My lamp was making a noise. Now it won't turn on. How to fix? The lamps in my bathroom was blinking and making a hissing noise. I think the noise was coming from just one of the lamps but I'm not sure.

Now I don't have any light / power in the bathroom.

I replaced all the fuses even though I don't think any of them were broken.

I removed the light socket that I think may have caused a shirt circuit. So now I have two wires sticking out of the lamp in the ceiling.

No power in the bathroom still.

I still have light and power in the rest of my apartment.

Coild it be a short circuit in the wiring in the walls? Wouldn't that result in a broken fuse the moment I try to turn on the power?

I guess it's obvious by this post I know very little about the subject.

Any suggestions to what could be wrong and how to fix it?

Janey

You need to troubleshoot the problem and this is best done with an electrical portable meter. You probably don't have one, a local harware store would have it. Safety first in everything you do here. If you have fuses remove it from the bathroom circuit at the main panel.
The "lamps" in the bathroom need to be tested in another location and the wiring coming into the electrical boxes need to be inspected (this includes the switch box) and I recommend a new light fixture and/or a new light switch hardwired in the bathroom. Then replace the bathroom fuse at the main panel and flip the light switch on. Good luck.


Can I run a 50 amp circuit for a hot tub from a 60 amp sub panel I recently had a pool installed with a commercial water slide. My sub panel is a 60 amp panel fed from a 200 amp main panel 70 feet away with 4 awg wire. The main and sub panels both have 60 amp breakers. I have 2 pumps powered off of this panel. Both are wired to separate 20 amp 240v circuits. I have 2 120v outlets on separate 20 amp circuits. 1 feeds an outlet for a natural gas pool heater and the other is an unused convenience outlet. The pumps are a 1 hp for the pool and a 3 hp for the slide. I want to add a hot tub next year. Is the sub panel and wiring sufficient to run a 50 amp circuit for the hot tub?

It would be nice to have some of the electrical data for the hot tub. If it's going to be a 5.5KW heater and a 3 HP pump and with everything running , you'd be ok.


Technique or tool to properly expose LED strip wires? So I have cuttable, weatherproof led strips with the flexible silicone coating domed over the strip.  I just have cut a correct length piece of a strip. Now both ends has four copper connectors. I want to expose those copper wires in one end.

So I first cut:

...____________________________
        ___    ___   |         | <-- rubber/silicon or other transparent material
...____|LED|__|LED|__|__ wires_|
   ^Adhesive tape    ^ *Cut here*

First possible problem here is cutting too deep and cutting off one of the wires.

Next is trying to get rid off the top material on the wires. Problems here are that:

If the initial cut started a small tear that now when you pull that tiny piece off it can tear some or all wires off
If the cut was too deep then you're just ripping the whole wire part right off
If the transparent material is very well stuck to the strip and whole wire part just comes right off when trying to pull the material on top off the wires

Next is that there's a very thin film on top of the wires or some wire(s).

I've tried to burn it off with soldering iron and sometimes it just smears the material over the wires or damages the strip so that the whole strip won't work or one color won't work anymore. I've also tried scraping it with sharp knife and the problems are the same (damaging wires or just smearing).

Is there tools such as the RJ45 ethernet crimping tool used with ethernet cables but for LED strips, or proper technique to expose those wires properly?

It's costly to try and fail and then cut yet another 10-30 cm off the strip and try again.

I have used weatherproof LED strips like in the picture below.  My technique was:

Cut the strip to length at one of the designated places with sharp scissors.
Using a not-to-sharp knife ( I used my pocket knife rather than a razor blade ), cut through the rubber coating perpendicular to the strip.  Cutting into the wires or plastic backing strip shouldn't be an issue with an old knife, but still be careful.  if soldering, you only need to cut back enough rubber to clear off the contacts.  If using the crimp connectors, use a connector to measure where the rubber should be stripped (about 1/2" back).
Bend the strip along the cut that you made.  You should only have to bend it about 90 degrees.  This will make the cut open up.  If you didn't cut all the way through the rubber, that will be obvious now, and it should be easier to cut the remaining material.
Using your fingernail or your old knife blade, try to get under the rubber layer and start peeling it off.  On my strips, once I was able to get it started, the whole chunk would peel cleanly off.
If the rubber shreds or does not come off, use the knife to continue peeling any residue off.  If necessary, lay the strip on a hard surface and use the knife to scrape residue by holding the knife blade perpendicular to the strip.  If you angle the knife, there is a greater chance of cutting the strip.

image taken from: http://www.usledsupply.com/shop/z-how-to-RGB-strip-wire-solder

I have not used their how-to, I have only used the non-solder connectors.  I was able to make my splices look much cleaner, but I couldn't find a better image.


Running 100 amp wire for future use - how many wires do i run? i am finishing up my basement and about to close up the walls.Before i close the walls, i want to run 100 amp wire from the circuit panel, located on one side of the house, to the other side of the house where my boiler is located (Aprox. 300ft of wire). The wire will not be connected to ANYTHING. I just want the wire to be there for a future detach garage.

My question is how many wires do i need to run? Do i need to run a ground wire too? or, Just one 100 amp cooper/aluminum wire.

Does the wire configuration change for 110 vs 220?

Also, do i need to protect it with some type of piping/conduit?

I am in Ny if that makes a difference.

Again, it is just running the wire from point A -> B so the future electrician doesn't have to break walls.

Run a 1.5" RMC

The 60%-of-width limit on bored holes in non-load-bearing studs from IRC R602.6 limits the maximum size of conduit that can be run within a 2x4 partition or furring-wall to 1.5" trade size (2" trade size conduit has a minimum OD of about 2.2", which exceeds the 2.1" limit that 60% of the 3.5" actual stud width/depth sets).

The best choice here then, balancing availability with usable fill, is a 1.5" RMC.  This gives you just enough space, at 533mm2 available vs. 528.9mm2 consumed, for a feeder consisting of 3 4/0 Al XHHW-2 wires, with the RMC as the ground.  This would allow you to bring 175A maximum, or 100A with voltage drop held below 3%, to the garage, which is adequate for whatever you, or just about anyone else, would want there.

Considering this is merely a provision, though, I would simply run the conduit for now, leaving it unpopulated with wires until the garage is built.


How do I remove vinyl underlayment? In the process of replacing our carpets with laminate flooring, I originally elected to retain a 6' x 6' patch of vinyl at the front door. Living in Minnesota and hosting visitors even during our winters, I thought this would be a nice and practical solution to as-yet unknown potential wetness problems.

The problem is that this looks horrible, and it just makes a lot of sense for us to lay consistent flooring right up to the front door, and maybe throw on a rug or something similar at the entrance.

The vinyl sheet is attached to some sort of underlayment. I peeled off part of the vinyl (and scraped off some of the adhesive) and it looks like strips of some sort of plywood. Don't know if it's luaun or other material, but it's definitely cross-grained plywood. I do see staples in a few places, but don't know if such underlayment is typically also glued on.

This is on the first floor, above an unfinished basement.

What would be the best way of removing this, underlayment and all? Essentially, I need to make sure we have subfloor all the way so I can complete laying laminate here.

Here's a photo of the partially-peeled off vinyl:

I cut the vinyl sheet apart with an Exacto knife, and scraped off some of the adhesive. It isn't very obvious in the photo, but the underlayment looks to be laid in strips.

Done. Turns out that there's no glue under the underlayment, instead it's just luaun plywood sheets that are stapled extremely well to the subfloor. Once I was able to grab an edge, it was relatively easy to pry the entire thing off, one sheet at a time.


Should I release the pressure out of an air compressor when it is not in use? Just got a new compressor and I wondering if I should be releasing all of the pressure out of the unit when it is not in use?  Or is it better to leave the pressure in so that the unit does not have to work as hard to build up the pressure next time?

I am not planning on using the unit daily.  Mostly for weekend projects and regular maintenance (airing up car tires... etc).

The instruction manual for my Sears Craftsman 3 gal., 1 hp, Horizontal Tank states to drain the tank after each use or daily and also for storage.  The water that may be in the tank could corrode and damage the tank.


Connecting a light-switch to turn thermostat on/off? (re: basement heat) Is it possible to connect a simple light-switch to a thermostat?

I'd like to have a thermostat in my basement set to 72 degrees.  However, I want it completely turned off most of the time.  I was thinking about placing a light-switch at the top of the basement stairs, so when I think I'm going downstairs I can flip the switch to enable the thermostat and when I leave I can turn it off.

Is this possible?

Yes, that should be very straightforward.  Simply wire the switch to interrupt the "W" wire, which is the one the thermostat uses to ask for heat.  Its request will be unanswered obviously.  Do this between the thermostat and what I presume is a big relay with a 24v coil that switches the 240v power on to the heaters.  Turn the 240v off at the breakers before touching the 24v signal line, in the off chance the transformer or relay has a 240v-24v fault of some kind.

As long as it's an old fashioned dumb thermostat, that'll be fine.  Now, if you ever fit a Nest or other smart thermostat, different story.  It configures by sensing if a relay coil is connected to each wire. It will not like a relay that disappears entirely.


Can a new ceiling be build directly onto an old one I would like to build a new ceiling on to an old slightly sagging and poorly finished ceiling (peeling paint and no joint plaster used). I see this way as more convenient and less messy than ripping off the old ceiling. I intend to screw 70mm or 90mm x 35mm (3" or 4" x "1.5") battens onto the existing ceiling joists through the old plaster. I guess this is equivalent to a false ceiling.

Although old, inadequately rated ceiling insulation already exists above the 'old' plaster I want to add newer and better rated insulation between the two ceilings. This will be held in place with metal strapping attached on the downside of the battens before the new ceiling plaster is attached.

Are there any negative aspects to having the insulation enclosed like this? - such as the creation of a moisture trap, for example.

Adding a new drywall ceiling over an old bad, but solid surface is very common.  Looking at your question, the only part of your plan I question is the use of 2X4 strapping.

I understand the need to add some extra insulation, however sandwiching it between the two layers of ceiling may not be the best idea. I'd rather you consider installing the extra insulation over the top of the old ceiling. Blow in some cellulose or roll some fiberglass batts would be a good option. There are a couple of reasons.

