How should I clean mold from studs? I found a water leak behind my refrigerator.  It was about 3 feet wide a 1 foot high.  I pulled the drywall and I'm running a blower and dehumidifier in the kitchen.
The studs have some mold on them.  Is there a commercial product that I should use to clean the studs?  Should I just spray it on, or should I wipe or scrub it?  I've seen others paint the studs when treating.  Is this a special paint?

Bleach and water in a spray bottle (anywhere from 10 to 25 percent bleach to water ratio) will kill mold.   Watch the over-spray and wear old clothes.


What type of knot would allow the length of the standing part of the rope to be adjusted? Let's say I'm setting up a pole tent, and I want to be able to tie off the pole to the stake. I want to use a knot that will maintain the length of rope between the pole and the stake, but I may also want to adjust the length without completely retying the knot.

In this example image, the length A should be adjustable, without untying the rope from the stake or the pole.


What is this stair trim part called? I was wondering what this part of stair trim that the arrow points to is referred to as.  It is like a faceplate on the side of stairs, inverse of a baseboard.

If it's structural (the tread/risers are supported by it), it's called a stringer.

If it's not structural, it's called skirting (or simply a skirt).

  Source (PDF)


What are the pros and cons of solatube vs velux solar tubes? I want to install a solar tube to bring light to a room with no windows.

There are sadly no standards to be able to compare products in the market. I would expect a "lumens" spec that lets you compare light output of one product to another, like they have for LED lights for example.

Given such data doesn't exists, could anyone recommend (based on lumens and other features) between:
1. solatube
2. velux
3. whatever this is (sold via costco)

One thing I know is that I want frosted glass/plastic on the inside.
I noticed velux has a huge dome vs solatube being a small dome, and the costco thing being not a dome at all... thoughts?

my name is Bruce and I work with VELUX. I would like to provide you with some insights into our SUN TUNNEL skylight products.

The reflectivity of the tunnel material used by Solatube is 99% reflective, while the tunnel material used by VELUX is 98% reflective (rigid tunnels).  However, the VELUX tunnel comes with a 20-year warranty that it will remain highly reflective, while Solatube’s warranty is 10 years.

VELUX warranty link to pdf

Solatube warranty link

Reflectivity tests are conducted in a laboratory, but the light output of a tubular daylighting device will vary based on the orientation of the tunnel to the sun’s position in the sky, length of tunnel and time of day. The VELUX tunnel is designed to let the optimal amount of daylight into the home from as many different angles as possible. Our dome cap and our new flat glass cap allow the sun to penetrate the tunnel at many different angles. And the flat glass also sits low on the roof for an appealing appearance.

I hope this helps you in your decision making. If you have other questions about the VELUX tunnels please post here and I will do my best to answer them.


Repair a hole in plasterboard wall I'm wondering what is the best way to fix this hole in my wall.
It's a plasterboard wall in a UK house.

The previous owner of the house made a hold in the wall to run some cables for security cameras through and appears to have just made a hole, pushed the cables through, and then filled in the hole with filler of some kind.

A few days ago I moved the wire slightly and the entire section that was filled fell out. It looks like the filler was in the hole but not actually attached to anything other than the wires than ran through it, and then painted over.

(The other visible wire is his "high quality" internet extension wire :P )

Ok, so I want to do a better job to fill the hole than he did.
The hole goes back a few cm into open space and is about 4cm by maybe 2cm. I think that just filling it with standard filler like he tried isn't going to work well.

What is the proper way to fix something like this? Is there something that will work to fill the hole properly? AS you can tell I know little about this :)

Thanks!

Broken up plaster is not a good base for repair as it is springy, not stable and ridged.  You want to screw a piece if wood as a backing plate to give a good solid base to apply Fix-all.

Try to slide a piece of wood that is as wide as the narrowest openng, but 6" longer than the area you want to repair.  You will span the entire area from inside the hole and then secure the wood with screws through the front.  Drill a hole in the middle of the wood for a finger-hold, or drive in a screw to hold onto.

Apply Fix-all to the hole and smooth to just below the surface.  Fix-all is not very forgiving, so you don't want to end up with too much material and the need to try to sand it down to level with the wall surface.  Better to apply it shallow and fill it out with spackel and then finish it smooth.


Over-tightened nut, bolt broken? I was putting together my home treadmill and most of the bolts screwed into the frame and tightened nicely, but a couple of them will tighten somewhat and then suddenly become loose again when you try to further tighten them.  Obviously the frame's thread is damaged; is there some way to still get these bolts to tighten without buying a whole new frame (unfortunately the bolt hole is drilled directly into the frame and is not a separate component)?

Remove the bolts and inspect the threads of both the bolt and the tapped (threaded) hole in the frame.

You have three possibilities here:
Either A) the frame threads are damaged, B) the bolt threads are damaged, or C) both threads are damaged.

If A) or C), you're unfortunately out of luck without drilling and tapping a new hole as Tyler has said (this won't work if the frame is plastic with threaded inserts). This is the most likely because your bolts are probably steel and your frame is probably aluminum, or plastic with inserts.

If B), take the bolts to a hardware store (Ace Hardware usually has a great selection of individual bolts and are usually more helpful, but a place like Home Depot or Lowe's will also work) and find new ones that match. Then take care not to over-tighten them!

General rule: if there isn't a torque specification on a bolt, run it down "snug" (until you start to feel resistance, then give it another quarter to half turn). "Snug" is subjective but it should get you pretty close. And it'll help when assembling cheaply-made parts.


Can I replace 3-way switches with 4-way switches? Can I replace 2-3way switches with 2-4way switches as I have a couple of new 4ways just sitting around and the 3way switches are the older style ( every other switch in the house is the new style)

Sure, a 4-way is essentially two 3-ways in one device. Usually a 4 way switch has 2 (IN) screws and 2 (OUT) screws. Using one of the (IN) terminals is the same as the common terminal on a 3 way. And using the (OUT) terminals is the same as the traveler terminals on a 3 way. Connect the travellers to the (OUT) terminals, then connect the power or light wire to one of the remaining (IN) terminals, leaving the other empty.

Background Information (if anyone cares)
The following illustration demonstrates the internal workings of each type of switch in a conventional installation. You should be able to see how a 4-way (middle )is functionally two 3-ways (left and right switches) overlaid.


Four family home with community washers and dryers I recently bought a four family property. I wanted to provide washers and dryers for my tents, 1 set per two units. However, I have run into an interesting dilemma. People want hot water on the washers but where should it come from? I don't think it's fair to run the hot water from one of the tenants hot water tanks.

Is the only option to get a 5th hot water tank dedicated to the washers? If so, who's gas line do I use to heat the tank? Any common solutions out there I am missing?

Since this is a common facility for your tenants, it should be installed in such a way that neither tenant is paying for the gas or electricity required for the washer.

If there is no common hot water heater in the building, then you should do the following:

Have an additional electric meter installed to supply electricity to the common areas of the building. Depending on local regulations and the size of the building, this may need to be a commercial meter.
If you want to use gas for the hot water and dryers, have an additional gas meter installed.
In order to supply hot water to the washers, you may want to investigate tankless water heaters which take up significantly less space than a tank. A small 100,000 BTU heater like this one can easily supply several washing machines.

An alternative route is to go all electric. Install a common electric meter as above, but use an electric on-demand water heater and electric dryers. Depending on your local utility costs this may end up being a lot more expensive than gas, though.


swing set off the ground or directly on the ground I am going to build a A-frame swing set with 4x4s and am wondering about one thing. When I read most of the tutorials, the swing set sits directly on the ground. Is it ok for the water introsuion? Even if the lumbers are rot-resistent, I know that, for deck building or shed building, it is advised that the structure is off the ground with the piers or the posts are buried, being surrounded by the cement.

Because it is related to the safety issue, I thought I might need to clarify this before taking an action.

Typically it's suggested that A-frame play sets be firmly anchored in the ground to prevent tipover. A couple vigorous kids can impart enough force to tip a structure. Longevity takes a back seat to safety here.

Use lumber that's decay-resistant (I wouldn't have concerns about the new breed of pressure treated lumber), and either bury it sufficiently or weight it with concrete. Concrete should be below ground level to allow for softer material above.


What should I do with this crack on an outside brick wall? I have this long, but thin, crack on my outside brick wall and I was wondering what I could do to repair it myself (if it's even worth repairing). Winter is coming and I'm afraid it will get worse with frost/defrost. I have no signs of water infiltration inside. It's right under a window, if it matters.

Bought the house in June, previous owner never noticed it/didn't care.

First picture shows the length of the crack and second shows the wider spot (I'd say thinner than a dime)

Very unusual to have the crack extend through the brick. Usually, the mortar is designed to have less strength than the brick so when the wall settles it cracks staggering down the wall in the mortar joints only. That way, the mortar can be repaired without replacing bricks. (Finding bricks that match exactly will be difficult.)

Several possible issues: 1) settlement, 2) expansion, 3) bowing of wall.

1) Vertical cracks are usually caused by differential settlement.  That is to say, as the load is transferred to the ground, the ground has soft spots that cause the wall to settle a different amount at different points along the wall.

When this happens the crack will taper. That is to say, the crack opening will get bigger along the crack. Also, one side of the crack will drop from the other side. Neither of these issues happened, so I doubt settlement is your problem.

If it is settlement, it would be so insignificant that it would not be “failure” (collapse).

2) As a wall heats up and cools down it expands and contracts. If the wall is on the south side of the house (the side with the greatest heat gain and expansion) or if the wall is exceptionally long, expansion can occur. Cracking will occur at a weak spot, like below a window, etc. where there is less support (strength).

If this occurs in solid wythe walls, it can crack through to the interior. Is it solid wythe brick wall and did it crack through to the interior? Does the crack extend through the foundation?

