How should I protect the metal of a power rack that's kept outdoors? I plan on building a power rack for my home gym and was wondering what kind of metal/coating I should use when building it since it will be stored outdoors. Most commercial power racks are built using mild steel and are coated with paint to protect it from rust. These racks should last when used indoors but I'm not so sure if it will when it is kept outdoors.

If I were to build my power rack from mild steel, how should I go about protecting it from rusting? While the rack will stay outdoors, it will be situated under some kind of shade/tent similar to this:

The power rack will stand over concrete or plywood (over concrete), not grass/soil.

With these details in mind, can anyone suggest how I should treat/coat the mild steel? I've taught of powder coating it but again, I'm not sure how that would hold up. How about chroming? Is it too expensive/overkill?

How about using something similar to the following:

These are pictures of my old bench. Since the bench is still standing strong after so many years, I take something like its material would be appropriate for my use case. What do you call this kind of metal/coating, anyway? What properties does it have and is it difficult or expensive to produce/replicate?

Please provide details as to why I should prefer each method over the other. If you would prefer to use some other kind of metal(stainless steel, galvanized steel, aluminum etc), please state why. I tried Google-ing the pros and cons of each method of coating I stated above but I'm still unable to reason out to myself which one to use. If all of them would equally serve the purpose, I guess it will all boil down to which one is the most cost-effective to produce.

The finish shown is a type of paint - "Hammerite" is either the name, or the brand name of the most popular/first version. It's presumably on mild steel. However, any automotive paint should work (think about it) - and COULD be cheap if you have a cooperative paint shop and you don't care what color it is (ie, they can spray some excess when they spray something else, so it's not a special job where they have to mix paint and clean the spray guns just for your tiny job.) Some shops will, some shops won't - all you can do is ask.

Chrome is probably a bad idea - it's relatively expensive and the electro-plating process can increase the odds of steel cracking from hydrogen embrittlement.

Hot dip galvanizing (zinc coating) is probably a good option if you can find a shop with a tank big enough - ask around for places that do boat trailers - covers inside and out (be sure to put in holes so it can drain out, or you'll get a tubeful of zinc and a larger than expected bill for the coating process), and is durable in weather. It only comes in one color, which changes over time from shiny silver to a dull gray. It is preferable to using galvanized steel stock to build from, because you coat the whole object after fabrication, so the welded joints are protected.

Powder coating should work fine. It may chip a bit on the top section where the weight bar sits. It comes in many colors, and is fairly tough as compared to most paints - but hard to repair if it does chip.

By far the most cost effective method usually is to do through cleaning and preparation (the key to ANY paint job lasting) and paint it yourself, using a primer for steel (zinc chromate primer, for instance) and a topcoat - then keep an eye on it and sand and repaint whenever you see signs of new rust. You could use either the mentioned oil coating or an automotive undercoating on the inside of the tubes if feeling particularly cautious.


How can I convert a crawlspace to a basement? I have walk in crawl space. The celing hight is any where from 5ft to 9 ft. It is all dirt and NO concrete. The plumbing and HVAC lines running all over the places. All and all I have about 700 to 900 soft which can be converted to basement. I have a closet on the first floor which could be the access to the basement.
I need some direction where should I start. I will not be doing all the work by my self. I live in Charlotte NC area.

Where do you live? If the plan is to use the space as living space, most code will require a minimum ceiling height. That's usually 7'. So you either have to accept that you can only use a portion of the crawlspace, or you have to dig down deeper.

To dig down deeper, you need to bring in a structural engineer to figure out how to underpin the existing footers. That's typically done with a buttress wall a few feet in from the existing footer. So you will loose some perimeter space due to that.

If you have HVAC and mechanicals everywhere, keep in mind the time and costs to re-route all of that as well.

Enclosing a crawlspace is a good idea, but if the goal is ultimately to mainly get more livable space, you may want to investigate an above-ground addition instead. It may ultimately be easier (and cheaper) to do that rather than convert a crawlspace.


How do I get started removing this wood frame? This is a frame inset into this old leaded-glass window I'm going to restore. It is nailed into the original frame, and I can't get to any of the nail heads to get started. It's important that I don't damage the original wood, but the inset frame is junk.

Strategies?

You could use a reciprocating saw down the side of the frame an cut the nails.

You could also cut the inside frame in sections, without hitting the original frame. Then just break it apart with a hammer an chisel

Or if you can find where the nail heads are just chisel around them (without hitting nails) an enough room to grab the heads with a pair of pinches.


Can I vent a portable airco exhaust in the wall cavity? I'm renting an appartment in a small appartment block, which got very hot last summer, and very moist in winter when hanging our laundry. The obvious solution would be to place a protable airco unit,but the problem is that we live near a very busy road, so opening a window even slightly makes conversation quite difficult.

However, there is an air vent, that is basically a hole with a vent cover through the 'inside' wall; when the vent is opened, there is a noticeable airflow of outside air entering the room, suggesting that there are also some holes in the 'outside' wall (visual inspection seems to confirm this, although it's difficult to see).

I was wondering if I could vent the airco in that hole, or whether venting in the wall cavity is a Bad Idea ©.

Moist warm air  when it is exhausted behind enclosed walls (even slightly vented ones) have the potentially damaging effect of becoming condensate (water or moisture) if the temperature is cooler. Moisture is what mold spores need to thrive. Once they are established the colony can bloom and spread rampantly and unchecked out of sight. The health and safety hazards are well documented. A better solution for an exhaust for the portable air-conditioning unit to the outside is through the window. Open the window and measure the dimensions (L x W). Increase these numbers enough so that a piece of plywood overlaps  and fills the edges of the window opening. Cut a hole enough so that the exhaust vent can go through.


Should I seal, waterproof a concrete basement floor before painting? What is the best sealer/waterproofer to put on a basement floor that I just want to paint.  New construction, no water problems, but washer & drier & water heater are in basement and add to moisture in the air.

I'd suggest one of two options:

Epoxy paint (typically labeled as 'garage sealer')
Acid Stain and seal

I much prefer the look of stained concrete to painted concrete, but that's obviously a personal choice. We stained our concrete basement floor when we finished it and sealed it with a off-the-shelf concrete sealer.


What product should I use to adhere pavers to an old concrete sidewalk? We want to 'dress' up an old concrete sidewalk with pavers, but don't know if we should adhere them with mortar or some type of adhesive material.  Which method would be the most durable in the long run?

I have never tried to adhere pavers to a sidewalk, but can't say I wouldn't recommend it. Instead I would install paver edging along the edges of the sidewalk and set the pavers in between them. Then I would fill in between the pavers in with polymeric sand to lock them in.

Paver edging:


Is there a shower drain pipe in this picture? I'm certain the 3" pipe on the left is the toilet drain (it is about 12" form the wall and has a rounded cap on it). I'm guessing the shorter 2" capped pipe on the right, up against the wall, is the vanity drain. Then there is a 3.5" pipe on the bottom right that has a plug that looks like it's screwed in, but is actually not screwed in (it pops straight out). From what I understand, this is definitely not for the shower and is most likely a cleanout. Looking down it, I can see the water go by as my wife flushes the toilet up stairs. This seems like an odd place to put a cleanout, given the location of, what I believe is, the vanity drain. Also, I think the pipe that goes to the ceiling in the center of the picture is the vent stack. There appear to be larger pipes that come down the wall further to the left that I believe is the main drain that runs under this set of pipes.

Here's a photo (click for full size):

So, 3 questions:

Is that 2" pipe most likely for the vanity?
If so, does this mean I'll be tying in to the vertical pipe for a dry vent, although there is no roughed in horizontal pipe pointing at the 2" drain?
Is that horizontal pipe pointing to the left a vent pointing to where the shower is intended to be located (as in that is the dry vent for the shower)?

A shower drain needs a trap, so check under the cap on the left to see if there's a trap or a straight drain. If it's straight, then your assumptions are likely right that it's a toilet and the other one is a clean-out (fix that cap, you don't want sewer gases getting it). If you don't have a shower drain here, then I'm guessing it's only roughed in for a half bath.

I don't imagine the 2" would be anything other than a vanity drain.

With the "vent," I'm left wondering if it's really a drain since I see a clean-out installed on it. I'd recommend tracing that line up the walls, as best you can, to verify it really is a vent.

As for where the horizontal line is going to the left, perhaps a washer dryer, or perhaps the plumber screwed up the T and it should be pointing to the right for the sink. It's hard to tell from here.


Is it advisable to paint interior walls with a sprayer? We just purchased a house and before moving in we want to paint all the rooms: 4 bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and family room (2000 sft home). Being we want to be as efficient as possible I had looked into using a power sprayer. I've read both pros and cons on doing this so hoping to seek some answers from people here that have done this before.

So, using a sprayer inside, yes or no? If yes, what tips and precautions would you suggest?

Pro: Quick TO PAINT. ONLY.

Con: you have to mask everything, but EVERYTHING, you don't want covered in paint. Floors, windows, toilets, sinks, outlets, switches, lights, the works.

Con: not good if you want more than one color, or yet more masking needed.

Apartment complexes that paint everything white and replace the carpets (and nearly everything is carpeted) afterwards find them "efficient" - most other people get the whole job done a lot faster with a roller and brushes.


Need help identifying materials needed to replace rotted and damaged wood Need the names of materials or any suggestions as to what I should do.

Underneath the drip-edge is the Fascia board. This is usually 1 x 4 inch stock (looking at your photo).Fascia board can be of any variety of wood or composite although Pine can be painted to protect it from the elements, Redwood and other weather resistant wood species can be used to increase longevity.
Below the Fascia is a Trim molding. This is sometimes used to close large gaps between framing and/or finish pieces or to add more detail to the structure.
Under the Trim is the siding (aluminum or vinyl). The vertical trim piece is missing. It is installed to cover the ends of the horizontal siding and neaten their appearance.
Beside the siding the doors weatherstripping is thrashed and should be repaired or replaced.


