Replacing a washer in a 3 knob tub faucet I have a leak from the hot handle of a 3 knob tub faucet when the water is running.  I am able to turn off the hot water because I have access to the hot water heater but I live in a condo that does not have a water shut off for just my unit.  I have to request the management company to shut off the water which affects several units.  There is also a charge for this request.

Can I replace the washer by just shutting off the hot water?

Can I replace the washer by just shutting off the hot water?

YES- on 3-handled tub/shower valve units the supply water is delivered seperately to the hot and cold sides; turning off the hot water supply will allow you to work on the hot side valve.

Because multiple units will be affected you should do some research on how these are repaired prior to turning the supply off, to minimize down time.

Your description of the problem ("leak from the hot handle... when the water is running") is indicative of a problem with the valve's packing. I recommend rebuilding the whole valve while you have the water turned off (bibb washer, packing, grease the stem thread, seat if necessay, etc.) Keep in mind that there are many (many, many, many) brands, models, and configurations out there and there are no "standard" parts. Washers come in a bunch of different sizes and types.


Metal object encountered when drilling into wall above radiator I was drilling through the wall (above the radiator, but not above any pipes or sockets) and hit something metal. I have drilled a tiny hole in that metal plate.
It's not copper, looks silver.
What is this? Can't identify what it could be

Stop. You probably hit a metal plate protecting plumbing or wiring behind it. It's there specifically to prevent people like you from drilling through it and electrocuting yourself or causing a flood.

I recommend you stop whatever job you're doing and consult a professional, or at least a handyman.


How can I paint vertical surfaces without getting paint runs? I find I get the best results when I paint a board laying flat.

If I paint a board standing up, then the paint tends to drip down and form waves or bumps.

On the other hand, when I paint the board lying flat I can only paint one side at a time. If I paint the board standing up, I can paint both sides so it goes twice as fast.

Is the preferred method of painting to paint flat, or is there a way of painting a board standing up so that it doesn't drip? (this would be applicable to fences, for example).

You should be working the paint out to the point that it doesn't run. (People paint walls every day without this problem.) Or buy better paint. (Cheap paint is very watery.)

You may also be applying too heavily. Put the paint on the surface and brush or roll it outward to distribute. You should have an even coat that's as thin as it can be without showing drag marks, bare spots, etc. If you do that, it won't run.

I like to work from one side to the other, applying paint in a leapfrog manner: Dip the brush, scrape one side clean on the container, dab the surface a few inches away from the previously painted area, and work back to it, blending. With a little experience you can actually feel when you have too much or too little paint on an area by the drag on the brush or the stickiness of the roller.


How can I cheaply refresh parquet in an apartment? We've recently rented an apartment with seriously damaged parquet. Since the deal is "take it or leave it", we've decided to "mend" the parquet ourselves.

Dictionary :) Sorry for my bad english, I don't have appropriate translator for some of these stuff, so I'll use these and here's what I think they mean :)
Parquet - wooden floor made of small wooden parts "glued" together
Lacquer - protective coating on the parquet, transparent, (oil based I think)
Emery - rough paper used to "sand" the wood, make it more smooth

The parquet is of relatively cheap kind, the lacquer is completely gone in the middle (leaving the wood exposed and dirty), but there's still some on the edges (about 50% is under lacquer). The proper way to do it is to rent a machine that's removing all of the previous lacquer, flattens the wood further and prepares for a new layer of lacquer. But, we don't want to spend that much money.

Can we just use wooden emery to sand down the parquet that's exposed, and just apply the new layer of lacquer on the whole room? Will the new layer of lacquer stick to the old one or will it fall away when dried? Would it be smart to sand down the previous layer of lacquer just a bit to make it more adhesive to the new layer?

EDIT: The results
First of all, doing sanding by hand is an absolute impossibility - it would take you entire day just to sand out one square meter... So, we purchased the machine for sanding (with circular emery, goes around a cylinder, but with flat bottom) - it's about 30$/40$. But this didn't do the whole trick - because the machine surface is flat, and parquet isn't we couldn't get to the parts that are below the level of neighboring pieces of wood, so we used the drill-mounted-circle-with-emery (or however it's called :)). With all of this, the speed was about 1 square meter per 10/15 minutes. I first thought the lacquer would get hot and sticky and render the emery useless but it really went smooth...(maybe because the existing layer of lacquer was thin, old & worn out).

After that, comes the finishing (lacquer) - we thought about laying out just one layer (to get cheaper) but it just can't be done - the wood "takes in" the lacquer, leaving it dry and not shiny (makes it more difficult to clean afterwards). So, two layers did the trick (with just a "nudge" of sanding in between - it was in the instructions :)), but if you want to get the full effect, 3rd layer would make a difference.

Thanks for the help!

It really depends how clean the floor is.  Particularly where the finish (laquer) has worn off.  The purpose of sanding off the finish, as well as a thin layer of wood is to produce a clean, new floor look.

However, it seems that you are trying to just make it livable, not brand new. Here's what I'd do:

Mop the floor well, with some bleach in the water.  This will clean up some of the wood.
Let the floor dry completely.
Sand with whatever tools you have.  It would be easiest with one of these: Drywall pole sander  if you don't have any power tools.
Smooth out any obvious bumps, but simply just try to rough up the existing finish so the new finish will adhere.
Refinish.


Circuit problem in bathroom It started as a problem with the light in the bathroom. When I switch the light on it causes the GFCI outlet to stop working. However, other lights on the same GFCI outlet still work.

GFCI's trip for a specific reason, that's when there is an imbalance between the current flow of the hot wire of a branch circuit and the neutral of the same circuit. So it's either the fixture itself has some sort of leakage or the switch leg leading to the fixture or the before mentioned you have the switch wired incorrectly. I would try to disconnect the fixture from the circuit and see if the GFCI trips. If it doesn't it's the fixture, replace it. If it does trip it's either the branch wiring or the switch. Be sure and wire nut off the exposed wires while testing without a fixture.

Good luck and stay safe.


Safe to screw on a paper towel holder way above socket? I'm probably overthinking it, but I'm trying to mount the SimpleHuman horizontal paper towel holder. It turns out that the best place for it is in the middle of the inner wall (5.1 inch wide) but above a socket which is located on the bottom of the wall. The three screws are about 1.1 inch each. I'm not drilling a hole, just using a normal mechanical screwdriver. Is this a concern at all?

If you are concerned about the presence of wiring near where you are installing this, grab yourself a stud finder with "live wire" detection from your local hardware store. Entry level models are inexpensive. This way, you can find the studs and the wires. More expensive models may also detect other services (e.g. metal plumbing or gas pipes).

If you are just going to attach the holder with screws, or with the skinny little excuse for anchors usually included with these sort of things, you run the risk of the holder coming out of the wall over time, because at least one of those two mounting holes probably won't line up with a stud (unless you've got some super wide studs).

Grab yourself some drywall anchors or spring toggle devices to get a better hold on the wall. The former looks like a big plastic screw, with room for another screw in the middle, and a flat tip. This is is shown in the first picture below. These bite in to the drywall and get a firm grip, providing you with a rigid hole to screw in to.

The latter (spring toggle, second picture) consists of a screw with spring loaded wings that spring apart after you push them through a wall. Naming may be different in the US, but I would expect they would still be readily available. The objective here is to distribute the load of the holder (and anybody pulling on it) over a greater area to avoid ruining your wall.

Be somewhat wary of the drywall anchors though if you ever want to remove the holder, as they do tend to make a mess when they come out.


What's an easy way to build a level 6'x4' platform over uneven indoor floors? I recently moved into a guest room that has uneven floors. There is a one degree slant over the entire room and some of the tiles are higher and lower than others. I'd like to set up a 6x4 platform over a portion of this room where I do work at my desk, and have just that platform leveled somehow. Other than just setting up some plywood, how would I go about leveling this platform in a simple way suitable for a few months (before we hire a contractor to fix the floors/foundation)?

This is small enough that you can simply build a deck out of 2x4 with a 1/2" plywood top (or thicker, depending on flex tolerance). You're essentially building a typical interior wall structure, but smaller.

Lay out a simple rectangle with joists at 16" centers (across the short dimension). Fasten it together with 16d nails or 3" gold construction screws. Slightly shorter fasteners could be used for the plywood.
Using a 6' level (or a shorter level with a straightedge extension), find the difference from the highest point to the other three corners, and cut legs or simple spacer blocks to level up the platform.

Large felt pads under each corner would make it quieter as you step up and move around.


How can I safely connect a subpanel in a detached garage to the main with a 3-wire connection? This weekend I attempted to install a breaker box into a pre-wired garage.  The previous owners took the breaker box with them when they moved, and since I have installed quite a few subpanels, it seemed like an easy job to replace it.

The subpanels I have installed have always used 4-wire connections, so I was surprised to find that only three wires had been run underground through the conduit, and the ground was attached to a separate rod at the garage.

Reading up on the permits for the house and some NEC info lead me to believe that this was a pre-2005 installation, at which point 3-wire was still allowed to connect a sub to a main in a detached structure.

My question is this:

What is the correct setup for neutral and ground in the sub panel?  Should they be bonded, and do I need to attach a ground to the buried rod at the garage as well?

Specifically, I need to know if this image shows a correct setup before I proceed.  This question has been touched upon in other posts, but not adequately answered:

(source: nachi.org)

If you are in a situation where a 3 wire feeder can be used, you will need to bond the grounded (neutral) conductor to a proper grounding electrode system in the detached building. So yes, the diagram is correct.

NOTE: The grounding electrode system, may be required to be made up of more than a single ground rod.


Should crown molding go over stone fireplace? I understand this is somewhat (design) subjective, but I have no reference to what is common practice when it comes to this type of application.
I'm going to be running (foam) crown molding with LED lighting around the top of the room, a couple of inches off the ceiling for the light, but the fireplace is in the corner. I was thinking I would just go over the top of it, but... now I'm not sure.

I've seen it without the LED lighting, but with lighting like that, should the molding go over stone?

