Can upward-facing receptacles be installed flush to a kitchen island countertop? I have been digging around on the internet and NEC code but I am having trouble finding this.  Is it allowed by code to install upward facing outlets flush into a kitchen island countertop?  I am guessing no but I am hoping to get confirmation regardless.  I am redoing my kitchen and trying to decide where to put the outlets on the kitchen island.  I know the code for standard countertop space.  48", GFCI, tamper resistant, etc.  But the island seems to function differently as far as the code is concerned.
I did find this in 406.5(E):

(E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces. Receptacles, unless listed as receptacle assemblies for countertop applications, shall not be installed in a face-up position in countertops or similar work surfaces.
Where receptacle assemblies for countertop applications are required to provide ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel in accordance with 210.8, such assemblies shall be permitted to be listed as GFCI receptacle assemblies for countertop applications.

But this seems to be talking about actual kitchen counters and not the island so I am not sure if it applies.

The countertop issue has changed recently in the NEC code, so you need to find out which version is applicable for your jurisdiction (assuming you are subject to the NEC at all). In version 2011 and prior it was not permitted to install any face-up receptacles in an counter. Starting in 2014 (and the brand new 2017), you may install a receptacle in a counter only if it is specifically designed and listed for that application. (E.g. at random, this countertop pop-up receptacle).

The NEC does treat kitchen islands differently than regular countertop and peninsulas. You are required to have at least one receptacle. Normally outlets are required to be above the counter but for islands you are permitted to install the outlet below the counter (not more than 12" below), and there must be less than 6" overhang at that spot.

So if you are subject to NEC 2014 you could go with a pop-up receptacle. If you are on 2011 or older you must put one in the side somewhere. Under no circumstances are you allowed to install a regular outlet face-up.


How to protect corner of roof from rain? I have a two sided metal roof with a different grade on each side. The two sides do not meet at the center. The design incorporated vertical sky windows in the center of the roof which creates a hip joint that is only met by the steeper side of the roof. Therein lies rain leaks after years of neglect. Anyway, the original builder did not address the joints where the lower grade side meets the sky windows. They simply just left bare wood and a cavity on each side. The cavities are allowing tons of rain to get in.

Keep in mind that here in South Carolina we get severe winds and rain.

I have come up with possible solutions, but my ideas have inherent flaws. I have 10" x 10' of flashing to use and after searching the local home improvement store it seems flashing is my only choice. I want a solution that is permanent. If there was a product designed for situations like this, I'd go for that, but I have yet to find any.

Just bending some flashing around the corner seems great, but then I have vertical edges on the flashing to worry about. Furthermore, the exterior side panels are popping out about a half inch up to an inch all the way from the joint to the steeper roof side. So even with the flashing bent around the corner, rain can still get behind.

To further complicate the situation, the metal sheeting on the lower grade protrudes out from the edge about a foot and needs flashing as well to prevent rain from getting underneath. I was planning on sealing the flashing with caulking, but underneath the flashing for better results and to protect the caulking from the sun.

Please do not recommend relying solely on a sealant.

Go into the attic, if you have access, and clear insulation off the wet ceiling drywall.
Follow the leak back to the point at which it enters the roof.
Make a temporary patch with roofing tar and a piece of shingle or plywood.


Worth it to replace a freezer gasket? Our freezer gasket has gotten compressed, and is leaking cold air. My options are to buy a new refrigerator, buy a replacement gasket and replace it myself, or just live with it. I'd like to avoid buying a new fridge if possible; the fridge performs well otherwise. This is complicated by the fact that the freezer gasket is out of stock almost everywhere, and the places that have it are charging a premium price ($150-$200) for it. There is a substitute part recommended by the manufacturer (around $100) but it gets poor reviews; it does not seem to have been manufactured to the same standards of quality.
What would you recommend? Thanks in advance.

I replaced gaskets in my side-by-side (so two gaskets at one time, each in the $100 range, IIRC) a few years ago. Easy to do. Ridiculously expensive - my guess is that these are parts the manufacturers get in quantity for literally just a few $ each, but that is the case with a lot of replacement parts, and gaskets are a problem because they have to match the exact size - can't cut to fit.
In the end, comes down to age of the refrigerator/freezer because:
1 - The older it is, the more (relatively speaking) efficient a new appliance will be, so that the savings in energy costs will help to pay for the appliance.
2 - The older it is, the more likely that something else will break. Depending on the part, that may be something inexpensive and easy, or may be prohibitively expensive.
The brand/model has some bearing on this too. The equation on a Sub-Zero (if you would replace it with a similar appliance) is quite different from a run-of-the-mill GE or Whirlpool.


How can I locate the entrance of a wasp nest, and prevent wasps from entering? While I was out gardening, I saw a wasp fly through a small hole beside my basement window and into my basement. Then later, I saw five more enter through two other holes (two in part of my AC, three in my fireplace exhaust area.)

The exhaust area looks like this, but with four small holes in the metal plates where it attaches to the wall. That's where the wasps go in.

I taped up the basement hole as a temporary stop-gap. My questions are:

What should I use as a permanent seal?
Should I seal all the wasp entrance holes?

More importantly, what do they want and how do I get rid of them? I assume there's something in the house (food or a nest) that they're after. I can't find it, and don't know how to look for it.

I would like prevention (no more wasps coming) over protection (spraying all the entrance holes with bug killer) if possible.

It MAY have been a carpenter bee. They look like big bumble bees, and are good to pollinate plants. However they will do a great deal of damage with the galleries they build, gradually eating away a lot of wood. Don't let them get a foothold or you will truly see a great deal of damage done.

A carpenter bee will drill a hole that is perfectly circular. They like cedar, and go for places like fascia boards and soffits. Then they turn, and will drill galleries just under the surface of the wood.

A symptom of carpenter bees is that you have woodpeckers hammering on your house. They will find the galleries, and can hear the echo as they tap against a hollow spot.

If it looked like a wasp, then it still has a nest there. A wasp will not just wander into a hole. It has a reason to go in there.

No matter what it is, I would suggest dusting the hole with an insecticide. (Delta Dust seems to work well for me. I use a bulb to inject the dust into a hole. Carpenter bees are not aggressive, but then stand well back, in case these are more aggressive wasps or hornets.)

If you find carpenter bees tumbling from the nest, wait until they are all dead. The last nest I got rid of had 15 (LARGE) bees in it. I had to repeatedly dust it until they all were dead. Then you need to clean out the galleries (I use a Rotozip tool for this) and fill them with caulk or Bondo, as otherwise the bees will just re-inhabit next year. And if you just fill the entrance hole, a hungry woodpecker may still find that nest.

Once you manage to eradicate the nest, yearly spraying will prevent them from building new nests. They will just find other places to live, NOT in your home.


What are the differences between these types of small-dimension lumber? I have a project that needs smaller lumber, 1x4s, 1x3s, and 2x2s. This project is rough carpentry just a garage shelf. I have built one example of this shelf already. I did it over a year ago and I did not pay much attention when selecting materials. I have no idea what it cost or what I used! I want to be more careful this time.

When I look at the websites of the big-box stores to estimate my costs I see three types listed for this lumber and the approximate cost for an 8' length:

firring strips, $2
select grade, $10
pressure treated, $4

Why is there such a variation in price?

How can I tell which grade to get?

I assume that the select grade is straighter or has fewer defects. I expect the firring grade to be very rough and probably warped. Would the pressure treated be a compromise between cost and straightness?

There are a whole lot more types of boards than that! Even at the big box stores.

Furring strips come in limited sizes and are not meant to be structural or seen.

Pressure treated boards have a chemical applied to them under pressure that helps presserve the wood against moisture and insects. It's generally used outdoors or in direct contact with concrete otherwise it's not recommended to use pressure treated lumber. The appearance, quality and sizes match other framing lumber used for studs, juists, etc. It would be cheaper to use non-pressure treated lumber.

The better wood to use are appearance grade boards. They'll either indicate they are "appearance" grade or described as S4S (surfaced 4 sides). These will have a smooth surface on all 4 sides. They come in a variety of different sizes and species. The cheapest price is for something the box stores call "whitewood" which is whatever light colored wood they can get the cheapest at that time. Pine, spruce, fir, etc. I think Home Depot might be calling them "common boards" now.

