Finding a normal looking kitchen faucet with side spray and filter My current kitchen faucet is apparently cheap junk, installed by a previous owner of contractor who did not give a damn. It now needs replacement because it is leaking. Apparently, the reason it is leaking is that the Brita faucet filter I have had on it has added enough back pressure to wreck it's cheap junkness.

When I went shopping I was very disappointed in the available selection. All the faucets available look like goofy, stupid, designer things. I want it to look like a freaking faucet. I also want to have a side spray,or at least be compatible with added side sprays.

I'd like to have the filter built in, so I know it won't wreck the new faucet, but I will settle for having a normal screw-on aerator so I can use my existing one.

Oh, it also has to not be cheap junk.

Where can I find such a thing?

EDIT:
This is what I mean by normal looking. Single lever, straight diagonal spout.

You may want to try at a local hardware store as opposed to going off to the big chain box stores. My local hardware store has a few catalogs that show many styles of faucets for kitchen sinks - including a lot of "normal" looking ones.

There are also a number of online sites including www.faucet.com although I have not always been convinced that their prices are all that great.


Installing anchors into a hollow metal panel I'm installing a curtain rod in our studio. The windows we have are installed and framed by metal including a metal panel box atop them. It's hollow and the metal panel appears to be less than 2mm thick.

I see holes already from a prior tenant and I'm trying to utilize those.

Using the anchors supplied by the curtain rod manufacturer does not work. Tapping the anchor into the metal, it starts to impact on the surface and does not sit flush with the wall. There's no width specified by instructions but comparing with other anchors it looks to fit in 1/4" holes.

I bought "Triple Grip" anchors as they appeared to work for thinner surfaces. I installed one successfully but attempts to get into other holes are failing. The anchor starts spinning as I drill into it (usually about halfway in) and typically rips into 2 pieces.

I also have toggle bolts that I can use, but I am wary of this because the 1/2" hole I would need to drill. We're renting and would not be here long.

Am I not installing the triple grip anchors correctly? Is there a better solution?

It occurred to me that a neodymium magnet on the bottom of the panel would provide a very secure anchor but this would be a custom fabrication and probably outside the scope of this project :-)

Hold the bracket on the face of the metal panel and mark the screw holes with a sharpie. Drill a small pilot hole at the marks. Then drill a hole that is slightly smaller than the shank of the screw you will use to install the bracket. Then fasten the bracket with the screws into the pre-drilled holes. You don't need any anchors with this method.


Is it necessary to sand before the last coat of oil paint? When I'm painting high-gloss oil-based on woodwork (architraves, skirtingboards, windows), I have been following the tin's advice and sanding between all coats.  I don't resent sanding after the undercoat/primer because it helps provide a smooth finish, but the final sand often takes the paint off sharp edges, even when I am careful, which can leave them a bit dark after the final coat.  Is this final sand necessary?

It depends ;)

I don't tend to do a final sand for the very reason you mention. However there have been times when the finish hasn't been to my liking so I have sanded - but in these cases I use the finest grade paper and sand very lightly to just take off the drips and/or dust flecks that have settled on the wood.

So if the penultimate coat is good you might be OK without sanding, but sanding does provide something for the final coat to bind to if the previous coat was applied some time ago, so ultimately it will provide a more durable finish. If you are painting the second coat as soon as the first coat is dry then you don't need to bother.


Can I attach a television mount using custom drilled holes? I have a 94" wall with 14" studs. There is a stud right in the center at 47". I have been looking for a full motion mount wide enough, so that I can use the studs on both sides of the center.  Meaning I'd need at least 28" of mount capability. So far I have only been able to find mounts that will work on 16", and 24" studs. The full motion mount I purchased has 26" of mounting surface, but because my studs are 14" centers, I will only be able to use one of the pre-drilled holes.

The TV is a 70" LED, that weighs 86lbs.

Can I put the Full motion mount I have up, drill a new hole in the center, and use the farthest hole on one side? Would it then be safe to have the Arm assembly approximately in the center of the mount, in order to get the TV back to center? In this configuration, the arm assembly would not be in the center of both sets of bolts securing the mount to the studs it would be about inline, possibly a little bit outside of the new holes I would be drilling in the center of the wall plate.
 [Wall] (https://us-mg6.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2_0_0_1_1432559_AJXrHkgAABz1UwOIKAAAAHr7oVI&pid=1&fid=Inbox&inline=1)
[wall plate with markings] (https://us-mg6.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2_0_0_1_1433284_AG%2FuHkgAAB0wUwOIXgAAAClJwZI&pid=1&fid=Inbox&inline=1)
The green tape marks my studs, I would be using the existing hole farthest to the right and drilling one in center, the arm would need to be positioned approximately in the center of the frame.

The vast majority of TV mounts have multiple slots across their face to provide a range of choices for mounting bolts. Decent ones are fairly cheap and I would recommend getting one that gives you some choices on positioning support.

If you must use the one you have, drilling two holes in a solid area of the mount should not compromise the unit. You should definitely put two lag bolts in studs on the top and two on the bottom.

Mounts are designed to allow the TV to be positioned anywhere along the track, even fully to one side. the force of the TV on the mount is mostly shear force, pulling straight down. Counteracting this force is the shear strength of the bolts and the stud materials.

The effective force on the bolts and studs is based on where the weight load is in relationship to the bolts and studs. If the weight were exactly centered between the bolts and studs, the effective weight would be divided between each stud and vertical pair of bolts and be halved (43 lbs on each). If the weight were totally on one end and there were a middle set of bolts and a set of bolts on the opposite end, the weight on the middle set could be  increased to the full load of the TV (86 lbs downward) and the pressure on the bolts at the opposite end of the mount would be the load of the TV, but upwards.

Any serious lag bolts 1/4" or more, and stud should have no problem handling that shear force.

If you were to have the middle bolts further away from the TV than the center of the mount, you start to get leverage forces that could multiply the strain on the bolts and studs that might compromise their ability to hold the TV in a stable position. The likely weak points would eventually be the threaded holes in the studs rather than the bolts. You could also see a pulling of the TV and its mount out of horizontal.

In sum, so long as you do not compromise the integrity of the mount and have the mount holes separated by at least half the width of the mount, you will probably be fine.

BUT, once again, I would urge the selection of a mount with a wider range of mounting choices to benefit from its full width for support.

SOME ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: The vast majority of TV mounts in general are only intended to span two studs. Additionally, if you are willing to add a bit of depth, you could attach the mount to a 1x6 board (or a strip of 3/4" plywood) using nuts, bolts and fender washers through the existing holes, and then mount the board or strip to two or even three studs with lag bolts.

SUPPLEMENT:

The Original Poster has now added information that this is a full motion mount. Because of the outward hinge aspect, these mounts almost always have one vertical pivot line in which all of the weight is concentrated. This makes the entire unit prone to horizontal twist forces and lateral tension forces (outward), not just shear forces. This also makes it more important to spread out the load, either with a new mount that has more mounting hole choices or using a bracing board that is then mounted to the studs. It also calls for deeply embedded lag bolts (at least 2" in the stud).

There are some full motion mounts that can accommodate 70 inch sets, have multiple horizontal slots and even allow some horizontal adjustment. But they are much pricier than basic mounts.

 Links and images are for illustration only and are not endorsements of goods sources.


Drywall hole slightly too large for mounting bracket to cover I'm trying to replace a ceiling mounted wireless access point and I've hit a snag. The old one was mounted inside the drywall, instead of over top of it. The new one comes with a mounting bracket, but the screw holes for the bracket don't quite clear the hole from the old one.

Anyone have any ideas for how I might solve this? I'm thinking worst case is I just patch the hole and shift the new one over a bit, but I'd like to avoid patching if possible.

You can purchase a piece of scrap drywall from your local hardware store - they might even give it to you free for that matter.

Make a rectangular piece the same size as your box.
Drill the hole for your wire.
Install rectangular dry wall piece over the box, patch nicely.
Sand and paint if need be.

When I do this I usually run a screw (or three) part way into my drywall scrap piece - so I can hold it in position in either manually or in the case where I have 3 screws with string / wire to keep it where I want it - when patching a wall.


How to fix bad paint job? I really wanted to paint one of my walls from white to a semi-glossy black. Not being a painter at all, at the recommendation of the store clerk, I used primer. Unfortunately, it was a spray primer and I (not really knowing what I was doing) made a bunch of figure 8's on the wall.

Unfortunately, when the light hits the wall at the right angle, you can clearly see the texture difference of where the primer was laid on and where the primer was not.

It's a year later, and I still have my mistake staring at me. I'm just wondering if another coat of the same paint will hide the texture difference, or if I'd have to do something more involved. Thanks.

In the paint business they call it holdout. It is a reference to how paints with a sheen attain a uniform sheen on a particular surface. If a surface has different absorptive properties (e.g. figure-8s of primer) then the gloss will not be uniform.

An additional coat of paint may provide a uniform gloss. Be aware that if the primer you partially applied changed the surface texture, then you will likely still see the figure-8s. A possible fix for that would be to apply another coat but use a thick nap roller (or other texturing strategy) to create a new and more pronounced texture that will hide the difference beneath.

Glossy paints are notorious for showing off imperfections in the substrate. Pro decorators are extremely conscientious with their surface preparations when applying them.


