Is this a bad tile work? what can we do to improve it? Our contractors have almost finished the tile work in our half-bath. I noticed there were large gaps between the wall and the tiles. They are very noticeable. (Please see the pics.)
The gap,  the tile and molding of the doorway is also very large. The contractor told me that it  was because our wall wasn't even and he would put caulking to fill the gaps.
I'm wondering if using caulking to fill the gaps between the tiles and walls is  the right way?
Is there an alternative solution to make it better?

Without something for scale it's hard to tell but it looks about right based on the gaps between other tiles. It's a good call to use caulking on the gaps between the wall and the tile as it allows for some movement. If you were to use the grout it would likely crack at some point.


Install wood panel in concrete ceiling I would like to install a 30 x 60 inches wood panel (1 inch thick) in the ceiling. Not sure how much this wood panel alone would weight. Looking for suggestions of what kind of wood to use.
The idea is to leave a gap between the ceiling and this wood panel so wires can pass through, if necessary.
This will act as a second ceiling, so we can hang things and occasionally being able to replace the panel for a brand new installation (therefore not needing to drill new holes in the ceiling). The things we will hang will change - we will install some lights and plants, but one day it might be replaced by a projector, Christmas stuff, etc. If the wood panel gets too used, it would be replaced by a new panel (simply removing the existing panel, and putting the new one with no new holes in the ceiling). I'd say items to be hang will be around 30 pounds (lbs).
Is there a standard math/formula or expertise you can give me to know:

How many anchors I need? Two (one each side)? Four (one each corner)? Five (each corner plus center?)
What anchors are recommended taking into consideration that we want to be able to replace the panel occasionally (therefore removing and reinstalling the anchors with no new holes)?

I'm not concerned about estetics yet, it's easy to do later (thin painted wood to create a box).
Thanks for any help!

Four anchors are adequate if:

They're substantial enough to secure the load to the ceiling, such as lag screws with expanding shields
The plywood is rigid enough to handle the span (you could place the anchors at the 25% points lengthwise to reduce span)

Otherwise, use six or eight screws. It's hard to say more without more detail about your situation, such as type of concrete. Some general advice:

If you're able to drill 5/8" holes, lag shields are a sure bet
If not, #12 or #14 screws in plastic anchors should do well if everything is sized properly
I'd use 3/4" plywood. It's less likely to warp and will be rigid enough. You could get away with 1/2" or 5/8" with six or more anchors.

Followup questions from comments:

I didn't use any math. Math isn't great here because it makes all kinds of assumptions, many of which depend on your carpentry prowess. For example, if you use the wrong size screws in plastic anchors you'll cut holding power by 80%, and if you run screws too deep in plywood you reduce its hold by about the same. If the integrity of the concrete isn't there it's all out the window anyway. I'm relying on more than three decades of professional and personal experience, but  I don't have all the information I'd need to be specific.
I think four plastic anchors are barely adequate for a 30# load in tension (as opposed to in shear, such as with wall-mounted stuff), and I'd use at least six. Again, properly sized screws, to create the required internal friction, are critical.  Test well before putting it to use. If it doesn't hold you up, it's not done well.
Screw head type doesn't much matter as long as they aren't small-head trim-type screws. Good plywood won't allow them to pull through if you barely counter-sink them flush or leave them above the surface.
To reiterate, just four corner anchors may leave you with substantial sag in the sheet. I'd move them inward somewhat to reduce span.


How do I choose more durable screwdriver bits? I recently bought a $35 cordless screwdriver that came in a suitcase with screwdriver bits. I was in shock when the Pozidriv bit splintered after screwing only 3 1-inch screws in the leg of an unvarnished wooden ladder. After the initial shock, I used the other Pozidriv sizes but not surprisingly, they all splintered after screwing a few screws. Now all the Pozidriv bits are dulled out and completely unusable.

Can anybody tell me what these screw bits are made out of so I will not make the same mistake twice ?

Any suggestions about which metal bits to buy? Do titanium-coated bits wear out soon? How soon? What about chromium-radium bits?

I think the bits as basically very low quality. When you go to your favorite store, simply buy one of the contractor grade of bits like DeWalt, Kolbalt, Irwin, Vermont American etc. Be careful what kind of jobs you tackle with your light duty screwdriver. I'm sure it does not have the power to drive longer screws into hard woods like decking etc. You have to hold a lot of force against the screw in these situations or the bit will slip, spin and dull, as well as strip out the screw head.


Why is my solid oak entry door cracking? We just bought a custom oak front door in June. It’s December of the same year and it’s cracking. I used tung oil to seal it. Applied 3 coats in June and again in October. Everything I’ve read about tung oil says it’s a superior exterior product because it cures. So is it a door issue? Should we contact the company?  I understand doors expand with weather and humidity, but there’s are cracks large enough to see through and feel cold air coming in.

Solid wood doors with panels are to be constructed so the panels float in their groove (dado) or perhaps the panels are held in place by an applied molding. Regardless of panel construction, or other types of joinery used in door construction, the panels are not to be fastened in place. They will expand and contract. Because of this, with some makers that pre-finish their doors, the panels are finished before installation in the door. On larger panels, since the possibility of a panel shrinking so much that an edge may fall out of the dado, one single fastener is placed in the center of the panel so the movement will be divided up at both sides, instead of possibly moving all from one side.

There is a chance that any finish you have applied may have "bridged" the gap, and sort of glued the panels in place so they will not move, and therefore cracked.

If I remember right, tung oil is a great finish for furniture, easy to apply, can be touched up easily. For doors as long as they do not get wet from rain  or snow melting on them, the finish should not fog up.


Surfactant bleed through I have a bathroom in our 1930's house that doesn't have an exhaust fan...and two teenage boys who take ridiculously long steamy showers. We had some mold issues on the ceiling, and some of the ceiling paint was cracking anyway, so I set about fixing things. I scraped all the old paint away back to the plaster. I primed with Zinsser Perma-White mold resistant primer, then painted with two coats of Zinsser ceiling paint. Looked great.
But now every week or so I walk in there to find these gross, sticky orange dots all over the ceiling. They wipe away and leave no stains, but they look awful.
Googling seems to indicate these are surfactants from the paint? Is that consistent with your experience?
I'm planning on putting in an exhaust fan in the spring... have to penetrate the brick exterior and don't feel like doing that when it's freezing outside... which I hope will help, but is there anything else I can do to stop this?
Update: here's a picture of the ceiling after a week of no one using the shower at all

If the orange anomaly's are produced from the paint  it may not be dried enough. If so once it has dried completely it should be impervious to moisture.
If it is indeed surfacant's, as someone suggested I would think their source would be from steam laden with soap or shampoo. These two common cleaners are usually produced with surfacant's. Meaning they contain substances that enable the breakdown of oil (if I remember High School Chem 101 correctly).
Either way the solution is venting. While waiting for fan have the boys crack the window before they exit the room.


Are hairline cracks in basement concrete floor a problem - no water coming in I notice quite a few hairline crack in my basement concrete floor. I've lived here for 14 years and no water has come up through the cracks. The townhouse was built in 1999 (so it is not a new pour). I don't know if the cracks have been getting worse or not; I just didn't notice them before, but maybe they were always there. Is this something I should get fixed (how)? Or is it possible that they won't get any worse and water is unlikely to ever come in, if it has not come in yet.

Concrete slabs crack. Period. For this reason, "control joints" are often cut or tooled into slabs where aesthetics are a concern. They encourage cracks to occur along straight lines where they create less of a visual blemish and can better be accommodated by expansion joints in rigid flooring.

In your case, it's not likely a concern.


Should I replace my 36 year old copper house wiring with UF-B? I want to replace all of the wire in my house and in the light fixtures because my house is 36 years old and I think It's time the wire gets updated and upgraded

I currently have 14/2 wire throughout all of the outlets and lighting in the house ( unknown type ), and 18 Gauge running into the fixtures, I'm wanting to upgrade to 12/2 wire so i don't have to worry about high resistance causing high heat with newer technology but I'm lost on what type of wire to use. NM-B, UF-B, THHN, PLTC, THWN I do not want to go cheap, I've heard aluminum wire is bad and it's better to go with copper... I want it to with stand heat, or If any leaks occur throughout the years in an outlet by the window or the wiring in the ceiling

Would UF-B be appropriate for walls and ceilings even though it's rated for underground or outside use?

United States

In most locations, at least in the US and Canada, houses were wired in 1982 with NM cable (Romex) very similar to the NM used today.  That stuff seems to be holding up pretty well, except where it's exposed to excessive heat, sometimes in a light fixture.  But I don't know anyone that says that that wire is due for an update.

If you want to replace anything, your panel and breakers would be the first thing I'd consider.  Breakers do have a limited life span, and if you're going to replace the breakers, it may or may not be worth replacing the panel too - something to look at.

If you have money to burn and just really want to upgrade your wiring whether you need it or no, without question, I'd go with EMT conduit.  That would be a huge job but conduit is forever.  If you find a buyer that appreciates a good overbuilt system it may add value to your home.  It sounds excessive to anyone from anywhere else, but all homes in Chicago are done in conduit.  I have come across a few small apartment buildings / triple-deckers done in conduit.  If you want to go even further into eccentric multimillionaire territory, you could do it all in rigid conduit, but that could cost more than the house.

If you're going to overbuild a bit and go with conduit, I bet you'll also want a bolt on panel.


Humidity Level for Bamboo Flooring What are appropriate humidity levels for bamboo flooring post-installation? I've heard that most hardwoods are good between 35-50% humidity but have been unable to locate anything specific to bamboo.

