Would a drain 28 inches high be too tall for a sink? I'm thinking about putting a sink in my basement, problem is to get a downward slope to the drain pipe I have to go up ~28 inches from the floor.  When you add the P-trap distance up, would that make the sink too tall?

I plan to use it as a wet bar. So just a small sink for washing out glasses and washing hands, dumping out drinks I guess.

It all depends on the use of the sink. Typical counter height ranges from ~ 30 inches to 36 inches. In bathrooms it is typically lower - 30 - 32 inches, but 36 inches is standard for kitchens in the US (dishwashers and slide-in ranges are sized based on a 36 inch high counter). A sink can even be a little higher, though above 36 inches a sink can be harder to use for shorter people. A lot also depends on the use - washing hands is different from washing big pots & pans.

Figuring on a bar sink with a depth of 10" (from a quick search, but I think that is typical), and adding a few inches for sink drain, coupling to trap, etc., my guess is your counter height (top of sink) should be somewhere in the 42" - 46" range. A quick search shows typical wet bar height at 42". That is really for the part between the bartender and the customers. The sink area behind the bar can be lower, but at least that gives a basis for a 42" height. A shallower sink (~ 8" instead of 10") would definitely help too.

If you are getting a plumber to do the work, I suggest you have them review the design before you purchase cabinets, counters & sink. If you are doing the plumbing yourself then come back with more specifics once you have a planned design and one of the experts (I'm not a plumbing expert) can review in more detail.


Can a HVAC be split between bonus room and garage, but with return and Tstat in bonus room? I have an insulated garage and bonus room above it. Can a HVAC feed both the bonus room and garage, but the bonus room have the air return and Tstat? The bonus room is accessible from inside the house, so there would be no "flow through" between the garage and bonus room. I'm not too concerned about the garage being at different temperatures than the bonus room, but want to insure there is not some issue with having two rooms with no shared air space, but the return in only one room.

There are multiple ways to do this but since it is a retrofit a 2 head (or more) mini split system makes the most sense.
With a mini split system each room has its own control.
There is no ductwork check them out.
the air in one room can be totally isolated from the other room.
With a conventional air handler the rooms can each have there own intake and output ducts but the air for the 2 rooms is mixed at the handler.
The ductwork gobbles up quite a bit of space and the controls can be in one room but if the rooms are not well balanced the controls will feel inadequate.
Look into a mini split I have multiple zones and they are quite efficient, if you are not using one room turn it off the compressor unit slows down and saves energy.
The pipes and power all fit through a hole in the wall for each room, if the rooms are large or 1 is, that one can have multiple heads if needed and the compressor is sized according.
If you want a central air add on it may cost much more than a mini and take up more space because of the ductwork. The temp control will be better with a mini each room being its own zone. The longer I have my mini split system the more I like it the efficiency is outstanding and comfort is a push of a hand held remote away.


Where should I expect to find the trap for my in-wall washing machine drain? I am trying to renovate an older home. The washing machine was installed in the master bedroom closet. The drain runs down inside the wall. I would like to move the machine to the lower level. My question is how far from the drain is the trap located. I can't find a trap in the present set up.

It's going to be below the opening in the wall - most commonly, directly below, which means that if you pull out the washer drain hose and insert a long, slightly flexible rod, you should feel  it hit bottom in the trap, and can make a mark to measure where the trap is with respect to the opening in the wall.

If you are concerned that it might be an elbow rather than a trap, be sure the rod is dry and wash has not recently been done so you can see (or not see) the waterline of the trap on the end of the rod.

And, ultimately, you can always rip open drywall and repair it (an unfortunately common method the way services are installed in houses.)

Personally, I'd suggest giving a try to leaving it where it is, if you have not - there's some sort of cultural tendency to put laundry in the basement, as far from where it's generated and stored as possible. It's worth questioning, and saves a lot of hauling if it's near where most of the sheets, towels, and clothes are used and stored. If moving the machine, I'd suggest leaving all the plumbing in place and putting a test plug in the drain opening, rather than removing the plumbing - a future owner of the house might appreciate it, and it's less work.


What could one spray inside solid core door to protect wood and create a tunnel? What could one spray inside solid core door to protect wood and create a tunnel?
Bought a pet door for a solid core door. Installed it, looks great, ezcept turns out the company doesn't make a tunnel for the door.

Is there any thing or combination of things I could spray that would cure to a plastic feel with a white-ish color?

If not, the door was cheap. I could always exchange it.

Is plasti-dip an option?

I think if you use a couple coats of good primer and a finish coat of enamel paint, you should be fine. Just be sure to work it into the wood well. Two thin coats are always better than one thick coat.  The cat door is gonna protect the cut edges quite a bit as well. Put a small bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the cat door bezel before you install it on the outside surface to seal that possible entry point from rain water.


Is masking tape left inside electrical boxes a safety concern? Recently I replaced all of my outlets and some of my switches in my apartment. On many of them, I used masking tape or painter's tape exclusively to identify wires (but never as insulation). I left the tape on the wires on the newly installed outlets and switches. Is this dangerous? Should I open up all my outlets and switches to remove all this tape?

Electrical tape would be fine. You can get it in many colors, too.

Masking/painter's tape does add some risk, as it's not got the same rated performance in overheating/fire conditions and might ignite or serve as a fuel source. It's a small concern, but it's a concern, and very probably a code violation.


Can you use drywall mud on hardiboard? I am looking at painting hardiboard or mudding and then painting.  Is that OK?

I don't see why not.  Hardiboard has even more texture than sheetrock for mud adhesion and at least as good of moisture absorption, so mud should adhere quite well.  Certainly the flex of Hardiboard is less than sheetrock, so there should be no issues with flexing causing cracking of dried mud.

But why would you want to?  Hardiboard is at least three times the cost of sheetrock and harder to install.


how to fasten shelf bracket? How do I fasten a shelf bracket correctly? I think I'll need to drive the two upper screws in at an angle?

This is a typical bracket with three screw holes: one at the bottom and two on the top.

The two on the top are on both edges of the bracket which means that I can't drive them into the stud (they'd be on the edge of the stud). Does that means that I'll have to drive the screws in at an angle?

Does this makes the whole arrangement less sturdy?

Here's a picture:

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.8-inch-x10-inch--black-shelf-bracket.1000770044.html

Thanks

P.S. If I drive the screws into the stud, do I still need to put the screw anchors in (it's drywall).

If you drive screws into a stud, you generally would not use anchors. There are screws available which go right through the drywall and bite into and grip in the wood stud.  In rare cases where you might use anchors in a stud it would not be "drywall" anchors but sleeve anchors which could possibly be used in drywall (but are not the best type for drywall) but are sleeve anchors for fastening screws into hard material of considerable thickness.

Anchors described as "drywall anchors" are usually designed to clamp onto 1/2" or 5/8" drywall and depend on having empty space behind the wallboard. Anchors of this design cannot be used in drywall right over a stud because they must expand on the inside surface of the drywall and if there is a stud there they cannot expand.

Some old resinous studs become very hard with age and it can be hard to drive screws directly into such a stud without drilling a pilot hole which is a little larger than recommended (but not so large that the screws don't bite well). I nearly always use wax lubricant on screws going into studs. Once I was attaching grab bars through drywall into old, hard studs in a bathroom. I resorted to drilling 3/8" diameter holes and inserting plastic anchors in to the holes, essentially treating the wood as it it were concrete. But I was very careful to get those large holes perfectly in the center of the studs.

A drill is not the best tool to use to drive screws into a tough material. There are now "drivers" which pulse or vibrate as the screw is turned. I still don't have one and have to resort to improvising which using a proper driver renders completely unnecessary.

It is sometime necessary to drive screws at a slight angle if the holes do not exactly line up with the studs and this can be done in a way which is perfectly acceptable. But why do you think you will have to do that in your case? Please describe the exact situation you have. How far apart are the holes in the bracket and how does this match up with the location of the studs behind the drywall? How are you locating the studs?


what is the easiest way too clean adhesive residue from glass? Stickers have left residue on some windows and old glass jars. I have typically used acetone to clean the residue but is there a better / easier way?

Orange oil (limonene) based cleaners dissolve sticker residue as well or better than acetone. Put some on, let it sit a bit, scrub a little with nylon,and wash off. There are zillions of different brands of the stuff.


What's the best way to relocate my wall vent? I recently removed a closet in our main living area and one of the closet walls contained an AC supply vent. This left a 4x12 hole in the floor where the old stack head was removed. While we could just buy a flush floor register cover before our floors get refinished tomorrow, I'd rather relocate the vent in the remaining wall next to the previous vent location.
I measured between the remaining closet wall studs and I'd have enough space for a 4x10 stack head (so a bit smaller than the old one). This leaves me with a couple of questions:

Can I trim the circular ducting beneath the subfloor back so I can fit an end register duct boot to the new location? Or do I need to replace the existing ducting with a shorter length and then attach the end register boot?
Will it cause issues if I relocate the outlet in that space to the opposite side of the stud it's currently attached to to make room for the new vent, or is placing an outlet that close to an AC register a bad idea?

Yes, you can shorten the duct as needed. If you need a crimped end to fit the new boot, a needle-nose pliers from the end and a bit of twist will create that for you.
If you're not running full ducting*, you'll need to either relocate the outlet or box around it with lumber so that it's not technically in the same cavity as the duct flow. Use silicone or some other fire-resistant caulk to seal the holes in the studs.

* Modern code may require full fire-resistant ducting for supply vents.


Can I use a hot wire on another panel? I have a room upstairs that's the size of a small studio apartment. My daughter decided to move back home but my tenant noticed that the room she moved into is tied into their apartment. I went to the panel box and noticed that there is a 12/3 wire in place.

My question is can I take the hot wire going to my kid's room and put it on my panel? Would it be ok with the ground and neutral still plugged into the other panel?

No is your answer.  Move the complete circuit or don't move anything  This can really be a safety concern if one panel is shut down and the neutral and ground are on a live panel, or vice versa.