First; using 2X4's will lower your ceiling height an extra 3 1/2 inches if they are installed vertically to create a 3 1/2 gap for insulation. You may find it very difficult to level and attach them. You would have to use very long screws.

Second; although I don't think it would be a moisture trap for normal migration, it would be a horror show if for any reason you had a leak from above. Any water that would penetrate the ceiling would be absorbed in the middle insulation and probably foster mold and extensive water staining of your new ceiling. This situation would be impossible to fix without tearing out sections of your new ceiling.

This is the way we usually install a new drywall coat:

Secure any loose areas of plaster with screws or remove them.

Determine the lowest point of the ceiling. This will be the reference point for the rest of the ceiling. I use a laser and a tape measure to find the low spot and mark a reference line on the walls 2 inches below that point. You could rent a laser or buy a basic 360 degree model for around $70. The old fashion way is to use a water level or run very taught level strings.

Using 2 1/2" X 3/4" strapping, run them perpendicular to the ceiling joists at 16" on center. Shim these using tapered shingles or small wood shims to the 2" reference. (Again using your laser and tape measure) Nail these into the joists. I use 2 1/2 inch threaded nails in my framing nailer. Fill in around the parameter of the room with strapping. This procedure will give you a nice flat, secure and level grid to install your new drywall on.

Don't forget to install extension boxes for any electrical fixtures.


Can I use slot shelving in a wooden shed? Our wooden shed in the back garden is filling up with items that are currently stashed on the floor. I'm planning to construct some kind of shelving to store things. Whilst none of the items are hugely heavy, I imagine that each shelf would need to bear 20-30kg. I will put in 4 or 5 shelves on/against a wall, each with a depth of at 30cm (or more, if I can).

The shed is sound. The main structure is constructed out of 2 x 1 timber studwork. It has a standard peaked roof.

I can think of three options, here listed in what I believe to be increasing order of difficulty and cost:

1) Can I use regular slot shelving (e.g. plywood) attached to the timber studwork, or are those not strong enough to support well-loaded shelves? I don't want to overload the structure of the shed and risk damaging it.

2) Or should I construct shelving out of 2 x 4 timber and screw that onto the studwork? That way I can attach to three walls in total (assuming I span the entire wall)

3) Alternatively, I will build a free standing solution, but this will require more work and more wood.

I'm concerned that I can't find any images / articles about slot shelving in wooden sheds, so perhaps (1) is cutting too many corners.

Thanks for your thoughts.

So, from the comments, I assume you mean "slot shelving" to be shelf standards like this:

If this is what you mean, then you should be able to use them, and are quite handy for adjusting the spacing. Biggest issue here is getting the proper ones for the weight of the shelves. More standards (the upright slotted bar) you have will allow for better weight management. Using a double slot standard, and you have better weight capability also. Now, depending on the mounting method, the standards used, the brackets, and the shelf materials, you will be able to determine the weight you can add. The components will list the max weight. But be sure you add the weight of the brackets and shelf material. If it says 100lbs, and the brackets are 1lb and the material is 5lb, and you have 2 standards, 2 brackets and 1 shelf, then you have a limit of 93lbs per shelf. Just a simple example.

Now, building your won from 2x4 studs and attaching to the framework studs of the building, would in essence be the same thing, but would increase the weight of the shelving system, reducing how much weight the shelves can hold.

Your best bet, would be to build free-standing shelves as you are only limited by materials you use to build them, you can even build them to have movable shelves with slots and pins, but this would change the weight limit. This method would have no weight bearing on the structure.

So, in closing, you could you any of the 3 methods you have mentioned. I have used the slotted shelf standards like pictured in my new pantry so that I can adjust the shelves as needed. In my shed I have free standing shelves that I got free from a business tossing out old shelving systems. My garage has a combination of free standing plastic shelf systems, as well as the slotted standard shelf systems, because I was cheap and used what I had from various other projects. I even have some shelves that are mounted to decorative shelf brackets. That is also an option for you.

Not finding info on shelves in a shed is not an issue, because every shed is built differently. Plastic, metal, wood, lean-to, free-standing, attached or detached. In my case it is an attached with one wall of the shed being the rear wall of the garage.


What tool do I use to remove this wide and flat screw-esque thing? I need access to the wires behind my porch light and need to remove this thing to do it. It's very wide and flat

What tool do I use to remove it?

Edit: it is larger than a quarter.

Also what is it called?

They're plastic electrical box knockout plugs and they are included with weatherproof electrical boxes. I've never seen or heard of a tool designed specifically to install/remove them. A large slotted screwdriver is probably the most used item and is what's shown in the box instructions.


Electrolux vacuum lightbulb keeps burning out? Asking for a relative. Older Electrolux Canister Vacuum with a light in the power head. May be model 6500. Bulbs keep burning out quickly. In a month he's gone through 4 bulbs.

Any idea what could be causing this and what can be done to correct it?

Update: He wound up taking it in for repair and the belt needed to be replaced and there was something blocking the rollers from spinning. This was causing excessive heat which was contributing the to bulbs burning out so quickly according to the repair person.

It looks like its a B15 bayonet base, try https://www.ecolume.co.uk see if they have one in LED.


Choosing a power supply, breaker amperage and wire size for a 220V welder I have a new SMAW welding machine (80-250A) and I want to use it at home. I don't know yet how to make an outlet for it. Would it be correct to plug it into an outlet in my house with a 15-amp breaker?

US Power grid?

Is it correct to plug it into a 15A circuit is easily answered by the manual.

What is the input current listed in the manual or on the Welder dataplate?

And 220V will only come from a 15A circuit if your house has one wired (NEMA 6-15 or L6-15 Socket) to an appropriate ganged circuit breaker and the welder has that plug installed.

DO NOT CHANGE THE PLUG ON THE WELDER!!!

Have the appropriate circuit installed to match to what the welder expects for input voltage and current if you do not already have it available.

Given past experience, it will be 220V and a 30A or higher circuit with appropriately sized wire for current and distance to the socket and matching ganged 220V circuit breakers. Ampacity charts need to be consulted.

NEMA power sockets to help identify what your SMAW welder is expecting for input current.

NOTE: While the NEMA 6-15 and NEMA 6-30 look similar, the 30A plug is larger in diameter.


Why does my painted wooden post have brush lines? This wooden door frame (see photo below) was painted high-gloss white a month or two ago. Using cheap paint and a cheap paint brush. The surface was superficially sanded (previously painted a number of times before), but cleaned quite well.

If I remember correctly, the ambient temperature would have been around 11-15C/50-60F.

Unless you pay attention it's not super obvious, but when you look you can see this effect, and you can very definitely feel the ridges when you go over them with your finger nails. I took the picture while shining a harsh LED light on it to make it more visible.

What could be the reason for this paint effect? I can think of paint quality, brush quality or not enough prep, incorrect application (although I don't regularly pain, I have painted quite a bit, and never seen the before). Or something else. Or perhaps it's impossible to tell from just a picture.

Could this be buffed out with a very high grit sandpaper or abrasive gel? Without losing the gloss.

That you have never seen brush lines before you have been very lucky.
All of your ideas can affect how the paint goes on, cheap brushes, cheap paint are big ones but, the main reason I see for excessive lines is over working the paint so it won’t flow.
when I do cabinets I don’t even try a brush but spray the paint and have used additives like floetrol a paint additive when I want glass smooth finishes.
Sanding with a really light sandpaper will take the shine off, if I am putting a second coat on doors to get that perfect finish I will use 600 or finer paper wet to buff the door prior to the second coat if it is needed. I normally do this with clear varnish several times to get a real depth to the work, but not often on paints.
You could sand the high ridges and reapply but make sure to over work the paint I see people put paint down spread it out then come back in a minute or 2 and run the brush over it again, this is when the brush marks stay or because of what I was taught is over working the paint.


Why does my outlet have two white wires on the neutral side and one "neutral" wire is hot? The breaker for my microwave tripped and when I turned the breaker back on it tripped again after using the microwave again. I tested the microwave in another outlet and it works fine. I went to replace the outlet and I found a black wire, two white on the same side, and ground. I turned off the breaker and tested the wires only to find that one white wire still has 120v where all other wires are dead. Why is that wire supplying voltage on the neutral side?

You could be dealing with 1/2 switched receptacles. 1 part of the receptacle is controlled by a wall switch that will allow table lamps and etc to controlled by that wall switch. My whole house is wired that way. Half the receptacle is wired always hot and the other is controlled by a switch. Check it out.


Condensation between chair mat and rug in basement: a concern? We have a 1960 two story colonial with a finished basement in New England. The basement floor is wall-to-wall rug, on a rug pad, on old vinyl tiles, and then a concrete slab; I assume there's no explicit water control anywhere. We're on top of a well-drained hill, so standing water hasn't been a problem, although the basement can get a bit humid in the summer.
Two weeks ago I put down a 4' x 5' clear plastic chair mat in front of my basement desk. Today I noticed that moisture is condensing under parts of the mat; if I lift the mat up there are drops of water condensed on its bottom surface, and the rug feels damp.
BTW, I believe the affected areas are where the water pipes from the boiler to the radiators run through the slab. I can track the pipes with an IR thermometer; the rug over the pipes is about 5°F warmer than the rest of the rug. A second mat, which has no pipes under it, isn't showing condensation.
I assume that if I do nothing I'll get an unlicensed ecosystem (i.e. mold) under the mat. Without pulling up the rug is there anything I can do to reduce the moisture?

Unfortunately, unsealed concrete slabs are fairly water-permeable, so the moisture level in the concrete will be pretty high. Until now the moisture has wicked through the rug and evaporated into the air, but it's now building up under the mat. Having the heating pipes in the concrete makes it worse, evaporating the water up through the rug; since the mat is cooled by the (cooler) basement air the water condenses on it.
Having a water-saturated rug, especially one that's warmed by the heating system, is asking for trouble.
Pulling up the rug and adding a waterproof layer would likely help, but that may not be in the cards; for now remove the mat and accept that the chair may damage the rug.


