Toilet water valve tightened to OFF position but water keeps filling up tank Last night at about 1am, I heard running water that sounded similar to a washing machine filling up with water.  I ran into my bathroom and saw water overflowing from the toilet tank (not bowl).  I immediately shut off the water valve behind the toilet and took off the toilet lid.  The fill valve had completely broken off at the base!  I flushed the toilet to try to empty the tank, but the water was still coming up to the tank even though the stop valve was turned off; I could also still hear water loudly flowing through to the tank. The only way I could get the water to stop was to turn off the main cold water valve to the entire condo.

I have not done much toilet repair at all, but am
I correct in thinking that the issue here is the stop valve?  I initially thought it was a surge in water pressure, but now I am wondering if something simply failed in the valve, which caused the surge in pressure which broke off the full valve?  The fact that I can't fully turn off water to the tank by using the stop valve alone seems to be an indication of the main problem.

Another possibly unrelated problem (or maybe related??) is when I turn off the main cold water to the condo, my shower hot water trickles out.  A friend told me it could be a mixing valve issue, but up until today, we haven't had much problem with hot/warm water in our shower.  Others in my building have had mixing valve issues.

I am in a condo that is about 10 years old so I know I am going to have to start replacing things!  Just would like to know what and to see if I can do it myself.

It's fairly common for gate valves to fail, causing them to not open or close properly. In this case you can either repair them (most of the time), or replace them. If you're replacing them, I'd recommend installing a ball valve instead.

I'm not sure what could have caused the fill valve in the toilet to break off. Without a photo or two of the broken valve, it's difficult to even speculate what could have caused it.

As for the trickling hot water... It's not clear if you mean it always trickles out, or trickles out when you open the hot water valve.  If you mean that it trickles out when a hot valve is open, that's completely normal.  If the main water supply is turned off, there's no pressure to push the hot water out of the tank. Remember, the hot water tank is supplied by the cold water supply line.

Without being able to come on site and investigate, it's difficult to say for sure what's going on. Obviously, you'll want to replace the broken fill valve. You'll also want to repair, or replace the shutoff valve for the toilet. If you don't have the tools or knowledge to do so, you might want to have these things handled by a plumber.

You also might want to investigate whether or not there's a pressure regulator installed on the main water supply line. If there's not, you might want to consider installing one. If there is, you'll want to make sure that it's set, and working properly.


Why would a microwave make sounds like this? Can anybody tell me why this microwave makes sound like it is going to transform into Optimus Prime?

Can someone diagnose the problem only by the sound in this YouTube Video, or maybe I have to do some more measurements?

Not sure if it is heating, worried to leave it ON for too long

[edit]
Burnt mica plate

That's a plasma arc sound.
Clean the interior of the oven thoroughly
Remove the cardboard, paper or mica cover over the hole that the microwaves pass into the oven, and clean in there too. Clean that little cover itself.
Turn the over on and look for light sources inside, other than the lightbulb. Those are likely balls of glowing plasma. Clean around them til the sound and light goes away.
If you can't find the source, it's best to buy a new oven. You're not getting the wattage the oven is rated for anymore, and balls of microwave plasma are capable of melting steel.

A good, thorough cleaning can often fix this problem.


Prep for painting an old, interior, coquina rock fireplace wall? I have an INTERIOR coquina rock fireplace wall that I hate, hate, hate. Background information: Coquina rock is a very porous rock made of lots of little seashells compressed together and is found in Florida.  It is extremely porous (think lava rock). I've decided to try to paint it and expect to use a several coats of bonding primer before I paint.  The "mortar" or concrete, or whatever the buffoons (who thought this would be really cool back in the eighties) used to construct this is often non-existant on the face of the rock wall.  It appears as if they wanted it to look like the rocks were free stacked as no mortar is present over much of the wall and this leaves really deep holes between the rocks in most places.  None of the rocks are loose.  It is just a really ugly brown rock wall and the surface is alarmingly uneven with some rocks jutting out maybe 4" farther than others. So now my question/s: What to do about the cracks?  Most cracks and holes are too large to caulk; some are too small. Would you attempt to mortar all of the cracks before painting? What kind of mortar? Since all of the cracks are irregular, normal tuck and point is just silly, isn't it?

So I jumped on YouTube to refresh my memory on dealing with this.

For a while people were just demo-ing them altogether.

You seem to implying an intent to fill and cover the entire surface for a smooth effect. Those projects tend to use preblended colored mortar (just add water), and they trowel it into all the cracks and holes.

The newer thing I found was people chiseling down and whitewashing (with a sprayer) the stone. Because of the application it covers all the surfaces for a very uniform updated look.

I would definitely send you to YouTube for more ideas if nothing else.
Search "Fireplace Makeover"


How to upgrade old sewer drain? I have a 4" cast iron sewer pipe in a concrete floor basement dating to 1910.

I can't figure out how it is configured. Here is what is visible:

The connection to the house drains is cast iron pipe about 5' long that slopes down into the concrete of the basement. It connects up to a vertical cleanout which might be part of a U or P-shaped trap, but if so it is buried in concrete below and not visible. Then nearby in the well is sloping cleanout. I cannot figure out how these might be connected because they are are at different angles.

The cast iron is 100 years old and probably should be replaced with new pipe, but I am not sure how to configure the new pipe. Should I just start jack hammering the concrete away to expose all the existing pipe so I can see where it goes?

Before resorting to demo you might hire a plumber to use a drain camera to scope upstream and downstream of the vertical cleanout, it might cost $60 - $100 but would be money well spent if it saves you some jack hammering and digging.

There are some pretty effective and long lasting methods of rehabilitating old sewer pipe by "shooting" a new internal pipe lining, the liners will even bridge cracks and small breaks. It involves high-pressure hydroblasting to clean the I.D., and opening up the line for access, but maybe that could be done from the exposed portion above the floor and 16" deep well. It may be a good alternative to extensive concrete demo and excavation.


Hardware for measuring and source locating a vibration noise in an apartment I have moved into an apartment, 4th floor, and I can hear a very annoying deep humming noise, I can even feel the floor vibrating sometimes. I am guessing the deep humming noise comes from the vibration resonating in the building walls. It is interfering with my sleep.
I am determined to find the source of the vibration and I am looking for advice.
First, I do not know if it comes from the same appartment or from outside. Most of the triangulating to find the source I have read are example of houses, not apartments, and they triangulate the source in an open environment, so my first doubt is how hard will it be to triangulate the source of the vibration inside the apartment? I am guessing there will be a lot of rebounds, and the vibration should come through the main columns or maybe even pipes. Is it realistic to find the origin of vibration inside the apartment, for example as coming from a column? What kind of hardware do I need? Will a couple of mics do or do I need something more specialized?
I am pretty sure I can handle the software part of analizing the signal for isolating the noise and triangulating, at least to have a good start, as I expect to have trouble triangulating the signal inside the building. But I do not know what kind of hardware it would be better to purchase to get the signal into my computer for analyzing. Someone in this same forum said he was able to locate the origin of some vibration by using two measurement Behringer microphones (annoying vibration, deep humming noise in home the answer by Whariwharangi). So I am thinking on purchasing a couple of these https://www.behringer.com/product.html?modelCode=P0118 and connect them to the computer using this interface https://www.behringer.com/product.html?modelCode=P0BJZ . I know there are better measurment microphones, but they quickly become expensive, above 1000usd a piece. I am open to suggestions for the hardware, even considering using other sensors instead of mics, from people with more experience.
Basically, I am looking for advice on how to find the source of the vibration noise. My main doubts are about using sound triangulation to locate the source inside the apartment and what hardware do I need, but also appreciate any advice on anything else that might help.

There are accelerometers that can be used for vibration analysts.
There are inexpensive ones for under 8$ for micro controller projects like arduous they do work well.
Or you can spend more and get a premade usb device to measure the vibration.
I know in the past we had vibrations that showed up at a harmonic in the floor from motor driven pumps change the rubber pads and the vibration moved.
Since you sound like you like the data analysis the microcontroller project might be just what you want.


Is it safe to assume a wall is not load bearing if the studs are on 24” centers? I am looking at remodel options in a 2003 built townhome.
In considering which walls may be load bearing is it safe to say that when walls are interior and have studs in 24” centers they are not load bearing?
Or is 24” spacing code compliant with both load bearing and non load bearing walls?

Nope...2x4 studs at 24” on center can support roof plus ceiling up to 10’ height.  2x6 studs at 24” on center can support one floor plus roof plus ceiling up to 10’ height without analysis. (See ICC Table R602.3(5).)
Without analysis means an architect or structural engineer could provide calculations to prove that they could be further apart, support more load, or be taller than specified in the Table.


In a pex household, would it reduce corosion to bond metal plumbing fixtures to my water heater's anode? A water heater's sacrificial anode needs to be electrically bonded to the tank to function.  This is accomplished via continuity through the threads by which it is secured.

Knowing this, am I 'missing out' on some protection the anode could give me if my house' plumbing is all pex?

I suppose I shouldn't worry about appliances as their electrical service ground connection and that of my water heater would provide continuity.

Would corrosion be less likely to occur in my metal faucets if they were also bonded to the anode?

If so, is the difference likely minuscule?  Or might it be worth a couple feet of thin wire under the counter to go from the ground screw of a nearby outlet to the underside of an expensive faucet?

Metal water pipe isn't grounded to minimize corrosion, it's grounded to protect people in case something goes horribly wrong and the pipe gets energized.  With PEX, the pipe is an insulator, so grounding is both effectively impossible and not beneficial.

If you were to ground any water pipe or fixtures, you would tie them to the house ground, not the water heater anode.


how to connect C wire to Weil-McLain EG-65 Series-5 gas steam boiler Which of the Weil-McLain EG-65 transformer terminal should I use for a thermostat common wire? (I am trying to connect a nest learning thermostat to that boiler and it needs a common wire). Thanks.

According to the control wiring supplement for your boiler, there should be a C terminal on the transformer, adjacent to the R terminal.  Look for the terminal on the transformer with the green wires going to it.