Personally, I'd stop the crown molding at each end of the fireplace with some compound miter end caps unless you're really good with a coping saw. If you run it a couple inches off the ceiling , your recessed lights will leave a shadow at the top of the fireplace. Just my humble opinion.


What causes this brown discoloration in residential water supply? Recently I have noticed a brown discoloration in water from my taps under certain circumstances.

I have a shallow well water supply with minimal gravity feed and a shallow well jet pump with a pressure tank.  The supply line from the well to the pump is ABS.  The plumbing around the pump is mainly lead-free brass.  There is a copper distribution manifold supporting PEX distribution lines to the fixtures.

I first noticed the brown discoloration after one of the brass fittings (a shutoff valve) began to leak.  At around the same time, hot water taps began spitting and spurting as if there was air in the lines.  This happens immediately after the shutoff valve has been opened (and there is an accompanying sound of bubbles in the lines when this happens).  I expect the leaky fitting is letting air into the line after enough water leaks from behind it to depressurize that section of water line.  Typically the pump also operates at around the same time the valve is opened (since it has to re-pressurize the line and then I generally go use water from the taps the line leads to).

The discoloration is most noticeable when the fitting is spurting and letting air out.  If I leave a tap full-open for a minute or so then it seems to clear all the air and the discoloration goes away - until the next time the leaky shutoff is operated.

A water test two years ago resulted in an iron level of 0.226 mg/L and a total dissolved solids of 169 mg/L.

New information: I have replaced the leaking shutoff valve.  The taps no longer spit and spurt and there is no longer any visible discoloration in the water.  After replacing the shutoff valve I flushed the pressure tank but I didn't observe any discoloration in the water coming from that process.  Rubbing my finger on the inside of some non-brass metal fittings (not exactly sure what they are) I had open as part of the replacement process, I found something of a color similar to what I had seen in the water.  This all seems to point towards rusting fittings to my untrained eye.  I'm a bit surprised there would be any fittings in a modern plumbing system that can rust, though.

What causes this discoloration?

Almost certain to be iron rust; a complex oxide/hydrate/hydroxide. Almost certain it came from a component in the water system such as a valve. I have a few steel valves in my sprinkler, they cause red/brown water for a few seconds when turned on. Rust is ( practically) insoluble in tap water. Iron can be soluble in water when it is ferrous ( Fe +2). I once had a home with deep ( 100' ) well. I filled a large above ground swimming pool all afternoon , great looking clear water. The next morning there was a a few inches of reddish loose gel-like stuff covering the bottom . Ferrous iron was dissolved in the well water, overnight the air oxidized it to ferric ( Fe +3) and it settled as "rust". Point being ,the rust is not coming from your well.


Why does my electric shower still have water coming out even though it's switched off? Water still comes out of the shower head even though it's switched off. Please help with a possible solution!!!

I would think most likely the valve in the shower that controls the water flow has failed. It may be possible to replace the valve or you may end up having to replace the whole shower unit.

Follow-up questions:

What is the make and model of the electric shower unit?

What country are you in?


Can I use (share) a 120 leg of the 240 with the neutral to a 120 duplex receptacle in the same box coming off the 240 circuit breaker? I have a 240 volt 20 amp receptacle in 4x4 box. There is a neutral wire not being used in the box. Can I use (share) a 120 leg of the 240 with the neutral to a 120 duplex receptacle in the same box coming off the 240 circuit breaker? There is nothing on the 240v line now, but I want to have it available just in case I want to plug my table saw in and have 120v available at the same time. This is in my man-cave and every 240v and 120v receptacle is on it's own separate circuit breaker.

Check what breaker you have first!

Amazingly enough, this is actually permitted by Code under certain (common, but not universal) circumstances!

What you are creating is a multiwire branch circuit as per 210.4.  Normally, only line-to-neutral loads are allowed, but IF the breaker for this circuit is a two pole common trip unit (most two and three pole breakers are, although if the circuit is fed from the outer sections of a quadruplex breaker, you definitely can't do this as there is no way to get two common trips in that form factor), Exception 2 to 210.4(C) allows the circuit to feed both line-to-neutral and line-to-line loads (and even three phase loads for wye connected three phase MWBCs)

  210.4 Multiwire Branch Circuits.

  (A) General. Branch circuits recognized by this article shall
  be permitted as multiwire circuits. A multiwire circuit shall be
  permitted to be considered as multiple circuits. All conductors
  of a multiwire branch circuit shall originate from the same
  panelboard or similar distribution equipment.

  (B) Disconnecting Means. Each multiwire branch circuit
  shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously
  disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where
  the branch circuit originates.

  Informational Note: See 240.15(B) for information on the
  use of single-pole circuit breakers as the disconnecting means.

  (C) Line-to-Neutral Loads. Multiwire branch circuits
  shall supply only line-to-neutral loads.

  Exception No.1: A multiwire branch circuit that supplies
  only one utilization equipment.

  Exception No.2: Where all ungrounded conductors of the
  multiwire branch circuit are opened simultaneously by the
  branch-circuit overcurrent device.


Is it ok to simply cap off an unused 240v line in a junction box? I have a hard-wired 240v appliance in the garage. A junction box contains the connection between the 8/2 feed from the panel and the 8/2 appliance leads. I am removing the appliance. Is it legal to simply cap off the supply wires and screw the junction box closed? My preference would be to install a 6-50R, but the breaker is only 40a, so that's not an option. Does the breaker in the panel need to be removed/disabled so that the wire isn't live?

California.

First off, you can simply cap off the wires safely and cover the box. The box must remain accessible though, meaning you can't bury it in the wall.

Second, you CAN install a 50A receptacle on that line if it is for a welder.


Is this a floor framing system? what is the difference between joist splices and floor joists? I googled "floor framing" and got lots of results. The following (img_1) is the simpler one.

According to the anotations in the image, there are 7 joists, 2 bearers, 6 stumps, right?

Consider the following image (img_2), is this another floor framing system?

what is the difference between joist splices and floor joists?

Joists are just that, members that carry the sub-flooring or ceiling. A joist splicing occurs where the length of span of the floor is longer than the joists are capable of supporting so a beam or "girder" is placed under the ends of the joists. Joists from either side of the support beam overhang the beam some and overlap with their companion coming from the other side. This picture shows the concept:

Picture Source


Can I use 1" XPS and fiberglass batts instead of 2" XPS insulation in my basement? I have read multiple sources on the internet suggesting use of 2" XPS foam boards to insulate basement foundation and then building a 2x4 wall in front of it.

2" foam board is very expensive when compared to 1" foam board and I am wondering if I will get the same/better results by following EPA air plus recommendation (link below) of using 1" XPS on the foundation and then filling the 2x4 cavities with fiberglass insulation.

http://www.epa.gov/indoorairplus/technical/moisture/1_12.html

As I missing something or do you think I have the right plan ?  I'm in South East Michigan and I have a walkout basement(last year temps dropped below zero for 2 weeks- usually worst night time lows are close to 15 deg F) . The basement gradually goes from 90% below grade to 100% above.

The issue here isn't how well to insulate your basement but it is how to insulate it without trapping water in your walls.

If you double insulated your entire basement you are basically trapping water in your walls Building Science report covers this well.  Water can also sit in fiberglass for a long time - it doesn't dry out fast.  I'm not even proposing that you have a major leak, I am just talking about the normal bleed through concrete.

For your situation I would do the foam board everywhere.  Then I would rock wool to one foot below grade.  So your basement will have different amounts on insulation on different walls.  On a wall that is ground level I would stop a foot off the ground.  Moisture should wick to the bottom and you are giving yourself an air pocket that will help evaporation.  If you feel that you don't want to leave that pocket then I suggest that just the ground level wall gets the 2 inch variety (and I would still rock wool over that).


Repairing lath & plaster wall- structural elements I'm repairing/replacing a lath & plaster external wall in a tenement flat. It has been very badly mould damaged by long term damp, the source of which has now been fixed. The plaster was in very poor condition and most of this has now been removed, however the laths are also rotten. I'm not sure yet if the studs are too.

I'm concerned that if I continue removing all the damaged material, that I might bring the cornicing down (which actually is also damaged) - would that affect how the ceiling is held up? Also the window frame- is that held in place by the material I'm removing?

If so I think I might have to get someone more qualified in.. but would be much better to continue doing it myself. As long as the window frame will hold in place, and the ceiling, then I can continue. Advice much appreciated..

If the lath is rotted the supports are probably also damaged, I would add some temporary support inside by placing a board on the ceiling  close to the wall and one on the floor held in by studs wedged in place  (nothing nailed the top and bottom boards protect the ceiling and floor). It will take 2 people to do this and add enough supports to make sure if while removing the rotted material your wall will not sag, without support. I have repaired very old homes that the owner was trying to repair some dry rot and when he removed the external siding the roofline dropped almost 4 inches damaging the roof and the plaster inside. Once supports are in place the exterior can be safely removed and any rotten studs can be cut and replaced. When all the work is done the inside temporary studs can be knocked out and used on the next project.


I have a depression in my OSB floor caused by a layer of rot I am tiling over OSB board using hardiboard and thinset. I have some water damage from a leaking toilet. The rotted area is about 3 inches square. Once I scraped about a half inch of rot off the top, the floor is still very solid. I don't feel it is necessary to remove the flooring. However, I need to fill it in now so the floor is level before I apply the hardiboard.

What is the best way to do this? Can I just build up the thinset in that spot before I lay the backerboard?  The depression is 1/4"-1/2" deep at most.

A 3x3 repair using the technique you describe is just fine, assuming that it's not in a critical location, such as immediately adjacent to the toilet drain opening. If it is, you might find that the stress of the toilet on that spot results in too much flex. In that case, cut the area out and float some lumber under the patch edges and replace the piece.

Otherwise you're unlikely to have a problem. Thinset mortar won't provide much stiffness, but it's certainly hard enough to  do the job.


Do I need to replace my hot water tank's pressure release valve? Recently we had an extended water outage.  When water came back, pressure in the lines was much higher.  The hot water heater started leaking from the pressure release valve and after flipping it a few times, it didn't stop, so I was prepared to go replace it, but then I accidentally pushed on the end of the pull bar that goes to the valve and the flow stopped.

