are 2x6's?  Not "old school" non-dimensioned 2x4's?  From my experience, most lath was about 1" wide... and if that lath is 1" it would seem to scale those to 2x4.

Regardless, yes you can confidently shore up that wall by creating a temporary wall adjacent to it.  If it is a basement floor it is likely to be sloped, so studs may have to be cut differently.  I'd recommend attaching a top plate to the bottom of the joists, and place a "floating" bottom plate directly below on the floor.  Cut the studs no more than 1/8" proud of the actual height, align the top under the floor joist, and pound in the bottom.  Since it is going in at an angle, the edges will dig in some, but at only an 1/8" long it will be minimal.

You will likely have to repeat the process on the opposite side of the wall, since the joists are "lapped", and the other side is essentially independent.  You'll know that you've accomplished your goal when the original stud starts to feel "loose", with only the nails holding it in place.  If you have a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) you'll know the weight has been supported when the kerf of a cut through the stud no longer tries to pinch itself shut.  Be wary of this method, though, because if there is still substantial pressure on the stud the kerf will begin to close as you pass the halfway point, which can result in kickback.

The shoring wall(s) should be at least as long as the section you're replacing.  If it is indeed termite damage of the bottom plate, I would wonder how the wood could have supported any weight.  I used to live in Wisconsin, where that type of construction (lath) was very common, as were full basements.  Termites were unheard of, however.

Now I live in South Carolina.... Termite heaven.  However, basements are very rare here... most homes are built on crawl spaces or slabs.  If it is indeed termite damage and not just dry rot, I would highly recommend a thorough investigation of the rest of the house.  The bottom plate in the center of a basement likely wouldn't have been a point of entry unless there is a crack in the floor nearby.  If it was the point of entry, the termites would likely have began tunneling up the studs themselves as the colony grew and spread.

Look for "mud tunnels" or other very well defined tunnels chewed through the wood.  If you find them, expect that they have also munched on other areas of the house.  Hopefully it's just dry rot!


How can I turn the light off on my fujistu halycon split unit I run the A/C at night and the unit has green lights that turn on to indicate its on. How can I turn the lights off without turning the A/C off?

Black electrical tape over the light.  Two layers if it is especially bright.


How to heat proof aluminium windows, prevent heat from entering? Aluminium windows made about 15 years ago. In hot climate, all day sun the frame becomes hot to touch when touched from inside.
What can I do to insulate heat form entering?

I know about accordion shades to keep/buffer the warm air.
I know that I can tint the glass with sun protective/dark film.

Are there any solutions to maybe cover the aluminium frame on the outside to prevent it from heating and transmitting the heat to the inside?

There is not a lot you can do here, to be honest, short of replacing the windows with ones better suited for your climate. Painting or covering the exterior with something of any color other than brilliant white may make things worse since shiny aluminum is reflective and is already rejecting some of the heat, and such coatings may not last.

Planting some shade trees or installing awnings to block the sun may be easier, cheaper, more effective alternatives.


Do I need to glue 2x4 supports for an apron sink? I am replacing an undermount sink with an apron sink. I modified my cabinet and built a support for the apron sink, however I forgot to use glue on the 2X4's and just have them screwed together and to the cabinet vs using glue and screws. Is this OK or should I unscrew everything, add glue, and screw it back together? I am installing a Kholer 5826 sink if it matters.
Image of my supports:

No. If anything you'd use construction adhesive, and not wood glue, but if you've done a good job with the screws glue isn't needed. In fact, it's rarely used in cases like this.
If you find that there's flex in your supports, re-screw it and make sure the boards are dead tight. Spread the screws widely in the vertical.


Does a bathroom exhaust fan have to vent to the outside? Is it normal and/or code compliant to have a bathroom exhaust fan venting to the attic?

I've seen this a couple times now, and the first time I saw this I thought it was very odd.

But I mentioned this to a couple people around here and they thought it was 'normal' for this area (I live in a part of southern California where it is rarely below freezing).

Bathroom vent fans must be vented to the out of doors. Venting this fan into the attic is simply asking for problems.  The excessive moisture will cause condensation on the roof members, insulation and eventually cause mold. It is never OK to vent directly into an attic even if the attic itself is vented.

So, the simple correct answer is NO.  Your friends are misinformed.


installing ecobee SmartThermostat with Voice Control on older home I recently purchased the most recent ecobee Smart Thermostat with Voice Control.  The existing thermostat needs to be updated.  However, I'm not sure if I'm able to install this without installing the power extender kit (PEK).  The existing wiring is attached.  The current thermostat is a free NV energy smart thermostat which is shown.  Please let me know if I'm able to install this, preferably without the extender kit, thanks.

Based on that picture, you will not need a PEK, but you'll have to check on the furnace/AC as @ThreePhaseEel has pointed out.
You have:

Power (Red) (R)
Heat Call (Black) (W)
Fan (Green) (G)
Cooling (Blue) (Y)
Common (White) (C)

Matching those up to the ecobee labels should be pretty easy.


How come gas burners don't melt? A gas burner (torch) that burns mapp gas is advertised to have a flame temperature of 2900 C. Steel melts at 1300 C. Gas burner tips are made of steel. How come they don't melt?

That is the temperature of the hottest part of the flame. Here is a useful picture from SE that shows temperatures for a candle flame:

Here is a diagram for a gas flame showing how the temperature changes by region. Only the hottest point in the center is at the claimed maximum:


How do we remove tile spacers that are stuck in the mortar between the tiles? When tiling the shower, we inadvertently left several tile spacers in too long and we subsequently could not remove the spacers entirely and some fragments remain stuck in the mortar and are visible.  How can we remove those fragments without damaging the surrounding tiles before we can move onto the next step to begin grouting?

Pull them out with pliers or tap them out with a chisel/pick/flat screwdriver and hammer.  Most of the time if you clamp them with pliers and wiggle they will come out.


Why are appliance cords (like a dryer or oven) usually flat? What is this type of wire called?
I've been looking for a longer cord, or just bulk wire without ends for a table saw. I'd like the cord flat as it has to run along the floor, and most extension cords are fat and round, while most appliance type cords are too short. (Or can I use romex?)

Parallel cables are designated the NEC as lighter duty than most round cables. Cables that are flat are designated as Type SP, SPT-1,2 or 3, Service duty Parallel or Service duty Parallel Thermoset 1,2, or 3 grade level. Service duty indicates Not Hard Usage, while most round cables (SExx, SOxx, or SJxx) are designated Hard Usage or Extra Hard Usage.
The primary construction deficiency you will find with Parallel cables is single layer of insulation. Hard Usage cables have insulated wires inside an insulating jacket.


Recurring cracked window We had new windows fitted in June 2019 and have since had to have a small side window repaired due to it cracking.

It has happened for a second time now and we are worrying that its a bigger problem, maybe with the house itself.

Has anyone any experience with windows that keep cracking or know what could be the reason for it?

OK - Either this is a huge optical illusion or my eyes tell me that the window looks like it is being squeezed at the bottom.

It is simple - windows should never crack like this unless something hits it or it goes through a major earthquake.   Let's remove the issues with your house.   It looks like there is movement and it looks like this may be seasonal/temp related.   This is completely out of scope for the window issue.   You may have a huge foundation issue, maybe it is no big deal - doesn't matter.

You need a new window.  It needs to be sized correctly.   There should be space on at least one of the sides and either top or bottom.   Windows are not packed into an opening.   They are put into an opening and screwed into place using shims.   This is to give the window the ability to move and to get a more plumb install.

The other option that you have it is use the same window but shave off room on the outside - I do not recommend this though because it could decrease the integrity of the unit which seems to already have issues.   But if you keep putting glass panes in there they will certainly keep breaking.