Changing a dishwasher from hardwired to cord-and-plug My dishwasher flooded my kitchen, requiring the removal of the flooring and eventually the lower cabinets. I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher right after the flood, but couldn't unplug it because there wasn't a receptacle anywhere I could see. I was worried that it was hardwired, and the flood remediation guys quickly discovered that a) it was, and b) there was only about 8 inches of slack in the cable.
I am not especially pleased about this. The dishwasher isn't on a switch or a dedicated circuit, and I have no idea which circuit it is on (none of them is labeled "dishwasher", it's not on either kitchen receptacle circuit, and the breaker panel labeling in general is pretty bad). Right now, I have no knowledge of how to de-energize a major appliance that uses water. Even when I figure out which circuit it's on, this setup will needlessly complicate future dishwasher installation and service, so I would much prefer to have a receptacle for it.
I had two contractors come out today to measure for estimates on the rebuild. Both told me that the dishwasher was supposed to be hardwired and they couldn't change it, though one said he could lengthen the cable. I live in New Castle County, Delaware, which follows NEC-2014 as near as I can tell. The selected answer in this previous question directly quotes NEC-2014 saying that dishwashers can definitely be cord-and-plug provided some relatively simple requirements are met. And while this is the first house I've owned, I'm pretty confident that I've seen the cord-and-plug setup in other houses I've lived in. So why might two contractors have told me they couldn't put in a receptacle for the dishwasher?

My recent dishwashers have all been corded.  If not, I just purchased an appliance cord (14 ga. or 12ga) and connected it to the terminals on the DW before I installed it. Normally the outlet for the DW is under the sink next to the DW. That may be an issue if the cable feeding the hard wired DW isn't long enough to get to an outlet (surface mounted is fine, you won't be seeing it) in the sink cabinet.   Any splices need to be "permanently accessible".  I "think" if you had to extend the cable and connected in a box behind the DW that would qualify, but I'm not sure on that.
Also, you need to identify which circuit supports the DW and what else is on it. DWs are supposed to have a dedicated circuit.  Would it be possible during your repairs to run a new cable from the main panel to the DW?


What can I use to build a short retaining wall for a patio extension? We want to extend our patio that is currently about 10 x 5 feet to about 10 x 10 feet.

Problem is there is a slope where the current patio ends. The next 5 feet has an approx. 1 foot deep slope.

My worry is that if I build a retaining wall and compact the newly filled slope, the compaction will destroy the retaining wall.

What would be a strong enough material that can withhold the compaction and the 1 foot deep filling?

Retaining wall block is made to have heavily compacted backfill. Some of it, if not all of it would have to be crushed stone though. After that patio pavers would probably be more forgiving of any future ground movement than poured concrete, but it all depends.

A wooden deck patio extension might be the easiest way to go.


How to attach a blind to a wall when I need extra clearance? I recently bought a Venetian blind, which comes with 3 mounting brackets. My plan is to screw these to the wooden window frame.
The issue is that the glass panel has been replaced by double glazing a few years back, and it protrudes 1 cm inwards.
The net effect is that I need my brackets to have an extra 1cm clearing from the frame. My plan was to buy 1cm thick softwood blocks and attach the brackets to the wall with the softwood in between to give me the extra clearance. Am I doing the right thing here? Is there a better way to do this?

This may be barely more than a suggestion but I'll post it as an answer.
Rather than make little 1cm blocks, I'd use a strip of wood about 1cm x 2cm the same length as the blind's width.  You could buy a piece of molding or trim that's right, or rip a strip off a scrap of wood, or etc.
This way you can attach that strip to the frame at spots that aren't right behind the mounting brackets for the blind, and the screws won't interfere with one another.  Plus it will be quite a bit stronger and probably a better finished appearance.


Faucet Handle Setscrew Loosens Two lavatories in our house have American Standard Cadet centerset faucets, model 8115F.

Both show the same issue: the setscrews holding the handle to the cartridge loosen.
The setscrew and threads look undamaged, and feel correct: the hex key seats solidly in the screw, the screw threads nicely into the cartridge arm, and the screw tightens as I expect without any sense (in my hand) that the threads are damaged. Still, a month or two later, the handle is slightly loose. The pattern repeats. The faucets feel and operate correctly.
Is a  drop of removable threadlocker (Permatex Orange or Locktite Blue, for example) called for here? Something else? Trying to wrap the setscrew threads in dental floss would be challenging.
Any other ideas?

@Mysterfixit was right. Teflon tape on the setscrews has eliminated all the slop on one fixture, and almost all on the other. The status quo is now fine with me.


How to clean a new tile floor with single component grout without causing damage to the grout I installed porcelain floor tile with this single component grout. I did the initial cleanup of excess grout with a damp sponge. House cleaners will be coming one week after I installed the grout. How long should I wait after installation to mop the floor, and are there cleaning products that should be avoided in order to prevent damage to the grout?

To be clear, my concern is not how to do the initial cleanup with a wet sponge or how to get the floor looking its best, but rather, how to ensure the grout is not damaged by regular floor cleaning.

The company says that you do not need to seal it but some users say that it will stain.

So i would use a good sealer on it, wait the time specified on the instructions and then use a mild detergent like TSP and an abrasive pad. Clean with clean warm water and sponge.

(To be fair it is an "Advanced acrylic plus silicone resin formulation" so i do not know how well the sealer will penetrate it.)

Wait a week and seal again and then you should be good to clean it when needed.

It is tile and should not need harsh or extra strong chemical cleaners. Mild soapy water will be just fine.


What is this orange residue in my water heater? My water heater has two control panels: one for the upper thermostat and one for the lower thermostat. The other day I opened the panels in order to adjust the thermostats, and I noticed that in the lower panel, there was some orange residue.

Please see pictures below. The residue seems too orange to be rust. Is this harmless, or is it something I should investigate further?

That is rust from the cover you took off. It is harmless. If the water heater is in a laundry room, some water probably got splashed on the tank and ran down behind the cover.   The covers are never painted as good on the back as they are on the front so they rust easier there. The great news is there's no sign of rust inside by the thermostat and heating element. If it really bothers you, you can rub it down with some emery paper and spray some Rust-Oleum on it.


PVC pipe cutter not working properly I got a PVC pipe cutter a year or two ago, and used it once.  Now I need to use it again and I am finding it extremely difficult to get it to cut the pipe.  This cutter is of the style where there is a sharp disc on the outer edge and two black rollers on the inner edge with a screw-like mechanism to move the inner edge towards the outer one; one rotates the cutter around the pipe (or vice versa) while gradually tightening the screw.

The first problem that I had (when I first used the device) was that I seemed to have to turn the screw an insane amount to get the pipe completely cut, to the point where the pipe itself is showing visible deformation (bowing).  If the cut in the middle of the pipe this doesn't seem to be a problem (I'm using 3/4" schedule 40 PVC), but if I need to cut a short length of pipe (under 2-4 inches) this can damage the pipe.

The second problem I only encountered now after not using the cutter for a year or so.  The problem that I am having now is that, before I have tightened the cutter enough to cut all the way through the pipe, I am seeing some kind of black mark being made on the pipe itself.  Since the rollers are black I can only suspect that the force between the pipe and the roller is causing part of the roller surface to come off.  Obviously I don't want a black film compromising the integrity of the bond; I have tried sanding it but it doesn't completely come off.  I wound up using a pocket knife to finish cutting the pipe but that is rather sloppy and the edges requires a lot of sanding.

Is this just a crappy tool (my searches for "PVC pipe cutter" yield hardly any images similar to the type I am using, but it's what the hardware store had) or did I just get unlucky? I haven't really used it that much so I wouldn't think the problem would be the disc blade getting dull.   I assume I probably need to throw away this cutter and get a new one, or is there some trick like applying oil to the roller or something?

It sounds like you're using a crappy copper pipe cutter. To cut PVC, you want one of these instead:

I've used mine to cut thousands of PVC pipes and it does the job quickly and easily. You can probably find one for less than $10 and it will serve you well for life.


Can I install an above-the-range microwave above an exhaust vent? So we recently purchased a house that doesn’t have a lot of counter space and we are wanting to install a microwave above the gas range. However , there is currently a through the wall exhaust fan right about the range on the wall. Are we able to still install the microwave above that fan? Or will it be a no go for above range microwave because of that fan? Thank you for your help!

This is a common problem. So common that you can buy a microwave oven that has an exhaust fan on the bottom for use over a cooktop. Power and control of the fan is all part of the microwave. The typical term is "over the range microwave". Many companies make them, such as this GE:

Key things to look for are:

Microwave oven capacity
Width - typical is 30"
Speed (typically measured in CFM) of fan

and the tough one is to figure out if the exhaust vent location will work. Download the installation manual before you buy anything and see if everything will fit or what (if anything) you will need to change.
Update based on picture:
The picture shows an in-wall fan. I used to have one of those before I redid my kitchen many years ago. It looks like an original from the 1960s or earlier. This type of fan really does not do a very good job, because it is pulling air across instead of up. It is likely to pull more air from the rest of the kitchen than up from the cooktop. It might be effective if it is very high power, but I doubt that is the case.
Replacing the fan is a very good idea. But then you run into another problem. Even without including a microwave oven, a properly mounted exhaust fan would be relatively low over the cooktop. The cabinets above the cooktop should have been a bit shorter so that they could be mounted higher up on the wall to allow more room for a fan and (now) for a microwave oven.
What to do? When I redid my kitchen in a similar situation, I ended up, with the help of my electrician and his tools, knocking a new hole in the outer wall in the right place to install a new exhaust fan and I removed the old fan and covered up the hole. In your case, that will not be as easy a task. However, even without the fan problem (which is a real problem - you need a fan over a cooktop), there simply is not enough space to mount a microwave oven under that cabinet and still have a functional cooktop.


Manual Transfer Switch to power Main panel and Sub panel circuits I had installed a Reliance model 31410CRK manual transfer switch, which has 10 individual circuits.

I happen to have a Main panel, and a Sub panel which are a few feet apart. The Sub panel was installed years ago to be the dedicated source of power for our downstairs when we had it renovated.

I have all of the lines from the transfer switch going into the main panel, and 8 of the 10 are already wired to my specific breakers in the main panel. Now wondering about the last two, and if/how I can supply them to the sub panel.

Question is this - what is the proper method by which I can use the 2 wire pairs from the transfer switch (which all feed into the main panel at the moment) and use them to electrify a couple of circuits in the sub panel?

