Does a thermostat need to be connected to the fuse box? My builder says no? I just purchased a home, and was in the process of replacing the thermostats with Nests. I flipped off all the circuits in the fuse box, and the thermostat on the first floor powered off. However, the thermostat on the second floor still had power.

After talking to the builder, the electrician is claiming because it is low voltage, it does not need to go through the fuse box.

Anyone know if that is actually the case? And if so, how should I install the nest if the wires remain live with no way of turning them off?

Thanks!

There are two very different issues here:
Power to the Thermostat

I flipped off all the circuits in the fuse box, and the thermostat on the first floor powered off. However, the thermostat on the second floor still had power.

A thermostat is typically powered primarily by a transformer. However, many thermostats include battery backup. There are a variety of reasons, among them that unless a thermostat is wired up a particular way (see all the messages about Nest and C wire), it may only have power when the furnace or air conditioner is running. That is fine for an old mercury dial, but doesn't work for modern thermostats. Therefore, batteries. However, even with battery backup, a thermostat designed to always have power from the transformer will appear "off" when power goes out, using the battery just to save settings, clock, etc. A thermostat that is not designed to always have power will continue just fine when the power goes out - and even if pulled off the wall, using the battery to power everything.
Low Voltage Wiring/Devices

the electrician is claiming because it is low voltage, it does not need to go through the fuse box.

The electrician is correct about this, in a way. The great thing about most thermostats (there are some line-powered thermostats which are exceptions) is that they use low voltage and are therefore very safe to work with. While they indirectly go through the main electrical panel (by way of the transformer) the wiring actually present at the thermostat is considered separate from the electrical wiring at the main panel (the other side of the thermostat). That means it is reasonably safe to mess around with that wiring without the same level of precautions needed for 120V or 240V AC. The same is true for telephone and network wiring.


What is the proper and accurate way to measure space for window screens? One of our metal windows is missing a screen and I'd like to replace it.  I don't have other windows of the same size so I can't easily copy the screen dimensions.  How should I measure the window opening so that the new screen will install properly?  The instructions that were included with my screen framing kit are insufficient and literally say "measure the opening".

Mr. Google suggested measuring the full length of the screen opening and subtracting 1/16".  If I do that though, I would think that the screen would be too big to fit.  Can I get some advise on where exactly I should measure?

Don't get to hung up on the exact size the piece of screen needs to be. simply measure the width and height of the frame and buy a piece of screen large enough. Normally it comes in standard widths and cut to length.  Once you lay and stretch the screen  over your frame, install the spline on one end, stretch, install sides and opposite end. An inexpensive spline roller comes in handy here. Use some sharp scissors, utility knife or shears and trim off the excess close to the spline. Done!


Material Identification: Bath tub front cover While renovating a bathroom in a quite old house in germany, we removed the cover holding the tiles on the front side of the bathtub and could not clearly identify the material. It seems to be interwoven strands of wood(?) with a dark paint covering them.

One person was afraid it might be asbestos paint - If someone here knows what it is, please help us satiate our curiosity and hopefully put that worry at rest.

Here's some pictures, tell me in the comments if I can provide anything else to help!

overview, a mat of dark strands

closer view of the edge, with some strands having partially lost their paint

It "could" be asbestos, but most likely it's Zementgebundene Holzwolle (cement-bound wood wool).  It was used as a cheap, lightweight cover material.  Heraklith was a popular brand across the German-speaking countries until well into the late 90s.


How do I effectively fill gaps with between window mesh and window frame? I'm attempting to reasonably insect-proof my house as I sleep with the windows open at night (no AC).  The windows in our house has a retractable mesh screen attached to the frame that has a slight gap at the bottom, which I'd like to fill.
I've been able to close some of the windows with a foam weatherstrip.  However, some gaps are large enough (> 1 inch) that the foam doesn't cover it fully.  Layering two foam strips on top of each other doesn't seem effective as the adhesive doesn't stick to foam properly.  My guess is that it won't stand the test of time.
My questions are two fold:

Is there foam > 1 inch thick, that'd suit my needs?  I've been unsuccessful in finding them in retail stores like HD.

Is there any other material that'd suit my needs?  Bonus if it's paint-able to match my window frame color.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so:

The foam weatherstripping you linked is 1.5 inches (38 mm) wide. Just turn it sideways and attach it to the face of the bottom of the screen instead of to the top of the sill. If you had 0.5 inches (12.5 mm) of material hanging off the bottom of the window you'd still have 1 inch (25 mm) of material stuck to the frame. I'd put some staples in it just to make sure it doesn't fall off, but you're not looking for a super tight seal here, just something to stop bugs from crawling in.
:EDIT: - Like this:


What is this large pipe coming out of my roof? I've looked at the other "What pipe is this?" questions, and none of them that I've found seem to match...

I don't know what the large metal pipe is (on the right side). Can anyone identify what it's purpose is (or was)?

It does not seem to be connected to anything; from what I can tell, it terminates right above a shower on the ground floor. There's been a fair amount of renovation done by previous owners and I suspect that this is a left-over that is no longer in use.

Most likely an abandoned fireplace chimney, if evidence supports the theory that the bathroom under that area has been added recently. Otherwise they may have re routed a bathroom exhaust fan into it. Take the cage off and look down it with a flashlight.


how easy is it to install and american light in the UK? I am looking to buy this light from the US.  Keen to understand if this is possible and what I would need to install it.  Many thanks M

Issues

Bulbs will be 120V not 240V and will die as soon as connected. In worst case may shower you with broken glass (unlikely but a remote possibility). You will have to fit UK 240V light bulbs instead - they are available with Edison Screw fitting (marked ES or E27).
Fitting won't conform to UK standards. This shouldn't be an issue, legally, as you are not reselling them.

The kit appears to contain exposed extraneous metal parts that are not earthed - this is regarded as unsafe in the UK and contravenes UK standards. I would drill and tap for screwed earth connection and check for low resistance path from tips of metal parts back to new earth connection.
Kit includes US wire nuts. Not used in UK, probably rated for 120V not 240V. Better to replace with a set of connectors rated for UK use.
Kit includes wire. Insulation may only be rated for 120V not 240V. Might be better to replace with wire rated for 240V.

Is designed to mount to US ceiling boxes - you might need to improvise.
It might be worth checking with your home insurance company whether they will cover fire or accidents related to this fitting.


Is the permeability of normal shellac (flakes dissolved in spirits) the same as Zinsser B-I-N sealer? I've made a whole batch of clear shellac for sealing ceiling and concrete floors in a heavily nicotine damaged apartment.
But I'm worried now that there may be some differences between them, such as permeability.
Can anyone ease my fears?

I'm simply too poor to pay $130 per room to paint BIN sealer (that's how much it costs here... and I'm laying it on thin).

I cannot answer this question but can tell you what we did to get the answers we needed.  We emailed (or you could call for) the specific questions we needed answered to the manufacturer of the Shellac product...Zinsser, by Rust-Oleum.  They responded in a couple of days and were very helpful.


Lifting mechanism for height adjustable sitting standing desk I have put together a sitting standing desk and all but one part works. The bit I would like some advice on is how to dynamically raise the keyboard/mouse surface to switch between ergonomic standing and sitting workstation heights.

It is very important for use that this height adjustment can be done very easily,
essentially in one move, and definitely without requiring any unscrewing and without needing any kind of tool use.
At the same time, I'm not looking for an electrically powered lift, but a mechanical manual design.
and the keyboard and mouse need to stay flat horizontal throughout the raise

A)
I have a solution in mind, but the current issue I have is I do not know how the component I am looking for is called :) So I cannot search for it or order it, which I would like to do. It is a metal component, one of which is attached to each side of the keyboard surface, but explaining it with words is not easy, so I made a video showing the component made out of Lego

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8aj37nav7umwp9t/2015-07-10%2012.57.25.mov?dl=0

Do you know what this kind of component is called? Or even better, where such components are sold?

B) Maybe there is a better dynamic mechanical solution? Maybe this component will not hold, although I'm sure I have seen it somewhere working?

P.S.
What I have is not actually a desk as such

but a shelving unit based on http://www.shelfstore.co.uk/thesystem.asp
And the keyboard surface is actually a shelf on a slide http://www.shelfstore.co.uk/component_details.asp?component_type_id=46&submit_action=component_find
And it has shelves above the keyboard surface to hold the computer displays
and can provide support from either above or on the sides if needed (unlike a desk)

P.P.S.
This question is related in general aim to this one How do I make a height adjustable desk?
but my question is a bit more specific and has design constraints in mind.

The device you're describing, sounds like a four-bar linkage.

Not sure if you'll be able to find one available that suits your needs, or if you'll have to manufacture it yourself, or if it's even the best design for what you're trying to accomplish.  But hopefully that will help you find what you're looking for.


Do clothes dryers have heat insulation that could be mistaken as lint? My friend's dryer leaves partially wet clothes. I plan to clean it and remove any lint.

My question is - Do dryers have heat insulation that looks like lint and should not be removed?

Here are few pictures:

While this dryer looks different than mine, I think what is in the doors is actually lint and not heat insulation (to reduce heat loss via doors)?

And the thing in the back probably is lint as well that should be cleaned:

Update #1 (the other side of drum that shows close up of picture #3):

No.  No such insulation that looks like lint.  Anything that looks like lint is lint and has to go.  Can use compressed air carefully to get at the hard to reach stuff.  However the more likely culprit is a blocked or kinked vent pipe.  Or a vent that does not vent clearly to the out of doors.  Check out the vent pipe first.  Make sure that it is clear all the way with no restrictions or reductions. Make sure that it is as straight and short as possible.  When you put your hand on the air flow outside at the vent cap you should feel a hard pressing column of air.  Without lots of air movement, you just can't dry clothes.


