Repairing tile laid on harwood floor - how to make best of bad situation? The previous owner of my house laid slate tile over hardwood in the entryway.  A 9 square foot area has become loose and I need to re-set the tiles.  Pulling everything out is not an option; I'm wondering how to make best of a bad situation.

Several products I've seen say specifically "don't apply directly to hardwood" (eg http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-133.pdf).  I'm wondering if using an appropriate primer first will make success more likely, such as CBP's Multi-Surface Bonding Primer (http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-115.pdf).  They describe it as "polymer-modified mortar ... for tiling difficult surfaces, such as plywood, vinyl and laminates, and for hard-to-bond, nonporous tile, such as porcelain and glass."

More generally, when a tile adhesive says "don't use directly on" hardwood or another surface is this because the product will perform poorly or because there could be unintended consequences (eg chemical reaction).

The problem isn't the finish of the wood, it is expansion and contraction. Wood moves a lot, even more so in entries. Only 2 options: take it out and use plywood over the wood and then tile, or keep making repairs.


Do you know what this "connector piece" is called and where to buy it? Does anyone know what the "connector piece" mentioned in this video at 6min 11s is called: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HIOiyPKUbQ&t=6m10s

And where to buy it?

I could not find it Lowe's, Home Depot, Alkaviva, or the place that sold the water filter unit.

I don't mind buying the entire kit if I have to, but I just can't find where I can buy it from.

Thank you and Happy Holidays :)

Update 1:
Sorry, but I should clarify that the Shark Bit quick connect did not work because the threaded end did not reach far enough in to the spout side.

I have a video too, but StackExchange won't allow videos.

Update 2:
I tried to contact the manufacturer but there was a language barrier so not much information was exchanged.  I also tried contacting the person who posted the video, but have not received a response.

1/4" quick connect fitting available all good plumbing and hardware stores, just make sure you cut the tube square and it is pushed in all the way.


What are these parts (for an IKEA INGOLF kitchen chair) I want to replace these plastic widgets in my IKEA INGOLF kitchen chairs with metal ones -- but I don't know what the metal ones are called. This is the chair: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/ingolf-chair-white-70103250/.
Any idea what the bent metal widgets (about 2cm) are called? I'm not sure where I got them from -- probably some other furniture.
The 1st image shows 2 of them: one being used to hold the chair together and the other loose. And the 2nd image is a screenshot from the Ingolf assembly manual.

Try searching for a "half moon nut". You'd also do fine with a regular round metal washer.


Would it hurt my water pump if installed a second water pump on the output of the first? I have a well in my garden(17m deep, 1m diameter), in it there is a platform on which my water pump for my house sits. Before the water comes out my faucet or shower it travels across some 20 to 30 meters of small diameter pipe. So the water pressure at the end is miserable.

Can I connect another water pump right before(4m of pipe away) my shower, so that this pump would suck water from the first pump, create pressure and deliver comfortable pressure of water to my shower?

Of course, I need some place for the second pump, it would create some noise, but would that be ok or would the first water pump get damaged?

If the problem is undersized pipe, you need larger pipe, or some other coping mechanism such as a large pressure tank at the house.

Placing a pump on the end of the small pipe will likely cause the second pump to cavitate, which generally damages the pump. Water can only be sucked so hard before it boils, at any temperature.

If you want a pump on the house side, you can do that, but you'd need to provide a large cistern to serve as the water source for that pump, so it's drawing from the stored water in the cistern, not the too-small pipe.

A larger pipe is a much simpler solution to this problem in most cases.


How can I insulate my attic conversion, without pulling down the plasterboard? I recently purchased a house, and it has an attic conversion. Once winter came along we found out that there is no insulation between the roof and the plasterboard.

Does anyone know of a way I can get it insulated without pulling down all the plasterboard?

The most common method would be to blow in high density cellulose between the rafters. This method requires that a small hole (1 to 2 inches each) be drilled in sheetrock, at the top and bottom of each bay. After the insulation is blown in, repair the holes or use plugs to cover the holes. Foam can also be used, but is about 4X the cost of cellulose and very tricky to install without bowing or damaging the rock.

Regardless if you use cellulose or foam, this is not typically a DIY project. Many insulation contractors offer this service and have the right tools to assure a good fill.


Top to furnace flue just blew off Sorry if this is posted in the wrong area.
Just a moment ago during a storm the top to my furnace flue blew off. Earliest someone can get out here to put it back on it Tomorrow.
How much damage will I be facing from the rain that will be going on all night? Furnace is located in the attic.

Likely, little or no damage was done in a single rainstorm, unless it was a deluge. If you don't see damp spots under the furnace, there's no puddle inside it, and it works now, then the replacement cap is not urgent... until the next storm.
Also, you or the repairman can drill a hole through the replaced cap and pipe and put in a small, self-taping sheet metal screw to prevent a repetition, similar to the way a downspout is held to a rain gutter.


Are these wires dangerous? I pulled on a cord for the light switch hanging from the ceiling in my bathroom and some plastic and metal casing fell off. This is the result. I know nothing about electronics - these look like exposed wires? Are these immediately dangerous? Should I be taking precautions?

This is in the UK.

Those are indeed hazardous "exposed wires", and you should take immediate precautions to make it impossible for anyone to inadvertently touch them. Ideally, you'd turn off power to that circuit and either keep it turned off, or while the power is off cover the exposed wires securely with an insulating device (a securely fastened wire nut, electrical tape, etc) until you can have someone replace the light fixture.


Why is the pilot on my GE water heater turning off when the burner turns off? I have 2 GE 28 gallon water heaters, both of which have the same problem. The water heater is turning off after a while, and I have to light the pilot again to got hot water. What could be causing the pilot to extinguish when the main burner shuts off?

'Gusting" of the combustion air can be caused if the shrouding around the base of heater is loose or missing.  Such gusting can knock out the pilot.
Another cause of pilot extinguishing is a too rapid start up of the main burner.  Usually there is a small baffle around the pilot, protecting it.
Too high a pressure of the gas would also cause a too large main flame.  This would have to be checked at the meter by a qualified technician.  This, obviously, is a dangerous condition.  Other gas appliances (gas stove) might reveal this condition.
Conversely, too low a pressure (and therefore, low gas flow) might make the pilot more sensitive.

Once the pilot is knocked out, cooling of the gas valve thermocouple will prevent restarts.


How can I extend a floating floor that was previously terminated at a wall? We have had an extension on our house and have bought the same laminate flooring that already exists and flows through the hallway, dining room and living room. We now have a new, 5x6m kitchen/diner extension (open plan to living room with existing laminate) which we want the same laminate to flow through into.

Obviously the existing laminate is cut off to where the wall used to be - now an archway - and we want to extend the laminate but DO NOT want a join/T-Mould.

Our builders have insisted we'd have to take up the entire floor in all three existing rooms, but does anyone know any tricks to just take up the cut-off bits? There must be some way of doing it!

It's a homebase click together laminate floor.

The only way this would be possible, in theory, would be for you to slide the truncated boards out of their positions lengthwise, and replace them. The trouble is that most flooring 1) has a core composed of particle or fiber composite, which has very high friction, and 2) has joint surfaces coated with a waxy material to create a water-resistant seal, and 3) requires that the end joints be tipped into place. Combined, these characteristics would make for a very difficult job of sliding along the length of the boards.

You'd then have to drive the new, full boards into position without damaging them and somehow engage (or modify or remove) the end joint fittings. All that typically proves impossible, or at least prohibitively impractical.

That said, many manufacturers offer kits and procedures for replacing individual boards if they get damaged. These sometimes involve a special joiner strip that allows you to engage the tongue or groove of the adjacent board in a manner required to fit it out of sequence. This may be one possible avenue.

Finally, most floating floors have a length or run limitation due to expansion and contraction. If your final run would exceed that number, typically somewhere around 30 feet, you shouldn't attempt this anyway.

The bottom line is that you'll need to investigate the specific product you're using for these options, make sure you understand the assembly process, assess your own skill level and the project parameters, and then either go for it or don't.


Winterize Sprinkler System I cannot find a service in northern NJ to winterize my sprinkler system for less than $100, so I want to try doing it myself, I just don't want to break anything. I've watched a few youtube videos, but haven't quite found a system that looks like mine so I really want to be sure I'm doing this right. I know where/how to shut off the water to the system in my basement. I was planning to rent an air compressor from home depot. I'm just not sure where to hook it up, and which knobs to turn and when. Below is a picture of my system. I added numbers to make it easier to reference the different parts.

You want to clear water from the system and the backflow valve.  It looks like the hose bib is a tee off the irrigation feed with its own valve.

If there is no inside shut-off valve dedicated to what comes out of the wall, follow these instructions:

Close valve 3 (turn perpendicular to the pipe).
Leave valve 1 open (parallel with the pipe).
Attach the compressor to port 4.  Turn the port 4 screw 1/4 turn so it's parallel with that stem.
Assuming you have an irrigation controller, cycle it through each zone for several minutes in each zone.  A "test" cycle may be long enough.  Water will spray from the irrigation heads, then it will turn to mist as the water is cleared out of the zone.  You want to pressurize each zone until there's nothing but air coming out of the last head in the zone.
When all of the zones are done, open port 2 (turn the screw 1/4 turn so it's parallel with that stem), and close valve 1.  Give it a few seconds to empty any water in that stem.
Remove the compressor from port 4.
Open valve 1.  Any pressure trapped in the system will escape through the open ports.
Close the two ports by turning the port 2 and port 4 screws perpendicular to their stems.
Leave valve 1 open and valve 3 closed (that will protect the backflow valve, which is expensive to replace).

You're done.