Is it OK to have the kitchen drain and roof vent on the same line? Can the kitchen drain wet vent be on the same vertical pipe as the air vent going out the 2" roof? I also have a sanitary tee attached on the top that attaches the vent for the washing machine. Just wondering if this is okay to pass code?

Click photo for full size image

As Ecnerwal indicated, there is no problem as far as fixture units for a sink and washer, but there may be more to this than what has been presented. Exactly what is the vent the sink is attached to venting? And where? Same floor or lower floor? Depending on what is being vented, you could be exceeding the allowable wet vent capacity.

Also, if the vent is for fixtures on a different level, you could have a problem, depending on what code is in effect. Some codes only allow vertical wet vents where all fixtures involved are on the same level. 2 feet of wet vent is not nearly as bad as 10 feet of wet vent.

Using a santee instead of a vent tee was not the best choice. Of course it will work fine, but someone could claim the baffle is preventing proper cleanout access. I'd say it is more of a technical violation than a real problem.

Not knowing what is being vented through the sink drain and not knowing what code is in effect, the only real advice I can give is the same as Ecnerwal: Check with your local authority having jurisdiction.


What's causing my washer to stop running during the wash cycle? I have an Frigidaire Affinity washer that runs perfectly fine, (all the way through wash & rinse cycles), when empty, but as soon as you put even a small load of clothes in it, it stops working halfway through the wash cycle, leaving a tub half full of water and very wet clothes. I noticed that when this happens the timer resets to the start of the wash cycle, and then will shut off after about 15 minutes.  What could be causing this sort of behavior?  The machine is only 4 years old and is all digital.

The machine is not emptying properly for some reason.  All washing machines are designed never to spin whilst full of water.  The default is either to pause indefinitely or reset the program.  It's odd that the machine is fine when empty though.

I would still do the following before calling out a repair company.

Check that it isn't blocked or partially blocked.  If the machine has a service panel at the base then it might have a round filter dial that when turned comes out of the machine (plus old baby socks, coins etc).  Make sure to grab loads of old towels and put them around the base of the machine before doing this.  The machine might have several litres of water or more still in it.  If you can see water inside the machine then you will need a lot of towels when unblocking the filter... you have been warned ;)  Get a well insured friend to do it otherwise :D
Make sure that the grey waste hose at the back of the machine is not trapped.
Make sure that the grey waste hose is not higher than the machine or pushed too far into the drain pipe.  This can cause water to back up into the machine and complicate matters.
The machine might have a coin lodged in the pump or something similar.  Listen for any rattles when it is emptying.  You should at least hear a churning sound coming from the pump.
Give the door a push in case the lock is faulty and the clothing is pushing outward causing the lock to break a circuit.
Check that both Hot and Cold water are actually going into the machine.  If you have turned the Hot off at the wall and the machine has an economy mode then it is waiting for hot water.


Re-using Stud hole in wall I have a guitar hanger that I didn't put together tightly enough so it loosened over time, and I want to tighten it and hang it again. It was put into a stud and I was wondering if I could reuse the existing holes, possibly with just a larger diameter screw.

You could use a larger screw or a longer screw if you stripped out the original hole.


Dark hardwood floor stain More of a general question regarding floor staining.

We are removing the carpet to expose and use the hardwood floors. Floor boards are in good condition, and already have a finish. Some old paint splatter, which will be easy enough to remove. Plan is to fill in holes from nail punch and then restain.

All floor boards have a consistent colour. The one exception is the floorboards of the hallway, which seem to be a very dark colour. We will sand and finish, but my general question is, whether this stark contrast in finishing is something people have come across before.

Need more photos- but do you mean on the right? If so that looks to be more junk on top of your floor.

You may have to, depending on how bad they are, lever them out and flip them upside down. I had to rotate and flip about 30 boards in my house, and they came out just fine. I ended up getting some red oak stock as well to make the few I couldn't fix, but put them out of the way in corners.

Follow the guides for sanding and it should come up. However you may still have to flip them if they don't look right. Take for instance the nails- they've wrecked the wood around them and you won't bleach them out with Oxalate easily. Personally I wouldn't judge that harshly if I saw nails like that because I believe it adds character. And using oxalate is nasty.

Once everything was drum sanded down (be careful!), stained, and sealed, the place looked gorgeous.

-at least until a pipe burst and flooded everything in the middle of winter, gutting the place.


How to repair after drilling through an electrical cable Drilled directly into this wire.  Didn't trip a breaker, no sparks, didn't get zapped, didn't lose power anywhere.  I know when we had previous work done on the house, there was a 220 wire that was dead in the walls/ceiling.  Contractor traced it back to the box and it was disconnected there too.  Did I happen to get extremely lucky and hit the one wire in there that wasn't live?  Now what do I do? Also, out of curiousity, had that wire been live how likely would the risk of severe injury been from a screw up like this?

Now what do I do?

I would suggest shutting off power to the building, double checking that the damaged cable is not live then tracing it to see where it goes.

It probably means cutting out the damaged portion and splicing in a section of new cable using joins that are approved by your local code for use in inaccessible places (that is, not in a junction box with a cover plate on a wall surface).

If your local code doesn't allow this you'd probably have to remove all the damaged cable between accessible junction boxes.

See Can cable splice devices be concealed?


When I turn down the dimmer switch on my lights, do I actually use less electricity? My wife and I have several lights on dimmer switches throughout our home. We generally prefer the ambient lighting provided by dimmed lights. I am curious, though, if we are saving any electricity by dimming the lights. I feel like I read somewhere that dimmers work by rapidly turning on and off the current to a light, though it's just as likely I fundamentally don't understand how a dimmer switch works.

Yes. And here's why.
Rheostat dimmers
Old dimmers, used a variable resister to dim the light. Lets look at a simple example.

We can find total resistance (RT), by adding up all the resistance.
RT = R1 + R2 = 0 Ohms + 144 Ohms = 144 Ohms
Then we can find the total current (IT).
IT = ET / RT = 120V / 144 Ohms = .83A
We'll then calculate the voltage across each resistive load.
E1 = IT * R1 = .83A * 0 Ohms = 0V
E2 = IT * R2 = .83A * 144 Ohms = 120V
Finally, we'll calculate the total wattage (WT)
WT = V^2/R = 120V ^2 / 144 Ohms = 100 Watts
Lets see what happens when we increase the resistance of R1

RT = 200 Ohms + 144 Ohms = 344 Ohms
IT = 120V / 344 Ohms = .349A
E1 = .349A * 200 Ohms = 69.77V
E2 = .349A * 144 Ohms = 50.23V
WT = 120V ^2 / 344 = 41.86 Watts
As you can see, we've increased the resistance of R1 and effectively reduced the voltage across R2. And now we have a dim light.
Thyristor dimmer
Modern dimmers use a TRIAC, to reduce the amount of time the light is on. However, because of the circuitry in the dimmer, there is not a direct 1:1 energy savings. Dimming the light to 50%, will not equate to a 50% savings in electricity.
A typical waveform in an AC system would look like this.

A TRIAC prevents electricity from flowing every time voltage reaches 0, something like this.

So you end up with a waveform that looks like this.

With the TRIAC, the light is actually turning off and on 120 times per second. With every cycle, you're saving a small amount of power.  Is it enough to actually see on your electric bill? I guess it would depend on how long the lights are on, and what percentage they are dimmed.


Adding an outlet above this metal box I'm trying to install a new outlet about 3 feet above an existing outlet (for a wall-mounted TV). It appears that the existing outlet is in the middle of the run, so I'm not sure how I would add the existing outlet. Can I connect the new outlet to what I believe is the plastic push connector? (There appears to be room for one more set of wires.) Or can I wire the new outlet directly to the existing outlet? I've included a photo of the existing outlet below.

Electrically, you can go either way

Attaching to the push connector or attaching to the backstabs or screws is 3 of one, half dozen of the other.

I mean, backstabs (and push connectors) are known to be unreliable, so you take your chances of having an hours-long, frustrating bug hunt.  Screws are more reliable, but you must torque them adequately.

A better option might be to switch to a screw-and-clamp type receptacle, which can support 4 wires in special grooves under its screws (2 per screw).  Assuming Code allows this; the choice of push connector for 2 wires is an odd one since there are already 2 receptacle backstabs.  I suspect there may be a local amendment that requires the push connectors and pigtailing.

Cablewise is a different problem

This appears to be modern construction using steel sheathed AC cable instead of non-metallic.  Note how there are no grounds in the box; those are on the AC cable and secured by the AC cable's clamps.

Nobody uses AC cable instead of Romex for no reason.  This is certainly due to a local amendment requiring it.  This means you also need to use AC cable or proper EMT conduit.

The problem is your cable needs to go upward.  The two upward holes in the junction box are already occupied.  This means you will have to come into the bottom and go upward, or relocate one of the existing cables to side or bottom if possible.


Is it worth replacing this flex pipe with hardpipe We're the second owners of a home built in 2015, and a HVAC technician recently pointed out that our basement furnace piping uses long runs of flex pipe, where hardpipe should have been laid.  He said that airflow can become turbulent in these and will be improved with hard piping.
Looking to confirm this information.  My residence is a 2200sqft + finished basement with a decent furnace system.  Is the air flow in such a residence typically fast enough such that runs of flex piping would disrupt airflow?  I have noticed that vents in the first floor that attach to these do feel weaker than the ones in the second floor of my house and thought maybe this was the reason.

Flex pipe is the lazy way to put in ducting.
I think it should not be allowed for trunk lines and yes you were told correctly it is not as efficient because of the turbulence.
I am guessing this was a diy home because of the cobbled sections of round pipe to flex duct in the photo.
Unfortunately some use it more than others I only use it for short sections from the trunk to the registers.
Installing regular pipe will improve the flow the longer the flex replaced the bigger the improvement in flow you will see.


any possibility that I may have damaged a wire in the wall? This is what happened a few hours back while I was installing a shelf in the bathroom.