Gutter End without downspout I just built a covered porch. It extends 8+ feet from the house.  The porch roof extends the house roof and one gutter from the house now extends across the porch roof -- ending well away from the foundations. I once saw a diagram of a gutter that ended at the roof-level with no downspout.  It had some kind of end cap that broke up the water from a gushing stream that would gouge a trough in the lawn to a spray that disperses harmlessly.  Can anyone give me more information on what this kind of end cap/dispersal system is called and where I can find them?

Way back they used to use gargoyles for this. I am looking for a less "decorative," more functional version.

Be careful “using water” in a creative way. When water is exposed and distributed around your yard, it can erode, flood, create algae, etc. It becomes high maintenance. I especially dislike large chains as downspouts.

Remember the Princess Diana memorial in London. They had to permanent close a portion of it, because they couldn’t control the algae.


Can 22 AWG Solid Copper carry 24 VAC? I have this irrigation caddy unit, and it requires 24VAC.

There's a location outside my house with one ethernet cable and another brown cable with four solid copper wires (black, red, yellow, green).  Both of these cables go back to the wiring panel in the closet.

I want to connect the brown cable to the power input on the device and connect the other end to the power supply/brick.

Would there be trouble powering the device?

Wire carries current, insulation prevents leakage of voltage.

Any wire can carry any voltage up to the working voltage of the insulation. Category 5 phone cable is rated for 125wV and commonly carries 12-57VDC for Power Over Ethernet, 48VDC for phone and 90VAC for phone ringer operation.

Wire size determines the ampacity (amount of current) the wire can carry. As long as your device pulls 600mA or less, 22 gauge wire should be sufficient. If it needs current in the 2 amp range, you'll need 18 gauge wire. Excessive current heats the wire and can melt the insulation.

Another thing to think about is voltage drop and that is affected by the size of the wire (resistance). You will have a 2V drop in available voltage at the end of a 100ft 22ga cable at 24V/600mA. 1V drop for 50ft at 24V/600mA.

Their specs aren't technical enough to tell you what the current draw is on the device.


Thoughts on Home Security Camera Location We are building a new home and now is the time to run CAT5/6 for IP cameras I have planned.  The system can support more than 4 cameras, but that's what I'm think of starting with for now.
I've marked the areas I'm thinking in red. The house has a courtyard where the pool is. I'd like a camera on the pool, the driveway, the back of the house, and the front east corner.  I know there are some blind spots, I'm not looking for 100% coverage. But this will get most of everything coming and going.

Since it is a new build, I would run wiring to every corner (including inside corners) and just put a cover plate on the ones you aren't using. Small cost up front, but tons of flexibility. Make sure the CAT cables are clearly labelled at the switch side of things.


Is a GFCI receptacle device a circuit breaker? I have been told that a GFCI receptacle is a "circuit breaker" in the sense that it will trip under overload. Everything I know, have been told, and have read from experts to manufacturers says this is not the case.

So the question stands: Is a GFCI receptacle device a circuit breaker?

No.
Each type of device serves a distinctly separate protective purpose.
Breaker
A circuit breaker detects overcurrent faults, it does not detect ground faults. A circuit breaker will stop your house catching fire when the wiring in the walls overheats from prolonged overcurrent, it wont stop you and your family being killed by electrocution.
A typical UK breaker protecting a 6A circuit might only trip out when the current reaches 30A. There are several ratings in the UK:

Type B trips between 3 and 5 time full load current;
Type C trips between 5 and 10 times full load current; and
Type D trips between 10 and 20 times full load current.

The reason for this is that some appliances have a high inrush current and you don't want lots of nuisance trips.
It is probably worth noting that breakers don't trip at a specific current, it depends on how long that current is sustained. A small overcurrent will take a long tome to heat wall wiring to dangerous levels, the breakers typically take that into account.
GFCI
A GFCI detects ground faults, it does not detect overcurrent faults. This is mostly designed to prevent electrocution. It won't stop your house catching fire.
The assumption here is if the current supplied on hot is more than is returning through neutral, the difference might be flowing to earth through someone's body.
A class-A GFCI may trip out for a very low imbalance in current between hot and neutral, perhaps only 5 mA (i.e. five thousandths of an amp).
The UK equivalent, an RCD, might trip at 30 mA - there are many types designed for various purposes - which is why it is sometimes best to employ a professional electrician to select and install these.
AFCI
An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) is designed to detect arcing. This is where a poor connection, for example in a plug or outlet, causes sparking as the electric current crosses a small air gap. These are the types of faults that can cause fires even though the current being drawn may be well below what will trip the breaker.
Combination devices
UK
In the UK you can use an RCBO that combines RCD (GFCI) and MCB (circuit breaker) functions in a single device in the "consumer unit" (main distribution panel).
A typical UK installation would have two RCDs in the main distribution panel. You can buy plug-in RCD devices. You can buy sockets with built in RCD protection - mainly for outdoor use where an electric mower might cut it's own lead.
US
The US have similar combination devices. They can combine breaker and GFCI or all three functions.
From what I've read, historically, there seems to have been a practice in the US of putting breakers in the panel and GFCI in the outlets. One GFCI in a circuit can be used to protect ordinary outlets downstream of it. Nowadays people tend to use GFCI, AFCI and combination protective devices more.
Regulations
Nowadays you generally need all types of protection.
Usually, existing installations don't need to be brought up to date unless you are making significant changes like adding new circuits.
Obviously, regulations vary from place to place. You need to check what applies in your location.


Required protection for copper gas line passing through metal opening in fireplace casing (Alberta, Canada) Background context:  As executor, I'm in the process of selling my late father's house.  I have an offer pending; following the home inspection, the prospective buyers have submitted a list of concerns they would like to see addressed, along with corresponding sums of money they'd like to have knocked off the agreed-upon purchase price.  Some of their cost estimates / requests are not altogether unreasonable, some ... not so much.

There is one item on the list I'm having trouble evaluating.  The inspector noted that the copper gas line feeding a gas fireplace was not protected as it passed through the metal casing of the fireplace. See photo below from the inspector's report.

So, I agree that this is an issue, and I'm willing to address it.  But how "easy" a fix is this?

Can I just wrap some kind of approved protective sleeve around the copper pipe over a short length spanning the opening?  Would wrapping it with ROXUL or some similar fire-rated insulation work?  Does the protection have to be on the copper pipe, or could I, for example, put some kind of plastic/foam protection around the sharp edges of the metal casing for the fireplace?

Or is this something that will require a more involved/less DIY-friendly fix? (E.g., the gas line has to be disconnected, a metal sheath added, and the gas line reconnected.)

I guess my question is ultimately -- is this a DIY type fix requiring $25 in materials and a healthy dose of profanity, or is this something requiring a professional at a cost on the order of a couple hundred dollars (figuring "dispatch fees" and all the other usual overhead)?

House is located in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

Any and all comments or suggestions welcome.

For me, there is nothing wrong with the copper tubing used as long as it is not touching the sharp metal of the hole. For someone that is looking for anything to complain about, well it is time to correct the problem. You can "GOOGLE" CPVC bulkhead fittings or go to the web site  (PVC pipe supplies .com ) and click on the picture with the same heading for a possible solution. The fittings or similar item can be purchased at electrical stores or most home improvement stores that sell electrical conduit. A second fix may be to use a snap-in insulating bushing which you should be able to find at the same previously mentioned sources. A third fix would be to replace some of the copper with schedule 40 black iron pipe (standard piping ). You will of course have to disconnect the copper tubing to install the bushings.  Hope this helps.


storm inlet drain blocked Residential storm inlet overflowing and blocked in the car park.
Removed water but was unsure what to do next or how the mechanics of the inlet work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I assume that is a pic taken standing over the storm drain looking down into it.  How interesting that someone put a sewer cleanout in there.  Don't mess with that cleanout unless you want the problem to get worse real quick, I am sure it has nothing to do with handling rainwater.
Do you know where this is supposed to exit?  Is it running underground to an outlet downhill somewhere?  If you don't know where it goes to you probably shouldn't mess with this one.
If you know where the outlet is you MIGHT be able to put a pump in there and run a garden hose with a pressure nozzle on it down into there with the water on full and the pump keeping the drain empty and if there's no sharp bends you might be able to clear the blockage out if it's just mud.  I would start with the exit end, though.  If you cannot find it that doesn't mean it's not there, more likely it's a victim of years of neglect and is buried.
Sometimes these things ended up running into a sewer line or sometimes into an underground "french drain"  To do this job right if you can't find the outflow you need a sewer endoscope and a sewer line locator the tooling alone is a couple grand.


Is my Kenmore HE4T Washer repairable for a reasonable price? Kenmore HE4T Washer

Is this repairable?
Here are a couple of videos I took of it happening...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfog6-36fdg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuTZ3z-Lp34&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The technician said I'd be better off buying a brand new washer, but I just can't believe that. I choose to believe the bearing is replaceable.

From what I'm reading, my bearing should be covered under warranty.

Everything is repairable, even a car that has been under water for years.  It's just a matter of if it's financially feasible to do so taking into account the cost of parts and labor.

My advice would be to get an opinion and quote from a few different service technicians.  If they all say that it would be cheaper to just replace the unit, then you can make your own decision as to whether you want to just replace or it attempt to fix it.

If you think it should be covered under warranty then you first need to have someone determine what is actually broken (there might be a cost to you for this which would probably be refunded if it was a warranty issue), then based on the warranty, figure out if it is covered or not.

I had a crappy washing machine in my old condo (cheap unit that the builder installed). It was going to cost $600 to fix and the same unit new was only a couple hundred dollars more.  I just bought a new (different) unit instead of trying to fix it.


How to remove light fixture I'm having trouble getting this light fixture off the wall (I need to look in there to see if I can spot any loose wiring, the light turns on and off when we wiggle the fixture!).
Unfortunately, I can't figure out how to get it apart, mainly because it's so tight to the ceiling.
Does anyone know how it's done?

