Pilot lights, but main burners don't on furnace with no flame sensor I have a Rheem furnace in my house. It recently stopped working.

It is the type where the pilot is not always on. Anyways, the ignition will kick in, and the pilot lights just fine. However, the spark ignition just keeps going and the main burners never turn on.

Unless I am mistaken, this furnace does not have a flame sensor, so I'm at a loss for what could be the problem. Any help is appreciated!

There is a thermocouple, the thing that is glowing red in the pilot light that tells the furnace the pilot lit.
If that is bad it will continue to try to light the pilot. They are not real expensive but that would be the first thing to replace.


Does decking board orientation really matter? I've been told that decking boards should always be installed "bark side up" so that the boards crown (and shed water) as they age rather than cup  (and collect water).  But then I've also heard that it should be done the other way around.  And I've also heard that it just doesn't matter one way or the other - just put the "nicest" side up.

So, which way is best, or doesn't it matter at all?

I would say crown side up and shed water. The deck that was on my house when I bought it was cup side up and is in horrible shape. That could be from the fact that the people never took care of it but being in a rather wet/snowy climate didn't help. I'm sure pooled water of any kind can't be good, even on treated wood.


How would I connect rigid pvc to a flexible hose for a drain I've got two pvc drain pipes in our basement that I'd like to route to the drain. Right now they're pouring out on the floor which is not great.
The large pipe says it's a 2 inch pvc pipe (though I measured the outer diameter of the pipe and it's more like 2.5 inch) and the other pipe isn't labeled, but it's outer diameter is 1.5 inch.
I know that I should get some kind of a coupler and connect the PVC to hoses to run to the drain, and I've found some couplers and hoses, but I'm not sure what kind of coupler and hose to use for this case because there are a bunch to choose from.
Any suggestions?

I had a similar situation with my condensate drain. Original setup was around the walls to the laundry tub - low slope pipe (not PVC - some sort of lesser plastic) that really didn't work very well (probably worked better 60 years ago when it was originally installed). I replaced it with PVC in a more direct route, ending on top of the floor drain.
Why do you need flexible hose? If the pipes are essentially stable, get/cut (very easy with PVC) pipe and connectors so that you end with an output down into the floor drain. Flexible hose may be a bit easier initially but is more likely to get messed up - moved to the wrong location, pinched, etc.


Frame drywall around brick fireplace Below is my fireplace with the old stones removed. Now it's "bare bone" and up to me to redesign it.

I am planning to put drywall on top and mantel on the bottom with tiles around like this

But then I have several questions due to the current "situations" with the bricks.

You can see that the bricks are not vertically straight:

1. Should I just run a 2x4 or some lumber and nail in the existing studs (red rectangles below) to make it the frame? I rather not make the top of the firewall "thicker" that it should be, meaning it should be flat with the side surfaces.

2. How do I frame the bottom to install tiles? I am thinking either (a) fix the platform and make it nice and square first or (b) remove more concrete and build a new block around it. Rather than framing it on the new wood floor.

3. In the first picture, there is a little gap and you can see through outside the house on both side of the fireplace. Which materials do I use to seal around fireplace?

Thanks in advance.

Just as a mention, in traditional wood burning fireplaces, there is to be a 2" air space between the masonry and any wood or combustibles. Anything you add to this fireplace should be metal, unless there is enough space for a 2X flat, so it will lessen the length of the metal framing. This metal framing should be placed horizontally to frame the front down to within 12" of the top of the firebox. The rest must be masonry, stone or tile. The area around the firebox should be "gauged" so the face of the finished "rough" wall that will receive the tile or stone is flat and in plane with the other surfaces that will receive tile or stone. Running the metal framing horizontal is just a simple way to get a flat wall between the two corners. If you have 1 5/8" of room or more to the blockwork, metal studs will work. If you have places that are only 7/8" behind the face of the wood framing, "hat track" will be the framing to use. If you only have 1/2" in places, RC2 channel will work in those cases.

The rough hearth you have now could be formed to have concrete poured around what you have there, using the original as filler. Make sure you have at least 2" of room from the forms to allow the pea gravel mix concrete to get to all the places it needs to. You could remove all of it and use masonry blocks to build a all new base fore the hearth.