How much power do LED smart bulb wireless control systems consume when the light is turned off? I've been shifting to LED light bulbs due to the energy savings but I've a question about the new smart bulbs that are controllable via Alexa etc.

These need to be kept "on" via the switch for them to respond to Alexa / Google etc. So what's the parasitic consumption and does it anywhere close to kill the energy savings advantage?

I mean say I use a smart LED bulb for 6 hours a day then during that time period the energy savings of LED kick in. But during the remaining 18 hours of the day when the light is  in an "off" state but yet the smart bulb is essentially energized what is the power consumption? Somehow that does not seem to be reported anywhere. Is it negligible say compared to the 10 W LED "on" state consumption?

Any data?

Clarification: This isn't about being green for greens sake. If the power consumption is only a fraction of a Watt I've no interest in saving it.  My question was mainly with the intention of figuring out whether it is a fraction of a Watt.

The specs are out there, just not always so easy to find. For example, one Philips Hue is rated at 9.5W with max. standby of 0.2W. (Click "The bulb" on the right side under Technical Specifications).

Using this bulb as an example, if it actually uses the full 0.2W all the time, 18H x 365D x 0.2W = 1,314 Wh per year. If your electricity costs 0.10/kWh, that's 13 cents per year for the 18 hours of standby vs. $2.08 for the 6 hours of light.


How do I improve the drainage of this grass driveway? I've got a long grass side-yard which doubles as a driveway for both my residence and the ally behind my house. After a few heavy rainstorms here in Southeastern North Carolina (read: business as usual), the end of the driveway has lost all of its grass due to standing water and vehicle traffic.

Fast forward a year and the driveway has turned into a sand pit, with no hope of improving on its own. Currently I shovel the sand back into the pit from the street about every other month.

As far as improving it, I do not have any easy place to run a pipe to drain it. I've considered adding gravel to the end of the driveway, but I'm not sure how to make that look "classy". I've seen various gravel/grass retaining systems, but I'm not sure how effective it would be if I can't solve the excess. drainage.

I can't see how I could incorporate a drain either, as everything slopes to the end of the drive. Here are some illustrations of the slopes I have to deal with. The X's mark low points.

Another consideration is extending the mulch bed to the rear of the house, with bushes and flowers, to provide some natural absorption capacity for runoff coming from the house-side. I've also considered adding some kind of "lip" to the end of the driveway in order to encourage the sand to stay in the pit, but I don't think that would do anything in the long run.

Given this layout, what sort of drainage options are available? Keep in mind I likely would not be allowed to pave anything (Historic District).

If it's heavily driven on, it's likely extremely compacted, which only increases the water run-off and retention (since it can't properly drain anywhere).

can you use gravel? A gravel driveway would likely be the easiest solution.

Barring that, you could look at using a grid 'pavement' system:

It lets you plant grass without the turf having to take the brunt of the vehicle weight, so it remains porous.


How do I repair laminate damage on a kitchen drawer? The heat from our oven has caused significant damage to the laminate coating on a drawer and a cupboard door, is there a way to repair this type of damage or do i just have to replace it?

It may be possible to repair, but depending on the underlying material, I would take different approaches.

If it's particleboard, your best bet is trying to patch it with veneer.  You can find sheets (for bigger patches) online, or banding at most big box stores.  The main problems here are matching the current laminate and applying the patch so it isn't obvious.  Some tips:  Make sure the surface is clean and ready to take the patch, and try to make the patch as "un-square" as possible, so it doesn't stand out.  Tracing paper and a lot of patience are required.

If it's plywood, I would refinish the cabinet.  If the laminate problem is from heat, it's going to occur again after the patch.  You can apply the same veneer patch method to plywood (it's easier), but this will likely be a recurring problem and you might look into a different cabinet finish or a higher quality laminate.


Do I need to brace joists after removing basement ceiling? I'm about to take out the lath & plaster ceiling in the basement of my 1908 house (I'm hiring it out; I know how bad the mess is). Main reasons for doing this are to get access to wiring and allow me to insulate.

This is in Iowa, not a seismic zone. The basement is unfinished except for this ceiling, and I'm inclined to keep it that way for a while so we can so some remodeling upstairs.

After taking out the ceiling, should I add braces to the 2x8 joists? I'm pretty sure there are none at this time, and I'd think there is a structural element to the ceiling that keeps the joists stable.

Is there any way to know whether I need braces, apart for listening for ominous creaks? :-\

I think the terms you want are blocking or bridging or cross bracing: connecting adjacent floor joists together to keep them from twisting and warping.  This common, even code mandated, in new construction.  In seismic zones these can be necessary to prevent racking of the floor in an earthquake:

Chances are you already have these in your 1908 structure.  Removing the lathe ceiling will reduce total bracing somewhat, and increase potential for twisting.  But I rather think that after 100 years the joists are hard, dry and have done whatever twisting they are going to do.  In new construction, often done with wet lumber, twisting is a far greater issue.

I'd question the need to remove the old plaster and lathe.  As long as the knob & tube wiring is under-amped there is no technical conflict with blow-in insulation (there may be a code conflict, relevant or not for you).  And that's far easier, and far less messy.  Wireless technology can be used to achieve certain electrical goals without new wires.


What caulk to use for basement leaks at cove joint where floor meets the wall? Polyurethane, silicone, or latex-based Drylok? I noticed a small moist patch of the floor near a radon mitigation system. However, I suspect that it has little to do with the radon system but was due to failed caulking at the cove joint, as there seems to be dirt in a small segment of the caulking.
A recent heavy rain likely raised the water table so high that even though our sump pump worked properly, there was still a small amount of water seeping in.
Is my assessment right? If so, what is a good caulk chemistry to use?
There are suggestions such as
Quikrete polyurethane sealant,
silicone caulk,
latex-based Drylok waterproofer.
Updated: A picture of the sump pump. The sump pit is 19 inch in diameter and pretty deep, but the float makes the pump to operate only between a limited depth (as you can see from the water marks in the picture).

Water should never come up from below the slab.  If water is coming up then your sump pump is undersized and not handling either the influx of ground water or the rain and influx of ground water.  The sump pump should have a high level alarm.  If the water ever gets anywhere near the bottom of the slab the alarm should be going off.
You aren't going to be able to turn your basement slab into a boat bottom if water is that high in the water table then water will wick up through the porous concrete slab or through any number of penetrations or cracks.  You might want to seal the crack to prevent radon / water moisture from entering your basement in that case I'd go for the quikrete product.


How to fill hole in slab after installing new closet flange The plumber broke up some of the slab, removed an old cast iron Y and put in a new elbow and closet flange. He left back filling and patching the slab to me (my choice). The edge of the hole is irregular and chiseled at an angle.

My question is what material do I back fill with? Sand, pea stones, cracked gravel? My first thought is tamped sand to support the new piping. How deep do I then want to pour concrete? 4 inches? 6 inches?

The hole is about 2' x 3'. The slab is below grade - there is just dirt below there. The house is 100 years old.

This is what I ended up doing after some research and opinion asking:

Chisel all the loose concrete edges so there is an undercut. This prevents the patch in the slab from rising. Backfill with sand. As you put the sand in moisten it and tamp it down. Make sure the piping is well supported and that the closet flange is level. Keep adding sand until it matches just below the bottom of the existing slab. Mix concrete and pour into the hole, backing it under the undercut and ensuring no voids exist. Keep filling until it is slightly higher than the hole and then screed it off.

So far it looks okay although I think my concrete could have been a little wetter.


Fill a crack in the granite countertop I have granite countertops in the kitchen. Recently I noticed there was a very think crack right where 2 slabs join each other. It is about 2 in away from the edge of the slab.

I'm looking for a solution to seal the crack. I have tried Liquid Nails but is is yellow in color and my granite is almost black with copper speckles.

What would be the best DIY way to seal it permanently and make sure it does not widen?

The typical thing to use when joining the two slabs would be epoxy, clear or tinted to match the color of the stone.

It's been a while since I've used it, so I don't know how easy it is to find 'pourable' epoxy that's intended for repairs after installation.  (we used to use it for making composite structures, as you can spread it really thinly).  You'd likely want to find the thinnest (least viscous) formula if it's a very narrow crack.


Are Steel SIPs Structural? I am from the Caribbean and we have a lot of termites so OSB SIPs are not an option, my question is this, are steel SIPs Structural like OSB SIPs?

SIP = Structural Insulated panels.

EPS = Expanded Polystyrene

OSB = Oriented strand board

thanks!

are steel SIPs Structural like OSB SIPs

Yes. They are generally equivalent as they both do the same job, for the same reason other than they are using different materials, wood based materials vs metal based materials. You can temporarily remove the specific materials from your thinking and everything is about the same, including where support members are located, where and how things are attached, etc. This is all about materials. During the design of the materials, the steel SIPs are designed such that they generally mimic the wood based materials. In reality, the actual numbers are likely different but this is on a smaller scale / fine tuning level


I’m trying to install a wall outlet where 3 Romex cables meet and are twisted together. Which goes where? I’m trying to install an outlet in this junction box I found hidden behind a smoke detector. Inside is what looks like 3 70’s era Romex cables all twisted together by color. (3 blacks 3 whites and the grounds have a weird clamp holding them together.)
There is a light switch directly below this, which is where I think Romex Green probably goes to.
Can someone tell me how I’d wire an outlet with a setup like this?
Should I pull this metal thing off that’s holding all the grounds together?
Should I try and pigtail from each twisted connection to the outlet?

If everything worked correctly before you disconnected everything, then hook your blacks together with an additional 6" piece of black wire. Do the same to the white wires using a 6" piece of white wire. Remove that clamp from the grounds and wire nut then together with a 6" bare or insulated green wire Now take the black pigtail and connect it to either 4 or 5 in your picture. Connect the white pigtail to either the 1 or 2 in your picture. Connect the ground pigtail to 3. Your box fill will be OK with either #14 AWG or #12 AWG.
Oh, and you get a gold star for taking a picture before you disconnected everything.


Troubleshooting a circular saw that quit working I have a circular saw that quit working for no obvious reason.

