Using automotive R134A in my refrigerator? Can I use automotive R134A in my refrigerator without damaging anything?

The only difference is the thread on the automotive is different, they made the change to prevent shop mechanics from using the wrong type of Freon. Both auto and hvac r134 are chemically the same. I can usually find the automotive 134 a bit cheaper but legally it requires a licence. This sounds crazy when you think that air horns, freeze spray and canned air dusters are r134 but to put in an AC system it requires a license where all those other uses just dump Freon in the atmosphere but that is the law.


Why is my AFCI breaker tripping and my surge protector clicking? I've really got two possibly related issues here. We have a basement office that we wired ourselves. Code required that we put in an AFCI breaker. From what I've read these can be pretty temperamental and that has been the case with us. The breaker will trip as often as once a day but it is usually less often. We replaced the original AFCI breaker and for about a month after we were good. However, now it has started tripping often again.

I have a surge protector hooked up on one outlet with a PC and monitor attached. It is the kind of surge protector with the master outlet that can control the other devices so they turn on/off when the master device turns on/off. I've noticed that anytime we run the garbage disposal upstairs and also at many random times throughout the day, the surge protector will make a clicking sound, like the power has come on/gone off of the main device (the PC). The PC isn't turned on.

Any ideas what might be going on here, both with the breaker flipping and/or the surge protector clicking? I know we have mixed wiring of 15A (14 gauge, white) and 20A (12 gauge, yellow). The AFCI breaker itself is 15A. Could either of those be a possible problem or does it sound like this is something else? Bad outlet(s) along the circuit?

I've had some issues with AFICs in  the past, and one quick thing you should check (which ended up being my problem):
Is the insulation on the wire coming into the outlet box pinched and causing a loose/flaky connection? That will still give power to the outlet (under a normal breaker) and won't trip a normal breaker, but it'll drive an AFCI nuts.

Another technique you can try to debug this is by swapping in a GFCI breaker, and see if that trips too. If the GFCI trips, it's a grounding problem. If it only trips on the AFCI, then there's arcing somewhere along the circuit. Check junction boxes, the outlet boxes and the connections to the plugs in the boxes.

Happy & Safe Debugging!


Full Swivel TV Mount on Vertical Studs I am trying to mount our new 60 inch TV onto a wall.  The studs behind the drywall in the particular area are horizontal and there is too much space in between to mount into the studs.  I cut 2x8s and secured them into the studs vertically in front of the drywall. Will this be okay to hold the weight of the TV (50lbs) and the full motion swivel mount (20lbs)?

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

It sounds like maybe there used to be a window where you're putting the TV, is that possible?  That would explain the framing you're hitting.

Anyway - it sounds like you put 2x8s from the top of what used to be the window to the bottom.  This will be more than enough support, as long as the 2x8s were attached with big screws, lag screws, lumber screws, etc.


Is mortar waterproof? I was advised by a professional that mortar is waterproof, however sources online are telling me that it's not.

So is mortar waterproof or not? Does waterproofness vary by mortar classification (e.g. M1, M2, M3 etc.)?

Mortar is not waterproof. However, there are products that can be applied to mortar (and other concrete materials), that can make the mortar waterproof.


Lights out in part of the house I read the post about a similar problem but we have circuits on both even and odd sides of the panel that are down. We've had flickering lights for about a month now and finally it's caused and outage. The crazy part is... the power has come back on twice and both times within an hour. The house was built in 1950 and I think a common neutral is loose somewhere in a J box. Any suggestions?

I'm a little confused by "lights out in part" vs. "caused an[d] outage". If you have really had everything go out ("outage"), then this is definitely "call utility" time. If you measure the voltage (when things are working...) and see an imbalance - e.g., 140V on one circuit and 90V on another - then it is definitely "call utility" time.

Do you have a multimeter that you can test voltage? If so test outlets on both sides and see if you get consistent results. If you have a neutral problem it may actually be at meter or outside and is then a utility problem. I suggest calling the utility and telling them you have "intermittent outage and possibly a lost neutral". They should come out quickly to investigate. If the problem is on their side they will normally fix at no charge. If they determine it is on your side then you will need to call an electrician to diagnose a panel problem.

CALL THE UTILITY FIRST!

From what you've described (not 100% clear), it may really be a panel problem. But the problem sounds "big" enough that it could really be a utility issue. If you call the utility and they determine everything is OK up to the panel, there will generally not be any charge (they are concerned because these are potential life-safety issues and will normally send someone to check without any charge).


Is it OK to use motor oil instead of household oil for hardware lubrication? I was about to buy a bottle of 3-in-1 for random stuff around the house, but I realized I have motor oil in the garage already.

Is there any harm in using, say, 5W30, for door hinges or whatever?

I use regular oil as well for things like you are asking. I would get a small pump oil can to help dispensing the oil. On hinges, to keep the mess down, remove the pin, coat it in oil, let the excess run off and reinsert the pin. You could still run a little over the surface of the hinge barrel but obviously you will need to keep a wipe rag handy.


stuck screw now stripped when trying to remove outdoor faucet handle My outdoor faucet is leaking. I was trying to remove the handle so I could replace the washers. I could not get the screw to budge. Now I have stripped the stuck screw. What do I do?

You could drill a small hole straight into the screw from above and use a screw extractor (or "ez-out"), it can be a difficult operation with varying degrees of success depending on experience and skill.

Or you could break off the handle, you could then get a grip on the protruding screw with pliers to remove it. The problem is you may or may not be able to procure a replacement handle.
You should probably start looking at replacing the entire faucet just in case your efforts to remove the screw are unsuccessful.


Box Fill for Line Voltage Thermostat I know that normally a receptacle or device in the gang box counts as 2 conductor volumes. Does a line voltage thermostat just count the same as any other device? I'm replacing an old mechanical 240V thermostat with a programmable digit one (Honeywell TL8230A1003) and I've found that this new thermostat takes up significantly more space in the gang box than the old one and it is a very tight fit. Does the box fill calculation account for a device like this differently?

The thermostat is on a 20A breaker and 12/2 wire is coming into the box. There is also 12/2 wire going to heater and 12/2 wire going to another thermostat/heater for a total of 6 conductors. The 3 bare grounds count as another conductor and then the thermostat as 2 for a total of 9 conductors. This would indicate that I need a 9 * 2.25 = 20.25 cu. in. gang box unless the thermostat somehow counts as more.

Does the box fill calculation account for a device like this differently?

No. The Code does not distinguish between particular devices.

If the device is yoke mounted it requires a double volume allowance of the largest conductor attached to it in the box.

Here is the pertinent 2014/2017 National Electrical Code Article:

  314.16(B)(4) Device or Equipment Fill.  For each yoke or strap containing one or more devices or equipment, a double volume allowance in accordance with Table 314.16(B) shall be made for each yoke or strap based on the largest conductor connected to a device(s) or equipment supported by that yoke or strap. A device or utilization equipment wider than a single 50 mm (2 in.) device box as described in Table 314.16(A) shall have double volume allowances provided for each gang required for mounting.

If the device was surface mounted (like the old bi-metallic style probably was) on the outside of the box, or is not technically "yoke mounted" then this requirement does not apply.

Your conductor count looks good. According to Table 314.16(A) the deepest 3" x 2" device box is only good for 18.0 cubic inches or 8-#12 wire count.

So, to be Code compliant, you would need to remove the pass-thru conductors and make those joints elsewhere, or change the box to a 4" x 1 1\2" square with a single gang plaster ring, or they make some single gang boxes with an expansion on the side that may have enough volume.


Is there a more visually discreet alternative to a range hood? Is there a more visually discreet alternative to a range hood for ventilation? Maybe a system in the wall that sucks in odors, etc?

Retractable Downdraft Range Hoods:

(source)

(source)

Inset Downdraft Range Hood:

(source)


Geothermal dog bowl heater/cooler I live near Denver, where we have winters cold enough to freeze an outdoor dog bowl, and summers hot enough to make the water warm (not hot enough to be a problem, but cold water always tastes better on a hot day).

My thought is to rent an auger and dig a 10-12" diameter hole down 6-8 feet, then run a loop of PEX down to the bottom. The loop would be either just straight down and back up (easy) or a sort of helix (more surface area). Then I'd fill the dirt back in, put a small pump in the line, and do some sort of heatsink against a metal dog bowl.

Come winter, the goal is to keep the water warm enough not to freeze. Come summer, cooler than it would be just sitting out.

Think it's feasible? Would a 6-8' deep hole give enough heat transfer?

It's an intriguing proposition, but no. You wouldn't move enough heat with a small loop like that. Geothermal systems move a very large volume of water to extract a relatively small energy differential.


Where did all the water in the basement come from. I'm looking at an REO property that has been "winterized" and I am a little concerned about the conditions in the basement. There is roughly 3" of water ( ice ) in the basement. The furnace and hot water heater are on blocks so it did not reach them. There is a sump so clearly the basement has water issues. The walls are cinderblock, and although it appears to be up pretty high, it's impossible to tell where the water table is. I Though perhaps the "winterization crew" just opened the water heater and water tank, and that is where the water cam from. or perhaps a pipe did break before the winterization, but I would think id that were so it would be more than 3".

My concerns are this ... where did the water come from,
Do I have to worry about damage to the structure from the water if it's frozen
If I go through with the purchase how do I remove / keep the water out of the basement until I can get the electric turned on?

From the efflorescence on the walls, I'd bet there's slow steady seepage through the blocks and the mortar.  The only solution for this would be an external entrenching and wrap.

Also:


Convert line voltage heating system to use low voltage thermostats I currently have two line voltage ceiling radiant heating systems in my condo each with their own DPST thermostat. I'd like to use low voltage thermostats such as the nest. I found this transformer/relay, but it only has 3 wires. Will this work with a system designed to use DPST thermostats? If not, is there something else out there that will allow me to use low voltage thermostats with line voltage heaters?