Would it be a violation to connect conduit from the Main to the Sub, splice into the 2 wire pairs, and pass them thru the conduit to the Sub?
  Or, since the transfer switch has a few knockouts, pull those wire pairs, connect conduit from the transfer switch to the Sub panel, and pass them thru the conduit to the Sub?

You have the wrong tool for the job here

The fact you have standby circuits split across the two panels means you can't use the transfer switch you have, or really any "select circuit" type of transfer switch for that matter.  In fact, installing your current transfer switch would lead to a Code violation, in particular of the rules in 300.3(B) and 310.10(H) regarding parallel paths for current flow.  These rules keep hots and their corresponding neutrals together so that there's no ferrous metal separating them that can be heated up by the stray magnetic field between the two wires, thus risking a fire or other damage as well as wasting power.

In your case, what happens is that everything is fine as long as all the circuits are on utility power.  However, because the generator's neutral is connected to the neutral system at the transfer switch, and there's only one wire in the flex whip to carry neutral back from the transfer switch to your house's wiring, any circuits that are coming from a different panel start having issues as soon as they get flipped to generator power.  In particular, the current from the generator to the load goes through the transfer switch and its whip, then off to the branch circuit and its loads, but the current coming back from the branch-circuit neutral winds up taking a detour via the other panel and its feeder neutral before getting back to where the transfer switch neutral connects, creating the Code violation described above.

I would take that transfer switch back and get a differently configured one

The "select circuit" style of transfer switch looks attractive because it can be made inexpensively and seems to be simple to use.  However, it is actually fumble-prone in the sense that you have to mark or remember which circuits service which loads, which might be an issue when everyone's panicking because the lights went out mid-storm.  They're also incompatible with most AFCIs (including the ones that'd go into your panels) due to the quirks of AFCI innards combined with that misrouted neutral current mentioned above.

A better option all-around would be to go to an interlocked-breaker (subpanel) type of transfer switch with an adequate number of spaces.  Reliance makes suitable ones in their Panel/Link line; you can also get a main lug panel, suitable breakers for that panel, and an interlock kit to match if you want to take a more DIY approach to the problem.  Either way, the standby circuits are moved to be fed from the standby subpanel, and now you only have to worry about throwing one handle after you start up the generator to get the lights on, provided your generator can handle all the standby loads at once that is.


What is this stuff in the attic? What is the black stuff in the first four photos, and the white stuff in the last photo?  Is any of it mold, or is it all harmless stuff?

Structure is about 10 years old.  Home inspector claimed that the first four photos are just "truss fungus", which he claimed is present in almost all homes.  He didn't notice the white stuff in the last photo.

The home inspector claimed that the wood comes like that from the builder's wood supplier, and it is totally normal.

Was the home inspector correct, or was he just making a quick buck on a shoddy inspection?

Yep, the black is mold baby & the white is drywall residue or "maybe" some water marking, but that is one straight edge. Bleach & scrub-off the mold & increase your attic ventilation to rid the place of mold.


How can I stop Lego bricks from falling in to a register? My kids like to play with Lego bricks on the floor, and sometimes a small piece will fall in to a heating register. Sometimes I can pull them out, but usually they fall too far, and there are sharp edges that like to draw blood.

Is there something I can do to block bricks from falling in, without interfering with air flow?

I like the idea of a smaller grate, but make life easy and get some regular fiberglass screen material at the hardware store and wrap the register cover with it and reinstall the cover. Cheap, easy and safe.


Why lamp is not working correctly? I have a study lamp. It works sometimes, and sometimes it does not. I am using 220V power. On the lamp is written G23 PL-11W 230V/50W. What do you think what is the problem?

Link for lamp picture http://www.electromarket220.net.ua/components/com_jshopping/files/img_products/full_3f106e1101c6751d238a8d94d792cf47.JPG

Usually it is the lightbulb itself. It can be that it is nearing its end of life and simly needs to be replaced, or it can be that it just isn't fitted properly. The next best thing but quite unlikely with devices like this, is the powerswitch.


How should I shim the feet of a modular tub? I did the tile in another bath - house built around 1990. Sub floor is in great shape and level(?).

Sterling (Kohler) 'Ensemble' unit. It appears there are 8 'feet' that are a part of the 'grid' affixed to the bottom of the unit. Their instructions say to lay the felt pad (IF included) under the unit so that 'feet' rest on it... continue with install. Then use shims to level the tub. When you put the tub into the stud pocket and fix it to the studs, unless you are two inches tall and can climb beneath it, how do I put in shims and know where they are needed?

Or the next section section of instructions they say to use a mortar base to level it. Lay 1 to 2" mortar under the tub and squish it down to level it etc.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and assumed the 'feet' are in plane with the bottom edge such that - assuming a flat level surface - there would be no need to shim.

I just got off the phone with Kohler. And I posed the same question about the 'felt pad', and shimming after the fact. They were unable to answer my question Just get a felt pad from one of the box stores...

Anyone have experience with this type of product - molded support grid with 8 tubular feet on the bottom? Will the "felt pad" be sufficient?

Instructions (PDF)

It's a trial and error thing. Place it, feel for wobble. Pull it out and make adjustments. Or avoid the whole fiasco and use mortar, which is the technique the pros use for obvious reasons. It's flexible and can be done in the blind.

And the reason it's necessary is because fiberglass things tend to be less precisely built than, say, wooden furniture. The front panel is left slightly longer to be sure that it rests tightly against the floor.


Can I split a 60 amp split-phase circuit to multiple 15 or 20 ampere circuits? I have two 60A (to my knowledge) split-phase outlets (14-50R) in a commercial building, which I'd like to break out semi-permanently to 120V outlets, ideally without having an electrician modify the building.

I took an educated chance and wired up two branches of 120v (hot-neutral + ground) from one of these receptacles to power an LED screen array. The wiring was done inside the plug, so there are two three-wire cables coming out, terminated by "Powercon" connectors (but they could just as easily be 5-15 style). Each branch has an equal number of panels, and so the branches are about as close to balanced as possible (although there is always the possibility of some panels drawing more than others).

This has been working well, but a bit of self-doubt has set in; most importantly, is this safe? Would it be smarter to build a small sub panel which is fed through the 14-50 plug? If it is acceptable, can I safely do it again with the other circuit, without the guarantee of a mostly balanced load?

You should make a plug-in subpanel. Remember to keep ground and neutral isolated in the subpanel.

You don't need to worry about balancing loads - if the loads are balanced, the current in the neutral is zero, otherwise it's more than zero, in any case it's fine if the circuit is properly wired. This is the way it works into your house/building and at every sub-panel feed.

You want a sub-panel so that there are more-reasonable sized (15-20 amp) breakers on your 120V circuits, rather than a 60 amp - unless your 120V circuit is a 60 amp circuit with all conductors properly sized for that load.


Does the application of a new layer of lacquer dissolve pinhole bubbles? I am brushing on lacquering to 50 small walnut plates.   My first coats were a bit of a learning curve and I had produced some small bubbles.  My understanding is that new coats of lacquer will dissolve into the previous coats fixing small imperfections.  After my 2nd coat of Watco's clear finish dried for 2 hours (as label recommended), I applied my 3rd and anticipated final coat.  No new bubbles, but the previous ones are still present.  Isn't lacquer re-coats supposed to dissolve/remove pinhole bubbles?

Should I.....
    1. Sand with 400 grit and apply another coat
    2. Rub out and see if its enough
    3. Apply a bit of lacquer thinner +/- lacquer and re-coat.

As you have found, a further coat does not dissolve dried bubbles in a varnish coat.

You will need to sand it back and recoat, but 400 grit? I would suggest much finer.


Should I install a wall before or after hardwood floor installation? Possible Duplicate:
  Frame or floor planks first?

I am building a small wall between two rooms. The existing flooring was carpet, which I have removed. I plan to install a floating floor (the floor is concrete, on the 4th floor). My question is should I install the channel for the wall directly on the concrete and then build the wall and install the floor around it, or install the flooring first and then build the wall on top?

If it makes a difference, the wall will be small, only about 16"x5"x96"

If you are using a true floating floor like Pergo or a similar product I would suspect that the wall would need to be done first.If you build the wall on top of the flooring it will no longer float and buckling will occur as the flooring expands and contracts.This is why they recomend spacing between the flooring and fixed points like walls,cabinets etc.


What could be causing cable signal to be lost? One tv stopped working while all the others in the house work.  Comcast guy claims the cable in my wall behind my fireplace went bad.  They told me that before and were wrong.  How can I check if there is no signal from the cable?  He has another cable unsightly running across the fireplace.

The equipment required to properly test a digital cable signal - not just the presence but the quality of is expensive and is unlikely to be something you would want to acquire.  If a temporary cable runs works correctly then it would seem like the technicians assessment was correct, especially if it is run from the same splitter as your other line.

The existing cable might show continuity (i.e. there is no physical break), but if the cable or terminations are damaged then you will not be able to utilize this run.

Typically I would replace both ends of the cable before doing any further troubleshooting as these can pull off the cable if not installed well.  You would also want to do this on the end of the cable that connects to the other side of your wall plate, and where the cable connectors to the splitter.

As for the unsightly cable, you could either get the cable company back to run it nicely, or if that is not something they will do (a lot of times they will not do any in-house runs) then you can contact an electrician or cable installer (alarm installers will often do this too) to run a new cable in your walls if it is not something you feel comfortable doing.

If you search for running cables on this site you will find some information on how to do so.


Is using 15 amp components on a 20 amp breaker against code? I have noticed in a few different houses in Oklahoma that 20 amp breakers are used, but all of the outlets and switches only seem to be rated for 15 amps. This goes against everything I know to be proper and safe. The wire used is 12 gauge, so at least that is fine.

I have started to replace all of the switches and outlets with the decorative switches (the rectangular ones) and have found it very difficult to find switches that are rated for 20 amps. As for the outlets, I have can find them rated for 20 amps, but not in the 10 packs that I see for the 15 amp versions. To be clear I am not speaking about the shape of the plug, rather I am talking about the rating of the internal components of the outlet.

