Help identifying unusual type of toilet flush button My toilet has an unusual type of button to flush it, which is shown in these pictures:

The top part which you actually push and the base both unscrew from the shaft in the middle (which is connected directly to the internal flushing mechanism), and I would like to replace both of them as they were originally a gold/brass colour and have faded significantly over the years. However, all of the retailers I've looked at seem to only sell two types of flusher: a) the button type which sits on top of the middle of the tank cover, or b) the handle type which sits on the front and to the side of the tank cover. I am further frustrated by being unable to search for my type of flusher specifically as I do not know its name.

Do you know what type of toilet flusher this is?

If this is beyond unusual and is, in fact, unique, then do you know where I could salvage parts to replace the top and base of this flusher?

Google "7677-CP KOHLER Portrait Vibrant Polished Brass Flush Actuator".

You'll probably have some issues connecting the old and the new, but this should get you started. The underlying Kohler unit might be useful in the future if you need to start replacing parts...


How do I install an insteon light switch where wire colors don't match? Electrical noob here.  I know enough to turn off the breaker.  I've read a couple of other answers and want to get a second opinion.

I have three wires coming out of the existing switch socket, 2 blacks and a stripped copper.

The Insteon switch has a black, red, white, and stripped copper.

Obviously stripped copper to stripper copper for ground, but I've gone through a few combinations of the other lines and haven't gotten the thing to work.

If I wire the Insteon-white line to either black, and Insteon-black to the other black, the switch comes online but doesn't turn the light on.  If I connect Insteon-red to a black, and Instead-black to the other black, the switch never powers up.

If I understand one of the other posts on smart switches here...  (specifically Why would a light switch be wired with the neutral wire?, I believe this is what I need to do - and what I'm looking for a 2nd opinion on.

First, not knowing which of my wall blacks are load and line (remember every project is an opportunity to buy a new tool!)...

Connect Insteon-red to let's call it Wall-Black-1
Connect Insteon-black & Insteon-white to Wall-Black-2  (3 wires in the twisty thing)

If the switch doesn't power up, then I've connected those to line instead of load and just swap the Wall Blacks around.

Advice?  Am I on track?

As suggested by Speedy Petey, I poked around further into the back of the wall box and it turns out there was in fact, some white wire.  This gave me what I needed to match the diagrams on the Insteon sheet, the unit is now connected as diagrammed and functioning as intended.


What is this strip hanging down inside my dryer? Anyone know? What is this hanging in my dryer???
Is this the rear drum felt?

Based on your description and the photo it appears to be the drum felt. The felt is the seal between the rotating drum and the stationary rear part of the dryer. Replacement will require removing the drum. Consider replacing the belt and the drum rollers while everything is apart.


Can I use a 6 foot long table as the base for a stand up desk? I am looking to create my own cheap stand up desk.  My current idea is to take one of the cheap $40 6 foot tables where the legs fold up and buy 4 plastic crates to put on the corners of the desk which will hold a piece of wood the same size as the desk or a little larger.

Is this a good design? One of my concerns is there is no center support on these tables that have folding legs, all in all I don't think the top porting of the desk would ever have more than 100 lbs on it at a time (although I have no idea how much the wood itself would weigh)

Another related question, how can you determine a good relative stand up height to your own body height?

Update, some great suggestions so far, however I want to keep the project to under $100

I use 2 3-drawer file cabinets with a 8 foot door.  It works really well.  Adjustment higher can be done with some 1/4"-1/2" pieces of plywood but the height works well for me.  It has the added benefit of storage.


How to patch wood subfloor surrounded by gypsum/gypcrete? I have a 1'x 2' of wood subfloor in a bathroom corner that is rotted as seen in the picture. It's 3/4" thick. Below it is around 22" of space and the neighbor downstair. I know that much, but I don't know where are the joists. Originally on top of this plywood part is 1.5"-thick wood, while the rest is gypcrete. I am going to tile all after fixing this and patching everything. But now I don't know what to do with this.

What is the easiest way to patch this rotted wood? Can I just try remove as much rotted wood as possible and use epoxy sealer?

I am diy-er and only have a circular saw, reciprocate saw and a jig saw. If it has to be cut out, how do I find the joists? How can I limit the damage, to the surrounding gypcrete, the below joists, and the pipe?

Before

Assuming that you can't fix this without removing and replacing the subfloor (I can't think of anyway to "do it right" without doing so but I'm not all knowing in that area).  To cut out the subfloor, you can use your circular saw for all but the corners.  Since you know the thickness of the floor, just set your blade such that it's depth is exactly the same thickness (or slightly less) than the floor and have at it.  If you aren't cutting beyond the depth of the floorboard, then there is no chance to cut into a joist.  At the very least, this will allow you to cut a larger hole so that you can better evaluate what's under it.

For the corners and/or next to the wall, I recommend investing in a oscillating tool.  And a straight cut blade (ones on the left):

You don't need a nice oscillating tool for this small job and a cheap one can be had (at least in the US) for $20 from Harbor Freight or similar store (+$5 to $10 for the blade).

When it comes to how to patch it after it's removed, that entirely depends upon what's underneath that you have to work with.  Since this is under a toilet (and you plan on tiling when its all said and done), it needs to be rock solid.  You might have to expose more than your 1'x2' area to make it work and you will likely need to end up with something similar to this:

-edit- here is the video the above image came from that shows cutting out and replacing subflooring due to water damage by a window.

Considering you have plumbing you will have to work around, it might not be an obvious or simple fix and you may have to update the question (or ask a new one) after you get the subfloor removed.


Can I use an 8" dado blade set in a 10" table saw? I have a 10" table saw... this is probably a stupid question, but can I use an 8" dado blade set in this saw?  Is one only supposed to use 10" blades in a 10-inch saw?  I read on some contractor's blog that one should only use saw blades that are within the range of blade sizes acceptable for a particular table saw (per that saw's documentation)... but for the life of me I wasn't able to find mention of the range of allowable blade sizes for this saw last night in reading the manual.

There is NO problem with using an 8 inch dado blade on a 10 inch saw. In fact, it is quite common to do so. I use an 8 inch stack on my Delta contractor's saw with no problems, and before that, I used an 8 inch wobble dado.

You certainly would not want to use a 12 inch blade on a 10 inch saw, as that large of a blade might have clearance problems as it is adjusted. Use of a larger blade also causes somewhat larger tip speeds, so that might potentially cause problems. (Unlikely, but possible, since the differential in tip speed would be only 20%.) Perhaps these issues are what the author meant when they made that statement.

In going to a smaller blade diameter though, the only question is whether that blade will be able to reach the surface of your table. On an 8 inch blade there is no problem.


How to stop paneling cracks around air vent I bought an older home which has some wood paneling that I've been caulking, Spackling, and painting. I've recently had some issues however with an area of the paneling where it was cut to install an air duct. Before installing a new grill, I filled the existing cracks with Spackle and painted over them.
I have noticed that since we have switched from using the AC to using the heat, cracks are starting to open up like crazy. I'm assuming this is due to the lower moisture levels in the air when using the heater as opposed to the air conditioning.
Does anyone have any suggestions for how this could be fixed?

You would have to remove the cracked boards (what you show appears to be what is normally called "bead-board," a subset of tongue-and-groove boards, rather than what is typically meant by solid wood paneling, where "panels" are in "frames"), glue them together properly, and replace them - or just replace them with intact boards.
When doing that you need to install them in such a manner that the tongue-and-groove edges are free to move as the boards expand/contract. This wall appears to have been painted over in a manner that has "locked" the tongues and grooves with many layers of paint, and when the boards shrunk the weaker spot was out in the middle of the board, so it cracked, as opposed to the movement happening at the joint.


Finishing nail gun vs impact driver I'm a new home owner. I need to do some fence work. I want to build some shelves. Do some outdoor landscaping. Fix stuff that needs fixing (the house is more than 25 years old, previous owner jerry rigged a bunch of stuff). I'll hire a specialist for the blow up/flood/burn down your house if you get it wrong kind of stuff.

Currently I have a generic toolbox with screw drivers/hammer/pliers/wrench bits and a power drill. This allows me to get most assembly and some minor fixing done.

I'm considering buying a cordless power tool kit which includes

Circular Saw
Drill Driver
Impact Driver
Multi-Tool
Reciprocating Saw
Worklight

The kit comes with a battery, I already have one, and I plan on picking a couple spares, so theoretically I should never run out of juice.

There is a series of nailers(finish/brad/staple) with a built in air compressor which work with the 18v battery, so I considered picking up the finisher (pop, pop, pop, pop, new pickets and a few shelves, done).

For generic fix your home kind of stuff, what would get me the most bang for my buck? The finisher would join together most stuff, but my research indicates that stuff built/repaired that way tends to fall apart quick. Of the stuff in the combo kit, the Impact Driver would probably keep stuff together better, but there is a time penalty (I guess?). So long as I do a counter sink first and putty the hole, there should be much structural(cracking) or cosmetic issues?

I'm leaning towards the kit, since I think I would be able to get more use out of it after I take an intro to woodworking class, and it only cost 50 bucks more than the finisher.

EDIT:
I wasn't sure if it was okay to post tool brands but it looks like its okay from the answer and comments. The combo kit is from home depot, same with the finishing nailer

Impact drivers are great tools if you ever want to drive screws; they are far easier to use for this than drills are. I think a finish nailer is a bit more of a niche item; you can use it to put up trim (baseboard, casing, that kind of thing), but you can't use it for anything structural as the nails aren't big enough.

I've owned two Makita impact drivers and have been happy with them, though mine are from the pro line and I don't know about the quality of the combo kits.


Is there a peaceful way to handle this bird slowly destroying my car? There is a pest of a bird doing everything it can to damage my car.

Its actions are best described by watching it in a YouTube video, though I'm not certain how or if SE allows embedding, so here is a link:

https://youtu.be/3JRmFax6oZo

It appears to want something inside of the glass or reflected in the glass, as it can be seen at the 1:52 point in the video to be pecking at my sunroof, but the the only thing under it is the beige cover, so the car's interior is not visible.