One of the three clips will be spring loaded.
Pull straight out on it, while supporting the glass, and then the glass will be able to swing down and out of the other two.
Once the glass is removed you can access the fasteners, two screws or nuts, that are holding the fixture to the box in the ceiling.
Turn the breaker off that is supplying power to the light before you do anything with the wiring.


Drill getting stuck about two inches into stud I'm trying to mount my flat screen.  I found a stud using a stud finder and can definitely feel that I'm drilling into the stud but about 1.5-2 inches in, the bit gets stuck.  I proceeded with drilling in the screw but it gets stuck at the same spot.  I can get the screw in a little further with a wrench but still not far enough to hold the mount flush with the wall.  The screws are very long.  Any idea what might be happening?  There are three different spots on the stud where I have to drill these screws in (vertically) and it's happening with every one of them.

Thanks!

Hope you haven't done any significant damage to whatever you are hitting, and choose a different stud  - or else open up the wall and look. At "1.5 to 2 inches" there's no requirement to put protective steel plates over things in the wall like wires and plumbing, so you have probably found something like that with your drill bit and very long screws.


Should I fill nail holes in a roof deck before installing underlayment? I'm getting ready to install roofing shingles on an outdoor shed/office. The roof has a small/moderate incline.  At the moment, the roof just has bare plywood on it.  In several spots, I needed to remove/relocate nails so there are some old holes in the roof deck.  Should I fill these in with something? If so, what compound should I use to fill in the holes?

Or is that not necessary considering that I'm going to place underlayment felt over everything and shingles over that?

Correct; no need to waste time filling them in. The underlayment and roofing materials themselves act as the waterproofing. The nails for the shingles are going to penetrate the roof deck anyway.


Am I likely to be able to run a circuit from this panel for an EV charger? I live in a shared condo where two units share an electrical panel in an electrical closet behind the garage. I'm thinking of buying (well, leasing) an electric car and in order to charge it, would like to install a 30A 240VAC Level 2 charger (which requires a 40A breaker).

Before I pay an electrician to come out to do a site survey, I wanted to see if what I had in mind is even possible given the panel that I have now.

It's a shared panel with 2 meters, each unit has a 100A main breaker (under the plastic cover below the meters), but there are no other breakers or slots in the panel that I'm aware of. The meters and disconnect breaker for each unit on on the right-hand side of the panel, the cover on the left side of the panel is sealed with a tamper-proof seal with a tag from my local electrical inspector so I don't know what's inside.

My dwelling's electrical service runs about 40 feet underground to the kitchen in the middle of my unit, so I don't think that adding a circuit on my main panel and pulling it out to the garage is feasible. It's a straight shot about 20 feet from the electrical wiring closet to the garage wall where I'd want the charger so it'd be a pretty easy cabling run.

Since there don't seem to be any open breaker slots, it doesn't look like I can just pop in a 40A breaker in that main panel and run a circuit to the garage. But I was thinking that I may be able to:

Put a subpanel with a 40A breaker next to the main panel and somehow tap into the feed coming off the 100A breaker inside the main panel to feed that subpanel, then run suitable wiring from the subpanel to the charger. However, the subpanel may have clearance issues, it looks like there's room in the closet to mount it to the left of the main panel, but it wouldn't be in front of the door and would only have around 18" of clearance in front of it so that may not be sufficient.
If a subpanel in the closet won't work, then I was thinking that maybe I could tap into the 100A circuit and run 100A wiring to a subpanel in the garage with a 40A breaker for the charger.

(and when I say "I", I mean a licensed electrician, since this is not something I'd do myself, and it will have to be done under permit with approval by my HOA).

Does this sound at all feasible? I guess my biggest question is whether or not it's possible to tap into the feed coming off of my 100A breaker -- I'm guessing that there's no convenient bus bar to screw new wires into so I'm envisioning some sort of big pigtail with split-bolt connectors?

Is there anything else I need to consider? The 1000 sq ft house has gas heat and appliances and no air conditioning, so I don't think a 30A charger will push me over the safe loading for my 100A service.

Also as a part of this work, I'd like to run a 20A 120VAC utility outlet so I can plug in a vacuum cleaner or something, but I'm assuming that will be a relatively easy piece of this project.

Here's a picture of the panel:

And a closeup of the label on the left-side panel:

To answer your biggest question: I'm pretty sure it's not code-legal to tap into the feed from your meter panel with split-bolt connections. It's possible that your breaker panel has some lugs near the bottom of the load side bus bars to connect a feed to a subpanel, but most don't.

So a possible solution is what Doxy suggests: a new 100A panel that feeds your existing panel as a sub-panel. Before you consider that, I'd check to see if your panel type admits half-size tandem breakers. These are breakers that fit two half-size breakers into the space for one normal breaker, and this would free enough space for a 40A breaker to your EV charging circuit in the garage.

Another possible difficulty, though, is that your 100A service is awfully marginal for the addition for a 40A EV charging circuit. Although you didn't give all the relevant details, I assume your 1000 sq ft house (does this include the basement, if there is one?) has an electric dryer. In my jurisdiction, a load calculation shows you would require a 107A service. You may be able to get away with a 100A service, but it will depend on your inspector/permitting authority.


Why does recommended door rough opening height add 2-1/2" to door height? I am skeptical about the recommended 2-1/2" addition to the door height for an interior door rough opening (assuming only subfloor). Consider the following estimated (meaning I am unsure if they are right) measurement stack:

1/2" flooring cover thickness
1/2" clearance b/ween flooring and door roughly
1/8" clearance between door and jamb header
3/8" jamb header thickness
TOTAL 1-1/2"

That provides for a whole inch of slack (2-1/2" recommended rough opening height minus 1-1/2" estimated allocation above).  Isn't a whole inch a bit too much of a slack provision?  I understand you can shim but it seems to me that a half inch to and inch would be too much of a gap for shims (OK, can use 1x lumber but still I think it is too much).

An alternative measurement stack, especially correction with my clearance provisions would be appreciated to dispel this phenomenon to me.

I might quibble about floor thickness (3/4 for wood strip flooring), jamb thickness (closer to 5/8) and you're missing a gap between jamb and header (1/2 to 3/4), so I would add 1/4 +1/4 +1/2 to 3/4 for a 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 RO


Okay to remove light switch and cap wires? I have a dimmer switch that’s currently controlling a set of ceiling lights. I’d like to install smart bulbs in those light fixtures, which don’t play well with the dimmer.

Since I want power to the bulbs always on (and will be controlled with an independent smart switch/remote), can I remove the dimmer, and join and cap the two wires currently going into the dimmer switch?

Is there anything unsafe about that?

There is nothing unsafe but may be a local fire code issue. I recently checked on my areas local code as I was asked to remove 4 bedroom switches and a living room area, similar to what you want.

The person I talked to said if the remote is not over the switch they can toggle the switch for a couple seconds and the lights respond. Although it is not a law yet the person I talked to said they are trying to get the required switch mandated to be hardwired and the “legal issue” will be based on the date the house was built.
Low voltage remote switches will be allowed as long as hardwired.

There justification is the person in need of care had the remote and first responders could not activate the lights. She said responders getting injured on several occasions and the possibility that some patients have died because of delays due to darkness and tripping in the dark while responding.

She said today a switch is not fully defined for safety reasons and they are working on making hardwired a law. But at this time they recommend the type that located the new remote over the switch in the on position that if the remote is out the switch handle can be toggled.

After talking to the owner they decided to not remove the switches, however today it would not be in violation of former or electrical code.


cover cut edge of kitchen worktop Just fitted a kitchen from ikea... all but the worktops.

Our kitchen is a corner kitchen.

The worktops we have been provided are a stock length and need to be cut down in length to fit.

After I have cut the worktop, at the section where one work top meets the other, what am i meant to use to cover the cut edge and seal from water ingress? Wonderfully Ikea don't supply anything for this.

Formica is the material that is usually glued to the countertop.
Normally you clean the top with acetone and put  a “Seamfil” compound with a putty knife.
They have different brands other than Seamfil but pick the brand that most closely matches your color.
There will be a stripe as it never matches exactly but it will seal and keep the material from “puckering” or filling up with Gunk.


Best style of window for above grade basement windows? My basement windows are roughly 2'x3' (h x w) and the exterior sill is 6 inches above grade, and 5 feet above the basement floor.  I am not particularly concerned with security beyond frustrating the casual housebreaker.

The three styles of windows that look good in a horizontal alignment are: Awning, Single Tilt Slider and Double tilt slider.  Does any one have any particular advantages in the above circumstances?  Or do I just let my wife pick the pretty ones?

Honestly, letting your wife pick what looks best is the answer.  The double tilt sliders are nice if you want to pop them out and clean them I guess. I like the awning ones because you have a bigger window area without sashes in the way.  If you do get the awning style, make sure the crank mechanisms are replaceable.  I have one in my bathroom that basically isn't repairable without taking the whole thing out. Whether you will actually be opening and closing them and how much airflow you want to have is another consideration. You may not want to have to crank it in an out or remove the screen to unlock it.


Replacing switched two prong outlet to a no switched gfci Please help. I'm trying to replace an outlet. The one I'm talking off is a two prong outlet and the bottom is switched. There is no ground, there is a white, a black, and a red. I think I'm right that it's a line outlet, right? I'm trying to put in a GFCI and I don't know where to put the red. I hope that's clear enough. Thanks in advance!

The red is probably the switched leg which went to the bottom of the old outlet.
Just cap it off safely with a wire nut and leave it.
Since you don't have a ground wire on your new GFCI, you should label it "No Equipment Ground" (and your new GFCI probably came with some pre-printed labels for that).


What does it mean when my fridge sounds like a machine gun? I have a fridge that I believe to be 20 to 25 years old.  (It came with the house.)  Not always, but sometimes when it finishes its cooling cycle, it makes a loud rattle-like sound, almost like three or four shots of a machine gun.  It's quite loud when it does it, especially when I'm trying to sleep.

