Power outage in one room My roommates share a room and they have been experiencing frequent outtages that last anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour. There are 4 outlets in the room, and when this happens only 3 go out. No breaker is switched either. They have 3 surge protectors, 2 in outlets that go out and 1 in the one that doesnt.

In one, they have an xbox, a ps4, 2 monitors, a computer, and desktop speakers plugged in. In another they have a TV, an xbox one X, a headset, and a dyson bladeless fan. In the third, which is in the outlet that doesnt turn off when this happens, they had phone chargers.

I assumed it was caused by too much power draw, but even when most of it was off it still happened. We managed to notice that when you wiggled the outlet that stayed on, the power would come on an off throughout the room as you wiggled. I took the outlet out and noticed that one of the hot wires was slightly exposed, so Im assuming it wiggled and touched the metal in the outlet. It also was slightly charred and looked as if it was heating up too much ("burnt" end and discolored insulation).

I took out that wire and capped it with a wire nut and electrical tap then put the outlet back in. Now the power still hasnt come back on, 2 hours later, but the outlet itself works (not the plug that isnt connected).

Im very confused by whats going on, and need some direction of what to do now. I want to avoid calling an electrician if possible (money is tight) but I also would prefer that over a fire if its an issue.

What you just described are backstab connections and that kind of failure is typical with them.

The exposed wire you saw isn't good, but it may have just been a matter of the insulation being stripped too far back.  It's also possible they cut the insulation correctly then didn't jab it in far enough.  Regardless, backstabs are a low quality way to make that connection, and will tend to do this even if done by the book.

Your problems will be cured by switching to either side-screw connections already on the socket, or the "screw-to-clamp" type connections used by Leviton.  Those Prograde outlets cost $3.  Any competent handyman who owns a torque screwdriver can handle this task, so hit Taskrabbit or Craigslist.

Also have the handyman check the wire and compare it to the breaker. The breaker rating must match the wire capacity, sometimes fools  change the breaker to too large a value, risking a fire.  The fact that the wire was in backstabs means it is almost certainly 14 AWG, which means it should be a 15A breaker.

All that, however, does not take you "off the hook" for overloading the circuit.  I suggest getting a Kill-a-Watt power measurement device and find out what your devices draw. Most of the things on your list (together) don't worry me, but PCs can be a real wildcard. A gaming PC with a top video card can absolutely push that circuit over the edge.


Manifold all vent pipes in attic to have one pipe into roof I'm building a new house, 2 1/2 baths, laundry room & kitchen. What size vent pipe would be needed to manifold all vents into one?

The required vent size is half the building drain size or 2" if your building drain is 4".

Then where you penetrate the roof you need 3" for the last couple feet, if you are in an area prone to frost.

You can certainly connect all the vents together into one vent penetrating the roof. That is a common practice. Every building requires a minimum of one roof penetration and you can have more if you wish to save pipe. Although every roof penetration is a point of possible failure in the future.

Happy Saturday!


How to remove shiny black coating from a textured window? The previous owner of my 1920s bungalow drywalled over a bunch of the original windows (!) and I'm trying to uncover and restore them to let some more light into the cavelike parts of the house. There's an exterior window installed over one of the windows; it's a bubbly-textured glass with some sort of shiny black coating painted onto it. I've tried every chemical paint remover that I have - hot vinegar, acetone, oven cleaner - and the coating won't budge. The coating is on the bubbly textured side of the glass so I've had no success scraping or sanding it off. I'm pretty sure it's a coating since I can see unevenness and stroke texture in it from the inside when the sunlight shines through.

Anyone have any idea what this might be and what would take it off? I'd rather not rip the window out entirely if I don't have to.

Use a paint remover with methylene chloride. It will effectively soften and/or liquify common household paints.

Follow directions exactly when using it, especially safety stuff like good ventilation, proper gloves, eye protection, etc.


Unwire a light switch I have a light switch in a weird place in my house. I'd like to remove the light switch itself and just wire it permanently on and cover it with a flat faceplate. I'd ideally like to actually leave it there for future owners of the house. I have the blank faceplate

Here's the tools I have. I think I have everything I need. The question is, aside from shutting off the power I am lost at what do I do to turn the switch permanently on.

Tools for Reference:

Edit: behind the light switch images:

So there's 3 wires behind the switch.

Edit 2: I was wrong about where the wires connected:

EDIT
Completed JOB:

In order to wire this switch as "always on", all three wires should be removed from the switch and bundled together with a wire nut.

The three wires is a bit non-standard and might lead you to believe this is a 3-way switch or some other kind of odd arrangement, but someone has used the stab connector and the screw on the top of this standard switch to tie those two wires together.  If this switch only controls one light then one of the top wires is the power coming in, the other top wire is going on to another switch or outlet, and the bottom single wire is what provides power to your light.

If you wanted the switch to be "always off" the top two wires should be connected with a wire nut and the bottom wire would be capped off.  For always on, bundle all three wires.

To release the wires from the stab connectors, there is a slot that you can fit a small screw driver in to push open the connector.


What could cause tap water to become smelly after a while? I keep two glass bottles filled with tap water in a small fridge in my bedroom. The tap water smells fine out of the spout. A few days ago I noticed that the tap water begins to smell bad after sitting in the bottles for a few hours (in the fridge or at room temperature, it doesn't seem to matter). This is a brand new behavior.

As an experiment I boiled some tap water and put that into the (clean) bottles for a few hours. Previously-boiled tap water begins to smell bad after a few hours too.

I have a well and everything's been swell for the past four years. I have a water softener which seems to be working fine. My pressure tank is fairly recent (a few years old). It has been (quite) a while since I've had the well checked or the water tested.

Any ideas?

Get the water tested first to determine the source of the smell.I would test three samples,out of the well but before the softener,after the softener but before the tap and at the tap.This will isolate each componant as the source.Don't forget the fridge door dispenser if you have one.The smell may not be evident until it absorbes oxygen from the air.


How to take out the toilet water inlet faucet knob The water inlet got stuck with no incoming water. Suspected it's fully blocked by sand and mud. It's with slow water ingress before but still works. The knob is without screw at the top. Could anyone advise how to take out the knob in order to take out the ceramic cartridge, I think it is, apart for cleaning?

Finally, I fixed it. I used a big flat screw driver to pry the knob off. One step for a quarter turn. The knob is loosened in about two full turns. Then, use a spanner to remove the nickel painted copper cap that holds the faucet filter cartridge. Once removed the cartridge with a pliers, the dirt and mud is draining out. The cartridge is full of mud. I cleaned up before putting it back to the shelf to remove the faucet.


How to compliantly bond galvanized water pipes if the water heater isn't an option In a previous electrical inspection, I was told to add a 4 AWG CU bonding wire from the main panel to the hot and cold pipes on my water heater. I'm in the process of replacing my water heater with a tankless one, and the pipes leading to it with PEX. So, this bonding wire really has nothing on the water heater to connect to. I could add a short piece of copper pipe to the water inlet/outlet (currently planning on braided flex pipe, then ball valve, then PEX, then (inside wall) galvanized), but bonding to these does nothing for most of the galvanized pipes elsewhere in the house (which, over time, I'll replace with PEX).
There is some galvanized pipe in the walls that I'll connect the PEX to the water heater to. I'm assuming buried in the wall is not accessible and hence not compliant.
Can it be anywhere in the water system where there is galvanized pipe or does it need to be within 10' of the water entrance to the building (as I've read elsewhere, but can't find in NEC)? If I do that, I don't know I can do both cold and hot - there may not be hot water within 10' of where cold water enters the crawlspace. I could feed a bonding wire from the panel to within 10' of where cold enters the crawlspace, and then somewhere else bond just the hot and cold water pipes together. Of course, eventually, all hot will be PEX, at which point, I assume bonding is no longer required.

Accessible means "no demolition needed"
The definition of "accessible" as applied to wiring methods (vs. equipment) is fairly simple:

Accessible (as applied to wiring methods). Capable of being
removed or exposed without damaging the building structure
or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish
of the building.

As a result, having an access hatch, cover plate, or such that needs to be opened to access the bonding connection is not an issue.
Bonding and grounding are two different things
Your situation, with a galvanized service line but a mix of metal and plastic interior piping, does put an emphasis on the distinction between grounding to a water service and bonding your water piping to ground.  In houses with all-metal plumbing, all-plastic plumbing on a metal service, or all-metal plumbing on a plastic service, this is handled through a single connection to the water system. This leads people to ignore the distinction, but since you have a mix of plastic and metal plumbing on a metal service, you need to pay attention to what you're doing insofar that a bond at one point won't be sufficient.
You'll need something fatter than 4AWG, too
The other problem is since you have a 400A service landing on service equipment on the exterior of the house (vs. a "maypole" service where the service equipment's on a pole with the meter), you need to size the bonding and grounding system accordingly.  While a 4AWG copper conductor is adequate for grounding to ground rods or an Ufer electrode due to the NEC 250.66(A) and (B) exceptions to normal grounding electrode conductor sizing, water service line electrodes have no such exception, so its grounding electrode conductor needs to be the full size required by your service, or 1/0AWG for an overhead 400A service (600kcmil total area) as per table 250.66 in the NEC, and also needs to connect to the plumbing within 5' (not 10') of where the service line enters the building as per NEC 250.68(C) point 1:

(C) Grounding Electrode Conductor Connections. Grounding electrode conductors and bonding jumpers shall be permitted to be connected at the following locations and used to
extend the connection to an electrode(s):

(1) Interior metal water piping that is electrically continuous
with a metal underground water pipe electrode and is
located not more than 1.52 m (5 ft) from the point of
entrance to the building shall be permitted to extend the
connection to an electrode(s). Interior metal water
piping located more than 1.52 m (5 ft) from the point of
entrance to the building shall not be used as a conductor to interconnect electrodes of the grounding electrode
system.