Is there something about electrical code that I am missing?

NEC 2008

  210.21 Outlet Devices. Outlet devices shall have an ampere rating that is not less than the load to be served and shall comply with
  210.21(A) and (B).

  (B) Receptacles

  (1) Single Receptacle on an Individual Branch Circuit. A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an
  ampere rating not less than that of the branch circuit.

  Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed in accordance with
  430.81(B).

  Exception No. 2: A receptacle installed exclusively for the use of a cord-and-plug-connected arc welder shall be permitted to have an
  ampere rating not less than the minimum branch-circuit conductor
  ampacity determined by 630.11(A) for arc welders.

  (2) Total Cord-and-Plug-Connected Load. Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, a
  receptacle shall not supply a total cord and-plug-connected load in
  excess of the maximum speciﬁed in Table 210.21(B)(2).

  (3) Receptacle Ratings. Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall
  conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3), or where larger
  than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the
  branch-circuit rating.

  Exception No. 1: Receptacles for one or more cord-andplug-connected arc welders shall be permitted to have ampere ratings not less than
  the minimum branch-circuit conductor ampacity permitted by 630.11(A)
  or (B) as applicable for arc welders.

  Exception No. 2: The ampere rating of a receptacle installed for electric discharge lighting shall be permitted to be based on
  410.62(C)

  (4) Range Receptacle Rating. The ampere rating of a range receptacle shall be permitted to be based on a single range demand
  load as speciﬁed in Table 220.55.

If it is a single receptacle on a 20 Amp circuit, it must be a 20 Amp receptacle (aside from the 2 exceptions).  If there are multiple receptacles on a 20 Amp circuit, the receptacles can be either 15 or 20 Amp (aside from the exceptions).

This is to allow You to have multiple devices plugged in drawing less than 15 Amps each, but the total draw on the circuit may be greater than 15 Amps.

NOTE:
Keep in mind that NEC defines a receptacle as follows.

  Receptacle. A receptacle is a contact device installed at the outlet for the connection of an attachment plug. A single receptacle
  is a single contact device with no other contact device on the same
  yoke. A multiple receptacle is two or more contact devices on the same
  yoke.

So a duplex receptacle would be considered two receptacles, according to this definition. Which means you can install a single 15 Amp duplex receptacle on a 20 ampere circuit, without violating this code.


What differences does a drywall thickness do? Differnet Drywall types? I am looking into drywall on the HomeDepot website and I see they have few thicknesses: 1/2", 5/8", 3/8" of the same Sheetrock brand 4'x8' Gypsum Board. What are the different use scenarios for each thickness?

Also, what are the different uses for the differnet types? For example, Gypsum, Gypsum Base, Firecode Core, UltraLight, Mold Tough, FireGuard, etc?

Insulation (biggest one).
soundproofing.
Moisture permeability.
Fire Rating

A material by material comparison would be beyond the scope of this forum.


Are two 8' grounding rods and clamps on the gas and water service necessary for 25 ohms? I was just told by the electrical inspector that I need grounding clamps on the cold water and gas line in addition to two 8' grounding rods. As far as I'm aware the NEC only says you need to have a maximum resistance of 25 ohms, and I know the burden of proof is on me, but this seems excessive.
I've seen many new construction properties, all which passed inspection with less.
I know I have to do it.  I guess I just want to know if it really takes this much grounding, to stay under 25ohms?

Yes the additional water and gas lines need to be connected but it is not necessarily for grounding resistance.
The gas meter is grounded not to be part of the grounding electrode system but because the internal pipes may become energized. Code actually requires this.
The water pipes, if not part of the grounding electrode system, may also become energized thus need to be connected to the system.
You may find out the water pipes and your 2 electrodes do not get you down to 25 ohms. When I first started taking measurements, I expected very low values with water pipes and ground rods, but found quite often the values were above 25 ohms. In fact, many times I saw values up to 4x or close to 100 ohms, unless I connected the well casing or an Ufer ground.
So the more grounding you have the better:

25 ohms =4.8 amps to ground
15 amps to ground 8 ohms
20 amps to ground 6 ohms

The max voltage to ground in residential with split-phase 240v service
is 120v to ground so you can see to clear a 20 amp breaker your grounding resistance for a fault would need to be below 6 ohms.
So it is code if metallic water pipes and gas lines for them to be bonded to your electrode system.
The best grounds turn out to be Ufer or concrete encased and water pipe (well casings are great but only require bonding if there is a pump).
Some older homes have disconnected from their wells for city water hook ups.  Your 2 ea 8’ rods separated by at least 6’ are the minimum code allowed.


Why would there be an additional cable in double gang box for 2 light switches? I replaced two older dimmer switches for light fixtures within a double gang box with two new Lutron LED dimmers (Skylark Contour CTCL-153P-AL).  Since the dimmers that were replaced had no ground wires attached to the ground wires within the gang box, I removed the ground wires from the new dimmers (since the gang box and new Lutron faceplate are non-metallic, I believe that this meets NEC code)

Upon wiring the hot side of each dimmer, I discovered that the older dimmers were attached to an additional black lead from another Romex cable within the gang box.  Although I wired the new dimmers exactly like the older dimmers, I'm just curious why there would be an additional cable!

Since the Lutron faceplate is nonmetallic and noncombustible, the NEC allows for the green wire to be capped or removed from the dimmer switch (see dimmer switch highlighted notes)

Those diagrams on the Internet (especially the annoyingly obsolete ones from that site) assume you only have one source cable.

In reality, you often have two source cables, with their blacks going to the same place, their whites going to the same place, and their grounds going to the same place.

And if you want to get technical, they aren't actually two source cables; one is really source and the other one is onward power to other points of use.   However, we don't need to care which particular one is source vs onward, as it will be wired exactly the same either way.

I have seen boxes used as splices for 3-4 "source/onward" cables, and that is fine too (provided the box is not overfilled).

The only time we care about source vs onward is when we a) are installing a GFCI device, and b) we have a knowing, affirmative plan to use the GFCI to protect the onward part of the circuit.

On the ground wires, the applicable Code is NEC 110.3(B), which says you must install according to the labeling and instructions. If it says to ground it, ground it.  Typically you splice all grounds to each other and to any metal boxes, however switches (not receptacles) can take their grounds via the mounting screws if the box is metal.

(note that the "splice em all together" rule does not apply to neutrals.)


Can I plaster and paint over wallpaper? I have a 20cm hole in a wallpapered wall.
Can I get away with filling the wall with plaster, then painting over it, without stripping the wallpaper off the entire wall first?
Or must I strip the wallpaper first?

With a fresh utility knife blade cut through the wall paper around the area you wish to repair. It can be any shape, but give yourself some margin, say a few inches away from the edge of the brittled or cracked areas.

Shmoo shapes are best. (What's a Shmoo you ask?)

Within that area peel off the wall paper and anything that comes with it. Make sure you don't peel outside the area, and re-cut as needed.
Perform drywall repairs with proper backing as needed (drywall board on wooden backing, or mud on backing etc.., depending what's behind the hole)
Patch and smooth with a finishing drywall compound and feather lightly into the existing painted area. Sand as needed.
Prime and paint.

Textures may not match.
If you need more tips on the plastering / mudding part, let us know. Compounds come in different packaging (bags, tubs) and types (setting vs drying), and some are better for this task than others.


How do I correctly install metal roofing over a workshop with a vaulted/exposed ceiling I'm in the process of replacing a badly leaking roof over an area that will become my new workshop space once it is dry.

The existing structure is attached to the side of my house, is 14ft wide, and 28ft long, and has a roof that slopes from about 10-11ft where it joins to the house, down to about 8-9ft at the eaves. I measured this as a 2/12 pitch. The construction is 2x6 rafters, 16" OC, with 2x6 blocking halfway down. The sheathing seam lands on the blocking. Prior to my work, the roof was covered with 3 layers of poorly installed asphalt composition shingles, laid over 3/8" plywood sheathing. I have torn everything off down to the plywood, much of which was badly rotted (I stepped through it accidentally to discover this).

For the replacement roof, I am using Fabral Shelterguard 5-rib corrugated metal roofing, and will have an end-lap halfway down the roof because I could not locally purchase 16ft continuous panels of the metal roofing. I also purchased two rolls (4sq total) of 30# ASTM D226 felt. I had intended on putting the felt down under the roofing but I have read tons and tons of conflicting information about whether felt is even necessary under metal roofing. Many people seem concerned that without proper preparation, the metal can sweat on the underside if warm moist air is allowed to contact cold metal panels.

All of this information seems to be specific to house roofs where the underside of the roof is only exposed to a ventilated attic space or similar. I'm not even sure whether I'm going to insulate the ceiling of this workshop. In any case, the ceiling is not going to be isolated from the "living space". I need to know if, and how that changes how I need to install the metal roofing.

Should I tear off all the sheathing, and install the roofing over 1x4 or 2x4 purlins running across the rafters?

If it's okay to put the metal roofing over the existing plywood sheathing, do I need the felt paper under it or can I omit that?

Should I use the foam plug material supplied by the roof manufacturer to seal the eaves underneath the metal roofing (preventing air movement between the sheathing and the metal)?

All metal roofs leak and condensate and therefore need a "moisture barrier". I call this condensation phenomenon, "The Coke bottle effect." When you take a coke bottle out of the refrigerator, it sweats because the inside of the coke bottle is colder than the outside of the bottle sitting in a warm room. So, your metal roofing will be colder on the "outside" compared to the side on the roof sheathing...thus, sweating and condensation.

The type of moisture barrier depends on the slope of the roof. The lower the slope, the better the moisture barrier should be.