If there is a dedicated inside shut-off valve, follow these instructions, instead:

Close the inside valve.
Leave valve 3 open and open the port 4 valve.  Open the valve on the hose bib.  Close valve 1.
Attach the compressor to port 4.  Blow any water in the feed pipe out through the hose bib.
Leave the hose bib valve open and complete steps 1 through 8 above (including closing valve 3 and reopening valve 1 in steps 1 and 2).
Modified step 9: leave both valves 1 and 3 open.

BTW, you want a compressor with a lot of CFM or a large tank, but it doesn't need to be high pressure.  The compressed air will drain pretty fast when you're blowing it out of open ports and lots of sprinkler heads.


Why are my LED strip lights dim? I installed water proof LED 5630 strip lighting under my kitchen cabinets.  I used a kit of sorts with a small transformer and a remote dimmer switch.  Initially, it worked, but flickered at the end of the run.  An electrician suggested I remove the remote dimmer, so I installed an in line on/off switch.  That didn't help, so I purchased a different transformer at 12V/5A capacity. The lights are now real dim with the end of the run not lighting. The "run" is: 40" of single strand double wire from transformer to 41" light strip...170" of multi strand speaker wire going up in attic, over sink, then down and to a 20" light strip...then jumpered to 22" light strip...jumpered to another 22" light strip...jumpered to 57" light strip. I checked the transformer on a 5 meter length of strip lights and it worked fine. I'm not sure what my next step should be, and any help is appreciated.

You're run is too long. Each LED strip will draw considerable current and add quite a bit of resistance to the run. You don't say what gauge wires you have in between, but here is a rough guide for how far you can run a 12V line:

           24 AWG    22 AWG    20 AWG    18 AWG      16 AWG      14 AWG      12 AWG
DC 100mA  216 feet  342 feet  594 feet  867 feet  1,379 feet  2,197 feet  3,508 feet
DC 200mA  108 feet  171 feet  297 feet  433 feet    689 feet  1,098 feet  1,755 feet
DC 300mA   72 feet  113 feet  198 feet  289 feet    459 feet    732 feet  1,169 feet
DC 400mA   54 feet   85 feet  148 feet  216 feet    344 feet    549 feet    877 feet
DC 500mA   43 feet   68 feet  119 feet  173 feet    275 feet    439 feet    701 feet
DC 750mA   28 feet   45 feet   79 feet  115 feet    183 feet    293 feet    467 feet
DC 1000mA  21 feet   34 feet   59 feet   86 feet    137 feet    219 feet    350 feet

Basically, speaker wire is relatively thin and LED strips draw considerable current. If it were me I would probably not daisy chain all the strips together. Try wiring them in more of a star topology where each new LED strip connects to a splice off from a single voltage bus (wire). Consider upgrading your power carrier to a 12 or 14 gauge wire.

The current draw will depend on the actual number of LEDs in each strip, but from the distance you've quoted you might be very close to or over the 5A of the transformer.


How can I prevent unpleasant smells and organisms in our water tank? There is an 8000 liter water tank on top of my house which provides water for the house.

Bacteria, fungi, algae, etc. often start developing in the tank, giving unpleasant smells, etc.

The water is ground water that we pump up there with our own pump.

The tank is made of concrete and covered with a steel lid.

Nobody is drinking or cooking with the water. It's used for stuff like laundry, showers, washing dishes, etc.

What can I do to prevent these unpleasant qualities of the water? It's very hot here (like 40 celsius in the shade), and the water tank is in the baking sun.

My landlord is unlikely to want to make any large investments. Therefore, cheap solutions are a plus.

Edit: Several answers have suggested chlorination, and it seems like the best option. But I live in rural India and it's difficult to find chlorine here. Bleach, though is readily available. Does it seem suitable? I've asked this as a separate question on Chemistry SE.

Besides the suggestions above some things you might try:

Oxygenation: a small pump set up in the tank pumping the water into the air gap above water float level you have or an air pump pumping air into the water might help with some of the issues. The pump can be placed on a timer to cut down the electrical expense.

Refreshing the water on a regular basis.  A tank I set up for a Solar off-the-grid type situation pumped continuously into the tank during the day, (but with solar powered pump, so pumping was free), and the tank had an overflow outlet near the top which could be tapped into drip irrigation system.  Water was exchanged continuously, keeping growth down.  An alternative to this would be flushing and refilling the tank on a regular maintenance schedule.

Lastly, and possibly the best solution, would be simply placing a filter canister with a taste/odor filter cartridge between your tank and rest of the home.


Operation of two 3-way occupancy switches Considering using occupancy switches for my basement. I have not worked with these before but they sound appealing as hands are often full with laundry baskets, etc.

There is an existing conventional single pole switch at the top of the stairs. It does not  seem adequate to just replace this with an occupancy switch, as once you pass it on the way down, if you're down there long enough, even if configured for a long timeout, the switch will eventually time out and you'll be in the dark down there.

So maybe a 3-way occupancy circuit, using one in the existing position at the top of the stairs, and adding another down in the basement?

However, thinking about it, wouldn't this be a problem? You go past the switch at the top of the stairs, and that throws that switch, turning the basement lights on. But then, as you descend the stairs, you enter the range of the basement switch, which throws it. Now, wouldn't this then turn the lights off? And further, since no one is at the top of the stairs any longer, once that switch times out, wouldn't it throw the switch again, this time turning the lights on? If you then go upstairs, the basement switch will time out first, turning the lights off, but then the switch at the top of the stairs will time out, turning the lights back on?!

I must be missing something here, it seems this would never work. Or must you always use a conventional 3-way switch with a 3-way occupancy to avoid these situations?

The occupancy sensors that are commercially available, are not designed to work in this situation.

You could install the sensor in a location that covers both the door, and the rest of the basement.  This way the sensor would "see" you the whole time you're in the basement.

The other option is to roll your own solution, which would likely include multiple sensors and some form of central processor. Maybe some motion sensors and an arduino or raspberry pi.


Switch with 2 black wires and 1 white I looked at a few answers before I wrote this, but none seemed to apply appropriately.  The two I saw related to switched wiring for a plug and a light, but I am replacing a switch.
I took off an indoor switch connected to two outdoor lights.  The switch had 2 backstabbed black wires and one white wire attached to a screw on the side.  After further investigation, there were 4 cables coming into the box, each with a white, black, and ground.  All the white wires were gathered under a nut.  Two black wires were in a nut with the white wire attached to my switch.  And the two remaining black wires were the backstabbed black wires.
My black wires do not fit in the push in the back part of my new switch, plus it seems those are unreliable.  How do I get this connected back with my new switch?

This may not be the ideal solution but I did get it connected an working.  I did not realize that I could put more than one of the wires on a single screw on the switch.  Once I figured this out, I simply connected the formerly backstabbed wires to their corresponding screws and doubling up on the screw that already had a wire on it.
Thanks for the help, and if you have suggestions on making it better, let me know.


Why is this apartment water heater so much more expensive than my bigger home one? A friend living alone in a 2 bedroom condo needs a new water heater and has been quoted over $4000 from multiple plumbers to replace the one pictured.    I live in a 6 bedroom house with 7 people, I replaced my water heater with a much larger one for $1500 and we've never run out of hot water, ever.  I've never lived in an apartment, I have no idea what constraints there are or why a water heater should cost 3 times one that serves a house 3 times the size.  Two plumbers told her she has no choice, there's only one model she can use.   Why is this the case, and what should our expectations be?  Why is the pictured unit SO expensive and why is it impossible to replace it with one that is not?    Explain to someone who has only ever lived in a house with a $1000 water heater merrily doing its job for decades.  (And for clarity, I replaced my home water heater 2 years ago for $1500 including installation.  It's a 75 gal Bradford White.)
Existing condo heater pictured.

EDIT: Responding to question in comments about the red hose.  From another two of several more photos I have, it looks like  it goes from a PRV on the cold supply to the drain.  I will inspect more closely when I'm next there.

I think it's fear of downgrading.
I think the pro plumbers are unwilling to downgrade them.
For instance, the latest Codes require water heaters to have better insulation than they did before. This means they are larger.  This is a well-known problem: a new heater often won't fit in the same location.  That means you must either downgrade a size, or go to a taller heater.  That's already a pretty tall heater, and it's hard to go much taller in that space, so they may be forced into something exotic to stay at 50 gallons.
Why not just quote the customer a 50 and a 40/30 and let them decide?  Because in the real world, plumbers are finding that people don't understand the consequences of their choices, and blame the plumber.
So they might have better luck opening the dialogue with asking for the downgrade: "I hate that 50-gallon thing, I'd much rather have a 30 like I used to have, and get rid of that stupid pre-heating system too, it just makes my cold water hot".  That way you are putting the plumber on advance notice that you want the downgrades.
There is no reason for a 2-person condo to need a 50-gallon heater if they are sensible with showers (and showerhead flow).  If they are insensible with showers then they are better off with a gas tankless, which will provide unlimited hot water at perfectly respectable rates.  Gas tanklesses are expensive, but they're sure as heck not $4000.
It may also be a bacteria thing
Science has made a lot of forward progress on how people get sick from hot water (the Flint water crisis had a little to do with this).  It turns out, water heaters set at certain temperatures are breeding grounds for bacteria.  These are the same temperatures you set to avoid scalding, something you really want for seniors, who might have a "senior moment" and blast the hot.   Unfortunately the most vulnerable people to water-heater-borne bacteria are also seniors.
So... the gold standard for retirement communities is now to jack water heater temperature up to a bacteria-killing 140F/60C.  However, since that creates an equally bad scald situation, this can only be done if ALL hot faucets are changed to thermostatic types that will automatically mix in cold water to keep water at scald-safe temperatures.
So the big quote may include re-kitting the house with appropriate faucets, including shower-and-tub work, which can get expensive if the builder didn't leave you an access hatch.
A pleasant upside to having hotter hot water, is that the same temperature at-the-faucet uses less hot water, and that makes the hot water runtime run longer.  So a 40 gallon tank @140F  can easily replace a 50 gallon @115F.
I also suspect a cheapo "pre-heating" system
Some people like to install "circulation pumps" to churn hot water down the pipes, so the hot water in the pipes is already hot, and they get almost instant hot water out of the faucet.
This requires a "return line" back to the water heater for the water that was moved through the pipe.  Most houses do not have this hard-plumbed.
So the el-cheapo method of solving this problem is to simply use the cold water line as a return pipe - taking the tepid and warming water in the pipe and pumping it back into the cold water pipe.
Now, consider the implications when this is combined with a bacteria-safe 140F water heater and thermostatic faucets.  The user calls for hot water -- too hot!  So the thermostatic faucet automatically mixes in some cold water to reduce the 140F hot down to safe temperature. Except the cold water is too-hot also, because of the cheapo circulation pump filling it with hot water.  This creates a guaranteed-scald scenario.
Needless to say, this all creates a big mess for the plumber to have to contend with, versus customer expectations that nothing get worse.
Let me harken back to the idea that tankless heaters don't heat water except during flow, so they don't store hot water, so they don't breed bacteria.  You can set a tankless to 110F and just run it like that. That takes the scald situation completely off the table.