I cut a board and sat the saw down to get another board.

When I tried to cut the next board, the saw wouldn't work. Pull the trigger and nothing happens.

Is a circular saw DIY repairable? If so, where would I start looking?

EDIT

Sorry, here is what I've tried.

Verified outlet has power.
Removed blade and blew out all debris (doesn't work with blade out either).
Jiggled the cable.  :)

Here's a first-stab at a troubleshooting guide:

With the unit unplugged and/or the battery removed:

Visually inspect the tool...

Is anything potentially jamming a mechanism?
Are the air vents clogged?
Has the unit been exposed to too much dust, ash, water and/or fine sawdust?
Is the case discolored or cracked at any spot?
On the power cord, is the insulation cracked at any point or is one or more strain-reliefs damaged or missing (especially where the cord enters the tool)?
Are the plug contacts reasonably straight and untarnished?
Is a fuse or reset button present?  Is it blown or popped out?
Was the tool used until it might have become too hot?  Many tools have a safety, over-temperature shutoff; wait an hour for it to reset.
Is the safety switch/lock, if present, installed and/or on?
If the unit came with a grounded plug, be sure that it's undamaged and that the power plug really is a properly wired grounded outlet.  Use one of those circuit checkers you can get for $2.
Has an oily, greasy, or varnishy fluid dripped or oozed out of any part of of the unit?  Grease could indicate bearing failure.  Other oozings would point to catastrophic motor damage, or sometimes electronics failure or starting capacitor failure.

Does the tool rotate/reciprocate relatively normally when moved by hand?
Does the the power switch feel normal?  Usually a busted switch will feel "off" (Pardon the pun.)
If you are comfortable with an ohmmeter, you can use it to do basic checks on the cord and switch.  Note that it is possible for a circuit to look okay with the meter and still be bad under load -- or for control electronics to be bad.

With the unit powered:

Does the motor hum or smoke when turned on? (Of course, Immediately switch it back off if it does this.)
Does a circuit breaker trip?
Do you feel an electric shock?
Does the motor arc excessively?
Any unusual noises? Humming, or squealing?

If the visual inspection is failed, it should be obvious what to do.

For a damaged cord, replace it. Do not attempt to repair it.
If the case is plastic and is discolored anywhere, it has likely degraded to the point that the tool is either unsafe or it's just not worth repairing.  Some uniform case discoloration due to age and UV exposure can be okay -- as long as the case is not also cracked or brittle.

If the switch feels funny and/or nothing happens when it is turned on, then it could well be a busted switch -- which is pretty common.  You can sometimes get replacement switches at a reasonable price.

If the motor arcs excessively (a little visible arcing is normal), the brushes may need replacing.  Do not run the tool if you suspect brushes, you can permanently damage the motor.

If the motor hums or smokes, it's typically one of these problems:

Something is mechanically jammed.
Bad switch.
Bad power cord.
Bad control electronics, if any.
Bad, broken, or burnt internal wiring.
Bad brushes or damaged commutator plates.
Bad starting capacitor (if used).
Bad starting coil.
Improper outlet voltage and/or grounding.


What are my options for getting this mess of cables under control? I’m trying to fix this ugly condition in my old house. I understand that a lot of what’s happening here isn’t code complaint, probably in many more ways than I’m aware of. This picture shows the current condition, mostly is it came with the house (I’ve done some demo on the wall behind as well). I’m trying to fix this mess and looking for guidance from the knowledgeable folks on this forum.
Background:
As you can probably tell from the picture, the electrical panel is surface mounted. The power comes in through a knock out in the back of the panel. For unknown reasons, all of the circuits come out of the side of the panel, which results in the many exposed, face-stapled cables you can see in the picture.
I would like to clean up this mess.
Part 1 - I want to reroute 5 of the NM cables together, through a 2” knock out, so that they run directly into the wall behind the panel.
For Part 1, the 5 circuits are: 2 15 amp circuits (fed by the old metal cables, see upper right of panel. These which will be replaced with 2 14/2 NM cables); 2 15 amp circuits (fed by 2 14/2 NM cables); 1 20 amp circuit (fed by a 12/2 NM cable).
Part 2 - I want to reroute the remaining 7 circuits into a conduit connected to a 2” knock at the bottom of the panel. I’ll use THHN wire in the conduit, which will run to a junction box a short distance from the panel. At the junction box, I’ll connect to the original NM cables pictured and continue into the wall behind.
For Part 2, my 7 circuits are: 2 20 amp circuits (fed by a 12/3 NM cable, 2 hot wires go to 2 separate 20 amp breakers); 1 20 amp circuit (fed by a 12/2 NM cable); 2 paired 40 amp circuits (fed by a 10/3 NM cable, 2 hot wires go to paired 40 amp breakers); 2 paired 15 amp circuits (fed by a 14/2 cable, 2 hot wires go to paired 15 amp breakers); 2 paired 30 amp circuits (fed by a 12/2 cable, 2 hot wires go to paired 30 amp breakers); 1 15 amp circuit (fed by 14/2 NM cable).
My Questions:
By code, am I allowed to route 5 NM cables together and run them through a single 2” knock out?
Am I allowed to run 6 circuits in a single conduit (as long as the conduit is large enough) or is there a maximum number of circuits?
Am I allowed to connect conduit to the bottom of the electrical panel or do I have to connect to the top?
If I use PVC conduit, do I need a separate ground wire for each circuit or can I combine to reduce the total number of wires?
If I use a metal conduit, do i need to include a ground wire?
I would prefer if the new junction box was flush-mounted, but I assume it will need to be surface mounted like the electrical panel. Is there any way to connect conduit to the face of a junction box, rather than to the  side?
By code, how large does my junction box need to be?
I’m somewhat familiar with the NEC professionally, and actually enjoy reading the code. I’m happy to look up code sections if anyone can point me in the right direction and offer some guidance.

I'm much more concerned about the fact that you have split-bus (Rule of Six) panel.  I guess I wouldn't worry if breaker sum <= service rating or at least within 20% of it... the reason we dislike split-bus panels is it's possible to laughably overload a service.   You only have 4 of the 6 breakers in-use, so that helps.
I'm also concerned with breaker spaces, I don't see how to power a house with so few breakers.
Other than that, I love CH panels. Great panels.
A few defects:

The 12/3 cable with shared neutral needs to go to a 2-pole breaker.  This is a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit and must follow those rules

The 10 AWG circuit needs to be breakered 30A not 40A.

The 12 AWG circuit needs to be breakered 20A not 30A.

Tell us more about the last two; rarely certain motor loads qualify for a breaker bump not otherwise allowed.

By code, am I allowed to route 5 NM cables together and run them through a single 2” knock out?

Yes, if you have a proper cable clamp rated for 5 NM cables.  NEC 110.3(B).
That might be a unicorn.

Am I allowed to run 6 circuits in a single conduit (as long as the conduit is large enough) or is there a maximum number of circuits?

Only if the a) length is less than 2 feet...  or b) the conduit is >4 square inch cross section and <20% full.
Otherwise, since you have more than 4 circuits in the conduit,  you must derate #12 wire to 15A, #10 wire to 20A, and #8 wire to 28.5A.
There's a lot of complicated math behind it, but that's the gist. See 310.15(B)(3)(a) and how it interacts with Article 334's derates and the statutory minimums in 240.4(D) and round up/down in 240.4(B).

Am I allowed to connect conduit to the bottom of the electrical panel or do I have to connect to the top?

If the factory provides knockouts, you're allowed to use them.  Other holes, see 110.3(B) "must follow instructions and labeling".
That clause (with 110.2) invokes the UL White Book and its design rules.

If I use PVC conduit, do I need a separate ground wire for each circuit or can I combine to reduce the total number of wires?

Everything you have talked about is NM cable.  You need 1 ground per NM cable.
If you were using wiring methods that entail individual wires, then grounds can be shared.

If I use a metal conduit, do i need to include a ground wire?

Nope, the metal conduit works except for certain flexible types. Assuming, of course, you are working in individual wires such that you could share a ground.

I would prefer if the new junction box was flush-mounted, but I assume it will need to be surface mounted like the electrical panel. Is there any way to connect conduit to the face of a junction box, rather than to the side?

No, because you have to be able to remove the cover without disassembling any part of the building 314.29.
You could flush-mount and then use a box extension to simulate a surface mount, for attaching the first conduit.
What's your fondness for surface mount?  That's been bugging me honestly. My hunch is that your biggest concern is aesthetics.  So why go to all this trouble? Why not just build a false wall in front of all those cables which you find so ugly?  Rip some 2x4's to give you the correct spacing at each location, then lay some drywall across it and Bob's your uncle.  You're allowed to hide cables. You could bring the false wall up so it's near flush with the panel.

By code, how large does my junction box need to be?

NEC 314.16 I believe. You need 2 cubic inches per #14 wire, 2.25 per #12 wire, and up to 5 per #6 wire. Grounds count as 1/4 of a wire (rounding up).


adding an GFCI outlet off an existing outlet. 120v two wire with ground The line is a dedicated line from breaker with 15Amp breaker...running a computer.  I want to pull a line off with GFCI outler for a Rinnai Tankless water heater.  I am told the WH only pulls about 70w.  Can I do this and what is the proper wiring diagram, please?

The existing outlet probably has another set of screw contacts specifically for a downstream outlet. If it does not, you should replace it with a newer outlet.

http://www.how-to-wire-it.com/images/296xNx2-outlets-in-series.jpg.pagespeed.ic.vFuUvogAxu.jpg

Make sure you hook up the ground to the new GFCI.

I'm gonna guess that if you ask the manufacturer or an electrician they will suggest or require that you add a new run from your panel with a dedicated breaker.  But as a DIY'er, I would run it as you said from an existing run.


How can I build a fence next to existing neighboring fences? I would like to fence in my back yard.  Nothing super fancy, just a black metal fence like you see everywhere.  I got some quotes from some contractors and they wanted $6k+ (!!) to build the fence.  I was shocked at the estimate prices given that my neighbors on both sides have already built fences, so I'd only have to do the back of my lot plus a little on the sides with a gate on one side (see dotted red lines below).