When are you required to use a junction box extension to make it flush with the wall? Say you have a junction box whose face is recessed significantly into the wall. For instance, if the face of the junction box is actually at the back of the drywall or perhaps 1/2" too deep.

Is it required to use a box extension in a case like this? Mechanically it would be possible just to use longer screws to attach the device - but would that violate code or cause some other problem?

(USA)

ARTICLE 314

  Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings;
  and Handhole Enclosures

  314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material,
  boxes employing a ﬂush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so
  that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or
  listed extender will not be set back of the ﬁnished surface more than
  6 mm (1⁄4 in.). In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other
  combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings,
  or listed extenders shall be ﬂush with the ﬁnished surface or project
  therefrom.


What is this English wardrobe cabinet fitting? I'd like to find out what these fittings were used for to decide whether to remove them.
They are installed horizontally and vertically.
My first guess was that they were swing out basket hinges, but that doesn't account for the vertical installation of two of them.
Inside the axel has two holes around 90 deg from each other.

Thanks for all the fantastic effort attempting to identify the photographed fitting!
I found that it's a bolt assembly, like those used in flat pack furniture.  The holes at 90 deg are actually four, could only see two initially.  They're in the bolt head and the metal box acts as a retention plate.
If anyone is interested I can post an image of the bolt partially unscrewed.
Thanks again!


What should you look for when buying a 100 year old home that has been renovated to look brand new? I am looking to buy a 1900 house with detached garage that has been completely renovated and additions have been added to the house. However, what would be the things to look out for in such an old flipped house?

To start pretty on the outside dont always cut it.Do a look yourself a walk through.Outside roof ok how old; windows old  paint peeling signs of leaks .Next basement look and take notes  foundation type ,plumbing pvc  copper pex look for signs of upgrades.Elec panel look new looks neat not rats nest. Frame looks solid not cut up . Any odd smells damp mold septic.Radon vents dirt floor. Attic insulation ok mold smells ,mice nest. look up at roof any day light. If home still want . Talk to your home inspector about your findings and how deep you want him to look at it.
GET A PRO money well spent.


Sealing a water pipe leak with hardening compound without disassembly I would like to seal a threaded fitting without disassembly.

In the past, I have used some kind of hardening substance that could be used to stop leaks on water pipes.  This is, of course, not "pipe dope" or Teflon tape that might be used when assembling the fittings in the first place.

For background on the problem, I sweated the copper fittings first, then put three wraps of Teflon tape on the 3/4 MNPT and assembled as tight as I could get it with 9" wrenches.  Then I sweated the valve into place, protecting the threaded fitting and valve with a damp cloth. I didn't have enough room for unions since the valve is operated on the other side of a wall.  Anyway, when pressurized, I have a leak, which is common with threaded fittings, based on other questions on this board.

Because it would require a lot of work, and would be messy to dissemble this, I was hoping for a quick (and maybe only temporary) fix that did not involve cutting the valve out and disassembling it.  Instead try to find some kind of hardening putty.  But I don't know what this kind of putty is called, and if it would work on this arrangement (copper and stainless 304 threaded fittings).

UPDATE:
I used JB WaterWeld™ Epoxy Putty.  It didn't work.  I first cleaned the area with a wire brush and a soap and water solution.  Spend a considerable time with the wire brush and soap solution.  I then rinsed the area completely.  Then I dried the parts completely, and for good measure, heated the whole assembly with the torch so it was just warm to the touch (evaporating any remaining water).  So I started with clean and dry parts, then I mixed the putty as directed and forced it into the threads and beyond.  I waited two hours (says one one hour is needed), but when I turned on the water again (pressure is about 85 PSI), it began leaking.  So epoxy putty didn't work.

A temporary fix could be achieved by using a gauze / cloth tape, plus something like Fernox LS-X.

If you apply the Fernox to the joint, and then wrap it with the gauze, ensuring that the gauze is fully impregnated with the goo, you should get a good seal. Ensure you remove the pressure from the supply first.

Fernox actually uses the water to cure, so it can be applied wet. It's magic stuff - I always keep a tube handy for emergencies.
(I think this suggestion is probably remembered straight of the back of the box, btw)


cleaning mold with bleach - residue from previous cleaning A bathroom wall is covered in mold. I have a foam spray cleaner that contains bleach to remove mold. I have previously cleaned the wall multiple times with various wipes and a vinegar mixture. I want to use the spray cleaner but I am nervous about toxic fumes which can result from mixing bleach with other chemicals. For how long is the previous cleaning considered active enough to mix with the current cleaning ingredients? For example, if I cleaned with vinegar a week ago, has enough time elapsed to use the bleach? Please provide some source with your answer. Thanks.

Mixing bleach with acid (even vinegar) will release chlorine gas, which is poisonous (and you will know because it hurts like death to breath chlorine). Mixing a cup of vinegar (5% acetic acid) with a cup of houshold bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite) will not react violently, but it will still release enough chlorine gas that you will know it's true. The real danger is in the amounts and/or concentrations mixed. A bucketful of bleach and vinegar could be deadly. Or concentrated bleach and acetic acid (or other acid) could react much more quickly. Muriatic acid and bleach will react violently.

If you have wiped the vinegar off of the wall, it will be fine. If you are unreasonably serious about not mixing bleach and vinegar, use your nose. Vinegar has a pungent odor. If the odor of vinegar has dissipated (probably within hours), there should not be any significant amount of acid left. Alternatively, if you are industrious and still uncertain you could wipe the walls with a 5% baking soda solution to neutralize the vinegar/acid.

I could cite my own education and experience, but here is a link to a page written by some other person: Uses for Bleach and Vinegar


Plumber Broke A Wire Doing Repairs, Can I Charge Them for Electrical Work? Much like the title of the questions says; my HOA had to have a plumber come out to replace the risers for the building.

After they finished, I noticed that half my unit was without power.

Electricians came out and found that a wire inside of my conduit was broken. The wire appeared to have been pulled too hard and snapped (this is a little bit of conjecture, we can certainly say the wire was not cut). The total cost for the electricians to come out, identify the broken wire and replace it was ~2,000.00 for me.

Can/should I bill the HOA or the plumbers for the repair work that needed to be done to me wire?

First off....WOW! Two grand to troubleshoot and repair a broken wire? That's sounds waaay high. That should cover a Journeyman electrician for a week. I think they based their price on the value of your home.

Second, if everything was working fine prior to the plumbers visit I would definitely ask for a back charge from your HOA.

Good luck!


Wiring a bathroom exhaust fan light and Outlet on one switch I'm having a problem trying to replace my bathroom switch....there are 9 separate wires coming out from the wall...1 red, 4 white, 4 black...there is an exhaust fan and then there is a light above the sink and then there is an outlet... I can't seem to figure out which wire's go together and which wires are supposed to have a pigtail in order to put 4 total wires on to the new Switch...can someone please help me???!!! Thank you.

Here's the trick with electrical wires in junction boxes. There is no color coding.  Wires are the colors they are because that's how cables are made.

There is a system and practice for relating wires to functions.  However, the information is stored in the the way the wires are connected together already.  For instance, in a lamp box with 3 blacks and 3 whites, a wire-nutted group of 2 blacks / 1 white has a specific meaning. There's no need for further documentation; any electrician instantly recognizes what that is, and now knows the function of every wire in the box.

So, that is why we need to see the current, existing relationship of wires in the box to each other.

From time to time, a newbie will pull all of that apart, not realizing.  In that case, it's time to call the electrician.  We on the Internet cannot possibly discern the function of a bunch of unmarked wires.  The electrician will be on-site and will be able to trace out each cable's function.


How can I preserve 2" x 9" wood slabs in the Florida climate? I am using wood slabs ( 2" X 9") for wedding centerpieces. I have a friend who will cut them 6 months early. He says that unless I wax them that they will all crack badly. What would I use to preserve them? Is this necessary? How would I best store 20 of them? Sorry, I don't know the type of wood (from Missouri) that he will use. I will be bringing them to Florida.