The select grade boards are also appearance grade S4S boards but usually of better quality with fewer knots, hence the higher price. Not necessary for a garage cabinets.

That design you linked to looks like it would be expensive to build. If you want to save money and don't care about appearance you can save money by using a different design that uses 2x4's and 3/4" plywood for the shelves.


What sort of Power consumption should I be able to get down to when turning everything off My electricity consumption is higher than I would expect.
I have an old-school turn-y dial meter, so I can measure the power consumption of the house at any given time.
I tried going round and turning everything off.

All the lights, obviously.
All computers and other charging items.
All sockets.
All appliances. (incl. e.g. fridge and oven off at the socket)
Boiler controls (actually heating is gas, but I guess there's pumping and clocks, etc.)

Now I wouldn't expect to actually get to zero - I'd expect there to be some trivial things that don't have switches (things like hard-wired thermostat controls, or a door bell, etc. etc. etc.), but I'd expect to be able to get damn close. 5s of Watts, maybe?
The lowest I could get was around 0.17kW. Which seems much higher than I would expect?
How low would you expect to be able to get your power consumption if you could turn everything off at the plug?

House details:

UK, London.
3 bed, 2 story house.
Early 1950's construction.
Gas heating

Turning things off will not stop the power usage on many electronic devices, tv’s microwaves or anything with a touch pad to turn it on consumes power to keep the electronics alive watching for a button push.
Even power supplies to computers and cell phone chargers when not plugged in consume a small amount of power. How can you tell if your “wall wart” plug in transformer is using power? Feel it if it is warm or warmer than the surrounding area it is consuming power how much ??? It varies cable boxes computer routers are all things that add up. If everything is unplugged most homes can get down to 15-20w and these are hard wired transformers for door bells and furnaces. So you should be able to get down much further based on testing I Have done for customers.


Well water going out We bought our house 6 months ago, found out our well is 305 ft deep, our neighbords (200 yards away) don't have water issues so I know it can't be dry and their well is shallower than ours. If we run our water for 45 min we will have no water in the house at all. (Like wash clothes and water veg garden) then we have to wait an hour or so for the system to fullback up and we will have water again. we have replaced the pressure set on our pressure tank and checked to make sure we had water in the well and had a plumber come out and make sure we had no leaks (he couldn't tell us what was wrong because he doesn't do wells ). Any idea why we could be running out of water?

200 yards is a long way when it comes to drilled wells. I'm probably that far downhill of one that is filled to the top, and mine has a static level 100 feet down. Your neighbors may also use water differently than you do.

You appear to be overpumping your well (taking water out faster than it flows in) - You evidently have one piece of data (305 foot depth) but lack many others: depth of pump setting, information about the pump, flow-rate measured at time of drilling the well, static water level, diameter of well - some of those you may be able to gather, or find from the company that drilled the well in the first place.

On your own, you can shut off everything that uses water, wait a while (preferably several hours or more) to let the well fill to the maximum static level, and then fill buckets as fast as possible to try and determine what your effective storage capacity above the pump is. When the well stops, wait an hour and repeat, and THAT will tell you the effective refill rate:

If you pull 200 gallons the first time and 50 gallons the second, you are getting 50 gallons per hour (more or less - since time passes as you fill the buckets)  - which is less than one gallon per minute. That can be plenty of water if you don't overdo it (watering the garden can take a LOT of water, depending how you do that - changing to drip irrigation might cut down the rate of use a lot, .vs. sprinklers, say) and have reasonable storage capacity ( in this hypothetical example, the first 200 gallons, or 4 hours with of inflow) to allow for washing, bathtubs, and refilling toilets, etc.

If you require more flow than your well provides and any water conserving measures you are willing to take are not enough, you can have the well worked on by a well-drilling (or well-servicing - often the same, but not always) company in various ways - hydrofracking being perhaps the most trendy (pumping in high-pressure water to open up cracks in the rock to allow water to flow in faster) - unfortunately, it's usually fairly expensive and results are generally not guaranteed.


Switch or Fan going bad? So I have a ceiling fan in my office that is connect to a switchplte (With 2 switches). One for the fan and one for the light.

I noticed turning on the fan switch the light flickered for a second and then the fan stopped working....however the light still turns on/off.

How likely is it that the fan motor died, or can a switch go back on just 1 of the switches? Or are they actually likely separate switches?

Without a photo I am guessing that the switches are stacked in a single gang box in this case there are 2 witches on 1 yoke, of side by side they would be in a double gang box and be 2 separate switches. It is possible the switch or the wire connection failed, I usually check by spinning the fan and turning the switch on if it keeps going it is usually the fan start capacitor that has failed.


Is it OK to vent a first floor bathroom with a fan and a duct running through the basement? I have a bathroom on the first floor of a two-floor house where the popcorn ceiling has dilated and cracked open twice within a year, and some mold is always coming back next to the ceiling, so I need to install a fan there. That bathroom has heating in the ceiling (therefore I'm avoiding ceiling fans), so I want to make a hole on the upper part of one of its walls -- one that's shared with a closet located inside the bathroom -- and install a fan there to direct the air downwards with a duct through the basement, where it would be exiting near the dryer vent with the necessary ending to avoid condensation and being a way in for animals. Does that seem like a good plan?

Most wall mount ventilation fans are intended to go thru an exterior wall to a cap.

Your plan will work, if you make allowances to support the duct away from the wall a bit, to make the initial turn down.  Use smooth duct and metal tape for sealing duct sections.
update Be sure to slope all horizontal runs of the duct such that they will drain any condensation to the outside.


Deck Staining with a little light drizzle Can I apply deck stain if there is a slight drizzle of rain?

It depends.

Let's back up for a second and talk about how stain/waterproofing works. Wood is a porous material. When dry, it will soak up liquids like a sponge. In fact, it's that soaking/drying cycle of water that will eventually wreck your wood (and why waterproofing helps extend the life of exterior wood). Deck stains generally rely on that principle. The wood soaks the stain (or waterproofing) and thus it penetrates into the top layers of wood (latex relies a bit less on this, and tends to coat the outside a bit more).

If your wood is wet, even a little, it interferes with this because the wood has absorbed some water, and thus the pores that would fill with stain are filled with water instead. If your stain is oil-based, it just won't penetrate as well. If it's latex, the water will wreck your finish because latex is designed to break up in water.

The real question isn't about drizzle, it's about how wet your wood is. If we're talking about one of those wintery "fine mist" drizzles, the wood might stay relatively dry enough you can still apply stain. If we're talking about anything heavier, I would say probably not.

Either way, I wouldn't risk it. Just wait for a dry day. Eliminates any question of how well the stain will work.


Why can't I put a load between hot and the ground line? Normally the load goes between hot and neutral line.

Since neutral is grounded why can't I put a load between hot and the ground line?

Because the grounding system is a safety system, and is designed to only carry current during a fault.  If you use a grounding conductor as a grounded (neutral) conductor, you'll have current flowing on water pipes, faucets, appliance frames, metal electrical enclosures, and anything else that's grounded.

Doing this could lead to property damage, injury, and/or death.


Installing a sub panel to a GE split bus panel I want to install a sub panel to my GE split bus panel. The diagram indicates that I could replace the two full sized 2-pole breakers (2 inch wide each) on the upper left with three compact 2-pole breakers (1 inch wide each). The diagram indicates that this is not an option on the top right.

I would use 30 A and two 40 A compact 2-pole breakers for the dryer, a/c condensing unit, and the range. I would use the existing 50 A breaker on the top right for the sub panel, unless I should go larger.

EDIT
On the right from top the 120 V branch circuits are: 15 A -- bdrm 2,3,4 E. wall receptacles, 2 closets single bulbs, 20 A (switched off) for dishwasher but not installed, 20 A garage receptacle, lights, door opener, 20 A ceiling fans, lights, 20 A GFCI kitchen counter, 20 A clothes washer, 20 A refrigerator and 1 kitchen receptacle not near sink

No one has posted an answer for this question, so I thought I would take a stab at it and remember some of it is more about code intent rather than written law.