If the wall is a brick veneer wall, the backing support wall portion may or may not crack too. Is it a brick veneer wall?

3) If the wall is bowing inward or outward it could cause the wall to crack. Is the wall straight?

Regardless the type of wall, if water gets in the crack and then freezes, it will worsen (enlarge) the crack.


Drying and sanding cherry tree disc for coffee table Last week I had an old cherry tree that was looking a bit worse for wear cut down in my garden. I asked the tree surgeon if he'd cut me a chunk so I could make a little coffee table/bedside table.
Size
1 - 6cm deep by 37cm diameter
2 - 7cm deep by 37cm diameter
Images - you can see that where there was seeping it has turned a bit mouldy.

There are 2 pieces but the large one had a gash down one side from the chainsaw. I would like to dry them, sand, wax and add metal pin legs. I paint a fair amount but my DIY skills, especially with wood work are limited. I have a small hand held electric sanding mouse. Can any one recommend any tips for me. How long should I leave it to dry in my home? before sanding? Do I need to put anything on it to prevent cracks.

Looking at it today one piece already has a line down the middle... I should have put this post up last week :(.

Thank you for any tips or advise.

I think it all depends on what you're trying to achieve in a final look...

If you need the top to be perfectly smooth (no cracks, no blemishes), there are ways to do that, but they involve some fairly serious woodworking tools and time.

If you're willing to go a little more rustic and accept the wabi-sabi of it all, then get a belt sander and flatten the top; apply linseed oil; get some legs on (preferably 3 rather than 4, with a slight degree of adjustability); and let the natural checking process begin.


110v outlet convert to disconnect? I have a 110v outlet with a dedicated 20 amp breaker. My question is can I remove outlet and run the same 12/2 wire to the outside wall about 4 feet away from outlet and turn it into a disconnect box for a mini split 115v?

You can put a blank junction box cover on the box and connect with WET RATED WIRE to your OUTDOOR disconnect box 4 feet away.

I'd use conduit and THWN, you might choose 12/2 UF cable. Running interior dry type cable to exterior boxes is a code violation; a common one, but a violation never the less.


How can I prevent post support brackets from creaking under foot traffic? I (well, a contractor) added a new addition to my house, and the floor creaks when I walk on it. I crawled under the addition and identified the problem.

On each footing, there is a steel bracket that connects the footing to the beam it supports. The bracket is connected tightly with screws. At the site of the noise, there is a small gap (~3/8 in.) between the footing and the beam. In other words, the beam is floating slightly above the footing. Thus, this particular bracket makes a creaking noise when the beam moves.

The bracket doesn't move visibly... it just creaks.

I tried to fix the problem by stuffing shims into the gap, but it didn't really work. Depending on the temperature, the noise gets better or worse sometimes.

Any suggestions? Is it safe for me to DIY this? If I remove or replace the bracket, will the resulting beam movement cause damage to walls or windows?

Thanks!

Edit: Here's a photo from my latest repair attempt: https://imgur.com/a/KQkkpbY

Like Ed Beal suggested in a comment, you mostly need to drive your shims in more assertively. However, I'd use plenty of construction adhesive as well.

Remove the shims now in place if they'll come out with a little effort.
Blow or vacuum out all dust and debris.
Inject plenty of heavy-duty construction adhesive into all gaps.
Firmly drive pressure-treated wood or synthetic shims into any gap, above or below the metal brackets.
Add more adhesive around the shims to lock them in place.

24 hours later everything should be really well stabilized and silent.


Sudden power surges from games console Last night I dozed off on the sofa and was awakened by a cracking noise which I quickly traced to a plug on the wall which was clearly sparking inside the case. Alarmed, I unplugged it, turned it off and checked the trip switches but nothing else seemed untoward.

The plug in question runs to a four-socket extension. Plugged into the four sockets were a TV soundbar, two games consoles (and Xbox 360 and a PS4) and some incandescent Christmas tree lights, none of which were actively drawing power at the time this happened.

Today, presuming the extension to be at fault, I went out and got a new one with surge protection. I plugged the Christmas tree lights in first, and it seemed fine. Then I plugged in the PS4 and - without turning the console on - the surge protection tripped and the lights went out. Puzzled, I repeated this and got the same result.

I then plugged in the lights, Xbox and soundbar and everything seemed fine. Then I added the PS4 and there was no effect. I tried turning the Xbox on and the tree lights briefly went out, then returned. I turned that off and turned the PS4 on: no effect.

I cannot recall whether I'd ever seen this happen before: I have a vague memory of this extension sparking briefly once or twice when power was drawn. But this was prolonged sparking, enough to wake me from sleep. Also I have never had issues plugging in the PS4 before, but we don't normally run Christmas tree lights from this extension.

What's going on here? Should I be worried, or is the surge protection enough to keep me safe? Do I need to swap things around or unplug things when not in use?

You have a series arcing fault inside the receptacle.  There is a gap in the conductors somewhere just large enough to make electricity leap across the gap.   You know that because you saw it arc.

Left alone it can burn your house down.  The arcing makes a lot of heat, and then it's a race between whether the arcing will erode enough material to widen the gap enough to arrest the arcing, or make enough heat to set something on fire inside the walls. Hard to fight a fire inside walls.

This type of problem is common, and it's caused either by the cheap 50 cent tier receptacles losing their grip strength or cracking, or "backstab" wire connections where a wire is jabbed into a hole and grabbed by a spring.  The backstab only touches at a couple points, not a long edge the way screw connections attach.

The arc is in series with loads you plug into this receptacle, or possibly ones downline in the circuit.  Removing the loads should stop the arcing for now, but this needs to be fixed.

The cure is to replace the receptacle.  This is handyman work not even electrician work, and shouldn't need a permit. A handyman should watch for "tabs" on the side of the receptacle to make sure they are not broken off, as they need to be in some comfigurations.  And should use the side screws, not troublesome backstabs.  If you attempt it yourself, turn off the breaker first, use the better $3-tier receptacles, shoot pix of the "as-found" wiring before and check the wires for arc damage, more to conclusively determine the source.  Don't hesitate to ask us if you get stuck.

Your "trip" didn't detect it because trips only look for one kind of failure: overload.  This arc fault couldn't flow any more current than the appliances normally take.    If you want a circuit breaker that also looks for that problem, get an AFCI ("Combination" Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor), which literally listens for arcish sounds.  "Combination" means both series faults (which you've met) and parallel arc faults (where the wires short together, but do not flow enough current to trip the overload breaker).   If you want one that also protects humans from electric shock, get a dual-mode AFCI/GFCI.  GFCI, or Ground fault Circuit Interruptor, looks for wayward current that could zap someone.  It is called RCD in Europe.


How to support the side of concrete steps? Last spring, we decided to remove a concrete walkway (and much of the soil underneath it) behind our house and replace it with either a pea gravel or decomposed granite patio with boxwoods and a fire pit. Removing the concrete and soil was fun, hard work.

Now, we need to decide how we're going to support the existing concrete steps.
 As you can see from the images below, we left a mound of soil next to the steps for the time being, for support. We're not sure what to do next.

We have a few questions:

What should we use to hold up the concrete steps? We're hoping it could be something that would be flush with the steps and not have to stick out too much into the patio.
What can we use to remove the excess concrete on the foundation wall so that it's all even (no lip)?
What can we use to make an extra step on the bottom of the concrete stairs all the way to the left in the panoramic picture?  Right now, we have a mound of dirt left over from when I dug out the patio area. We'd be happy with a wood step, if we could find one that would look nice.

Any advice/pointers for this project are greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

I can't give a definitive answer for most of this as I have no building experience, but the answer I would give to no 2 removal of the excess concrete on your foundation is a very loud 'don't do it'. it is as you say part of your house foundation.  I don't think many would recommend reducing your foundation structure. If you wish this to be part of a social area, can I suggest that you find a way to increase this lip. And to use this as a shelf for cups, glasses  etc. You may even like to have the odd small plant pot on there. This can be done by tiling up the wall against the existing concrete, and then tiling the shelf, or by boarding up the concrete and having a wooden shelf.  Just a thought.
How are you thinking about accessing your new patio area? Using the existing concrete steps may be awkward, and you may need to retain the soil pile and use this to have steps down to your patio, from the existing steps.


Incredible Night Wave Light System I want to buy or make a nice night random-waves light projector at home.
The idea is from the movie "Blade Runner 2049":

I searched on sale, but I did not find anything like this.
There are many more primitive goods.
There is another option - some Ultra High Definition Home Theater Projector. But it is practically inconvenient...

Well, this is a difficult task. Of course, it is almost impossible to create an effect, looks like a professional Hollywood movie.

But today I've seen the other very good idea in the trailer to the "The Greatest Showman" movie :)
(Rotation of the cylinder with holes around the candle).

Such a simple trick will never looks like the trailer. But in any case it's a useful and a good idea.

Any ideas how the ideas of the "ocean reflections" waves and a real natural fire can be made on practice?

You don't need a UHD projector - you could probably use one or more "discarded or for sale cheap as not new enough" projectors at HD or lower resolution. This sort of thing seems quite common (if tacky, to my taste) in modern art installations for the sort of effect you seek - best example I recall as closest to yours was raindrop ripples all over the floor, and I happened to recognize the 1080P projectors they were using.

As for water ripples (specifically), any point light source (need not be a projector - some LEDs would work well), a (clear) tank of water, and a ripple generator of some sort. We used to do this with overhead projectors and a 12x12x1 inch tank to illustrate waves in physics classes. Bounce off mirrors if you need it anywhere other than under the projector, gravity is uncompromising when it comes to water.

But do realize that when looking at movies these days, most of the effects are added in post-production and never got any more realistic than numbers in a computer. So what you see and how it appears that they did it are generally unrelated.