It also does not peck at any of the metallic parts of the car, only the glass. It is hard to catch, even on video, but I have witnessed the bird take interest in its own reflection in the mirrors.

A car cover is not an option for me as it attracts other pests, such as mice and rats, plus car covers do not last long where I am because of the very high wind gusts.

I certainly do not wish to harm the bird, and this is the only bird in over 10 years of living here that has ever done this.

If anyone knows a way I can convince the bird to leave my car alone, I would be greatly appreciative.

A cat would work LOL. Lots of bird problems this week. If you have a garden hose close. I use a motion activated water sprinkler. Probably will only take a few times and it wont come back. Motion sprinkler it keeps the geese out of my pool.


How can I create an "invisible" transition between different flooring types? I am looking for a flooring transition for tile to hardwood, tile to laminate, and laminate to hardwood.  I really do not like the transitions that are raised above the rest of the floor. All of the flooring in my house is exactly flush when it meets. I am wondering if there is some sort of "invisible transition".

Solid hardwood is a tough one because unlike the other materials, it expands and shrinks. Laminate and especially engineered hardwoods with a plywood core are much more stable, but they will still expand and shrink a little bit. Certainly more than tile!

I'm in the middle of installing plywood core engineered hardwood in my own house and I have tile transitions. Here's what I'm doing: I'm leaving a 1/2" gap between the tile and the engineered wood and putting grout-colored silicone caulk in it. That way any expansion or contraction of the wood won't cause it to buckle against a more inert material, but there's still a visually-pleasing material in that transition.


Y Plan Sundial - 150V on orange wire, boiler stays on in heating only mode I have a Sundial Y-plan configuration. The 3 port midposition valve is a Honeywell V4073A and have a Worcester Greenstar 18ri.

After replacing an older 3 port valve which had become stuck with the Honeywell V4073A , I found that the boiler was no longer switching off when in heating only mode and the room thermostat was satisfied.

When the thermostat was demanding heat (pin 5/white live), I was seeing 230V on the orange wire from the 3-port valve (when disconnected from the wiring centre). When temperature was reached at the thermostat (pin 5/white 0V), I found that the orange wire from the 3 port valve was reading 48 volts! As the orange wire is connected to pin 8 and therefore the boiler live (L/R on pump overrun configurations), the boiler continues to fire.

Measured during Hot water was off, pin 7/grey live.

If I switch HEATING off, then WATER on, then water off on the programmer, then the boiler does switch off. The orange wire then reads 0V.

According to V4073A FAQ:

  When this Heating demand is satisfied, during a Heating ON period, 50V to 150V (voltage can vary
  according to the supply) will remain on the orange wire...

So the voltage you've found is there by design. Unfortunately, it's enough voltage to trigger the boiler's relay when it's supposed to be off.

(As the programmer is in HEATING only mode, the grey wire will be live which keep the central heating/A port open.)

You have two options:

Use a relay - Wire in a strict 230V relay (Such as http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4334076/) between the boiler switched live and pin 8 on the wiring centre
Use the official "RC" device - The RC device (Worcester part 87161092750) pulls the voltage down below the tolerance of the boiler's relay. Only when a full 230V is present will the boiler fire. The RC device is wired between Neutral and the L/R (switched live) terminal. There's no polarity, so use either wire for each. In a wiring centre, it would be installed into terminals 2 + 8

I chose the RC device so that it was supportable and maintainable by others in the future.

Edit:

The official RC (resistor–capacitor) device is actually a Roxburgh XEB 1201 noise suppressor. I guess the resistance of this (120Ω) causes the voltage on pin 8 to now read 21V.
It comes in a Farnell bag, so pretty confident it's resold without modification. Buying direct would have saved me £20!


How should I compute the clear span of a purlin in a roofing system? My house employs purlins to support the roofing rafters. (this video explains almost perfectly what I have in the house). There are two purlins, about 6 feet from each other and the top ridge of the roof. The purlins are 2x8 and are supported by struts at various points.

One of the purlins is in the way of a potential attic access. I keep bumping my head on it. I'd like to move it a foot or maybe 16" away from the other purlin and closer to the wall supporting the rafters. This purlin spans over a room for about 11 feet. At one end it is connected to an exterior wall, at the other end a strut (as depicted in the video).

Ok.. the question:
What is the formula/table required that determines the appropriate span and spacing for the purlins? I'd like to use that to figure out how much flexibility there is in relocating the purlin up or down the rafters or replacing the one purlin with two purlins that split the difference.

Update: Some measurements (rounded):
The rafters are supporting a single layer of 50-year asphalt roofing.
From the ridge to the exterior supporting wall, rafters measure 203 inches.
From the ridge to the first purlin measures 25" oc
From the first purlin to the second purlin measures 65" oc
From the second purlin to the exterior wall is 114" oc
Both purlins are independently supported. At the exterior wall, a 2x4 support nailed to 2 2x4 studs that rest upon the top plate of the exterior wall, the purlins rest on the 2x4 in both cases (to be clear, not the same 2x4!) Approximately 11 feet away is the next support, attached to the top plate of an interior wall using a 2x4 strut exactly as represented in the video.
Roof is a 4 / 12 pitch roof.
The entire structure is on a concrete slab.

You’re thinking of the “tributary area” on a beam.

Just take half the distance to the next support and that is your “load” (live and dead load) on the beam. They don’t have to be uniformly spaced.


How to frame for a porch beam? I am working on a 10' x 12' building with a 6' porch (16' x 12' overall). Roof is a simple gable that will cover the porch.

The porch roof will rest on 2x beams, which are supported by posts at one end, and by the building at the other end. I'm trying to figure out the detail of how to frame the wall to support the beams.

My plan right now is to shorten the last stud on the front wall, to act as a jack stud under the beam. Then I have a king stud next to it. Then a 3rd stud, to act as a nailing surface for drywall on the inside. (This is a full-length wall.)

The shorter side wall's 2nd top plate will be notched to fit around the porch beam. This weakens the joint between walls, so I may add a metal plate, as seen in Advanced Framing.

Front wall framing plan:

Is this a good approach?

I've considered extending the porch beam in to the side walls, perhaps to the next stud, but that would complicate things a great deal.

EDIT: Design snow load is 25psf here. With a 1' overhang, the total load on the beam is 1500lbs. Roofing is metal, slope 4:12.

Jay's plan to use beam pockets in the front wall will work fine. Dbl. top plates with no additional structure supporting a roof over a SIX foot span (as per Tester101's first suggestion) is entirely inadequate. Whether a 2x beam on edge is adequate, and how deep it is, depends on what the roof snowload is, if any.

There are also hardware beam hangers available that support the end of the beam and are nailed or bolted to the supporting studs in the front wall, eliminating the need to frame pockets. Tester101's second suggestion to use a ledger to support the beam end is a viable idea, but the connection of the ledger under the beam, into the studs needs to be carefully detailed.

A metal plate tying the two walls together is an important detail. Alternately, extend the dbl. top plates over the beam, lowering the beam 3" so the plates can still lap in a conventional manner. If you go with a hardware hanger or a ledger, the beam should be strapped to the sidewall top plate to hold it to the main structure in a wind storm or possibly an earthquake.

Along wind storm lines, be sure the beam is well connected to the outer post, and the post tied into the foundation, as there can be significant uplift forces on an open porch roof.


What happens if XPS is an inch away from basement walls? I live in Maine and am planning to insulate my basement.  It has fairly smooth poured concrete walls.  I've read online that spray foam is one option, and 2" of XPS directly against the wall is another option.

I was at Home Depot today, and a salesperson there told me that he would leave a 1" gap between the wall and the insulation.  I don't believe this is the correct thing to do (instead, the foam should be flush against the wall), but my question is: what would happen if one did that?

My guess is that in the summer, moisture would travel from the ground, through the wall, into the air in the gap.  Depending on the temperature of the foam, it could condense and create a problem.

But then my follow-up question is: how, exactly, does the foam being flush against the wall prevent that condensation from happening anyway?

I appreciate your insights - this is interesting information, but I am still on the steep part of the learning curve.  :)

It doesn't make sense to me at all.  Yes adding a one inch gap does add R value as does any dead space - but then why not a 20 inch gap?

Also I am not sure how you install xps with a one inch gap.  Of course your could add furring strips and then you still have to fire block.  Wow that is just tons of work.

Why would he say that?  I guess he doesn't want the XPS to get wet if you have moisture problems.  Well xps handles moisture just fine and the reason it is often put in basements is that it can get wet, retains very little water, and does not mold (to a point).

The XPS should be on the wall.  You want a "bigger" gap for airflow for the drywall.  Your drywall will mold faster than anything in a basement.  So you want as much space for air to circulate on both sides of this.  Using 2x4 framing gives ample space for small amounts of moisture to dry before it attaches to the drywall and molds.  Would one more inch between XPS and framing help?  I am sure but not sure it is worth the returns which will be very small.


How can I figure out where squirrels are entering my attic? Squirrels keep getting in my attic but I can't figure out where they're coming in. There may also be chipmunks, as I found a bunch of sunflower seed shells inside a lawn chair bag that was laying up in the attic. I can't figure out how they are getting in the attic. There is a vent above the kitchen that I was suspecting but when I checked it the flaps were closed.

How do I locate the entrance where the chipmunks/squirrels are getting into my attic?

There may be many points, and they may not be what you think. First off, squirrels can squish themselves down and fit through a hole much smaller than you'd think they could. Don't rule any holes out because they're too small (well, other than say the vents in your soffit).

Check soffits, vents, corners, anywhere wiring or pipes enter (anywhere in the house).

It's possible they're coming in around the foundation, or through your garage, and then climbing up walls or even on the inside of walls. Look for any holes, including under decks, stairs, etc.

In the winter, seeing their tracks in the snow can point you in the right direction (but the sooner you can get rid of them the better so don't wait until winter).


Do I need to remove the oxide coating from steel before painting? I have some hollow section steel beams that I want to paint. They are covered in black greasy substance that I think is black oxide and oil. I can degrease it, but do I need to remove the oxide? I've tried to google this, but all i find is the description of what this oxide is and its purpose.