First, you have a split bus panel. This panel was developed because of a loophole in the early code that stated you could have 6 means of disconnect to disconnect totally from a service (the 6 disconnect rule). So manufacturers decided that instead of paying for an expensive(?) main breaker, they would instead create a panel with six means of disconnects, diversifying the load and using lower priced smaller breaker for disconnecting purposes. Like I said it was a loophole, which was caught by the NEC and then immediately corrected. That is why there is a very small time line where these panels were used, because they are now illegal.

Now that you have a brief history let's get to your question. You panel was installed when it was legal to do so, and it can stay that way under the grandfather clause. Since it was a generic panel, the installer could have used all of its capacity (6 disconnects) but didn't. You now want to upgrade your panel to its full capacity by adding breakers.

Now here is where the intent of the code affects the answer. When you remove and add breakers to this panel, you are modifying a panel. When you modify a panel you must bring it up to the updated code and if you can't do that with the existing panel, you should replace it. In other words the panel was installed during a time where it was legal to do so, but you can't "grandfather" in an upgrade.

Now I know this could be a big discussion and a lot of it depends on each persons interpretation of the NEC.  I will say it really doesn't matter what any ones opinion is, including mine. The only one who's opinion and interpretation counts is the AHJ. That is what they are there for, and that is what they do. Most people hesitate to go the the AHJ because they fear they will rule without considering cost or other installation problems, and they will probably want to inspect the work after it is done. Then again that'is what they are paid to do.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Did unfinished attics serve a functional purpose in old houses? I do a lot of work with detached, wood-framed houses built in the United States between 1850 and 1920. Almost all of them have a walk-up attic that was not finished originally. In some cases the attics are now finished and used as living or working space, but it's clear (based on the finishing materials and styles) that the finishing was done well after the house was originally built.

Most of these attics offer significant floorspace (usually at least 500 square feet), they were built using rafters (so there is plenty of open space inside the attic) and the attics are easily accessible from the other levels of the houses using staircases.

This leaves me wondering why the original builders/homeowners would not have finished their attics in order to make them spaces that you could use for living. If you have all that space sitting at the top of your house, why would you not have spent a little more time or money to make it a conditioned, finished space like the rest of the house?

Is there a functional reason why attics were not finished in old houses? Maybe it has to do with lack of insulation, for instance, so they needed the attic as a buffer zone between finished spaces and the roof? Or was it purely a cultural thing (maybe they wanted the attic as storage space)?

I'm asking this mostly out of curiosity, but also because I'm thinking of finishing the still-unfinished attic in my 1903 house, so I'm wondering if I'd be creating any functional issues by turning it into finished space.

Not functional, but cost. Roofs have slopes to drain water and slough snow. It's the nature of their design that there's a hollow below. Since the finished space is relatively small, and since it costs more to build a floor robust enough to carry  people and furniture, and since it costs more to finish the space and insulate and add (larger) windows, and since the space was useful as storage without being finished, and since people back then were happy with less space and fewer things, they didn't bother.

An indirect benefit to an attic, as opposed to a completely open roof cavity, was that it didn't need to be heated. Lower ceilings keep heat down where the human inhabitants are.

Obviously there's some energy efficiency to be gained by having enclosed attics above a ceiling in an uninsulated home, but that's not the primary reason attics were built. Drainage (and to a lesser extent, style) were the main drivers.


What is a proper way to tape a 6” round hole from can light? I removed some can lights and I need to patch the holes. Since I already had round pieces of drywall from new cuts, I used them to plug the holes using furring strips. I have several of those to do.
Can I tape these patches with mesh side by side, until it covers the whole area, or should I cut new square holes, re-patch, and apply paper tape (basically a square butt joint)?
What would give me the best result as far as seamless finished texture?
Am I asking for trouble (hairline cracks) by using fiber mesh here?

First smooth out those edges and make sure they're flat. No need to cut out squares and re-plug. Then use five or six equal lengths of paper tape to tape the area. I like to butt joint the sides of the tape and not overlap it. I also wouldn't use the mesh tape because if you're not careful you'll see the mesh imprint on the finished wall. Be prepared to do a lot of finishing touch up because ceiling flaws are easy to see.


What Good and Affordable Alternative Power Source Would You Recommend? I am woking on a startup (read: using my computer always). 80% of the time, I generate my own electricity with a petrol/gas generator.

On new years day, the Nigerian government increased the price of petrol/gas by 120%, instantly doubling the cost of my electricity in addition to other costs. Therefore, making it really hard to afford working with my computer as often.

What is needed

I would love suggestions on affordable alternatives for generating reliable renewable electricity. I am told solar is expensive, but I understand that is if you are trying to generate serious power.

Of course I could Google, but I wanted something that has actually been used by a member of this community. It will spare me the cost on taking gambles on what I see online.

Good and affordable are both relative to many local factors. Your best bet is to look around you and see what fuel source is abundant. You'll also want to think about how often/long that resource is present during high power use periods as you'll need to store the power for later use which can rack up the price.

There are areas of Michigan that are some of the cloudiest around and so solar may not be a good choice for the amount of radiation present. Add in the shorter days in winter and you compound it. However other areas are close to wind tunnels during the day (lake air movement) and so wind could be a good solution since power use would be lower in the middle of the night when the winds die down, saving storage costs.

If you are surrounded by fast food joints changing your generator to run on frying oil or biodiesel may pay for itself quickly with the low cost fuel supply.

Once you decide on what is locally abundant, then turn to google (or this board) to see if there are low-cost DIY options or suppliers in your area. Importing equipment might wipe out any potential savings, though if you are doing this as a business expense you may be able to write off some things or look around for grants/rebates for "green businesses".


What amperage panel do I need for a hair salon? What amperage panel do I need for a hair salon with 14 stations all of them drawing 16 amps each at any given time?  (1800 watts / 110v = 16.36 amps ?)

By my logic we will need a minimum  16 * 14 = 224 amps capable electrical panel?

What is really confusing is the fact that the electricians I contact in NYC all seems to say the best I can get is 200 amp single phase or a 3 phase 100 amp connection. The current connection is 100 amp single phase I think.

I realize there are water heaters etc that can utilize all 3 phases and draw lesser current from each phase, but how does it work for hair dryers for example? Do we just assign say 4 stations per phase etc so that we can get so that we can collectively get 300 amps in theory from a 3 phase 100 amp panel? Is this possible?

The usual way for an electrician or engineer to size a service is to do a load calculation that takes into account everything on the service - not just the receptacles at the stations but also the microwave in the break room, the water heater, the lights, etc.  The load calculation takes into account which loads are likely to be on for long periods continuously and "diversity."  In this context diversity means taking into account that you won't turn everything on at once.

I am a little surprised at what the electricians are telling you but if they're saying the same thing they're probably right.  The size service available to you could depend on a lot of things - the size of the conduit that feeds your space, power company rules, utility transformers, local NYC electrical regulations, etc.


Joist hangers to use for rough cut 2x8 (2 3/4" x 8 3/4")? I'm looking for the right size joist hangers for my project. I have an old house with rough cut oversized joists and can't seem to find a joist hangers that will work. I'm nailing into a 2x10 ledger.

The joist actual dimensions are: 2 3/4" w x 8 3/4" h

I'm leaving my original answer below in case anyone is trying to hang a 1.75" board, but the question does clearly state 2.75", so, here is another option.

They do make joist hangers that are meant to hang doubled-up joists.  These will be wide enough to handle 3 1/8" (hanger dimensions are here and have 1/8" of play for the doubled up joists that should be 3").

The extra 3/8" of width will be divided to 3/16" on either side, which shouldn't be a major concern.  You could cut some 1/4-3/8" shim stock if you're worried about the slop.  Strong-Tie also makes "rough sawn" hangers, but they measure 2" and 4" respectively (single and double hangers), so I think the standard double hanger is best here.

ORIGINAL ANSWER

The only thing that comes to mind immediately are decorative joist hangers used for decks and pergolas such as these.

These are made for decorative cedar that doesn't conform to the 1.5" standard that all framing lumber uses.  If you look at the specifications for these particular hangers, they will accept lumber that is sized from 1.5" to 1.88".  Your 1.75" fits nicely in that range.  A standard joist hanger will only accept 1.5", as you have figured out.