DO NOT use wood framing for the hearth on this type of woodburning fireplace!! Metal fireplaces, yes, there is a metal barrier install in the gap for fire resistance. Over time if a gap forms your type of fireplace, and hot coals get down in the gap, bad things could happen.

In your spaces you have around the masonry mass, if there is anything that needs filling to the masonry a fireproof insulation like rock wool or Roxul(r) will do the trick. The space to the outside you refer to in the write up is not visible to me, but between the insulation, siding and caulk usually seals the outside from the elements. I have gone as far as adding flashing in new construction to isolate the ends of the siding from the stone or brick so the siding does not soak up moisture from that material

10-16-2018 EDIT


How do I wire my wall-mounted HD TV? This image wall-mount setup should give a good idea of the current TV set up on the wall.

I wanted to use a SmartStrip to power my TV and all the other devices (receiver, BluRay player, Wii, cable box) so when my TV goes on standby, the SmartStrip automatically turns off (fully) all the other devices plugged into it. The guy who did the mounting did not know what he was doing (and neither did I), so he used an extension cord to make the TV power cord go down behind the wall, along the basement ceiling and come back up in a hole in the floor behind the entertainment stand! Apparently this is against code and I need to make this right ASAP. But I am still very particular about using the SmartStrip.

What is the best way to do the wiring do I can continue using the SmartStrip, not make any more holes in the wooden paneled wall and leverage the accessibility behind the TV, into the basement and back up? I have heard of solutions like PowerBridge -- is this a viable option? Is there some way to install some sort of power outlet box in the holed space behind the TV and run a code-compliant wiring along the basement ceiling and somehow leverage an electrical outlet in the wall behind the entertainment stand?

NEC 725.55 does not allow you to run class 1 cable in the same raceway as class 2 & class 3 cable, so you'll have to run a new power cable outside of the PVC conduit that holds the audio/video cables.

The best way to accomplish this (if you still want to use your SmartStrip), is to use one of these guys.

You'll install one hookup behind the media cabinet, and install the other behind the TV. Next, you'll have to pull properly rated cable between the two boxes (outside of the conduit). Once all the connections are made, you will be able to plug a short extension into the SmartStrip, then into the outlet behind the media cabinet. Now you can plug the TV power cord into the outlet behind the TV, and still benefit from the SmartStrip or other surge suppression device behind the media cabinet.

Unfortunately, you're going to have to cut a couple holes in the wall for the junction boxes. However, if you use old work boxes you'll only have to cut holes large enough for the boxes to slide into, since they don't need to be attached to structural members.


100 AMP sub panel from 200 AMP main Installing a new sub panel in my detached garage, about 90' from the main panel. Half of the distance of the run will be under the house and the second half underground to the garage. I have read that SER should not be run in underground conduit. Should I use a combination of SER and URD cable?

Run conduit the whole way and use individual XHHW-2 wires

First off, if you're going to run conduit, simply run the entire run in conduit -- it's not all that much more expensive than a cable wiring method parts-wise, and running a fat (say 2") Schedule 80 PVC conduit for the whole run means you can put fatter wires in in the future if called for, as well as making the pull relatively easy for whoever (you or your electrician) does it.

As to what goes in the conduit, once you have a conduit for the whole length of the run, you can run individual wires (presumably XHHW-2 insulated AA-8000 aluminum alloy wires at the sizes you'd be dealing with for 100A) for the hots and neutral, and a relatively thin (8AWG) bare copper ground.  This is no more expensive than either a SER or a URD cable in the grand scheme of things, takes up less space in the conduit, and is far easier to pull through the conduit than a fat, stiff cable will be.


Should I insulate the ceiling of a room in an attic with an insulated roof? My walk-up attic is insulated with spray foam along the roof line. The spray foam delivers an R value of about 20.

The attic is finished, and the rooms inside the attic have a drywall ceiling that is attached to 6-inch joists whose center sits about 6 feet below the peak of the roof, and 8 feet above the attic floor. The rooms have knee walls along the sides.

The ceiling above the finished attic has no insulation, and I was thinking of adding some fiberglass batts on top of the drywall. For about $500 worth of material and a day of work (if that), I could double the R value above the finished part of the attic.

But my question is whether this is worth it, given that the attic ceiling only covers the central part of the house. Heat that would rise up along the outer edges of the house would hit the exterior of the knee walls, where the attic that is insulated only with the spray foam. I can't add more insulation to that space (well, I think I could blow in cellulose behind the knee walls, but that would be a much more complicated operation because I'd have to cut up a bunch of walls).