How to fix leaking PVC fitting? I screwed up. I'm usually pretty good with PVC. I used the approved cleaner and primer, and Weld-On 705. I've done this dozens of times.

But here's where I screwed up: one part was a threaded bushing: 1" glue to ½" NPT. I made the mistake of turning in a petcock before the glue cured (nominal 20 minutes).

All the other ~20 glued joints are fine under pressure, but this one bushing is slowly dripping from two or three spots.

I really don't want to re-do the entire assembly, which is what it will take to replace this one bushing.

My spouse suggested a hose clamp. I thought of using a hypodermic needle to squirt some additional 705 around the spot where the bushing meets the "T" fitting. Either of these have merit? Any other ideas?

The hose clamp is right out.  All you'll do is crack something -- if you're lucky, right away.

Likewise trying to inject PVC cement (705) is not a good idea.  Even if you manage to plug the leaks, the majority of the joint is compromised.   It will eventually fail, and the law practically says it will fail 2 hours after you've left for a 2 week vacation, etc. (^_^)

PVC is super easy to repair or replace, and hacksaws are cheap too.  If it's a particularly difficult section of pipe, consider installing one or two unions, to make the repair easier.

Go ahead and rebuild that section properly.


What kind of radiator is this and can it take TRV I live in a brownstone built in 1900 converted to separate apartments in early 1970’s (I think).  We have a single pipe steam heat system and recently replaced the boiler.

My unit is one that’s ridiculously hot and I’ve been trying to figure out how I can adapt my radiator setup to be able to adjust that.

However I don’t know what sort of radiator this is and unlike standard ones I’m familiar with where the air valve can be replaced with a TRV (plus an air valve) I’m not sure the same thing can be done with this one.

The dimensions of its metal outer container are 56”x22”x8” and here is what the inside looks like:

Right half

Incoming pipe and on/off valve

Left half and air valve. This side is elevated relative to right side (to allow condensation to drain?).

Given the size of this, if it’s ancient maybe I’d consider something smaller that will bake my space less and be adjustable, but if I can install an adjustable valve on this thing as is even that would be an improvement but my understanding is that sensor isn’t supposed to be inside the covered unit to properly read temperature.

Any advance or words of wisdom about what I’ve got here would be appreciated.

You would remove  the existing vent and add 1/8" pipe up and elbow horizontal. Install the valve as you would a normal cast iron radiator and use a remote mount thermostat device. The heating device you are showing is a convector. You can go to "supplyhouse.com or call 1-888-757-4774" or just "GOOGLE" Dan Foss 1 pipe steam thermostatic radiator valves. Danfoss valve SKU 013G0140, Danfoss thermostat SKU 013G8562 or similar


Can drywall cover a 30" span on the ceiling? These rafters span 30". Do you think I can hang 1/2" over this span or should I go 5/8"

Or go extreme and run 2x4's perpendicular, 24" OC?

Opinion - you're nuts to bury those nice exposed beams. But, no accounting for taste.

5/8" might span it, though you'll end up with a lot of 6" scraps due to 90 rather than 96" spacing. 1/2" not a chance - it will sag badly.

If you strap it, you only need 1x3, and you don't (IMHO) want it 24" apart which is already a marginal spacing on ceilings - put it 16" or even 12" apart. Actually, if you can find steel resilient channel (AKA furring channel or hat channel or U-channel), that might work just as well and be a lot straighter than the average wood 1x3 or 2x4 you can get these days.

Might as well insulate up there if you are burying the beams.


Even when I turn off the manual valve to back yard sprinkler system few sprikler heads are showing small valter flow? Even when I turn off the manual valve to back yard sprinkler system few sprinkler heads are showing small water flow.

Why is this?

If the manual shutoff is a gate valve, sediment builds up inside and keeps the wedge shaped gate from bottoming in its slot. A slight leakage is normal in these type valves. Remove the top, use a piece of aluminum bar (soft metal) to disturb the sediment and flush it out. Reassemble. It should leak less now that the gate wedges against the seats instead of bottoming out.

Globe type shutoff valves have a rubber/plastic washer that contacts a seat inside the valve. This type shuts off completely when closed unless the rubber washer or the seat have been damaged. Remove the top, feel around for damage on the seat and inspect the washer for cracking. Replace as necessary.

Quarter turn ball valves usually don't have issues with leakage unless there's been some frost damage that's disrupted the valve internally. Replace the valve.

If you're using the manual function on rubber diaphragm control valves for the shutoff, any number of things have gone wrong, dirt, diaphragm damage. Dismantle and rebuild after obtaining a repair kit.


Need to repaint my exterior, a couple of question with painting My exterior need a re-painting, I have got a couple of question here:

How do I find a paint that matches my exterior? Using naked eye is bit unreliable.
Do I need to scratch the old paint off before re-applying new one?

If your goal is to touch up sections without a whole house painting...

In an inconspicuous area, use a razor blade and skim off a small section.  Take it to Home Depot and let them use their paint matching machine. Then have them mix an exterior paint for you.

I did this for an interior wall once and I could never tell the difference after it dried.

I would scrap and prime the bubbled portions of the wall.

My 2 cents


What is a good plan for building cube bookcases with basic tools? I don't have a table saw or a router or anything like that.  I do have a circular saw, and a drill.  I could probably justify buying a tool like a Kreg Jig or something like that for this project.

Congratulations on building your own book case. Here are a few tips.

Get a good large framing square. This tool will help you scribe square guide lines and also can be used as a guide for your circular saw to cut nice straight and square pieces of wood.

Use tiny head, counter sunk finish screws and wood glue to secure the pieces.

Make the bottom and top horizontal pieces full width. Fit the vertical upright pieces between them. Fit the shelves between the upright pieces.

Carefully measure and scribe the bottom edge location of your horizontal shelves on the vertical uprights.

Clamp a straight guide to these lines to help align the shelves to your lines before securing them to the sides.

Drill and countersink pilot holes for your screws so you won't split your wood.

Use glue on all joints.

Install a back or at least small 90 degree triangle pieces of wood or thin plywood on the back four or any parameter corners to assure your case doesn't rack or lean sideways when loaded.

Measure twice or three times, then cut once!!!

Fill your screw holes with lightweight spackle, sand smooth, prime, paint and enjoy.

Good luck


Flipped off main breaker for repair, unrelated circuit will not come back on Switched off main to attach ground wire to two outlets in garage (one normal, one GFCI), now separate circuit to attic (feeding one overhead switchable light, one receptacle, doorbell, and AIR HANDLER) will not power up.  Breaker is on (not tripped).  I have switched off each individual breaker in box, then main off and on, then each individual back on, still nothing.  I have tested breaker at panel, each side of 220v breaker reads 120V when breaker is on, 0v when breaker is flipped off.  Conduit run into attic (before branching to switchable light, receptacle, and air handler) is not hot, with breaker in ON position. Have not tested for continuity yet.  Suggestions?

"B" in photo is breaker/circuit in question

There seems to be some confusion as to the issue I am now having.  The initial problem was a shock coming from an ungrounded, non-GFCI outlet in the garage, to which the amp was plugged in.  THAT receptacle was downline of a GFCI receptacle, which also had no ground wire attached.  I shut off the main, attached ground wires (that were already present in the outlet boxes), and now there are no issues in the garage.  Amp/guitar no longer shocks. When I turned the main back on, that is when I had a new problem in the attic, a different location in the house (with one receptacle, one overhead light on a switch, and the HVAC air handler), which does not include the receptacles in the garage, which are currently operational. Tonight I will test every receptacle in the house, and report back.  As for the breaker/amp issue, @Harper I can just switch the main off and replace the 30a breaker with a 20a, and the light, receptacle, and air handler will function properly, assuming there are no other issues?

Conduit run into attic is not hot - how are you verifying that? Try an NCV to see if it's a lost neutral. I'd be looking at the neutral bar, because unless you flipping the giant breaker caused the connection to fail at the load center, wherever you did new work isn't as separate a circuit as you thought. Put it all back to the way it was to help isolate the problem.

I suspect you lost the neutral when you ad-hocked some GFCIs.

each side of 220v breaker reads 120V - it's not the breaker.

Losing both sides of a MWBC at the same time would be highly unusual if the breaker works. Trace the neutral.

You dropped the main... Check for any other GFCIs in the entire house that aren't reset. Especially one that might be hidden somewhere and is just two buttons (no outlet).


Magnetic Mortise Latch for American Style Doors I am looking to make the door handles for my kids' rooms quieter. Today I went through and oiled everything, but the latch / mortise assembly (??correct term?) that I have in my doors are still pretty noisy. I went in search or something that would be quieter.
Early in my search I found this Tubular Mortise Silent Magnetic Internal Door Latch, but it didn't look like the kind of latch I have on my doors. So I tried searching, and everything seems to be for Europe and nothing looks like an American style latch/bolt.
Whenever I searched specifically for American or US style, all I got was electromagnetic security doors (card reader type releases) or things for cabinets.
Do they not make these in American style doors or am I just not using the right search terms? While it seems the point is to remove the strike plate, I would like to keep it since its notched into my door frame already. I would like the bolt to just be hidden away and then magnetic engage when the door is closed, mechanically pull away when the handle is pushed down.
The hope is that this would allow quieter exits from kids rooms at night. I don't need a specific brand/product recommendation, just the right terms to find this if they make them as replacements for typical USA style latches. I have a door handle similar to this one if that helps.

When closing the door -- turn the knob to retract the latch tongue, pull the door quietly shut and hold it there, then turn the knob back to quietly let the latch tongue into the strike plate.
With a little practice you can do this absolutely silently.
When your children are older they will learn to do this when they want to sneak out.


Can I use just one hot and neutral screw for a receptacle? I am replacing a receptacle (15A) and it has three hot and 3 neutral wires. Previously two backstab plus one screw were used on each side. I won't be using the backstabs on the replacement receptacle.

My question is: Do I have to use all four hot and neutral screws or can I simply pigtail all three hot and connect to a single hot screw? I'd do the same for the neutral side.