Two power sources, one 3-way switch? I am attempting to build a charging station for all of our electronics. I would like to set it up so for each device there is a light switch and an outlet for its power adapter.

If it is switched one way, it is straight power like it's plugged into the wall. If it is switched the other way, it will go into a timing circuit where it will only get power for 2 hours a day (to maintain charge when not in use).

I would I have a 'timed hot' (T.H.) and an 'always hot' (A.H.) supply line entering the circuit but I    am not sure where to go from here as far as the rest of the wiring.

Is this possible and if so, how?
Thank you so much!

I personally think you are going way overboard with what you propose. These days all your newer stuff charges with 5V on USB Type A connectors. The charge controllers inside your phone / tablet / GPS / whatever else are smart and will service the internal battery in the proper way. So there should be no need for this two hours per day timed behavior.

So if you have five devices to charge get one of these. For ten devices get two.


How to control 120V power outlet with low voltage I would like to power a 120V attic fan every time my AC comes on. The low voltage wire connecting the thermostat with the compressor (to control the compressor) runs through the attic (as the compressor is on the roof) and I was thinking to put some sort of junction in the attic so the same wire that turns the compressor on also controls the attic fan. I can easily branch off a ceiling light box to install a box to power this, outlet or direct wiring.
My question is: which electrical device (switch?) can I use to input 24V and release or stop 120V outlet or direct wiring (on a separate circuit than the low voltage)? I imagine something like a power transformer that hangs on the outlet (input), and an input from the low voltage wire which controls another outlet (out) depending on whether it is charged or not.
I am asking this because the fan that I have is not smart and does not take thermostat input, only 120V on/off. So I am trying to control the release of the 120V every time the AC is on, as the control wire for it runs near.

A relay, just like the other stuff your thermostat controls uses for this purpose.
Not surprisingly, you'll find that 24VAC coil 120/240VAC contact relays are very, very common, and available in a wide range of ratings. You'll need one rated to operate the horsepower of your fan motor (or more, but not less) at 120V. It may also be rated for more horsepower at 240V, but you need HP at 120V rating if the fan motor is wired for 120V.


Grey Water Coming Out of Our Toilets, Sinks and Showers We have grey water coming out of our sinks, toilets and showers. I have noticed a funny smell a couple weeks prior to this from my shower, but I ignored it thinking it was nothing too major.

This first started when I came home. I turned on the sink to wash my hands and then all the sudden there was a gap in the water, kind of like extra air in the water and made a loud spurting noise, then all of the sudden grey smelly water came running out. Similar thing happened with the showers and toilets.

We have tried changing the water filter, and after running the water through the system, it resolved a tiny bit but still has grey water and a smell to it. Same results happened when we reset our water softener.

I would love to hear some feed back with this problem of ours. Thanks for reading, and please comment any thoughts about what the problem may be and any solution.

I found out the problem. There was lots of rust build up on the well walls. The build up of rust eventually fell down into the water giving it the grey look and smell.


What kind of Sealer for particle board I have an early 80's oak vanity in the master bath. I think the sides and bottom of the drawers are some kind of particle board. Little pieces of wood pieces/dust are constantly present. I want to seal the drawers so they don't 'shed'. What is the best product to use for this? Thank you to anyone with an answer!

Mary

Polyurethane is the modern standby product. Water-based is easier to work with, but oil-based is more durable.

One coat, steel wool, another coat or two. Keep 'em light to minimize runs.


What is the advantage of a double pole switch over a single pole switch? I know that a double pole switch is used to cut off the current in both live and neutral wire simultaneously, but by using a single pole switch,if you switch off the current through the live wire, the current doesn't flow through the neutral wire as it is. Then why can't a single pole switch be used in place of double pole switch?

On-off vs isolation switching

In the UK, a single-pole switch is usually used to turn on and off a light or an appliance. A double-pole switch is used where you need to isolate a circuit for safety reasons during maintenance of the circuit.

For example, current UK code requires a two-pole isolator for fire-alarm control-boxes and for high-power fixed-wiring (non-plugged) appliances such as isolation switches next to electric cookers and electric showers.

The issue is that, in case of a fault being investigated, the fault may have caused neutral to be broken or otherwise to be carrying a voltage significantly different from ground (earth).


How do I find out the correct pre-charge air pressure for my captive air water tank? I have a Sears captive air water tank (model No. 390.29171) that stores water pumped from the well.  When we took possession of the house, there was no water in the tank or lines, the water pressure gauge was stuck at 95 psi (on at tank with a maximum working pressure of 75 psi), and the air pressure in the tank measures less than 10 psi.

According to the information on the tank label, the pre-charge air pressure should be the same as the cut-in pressure setting of the pump pressure switch.

My question is, how do I find the cut-in pressure setting of the pump pressure switch?  If I remove the covers from the two pressure switch boxes, is there something that will tell me what the setting is?

The photo shows the pump cut-off pressure switch.  There is an identical box without a label to the left of it which is partially visible in this photo.  I'm guessing this is the pump cut-in pressure switch?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Pressure Switch

I've never seen a "safety cut-off" on a pressure system before, but typically the switching is done by a single box (known as a "pressure switch"). Pretty much all of them (at least from the last ~20 years) look something like this:

The large nut is used to control the pressure (both cut-in, and cut-out) and the small one controls the range between the two.

Finding on and off pressure

First of all, you need a working pressure gauge to be able to do anything, so replace that.

To find the current setpoints:

Run the pump until it shuts off (this is the off pressure)
Open a tap or two, and wait until the pump cuts in (this is the on pressure)

Btw, 95psi is really high. Most homes run 40/60 or 50/70. International Residental Code maximum is 80psi (IRC P2903.3.1). Beyond that, you'll potentially start having issues with leaking toilet valves in particular, but other failures are possible as well.

Bladder tank pre-charge

Normally the pre-charge should be set to 2psi below the on pressure, but if your tank recommends setting it the same it shouldn't make a huge difference.


Minimum Interior Door Height I'm planning on adding a full bath to our basement, but I am wondering how short I can go with the bathroom door. The room itself will easily clear 80" tall, but the entry side wall is flush up against existing duct work.

The tallest door I can reasonably expect to fit would be 75", which is just shy of 78". Is this acceptable or could I run in to issues when I sell the house?

Looking at codes, it seems like egress doors are explicitly called out, and interior doors seem to be under looser guidelines.

The Code Does not stipulate the height of doors in bathrooms. Yes, you are correct that the Code does indicate that ONE  3'-0" wide x 6'-8" high door is required for "habitable spaces". However, only living, sleeping, eating and cooking spaces are defined as "habitable spaces". "Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, storage rooms, utility rooms, halls and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces." (R 202 of Code)

By the way, the Code does stipulate the ceiling height of 7' for, "habitable rooms, hallways, corridors, bathrooms, laundry rooms and portions of basements containing these spaces." Now, there are four exceptions for sloped ceilings, beams that hang down below 7', etc. (R 305.1).


How do I prevent an interior door from latching? I have an interior door (with doorknobs, not handles) that auto-closes. I would like, most of the time, to be able to just push the door open and not have to turn the knob.
However, I don’t want a permanent solution, because sometimes I do want the door to latch, in order to keep the dog corralled on occasion.
Any ideas on how to ensure that the door doesn’t latch unless I want it to?

Change the lock to either a magnetic one - which will always open with a push or pull or a spring-loaded roller one that will do the same.


How important is the scoop cut in a drop-in joint? I've been reading up on joints, particularly drop-in joints. Some of the drawings have a curved cut on the underside leading up to the tenon, sometimes labeled a "scoop cut".

Curves make construction more difficult and time consuming. How important are they to this kind of joint? Why aren't they ever used on through or blind mortise and tenon joints?

Notches in structural members such as floor joists cause stress risers that decrease the strength greater than the material removed. A scoop cut reduces the strength only by the removed material and no more. The scoop can be freehanded if it does not show, so it may be faster than carefully cutting a notch.

In constructions where the member is significantly stronger than necessary the scoop is not required and a square cut will yield a neater, tighter joint. Even though there is overlap, the goals and techniques of building construction and rough carpentry are often much different than cabinetry and fine carpentry.


Soil grade is above foundation Our soil/landscaping grade is between about 4" and 8" above the foundation.  I've read and been told that this is a problem.  I believe the soil should be ~4" below the foundation line.  We have a hundred year-old house with a brick foundation.

Fixing it by uniformly lowering the soil line will likely be very costly, as we have a lot of landscaping planted around the house.  Furthermore, on one side of the house, if we lower the grade 12", we will almost certainly go below the level of our neighbor's house.

I have several questions:

How significant of a problem is having the grade above the foundation line?
Are there reliable technological solutions that would prevent us from digging up and replanting all of our trees and shrubs surrounding the house?
What kind of professionals do I need to consult to get this done properly?

How significant of a problem is having the grade above the foundation line?

Soil above the foundation means that critters (rodents, worms, reptiles, etc.), bacteria, molds, and water can easily access the siding and infiltrate the walls.  Some of these can rapidly deteriorate the structure in a matter of a year or two in contrast to a building lasting 100 or more years.

  Are there reliable technological solutions that would prevent us from digging up and replanting all of our trees and shrubs surrounding the house?

Yes.  Use a shovel to remove the soil next to the house.  You do not have to regrade the whole lot.  A foot wide trench next to the house is plenty for this concern, though channeling runoff away from the house should also be addressed.  That could be as simple as putting in a few drain lines at strategic points.

  What kind of professionals do I need to consult to get this done properly?

I would start by looking around your neighborhood and see what works and what does not.  Imitate the successes.