How hard would this be to do myself? I don't want/need to run a fence along the sides, so how would I go about integrating with my neighbor's fences?  I didn't think it was possible to set the end posts right next to their fence as it would disrupt their fences, though I can't tie into their fences as they aren't mine (and presumably aren't on my property).

Also, what is the best way to match up the fences, given the height disparity?

I would speak with both neighbors before installing anything.

Then, I would start by establishing how close to the property line the neighbor's fences are, and set end posts about the same distance inside the line.  You could then add  a small "make-up" piece to fill the gap, or if the posts are nearly against each other, perhaps a decorative panel, trellis, or similar could be used to cover the small gap.

This way, if a future owner on either side decides to remove their fence, the integrity of your fence will not be affected, and the corners will be in the right place to add a run down the your side of the side property lines.


Problems with reassembling Bosch POF 1200 AE router So in my infinite wisdom, while removing one of the springs from my  Bosch POF 1200  AE router I accidentally took the router motor out of the housing itself.
When I removed it I heard click, click and thought nothing of it until I tried to reinstall the motor into the housing, and after a bit of investigation it looks like there's some... brushes or something blocking the top bearing going all the way in.

From the pictures I took and from the online instructional diagram it seems that they sit in the brass-looking areas either side, however my fingers and pliers aren't long enough to get in there and reseat them.
I did manage to use a pencil to navigte and one into the brass seat, but there is some sort of spring mechanism that forces it out; I'm asssuming this to make these brush-things contact the router motor to make it run shrugs.

Can anybody help me make sense of this and how to fix it such that I can successfully reassemble my router?

I usually find a way to hold the brushes back in the holder against the spring pressure.
Either a wire loop tying each brush back or some brush holders have holes to insert a pin through - there can be many options to consider, but there has to be a method to assemble it.
Once the armature is back in position then remember to release the brushes.


How to remove radiator pipe and value? We just had central air installed and the contractor removed the radiators.  However, the pipe and valves are left over sticking out of the floor upstairs.  I tried using a plumber's wrench to at least get the valve off but it would not budge.  How can I remove them?  Keep in mind that the house was built in the 1930's and removing the whole pipe would involve an asbestos abatement.  I rather keep and encapsulate the holes after removing the ends of the pipe with plaster.

I used a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut though my cast iron pipe.  It's $60 if you don't already have one, but they come in handy. You could also use a angle grinder with a metal blade, but that's louder, sparkier and smells more.


Door weatherstripping: is this slot a kerf or something else? I recently moved to a new place, and the front door is a little drafty in parts. It looks like the previous owner put white EPDM rubber foam tape over a hard but flexible vinyl strip that was inserted by the side of the door stop.

In the second picture, I pulled that vinyl insert out. Is the slot it goes into a kerf for weatherstripping, like I can buy something like this from home depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-in-x-7-ft-White-Vinyl-Clad-Foam-Kerf-Door-Seal-DS7W-25/100205412 to replace it? Or is the slot something totally different, and that vinyl strip is not meant to be removed?

Wasn't really clear to me why the previous owner put foam tape on it instead of replacing it...the foam tape still leaves a gap and does nothing to stop the drafts.

Yes, you are correct that the slot may be used for insertion of kerf-type weather-stripping, either for the Z-compression-foam shown in your link or a simple "flexible bulb" plastic edge that is positioned in the gap by the blade edge in the slot and compressed when the door is closed.


Is updating/avoiding this splice worth it, and if so, what's the easiest way to plug the hole? An outlet was discovered to be midway through a segment of unsafe (too thin gauge for circuit, no ground) wiring. Let's refer to point A as a junction to the rest of the circuit (which is all good to go), point B as this outlet, and point C as an important outlet at the end of this branch. There's nothing else on the branch between A & C.

Because the outlet at point B was hidden by furniture and not used, and there's already ~8 other outlets on this circuit (maybe more), it's been decided that this outlet could simply be removed. To most rapidly get rid of the unsafe wiring between point A & C, new wire was pulled through each end of the gang box and spliced, thus completing the circuit with new wiring. However, this leaves an unnecessary splice in a gang box at point B, and the box itself seems a little unsafe to me (it is a not very secure/stable, old work box).

To reduce electrical risks, it seems to me it's worth it (though not high priority) to re-run a length of wire from point A to C directly with no splice, and in the process remove the old work box. This is not that difficult and since splices and rickety junction boxes are some of the major electrical hazards as I understand it, it's worth upgrading: it will take 10 feet of 12/2 NM, pull part way through from point C to B and then pull the rest of the way through from B to A and get it all hooked up.

When all that is said and done, the rickety gang box will be empty and unneeded. Easy enough to remove if that's best, it's practically falling out of place now. What's the easiest way to plug the hole? Do I need to add drywall + joint compound + paint, or can I just put a gang box cover on the empty box? Guess I'm trying to confirm if it makes sense to rewire the splice out of existence, and if there's any problem putting a cover on an empty box or even somehow putting a cover on an otherwise open but discrete hole in the wall.

In my opinion it's not worth the effort and cost to re-run the wire. As long as the inline splice is properly connected at B, e.g. using proper wire nuts, it is not considered a major hazard. Even if you "improve" it by a wire directly from A to C, it is likely you have other splices in your other circuit anyway.

In terms of cover plate vs patching drywall, that's totally up to you. If it's behind furniture, why not simply choose the easier way.


Water flowing continuously in toilet My toilet bowl is leaking water continuously. See video here: https://youtu.be/khD7VKbWoTo

I cleaned the flapper and put it back, and it doesn't seem to be the issue. Even if I hold the flapper down, the water continues to flow. Any suggestions on what I should try?

That flapper needs to be replaced completely - good news! It's a very cheap part.

Turn the water off to the toilet, remove the flapper, and take it with you to any home parts store of your choice. Pick a flapper of the same size (most universal will work). Once you get a new one in there - turn the water back on.

With a new one it'll seal properly and stop flushing continuously.


Is this a bleeder? Why won't it close? In trying to repair a pipe I went to empty my baseboard heating system, and so I tried to open what I thought was a bleeder.  It didn't seem to make any difference, and now after unbolting it it will not thread back in.

Is this actually a bleeder?  Either way, any idea why it won't close?

It's a balancing valve, and you have probably got the guts of it confused with excessive unscrewing. You may be able to sort them out if you undo the BIG nut and take them out. if not, a heating professional can.

The purpose of this type of valve is to balance flow between heating loops, so it will also need to be re-adjusted once reassembled (or replaced.) The lack of a handle is intended to keep it from being fiddled with by the average homeowner, as it is a "set and forget" device if adjusted properly in the first place.

Hint for the future - bleeders don't face down.


Do I have a Bad GFCI Circuit Breaker? It looks like there has been some bad wiring done in the old house we just bought. Yesterday, I was installing a low-wattage LED nightlight in a 3-gang box on a GFCI circuit, when the whole circuit lost power. I cannot find a reason for the loss of power. I rewired the way it was when I started, but that did not fix the problem.
This circuit has a GFCI breaker. There also are (or were) three GFCI outlets on its circuit, two of which have no load. The one with a load is outside and I believe protects an additional outside outlet. I read that the circuit breaker is all that is needed and that additional GFCI outlets are not only not necessary but can be a problem, especially as they age. So, I am replacing the GFCI outlets with standard outlets. Doing so, however, has not helped.
I suspect that the GFCI breaker is faulty. When I switch it on, there is no power. When I test for power between its hot connection and neutral, there is no power. When I press the test button, nothing happens.
I can replace a breaker (I think) but I am not sure if that is what should be done.

I gather you have the panel cover off?
First, you cannot test any GFCI device while anything is plugged into it or on the LOAD terminals.  All wires must be removed from the LOAD terminals.
Once that’s done, we can now do a clear test of the GFCI.  For a breaker, turn it all the way off, then all the way on.  Don’t try to go straight from “tripped” to “on”, that will not work.  Once it is on, then you press the TEST button and see if you get a trip.  Then to OFF then to ON, to reset.
If the GFCI breaker responds correctly when you do that, then the breaker is not faulty.  It is doing its job, tripping due to a fault in wiring or devices. Now you divide and conquer.
The trick with “divide and conquer” with GFCI is that you must isolate BOTH hot AND neutral.  Simply breaking hot is not enough.
You must also be very careful in boxes that have multiple circuits in them.  For instance, sometimes a multi-light switch box has circuit 1’s power coming into it to run some switches, and then a switch loop for a light from circuit 2.  Goober says “I want to put a smart switch on that switch-loop”, so uses the always-hot and switched-hot from the switch loop, and steals neutral from circuit 1.  GFCIs won’t tolerate that.


Reducing the water pressure reduction? My house has a pressure reducing valve.  I wish I had a bit more water pressure. Can I adjust this thing?

Probably you can. The picture is indeed very blurry. You'll need a biggish screwdriver, and a wrench. You hold the screw steady with the screwdriver while loosening the nut, then turn the screwdriver a bit (don't go crazy) and then hold it and retighten the nut. Having a gauge installed and checking the pressure when nothing is drawing water, but also when things are will give some insight as to how well it's working (sometimes "low perceived pressure" and "PRV not working as it should" are related.)


Do I also need to apply thinset to my Subway tiles or is it enough to just put it on the wall? Subway tile question regarding a bathtub surround.

Do I need to apply thinset on the back of the tile?
Subway tiles are small, can I just put thinset on the wall and apply the tiles?

Thank you

Back-Buttering shouldn't be needed. But, the best determination is to set a tile & then pry it off. You should have a nice even smush of Thin-set that covers the whole back of the tile. If you don't get full coverage, then you can try it again with a bigger notch trowel...on a fresh clean tile. If that doesn't do it, then you'll want to back-butter every tile.


How can I avoid sap seep in my woodworking projects? I recently started getting into more DIY projects around the house and decided to make a fairly straight forward desk for my computers and monitors.  This is a 3x6' desk with black metal pipes for legs.