A secondary question is whether I'd encounter issues if I mixed fiberglass batts with spray foam like this. I'm not sure if it would create condensation or other issues. The attic currently has no vents at all (the spray foam guy insisted they were not necessary with spray foam).

Here's an ASCII-art a diagram showing my house. The upper dotted line is the attic ceiling where I am thinking of adding insulation. The lower bottom line is the attic floor. The vertical lines between the two dotted lines show the interior walls of the finished part of the attic.

     ^
    / \
   /---\
  /|   |\
 / |   | \
------------
|           |
|           |
|           |
|           |
|           |

To answer a question like this one has to examine the path of heat from the interior space to the exterior, which happens mostly by conduction, but also by convection (air movement) where a space isn't well sealed. In your case, I'm guessing that you have a sealed attic, otherwise the insulation in the rafters would be pointless.

If that's the case, and no air moves from the attic to the outside world (or vice versa), insulating your knee walls and ceiling will provide some benefit. Heat transfer to the attic from the occupied space will be slowed, improving efficiency and comfort (the interior wall surface will be warmer, reducing radiant heat loss from skin, or "draftiness".

Exactly what the financial and environmental benefit will be is difficult to estimate without significantly more detail about your climate, heating system, etc. You probably won't see a cost break-even for a number of years, but the creature comfort improvement may be apparent immediately.

Moisture shouldn't be a concern with fiberglass batts. Just don't introduce a second vapor barrier through either poly sheeting or faced batts. Just use unfaced.


Very low pressure at the end of natural gas pipe In our new house, I found a 1/2 inch natural gas copper pipe that runs all the way from the basement to the second floor, into a small room that used to be a kitchen years ago.

The line is around 80 feet and runs OUTSIDE the house, on the wall.

On the second floor kitchen, at the end of the line, all the fittings are in place to hook up a gas range, including a very large, and heavy, old school looking Fischer regulator.

In the basement, the line terminates into a disconnected flare fitting, and it's right next to the more recently installed, black iron 1/2 inch piping system.

We want to use the upstairs kitchen again, so I set about putting a Tee in the basement to connect the long copper pipe to the natural gas piping.

A lot of elbow grease, yellow teflon tape and gas fittings later, the pipe is reconnected, everything is leak-tested and OK, and I hook up the vintage Gurney gas range that was in the second floor kitchen to the system.

To our delight, it lights up, but, the flame is very very low. I disconnected the flex hose to the stove and quickly turned on the gas valve, and indeed the sound of the gas coming out is much more faint than in the first floor kitchen, where everything works as it should.

One last thing, I put the Tee in the basement piping JUST AFTER the 2 psig Maxitrol regulator that regulates the first floor kitchen gas range.

So my questions are as follow:

1 - Should I have connected the Tee in the basement BEFORE the 2 psig regulator, and instead put a regulator at the very end of the long copper line, on the second floor?

2 - Could running a 80+ feet long line AFTER a regulator cause low gas pressure at that end?

3 - What else could cause low gas pressure in the pipe after a 80+ feet run?

I guess it`s a possibility that the copper gas pipe is clogged somewhere along its length? Is that something that happens?
I visually inspected the pipe along its whole length and it does not appear to be kinked anywhere.

Any ideas?

PS I've installed gas piping (propane and natural) in RV's and trailers in the past and never had a leak or a problem as I`m very careful about everything, so please don't advise me to call a gas fitter first thing. I might get there but for now it's very much in my range of skills.

PPS I'm in Canada so copper piping is Code afaik.

Thanks everyone

EDIT: i measured the pipe length and it's actually closer to 80 feet, with 6 90 degrees bends.
Wow, much longer than I thought.

Your 2# regulator is likely dropping the pressure down to about 1/4 psi which is what most appliances need. By putting the tee after the regulator and running a 80ft line isn't going to be sufficient. Longer runs generally need larger piping. Your 1/2in line wont be able to keep up. You probably should have ran the 2psi line (i.e. a tee before the regulator) and installed a 2nd regulator up there.

Here in the United States, most houses are fed 1/4psi after the meter and if there is problems with piping or a need for large appliances, generally pressure can be increased to 2PSI.  Since you have 1/2" gas piping, that might explain why you have 2 PSI of gas. On my house, the line coming in is 1-1/4".