In this configuration I'd have only three leads going to the receptacle (including ground) instead of 7.

Use pigtailing here -- the Code doesn't charge for pigtails in the Article 314 box fill accounting.  However, by Article 314, your box is already overflowing -- so put an extension ring/box on it while you are at it.  (You need to get the box's rated volume up to 18 in^3 to fit everything in, or 20 in^3 with internal clamps)


Shut down gas for heat boiler but did not shut down electricity new to this house, didn't see the shut off switch when i shut down boiler two months ago.  now i have found what looks like shut off switch, have I done any damage to the unit?

If you just shut off the gas without shutting off the electrical, it shouldn't damage the system.  Basically the thermostat(s) will continue to call for heat, the boiler will try to fire up and fail, then the boiler should give up and enter lockout. The boiler has safeguards built in to handle a lack of gas, which should prevent damage to the system.


Connecting a pump to wall socket using a transformer I'd like to connect following components:

From the wall socket
.. to a cable
.. to a pressure switch
.. to a transformer
Use the outer wires on the transformer to get 24V (2x12V) to the pump

Question is, how? I've no idea how to actually connect these components. I'm a complete and utter noob and I've no experience whatsoever with these things.

I've made a picture of the components.

First off, the cable is unearthed (should it be?) but there are only two connects (in/out) to the pressure switch, where should the earthed wire go?

Two wires to the in/out on the pressure switch to the transformer - does it matter which one?

From the transformer to the pump, should I put those blue wires together in the same place? Does it matter which ones I connect to what on the pump (+ / -).

I'd appreciate some help!

P.S I dont want to get fried.

Edit: I need 10 reps to post more than 2 links.
Link to the transformer: http://www.electrokit.com/en/transformer-48va-2x12v-2a.45714

Edit: Info on the pressure switch

You're nearly there!

Note: European wire colours used here.

Find a suitable enclosure for the transformer, switch and a fuse.
Connect the live wire (brown) to the fuse, the fuse to the switch and the switch to one of the 230 V red wires on the transformer primary.
Connect the neutral (blue) wire to the red of the transformer primary.
Connect the pump to the two outer blue wires on the transformer.
Connect the earth / ground wire to the black centre-tap of the transformer.

The result will be a 24 V supply to the pump with what is known as a centre-tap ground. This limits the voltages at the pump to 12 V with respect to ground while still applying 24 V to the motor.

A 500 mA fuse would be adequate protection for the setup.
Water-proof everything and, if possible, keep the control box remote from any water.

If the pressure switch is exposed or difficult to insulate you may further improve safety by putting the pressure switch in the low-voltage side. This has the disadvantage that the transformer will be always on and wasting a little energy when the pump is not running. (The pressure switch link in your question links to the transformer. Check that it is rated for at least 2 A.)

Version 1 wiring. Note that switch is on mains voltage side of transformer.

Version 2 wiring. Note switch is wired on low-voltage side. Wire switch internally with left cable in nearest terminals to cable entry as shown in the instruction leaflet. Note that there is no switch on the transformer mains side. Unplug when not in use.


How do I replace a 3 wire switch with a 4 wire motion detection switch? I added two images showing knob and tube wired light fixture and two wire light switch. Romex out of fixture goes to switch.

Original message: I have one hot (black), one neutral (white) and a copper ground wire attached to a light switch that I am replacing. My new motion detection switch has 4 wires, a ground, a neutral, a hot and a load wire.  How do I connect the new switch?

Actually, you very likely do NOT have a black hot and a white neutral. A simple (not smart, not dimmer, not motion, not 3-way, etc.) switch will have a hot and a switched hot. So the white you see is not neutral.

The 4 wires you need are ground (all grounds go together, everything has a ground, so we'll ignore that for now), neutral (the problem), hot and load. Load is also referred to as switched hot.

There are two possible configurations of your current switch & light:

Hot into box, switched hot to light

In this case, you would typically have two  cables coming into the box. One would have black hot and white neutral, with black going to the switch and white connected to the white of the other cable. The second cable would have black switched hot and white neutral, with the black switched hot connected to the switch.

Switch loop - something like this:

Power goes to the light first. At the light, white is neutral and connects to the light. Black is hot and connects to another cable (which also connects switched hot to the other side of the light. The end result is that the black/white cable you have at the switch does not contain neutral.

From your description, I suspect you have the second configuration, and you need to add a wire to get neutral at the switch. The problem is you can't simply "run another wire" - all wires need to be together in conduit (unlikely since if you had conduit then the switched hot should not have been white) or together in a cable, which would require a 3-wire cable instead of a 2-wire cable (ground isn't counted in that numbering scheme).

Current code requires neutral to be included in switch boxes, but that is a relatively recent change so it is quite common to find switch boxes without an accessible neutral.

Neutrals must match their hots - you can't pull another neutral from a different light (or even worse, a different circuit). You also can't reuse ground as neutral (that would technically work but be a significant code violation).


How to repair water damage on a wall We are trying to repair the water damage on a wall and we cleaned it up pretty good and sealed the exterior to prevent water from re-entering.

My question is: What should we use to fill the gap in between the window and the wall?

The space between the window and wall I'd just stuff with some fiberglass insulation. I wouldn't be using the expanding foam because it might put a strain on the window and impede operation. Then straighten out that drywall edge and add a new piece down to the window and tape with mud. If the space is small enough, cover with some trim or molding. The latter will look weird if the other windows don't have the same molding.


Remove Paint from outdoor metal sill of Main Door So I guess when the door was painted 10 years ago, paint might of spilled on the metal sill? I'm not sure if that is the correct word for it. But I've taken a picture of it for reference.

I've attempted to use paint thinner to remove the paint, but it doesn't come off.

Anyone have suggestions? Is there a specific way i'm supposed to use paint thinner? I just put some on a rag and scrubbed as hard as I could.

if this is an anodized aluminum sill (thats what it looks like), try using brake fluid.  it will destroy just about any paint bond out there.  just wipe up afterwards and degrease with a good quality degreaser.

be wary though, if its anything else other that anodized aluminum (or an other uncoated metal), the brake fluid will destroy the coating (even powdercoating will be toast)

if its vinyl, try cleaning it up with paint thinner and a toothbrush.  it may take some time but it usually works.  oven cleaners with sodium hydroxide in them also do a good job without damaging the vinyl.


Which thinset to connect USG Durock® Brand Cement Board with EdgeGuard? I am about to install USG Durock® Brand Cement Board with EdgeGuard onto my bathroom frame where the toilet is (I'm using HardieBacker for the shower FYI). This is new construction. According to USG's directions, I need to use a "latex-fortified mortar" to fill the joints between boards.
I'm looking all over Google and the Home Depot website. I see a product called Thinset Mortar Admix, which can be mixed with PremiumPlus, MasterBlend or CustomBlend thin-set mortars. They say to use that latex additive instead of water when mixing.
However, I already have purchased Porcelain Tile White 50 lb. Fortified Thinset Mortar (Custom Building Products) from Home Depot.
Question:
Since the above porcelain thinset is described as "fortified," is that as good as using regular thin-set mortar with a latex additive mixed in? Or should I return the porcelain thin-set mortar, and buy the cheaper normal thin-set mortar and use (instead of water) the latex additive when mixing it?

The cement board instructions are for a wet area.   Since there is no need to waterproof behind a toilet you should not be worrying about this.
I would buy cement board tape and stick it across cover both boards.   As you trowel the mortar for your tiles feel free to push as much into the mesh that it can hold.   That is your install.
If you try to set your seams first and you let them dry inevitably you will have a ridge.   That ridge can cause a lot of depth issues when applying mortar to the wall and tile (backbuttering).   I advise not cover your seams in non-wet areas and apply the mortar in one go.


New house, new LG refrigerator & AFCI wiring We just bought a house, May 2019, the first week the AFCI breakers began to trip. Outlets & switches both. The biggest concern is our new LG refrigerator. It trips about once a week, sometimes even more.  Called the city inspector who said AFCI was now code. Ok, so how do we fix this tripping problem? With the lights it’s not that big a problem but the refrigerator is another story. We can’t go away even for a few days cause the fridge will probably go out. I put a corded light on top of the fridge, plugged into the same outlet as fridge, 15 amp service AFCI, when that light goes out I know it’s time to go down into the basement to reset the breaker, dedicated also. So what is the answer? The electrician who wired the house refuses to come back to change or check his work. The neighbor said his paper shredder tripped a fault. A clicker switch to turn lights on & off from a chair tripped the AFCI breaker. It can be anything. If the NEC is going to make these changes, why not put the breaker on the first floor? But my original question is, why is the refrigerator tripping every 3/6 days, randomly.

This is a serious case of "dueling safety systems".  Normally a $100,000 Cat engine has all sorts of safety shutoffs e.g. For low oil level.  But this one is a fire pump, protecting a $100 million warehouse. Saving the warehouse is more important than saving the engine, so it doesn't get those shutoffs.

Same applies to Radon vent pumps, smoke detector circuits etc.  And with the fridge.  It has one job, protecting your food safety.  It is a safety system and shouldn't be disconnected.

You just need to find a pretense in Code to allow that.

  NEC 110.3(B). Equipment must be installed and used according to its labeling and instructions.

Read the instructions for your refrigerator.  If it says "Do not put on an AFCI breaker" then remove the AFCI breaker and change it for a plain one.

Otherwise contact the manufacturer and ask them and get them to say "do not put on an AFCI breaker".


Junction box down-sizing when using oversized conduit I'm running 4 x 4AWG copper wires through 1-1/4"conduit. I have 6 elbows in the 125' run so I need to insert a junction box before the last two elbows. It will be a straight pull through the junction box. By code, I could have used 1" conduit (~38% fill) but chose to go up a size to 1-1/4" (resulting in ~22% fill). 314.28(A)(1) states that the junction box must be 8 times the size of the conduit for straight pulls, or 10" in this case. However, if I am interpreting 314.28(A)(3) correctly, I can use a smaller junction box if I am less than the maximum conduit fill (which I am). Since, I could have used 1" conduit does this imply that I could use an 8" junction box even though I used 1-1/4" conduit?

