How can I determine what is wrong with my lighting circuit? I have a situation where I have a circuit which includes;

Front outside door lights,
Hall lights
Closet light
2 ceiling recessed lights

They all go dead, then a few days later work again. I checked the breakers, and nothing has set it off. Went to each outlet and switch to check for good connections, all good. Tested with a light tester I got a positive test when touching a lead wire, but had to touch box to get it to light and am getting 120 volts from volt meter. Do I have an open circuit and if so how can I pinpoint it with a volt meter?

Sounds like you have a break in a wire or a corroded terminal somewhere. Usually, breaks and corrosion happen where the wire connects to things, and not in the walls.

So first thing to do is to take each device off (switch, outlet, light) and inspect the wire that you can see for break. Inspect the device, too, especially outlets with back-stab connections. While you have the outlets out, switch from back-stab to screw terminals.

If you can't find the problem there, it's time to call a professional. Intermittent connections like this can be dangerous because broken wires and the like can cause arcing, heating, and fires.


Unused Chimney Flues I have a chimney with three flues (exterior chimney on a one story house).  One is for a wood burning fireplace we do use.  The other two were for the furnace and water heater but are both no longer in use (no metal liners, just clay).  I sealed them at the bottom in the basement (fire-rated spray foam and then plywood over the round hole).  Assuming the tops should be dealt with, should I break up the clay liner to just below the concrete cap and then redo the concrete cap to cover over the holes (looking like they were never there)?  If that is the case, how could I 'fill' the holes a few inches down so that the concrete filling them a few inches down inside doesn't fall all the way to the bottom?

Allow for the possibility that you or the next owner might want to use them again, and try closing them off "less destructively" - metal flashing as @bib suggests, or my personal favorite for this job, a glazed ceramic tile mortared onto the top of the flue. Stays put, sheds water, can be knocked free in the future if there's ever a need for it.


Is there a functional/performance difference between standard and self adhesive mesh drywall tape? Its all in the title but I am preparing to do some drywall work and I plan to use a self adhesive mesh tape for the job as I have always had trouble getting standard tape to work (just don't do it often enough).

Are there any performance differences that would make this a bad idea or are they pretty equivalent?

paper tape:

stronger, less likely to crack
easier for inside corners because you can crease/fold it
easy to cover with first mud coat, lays nice and flat
must be bedded in initial layer of mud

mesh tape:

have seen cracks over time
drywall knife seems to catch on it easily, pulls it
easy to lay down without bedding in mud

Just my opinions formed over years of experience, others will have their own.


Do i need special ball valve for hot water heating system? Is WOG rating ok? I am installing zone valves but want to isolate each loop with ball valves. can I use regular plumbing ball valves for this. Max temp would be 180 F.

You're fine
Ordinary WOG (water, oil, gas) rated, metal-bodied ball valves are going to be rated for hydronic temperatures and beyond; if you want to make extra sure, you can check the specifications of the valve you're looking at for a WSP (Working Steam Pressure) rating, which a typical ball valve (using the Watts LFFBV as an example) will have as well.  (Obviously, a plastic-bodied valve is going to have a much lower working temperature rating, and no WSP rating for that matter.)


Calculate conductors for box fill I have a 5 gang switch box I'm trying to calculate how many "conductors" I can have in it. Basically my main question is, do wires that originate and terminate inside the box count as +1 each (wires in nuts/splices going to switch)? Or is it only wires that originate outside the box and come into it?

I have a 63in³ (2.75x2.5x9.25) box with 5x standard switches, I'm looking to replace with zwave switches. From my calculations I have (all 14ga):
+12 Hot/Neutral wires coming into the box (2 from breaker panel, 10 feeding the 5 lights)
+1 Ground (6 bare ground coming in/out but only 1 counts for this?)
+1 wire clamps in the box
+10 Devices ( 5 switches, counts as 2 each)
+3 Traveler wires (Do these count?)

So if it's that simple, I need at least a 54in³ and I'm good. But my question is what about the spliced short wires that originate and terminate in the box? So if all 6 of my neutrals (for the 5 switches and 1 live) are bonded together under a wire nut, then I run a neutral from that bond to each of the switches, that's +5 more spliced wires, do they need to get counted? And if I do similar for ground and hot that's another +10. Then I get into more fun dilemmas like max conductors in a wire nut and making splicing chains (my GB reds say only 5x #14).

It's a really ugly layout I wish they had split this up into different boxes, but I want to convert this whole thing so it can be put on my HA system. The current layout of 5x 2-wire switches has a lot less wires in the box so box fill isn't as much of a concern, but considering smart switches need both neutral and ground running to them as well it adds a lot more to that box. It's going to be really cramped with all the splices/wire nuts.

Anything else I'm not considering?

Thanks!

Reading your question, it appears you are familiar with NEC Article 310.14 so lets not get into that. The biggest problem I have ever faced with multiple wire and devices was not meeting the box fill requirements but getting all that stuff into the box and mounted properly. So plan how you are going to splice and connect all of your conductors carefully. Bundle all of the common conductors together, try not to crossover too many conductors and plan to keep your splices in different areas of the box and not interfering with the installation of the devices.

One last thing, these boxes come in different depths, traditionally 1 1/2, 2 1/2 and 3 1/2. If it's not too late you might try to purchase and install the 3 1/2" variety.

Good luck.


How do I identify the hot, neutral wires in a light fixture? I have a hanging light fixture with a "plug-in" cord with a brown and a blue wire that is to be hard wired to house wiring black and white. Is the brown hot and the blue neutral?

go get an LED voltage detector.  They're less than about $20 US, and it'll light up when it gets near the hot.  And won't light up near the neutral...


How to clean a burnt wall socket? I had a dishwasher plugged into the wall. The dishwasher plug has always been a little iffy but we have never had a problem with it before. It shorted while the dishwasher was running and I caught it pretty fast but it scorched the wall a little and obviously the plug.

I pulled the plate to make sure there was no internal scorching etc and everything appears to be in order. I realize I will probably have to replace the cover but the wall plug has a ton of melted rubber on it as well. Will I need to replace that or will scraping it be enough? (after turning off the power obviously)

Is there a better option?

Do not try to clean a scorched receptacle even with the power off; the heat created takes the temper out of the metal and the receptacle would not pass a withdrawal force test, this is important because it measures the contact strength and overheated receptacles need to be replaced not cleaned.

A cheap replacement may be purchased for around 1 dollar, but a quality spec grade receptacle around 4 dollars.

I install hundreds of receptacles and I always purchase back & side spec grade (and even heavy duty industrial for up to 7-8 dollars each).

Why would an electrician spend so much more on parts? They are safer and last longer, yes contractors going in and finish wiring tract houses use the cheap ones in most cases but not all.

Changing a receptacle only takes a few minutes and is a simple skill all homeowners should be able to do:

Take a photo before starting, ask any questions before starting.

Turn the power off at the circuit breaker,
1 or 2 screws removes the cover plate.

2 more screws releases the receptacle, worst case now there are 5 more screws

2 silver screws with white wires, 2 brass screws with black wires and 1 green screw with a bare copper wire.

Swap the receptacle and then put it back in and cover and you are done, turn the breaker on and you have it finished.

Please do it right or get help, it is really not that hard.


Does the humidified air get filtered in a bypass setup In a whole-house bypass-humidifier setup, the humidified air still has to go through the furnace filter.

Doesn't that filter out some of the water vapor?  Especially with the expensive filters that filter a lot of things out.

No. water vapor is a gas - it passes right through, same as oxygen and nitrogen (i.e., air)


How to determine where the cold is coming from? My new home has a door which is very tired and allows cold in some how.

I have tried to work out how the cold is getting in, but it seems to be getting in throughout the entire door.

I was expecting it to be the seal or the letter box, but i can't tell.

How can i check if we need a new door, new seal, or new letter box etc?

Checking first to eliminate gaps hidden behind the doors' trim or molding is the place to begin. Expanding foam or pieces of rolled insulation work well to stop drafts.   If your door is mostly wood (as most are) it could be that the cold outside air is being conducted through the door. Installing an exterior second "storm door" would provide an air space and a thermal break from the frigid exterior air. This should solve any drafts that are allowing cold air to penetrate through to the living space. here is a link to a door door


Need an apparently-discontinued moulding profile; where to look? My wife and I recently bought a house, and one of her highest-priority projects was to strip some rather kitschy wallpaper and repaint the walls in our kitchen. This is nearing completion; however, the wallpapered wall had a paper border strip while all other walls have a crown moulding, so now I need a 16' length of the same stuff to paint and nail in place.

The moulding is not actually crown moulding, technically; it lays flat to the wall, and is used in the same room as both chair rail and baseboard. It would probably also do a fine job as window/door casing, which is, I think, its intended purpose. It's 3.5" tall and 5/8" thick, and has a rather generic profile with a top ridge, a swoop to a belly, then a crease that bows back out to a flat bottom border.

I've been to HD and to Lowe's (the two big-box chains in the area) and neither of them have the profile; there is one that's close, but IMO not close enough. I've looked at several suppliers online, and it seems that the pattern has simply fallen out of style in favor of slightly updated looks that are close, but no cigar.

At this point my father-in-law is saying to either check out a recycling outlet that deals in used/recycled building materials (I don't know of one in the DFW area), or look around for someone who can do custom millwork. Both sound expensive (the recycling outlets deal heavily in vintage stuff like hardwood floors; all I need is paint-quality moulding, to match what was installed less than 30 years ago).

EDIT: The profile I am looking for is on the left. The closest match I can find is on the right. If anyone can find a pattern number or any specific identifying info, I'd much appreciate it.

take a look at this suggestion from ask this old house:

  When none of the offerings at the home
  center or the lumberyards measure up,
  then it's time to go the custom route.
  A millwork shop can make special
  "knives" and turn out an exact
  duplicate of your existing moldings.
  The problem is, you have to pay setup
  fees, which increase the linear-foot
  price significantly and may not be
  cost-effective for a small order like
  yours.