The device you linked to will work. You are essentially converting to a SPST "thermostat" from your current DPST thermostat. Some people feel a SPST thermostat is dangerous because the heating device is always connected to a hot leg of the power mains. Both legs are disconnected with a DPST device. Yet this SPST practice is common and acceptable in many jurisdictions. It's quite safe, there is no way to contact energized components in a proper installation. And when the heat is on, all components are energized under either system, and yet it's still safe.

The only conceivable danger is if someone assumes it is a DPST system and foolishly attempts to work on the heater without turning off the power at the breakers. If you're OK with this marginal increase in risk, check with your local building authority, ask them if you can use a single pole line thermostat on a 240 volt (assuming US/Canada voltage system) resistive heater. The remaining details aren't pertinent.

If all is OK, the device's installation instructions are fairly clear on how to hook up both 2 and 3 wire low voltage thermostats. Just ensure you order the correct device for your heater's voltage and power or current rating. To be safe, the device rating should be 125% more than your heater's actual power or current draw.

If you or your building authority do not like SPST type installations, you should be able to find a similar relay that is DPST, even if you have to supply the transformer separately. Any possible solution will certainly involve some combination of transformer and relay, it's just a question of packaging and proper ratings.


What's the bracket used to fix a kitchen faucet called? I've got a broken kitchen tap/faucet, and it's because there is a plastic bracket that fits under the sink that has broken.

I need to know the name of it because I can't search for a replacement without knowing the correct search term!

It's got a 30MM hole in it and is otherwise triangular; it fits here (excuse the ascii art!)

   //==\\
   ||
   ||
   ||
  +||+      <-- faucet
----------  <-- sink level
  ||||      <-- plastic bracket goes here
  ----      <-- metal plate

This is the rough shape;

  <-------------------->
    \       ___       /
      \    /   \    /
        \  \___/  /
          \     /
            \_/

This is from an automotive store but it's the same thing: retaining washer.

(source)


Will an electronic air filter harm my furnace? If I install a furnace-mounted, electronic air filter, like this one,

will it harm my furnace due to reduced air flow?  How will I know if it reduces air flow too much?

You'll have to find a unit that can match the required intake air flow of the furnace.

Estimating required air flow.

To estimate the required amount of air the furnace needs, you'll have to know what type of furnace you have, and how many BTUs the furnace is rated for.  Once you have this information, you'll divide the furnaces rated BTU value by 10,000.

100,000 BTU / 10,000 = 10

Next you'll multiply that value by the CFM/10,000 BTU value for your type of furnace.

Natural Draft Furnace = 100 CFM/10,000 BTU.
Induced Draft Furnace = 130 CFM/10,000 BTU.
Condensing Furnace = 150 CFM/10,000 BTU.

130 * 10 = 1300 CFM (Cubit feet per minute)

So if you had a 100,000 BTU induced draft furnace, you'd need a filter with at least an output of 1300 CFM.

As the filter gets dirty, air flow will naturally be restricted. Because of this, you'll want to choose a filter system with a higher CFM rating than you need. In our example above we wouldn't want to get a unit that is rated at 1300 CFM, we'd want one rated somewhere closer to 1400 or 1500 CFM.

Measuring Air Flow

You can determine the actual air flow using a handheld Anemometer, like this one

Start by measuring the area of the duct (Length * Width). Next measure the air speed using the anemometer (ft/min). Finally multiply the area of the duct by the air speed.

(20" * 25" = 500 sqin.) / 144) = 3.47 sqft.
3.47 sqft. * 375 ft/min = 1301.25 CFM

To determine if the air filter is restricting air flow, calculate the CFM both with and without the filter connected.

Watching for signs of reduced flow.

If you notice any of the following problems after installation, you likely have restricted the air flow too much.

Furnace has trouble producing a flame, or flame is small.
Furnace constantly overheats.
Furnace struggles to keep up with heating demand.
Output air flow is weak and/or cold.


Can a motion sensor switch be installed as part of a pair of switches? I have a switch to my hallway by my garage. The other switch is by my stairs. I have had a motion sensor on the switch by the garage for about 15 years and it worked fine.
It finally broke so I replaced it and now the new one will not work. I cannot even use the manual switch to turn it on and off.

I bought a cheaper one (about $17) whereas the previous one was around $30. Is it possible that some switches are not designed to be part of a pair? How can I tell? I don't mind getting the $30 one, but I wanted to be sure.

The behavior is that if I use the non-sensor switch, I can turn the lights on and off in the normal fashion. But the motion sensor switch just acts like it doesn't work, no matter what position the other switch is in. I do see the blinking blue light telling me the motion sensor switch is working, but it doesn't. I have double-checked the both wires and the ground. All are connected solidly.

Am I wasting time? Are some switched just not designed to work in pairs?

Your switches and lights are wired in a "three way" configuration, so you need a three way motion sensor switch.

For example: the Eaton OS306U, although there are a variety on the market and they do start around $22.

Important things to note:

You probably need a model rated for "No Neutral Required", depending on the wiring to that box by the garage.
If you use Florescent or LED lighting make sure that the switch is rated for it (most newer ones are).
Make sure that the switch is rated for the lighting load you have.  Most such switches are rated for 5 amps / 600 watts.  If you have more light than that, you need a pricier switch.
It sounds like the current switch might be miswired.  Consult an electrician if you are not 100% sure.
Good photos of the switch and wiring, posted in your question, help us give more specific and tailored answers.


Should galvanized steel pipe be used as a tub spout? I have a 90 degree fitting coming down from my shower valve.  Also have a screw on tub spout trim.  Right now there is a 6" galvanized pipe that connects the 90 to the tub spout trim.  Is the galvanized steel the best practice for this (or even code)?  If galvanized steel is bad let me know how to fix it before I grout and caulk that area.

I remove galvanized pipe whenever possible.  A brass nipple will be a much longer term connection, due to much lower reactivity to water caused corrosion.

However, if the plumbing elsewhere is galvanized, it may only be a symbolic gesture.


What is this bell-shaped, cast iron plumbing part? I have old galvanized steel plumbing. What exactly is this pictured part called and what's its function? This is cold water and leads to a faucet of a utility sink.

It's probably an anti-hammer air chamber, although I can't seem to find any photos of similar devices from the era to confirm this. Its purpose is to absorb shock from fluid hammer, caused by momentum in the water stream, which can cause result in annoying banging noise and, potentially, damage to the plumbing or connected fixtures.


Is it worth refilling these fire extinguishers or should I just throw out? please help me decide what to do with these old fire extinguishers - are they worth re-filling
thank you

Depends if it's disposable or refillable. Many cheaper extinguishers are disposable (only) and not designed to be refillable. After that it's just math (cost of service, possibly including hydro testing, .vs. cost of replacement extinguisher.)


Why is my dryer turning off mid-cycle and staying off for 30-60 minutes? My dryer recently started turning off during its cycle (after 20-30ish minutes), including the (digital) control panel being completely unresponsive. After 30-60 minutes, it will work again normally and shut off.

The dryer is a Samsung DV350AEG/XAC 04.

I've read this is indicative of a motor failure, but I'm not clear on the reason or why this is causing the control panel to go dead also (as opposed to indicating an error code of some sort).

Here's the wiring diagram:

I've checked:

Heater circuit overall resistance is ~9Ω (measured between (2) and (3))
TH2 and TH3 cut-offs seem to be okay, at ~0Ω (measured between (1) and (2))
Motor circuit overall resistance is ~2.08Ω (measured between (4) and (7) with door closed), however immediately after it malfunctioned I measured it at 2.4Ω
TH1 cut-off seem to be okay, at ~0Ω (measured between (5) and (6))
Door switch is functioning properly
Voltage is fine (L1-L2 is ~240V, L1 or L2 to N or G are ~120V, and N to G is 0V)

I did find an shocking amount of lint in the bottom, but the motor itself certainly wasn't coated to the point I would think it would overheat. I cleaned all of this out (used compressed air for the motor windings) but it's still cutting out.

Is there anything else I should check?

Yes, Check the vent pipe all the way to the end where it exits the building. You will most likely find that it is stuffed with lint to the point of restricting the air flow from the dryer to the outdoors. Restricted air flow will cause the inside of the dryer to overheat and then some type of safety cutout or thermal breaker is opening up the power circuit. The 30 to 30 minutes you are seeing is likely the time it takes for things to cool back down enough for the thermal cutout to reset itself.

If the vent pipe is clear you should feel a nice brisk flow of warm damp air coming out the end of the dryer vent.

I had this problem when I moved into my house. Some 15 feet of vent pipe was totally stuffed and I had to do a major amount of unstuffing and running a rotary brush up the pipe on a flexible shaft. I also ended up adding a new larger style vent end flap on the pipe on the side of the house wall that integrated a removable plastic grille. Now I just have to look at that once every 3-4 months and get up there and clean it out.


Help adding relay for thermostats My nest thermostats are missing a common wire which means they’re not getting enough power to work properly. I actually didn’t realize this until an electrician told me about it (it hadn’t become a problem yet), but now it has and I brought him back in since he indicated he could do the work for $100 which seemed pretty reasonable. It turns out I need to add a new relay and now the price has gone way up so I’m going to try doing it myself.
I’m hoping someone can help me understand why I need a new relay and if this is something I can reasonably do myself. I’ve done some limited electrical work, but this is a bit advanced for my experience. If someone can help me better understand this system I imagine it’s something I could do myself, but perhaps it’s better left to a professional?
The white-coated wire here is a new wire since one of the two zones was a two wire and had to be replaced. There are actually three zones here, but I am only using nest thermostats on two of them at the moment (but it couldn’t hurt to future proof it). The two pre-existing ones are hot-water heat and the one I’m adding is steam heat. The brown-coated wires already have three wires. The green wire is being used as the common wire.
Here is the setup
High level view of the side - the brown and white wires are coming in from above. You can see the existing relay and transformer here.

relay

transformer and you can also see here there’s a Honeywell box that the white and red wires on the bottom of the relay run to - I’m guessing that’s for the hot water heat?