Being my first hands on project like this, I've made plenty of mistakes and gleaned some valuable lessons from the process.  However, I've noticed that the wood seems to sweat a sticky substance.  I can only assume it's some sort of sap or pitch.

The desk is made of Douglas Fir planks I picked up at Home Depot.  I used the desk before doing more with it and I noticed this early on but thought that sanding it down, staining, and sealing it would resolve the problem.  So far, it hasn't.

Is this normal for the type of wood I picked?
Can I prevent the sweating without scraping the entire top of the desk?  If so, how?
What's a better alternative to Douglas Fur for a project like this?

Additional information:

I am using AFM SafeCoat, Naturals Clear Penetrating Oil as my sealer.  I wanted something that was food grade and this seemed like a good choice.

Yes it's normal to hit pitch pockets in douglas fir. You can remove it by wiping it with mineral spirits but that's only going to clear the surface and more will weep out; you could be fighting it for years. Because of the pitch (among other reasons), doug fir is not the best choice for furniture. If the wood is prepped correctly by sufficient kiln drying it is fine, but sufficient is often an unknown quantity. You are better off choosing hardwoods like oak or maple ( among others).

I do not know how mineral spirits will interact with your finish. Also mineral spirits can be harsh and if you are sensitive to chemicals you can look into odorless mineral spirits which might help.


Kenmore Elite Refrigerator Door Pinched / Broken Wires TLDR; What is the best way to splice wires together that will be moving?

I purchased a Kenmore Elite 106.51773510 refrigerator in March 2017. I had a few issues with the ice maker during my first year of ownership that were covered under warranty (turned out to be alignment issues and NOT an icemaker issue).  Last week, I was surprised (and frustrated) to find out that the ice maker stopped working again. I investigated the issue and was able to locate the root cause of the problem. The wiring harness that comes from underneath the freezer door and goes up through the door and connects to the icemaker (and other components) is broken. See attached photo for reference.

I was able to conclude on the root cause of the failure for this wiring harness. When the freezer door is opened and closed, the wiring harness is pinched and folded over. Over time it has broken (think bending a metal hanger over and over again until the metal fatigues and breaks).

At this point in time, I have identified that the wiring hardness is NOT available for purchase and the only way to repair this failure is to replace the door which costs about $1200. The wiring harness is permanently installed in the door. But replacing the door with the SAME wiring harness will result in the same failure over time.

So what I am looking for here is some assistance on fixing this issue. The only economical solution that I can come up with is to splice the wires together. But when splicing these wires together, should I solder the wires or butt splice them. When I complete the repair, I am going to have to extend the wires underneath the refrigerator in order to eliminate the pinch point. Any suggestions or feedback is much appreciated.

Update 2019.05.01: I have purchased the following materials from a local electronics store for repair.

This is the plan.

Stagger cut the wires (to allow for space for the butt joints)
Complete butt joints on staggered cuts
Shrink wrap each wire
Shrink wrap the whole wire
Re-route the wires to eliminate the pinching

There are a lot of splice methods, but most of them aren't going to allow the wire to flex and will probably fail very soon if they are flexed.  For the splice method, I say whatever is easiest for you to accomplish in the limited space available is best.

What I will recommend is that you make two splices and leave solid wire in the area that needs to be flexed.  In other words, make a cut in the wires above and below the area that needs to be flexed and make your repairs in two spots that don't need to flex.  Use a wire made for flexibility - even if you have to use the same color for all connections.  Finding a good flexible wire is better than trying to match colors.


Vintage help: How to install a 1902 pedestal sink My wife found this gorgeous vintage china Trenton Potteries sink she'd like to install in a bathroom. It's big (32"X 22") and we're trying to figure out how to support it. It has no holes in the back for wall-hanging. We haven't been able to find this exact one in any old catalogs, but it looks like these sinks were often sold with the option of using legs and/or brackets as well as a pedestal. I've looked at vintage sink brackets that looks like the ones that were used at the time (see example in photo) but can't figure out how they would attach to the sink. I've also read that, back then, these sinks were sold with some sort of metal rod that ran down the pedestal to the floor, but haven't been able to find anything like that now, even on eBay. I've also read that sometimes they just rested on the plumbing (this one looks like it might have had two drains) but our pipes run to the wall. (She'd also like to restore the original drain mechanism, but that's a hope for another post.) We'd like to avoid using legs if at all possible. Anyone with vintage pedestal sink experience have any ideas?

It appears that your sink is not set up for a cleat/wall bracket but judging on the ring of porcelain on the bottom it is for a pedestal.

I know the boss would prefer not to use legs but if you show her this web page. (Not affiliated). she may find something to her standards.

I did install a similar sink on wall brackets, the ones you show
do NOT seem to have a good solid way to attach to structure in the wall.

You could check with vintage plumbing supplier or habitat restore if, you have one, for a pedestal.


Material for water feed line on furnace humidifier. Latex required? The water feed line on my furnace humidifier that connects to the pad started leaking, so I need to replace it.  The original was made latex 1/4" OD tubing, but the store doesn't have that size and the latex tubing they do have is MUCH more expensive than vinyl tubing.

My questions:

Is it a problem to use Vinyl for water tubing that will end up circulating in my air?
Will Vinyl tubing work for my situation?  Was there a reason the original had latex tubing?
Do I need to be concerned about the temperature the tubing may reach being next to my furnace?
Aren't there a lot of types of vinyl? Do I have to look for particular properties of my specific vinyl to make sure it would work for my situation? Or would any vinyl do?

If it helps you can see a diagram of my HE220 humidifier and you can see the tubing on page 3 which also connects at the top of the pad.

I called Honeywell about the issue and they said both Latex and Vinyl were fine to use for the humidifier water feed tube.


Basement supporting wall header increase We are finally in the process of finishing our basement after a number of years. I have a load bearing wall that has a header for a doorway, however, we are looking to have a more open hallway. I originally designed this wall to be part of a closet in the office (orignal layout), however, I'm thinking now that I should open the hallway up a little so the hallway isn't as crammed (new layout). See attached floorplan designs.

original layout:

new layout:

Questions:

Should I leave it as a closet or open up the hallway? what would you do?
Do I need to seek expertise of a structural engineer before extending the header?
What is the max span that a header can take load? I'm going to check my local codes. Measuring it out, I believe that the header would take on 4 more joist loads and the  total span would be around 6'8".

thanks for looking at my post,

cheers.

Eric

What state are you in? You should check out the span tables for your local code. Generally, for that span outlined in the drawings above, you should be safe with triple 2 x 12s, providing you use grade no. 1 lumber. A less conservative header size might be possible, though. A laminated beam is also a valid option. These codes take climate and real life loads into consideration and they are generally VERY conservative -- for good reason.

Here are example span tables, see page 2:

http://www.southernpine.com/media/SS_7-12L.pdf

Also, I see you only have one jack stud on each side of the header. There really should be two.


How do I connect a polyethylene water supply line to my refrigerator? I have a Kenmore refrigerator (model 53552200), and want to connect a 1/4" polyethylene line for the incoming water.  I'm guessing the connection is something similar to right portion of the following image, but want to make sure before I go to hardware store:
(i.e. brass compression nut, brass tube insert and with a plastic "sleeve"; although 1/4" in my case). Does this sound right?

When tightening it, what is a good rule of thumb to avoid over- and under-tightening the connection?

Update / secondary question: I bought this Watts Ander-Lign Compression Nut from the store, which says it is compatible with plastic tubing. Does a nut like this need a plastic sleeve? If not, would a different compression nut---that is compatible with a plastic sleeve---be preferred?  NOTE: the picture above is NOT the Watts Ander-Lign compression nut I have---I just needed a picture of a plastic sleeve to aid my question

update  2: I haven't found a definitive answer on this yet, so any help you can provide is greatly appreciated :-)

Watts claims their Ander-Lign fitting is universal and specifically says it can be used with plastic tubing carrying water.

The fact that they are using an insert makes the fitting stronger than the usual water filter/frig water supply fittings which are simple "push in" type fittings.

Here's an example of the other style:
http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/parts/fittings/jg-whitepoly-male-connector.htm

I think you should be fine.


Remove tv plaform on metal guides from old tv armoire I have an armoire originally used to hold an old style TV.  I want to remove a platform that was to hold the TV.
The platform is wood and on metal, ball bearing, guides so that the tv could be pulled out and rotated.  I can't find any release hinges/levers, and there are no exposed screws.  The guides are not unlike drawer guides  so  I assume there must be some way to release the guides.
Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated.

If there are no release tabs on the slides edges(that are usually pressed to separate the two parts than you may have to remove the wood shelf that is attached to the slides.
Extend the shelf out fully and look underneath where it is attached to the slides. Look in the center of the slide track for Philip head screws going into the wood.
Also while the shelf is extended, look at the lower slide that attaches to the armoire shelf. Look for screws along the center of the track.
Sometimes the release tabs are not obvious and don't seem like tabs at all. They are usually located at the back of the top (extended/shelf) slide or the front of the lower slide. Usually along the edge on both.
Also look below the compartment where the TV is located. The lower slide may have been bolted through the Armoires' shelf (not likely, but possible).


Unplugging vs running an empty refrigerator We have a community Pea Patch that has 2 older refrigerators that are empty 5 days a week and used to store produce on 2 of those days.  Does it take less energy to leave them running for those 5 days, and is it better for the refrigerator, than to uplug it for that time? I think they should be unplugged, but the person in charge doesn't.

If we were to fill them with jugs of water on the empty days, it would need to be re-cooled after the two days of use.

I think unplugging the refrigerators will both save electricity and reduce wear on the compressors, although I agree with others that if possible you should measure the usage, in part to decide whether any (possibly small) savings is worth the effort.

Energy Savings

Empty refrigerators are less efficient, since the compressor needs to cycle on and off more frequently due to relatively low thermal mass. If you unplugged the fridge when you weren't using it, I suspect when you plugged it back in it would only take a few hours to cool down. Under normal usage a fridge will have its compressor running about 1/3 of the time, so this will be a meaningful savings. (The fridge uses the vast majority of its electricity running the compressor, so how long it's running for is a good proxy for electricity consumption.)