Red or black oxide is essentially a primer. It does help prevent rust a bit in the short term. I'd degrease, sand a bit if needed, re-prime, and paint. No need to strip the steel bare.


What size start capacitor should I buy for my refrigerator compressor? What size (in horsepower) 3-in-1 start capacitor should i buy for my fridge compressor?  I have an LG LRSC26922TT from 2003. The compressor isnt staying on due to (i think the PTC hooked to the compressor). So i am eliminating the capacitors on top and the ptc on the compressor and putting a Supco 3-in-1 start capacitor in. I tried to upload pics but my phone is giving me crap. The nameplate inside says 3.5 amps in general. I'm trying to find out how much horsepower the compressor is by taking volts x amps = watts. And Watts ÷ 745.7 = horsepower ...anyone know the amp rating of the compressor at surge or continuous? OR the horsepower of the compressor? I can choose between 1/4 - 1/3 hp OR just 1/2 hp.

What is the PTC?    For the horsepower, you need to add in the power factor which is somewhere around 75% and use the input watts of +/- 1000 not the 745.7 figure you used. Is the compressor a psc which uses a capacitor all the time. What is a Supco 3 in 1 start capacitor? You have a lot of variables you need to consider. If you are not exactly sure what you are doing call a service tech or continue to play " Russian roulette"


Non remote controlled ceiling fan turns off and on by itself I have a ceiling fan that we turn on each night as we go to bed. During the night it turns off for an intermittent amount of time and then back on by itself. It is not a ceiling fan with a remote control, it is older than that. We have checked the wires and cannot see anything in the ceiling fan that looks worn. Any suggestions?

We turn it on with a wall switch. There is no light in the fan.

Sounds like a thermal cut if fan even has one.Running long periods of time motor getting to hot shuts down and when temp ok will run . If it is old fan may be best to replace fan.Motor may be on way out .


Permanent USB Power Off Mains I'm having my house (in the UK) rewired and want to install some PIR sensors (link) in a few rooms. Instead of using batteries there's an option to have them permanently powered via USB cable. Is there a device (transformer?) I can have my electrician install to step the mains power down and provide a permanent USB supply?

Thanks!

EDIT:
Maybe something like this is what I'm after? A 240V to 5V Switching Power Converter. Unfortunately there's not much info on it...

EDIT2:
Thanks for the help I've found what I was after: USB Euro Module Charger

Transformer, rectifier, regulator - aka, a USB power supply.

There are, of course, the small switching supplies that plug in, as seen as phone, ipad, ipod (or any other USB device) chargers.

I know that there are power outlets (ac) with built-in USB outlets available for the USA system - depending on the speed and conservatism of the UK electric regulators, that sort of thing will either exist, or be coming at some point. Looks like it's a done deal:


Should I seal my granite countertop? I recently redid my kitchen and brought new granite countertops. The company that did the installation was crappy and I had to put in my own supports and other odds and ends that I thought was standard for installation. I asked if the granite was sealed, and they said they didn’t know. I have two questions, how can I tell if the granite is sealed, and if I find it isn’t, do you know of a product that I can use myself?

There are a lot of bad fabricators installing granite these days. I have seen everything from edges that are waxed instead of polished and tops that are dyed to make them look like a more expensive stone than the fabricator purchased. If they did a bad job there is no reason to believe any of it is done right.

Do the water test suggested above. It will tell you if it needs sealing. It likely does. I would also watch the edges. If they start to go dull in a few months then you really got taken. Polished edges will last a lifetime. Waxed edges a few months. Polishing takes about 15 minutes a foot with very expensive tools. Waxing takes seconds with cheap wax. This is only one example of many tricks to pass off bad granite countertops.

All granite countertops are not created equal. If you purchased from a guy with lawn sign working with only a cell phone as many today do you got what looks like a good price for a countertop but wait until you try and get warranty work. Good luck because if your installer did not know if it was sealed and you are already doing corrective work you are likely to be even more disappointed in the future as the top ages.


Will having a joint between concrete beams weaken a structure? My house is currently being constructed. It is a 20x60 foot plot. The boundary walls on the left and right sides are 4 inches thick. The beam on the right side 4-inch wall has been constructed. Now all the cross beams from left to right wall will have a joint with the already constructed beam on the right side wall. There are seven beams across the plot that are going to be constructed from left wall to right wall.

Will it diminish the strength of the house?

Is there any technique to fix the cross beams with the right wall beam so that there is no joint between the right wall beam and cross beams?

Yes, it is weakened. The allowable shear stress at a cold joint is greatly reduced from monolithically poured concrete. However, concrete is not that great in shear strength anyway, the reinforcing helps greatly in supporting the beam end. Is the rebar and reduced bond strength enough? Only the beam designer can say for sure. I don't like it, the beam end is the very worst place for a cold joint, but I'm not the designer. It may be OK though not ideal, or it may be a huge problem.


What are the drawbacks of using a GFCI instead of a proper ground wire? I notice that it is considered up to code to install a GFCI in the absence of a proper ground, but that it must be labeled (link). Why is this? Does the GFCI have some drawbacks compared to a proper ground wire? Is it safe for people but dangerous for equipment?

Correct.

GFCI is actually the ideal solution for the people problem (shocking people) and serves that purpose better than grounding.  Assuming no boneheaded bootlegging of grounds.  But GFCI (alone) does nothing for the ESD/lightning problem which can damage sensitive electronics or cause goofy problems with radio transmitters.

Current travels in loops.  Current wants to return to source.  For natural electricity like ESD and lightning, the source is ground, not neutral.

You need fair warning of the lack of equipment ground, hence the labels.  The labels also allow you to pass inspection on 3-prong outlets without a ground.


There is a pvc pipe that goes into my floor next to my water heater and central ac unit and its overflowing..but why? Let me start by saying i'm not a plumber nor have i done HVAC.
Last night i walked in and noticed I've  have a leak in the corner of my living room so i looked for where it was coming from and on the other side of wall  is a closet with my central air unit and my hot water heater, neither are leaking directly.
I notice the water was overflowing from a PVC pipe in the floor (what looks to be a drain) but has a pipe from the hot water heater and a pipe from the central air unit leading down into it.
It doesn't seem to be overflowing constantly, i had it pretty dry last night and my wife took a shower this morning and it started overflowing again.
Why would this be happening?
Also: I  live in an apartment and I have contacted maintenance/plumber, but they're usually pretty slow about things so I'm stuck between should i wait from them or is it something i can fix myself.

Though a photo might help, from your description, this is most likely a drain, as you surmised, meant to take the flow from the water heater, should the over-pressure valve pop open or leak, and condensation from the air conditioner that has not evaporated.
Since this drain receives little or no water on a regular basis, it could be blocked somewhere down the line and not be noticed. The blockage could be before the main drain pipe, and after the shower drain, so that water from the shower is backing up into the pipe and overflowing.
You might try using a drain snake from the shower, and from the overflow pipe, if you can feed it in, but since you live in an apartment, you likely would be responsible for any damage. My inclination would be to put some old towels around the pipe, and give written notice to the landlord and to the building superintendent warning them of possible damage to carpet, underlayment and to other apartments should this not be promptly repaired.


Powering a 120v Receptacle off of a 240v Circuit Breaker dedicated to an Appliance I have a 240 volt 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker powering an outdoor appliance that has 2 electric motors and a motor control unit to synchronize them.  I would like to wire a receptacle off of 1 hot leg of the 240 volt breaker instead of having to wire it to another breaker because of ease/cost.  I have been trying to see if this would be up to code.

1 hot leg would run to a disconnect switch then to the motor control unit, the other hot leg would run to the receptacle then the disconnect switch then the control unit, then the neutral would run to the receptacle then to the control unit.

Thanks in advance for any light you can shine on this.

Edit:  It is a 4 wire feed (hot/hot/neutral/ground).  The appliance is hardwired, the feed goes into the motor control unit, then from there out to each motor (It is a 2 motor boat lift, each lift beam/motor assembly is independent).  The motors can be powered 120v instead of 240v, but it is not currently wired that way.  It is an older appliance/lift, there is no product literature for a UL listing and the company has since closed.

Using a neutral for multiple hots creates what the NEC calls a "multiwire branch circuit". There are specific requirements , but generally the code requires all hot conductors of a MWBC be disconnected simultaneously with handle ties or multipole breakers. There is a requirement for MWBC's to only serve line to neutral loads unless fed by a multipole breaker, not just a handle tie. [2017 NEC 210.4(C)ex.2]

There are technical aspects that deal with types of appliances and percentage of circuits that fixed in place appliances are allowed to use that may render sharing the circuit with receptacles illegal. Specific requirements required in the installation and operating instruction are part of the UL listing, and may also render sharing the circuit illegal.


MR16 LED Bulbs - Fitting too narrow and replacing old Halogen bulbs In my kitchen I have 4 halogen MR16 bulbs which I would like to replace with LEDs. I have been given loads of LEDs by a friend but I have found that when I fit them into the existing fittings the box bit at top (which the two pins come out of) is a little wider than the old Halogen one. As a result, I cannot push the housing back into the fitting ring.

I suspect I need to replace the ring that is in the ceiling and the housing dome too.

My questions:

Are all rings a standard size and therefore if I just buy a nice chrome one for some where it will fit?
Is the existing wiring/transformer/connector going to be okay with my new LEDs?

This is my first post in the DIY Stack Exchange, so please let me know if I need to supply more info etc...

The dome housing:

The whole fitting:

The ceiling ring:

My old and new bulbs (old on the left):

It's common for LED MR 16's to not fit the same as their predecessors.  Those types have the AC to DC rectifiers built in and work with most any 12 volt supply.  Those cans probably have a small 50VA magnetic transformer attached to it inside the ceiling for each can, verses one big gigantic transformer for all the lights.

As for the gimbal not fitting back in the can, sounds like you need to find a different LED bulb instead of trying piecemeal together multiple parts.

Your trims don't seem to be from a popular vendor such as Halo or Lightolier. Your best bet is to look for some part number and google it.