That brown wire that runs to the Honeywell part (not sure what that is?) then runs along with the white wire to the oil burner here:

Some additional images in case there’s anything I missed:

I would try connecting the C-wire to the existing 24V COM terminal on the relay and seeing if it works
Your relay, thankfully, makes its C (Common) connection accessible (not all HVAC relay modules of that nature do).  So, given that your Taco's transformer secondary is rated at 15VA (as per the label on the transformer) and the Nest only pulls about 5VA of power, based on this document, the Nest shouldn't have any issue working with your relay once that C wire's hooked up.


How do I get power into my kitchen cabinet? I'm trying to run power for some under-cabinet LED strip lighting. I think the easiest way is to tap into the stove hood, so my question is: how do I do this in a way that is legal and meets code (preferably without tearing apart cabinets/walls)?

Here's the cabinet:

I need to plug in an IRLinc (3-prong plug), the transformer, and the PWM dimmer controller. I'll also have low-voltage 12V wire exiting out both left and right sides into the adjacent cabinets.

The white box in the center is just some MDF that is covering the vent pipe:

The power for the hood comes in from the wall:

Can I run a piece of BX or conduit up to a surface mount box secured to the back of the cabinet? Is it legal to use the vent hood as a junction box (note there's normally a metal cover over those wires)? Any better suggestions?

UPDATE:

BX worked fine. I cut out a big hole because I needed room to be able to put the hood in place with the BX connected, and I left a big loop so there is room to pull the hood down a bit before disconnecting the wire.

I'd use the range hood box as a junction box.  It meets the code definition of accessible:

Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building.

And in most places should pass just fine.  I'd use BX because that MDF hood cover is rather easily removable, and treat the wiring to the new outlet as 'exposed'.


How are washing machine intake valve solenoids controlled? This is something I got curious about in the course of diagnosing this issue.
Our washing machine has a couple of electronically controlled valves on its intake (I believe they're called "solenoid valves").  Based on observing the flow of water into the block above the detergent/conditioner drawer, they each appear to be able to function in two modes:

A "full bore" mode, where water gushes into the machine and shoots into the channels above the drawer and from there down into its compartments.
A "trickle" mode, where the valve is presumably partially open and the flow is much less.  It seems to be deliberately restricted so that the flow falls down at back of the drawer, bypassing the detergent/conditioner compartments.

Each valve seems to be used in both modes at some point in the longer machine programmes.  Typically both are opened fully simultaneously to fill for the final rinse.
When I first saw the "trickle" being used, I initially assumed the valves must be sticking, but it's used with exactly the same timings each cycle and seems to be quite intentional.
My questions are:

What voltage do these things typically operate at?

How is the valve's flow-rate controlled, given they seem to be capable of more variation than simply on/off?  Is it via the voltage level, or the polarity, or something else?  (There are only 2 wires going to each solenoid).

Googling around finds me a lot of replacement parts for sale, but I cannot find any concrete specifications for any of them which would actually answer the above!
Here's a picture (the machine is an AEG L69480VFL, but the parts for most machines look so similar I'm guessing they all operate in a similar manner).

Update: I found an image on a spare parts site of what I am pretty sure is the same valve.  I think that makes it clear what the voltage is: AC mains level.  Although, if it is AC, that makes it more mysterious how each valve seems to be able to support two different flow levels though.  (Will definitely now take this one to Elec.Eng SE, as suggested in comments below).

Update: In response to a comment on an answer below...
The pattern of valve operation on the machine's shortest wash cycle is (left/right as looking at the machine from the front):

Fully open left hand (green topped) valve.  Water flows to right hand side of the plastic block above the drawer, which squirts it leftwards to the channels above the detergent compartment.

Apparently partially open right hand (brown topped) valve (or if it's not the valve partially opening, something else is acting to restrict the flow to less than it can be).  Water has insufficient pressure to get into the channels above the conditioner compartment (I think this is "by design") and drops down at the back of the drawer to fill the machine.  However with our low water pressure there are repeated fill timeouts.  And with the restricted flow this stage is insufficient to activate a 0.5l/minute flow-activated pump.

Fully open right hand (brown topped) valve.  Water has sufficient pressure to get into the channels above the conditioner compartment and flush/syphon the conditioner into the machine.  I am virtually certain the transition to this stage is under control of the machine: it happens with the same timing, and the machine does some rotations then a drain between the two fills; it's clearly not a stuck valve just deciding to fully open after a while.

Fully open both valves for final rinse fill.

On longer cycles, the left hand green topped valve also seems to used in partially open "trickle mode" at one point but I forget exactly when in the cycle; possibly it was used as an initial stage to wet/"pre-wash" the load before using the full flow which would draw in detergent.

It's difficult for me to imagine that these valves are truly intended to operate in the "full bore" and "trickle" modes you described. I think it's more likely that the "trickle" mode is actually a malfunction.
After reading a little about the differences in operation between direct-acting solenoid valves and pilot-operated solenoid valves at Burkert and at Instrumentation Tools, and also reading your linked question, I'll venture to guess that the valves in your machine are pilot-operated and that your water supply pressure is sometimes so low that the pilot operation fails. Maybe the water pressure vs spring is so low that the main valve opens only partially, or even not at all and the trickle is just what flows through the pilot.
The situation mentioned in that linked question, in which a flow-activated pump is installed to feed the washing machine, is interesting. But I think it's consistent with the theory above. As the pump is flow-activated, it does not provide any boost in pressure until after the valve has opened enough to allow sufficient flow. Thus the pump does not provide any additional pressure at the time the valve should transition from closed to open, and in fact probably is a pressure loss, further impairing the ability of the valve to open in the first place.


Fasten 1/4" steel plate to 2x4 wood? I have several 2"x4" x 12ft pieces of wood that I will use as rails. I need to secure them to several 1/4" steel plates. The steel plates have two holes for screws ( or whatever I end up using). The wood doesn't have holes and I don't want the screw to go completely through the wood.

What's the best way to secure the 2x4 to these plates?

Thanks.

The wood doesn't have holes

So I'd use something like a bradawl to mark the positions then drill a pilot hole if necessary (depends on wood, position of hole, diameter of screw etc)

See How can I drill to an exact depth with a hand drill?

  and I don't want the screw to go completely through the wood.

That's just a matter of buying the right sized screw.


Can I "daisy-chain" LED strip lights to my bathroom exhaust fan and have them work on the same light switch? I just finished installing a new exhaust fan in my bathroom. I have access to the ceiling before I patch up the old hole where the old fan used to be. A lot of people tend to connect a recessed light to the exhaust fan but I wanted to know if I could "daisy-chain" an LED strip light so that it could illuminate the side of the walls as you can see in this photo:

Here are the LED lights that I bought:

Since your LED strips are powered by a 5V DC the correct answer is:

  No, you can't directly add DC equipment to an AC circuit.

However, you can add a 110 V AC outlet to the switchable part of the circuit that the fan is on and plug in what ever adapter you were planning on running your LEDs off of from that.

Assuming you want these LEDs on the ceiling near the center of the room, you probably want to use a ceiling box (for lights) instead  of a standard switch box so that any future owner, or change in taste will allow you easily to convert to another fixture.

along with a cover like this:

They also sell these in decora or single outlet style:

Alternately, (and what I'd probably do) in place of a ceiling box, you could install a recessed light fixture, then use a socket to outlet adapter and plug your 5V DC transformer into that:

I see that in your comments you are worried about flickering. This shouldn't be a problem, unless the circuit is overloaded (if so you need to run a new line from your breaker box), or had a ton of compact florescent bulbs on it (they dirty the power by only pulling during the maximum voltage differential).


Is this fungus? What should I do about it? I've pulled up the masonite and tiled floor in my laundry and there's cleary water damage in the floorboards, I just pushed a chisel all the way through the worst part. The adjacent two floorboards are still soft and on top there are white to grey trendils radiating out from the wet area. Unfortunately I'd scraped most of it off without thinking about it. Here's a pic

The water seems to have gone in where the edge of the room wasn't sealed, the worst affected board runs under the wall.

How much of the floor should I cut out, and can/should I treat the adjacent/replacement floor with some kind of fungicide?

This type of damage is very common in situations like yours. Both the wood and masonite are good sources of food for mold to grow if damp or wet for prolonged periods of time. Do not distress, most molds are not extremely dangerous. Since your area is small you can treat it yourself. Remove all obvious mold with a putty knife and wash the area with bleach. There is an anti-bacterial/mildew bleach available at most home improvemant stores that works well, but regular laundry bleach will do the job. Take the proper precautions, gloves, dust mask, eye protection, etc. to avoid getting hurt from the bleach or inhaling any live mold spores. Don't attempt to sand mold off as that can spread the spores, keep it confined.

Let the cleaned area dry completely. Repeat the bleach wash if any traces of the mold is still visible after it dries. After the area is completely dried, you can paint the area to seal the boards.

Remove any badly rotted wood back to the center of the closest floor joist. Replace the board. If you have only shallow damage on some boards, they may be fine after treated and dried as long as they are still solid and support a normal load.


Pipe in ceiling behind old light fixture There is a pipe behind the old ceiling fixture.  When I took off the cap air / has came out. Quickly recapped it. Not sure if it was natural gas.. didn't smell bad, but I'm concerned what this could be. It's an old house (1908). Could this be a gas line in the ceiling?

Thanks

T

In the early 1900's many houses used natural gas for lighting. Around pittsburgh, Pa. most old houses were piped for this natural gas lighting. Usually by now all that old piping has been disconnected. Find the source of the connection to the gas lighting, disconnect and cap/plug the piping. The house I lived in until I left for the Navy, had this piping that was removed from the gas supply and made safe.


Using 14/3 to wire a fan and lights separately I currently have 14/3 from my panel to a switch box.  The switch box has 2 switches, set up such that one switch would turn on the lights of fan/light combos, and the other switch turns on the fans.  From the switch box, I have run 14/3 to the location where I was going to hook up the light/fan combos.  Since running the wires, I have changed my mind, and would instead like to wire up a fan (no lights) and lights.  I have the 14/3 wire still sitting out, ready for use, but my question is: can I use the existing set up (the two separate switches and the 14/3) to wire a fan and string of lights separately such that one switch would turn on the lights and the other would turn on the fan?
I hope I explained that correctly.