Don't worry about it. Just use the standard C-type conduit body, which is designed to exclusively be an access point for pulling in a straightline section.   That is literally its one purpose, so obviously, UL wouldn't list it if it couldn't comply with Code.  As far as your frustration finding the right thing, the caliber of your work is beyond the local big-box store (which, ironically, doesn't do well stocking big boxes) -- you need the real electrical supply.

You can use C-type conduit bodies anywhere they will remain accessible.   However, the better plan, generally, is to use LB, LL or LR conduit bodies as access points instead.  That lets you kill 2 birds with one stone: it eliminates one of your four allowed 90 bends while also creating an access point.  However, when you do this, you must use the access point to pull - you are not allowed to drag wires around conduit body corners even if that is feasible.  They're not made for it and will damage the insulation.  The only corners you can drag around are sweeps that have typically a 6-12" radius.

Also, the first rule of conduit is that the conduit route must be finished before you start pulling wire through it.  That's not a Harper Rule, that's actual Code.  I mention that because it sounds like you are building the conduit over top of the wires. That's not allowed. It's too easy to leave a conduit route that is unpullable.

Once somebody used one of these to go around an inside corner - the cover was facing the wall and could not be removed. Can't do that! And obeying the "pull the wire after construction is complete" rule takes care of that!


How can I unscrew my outdoor hose that is fused to the spigot? I don't know my own strength. It seems either my spigot or hose is stripped or they are fused together from corrosion. How can I unscrew the hose from the spigot?

Connectors left in place for long periods can get fairly well glued together by corrosion or mineral deposits. A pipe wrench should do the job. FYI pipe wrenches have angled jaws, to loosen you want the jaw facing left when you use it, that way it wedges on rather than slipping off. If you want to avoid marring the fitting try a bit of rubber between the wrench and the fitting. Most folks have a rubber washing up glove that will work.


Reinforce aluminum pipe attached to wood posts in fence I recently installed a fence where the posts are 4" x4" pressure-treated wood with an aluminum pipe rail, similar to this: fence

and this, but without the wood rail: fence with wood rail

I use a member's suggestion and used PVC end caps. The pvc end caps are snug, but they can come off. The same thing with the aluminum pipe inserted in the pvc end cap.

Essentially, the aluminum pipe isn't doing anything to add strength to the fence, and I would like to change that.

Is there any adhesive that I can use to secure each end of the aluminum pipe to the pvc end cap, and the pvc cap to the wood post? Thanks

Or if anyone has any other suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated.

Epoxy would be your best all-round bet for this type of application. It bonds reasonably well to clean PVC as well as to aluminum. It bonds extremely well to wood.

I'd have recommendations for a specific type of epoxy, but just about anything will work in your project.

The strength comes from clean surfaces. Use a light sandpaper on the aluminum, perhaps clean the PVC with acetone, even a bit of sandpaper on the wood is a good idea, blowing out the sawdust. The sanding of the aluminum provides a bit of a grip area along with getting a clean bond.

Epoxy does not require clamping for good results. Excessive clamping forces out the epoxy reducing the bond, but you would not have an easy job clamping your project as described.


How can I build up the hardibacker if it doesn't come flush with the tub So I have put hardibacker on the walls around the tub and on one of the three walls the wall is not flush with the tub flange (See pic below).  Not sure how to make the wall a bit thicker to go over the tub.

If possible I would take down the hardibacker and furr out the studs the 1/4" or so. Even with tile over it the possibility of water getting behind the tub is high and it defeats the purpose of the flange.


New house generator AC breaker tripping I have been in our new house less than 1 year. Yesterday we had a a prolong power outage so I decided to test the generator I got for hurricane season to the house existing generator inlet. I turned off main line breaker engaged interlock to isolate back feed breaker.
I turned generator while generator breaker and all other breakers are off I connected the 240/120 50 AMP cord to the outside inlet all good. I turn on AC breaker on generator all good. When I get the to house main panel and attempt to turn on the panels back feed 50 AMP breaker the AC breaker on the generator trips off.
House has the following:

Duromax XP10000EH with floating neutral system connected with Generator Power Cord to 240/120 (I don't know what prior owner had)

Reliance PB50 Inlet box wired through 4 wires (Red, White, Green, Black) Green connects to Inlet bolt.
Reliance MB125 Indoor 50-Amp Meter Box into (4 wires from inlet red, black, white and copper). White and copper connect to neutral bus on panel, red and black connect to Q-Line Breaker.
Main panel with Interlock with GE 50 AMP - Q-Line 50 Amp 1 in. Double-Pole Circuit Breaker (thin).

Any ideas? At first I thought it was the generator but this generator has a floating neutral. I am not sure if there is a fault somewhere or the breaker may not be appropriate for the generator.
Panel:

Inlet:

Inlet wiring:

Generator Cord:

MB125:

Generator cord:

Panel with back feed breaker removed:

Found it!  It’s the breaker.
It’s in the wrong place, because somebody really worked to defeat the keying meant to force it into the right place.
This is going to take a little explaining, though.
Note your interlocked breaker.  Normal 2-pole breakers are two complete breaker spaces wide.  Each row of spaces has the opposite pole of power in it, so being 2 spaces wide means it is able to grab both poles, for 240V.
Read more about spaces, poles, and double-stuffs here - but GE’s double-stuffs are special and that article doesn’t fully apply.
Q-line does a fairly unique trick
Your GE Q-line breaker is 1” wide.  At first glance, it looks like a duplex, but it’s not.  GE uses a totally unique scheme (well, shared with Crouse-Hinds and FPE) where they don’t force you to get balky quadplex breakers, they sell actual half-width breakers.  The 1-pole breakers are 1/2” wide and occupy half a space.
Their 2-pole breakers (i.e. yours) are particularly special: They ‘straddle the line’ between two spaces: So half the breaker is in space 1, and half the breaker is in space 2.  That lets them grab both poles.  That also leaves an empty half-space above and below them, which you’re supposed to fill with 1-pole 1/2” (1/2-space) breakers.

Or, if you prefer, you can have another 2-pole breaker immediately below the first 2-pole, grabbing the bottom half of space 2 and the top half of space 3. Rinse wash repeat, as tall a stack as you please.  You finish the stack with a 1/2-space 1-pole breaker.

This means that GE 2-pole breakers must straddle two spaces.  It can never occupy a whole space, since then, it could only access one pole.  And in fact, the breakers and buses are keyed to make this sort of mis-positioning impossible.
And your breaker is in the wrong place.
Note how your generator interlock breaker is crowded up against the top edge of the panel.  There is no half-space above it, as we know there must be.   That means the entire breaker is in space 1 - both legs - and that means both legs are on the same pole, which means they are a dead short to each other.  No wonder the gen breaker trips!
Since the breaker is keyed to be unable to go there, I bet if you pull the breaker, you will find someone used a Dremel or Skil Saw to cut a notch on the breaker, to let it slide over the bus stab. Or just hammered it into place and it fits poorly.
That’s because whoever installed it, realized their interlock kit was made for full-size 2-space breakers only, and would not work with this double-stuff. They were under time pressure to get a signoff and a check, so they horked it just like this, and had no idea how badly they screwed it up.
There’s another possibility: the generator crew might’ve Done The Right Thing, and then somebody else came along to add a circuit, and went “Oh hey, I can double-stuff this generator interlock breaker...”
Fixing it
You can try placing the breaker correctly - 1/2 of a space downward; merely swap it with the 1-pole half-space breaker directly beneath it.  However, I suspect the design of the interlock won’t play nice with that 2-pole double-stuff, even if it was placed correctly.   So I think your only option is to install the “classic” full-size 2-pole breaker, such as this.
That will displace 2 double-stuffs; they will simply have to go somewhere else.  If you’re crunched for space, it’s subpanel time.  You should never tolerate being out of breaker panel spaces; because it causes a huge amount of problems in shortcuts, hacks and bad work.  You should have maybe half your spaces unused.


Solvented or Solvent-Free Grab Adhesives? Most makes of grab adhesive have both a Solvented or Solvent-Free version?

When and why should I used each of them……

It depends on just 2 things. What you're doing & what the labeling says. I use Loctite Power Grab for most of my situations & I haven't had a single issue yet, but I've only just gotten to 10-years on stuff where I first used it.

Liquid Nails though I don't use ever. Because, I found it in multiple situations & renovations where it was barely 10-years old & up to 30-years old & the entire range was always dried out & completely released from everything, worthless.

Solvent-Free adhesives would really just be used for low VOC situations or upholstery, fabric, foam & foam-board applications, where you don't want to damage what's being glued.


How should I connect my replacement 3-way switches? I'm trying to replace upstairs/downstairs lighted Leviton Decora 3-way switches that control one light upstairs with GE Z-Wave On/Off 3-Way Light Switches (from the kit version, 45638). The problem is there's quite a lot of extra wires, and as I'm a new owner to this house I'm still trying to figure out how the previous owners wired everything. Many of the outlets/switches I've replaced have been mickey moused into working, some pretty dangerous.

So getting to the problem at hand... there are more wires in the upstairs box than there are in the downstairs one. Reading up on typical 3-way switch replacements, this configuration doesn't seem to be a normal, as far as I can tell. It has a Common (Black) and two travelers (Red & White), but it also has two sets of capped off wires (2x Black and 2x White) which I'm not sure where they go. The downstairs box has a Common (Black), and two Travelers (Red & White) Only. I'm leaving out Ground wires as everything has a ground, so that's not the issue.

For ease of explaining: here's a diagram of the up/downstairs wiring as it is currently with the Leviton Decora 3-way switches and then on the bottom what the GE 3-way On/Off Light Switch side-screw configurations look like. All the side-screws have been exaggerated so you can see the colors of the screws.

So it comes down to:

Will the Z-Wave switches even be compatible?
If so, which wires should be connected to which screws on the Z-Wave switches?

First off, the wiring of the existing setup looks totally normal as depicted in the diagram.