A quick Google search found me this web page:

http://www.bamboo-flooring.com/bamboo-floor-maintenance.html

  14 Maintain relative humidity. Using a dehumidifier or humidifier to maintain relative humidity in the home at 30-50% will maintain the moisture level in the wood and help minimize cracks between the boards. Continued excessive humidity can cause swelling of the floor. Continued lack of humidity (below 20%) can cause shrinking of the planks and/or cracking of the bamboo strips.


Why does my Central A/C Keeps Blowing its Fuse? For years, my A/C condensing unit has blown a fuse once, maybe twice a year.  It's 27 years old now and blew a few fuses last spring.  Now it blows a fuse every few days.  So, I replaced a bad running capacitor on the compressor and replaced a leaking capacitor on the condenser fan motor, still blows fuses every few days.  Dangdest thing is that it has a very respectable amperage reading - 20 amps on each leg (it's 220v) even when it's very hot (105 degrees outside) and the fuse only blows in the evening when the temperature has gone down for the day! I thought that maybe it blew a fuse when cycling off and on, so, I tried just operating the A/C manually (turning it off when the inside temp was comfortable and on when I wanted some cooling) - still blows a fuse.

I now wonder if the problem is with the fuse box or power supply.  It is typical that after a day or two of replacing a fuse, the new fuse darkens - it still works, but can get quite dark.  A blown fuse will be really dark and the nice clean copper is pretty scorched.  I cleaned off the contacting surfaces of the fusebox and tightened the wires down.

I'm now suspicious of a possible occasional voltage drop in our power supply.  Wouldn't that spike the amps to my A/C unit and burn a fuse?  A few weeks ago the power company installed a box to monitor power quality right outside my house.  When I asked them what they were doing they informed me about monitoring the power and then asked me if I noticed lights flickering and so on.

I thought I might monitor voltage last night to see if I might catch a drop (wishful thinking I guess).  But anyway, just using a 120v receptacle, the volts were 120.0 volts to begin with, 118.8 volts when the A/C came on, went down to 117.4 volts, then ranged between those last two numbers 'till I turned the A/C off an hour later.  Then the reading was 120.9.  First thing in the morning, the voltage was 123.0 volts  So, there's quite a swing in voltage - I imagine that's normal, but I don't know.  I'm up a hill, at the end of the power line in a city area.

Here's the particulars of my A/C condenser - it's a 1985 Sears 3.5 ton (NCABA42AB01) - full load on condenser= 21.5 amps time delay fuse called for is 30 amps and that's the fuse I keep replacing.

Anybody have any ideas - poltergeist, maybe?

Update:  It just blew a fuse again - mid day this time.  I noticed that the fuse box was really hot - I measured it with an infrared thermometer - 220 degrees F!  The condenser unit was buzzing, only one fuse blew - the other looks fine.  I'm thinking I need to replace the fused disconnect.

Long-term darkening of a fuse on a high-draw circuit like an AC is not unusual. However, darkening as quickly as you have described means the fuse is operating right at its limit for too long.

The first thing I would do is call an electrician and have the fuse replaced with a breaker. At least that way you don't have to touch a hot fuse to replace it. They may also find a problem with the wiring (corrosion or a break) that could explain your problem.

Next is I would buy/borrow a multimeter that has an amp clamp on it. Measure the current used by various parts of your system (blower motor, compressor, condenser fan) as well as the main power feed to find out how much current you are pulling. This may help you identify which component is causing the problem.


Need help with wiring a combination two way switch I'm trying to swap out an existing two way combo switch with a new. When I pulled it out, the right side terminals had three wires. Two black and a red. On the left side there was one black. My new outlet only has space for two wires on the right and left. How do I wire properly? Thanks, new here

You need to return the switch you got and get a single-pole/3-way combination switch instead of a single-pole/single-pole
Your existing combination switch has a normal single pole switch on the top and a 3-way (two location) switch on the bottom, while it sounds like your new switch consists of two single pole switches, which won't help you with your garage light very much.  So, as you are suspecting, you'll need to take it back and get the correct thing; fortunately, it shouldn't be that much harder to find.
As to how this was wired
The good news is that we can identify the functions of the old wires from here.  Clearly, since the black wire on the left is shared between both halves of the old switch, it must be the always-hot feed in.  From the terminal screws on the right,  the top one is connected to the black switched-hot for the light controlled by the top (single-pole) switch, while the bottom two screws connect to the black and red wires that serve as the travellers to the garage light.
You'll need to remember what these wires do, though, since the positions of the screws on the new switch isn't going to help you any, only the fact that the common screws on said replacement will be a different color.  Also note that NEC 404.9(B) permits snap switches to be grounded by their screws, so don't worry about running a grounding pigtail to your switch.


Can 1 24v transformer support 2 smart thermostats. I replaced my old thermostat with a lyric. My doorbell transformed was unused and 16 V. I replaced that with a 24 and wired it directly to my lyric. Everything works great.

If I do an additional thermostat in a different zone can I just add more wire to that existing transformer? Will multiple devices on the 24v cause issues?

Thanks

I have run multiple thermostats and even a 24v damper off a single transformer.  Most thermostats are very low draw but to make sure look up the power requirements for each and add them together. Now compare that to the transformer wattage/ amperage. If less is needed from the 2 stats than the transformers rated output you are good to go. If the same or more than the transformers output you can get a larger single or another smaller transformer (usually cheaper) and have 1 for each stat.


What are these devices outside my patio door? I have these two devices outside my patio door and I have no idea what they are or what they are used for.

The one on the left is a remote thermohydrometer. It reads the air temperature and humidity and transmits the data to a weather station.

The one on the right could be a similar device, or else a short-range transmitter that repeats one of your utility meters so the meter man can read it from his van as he drives by.

You should do a network search (eg Google) for the words written on the device.


What are the connections on this German TV socket? I live in Germany. I have zero knowledge in TVs. I found a TV socket in the wall but I have no idea what it means.

My questions is: can you please explain to me what does each port in the socket does?

Here I attach a picture for the socket:

EDIT: Is it called DVB-T?

can you please explain to me what does each port in the socket does?

In your photo they are labelled DATA, TV, R

So it is reasonable to assume

Some kind of Internet connection.
A TV antenna.
A Radio antenna.

Nowadays the TV signal is likely to be DVB-T. The antenna and coaxial cable and connectors are the same as for the old analogue PAL signals. It is possible that it is DVB-S from a satellite dish. I'd ask the building manager (if there is one).


How do you open this fluorescent light fixture? The blubs have flickered and gone out on this light in my kitchen.

How can I open this fixture? I have taken one of the plates off but I wasn't sure is that was the right place to look. I heard a lot of these are clipped on and/or slide. Could that be the case with my fixture?
Here is an image of the open side panel:

First, Are you entirely sure this is a fluorescent fixture and not an integrated LED fixture?   Because it's awfully, awfully thin for a fluorescent.   The only tubes I can imagine even having a chance of fitting are T5s (5/8" diameter).
However, fluorescent fixtures never require tools to get the tubes out.  IF this was fluorescent - and it's very much my hunch that it is not - you would push upward a little bit (1/8" or so) along one of the long edges (either one) and then slide it toward the edge, making the other side pop out, i.e.

However I wouldn't do a whole lot of pushing.  If this doesn't happen easily, the next step is to presume it's a bulbless LED, and search it for a model number or identifying marks, so you can search for that and see if it is.
What's the deal with bulbless LEDs?  Isn't that bad?  Sure, I get it. We all grew up our whole lives with every type of lightmaker - incandescent, halogen, fluorescent, HID - all having the bulb as the weak link/consumable. So it's hard to believe that with LEDs, the lightmaker is actually the most durable part.  But it is silicon electronics - and when's the last time you changed a transistor on a stereo or TV? But vacuum tube TVs and stereos required changing them all the time - to the point where historians/purists had to learn to make their own vacuum tubes!
Now, the weak points are in the electronic power supply that converts AC power into the correct current of DC for the LEDs.  Cheap components (notably capacitors), solder (RoHS lead-free solder that crystallizes; many PCB problems these days are cured by running the board through a solder reflow) and other electronics-side stuff - but not the LEDs proper. Those will outlive all of us.
Of course this is cold comfort if your fixture is kaput.  Most of us don't want to pull down LED fixtures and carefully identify the constant-current electronic driver and find another one of the same form-factor.  So it's down to replace the whole fixture - and learn the lesson that the supplier isn't very good.
Given the way our markets are being flooded with cheap junk (especially Amazon!!), this type of failure is shamefully common.  I myself have chosen to stay with real fluorescent, because a GE ballast and Sylvania tubes are safe choices.


How to safely put mirror tiles on the ceiling? I'm looking to put some mirror square tiles of 30x30cm and the weight of 700gr on the ceiling. How can I safely do that? I want to avoid mirrors falling due to plaster removing.

A good coat of construction adhesive should do the trick if your plaster has good adhesion to the drywall underneath, and it flat enough for you to get a lot of contact surface. I would test this though and try to pull one down after it has cured. You will have to temporarily support the tiles with clips or something while it cures though.

Another option would be to use thinset tile adhesive and mount them just like regular glass tiles would be. You would apply thinset to the ceiling and the tiles with a notched trowel, and also pull one off after you set it to ensure you are getting near 100% coverage. It would be strong, but again, limited by the adhesion of the original plaster to the ceiling drywall.

You also might be able to use some kind of clip that is mounted using drywall anchors. This would provide the most piece of mind I imagine, especially if you are sleeping under it. Something like this tongue and groove board clip:


What's the best way of replacing a plug or switch in a house with aluminum wiring? My house has aluminum wiring, which from what I understand isn't recommended any more. How do I replace a plug or switch since the new unit only takes copper wiring?