The shelf requires three screws, but according to the stud finder, the screw locations I wanted didn't align with the studs. So I decided to use drywall anchors(a self-drilling type anchor about 1.5" long https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Twist-N-Lock-75-lbs-Medium-Duty-Drywall-Anchors-50-Pack-25310/100040265) and pre-drill holes for the them. One of the hole locations was somewhat close to a gfci outlet, so I did AC scan using the stud finder and it didn't report anything.

So I went ahead and drilled a hole. However, when I manually screwed the anchor with a screw driver about one inch into the drywall, it felt like something was hit, so I took it out and pushed in my screw driver into the hole. To my horror, it hit something like rubber band inside wall, and I am pretty sure that it is a wire from that outlet, likely running horizontally since there was no stud.

I didn't notice anything abnormal - no sparks, no light out or flickering, no breaker tripping - and the outlet is working.

When drilling I believe I stopped as soon as the drill went through the drywall but the drill bit was likely pushed in a little further. Also, the tip of the anchor (plastic) is sharp. How likely is it that I damaged the wire? Should I worry and really open up the wall to check?

I think the chance is pretty slim, but I am being cautious and also a complete novice when it comes to diy and electric stuff, so will need some advice. Thanks in advance.

I have seen many damaged wires inside walls when remodeling, some with the outside jacket and both the conductors and ground exposed. Some have even damaged the wires because of visible arcs I know the breaker was tripped. Others just skinned the wires or the jacket (this doesn’t include the wires I was called to repair where they were severed in the walls). I was quite surprised on a few that they continued to work. All of this said it takes quite a bit of friction to cut through a unsupported piece of Romex. It sounds like you were careful and if you cannot see any damage and did not trip the breaker or GFCI things are probably ok. I would check the light and fan as that could have been a switched cable and the reason it did not show as hot was it was turned off. Then we can think of all the calls where the wires were cut. I would not be worried about most plastic anchors except the self drilling type. Of course the only way to know for absolute sure is to open the wall or use a bore scope to inspect but my guess with no arcs and sparks , tripped breakers or getting shocked if everything still works it’s probably fine. The last quick thing is all of these anchors are usually shorter than 1-1/4” the romex is supposed to be in holes or stapled that far back , so it was probably flopping around making it harder to cut through the insulation.


What is the name of the part used to fasten a pendant light cable to the ceiling circuitry case I'm looking to purchase this part (see image below) but cannot find the name.

The part is located on the case mounted to the ceiling from which the cable to the pendant light comes down. One half is inside and the other on the outside of the case. It tightens the cable to the case so the cable cannot move up and down - otherwise potentially causing interference with the circuitry above.

The tip beyond the left thread tightens/holds the cable in place while screwing the cap on also secures it to the ceiling circuitry cover. I don't need the threads on the right side.

I bought a bunch of pendant lights but they were recalled due to missing these components and the potential safety issue mentioned above. Rather than removing and returning them I'd like to just add this piece.

Q: What are these called?

I searched "pendant lamp strain relief" and found all kinds of them with various names, such as "cable gland", "hanging lamp bushing", etc. Use your Google Fu, which is like Kung Fu for the Internet of Things.


Good technique to trim 2mm or 1/16inch off 2x4 (without a drop saw) Simple noob question: cutting 2x4's to length, need to make a tight fit (no two the exact same length) so often need to trim 1mm to 4mm (say 1/16 to 1/8th inch) off the end.

Without a dropsaw or skillsaw, what's a good way to do this?  (lengths cut with handsaw) Never used a plane - is it a good tool for this job / do they cut across the grain?

Currently using a random orbital w/ 40 grit. Does the job but there has to be a better way.

Cheers.

A block plane will do the job - end grain is their forte. Needs to be sharp, like you may never have seen sharp, if you have not used planes before.You'll also want to set the one you are shortening up against a scrap piece so that the plane does not tear-out as it leaves the edge of the board. Just let it stick out a millimeter or two beyond the supporting scrap.


Ideas for levelling partial flooring for kitchen furniture My kitchen flooring consists of a click-type wood floor laid on top of an old vinyl layer, which again rests on concrete. After tearing down the previous owner's kitchen, I learned that the cabinets, stove and sink rested on the concrete and had none of the wood (or vinyl) flooring underneath them. The new kitchen furniture will cover all the now exposed concrete, as well as parts of the wood not covered by the old furniture. The furniture to be installed has some adjustability for uneven flooring, but not enough for the approximately 3 cm difference between the concrete and the wood.

I'd rather not re-lay the entire floor, if I can avoid it. The wood is in great condition, and I'm not sure I could find the exact same type to simply complete it. It also feels like a waste of money to floor an area that will be fully hidden by kitchen furniture. To me, the obviously simplest way to prepare for the new furniture seems to be lay down wooden boards approximately 3 cm thick for the legs of the new furniture to stand on. I am, however, afraid that perhaps the wood will compress very differently from the wood floor, causing problems. Is this a legitimate worry? Does anyone have any ideas on how I should procede? Should I perhaps use floor planks of a similary type as used for the floor instead of just simple wooden boards?

I hope I've been sufficiently clear in my description, and that someone has some tips for me.

Below is a sketch of the kitchen.

Brown: wood floor.
Grey: exposed concrete approximately 3 cm below wood floor.
Transparent red: extent of kitchen furniture to be installed.
Black outline: illustration of the wood board suggestion described above.

If it's not visible, just got for a manufactured board, e.g. plywood, OSB, etc.  For 3cm, you may be looking at two pieces stacked on top of each other.  If it's on concrete, install a moisture barrier first.  To secure the boards, I'd avoid the temptation to use a Ramset and permanently drive the names into the cement, since the next time the flooring is redone, you can take the opportunity to do it right and pull everything up and go wall to wall.  Instead, secure it with a few cut nails.  Again, this all assumes that none of this is visible.

(source: jmnails.com)


Particle board desk top reinforcement - do i need it? how to do it? I'm putting together a desktop for my pc working space and I'm on a tight budget. I ordered a particle board kitchen counter top, 38 mm thick (1.496"), which also will be laminated with HPL. The dimensions are 140 x 80 cm (55.118" x 31.496").  I'll be putting it together with 4 independent legs at the corners (no frame here). I'll put an LCD monitor on top of the desk with a new "wooden" raising stand under it (but a 2nd monitor might show up in some time) + additional accessories (keyboard, small speakers, a lamp, pen baskets etc.) + resting my forearms (at least half of them) on the top.

Now, do i have to reinforce it, so the middle won't sag or bend? People whom i ordered the top from told me it's thick enough and it shouldn't bend, but if it happens slightly in 2-3 years i should add a 5th leg in the middle. If i need to reinforce, how do i go about it? Should i screw some sort of a flat metal panel on the bottom to follow the long edge? An aluminum profile? Or maybe a wooden board would be enough? Wouldn't the metal reinforcement add to the overall weight?

I would make a frame underneath about 2” in from each edge screwed and glued. 2*1 would be good and that will give some support to the legs, possibly some bracing for the legs - a horizontal bar that could also be a footrest across the back or diagonal bracing like an X.

Edit: the desk I am at has a frame of 20mm * 65mm and the same 38mm thickness top that you mention but it is not particle board (particle board is weaker than some glued timber block table tops) so take note of Isherwood's comment about 2*3"...


What type Roof Vent is best to reduce ACU heat load? Currently have a split level with 600 sq ft each with 1 turbine and 1 louvred vent on low side and 2 louvred vents on high side.  ACU operates excessively. Look at intake, insulation, new ACU, ridge vent but feel attic air not moving out fast enough is the problem. This could be restricted intake or vent.

Installed approx R30 to R50 additional blown fibreglass insulation 4 yrs ago. Not much benefit in hot summer with AC on all day every day in hot summer rising above room temp.
(12~18" in addition to existing R30?)
noticed previous renovators blocked off soffits over garage , so I tore out alum. slit soffits and plywood and put in mosquito netting for soffit stapled in place over frame inserts.
Upgraded to New 5 ton ACU installed 2 years has improved home cooling but still can run excessive times, often all day but acceptable temp (25'C)
roof is getting old on solar side and getting it replaced soon and there are some minor rain leaks with ceiling very slight damage in 2 spots.

What I want to do is reduce the ceiling air temp from roof heat penetration so AC has less work to do.
Roofer is planning to use large square tall vents like Japanese pagoda but not curved. Looks OK, but HOW much better are they? if any.  Often the turbine is not moving in no wind days.
Should I invest in motor-driven turbine? or what do you suggest?
louvered vents

ridge vent

turbine

With 600 sqft of sun exposure I estimate 60kW of solar heat with R50 but it still seems like a thermal air flow problem.

I would suggest a solar powered vent that way when it is sunny or more heat load the solar powered vent(s) can do a better job at removing the excess heat.
the first house I added a fan I used a standard 120v  thermally activated fan it would kick in mid morning and cut out in the late evening it made a massive difference in that homes comfort but did cost a few dollars for the power.
the next house I used solar. The great thing about solar is I have the highest airflow in the early afternoon when it really needs it and it was still cooling until the evening.  I live right at the 45 parallel so your results may be different than mine But the solar fan was great really reduced the heat load in each house and became the first thing I have done to my houses Before the first summer. I have not lived in any of my last 3 homes long enough for the fan to fail or the solar cells but as with most motors greasing or oiling the bearings extends the life and the solar cells were rated at 20 years.
I have had really good luck with solar but Oregon rarely gets 100+Lots of hazy cloudy days so maybe my solar cells are lasting longer because of that reason. I do have to spray them off with water as the horses kick up dust and that slows the fan down. But that is the extent of my maintenance at my current home after 5-6 years.