It looks like you can use these new switches in the current wiring setup. But first it is necessary to understand the connections of the two right cables shown in the upstairs switch box. One of these goes off to the light fixture and the other is the incoming power cable.

Cut the power at the circuit breaker box and make 100% sure that the power is off with a non-contact circuit tester. Also good to verify with a volt meter as well.
Remove the twist on wire connector that joins the two black wires in the upstairs box. Also remove the black wire that connects to the current upstairs switch Common terminal. Make sure you position all the wires so that they are not going to touch and are safely away from any other terminals or the electrical box and grounds. Next step is to identify which of the two right most black wires comes from the power panel circuit breaker and which one goes to the light fixture. The safest way to do this is to use a wire tracer tool from the light fixture box. The alternative, but less safe, is to temporarily turn the power back on and use a volt meter to see which of the two black wires becomes energized with the AC mains voltage. Once determined turn the power back off and/or remove the wire tracer. Mark the correct cable as LIGHT and the other as POWER so as to not confuse which is which.
You will use the AUX switch in the downstairs location. Remove the old switch and connect the new one as follows: Red to Traveler terminal - White to Neutral Terminal - Safety Ground to switch ground and Black will be capped off and not used.
The RELAY switch will be used in the upstairs location. Remove the old switch and then follow the steps below to connect the new relay switch.
Note that I will refer to your two right most cables as the LIGHT cable and the POWER cable as you determined and marked in step 2. As drawn in your diagram the left cable is the one that routes to the downstairs switch box.
Connect the white wires of all three cables together along with a white pigtail. This will be a wire nut that has four wires in it. These will now connect the neutral of the incoming power cable to neutral for the upstairs switch, to the neutral return from the light fixture and neutral for the upstairs relay switch on the pigtail.
Connect the other end of the white pigtail to the Neutral terminal on the relay switch.
Connect the safety Ground from the relay switch into the three ground wire connections in the box from the three cables.
Connect the red wire to the Traveler terminal on the relay switch.
Connect the black wire from the marked POWER cable to the Line terminal on the relay switch. This should connect to nothing else.
Connect the black wire from the marked LIGHT cable to the Load terminal on the relay switch. This should connect to nothing else.
The black wire in the left most cable will not be connected to anything and should be capped off.

That should do it. You can double check your work, mount the switches to the box and restore power to the circuit.


Receptacle replacement voltage shows as 11V Thank you for any help or advice you can provide. I am replacing a receptacle in my basement. The first problem I noted was I had a three prong receptacle, but there was no ground wire. The main incoming wires have a ground connected in the back of the box, but the receptacle ground was not attached to anything.

After the receptacle was removed I switched the breaker on to troubleshoot why the bottom receptacle doesn't work. There are two breakers labeled basement.  If I open both breakers labeled basement, no power. If the bottom one is shut with the top one open, the voltage is normal 110V. However, If I reverse it, with the bottom open and top shut I get 11 volts. What would give me the measured 11 V?

Grounding

If you have a metal box, there should be a grounding pathway to the metal box.  This can be a ground wire attached to the box with a #10-32 screw in the threaded hole provided on the box; or metal conduit (but not necessarily armored cable); or a combination.

A receptacle has a set of metal ears on top and bottom. This is called a "yoke".  These metal parts are bonded internally to the ground socket holes and the ground screw.

If you have a grounded metal box... and the receptacle is screwed down so that the ears bottom out on the metal box... and you have solid metal-metal contact between receptacle and box... that is a valid grounding path.  It is not valid if the ears "hang up" on drywall or plaster and there's a bit of screw length. Despite being all metal, screws are not a valid grounding path.

Two breakers, two circuits

Imagine if you unfurl 500 feet of electrical wire parallel to a high tension line. Will you get a measurable voltage?  You bet.  You're picking it up like radio waves.  Will it be useful for anything?  Nope.

The same happens in wires running parallel in your house.  If one is hot and you test the other, sensitive voltmeters like a DVM will see a stray voltage.  It's not useful for anything; an incandescent night-light won't light up.  In fact, that's a great way to arrest this stray voltage: plug a night-light into one receptacle while measuring the other.

Other than that, I would say you have a very serious problem if the socket measures 120V with one breaker on, and 0V with both breakers on.  That would indicate something complicated and weird, and potentially dangerous.


Good low cost tools for woodwork I'm starting to get into some woodwork for building a desk for my home and I need to purchase some tools, but I'm not really sure of what to look for to determine if a tool is of good quality.

I don't want superb top of the line tools as I won't be using them that often but I need something that will not hinder my work, and I definitely want something that will at least be good for a couple years (maybe).

I'll probably be needing

a power drill
a circular saw
a jig saw
orbital sander or belt sander

A Doweling jig can be useful.

or a Pocket hole jig.

And plenty of clamps (big ones, small ones, band clamps are nice).

For power tools I find that Ryobi has decent tools for a good prices.


In a multigang box, can I reduce the pigtails by using one single wire for all hots? I'm curious if it's to code to use one wire (with 1/4" spots that have the sheathing trimmed off, which connect to the terminals) for all my grounds and one wire for all my hot connections in a multi-gang switch box. This is an attempt to reduce the pigtails in the box.

Is there a term for this idea/technique? I thought it might be called daisy chaining, but I don't know if that term is specific to this technique.

Below is a pic of what I was doing prior. I'm also curious if the wire nuts aren't big enough for all 4 of the wires, if I can safely use a wire to jump to another wire nut (reducing the wire nuts to only 3 wires each)?

I'm not sure if there's an official term for this wiring technique, but it is certainly an acceptable method of wiring devices.


Emerson Liebert Air Conditioner Fan Runs Abnormal We have 2 Emerson Liebert air conditioners inside a datacenter. Issue is not a home issue but devices are all same and I supposed finding some expert here. Here is the thing:

This 2 devices are designed to work together, communicating via network cables over ethernet switch. Both has Hiross compressors, one has an additional unit named Siemens Poly Cool Superheat (I am not sure but it might be something like Variable Frequency Drives). Our mechanic said its compressor is also different than other's.

This device was broken for over a year. We have had a mechanic fixed the device today. Everything seemed normal while the mechanic was at ours. Later, I have noticed something weird. Condenser's fan runs at a very high rpm than interrupts in 2 or 3 seconds. Then, just it is almost stopped, runs again at a high rpm. It continues like so. Even room temperature was over than set value, it runs like so.

Is there anyone knows about Hiross or Siemens Poly Cool module or Emerson Liebert air conditioners?

Depending on your specific equipment setup, you may have a variable speed condenser fan, variable speed compressor, or both. With a variable speed compressor and condenser, the system would ideally maintain stable superheat and suction pressure (effectively controlled by the Siemens superheat controller) and would maintain a stable temperature differential across the condenser. If the compressor modulates to meet the demand on the coil, the discharge pressure should remain reasonably stable.

I have seen in refrigeration and HVAC that a technician will often override the compressor and/or condenser modulation (either VFD or ECM controller) and put them "in hand" or into fixed speed mode. The first thing you should check is to see if the controllers are able to modulate speeds; if they have been put into override, set them back into auto control.

Whether the compressor is variable speed or not, if the compressor is being cycled on/off too rapidly and the condenser controller settings are off, it may be driving up and down rapidly to accommodate the fluctuating load from the compressor. It may also be tripping on current overload, as already mentioned in another answer. The following assumes that the condenser fan is not having electrical issues.

Observe the compressor behavior in conjunction with the condenser's cycling: is the compressor cycling off and on with the condenser? If so, verify that your compressor controller settings are not trying to adjust to changing suction pressure too rapidly (slow down the ramp time, increase the proportional band, etc.) Regardless of whether the compressor is fixed or variable speed, it should be running for 5-10 minutes at a time (at a minimum) in cold weather; any more frequently and the compressor is short cycling.

If the compressor is short cycling, correct this and verify that your condenser controls are no longer having issues.

If the compressor is not short cycling (or if you have fixed the issue and are still having condenser fan problems), take a look at the condenser controller settings. Verify that the set points are reasonable (i.e. a 20-30F, sometimes 40F temperature differential over your condensing medium is typical for HVAC systems; refrigeration typically runs between 10-20F). Also check the controller settings (proportional band, ramp time) for the condenser cycling. Like the compressor, the condenser should be running for longer periods of time, but it will not be running during extended periods when the compressor is off.

Verify your evaporator settings, too. The Siemens superheat controller should be trying to maintain a specific leaving air temperature temperature (typically 55F) with a temperature differential across the coil (anywhere from 5-30F) with 10-20F superheat at the outlet. When the thermostat sends a cooling signal to the unit, the compressor and condenser should cycle on, and the superheat controller should maintain a stable evaporating temperature.

If you are still having issues after verifying that the controllers are set correctly, begin checking the temperatures and pressures. Verify that the condenser pressure is somewhere between 20-40 degrees F over your ambient outdoor temperature (assuming the condenser is outdoors; if it is condensing in another conditioned space for some reason or using a fluid cooler, substitute that temperature for outdoor air temperature). Use a refrigerant pressure-temperature chart (US, SI) to check your discharge pressure versus the condensing temperature. If your ambient temperature is 90F and you have a 10F temperature differential (TD), your discharge pressure should be around 225 psig from the compressor (which corresponds to 100F). Do the same for the evaporator: the evaporator inlet pressure should be approximately equal to the condensing pressure and the evaporator outlet pressure should correspond to the evaporating temperature. With a 10F TD across the evaporator (i.e. 45-55F), the evaporating pressure should be around 70psig. The evaporator outlet temperature should be in excess of this value; the difference between the temperature that corresponds to the evaporator outlet pressure (measured using a transducer or pressure gauge) and the actual evaporator outlet temperature (measured using a temperature sensor) is known as the superheat. The superheat should match the commanded superheat on the controller.

If you are still having issues after verifying all of the above, post back with additional information about the system (model numbers) and the pressure/temperature readings from the controllers.