Can I use hot mud to create orange peel texture I have Westpac Joint compound fast set 40 lite.

Can I use this to create texture on a wall?

What is the basic difference in the texture specific compound (like Homax below) and fast set compound (picture above)?

I have used hot mud in a texture gun. Make sure to run it wet or it may plug the gun and cause problems. If you notice it setting up before the hopper is empty dump it and wash the gun or your gun may be toast. hot mud sets harder than regular mud. Both mixes will work fine and when you have your orifices set you can get the thickness you desire. Just a note never use warm or hot water only cold. warm / hot water will cause the mud to set much faster that's how I know about the gun being toast. I could not clean it out.
Added after not using a sprayer comment: It will be difficult to get a good orange peal with a roller. If using a roller I would strongly advise not to use hot mud because the working time is short it will need to be made up in small batches and it is really tough to sand.


Can you increase the speed of an ECM AC blower? I have a Trane XV95_060 for furnace and Trane XR15-018 for AC
I would like to know if the speed of the blower can be adjusted (increased)

Before I had a 1ton AC and that was all right for the house
That was replaced with the above 1.5 ton and apparently it can not cool the house as needed. I am not sure what is wrong but I am trying to understand why it is not working better than before

Edit: OK After reading more I realized that my problem might be the opposite and that is that the air goes too fast through the coil and it does not cool enough. I have 15C at the register level. There is not much condense and I do not see any change in the RH when I run the AC for longer periods of time

Here is what I had before

and here is what was configured on my current unit

When you asked to increase the blower, what you are really asking to do is increase the fan speed (amount of air), right? You could ask the the tech to check/verify that you are getting 1600 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and if you truly are, and if that's not enough, ask them if it is possible to increase it (it might be adjustable). But I am thinking that may not really be the issue.

Your real problem is that it's not cooling the house. I'm not sure if this issue is truly the result of a weak blower (insufficient CFM); it's very possible, but honestly, a 1.5 ton unit is pretty small. For a 1,000 square foot house, I might recommend at least one 3 ton unit or preferentially, two 2 ton units, depending on your lattitude (summer temperature). Below is a map and chart. I would generally recommend double the what they recommend on the chart below, because you will only use what you need.

In case you didn't know, having more (AC tonnage) doesn't mean that you will use more. If you set the thermostat to say 70 °F, then the AC will turn off when the house is at 70 °F. If you have fifteen 3 ton units, you will use the same amount of energy to cool the house to 70 °F as one 2 ton unit (give or take maybe 5% energy).

Map source:http://www.acdirect.com/ac-package-unit-learning-center-ac-sizing-calculator

Edit based on comment that the AC is actually a dehumidifier:

Dehumidifier? Well, that's a key piece of information. The old unit may not have been well designed as a dehumidifier; if the newer unit has been set up to be more like an actual dehumidifier then that would explain the question. The older unit was probably designed (more) for cooling. The newer unit might be a more for dehumidifying.

The difference between an air conditioner and a dehumidifier is that the air in a dehumidifier first passes through the cooling coil and then back through the heating coil (basically, there will be little change in room temp) and then back into the room as dry air. In fact, the temperature might be higher.

Unfortunately, this means that the answer is to install an actual air conditioner or re-engineer the dehumidifier to make it an air conditioner.

Edit2 Okay it's not a dehumidifier. It's a regular AC and you have a separate dehumidifier. Regular AC units have protective coatings to help prevent condensation on the evaporating/cooling coil. That protective coating usually doesn't last forever which is why older AC units often collect water. Typically, you don't want the AC to collect water (that causes rust and mold issues). For a regular AC unit, having the blower on high is okay. Lower speeds (lower CFM) may cause condensation to occur (depending on all the bells and whistles).

The dehumidifier is where you do want condensation- to remove moisture. Cooling the air should help your dehumidifier to operate, because as the temperature is lowered, the relative humidity will increase. When measuring the relative humidity, the temperature is a/the factor. For example, say that you have 44% humidity at 70 °F; it has about 0.26 grams of water/vapor per cubic foot. At 50 °F the relative humidity of 0.26 grams of vapor per cubic foot would be about 92%. A dehumidifier should be able to operate more efficiently at 92% RH than 44% RH... so that's why an AC unit can help a dehumidifier.

I suspect that when you measured the RH in the basement it was higher than you expected (maybe about the same as the RH outside), but if the temperature was lower in the basement (than outside), then having the same RH means that you actually have less water vapor in the basement, where it's cooler.

To recap: The service technician might be able to increase (or decrease) the blower speed, but that would probably lower the AC's cooling efficiency. Your new AC unit is not collecting water (yet) because the anticondensation coating hasn't been compromised (yet); and that's a good thing. A 1.5 ton AC unit may not be large enough to cool the basement. Cooling the basement should help the dehumidifier. And remember, the relative humidity is based on the temperature.


Convert light fixture to receptacle Current situation

On my garage ceiling there is a light fixture which has been converted via the adapters pictured. It is controlled by a switch which I don't like because I never want to turn off the garage door opener. A voltage tester shows the screws are hot when the switch is on. It was like this when I moved in. So my first question is -- is this safe/proper?

Desired situation

I'd like to convert this fixture to a real receptacle using the cover plate pictured. I'd like the top receptacle to be 'always on' for the garage door opener. I'd still like the bottom receptacle to be controlled by the switch so I can plug in a nearby hanging light.

Here is the wiring situation:

I just wanted to get an idea of how complicated this will be and whether it's a smart and safe upgrade to make. Any feedback would be appreciated!

It looks like you have a standard box and not a light box. So you don't need the light box receptacle cover. In theory, you should be able to add the receptacle without issue and just use a standard outlet cover.

You can split the hot side by breaking out the tab. Assuming the nutted blacks run to the switch, you can add another hot and wire it to the top "always-on" outlet, and let the switch power the bottom.

The only downside I see to this is they're grounding to the box. Without knowing if the box is grounded, you might not be getting any ground at all if they just screwed it to a wood joist. If the box is grounded, what you'll need is a grounding clip and then run a wire from the clip to the outlet.


How to Apply Decorative Exterior Trim When Trim Width Exceeds Side Casing I have very old aluminum windows and am planning to replace them soon. My current window trim is nailed on over the siding but since I will be cutting back the siding to nail the window flange I figured I'd add inset trim. I understand how to do a rectangular trim properly but would like to add some craftsman touches as that would match my house better. Nothing fancy like cove trim, something more shaker style.

I have looked at a ton of videos, diagrams and explanations online of how to trim exterior windows and have one question I cannot get answered to my satisfaction. In places where the decorative trim extends past the rectangular profile of the flat window trim, what do you do? For example, the crown trim, cap, sill and bullnose may be wider than the side casing. Do you simply rabbet such trim so that where it extends past the sides of the flat trim it lays on top of the siding?

I'm sure this is a very basic question for anyone who has done a lot of windows installs. I'm sorry if it's already been asked and answered. I for the life of me could not come up with a way to formulate this question such that I could find a helpful response in google, youtube or on this site.

If you want those type of details, you need t protect those type of details with the proper methods.

At the head of the window the crown detail will be cut back to the subsiding. This means the siding that is around the window now will need to be removed to make the proper cuts and for proper layering in for weatherization. After the head trim is complete, it will need to be covered with flashing, which in you case most likely will need to be custom bent. It need to be bent so the drip edge is about a 1/4" if possible, 1/2" at most. The flat, which really isn't flat needs to be bent so when it is set in place it will have a slight slope away from the building so no water has any reason to set on top. then the vertical leg to the subsiding needs to be about 2" tall.

The neck band, or parting bead as some call it can be set to the face of the siding, no need to cut the profile into the siding, since most vertical meeting places are caulked only. There are other details that are used nowadays that require the use of a peel and stick around the perimeter of the newly set window, but that will go around the new windows, under the trim you will apply.

The sill needs to be set at an angle, 7 to 12 degree has been the range in the past. The vertical trim meeting the top of the sill needs to be cut the same degree and sealed very well with primer and when set in place, bedding it in a high quality water based caulk and wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Before all that is done the sill needs to be cut to size, checked for fit, back primed and set in sealant as well since it will most likely be set only on the face of the wall and will not be set in the traditional fashion, as in running into the rough opening and the window set on top.

The sill needs particular attention to the caulk bedding, since the fasteners used to hold it in place will be in critical areas that will allow water in if not dealt with properly and will lead to rotting the framing if not done well.

