Blomberg refrigerator making intermittent loud knocking sounds coming from the ice maker Sounds and vibration coming from the sealed ice maker assembly in top left side of freezer.  50 seconds knocking, 10 second pause, knocking resumes.   When we unplug refrigerator and plug back in, the knocking stopped for 50 minutes before starting again.  When I unplugged and let defrost for 2.5 hours, and then plugged back in, the knocking stopped for 77 minutes before resuming.  Repairmen can't get here for 3 weeks.  Any ideas?and vibrtion

Icemakers work by freezing the ice, then thawing the outside, rotating the ice out of the tray, and eventually dumping it in the bucket.

If the ice fails to release from the tray, the gears will make loud gridnging noise until you remove the ice from the tray.

Easiest way I've found to do this is to run a hair dryer pointed at the icemaker until the ice releases.  Longer term, it seems that something is out of adjustment on your icemaker.  You can also shut it off by pushing the bail up.


How to remove spackle How to  remove dried spackle from between the edge of a cabinet and the wall? I’ve tried using a screwdriver and a spackle knife but the spackle is very hard.

Try using a single edge razor blade. Don't just use the tip or you'll scratch the cabinet, use the entire sharp edge and lightly push it across the surface. You can add a little water and it will make it easier. Use a blade similar to the one below, you want the rigid edge so the blade doesn't bend and scratch the cabinet.


How do I patch sections of polyurethane coating on a hardwood floor? Sections of the floor in our dining room have worn sections, where the polyurethane coating has worn through to the bare wood. Having the room emptied and properly refinished isn't really an option at the moment. I understand that you really can't stay in the house while the pros are using their giant floor sanders and spraying polyurethane, and that it takes several days.

Can I sand the section of floor by hand and paint or spray polyurethane on the damaged sections? Is there any way of doing this so it'll last for more than a few months? Or are we best off simply waiting the several months or so it'll be until we can have this done properly?

The research I've done has yielded several opinions on the subject. This one, for example, seems to outline a procedure I could do on my own, but can I do this to just a section of the floor?

I have had repairs done on oak floors that resulted in refinishing small areas.  It looks remarkably good.  The process is straightforward: sand the area, clean it with a solvent afterwards (denatured alcohol), apply polyurethane, let dry.

Use solvent based polyurethane and get the same finish type (gloss, satin, etc.) and apply a few thick coats.


Can a GFCI power a light and a switch in this order? I made some repairs in a bathroom which included pulling an old outlet, switch, and the light. I'm coming back now to replace them with updated versions (gfci, switch, light) and scratching my head on how the wiring was working before. I should have taken a picture, but I didn't :(
The bathroom is on its own breaker. The source comes in to the GFCI, and then a cable feeds to the light, and finally from the light to the wall switch.

How can I wire this so the outlet remains on and the switch controls the light? I'm seeing a lot of examples of the light coming "after" the switch but that isn't how it was setup in this room. Everything is 14/2.

What was done was called a switch leg the black hot from the GFCI was tied to the white wire in the cable going to the switch. Both ends the wire taped or marked to show hot. Then that re identified wire on one side of the switch and the black on the other back at the light the black wire from the switch is the switched hot Or connects to the black of the light.
Next the white wire from the GFCI is the neutral that goes to the white of the light.
Once these connections are made it should work.
Note this is now an old method of wiring and we are supposed to take the neutral down to the switch location (or feed the switch first is the easiest without needing expensive wire or conduit (smurf tube commonly used).


How to deal with large 4-gang switch boxes and the need to wire together numerous wires (>4)? I'm looking to upgrade my light switches to smart switches, which I've been doing mostly successfully around my house. However there are a number of large 4-gang switch boxes and I'm not sure what to do about the many wires which are brought together in a wire nut. In one switch there are 5 NM power lines coming in, and the neutrals are brought together. But there are 5 wires, isn't the maximum for a red wire nut 4 wires at 12 gauge?
Do I need to daisy chain together a couple of wire nuts in order to bring these wires together safely?

How many wires depends on the nut, and not just the color of the nut. I have red wire nuts that will only take 5 #14 and others that will take 6 #14 (don't recall the #12 numbers off the top of my head and the boxes are not here as I write.) The listed configurations are laid out in detail on the side of the box/container of wirenuts, and you don't get to be creative if a combination is not listed.
Looking on the website of the de-facto standard manufacturer in the US market (no affiliation other than I use them, and pay full price to do so):
Ideal® Wing-nut reds are listed for 5 #12 - their plain Wire-nut reds are listed for 4 #12, the "B-Cap" variant is listed for 5 #12
In any case, if you have more to connect than your particular wire nuts are suited for, divide them up and then add a pigtail between them (which you don't have to count for box fill, but you DO have to count at each end for wire nut capacity.)


Ductless Mini Split System for Cooling, Heating, and Dehumidification I have a 22x24 foot building that I'd like to heat, cool, and dehumidify in East Texas.

I'm specifically interested in purchasing a ductless mini split system to achieve this, but I have the following requirements:

The system must have a dehumidification mode, where it focus less on
temperature and more on keeping the humidity to 40% or less.
The system should have a good energy efficiency rating for cooling
and heating.
The system must be able to remember its settings after a power
outage, so that it resumes those setting after power is regained.

I'm not looking load-calculation advise. Mainly, I'd appreciate any advise that could lead to meeting requirements 1 and 3 above.

I realize that brand and model recommendations are considered off-topic by the moderators here, but a 2017 example (meeting these requirements), would  be a great lead.

You need to do a heating/cooling load calculation on your building with its specific design and insulation. It's a lot more than just the dimensions of the building. For example you need the volume of the building so you need the ceiling height.

Then select a make and model large enough to handle the load with the humidity option you require.

Asking for specific recommendations of make and model is considered off topic since it is asking for someone to shop for you.

Good luck!


How to make this electrical main safe An older home has a strung electrical main. The main connects with exposed lugs on the roof above the deck. Not only is the height and location unsafe, while working on the roof today I noticed that the insulation on the main electrical lines is deteriorated. This is before the meter and my main breaker.

Here you can see the exposed main lugs. This is about 8.5' from the deck surface. Somebody carrying a tall object such as a pole or a ladder or a piece of pipe could easily hit these.

I am in the process of re-locating the main for the home to a different, safer location. At that time I will need the power company to handle and relocate this main line. However, I am quite concerned above the safety of this line as-is. You can clearly see the deteriorated insulation in one of the legs of the wire. The neutral is completely exposed and the red conductor is significantly worn.

Is there anything I can do to address this until the utility company can relocate the line? I was considering a spray-on electrical insulator. I am not properly equipped to actually be in contact with this wire to apply tapes or paint-on insulation.

No. There is nothing you can, or should do to fix this.
Don't touch it, don't go near it, don't even look at it anymore.  Get off the roof, and call the local power company or an Electrician.
Service entrance cables do not have overcurrent protection and will shock you until the transformer blows, the wire burns and breaks, or contact with the line has been broken. All of which will likely happen long after you are dead.


Replace electrical panel without a main disconnect I have a 100 amp (says on the panel) federal pacific but has no main disconnect. I would like to replace it with a combination panel.  Is this possible as it is located behind the back door on a landing.  It is a Federal Pacific 12 circuit spaces.  I live  in Alberta Canada.  I know I have to get a permit and have it inspected.  I am a 4th year electrician.  Wondering if it could be done myself it main power coming in from Atco was shut off?

I'm sure you know this, but you definitely want to replace any Federal Pacific breakers in your house, as they're known to not trip, overheat, and/or catch fire! You might give the box a close inspection, my in-laws house has a Federal Pacific panel and the main panel instead of having a main disconnect breaker at the top of the panel, it has them in the rows to the side among the regular breakers, and the only way you know they're the main disconnect is the breakers are 100A each and they're marked "main" but they're the same size as the other breakers. Yours might be hiding in there as well. I'm not sure in Canada, but here in the US, unless local codes are different, if you've got a main disconnect that's separate from the rest of the panel, you can do your own work on the panel, but you can't touch the main disconnect, whereas if it's all part of the same panel, the power company won't pull the meter or otherwise disconnect it unless it's requested by a licensed electrician, and then it either has to be worked on by an electrician, or at least inspected and done up to code before they will turn the power back on. Running into this issue right now at my house, it has the original 1954 fuse panel with glass fuses and it's going to be $2500 to have it replaced!


Is 150 CFM ventilation fan right choice for bathroom in my older condo? My bathroom ventilation fan broke up and I am shopping for a new better one. I noticed the newer fans are higher CFM through-put and are quieter, I have narrowed down my choice to this one.

My question is that my condo was built in 1980 so its older, will this fan still do a good job and be quiter? I have read in some product reviews/youtube installation that high CFM fans require bigger ducts. I live in 3 floor condo building. I only have access to the bathroom and nothing outside.

Will this 150 CFM be still a good option for me or I just need to go with the lower ranking basic fan?

The bathroom size is 7 ft by 5 ft. I have no idea of about the ducts size.

Update

I end up asking my condo management and I am told the duct is 6 inches which is great. Now I am gonna go with 150 CFM and I am buying this from Amazon which is way cheaper than others but I worry if this will fit? I took my current one dimensions (from outside) and is 12 by 10.5 inches. The one at amazon shows bigger but I think all new ones will be standard sizes. Should I be worrying about physical dimensions? Thanks!

Calculate the CFM Needed.   (Length X Width X Height)/7.5  (7 x 5 x 8)/7.5 = 37.3 CFM   Did the 7x5 include a Shower/tub area too? If so, the 50 CFM should be fine.

That Fan is a bit overkill for your bathroom, that said Mine is a 190CFM for the same size.  The issue you are going to run into is that the fan you chose has a 6" Duct coming from it.