One final thing to consider: R-407C, being a blend of different refrigerants, will exhibit what is called "glide." What this means for you is that at a given pressure, you can have two observe two different temperatures (dew and bubble) depending on how much of the refrigerant is liquid and how much is vapor. This can cause problems with your controllers if they are expecting a specific temperature/pressure setting, e.g. you have P=20psig at the bubble temperature (when the liquid begins to vaporize) instead of the dew temperature (when the vapor begins to condense to liquid). The P-T chart I linked to above indicates whether the number is a dew or bubble temperature. The concept makes more sense when you look at a pressure-enthalpy diagram (I can't post a third link; Google "Dupont R-407C pressure enthalpy diagram"). Note that inside the saturation dome, the isotherms (lines of constant temperature) have a slope between the left and right sides of the dome. For single-component refrigerants, the line is flat/there is no glide.


What is the best way to subdivide and heat a large room? I live in a large room and would like to subdivide my room, such that it can be heated with a space heater/small mobile radiator.

I live at the end/corner of a large L shaped room, with concrete walls on three sides and a couple of windows. I would like to add a temporary wall on the fourth side, such that it affords me additional privacy and allows for heating.

I currently have a couple of bookshelves and a single sheet dividing my area. Would hanging a plastic tarp or fabric from the ceiling help significantly?

I can't really build a wall from scratch of build anything moderately permanent.

I was in a situation like this a while ago. I was also under a constraint where I could not make modifications of any kind (no nails, drilling, etc). So here is what I ended up doing.

Bought a bunch of C clamps. Since the room had open beam ceiling, I could use the clamps on the beams.
Put a clamp on every fourth or fifth beam so that the clamps were approximately 55 apart.
Went to a fabric store and bought several yards of the cheapest heavy fabric I could find. I also wanted something half way pleasent in appearance.
Cut the fabric in lengths that were the same as the height of the ceiling.
String rope (I used steel cable as it could be strong tighter) through the clamps.
Loop the ends of each piece of fabric over the rope and fasten the loop closed with safety pins.
Now you have a fabric divider for your room. It should keep warm air inside a section of the room.

With this method, you could have multiple layers of fabric for better insulation.


Bathroom Layout - Code Questions I have a half bath that is 5' 2" x 7' 3" (measured from drywall to drywall) that I'm hoping to add a shower to. I know that it will be tight, and I'm ok with that, but I'm trying to figure out if I can do it to code. Below is a diagram of the installation I'm contemplating. I'm planning on tiling the shower, and I've allowed 3/4" for the thickness of the waterproofing membrane, thinset, and tile on the left wall, which is why the full length is only 86.25" rather than 87".

My municipality recognizes the 2015 International Residential Code, which I believe is the proper code governing clearances here. My questions are as follows:

For the shower, I am planning on installing a glass wall in the middle of the shower curb. Does the width of the shower curb that is on the shower side of the glass count towards the minimum dimension specified in P2708.1 of the code?

  Shower compartments shall be not less than 30 inches (762 mm) in minimum dimension measured from the finished interior dimension of the shower compartment, exclusive of fixture valves, shower heads, soap dishes, and safety grab bars or rails. The minimum required area and dimension shall be measured from the finished interior dimension at a height equal to the top of the threshold and at a point tangent to its centerline and shall be continued to a height of not less than 70 inches (1778 mm) above the shower drain outlet.

It seems to me that since the minimum dimension is measured "from the top of the threshold," I could theoretically reduce the shower width to 27.75" and still hit the 30" minimum when the 2.25" width of the enclosed shower curb is included (I'm not including the thickness of the glass for simplicity). I'm just not clear on where the point "tangent to its centerline" is, as curves have tangents, not centerlines.
Do I need to account for the 6" high shower curb when measuring the clearance for the toilet, or will this clearance be measured from the glass shower wall that is centered on the shower curb? The relevant code is as follows (section P2705):

  A water closet, lavatory or bidet shal not be set closer than 15 inches (381 mm) from its center to any side wall, partition or vanity or closer than 30 inches (762 mm) center-to-center between adjacent fixtures.

I could see this being at the discretion of the inspector, and if I am correct regarding question 1 above, then I can eliminate the shower curb's overlap with the toilet clearance by reducing the size of the shower floor and moving the glass partition from the middle of the curb to the edge. I would prefer not to do this if I don't have to, however.
Based on the section P2705 quoted above, it would seem that my vanity placement will not work, as the center of the sink will only be 27" from the center of the toilet, and 12" from the adjacent wall. That said, I believe that 24" vanities in corners are fairly commonplace, so am I missing something here? I can find a lot online about toilet clearance, but few discussions on sink clearance. I am able to find corner mount sinks, and these would allow me to achieve 30"+ of clearance between the center of the sink and the center of the toilet, but I can't fathom how these would be to code if you need 15" of clearance from the wall.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide on any of these questions.

Edit: I also realize that showers with an area greater than 1,300 square inches can actually have a minimum dimension as small as 25", so I can reduce the width if I have to. 30" is already really tight though, so I don't want to go much smaller than that unless I absolutely have to.

Just in case anyone stumbles on this post, I got a few answers from my local building department. Since my local building department uses unmodified versions of the 2015 international codes (Building, Plumbing, Residential, etc.), their guidance should be applicable to many other municipalities.

In short, the design I submitted was not approved. As the code clearly states, lavatories (i.e. the sink) must have a minimum clearance of 15" on either side, no exceptions. So, while there are many 24" and smaller vanities out there, if you put them in a corner, they will not be up to the 2015 International Residential Code or the 2015 International Plumbing Code.

Finally, as it relates to my questions on the shower curb infringing on the minimum clearances for the toilet and the shower, my municipality was not concerned with this, they said they would measure the clearances from the glass shower wall. Other municipalities may differ, so always check with your local inspector.

Here's a plan of the design that I eventually got approved by the city.


Why wont the pull cord retract on my honda eu20i generator? I had no issues with the pull cord recoil starter on my newly acquired used Honda eu20i.

Suddenly the  the pull cord stopped recoiling at all.  I figured the spring had just broke  but on removing the unit it seems there's at least some tension still in it. With a broken spring I would expect no tension.

Have you any ideas what's going on?

Also I cant see any center bolt or fixing so that I could remove the recoil mechanism and inspect the spring.

Is it possible to dismantle the recoil starter on an eu20i?

Some tension? Usually with that retractor unit on the bench the spring has to be pre-tensioned sufficiently to retract the pull cord with alacrity ie not “just enough” but with speed and force.
I found that it would need the same number of turns plus 1 and you need to be carefull when doing the pre-tension as the mechanism can jump out and you might get hit...


Can I safely make a door frame taller? UPDATE:
April 22 What I ended up doing was removing the trim non-destructively. Above the door frame, it was clearly not load bearing, so I continued and was not so non-destructive. The end-result are doorways that are standard height (and I can walk through them without ducking)

ORIGINAL POST:
The 3 door frames on my second floor are 6 ft tall. Myself, being a hair over 6 ft tall, often hit my head. Our ceilings are also 7 ft tall, and we have sloped ceilings upstairs, so it already feels cramped

We don't have doors upstairs right now anyway. Instead of getting custom height doors, I'd prefer to increase the height of the frame and use standard size prehungs.

How can I safely do this (or determine that it will be safe to do this)? I don't know how to determine if these frames help with load-bearing. My guess would be the remove the trim, cut away the plaster above the door, remove the cross piece of the frame and nail another one into the top-plate of the wall. What I'd hate to do (or whatever, what my wife will yell at me for doing) is destroying part of the wall and frame, and finding out I can't do it.

Remove trim.
Remove door casing.
Remove drywall around jack studs (2x4 closest to door opening on each side) and pretty much all the way up to the ceiling.  Stop if you have roofing structure above your door - keep going if you don't.
Pull out jack studs (you could just extend them with a piece of 2x4 on non load bearing walls)
Push up header to desired height.  You will have to take out the cripples (small 2x4s) above the header.  I don't think the door in your picture is going up a foot with that trim.
Put in new longer jack studs on each side.
Install new, longer door.
Drywall, mud, tape, all that good stuff - this might take the longest.
Install new, longer trim.  You could use old trim if you could find some casing that will fit on the bottom corners and if door is same width.


Is it ok to put a plug on a light fitting? I want to put some extra lighting in my workshop but don't have much to spend so am looking to do it all myself if possible. I'm looking to use led battens, similar to this one or this, but not exactly sure at the moment (or I may use simple pendant and ceiling rose fitting).

My plan is use wire this onto a plug (3A fuse) with flex cable which I can route from the socket to the ceiling.

Would this work and is it safe? When I have a bit more time and money in a few months i will look to get an electrician to properly add it to the lighting circuit. So this would be a semi temporary solution. Does this sound ok? Thanks for any advice you may have.

Well, there is "safe" and then there is "safe and legal".  Running what amounts to an extension cord up the wall to a light meant to be hard wired is going to be a code violation and there are subtle safety issues.

As far as "will this work and not kill me", then probably.  The cord needs to be fastened to the wall so no one trips on it or snags it with their hands or something they are carrying.  The connections at the light need to be done properly and fastened securely so the wire can't be puled out.

Would I do this in the living room with kids and visitors?  No, not at all.  But if this is just to get some light in the garage until a real light can be installed?  Sure, but make sure everything is very secure.  The real reason this is dangerous is mostly the cord getting damaged or pulled or having the light fall on your head.


Repainting exterior sandstone We live in a traditional Victorian house in the North-East of England, i.e. fairly damp and wet. The windows have sandstone lintels. However due to damp and age the paint eventually bubbles (see picture).

I would like to repaint the house exterior.

What is the best way of treating and preventing future paint bubbles on the sandstone?
A couple of dozen bricks have also been painted. What's the best way of stripping the paint off these bricks to expose the original bricks.

The best answer is to remove the paint. Get the sandstone dry - really dry, camped out in the desert for a day dry. I have found something like this, can convinced a block that gets no sun to dry/tan itself.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/some_guy/17000465161/

The stone will need to be at a temperature inside the bounds of the paint label.

