Are there any major differences between a smaller table band saw and a larger stand up band saw? I'm considering buying a small table sized 9" band saw because it's much cheaper than buying a full sized stand up band saw. Are there any major differences in terms of what kind of materials I can cut and how large of pieces I can cut? Are there any other major differences besides size and cost?

From a "size - only" standpoint two critical dimensions of a bandsaw are the throat capacity and the maximum cutting height.

Throat capacity is the size of the opening between the blade and the frame.  You need your workpiece to be able to fit through this opening as you push it through the blade.
Max cutting height is the maximum amount of blade that can be exposed.  This will impact how many pieces you can stack.  Keep in mind you may not be able to fill the space, depending on the material.

Larger, more expensive bandsaws will generally have better blade guides, a more powerful motor, more table and fence adjustments, and can hold wider range of blade widths.  Adjustable speed is nice if you intend to cut metal, as slowing the speed will increase blade life.


Are there any quick setting floor leveling compounds? The self levelling compound under the vinyl floor tiles in our bathroom has started to break up so the tiles are now coming up.   We do not have another toilet so I need a solution that can be walked on quickly.

We are in the UK, and I am looking for something I can buy from a DIY shop or a builders merchant in the next day or so.  The concrete floor is not level and also has a few cracks, but nothing more than you expect in a 1930’s home.

It's really hard to say what will be available to you locally - so many products vary by location.

The product you are looking for is definitely out there.  The first one that came up in a search at HomeDepot Canada says it will setup for tiles in 4hrs and other floor coverings in 14hrs.

Ask around at your home renovation stores and building supply vendors to see what is available.


Bolt hole reinforcement? For barrel bolts I would like to drill a hole in the wall for a barrel bolt, similar to the photo below:

http://www.aoml.noaa.gov/hrd/shutters/ply4.jpg

However, instead of having a bare hole in the wall, is there a piece of hardware I can buy to fit a metal reinforcement into the hole? The barrel bolt would slide into this metal reinforcement.

I am asking because I don't know if such things exist.

Thanks.

I would buy a bolt that includes the part you seek

OK, it might not be exactly what you thought you needed, but it is what everyone else uses to securely locate the bolt end in the frame.

If you have an electric hand drill you can easily make one of these yourself if necessary.


Retaining Wall Restoration A 30 year old concrete retaining wall is showing signs of age:

What can be done to:

halt the deformation of the blocks & wall?
restore the wall to a state closer to 'new'?

Not age so much as settling in the footing. You'd see the same thing in a new wall in similar circumstances.
You have two options:

Replace the entire wall section, say 15 feet out from the corner both ways, including the footing, to try and be sure that it won't move further. You'll examine the soil under the current footing and possibly improve it, making sure to compact thoroughly. This is obviously a substantial job and would take several days.

Remove and repair just the broken block, hoping that all settling that will occur has occurred, and that the footings are in their final resting place, so to speak. A good mason or bricklayer can do that job in a few hours. A mortar hack like me would take the wall apart such that it's a stair-step all the way up  (to avoid tuck-pointing) and might take a day.


Light flashes on then turns off. What do I look for? I just moved into my first home and the light fixture in the water closet broke.  I replaced the fixture with a new one, but the light only flashes on, then turns off.  I checked for loose connections, but that didn't solve the issue.  Help me troubleshoot.

I thought it might be the switch so I pulled off the switch plate and found this mess:

Can anyone tell me if it's wired correctly?  There are five (5) wires, each with hot, neutral, and ground all coming into the box.  As far as I know, the switches only control the light and fan, respectively.  I have no idea what the other 3 wires might be for.  Here is a diagram showing the wiring:

Does the light switch feel any different than the fan switch? The switch can feel funny if it fails.

Also, what kind of fixture it is? It's probably not relevant, but it's not a bad detail to add.

OK, looking at your diagram, I'm happy to see that all the gnd and all the neutral are tied together. That really helps, as it means you don't have anything too weird going on.

I'm going to describe what I see in that diagram, so that we're on the same page (or so that you know I have no clue).

From what you've drawn, I assume that the wire going to the light fixture is the one on the left, the fan is the one on the right.

One of the center 3 lines goes back to the breaker. The other two of the center three lines are actually branches that feed something else (basically, they are chained off of here). That big bundle of 4 wires on the one leg of the light switch are just a way to get everything tied together without a separate wire nut.

At this point, as long as all connections to the switch are good, and you think the fixture is good, then I'd say it would have to be the switch itself - they are mechanical, and they do go bad over time. If you have a multi-meter, or some kind of circuit tester, then you should be able to check the power at screws of the fan switch - the one coming from the light switch will be hot all the time, the other side will only be hot when turned on. Then try the light switch - I bet it's not actually working correctly.

If you don't have a tester, just replace the light switch. They don't cost much, and then you'll know for sure.


Why would a switch be wired with its neutral connected to ground? I'm rewiring a few bedrooms in my house and came across some interesting wiring on both of them:

The wire at the bottom is the power source and the wire at the top goes up to the light/fan.

Why would they pigtail the hot off the connected hot/neutral, and connect the neutral from the light/fan to the grounds?
Should I just cap the incoming wire how it is and run a new wire for the switch and not even mess with it?

The picture that you show indicates some very serious and dangerous wiring connections. This was clearly done by someone that had NO clue to proper wiring craft and codes.

Since you have found similar issues in two spots it leaves to question about how much the rest of the abode is wired in similar careless and dangerous way. I would recommend that you bring in someone who knows all things related to mains wiring and codes and perform a 100% survey of all your electrical wiring including all boxes, panels, lights, switches and outlets. Without doing a rigorous job of this you will have no idea how much risk you are dealing with before someone or something gets electrocuted or seriously damaged.


OK to bundle wires together with colored electrical tape? I have 3 bundles of 3 12AWG THHN wires each,

black-white-green (red tape)
black-white-green (blue tape)
black-white-green (black tape)

these 3 bundles come out of the load center and into 1/2 EMT. So 9 wires total, 6 of them current-carrying. (With 6 CCC's, I derated them 80% from 30A and put them on 20A/15A breakers)

At any rate, to avoid mixing up which neutral/ground goes with which hot, etc., at each junction box where two or more bundles exists, I have them bound together with colored electrical tape so as not to confuse myself or the person following behind me.

In the load center the bundles are marked with their color just as they go out into the conduit, then again at a junction box where they go their separate ways. Actually at any place where two or more bundles co-exist.

Is this going to trip out the person who follows me, or worse yet, be dangerously misleading?

It's mandatory

When putting identical-appearing circuits in a conduit, you must differentiate them somehow.  It's mandatory.

I would not bundle them but mark them individually.  Black(blue) and White(blue) for instance being the obvious pair. Bonus points: use a decent length (2") of shrinkwrap so the tape doesn't come off someday.

The reason I don't like bundling them is pulling. It will make pulling harder by making wires bind.

Get rid of those grounds

Grounds don't count against wire-size derate (on 10, 12, 14 AWG you are allowed 9 active conductors per conduit without worrying about derate). Having considered this math in every way possible on 120/240 split-phase, this means 4 circuits of any kind.

But they do count against conduit fill - in 1/2" EMT you are allowed 9 wires fullstop... and you are now full.  Dump two of the grounds and you will be able to fit a fourth circuit.  Use the 10-32 ground screws in the boxes to splice grounds.

EMT itself is a ground path. One ground in EMT is belt-and-suspenders.  Three is inexperience.  The only reason to pay the fill cost for that is if you were splitting the circuits into nonmetallic conduit downline, and the split point lacked any place to splice the grounds - I have had to do that.


Is there some kind of adapter for an old ceiling box? I was replacing a light in the entry vestibule at our new house with a cheap flush mounted light fixture. When I removed the old light I discovered that the ceiling box is an old type with a cross bar attached to a thread central nipple with a nut. The cross bar had screws pointing downwards that attached the old fixture with two nuts.

Unfortunately, the old screws didn't match up with the holes on the new light fixture (that would be too easy) and the cross bar that came with the new fixture wouldn't fit on the old box because of the central nipple (and there's no where to screw it in). I ended up rigging something up by screwing the new cross bar into the old one, but I'm not exactly happy about it. The light doesn't sit quite as flush and I'd hoped with the ceiling, but it seems secure.

Is there some kind of adapter available that would fit these old ceiling boxes? I really, really don't want to try and replace the box itself and I have some other light fixtures to replace that I fear may present the same problem.

Edit:

I don't have a picture right now, but looking around on the internet, it's not entirely dissimilar to this box (although mine is completely cut out without the screws through the ceiling):

There are a bunch of different styles of universal cross-bars, including ones that are designed to be mounted with a nipple.  I'd just check your local hardware or big box store.  Some examples:


Will Kitchen Backsplash Update Trigger 2ft/4ft Rules of Receptacles above Countertop? I am planning to replace the backsplash in the kitchen at my home. NEC 210.52 requires that every spot on the countertop should not be distanced more than 2ft from a receptacle. the current condition does not comply with this rule. To comply with the code, I need to rewire a lot of parts of the house since the main panel is full, and need to make two dedicated circuits for the countertop receptacles, which I do not want to.

The work I want to is pretty simple; I just want to replace the backsplash. I do not want to update the wiring! The question is, do I need to update the countertop receptacles once I tear down the backsplash walls??

I am assuming that the answer is NO, since the tiling itself does not requires inspection. So, as long as not reporting to the inspector, I assume it will not be a problem. The part of the reasons why I am asking is that I am going to sell the house soon. I don't want to have a trouble when I sell it...

I would appreciate your advice. Thank you!

Even though you are replacing a backsplash you are not really remodeling or upgrading your electrical. I can't speak for every inspector but most would say it is alright to leave your receptacles as is under the grandfather clause.

One important note, even though you are being allowed to leave the receptacles in place I would recommend you add GFCI protection if it is not present, and it may be a required upgrade by your inspector. Since removing existing receptacle is a modification.