Tried flipping it again, it leaked again, pushed the bar and it stopped.

Am I right in thinking the spring is shot, time to replace it?

I would replace the P-T valve regardless, as it sounds questionable. They're about $10-15, plus usually a pipe directing it to the floor or even a nearby floor drain (which you can probably re-use).

It's a safety device that prevents your tank from over-pressurizing (which in very extreme cases can actually cause an incredibly powerful explosion -- check youtube for some entertaining mythbusters clips). You also don't want it to trip accidentally, as it will pour a lot of very hot water out and will not stop until the P-T valve shuts itself off automatically (unlikely if it's broken), or someone shuts off an upstream valve. If your floor drain is clogged, or gets overwhelmed, you have a flooded basement/house.


Adding an outlet to a circuit I'd like to add an outlet behind our television.  I was going to pull power from an the outlet in the picture.  The outlet used to be switched, but the light switch has been re wired so it no longer controls the outlet.  How do I pull power from this outlet?
Also, I am out of 12/2 so I would like to use some 12/3 I have. I can do this, and either cut off the red or wirenut it right?

Easy peasy.

The black wires in the back of the box are certainly always-hot.

The white wires are certainly neutral, and they are using the receptacle to be a splice (i.e. To replace a wire nut) while also supplying the receptacle.

The red is your switched hot from the switch, which you defeated.

You want to add a third hot and neutral from your new cable.  It would also be nice to power the receptacle straight off the always-hot (black) and abandon that extra loop up to the switch.  It would also be nice to stop using those unreliable and troublesome "back stab" wire connections.

You can't use two wiring methods (backstab and screw) on the same receptacle, so you can't splice 3 wires to a receptacle.  The exception is the Leviton "screw-and-clamp" types, which support 4 wires per side and are about $3.00.  Alternately you could pigtail the receptacle.

So I would add the new cable.   Join the now-3 black wires on the brass side of the Leviton screw-and-clamp, or the 4 wires (with pigtail from the receptacle) with a red wire nut.   Same thing with the whites.

Red wire nuts are ideal to bind four #12s or #14s, it helps to tape any 2 wires together so you are trying to line up 2 bound pairs of wires instead of four loose ones.

As for the red, I would splice the existing and your new red together with a yellow wire nut. Cap the red wire off in the new receptacle, and also go back into the switch box and cap it off there.  Now it's de-energized, but it's in the wall in case the next homeowner wants to set up a switched outlet at either old or your new location.


Strange problems that might be due to wiring A few facts:
This house is in unincorporated Lake county Indiana
This house is all electric.
Was built in 1993.
Has all 20amp breakers.
Has all 15amp outlets (the cheaper type).
The problem:
Electronic devices seem to fail far sooner then they should.
Had two infants on apnea monitors that had a hard drive to record memory of breathing rates, etc...neither would record any memory..the company gave us two more, same problem. They had never experienced this kind of problem.
Turning on hair dryer causes lights in the bathroom to dim.
The blower motor on the furnace keeps burning out. Right now it is working on a lower amp fan that doesn't really keep up.

What could this be? I'm thinking of replacing all the outlets with 20amps. Am I wasting my time?  Any help would be appreciated.

You can't replace 15A outlets with 20A outlets, even if the breakers are 20A, without first ensuring that the entire cable run is of appropriate gauge (and material) for 20A use. Otherwise you risk setting fire to your home.

I would check the voltages at the outlets using a CAT-II rated multimeter. You could alternatively use something like a Kill-a-watt plug-in meter.

I would also investigate how to get the supply quality assessed over time for surges, spikes etc.

Some better-quality UPSs allow you to log voltage over time, and perhaps events like spikes or surges, on a connected PC.


Electrical plug at bathroom sink, can it be located in a cabinet next to bathroom sink? To fulfill code requirements - can an electrical plug at bathroom sink be located in a cabinet next to sink

No, the receptacle within an adjacent cabinet does not satisfy the code requirement.

  210.52(D) - Bathrooms.

  In dwelling units, at least one receptacle outlet shall be installed
  in bathrooms within (3 ft) of the outside edge of each basin. The
  receptacle outlet shall be located on a wall or partition that is
  adjacent to the basin or basin countertop, located on the countertop,
  or installed on the side or face of the basin cabinet. In no case
  shall the receptacle be located more than (12 in.) below the top of
  the basin.

  210.52 - Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets

  The receptacles required by this section shall be in addition to any
  receptacle that is:

  (3) Located within cabinets or cupboards


Water Dripping out of Overflow Pipe outside of house near my kitchen? I have a overflow? pipe near the kitchen drain on the outside of the house that's been leaking as of late, and I'm curious if anyone knows what the pipe is, what it does, and how to fix the issue?

Notes about my house: Heater is in the garage, kitchen is like 20 ft from there. AC is the other side of the house.

Even though the water heater is some distance away it is still the most likely candidate for the source of this overflow pipe.  I would replace the pop-off valve on the water heater.  See if things change.


240V wiring and a thermostat Newbie here. I do a bit of home electrical work at the most basic level. (Replacing outlets and switches. Running a new line off an existing outlet. Nothing that would even elevate me to an amateur status.) I am smart enough to know to always turn off the breaker and to always double-check to make sure it is off. The rest, I know, is enough to make me dangerous.

So, I'm trying to figure out what is going on here. I am in US. I have a 240V 30A breaker that powers two 240V heaters in two different rooms. Both heaters draw less than 8A and both have their own dedicated thermostat. The heaters do not have built-in thermostats. I am replacing the thermostats with 'smart' thermostats. (The Mysa thermostat.) Picture of the existing thermostats below.

I did some research. I watched YouTube videos on 240V. I read the heater wiring diagrams. I read (twice) the Mysa install documentation. I pulled off the first thermostat on that circuit and it was exactly what I expected. 2 wires coming in from the breaker (red and black) and 2 wires going to the heater. I followed the instructions, triple-checked my work, put the new thermostat on the wall, and threw the breaker back on. Ta da! Smart thermostat bliss!

Breaker back off. Removed the other thermostat. WTF???!!!  There were only 2 wires in the box. One was connected to a red. The other was connected to a corresponding black. The other red and black were not connected and had wire nuts capping them off.

The heater works, but based on my (VERY LIMITED) understanding of 240V, I have no clue what is going on here. Or even how this is supposed to be working. The heater is definitely a 240V heater. Is there something sneaky / sketchy going on inside the wall that I can't see?

I'd appreciate it if anyone has suggestions.

With the limited info provided I will guess that it is a 240v heater as the other one was but this time they only used a single pole thermostat to control the power, it works the negative here is that there will always be a hot conductor in the baseboard unless the breaker is turned off, this used to be quite common, or was used with multiple heaters in 1 room. Each of the switches in the thermostat can control a 240v load, but by not breaking both hot conductors there is always power to the heater but no current flow until the switch closes providing a path for current flow.


Which should be first, pressure reducer or backflow preventer? Question pretty much says it all.  I'm installing a sprinkler system in the yard, and discovered the pressure is too high (valves were leaking when on, and kick when turned on/off).  I can see whichever device comes first reducing the work of the second device, but I expect it's the potential failure cases which would make it matter if one came before the other.  If it matters.

I say BFP first.

The backflow preventer must be installed before any point in the system where the line becomes "open" to the introduction of pollutants that would make the water unsafe for drinking (fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, animal wastes, bacteria, and other things you generally find in your topsoil). While a pressure reducer's basic operation (most are similar to a gas regulator, where a spring-driven piston controls an inlet) is generally "closed", most designs also have overpressure reliefs that vent liquid from the regulator in cases where the "downstream" pressure becomes dangerously high (freezing temperatures, or conversely overheating). This relief valve opens the regulator (and the water in it) to the introduction of pollutants, and so it must be "downstream" of the backflow preventer to safeguard the potable water supply.

Now, as SteveR said, if the pressure reducer is designed and intended to regulate the pressure to the entire water service (reducing the pressure from the mains to a safe level for home plumbing) then its design will ensure that it cannot introduce pollutants in any situation (usually it won't have an overpressure relief) and so it's safe to place in front of a sprinkler backflow preventer. However, if this is a reg for sprinkler systems (i.e. drip irrigation) then it must come after the backflow preventer for the system.


Stopping air leaks in attic I am attempting to take care of air leaks in the attic before new insulation is put in and I have a few questions.

Along areas of the roof line there is light that comes through. I don't have soffit vents. I assume I should seal these? What is the best method?
I have two ceiling fans that have pretty large gaps between the box and drywall. This seems too large for foam without getting foam into the box. I was thinking of just using recessed light cover. Is there a better idea?

Here is a pic from the outside of the same area where the light was coming through. The gap scene there is just the space between the gutter and soffit and not the actual gap scene from inside the attic. The roof was replaced 3yrs ago and proper roof vents were installed too.

The reason eaves have this open space is so that moisture doesn't build up in the attic and cause rot. Completely sealing them off is generally not a great idea.

Attic insulation generally goes on top of the ceiling surface -- the space between there and the roof will generally be outside of the temperature-controlled part of the house anyway. It shouldn't really matter if the attic itself gets too hot or too cold. The main issues are vermin and moisture. There are vents you can install, and wire mesh will help with the vermin.

If you want to insulate a larger space than foam can handle, there are things called foam backing rods you can buy to fill large gaps -- once you've inserted it, there will be a much smaller gap between the foam backing rod and the surfaces, which can be filled with spray-in foam.


How to repair exposed waterproofing underlayment caused when removing a slate tile on deck? I inadvertently chipped away too much mortar bed, exposing the bituthene waterproofing underlayment, while replacing a slate tile on my deck.  I'm not sure whether to repair with additional thinset mortar when I lay the new tile or apply a silicone roofing sealant before the thinset.

If you have not punctured/pierced the membrane, fill it with mortar/thinset and tile away.


Preparing friable plaster for painting We have a wall that has not been looked after at all. Rising damp caused peeling. Other places just peeled anyway. It probably wasn't repainted in at least a decade or more, maybe 2 decades.