Yes, that will work. Terminate the 14/3 (neutral and two switched hots) in the ceiling fan box where you'll hook up the neutral and a switched hot to the fan. Then connect the 14/2 for your light to the neutral in the fan box and to the other switch hot. Run the 14/2 to your light locations. You will naturally want to hook up all the ground wires to these fixtures.


How can a GFI installed on an ungrounded two-wire line be verified? From an online source:

  Your outlet tester may do double-duty as a GFCI outlet tester, simulating a ground-fault by the push of a button on it. There is a limitation here. Unlike a good GFI, which can test itself even without a good ground, the three-prong GFI outlet tester depends on a good ground to purposely trip the GFI; and this is also true when it is used to try tripping the GFI by pushing the tester's button at standard receptacles wired downstream from it.

If one doesn't trust the test button on the GFI, and one knows the outlet tester can give a false negative in this scenario, how does one verify the circuit protection?

You can put a load across the Line Live and the Load Neutral or the Load live and the Line neutral (this is what the test button will do) or between one of the Load conductors and a grounded conductor. This should trip the GFI.

However doing this while the GFI is properly installed is difficult and dangerous because the connections should be hidden and it requires you to poke around a live circuit.

GFIs without a ground are legal but the sockets should be marked with a "no equipment ground" label.


Transitioning between conduit sizes and types using a threaded bushing US, Southern CA, NEC 2017
I need to transition from 1" PVC to 3/4" LFxC to connect to a weatherproof junction box with 3/4" NPT hubs.
My first thought was to glue on a socket x 1" NPT female fitting to the end of the PVC, and use a threaded adapter to connect to the 3/4" NPT male fitting on the end of the LFxC. I have seen plumbing versions of PVC bushings to go between 1" NPT to 3/4" NPT, but I assume using those is not allowed because they're not UL listed for conduit use.
Questions

Does code allow use of a UL listed aluminum bushing like  McMaster #7864T23 with non-aluminum fittings?
If using LFMC instead of LFNC, the fittings I've found are steel - is there going to be a corrosion issue due to dissimilar metals?
If I need to stay within the existing conduit types, is there a simple way to get from the 1" PVC to the 3/4" flex conduit fittings?

I'd get a weatherproof box with 1" hubs on it
Amazingly enough, weatherproof boxes with 1" hubs are a thing, although you may have to order one in through your nearest supply house (or online) instead of just stopping by the nearest big-box store. I would use one of those instead of trying to field-fabricate a swedged reducer down to 3/4", since you can use reducer bushings in the larger hubs much more easily than you can expand a smaller hub out to fit a larger conduit.


Wood Working in Basement with Furnace I'm thinking about setting up a woodworking workshop for hobby projects in my basement.

However, my basement is small and my woodworking would take place close to my furnace / hot water heater. Is this a fire hazard with all of the sawdust?

Here is an picture to show the proximity:

As you can see I'm hanging a tarp (not an airtight seal) to contain as much of the saw dust as possible.

Is this a fire hazard?

For reference my furnace is an Armstrong Ultra SX 80 and my hot water heater is a Richmond  6G40S-36F1.

The links below provide the guidelines for industrial facilities but may be of interest.  They discuss the importance of considering potential ignition sources and use of effective dust collection systems.

OSHA Combustable Dust Hazard Information

NFPA 664: STANDARD FOR THE PREVENTION OF FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS IN WOOD PROCESSING AND WOODWORKING FACILITIES

As a practical matter many hobbyists have basement shops.  It looks like your tarp will keep the bulk of the dust away from the furnace, and a dust collector will help even more.  If you find there is significant fine dust getting to the furnace side of the tarp you could buy or build a secondary air filter system to supplement the main dust collector you connect your table saw and other large tools to.  You should also pay close attention to storage of flammable solvents / finishes and disposal of rags used in finishing.


Can I plug a washing machine requiring a 15A breaker into a 20A outlet? I am removing an old Asko washer that plugs into single outlet 20 amp box.

The new Samsung washer requires "AC 120 V / 60 Hz / 15 AMP fuse or circuit breaker."

Can I safely replace the 20 amp receptacle with a 15 amp configuration receptacle?

Actually, you don't need to change anything. All 120V 20 Amp receptacles are designed to accept 120V 15 Amp and 120V 20 Amp plugs. Because of that, all 120V 15 Amp devices are normally designed to work properly in a 120V 15 Amp or 120V 20 Amp circuit. This is true for appliances like a washing machine but even for something as small as a cell phone charger that actually uses < 1 Amp.

Once you get past 20 Amp, the design of the sockets change so that you can't mix and match. And you can't plug a 20 Amp device into a 15 Amp receptacle - it won't fit.

Bottom line: No problem.


Moving a washer and dryer when relocating across the country I have been contemplating accepting a job offer on the opposite side of USA. If everything works out, I was thinking about putting all my belongings to a couple of u-haul u-boxes and have them shipped.

So for this reason I wanted to ask if I needed to somehow secure the drums on my washer and dryer?

Both are electric (not gas) and of the front-loading variety.

You should use them to avoid not having any means of recompense from the shipper, or from the manufacturer by voiding the warranty.

If you didn't save yours, replacement shipping bolts can be obtained from most appliance parts suppliers (the label with your model number is probably behind the door).

I would not be concerned, if you're the one carefully putting it into a box truck and also the one taking it out (Edit: and the one doing the driving).

The shipping bolts are for keeping it in sellable condition, even after it falls off the forklift a few times.

Upon further research, the shipping bolts for a front loading washing machine keep the mounting springs from receiving excessive tension when bouncing up and down in transit. I will amend my answer by saying that if I were to be the one driving the truck, it would be fine (you may want to reconsider).


Changing from jet pump to submersible This is something I have never done changing from a jet pump to a submersible, I thought I would ask here prior to calling a friend that is a well tester. I was thinking about replacing my jet pump with a submersible but have never done this. Other than the controller for the submersible are there any other issues I should be aware of? I have pulled a bunch of submersible's in the past and repaired / replaced the surface side of jets in the past. I was thinking about changing it for efficiency reasons. Any thoughts or experience would be helpful. Added some background: my farm was once much larger and we have water rights and a 30hp surface water pump that has its own transformer/service. The power company has increased the cost for this pump 4x each month and I don't really need this much water (I can flood 2 fields out of 5 in 4 hours) I just need enough to keep the fields green so that's why I am thinking about a change to a submersible the power savings will pay for a new pump in less than 1 year.

This might not be any major insight but at least some food for thought.

I think when the efficiency pays for the submersible quickly, it's a no-brainer - you want the submersible.

The submersible is generally better made, benefits from running cool, tolerates debris, generally low maintenance.

When you do have to service it, the submersible is a pain because you have to pull it out of the ground, but the jet pump is a pain because you have to prime it.  I'll call that a tie.

Like so many things it comes down to time and money.  The submersible is higher initial cost, the jet pump is higher ongoing cost.  In some cases where it doesn't run much and electricity is cheap, the submersible may never pay for itself over the life of the pump.  But it sounds like in your case you won't have to wait long for the payoff.

In some industrial settings I see people not even think about the cost of the electricity - that comes out of someone else's budget and they want the cheapest possible up front cost, period.  Of course there are situations where someone can't afford the better pump today, so they have to take the cheaper option.

But in your case it's a fast payoff so I think the choice is clear, get the submersible.


What prevents rain or snow from going down a concentric vent? I am looking to possibly install concentric vents through the roof for two tankless water heaters I have.  But I am concerned about rain coming back down the vent and damaging my water heaters.  All the pictures that I see have a direct opening straight up with no elbows on it.  Most of the other vents on my home have a 180 degree fitting to point the vent down after penetrating through the roof.
For example,

My tankless water heater (80% efficient, with stainless steel style vent) does indeed use a condensate drain in its venting system.  This was required to comply with local codes and the follow the installation instructions for my particular unit.  There is a “condensate drain tee” fitting which has a small hose nipple on the side, to which a condensate drain system is attached.

The higher efficiency tankless water heaters, e.g., the 95%+ efficiency units, are condensing units and also cool down their exhausts enough to be able to use plastic vent material (such as PVC) will have condensate drains built in to them.  I would guess rainwater that falls down into the vent, much like condensate, would safely exit the unit through the condensate drain.
I would recommend reading your water heater installation instructions, and checking with local installation codes to make sure you are installing yours correctly.  The instructions and codes may indeed call for condensate drain, which would collect rain water.
I’ve seen elbows installed on the end of some plastic vents - presumably to make it tougher for rain water, birds, or small vermon to get in.  Follow whatever the installation instructions and local codes say, and you’ll be fine.  No need to reinvent the wheel.


Why can't SharkBite plumbing connectors be sold in CA and VT? I've spent the last couple of weeks replacing my copper hydronic heat in the house. I'm now a convert to PEX and SharkBite connectors.

I had to run out tonight to Home Depot to pick up one more connector and got back and realized there was an odd statement on the tag:

  Note: It is illegal to sell this product in California and Vermont

Anyone know why this is? I did some Googling and found these theories from various places:

CA has a powerful plumbing lobby and they don't like homeowners having access to easier products
CA has strict anti-lead legislation where many brass fixtures still contain a percentage of lead

Both sound plausible and perhaps they're both true. Anyone know the actual reason?

It must be the lead, because http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/lead-free-fittings is advertising lead free fittings and leads with this line:

  As of January 1, 2010, changes to California and Vermont laws prohibit
  selling any pipe, fitting, or fixture that is intended to dispense or
  convey drinking water and that has a weighted average lead content of
  more than 0.25% based on a wetted surface area calculation.

I would have expected another sentence in there saying "and these are lead free so it's fine" but there isn't that, just a bunch of pictures of individual fittings.


Can a switched single speed fan (no light) be converted to 3 speed via different toggle switch? Can a basic single speed shop fan (no light) be converted to 3 speed via different type toggle switch?

I bring up variacs as my first reason to meet current code if your AHJ doesn’t have the exceptions my state now has for devices known to cause tripping.

