Which floor should be done first when updating a multi-family residence? I'd like to renovate a 3 family rental property but don't know which floor is best to start on.  The house was built in 1896.  The electrical was recently updated prior to purchasing it in 2008.  The kitchens and bathrooms are in dire need and this is the area where I am not sure if it is better to do the 3rd floor or the 1st floor first if I need to replace plumbing.

I also can't have all 3 apts vacant at the same time.  The 1st floor is leaving Jan 1st 2012 but paying until end feb due to breaking her lease 3 months early (may 2012) so I have 2 free months to start on the first floor.
Of course back then, they put all the bathrooms under neath stair wells.  The 2nd floor bathroom is the least attractive since it is so small and the sloped ceiling.  The 1st is then next worst and the 3rd floor bathroom is the most modern/attractive since it is not under a staircase.

What are some things to consider?  If I started on the first floor how do can I prepare so that when I am ready to refurbish the 2nd (and 3rd) floor bathroom(s) I can do it without ripping into the 1 st floor?  The 2nd floor is not vacant.

I don't think there's a good answer to this because plumbing needs a full stack, from the drain in the ground, to the vent in the roof. When you move utilities from one location to another, if you haven't changed the room above, you're stuck with lines on both new and old locations in the floors you've renovated until you're done with the renovation. And if you try to move utilities without first renovating the rooms below, you either have to open the rooms up below or run connections from the new back to the old location. In the end, I fear that you're going to spend more money trying to do it one part at a time rather than saving up until later and doing it all at once.

To partially answer your question, when we are building a new home, we construct from the ground up, for structure, and it's also the source of utility lines so they go the same way. When we finish the build, we go from the top down. This way we aren't tracking dirt over finished carpeting and scratching up freshly painted walls.


Can I safely leave male/female plugs exposed on a rooftop balcony? I have just purchased a set of lightbulbs that I would like to suspend on my rooftop balcony. Unfortunately, they do not come with a remote, so to turn them on/off I will need to plug-in/disconnect the plug to an extension cord. Do I need to worry about rain damaging either the male or female parts of the plug/extension if they are left disconnected on the ground and then it rains? Will that damage either part? If so, how is this thing usually handled to mitigate damage?

Safe?  Well anything plugged in outside is going to a GFCI protected outlet right?  So that should provide some safety when everything is wet.  The open female ends might trip said GFCI if they get really wet, so it would be good to cover those up or just turn off the circuit when rain is expected.

The other issue is corrosion and... spiders.  Most of the metal that plugs are made from will corrode over time when they get wet.  You will start to get poor connections which can lead to sparking inside the plugs which leads to even worse connections, etc.  The other issue is tiny spiders and other bugs getting inside the plugs and making them dirty on top of the corrosion.

They make small water resistant cases for extension cord connections.  They pop up at home stores during the holidays (for outside light strings), but some places carry them year round.  Keeping a case on the female end will help.  Using some anti corrosion spray and cleaning the contacts regularly will also help.


GFCIs tripping on their own I have GFCIs on their own breakers that will trip when lights on a separate breaker are turned on. To reiterate, the lights that trip the GFCIs are not fed from the tripping GFCIs. What could cause that?

Shared neutrals could cause this.  If the two circuits are both in a box together somewhere, and the neutrals from the two circuits are tied together, this could cause this problem.

It's common practice for DIYers (and some "professionals") to simply connect all the neutrals in a box together. If there are two circuits present in the box, simply connecting all the neutrals together is not proper. In the past, this normally didn't cause any noticeable problems. However, now that GFCI and AFCI protection is common, this bad wiring practice becomes more apparent.


How much Weight can a drywall ceiling hold I want to hang something and I want to make sure it doesn’t fall

It is recommended to not hang anything just from the ceiling drywall by itself. Particularly anything you have concern that it could fall due to its weight or safety of people or things under the hanging object.

Instead you need to locate the structure that holds the drywall in place and screw the hooks / brackets / retainers into that structure. The type of things you screw in would be dependent upon whether the ceiling structure was wood, metal rails or concrete. But since we have no guidance from you yet as to what type of structure you have suggestions are limited.


Room easy to warm with heater. But difficult to cool with A/C. Is this not insulation related? I live in an apt building in the 60's. I always notice that the room is always warmer than the outside in the winter time(even with no heating). This stays true in the summer time where it would be 65 outside at night and somehow the room can stay in the low 80's(if I leave A/C and ventilation off).

Does this indicate a well insulated apt?

It is really easy to warm up my apt with a cheap $20 electric heater in the winter. I would go from low 40's to 70's with the heater on full.

However, in the summertime, my window A/C unit struggles to even get the room to the low 80's. Granted, I am on the 2nd floor and have windows facing the sun most of the day.

Is it just a weak A/C, lack of airflow?

Meet solar load

When the sun beats on your house, it warms it up - winter or summer.  (more in the summer).  There's 1000 watts of solar heat per square meter that's square-on with the sun, and only a limited ability of your roof to shed that heat - eventually some of it pushes through the insulation.

This is a lot of heat, and you get the brunt of it being on the top floor.

Needless to say, this is your friend in the winter and your enemy in the summer.  And it's a big enemy in the summer.

Part of the value of solar panels is it essentially puts parts of your roof in shade, reducing/eliminating that solar load (depending on how well air circulates around the panels). Having the panels racked a foot or two off your roof helps with this.

As a renter, you have basically zero options to deal with this, unless you can sway the landlord somehow.


How does one protect electrical in a 2x4 flat studded wall? I'm notching the back of some flat 2x4 studs for electrical to run through (hence my wire is much less than 1.5" deep.

Does one just put two 1.5" wide nail plates side by side or is there a better way?

Note: I've found examples of double studs (1.5"+1.5" = 3") done this way, just never a true flat stud.

Note 2: Before someone asks, these 2x4s are for nailing only and non-structural so don't get distracted worry about the notch.

I use these behind large-volume boxes in 2x4 walls, to protect the entry point of the box. They should also work for your purpose. They are 5" x 8" self-nailing steel plates:

The example I got was Oatey 33899, but I'm sure there are other manufacturers. They are cheap (less than $1 each).
An example of a supplier, not a specific endorsement: https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=33899


Light fixture: 3 pairs of wires, two switches Upon changing a light fixture for my gf, light was only controlled by breaker, switches had no effect. There are three pairs of wires (one black, one white) entering the light fixture box. I removed all nuts b/c they were cracked and very old, and replaced with new ones (in hindsight...stupid). The wiring is very old with this stringy stuff wrapped around the core. Probable asbestos aside, on the fully functional old (but not pretty) light, light could be turned on/off at either switch. When new light was installed, I nutted off two sets and connected a third to the light. Realizing that switches weren't working, I nutted off the the pair I had been using (all three pairs now nutted) and tried to close the breaker and test for which pair was hot, but now the breaker keeps tripping. How can I fix this? Note, haven't touched any switches, and wiring is probably consistent with 50s/60s techniques.

One of the pairs, the one that you originally connected to the light, are the hot and neutral from the breaker box. When you connected them together, you created a short circuit. This is why the breaker won't reset.

Probably one of the others is the switch loop, connected to the light switch on the other end. You need to identify this. If you have a ohmmeter or continuity tester, do the following: WITH THE POWER OFF, connect the meter to the wire pairs until you find the one that opens and closes with the switch. This is the switch loop.

Connect one wire of the switch loop to the hot wire from the breaker panel. Connect the other wire to the hot side of the light. Connect the neutral from the breaker box to the neutral side of the light.

The question I cannot answer is what the other pair are used for. If you fix the light but leave the third pair disconnected (put a wire nut on each wire separately), are there any other outlets or light that don't work? If yes, you probably need to connect these wires also to the hot and neutral from the breaker box. This is used to carry the electricity to the other loads.

If everything is working, just leave these wires disconnected.

Tip: next time you disconnect wires, mark them all with tape to note how they were connected. This may save you a bill for an electrician's visit.


Why does my bath fan duct have dried grass in it? So I was exploring my bathroom fan setup with the intention of sending a new wire through the wall to put the fan and light on separate switches. In the process, I noticed that there’s a white plastic cover over the part of the fan that should lead to duct work, and behind that appears to be dried, dead plant matter. Note that I don’t have attic access.

What is happening here?

Could it be a rodent issue?

An exterior vent that wasn’t screened properly?

Some bizarre diy method of obstructing a duct that wasn’t properly vented to prevent moisture from going too deep?

Should I break off that plastic piece and start clearing out all the debris behind it? Or should I just close this back up, pretend I never saw anything, and just be happy the bathroom has a window I can keep open?

Yes, you have a rodent or bird nest in there. No, you shouldn't break anything.

That vent flap is simply hanging on two little integral pins or arms. You can see them in the photo. You should be able to tilt the flap into alignment with the duct, then flex it to release the arm on one side.

Do your cleaning and replace the flap. Now find out why your duct is open to the outside. It should probably have mesh over the opening to prevent pest intrusion.


Is it legal to install 3 prong outlet without ground in the State of Georgia? I just found out the apartment that I am renting have 3 prong outlets without being grounded. Is this legal in GA?

/update

Attached photo

/update2

I just tested the bottom-center ground terminal and top-right terminal. My DMM reads 86VAC instead of 124VAC. So it looks like the ground is indeed connected, but there is a leak somewhere. My building technician came and said I dont' have to worry about it because the 3rd prong is just there to add extra support for extra heavy power cords and refused to talk to me more on this issue.

A 3 prong outlet with no equipment ground(2wire) needs to be protected by a GFCI and the protected outlets need to be labeled with "No equipment ground" to be legal. Since 2014 code you can add a ground wire that goes back to the same panel seperately from the existing cable then they will be grounded in compliance with the latest code. Both of the above methods are code compliant methods of updating your outlets.