Its rough, but I hope it gets the idea across


How to drill and waterproof a hole in cinder block for PVC drain? I have a new electric hybrid water heater that emits condensation from a drain tube (normal) which is a bit different than a traditional electric water heater. Right now I have a bucket under the drain pipe and it drains about 1/2 gallon (+/-) per day.

I need to make the pipe drain outside and the water heater is in the garage right next to the wall, so hopefully this is trivial. Regardless I want to know the proper method to do this. I am going to use 1/2" PVC pipe to drain outside.

I have a 1/2" hammer drill, so i suppose I need a large masonry bit (the size of the outside diameter of the 1/2" pipe) and some kind of silicone to seal around the hole, correct?

Can someone please tell me if this is the proper thinking, or how I should go about drilling a hole through cinder block (do I need to worry about wires or rebar?) and seal it?

Your instincts sound right. Be sure the drain tube is slanted downward as it exits. Also be sure the outside end of the tube will not be blocked (by leaves, snow, etc.) and that there is adequate drainage away from the outlet site. The ground should be pitched away from the wall (as in every foundation).

The likelihood of rebar or wiring within the cinderblock is very small. To be certain, go slowly and inspect with a light as the pressure changes in drilling. There are hollow sections in concrete and cinder blocks and you should be aiming for those, rather than the webbing between holes.

Sealing should be done with a weatherproof cualking on both inside and outside.


Why are 3-way center-off wall switched so rare / expensive? I'm looking for a switch to mount in an upstairs hallway that will control an attic/roof ventilation fan.  The switch will select whether I want the attic thermostat to control the fan, vs manual-on, vs off (fan will not come on).  The price for something like this (center-off, constant-contact (not momentary), single-pole double-throw aka "3-way") whether toggle-style or flat (Decora or similar) is upwards of $50 - $70.  Or I can get a plate-mounted SPDT center-off paddle-style switch (something you'd expect to see in an airplane cockpit) for under $10.

I could swear I've seen these 3-way center-off switches in the past.  Why so rare and expensive now?

Simply lay two common switches right next to each other.  One is SPST and turns the whole caboodle on and off.  The other is a plain 3-way which selects between "always" or "thermostatic" - common goes to the switched-hot off the SPST, one traveler goes straight to the fan, and the other traveler feeds the thermostat.

You'll need /3 cable between the switches and thermostat, or between switches and fan if the thermostat is on a spur.

If you only have a 1-gang space, you can get dual 3-way switches -- you bridge both commons to each other.  On the top switch, one of the "on/off" travelers is disused and the other goes to supply.

The other option is to do the thermostat wiring in 24V low voltage, then you can use any switch you please.

Of course, if your AHJ (local inspector) approves switching mains power with an electronics-tier switch which lacks a UL listing or has a ЯU electronic component listing, then you can use it. NEC 110.2.


What is the purpose of the sand/gravel bed under dry-laid flagstone? I have soil with a lot of clay in it and few stones, so it's not too hard to get level.  I've got flagstone in a couple of small areas.  Some of it is on a bed of gravel and some of it is on bare soil.  I don't see that one is any worse off than the other.  I was just curious if the sand/gravel bed typically installed under flagstone is for drainage, ease of leveling, weed control, pest control or other..

Leveling, drainage, and protection of the flagstone, especially in freezing climates.  Basically, in heavy soils, water can pool up under the flagstones and produce frost heaves, which will allow the flagstones to break much more easily. The sand and gravel produces an even base that supports the whole stone, and keeps it from cracking.


What hard material is behind the plaster on interior walls in my 1920s apartment? I moved into an old (c. 1920s) rental apartment building in the northeastern US (Philadelphia) and would like to hang pictures and secure some furniture.

I tried putting nails in several places around the house, on internal and shared walls, but the nails only go about 0.5" deep into the plaster (I cannot find any studs). There seems to be a hard surface behind that spot. I had no such issues with external walls.

What material is most likely to be found around 0.5" into the wall?

If the wall has studs they could be yellow pine which "turns to stone" when the wood dries. Try to drill very small pilot holes to see if is wood or something else.


Why are the deck footing blocks set away from the house several inches in this video? I watched this video (building a free-standing porch) and wondered what is the reason that the back concrete blocks are not tight to the house wall. Basically he places them away from the house by a few inches.

The finished exterior wall is out from the concrete foundation somewhat. If the footing blocks were set tight to the foundation, there would be no room for the rim joists that wrap around the posts.


Wiring for kitchen remodel - appliances, electric oven/microwave combo, fridge, 2 dishwashers I am working on a plan for a kitchen remodel. The existing range is natural gas powered so it doesn't have a dedicated circuit (It's just plugged into a 15 or 20amp outlet). Other existing wiring includes a dedicated microwave circuit (15amp breaker but need to check wire gauge). This one I suppose can be used for the fridge (since the fridge currently doesn't seem to have a dedicated breaker).
The oven/microwave combination model I am looking at is KitchenAid KOCE500EBS (KOCE500E model, the BS is just a color code) or similar. The installation manual has these electrical requirements.

My breaker box has a 200A main breaker but I am basically out of room. There is a sub-panel wired right next to it (with a 40A double breaker) that I added for laundry and it has room for 4 single breakers.
What options do I have here? I'm thinking the best approach would be to offload a couple of 15amp circuits marked with red rectangle on the photo (provided I have enough slack - which I should for those bottom breakers) and wire them into a sub-panel. This would free up 2 neighboring boxes in the main panel for a double 40A breaker. Is this a good solution? If I cannot relocate those two 15amp breakers, can I wire for the oven from the sub-panel or do I need to beef up the sub-panel circuit (and by how much), since it already has washer/dryer? Should I be using an 8 AWG or 6 AWG wire to cover me for any future upgrades (say double oven)?
Thanks so much!
Dave
The photos of the panels are shown below.

Upgrade that tiny sub-panel. For under $200 you should be able to get a 30-space Eaton panel that will let you re-use all the breakers in your existing 8-space Eaton panel, plus wire and sub-feed lugs for your Siemens main panel. Speaking of which, that BR240 breaker in your main panel that feeds the pictured sub-panel is an alien - it does not belong in there. It may seem to fit, but bus stabs and breaker jaws have subtly different shapes and mixing incompatible types can lead to arcing and bus damage. If you keep the sub-panel as is, you need to replace that with a QP240.
Note, if you replace your sub-panel with a bigger Eaton unit, you can recycle that BR240 by moving it into the sub-panel and use it to feed the new oven.


What is the most cost-effective way to reduce sound coming up my staircase? We bought a two-story house with a fairly open-plan staircase. See below:

My desk sits right by the top of the stairs, and a lot of sounds echo up the stairs from the kitchen. Since we are work-from-home, this means there's a lot of sounds going on, including meetings or just watching videos downstairs.
We got stair runners that helped a little bit to dampen sound, but I can still hear downstairs conversations clearly upstairs (although not vice versa). So, I am thinking about putting up a few sound-absorbing panels (e.g. here) to insulate upstairs from downstairs a bit more.
What would be the most efficient way to place these on the stairs to absorb the most sound?

The "most efficient" way would probably be best determined by a full acoustical analysis of your house. Since that would take time and money you probably don't want to spend...
As a way to temporarily test it out:

lay a 2x4 flat on the upstairs floor, along the bottom of the railing.
Use string to attach the panels to the 2x4 and hang them along the walls.
Move them around until you find an arrangement that seems to provide the best noise attenuation.
Permanently attach panels at these locations.

Since those panels are a bit... unattractive (unless you're into the whole "recording studio" vibe), consider hanging paintings, artwork and tapestries on the walls of the stairwell. Anything that has depth (paintings with chunky frames, artwork), or softness (the tapestries) will interfere with the reflection of sound waves coming up the stairs and help attenuate the sounds. A thick carpet on the stairs will help, too.
As noted in other answers, though, your best bet is going to be blocking the sounds from getting into this space in the first place. Since you have an open staircase that you can't install a permanent door on, consider a temporary door made of heavy fabric (like a blanket) that can be hung from upstairs (consider the 2x4 on the floor trick again), dropped down when you're working, and raised back up to regain the look when not needed.


Is underground electrical cable underwater capable? Is electrical cable that is rated for installation underground, also capable of being laid underwater? Through a stream or across a pond?

Also, please make sure to mention if it is possibly but not ideal, or a just as good as/superior solution.

Absolutely not.  Underground rating presumes physical protection by the surrounding earth.

Undersea cable is designed to be laid on the sea floor.  You may have other threats like water-moved rocks, or the footfalls of people or animals that even undersea cable is not made to deal with.   There might be no cable rated for that duty.

If the cable is buried so it is both underwater and underground (in reasonable soil near the cable, i.e. not sharp rocks; but then rocks or something above to stop stream bed erosion) -- that would be fine.


Will powerline networking work in my home? I'm thinking of starting to use powerline networking for my pc, but I heard that if the outlet near my modem and the outlet near my pc are on different breakers, powerline networking won't work. How do I see if powerline networking will work for me? Thanks in advance.

It strongly depends on the age of your house, the brand of breakers, whether they are on opposite service legs, and whether they are straight magnetic breakers or AFCI or GFCI breakers, which is often determined by the age of your home and whether the equipment is in a bedroom or kitchen.

In particular some early AFCI breakers would block powerline networking.

My suggestion is to buy it and try it, and to return it or see if you can move a breaker if it doesn't work.


Light fixture with Pull chain In attempts to open up the light fixture and figure out how to re-attach a chain to the pull chain attachment, the black wire connecting to the pull string fell out of the fixture. I’m not sure if it goes (as you would assume) into the area where the black goes on the fixture, and just want to check for sure. I know the white wire coming from the lamp holder goes into the white spot, so I assume the black on the pull string attachment goes into black. See photos for clarification on my explanation to where I think they should be going.