Wear on Refrigerator

Cycling of the fridge compressor on and off is a primary cause of wear, so unplugging the fridge should be a benefit in that respect. Plus there will be total fewer runtime hours. I don't see how unplugging the fridge for days at a time could possibly damage it. (If you were unplugging it twice a day and forcing it to warm up to room temperature and the cool down, that would be another story.)

Other Considerations

When the fridges are off you will need to make sure they don't get moldy or develop smells. The easiest thing would be to leave the doors open so any moisture can evaporate. Leaving a dry hand towel over the door can help ensure the door doesn't close accidentally.
If you have the means to measure the electricity savings, I would do so. You may find that the savings are small and not worth the effort.
Water jugs will not help you if you are unplugging the fridge, in fact they will make it worse. The purpose of the water is to retain cold and stabilize the temperature. If you let the water warm up to room temperature with the rest of the fridge you will just be creating more work for the compressor when you plug it back in. On the other hand, if you decide to keep the keep the fridge plugged in all the time, leaving jugs might help a bit (but only if you leave them in all the time... do not remove them).
Do you really need two fridges at all? Maybe a cooler and some cold packs could supplement any overflow those 2 days/week?
Old fridges can be big power hogs. I'm sure you could save a lot of electricity with a new model (maybe a single bigger one). Whether a new fridge could pay for itself in a reasonable amount of time depends on a number of factors, but it might be something to consider.


GFCI with no loads attached and no downstream outlets trips with power restoration I have recently (purchased 9/18/14) installed several GFCI outlets - Pass & Seymour Legrand - with LED indicating light. I installed three of these - all on separate and dedicated circuits. Upon energizing the breaker(s), every one of the GFCI's tripped when I reset each breaker at the panel. I reset the GFCIs and cycled power at the panel and the same thing happened. At no time did I have a load connected either via the plug-in or to the load side of the GFCI - and I did not wire anything to the line side (except the required leads from the breaker panel box to energize the outlet). Can anyone explain why this is happening - it is not my experience for GFCIs to trip upon power loss and restoration. Thanks.

I discussed this concern with the manufacturer (Pass & Seymour by Legrand) and they were able to provide me with a clear answer. The model number is 1595W3PKCC4 - and per design, upon being energized for the first time, these GFCIs are supposed to trip to test themselves. All subsequent cycling of power is not supposed to cause the GFCI to trip. It was my mistake to not validate my observation before posting my question. I have since cycled the power to these devices and they remain in the untripped state upon power restoration - so all is good. Thanks to you folks for your responses. Pass & Seymour was very helpful.


My kitchen faucet jumps, sputters and stops and squeals when water temperature reaches straight hot Faucet and supply lines are 18 months old.  About a month ago, the faucet started jumping but only when on straight hot water and when the water temperature is probably close to 130 degrees.  It’s one of those newer models with the pull down sprayer.  Right after it jumps and water stops I can hear high pitched squeal.
Is there a washer inside the faucet that maybe softens and expands to restrict flow when it gets to hot?
When it jumps and squeals, I turn it off and immediately turn it back on at still a warm temp but not quite so hot and it works fine.  New Dishwasher on same valve and doesn’t appear to have any issues.

Sounds like the anti-scald feature is working as designed. i.e. it's not SUPPOSED to let you burn yourself with excessively hot water, and the operation is as designed.

Dishwashers are not intended to operate with hands in them, so they normally have no anti-scald feature, and indeed may have a supplementary heater to raise the temperature even more for sanitizing.

Perhaps your hot water temperature has changed slightly, if this "just started happening" after 17 months.


How difficult is it to cut a big (flange) hole in brittle marble tile? How difficult is it to cut a big (flange) hole in brittle marble tile?
I am just asking this question here because, even though I will not be laying my tiles myself, my tile setter is currently overseas and inaccessible yet I am designing the floor tile pattern.

I am using 12" marble tile for the floor. My dilemma is whether to design the pattern so that I have two tiles with cut out semicircles meet around the flange or to have one whole tile with a full circle inside of it go all the way encircling the flange.

I would prefer to be able to do the latter (single tile with a large hole), however, given the material and size, I am not sure if that is possible. I think that the former is certainly possible but from the aesthetic perspective, I would like my pattern to involve one large tile around the flange.

I have heard that marble is really brittle and making fancy cuts is hard.

A diamond hole saw will do the job, use plenty of water and light pressure.

You will do better with a single hole, AFA breakage goes, compared to making 2 edge semi circles.

Update

If we are talking about a toilet flange, there are 2 methods, each with variations, depending on your equipment.

With a tile wet saw, raise and lower the blade such that you cut diameter lines edge to edge.  Rotate the tile 10 degrees and repeat.  Flip the tile over and repeat from below.  Remove teeth with an angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade.  If you are connected to a GFCI outlet, a helper can slowly spritz the cutting with a water bottle.  It will keep the dust to a minimum.  I would recommend a continuous edge (not segmented or stepped) diamond blade for this.  The cheap table type tile wet saws actually excel for this cut, allowing fast and accurate cuts, all from below.
The whole cut can be made with an angle grinder setup described above, you just have to tip the blade at 45 to the surface of the tile and sneak up on the line from the inside of the desired cut out.  With marble you have to go slow and minimize pressure. This method also works nicely for electrical boxes.


New Fan Switch Grounding Cable issues I installed a new switch for a new ceiling fan. For power, I pigtailed the 3 wire cable to my new switch from an existing light switch.

My problem is with the newly installed ground cable.

The 2 existing ground cables are screwed to the metal box at the back, each on their own screw.

What do I do with the 3rd (new) ground cable?

When I connected to either screw at the back of the box (where the other grounds are connected) the breaker pops. If I leave it unconnected the breaker is fine and newly installed switch works the fan.

There is almost certainly a ground leak somewhere. It sounds like you might have a loose wire/bad connection in the fan's electrical connections.  Turn off the breaker and reconnect all the wires in the fan's electrical box.  If this doesn't work, you may need to take the fan down and take all the electrical components apart to inspect... or get a new fan.  It is not safe to run the fan without the ground attached, as the metal parts are likely charged.


What's wrong with my stove? We've got burners that flop between partially-lit states, mainly by starting like

after being on a while, switching to

sometimes some of them do this, and then we stop using them

What's going on?

Electric coils that are that uneven I would replace, sooner rather than later.

I have personally experienced the end of an oven element when one of the "hot spots" burnt through and it was happily arcing away. Fortunately I was in the kitchen and noticed it right away so I could shut things down, as it did not trip the breaker.

I have read of the same thing on a stovetop coil burning a hole through the bottom of a pot.

Fortunately they are generally quite inexpensive. I would replace the whole set, myself.


Distance at bottom of porch railings Is there a standard distance between steps and bottom of porch step railings? What I am referring to is if you measure the distance from a step to the railing above it. The distance I measured was around 10 inches.

The International Code Council says in the International Building Code that a 4" sphere shall not pass through a "guard" for stairs over 30" above finish floor...except for the triangular space formed by the riser, tread and bottom of the guardrail. In which case, it cannot allow a 6" sphere to pass. (There are other exceptions, but none that pertain to your issue.) See Section 1013.4, Exception 2 of the IBC.


Is a threshold drain outside my laundry room and bathroom, draining to daylight, a good idea? We are building out a two-room suite that consists of a full bathroom (tub, sink, toilet) and a full laundry room (washer, sink).
There is one single door that enters into this two room suite.
I think it would be nice to have a threshold/linear drain right at that doorway ... the wainscoating of the tile in these rooms make them like a swimming pool, so the water can only escape at that doors threshold ...
So I am thinking of installing a linear drain that covers the full 32 inches of that doors threshold and draining it to daylight.
Just to clarify - this is not a drain that would see any use under normal circumstances - this is a safety drain in the event that something clogs or overflows or the supply line to the wash machine breaks, etc. - the flow of water is stopped at the threshold of the tile and does not do $50k of damage past that point, It seems like a good idea.
The only thing that nags is that the 2" drain to daylight is a heat sink / source of drafts ... so I was thinking of installing a very sensitive check valve, with a 1/2 PSI crack rating, at the end of this 2" pipe.
But now I have a check valve that might stick ... but I think I can live with that, since check valve malfunctions cause them to stick open, right ?
Is there, in fact, any problem with draining to daylight ?
Would it be better to put in a huge trap, fill it with water, and just refill it if I ever notice a draft ?
Thanks.

I see several problems with your plan:

It may allow mice, insects or other critters to get inside.
If it's below freezing outside, the drain will get blocked with ice.
The check valve (even if it works properly in the first place) will very quickly get clogged with all the debris that gets washed down into the drain.

If you want to have a floor drain, then it should drain to the sewer, not to the outside. I don't know what the building code in your area says about that, but you may want to check. And you don't really need a floor drain. It's nice to have in some settings, like a commercial kitchen or a public bathroom, but it's overkill for residential.


Underlayment question Question..I have a 3/4" wafer board?..Particle board? sub floor..which is laying on laminated joists that are 24" apart..my thoughts were to lay a 1/2" sanded underlayment to that perpendicular to sub floor..staggering any joints,now this is a very small floor just around 106 in length by 53 in width and with the 17.5 tile that's only a 3 tile by 6 tile job and not a single tile cut has to be made ..not a single one..first question with the new 1/2" underlayment it should be glued? not glued? and not screwed to the joists through the sub floor? 3/4" + 1/2" + 1-1/4 inches which is sufficient thickness if the the joists are spaced 16"..but what about if they are like mine 24" apart..I also purchased a Hardie 1/4" backer board the would give me 1-1/2" thickness..is this two much? need to know about not nailing 1/2" underlay to joists...and do I really need the Hardie Backer Board for such a small project? basically it is a kitchenette with a large fridge and an commercial grade ice cream stand that will just sit there and probably never be moved again...please help me with this thank you...SM.