So, we scrubbed and scraped it down with a wire brush and putty knife to remove loose and flaky paint. We will probably need to spray with a pressure sprayer too.

Not all the paint comes off or will. So we are left with areas that are still painted, areas that are bare plaster and areas that are a mix.

In addition, the plaster is mostly sand and is very friable.

What is the best option to penetrate and 'save' the plaster but to also overcoat where the paint still adheres?

I thought bonding liquid but apparently that will not penetrate well and really only bonds the top particles to each other but not to the layers below. Will plaster primer be ok over old paint like that? That should penetrate better I think especially if I thin it. Do I use water-based primer or solvent based?

Any other options?

The guys at Plascon explained to me that bonding liquid gets the best penetration over other priming methods. I should probably replaster but since that's not affordable here's hoping for the best!


How should I hang joists that are supposed to be doubled, but that will sit over the joining of two boards? I need to hang a 22' ledger board, but I can only get treated boards up to 20' in length.  The deck plan calls for a doubled joist at the 18' mark, which is where the edge of the main body of the deck meets the upper stair landing (a 4x4 landing).  So it's a doubled rim, and the seam to the landing at the same time, I suppose.
So, the problem is that I need to split the ledger into two boards and I'm trying to figure out the best place to do it.
To further complicate things, the ledger is being hung on a brick veneer wall, so I plan to use these Simpson BVLZ connectors to do it.  Since I am going to have joists 12" OC, that leaves very little room in each joist cavity in which to place this ledger joint.
My thought is to split the ledger into a 4' board and an 18' foot board so that the split sits at the double joist I mentioned earlier.  But that means I either have to do it using two concealed single hangers sitting side-by-side, or use a double hanger that would be attached across the seam.

Is either one of these options allowable?  Preferable?  Is there another way I'm not thinking of?
P.S.:  just after posting this it occurred to me that since there will actually be two posts under the stair landing (only one is shown in the image), that part of the ledger should carry minimal weight, meaning I could eliminate one BVLZ to free up a joist bay in which to place the seam.  That means one very large and one very tiny ledger board, I suppose.  Thoughts on this additional consideration?

If I understand your question correctly, the problem is that the green highlighted double joist is going to land on the joint between your two boards making up the 22' ledger attached to the house.
I see a couple of options:

So long as the fasteners (ledger to wall) aren't in the way of the joist hangers, have the ledger joint right there and use a standard double joist hanger.

Make your ledger out of a 12' and a 10' board, thus moving the joint between ledger pieces away from the doubled joist and eliminating the problem all together.  This could move the joint to behind another joist hanger, which could present the same issue, but in a different location, so...

Make your ledger out of two 12' boards, each cut to an appropriate length so that the joint falls conveniently between joists. This allows you to securely fasten at the edge of each ledger board and to use your joist hangers without fear/concern about running into the fasteners at the edge anywhere along the line.

You'll probably find that even two 12' boards are going to be cheaper than a 20' and a 8' anyway. 20 footers are pricey, especially since lumber prices have spiked over the last 6-9 months. I don't recall my local big-box lumber yard selling 18' lengths - I believe the standards are 8', 10', 12', 16' and 20'. Since the ledger will be firmly attached to the house, it can be made up of shorter pieces without worry.
If your calculations show that the joint between a 10' and 12' board will not fall behind a joist position, option #2 would be easier and less expensive, so option #2 would be preferable. Don't forget that you can put either board at either end, so you've got 2 possible locations for the joint.
If you can't make option #2 work out, go with option #3.
Honestly, if the pricing and spacing works to your advantage, you could use three 8' boards as your ledger.


Does leaving the Central AC on all day and all night cause the motor to burn or compressor line to freeze up? I'm not suggesting doing this or whatever, I just want to know the answer.  Let's say it is 80 deg F outside and I put the AC on 50 deg F.  Obviously this will cause the AC to run all day, would this running all day cause the motor to burn or would the AC be fine?  Would the Compressor lines freeze? Again this is a general, model agnostic, question.  You can assume it's a good functioning unit with no obvious problems.

With a properly functioning system no the motor will not burn up. And the coils and line set may show some frost but would not freeze up.

If you leave the system running and there is a drastic temp drop things might ice up a little but the throttle valve will start restricting the flow of refrigerant so the compressor may start cycling , systems usually have a minimum off time so the cycling will not over heat the motor. For systems with simple orifices the pressure switch turns off the compressor until time to start again.
Most all residential compressors have internal thermal overloads that stop the motor from operating if they get two hot. This is yet another safety so no a properly operating hvac system will not burn up if left on all the time.


Is there a technique on how to remove aluminum soffit without damaging it? I Need to remove some existing  sofit so I can  get access to install an electrical outlet  for a motorized awning  . The sofit is 18 inches wide .
Is there a  technique  or  tool that  will allow me to remove this without damaging  it ?

Assuming you have metal fascia as well, gently remove the nails securing a section of it where you need to work. Flex it out, then remove the hidden nails holding the soffit. Lower the soffit panels slightly by tilting them downward, and slide them past the fascia individually.

Reinstallation is the reverse.


wiring hrv in a confusing house some beautiful pictures

first time posting apologies if my placement is off

Buying HRV.
I am debating between two units, venmar evo5-700 which doesn’t support furnace interlock or lifebreath rnc205, which does support furnace interlock. Based on my duct setup (simplistic) I would likely need interlock. I am in Canada and during winter the house gets humid during winter, tons of frost on windows.

Ill will include as many pictures as I can, including a visio drawing.

The setup has a fresh air intake, others have indicated there is likely an electronic controlled damper, however I know on the fresh air intake there is only a manual damper, it is currently visible near the furnace and I do not recall a damper along the duct while I was drywalling the basement.

Upstairs we have an ecobee (pictured) which controls furnace, ac and humidifier. And a ventilation switch which controls the furnace fan and the bathroom fan.

Downstairs, I have traced most the wires, the vent switch goes to a junction box labeled “MUF” which goes to a transformer and then a relay (G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB) and then to a switch (RIBX24SBA) near the panel which is set to closed, which means on, I tested with multimeter. This switch controls a 14/2 wire which I now know goes to the hood range fan plug in the kitchen. Which makes no sense because you wouldn’t be able to turn on the range fan without the vent switch on.

As well there is a junction box labeled “cold switch” this has power from the panel to the furnace, as well a another 14/2 wire which is wired backwards (black on white from power and black on black to furnace), no idea where this wire goes or if its relevant.

Finally, there is the random 3 wire low voltage wire dangling that I assume comes from the same wall as the ecobee, I have not confirmed this but based on ducts and location It would be possible to rout new wires to basement from ecobee/vent switch wall.

I know this is a lot of information, essentially, I just want to install an HRV unit and want to wire it the best way possible. Ideally it would be controlled through the ecobee but I gather I can not control a second device (on top of my humidistat). I know you can get digital control panels for hrv’s, which again I could setup on the same wall, though it would be nice to replace the current vent switch, the problem being it is running 14/2 wire so I would need to get a receptacle switch which may not have all the programable features, maybe a timer. It would be nice to wire it to turn on whenever the furnace turns on, then I could set the ecobee to run the fan every hour or so, not sure if you are supposed to do that. Though I think most set the HRV’s dynamically, so they push out moisture in winter and don’t run them in the summer except for fresh air intake. In my case I know I would need it running lots in winter.

TL/DR; ambitious person in lockdown procrastinating on schoolwork by installing an HRV, confident in duct work but no idea how I should wire the thing.

Consider a lunos or a couple lunos.

https://foursevenfive.com/lunos-e

Do you humidify in the winter?  If so you might want an ERV core.

What are you hoping to achieve with the HRV/ERV?

In a tight house an HRV runs all the time doing .33 ACH to remove VOC, moisture, etc.


Can a dryer heat coil be used after it gets bent out of shape? I was taking apart my dryer, and in getting the drum out, I bent some of the coils in the heating element.  I don't see anything broken, it's just not as spaced evenly in a couple of places. I'm going to get it as even as I can.
Is there a danger in using this element, provided I make sure the coils don't touch the metal base and the drum?

I've replaced my heater coil twice in the past year. I suspect the first install failed because one curl eventually made contact with the frame. At no point during both installations were the coils spaced evenly, including taking the element from the box.
You're correct to avoid contact and the rest should not be a problem. The air passing over the coils won't care if there's uneven spacing. There may be sag as the element heats, something I overlooked the first time. If you allow a few millimeters clearance for sag, contact can be avoided.


Cinder Block Foundation - Excessive Moisture My garage has such excessive moisture that I am often replacing pliers and other tools due to the constant rust that forms on their surface.
It is not currently thermally regulated, but I have considered a dehumidifier (though, with such a large opening for the door, I feel like it would be moot).
The bottom floor is built out of cinder block, and is built into the grade of the hill. It appears as if they may have tarred the outside of the building, however I still get water weeping through the wall.
I've read that some people apply some sort of water-blocking paint to the inside, however that seems like it would invite frost-jacking when it freezes out.

What would be a good way to control the moisture, and prevent the intrusion short of excavating the entire perimeter of the building?
I have a "whole house" fan on the top of the building, not sure if this will invite more moisture or help remove it.
Since I've had this issue for a while now, I tend to leave the windows open to help it "breathe"... Again, this may not help either. I can't decide if making it air tight is better (condensing the moisture inside), or having openings (inviting the moisture to exit) is better.

The problem is obvious from the picture. The water sheds down that hill right where the house is. There is a house near me that is at the base of a hill and it floods regularly even though mine does not. It is because he is at the base of the hill.

To solve the problem, you need to dig a trench between the house and the hill that is deeper than your foundation and put a drainage pipe in the bottom of the trench to drain the water somewhere else.


Cleanest way to empty shop vac? I've been cutting a lot of MDF and using my shop vac on the dust collection port of my table saw. I've never been a fan of emptying my shop vac but this definitely makes it worse.

You can't place trash bags inside there, or maybe you could with a weight, but my method of sticking everything into a trash bag and banging it out is blowing a lot of dust around my shop.