Hot weather AC Efficiency - a nightly cold-soaking head start? Live in Southern Florida, so we use AC nearly year round. We live in a block house, concrete tile roof, fairly new, well insulated. We do not use a programmable thermostat as we are home most of the time, and when not it is not predictable times.

However... recently had the AC replaced, but it had not completely failed. We got the house down to 75 before they started about 8:30am, and they finished at 6pm and the house was only about 79 degrees. Gave me an idea...

From 1am to 10am (+/-) will set it to 75 and over-cool a bit while the outside air is about 20-25 degrees cooler than daytime. The house has a large heat capacity, and cools and warms slowly. That ought to hold us under 78 until mid-late afternoon, so the unit would not run (or not much) at all during the hottest air temperature time.

In other words, try using it to shift the biggest cooling load into the most efficient time, in the wee hours, and during the least efficient time try not to run it (hardly) at all.

Does this sort of cold-soaking work reasonably?  Any guidance as to whether it will be an improvement, or are we making it worse by the cooling below 78, rather than just keeping it at 78 all day.

It's all about thermal mass

You say your house is concrete block and insulated, now where's the insulation?  If the insulation is outside the block, then you are using a technique used in passive-solar construction called thermal mass.  **, Trying to have a large thermal mass in the house which resists change in temperature.   If the insulation is inside the concrete, different deal, then it is your friend in the morning and your enemy at night.

If it can store/ resist temperature change for 12 hours, then this is worth doing.

Otherwise its just yet another excuse people make up when they want to crank the A/C.

The other thing is, your thermal mass may be different than most.  But if this worked for most people, the power company would be telling everyone to do it.  They want to sell you power, sure, but the hardest thing for them is producing peak power.  Anything they can do to move power consumption from the peak to the valleys (night/morning) they're all about.

Based on what you say, I don't think a 3 degree swing will matter much.  The stored energy is degree difference x mass, and a small temperature difference doesn't give you much storage.

There are better ways to do this

First, the best way to avoid interchanging with 120 degree air is interchange with 50 degree groundwater.  If you have groundwater in your area that is near enough the surface to be worth pumping.  You have to buy a condenser made for this, of course.  It works particulary well with heat pumps, because groundwater has a usable temperature all year, even in cold places.  You make yourself 2-5 watts of heat for 1 watt of electricity, the other 1-4 watts come from a very large RTG called planet Earth.

Second, you do the same thing using dirt itself, but the coolant loop must be much, much larger, because it needs to interchange with a lot of earth.

Third, if your house isn't built with a thermal mass, you can get your own thermal mass with a huge insulated tank of water.  At night, you use cheap evening electricity to chill the water, by day you use it to interchange heat, as above.  Nowhere is it written the tank of water can't have a concrete skirt, a shallow end and a diving board... But it does need to be well insulated.


Stranded wire gauge too small for push-in connector(USA) I'd like to use these push-in connectors along with the stranded wire connections inside a light fixture.

3-port push-in connector

I'm using these connectors because space is limited inside the fixture. Two romex bundles come into the fixture. For each connection to the light, I need to connect two solid wires (from the romex cables) to the corresponding stranded wire inside the fixture.

The problem is the fixture's stranded wires are too small to work with the push-in connector. Is there a proper way to easily upsize stranded wire (like some kind of soldered terminal) such that it will work with the connector? (as opposed to splicing the stranded wire to a short solid jumper with a small wire nut).

This cannot be a problem

The connectors are listed for a wide range of solid and stranded wire.  A wider range, in fact, than you are allowed to use inside fixtures, which must be no smaller than #18 for mains voltage - that's according to UL.

Now, if the fixture is not UL listed (or other NRTL), don't use it.  Especially if it's one of those foreign jobs obtained off Alibaba, AliExpress, eBay or Amazon.  Those are predominantly dangerous junk, and obviously they have not the slightest regard for our safety codes.  CE and CCC are not proper testing labs such as UL.

If it is a fixture of your own construction, that is between you and the AHJ, but you will at least need to retrofit the internal 120/240V wires to #18 or larger.


Furniture calculations I make camp furniture.  I have been using pine for quite some time, but would like to shift to hardwoods.  My questions is thus:  How do I determine the equivalent strengths between 2 boards?  For example, how does a 1" X 8" piece of red oak compare, strength and durability wise to a 2" X 8" piece of pine over the same distance?

I know how the pine holds up, I have been using it for over a decade.  I'd just like to know how to determine if going to the thinner oak is practical before I drop a lot of money on a design/material combo that isn't going to work.  Thanks for your help.

As Derrik mentioned, the Sagulator is probably your best bet. The topic has been covered fairly well in the woodworking stack exchange. The Sagulator is designed for static loads, e.g. shelves, whereas chairs are going to be taking dynamic loads, but the relative strengths should still apply: if you put in your yellow pine vs red oak, the ratios should apply for dynamic loads as well.


Cantilevered pillar TV mount extension My fireplace is flanked by 24" depth bookshelf niches.
I want to install a flat-panel TV so that it is flush with the fireplace, so 24" off the back wall.
I'm aware that "full extension" mounts exist that can extend to that full distance. I will probably use one of these to mount the TV. However, I want to be able to pull the TV out into the room (past being flush with the fireplace) and then rotate it toward the viewer. So the combined total distance will be greater than what one on these mounts can offer.
I'd instead like to install a permanent horizontal "pillar" cantilevered off the back wall of the bookshelf. This will bring the TV forward about 20"; the rest will be covered by the extension mount. The near-closed position of the mount will have it flush with the fireplace.
Rough idea below. Studs on the left, pillar, mount, TV.

How should I construct this cantilevered pillar on which I will mount the TV?
The pillar needs to extend forward 20 inches or so. The weight of TV + accessories will be 100-150lb. The mount may extend the TV forward another 18".
Smaller/simpler is better, rather than constructing a large box or major bracing. Metal or wood materials will be considered. The back wall is standard American drywall over 2x4 studs.

I would use two or three "max brackets" with a simple wooden structure attached. Select the largest size that fits the depth you need (factor in the wood face plate thickness). I like black as they aren't so conspicuous.

Mount these with three 5/16" x 2-1/2" lag screws each, into framing. Then screw 2x4 rails to each, on edge, and a 2x8 rail across the front, using the same screws. Pilot with a 3/16" bit. Like so (side view):
                               __
                              |  |
 ____________________________ |  |
|        2x4 top rail        ||  | <-- 2x8 (or 3/4" plywood) face plate
|__________________________  ||  |
|                    *        |  |
|                *            |__|
|            *
|        *
|    *
|*
|

Use lag screws into the horizontal rails and to attach the front plate also. Those in the front plate should be countersunk just below flush so they don't interfere with the TV mount.
If your TV mount point is low on the unit (like with my LG glass model), Use 3/4" plywood instead of the 2x8 and extend it downward 12-16". This will allow you to move the brackets up and out of sight. You might also upgrade the top rails to 2x6 to reduce the torque of the front plate on their ends. If you see too much flex, run diagonal braces up to the sides of the top rails:
 ____________________________  _
|                  \    \    || |
|____________________\    \__|| |
|                    * \    \ | |
|                *       \    | |
|            *             \  | |
|        *                   \| |
|    *                        | |
|*                            |_|
|


How to safely clean rust and prep on a section of HVAC ductwork before insulating So I have a small section (about 1.5 ft) of non-insulated ductwork with some rust right above my HVAC blower/furnace in the basement.

The rust seems to be caused by the water that sweats on that section when I'm running the AC.

I bought some hvac insulation that I could put over it, but I wanted to clean off the rust with a wire brush before I do so. My question is: do I also need to use some sort of rust stop or rust cleaner before I do so? And, if so, what kind of chemical/product would be safe for the ductwork? I don't want caustic or strong chemicals to make it into the ventilation system spreading fumes around the house or damaging equipment.

Do you think using loctite rust neutralizer would be safe?
https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/henkel/TDS-1381192-US-Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Bottle-8-fl-oz-2018-04-11pdf

Additional Update: Henkel corporation returned my email and said:

  We would not recommend that the Loctite rust neutralizer be used in an
  enclosed system, such as, HVAC duct work.

I have used naval jelly for many years and have had great results. It does, however, have that small California warning about being linked to cancer.

Vinegar also works just about as good as the naval jelly. Brush or pour it on and wait ten minutes and wipe off the area. Good luck.


Alarms on Doors that have Access to a Pool I am finishing up renovating my pool and I changed the configuration of the barrier fence I previously had. I now use my house itself as the 4th side to keep the pool deck open (since our kids are grown). The county/state code indicates I must install door alarms on all doors that allow access to the pool (I have 7 due to big sliding doors opening at various points).

While I don't agree with being forced to install these alarms in MY house where no children live, I must do so to pass the inspection. I am a do-it-your-selfer and heavily into home automation. I have my existing home security system, motion and existing door/window open sensors integrated into my home automation system, so I wanted to use this same automation system to meet the pool alarm requirements. I want use a RaspberryPi or ESP8266 Wireless module to handle the override button presses next to each door. Ideally rather than a blaring alarm, I would like a notification sent to my phone or watch. I could setup a blaring alarm just to pass the inspection.

Has anybody had any luck getting their local government/county inspectors to budge on this archaic building code? (By archaic, I mean there are more modern ways to get your attention other than an obnoxious 85dB alarm -- like mobile phone, watch, etc)

I am trying to avoid purchasing seven $50 "official devices" for each door just to pass the inspection. If my DIY system meets the regulations, but is not a UL certified alarm device, will that pass inspection?