  The way to avoid those charges is to
  make your own profiles using a table
  saw, band saw, and router. On the next
  page, you can see all the steps I
  follow in order to copy a short piece
  of baseboard cap. The process isn't
  difficult, as long as you're familiar
  with and respectful of these powerful
  tools.


New Furnace won't turn on after trying to install thermostat I had a furnace installed about a year ago in my basement.  The installer left the wires sticking out of the wall for me to install a thermostat.  He said if you want to turn the furnace on, just touch the red and white wire together.  This has worked for me for the last year when I wanted to warm  up the basement I would just hook the two wires together.

The day came when I was ready to install a thermostat, I hooked up the 5 wires to the thermostat the way I thought it should be installed.  When that didn't work, I tried many other configurations.  When none of them worked, I decided to go back and check the red and white wire test by holding them together.  Now the furnace won't turn on at all when I do this.

Things I've tired

I made sure my furnace was all closed up and the safety switch on the furnace cover was pushed in.
I made sure the furnace power switch was on.
I made sure the main breaker was on for the furnace

I am wondering if some of my wiring configuration might have tripped something in the furnace control board.  I noticed a small button on the control board and was wondering if this might be some sort of "Reset" button.  I haven't tried it yet, because I didn't know what it did.

Any advice would be appreciated on getting my furnace working again and hooking up my thermostat.

Jump red to green and see if the indoor blower runs, if so you have 24 volt power and the transformer and 3 amp fuse on your circuit board are fine,if not check the 3 amp automotive type fuse found on your circuit board.
If you have no fuse the transfomer may be bad from touching red to Common a direct short which fries the transformer. Is there a diagnostic light on your furnaces circuit board?  if so is it flashing or staying lit? is there correct high voltage as well as the 24 volts?
Breaker tripped?


Why are these receptacles so difficult to plug into? I just moved into a new apartment with these weird receptacles that make it very difficult to plug anything in. Is there a trick to these? Or is it normal for it to be extremely difficult to plug into them?

They are tamper resistant, as indicated by the letters "TR" stamped between the holes. The secret is to insert the plug squarely into the receptacle. The two little doors inside have to be pushed at the same time by the prongs of the plug.


What code book do I refer to to find the proper repair for a broken wooden floor joist in Arkansas? The sister joist was not installed properly and the floor is sagging; trying to convince boss it is truly an issue that simply "hitting the sister joist with a sledge hammer" won't fix..please send me in the right direction.  Need to be able to quote something more official than my opinion that the floor needs to be looked at by a structural engineer or, at the very least, the floor jacked back up and the joist replaced.

I don't live in Arkansas, but Google says your building department uses the 2006 International Building Code (IBC) with amendments. (Amendments are added to all building codes by the local Building Codes Division in each state to reflect local conditions, etc.)

You say it's a "home" so the "loading requirements" are usually somewhat less than commercial or industrial loading. So, if the joist failed, (you didn't say how it failed,) then you need to investigate the "why", because this is fairly uncommon...especially if it's one joist in a series of "like joists".

While the Building Code states a "Uniform Load" be applied throughout the house, we'll often add a joist or two under refrigerators, spa tubs, etc. because we know there's an extra load in those areas.

I think Ed Beal is correct that you can sister a joist on each side of the failed joist and fix the problem. However, I'd recommend you find the cause. If you suspect all the joists in this area are undersized, then you need to have it reviewed. Here where I live, you could call the local Building department and tell them the "span" and the "spacing" and they'd let you know if it meets code. If it's an engineered joist, you can call the manufacturer's rep and he can tell you.


Closet door doesn't close completely from the top side - IKEA closet and hinges We bought IKEA closets with several hinges of this specific type:
You can adjust the screws to shift the closet door horizontally, vertically and the depth towards the closet.
With one specific closet the top right of the closet won't close.  The bottom right side closes against the closet, leaving a gap of about 2 centimeters deep on the top right side.  I've tried adjusting the hinges to adjust the depth and horizontal placements endlessly with little to no improvement.
Question: Does anyone know how to solve this or is the door simply uneven?
(There are small cushions attached on the inside which makes it look like the bottom right is not touching the closet, but it is.
It's not easy for us to detach the hinges again to verify if the problem is the door itself.)

Use a long straight edge (4-6' long, depending on the height of the cabinet) on the door (maybe use the level you used to ensure that the cabinet itself was vertical) to ensure that the door itself is flat and not warped. Though they seem to take pretty good care of these in shipping, things happen.
If you're certain the door is flat, use an accurate ruler to ensure that the mounting holes in the cabinet wall are all the same distance from the front edge of the cabinet. Despite these all being machine made, it's possible for the holes to be misdrilled. I recently purchased & assembled a (non-IKEA) flat-pack armoire and both side panels were incorrectly drilled - the bottom 2 door hinges would mount, but the top ones wouldn't. They sent me replacement sides and all is good now.
It is possible, BTW, to remove the screws for the hinges. With a little care you can install them several times if necessary. The particle board these are made of will get chewed up, but it is doable (again from personal experience). If you determine that the problem is with the door, you should be able to exchange it. Remove the screws from the door since it (and any damaged holes) is going to be returned.


How would I wire a motion sensor to a fluorescent light? How would I wire this motion sensor to the fluorescent light? I’ve heard that not all motion sensors are created equal and it may shorten the lifespan of the bulbs or possibly the transformer but if it’s a light rarely used and not much traffic thru that area, then I’m not too concerned with that... right now it’s coming straight from the breaker box and it’s on 24x7! Just stupid simple instructions to wire it... cooors have me wondering what goes to what...

I found a few different models of the Defiant sensor.  It looks like they all contain an electronic switch, with some controls like timing and sensitivity.

Of the models I found, some say they only work with incandescent bulbs, and some with incandescent or LED, but none claimed to be compatible with fluorescents.  One of the models that claimed to work with LED bulbs had customer feedback complaining about it not working with LED bulbs. So if you use it with fluorescents, be prepared to buy a replacement ballast if it works at all.

That said, the wiring would be as follows:

White is neutral and gets connected in common with the white leads of the feed and the light.  The feed would be a wire running back to the breaker panel.  If the white is already connected to the feed, just add the white fixture wire to it.
The models I saw had a bare or green wire, which is the ground wire and gets connected in common with the ground wire of the feed and the ground wire of the fixture.  My understanding is that if your sensor does not have a ground wire, it won't work with a fluorescent fixture (not 100% sure that is universal, or even what role it plays with the ballast, but I'll pass on that nugget for what it's worth).
Black is power into the sensor and is connected to the black wire of the feed.
Red is the power output (hot) from the sensor and gets connected to the black wire of the fixture.

If you find a similar sensor on the Home Depot web site, you can download the installation manual there.  It covers not only the wiring, but how to adjust and use the controls.


Refrigerator on a shared electric line with Stove and 5 countertop outlets When we moved in our new construction home the dedicated fridge outlet in the kitchen was faulty.
The builder sent his electrician who said the the entire line has an issue so they did a connection from the adjacent counter top outlets + gas stove line. So now GFCI 5 counter outlets + gas stove + refrigerator shares the same line. They also relabeled the circuit box.
I think this is a quick hack and wondering if this will affect resale value down the road or fail inspection. The electrician said that it is as per the NEC code and running a new line will cause 20 plus drywall holes or so. Since we are under warranty all these fixes will be covered but I was wondering if it’s worth poking those holes for a dedicated line.
If we leave it this way is it going to jeopardize future sale or inspection failed because the fridge did not have a dedicated outlet. Does this affect resale value?

The refrigerator outlet being shared with countertop outlets is fine, and very common in older houses.  However, there are some advantages to having the refrigerator be on a dedicated circuit.  The primary advantage is that you're at no risk of some other device tripping the breaker, and you don't turn it back on right away for whatever reason, not realizing that your food is spoiling.  The other advantage is that if you ever install a backup power source, such as a generator, it's much easier to wire that to keep your food save through power outages.  It's up to you whether this is worth breaking out the drywall for or not.


Pulling cables (CAT5e) Vertically with Horizontal Studs in the Wall I want to pull two Ethernet cables from my attic down a 12’ wall into the living room behind the tv console. There are several horizontal studs in the wall preventing a straight drop. From the top, the lowest horizontal stud is 8’ down.

I’ve come across “flex” auger bits. My intent is to use a 74” long bit with a 54” extension to drill straight down from the attic. Is this the right method? Any alternatives? Anything “easier”?

Update:
I used a 1.25” auger drill. I made a 8” wide by 12” wide cutout in the drywall between the header and the fire stop. I drilled up thru the header and down thru the fire stop. Easy.
...The wrench in the mix. My stud sensor was giving some funny readings, but other checks concluded that there was another horizontal at about 4’ from the floor. I tried to make the same cut in the drywall. Turns out, there are 2 2x12s running horizontally(I assume to mount a tv to the wall) once I figured that out, I had to open up the fire stop hole to push the EMT conduit away from the 2x12s. I’ve got a little patching and painting left.

Given that the  "horizontal studs" are fireblocking, you should be applying firestop caulk after you run the wires, which favors access holes and drywall repair. So does the possible/likely presence of power wiring in the wall, and possibly other things like pipes. Blindly poking a long drill bit into the unknown can get very interesting, in the unpleasant sense of "interesting."

Edit to add: Also - choose conduit. Cat5e is already obsolete, even if it's "good enough" for what you currently want. Conduit makes it easy to install the next thing when needed.


Generator help confused Hey anyone help left side of the pik is one generator
Geting uneven voltages without switching the contactor on
Think its the avr card

But what really gets me is L1_E geting 2 v ?  Thats with the load on

But I switched generators over in a ats and the other generator on the right side of the picture all is healthy
Anyone help out ? . Maybe the alternator windings  ?

It looks like your generator has an internal ground fault between winding L1 and earth.  It's not so bad when the generator is unloaded, but load just causes it to short dead.

Normally this would put it in a battle with the neutral-ground bond that would result in a breaker trip... but it looks like your neutral-ground bond is cheese.