The fridge itself is cool inside.  I've checked it for level, and it's perfect side to side, a hair low in the front.  There is no ice maker.

Is there anything else that can cause a fridge to make a rattling sound?  Is it possible the fridge is on its last legs?

There may be an accumulation of dust and debris behind the unit and near the compressor. Also the bolts or fasteners that hold it all together there may need a little tightening- give it a good cleaning and look for accumulated dust on the fan and fan blades.


Flooring durable for German shepherd I have a  particle board subfloor with a crawlspace underneath, I need suggestions for any kind of flooring (except carpet) that will be durable for a 83 pound German shepherd.

Ceramic or porcelain tile is just about dog-proof.


Painting new cedar shingles I am in the process of shingling my house with cedar shingles, how long should I wait before priming and painting

Cedar shingles do not need paint. Without paint, they last a very long time with almost no maintenance.

As soon as you paint them, you are climbing on a maintenance treadmill of having to scrape and repaint them that you'd avoid by letting them attain a natural brown where dry, gray where wet appearance as they weather.

If you have issues with the natural color, dye or stain is a better approach than paint to changing it. The best approach is to let it be. The best way to stain or dye is to dip the shingle and let dry before putting it on the house.


Leaking kitchen faucet My kitchen faucet has a slow leak coming from the faucet.

I removed the hot side knob (while forgetting to turn off the shutoff valve first) and some parts went airborne while I rushed to turn off the water.

Which part or parts do I need to replace?

I think the spring and the rubber object next to it go in the hole in the well.

What order do they go in if I am right?

The spring goes into the bottom of the cartridge followed by the rubber bushing/washer. The leak is probably coming from some of the other "o" rings or seals in the cartridge. You might want to consider just buying a new cartridge.


Remove black residue/mold on bathroom caulking I have black residue developing along the seams in my bathroom (standing shower). The residue seems to be growing on the white caulking done along the seams. I tried to remove it using the "Scrubbing Bubbles Bathroom Cleaner" but it did not work.

Is there another way to remove it without damaging the caulking?

I do have similar black spots appearing near my kitchen sink and bathroom sinks, but not as big as in the shower area.

I am afraid there is no simple solution for this.

One of the issues you might have is that these locations are damp by nature ; and they might be poorly lit. Damp/Dark = Mold growth.

Now in the modern world of LED lighting people will say it is not poorly lit so it is not dark.
 Point well taken EXCEPT that LED light lacks the UV rays needed to inhibit and kill mold growth. This is why I have Halogen Lights above my shower and not LED lights. So now instead of having a terrible mold growth and cleaning problem every day, I have an easy to keep clean area with no visible mold growth anywhere.


Light with 2 4-way switches and 1 3-way switch I'm a home DIYer and have some familiarity with electrical work. I recently bought a home and am replacing the switches. In the upstairs hallway, there are 3 switches that control one light. After researching online, I learned that this should be handled with two 3-way switches and one 4-way switch. However, it looks like my setup has one 3-way switch and two 4-way switches (see pictures). The house was built in 1985 and am fairly confident there is not a fourth switch. Can anyone explain why this was setup this way or what I have wrong?

A 4 way can be used as a 3 way, you just have to connect travelers to common colored screws, and attach the common wire (the hot or switch leg) to one of the other screws leaving its matching screw empty.
But seeing all terminals have wires this does seem unlikely. It would mean a fourth wire is uselessly connected to the switch and goes to the light unused or that it was routed to another junction box where another switch was intended but not installed.
You could test by removing one wire at a time from 4 ways looking for the wire that has no effect. Permanently insulate that wire and connect the wire it travels with to the common on the new 3-way. (If you do later find a mystery hidden three way it will act like a kill switch, only allowing the other switches to function when it is in the closed position.)


Do I need common trip breakers for a house wired with shared neutrals? My home inspector stated that my home is wired with shared neutrals for most circuits. I guess this makes sense, as long as the safety ground is present. He also said that most of the circuits with shared neutral do not have common trip breakers. He said I should replace them with common trip breakers.

For some reason the installer stripped the insulation on the romex back so far you can't identify what wires are part of what circuit. This complicates things quite a bit.

What type of breakers do I need to buy for my breaker box? What breakers in my box need to be replaced?

The National Electrical Code requires simultaneous disconnection of multiwire branch circuit ungrounded conductors.
It does NOT require common trip breakers.
Here are the pertinent articles:

210.4(B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates.
Informational Note: See 240.15(B) for information on the use of single-pole circuit breakers as the disconnecting means.
240.15(B) Circuit Breaker as Overcurrent Device. Circuit breakers shall open all ungrounded conductors of the circuit both manually and automatically unless otherwise permitted in 240.15(B)(1), (B)(2), (B)(3), and (B)(4).
(1) Multiwire Branch Circuit. Individual single-pole circuit breakers, with identified handle ties, shall be permitted as the protection for each ungrounded conductor of multi-wire branch circuits that serve only single-phase line-to-neutral loads.

Notice the last Article 240.15(B)(1) allows you to use identified handle ties on single pole breakers for multiwire branch circuits.
Besides that, any house built under an older Code (like 1983) is normally grandfathered until you make major changes, like replacing the panel, and have to then upgrade to the new code requirements.
As far as determining which circuits are multiwire. You can start with the white and black on the 50 amp breakers those should be paired. Then any red wire would normally be in a multiwire cable with a black. Determining which red goes with which black will be your project.
Good luck and stay safe!


Pipe inside pipe to reduce condensation Cold well water and high humidity cause serious moisture problems on wall pipes in this area of the country.  Would like to develop pipe-in-pipe system to carry cold water in the core pipe and hot in the jacket pipe.  Yes, there would be heat equalization, but not a problem. Where can I find such a product -- or is there a reader with experience in making such a device?

You should wrap the pipes with lengths of foam pipe insulation. Both the hot and cold sides.


How should I handle bare wooden posts in a wet area? In a post-and-beam house (built from Douglas Fir), I will have a bathtub right next to a couple of the posts.

Should I be worried about the effect of water on the longevity of the wood?

The other posts in the house are bare (unfinished). Is it necessary to put a protective finish on these wet-area posts?

I think you should seal the wood for two main reasons:

the posts are in a bathroom, where they'll be subject to high humidity (possibly condensation) and temperature changes. That's a recipe for warping and splitting in any wood. Even with the thick posts used in a post-and-beam house, you'll still see some ill effects eventually.
Doug fir is rot-resistant, but not rot-proof. If you do get condensation in that bathroom, you'll shorten the life of those beams if you don't protect them.

A third (cosmetic) reason is that untreated wood is going to lose color over time, becoming gray.  I would recommend you think about treating all the exposed posts and beams, not just in that bathroom.


Is krypton gas more energy-efficient that low-e argon? This company I am about to buy windows from is giving me triple-pane windows with krypton gas for the same price as double-pane with low-e argon.  The salesperson brought some window samples to my house last week to show how krypton gas stops the heat from a heat lamp from passing through.  He held the heat lamp to the regular sample and I felt the heat instantly when I put my hand under the sample.  He switched to the krypton sample and I felt absolutely no heat at all.

I want to go for the triple-pane, but the president of my condo's association is pushing Pella windows really hard.  He argues that krypton gas might have kept me from feeling the heat from the lamp for a few minutes, but, eventually, the heat would have gotten through just the same.

His argument boils down to krypton not being all that it's sold to be, that's it's just a gimmick.  I'd like to hear other people's answers on this.

As someone who bought new windows a couple years ago and researched it to death, almost anything a window salesmen tells you will be a marketing gimmick.

The fact of the matter is that when it comes to heat transfer resistance with windows, you reach the point of diminishing returns rather quickly.

Triple pane windows will give you a slight advantage in energy efficiency however they tend to be heavier and far more expensive.  The extra weight can often cause them to wear out the casing or unseat over time however.  Now consider comparing these to dual pane windows with a low E coating and you will only see a slight drop in resistance from the window itself.

Both Krypton and Argon are noble gases and both achieve the same effect, they insulate between 2 or more panes of glass by slowing down the transfer of heat.  Krypton is typically used in triple pane where Argon is typically used in double pane and this has to do with the maximum heat transfer resistance for each gas at different widths between panes of glass.

Krypton does in fact do slightly better but usually at an enormous upfront cost that in my opinion would be hard to get ROI on over the years as compared to dual pane low E Argon windows.  Over time with the expansion and contraction of the casing and general exposure to the elements, microscopic stress fractures will start forming around the case slowly allowing all that expensive Krypton or Argon gas to escape, essentially making the windows lose heat transfer resistance over time.  Investing in a window with a better quality case design will do more to improve the overall energy efficiency of your windows than any investing in triple pane Krypton.

A good quality case design that is well insulated and uses high quality weather resistant vinyl will do more to increase the lifespan of the windows and maintain the energy efficiency of the windows by being more resistant to leaks and fractures that will result in the slow seepage of the noble gases.

It can be hard to seperate the gimmicks from the truth when it comes to window shopping, so thoroughly understanding the difference is important.  Figure out what your monthly heating bill is and use that as a basis for making a good decision.  If you are living in the Yukon and you have long frigid winters then perhaps spending the extra money for the triple pane krypton windows is worth it.


Tips and tricks to installing cabinet doors and mounting hinges What are some tips to installing cabinet doors and hinges so that they are positioned correctly and look good? I've been to some showrooms (IKEA) where the doors look slightly crooked or they don't look perfectly symmetrical or the gap between left/right cabinet doors amongst the cabinets in the kitchen are not the same.

Euro style hinges adjust in all 3 directions that you'd want: up/down, in/out (relative to the cabinet wall), and front/back.

If you start with a cabinet carcase that's square or nearly square, it's usually a matter of tweaking some of those 3 adjustments on the hinges. (If the cabinet is desperately racked, you might exceed the adjustment range of the hinges. In this case, you need to correct the cabinet, then fiddle with the hinges.)