Filling in low area to create platform with concrete / leveling I have some steps going off the back door of a house (from the 50's) that I'm working on and am attempting to help prepare for market / sale (USA).
The steps go down to an easement which runs perpendicular to the steps.
The problem is, the steps go down (not all the way to ground level) and then there is another step back up. So, essentially, the lowest step has two higher steps on either side of it.
(Side View)
                                          | Door to house
                                          |
                                        |
                              __________|
                             |
_______              ________|
       |  Low Area  |
       |_(8in deep)_|

On the back side of the low area, we have more concrete that is level with the 2 surrounding steps, on the front side, there is nothing currently - it's just open.
I need to fill this low area so there is a single platform.
The concrete that is there is likely also from the 50's - Somewhat cracked, and certainly imperfect.
I'm not concerned about perfection as this is a formality, but I would like to fill in the low area and then smooth the top and I have a short timeframe to do it in.
I'm looking for suggested methods. Here is my rough-draft plan:

Take 2x4s and cap the "open" end of the low area by using concrete screws and screw into the areas surrounding the low areas. This will act as a barrier for new concrete.
Get Quikrete high pressure concrete, mix and pour into low area. (4 CuFt already purchased)
Shortly thereafter (24 hours?) use self leveling concrete to smooth out the entire platform so it looks decent.

Is this a viable plan? I've never poured concrete before, but am handy and can pick things up - I just want to make sure I get the right things and do the right process.

A picture of the site would be helpful for some of the forming questions.
First, I would recommend using one full piece of forming lumber instead of stacked 2x4.
Second, if you are handy,  it should be pretty simple to screed your concrete across the two steps, trowel and broom finish it, and skip the self leveling layer.


Bathroom vanity instalation I am installing a new vanity and the sink will be relocated about 12” off set from the exit pipe coming out of the wall. Is this a problem? And should the P-trap be located closer to the sink or nearer the exit pipe?

As long as the drain is still in the cabinet for aesthetic purposes, and the pipe can still allow the water to flow downhill to the drain in the wall, you can do what you need.

The p-trap is always under the tailpipe of the sink.


is a permit required for changing old outlets Do I need a permit to change old outlets out that are cracked or not working and replace them with new ones
Thanks

You do not need a permit to replace fixtures or devices (outlets) with new ones.


Why are there sewer odors coming from my shower drain? I have random sewer odors coming from my tub and shower drains. They are separate in my bathroom. I have had plumbers come and clean the drain, but that is not fixing the problem.

You have sewer gas. Water in your plumbing traps is supposed to prevent that. There's some problem that is resulting in not having a water seal in your traps for these items (they may share one trap if it happens to both at the same time.)

If you pour water down the affected fixture (slowly) does the odor stop shortly thereafter? Or, if you carefully do this after each use, does the problem not occur (since it can be hard to tell when an odor stops coming in, if it's lingering around the bathroom.)

If so, you may have a venting problem, with the traps being sucked dry when lots of water goes down and creates a siphon (what venting is supposed to prevent.)

How old is the house and/or the bathroom? Another common possibility for an older house is that an old drum trap has failed, and is not functioning as a trap at all anymore. "Pouring water slowly down the drain" would have no effect in this case.

It's surprising that plumbers would not have mentioned or investigated these possible causes, unless they were only asked to clean the drains, rather than to identify and solve the smell problem.


Is this a clog, or poor plumbing? Our basement washroom shower started overflowing. It happens when we use the sink for longer than 30 seconds and when we use the shower. It will over flow, then slowly drain. We have tried snaking from the sink and the shower drain but the snake pops up clean in the opposite drain(from sink to shower drain and vise versa) It never used to do this in the years past. Is there anyway to fix this problem?

Sounds like your sewer line is clogged.  Call a plumber for this one, they have the long snake and the power to eat through things like tree roots.


Can I get 240v out of a 120v generator? How do you wire the neutrals and is it safe when running a 240v home appliance (a window air conditioner in my case) from a 120v generator by wiring a 240v breaker that pulls from two of its 120v outlets and outputs to a 240v plug?

What you describe won't work, and it's not safe for you (or anyone else) to do what you describe.

If you have a single phase 120 volt generator and you need to supply power to a 240 volt split phase load, the safest way is to use a transformer with a 120 volt primary connected to the generator and a 120-0-120 volt secondary connected to the appliance.


Dowel bracket fixture I'm not sure if this exists or not.

A flat square piece of plastic or metal which has two or more permanently affixed dowel-type protuberances that allow various boards to be joined simultaneously.
If it exists, would love to know the name so I can shop for them.

I'm not sure if this exists or not.

Probably not.
However, you have an X Y Problem

I'm trying to build a piece of furniture that I can take apart quickly/easily and set up again in another apartment.

Commonly used solutions include
Furniture bolts

Mitre bolts

Knock-down fittings
AKA furniture blocks

Cam lock bolts

Woodworking Joints
See https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/3305/creating-a-speaker-stand-using-only-joins/3306#3306


What should I do about walls that are shiny and dull at same time? Can anyone give me some reliable, good advise on fixing my bedroom walls. There were a lot of flaws when we bought house. Previously was painted over paper backing, mudding without sanding, and  gouges in walls. So we washed walls down first then sanded rough areas and dusted off. Then we applied drywall mud to correct areas, getting a much smoother texture. We then damp mopped it and made sure clean and dry. We then primed it and painted 2 coats of paint. After finished we could see large areas where it looked like paint soaked in and had different look, so we mudded over it again in those areas and went through process again. While priming I had a bubble, even though we have let everything dry thoroughly. So I put slit in bubble, because it would push down. And when doing this everything was moving, so I figured I would pull out that spot and patch. When pulling the small section, the whole wall peeled off like vinyl wallpaper. Except some areas that looked as though it was glued on.

So we had to take it all off, and some went past drywall into paper. So again, we mudded walls. It seems that when we sand, we keep getting smooth shiny areas, and then rougher dull areas. So the texture is not consistent. Before I prime and paint again and go through this again, I want to make sure I'm not missing something. Can someone give me some advice on what to do? Since we have been working on these 2 walls since January, and it is now July.

A picture would help but...what you are describing sounds like flashing to me.  This is when the sheen of the paint is not consistent (it has nothing to do with the physical even-ness of the surface).  Flashing occurs when the paint absorbs into the surface unevenly, thus it is common when dealing with patching.

Step 1:  If the walls are really rough all the way around skim coat everything to get an even base to start with.

If the walls are only bad in spots simply mud/spackle and sand the spots

Step 2:  Prime anything that is not paint.  Use a good sealer primer, I would suggest doing all the walls judging by what you have described.  Let the primer cure (this is not the same as drying).  Cure time should be mentioned on the product label.  I would recommend you use an oil base primer.  Yes its smelly and tough to work with but it does a much better job of covering stains and drying evenly, it also penetrates better due to its longer dry time.  Sand lightly with a medium grit sanding sponge once the primer is cured.

Step 3:  Paint.  Use two coats of paint.  Cut the edges all the way around first, then come back and roll the large sections of the wall where your cut work has already dried.  The better the paint the better the result.  Good paint is expensive but totally worth it.  It is easier to work with, splatters less, and looks better when you are done.

Personal opinions that you can choose to ignore if you wish

Avoid anything that claims to be a primer/paint in one...they are all garbage.

Good paint and good brushes/rollers are worth the cost, especially since you can clean and reuse them. (I will note that using cheap stuff with oil based primer is perfectly normal and I do it myself to avoid the hassle.)


Aerogel insulation viable? I have read that new aerogel-type insulation offers potentially better efficiency than ordinary fiberglass, albeit with greater cost. Is this true at a practical level? Should I look at replacing some of my old fiberglass insulation with aerogel, or is it just hype?

It's not hype, but it's not a commercial viability for home insulation at this time.

I was just looking at the prices for aerogel and it's really expensive. It seems that the current use in house insulation is as a wrap. And from the prices I saw, it was $26 per square foot for 2mm thick material. Premium fiberglass is about $0.50 per square foot (2"x6" walls) and premium house wrap is about $0.14 per square foot.

Some interesting related reads:
Insulated living room
Some retail products
Price drop?


amps per leg on 220V? IF the nomenclature plate on a piece of 220VAC equipment says 10.0 Amps, does that mean that the load is 10 amps per leg, or 10 amps total, therefore 5 per leg?

If you put a current meter one leg, it reads 10A; if you put it on the other leg, it also reads 10A. But that does NOT mean there is "20A" in the circuit. The current in the two wires is not additive. Current flows from one point to another through the CIRCUIT, and the circuit consists of those two wires.


1" S-Type Screws OK for hanging 5/8" Drywall on short wall in basement? I recently had my basement framed/rocked/finished, and stupidly told the contractor to leave one small wall unfished.  That decision came back to bite me as I now want to finish that wall...  It's a short little wall at the bottom of my stairs thats 9' long, and just under 9' high and the contractor wants $500 to do the job.  That seems way high for the amount of work to be done but I understand his reasoning in that they would need to be back so many times from start to finish, etc.

So I'm going to tackle this short little wall myself.

I want to hang the few panels of 5/8" drywall on a concrete wall without framing it ahead of time (due to timing, amount of wasted space if I were to frame it out).  I have some leftover pieces of RC2 Sound Channel (typically used for sound proofing but I was told would work fine here..) that I'm planning on going directly into the concrete with. And then hanging 5/8" fire-rated drywall on it.

I'm using tapcon's to hold the RC2 to the concrete.  The RC2 will give a gap of 1/2" from the concrete wall. 1/2" from the RC2 plus 5/8" drywall equals 1 1/8" total distance.

I know the rule of thumb is 1/3 of screw into material, 2/3 into the backing support, but I can't go very deep due to the concrete being 1/2 away from the back of the panel.  So with 5/8" drywall will the 1" screws be sufficient to hold the panels?  Should I just add more screws to compensate?  Good idea? Bad idea?

Thanks

yeah, you should be alright with the 1 inch drywall screws. The optional way to fasten any drywall is to have screw head slightly dimple the drywall paper (not penetrate or damage the paper) so as to have a depression for the joint compound. It wouldn't be a bad idea as you noted to use extra screws. I believe the fastening method is 6 inches along the edges and 8-10 inches in the field. As an alternative suggestion you could install 3/4 inch plywood strips behind the soundproofing strips. The extra 3/4 inches would allow a  1 5/8 inch screw.


Replacing bathroom carpet with Vinyl I'm going to replace my bathroom carpet with a Vinyl floor, but want to make sure I get it level and waterproofed.