The specification I found is listed below:

The relevant parts are from http://www.floridahealth.gov/environmental-health/swimming-pools/_documents/cpsc-safety-barriers.pdf

  All doors that allow access to a swimming pool should be equipped with
  an audible alarm that sounds when the door and/or screen are opened.
  Alarms should meet the requirements of UL 2017, General-Purpose
  Signaling Devices and Systems, Section 77, and have the following
  features:

  The alarm sound should last for 30 seconds or more and start within 7 seconds after the door is opened.
  The alarm should be loud: at least 85 dB (decibels), when measured 10 feet away from the alarm mechanism.
  The alarm sound should be distinct from other sounds in the house, such as the telephone, doorbell, and smoke alarm.
  The alarm should have an automatic reset feature to deactivate the alarm temporarily for up to 15 seconds, to allow adults to pass
  through house doors without setting off the alarm. The deactivation
  switch could be a touchpad (keypad), or a manual switch, and should be
  located at least 54 inches above the threshold and out of the reach of
  children.

Not the answer you are looking for, but:
Loud Alarms are What You Really NEED
Assuming that the premise is a sound one, that people need to be warned of unexpected/unauthorized entrance to the pool area, a loud alarm is the right answer, not an electronic notification. A few examples:

It is all too easy to ignore texts/notifications/etc. "If my boss/spouse/buddy texts me one more time about that project/trip/party, I'm gonna scream" followed by ignoring the next 30 minutes of little beeps by just swiping them away to look at "later". Kid wanders out...disaster.

A new cleaning crew comes in the day before your big pool party. One of them asks, "can I bring my 3 year old, I'll keep an eye on her, she's a really quiet kid" and you say "sure". You go out to pick up munchies. The cleaning person starts vacuuming in the living room. The kid wanders through the door (left closed but unlocked because the crew is cleaning "everywhere")...disaster.

You are out at the pool having fun. You hear a honk and go out front to greet the guests. He has the radio on in his car and you decide to listen to the last 2 minutes of the big game, radio blaring, watches/phones ignored (my day off, I'm ignoring texts), kid who was watching TV inside wanders out to the pool to find you...disaster.

You can argue whether any alarm is needed. But once an alarm is needed, an App won't substitute. Not when accident to disaster = 3 minutes or less in the water.
A number of people have pointed out that for a child even 3 minutes can easily cause major damage or even be fatal. I am not suggesting "up to 3 minutes and everything is going to be just fine" - quite the opposite, I am using that as a very short time period to indicate just how little time it takes - and therefore why an alarm on entering the pool area, hopefully a minute before falling in the pool is vitally important.
For those suggesting "put up the stupid alarms and then unplug/remove battery/etc. after the inspector leaves", please don't do that!.


GFCI breaker trips, but GFCI outlet does not? Little background before I ask question. I pulled a lines from main panel to outside subpanel, some 130 ft away. Put double pole regular breaker in the main panel (60A). In the sub panel I placed on 15A double pole GFCI breaker and one regular 15A sinle pole breaker. Single pole breaker line feeds to GFCI outlet. That outlet never trips, I can test it, I can reset it, I can put load on it, and no problem. I even tested it with outlet tester. No problems. Now if I turn on other double pole breaker, it trips immediately. If I leave that twisted wire from the breaker connected to the white bus, but disconnect white wire from my breaker, my breaker naturally does not trip. I measure voltage and it shows 282V between the poles on the breaker, and 141 between each of the poles and white bus. Then I thought, maybe the breaker is bad. So I took out double pole, and installed single pole GFCI breker, and same story with that one too. It immediately trips when I plug in white wire.

What else can I try and what could be the issue. I don't think that wire is damaged as pulling it was very smooth, and it is #6 AWG wire, and most of the wire is above ground.

Any ideas? How can I trouble shoot it further?

Figured it out. My mistake. The breaker has 3 slots and pig tail white wire. I assumed that I needed to run one more white wire and connect it to the middle slot and neutral bus, not just by the pig tail white wire. It turned out that I needed to connect only pig tail white wire to neutral bus. Unfortunately I misplaced the package for the breaker and did not read instructions prior to installing it.


What do I do with the red wire on the new switch if there are only three wires in my box? It looks like white should go to white, black to black, bare copper to green.  What do I do with the red?

Uh, nope.

Looking at the large view of your picture, the wiring diagram is clear, and that switch will not work in that location without re-wiring.

You would appear to have a "switch loop" where the black (usually) is carrying hot from the supply at the fixture and the white (usually, and it should be red-taped but often is not) is carrying the switched hot back to the fixture. This was common and met code years ago, but does not meet current code, which is designed to support switches like the one you have as a new switch, that need a neutral to support some power use in the switch itself.

That will only work as is with a similar mechanical switch.

The switch you have is expecting to get hot, neutral and ground, and then to run the switched hot to the load out the red wire. Problem being, you don't have a neutral in that box.

You either need to use a similar mechanical switch, or you need to replace the wire from the fixture to the switch with a cable that has 3 wires and ground (typically black, white, red, bare) so that there is a neutral in the switch box.

If you use a mechanical switch, do the next person (it could be you) a favor and put red tape (or use red paint or marker) on both ends of the white wire (the one at the switch and the one at the fixture, which should be connected to the fixture's black wire, or, if fed abnormally, to the incoming hot wire at the fixture.)


How do I prevent runoff from bar soap damaging the caulk in my shower? I recaulked part of my shower about a year ago. After a couple of months, I noticed that the caulk had worn off just below my in-wall soap dish, where the extra soap runs down the wall. I recaulked, but have once again run into the same issue. I'm using DAP Kwik Seal Plus, which is designed for bath applications. I am making sure to thoroughly clean before recaulking, so I do not believe this has to do with a poor application job.

Has anyone ever run into an issue like this before? Is there either a different product or a better way to apply this caulk that will resolve this issue?

I am assuming that you have cleaned off the surface thoroughly. I would probably try to sand the area where you want the caulk. I would only imagine that if there is any soap residue that the caulk would just slip away. Curious if you tried that, I'm sure you have, if not I hope this helps.


How to finish edges of drywall between exposed wall studs I want to leave wall studs in my beach cottage exposed.  My first choice for in between is drywall panels.

How do I handle the joints where the drywall will butt up against studs?  Do I tape and sand them--or is there some alternative?

Before deciding on this look, we insulated walls (rigid insulation) from the inside.  I was planning to address this issue by attaching the drywall to a small frame to be added inside the studs.

Comments or advice?

Why not get some lauan plywood and use that instead? I think it would be easier and cheaper. If you're leaving the studs exposed then the wall must not be a firewall of any sort so you should be okay to use another type of wood. I think you'll end up with much better seems butting up to the sides of your studs. You can also paint it if you desire. If you wanted the studs to be a different color/stain I might do those first then put up your inside material.


What options are available to hide a TV in the bedroom? I'm having a wardrobe fitted in the master bedroom of our house, and I'm in a bit of a conundrum as to where I'm going to put the TV.  The room itself isn't big, when the wardrobe's fitted it will look something like this:

The wardrobe isn't going to be big enough to fit the TV inside as well as having enough room for the storage we need.  The TV size is 40", we watch a lot of TV in the bedroom and, while I wouldn't mind if I had to  reduce the size a little (perhaps as low as 32"), I'd prefer not to have the extra expense.

We've looked over several solutions but unable to find anything suitable.

Wall-mounted, swivel TV bracket
We feel this would look untidy as we have several boxes connecting (Sky box, blu-ray) with wires.  A wireless HD solution would fix this too, but again, it's even more expense.
Ceiling mounted TV lift
This is the dream solution, but those things are ridiculously expensive.
Ottoman with TV lift
Slightly cheaper than the ceiling mount idea, but taking extra space at the end of the bed and shrinking the available floor space.
Bed with TV lift at the foot
We have a really nice bed and we're reluctant to change it.  Of course, this is also an expensive option.

I had an idea of my own, but I'm not sure how viable it is.  I wondered if there were any mounts which would allow the TV to lift up into a horizontal position and slide backwards into the wardrobe, laying flat on a shelf above the hanging rails.  This would mean we would have to live without sliding doors, but it seems like a neat solution to the problem.  I've seen this bracket, but it's only for small TVs.

Does anyone have any better ideas, or a way to implement my own idea?

EDIT

The dimensions of the nook, which will effectively be the external space of the wardrobe, are about W74" x D36" x H95".

This is how I solved exactly the same problem in my bedroom:


How can I determine the STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating for my condo walls and ceiling? I work out of my condominium and generally like to have music playing throughout the day. A few nights every week I work late, sometimes until after midnight, so I'm thinking about soundproofing my office to ensure my neighbors won't hear my music.

My music is rarely annoyingly loud, but for a few albums every week I do like to turn it up more than normal, and for my own peace of mind I'd like to make 100% sure my neighbors aren't hearing anything.

Before I make any decisions, I'm trying to figure out the STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating for my building/unit so I have some idea for the level of soundproofing that is needed. I live in Redondo Beach, CA and these units were built in 1970. I know there are current minimum STC ratings required for new construction but I'm assuming that these have changed over time. I've been trying to find information about STC rating requirements for my area in 1970, but no luck so far.

Is there any way to determine my unit's STC rating without paying a specialist to test it? Or can I find the minimum STC rating required for buildings in Redondo Beach during 1970? Is there a website out there that would have this information?

I lived in Southern Calif. in the '70s, I'm pretty sure there was no STC standard for multi-family residences at the time. The only requirement was for certain party walls to be fire rated, and not necessarily every party wall. There are publications available that show the STC ratings for various constructed assemblies. You can find an assembly that is similar and get some idea of the rating for your assembly. However, you cannot claim your assembly achieves a certain STC rating unless it is built EXACTLY as the published example. If there is any variation, you cannot claim any STC value at all without having it tested.

Still, reviewing the various assemblies will give you an idea of what needs to be done to achieve a reasonable rating. BTW, much like water proofing, there is no such thing as soundproof, only degrees of sound resistance. Note it is called a Sound Transmission Coefficient. The implication being some sort of sound will be transmitted in all cases.