If you're still hard-pressed on replacing the trim kits and not the entire fixture, you might can buy a 4" GU10 trim kit from the local hardware store and use the MR16 bulb instead of the GU10 bulb, and maybe, just maybe it will cover the existing hole and/or not fall out from being incompatible.


Can I replace an outlet that uses knob and tube wiring with a grounded outlet? Can I replace an outlet that uses knob and tube wiring with a grounded outlet? Obviously the best choice would be to replace the old wiring. Is there a standard way to ground these outlets? Do I need to run a wire back to the circuit breaker box? Do I have even the slightest idea of what I'm trying to ask?

If you need a receptacle that can accept a grounded plug but don't actually have a need for grounding, you have two options: (1) a GFCI-type receptacle marked with the words “No equipment ground,” and (2) a three-prong outlet protected by an upstream GFCI and marked with the words “GFCI protected” and “No equipment ground”. See section 210-7(d)(3) of the National Electrical Code.

If you actually need grounding, I'm afraid there are no shortcuts: you will have to rewire.  A trick to avoid opening the walls is to run the new wire in the (unfinished) basement or attic, then drill up from the basement or down from the attic into the wall where you want the receptacle.  Try to be a little more careful than the previous owner or electrician who rewired our house: we have a couple of holes in the floor because someone missed the wall!  If you rewire, you may have to obey the code's requirements for number and placement of receptacles, not sure.  In our house, the old two-prong outlets in the baseboards have been disconnected and left in place.


1/4" Reverse Osmosis Filter inlet line to undersink cold water line I am trying to connect an under counter Reverse Osmosis ( R.O. ) filter inlet line (red 1/4" tubing) to the cold water supply line (3/8" black tubing in picture) under my kitchen sink.

Can anyone help me figure out what sort of Tee/adapter fitting I need to get this done?

Obviously I still need the black cold water supply line to feed the sink faucet as well as this red R.O. Filter inlet line.

I also want the shut-off valve to be in the line to the R.O. filter.

Thanks!

enter image description here

Additional pictures here showing sizes of connections:
https://i.imgur.com/WViRYcs.jpg
https://imgur.com/1W8dRrq.jpg
https://imgur.com/M18gamH.jpg

You need a tee that has two females and one male. The typical size for this situation is 3/8" or 1/2", you note that you have 3/8"

Use Teflon tape on the threads too.

Note that one of the images below is 2M1F but is otherwise visually representative of what you need


What is this green pipe with an open end sticking out of the ground? I'm looking at an REO property, and I cam across something and have no idea what it is. it appears to be a green pipe pipe in the ground that is open on top. It's on the side of the house, and there is a slight impression in the ground near the pipe .... There is relatively new fuel oil tank in the basement, so perhaps it's where they removed the old one? i really have no idea, but it seems strange and I was just wondering if anyone has an idea

Try picking it up.

No, really, are you sure it's actually connected from something? It looks like a leftover piece of material that was leaning against the structure until it got kind of stuck in the ground.

Maybe it's a random piece of junk stuck into the ground by another bidder, to trick the current holder into accepting a lower price. If this proves to be the case then you should draw cracks on the windows and bid even lower.


How can I temporarily disable a garden hose tap without an interior valve? I have a  water tap in the garden of the house. My little son keeps opening it regardless of how tight I close it. I would like to seal it off. I was hoping to find a metal cylinder shape element which I can screw on the tap water end. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Please note that I can't close the water supply to the tap.

You can get a hose cap and screw it on nice and tight.

You could also remove the handle if it has one screw in the middle.

You can also do a web search for "locking hose bib" and find a plethora of options.


How can I powder coat a metal door in place? I am interested in powder coating a bulkhead door. The problem is that normally with powder coat you need a temperature controlled oven that holds the item at a certain temperature for 10 minutes. In this case the door is attached to the building.

Is it possible to use a heat gun to cure it?

I doubt a heat gun could provide satisfactory results unless you are exceptionally skilled with it.

However, there is no reason you could not build an oven around the door.  Is that easier than taking the door off?  Probably not.

I am thinking taking one of these:

(175,000 BTU/hr liquid propane heater)

Bypass or modify the heater's thermostat to allow 350+ °F output, and build a heat resistant enclosure around the door.

This is definitely a DIY project if ever there was one with plenty of pitfalls and excitement dangers.  With adequate precautions, it can be successful:

no volatile or flammable materials inside the enclosure
the oven environment will be low oxygen and high CO2
heater airflow will be challenging to manage
temperature management will be challenging


Fluorescent light only flickers when I turn it off My fluorescent light shows no sign of life when I turn on the light switch, but will flash on one end when I am turning off the light. I've checked the ends.

It is one of two problems. If you have another fixture with the same bulb, try switching the bulbs to determine if the bulb in question is bad. If you can't do this, then go to your home store and buy a new bulb (bring the old one with). Try it it the fixture and if it works, great, problem solved. If the problem still exists, then your ballast in the fixture is bad and you will have to replace it. You can usually get those at your home store too and they're easy to replace. The procedure to replace them depends on the type of fixture so we'd need a photo if you determine that's the problem.


Chimney still leaking despite reflashing and coating My chimney was leaking and the contractor pulled apart the roof around it and reput it with proper sealing and coating. Then he also coated the entire chimney with Geocel siliconized seal which is supposed to be best but we got slow ran for last 8 hours and to my surprise the chimney is still leaking.

Examining the leak in attic, the breaks of chimney are all wet and there is slow dripping from several points all around chimney.

So how could the water still get in?

My contractor will follow up but he even he probably doesn't know for sure what's going on. Any hints?

This is north west US area.

Update

Here is the picture inside the attic. The dark shade is the wet area. This was take earlier, now almost the entire wall is wet and dripping slows from different points. It's like 1 drop every 5 seconds or so. I don't have picture from outside but its very glossy now after we coated it.

[![enter image description here][2]][2]

Outside

[2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/323ma.jpg

Water gets into a chimney by one (or more) of five ways:

Via the actual opening of the flues
Yours have metal covers, so this is probably okay.
Via missing, cracked or deteriorated flaunching on the top of the chimney
This is very common as the mortar has a very hard life. Your right side flue isn't sitting vertical which means it's dropped and unlikely to have a good seal to the flaunching.
Via the brickwork itself.
Mortar erodes to the point where perpends or cross joints are non existent. Water can run in and down such erosion. Difficult to tell what condition your is in from the pic. Plus the chimney is a poor design with very little oversailing to throw the rainwater away from the main body of the walls.
Via the brickwork to roof connection Usually metal flashing.
Your's look to be in a bit of a state, repair on top of repair is unlikely to be effective. Plus, it looks like the long horizontal section looks to be in one piece. If this is lead then it's almost certainly cracked. Max length for lead is around 1.5m usually. Thermal expansion and contraction will crack long lengths of this 'thin' lead.
The roof material adjacent to the chimney
Very common for tiles etc. to be broken underneath the metal flashing etc. They never get replaced as the flashing makes this difficult. Heavy handed installation of flashing often leaves tiny cracks in the tiles which form into full splits over time due to weather (hot/cold/frost etc.)

My best guess is the flashing wasn't great to start with and the repairs haven't been effective. Plus the top flaunching needs to be in one piece.
If it is the flashing you might find that the waterproof sealing of the brickwork has made leaking worse, by the simple fact that the water now runs straight off the brickwork surface and onto the ineffective flashing in greater quantity. Brickwork naturally soaks up a certain amount of water and naturally evaporates the same in dry weather.


How to connect different wire colors I have an outlet that’s connected to a switch. You’re supposed to plug in a lamp. But I want to remove the outlet and connect wires to run a ceiling light. When I took I off the outlet the wire colors were white, yellow and pink. Which one do I connect to my Romex wires that are white, black, and the ground? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Can’t do it
The unusual wire colors mean one thing: this house has conduit for its wiring. That would only happen if your jurisdiction requires it.
It’s rather unfortunate.  If you had spent hours watching Youtube videos on extending circuits with metal conduit, you’d be eager to get into what happens next.  Sadly you watched videos on extending circuits with “Romex” (NM-B cable), so you have a strongly held expectation that you’ll be doing that next.
You can’t.  It’s illegal.  At the time you’re selling your house, the inspector will flag it, and you’ll have to pull a permit to tear it out, tear it out, pull another permit to put it back in, then put it back in right.
You’ll need to run up to the lamp location with conduit, using proper conduit laying methods.  At that point you can get some THHN wire, a white wire for neutral and red for switched-hot, from the switch to the lamp inside the conduit.
The wires.
Neutral is the white one, and probably does not go to the switch.  A voltage tester will show one is always-hot; that goes to the switch.  The other one will be hot when the switch is on; that one goes to the switch and lamp.


Treat soft wood floor I recently bought a house and the bedroom has a wooden floor. I have attached a picture of the floor, after it has been sanded. I have sanded the floor level and finished it with a P120 grain.

I am wondering with what kind of varnish I should treat it. The floor is certainly not oak. It's rather soft wood. All the information I can find is about oak or parquet hardwood floors. But that kind of wood is much harder so my guess is I would need something very tough.

Color-wise I think I would like it to be a bit darker than it is now. But whatever product is recommended for this kind of floor will probably come in colors?

Any input is appreciated.

That appears to be a subfloor (softwood, plain edges, face-nailed.) It's a good place to put a finish floor (hardwood, parquet, etc) and not a very good finish floor itself, no matter what you coat it with.

Softwood finish-floors are not unheard of, but that isn't one, IMHO.


How does one fix an unlevel, poorly-supported floor when you can't access it from underneath? I recently bought a new home.  Also on the property is an accessory building which I am using as an office.  The building is finished on the inside and has a cheap parquet floor.  I'm not sure what's underneath, but the building is on blocks, not a slab.  I infer from this that the construction is just beams on the blocks with joists running across them, covered by 3/4" plywood subflooring and the parquet on top.

The floor is pretty unlevel in places.  It seems to have a crown in the middle-ish of the room.  It also feels really soft in places.