Note that the screws on those hinges are often pozidrive, so if you're doing a lot of this, you'd do well to get the right screwdriver. (Failing that, use philips, but be careful about stripping the screw heads.)


What is a "Y" shaped bolt called? I am trying to recreate a folding artist's stool shown on the Mr. Rogers show. It requires a Y shaped bolt, which I can't find anywhere. I have been searching for "Y bolt" with no luck. Does it have a different name?

Try searching for "tri bolt".  These are somewhat standard hardware although I've never seen one at a big-box store.


Can I remove this post on the lower floor of a two-storey home? In the living area of my house is this decorative rail and post.

I want to remove them. While I suspect such a narrow, solitary post would not be made to bear a load, I am not a builder so I still feel I should verify my suspicion before removing it.
If the answer is just "ask a local professional", yes, I will do that too, however I'm still always interested to see what the internet has to say about stuff. If I'm lucky, some builders will respond, and that may leave me better informed for when I do go looking to pay a local professional for advice.
Some details of the home:

professional build
built in 1994
two storey
rail and post is on the lower storey
typical (for Australia) timber and brick veneer construction on concrete slab
no crawl space or basement below (just concrete slab on earth)
second floor above
the post appears to be turned from 4x4 lumber and is 60mm at its narrowest point.

I have contacted the firm that designed (but did not build) the home, and they were unable to answer my question as they claim to no longer have engineering drawings for this model of home.
I however do have some plans, and here you can see the rail and post in question.

That's not a structural component, at least not under normal building standards.  But just to be sure, check underneath in the basement or crawlspace.  Is there a support below it?  If so, then it's carrying some load.  If not, you're good to remove it.
Check in the attic above it.  Is there anything being supported?  Chance are good that the answer is no.


Where to put a cable tie on an electrical cord? When it comes to adding an attached cable wrap to a electrical power cord, is there a proper end to place a cable tie?

Female end? Male end?

I know I can add a wrap to an electrical cord on either end or even place a tie in the center. I am wondering if there is a proper end people prefer. I can't seem to find an answer and I'm about to wrap lots of electrical cords.

How do you unfurl electrical cables?

Unwinding a lot of extension cords; I usually start at the socket, plug in the "plug end" of the cable, and unfurl from there.   Otherwise I have no idea where to start.

Generally unfurling a cable flows best when you do it in reverse: start unfurling from the end you finished furling.   Otherwise it tends to tangle.

So that says start furling at the socket end, and that's where the cable wrap should go.  Also if you don't need the full length, you can use the wrap to re-bind the part of the cable you haven't unfurled.


What is the Philips screw naming convention (Mn)? What is 2 in M2? I want to order screws like the one I have. The diameter of the threaded portion is 2mm. The length of the threaded portion is 8mm.

The screws are listed as Mn (where n is 1.6,2,2.5...) on various sites. The length parameter is also specified.

I have a feeling that the n represent the diameter of the threaded portion
however even after having searched a lot I found no document that explicitly states this.
Some documents state diameter=M2. So M2 relates to the diameter. But 2 could be in mm, 1/10 of an inch or it could be like shoe size where the number is not a dimension in itself but simply represents one of the many standard sizes.

Side note: I wonder why something as basic as this is not documented clearly. Specs generally go into excruciating detail which includes the naming convention. Where should I have looked for the meaning of this convention? I have gone through ISO-7045 but even it does not state what the n in Mn means.

"M" screws are all metric, by standard. The number following the M is the outer diameter of the screw threads, in millimeters, so an M4 screw's threads have an outer diameter of 4mm.

See Wikipedia for more information.


How to fix loose post I set an 9"x 8' creosote post in a 2' deep hole that is about 30" wide. I know the hole should be deeper but too much rock below that depth. I dumped 80 lb of Quick Crete in and added 2 gallons of water. It was still soft after 4 hours. I removed one of the three braces to see if it was tight. Big mistake. I wobbled the post when removing the brace and the pressure loosened the post slightly.

8 hrs later the cement has finally hardened but the post still wobbles slightly--about 1/2 inch at the top. How can I make it solid? I still have about a foot of hole left so should I just add another bag of QuickCrete? I could easily drive some three or four 8" nails in the crack between post and hole to firm it up before adding the QuickCrete. I may hang a gate on it so it needs to be solid. Any ideas?

"How can I make it solid?"

Something isn't right in your post. An 80lb sack mixes up 2/3 cubic foot.

Spec sheet: https://www.quikrete.com/PDFs/DATA_SHEET-Fast%20Setting%20Concrete%20Mix%201004-50.pdf

The volume of your 2' deep, 30" dia hole, minus the 9" post volume, is 9 cubic feet.

Here is the volume calculation

Short answer is at 2' deep it'll never be a solid 6' tall gate post on it's own. Sp personally, I'd pull it all out, dig the post hole deeper and pack it with 1/4-minus.

Dig four 2' long trenches 15" deep, extending from the 9" post at right angles to each other.  One pair parallel to your gate, the other pair perpendicular.  Sandwich the 9" post with a pair of 5' long PT 2x6's laid in the trenches that are parallel to the gate. Bolt together. Do the same with another pair of 5' 2x6's in the perpendicular trench. Fill with concrete. Per Isherwood, add some rebar.


Are These Pliers Bad? Does anyone have a Southwire lineman's 9 inch side cutting plier? Is it supposed to have that much of a gap or do I have a bad set of pliers?
This is how big the gap is when it is closed completely.

These are actually called side cutting pliers. The gap at the top is supposed to be there to allow the cutting edges to do their job. I have a pair of Kleins with the exact same gap.... except for a 5/32" hole in the cutters from cutting a live wire.... in my younger years.


Gas Combustion Air Duct Re-Route Considerations What are the safety/legal considerations for safely re-routing gas combustion ducts?
I have a two-story house with two gas combustion air ducts. The left duct serves a fireplace that is not in use and will be removed. The right duct serves both the water heater and furnace. I would like to remove the highlighted yellow sections and re-route the water heater + furnace exhaust duct to the left duct, and cap/kill the fireplace. The right duct is in the middle of a room on the second floor; the main intent is to remove the right duct that was in a removed wall to be completely removed. There is currently 24" between the 6" round ducts.
Section 304.11 of the 2015 Washington State Fuel Gas Code doesn't specify the required slope for horizontal runs, only:

Horizontal upper combustion air ducts shall not slope downward toward the source of combustion air.

Make/Model info

Furnace: Carrier 58STX070
Water Heater: Bradford White Hydro Jet 50 Gallon MI5036FBN 40000 BTU/hr

Consulting with an HVAC technician advised:

disconnect the left duct from the fireplace just below the first floor subfloor
disconnect the right duct just above the wye on the first floor
route the furnace + water heater duct to the left duct using 6" round B-Vent. The technician pointed out that it's key to match the existing brand (I have Ameri-Vent) so that the turn-and-click attachments are the same.
remove the right duct and fireplace, capping each with a sheet metal & silicone end cap.


Unfamiliar wiring on what looks like a single pole switch Apologies if the question title is inaccurate, my knowledge of household electrical systems is rudimentary.

I was attempting to install a new motion activated light switch in a room in my house but when I opened the case the existing wiring was like nothing I had seen before and so I was unsure how to proceed.

I have attached some images of the switch but, in words, what I see is two wires connected to the top screw and one wire each into both the top and bottom backstabs. No grounding wire is present. This is the only switch in the room, though it does turn on multiple lights.

Any help identifying what Im dealing with here would be very much appreciated.

I believe they were using the switch to pigtail together the two looped wires and the top back-stabbed wire. The top screw and top backstab are the same terminal of the switch (the other screw and backstab are the other switch terminal). This is probably the hot coming from the source (breaker panel) and being distributed to two other switches.

You can proceed as follows:

Disconnect the looped wire and the top backstabed wire.
Cut the loop to produce two separate wires.
Connect together these three wires, together with either the line wire to the new switch or a short piece of wire (pigtail) to go to the new switch. Be sure to use a proper sized wirenut.
Connect the bottom back stabbed wire to the load terminal of the new switch.

One caution: between adding another wirenut (or two if the switch has its own load wire that must be wirenutted to the load wire) and the size of the new switch, you may well exceed the fill limit of the box. In this case, you'll need to actually remove the box and replace it with a deeper box (not an easy job).


How much water for mixing with concrete? I bought a bag of quikrete mason mix for creating some planters from molds. The wood panel molds look something like this, but the spacing is a bit narrower and they're smaller:

Since I'll be pouring the mixture into a mold, I would prefer the mixture to be as "liquid" as possible without it affecting the integrity of the mold.

Question: how much water should I mix the concrete with so it pours without issue? The more "watery" the mixture, the easier it would be for me.

Also, the pots are square at about 14" per side, so it's not like they need to be super strong.

Concrete is strongest when the mix is as dry as possible, and weaker when the mix is wetter. A highly liquid mix is therefore almost always a bad idea.

This is well understood/documented/tested in the industry, tends to be poorly understood by homeowners and some of the less educated pros.

Likewise, the importance of plenty of water for the curing process after the concrete has set is well understood by industry and poorly by most of the same people. Once the concrete has set, all the water you can supply is ideal, with the best option being to submerge it.

On a larger scale it's practical to use air-entraining (bubble/foam) admixtures that help the concrete flow as if it was wetter, but which do not impact the strength so much (and actually help with things like freeze/thaw cycles.)

On a small scale that's not very practical (AFAIK nobody sells a tiny packet of foam precursor) but vibration is highly applicable - shake, tap, hammer on the outside of the mold, pick it up and drop it a short distance, and rod (literally run a rod up and down inside the forms to distribute) the concrete inside it. On larger jobs a vibrating thing to insert in the concrete can be rented, but not likely to be useful here (too big.)