Part 2 Another Question Regarding the Correct Wiring Involving a Light Switch and an Outlet Last week I started a thread that really confused me about some wiring in a bathroom. Here is that thread:

My previous thread on rewiring a light in the bathroom.
Thanks to the help Jim Stewart, I was able to get the light in the ceiling to work. But now here is the thing. I finally figured out what the wiring in the lower right hand of the switch box is for. It is for an outlet on the opposite side of the wall that is in the hallway. I had no idea until I later learned that the hallway lamp wasn't working any longer. So my question is:

How do I connect the lower right hand Romex wiring in the junction box to the wiring that is described in the link above (per Jim Stewart's instructions) and connect it to the Romex that supplies power to the outlet in the hallway on the opposite side of the wall?

To recap in case you don't want to go to that other thread:

The upper left hand Romex in the switch box had a hot black wire. The other wire on the upper right hand was the wire that connected to the lamp I affixed into the ceiling. So to get it to turn the light on I connected the black hot wire of the Romex on the upper left to the black wire of the Romex on the upper right to a basic light switch. I then wired the white wire of the Romex on the upper left to the white wire of the Romex on the upper right. So now I need to figure out how to connect the Romex wire (that is located on the lower right hand side of the switch box that powers an electrical socket on the opposite wall to the upper left and/or right wiring in the same box. Here is the photo from the other thread:

Hope to get some help. Thanks!

You connect the black wire of the cable going to the receptacle to the black (line hot) of the cable on the left. You connect the white wire of the cable going to the receptacle to the white neutral and connect the ground.

Before you do this you could examine the receptacle to determine that the receptacle is wired correctly or you could just connect it and test the receptacle with a circuit tester. The black wire should be go to the shorter slot and the white wire to the longer slot. If you have a multimeter, you can plug an extension cord into the receptacle and verify the hot neutral conections before you connect.


3 Sets of Wires Confusion There was an old junction box in our family room with a metal cover over it. It looks like there was probably a wall sconce there at one point and I thought I’d install a new one. However, the wires inside are really confusing and I’m not sure how to proceed. There are two white wires capped together, two black wires and a white wire covered in black sharpie capped together, and a single black wire with black tape on it capped by itself. I am guessing this is some sort of 3 way switch wiring, but I’m not sure what to connect with the wires on the light fixture. Any ideas? See my picture for reference. Thank you

This appears to be a classic switch loop with the white wire marked black. With your power turned off, connect your white fixture wire to the group of white wires in the box. Connect your black fixture wire to the single black wire in the box. The box doesn't appear to be grounded so just leave the copper wire from the fixture, if there is one, unhooked and tucked into the box.


What do I need to replace 4 light switches on the same circuit? So we have a single light in our living room that can be turned on/off from four different switches at various entrances to the living room.

We're currently replacing all the switches in our house as we update things and I'm wondering exactly what type of switches I need to buy.

4-way? 3-way? Do they make a 5-way? I've replaces dozens of 1 and 2-way switches in the house already, but want to make sure I buy the right switches here.

Here is a diagram.  You'll need 2 3-way and 2 4-way switches.

[North America]

(Note: This is North American terminology)

[Europe]


Ideas of how to fit a door here? I’m about to start working on putting a door here but I’m thinking of how I should do it.
Here’s a video - the opening is a bit awkward, I’ve thought that I’m going to have to trim the shelves where the door will swing out a bit... but need some ideas on what might be the best way to do this.
video of doorway potential

I presume you’re going to get a Building Permit to do the work. If so, I can see several Code violations that you’ll need to correct:

Incorrect height of handrail.

Handrail does not extend far enough at top of stair.

Height of ceiling on top landing is too low.

Incorrect bedroom window size. Window needs to be changed to egress window regardless if the door is added or not. (Egress window has a minimum opening width and height for emergency exiting...and emergency rescue.)

Smoke detector is required for sleeping rooms...

If you add the door, make sure the top landing remains the width of the stairway and has a depth of 36” in the direction of the stair, if the door swings out over the landing. (See ICC R311.5.4) No required size of landing is required if the door does not swing out over the landing.
Maybe the new door could swing into the bedroom.


How to fill gap between garage floor and driveway I have a concrete garage floor and a section of concrete driveway next to it. Over the years the driveway has settled a little bit and the gap between the two is probably close to an inch wide and several inches deep. At one point it looks like someone put rubber in it.

I'm looking to fill this gap with the proper material. What would that material be and how do I apply it?

A very common gap size for concrete swimming pool decks, check a local pool store for wood, plastic and rubber expansion joint fillers. Thinner Concrete Pavers could also be cut into strips and dropped or stuffed in.

Otherwise, there's no problem with filling (and ramping, if desired) the gap with concrete or cement. The filler won't have any interaction with either slab, since they're fully separated and new cement bonds extremely weakly to old cement.


New portable AC needs single circuit outlet, what does that mean, and how can I tell if my outlet is the right kind for my 14K BTU AC? I just bought a De'Longhi portable air conditioner, 14,000 BTU. I live in a high-
rise apartment in Maryland, USA. We are not supposed to install window AC units here. I'm not sure what the reason is, if they just don't want you to use too much electricity (incl. in rent), or because they don't like the look of typical window AC units hanging out, or some other reason I don't understand. The building is old (1966), poorly maintained, and the AC here is completely inadequate. At times my apt. on the top floor is 80-90 degrees F., and because of health issues I cannot tolerate the heat and high humidity here. (Our AC comes from the radiator and provides  NO dehumidification. A lot of people here get mold on their units, mine was black!)

The portable 14K BTU AC I got requires a "single circuit outlet". How can I tell if I have the right kind of outlet by a window in my apt.? The De'Longhi AC is inside, but it has an exhaust tube that needs to vent out a window. Is it OK to use an outlet that has something else plugged into it, as long as I don't use both the AC and the other thing(s) at the same time? Should I unplug one thing while the other is being used? Could something bad happen if I don't do this right? I'm afraid to ask the buildings maintenance guys, because I don't know if I'm allowed to have this AC in my apt., and they could report me to the management. If you know about these kinds of things, please help. Thanks.

A single circuit outlet is one that is wired to the panel and does not engage or connect to any other outlets or appliances using electricity. The purpose is to eliminate/reduce additional current draw preventing breakers from popping from overload, or fires from starting caused by faulty breakers.

You can determine if you have a genuine single circuit outlet by plugging lamps into all of your outlets. Flip each breaker off in turn. If only one lamp goes out, you might have found your objective.

You can "work around" the single circuit restriction if you identify with certainty the outlets shared with the one you've chosen to use with the unit. Turning nothing else on while the A/C is in use will prevent the overload, possible breaker trip or circuit failure/fire.

If, for example, you discovered that your television is connected to the same circuit you've chosen for the A/C, it may draw enough total power (A/C and TV) to pop the breaker. It's a sure thing that you would not use a 1500 watt hair dryer while operating your A/C on the same circuit. Some televisions draw very little power, so that appliance may have been a poor choice.

Because the second option involves human engineering, it is more prone to human error. An example from my world is the kitchen circuit. One microwave oven running in convection mode and one toaster oven running in baking mode is more than the non-single-circuit breaker can handle. We know not to do this, yet it happens often.

Regarding the use in your building, it's less certain, but the A/C unit is merely blowing hot humid air out the window and would not be visible as a protruding box, as would a window unit. It seems likely you would be able to use it without complications in that respect.


Preparation for laminate floor went south So I've setup few laminate floors so far, and I'm no expert at this but this is what I like to do in my spare time.

So I've got a condo in which there were carpets and I teared out those and all what comes with it. But I've uncovered something that I haven't seen before and so I don't know how to proceed. If found that the ending of the floor is not even as the rest of the floor, it's a bit lower. And this is where I wanted to put the reducer to finish off the laminate flooring.

Just for you to get an idea what I'm talking about here are some photos :

I've put a wooden stick so you can spot how it lowers down. The floor ending is about 5-7 mm lower than the rest of the floor.

What do I do now?

You just need to fill the gap with a floor leveler.  You will clean area, prime it (primer is sold right next to floor leveler at big box), and add leveler.  You need a day for primer to dry usually and usually a day or two for leveler so add that into install timeline.


Floating floor tile (Snapstone). Can unlevel be fixed? My friend and I put in this floor two years ago.  It is Snapstone, snap together, floating floor, tile that is grouted after installed.

Prior to install, he used floor leveler in the hall area to come up level with kitchen area, where a door jamb exists. All seemed ok originally but I had a feeling that this door area would be an issue.

Here are my 3 OFF THE WALL, LOW COST IDEA/remedies: Scrape out the grout, then...

Spray loctite expanding foam underneath,then regrout.
Pour leveling compound to seep through underneath, then regrout.
Just try to regrout?

I have no more of these tiles left.  This was a small budget project and I'm trying to keep it that way.

PS - Other than this, I LOVE this floor and product.

I'm assuming that there's a depression or hump in the floor that you'd like to eliminate or reduce. The only right way is to disassemble the floor and prepare the subfloor properly. If you do it carefully you probably will be able to reuse the tiles.

Problems with your ideas:

Foam will compress and degrade over time. Also, it's extremely sticky and difficult to remove. Massive mess even if you manage to get it under the tiles.
Levelers will not "seep" through the cracks in any appreciable quantity, and certainly not enough to give your tiles the full support they require. Also, mess.
I'm not sure how this resolves the issue as I've assumed it.


How can I safely collect and store water for extended periods of time? Am from a place where the summer heats up to temperatures of 38 C to 44 C and water is a major problem. I thought of building a tank so that water collected from rainy season can be purified and later directed to the tank for reutilizaion in summer.

But that means that the water remains stagnant for over 4-5 months and it is not good for use when summer comes. Can somebody suggest few tips to overcome this situation.

What am trying: Preserve the rain water which can be later used for house hold work and for drinking purpose, in summer season(especially).