For "low-slope" applications, like yours, water is more likely to get blown through joints, up under underlayment (building paper), etc. To protect against this, we use a "peel-and-stick" rubberized underlayment membrane. This membrane is 36" wide and has a sticky backing. It is applied directly to the roof sheathing and lapped 2-3" at all edges. The sticky backing will seal the entire roof. (We turn the peel-and-stick membrane over the edges of the structure about 2-3" to eliminate "blow-back" moisture that could get in under the membrane. )

Then, the metal roofing can be installed directly on the peel-and-stick membrane. When you nail the metal down (hopefully with concealed fasteners) the shank of the nail (or screw) will get sealed by the rubberized membrane.

You didn't ask, but if you insulate the roof, be careful about venting above the insulation. If you don't insulate the roof, be careful to protect the plywood from the dew point or moisture will accumulate under the peel-and-stick underlayment and rot the plywood.

By the way, if the existing plywood is bad enough that you can step through, then it needs to be replaced (or new plywood can be added over the existing plywood if it's dryrot and not insect infestation.) Dryrot will stop if the moisture is stopped, unlike insect infestation. They seem to just keep coming back.


Freestanding deck - should I use joist hangers or bugle screws to attach joists to the bearers? I'm planning a freestanding deck in the back yard, and I noticed that in this video they suggested that you could use bugle screws instead of joist hangers. Since I don't have a ledger board at either side, this seems a lot simpler, but will they last? Are there any pros or cons I should know about?

For example, will it be ok to stagger the joists at the middle bearer (there will be three bearers). If I'm not using hangers this will be necessary.

The framing timber I'm probably going to use is cypress, so not the hardest wood around.

It depends on your local building codes, but most places in the US, they will insist on the joist hangers.  Joist hangers are far stronger and safer.

They are not that much more trouble, in fact they may be easier to work with.  You can put them in half way, set the jousts in, then finish attaching them.


Does MA require permit to replace old K&T and if no how do I know if work is done to code? Is it required to pull a permit in MA to replace knob and tube wiring? If no, how can one determine if the work done adheres the the proper codes? Who should be sought after to confirm this if no permit was used to do the work? I'm assuming the town inspector would not inspect if there was no permit. That said, would the town inspector come and inspect work if asked, regardless of no permit? Town is Plymouth MA.

For all of the questions you asked: Consult your town's building department (or equivalent if it goes by a different name where you are from).

They should be able to pull the permit history for your home if requested and tell you what type of electrical work requires a permit.

If you find the that work was done without a permit:

If you are solely concerned about safety and do not want to have to worry about an inspector forcing you to tear open your walls if previous work was unpermitted, you can always pay an independent inspector to come look things over as well. Many people have this type of inspection done prior to purchase of the home and these inspections should be able to tell you if the visible elements (e.g. wires at device boxes, electrical panel) look to be done to code which can serve as an indicator of the quality of the work hidden behind the walls. However, "after the work is completed" inspections on electrical can still miss a lot of potential safety hazards even when the visible elements look okay (e.g. splices done directly in the wall -- I personally discovered some of these on my home after having an independent inspection prior to purchase).

A city inspector may require the walls to be ripped open to inspect the previous work because of the limitations of an "after the work is completed" inspection. Some city inspectors may not require this if the visible electrical work appears to be up to code. However, the city inspector can potentially require you to rip open the walls regardless if the work was done without a permit.


How do I install kitchen cabinets? I am thinking of replacing all the cabinets in our kitchen.

What is the process for installing kitchen cabinets? (Ie. best to start in corner, and work out? Top cabinets first?)

Edit:
We have two gaps. One where the stove will be, and another where the dishwasher will be. The dish washer gap will have the counter-top over it.

Measure the ceiling height every foot. It is likely there will be low and high points so you may want to split the difference between the counter and the ceiling (if you're not mounting to the ceiling.

Uppers go in first, primarily because they're hard to install once the lowers are in.

Install a ledgerboard to align and help install the uppers. Get long screws and pre-drill. I really prefer the star-head cabinet screws.

As for the order of install, it depends on your room... do you have a large gap somewhere (like a hood for the range) or do you need filler strips somewhere?

Where will the fillers go? How will your lowers line up with the uppers? Will the gaps be wide enough for your appliances to fit?

The most important part of installing cabinets is planning and prepping.


Will colouring mortar weaken it? My neighbour has recently had some work done to her roof.  The old mortar was red and the new mortar is grey (uncoloured).  So it looks a little silly with both colours present.

She's not very happy about this and when she complained they told her that colouring the mortar would make it weaker and more likely to crumble.

Whilst that sounds feasible it also sounds like an excuse.  Surely the strength of the mortar is down to the ratio & quality of the mix, isn't it?

(The mortar at the front of the house is red, the replaced mortar at the side is not)

What is mortar doing on the roof????  you mean brick siding up to the roof or on the chimney?

Regardless, adding  mortar dye will not weaken the mortar if used properly. I would bet a paycheck that the contractor forgot to add it and is covering his butt. A good contractor would have discussed any concerns with the customer before doing the work. To use a different colored mortar on a repair where visible, sounds pretty incompetent to me.


How to make a reverse bend in a sheet metal box I need to bend sheet metal in a box-like shape, but with one flap in the reverse direction as shown below:

Currently I only have a simple flat brake, however, I don't see how to do this, even if I had a $3000 pan and box brake with fingers.

The only way to do this that I can see is if I could somehow offset the platen from the apron and then put a die base on the platen inside the box, but as I understand it, normal pan brakes don't do that.

Unless you have a brake that has fingers or the clamping bar has removable plates you are still going to have a problem folding the third fold of the other three.

If you are able to do normal four sided box folds then for the reverse flap you would have the option to make a normal box and then attach a separate plate to one side to create the riser flap. This could be attached with welding, spot welding, rivets or sheet metal screws.


Will installing an OSB floor in the attic create moisture problems? I installed some new OSB flooring in my attic. The area it covers is about 160 sq. ft. The total area of the attic is about 750 sq. ft. There is just blown fiberglass up there, and there is no vapor barrier between the fiberglass and the drywall, or between the fiberglass and the OSB flooring I installed.

Will I have problems with moisture collecting under the flooring I installed? If so, what would you suggest to prevent that from happening?

Nope, it shouldn't cause problems with moisture buildup -- but how much blown in fiberglass do you have up there? If it's less than your roof joists, it's not enough, and you should think about adding some (or a lot, actually) to bring you up to R-30 at the least in your attic.

If you do have that much up there, but you moved some to the side to put down the OSB, you committed a minor home improvement sin and you should pull up the OSB, put down some 2x6's crosswise to your rafters, and then put the OSB on top of that.


Household receptacle - For a 2-wire, can I tap the adjacent bond for grounding? I have a 2-wire circuit in my utility closet that I'd like to connect to a receptacle. In the closet is the bonded water & gas pipes. Can I tap into that bond to provide a ground to the receptacle?

They changed the rules in 2014 to greatly liberalize the rules for Retrofitting Grounds.

They did NOT include using water and gas pipes as a substitute for electrical wires.

However, they did allow pulling ground off the Grounding Electrode System, which does include bonds to a water pipe.  So you can bond to the wire, not the pipe.  A split-bolt connector is an easy way to tap a fat bare ground wire.


Solar Power System Circuit Breaker and fuse Amps So the question is kinda part 2 of my question about the DC Output

Today I went to Hellweg (It's like an Electronics shop in Germany/Europe). To buy a Circuit Breaker or Fuse (idk what I am looking for) for my solar system because I saw this pictures below:

and

Now My question is: What Fuse/Circuit size breaker do I buy? Because I went to Hellweg and there are like 1000 of them with different Apmps, Voltage, etc.

Example below of Hellweg stuff:

I have a 100 Watts Solar Panel, 50A Controller, Battery, etc. I read using a wrong circuit breaker and fuse will cause a fire.

What size do I buy to make the my Solar Power System like the diagram?

Updated with Specs:

1) Inverter: Aukey 1000 W
2) Solar Controller: Here
3) Battery: Solar battery 100 Ah C100
4) Solar Panels: One 100W PET Panel

You'll need to read the specs of those breakers to see if any of them can play with DC.  For instance of many lines of breaker used in North America , precious few do (e.g. QO, but those only fit QO panelboards, they are not standard DIN rail like Euro panels).  Speaking of DIN rail, there are loads of designed-for-DC breakers, just at  EE/design type electronics shops  like
Mouser, not home improvement stores (except for the odd nuts like QO).

Also given the loads you want to run, you should really seek ways to run these direct on 12V  DC.  Inverting 12V DC to mains merely to power a wall-wart  that makes 12V DC isn't even stupid. For instance if your TV can't take 12v direct, loads of other  TVs can... get one of those.


C WIRE MISSING, Trane Air-Handler Variable 4TEE3F Can you please tell me which wire/contact can I use as a C wire?


How to remove halogen bulb from protective glass? I have two of these sidelights with RS7 Linear Halogen Bulbs. They are encased in protective glass. Does anyone know how to get the bulb so I can replace please.
Thank you.

This website won't let me upload the photos, so I have added them here...
https://twitter.com/BonfireHeart17/status/1353015669575581696?s=19

Pull those two metal tabs on each side of the glass straight out at the same time. The protective glass should pull off. Then grab the bulb in the center and move it a little to the right or left and pull out. The terminals are spring loaded. Install the new bulbs by inserting one end into the fixture, pushing in slightly and inserting the other end into the other side. Use a cloth to handle the bulb so you don't get body oil on it, that will decrease the life of the bulb. Put the protective glass back on and you're good to go.


Electronic air cleaner vs pleated filters I'm interested in increasing the air flow of my AC system and would like to compare electronic air cleaners (like the Honeywell F300E) to a pleated air filters (I have a 4-inch thick MERV 8 filter).
Do electronic air cleaners, in general, have better air flow than pleated filters?  It sounds like they must be cleaned regularly to work well and maintain good air flow, which makes sense.  Also, it sounds like electronic air cleaners may do a better job of filtering particles.
Are there other pros/cons to consider?
Thanks.