Typically fans from a Bathroom are 3" or 4" for something that size. It would be Similar to your Dryer Vent where it Exits the house, so that should give you an Idea.   If you can get the Part number of the Existing Fan and look it up you should be able to google it to determine its Duct Size.   There are Downsize collars that would downsize the 6" to 3 or 4" though that is not recommended as you will cause back pressure on the Fan as it can't push the required CFM out the smaller hole. If your Duct run was less than 2' you might get away with it, but if not you would probably void the fan warranty.

Find the Duct you have and then get a Fan that Supports its.


Can multiple pieces of crown molding be stacked / combined? Im trying to achieve a very ornate crown molding, and Ive gotten the look I want by gluing 3 pieces of crown molding together and it looks perfect.   Ive used glue on my sample test run which is only about 1 foot in length.  But this will be for a room thats about 12 feet long so Im sure the glue method wont work in real world :)

My question is, whats the best way to actually attach these pieces together and is this just a stupid idea since the areas of attachment are generally so thin?

From my basic internet research it seems like using baseboards on either side and one crown molding looks much more stable, but I simple cannot achieve the look I want with that technique and having 3 crown moldings stacked is what I want to achieve

What does everyone think the best way to attach these pieces together would be?

Thank you!!

Yes, if you apply a plywood backer that's about 3/4 the width of the assembly. Crown mold takes a lot of stress and strain during installation, from fitment, mitering, coping, and nailing. Those thin joints are likely to crack apart during the process.

I'd back it up with either 3/8" BC plywood, or 1/4" birch underlayment (Tecply).


Replacing receptacles - why are white and black wires crossed? I am in the process of replacing all receptacles and wall plates in my home. Most of the receptacles are pretty straight forward to replace as they have only one black and one white wire (and ground).
Now, I am running into a couple receptacles that have two black and two white wires (and ground). Sometimes the white and black wires are coming from the same corner of the receptacle, sometimes they are crossed.

How should I re-wire them?

Should I also cross them in the replacement receptacle?

What is the reason behind cross wiring (if that is the right term to use)?

Per request, I added the sides of the receptacle:

Check the tabs.

Check the tabs.  That is the #1 trouble spot.  If a tab is broken off on the old receptacle, do the same with the new.

When there are 2 wires on a side, what that means is totally different if the tabs are broken off, versus not.

White wires on silver screws, black on brass screws

The old one should be like that.  If you see a case where it is not, take some good photos of the back of the box and both sides of the receptacle, and ask a new question.   Because there might be something special going on there.

What you call "crossing" should simply be the wires getting to where they belong.

If you have been disregarding this, and "uncrossing" the wires, then you need to go back and correct that.  In those cases the outlet will probably function normally, but will create an electrocution risk situation.

If the tabs are not broken off, then the wires simply need to obey the above rule: you can swap two whites on two silver screws if that fits better.

If the tabs are broken off, then position also matters.

While you're in there, ground the receptacle

The one in your photo is grounded.  If you find any that are not, get some #12 bare wire, and some wire nuts, and run a pigtail from the group of grounds to the receptacle.

If you can't ground, then have a conversation with someone knowledgeable about GFCI protection (don't simply slap in a GFCI receptacle in every location; but if you insist on doing so, only use the LINE terminals and leave the warning tape on the LOAD terminals).

On switches, screw color is vital, and wire color is unhelpful.

I gather you'll be doing switches too?  In switches, wire colors are almost meaningless.  In 1-way switches (2 screws only), it doesn't matter.  However, 3-way and 4-way switches absolutely require care in matching wires to screw colors.  I like to mark travelers with yellow tape.  Travelers are on yellow screws in 3-ways. On 4-ways, one pair is on yellow, the other pair is on black.


How can I safely leave my air compressor on at all times? I have a small 1HP air compressor - Rolair JC10 Plus 2.5 Gal.
It would be very convenient to leave it plugged into AC power at all times so that any time I use it, if I bleed it down it will kick in and re-compress itself, etc.
However, this worries me - what if there is a break in the (copper) air lines or a failure of the socket or ... a serious leak.  If that were the case, the compressor could just run forever, or cycle very frequently.
At the very least this is bad for the compressor - at worst, a fire hazard.
Right now, I leave it plugged in but turned off.  This means that if I run out of air I have to walk around the building and turn it back on to re-compress.
An easy solution would be to wire in a high voltage switch at the point of use and make the outlet a switched outlet ... and then leave the compressor power set to on.  HOWEVER, there are TWO points of use (air outlets) so that gets weird and hard to wire.
So my hope is that there is a plug-in relay with a remote control that I can plug between the compressor and the outlet.  So, no wiring involved - just a device between the compressor and the 20amp outlet - and I have two or three remotes that I can place anywhere I like and turn the power on.
Does that device exist ?  Can I size a device purely on the 20amp power outlet or do I need to compute the horsepower of the compressor ?
Is there a simple way to do this that I am unaware of ?
Thank you.

I think you are over engineering your solution. It is a small 1HP 4.1 CFM compressor with a small 2.5 G receiver and 90 PSI max operating pressure. The copper pipes will not burst in your lifetime. You may have a very unlikely  leak at the receiver valve  or a more likely leak in your hoses and connections. I leave my compressors on all the time and have copper pipe to all the outlets avoid pressurising lengthy rubber hoses. I also have a pressure gauge at each outlet. Bursting of pipes and fire hazards resulting from that, are so low I would not consider them. If there is a leak, the motor will run more than it should and you will find out from running noise or moving gauges. Your motor has overload protection in the very unlikely case it runs all day and you do not notice.  Establish if it has leaks by monitoring if you lose pressure overnight. Use soap water to find the leaks and eliminate them. My tanks retain pressure for several months without any leaks or the need for the motor to run when not used.


Plug In Dimmer on Circuit with Two Wall Dimmers Malfunctions I have a 15 amp breaker that controls:

Three bathroom incandescent vanity lights that have a wall dimmer,
Four incandescent can lights on my lanai that are controlled by four-way switches, one of which is a dimmer,
three GFCI duplex outlets on my lanai.

I have string patio lights (LED) that I am trying to control with a dimmer without success.  I have tried three different dimmer configurations

a plug-in smart dimmer,
a simple plug-in sliding lamp dimmer, and
a switch dimmer inserted into the circuit of one of the GFCI outlets.

All three dimmers have the same problem:

If the vanity lights and can lights are OFF, all three of the dimmer options for the patio string lights work as expected: they turn the lights on/off and dim them.
If I turn on either or both of the vanity lights and/or the can lights, the dimmers for those effect the dimmer for the string lights plugged into the GFCI outlet.  Even if I have the string patio lights turned off, turning on the vanity lights or the can lights will turn on the string lights plugged into the outlet. Stranger that that the dimmers on the vanity lights and the can lights will dim the string lights plugged into the outlet.
If I remove the dimmer from the string lights and merely plug them into the GFCI outlet, the switches for the vanity lights and can lights have no effect on the string lights...they don't turn the on or off and therefore don't dim them either.  It's only when I have a dimmer attached to the GFCI outlet that I experience the problem.

I have removed all three GFCI outlets from their boxes and checked that they are wired properly for line and load connections; they are.
I appreciate any thoughts on why this is happening and solutions to the problem if they exist.

Firstoff, do not put dimmers on receptacles except for testing.  That is illegal and dangerous, unless you use a special magic receptacle that's keyed to reject all loads except certain lamps which you put the companion plug on.

If that setup needs GFCI protection, then you would be better off learning all about GFCI's ability to protect downline loads using the "Load" terminals (which you should never use for any other purpose)... and wire it so the dimmer is downline of the GFCI protection.  You can't dim GFCIs either.

However, your root problem is miswiring.  Somehow the  patio lights are in series with the other lights.
The next step here is for you to post pictures of the interior of all boxes.  Do not disconnect any devices, but do try to pull things out so we can see how the wires connect to each other and which wires are grouped into which cables.


Can I reduce the amount of noise created by metal shrinking after the fireplace is turned off? I have a regular US-style gas fireplace in my home. I've bought a thermostat to ensure it doesn't run 24/7 but encountered a problem: when turned off, the metal of the fireplace starts to shrink and make a characteristic cracking sound that is quite annoying, doubly so when you're trying to sleep. Is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of noise?

There's not much from a practical standpoint that can be done. Obviously, as metal heats it expands and as it cools it shrinks again. The creaking primarily comes from seams in the firebox and the flue that move against one another as they cool at different rates.
Nothing will totally eradicate the problem other than possibly uninstalling the unit and reinstalling it with fused/welded seams to reduce the friction. It's impractical and even that would only reduce, not eliminate the noise. You might contact the manufacturer.


Exterior lights on new siding, no electrical box to screw into, what to do? I just had siding replaced and I have several exterior lights that need to be put up. The old lights had no junction box, there was just a hole cut into the siding and plywood for the electrical, and the lights were mounted directly to the siding.

When they re-did the siding, they put in these vinyl blocks, so at least there is a solid surface to mount against.

Problem is there is still no junction box to screw the fixture into.

Can I just screw directly into the vinyl block with wood screws? I don't see any other options, since I can't remove the block (it's nailed in underneath the siding).

I realize this is a little late, but for those reading this for answers:

Make a 4” round hole in the center. The existing hole in the siding box is around 1-1/8”, so if you have a 1-1/8” hole saw, Nest it in the 4” to stabilize. If you want to save money and not buy a hole saw, trace your octagon box (keep reading) and use tin snips to cut out the hole.

Get yourself an octagon box that has a depth close to, but less than the depth of the siding box. Install an NM clamp (plastic or metal, plastic will work better). Space the box off the back of the box so it is flush to the front, screw it down, and install the light.

Tip: Screws can be your spacer. Make a triangle out of three screws that prevent the box from setting too far back. The secure the box with 2 screws.


My toggle bolt hole hit a stud. What do I do now? I'm installing a pedestal sink and was screwing a hole for the toggle bolt and ended up hitting a stud. Now I have this hole I can't use for the toggle bolt, and I'm stumped on what to do. What's the best solution?

That sounds like a good problem to have. Go to the store and get a lag screw, and use that instead.

(source: china-ogpe.com)

Attaching the sink to a stud is preferable, and will offer a more solid install.