Your catchment and cistern (the part that's open to air and thus to contamination by insects/bacteria) should be as small as it can be while still providing enough capacity to take in the rain as it falls. Once rain enters the cistern from the catchment, it should then be pumped into a holding tank which is air- and water-tight, and from which you draw your water for general use. That way, water doesn't stagnate in the cistern. To make this work properly, you'll want a drain in the cistern. Normally the drain would be kept open to prevent standing water in the cistern between rains. When rains start, the first few minutes' worth should "wash" the catchment and cistern relatively clean of contaminants like dust, pollen, bird doo, etc; then the drain can be plugged and water diverted into the holding tank. You can do this manually, or set up some sort of rain-sensing system that will control the drain for you.

Once water is in the holding tank, a small amount of antibacterial and algaecide agents will keep it clean. Iodine kills both bacteria and algae, and you need to take in a little of it anyway (good for the thyroid), but the water will smell a little funny, will not be suitable for laundry (iodine permanently stains cotton and most fabrics so over time your whites will become yellow) and too much iodine can be poisonous. Chlorine is a no-brainer antibacterial but is less effective against algae except in large (harmful) doses, and will also make for funny-smelling water.

You could consider a saltwater chlorination system. These systems use a small amount of sodium chloride (3.5g/L is the threshold for human perception of salt by taste; saltwater systems generally work with salt concentrations between 2-3g/L) along with electrically-charged plates to create free chlorine ions that disinfect the water. Saltwater chlorination is used for pools to avoid chloramines ("combined" chloride compounds, which give the water that distinctive smell) and similar systems are available for producing potable water.

Understand that any chlorine-based disinfecting system can produce "disinfection by-products" that can be harmful; however these are mostly a concern in large pools where lots of people are shedding organic material (bacteria, dead skin, etc) that forms the raw materials for these by-products. Rainwater that you're not swimming in, and that you're actively keeping new contaminants out of, shouldn't have this problem. Despite that, you can also consider a simple carbon filter coupled with a UV sanitizer; these systems are also commercially available for water sanitization in systems like yours.

Lastly, you'll need to keep the bottom of the tank relatively clear of sediment. The easiest method in an above-ground tank is to have a drain at the bottom which you can open for a short time to flush sediment. The next-easiest way is to vacuum it, just like you would a pool. Every few years you may want to drain the thing completely at the end of the dry season and give it a scrub, to clean off scaling and other build-up.


Can drywall harden or become brittle over time? Or, am I dealing with plaster? I was in the process if hanging curtains and when I was putting the drywall mounts into the wall the drywall was extremely hard and just crumbled.  Once the drywall mount hit a certain depth it just stopped.  I know there is not a stud in the wall at this spot, i checked with a stud finder.

I don't think the wall is plaster.  I even took a light switch off and looked behind it to confirm.  Maybe I'm wrong though.

Am I dealing with plaster... can the drywall harden or become brittle over time?

If it is plaster is there a good way to mount these curtains in the plaster.

If you're hanging curtains I'm going to assume that you are drilling above the window. In that case you've probably hit the lintel.

This will be either a piece of concrete or wood (depending on the construction of the house) designed to spread the load of the wall above the window around the window.

If it's concrete you'll need to use regular rawlplugs in the holes.

If it's wood you can just drill a pilot hole and screw directly into that through the plasterboard.


How do I select a color to paint various rooms in my home? What color guides are best? I am prepare to paint my "old" house rooms, to clean it up.

But I do not know how to select a color to paint my bedroom, my baby room, and other living room.

This house did not have too much light because is on base floor surround with buildings and I wish for bright colors that make people relax on bedroom.

Are there any general guides to help me out on this ? Or any sites with ideas or proposals.

I agree with ChrisF's comment that this is subjective. I doubt you'd share my love of bright fuchsia with lime green trim I have in all my rooms.

That being said, Behr's "Paint Your Place" is a tool that allows you to pick colors and add them to a picture you've uploaded to get a better idea of what the finished room would look like.


Ejector Pit & Sump Pit Combined - Whats a good backup option? Here in Chicago we have a combined sewer and storm drain system - as a result it's not uncommon to have sump pits and ejector pits combined - which is the case in my basement. The ejector then handles the sump pumping, as well as removing the basement sewage.

My ejector services the basement bathrooms and shower as well as any rain seepage from the drain tiles, but since it's a combined system I am terrified of an overflow.

The good news is that if there is an overflow, its likely to be just my home's waste & the clear storm water, but that's still enough to ruin a basement.

My question is, what backup systems would you recommend for this type of setup? The ejector is currently mains powered (plugged in), so if I lose power, I essentially have no sump pump.

I'm considering a water powered backup sump pump, but am concerned about any potential sludge or remaining waste clogging a system that is not built for any solids/semi solids.

Any brilliant ideas?

Computer UPSes are super cheap these days.  See if you can find one rated for the watts that your system needs with a good margin.  They are readily available up to 1500 less than $500, and they'd just plug in in line inbetween the equipment and an outlet.  Most of them self test every day and alarm on failure of the battery or of mains power failure so you'd know if the breaker flipped.  Make sure the one you buy doesn't do a self-shutdown when its running on battery and can't detect a load.  That used to be more common.


Voltage and Current in Domestic Wiring According to European std. The domestic supply voltage is 220 V. When an equipment of high load current rating (Such as Kettle) is turned ON, the other elements such as 40W filament lamp is dim and also when checked any socket voltage with a DMM, it shows nearly 210 volts. How this happens..? In parallel domestic wiring, the voltages across any socket will be same(220). But how the heavy load affects the main supply of 220V..?

This indicates that you have a higher resistance in the service connection than there should be. I think you should get a service call from a competent electrician.


How should a GFCI be installed according to the NEC? I am taking a National Electric Code safety class as part of an electrical maintenance certificate course. On one of my quizzes, it asks me to explain how a GFCI is to be installed and tested. I've carefully searched the NEC and have been unable to find anything about how GFCIs are to be installed. It explains where they are to be installed, but not how. This seems like a dumb question since GFCIs can be used in many applications such as circuit breakers and receptacles. Does anyone know what this is asking or if the NEC has any specifications on how GFCIs are to be installed?

The NEC isn't the right place to look for this stuff
The reason you couldn't find anything that answered this question in the NEC is stated right up front in NEC 90.1(A) (quoting from the 2014 edition, italics mine, italicized text new in 2014):

90.1 Purpose.
(A) Practical Safeguarding. The purpose of this Code is
the practical safeguarding of persons and property from
hazards arising from the use of electricity. This Code is not
intended as a design specification or an instruction manual
for untrained persons.

Instead, you want to look at the installation instructions that the manufacturer provides for a given GFCI device.  This is enshrined in NEC 110.3(B):

(B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment
shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.

However, I'm not sure if that's a sufficient answer for your quiz.  If it's not, most receptacle and deadfront devices do install similarly -- your input conductors terminate on to the LINE-side screws (black/brass is hot and silver is neutral, as usual), while loads downstream of the box can either be fed from the LOAD terminals if they need protection or from pigtails off the LINE terminals if they don't.  Grounding and pigtailing is the same as a standard receptacle otherwise.  Breaker-type GFCIs install like a breaker, but have a pigtail or clip that attaches to the neutral bar, and then an extra lug for the load neutral to land on (if you try to wire the load neutral to the neutral bar, the GFCI won't ever reset as it won't be able to "see" the current returning back from the load).
As to testing? There's one correct answer, and that's to use the TEST button on the device.  This creates a path from load-hot to line-neutral (or vice versa) through a current-limiting resistor that is a "controlled leak" for the GFCI to sense and trip on.


Best way to affix downspout to vinyl sided house? I am seriously thinking of getting a 1000 gallon tank to divert rain water for use in the garden in the dry summer months when water is most expensive where I live. I order to place the tank somewhere near a downspout and out of the way, I will have to reroute a downspout from its current straight down location to add in two elbows to divert it about 10 feet left to go where the tank needs to be.

So my question is what is the best way to affix the downspout to a vinyl sided house while keeping the siding from buckling and moisture out from where the screw will penetrate the siding and moisture membrane into the sheathing.

Honestly, I'd use nothing. The problem is if you ever remove the screw, then the hole needs to be filled. Mount the bracket high-up, tucked under a lap, so you don't buckle the siding while installing it. Check both ends of the siding for play first. Affixed in the middle with room on both sides, it should be fine. Use screws with a fully threaded shank; you're only going into plywood. They sell gasketed screws if you want to go nuts:


Porch roof support question I have a porch roof that the previous homeowner did half arsed, 4 pillars set in concrete (link fence posts). Now one side is sagging badly. My brilliant idea is to to replace the 2x4 (4) with 2x6. I have already gotten the post pillars to support the structure.
So here is my issue. Would it be best to auger out a large hole and  make a concrete pier rather than to just just pour concrete and set the posts?
I have heard old timers talk about using gravel at the bottom to help keep the post from sinking but I am wanting something a little more sturdy

Gravel will not do you any justice. It is just a cheap way to go deep in ground to get to good bearing soil if it needs to go really deep. Pole barns, for example, are built with 6X6s set in the concrete 4' deep, for a porch roof if it is small enough it won't need 6X6s but 4X4s will suffice if the roof is not too high.


How should I caulk aluminum capping where it meets brick? We recently bought a 16 year old house that has aluminum capping over the trim around the garage doors. The gap between the aluminum and the brickwork (and the wood behind the aluminum) is large enough that you can see light leaking through and feel the cold air blowing through. I would like to caulk this to keep out the cold/heat, moisture, and pests (of which we get a lot) but I'm questioning why it was never done in the first place. So, a few questions:

Is there any reason you wouldn't want to caulk these joints?
If caulking is acceptable/recommended:

What type of caulk would be most appropriate? I'm guessing silicon?
Should the caulk be placed between (sandwiched) between the aluminium and brick, or just around the perimeter (meaning, should it have been placed during installation, or can I apply from the outside as usual)?
Is there anything else I should know before undertaking this task?