Assuming there's a level subfloor, can I use a regular Aquastop underlay?
Whats the best sealant to use around the edges against the wall?

The bathroom is only 2x2 max and fairly square in shape so seems like i could do this myself! This is my first floor job though so if I've failed to consider anything obvious please let me know and many thanks for any advice!

If it helps here are my choices so far:

Underlay http://www.diy.com/departments/diall-5mm-laminate-solid-wood-flooring-aquastop-underlay-5m/1570774_BQ.prd
Vinyl http://www.diy.com/departments/grey-slate-tile-effect-vinyl-flooring-4-m/1732464_BQ.prd

Get the installation white papers for the kind of vinyl flooring you're using and follow the instructions to the letter.  They should tell you exactly what kind of underlay to use on top of the subfloor if any.  For instance vinyl planking without a sticky side (not what you're getting by the look of it) needs no underlay, sealant or subfloor to function correctly as per the installation instructions.

As for sealing the wall surrounding the flooring, I assume that since you had carpet there this is a dry area of the bathroom and not required to be in direct contact with water.  You don't need sealant around the wall as the drywall in that area should be greenback/mold resistant anyway.  You can just trim, paint and caulk.

Additionally, you're going to need expansion gaps (~3/16") on all sides where the flooring meets a hard vertical plane in order to prevent buckling due to material expansion.  This gap will usually be covered by trim or quarter round which you will caulk the portion that meets the flooring to prevent the spread of any water you may get on the ground from getting out of the shower and whatnot.


Can I use steel framing in a shower enclosure Turned onto steel framing by a coworker. Part of a wall will extend into a shower enclosure. I will be putting green board over it and then tiling. The coworker seemed to recall using steel in a shower enclosure was problematic due to temperature changes. Anyone have any experience using this and comment further one way or another in regards to using steel framing for a shower? In addition, does anybody see a problem with sheetrocking a ceiling over existing sheetrock? If I pull the existing sheetrock down I have this powdery insulation that is about 2 feet deep that will create a massive mess as it comes raining down.

I've used steel studs in bathrooms many times. The temperature never seemed to be a determining factor.
I personally would hesitate using green board and would use one of the many cement board, wonder boards, that are out there. Structurally, they are much better than the green board and will last longer. Also think about using a water proof coating like Red Guard in the shower areas. There's no problem with adding sheet rock over sheet rock. Just go wall to wall for appearances. You'll need longer screws and will need junction box extenders for any fixtures.


how do I replace a single union pressure reducing valve? I see a 115 PSI water pressure at my home. Looks like my PRV is hosed. I am a complete newbie in plumbing, please take a look at the pictures and help me understand what I need to replace the PRV.

So I believe its a single union PRV. I bought a Zurn nr3xl to replace it. Upper joint seems to be soldered?? Bottom joint can probably be removed turning the union ring. Am I correct? Anything else that I need to know? Please also share what tools I need.

A slight hack job, but you should not need a torch, unless the new valve does not have the same thread options.

Wrench big enough to grab the body of the valve itself. To begin with, hold it still.

Wrench to remove the union nut (first) while roundly cursing the installer and inspector who said "Yup, the ground is bonded across this thing" while not providing enough grounding cable to make replacing it easy. You don't want to remove that bonding wire from the pipe, is the thing....

Then a wrench the size of the wrench flats on the fitting above (to hold it still) while using the wrench on the valve itself to unscrew that (there appear to be internal pipe threads as well as the external union threads.)

Reverse the process to install the new valve.


Refrigerator Ice Maker Frozen Fan Background:

I have a Frigidaire fridge, model #LFHB2741PFAA with a double door refrigerator on top and a pull out freezer of the bottom. The ice maker is located in the upper left corner of the fridge. Two months ago the ice maker stopped working, so I had an appliance repairman come take a look. He showed me that the fan had been frozen stuck. His solution was to take everything out of the fridge for a few days and unplug the fridge to let everything thaw out. The ice maker just stopped working again and I noticed the fan in the ice maker is frozen stuck again, and the ice maker tray is filled to the top with ice that is rapidly melting.

Question:

Can I just use a hair dryer to thaw out the fan? I remember the appliance repair man saying not to do it, but I can't remember why. The only thing I can think of is the heat damaging the components in the ice maker. If that is the case will low pressure compressed air (at room temperature) be okay?

As an alternative solution, can I remove the ice maker tray so the ice maker warms up to the temperature of the fridge, thus melting the ice?

Is there another solution, that doesn't involve unplugging the fridge?

Why does this happen? Could it be from leaving the fridge door open for too long and having condensation build up on the fan? Could it be caused by low water pressure to the fridge?

Thanks,

Joel

The main danger is hair dryers is that you damage the freezer parts. If you elect to use one, use it on low or no heat. Remember, most modern freezers use plastic for everything they can, and hair dryers are designed to dry hair fast, not defrost freezers.

Compressed air will probably not do it. Compressed air will expand when you use it, which makes it cool down.

My experience is that freezers will freeze up with either insufficient drainage or insufficient air flow. Used to have a Kenmore that would defrost into a pan, but there was nothing to keep the drain in the pan defrosted. After a few service calls, a repairman installed what looked like a specific device to transfer the defrost heat from the coils down into the pan and that problem stopped. Another time there was insufficient air flow into the refrigerator from the freezer, and the freezer became too cold as a result.


Newly installed Metal Electrical Panel door will not open easily? I just had a new metal entry box installed on the exterior of my home. I am unable to open the metal door, even with a tool. Not sure what the problem is however if the door was installed and not plumb with the box frame, could this be the problem? My neighbor came down and he had difficulty opening it and said it should not be that hard to open.Thanks.

That is a "NEMA 3R" enclosure, meaning it is rated to be used outdoors. The door for those often have a "trick" to opening them because they are designed to keep rain out even when open, so there is a "drip lip" over the door. That sometimes requires that after you unlatch it, you must lift the door up from the bottom a little bit to get it off the catch, then let it drop down so that it will get clear of the lip and allow it to swing open.

If it's not that, then all he probably needs to do is shim the back of it. It appears as though he removed something else to put this in, and the wall behind it may be uneven. having to shim the back of the new panel is very common, the sheet metal is thin so any unevenness in the surface warps the box into a parallelogram. It can often just be done by putting washers on one or more of the mounting screws, BETWEEN the wall and the back of the panel.


Garage flat roof conversion to pitched roof A contractor told us it would be cheaper if we left the existing flat roof in place and then added the new pitched roof. Is this an advisable thing to do or is it a shortcut that we should steer clear of?

Depending on how your existing roof is structured it should be a very straight forward task.

Just as a mention, even flat roofs have a slight pitch.

Even pitched (gable) roofs start with the same structure at the ceiling level. Either one supporting wall is built slightly higher than the other, or by adding a little framing to create the slight pitch needed to get the rain off one side or the other.


C Wire to a Dual Zone House Trying to connect a Nest thermostat in a dual zone house and I need to add a C common wire. There is an extra wire at the thermostat but there is no voltage on it. My current thermostat does not use a C wire.

If you have a spare wire at the stat then half the battle is done. Now you need to confirm it's viability at the source be it furnace, boiler, air handler etc.

If the connected equipment is a furnace or air handler and is under 10 or so years old it will almost certainly have a common terminal on a board. Not all boilers have a convenient C terminal.

You simply power down the system and connect the wire in question to the C terminal. Make sure the wire at the stat end isn't contacting anything. Close the access door, power on and at the stat test from R to the wire. If you are reading around 23 - 28 or so you're good to go. Power down make the necessary connections to the Nest and power up.

If your situation differs from the scenario outlined above, edit the question with appropriate details. Good luck!


What's this white crust in my kitchen pipe threads? I had to change the kitchen sink P-trap (J pipe and tailpiece) and there's hard white crusty stuff in the threads that's making it difficult to screw on the new ring nut connectors. The old parts had been on the sink drain and wall elbow for 25 years or more and had corroded. The rings broke when I turned them. I'm not sure if the white stuff is corrosion, minerals or what. I removed some of it from the threads [picture of threads with white crust]carefully using the tip of a knife and a wire bristle brush, but wonder if something else would work better.

Without the photo it could be several things , the first that comes to mind is not normally used on those fittings normally pipe thread sealant or pipe dope , those threads normally have a compression ring of rubber or plastic and should never see any water that’s why I put it first. Pipe dope turns hard and crusty after a couple of decades and is be easy to break those nuts on the tail piece and trap if dope was used.
Other things that come to mind when there are leaks quite common in the trap is calcium or lime both are white and crusty wince there is buildup but for that water to get out to the threads the seal would have had to fail.
So I believe it was pipe dope in a location that it should not have been used. A third possibility is plumbers putty that is used to seal the drain flange to the basin but it should not have been used on threads.


Old light fixture box I live in an older house (California) and the overhead light fixture boxes seem small.  They unreceptive to the fixtures my wife has purchased from Ikea in that they have two holes for accepting screws and no amount of cajoling the Ikea fixture will cause its holes to line up.  I've picked up an adapter plate from a hardware store but none of its holes line up with the fixture's holes either.  Am I doing it wrong?

Usually you will have some sort of strap (as shown in the pictures below) which will go over the receptacle box and then the overhead light will attach to that.


Hanging up large whiteboard in rental property My roomates and I got a large whiteboard for studying. It measures 1800 x 900 mm and has a stainless steel border and backing. At a guess, it's easily 20 kg, and we've currently got a rather ad-hoc and precarious setup, as you can see.

We'd really appreciate any ideas on how to hang or support it at eye level.
Edit: I should’ve clarified, because this is a rental property, we can't drill into the walls!
Double Edit: We’ll have to check with our landlord before drilling, but drilling and then puttying might be an option.
Cheers!