You will still want a particulate filter at the intake, I was taught to put particulate filters at each inlet position this helps keep the ductwork clean and prevent build up in the heat exchanger.
Electronic filters are the next best thing in my opinion but just like a 4” MERV 8 they need to be replaced regularly, the electronic take a few minutes to clean. The mesh grid helps with the particulate matter much like the dust filters at the intake but the air flowing through the mesh takes the air to a discharged level, now the air passes over the high voltage grid and the Remaining dust - pollen , mold spores and even smoke particles are trapped in the static grid.
There is very little resistance to air flow and these are effective at cleaning the air as long as they are regularly cleaned.
My last home I installed this system because of a granddaughter that had severe asthma, this system kept the air in the house clean and inside she never had attacks, I pulled the mesh and grid panels once a month and rinsed them in a shower, it is amazing how much dirt was on them every month. I replaced the 3 pre filters (cheap fiberglass Every 3 months) If I had not seen seen the amount of dirt coming off the electronic grid I would not have beloved how well that system worked, we really noticed when the valley was filled with smoke and my granddaughter was fine inside the house I noticed the system starting buzzing only 2 weeks after cleaning I pulled them and cleaned again they were pulling all the smoke from the fires out of the air I was impressed with how much the system removed from the air, I did run the air handler 24/7 when our granddaughter was with us and she had less need for a nebulizer and fewer trips to the ER so I recommend them for that reason but yes they have less resistance than a high MERV filter.


Can a broken circulation impeller cause a dishwasher not to drain? Problem

I have a Maytag dishwasher (model MDB4100AWW, serial number starting with 12) that does not drain. During the wash and rinse cycles, water enters the dishwasher and sprays. But during the time when it should drain, the dishwasher makes a buzzing sound, but no water drains.

I disassembled it from inside the washer and found that the circulation impeller was broken. The bottom plate of the circulation impeller had separated from the rest of it. The top and blades were still attached, which I guess is why water continues to spray. Here's a photo:

Indeed, after removing the broken circulation impeller, the dishwasher fills but water does not spray, which makes sense.

I will replace the circulation impeller soon, but I don't know if this is the only problem.

See a parts diagram for this dishwasher. My broken impeller is number 14 in that diagram, part 99002069. A separate part is the drain impeller (number 22 in the diagram, part 903304), which I checked and found to be intact.

Things I've tried

Disassembled and cleaned interior washing mechanism; found no problems except broken impeller
Verified that the air gap hose is clear
Ran dishwasher with and without broken circulation impeller
(UPDATE) Removed drain cover and found that the drain impeller looks fine

Things I still need to try

(UPDATE) Replace the broken circulation impeller (hopefully Friday 01-29)
(UPDATE) Install a check ball (week of 02-01). When I removed the drain cover, I found that the check ball was gone. I read on the Interwebz that the check ball can dissolve over many years and go down the drain when it's small enough. I don't know if that's credible, but nevertheless, it's gone, so I ordered a new one that will arrive next week.

Question

Does the circulation impeller have anything to do with draining? Could this broken impeller possibly be the only reason the dishwasher doesn't drain?

The impeller is the main part of the pump. The pump makes the water spray and it also pumps the water out after the wash or rinse cycle has finished. Usually the drain solenoid opens and since the pump is running all the water goes out the drain instead of through the sprayers.

It doesn't drain by gravity since it pumps up to the sink tailpiece or other entry to the plumbing drain system.

Once you repair the pump all should work as normal but you will have to drain it by hand before repairing it or dump the water all over under it when you open it back up.

Note: some dishwashers have two impellers: one to spray the water during the wash cycle, and one to drain the water. Replacing the spray impeller will not fix drainage problems. If your drain impeller is fine, either your drain line is blocked, or your motor has problems.

Good luck with your project!


Why does a system boiler with hot water cylinder not use a diverter valve? I understand that it doesn't need a diverter valve... But I was thinking, couldn't the system be more efficient with one?

For example, the central heating could run at a low temperature (35°-40°) and when the hot water cylinder calls for heat it can go to the necessary 65°-75°.

Why isn't a combi boiler system used that uses the hot water temperature setting for the hot water cylinder and the central heating temperature for the central heating?

Radiators don't put out a lot of heat at that temperature, so you'd need a lot more area, so the heating loop usually runs warmer than you'd really want the hot water cylinder to get up to, so the boiler thermostat setting is a bit of a compromise with a system with no diverter.

Combi boilers that are either heat or HW but not both, often do have different temperature settings for the two modes, determined electronically using a thermistor sensor on the boiler, but regular systems with CH/CH+HW/HW modes selected through a timer plus room and HW tank thermostats, usually have a single mechanical boiler thermostat setting, since the boiler's control system is usually pretty simple and independent of the external control circuitry. On old pilot light boilers, there may not be any electrical circuitry around the boiler at all, just a mechanical thermostat operated gas valve.


How can I clean exterior pebble dashing? The exterior walls of my house mainly consist of pebble dashing. I plan to clean the walls as currently there is a small amount of red dye appearing (I think this is coming from the brickwork underneath). Plus the walls are just starting to get grubby with a little moss and algae.

Is there any specific products or techniques I can use to clean up the pebble dashing?

I doubt brickwork would leach through the typical 1" or more of mortar.  It would have to be something near the surface.

A mild detergent with a mildewcide added should be sprayed on, allowed to soak per directions and then scrubbed lightly, followed by a rinse.  If the red dye comes out, I would use a sealer to help the surface dry off more quickly after a rain and it will keep the walls cleaner.


What's the procedure for stripping wires with pliers? In this answer to this question on stripping wires pliers are mentioned as a tool suitable for that job. I guess it can be done, but I feel quite paranoid about damaging the conductor which is made of rather soft metal and effectively reducing the conductor cross-section which can lead to overheating and possibly fire.

What's the procedure for stripping a wire with pliers without damaging the conductor?

Use your pliers to open the packaging on a 6$ pair of strippers.  This is the ONLY correct answer.


How should I wire an outlet and 2 switches in the same box with a hot white wire? The wiring in this box has me stumped.  I have one outlet and 2 switches, 1 to a vanity 1 to an overhead fan/light. I replaced all the switches and outlets throughout the rest of the house. I had the bathroom and 2 back bedrooms left to switch out.

When I got to the bathroom, I disconnected the outlet and plugs then realized I lost power completely in the 2 other bedrooms and also lost power to a few outlets in the basement. I remember pigtails between the switches but forgot how the rest was wired up.

You're going to have to do some work to figure this out.
I see three cables coming into the box. One of those is the 'feed'. The feed should be whatever is 'hot' if the power is on to the box. You need to find that first and isolate it so you can work safely- cap them. off.

You also said one of the white wires is 'hot'. That's usually only done when making a 'runner', aka a wire that heads to a three-way switch (two or 3 switches can turn on a light). If you ONLY have a white wire as 'hot' when the circuit breaker is on, please stop, as that IS NOT NORMAL. Either way, said white wire SHOULD have a black marker or electrical tape around it to designate 'runner'. It's possible that an earlier wire downstream was flipped around accidentally and you've energized the neutral by accident.

Once you find the hot/neutral pair for the main circuit, the switch needs 2 wires out- hot and runner, the second switch (if it's a single) needs just a single line out, and the outlet needs a hot and neutral.

The outlet will be piggybacked to feed the two switches, most likely. You'll also need to piggy the neutral to the return from the lights so the circuit can be completed.

I know this sounds complicated but it's really important to know what wires are what- and if you aren't comfortable with that or don't have the tools, you need to hire an electrician or find someone that does- especially since you've said a white wire was hot.


Loosening a stuck plumbing valve The question: How can I loosen a stuck (limed-up) plumbing valve?

The full story: Am beginning a bathroom remodel, which will be a full gut job, of a bathroom that hasn’t been touched since the 1950s. I went to shut off the plumbing valves before demolition. The toilet shut-off was stiff but I was able to turn it off. But the hot and cold water shut-offs inside the vanity were stuck tight. An Internet search suggested tapping the handles with a hammer and using a heat gun to loosen them. Neither worked. From what I read online, you’re supposed to turn your plumbing valves a few times a year to keep them from becoming limed up but no one did that in this old (1942) house and my guess is they haven’t been touched in decades.

Finally, I tried something that I’ve seen as a way to clean a limed-up shower head without taking it off. I poured an inch of white vinegar into a plastic sandwich bag, then put the bag around the valve and sealed it with a rubber band. I didn’t really believe it was going to work so I only did the cold water valve. I would have liked to have immersed the whole works in vinegar but couldn’t because the valve assembly is horizontal to the ground and so the vinegar falls to the bottom of the bag. But every few days I “squished” the bag to force the vinegar up around the valve handle and with the bag sealed with a rubber band I hoped to create a vinegar “humidity” inside the bag.

I left it a week and, I’ll be darned, after a week I was actually able to turn the handle -- grudgingly at first but then it loosened up and I was able to shut off the cold water. So then I did the same thing with the hot water valve. But after two weeks, it still wouldn’t budge. So I decided I needed to use something stronger and did the same thing again with CLR instead of vinegar. But after another week, it’s still stuck. The oval valve handle is now deformed from me trying to turn it with a pipe wrench, as you can see in the photo. I don’t care -- it’s all tearout but I’m afraid to put too much force into it for fear I’ll break the fitting and then I’ll have a different kind of problem in the form of a massive water leak.

Does anyone have a suggestion? If I use a screwdriver on the screw in the center of the valve handle and take the handle off will I be better able to force some kind of limescale remover into where it will do some good? Or will that lead to leakage? I’m getting ready to throw in the towel on this one and call a plumber. But I’ve got to tell you, while I have a lot of respect for folks who work the skilled trades, it really grinds my gears to have to call a plumber for something so trivial.