Is there such a thing as a vice on a stand? I have a small shed with a concrete foundation. I need a vice in the shed, but there's no room for a big, heavy workbench to keep it in place. I can't bolt it to the wall of the shed, because it's flimsy wood and will not withstand the force I'll need to apply to stuff.

So, what I want is a vice atop to a solid metal post, about 3 foot high, with big, strong bolts so I can drill into the foundation and secure it. Do I have to make this myself or does it exist to be bought?

There are stands that can be purchased off the shelf. A heavy duty grinder stand would work those are easy to find online an come in different strengths , I used some square tube steel for my large vice , purchased from a metal scrap yard at a big savings compared to purchasing a premade one or new steel cut to length.


6 x 12 header capability I need to support a ridge beam on one end with a Douglas fir 6 x 12 x 12 ft long header. The load will be on a single point in the center and will be about 8000 lbs total. I can't tolerate sag as there is an expensive door/window assembly installed below. I cannot find single point header tables anywhere and don't care to enlist an engineer as most will not work on a single component basis. My experience and gut says it's good but I want to prove the math. Any suggestions?

Yes, a 6 x 12 Douglas Fir-Larch (#2 and better) with a 12’ span will support 8,000 lbs. at mid-span. It’s deflection will be less than 1/3 inch when fully loaded.

If the 6 x 12 is a Select Structural, then it will support 10,300 lbs. and deflect about 1/4”.

BTW, I recommend the window (vinyl, wood, whatever) that you are going to install below this beam should NOT be secured at the head in the middle one-half of the span.


Radon remediation in a part-time home We have a second home that we use approximately 1 week/month year-round, and more in the summer.   When we purchased the home in 2019, it was tested at 9pCi/L, and a remediation system was installed before closing, with subsequent testing at 1.4pCi/L.
I'm wondering if there's a point to running the system full-time, when we are only there part time (and especially now when our normal schedule isn't likely to happen for an extra month or two).  When we are not there, this system is the major energy consumer in the house, at approximately 2.5-3 kWh/day.   I have the ability to programmatically turn the system off and on, and I'm thinking I could either run it part-time (say 6h/day) or not at all, turning it on full-time several days or even a week before our anticipated arrival.   Given that the un-remediated readings were modest, it seems the risk doing this should be low.

Will having the system on, then off possibly create higher levels than previously existed (for example, because the continuous suction
has created new pathways for it)?
Would running the system on a daily cycle be more effective by sweeping whatever is seeping out of the group up more regularly?

Edited; I have only read testing reports and wired abatement pumps. I modified my answer based on the feedback. As I have said in other posts granite especially pink or rose can be a significant source of radon.
I would not run the system while you are away, I probably would open the house lower level windows or vents when you arrive. You may even want to set up a automated system that you can remotely turn on the abatement system the day prior to your arrival.  Exterior vents at the lowest level with make up air for a while would purge the home of this gas and purging and having the system running prior to arrival might work fine but test to verify if the numbers are low this can save $$$!


Awning windows - How much ventilation do they provide? I am wondering if any of you have any experience with awning windows.  I am looking at a condo with large awning windows on the side (height that almost goes from ceiling to a little higher than the floor).  Actually I don't know how they look like since I've never been there before (still in construction).  I hear it is supposed to open only like 6 inches from the bottom.  My question is will it provide enough air ventilation?  Seems to me like because the awning window has an interesting way of opening up (bottom pushes out), the wind is not able to directly flow inside.  It has to go around.  Will it be enough to ventilate the place if i.e. there is only one window per room that can be opened?  Each room has 3 windows.

Can't say for the US market (as I don't have first hand experience over here), but in the UK if those windows didn't provide adequate ventilation (open-able window area) they would not be allowed to be used in the construction of a new home (building). They wouldn't get pass UK Building Regulations.

Therefore if the US is anything like the UK in that regard, I would say those windows are ok! for the environment they are being put into. That said, it doesn't guarantee you as an individual living in that condo will be happy with them (the amount of natural ventilation they provide), as different people tend to prefer certain environments eg

My wife likes our house overly warm in the winter and fridge cold in the summer.
Me, I prefer the house a little cooler in the winter (too warm and I want to fall asleep) and generally as long as it's cooler inside than outside during the summer months I'm ok!