Now, that one brand is just a random example that I have never used but your local home store and other online retailers should have similar products.  You do need to get more detailed specs on the hanger you choose to determine its structural ability.  These are not purely decorative - they do need to hold together pergolas and the like, but I am not sure if they are as strong as the typical galvanized joist hangers that are normally used.


Can I use individual wires from romex bundle? I am wiring three overhead florescent lights in my unfinished basement and I need 14/3 because of where the switch is located. The wiring already present between the fixtures is 14/2. I have a length of leftover 14/2 romex. Can I remove the sheathing and use each individual wire?

Short answer: NO

You may be able to use individual wires taken from a non-metallic cable (Romex is a brand) within a fixture, but not between fixtures or switches.

NEC 300.3(B) requires that:

  All conductors of the same circuit ... shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or cord [with certain exceptions that do not apply here].

If you give us a diagram of your fixtures and switches, we may be able to suggest a solution.


Can you attach a post base to a brick patio? Can you attach a lumber post base to a brick patio, just as like as to a concrete one?

http://img.ehowcdn.com/default/ehow/images/a06/rt/qv/build-above-grade-patio-800x800.jpg

Is an additional concrete footer needed?

No. You won't get enough support. The bricks are just laying on the ground, held together by mortar. You need to cut out some mortar joints to open up room to dig a hole for the post. When done, re-mortar the bricks (you'll have to cut some to fit) back around the post.


Changing out stacked Washer dryer I currently have a 12 year old stacked washer/dryer, and have been looking into a combo unit washer dryer. I understand each unit has different ventilation requirements, is this possible to change to a combo unit from a stacked unit? Or would that require significant piping/ventilation work?
Thanks

We can't answer that merely from what you have said.

Generally washing machines fall into two types:  normal types, which take hot and cold water connections; and heating types, which take cold-only and need more electrical power because they heat water internally.   The latter is more expensive but means you don't need to plumb a hot water line.

You can run a normal washer without a hot water line, but it won't clean clothes as well.

Generally dryers fall into two types:  Vented dryers, which have a vent to the outside.  This is how they remove water vapor from clothing - it's driven out in the air.  This also lets them dispose of natural gas exhaust. Or condensing dryers, which remove water using an internal dehumidifier-type device - instead of a vent pipe, they need a water drain connection.  Condensing dryers don't have a vent, so they can't be gas.

You can't run a vented dryer without a vent. Seriously, you do not want to do that.  You'll be putting gallons of water into the air everytime you run it, which will condense in bad places and rot out your home or spread mold.

Some stacked or partnered washer/dryers also share power supply.  For instance one common type uses a 240V/30A connection for the dryer, then the washer gets its electricity from the dryer.  This means you don't need a separate power hook-up for the washer.

In some multi-unit developments, the developer selects washer-dryers which are a) condensing, b) heating, and c) shared power supply.  This means they don't need to connect a dryer vent, hot water, or 120V power, which saves so much on the building that it justifies the more expensive washer-dryer.  If you're in such a building, you need to be aware of this and order compatible washer-dryers.


Whole House Surge Protector connection I am interested in installing a whole house residential surge protector. I don't have enough room in my main panel inside my house. I am thinking of buying one of these uints and installing somewhere near the main 125 amp breaker next to the electrical meter, since it is about 30 feet from the main panel inside and I hear it is best to install closest from the mains.

What items would I need to install (Example: weatherproof breaker box, additional breakers, wire guage, etc..)?

How would I wire to the mains?

Whole House Surge Protector

Main breaker (Outside next to electrical meter)

Service Panel

You'll have to install it in what you put in for a replacement subpanel, unless you want to do concrete work

Here's the rub -- that meter-main of yours is basically a boat anchor.  You can't realistically replace it (conduits set into concrete act as a practical bar to that even if you got all your other ducks in the row with the utility pulling power, getting the permit needed, and finding a replacement that'd fit the space available), and you can't expand from it either as it only has room for that one main breaker, never mind having to screw around with the concrete just to get at a usable knockout.

The good news is that installing the surge protector into the subpanel will still work well enough -- it just needs to be near the breaker feeding it, and that breaker should be as close to the primary (would say "main" but that's not right in a setup like yours) set of bussing as possible.

If you're up for chiseling out concrete (carefully!)

In order to install the SPD at the meter-main, you'll have to:

Chisel away enough concrete to access a 1/2" KO on the lower right of the box and a notch extending about 6" out to the right from that KO, then make the KO in the lower right of the box using a KO punch set since your box doesn't have a twistout there.
Fit a 1/2" prefab RMC elbow to the knockout with a locknut so that the free end points out (beats field bending, huh?).
Install a NEMA 3R "spa panel" enclosure (BR24L70RP if you're staying in BR) to the concrete behind it so that the prefab elbow goes in the twistout on the back of the enclosure, and fit a ground bar (GBK5 for BR) into the space provided in the enclosure.  Make sure the bonding screw or strap has been removed from this panel.
Disconnect the existing wires from the breaker lugs and neutral lug and land them on individual 3-way insulated setscrew connectors ("Polaris connectors"), torquing the connector lugs to spec.
Use short lengths of aluminum wire matching the existing feeder wire to pigtail the connectors to the existing lugs, torquing all connections to spec.
Take 8AWG THWN (black/black/white) and pull it through the short elbow, attaching them at one end to the corresponding mechanical splices and at the other end to the appropriate lugs in the new mini-subpanel, torquing the connections to spec.  Why 8AWG? It can handle 50A at 75°C, 3 8AWG wires will fit down a 1/2" conduit, and we're legal to use this because we are following the 240.21(B)(1) case of the NEC feeder tap rules.  Note that the feeder tap rules require the wire to be in conduit -- a cable wiring method simply won't fly here.
Install a 50A 2-pole breaker (BR250 for BR) into the spa panel enclosure.
Fit the CHSPT2ULTRA into the knockout on the bottom of the spa panel.  Land the hot wires on the breaker lugs, the neutral wire on the existing neutral bar, and the ground wire on the ground bar you fitted (it's fine that it's the only wire there).

(And this is why I recommend installing the surge protector into the new subpanel -- it's far easier that way.)


Electric outlet only has 2 wires and no power, how to replace? I am wondering how I am going to replace this outlet.

It is dead as I've tested for power and got nothing.

It has 2 wires only. Please help, TY.

What you need is a wire tracer.  There are two types: one for live wires, the other for dead wires.  Your local tool lending library may be able to help.

It's quite possible you won't find the other end of the wire, or that it was disconnected in some other renovation.  It might drop into the basement, or head in some crazy direction.

And while K&T is good stuff:
https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/20279/5960
this one may not be worth saving.  At a minimum you'd want to put new shrink wrap on the wires through the metal box, and use emery paper to brighten up the copper.  Then put a two prong outlet in.


How to regulate current to my house What can I do to protect my whole-house from power surges and outages?
I have two problems: unregulated voltage coming to my house, and my lights flicker when the electric on-demand hot water heater is being used.
 I want to fix both of these issues with one solution.

I live in Boquete, Panama, where there are frequent brown-outs, power surges, and lightning strikes within a few hundred meters of my house.  Usually, the power is only cut off for 5-300 seconds at a time, but it happens about 5-20x/week.  I have two floors.  Each floor has a 220V Titan on-demand electric hot water heater. Currently, we're renovating the lower floor to be 3 studio vacation rentals, each with their own private bath.  They are unoccupied for now, but they will be occupied starting within 30-60 days so I'm hoping to find a solution before then.  I have two UPS devices for my internet routers, but I don't want to buy 20+ more of these so that all the high quality appliances and things are protected from surges and outages.  Besides, this would not protect the lighting.

I understand just enough about electricity to be dangerous- I've wired an off-grid solar powered cabin I lived in for 4 years. So, any help is appreciated.

Should I get a battery bank and inverter, to setup in-line between the utility and my house, so the utility charges the battery bank, and my house draws directly from the batteries?