What's the most pain free way to clean out a shop vac?

Filter bags

One of the cleanest way to empty a shopvac is with a filter bag.  Most dust will be caught in your bag and not in the shopvac tank.  You just have to remove the bag and replace with a new one.  If you use your shopvac a lot, it can become expensive on the long run.
Cyclone Collector

Another solution is to add a separation stage to your shopvac.  That's usually done by adding a cyclone collector.  The idea is pretty simple, it's to collect bigger chips and dust particles in a regular trashcan or bucket and then send the rest in your shopvac. That way, you won't have to empty or clean your shopvac as often.  It can also be combined with the filter bags to reduce the amount of bags you use.
Extra reading on dust collecting and cyclones

Bill Pentz has done some extensive research and work on this subject.  Keep in mind when reading his site that he has developed some allergies to saw dust.
Phil Thien also has a separator lid.
You can also most likely buy a pre-made one online or at a local retailer.


Can I drywall over a skylight without removing it? Is it possible to put a ceiling over an existing skylight without removing the skylight? It's not leaking. We just want to divide the room in the middle of the skylight. Would it pose problems with heat building up inside the shaft?

You could extend the wall up into the skylite cavity but still keep it open and light both rooms...


How can I fix this entry door light? I've got this going on. Can anyone take me through the steps on how to fix this situation?

Edit: Alright I got up there with a ladder and took this video. Can anyone take a look at the video and give me a prescription of what I need to do?

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvz3dsbG0a0&feature=youtu.be

Picture:

From the video you provided, it looks like a recessed light fixture that is missing the trim.

You should try to find some identifying marks on the inside of the fixture and then find a compatible outdoor trim.


Store Refrigerator, Keeps Doors Open How Often I plan to store refrigerator in my residence unplugged. I cleaned it well with all soap, 409 and disinfectant, and left doors open to dry out for few days.

They recommend to keep Doors Open for long term refrigerator storage. This prevents mold and mildew growth when unplugged. Question is, I want to keep doors closed when guests come for aesthetic purpose (instead of having piece of cardboard/stopper sticking out).

Is it okay, to leave doors open at night before sleep, (8 hours a day). Would this strategy be sufficient and if correct, how many days, should many days per weeks? Everyday? 3-4 times? Currently live in part of US where temperature is moderate 50-80, low humidity etc, Just want to be sure,

https://www.kentstorage.com.au/how-to-store-a-refrigerator-in-storage

I have an unused fridge in our shop that my son always closes.  I open it but it may not be until a weekend when I find it. So I can say it has been out there for 3 years and regularly is closed on a Monday or Tuesday and I find it on Friday or Saturday. It is a backup we had repaired so I don’t need it, but may so I want it clean. 1 time it started growing mold but sure how long it was closed. I added a bowl of baking soda to each side and doors are open at least 2 days per week, result with no mold for ~3 years. The one time mold did grow, I was gone for 2 months. I added baking soda after that with no issues so far (I did add new baking soda about a year ago and probably should again. I live in Oregon so relative humidity is not high like back East. But I would say a few days a week of being open have worked so far.


Locating a Weatherstrip for door that is NOT foam and vinyl I have a standard Kerf weatherstrip for my door. Because it is made of vinyl and foam, my cat can shred it to pieces.
Is there another type of weatherstrip (rubber, silicone, etc.) that will be more resistant to the cats clawing? I need a thicker size. I've checked out the bulb kerf weatherstrips but they only seem to get up to 1/2". I need about a 1" bulb. I've been looking online for hours now, and I'm hoping someone has a lead for me. Thanks!

Metal weatherstrips used to be popular, and you can still find them, but there's a reason they fell out of fashion: they require very tight tolerances at the door/jamb interface, and even if you set them up perfectly, they still don't seal as well as soft weatherstrips. I'd look into alternate solutions, like installing a storm door outside the main one.


In this plumbing code illustration, what are the meanings of "SH" "WC" "BT" "LAV", etc? The image below, taken from this plumbing code page, has an "SH" going to the middle pipe with the trap in it. Does anyone know what the "SH" stands for, or the "BT" and "WC" ones for that matter?

The reason I ask is it seems to match the layout of some roughed in pipes coming out of my basement floor I asked about here. I thought maybe knowing this will help me confirm what I have.

Shamefully stolen from ArchToolbox's webpage of Plumbing and Fire Protection Abbreviations.
This is a link to that page.

... found by using google to search for these 6 terms: wc sh lav bt plumbing acronyms.
This is a link to that google search.

AP    Access Panel                    HW    Hot Water
BT    Bath Tub                        HWR   Hot Water Return
BWV   Back Water Valve                HWS   Hot Water Supply
CFH   Cubic Feet per Hour             ID    Inside Diameter
CFM   Cubic Feet per Minute           INV   Invert
CI    Cast Iron                       IW    Indirect Waste
CLDI  Cement Lined Ductile Iron       MECH  Mechanical
CO    Cleanout                        MSB   Mop Service Basin
CONC  Concrete                        NC    Normally Closed
CP    Chrome Plated                   NO    Normally Open
CTE   Connect to Existing             OD    Outside Diameter
CW    Cold Water                      OED   Open End Drain
CWR   Cold Water Return               PIV   Post Indicator Valve
CWS   Cold Water Supply               PLBG  Plumbing
DCVA  Double Check Valve Assembly     PSI   Pounds per Square Inch
DF    Drinking Fountain               RPBP  Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventer
DIA   Diameter                        SA    Shock Absorber
EL    Elevation                       SH    Shower
ELEV  Elevation                       SHWR  Shower
EWC   Electrical Water Cooler         SK    Sink
FCO   Floor Cleanout                  SS    Soil Stack, Stainless Steel
FEC   Fire Extinguisher Cabinet       TLT   Toilet
FHV   Fire Hose Valve                 TS    Tamper Switch
FLR   Floor                           TW    Tempered Water
FP    Fire Protection                 TYP   Typical
FS    Flow Switch                     U     Urinal
FT    Foot or Feet                    V     Vent
FV    Flush Valve                     VB    Vacuum Breaker
GALV  Galvanized                      VS    Vent Stack
GI    Grease Interceptor              VTR   Vent Through Roof
GPF   Gallons per Flush               W     Waste
GPM   Gallons per Minute              WC    Water Closet (Toilet)
HC    Handicapped                     WS    Waste Stack


How can I wire several receptacles between three-way switches so they're half switched? I have 12/2 power into first switch, 12/3 through all three split receptacles and to the second switch. I just can't wrap my head around the right connections.

Since OP has indicated that wiring is accessible via an attic crawl space, here is a solution that requires adding another run of 12/3 between the two switch boxes. The currents in each cable are balanced, no box has more than three wire nuts, and neutral is available at one of the switches.

Add a 12/3 run from one switch box to the other. This doesn't need to go anywhere near the outlet boxes, and certainly should not add to the outlet box fills by passing through them.
Feed the constant-hot to the far switch via the new cable. In the diagram I used the red wire so that each switch would have three different colors on its terminals. This should be marked with black paint or tape to indicate it is now constant-hot.
Use the other two wires as travelers back to the near switch. These should be marked with yellow paint or tape to indicate they are now travelers. This completes a standard three-way switch loop which is completely independent from the outlet runs.
Now in the near switch box you have neutral, constant-hot, and switched-hot. Distribute these to the outlets via the 12/3 segments in the usual fashion.
The switch loop current is confined to the long 12/3 and is balanced, and the outlets current is confined to the distribution 12/3 segments and is balanced.
Do NOT use the existing last 12/3 segment to provide a neutral connection at the far switch box. Remove that segment (don't just cap it off, rip it out) so that no future maintainer will attempt to use it and accidentally create an unbalanced circuit.


How do I prepare an already painted wall for new paint? We are repainting a number of rooms in our home, do we need to put primer over the existing paint?

Are there any other gotchas that we need to prepare for before repainting the walls?

No, in general, you don't need to prime existing paint, but there are exceptions.

To prepare for repainting:

wash the wall to remove any grease.
fill any holes and cracks with suitable filler, possibly using flexible filler for longer cracks. Unless you're an expert you won't get the filler flush with the existing wall so you'll need a filler you can sand.
sand and prime the filled areas - priming will seal the filler and keep it in place. If there are a lot of filled areas, you might want to sand and possibly prime the whole wall to avoid a patchy look.
repaint the wall with at least two coats of your new colour.

If the cracks are large you might want to check there's not a current movement problem. New houses will settle quite a bit when first built and there'll even be some movement in older homes. If there is current movement then you'll be seeing new cracks appear and older cracks getting longer and/or wider.

If you are painting over a dark colour with a light colour you might need more than 2 coats to stop the previous colour showing through. If that's the case then using a primer or basic white matt emulsion for the first coat (or two if it's really dark) is a more cost effective option than using the more expensive coloured paint for all the coats. Unfortunately you don't always find that out in time.

Paint in full daylight - especially for the final coat - so you can see where you've been and be methodical.


How do I install this knee brace to my pergola post? I have built a 7' x 13' pergola over my deck and have a slight wobble, so I intend to install some knee braces.  Each post has two pairs of perpendicular beams stretching to the adjacent posts.  For the brace-beam connection, a simple through bolt will be easy to do.  But what's the best way to secure the brace-post connection ?

I was hoping to use a through bolt here too, but can't figure out how to create a surface to hold a washer to the angled face of the brace.  Any suggestions?

Prior to drilling the "through-hole", mark the location on both sides and use a paddle-style wood boring bit slightly larger than the O.D. of your flat washer, to make a large flat-bottomed hole.

Make the holes no deeper than necessary to make the nut, washer, and bolt end sit flush (you would need a shorter bolt).

For more precise creation of a flat-bottomed hole you could also use a Forstner style drill bit, but they are significantly more expensive than a paddle-bit. It depends on how nice and clean you want the hole to be.


When would you want/have/need to put in a post filter in an electrostatic air filter system? The HVAC system has an Electrostatic air cleaning system and it uses a prefilter and has a slot for a post filter.  I've been reading online that only the prefilter is good enough to get the job done at the rated efficiency.
In this Covid times, I'd like to make sure the air inside our house is healthy as possible.
My question then is: Would putting a post filter help with making the air cleaner? or would it just put an unnecessary strain on the system?