If the fan is a single speed or has only 1 winding, there are only 2 ways I know of to make it variable speed. The first is a variac - this is a variable ac transformer, kind of expensive and larger than most single gang boxes used in homes. The good part is since fans are low current devices there are models that can do the job and fit in a double gang box ( but be prepared for sticker shock).
The second and more common method is an electronic speed controller, much like a light dimmer but rated for motors. These will usually fit in a single gang box and cost less than variacs.

Now the part that most don’t know. Electronic controllers create harmonics on the electrical system and may cause nuisance tripping of both AFCI & GFCI breakers, I have not had a variac cause a trip and years ago only used them 2x when a contract required less harmonic noise than could be done with electronic controls. Luckily, my state allowed circuits that had troubles with GFCIs and AFCIs to be omitted if dedicated. I have installed several more variacs for a homeowner that wanted cleaner house hold power with cost not being an issue. I had to add stops for the low speed side of the variac so the fan would spin plus a little buffer, but it works quite well on the fans I installed with a variac rated at 5 amps when the fans were 3-4 amps max, but they are larger and require a double gang box. The pump actually required a much larger box but this is about fans so speed can be varied by electronic means (solid state) or with a variac, a variable AC transformer.


Replacing an outdoor junction box - need some help Last year we had a contractor come to our house to do a few jobs. In the process, he ended up saying he busted a light bulb on our security light, and said he would fix it. About a week later, we noticed it wasn't fixed. Sadly it was getting towards winter time, and we ended up letting it go because of the bitter cold.

Well, it's warming up again, so i wanted to tackle it. Turns out though, he didn't just bust the bulb. He actually busted off one of the cups that would hold the bulb, and he also busted off the motion sensor. It appears that the entire light itself is one large junction box - the box has two lights coming out of it, and also the motion sensor. The picture hopefully illustrates that (sorry for the quality and distance, I'll have to rent a ladder for this fix).

So, can anyone tell me what I'm looking at? Is the light itself a junction box? Or is it just a housing in front of another junction box? I can't seem to find a similar style light to base it on. If I have to replace the entire box that's fine, I just need to make sure I'm not doing anything that goes against code.

Looks like you've got a 1 gang 5 hole outdoor electrical box, like this.

A couple weatherproof lampholders,

and a motion sensor.

You should be able to find each of these sold separately, at your local hardware or big box store. To replace them, you'll have to be comfortable doing electrical work, and working from a ladder. If you're not comfortable with either, contact a local Electrician to complete the repair.
Replace the broken bits
If you have no problems with this type of work, the repair is quite simple.  Start by turning off the power to this circuit at the breaker, and verifying the power is off using a non-contact voltage tester. Next remove the cover from the box, which is likely held on by two screws.  This will reveal the wiring inside. Take a moment to note (and jot down) how everything is connected. Taking pictures is often helpful.
Remove the lampholder
Locate the wires going to the broken lampholder, and follow them to where they connect to the other wires. Disconnect the wires from the broken lampholder from the other wiring (likely done by removing twist-on wire connectors), making sure to remember where they were connected.
There may be a locknut where the lampholder threads into the box.

Loosen the locknut with a pair of tongue and groove pliers (channellocks), then simply unscrew the lampholder from the box.
Finishing up
Installation is the opposite of removal.
Follow the same procedure to replace the motion sensor.
Before replacing the box cover, inspect the gasket and replace it if necessary.


How can I restore this interior wooden siding? I have a small entry way with wooden siding by my front door. It's not in great condition from the previous owners and I was hoping there would be a way to restore or just make it look better. Could it be sanded/refinished? Or does is there something else I should do? I'd be willing to stain it a darker brown if that would help hide some of the wear and tear.

Click on images for full size

It appears as if the finish is some type of penetrating stain and sealer. There may also be a worn topcoat, such as satin polyurethane, that has worn.

SAND - As described in several comments, wood siding can be sanded to both remove scratches and even out the color. If you wish to stain the surface to restore the natural finish and even out the tone, it is also necessary to remove any top coat. This requires sanding over the entire surface, obviously concentrating on scratches. A belt sander is hard to control vertically, can gouge and kicks up a lot of dust. An orbital sander, or a palm sander is easier if slower.

STAIN - Once the surface has been sanded , you can stain. You can try to find a penetrating stain that is close to the original and reapply that. If you have large sections of fairly bare wood (after scratch removal), you may want to start with a stain prep coat (like a stain primer) that gives you a more even tone. You can also use a darker stain if the wood looks very uneven or shabby despite sanding. I would avoid the combination stains and finish in one. They are faster and easier, but when they scratch, the underlying lighter wood shows through more than with a conventional penetrating stain.

TOP COAT - Once the stain is done and dry, you should use a top coat such as polyurethane. You probably do not want a gloss finish. Satin finishes are usually used on this type of paneling and are more forgiving of scratches and brush strokes.  There are even some wiping finishes that tend to give a hand rubbed look. If you want it very flat, there are a few matte finish polys.

PAINTING - As an alternative, you could consider painting the surface. After sanding the scratches and lightly sanding the rest of the surface (but needs less sanding than if you stain), you could use conventional trim paint, with a variety of surface glosses.

GLAZING - You also could apply a glaze coat which is somewhere between paint, stain and top coat. You paint it on and then wipe some of it off with rags or sponges. It coats the wood with a distinct color, but lets some of the wood grain and underlying color show through. You could go darker or lighter than the current color for a two toned effect. This is a somewhat dramatic finish, so test it somewhere inconspicuous before committing to the whole project. If you do not like it, you can sand it off when dry and use a different approach.


Ensure smooth drywall surface around stone mantel I have a follow-up question from this Frame drywall around brick fireplace regarding the "best method" to ensure smooth drywall surface on top and both sides of mantel.

Basically I have a very "rough" brick fireplace and I need to put drywall in the "green" area:

The "red" area is the mantel and the "yellow" area will be tiles.

The drywall will attach to horizontal metal studs as below which shows the "bottom" studs and no more studs under that one:

My question is: I can mount drywall on the studs and ensure they are flat on the top portion but how do I make the drywall flat for area on both sides of the mantel (label as #1 and #2)?

The bricks are very uneven and the whole fireplace is leaning "outside" a bit so it's not completely vertical.

I am thinking of 2 options:

Put mortar in #1 and #2 and try to ensure it's 1/2" below the top drywall. I am thinking of running several small strings horizontally to ensure they are flushed and parallel to the drywall. Then once that's dried, I can put drywall over mortar using concrete screws. However the hard part is to make it perfectly 1/2" depth. I could "mud" heavily the entire thing later as a finishing work.
Frame #1 and #2 but using lumber and put several "shims" and screw plywood in first, then drywall covering plywood. I don't know how exactly this will turn out but it will take several attempts to make it look right.

I am looking advise. Thanks.

UPDATE 1

Following advise below, I have two options to mount the metal studs:

Do one horizontal on bottom. Maybe the drywall is strong enough to go from top to bottom of the two studs?

Do 2 vertical studs like the photo for the left side of the fireplace as example:

Right:

Left:

(I haven't cut the metals yet hence two separate pics)

The second option seems harder to "line things up" due to the bricks BUT I can bend the metal and use screws/washers to position.

Let me know.

UPDATE 2

To @Jack credit below, I was able to complete my project and it looks beautiful

Cut and set 2 vertical studs screwed to the horizontal stud by bending tabs to attach to the underside of the horizontal stud. You can do the same for the bottom, but bend the tab out so far to find stable concrete or masonry to use concrete screws to attach. The mud bed the hearth will need will allow you to run that tab under the hearth to find good attachment there.


The bottom of my plumbing stack is rusting heavily. Do I need to replace it? I noticed the bottom of my drainage stack (where the pipe meets the concrete in my basement) is rusting badly. Do I need to replace it?

It looks like the PVC might just be going through an old connection, but I didn't install this, so I don't know for sure.

Cast iron rusts, but it rarely becomes a concern due to the thickness of the pipe walls. Those bell fittings are nearly a half inch thick. More likely is that the inside gets choked with corrosion and residue.

I'd wire brush it, prime it with a high-quality bonding primer, and paint it, merely for cosmetics and cleanliness.

I'm not sure what you mean by "an old connection", but you almost certainly have cast iron pipe from that point to the city drain line or septic system. My previous home had a lot of cast iron and galvanized that was choked down, and after replacing most of it I had the same situation.


How do I know if my lightswitch is wired incorrectly? I recently replaced a couple of the really old lightswitches in my house. Shortly afterwards I heard Shirlock Homes on the StackExchange podcast and he mentioned that you can shock yourself if you wire it up incorrectly.

How can I verify that I have in fact wired my lightswitches safely?

NOTE: I'm sorry I don't know what information to include, I bought lightswitches that looked the same, and copied the wiring.

As Tester says, Shirlock is referring to a switched neutral. The switch should be stopping the current on the black line from getting to the light when turned off, but there are lots of ways to wire a switch where the wire colors don't help. In particular, if the wiring begins in the light fixture and uses a single pair of wires to the switch, you'll only have a black and white wire in the switch J-box.

To know if you have a switched neutral, you'd need to check if there is any voltage to ground from inside the switched outlet or light socket when the switch is turned off. If it's a light socket and you don't have a ground, you can use the large pin on an extension cord. Just use a voltage tester to see if there's any current, they are cheap and I'd consider it a required tool if you're doing any electrical work.

But Tester is also right that if you had a semi-competent electrician wire your home, and replaced the switch with another and using the same wires, you are unlikely to have this issue. And if you never stick your finger in the light socket, you'll be unlikely to ever realize you had this problem.


How do I connect underground PVC pipe holding wire to rigid conduit? I am planning to add a (GFCI) receptacle on a fence post, which is 45m from the garage (power feed).  I plan to use NMWU 12/2 cable run in a PVC water pipe (or flexible cable protector) and the risers at both ends will be rigid PVC conduit.  I plan to use 12ga to allow for future extension down the laneway (100m or so).  The 45cm-deep trench will be dug with a mini-ex in an area with no vehicle traffic.  I live in southern Ontario.
Question: How is the wire from the ends of the pipe to the conduit to be protected?  (Do I leave it with a small loop or wrap it in something?)
Edit: I found a source of flexible PVC electrical conduit, so I can use it and connect the ends to rigid conduit.  (This sort of obviates my question, though.)