Should I only do this for the 220V hot water heaters, and set them up on a separate utility line? (this would be very difficult, because my house is 100% concrete and I don't have the original plans so I have no idea where the wiring is run.  Setting up gas hot water heaters is not an option- the water lines are inside, and I can't set up a gas heater indoors.

Ideally, there is some sort of whole-house surge protection with built in small battery bank to supply power for brief periods of time when there is an outage, that I can have installed where the utility power supply enters my house, that can also regulate 220V so the lights no longer flicker when the electric hot water heater is being used.  Is this possible?  What would it look like? What are my options?  I'm asking for design advice, not specific brands.

I'm not interested in the answer: "Ditch those water heaters".  Come on, this isn't impossible!  For all of you living in first world countries with high power bills and cheap tank heaters... please remember that I am not in your situation.  My electricity is $10/mo for a 4K sq ft house because Panama is 80% hydro power, and I can't get tank heaters here.  I really want to use these tankless heaters (they're heavenly) and have reliable power, and I'm willing to pay thousands for it if need be.

What are my options? I can order anything online and have it shipped here from the US.  I have a local electrician who is very experienced and capable of modifications.  The only problem is that everyone here just says 'it's not a big deal, just deal with it the way it is' and nobody knows of any locally available solutions (there are solar pv stores nearby though).  However, at the same time, many people have had to replace their $2k+ refrigerators, washing machines, etc due to dangerous surges.. so, we're not okay with that.  He said if I find a solution then he'll install it.  Help!  Thanks in advance.

Your idea for a large battery backed up UPS that is charged by the power company would be the best solution (most ups systems do provide lightning protection). The size of the inverter would need to be based on your peak load plus a safety factor to prolong the system life. The battery system really would need to be 2-3x to prevent damaging the batteries during discharge I have seen large forklift batteries used in a similar case but longer discharge cycles were needed. In some cases changing the size/ type of main panel can reduce load based flickering, installing a bolt to bus panel where the breakers are bolted directly to the bus reducing some of the voltage drops in the system. The last part would be to request upsized conductors from your service point and possibly change from a conventional meter to CT meter. CT meters take a field reading off of full size bolted conductors where standard meters are like big outlets that the meter plugs into and cause voltage drops, these conversions to bolted connections may help quite a bit I have seen it reduce problems in a medium sized load center on a commercial service.


How to remove handles from this faucet I am trying to replace the washer on this leaky faucet. There are no visible screws or removable caps anywhere on this faucet. I have already tried to pry the top part of the handle off and tried to to turn the top part CCW while holding the base still to no avail. I have also tried pulling really hard.

Does anyone have this same model or know something I don't? Any help is appreciated.

It is possible that the lower skirt just below the faucet handle is threaded onto part of the fixture that comes up from the bottom side of the sink. Have you tried rotating the skirt to see if it would untread?


Can I install T&G Bamboo floor over a sagging subfloor? The subfloor dips about an inch on one axis across the middle of the room. Structurally, I think this is due to old and rectified foundation issues. Since the dip is just 1-dimensional, can I install the flooring so the T&G bend with it? Or should I pull the entire subfloor up and level it at the joists?

I certainly would not lay the flooring down over an unprepared floor. I have done this and the flooring ended up splitting, cracking and making noise. I would reinforce the flooring and make it level with floor filler prior to laying the new flooring.


What are these beams for in my loft? I have very good building experience but in a house we bought recently I have been wondering what the heck to do with my loft. Initially its converted to a mini workshop / storage

The max height is 1.8m from the floor boards to the centre of the roof. I stand up straight just about. The previous owners laid down some off cut planks to make the loft walkable.

Ideally I would like to lay proper pieces of plywood and make the entire central area flat so that I can get in the loft, sit on a chair with wheels and wizz from one end to the other.

Problem is these weird beams that run left, centre and right of the roof structure. OK- initially you think yea these are support beams- but they do not lie within the masonry structure on either end- and are really badly joined in the middle- as if temporary. These beams are screwed ONTOP of the actual support trusses that all the planks are screwed on to and the ceiling batons are right at the bottom.

Half of the loft with the joined "temporary" beams shown.

A closer look at the central beams- You see that they are screwed on top of the support trusses and nothing else touches them.

Another close up at an angle of something like 45 degrees

Apologies for my terrible representation here.. but its just for illustration.

RED - The central beam that is top most
BROWN - The cross load bearing trusses that lie on top of masonry in the supporting structure. I can stand on these they will not collapse.
GREEN - The house perimeter- masonry load bearing walls

I am not interested in removing the left and right beams as they are in a tight spot. I will build cupboards there later on or something.

I know from experience I can remove this beam with out the house collapsing. But, I wanted to confirm it here with other experienced people,  as I have never seen anything like this and I do not know why its there and if it serves any structural purposes.

Can I remove this beam (the 2 beams joined up)?

I think they're there for stabilizing the brown beams/joists.  Typically, a loft is unused space with no floor.  Between the joists, there is insulation supported by drywall or other material depending on the age of the house (as in pic 2 and 3).

Typically one would put in blocking between joists to stop horizontal flexing and torsion.

Since an attic is usually unused space, I think someone took a short cut and just screwed the 2x4s to the tops of the joist. (Significant labour savings!).  Your flooring probably makes it unnecessary from a flexing point of view, but you still have a torsion problem (especially since you're now loading the joists).

When you go to make improvements,  block the joists properly, but I wouldn't worry in the short term.


Miter saw advice and recommendations I'm buying a power miter saw sometime this week; and early birthday present to myself. What should I consider and what brands do you all recommend? I'm not a contractor, web guy by trade, and do mostly weekend projects.

There are a few different things to look at:

Compound vs. Non-Compound - This refers to the kind of cuts you can make with it.  A compound saw can both swivel and tilt.  A non compound saw usually just does one or the other.  Almost all miter saws are compound, and that is probably what you want.
Sliding vs. Non-Sliding - A sliding saw will let you cut bigger boards (2x10, 2x12, etc) but will be more expensive and quite a bit bulkier.  I have a sliding saw, but honestly find that I hardly ever use the sliding feature.  How often you use it will depend on how often you work with larger boards (2x8, 2x10, 2x12)
10" vs. 12".  A 10" saw is good enough for most work and less expensive, but can only cut up to about a 2x6 in a single cut (unless it's a sliding saw).  A 12" saw will cut 2x8 boards in a single cut.  You can also cut 4x material easily on a 12" saw, while a 10" saw won't quite make it all the way through.

My suggestion - if you plan on using it mostly for trim or framing work, buy a 10" compound non-sliding saw.  If you plan to use it a lot for decking or outdoor work with larger boards or 4x material, get a 12" saw, maybe sliding if it's in your budget.

As for quality items, here are a few things to look at:

Does the miter gauge look accurate? Is it easy to read?  If you adjust the saw, can you easily set it to within one degree of accuracy?
Once you adjust the angle and set it, how tightly does it lock in?  If it feels "sloppy" you'll have a hard time getting nice cuts.

Brand wise, DeWalt makes some really nice ones, as does Hitachi.


Should I use an epoxy finish on a high traffic hardwood floor? We tried refinishing our very old hardwood floors last year but they haven't held up that well.  The floor receives very heavy walking traffic.  Perhaps two coats was not enough?  We are thinking about just buffing the floor and throwing down another coat of Synteko.  Additionally, a friend recommended that we use a two-part epoxy to cope with the heavy traffic our floor receives.  Does this sound like a good idea?

Epoxy solutions in general last longer than polys.  They do come with residential drawbacks too in that they are harder to patch and don't handle temperature differences as well.

I personally have used bona industrial for high traffic areas.  I would really look into the industrial products so you don't feel the need of yearly upkeep.


How do we fit a pedestal sink top onto a vanity base? We want to put a rectangular pedestal sink top onto a wooden vanity (yet to be built). We won't be using a solid surface or laminate product on top, but instead want the sink to slightly overhang the cabinet on sides and front, creating an 'apron' look - the end result being that the cabinet itself will be slightly narrower and less deep then the sink top. (I want to clarify that I am not describing the look of a 'floating' sink on top of a countertop).

What is the best way to do this project correctly, and what are the considerations for making the sink-to-vanity attachment have a finished look?