Why does a motion detector provide enough power for an LED but not a class 2 transformer? So I am a bit out of my league on this so I am looking for help.  I went to HD and bought a few things:

Sprinkler Valve - Rain Bird
745407 Motion Detector (Used to turn on lights)
110vac 60Hz 23W to 24VAC 750 mA class 2 power supply
indoor outdoor cord

I cut the cord and hooked it to the feed into the motion detector and then the used the female plug and hooked it up to the motion out wires.  The thing is if I hook a LED light to the plug the motion works great and turns on the light.  But, it seems that it is not enough juice to turn on the power supply.  I really did not think the power would be downgraded going through the motion detector but it seems like it must be.

I am trying to build my own motion activated sprinkler to scare off ducks from the dock.  Any one has any idea on the correct parts needed to make this happen would be wonderful.  They make them but they are cheap and don't last.  I was hoping to build one that would last and be 110 volt so no batteries would be needed.

The problem is the electronics used by the motion detector modifies the since wave. Most power supplies today are switching supplies most will not function with a modified since wave. An old school transformer that steps the voltage down and a full wave bridge to change it to DC would do the job. I have a battery powered motion activated sprinkler close to my pool to scare ducks and geese away that has lasted for years with fresh batteries every few months. Like this. Not an endorsement but the one I have is several years old and still works.


Tips for measuring a front door opening? I'm getting ready to replace my front door with a brand new pre-hung door and have some questions regarding collecting measurements.

Where exactly should I measure? I've heard people use the phrase "rough opening" but I'm not sure what exactly that means.  Is that the frame area of the house that surrounds the doorjamb?

Also, should I be measuring from the interior of the house or the exterior?

The only info you need to order a new door is the actual door measurement.  36"X81" for example.  The term rough opening refers to the actual stud frame opening which you cannot see or measure with the existing door jams and trim installed. If you are concerned if your rough opening is large enough, you will need to remove the interior trim to see exactly where the studs and leader are. The exterior trim (usually brickmold ) is usually part of the prehung unit and attached when you get the new door unit.


Sonoff with a traditional Dimmer Switch Please excuse the crude drawing but would this work. In the UK so Brown is live, Blue is Neutral and Grey is Switched live. If left out the Earth from the drawing to simplify things.

I know control would be lost if switched off at the Dimmer but just wondering if this would work without setting fire to something.

Or, you could get a higher quality module, like an Insteon, which includes dimming all in one module.  Which lets you control both the switching and the dimming.

The biggest problem you have is the dimmer losing state when its power is severed.  When the Sonoff switches it back on, the dimmer will have no recollection of how dim it's supposed to be, and will default to ??? full brightness???   You could prevent that by using an old-style twist-knob dimmer, but they only work with obsolete incandescent lights, and between the electric bill and the cost of constant bulb replacements, that  defeats the purpose of saving money on the control equipment.  You're much better off getting the right stuff, going LED and saving a bunch on your energy bill, along with never having to change another bulb.

Another option, if you commit to LED, is to go 12V DC on the LEDs. They use different lamps and different control technology such as PWM - they dim very, very well... and the modules tend to be cheaper also.


Switch Plate too Thick I just bought this switch plate. Problem is, it has a thick rim on the back, so that it sits about 3/32 of an inch further out from the wall than a "normal" switch plate. The switches are flush with the wall, so they work fine with a normal plate. With this one they sit back from the plate, and the result looks really ugly. What am I overlooking? How do I use this switch plate with normal wall switches?

I've used these simple extenders/spacers to move an outlet slightly forward. Basically, just unscrew the outlet's top and bottom screws from the box, bend and pull off as many of the green spacers (probably you'll only need 2 per screw) as you need, then place over the outlet screw holes and screw the outlet back in through the outlet metal tabs, through the green plastic spacers, back into the box. Note: If the gap is > 1/4", you must get one of these instead (by code).


Strip back to concrete or just retile? We have taken ownership of my wife's late father's apartment which was built maybe 30 years ago. The workmanship is non existent, and tiles are held in place by adhesive tape, there's electrical conduit on the surface, and water pipes also on the surface. Someone even destroyed the bulkhead above to replace the hot water cylinder for the shower 2 years ago.  The major redeeming features of this apartment is that it's the only building with base isolation in the city，it's very central, and that was designed by my wife's father.

I want to renovate clearly, so is it even possible to retile in situ, or do I need to strip it down to the original concrete shell? And how do I hide all the pipe and electrical work?

There will be no "in situ" re-tiling those walls and floor without ripping out all the shower and other fixturing. Then remove all the old tile back to the base surfaces of the building structure.

As far as the surface mounted plumbing and electrical conduit it is really necessary to wait till you get everything stripped away to see what is behind to make a judgement call. In the worst case you may have to arrange to shim out one or two walls with wood studs leaving enough space behind a new wall surface to accommodate the plumbing and electrical.


What is this called? I'm looking for a water container that functions like the one on the bottom, as water flows out of the container, the "cap" goes down, no air gets in. I don't know what it's called or what keywords to use. English is not my native language.

I need it so I can increase the water flow rate of the container by placing a weight on the cap.

I'm aware of alternatives, I'm just interested in this particular setup, just a tank, with a weight placed on top to increase flow rate. Any help?

P.S., ignore all the other parts in the image, it's just an image I came by in a physics forum and it include the part I want.

A piston pump compared to a plunger pump, from Wikipedia. The parts you specified from your picture are piston pumps.

  A piston pump is a type of positive displacement pump where the high-pressure seal reciprocates with the piston.1 Piston pumps can be used to move liquids or compress gases.


Can one of the (two or more) required 20A circuits for kitchen receptacles also serve a Dishwasher? (California Code) Does the California Electrical Code allow one of the two required 20A circuits powering the wall / floor receptacles to also power a dishwasher?
Bonus question: If not, and the dishwasher requires its own circuit, may that circuit also power the gargabe disposal?
Please cite code sections if you can.  My hunch is that the answer is 'no', based on this:

210.52 B.1
In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit,
the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits
required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets
covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.

and

210.52 B.2
No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance branch
circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets.
Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and support of an electrical clock in any of
the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1).
Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for
supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges,
ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.

thanks
tom

No way.
You need at least two kitchen countertop receptacle circuits.  Those circuits can have nothing on them except:

Receptacles in kitchen working areas
Other general-use receptacles in the kitchen, dining area, and pantry.
A wall clock.
A gas oven/range with small needs for controls and oven light.

A dishwasher is definitely not on that list.


How can I correct my wiring to eliminate sequential GFCI outlets? UPDATED QUESTION
Thanks all, this is extremely helpful and interesting. I've since uninstalled the outlets and have written up a new diagram to see what you guys think.
(1) I'm removing the 2nd GFCI now that I know it's redundant and replacing with a regular outlet (marked GFCI protected)
(2) No longer daisy chaining. I will splice off A/C line. {Note, A/C is the only item on the load side}

OLD QUESTION
I just intercepted an outdoor circuit going to a mini-split 115v AC unit with 2x 125v GFCI outlets. It's a junction box with 2 other circuits in there.
Problem
Once wired, both outlets function (outlet tester confirms "correct wiring"), and the AC unit runs. Between 20-90 minutes later, the 2nd GFCI (closest to the load) pops.
Notes

5 ground wires are connected via a red wing. One was previously hanging out but this was fixed
Outlet box is covered and weather proof
Nothing is currently plugged into outlets (theoretically only thing running on circuit is AC unit)
Both outlets pop on occasion but usually the one on the load side
The breaker popped once

Photo of line attached.

Sloppy work
Daisy chaining two GFCIs like that is sloppy or ignorant. Such work tends to suggest more of the same.  Lots of people install GFCIs with the supply on LINE (because it won't work if they don't) and onward wires on LOAD. They have no idea what LOAD even does, they just don't see any other screws to put them on.  So they are putting the downline circuit under GFCI protection without realizing they are doing that.  This causes lots of interesting problems.
It's also possible the A/C unit is not the only load on the protected side of that GFCI.  There may be other loads, and they may be causing the problem.
Multiple circuits in a box bring a certain risk
...which can be a real nuisance for GFCI installations.
Normal wiring requires each neutral must be monogamous to its partner hot(s).  [there is an installation type where 2 hots legitimately share a neutral].  Crossing neutrals in a circuit creates a significant danger, but there's nothing to warn you of having done  that, since all neutrals go back to the neutral bar anyway.
However GFCIs will notice a crossed neutral and "enforce it".  They trip immediately when any load is placed on the crossed-neutral circuit, because current flows off a different hot but back through the GFCI's neutral, thus causing a current imbalance.  So again, it could be a load on that circuit cycling on, and may have nothing to do with the A/C unit.
Outdoors is harsh on GFCI devices
Which is why I don't like putting GFCI devices outdoors.  Since I understand how downline protection works, I just place the GFCI device indoors and extend it to plain outlets outdoors.
Whenever a GFCI device provides protection to another device or outlet downline, Code requires a sticker be affixed that says "GFCI Protected". No one installs them lol, which leads people to think GFCI receps are needed when they aren't.
It is possible that weather action and age have killed the tripping GFCI #2.   So, given that you know GFCI recep #2 is totally redundant to GFCI recep #1, I recommend replacing GFCI #2 with a plain receptacle rated for outdoors.  And put the sticker on it!  You can make your own label; I make white ones on a P-touch label maker.


Do I need to add supports before replacing a cripple wall stud? I have a section of mud sill near a crawl space entry door that has suffered severe dry rot due to rain intrusion.  I need to cut out and replace about 3 feet of mud sill.  This will require removal of two closely spaced studs (5" apart and about 22" tall), resulting in a horizontal span of about 47" between the remaining studs (one stud bay is wider than normal due to the crawl space entry).

The wall above this cripple wall is single-story but peaked and covered in stucco (considered heavy construction by the seismic retrofit plan sets).

Can I get away with removing these two studs, temporarily, while replacing the mud sill, without adding jacks or other temporary supports?  If not, what type and capacity of jacks would I need?