Buy a small buffet or sofa table cheap -
Buy two metal flat rods or even a 6 feet length of 1 x wood  -

mount the flat rod or 1x to the sofa table as mounting rods for your whiteboard.
place the white board on top of the sofa table up against the mounting 1 x's mount the white board to the 1x's you are done.
place it against the wall and study till you drop... or until you have had enough caffeine to keep you going another week.. :-)


Electrical wiring stapled to subfloor/joists beneath baseboard My 1920s rowhouse has likely had a lot of not permitted, and not up to code, work done on it in the past. Last night I pulled off the baseboard in the dining room, which is one of the few rooms with multiple 3-prong electrical outlets. The baseboard was covering a sizable gap between where the floor (both the 3/4" hardwood and subfloor) and lathe and plaster walls meet. In spots I can see the wall studs and floor joists. This was not that surprising to me.

What surprised me was that the romex electrical cable was run in this gap and stapled to whatever was available (studs, joists, and subfloor) there was no conduit or anything else to protect the cable from nails/screws, although nailing into the area would be hard.

Is this to code in the US? Was it ever to code in the US? How ridiculously unsafe is it?

Can I continue with my plan to rip up the hardwood floor and replace it with an engineered floor, or do I need to address the wiring first?

Normaly the romex is pulled through a hole in the bottom plate for the wall. As long as the hole is 1-1/4" back or the wire is 1-1/4" back it could be legal no conduit required. If less than 1-1/4" a nail plate would need be used to prevent a screw or nail from being driven into the cable. If the hole is in front of the wall (wasn't sure) I would move it back into the wall ,the other choice would be to add a short piece of conduit 6" above the floor to protect the wire. Per NEC 334.15.B. 6" above floor EMT, schedule 80 PVC, rigid or Inc.


What are the rules for unplugging a refrigerator? I'd like to unplug my fridge for a few hours each evening to have silence in my small studio while I fall asleep. It is on a timer, so it happens at random times through the cooling cycle. I was warned that this could be a problem if I unplug the compressor while it is running, and perhaps I'm supposed to turn the
temperature down/off for 30 minutes first.

Can anyone confirm this? Is there anything else I need to be aware of when unplugging the fridge?

When you short cycle the compressor like that it's the worst thing an owner can do to shorten the lifespan of it's compressor.

The refrigerator compressor uses oil to lubricate the pump. This pump runs very hot. The oil becomes dirtier and dirtier as it travels through the refrigerator tubes and clogs the refrigerant paths making it impossible for the refrigerator to cool. When you short cycle the fridge, it immediately kills the pressure behind the oil from the compressor, and the oil in the pathways must trickle back to the reservoir. with only gravity assistance, so the thicker the oil is the less likely it is to make it back without clogging.

However if you must turn it off in order to sleep, turn the cold temp to off prior to turning the fridge off. All fridge manuals recommend that you do this before unplugging the fridge when moving the fridge. This will help keep the oil flowing back to the reservoir.


Are cracks in a newly poured concrete basement floor a problem? I'm having a new home built and found a large crack in the newly poured concrete basement floor and wanted to see if it's something I should be concerned about.  The floor was poured sometime in the past two weeks; I need to check with the builder exactly when.

I'd really appreciate your opinion: please see the pictures below. Should I have the builder repair or replace the floor?  (The basement will be finished, so cosmetic issues are not a concern, I just want to know the floor will function properly.)

Going to try to get an engineer to look at it...still interested in more comments, thanks!

FYI: There is no rebar in the floor; poured concrete on vapor barrier and gravel.

Click any photograph for full size

Crack is under window well area in picture above.

Footer corner sitting in mud and water in picture above. It's hard to see in this uploaded version, but standing water is in the corner; if the footer is settling here, that would likely explain the crack, right?

Footers with some gravel (more was added before the floor).

Well this is a pretty big deal because we don't know the cause.

First let's go over common reasons we get cracks on new floors.

Soil wasn't properly compacted.  Soil should be compacted with a rock bed on top.
Bad mixing at site.  Especially in the summer contractors pump too much water in the mix.  The water makes the concrete weaker and it does crack easier.
Bad mix at plant.  Just a poor mix of materials coming in.
Bad environment for mix.  Too hot, rain, too long to site, whatever.
They didn't cut the concrete or didn't cut it quick enough.  The concrete needs to be cut (I suggest every 10x10 foot area) to allow for expansion.  It really needs to be cut the first day.
Didn't use rebar.  This is a common cost cutter and I have seen rebar pulled before pour.
House was built on unstable land.  Could have been a landfill, could have springs underneath, whatever.
Soil type wasn't conducive to their install method.  Really too many things to list here but basically different types of soil expand and contract more due to moisture levels.  Also it is possible that it was pushed even further by either a lot of rain or a drought.

Those are what I got off the top of my head.  I am positive there are more reasons for cracks in your basement.  If I were to totally guess I would say they didn't prep right in that corner - It seems like the corner is dropping on you already and maybe it wasn't floor wasn't compacted correctly.  The crack starts on the outward "L corner" which is normal but heads right across the corner - most insignificant cracks in concrete tend to be straight.  This crack has its shape for a reason.

What do I think you should do?  First ask questions.  See if the contractor knows why it cracked.  "It happens" is not an answer.  My reply would be "Me not paying you happens too."  If the contractor/builder doesn't want to take blame (it is their fault) then you need to get a psi reading on the floor, measure its thickness, and also prove that the floor is rebarred/reinforced correctly.  You will almost certainly need an engineer.  Even if the problem is obvious your builder is less likely to move until it is proved from a creditable source.

You cannot sit on this.  If the mix was bad - well did they use the same mix for the walls too?  If it was bad prep, what happens when you have issues in a couple years?  I have seen basements that have had to be repoured and it is a mess.  Also will set you back 10K in the states.

Again, no matter what anyone tells you - cracks in a fresh floor are not acceptable.  This is a sizable crack.  Even if an engineer checks everything out I would demand a longer warranty on the basement floor and to have them seal it.  Either that or they start over.

Note (based on additional pictures: I am not there so it is a bit of conjecture.  But it is not a good sign when an area is relatively dry and you have a corner that is not only wet but it seems dropped too.  It is a guessing game for me too at this point, not seeing what you have going on.  My top 2 guess (and they are guesses) -

#1 - They dug and compacted.  While digging they left over dug out that corner and then filled it.  Then they never compacted it correctly.  After it rained a few times, the corner started dropping.  Also when I have a slab compacted the rock is part of the equation.  I don't see any rock in your pictures.

#2 - You have some sort of natural underground current or spring.  I have a stream that is 3 feet under, about a foot from my house - and I can't imagine if it where a foot over and 2 more feet down.

(Do you have any pictures right before they poured?)


Connecting 6 gauge aluminum wiring to 10 gauge copper with AlumiConn I am replacing a 20 year old wall oven. When I opened the electrical box I noticed very large gauge aluminum wiring (6 gauge?). I purchased a box of AlumiConns (3 port style) to connect the aluminum wiring to the 10 gauge copper wire in my new oven.

Can I simply untwist a couple aluminum strands from the larger bundle? I plan to insert two aluminum strands into two ports on my AlumiConn and the 3rd port will go to the oven's copper wire.

Note in the 2nd photo below that there was no anti-corrosive paste inside the wire nuts. I was a little surprised how well this 20 year old connection stood the test of time, the wire nuts showed no sign of getting hot and the old copper and aluminum wire looked fresh. I'd still like to update the connection to current code and not have to worry about a future electrical fire decades from now.

Use a mechanical lug connector ("Polaris" or equivalent)

AlumiConns are only rated for a maximum of 10AWG wire.  For fatter work, you'll want their bigger brothers, mechanical lug connectors (sometimes called "Polaris connectors" after a common brand name) -- the smallest size of them is generally rated for wires anywhere from 14AWG to 4AWG, and as a rule, they are dual-rated for aluminum and copper wire.

You will also likely need a box extension ring or two, as mechanical lug connectors are quite chunky compared to wirenuts or Alumiconns, and you definitely need an appropriate connector to attach the flexible conduit to the box, as right now, it's violating several Code sections by flapping around in the breeze like that.  If the extension rings aren't enough, then you'll have to replace the box with a small (6" by 6" by 4" should be ample) NEMA 1 (indoor) pull box, likely with a flush cover. These are what is used instead of a junction box when splicing large wires, and are available through electrical supply houses.


What type of replacement door threshold do I need for a garage service door? I'm interested in replacing my old and cracked garage door threshold, but the method it uses to attach is to slide under the already existing plate.

I can't seem to find any existing thresholds that have this property. What should I buy/do to replace the threshold?

The one you have there was built into the door frame as a unit. You wouldn't find that exact part unless you contacted the manufacturer.

I would simply see what your local hardware or home improvement store has on hand. The crest of the curve needs to mate well with your door's bottom seal or sweep. Other than that it's not terribly critical. You'll have to consult your inner engineer and figure it out.

Fit the new threshold to the floor and door plate as necessary. Clear silicone caulk is helpful at the ends and underneath.


Improving insulation on windows and preventing heat loss Here are the images of my window (currently it's 18F/-8C outside, 74F/23C inside):

Now, this condensation / ice forming gets even worse - on some days whole bottom of the window from the first picture is completely covered with ice / condensation.

My assumption is that heat loss happens here because edges of windows are not properly insulated. Is that assumption a sound one? This doesn't happen on any other windows in the room - condensation / ice always forms on these two windows.

If I am correctly identifying the problem, few questions:

What should I use to improve insulation and prevent heat loss here? Generic caulk?
If I am to use caulk, should I apply it inside or outside? Both?

Ice forms in that location because 1) heat is lost where the two panes of glass are connected by the metal frame, and 2) cold air sinks to the bottom of the window opening. I don't see any red flags that indicate air leakage or other serious issues. The fact that the entire glass pane frosts up at times reinforces that position. You have simple heat conduction happening, with little or no air movement from exterior to interior.

I've lived in Minnesota for 25 years, and what you see there is nearly unavoidable in extremely cold weather. It's a result of heat loss through the window and excess moisture inside, and it's the reason window film was invented. I realize that the idea of applying film annually isn't terribly appealing, but it's probably your best bet here, short of replacing the windows. Only low-e glass panels and ultra-modern sealing and insulation, coupled with very good indoor humidity management, will completely prevent ice formation.