This is not a trivial project, as apron front sinks have straight edges on the front sides and bottom.

2 cleats should span under the sink to support the weight.  They should be sturdy enough to make the cradle, perhaps 1x3 or 1x4, oriented like joists.  You could reinforce the cabinet sides with the same size boards laid flat and extending to the cabinet bottom (like posts).  Using two pocket screws on each end of the joist would give you a bit of adjustability. Just don't drive them home until you're happy with the positioning.

The side cuts and top cuts should be back cut to make final shaping easier.  Making a foam template will be helpful and easier than sanding the top.  Blue or pink EPS foam at 1 inch should fit your needs.  A jig saw, belt sander, and perhaps a rotary tool ( like Dremel) will be most useful.

Final affixing of bowl to top can be done by setting in a bead of sealant-caulk along top and front and perhaps a dot on each joist.


popcorn ceiling in old building but ceiling looks new- asbestos worries My apartment building is very old. It was built in the 1960s. I want to mount my projector in the ceiling but it is a popcorn ceiling, and an old building, so I am worried about asbestos. Although the building is old, there exists a few new (within 5 years) ceiling lights and the kitchen cabinets and appliances are updated. I attached a picture of the ceiling, it looks new. There is already a area that someone at one point patched up. Based on these circumstances, I am fairly certain there is no asbestos. However I have associated the words 'popcorn ceiling' with 'asbestos' so I am here hoping someone else can offer an opinion. I know I can get it tested, but is it necessary? Also, I imagine the test is only effective if I sample the entire depth of the wall? What if they just covered an old layer of wall with new drywall?

There's no way for anyone to say if there's asbestos in it by looking at it. You'd need to get it tested.

Is it a worry? Probably not. It's not friable in this state, so poses no real risk. It's only if you disturb it that it becomes an issue. For the amount you'd have to disturb to mount a projector I'd not lose sleep over it. If you must work with it a little bit, wet it down good before cutting/drilling (spray bottle--cuts down on dust), wear an appropriate mask (make sure it's asbestos rated), and get an appropriate filter for your shop-vac (also asbestos rated).


How do I wire up a 4-wire dimmer switch when I only have two 2 wires from the wall? I'm replacing (yet again) my bathroom dimmer switch. The old switch had 3 wires: 2 black and one green. The two black wires were attached to the wires coming out of the wall and the green wire was attached to nothing. The new switch has 4 wires: black, red, red/white striped, and green. Can I attach the new switch somehow? If not, what would you recommend when I only have 2 wires (circa 1930) coming out of the wall (besides rewiring my house)?

Not sure what make and model dimmer you're trying to install, so I'll describe a common installation. Wire colors could vary, depending on manufacturer.

Black is the common terminal, and is attached to the ungrounded (hot) conductor feeding the switch.
Red is the switched lead (or a traveler in a 3-way installation), and is attached to the switched hot going to the light.
Red with white is a traveler, used for 3-way installations. In your situation, you'll just cap this one off.
Green is ground,  and is attached to the grounding conductor.

From Lutron Luméa® Installation Guide

If you don't have grounding conductors in your home, you could install a GFCI breaker and you'll be code compliant.

Lutron devices typically have a red and a red/white stripped wire, whereas Leviton has two red wires.


How directional is LED strip lighting (with a diffuser)? Background:  My pantry (~ 2' deep, 4' across, 8' tall) consists of a bunch of shelves that are 1/2 the depth of the pantry.  It has one of those old white pull chain porcelain fixtures on the ceiling with a bare light bulb.  I have an 800 lm LED bulb in it and it satisfactorily illuminates all the shelves.  I think the bulb is pretty much omni directional so light bounces all over and given the shelves don't extend the full depth, it allows everything to get illuminated.

Well, that bulb is pretty ugly.  I could replace it with a globe fixture, but I wonder if strip lighting would yield something cleaner (plus, it's "cool" and maybe I could use that extra space if the bulb wasn't there).

I'd like to mount the strip on the ceiling just above the door (out of sight).  My concern is how directional the lighting is.  I don't want to mount multiple strips pointing in different directions because that would probably be too bright (unless I dimmed) and it wouldn't be that "clean".  I found one post that mentioned a 140 degree angle coming from the LEDs which I think would be OK, but I think that's without a diffuser.  I'm pretty sure I would want a diffuser to avoid shadows (and it should help reduce directionality of the light).  However, to use a diffuser, I think I would need a housing/channel.  I'm worried the sides of the channel would direct the light too much, unless I can find one with a very low profile (low sides).

I don't want to mount strips down each side--I have stuff hanging off the sides that would block the light.

I thought about strips on the underside of each shelf, but they're so packed with stuff, the lights would be blocked and/or it would reduce storage capability.  Also concerned about glare from lights shining directly in my eyes.

Does anyone have any experience with this?  I'd like to avoid trial and error.

Thanks,

Jim

I just did the same thing a few months ago and it turned out great. I routed a 1/2" channel at the back of the shelves so the bulbs wouldn't be seen.  The color of the walls is important as well.  You don't want to reflect the light, but you don't want to necessarily absorb all of it.  A few coats of a flat or eggshell saturated relatively dark color work well.


How to tighten loose door handle I have a loose door handle. There is a bolt at the bottom which I've tried to tighten up, but it doesn't make any difference.
Not all of it is loose, the part attached to the door is very tight.
Only the bit the green arrow is pointing to in the photo is loose.
Any ideas?
Many thanks]1

If you unscrew the metal ring, it will expose three or four screws - check those screws are tight. If necessary, replace the screws with slightly thicker ones and/or pack the screwholes using something like matchsticks.

own work CC BY-SA 3.0 redgrittybrick

Those screws tend to work loose - I just went and tightened up mine! In my case the original fitter was a bit  parsimonious with the screws - I might add more screws in the unpopulated hole positions later.

The set-screw/grub-screw on the underside of the handle, secures the handle to the spindle -- an unseen brass or steel bar of square cross section that passes through the door and thus through the mortice-latch mechanism. Tightening this set-screw is insufficient to make the handle feel firm and properly secured.

If the transverse grip of your handle is loose on the visible shaft, you may need to replace the whole handle. Dismantling the whole thing and taking it apart may reveal a fixable cause of the problem.


Modify dishwasher water inlet valve or harness Original water inlet valve electrical harness hookup

Replacement water inlet valve electrical harness hookup

Male connector/harness

Inlet valve with female connector

Dishwasher model number etc.

My dishwasher has a slow leak coming from the water inlet valve (water constantly drips into the dishwasher).  I ordered a replacement water inlet valve (W10158389).  The replacement is identical to the original in all ways except three.  The female end on the inlet valve is reversed (rotated 180 degrees), is gray instead of green and worst of all has a slight different shaped and so the harness wont snap in.

Photo one is of the female connector on the original valve - note it looks like a “T”.

Photo two is the female connector on the replacement valve - note it looks like a “l”.

I imagine that I can fix this problem by simply breaking off the tab on the replacement valve or on the male end of the harness.

Breaking the tab will allow the electrical harness to snap in but I am worried that the polarity might be switched.

I have contacted the parts manufacturer (repair clinic - the official parts supply house for kitchen aid dishwashers) who confirmed it was the correct part and who mentioned that parts can change slightly over time (this dishwasher is from ~2008).  I have also contacted a seller of whirlpool parts (whirlpool makes this part) on Amazon who also confirmed this is the correct part and that all the modern replacement parts of model #W10158389 will be identical.

Any advice on how to modify this part would be most welcome.

I would remove the existing plug off the old one and fit it to the new one so it assembles correctly.

You should be able to identify which wire is where when comparing the old and new.

Edit update:
Remove the male plug on the harness.
Extend wires as necessary.
Purchase two crimp-on (insulated) terminals that fit the new pump, fit and test.


Gas water pipe corrosion.... Can It be fixed? My gas water heater pipes have corrosion at the copper to galvanized metal connection. Can it be fixed, and if so with what and how?

Are you sure that’s galvanized? Everything else (I know it dirty and hard to see) looks like black pipe. Which makes sense. But galvanized and gas is a huge no no. If it’s a water pipe, then turn off water heater and everything else and unthread that piece of pipe and get a new piece from a home improvement store.