Pull 7- or 8-conductor thermostat cable? I've got 4-conductor cable now, but am looking to put in a smart thermostat (ecobee3). It requires a C wire, or the use of their adapter kit, so I'm thinking of just pulling new cable.

7-conductor is obviously cheaper than 8, but I also realize the cost difference is neglible in the long run. I've got single stage heat and cool, and a fan, so 4 wires have served well until now. I could maybe forsee adding a (de)humidifier in the future, but don't think I would ever install anything else (furnace and AC were replaced 2 years ago), rendering the extra wires redundant.

Will I be severely hampering upgrades in the future by only pulling 7 wires? The run looks to be maybe 25 feet, all in the attic.

I always pull 8 conductor for several reasons. First I only keep 1 spool on the shelf and the cost is within a few cents per job. Second if a conductor gets damaged there is a spare. Third upgrades at a later date can use the same wire. Little things like the last one can help on selling a spec home in my experience.


Greenish Deposit on Outside of Copper Pipe in Bathroom I'm renovating my bathroom. I ripped out the floor and I noticed that there is a green deposit on the outside of the copper tubing. Is this a problem? Do I need to have a plumber check it out? The pipes are 50 yrs. old.

That normally means there was a water leak at some point.  If you look at the pipe on the left in your picture, you can see a small trail coming down from up above.  Is there any sign of water above the floor/cabinet?  A small amount of green on copper usually isn't anything to worry about.  You just want to make sure that whatever is leaking has stopped.

If there is still a leak, clearly you'll need to fix that.


Individually addressable LED Strip lights OK - in theory I have a BSEE degree from 1974 but in reality it was a Computer Science degree so I need help to make sure I wire (mostly in wall) this correctly and do not burn down my new house.

And a BIG THANK YOU in advance for reading this - I have tried to include everything in an orderly fashion but please let me know if I am unclear anywhere.

Please see the attached diagram

Q1 - Wire Guage Computation for the Orange Power wires - Each Side: 18 Amps, 90 Watts 16 ft (one way);  Total: 36 Amps, 180 Watts 32 ft (one way).

Q1a - Do I compute wire size based on each side: 18 Amps, 90 Watts 16 ft (one way)
Q1b - Do I compute wire size based on each side: 36 Amps, 180 Watts 16 ft (one way)

Q2 - Wire Gage Requirement - According to this web site:

Q1a requires 14ga at 1.0 drop multiplier or 12ga at 1.5 multiplier
Q1b requires  8ga at 1.0 drop multiplier and 8ga at 1.5 multiplier

Q3 Assuming I have not made a glaring mistake above it appears that it would be cheaper and easier for me to use two DC5V 20A 100W LED supplies instead of one DC5V 40A 200W LED as in the second diagram

Now I would not need anything larger than 16ga wiring?

Q3a Does the above make sense?
Q3b Given that I actually have four "sides" (rather than the two shown) I will need 4 power supplies (NOTE: I plan to be able to turn each pair of "sides" on and off by each of two wall switches which will control power to the supplies).  Is the brand/type of supply I am using overkill for this application?

Q4 I have assumed that within reason the length of the control circuit is not an issue - correct?
Q5 I would prefer to control all of this from one Arduino so I have shown the control wiring as a daisy chain including each "side" and the small 12 LED strip shown at the bottom of the diagrams.  I also would daisy chain in the second pair of sides mentioned just above.  Given that the strips I am using  have a dual pair of leads for the VCC and GND and that I am using different 6 power supplies total how do I wire this (I assume I can get polarity correct to prevent shorts).  Or am I simpling forgetting my EE training and I do not have to worry about parallel connections between DC connections?
Q6 I just realized I may have a problem if I turn off power to one Power supply will that set of leds try to power off of the control line?
Q7 Am I making this too complicated - do I really need a separate Arduino for each power supply?

OK, that site has really misled you in terms of wire sizes.  Wires have capacity based on amperes not watts.  That means a 14AWG cable can carry 3600W in a 240V circuit, but only 75W in a 5V circuit.   Both are 15A, which is the statutory maximum for 14AWG wire.  Similarly 12AWG maxes at 20A, and 10AWG maxes at 10A.  8AWG is 40A.

However, your limiting factor will actually be voltage drop.  Because there are microcontrollers in the strip, you need to - if I recall my TTL spec, it's +/- 5%, so 4.75-5.25V. That means you can only have 0.25V voltage drop combining all the voltage drops together, including the voltage drop along the strip itself.   Your drawings show feeding the strip in a lot of places.  That's the right idea.  With these cheap strips, assuming 0.10V drop down a 1m length of strip is hopeful, so you can tolerate 0.15V of additional drop in the distribution wires. And that's where you'll get nailed.

You need to carry 18A from the power supply to the first strip, 16 feet (except it's round-trip, so 32.)  Let's run the math a bit.

Try 12AWG wire. 0.0016 ohms per foot.  x 32 = 0.051 ohms = R.  I is 18.   E=IR  E (voltage drop) = 18A * 0.051 ohm = 0.92 V.  Good grief! That won't do!

OK, well suppose we do a 12AWG homerun from each strip to the supply.  I is 3.6.  E=IR 3.6A * 0.051 ohm = 0.184 V drop. gahhh, close enough.  You can bump it to 10AWG if you really want to.

How about busing with fatter wire?  Rather than iterate, let's work backwards, E is our max tolerable (0.15V), I is 18A. R becomes 0.00833 ohms. The most resistance we can accept is 0.00026 ohms per foot. You don't want to know what wire size that is, but its last name is "KCMil".

... and you thought you were going to use 16AWG... SMH the things you read on the Internet...  and this is why I said the 5V makes it much harder.  If this was 12V, you would not have learned the term "KCMil" today.

So

Q1:  Neither one.  Trying to run 18A or 36A down a single bus is doomed to failure, since power loss due to voltage drop is a second order of amperage.  The only thing that is not insane is a separate 12AWG homerun from each 1m strip back to the power supply.
Q2: 10 or 12 AWG depending on how voltage-drop-tolerant you are.  LOL 16 AWG LOL... I wish you had tried it, I would love to hear how it turned out.
Q3: In case you haven't figured this out by now, use the number of power supplies that lets you move the power supply as close as possible to the point of use.
Q3B: You are linking cheap Cheese power supplies, and it's a big mistake to try to run those anywhere near their nameplate rating. They're just not that well built.  If you were using GE supplies, different deal.
Q4: The control circuit looks reasonable though I might try branching that instead of a big long end-to-end. Don't make it a loop.
Q5: I would not parallel the power supplies.  That shouldn't be a problem if you do a separate homerun for each 1m strip.
Q6: If you don't parallel the power supplies, that should make backfeeding impossible, but in any case, don't allow it.
Q7: unless there's a signal propagation problem, I would want one central control unit, so one Arduino.  You might try having the Arduino on its own supply, or at least power it with a separate homerun.


Steelcase desk drawer stuck in unlocked position I have a steelcase desk at work with a two drawer locking file attached to the underside of the desk. The lock is UNlocked. I can put the key in and turn it no problem...but the drawers won't open! If it was just "stuff" I would expect the lower drawer to open no problem, as it is a neatly organized file drawer. The smaller, upper drawer is full of random junk. I've tried locking/unlocking the drawer, wiggling the drawers, pulling hard, etc. Any thoughts on how to get the dang thing open? I've stuck a hanger in and wiggled it about to shift items. No luck. It opened this morning :(

There are anti tip mechanisms in steelcase desk drawers. 1.)Open center drawer all the way open. Looking under center drawer, far back on right & left edge are metal square shapes sticking up -try lifting its insert up (like a guillotine blade). How it works is when drawer closed a pin goes through this and slides freely, if tipped the guillotine drops down and prevents pin from pulling out) So by manually disengaging (lifting square up) should unlock it. The key thing is getting center drawer pulled open enough to access area. I will try and get some photos added.
I figured it out after the steelcase desk drawers were opening fine, then we moved desk on its side, upside down so could slide it on a blanket etc and afterwards had locked drawers :-( But figured it out.


How much wooded land should be cleared around a new home site? I'm planning to build in a wooded lot, and want to leave as much woods as possible. What is the minimum buffer that is required or recommended to allow around the home's footprint, taking into account tree fall risk, fire risk, needs for construction equipment and workmen around the house, etc?

Are there any official recommendations or best practices for this?

In California, if you build in the "wildland interface", wildfire risk drives the clearance requirement of 100'. The following quote is from the CalFire web page:

  Protecting a building from wildfire takes a two-pronged approach: Remove flammable materials from around the building;
  Construct the building of fire resistant material.
  The law requires that homeowners do fuel modification to 100 feet (or the property line) around their buildings to create a defensible space for firefighters and to protect their homes from wildfires.


Building a stud wall around cornice I'm building a short stud wall across an alcove, to give us a built in wardrobe. I'm intending to frame the wall with the timber laid out on the ground then to lift the frame into place and secure to the floor and ceiling, with noggins in each.

There is existing original cornice, which we want to keep in the room and continue across the new wall, with as seamless joints as we can reasonably achieve. I have quotes for a company to replicate and make a run of the plaster cornice, so we can get new cornice to do that which matches the existing.

This is the top of the alcove in question:

My question is whether I can do the job without damaging the existing plaster, or whether that makes it significantly harder to do. I'm imagining a frame with two large inverted corners at the top, to avoid cutting the cornice, but still frame the wall on the floor and lift it in to position.

This is the kind of shape frame I mean:

Are there any major downsides to this approach? I don't want to compromise the job I'm doing so if I have to cut the existing cornice rather than build around it, I will do that, but if possible I'd rather not damage the original cornice.

The only downside to your approach is the lack of rigidity in the upper end of the frame because of the multiple joints. Once the framing members are secured to the walls and ceiling, this should be largely resolved.