How do I rust-proof a metal pole? I have a steel pole holding up part of my house. It is bolted to concrete footings. I am about to build a deck around but would like to rust-proof the bottom before I do this to prevent any future issues.

Given that the bottom 30cm will not be visible, what is the best way I can ensure it will not rust? I was thinking some Kill-Rust primer and possibly some bitumen paint to keep the water away.

DA01 is correct about direct contact with concrete to a point. If the steel and concrete are above ground grade and the concrete is beveled enough for any water to run off or not collect around the pipe, then serious rusting will take a very long time. As far as rust proofing the steel pipe, clean the metal very well. Sand off any paint or other materials. Prime the steel with a zinc chromate primer. This is available in spray cans from Krylon.  After 24 hours, coat the surfaces with truck bed liner.  You can buy truck bed liner in either brush on or spray on cans. Use a couple of thin coats and overlap the bed liner down and over the concrete. This will give you a great water/moisture proof covering.  Good luck


How can I cover up wood floor stain spill damage? Due to some stupidity and a large spill, I've got some nasty dark splotches on my wood.

I’ve sanded and cleaned I’ve cleaned the area with white vinegar (which might have been a mistake) and barkeepers friend.

Here’s what it looks like right now:
•

This seems to be more than surface damage and unfortunately it appears the stain has worked its way into the wood itself. Based on what I’ve read there doesn't seem to be a way to fix this without replacing the affected areas of the floor. I want to save this repair for further down the line (maybe re-do the floors at a later time)

In the meantime, barring placing a mat or rug over the damaged area, how do I cosmetically cover up this damage? I know (or at least I think) I can't fix this completely, due to the likely extent of the damage, but I’d like to make this area look passible.

One of my initial thoughts was to try a wood stain. Is it advisable to just try to stain the affected area and how do you effectively color match stains? I’d have some more leeway if I had dark colored wood but since this damage has seeped into my light colored wood – would a stain even be able to cover up and obscure the damage?

Are there any other materials and things I can try out and use to cover up this damage? Any other advice/tips?

When using Oxalic acid, which usually comes in a dry crystal form, mix it with hot water, as hot as you dare, reading the labels for mix ratios. I mix it a bit stronger than they say, but that is me, I do stuff like that. You are new to this I don't recommend you do that, stick to the directions.
While the mix is hot, pour it on the floor the same way the stuff that stained the floor did. Let it set as long as it takes to get into the same places as the fluid did that did the damage. According to the end grain discoloration, it was wet for a long while.

Keep it wet, keep the mix hot if you can, the hotter it is, the easier it works, the faster it will soak into the wood end grain. Do not let it dry out over the time while you are working with it, keep it wet.

If you went really overboard with the acid, I don't think you would ruin the flooring. Yes it will swell a bit, but it will dry back out. Any small gaps created by the flooring swell, will far less noticeable than the gray streaks the stain has.
The trick about keeping it wet is, when oxalic acid dries it forms at the least a white haze. Not dry=no haze. If it does haze add more acid, a simple fix. The important thing is the cleanup. Have a clean 5 gal. bucket of water, a scrub brush and plenty of towels. Use the brush with plenty of water, drying it up with the towels. Do this 3 or more times, 5 is not out of the question, cleaning MUST be thorough. I had done this on wood walls with a hose and brush with constant running water and still had haze here and there.

Let the floor dry out for a couple of weeks before trying to repair the finish.


How do I get vinyl tile off of plywood flooring? I am in the process of removing vinyl tiles off of a cheap plywood looking floor in my bathroom. I am not sure how long they have been there but it's not just the adhesive I am having a problem with. The tiles don't want to come up at all. I am not real worried about getting up all the adhesive. I'm putting vinyl flooring down. I just cannot get the tile up. I'm trying to be cheap but want to do it so the other flooring will lay nicely. I have tried using hot vinegar and water but it's not working very well. It's just coming up in tiny pieces after hours of spraying it and trying to scrape it off with a putty knife. I'm not sure what to do.

Vinegar is not going to be effective at remove the tiles, but what is effective is a bigger tool.  Since you are looking to save money, you might be able to get away with using a cheap scraper.  It will look like a putty knife but a lot stiffer and have a wider blade.  Then using a hammer (wear gloves and glasses), just start tapping the scrapper under the tiles to get larger pieces up.

Once these tiles are up, you will need to get your sub floor (the cheap plywood) to be smooth.  If you got nail pops, rough areas from glue or gashes these will need to be leveled before you put the vinyl down.  Vinyl is not very forgiving in hiding defects.


Exterior rated/grade adhesive to add final touches for my shade fabric applied to EMT rods? all.
I was wondering if anyone had a sound suggestion or experience with my particular query. My original thread was started here: Inexpensive ideas to extend the height of my fence cinderblock wall outdoors
In that thread I started, user "ojait" provided a great answer and I took his advice and attached the fabric with pan-head screws. I installed the fabric myself and, so far, it has survived several mild wind storms with two of them having occasional gusts of up to 40-50 mph and it looks just as good as the day I put it up. So, naturally, I'm quite happy so far.
My question for this thread is involves a last refining step. The pan screws are holding up well but the fabric wants to curl away from the EMT rod. I thought applying some type of adhesive would. In fact, in one inconspicuous area I experimented and used "Fuse it" Liquid Nails but it's a dark gray in color and given that the fabric has a woven like rattan quality to it, the product sort of oozed through the strands of fabric and now it looks kinda nasty. Not to mention, I had to use a bunch of masking tape to hold it in place while it dried. Because otherwise I'd have to sit there and hold it down for hours. Which, of course, isn't feasible.
Could I use silicone sticks with a silicone heat gun and will this hold up over time? My concern is that it can get up to 121 degrees in the summer. I know that's still not hot enough to actually melt the glue but there is nothing on the packaging that says you canNOT use it for outdoor use. However I have doubts about using it. This is ideal because I can hold it down in place and in about twenty seconds it has cooled down enough that it won't budge. And secondly, the glue sticks are a clear like color so you really can't see it anywhere, which is another added plus.
If this isn't a good idea, what can I use that will dry and harden in a short time and that can allow me to work quickly? Keep in mind, this is just a cosmetic alteration. The pan-head screws are the ones doing the work of holding the fabric in place. This is just to keep the ends down nice and flat so that it looks more polished looking.
Including a couple photos to show what my project is looking like so far.

Consider using a double-sided clear mounting tape. 3M makes one with a clear but rubbery and flexible carrier that makes an extremely strong bond. Since it sticks immediately, you don't have to spend time holding it. Remember that tapes of this type have a bond strength that improves greatly over the first 24 hours, so if you do a small area as a test, give it a day before you test it for strength. Brands other than 3M are available, but I know the 3M is suitable for outdoor use and resistant to water and UV, and I've seen it in a big-box home improvement store as a small roll on a blister card. It looks red because of red release paper, but the tape itself is clear.


Is there any reason I shouldn't make my own stair treads? Our main stair case is carpeted. Underneath is (at best) construction-grade plywood.

We'd like to replace this with wood overlays. Probably maple (to match other floors).

I've found prices for overlay treads between $33 and $100. $30 sounds reasonable. $100 definitely not.

Yet, even at $30, we're looking at at about $350 + shipping in treads.

I did some quick math and figured that with two really nice sheet of 3/4" maple ply, I could easily rip down more than enough treads and then finish the front with a maple half-round (glue and pin). I figured that'd be about $100 in materials total.

Is there any strong reason to not go that route?

Obviously, with the pre cut option, I'd save a little bit in labor. Though I'd still be cutting those to 'fit' the existing stairs properly so maybe it's not that big of a difference.

Any other strong arguments as to not go the DIY plywood + half-round route vs. premade?

Wear.

The overlays appear to be solid hardwood.  The plywood is a thin veneer over other non hardwood plys. As the steps wear, you run the risk of wearing through the veneer. Even if you don't, if you need to refinish, you again risk sanding through that thin top layer.

In my old house, the bottom stair had a worn dip in the middle (reputedly eroded by my younger son's butt that perched there in his many time-outs). A veneer would have been long gone.


basement bathroom flooring options in old 1929 house I have an old house built in 1929 in Minneapolis, Mn.  I need to replace water damaged rotted basement bathroom floor(toilet and shower leak another story). Current floor is 2" by 4" sleepers set on concrete with either treated plywood or cement board(not sure haven't pulled up yet) and vinyl on top. I want to replace the floor but I need to do it on the cheap because I'm 40k undervalued in this house.  I'm also assuming the original cement floor under all this is in rough shape.

What are my options?

Your options are pretty much infinite. I'd favor gypcrete to raise, level and provide a nice base, then tile. Nothing to rot when the next leak happens (it's a bathroom, there will always be a next leak.) I'd also put radiant floor heat tubing in place in the gypcrete pour, and if there's enough room for sleepers (now), XPS [extruded polystyrene] insulation on top of the concrete floor, under the gypcrete with radiant floor tubing in it.

If the present floor is rotted, it's probably not cementboard - that doesn't rot.


How can I connect two indoor ductless A/C's to one compressor? I have one Hitachi i-clean split AC 2ton unit installed in my home. I want to connect another indoor ductless unit to the already installed outdoor compressor. I only need to use one indoor unit at a time.  How do I connect two indoor units to a single compressor - is this possible?

If his house is relatively new and well insulated and not too enormous (1500 SF or less) and not in a very hot area, two tons is probably enough for the whole house most of the time. I've got 2.25 tons downstairs and 2.5 tons upstairs in a 3200 SF house and it's always been more than enough so 2 tons for 1500 SF or less is probably fine even if you run both evaporators at once.

However, I would want to be sure that you could switch off one of the two evaporators because that seems essential to his planned usage. It could be for energy savings or just because he already knows 2 tons isn't enough for the entire house, he doesn't say.

The actual question of connecting two evaporators to one condensor is quite easy, you just need to add a T to the freon supply and a T to the freon return. But how will the compressor be told to turn on? You don't want the room with the evaporator you are not using to run the compressor.

And how do you stop freon from going to the evaporator you are not using?