However, since you have metal pipework that's not electrically continuous with the service line, you also need to bond that piping to the grounding electrode system or service equipment as per NEC 250.104(A)(1).  Fortunately, the Table 250.104(C) requirements for bonding jumper sizing also require 1/0AWG wire for your application, so you don't need yet another size of wire, at least.  Furthermore, unlike grounding electrode conductors, these water system bonding jumpers do not need to be run without splice or joint, so that gives you much more flexibility as to how you arrange them.  The caveat here, though, is you can't just bond the cold water pipe and call it done; that "island" of metal hot water piping must be bonded as well, even if you have to make the bonding connection under a sink or such.


How to install dryer ducting inside existing wall? I'm thinking about installing a recessed dryer box like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dundas-Jafine-Recessed-Dryer-Vent-Box-DRB4XZW/202449693

Apparently with 4" studs you have to compress the vent into an oval shape inside the wall.  Then I assume you have to cut the framing at the top of the wall so the pipe can pass through.

My questions are:

How do I modify the framing at the top of the wall where I sever the
2x4?  I assuming something should be done to brace the section that
was cut out.
If I'm doing this on an existing wall, would I be better off just
opening the entire section of sheet rock between the studs?  I do have a
lot of work to do with sheet rock and this wouldn't add much more to
it.
Has anyone tried this as new or old construction? Should I just keep the vent external to the wall?

Thanks!

If the wall is non-load bearing, you may not need to do anything. If
the wall is loadbearing, you should probably not do this at all, or you should exit the cavity space through a side, not through the top.
It would be a heck of a lot easier to do with the wall open.
I would in general prefer a vent that only goes directly through the wall (shortest-way) rather than one enclosed in it for a significant distance. Dryer ducts need maintenance, and a duct buried in the wall is hard to check, and harder to maintain/repair/replace/inspect than one that is exposed. If enclosing it for a significant distance, I'd want 2x6 or double 2x3 or 2x4 (separate studs for each side with space in the middle) wall so as not to have the duct not quite fit. And I would make certain that I had adequate access points to get a cleaning rod through the entire duct without a great deal of fuss and bother.

Best dryer vent I ever had was not quite the best possible, but it was close - one elbow and 2 feet of rigid duct right out the wall. If you can back right up to the outside wall and have 6" of duct, you'e about as good as it gets. If you need a long  tortuous duct path to get the dryer vented outside, you may want to rethink where the laundry is located - there is probably a better location for it (and perhaps one closer to where dirty clothes, sheets and towels are generated, and clean ones stored, than many houses have due to people following old habits of laundry placement that make no sense without servants, laundry chutes, and dumbwaiters...)


I have two cables going into a ceiling electrical box; how can I tell which is coming from the panel? I have two cables going into a ceiling electrical box; how can I tell which is coming from the panel?

Turn off the appropriate breaker
Make sure, with a non-contact tester, that all the wires are "dead"
Take pictures of the wires as currently installed, so you know what goes where
Disconnect the wires and cap them with wire nuts for safety
Turn on the breaker
Check with a non-contact tester to determine which wires have power

As others have noted, non-contact testers can give false positive readings. That is good from a safety standpoint, but sometimes gets in the way of figuring things out! If a non-contact tester shows both cables "live" even after they are disconnected from each other, then either one is a false positive or there is something really wrong - unusual but possible. The next test is with a multimeter to check voltage. That eliminates some, but not all, phantom readings. If a multimeter shows one of the cables with a low-but-not-zero voltage, that is typically a phantom voltage. But if it shows something close to the usual 120V, it could be real. The final test is to (carefully, doing any actual connecting/disconnecting of wires with the breaker safely off) put a load into the circuit. With a light fixture, the simplest thing is to connect only one of the cables and see what you get. If that shows "live" then disconnect it and connect the other cable and see what you get. Of course, a switch (if properly wired) complicates things too. Sometimes the solution is to think through the possibilities logically, carefully and methodically to figure out what is actually going on.


Exposing Beams in existing ceiling I am planning to remove drywall ceiling and expose the beams. The area is above kitchen and family room. There are quite a few recessed lights and fans.

What considerations I have to bear in mind when I do this in terms of home value and sellability ?

You say the room is above the kitchen and family room. Does this mean the room is on the top flor? If so, you could be exposing attic insulation.

Beams used for concealed construction is often of a lower grade and may have large or missing knots, checks, etc.

Often roofing nails will penetrate the roof sheathing and you’ll need to cover the roof sheathing and nails. (When the drywall is removed, you’ll need to “deal” with the nail holes too.)

Of course you’ll need to reroute any electrical, heating ducts, drainage pipes, etc. Beams with holes drilled for electrical wires, etc. will need to be patched. Or, you’ll need to create a design scheme that is rustic so the holes don’t matter.


what is the best route for my shed? what amperage should I use? ok...so...I am undecided what to use to power up this detached shed, which is 70 feet away from the main panel. I obviously want to go the safest route (shed is 200 square feet) Before hand, I really want to go the 30amp route, due to its cost friendly ways and I dont think I am going to use that much power; just want some opinions.

route 1 -

Use a double pole 60amp with #6-3 UF wire to feed a 60amp sub panel in the detached shed? (wire will be buried)

route 2 -

use a double pole 30amp 10-3 wire UF rated to feed a 50 or 60amp sub panel in the detached shed and use pvc conduit for the wire (or does NEC only allow direct burial with no conduit for UF wire?

what I plan on using in the shed -
3 security cameras
5 outlets (GFCI)
power tools such as table saws and vacuums
small TV and leave batteries charging

thats about it....

what is the best route?

A 30 amp and 60 amp two pole breaker are basically the same price.

The panel is the same price in both scenarios.

The labor to install it is practically the same.

The only difference is the price of the wire.

For 70 feet of wire price difference I wouldn't skimp on this one.

I would go for scenario #1 and have enough capacity for future expansion.

Good luck!


Is fan fold insulation an acceptable underlayment for hardwood? Is fan-fold insulation an acceptable underlayment for hardwood?  It is being used as a leveler from one floor level to another.

-Is fan fold insulation an acceptable underlayment for hardwood?

As a complete underlayment for snap-lock flooring, yes but I'd be more comfortable using rolls similar to what the manufacturers specify.
Hardwood flooring installed traditionally with nails is to be installed directly on the subfloor. (Rosin paper is optional)

-But it is being used as a leveler from one floor level to another.

Then no, don't count on foam to make a good shim. Use appropriately thick plywood to shim any low areas. If 1/8" sheets would be to thick, use a planer to bevel the offending area of the floor, bringing it down to an acceptable fudge (the foam is for fudging any discrepancies; not a blatant mismatch of floor levels).


Can you use a section of 3/8" pipe in a 1/2" water pipe run? The water supply is for hooking up a washing machine.

Sure, but it's going to fill slower if you do.  The washing machine won't care, it doesn't fill by time, it fills by volume.

The narrow pipe may throw off your "warm" setting somewhat.  If the hot and cold lines are not equal, they'll flow at a different rate.

The narrow pipe will help your "hot" setting be hotter - if it's on the hot pipe and if it's a long run. You know when you open a faucet and the hot water runs cool for a few seconds? That is the water that is already in the pipe and it has cooled off. On a smaller diameter pipe, there will be less water in the pipe (almost half as much, 3/8 vs 1/2).


Hanging faux wood blinds- screw broken. Is there a tough screw I can use for a wall stud? Job= I was trying to hang up some new faux wood 2" slat blinds. It's a double sized window, so I bought 2 blinds. I needed to install 4 brackets, with 2  in the center. I predrilled the holes as the directions suggested, with a 1/16" drill bit.

Problem= When I tried to install one of the center brackets, I noticed that my screw had difficulty going in. I figured I had hit a stud in the wall. But I figured that my screw should be tough enough to handle it. It broke off while I was screwing it with my Phillips. I know that the answer should be just to move my bracket away from the stud, but the stud is right where the center of both of my blind ends meet.

Question= What kind of screw should I get that will be tough enough to go into the wood without breaking off? It needs to be a small screw, the kind of size that will fit in a blind bracket. (the directions didnt indicate to me what the size of the screw was). I just want to know what kind of screw to get. I have heard of titanium screws- are those especially tough and something I should consider? Or do they make screws especially for studs?

I will be going to Lowe's tomorrow. I didnt want to have to ask them because the last time I asked them a question they didnt know the answer, so I am asking everyone here. Thanks, Julie

Edit: I tried another screw 1 inch away from where the other screw broke, and that screw broke also. I am going to have to 1) Try to drill more deeply and see if that helps, 2) Buy special wood screws. I'll look for the  most expensive wood screws. 3) It might be a metal plate that I cant see. If that is the case, I will return the 2 blinds and purchase a double wide blind. Thanks everyone for your advice! I looking for a 1 1/4 inch screw.

You said you pre-drilled but then said you thought you hit a stud with the screw?

Nope not if you pre-drilled.

If you did that properly and drilled all the way into what the depth of your screw would be, you would have drilled into that stud and the screw would go in just fine. The drill bit when you backed it out, you should have seen the pine wood on the bit flute : if it went into a stud.

Perhaps you did not drill deep enough or maybe there is a metal protective plate - protecting pipes or wires. Further your drill bit could be a size to small for the screws.

Wood Screws are what you want - standard wood screws are fine - they go through studs just fine - pine is a VERY soft wood (of course that is relative - if some one hit me with one I probably would say it was hard enough).

No there are no special screws just for studs.

When was your home built and did they use steel studs to build it ?