Perhaps the biggest issue with applying sound treatment to an existing building is your options for eliminating flanking paths is very limited. Even if you build a very effective sound wall, unless you address how the sound can travel through the adjoining floor, ceiling, and sidewalls, it may have only minimal effect.

That said, I applaud your consideration of your neighbors. Doing something is certainly better than doing nothing. But do not think you can blast your audio system with impunity just because your sound treated the one common wall. Effective sound treatment requires addressing ALL the related construction adjoining the wall in common.


Are there screws made of materials that should not be exposed to heat, smoke or propane? I've been assembling a propane barbeque grill that came in a box. It came with an exact variety and number of screws to be used in assembly. But it's actually missing one screw.

I found an old screw in my box of miscellaneous metal leftover things. It's the right size and shape.

But I'm concerned about using an unintended screw because it might be a different material. Could it possibly be unsafe or unreliable around smoke, heat, propane, ash etc.?

Could it have collected or developed unsafe material/compounds after many years of sitting around?

Yes some metals are not safe for use with food and heat can make the issue worse.
Cadmium comes to mind as it is a byproduct of zinc and when getting inspections on food lockers this is one of the metals they check for (many screws that are galvanized contain cadmium) cadmium is a heavy metal and ends up in our blood like lead this is why lead free brass and solder are a big deal in our water systems. Would I be concerned about 1 screw I can’t say but there are metals that should not be used according to the FDA.


Can you replace upper kitchen cabinets without removing tile/glass backsplash? Can upper kitchen cabinets be removed and replaced with new ones without damaging a tile or glass backsplash? If not, when the backsplash is removed, can it be done without damaging the granite countertop?

Yes, it should be possible to remove the cabinets without damaging the tile.  However, the replacement cabinets will have to be the exact same size, or you'll have some tile work to do (adding or removing tile).


Proper method to send wiring through the roof? I'm planning on a security camera install. All of the connections will start from the 2nd floor and go to some cameras on exterior at the ground level. The 1st floor has a roofed deck that extends out from the main house. Because of this I'll either need to bring the wires through the 1st floor roof, or run on top to the edge (~7ft from the side of house).
What is the best way to send the wiring from the 2nd floor down to the ground level?
I might be using a conduit on the 2nd level, and then transition to exposed wires when under the covered deck.
Looking for suggestions on how to approach this other than putting a hole in the roof and ceiling.

The best way is to go around the roof, not through it. As soon as you have a hole, you are providing a path for water. You can seal it, but it's always going to be a weak spot. Additionally, if you ever need to redo the roof, it will be a pain to deal with the wires that are now in the way.

Better to come out of wall, then go up to the roof. You still have to seal the hole to keep water out, but you don't have to deal with water pooling/sitting on it. Use outdoor caulk (which is UV resistant) to seal the hole. You can also use expanding foam if it's big or you really want to keep the insulation factor up, but even that should be covered in caulk on the outside (because it's not UV resistant).

If you're using a bare wire, then you should also use a drip loop: this keeps water from running down the wire and driving into the hole.

If you use conduit, be sure to keep it all glued and sealed to keep water out. You can use a cable gland at the end where the cable comes out to keep it sealed.


Why is my cottage wall bulging outwards? Purchasing a cottage and trying to figure out how much work/money it'll be to repair an odd bulge in the wall.
The south side wood wall is bulging out near the center. Although not clearly visible in the photos it is certainly visible in person. Check the pink arrow and the photo with the level. Anyone ever come across this kind of thing before?
From our inspection report:

Depending on how the 2nd floor floor joists are tied into the sloped
roof there could potentially be a lot of diagonal pressure being
exerted on top of the short vertical wall. Clearly, it was not able to
withstand these forces and bulged outwards. One option might be to
straighten the wall out and simply add a concrete pilaster at the
exterior to prevent recurrence - although this might not be the most
cosmetically pleasing option.

Disclaimer: Consulting with an engineer is highly advisable.
The roof is slowly pushing the wall outwards. If you have not purchased this cottage yet then either walk away or low-ball them. I foresee that subcontracting a proper fix easily reaching $10k.
You need to do two things:

Straighten the wall out
Prevent the wall from bowing out in the future

To straighten the wall out I imagine you would need to attach a bunch of steel cables on the inside of the cottage and tension them enough to pull the walls inward.
For preventing future bowing you have two options really:

Brace the roof from the outside
Tie the roof together from the inside

Whether or not this is a project you can take on is up to you.

Option 1:
The red lines are extensions of the roof line; you can use pressure treated wood or preferably steel beams. The white circles are concrete footers.

Option 2:
The red line is a bracing inside the house which should prevent further separation and bulging. There should be several of these running throughout the house.

I'm not sure why the inspector suggested a concrete pilaster since your foundation does not need bracing but rather the exterior wall but then again I'm not an expert.
Good luck to you!


How should I insulate my partially finished, currently uninsulated basement? I am in Alabama, climate zone 3. Half of my basement is finished, well at least it has a dropped ceiling, wood panel walls, an air supply and return, but no insulation. There is an uninsulated partition wall with some gaps near the AC ductwork dividing the basement roughly in half. On the other side is an incidentally heated space containing a water heater, furnace, and dryer. It also has a single car roll up garage door. All the flooring above is hardwood or tile.

The basement is roughly 20'*60' using cinderblock construction. One of the long walls is completely below grade while the other is completely above grade. All the below grade walls have some sort of vapor barrier installed.

How should I go about insulating this space? I'm thinking foam board would be the best way to go. Should I insulate the section of wall that's below grade? And what should I do about the vapor barrier? Also, is there any good way to insulate the garage door? And finally should I add insulation to the ceiling of the incidentally heated unfinished side of the basement? The side of the house above that part of the basement gets noticably colder.

Pics of everything:
https://imgur.com/gallery/6Mc8Oxa

I have a similar setup as you.  Same Climate Zone (Georgia, USA) and similar type of basement and walls.  Since the vapor barrier could cause water condensation in the wall if you go with drywall, you'll want to remove it.  I am going to seal my wall with a heavy masonry sealer like DryLock first.  Then use foam board because it would be mold resistant.  If you use furring strips I would probably paint them too to inhibit mold growth.  I would insulate all the exterior walls.

You didn't say if you were going to refinish the area after removing the paneling, but if you do, consider waterproof/water-resistant materials like mold-resistant/mold proof drywall and PVC trim. Basements in general are notorious for water infiltration and mold damage, so this would help mitigate it.  Also, if this area is to be made into a livable, usable space where people could spend some time in, consider getting a radon test done as well.

You didn't state what material your garage door is made of.  If it is wood, I would probably just replace it with an insulated metal door.  If you have a metal door that is un-insulated, you can cut foam insulation inserts and fit them between the panels.  For looks you could also screw new sheet metal rectangles over and paint it if you don't like the foam to be visible.

Also, I'm not sure about your ceiling in the unfinished side of the basement.  You mentioned a drop ceiling.  If there is drop ceiling in that area, then use insulated drop ceiling tiles. You can make your own out of luan plywood and some thin foam insulation if you want.  if not, then you should be able to use batt insulation to insulate the ceiling joists.


Is untreated aluminium suitable as an LED heat sink? I'd like to have a 5m LED strip lighting directed upwards from around 1m height (would be behind a desk and other furniture). My idea was a simple U shaped aluminium profile (so it can be screwed to the wall and will provide cover preventing directly seeing the strip), but I'm not sure how to put up a profile with screws when you have only 30 mm space between the two parallel sides of the U profile. So now I'm thinking an L shaped aluminium profile like this

with the 'vertical' side 'outside' (so not on the wall) for covering, and holding in place with something like this

Is an untreated aluminum profile suitable for cooling LEDs? If so, should I get the 2 mm or the 3 mm thick one?

What treatments can they do with aluminium? Should I try to look for some with treatment?

Any ideas how to better solve the problem?

Thanks!

The way you screw the U is to drill a hole the size your screws need through BOTH sides, then a hole big enough for the screwhead/screwdriver through one side, following/enlarging the first hole, only on one side.

Or just the screw-sized hole through both and screws 30mm longer.

Or angle the mounting holes & screws into the back from the open side of the U.

I doubt you need to "treat" it with anything.


How do I put a brick wall where an exterior window is? I have a detached garage with fairly large sliding windows (previous owner installed these) with a brick exterior.  I want to remove the windows and close up the wall with bricks.  What do I need to do to accomplish this?  Will I need to remove some of the brick surrounding the windows?  I expect I need to be able to put up some exterior wall material plus some moisture barrier.  I'm new to DIY home improvement so any input would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Tom

Two ways to tie in the new brickwork. Either carefully remove the 'half' bricks up each side of the opening and build into them as you go (but the mortar will always 'jump out' at you in the 'toothings').

Or, build inside the opening as it is and use a propriety metal tie in bracket and a screw or two. You'll need one each side every few courses (some go every 3 and some every 6). You have the option to set this new brickwork panel back (or forward I guess), 10mm works okay. This has the effect of making the new brickwork look like a feature panel and a little more 'deliberate' than going flush. Some folks leave the joint around the new brickwork empty and fill it with a caulk and backer foam to remove the risk of the mortar cracking around the new panel. In my experience if the brickwork is built up in warm/good weather this is not likely to be much of a problem.


In the UK, what is the classification scheme for outbuildings such as sheds and garages? As per title, I am building a large wooden shed with large enough doors to be ABLE to get a car in IF required, but not for permanent use a garage.

Under UK planning laws there are slightly differing conditions for these.

So, what would it be considered as? a shed or a garage?!

You'll need to check your local codes. In the US, most building code sections begin with a list of definitions, and I assume it's the same elsewhere. If the difference between a shed and a garage is legally significant then they probably define it. It could be based on size, intended use, access to utilities, proximity to other buildings, access to a driveway, construction technique... really anything your local building regulator has decided.