If this were a full-sized pier & beam construction, it would have a crawlspace, and addressing these problems would be pretty straightforward.  However, this building has no crawlspace at all.  I'd be lucky to even be able to see anything under the outside edge.

How do I try to address these issues when I can't get underneath?

edit: pulling up the floor, or at least parts of it, is an option.  But if I do that, then how do I work on the floor from above?

Before I suggest how to investigate your problem, my guess is that one (or more) of the concrete blocks with a post/pier that is supporting a joist or beam has settled. The solution to this can range from removing the flooring in a small section and resetting the block, to realizing that all of the blocks are out of whack and maybe the ground the building is set on was not properly prepared for supporting a building.  You can find a couple of great guides to building large 'accessory buildings' (sheds, studios, etc) on Fine Homebuilding, Family Handyman, etc, but the process generally starts with making sure the ground underneath has proper structure and adequate drainage (e.g. gravel/baserock tamped down, filter fabric, etc).  Depending on the age of the building this might also be normal (I wouldn't expect a building sitting on small concrete blocks (instead of a solid concrete foundation) to last 20-30 years and have a flat floor).

For tackling your specific question, the general idea would be to try to remove a small section of the parquet floor and subfloor where there is a problem (soft spots or out of level floor) without cutting through the joists or beams, in order to better assess the situation.  Once you have that section removed, you should be able to see the exact construction and state of the supporting members (joists/beams/concrete blocks) which should help to identify the cause of the problem.

To identify where the beams/joists are so that you don't cut into them, you could use a mirror and flashlight on the outside of the building, and take approximate measurements.

Another approach would be to just cut right into the soft / out of level area, as you will likely need to repair replace that anyway.

If you removed the parquet floor first, it should be really easy to see where the joists are by looking at the nailing pattern in the subfloor.  Subfloors are nailed to the joists (typically a builder will put the subfloor down on top of the joist, snap a chalk line on the subfloor that is at the center of joists, and then nail along that chalk line).  So you could cut a section of the subfloor out in between the joists and check out the problem.

Since you asked how you would work on a floor from above, all of these suggestions about cutting into the floor would need to be done from above the floor, i.e. using a circular saw, hole saw and reciprocating saw, oscillating saw, etc.  Once the floor is off and you see what the problem is, you would fix it and build the floor back up.  For example, maybe you would decide to just add shims under the joists, or maybe you would put in a new concrete block and post and a new joist or blocking, and then install new subfloor, then finish flooring.  I hope that helps, please let me know if anything is unclear.


Are black spots on the underside of roof sheathing mold? There is black spots identified in our attic which we are trying to gauge if this is mold.

Yes it is mold , don’t panic all wood has mold spores.
Most of the spores are not hazardous the only way to know is by testing.
If you want to kill the mold bleach water OR hydrogen peroxide and water 3% both will kill surface mold. I prefer hydrogen peroxide as it doesn’t stink.
Keeping the attic well vented really helps to stop mold growth but a few spots like you have is quite normal,
Why don’t you see mold in the lumber yard? After wood is finished it is sprayed with a fungicide that stops mold growth for a couple of months, kiln dried has the moisture removed so it doesn’t get the treatment.
I tried to cover common issues as some folks are panicked by the word mold when most of the time it is harmless and has been there for years, if new may indicate a roof leak or moisture source in the attic space.


Smart Thermostat and 24 volt transformer direct to thermostat I have a hot water boiler and separate AC system and bought a wifi smart honeywell thermostat to get a C wire- installed a 24 volt transformer that has two wires if one goes to the C where should the second wire  land?

The two new 24V transformer wires will be R and C, but wait.  We don't know which one is which.

It's a 50% chance, so guess. Hook up New R Only -- do not hook up New C.   Now, measure voltage from New C (which you haven't hooked up yet) to W, Y and G.  You should see near 0V, or 24V if the system is cycled on.  If you see any voltages over 24V, particularly if you see 48V, then you guessed wrong. Reverse New C and New R.

Once you have them identified, use colored tape to mark R as Red and C as Blue.


Wax to finish and smooth out dining tabletop with deep gouges I have an old wood dining table which I would like to sand down and refinish. Unfortunately it has many deep gouges in it. I am hoping that there is some sort of wax finish that I can use that can also fill in these gouges. I am imagining that I can heat the wax to liquify it and let it fill in the gaps and harden... Does such a wax exist?

Ideally I would like to go with a natural entirely non-toxic product...

Thank you!

Such a wax exists... but before we use it how deep xare these gouges? If you took a fork and dragged it deeply across a finished tabletop you could/would fill the damage with colored beeswax. Deeper gouges would necessitate different fillers, colored shellac sticks heated and melted into the holes works well. Typically, however, if you're sanding off the entire finish, you'd do that carefully and then look again at your problems. Sand only in dire straits..

Is the rest if the finish okay? Sanding destroys a good piece.. Proceed with great caution... do as little as possible. If it's just an ordinary thing - be careful here too - strip it gently, clean per instruction, seal with sanding sealer.. Adjust color, and THEN match a color. If its a good piece, there's a lot to know so you don't ruin it.


How should I set up a camera for monitor my baby? I have a closet which is big , with window and in the master bedroom. So I want to set up as baby room. There are two ceiling lights only. There is no power outlet.

If I want to set up a wifi camera, I need to get the power from the ceiling lights. The light bulbs are mounted horizontal so I cannot buy a light bulb wifi cam.

Any suggestion?

For a cheap and dirty solution, you can get a light bulb socket that contains a power outlet, e.g., here. If the camera uses a USB for power, you could try this DIY solution.

If you want it neat and tidy, then put in a new power outlet on the wall, either routing the power cable through the wall (requires identifying a suitable place from which to pull the cable: may be relatively easy if you have a basement or attic from which you can access the closet walls above/below), or over the wall in a conduit.


What are my options for saving this building? I have a small building on my property that is about 15ft by 10ft.  The building sits on a slope that runs downhill sort of at an angle from one front corner to the opposite back corner.

It sits on an odd foundation (at least odd in my experience).  The front edge is sitting on a solid-looking concrete footer that is in the ground flush, while the back seems more or less unsupported. The sides of the building rest on some kind of concrete walls.  I say "some kind" because it's sort of a chunky looking aggregate, with lots of little round-ish stones in it.  Perhaps a home-made mix of some kind?  The building has been there since pre-1948.  Basically, it's not the smooth, homogenous concrete you'd expect to see poured today.

I say the back seems unsupported because the back wall to the ground is wooden, and doesn't seem solid enough to me to be bearing any real weight.  But it could be. All I can say is that I couldn't knock it out with my bare hands.

This image is of the back corner where the separation of the side concrete and back wooden walls is clearly evident.  This gap measures about 3.5" at its widest (top), and has probably increased about 2" in the last 2-3 years.

This image is of the other back corner, on the downslope side (meaning the building is leaning downhill toward this corner).  Here, there is less separation on this side, but the angle of the side wall is still easy to see.

Both side walls show a pronounced bow front-to-back, and both are severely cracked top-to-bottom.  I think is essentially creating extra movement, as the walls are now no longer one solid piece, but really four that can now move separately.

I think the building is getting to the point where it's leaning so badly that it must either be re-seated or torn down.  I would like some advice on how you would go about trying to save the building.  Or if it's an obvious lost cause.

Ultimately, I decided to save it.  I used stacks of cribbing with large beams to jack the building up off of the failing foundation walls.  Similar to this (much larger) example:

Once I had it up on the crib stacks, I was able to remove the jacking beams, pour concrete footers/piers, and set 6x6 posts.  The building now rests on those posts and sits firmly.  Once closed up, it became a nice storage space.


Why do shared apartment homes have two sets of individual circuit breakers? My home has two sets of circuit breakers, one in my apartment, and one in a shared area downstairs (these are switches that pop up with another one or two nearby buttons that also pop open when there is an electrical overload due to too many appliances turned on). Wikipedia states: "circuit breaker: an automatic device for stopping the flow of current in an electric circuit as a safety measure."

So, my question is, why have a circuit breaker upstairs and one downstairs instead of just one?

Thanks.

So, since I'm interested in the wiring inside as home, and voltage inside homes here is fixed (in my case 220-240 V), current equals load. The case would be different if I was considering a circuit where the voltage within the circuit would change with time. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Circuit breaker downstairs

Circuit breakers protect the wiring in the home from starting fires due to overheating, because when a fire starts in the walls, you can't put it out because you can't reach it, and the house is done for.  Overheating is caused by overload.   The purpose is not to punish people who enjoy electrical appliances.

It is not the number of appliances, but the sum of their current draws per circuit. You can't run 2 kettles, but you can charge 100 iPhones.

(If you want to wire a kitchen so you can use 2 kettles, coffeemaker, hot plate, grill, sous vide, toaster and microwave all at once, that's no problem, just wire a separate circuit to every socket.  That's why they make 12/2/2 cable.)

Why are there separate breaker panels?

To avoid Tenant A having to ask Tenant B to reset their circuit breaker, because that begets ugly hacks like extension cords under rugs, which begets house fires.   The Electrical code is written by the National Fire Prevention Association.
So that Tenant A cannot shut off Tenant B's power, either by accident or as a prank.
In many jurisdictions, it's a legal requirement that loads in commons space must be separately metered, i.e. One tenant can't get socked with the bill.  A lot of legacy installations are grandfathered, but then, they have to fix it when they remodel.


How do I switch the furnace to heat mode? I have an older good Sears furnace.  It was on cool mode this summer and the fan could come on.  I can't find how to switch it back to heat mode!

Thanks.
Linda

Depends on the specific setup of your system.

Some systems have a switch (typically labelled "Winter/Summer" IME) others just note if the thermostat is calling for heating or cooling.

Some thermostats have a "Cool-Off-Heat" mode switch on the thermostat itself.