Old Home - Trying to Figure out Living Room Switches I have 3 light switches and one regular ceiling light currently in my living room. One of them is a light/fan switch and two of them (in a 2 gang box) are pretty old and I am not sure what they are for (as they do not do anything). The ceiling light box has 2 hots (fan/light), a neutral and a ground.
I removed the old light switches to see what is going on one of them said it was a 3 way switch (strange because it only 2 screws) and they were wired pretty strangely as one hot wire was wrapped around both switches (see pictures). I would like to replace the fan/light switch with a dimmer switch as well as figure out what those 2 switches are for. I have a feeling the old light switches are a 3 way for the light fixture, but not sure how it would work.

Thanks for all of the help

You have a dangerous situation.

While it may not be knob and tube (an old standard that often poses serious risk), you have cloth covered wiring that is obviously deteriorating, posing a risk of short circuits and fire. For example, in the upper picture, the switch on the right has exposed wire that is a shock and fire hazard.

We could try to diagnose the switching issues (e.g., there are no three way switches illustrated), but you have a more basic problem.  This is probably the time to call in a professional to discuss replacing some of this very risky stuff.


Advice on cracks in wall and concrete garage floor I'm considering buying a house which is about 5 years old. For the most part everything seems to be in good condition.

The two exceptions seem to be the poured concrete garage floor, which has a few massive cracks, and a storage room below the garage with smaller cracks on the walls. The house is on a slope so the garage is supported at the ground level on the one side and then extends across and over the storage room on the other side.

The cracks in the garage floor are about 1cm in width at their widest parts:

The storage room wall cracks are much smaller, maybe 3mm:

The owners claim that an engineer inspected the cracks soon after the house was built (as they were already present), and found that they were caused by the settling of the house. I have asked for the formal report, but would like your opinion as well.

Do these cracks look benign? The garage floor cracks are especially worrisome.

DO NOT ignore this issue. The rule of thumb is that if you can get your finger in a crack, it's a problem. You're saying 1cm wide, which is in the problem zone, IMO.

The cracks might stem from a bad concrete pour. In which case the cracks may have been there since just a few days or weeks after the pour. That certainly possible, and an engineer can tell you if it is.

It's also possible that something is seriously amiss. If so, and you buy the house, then you will be looking for someone to sue when the problem reveals itself more fully. Make sure you have an engineer's report in your pocket when that happens.


What causes roller marks in painting? Does the quality of paint or lack of skill cause roller marks?
The painter is blaming the quality of paint not his skills.

Possibilities:

Low grade paint
cheap roller or dirty roller, that hold paint in crevices (squirt out as paint is applied)
low nap - I always use at least 1/2"
painting style - basically not varying your strokes, painting unevenly, and the biggest one is pressing down on the roller because paint is low.  Not dipping into the paint bin is the cardinal sin.  A lot of times when you hire someone and the paint is part of the package this is often the problem.  As they try to save on paint costs they make every drop last and you run into issues like this.

Just know that even with the crappiest paint you can get it on a wall without roller marks.  This isn't rocket science and you should be able to rectify the marks if you are inspecting while painting, before the paint has dried.  But do note if you have roller marks and are using a low quality/thin paint it will be much harder to fix them with another coat as the marks will bleed.  At that point you might need a thin coat of primer.


Should I use waterproofing product or caulk at the base of my foundation walls? So I am about to Drylok my basement to treat old cinder blocks with a hint of moisture. I have the old asbestos tiles on the floor.  I know the dangers of removing these.  Basically all of the tiles along the wall have popped up due to moisture.  So I have the bare slab meeting the wall at the base.

Should I Drylok down to the slab and a couple inches over, or is there some kind of masonry caulk to put down where the slab meets the wall?

The waterproofing material's spec sheet will tell you how wide of cracks it's designed to accommodate. That should be your guide. If your joints are wider than that, move to a caulk. If they're extremely wide (over 3/8" or so), consider a rope caulk or a masonry patch product as support for the sealer product.


Will adding a cool air return in the basement help with summer AC power usage? Pretty much the title. I have a full basement. Part of it is unfinished and has the water heater, furnace, and washer / dryer. The other part (roughly 1/2 of the total space) is partially finished. It has a dropped ceiling and wood panel walls, both with no added insulation. There is an AC / heat vent cut into the ceiling. It is currently taped shut. There is no cold air return.

Even with the vent closed, that area of the basement stays pretty cool even in the hottest part of the summer. I'm assuming because cold air sinks and the ceiling isn't insulated. I'm thinking about adding a cold air return near the bottom of the floor and uncovering the vent. The thought is that the AC would cycle air through the basement and pull the cool air back into the main living area. Should this work? Anyone have before and after experience doing this kind of thing?

Furnace installers and/or home owners will put a registers in the duct work to provide some heat or A/C to that area. The number of these supply and return registers is determined by the typical use and desired temperature of this area. I recommend that all basements should have at least 2 supply registers and 1 return register in the basement/equipment area just to keep that area slightly warm or cool and the air fresh. If you are going to finish that area to be used as living space, then more supply and returns will be needed. Also you may want to close the supply registers in the summer when using the A/C since cold air is heavy and will move to the lowest level in the house. Leave the returns (mounted at the floor level) open to circulate that air all the time.


Help installing Nest Smoke/Co alarm to capped ceiling light wires I am trying to install a Nest Protect (co/smoke alarm) and need to connect a black wire to the power line (which is the the one with the red cap after I used a voltage detector) and the white wire to the neutral line. I need help with the following:

1) how do I know which is the neutral and which is the interconnect - I think the neutral is the single black line pictured with the yellow cap as the white line needs to be connected with the braided line for the other lights to work so I thought that would be the interconnect. Does that sound right?

2) how do I join the black wire from my Nest to the power line when the power line is those three lines with a copper tip in the red cap?

Based on information from Nest's website, the Nest Protect doesn't have wired interconnect, only wireless, so you shouldn't have to worry about the interconnect wire - unless your user manual says something differently?

I'm guessing that the white/braided wires with the white cap is your neutral line. Since there are three hot wires running through your junction, there would likely be three neutrals as well. This can be confirmed by:

Disabling power to your circuit (turn off breaker)
Disconnecting the wires under the white cap
Turn power back on and check to see if any lights don't work
If so, that's your neutral

As for joining into the black wire - I would try to remove the copper connector and then tie in your Nest's wire using a new wire nut. If the connector is crimped on too tightly, you'll have to clip the wires back just behind the connector, re-strip them, and then install the new wire nut.


Island sink drains... slowly We've converted our kitchen to an open plan by tearing out the wall separating kitchen from dining area, so that the sink and dishwasher are now in an island.  The wall that I tore out, of course, contained the kitchen sink's vent to the roof.  After a good deal of research, I settled on a Studor Mini-Vent AAV under the counter; it's mounted as high as I could manage without scraping the underside of the countertop, so it's 20 inches above the P-trap and about 15 inches above the bottom of the sink.  (The minimum requirement is 4 inches; I think I've got that covered!)

The problem is that - with the faucet running full-blast - the sink simply fills up until there's about an inch of water in the bottom; at that point the drain rate catches up to the fill rate, and the sink doesn't fill any further unless it's plugged.  If the water is turned off, the sink will drain, but it takes several minutes to empty.

If I unscrew the AAV, the sink drains almost instantly.  If I then put my hand over the top of the pipe - sealing it - the sink again fills to about an inch.  I've tested the AAV by trying to breathe in through it - there's no noticeable resistance - and breathe out through it - it plugs, as I would expect.  As far as I can tell, it's working properly - but it won't let the sink drain.

Random facts that may or may not be pertinent:

The old sink had two basins; the new sink only has one deep basin.
The drain riser that comes up through the floor connects to a 10-foot, nearly-horizontal run of 2" pipe along the ceiling of the garage below.  That run used to be nearly flat, and I used to have to snake it every few months; it's been replaced with a new section of pipe and the slope has been increased slightly.  The pipe is brand new, and has never had anything but clear water run through it.
That horizontal run dumps into a much larger 5" vertical riser that's shared with our next-door neighbor's kitchen (we live in a townhouse complex).

As requested, here's a picture of the top of the stack:

I took pictures of the whole run, from sink to sewer pipe; they're available here if needed for clarity.

How can I get the sink to drain normally?

Update:
The problem appears to have resolved itself, and it appears to have been some sort of very minor obstruction - not in the drain, but in the garbage disposal.  At the time I posted the question, I had finished the plumbing but not the electrical wiring for the island; the first time I ran the garbage disposal, the drain ran freely and hasn't had an issue since.  I still don't understand the physics - why would removing the AAV have had an effect when the garbage disposal was the issue? - but I'm satisfied that the problem isn't/wasn't a venting issue.

As suggested, I'm posting the (accidental) resolution as an answer.

Update: The problem appears to have resolved itself, and it appears to have been some sort of very minor obstruction - not in the drain, but in the garbage disposal. At the time I posted the question, I had finished the plumbing but not the electrical wiring for the island; the first time I ran the garbage disposal, the drain ran freely and hasn't had an issue since. I still don't understand the physics - why would removing the AAV have had an effect when the garbage disposal was the issue? - but I'm satisfied that the problem isn't/wasn't a venting issue.


Building Steps Up to Code? First Time Attempting Steps I recently built a paver patio and the existing porchsteps that were removed during the process no longer fit. I am attempting to research building a new set of steps and my head is spinning with how to build these things in line with code.
I am located in Western New York. I know my rise from the ground to the house threshold is 26 inches. I don't care how long the run is as the steps are running out to a patio.
My initial thought was to buy a 3 step pre-cut stringer from Lowe's as I have never attempted to cut my own before. The stringers are 6.5 inches, which would be perfect as 6.5 * 4 is 26, with the house acting as the fourth step. Then I got to thinking that the additional inch added from the decking board would throw off this math. A 7.5 inch total height step would mean that my last step, into the house, is three inches less than the other steps (factoring in the additional thread inch for each of the three steps on the stringer).
When code references step height, is it referring to the total height between the stringer and the stair thread, or just the height that the stringer is cut to? Would it be acceptable to use the 6.5 inch stringer with the standard 1 inch decking board, for a total of 7.5 inches, meaning that the last "step" into the house would be three inches less than the steps on the stringer?
Thanks,
Justin

Building codes are talking about the height difference between each finished step and landing, once all treads and finished floors are installed.