You could strengthen the frame by adding a horizontal member right below the inverted corners, making a large rectangle with a smaller one above it. This should be well above the door frame of the wardrobe.

Edit by asker-
Image of my interpretation of answer:


Where to connect a c-wire on a furnace with existing two wire mercury thermostat My existing thermostat is an old mercury two wire device, heat only.  Looking to upgrade to a better model, but I need to run a c-wire.  I don't know where to connect the wire at at the furnace, any help would be appreciated.  The valve is a Honeywell VR8200A2132, at the top there is an unused Th and Tr (3rd picture down)  Last image looks to be the transformer with no open spots.

Thanks for the assistance

enter image description here

TR is Common on your unit, Every 24 volt device will have a Common leg as well as the 24 volt hot leg, just as a car battery has pos and neg, common is akin to neg in this case.
Common is called this cause every 24 volt circuit terminates upon Common to complete the circuit.
The last pic shown is the "time on"   "temperature off" fan delay, the 2  lighter colored wires are low voltage, 1 id the heat circuits 24 volt hot leg  being W or white, the other being Common or C.
The gas valve has the same 2 24 volt leads as well,  without completing the circuit nothing will work,  every electric circuit requires 2 legs of power be it 1 hot leg  and neutral/Common or 2 hot legs as in a 230 volt circuit.
Google 40 VA HVAC transformer to see what they look like so you will be able to locate it.
Your 2 wire thermostat will have only red and white shown on my diagram


Replacing pavers with grass, what do I do with the sand? My backyard was pretty much entirely paver stones and I'm pulling them out to put in grass. I've pulled up many of the stones and underneath them is sand (fortunately they did that right). My question is, do I need to get rid of the sand before planting grass (presumably) or can I just till the sand into the dirt underneath it?

I would check the base under the sand. Did they put in crushed stone for drainage? If it is just a few inches of sand over existing soil, then I would add compost, and then till it all together. The organic matter in the compost will greatly improve the soil.

If there is a stone base under the sand, then you may need to take it out.


Plastic bucket under gutter downspout I am doing some work around my gutter downspouts and found that underneath the ones at the front of my house, someone had buried 2-gallon plastic potting containers (upside down).   There was a piece of fabric barrier above them too.  There is nothing underneath the plastic bucket.  Just curious if anyone has seen this before and if there is a purpose for them being there.

It's a strange method (to me, anyway) but my guess is someone put it there to prevent erosion. If you have water running from the downspout, without anything there it will basically pound a hole into the ground, as well as drain into your foundation, which can cause various problems including flooding of your basement, and cracked foundations.

I guess it's the cheap equivalent of one of these:

It's best though to have an extension and get it far away from your house, so that water is running downhill/away from your foundation.


How can I remedy a slight bump underneath my new hardwood floor? I recently installed some hardwood floor in my living room / kitchen. I'm very happy with the job I did except for one strip of hardwood.

The problem is I can feel the some part of the sub-floor pushing up against the piece of hardwood as though it wasn't perfectly level.
It's really only noticeable when you walking on it but I'm wondering if there's anything that can be done to fix this.

The floor is nailed in, so I can't remove the board and sand down whatever might be pushing it up.

Any tips?

Nailed down hardwood board strips can be removed (destructively) to allow access to the offending sub-floor.

It involves carefully cutting out the piece with a circular saw and an oscillating saw.

Replacing the piece involves glueing down the same length piece. You have to cutoff the bottom half the groove side to allow the replacement to drop in.

Hopefully your flooring was  prefinished, which makes matching a snap


What's the best method of insulating windows against solar heat? (TL;DR at the end ;) )

I live in Western New York, and while it's pretty uncommon to reach temperatures over 95-100, it still gets pretty hot here, and we typically have 70-90% humidity on top of it.

My son's bedroom has two windows, one which faces north and one which faces east. We're on the second story of a two story duplex, and the east wall of our apartment is in the sun all morning. His room gets really hot, and we only have a small wall air conditioner in the dining room. Despite strategic fan placement, the heat coming in from outside is just too intense.

I know that alot of people will use aluminum foil as insulation, and I know it's effective, but with the way people are these days, I don't need my neighbors and passers-by to make any judgements.

There are four windows I'd like to be able to insulate. My son's room, bathroom, dining room and kitchen, which all face east.

The only window out of the four I care about being able to see out of is the window above the kitchen sink. All three openable windows need to remain openable.

I'll provide examples of each window at the bottom of the post.

All four windows are old, and they're all single pane.

I've contacted my landlord and gotten permission to apply window treatments on the interiors of the windows, as long as it's not permanent.

So what should I do? Does anyone have any suggestions for a diy solution? Does anyone have experience with window tints or films? I have very little money, so whatever I do it has to be inexpensive.

Thanks in advance for your help!

TL;DR
I need to block solar heat from getting into four eastern facing windows in my house and I'm looking for super cheap suggestions, diy or otherwise.

Thermal draperies may be the best option. They can be opened when needed. The fabric is available to make your own at JoAnne Fabric, but ready mades are inexpensive and readily available.


How to remove dry grout How do you remove dry grout on tile. We have tried everything from vinegar to tile cleaner, but nothing is working. Any suggestions?

Your options at this point are scraping it off or dissolving it.  My first suggestion would be contacting the tile manufacturer.  They would have the best idea of what your tile can handle as far as physical abuse or acid.

Scraping

Scraping is attractive as a primary option because you can go slowly and start in a small inconspicuous area to see if it will damage the tile.  There's no perfect tool for this as far as I know.  I'd start with an abrasive sponge (you might get lucky), steel wool (good for streaks) and then lightly attack clumps with a razor, painter's tool or small sharp chisel.  To limit damage to the tile, you want the tool to be as horizontal as you can make it and still work safely with it.  You should quickly determine how much abuse your tile can handle and if a few scrapes ruins your floor.  Most likely it will be a slow and painful process.

Acid

Sulfumic acid will work if the grout is not too thick, the main concern is what it will do to the tile underneath.  Again, find a small spot to test first.  Etching is usually caused because the tile absorbs the acid.  To limit this, I would wet the tile pretty thoroughly with clean water first.  Gloves, mask, and good ventilation are a must when working with the acid.  If the grout is pretty thick, this may loosen it up enough that you can scrub it away with a scraping method.  Follow the instructions and don't let it sit long enough that it eats through the top layer of tile.

Replacement

I wouldn't overlook replacement as a possibility, depending on how many tiles are an issue.  It's entirely possible you will damage the tile trying to remove the grout anyway.  I'm assuming you did the tile work (or you should be calling the contractor to fix this), so you should be able to replace a tile, just break it, scrape up the surrounding grout and install a new one.  If it's old work (and you can find tile that matches), it might be worth a few calls to find what a tile mechanic might charge for a small job.


How do you calculate the horizontal force created by a load hanging from hinges with a hinged bend (as in a hangar door)? I am trying to calculate the horizontal force created by a raised hangar door, but for the purpose of this question, we can consider the horizontal force of a 2x4 stud that is connected as shown in the illustration below.
The 2x4 is cut in half and connected with a hinge at the top and a hinge at the middle, and then is supported vertically with a cable (which in the door will pull the door up and down). Not pictured is a track which the 2x4 or door will be connected to that keeps the "bottom" of the door in alignment with the opening.
What I am trying to determine is the method to find the lateral force that is created, or in other words, how much force will the door put on the track when it is open?
I have intentionally not included weights or lengths or angles because I'm looking for a general solution.

Assume: The two halves of the door are of equal length and weight. (L and W)
Let Theta be the angle between vertical, and the upper portion, measured from the opening. Thus, when the door is closed, theta is 0, and when open all the way (impossible in real life) theta is 90
Constraint:  The door will form an isosceles triangle at all times when closing. (two equal length sides)
The X component of the length will be L sin( theta).
H will be 2L cos(Theta)
Let R be the reaction of interest.

Take the sum of the torques about P (hinge pin at top)  The forces P and T disappear as the moment arm is zero.
Sum Torque = 0 -> (L/2 sin(theta) * 2 W)(clockwise+) - R 2L cos(theta)(counterclockwise, -ve)
            = LW sin(theta) - 2RL cos(theta)
            = W sin(theta) - 2R cos(theta)
            2R cos(theta) = W sin(theta)
            R = W tan(theta)/2

Consider the results -  if the door is closed, theta is zero and tan(theta) is zero.
If the door is fully open, tan(90) -> infinity and the universe ends.
If the door is open 89 degrees, then the force at R is 57/2 W.
At 85 degrees, it's 11/2 W.
So you'll need to restrict the door opening with a stop in the track somewhere to keep things within reason.   The greatest forces will occur at the top of the track.


What’s the difference between these wires? I’m re-doing some drywall and relocating a couple outlet receptacles. In the kitchen multiple types of wire was used and I’m not sure why. The white 12-2 was used throughout the house, but in the kitchen a silver wrapped wire was used as well. In the first photo the very wide wire on the right runs to an outlet used for a gas range. The smaller silver wire is used randomly for light switches and outlets. Is there a specific application for this wire? It’s in bad shape, so it’s difficult to see any labeling. I’m not sure when this was installed, but the house was built in the 60s.

The “silver wrapped” is the original cloth wrapped wire. Your home looks to have previously been rewired. This is quite common for houses built as late as the 50’s to have this original cloth wrapped wire. The 60’s may be some cloth was still out there but if it is in bad shape why not replace it there is nothing special about it.


Dimmer stopped working but light switched on after maybe short-circuiting ceiling light I pulled out the pendant light bulb that was hanging at the center of this metal framed Turkish style lamp. The light bulb touched the metal frame and there was a sudden explosive sound, burning smell and you can see at the top center in the pic, the metal got burned and melted. The light bulb was still on. I turned the light off and on again to test it. The lightbulb switches on no problem, but now the dimmer is not working. Anybody know what broke and what I need to buy and do to fix this?