Paraffin is a low temperature wax (around 100 F) that is inexpensive and can be melted in a pot (or disposable aluminum baking pan) to allow dipping.  Its brittle at room temperature, so your slabs must be handled gently after dipping.

It is best to dip just the end grain ends of the piece and leave the other 4 sides alone.  Keep them out of the heat and sun, a root cellar would be perfect.  (probably not an option in FLA).  Perhaps a cooler, this will let them dry very slowly, a key to minimizing splitting.

Addendum:

It is usual to make the original piece a bit oversize and then mill it to the final size after it is dry.  This is why a 2 x 4 is 1.5 x 3.5, a combination of shrinkage and final sizing.

This will allow you to trim the top and bottom so that they are parallel and will hold the vase steadily.  A block plane or sander can make one side flat and a thickness planer will make the other side parallel to it.


Rust spots on water heater -- time to replace? So I noticed today there's some rust spots showing up on the outside/bottom on the water heater. No more than a couple specs. Should I be worried?

Most water heaters have an inner tank surrounded by an insulation material surrounded by the outer shell.  If it is the outer shell that has some rust spots then there probably is not anything to be worried about.  So depending on where the rust spots are located you may not need to worry about them at all.

But considering that you are seeing rust spots on your water heater that might mean that it is fairly old.  If it is old, then you should think about replacing your water heater... a new water heater will save you a lot of money in energy costs (new ones are much more energy efficient).


Lowering the water pressure in my bathtub spout I have a small tankless water heater and the flow from my bathtub spout is too strong and the water will not get hot. How can I reduce the flow in just the bathtub spout?

I suggest you to add an aereator (aka economizer) to your tub faucet: it will, about halve, the flow used at a reasonable price.

If your water heater is smaller than 24 kW you should get a bigger one. (24kW allows 10L/min flow @30K temperature's jump) that is pretty low flow and not-very-hot water, if you live in hot regions it may be good (cold water hotter than 15°)


Outlets not working after space heater was plugged in So this all happened when someone plugged in a space heater into a bedroom outlet. it caused a breaker to blow and a few outlets to stop working aswell. At first i just thought it was a breaker that had blown so i flipped it back on and power was restored to the room but the outlets were still not functional.

Green Star: Working outlets

Red Star:   Non working outlets

Yellow Box: GFI outlets

Purple star: Where the heater was plugged in

Some things ive done to troubleshoot is first check voltages at outlets 2-8 and they are all reading under 120 volts usually around the 4-40 range. i thought it might have been an outlet that had failed internally and stopped working. So i replaced outlets 2-8 and 10 but the same issue persists i tried using a fluke tone generator to see if the space heater caused some degragation in the wire because of the wattage it required but i was able to succesfully trace the tone from 2-8 and from 1-2 and from 10-9 so im not really sure what the issue could be at this point the breaker seems solid, ive replaced all effected outlets, Double checked GFI's and replaced affected ones. Sort of at a loss here.

Note:Ive also firmly pushed all breakers on and off

Something interesting is the outlets are 2 pronged even though the breaker box is grounded

Officially, wiring is done in a tree topology - each segment branches off another.  However, in practice, most wiring is done in a vine topology -- they're all in a row.

Either way... the problem is in one of two places.

The last receptacle which works
The first receptacle which does not work.

Fiddling with any other receptacles won't do a thing.

That's because the problem is in the wire or the wire ends/splices.  Failure of a wire is extremely rare.  It's almost always where the wire connects to something else.

The usual cause is a "back stab" wire connection into the socket: the kind where you jab it into a hole and the socket just grabs the wire.  Backstabs are legal way to wire sockets - one time - but they're not very reliable*.  It is much, much better to use the side screws.

* Backstabs are made for a single use. If you pull the wire out, the spring is sprung.  Also, when you are shoving the receptacle back into the socket, forces on the wires can lift it off its intended contact area, or overload the spring and cause it to lose tension.


Refrigerator is unplugged a couple days for cleaning, once plugged back in will not start Amana - brand, perfectly functioning refrigerator,  was unplugged in preparation for cleaning and including in sale of house.

It was unplugged only 2-3 days, but now when it’s plugged back in it won’t start up.

Any idea why this would happen?  Is it destined for the junk yard?

If the refrigerator was unplugged during its defrost cycle, it may take some time to complete the cycle before kicking the compressor back on. Leave it plugged in for a few hours.

As mentioned in another answer, first check to make sure the outlet has power. Other than that, give it some time and see if it comes to life.


Question about running new drain pipes in Laundry room Hi I just framed out my laundry room in my basement and I'm looking to run add a utility sink and I need to add a drain line for both the washer and the utility sink though the utility sink is going to be the left of the washer so I'm not sure how I would branch off a drain from the washer drain. Here is a picture to make things a little easier to explain.

The utility sink is going to be to the far left and originally there was just a trap coming off of where the main drain line which I cut.

If I was having the utility sink before the washer near the main drain this wouldn't be an issue but since I need to run a trap for the washer how then do I branch off of that to run the line for the utility sink? Thanks

If it were me, I'd install a new sanitary tee in the main drain, just above the existing sanitary tee.  I'd have the standpipe for the washer come down into a P-trap, and connect the other end to the new tee.

However, you'll have to make sure the standpipe is at least 18" above the trap weir. If that height cannot be maintained, you'll have to move some things around.

I'm also not sure if a proper P-trap will fit in the stud bay, so you'll have to measure to verify.
 The minimum length of a trap arm is two pipe diameters. So if you're using 2" pipe, that's 4" from trap weir to the sanitary tee.

Then I'd have the trap from the washtub, connect to the existing sanitary tee.

Basically, something like this...


Unscrew jammed plastic screw of sink basket assembly I am trying to remove my old garbage disposal and replace it with a new one. I was able to take out the disposal but I am not able to unscrew the assembly that is attached to the sink. The assembly is jammed and when I try to unscrew (the locknut) by hitting with a hammer on its side, the whole assembly moves, including to metal part on the top part of the sink. I am looking for suggestions on how to remove it easily. Please note that I do not need the assembly to install the new disposal, so I can break it if that is easier to take the part out.

Please refer to the images attached

The locknut was very jammed so I ended up using a hacksaw. First, I took out the rubber washer between the sink and the locknut and cut the locknut in the space created.


How to easily clean up or refinish cheap top coat on hardwood? I recently purchased a home, and it appears that the hardwood floors had a very thin and/or cheap top coat of finish applied to make them shiny with minimal effort.

If I slide ANYTHING (even say a kitchen chair with plastic slider feet) across it a thin layer of material comes off and the floor looks less shiny in that area.

I guess this is a two part question:

1 - Is this a known practice?  Is there a way to check for it before buying a house?

2 - Is there a workaround for this besides refinishing the entire floor?

There could be a few different reasons for your situation.  I would lean towards the theory that only one coat of finish, urethane or maybe varnish was applied to a poorly prepared surface.  I'm afraid there is not quick fix to your problem.  I would be looking at stripping and sanding the entire floor, clean away every spec of dust and refinish with at least 3 coats of high grade urethane.  The surface MUST be lightly buff sanded and cleaned between each coat to give you a professional looking finish. It is a lot of work, but the results will be worth it.


Are electric stove/burner elements/coils interchangeable Are the electric burners/elements/coils for electric stoves interchangeable between brands? This is aside from the "big" and "small" diameters.
They appear to have the same connectors ends, but I'm wondering if there are any differences, either in connector design, element resistance, or other aspects I haven't considered.
Since the connectors on the elements appear the same, it is tempting to use them in any stove without a second thought. The cause for a second thought is a disintegrated connector in another question, and whether it was simply normal wear and tear or if an out-of-spec element could be a reason. I know elements from an older now-discarded GE range were kept and used in a newer Whirlpool range.