Receptacle Replacement in Older Home I replaced a receptacle in a bedroom of my home which was built in the mid to late 1970s.  The circut breaker says the outlet is 15 Amp, however the wires wouldn't fit inside the slots on the back of the new receptacle which is a standard 15 Amp, 125 volt I got from Lowes.  I proceeded to wrap the wires around the screws since they wouldn't fit in the slots and I made sure enough insulation was removed so the wire was in full contact with the screws.  When I turned the breaker back on, there was no power.  I'm at a loss,  I have watched several videos on replacing a receptacle and think I'm doing everything correct, just not sure why it's not working.  This should be a simple DIY project I feel.
Thanks

The "backstab" connections normally only take 14 AWG wire. While a 15A circuit normally uses 14 AWG wire (since it is the smallest/cheapest size that meets code), you sometimes find a 15A circuit wired at least partly with 12 AWG wire (which can also be used for 20A circuits). That would easily explain why the backstabs don't work. But that's OK, because screw terminal connections are more reliable than backstabs.
Three things that are helpful with basic wiring are:

Non-contact tester - this lights up when there is line voltage present. It can have some false positives, but used properly it should not have any false negatives, so it is a very helpful safety tool. Does a non-contact tester light up next to any of the wires in this box?
3-light tester. Or as Harper calls it, "Magic 8-ball". This is a plug-in tester that lights up for Hot, Neutral and Ground. It is not 100% reliable, but can help in diagnosing receptacle problems if you know how to use it. Does a 3-light tester show anything?
Multimeter. This can test all sorts of things. In this case, you are looking for ~ 120V between hot & neutral and between hot & ground and 0V between neutral & ground.

The next thing to check is GFCI/AFCI. If your breaker is not just a standard "flip the switch" breaker, i.e., if it has TEST/RESET buttons, then you may need to reset the GFCI/AFCI functions after turning the breaker back on. Unlikely for a bedroom, but it is also possible another receptacle on the same circuit has a built-in GFCI that needs to be reset for this receptacle to work.
And last, but certainly not least, it is possible that another receptacle in this circuit has a loose connection. That gets time-consuming to diagnose, but basically comes down to checking each one and, even if it is working, seeing if there are any loose wires (especially backstabs) that affect power farther along the circuit.


Coaxial passive amplification I have a passive UHF antenna, with a 1:2 splitter close to it, short run for tv1 is about 5 meters, long run for tv2 is about 15. I have 4 digital channels on my grid, and tv2 does not receive enough signal on one of them. Question is can it be improved with an inline amp(passive)?

Will an inline amp improve your signal? Yes a amplifier will boost the signal that is available. With that said there has to be enough signal to amplify. In the past I have found many DIY connections that were not made with the correct type of coax or connectors. Each connection has some power loss measured in DB mis matching the impedance of an antenna to the type of coax can reduce the signal to a level that can not be recovered. A matching network may be needed from the antenna to the coax to reduce the losses. The amplifier should be prior to the splitter and the splitter should be the type for the frequency range (UHF) you are targeting. The last item to watch is splices each splice has some power loss. 3db of loss cuts the power in 1/2. Remember that a splitter will reduce the signal. More expensive splitters usually have a lower loss (check the splitter it may be a 60/40 or 70/30 not 50/50 as you would expect these are very inexpensive to build and you may be able to flip the splitter and both tv's might work). There are amplifiers that have multiple outlets and will run on a 9V battery for over a year but these devices are harder to find now since the demand has decreased over the last 10 years. One last note getting the highest gain amp is not always the best deal a 15db amp with a low noise may do better than a 30+ db amp with a higher noise level.


Does a 100 year old home need attic ventilation added if no problems have occurred? We purchased a 1920 brick home 2 years ago and are pricing a new roof and the roofing contractors want to put in ridge vents and soffit ventilation systems.
We currently have two large awning style windows on each end of the stand up attic and an attic fan.  The roof does have large peaks and slopes and when looking a the tongue and groove from the inside it appears perfect with no signs of mold or wood rot.

Do we really need the a ridge vent and soffit ventilation system in a 100 year old home with no roof related issues except its time to replace the shingles?
After reading quite a few articles we feel as though we should be leaving these windows cracked open or fairly wide open all year round.
Is that an accurate assessment?

Your recommendations and insights would be greatly appreciated.

This is a subjective question which depends on your prerogative for several things. How long will you stay in the home (or what's your predilection for saving the planet)? Better venting may keep the attic cooler, which may in turn reduce air conditioning costs (financial and ecological). The payoff (in time and pollution savings) isn't clear without a detailed analysis of current conditions and potential improvement.

If you don't have moisture problems now, and you haven't found cooling costs to be unreasonable, I would not make changes at this stage in the home's impressive life. If you feel like the HVAC system struggles in the heat of summer, it may be a wise move.

FYI, attic vents should remain open year-round. Even in winter there's moisture to be released, especially without a modern sealed building envelope. Much more vapor than you realize may be migrating out of the living space. Also, you want most of the heat to be released anyway to prevent ice damming. You might close them somewhat to retain a bit of heat, but only if it's convenient. If it means pushing into an attic and getting insulation all over, don't bother. Leave them open.


Very interesting issue - Hot water not coming out Two days ago, my plumber had capped existing hot and cold waters lines in one of the shower and tub area as part of the remodel process.  Since then I did not get hot water anywhere in the house. I rushed to change the water heater today and still no luck. Now I get some warm water in some bath and cold water. The funny part is that even after I shut down the cold water under sink, I get only cold water from hot water line. The water heater is working normally it seems.
Looks like one of these things is happening here

Sediment build up – after installing the new heater today, I got muddy/gray water with lots of air in one of the bath
Bad design, like hot and cold water mixing – I could be wrong as I never had this issue for the past 15 years living in the house
Leak – We had bad weather in Dallas few weeks ago… so it might have cause but the issue is showing up after 3 weeks.
My plumber did something silly two days ago. With my basic knowledge of plumbing, all he did was capping the lines to Tub, and installing a new valve for shower.  Could he have cause some blockage?

I highly appreciate if you can shed some light.

The cold water could have a higher pressure, and if a backflow preventer is defect, the cold water will enter the hot water tubes. Thermostatic faucets are prone for that failure. See also
Hot water turning cold in pipe at branch line


How much can I do on my own (adding breakers and rewiring? I live in an house built around 1960.  LAHJ is NH/USA.  It is a small house, on a single level with a full but unfinished basement.
We have known for years that we need to update the electrical.  Our panel has fuses, and most of the outlets in the house are not grounded (2-prong).
Am I right that it would make sense to replace all the wiring in the house at the same time we have breakers installed?  If we have only one floor, is it possible for the wiring to be replaced without tearing down the walls?
Lastly, I have some limited experience in electrical.  I can wire outlets, replace light fixtures, etc.  I am obviously not considering replacing the fuse box with breakers myself.  But I am wondering if I can save the electrician time (and me money) by offering to do some of the work myself.  Can I ask to have the wires run to the boxes but wire them in myself, for example?

Looking online a home owner can do there own electrical start to finish.
If you want to work with an electrician and find one willing to let you pull wire and connect devices ahead of time the electrician will want to inspect it and if you wire the receptacles he will also want to look as well as an inspector will to verify there is 1/4” of the cable covering on nmb extending inside the box and 6” of wire and of corse properly wired at the receptacles, switches snd lights.
When you pull to the panel location since it is new bring your wires in and make sure there is enough to reach any point in the panel. For example when I wire panels if I enter on the left I land the ground neutral and hot on the right yes this consumes wire but when balancing panels once powered up I never have to splice and later remodels I always have enough wire. Other electricians won’t waste a 1/4” of wire so knowing what he wants is important.
You will probably want a service upgrade also most homes on fuses only have 60 amp sometimes 100 amp services I would suggest while you are at it go big and not only increase the service size but get as many breaker positions as you can.
The minimum panel size for a single family residential job is currently 100 amps.
The advantage of working with an electrician is he will know what is allowed and can advise of you in some cases saving quite a chunk of $. Also in my jurisdiction we have one inspector that must hate home owners and makes them do more than required by code. Make sure to mention it was wired by an electrician(s) and the inspection may go much faster.
When I moved to my current home it was in a jurisdiction I had not worked in often and my first job was similar to yours updating a 1930’s farm house with a new service.
The inspector was not going to sine off the job with multiple “violations” I asked him to cite the code references while getting a code book. After giving him my license number he started backpedaling big time saying that’s how he liked it and approved the permit with a green tag on the service.


Can I share a dryer vent with a portable A/C unit? I want to add a portable A/C unit in our sun room which also houses our washer/dryer. Rather than vent the A/C thru a window I'd like to know if I could utilize the dryer venting by using a Y connector to combine the 2. If so, should I use a damper in one or both of the lines before the Y connector?

It's generally a bad idea to combine exhaust vents. You'll end up with backflow one way or the other, or you'll inadvertently block a working vent when you forget to flip a diverter or set dampers correctly. It could result in a dangerous situation with the dryer.


noise reduction from a wooden ball wall My husband and sons built a wooden wall in our backyard to use as a ball wall for soccer and lacrosse.  Our boys bounce the ball off the wall to practice.  It is about 10X10 frame with plywood affixed on it.  It stands about 2 feet from our home which has siding on it.  When they practice the sound reverberates throughout our neighborhood.  I would like to stay on the good side of our neighbors.  How can we cut the noise of the ball hitting the wood down?

You could put a few layers of cement board on the back side of the plywood.

I would use two layers of 1/2 inch cement backer board and use outdoor grade construction adhesive in conjunction with screws.

Start with one layer and see how it sounds.


Can a C wire be added to an old Teledyne Laars JVT-100C boiler? Good morning.   I have an old Teledyne Laars JVT-100C Boiler, that only has R,W,A terminals.  is there a way to add a C wire to this boiler in order to power my thermostats?

Thanks in advance...

Yes you can, on your boiler there is a transformer above the gas valve. One terminal is the 24 v supply and the other is the common. It's not always easy to identify which is which. The process involves connecting one side of the secondary to the L2 (neutral) and checking if voltage is additive or subtractive. Hopefully it's identified. It's much easier that way.


I changed my thermostat, not my heat does not work... help! I know I made a mistake, but here's the storey.