You have probably burnt out the dimmer due to the inrush of current during the short and I am guessing the on/off switch on the dimmer is mechanical and didn't burn out. The common cure for this is to replace the dimmer. When you do that you need to connect it up with the power off. Then turn the power on an see if everything is working.

Good luck


How to frame bypass doors with metal studs? I am using metal studs (25ga steel) in my basement for a room. This room will have a closet with two sets of bypass sliding doors. The doors are 30" wide (and fairly heavy) and with a 1" overlap, will require a finished opening of 59" for each set.
My understanding is that the metal studs probably won't support the weight of these doors on a track so I will need to install a 2x4 frame with a header. What size header will I need and how big of an opening should I be leaving to account for the wood framing, header, and probably 3/4" door frames. Anything else I need to consider?

You will need a rough opening of 61" wide for a wood jamb. This will allow room for 3/4" material and shim space for critical shimming to get it dead straight and plumb. Will need more info for the R.O. height....
When you set your steel track to the floor, cut it so the ends meet the rough opening dimensions. Set the steel studs back 1 1/2" from the ends at the rough opening. A double 2X6 header with a plywood filler should work for practically any door of any weight you choose to use.
Screw the wood jack studs to the steel studs using coarse thread screws Same with the bottom of the jack studs where it sets in the bottom track. Set your header on top of the jacks and screw them in place. Ideally to the jack studs too, but you may need pilot holes to minimize splitting.
Be certain you use the proper set back for the finishes whether you are using wood jambs and casing or going with a simple drywall wrap.

I don't know how much room your particular bypass hardware takes up, but if you have your doors already and they are 6'8" and your track and roller use another 2" to 2 1/2", you have room for a plate under the joist. Secure it well to the joist that is over it, shimming it flat and level if needed and set the track directly to that. Use 9/16" thick wood trim to cover the track so it flushes up with the drywall once that is installed, then the trim/casing will cover the joint between the head covering and drywall.
The metal studs will be 1/8" wider than the wood plate. Using 9/16" material at the top should allow the 1/2" drywall and wood trim filler to lay flush with one another.


Is this ceiling pendant double insulated? I bought this ceiling rose off Amazon (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Modern-Antique-Brass-Ceiling-Lighting/dp/B00CJ9GE9Q):

It's not like others I've seen as it has a black input sheath to a connection box, which also closes over the top. Does this mean it is double insulated?

Thanks

Read more: http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/is-this-ceiling-rose-double-insulated.455292/#ixzz42hkRqkKZ

No. Class 2 (double insulated) devices are not fitted with a ground wire, and must not be grounded. Instead, they're constructed with much sturdier insulation to ensure that exposed parts cannot become live, even in the event of a fault occuring.

They're also required to display the double insulated symbol; a square within a square.

The cover over the terminal strip is to protect against fingers or metallic objects falling into the terminals.


Family Room Lighting I'm remodeling our family room (drywall is up and mud is almost done... and yes, I'm realizing I should have figured out a lot more specifics of lighting before finishing the drywall).  The room has no lighting currently but I did run electrical for 3 way switches... we plan to do recessed lighting.  Here's the question... how many canned lights is recommended?
The room is 16 by 21.5 ft.  It's got a fireplace one the south side, large opening to dining/living room and kitchen bar on west side, large picture window w/casements on east side... the north end of the room has an entryway area (NE corner), and hall w/laundry, bathroom and garage entry (N center of room). The ceiling is 8'.
I'm reading mostly that the cans should be 4 ft apart (2-3 feet from the wall.  That comes to 20 lights!  Seem like a lot.   I plan to do 2 for accent on the fireplace.
Not sure if I should do 4" or 6" cans... what determines that?
Also, I'm thinking about zoning them (i.e. put them on 3 or 4 different switches/groups).

Is there another approach I should be taking to figuring this out?
I'm getting mixed answers/recommendations.
Nate

This is some anecdotal information without any technical references.  There are ways to calculate the amount of light needed for a room, but I opted for an experimental approach and never learned how to calculate it.

I just replaced the fluorescent lights in my kitchen with recessed lights.  I temporarily hung the lights from the ceiling with a cut up extension cord for power so I could test different brightnesses and color temperatures.  It looked ridiculous.  What I found is that I was going to need to try and match, lumen for lumen, the lights that I was removing.

There were 4 fluorescent bulbs that put out about 2000 lumens each (8000 total) positioned in an 8' strip (two sets of two) in the middle of the room.  At first I assumed that I could get away with less lumens because I was spreading out the light, but what eventually happened was using 7 recessed cans (6") that each had LED drivers rated at around 1300 lumens.  The cans were spaced about 5' apart.  The apparent brightness of the 9100 lumen total was similar because we went with a warm white light.  The harsh, cool white fluorescent lights seem a little brighter per lumen.

So how does any of this help you?  Well, my advice is to experiment with lights.  Hang up whatever lights you can find with a lumen rating and see what it looks like (day and night).  I bought several types of lights to test and returned the ones I didn't use.  Even if you just get 3-4 LED shop lights and hang them up you will get an idea of how many lumens you need.  The can lights will be more spread out, but once you figure out the overall quantity of light you want, you will be in a much better place to finalize the design.

Other thoughts:  Lower ceilings call for wider angle lights, so try to find the angle on any bulbs/LED modules you find.  Lower ceilings can also call for tighter spacing on the lights.  Spacing of 5' was good for my 9' ceilings, but you might need 4' spacing if you want a lot of light.  I'd stick with 6" cans for such a large space.  Color temperature is also important.  You probably want a warm white (3000K) for a family area.

I found that LED modules in the 600-1000 lumen range were fairly easy to find.  Anything over 1000 lumens is more rare, but available.  For warm white, lights around 1300-1400 was the best I could find.  Cree has 1600 lumen model (150w equivalent), but it only comes in a bright white.  Also keep in mind that my goal was to get as much light as I could.  A family room might be ok with less light (depending on how you use the room).


What is the correct placement of a 2nd story through-wall bathroom vent I have a 2nd story bathroom which is a little too humid unless the window is left cracked all the time, greatly decreasing the efficiency of our HVAC system. I would like to install a bathroom fan with a timer switch but want to make sure the humid air is ventilated safely and in a code-compliant manner. Home is in california, if that makes a difference.
Venting through the roof is not an option, the 2nd story of our home is covered in solar panels and I don't want to risk damaging anything up there.
In the picture below I have highlighted possible locations for an external through-wall vent for the bathroom fan ducting. Locations #1 and #2 are clearly too close to the gable vent. Location #4 is also directly below the gable vent, which worries me that warm humid air may be drawn back into the attic.
Locations #3 and #5 seem like the best option available. Is there anything wrong with this approach? Would this be a violation of any building codes for a bathroom exhaust vent?

I would be using position 3 as position 5 is close to the window being that high up it will not be a problem for the condenser and compressor unit for your AC / heat pump I would agree the other 3 positions 2 at the vent would allow the moisture to be sucked into the attic space and the one over the window is two close as #5 is to 2 windows so I would say #3 is the best option.


Where could the water leaching from the base of the drywall be coming from? I am building a new home and have insulated the walls with 1" of foam and paper backed fiberglass insulation. After the contractor put up drywall he recommended plastering the ceilings and the walls for a better and harder finish. After this was completed and the plaster walls were dry enough, we started to paint.

During this time I noticed water leaching out from the bottom of the drywall. It was bad enough that it pooled and left brown water marks on the sub floor. The water shows up at different spots in the home for example, by the sliding glass doors, in the great room and master bedroom. All these areas are outside walls in a cold weather climate.(upstate New York) I have also noticed a lot of water on the interior of the windows especially while the ceramic tile was being laid and during the painting of the interior.

The house has vinyl siding, and has been wrapped with a blue Dow whole house wrap.

To a certain extent, moisture is unavoidable during construction. However, this is why you don't build in winter, especially in your climate, because the surface temperatures of many smooth materials (your windows, tile, plaster) are going to fall below the dew point, especially if the heating system hasn't been installed yet. When that happens, any moist air nearby is going to condense on them and turn into liquid water.

Since you can't change the season, and you can't remove the surfaces that are receiving condensation, if you want to cut your losses, hurry up and install the heating system right now, or else insist that construction take place only in the presence of construction-grade space heaters and dehumidifiers to keep moisture down and the interior heated to above the dew point.

Finally, I hope you don't have poly sheeting under the drywall. If you do, it would be worth it to eat the cost of removing the drywall and the poly sheeting. This stuff is incorrect to install, as it is a smooth vertical surface that will receive a lot of condensation when it falls below the dew point temperature. A lot of moisture is present in adjacent materials during construction, and if it's cold out... do the math. Your walls are going to weep like crazy and present an ongoing problem.

More worryingly, it sounds like your general contractor doesn't really know what he's doing. You should not be building a house during a cold upstate New York winter, and your drywall should not weep during construction due to un-dealt-with moisture loads. Additionally, 1" of foam outside the sheathing is far too little for your climate, and kraft-faced fiberglass batts are the worst, lowest-grade insulation out there; they perform very poorly.


Is it OK to underpower a run capacitor? Have to replace a 55uf MFD 440 Volt VAC (model 97F9042). Is it OK to, at least temporarily, replace it with a 45uf 440V one (model ITAN PRO TRCF45)?
(Some specific details of my situation. It's not clear that the capacitor is the only issue. It's just obvious that it's broken. I could order one from Amazon and it'll be here in two weeks. I could have a local HVAC company come and fix it and it'll cost me $300. So if the above solution can last me 2 weeks without further damage to the system, I'll be happy to go with it while I wait for the part from Amazon.)