The only reason or use I could see for a post-filter on an electrostatic would be to run a carbon filter for non-particulate odors and/or ozone (which can be a normal byproduct of electrostatic filter operation) reduction.


AFCI breaker trips on the second start of table/miter saw I recently purchased a new table saw and miter saw and they are tripping my AFCI breakers. Curiously, each saw starts up and runs fine the first time I try it and I can stop it without tripping the breaker. If I attempt to restart the saw shortly after stopping it, the breaker trips. I haven't tried waiting a longer period of time yet.
The breaker is a Siemens AFCI and the LED on the breaker confirms that it is an AFCI fault (and not a GFCI fault) that is causing it to trip.
Another possible piece to the puzzle: the saws are in the garage which is super cold at the moment (-30 degrees celcius).
Two questions:

Why does it seem to only trip the breaker on the second attempt?

I'm curious if the breaker has some kind of memory from the previous startup load that pushes it over a threshold and causes it trip on the second start, or if it's something specific to the second start of the saw motor.

Is there any kind of "filter" I can put between the saw and the outlet to avoid tripping the AFCI?

Arc Fault detection is done in the breaker with an electronic board and a set of sensors feeding it, connected to a trip relay. In the electronics, there is a microprocessor that is looking at the current sensor data using an "Arc Signature Filter" algorithm. Every mfr of AFCI breakers and receptacles has their own version of this Arc Signature Filter, it is their "secret sauce" so to speak. The concept behind the Arc Signature Filter is to look at the current and discriminate "normal" patterns of arcing that might come from certain equipment, from abnormal patterns. Those patterns have characteristics of amplitude, frequency and periodic discontinuities that set them apart from what might otherwise be considered normal.
The type of motors used for small appliances and power tools, called "Universal Motors" that have brushes in them, are the very thing an AFCI Arc Signature Filter is looking for. But in reality, it's a matter of how extensively the mfr investigated it with regard to ALL of the different types of appliances and tools that use them.
So now comes the Miter Saw. The big difference here is that, unlike your blender, vacuum cleaner or hand drill that all use Universal Motors, the Miter Saw adds another element to it, called "Plug Braking" to make the dangerous saw blade stop quickly when you release the trigger. It does this by briefly reversing the motor to make it stop. So again, being a brushed motor, that means arcing of those brushes when you STOP, not just when you run. So my suspicion is that this comes into play with the "periodic discontinuities" aspect of the Arc Signature Filter. The fact that you turn it off, then turn it on again, adds up to something that the filter is interpreting as an arcing fault. You could confirm this by waiting a while before turning it on again.


Are neutral wires linked to the neutral bar in the fuse box safe to touch We have a tipical fuse box, fuses and neutral wires connected to a neutral bar.

Let's say we have a closed circuit with a light bulb attached to it.

The bulb is working. The neutral wire is connected to the neutral bar in the fuse box.

Other neutral wires are connected to the neutral bar.

In my opinion the other neutral wires have curent in them from the light bulb.

Are they safe to touch?

If and only if everything is working

For a theoretical panel, neutral is theoretically safe to touch if:

the panel is wired to modern spec
the panel is wired correctly
workmanship is all proper
no wire/hardware failures (note: this is a different thing than "wired correctly")
The supply transformer is isolating, and not leaking enough 9600V primary current to override the transformer's grounding rod (dirt isn't much of a conductor, that's why we don't just wrap it in insulation and call it wire)
you are not in the Philippines

But then, if all that was true, you wouldn't be opening up your panel, would you? :)

But yes.  If things are in order, there will be a grounding electrode system going from ground rods, metal water pipe or Ufer tie-in to your basement's reinforcing rod, which establishes contact with earth proper.  There will be one at the transformer tying to neutral, and one at each building's most main panel tying to ground.

Next, in every building the grounding electrode system will be bridged to the service-wide network of green, green/yellow or bare wire, or metal conduit, known as the equipment grounding conductor, or colloquially "ground" in the electrician's context, not to be confused with GND or Vss in electronics, which is why I steer out of my way to call this equipment safety ground.  No current ever flows on this except during a fault condition.

Finally, one place in every service (i.e point fed by an electric meter, customer demarcation point, etc.), typically at the service point, has a neutral-ground equipotential bond.  That has several jobs. Relevant to your question, it is to do exactly what you are concerned about: clamp neutral so it is near ground and cannot kill you.  No current sgould flow on it because no current should be on ground, and transformers shouldn't leak.

By the way, the neutral-ground bond is a great place to put a clamp ammeter. Helps to wire your panel so that is easy.

In a residential setup, you optimistically have several houses sharing a transformer, and the transformer and each house's neutral-ground bonds are all wrestling neutral down to safe voltages. In an industrial setup, that is not the case, and I got a real eye-opener when a transformer's only neutral-ground was not actually attached.

  I was working on a branch circuit, and to make sure the breaker was off, I brushed hot across the edge of the steel junction box.  There was no blinding arc flash, but something else - the light changed subtly.  Doing it again, the circuit powered back up, and a fluorescent light came on.  How could that happen? If hot is grounded, neutral is --  I measured neutral-ground: 120V. Crossed wire, in my work!? No.  I checked other circuits, it's the whole main panel.  HMMM!  Where's that coming from!?  Well, after shutting off 1 circuit at a time, it finally extinguished.  Turns out an unrelated circuit had a bolted hot-ground fault, which was bonding hot pole L1 to ground, for lack of a neutral-ground bond to argue the other way.  Normally this would cause unlimited current in series from L1 via the breaker, L1 wire, fault, equipment safety ground, neutral-ground bond and back to neutral, and snap the breaker.  As it was, it only flowed current when a second ground fault occurs, which I induced by flashing my circuit's hot to ground.

Neutral could have bitten me at any time, why didn't it? I like to credit good practices: I treat neutral and other ”known”-dead wires as if they're live.  The takeaway is this:

Neutral is live until you have done a physical inspection that all the earthing hardware is in working order, and done an electrical test to confirm.


Can two antennas in proximity interfere with each other if they're not amplified? I've read that one should be careful when mounting two (unidirectional) antennas on the same mast because their electrical fields may interfere with each other. Further advice stated there should be a vertical distance of at least 2-4 feet between them.

Question: if both antennas aren't amplified, will electrical interference still be an issue?

For the wavelengths you're trying to receive, keep everything else more than 1 wavelength away. So for VHF FM radio keep other antennas or metal that would act like an antenna 10 feet away if you're trying to pick up far away stations. Same with UHF TV, 2-3 feet away is good for a far away station.

In reality though, most signals/stations are so powerful that a little signal attenuation won't make a difference. With digital TV there is error correction as well, so you either get it or you don't unlike analog TV where you deal with all kinds of noise.

If you need to share a mast, then just do it. Ideally you'd have a 300 foot tower too, but most signals are so strong you don't have to. Worst case just get a higher dBi one to offset any losses.


Stick ceramic tile to outside brick wall What's the best way to permanently stick a ceramic tile to an outside brick wall?

The back of the tile is unglazed, so I'm looking for a solution that will also help protect the tile from the wet British weather.

Options currently in mind are (but open to suggestions):

Mortar
Construction adhesive

There is the option to mask around the tile with clear bathroom sealant afterwards, however I'd rather avoid this as it will look unsightly.

Thanks.

If the brick has zero movement year round, buy a high quality exterior rated thin set mortar. And simple follow normal procedure for adhering tile to a wall. A good thin set allows for enough movement that winter, and water, shouldn't be a problem if the substrate is stable.

If you are less confident in the wall's stability then I would suggest a tile membrane and use an exterior rated thin set for both sides of the membrane. Adhere the membrane to the wall, then the tile to the membrane. The membrane will allow for 1/8 inch movement parallel to the membrane without cracking the tile.

Example Tile membrane
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Schluter-Systems-54-sq-ft-0-0008-in-Orange-Plastic-Commercial-Residential-Tile-Membrane/4717375

http://www.menards.com/main/flooring-rugs/tile-stone/tile-installation-maintenance/tile-surface-preparation/prova-mat-reg-waterproofing-membrane-54-sq-ft/p-1444438746920-c-6590.htm?tid=-2511184973115174626

For grout you have the standard choices. Cement based, Epoxy, Urethane, and Resin grout. I've used cement, epoxy, and urethane. Epoxy and urethane grouts are good for slightly volatile environments, but they do cost a lot more than cement. A high quality cement grout will probably meet your needs in most cases.

Also be aware that ceramic tile isn't waterproof. Water will seep through it and drain away. As long as it isn't being sprayed with water at -20 degrees Fahrenheit, it should survive the outdoors just fine.


Can I replace just part of a 1x6 roof deck with OSB? Redoing Roof, Roof Decking is 1x6 inch planks, and some OSB so the sheathing is mixed materials.

Is it ok to replace the lower half of the roof with 3/4 or 1/2 inch plywood and keep the top half 1x6s? I figure as long as the lower part of the roof stays lower than the top part it'd be fine, but I'd like to double check so I wouldn't have to re-do it if I am wrong.

You certainly can. I've done just that with a 1950s home I owned to patch in where the chimney came through and to replace rotted boards across an entire section. Just use spacers between the OSB sheets as is common practice to create 1/8" gaps. (Or use 16d nails as spacers with 3/4" sheathing--the sheets are sized for that.)

Also, use suitable fasteners. 8d nails are good for 1/2" material, but you might go a bit larger (10d or 12d) for 3/4" material.


Why does the pipe to my radiator get hot, but the radiator itself doesn't? I have multiple radiators in my apartment, and all except one work.  Unfortunately, it's the one in my bedroom!  Brrr!  The pipes to and from the radiator are hot to the touch, and I can hear water running through it.  However, the radiator itself is not even warm except for the one fin closest to the pipe.  Is there anything I can do to fix this?