There are two ways to do it:

Use CO/ALR switches/receptacles: these are specifically designed for aluminum wire. They have "CO/ALR" stamped on them somewhere. When you connect the wire, use a paste like Noalox (box stores sell it).
Use a pigtail connection: Sometimes it is not possible to find CO/ALR switches with the function or style you need. You can use a copper wire to connect to the switch itself as usual, and then a #63 wire connector to connect the copper wire to the aluminum one. Here is a picture of a 3-way dimmer switch I installed using this method:

(apologies for fuzzy picture)

Note that you do the same thing with switches that have wires coming out of them already (like most dimmer switches do) or any other fixtures.

To quote from the ESA (Ontario Electrical Safety Authority)'s Notice on Aluminum wiring in residential installations:

  Even though not required by the Code, it is
  recommended that bare ends of solid aluminum conductors be coated with approved joint compound.

  ...

  The Ontario Electrical Safety Code permits the installation of aluminum wiring.
  Adequate precautions shall be given to the terminations and splicing of aluminum conductors;
  Aluminum wiring itself is safe if proper connections and terminations are made, without damaging
  the wire and devices approved for use with aluminum wire are employed.
  Aluminum wiring is widely used today for larger commercial and industrial feeders. Electrical distribution companies use it widely throughout their distribution systems including the supply service cable to most residences; in fact it may still be used today for interior wiring systems in
  residential homes as well as other structures.

  ...

  Aluminum wiring itself is safe and if proper connections and terminations are made without damaging the wire and using approved materials installed in accordance with the Ontario Electrical Safety Code and the manufacturer’s instructions, there should be no problems with the aluminum wiring installation.

In either case:

Connect with #63 wire connectors.
Use the anti-oxidant paste on the wire and any other connections involving aluminum (apply to the wires before you screw on the connector).
Use a wire brush to remove any oxidation before applying paste and making the connection


Cause of misaligned patio doors I have a problem with a set of patio french doors that I can no longer lock
Upon examining them I found they are misaligned as can be seen in the below photos.

The doors are fully shut but there is a gap between the two doors as can be seen in the photos which prevents them from being flush

The gap is 1/8" at the top and increases to 3/8" at the bottom

Any ideas as to what is causing the misalignment and what must be done to correct the problem would be greatly appreciated.

It doesn't make a lot of sense that there's a gap the entire height of the door. What's preventing it from making contact?

As for the twist, one of two things is likely the culprit:

One or both of the doors is warped, due to excessive moisture and/or prolonged sun exposure. If that's the case, you'll probably just need to use extra force until it dries out. If it doesn't relax, you may need to replace the doors.
The wall has shifted, or the door frame has shifted in the wall. You'll need to apply some carpentry-foo and reset the door so that it's plumb, level, and square.

A close examination of all gaps and corners will reveal which is the problem. Post more photos if you like.


Lights won't go out with 4-way and 3-way switches in any position Switching worked until today. Removed power to circuit. Removed 4-way switch and tested for continuity, SAT. Jumpered wires on 4-way to make
3-way circuit. Turned power on and no change, lights won't turn off. Turned power off and removed all switches. Continuity SAT on 3-way switches. Installed all new switches and problem still there. The lights are fluorescent. How can ballast lights fail and override switches and stay on? This doesn't make any since to me. I have a electronic background and my electrical is very good also. This doesn't add up where the load overrides the switching source. Have you seen this type of failure before. I am very puzzled by the new switches not fixing the problem? Please help. How do I test the lights. I can remove one at a time from the circuit to determine which one is causing the problem. I thought I understood electrical wiring until now?

Update:

Thanks for your input. I live near Augusta Ga. I recently bought this home and didn't discover this issue until now. The house was built in 2004. I decided to make a logic table with switch positions to understand the issue at hand.

Basicly I found with 3-way #1 in UP, 4-way UP and 3-way #2 Down lights "OFF". Changed 3-way #1 to down position and lights "ON". Next I turned 3-way #2 UP and lights stayed "ON". First failure. Next I placed 4-way down and lights stayed "ON". Then I placed 3-way #1 up and lights went "OFF".

I will now remove all switches and verify all wiring (travelers, hot, neutral etc.). Check continuity and look for grounds. All switches are in same room about 10 feet apart from each other. The load consists of 5 sets of lights. I will make a sketch of how everything is wired together and compare it to standard wiring designs published for 3-way/4-way switching. Again thanks for everyone's input.

Jumpered wires on 4-way to make 3-way circuit

Maybe thats where you went wrong?

There are four wires: two travellers in and two travellers out. If you connected them all together it would have the effect you describe.

The middle switch in one position connects straight across. In the other position it crosses (top left connected to bottom right and bottom left to top right).

If I've misunderstood - please clarify the question. There are several ways of wiring this and practices vary from country to country or from place to place.

See Wikipedia


Split Gas Line to Gas Water Heater for Gas Dryer I'd like to install a gas dryer by splitting the gas line that currently feeds the gas water heater.  Is the solution as simple as splitting the line with a tee fitting/valve where the green arrow points?  Any other parts needed?

Stacked washer/dryer would go here:

Instead of teeing the 1/2" line where both appliances would be fed through the same section of 1/2" pipe, you would be better off installing the tee upstream, where the 1" coupling is now. This will ensure adequate gas volume to both appliances and allow you to install independent shut-offs. Yes, you will have to shut off the gas at an upstream location, maybe even all the way back at the meter.

You should take this time to eliminate the reducing bushings (I see both a 1"x3/4" and a 3/4"x1/2") as bushings are not supposed to be used on gas lines inside the home (check with your local permitting authority, but that's my understanding). I would just get rid of the 3/4" stuff completely and use a 1"x1/2"x1/2" tee and install valves with flare thread outlets to attach the flex line directly to. Iron pipe and fittings use a tapered thread, you need to get them tight for a good seal, and use thread tape approved for use on gas pipe.

If you are handy at all, you can do this job yourself (don't listen to naysayers), you are allowed to do this work on your own home in most places. Make sure you test all new fittings and those that were disturbed using "gas leak detection juice" or soapy water (little bubbles=small leak, big bubbles=big leak; NO leak is acceptable).


Attaching Christmas lights to peak of roof I'm trying to attach some christmas lights to the peaked section if this roof. The flat part is easy with gutter clips but I'm really struggling with the peak because I don't have access any higher than the flat section of roof, so I need to do it using a pole or something.

Any ideas gratefully received

If you have access to the rooftop of the lower section of roof, you can climb on the roof and access the gable from above. Using clips (e.g.: Walmart) you can subsequently use a pole to place and remove lights.
When walking on a tile roof, walk on the peaks of the tiles to reduce risk of damaging them.
Obviously care should be taken to not slip and fall off the roof.
Maybe this year you can hire a light installing company or a handyman to install the clips.


Do I really need buildup strips under laminate countertops? We have our laminate countertops for at least part of the kitchen cut and glued together (and secured with miter bolts). In looking for info about attaching it to cabinets, I found that most websites say you need to use buildup strips.

As I understand it, the reason is twofold - one, you can drill through it and into the countertop from beneath to secure it to the cabinets below, and two, you can increase the vertical clearance for the drawer fronts to open in case they might interfere.

With our countertops, there's no interference (see photos). Are there other ways of attaching the countertop to the cabinets securely without buildup strips? If not, are you just screwing the buildup strips down through the thin plywood wall of a cabinet to secure it?

Assuming you don't care if removing them will take a sledgehammer, a tube of polyurethane construction adhesive would be one "alternative method of attachment."


Can I leave drywall floating in the corners of my basement ceiling? I was planning on installing drywall on my basement ceiling and realized that I have nothing to screw the drywall on after the last joist. On one corner of the room there is 12 inches from the last joist to the wall and on another side I have about 6 inches that the drywall would be floating on.

If I just screw it to the joists and let it float in those spaces will it be an issue?
What can I do?

The overkill direction (which is actually appropriate for some circumstances, such as a ceiling that needs to hold up a lot of insulation, as for an attic above) is to run 1x3 strapping opposite to the joists. An advantage in the application I mention is that this strapping can be on 12 inch spacing, so the drywall can be attached with a screw every foot, even if the roof trusses are on 2 foot centers.

In general, it is actually advantageous to leave the edges of the ceiling to float for the last foot or so, so long as you drywall the ceiling first and the walls after, butting them up to the ceiling before screwing them in place - the wall drywall then ends up supporting the edges of the ceiling drywall, but the whole is slightly less prone to crack in the case of small building movements as there's a little give from the floating edge. Here's a reference (they also suggest using corner clips.) Scoot down to photograph 4, and you won't be surprised to find that they mention the other point of view as being commonly held. As for it being "a developing point of view" only in building would something code approved for 30 or more years (per the above reference) be "developing..." An additional reference. And another. Search on drywall floating corner cracks for more references. And one in my comment on @bib's answer from the Gypsum Association; they might just know a thing or two about hanging drywall.


underfloor heating and mold forming I'll be moving into a new house soon.

The house has underfloor heating (wet system) throughout and have been told i can't put down wooden flooring.

  wood is an insulator, it will cause condensation to build.
  And this will lead to black mold forming along the skirting boards at edge of rooms.

Is this true for modern warm houses? How can this be prevented?

It is very normal to install underfloor heating under wooden flooring, in fact in Scandinavia the majority of houses with underfloor heating have wooden floors.  Wood does insulate to a certain extent but it is no reason not to install underfloor heating. There can however be other factors such as your current floor construction that may introduce extra costs when installing the heating system that might not make it viable.


What is this plastic insert called? (Secures a wood screw to a cabinet door.) The European hinges on my kitchen cabinet doors are held in place with wood screws that anchor into plastic inserts - see the picture below.  The one on the right is cracked.  I would like to replace it but I do not know what it is called.  What are these little plastic insert/anchors called?  Thanks.

(The yellow/translucent stuff stuck on the cabinet door near the anchor on the right seems to be glue that someone else tried to use to repair the split anchor.  The anchors themselves fit in the holes, like the one on the left.)