Your terminology is a bit off   A 55uf 440v cap Provides a phase shift for the motor so you will not be under powering the cap but the motor.
Will it work with a 45uf?  Probably but start may be a bit harder.
I change caps quite regularly on single phase systems , I try to stay within 10% of the original, if I don’t have one that is within 10% would I use one that is almost 20% under?
Yes I have and it worked until I could get the proper size 3 days later.
I did monitor the start & run currents the system I believe was a 5 ton it was drawing close to max on startup ~35 amps and was taking 2-3 seconds prior to drawing less so I checked it it worked did not draw two much but did not leave them without cooling on a hot day(s).
Having the wrong size will cause the motor to take longer to start drawing more power so you don’t want to do this with a system that short cycles 5 starts per hour no problem from what I have measured but it should be replaced with the proper diced cap soon. The extra draw is not only hard on your motor but on the contactor an electronic switch inside the unit that uses a low voltage to turn on a higher voltage /high current device like the compressor motor or fan.
So it is possible but you should verify the system can get to speed (it usually takes longer) not all systems have the same sizes so without the motor size it is a possibility where I have done this.


Keep or new baseboard? Putting in engineered floors where there was carpet before.  The carpet was put in before the baseboard I imagine to help hold the carpet down and avoid damaging baseboard during carpet install.  My question is: Should I remove and put in new baseboard or use the gap under the (above the floor)baseboard where the carpet was an the expansion space for the new wood floor?

I usually save the baseboard especially if it is real wood. Using caution it can be pulled and the finishing nails removed then after the floor is installed it can be put back in at the proper height for the new flooring.


Whole house fan possible with vaulted ceiling? I live in an area where I think a whole-house fan would be a big benefit.  But my upper floor has a vaulted ceiling.  I don't know anything about the construction.

There is a ceiling fan, but it doesn't do anything to introduce cool air into the room.

Are there products out there for this situation, or should I give up hoping that I can get one to work?

Ceiling fans are not the same as whole-house fans, nor are they designed to 'introduce' any air into the room, they merely circulate it.

A whole-house fan is entirely different from a ceiling fan. A whole-house fan pulls air from the house and exhausts it out through the roof. Cool air comes in through open windows.

Typically they're installed in an attic, but some simple searching finds units that can be mounted in a vaulted ceiling with no attic space.

So yes, you can install a whole house fan.

By contrast, a ceiling fan is usually installed in high vaulted ceilings to circulate air. Heat rises, so you can get a very big thermal difference between the air the ceiling and floor. It's actually most beneficial in the winter, running in reverse, to push the warm air down out against the walls and down into the room.


2 wires going into one terminal on a single pole switch? I am very much a newbie when it comes to this stuff. I have to replace a broken light switch. When I took it apart, this is what the wiring looked like- one wire backwired and one using the side screw. What does this mean? Can i rewire it the same way with a new switch? Thank you in advance.

The 2 wires are normally your hot coming in and then going on to another device the single wire is usually the switched hot to the light. I do not like back stabs; they usually hold up on lighting only circuits, but when the other wire is to a chain of outlets, all the power is going through that stab, a very tiny contact area. The stabs get hot and quit working and even melt switches but more often receptacles. I like to use a short piece of wire with a wirenut connecting the hot coming in and out and the short wire, or pigtail, to the switch.  A lighting circuit for a room is usually fine if one must use backstabs, but I prefer the screw terminals even though they take longer to install myself and the electricians I work with use pigtails.

It could be a single hot going out to 2 different lights, also, but the first scenario is the most common.


How can I remove the tile from this wall? Doing a tile removal on our master tub/shower.  I'm pretty sure the tile is original to the house, which is 34 years old (1978).  It's a 4 1/4 inch tile, that has been backed by dry wall.  When I was at Home Depot, I asked about what the best tool was and was directed to a 2 3/4" "Electricians" chisel.

After watching a few videos, it appears many people use some sort of curved chisel to help approach the back of the tile with a more perfect lateral, where as with the chisel we have (above) is straight and will always angle into the wall/backing a bit.  I'm not sure if that's part of our problem or not.

Right now, the tiles are coming off in very very small pieces - maybe thumb or finger size if we're lucky.  Furthermore, they are really only coming off with the drywall backing.  If we get the chisel in deep enough and try to pry, the whole wall of tile moves, but clearly not enough to just pull the whole thing off as one piece (tile + drywall backing), given the nails keeping the drywall anchored are (as expected) numerous and spaced through-out the backing.

Any recommendations? Are we using the wrong tool here?  What should I expect when removing from dry-wall backing?  Should we loosen the grout first with a grout-removal tool (we have an oscillating multi-tool we can get the grout-head for)?

Below are some pictures of what we are seeing.  These three pictures represent the sum of about 45 minutes of actual chisel work, and a huge mess of tiny and in some cases pulverized tiles.

When I used to do a lot of these for a building/renovation company, the approach our foreman recommended was to assume the drywall will need replacing anyway and just rip it out. That would let you remove that entire panel in 45 minutes, and then you can just pop a new piece of drywall in, which is another 15 minutes.

As you can see from your 45 minutes, the drywall is going to be ruined, so just bite the bullet - get in behind it and pull it all off. The use of a crow bar and hammer may help here.

If you are wanting to keep the tiles on the adjacent wall, make sure you have cut a gap in at the corner so you don't rip it out as well.

Also, make sure you have something over the drain, to avoid it becoming clogged (I know - sounds obvious, but people do forget)

Updated to incorporate comments

Cement board and a vapour barrier are the only suitable backing for your tiles here. Drywall shouldn't have been in there to begin with.
Watch out when hammering around plumbing, to avoid water leaks adding to your worries!


How should I connect a Wink relay when two circuits are involved? I'm installing a Wink relay that has two switches for lights. The double gang box I want to install it in also has two switches that are operating lights only. My problem is that each light is on a different circuit breaker.

The Wink relay has only one line in and two loads out. Can I switch one of the lights to the other's circuit and leave a hot line in the box with a wire nut?

It is always safe to leave a hot wire capped off with a wire nut. However (as Harper says), you must also disconnect and cap off the corresponding neutral wire.

Find and remove the wire nut connecting the neutral that you want to discontinue. Having separated the wires, cap off the one leading to the circuit breaker. Connect the one from the light to the neutral wire nut that will remain in use.

fig.1a, left: Existing circuits; fig.1b, right: Modification for Wink 2-load control.

You should add up the total loads on each of the two circuit breakers, and power the switch from the one with the lighter load. The illustration assumes that the power feed on the right was from the more heavily loaded breaker.

You might consider leaving a label "no longer needed" taped to the wires, but that is not required, and any future maintainer who sees the two loads and the double gang box will not be horribly confused by what you did.


winterizing the outdoor faucets I have rental condos in Dallas areas. Although the weather in north Texas is relatively warm, but at least once yearly that the temperature drops to low 15's, therefore I have to winterize the outdoor hose bibs thoroughly. Here are my two questions:

(1) I would like to replace the outdoor hose bibs with frost-free models. Looking at the products sold in Amazon, it appears to me that there are basically two groups of hose bibs: One that costs around $15-$17, the another triple the first one at $45-$50. What are the catches? I also see that Home Depot and Lowes sell only the later, you can see the products by clicking the Amazon link here.(Keeping with the forum rules, I am not asking for recommendation of any specific brand name or manufacturers.)

(2) I plan also to supply the tenants with rolls of bubble wrap during the lowest of Winter times, and cap them off with foam cups if possible. Is bubble wrap more effective than rags in protecting the faucets?

Thank you for your time and pointers.

Much of the piping in the Dallas area is not able to receive these long-stem freeze resistant hose bibs. Maybe yours is, but maybe not. The threaded fitting must be way back in the wall on the inside of the insulation in the heated zone. And unless the valves go into a basement I wonder how one checks for leaks when installing a new one.

I also notice that the more expensive of these are described as "quarter turn" which almost certainly means they are ball valves. Ball valves are great as an on-off valve, but are not good for metering, i.e., adjusting flow through a range.

I installed quarter-turn ball valves at our house the last time I replaced the two outside hose valves at our house (in Dallas), but the ones I got are too hard to turn to use easily. These were good quality "garden valves" made in Italy, but were a mistake for this use. I am going to have to devise a longer handle for them. Everbilt 3/4" garden valve. Our hose piping comes out of the ground and not from the side of the house.

In cold weather I disconnect the hoses and cover the faucets with insulation and a plastic flower pot. Probably you could just supply your tenants with a foam cover that is secured to the faucet with a clip or a rubber band.


How to add draught to simple box stove? I've designed and installed a small stove to burn wood scraps and bio-briquettes. The stove is really simple box-shaped stove as drawn here below.

However the stove does not work properly: the fire dies quickly, most probably because there is not enough draught. Opening the door a little helps creating a draft, but then smoke fills the room instead of running out through the chimney.

I would like to improve on the stove, so the fire may burn happily. I have been told the 45° elbow on the chimney reduces the air draught, but changing this now would be a bit hard.

I've thought of adding some openings:

by perforating the bottom and adding a tray below. This would possibly create draft and allow to clean ashes more easily.
by perforating the front wall at the bottom with some holes, adding a small grid to prevent sparks from sneaking out.

Do you think any of the two options here above would improve the stove do increase draught? Do you have another suggestion?

You have to change the stack size. I'm pretty sure there's a mechanical code requirement for solid fuel burning appliances have a 6" flue minimum. Only tested and listed appliances can have smaller. The stack needs to outlet well above surrounding roof. For adequate draft, it should be at least 10 feet high and have minimal horizontal offsets.

You cannot load from the top, it must be from the end opposite the stack exit. This is also where combustion air should enter. The air intakes must be controllable. This can be by any simple sliding or rotating plate arrangement that can be moved over the openings at any time needed.

I'm sorry for being blunt here, but you don't know what you're doing. You do not understand in the least anything about the physics of combustion. You stand a very real chance of either burning down your building and/or poisoning yourself and anyone with you with carbon monoxide. There's many little details you must know to install a safe solid fuel burning appliance. Too many to put forth in a forum like this.