In the following photo, the two cripple studs to be temporarily removed are marked by green arrows.  The portion of mudsill to be replaced is marked by blue arrows.  The red arrows show the 47" temporary span that would occur once I remove the middle studs.  After the rotten mudsill portion is replaced I would reinstall the two studs.

It probably would not sag enough to do any damage, but "probably" isn't good enough.

Without a picture it's hard to figure exactly what you have from your description - I can't picture a cripple wall without a top plate.  This is a typical cripple wall framing:

One way to build temporary support is to build a temporary stud wall a few inches in front of the wall you're working on, with the top plate supporting the joists.  You can wedge some shims between the top plate and the joists for a snug fit.  You can arrange the studs in the temporary wall so that it's easy to reach past the temporary wall to get to the sill and studs you need to work on.

Another way is to lag a 2x10 across the face of the studs, spanning two studs that won't be disturbed on either side.  If you have 40" between the studs that won't be disturbed, and 16" to the studs on either side, an 8' 2x10 would work.  This lets you cut the bottoms off the studs over the rotten sill, repair the sill, install a temporary stud between the studs you cut, remove the 2x10, remove the rest of the studs you cut, and finally replace the studs you removed.

A reciprocating saw will work, but an oscillating tool with a blade that can cut nails is very handy for cutting out the sill and studs.


Installing a Bidet and now the coupling (connector) leaks. I may have damaged the connecting plastic pipe I bought a bidet online. Don't really do handy work, but it looked simple enough. Get everything set up, but the final step, connecting the cold water t adapter, was a bit tough. I was struggling and it kept coming off. Finally got it on and I think I stripped part of the pipe somehow. When I turned the water back on, it was leaking from the underside of the coupler (the "nut" on top of the T adapter).
It does look a bit lopsided, but that's the only way it screws on. That's also the farthest it will go.

I figured there might be a problem with the T adapter, so I removed it and tried screwing on the original connector. Same leak. I think I damaged the plastic pipe by doing this.

What do I do?

It looks like you have "cross threaded" the plastic pipe. (The term comes from the new set of threads you have accidentally cut into the pipe, which cross the original threads at several points.)

The only repair that will work here is to force the metal nut straight onto the end of the pipe, forcing it to re-cut the original, correct threads. This will take some patience, some fussing, and some force, because the nut will want to follow the new threads, and you must keep it straight.

If this was my problem, I'd remove both the fill valve and the T adapter, and use a sharp knife to adjust the threads in the plastic fill valve. Then I would clamp the adapter metal nut in my vise and assemble the two pieces while working in a more comfortable position than under a toilet. Once the nut is screwed straight onto the plastic, it will be much easier to assemble correctly next time.

Then take it apart and carefully re-install everything.

If you can get the fitting assembled straight it should not leak as the seal is provided by the ends of the T adapter and the plastic pipe -- the threads serve only to lock everything together and do not hold back any water.

The plastic threaded part that you've damaged is an integral part of the fill valve assembly. If you can't patch the leak in place, you will have to replace the entire fill valve.


Fix broken screw hole on outlet box I have a 1998 manufactured home. In 2 spots, there are outlets that are loose and it’s because the screw hole that secures the outlet is cracked. The tiniest pressure let’s go of the screw. Unfortunately, I’m not sure how well it’s captured in the attached picture.

Can this be fixed? Or how do I go about removing the old box and putting in a new old work box?

You can try putting a toothpick in the hole and see if the screw grabs better. You can also try a bigger screw.
To replace the box, remove the outlet and untwist the ground wires. Straighten out the wires and bent out the tabs holding the cables in the box being careful not to damage the insulation. Turn the two screws on the box counterclockwise while pushing the screws inward. This will turn the tabs that secure the box to the wall allowing you to pull the box out. Work the cables out of the box. Get your new box, insert the cables in the box, place it in the wall and turn the screws clockwise to raise the tabs securing the box to the wall. Twist the grounds together and connect the outlet using the terminal screws, not the backstabs, and attach your ground wire.


Why does rust colored water come out of shower head? One of my bathrooms has a shower that doesn't get used that often.  When I do use it I notice rust colored water come out first.

Why does that happen?  Is it indicative of something that needs to be fixed?

When water doesn't flow from a faucet and remains "standing", rust will collect if the pipe is galvanized (steel). Most new plumbing is copper, but may have galvanized pipe or fittings, too. Rust is composed of iron oxide flakes. Ingesting it in small amounts can give you the daily recommended (for males) dosage of iron. There are also filters that can be installed just before the showerhead.


240VAC outlet double or single relay? I have a 240VAC garage outlet that will be turned on via a control relay.  Is it best practice to switch/relay both lines, or just one like 120V~ loads?

I'm assuming your wanting to power some 240V appliance with this circuit.  In that case, if you switch off only one of the two HOT wires, you will likely cause a problem with the appliance, depending on what it is.

Yes, you would definitely want to use a double-pole 240V rated relay for this application.


How do I remove this shower fixture? I'm a little desperate here.  When we moved into this home, we inherited this shower fixture.  Now it's leaking.  But, I can't figure out how to remove it!?

I've tried to back it all the way off and looked for a set screw on the bottom.  I can't find any manuals online for this part.  Any ideas?

It looks like the screw in the center is missing (the hole in the center of the piece that says "off").  I would try pulling on that center part to remove it (the screw that was there probably was to hold it in place but now that it is gone it should come off... easier said than done).  You will probably need to pull fairly hard or even use a screw driver to slowly pry it off (especially if it has been on for a long time it might take some work to get it off).  Then once that center piece comes off you should see the other screws that are holding the rest of the unit on.


Fire drywall in bathroom We are insulating the external wall of a bathroom, and I know we should put green drywall.  A neighbour gave us a couple of red drywall, saying it would do the job as well.  Is it true?

Do you mean purple rather than red drywall?  I see that you are from Spain, so I don't know if this answer will apply in your country - but here in the USA, the difference is that green drywall is moisture-resistant, but it is not waterproof.  Purple drywall has superior moisture- and mold-resistant characteristics that make it much more suitable for use where it might be in contact with water.


Can you space trusses more than 24" on center if you use 4x4s or 6x6s for the lumber instead of 2x6s? I'm designing a cabin that will have exposed trusses over the living room / kitchen area. I have a company that will design the trusses for me, but I am expected to provide some amount of indication as to how I want it to all come together.
I don't want standard 2x6 trusses partly because they don't have the final finished look I want, and partially because I don't want to have so many if it's not necessary, again mostly for visual purposes.
The span is 14' from wall to wall, and 31' total length of the room. I live at 8900' where the snow load is 120psf. There are no valleys in the roof at all, it's as simple as can be up there, short of a wood stove chimney pipe coming up through.
I understand that truss strength is more about the depth of the wood (i.e., the 6" vertical of the truss members vs. the 2" horizontal) than the width, but is it reasonable to think that trusses made from 4x4s, 4x6s or 6x6s could be spaced further apart than 24" oc?
This is surprisingly difficult to find on the web, or I'm just not searching for the right thing, so any info or links to more details would be highly appreciated.

Timber frame trusses (and steel frame trusses, for that matter) are frequently spaced wider.
Truss strength comes from the truss design, and the depth of the truss, not so much the depth of the lumber from which the truss is made. My 24 foot span trusses are completely 2x4 material.
Wider spacing means whatever you put between the trusses has to span the wider spacing between trusses while holding the 120 PSF snow load. ONE approach to that is purlins between the trusses and the lower roof sheathing, so the purlins span the trusses and the sheathing only has to span the purlins.
In that environment if you are vaulting the ceiling I hope you've got a plan for venting the vaulted roof...


Risk of fire due to wiring a new light fixture I'm in my first house and have zero experience with installing light fixtures. I finally decided to install the new hanging fixture my wife bought online. With no experience and crappy instructions I was able to get it hooked up and attached to the ceiling after fighting with it for a while. Now I'm concerned that I may have done it improperly.

After taking off the old fixture I found some exposed copper wiring at the top of the wire box. Nothing from the old fixture was connected to it, it's just two ends coming in on either side and they're twisted together. Thought it was weird but I moved on. I hooked up the house wiring to the light with wire nuts and then connected the copper wire with the hoop on it from the base of the light to the green ground screw. Then I pretty indiscriminately shoved the extra wiring from the light into the wire box because it didn't seem like I had much choice.

Everything turns on but now I'm worried that maybe the extra wiring I shoved in there could cause a fire. It's shielded with a white woven sleeve but I'm not sure if that's adequate. I'm also worried that maybe the extra slack on the copper ground wire could come in contact with something and cause an issue. Would a messy job like this worry any of you? Should I just take the light off and have an electrician put it back on?

UPDATE: I took the fixture back off because I was nervous about it. Here are some photos of the box. I assume the exposed copper wire at the top is for grounding and I was incorrect to just attach the wire from the light to the ground screw since the box is apparently not metal.

Photos

Just a preliminary note for all diy-ers, the first thing I teach beginning electricians is the basic skill of properly splicing (wire-nutting) wires. A loose connection may seem to work for a while but it creates a lot of heat and may start a fire without ever tripping a breaker or blowing a fuse. The most important thing you should remember when you're doing your own wiring is to test all your splices. Grab each wire independently and tug on it to see if it will slip out of the wire nut newly twisted onto it. And before splicing make sure there will be plenty of copper to copper connection underneath those wire nuts between all the wires to be spliced. Do not allow any of them to back out while you are twisting.

From your description of everything (I am answering this before any pictures have been shared), it sounds like your installation is probably safe. I say that with some reservations, of course. One thing I couldn't tell from your description is where the green ground screw is located and what you tied to it. Another question I would have for you, are the exposed copper wires at the top of the box coming from the house-wiring cables where the rest of the wires enter the box, or are they completely separate from them? If they are part of the cable assembly, they are your equipment grounding conductors and you should tie your bare wire from the fixture in with it. Even if they are separate from the other wiring, they are probably your equipment grounding system and could be tied in with the bare copper from the light fixture, but this is only a precaution to prevent shock hazards and fire if something else went wrong first.