The second question - do I have to find a part that has both the lamp holder + pull chain mechanism already connected or is it possible to buy just the pull chain? Seems like it may be soldered but wanted to double check.. (see photo 2 of where pull chain mechanism is connected to lamp holder

Thanks in advance!!

Reconnecting the light is just white-to-white and black-to-black.  That's pretty simple, but it never hurts to double check.

As for the second question, it does look like the pull chain switch is riveted to the lamp socket.  Those types of fixtures are cheap these days ($15 for fixture, $5 for just the switch), so you should just replace the whole fixture.  Don't worry about finding a pull chain mechanism and trying to splice the wires, etc.

If you really want to keep that fixture because it has sentimental value, you would want to cut the insulated wire going to the pull chain switch as close to the switch as possible to give you plenty of room for a wire splice.  You won't be able to attach directly to the light socket since its riveted, so a wire splice is the only option.


How can I replace this corroded metal P-Trap with a new PVC trap? I have a big problem at my apartment, the metal p-trap has a hole under my kitchen sink drain pipes due to corrosion, I was told I could temporarily fix it applying epoxy, but I would rather fix the problem permanently, I was told I could replace the p-trap with another one that is PVC, my question is how to adapt the PVC to the other pipes that are steel. Please help, see pictures attached.

If you notice at the top, there is a handy dandy nut (if you will) that you can unscrew. Take that off, and you're half way to removing it.

After that, you can unscrew the bottom of the p trap from the rest of the pipe.

Next you will need a PVC P trap kit. Make sure you bring your old pipe to the hardware store and check that you get the correct size (Most kitchen sinks are 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 in.)

Figure out the correct orientation of your p trap. The long pipe included should fit inside of the existing metal pipe nicely. If not, shorten it a little bit with a hack saw. Careful though, the pvc is fragile and easy to crack!

You should be able to save the original section of pipe you unscrewed first if you disconnect it from the sink. (See red arrow) The PVC part of the p trap should screw nicely into the green arrow part of the pipe. You may need to use the original nut, but if that doesn't fit, use the pvc one included in the kit. Make sure it's tight!

Have fun!


Will styrofoam insulation prevent condensation from dripping from metal roofing? I live in south Georgia and am enclosing a back deck. I am using metal roofing.  Will styrofoam insulation prevent condensation from dripping from roof?  Would the silver side go up or down?

Condensation is caused by the underside of the roofing getting colder than the dew point. To prevent this, you would need to insulate the underside and achieve a perfect air seal so that no humid air can bypass the insulation and touch the cold roof. Otherwise you'll still get condensation on the underside of the roof, but it will drip onto the insulation, negating its insulating power and maybe rotting the wooden structure (ain't wood great?).

Typically spray foam is used for this, to ensure the necessary perfect air seal. Unfortunately, because your roof has no sheathing, you would need to spray foam right under your exposed roof, meaning the foam would stick to the metal panels and make future maintenance or replacement a nightmare. This will work, it's just that it will create problems for anybody who needs to replace panels in the future.

Here's an alternative if you're willing to remove the metal roof and increase the height of the roofing by a few inches:

Remove the metal roof
Install plywood as roof decking over where the roofing used to be
Install 4-6" of inexpensive foam boards above the plywood, with any foil-faced sides facing up
Install standard roofing underlayment over that
Fasten them down with 2x4 purlins
Re-install the metal roofing over the purlins
Insulate between the rafters on the inside with fiberglass or mineral wool batts


Quikrete didn't absorb much water. What did I do wrong? I am installing a hammock support post to support one end of a hammock. Following the manufacturers instructions, I dug a hole 18" in diameter to about 25" deep. Our soil is red clay, if that matters, and it hasn't rained recently.

I put about 2 inches of gravel in the bottom, placed the post in the hole, then poured 4 red bags (50 lbs each) of dry quikrete around the post. The instructions say to use about 1 gallon of water per bag, but when I poured the first gallon into the hole, it drained very slowly. I added a second gallon and the water pooled there for a long time. I eventually went in for the night. This morning I checked on it and the water is gone but the top 1/2" of cement is very soft — I think some particles were floating in the pooled water and didn't cure.

Did I mess up the process? I'm worried that I only used about half of the water called for and even that seemed liked too much liquid to absorb quickly. Is there any chance that 2 gallons would be enough to cure 200 lbs of Quikrete?

Bagged concrete dumped in hole dry can work but is not ideal. With a clay base the hole is like a pipe. Adding water to the top the mixture will absorb water a few inches down then create a seal. It may be possible to get the mixture wet by heavily soaking the area for a week or more. Moving the post may allow water to penetrate deeper at the cost of creating clumps around the post not the solid mass you want. Winter rains and the higher ground water water level may help. If you would like to use your hammock next week pull the post clean out the hole knock the clumps off the wood and put the post back in the hole. Now there are 2 options. Mix the fresh bag's of quickcrete in a wheelbarrow and fill the hole or put some water in the hole add quickcrete , water more quickcrete water... You get the idea two much water will make it weak but stronger than the original no water in the hole mix.


Should I texturize my ceiling after removing popcorn? I'm going to remove the popcorn ceiling in my 90's era house and was wondering if I should texturize after removing it.  The walls have the "orange peel" type of texture on them but I just don't know if it would be best to have everything match or if a primered/painted ceiling would be OK with texturized walls.

I would leave it flat. That's the whole idea of scraping off popcorn. In almost ever home remodel show, they want to remove the popcorn.


How to fill gap between brick and drywall? Where my ceiling drywall meets a brick wall there is a gap.
This is smaller at the brick itself (maybe 3/16") and then larger where the mortar is struck.

This seems too large to fill with caulking... what about using drywall compound?

EDIT: I should clarify that I have access to both sides of this gap, from the attic. In case that makes a difference.

If you want to fill a large gap with caulk, the first thing you do is fill the gap with a caulk "backer rod" that's made of foam. They come in various diameters are are typically found near the weather stripping in a home improvement store. You shove the backer in with a putty knife (not too deep, just enough to be below the surface), and then cover with caulk.


Can a standard outlet be protected by a GFCI outlet? Kitchen sink:
on one side is a Gfi outlet, the other has a non gfi outlet. Both are wet areas, but through some kind of technical wiring, both outlets are protected by the single GFI unit and therefor meet code. Possible/true?

Guest bath and Master bath:
Guest bath has GFI outlet next to sink, Master bath has non gfi outlet next to its sink. Again,both outlets are protected by the single GFI unit and therefor meet code. Possible/true?

Absolutely possible, if done correctly.
First, the simple test

Make sure (nightlights or any other small devices) that both receptacles work (i.e., GFCI and regular in kitchen; or GFCI and regular in bathroom)
Press the TEST button.
Verify that BOTH receptacles have lost power.

If only the GFCI receptacle loses power then either the regular receptacle is not wired to the GFCI correctly, or it is on a different circuit altogether. In both of these locations, it is important that all receptacles be GFCI protected, so this is an important thing to test (and to fix if needed).
How it works
A typical GFCI receptacle includes two sets of screw terminals. One is labeled LINE and the other is labeled LOAD. The LINE side is connected to the incoming hot & neutral wires. The LOAD side is connected to any downstream protected receptacles. The GFCI electronics detect any imbalance on the attached receptacle and on anything connected using the LOAD terminals.
What if it doesn't work?
If the regular receptacle doesn't turn off when the GFCI is tested then there is a small possibility that the GFCI is defective. But far more likely is that the regular receptacle is connected on the LINE side instead of the LOAD side. That may be double wires on screws (allowed in some cases, depending on design of the receptacle) or by connecting incoming hot, GFCI LINE hot and a third wire to the regular receptacle together, and the same connection with the neutral wires as well. If that's the case, you just need to move the wires going to the regular receptacles over to the LOAD side of the GFCI receptacle.


Can you install an LED floodlight in a regular ceiling fan? I'm considering buying this 9 Watt BR30 reflector LED bulb to replace a 60W incandescent bulb on a ceiling fan:

The ceiling fan actually has 4 lights (I only need one of the lights so the other 3 have burned out bulbs).

Will it work? Also, the "light fixture socket" has a "cover" around it, do LED bulbs heat a lot?

All lamps have a size designation which is stated in eights of an inch (1/8").

That particular lamp will most likely not fit in your fixture if it is designed to take a standard A-lamp. That is an R30 size lamp which is 3-3/4" wide. An R20 style lamp (2-1/2" wide) would be more in line size wise with an A-lamp, which is actually an A-19.


Can vermin come in through your toilet or shower drain and, if so, what can you do about it? First, I'm not sure that this is what's happening but I suspect this is the problem.  On occasion my wife and I find cockroaches in our house.  This isn't very frequent (I'll find one once every few months) and we also have an exterminator who comes and sprays once every month.

However these random cockroaches tend to always be found near or in our bathrooms and, to my recollection, we've never found one in our kitchen or dining room - places where vermin could most certainly find food.

I've heard that if you lose water on your sewer line, vermin can come in through the sewers.  Is this true?  If so, what can I do about it?  I also suspect that this may be happening because there have been a few cases where on the back end of our house (near a spare bathroom that is infrequently used) we will get a sewage smell.  The smell is quite rare, and we've checked for leaks around the toilet, yet we can't find any problem with the toilet itself.

Are we losing pressure on the sewage line, which is suctioning the water from the toilet bowl and allowing vermin into our home?

If this is the case, this is super-nasty.  Please advise.

The smell of sewage is definitely a bad sign and means that either a trap has gone dry or a connection somewhere is bad releasing sewer gasses.  Maybe this is related to the vermin, maybe not, but its definitely something that needs a resolution.