Beef up the floor while you can

With 24's and chip board I would consider cutting the floor and adding purlins in between the joists and replace the floor with plywood. Then I'd go with Schluter underlayment.

you wouldn't need to add this many

www.stratco.com

This is a steel shed floor in the picture but the concept is the same, just with wood.

Then go with double 5/8 offset seams and Schluter. The floor will be thinner and stronger.

If you want to stick with what you have proposed I would glue and screw everything and hope it's not you taking it up down the road.

Really not a single cut? That's amazing.


Need to move concrete slabs to backyard I am building a pizza oven for the backyard and part of the build instructions said to build three concrete slabs (2 that are 47" x 20" x 5.5" and another that is 47" x 29.5" x 5.5"). It asks you to pour the slabs on a flat surface like a garage floor.

I poured them on my garage floors without thinking how the heck I was going to get them to the back yard and up on top of the CMU base that is 5 courses high (so a little over 42 inches high). I have to get them through a fence gate (when removed it leaves a 33" wide clearance side to side.

I was thinking an engine hoist would be great but the orientation of the legs I think would be too wide to get through the gate fence. My next idea was to construct an A frame to lift it onto a sled to transport it to the back and then use the  A frame equipped with a chain fall to bring it higher.

What do you guys think about that approach or do you have another?

I believe the two smaller slabs to be about 450lbs each and the bigger slab to be close to 800lbs.

10 stout men to tip the slabs on edge, then log rollers, Egyptian style. Maybe a bit of ramp to get them up to their final resting place.


Toilet gurgling/ bubbling and backing up on septic OK...had my cleanouts inspected and cleared and septic pumped....all fine. So, it has to be from the septic to the drain fields. Have a probe and know where my line is from the septic the fields and plan on checking the line myself. If that line is cleared then it has to be the fields...right? I dont have any soft spots anywhere around the line or the fields. If I dig out that line, what do I expect? Ahuge clog? Is this line under pressure when I take it off? What does the connection look like at the line/field junction? How will I know I have to replace my drain fields?

TY
RMerritt

How long ago did you have the septic tank pumped out before the toilet started having problems? If the toilet problems persisted after the septic was pumped, then the problem is in the drains to the tank. If the problem returned after the tank refilled there may be a problem with the discharge elbow or fitting and the solids are blocking the outlet. If the problem is from the tank discharge to the field, you may need a contractor to correct the problem.


How does one typically do "Old Work" with metal junction boxes? I am trying to add a light fixture to a room.  I have access to the studs in the wall (new wall being added to the room), but the ceiling is drywalled.  There is no attic access.  Unfortunately, the ceiling is hung from sound isolation bars, which means there are drywall screws poking up into the cavity between the floor joists.  Since I am fishing a wire in this space, it was recommended that I use MC-type wiring to protect the wire from snagging on a screw.

This leads to my problem- I need to install an "old work" style ceiling box, but due to the MC wiring and need to bond the metallic sheath, I need to use a metal ceiling box.  How is this typically done?  I have been unable to find anything in metal similar to those plastic old work boxes with the tabs that flip out.

Look for a "fan" box. they have telescoping arms that expand to secure the box between the ceiling joists. they are designed to hold the weight of a fan, but work well for any heavy fixture.

If your fixture is very light, say under a couple of pounds, simply use a standard metal box with MC clamps and surface ears, and install "hold-it's" on the sides of the box and behind the sheetrock. See   http://meproducts.net/products?subcategory=C42   maybe one of my computer literate buds and find a better pic for you.


Is modifying a box unsafe or against any electrical codes? I modified a ceiling fan support box to fit onto a ceiling fan support brace. I did this because I wanted a ceiling fan in my dining room, but the junction box had three conduits running into the top of it. It would have been way too much effort and/or money to try and move or replace the conduit with flex to fit the original box that came with the fan brace.

So I did some searching and found out about the Garvin Box and widened the two outer holes to fit the WestingHouse brace.

The box you used is slightly smaller (20 cu.in. vs. 21.5 cu.in.), but that won't matter as long as you still comply with the box fill rules.  It also doesn't appear to be labeled for fan support, which means it can only support a fan up to 35 lbs. Aside from those issues, I'd say there's no problem with what you did.


Why does my central heating system comes on on its own accord? Can anyone tell me why my central heating comes on by itself: the radiators get hot and stay hot for around 1-3 minutes then the system turns back off again. This can happen any time throughout the day and night, and you can hear the system kicking in.

If your system also heats your domestic hot water, it may be coming on to maintain the hot water temperature.   Depending on the setup, you may be getting some hot water circulation through the radiators when this happens.    Is the radiator system steam, or hot water?   If it's hot water, can you tell of one or more of the circulators come on when the boiler runs?


Ceiling Fan Pancake Box Install I need to replace a ceiling fan and add a round 1/2" deep pancake box. However, the clearance with the drywall is slightly off and leaves a gap in the ceiling when the ceiling fan is installed. Is it acceptable to notch the joist 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch? If not what are other techniques to solve this?

You can notch a joist up to 1/6 the depth of the joist. For example, a 2x10 can be notched 1.54166" deep (9 1/4" / 6). However, you cannot notch a joist within the middle 1/3 of the joists length. The notch can also only be 1/3 the depth of the joist wide. Again with the 2x10 example, that means the notch can only be 3.0833" wide (9 1/4" / 3).

Since ceiling fans tend to be near the middle of the room, it's likely that the intended notch location is within the middle third of the joist. Which means that notching the joist, could be dangerous.

You also cannot notch the joist if it's an engineered joist, without consulting the manufacturer or an engineer first.

For more information on notching and boring joists, please se.e this answer


Basement insulation w/ existing tar paper and studs I recently pulled off old wood paneling in my basement, and would like to insulate it using rigid foam (silverboard or durofoam). Behind the panelling, there is tar paper, and 1x2" studs approximately every 1.5 feet. I see the tar paper as extra protection/moisture barrier, and am inclined to install the rigid foam over top. I have gotten such a range of advice on this...

Option 1) keep tar and studs, fasten rigid board on top leaving a 1-inch air gap between the wall and foam - and build a frame in front of foam for drywall.

Option 2) remove tar paper and all studs, adhere foam directly to cement wall and build out from there.

Option 3) remove studs, adhere foam to tar paper directly.

Option 4) cut foam to fit between existing studs and use tuck tape and expandable foam to fill in spots.

Does anyone have experience with this type of situation? The home is 65 years old, and we live in zone 6 for weather. Spray foam is not an option for us. Thank you!

Building Science Corporation recommends the following model these days for basement insulation:

rigid foam (or spray foam) directly against wall
stud wall (I prefer steel...easier to put up, no mold substrate, really lightweight)
finished wall (I prefer paperless sheetrock again, to avoid having a place for mold to grow)

Note the absence of any vapor barrier...of which tarpaper could be considered one.

The foam board acts as a vapor retarder so it slows moisture movement, but doesn't completely prevent it in case one side has to dry to the other.

For more details, see my answer on this question: Should I use steel or wood studs for basement exterior walls?


What type of screw is the most resistant to rust: galvanized, stainless steel, or deck screws? How do the following screw types fare in an outdoor (wet) long-term application?

Galvanized screw:

Stainless steel screw:

"Deck" screw:

The stainless steel screw will absolutely be the best screw to resist rust.  Stainless steel screws are rust-resistant throughout the entire screw, not just on the surface.

The other screws are only covered with a rust-resistant coating on their surface, which will break down or wear off over time.  Galvanization is a process that coats with zinc.  Other screws may be zinc coated as well using another process, or they may be coated with something else.

I have some screws on an outdoor fence which have rusted inside the slots in the screw head, because the screw driver tip wore away some of the coating in the slots at time of installation.  Phillips-head screws in particular are notorious for getting ground up when the tip "cams out" and jumps out of the screw head.

Stainless steel is undoubtedly the best material for resisting rust and corrosion in screws.  Why, then, would anyone use anything other than stainless steel outdoors?  Two reasons:

(1) Stainless steel is slightly softer than the hard steel used in deck screws or other similar screws.  You can't just "go crazy" with the power tools and slam the screws into place.  It is easier to chew up the heads on stainless screws, or to snap the heads right off by over-torquing them (though that is more of a problem with bolts than wood screws).  You have to slow down and be a little more careful.

(2) Stainless steel screws are more expensive.  Galvanized or other coated screws are just plain cheaper.

Despite those drawbacks, the rust prevention is unmatched by other screws.  I live in a rainy wet climate, so I use stainless screws on anything outside that I might need to ever take apart again.


Plumbing toilet and sink into same drain Please see attached sketch for more details, but we want to avoid cutting through the joists below the bathroom and also avoid creating a bulkhead in the family room below. We are located in Toronto, Canada.

We are thinking of using a wall mount toilet with an in wall tank from Geberit. Their catalog shows an elbow connector that appears to allow you to run the toilet drain (I assume this is a 3 1/2" pipe) at an angle instead of straight down through the floor. Can we then run the drain horizontally through the bathroom wall (approx 6 ft) and then down the floor into the mud room? If 6ft is too long what is the maximum length we can run the pipe horizontally (not sure if it needs a slope along the run)?

We would also like to connect the vanity drain in the bathroom to this drain. Is that doable? There is another bathroom directly behind this one and can the drain for the vanity in that bathroom also connect to the same drain above?

Hoping the experts in the forum can provide some insights for us.

Thanks

That 6’ run cannot be horizontal - it needs to slope, so either the wall end has to drop or the toilet end needs to be higher.

Your locality will specify the amount of slope in the regulations, however, some I have seen have a drop of about 6” across that distance. If the slope is too shallow, then things get stuck...


How to connect kitchen sink PVC J pipe to flanged drain pipe? How do I connect the PVC J pipe to the drain pipe in the kitchen sink?

The drain pipe has a large flange on it.  Because of the size of the flange, when using a flanged "top hat" washer, the nut can't get close enough to the threads on the PVC pipe.  The previous owner just packed putty around the connection.