Adding a circuit breaker to stop a constant tripping breaker I have a panel in this two story house that has a weird wiring setup. The outlets around the house have been divided into 4 breakers of 15AMP each, which normally work however there is a single one of the four that takes a majority of them (living room, dining room, master bedroom, and a second bedroom). This is causing that breaker to be tripped at least 1-2 a week. The panel does have 5 or so spots left on it where no breakers are installed. I'm wondering if it's possible to take that one breaker that's constantly tripping and divide it into a newly installed 15AMP breaker?

If anyone has the answer or maybe a different solution for how to fix this that would be great as I'm worried about wearing out the existing breaker.

The problem is that all of those outlets and fixtures are on a single circuit. That means a single cable. The circuit breaker is merely the beginning of that circuit run.

What you need is more wire, not just more breakers. You would have to run a separate wire from one or more of those outlets and fixtures to the panel box, and then you could add a new breaker. Supplement: You would, of course, disconnect these outlets and fixtures from the original circuit.

Also, though you do not suggest it, please do not even consider changing to a higher amperage breaker. The amperage is again controlled by the wire (in this case, size), not the breaker.


water heater - flow problem got a new 3 liter instant water heater installed. When the heater is off, water flow is normal. When it is on, about one liter or so hot water flows and then there is no water.

What might be the reason here?

The plumber installed the heater with the inlet and outlet pipes switched. Swapping the inlet and outlet fixed the problem.


What methods can be used to make a dark colored window become opaque? Currently, I have some problem regarding some windows, which are dark-colored. During the day time, people outside the windows cannot see people inside the windows. However, during the night time, people outside the windows can see people inside the windows.

Some more, I cannot place bindings such as curtains as the owner of the house prohibit me from doing it. What methods I can use to prevent people outside the windows to view me?

Note: The room have these dark-colored windows and the room is at the first floor. The room is directly opposite of a 4 lane road and the room is rented.

Do let me know if further information are required.

Extra information: I search but can only manage to find the following picture that have similar characteristics as the windows that I am referring to:

During the daytime, the daylight outside reflects in the window and drowns out the light that comes from inside. The darkening of the glass only reduces the light that comes out the window, and at night there is no reflection to drown out the light, so the light from the inside can still be seen although it's reduced.

At night you have lights on inside, which of course increases the light that comes out. Dimming the lights will reduce the amount of light that gets out.

So, there isn't much you can do, unless you install massive floodlights to light up the surroundings at night, to get the same effect as you have at daytime.


What should I use to seal the ball rod on a pop-up sink drain plug? I had to replace the ball rod assembly on a bathroom sink's pop-up drain since the old rod had corroded badly. I used a universal replacement kit that came with balls of several sizes and one very flimsy washer to seal the interface between the ball and the tightening nut. While trying to tighten the nut down for the first time, I cracked the washer, possibly by over tightening the nut.

Now I have a ball rod assembly that leaks around the ball. What is an appropriate way to seal that interface? The first idea that I had was to try a rubber O ring as a gasket. A #10 ring seems to fit well inside the nut, but it doesn't stay in place well when I tighten it (it tends to wrap itself around the ball somewhat, not staying in the joint between the ball and nut). It seems like some sort of rubber gasket would be the most sturdy solution, but I'm a bit out of my element.

Sorry if I mangled any terminology above; plumbing is definitely not my day job!

Every lavatory faucet manufacturer also supplies the pop-up assembly; they are ALL different. There are also many replacement units from manufacturers all over the globe; again, all different.

Unless you know the manufacturer and source an identical replacement, you will need to find a tapered washer of some sort that fits the nut and ball. It might be shaped something like this:

You will likely need to change out the whole pop-up assembly or do what I have done: throw away the stopper, rod, linkage and nut. Plug the hole where the rod went in with plumber's epoxy. use a rubber stopper on a chain.


Need to add an outlet under a sink (for garbage disposal) I am replacing a garbage disposal and the old one was wired right from the wall switch to the disposal. The new one has a plug, so it would be much easier to install an outlet under the sink and plug in the new disposal than to wire it the old way.

There is no existing hole for an outlet, and there seems to be cabinet or some other kind of thin plywood where I would want to mount it, so I'm looking for the best (and obviously safest) way to put an outlet there.

My question is this -- how can I surface mount an outlet there, or should I cut out the back of the cabinet and the drywall behind it and mount an outlet to the stud? The romex is there, I just need the outlet, and the circuit has a GFCI outlet on it.

Surface mount it through the cabinet back to a stud

If you can find a stud in the wall, it'd be best to run the NM into a surface mounted box (a "handy box" will do) that's screwed through the cabinet back and wallboard to a stud, then wire up the receptacle, mount it to the "handy box", and put a cover on it.  (You can get away without a ground pigtail if you use a self-grounding type receptacle and a one-hole box cover, BTW.)


How to fix a hole in the wall of a plastic shower/bathtub? I have a hole in the wall of my shower about 4 inches in diameter.  I think there is fiberglass underneath.  What is the best way to fix the wall and what kind of paint could I use to make it blend in with the rest of the tub?

You can actually repair it. Generally make it dry. Sand down the surface around the effected areas. If there is an actual hole try using plywood to fill the hole. Apply fibreglass (you can buy strips of it) and coat each piece entirely in epoxy resin. Let it cure and repeat until there is a correct thickness. You can then sand that down as well to make it smooth and flush with the rest of the structure. You can paint it over with an epoxy based paint that will stick and not peel.


Concrete or gravel for deck post? I am building a deck and keep getting some conflicting messages when it comes to backfilling the holes.  Already dug down 24”, added gravel for drainage and 4-6” of concrete (hole día approx 12-15”). I am well below the frost line.  Is it ok to just backfill with concrete for additional strength or is gravel/material removed the best way to go?

I would be on the safe side and use concrete.


Is a timed electrical switch causing vent fan to run slower / with less power? I bought this timed electrical switch and used it to replace a standard switch that turned on my bathroom vent fan (I'm always forgetting to turn it off and it often will run all day.)  after the install, everything seems to work fine, but I could swear the fan is not running as loud / with as much power after the replacement.  What could be causing this?

The timer you installed is designed for incandescent lights only. They make a timer suitable for induction loads (fan motor) You need to switch it out for the correct timer switch. I made the same mistake myself and getting the correct switch solved the slow fan problem.


Air handler turns on even when set temp is reached My HVAC is a heat pump system, the air handler inside is a Goodman aspf183016ea. The whole system/house is about 3 years old, and is all electric. I recently moved into the home and noticed that the air handler blower would continue to run even when the set temp was reached, whether heating or cooling; the condenser unit outside would shut off correctly, but the fan would continue to blow. This even occurs when the thermostat is set to off (fan is set to auto). The fan would occasionally shut off, but it was very rare. I had a technician take a look and he said the issue was probably a bad relay switch. He replaced it, but I noticed the issue was still present and called him back. He said he wasn’t sure why it would still be doing this, but replaced it again with a “heavy duty” one and just ensured me that even if the fan blows, it wouldn’t draw much power.

Now, the fan does shut off when the set temp is reached, but it keeps turning on and off in 10-15 minute increments; I’ve timed it, and it’s not exact every time. I’ve also noticed when the fan does come on (when the set temp has been reached and shouldn’t be on), I hear an audible noise from the blower unit, like a switch activating, before the fan turns on. I’ve since replaced the thermostat (formerly a Honeywell FocusPro 6000) with a Nest Learning Thermostat E. All the connections were made accurately, and the heating/cooling/fan controls work properly, however the fan still switches itself on and off in the same intermittent manner. I know the Nest thermostat has a setting to run the fan every hour for a set amount of time but I haven’t activated this.

Is the problem still with the relay switch, and should I have a technician take a look again? What else could the problem be?

I have a picture of a similar units wiring diagram, your unit might have connection for an optional outdoor thermostat - W2 on thermostat via outdoor thermostat to brown wire on air handler (if the outdoor thermostat is optional on your system - the diagram on the panel will tell you) and it will also describe how to install with out the outdoor thermostat by connecting the brown and W2 white leads together.  Again the panel has a wiring diagram - take a good picture of it and post it everyone can be much more helpful with that.


Outdoor 12VAC LED lites flashing 4 new LED spots, 3.2 watts each (sealed: cannot replace bulbs).  Lites and transformer labeled for 12VAC.  On a GFCI protected, photocell- and timer-controlled circuit (photocell turns lites on, timer turns them off after 6 hr).  Usually 3 lites (landscape), and sometimes add 4th lite for flag.  When 4 lites, timer is bypassed so lites stay on all night.  All lites are 4 to 25 feet from transformer and on 12 gauge wire.

Setup works fine with older, large transformer designed to handle much larger, halogen load.  For esthetics, I wanted to replace with small electronic transformer (12VAC, 10 watt min, 60 watt max) that would fit in standard electrical box on same circuit.  New setup works fine with 3 lites (even though 9.6 watts is slightly below transformer minimum), but with 4 lites (12.8 watts) starts flashing after about 15 seconds then goes out after about 30 seconds.  Switching back to 3 lites and it works fine again.  I did switch out the 4th lite for a 10 watt halogen.  Appeared to work fine initially, but later on in evening all lites were much dimmer.  Transformer supplier says it has been tested with their lites (including LED) with no problem, but had no answer for me.  I am not using their lites.  Any ideas?

Tyson asked about the photocell - it is a three wire photocell.  And a correction - the low voltage cable being used is apparently 18 gauge, not 12 gauge.

In answer to Harper, the 4 lites total only 12.8 watts and the transformer is rated for 10W minimum and 60W max , so I don't know how it could be overloaded.

As described previously, the system worked fine with 3 lites, closest of which was 12 ft away and two more were another 11 ft away (Y'd from the closest one).