Hanging a sink from drywall, sounds like a bad idea to begin with. So I'd say you got lucky to hit the stud.


How to secure a doggy door from intruders? I installed a doggy door so that our dog can go in/out when it has to go to the bathroom while we are at work/away.  It lets him out into our fenced in backyard. The gates are deadlocked, but obviously this does not completely secure the house from determined intruders.  If someone were to breach our fence, the intruder might easily fit into our doggy door.  Other than the cover that was provided with the kit which I easily broke into, what is a good way to secure a doggy door from unwanted intrusions?

Forget securing the door, and install a security system with a motion sensor. Put labels up outside saying there is a security system (some people only put labels up, and don't have a real system).

Even if you have a door with a locking mechanism, if someone manages to defeat it (eg, kicks it open) or you forget to lock it, you still have the alarm go off.

Most motion sensors are "pet safe" in that it takes something over eg, 40 lbs or 80lbs to actually trigger (they have a rating and there are different sizes, so you can get a lower rating if you have a poodle and a bigger one if you have a great dane).


Is it OK to extend furnace gas pipe to the other side of the house (traversal) to connect a barbeque? I am doing some reno work and I will be opening up the ceiling above an area that would be traversed by an extension of the gas pipe if that could be used to feed a barbeque (winter time and summer time). The barbeque is outdoor and used on ocassions for certain dishes that require this.

The pipe will traverse the house in the middle (along the short side of a square shape bungallow) I would open an outlet there where I could connect a rubber gas pipe the same way I currently connect the barbeque to the propane tank

Is such an extension allowed?
Is using that rubber pipe OK (it will not be in the way) to use summer or winter?

"Is such an extension allowed?"

That's entirely up to at least two entities that "the internet" has no particular way of knowing about, but you do. Call them.

Your gas company (and that may involve an assesment of whether the
furnace pipe is of adequate size to feed both appliances, or not)
Your "Local Authority Having Jurisdiction" or LAHJ - town/city/county/state may have a dim view of DIY gas piping, or they may merely require that your gas company bless it before commissioning, or they may not give a fig - though the last is uncommon in LAHJs with piped gas. Your gas supplier may be helpful in telling you who you need to call locally.


How to keep a block wall from blowing out at the bottom I am hiring block masons to build me a 24' x 44' block building, and I want to know how to keep the lower courses of blocks from bowing under pressure of 3 feet of dirt backfill or weight from the roof. I had to get another block mason since the first one I hired was no good; the second mason did not take down the five courses completed by the first mason, but rather continued to build from there. Now, I am concerned that the wall could blow out. How can I prevent that?

Blocks are very strong under compression from above, so if the walls are bowing under the weight of each course of blocks, that makes me think the walls are not plumb. You would need to tear down the walls and redo them to be plumb.

You say you want your walls to "withstand the pressure of the dirt." Are you burying the structure? Correctly-built block walls may be strong under compression, but they are weaker under pressure from the side. Tread very carefully. It sounds like you may want to involve the services of a masonry professional if you're not sure how to build a block wall in such a manner as to prevent it from collapsing under whatever loads you're putting it under. Built correctly, block walls are very strong. These blocks are resting on a concrete foundation, right? Ideally you would have a concrete foundation with rebar sticking out of it that you would place the blocks over such that the rebar goes through their cores, and then you would grout or concrete the cores to tie the blocks into the foundation. Block walls are very heavy. Without an adequate foundation, the structure is doomed from the start.

If your block walls are not straight, plumb, and tied into an adequate foundation, you'll need to redo them so that they are--end of story. If all of that is fine, there are a couple of ways you can reinforce your block walls to increase their resistance to exterior pressure from a bunch of dirt:

Put rebar through the cores and pour concrete in them.
Apply a layer of surface-bonding cement to both sides of the wall.

Do both, and the wall will probably outlast your great-grandchildren.

But again, I would strongly recommend hiring a professional to help you. You don't want to build a structure that's unsafe. Masonry is heavy. If it collapses when someone's inside it, that person is probably a goner.


Which trade(s) should I hire for structural repairs? I need some structural repairs done to the floor joists of my house. Which trade should I contact for quotes?

I was initially thinking about getting a structural engineer involved directly since I know they will likely be involved to engineer a solution, but then I would need to hire someone else to actually do the work. If I want one-stop shopping is my only option a general contractor? Is there another trade that could come in and just replace/sister all of the impacted joists without requiring involvement from a structural engineer to do any additional design?

Note on Structure Requiring Repair:

The house is  a  single story ranch with CMU foundation (full basement) and gable roof.
As part of unpermitted work, a previous owner bored 1/2" holes within 2" of the bottom of about 15 to 20 2"x10"x~16' floor joists for NM wiring.
I am doing a permitted remodel and realize I need to get this corrected to ensure structural integrity of my home (and also to pass my own framing and electrical rough-in inspections for anyone who says "why are you worried about a few little holes?"). I would go ahead and sister all the joists myself, but I've got more than enough on my plate right now with the rest of the remodel.

Talk to your city to see what they are going to require.  The inspector should come out and assess the home and see what work needs to be done.   There is a good chance that your inspector may say nothing.  I am not sure where on the joist the holes are drilled but really we are talking about something that is completely insignificant 99% of the time.  Also when it is significant it isn't like your joists will collapse.  They will simply start bowing, you will get cracks in drywall or dips in flooring.  I have never heard of a joist snapping due to a 1/2" electrical hole (I have also never heard of one bowing because of this).

So the inspector will probably do one of the following:

Says don't worry about it.
Says I have no idea what that means, hire an engineer (I really feel for you if your inspector is like this).
Suggests a type of bracing.  There are lots of braces and straps meant for situations like this.  They take about 2 mins per brace to install.  I have used braces like this for plumbing, albeit never for electrical.

Who you hire?  Depends on the answer you get.  If #3 then any general contractor will work,  if #2 then try to get a general contractor with experience doing this or one that has a relationship with an engineer to make it cheaper.  For example I could give an engineer I use your house specs and issues and he would OK a brace in about 5 mins because he knows potential deflection of joist due to hole and the amount the brace can handle - him knowing these braces are well over what is needed he wouldn't need much to sign off other than seeing pictures of the joists.  But that is him knowing I would do the work.  If I just contacted any structural engineer in the yellow pages it might cost me 500-1000, since I use someone all the time he might charge $50 or make me pay for next dinner.


Connect Ecobee3 thermostat - no c wire but c terminal occupied I am trying to install a new Ecobee3 wi-fi thermostat to replace my old mercury thermostat. When I pull off old thermostat there are only 4 wires (red, white, yellow, green and a blue tied around). When I look at my furnace there are same 4 wires, plus two additional red and white wires (white is occupying com 24v and red is on Y terminal). Those two wires appear to be running outside to my A/C unit. I do have power extender kit that Ecobee supplies, but unsure which wire goes where or how to fix easily since there is no C wire running to thermostat.
thanks for your help.]2

Connect the blue wire from the thermostat cable, to the C terminal in the furnace. Then connect the blue with at the thermostat, to the C terminal of the new thermostat.


What size lumber do I need for a mezzanine floor to support a 20,000 lbs load? I am thinking of putting a mezzanine in my garage to support 20,000 lbs of load, not including the weight of the floor.  On the floor the area is 20' deep X 32' wide; I  was looking at 4" X 12" timbers for floor joists and 3" X 12" timber boards on top for floor.

What is the maximum distance I can run 4" X 12" fir timber joists without beam support?
What is the maximum distance between the 4" X 12" floor joists if I have a 3" X 12" plank timber floor on top?

There's a really simple answer to this question.

You find a structural engineer, and you pay them to answer the question. It seems like you probably have a special situation, and none of the standard tables out there are going to work.


Dry walls nail pops and wall cracks in ceiling doors and windows I bought a house that was built in 1948 and moved in 3 month ago. Now I notice nails popping from all the walls around my house and new cracks around all windows and doors. I noticed walls joints are showing.
I feel so disturbed, is it foundation issue?
I also hear dripping noise in my vents
( now heat is on. )
I checked the crawl space I found an additional piece of wood added to the foundation, is that normal?

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[6]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/QN7Cq.jpg![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NzSmX.jpg)

Nails popping up above the surface is a common event and usually isn't cause for alarm. The reason this occurs is from slight movement of the framing members (due to expansion and contraction) that over time works the nail loose. Conversely, if the pops and cracks have appeared in a relatively short period of time, it may be time to search more closely for a structural problem. Where I live earthquakes and tremors are common. This quickens the loosening of nails.
Your crawlspace and the framing lumber in it look to be in good shape. This is pretty rare for a house built in the 1940's. I would guess it had some work done not to long ago. If so there might be settling issues that are causing movement.
I can't offer an answer for the dripping noise from your duct/vents. If it is the sound of dripping water it would be wise to verify the problem and repair it soon.
Hammer the pops back in slightly below wall surface. Than screw a 1 5/8 inch drywall screw about 2 inches above the pop. Screws hold better. apply joint compound, let dry, sand, and paint.


How do I paint over a textured ceiling without removing the texture? A painter I had at one time painted the textured drywall mud ceiling (off white color) in a different part of the house.  He had to change to a sprayer because he said the drywall texture was coming off with the roller.  I want to paint the same type of ceiling for a small bathroom.  I don't have a sprayer.  I am afraid to paint due to the texture coming off.  It has never been painted over this texture before.  Do you think I can wet it and scrape it off and still do a light sanding to get a smooth finish?  Or forget everything including the paint and leave like it is?  I am not sure what is under this texture and whether it will be ready to paint and have a smooth finish?

Priming then painting: The texture is water based, so you need to prime first with oil or shellac based primer.  This will seal the texture and "waterproof" it.
Use plenty of ventilation and possibly an organic respirator.
Once primed, any paint can be used (make sure the full drying interval is used).
Removing: will work before any painting.  Put down waterproof tarp, wall-to-wall and taped 6" up.  Use a misting  hand sprayer or a garden sprayer.  Let soak 15 min, respraying  if dry spots develop.  Scrape with a long handled pole and a stiff angled putty knife.  Keep the knife flat and start slowly until you get a rhythm.  No sense in making another repair for gouges.  Clean any residue with a new sponge mop and some TSP or a light detergent.