Does a Skylight need to be installed with the dedicated flashing system I'm looking at this product

for a garden office roof but I could not find the corresponding flashing kit for the roof material I was planning to use, which is this:

The closest type of flashing I could find was this

but I'm not sure if it would be suitable for the chosen roofing material?

I just searched for a kit and it looks like the one you have picture is by Velux, and it illustrates it on the same roof you plan to use. Perhaps that is the way to go.
It may tell you this in the instructions for the flashing install, but on the piece below the skylight, I would flatten out the standing ribs just a bit to help ease the membrane over the top of the lower piece. That way no sharp corner could pierce the membrane.


How can I reconfigure my breakers to make room for a sub-panel feeder? Right now I have  a 100amp main panel, it is full as of now. I have looked into tandem breakers for a Federal Pioneer Breaker Panel. I could not find any tandem breakers for this panel. So would my next option change my panel to a panel that can handle tandem breakers and or have more slots (100 amp service)?

Also if I were to replace electrical hot water heater with gas that opens a 30 amp double pole breaker. Can I replace that breaker with a 60 amp breaker for my subpanel?

There are 100a 32slot main panels available from GE. This would solve your lack of slots, but since you want to add a 60 amp service it may be wise to upgrade your service to 150a with a higher slot count. Many electricians will suggest going as large as possible for future loads.

If you do change from an electric water heater to gas you could use that slot but many water heaters no longer have pilot lights and they require an outlet for the igniter, so keep that in mind. The wires in use now may be able to be changed to 120v depending on the type (some only have 2 hots and a ground). If legal in Canada you could reidentify one of the hots as a neutral at both ends so you won't have to pull new wires.

I have heard that the Canadian federal Pacific panels don't have the issues experienced in the US but if it is a stab lock style of breaker I would want an updated panel because I have found several that have failed for breakers not tripping and arcing at the buss. I save used breakers for possible use on other panels but after my 3rd stab lock panel failure I started testing breakers and found quite a few failures. I no longer save stab locks. I toss them and the only work I will do on a stab lock panel is to replace it because of liability.


What weather resistant, non aluminum quad cable can I use to run an overhead line to a 220V 20 amp subpanel? This question was asked, but the answer is not practical as the subpanel is only for 20 amp 220 VAC So, quadruplex cable is overkill.   What about something like marine cable?  Or a 10-3 with ground (black-red-white & bare copper ground). or even a 10-4, in a weather & UV resistant jacket?

Like the temporary construction cables... Anything like that for low current (20A) overhead runs?    It's all about cable that will survive the weather for many years.  Perhaps they don't make something like that anymore?

You'll need to field assemble this

You will need to field assemble the correct cable for this job from a few different parts.  First, you will need a messenger wire, made from stranded steel (yes!), to provide this assembly with the mechanical strength needed to withstand the rigors of being out in the open.  Second, you'll need some 10-3 UF cable, just like the stuff you'd stick in the ground for this circuit.  Third, you'll need to use a wire to lash the UF cable to the messenger out in the field.

Once this is all installed, with the messenger wire going up first and tensioned correctly according to a sag and tension chart or corresponding sag and tension calculation, followed by the UF and field lashing (don't forget the drip loops on the UF at each end!), you'll then need to run a split bolt and 10AWG bare copper ground wire down from the messenger to a junction box at one end, where it can be connected to the circuit ground wire in order to bond the messenger wire.


How would one solve this tub-length issue? We have a 1 3/4" bath situation in our house.  Like many 1970's ranch style homes, the floorplan's master has only a single vanity, toilet, and shower.  The guest bathroom, which is attached to one of the bedrooms, has a tub (likely because that's where the kids would be.)
The original floorplan design called for 3 bedrooms.  Ours is actually two, where the "master" is actually smaller than the space that's opened up by removing the partitioning wall that made the 2nd, and 3rd bedrooms.  So, in short, our master is not really a master, and the 2 bedrooms that are now one serve as the master for us.  Consequently, it is where the full bath is and we don't need a bathtub in the master bath.  To complicate things, that makes our master bathroom the guest bathroom when we entertain.  Bleh.
Knowing all of that, we were considering swapping moving the tub to the "master" and the shower to where the bath is.
Hurdles
Drain Location:
For the current bathtub location, we can simply adapt by installing a linear drain with a curb-less shower.  For the new location, the drain is off the walls by about 13", so we'll need to either re-plumb, or elevate the tub and run the pipes under.
Bigger Issue and Question:
Where the tub is going, we have studs on the faucet end, and block wall on the opposite end.  The distance from the block wall to the stud is 61".  We need to insulate the block wall with 1" foam and then add 3/4" furring strips for the drywall, and then 1/2" X 2 backer board or drywall.
So, that's 2 3/4" eaten up from the available rough opening, reducing the available finished space to 58 1/4".
Would it make sense to put a 54" tub in this space?  If so, what would I do to frame out that anomaly and not have it look like garbage?
The wall will be tiled above the bath.