I have done some more experimentation > The lite which (when switched on) caused the problem was only 4 ft from the transformer and switch.  Too close?  So I connected that particular lite instead to an end that was 23 ft away (as described in the previous paragraph), with a cable that was about 32 ft long, so total of 55 ft of cable with two lites between the transformer and the problem lite.  Then it worked, without flashing. Makes me think that being too close to the transformer caused the problem, but that's where that lite is, attached to the same wall as the electrical box that holds the transformer - not out in the yard like the other 3 lites.  Then I connected the 32 ft cable to the transformer leads (along with cable to the yard lites that were already connected). All 4 lites work without starting to flash.  So the transformer has a nominal 12.8 watts of load, but the lite that is 4 ft from the transformer is now separated from it by 36 ft of cable.  I don't know if the length of cable increases the resistance or helps smooth out the transformer's "square" sine wave (apparently an issue with LEDs and electronic transformers).  So instead of the extra 32 ft of cable (which I don't want on the front patio), is there something I can use to equivalently electrically isolate the offending lite from transformer?

Since all are flashing, this is a power supply problem.  (You can call it a transformer if you like.)

The "flashing, then shutting off" behavior is typical of a power supply which is overloaded.  The power supply starts up, and its self-protection circuits discover that it's overloaded, and shuts the power supply down in what's called a "crowbar".  The power supply then reboots and tries again.  This results in the flashing.  It sounds like your power supply has an additional feature that it stops retrying after n number of tries.

So your first solution is to reduce your load.  You already do this when only 3 lights are connected.  You can also put an ammeter on the line and see how much power is actually being drawn, and compare that to the spec on the power supply.

Noting that your switch arrangement is highly unusual, I have to wonder if something about it is causing more amps to flow than intended. I.e. A miswiring of some kind.


Do studs in wooden buildings eventually get replaced as they lose their structural capacity? I'm living in a 30 years old building made of wood - an ordinary apartment complex in Seattle. As I was drilling a hole into a stud, a thought occurred to me - over the years, these studs have probably seen hundreds if not thousands of things drilled into them - shelves, cabinets, lighting fixtures, mirrors, exercise equipment, etc. Eventually, the studs should become so full of holes that they would become useless for further drilling and potentially threaten the structural integrity of the building. Studs might also lose their structural capacity over the years naturally, as nothing lasts forever.
So do buildings ever reach a point where studs have to be replaced? If so, how does it work? Or do these kinds of buildings simply get demolished rather than undertaking such a complex project? I've tried Googling this question in many different variations, but couldn't find anything specific.

No.
Wood frame construction is generally done for rigidity not strength.  You can climb a tree and have the branches deflect significantly before they break - the strength is fine - if you build a house with just strength in mind then you'd be bouncing all over the place.  Wood frame construction is instead designed for rigidity such that when you walk across the floor your book case isn't bouncing up and down.
You also have to take into account that a lot of walls are not strictly part of the structure.  A lot of interior walls are only there to delineate spaces.
Now getting into the drilling a million holes over the years into studs such that they eventually fail.  Studs are under compression but are very strong in compression.  Rules for how you can notch or drill studs typically allow quite large holes for water pipes and  waste water pipes.
"Holes in bearing wall studs may not exceed 40 percent of the width of the stud.  Holes in non-bearing walls can’t exceed 60 percent of their width."
https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/drilling-holes-notching-and-boring-holes-in-wood-studs
Now given you can drill a hole 40% the width of the stud in a bearing wall, 40% of 3.5" width = 1.4" (~1 3/8).  How many 1/8" holes does it take to equal 1 3/8" = 11 just to form the diameter of the allowable hole.  I am not going to do the math on how many it would take to equal the full hole.  These holes would all have to be in the same area to achieve the accepted weakening of this member.  Now factor in that the full strength of the wall assembly at the weakened state is likely only required under 100 year design event conditions and like most things dictated by code we reach a factor of over engineering which should ensure safety and there should be no way you could drill enough holes in the lifetime of a building to put the structural integrity at risk.
A plumber or electrician drilling willy nilly through load bearing members is a different story - even then you likely only encounter problems at design conditions.


What does this concrete pool surface look like? This is a surface of a concrete pool after an acid wash. I first thought it is plaster covered with paint, but then, by the feel and look of it, it does not seem to be paint. Hence I have several questions in one:

What can this white(r) layer be?
What can be under it? (the actual concrete base is yellow, and it is deeper)
If the gray stuff is plaster, why is it not white?

that's the actual concrete under the gray surface:

I don't see any white in the pic, just the gloss gray surface surrounded by the etched surface.

The pool surface looks like it was etch with muriatic acid (as you already mentioned) in order to prep the surface for new plaster. This is what I understand that is done to remove loose scale on pool surfaces. It needs to be flushed thoroughly to cancel the etching.

Plaster can be colored as with any masonry cement or product.

The gunite or shotcrete base (concrete) will be under it about a 1/2" to 3/4" under it depending on how much the acid took off. I would be surprised to see that is yellow. It should be at least a light gray.

EDIT/ADDITION 6/6/14

The added picture helps me a bit, it confirms what I know what should be in place, regardless of the colors that present themselves. On my end I see gray plaster, if it is white, it really does not matter, it is a matter of esthetics. Bottom line it is plaster. The added picture also shows the concrete base, whether it be yellow in color, or not. Again I do not see the yellow if that is what you are referring to, but I do see the concrete base. The texture (albeit the picture could be a little more clear) and color on my ends says it is concrete base, which is usually applied with either of 2 methods which are sprayed in place. Gunite is one method, shotcrete is the other, although there are hand applied ways to do this too.

What I did not detail in my first post, was the first picture shows the original surface that was not removed by the acid for some reason. When the plaster is applied it is troweled in place to create a smooth surface. This portion may have been troweled to the point that is became harder than the surrounding plaster, or maybe other conditions created this.


How do I polish brass with household ingredients? I have some old brass candlesticks that I inherited from my grandmother after she passed away. They have a lot more sentimental than monetary value to me. What would be the best way to polish them using household ingredients?

I'm aware of Brasso (e.g., this answer), but am looking for something relatively natural to use. I have heard that you can accomplish this using ketchup, but have no idea how to do it. Any advice?

You can soak the candlesticks in vinegar, then scrub.
If you want a little more aggressive treatment, dissolve some salt in the vinegar. That'll generate a little hydrochloric acid, which'll take the pH down a bit and clean more quickly.
Some folks swear by a paste of vinegar, flour, and salt. I've never used that mix. I've never had to.


Can I cap old, live wiring to remove the switch? I have still-live-but-not-in-use electric baseboard heating with controls all over the house. I'd like to remove them, but the wires are still live.

Can I just cap them using a wire-nut and put a blank receptical cover over it?

That's a good start, but you will still have live wires running around in your walls for no constructive purpose.

Find the breaker that controls the circuit, and turn it off.  Check all your other installed loads (sump pump, etc.) to make sure everything else still works - the several heaters should be the only thing on the breaker, but sometimes people do odd things.  Once you're sure of that...

Turn off the main, take off the panel front (be warned that if your main breaker is inside the panel, some metal parts inside the panel are still energized!!)  Then pull the breaker off the panel if it unclips (as it's easier to work with this way), remove the wires from the breaker, cap the wires in the service panel, put the breaker back with a N/C label on it, and put the panel front back on.


How to connect two bed legs to make a bunk bed from two regular beds? I am planning to make a bunk bed from two regular kids' beds and looking for ideas how to connect two bed legs so that the result would be aesthetically pleasing, as well as constructionally sound.

The beds are IKEA Gulliver:

I'm planning to stack them one on top of another, and use slates from Sultan Lade base (cut to about 1.5' length) to extend height (the slates are the same size as the legs: 2-3/4" x 3/4"):

So, I'm trying to figure out how to connect the legs to slates without drilling too many holes and making it look nice. One option would be to attach aluminum C-channels (like The Hillman Group 4-ft L x 3/8-in W x 1/2-in H Aluminum Trim Channel) to the top and bottom of the slate extensions (screw them to the extensions and insert the channel into the bed legs; would also need to cut them to 2-3/4" size and drill holes for screws):

I'd also use something (metal strip?) to connect the parts at the back of the bed.

Another option would be to use metal plates to connect the legs from the wide sides (have two plates on both sides of the leg with holes at top and bottom and use connector bolts to attach them together). I think this option would be safer (since the connector will cover a wider area), but I cannot figure out where I can buy or get 2-3/4" wide metal (aluminum or steel) plates.

Yet, another option would be to find some 2-3/4"-wide lumber pieces long enough for the height of the final bunk bed and attach them to the legs (would still need to use connector pieces) with the connector bolts. This would probably be more structurally sound, but I'm not sure where to get the lumber of this particular size (local Lowes only carries 2-1/2" which will not look nice) and how much it'd cost (don't want to spend over $20-$30 on this project, not counting paint cost).

Any idea or suggestions? Many thanks.

P.S. In case anyone wonders why do this in the first place: I'd buy a regular bunk bed, but every bunk bed I saw was a twin size and we do not have room to place it. This child Gulliver bed is smaller than twin, and it's ideal for the location where I'd like to place it.

UPDATE:

Okay, I finally finished the project. Here is the unpainted assembled version to show which parts I added:

And here is the final result:

And a detailed post explaining how I did it.

What I would do is attach a length of pine stock the same width (2 3/4) and thickness (3/4) to the inside of the each corner of the bottom bed, lift the top bed into position, and then install 4 more pieces of pine stock opposite the other four so as to sandwich the legs of the top in between.


Do future electrical works invalidate a satisfactory EICR? I recently got a domestic EICR done for rental purposes. Certificate shows Satisfactory Result.

I am about to commission the fitting of a new light which will require wiring into the fuse board. Would this change to the property invalidate the certificate I currently have?

What should a qualified electrician provide for individual jobs to avoid having to do a full EICR retest every time some work is done?

(United Kingdom)

The EICR is a report of the electrical installation at a particular point in time (like a vehicle MOT test certificate). It is not invalidated by any subsequent work.

Any electrical work done should be accompanied by a Minor Works Certificate (MWC) for small jobs, and this Certificate will be limited to the work done and will not test the rest of the installation.