Paint with something like

https://www.flickr.com/photos/some_guy/16381291883/

Paint with exterior paint of your choice (with paint you get what you pay for. Going to sherwin-williams is not throwing away money.)

As far as removing paint: Stainless steel brush of your choice. One for a grinder is not wrong, but it is easy to remove too much stone. Take note, removing paint from stone will really be removing the stone to which paint is stuck. Sandstone absorbs paint, you can not remove just the paint.


Temporary "emergency" electrical power supply improvisation Someone fraudulently terminated my contract with my local utility so they disconnected my house without my consent (also the grid operator's notice never reached the people living there and paying for energy, because the adversary also has post diverted).
The disconnect happened two days ago, which is against the law (not before weekends and public holidays). Emergency stand-by refuses to help because for them it is a contract issue, not a failure.

A kind neighbor plugged a single-phase, 230 VAC extension cord into a receptacle on the outside of their house, so I could charge my mobile and get rid of the candles at least.

I am in Lower Austria. We have three-phase 400 VAC supply to the main panel where circuits go off 1-N or 2-N or 3-N alternating to get the standard 230V for room outlets and light.

Their cable is on 16A fuse. Can I switch my main three-phase+N breaker to the off position, connect the three phases, and connect the live of the extension cord to that, and the common N to the extension cord's N, and both PEs to get a safe, temporary, emergency supply to my house, when I take care to switch on only a bare minimum of light/appliances at the same time?

You cannot rely on procedures to avoid backfeeding

So it is not enough to switch off the main breaker and then tie a string on your finger to remind you not to turn it on.  You must actually remove the meter, or output wires from the house side of the main breaker (many European panels have wires run between main and branch circuit breakers). The panel must be rendered safe from someone turning on the main breaker or any other breaker unawares, and backfeeding must be impossible.

My usual approach is to rewire the panel "permanently", then rewire it back

The hot and neutral from the various circuits can be attached to an inlet or if your Code allows, a short electric cord with a proper strain relief and fittings leaving the panel.

Internal to the panel, you jumper it around so any circuits which need power are pulling hot and neutral pull from the inlet/cord.  Do all this properly, using permanent wiring methods to Code.

Then, when power returns, you put it back the way it originally was.

You must be careful not to "paint yourself into a corner", i.e. don't disconnect anything that will be energized when power returns.  In fact, while working, assume the power company could restore power at any moment.


Gen 3 Nest not charging suddenly I installed a nest thermostat a month ago. A very simple two wire install for a boiler.  It worked fine without any issues for a month.  This morning I went to adjust the temperature remotely and was told it was offline.

When I went down to the thermostat I found it had a low battery condition and had disabled the wifi antenna. I checked the voltage in the line, ~28V.
The unit does appear to be communicating with the boiler as adjusting the temperature does cycle the boiler, it just appears to be no longer drawing energy for a charge.

Nest customer service is probably your best bet, but I'm going to give you a guess.

In a two wire install the Nest charges itself when the boiler is off, using the difference in voltage between the two sides of the on/off relay inside the Nest itself.  A small amount of current is allowed to flow through the charging circuit, and back to the power supply via the boiler's on/off circuitry.  This current is small enough to charge the Nest but not signal the boiler to turn on.  When the Nest wants the boiler on it closes an internal relay and shorts the two wires together.  Enough current flows to signal the boiler to turn on, but there is no longer a difference in voltage to charge the Nest.

It has been very cold in the US recently.  My guess is the Nest has to turn the boiler on for long periods of time, probably long enough that its small internal battery has not had enough time to recharge while the boiler is off.

If you are handy you might try tracing the thermostat wiring and look if it would be possible to install a new cable with more conductors so the Nest can have always on power available to it.  If you can run the wire (available at most home improvement and hardware stores) a heating technician could switch over to the new cable in a single short visit.


Repairing animal damage in concrete driveway My driveway has a few separate slabs (is this the right terminology?) and an animal has been digging in the gaps between two slabs. The gap is 1 - 1.5" wide. It looks like the rain is washing away the sand/dirt beneath because I can see open area.

What's my best course of action? I was planning on trying to fill the gaps with sand as best I could through the gap, and then seal the gap with something. Do I want to use something like a  caulk or something more like a tar? Links would be great!

I would fill gaps with polymeric sand, then lightly water the joint lines (think 'mist' not spray).  The sand will 'set' like concrete, but with some flexibility, so it shouldn't freeze/frost heave.

Be sure to follow directions about packing joint and cleaning loose sand up before misting.


saddle valve cap not fitting Seen a lot of answers about bad saddle valves, and I was just going to use a threaded cap. I bought this cap - Anderson Metals 56108 Brass Pipe Fitting, Cap, 1/4" NPT Female Pipe. Had the teflon tape an was ready to go but when I tried the cap it was to big? Why did it not fit? Is this cap different than a 1/4 inch threaded compression cap? Please advise

That saddle valve discharge is not 1/4" pipe thread but instead is a 1/4" OD compression fitting. If you want to cap that fitting you need to purchase a cap for the 1/4" OD compression fitting. One thing to remember, not only can the valve leak but the rubber washer that seals the saddle to copper tubing will harden with time and could also fail. I hated saddle valves as a cheap install and instead used a "fitting by 1/4" pipe bushing" to make the connection or solder in a ball valve in standard copper and reduce it's discharge to 1/4" OD copper. my 2 cents


Connecting a hose to a 3/8 compression fitting I have a dog waterer that has a female garden hose connection. I would like to take a tee off my 3/8 compression fitting above my cut off valve under the sink to connect to this. Any suggestions on the best route to go? I would prefer to stick with a short braided hose like you would use for a toilet to make the run... But I have no idea how to take a compression fitting to a garden hose.

Not knowing what your valves under your sink look like , I would suggest possibly a new valve with 2 ports or the addition of a T  on a 3/8 fitting then you could find a pre made hose like you want for a Refrigerator, this can feed your waterer.

I would want an independent shut off incase of problems,
my plumbing speciality store could set up all the parts needed and suggest things like an extra valve just in case by using a photo of your existing under sink set up. They may cost a few dollars more but 1 trip ends up saving time and frustration in the long run compared to the big box stores , the big box may have what you need but getting the correct help sometimes it tough.


Do I need to ground my pool? I am have a concrete pool installed and the builder attached a ground cable to the rebar before spraying the concrete. He told me it is up to us whether we want to ground it or not. Given the lights are 12V, I don't really see any point in this. Any thoughts on this?

I never knew that pool rebar was grounded or bonded, so I did a search and found what looks to be a pretty good article on the subject:  http://www.poolspanews.com/2009/051/051grid.html

The lights in the pool may be 12V, but you've certainly got a transformer for those lights, a pump, and possibly other stuff in the pool area that is at line voltage, and you want all of these things and the pool itself to be bonded together and grounded.


Will using portable heaters in the attic during heavy snow help melt it? If I use garage-type heaters in the attic during the winter, will this help
keep snow and ice off the roof?

Very unlikely.

what would happen is that the snow or ice on the roof would melt somewhat, flow down to the edge of the roof where the attic ends, and refreeze, forming large ice dams. The ice and snow would continue to melt, backing up liquid water against the roof and evenutually finding its way under the shingles and through the sheathing into your home where it would drip down the ceilings and walls onto your dog, your kids and your computer. You would then curse and try to find a solution, but by then its too late. Your kids would hate you, your computer would be ruined.


Wireless Security System deadbolts with door handle that locks - how to disable door locks We installed a wireless security system to eliminate keys for entry into the home.  This works well for the dead bolt, but the door handle has the lever on the inside to turn and lock.  To enter, you have to have a key.  What is the best solution without tearing up the door handle lock for future owners?

I would simply leave it, and not use that lock.  That way if your wireless deadbolt breaks, or you need some extra privacy, you can still lock the house.

Failing that, just shove something in the hole in the frame so you cant engage the lock.  Easy to reverse if needed.


Does a device with a two prong plug need surge protection? I have an iPhone and iPad whose power adapters are both two-prong.  Since I cannot ground them in a surge protector, is it necessary that these devices even be used with a surge protector?

Grounding the 2 prong adapters has nothing to do with it.  The point of a surge protector is

  to protect electrical devices from voltage spikes. A surge protector
  attempts to limit the voltage supplied to an electric device by either
  blocking or by shorting to ground any unwanted voltages above a safe
  threshold

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surge_protector

In other words, the idea of the surge protector is to prevent surges of electricity from ever getting to your device.  As long as the surge protector ITSELF is grounded, your devices being ungrounded is irrelevant.

The chargers/adapters you're using are little transformers - they convert 120v AC power into a certain amount of DC power using magnetic conversion fields (wires wrapped a certain #'s of times around one side of the magnet for incoming power and a different number of times around the other side of the magnet for outgoing power).  An electrical surge (say 1000V instead of the usual 120) into this device will, in turn, cause the magnet to convert that much more power - so when the output should have been 9v it could be as much as 900v.

So yes - absolutely - use the surge protector, regardless of the number of prongs your device has.


How to drill a hole safely? A friend of mine rented a new apartment and asked me to help with some shelves. We will need to drill some holes for screwing the shelves.

One of the places has a electrical socket near by and the water for the washing machine.

I am really worried that we either hit the plumbing or the power cables. I was wondering if there is any (formal or informal) rule / good practice about plumbing and electrical cabling on the walls that sets the approximate height of each? Is there any other advice that we can follow to avoid a big mess?

There is no set standard height, but this is generally a pretty safe operation.

You'll want to use a stud finder to locate the studs, and attach the shelf brackets to studs for strength.

You'll  usually only hit a pipe or power in a stud if it runs through the stud horizontally.  Modern building codes require a piece of heavy sheet metal be installed on the face of the studs where pipes and cables pass through.  They also require the pipe or cable to be set back from the face of the stud a bit.

So if the building is fairly modern, and the plumbers / electricians followed the rules, you should be safe - if you try to screw into the stud where there's a pipe or cable, you'll hit the plate and the screw won't go in.

There is no guarantee that the plumber / electrician followed the rules, and nothing's perfectly safe, but this is generally a pretty safe project.