First thing I'd do is challenge whether the wall finish stack-up you described is actually required.
Could furring strips or hat channel be embedded in the same plane as the XPS foam? If so there's no loss of dimension due to the furring strips. Are furring strips even needed? Could the subsequent layer of drywall or backer board be held by adhesive, or by screws through the foam into the block wall?
Why two layers of drywall or backer board? Would one layer suffice? What about a thinner alternative such as Schluter's KERDI membrane? (I've never used that product; it's just an example that caught my eye.)
Also: the water-shedding layer in the wall could (should?) go in front of the flange of the tub. When placed there you don't have to allow space for this layer in the rough-in sizing.
If you do go with the 54" tub and need to make up 4 inches somewhere you're going to have to just build a box. It can be completely invisible if you make the box the entire width of the room, ie make the whole room 54" wide. But maybe there's a way to avoid that and also make the space useful. For example, frame a built-in shower bench opposite from the faucet.
If the the 4" build-out box extends wider than the width of the tub by one or two stud bays then that 4" plus the 3.5" depth of the existing wall could be turned into a built-in storage space. It's kind of shallow, but.. it could easily fit rolls of toilet paper, feminine supplies, cleaning products.. a whole lot of rubber ducks (Youtube, James Veitch Is A Terrible Roommate)..or hide-away towel racks, maybe?


How to convert fan switch to new light switch? I just moved into a new house.  In the bedrooms there is a pre-installed light fixture that is pre-wired to be converted into a ceiling fan. There is already dual gang switch, a dimmer for the light and the second one for the fan switch.  Since there is no fan, that fan switch is obviously serving no function right now.  I'm assuming that the fan switch has the red wire attached with the other end of the red wire likely capped within the light fixture.  I would like to install some recessed ceiling lights into the bedroom and have them on a separate switch from the already installed light fixture.  The proper way to do this install is to run new romex wire from the fan switch, cap that red wire, and use that to feed the new recessed lights.  However I know that the red wire is a hot wire.  Is there SAFE way of using that red wire that was meant for the fan and use it to power the new recessed lights instead?  If so, what would be the proper way to wire this?  Thanks.

Yes you can use the existing box that supports the bedroom light as  a junction box.  Run a 14-2 from there, black to red and white to white, all grounds together. The other end of this can now be used for the new lights in the bed room. Good luck.


220v 30amp 4 Wire to 3 Wire Bandsaw I just got a bandsaw with the 5hp motor that requires a 220v 30amp single phase connection. I have it up and running with a three wire dryer cable to my dryer receptacle. When researching requirements for a new circuit I found out the NEMA 10-30 receptacles have been deprecated. I ordered a 14-30r and 14-30p along with a four wire cable. A video on wiring the cord to the saw showed two loads wires and a green ground. Am I ok leaving the white neutral unconnected?

I am really not sure what you mean by depreciated. So moving on from that we can see if this question can be answered.

Many people get confused with different types of circuits. In your case a 240V circuit or a 120/240V circuit, and these are two different circuits. The 240V circuit (a nominal 220V) requires the use of 240V only. This requires 2 conductors that measure 240V across them and a grounding conductor. A 120/240V piece of equipment requires two different voltages to function. This one requires 2 conductors that measure 240V one conductor the neutral conductor (the white one or identified or grounded) and it measures 120V between the other 2 conductors and a grounding conductor.

The NEMA configuration 14-30 receptacle is a standard design for the 120/240V circuit. There is nothing wrong to use it for a 240V circuit.

That's a long way around to say that the receptacle itself and the circuit really doesn't have to have a neutral if it is a specific duty circuit for the band saw. Even though you might want to install a neutral conductor if you are ever thinking about using the circuit for something other than your band saw.