When I was hooking up the new thermostat I did it with live wires, and I used metal pliers (metal touching metal).  The wires may have also touched each other during the process.  The thermostat didn't work (no power when connected to C), so I switched back to the old one and it still doesn't work.

Where do I start?

Thank you!

Change 3amp fuse on control board in furnace


How can I repair decking and a joist damaged by a small fire? Whoops.

My deck caught fire and now I need to replace the burnt parts. From what I can tell, I need to pry up the deck boards to access the burnt joist. Then replace the decking that was damaged on top.

Is there a better way? From what I can tell the decking is nailed down every 16-18 inches and pulling the nails out far enough back to access the joist seems like it's going to be quite a chore.

No problem if that's the best solution, just want to be sure before I invest time and money. Also, want to prevent further damage where I can.

Left the barbecue on too long?

Of course the middle deck boards need to go, but you have the option of splicing the joist.

What you need is a 6 foot piece of the same material, screws and some good construction glue - the kind that comes in a caulking tube, not a squeeze bottle. PL-400 is good stuff.

Cut the new board into 2 x 3 foot lengths, apply glue generously, and sandwich the damaged section between them. Screw in from each side. No need for many or massive screws - that's what the glue is for.

Optional: chisel out the burnt section - makes the smell of freshly burnt deck go away faster. Paint the newly-exposed wood so it doesn't absorb water.

It may be possible to do all of this from underneath the deck, so you won't need to remove more than the damaged boards.


Portable Air Conditioning Venting I don't have a window and was wondering if I can vent a portable air conditioner down the heating vent for the room?

No, this is a bad idea. The exhaust from the air conditioner is high humidity. You'll be creating the perfect environment for mold growth in the air handler at the other end of he heating duct.


Different joist spacing of extended deck I have an old deck with 16" joist spacing but that was because they used 2x8 joists and span 9 ft with 3 ft overhang.

I am planning to extend the deck but won't go further than 9 ft. So with short joist span, I am thinking using Hem-fir 2x8 with 24" spacing according to this

http://www.decks.com/how-to/41/deck-joist-sizing-and-spacing

Do you think it's reasonable? Or do I have to follow the same pattern of joist spacing when I extend the deck? The beam is 4x8x16.

As requested, composite really needs the tighter spacing. It will sag and feel really spongy at 24".


What to put in 60A GFCI breakers in Subpanel? Update: I was asking "What to put in 60A GFCI breakers in Subpanel?"
Answer: maybe The main panel! That is, the main panel would be the subpanel of the 60A GFCI breaker. It's like the main panel and subpanel got swapped!

Detail. I was asking what to put in 60A GFCI breaker in subpanel in case I'd need to swap the 30A to the bath heaters and 60A to other loads. Here is an idea (Harper and others familiar with my setup).

My purely 240v main panel has this remaining loads (all are 30A breakers and all using AWG 10 even to the lights):

What if I'd separate the main breaker and body in the main panel. Then the main breaker would connected to the subpanel. And the main body in main panel would become the subpanel of the 60A output of the original subpanel. Here:

So it's like the subpanel and main panel become swapped. And the original main panel would now be the output of 60A of this original subpanel:

I'd use 60A GFCI breaker number 5. This can totally eliminate all the wire nuts in the original panel above which is due to 3 circuits joined into one breaker. I'd put them in original breaker.

In essence. What to put in 60A GFCI breakers in Subpanel? The main panel (minus the main breaker which will be connected to the subpanel, but rest of main panel will be output of the 60A GFCI breaker).

This way, the entire house will be protected by GFCI. Not only that. Even the entire main panel chassis will be protected too (and it can be covered without fear of electrified chassis since it can trip the 5mA GFCI).

But big question. Can the 60A GFCI breaker have the following loads (the remaining original panel loads and the ones in GFCI breaker 5 to be transferred and added to the loads)?

Aircon 2.4hp room 2 (9A)    (number 1 to 5 is from remaining loads)
Aircon 2.5hp sala (10A)
Aircon 1.5hp room 3 (5A)
Aircon 1hp room 1 (3A)
Lights ground floor (1A), 2nd floor (0.5A), attic (0.5A)
Room 2 outlets (3A) (from original subpanel no. 5 GFCI breaker)
Kitchen outlets (0.5A) (from original subpanel no. 5 GFCI breaker)
Attic outlets (2A) (from original subpanel no. 5 GFCI breaker)

total load is 35A that will use the 60A GFCI breaker output. Again each wiring is AWG 10 and each non GFCI breaker in original panel is 30A.

Will this work? This way the aircons are each in their original 30A breaker.

Brilliant idea or technically flawed? Lol.

original message yesterday:

Last year I bought 6 GFCI breakers. 2 pcs are 60A, 4 pcs are 30A. I initially bought the 60A at amazon because it is the cheapest. I wasn't thinking then about the wire and breaker matching then as I didn't know about it yet.

These are my exact loads presently running. I turned off all the breakers because I just put the 100A main breaker.

Bigger view.

I'm presently using each 60A breaker for 6000W bath heater (I have 2 heaters, each connected separately to 60A breaker as shown in the actual breaker pics). I know 6000W/240v= 25A. Wire used for all are AWG 10. My question. Someone told me I must use 30A for the 25A heater. But even if you have a single TV say 1A, you still use 10A breaker in the house for that single load. So how come I can't use the 25A bath heater in the 60A ampere when it's the only load? I mean, the wiring to the 60A won't overload because the only load is the 25A bath heater and nothing else put on that 60A breaker. At least it should trip if there is a short in the heater. But the AWG 10 which has capacity of 30A to 35A won't melt at all because the only load is 25A heater. So why can't you use it on the 60A breaker? NEC may not allow it. But what is the logical and technical reasoning for it?

Also in case I'll swap the 30A for the heater. What would I put in the 60A GFCI breakers then, the TV or fridges? All the other 4 loads are just low enough that even when I combined many appliances in one breaker. It won't exceed 10A in the rest of the 4 30A GFCI breakers in above label pic.

Thank you.

The problem is the breaker needs to protect both the loads and the wires. There are (at least) 3 different ways your 25A heater could fail, requiring a breaker trip:

Short Circuit - That is easy. A short pulling hundreds of Amps (or whatever the service will supply) will trip a 60A breaker almost as fast as it would trip a 30A breaker. Good
Ground Fault - A ground fault will trip a GFCI breaker at very low current, no matter what the rating of the breaker is (30A vs. 60A). Good
Moderate overload - This is the real problem. If you have some sort of fault in the heater - perhaps a component starting to fail but not totally failing (because if it totally failed it would either fail open - safe - or fail closed - short circuit). BAD In this situation, you could have 40A or 50A flowing through and it would not trip the 60A breaker. But it would melt your wires and start a fire.


Is it normal to have flooding in basement after radon mitigation system installed? I have been experiencing flooding in my basement. I think the water is coming from the pipe installed in slab for radon mitigation. I don't believe the basement was flooding before (I just closed on house in July, the seller did not disclose water issues and they stored a ton of boxes on basement floor and didn't appear to have water damage). Is this normal? I have also attached a picture of the pipe in the slab and there is a pretty large gap- is this standard or shoddy workmanship? Will simply sealing this properly fix the issue?

The radon pipe should be tightly sealed through the basement floor. If that gap you identified goes though the floor, then it should be sealed up because the system is supposed to vent radon from the soil. That opening would prevent that from happening and if you had a lot of rain, you could get water rising up through that gap.

Wait until the basement dries out and then play detective to see if you can determine where the water comes from. If it comes from some other cracks in the walls or floor, they should be sealed up to increase the effectiveness of your radon system and to stop the water seepage.


Water filter effectiveness for lead removal In light of the recent lead contamination in Flint, MI (USA) - I've been wondering which, if any, media are effective for removing lead from household tap water.

I currently have a custom filter system I build myself with 3 standard 10" filter housings containing (in order)

Activated Alumina
KDF 55 / GAC
0.5 micron Carbon Block

My intention at the time was to use alumina for fluoride, KDF/GAC for chlorine & chloromine, and the carbon block as a final stage for taste and any particulate that came through from the first two filters.  I know these technologies can filter more than the above but my question is, are any of these capable of removing lead and either way, is there another media that would be good to consider adding in to the system for this purpose?

Lead isn't soluble in water (although some lead containing compounds are), so most filtration smaller than ~1 micron is typically quite effective at removing lead. Just look for a filter with a NSF/ANSI Standard 53 rating - it needs a 99% lead reduction to certify (link leads to a specific filter, but does list the qualifying criteria).

Other contaminants can actually be much more difficult to remove - I'd assume if any lead even made it to the carbon block, that vast majority of it would stop there.


Why am I showing 50 volts between neutral and ground? I wired 8 recessed lights to a switch in a room. When I connected everything the first time and turned on the power, the breaker tripped. If I disconnect the ground that leads to the breaker box on this line, it doesn't trip the breaker, the lights turn on, but I get odd readings.

Using a digital multimeter and touching the black lead to the exterior of the recessed lights and the red lead to my finger, the multimeter reads 18 volts, so basically the ground is carrying voltage to the can lights. If I test the ground and the neutral mid-line (at a junction box between two of the lights), I am getting 50 volts. Neutral to hot reads 120 volts, and hot to ground reads 66 volts at the same junction box. Any thoughts?

I just had a similar problem. Is the voltage in your outlets fluctuating? Mine was and the problem was out at the pole. A tree branch pushed the neutral wire at the pole against the ground wire. I kept getting around the same voltage in my ground wire.


How do I know when my water heater should be replaced? The condo I just moved into has an original 2001 gas water heater that is missing a few features one would like to see in 2015, such as inspectable anodes. The home inspector pointed this out as a potential problem but only due to the heater's age; not due to any kind of malfunction.

Is this the kind of job where one should wait until the heater starts to malfunction? Is there a recommended replacement schedule one should use? Are newer models efficient enough that it makes sense to replace it anyway?

Your other question implies that it's gas. Yes, there are more efficent gas units (as well as more efficient electric heat-pump units) available now. (Electric resistance units are really about the same since they started using a reasonable amount of insulation on them.)