As for stuffing all the extra wire back into the box, don't be afraid to cut some of the extra stuff you don't need off. But I would say if you got it to all go back in there and you are certain you've made tight connections it is probably good. Things are working, you don't smell smoke or see it, that's good. Hopefully that helps alleviates any fears you may still have.


What type of wrench do I need to disconnect washing machine What should I be looking for to disconnect an old Miele washing machine. Connection in a photo below. Water comes in from right.

Thanks.

A large pair of  pliers should work. They have a variety of local names including  Tongue-and-groove pliers—also known as water pump pliers, adjustable pliers, groove-joint pliers, arc-joint pliers, Multi-Grips, tap or pipe spanners, gland pliers and Channellocks ( Channellock are a brand of tools)


What's the effect of introducing bends into a primary-secondary heating loop? I've been learning about primary-secondary boiler systems for my home, and have landed on a two-boiler system (two apartments), very much like Siegenthaler describes in his illuminating book and here in Radiant and Hydronics.

In order to save space I want to introduce a couple of bends into the primary loop, what's the effect?  The rails are intact but they don't feed directly into the separator as before.  Go/no-go?

In actuality these two boilers are installed along a basement wall with two manifolds extending several feet to the right of the hydraulic separator.  Why not use some of the Z-space?

That is actually a very good system you are proposing. My only reservation is that the cost will be excessive for only 2 apartments or zones. This is a new twist for me on a primary/secondary piping system. I have installed them before but this device makes it so much easier.The amount of elbows and other fittings should not be a problem as long as the total piping friction loss is included in the selection for sizing the primary pump. The use of 2 smaller boilers instead of 1 large boiler will lend itself to better efficiency by allowing for a lead/lag boiler operation and will be much more dependable than 1 boiler for each apartment.


What is the correct way to seal off a fireplace chimney? I've seen people say cap it at the top, I've seen people say stuff insulation in the bottom, I've seen people say brick it off at the bottom and seal it at the top. I've also seen all of these strategies criticized, usually because of causing moisture problems.
I've also seen that it depends on if you're in a warm climate or a cold climate... but what if you're in an area that has hot summers and cold winters?

Whatever area you live in I would suggest A minimum of capping the top, then blocking the bottom.
Capping the top prevents moisture like rain from causing problems below. Blocking at the bottom helps future residents from trying to use the fireplace.
I have seen perfectly good chimneys capped because the fireplace was so inefficient, then a new owner DIY a insert and caused thousands in smoke damage.
My current home had a 1930 fireplace with a gorgeous river rock chimney, it was not lined so at first I capped it then removed the chimney.
If I would have left it inplace for the Look I would have blocked it also at the bottom.  Just in case...


Cutting and repairing drywall ceiling above shower stall We just purchased a house and I want to run low-voltage cables (Cat6 + RG6) from the basement to the attic. I have a good route up a 10"x18" chase currently occupied by only a few water pipes, which leads to a second-floor utility closet from which I can run directly to the attic.

The problem is that getting up to the chase from the basement requires running the cables under the duct of a bathroom exhaust fan, and from the side of the wall where I currently have access, I don't think I'm going to be able to successfully pull the cables without inadvertently damaging them on a support bracket or ending up with too small a bend radius.

I can get access directly under the chase in order to pull the cables and ensure they clear the duct and have the proper bend radius, but such access from below will require cutting a hole in the ceiling at the back of a shower stall in a basement bathroom. Given the location, I have some concerns/questions:

1) Is this a really bad idea? Since I haven't cut it yet, I don't know yet what water/moisture-proofing measures are in place--my view from an inspection camera suggests there is nothing but drywall--but I don't want to create a world of pain for myself if making this hole is going to be hard to patch.

2) Since I would like the option to run additional cables in the future, I was thinking of putting an access panel in the ceiling rather than just patching the drywall. Are there products that would be appropriate for this environment, or is that asking for trouble as well and I would be better off cutting and patching drywall?

I hope I explained my situation clearly enough.

I've used a circular access panel made for boats (water tight) in a ceiling above a shower. Works very well, doesn't let moisture in. The link is a textured one for boat decks, but The smooth (non-textured) look best.

Basically run clear caulk around the rim and in the screw holes.
I framed some wood backing in there between the joists to mount the rim to. A few years on, all working well. I open it a few times a year as it's the access panel for a valve to an exterior faucet.


How many arms should a 5.8m long awning have? I am preparing to install two awnings with folding aluminum arms.
The length of each awning is 5.80 meters or 19 ft.
The house is at an elevation of 200 meters or 656ft (in the city outskirts) and has winds at about 5-6 Beauforts (30mph) maximum.

I have contacted four contractors to ask for prices.

Two of them suggested that two arms for each awning should be sufficient (after 6 meter or 20 ft they add a third one) and a third arm is not needed but it may cause problems.

The other two suggested that we should put three arms in order to have a solid construction.

I am trying to decide but I am not sure who is correct.

Please share any ideas or knowledge that you may have.

More is always better, I'd easily go with the guys putting a post every 10'. 2 poles would be okay if the bridge pole is a much larger diameter, which may be unsightly. That's still a pretty good wind to keep that sail down & everything better be bolted & not just screwed.


Cloudy white film spots on surface of stone sealer After sealing a stone tile surface outdoors, these white cloudy spots appeared within a day or two. They appear more frequently near the grout than the tile, but not exclusively. What caused this, and what can I do to clean it up, if anything?

From my experience, it is excess moisture. The one spot looks like water sat on the sealer before it cured. The remedy is add a bit more sealer to the area, try just enough to dampen the area first on a clean cloth. Make sure it is dry, and stays dry until it cures.


What should I do with an old thermostat? I recently had a security system installed which also included a replacement thermostat. Should I just throw this old one in the trash?

If your security system is monitored for a monthly fee I would save it. There is the possibility that it won't function if the service is terminated. If a year from now you decide you no longer want the service you may be in need of a new thermostat. Although it appears to be relatively new verify it doesn't contain mercury, even if it doesn't try to recycle it when you do throw it out.


Is there any reason to seal/waterproof underground spliced sprinkler cable? Since there isn't an electrical current going through sprinkler wire, it's just a single pulse that gets sent from the controller to the individual valve, is there any reason to waterproof crimp underground sprinkler cable after it's been cut in repair.

If the answer is No, Then why?

If the answer is Yes, Do you have any suggestions how best to seal and/or waterproof the spliced cable.

Thanks!

Yes, because a poor connection due to subsequent corrosion can affect the signal which may well cause unreliable operation.

There are waterproof junction boxes available which you should use.


How to remove copper pipe that is inside an exterior wall? This pipe twisted and severed when I was trying to unsrew an old outdoor faucet. It's about 1.5" (4 cm) deep in the exterior hole. I can grip the pipe with needle-nose pliers, but I can't move it.

How would I go about removing the pipe, ideally leaving the pipe fitting into which I would screw a new outdoor faucet?
The exterior siding is vinyl over insulation. On the interior side is a finished room with drywall. If it is necessary to cut into one of these sides, I'm curious which would be recommended (I think I'm leaning interior).
I am comfortable with basically every handyman task except plumbing; but in this case, because this pipe has a dedicated shut-off valve, I figure it's worth giving a shot. However, I also don't have many plumbing-specific tools. If soldering is necessary, I will call in a professional.
Update: I cut a hole in the interior wall to take a look, and the pipe is soldered. Other houses in the neighborhood, built in the same year, have threaded fittings, but alas. I taped over both holes and called a professional to take care of the rest.
I will come back and describe the plumber's solution for completeness.

Interior is the side to cut in your case, and you will need to get into the wall to remove/replace the piping and hose bib. Simplest terms: you limit exposure to the elements/pests/etc. the greater the extent to which you leave the shell intact.
Cut an inspection hole in the wall to get an idea of the area you'll need to work with; cut the pipe out; sweat on new piping; install hose bib; patch and repair interior finishes.


Peculiar external spigot replacement needed I have the following spigot and it appears that there is no way to access the piping that leads to it. I am used to the typical silkcock style but this one I've never seen before. Is it removable from the front?

PS: The reason why it needs to be changed is that it leaks through all the holes in the front which renders having a hose pretty much useless.

There appears to be a repair kit for this:
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Troubleshooting/25%20-%2027%20Troubleshooting.pdf

The model in question is 20 but the 25 kit is supported by it. It can be replaced from the front.


Need to level OSB board for LVP, pros and cons of using roofing shingles? I am looking into inexpensive options to level OSB for installing luxury vinyl planks.
I read an article that talks about using roofing shingles to level out subfloors before installing hardwood.
I am wondering if this could work for leveling the OSB under the carpeting I ripped up in a mobile home.
I looked into self levelling compounds, but I could only find one that works on OSB and it's expensive for the amount of leveling that it's possibly going to need.
If shingles could work, would they have to be screwed down as they could shift under floating vinyl planks?
Does anyone have any experience with this method?
What pros or cons could there be for using roof shingles?
ADDITIONAL INFO:
There is no moisture problem. I would say the problem areas are unlevel due to installation.
Adding pics. First two pics are a section 4 feet by 4 inches Looks like the board was put there to fill a gap for reasons unknown. It's not level and it's tilted toward the wall.

Marriage wall gap that runs through one half the trailer. it's about 2 inches deep.
The marriage wall in the other half. It's wavy and uneven. Don't know what to do about that either. I fear it may affect the LVP over time.
This section runs about 4" x 4". Thanks!

I think it would totally impossible to get good results using that method. LVT is pretty flexible. I've remodeled a rental house and personally (not a contractor) installed LVT.  It turned out pretty good, but I did need a leveling compound for part of the floor.   Our church also replaced a bunch of carpet in the hallways with LVT and the installer missed a bit of debris here and there and even tiny bits telegraph thru and you can see it.
The method you are asking about mentioned hardwoods which is a totally different ball game. With LVT, I'm sure you'd end up with a wavy, ugly mess on your hands using shingles.
Why is the OSB not "level"? Water damage? poor installation? You may not needs as much leveling compound as you think just to at least hit the worst parts.   Hard to know without pics and more info.