3 outlets not working When I was pulling my kindle from wall outlet the metal plate hit metal on the connector to the kindle. Metal on metal and their was a spark. I had an Electrician come over and he noticed 3 outlets that were mostly likely on the same grid that were not working. He changed out the outlet and put a ceramic rather than metal cover.  Then he turned the tripped breaker from off to on.  I don't know why I did not check to see if the 3 outlets worked.

I plugged my phone to charge into the newly fixed outlet and by morning my battery was dead and I checked all 3 outlets by plugging a lamp and no light. So what next?

I would appreciate any information.

Double check to make sure that the breaker didn't trip again. Were the outlets working after the electrician finished or did he just figure he got it right and left?

Call back the electrician.


replacing roof screw My Metal roof is 20 years old and a roofer told me to replace the screws with a bigger size. how do I determine my screw size? roof screws seem to have their own standards #10, #12, #14, #16... what does these numbers mean?

The #10, #12 type numbers refer to the diameter of the screw. Larger numbers are bigger/thicker screw. Screws are sized by this diameter designation and also a length.

You could take one or two out temporarily and carry them with you when you go to the store to buy the new screws. You can then easily compare to the new ones to find the correct size.


Outdoor lighting: use 12V transformer or 220 V mains? And use RCD or not? I wish to install some outdoor lighting for meat poultry (they need lights on 24/7 so they can eat 24/7).  I've done some minor electrical work, even installing a circuit, but I'm a beginner.

First some background:  this is in a developing country (Philippines) and aesthetics are not needed, so the wires will be above ground (anyway the ground is very wet).

No code of any sort exists.  The only concern is safety.  I've done some electrical work, in theory ("Thevenin equivalent circuit", lol) and in practice (installing an AC with circuit breaker, dishwasher, etc, in the USA), but am hardly an expert.

Here is my plan:

Refer to the diagram embedded herein:  Some of this had been built, some of it is proposed.  Apologies for my artwork.

Blue is neutral wire (-), Red is hot (+), green is ground.  220V is the mains power supply in the Philippines.  You will note I installed on my own an "earth" circuit (ground) downstream of the main circuit box.  This is because in the Philippines, as is common in developing countries, they don't have ground wires.  So I installed one myself and much to my surprise it seems to work (or so it is implied by my multimeter, it might be a false sense of security however, but let's assume it works).

A = main circuit box.  It has an old fashioned 'pull throw switch' and two 30 Amp fuses that blow once and have to be replaced.  It is NOT connected to ground.

B = a junction box that I made, connected to a homemade ground

C = standard three-wire cable, connected to a three wire (+, -, grd) outlet.

D = two wire light bulb fixtures, THAT WILL BE EXPOSED TO RAIN OUTDOORS, electrically connected to the outlet in C.  I will try and keep these bulbs dry, but they are ordinary light fixtures.  Sorry but I cannot get outdoor light fixtures, and note that only two wires (hot, neutral, no ground) go to these light bulbs.

My questions:

1) will I risk electrocution if the lightbulbs collect condensation (it rains hard here)?  Probably.  But won't the ground stop any real damage to anybody who happens to be standing close to these bulbs?  Keep in mind that there's no ground wire at the bulbs, only at the outlet junction which is five (5) meters away from the bulbs.  How do you ground a lightbulb anyway?  All the fixtures have but two terminals, (+,-), no ground.  I've seen some fancy outdoor bulb holders made of metal so I guess you would connect a ground wire to the metal?
Anyway, if there's a short, won't the fuses at the main circuit box "A" melt/trip/blow?

2) at arrow "E", do I need to install, in series, a "RCD" (Residual Circuit Device)?  I am not even sure they sell them here in the provinces of the Philippines; maybe there's one for sale in Manila I can have a friend mail to me.  What good is an RCD here?  I suppose to detect any short at the lightbulbs?  Do I have the RCD placed correctly, downstream of the junction box B?  Or does it matter (probably it does not matter, it can be upstream of box B?)

3) Last but not least, should I forget using 'mains' 220 V power for wet terrain, outdoor lights, and try something safer like LED 12 volt transformer lights?  Of course that's an easy answer, but I prefer answers to 1-2 first before this 'obvious' easy answer.  Also please resist the temptation to say: 'hire a certified electrician in your area', because in my area in the middle of nowhere there's no certified anything, or rather I'm about as qualified as the next guy (lol).

Diagram:

Your design is dangerous because you don't have safe light fixtures. Outdoor light fixtures, especially at 220V, need to safely insulate all electrical conductors. In an environment full of moisture and active, moving animals, you need fixtures that are secure and sealed. If you can't buy these, maybe you can make some, but don't expect regular indoor fixtures to be safe.

Let's think about how this system gets dangerous. Some of the wiring gets exposed, and a person or animal gets between the hot and neutral legs, completing the circuit. This could happen with two adjacent puddles of water, maybe one touching a hot and the other a neutral. Or a puddle and a rake that's pierced some of your above-ground cabling.

Your "ground" wire doesn't help. Bonding neutral to ground is good because it means that a loose hot wire that touches some exposed metal (or other good conductor bonded to ground) will blow the fuse quickly. You're not in an environment with lots of good conductors; even wet dirt may not conduct well enough to blow the fuse. If you had for example a metal walkway and a nearby metal pipe, you should definitely bond those so they can't be separately energized. But if you're just talking about an electrical system out in a field, bonding the field to neutral doesn't buy you much.

An RCD (residual current device) or GFI (ground fault interruptor) may not help much either, because again you're not likely to leak current to ground. However, these might be a little more sensitive than your fuse so they could help a bit.

The safe approach here is to use proper light fixtures designed for outdoor use in wet areas. These can be low-voltage or high. Low voltage is safer, because even if the fixtures or wiring fails the available energy is not enough to kill you. But a 220V setup that includes sufficient protection for your junctions and the light bulbs would also be relatively safe.

If you stick with your design, at least realize that your ground does not make it any safer. Protect your fixtures and junctions from moisture and from access by people and livestock.


How can I determine if there is any damage to the conductors of a circuit? I recently went to replace a couple 3 way switches and, I am ashamed to admit,  did not do my due diligence when wiring up.   The new switches were a different style and the wiring configuration was seemingly different,  not to mention that this is a 50 year old house without much conduit or even a grounding system.  Though there are quite a few gfci's.

I finished installation and as soon as I put the fuse back in,  it blew.   I put another in, and it was ok.  Went and checked and nothing on the circuit worked.

I must have shorted from hot to neutral through the 3 way switch,  though after thinking on it,  why was there a neutral leg for that switch anyway?

Too late at that point.  Now I am trying understand what I did. ..i get 120v from just downstream of the fuse to the neutral bar, but after it leaves the fuse box, I can't find a hint of hotness anywhere on the circuit.   I'm worried I burned the line open, especially since it looks like the previous owner had a 20 amp fuse in with all 15 amp circuit components.

I feel pretty dumb for letting this happen.   I have two years of electrical and have schooling though it was back in 2009, and I let my confidence get the best of me.

Tomorrow I might look through the basement drop tile ceiling for clues.  Any suggestions on troubleshooting this would be greatly appreciated.

The quickest and safest may be to check the resistance of the conductors with the power off, and determine the resistance it should be based on the material, length, and cross sectional area. Testing in various locations.
Of course this requires some math, and guessing about the conductor length.

Another quick way is to test for voltages with the power turned on. You may also need to have some sort of dummy load to check for high resistance connections, this could be done with a solenoid type voltage tester.

The easiest is to go based on the assumption that the problem is at the connections. That means that it is likely in a electrical box. Make sure that none of the connections are loose or charred in every one of the boxes. You would have still needed to do this with the other tests, but they would have helped to narrow down the location of the problem.

Actually that still isn't the easiest; which is of course to call an electrician.

I will say that it is very unlikely that you blew open the conductor anywhere else. According to a chart on Wikipedia it would take about 600 amps to melt a 14 gauge wire in one second, which is more time that it would take for a fuse to blow. So unless the cable was severely damaged beforehand somewhere along it's length; the problem is in a box.


What could cause my boiler to ignite 3 times then goes off? My boiler ignites 3 times then goes off but the boile people came round and said it was the switch but after they went we turned the switch on and it worked but it goed on for like a minute and goes off i dont know what to do? We got a new board put in 3 years ago? its quite annoying because i have asthma which means the cold affects my chest.

If you get good ignition and the boiler's ignitor stays on the entire time even after you have flame, then your flame sensor or controller is probably broken.

Otherwise, you have a mixing issue. Either not enough air is being moved by the fan or oil is not flowing sufficiently, possibly because of issues with the nozzle.

The 3 times lockout is a safety feature that keeps the boiler from filling up with unburned oil that possibly ignites in an undesirable way.


Preventing electrical back flow on AC circuit breakers Here’s my situation. I am trying to add an electric tankless hot water to a 4 unit building. 4 separate circuit breaker box present.
The water heater requires 4 sets of 40 Amp breakers at 220-240 volts.
I will need to add a separate breaker box which I want to use the 4 existing boxes to supply electricity to. I will take it between the meter and breaker box, thereby eliminating the need to go through the existing circuits but still have it registered on the electric meter. And hence, let the hot water usage be shared among the 4 existing boxes.

My issue is, once I connect all 4 existing box to the new one to supply electricity to the water heater box, I will effectively combine all 4 existing meter as one. I NEED to prevent that.
So I’m thinking that just before the existing boxes connects to the new one, I can add something to prevent box A from from drawing from box B, C &D. This will allow flow of electricity only in the direction from boxes ABCD to the new box for the water heater.
I am not an electrician but I am handy, so any detailed answer will be appreciated. This way I can have help to evaluate whether it’s possible or not and whether I’ll need a skilled electrician to undertake.