You are allowed a 3/8-inch difference in rise between the shortest step and tallest step.
Also, max 3/8-inch difference in tread depth or run
Because the stair code folks love to say 3/8-inch, the amount of tread overhang should be 3/4-inch to 5/4-inch with up to a 3/8-inch variation between the least and most overhang

If you build a staircase where one step is 3-inches different height than all the other steps, people will trip on that step sometimes, and your homeowner's insurance will put the blame squarely on you.
I bought a book about staircases called Building Stairs by Andy Engel when I was doing a few projects at a home I owned where several staircases were falling down.  It was worth the money!  Many libraries are full of good home improvement books too; in my area, you can search online before you even go to the physical library to look.


Regrouting countertop/backspash joint - masking tape to simplify cleanup? I have a granite kitchen countertop with a tile backspash.  The grout in the joint where the tile abuts the countertop is crumbling, and I'm planning to scrape out as much as I can and replace it with sanded caulk.

I'm thinking of putting down masking tape on the countertop and the tile leaving only the joint exposed, to make cleanup easier.  Is there any reason NOT to do this?

Actually, I think that's a great idea, and I'd tape both faces. I'd then apply a very small bead and tool (finger) it out once. Then I'd pull the tape and tool it again. You're likely to have a few spots where you apply too much caulk, and it'll come off with the tape. Your second tooling will remove the tape lines.


Is the Shark Bite product illegal in Vermont? Is the use of shark bite connectors forbidden in Vermont? If so,what other options would I have replacing the pipe connectors under our sink without soldering?

The major reason for plumbing items to be forbidden (specifically in Vermont) is that they are not "Lead-Free" which Vermont has been an early-adopter state in requiring.

The following from Shark-Bite would appear to indicate that this should not be a problem with any fittings that have not been sitting around for 5 years or more:

  SharkBite Push-to-Connect Fittings

  The SharkBite push-to-connect range is made from Lead Free DZR Brass
  and all products were converted as of October 2012. The standard
  material versions of SharkBite push-to-connect fittings are no longer
  in production, but we do continue to offer a small range of 5/8″
  fittings in standard material, specifically intended for radiant
  heating applications. As a running change, these fittings will be
  converted to Lead Free in due course. Our SharkBite 2XL Large Diameter
  fittings have been Lead Free since their introduction in February
  2011. SharkBite PEX/barb fittings

  Our PEX/barb range is made from Lead Free DZR brass and all products
  were converted as of October 2012. We have also implemented an
  extended range of engineered polymer barb fittings.


Framing near rough in plumbing and sump pit Going to be framing in a bathroom in our basement that has rough in plumbing.
How close can i frame to a sump pit?
And can framing go over a concrete drain box or do I leave a gap in the bottom plate and just have verticals on either side?

Your wall plate can easily span that rough-in box. That's not a concern. What is maybe a concern is the location of the rough-in. Doesn't look quite right for a standard tub or shower. The builder may have expected a slightly larger room.

I'm not aware of any rules regarding clearance around a sump pit. You'd obviously want the lid to function properly (even after drywall and any trim) and space for any plumbing. Other than that, squeeze away. Looks like there's plenty of room to the other sides anyway.


Why did my newly applied paint run and not adhere to the wall? I painted my bathroom, then woke up the next morning to find that half the paint from the top of the window wall had dripped back off again, leaving really big tear marks down the wall.

The bathroom was originally painted the blue colour.  I sanded, applied sugar soap and waited till it dried, and just applied white paint as the color I am putting on is lighter. There was no silicone or anything. I just think the wall is that damp. The paint covered really well so I was all set to add the colour on top the next day. The wall gets damp overnight as do the window, toilet etc. from condensation I think.

I have really limited money and was advised to use PVA on the wall to seal it, then paint over that once dry to get the paint to stick.

Has anyone tried this and did it work?

My guess would be that you didn't prime and that you tried to paint over oil paint with a latex paint or some incompatible combination of paints like that.

You should figure out what type of paint was used for the original coat and purchase a suitable primer to go on top, and then apply your new color.  If you really aren't sure, someone at a paint store can recommend a primer that is suitable for a range of scenarios.

Based on the picture I would probably avoid a paint-primer combination product.

Primer is typically pretty cheap so aside from the additional labor and time, it should not add considerable costs to your project.


Can I put a higher amp fuse in a wall mounted fused connection unit? I wasn't sure whether to ask this here or on https://electronics.stackexchange.com/ but this seemed the more appropriate place, please migrate it if not.

I'm in the UK and I've got a wall mounted connection unit (see picture below) with a 5 amp fuse in that leads to a socket outside and a lamp post in the garden.
The outside socket is used for plugging in a catering van to charge the battery, but also to use the sockets inside and power the 12v lighting when it's parked on the drive.

Now the fuse blows sometimes if you plug two things into the sockets in the van, but today I found it had blown sometime between last night and this morning (it was fine last night). When I went to change the fuse it blew the new one straight away. I had to unplug the van and remove the bulb from the outside lamppost before I could put a fresh fuse in and not have it blow.
I can still charge the van (which is the main use for the socket outside) but it would be nice not to have to worry about it.

So my question is, can I put a 13 amp fuse in the unit instead of a 5 amp one? Will this cause any problems (like short circuiting the houses fuse box instead of merely blowing the fuse in the unit) or be dangerous?

In general, NO. Replacing a fuse with a higher-amp fuse is a very bad idea and can lead to fires.

Fuses (and circuit breakers) are rated such that they blow or trip before any part of the circuit gets to a dangerous current. You rate the fuse or breaker based on the lowest current rating of all the devices and wires in the circuit .

In your case, the manufacturer of the connection unit determined (somehow) that the "weakest link" in that circuit can only draw 5A before it exceeds its limits. Putting in a 13A fuse would thus allow that weakest link to draw almost 3 times what it may be designed to, which leads to increased heat and then fires.

There is a reason your fuse is tripping and you need to figure out what that reason is. Perhaps there is a problem with your lamp post, the bulb, one of the sockets, or the van charger. Fix the underlying problem, and you won't have any more blown fuses.


What can I do if drain alignment doesn't allow enough space for p-trap? I'm remodeling my bathroom. The sink drainage come up from the floor. The alignment between that and the drain coming from the sink doesn't have enough space for a p-trap to be installed so it just falls into place and connects the two (prior to remodel there was no p-trap).

I was thinking having a 45 degree pipe come out of the sink, forward then down, then attach the p-trap, and that would allow enough space for overflow to go back and down to floor drain pipe. My crude image of what I mean, circled in red.

Would this allow for proper drainage?

When you purchase a P-trap from the hardware store, you'll end up with these pieces (or something similar).

You'll also want to pick up a 1-1/2 in. PVC 90° slip-joint elbow while you're there.

You'll then want to connect the pieces something like this...

You'll then have to twist the pieces around, until you can get them to fit together. You'll end up with something similar to this.

Though I'm not sure this is code compliant anymore.
In the 2003 version of International Residential Code (IRC), there was this section.

International Residential Code 2003
Chapter 31 Vents
Section P3105 Fixture Vents
P3105.3 Vertical leg for waste fixture drains. A vertical leg (see Figure P3105.3) is permitted within a fixture drain of a waste fixture in accordance with the following criteria:

Minimum trap diameter shall be in accordance with Table P3201.7.
The diameter of Section A shall be equal to the diameter of the trap.
The length of Section A shall not be less than 8 inches (203 mm) and in accordance with Table P3105.1.
The diameter of Section B shall be one pipe size larger than the diameter of Section A.
The length of Section B shall not be more than 36 inches (914 mm).
The diameter of Section C shall be one pipe size larger than the diameter of Section B.
The total length of Section A and Section C shall not exceed the distance allowed in Table P3105.1.
Bends shall be the diameter of the largest connected section.

However, in the 2006 version, this section is gone.


Place drywall joint at sagging truss center or overlap? I added a 10'x15' room and am preparing to hang drywall when I noticed the center of the engineered roof truss (15' span) is sagging slightly.  The 2x4 trusses have a joint in the bottom center.  If I put a 4' straight edge on one side, the gap about 3 foot out on the other side is ~1/4".

Talking with some friends we disagree on how to hang the ceiling drywall.  Should the joint line up with the center of the truss or should the panel cover the center?  Which would reduce the chance for cracking?

Note: Images are exaggerated for clarity.

Option 1: Joint in center

Option 2: Overlap center

Your trusses are defective and done very wrong and would only be used atop columns, supporting beam or bearing wall. Call the truss manufacturer for replacements that are built right, solid and seamless sticks on the bottom.

Sagging before even installing the drywall's load is a disaster ready to happen!

After that correction, then you can put your drywall joint on the truss for very wide butt-joint treatment. Or even better is, to put your joint between trusses and very shallowly "V" back-blocking framing for a tapered treatment.