When checking traps, check:

Are all your toilets full of water?
Do you have any sinks or fixtures that are very infrequently used (eg: basement laundry sink)?
Do you have drain and trap in your basement floor? Does it have water in it? Is there a trap primer hooked up to it (this is a small pipe that is connected to a frequently used fixtured so that when you run the fixture, a small amount of water flows into the trap and keeps it full)

Other things to check:

Do you have a sewer clean-out inside your house? If so, is the cap done up tightly? Also check the gasket on it - they can dry up and start leaking sewer gasses due to the poor seal.
Bottom of toilets - flush each one a couple times and look for small amounts of water near the base. This would indicate a failed wax ring.  Make sure to flush a number of times because if the leak is very small, it might not be noticable after a single flush.
Vents on roof - are any drain vents near air intakes (sucking the sewer gasses back in to your house)
Signs of a sewer line blockage - gurgling sinks, slow draining fixtures, sewage coming out of the lowest drain in your house (often the floor drain in your lowest level)

I had a situation in my house where one of the connections in the clay sewer had sunk by an inch or so.  This would cause stuff like toilet paper to start collecting resulting in a partial blockage. Overtime, it would get more blocked until finally the pressure of the water combined with atmospheric pressure would cause it to push through. During this process, it would suck all of the water out of my basement floor trap and I'd go from a full trap to a completely empty trap very suddenly.  Another interesting thing here was that when running a camera through my sewer, I noticed spider webs in them, so that definitely seems to indicate that some critters might come up from the actual sewer itself.

Ultimately my point here is that it can be a lot of things and if you can't find the cause on your own it is advisable to call a plumber - the sewer gasses are not something you want to be breathing in all day.


Above Ground Pool - Pinhole Leaks Hopefully this is okay to ask here -

I stored my pool for the winter last year and have just got it out and filled up about halfway (3,000 of 6,000 gallons).

I have found 3 pinhole leaks as I have been walking around the pool every few hours as the water level increases.
I have since patched these and the water has stopped.

Let's just say I hadn't discovered this as its so slow to escape.
Can something like this just tear if people are in the pool playing or am I over thinking this based on the size of it?

I am probably going to retire the pool after this season but so far, this appears to be the only noticeable issues.

Just not sure what 6,000 gallons of water can do on a hole like this.
Patches seem to be a common thing so I assume they are meant to help solve problems like this.

Just looking for some reassurance I suppose.

First of all- Good on you for patching it rather than dumping it in the landfill!

I had the same pool problem last summer, several pin hole leaks.  What is cool is you can patch them underwater with the patch kit.  (I recommend applying the patches on the water side.)  The real tough ones are holes on the bottom of the pool.  They aren't easy to find without goggles and slowly crawling along the bottom of the pool.  I only found mine when a tiny piece of dirt was being sucked into the leak.

As for an answer, your sides will no suddenly tear because the material on the side is rip stop. (nylon threads embedded in the vinyl).


No neutral in metal switch box for three-way switches in an older 1930's home This is a 1936 home in Virginia with BX wiring and metal switch and outlet boxes.  We went to replace original three-way light switches located at the top and the bottom of the stairs controlling a hall light and found that the neutral wire from switch at the bottom of the stairs is connected to the metal box at the top of the stairs.  There is no other neutral in the box at the top of the stairs to connect it to otherwise.  With the new switch, connecting it to the metal box is only way to make it work.  Is that o.k.?  It seems to have worked for 80 years.

No, you cannot bootleg neutral from the very rickety ground BX provides.
It worked for 80 years because normal switches don't need neutral.   You are introducing a new wrinkle: a smart switch that does.  Here is how classical 3-way circuits work.  Remember current flows in loops, and the route may differ, certainly as will the color codes.

Note that neither 3-way switch uses neutral, and the "remote" 3-way doesn't even have neutral anywhere near. Remember: installers are stuck with the colors that cables are manufactured with, so white wires may not be be neutral.  Travelers are the ones that land on brass screws, they can be any color. I prefer to mark wires with colored tape to indicate their actual function, but apparently, I'm weird.
The problem is you want to put the smart switch somewhere it can't go.  You need to rethink.
Generally, you handle this by carefully selecting a smart-switch master that goes at the switch location that does have a neutral. Then you either accept a plain switch at the remote location, or use a matching smart switch "remote".  In the latter case, you re-task the 3 wires to be whatever you need for the remote to work.


removing glue from felt pads on chair legs I am trying to remove old glue from chair felt pads.  I have tried GooGone, sanding and paint thinner.  Does anyone have a remedy for this problem?

If the glue is still tacky at all (or ever was), Laquer Thinner or "Goof Off" may be a good solvent.  If the glue is a hard type glue such as Elmer's or a Wood glue, your best bet is to try to chip off as much as possible with a sharp pocket knife. Then a block sander or electric sander may work OK for the rest.  Or if you have access to a flat bastard file ($4.99 or so at Sears Hardware or Home Depot, Lowe's, etc..), then you can really put some muscle into it.


Wiring a compressor to an external building I have run 2,2,2,4 in conduit underground to a 100amp box. In the house the ground an neutral are bonded together but in the shed they are separated(isolated). I'm connecting a compressor through a disconnect box which only has L1, L2 and ground do I need a different box? Can the ground and neutrals be connected together like in the house? BTW the compressor is a 60 gallon 5HP 240V unit. I wanted a disconnect box so I can use a waterproof wip to the compressor.

You can install an isolated neutral buss in the box connect the neutrals to this buss and the grounding conductors to the one that connects to the box case and you will be good to go. Most home stores and electrical supply stores have these isolated busses usually less than 10$ for a small one like you need, make sure if your box has 20 breaker openings to get a buss with close to that many holes, your 240v compressor may not require a neutral and most pumps, or other 240v only devices don't need a neutral.


How to differentiate neutral or ground bar? This is the main panel, the green neutral bonding screw is there. How to differentiate the neutral and ground bars? In this case, does it matter which one I use as ground or neutral for the interlock kit installation?

This is wired as a main panel (not a sub-panel), so they are effectively the same.  Best practice is to wire grounds and neutrals separated in case this panel ever needs to become a sub-panel, but what you've got here now is a typical main panel where the neutrals and grounds are intermixed.


Wiring basic LED light to former ceiling fan box...too many wires? Trying to replace a ceiling fan with a basic LED light that has black-white-green wires but I'm seeing so many wires in my box. What I do know is that the black to the left is ALWAYS hot, regardless of the light switch. The 3 wires to the right (black-white-bare) don't seem to power my LED light when I connect them solely to the light. I don't know what the white in the middle is for. All I'm trying to do is get the light switch to power the light...oh, and not kill myself in the process. Any ideas?

Switch loops and you

The switch for your light was configured as an old style switch loop where the black wire is the always hot going out to the switch and the white wire is the switched hot coming back from the switch.  This was quite common before recent Code revisions mandated neutrals at most switch boxes in new construction (in order to power dimmers, timers, and other "smart switch" type gizmos).

Anyway, what you'll need to do is mark the single white wire in the light box and the white wire in the switch box with a few wraps of black electrical tape, then wire the single black wire from the wall cable to the black pigtail.  From there, you can connect the white wire on the fixture to the white pigtail, the black wire on the fixture to the taped white wire, and the green wire on the fixture to the bundle of bare wires, which should be redone using a proper wirenut anyway.  Button it all up, turn the breaker on, and enjoy your new light!


Can armored bx cable come into contact with other metal objects? I am running armored 12/2 bx to wire 4 high hats, the armored cable is grounded. There is a heating duct which I must go over, but the AC will come in contact with it... Is this ok or do I need to avoid having it make contact?

Armored cable is meant to resist damage to the conductors from contact with other materials (like a duct). The armor itself is grounded when properly installed, and touching other metal should pose no risk (assuming the armor is not so bent or compressed as to expose the conductors).


Moving a telephone jack and wiring it Our telephone jack in the kitchen is positioned for a wall mounted phone, and I want to move it to near the countertop where the home phone sits.

This is the wiring when I remove the cover. To me it's a lot of disconnected wires and the 5 connected that don't match any diagram I can find. (blue, red, green, blue/white and yellow)

Assuming the wire comes up to this jack and I can move the wire lower do I just copy the wiring here? Can I find a jack with 5 connections? I'm only familiar with 4 connections.

Thanks]1

EDIT: I can trace the wire in the basement back to this junction of all the telephone wires that just dangles above the breaker box. The wire in question is the gray on on the top of the bundle. Maybe it's time I clean this up and install some kind of central hub where they all meet? (our house is being rewired which is what brought moving the jack on, before I repaint the wall after patching it. It's also why there's no cover on the breaker box right now.)

Key question is: How many phone lines do you have?

If you have one phone line then you only need 2 wires - one pair. This will normally be red & green on the jack and a colored pair of wires from the wall.

If you have two phone lines then you need 4 wires - two pairs. This will normally be red & green on the jack for one line, black & yellow on the jack for the second line and two colored pairs from the wall.

With normal phone service (POTS), you can have the wires in a pair reversed without a problem. However, you need to make sure the pairs themselves are not mixed up.

You can reuse the existing wall jack. But I highly recommend getting a new jack like Leviton 40249-W Standard Telephone Wall Jack, 6P4C, Screw Terminals, White. With a new jack that uses screw terminals you will not need any special tools to connect the wires - just strip the ends and screw in place. A wall jack will require either an electrical box or a box eliminator (a metal or plastic "frame" that is the same size height/width as a box but no depth - just cut a rectangle and stick it in) or use a Surface Mount Jack instead.

So all you really need to figure out is 1 line or 2 and which pairs of wires from the wall go to line 1 and (if you have 2 lines) line 2.