Can't be done.

You should get a new meter installed for the water heater.

It's up to you how you get the tenants to pay for the usage. However without also adding hot-water meters for each tenant there is no way to know who is drawing the water and using the power.

Normally landlords embed the common costs in the rent for all units. Or swallow it as cost of doing business.


Is it normal for drill bits to slip in a keyless chuck when binding in metal? I'm trying to drill some 5-10mm holes in 1-1.5mm thick steel. I'm using a DeWalt DCD777 18V cordless drill with Bosch HSS bits (which claim they're made for drilling into metal). Both the drill and the bits are brand new.
No matter what I do, the bit almost always binds into the metal just as it's about to exit the piece I'm drilling, starts twisting inside the chuck, and gets damaged.
Here's a photo of the damaged bits. You can see, especially on the bottom of the bigger one, how the inside of the chuck rips into the bits.
Now, my question is not about how to stop the bits from binding, I've found plenty of advice about that. My question is, is it normal for the bits to slip like this once they do bind? I've been told that a keyless chuck is not as secure as a keyed chuck, which of course makes sense, but how can I tell if it's normal behavior or a faulty chuck? As I said, the drill is brand new, I can still return it and get a refund (or another drill), but I'd prefer to do this only if the machine is actually faulty.
I am pretty sure I tightened the chuck as much as it's possible to do by hand. I'm a pretty strong guy, and the method I use is: one hand on tool, the other on the chuck sleeve; tighten as hard as I can, until I can no longer get it to ratchet. I've also seen videos like this, which advise to back up the chuck a bit after tightening it, to engage the spindle lock, and I tried that too.
The bits do not slip at all when drilling into wood, even on holes as deep as the bit is long. Even when drilling steel, they only slip when the bit actually binds.
So, any tips on how to tell if a chuck is weak?

Yes. It's a common occurrence especially when I use a DeWalt keyless chuck. If the chuck is sized for 1/2 inch capacity it will happen more than 3/8 or 1/4 inch chucks (from my observations).
If I really need a driver or a bit to remain secure and the chuck to keep a solid bite I'll tighten the chuck with Channel Lock pliers or something similar. Grip the chuck with pliers and slowly press the switch until the drill is almost ready to leave your hand.
To facilitate the bit not binding just before it completes the boring task; apply lubricant just after you start the opening. It also helps to keep the bit at a 90 degree orientation (if applicable). Also drilling with the RPM's on 2 setting (fast), but intermittently pressing the trigger (goosing) will make it easier on the bit and the drill with less binding.


What are the "must do" tasks before winter hits? I've had my furnace serviced in time for winter, but what other things should I consider doing before the snow and the ice come?

Clean your gutters
Make sure your chimney is clean
Install storm windows
Empty the gas from your mower

and

Reverse ceiling fans


How can I effectively drain foundation water along the sump pail location? In my crawl space I dug out the perimeter to about 3 inches below the footings. I then laid rock and installed perforated drain with sock to keep out debris and laid rock on top.
I dug a hole for the sump basin in the corner at the lowest point.  Heavy rain came before job was completed and realized the majority of the water is coming in where the hole was dug for the basin. Started second-guessing if the basin should have been placed in that corner and that close to footer. How can I get water into basin?
There is no perforated drain in that corner. I was planning to attach drain pipe into each side of the basin leaving the side closest to the wall with no drainage pipe. How can I get the water from that corner into the basin? Thinking now that I should move the basin in about 2 foot and perforate the basin at the top so the water can drain into basin from that corner. Appreciate any thoughts any one has on this.

From you question and follow on Comment, it appears that the location of the sump pump is at the right location.  It’s at the lowest point and after the heavy rain, the sump hole filled with water.  From your descriptions, it appears that you believe the sump basin is sealed therefore not allowing water into the basin.
From your original question –

There is no perforated drain in that corner. I was planning to attach drain pipe into each side of the basin leaving the side closest to the wall with no drainage pipe. How can I get the water from that corner into the basin? Thinking now that I should move the basin in about 2 foot and perforate the basin at the top so the water can drain into basin from that corner.

If the location is the lowest point in that corner, there is no need to move it closer to the corner.  Continue with connecting the drain pipes to each side of the basin.  If your basin does not have holes in the bottom or in the sides, I would drill a few ½” holes in the sides and bottom and the top if you are using one.  This will allow the ground water to weep into the basin.  You can also wrap the side and bottom with screening to prevent dirt from entering the basin.  I would using screen on the top also to prevent debris from entering the basin.
Dig the hole a little larger than the basin, and surround the bottom and sides with 3-4 “ of drain rocks.
Here’s a link to a YouTube Video showing a similar installation.  I would use drain or crushed rocks on the sides of the basin as well.


How to seal edges of plumbing work for noise isolation. I am looking into sealing some plumbing edges for noise isolation.
The plumbing goes between two levels. The levels are separated by some amount of concrete. I don't know the depth, but it is considerate.

What materials would be ideal for this? I had in mind caulking the edges of the pipes where they go through the concrete, but maybe my first idea is incorrect.

Thanks>

In many locales, fire protection regulations require that all holes between levels be sealed to prevent easy spread of flames.  This is most often done with a fire retardant foam spray.

This should also reduce noise transmission between levels. Two for the price of one!

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


How to wire A/C Thermostat given different wiring conventions I've just moved to a new apartment in which I'd like to replace the current central A/C thermostat with a new one with WIFI control. I hope it's possible! I have basic diy electric skills but no knowledge in Air conditioners.

Current Thermostat

The current thermostat has only two switches (beside the temperature knob) :

Cool / Off / Heat
Low / Med / High fan speed

The wiring of my current thermostat is as follows :

L1-~
L2-0
COMP
R.V
LOW
MED
HIGH

If I understand it correctly, the LOW, MED, HIGH are for fan control,

the L1-~, L2-0 are for line and neutral

andR.V, COMP are for 24V from the unit and for the compressor.

There's another loose wire connected to nothing.

New Thermostat

In the product I wish to buy, there's a different wiring diagram, in which the I don't understand which wire goes where.

7 Live Wire
6 Valve OFF - for three-wire electric valve and fan coil
5 Valve ON  - for two-wire electric valve and fan coil
4 Low
3 Medium
2 High
1 Neutral

Matching Between the Thermostats

I've figured out the Low Med High should be the same, however I'm not sure about the L and N wires and I definitely have no clue what is the Valve ON/OFF terminals are. So far this is my match between the two diagrams

Old        New
L1-~   ->  Live Wire
L2-0   ->  Neutral
COMP   ->  ?????
R.V    ->  ?????
LOW    ->  Low
MED    ->  Med
HIGH   ->  High

Here are the diagrams from the product's documentation:

Finally, the questions :

Are these thermostats compatible?
How to wire the new one to my A/C?
What are the Valve wires?

If there's a solution, a diagram would be much appreciated! If I'm just a noob with no clue and this is not possible, please be gentle :)

It does not seem that the thermostats are compatible, no.  Your existing thermostat is designed to control a heat pump with a multispeed air handler:

L1/L2 are likely 24VAC in
COMP controls the heat pump compressor
R.V. controls the heat pump reversing valve
HIGH/MED/LOW control fan speeds
the unused wire is just that -- it looks like someone wired your 'stat with network cable BTW, which is a bit of a no-no.

The new thermostat you have is designed to control multispeed air handlers in zoned hot water (hydronic) systems instead -- instead of controlling a compressor and a two position reversing valve, they are designed to control a variable-position hydronic zone valve, typically for heating only as they have no heat/cool changeover system or extra outputs for controlling cooling components.


Buying a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one: any considerations? I'm about to look for a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one. There are already a couple of good questions on thermostat replacement that make the task seem pretty straightforward for anyone who's done a bit of wiring (which I have done). The problem for me is this nagging doubt that, from a wiring perspective, all the thermostats I look at are not equivalent and only some would be able to work with the existing wiring.

So, my question is, as I'm looking for a replacement thermostat, is there anything I need to take into consideration?  Do I need to read the back of the box for any specific statistic?  Do I need to check the existing wiring first (number of wires, voltages, etc.)?

You have to check that the thermostat is compatible with your HVAC system.  Heat pumps need the emergency heat switch, multi-stage high efficiency HVAC's have multiple fan settings, and electric baseboards may have 120/240v lines instead of the 24v wires.  For the lower end models, or for those seen in the far north or south, you may have a thermostat for only heating or cooling, but not both.

So before buying a thermostat, check the type and features on your existing HVAC system and limit your selection to the thermostats that support your system.  Then, see what features you want and how easy the system is to use.  Some systems have wifi, some have programs for all 7 days instead of 5/2 split, but if you have all 7 days, how easy is it to change the setting for every day?


Leaking bathtub from seal underneath around drainspout Our tub is leaking from a curved line around one side of the drain underneath the tub.  We have a hole in the ceiling to see it and can see little droplets of water forming along that area.  The underside of the tub appears to be sealed with some sort of black sealant.  Can I just epoxy that area to stop the leak, does the tub underside need to be resurfaced, or does the tub need to be replaced?

"The underside of the tub appears to be sealed with some sort of black sealant"

No, that is just a black rubber washer which acts as a cushion against the rough cast underside of the tub. The seal is provided on the top side by a bead/layer of plumber's putty.

"Can I just epoxy that area to stop the leak"

No, you need to unscrew the strainer from the tub shoe from the top side, pack a bead of plumber's putty around the strainer lip, and screw it back into the tub shoe.

"does the tub underside need to be resurfaced, or does the tub need to be replaced?"

Hopefully the tub does not need to be replaced. Assess any corrosion or damage to the drain hole area when you remove the strainer from above. Ususally there is a bit of surface rust but nothing that would prevent a seal with putty. I have seen old pressed-steel tubs (as opposed to cast iron) with pretty bad corrosion in that area.