They are called plastic dowels

There are different sizes for different brands of hinges. Also note that they take special screws.

Search hinge plastic dowels and add the brand of hinge, if you know it.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Help with Sain Smart 24V Relay Cycle Timer Module I'm considering getting one of these:

https://www.sainsmart.com/products/24v-relay-cycle-timer-module

...to force my 2nd floor thermostat to force heat on every so often (say, 1 minute every 15) to "warm the pipes" to overcome poor insulation (fixing this is not an easy option). I currently have a simple Honeywell thermostat:

https://yourhome.honeywell.com/~/media/epresence/product%20images/pro-1000-non-programmable-thermostat/th1110dv-c1-3.ashx

I'd like to wire in the above timer module so that it shorts the R (24 Vac power from heating transformer) and W (Heat relay) wires on a cycle. I have no electrical know-how. Can I simply use the 24v power from the thermostat to power the timer? And will this timer work for this purpose?

The timer manual (wiring info starts on page 6):

http://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.image.smart/download/101-30-209/101-30-209.pdf

The cycle timer you linked to seems to require 24 VDC. The thermostat will be fed with 24 VAC. Do not use that cycle timer!

You can wire a cycle timer just like a thermostat, in parallel to the existing thermostat. You can wire it near your furnace if that's more convenient; it will just connect the two conductors to call for heat at the set intervals, whether the thermostat is doing the same thing or not.

Look for one that's designed for HVAC use, e.g. https://www.supplyhouse.com/ICM-Controls-ICM305-ICM305-Duty-Cycle-Timer-Time-Delay-in-Minutes


Can I add an outside switch to exterior floodlights? I have an exterior floodlight that is switched from inside the house. I want to be able to switch it on at its outside location, as well. I don't want a motion detector light. I hope I can avoid additional wiring work. The floodlight is well protected from weather, mounted under an overhang on the outside of the house. Location is southwest USA.

You can get a remotely controlled wall switch. This comes in 2 parts.  One is a switch that replaces your current indoor switch.  The other is a remote control unit that wirelessly controls the switch.  This approach does not require any additional wiring indoors or out.  Just google "remote controlled wall switch" to see the various options available.


What cement product should I use to fix a hole in my slab? I was removing old thinset and self-leveling cement in an area in preparation to tile it when the 6" chisel and demo hammer I was using sunk in to a specific spot. I found that this specific spot had been filled with debris and had about 1" of cement poured on top of it. Quite obviously, this wasn't sufficient, and the end result was a series of cracks in this area and a hollow sound here. I removed the debris and was left with about a 2' by 3' hole. It's obvious that someone made a (bad) patch here in the past. There was even a discarded bandaid wrapper and fibers from orange shag carpeting in the hole.

There's no plumbing that I can find below and the plastic 6mil vapor barrier is in good condition with a few minor tears that could be repaired with tuck tape. There are two roots running below; they are rotting and probably belong to something long dead. There is a crack running from the door to the right of the picture to the hole. I plan to repair this crack at the same time by broadening and deepening the crack slightly and using a cement patching compound.

What product should I use to fill the larger hole? Plain ol' Quickrete, or some other form of cement? Aggregate or not? Any specific PSI ratings I should look for, or other prep work that I should do besides washing the areas that I hope the new concrete will bond to and making sure that there's enough clearance under the wire for the cement to engage it?

I would be more concerned that your wire looks to be at the very bottom of the concrete, making it useless. Concrete is very strong under compression but very weak under flex. The steel is there to take the flex and should be about center of the concrete. Definitely use a concrete bonding agent and Ditra. The Ditra will provide enough of a barrier that the cracks should not come through. Personally I would not put a huge pile of money into tile considering it might end up cracking


Why is my kitchen so humid? My kitchen is an extension of the house. Most of its walls are outside walls. It's extremely cold in winter (down to 7 degrees celcius). Its unique window seems old too.

The problem is it's very humid, to the point that mold formed at several spots. Food inside cupboards has also been affected by the humidity. (for instance sugar is not powder any more but forms pieces).

Why is it so humid? Can the possibly reduced air tightness of the old window be the culprit?

It may be an addition built on a crawl space and not a real basement.  Buildings on Crawl spaces tend to be more humid.  Single pane windows condensate alot more than double pane which will put moisture into air.
Run a dehumidifier during colder months and A/C during warmer months to pull moisture out of air.
If you have a crawl space tell me about it. Type of vents, Flooring, insulation, how much lower than grade is it? Is it damp all time? Just after rains?


Outdoor 50 amp 4-wire Outlet Install I want to install an outlet for outdoor connection of an RV. However, the location of the service entrance box is close to a inside corner of the exterior of the house so the easiest location is on the same external wall as the service box and will require a hole through the brick wall near the service entrance entry conduit. The outlet would have to be in close quarters since the wall is only about 2 feet wide so the entrance conduit goes perpendicular at the center of the wall plus other wires and entries are in the same area. I want to run the outlet wire out through the brick about half way between the conduit and the corner directly into an external surface mounted box with a 120 volt outdoor circuit for utility purposes on a separate wire passed through the same conduit through the 220 box to the 120 box.
Is there anything questionable or incorrect about that installation method, or something I should be concerned about with it?

You're on the right track

Since you have a suitable panel, and enough spare space in it, I would go for what you describe, using 3 6AWG wires for the 50A/240V circuit and 2 12AWG wires for the 120V circuit (as well as a 10AWG ground, if you're in plastic conduit that is).  You'll want to use a GFCI breaker at the panel for the outdoor 120V circuit, by the way, as that keeps it safe from the weather, vs a GFCI receptacle outside which can get affected by water that leaks into the receptacle box.

If you're going to do this using cables, then you can use 8/3 on a 40A circuit or 6/3 on a 50A circuit for the 240V receptacle, with a 12/2 extending into the 240V receptacle's box and spliced there to some 12/2 UF or two 12AWG THWNs in conduit to connect to the 120V receptacle.


How do I repair a chipped bathtub? Possible Duplicate:
  How do I patch rusty spots in bathtub?

I have a tub upstairs with a chip in it. Is there an easy way to sand the porcelain down and redo the tub? What would be the most professional way to fix the tub?

If the chip is small home centers sell a product similar to touchup paint.I have only seen it in white though and it is for steel or cast iron tubs.


How to prepare vertical brick surface so Portland cement based mixtures (concrete, mortar) will adhere properly? I have a sub grade vertical stack of perforated brick (foundation) which I need to coat in a thick layer of mortar or concrete in order to fill gaps, creating a flat surface for subsequent painting/hydro isolation.
Besides cleaning the brick, what else should I do to prepare them as a substrate?

Make sure that they are neither bone-dry nor dripping wet, either of which interferes with getting a proper bond. Damp is good. Recall (or learn) that mortar and concrete do not, as commonly misnomered, "dry" to set, they hydrate to cure, in a chemical reaction where crystals grow throughout the mass, and that needs water to work. A common problem with casual brickwork is excessively dry bricks that suck the water out of the mortar and prevent it from curing properly.
There is also a matter of technique to get mortar to stick to a vertical surface - it wants to be thrown or slapped on and spread out, not applied in a tentative manner.


How to repair loose nails in a carpet threshold? Apparently the carpet in my house has been replaced a few too many times. Most of the nails are loose so the threshold is basically being held in place by hopes and wishes.
I was hoping to improve the situation. Do any of the following ideas sound reasonable? If not, is there another suggestion?

Could a longer nail be used? Do they make long nails for this application?
Could a screw be used? Do they make screws for this application?
Could I fill the hole with some sort of epoxy or filler and re-nail?

The easiest thing is likely to get a 1.5" long piece of tie wire.  Put the tie wire piece into the hole and then hammer the nail back into the hole.  The tie wire metal will allow the nail to get a secure hold in the stripped out hole.
Your threshold is fastened to the subfloor.  Really the only constraint here is the aesthetics of the fastener head in threshold.  If you are not picky about the color or appearance of the fastener head then you can use whatever will work.
Generally carpet will be 1/2" thick, your threshold is likely 1/4" higher and your subfloor is going to be ~3/4" so you want a 1.5" long fastener.
You can certainly make the hole in the metal larger to accept a larger diameter fastener and you can certainly use a screw.


Can dimmable (triac) LED bulbs be used on a motion sensor switch without neutral wire? I bought a bunch of these motion sensor switches.

I also want to use these dimmable LED bulbs.

The motion sensors do not have a neutral wire connector. My outlets only have a live wire and it would be prohibitively expensive to put a neutral wire in.

I understand that regular LEDs flicker due to the trickle power from the sensor.

I want to know if dimmable (triac-compatible) LEDs would also flicker?

Also, if I buy the dimmable LEDs and they don't flicker am I ok to use them? Or will the trickle power damage them or shorten their life?

Reading between the lines ...

Where I live, a normal domestic lightswitch works like this

 Fusebox                  Ceiling                   Switch
 =======                  =======           live    ======
   Live  ----------------------o------------->------o/ o-.
   Earth --------------------o--------------------       |
   Neutral ----------------o | o----------<--------------'
                           | | |      switched live
                           |   |
                           \/\/\
                            bulb

(At "ceiling" there is a junction box / rose where wires are joined)

Because there is no neutral in the switch backbox, there is no way to
complete a circuit there and power any active component like a PIR motion
detector.

Incandescent bulbs have a low resistance when cold and off butr develop a high resistance when hot and on.

You can exploit this feature to power a gadget in the light switch, instead of
a simple switch you add a high resistance load across the switch, this allows a small
current to pass through the incandescent lightbulb when the switch is off. This small
current is not enough to light the bulb (the wire inside is not red hot, it might glow a tiny bit though, depends on current)

     Switch
     ======
         /
 ----+-o/  o--+---.
     |        |   |
     '-/\/\/\-'   |
        PIR       |
                  |
 -----------------'

However, any kind of LED lamp is not going to have the characteristics of an incandescent bulb which are being exploited here. Your PIR motion detector is unlikely to work if the
lamp is not incandescent.