The answer is yes and no. Some brands have unique connectors but many are generic.  I would verify the wattage is the same and the fit is the same as long as those items are the same there should be no issues.
The connector issue could be a cheap one was used not high temp. When I repair stove wiring I use 900f degree connectors the standard ones you would get at a big box store are usually only rated for 90c max some only 75c these get loose with heat and start arcing until no contact area is left.


How do I make a 110V fan turn on when the thermostat turns the AC on? I have installed a new a/c with thermostat...easy enough, but thought to add a fan to the mix. Basically, I'd like to add a fan to increase ventilation into a second room that would turn on whenever the A/C turns on. I know you can run to multiple low voltage devices off a single thermostat, but what would be required to add a 110 fan so that it turns on exactly when the A/C turns on?

Thanks,
Pradhan

All you'd need is a relay.  You'll need one with a coil rated for 24VAC (or whatever the thermostat voltage is), and a contact rated to handle the current draw of the fan at line voltage.

Connect the ungrounded (hot) feed to the Common terminal of the relay.
Connect the ungrounded (hot) wire for the fan, to the Normally Open (NO) terminal of the relay.
Connect the grounded (neutral) from the feed, to the grounded (neutral) of the fan.
Connect all grounding conductors.
Connect a wire from the G terminal on the thermostat, to one of the coil contacts on the relay.
Connect a wire from the C (common) terminal of the A/C transformer.

When the thermostat calls for COOL, it should turn on the fan as well.

Didn't add it to the diagram, but it's probably a good idea to have a fuse on the R wire.


Dealing with inaccessible carcass under pier and beam house We recently had 3 days of rain which were accompanied by a terrible odor. After confirming that it wasn't a sewage problem, I've determined that something took advantage of my recent siding work to crawl under my house and die.

I'm used to dragging dead things out from under my house, but not only can I not find this carcass, I think the rain spread it around underneath the house.

What kinds of things can I do to eliminate the odor of rotting animal? ...quick lime? ...something else?

The matter of water movement under the house is another issue...

Quicklime is traditional, though a bit hazardous to handle. Time also does it. A hose end-sprayer with bleach or lysol (don't mix the two, pick one) might help at a lower hazard level and provide a way to apply the stuff where you cannot easily reach. The dead thing might also be in the walls rather than under the house.


Identifying countertop material and removing mug rings My countertop is a solid off-white material. Its finish is matte, not glossy, and because it has wood trim around the edge it's hard so get a side view - however, there is one point at which two pieces of the material are joined. It appears to be some sort of laminate or melamine. but I'm far from an expert here - these countertops were here when I bought the house.

I would like to know what material the countertops are made of, how heat resistant they are, and how to clean it. There is a place (which I've covered with a drying mat) where some mug rings have stained the countertop. My guess is that it's due to heat. I don't remember whether the rings were here when I came, or whether they appeared later - they have been there for years. Is it possible to fix this, and if so, how? So far the only recommendation I've read is to try carefully scrubbing with a magic eraser or melamine foam, but I want to make sure I know what I'm doing first.

[

it looks like melamine or laminate.

Either way the stuff is heat resistant to well past the boiling temperature of water, those are not burn marks from a mug, so they are som kind of dye mark.

Use a strong bleach: both surface types are chemical resistant.

If that doesn't work use a gritty cleaning compound sparingly, the surface is only thin.


If I have a basement mixing valve, do I need one at the shower? If I have a mixing valve at the hot water tank, do I need to have additional mixing valves at each shower/sink/tub etc?

A mixing valve at the water tank enables you to store water above the appropriate kill temperature for legionnaires bacteria and then allows you to draw water off the tank at a safe temperature. Most codes state above 140°F storage and up to 120°F draw. I find most people are happy with 130°F contrary to code. If you are talking about point of use(POU) set and forget mixing valves (as in, other then the diverter valve) then the answer is no. The best system design utilizes point of use mixers at every consumer contact point. In that case you would need to remove your central mixer.
Point of use mixing system
from Caleffi idronics journal July 2017
POU Mixing is superior because it eliminates the likelihood of bacterial growth downstream of a central mixing valve.
Central mixing valves are still acceptable because bacterial growth is frequently flushed every time a hot fixtures opens, reducing the likelihood of a colony getting a foothold.
Conclusion
You don't need to add mixing valves at each contact point but if you do you should remove your central mixer. Removal of the central mixer then requires a POU Mixer be added.
Edit
The picture above outlines why you should always use a POU Mixing system when a hot water recirculation system is implemented. The principals are the same but with hot water recirc. The hot water lines never get the chance to cool down below the bacterias happy place and thus are able to grow like crazy. That's also why you generally don't insulate the hot pipe in a domestic hot water system.


Should I replace this bottom plate? I am undertaking a bathroom remodel and lo and behold found some water damage against an interior wall. It is not extensive and doesn't run through the entirety of any of the studs or plates. I'm thinking I should be fine with a wood putty repair rather than replacing this but appreciate a second opinion from someone more knowledgeable than myself.

There's only one way to fix rotten framing, in my opinion, and it doesn't involve putty. It's with new framing. Cutting out and replacing a short bit of plate (or just a portion of it) isn't difficult. It may not even be necessary.


How long should refrigerator defrosting take? How long does it take for the tubing between the freezer and the refrigerator to thaw? My freezer works just fine, but my refrigerator isn't keeping items cold.  I unplugged it so it can thaw the tubing that blows the cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator.  Just need to know approximately how long it needs to be kept unplugged.

It should not take more than a couple of hours.  If it still doesn't work, you can remove the cover off the evaporator in the back of your freezer and check to be sure.  Your evaporator blower may also have stopped working, or the motor may be so weak it isn't moving air properly.


Vertical crack in foundation I live in a condo and I have a vertical crack in my foundation in my basement. A company came out twice to prime flex seal the crack which lasted for a year. unfortunately with recent rain it appears that the crack is letting in water again at a higher point in the wall than it was originally letting in water. The condo management company contracted out this foundation company who said that they planned to put a cover over the crack to divert the water coming through the foundation into a drain which will lead to my sump pump system. I was wondering is this the best solution to this problem? I figure that over time with water getting in through the crack, it is only a matter of time before the water continues to freeze and thaw in this cold climate and thereby make the crack worse and redirecting the water coming in my basement is putting a band aid on the problem.

What would be the best solution for this problem? I'm interested in knowing so i could make a suggestion to my condo management company so this doesn't get worse over time.

Once there is a crack with high water it is just about impossible to stop the leak unless a complete perimeter drain is installed. Since you already have a sump directing the water to it is the normal procedure , sometimes a internal drain drain is added this is less expensive than a perimeter drain.


Can I have a handrail on only one side of the stairs? Is it legal to have a handrail on only one side of the stairs if it's not continuous? (As shown in the picture below)

Or should I remove that small handrail and put a long one all the way down on the opposite side?

Legality would depend on the laws applicable to your local jurisdiction. I can tell you that discontinuous handrails are a safety hazard and are against all current model codes in the US. But at the time of installation, if it was allowable, you are not obligated to change it.

From a safety standpoint, you should remove the upper portion and install a long continuous rail on the opposite wall. The lower rail needs to remain as a guard rail to protect from falls off the stairs to the lower floor.

If or while you're at it, check up on all applicable details with your local building authority to ensure you're doing it right. Rail height, rail dimensions, standoff, extensions, etc. all have specific dimensions you should conform to if you're going through the the trouble to make a safer stairway.


How to remove hair dye stains on hardwood floor? I made a stupid mistake of not cleaning hair dye stains from hardwood floor immediately and now it has been almost 3 months. I tried with Clorox regular bleach but it is not working.