If you can shut off the water to the valve, you can usually take the valve apart and clean it up, re-pack it and put it back together. Or as said above, cut it off and install a new one as you see fit, soldered or shark bite or if threaded, unscrew the old and screw on the new, as this looks from the picture.


How to choose the right wall plug size? I dislike drilling holes, as it irreversibly damages the wall. Therefore I am very careful not to make too much of them. And in the cases I think it is unavoidable, I like to make as tiny a hole as possible. However, I'm not sure which minimal diameter is needed to withstand the force the screw applies on the plug an the wall.

How can I know the optimal size of the plug for a particular purpose? Which factors do I need to take into account?

You need to make the hole the "right" size - neither too big nor too small.

You should choose the size (diameter and length) of screw based on the job you are doing. You should then choose the size of wall plug based on this.

The internal diameter of the wall plug is determined by the size(s) of screw it is designed to take. The external diameter of the wall plus is determined, in part, by the load it's designed to take. A "heavy duty" plug will be bigger than a "light duty" one.

You should then choose the drill bit required to fit the plug snugly. This should be printed somewhere on the packaging. You might find you need to go one drill size larger if you are using the maximum size (diameter) screw recommended for the plug.


Replacing a well pressure tank I have a 19 gallon pressure tank that appears to be waterlogged. When tapping the tank it sounds like it is completely full of water and when running the water in the house the pump cycles constantly. I've purchased a 44 gallon tank to replace the 19 gallon tank. There's 15 faucets in the house (counting sinks, toilets, outdoor faucets, washer, dishwasher...), 19 gallons seemed undersized for our usage. The existing tank doesn't have a cross assembly, the pressure switch is mounted on the side of pump. There doesn't appear to be any relief valve or check valve. The whole thing seems to be wrong.

This is the existing tank--it sits to the right of the pump. The softener is to the left of the pump. The pressure switch connects to that green line. Does this warrant replumbing so that there is a line from the pump to a cross assembly off the bottom of the tank? One that has a check valve, a relief valve, a drain, and a cut-off valve. Something like this

Also, is PVC appropriate in this application?

It may be useful to know that I'm in southeastern North Carolina. This is all housed in a small pump house that stays above freezing in the winter.

That does not look like any well pressure tank I have seen. It looks like something else. Post pictures that include more of the installation so we can see just what is included in your system and how it is piped.


Low Humidity Entire Home Past 3 weeks my humidity is hanging around 17-25 in each room. I see the water draining through the furnace humidifier so water is passing. Any ideas how to raise the humidity to 35-40?

Thanks

I think you need a humidifier. Specially if outside is very cold (below 0°C), relative humidity in heated air gets very low, and your current humidifier can't simply recover all the humidity needed.


Can I install a light between two three-way switches? is it possible to add a light to a three way switch circuit between the two three way switches (ie can i tie into the three wire connecting the two switches in anyway to make them work the new light I've added)?

If you tap into the existing light box: Yes
There you will have the switched power and neutral.
If you try to tap into the triplex running from one of the switches: NO.
There you will only have the travelers and a power.


Existing GFCI outlet wiring to a new switch I want to relocate a GFCI outlet in my kitchen that is currently below my top cabinets to above the cabinets so I can plug in an LED rope light and illuminate above the cabinets. With that being said I wanted to connect a switch to the outlet so I can turn the light off and on.

When I took of the face plate for the outlet I noticed there are 2 sources of power (see pictures). There are two hot wires (black) and each are on their own brass screws. Then same thing for the neutrals but on the silver screws.

So do I have to install a 4 outlet box and put a power source to each of the outlets and then wire the switch to one of the outlets? Or can I put the two black wires together and put it on one brass screw and same for the neutrals?

Then is it a good idea to use a dimmer switch?

While it's possible that the receptacle is split and fed by two sources, it looks like the tab between the terminals is still in place.  This means that one of the cables is likely the supply (from the panel), while the other feeds devices further along the circuit.

If the tabs between the terminals are in place, then it's not fed by two sources.  You can connect the blacks to blacks, the whites to whites, and the grounds to grounds.

From there, I'd suggest installing a combination switch/receptacle. Running a cable up to where you want the new receptacle, and hooking up the new receptacle so it is controlled by the switch.

That way you don't completely lose the existing receptacle, but you still get your switch controlled lighting.

Depending on the device used, the wiring would look something like this.

NOTES:

Since this is a countertop receptacle, it has to be GFCI protected.  If it's not already protected, you'll have to install a combination switch/GFCI receptacle.  In which case, the wiring will be slightly different.


Is a bedframe necessary to keep a boxspring & mattress in good working order? My wife and I managed to get a nice 'pit' in our mattress, after only 3 years of ownership.  We've had it on a boxspring, directly on the carpeted floor.  It's sagged enough that we can feel springs popping and crunching as we move around now.  We're talking about replacing it with a firmer mattress, but I'm wondering if we should be using a bedframe with the boxspring?

A bed frame is at best going to support the box-spring around the edges (perhaps even somewhere in the middle if there is an extra cross member).

If the box spring is on the floor (or a platform bed), then it's supported everywhere. Which in my opinion is better for the mattress. Of course, your wife may dislike the look of it on the floor.

I'd chock it up to either having a very fun 3 years, or poor quality mattress.


Legal requirements for generator installation? I would like to have a standby generator installed for my house. Based on my own assessment of our electrical needs, along with my desire to have a slower-running generator to reduce noise, and my desire to get an adequate generator at the best price, I've made a preliminary choice of the Generac 22kW (RG022). This is the smallest propane-fueled generator in the Generac line that runs at 1800 RPM.

We have been working with a local dealer, who sells both Generac and Kohler products. My initial conclusions have been stymied by some assertions that the dealer has made, but which they have refused to provide documentation for:

They claim that "code" requires that either we install a generator capable of supplying the entire 400 amps that the home's panel could be configured for (the current service is, if I recall correctly, 320A and this is more a by-product of having the service split into two panels, because we have a detached garage with bonus room above, so there is one panel for each building), or we can instead hire an electrician to install a power monitor for a month and then size the generator based on the results of that monitoring.
They claim that, in spite of the statements by the manufacturer (e.g. "Can Be Installed Just 18" From a Structure - Capability to be installed 18 inches away from a structure, ideal for areas with tight lot lines.  Generac’s is the only manufacturer of standby generators to have 18” offset on most of its residential lineup."), we will be required "by code" to locate the generator a minimum of five feet from the building.

I keep putting "code" in quotes because that is literally the only information this dealer has provided to me, even after I ask for a more precise explanation, i.e. for them to provide me with an actual reference to the actual code that imposes these requirements. All they ever say is "that's what code requires".

My question is: are these actual legal requirements for the generator installation? If so, where are these legal requirements documented, and by whom are they imposed?

I guess a follow-up question would be: if these are in fact not legal requirements, what are the ramifications of just selecting and siting the generator according to my own preferences and expectations, instead of following the "requirements" as stated by the dealer?

For example, suppose I've miscalculated at some point, or maybe additional equipment is installed later on — what would happen if more load was put on the generator than its rated to provide? Would there simply be a sag in the voltage on the service from the generator? Or would it actually damage the generator and/or the electrical system in some way?

The house is in Washington State, which I presume affects to at least some degree what codes are applicable.

They claim that "code" requires that either we install a generator capable of supplying the entire 400 amps that the home's panel could be configured for (the current service is, if I recall correctly, 320A and this is more a by-product of having the service split into two panels, because we have a detached garage with bonus room above, so there is one panel for each building), or we can instead hire an electrician to install a power monitor for a month and then size the generator based on the results of that monitoring.

No
Sounds like an effort to "upsell". You can have as small or large a generator as you want. Quite often a generator will be sized for critical loads (e.g., refrigerator, air handler for furnace) + a couple of convenience circuits. Or "everything but the air conditioning and the electric dryer". Or anything in between. Or "everything".
It is entirely up to you. Just understand that if you put in a generator that can't handle "everything" and then try to use it for "everything", you will run into trouble. Which might take the form of "generator turns itself off because it is overloaded" - and then you have nothing running at all.

They claim that, in spite of the statements by the manufacturer (e.g. "Can Be Installed Just 18" From a Structure - Capability to be installed 18 inches away from a structure, ideal for areas with tight lot lines. Generac's is the only manufacturer of standby generators to have 18" offset on most of its residential lineup."), we will be required "by code" to locate the generator a minimum of five feet from the building.

Maybe
There may be some truth to that. A state, county or local building code may place additional requirements that override the manufacturer's minimum requirements. Or they may be citing old requirements that have been superseded by Generac's 18" capability and they just don't know it. Or they may be just making it up - e.g., perhaps to try and sell you on a separate pad for the generator instead of being able to use concrete already in place next to your house.


Can I cap the air return in my unfinished basement? I noticed today that there is a massive air return in my unfinished basement. The opening is about 2 meters from the blower, and as large in diameter as the return duct coming from the upstairs. This makes me think that the furnace is pulling most of its air from that intake rather than from the upstairs rooms. Also, the supply vent in the basement blows very hard compared to the upstairs rooms.

Will capping off this return or limiting the basement's supply vent cause any problems for the equipment, or lower efficiency?

The previous person answering your question does not have a sufficient understanding of HVAC systems. For the past fifteen years, I have been working on such systems five days a week. I have learned a few things about such systems.

As long as you have more than one return in your home, capping one return will not damage your system in any way. I set up some homes to have a single return on the main floor. And in other homes, I install as many as five returns. If you have only one or if you have five returns, the volume of air being returned is the same. It is difficult to imagine than any duct work is so bad that only having a single return would cause any issues. If that is the case, the systems in many of the homes in which we have only installed one return should have had numerous issues. But that is not the case.