If it does work, it would be because the LED lamp's internal driver circuit can work from
lower voltages and currents - so you are likely to see some unwanted visible effects. It might be that some manufacturers use a type of LED-driver circuit that would allow your PIR switch to work but you may have to buy a lot of different LED lights to find one that does. You might never find one that does. Without knowing the internal details of the specific LED lamp it is difficult to make any predictions.

I notice that the advert you link to has a link to a  replacement part whose description says it does work with LEDs. It is reasonable to infer the vendor is aware that the discontinued one does not.

Note on terminology:

Your Q was hard for me to understand because you are using terms in a way that is non-standard (at least in my part of the world)

trickle charge - is a small current used to slowly charge a car battery.
active wire - is not a term I've seen used in relation to household power.
outlet - usually means a 3-pin wall socket (not a light switch back-box or patress)


Can I install wiring in the space used by a sealed air duct and PVC water supply lines? I have a space between walls that is about 14" deep and 8 foot wide, and goes from the floor to the ceiling. This space is on the second floor. Petty much in the center of the house. The space contains a sealed round air duct and also PVC water supply pipes. They go from the attic to the first floor in this space.

I will have an electrician rewire the house going from aluminum to copper.
Can the wires be run in this space as well?

Yes you can run electric in any interior wall.  You cannot run electric inside of water supply lines, inside duct, or attach electric to either.

The cavity you describe is common in a lot of house layouts.  I have a 8 foot section that is about 12 inches wide in the middle of my house.  It has duct work, main stack and tons of plumbing, with plenty of electric too.


Sprinklers on = no pressure in both sprinklers AND house When I turn sprinklers on, the water pressure is practically zero for sprinklers and also in house. Upon turning sprinklers off, house pressure returns to normal. Leak detection service found no leaks. Replaced house regulator. No change. Previously noticed that when sprinklers initially go on there is a bit of a vibration "jolt", which might be a separate issue. Next step plumber wants to take is to replace irrigation regulator...? My irrigation regulator is as old as the house. (Built in 1989).

It could be a faulty safety pressure valve, f.e. used upstream of an electric/gas/oil boiler in the cold water inlet pipe.

In combination with the - assuming long - sprinkler lines/hoses, a sort of pressure (standing/reflected or other type of) wave could be established that opens this SPV periodically or permanently if the sprinkler is opened.
The sprinkler itself could start that pressure wave if it is of a type that sprinkles intermittently.

Needing resonance, it would be only generated with the right matching length and cross section of hose/pipe.

The SPV could also be dirty inside. Many SPV have manual handles to turn/snap them open for a short moment in order to clean the valve.


Cracks on second-story cement slab I just purchased a 50-year-old condo. I pulled up the carpet and found the second floor to be a concrete slab. There are thin cracks in areas and a small pit in one area.  What are my options for resolving/minimizing cracking.

Rhino Crack Locks
Tear it all out and start over, my least desirable option
Just fill in the cracks and leave it.

There are no cracks in the walls etc., it's not a foundation issue.

This seems to be a cosmetic issue if it's 50 years old and not having foundation issues. In which case "Option C: fill it and leave it" seems perfectly reasonable.


How to figure the angle to drill from an above ground carport to basement next to it? Okay, so not the best drawing below (The wall between basement + 1st floor, and carport, should have been depicted as thicker for this illustration, for one)...

.... However I need to drill a hole from the left wall of the carport (Car is pictured showing it's back) through to beside the Electrical panel, so I can then (housed in conduit) run 6AWG (Copper / 75°C; If it isn't cheaper to go larger in aluminium or a different temparture rating in either) from a socket in the carport to a breaker in the panel.

How does one work out the angle to do so when the real roof (not drop ceiling) is likely not parallel with the floor of the carport, but one is not sure by how much it is off, so one can use pythagorean theorem to work out the angle to drill at?

use a water level to find matching level spots inside and outside of the basement

get a large jar of water

get some tubing 1/8" to 1/4" long enough to reach from the carport, through a window or door onto the basement floor and up the wall of the basement

fill the tubing with water, put one end in the jar of water (loop it through a large metal washer to keep it submerged)

plug the other end with your thumb and drag the the tube into the basement

hold the tubing high against the wall and release your thumb

the water level in the tubing will settle to the same level as the water in the jar


Standing water in dishwasher I accidentally opened the diswasher mid-cycle. Then i closed it and it went back to normal operations. But after the cycle ended, i see some standing water at bottom on tub for the 1st time.

I quickly looked at airgap and it seems all clean to me.

Please let me know
1. If i can start the dishwasher again, and this water would go away on its own
2. If i need to do something else before starting the dishwasher again

I would try starting a short cycle and keep an eye on the drain that's inside the garbage disposal.  I have seen the short piece of drain line plug up with rice before.  Did you have a bunch of rice last meal?  Otherwise just let the short cycle run and peek into the disposal when you hear a drain cycle begin.  Also some units have filters at the bottom, you might want to check for that.


How to refinish antique stained with walnut? I have a table made around 1905 and its base was apparently stained with natural walnut, which was a common stain at the time.
Most of the stain has been sanded off, but unfortunately there are few spots, like the inside of coves where the stain seems to have settled in more deeply and has not been sanding off.
I am afraid if I use a modern stain, it will become blotching where the old walnut stain remains.
If I sand more, I am afraid I might start to distort the shape of the cove.
I do happen to have natural walnut stain because walnut trees grow in my area, however, I am not sure I can match the exact color of the existing stain, so I might still get blotches.
What should I do in this situation?

"Antique Furniture refinisher" from someone like Minwax or Formby's (not an endorsement) is intended for just this sort of thing. It is basically a mild solvent that blends into the existing finish and redistributes it.


How do I calculate CFM for a structure? This is for calculating the CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air that the blower needs to move in order to compensate the total heat loss (ventilation,infiltration,heat loss  through walls, windows, etc)

The formula is:
CFM=Building volume in cubic feet/Minutes Air change

Where do I get the "minutes air change number" from?

I want to verify if my ducts are properly sized for the furnace that I am getting.

The heat loss for a structure (home) is calculated with:
H = Ht + Hv + Hi (1)
where
H = overall heat loss (W)
Ht = heat loss due to transmission through walls, windows, doors, floors and more (W)
Hv = heat loss caused by ventilation (W)
Hi = heat loss caused by infiltration (W)

My house heat loss was calculated by Heat2000 to be around 55kBTU/h
My furnace will be sized for 60K BTU/h
Now the blower must be able to recirculate the entire volume of air in the house in that hour. That means the heat will be uniformly distributed (according with the volume of each room) if the duct sizes are calculated correctly.

If the above are correct the CFM should be house volume/60

Is this correct?

The "minutes per air change" is a design value chosen for the type of space and use that space has.  In common situations, that number is ignored and simple rules of thumb for air flow are used instead.  (Living rooms don't vary greatly in size, and the target numbers usually have a magnitude range of 2 to 4 anyway.)

However, a common design for bedroom space is 1 to 4 air changes per hour (15 to 60 minutes per air change).  Living room space which is uncommonly occupied can be once per hour (60 minutes per air change), whereas a crowded smoky bar is comfortable at 15 to 30 air changes per hour (2 to 4 minutes per air change).

There is an extensive table here mostly covering commercial spaces.


Mark 2 points on parallel walls directly opposite each other I am about to mount some steel pipe which spans from one wall of a room to the opposite wall. (Here's why: Mount Pull-up bar from wall to wall)

How do I accurately mark two points on facing parallel walls so that the points are directly opposite each other? By directly opposite, I mean that the line joining the points should be horizontal and should also be perpendicular to both walls.

Additionally, I have a hook suspended from my ceiling and it would be nice if I could accurately mark the points so that the line joining them passes directly below this hook in addition to being level and perpendicular to the walls.

Why not buy the pipe, and make the marks based on that. That is, have a level, hold the pipe up and level it, then mark where it touches the wall. A friend would help, so might hanging or otherwise supporting the pipe from either above or below as you do this.


How to combine flat and split lock washers on a bolt So I'm assembling a pull up bar and its assmebly instructions look like this

In the parts list it mentions only one type of spring washer (quantity 4).

But it actually came with two types of washers (quantity 4 each), type1 and type2.

Am I supposed to use both of them? And in what way? Any help would be appreciated!

They gave you four lock washers instead of 4 locking nuts. No problem. Install the bolts as shown in the instructions. Then install a flat washer on each bolt followed by a lock washer and then the nut. Tighten as specified.

Picture Source


What Kind of Wooden Beam is this My wife and I recently purchased our first home. We'd like to make a flattened area in our backyard (which is somewhat sloped) for a firepit.
My thinking was to dig out a shallow area and fill it with gravel, then place the firepit on top (similar to the picture above)
What I'm unsure of is how to safely contain the gravel without it spilling over. I was imagining some kind of retaining wall thing. This picture clued me in on these wooden beams, which I like the look of and I would expect are less  expensive than building a stone retaining wall (probably more practical too).

The Question:

What are the wooden beams called in this picture?

Bonus Question(s):

Do you see any issue with using these wooden beams to contain the gravel?
Would you expect these Beams to last several years or would you expect them to deteriorate quickly?

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, if my question needs to be edited in someway, let me know and I'll edit it ASAP.

"Landscape Timber" or, sometimes, "used railroad tie" - but "landscape timber" is what you'll find at most typical lumber suppliers.

They will typically last several years - if well pressure-treated, longer. It's hard to know if they are really well pressure-treated until they start failing and you look at a calendar to figure out how long it's been.