Advice on Furnace water leak, should I worry? A week back we noticed our rug in front of the Furnace was soaked. Upon investigation I found that the leak appeared to be coming from a Vent Coupling (Vent Elbow) that leads out to our roof.
I tightened the clamps on the Vent Coupling and the leak appeared to be resolved. From the rust and damage at the bottom of the Furnace it appears that the leak had been occurring for a long time.
The leak appeared to be worse following a rain (cold weather and water coming in from the vent leading to the roof perhaps?), and when we were running the Furnace (extra condensation occurring?).
One big question is: Did the HVAC installers leave the vent coupling loose on purpose? In order to release some water so it didn't clog the exhaust for example? Upon removing the Vent Coupling there was a little water, but less than expected -- there was still plenty of ventilation room to exhaust to the roof.
The unit appears to be using more gas than I would expect, is the extra condensation filtering into that Vent Coupling something I should be concerned with from a security/safety standpoint? Is it safe to wait until June/July to have the furnace inspected?
Here are some details to help: Unit is a Bryant 2 Stage PWM 96 - Model number 926TA42060V17A-B.
Photos for reference are: Vent Coupling, with loosened clamps
Roof exhaust

Water spilling out of a furnace is definitely a problem. As you've experienced, at the very least it may lead to soggy rugs/carpets and the ensuing mold. You also noted that there's rust and damage -- those also are not normal; they are signs that leakage is causing your furnace to literally desintegrate.
There are two common sources of water in a furnace. One is condensate from the exhaust; this occurs during heating season. When natural gas or propane burns one of the byproducts is water. It's a vapor as it leaves the burners but it condenses to liquid on the walls of the exhaust pipe and normally drains back into the furnace. The other source, if you have refrigeration-based air conditioning, is condensate on the evaporator coils. This is humidity that has been drawn/chilled out of the air.
Both liquids can cause problems, but it might be worth noting that the condensate from burned gas is somewhat acidic. That'll cause accelerated decay of the metal furnace cabinet.
So, what to do about the water? There should be some drainage tubes or pipes arranged to catch that water and carry it away, usually to a nearby floor drain. When there's water spilling out where it doesn't belong the first thing to check is that these drainage tubes and the catch basins that feed them are all connected properly and aren't blocked.
As for that loose band clamp around the coupling: it looks like an oversight. It should be snug. You wouldn't want furnace exhaust gases with carbon monoxide and other harmful substances leaking into your home through a loose fitting.


Changing out Combination 2 switches! Trying to slowly replace all of the old switches in our 1980s home and having trouble getting the new Leviton switch to operate the ceiling fan and light.   The two switches operate a ceiling fan and the lights attached to fan.   I've attached a photo of old configuand 2 of the new config--box has 3 black wires and 1 red and of course a ground wire and white wire (never used) in box that are capped ...  tried a few different config with the wires with the new switch but it either turns the light on/no fan or turns the fan on and the hallway light ! Config help please? Thank you!

My hunch is you have 3 cables in this box:

A /2 cable (black white ground?) which delivers power from the panel
A /2 cable (black white ground?) which carries power onward to other loads
A /3 cable (black white red ground?) which carries switched fan power, switched lamp power, and neutral to the fan.

Your old switch had two screws which were joined with a "tab", and the tab was NOT broken off.   If the tab is broken off, the screws are totally separate.  If the tab is NOT broken off, then it's a fat 4-way splice, connecting (that side of) both switches, and both attached wires also.  This is confusing, but it's also just what is needed.

Each switch has power on one side, and on the other side, switched-power to the fan or lamp.  So you make the "one side" the "common" side with the tab not broken off.

Based on my earlier assumptions, the black wires from both /2 cables go on the "common" side.

That leaves the red and black from the /3 cable going to the 2 screws on the independent side.


How to deal with little holes in shower's tiled wall My shower wall had a tiny towel rack which was installed with screws.  Because of the location, I tended to bang my head on the corner when coming in close to the faucets to adjust the temperature.  I took it out.  I couldn't leave holes, so I sealed the holes with screws and washers.  That is effective in that it keeps the water out of the holes, but I don't like the way it looks.  What would be an alternative approach?

Alternatives:

Remove screws and fully dry the holes and tiles there. Then back fill the holes with a colored epoxy that color matches close to the tile.
Back fill the holes with a tile grout material of color similar to the tile color.
Break or cut out the tile with the holes and replace with one of the spare left over tiles from the original installation job. (Hoping that you have such tile).


Can I use auto primary wire to add a new receptacle in my garage? I need to add one more power outlet to my garage. The wiring for the existing ones uses 14-2 gauge solid wire. I have an entire role of this, worth of $60 which I don't entirely need but I bought it this way because I thought I would, and it was cheaper by meter/feet than buying exactly what I needed. Later on I discovered that I could buy "primary wire" (auto cable, seems to be stranded) for a much lower price.

What I need to know is what would be wrong if:

I use auto primary cable instead of 14-2 gauge
I mix the two (connect the stranded to non stranded)

In terms of intended purpose, the power outlet would be used to connect power tools if I need to work around my garage or if I need to work on my car.

I would extend the circuit for the additional outlet using approved mains wiring. Being that the existing uses 14 awg wire use the same type to hook up the new outlet. The cost of the correct style of wire will not be that great.

AC mains wiring has agency approved style insulation on the wiring designed to properly stand up to the voltage and abrasion tolerance needed for the application. Typical automotive wiring may not meet these requirements. I do hope that your existing 14-2 wiring is actually 14-2/wGND.

Another consideration is that the solid mains style wiring works much better under the screw terminals on switches and outlets than stranded wire. In automotive application the stranded wire is used because it is more flexible and works very well with crimp style terminals.


What should the plenum temperature be on a modern furnace I had a tech out to review my furnace that's not keeping up - a Trane XV80. They poked around, and saw that the plenum temperature is 95F. They then told me that it should be around 140F, which is clearly, substantially more. The thing that confused me is that in the same breath, he said that the temp delta between the return and the plenum should be 20-30F, which would mean a return temp of 110-120, which is impossible.

So - which is it? And what causes a low plenum temp / how can it be remedied?

The proper delta T for a heat pump is 20-30*F.  For a forced air fossil fuel furnace I would expect to see 35-70*. If the return air was 50* you could easily have a plenum temp of 95* and if you had really good air flow across the exchanger, the return could be 60* and still have that discharge temp.  As to a remedy there are simply too many factors involved to address through correspondence.   In a nut shell the furnace has to put-out more Bu's than the floor, walls and ceiling loose for any given period.


How to reinforce a floor joist with a split knot? An electrician ran some new wires and had to bore through the floor joists. In doing so, one came very close to a knot in the wood. The floor above squeaks now as a result, where it didn't before. This is probably just a minor annoyance but I'd like to fix it if possible. What options do I have, given the electrical wire running through it?

I'm not convinced that this is causing the squeak. The amount of wood that was removed is trivial. I'd investigate further first. Some glue and/or shims or the tightening of a fastener may resolve the issue. Otherwise...
They make steel repair channels for this type of thing, but they're likely not cheap. Your goal is to restore the tension strength of the bottom portion of the joist. Here's what I'd do as a DIY repair, based on decades of home construction and ownership experience:

Determine whether the joist has sagged at all. Run a long level or other reliable straightedge across the bottoms of the joists. If that one's low even 1/16" relative to several in either direction, put a jack and a stud under it and give it a gentle lift. Ideally, shoot for 1/16" above level to account for some settling later.
Prepare 4-6 foot 2x4 gussets for both sides of the lower portion of the joist. These should be ripped or notched to fit under the cable.
Liberally apply heavy duty construction adhesive to the each gusset and fasten them with 2-1/2" gold general purpose screws in pairs every 12" or so. I recommend Torx-drive for easier installation. Keep them at or slightly above flush at the bottom so you don't create a bump in the ceiling.

Be sure that the gussets pull tight with the first few screws. You can't move them with additional screws. If necessary, pilot through the gussets to the size of the screw threads.
Let the assembly dry for 24 hours before removing the temporary post. 48 hours is even better.


Remove garbage disposal piece in bottom of sink I am replacing a new sink in my kitchen and this piece is from the garbage disposal

Do I just break the glue / putty free and pull it out?

You need to loosen the 3 screws that push the collar (top piece in your image) against the bracket (bottom piece) into the sink. Once that is done, a lock ring will be visible (underneath where the collar currently sits). Use some pliers to remove that, and then all the pieces on the underside can be removed. You can then break the putty / silicone to remove the gasket from the drain hole in the sink.

All that said, if you're tossing the sink, it's much easier to just buy a new garbage disposal installation kit, which contains all the pieces shown in your image. Install the new kit on your new sink, and then install the old garbage disposal on it.


Do modern, well designed circuit breakers and/or panels have a 25-40 year lifespan? If I type "electrical panel lifespan" into Google, I get a lot of results from electrical service providers that panels and circuit breakers both wear our after several decades, and require replacement.  Some suggest as short as 25 years!
I'm more than a little skeptical of this.  I don't know of anything in the NEC that requires replacement of a panel or breakers.  Also, given the source, I suspect a large conflict of interest is at work here, and these electricians are attempt to install fear into people to sell them a product they don't need.
Is there any serious merit to this? I've no doubt that a breaker that trips all the time might need to be replaced, but in all the houses I've lived, breaker trips are rare.

I suspect part of the problem may be AFCI, GFCI and other recent advancements. A simple panel is totally passive - as long as there are no loose connections causing sparks/arcs, and actual breaker trips are not very frequent, there is little to wear out.
However, code has changed over the last few decades to mandate AFCI and GFCI protection. Breakers which include AFCI and/or GFCI protection have complex electronics - in many cases actual microcontrollers - and are therefore much more susceptible to wearing out, just like any other complex electronic device. In fact, many of these devices now have built-in automatic testing to help avoid surprises.
On the other hand, I have read many times that typical large appliances (refrigerator, dishwasher, clothes washer, dryer, etc.) have 10 - 15 year lifetimes. But those devices can often be kept running far longer with relatively minor repairs. In other words, YMMV.