For reference, here's what it looks like:

Backer rod and sealant is appropriate for joints between dissimilar materials such as that pictured in the question. Preparing the brick surface, correctly sizing the backer rod, and properly installing the sealant may all play a role in long term performance of the system.

Select the sealant for your application based on manufacturer's literature. The label on the tube often contains clear guidance.

Filling voids behind the joint with fiberglass insulation or with spray foam insulation prior to sealing may also improve thermal performance and reduce air infiltration.


What to use to seal grout in shower I have just re-newed grout (in my less than one year old shower installed by builders) that on close examination had slight cracks but never the less water got through and soaked my bedroom carpet behind my wardrobe over a 4 month period. I used Mapei grout which was recommended. How long should I wait before using the shower and is there something else I should apply to make sure this does not happen again.
Any advice would be appreciated.

If possible wait 24 hours before allowing water to hit the grout. On the bag there should be a defined time such as 6-8 hours dry time. I would advise getting some grout sealer to apply to the grout after 72 hours. Just curious what type of grout did you use sanded or unsanded? Was it pre-mixed or mix with water?


Need Help with Pool Plug The plug/electrical for my pool is connected to one circuit breaker.  I bought a new pump that only needs a regular outlet with a ground.  Does it have to be a GFI outlet if it's got it's own circuit breaker?

Yes

  NEC 2014

  — SWIMMING POOLS, FOUNTAINS, AND SIMILAR INSTALLATIONS

  680.21 Motors.

  C) GFCI Protection. Outlets supplying pool pump motors connected to single-phase, 120-volt through 240-volt branch drains, whether by receptacle or by direct connection, shall be provided with ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.

Check with your local inspections department for any requirements that they may have.


Shed panel warped, but isn't anymore I had a shed delivered two weeks ago.

It has been stored up right for a week when I noticed that some panels were bent/warped. It's now being returned and collected this week. See picture.

However the panels have now gone back to their correct shape. Is this something I should be worried about?

Eg will the warp return? Should I still get a replacement?

The panel's material,size and construction are not given. May be it is not properly seasoned wood, so could be defective when machine cut to size too soon and warped on drying as grain is not along length or had ridgalls inside. After some time it might improve with moisture change and aging, but there is no reason to keep panels of demonstrated poor quality in bending and twisting.


Supervised smoke detector I am installing a security system (Honeywell/Ademco Vista 15p), and trying to figure out an installation of a 4-wire smoke detector.

According to the installation manual (http://www.nationwidesecuritycorp.com/wp-content/uploads/FA160C-Install-Manual.pdf, section 2-6, diagram in paragraph 3). It is necessary to install an end-of-line power supervision relay. My question is what's the purpose of that relay?

Does control panel uses that relay to verify the presence of power supplied to the 4-wire smoke detector? Or is it used to verify that power to the smoke detector is removed when smoke detector is being reset?

Also, I am little confused as to how do I connect multiple smoke detectors? Do I connect them in series or in parallel?

And one more - whit's the "heat detector", and do I connect it just like other 2-wire smoke detectors?

The end of line relay is intended to make sure all the detectors have power and all detectors are present.

The wiring for each detector is such that all wires are connected IN and OUT.  At the end of the line a final device, the end of line relay, ensures the the entire circuit is powered.  Note that the IN and OUT wiring to each detector provides the supervision to the entire string.  If you were to say pigtail the wires at each detector and then only use IN terminals then each detector is NOT supervised because that wiring error allows the circuit to function with a detector removed.

For each 4-wire smoke detector, you must actually connect 8-wires to each detector. To maintain supervision you cannot shortcut this with pigtail style wiring.

Heat detectors are just simple 2 wire devices that don't require power.   While they technically  can be mixed with 4 wire smoke detectors on the same zone, for the system to remain listed you would need to use a separate zone for 2 wire heat detectors.


How do I remove stuck GU24 adapter from A socket? I was able to remove one of them from a 2-socket fixture. The other is stuck (will only rotate a couple degrees with some force). Is there some trick to removing these?

The adapter you are showing is to make an E26, edison base, receptacle into a GU24 base permanently. Note the tab on the thread side. So it's not made to be removed. These are usually installed to satisfy an energy code requirement.

Oddly enough they make an adapter to convert a GU24 back to a E26 if you would like to try that or you could replace the socket with a new one if possible by rewiring the fixture. Or you could just try working it out of the socket like the first one you did.

I know this is not much of an answer but maybe it could point you to the right direction. Good luck


When are copper pipes a ground? There is an exposed copper wire attached to the cold-water pipe near the dryer plug in my house. It's not attached to anything and I'm wondering when it would be useful if at all?

This wire just hanging next to the dryer electric outlet.  In it's current state it isn't doing anything so I would like to remove it or make it functional again.

Near the service panel there is another one of these on the cold water pipe that goes into a conduit that goes into the service panel:

OK, now that we see your edit with the pic we know better. That wire is a water bond for the electrical service. It is NOT being used as a ground, it is bonding the metallic water piping system in the house so that in the case of a live wire or component touching a water pipe the circuit breaker will trip. Can you see where it goes? It should go back to the main service panel.
To add, copper piping can only be used for circuit equipment grounding purposes in some very specific and strict instances. I can quote the code sections but suffice to say it is basically irrelevant since it is just as easy to run a proper circuit or ground to a panel box.
Long ago, like the 60's and 70's it was common to ground some circuits to cold water pipes, but this was found to be unsafe in many instances and has not been generally allowed for quite some time. It is not uncommon to see wires still attached to pipes in older homes.
Older 120/240V household electric dryers and cooking appliances were allowed to be "3-wire", using two hots and only a neutral, the equipment ground was allowed to be omitted and the neutral serving also as the ground. This "3-wire" allowance was removed from the code in the 90's.
Here is the applicable code section for dryers and ranges:
From the 2011 NEC

250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers
Frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking
units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of
the circuit for these appliances shall be connected to the equipment
grounding conductor in the manner specified by 250.134 or 250.138.
Exception: For existing branch-circuit installations only where an equipment grounding conductor is not present in the outlet or
junction box, the frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens,
counter-mounted cooking units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction
boxes that are part of the circuit for these appliances shall be
permitted to be connected to the grounded circuit conductor if all the
following conditions are met.
(1)    The supply circuit is
120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire; or 208Y/120-volt derived from a
3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected system.
(2)    The grounded conductor
is not smaller than 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum.
(3)    The
grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded conductor is
uninsulated and part of a Type SE service-entrance cable and the
branch circuit originates at the service equipment.
(4)    Grounding
contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment are bonded
to the equipment.


Is it safe to adapt a 10-30 outlet to accept 1-15 plugs? I have a 10-30 outlet (old dryer style, 240V with a neutral wire but no ground).  It's in a relatively inaccessible location where I can plug something into it, but it would be very hard to rewire the outlet.  I would like to plug some standard 120V non-grounded equipment into it, and it seems easy enough to grab a 10-30 dryer cord and use one of the hot leads and the neutral to hook up a standard 120V receptacle inside a box and terminate the other hot lead.  Are there any safety concerns with doing that, assuming I use a non-grounding 120V outlet (1-15 as opposed to 5-15)?

Thanks!

No, you can't use dryer cord as a permanent wiring method to extend from an existing dryer receptacle. Here is the pertinent National Electrical Code article, attention to (1):

400.12 Uses Not Permitted.  Unless specifically permitted in 400.10, flexible cables, flexible cord sets, and power supply cords shall not be used for the following:
(1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
(2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
(3) Where run through doorways, windows, or similar openings
(4) Where attached to building surfaces

Also, non-grounding type receptacles are only allowed to be used to replace other non-grounding type receptacles, NOT to be installed as new receptacles.

406.4(D)(2) Non–Grounding-Type Receptacles.  Where attachment to an equipment grounding conductor does not exist in the receptacle enclosure, the installation shall comply with (D)(2)(a), (D)(2)(b), or (D)(2)(c).
(a)   A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with another non–grounding-type receptacle(s).
(b)   A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of receptacle(s). These receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “No Equipment Ground.” An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle.
(c)   A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Where grounding-type receptacles are supplied through the ground-fault circuit interrupter, grounding-type receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground,” visible after installation. An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding-type receptacles.

You could arguably replace the non-grounding type dryer receptacle with a 120 volt NEMA 1-15 in that enclosure but you will have to replace the 30 amp two pole breaker with a 15 amp single pole breaker. Good luck finding a mounting strap for the receptacle though.
The safest course of action is to extend another available circuit with a ground or run a new circuit.


How should I support rectangular duct in wall? In California, I'm installing a 3x14 rectangular supply duct from my attic to my first floor. It goes vertically through the second floor wall, through the floor, and ends in the first floor ceiling.

How should I support the duct run in the wall cavity?

I usually shoot a couple of screws through the sheet metal into the studs, if you have AC I like a layer of insulation to prevent sweating and dry rot potential, but have not really seen any problems when directly attached with no insulation verticly in a wall.


How can I pour a concrete patio under my existing deck without surrounding the deck posts in concrete? I would like to pour a concrete patio under my deck.  The concrete company said they would just pour the concrete around the posts with a expansion joint around the posts.  I thought that would cause water build up around the posts since the concrete would be on top of the existing footing and not allowing the water to escape.  Also, the existing footings are uneven, with greatest difference being close to 4", so I can't just pour the concrete to the top of the footings.  See the attached picture.  Any suggestions?

Support either side of each post, cut it off, insert a steel stub base or pour a new concrete base to a height slightly above the planned slab, pour the new slab.