Garage Door weather stripping replacement -- single groove My weather stripping came off, is broken, and the bottom of the garage door is slick with a single groove in the bottom. What type of weather stripping should I use? I've seen options online that fit into a track on the bottom, but nothing that I can tell fits on my door.

Edit:
So this won't work  -- but looked close. I don't have a slot on the bottom. Maybe I need to get one. It is from http://www.garagedoorstuff.com/product/clopay-garage-door-weather-seal/

The old seal looks like this:

But I would like a better solution that doesn't fall off so easily.

Yeah, I had that type of bottom on one of my other garage doors. The big center slot was meant for a compression fit seal that I couldn't find a replacement for.

I ended up filling that slot with this being modified. I cut the 2 tracks free, stacked them & screwed them into the top of the big slot to then put in the Clopay type single T-end bulb. A pain to setup, but totally worth it for the ease of replacement twice before I moved out of the house.

However, your old seal's design is fine & just needs to be screwed-in to the door's face every 3-feet to be fully secure & still easy to replace. Something like this is what you'd be doing with aluminum or stainless steel screws through the shoulder that wraps up the door.


12/2 connected to 8/3 wire with extra wires taped off. Is this legal? We just got into a house and I believe the electrical is a mess. House is approximately 40 years old. We found an 8/3 buried wire that runs to a detached shop/shed and about 10 feet from the shed it transitions to 12/2 wire. The extra wire(s) are taped off in a buried electrical box. I am not sure at this time which breaker the 8/3 wire goes to as things are not labeled correctly in the panel. Can anyone tell me if this is legal? Should I change this and route this to a sub-panel and then go to a 20-amp breaker to feed the shed? Thoughts/Suggestions?

Updated: 2/5/2020 Corrected my spelling from Tapped to taped. The wire goes to a breaker on the main panel that is 15 amp. This feed of wire goes a long distance and I would guess over 125 feet minimum so there is likely voltage drop to consider.  The 8/3 wire states "general uses" and is only 110V, not 240V. I suspect this is a normal burial wire.  The extra wire that should be going to the other bus is wired to the ground so it is a hot, natural, and 2 grounds. At the other end in the ground, the extra ground is taped off and not being used. Once it spliced it looks like thy use 12/2 wire, non-burial wire, and ran it the last 14 feet. This wire feeds the shop with about 5 plugs and 2 separate light switches.

As a tap to a second building with no sub panel NO It would not be legal.
The term tap usually means connecting a smaller conductor to a larger feeder and there are some cases where a tap is legal but not here with the info provided.

Maybe it’s legal if this is spliced not tapped if the breaker feeding the 8-3 is 20 amp it probably is ok

(they may have run larger wire to reduce the voltage drop) If the breaker is any larger than 20 amp it is not legal any size breaker larger than 20 feeding this would need a sub panel at the shop/shed sized for 20 amp max because of the 12 awg.

Updated for OP update.  First if “normal wire” like Romex from the splice it is not legal from the splice. prior to the splice a 15 amp breaker the ampacity is fine and the breaker could be larger, voltage drop is not a hard code issue it is a recommendation in the form of a fine print note not enforceable.
My concern is the type of cable. Back to the home if UF it has 4 conductors but 1 is capped with a wire nut.

If it were me I would get some 8-3 with ground UF and a proper inground splice kit.  Extend the feeder to the shed and terminate in a minimum of a 50 amp main breaker sub panel. Drive a new ground rod and connect it to the sub.
Upgrade the 15 amp single pole to a 40 amp double pole. Used the capped wire and the wire on the 15 amp breaker in the main panel to feed your sub panel.
You asked if the “taped” connection was legal, I would guess it is not because it would need a listed in ground splice kit, these are fairly simple some have 4 butt connectors with an insulator that shrink tubing with an adhesive sealant (very inexpensive. Others are higher in cost where the splices are staggered with butt splices and each connection is sealed with shrink tubing with the adhesive sealant , the last type is the most expensive but the splices are made a plastic structure goes around the cable and epoxy is mixed and filled into the plastic and let dry (most expensive)  I use all 3 types and in your case if the box is not always under water go with the least expensive and it will be fine.

So upsize the splice, add your new panel and new ground rod and you will have a nice service, 8 awg wire 125’ is 2.88% voltage drop at 40 amps so you don’t even have to worry about voltage drop.


What is this feed though attachment in my home Load Panel? I am looking to upgrade my outdoor main panel to a Square D QO panel. However, this outdoor 200A load center feeds my indoor 200A load center, and it does so not by using any of the breaker spaces but instead the bolt on piece at the bottom.

What is this called, and are they made for Square D QO panels such that I could upgrade it?

The part I'm asking about is in the dashed red rectangle. It passes the full current on the bus bar to the indoor panel.

Edit

There seems to be some questions about the neutral/ground bonding in this main panel, it is indeed bonded behind the main breaker in this panel. The Meter neutral comes in on the left, the sub panel is getting its neutral (insulated white) and ground (twisted aluminum) bonded on the right. This all checks out to me, so perhaps this diagram helps clear the situation up?

This is call a FEED THROUGH LUG and it's used for exactly what you have.  Feeding from one panel to the next.

Yes, they seem to be available for SOME Square D QO panels but you'll need to check by the model number.


Should you remove sonotubes when possible? When you're using a sonotube in an open excavation, should you peel the sonotube off of your peirs before you backfill your hole? Or is it better to backfill, then only peel the sonotube off of what's above ground?

https://www.sonotube.com/resources/faq.aspx

"Does the Sonotube form have to be stripped from the column after the concrete has cured?

Removal of the form is general practice for exposed column surfaces. In applications below grade, there is no specific need to strip the form unless it is required by local building code. The Sonotube Round form contains no hazardous chemicals and is biodegradable except for the 1-2 mil thick plastic liner on the inside of the form."

So, no. The reason to remove it is aesthetics, nothing more.


Convert bathroom exhaust fan/light combo to light only with 3 way switches I have a Nutone exhaust fan/light fixture in my bathroom. The fan and light are each controlled by their own 2 pole switch, one is inside the bathroom and one is outside. I want to replace the combination fixture with a light only fixture. I would like to replace the switches with 3 poles so the light can be controlled from inside or outside the bathroom. Is there a way to wire this using the existing 2 conductor Romex? All conductors currently come into the junction box in the ceiling.

Short answer is: No

You can't use single pole switches (what you referred to as 2 pole) to create a 3-way circuit. You need another wire that is not available with 2 wire cable.

You would have to replace the 2 wire cable with 3 wire.

However they do have "wireless" switches that convert a single pole switch to a 3-way setup with the wireless switch at the second location. You might check into that.

Good luck!


How do I properly wire this outdoor junction box? I have an outdoor junction box mounted on a 4x4 wood post containing the wiring for an underwater light in a pond, an underwater light in a spa, and two GFCI outlets.  Unfortunately, the box was installed 12" from the ground but due to the fact that the post is "downhill" from the pond, it is not high enough from the water level so water in the pond light conduit (which I gather is normal) will reach the box when the pond floods.  This has only happened once but it shorted everything out and needs to be repaired if North TX gets another season of pouring rain.  There is room to move the box high enough on the post to meet code.  However, an electrician came out to repair the outlets, saw water in the light conduits and drilled holes at ground level to let the water out.  Now, the Koi pond drains into the yard.  He also moved wires around so the two underwater lights no longer work.  I think I can carefully cut the pvc conduit below the electrician's drainage holes and install a new junction box and conduit at a more appropriate height without too many issues.  However, the wiring has me confused.

There are three runs of conduit entering the box.  Two hold only the wire (black, white, green) from an underwater light.  The third conduit has a black and white wire feeding the GFCI plugs (they are wired together and work properly) and a green grounding wire.  There is a red wire attached to a black wire on the spa light and a red wire attached to a black wire on the pond light.  The two white neutrals from each light are attached to each other.  There is a white wire capped on it's own and a yellow wire with another cap on it's own.  Then, there is a third red wire taped to a white wire just tucked in there…no cap.

I think the issue might be that the neutral wires from the lights are only attached to each other.  Shouldn't they also be attached to a neutral going back to the circuit breaker box?  (The box shuts off with a double breaker switch - two switches with a bar attached so they act as one).  Does it make sense that the lone white capped wire is the neutral that I need?  Any idea what the yellow wire is for?

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From experience an extra wire with a different shield color might indicate it as the "Positive" wire in a circuit (or Hot). The electrician may have been planning ahead and to save time ran the extra wire. What I would do is to pick the most likely route of the yellow wire starting from the  opened junction box. I believe you said there was a spa circuit included in this box; start there. I'm guessing that the yellow wire my be for the spa motor. Possibly a speed or rotational direction setting. Or an accessory that has been removed. Either way a safe accurate diagnose/ repair includes a DVM.


How do I install a new header in an exterior load-bearing wall? I am replacing a 36-inch exterior door with a double door, 6 feet wide. It is going into a studded ground floor wall. There is another story above it. House is 24 feet wide.

Assuming I am reading the right table, and reading the table right...

Table R502.5(2) says I use 3 2x8s to span a max of 6' 3" with one jack stud at either end.

Since it is a 2x6 wall, I plan to laminate in some plywood to make the header wide enough.

And then, when I remove the existing door, its frame and header, do I really need to use jacks, etc., or can I just screw a 2x10x8 to the studs on both sides of the new opening while I work?

Assuming that the 3 2x8s will work for you - and it sounds right for your situation then you are fine with adding some sort of plywood to make your header flush.

However I usually (given I have the space) would throw down a 2x6 flat on top of the 2x8s that are on the jacks (yes you must have jacks for your header).  This gives good reference points for top and bottom.


Can I use self-levelling cement over different levels of plywood? I want to put large format tiles in a 10 x 10' bathroom over ditra. I have a solid flooring substrate but it is sloped, losing 1 3/8" over 8 feet. I am concerned about the weight of this much SLC (and the cost). Can I reduce the thickness needed by adding sheets of ply in the low area and then use SLC over the different thicknesses of plywood?