Odd Wiring in garage - split 240 breaker into two 120 circuits Yup, that's right.  Now, maybe this is okay, but it seems terrible to me.  I bought this house about 3 months ago, so I don't know the reasoning why, but from what I've seen this guy made some poor choices in his DIY work.

There is a 30 amp 240 breaker wired to two individual 120v circuits through 12 awg wire.  All I can figure is they ran one leg to one wall of outlets, and one to the other, then somehow branched extra wires to bring the neutrals and grounds back together.  I don't know what the wiring looks in the walls to split this, or to splice the neutrals and grounds.

My question first, is this acceptable, and is the breaker size proper for the wire.

Two, I need space for one more slot in my panel, there is no reason for these circuits to be separate as far as I can tell - all they run is a couple outlets each, all in the same room. I'm sure this idea is BAD too, but can I bring both hot leads into a single 20 amp 120 breaker?

Going to a standard (15 or 20A) outlet, it should be a 20 amp breaker max (also, with 12 awg wire, the max breaker is 20 amp).
Using a double pole breaker with 2 hot 1 neutral and 1 ground is called a multi wire branch circuit. With 12 awg wire on a 20 amp breaker this would be code compliant and is used regularly to save on wire cost. The neutral and ground splits and goes with each hot.


Glass deck above basement addition We're planning to expand our basement underneath our deck and would ideally like to cover this section of the deck in glass as in this photo.  (Posted: Wear skirts at your own risk!)

Our architect figures it would cost about $75k for the glass and supports alone, to do a similarly sized implementation in our home.  The interior dimensions are about 15'X 9' Do others agree with this estimate, or is there was perhaps a cost-saving measure that our architect might not have thought of.

Otherwise we'll be stuck with just a few glass panels at ~$3k each.

Smells high, but hard to be sure. Older and presumably less expensive implementations seen under sidewalks use more of a concrete grid with small pieces of frosted glass - better relative strength and modesty preserved, but no stargazing from the basement. And, if the glass was broken (it's usually quite robust) there's no chance of people falling through it, given the much tighter support grid.

I'd imagine the sort of thing pictured is done on a one-off basis, so you have to pay for the engineering to your specific application, and the materials. And probably someone's liability insurance on the thing.


Rainwater Collection / Pond Water Storage (Tower) Support Question I am planning to build a *water tower for garden irrigation.  I live in NC and have a 45'x70' garden so this time of year I need a considerable amount of water.  Given how little rain we've been getting I believe I'll have to use my pond as a reservoir to help meet my irrigation needs.  All this said, I'm trying to determine how I want to support the tower.  My thought is to have (2) 330 gallon IBC totes elevated to about 10'-12' and possibly add (2) 275 gallon IBC totes below those, ~6'-8' off the ground.

Given the incredible load this would create I figure the easiest thing to use as a support structure would be pallet racks.  Does anyone have any thoughts on this?  I plan to side the sides and roof to keep the weather off of whatever structure I use.  The tower would be located on the back side of my house, where I could get approximately half of my roofs downspouts pouring into the system.  Given the proximity to my house I want to make sure the tower does not topple.  Would it be alright to set the pallet rack on a stone & sand bed or should I pour a re-bar reinforced cement pad?  Generally speaking this side of my house is very dry as there is a sump pump on the other side of the foundation wall.  The pump discharges a fair distance away, 4-5ft below the grade of where the tower would be located.

This is a stunningly bad idea, IMHO. As @Comintern notes, that's a rather significant load to plop beside your house.  Far simpler and safer to run your downspouts over to where your sump pump discharges, and put a basin & pump there that pumps water uphill, to your storage tanks, set somewhere uphill, so they will provide water pressure when you are without power, if that's your concern. You could even put a hand pump in the system alongside the electrical one if you like. Or you could construct a much less scary (far less weight) structure that carried a trough or pipe from your gutters to the storage tank. If you lack a suitable hill, you could build one at a safe distance from the house and convenient to the garden with a few dump-truck-loads of rock/gravel...

You would definitely need a reinforced slab to spread the load, and calling an engineer would be the right choice if you proceed down that path. What is your seismic hazard level? I'm in a "very low risk area" and I would still be quite concerned to have the structure you describe next to my house in the infrequent, rather minor and mostly far away quakes we have.


well pressure tank / external spigot I have an outdoor spigot (like the old red "pump handle" kind) in my back yard. It's down the hill from the well and pump, and in between the house / indoor pressure tank and the well head.
My dad thinks that the pump handle is in a direct line from the well (plumbed between the well and the pressure tank), but I'm thinking that the pump handle must be on a different line, after the pressure tank.
My reasoning is that the pressure switch on the pressure tank is what triggers the well pump to turn on, so if the pump handle was plumbed directly on a T from the well line and before the pressure tank, there's no way for the pump to get activated to supply pressure to the pump handle.
Anyone know how these are generally plumbed before I dig it out and take a look?
Adding info:
I want to run a line to an external unit (ADU over garage). I'm not sure if I need to run a line out from the pressure tank in the house, or if I can run from the pump handle. There's no filtration / water softener in the system, so no worries about treated vs. untreated

I'm thinking that the pump handle must be on a different line, after the pressure tank.…if the pump handle was plumbed directly on a T from the well line and before the pressure tank, there's no way for the pump to get activated to supply pressure to the pump handle

That reasoning is erroneous.
The pressure for the system is pretty much the same throughout, not counting friction losses while the water is moving and other tiny effects like that. If you open a valve anywhere in the system, the pressure for the entire system drops. It doesn't matter where the valve is.

Anyone know how these are generally plumbed before I dig it out and take a look?

There's not really any "generally plumbed", other than most installers will follow the path of least resistance. There's not any good reason that there should be a separate line from the pressure tank back to the spigot, so by far the most likely configuration is that there's a water line from the well to the spigot, and then from there to the pressure tank and the rest of the system.
One possible exception might be if there is a check-valve between the spigot and the pressure tank.
In many jurisdictions irrigation lines are required to be isolated from the household/potable water supply using a double-check-valve to ensure that no contaminated water can go backwards from the irrigation line into the potable line. But note that that sort of check-valve prevents backflow from the spigot, not backflow from the pressure tank. Only the latter type of check-valve would interfere with the operation of the spigot and require a separate line back to the spigot and there's no good reason to install one like that.
The usual double-check-valve configuration wouldn't pose any problem at all with respect to the pressure switch for the well.
Another possible exception might be if there is a water treatment system (e.g. filter, softener, etc.) present and there was a desire for the water from the spigot to be treated. In that case, a line would have to return to the spigot from the output site of the treatment.
I don't think these kinds of exceptions are likely. But of course there's no way to rule them out completely.
There remains the question of why you want to know how the lines are plumbed. Presumably you have some other broader goal in mind that you are trying to solve. Without knowing what that goal is, it's impossible to help with it. Consider posting a new question where you explain that goal, describe what you've done so far to solve it, and what specifically you need help with.


How to prepare floor for vinyl plank installation over old sheet vinyl I've demoed a built in bathroom vanity leaving a footprint that I had to fill in with OSB. The thickness of the new OSB and old sheet vinyl appears pretty darn level; maybe 1/16" (or less) off? Looking at the best options to 1) cover the seams where old vinyl meets OSB, but also 2) ensure that this new OSB replacement is level with the existing floor as best as possible? I'm not sure if a self-leveling compound can be poured on, or some form of floor patch could be troweled on to ensure a proper foundation before laying planks, or if this would even be overkill? Suggestions? For context, I'm installing 6 x 24" vinyl plank tiles over this. Separately, I also utilized screws (countersunk) to fasten the OSB to the previous subfloor which in hindsight apparently wasn't appropriate to do?

Is it Ok to use Henry’s patch’n level compound on the OSB and seams? Figured I could trowel it on and then sand presumably?

Unfortunately I don’t have the luxury of adding a thin underlayment to the entire room as the flooring that meets this room is so uneven and already low. Anymore depth added would make the transition very high and strange.

I would use the Henrys or remove the sheet vinyl.    No problem with your countersunk screwheads.


Two switches what is it for and what does it mean? I am not expertise as an Electrician here but I wanted to ask anyone here why do I have two switches here and what does that mean ?

Can anyone point me a good website that can I read about it ? I recently put up ceiling fan and had have no clue why I have two and we have them in several rooms.

If this is the kind of place a person might ordinarily put a ceiling fan... And if they also fit a ceiling fan-rated box when they built the place... Then most likely they also put the extra apparatus to allow you to switch the ceiling fan and light separately.

That would be /3 (or /4) cable in the walls and  a 2-gang switch box for 2 normal switches (so you don't have to use those janky twin switches and can use bulky dimmer, fan speed control or smart switch modules.) And my guess is they gave you two plain switches by default.

That's fairly standard for new builds, they want to let you pick your own fan or chandelier.


How can I close up a gap in the corner of the shower? We hired a contractor some time ago to remodel our bathroom. We started noticing things that didn't stand up to use soon after the project was completed. Most of them were minor, so no headaches there. However, one thing keeps happening that driving me crazy.
There's a large gap in the corner of the shower that was filled in with joint compound (I think). The caulk that was applied over it started to bubble up and become discolored. After we re-caulked a few times, it kept happening.
It's driving us up the wall, and I can't figure out if there is a DIY solution that doesn't involve taking tiles off.
If anyone has any interesting suggestions or ideas, I'm basically open to anything.

IF this is your only issue with this shower then you will have to borrow from the cheap hotel maintenance mandate of fixing shower corners.
That would be placing a strip of plastic (pvc) or glass along that whole corner.
This is how it works.

you get a 3" by "1/4" piece of glass or pvc that runs up the entire corner (high enough where water shouldn't be entering the top)
epoxy/glue that to the back wall
caulk each side and the top

The only weak point after doing this will be the very very bottom.   You just have to recaulk that frequently - every 6 months or so.
In my teen years I did this for a hotel chain using very flimsy shower pvc.   It would generally give the showers another 1-2 years which in the hotel world is like gold.