Stay safe and never work on circuits when they are alive.


Why do I have clumps of grass in my bathtub after a sewage overflow? The washer drained and two bathroom toilets violently overflowed. Nasty, stinky, sewage and water came up in both bathroom tubs, the shower drain and both sinks as well. I could hear water gurgling in the kitchen sink. The water has finally drained from the bathtubs and there is dirt and clumps of grass in the bottom of the tubs.

What is going on?

In many small towns, or towns that used to be small, when the sewer system was constructed the people in charge decided to save money by connecting the storm drain system into the sewage collection. The idea is that all the rain water will be collected at the sewage facility and treated together. What usually happens after the sewage handling has been outgrown by the population or there has been a very large rain is that the sewage system will backup into the rain water collection and causes problems. What I suspect has happened in your case is that people mowed their lawns and the grass clippings ended up in the rainwater collection drains. The rainwater emptied into the sewer system and then the system (unfortunately) backed up into your house. I don't think you have more to worry about past the fact that your town has a sewer problem. Though I probably wouldn't eat any  fish you catch nearby.


Low Voltage C-Wire at Thermostat Looking to install an ecobee thermostat and decided to measure my common wire before unhooking anything. I tested the R, C wires and see they are only reading 14v, whereas R,Y, and R,W are reading 28v.

I traced the wires from the HVAC board and do see a blue and red wire coming from the C terminal. I then traced the red wire and it looks to be going to the condensing unit, the blue wire does lead towards the thermostat, however, each end is coiled around itself at the splice.

Would it be okay to splice the two blue wires together to make connectivity? Or, is there a specific reason that it would be configured this way.

Go for it

Any modern furnace will have enough capacity on the C wire to support a "smart" thermostat as well as powering the control board and the compressor contactor, so I would simply take the coiled-up blue wire ends at the splice, nut them together, install your new thermostat, and enjoy!


Adding Recessed Lighting to room with ceiling fan and a 4 way switch? I am installing recessed lighting. There is currently a ceiling fan with a light already installed on the ceiling I am installing the lights. 3 switches all control power to the ceiling fan.

My goal is to have one dimmer switch for the recessed lighting and then one switch for the new fan I will install that doesn't have a light.

I am okay getting rid of the 4 way switch.

Here is a diagram of my current set up.

https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/4_way_switch_diagram.html

First of all the 4 way switches come in handy for controlling it from different spots but here are some ways you can do. you could make the recessed lights be on the 4 way switch system and replace the 3 toggles with dimmers and run an extra hot wire for the fan iself. Or you could make the neutral wire running from the switch box directly to the fan box as a hot wire tape ot black and put the fan neutral to ground and make the new hot run the fan unless it;s code voilation but i tried it myself it worked fine. and if you dont want the 4 way switch you can replace the extras with a coverplate. and the extra wires can be used for the fan and one for light. good luck.


Dimmer - 120V in, 70V out, normal? I’m redoing a room in my house and I’m replacing a normal switch with a dimmer. I read 120V from hot to ground from the source, and 70V out from the dimmer (Leviton, LED/incandescent compatible). The wiring is pretty straightforward: it’s 2 14/2 wires, whites are connected together with a nut and black from source in the black screw and black that goes to the light on red screw.
Is the 70V after the dimmer normal or it’s faulty? I didn’t connect anything to it yet, I’ve read the reading directly at the end of the wire (about 6 feet).

You will never get 100% out of a dimmer, but 70 sounds low. Do you have a trueRMS multimeter or a cheapo unit? A non-RMS one could be mis-sampling the AC voltage given the irregular shape of the resulting AC waveform, which can give an off reading.
I would also check again with a load (bulb) in-place. You might not have enough current to get the triac (the component that "dims" AC) to latch (holding current, often >10ma, aka 1.2 watts in USA) early enough in the sine wave. Adding a load will enable everything to work as designed, which could (should?) fix the issue.


Contraption for hanging a mirror A mirror has four pieces of hardware of the one appearing in the image, one at each corner.

Attempting to insert simultaneously four flat-head wood screws in these slots would likely be frustrating. Plus I'd rather leave myself some room for not getting the locations of the screws so absolutely accurate.