It is a requirement of the IET Wiring Regulations that work is tested and certificated, and a requirement of NICEIC membership to follow the IET Regulations and issue certificates accordingly.

For rental purposes you would need an invoice to claim the cost of the work against tax, and a MWC to demonstrate compliance with your landlord's duty of care in respect of electrical safety.


What’s the marginal value increase as toilet price increases? I’m going to replace the four toilets in my new house with elongated taller toilets.

I’m looking at the $300 range because of some design features (taller seat, elongated bowl, tank attachment, easier to clean around seat bolts, etc) but I note that toilets start at $125 and go up from there. What are the features of a toilet that mark the marginal improvement as toilets get more expensive?

Edit - to clarify this point, among elongated tall toilets, what justifies the price differences? Is it purely aesthetics and brand name? Or are there things that make one toilet “better” than another?

Also it’s annoying that at least one store sells so many “exclusive” models. Are these just unique names so we can’t compare head to head with other retailers? Or are their differences between two apparently similar but differently named models at two retailers?

There are different materials, i.e. porcelain (vitreous china) or ceramic. They are similar, but there are cost differences based on the manufacturing process. Porcelain is baked at higher temperatures, so they take longer to cool, resulting in fewer toilets per day from the manufacturing plant. Ceramic however needs additional coatings to make it smooth, but people are wanting things like anti-bacterial coatings, oil resistance etc.

One piece toilets increase the price too because if something cracks or splits in the baking / curing process, they have to throw away the entire thing, vs only the tank or only the bowl. But when you have separate parts, you have more nooks and crannies to clean.

After those main details, it mostly becomes marketing, aesthetics and hype, often about that the toilet is capable of "passing". I bought one that famously claims it can "pass a tennis ball", that was total BS...


can you combine a regular return filter if you have a electrostatic hvac filter system can you combine a regular return filter if you have a electrostatic hvac filter system as the house? we moved into a house that has this system but my kids have allergies and i understand that the electrostatic filters are not great if you have allergies.

Yes standard fiber filters can be added, I suggest adding them at the return point if possible this keeps the heavy dust particles out of the duct system. Having a granddaughter that has severe breathing problems I can tell you keeping the electrostatic filter clean is your best bet. Adding fiber filters for large dust particles is the next best thing.
Adding filters that are very fine are actually counter productive as they slow the air down and reduce the exchanges through the filter system. Also systems are designed for a flow and excessive obstruction can cause shorter system life and even trigger safety components causing the furnace to shut down or cooling system to ice up.
The last few times where my area was choked with smoke from Forrest fires my grand daughter was not hospitalized as has happened in the past.
The electrostatic elements did need to be cleaned at 2 weeks where it is normally a monthly thing and there are the cheap fiberglass filters at the entrance(s) to the system plus the electrostatic.


Why doesn't my door close properly after an earthquake? After the earthquake I noticed our back door has gotten really hard to close. You have to slam it and give it a booty bump in order to get it shut. To open it, I have to use all my weight to yank it open. It's also the location I ran to when I started to feel the house shake. I basically stood in that door way wondering what was going on and if I should run back in the house to grab some valuables.

Originally we thought it was because of moisture, but we don't ever remember this happening before.

What are our options to fix this? Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

It sounds as though there has been some movement of your house - particularly in this area. I'd recommend getting a surveyor in to assess the movement and see what else might need attention. This might be just the most obvious symptom of some more serious problems.

Assuming that it is just the door that's the problem then you need to "ease" the door by removing some of the wood from where it's sticking. By closing the door gently you should be able to see where it now hits the frame. You need to sand/plane/rasp this section of the door removing material until it fits.

If it's at the bottom you might need to take the door off its hinges to be able to do this.

Once you've got the door fitting properly re-seal the now bare edges to prevent moisture getting in that way.

You could remove some material from the frame, but that's more awkward.


How to keep brick face clean when applying fresh mortar? In the few times I have replaced bricks in my home, I always feel the end result is a little messy. Specifically, despite my best efforts, the brick face ends up a little "smeared" with mortar. What is the best way to avoid this problem?

I thought this would be a common issue and searched online. Maybe I searched the wrong terms, because I mostly found references on how to clean up cured mortar (Muriatic acid).

In my case, I am talking about fresh mortar as the brick is laid. I am curious how Masons end with a nice, clean finished wall. Is it just experience and ability to keep the bricks clean in the first place? Or is there a washing / finishing step?

Both of those things. Skilled masons drop fairly little mud, and they manage to keep from smearing it. There's often a cleanup phase involving acid, though.

You can keep a nylon brush and a bucket of water nearby and scrub periodically, before the mortar cures. If you give the joints a few minutes to firm up and work carefully you won't damage them.


What could cause the light in my garage door opener to stop working? The light that is attached to my garage door opener no longer turns on when I open or close the garage. I have tried incandescent and CFL bulbs that work in other lamps. Any ideas of what may be wrong or how I can troubleshoot the problem?

Garage door openers are subjected to a lot of vibration in normal use.  There are even special garage door opener incandescent light bulbs which have a stronger filament than usual, to resist breakage from shaking.

Since you've tried different bulbs, the next most likely issue is a bad connection at the socket.  It could be in the socket itself.  There is typically a little metal tab or "tongue" in the bottom of the socket which contacts the base tip of the bulb.  If that is bent down too far, it won't touch the bulb and light it up.  You can check this with a volt meter to see if you have power between it and the sidewall of the socket.  If you have power but no light, this is probably the problem.  Unplug the opener, and reach in to the socket with needle-nose pliers and pull the metal tab up, to make better contact with the tip of the bulb base.

Also, check the socket for rust or corrosion.  If you have any, you can sand it clean with a little sandpaper.

If you check with a meter and don't have power at the socket, then you may have a broken wire or wire connection to the socket.  You'll have to unplug and open up the opener to inspect the wires.


Oven 3 Wire in Subpanel I keep looking for a situation like mine on this website and other websites, but I was unable to find one.

A 3 wire oven (two insulated hots and 1 bare twisted wire) is connected in an old main panel where the neutral and ground bus bars were bonded.  A new main panel was setup elsewhere, thus, the old main panel with the oven was converted to a subpanel and the neutral and ground bus bars were separated.

FOR NOW, should the bare twisted wire be on the isolated neutral bus bar or on the grounded bus bar? The oven is plugged into a 3 prong outlet.

I understand that an updated oven now has 4 wires: 2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground.  I can add in an insulated neutral wire and change the outlet at a later date when the oven is updated.

For now, your bare wire's a neutral

Your oven branch circuit appears to have been run using a type SE cable -- this was common practice in the 50's as heavy gauge NM was not available at that time.  As the NEMA 10 is an ungrounded outlet with 2 hots and 1 neutral, the bare wire in your type SE cable lands to the subpanel's neutral bar.


Installing switch with timer I am trying to install a light switch with a built in timer to replace my original light switch.  There are 2 switches side by side in the box but I only want to replace one.  The setup currently has 3 main power wires, all with one black one white and one copper wires in each.  All the white wires are wire nutted together, none of which are going to the current switch.  One of the main power wires has a black wire going to the switch.  The original switch had another black wire going back to the box where it was wire nutted to all the rest of the black wires.  The new switch that I want to install has one blue, black, and Green wires. I know the green goes to the copper but not sure which wires to connect to the Blue and black wires on the new switch

I'm surprised that the box or paperwork that came with the switch didn't have instructions, so here is my advice (25 years as an electrician):
The black wire goes to the hot bundle, the green wire is ground, and the blue wire goes to the light that is being switched.
If there is a pig-tail that acted as an individual wire to the old switch, you can either keep that and attach the black wire to it, or remove it from the bundle and connect the black wire on the switch directly to the bundle.

As a way of checking what I am telling you, on the switch itself, there may be some labels for each of the wires (the black, blue and green wires).
Typical labeling for the 'hot' wire is: "Hot", "Common", and "Line"
Typical labeling for the switched wire is: "Load", "Line", or "Switched"

Note that in my experience, whenever the label for the Hot wire is "Line", the switched wire is never called "Line" -it is almost always labeled "Load" (which is more accurate -but let's not argue semantics).

Good luck and happy wiring!

:)
Greg


Vinyl tile installation over a concrete basement floor with moisture I would like to put some sort of flooring over part of my basement. Something with the look and simple installation of an interlocking garage tile (example) would fit the bill -- this isn't a living space, but a cleaner, smoother floor would be nicer than dusty uneven concrete.

However, I'm concerned that this might cause problems with mold growth or moisture buildup. The floor in my basement is about 100 years old, and if there ever was a drainage system, it probably isn't functional anymore. If you tape a sheet of plastic down on the floor for a day or two, moisture does accumulate underneath it, and we run a dehumidifier during the humid/wet seasons. The basement has never flooded but it can get a little humid/musty if the dehumidifier isn't running.

So, can I install some flooring without causing bigger problems? I could imagine that any of these applies:

It's just a bad idea, and I should stick with small area mats
It's an OK idea as long as the floor is properly designed with vents
It's fine, doesn't matter if the concrete floor is a little moist under the tiles
It's fine, but I should apply some sort of sealer to the floor first
It's actually good, the vinyl tile layer will reduce how much moisture gets into the air and take a load off of the dehumidifier

So... Which of these is right? Is there a particular type of flooring or installation process that's designed to handle not-100%-dry basement floors?

One product I know of that is meant for this type of scenario is Dricore. It provides a moisture barrier from the floor.

  DRIcore has an integrate high density polyethylene membrane bonded to the underside of the panel which provides an excellent moisture barrier

I've never used it personally though it seems pretty popular in my neck of the woods.

I'd still recommend trying to rectify the root moisture problem before putting anything down.


Wiring multiple switches off 1 load wire How do I wire a three way switch and a single pole switch off of 1 load wire?

The basic technique is called "pigtailing".

Cut about 4-6 inches off some wire, and pull the conductors out of the outer insulation.  Do this for as many connections as you need to make. (It looks like you'll need 2 black and 2 white wires for this job.)

Strip both ends.