If this is a structure that might need a permit or inspection, you could also just call the relevant office and ask them.


Densheild tile backer board use advise needed I'm in the process of doing my bathtub walls and I'm thinking of using Denshield™ boards. My total area is 55 sq ft. I found 4'x8' Denshield™ sheets so I will need to buy two sheets to cover my area (32+32=64 sq ft).
I will end up with having two seams at the top of the shower that will later be covered by the tile (see image).

The manufacturer says that there is no need to use a liquid membrane (like Redgard). Instead, I just screw them down with corrosion resistant screws, tape and thin set the seams, then use 100% water-proof silicon caulk in the corner seams. They said that it's guaranteed to last for a long time.

My concern:

Are Denshield™ boards better than cement boards?
Is it a good plan to have only one seam in the middle area at the height of 4' from the tub deck and one seam in the right area also at the height of 4'?

Whether one product is "better" than another is really subjective. What I can tell you is that denshield is a more advanced product, eliminates the need for a membrane, and I find it easier to use than cement board for sure

However, I would get four sheets instead of three. Then you only need to have three vertical seams, total: two corners and one along a stud.
Vertical seams in sheet goods are objectively better. They will be better supported, and you'll have minimal seams (as that seems to be the likely concern).

Plus, with no horizontal seam you don't need to be concerned that water can run laterally and seep through a poor seam.


How can I figure out what material my row home's interior and party walls are made out of? I'd like to hang some shelving on the wall in my kitchen that separates my home from my neighbor's. How can I figure out what material this wall is made of? The home was built in 1950. The party wall is completely solid if you knock on it with your knuckles and there's only one small metal object to be found with a magnetic stud finder; I'm assuming a screw or nail that was never cleaned up. It's smoothly finished and painted. Taking a hammer to it results in a lot of resistance and the tiniest indentation.

The interior walls are also sort of a mystery. I've hung two ceiling fixtures so I actually can describe them a little better: They're roughly a half inch thick, crumble when you try working on them and are hung directly to the joists in the ceiling. No lathes makes me think drywall but the crumbling makes me think otherwise.

This has always made it tough to do any work to the house. It's impossible to make a clean cut in the interior walls since they crumble and the party walls are very intimidating.

Sounds like plaster walls and the ceiling is gypsum boards covered with just a skim coat of plaster. My house in the midwest US has a similar setup. It was during a transition period (40s-50s) from lathes to gypsum boards so the walls have lathe and then rough and finish plaster but the ceilings have gypsum boards covered with a thin finish plaster.

To hang pictures and stuff, I typically start the hole with a drill to get through the harder plaster layer and then tap the nail in the rest of the way. For heavy shelves in the closets, I've drilled holes and used those plastic inserts you tap in with a hammer and then put a screw into.


Vacuum Excavator for crawl space What do people think of this method for excavating a crawl space:

http://www.mvtimes.com/news/2007/11/21/vacuum-excavator.php

I read the article you linked to.  Looks like it would work if you have the right soil conditions, a lot of time, a lot of help and the patience of Jobe. One concern I would have is if you ran into large rocks or wet soils.  We have excavated several buildings over the years using the railroad ties and jacking method followed by a mini excavator. Here in the glacial soils of the northeast, we often run into large boulders that would be impossible to remove without heavy equipment.  The other caution would be to pour concrete or an other stable footings for the new post supports. This would be tricky if they are done one at a time as you excavate deeper under the building, especially if building has already settled and is not level at the start.  Some level reference would have to be maintained throughout the process. This is not as easy as it may sound, and would require some jacking, sistering of floor joists, or a new set of carrier beams etc. along the way. This vacuum method may be OK for small buildings, but could be troublesome or dangerous for larger buildings or for inexperienced builders.  Be careful.


NO COLD WATER after installing pump. Have to run hot water to get cold water I installed pump and I am getting hot water at all faucets. My problem is contrary to why I installed pump. I now have to run and waste HOT water to get cold water. I have misplaced or lost my installation instruction paper. I feel like it may have been something in that paper that would have helped me correct that issue.Any help you can send my way will be appreciated.

If the pump you installed was one that is located at the "point of use", when the pump runs it pulls water up the hot supply and pushes it back down the cold supply. I do not like this type of system since the result is something similar to what you are experiencing. Your only recourse is to make sure that the pump shuts off before the hot or warm water is pushed into the cold supply pipe. You may need to change the setting of the temperature sensing control to prevent this. You may need to play with the adjustments to get the best results. As I said earlier, these type pumps are a pain in the a## and sometimes are more trouble than they are worth.


What is a reasonable expectation of decibel reduction when sound proofing? Background

I'm currently renting an apartment in a very old building and have a lot of trouble sleeping because of the noise.  My apartment is underneath the main entry way; and people come in and out of the building at all hours of the night.  I also have neighbours directly above me and hear a lot of noise from them as well.

I've spent some time collecting data with a cheap analogue sound meter.

General noise from above - 60dB
Loudest bangs from above - 70dB
Foot traffic from hallway - 75dB
Loudest door slam from hallway - 80dB

I don't have any problems with subwoofers or loud music being played.  I do know that low frequencies are harder to block out, but I believe most of the banging noises I hear would be low frequency.

I've been doing research on sound-proofing options available to me.  Aside from the noise, the place is perfect and I'll be in this general area for at least another 4-5 years (so I'm willing to invest some time and effort).  My landlord does not care what I do, so long as I can 'undo' it when I leave.

I'm considering constructing a large 9-foot x 11 foot 'room-within-a-room' to become my bedroom; but I'm questioning what level of sound-reduction I can expect?

My budget is around ~1000USD / ~800EUR (for the construction; I'll worry about disposal later).

Apartment Details

Ground floor (carpet over concrete)
Three neighbours - above, left and right (I never hear anyone except the neighbours above)

Proposed Construction

I'm open to suggestion here - but this is what I had in mind.  I'll frame the room with 2x4s - using staggered stud construction (including the ceiling).  I was debating skipping the floor; but I'm not sure about that.  Then 5/8ths" drywall for the outside walls/inside walls and filled with insulation.  I'll include a door (a heavy external/outside door).

If that's not quiet enough - I figured I could apply an adhesive like Green Glue and another layer of drywall on the inside of the room.

I also have a lot of acoustic foam.  I don't think it will be very effective with this frequency range - but I intended to throw it on the roof of my 'box'.

I was hoping to avoid taping/sanding the drywall; so my plan was to fill the joints/corners with acoustic caulk.  I'm also worried about ventilation (since I intend to sleep in here).

This is a scale model of my apartment (where the green room is the to be the sound-proof room)

My Concern

I've been reading about soundproofing and things like STC level (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class).  But I've also read the STC level does not indicate low-frequency performance well.  My room might achieve STC level 60; but I might might only get a 20dB reduction in low frequency banging.  I don't want to do all this work and spend all this money if I'm still going to have loud noises I can hear.  This chart illustrates what I'm talking about

I'm not sure if I understand how dbs work; so maybe my math here is wrong...but...I feel like I need a to get the loud 80db door slam down to 30-40db level for this to be worth doing for me.  Depending on the frequency of the sound; I think the chart would be able to tell me what I can expect - but I don't know what it would be.

TL;DR

With a $1000 budget - how effectively can I 'block' 80dBs of relatively low-frequency sounds? (IE would I perceive it to be 70db or 50db or 20db?)

And, given my situation what is the best way to do it?

First off, a reality check; not trying to discourage you, just trying to set some expectations here:

First off, the actual pressures you're dealing with are very small. Absolute pressure is measured in Pascals; 1Pa = .0001psi. Your 80dB sound is inducing pressure changes of approximately .2Pa = .00002psi (that's two hundred-thousandths of a psi).
Second, the percentage changes you need to make to these small pressures are very large. The Bel scale is logarithmic, based on a "reference" pressure. One Bel - 10dB - represents a tenfold increase in pressure. So, a 90% reduction in the pressure of your 80dB sound only reduces it to 70dB; to get the sound level below 10dB (you or I would call that "silence"; in laboratory conditions the threshold for human hearing is 0dB) would require reducing the pressure differential by 99.99999%.
This level of isolation is possible but extremely cost-prohibitive in most applications; million-dollar recording/mixing studio spaces are built with lower levels of soundproofing than this. You normally see this level of isolation in medical and sound engineering research labs, where they literally build a room within a room, suspended on vibration-dampening struts, with a near-vacuum maintained between outer and inner walls of the chamber.

The upshot of all of this is that, no, a reduction in sound of 80dB is just not possible on a $1000 budget.

Now, all that said, don't lose heart. First, you seem to have much more ability to make changes to your rented space than the average apartment dweller would have (though I'd double-check your rental agreement; if you're required to return the space to its original condition - or pay damages - when you leave, think carefully about studding in a new wall).

Second, much smaller reductions in SPL can make a very big difference. Soundproofing that reduces an outside noise by 20dB makes the noise sound only a fourth as loud. This is easily doable in your budget (add some sound-insulating material such as mass-loaded vinyl between the existing wall and an extra sheet of drywall or wall covering), add a sound-insulating curtain or three, etc and you'll start hearing results pretty quickly. Two layers of mass-loaded vinyl will reduce most sounds above 125Hz by 18dB just by itself.


Filling garage floor control joints TL;DR:

How should I fill this V shaped, shallow control joint in my garage most effectively?
Joint rough dimensions:

5/8 in. wide at bottom
1 in. wide at top
3/8 in. deep

Do I need backer material or can I just caulk it?
The joint has been painted over with an epoxy but it is an uneven surface

Should I rough up the sides of the joint prior to applying?
Will self-leveling sealant adhere to the roughly painted joint?