Concrete "fake stone" retaining wall blocks will last longer, generally speaking. So which costs less depends on how long a time you are considering when judging the total cost.

You probably want a geotextile fabric layer between the soil and the gravel to keep the gravel from migrating into the soil over time.


What type of paint and how many coats should be used to paint a radiator? We've moved into a new house with a fairly incompatible sense of interior design. To illustrate one room in particular, the walls are orange, the floor to ceiling shelves are orange, the fireplace mantle is orange, the pinboard is orange and the radiator is orange.

The entire room looks like it's been painted in the same shade of orange and possibly even the same type of paint.

I'd like to re-paint the walls and the radiator but I'm new to painting radiators and I'm not sure where to start. I'm mainly concerned about what type of paint to use and how many coatings should be applied.

If we're talking a cast iron radiator, it's a good process.

First you need to remove the old finish. You can get it sandblasted, or you can get in there with some sandpaper for a few hours. A wire wheel on an angle grinder can get out a good bit, or you might have luck with chemicals to strip them. If you do use chemicals, you'll have to wait for them to totally dry, then sand the bare metal of the radiator just to make 100% sure all of the residue is gone and the surface is rough enough.

Next, you'll want to clean with a deglosser, to make sure all the sanding residue is gone, along with any other junk in there. The paint won't bond so well without it, and with something that expands and contracts as much as a heater.. you want to make sure it's thoroughly clean.

Now it's time to protect your walls and floors. Get a drop cloth, cut a slit in it and slide it over the unit. Tape it to the walls, tape it to the floor, and tape up as much of the slit you made as you can.

You'll then need to prime it, and you'll have to chose the primer based on the paint you end up with.

Time for paint. Oil based paint should hold up, but you'll probably have better luck with spray enamel paint. Use many thin coats rather than few thick coats. Make sure to read the specs on whatever paint you decide on, make sure it can withstand up to 220 degrees - Just to be safe.

Alternatively, maybe you can look into building a radiator cover.


Can I attach Trex handrail to wooden balusters? The steps to my front porch are exposed.  The treated and stained handrails have started to rot (one out of 4 rails at this time).  I am not prepared to replace all the porch and stair railings right now.  My question is whether or not it is possible to replace the 4 exposed top railings with Trex railings, attaching them to existing wooden balusters.

There is no reason you cannot mix Trex type boards/railings with wood products. Decks that use Trex type surfaces are usually framed with pressure treated lumber. If your balusters and other parts are not either pressure treated or regularly stained/sealed/painted, they will also deteriorate fairly quickly.

If you go ahead with Trex on wood, be sure to use coated screws meant for composites.

These have a special finish that resists corrosion and a special thread that grips composites well.

Some people use stainless steel, but I have heard reports of staining despite their "stainless" characteristics.


What material should I use to insulate floor over a bumpout? My dining room has part of it bumped out about 2 feet overhanging from the foundation.  The floor over this overhanging part gets cold in winter and I'm thinking about insulating below it.  I've done a lot of work installing kraft-faced batts in the attic inside, but would the same material be practical in an area exposed to the elements?  What are my other options?

I had this exact problem.  It also got much worse when we refinished our basement.  Not sure if you have a basement, and if it is refinished.  Here is the summary of my issue.

The floor joists from the basement extend out to support the bump out.  So standing in the basement, you can reach out below the bump out.  The space was insulated, with the insulation sitting on the "floor" of the bumpout, meaning it was resting on MDF that was attached to the bottom of the overhanging floor joists.  The siding was then attached to the bottom of the mdf.  We do not have the insulated siding that Mike Powell mentioned, but that would be a good idea.  So above the insulation, it was open to the basement.  Air could flow into that space freely from the basement, which was not heated (the vents were closed), but stayed pretty warm in the winter, probably the 60's.    The floor upstairs was cool, but not cold.

We then refinished our basement, put in a dropped ceiling, and insulated all the floor joists in the house for noise.  This insulation prevented any air circulation from getting into the old space between the bumpout insulation and the floor.  And the drop ceiling kept most of the heat out of the basement ceiling.  So all this, you would think it would help, but it made it much worse and unbearable.  We had a guy look at it, and because the space in the bumpout is not getting warm air circulation anymore, that is why it is cooler than before.  To fix it, we need to actually remove some if the insulation, to allow as much warm air circulation to enter this space.  Still keep the insulation at the end cap of the bumpout, and on the floor, but keep it open between that insulation and the floor upstairs.

I put together a quick pic to illustrate.  This is across section on the bumpout:


What size of ceiling joists should I use We started remodeling the 2nd floor this last fall, starting with a spare bedroom, but between our day jobs and the holidays, we ran out of time, stopping short of dry-walling - the room is sealed and insulated but it's still "open".

After we had gutted the room, we noticed that there was a pretty decent amount of space in the attic. It's the style that's all open (no wood supports in the middle). I'd like to use this space to make a small office and provide some additional storage (clothes, toys, etc...) - the only problem is, the ceiling joists / floor of the attic is made of 2x4's.

I know this is wrong; it may be ok for storage with some plywood covering it, but I don't think I want to trust it to support a desk and me working up there.

Would anyone know the minimum floor joists we would need to install? 2x6? 2x8?

3/4 plywood - I know that - and later we could do a dormer if we feel we need it.

Also, any links to how to finish the attic? It's just rafters, plywood and the actual roof up there. Can I insulate the actual rafters and drywall over or should I use that foam channel to allow air to pass through from the soffits that I've seen.

The 2X4's you are looking at are collar ties attached to the end of the rafters and span wall to wall.  They are really only strong enough to support ceiling materials, not a live load. The new floor joists will need to rest on the upper wall plate (load bearing) adjacent to a rafter, and cross supported.

The items you need to determine are span, joist spacing and material to be used as floor joists.  This link shows a chart in feet and inches for you application: http://www.the-house-plans-guide.com/joist-span-tables.html. Even on short spans, I would never go any smaller than 2X8's to assure a flex free floor.

The second issue you will face is insulating the roof.  The size of your rafters are going to dictate how much insulation you can install. If they are less that say, 2X10, you will not be able to get a good R-value. You may have to consider maxing out the cavities with blanket insulation, then also adding some 2 inch rigid foam sheets over the entire field to increase the total R value. You could then install strapping (purlins), with long screws, to mount drywall to. In this kind of roof design, there would be no venting required. This is a very common type of construction on cathedral type ceilings.  Good luck.


Long screw that wont come out I am trying to get a long screw out of the box for a ceiling fan. The head is not stripped and the screw only comes out a little and then hits a point where it stops. I have tried screwing it back in and then out, but still no luck. This particular screw is attached to the fan box in the wall and to the attachment that holds the extension pole of the fan. Any ideas on what I can try?

Try (this may well be awkward, and will probably need a pair of locking pliers rather than a screwdriver - assuming it unscrewed far enough to get those on before it stopped) pulling down on the screw as you unscrew it. Whatever it's screwed into (a plate, or a nut) is now turning with it - you are trying to get the plate or nut to jam so that you can continue to unscrew it.


Reduce high humidity in attic My attic has high humidity. I put a combo temp-humidity monitor and it was in the high 70s. It’s 30 degrees outside. I’ve read about what could cause the high humidity and two key things came up:

Poor insulation between the attic and living space so heat and humidity rises into the attic. Key things that may cause leaks are recessed lights and AC register vents.
Something leaking humidity into the attic such as a bathroom fan vent pipe used during showers.

I have all of those things: AC vents in the attic, recessed lights, vent pipes form all of my bathrooms. The vent pipes seem to come together in the attic and go into a single pipe out the top of the roof.

The reason this matter to me is I’ve noticed a lot of rusty nails from my shingles and when the temps are below freezing they cause icicles to form due to the high moisture. When the sun heats my roof in the day those rusty icicles become drips of nasty rust on my boxes in the attic.

A few questions:

During my home inspections years ago I was told my ridge vent wasn’t wide enough. What is the proper width for a ridge vent?
How can I determine why is causing the high humidity? Is this something I call a weatherization company to investigate? Or a general contractor?

Yes, 70% RH is too high for a 36 degree attic. And your advice is on the money: stop humidity from entering, and remove humidity from the space.
First, add vapor barrier caps to the lights, seal the hatch opening, and use duct seal or tape on all the ducting.
Second step, get some air changes happening. You could install an attic exhaust fan towards one end of the space, and put an intake grille at the opposite end.  The fan can exit air through a soffit vent, a gable vent, or a roof jack. Wire the fan with a line-voltage dehumidistat mounted in the attic not too close to the hatch.


How to mix a resurfacer/leveler with sand and cement? Disclaimer: No, I can't buy ready made surface leveler, because in Brazil this doesn't exist.

I need to use a resurface a dry pack levelling that my previous contractor made a lousy job (porous surface here and there and a few cracks, but it seem well adhered). He is not answering my calls and I'm not calling anyone else to fix something this small.

Everytime I mixed sand and cement I always got a headache on getting the right mix or the right type of sand (in Brazil there are at least 4 different types of sand: coarse, medium, fine, and washed, most from river beds).

What would be a good recipe for a resurfacer, also, I should use bonding agent, right?

Roughen all areas to be resurfaced, remove any loose or unstable material. Dry mix 5 parts fine sand to 1 part portland cement. Moisten entire area to be resurfaced. Add small amounts of water, a little bit at a time, and thoroughly mix until entire batch is damp. For initial dry-pack, proper mix should hold as a clump if you squeeze together in your hand, but easily come apart if you break it up. For your resurfacing purpose, it could be a bit wetter but not liquidy. Spread out and pack firmly into area in question with a wood float, use the wood float to feather the edges of the repair into existing surface. Use a spray bottle to moisten as needed while you float it out. Screed or float out as level as you need it to be but the surface does not have to be super smooth.