For the three way, you'll wire a black stub wire to the common terminal of one three way.
Wire another to one of the terminals of the single pole.   Now, with an appropriate sized wire nut (There's usually a sizing table on the back of the package) you will wire the two stub wires together with the live wire coming into the box.  Of course, you've turned the power off and double checked the live wire with a Non contact voltage tester before touching it.

Hopefully the three ways are already connected.  If not, you need to pull a 14-3 bundle from on switch to the other.   Connect the black and red travellers to the other screws on the three way. Pigtail the white to the white conductor to the panel.  At the other end, connect the black of a 14-2 to the common, and the other end to the fixture. White comes back from the fixture to the box, where it is wire nutted to the white of the 14-3.  And all grounds should be wired together and to the box, and to the green nut on the switch.

For the single pole, 14-2, black to the empty screw, to the fixture, and white from the fixture, and wire-nutted to the white from the panel.

If you don't have 100% confidence in your ability to do this, then hire an electrician.  This is potentially dangerous stuff.

The diagram is a bit unclear, but every wire connection MUST be made inside a box.  Don't ever nut wires together in the wall or attic.


How to level concrete surface? I have a concrete patio thats been tiled over. Part of the patio is lower than the rest so it collects water. How do I level it off? I guess pull up the tiles and add another layer of cement to the lower part. Is there another way?

The way you mentioned is usually the correct way to go, as long as the settlement was not only developing recently. You might want to find some self-leveling concrete product. An example would be the Rapid Set CTS concrete leveler (in US).

Please do follow the manufacture's instructions, especially about properly preparing the old concrete surface so that the nearly poured concrete could bound well with your existing surface.

If your settlement started recently, it would be better to figure out the cause before repairing. For example, examine if there is any water leak that could washout your soil.


Repairing above-ground gaps and holes in foundation I am moving into a house (built 1911) that had a few things turn up on the inspection.

One corner of the basement has an indoor cistern, and there are some gaps and a hole in the cinder blocks just above ground level.

The below photo is from that corner, just above the cover to the cistern. You can see light coming through from outside (the top of the cistern is right at ground level).

The inspector mentioned that it would be easy to fix this via expanding mortar, but the information that I'm finding (i.e., Nonset 400) says that expanding mortar should not be used on vertical surfaces. I presume this is because the wet compound would sag or bulge while drying.

What is a suitable method/material for these type of repairs?

The cistern, for reference:

Ultimately, I used two different types of cement for these two issues.
For the narrow gap, I used Quikrete Mortar Repair No. 8620-09, since it is advertised as a tuck-point compound. This is a light acrylic foam that hardens into a mortar-like substance. The applicator was able to inject the compound into the crack pretty easily.

For the larger hole in the concrete block, I use Quikrete Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement.

I had never used either of these before, but the instructions were easy to follow, and I was pleased with the results. The Quickrete cement dries quickly (5 minutes) so I had to work fast when using it.


Replacing tongue and groove floorboards: but can't find a match A room in an old farmhouse, formerly a porch, now enclosed, has floors made of tongue and groove lumber.  I need to repair those floors by replacing at least some sections of floorboards - somewhere between 10-30 linear feet.

Each original floorboard has a 3 1/4 inch face, and is 3/4 inch thick.  I'd guess it was milled from 1x4s, removing 1/4 inch sections to make the tongue and groove.  Tongue and groove each have 1/4 inch measurements.

All the off-the-shelf replacements I've found have a 3 1/8 inch face, and are something less than 3/4 inch thick.  Close but no cigar.

If I use the off-the-shelf replacements, that's going to leave a big gap, and I'd rather not.  Since I can't find off-the-shelf materials that match the original measurements, maybe I should try to fabricate replacements myself?

I have a table saw without dado, and I have a never-used router and small router table.  I think I could take 1x4s and slice out the material on either side of the tongue on the table saw and make the groove with two passes; or I could try to use the router, which I have no experience with.  Whatever I did would at best result in square sections, not the rounded sections in the original material.  (See photo below.)

So, three questions:

Are off-the-shelf replacements for these available and I just don't know where to look?  Ideas?
Will square sections instead of rounded ones be adequate?
Table saw or router?

Given your expressed degree of inexperience, unless you particularly want the learning experience (good, but pay close attention to coming out the far side with all the fingers and eyes you had going into it, and don't forget the earplugs for preserving your hearing, too) your best bet is to take a sample around to a custom millwork shop, which can likely do the job easily.

Aside from the "never used" aspect of your tools, the quaint belief that there's 3-3/4 inches of lumber in a 1x4 is concerning regarding how much of a learning process you have ahead of you for the DIY route. You MIGHT be able to get 3/4" thickness from 4/4 hardwood, but you often need 5/4 to be certain (fortunately you only need the one side to be good, which improves those odds - leaving the backside not completely planed is OK) and you'll definitely need 4-1/2 inch width to have 3-3/4 inches to work from. A "modern 1x4" in S4S condition (surfaced, i.e. planed flat, 4 sides) is typically 3/4, or even 11/16 thick (13/16 if you get a really super supplier) by 3-1/2 wide.

If you choose the learning experience, expect to make some bad boards, especially at first, and again when you get overconfident. That's part of the experience, and the only way to get experienced is to do it, learn from it, and do it some more while remembering what you learned when you screwed it up. But do try really, really, hard to make sure that your learning experiences don't involve trips to the Emergency Room.

Square- section T&G can be difficult to assemble. This is a set of routerbits that cuts a wedge-shaped profile (which has implications for "fixed size" that should be obvious) - I have also seen more rounded profiles, but am having no luck finding a set of router (or more commonly, shaper, but you don't have one) bits to cut those at the moment.

For the limited amount you need, you could just sand sharp edges off the tongues. You could also cut the square tongues to a rounded profile with a cove bit and a fence on the router table.


How to seal an outside hole temporarily Our house had a leak in the kitchen sink drain and a hole around the drain was cut in the outside siding in order to repair it. I would like to temporarily seal the hole until proper repairs can be made to the siding. What materials should I get (foam sealer, plaster, waterproof paint, etc)? Below is a picture of the hole.

As Levi mentioned in a comment, a can of spray foam (urethane) will do the job quickly and easily. It'll last months, at least. I'd use the minimal expansion "window and door" variety to avoid a mess. If you do a careful job that doesn't require shaving lumps later, it'll have a reasonably smooth skin that would probably take paint, too.

Note that urethane foam, caulk, and glue are crazy sticky. They will remain on skin for days and clothing forever. Prepare accordingly.


Two opposite phase circuits in one conduit... do i need 2 neutrals or an oversized neutral? Im running two individual single pole 20A circuits though a single 1/2" EMT conduit and hanging a duplex outlet every 6'.  They will alternate which circuit (phase) is feeding them (im running black and red 12AWG for these to simplify hook up)  Ive also got 2x 12 AWG White neutrals... and everything gets  grounded through the metal conduit.
Do I need both neutrals (the sketch shows a common neutral)?
And if I can run a single neutral do I need to upsize it from 12guage?

Update:
I ended up running an additional neutral because all of the outlets needed to be GFCI protected.  The First box on the string contained two GFCI outlets, each with separate neutrals and a different hot leg.  The following string had one outlet from each GFCI LOAD side (also with labled paired neutrals)  Here is the final outlet in the string (the lower 120V one with 2 duplex 120s)  we kept the two phases on different color outlets (white and tan) but used a DUAL Pole 20A breaker with handle tie, so that when we shut off the box, both circuits were cut. (The Top outlet, NEMA 6-50 is on its own branch circuit in its own conduit).
The the shop now has Three of these 120V utility branch runs, with 2 independent hot and neutrals handle tied in three 20A 2pole breakers ( plus another 3 50A 2poles for the 240v circuits!).

To add to what Ed wrote, the neutrals must be clearly marked as to which neutral is with which circuit. Noting that it is THHN individual wires within conduit, you are not allowed to re-mark a white conductor to be a hot.  Therefore any marks on white wires are NOT remarking to hot, but simple markings.
You can also just bundle the pairs of wires.  Take care that you do this correctly if you're doing it after-the-fact.


How can I prepare this natural gas line so I can connect a grill? When we moved into our new house the builder mentioned there was a gas line coming out of the house. I'd like to use this to  connect a grill. However, looking at the gas pipe I don't see any kind of valve to shut off the gas (attached image).
Would I be able to just pop off the cap and connect the grill, or am I missing any other parts?

You would first turn off the gas at the meter. Then, if this pipe extending from the wall is indeed a gas line, you would take off the cap, clean the threads well, install suitable thread sealer made specifically for gas lines and install an appropriate gas shutoff valve. Install the grill gas connection down flow from this new valve using adapter fittings if necessary.

Then in case you ever need to disconnect the grill for winter, cleaning, replacement, moving or whatever else you can shut off this added valve without having to turn off all the gas in the house.

If you ever do disconnect the grill from the valve it would be necessary to cap off the open valve end for safety sake --- just in case someone comes along and accidentally turns on the valve.


How do I string a low voltage wire between two buildings? I need to get Cat6A to an outbuilding for network communication; underground is not an option.

I think I have an idea on the method: grounded pillars with a guyline and the outdoor cable.

What NEC section(s) governs this? Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of?

For network communications, you'll want to look at article 830 in the National Electrical Code (NEC).
Circuit Power
For what type of cable to use outside and entering the building, 830.40(A) and (B) list the type of cable based on the application.  Before you can determine what type of cable is appropriate, you'll have to determine if you have a low- or medium-power circuit. For this, you'll look at Table 830.15.

Cable Type
Once you've determined if you're dealing with medium- or low-power circuits, 830.40 tells you what type of cable you can use.  For medium-power circuits, you should use type BMU, BM, or BMR. For low-power circuits, you should use BLU, BLX or you can substitute cable types based on Table 830.154.

Location and Clearances
Since the cable will be run from building to building in the air, 830.44(A)-(I) should be followed.
Sections A-C deal with keeping network-powered broadband communication cables away from electric light, power, Class 1, and non-power-limited fire alarm circuit conductors.  This basically says that the network cable should be below these other types of cables, and that they should be kept away to avoid accidental contact.
Section D specifies clearances from ground (ground ground, not electrical ground), and says.