Note that mortar (what you show a bag of) is not concrete, precisely.

The linked wikipedia article sugges a ratio of weight of water to "cementitious material" (which is only a fraction of your bagged pre-mix, with the rest being aggregate, primarily sand in mortar mix) of 0.45 to 0.60


What equipment/material/knowledge is needed to visually fix a garage ramp On the left is the actual state of a garage ramp. I'd like to rectify it visually so that it looks as on the right. What knowledge/tools do I need to achieve such?
##Edit
Following the answer received, I believe my question may not be clear enough. The image on the left, illustrate some visual defects, where it makes it clear that the ramp was "patched" at one point in time and hence doesn't maintain the same visual consistency it had from the top (see half top is correct).
Please ignore the debris, materials, etc. I am specifically asking for the surface itself, do I need to break it and redo or is there a way I can apply cement or something on the top to rectify the surface so that it's uniform and visually correct?

I'd start by pressure washing the ramp with a light degreaser/driveway cleaner to see what defects remained. Some of the colorization seems to be surface stains. Then, you could epoxy-paint or stain it to at least get a uniform look, though that wont help if there are large cracks, voids or holes.  Problem with any coating is that you will be driving on it, so it will be hard to maintain the "clean" uniform look (tire marks) compared to the walking ramp on the right picture.


Support header sizing for a large garage workbench I'm building a workbench for my garage that folds up against the wall. The workbench will be 13 feet wide and 3 feet deep. Both ends of the workbench will be supported directly. The back of the workbench will be supported by the hinges that connect it to the wall. I plan on using a support header to bear the weight of the front across the full 13 feet. I was thinking of using a double 2x6 header for this, but I'd like some validation that this will support the weight. I don't plan on having the workbench hold anything extremely heavy but it should easily be able to hold a 12" miter saw and a full project's worth of wood simultaneously. Any thoughts on how verify that my header will support this?

Update:
Per the suggestions from @Jack, here is what I've come up with:

It has the dual 2x6 header to support the 13 foot span. It uses a cleat beneath the hinge edge so that the loaded weight is supported by the wall instead of the hinges. The hinges (shown in blue) are placed underneath the 3/4" MDF bench top. This way the top is all smooth and the MDF can be replaced without dismantling the full bench. Please let me know if you see problems with this design. I'm thinking I'll use this hinge.

As long as it is not a V8 engine block it should do fine. If you hammer anything on the surface, stay near the legs, toward the center you will feel the slight springiness. It will not let anything you are driving with the hammer, like wood chisels for example, will not perform like they should. That particular task may even be a bit unsafe over the span.

Use a cleat on the back edge at the wall so the hinges do no supporting when the top is down as a work surface

I added a sketch to help understand the cleat I wrote about.


How to determine tankless water heater requirements? I'm considering replacing my insufficient 30 gallon gas water heater with a tankless water heater equivalent to 50 gallon gas heater.

I know a 50 gallon heater would serve my needs.

Questions

How do I determine the tankless heater equivalent?
What are units of measurement for tankless heaters?

House is in USA with 2 showers, 2 bathroom sinks, and a kitchen sink.

With a tankless water heater it's all about how many degrees the heater can raise a certain quantity of water.  In your situation, you will need a heater to raise the temperature of about 5 gallons per minute (two showers running at once or one shower and another hot water tap running).  If you live in the north, and the water out of the tap is be 40 degrees in the winter, then you will need the heater to raise that 5 gallons 70+ degrees.  If you live in Florida, you may only need it to raise 5 gpm 45 degrees.  Information about a water heater you are considering purchasing will include a chart that specifies temerature gain at various flow rates.  Choose the one that best meets your demands.


Am I using packing tape wrong? Whenever I get a roll of packing tape, I hook the tape under the little teeth underneath the blade (pictured).

Yet somehow, after I rip off a couple pieces of tape, the excess escapes from the teeth and falls back onto the spool, seemingly disappearing . You know this feeling.

I then spend a few minutes hunting for the break, and then much wasted tape, pulling tiny strands into medium strands, medium strands into full-width ones, until I finally have the tape pulled back through the teeth.

This continues.

Of course, when storing my packing tape, I make sure to fold over a quarter inch or so, making it easy to restart the roll. But no such strategy is viable during usage.

What gives?

Is there some secret to packing tape I am missing? I find it hard to believe that after so many years of packing and taping, run-of-the-mill packing-tape spool manufacturers haven't made any progress in this field. Contrast with Scotch tape dispensers.

Simple, usable, frustration-free, for the most part. Sure, they're far from perfect, but you don't get tape fallback every couple of pieces.

Is there a similar invention for packing tape? Am I doing something wrong, some secret of packing tape that has escaped me all this time?

Please help. I am moving out of my apartment this weekend, and have many a box to tape.

Before cutting, you need to flip it in a way that sticks the tape to those little ears.

It also helps to use quality tape. If the tape is crumpling and tearing when you try to peel it off e roll, that is definitely garbage tape, and just as it's side-tearing, it won't hold your boxes together either.

The apocryphal source for quality tape of any kind is almost always 3M.

It also helps to use quality dispensers.  Which those free red plastic dispensers found sonic-welded around the tape roll are definitely not.


Is this iron pipe lamp grounded/insulated enough to be safe? I replicated this lamp from a Home Depot tutorial.

http://blog.homedepot.com/diy-industrial-lamp-cool-desk-lamp-made-from-pipe/

I'm worried that the lamp socket isn't isolated enough and that the frame of the lamp can become dangerously live. It is definitely not grounded.

Step 9 - 12 show how the socket is constructed.

Is it safe? If not, can you be specific on how I can make it safe? I'm no electrician

Most lamps have a two-prong plug. All the lamps in my house, even the ones with metal casings, have two-prong plugs. I don't think you have a safety problem.

However -- if I were building this lamp, I would attach a three-prong grounding plug and cord, just because the aesthetic of the lamp is so obviously 'heavy industry' and most heavy industrial equipment is fault-grounded.

In order to do this, you would need a grounding lamp kit. It's better and cheaper to purchase the whole kit, but if none is available, you can safely substitute a three-prong grounding plug and cord into the kit shown in the Home Depot tutorial.

You will also need a grounding locknut, also known as a bonding locknut. These are widely available if you know what to ask for.

I think the design calls for a hole through the pipe, but the rest of the project requires no cutting or drilling, and the hole is not strictly necessary.

Hole option: before beginning assembly, drill a 3/16" hole into the side of the 3/4"-to-1" coupling, through the 1" section. Drill about 1/4" from the end, or just clear of the reinforcing flange. Chamfer the ends of the hole because you will be feeding a wire through it later.

In step 9, you thread a 1/2" grounding locknut onto the 1/2" close nipple, or thread a 3/4" grounding locknut onto the 1/2"-to-3/4" coupling. Snug it up tight. The threaded rod from the lamp kit may have a hole for the ground wire. If so, pull the wire out through the hole now.

In step 12, if using the hole option, feed the fault-ground wire from the grounding lamp kit out through the hole. If not using the hole option, bring the wire out through the open end of the 3/4"-to-1" coupling. Strip the end of the fault-ground wire and attach it to the screw on the grounding locknut.

The pipe assembly is now safely connected to the round pin on the three-prong plug.


Maximum connection of devices to a single socket I'm from India
After searching many sites I signed up here to clarify my doubt as I don't know much about electricity...
I recently brought a fridge(250litres) (3 months ago) and it was working fine until 2-3 days back when I experienced a mild electric shock while touching the fridge. I called the service men from the company he said maybe the earthing is the problem.
It turned out earthing is all fine and when he came to the house and checked no shock was experienced (he just removed the earthing pin connected to frame and again connected back). After that 2-3 days it was fine but again I experienced major electric shock but this time much higher.
When I switched off the fridge and turned on 15 mins after there was no shock.
When I was searching about the same many things popped up on internet as possible causes but one that related was overloading for single socket.

The fridge is connected to one socket.
And from another socket, I have connected 4 devices using junction box:

Set-top box
LG smart TV(43 inch)
5.1 Home theatre
Sony PS4 slim

My question is:
Although my fridge is connected to another socket is this okay to have these 4 devices connected to one socket, is this causing the problem?

You need to assure that your refrigerator's metal chassis is firmly connected to the electrical supply's safety ground pin.
Then, you need to assure that your house's wiring is tip-top as far as the safety ground.  The receptacle's ground is connected properly to the panel's metal chassis, AND, the panel's chassis is properly connected to grounding rods, an Ufer ground cast into a concrete foundation, or a metal water main not interrupted by a plastic meter.
Further, things like gas pipes and metal water pipes interrupted by a plastic meter also need to be bonded to the abovementioned grounding rods.
Then this check needs to be done for all other electrical circuits and devices in the kitchen.  It could be that the refrigerator is grounded properly but something else you are touching is leaking current.
If that is correct and complete, it should arrest any shocks.
It may also be appropriate to think about an RCD for the house.  That is a ground fault detector, which looks at current coming in and going out, and assures they are equal.  If they are equal, all current is accounted for and it's not likely to be traveling through weird routes such as through a human.


Merge walls of different thickness on same vertical without notice Picture a plaster wall. Now imagine that a significant section has been removed of it and now needs replaced.

Ive tried to replace the plaster with 1/2 inch only to realize the wodth difference im left with is 1/4th inch.

Is it possible to merge the two width differences by sanding the thicker one down untill its a gradual, unoticable slope?

Or will i just have to use 2 3/8's together to made 3/4ths?

Thanks for your time

You could taper the sections together with joint compound (though you wouldn't sand it into shape--that would be ludicrously laborious). However, you'd probably still see the transition at the floor and ceiling.

Better, use furring strips on the new section of wall to result in a flush finished surface. 1/4" luan plywood or OSB is cheap and easy to work with, or rip your own from 2-by lumber.