4-Wire smoke detectors with home runs Our house has 10 wired smoke detectors.  They are currently 2-wire sensors - but each is on a separate home run back to the panel...each has an EOL resistor at the detector.

The old panel (a DMP I think) had some kind of auxiliary box to take each of the separate circuits and either combine them as one zone, or have them as individual zone (I don't know, it never worked properly)

We now have a new Ademco vista panel...and obviously this poses a problem with this unusual configuration.

However - although they are 2-wired, the actual wiring is a 4-wire run (with the green/white just snipped at both ends.

What's the best approach to get them all working with the Vista panel? Switch to 4-wire with home runs, or try and convert to a daisy chained 2-wire?

I've never seen them wired this way...so a but stumped.

If your careful how you splice you can use the 4 conductor wire as you're guessing, send 2 wire out on red/black, bring it back to the panel on green/white... Send it out to the next detector on red/black... Etc etc, rinse and repeat for 10 detectors.  The end of line resistor would then go across the last green/white.  That essentially converts your 4 wire home runs to a 2 wire supervised loop.

The problem you will run into is you have about 40 more splices in the circuit than are anticipated.  Each splice adds resistance to the circuit, eventually most splices create higher resistance over time due to oxidation.  All the extra resistance could eventually give the vista panel a fire trouble condition (not a false alarm tho).

Hint: solder all those extra splices, or use a 3M silicone filled crimp style butt splice. A soldered splice never oxidizes over time.  Resistance at 12volts can add up quickly, sometimes you can kludge the end of line resistor to another value to compensate, but you lose the UL listing doing so.


Sump pump battery backup I currently have a sump pump in my basement. I recently lost power during a rain storm and had to pump water out by hand until power was restored so I am looking to install a battery backup for the sump pump. I already have a 110 amp hour marine deep cycle battery which powers a 60 foot pound electric trolling motor for at least 4 hours so I believe that a sump pump should be able to be powered by this deep cycle battery.

I was looking at the sump pump and saw that it should take 920 watts when it is operating and I calculated that by multiplying 8 amps at 115 volts which is what the cap on the top of the sump pump says. I was looking at power inverters and I was wondering would a 1000 watt power inverter be enough power? I heard that when sump pumps first turn on they use more power than their continuous operating level.

EDIT- I was planning on keeping the sump pump plugged in to an outlet unless we lose power. If we did lose power, I was planning on unplugging the sump pump from the outlet and plugging it into the inverter that was being powered by the marine deep cycle battery.

The best plan I saw suggested in another question was to get a second 12V based pump. Place (or adjust) it so its start sensor is higher than your AC-powered pump, and also connect the battery to a battery maintainer. You get several benefits:

If the power goes out, the second pump will kick in when the water reaches it (which should be within about an inch of when the first pump would've started)
If the first pump dies, the second pump will still operate independently
If the inflow exceeds the capacity of the first pump, the second pump will augment the pumping capacity when the water reaches it (so you'd have both pumps running together).


Is is safe to have rainwater recycling tank near the bedroom windows? Is it safe to sleep near a rainwater recycling tank? Is bacteria can developed and flow into the bedroom when sleeping with the window open?

Standing stagnant water can harbor legionnaire's disease, be a mosquito breeding ground, etc. And as @mike says, regional hazards vary, check with your local health authority, what works here in Oregon might not work for example, in Florida, etc.


Building a deck... Pier Size / Loading Question I am building a deck. I have most of things sized out properly I think.  I just want to confirm that 12" piers are enough for what I am doing.  This is a freestanding deck next to a pool.
Did I draw my areas for loading pretty close?  The largest one I have is about 21 sq ft, which means the 12" piers should be plenty.
Beams are doubled 2x8, joists are 2x8.   All posts will be > 1' from edge of pool, but I had to get pretty close due to the wonkiness in the lower left corner.  (Even still, that last joist has a cantilever of about 1'9", so I could push it back a hair more if needed

I'm not a expert but the answer likely depends on exactly where you live. When I built my deck in Maryland the footings needed to 30" deep and 18" in diameter (for the bottom 8").
See local ordinances for Howard County Maryland.
If you are lucky your jurisdiction may publish their requirements. If they don't publish them you could give your local permit office a call.
Jonathan


How accurate does a door rough-in need to be? Having never installed a pre-hung door before, I am wondering how accurate does the door rough-in need to be?  I am planning on installing a 28" bathroom door, which has a 30" rough in.  After framing it up, (and I can't figure out exactly how this happened as the bottom gap is 30" and the two Jack studs appear to be level) I noticed that the gap at the top is closer to 29 13/16" instead of 30".  Is this a problem?

The reason for a rough opening is so that it CAN be rough in dimensions. Your opening should be no problem. Rough openings are made larger to accommodate headers and floors than out of level, adjacent studs that may be out of plumb, framing lumber that has thickness variations, openings that are slightly out of square and maybe some other things I've not thought of.

BTW, the jack studs are vertical so the proper term to describe their closeness to vertical is "plumb" and not level. The term "level" is used to describe things that are properly horizontal.


Hang 250 kg (550 lbs) on concrete wall I want to hang a 250 kg (550 lbs) water heater on the exterior wall (this mass includes the water). The system to attach it is included (two metal bars, attached with 2 screws each).
The concrete wall (poured concrete) looks thick and sturdy, but it makes me a little uncomfortable anyway. Could hanging such a heavy object damage the wall, or make it more likely that cracks will appear in a few years?
If so I have the option to set the water heater on a pedestal first, before screwing it to the wall. But that would need the water heater is at the same level of the pipe outputs, which would make it hard to install. Opinions appreciated.
EDIT : Adding more context, as suggested in the comment

My question is really about whether I can hang 250 kg using 4 screws (and metal bars), or whether that's too much for the wall. My question is NOT about the fastener, or the mounting hardware (this is provided with the water heater, so I trust it is solid enough).
I do not intend to use the other side of the wall.
I don't have access to other elements. As far as I know, there is no joist at all. This is just concrete.
It is for a simple 200L electrical, tanked water heater. 1.20 m high, and 56 cm of width and breadth.

I'm not sure I understand your concern about putting it on a pedestal. Doesn't your plumbing need to match up with the inlet/outlet on the heater no matter how you mount the thing?
If you have fixed hard lines that you're trying to match up with, just build a pedestal to the proper height so its connections meet up with your existing lines, set the empty tank on it, use the included fasteners to also fasten it to the wall (overkill never hurts), then finish the plumbing connections.
If the lines need to run into the bottom of the tank (quite annoying, IMHO), build an open frame on which to set the heater without interfering with the location of the lines, then do as above.
If you've got flexible lines, then your pedestal height is mostly subject to how long a flexible line you've got/can get, and how high off the ground you want the tank. Again, follow installation from above.
Having something supporting the weight from below, whether wood, concrete block or steel seems to me to be the safest, surest way of doing it. Using the wall-mounting hardware provided by the manufacturer in addition simply adds to the security.


Can You run two 2, 20amp Ground fault circuits using 12/3 wire and duplex 20amp plugins I was wondering if you can have 2 20amp breakers at the box using 12/3 wire and use a single 20 amp GFi at the first box of the circuit and by breaking the duplex tabs on the duplex recepticals utilize separate circuits on down stream recipticals.

Nope, does not work because you would need a fourth wire past the GFCI to carry protected neutral along with protected hot.  You cannot share unprotected neutral and protected neutral on the same wire.  This problem defeats the purpose of a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit, which is the formal name of what you're trying to do).

It is a big part of the reason MWBCs are a time-lost wiring method.

Also, you can't use 2 breakers because you must provide a method to assure that they are on opposite poles (otherwise you overload the neutral) and you must have common maintenance shutoff (impossible to turn one off without the other).  That basically compels you to use a 2-pole breaker.

Also, there are no tabs to break off on a GFCI.

I want to do it anyway, and AFCIs are not required here

In that case you can use a 2-pole GFCI breaker, and wire the MWBC in the classic style.  Remember you must pigtail neutral wires to every device, so the device can be removed without interrupting neutral.

Alternately, you can wire it with a 2-pole breaker without a GFCI breaker, use GFCI receptacles, and not use the LOAD terminals at all.  This moots the issue with the neutral since it is now non-protected neutral in all locations.

I strongly recommend not using the LOAD terminals unless you are very sure of what you're doing, this causes more trouble than it's worth.  While it is slick when you can do it, the savings of avoiding a few GFCI receptacles is wasted when you have to spend $150 to call out an electrician to make it all work.

I need AFCI, though

AFCI protection must be at the breaker.  A 2-pole AFCI  is available, but no such thing as a 2-pole AFCI/GFCI breaker. So you would need to exit the panel and stop in a junction box, and fit a 2-pole GFCI-only device (deadfront) there.

One extreme option there is to come off the service panel to a hot tub subpanel, which has a GFCI master breaker.  Then fit as many AFCI breakers as you need for the various circuits that need GFCI.  Of course, one ground fault would trip them all, so don't put GFCI on the fridge but that is good advice regardless.

I am willing to use /4 cable downstream of the first GFCI

Actually, you need /2/2 cable.  In that case the wiring is fairly straightforward: white is black's partner neutral.  Red and white-red are GFCI-protected.

At the first box, you pigtail neutral to the GFCI Line neutral.  Supply Red goes to GFCI Line hot.   In the /4 cable, red and white-red go to GFCI LOAD.  Down the line, the two neutrals can't touch each other.

In the second box, supply black and white go to the GFCI Line inputs, no pigtailing needed here.  Then downline black and white go to GFCI Load outputs.   At this point black/white are one Protected pair, and red/whitered are the other.