I am assuming your VOIP is some sort of magic box (e.g., Magicjack, Vonage, etc.) that lets you connect regular phones to a VOIP line. If that is not the case then none of this wiring makes sense. With one line (no matter how many phones) you only use 2 wires (red & green) of the standard 4-wire configuration. You just need to figure out (hard for me to tell from the picture) which pair of wires connects to the red & green on the inner part of the existing jack. That pair should be connected to red & green of a new jack, screw terminals recommended. (FYI, the existing jack needs a punch tool to do it right, which phone & network installers have but the average DIY does not).

Don't worry about the mess in the basement. If/when you fix it up, if you use the same cable to this location then you won't have to change anything on this end, just in the basement.


deadbolt pins fell out when i try to take my broken key out my key broke off in the deadbolt and I had to take it apart to get the key out but the pens in the springs fell out the lock how do I put them back in which order Do they go in

This little picture shows how you have to get the pins installed so that the key will allow the lock cylinder to rotate properly.


Wiring a dimmer and timer side by side I'm trying to replace old dimmer and timer (sitting side by side) with new Leviton dimmer and Lutron timer, however the box got me confused as it appears all neutral white wires are tied together in one nut and are not attached to anything - please see picture. There are also white wires coming out of top and bottom on the left switch..How do i go about connecting the dimmer and timer? Dimmer has ground (green), red and black. Timer has red, ground, white and black wires.

On the left dimmer - I tried to connect red wire from new dimmer to red and black from the box (circled top left on the pic in red/black).

I also connected black wire from the box (circled in black) to black wire on the new dimmer.

On the timer on the right - I connected black wire from box (circled in black) to the white wire
on the new timer and then I connected black wire (circled on the bottom left in black) to the black wire on the new timer.

I also connected red  wire from new timer to red wire on the dimmer switch on the left as there is no red wire coming out of the box on the right for some reason.

Grounding wires (green) both are connected to each of the box's screws - on the left and right of the pic.

When I made connections, i lost some power in nearby locations i.e. bathroom and some kitchen outlets.

It appears like you wired your neutral wire on the leviton switch to your hot or load wire in the box. The white wire on the leviton switch is a neutral.

Smart light switches like leviton switches require a neutral wire to operate to provide power to the timer chip constantly. The white wire on the switch should be wired to the white neutral wire in the box. Non smart light switches didn't require a neutral that's why they are just tied together in the back of the box.

Connecting the hot or load wire to the neutral wire as you have done with light switch on the right can be dangerous as that is not how the switch is designed to operate. If you're uncertain of the wiring it's probably not a bad idea to get an electrician or a friend that's familiar with electrical to help you out. That being said you can fix the issue.

I would recommend replacing both of your switches with Lutron Caseta switches which would allow you dimming control, allow you to remotely set a schedule or timer from your phone and would be less confusing to install.

Without an existing picture of how the orginal light switches were wired it's hard to diagnose which wire is the hot and which one is your load wire (the one that goes to the light fixture)

The advantage of the lutron caseta light switches is that they don't require a neutral wire and they wire up just like your old switches and if you wire the hot and load wire backwards it won't matter. Which makes them easier to install.

So on the left you would wire the new lutron switch with the red wire and black wire. On the right you would wire the two black wires to the new switch. And both new light switches should have their grounds properly terminated which it looks like you have done in the original installation.

I found this smart light switch installation guide: helpful with videos that show you how to install the lutron caseta style light switches with no neutral.

Disclaimer: I don't work for lutron but in this situation I think it's good solution for a DIY fix to the current wiring situation with the information provided. See comments below for more details.


Winter damper setting for humidifiers Problem: My brother has a drum humidifier on his furnace and is quite satisfied with it, so I installed one on my furnace this fall. He claims it is a good idea to partially close the damper for winter operation - he says, "if the damper is open all the way, the furnace has to run longer to heat the house because so much hot air is being sent into the cold air duct." I don't know if I agree with him, but perhaps I don't understand what he is driving at. All the information and instructions I can find only talk about "open" and "closed" positions.
Question: Can anyone comment about partially closing dampers for humidifier operation for winter?

The damper should be wide open since the wall or duct mounted humidistat (that should have been installed) controls the operation of the humidifier and how much humidity is introduced into the living space. You are right not to agree with your brother since he is not correct. If you have A/C then you close the damper in the summer, otherwise leave it open.
Don't forget that most drum type humidifiers need cleaned at least once a year. I have a drum humidifier and soak the media pad in a bucket filled with vinegar and clean the reservoir pan as well. My humidifier also has a drain to flush the reservoir numerous times during the winter.


Attic was built to be living space in 1945, but are the trusses strong enough to keep doing so? I have a Cape Cod style house that was built in 1945 with an attic as a living space.  The trusses are 2x6, 16" apart, and don't span more than 15' across.  Do I need to reinforce these trusses or should they continue to hold up?  If so, how should I reinforce them?

Unless you are putting unusual loads up there (king size waterbed, full kitchen, concrete sculptures), normal bedroom/living room furniture and a couple of people should still be fine.

Ceiling cracks in the lower level will be the first indication of undue stress.


How to lock black-pipe connections? I'm having some fun playing around with a furniture project where I'm using some black pipe as the legs. Things are working out fairly well (well, I think so, even though my wife thinks it's ridiculous...I guess this is going in my office...)

The one snag is that while I have all the joints tight as can be without stripping, I had to back off a quarter turn or so on some of them to get things aligned. These connections aren't as rigid as I'd like and with some pressure, it's easy to turn it given the leverage enabled by the design.

Is there good way to 'lock' the joint in the position I want short of spot welding? Would a few drops of superglue down the connection do it? Should I solder it? another product?

There's adhesives available from a company called Loctite, that come in different formulas. From temporary stick, all the way up to welded forever.

With black pipe, I would clean the threads really well to remove cutting-fluid used by the factory. I've gotten Loctite before at car parts stores, and the old farts there will give you a good recommendation on which flavor to use.  Alternatively, you could use JB Weld, which again will require the surfaces to be cleaned thoroughly, but unlike most Loctite formulas will become effectively glued forever.. Good Luck!


Wood around stove pipe I am thinking about closing the hole that you see on the picture below using wood. The metal sheet will be screwed onto the wood "frame" that I would be building. Is it safe to use wood? The stove pipe never gets too hot, I can touch it with my bare hands but I'm still a little bit concerned.

The wood won't touch the pipe, only the metal sheet will.

Depends on what the manufacturers specifications say.

For the particular doublewall insulated chimney (not "stovepipe" which is singlewall) I last had to work with, clearance to combustables was 2" from the pipe wall. The deformations at the joint appear to be consistent with what you have being double or triple wall insulated chimney, not stovepipe.

Stovepipe (singlewall) typically needs at least 18" clearance to combustibles, as it may get red-hot in the event of an excessive fire in the stove, or a chimney fire in the pipe.

Since the part shown is intended for framing support it's typically safe to have wood where the sheet screws in for support.

But the manufacturers specs (for the exact pipe and accessories you are actually working with) is what rules. You can almost certainly find out who that is by carefully examining the pipes (the info will be stamped into every piece, in my experience.) Then you should be able to look up the installation manual for the pipe and support piece.


Monitor blacks out when fridge turns on - bad power supply? Surge protection? My PC monitor often turns off/blacks out for a second when the fridge starts up. It is on the same circuit as the fridge, so I assume this is due to the sudden draw from the fridge causing noise or a drop in the AC circuit.

No other appliances are noticeably affected, and I have no reason to suspect bad wiring in the apartment.

I'm wondering if the power supply board in the monitor is wearing out, and it can't deal with the (normal?) noise in the AC caused by the fridge start up.

I disassembled the monitor to inspect the power board but found no signs of damage or failure - capacitors are fine, no damaged traces etc.

Is this a problem with the monitor? Is it worth replacing the power board anyway? Would using a surge protector help at all?

Thanks!

Replies (as I can't comment):

@DarthCaniac: it's a standard single-door fridge-freezer, plugged into a dedicated socket on a normal UK ring main. UK ring mains are typically rated for 30A total, with normal household sockets rated for 13A each. There are no other high-power appliances running on the sockets ring main. I can't move the fridge or monitor to a different circuit, because there is only one ring main for the sockets (lights, cooker, boiler etc. are of course on their own circuits, though).

@longneck: Flat panel LED monitor. The fridge and wiring are no older than about 6 years - the apartment is a new build, and I have no reason to suspect bad wiring.

Pretty clearly the sudden draw from starting the fridge's compressor is pulling down the line enough to cause the monitor to hiccup. The question is what to do about it. Some suggestions:

Buy a new monitor (they're getting cheaper all the time)
Get a line voltage stabilizer (e.g. APC's Line-R 300VA, although that one is 120VAC)
Admire the fact that you have a very nice "Refrigerator Just Turned On" sensing system


is there such a thing as a 120V XENON G6.35 bulb We have a light fixture in the bathroom which takes 120V G6.35 halogen pin-style bulbs. Is there a XENON bulb in 120V in this size, and would it be compatible?

My apologies, but I must revise my original answer.

There are "xenon" bulbs that are actually halogen bulbs filled with xenon gas. But what many consider to be a xenon bulb is an HID bulb filled with xenon. You must have a ballast associated with an HID light (halogens are not HID, there are no ballasts).

I cannot find a 120V xenon halogens with a G6.35 base, either. I do see several 12V and 24V xenon halogen bulbs (OSRAM HLX); but otherwise, 120V xenon halogens have G8 bases (I don't think that OSRAM even has a G8 base; OSRAM does has a G8.5 base).