On a related note, I tend to prefer 5/8" gypsum board when I'm replacing plaster. It more closely matches the rigidity and strength of the plaster, and requires less furring. In some cases, none is needed.


Is 68F too low for hot water heating thermostat? Final radiators not getting heat I have a hot water heating system. It's a single loop in a ranch home. The ground floor is about 1500 square feet. When the oil furnace turns on, the first few radiators in the loop get warm, but the ending radiators barely get any heat. My thermostat is set to 68F.

If I push the heat up to 73F, then the ending radiators will get warm. I was thinking maybe there was some air trapped in the end radiators, but when I opened their bleed valve, nothing came out, not even water. This was while the hot water was circulating in the system.

I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas as to:

Why the end radiator didn't spurt any water out when I opened the bleeder valve - could it just be jammed up, or is there not enough pressure in the system? My furnace says pressure is at 15 psi.
Is 68F simply too low a temp to expect hot water to get to the final radiator?

Thanks

Update: picture of the boiler gauge:

The pressure is too low. Normally when you bleed there should be air or water getting pushed out.

Find the intake valve and open it up a bit. Then go around and bleed the radiators and open the valve again for a bit. Repeat until all radiators spit out water when you crack open the bleed valve.

Then when the circulation pump kick in again it may push some air back into the radiator requiring another bleed. After that you should only need to bleed once a year or so.


New Drywall poorly installed I am having a basement bedroom finished for my daughter. I just found out the person installing the drywall has never done it before, and there are some obvious issues with the first few sheets he put up. I will probably have to do it myself, and I was hoping for guidance.

For one, he put the drywall tight to the floor, which is concrete. I know it needs to be off the ground 3/8 inch or so. Can the wall be trimmed in place or do I need to take it down first? He has only put 2 screws per stud and very few of them are at the floor level. (When I suggested he would need more, he said it was overkill. )

Several sheets were cut very raggedly, but all the sheets are tight together, whereas I thought there should be an 1/8 inch gap between sheets. Is there any way to fix this or should I just hang new sheets with the gap?

It looks like in some cases he put the screw too near the end of the drywall, which has caused them to be dislodged and some of the screws are sunk in quite deep, and look to have gone through the drywall. Can I add screws and cover errors with tape and mud?

Hopefully we can get you back on track

  he put the drywall flush to the floor. I know it needs to be off the ground 3/8 inch or so

I tend to hang drywall from the top down for this reason. It sounds like he might have started from the bottom up and left them sitting on the floor. You're right about needing a gap from the floor (I use a super bar myself to lift up when mounting)

  Can the wall be trimmed in place or do I need to take it down first?

You can trim it in place. I would suggest buying some chalk string and snapping a line around the room, then take a box cutter and cut along the line. You could also use a drywall saw, it's just harder to cut around the studs.

  He has only put 2 screws per stud and very few of them are at the floor level.

I assume we're talking 4' x 8' sheets. Two per stud is really slim. I would want a fastener (nail or screw) every 6 - 8". Two per stud can hold it up, but you don't want the board to move and that's not enough to keep it from doing that.

  all the sheets are flush together, whereas I thought there should be an 1/8 inch gap between sheets. Is there any way to fix this or should I just hang new sheets with the gap?

Nope. In this case your installer is right. The sheets should butt up to one another. You can leave a gap, but that's just more mud you'll need to apply.

  some of the screws are sunk in quite deep

Sounds like he's driving screws using a regular drill instead of a drywall screw gun (which is designed to sink them to the correct depth and no further). You want your screws to sink into the surface some, but just enough for you to fill the hole in later. If they've gone most of the way through the board then they're useless.

If you don't feel confident enough driving screws yourself (it's a bit of an art without screw gun) then use drywall nails instead. They're faster and cheaper. Just bash the heads in enough to make a dimple in the drywall (makes skimming over them easy).

  Can I add screws and cover errors with tape and mud?

Regardless of whatever fastener you use, you should mud all the holes. That's more or less what mud is for. Even if you make a mistake, mud covers all sins in this case.


How can I fasten baseboard over concrete? I have a concrete curb of about 6" from subfloor to the plate in the room that I plan to finish with 5/8 drywall.  I am figuring the best way to attach drywall and baseboard over it. One option would be to waterproof concrete with RedGard and then glue drywall to it and then follow with gluing baseboard.
Other approach, that I favor, is to attach 5/8 pressure treated plywood to concrete with tapcons and have 5/8 drywall above it. Then I can use 1" nails to attach baseboard to the plywood.
Will something like this work? Any other options?

Either could work.
I've also used trim-head screws in plastic plugs for base trim over concrete. That would involve pre-drilling to mark screw location, then drilling the concrete and installing the plugs, then screwing on the trim. The holes would be larger, but that's mostly a problem if you're using stained trim.
Of course you could fur out the wall to create a more standard backing situation. You'd lose 1-1/2" of room space.


Add Accessible Waterline shutoff for built-in style refrigerator I have a built in style refrigerator in my new home. There is a dedicated waterline shutoff but is located behind the refrigerator. Because this is a built in refrigerator which is non-trivial to remove from the wall, what this means in practice is that the shutoff is useless in an emergency.

Therefore, I would like to add an "accessible" shutoff valve between the built in shutoff at the wall and my refrigerator. This would allow me to shut off the water to only the fridge in an emergency.

The basement is already fully finished with drywall ceiling, not drop ceiling, so I cannot add a shut off in the basement and there is no way to get to the plumbing anywhere else in the kitchen (doesn't come from the same line as sink or anyplace else).

I was told I could add this somewhere near the bottom of the fridge, but I was thinking it should still work if I snake the extra tubing into the cabinet above the refrigerator as well.

What type of tubing, valves/shutoff, and other supplies do I need to do this properly? Any other considerations I should be aware of when putting this all together? specific parts, sizes, links appreciated.

Fridge model: 36UFDID/S

Where I want to put it:

What the connection at wall looks like:

I did a similar install and placed the shutoff in the cabinet next to the fridge. Your idea is pretty much the same, if only a little harder to access.  If there is a cabinet next to the fridge consider that.

In any case, what I used was two, 10' braided steel "ice maker lines" (1/4" compression on both ends) with an inline 1/4" ball valve between them.  A few cable clamps were used to hold the valve in place against the back of the cabinet which makes it easier to operate, but that's optional.  One of the lines needs to be long enough to pull out the fridge and the other just needs to be long enough to reach from the existing valve to the new location.  In other words, you might not need two 10 footers - choose your own sizes.

Ice Maker Line

1/4" compression valve

(Links were the first results I found with an amazon search and only show what I'm talking about.  I didn't use those items but found identical items at a local home store.)


How to prepare previously stained trim / baseboard for painting? We have a few rooms of dark stained trim, casing, and baseboards that we would like to paint white.  I am pretty sure it is oak, I have not seen it to be sure at this time.  It has already been taken off the walls so that should make it easier.  What is the best way to prepare them for painting?

Should we sand them first?  Just a light sanding or should we try to remove more of the stain? What grit would be best?  We are planning on using the finishing paint shown below, Sherwin Williams Pro Classic Acrylic Latex,

Regardless of the religious factor involved in painting hardwood trim, (lololol) if you must do it, you need to buff sand the wood, 150 or 220 is fine for this step. PRIME the trim with BINs Bullseye, pigmented shellac.  After the Bins dries, very lightly sand it again with 220-400 paper or 4/0 steel wool. It will be smooth as glass. The shellac will seal the grain and block any bleeding into your new color.  Now go ahead and paint away!


How can I determine if my HVAC system has features which are not currently wired to my thermostat? I recently upgraded to a Nest Thermostat. This new thermostat supports many more terminals and features than my previous thermostat. My old thermostat had the basic terminals; G,R,C,Y, and W.

I am wondering if my HVAC system supports additional features which simply were not used such as two-stage heating and cooling or control of the humidifier.

How can I determine what features my HVAC system supports? Are there terminals on the HVAC hardware which correspond to the terminal codes at the thermostat?

Would it be at all common or normal to not utilize some features of an HVAC system? I think that it would be rare, seems silly to invest in bells and whistles on an HVAC system then not use them for want of a relatively inexpensive thermostat.

Is this an accurate reference?

If my system supports additional features, is utilizing them as simple as running a new wire to my thermostat?

All furnace control boards will control the additional features that they come with (such as variable speed, or multi-stage heating and cooling)

The terminals on the thermostat will correspond with the furnace control board terminals. The furnace may have more connections than the thermostat, but most are not used or required.

For example with multi-staging furnaces you will normally see these terminals on the board. Most additional ones are to be used with 2 stage thermostats (such as w2 and y2). This would require having an additional 2 wires at the thermostat to have this feature. What is commonly done because in most homes they will only use a 5-wire, is that using the dip switches on the furnace control board, you can control how many minutes it will take for the unit to switch from first stage, to second stage. On top of that, you can bypass first stage to have the unit kick on second stage right away.

|W/W1|W2|R|Y/Y1|Y2|G|C|DHUM-|DHUM+|

Some boards will have DHUM terminals on the board which will control optional indoor air quality ad-ons such as a Heat Recovery Ventilator.

Most new high end furnaces will come with, or have the option to be used my a communicating thermostat thermostat that the manufacturer sells. These systems will have endless amounts of options to set up. However the nest is not a communicating thermostat thermostat so you will not be able to use these functions if you have one of these furnaces. On top of that, you are only able to use that specific furnace manufactures communicating thermostat thermostats on each furnace.

These boards will normally have these terminals:

|W/W1|W2|R|Y/Y1|Y2|G|C|A|B|C|D|DHUM-|DHUM+|

The A, B, C, and D terminals will be all that is needed to hook up to the communicating thermostat, and will give you full functionality of all the furnaces options. It is very rare to ever use all of the terminals on the control board of the furnace.