Why are our toilets not flushing correctly after our septic system was cleaned? We just our septic tanks cleaned.  The lines had suction applied. Now neither of our toilets will flush correctly. The water will drain out but the paper will not go down.

Any suggestions as to our next move?

As a retired country plumber, I would advise against suction or pressure systems.  They are a no- no in older septic tank installations particularly ones using salt glaze fire clay pipes with cemented joints.  Such pipes are very liable to collapse or obstructions produced by fillets of loose cement that clog up the free flow of the flush. Stick to conventional drain rods and muscle.


Is it possible to add fluoride to my tap water? I live in a city without fluoridated drinking water. Do I have any options for adding fluoride to my tap water?

I found countless results online for filters that can remove fluoride from tap water, but I would like to do the reverse and add fluoride to my water. I am asking the opposite of this question about removing fluoride.

Ideally, I would be able to install some sort of faucet-mounted filter (similar to the image below) that could add safe levels of fluoride to my tap water. Presumably this device would need to be refilled or replaced once in a while. Unfortunately, I suspect that this type of device probably does not exist.

Does a device like this exist? If not, do I have any other options for adding fluoride to my tap water?

I rent an apartment and I am not permitted to make permanent changes to my plumbing. I would prefer options that involve minimal / reversible modifications such as a faucet mounted filter (i.e. solutions that won't upset landlord).

I am aware of the alternative methods for getting fluoride, such as:

Fluoride containing toothpaste
Fluoride containing mouthwash
Fluoride supplements

However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods.

I know this has gotten a bit off topic, but in an attempt to answer the question - according to my wife, a hygienist - your best bet is to use:

Fluoridated toothpaste
Take a fluoride supplement

However, I am specifically asking about ways to add fluoride to tap water and I am not asking about these alternative methods.

Too much fluoride can harm you. After researching this morning, I don't see a way to add it to actual tap water coming out of a faucet as your looking for. Trying to calculate water pressure, flow rate, storage and release time of fluoride tablets would be rather difficult I think. Similar to trying to add a multi vitamin to tap water stream. To little and it'll be ineffective; to much and it would make you sick.
This article may help

According to the CDC, "if fluoride levels in your drinking water are lower than 0.7 mg/L, your child's dentist or pediatrician should evaluate whether your child could benefit from daily fluoride supplements."  The American Dental Association has a standard dosing schedule for fluoride supplements. Fluoride can be given in liquid form or in tablets and is usually taken twice a day and can be mixed with juice, milk, water, or food.
In your conversation with your dentist, you may find that supplements are not necessary if your child drinks a lot of tap water at school or a day care, and if your toothpaste has fluoride and is used on a regular basis. Have an open conversation with your dentist about how to get enough fluoride if you are drinking mostly bottled water, or if you use any alternative to tap water.

Ultimately, discuss this with your hygienist (it's more of the hygienist's responsibilty to answer this then the dentist's) and see if they can recommend a treatment plan or alternatives outside of the dental office.


How do I troubleshoot my electric oven? I've got a Kenmore electric oven, model no. 911.94391790. The other day, the oven was on bake mode @ 350° I heard it make some funny beeping noises and the clock/display area started to flash random digits and lines, then the unit shut off.

After a few minutes, I turned it back on and about 5 minutes later, the same thing happened  as described above.

Now, the clock/display area doesn't work at all. The oven doesn't work in bake, broil or clean mode. However, the burners still work properly.

I'm unsure what to test to determine the problem. If I had to guess I would think it would be the main board, since the display doesn't work, but again I'm unsure.

Is there anything I can test or rule out? If I have to replace the mainboard, what steps need to be taken?

I reset the breaker, unplugged and plugged the oven back in, and it started working again.


What is the best way to adjust pocket doors stuck on carpet? We had new carpet installed with a thicker pad.  Now the pocket doors stick on the carpet.  What is the best way to get at them to adjust them?  The best options I have come up with is to remove the trim (which I do not want to do) or cut a hole in the drywall and repair it (which I may do).

Pocket doors can usually be adjusted by turning/twisting an adjustment screw at the top (sometimes a wheel at the bottom depending on the door). The door should allow for this adjustment somewhere without removing anything.


Best way to create a reversible projector screen? I'd like to build a reversible projector screen like this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMRYCJCZ3Fc

and I'm wondering how you might build the rotating trolley/rail setup.

My first guess is to build the screen and rails out of Unistrut and to add these trolleys to the top and bottom corners of the screen (four in total):

If I go this route, how should I build the pivots that allow the trolleys to turn as the screen reverses? Could I get away with running a piece of threaded rod up each side (from the bottom trolley to the top one on each side of the screen) and then… add a pivot somehow?

Maybe screw a cylindrical standoff around the rod and pair it with a bronze bushing at each corner to allow it to spin?

I don't know much about this sort of construction, so I'd appreciate any advice.

You wouldn't want any standoffs. That would create a problem when you reverse the panel. The pivots must be in plane with the screen.

I'd look for a single bearing wheel that you can mount on a pin or bolt inserted directly into the frame. Luggage wheels might be just the ticket. They'll need to be very close to each corner to allow pivoting without interference.


How can I control a 240V heater from a pushbutton timer switch? I am installing a new in-wall bathroom heater (240V - 6.7A). I want to put the heater on a timer rather than a thermostat. This will keep people from cranking the thermostat WAY up and leaving it that way. The timer should allow people to turn on the heater for up to 15 minutes and should not have a 'always on' option. The heater I'm going to use will heat the bathroom up nicely in 5 minutes or less.

I want to use a timer with buttons (like the one pictured below) rather than a spring loaded dial timer. Lots of companies make these timers but I have been unable to find one for use with 240v.

Why buttons rather than dial? I thought it would be cool. And, I thought such a timer would be easy to find. I retract the "easy to find" statement. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to implement this?

What you want is possible, but requires an extra box

While button-type (electronic) countdown timers that can switch 240V directly aren't a thing due to the limited market they would have; this is still possible provided neutral is available to the timer and you are OK with an extra box hanging around.  In particular, what you can do is use a suitable timer to turn on and off a relay (think "electrically controlled light switch" and you'll be on the right track) that then switches the heater on and off.

What you'll need to do this

You'll need a few parts to do this, as well as a bit of extra wiring:

First, you'll need a suitable timer.  In particular, you'll need an electronic, push-button type countdown timer that requires a neutral for operation, such as the Leviton Vizia LTB-1L; timers that do not need a neutral are not suitable for this application, as they will likely have a minimum load requirement which is not met by a relay coil
You'll next need a suitable relay.  The RIB2401B2G is probably the best choice here: its 20A rating is more than plenty for a 7A heater, and it can safely live within a wall as it's UL listed energy management equipment, suitable for use within plenum spaces
You'll also need to provide a suitable box for making the wiring connections and mounting the relay, as the RIB2401B2G mounts to a standard 3/4" knockout.  This usually isn't an issue with metal boxes, but many plastic boxes don't have knockouts, just NM clamps, so you may need to use an ENT-type plastic box, which does have standard knockouts, or cut your own KO in an existing NM box in that case.
And finally, you'll need to provide neutral at the box for the controls (timer and relay coil).  This can be done either by providing the neutral with the 240V circuit and running the controls off of one leg of the heater circuit while using a common-trip two-pole breaker for the heater circuit (as it's now a mixed 120/240V MWBC), or by running a separate hot and neutral from a 120V lighting circuit for the controls, with the 240V circuit providing no neutral of its own.

How this gets put together

Assuming you have the timer and relay in question attached to the same box, this wires as follows, assuming neutral is being run in with the 240V circuit:

The incoming and outgoing grounds are connected to each other, to the box ground pigtail (if the box is metal), and to the green ground wire from the timer.  Note that the relay in question does not have a ground wire, as it's all buttoned up inside a plastic box.
The incoming black wire (one leg of 240V) gets pigtailed to the black (LINE) wire on the timer and the purple (a COMMON) wire from the relay
The incoming red wire, then, gets connected to the yellow (the other COMMON) wire from the relay, as it's the other 240V leg
The red (LOAD) wire on the timer gets connected to the white/black (Coil 120VAC) wire from the relay; this means that the timer energizes the relay coil whenever it's marking time
The white (NEUTRAL) wire on the timer and the white/yellow (Coil Common) wire from the relay get connected to the incoming white neutral wire
The orange (a Normally Open) wire from the relay connects to the red (or white, flag it red if so) wire going off to the heater
The brown (the other Normally Open) wire from the relay then connects to the black wire going off to the heater
The red/yellow (3-WAY) wire on the timer (if present) is left insulated/unused
And finally, the white/blue (Coil 24VAC), grey (a Normally Closed), and blue (the other Normally Closed) wires from the relay are capped off individually with wirenuts, as they are not used here

If you are running a separate control hot and neutral instead, then the black (LINE) wire on the timer needs to connect to the incoming control hot, and the white (NEUTRAL) wire on the timer and the white/yellow (Coil Common) wire from the relay need to connect to the incoming control neutral.  The ground from the control power cable, of course, needs to be connected to all the other grounds, and all the other wiring remains unchanged from above.


Why are my radiators not heating up? The boiler is on; the pipe near the boiler is hot, but the pipes furthest away are cold. What does that mean, and how can I fix it?

There could be air trapped in your system - that is if the pump is working. You might have to bleed the system at the burner and/or at the radiotors.

And a good flush could help, but you might need help with that.