Or, just make sure the "expansion joint" around each post is actually around each footing, boxing out the whole area, and fill with pea stone or marble chips after pouring the slab.

Or skip pouring a slab and just put in a base for pavers and build the patio from pavers.


Should I add any additives when mixing Bifen IT Following the suggestion here, I did a little searching and found two options for bug spray: an off the shelf product or DIY. In terms of per ounce active ingredients, the off the shelf solution is about ~10 times more expensive. I'm wondering if I go the DIY route, are there any additives I should add to increase the retention/longevity of the active ingredients in the perimeter barrier, like surfactants and ammonium sulfate for glyphosate?

With credits to reddit, there are a few adjuvants to mix with Bifen:

Insect growth regulators: Pyriproxyfen (Nyguard), Methoprene (Precor).

Pesticide synergist: piperonyl butoxide (Exponent).

Wettable powders [?]


Will a hammer drill also fix screws? I’ve just purchased my first home and have many improvements to make but seem to have way too many useless tools cluttering the garage and as they are outdated I’m looking to replace them for a multi purpose tool or two. I need a tool which will be

lightweight ( weak wrists)
cordless
under 100 gbp
not pink or designed for ‘women’
It must be able to

drill holes for raw plugs and screws into a range of media but mainly interior plasterboard walls etc
drive and remove screws directly into all media  ranging from  soft wood to  medium brick to masonry
be powerful enough to drill holes and drive screws with little physical effort on my part
whip,thru flat pack with ease

be available in the uk.
have a degree of user control over speed and power.

I desperately need to get some shelving and fixed storage up on the inside of my bricked garage and a mailbox fixed to  wooden front door and fun lots of hooks to wooden fence.
Help!!!!

A 10.8V/12V battery-powered combi-drill with switchable hammer action will satisfy most of your occasional DIY light-duty tasks and will not be heavy to hold for extended use. It will probably struggle a bit with larger holes in masonry but if you only do a little of that it will be adequate.

Usually there is a three position switch:

screw-driving (with variable torque-limiting clutch)
drilling (with variable speed controlled by the trigger)
drilling with hammer action (masonry bits recommended for this)

Most drills will have a speed switch with two positions. Use the lower speed for larger drill bit sizes.

Example name-brand "pro" product available in UK for around £75, The Lidl "high performance" brad-point drill-bits are a real bargain too

If you expect do a lot of drilling into masonry, a mains-powered hammer drill is probably a better choice for a low-cost tool.


Power to fixture to switch - How to wire? I'm working on installing some recessed lighting in my basement and am looking into how to wire it. The way it is now, the power is fed to the current light fixture now and then to the single pole switch all using 14/2 Romex.

I was going to use Romex 14/2 to install the new lights and then continue it to a new LED compatible dimmer switch with the white neutral on the hot side, like I've seen in some diagrams. Upon further investigation, NEC 2011 and newer require switches to have a neutral, so the way it is wired now is not correct and that I need to wire everything from the first light fixture to the switch with 14/3 Romex.

Also, the dimmer switch I have says it doesn't need a neutral unless wiring as a 3-way switch, which I'm not.

I've asked two different people who have done some wiring before and one says to use 14/2 since that is acceptable and the other says 14/3.

Does it really matter which I use or is one more correct than another?

The current Code requires that neutral even if you don't use it

You will need to use 14/3 for the run from the fixture to the switch (called a switch loop in the trade).  This is governed by NEC 404.2(C):

  (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded
  circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be
  installed at the location where switches control lighting loads
  that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit
  serving bathrooms, hallways, stairways, or rooms suitable for
  human habitation or occupancy as defined in the applicable
  building code. Where multiple switch locations control the
  same lighting load such that the entire floor area of the room
  or space is visible from the single or combined switch locations,
  the grounded circuit conductor shall only be required at one
  location. A grounded conductor shall not be required to be
  installed at lighting switch locations under any of the following
  conditions:

  (1) Where conductors enter the box enclosing the switch
  through a raceway, provided that the raceway is large
  enough for all contained conductors, including a grounded conductor

  (2) Where the box enclosing the switch is accessible for the
  installation of an additional or replacement cable without
  removing finish materials

  (3) Where snap switches with integral enclosures comply with
  300.15(E)

  (4) Where lighting in the area is controlled by automatic
  means

  (5) Where a switch controls a receptacle load

  The grounded conductor shall be extended to any switch
  location as necessary and shall be connected to switching devices that require line-to-neutral voltage to operate the electronics of the switch in the standby mode and shall meet the requirements of 404.22.

  Exception: The connection requirement shall become effective on January 1, 2020. It shall not apply to replacement or retrofit switches installed in locations prior to local adoption of 404.2(C) and where the
  grounded conductor cannot be extended without removing finish materials. The number of electronic lighting control switches on a branch
  circuit shall not exceed five, and the number connected to any feeder on
  the load side of a system or main bonding jumper shall not exceed 25.
  For the purpose of this exception, a neutral busbar, in compliance with
  200.2(B) and to which a main or system bonding jumper is connected
  shall not be limited as to the number of electronic lighting control
  switches connected.

  Informational Note: The provision for a (future) grounded
  conductor is to complete a circuit path for electronic lighting
  control devices.

(Note that in an unfinished basement, point 2 of the above may hold, but I would still run the 14/3 cable anyway -- it's cheaper to do it right now than to fix it later.)


Should I install hardwood flooring or cabinets first? I am installing 3/4 hardwood oak nailed down to plywood sub-flooring. If hardwood flooring is installed first, wouldn't buckling of the floor be a issue since hardwood expands and contracts?

There are several factors to consider. Buckling would be the least concern if the hardwood floors are installed properly. I would lay the floors first and then install the cabinets. I have been involved in the construction of hundreds of new homes and we have always laid the hardwood floors first.

Appliances - The height of the cabinets needs to be 36 inches from the floor. The appliances will need to be the same height. Do you really want to be forced with having a lip in front of all the appliances? You would basically be sealing them in. Imagine having to pull out a refrigerator when it's boxed in with hardwood.
Labor - In relation to the appliances, you would need to place some plywood, etc. underneath the cabinets and appliances to raise them up. What would be the point? Both options probably cost about the same.
Leaks - Imagine an unnoticed sink leak. If water runs under that flooring you will definitely have some buckling issues to deal with. A sink leak on a hardwood floor would be bad anyway, but you would be creating an easier way for the water to enter underneath the hardwood.
Insects - Roaches love cracks and crevices. You would be creating a welcoming environment for all manner of insects given the warmth and moisture from your appliances.
Remodeling - Hardwood flooring will outlast the cabinets. You might also want to change cabinets someday for a different style. You will be faced with having to go back with the exact size cabinets.


Help wiring occupancy sensor I had a Lutron Maestro MS-OPS2 occupancy sensor wired in a small handy box and it worked fine. Here is a photo of how it was wired then:

Since the box was too small and I wanted to put a finished steel cover plate over it, I replaced it with a bigger box. The problem is that the sensor won't function at all after I rewired everything. I have both black wires going to the black wires on it, and the green/bare together going to the ground. Here is a photo with the old switch back in place, which operates the lights without a problem:

Here is a photo of the occupancy sensor I am using. Any help here as to what is wrong would be great. Thanks!

You used the wrong clamp, so the grounding path is broken

The particular occupancy sensor you are using uses the rather ugly kludge of sending its operating current back "home" via the equipment ground, rather than the neutral.  This worked in the old setup because you were using a proper multi-barrel connector to bring the type AC cables into the box, which provided a grounding path back to the panel.

When you put the new box on, though, instead of reusing the old multi-barrel connector, you misused a NM-type clamp to clamp all the wires in.  As a result of this, the armor on the AC cables did not extend into the clamp, leaving the grounding path to this box broken, which is a serious safety issue atop the fact it broke your occupancy sensor.

What I would do is put a duplex (two barrel) AC/MC connector in the existing top center knockout and use it for the type AC cables, then move the NM clamp to the top right knockout in the box and run the NM in that way instead of trying and failing to cram all three cables into the same clamp.  It would also be a good idea, since you have neutral at the box, to use a sensor that can use it instead of relying on a hack: Lutron's MS-OPS6M2N-DV will do the trick here instead of the MS-OPS2 you are using right now.


Extra insulation for panes of aging windows The original windows on my 30-year-old house are insulated pretty well around the frames, but the panes themselves transmit a lot of cold air, especially when things drop down into the single digits, as they are already this winter.  I'd like to replace most of them this Summer, but until then...

I know there are plastic wraps and such that can be applied around the frame to create an additional air pocket between the pane and the room, but do they actually work?

Are there any other techniques that I should try to keep my window panes from seeping in so much cold air?

I've used the plastic window stuff before (literally just finished putting up some a few minutes ago) and it works quite well. Another option to look into is storm windows, they go a long way to helping keep a house warmer.  You can purchase storm windows in standard sizes at the usual hardware stores, or order custom fit ones if they don't have the ones you need.

There are also weatherstripping products you can get for your windows.  Wired currently has a decent overview of what your options are.


Leveling first row of CMUs on uneven slab So I may have a couple to many beers when pouring the slab for my new outdoor fireplace, and "forgot" that I needed to pour it level and not follow the slop of the patio.  Whoops...

https://ibb.co/z5bhkc6

https://ibb.co/gmbS9Nj

I bought a concrete grinding disc for my grinder and am about to set out on a marathon of correcting my mistake, but before I inhale clouds of concrete dust, I figured I'd ask the brain trust if they had any other ideas of how to level this without spending hours grinding my mistake away.  FWIW, this isn't under the main fireplace, its on one of the wings which will be the firewood holder box area and will have two courses of CMUs to build it up to box height.  The motor I'm using is rated to 1/2" height so I only have about 2 1/2-3" to make up :-(

Starting at the highest corner or spot, and level from there.