At the third and subsequent outlets, you can split the outlets but must break off BOTH tabs and either pigtail all 4 wires, or use the $3 Leviton Pro outlets that provide screw-and-clamp for 2 wires per screw.  Do not put one on the screw and one in the backstab, because backstabs are not reliable.

Also use deep/large boxes, because you'll have 8 wires + 1 yoke + clamps + ground for 12 units of fill, so 27 cubic inches of box space.


How do I cheaply paint walls that duct tape stripped and ruined? I recently made the mistake of using duct tape to attach pictures and posters on my dorm room walls.

When I took the pictures down today, the tape took some of the paint off the walls along with it. From the looks of it, there are two layers of paint and at some places the tape took both layers off with it. I've attached two pictures to highlight the situation (picture 1 and picture 2)

I'm wondering what I can do to fix this myself, and avoid paying for a paint job out of my security deposit. Any advice is appreciated, though if there is a particular product you recommend, I would love to have a link to it on Amazon so that I can order it online.

From looking at the pics, I don't think the walls are specially textured. Looks like typical "orange peel" finish from rolling on the paint.  I think all you really need to do is fill the voids where the two layers of paint have been removed with some "Light Weight Spackle". Light weight spackle is very cheap and can fill small blemishes quickly and easily. Apply with a small putty knife, let it dry for 20 minutes then sand it or smooth it with a damp sponge. Get a sample of the color from the tape, or peel a small piece from the wall and get a pint mixed at any paint dept. Have the paint sales person determine what finish the paint is, I suspect egg shell or satin.  You can use a mini roller or a soft brush to apply some over your patched areas, overlapping the undamaged color a bit. It may take a few light coats.  Try to "feather" the edges into the existing color by using very light pressure on your roller or brush as you overlap the original color.   Good Luck.


What do i need to stop my computer from rebooting in electricity fluctuations AC 240V location.

My computer at home keeps restarting at the time of fluctuations and i loose all my work, this happens minimum once every day and some days more than 2 times.

I have 1100va Microtek Inverter (Microtek ups sebz 1100va) with UPS mode for computers for quicker switching.

still it started to reboot my computer. at the time of fluctuations and low voltage.

MAINS POWER => INVERTER => COMPUTER

Then i have been told i need a stabilizer so recently i bought Microteck EMT2090 Stabilizer (Microtek EMT 2090 Voltage Stabilizer for LED Television (2 Amps) (90V ~ 300V)) and connected it before the Inverter.

MAINS POWER => STABILIZER => INVERTER => COMPUTER

But still my computer keeps restarting.

Now i have been told i need double or triple booster Stabilizer.

What i need to do , so that my computer wont restart at the time of low voltage and fluctuations.

More details :
My PC runs 24x7

There are low voltage and electrical fluctuations are common in my area.
My inverter and external battery(exide tubular battery 180ah) is 1 year old, my stabilizer is new.

My computer has corsair VS450 SMPS and i have calculated computer power usage from https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator and its not more than 300 watts. so its not like , my computer is drawing more power than the inverter can provide.

i have checked earthing in home and its Good.

i was thinking that my inverter was faulty so i sent it for repair at customer care and they told me, its fine. so issue with my home power supply only.

If i switch power supply of inverter off then inverter comes online and PC doesnt reboot. i have tried doing it many times. switching power supply of inverter off then on continuously , and computer does not restarts.

But once in while at the fluctuations computer reboots.

Why exactly is this happening ?

what i need to make it stop rebooting the computer ?

I can think of 2 ways.

1) buy Triple BOOSTER Stabilizer (Microtek EM4090 Digital Display For AC upto 1.5Ton Voltage Stabilizer (90V-300V)  )

MAINS POWER => TRIPLE BOOSTER STABILIZER => INVERTER => COMPUTER

2) buy small UPS which gives power backup for 15 minutes and install it like this.

MAINS POWER => STABILIZER => INVERTER => NEW SMALL UPS => COMPUTER

update 1 :

i as suggested to measure the fluctuations , i dont have Battery powered oscilloscope with me.

update 2 :

The UPS operates from Standard Voltage range from 100 V~ 300 V and Narrow Voltage range from 180 V ~ 260 V for running computers and sensitive appliances.

idk how i missed it, but the UPS/Inverter has narrow mode which works in

180 V ~ 260 V

so if input voltage to UPS/Inverter goes below that range then it does not works in narrow mode i guees so , so what i need is power supply cutter when the voltage drops below 180 V or goes above 260 V so it will get my UPS online.

so i have ordered Microtek EM 4170+ Voltage Stabilizer (Microtek EM 4170+ Voltage Stabilizer for A.C. upto 1.5 Ton (170V ~ 270V))

i don't want my stabilizer to double or triple boost voltage, and reach the 180 V ~ 260 V  range. so that inverter can work in narrow mode , i just want it to cut power altogether and let the UPS take over, UPS is more than enough to give power backup for 8+ hours.

will update when i receive the new stabilizer and do some tests.

Not wishing to state the obvious, but really, the first thing to do is resolve the power fluctuations if at all possible.

Assuming that's out of your control, then a decent UPS should be able to handle this by itself. You shouldn't need external inverters or stabilisers.

To be honest, at first glance, it sounds like your initial UPS may be faulty or simply not up to the job. Can you be more specific about the nature of the fluctuations and how long they last?


Splicing new wire into existing home wiring I want to replace the receptacles in my home and when I removed some old receptacles I noticed that many of the wires are very short making replacing the receptacles quite difficult as most of the wires don't reach out of their respective receptacle box. Is there anything wrong, code or otherwise, with connecting new 12 gauge wire (color coded to match existing wire color) to the receptacles and splicing that in to the home wiring with push in connectors? Thank you.

There's no problem with your plan.  However, if you have aluminum wiring, you're going to have to use connectors listed for AL.


Wiring a light socket that doesn't have screws I'm having some trouble wiring a ceramic light socket. I've done this before for with the kind that you just screw the wires into (the ones that look like this), but this one is different. Here's a picture

And another one with some of the text on the socket (one side is labeled white as well but I didn't bother editing this into the picture)

I've found numerous videos and descriptions of how to do the kind with screws, but none of this type

How do I wire this?

If there is only 1 set of wiring coming to this fixture use the back stabs (I hate back stabs). If there are more than 1 set pigtail and then use back stabs. This is one of the few places I have used backstab fixtures. I would never use the back stabs to jumper the sets, if the pigtail is used the only power being used is by the fixture itself. I have not had any problems with pigtails and back stabs but using the fixture as the jumper I have seen hundreds of failures. There should be a strip guide on the fixture strip the wire to that length. Push the wire into the round hole . this can normally only be used with 14 awg wire. If no strip gauge strip between 1/2 to 3/4 inch if copper is showing a piece of scrap wire or a small screwdriver can be used in the slot to remove the wire and trim it off and verify that no copper is showing and you should be good to go.


Popping sound from sound system I had built a new metal pole barn. I've had 200 amp service installed and an electrician connected the circuit box and earth ground. I'm doing the inside wiring myself. This is a party barn with a stage and large sound system. I also installed a wood burning stove with an electrical blower motor installed. The problem: When I am using the sound system and turn the blower on the stove off, I get a loud snap/pop noise thru the speaker system. I installed 20 amp breakers and 20 amp outlets and connected at the outlet the ground to ground, neutral to neutral and hot to hot. Also both are on separate circuits. What can I do to fix this? Thanks.

Motors do create a fair amount of electrical noise especially if the blower has a variable speed controller, an RFI filter may help as isherwood suggest or possibly an isolation transformer , in my riding arena we pipe music and I had to use step up transformers at the amp and step down at the speakers to get rid of. Ham radio and 60hz buzz on the feeds that were close to 180' but the poping is probably just motor noise. You could also move the feed for one of the outlets to the opposite leg so they are separated this may be the easy fix.


How do I test circuit breakers? Suppose I need new circuit breakers and buy some at a local shop. How do I test them to be sure they haven't been damaged on their way from factory and will do their job when time comes?

There's no good way to do this. You could (in theory) get a spare electrical box, wire it into your main box such that it had access to more current than the breaker under test, and then install the breaker into that spare box, cause a short and watch it trip.

Alternately, you could install the breaker, overload the circuit in question (borrow all the neighbor's vacuum cleaners?) and watch it trip (and hope nothing goes wrong, causing a fire and burning down your house).

The first is annoying, the second is dangerous (because you have no idea if some previous owner used sub-standard wiring somewhere in your house). There is no good option for the homeowner to test these things.

While I don't think we can make too many general statements, we CAN say that the products distributed in the US are subject to various electrical codes and that the manufacturers design so that if they fail, they fail open. Realistically, you've probably got a lot more to worry about from your appliances, than your breakers.

Just buy your breakers from a reputable retailer, check for damage before installation, and you'll almost certainly be fine.


how do I wire a duplex outlet that will always be hot from a switch outlet combo? I have a combo switch outlet that has one hot outlet and the switch controls a floodlight over my pool.

I want to add a duplex outlet further down my patio to be able to plug in my aerator pump and ceiling heat lamp. This outlet needs to be hot and not affected by the switch.

A diagram would really be helpful also. Thank you, Harr.

You simply need to tap off the wiring for the existing outlet using pigtails (short pieces of wire of the same weight and color).

Run a new 14/2 cable from the combo box to the new outlet location. Remove the hot lead (probably black) from the side of the existing outlet. Connect that lead to the black of the new cable and to the black pigtail using a wire nut or a push-in connector. Attach the other end of the black pigtail back on the hot terminal of the combo outlet.

If the hot wire to the combo outlet is already connected through a wire nut, you just have to add the new black to that bundle and reattach the wire nut (or a bigger one if necessary), no new pigtail needed.

Do the same for the neutral (white) wires. White to white.

Connect all ground wires (bare or green).


Any tips for using an open hearth fireplace? I will be taking a trip this winter and staying in a rustic basically 1 room log cabin where the main source of heat is a fireplace. Just a stone hearth and chimney. I believe it doesn't even have a damper. My only experience has been with wood stoves.