Since a xenon halogen bulb is generally lower wattage and has a lower operating temperature than halogen, you could probably retrofit the halogen lamp (if you absolutely love or need the lamp housing and are willing to go the extra mile to convert it to xenon) without needing to worry about the housing burning up. In such a case, I would recommend ordering a G8 base to retrofit your halogen lamp housing (but definitely make sure the xenon bulb that you purchase has a lower wattage than your current halogen, just to be safe). Also you need to make sure the G8 base can fit into your lamp housing, and that you are able to swap bases in your lamp housing. You should probably write a note inside the cover of the lamp regarding the change, including what was taken out... or better yet the actual specifications.

I also wonder about the alternative possibility of adding a transformer to convert 120V to 24V. Again you would need to pay attention to the wattage, especially with respect to an added transformer. For example, OSRAMS EHJ 64655 HLX bulb is a 10,000 lumen, 250 watt (10.4? amps x 24 V) bulb that might leave you blind and start a fire.

The real deal with halogen (incandescent bulbs) is that 99% of the gas is either argon, xenon, or krypton or a blend; and only 1% is actually halogen (usually iodine). The effect of using 99% xenon instead of argon is a minor improvement to the quality. In this case however, xenon is a little better than krypton or argon. Sometimes the manufacturer will use xenon and not even bother mentioning it (except in the technical data sheets like OSRAM's - Xenophot® technology (HLX)), while other manufacturers will outright claim that they have a xenon bulb (and paint it blue, and increase the cost- it's sales pitch).

On the other hand, it is also fair to admit that a xenon HID bulb is actually just a metal halide usually (mercury) in xenon gas.


Tempstar 2 stage furnace restarting every 7 minutes - not going into high I have a tempstar 9MPT model based furnace. Also sold under a number of other brands - comfort air, etc. It is a two stage heating with a PSC motor high efficiency furnace.  After about 7 minutes of running, instead of cycling to high fan speed and BTU output, it restarts going through the pre-blower cycle before re-engaging the blower.

Any idea where to start troubleshooting this?

I blew out (by mouth) the rubber line coming back from the low pressure vacuum switch back to furnace near the drain. It initially had some resistance but then cleared. Everything worked fine after that.


pipe leakage in the sink I have this sink in my laundry room, and it started water-leaking a few days ago.

After checking it seemed to me that the joint part between the sink hole and the pipe was a gasket, which was supposed to be air-tight sealed but failed to hold up - water didn't flow down the pipeline, it oozed out from surrounding area of the joint.

I took down the pipe and noticed it says: "c4 CRN tubular f409 1-1/2". I looked up online but didn't find the replacement of the gasket for this pipe.

Do you agree with my diagnosis? Can anyone know where I can find a gasket
replacement for this type of pipe?

The pipe, the gasket and the sink hole are like below:

Thanks to suggestions from noybman and Kris. You are absolutely right. I bought the sink drain kits and putty from Lowe's and installed it, that fixed the problem.


Can you use Danish Oil after using linseed oil? I've fitted my kitchen with beech worktops and I was recommended to use boiled linseed oil. Now I have read that Danish oil is the preferred oil for kitchen use, and it dries quicker.
The linseed oil has given the wood the colour I wanted so it would be a shame to sand it back, so, can I use Danish oil on top if the first few coats of linseed?

Yes, by all means. You might want to test a spot (not for "will it work" - it will - but for any possible color issues.)

As for what you have read, consider it an opinion, nothing more - if you like what you have, boiled linseed is just fine. Apart from some potential risk to tree nut allergy sufferers, walnut oil also works nicely and is a drying oil. Pretty much all the oils can be recoated and/or coated over one another with little issue if the previous coat is dry/cured.


Bathroom Light Fixture: What is this? And where can I get a replacement? This is from a bathroom light fixture and covers one of the lights. I'm looking for two of these matching orbs to replace a broken one. It has a twist-and-lock system around the neck (Big box hardware stores don't have this). I can't seem to find the right Google search terms to find anything that will work. So...

Measures 5" tall including neck. Neck is 2.5" diameter inside-to-inside edge. Max diameter is about 5.5".

What is this? Where can I get another one?

OR

Do I need to replace the full light fixture if I want orb covers?

There's no standard for this type of twist'n'lock and no reason for manufacturers to adopt one, so your best bet is to find a brand name or a label somewhere, probably hidden inside the part of the fixture that is mounted the wall.

IKEA has a similar fixture but it is unlikely to be compatible. Still useful if you want to change both.

Make sure you follow code and pick the proper fixture for your bathroom. Check if there is an Earth wire coming out of the wall before you buy the light! If there is no Earth you need a light that does not require Earth (Class II). Here the fixture type depends on distance from bathtub/shower.

Note this type of closed splash-proof bathroom fixture has no airflow which tends to cook LED bulbs and reduce their life if left on continuously. Shouldn't be a problem in a bathroom though, it isn't supposed to stay lit 24/7.


How can I repair a desk with crumbled chip board where the cam bolt holes should be? I have an old desk which must have been held together mostly by strength of will, since when we disassembled it for a move, we found that all of the cam bolts were sat in crumbled holes in the chip board.

I kept all of the bolts, hoping to refit them, but few of the holes have enough strength to take the bolts being screwed back into them.

I have been trying to think of ways to resurrect this desk, and so far have come up with several options.

Fit the bolts back into their original positions using glue or epoxy resin to fill in the missing chipboard.

I have no idea what sort of glue/resin would be suitable or whether it would be strong enough.

If I go for this option, what do I need to look for in a glue/epoxy?

Drill out new holes for the cam bolts.

It looks like I would have to be very careful to get the position correct, and then be very careful to drill the holes perfectly square.

Replace the cam bolts with furniture bolts and barrel nuts.

This will mean unsightly bolt heads on the desk sides and worktop.

Just glue the desk back together.

This would mean that I wouldn't be able to take it apart again, so was discounted as an option.

These are all of the options I can see for the moment, but are there any other options I should consider?

Dig out the bad/loose stuff. Fill with an epoxy based filler (such as Bondo). Redrill the holes. Reinsert the cam bolts.

Product references are for illustration only and not an endorsement


Should I use 1/2" or 3/4" fixtures for a new shower? I am having a new shower built along with a new bathroom altogether...

I selected Grohe hardware and wanted to know if I should go with the 1/2" or 3/4" since I will have a rain shower, hand held unit, and 4 jets.

Will I be able to have the plumber hook everything up with the existing 1/2" pipe or do I need to upgrade to 3/4"?

I would upgrade to the 3/4" pipe.  With as many fixtures as you have, you won't have good water pressure with more than one of them on at a time.


What is the proper way to dispose of used hydrochloric acid? What is the proper way to dispose of used hydrochloric acid (e.g. Sureklean 600)?  My municipal waste station does take toxic waste periodically but I was wondering if it can be safely flushed down the toilet.  It is very corrosive to metal and I know there is cast iron sewer pipe below the basement leaving the house to the street.  Also, is it safe to flush it from the environmental standpoint?

HCl can be combined with baking soda to form salt water and CO2.

NaHCO3 + HCl = NaCl + H2O + CO2

NOTE this is exothermic and effervescent, mix slowly, adding the soda to the acid. In a wide-mouth container.


Do I have one or two 24V transformers in HVAC control circuit I have two old thermostats (one for heating, the other for cooling) that I would like to replace with a single Nest E unit. I have central air and gas heating.

Cooling thermostat has the following connections:
R (Rh and Rc are jumped) G and Y

Heating thermostat has these connections:
R (Rh and Rc are jumped) and W

Combining these two into a single unit like Nest E seems simple - Nest has G W Y and R connections, HOWEVER - there is only a single R connection and from these two thermostats I have two R wires.

My question is 1) Do I have two transformers and therefore I need a unit that can support two transformers with separate Rh and Rc connections? Is there any way for me to check if my HVAC system is running from a single or two transformers?  2) If I do have a single transformer (again, how to confirm this) - can I connect just one of the two red wires and cap the other one off?

Thanks for any advice!

If you have forced air A/C and radiant heat, you almost certainly have two separate transformers.  So you'll have to use a thermostat that can work with separate transformers.
If the thermostat you choose requires a C wire, you'll likely want to supply the C from the A/C transformer. It's almost always easier to get the C wire from a forced air system, than from a boiler. Also, some thermostats actually require that the C wire come from the cooling system.
Once you've selected the thermostat you want, connect the wires as follows:

Remove any jumpers between Rc and Rh.
R from the A/C to Rc.
Y from the A/C to Y.
G from the A/C to G.
C from the A/C to C. (Where required)
R from the boiler to Rh.
W from the boiler to W.

Extra reading
With two separate transformers, the wiring should look something like this.

Notice there's no jumper between Rh and Rc.
The green line represents the equipment grounding in the building.
In this situation, everything works as expected.
If you have two separate transformers, but only connect one of the R wires.  You could still have a complete circuit, if the transformers secondaries are bonded.  However, since you're using the buildings grounding system to complete the circuit, you may find that there's not enough power to get things to work properly.  You might find that the A/C works fine, but the heat doesn't (or vise versa, depending on how it's wired).

Two separate transformers, with only one supplying the thermostat.
Notice there's a jumper between Rh and Rc.
If you have one transformer that is supplying two R wires. It's the same as having one transformer, and using a jumper to connect Rh and Rc. It's just a really long jumper.

If you have two transformers, and you connect a jumper between Rh and Rc. You'd be connecting the transformers in parallel. If the transformers are identical (or close enough), this may not be a problem. As long as the transformers are in phase (and identical), everything should be at the same voltage potential.  If the transformers are not in phase (or not identical), you'd be creating a short-circuit.

If you have two R wires at the thermostat. The best bet is to remove the jumper between Rh and Rc, and connect the separate wires to separate R terminals.