There are two practical ways to deal with this. Before getting into details let me say that you should stop trying to join the trap parts of metal pipe to the trap parts of plastic pipe.

Method 1. Remove the metal pipe with the J bend and complete the P trap with plastic parts. Then join the plastic pipe to the down flow drain system where the pipes are straight and concentric with each other. There are slip type couplings to join the plastic to the metal in this way.

Method 2. Take out the plastic P trap parts and then re-build the connection from the metal J bend up to the drain of the sink using compatible metal parts. Note that metal parts are much more expensive and harder to work with so take that into consideration when selecting which method to use.

Do be aware that it may not be appropriate to be using a J bend pipe as part of the drain trap. Standing water in a trap should be confined primarily in the trap part itself and single tapered swivel joint of the trap joint. You should avoid having a situation that the standing water in the drain line rises up past other slip joints in the pipe system. Too much standing water column can also lead to a suction effect that can end up leaving the trap with not enough water in it after a heavy volume draining.


Do I have to check if my floor is level before installing new linoleum (from a roll, not tiles)? I just tore up my old linoleum flooring and will be installing new linoleum in the next few days.  Some internet research has revealed that I need to make sure the floor is level and, if it is not perfectly level, pour leveler over it.

Let's assume that my floor is not perfectly level.  What are the implications of installing the new floor even if the unlevelness is completely unnoticeable?  I am not one for cutting corners on home improvement work, but if it's truly not necessary to make it perfectly level then I would be okay with skipping that step.

You likely need flat, not level.

And for that, all you really need is some sort of a long, straight edge.  A yard stick works pretty well ... just place it down anywhere you think there might be a dip or bump, and if the yard stick is flat against the floor its whole length, you're fine.

As for the implications of not having it flat, I'm not sure for linoleum.  For floating floors it's really hard to get everything to click together, and you'll end up with spots that bounce a little too much when you walk over it.  You can actually have a little imperfection, which will be mentioned on the package (eg, 1/8" over 4')

As for not having it level, things set on the ground will roll away.


Can I cap off this gutter downspout? I have a gutter downspout about halfway through the lower section of a flat roof that currently connects to a rain barrel. The barrel is poor quality and sprung a leak that I have tried patching multiple times, and it's a bit of an eyesore. I'd like to cap the downspout and remove the rain barrel, but I'm not sure if this would put unnecessary load on the remaining gutter on that side of the house.

Is this something I can do without risking the water overflowing? I don't want to install a downspout there because of its inconvenient location that isn't on a corner.

Also, if I can cap it, how do you go about doing that? Would I just put a shingle over the downspout hole in the roof and seal it, or is there a more proper way?

See photos for more info.

I can't get up on the roof at the moment, but it looks something like the following photo with a round drain, but then a square cutout instead of a round cutout:

It appears that the gutter system was was designed with that downspout, so you should retain that downspout as part of the gutter system. From the pictures you have, I only see one downspout, with a large roof section (including the second level roof which I assume drains to it as well).


Loud brass valve - how to make it quieter? I have a 0.5hp pond pump, powering my backyard water features.
My pump is actually very quiet - quieter than the natural sound of the running water, so you don't notice it.
The pump circulates 960 gallons per hour (16 gallons per minute) at a maximum pressure rating of 55psi - which is more than enough to run my two waterfalls (which dump into a shared pond).
(I also have a 1 gallon canister filter in front of the pump, so the pump gets clean water input.)
My pump has 1-inch female NPT/IPS ports, where I have screwed brass fittings.
The pump sucks water out of the pond, simple enough.
The pump sends water into a brass t-joint, splitting the water flow into two pipes, with one pipe feeding each waterfall.
The two waterfalls are at different elevations (about 24 vertical inches difference), so the lower waterfall naturally receives almost all the water flow by default, and the upper waterfall receives effectively zero pressure.
So I installed a simple brass valve into the pipe feeding the lower waterfall, which I can partially close on a permanent basis, restricting water flow to the lower waterfall, and forcing some pressure to be diverted to the upper waterfall.
By carefully adjusting this valve, I can dial-in exactly the correct balance of pressure/flow between the two waterfalls.
This is working great.
However, as the title suggests, this partially-open valve is making a LOT of noise - much louder than the pump itself, and louder than the running water, so it's impossible to ignore and very annoying.
I tried a ball-valve first which was very loud, and then I tried a gate-valve which was about 2/3 as noisy - an improvement, but not good enough.
What is the best way to make the valve quieter?

Is there a different type of valve/regulator I should use instead of simple brass valves?
Or can I wrap the valve in sound-absorbing material with adhesive? (Must be waterproof and outdoor-rated.)
Or is there something else I can do?

A "globe valve" would be more suitable for the task. Both ball valves and gate valves are intended primarily for shutoff - either fully open, or fully closed.
A likely noise source is cavitation (bubbles forming and then collapsing) at the sharp edges in the flow when partially open. A gate valve has a plate with a (relatively) sharp edge that will be in the flow if partially opened, as does a ball valve.

A globe valve is more oriented to regulating flow at points between on and off. The opening is a ring that gets larger as the valve opens, without having part of the pipe wide-open for direct flow while another part is occluded by a sharp metal edge. There IS a sharp edge there, but it's presented equally to all the flow, and the valve design slows the water going through the partially opened valve.

You could also try running all the water to the higher waterfall, and putting the valve to feed the lower waterfall there, since you have excess pumping capacity. The additional pipe distance (friction head) to the lower fall and having already pumped up to the higher location would reduce the imbalance between the flows if they were split at this point, rather than at the lower falls. With some experimentation, you might also try a smaller diameter pipe to feed the lower falls, creating additional friction head (attempting to balance the additional 24" in real head to the upper falls, or at least put less of that job on the valve.)
Valve images are from wikipedia


How to frame around an egress window we are in the process of framing our new basement after having some foundation work done (steel supports, interior drainage, egress windows). I have a few questions about how to frame around the windows, when considering all the beams on the wall (five over 23 feet, with 2 windows).

1) Is it required that there are studs every 16", or can it be staggered, as long as it's 16" or less? Basically, with the windows and beams, trying to get one exactly every 16" is impossible and it gets crowded with lumber with all the pieces to frame around, coming to a piece every 10" on average on a non-load bearing wall.
2) When framing the windows, do the horizontal pieces need to be supported at every endpoint, or can they just be secured to the nearest vertical stud? Example, with this window:

Should it be framed as the left or right side below?

Thanks for your help!

The basic answer is that since this window is already set in the wall the interior framing that you are adding does not provide structural support of the wall over, under and along the sides of the window.

On the other hand you may want to consider how the interior trim and furnishings will be applied. If you intend to apply a wide casing around the window then do consider that having doubled framing around the window can be very nice for nailing into. This can also be very nice above and to the top sides if you intend to install wall mounted drapery rods or bars.


Outside A/C Unit Keeps Running 30+ Minutes After Inside Unit Stops I installed a new programmable thermostat back in December and it has been wonderful. It replaced a (probably) 50+ year old dial thermostat.

To my question - now that it is really hot outside (85+ degrees F), I have noticed that after my inside A/C unit has stopped, and the house is at the proper temperature, that my outside unit will continue to run. Sometimes it will run for 30 minutes, sometimes all the way until the inside unit needs to run again, and others it will shut off when the inside unit does. It's very inconsistent.

Any ideas if something may be wrong, or could it just be the newer thermostat cycles the unit differently than my old one? I never had this problem in the summer with the old one.

EDIT - Just to get this all in the question:

A/C Condenser - Trane XE 1000 - http://tranexe1000.blogspot.com/2014/11/trane-xe-1000-specifications-reviews.html

Air Handler/Furnace - Trane XE 78

Thermostat - Honeywell RTH2510 - http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH2510B1000-7-Day-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B003XCAMR8

EDIT 2 - Wiring at the thermostat

You've got a wiring problem, or a bad circuit board somewhere.

It's possible that the condenser unit is wired to run all of the time, but some protection circuit is kicking in and shutting it down. If that's the case, you would probably have ice build-up on your coils.

What is more likely is a relay somewhere is sticking, and remains closed when de-energized. If you provide the model number of you air handler and your condenser, I might be able to provide more direction.


Brick chimney with no smoke chamber: is there some type of metal insert that would work instead of rebuilding inside of chimney? Recently I bought a house that had a ventless gas log insert in the hearth, but had obviously been used as a wood burning fireplace previously, showing lots of charring. A chimney inspection revealed that the house had been built without a smoke chamber back in 1953 (!). I was told it could never be a wood burning fireplace because of the obvious lack of draw.

I'd like a WBFP but cannot afford to rebuild the entire chimney. Is there some sort of flue liner or stove pipe/insert that could make this work? Thank you for your advice.

Yes chimney liners are available depending on the local codes. Stainless steel and aluminum flex are common. You may need to contact the logset manufacturer to find out what is approved. If the mortar is in good shape you will not get better draft with a liner. Sometimes because it's not cool enough outside or your chimney is too short you don't get good draft until the chimney warms up. That's when a liner comes in handy. If sized properly it will warm up fast and draw within minutes. Talk to someone about doing the work for you as chimneys are not a do it yourself kind of job. You are dealing with carbon monoxide.


Can an external light fixture and an external receptacle share a circuit? I have to get power to provide an outlet for an awning at high level.

The nearest power source is an external light fixture. Can I wire into this? If so is there anything special I should know?

Should you? No, Greebo is right (+1), lights and outlets should be separate.

Can you? Maybe, it depends on whether the power source is at the light fixture, or at the light switch. If it's at the light switch, then your outlet would also be switched.

What do you need to know? Everything about electrical safety and codes so that you don't electrocute yourself or create a dangerous situation. Things like turning the power off at the breaker, testing the lines before you touch anything, using a GFCI outlet, using an outlet cover for exterior protection, stapling the wire to the stud, using the proper gauge wire, etc. If any of that list leaves you scratching your head, it would be best to hire a professional.