Details & Photos:

I need advice on how to caulk the control joints in my garage. I'd like to fill in the joints to make it easier to clean and make the floor a little smoother. That will help with my rolling hydraulic jack, etc.

I've done a bit of research so far and it seems like I need to get (something like) Sikaflex self leveling sealant for the control joints.

My primary issue is this: the control joints are not very deep. Do I need to use a backer rod when I caulk this or should I simply fill it the way it is? I have also heard of "silica sand" being suggested.

The joints appear to be about 5/8 in. wide at the bottom and 1 in. wide at the top. They are approximately 5/16 in. deep (maybe 3/8 in).

Additionally, the floor and joints have been epoxied and I am wondering if this will have an impact on the caulk's ability to adhere to the surface.

Here are some pictures:

Width of the joint from the top (perspective slightly skews measurement):

Width of the joint from the bottom:

Depth of the joint:

View down the joint:

Any pointers are greatly appreciated!

Update: Project Complete

Thanks for the help! Sorry I can't award more than one answer!

I finished caulking the floor almost a week ago and it turned out all right! I went a little overboard in some spots on the joints and should have used less sealant, but it will get the job done functionally. The sharpest looking areas have caulk just below the line of the joint.

Joints with tape around them after caulking:

Completed joints:

My garage is rather small - roughly 19.5' deep x 16.5' wide. I ended up using about 3-1/4 tubes of the 29 oz. Sikaflex Grey self leveling sealant. The joint is mostly 3/8 in. deep but I noticed some rough spots in the joint where it was closer to 3/4 in. This wasn't widespread, so I didn't address it and thus far everything has held out just fine.

I also used some extra painter's tape on the outward facing end of the center control joint to create a dam for the caulk. This is the end of the joint closest to the garage door that doesn't abut a wall; it's just open to the outside.

The caulk spilled out of the painter's tape "dam" a little bit, but I cut the spilled caulk off the tape when it was partially cured about 9 hours later. When the caulk is a little green it's pretty easy to cut with a utility knife. I've left the dam in place and plan on removing it tonight or tomorrow as I wanted the caulk to cure all the way through and not spill out the bottom.

Finally pulled a car into the garage on Sunday, so about 3-1/2 days after I caulked it. The caulk does seem to attract tire marks, but that's all right. The garage floor is intended for use.

The purpose of backer rod is simply filler so that less caulk is required. This is desirable for (at least) two reasons: Caulk isn't free. Also, it cures because of exposure to the atmosphere; if applied too thick the caulk at the bottom of a joint may not be able to cure. Your joints look shallow enough that backer rod won't be useful.

The self-leveling sealants from Sikaflex are great. However, there's something to beware of: after the material is applied it remains flowable, albeit slowly, for some time. This can result in unpleasant time-delayed surprises for the beginner.

One is related to foam backer rod -- it floats. In case you use any foam fillers, ensure they're stapled, glued, or otherwise well-attached. Otherwise you may find that after some 10-20 minutes the foam floats up to the surface of the sealant. You poke it back down; it slowly surfaces again.. eventually the sealant sets with at least some of the foam visible.

Another surprise is that the sealant will drain, slowly, into large cracks. It looks like you do have a few of these. One way to deal with this is to plan on multiple applications. Apply sealant directly into/onto the crack, just enough to cover it, and wait for that to cure. Some may drain into the crack, but it'll coat both sides of the crack and the gap will be smaller. After one or more repetitions of this the gap will shrink to the point that there's no more appreciable drainage into the crack. Go ahead and fill the entire joint at this point.

After you've been working for 5-10 minutes go back and look at the area where you began. If the self-leveled surface is lower than you like then you can add a little more material. It'll settle and blend in. If you wait too long (the first application has skinned over) then the second application would sit on top of the first rather than blending in.


Are wooden pallets decent wood? What type of wood are most pallets made from? Are they worth the trouble - removing boards, removing nails, etc?

It depends what "worth it" means, because I would say it's much like other hobbies or activities that one can do. Is it worth it making your own candles? Your own quilts? Your own tri-level deck out back? That's something a stranger can't easily quantify.
Economically, unless your time is really cheap (eg. you're young/old), it's not worth it from a materials standpoint. You can expect to spend 10 mins on a board in aggregate, after pulling nails, hand-sanding, sorting, and dimensioning. That's if you have basic tools. A planer would cut that down, but that's an expensive piece of gear, and pallet wood "surprises" can drive up the consumables cost of planer operation, negating some of the savings.
Locally, I can buy a new 1x4 that's a couple pallets long for $4. So the labor cost of one hour of work (6 finished boards) would be $12 if you replace lumber. The lumber would be in much better shape though, so consider that. If you want crude and cheap, a 1x3x96 "furring strip" is only $2; or $6/hour for comparable quality.
Money aside, it can be a fun limitation for advanced woodworkers, a cheap/free source of material for hobbyists or crafters, or the only source for those with limited means. The resulting creations are a class of their own; a pallet-wood ____.  It does generate some "bragging rights" if you have something really nice that you got "for free" or "upcycled" or "rescued", depending on the type of bragging you need.
I would say that if you want the challenge, go for it, but if you just want cheap wood and don't mind "character", use furring strips.


Wiring double-insulated (class II) pendant into earthed circuit I have two pendant-style lights above my kitchen countertop, which are operated from a single light-switch, which I would like to replace with fancier fittings.

I live in the UK in a house built in 1960, and as such the lighting circuit is not earthed. A friend of my father's, who is a very experienced electrician, advised me that this is no problem, just buy double-insulated light fittings as we renovate each room.

My new, fancier pendant lights are therefore double insulated. When I have gone to remove the existing pendants, however, I discovered that they are seemingly earthed (they were installed when we had our kitchen renovated last summer).

Furthermore, these fancier lights come with their own ceiling fittings, and being double-insulated have a terminal box for live and neutral incorporated into these fittings, meaning that I cannot simply wire them into those currently in-place.

In the attached photo of  my understanding is that I would simply wire the brown and blue cables from the three-core into the live and neutral points respectively on the new fittings. I do not know what I should do with the earth wire.

In attached photo of  I am more uncertain, as there are multiple wires connected to a bank of terminals in the existing ceiling fitting, which is not present on the new double-insulated fittings.

If it's a matter of simply replicating the existing wiring configuration, then my understanding would be that for each of the three terminal blocks, I should disconnect the wires from the existing fitting, re-connect them to a 'choc block' terminal block, which should then be inserted into the ceiling cavity (after being wrapped in insulated tape?), wiring-in a connection to the L/N terminals in the double-insulated fittings where appropriate. I still do not know what to do with the earth wires.

My questions are:

Are my understandings of how to wire my double-insulated fittings to pendants one and two correct?
What is the correct way of dealing with an earth wire when connecting double-insulated light fittings?

It's quite likely that I will try to find an electrician to do this regardless of whether my present understanding is correct or not; definitely so if the solution is not as straight-forward as what I've described above.

However, I'd still really appreciate any answers, firstly to learn, and secondly, in particular in regards to question 2, so that I can be confident that an electrician has done the job properly. It's my experience that electricians in my area of the UK, especially younger ones, are somewhat mystified by double-insulated fittings, and so I'm concerned about getting a bodge-up.

The UK splice blocks make it really simple because they give you exactly the number of splices you need for almost every case. Notice how your splice groups are 2-3-3.   Watch this:

Switch loop; also feeding another lamp (optional)

Always-live coming in from supply (brown, or in old system, red)
Always-live out to the switch  (typically brown)

Switched-live coming in from the switch (typically blue taped brown)
Switched-live to cable to the next lamp (brown) (optional)
Switched-live to this here lamp (brown)

Neutral coming in from supply (blue, or in old system, black)
Neutral to cable to the next lamp (blue) (optional)
Neutral to this here lamp (blue)

Switch loop; also supplying always-live to something else

Always-live coming in from supply (brown, or in old system, red)
Always-live out to the switch  (typically brown)
Always-live to cable to the next usage point (brown) (optional)

Switched-live coming in from the switch (typically blue taped brown)
Switched-live to this here lamp (brown)

Neutral coming in from supply (blue, or in old system, black)
Neutral to cable to the next usage point (blue) (optional)
Neutral to this here lamp (blue)

The only case you'd ever need to splice elsewhere or double-stack is if you had a "tee" arrangement.


Mould removal - how bad does it need to be before cleaning isn't enough? The kitchen faucet in my apartment has been leaking above the counter for years, but every time I complained to management about it nothing happened and it wasn't enough of an annoyance to make me push them since I could just wipe down the counter afterwards. What I didn't realise was that there wasn't a proper seal to stop water running through the faucet fixture and into the exposed ~2" thick MDF on the underside of the counter, at least until there was an unidentifiable lingering odour that made me investigate things thoroughly. Now there's a pretty nasty mould infestation around the whole faucet/sink area.

I've redoubled my efforts to make management actually do something about this, which will remove the source of moisture, but I'm unsure whether I'll be able to get them to take care of the mould properly. I'm concerned that the mould is fully permeating the bulk of the counter and any surface cleaning isn't going to accomplish much.

How much work should I expect to be done to fix this? Is anything less than replacing the whole countertop going to be effective?

I'd expect you don't have much to worry about.  Mould isn't great but it exists outside in the nice fresh air as well.  There are some moulds that are quite toxic but you'd need to do air sampling to find out if you have high enough levels of spores to pose any health concerns.  Are you sure you even have mould and not algae?

There are cases where you should be more concerned if you are immunocompromised, only have one lung, are an infant or elderly, etc.  If you are constantly sick then you might want to spend more time worrying but then I'd hope you are living in a place with no carpet as well.  You could buy yourself an air purifier with a hepa filter.  A lot of moulds/dust mites/fungus will grow on dust in carpet or even on walls.