You can add plywood, but I would use deck mud to level those large areas. Since you'll be applying ditra you don't need to feather anything. You're just needing a "fairly level" surface under the ditra and on top of it.

Self-level is brittle and expensive.


Should I use heat resistant paint when whitewashing a brick fireplace? We are going to whitewash our brick fireplace, similar to this picture:

What kind of paint do we need to use to accomplish this? Does it need to be heat resistant?

Note we are just whitewashing the face of the brick (the inside of the fireplace will be painted with a black heat resistant paint).

If you plan to "whitewash" it, I would highly recommend using whitewash (lime-based paint), not normal paint, though it's hard enough to track down these days that you may need to make your own. The face of the fireplace does not need to be particularly heat resistant (though the inside ends of the face bricks may get quite warm), but whitewash will be moreso than paint, and I think it works better with brick than most normal paints do. White painted brick looks ugly in short order.

As for black paint on the inside, good luck with that if you actually light a fire in there. That's asking a bit much, quite frankly. There are truly high-temperature refractory paints, but most of them are pretty-near white. Most (all?) black pigments burn off at high temperatures.


Outdoor Conduit for A/C and outlet I am in the process of putting down some outdoor conduit at one of my properties. I am replacing some old UF wire that wasn't buried properly (or came up over the years) and has shorted.

I chose to go with metal conduit, because from what I've read, the NEC only requires a min. depth of 6 inches.

The conduit will hold the 40 amp 'line' for my A/C unit; if possible I would like to have it also hold another 20 amp 'line' for an outdoor outlet.

My questions are:

What size conduit should I use? (I was thinking 3/4")
Can I snake all wires for the AC and outlet in one conduit (2 conductor 1 ground for ac [8awg] / 1 conductor 1 neutral 1 ground for outlet [12awg]) - not sure the fill on this size
When i stub up, I need to wrap around the foundation a little bit; any issue going above a hose spigot?
Am I crazy for using rigid metal conduit? A lot of people I know say just go 'as deep as I can' and use PVC. But that's against code and even though this won't be inspected I try to stick to code as much as possible.

Thank you for the help

What size conduit should I use? (I was thinking 3/4")

Since you're pulling more than 2 wires through the conduit, you're only going to be able to fill the conduit to 40%.  Since you didn't specifically mention what type of conduit you're using, I'll list all metallic and PVC conduit.

3/4" Intermediate Metal Conduit (IMC) @40% = 0.235 in.²
3/4" Rigid Metal Conduit (RMC) @40% = 0.220 in.²
3/4" Schedule 80 PVC @40% = 0.164 in.²
3/4" Schedule 40 PVC @40% = 0.203 in.²

I'll assume you're using THHN/THWN/THWN-2 conductors, so you'll need to know the area of these conductors in the various sizes.

12 AWG = 0.0133 in.²
8 AWG = 0.0366 in.²

To figure out if the conductors will fit, you just have to add them up.

3 #8 x 0.0366 in.² = 0.1098 in²
3 #12 x 0.0133 in.² = 0.0399 in.²
0.1098 in.² + 0.0399 in.² = 0.1497 in.²

You end up with a conductor fill value of 0.1497 in.², which means you'll be able to use 3/4" conduit no matter what type you choose.

NOTES: For a look at some of the tables where these numbers came from, see this answer.

  Can I snake all wires for the AC and outlet in one conduit (2 conductor 1 ground for ac [8awg] / 1 conductor 1 neutral 1 ground for outlet [12awg]) - not sure the fill on this size

No problem, see above.

  When I stub up, I need to wrap around the foundation a little bit; any issue going above a hose spigot?

Shouldn't be a problem.

  Am I crazy for using rigid metal conduit? A lot of people I know say just go 'as deep as I can' and use PVC. But that's against code and even though this won't be inspected I try to stick to code as much as possible

You can use metallic conduit if you want, but it will likely be cheaper to use PVC (even though you'll have to dig deeper).

I think you may be confusing PVC pipe (used for plumbing), and PVC conduit (used for electrical).  There's no problem at all with using PVC conduit, unless there's a local amendment that restricts its use.  However, you'll only have to bury metallic conduit 6" deep, whereas PVC will have to be 18" deep. So if you don't like digging, metallic conduit might be worth the extra cost.


Outlet tester results for open ground on mixed circuit I have a US house built in 1958 that has been remodeled in many stages over the years. I recently tested a circuit that included ungrounded outlets in the old part of the house. A number of years ago, we remodeled a bathroom and had the electrician replace a couple of ungrounded outlets on that circuit with what were supposedly grounded outlets (with a GFCI thrown in). I checked both those outlets and there is a ground wire connected to the outlet and going into the wall.

My Sperry (plug-in) tester shows an open ground. Do these testers always show an open ground when a circuit doesn't have a ground back to the panel?

Another couple of notes/questions:

On one outlet, my Sperry non-contact tester lights up when I get close to it. This works as expected on other outlets (on other circuits). When I pull that outlet out of the wall and test the neutral and hot wires, hot lights up (as expected), neutral does not. Does this indicate a problem with that particular outlet unit or just the general unreliability of non-contact testers? My tester had the same result with two different outlets hooked up to these wires.
Going back to those "grounded" outlets mentioned above, a multimeter shows about 116V across hot/neutral, but zero from neutral/ground and hot/ground. That seems to indicate that despite the presence of a ground wire, that ground doesn't appear to actually be connected to anything. Is that a reasonable conclusion?

You're about correct on the ground wire being floating loose at the other end

The other end of that ground wire is indeed most likely floating loose; this is OK if the outlet is GFCI protected, though, as the GFCI will trip and save you if something plugged into it tries to bite you.

As to the NCV tester...

Since the neutral is bonded to ground at the main panel, a normally functioning neutral will not light up a NCV tester (you can test this by sticking the tip of the tester into the neutral slot on a normally wired outlet).  It's neither a problem with the tester, nor the outlet.


Relocating central air conditioner coolant supply line I have a central air conditioner installed in the attic with the supply line running down the back of the house and into the condenser. What I wanted to know if I can move the condenser onto the side of the house and have the  supply line ran from the basement and into the unit.

Yes, you can do that. Technically, you can have the condenser unit anywhere you want. You just need a pathway for the freon supply line and the electric lines. Ideally, the closer the air handler and condenser unit are, the better the cooling will be so that needs to be a factor. If you're moving everything around, you might want to consider getting the air handler out of the attic.


How do I extend electrical boxes 3 inches or more? I am hanging a new wall using Genie Clips.  After the clips, hat track, and two layers of drywall, we're talking about an added distance from the electrical boxes of over 3 inches.  Quick research has lead me to electrical box extenders, but they only work for so many inches, so I will need to find another way to accommodate that distance.

I imagine the hack way to do it would be to get a thick block of wood and screw it into the stud with a few long screws then mount the electrical box onto that.  I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work, but something tells me there's a better way.

Also, is there a way to mount an electrical box directly to the drywall?  If so, this would be a more ideal approach for me.  Since this is a huge soundproofing project, the added benefit of having electrical boxes that are detached from the studs would be an extra win even though I still bought plenty of QuietPutty.

Old work electrical boxes are designed to mount directly to the drywall.  They have a flange that rotates out to grip the drywall from behind, pulling the box forward and tight against it:

When installing them, it's best to cut the opening with a knife (as opposed to a drywall router, say) so that the box fits snugly in the hole.


How can I reinforce a wall mounted ikea shelf? I'm wanting to mount the long Hemnes shelf on an interior wall.I'm picking up 3-4 studs in the area that it would be, but they are really oddly spaced.

Would it be preferable to buy separate mounting hardware? The specs for the shelf list 99lb capacity, but I'm not sure if that's referring to the structural ability of the shelf or their recommended max weight on a wall? If I'm distributing the weight across 3 studs, I would imagine that they would support a lot more than that. That being said, I am concerned about the construction of the wall - is there any way to check the quality of studs?

If the limit is referring to the shelf itself, are there any suggestions for reinforcing upon assembly?

After reading through the product info and the assembly instructions, I'd say the 99lbs refers to the max load of the unit itself. For one thing, they don't know what you're attaching to so they couldn't spec out a max load for the units effective bearing weight. And two, the shear load of a lag into a stud through the little metal brackets supplied would be quite a bit more than 99lbs per connection so it has to refer to the box itself. As far as your responsibility goes for the installation, I would want to see you catch at least two studs just to be safe and then use a drywall anchor like these in the remaining two locations as per the instructions. That way your unit will be pulled tight to the wall evenly across the length but the studs will still be bearing the bulk of the load. As far as being able to tell the condition of your framing, if you can tighten down a screw to the point where it pulls everything snug without stripping out, that's the best you can do without stripping the drywall and having a look. If you feel confident you're hitting the studs but they keep stripping out, either your screws are too short, you're piloting too much, or your framing is seriously compromised and you should definitely have a look.


Drilled through one of the biggest walls in my house and hit some sort of black plastic (likely PVC). Did I just drill through a water pipe? I was trying to secure some bookshelves to the wall, and after using a stud finder to confirm it was drywall (and not a stud), I drilled into the drywall. I met some resistance, so, like an idiot, I switched to a wood screw and just drilled into what was there. I removed the screw and noticed that some black plastic was stuck in the threads of the screw; meaning I had likely screwed into a pipe.

The spot I drilled through is right in the center of a very large wall, so I didn't think it would be likely that the builders would place a pipe there. However, the house is 2 stories and there is a bathroom above the wall I drilled through.

There's no water spilling out yet so perhaps it is a drainage pipe?

All that said, am I screwed? What should I do to confirm that I did or did not hit a pipe? What's the best way to go about fixing this?

You likely hit the DWV (drain waste vent) stack.  This is the drain plumbing for the bathroom and is commonly black ABS plastic.

This pipe is typically empty except when waste is moving though it.  Depending on the size of hole, you may find small water spots that gradually get larger or notice a sewer gas odor in that room or nearby rooms.