If you choose to proceed anyway, at least invest in a carbon monoxide detector and a large fire extinguisher. PLEASE.

Edit 12/3: Nepal! That paints a different picture. While my concerns for your safety remain, your access to resources are severely limited. Here's a few more thoughts on making your installation safer and more usable.

Be sure there is plenty of clearance between components and combustible materials. At least 30" from the box to combustible walls. If there is less space available, place sheet metal heat shields on the walls with an open air space behind.

To minimize creosote build up, if available, use double or triple wall flue pipe. Consider constructing your own from different single wall sizes if necessary. In any case, ensure there is good clearance from flue pipe to combustible construction, especially where it goes through walls or roofs. 2" for triple wall to maybe 6" for single wall. Use sheet metal to fill the gaps. Obtain a proper size chimney brush to clean out the inevitable build up. Use it often.

The flue outlet needs to be well above the roof as I mentioned, specifically, at least 18" above any point of the roof within 10 feet of the outlet. The outlet should be screened to prevent large hot embers from flying out and igniting something in the area.

As Fiasco mentioned, fire brick lining is important. Besides protecting your box, it buffers the heat output to a more constant, comfortable level. Otherwise, your heater will perpetually be either too hot or too cold.

A good draft is your best insurance against carbon monoxide leakage. Do not use your heater unless you've determined that it is inducing a good reliable draft. While a little back puffing when you first open the door to stoke is acceptable, you should not otherwise observe any smoke leaving the box through any opening, ever. Except for the flue of course.

Be safe!


How do you solve a problem like a mystery switch? I have a couple of switches in my house that I can’t determine what they do. How do I figure out what they are connected to, or otherwise troubleshoot a mystery switch to try to get it to work again?

Start by opening them up and seeing if they've been bypassed.  Sometimes people eliminate a switch, and then don't bother removing the switch because they don't want to be left with an empty hole.  If you find a bypassed switch, un-bypass it.
Some switches actually switch power to a receptacle.  This is often done instead of an overhead ceiling light, because that saves the builder a couple of dollars. There's a complication: As you know, most US receptacles have 2 sockets. The sockets can be split to be separately controlled: if you ever hear something about "tabs" on sockets, that's what that's all about.  It's common to split and have one socket switched and the other always-hot.  So you need to check 'em both... on each recep.
Sometimes, novices replace receptacles (they don't like the color) and they don't even realize that tabs are a thing, so they don't break off the tab like the old one was.  This will have the effect of defeating the switch. Spotting these is a bit of a trick, and the only way is to open up the receptacles and look for odd wiring.


Problem with vinyl floor My little one dropped a bottle of kerosene and it's all over my vinyl floor in the kitchen. Water is not working to clean it, and I'm scared to use anything else. Any suggestions from expert people? Thanks!

Kerosene is a solvent and, like vinyl, also a hydrocarbon. Their molecular structure causes them to bind together, and if left untreated the kerosene will soften and possibly dissolve the vinyl.

You can use a solution of water and mild soap such as dish detergent to break the bond and soak up the kerosene. Do not flood the floor with the solution. Use small amounts on a sponge or mop - wipe, rinse in a separate container and repeat. Be careful not to scrub the floor as it may scratch easily in its softened state. Evaporate any remaining kerosene by blowing a fan across the spot where it spilled.


What does it mean to get 2 phases of 110v outlet? I'm a serious DIY-er and does little bit electric work on/around my house.

We are getting a new equipments in my garage that requires 220v.

But instead of running a 220v into garage, we got a converter adapter that works with 110v outlet to turn into 220v. But it has to have a 2 110 receptacle that are on 2 different phase.

Does it mean, the both receptacles, need to draw power from the panel each on a different pole?

In the US, most household service is two legs of 120v plus a neutral. You can get 120v between either leg and neutral or 240v. Esteem both legs. In most breaker panels, single-width breakers alternate legs vertically and are opposite legs left and right per row. As you noted, you need to find outlets on breakers on opposite legs.

For example, if the breaker slots are numbered 1-10 on the left and 11-20 on the right, you could use 1&2, 2&7, 3&13 but not 1&3 or 2&11.

Also, these adapters are very dangerous. If you have one 120v plug connected and your 240v load connected but the other plug lose and you tough the prongs on it, you could get shocked. (These devices can be made safe using internal relays but most do not have these.)


Pouring foundations in cold weather, builder didn't protect them - how to tell if it is set right? Our builders have just poured the foundations for our house this past Friday, but did not cover them to protect them from the cold. We experienced temperatures ranging from -2 to -7 overnight during the last two days, with highs of +6 in the day. I am concerned about the integrity of the strength of the foundations, I have read this type of exposure to cold unprotected can ruin the foundations, and they are most at risk of this in the first 24-48 hours. Are my foundations compromised?

He did say he used a low water mix with an accelerator to help it set quickly, he also said because they were pouring below the frost line (in the ground 85cm) it would be fine. However I don't want the build to continue until I am sure they are ok

1) What are some signs I should look for so see if there are issues with the foundations?
2) How long will these signs take to show up? I want to be sure before we continue the build.
3) In your opinion is it likely these foundations would need to be dug up and re-poured? (we plan to do a third story extension in the future so they need to be right)

you sound canadian from the metric and the cold in march, so i will answer with some familiarity.  i'm a general contractor in southern ontario so i am very familiar with it.  you absolutely cannot let concrete freeze in the first 24 hours.  never, never, never, never.

generally, lows at night below freezing are highly undesirable for concrete here.  even if it gets super hot the next day, it doesn't take much below zero to get frost penetration into the concrete.  however, as the anhydrate in the concrete mix depresses the freezing point, it can fare fine below zero for a while.  its all site and condition specific.  a good wind can drive the concrete into freezing, whereas the same concrete and no wind might be fine.

however, as concrete generates substantial heat as it cures, it might be okay, but at the very least, it would have to be tarped and blanketed, or as we often do here, buried in hay for the first week.  sometimes you just tent the whole foundation and just run diesel heaters for the first three days.  either way, you have to prevent freezing.

from your description, it sounds like the concrete was poured unprotected into forms that were probably on frozen ground, or at least very cold (bad as it accelerates freezing).  if this is the case, and you had no surface protection, you will definitely see problems.  unfortunately, as these problems are essentially in how the concrete crystallized internally, you may not see problems for years.  it will first show up as microfractures at corners, then spalling at the frost line, and finally, dissolution of the foundation walls, usually at the outside bottoms (where the weeping tile is).  you cannot prove it until the concrete has fully cured, 28 days on, and it requires core samples and engineering studies.  you cannot rely on the word of the contractor or the concrete supplier.  they obviously don't want any liability.

step 1 - start documenting everything.  photos, pour dates and weather reports, etc.  have it all notarized to prepare for the inevitable court case down the road.

step 2 - get a lawyer to put it all in writing to the contractor.  even if its not a statement of claim, it goes on the record.  if your home is in ontario, it will be registered with tarion, and you can use it all to fight it down the road

step 3 - you can go so far as to file a statement of claim if you get engineering data back that proves it.  better to demo a bad foundation and do it again than repair a bad foundation ten years from now with a house on it and finished landscaping and driveways around it.

good luck and remember, wishful thinking and hoping for the best are recipes for disaster in house construction.


Should I tie into the ERV or just vent outside to increase bathroom ventilation? Our bathroom currently only has an intake connected to the Energy recovery ventilation (ERV) to remove humidity, and it's completely inadequate even for a quick shower. Should I install an exhaust fan that just vents straight out the roof, or are there options for improving the effectiveness of the ERV system?

Firstly check if the filters on the ERV unit need replacing, as dirty filters will reduce air flow.  (Our filters need to be replaced every year and cleaned a few times a year.)

Your ducts may be blocked somewhere.

The outlet from the unit, to the outside may be blocked.

It is likely that the inlet in the bathroom can be adjusted to allow more air flows through it.  However this will mean less air gets removed from other “wet” rooms. On our this is done:

Turner the cover to remove it from the ceiling.
Undoing a locking nut
Turning the value head to increase/decrease the size of the gap.

Most ERV units have some way of controlling the speed of the fan, but turning it up will use more power.

Some ERV have a boost function that can be control from a switch or sensor in the bathroom room.

However to do a good job of this you need an air flow meter to check what is going on.  It will help if you know if the ERV ever worked well, as there may be a design fault or it may not have been installed according to the plans.


Voltage drop in receptacle circuit - options? This is new construction...concerned about voltage drop. The house is a ranch style.I am installing a breaker panel in my garage. I am currently running the wiring (12-2) on a 20 amp breaker for the outlets in my bedroom. Since I have quite a few doors I am going up and down the studs adding quite a bit of length to the furthest circuit. Furthest length approx. 160' . According to a voltage drop calculator 12 gauge should be run. The question I have is: Can I run 10-2 wire to the 1st receptacle in the room and then continue on with the remaining receptacles using 12-2 ? (I would end up with about 80' of 10 gauge to get to the bedroom and then the remainder 12 gauge.)

The answer is yes, you can mitigate voltage drop by running a larger wire to the first outlet, then normal size wire from there.  Voltage drop is additive.

Let's say you run 10 gauge 100' to the first outlet and 12 gauge 60 feet to the last outlet, and you have the full load of 20 amps on a duplex receptacle at that last outlet.  (Very unlikely but just as an example.)

You'd drop 4 volts on the #10 to the first outlet, then another 3.8 volts on the #12 to the last outlet, for 112.2V - that would be marginal, 6.5% voltage drop.  (Just used an online calculator for these calcs, but they seem about right.)

I am getting #6 wire to keep 120V at full load of 20 amps under the NEC recommended 3% voltage drop.  Nobody would do that but that's the actual worst case.  In reality it's pretty rare to see voltage drop problems with #12 wire in residential systems.