Once you have the leak fixed, make sure it gets dry and just seal the mdf underneath with some kind of paint.  I'd bet the majority of kitchens/bathrooms have some amount of mould / fungus / algae growing in them.  MDF especially the old kind contains formaldehyde resins which off gas vocs but also impede the growth of biological agents like mould.

Do you have a picture of your mould?

The epa states that you should call a professional in if you have more than 10 square feet of mold - which would be a lot.  This doesn't sound like that.  The worst thing is to have mold growing in your bedroom as that is where you sleep.  One other thing I'd recommend is to have a hygrometer in your unit.  If the levels are ever over 55% you should buy and run a dehumidifier as you will have mold growing in your carpet / furniture / etc.  Some mould under your sink is only a little bit worse than mold in your plumbing pipe which is pretty much guaranteed.

How big of an area of mold are we talking about?

This link talks about the different kind of molds and states that the black mold which is the one to worry about virtually needs constant flowing water
https://www.tuck.com/sleep-and-mold/

This is the WHO guidelines for indoor air quality.  http://www.euro.who.int/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/43325/E92645.pdf

This is a good reference for establishing what mold remediation companies consider clean and it seems like unit that have not had flooding issues typically fall into the clean category.

https://inspectapedia.com/mold/Airborne_Mold_Count_Number_Guide.php

No amount of mold is good for you but since it is ubiquitous you should strive to limit your exposure.  Molds live on plants, in the soil, in your carpet, in leaves from trees, you can't really achieve no exposure without living in a bubble.  From the description in your case you have a small amount and you have limited exposure given the location.  I'd stick with my recommendation, get the faucet leak addressed - maybe they'll decide to replace the counter/sink at the same time (can't hurt to ask).  If they don't scrub it out as best you can (wear a 99.9 mask), let it dry and encapsulate the area (an oil based paint would likely do the trick).

This renters guide for mold seems to have decent advice.

https://inspectapedia.com/sickhouse/Rental_Unit_Mold.php


Putting Doorway into Loadbearing Wall I would like to put a doorway into a loadbearing wall by removing 1 stud.  My measurements between what would be the remaining studs is 30.5 inches.  I was hoping to do a header using header hangers into what would be king studs (the remaining studs), to avoid taking up door width with jack studs.  From the chart in the link below, it indicates that would be acceptable as a replacement of two jack studs (one on each side).  However, as I read the chart, I am supposed to have two jacks on each side.

This doorway would be on the first floor of a two story house which I believe is 36' feet wide.

I just want to confirm that I cannot use header hangers instead of jacks before I consider whether a much smaller door is worth it or if I ditch the idea entirely.

Proper size of header to support new door in load bearing wall?

There is no reason to compromise the proper installation of the appropriate width door just because you just want to remove one stud. Do it right and remove two studs if necessary and install additional king studs and jack studs compatible with the rough opening. Done properly the header can span the jack studs and carry the load like it is supposed to. No metal hanger brackets are needed if this is done the correct way.

The only real additional effort involved with doing it right is that you will have to open up a bit more of the wall from one side. And that leads to a bit more drywall work to patch it back up --- that is unless of course the wall was already open from one side.


Can I safely connect 10amp flexible/stranded wire to a 15amp connector which in turn is connected to 2.0mm solid house wiring? My issue is that I have a home automation dimmer that has tiny, 1.0mm connectors. They're too small to use with the currently installed solid 2.0mm (sometimes 2.5) house lighting circuit wiring.

The lighting circuit is connected to a 10amp breaker.

My question is whether it is safe to do the following:

Can I connect the house wiring (2.0mm/2.5mm) to a 15amp (or higher) rated connector (the common screw type or one of the WAGO connectors) and on the other end connect a flexible/stranded 1.0mm wire which in turn is connected to the dimmer switch?

My electrician indicates that as long as your connectors and wires are all rated 10amp (breaker rating) or higher it should not be a problem. The reverse, i.e. using say a 5amp connector would lead to heat and a fire hazard.

Any input appreciated!

Caveat: Definitely take the advice of a local professional electrician.

Yes, You're Okay Doing This

This is assuming that your dimmer is rated for your household current and that you don't attach any loads to the dimmer that exceed the capacity of the wire, and your circuit breaker protects the wire either way. This actually strikes me as an interesting issue with things like dimmer switches in the U.S. They virtually all come with stranded leads permanently wired in, for attachment to the "mains" power, and I've never seen leads bigger than #18 (1.0mm) or maybe #16 on a residential dimmer switch. It's obviously safe, and it's implicitly covered by code because the wires are an integral part of a tested and approved device, just like all the little #18 wires inside your electric stove and oven.

Since you're in an area where the electrical standard is the same as the U.K., you're looking at a 230V/50Hz dimmer without permanently-attached leads something like this one or like this one, I presume?

But it would be the same as if you were using a 230V/50Hz manual dimmer like this one.

In short; yes, it is safe to use a wire nut or WAGO connector to connect a smaller wire from your dimmer switch to the house wiring, presuming you're using an appropriately-sized connector. Loose connections are the enemy, leading to heat and fires.

If your professional electrician said everything is okay as long as every wire is good for at least 10A, I'd believe him/her. In the U.S., you would never use #18 wire (1.0mm) for running household circuits, but it's used all over the place in appliance cords, light fixtures, things like dimmer switches and inside of appliances, and is good for at least 10A (actually, it's good for 14A at 90°C/194°F).

Paper auto-ignites somewhere around 450°F (232°C). In other words, the rules are appropriately conservative on the side of safety, no matter where you live. And you're putting this wire inside a box where it isn't directly exposed to ignition sources (paper, wood). So you have just enough smaller wire inside the box to connect the dimmer to mains power, and the wire is good for 14A at a maximum operating temperature of 90°C, the entire circuit is on a 10A circuit breaker, and your local electrician told you that as long as all of the wire is good for at least 10A, you're safe. I believe you're good to go!

The only way it's going to get up to 90°C in that box is if you've made poor/loose electrical connections in there. Even putting the box in direct sunlight all day wouldn't make it hotter than that.

Why?

You have a presumably tested and approved AC-powered device (your dimmer), intended for your locale (your local voltage), with power terminals that can only accommodate wire of a certain maximum size. Those power terminals are the size they are because the device plus the attached light draw only a limited amount of power. They will draw as much power as they are designed to draw, and no more. Connecting it to a bigger wire or bigger breaker will NOT cause it to draw more power.

You could wire that dimmer switch straight to the bus bars in your service panel and it would function normally. Circuit breakers don't change the voltage on the wire, they just protect the wire from overheating. If you hook up a bigger load than the breaker's rating, the breaker will trip before the wire gets so hot that it starts a fire. So the circuit breaker is ultimately about protecting human life from fires.

It is also perfectly safe to connect a larger wire to a smaller breaker. In some cases, you want to do exactly that. For example, if you have a long circuit run, you will get voltage drop over the circuit, but voltage drops less with bigger wire.

It is NOT okay to connect a smaller wire to a larger breaker than it is rated for.

(EDIT removed reference to AWG, but it's easy enough to find references to both British/Imperial Wire Gauge and American Wire Gauge, and the find table comparing both and showing amperage ratings for both if anyone is interested).


Low slope roof (2:12) - acceptable for metal roofing? I'm designing a garage for my backyard and I want to obscure my view as little as possible.  I've read that asphalt shingles aren't great on a 2:12 slope, so I'm just planning on using metal roofing.  This should be adequate right?

As for installation, I'm planning on felting the entire roof, sealing the edges where one piece meets the other with roofing tar, then screwing the whole thing down.  Is this appropriate?

I live in Alberta, so snow is a given.  Also, the garage won't be insulated or heated.

It depends on the product. Some are rated down to that low a slope, and some aren't. I've seen 3:12 specified as the minimum for many, but there are some that allow 2:12. Make sure you choose one of those. As for installation, just follow the instructions. Don't try to get creative. The people who design these products are very explicit about how they are supposed to be installed. Screwing down through-fastened panels is the easy part; pay close attention to the trim.


How deep do I need to sink a 6 x 6 post to support a 150 lb fire hydrant that will sit on top of it? I live Arlington, Virginia, US, and the frost line is two feet deep.  I was able to obtain an old (no longer usable) fire hydrant from the local contractors that are replacing them in my neighborhood. The fire hydrant weighs about 150 lbs.  I want to sink the 6 x 6 post in Quikcrete (multiple bags) and then trim it so the hydrants sit on top of it level with my patio.  I have 3 dogs and thought they would like having their own fire hydrant to pee on.

Even the worst of soils can support 1000 lbs/sf and there is no requirement to set something ornamental like this below frost line if you are willing to straighten it out once a decade or so.  Think about how most people do pedestal birdbaths in your area.

Now let's think of a scenario where we might want to do things a little better.  If you think someone is going to tie something to it that will induce a lateral load like the corner of a taut shade awning or your kids are going to use it to attach one end of a slackline or zipline to it..  Or maybe you want to prevent the neighborhood punks from uprooting it with their truck and absconding with it.    It these cases you'll want to go down a few feet like you are describing.  I'd say installing it like you'd do a typical fencepost in your area would handle the awning scenario.  You'll probably have to go down 3-4 feet to stop a truck.


Why is my refrigerator leaking? The make of the unit is GE and below is a link to a picture of the label on the back. There aren't any other markings anywhere. I'm guessing this is an older model.

Here's a close-up of the ceiling of the refrigerator where the water seems to be leaking from.

I've read that the possible cause may be a clogged drain hole (with ice) and that leaving the unit unplugged for about four hours may do the trick. So I've unplugged it for now and am waiting. Thought I'd upload these pictures here to see if anyone can help further diagnose the problem.