2.9 m (9.5 ft) — above finished grade, sidewalks, or from any platform or projection from which they might be reached and accessible to pedestrians only
3.5 m (11.5 ft)—over residential property and driveways, and those commercial areas not subject to truck traffic
4.7 m (15.5 ft) — over public streets, alleys, roads, parking areas subject to truck traffic, driveways on other than residential property, and other land traversed by vehicles such as cultivated, grazing, forest, and orchard

Section E says that if you're going over a pool, use the clearances specified in 680.8.
Section F calls for 2.5 m (8 ft) clearance, from any roof the cable passes over.
Section G says that if your cables do not have an outer jacket, don't attach them to a building within 900 mm (3 ft) of windows that open, doors, porches, balconies, ladders, fire escapes, or similar locations.
Section H says that the cable and supports shall have sufficient strength to withstand the loads to which they may be subjected. There is an exception that says if the cable is not sufficient to be self supporting, it can be attached to a messenger cable.
Section I specifies the minimum distance broadband communications cables should be kept from other conductors on buildings.

(1) Electric Light or Power. The network-powered broadband communications cable shall have a separation of at least 100 mm (4
in.) from electric light, power, Class 1, or non–power-limited fire
alarm circuit conductors not in raceway or cable, or be permanently
separated from conductors of the other system by a continuous and
firmly fixed nonconductor in addition to the insulation on the wires.
(2) Other Communications Systems. Network-powered broadband communications cables shall be installed so that there will be no
unnecessary interference in the maintenance of the separate systems.
In no case shall the conductors, cables, messenger strand, or
equipment of one system cause abrasion to the conductors, cables,
messenger strand, or equipment of any other system.
(3) Lightning Conductors. Where practicable, a separation of at least 1.8 m (6 ft) shall be maintained between any network-powered
broadband communications cable and lightning conductors.
(4) Protection from Damage. Network-powered broadband communications cables attached to buildings and located within 2.5 m
(8 ft) of finished grade shall be protected by enclosures, raceways,
or other approved means.

Grounding
Grounding is covered by 830.100, and says:

Grounding conductor shall be insulated and listed.
Grounding conductor shall be copper or other corrosion-resistant conductive material.
Grounding conductor shall not be smaller than 14 AWG.
Grounding conductor shall not be longer than 6.0 m (20 ft).
Grounding conductor shall be run in as straight a line as possible.
Grounding conductor shall be protected from physical damage.
Grounding conductor shall be connected to the grounding electrode in compliance with 250.70.


loosen a stuck screw I have a gas grill and planned on replacing the rusted burners. I have 2 of the 4 screws out, the other 2 will not budge. They are machine screw through the aluminum burner into steel. I tried liquid wrench, tapping, heat, grinding the sides of the heads flat to use pliers, and drilling through the center. nothing has worked, they refuse to budge. anyone have any suggestions??

The screws are likely rusted in place.

Drill the head completely off so you can remove the aluminum parts. Then try the following:

generous application of penetrating oil, followed by a 24 hour wait. Put vise grips on the shaft (pliers will not work) and use a hammer on the vise grips. You want a sudden movement here, not a steady turn
heat the part and then use the vise grips again. And by "heat" I mean glowing dull-red. Grab it with vise grips while still glowing.
the above may simply twist off the shaft, but that's step 3 anyway. Grind it flush with the rest of the metal, heat it up bright red, preferably orange, and let it cool completely. Do NOT quench - heating softens the metal, rapid cooling hardens it. Drill and tap a new hole. If there's too much corrosion in there, drill a bigger hole. If it's really nasty corrosion, go all the way through and use a bolt, and if it's bad enough that the bolt won't work, get a new grill.


What cause the wall damage? We just repainted the wall and fixed the plaster last November due to water damage. Recently, I discovered that there appears to have some water damage on the wall again. This damage is right below a window. But the window has been closed the entire winter.

Can anyone help me to figure out what is the source of water damage?

I checked the exterior and couldn't find anything that needs repair including the tuck-point. Can it be condensation? The window curtain is also closed at all time which may make the condensation worse.

Below is the first time we had water damage last year.

2/2 Update: I took some photos as Jack recommends. I can see the paint on the exterior window sill needs to be repaired. But could that be the reason? We don't know much about whether if the window is original.But it's an old house and the window seems old.

Exterior Wall

The company that I used to work for a few years ago had a saying about windows. There are 2 kinds of windows, windows that will leak, and windows that are leaking.

If you have the original windows to the house, some separation may have occurred at the sill level. whether it is at the corner where the side jamb meets the sill or where the sill meets the finished window sill or even someplace else.

Your problem is defiantly still water intrusion. Was before and still is. Since there is no pictures of the window itself, there is not a lot to go on. If the windows were replaced with new inserts. It may be where the new and old meet, or because of it. It is all still a guess with out more pictures. Need a few at the inside of the window jamb with the window open, at the inside corners and outside focused on the sill.


ecobee3 thermostat on old 2-wire boiler Situation:

2 lugs on boiler control, one I'll call "red" or "R" that comes from the built-in transformer with ~14v and one I'll call "white" or "W" which, when jumpered to R, turns on the boiler. Very typical old system, except weird voltage (maybe?)
transformer nearby powering doorbells that reads ~20-22amps from either lug
old thermostat with 2 wires, red and white.

What I've tried:
- run new wire (I'll call "common" or "C") from doorbell transformer to thermostat location.

connect R from boiler to Rh on thermostat, W from boiler to W1 on thermostat, C from doorbell transformer to C on thermostat. NO POWER UP of thermostat
connect R from boiler to Rc on thermostat, W from boiler to W1 on thermostat, C from doorbell transformer to C on thermostat. NO POWER UP of thermostat

I am going to buy a 24v transformer locally and try the same as above swapping it for the doorbell transformer (which is cryptically marked, but may be 16v, since apparently that is a common voltage with doorbells).

My concern is that if the idea is that the 24v transformer is simply serving as the common, the 14v coming from the R lug on the boiler is not enough power to power the ecobee. On the other hand, I could:

run both wires from the separate transformer to the ecobee call them "R from separate transformer" and "C"
connect R from separate transformer to Rh on thermostat, connect W to W1 on thermostat, and C from separate transformer to C on thermostat

The concern I have is that the boiler W lug is currently only getting 14v from its own transformer when the thermostat turns on, would upping that to 24v from the external transformer be a problem?

This feels like a weird issue where my boiler switch requires one voltage and the thermostat requires a different voltage. Is it possible that the boiler's internal transformer is just old and weak? That using a new 24v transformer to signal the boiler to start would be ok?

Hope I've explained clearly. I can take and add pictures if needed.

edit: I've sifted through many similar questions, but couldn't figure out if this particular question had already been answered

I was having the same problem...until I switched my multimeter to ACV!!!

I had purchased a fast stat common maker. I was measuring 12V across the thermostat terminals and R and C with my multimeter set to DCV, and wondering where I was going to get 24V from.  I found a 24V DC transformer and hooked that up to R and C thinking it would work but of course, no.  Honestly, I played with it for hours, then it dawned on me that I must be doing something wrong.

Nothing was working, ecobee wasn't happy.

Switched multimeter to ACV, and found that lo and behold, R and C on the boiler does give 24V.  rewired everything and from then on everything worked perfectly.

good luck!


Single sub-panel from 3 phase panel and the main breaker size I have an old 3 phase panel next to a separate single phase 100 amp panel that is being used by one residence. This space has been used as a carpenter shop and an office in the past.  Now it is being divided into two residences and I want to use the 3 phase panel for one of the residences by installing a single phase 120/240 subpanel.  The place that I will need to install the subpanel is in the same building but it is about 60 ft away from the three phase panel. The 3 phase panel is powered by three #6 wires from the pole and there is no main breaker in this panel. I believe the system is Delta and two legs are 120 and one is 208. The questions are:

Since the wire coming from pole is #6, what is the maximum Amp that I put in the 3 phase panel in order to power the sub-panel.  Can I use 70amp?
Can I use an entrance service cable ALU#4 inside the building above the existing suspended ceiling with or without conduit?
Is it better to connect the cable#4 to the 120 legs or 70Amp breaker?
I will use a 60Amp breaker in the sub-panel because I want the 60 amp breaker to trip before the 75 Amp in the main panel.
There is an existing three phase 60 amp breaker in the panel.  Can I use the two connectors that give 120 Amps?  Is it ok for me to put 60 Amps in the subpanel?

ThreePhaseEel has asked me a couple of questions. First, I want to thank him for the answer. As to the color of the 3 phase wires from the pole, all are green. I don't see any white either. The high leg is the first wire from left in the box that is 208v. The second and third are 120v. So I think instead of A-B-C I have B-A-C. In the box the color of Bus bar C has been painted red but the voltage of this bar is 120. The voltages that you are showing are correct.

What I don't understand is where the white wire from the pole is, although I see the white wire has entered the adjacent breaker box from the pole.

What should I do when I don’t see white neutral coming from pole to 3phase panel?  Is it possible there is only one neutral for both single and 3 phase panels? Can I use the neutral in single phase to connect to the single-phase 60-amp panel that is from 3 phase panel? How can you distinguish #6 PE from XLPE?

What is this balancing issue warning that some people are talking about when you want to install a single phase sub-panel of a 3 phase panel? Is it OK to have 60 amp breaker as feeder and as main sub-panel? Which one will trip first if there is a short?

Finally a question about conduit.  Can I use two 1.5” 90 degree elbows (like S shape) connected to each other?

First things first: do you see any orange wires, or wires with orange tape on them? If so, you definitely have what is known as a "high leg" or "wild leg" delta system -- based on your voltages, I believe you have this, which was used historically to supply both 3 phase 240VAC and 1 phase 240/120VAC to mixed occupancies, as in the illustration below (courtesy Wikipedia/Gargoyle888):

In this system, the secondary center tap forms the split-phase neutral, with the A and C phases as the normal 120V "hot" legs in the derived split-phase supply, and the "high" or "wild" leg, while normally the B phase (this is from 408.3(E)(1) in the NEC, by the way) sits unused as it has 208V to the neutral on it.