It is not too hard to apply a patch material to the puncture to fix, but you'd need to cut a good size hole in the drywall to access it.  The other option would be to enlarge the hole enough to get the tip of a caulking gun in to fill the hole and then patch the drywall.


Are bathtub sizes the rough in size or the tub interior size? I am looking at installing a tub and the sizes are not clear what they are.

For example, the "Amiga" bath gives dimensions 72.0″ L x 36.0″ W x 21.0″ H. Is the 6 feet the size of the rough in, or is it somthing else?

In other words if the studs of the wall are 6 feet apart will the bath fit in there?

All tubs come with "rough in" size specifications which indicate necessary framing/opening dimensions for your unit specs. They can often be found online.

Interestingly, yours says:

  Dimensions provided on rough-in diagrams are nominal. Measure your actual unit upon receipt and build according to the actual dimensions.

"


Connecting polypropylene to straight pipe (without inside bevel) I have a couple of connections that seem like they could work but due to lack of the inside bevel I'm questioning whether or not this will be a good idea.
In both cases the threads match and the rubber gasket/washer snugs up nicely creating what feels like a good fit. However, the inside of the straight pipe does not have any inside bevel, whereas normally that gasket joins with pipe that has a angle inside so that it really connects.
Are either of these things acceptable?
Polypropylene to copper drain with male thread:

Polypropylene to Oatey Sure-Vent:

Polypropylene to copper drain with male thread

You should use a rubber 1 1/2" slip-joint gasket for this connection.

Polypropylene to Oatey Sure-Vent

What you have should work fine, as long as the tapered edge of the slip-joint washer fits into the ID of the fitting (as opposed to butting up against it...)


How to bind/pair a Sunvic wireless radio heating controller to its receiver I have a Sunvic wireless controller and thermostat with a receiver base station in the boiler room. It became detached and I'd like to reconnect it with the controller unit.

Note: this is a question I know the answer to but I couldn't find it on the web, so I'm putting it here and intend to answer my own question. I don't think this site lets you answer your own for a few hours, so I'm going to stick the answer right here.

1/ Grab that handy paperclip you keep for poking and hooking things.

2/ Hold the On Off button on the receiver for 3 seconds or until the green LED flashes.

3/ On the back of the controller, with your paperclip, press/poke the Learn button.

Note that the Red LED means 'working' while the Green LED means 'you're going to freeze in your own house'. This might be something to do with Chinese manufacturing and red being their most positive colour.


Water Drainage Towards Neighbor's House We are in the process of purchasing a home in Washington State. We receive a lot of rain and the backyard lawn always seems kind of soggy/standing water. I've looked into a french drain and it seems like a good choice for my case.

The problem is the grade of our property goes from the street being the highest point to our backyard fence being the lowest. I want to be a considerate neighbor. Is there any problem with having my french drain just end before the back fence or is there a better alternative anyone is aware of?

Actually, I think we do get a good idea of the situation and you are correct to worry about (and be considerate) to your neighbors.

You can't CHANGE anything that would "harm" your neighbor's property, but you can "improve" conditions on your property. So, if a tree branch extends over the fence, you can cut it off. However, you can't deform the tree to the point that you kill it. Likewise, you can improve the drainage on your property, but by doing so, you can't harm your neighbor's property, (I.e.: create a drainage swale on their property, soak their land creating a swamp, etc.)

So, installing a french drain is logical and could solve a lot of problems for you, you just need to be careful: 1) how much water you gather, and 2) where the french drain ends, and 3) how it ends.

If it's surface water you are collecting, you might consider:  1) diverting it before it gets to your property...up at the street so it doesn't run down your driveway, and 2) collecting it in a french drain system and letting it disperse out of your french drain system well before it gets to your neighbor's property. I'll discuss how to do that later.

If it's subterranean water, (soggy ground, even when it hasn't been raining for awhile,) then collecting could be a problem. Currently the water is in the aquifer (high water table) and modifying the aquifer is nearly impossible. I've only seen one time when a landowner was able to lower the water table by installing a french drain to divert some of the water closest to their house and discharge it further downhill.

A french drain to me means a trench filled with gravel with a perforated pipe in it to transport the water. So, we use french drains for two purposes: 1) to gather and transport water where we want it, and 2) to gather and store water...yes, store water. When we store water, we excavate a trench (usually 2' wide because the backhoe shovel is 2' wide) and 2'-3' deep. Then we fill the trench with large round rock with no fines (like: 3" minus to 1".) This creates a lot of voids to store the water. You can line the trench with filter fabric to keep the soil from washing into the voids. Most people don't know that about half the water will dissipate through the soil (depending on the percolation of the soil) and about half will evaporate. Evaporation occurs when the wind blows across the ground and draws the moisture out...and I'll bet you have wind in the northwest.

Now, the overall design: So, no matter what you're picking up: surface or subterranean water, you want to keep it contained in your new french drain system for as long as possible. To do this, you want to install each leg (and especially the last most downhill leg) as flat as possible. Remember, you're not transporting it to be discharged, because you'll wash your neighbor's land away, you're gathering it to store until it can be dispersed. Also, make sure the top of the trench is level so excess water will "sheet" out of it, not "stream" out of it.

By the way, the only reason to use a 3-4" perf pipe in the trench is to EVENLY DISPERSE the water. If all the water lays near the top of your property, it won't dissipate as quickly.

So run the french drains where you need to collect the water, including roof drains, but then extend them across the slope keeping them as level as possible. Normally we don't recommend putting surface water (downspouts, etc.) with subterranean water, but I doubt if you have sufficient land to provide two systems and it all has to be dispersed on your property anyway.

Below the last most downhill leg of your french drain, you can landscape with water tolerant plants (talk to your local nursery) and provide ground cover with a 2-3" layer of decorative rocks instead of grass for the excess water to disperse into and eventually evaporate.

Note: It's probably best to start at the bottom of the slope and work your way uphill. Otherwise, you'll be collecting water and it will want to run out where you're working. Also, a hydrologist or a civil engineer with a hydrologic background can calculate the size, depth of trench, etc. for storm water conditions in your area or start at bottom and see how it goes...


Connect C wire Lennox G16 I bought a new thermostat that needs the c wire. Old thermostat wasnt using the blue c and was stuffed back in the wall. Come to find out the blue c wire is not connected to the furnace. Trying to connect the blue c wire to my furnace. As you can see all the wires are connect except the blue c which is wrapped at the bottom of the picture.

Found solution. Just connected C blue wire to the T terminal on the old furnace.


What size wire and breaker do I need for my shed/workshop? I am looking to run electricity to my shed and I am unsure of what size wire and breaker I need.
My main panel will be about 100ft away from my shed. My shed is 12X20 and I want to install 6-8 4ft 4 bulb fluorescent/LED lights, LED flood lights and about 8-10 receptacles. Two of the 4ft lights will be outside under the lean-to of my shed along with 2 of the receptacles.
I will be using table, miter, scroll and circular saws, a router, an air compressor, a shop vac, a grinder, an AC window unit, a shop fan/blower and plan on adding a CNC router, a dust collection system, a 60-80 gallon air compressor and possibly a welding machine on the exterior.
Of course I will not be using all these at the same time but I would rather do it right the first time.

You will not be using everything all at the same time. So I would look at the nameplate Full Load Amps of your largest load, probably the table saw, plus any other things that might be running at the same time, such as the dust collector,  lights and if the compressor is on a demand pressure switch, add that too because it might come one without you turning it on. Then add another 25% for good measure.


Mount an LCD TV to 30 year old masonry fireplace Power and HDMI are no issue. I'm worried about messing with the mortar. Any advice? Will this be an issue, more trouble than it's worth, etc?

I have some alternatives. Leave my TV on the mantle or pole mount it to a beam in the attic.

The main thing to worry about when mounting a TV on a fireplace that you might use in the future is heat damage to the TV. What I did before mounting my TV is get a good strong fire brewing in there for an hour or so, then get a good thermostat reading from the fireplace where the TV would be mounted. Make sure you then check that temperature against the allowed temperature range for TV operation and storage before you start drilling holes in the masonry.

Just because your TV operates on the mantle now does not mean it will be OK after it has a solid connection to the bricks, without that nice comfy air buffer in between.


Is there any way to get around a high waste outlet pipe? I've recently replaced my ancient sink with a new one, the taps don't leak it's sealed to the work top and looks great but the waste out let pipe was just below the old sink and the new one is a slightly deeper design.

As a result the water level in the piping is just below the plug fixture.  I have a second out let for the washing machine but it is in the corner of the room behind all the fixtures so would rather not have to use it.

This is my leaky setup at the moment

I can think of three solutions.
Raise the countertop
Increasing the height of the countertop, could give you enough height to install a proper drain.  Though I'm guessing you won't want to redo the cabinets and countertops.
Modify the plumbing
Lowering the inlet in the wall would give you enough height for a proper drain, and is likely the most common solution.  It looks like that may not be an option i your case, as it looks like that might be a concrete wall.
Install a basin pump
Drain the sinks into a basin, and then lift the waste water with a pump.  SANIVITE® makes the SANIVITE®, which is designed for this type of install. I'm sure other companies offer similar products, so shop around to find one to meet your needs.
With this type of setup, you'll need a power source, and enough space to fit the basin.

Whatever you decide, the current plumbing definitely needs to go.  All the pipe that's below the throat of the wall inlet, will be full of water. That means the trap seal is likely too deep, which will lead to frequent clogging and slow draining.

I do not recommend nor endorse the use of any product mentioned here, all products are mentioned for example purposes only.


How to identify cat5 mid-cable I've recently purchased a house with several cat5 cables running through the attic.  I'm trying to hook one of them up to an access point on the ceiling that is positioned in a place that is about mid-cable.  How do I identify which cable is which without cutting them in the middle?  Is there a tool that can detect a signal in a cable non-destructively?

You can purchase a cheap tone and probe at harbor freight for less then $25. I have one and it works great. Harbor freight calls it a cable tracker, fyi