I've seen it said numerous times that fireplace don't heat the interior they suck the warm air out. Obviously they must do something since for hundreds or thousands of years this was the main source of heat for many.

Considering I can't make any modifications to the structure, what can I do to increase comfort and conserve fuel? Is there any hope of walking up to a somewhat comfortable temperature without having to feed the fire in the middle of the night?

It is correct that the fireplace draws all its input air from the room (tho' some modern fireplaces are designed with separate input feeds thru the brickwork, which means only that they burn just fine with a sealed glass door in front).  If you can find one, get a log support which includes a row of "C" - shaped tubes which take in air, heat the air due to proximity to the flames&logs, and exhaust that air back into the room rather than up the chimney.
Here is one example. Sadly,  not cheap enough (probably) to be worth buying just for your short stay.   grate heater


3-way switches and independent lights I have two lights that are connected oddly and right now only one of them can be on at a time.  I would like to be able to have either, both, or neither on by using the 3 switch positions I already have.  How do I connect the switches to make this work? Does one of them need to be replaced with a 4 way switch?

Below is the current setup.  I haven't pulled down light A to verify the connections inside the dashed box and would prefer not to if I can help it.

If I disconnect light B and switch 1 (like below) then light A functions as a normal 3-way light with 2 switches.

OK first, nobody has a chance to figure out that Egyptian Spaghetti (black red white bronze = Egyptian flag).  So let's hit up the electrical supply house for some tape, and re-mark the colors so we can see what's going on.

Normally I use the same color for both messengers, but in your case, it matters.

Normally, a 3-way works by a 3-way connecting always-hot to one of two messengers (the other is dead).  Then the other 3-way connects one of two messengers to switched-hot.  If the switches agree, switched-hot is energized, and the lamp gets switched-hot and neutral, and lights when switched.

Now, you just horked on another lamp and 3-way, as if this was Insteon or something.  Look what you did.

The original 3-way circuit still works normally.  Bulb B gets always-hot and a messenger.  No neutral in sight - that's a big problem.  If switch 1 agrees with 2, you have 120V on both sides of bulb B, and no light.

If switch 1 is the minority report, then it's talking to a dead wire, and no light.

But what happens if switch 2 is the minority report?  Follow the loop:

Always Hot - Bulb B - switch 1 - dead messenger - switch 3 - bulb A - neutral

You have put bulbs B and A in series.   Now if bulb B is an efficient LED/CFL, and bulb A is an incandescent, A will barely light.

How do you fix this?  Easy.  Get switched-hot and neutral to  bulb B.  Notice that neither one is anywhere near bulb B.  The wires in box 2 are all the wrong wires.  Literally every wire except the two you need.    So you need to run a cable from bulb A, because that's where switched-hot and neutral coexist.

If you want all 3 to work as multiple control points, then you need to fit a "4-way" switch for switch 2.  A four-way takes two messengers on the left, and two on the right, and either passes them straight through, or swaps them.  You would feed always-hot at switch 1 instead of 2.

Or junk all this, and go Insteon or other smart switches.


Can I add an elbow to my kitchen gas line to improve clearance with the range? The gas stub out behind my gas range currently protrudes from the wall by about an inch too much for the range to sit tight to the wall.
I'm thinking of using a 90 degree elbow like this one after the valve so that the pipe faces towards the direction of the flex pipe.
Is that considered safe and are there any codes prohibiting it? I'm hoping to avoid redoing the pipe if possible.

Yes, you can add fittings like a 90° elbow, with these caveats:

Be sure it's legal for homeowners to do gas work in your jurisdiction.
Be sure the part is rated for gas.
Be sure you know how to properly seal threaded gas connections with thread compound or (gas rated) thread tape and good technique.
Be sure you test with soapy water when you're done.


What to do about these fence post bases I have no idea how to resolve this, the posts are all wobbly and move at the bases, one area in middle starting to cause a lean. I installed this fence, 6' H, roughly 7' post spacing, only 3 months ago...but it was wet, now that we've had no rain for 2 months, as you can see the dirt is pulling down from kick board and away from the posts...the ground just shrunk. All these posts are a minimum 28" deep, most are 30"-32" deep. If I add concrete/product right now...it seems when it rains it might heave it out.

Quikcrete makes fence post mix that does not require mixing, but after you pour the dry into the hole, you then soak it in with water.
http://www.quikrete.com/AtHome/Video-Setting-Posts.asp

You might want to enlarge a holes a bit.


changing toilet seat on wall mounted toilet I can access the screws underneath the toilet but they are placed horizontally like as if they are screws holding the toilet bowl to the wall instead of downward facing screws holding a toilet seat to the bowl. Does this look right to anyone? How best to proceed?
Any advice/reassurance welcome
Dash

Look at this video starting at about 11 min 30 s. Grohe wall mounted toilet

EDIT I see a screw exposed under the swing away cover in the picture posted. I would assume that unscrewing it would release the fitting holding the seat.

It might be wise to consult the landlord even before a seemingly simple change of a toilet seat. Maybe his staff  know how to do this and would do it for you.

EDIT2 Have you looked or felt under the bowl to see if seat bolts are visible? See What kind of tool do I need to access this bolt?


Should I be concerned about a ceiling light fixture that was installed without the mounting bracket? The last piece of my move was to install my new light fixtures from my last place and I finally hired a general contractor to do so. After he left, I realized that I had not given him the mounting brackets that I had stored and labelled in separate sandwich bags... which explain why he was having a hard time lining up screws and finding screws the right length... I feel like a dummy.
Everything seems to be tightly and securely installed to the ceiling, just without the original screws and mounting bracket. Should I be concerned that over time the screws will fall and the ceiling light will smash to its death and start a massive fire or am I overthinking it? D'uh.
I'd love to avoid spending more $ for my dumb mistake, but should I have him come back and re-do them with the proper mounting supplies?

Mounting brackets for all light fixtures I’ve ever dealt with are fairly simple. There are some variations but they accomplish the same purpose: they are secured to the box and then have either a couple of screws (common for wall-mounted fixtures like sconces) or a lamp nipple (common for ceiling-mounted fixtures) that secure the actual fixture or fixture chain to the box. Some use both screws and a nipple. It’s a fairly standard affair once you have the right screws, even if they’re not the originals. The contractor would have used his own brackets and screws.
In short, I wouldn’t be concerned unless you have reason to believe the contractor is unqualified.


After replacing incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs, why am I getting flickering from some of them, but not all, on dimmer switches I've replaced a bunch of light bulbs with LED bulbs (specifically, these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart-75-Watt-Equivalent-BR20-Dimmable-Energy-Star-LED-Light-Bulb-Bright-White-3-Pack-1003020602/303701036) and am now experiencing occasional flickering on some of the dimmer switches. All the wiring in the house was re-done in 2013 during a gut renovation, and I am using the same model dimmable ecosmart LED bulb throughout. Also this is in the US. I've made sure the bulbs are screwed into the socket quite firmly, so I don't think that is the issue.

TL;DR Your Dimmers are Not Compatible with the Bulbs
Older dimmers don't work with most LED lights. Period. Many newer dimmers work together with newer "Dimmer Compatible" bulbs (as yours are listed). There are even some dimmers available today that are not LED-compatible, and 2013 or older dimmers are very likely to be not LED-compatible.
That being said, there are times when some combinations of LED-compatible Dimmer and Dimmer-compatible LED aren't quite compatible enough. But my hunch is that a new, good quality, LED-compatible dimmer will solve the problem.
Feel free to post the model # of one of the existing dimmers, as that may confirm the problem.


Furnace Troubleshooting- Inconsistent Error Codes My American Standard furnace ("Standard" Model, year 2003, 12 or 13 SEER) gave an Error Code 2 when first turned on- "External lockout, retries or recycles exceeded."  (4 fail to ignite cycles observed.) I turned off the switch for maybe 30 seconds and turned it back on.  It ignited in the second cycle, heated the house, and shut off.  When it came back on later, it was not blowing hot air.  No flame, Error Code 3- "Pressure Switch Error."  This has happened several times.

The pressure switch reads open at rest.  If I use a straw to suck on the tube, there is a reading of about 3.9, trending down to about 3.2 before I have to stop to exhale.  I think this rules out a bad switch.  The inducer motor runs, and the fins on its fan appear to be clean.  There don't seem to be any obstructions in the air flow, but I can't take the vent sections apart, as they are snapped firmly together.  I went up on the roof, and the vent was clear.  If I turn on the furnace and let it run without igniting, should I be able to feel a definite air flow when I go back up on the roof, or a suction on the tube from the inducer motor? And is it a bad idea to jump the 2 pressure switch wires to mimic a closed circuit?  I want to rule out everything else before I try to replace the circuit board.

Yes it sounds like the pressure switch may be working correctly. If you'll be in constant attendance and feel confident about your ability to detect any problems, you could use a jumper in place of the pressure switch. You'll likely find that the controller verifies that the switch is open when the inducer is off and closes when the inducer is on -- so the jumper will have to be placed and removed at the right times.

The fact that the furnace sometimes ignites but other times not, and that sometimes the air blower remains on, suggests to me a problem with the flame proving function. Maybe have a look at After blowing heat the fan won't stop, continue blowing cold air for prolonged period of time (30+ min). Power cycle the furnace and observe its operation through several run attempts as described there.


Electrical: Can a neutral wire just be capped? In redoing my main level I have misplaced my electrical diagram showing what was there before I started (so annoying!). Now I am unsure if my new solution is safe or not. I have seen diagrams which confirm, but would greatly appreciate an expert helping me out. So here's what was there before (see my horrible diagram attached):
- power to the fixture
- three wire to a switch (not a two way or three way switch)
- power continues to an outlet
I want to remove the outlet part. But this makes the three wire neutral "stranded". I have tested the wire and there is nothing there (perhaps that is obvious to most!). The second picture attached shows the current setup. So the question is: Is this safe?

Yes. If you're getting rid of the receptacle, you should cap off the grounded (neutral) conductor in the switch box.