A : Bleeding valve
B : Trapped Air
E : Reducer boiler performance


Bathroom pocket door warps as fall comes I have a couple pocket doors I replaced a couple years ago in the summer. One door is between a powder room and full bath, the other is between the master bedroom and the same full bath. They're the Jeldwen pre-primed, 6-panel doors from Home Depot.
I hadn't painted them right away, and noticed as fall approached, the door between the bedroom and bath was binding up. I took the bow out by removing the door, lying it flat and placing some weight on it until it was straight again. I also took the time to paint both doors.
Everything was fine up until now, now that it's changing from summer to fall again. This time it will rub and eventually bind up and scrape the the pocket door frame and leave marks in the door.
Anyone have any ideas what's causing this to happen and how to prevent it? Thanks for the help.

this is the bedroom side of the door showing ample gap

this is the bathroom side of the door showing ample gap

A difference of moisture in the door skins is a plausible explanation for the warpage. An interior hollow-core door is usually made with some kind of fiber board skin on each side. That material is prone to expanding when its moisture content increases. I'd expect the skin on the convex side of the door to contain more moisture than the skin on the concave side of the door.
Do the doors warp seasonally, or do they flatten?
It's worth considering whether there's any natural bow in the doors. They could have a manufacturing defect or they might have been been damaged by exposure they've faced. For example, when weights were used to force-flatten the doors, what happened mechanically within the door? Suppose that the adhesive holding the skin to the internal structure shifted. Now the door would be flat when moisture is imbalanced and it would warp the other way when moisture in the two faces is balanced.
If you can bear to have the doors removed for a while you could temporarily move them to a place where they'll have equal temperature and moisture exposure on both sides and find out whether they flatten. Propped up against an interior wall in a bedroom might be a good place. I have no idea whether it'll take days, weeks, or longer for them to relax.
What would cause moisture difference between door faces?
Maybe the answers to some of these questions will help identify what could cause moisture changes.

Are the doors normally left closed?
Is an exhaust fan regularly used in the bathroom to remove moisture during and after bathing?
Does summer air conditioning cause the air on one side of the door to be much drier than the air on the other side?
Does a humidifier in heating season cause a moisture difference between the two sides?
Twice you mentioned "as fall approached." What changed? Longer, warmer, or more frequent baths/showers? Did mild weather allow the HVAC to be completely unused for a while? Is there a change in humidity in your locale as the season changes?

What to do about the situation?
This depends on whether the doors are naturally flat or naturally bowed. You can, and probably should, address any of the situations highlighted by the questions above. All things considered it's probably ideal to have the moisture level in the bathroom match the level in the bedroom and the rest of the house. Maybe an adjustment of habits is called for, or maybe installation of an exhaust fan or adjustment to HVAC equipment or ducting.
Another possible solution is to replace the doors. Next time, buy a solid wood door rather than a hollow core. Door slabs can be ordered with no lock or hinge prep. The 6-panel design is fairly common; you can probably order a solid wood door slab that can be trimmed to work with the existing hardware. When checking the size, don't forget to verify the thickness of the new slab!


Do garage door springs LOSE their "spring"? On a one-piece, single-car door that's rarely opened (springs usually stretched), do they eventually stretch, thus stopping the opener from working?

No, they don't measurably stretch.  The reason is that, by design, the springs are not extended beyond their elastic limit at any point in the open/close cycle.  The amount of "annealing" that takes place over your lifetime is too small to worry about -- or measure.


Turning 100A Main to subpanel of 200A new main I have a 100A old-style circuit breaker main (~1970, 2 conductor & ground) in the basement.

I want to upgrade the circuits in the garage to allow for solar panels and PEV cars, so my thought was to install a new 200A service main outside the basement, turning the old main into a subpanel, and running a new 100-150A subpanel to the garage.

So the garage components, being new would need to conform to NEC 2017 code.

The question is about the old 100 main that would then become a subpanel.  Since it wouldn't conform to newer codes, would I need to replace / upgrade it as well to separate neutral and ground.  See attached picture below.  Neutral and grounds are together on the same bar, and a braided bare copper wire bonds the box to the neutral bar at the inbound conduit.  Also there is no copper grounding rod electrode outside at my house.

My gut tells me I have to upgrade this box to new code, but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks,
Brian

Edit.  Adding second picture of upper left focus.

All responses very helpful, hard to select just one.

First your existing panel falls under the NEC it was built under, whatever it was, in 1970 in your area. This is known as the grandfather clause. So it is fine since you are not trying to add to it, just upgrade your service. Now everything you are installing new has to fall under the code in enforcement in your area today.

So your intent as you have stated is fine. The only thing that I would change in the existing panel would be the grounding. Since you are installing a new 200A main the grounding process must start there. So ground the new panel per the current NEC and remove the bonding screw or jumper from your sub-panel. Install an grounding bus in the  sub-panel and move your ground (bare wires) to the new grounding bus. I can't give you the exact details of how because of lack of information.

Other than that I would say you are good to go. Good luck and stay safe.


Can I run data (e.g., for computer internet access) through my rg6 coaxial cable? I want to be able to hook up computers in different rooms of my house directly to a connection in the wall rather than using wireless.  I have rg6 cable runs (multiple runs) in every room.  I'd rather not break open the walls to run cat6.  I also have fiber running through the walls.  Thoughts, helpful hints, and suggestions are welcome.

The adapters you would look for are called MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapter kits, but they are not very common, and therefore can be expensive.  Basically the MoCA adapter works like a modem that connects computers over a telephone line, but it uses Coax instead.  Each computer needs an adapter, and the computer treats the adapter like any other Ethernet connection.

This PC World article talks about a MoCA installation.  Some of the important takeaways is that Powerline adapters can actually be faster, but MoCA might be more reliable.  If you have satalite TV on the Coax, MoCA might not be an option, and the reliability and speed of either one will depend on the wiring quality in the house.


What can I do about my odd sized heating vents? Two related questions:

I have a problem section of heating vent that is 2.5" x 12". I thought I'd be able to find this size in Lowes or Home Depot, but nothing is even close (I see 3.5" x 10"). Note: This section handles the air into the furnace (from an upstairs register).

The question is: Where can I get 2.5" x 12" or does there exist some place I can order a converter?

The reason for question #1 is a tricky one. I would have to provide some screenshots and way too much info, but I have reason to believe that removing this section altogether might be my best option for now. If I do this, I am concerned that I might be putting too much strain on the furnace.

Here is how it is configured. First, there is a very large air intake register (sorry, I don't know the terminology) upstairs that leads right into the furnace (about 4 feet of 3.5" x 12" ducts). The "problem" duct described above is from another intake register in another room. This doesn't go directly into the furnace. Rather, it comes right in the middle of that 4-foot section of the other air intake. I would imagine that this really doesn't provide that much more air to the furnace, but I could be wrong.

So, to summarize: 1. What to do about odd-sized ducts? 2. Can I just block off that additional air intake, or will my furnace explode?
Thanks.

The "odd size" is due to what was available at the time compared to what is available today. Your exact size may still be available, but not through regular retail outlets, they carry what's commonly demanded. A Heating & Cooling Contractor or their Supply Store may be able to get new replacements readily. Also, scour the Internet, as many suppliers are now offering their catalogs to the world.

If you don't find yourself adjusting the Registers regularly, then you may have a system that was precisely balanced & comfort is always fairly uniform. Changing the size of the Registers & therefore their duct box wouldn't cause a problem or difference, just don't change any actual duct sizes.

Finally, why not repaint them or totally refinish them, if they're in good working order? A trip to an Automotive Store will have the Spray Paint Remover & the new Spray Paint so you can fully restore them back to new in the color you want. Bent fins can be straightened, mangled screws can be replaced & detached operation knobs or handles that are still around (in their absence a longer screw or bolt can suffice) can be drilled & screwed for secure re-attachment.


What should I look for in purchasing a replacement recessed light? I have existing recessed lighting that currently has incandescent bulbs in it.  I want to replace the incandescent bulbs and existing trim with a new LED fixture.  The problem that I am having is that my can seems to be about 4 7/8th inches in diameter.  I have tried both a fixture for 4 inch cans and a fixture for 5 & 6 inch cans and neither option fit.  Is my can a non-standard size or do I need to look for something else when purchasing new fixtures?

Here is what my existing can looks like.  To me, this is a 4 7/8ths inch diameter can.  But is that considered a 5 inch can?

This was a LED light that should work with 5 or 6 inch recessed light cans, it didn't fit at all:

Unfortunately, many LED retrofit kits do not fit the standard incandescent housing. You may find yourself trying many before finding one that works. Each manufacturer may have slight differences. In addition,  if you find one to fit, you may have other issues, such as dimming mismatched technology or tripping breakers. If you are only looking to reuse the actual cans, and change out all other componants, you may utilize your time and money more productively by purchasing complete kits and replacing the entire can.  You may not actually have to even adapt the side of the hole, as the attachments used in many manufactures kits allow for some devience. A major plus, you have a complete lighting system that
comes with everything included. Good luck!


Why does NEC require circuit breaker locks only on hard-wired appliance circuits? The National Electric Code (NEC) Section 422.30 requires "permanently connected appliances" to have "lockable" disconnects, so that power can be reliably cut to the appliance when it is serviced.  Here is an example of a lockable circuit breaker for a built-in oven:

This seems like a great fail-safe to prevent someone from flipping a circuit breaker on while someone else is in contact with a conductor on the circuit.  My question is: Why are lockable disconnects only required for hard-wired appliances?

The picture here shows a 240V 40A circuit, but the NEC rule applies to any appliance rated over 300VA, so such locks also appear on 120V 15A breakers for hard-wired appliances.  But anyone working on a simple wall outlet or light switch could be exposed to at least 1800VA if the circuit breaker were unexpectedly turned on.  So why does the NEC only mandate locks on some appliance circuits, and not all circuit breakers?  Do appliances pose a different and greater hazard than other hot conductors?

Why are lockable disconnects only required for hard-wired appliances?

Because if they plug in, you can just unplug them :)

The purpose of disconnects, whether this type or those in fluorescent lights, is to allow you to unhook it when hardwiring.