Apply water-proofing membrane, then apply additional treatments (float regular cement on top of membrane then install tile?). Drypack is most often used to establish initial slope for the surface, not for applying final finish treatment to.


How can I hang something on an exterior wall with vinyl siding? My house has vinyl siding.  If I want to hang something on an exterior wall, can I just attach it with screws drilled through the siding?  Or do I need to do anything to prevent water from seeping in around the screws?

The siding needs to remain free to expand and contract.  So cutting at least a slot , then hanging something through that would work, but would be unsightly, and would leak water through the hole.  So I think that finding some kind of gasket or trim piece (such as is found where your vents protrude through siding) and trimming with J-channel all around it would look better and would be less prone to leaks.


Wiring an old dryer without a white ground wire? I purchased an old electric dryer to hold me over until I can have a gas line installed in my laundry room and am in the process of converting it from a 3-prong to a 4-prong plug. According to the warning the ground and neutral should be bonded. The problem is that there doesn't seem to be a white grounding wire. What do I do with the ground to wire this thing up safely?

According to this answer there should some kind of jumper. What does that look like? There is conflicting information in this answer. Is it safe to bind the neutral and ground wires?

The middle nut on the terminal board is the neutral. You can see the two white wires connected to it. You and also see the jumper going from the neutral to the housing. If you're going to go to a four prong plug, you will need a four wire cable and plug. The black and red wires from the new cable will go to the two outside nuts, the white wire will go to the middle nut and you want to remove the jumper. Then the green wire from the new cable will go to the screw in the housing, grounding it.


How do I adjust for a door jamb that's thicker than the wall? I have a wall that is measured at 4-1/4" thick (standard 2x4 with 3/8" drywall on both sides).  The door jamb is standard 4-11/16" wide, which leaves an extra 7/16" or nearly 1/2 an inch to play with.  What's the best way to compensate for this difference?

I'm thinking of the following options:

not worry about it.  The slope in the window casing from the extra 1/4" on either side won't be that noticeable.
back the window casing with extra 1/4"-thick material, bringing it to the level of the door jamb
route a 1/4"-deep channel the width of the jamb in the window casing trim

Any other options?

The question is similar to this question but might warrant a different answer:

Door jamb on a 2.5" thick wall

The "normal" way to deal with this issue is to disassemble the replacement door jamb and rip it to the proper width. The ripping is best handled with a table saw or radial arm saw.
Then reassemble the jamb for installation.


How can I install T molding on concrete subflooring? I'm at the point where I want to install some T molding for the transition from our main room to the bedrooms.  I just took a look at the directions and they only show screwing the track into the subflooring.  Right now I only have the moisture barrier down above the concrete subflooring, so I dont think I can just screw it down.  I guess I was thinking I could glue it down, but this would require me to cut into the moisture barrier, which I'm not sure is a good idea either.  I'm wondering how I should do this?

Update - Added picture of T molding pieces if that helps.

I know this is an old question, but here's what I did:

(1)  drill holes in the concrete.  Yes, this is a PITA, but with the right bit it is not too bad.  The holes do not need to be huge, nor do they need to be deep if you use the right screws.

(2)  Use the right screws.  The ones I used are from a standard Big Box store, and are specifically designed for concrete.  They specify a hole size to use, and the screws themselves seem to self-destruct as they dig into the hole.

(3)  Since I am also puncturing my moisture barrier, I did apply a line of silicone around each screw as I put it into the floor.  This pushed the material into the hole, under and around the hole in the moisture barrier, and under the screw itself.

So far, this seems like a good install, although it's only been a week, and they were well away from the foundation's perimeter, and above grade.

Also, while I did one this way after the floor was installed, I did the next five before installing the floor, since this is not only dusty work, a little water (and associated drying time) helps a lot with the drilling.


Plumbing a modified S/P Trap? With a Vent on the ‘P’? I have a couple plumbing questions.
I’m adding in a washing machine and sink. My space is tight and in the right bay where the Sink Drain is above is an electric panel. The part out of the wall I was going to leave out of the wall. As it will be under the free standing sink. The exit drain line will be enclosed in a chase. Of the the vertical pipes Left is the washer (2” Pipe, 6” of FF and 18”-30” in length). The right is the vent to roof.
I understand about the P-Trap Arm length and the distance to vent needs to be twice the size of the pipe. But that’s typically for the Vent on the other side of the drain line. The way this is plumbed (mocked up) fits nicely in the wall, but I didn’t know if I needed the 4” separation as the vent is on the other side of the ‘S’ trap.
I wanted to be sure that It would not cause a siphon.
Thanks!

As nobody else has come to the plate yet: reasons crown vents have been banned (for a long time) include (I'll community wiki, feel free to add, or write a whole new answer):

Easily plugged/blocked. You get a clog, you plunge it, the mass of hairy gook is sent directly from the trap into the vent line, the vent is now plugged. Your proposed setup is perfect for this problem.
High flow into the trap (draining a full sink, say) can cause the vent opening to be blocked by water, encouraging siphoning. With the vent further down the pipe, the water level in the pipe falls, leaving airspace at the top for the vent. Can also lead to gradual clogging if fats floating on the water congeal in the vent.
Several sources claim faster evaporation, but I don't know that I buy that argument.


How to locate ceiling joists? About to attach a bike pulley to my porch ceiling and advice re where the joists may be located ? I’m going to batten a piece onto it first then affix

Assuming that your ceiling is drywall attached to the joists, you proceed in the same manner as finding studs on vertical drywall.
I like to use an electronic stud finder to get a rough position for the joist. I tap on the drywall at that position to confirm that it sounds solid. Then I search along that rough position (parallel to the orientation of the joists) with magnets to find the screws/nails that attach the drywall to the joist. I like to identify at least two screws/nails before being somewhat confident that I've precisely located the joist. Then I choose the exact position along the joist where I'm going to mount, and drive a nail through the drywall, hopefully hitting the joist, to confirm that it really is where I think it is. Then I remove the nail and mount whatever it is at that point.


Is there a custom electrical outlet available with the connecting holes offset from the middle? We just had our bathroom strip lights replaced with vanity lights.  However, over one mirror, the cutout hole is partially blocked by a plumbing vent pipe, causing the light to be off center when screwed into the electrical outlet box.  This could be resolved if there were an outlet box with the connecting holes on the left side instead of in the middle.  I have not been able to find any searching online, and I wonder if such a thing exists.

By "outlet" do you just mean the electrical connection box for the fixture? Outlet is the official name for a plug-in receptacle.

When your screws are in the wrong place, you use an adapter.

Another version:


Should I switch to a vertical exhaust fan to avoid 90 degree bends? I am replacing the original kitchen exhaust fan on my 1950s house.  The old one vented sideways to an immediate 90-degree bend (to 8-inch rigid ducting) and then straight up about 24~36 inches to the roof cap.

I purchased a new unit with the same sideways exhaust but after reading some interwebs resources (for example) it sounds like avoiding 90-degree bends is best practice.  I didn't see anything in the new unit's installation instructions about 90-degree bends or really any kind of ducting recommendations.

If I were to switch to a unit with a vertical vent I would need to make up the displacement by using flexible ducting instead of rigid, which I hear is also non-ideal.  (Unless there are bends available at less than 90 degrees for 8-inch ducting; didn't see any at HomeD.)

Which would be the best solution?  Or is there a better one yet?

See sketch below.

A possibility of using a adjustable 90° fitting would do you right in this scenario and you could get the identical roof pitch in that fitting. So this would be a compromise, being less than that stated "stay away from 90 bends".

These would let you make an angle equal to your roof's pitch. 0° to 90°


New 3 way switch for basement I live in a 90 yr old house. The basement lights are all on 1 switch at the top of the stairs. I would like to change this to a 3 way switch and add a switch at the bottom of the stairs. Am I right that all I need to do is run 14/3 from the new box/3 way switch to the current box and add a 3 way switch?

Current code requires neutrals at switch locations, but provides exceptions. If the existing switch doesn't have a neutral you aren't required to remove building finish. But if the neutral is at the top of the stairs and it isn't visible to the entire floor space then you will need to extend the neutral to the new switch, which may mean 4 conductor cable or a raceway.


What is the best way to fix this garage floor? I need an educated opinion about how to fix the garage floor shown below. I need the surface to be level and even. As you can see I have two items, a table saw and and work bench that have adjustable casters or legs. Every time when I move them into position to work (usually they sit on the sides of the room) I have to adjust the legs to bring the table top level with the table saw top.

Ahh, the ancient quest for flatness.

You could put down a mortar bed, but it will degrade over time if it is unsurfaced.

In general, putting good concrete over bad concrete doesn't work. Trying to flatten just one area of a garage will not be easy. One possible procedure would be to get a jack hammer and remove about 1 to 2 inches of concrete everywhere you want to be flat. Then get down on your hand and knees with a level and chisel it all out so it is pretty smooth and level. Then pour new concrete into the draft, or better yet get an experienced paver to do it. Making really smooth flat concrete surfaces takes a lot of skill.

Also, you could do all that, and whatever caused the crack in the first place will crack your new concrete.


Finishing 12ft x12 ft room above garage The joist are currently 2x10 spanning 21 ft with 16"oc. Will sistering 2x10s to current joist add enough strength for finished room?

You'd need 3 ply 2x10 SPF at 16" on center spacing to span 21' with only floor load on the middle 12' of the span.

If there is any roof load on these joists then that completely changes everything.


negligable voltage at receptacle I replaced my kitchen faucet the oter day and when I hooked the garbage disposal back up to it's dedicated outlet, nothing happened.  Next, I plugged a lamp into the outlet and flipped on the switch for the disposer - still nothing.  Then I removed the outlet and checked the incomming wires with a voltmeter; <10 volts indicated when the circuit was energized.
  I checked the circuit breaker with a voltmeter and it indicated a full 120 volts.  What's going on?
  All other kitchen outlets are working and the single GFI is not tripped.