Do you know for sure that this is a hot water system? Sometimes steam can sound like running water. If it is hot water, there is a giant air bubble in the radiator preventing it from filling. It needs to be bled off by opening the small valve near the top at one end. You will typically need some sort of tool or key for this. Slowly open the valve. Along with the air, hot water will spit out, so be careful. When there's only water coming out you're done.

If it is a steam system, there is an automatic air vent valve on one side or the other about half way up, it looks vaguely like a small bell. It's clogged up for some reason, preventing air from being vented, meaning steam cannot enter the radiator. It either needs to be unclogged or replaced.


What kind of drill bit would I use to grind down the end of a protruding screw? Let's say I have a 1"-thick piece of wood.  A 1 1/4" screw is driven through the wood, resulting in 1/4" of the screw protruding out the other side.  What type of drill bit would I use to grind that tip down just beneath the surface, leaving a dimple just the right depth to be filled in with wood putty?

I do not want to extract the screw.  I want to grind it.  It would be a wood screw, not something as brittle as a drywall screw.

Edit:  I called Home Depot and they suggested that I use my oscilating tool to cut off the tip and then use a regular drill bit to grind it beneath the surface.  This makes sense.  Should I go that route?

A protruding screw head is made of steel, so it will be moderately hard. If the screw is brass, it would be easy to grind down. You have several options.

With 1/4 inch remaining above the surface, I might first cut it down rather than grinding it all down. A piece of hacksaw blade will suffice, held in my hand flat against the surface to avoid damaging the wood. Leave a little stub that can be dealt with easily.
A grindstone bit, for use in an electric drill. This can be found in any hardware store, probably made of aluminum oxide, and possibly a 1/4 inch shank. Smaller ones for a Dremel tool will have a 1/8 inch shank, but I'd get the larger one. It will last longer, and fit in any electric drill, so no Dremel required.
You can use a high speed steel or carbide burr to do the grinding too. But aluminum oxide is harder than steel, and far cheaper than carbide.
Use a bimetal blade in an oscillating multitool. While I have found many uses for this tool, the blades are incredibly expensive and will wear out quickly when cutting steel. (There are titanium coated bimetal blades that will last longer, but they are not at all cheap, and may not fit on every model multitool. For example, no titanium blades are available for my Porter Cable tool.)
Sandpaper on a sanding block, as suggested by one answer is an option, but sanding down a 1/4 inch steel stub will take some time and probably tear the paper into shreds (as well as the sanding block.) So I would definitely shorten the stub using a hacksaw blade first. A belt sander will also do the job here, again be careful as it might tear the belt.


How can I trust a local window manufacturer? What to research or check? I'd like to support local and there's 3 companies nearby that offer custom made vinyl windows. They all seem to be >30 year old companies, which I respect a lot.

I did a ton of research it seems like 2 out of 3 of the companies build windows using a system by Quantex and/or Chelsea Building Products, but it seems like hundreds of companies build windows using this system and all of those companies use different brand names for their windows. It's very hard to research the quality of these windows. It seems that most custom window shops use premade plastic extrusions or wood profiles and just cut/assemble like a custom art framing shop does, so I'm less worried about who engineered the windows, but I am worried about the quality. Who else is buying from them if they're this uncommon? Are they white label manufacturers for other brands?

I've read that a lot of the home store windows aren't great, and I know local lumber yards can order "better" national brands, but I'm at a loss on how this industry functions and who's making what quality. There's no readily available information on alternatives to these brands, most of the docs I've found are aimed at high rise architects, not small residential.

What would you look into for the local window companies? Any reason I should or should not go with a "no name" versus a national brand?

I guess it depends what you mean by quality.  It seems like the only thing you are interested in is the frame.  You have no requirements around the glass?

I've bought windows from a small manufacturer before - they forgot to drill the weep holes.  Post drilling the weep holes look pretty rough.  One of the triple GUs had a 2' long scratch on the interior of the glass (this is the glass manufacturers fault but doesn't say much for the quality assurance on the side of the window manufacturer).

Are you doing the install or do they have a team?  I'd go out and take a look at some of their other installs and talk to customers who have their windows.  I'd also take a look at their warranties.

I also bought windows from a local company but toured their factory.  I also specified the low-e coatings.  This was a higher end window company though and their product is/was great.

I've bought windows from the box stores as well - they seem good.  Typically you buy from a window manufacturer if you are after high performance and custom sizes.  The box stores are great for pricing if your window openings are sized for there in stock sizes.

Cost effective and energy efficient kind of go against each other.  On a new build I typically go with less windows but bigger.  I find the best compromise is vinyl frame with steel reinforcement, triple pane windows with 366/180 on surface 2/5 and a 90/10 argon/air mix and a super efficient spacer.  Absolute best performance would be fiberglass frame, triple pane, 366/180 on 2/5 and a 90/10 krypton/air mixture.  3mm glass is quite thin so possibly in the future I'd opt for 4mm or thicker.  Also some 3mm is actually less than 3mm depends on the glass manufacturer.


IKEA outdoor table: recovering to the original color A few years ago, I bought a wooden outdoor table from their ÄPPLARÖ line. At the time I thought it was real wood that had been treated for outdoor use. But after my wife took a brush and water (she swears) to it, it almost looks as if paint has been brushed off.

I've contacted IKEA, but they are not providing me with a clear answer, tell me they sell paint but do not sell any other wood treatments.

I am now wondering what to do. It's a great table and I'd like to continue using it. Does anybody know the series, can confirm if its been painted or not, etc. I'd like to restore the table to ideally the original colors but alternatively to a uniform color at least.

Your comments and help are appreciated!

New photo:

That table was not painted in the sense that you think. You will notice that in both pictures you can see the wood grain. A paint would have provided a complete cover up of the grain. Instead the finish on that table was a transparent wood stain.

That line from IKEA is built with dark acacia hardwood. This wood is very hard and does not take up wood stain nearly as much as a softer or more open grained wood. If the finish was a water based stain then there is a good possibility that the brushing has simply taken off a good share of the stain on the surface of the wood. With a previous water based finish you may want to consider refinishing it with a semitransparent outdoor water based product. A high quality product (also meaning expensive as well) may be able to restore a uniform color to the table. Some stains of this type will have a manufacturer recommendation of one coat coverage but I have used them with two coat coverage (well dried between coats) and had the color hiding more than semitransparent while yet retaining the look and feel of wood.

If the original finish was an oil based stain then it may be possible to renew the surface by applying a coat of a compatible but similar product. Oil based stains do often tend to penetrate deeper into the grain of the wood than do water based products in my experience.


1" pex through 3" pvc conduit? I intend to use schedule 40 3" pvc pipe to run my pex from outside water heater, through slab, up into an interior wall.  I will have sweeping 90 ells.  Will 1" or 3/4" pex be able to make the sweeping 3" 90 degree turns without a problem?  Never used pex before and I've made my mind up about putting it in conduit - I just need to know if I need 3" or 4".

Thanks

The minimum bending radius for 1" Pex (the larger of your sizes) is listed as 9 inches. A typical 3" PVC sweep ell will have somewhere between 24 and 36" of radius. The only issue, then, is whether you can pull it. That will depend on the number of bends, number of tubes, and length of the run.


Calculating rafter size with purlin bracing How do I calculate rafter size with purlin bracing?  The total span is ~23' and the purlin bracing is ~9' from one side and ~14' from the other.  Is it calculated on total or clear span?

Edit for clarification: It is purlin bracing with a strongback, aka "under-purlin"

I'm trying to obtain a permit to extend my roof line over a room addition and porch.  The room already has a roof, but it's a 1/12 slope and prone to leaks.  This would bring it up to the ~4/12 pitch of an adjacent addition.  I live in the southern part of Zone 2.  The only frozen water we see is covered in syrup or in our drinks.  The permit office here will accept my sketchup, or even hand drawn, diagrams for a permit.  I just have to tell them what size rafter and spacing I plan to use and they will either approve or deny it.

Rough drawing. New rafters in red:

I like your drawing/sketch. Even I understand how you propose to add the "steeper" roof pitch. I even see how you plan to lap the joists at the interior "support" and fasten to the existing roof structure...nice touch.

Unless you plan on using one of those super heavy "concrete" roof tiles that weighs more than 8 lbs. per square foot, 2x8's at 24" oc or 2x6's at 16" oc. (Grade: standard and better) will support a Dead Load of 15 psf plus a Live Load of 15 psf.


How do I baby-proof open stairs? I'm trying to baby-proof my staircase, but the stairs have no risers. (See image below.)

I am in a rental, so I don't want to spend the money on cutting, staining, and nailing up plywood.  I am thinking maybe corkboard, or using my staple gun to run a long cloth material down the underside.  I usually go over the top on things like this, but we will only be in the house for two more years probably, so I am looking to go the cheap and fast route.

How about using baby gates to keep your baby off the stairs entirely?


What type of tool has hooked jaws and a threaded shaft with a T-handle? I found this tool and do not know what is called or used for.

It is a copper tube flaring tool.  There should be another part to it, a clamp that will hold different size copper pipes.
If you ever use one, make sure you put the nut on the pipe before flaring (not that I ever forgot to do that).


How to install a Wemo Three-way light switch in this configuration? I currently have this configuration in my home and I would like to replace the left switch with a wemo three-way Smart light switch. I'm not able to find any information online on how to do this with the smart switch. It works with 2 regular three-way switch.

Update: I uploaded a picture of the outlets for all to see.

Box 1 contains 3 cables entering. 14/2 Source, 14/2 Light Fixture, 14/3 going to Box 2.

Smart Switch:

Source power goes to black to Common on Switch 2
Traveler 1 on Smart Switch to Red traveler going to bass screw on Switch 2
Traveler 2 on Smart Switch to White traveler going to brass screw on Switch 2
Ground to all ground
Source Neutral to Light Fixture and Smart Switch
Source Power to Black cable going to Common on Switch 2

Box 2:

Red travler to brass screw
White traveler to brass screw
Black power to Common
Ground to Ground

Issue: If Switch 2 is "ON" then smart switch can turn the lights on and off. If Switch 2 is "OFF" then smart switch cannot turn the lights on.