Mysterious 40v multimeter reading on AC appliance chassis (US 120v) I'm an electronics guy but my specialty is DC stuff, I know very little about AC wiring, so forgive my naivete...

I have an old 16mm slide projector I found in my grandparents house. The original AC cable was all frayed, so I opened it up and spliced in the new one, capping and taping everything and being very careful to make sure that there were no internal exposed wires that might contact the chassis. The only components inside are the projector bulb and an AC motor, and of course the switch.

There was no ground wire initially (and I replaced it with nonground two-conductor line). When I turn on the unit, I could touch it just fine (i know, i know, should always have had it grounded first), but when I double checked with my multimeter sticking one probe into either AC outlet side (hot or neutral) and touching the chassis or switch with the other probe, I'm getting a consistent voltage of about 20-40 AC and DC (don't have an oscilloscope to differentiate).  Never felt a shock, and haven't tried checking the amperage yet (as I don't know how to check it in series...unless I do the same way?) Anyhow, wondering if anyone can comment on what this spurious voltage is, why it didn't shock and kill me, and how to make this thing absolutely safe...

Thanks all!

If the projector has a metal case then it should be grounded.  Buy a new three wire appliance cord and secure the green wire to the case.  Make sure it is always plugged into a grounded receptacle.  Then you can test the current draw on the ground wire.  (use a clamp type meter) This will tell you if you really have a problem. The tests you site mean little or nothing.


How do I cover the attic rafter bays after installing baffles from the soffit before replacing the siding? Should I be covering exposed fiberglass batts I stuffed into rafter bays below stapled in plastic baffles with an air barrier, such as with foil faced rigid foam board or house wrap, before replacing soffits and reinstalling siding?

I have never seen anything done to cover the insulation. I have install repaired replaced many soffits.


Pros and Cons of a washer tray We just remodeled our laundry room. It is on the first floor, ceramic tile over concrete. Our washer is a front loader, so does not -fill- with water.

What are the pros and cons of adding a washer tray underneath? Here is my list:

PROS: Catch any minor spills from the washer. Prevent some damage if the washer has a major leak (we don't have a drain to connect the pan to). Others?

CONS: Takes away from the aesthetic of the laundry (its off the hall so guests see it coming into the house). Any particles under it could scratch the tile over time. It takes up space in our small laundry room. Others?

If no tray, what (if anything) should we put under the washer feet to keep them from scratching the tile?

Looks like you hit the pros and cons of the washer tray pretty well :-) Couple of things I'd consider:

Since the room is tile and concrete, is there a drain in the floor? If so, adding a washer tray is rather unnecessary and I'd leave it out, just ensure that the floor and tile are properly sealed.

(I have seen washer trays that pretty much are the same footprint as the washer, and just raise it off the floor slightly; these blend in very well and would not be as obtrusive as a generic tray, however they may or may not exist for your model of washer, I would start with the manufacturer as they likely have one.)

As for the feet on the washer, most home improvement stores sell small carpet discs to put on furniture legs in order to prevent them from scratching wood floors and such, they also usually have small plastic discs with soft material on them for the same purpose, I'd recommend putting one of those under the washer's feet. Might see if you can find rubber ones, some of the carpet ones are made to glide easily over smooth surfaces, making it easier for chairs and such to be slid around, but you don't want your washer meandering around the laundry room! Although front loaders have a lot less motion/vibration than a top loader so this might not be an issue.


How can I tell if a drill clutch has been damaged? I have a pretty new, pretty nice Dewalt cordless drill (DCD791). I haven't used it much, but today my wife needed help drilling a giant auger into the ground to make holes for plants. There were lots of rocks and roots in this ground. Over the course of a few hours, I drilled maybe 50-100 holes, with the clutch at the highest torque setting 15 (speed setting 1). Pretty much every hole I caught a root or rocks many time, and the clutch was engaging a LOT. I tried to keep the engagement intervals short, but it still adds up I guess. At some point near the end, I noticed that if in free air I spun the auger, and then abruptly stopped, it would rattle a little bit and sort of bounce back on the rotation axis after stopping (only a very small amount). I don't know if it was always like that or not. And now I notice that the chuck has a small amount of rotational play (maybe 5 degrees?) when the drill is powered off. Again... not sure if it was always like that.
It still seems to drill fine and the clutch still seems to work. But I can't shake the feeling that something feels looser about the chuck. Is there any sort of simple test I can do to confirm or reject these feelings?

I would not worry about it because it still works, but is no longer brand new
I have multiple dewalt drills and multiple impact drivers that have had the clutch trip probably 1000 times or more on the impacts. is there a little play?  Yes more than when new, probably, possibly.
Do I worry about it?
Nope they still work both at home and at work, when they don’t work any longer I will worry about it.
It’s kind of like a clutch in a car but here there is no adjustment right. When it will no longer work you then know it’s worn out.
It will take a long while based on my experience my drill and impact at work are 6 years old regular use, home ones older but kids and grandkids abuse and they all still work.


My neighbors have a dirt and rock yard and the run-off floods a shed. How can I inhibit this? We just bought a house and the house has a (or once was, at least) a nice shed in the back with both water and power. Image is to scale (the shed is 12' x 12').

The problem is that erosion from the neighbors next door has caused the ground to "rise" against the slab and now the bottom sole plates are rotted out and every time it rains, water comes right into the shed through holes in the rotted siding.

My project is to fix the shed and make it usable for storage, but I'm trying to figure out what's the best approach to keep additional runoff from making my work an expensive trial-and-error process.

You can place a french drain on that side of the shed.

The other thing you should do is to find better material for those sole plates - I am thinking they are 4 x 4 all around - so you might try something like "Plastic Lumber" - there are many composites out there as well. This will eliminate your issues.   You can search for plastic lumber or composite wood 4 x 4  as well..

The real issue is as one commenter stated the runoff from your neighbors - I see a chicken wire fence (perhaps chickens - if this is in the county and not the city - you may not get the support to resolve the issue form your neighbor, as the requirements may be much more lax.


Water Distribution Manifolds I live in an 8 year old apt complex with a tankless water heater which is connected to a Viega water distribution manifold.  I can't find them on the web anymore so they may have gone out of business.

This problem started about two years ago and has progressed very slowly.  The hot water turns cold after about two minutes unless hot water is running elsewhere.  For example, if I run the hot water in the bathroom sink, my shower water stays hot the entire time.  If I do not run the water in the sink, the shower turns cold in two minutes, I have to turn the water off and wait about two minutes to turn it on and it will be hot again.

Happens every day.  Kitchen sink does the same thing.  Now the dishwasher is doing it because it used to work perfectly and now the dishes are still dirty.  I did an experiment by leaving the hot water running in the sink the entire time the dishwasher was on (and that is a LONG time) and the dishes came out great.

I am very uncomfortable wasting so much water.  I do not pay for the water but I believe it is precious.  Anyway, my super has been working with the mfr of the tankless heater and has cleaned filters, removed slow flow devices, run white vinegar through the heater, nothing changes.  I am wondering if the manifold has filters which need to be cleaned or if there is some other maintenance that needs to be performed.

Thanks.

Tyson sounds right on the money to me.  However keep in mind that these on-demand water heaters require regular service.  They must be acid washed regularly depending on how hard your water is to keep the calcium build-up at bay.  As the calcium starts to build-up on the inside of the heat exchanger tubing, it insulates the water from the wall of the tubing.  As this happens the sensors will have a more and more difficult time sensing actual water temperature.


100A subpanel to workshop I'm building a shed that will be housing a washer, dryer, hot water heater, and a freezer.   The dryer and water heater both require 220V 30A and will be used concurrently.
The washer and freezer use 120V 15A connections (not sure how much they actually draw), the freezer will run continuously.  I'd also like a light fixture and a 3rd 120V outlet.
The main is 200A service.  I have an existing subpanel (100A) that supplies my camper.
For the shed, I'm considering another 100A subpanel.  The shed is 30 feet away from the main, and I'm going to bury the cable underground (with or without pvc conduit depending on recommendations here.)
Is 100A sufficient?  Or overkill?
What wire size would I need from the main panel to the subpanel?
I think I need to run 4 wires (two hot, a neutral, and an equipment ground).
Is this correct?