The purpose is for lockout/tagout

This is why Code requires a disconnect switch within line-of-sight of the equipment in question. That is true in all instances; mainly this is applicable to industrial.

If a line-of-sight disconnect is not practicable, then Code is allowing a lockout/tagout device in its stead.


Separating neutral and ground in panel I have a 200 amp combination disconnect and 10 circuit panel on the pole feeding my 200 amp panel in my house. Is the panel on my pole considered my main panel and the one in my house a sub-panel requiring me to seperate my ground and neutral? I have run 4-wire underground to my home and was planning on separating the ground and neutral. What do you think? Would love some feedback. Thanks

The first means of disconnect is considered the service. In your case the one on the pole.

Any panels fed from that would be considered sub-panels and should keep the grounds and neutrals separate and leave the bonding screw out.

The conductors between the service and sub-panel are considered feeders even if they are protected by an overcurrent device and should be run accordingly.

Good luck and stay safe!


Why did my angle grinder die? I was recently using a Bosch angle grinder but it had been 'sputtering' intermittently; and then during one session, taking the burrs off an edge, it slowed down and just stopped. Now it won't turn on. Does anyone know why this happened? Can it be repaired? Could it have been repaired or serviced before it finally died? I need to know if only for future reference.

The Intermittent "sputtering" is sign of a loss of power going into the motor windings. there is pretty much only two ways this happens, A: there is a short somewhere (plug, cable or switch) or B: the contact brushes are dead.

If mild shaking of the grinder added to the sputtering, I would say its the brushes. This is an easy fix, since you just need to get access to the brushes and change them. However, for many cases (with cheaper makes) its about the same cost to replace the unit.


Odor from shower drain Two year old house:   we are getting an occasional sewer odor from the shower drain after using the shower.

It appears that the water is occasionally siphoning out of the trap after using the shower.   This issue occurred under the following conditions: While showering and standing on the shower drain, water builds up on the pan. Upon removing my foot from the shower drain, a large amount of water flows down the drain.  I suspect this is when the seal is lost. I have to pour some water slowly down the drain to re-establish the trap, and then the odor is no longer detected.

There is no visible trap that one can see when you look directly into the drain, like there is in my other stall shower.  The water is directed out the side of the drain, so a short offset must have been installed upon the final install.

Any suggestions???

A very likely cause, and one that is not too difficult to fix, is a partial obstruction of that drain (or even another drain) downstream or a partial or full obstruction of a vent pipe.

Are there any slow drains in the house? If so, snake them out. Go on the roof and inspect your vent pipe(s) for any debris, animal nest, ice plugs, etc. Run a large snake cable down the shower drain itself too.


Hang blinds inside window frame on drywall only? I need to hang some standard window blinds (blinds that you pull upward by pulling the strings down) inside a few of my windows, but my walls are concrete stucco, and there is about a 3/4" gap between the drywall and the concrete on all of my windows.

I know that one option to hang the blinds would be to use a hammer drill and a masonry drill bit and screws to screw into the concrete, but that seems awfully obtrusive into the structure of my house just for some blinds. I'm wondering if it would work if I just attach the blinds straight to the drywall, using a shorter screw and drywall anchors? Or might the drywall not be able to handle the force of pulling on the string to open up the blinds?

There are 4 screws that hold each bracket up (one bracket on either end of the blinds), and so there would be 8 screws total holding the blinds up. Also, the blinds are 34.5" long, so it's not too much weight...right?

No, you cannot support your blinds with two pieces of paper, because that's all there is in drywall to resist the tension force pulling out or at an angle. The contained gypsum is strong to compression, you can stand on it if it's flat on the floor. But if you screw in and then exert force to pull the screw out, with very little force you'll either have the screw fall out, the drywall blow out, or the drywall screws attaching the drywall to the building structure will pop out the back side and the section of drywall will collapse. You need to install the blinds and other heavy objects to the building structure like studs or into concrete you have behind your walls.


fix for tall concrete steps I am buying a older home, the back porch steps are concrete and the top step that is just below the porch is extremely low is there a way to add a half step to avoid stepping down so long a distance?

One solution, if you have some space to work with at the foot of the concrete steps, is to add some new steps constructed with pressure treated lumber. Here is an example to convey the idea.

The unevenly spaced original steps are replaced with a new set that are evenly spaced from the ground level up to the top. In this example I show the use of 2x12 lumber to create both the steps and the stringers under the steps. You could place the stingers to the outside edges of the existing concrete structure or notch them as necessary to fit over the nose of the existing concrete steps.

Not shown in this concept drawing is a header that would be secured between the top ends of the stringers under the new step. The header would be flat against the riser of the existing top step. Fasteners through this into the existing concrete would secure the new timber structure.

Another advantage of this concept is that many old style steps do not have adequate landing area at the top to make it easy to negotiate opening a outward swinging screen/storm door. The added width of the top step can help with this problem.


Cold water coming out of hot tap - problem? I am not a plumber.

When I close the hotwater outtake valve from the hot water cylinder, I had expected that hot water water would stop flowing from the hot taps/faucets. i.e I expected no water.

However, cold water flows instead from the hot tap.  If I open the hot water line valve, then hot water again flows from the hot tap.

Does this indicate a problem somewhere or is that expected behaviour? If it is a problem - is it one that should be addressed or can it be safely ignored? This is a rental property where the landlord strongly desires to repair nothing.

I have recently installed a washing machine, never made the above test prior to installation so unsure of relevance.

The mixing valve of the washing machine can let cold water into the hot line. Also single valve lavatories and kitchen faucets. You can tell which one is allowing the flow by turning off the cut-off valve to that point of use.

EDIT

This is only occurring when the hot water line is shut off. It is not a fault condition. It happens all the time with the single handle sink mixing valves.


3-Way Light Switch Replacement Question I have a 3-way light switch that I am trying to replace upstairs. The light switch controls a hall light, and there are 2 other light switches that control the same light. I've already replaced the other 2 light switches with new ones & copying the setup. However, the 3rd switch is different than the other two.
Current Switch Setup

Two bundles of wires coming from the top of the box - each with a white, black, and red wire
The red wires are capped off together (different from the other two switches where the red wire was used)
One set of Black & White wires are connected to two terminals on the top of the current switch
Remaining Black & White wires are connected to two terminals on the bottom of the current switch

Since a 3-way switch has a different setup than the current switch, I'm wondering how I should wire the new switch? Cap off the white wires with a third wire that connects to the new Switch & connecting both black wires to the common & line terminals?
Thanks!

It is a 4-way switch. 2 travelers from each direction but no hot or switched hot. You have a 3-way on each b end.You can have any number of 4-ways in between.
The reds are carrying switched hot from one end to the fixture at the other end.


Why am I not getting power to outside outlet? Not getting power to outside outlet but have one outlet that has power on the outside checked the breaker it has not been tripped don't know what to do.

How do I fix it to work again? Maybe one month ago I had power, now only my front of the house works and back outside plug don't work both run on same breaker.

An outside outlet either is a GFCI receptacle or it's protected by an upstream GFCI receptacle.  For instance, the outlets on the outside of my house are protected by a GFCI outlet in my garage, so they're not even near each other.  Find, test and reset all the GFCI outlets in the house and see if that restores power.


Should tiles of "stones" be removed from the backing? We had a stone floor installed in our shower. The stones came on 1' x 1' "sheets". The installer kept the stones on the backing, and now you can clearly see lines in both directions where each 1' section meets.

I've seen other showers where the stones are randomly placed so they don't look like tiles.

Is it reasonable for me to have the installer re-do it, or is it normal for those tiles to be installed that way?

Here is a photo (ignore the wet part):

Mosaic stone tile is supposed to be installed still attached to its mesh backing. Otherwise it would be more efficient to go to a landscaping company and buy a truckload of river rock.

From what I can tell, there could be two causes for the 'line' effect you ended up with:

The mesh squares were poorly designed/manufactured with all the stones lining up to form a perfect edge along the sides. There's not much the installer could have done to counteract this.
The installer didn't take time to make sure the edges appeared natural when lining up the mesh squares. It may also be very difficult to tell this effect will occur prior to applying the grout.

My guess is that it's most likely a combination of these two factors.


Washing Machine Fills with water, then drains We have a front loading GE washing machine model GFWN1000. Recently, when running any of the wash cycles, it will fill with water like normal and then go ahead and drain without doing any washing.

I tested the spin functionality, and it works fine on a drain and spin cycle. The agitation functionality appears to be what is not happening.

I've checked that there's no siphoning, the load is balanced (by using a small load of shirts), and the pump filter is not clogged.

Any other ideas?

Also check the water fill hose. Some of them have a screen to trap particles. If the screen is dirty, it will slow the water flow as well causing the machine to "time out"  and go directly to drain.


When to use electrical tape rather than wire nuts? I was always under the impression that wire nuts created a better electrical connection than using electrical tape. I'm still under this impression and I think it is correct. However, I was taking apart a junction box in my basement last night and found a connection that piqued my interest. This is older wiring, so I was a little bit worried that maybe it was aluminum wiring, but it looks like it is copper. However I am unsure why there would be the coating /solvent / solder on here. The whole thing was then wrapped up in electrical tape. Is there a reason that this wasn't connected using a wire nut? It's not aluminum wiring, right?

I tend to agree with the comments

This is an inline splice
Whomever did this was covering solder

So, having said that...

Electrical tape is good for insulating wire. It cannot hold wires together. In this case, the solder is holding the wires, but I really wouldn't trust solder for electrical wires. Wires can get warmer when in use, which could weaken or break the solder.

Wire nuts involves twisting the wires together, meaning the wires hold themselves in position, The nut insulates the top and helps (somewhat) stop movement.

I would only use electrical tape on a wire that has had its insulation damaged.