First, apologies for leaving this question for so long and thank you for your comments.
In the end, I used flexible PVC conduit. I could have used rigid conduit, which was less expensive, but decided against it as there were too many elbows to glue (and not all the turns were 90 degrees).  With the flexible conduit, there was only one junction to glue in the middle and the elbows at the end.


Is 16x20 feet big enough for a 2 car garage? I have an existing structure that is currently a single car that i'd like to convert to a two car garage; it measures 16x20 feet. The two garage doors would be mounted on the longest side (20 feet).

Would 16 feet be sufficient to back into and be ok? Has anyone ever seen or attempted a 16x20 two car garage?

The ideal size will vary with the size of the vehicles you drive. There is a vast difference in the space required to comfortably open the doors and exit a Mini Cooper and a full size pick-up. I live in an older home with a 2 car garage built in the 1920's. The inside dimensions are 18' by 18'. To fit 2 cars (06 and 08 Chevrolet Impala) in it, the one on the left must be backed in and the one on the right driven in. Exiting the vehicle requires caution to keep the doors from dinging each other. Opening the passenger doors is impossible as there is less than a foot of clearance to the wall. Doing any kind of repair or maintenance in the garage is impossible with both cars inside.


What to do with concrete/cement runoff from cleaning tools? I'm completely new to working with cement/concrete. I can follow various guides online (I'm only looking at really simple loose-brick fixing for now).

However, no guide makes clear how I should safely dispose of the runoff water from cleaning my tools and mixing tub.

Can I just chuck this into the lawn?

Definitely not on the lawn! The water is caustic and can have a high pH value 10+ etc.

What I do is let the water settle. My process is as follows. I wash my mixer and tip the water into the wheelbarrow. Then I scrub the wheelbarrow and then tip the water into a rubber bucket. Then I wash the hand tools in this bucket, rinsing with a little extra fresh water into the same bucket.

So, now you have a pretty full bucket of dirty water. Leave it overnight (or longer). The solids will settle to the bottom and leave pretty clean water on the top. I usually tip this onto a gravel area if there is one (scrape back the top layer with your boot, pour and once it soaks in, push the clean gravel back over).

Then you're left with a third of a bucket of dry/set sand/cement mixture which you can scrape or knock out of the bucket and dispose of with your other 'hard' waste, brick off cuts etc.

Hope that helps.


A light switch with current that has a red and black wire attached but does not control a light or receptacle I recently purchased a used park model home, located in USA, with stick built attachment.  I have  a light switch ,with current, that does not control any light or receptacle,that I can find, in or out side of the structure.  The switch is in a  two switch box. The box has 4 cables coming in. One cable has a red,black,white and ground wire. The red wire is attached to subject switch and has a black wire pigtail connected to the incoming black wires. The other switch has 2 black wires.  One is an incoming wire and the other is a pigtail connected to the incoming black wires.  The white wires are all tied together. What I overlooking?  I appreciate any advice.

You most likely have a split (or formerly split) duplex receptacle somewhere.

Most of the time, duplex receptacles are set up such that the top and bottom halves function identically and are fed by the same wire.  However, by breaking a small brass tab on the receptacle, it's possible to wire them such that the top and bottom halves function separately.  This can be done to allow one half to be always-hot, and the other half to be controlled by a switch, which I suspect is how your outlet was set up originally.

Now, if you've checked both halves of all receptacles in the room with the switch and find that they're all always hot, it's time to start pulling off some outlet covers.  If at some point in the past the half-switched outlet was replaced, it's very possible that whoever replaced it just landed all the wires on the same screws as before, but didn't realize they also needed to break off the brass tab.  This would result in the always-hot and the switched-hot wires being paralleled, and both halves of the outlet would be always-hot regardless of switch position.  The fix for this, assuming you want the outlet to be half-switched again, is to shut off the circuit at the breaker panel, and break the tab connecting the two halves.


Wire Up a Double Rocker Switch and Normal Rocker Switch I'm trying to understand how to wire up this particular section of a newly renovated wall. These wires are supposed to power 3 lights in total and I was told by the contractor to get a double rocker switch and a normal switch. I am familiar with wiring up standard three prong outlets and switches, but this one confuses me.
There are 4 wires, with some labeled 4, 3, and 2. One wire is wrapped with red tape.
My question is basically which wires go where on the rocker and double rocker? I'm assuming since these are for switches only to leave the neutrals capped off.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yu7tMXjQzpnA1fFu8FiZ-ipB_-KukJcT/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z4ua27yxM-dxdmGM_bRjXIfutaowdPFJ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YiffyaemRl6uNC1JCzUpqTZx-4e9TP5K/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YfEgOEOX9GaO6StBDlJxW0eAbjxvnTAI/view?usp=sharing

Your "kit" is missing some pieces.  You'll need

a non-contact voltage tester (voltmeter or non-contact tester will suffice).
A 5-pack of colored electrical tape.
3-void Wago "Lever-nuts" - like these, but they latch down with a lever, and allow reuse.
3 feet of black THHN wire, solid not stranded, and 12 AWG wire size. (even if  your breaker is 15A, #12 is the universal donor).
1 foot of bare, solid #12 ground wire.

Prepping the wires
Unfortunately, "#1 #2 #3 #4" is not standard nomenclature, if anything the builder can be guilty of "stating the obvious".  Unless you open up the 3 light fixtures and find "oh look, the other end of this cable is also marked #3, and that other light is #2".  shrug
So we'll need to test which cable is the supply.
Turn the breaker on, and tap each black wire with a non-contact tester.  One of them should light up.
Mark the other 3 black wires with red, blue and yellow tape, respectively.
If you want to know which wire goes to which light (for arranging the switches to your preference), let's not do that now.
The problem with those "push" connectors is you can't insert a wire, pull it out, and reuse the void a second time.  Pulling the wire out destroys the spring clamping force in that void: it won't clamp properly, will arc and start a fire. So if you need to do any experimenting at all, rend (pull/twist) the wires out of these nuts, and use Wago lever-nuts.  Don't waste wire length and why bother re-stripping?
Prepare the pigtails
Cut your 3' wire into six 6" pigtails, and strip off about 5/8" of wire off one end.  (off the other end, strip off whatever the connector says to on its labeling).
Take 3 of your pigtails  and the colored tape.  Wrap one pigtail with red tape, another with blue tape, and another with yellow tape.
Cut your 1' ground wire into two 6" pigtails.
Prepare the switches
On a nice comfortable bench, sit down with the 2 switches.  Use the screw terminals and do proper shepherd's crook screw connections, clockwise.  Skill up on Youtube on those.  Alternately  you can get a slightly better switch that uses "screw-and-clamp" connections, a back-wire where you tighten the screw (HARD) to clamp it.
"Why not just use backstabs"? They are known unreliable, and anyway don't work on #12 wire.
"Why not just use #14 wire?" That would be bad if the breaker was 20A.
The single switch is easy.  Pick any screw and put a black pigtail there.  The other screw gets a red pigtail.
The dual switch is tricky, because you must look closely for which side is "common".  It will have 2 screws on "common" and a little metal tab that could be broken off to separate the two "common" screws.  Do not break the tab.  Put 1 black wire on "common" and do not use the other "common" screw.
The other two (non-common) screws on the dual switch get a blue and yellow pigtail.
Both switches get 1 ground pigtail on their green screw.
Feel free to wrap the switch bodies with electrical tape 2-3 times around, to insulate the side screws.  However, hold off on that until the switch positions are where you like.
Back to the switch box
Breaker still off.
Super easy.  Bare to bare.  Black to black.  Blue to blue. You're getting the idea.
See how all the prep work above made this Super Easy?  That's why it's worth it.
"But I don't like which switch controls which light".  OK, turn off the breaker and exchange wires on the screw terminals (or screw-and-clamp's) as needed. That way the pigtail colors stay matched up.


I want to change my light bulb to an LED multicolored light bulb I want to change my current light bulb (which I believe to be a florescent, though I am unsure) in my bedroom to an LED one so I can make it change colors.

I am looking at buying this bulb:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/iLC-Colour-Changing-Control-Bayonet/dp/B072PQVG1X/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=led%2Bcolour%2Blight%2Bbulb&qid=1585699077&sr=8-11&th=1

However, I am not sure if it will work correctly as this is my first time buying a different type of bulb. I live in the UK.

I have attached an image of my current bulb below, thanks in advance for any help. I'll be happy to supply any further information if needed.

I think the op did the shopping but wants to know if it will work.

Looking at the original lamp and the new one I would say yes they both work in the same voltage range.

In my area the bayonet style lamp is not used on mains voltage but it appears that it is for your area.

So yes it should work.


Tempstar furnace, pilot light turns on then off in 1 second I have a Tempstar natural gas furnace. It has electric element for ignition of the pilot.

It was working fine all December. Now, it does not work as follows: the draft fan starts and runs correctly, then a good looking pilot light comes up. In less than one second, the pilot light turns off and the main burner does not ignite.

I spent a while troubleshooting this issue. I cleaned the pilot sensor with light emery cloth. It did not seem to help. It seems that if I remove two screws holding the pilot light in place and pull it out of the furnace, it does ignite and hold, and if I insert it back into the furnace, the main gas ignites.

I put it back in and everything seems to work. I turn the furnace off, then on, and the pilot stays and the burner lights. Then I went to sleep and again woke up in a cold house.

Overall this behavior seems to be somehow "erratic". As in, things seem to work, then after a while the pilot starts going away again.

Would there be some coherent explanation of this behavior.

Thanks

Check to make sure the wiring for the flame sensor is properly connected, and the wire is not damaged. If that all seems good. Replace the flame sensor.  If the pilot is not proving, it's almost certainly because the flame sensor is not detecting it.