You would wire up the smart 3-way switch as shown in the picture below. I am showing the connectivity and did not show the various wire nuts that will be required to connect the wires on the switch to the existing wires in the box.

You cannot install the smart 3-way switch in the box at the right because there is no neutral there.


Power Surge Damage to Refrigerator our house had several power surges last week that damaged a few of our major appliances including our indoor and outdoor refrigerators. Today, a repair person told us that our indoor fridge is leaking freon. Could that be tied to compressor damage from the surge?

It is hard to imagine a surge causing a leak .However, a surge can damage the motor and that can often require replacing the compressor. Modern refrigerators usually have some kind of electrical protection to prevent motor damage. Several years ago I had a GE that was damaged by a surge; In that case the "start" capacitor was burned out but it was outside the compressor so I could replace it for several dollars. That could be your situation.


How can I remove this bathtub drain? I have this bathtub that had a trip lever drain that kept getting stuck so the water would not drain unless you have a foot on the trip lever while you're showering (not ideal). I decided to replace it with a push down stopper. It was easy to take out the lever but the bath drain is nearly impossible. I tried everything, turning pliers into levers and giving it some torque. I went out to buy a drain remover but it just would not turn. I was wondering if anyone have any other ingenious ideas? It's not a cross hatch drain but just a horizontal bar that runs down the middle.

I never replaced a bath drain before so maybe I'm doing it all wrong so any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated.

here's a picture of it:

You need to buy something to break up the rust fusion you have going on.  WD-40 makes a variety but there are many at your local DIY center.

I would then tap around the drain.  Then get a blunt/dull metal block or chisel and hold it against the inner straps and tap on those counter-clockwise.  The tapping (with a hammer or mallet) is probably the key to breaking up the rust bond.  You can't just start cracking it hard or you could snap one of the center straps or warp the outside.


Low-cost way to bullnose & polish edge of granite tile What's a good, cheap way to polish the dull, chalky, cut edges of black granite 3x6 subway tile (approx. 10 linear feet, total). The tile is still boxed.

I have the following power tools available:

Basically every variant of power drill available, most of which are variable-speed, at least one of which is quite powerful.
A 4-1/2" 11,000rpm angle grinder
Three multitools (the kind that use triangular sanding pads).

The main thing I want to accomplish is at least semi-polishing the dull edge, but ideally, I'd also like to shave down the edge a bit so it's at least slightly bullnosed. I can live without the bullnosing if it ends up being too expensive to bother with.

I will not go out and buy yet another expensive power tool that I'll never use again. At this point, $40-50 is the absolute limit of what I'll spend before deciding to just live with exposed unpolished edges.

I have the following (South Florida) stores readily available: Home Depot, Lowes, Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Sears, Floor & Decor (a Florida tile big-box store that nevertheless seems to not sell anything related to stone-polishing), and Amazon (Prime ONLY... I can't wait for normal ground shipping).

Someone, somewhere HAS to have something cheap, like a mount that can go in a drill, or diamond grit pads for a multitool... but if any of these stores have something like that (and actually have it in stock for immediate purchase, as opposed to "online only"), I'm just not seeing it.

There are dry polishing pads made for marble and other stones:

Amazon: Dry stone polishing pad set

These are made for an angle polisher that runs around 3000-4000RPM, so one of your drills would work, but you'd need a mandril adapter that you could chuck up in the drill since the pads don't have a post for the drill.

The process is to start with the roughest pad and make several passes with each pad (remove all visible scratches from the last pad before moving up to the next one), so it's a time consuming endeavor.  It takes a little skill to keep the pad moving and buff it all evenly, but it should be too much of a challenge.

The description says that for the best results, use with water.  That could be a challenge depending on your drill setup - just don't use too much water.

And for what it's worth - I've never seen this in stock in any major retail store.  It's just too specialty of a product for them to devote shelf space to.  Most people still leave any stonework to professionals.


Dealing with nicotine stains in a Victorian property I am just in the process of buying an old property, previously lived in by heavy smokers.

What is the best way to clean and prime walls to prevent nicotine stain recurrence in a solid brick Victorian property?

I am concerned that the normally recommended primers might impair the ability of the walls to  'breathe' and cause problems with damp.

Ummm.  Primer might be the least of your concerns.  I have flipped a few houses in my life and many have had heavy smokers and/or animals.  If you remove all soft surfaces - carpet, curtains, anything that can retain the smoke smell - then you can try to prime it if the odor isn't insane.  So after everything is out let it air out a day or two or longer.

If the smell is coming from the walls then you can try to prime and paint but it might be a total waste of time and money.  I have had to redrywall the living room areas of more than a few homes.  There is a good chance the insulation is soaked with the smoke smell too so that may need to be replaced - and another reason why painting hardly ever helps the extreme cases.


What breaker configuration should I use for a 240v shed circuit? A friend wants 240 and 120 in his shed. The beaker panel is in the garage about 40 feet away. It was suggested to run 4 individual wires--two for the 240 and one for ground and one for neutral.

What breaker and/or breakers should be used and how would they be connected? I know neutral goes to the breaker bar and the same with ground and the grounding rod outside. But how do I "break off" one leg for 120 and have it properly connected to a breaker? Thanks.

Since this would be a sub-panel install, ground and neutral are NOT connected - they are isolated. There is but one bond between them per code, and that one already exists in the system that the power is coming from.

I'd tend to agree with S.P. that your prior experience is either too long ago or too unrelated to what you are doing for it to seem a great idea for you to dive into this, unless you'd care to prove me (us) wrong by actually doing some research and modifying your question. Going into it half-cocked and not actually understanding things like why there are 4 wires and the neutral (grounded) and ground (grounding) conductors are isolated seems a recipe for disaster I'd rather not encourage.


Painting a unfinished solid wood exterior door What is the recommended (assuming there is one) way to paint a new unfinished solid wood front door and jamb - What type of paint should I use, what type of brush, how should I prep, and how many coats should I do. There are some holes in the jamb so I assume I should use a wood filler and sand prior to painting. Any advice is recommended.

To do this right take the door down.remove hardware,  remove gaskets. lay door flat on saw horses, apply a  exterior oil based primer to all raw wood with a natural bristle brush 2.5-3”.Allow to dry
Rehang door and wait 24 hours.

Remove door again lay flat on saw horses. Sand the primed wood carefully smoothing the raised grain.

Dust off or blow off all  surfaces. Paint with high quality exterior 100% acrylic paint of the desired color and sheen. Use a real nice nylon brush like a Purdy 3” $20.00-$25.00

Let dry. Rehang door. Wait 24-48 hours.
Remove door. Repeat the sanding and blowing off dust. Apply second coat. Let dry. Rehang door reattach all hardware after 24-48 hours.

During each painting step be sure to coat the top and bottom of door.

After priming frame and jambs apply wood putty to any holes allow it to dry then sand. Apply caulk to any gaps after primer has dried. Allow caulk to dry before painting.

After final coat has dried for 72 hours reinstall gaskets.


How many amps does it take to power 2 AC's, a freezer, a refrigerator, 2 TV's, and a computer? I'm making my garage into a living place and I put in a 50 amp line from my house to the garage. The garage has its own fuse box but I want to have an upstairs living area and a downstairs man-cave. I want to plug in a freezer, refrigerator and a couple of AC's and of course upstairs would have a TV and a computer. Am I going to have enough amps or am I going to be blowing the fuse box often?

Look at the published ratings for each of the specific appliances you want to run simultaneously, and add them up. You'll have to do this yourself; we don't know which units you're interested in, and in fact it may affect which ones you purchase.

If the sum is more amps than the breaker will permit, the breaker or fuse will eventually blow when everything happens to make its peak demand simultaneously.


What kind of board is this, and where can I get some? I have some tongue and groove floorboards from a bathroom.

They measure 0.83" thick and are probably about 90 years old.

Where can I get some boards that are equally thick? Tongue and groove is a bonus, but mainly I care about the thickness. They will be covered so I don't care about look. I'd even be willing to layer two boards together.

A plumber who worked on it replaced them with 0.75" boards but that left a noticeable sagging area.

I don't really know how to ask for it - is there a nominal name/trade name for 0.83" boards?

If you want to match that thickness exactly, you'll have to get something custom milled, or planed down from 1" stock.

The difference between .83" and 0.75" is just over a 16th of an inch.  Probably an extra layer of tar paper would make up the difference.


Bidet sprayer install and toilet leak at supply line I bought a bidet sprayer handheld to install on one of my toilets. I followed all the steps given and it is leaking where the water supply line and T adapter connect. I tried to remove the bidet and rehook the toilet up as is and now its leaking at supply like to bottom of toilet.
I know the supply line is old but its one that can't be replace. I have tried adding a washer and plumbers tape nothing is working.

Probably what happened is the black plastic nut on the supply line cracked. It looks pretty old and might have been over-tightened when you hooked it up to the bidet. You said the supply line can't be replaced - but it can. The supply line looks like pex and runs straight out of the wall. Is there a shutoff for it? Or did you have to turn off the water at the main?
I don't know how handy you are but if it's pex or something similar and there's no shutoff you should install one at the wall. You can get a 1/4 turn shutoff with a pex connection at a home center store. Purchase a new flexible supply line for a toilet so it will have the correct size fitting to attach to either the tank or the bidet.


Why is all the plumbing draining slowly in my old farmhouse? I have just purchased an old farm house that has a septic tank.  The tub drains slowly and the toilet will not flush toilet paper or waste.  The toilet will flush if you pour about a quart of water in the bowl as it's going down; then it will empty out.

I would locate the septic tank, have it pumped out, then call a plumber with a snake and camera to check out the piping from the toilet to the septic tank. In my area a septic system is subjected to a rigorous test to see if it works properly. If not, it has to be fixed before the sale or can be sold with an "as is" sales agreement with the prospective buyer.


What is "mud-jacked", and why is it not done in the UK? I have seen of few questions/answers about "mud-jacked", but I have never come across it in the uk.

Mudjacking is the process of pumping a water, dirt and cement mixture
  under a concrete slab in order to lift it.

Source