Any suggestions on getting rid of these stains from hardwood floor?

You could try hair dye remover (intended for use on previously-dyed hair) but I can't guarantee it will work or won't damage the floor finish.


Can I improve the water pressure by changing from 1/2" to 3/4" pipe? My water heater is 40' from my shower.

Would replacing 1/2" pipe to 3/4" help increase my water pressure?

Do you have a pressure reducing shower head?  Increasing the size of the pipe will reduce friction losses and result in slightly more pressure - my impression is the effect wouldn't be large.

How much more pressure are you hoping to get?  Do you know the water pressure for your house?

Are your pipes currently copper or pex?  Switching to pex and avoiding 90s would probably do more to reduce friction than simply upsizing your pipe.


How do I make this Raspberry Pi box? I found this gorgeous laser-cut box on Amazon for my Raspberry Pi, and wondered how I could possibly make one of these myself.

Can someone help me?

It's just laminated wood.

Gather 1/2" thick pine boards of an appropriate width.
Mark your cuts,  and use a router to cut.
Glue, stack  and clamp.


Trouble with End of Run Switch I'm wiring my work shop in Colorado. Its on a separate subpanel off the main panel of my house. Its a separate structure.
I wired a series of lights with 14-2 and switched it at the end of the run.
At the last fixture before the switch I attached the neutral (white from the power source) to the fixture. I attached the Hot (Black from the source) to a white going to the switch. I attached the black coming back from the switch to the black on the fixture.

In all the preceding fixtures in the run I just hooked black to black and white to white.
I believe this is correct though I understand code in some places requires a third wire in the last run to the switch to maintain a neutral. That is not required by my inspector.

The trouble I'm having is this: When I turn on the breaker all the lights come on, however the switch only operated the last fixture in the run.

Additional information that may or may not be relevant:

There is a J-Box between the last fixture in the run and the switch. I just spliced whit to white and black to black
There are other outlets in the run that do not have a fixture yet. Just spliced as a j-box
The circuit shares a breaker with a different switched light. I don't remember how I routed it exactly. I almost forgot to add a porch light and I think I tapped in to the circuit before the first fixture and ran romex to the porch light and then to my 3 gang switch box (same box as the one I'm having trouble with.)
The switch I am using for the end of run circuit that I'm having trouble with is a double horizontal switch. One switch is for the upper lights and the other is a different circuit for the lower lights. I tried using a separate single pole switch for it instead and it made no difference.

I would appreciate any help anyone can offer.
Thanks, Peet

You're describing an end branch that is supply-lamp-lamp-lamp-switch with 14-2 cable on each segment.

You have a clear grasp of wire function and you laid it out in black and white (/2 cable is black and white).  Trouble is, you're colorblinded.  I'd like you to color-code your wires, and I think this will suddenly become obvious.

Get some red tape

(And black too, while you're at it.)

And now tape your wires.  First rule of wire is tape both ends at the same time, don't mark one end then forget to mark the other or you'll lose your mind.  Second, once you have taped a wire, the wire is now that color.   You don't need white tape since you cannot mark colored wires to be a neutral.

Start with the thing that is required by Code: marking your retasked white wire.   Your white wire which is always-hot, mark that with black tape.  Black is the color of always-hot.  **

Now you have a switched-hot wire in that switch loop.  You used the black wire which is fine, but mark it with red tape.  Red is the color of switched-hot. ***

That was easy.

Whatcha got

Now go to your last lamp box (nearest the switch), remember a marked wire is that color, and you see a very obvious problem.

Neutral/white lands on the lamp, as it should...
Switched-hot/red lands on the lamp, as it should...
Always-hot/black upstream is nutted to always-hot/black switch loop...
but nothing carries switched-hot upstream to the other lamps.

Open up the next lamp and you see white/neutral to the lamp, as should be, black/always-hot to the lamp, and that's why they're always on.

Fix it

Now you see, to control the other lamps, you need switched-hot running back to the other lamps. So you need /3 Romex, which conveniently contains a red wire.  That's straightforward and I trust you can figure it out.

However there is another Code requirement.  You must now run real-neutral on the switch loop.. The reason is for future support of smart switches.   So you also need the always-hot, switched-hot and neutral triplet down to the switch.  That means you have to use /3 cable on the switch leg also.

That means you can just do the works in /3, which gives you access to native wires with all the right color codes, and I just wasted your money on tape :)

**    This is a convention (but a very smart choice when working in Romex.)  If some guy in a factory wanted to use pink-with-green-stripe for always-hot, that's his call, as long as he is consistent throughout the facility.

*** That is also a convention, but one which plays very well with the fact that in /3 cable, the third wire is red.


Generator wiring into Automatic Transfer Switch – wire gauge I will be wiring a Generac 24kW Generator, connecting into a 200A Generac Automatic Transfer Switch.   This Transfer Switch’s output is then powering a 200Amp service panel.  The Generator’s max output is 100A (24kW @ 240V), and it also has a 100 Amp main line breaker on the Generator itself.
When wiring (3-wire) to the generator, can I to wire for 100A (e.g. 00 aluminum wire)?  Or do I have to wire for 200A (e.g. 0000 aluminum wire)?  There is a tremendous difference in price and effort.  It will be about 80 ft from transfer switch to generator (about 2/3 inside and about 1/3 buried outside in pvc conduit)
The maximum that can actually travel down that wire is 100 amps of current (even though it’s connected to a 200A transfer switch & 200A panel).  If 101 amps are called for, the 100A breaker on the generator will flip to prevent generator overload.  So is 00 aluminum allowed in this situation?

You have to run 4-wire to a generator.  A separate neutral and ground wire is mandatory.  A ground rod will not substitute. The only way to avoid running a 4th wire is to use non-flex metal conduit the whole way.  (or run 120V only, but that's no fun).
But that's OK, I'm about to save you enough money to pay for the ground wire or the conduit.  Minimum ground wire size is #8 copper or insulated #6 aluminum.
Since the generator run will be circuit breaker protected at 100A, you can use 100A rated wire.  Voltage drop will not be a concern at only 80 feet.
That is #1 aluminum wire if a) the wire or cable insulation is a type permitted 75C operating temperature, and b) the terminations (lugs) are rated for 75C operations.  The breaker panel lugs certainly are; whether Generac graces you with 75C lugs is a question for Generac.  you would think...
Do not put cable in conduit if you can possibly avoid it.  It's not illegal; just exceedingly difficult and serves no useful purpose.
If your entire run is in conduit, it behooves you to use THWN-2 or XHHW-2 wires which are indeed allowed 75C in practical use.  (technically they could go 90C but that requires meeting a long list of conditions; the electrical inspector is likely to nix this).   NM is not allowed outdoors and UF is allowed only 60C.
If your entire run is not in conduit, and making it so is impracticable, you can transition from one cable type to another in a reasonably large box using splices. The box must remain accessible without tools or dismantling any part of the house.


Header requirements for basement egress window I have poured concrete foundation walls and I am adding an egress to my basement wall.  I'm cutting a hole 3' width by 4' in height, about 44 inches from the floor and about 12" from the top of the foundation wall.  The wall is load bearing.  It is a 2 story house. The roof slope towards the foundational wall.

I was told since I have a monolithic pour, I don't require a header, but it seems strange with cutting 3x4 hole that I wouldn't.  If one is required, should I use 2x8's for header supported by 2x8's as jacks?

There are a couple of issues: 1) is the window going to be an egress window in a sleeping area? , and 2) structural concerns.

1) If the window is going to be used as an egress window, then the opening in the window must be 5.0 square feet and the width must be a minimum of 20” clear opening, the height must be a minimum 24” high and the opening must be a maximum of 44” off the floor.

If you ever put a pullout couch or bed in that basement, you’d better have a window that meets those requirements or a door that opens directly to the exterior.