Just make sure there's no exposed wire sticking out of the connector, and you use a twist-on wire connector rated for a single wire.


Why is my Nest thermostat not working with A/C? I installed  Nest thermostat a few weeks ago, replacing an old Lux programmable thermostat (there was nothing wrong with it).  I connected 4 wires (R,W,Y and G) to the Nest.  But as soon as I'd connect the Y wire, the Nest would give me an E4 error saying there was no power on R.  I could only use the thermostat with the Y disconnected (so only heat, no AC).

When I tested the voltages between R and W, I get a healthy 26 volts at the thermostat and at the control board.  But on R and Y, I get 0 volts.   The AC works fine with my old Lux thermostat (I verified by re-installing it), however, I also connected the B (blue) and O (beige) wires in the Lux thermostat.  From what Nest tech support tells me, I don't need to use B since the Nest can grab power off of the R.

When I connect the Beige wire (connected to O on the control board) to the Y on the Nest, the fan goes on, but no AC.

My workaround for now is to turn on the AC from the Hunter thermostat upstairs (Zone 2) at the same time, so that both dampers are open and the cool air is distributed in both zones. Kind of a hack, at least it keeps the house cool!

So my question is: why is the R to Y voltage zero?  And if that indicates some kind of problem in the relay or control board or transformer or condenser, why does the old thermostat work fine?

I put together the following diagram to describe the configuration:

And here is a picture of the circuit diagram from the control board:

A picture of the control board:

The Nest with the beige wire  in Y1:

Which it happily accepts, and thinks that the AC is connected:

Update: I disconnected all the wires on the thermostat side of the control board and tested with my multimeter again.  Same result: R1 to W gives me 28 volts, and R1 to Y is 0 volts.

I just found a  technical bulletin for the EWC-ST-2E Control Panel  (seems similar to the EWC-ST-2D that I have).  Will try to do some more troubleshooting after reading this.

This has been idle a while, but my guess is you need to connect the Nest to the R terminal of thermostat 1 on the controller instead of R1.

It looks like your control system was designed and wired for a heatpump but you no longer have one (there are only 4 wires on the lower left block which I think is the output to the furnace/AC compressor).  If so the O and B wires are unneeded and can be removed from the control panel.

So what I would try:

Zone 1 R to Nest Rh  (24VAC Hot)
Zone 1 C to Nest C   (24VAC Common)
Zone 1 W to Nest W1  (Heat)
Zone 1 Y to Nest Y1  (Cool)
Zone 1 G to Nest G (Fan)

Only thing I don't understand is how the fan gets turned on by the second thermostat in Cool mode.  (In cool usually the thermostat has to tie both G and Y to R (24VAC Hot), in heat only W has to be tied to R (+24VAC Hot)... Since it works it must be something the controller does automatically.

By connecting the Nest to the C terminal it gets access to 24VAC without trying to power it self from "leakage current".

It you want to test, jumper Zone 1 R to Y for a minute and see what happens.  Does the compressor come on outside?  Does the interior blower fan?

Double check this against the manuals..


Boiler heating gauge drops to negative pressure (psi) on cooling I just moved into a older house (1937) which has a boiler heating system (steam). When the boiler kicks on the gauge barely goes above 0 psi, and after heating the gauge will drop to about negative 5 -7 psi. It eventually settles back to 0 psi if the heat does not run for a while.

I will also add that most of the house heats up except for the room farthest from the boiler. And the water level appears correct on the sight tube.

Do I need a new gauge? And how can I get the far room warmer? Is there something else I should consider?

Thanks.

Water cannot compress, only gasses like air and steam can. So if there is no steam an no air in the system, the expansion of the hot water as it pushes against the cooler pipes can be problematic. So most systems have an "expansion tank" that holds an amount of trapped air to allow for that change in pressure so that the pipes don't burst. Once everything is at the same temperature, no pressure shows. But the hot water should be flowing in the pipes, that's why you get the heat. When it turns off, the water cools faster than the pipes, so you get that negative pressure again for a while. In other words that part all sounds normal.

Heat given off into the room is based on the flow of hot water. So there is usually a circulating pump in the hot water piping system, often right next to the boiler. Do you hear that running? If not, it should be and that's your problem. Hot water could still be circulating a little bit due to natural convection, but you need the pump to make it work well. Even if it is running the pump may be bad, especially if it is old. The impellers are usually made of bronze and can corrode if your water chemistry is bad.


Hot Water Knob Drips When Cold Water Is Turned On I have an older shower set-up the 3 knob one (from left to right - hot, Diverter, cold).  I just replaced the valve-stem for all 3 due to leaking in the wall (where the valve stem connects to the "house" plumbing, sorry in advance for my lack of terminology).  Now, I do not have anymore leaking in the wall (I verified before posting this), but I have 2 strange things taking place:

  1) The hot and cold knob twist more than triple what they did before I replaced the valve stems.  (Water pressure seems to stop at the original location, but the knobs are allowed to continue to twist)
  2) When the cold knob is twisted, water will drip from the hot knob

What is my plan of action for remedying this?

EDIT
This is an image of the valve stem that I got for my brand at my local box store

EDIT 2

I can confirm the water is NOT leaking from either of these locations (both "behind the wall")

Try tightening the packing nut on the hot side. If that doesn't do it you need to put in a new packing nut washer or rope. Here's what's happening: both valves closed it's not going to leak from either stem, hot valve open there's no pressure on the stem because all the water is going to the diverter and cold valve which will leak from the stem if the packing is bad, cold valve open water is going to the diverter and the hot valve and leaking out the stem.


How do I fix a sticking toilet refill float? After flushing, my toilet doesn't sense that it needs to refill. See the below image. If I so much as gently touch the gray piece, the toilet starts to refill. Any easy fixes?

Try to clean the valve by following these steps:

Shutoff the water to the toilet.
Flush the toilet to empty the tank (doesn't have to be completely empty, but you want some working space).
Open the valve by lifting the float to the top position, pressing down on the black plastic cap that covers the valve, and giving it a 1/8 to 1/4 turn. You should then be able to lift the cap directly off.
Clean sediment or other buildup off any small components of the valve, and if anything is easily detached, remove it temporarily for the next step. Be sure to check inside of the cap where the lever is attached.
While the cap is off, place a cup over the top of the valve and open the water supply for a few short bursts. The cup prevents a small geyser from appearing in your bathroom and the water will drain into the toilet tank (this is why you flushed it earlier). This process will clear any sediment out of the valve and supply line, including any sediment that may break free from the toilet shutoff valve.
With the water shutoff again, reassemble the valve, and attach it in the reverse process (lifting the lever on the float allows you to turn the cap with a little downward pressure on the cap).
Cross your fingers and turn the water supply back on.


Electrical component melting? I'm not sure what this may be, so I would really appreciate your help and specialism towards this. Recently, I found that my cabinet containing the fuse-box, electrical meter and other components began giving off the smell of burning tobacco.
Although, after closer inspection I found that a component is melting, and I'm not sure how serious this is? And what exactly is the function of the thing that is melting, and what may be causing this?
Here are some photos:

To me that looks like dielectric grease leaking out.
That is the building ground bus looks like it was cad welded on the left of the one photo I would be really surprised if you were getting enough return on that large of a ground to melt things. May be A plug to cover the connections.
Always a good idea to call when in doubt but I think it is grease or a anti oxide compound.


How can I ensure an angle valve points in the direction I want it to? This may sound silly but after a few home improvement projects involving minor plumbing tasks (like changing faucets) this has always bothered me.

I'm going to talk about the specific example of an angle valve since it's the one I've faced more often, but this could apply to any kind of plumbing accessory that you twist on until its tight.

I've included an image below of the kind of thing I'm talking about in case the translation I googled is off.

In Europe at least, usually you have a shut-off valve like the one in the picture on every water point in the house. In my case, in the house I moved in, I had some very crappy ones with plastic handles that broke with time and didn't serve their purpose anymore (you couldn't use them to shut the water without using pliers)

When installing the replacement it bothered me that I could not get it tight and pointing to the direction more convenient to then connect it to the appliance/faucet.

Logic seems to dictate that it's however the ridges/groves align between the female point on the wall and the valve's male connection but it's weird for an amateur to see that such a detail would be left to luck or expecting that the female point on the wall was mounted with any intention regarding ridges or what will connect to it.

When I faced this, first I tried starting to twist at different points but found that they only engage at very specific points which makes sense and shows the same result (or same 2 results in some cases) no matter where you start. Then I thought just to tighten it to the maximum then go back enough until it's in the position I want it to be, but even when properly using Teflon tape around the grooves I've found that it needs to be absolutely tight to not have any sort of leaks.

Is there any trick to it?

It isn't a game of chance. A few wraps of PTFE (Teflon) tape give you the flexibility to stop at an appropriate angle. The characteristic compressibility of the tape means you don't have to bottom the joint out to make it seal.

If you find that the joint bottoms out before it feels snug enough, start over. Remove the used tape and apply a few more wraps than last time.


Why does cold water comes out faster when the hot water is turned off? I had my bathroom refurbished a while ago.  Ever since, when I have my kitchen taps (downstairs) both hot and cold on fully, then turn off the hot tap, cold comes out much faster.  Any clues as to why?  I mentioned this to the plumber who did the job, who said he didn't know why and left it at that.  Is there anything I can do to resolve this problem?  I also don't think the pressure is as good in my bath taps as it used to be.  I did have a powerful shower installed.

In some systems, hot water comes from a first-floor tank pressurised by a cold-water header-tank in the loft. This header-tank also supplies the cold water taps. Part of the reason for this is that mains water supply to the house is at a high pressure, the header tank provides a lower and more constant pressure that is more suitable for household taps and appliances.

Normally the cold water tank has separate outlets for each to prevent the sort of problems you describe. If your system instead uses a single low-pressure feed pipe to both cold taps and to the hot-water cylinder, that might explain the symptoms.

Since you say 'tap' and not 'faucet' I suspect you may live in a locale where the above applies.

A better plumber might be able to advise what can be done to improve the situation.