From GE knowledgebase

Refrigerator - Icemaker Leaking or Dripping Water
If your icemaker is leaking water into your ice bucket or onto your
floor, several things could be the source of the problem. Check the
following items:

Be sure the water line fittings are secure.
Check the water valve for leaks.
See if water is leaking from the fill tube extension.
See if the defrost water drain is cracked or overflowing.
Check for water on the exterior of the refrigerator case.
See if the refrigerator is leveled. How to Level a Refrigerator.

Note: If the icemaker is leaking water onto the floor of your home,
turn off the water supply to your icemaker. This line is usually
located under the kitchen sink. Locate the cold water line under the
sink, and look for a small 1/4" copper line attached to it. Where
these two lines meet, there will be a saddle valve. Sticking out from
this valve will be a post with a wire running through it. This is the
shut-off valve. Turn this valve in a clockwise manner until it stops.
This will shut off the water to the icemaker. If the water line is not
connected under the sink, it will be in the basement or crawl space.

I would check items 4 & 6.
For a clogged defrost drain GE says

Top freezer refrigerators:
Water under the vegetable pans is the usual evidence of a clogged
defrost drain tube. Most top freezer models require some disassembly
to access the defrost drain tube. We recommend that you contact
service. If you would like to schedule a service appointment, please
contact GE Consumer Service at 1-800-432-2737 or schedule a service
appointment
on-line.

Which isn't much help if you want to fix it yourself.
Here is an image of the cabinet assembly

And the unit parts (notice the drain tube is circled).

Images from Appliance Parts Pros.com
WARNING: If you are going to take the thing apart, make sure you unplug it first.


How can I hide an HVAC line on the blank face of house with a chimney? We have an exterior HVAC line running up the center of an exterior wall to a second floor unit. The face in question is the side of a colonial style, and has a two story chimney with a taper at the top of the first story. Currently the line is only protected by an ugly galvanized steel cover. These are the only two features on this face of the house, with the chimney about one third of the way from the rear of the house, and the HVAC line approximately dead center. There is no eave overhang on the side, and the line only runs to the top of the second floor, not all the way to the roof.

We are re-siding the house with Hardie Board (cement board), a slightly expensive job. The contractor recommends (and I agree) that putting the HVAC line back inside the walls is a bad idea, since any HVAC repairs would require tearing off siding (brand new, and expensive), or putting on an exterior cover (ugly).

The current plan is to frame out an exterior chase (there is no interior chase from crawlspace to attic), and run the lines in there. While it's the best plan I've heard of yet, I'm not a fan of some random column of siding running up the outside off the house. We discussed running the chase along the chimney, but the jog at the top of the first floor will make that weird, plus require HVAC line relocation.

Are there any ways to "hide" the exterior HVAC line, or to camouflage the exterior chase so that it doesn't look likely an out-of-place mistake that will lower appeal? I'm open to literally any ideas, but can say that we've already ruled out building an internal chase (too complicated/expensive). For reference, this is a nice-ish house built in the 70's/80's, in a decent part of town - there are no historical or aesthetic restrictions, just an upper-middle-class house that were trying to take good care of.

We ended up having the line rerouted to beside the chimney and will use a line-set cover to disguise the run and make it look similar to a downspout.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have had the line run over to the corner of the house, up the edge by the downspout, and into the attic near the edge of the soffit (finishing the line run in the interior). This would have better camouflaged the cover, as it does look incredibly similar to a downspout, but is rated to carry HVAC line.


Fishing extra wire through old Elec box, that has wires already I'm fishing 14/2 wires through some electrical boxes (outlets, and switch boxes), that all ready has wires in it. I'm not hooking it up to the electric, I am just fishing the wire, and waiting on the electrician to hook up elec.I never fished before. I did check housing codes, and what wire to use. They told me to keep old wires, and fish the new. Do I punch another hole in the old box to add more wires in it? Any other tips?

To just answer your question, yes you can punch out a knockout to add new cable to a metal junction box. You will need a connector similar to the one below to secure the cable in the box. There are certain limits on how many wires you can run into a box so you'd have to check on that with whoever is assisting you in this. If you're running wire into a plastic box, there are tabs you can bend in to insert the wires, no additional connectors are required.


Is convenient/needed to relocate while asbestos is removed from external panles in my flat? In my building there are some works happening. I asked about asbestos to contractors and they told me probably won't be a problem because asbestos was banned from UK long time ago.

But now seems they have found some in external panels in all windows. They told us in a letter

  "The removal of AIB asbestos can now be carried from outside of
  building. However we still need to gain access to your property to
  seal around the panels. This should take 10-15 minutes to complete..."

After researching online and I have read that AIB asbestos is one of the worst. The contractors are watering the walls and told us to close the windows so I guess they have already started to remove AIB asbestos from other flats.

I have 5 months kid and I am worried about this. Should I arrange that my family moves away for some time during asbestos removal?

What is the risk involved?

I have some reasons to flee:

AIB Asbestos is the most dangerous
2 adjacent buildings with 6 floors each one and 4 flats per floor makes 48 flats.
My kid is only 5 months old.
Even if the removal is from outside they need to protect each flat.

And some reasons to feel safe...

Seems that they are watering the walls to avoid having dust and preparing plastics to protect each house.
The removal is going to be from outside.
The works are ordered by local council.

The risk is someone could inhale asbestos fibers and develop health problems far into the future. It's impossible to estimate the level of this risk, yet you need to do so in order to decide whether to vacate or not. Furthermore, if fibers could enter your flat, even if you vacated during the work, the fibers could still remain upon your return.

If the contractor doing the removal work is fully qualified to do this sort of work, the risk to your family should be negligible, yet there is always some risk even if infinitely small. Only you can decide if you're really comfortable with this or not, and what an appropriate response is. This is of course difficult without hard data, but there just isn't any.

One thing you could do is some airborne monitoring. This is often done as part of removal procedures anyway. I've no idea of the costs, and it only reflects levels during the testing period, but it may buy you some peace of mind.


Leaking basement caused by poorly graded sidewalk Along our sidewalk on the side of the house we have a 5ft section of cement that slopes directly to the house. The water pools from the steps back towards the window. About 8 inches to the right of the window is where a leak comes down the interior basement wall. I have tried caulking the crack that was along the foundation and the sidewalk. It may have slowed the leak but there still is water that comes in when it pools up there. This pools up simply because of the grade and not the gutters.

Honestly,  I am fearing a very expensive fix for someone to tear up the sidewalk and lay new cement. Are there any other options that I can try before going that route? If not, any clue how much it would cost to fix something like that in Colorado?

you should be able to get the slab mudjacked (its a process where a series of holes are drilled in the slab on the low side, concrete is injected in under the slab and the hydraulic pressure lifts the slab up.  when the concrete sets, the slab is permanently lifted the way you want it to be.  just do a search for mudjacking in your area.


Where is my furnace air filter? We moved in to a house a few months ago and for the life of me I cannot find the air filter for the furnace anywhere.  The furnace is a Payne brand. It's kind of old. In our hallway ceiling, we have the intake vent.  I unscrewed the vent itself and the filter is not there.  I removed the front panels of the unit and there is nothing that I can see.  I see two vents going up to the ceiling - one is the exhaust and the other, by the insulation, I'm assuming it's the hot air leaving the furnace.  Anyone know where the air filter might be?

Not to mix two questions...but what's the white powder in the second image?  We just moved in to this house so kind of nervous...Should call repair person or the DEA?

Thanks in advance fellows.

Don't snort that stuff! It's just dust from the exhaust pipe. Not fun to get in your nose. Your furnace is a downflow furnace so the filter should be on the upper section. But from the picture it looks like even if it is there, you wouldn't be able to get it out because of the exhaust pipe. Filters are always in the cold air return side. The little grill on the floor is a fresh air intake for the burner. So if you feel a cold draft coming in from it, don't cover it, it's supposed to do that. If there is no filter you should definitely add one.


What is the best way to connect a farm fence to a vinyl fence? I'm fencing our 11 acre property.  For most of the fence we will use wooden posts and woven field fence, but in the front we plan to go with vinyl split rail.

What's the best way to handle the corner where these two different types of fence will meet?  Can I attach the woven fence to a vinyl post?

The best way is to put two posts directly adjacent to each other - the vinyl one to the front and the wooden one just behind it, or just inside it depending how you want the front corner to look - the wooden one should also be braced to the next wooden one as it's an end-post for a tensioned fence. Putting the wood one inside will probably look better from the road, but mock it up and see what the arbiter of appearance in your household thinks.

Might also matter what critters you are trying to keep in, or out.


Can a 240V light fixture be used in the US with a 120V light bulb? The title is pretty much my entire question. If I order a 240V lamp from Europe that takes removable light bulbs, can I simply use a 120V light bulb? I understand that I would change the plug for a plug-in light, but this particular question is for a hard-wired lamp.

Hard to say without details. If it is an incandescent lamp with a replaceable screw-in bulb, and the socket fits a bulb made for here and 120V, then yes, it shouldn't matter.
But again, the devil is in the details. If we are discussing screw-in base bulbs, Europeans mainly use E14 and E27 bases. E14 is equivalent to what we in North America call a "medium" base, which is not very common (specialty lamps like aquarium bulbs). We use "candelabra" bases for small bulbs, which is equivalent to an E11, but that is uncommon in Europe. Larger bulbs in Europe are E27 bases. The E number has to do with the width of the base; E27 is 27mm wide. Here in NA we use what's called an "Edison base" and it is 26mm wide, what the EU would call an E26. So it's possible, because of tolerances, for an E27 bulb to screw into an Edison (E26) socket, meaning you can use an EU light bulb in NA fixtures (however the voltage is usually wrong). But going the other way; an Edison (E26) bulb screwed into an EU E27 socket, results in the bulb being loose in the threads and possibly getting jammed, then difficult to remove.
If the lamp has a CFL or LED, then it would depend on whether the "ballast" for the CFL or the "driver" for the LED is able to accept the different voltage. A whole different kettle of fish.