If it needs to be a minimum of 20” wide, a slider will require a rough opening of about 48” wide.

2) Structurally with two floors, roof and concrete wall resting on your new header, you’ll need at least 4 - 2x6 header on 1 - 2x6 trimmer at each end for a 4’ wide window, unless you have a point load above it (large post), refrigerator, or waterbeds. If you stay with your 3’ wide opening, you could use 3 - 2x6’s.


Is it ok to use joint compound for a thin or skim coat on new drywall? Is it ok to use ready mix joint compound on new drywall as a thin coat or skim coat ( if that means the same thing ). I just want to paint the walls or what is best to seal drywall for just painting. I’m just a DIY.  Thanks

Yes, it's fine to use a skim coat as a paint base, and it reduces the contrast between white dry compound and gray paper under the paint, as well as removing any difference in how the paint takes on compound .vs. paper.


Toilet does full-blast, one-second refill every hour or so I wouldn't lose sleep over this, except the unexpected and fierce sound startles my girlfriend and cat every time.

So I just replaced the refill valve on our toilet (using a kit, so everything from the lock nut to the overflow spout, but not the plunger or handle).  It works great. No signs of leaking (at least not on the floor or walls). It does a full refill every time right up to the refill line printed on the back of the tank. The overflow spout is above, not inside, the overflow pipe.

Every so often (maybe once an hour), the toilet shrieks for a half-second, like the float drops just enough to cut on the flow and then rises with just a squirt of water.

My first thought was evaporation, but 1) I'm surprised it's that sensitive and 2) I know our old fill valve didn't do this (at least I don't remember it doing it, and I'm sure both gf and cat would have mentioned it if it did).

The one thing I didn't tweak was the water level screw, because the critical point line and overflow pipe were the specified 1 inch apart (eyeballed) and the water fills to exactly the above-mentioned line.

If it is the water level, is this spontaneous and short burst indicative of needing to lower or raise the water level?  And can someone explain why it happens at all? I imagine the water-level adjustment changes where the float "floats" so if the water level is where it should be after a refill, why would it run 30-60 minutes later for a short burst?

Add a few drops of food coloring into the tank after it has refilled before it kicks in again.  Mix it up a bit to make sure it is dispersed.  Then watch the bowl to see if any of that colored water leaks though.  If so, then you know for sure that you have a leaky flapper as others have described.  If not, then the issue is probably on the supply side.

Note, you might want to lower the level temporarily, just to make sure any of the colored water doesn't go down the overflow in the case the supply is putting the water in and it is not leaking.


3 way circuit with voltage in the off position I have a 3 way circuit providing current to 4 recessed LED lights. When the switches are off, the LED lights still burn very dimly. Approximately 23 volts in one of the fixtures.

What causes this?

This sounds like capacitive coupling, straight-up

Any pair of plates or wires next to each other will have a parasitic capacitance between them.  For a typical length of 14 AWG NM cable between two switches, we're talking about roughly 75pF to the meter between adjacent wires, such as the two travelers in a three-way switch.

As a result of this capacitance and the fact that mains electricity uses AC not DC, a tiny amount of current can flow through a three-way switch setup when the switches are configured to turn the load off.  For say a 10m cable length (750pF of capacitance) on 60Hz mains, we get an inter-traveler impedance of 3.5MΩ and an allowable current flow of 34µA with the load shorted.

This is an insignificant amount of current if you're an incandescent lightbulb; however, LEDs themselves require much less current to run, and the driver circuit in your LED fixtures is clearly finding enough power there to sustain operation at a low level.  (Some drivers have far larger capacitors in them, so they charge up, try to start up, drain out the large capacitor, shut down again, and then start charging again, resulting in flickering behavior instead of the dim glow you see.)

The 23V reading is similar -- a typical modern voltmeter has a very high input impedance (on the order of 10MΩ), and is going to read the parasitic voltage that was coupled across as a result.  (If your meter has a LoZ function, switching to that will cause the parasitic, or "ghost", voltage to go away.)


What size wire do I need for a 100amp underground 300 ft run? I want to put in a 100amp subpanel in my garage.  The run will be underground and 300ft long.

I have a Siemens panel with breakers rated at 60/75 deg C.

What is the proper wire size I need?  I was originally thinking I needed to put the wire in conduit, but is there a better way to go with a direct burial wire?

So for anyone finding this page, none of the answers are incorrect or be qualified electrician. please for any electric services needed find and ask a qualified electrician.

Basically the breaker size protects the wire, So the breaker should not be higher amperage than the wire rating, however can over size the wire to meet voltage drop requirements. load calculations are for what minimum size panel/service needed but not the actual service rating if the breaker from the service side is a 100amp breaker feeding this then wire rated for 100 amp, etc. Most ampacity charts are up to 100 feet and go up one size of additional 100 feet. So, if using a 100amp breaker at the service side, then need to minimally size the wire accordingly and there are different rating for non burial, burial and in conduit  Aluminum sizes will be larger than copper. For that service would use URD Aluminum 4 conductor cable (need 2 hot, neutral and should have separate ground to shop, grounds isolated from neutrals in shop panel. for 300 feet for 100 amp rated service I would use Aluminum direct burial 1/0-1/0-1/0-1/0, the forth can be as low as #4 for the ground (but also in conduit, even if in conduit must still be rated underground wire and required by code also) Also note the size wire the breaker can handle, cannot cut strands to make fit, no no no, so check the breaker specs first. So if not really needing full 100 amp load, can go down smaller wires sizes, but use smaller breaker to meet the maximum amperage rating for that wire. so for example could use a popular 2-2-2-4 URD Aluminum direct burial wire, but would only use a 60 amp breaker for that distance, 80 amp if needed but could experience some voltage drop at high load, bad for running motors any length of time. Copper would allow smaller wire size, bigger wire still fit into breaker but is way more expensive. best to google look at a few wire size charts better contact an actual qualified electrician.


What can I use for full scale mock-ups other than less expensive lumber? We are often asked to do full scale mock-ups of proposed projects - whether a pergola, shed, or stone layout.  Clients want to see how a project will look in the space and experience the sense of an enclosed space.

Typically we use cheap lumber or plywood. What can I use for full scale mock-ups other than less expensive lumber?

Fabric can fill in a plane to visually give a sense of volume and does not take that much space to store.  It may be worth investing in making some grommeted panels that can be reused.  Fabric sources could be cheap bedsheets, painters canvas drop cloths, or tarps.  Create a Tinker-Toy-like set of small dimension lumber pieces and fastening plates or bolts to create the structure to affix the fabric panels to.

Tarps can be walked on and can clearly show patio, walkway, and flowerbed dimensions.

I have stacked cardboard boxes to simulate a large piece of furniture I was considering purchasing to see if I wanted to live with that large object in the room.  Appliance and mattress stores may be sources for large boxes that can be broken down and re-used.


Code Question in regards to 120V / 20 amps I am looking to install a 24-outlet Vertical Power Strip (Tripp Lite PS7224-20), to help have enough plugs for my computer equipment in the basement. Currently I have traced out the wire in the house from the breaker to a covered junction box. The Circuit breaker is 20 amps, and the wiring is 12/2 with a ground to the Junction box. At the Junction Box I have the Pool light on the line.

My question is awhile ago I added a 12/2 with ground out of that junction box for the computer equipment. Is this allowed as long as I used the Romex wire with the plastic junction boxes to house the outlet plug(120V). I want to keep that line and add an additional line that will be connected to a NEMA L5-20R which is needed for the PS277-20(20 amp). I will be moving the load of the devices over to the 20 amp line, and where the current equipment is will be only used to control 1 small device. Currently there is no tripping of the circut so the load is ok on the line. I am really only worried about if its to Code. Any help would be appricated. Sorry for the long winded post, just trying to give a good picture since I can't upload a photo

Unless I'm missing something, this is allowed, provided you have enough room in the boxes for the number of conductors coming through and connecting within.  If not, you may need a larger junction box.  For a continuous 20A load, you would need a separate line, but in this case, you are simply attaching a device with a 20A plug that itself provides multiple outlets (not a continuous load).