For the sub panel sometimes you can get a better deal on a 150 amp panel your panel really cannot be two large.
Yes you will need a 4 wire feed but your main panel will dictate the size feeder wires , if I was doing this and could get a 125a breaker to feed my shop I would do it, however many panels will max out at 100 amp so size your feeder wiring on the size of your breaker.
The size of the sub panel is not the controlling factor it’s the breaker in the main that feeds the sub your sub has to be at least that big but going bigger is usually considered better.
Large feeders , most pros will pull aluminum no worry about voltage drop here and with large conductors conduit and individual conductors are the way to go the ground wire will be much smaller based on the size, yes the other conductors are based on size but grounds are a different table.
You also need a local grounding rod for the sub.
So go big on the sub panel even If you only want 80 amps, use conduit PVC is easy to cut and glue schedule 80 above ground 40 below ground,
IF you use a smaller wire size do your self a favor and over size your conduit 1-1/4” or 1-1/2” will make an easier pull with large aluminum and if you decide to go max size later it make using the existing conduit possible and a later upgrade simple.
Newer code mandates all receptacles to be GFCI protected.


Trying to rehab tired plaster ceiling need help please I'm trying to rehab and old plaster ceiling from a 1940s apartment in Manhattan. I have scraped off most of the plaster and much of the old patch work but a lot of the patches and more recent work is impossible to get off the ceiling. There are no more flaking pieces of the ceiling so I am ready to move on to the next step.

I don't need to remake the ceiling in a perfect  manner as the walls are not in great shape either. I am looking to do a decent job and one that will cover up most of the problems and the ceiling. I was hoping that someone could start to describe different products and how to go about starting off. I understand that I have to fill the gaps and gouges, maybe an intermediate coat then possibly some real plaster to finish it off but I don't know the actual product names or order in which I should start these repairs due to conflicting opinions.

You'll want to use a setting type compound, like Durabond, for the initial "fill-in" coats. Then regular joint compound is OK after that, in multiple thin coats.

Wet the old plaster prior and during the first coat, with a well wrung sponge, or mist it with a spray bottle. Don't soak it, just get it damp.

On the finishing coats, you don't have to get it wet, but do allow plenty of drying time, between coats, and wipe any sanding dust off, between coats with a well-wrung sponge.

Do not put regular joint compound directly on the old plaster - it will dry out too fast, shrink,  and fall off. The interface layer of "Setting Type" (I use Durabond 90, in the bags), is required, if you plan to finish with "All-Purpose" premixed joint compound.

Note: It is entirely OK, and recommended, to work in small sections at a time - don't try to get it all done at once, or even in one day.


Non combustible decking options We are planning our next project: A rooftop terrace.

We would like to use the full wide of our roof, our city impose non combustible (not A rating) elements withing 1.2m from property limits, so I'm looking for our options and so far I have:

Aluminium decking
Porcelain tile
fiberglass decking
Plastic wood

is there anything you see I might have forgotten?

Thanks

Concrete. Does depend on the structure being able to support it. Quite common in commercial roofing, though.

I don't think fiberglass (which is glass fibers in a plastic matrix) nor plastic wood would qualify as non-combustible. Both burn quite well, with a horrible stench.


Finding dead electric wire underground I have an abandoned fountain next to my house. A while back, the previous owner told me there is a dead wire underground that used to power the pump. The pump was removed and the wire buried.

I'm thinking about restoring the fountain. I dug around the fountain 2 ft deep and don't see anything. I know it could be buried deeper 3-4 ft. My questions are: Is it possible to find a dead wire using some sort of fancy equipment? Do professional electricians have the means to do it?

I saw this on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2NeGA7Q7Mo But I'm not sure if something like this works for dead wires (not live big cables).

Please advice

If I were you, I'd just plan to make a new trench and run new wire. Here's why

It sounds like a previous DIY project, which likely means it wasn't done correctly. Common problems with this are they used NM wire instead of UF, and they didn't bury it deep enough (needs to be at least 12" by code)
The previous wire might not work. If they used NM, there's a good chance it's got some damage by now. Even if not, the ends might be damaged after being buried exposed, and trying to splice in an outdoor setting is a pain. Just avoid the problems and run new wire.
Add conduit. It's cheap, it better protects the wire, and it's neater.


Why does my water pressure / flow rate drop sporadically? This is a recent problem that I've noticed since Hurricane Harvey came through a couple months ago. No flooding in the house, but there was 1-2' of water on the street, which did cover the water meter and shutoff (and a couple in-ground irrigation heads) for ~2 days. I'm on city water (i.e., no well, which makes this similar question not a duplicate)

Some time after a water fixture is turned on, the pressure and flow rate will drop for a second or two and then return to normal. It will do this repeatedly, at different intervals. Nothing regular that I can tell. It's like when you have a faucet on, and then turn on the outside hose or sprinkler - that kind of a drop. But it returns quickly, only to do it again some amount of time later.

Sometimes, I'll be able to use the fixture without it experiencing this drop in pressure / flow at all, or I'll only experience one or two drops. Other times, it happens every 30-60 seconds. It happens on all sinks, the master shower, and upstairs tub. Don't know about dishwasher and washing machine. I've experienced it on the outside hose bibs as well.

What could be causing this and how can I fix it?

Probably city pressure not yours many stations were affected and others are pulling up the slack.  There are some MUD's that are running 50% due to pump lose. If it happens at peak usage times then probably that.


Well Inspection Failed Looking at buying a house that is on Sepctic and a private Well.  Got the well inspection back, and failed for Total Coliform (Ecoli and Nitrate Level are fine).  The septic is on the other side of the home, and has a ~20 foot elevation difference, so that isn't the major concern in my mind...How concerned would this failed inspection make you?  Their plan is to shock chlorinate it and retest after a period of time.

The home I have also failed , we bleached the well heavily followed by a heavy flush, the new numbers came back ok but I also added a UV & filter system, the filter is a simple string filter that I change every 6 months. The UV lamp module I have changed 3 times. The UV lamps are kind of spendy so if you can  check on replacement lamps not just the price. In the last 5 years we have not had a positive test and have not had to bleach the well again. The UV system was suggested by my well guy (he is a friend) and I trust his advice is the reason I installed the UV system.


Frame or floor planks first? Is it best to frame a powder room and a couple closets first, on top of plywood subfloor, or best to lay hardwood planks first then frame on top?  I guess it would be fewer cuts to frame second. What are other considerations? What's typically done?

Framing is typically build on top of the subfloor.  The finish flooring runs to within about 1/2" of the framing, then the gap is covered by baseboard.  The gap is supposed to allow for expansion and contraction of the flooring with changes in temperature and humidity; without the gap, if the wood swells, the only way for it to go is up, i.e. pulling away from the subfloor.

I think if you build your frame on top of the finish flooring, you also run the risk of having the weight of the frame press down on one end, causing lifting at the other, or pressing in the middle causing lifting at both ends.

EDIT: I've thought of another couple of reasons not to build your frame on top of the flooring:

2x4 lumber for framing comes in a few standard lengths: for example, 96" or 92 5/8" for 8" walls.  If you put the flooring underneath it, you're going to have to cut the 2x4's down by the thickness of the flooring so that your new walls match the height of the existing walls.
hardwood flooring is expensive! Why install it somewhere that you won't ever see it?


Does the law require sheetrock on interior walls in a house? I'm working as a contractor for a guy. He wants to cut corners on houses he is going to rent. He has a house that had a severe roof leak. There is extreme damage to several rooms. He dosen't want to pay the money to demo and rebuild with rock tape mud texture etc. He wants me to tear out then put up paneling. Is that legal? If not or even if yes can you direct me somewhere I can look up the codes?

Depends.

What law does your area follow?  The building inspector can tell you.  Then you can look that up.

No inspector? Then likely no codes to follow.  Then call the fire dept - as rental housing, they may have you follow a different standard than a homeowner might be required and you'll likely need Sheetrock or similar for fire resistance.