During the summer, leave your basement returns open. That allows for the cool air from the basement to be pumped into the upper stories. When it is chilly outside, still leave your basement return closed. If it is open, it means that your heat pump is having to also warm the cold air from your basement. But when things are reversed and the temperature drops into the tens or the single digits, keep the basement return open. At that point, you basement is warmer than the rest of the house because the basement atmospheric ground temperature is warmer than the cold air seeping into your home. Limiting your system to only one or two air returns will not overload system and will not damage your duct work in any way. That is simply a myth.


Is it possible to varnish a section of of wooden floor? We have three small areas on our floor that needs to be varnished

Everything i have read is to get an electric sander and remove the varnish from the entire floor.

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/mar/01/diy.homes24

Is it possible to varnish a single small section of the flooring and if so is there a way to blend in the colors?

You can certainly varnish a section or a spot. Far better than leaving it bare, if it is, where it will just get harder to fix while you wait - even if it does not match at all.

Making it blend is more trouble, though some of that can be helped by "just using it" rather than worrying about about it when it's freshly redone and the rest of the floor isn't - it will be far less noticeable after a month's wear, in most cases.

Since you mention "colors" I'm a bit concerned that you are dealing with not just varnish (which may vary from water-clear to various amber-yellow colors depending on formulation) but stain, which is a lot harder to match.


What are the pros/cons of installing floors before doors? I've heard contractors say to install doors first then flooring, and others suggest the opposite. I'm installing new 3/4" prefinished flooring and new doors/closets (prehung wood/ primed white). What are the advantages/disadvantages to installing the doors after the floors? What sequence would result in the best finish?  Thanks

I like to put the flooring in first. If you're working on the last row against a wall with a door in it, and you have to cut a piece that's half strip against the wall for half its length, and a full strip in the doorway, it's easier to get it into place if the jamb isn't in the way. It also means you can get the fit better at the  bottom of the door jambs, without needing to use a flush-cut saw to trim the jamb before you can fit a floorboard under it, or ending up with a gap between the jamb and the floorboards.

As far as cons, I guess putting the doors in first means less activity in the room once the floors are in place, and thus less risk for dropping a hammer and marring  the floor, or tracking dirt across the finished surface.


Primer for old oil-based paint I'm confused and hope you can help.  I thought ANY primer - I just bought five gallons of Kilz latex primer - could be used over old oil-based paint and then a new coat of latex paint applied successfully.  Today, per Home Depot recommendation I bought a gallon of the oil-based Kilz for a couple of small jobs.  I thought I'd read that latex primer over oil-based paint is just fine.  Please help.

You can overcoat over any old paint if these things are true:

The paint is fully cured (which can take up to a year or two for single-can paints which rely on air or atmospheric moisture to cure.)   Curing is not the same as drying.  Curing is the paint molecules "holding hands", polymerizing into much longer molecules.
You scuff-sand the old paint so the surface has microscopic ridges and valleys ("tooth"), a Scotchbrite pad will suffice, this will remove the gloss from the paint.  Be careful not to blow through corners and ridges.
You clean the surface thoroughly to remove grease, oil, dirt and the like.  Especially important in kitchens!

Classically one might use TSP (Tri-Sodium Phospate) to attempt to both clean greases and etch the surface.

Where does primer enter the picture?

You want a primer over bare material.  Original oil Kilz is high-performing over wood.  It's not the very best; that's a marine 2-part epoxy primer.  Over aluminum or steel you'd want a zinc chromate primer (the classic green color of unpainted aircraft), over steel I just tend to go Rustoleum.
When you have dissimilar surfaces or colors, and you want to normalize them so they don't "print through".
If your topcoat doesn't want to stick to the surface as-is, this is called a barrier coat.

If you don't have any of those situations, a primer may not be needed.

I am no fan of the Kilz latex primer; I feel the oil-based product is far more suitable for wood.  Perhaps the Kilz latex makes sense over drywall; you certainly do need a primer for that.


Is there a way to fix a polyurethane mistake? I had a unfinished pine table custom built.  I loved the natural color so much that I didn't want it to change, but knew I had to protect it.  I got the clear satin finish Miniwax polyurethane.  I did one coat and loved it...but the guy at the store said I'd need to do 2 coats to be on the safe side.  Now my table looks yellow.  How do I fix this?  Will I have to sand the whole thing and start over?  Is there any way I could do a tinted stain on top of it now?  Or again, will I have to sand the whole thing?  I'm trying to figure out the easiest way out and still achieve the natural color I had to begin with.

There are almost no finishes that are totally colorless (although poly does have a slight yellow tinge, more than some other finishes). Also, most wood changes color over time with exposure to light and oxygen (typically getting darker).

Frankly 2 coats of polyurethane is only the bare minimum. Particularly if this is a kitchen or dining room table that will get a lot of wear, you will want it to be durable. (Maybe for a side table 2 coats would be OK). If this were my table I would say put a 3rd coat on it and leave it for a few months to see how you feel about it. It's not going to be any easier to strip & sand it now, so you might as well see how it ages.

If you do refinish, maybe try a water-based acrylic, that will be almost colorless. There are many sites online that compare the various types of wood finishes, e.g.: http://www.diynetwork.com/home-improvement/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer/index.html


How to remove tape residue? I have duct tape, masking tape and brown tape residue on walls, vinyl and skirting board.  Will water and a microfiber cloth be sufficient to remove them or what will I need to do.  I prefer avoiding harsh chemicals as they make me unwell.

thanks.

Water won't touch most of those tape remains, sorry.

Do you have other people who can do this for you, while you spend a day away from the smells at home?

First option is a citrus based cleaner, which tends to have a sweeter and more-pleasant smell.  Normally these are Orange-based.

Something like acetone or isopropyl alcohol have an odour which should dissipate fairly quickly.  Avoid using kerosene or turpentine because their smells linger longer.

The main risks are of damage to the underlying surface.  If you're cleaning in order to repaint, then that's less of an issue.  Start with the "more-gentle" solvents and work up.

Once the tape residues are softened, you might be able to scrape them off with a blunt scraper (not a razor-blade)

And in the future, consider other ways to hang things on your walls that aren't tape?   Magnets can be good if you have metal in the wall though are a risk to babies, pets and children.


Small amount of water in chimney after rain This morning I woke up to find water in the bottom of our chimney.
We have no fire, the gas cowl is still in place, the flaunching and flashing are quite new. It's a metal cowl that is a cylinder with horizontal slots.
I looked up into the fire place and can see water in the ledge at the bend and I'm firmly sure I saw a drop come down from above onto that ledge.
I can't see anything else inside the house and having seen the drip come down it seems to be inside the fireplace.
The amount of water at the bottom is quite small, about a spoonful.
Any ideas what I need to check?

As long as your chimney cap (I assume that's what you describe as a 'cowl'?) is in place, you are probably fine.

Although chimney caps are designed to keep out rain and critters, they can't fight the occasional sideways rain drop. The little amount of water that enters the chimney from those atmospheric anomalies won't hurt a thing. Short of completely blocking off the chimney with a weathertight cap (not possible if you use it with gas appliances, as you stated), just keep truckin.


Sealing a tilt type garage door I've got a tilt type garage door with gaps on the side. I've sealed the top and bottom, but I'm not sure what to do with the sides.

I've googled a bit and it turns out that it's recommended to just replace the entire door, but that's not an option right now.

I looked into brush seals, but I want something that seals not just against weather but also noise. Also the brush seals had mounting issues as there's no proper room for mounting them inside nor outside.

I've tried regular foam strips (barely seen in photos as black stripes) but they were brushed away and did not work. I have fairly huge large which varies in width 0.1-0.5cm.

So I was pondering maybe to use some kind of silicone or polyurethane to seal up the gaps. Of course that would stick to the door as well, and then I wouldn't be able to open it. I thought of some silly ideas to get around that but I want to avoid a mess. I'd first like to hear what the DIY community thinks I should do.

They make a brush seal that you can screw onto your garage door.  This should accomplish what you want.


Do 2 bulbs with 500 lumens provide the same illumination as one with 1000 lumens? When calculating the illumination in a room, do I simply add up the lumen value of the individual bulbs, or is the equation more complicated?

Do 2 bulbs with 500 lumens provide the same illumination as one with 1000 lumens?

I agree with our local Retired Master Electrician's answer but if you want to put on your physicist's hat, the answer is no.

You need to understand (at least in a basic way) the difference between

Illuminance (Lux)
Luminous Intensity (Candela)
Luminous Flux (Lumens)

Lumens are a measure of luminous flux not of illuminance (which is closest to what you probably mean by illumination).

Two 500-lumen bulbs might produce very different values of Illuminance as one 1000-lumen bulb.

Two 500-lumen bulbs produce the same luminous flux as one 1000-lumen bulb.

If you were specifying some office space and needed to meet some regulations, you'd need to understand these distinctions.

If you are a home-owner choosing between light fittings or bulbs made 8,000 miles away, it is likely that this sort of distinction is unimportant to you.

You can buy light-meters that measure illuminance. I suppose an old-school photographer's light-meter makes a reasonable substitute.

The marketing departments of different manufacturers/distributors lie in different ways and different light-fittings are likely to make a difference to illuminance.


How effective to use zinc strip to prevent roof moss I live in Seattle.  My 6 years old composite shingles start to grow moss this year.

I read one post on YouTube that you can use a long zinc strip placed on top of your roof to prevent moss. I am wondering how effective it is.  Another post mentioned that one strip can stop moss growing for about 15 feed down, so I need a few more strips to make whole roof protected.

Any thoughts and experiences?

Yes, it works - although most recommendations I've seen prefer zinc to copper (both more effective and cheaper).  In fact, you see it all the time on older roofs underneath galvanized roof fixtures.  For example, my neighbor's house:

Basically, each rain washes metalic zinc down the roof and basically prevents any growth and lasts for decades.  Copper does the same thing, although in that case it would be copper oxide washing down the roof.  Note that if the house is brick, you should go with the zinc - copper oxides react with periclase in bricks and can cause damage.

If you want some more reading, there's a short piece on the Oregon State website.