Since your pool lamp could potentially short or cause other issues (it being near water, etc.), you should consider moving it to another circuit so that you don't risk tripping the breaker on your computer equipment.


Installing in-wall speakers in an exterior basement wall I've been debating installing in-wall speakers on an exterior basement wall for a home cinema, and I see problems with every solution.

Naive approach

Cut out a section down to the concrete and simply install the speaker.

The problem with this, is because I live in a cold climate the vapor barrier is on the inside of the wall, and would be cut and compromised along each place.

Vapor barrier box

The next idea was to install a vapor barrier box, allowing me to preserve the vapor barrier, and still install the speaker.

The problem with this, is that in wall speakers are expecting a wall cavity to serve as a loudspeaker enclosure (and can actually benefit from existing insulation in the wall using it to absorb the unwanted waves within the cavity). I expect it would compromise the speakers quality enough to not be worth the effort of installing.

Has anyone else solved this problem already? Or is the idea of in-wall speakers just not feasible on exterior walls?

Never mess with basement walls. This is not toung in cheek. If you want to add wiring go surface mount! I say this from working with several homes below grade from the west coast to the great Lakes area.  Changing vapor berriors or drilling walls cutting channels are all opportunitys to create leaks in a dry basement. I am not a high tech audiophile but have made mistakes 2x in below grade wiring that caused me to have to do a bunch of work from the outside to eliminate the new leaks I created and these were on my homes, lessons learned for me I hope you don't repeat.


What's the strongest anchor for something heavy in double drywall? I have a party-wall in my apartment-née-condo that seems to have two sheets of drywall installed against eachother. All attempts to find some sort of stud or resilient channel / furring strip have failed miserably; short of going Hulk and tearing out a hole large enough to stick my head in and look for studs, I've given up. (And I don't have the drywall-repair skills to seriously do that; if it can't be repaired with spackle, I'm not going to try it.)

I've looked at quite a few anchors; but most (toggles, mollies, and the like) of them seem to assume a standard(?) 1/2-inch thick sheet, or so. All the ones I have certainly do. I don't want to fall back on using plastic-expansion plugs, if I can avoid it; I hear they're extremely unreliable.

Does anybody know if high-shear-capacity drywall anchors exist that latch onto double-thickness drywall? Or have other advice for me?

(For context: I'm installing a large shelving system, that should ideally be able to support quite a bit of weight.)

I think this question warrants an answer with a healthy dose of caution:

Shelves for supporting a lot of weight should not be supported via drywall! Structural shelves need to be supported by proper framing...namely the studs within the wall.

Given that there is a party wall, if this is a condo, the walls may very well be made using steel studs. Depending on the gauge of steel studs, they may be able to support a wall shelf system, but maybe not.

The other issue is that you shouldn't put holes in party walls without permission. A party wall is shared property and your lease or title likely has some conditions pertaining what can and can not be done to a party wall on your own.

The two main reasons to be cautious is fire codes (the double sheetrock is to meet shared wall fire codes and putting a hole in it defeats that) and sound (ideally, the party wall is fairly soundproof between units...creating holes, as well as attaching items to framing will allow more sound transmittance).

Suggestion:

Consider a floor-based shelving system. Many of the wall shelving systems on the market also have the option to convert them to freestanding. Ikea's system, for example, can be installed with feet to make it freestanding:


What is recommended method for mounting chandelier canopy that has 2 screws? I want to mount a chandelier canopy like this one to the ceiling.

You'll notice the hole on the left and the hole on the right.

The way this assumingly is supposed to work is that you have the bracket which is screwed to the electrical box as shown:

And once that bracket is screwed to the electrical box, you take the screws that came with the canopy and hang them down through the slots as follows:

Then I assumed that you push the canopy up to the bracket, with the screws that are pointing down going through the two holes on the canopy:

and as seen from the other side:

And then finally you screw these nice little trim pieces - little caps - onto the screw ends to finish it off.

The problem is that in any bracket the screws that hang down into the holes in the canopy are free floating in the slots.  So when I press the canopy onto the screws and try to screw on the caps there is nothing to hold the screws in place and I can never get the caps on.

I must be doing this wrong?

After you figure out the spacing of the bolts hanging down, you thread a nut on the bolts on the side of the bracket opposite the heads.

Cinch down the nuts, check the alignment. If okay, install the bracket and the bolts should stay put as you try to tighten the nut.


How do I paint a basement ceiling and heating pipes? What is the best way to paint a basement ceiling?

Can I paint the copper baseboard heating pipes?   Do I have to use special paint?

Painting a ceiling is not that much different from painting any other surface.  Take a look at the other questions in the painting tag here for lots of good tips.  Definitely invest in an extension pole for your roller handle so that you're not holding your arm over your head for the entire time, and enough drop cloths to cover the ground in the area you're painting.

If you have bare copper heating pipes, you might want to think about wrapping them in insulation and painting that.  I've got some of the regular pipe-wrap insulation in my house that the previous owner got paint on and it doesn't look any the worse for wear; I think it was regular latex paint, either gloss or semi-gloss.  You can also get wraps that are specifically marked as paintable.


How much old material do I remove before laying new rolled vinyl? We are installing new rolled vinyl in an old home. We discovered there is an original layer of vinyl then a layer of plywood (underlayment?)and a second layer of vinyl. How much do we have to remove before putting down the new vinyl?

Just the top layer of vinyl.  You could remove more if you need to match floor height on adjacent rooms.


How to attach a deck ledger board to house joists I am replacing an existing deck that uses joists cantilevered from the homes second floor. I'm cutting off the part coming out of the house and plan to attach a ledger board. Code requires some kind of bracket that anchors the deck to those joist ends in the house. It seems like the bracket needs to attach inside the house, but that part of the house isn't easily accessible. Is there a better way to attach the ledger board ?

Note: the cut joists are now flush, and that inch and a half of two by four is removed.

This is a tricky situation....
Normally there would be a rim joist at the edge of your framing which you could attach your ledger to.

This is what I would do for a really beefy construction:

Gain access to the inside and install full height blocking between the joists.
Install a rim joist on the exterior and connect the blocking to the rim joist so they form one unit.
Install hangers or angles to connect the blocking to the joists on the interior.
install waterproofing (flashing over the exterior rim joist) to create an continuous waterproofing layer on your exterior wall.
Install your ledge board with spacers at the lag bolts to form a gap between the ledge board and flashing of about 1/2"

This construction would accomplish two things:

Avoid any attachment into endgrain of your joist. Don't even try this. Screwing into endgrain is weak. That is why we use angles...or even hangers.
Create a continuous water proofing layer at your exterior wall
Create an air gap between wall and ledger to avoid rot. (This is my personal take. Attaching this way would need to be confirmed with the Building Department)

To properly and legally do this you would get input from a Structural Engineer and a building permit.


Can NM cable be exposed in attic? All the visible cables in my attic are old armored cables, thus protected from possible critters trying to chew them (I've had squirrels there before) and other forms of direct impact.

As I'm doing some rewiring and have a large amount of leftover NM (romex) cable, I was wondering if I can run that just sitting on top of and secured to the joists in the attic, like the current armored cable is. I can certainly go buy MC cable (metal-clad, which is like a modern version of my archaic armored BX that has aluminum wire and no ground) but would rather use what I have left over.

Yes.  NM cable may be exposed in attic.

This is very common in modern dwellings.  Armored cable / MC is not necessary in your case.