Is it important to keep the voltage drop to 3%?  Would 5% be OK?  What's the limit?
 Depends on what the utility delivers, it may be under or over 120V.  Lots of things run fine on a wide range of voltage, others are very fussy about voltage.

Will the load really be 20 amps?  Maybe every morning with a space heater and a hair dryer running, more likely well under that.  Could you get by with a 15A circuit?  What will the actual load be?

Can you route the cables differently to shorten the run?  Could you run it more staight line to the first outlet through the basement or attic, or maybe just bore holes higher in the walls to miss the doors?

If you really want to keep voltage drop really tight, your might have to  consider rearranging things with a subpanel at the other end of the house.  That will take some effort and expense, and you'll have to find a spot for the subpanel, but you may offset that with savings on wire and long convoluted pulls, and it will free up some space in your main panel.


Furnace Pressure Switch Testing I have a ComfortMaker combination furnace/AC for the back part of my house. The furnace kicks in, but never heats up. No errors are reported.  Started troubleshooting and took a peek at the pressure switch.

When disconnected, it's properly open (OL).  When it's running and the inducer motor has kicked in, the circuit closes, but it reads all over the place, constantly resampling, usually well over 1kΩ (and often as high as 20kΩ).

I've not been able to determine what a good read would be, though I'd expect it to be significantly lower than this (somewhat close to 0?).  I understand that the switch "not working" usually means it's doing it's job rather than it being faulty, but with that sort of constantly changing reading, and being so high, is it safe to assume that the switch is probably shot?

I don't have a manometer, and I suppose my inducer could just be incredibly faulty or somehow the negative pressure from the airflow is...  I guess wavering?  Occam's points at the switch, but HVAC isn't my area of expertise.

Measuring resistance on an element in a live circuit can produce weird results.

Disconnect one of the wires from the switch (or both if they're molded into a single connector), then measure the switch again while the inducer blower is running. The furnace controls won't detect the draft and will probably throw an error, but that's fine.

Switches can fail to a relatively high resistance state, but I'd guess it's unlikely.


Can I dig a foundation below flood elevation outside the Floodplain? Looking for answers from people building foundations near (not in) the 100 year floodplain. Does this trigger a floodplain build permitting process? Am I basically pigeonholed into a monolithic pour to avoid this? No one working on my foundation (excavators, concrete company etc) seems to know the answer or they think I should just "not worry about it".
My question is 100% a FEMA rules / what is allowed question. Not at ALL interested in whether I "should" or not. To dissuade your fears: This is a field in Montana near a creek that hasn't flooded the site in the last 100 years. I have some control over the flow in the creek. There are hundreds of houses around me, (many lower) which have never flooded (in 100 years). Even if this is all a terrible idea, I simply think it's worth the risk.
I DO care about the county or FEMA saying I did something wrong / making me change it. And, I DO care about a mortgage company forcing flood insurance (showing I am somehow in a floodplain) - pretty sure that won't happen however.
A picture says a thousand words:

Floor joists and the entire home and all electrical, 100% of everything is above the flood plain elevation.
I must: Apply for a permit for any modification or even moving a rock inside the 100 year floodplain. Does this count since I'm digging beneath it? The county did not specify and there no building permits in this county. They were adamant on proving my site is outside the 100 year floodplain (unless flood plain permitted).

The flood plain issues I had to deal with is more about the openings in the foundation to allow water to exit. As others have said have a Survey, my current home was in the flood plain until the survey , huge insurance jump because the lender required flood plain insurance until the survey. I am planning on an additional 3 car garage the county is the one that issue the permits, not fema.
If the county asks show them the structure is not in the flood plain, when you get your permit build to your plot plan and you will be fine.
I have a friend that built a house on poles to put the structure above the flood plain his footings for the poles were well below the 8’ or more “level identified as the 100 year level” the county only required engineering stamps on the plans, just like roof trusses require in most locations.
He has never had to have flood insurance.
Don’t bring up issues that you don’t want to deal with because as you said they go to the ultra safe side because they don’t want to be wrong. After living through several 500+ year floods he started enclosing the lower section I have not talked to him but last time I was in Corvallis the entire lower 1/2 was enclosed.
Monolithic pours are not the only way to go but you are not in the flood plane so get your permit.
Make sure you plan for drainage like a French drain under the low side with a heavy footing above that for insurance that it will drain this doesn’t have to be on the plans.
So submit your plot plan to the county and pay the fee.
If they ask , show the survey.
When approved start building and enjoy your home.


Converting two-vent fireplace insert into one-vent: how much combustion air access does it need? We recently took out a woodburning stove and are replacing it with a propane insert.

The insert is set for a 2-pipe direct vent configuration (one for combustion air, one for exhaust). Our contractor suggested converting to a single pipe--exhaust, and then just use interior combustion air. I was hesitant at first, but he made a good case--namely we're saving a whole lot of money in not having to extend the double wall pipe the 30+ feet up the chimney. But in addition, he said it's a common conversion in our area (relatively mild climate) and that it will be sucking a whole lot less air up the chimney than the old wood stove did anyways.

Since this is will be more decorative that utilitarian (it will be used on the occasional holiday or party and as back-up heat on the those power-outage occasions) I'm not too worried about the drop in efficiency. In fact, in the grand scheme of things, I'll be better off putting the money I saved on the vent pipe into a much more efficient propane HW heater.

Now, my question: Should I include a vent in the mantle surround to make it 'easier' for the insert to get combustion air? The installer said there's no need, as it's not drawing a lot of air, and there are enough holes on the underside of the fireplace and gaps in the surround that it should be fine. I thought I'd get a second opinion just to be sure. :)

The surround will be tiled on the front, but the outside is just a wood 'shadow box' type of construction, so I could easily pop in a 2" circle vent or such on the side. Any harm in that? Any benefit?

I think you have considered all the right aspects.  However, even in our mild climate (Pacific Northwest), we opted to run both 2 inch flex lines, but we had only 12 feet to go.  It is our primary heat source and during our coldest nights we really appreciate the lack of draw through the cracks and crannies.

There is no harm in creating a draw through the surround, but a 2 inch circle seems like it is an invitation for trouble:  what 3 year-old could not resist dropping a candy bar or an unfinished hot dog through there?

Maybe it could be a slit the width of the side instead.


How to drill a hole in a partitioned wall? I tried to drill a hole into a partitioned wall and came away with this:

As you can see I botched it big time. I have the following drill bits available to me:

I would like advice as to how to drill a hole in this type of wall and not make a mess of things again.

It looks like it should be easy and routine to drill through easily, though it is hard to tell what the material is from the photo.

Those six bits on the left are intended for drilling into masonry like concrete, ceramic, brick, rock, etc.  Be sure the material actually is like that.

If the material is fibrous (wood, paper) or metallic, instead use one of the yellowish bits in the center.

Be sure the bit rotates in the correct direction.  At slow speed, the bit spirals should appear to be pulling material from the surface out.  The bit is spinning in the wrong direction if it looks like the spirals would carry material into the hole.
Use moderate bit pressure to start the hole in the intended position.  Hold the drill firmly in position and as perpendicular to the surface as possible to prevent it walking across the surface.  Once the hole is started, then you can gradually reposition the drill to a non-perpendicular orientation if that is what is needed.  (Most holes are perpendicular.)
After the hole is started, the material will guide the bit and prevent it from slipping or jumping out as long as at least light bit pressure is maintained.  The focus then is holding the drill so that it goes the correct direction through the material.
For fibrous materials, increase the bit speed to "high".  For ceramics, set it to "medium".  The goal is to not take all day to drill one hole, but also not to overheat the drill bit or material surface.  If you see smoke, immediately stop, pull out, and wait a minute for everything to cool off.  Then continue with a slower speed and less bit pressure.
If the fractured material is not readily flowing out (through the bit spiral), periodically slide the bit mostly out of the hole and back in (without stopping the bit from turning) to allow it to clear.  Sometimes it is necessary to remove material stuck in the spiral manually (brush it out with a carpentry nail, small stick, or a finger with the bit out of the hole and stopped).
If applicable, monitor the depth of the hole by occasionally measuring its depth by inserting a probe such as a carpentry nail.  For repeating a controlled depth in a series of holes, wrap the drill bit with a band of masking tape such that the length of the drill exposed is the desired depth.


Can I use drywall screws to stop floor squeaks? I've got an old squeaky hardwood floor with access to from below. I can feel the hardwood boards moving under my feet when they squeak so I just plan to drill up through the subfloor into the hardwood. Would drywall screws do the job? I noticed they're cheap, which is good since I will need a lot of them!

The screws are #6 x 1 1/4" coarse thread (thickness of floor + subfloor is ~1 1/2")
The floor is 1 3/4" wide maple
The subfloor is 3 1/2" wide boards laid diagonal across the joists

I prefer working from under the floor when possible. Although it is easier to screw loose flooring down from the top, it is often difficult to fill the holes and make the color and finish match. Using the top down method is a last resort, especially if you have a large area to secure. The Counter Snap screws mentioned in the previous answer are great devices, but commonly used to secure squeaky sub-floors under carpet. They will work on wood, but prefer a counter-sunk finish screw. With finish screws, you can control the counter sink depth and the head is about the same size as a finish nail.

Using blind screws from the bottom is a common way to attack your problem. The method of "pulling" the finish floor snug is important. I have used drywall screws many times with great success. You have to be very careful to calculate the thickness of the subfloor and finish hardwood, so the screw does not protrude through the floor. If in fact the subfloor is pine or soft wood, a drywall screw may be a bad choice as they can be aggressive and counter sink themselves too deep. Remember, the goal is to pull the finish floor down snug. This can be done by predrilling holes in the subfloor at the same or 1/32" larger than the diameter of the screws. That way, the screws are only threading into the finish floor, not the subfloor. When the screw head contacts the bottom of the subfloor, all force pulls the finish floor down to the subfloor. You can use a collet or a piece of tape on your drill bit to gauge the depth of your holes and not go into your finish flooring. Rather than a countersinking screw, like a drywall screw, use a #8 panhead screw sized to only penetrate the finish floor 1/2" (for 3/4" flooring). Just tighten the screws enough to make them snug, don't try to over-tighten them as that may cause them to strip out. Plan on using quite a few screws. I usually start by spacing them 8 to 10 inches apart. In stubborn areas where the squeak just wont go away, you may need to add a few more screws.   Good Luck.