Flame sensors do go bad, but are typically a cheap replacement. However, it looks like the sensor in your furnace is part of a pilot assembly So it will be a bit more expensive, and a bit more difficult to replace.


Changing Out a "Vintage" Dimmer Switch First off ---- I am by no means an electrician.

That said, I have a dimmer switch that needs to go..and be replaced by a new one. However, upon searching the internet and reading the instructions several times over, I am stuck. The dimmer being replaced is from 1978 (original to the house). I have attached photos of the new one, the old one (still attached the house) and the instructions. All the help they have been was saying, "consult an electrician if what is on the wall doesn't match the paper..."

Please note that the wires attached to the switch are all black, they just have over-spray from painting on them. Additionally, there is a ground in the back but I don't know which is the positive or which is the negative.

I appreciate any and all help! I can easily provide more pictures if needed or information.

You have a "single-pole" arrangement, i.e. one switch controlling the load (the light). You simply need to turn off the circuit breaker controlling this circuit, remove the two wires from your existing dimmer switch and place them on the two wire terminals on the new dimmer switch (the terminals that are NOT green). It does not matter which wire goes to which terminal.

There does appear to be a ground wire (bare) under a screw in the back of the box; if possible you should attach a short green or bare wire from the green terminal on the new dimmer to that same screw (or alternate ground screw) in the back of the box. This is not required for the new switch to work; it is a safety feature.

Attach the dimmer and cover plate to the box, then turn the circuit breaker on. Done.


Does electrical box have to be nailed into side of stud I have an electrical box that was metal and i want to add another switch. I pulled out the old box and want to replace it. There was no ground to the box, and the wires do not have a ground, so I was going to use a plastic box. The only problem is the remodel box sticks out an extra inch because the stud isn't a normal 2x4. If I use an electrical box like this, can I just nail the front piece to the stud, or do I have to drive in the two long nails to the side of the stud?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-3-Gang-Blue-Plastic-Interior-New-Work-Standard-Switch-Outlet-Wall-Electrical-Box/50011802

If the box is not required to hold the weight of a light fixture it need only be securely fastened.

For example, you can get a 3-gang "old work" box designed to be attached only to the drywall. Which one you pick can have more to do with what cable is coming into the box: NM vs metal jacketed.

It sounds like you have access to the stud since you have removed the old box and expanded the drywall. The box you picked happens to nail to a stud rather far back. But there are other options. It may be difficult to reach the mounting points of a metallic switch box but you can nail into the stud with a metallic masonry box instead.


Sealing space between counter and stainless stove What's the best material to use to seal the gap between my counters and the stove?
It's a pretty tight fit but we don't want any crumbs and food bits to get in there.

If we use caulk will it stick to stainless?
Will it leave a mark if we decide to remove the caulk?

I use foam rubber weather stripping gaskets:

Alternatively, rubber hose works equally as well.

Just buy it in a profile slightly wider than the gap, then tuck it in the gap. Friction will hold it in place. And easy to replace if you ever need to pull the stove out.


Old cable: type of isolation and size of ground one of the cables going to our electrical panel uses silver color insulation ("silver cable" in picture below). I can identify all cables types on our panel except this one. When were these cables used? What is the type of insulation? I don't know the exact gauge but the ground wire from this cable is pretty small compared to modern 12/2 NM (see picture). Is this a potential concern?

Thanks!

That cable is old cloth jacketed nonmetallic cable.  I would say by the 1970's, this was no longer being installed, nonmetallic cable in the 1970's had a plastic jacket not too much different than what's used today.

The ground wire was considerably smaller on the old cloth jacketed cable, and the early plastic jacketed cable.  I see a lot of old 12-2 romex, which was white back then rather than yellow typical of 12-2 now, with a 16 gauge ground wire.  The smaller gauge of the ground wire isn't usually an issue because it's usually not normally carrying current, it's intended to just carry fault current briefly so the breaker trips (or back then, the fuse blew).  In some situations, the fault may not clear, and it's conceivable in those situations the wire could become overloaded, but that's unusual enough I don't think it's considered a major concern.

If the insulation is undisturbed, it's usually fine, but if it has deteriorated with age, it can be brittle and crumbly, so it's best left alone.  It's especially prone to deterioration if it's been subjected to a lot of heat - in attics, above light fixtures, etc.


How important is it to avoid nicking the center core of a coax cable? All the advice I've ever come across regarding stripping RG6 coaxial cable says to be extremely careful not to nick the center conductor, and if you do, to start all over again.

I seem to be cursed with terrible luck, and always nick the center conductor... but it doesn't seem to interfere with the signal.

So, why do they say to never nick the center conductor?  Should I keep trying, or is it really not that big of a deal?

The answer depends on the extent of the damage caused by the nick and where it is.  Severe damage to the center core can result in noticeable signal degradation.  In analog service applications, this can cause all sorts of weird visual distortions (e.g. vertical lines, dash lines, random dots, etc).  In digital service applications this is a bit more dramatic (e.g. drops in cable internet speed, voip service skips, etc).

Without professional tools to verify signal strength and clarity, it's going to be difficult to say for certain.  I'd venture to guess that if you don't notice any degradation in video quality, you're probably OK.

If you're going to be doing this multiple times, you might want to invest in cabling tools (e.g. crimpers, coax strippers, etc).  They can make the job a LOT easier and reduce the likelihood of nicks occurring.

There's also a good set of instructions here showing the different cabling technique for various coax connectors.

-M


Would two 1x10 placed together be as strong/load bearing as one 2x10 I have a rotted joist in my floor that I can access through my basement, but is above several pipes. I could squeeze a 1x10 through the gaps but can't get a 2x10 to fit. So wondering if I got two 1x10 to fit, then affixed them together, would that have the same strength that a single 2x10 would have?

In theory, yes, if you're able to bond them together adequately. This would typically mean a glue bond across the entire surface, or closely-spaced screw fasteners. You might even consider a triple.


Will an outlet adapter installed in a motion sensor light be constantly hot? I am wanting to add a plug in outlet to one side of my dual motion light sensor. Is this outlet only gong to work when the sensor light comes on? Or will it have a constant electrical feed?

If I understand correctly, you'd like to screw a plug adapter into one of the bulb sockets on your flood light. If so, here are the caveats that come to mind:

The outlet will only be live when the adjacent bulb is lit. It would use the same electrical contacts that the bulb would.
There will be a current limitation that you could easily violate by plugging other devices into the light socket. The socket and its connected wiring are designed only for the current load of light bulbs up to the maximum listed wattage. In the case of a 75 watt flood lamp, that's less than one amp. The wiring may be fine up to say 5 amps, but we can't know for sure, and you open yourself up to smoky outcomes if someone else comes along and plugs a table saw into it.

In general, it's not a good idea. Used with caution, it could work for a short run of holiday lights, for example, without issue.


I want to run a 100 amp sub panel about 60 feet away, do I have to run it through PVC? AND/OR what size wire should I use? I want to run a 100 amp sub panel from my garage about 60 feet away, do I have to run it through PVC? AND/OR what size wire should I use?

You can either run it through conduit, or use multiconductor cable rated for indoor, outdoor, or direct burial depending on your route.

If you are going underground, you might consider Rigid conduit, while expensive and needing to be threaded like pipe, it only needs 6" of dirt above it rather than 18" like PVC or 24" like direct burial.

If you are indoors, any metallic conduit will provide a grounding path, sparing you the need to pull a ground wire.

For 100A we generally recommend #1 aluminum, or #3 copper if you own a copper mine.  The lugs on breaker and subpanel will be aluminum, so aluminum is a good choice for heavy wires like feeders.


How to insulate a concrete slab foundation in an older house? What are some ways to insulate a concrete slab type foundation in an older home built in the 1950's? As far as I can tell, the slab is not insulated at all and results in a very cold floor and living environment on the first level of the house in the colder seasons.

Has anyone used ceramic insulating paint applied to the top of the slab in these circumstances?

Are the walls insulated? If not, do that first. Most of the heat escapes there...especially the part nearest and above the ground level.

With a fully insulated wall, you might not even need to insulate the slab. in MN we insulated our walls and then left the concrete floor as-is (stained it). Only on the coldest winter days did we need to turn on the fireplace and when we did, the slab was fine comfort-wise.

Otherwise, the most typical way to insulate the slab will be with foam board. Typically EPS or XPS with a floated plywood subfloor on top.

But if you have no intention of ever finishing the basement, maybe insulating the first floor underside might make more sense.

UPDATE

The above is valid for a house with a basement. I misread your question initially. It appears you have a floating concrete slab as your foundation. To insulate that you need insulation...either under it (preferred) or on top of it. Obviously adding insulation underneath is not practical after the fact.

The cheapest solution is likely just a new floor covering...carpet with a think pad...maybe cork, etc.

More complicated, but doable, would be to lay down EPS or XPS and then a floor on top of that. The trick there is that this will change the height of your floor...likely causing issues with doors, thresholds, cabinets, etc.


Can I use the area above my garage for storage? The ceiling joists in my garage are 2x8 spaced 24" o.c., and span 21'.  The roof load appears to be carried by the walls, so the joists seem to only be in place to hold the drywall.

I'd like to use the space for light storage (holiday decorations, etc), but I'm not sure if the joists are up for the task. Obviously I'd want to add some decking; so items don't fall through the drywall, but that also adds to the weight the joists will have to carry.

Will I be able to do what I want, or will I have to upgrade the joists?

Since it's a garage (where cars have to park), I can't add mid span support without a huge undertaking.

The joists are almost certainly taking some tension load (keeping the walls from spreading) from the roof, at least, unless it's very strangely built.

As is, given a quick look at load calculators and those inputs, probably not. even reducing live and dead loads to 20PSF (minimum live load for a "storage attic" and a pretty low storage load) and allowing lots of deflection, it's too much for a 2x8.

Your best/most cost-effective approach would probably be to convert rafters and joists into a truss system by adding web elements between the rafters and joists. You'll need a structural engineer, but it's the least added material. My trusses spanning 24 feet are all 2x4 material, so it should not take much to make a 2x8 lower chord carry a reasonable load without support from below. So you'll spend some money on engineering and save a good deal in getting it done, while having some peace of mind.