Which flat roofing system requires the least maintenance? I am a board member of my townhouse homeowners association and our townhomes are unfortunately very tall (need a lift or 60 ft ladder to access the roofs) and also the builder made the roof one single contiguous roof (unusual for townhomes, common for condominiums). As such, the Association is responsible for the roofs.

The original installed roofs, which are modified bitumen, are failing very early in life (around 7-8 years). The early failure seems to be attributed to both poor installation and lack of regular maintenance. We've been given different stories from different contractors regarding whether replacement is necessary, or repairs are possible... but even those who say repair is possible, they all say modified bitumen requires a minimum of annual maintenance, if not more frequent than that.

Unfortunately, due to the height of our roofs, it limits the number of contractors who can do the work or requires the expensive rental of a lift. So we are going down the path of replacement, and want to install the roof that will require the least maintenance.

Which flat roofing system is the most maintenance free?

I am not an expert in this type of roofing, I do however have some questions and recommendations that may help you get the right answers.

First the questions.  Is this roof drained with an internal system or scuppers along the edges? How large (square footage) is this roof?  What part of the country are you in? Have you consulted an industrial/commercial roofing specialist?

Here in the north country, most flat roofs on larger buildings are treated in a bonded/welded rubber, neoprene membrane. All the edges, sidewalls, plumbing vents, chimneys etc must be properly flashed and sealed with bitchethane and bonded to the flat covering. It is also very important to know that a flat roof is actually not perfectly flat. They must have some designed pitch to a drain point/s. Any area that allows standing water is potential source for leaks. Proper drainage is essential and will prevent the majority of future leaks.

Since access to the roof seems to be an issue for you and the contractors you have consulted so far, consider the following:

Only deal with a contractor that owns or regularly uses a bucket truck or man-lift and is used to working on taller buildings, and has the proper safety equipment and trained personnel to safely handle the job and materials.

Look at options to install a dog house access  on the roof. If there is no common area where one can be installed, explore the possibilities of an external attached caged ladder. Some method of easy access will allow safe, quick inspection of the roof.

Solving your problem should be fairly evident to a competent industrial/commercial roofing contractor. You may not like the answers you get, or the costs to fix the situation, but if you do it right this time, you will save money in the long run, minimize potential interior damage, and protect the value of your property.    Good luck.


I don't have a disposal, my kitchen sink fills when my dishwasher empties, why? I don't have a disposal, when the dishwasher empties my kitchen sink fills

It sounds like the pipes below the kitchen / washer are starting to plug up. It would be a good time to run a snake down the line or have a plumber do it. It will get worse once this has started, if you have trees and a older house roots may be making there way into the drain lines and a cutter tip on a drain auger may be required. I mention this because I have owned several older houses that had this problem, one I only had to clean out in the spring the other I had to replace the old concrete drain pipe.


How can I turn on my outdoor water fountain? I have just bought a new house, and want to activate the pump for the water fountain.
The pump seems to run an insulated electrical line back to the house, but I am not able to find any indoor switches to turn it on.
I am not very knowledgeable about how fountain works. I have also thought about the possibility that fountains don't require switches and I just needed to replace the old pump.
The previous owner left it in a neglected state, and doesn't want to answer any questions.
Any input/suggestion is appreciated!

Thanks guys. I did look around the house and was not able to find any outdoor outlet. However there is this indoor switch in the basement. Previous attempt does not activate the pump, but this could be due to the pump itself being defective as per blacksmith37's comment.
I will try to detach the pump from the wire, turn on the indoor switch again, then measure the wire's voltage using a multimeter. If there is a current, then I know for sure that the pump is the issue and get a new one.
Will provide an update once I get to it.

In my experience (since the prior owner is not being helpful) there's probably an outlet someplace that this just plugs into. Should be outside, have an "in use cover," and should be GFCI protected (preferably by a GFCI located inside,) but none of those may be true, or all of them may be.
And in all likelihood, the wiring is not remotely up to code - All too common to see an extension cord just barely below the surface of the grass, or running through a flowerbed. So, grab a trowel and follow that wire. I'll be shocked if you actually need a shovel (implying proper burial depth, though wrong type of wire is still a strong possibility.)


What's the safest type of power saw? I would like to purchase a power saw for general use (i.e., for various DIY and home improvement projects).

I currently exclusively use a handsaw to cut wood. Even though it is a pull saw (which makes the sawing take less time as compared to a standard carpenter saw), sometimes I wish that I could cut wood even faster. Hence, I am left with only one alternative: a power saw.

There are posts on the internet delving into what type of power saw makes the most sense for one's first saw.

But, I have an admission: I am scared of power saws. This is because I knew someone who lost fingers in a horrible power saw accident, and I have been "scarred" (psychologically) ever since. I don't know what type of power saw was responsible for his injury, but I have had an aversion to any blade that moved by itself ever since. Consequently, I have never used a power saw in my life.

Cutting wood with my trusty handsaw may be slow and laborious, but at least it has about a 0% chance of serious injury.

I understand that there is a whole variety of types of power saws that one can buy. Can you explain which type of power saw is the safest, i.e., has the lowest potential chance of injury and/or the least severe potential injuries? What about its design makes it safer than other types?

Ideally, the safest saw is also fairly versatile (since it will be my only power saw), but that may not be the case. At the end of the day, I value safety over versatility (and power). Obviously, to a point...please don't recommend something like this.

I know that if one is informed and cautious, and uses appropriate guards and guides, the chance of injury with even the most powerful type of saw is still very low. Still, we all have our clumsy or forgetful days; I want the peace of mind of knowing that - worst case scenario - I can't do much damage to myself with whatever type of power saw that I buy.

Edit:

My question has caused some confusion. I can put my question another way:

What power saw would you feel most comfortable giving to a 13-year-old?

I understand that all power saws have some risk and can cause injury if used improperly. I am simply inquiring about which power saws are less capable of doing so. I assume that the risk of using various power saws does differ, based on the wide spectrum of power saw sizes and designs.

While I appreciate this isn't an answer to the question, I'd like to point out that power tool safety is as much a state of mind as anything. All saws (with the possible exception of the sawstop and similar systems) can bite you, and correspondingly, all saws can be used safely.

So, my advice is to learn from experts how to use your chosen saw. Don't slip into bad habits. If there's a voice at the back of your head telling you that you aren't focused on the task, stop cutting.


How do I remove 20 year old sun damaged tuck tape from PVC siding? This question is similar, but deals with intact tape:  Removing Tuck Tape from an unfinished window frame

In my case, it has been out in the sun for some time on PVC siding window trim.  One side was in shade and I could get the tape off, then Goo Gone worked well to take off the stuck adhesive.

On the other side the tape is brittle and has little strength.  So far the largest piece I've gotten off is about 1 cm2.  Goo gone doesn't seem to go through the tape.  Ideas?


How realistic is DIY sharpening of scissors on a stone? I have scissors with moderately dull blades and a middle grain (looks like 120) sharpening stone.

Is it realistic to sharpen scissors on a stone or do I just get over the idea? How is sharpening scissors different from sharpening a knife or a chisel?

Like all projects a certain amount of skill and the proper tools are needed to sharpen scissors correctly.

A 120 stone is not fine enough to put a fine edge on a pair of scissors. Something a lot finer would be needed.

Many knifes are sharpened on both sides of the blade. Normal scissors are sharpened on the angled side of the blade. Some scissors can be disassembled to make sharpening easier, others cannot.

If your scissors are valuable, take them to a sharpening service. They should come back good as new.

If your scissors are not worth paying to have them sharpened, and are too dull to use, try sharpening them yourself. You will learn how well a 120 stone works for this task. You may find you have an interest in sharpening things. Or you may find you need to buy a new pair of scissors.

If you do try sharpening them yourself, be careful. Even dull scissors can cut your fingers.