Daisy-chained receptacles with GFCI

Check every receptacle in the kitchen. Very likely one of them has tripped, possibly due to water getting on the disposal receptacle when you were working on the faucet. Reset it and your problem will most likely be resolved. The GFCI could be elsewhere, but my bet is "everything involved is in the kitchen".


Can I use two 30amp breakers instead of one 60amp? I bought a heater (ecosmart11), it needs 60amp. In the building I live I can't change the wiring from 40 to 60 (I bought the place, tho). So my 60amp breaker is useless. But, I can put two 30amp breakers. If I "split" the cable and instead of black, red and green, I have 6 cables, and plug in each group on each breaker, with it works?

You definitely do not want to do this. One of the reasons is if one of those 30A breakers were to trip it would leave the other half of the circuit to carry more current than it would normally be safe for it to handle.

Sure you might say that if the second breaker circuit saw a current overload then that breaker would also trip but this is not always assured. A 30A breaker is not going to instantly trip at say 30.001A. Whatever operating margin that second breaker would allow continued current to flow to the load overrating the 30A conductor on that half of the circuit.

So do this right and install a 60A breaker and new wiring suitable for 60A circuit.


Why is my electric water heater not working? I have electric heating in my flat. My water is not heating up even though the timer light comes on and the immersion light comes on.

Any idea what it could be?


When pouring cement next to a home, how far below the mud line on a stucco home do you need to be to avoid water issues? how far below the Mud line on a stucco home do you need to be to avoid water issues 1", 2", 3" or more

None.  The concrete should slope away from home.  If you have the option to go an inch down then fine so you don't mess up the stucco while pouring.


What effect does the number of coil turns on an electric stove heating element have? I'm in the US. I have an electric stove with three 6" burners, and one 8". The 8" burner doesn't perform like I think it used to, so I'm considering replacing it, to see if it improves. (It's slow to heat up, and intermittently adjusts unevenly throughout the temperature range. I think it's intermittently turning off more than it's supposed to, at least when it's not on high.)

I was browsing for replacement burners, and saw that the coils come with different numbers of turns, at different prices.

Could I replace the burner with one that has a different number of coils? (The current 8" burner has 4 coils. I saw replacements with 4 and 6.)
If so, what is the difference in performance between more / fewer coils? i.e. Why would I consider spending more for the 6-turn element?

IMHO:

The number of coils does make a minor difference in the time it takes to heat the burner; on the one with the extra coils, the coil's elements are usually smaller and therefor heat faster and cool faster.  The extra turns make up for the smaller coils.

You have to look at the ratings of the different coils.  Are they the same wattage?
Are the connections the same? (will the new one plug into the existing stove?


Electric water heater overheating very quickly We have an electric water heat that recently started heating the water to about boiling. We heard a loud pop one night, not sure if that has anything to do with it.

So far we just replaced the heater's thermostats thinking that was it, but after turning it back on the water was super hot again within 20 minutes.

Could it be the elements? This is in my mother's house. She is leaving soon so would rather not spend 300 on a new one since we can take back the thermostats and get elements for 100.

If the water heater has never been flushed and is rather old, there could be severe deposits built up inside the tank at the bottom, partly insulating the bottom sidewall where the lower thermostat is meant to sense the temperature.  You might be able to compensate for this somewhat by turning down the lower thermostat to a much lower setting.  "Popping" noises are common when a water heater is full of mineral deposits and corrosion from a spent sacrificial anode.  Look for the UL label that shows the unit's date of manufacture.  If it is 10+ years old, then it is very likely at its End of Life.  It is doubtful replacing the heating elements will make much difference.


Mounting mirrored bathroom cabinet to plasterboard wall without usable stud I have a bathroom cabinet which weighs in at 14.5kg (empty).

The cabinet says that the screws should be "into material, not plaster board".

The problem is that the horizontal spacing between the screw holes in the cabinet is around 55cm, which is never going to match the space between the two uprights in a plasterboard wall.

I have considered using things like this which would easily take the weight (as they are rated for 100+kgs, and there will be four of them). Will I get away with this, or is there some bigger reason I'm missing why the cabinet says "not into plaster board"?

I have looked on all the information I can find on their website, and tried their Q&A, but no luck so far.

UPDATE: I have heard back from the company which makes the cabinet, and they usefully say (paraphrased) "We say don't mount on plasterboard because it's weak. But it'll probably be fine, all our publicity photographs are done on plasterboard".

The manufacturer's instructions probably just want to warn you against using plain screws in plasterboard, which isn't strong at all.

I have not seen or used the anchor linked in the question, but have used similar hardware to wall mount much heavier things to drywall.  Even adding weight for the contents of the cabinet, a single anchor will carry considerably more.  With four anchors, you're only using a fraction of the rated capacity.

Since there's an electrical connection involved, to be extra safe, I'd locate the studs - there should be a stud somewhere behind the cabinet - and drill a couple new holes in the back of the cabinet to attach to the stud with screws.  It's really not important that the stud is not centered  on the cabinet.


Insulation for Entertainment Shed I have a shed that was just built with the idea of being used as an entertainment shed.  Although we call it a shed, it was built more like a 10x12 house. I currently am getting the electric installed and am trying to figure out what I need to use for insulation. It will be climate controlled.  We live in southern Ohio so we have all 4 seasons and a fair bit of humidity with quickly changing temps from day to day.

The shed has vinyl siding with Tyvek wrap underneath and a metal roof.  The floor has a layer of rigid insulating board already.   My question is do I need to use faced or unfaced insulation?  My main concern is development of mold.   With the moisture barrier on the exterior and sealing up any openings with spray insulation, will having faced insulation create a problem with restricting air flow?  Also, the ceiling is open (like a cathredral ceiling), so do I just install the insulation then drywall directly over it like we are the walls?

Housewrap isn't a moisture barrier. It's an air blocker and drain plane that allows vaporized moisture to escape. Use either faced insulation or bare insulation with poly sheeting on the inside. Modern homes are build with poly sheeting sealed at all edges with specially-designed caulk.

I'm not sure I understand your ceiling question, but typically it's done the same way unless it's blown insulation, in which case that's done after drywall.


Should my bathroom's plumbing vent be downstream of the toilet connection? My wife and I just bought a house and have been smelling sewer gases from our tub. After taking a look at the piping, the tub doesn't have a p-trap. My original plan is to install a trap before the sink's tie-in, but I have two questions:

1) With the current piping, is a tub trap all that I need?

2) What is up with the vent being after the toilet tie-in?

Attached is a simple drawling of the plumbing, and here's the description:

We live in a rancher house, with a main floor and basement underneath (Where all the piping connects)
The main air vent (2" diameter / Purple line in the drawling) runs from the roof down to the basement ceiling
The tub's drain connects directly to it's overflow pipe, and then runs straight down to the basement ceiling (Total length of pipe to the basement is about 2ft)
The tub's piping in the basement runs straight into the sewer line (Orange line in the drawling / Total length of the basement run to sewer line is an additional 5ft)
The bathroom sink has a trap underneath, which empties into the tub's line in the basement
The Toilet (with built-in trap ties directly into sewer line 6 inches down from where the tub's line connects into the sewer line
The Air vent line ties directly into the sewer line 6 inches down from where the toilet ties into

Does this make sense that the air vent would be so far down the line (After the tub, sink and toilet)?

Thanks for your time! :)

P.S. Here's a few notes:

This house was built in 1972
When the house was built, it originally had a septic tank, but since the early 2000s, it has been on city sewer (Not sure of exact date)
The tub, sink and toilet drain without an issue (No gurgling or slow draining)

Edit: I had some time to take pictures of the actual plumbing, see below:

1) Basement Piping Layout

2) Tub - Overflow and Drain Connection

3) Tub - Piping to Basement

4) Tub - Piping in Basement

5) Sink - Piping to Basement

6) Sink - Piping in Basement

7) Tub and Sink - Connection to Sewer Line

8) Toilet and Air Vent - Connection to Sewer Line

That tub needs a trap.  For testing, stop up your tub and run a little water in it. Then exhaust any existing odor from the area. If your smell goes away, then you know it's coming from the tub.


How do I prep and plaster a bowed wall before tiling? I'm about to tile a shower alcove.  However, I put a straight edge against the walls and the rear wall bows out very badly.  The wall is 950mm wide and putting a straight edge across shows a gap about 8mm at it's max in the centre - i.e. big enough to get my finger through!  I'm using 500mm wide tiles (by 250mm high) in a brick pattern.  I did have a go at tiling it as is and just putting the tile adhesive on quite thick in the centre of the wall to try and fill out the gap a bit, but it looked awful so I've taken the tiles off.

The wall itself is a plastered external brick wall.  The house is 1930s.  I live in the UK.

Please could you advise what would be best to fix the issue to give a flat surface to tile on to?  I was thinking of getting some ready mix plaster and spreading it on to level the gap - i.e. I'd spread it about 8mm deep in the centre and feather it out to 0mm at the edges, using a straight edge to check as I go.  I wouldn't attempt this myself if the plaster would be the finished surface, but I think I can do a decent enough job given it will just be tiled over.  Does that sound sensible and if so:

what type of plaster should I use?
do I need to prep the wall in any way before plastering?  I've already painted on the primer the tile shop sold me that was to prep it in advance of applying the tile adhesive (I think this is just some sort of glorified PVA).

Just in case this helps anyone, I spoke to the people at the tile shop and they recommended building the wall out using cement based tile adhesive (the type you buy as powder and mix).  I did this and it worked well.  You have to work fast though, that stuff dries very quickly!