Electrical outlet arcs only for non polarized grounded plug Let me start by saying I have ceased the use of this outlet, and will be contacting maintenance for a replacement.

I have a grounded outlet in my apartment that has had a power strip plugged into it for nearly 2 years. The plug on the strip is 3 prong without the wider blade of a polarized plug. I believe I may have bumped the cord when I was running some cables nearby as the power strip had lost power. I checked the plug to find it ever so slightly tilted out of the socket (tipped down, pivoting on the ground prong if that matters). Upon tipping it back to be fully seated I heard the telltale sound of an arc happening.

I pulled the plug out and found a scorch mark on a very specific spot on the left prong. Upon re-seating the plug I heard it again. I shut off the strip and moved it to the plug above on the same outlet. I figured I had a bad connection in that particular socket, so I plugged in my lamp which has a polarized 2 prong plug. No issue. Not even when wiggling it.

So now I thought, well maybe only a non-polarized plug will have a bad connection due to the size. So I plugged in a simple night light. It has 2 prongs and is not polarized. Again, no issue. Regardless of the orientation or any wiggling.

So that leaves me wondering, what is so special about the power strip that makes it arc? Is it that it's grounded? Is it the amount of power being drawn?

When you "bumped" the grounded cord, you bent up the grounding clamp of the outlet and made momentary contact with the neutral side of the outlet causing the arcing. When you removed the grounded plug and just used a two prong plug the ground inside the outlet didn't make contact because no ground plug was inserted.... Those outlets are very close quarters inside and can arc over with little pressure when damaged. I'd turn off the breaker for that outlet until it gets replaced.


Please help me complete this wiring! Will you help me connect the remaining wires together so that the switches work correctly?

You can add extra wire if needed.

The important thing is to keep the switches the way they are.

In this situation, the white is acting as the hot and providing power to both switches via the pigtail.

Where does ceiling fan get neutral and ground?

The goal is for switch 1 to control the light fixture, and switch 2 to control the ceiling fan.

[

Power from source goes to fixture in ceiling box first. That would be ok fir a pull chain apparatus. However there was a desire to have 2 devices powered from this source. Thus the plan emerged to redirect the power source to a box on the wall. This source only needed to be a hot leg since the neutral/ground would be tied together in ceiling boxes.
The hot wire into the wall box was then shared onto 2 switches via the pigtail and a white wire carries the power back to one ceiling device while a black wire carries power to the other ceiling device.


Running new electrical with drywall removed, but insulation installed I had to pull a 4' high and long section of drywall out of my garage due to a ton of damage in various places.

While that's off, I'm planning to lower the electrical boxes along that wall about 3 feet. I'm just going to drill new holes through the studs and run it like brand new electrical basically.

The trouble is, these walls are already completed in the sense that there's batt insulation existing and stapled into place.

I'm wondering if there's an easy way to work around the insulation to drill the holes for the new electrical, staple them to the wall running down into the new boxes (and install the new boxes for that matter).

Or am I better off just removing sections of insulation across the new area, running all the wire and installing boxes, then patching insulation in those areas?

I find batt insulation easy to pull out and re-install. Drilling near existing fiberglass (guessing that is what you have) can lead to strands getting caught in the bit and spinning.

I recommend pull out the batts of insulation, do the electrical work and they reinstall the same batts you pulled.

Also assuming you have vapor barrier or retarder on the face (probably what the staples are in), you can try saving the vapor barrier but it may rip. Just add another layer of Kraft paper or 6 mil poly sheeting to replace the old stuff.


Proper lighting for basement bedroom 12x12ft We are in the process of creating a bedroom in our lower level. The room is 12x12ft and they currently just have 2 can lights, which allow for a lot of dark areas in the room. We are going to put in other light sources like floor lamps, but we still feel that we need more ceiling light. Does anyone have any suggestions if more can lights should be installed or smaller can lights? Before I start to cut into the ceiling, I want to have a solid plan and I am unsure of our best bet. Thanks for any feedback!

Adding more “downlighting” won’t help brighten the room. You’re using “task” lighting when you should be using “General” lighting.

We use either: 1) switched outlets, or 2) surface mounted ceiling lights.

1) We hook one-half the electrical outlets to the light switch so that a table lamp or lamp on a nightstand can be plugged into the switch.

2) A surface mounted light with a glass globe will allow light to shine on the ceiling and walls. It brightens the room. Also if it’s placed near a closet, it will cast light into the closet.

For larger bedrooms we use a combo of 1) and 2), above. I like lamps next to the bed on a 3-way switch with general light by a sitting area, etc.

By the way, that is not a “legal” bedroom. The Code is very clear: you must have an egress window (emergency escape window) from every sleeping room. It cannot be more than 44” from the floor and must be a minimum of 5.7 square feet with minimum width and minimum height. Don’t put someone in harms way.


Correctly clean filter in draining pipe It looks like the washing machine draining pipe is clogged.
The pipe contains a component which I never saw before (see picture). Is it some kind of filter? If so, does it have a technical name and what is the correct procedure to clean it?

The pipe contains a component which I never saw before

Me too

  Is it some kind of filter?

It might be a filter, it might be some kind of device that lets water out but keeps smells in. Though there should be a normal U,S or P trap for that purpose. It could be a type of bottle trap known as an inline trap. It has some similarities to a straight-through pedestal basin trap

  what is the correct procedure to clean it?

No idea but it does look like there are parts which can be unscrewed.

Those collars have ribs which makes them look like they were designed to be rotated by hand. I would start by undoing the metal screw at the very top that holds the funnel to the wall.


How can I change the bulb in this light fixture? I would like to change the light bulb in the room because the bulb died on me. Trouble is, it is fixed to the ceiling and I cannot take the bulb out. I am attaching two pictures here. On one of the pictures, there is a little knobby looking thing on the top and a slit just below it. I tried pressing on the knob/slit and twisting and turning the whole thing, but nothing happened..it moved a bit but did not come loose. How do I go about this?

I also just tried pulling on it (probably not  a good idea), but it looked like it might break :)

It looks like it just pulls down, there are usually little springs that keep it in place. Like the one pictured below

Source


Pocket Door or Floor First I am going to replace a tile floor in my bath, however I also want to install a pocket door, which should I do first tile floor or pocket door the floor height will be the same as it is now flush to master bedroom hardwood floor?

Flooring almost always goes in before trim work in new construction or remodeling because door jambs and casing should be fit to the tile for the best appearance. You don't want grout joints around woodwork if you can help it, and fitting tile under trim is a pain.

You'll want to run tile a short distance into the pocket as well, as the edge will show under the door otherwise, lending to an unfinished appearance.

One related tip: Your pocket door probably comes with a rubber bumper installed on the rough frame behind the door. Once your split jambs are installed, seat the door fully and measure how far behind the jamb the door slab sits. Rip a strip of wood that thickness and attach it to the back edge of the slab where that bumper is. Now your door and jamb are flush when the door is open, which looks vastly more polished. The pull latch is also easier to grab than if the door sits back inside the slot too far.

Yet another unsolicited tip on pocket door installs: 1. Set the rough head rail level. 2. Set the full-width finish jamb plumb and straight. 3. Hang the door and plumb it using the hardware adjusters to mate nicely with the full jamb. 4. Open the door fully. 5. Set the side finish split jambs to parallel the edge of the door (not necessarily perfectly plumb). 5. Set the head split jambs.


Installing hot water recirculating pump on a tankless water heater I'm trying to see if I can install a hot water recirculating pump on my current setup. My understanding is that the pump sits just before the hot water line that goes into the building, but since there is an expansion tank, I'm not sure if I can still do it.
Please see the photos here.

I have added recirculating systems on a few occasions and even on a tankless. The pump , timer and cross over plumbing to use the cold water line as the recirculating line can be purchased in a kit usually under 200$ For the basic kit. With a tankless a pair of check valves are needed to create the pressure drop/ flow to fire the tankless. It can be done but in my opinion eliminates the advantage of a tankless. I usually suggest a point of use small tankless at the bathroom these smaller electric units are on demand like the main unit but will warm the water until the main supply of warm makes it Once the water makes it they can actually help to stabilize the water temp and there cost is about the same as a pump, timer and crossover kit. The difference is the point of use usually requires a 240v 30 amp circuit to be run for the unit. This would be my suggestion and it eliminates the warm water in the cold line. The advantage to the recirculating system is in cold areas with the timer adjusted properly the recirculating system keeps pipes from freezing as both the hot and cold are used.


Partial power outage upstairs Lost power to a few rooms upstairs on Sunday (ran a space heater and hair dryer at some time). I thought we tripped a breaker but nothing was flipped in the electric panel. I reset every breaker to be sure. Then I checked we were getting power to each one with a fuse tester and that looks good. I reset all the GFCIs and found one that wouldn't reset out by the garage. So I replaced it and it reset but it didn't solve the problem.

It just means that a wire termination (where a wire meets a receptacle, wire nut or switch) failed somewhere from the overload.  It failed in an arc-fault mode, meaning it burned out like a fuse then arced across the gap, until the arc self-extinguished.  If it had not, you'd be seeing your insurance man in the morning.

The connection didn't short against another wire, so it didn't make a short circuit. That's why it didn't trip the breaker.  Breakers are not "Magic Master Detect-All's".  They make those; they're called dual-mode AFCI/GFCI breakers.  The AFCI would have tripped from the arcing, stopping the arc in case it did not self-extinguish.

So now you need to go hunt down the bad connection, starting at the panel.  Electrical circuits are wired like a tree, they can have any number of branches, but they never loop back to themselves.  Most are wired linear like a vine.  The problem is either at the last functioning outlet or the first bad outlet.  The top candidates are:

Backstab connections
Aluminum wire on old non-aluminum-rated terminations (basically all terminations out there on Al wire)
Loose amateur-done wirenuts - wirenuts are one of the few times "gorilla tight" is appropriate
Screws not tightened enough