It can be done a few ways, first you could set the first 2" block far enough from the high side so that it is level with a thin setting bed under it, and fill the rest of the area that is too thin, with masonry cement.

Or you could set the 2" block at the highest side, using enough mud to run it level, until there is enough drop to add 4" block to keep it level.

Another way is to figure out the amount needed to cut off of each block, so a relatively uniform level/layer of mud is under each block. This way may look the best if there is no other surface to be applied to the block to hide the build up.


Direct buried service wire from house to shop what type of wired i need to wire my shop for 120/240 single phase buried about 200' from the house? I plan a 60amp main breaker in the shop. Will 2-2-4 stephens aluminum urd cable be okay?

Actual load is needed to calculate voltage drop, but at a full 240v 60A load #2 aluminum should be adequate to only experience 3% voltage drop, which is the maximum voltage drop recommended by the NEC for a feeder.
There is some small risk of load imbalance causing a larger voltage loss. If by chance you randomly more than 30A of loads to just one leg your voltage drop could exceed 3%.
You do need 4 wires, two hots, a neutral, and a separate ground for a 120/240v feeder.


How to convert a door into a window My home has an old exterior door that used to be the front entrance. An addition has made it obsolete and we never use it anymore. I want to convert it into a window. How can I do this in a way that looks nice?

My home has 30 year old vinyl siding on it, so finding an exact match was a no-go.

A Google search only yielded me the opposite scenario, window-to-door. Ideas with pictures would be awesome.

You need to reframe this opening with a bottom plate, window sill, and cripples.

Remove the existing door and trim all the way back to the header, jack studs, and subfloor.
Install a new bottom plate on the subfloor with a foam weather stripping between to prevent drafts.
Install cripple studs at 16" intervals that continue the stud spacing outside of your window framing. Locate a few studs to either side of the window frame with a stud finder and install the cripples at a continuation of this spacing. You also want one on each end of the sill, screwed into the jack studs. For now, only install the two cripples on each side.
Install the sill on the cripples and screw it to each cripple and into the jack studs. Install the other cripple studs, ensuring that they are plumb and that any bowing is the same direction, preferably bowing out.
Install an exterior sheathing over the new framing. This should be nailed about every 10" or so, more on the edges, and you can get away with smaller nails (I believe we only use 8 penny nails for this).
Install a house wrap moisture barrier (e.g. Tyvek) and use a house wrap tape to seal it to the existing barrier.
Install a rubber seal around the bottom of the window opening. It should overlap on top of the house wrap and extend up each side slightly.
Install the new window. This should be sized for your rough opening, and you should have cut your cripples for the height of this window with an allowance for shimming the window and installing trim. Make sure the window is level and plumb. A new-install window will be screwed into the outside of the house while renovation windows are screwed into the side. I'd go for the new-install style if you have the space after removing the old door frame and trim.
Install a rubber seal around the sides and top of the window starting the sides and then the top plate. You cut the top corners of the house wrap at 45 degree angles. The sides are installed top of the house wrap, but go underneath the cuts in the top corners. The seal goes under the vapor barrier at the top. This ensures that any water behind the siding runs way rather than into the house. Use house wrap tape to seal the cuts and top of the house wrap.
Caulk any cracks or joints. Place insulation into the wall under the window, with a vapor barrier facing inside your home.
Install drywall, mud and tape the seams. It's best if you avoid joints in the corners of the window, which you can do by cutting back the drywall to the next stud on each side.
Install trim and siding on the outside. Caulk the edges and paint. Advice on what type of siding will go best falls into decorating advice (off-topic per the faq).
Install a trim box around the window opening, loosely fill any spaces with insulation, and then install trim between the window box and drywall. Caulk and fill any nail holes.
Sand and paint.


How do I run a wire underground to an outdoor post lamp? I live in Geauga county Ohio. My question is three part. First what type of wire do I need to run from the house underground to a post lamp 100 feet away? Second,does it need to be in conduit and thirdly, how deep does it need to be?

According to NEC table 300.5, for using a branch circuit of 120V and not more than 20A, with GFCI protection:

If it's under 2" thick concrete or equivalent, then depth = 6" and you can use direct burial-rated -- i.e. type UF -- cable, or run in a conduit
Under a driveway (for 1-2 family homes), depth = 12"
Under lawns (and anywhere except streets, buildings, parking lots), depth = 12" for direct burial-rated cable, or 6" in a metallic conduit


Strong intermitent sewage smell in bathroom, possible broken underfloor pipe I am experiencing a strong smell of "sewage" in my bathroom (and sometime outside the side of the bungalow next to bathroom). This smell is intermittent and NOT linked to use of toilet for #2's.

To complicate things the bathroom has a 2 - 3 feet void underneath the tiled floor.  The floor is not tiled underneath the bath.

My 11 year old bath has a "coating" of something on the base of it (some sort of insulation?), could this be causing a smell, as when I take the panel off there is a smell?

Although your question is not detailed or specific enough to provide definitive answers, you should do these things:

Check the void space that you mentioned for signs of a sewage leak
Have a plumber run a camera down your branch and main sewer lines to check the integrity
Check your vent lines to ensure they are not plugged or restricted
Check for a drain that is not frequently used (like a hidden floor drain) and run some water down it to establish a seal in the trap if necessary)

Consider this:

It is not uncommon for drain flow(s) from another appurtenance to cause a siphon action in a tub or sink drain, resulting in sewer gases/odors entering the room. This is caused by inadequate venting and there are methods to abate it, call a plumber.


Can I pipe roof and sump water into an unused shallow well? My building has some issues in the basement with water coming in through the walls. In order to improve drainage, can I pipe roof run-off and my sump pump into an unused shallow well? My lot is fairly flat. Could this cause water quality issues for the surrounding area?

I live in Indiana, USA.

You can, but it is considered an injection well and is regulated by law:

  In the United States, injection well activity is regulated by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and state governments under the Safe Drinking Water Act (SDWA). EPA has issued Underground Injection Control (UIC) regulations in order to protect drinking water sources.

You actually have to get a permit and meet specific conditions in order to operate. Not doing so is actual a violation of federal law. The reason for this is you are putting contaminated surface water into the aquifer, and potentially contaminating the drinking water of anyone else connected to that aquifer.

This would be considered a Class V well:

  Class V wells are those used for all non-hazardous injections that are not covered by Classes I through IV. Examples of Class V wells include stormwater drainage wells and septic system leach fields.

You should read up from the link above and on the Minimum Requirements for Class V Wells.

If you aren't willing to do all this (because french drains are much simpler..), you should abandon the well. I can't find EPA regulations on this, but here in Ontario, Canada you're actually required to abandon unused wells under the Ontario Water Resources Act, and I'm sure the EPA has similar requirements about unused wells. Well Aware has a good page on Decommissioning  unused wells.


S bar 4 head light fixture 1 head not working I have a 4 head S bar light fixture that uses 50W halogen bulbs. One of the heads is not working. I have ohmed the wiringing to the head and the wires are fine. I have tried multiple bulbs that work in another head and they will not light when in this head. The sockets are the two post insert and twist to lock. Any suggestion on what it might be will be appreciated.

As spoken above, I can only assume that the individual socket is bad.  I would look for a replacement.


How should I remove these taps I have a leaking tap, but I’m unsure how to get these taps off. I’m conscious of not using too much force in case I’m doing it wrong and just damage the tap

That looks like a MOEN faucet, I have the same type. If you are the original owner of the faucet they will usually supply parts and advice free. To remove the handle, twist the vertical round part between the horizontal handle and the sink. It will unscrew and reveal the inside parts that you need to replace.


Insulating a thin-walled dormer When I had my roof redone, we discovered that the nails they were using to put up the plywood base for the new roofing went through the sides of my dormers. Apparently those surfaces are a single board thick.

That's not a lot of area, but it's still almost completely uninsulated surface. And I can't afford to steal too much space back.

Best thought I've had would be to put up foam insulation with wood trim around the edges that face into the room, use that to secure plasterboard over the face of the foam (for fire safety as well as for appearance), then mud/paint to merge it into the existing surfaces. That'd steal an inch or two from the width of the dormer space, but would help that surface.

Reasonable? Better answers?

(The end and ceiling/roof of the dormer seem to be normal framing. I'll deal with that if/when I'm ready to attack the place with blown-in.)

A Radiant Barrier would be an alternative to insulation in terms of reducing heat flow. It does not depend on the thickness of material, just the barrier facing an airspace. If the interior and exterior surfaces of the dormer are not thermally coupled, this would help to reduce heat conduction and also improve efficiency.


Should I fill my crawlspace drainage trenches before putting down a moisture barrier? I recently purchased a house by Lake Erie which has a crawlspace foundation. There are existing drainage trenches throughout it dug into the hard clay, which all drains to a sump pump. These trenches are not maintained, and have built up over time with debris and now have standing water.

As part of my renovations, I plan to lay down a moisture barrier and seal the crawlspace as best I can. I was recommended to fill the existing drainage trenches with crushed stone, but after getting a quote for how much that would cost I am now wondering how necessary that is. What are the downsides of just leaving the existing trench system, and laying the moisture barrier over top of it? The crawlspace would be almost never accessed.

I think you want to insure good drainage under the plastic sheeting. I don't think it's a good idea to leave the channels to fill or to collapse.

At some point work in the crawl space might be required to repair plumbing and hidden channels under plastic sheeting might cause problems.

Flexible porous plastic drainage pipe in the existing channels might be a better solution than crushed rock. It would be very lightweight and easier to install.

I have seen advertisement for porous rubber block system that claims this system to be superior to "French drains". These blocks would presumably not need filling on top, but might be stiff and hard to get into the crawl space.

Both of the above would probably require the channels to be cleaned out and maybe deepened a little.