Best way to ground an Intersystem Bonding Termination (IBT)? What is the best way to ground a IBT? To the main panel ground bar? directly to the UFER grounding electrodes?  Or to install the IBT on the meter base?

D) None of the above

Most purpose-made Intersystem Bonding Termination devices are designed with a lay-in lug as part of them, designed to connect to a wire-type Grounding Electrode Conductor without disrupting the GEC, which is required by NEC 250.64(C) point 1 to be unspliced save for exothermic welds or irreversable compression splices.  As thus, I would do just that, mounting the device at a convenient point along the GEC and routing the GEC through the lay-in lug to make the connection.

If that is not an option, I would use a Burndy BDT mounted to the service equipment cabinet, with a minimum 6AWG bare copper bonding jumper inside the enclosure connecting the device to a ground bar.  This avoids having to reroute the GEC itself while still providing a convenient intersystem bonding termination point.


Moen Bathroom Faucet Handle Removal? I’m trying to change the cartridge on a Moen bathroom faucet but can’t get the handle off.  The handle base will turn counter-clockwise but reaches a certain point and stops.  You can also unscrew the part of the handle that sticks out and remove it but I don’t see a set screw to turn.  I’m the original owner but I don’t have a model number or instruction manual.

I have that exact one. Yes, there is a little screw under the cap that is on the top. You will need something with a fine edge on it to begin prying that up, I use a box knife, then once it is up a little, you can get a flat screwdriver tip under the lip and finish getting it off. Loosen that screw and the HANDLE comes off, but you still have to unscrew another nut underneath, and that needs a socket wrench. If you don't have one, plumbing stores and home centers sometimes sell inexpensive tubular steel sockets specially designed for this (they are no good for working on your car, but they are OK for these). Here is a picture of a set that covers all of the possible sizes, it sells for around $8 in most places (assuming USA). You only need one size but it's hard to know WHICH size as they are all different from one another by 1/32nd of an inch increments.

Just make sure your water is off BEFORE loosening that nut!

Once you get there, these stems are usually "washerless" in that they have a little O-ring that slides along a brass plate and over time that O-ring wears down. Sometimes all you need do is TIGHTEN that nut to squeeze that O-ring down a little harder. Try that first. If it still drips, then remove the nut and back out the stem, you will see where the O-rings sit. Get and install replacements, they sell them in kits.


Floors of Bathroom Very Creaky I recently bought a new house and one of the major concerns I have is the first floor half bath. At and round the toilet, the floor is ridiculously creaky. I'm half thinking I'm going to fall through the floor while using it.

I can't see any damage under the house, but I also don't know what I'm looking for...

It is not unusual for the floors in older homes to creak some, but what you are describing sounds like there is some damage to the structure. Since it is the worst around the toilet, I am betting that there is a leak somewhere which is slowly rotting out the floor.

If you have access to the floor from underneath, look for dark stains on the wood around the toilet stack. Try poking around with a screwdriver to see if there are any soft spots. The floor most likely will need to be repaired, before the repairs are done, you should identify where the active leaks are so you won't have this problem in the future. It is most likely leaking from somewhere around the toilet. The wax seal may have failed, or it is dripping from above and making its way onto the floor.


How can I install a motion sensor for a closet light? I am a total noob when it come to house fixing stuff.

I want to add some more lighting to my closet.
Rather than place a small light bulb with the switch on my closet,
I want the light to turn on automatically using some kind of sensor.

I know that I have to buy

a light bulb,
and a motion detector

I am not sure how to set up the sensor to trigger the lightbulb.
Can someone please give me some advice on that ?

Thanks.

You didn't say if you already had lighting in your closet or not.  If you don't, I would suggest buying a stick-up (battery-operated) LED light with a motion sensor.  (In my area, most retailers have several models like this.)

Most interior motion sensors are combined with a switch, so if you don't want a switch then you may be out of luck.


I have a forced air system in my new home. The heat and air conditioning are unbalanced. How do I fix it? I reversed damper configuration as were instructed when we bought the house now that its getting hotter out. Unfortunately the upstairs is much hotter then the downstairs. More specifically we are having a hard time keeping the nursery cool.
Is there anything that I can try that is not too invasive? Ive already tried opening and closing the returns in each room accordingly but that has not helped.
Thanks

Hot air naturally going up. You need to enhance air circulation. Some thermostat has circulation mode. Booster fan in air outlet. Some ceiling fans in area, where no air circulation. All problem because of design of whole system. But change it very complicated.


How do I hang a chair from a concrete ceiling using a single hook? I'm putting in a "hanging chair" in the basement and it's supposed to hang from a single hook in the ceiling. The ceiling is reinforced concrete.

Now, I'm about 125 kilograms (275 lbs) so I reckon the hook should easily be able to bear twice that for safety. Is that a good enough margin?

What would be the easiest and best way to mount a hook in the ceiling that will hold about 250 kgs (550 lbs)?

Your margin of error sounds a bit low - one thing to bear in mind is that while the static force of you in the chair is half the rating of the hook, the peak force will be higher as you "drop" into the chair. If you can get a bigger hook it might be worth it.

If you have a hook on a plate then you'll spread the load across more bolts thus each one won't have to bear the full weight.


What should I do with the exposed grounding wire during a conversion from hardwired to plug in light fixture? I am working to convert a hard wire light fixture which I have purchased to a plug in light fixture. The light fixture was designed for outdoor use, but I will be using it inside. Coming out of the light fixture is what seems to be a regular lamp cord for the hot and neutral, but there is a an exposed copper ground wire that is not protected/sheathed.

I am concerned about the ground wire being exposed because I plan to take the fixture, splice it onto an extension cord or other lamp wire, but so the lamp wire will look better going down the wall, I plan to threat the wire through metal chain.

What should I do about the ground wire in this case, it seems odd that it is exposed and would be hanging out by itself, but this is in the installation diagram so I guess its on purpose. Can I just cut the ground off since this is for indoor usage or is it safe running along the main cord with the chain around it?

Should I just by a regular extension cord (if so what gauge/rating) or are there certain things I need to know based on the light to choose a more power cord for this purpose? Want to make sure I ground and protect everything.

Edit: Reference Photo

Lamp cord typically comes in 18/2, and 16/2 varieties. Neither of which has a grounding conductor. If the lamp...

is intended to be used indoors
will connect to the electrical system through a cord-and-plug attachment means
Does not have any exposed metal parts

you should be fine using a 2 wire attachment cord. However if the lamp...

will be used outdoors
will be hardwired
has exposed metal parts

then you should consider using an attachment cord with a grounding conductor, and connecting the grounding conductor to the grounding conductor in the fixture.


Can I trust my pressuretrol? My steam boiler, which supplies both heat and hot water, turned off a day or two ago, resulting in cold water. After some debugging, I found that the problem was with the pressuretrol, the device that turns the burner off when the boiler reaches operating pressure.  It is a very simple device, as shown here:

The brown box is a microswitch.  Below it is a lever.  The lever is pushed from below on the right side by a piston, which in turn is pushed by the steam.  On the left, the lever is anchored to an adjustable spring.  When the steam pressure is great enough to pull the spring, the switch opens and turns off the burner.

The problem was that either the lever or the piston was stuck. A very gentle touch with the screwdriver was enough to loosen it, and bliss and hot water was restored.

My question is, do I have to worry about the pressuretrol getting stuck in the closed (“on”) position, causing the pressure to rise too much and blow a pipe or (much more likely) an old, rusty radiator?  Should I have the pressuretrol replaced or inspected?

If your pressuretrol is truly acting up, I would replace it.  I'm sure you've already ensured the pigtail is free of sediment, etc.  In my experience as an HVAC controls tech, once mechanical controls start to act up, it's usually more cost effective to replace the item in question than continuing to rely on a compromised pressuretrol.  (Murphy's Law is in full effect here).

Nothing like waking up mid-winter for work with zero hot water and a replacement pressuretrol is backordered (no, this has never happened to me before...)

You have a high pressure safety relief for the boiler if in fact the pressuretrol did stick on, so you're covered from catastrophic events - however ensuring your BMS is working properly is more important.  Plus if that safety lifts, if the overpressure in the system hasn't damaged any control valve(s) - you're still gonna have a huge mess on your hands.

Basically - don't rely on built in safeties to protect you from out of bounds conditions you can control :)


How to remove corroded faucet? I am trying to replace my kitchen faucet but the nut holding it onto the sink is corroded and the nut won't budge! I have tried a basin wrench (as someone suggested here), wd40, hammering at those notches with a screwdriver and am not getting any movement. How can I get rid of this faucet? I don’t mind destroying it as I have a replacement already in hand.

As somebody in your other question noted, you probably have to attack this from the top. A hacksaw will be time (and arm) consuming. An oscillating multitool with a metal-capable blade would be good though slow-ish. An angle grinder would be fast but will also throw sparks and has the non-trivial risk of having the grinder catch and run into stuff you don't want ground, like the backsplash.

Alternately, you might try to drill out a weakness in the nut with either a large drill bit or linked smaller ones. That would allow you to pry it loose.


Why is there open/deadspace under most wooden furniture I am in the design phase of a chest of drawers project, and it occurred to me that nearly every piece of wooden furniture I have seen has a 2-4 inch gap under it.  Often this has the furniture up on short legs, but even where the front/sides come to the floor, the back is open.  I am trying to figure out if there is a particular reason for this feature?

The main reason is that woodworking of old days, Joinery was more of an art than a mechanised given. The structure was designed to accommodate for wood settling and fluctuating due to weather conditions (humidity etc) ...

Basically, the most stable structure was one, where the weight rested on the four points which were the most stable (the legs or balls) As Rozwel noted, a flat board on the floor would be susceptible to high points which would unsettle the joinery of the piece as the wood base would most certainly flex to accommodate for the high point and in doing so, throw the piece out of square.

Short answer, the four contact points would lead to a more stable cabinet over a more diverse set of floor types.