Now that that's explained, to answer your questions in turn:

Typical 6/4 service entrance quadruplex uses PE (XHHW) insulation rated to 75°C and is thus limited to 60A.  If you can confirm that the service entrance uses XHHW-2 (XLPE) insulation, though, you can run it up to a 90°C rating, which gives you a 70A (some sources say 75A) max ampacity.  The XHHW or XHHW-2 designation is part of the markings on the insulation, by the way.
Is the ALU#4 cable type SE(R) or type USE (also called SEU) cable?  SE(R) cable can be used for feeders indoors provided that the bare conductor in the cable is used only for equipment grounding purposes, as per 338.10(B)(2), or if all wires in the cable are individually insulated, as per 338.10(B)(1).  However, USE/SEU cable cannot be used for indoor feeders as per 338.12(B)(1), as its insulation is not flame retardant.
Connect the feeder cable to the feeder breaker (either 60A or 70A) in the three-phase panel; connecting a load directly to panel busbars is simply not cool.
While your thought of making it so the subpanel main breaker trips before the feeder breaker in the main panel is appreciated, selective coordination is a much more complex piece of work than simply using a smaller subpanel main breaker than the feeder breaker.  Here's an article on the topic if you want a taste of the gory engineering details that you'll have to work out to do this.  You can use 60A breakers for both the feeder and the subpanel main, by the way; however, there are no guarantees as to which breaker trips first into a bolted fault (hard short).
You can tap the A and C legs from the existing 60A three phase breaker in the main three phase panel and use them to feed the subpanel; this is the most cost effective approach, and doesn't require any inspection of the service entrance conductors.

Finally, keep in mind that 60A is a very limited amount of current for a single dwelling unit.  It can be managed, though, if you are able to run the heavy single loads (dryer, range/stove, hot water, and HVAC) using whatever fuel gas supply is plumbed to the building instead of using electric heavy-load appliances, or if the heavy loads for that dwelling unit are run directly from the three-phase supply -- although in some high leg services, the B phase is limited to a small fraction of the total load, which can make this infeasible.

Is there a reason the utility won't simply replace the obsolete high leg delta service with either a 240/120V split phase or a 208Y/120V three phase wye service?

Addressing the conduit problem, the neutral, and the balancing issue:

I would use conduit bodies instead of elbows, unless elbows are the only thing that fits in the space.  In any case, make sure you have no more than 360 degrees of bends between your pull points!
The neutral coming from an overhead pole is on the bare wire in a triplex or quadruplex cable, just about always.
Phase balance isn't typically worried about in high-leg deltas; it's a concern in a wye system due to unbalanced currents flowing through neutrals, which need to be sized appropriately to carry it.


Very slow leak out of main line at elbow out of concrete So at the top of that 90 elbow it is a very slow leak and into the concrete is another slow leak off same elbow... I tried soldering but it just falls right off/breaks even when it becomes a molten ball it rolls right off... could I just pump the hole and that upper part full of epoxy and call it good? Otherwise how do I go about properly repairing that... I tried uploading the image can't for whatever reason but the elbow part is a 90 degree up and it's partly in the concrete from the main line...

You need to explain what the pipe is for, what fluid is inside, where is it located. From your writing you are probably looking at having to do some excavating to gain access to the pipe. If you are trying to solder a line full of something like water, It shows that you have no experience to make the necessary repairs and it time to call for professional help before you do something that can hurt you or can't easily be fixed


Is my plan for a shed base on pre-cast concrete supports reasonable? Will this work for a 10 x 8 plastic resin shed -

3 deck pyramid blocks on a side (corners and in center of a side) and two in center.
Dig down 6 inches, tamp, gravel (have .5 to 1 in round stone on hand), level, deck pyramid on the gravel.
2 x 6 pressure treated wood, tie with metal angle ties.
At least several cross members as well.

Surface is 3/4 OSX 4x8.

Thanks.

What's the purpose of the two blocks in the center? Unless they're support a beam, they only effectively support the individual joists they're under. I would't use them. Worst case scenario they cause bulges in your floor.

The metal angles are also unnecessary. The fasteners you use to connect the joists (galvanized 20d nails or 3" coated screws), along with the floor sheathing, are adequate.

Finally, ask yourself whether you actually need the pyramids. Your PT lumber is rated for ground contact, and raising a shed that high makes for access challenges. You'd probably need to build a ramp at least 4 feet long. I've built two such sheds at my homes and simply rested the 2x4 floor framing on a washed rock base. If you do that, lay housewrap or poly sheeting under the floor sheathing to protect it from excess moisture.

I don't know what "cross members" are, but blocking isn't really necessary for an 8' span, in my experienced opinion.

Otherwise, I think you have a good plan.


How can I provide power to a switch and outlet at the same time? Since I've lived here my bottom floor bathroom has only had a switch but no outlet, so I decided to add a combo switch.
In my junction box I had one red wire, one black wire that was connected to the connected to the single light switch like this:

I also had to white wires connected to each other by a wire nut.
I followed the diagram and hooked the combo switch up like this:

I got power to the bath light but no outlet power so I decided to remove one of the white wires and connect it to the left bottom screw on the combo switch and boom power!
pats self on the back
Turns on kitchen lights, nothing.
Confusion.
Time to figure out what's going on so I take another look and say "well maybe both wires need to be hooked up to the screw so both things can work"
Found out very shortly as to why this is A BAD IDEA. So removed the wires and now I don't know what to do. From what I've read I can pigtail the 2 white wires and create one wire and connect that to the switch and I should be good right? Haven't tried it yet so I want to ask some people that have more experience than I have.
Also i kind of cut The black wire into 2 when I saw it was one whole wire and was on the original single light switch. I have now learned that's a bad idea as well.
This is how it was before i cut it

I have wire and pigtail connectors, so what now?

Those aren't spares
We get this all the time.  People see multiple wires bundled up in a wire nut, and they go "Oh, those are SPARE wires, I'll just grab one of them".
No, unless you're in a post-2011 switch loop, there are no "spare" wires in electrical.  Every wire has a job to do.
The other misconception we get a lot of is "Those wires in the box exist only to serve my project right now".  No, the wires have lots of jobs.
You need to tap, not break, that neutral
The switch doesn't need neutral, but the receptacle does.  And because the neutral bundle is already there, you need to tap it.
The vexation for novices is they rarely have the needed supplies: you need a neutral pigtail, and that requires having a 6" length of white wire. And a wire stripper and sometimes, a larger wire-nut.  The neutral goes to the silver terminal on the switch-recep.
Cutting the black wire was unnecessary.  However, it's no big deal; this is the always-hot wire, and it goes on the side of the switch that has 2 screws bridged with a tab.   You have 2 screws, you can just put 1 wire on each.
The switched-hot (red in your case) goes on the remaining switch screw,  the lonely brass screw.
Hold on though!  You need GFCI in a bathroom!
Unless there's a GFCI device protecting this location, you must use a GFCI+receptacle+switch device.  Fortunately for you, that is a thing.   You will not use the "Load" wires on the GFCI+switch.  So you only have 2 screw terminals to deal with, plus 2 pigtail wires.

You will need to pigtail HOT with a big, red or tan wire nut.  You will have 4 wires coming together:  the 2 blacks that  you split, plus one of the 2 pigtail wires out of the GFCI, plus a pigtail that goes to the GFCI's brass "Line" screw.
You will not need to pigtail neutral.  GFCIs can take 2 wires under each screw using a method called "screw-and-clamp" (read the instructions).  You can land the 2 existing neutral wires in the backwire holes under the GFCI's silver LINE screw, and that's done and dusted.
The remaining GFCI pigtail needs to go to the red wire from the wall, which is switched-hot.
The GFCI will pick up ground via its mounting screws, because it has a feature called "self-grounding" (via the mounting screws).  If ground exists, that is.
Again, the GFCI "Load" terminals are not used.  Using them is a huge production you don't wanna get into.


How can I best seal this gutter to the flat rubber roof of my garage? I have a standalone garage built into the side of the hill. On top is a rubber roof that appears to be in decent shape. However, there is a gutter around the edges that is not sealed to the roof. Obviously I need to clean off the roof and under the flashing/gutter edge. Do I need to take it all off and redo it? Or can I just clean under and seal it with something? What do I use? Roofing tar?

You can seal that gap quite effectively with a product called Eternabond - it's very popular in the RV world to seal roof seams, vents, windows, etc.  Simple to work with (it's basically like a roll of tape), waterproof and very durable.

Eternabond Website

Good source for Eternabond


How can I remove a dead bolt? I'm trying to remove a 16 yr. old Titan Dead Bolt. I have it disassembled but cannot get it out of the door. There is no strike plate on the door that I can remove. There is only a brass ring that the bolt goes through on the door side. How do I get the old mechanism out?

If I understand correctly, it is probably just a pressure fit. You should be able to pry it so it comes straight out the edge of the door from where the cylinder sits. This picture is just of a normal doorknob, but same principle applies.


Kitchen Cabinets over bare concrete floors I am installing kitchen cabinets and we are installing engineered wood after the cabinets are installed, floor installer said to just go right ahead and lay the cabinets over the bare concrete, which doesn't see right, anyway, the engineered floors will be approximately 5/8" to 1/2" in height, what would be the best course of action with this situation.  You help is greatly appreciated and with your answer, would you provide as much detail as possible on the exact procedure and process, please and thank you.

Find out exactly how tall the floor will be, and use spacers (maybe pieces of the flooring) to raise the cabinets the same amount.  Ideally, install them after the floor is done.  Otherwise, try to have the flooring extend under the cabinets.  Your carpenter will probably install quarter round trim at the base of the cabinets to cover the seam where the cabinets and the floor intersect either way you do it.