Waiting for the one you have to fail may mean water damage and replacing it in a hurry, which can negatively impact your ability to shop around and get exactly what you want. You are certainly past the usual "lifetime" of a water heater already, though that can vary with water quality/chemistry.

In some areas significant rebates are available on heat pump water heaters, which are otherwise expensive, but which can (compare YOUR local rates for each) actually be cheaper than gas to run, especially if the "moderate A/C effect" is beneficial in your climate.


Installing a duct fan For a room in the basement we connected a ceiling register to an existing duct.  It is not very strong, but I found this product that might make it a little more powerful:

Does anybody know how something like this powered?  Is it possible to connect it to the thermostat so that it only turns on when the heat/ac is on?

The manufacturer's website lists several possibilities; from their FAQ for that range of fans:

Where do I get power from for the In-Line Duct Fan?
Here you have a number of options.
The easiest way to power your In-Line Duct Fan for automatic ON/OFF operation with both your furnace and air conditioner is to use the Suncourt DuctStat. Please view the DuctStat section of these FAQ's.
You may power the In-Line Duct Fan via a standard wall switch for manual ON/OFF operation. Running an In-Line Duct Fan continuously will not appreciably affect the life of the fan.
The next best is to connect to the wiring of your furnace. You must connect to the wire that provides power to your furnace blower. Consult the furnace wiring diagram, usually located on the inside of the panel covering the main furnace blower. Again make sure that all wiring conforms to all applicable standards and codes.
Also check that your furnace blower motor has a 110-120 Volt AC motor. Some larger furnaces have 220-240 Volt AC motors. Some of the newest high-end furnaces have DC motors. Do not connect the In-Line Duct Fan to either the 220-240 Volt AC or the DC type.


Large obstruction in toilet drain I am currently working on putting in a basement bathroom.   Have a 4 inch drain pipe roughed in, which at it's location is the toilet.   Put a camera down to see the condition of the pipe and about 12 feet from the opening is a piece of cinder block.  The piece itself is fairly small, about the size of a 2 liter bottle cap.  I tried using a vacuum to get the piece out, to no avail.   Any suggestions short of tearing the slab up to get it out?

Can I just leave it?

Drain rods with a "drop scraper" attachment might work. Although may take a few tries. If possible try accessing it from someplace closer.

The way this works is that you push it beyond the obstruction and then pull back out. When pulled back the tool opens and scrapes over the floor of the pipe, brings back any debris with it.


What could cause condensation on a ceiling after painting with a roof sealer? I am renting an apartment and the tenants recently complained about water droplets on the ceiling in one of the rooms. The apartment is on the first floor and surrounded by plants (we live in a tropical climate), and there is no history of water infiltration before. There are two other floors in the building, and neither apartment presents any water problems. The new tenants painted the whole apartment with Lanco Urethanizer, and since then the problem has appeared. We are currently in the middle of the rain season and hurricane season, but other than that, I have no idea what could cause this. The apartment is built with concrete blocks.

According to the Technical Data Sheet for Lanco Urethanizer (direct link to PDF), or at least from the way I'm reading it, "Lanco Urethanizer" is meant for external applications where you need to make a surface waterproof.

Therefore if those tenants have used it internally to paint walls & ceilings, they have sealed those services ie Made them waterproof.

If I have the above correct, I believe that would explain why you're seeing condensation on the ceiling (and probably on the walls, especially higher up the walls) ie Moisture in the room can't penetrate the waterproof surfaces, instead it just sits on the surface as condensation.


Why does my furnace turn off after a few minutes, then re-ignite? I have a Goodman 80% furnace in my barn dated 1999 it runs for about 5-10 minutes then flame kicks off for about 2 minutes and re-lights. It does not go into lockout mode (keeps cycling this way). When t-stat reaches called for temp furnace will shut down til called for again.

I have replaced the limit switch already. Flame sensor would not be the problem because it heats for 5-10 minutes at a time, however I did clean it with scotchbrite pad to rule out that possibility. I am using the bottom of furnace for cold air and no filter. Furnace is hanging 42"above floor.

The control board may have an led that flashes a problem indicator.  My Goodman 92% lit up and shutdown. The led flashed "not normal". Replacing board fixed the problem.  I used an after market equivalent that I was able to find by cross-referencing p/n.


Terrible flushing - Duravit Starck 2 Happy D My two Duravit Starck 2/Happy D toilets have turned me into a full-time toilet scrubber. Any suggestions before I replace them?

The problems:

Fecalpheliac bowls. "Matter" seems to stick tenaciously on the bowl.
I must scrub the bowl after each and every usage.
Poor flushing. I must flush two and sometimes three times to clear
the bowl. So much for "lo flush" water conservation.
Long refill times. One toilet takes 90 seconds.

What I've done:

Cleaned the fill lines and filters.
Adjusted and re-adjusted the fill levels in the tank.
Had a plumber examine the bowls. He said "It's a shame - they're so expensive."
Asked my Duravit supplier. Their answer: "Most Europeans use a scrub
brush."
Written scathing "Happy D" reviews - "SAVE YOURSELVES! It's too late
for me!"

In short: Pretty to look at. Awful to use.

I do not know anything about your toilet, but I have 2 types in my house. I have 2 Kohler Cimarron 2 model K4421 which are great and a new American Standard  Champion 4 max just recently installed. The American Standard is supposed to be able to flush a bucket of golf balls. Don't tell my p..p that. It doesn't always go down completely. I would choose the Kohler. Also we use " never scrub " cartridges to help keep the bowl clean.


Is this Romex ruined? Cut a hole on in-wall romex Long story short: I accidentally cut this Romex that is located in a wall and carries the load for two receptacles.

Is this Romex ruined? Is it now a fire hazard? Do I have to call an electrician in to rewire the entire line (nooooooo)?

Thank you for any help you can give me!

IMAGE:

I think you will be fine as it does not look like you damaged the actual conductor inside. Yes, the sheath is damaged; yes, the insulation on that one conductor is nicked, but I don't see any conductor wire exposed.

Look closely to ensure that the conductor is not damaged, than wrap it with good quality electrical tape and stop worrying about it.

If the conductor is damaged, you could use one of these fancy newfangled "in-wall" romex splices, rather than rewiring:


Can a freestanding **gas** range share 15AMP circuit with a range hood/extractor? I have a freestanding gas range in my basement suite that is not currently vented. Obviously this is a problem -- CO more than grease -- and I want to install a range hood to direct-vent outside.

The range is on a dedicated 15 amp circuit, with a 3-prong 120V plug. Can I use the same circuit to run the vent?

I would like to replace the existing 120 V outlet with a junction box and then run wiring up the stud to a new outlet for the vent, and down the stud to a second outlet for the range. This would let me address the additional problem of the range now pushing all the way back because the outlet is too high - there is a void at the bottom of the range made for gas fittings and electric clearance. The junction box will be accessible by pulling out the freestanding range.

I am in Vancouver, Canada, so building codes may differ from your area.

Steven - I am also in Vancouver, and just installed a new kitchen with permits and inspections. Yes, the gas range and hood can be on the same 15A circuit, as mine are. Just be sure that the oven is also gas, and does not have any electric broiler or electric self-clean. If the rating is under 12A you are fine. If you are splicing into an existing 15A circuit, you can install as many junction boxes as you need, so long as they are accessible by pulling out the range, or by removing the range hood's fake pipe, or by opening the door of a cabinet above the range hood. My splice is in the receptacle box that the Ikea hood fan plugs into.

I have always had gas ranges, built-in ovens and cooktops, and have never heard of CO being a problem. It should only be a problem if the flame isn't getting enough oxygen.

In the basement, you probably have a gas furnace, gas HWT and gas dryer. They all suck air. If you add a range hood and a bathroom fan, you could be seriously short of makeup air. I was required to add a 4" fresh air vent in the new basement suite. I put it behind the fridge, so that the cold incoming air would mix with the heat from the back of the fridge, avoiding cold drafts.


How can I achieve a randomized cedar shake shingle placement? Other than the obvious (just eyeballing as you go, shingle by shingle), what is a good way to achieve a random-looking shingle placement on a cedar shake roof? (This particular project happens to be a play house.)

I've considered laying out a course on the ground (eyeballing & tweaking the "random" placement), snapping a chalk line across that lineup, then using that line as a reference when installing them.

Any other suggestions?  I've never installed cedar shake before, so any guidance is appreciated.

Either shingling a wall or a roof, there is no magic formula, just practice and experience. I will give you a couple of hints. (trade secrets so don't say I told you!) Since you are working on a roof, this can be a little tricky but doable.

First, separate your shingles into piles by size. You can usually make 4 or 5 different piles. Open 3 or more bundles at a time so you have lots of shingles in the sorted piles. You will notice that there will be lots of the medium sized ones, smaller ones and less of the largest and very small ones. Until you get the feeling, you can lay out maybe 15 to 20 shingles on the row, take a look to see if that is the random effect you like, adjust a bit, etc. Be sure to work in more of the sizes you have the most of so you won't end up with a bunch of small or medium ones left after all the largest and smallest are gone. Now you can go ahead and nail down that row. Repeat this process, keeping a good supply of sorted shingles to chose from. Be absolutely sure to bridge all the joints of each row with the row above.  I think that after you have done a few rows, you will start getting a better feel for what you are doing and the process will go faster.

If you have someone to work with, having one person laying out shingles and playing a bit with the sizing, and another nailing also makes the job easier.

Be careful up there as well.  Good luck


How to minimize sliding door gap I have a sliding glass door between a heated room, and a non-heated entrance. Here is a side view of said door :

The gap is 2-3 cm wide. How can I minimize that gap ?

One thing you can do is to get some weather stripping and install it so that it just comes up to the glass slider. If the glass slider is one that free hangs without a track or guide at the bottom it will be somewhat problematic to have the weather stripping actually contact the glass as it will likely just push the bottom of the door way from the wall.

Here is one style that you would mount to the inside edge of the door opening behind the slider.

Will it look ugly? Probably - but then almost anything you use to try to seal up that opening will not be pretty. Comment: Using that type of door for an environmental barrier is anything but optimum.