How do I stop the second floor of my house from being so hot in the summer and so cold in the winter I have a window AC upstairs in the summer but it is not enough I can fell the heat coming off of the ceiling in the summer and in the winter it is way to cold that my kids have to sleep downstairs please help

Sounds like your problem is insufficient attic insulation. In the summer, your attic gets hot, and that heat radiates down into the second floor. In the winter, your attic gets cold, and sucks heat out of your house, aided by the stack effect. Improving the insulation on your attic flow will help both of those problems. The typical approach is to blow cellulose into the attic floor. But be careful! If your house is old and there's already any blown insulation, it might be asbestos-laden vermiculite. You might want to consult a pro. Often it's barely more expensive to hire this job out than to do it yourself.


No junction box on exterior light? I just purchased a new built home and I was going to replace these exterior sconces when I noticed that none of them had a junction box, just like pictures below.
My initial thoughts were if this is up to code. I asked the builder if no junction box was normal and he said that the fixture is direct wired to the mounting hardware and that's all that was needed.
Is this true or should I be concerned?
BTW, this is on fiber cement siding (hardie board)

Lots of fixtures or canopies are made to attach directly to cable or conduit, with integral cable clamps or knockouts for suitable (listed, rated...) cable clamps or conduit entry.  This one is not.
The NEC requires light fixtures be listed, and used as intended by the manufacturer.  The metal ring in your photo is not for direct surface mounting, it's made to go on a box, using it for a surface mount is not compliant.
There are a few other code provisions that could be problematic, protection from abrasion and water seepage, etc.  They didn't even wrap the ground wire around the screw.  But the main thing you need here is a box.  Retrofitting it will be a bit of a project.
The box doesn't necessarily fix everything;  the fixture must be suitable (listed, rated for outdoor use, etc.) and made to mount on the type of box that you install.


Why is there copper in the corner of my shower behind the tile and drywall? I am in the middle of the demolition of my old shower and have come across this copper strip in the corner.

What is this used for? I assume it is somehow supposed to prevent water damage?

Many years ago copper was the best way to seal corners and also used at the overlap on surrounds. Today we use membranes, Or thick pvc sheeting to protect the structure and keep the moisture in the shower.


How much wattage to choose for LED light when replacing flourescent light with LED? Suppose I have a circular 22W flourescent light at home and I want to replace it with LED of similar brightness. How much wattage should this LED have? Any rule of thumb as guidance?

The salesman at the LED shop recommended me to replace 22W flourescent light with 22W LED. Can there be any energy saving if the wattage is the same?

A "22W" led bulb is typically rated as 22W incandescent equivalent. It would use only a fraction of that, likely 5 to 10 watts, and the light output would be similar. You can use the Lumens rating to compare the visible output of a bulb. A florescent bulb can also be rated as incandescent equivalent.

As to whether an actual 22W Led would be more efficient or not compared to an actual 22W florescent, it still would, in terms of how much of that 22W is converted from electricity to visible light instead of lost as heat.

Rule of thumb is incandescent produce 10 lumens per watt, florescent 50 lumens per watt, and led 75 lumens per watt.


To use or Not - Vapor Barrier for Brick House My wife and I recently purchased a mid-1800's brick schoolhouse and are remodeling it from top to bottom. We stripped the walls down to the original brick (3 brick layers deep), and we then proceeded to stud the brick walls with 2X4's in preparation for adding Roxxul stone wool insulation. Our plan is to install the insulation and hang 1/2" drywall to finish the wall. My question is whether or not it is necessary to install a vapor barrier after putting the insulation between the studs. I've read conflicting opinions on the use of vapor barriers with brick. Some people have said installing one can create mold issues in the wall and will not allow the wall to properly dry, while others say it is essential as the exterior of the brick can get icy due to moisture escaping from the porous brick. I am seeking some clarification and advice on how to tackle this problem! We live just north of Cincinnati on the boundary between climate zones 4 and 5. Any advice and help is much appreciated!

Thanks for reading.

NEVER use “expanding spray foam” on brick walls for four reasons: 1) expanding foam could put stress on the brick and crack the brick or the mortar joints, 2) too much insulation on brick could block heat transfer to bricks and cause the brick to crack, 3) moisture could get trapped in the brick, and 4) joists embedded in the brick wall could rot causing structural decay.

1) Spray foam is acceptable (and may be the best choice, although expensive) but EXPANDING SPRAY FOAM will crack the brick or crack the mortar joints. Rigid foam is acceptable, but must be carefully installed so as not to allow moisture to transfer into the wall, freeze and then crack the wall.

2) currently, warm moist air transfers into the brick and keeps the brick (and moisture) from freezing. Thickness of insulation must be considered so as not to make the inside of the brick too cold, freeze and then crack the brick.

3) you’ll need to determine if the type of brick will “absorb” moisture. Any moisture transferred from the exterior into the brick or any moisture transferred from the interior (via dew point) could freeze and crack the brick.

4) If joists are embedded in the brick, adding insulation could make the ends of the joists (on the cold side of the insulation) rot.

Some bricks are more vulnerable than others to freeze/thaw problems. This usually has to do with permeability. The thicker the insulation the greater the chance of cracking the brick wall during extremely cold times.


Gas water heater burner flame goes orange as I turn temperature dial up I am a new homeowner and am attempting to light a gas-powered water heater. I am following the directions step by step and have been able to get the pilot light lit with the temperature on the lowest setting. On the lowest temperature setting the pilot light is a blue flame as expected.

However, as I turn the temperature up the flame gets bigger and turns bright orange. After a few seconds, I decided to turn off the flame as I had read an orange flame that could indicate problem. I am wondering if it is expected that the flame will turn orange as the temperature dial is increased or if there is a problem with my heater.

Thanks

Your burners probably need cleaning. Regardless of whether you are talking about the pilot light or the main burner, an orange flame indicates an excess of gas to oxygen.

See, for example: https://www.hunker.com/12003355/why-is-my-gas-stove-burning-orange


I have a double light switch in my living-room that I want to cancel out for the time being How would I wire the wires together to keep power on throughout my house?

When it is disconnected I don't have power to my kitchen light, my hall light, my living room, nor back bath or bedroom.

Inside the box where the switches go there are 2 sets of wires coming through the top and 2 sets coming through the bottom, so a total of 4 black 4 white and 4 ground. How do I need to wire the circuit to keep power on without installing new switches?

Always turn off the power at the service panel before working on any house wiring.

The particular method depends on how the switches are wired.

If each switch has three wires (including the ground) connected to it, then the solution is very easy. For each switch: leave the ground wire connected, disconnect the other two wires from the switch terminals, straighten the ends, twist them together, and screw a wire nut onto the ends.

If any switch has more than three wires (including the ground) connected to it, then you need to make a diagram or photo to get help deciding which wires to twist together.


Was this countertop stabilized properly? I'm in Florida and recently moved into a new apartment complex. One issue we submitted for maintenance relates to a countertop you can see in the attached in the pictures. Basically, there were no brackets under it and it wobbled significantly. It looks like there were brackets previously, but were probably removed when a new counter was installed. In the pictures you can see how they resolved it. I'm not clear what type of brackets they are or what their intended use is, but they don't seem appropriate for this type of task. Am I wrong? Their placement/number also seems inappropriate; 3 total, one centered on each side and one at one end. The counter IS substantially more stable, but the end without brackets still has a little give. If it was my own house, I would have used heavier/longer brackets; two at each end at least. Is this something that we should ask to be redone?

What you're actually looking at are drywall clips. They are used to patch holes in drywall by supporting the patch to the existing wall.

Here's what they look like before being bent and used incorrectly.

The counter wasn't designed for this unit. My concern is that those screws are in drywall and will pull out. Definitely don't sit on that counter or put anything heavy on that edge. This should be fixed right before someone gets hurt.


What is this called? Oak Cabinet Cap? Can anyone help me figure out what these end caps are called?  The panel sticks out past the cabinet by about a 1/4" so these end caps are hollow and fit over the excess panel.

What are these called and where can I buy new ones?

If I was on a job and somebody was asking for that, they'd call it the little stile on the kick. I've never heard it given a real name.

I doubt you can buy one off the shelf. You can find a cabinetmaker or woodworker that'll make you one, though. Look for a smaller shop and bring cookies as well as money. If you have the old one, bring it with you.


How to remove "metal" tile adhesive from backsplash area? Is there no way? There is a similar question here from 2015 with no answer.

Our kitchen was tiled with thin, copper-colored aluminum tiles (probably in the '80s), which look like this:

The adhesive is brown, brittle, somewhat flexible, and could be acrylic or latex but I am unsure. It has a rather acrid "organic chemical" smell similar to plumbing putty:

I haven't tried a heat-gun yet but am thinking this may be the way to go. But before I do, are there any concerns? Any chance asbestos could be involved?

The amount of time and labor involved in removing adhesive would be extensive. Even if you get the adhesive off, you will likely damage the surface of the underlying drywall.

It may be much more efficient and effective to remove the drywall and replace with new.

Use of a heat gun is questionable. Heat could crack the nearby marble if held near it too long. It also can char the surface of the existing drywall, making it less stable for the next finish.

Asbestos is unlikely in a project done in the 80s. However, if the house is older, there could be asbestos covered pipes behind the wall surface from before the old reno. If you open the wall to replace the drywall, just be careful not to disturb any coverings on pipes.