Is there some hardware that matches the one pictured? Would two screws be enough or, if four are present, four are necessary? Is this mirror meant to be hung as shown, or rotated 90 degrees? Are these pieces of hardware meant for somehow adding a cable, then hanging the mirror from that cable? Would the cable need to go around all four, perhaps loosely to distribute the load?

This is a part of a security hanger set:

Security Hanger Set

Two of the straps you have pictured go on the top of the mirror, and the clips on the right side of the picture go on the wall and hook into the straps.

One strap is installed in the bottom center of the mirror and the T-shaped screw in the center of the picture gets installed in the wall horizontally.  The mirror is hung and the T screw fits perfectly in the horizontal slot of the strap.  Then the wrench at the bottom of the picture is used to rotate the T-screw vertically to lock it into the strap.

If you only have one on the bottom of the mirror, chances are something else was used along the sides or top to hang it and the bottom strap was used only for the security T-screw.  Or the straps at the top were removed by someone to be used on another hanging.


How to wire a 2 in 1 paddle switch I am changing a 2 in 1 switch that controls a light(top) and garbage disposal (bottom). They are controlled by different breakers. There was 3 wires in the old box. Black and red on top (different sides) and red on bottom, same side as black on top. I purchased a Legrand RCD33WCC6 paddle switch. When I wire red for light to top,black to common (Middle),and red for disposal on bottom. The light works with switch but disposal just comes on and stays on.  What is wrong?

If they are on different breakers, you can't use a switch with a common hot.

You need something like (picked at random by Googling "dual independent switch") Decora 15 Amp Single Pole Dual Switch. The instructions include removing a tab that connects the hots if you need separate hots - just like using a dual receptacle on two separate circuits.

WAIT A MINUTE!!! From what you described, the old switch only had 3 wires! That means it also had 1 hot, 2 switched hot. In which case it was not on 2 separate breakers. If that's the case, you just have the wires confused. Separate the 3 wires. Determine which wire is hot using a tester (non-contact should be sufficient if it gives a clear indication, multimeter is the best test). Then turn the breaker (singular!) off again connect the hot to the common screw and one at a time connect one of the other wires to a switch and see what happens. You should be able to track it down that way to determine which wire goes where and get everything working.

Remember:

Screw location does not have anything to do with screw function. Each manufacturer, and each model within a manufacturer, can vary.
Color does not indicate function. It should, but often it does not. If things are wired (USA) according to code, you should find:

Green/bare = Ground
White/Gray = Neutral
Black/Red/other colors = Hot, Switched Hot, Travelers, etc.

So while typically black = hot, red = switched hot, there are no guarantees.


Can I use a standard extension cord with my refrigerator? I live in the US and my refrigerator is 115 Volt. I'd like to power it directly from the socket with an extension cord, but I've been told that it must be powered via a surge protector or a special power cord. Is this true?

The power cord would have to be short and made of 12AWG wire with ground. I would not go more than a few feet. Best to just have an outlet (dedicated) installed to the fridge.

No special surge protector or special type of extension cord would be required other than the size I mentioned.


How to fix this backsplash tiling job? We purchased 1' x 1' tiling sheets. The tiles are about 2" x 1".
The tiling guys didn't use spacers everywhere. They taped the sheets and sometimes used spacers where the sheets met (and not everywhere they met).

Some of the tiles were also not flat with the plane of the other tiles.

Also, how come there is so much thinset(?) between the tiles right now?  The grout hasn't even been applied.

How would all these issues be fixed?  We are going to be using a dark contrasting grout so all of these mistakes will be magnified.

update 11/24

The contractor basically removed individual tiles and fixed 99% of the tiles.
We still haven't grouted yet. Going to carefully inspect.

For the tile spacing issue, I don't think there is much you can do at this point short of ripping it all out and starting over.

For the tiles not set in plane correctly, I think you could carefully remove those tiles (just the individual tile), scrape out the hardened thinset behind them, and then re-apply with new thinset.

For the thinset squeezing out, perhaps you could grind that out with a oscillating tool with a grout removal attachment.


LED lights cause appliance failure Here is a fun one. I installed 2 LED bulbs into my Genie garage door opener and it caused the microwave to lose power. They are both on the same circuit. When I tested the voltage at the microwave outlet it read 48 volts. That usually means a ground reference problem. Take the bulbs out and the microwave lights up and operates fine. I installed one LED and one incandescent it it works as well.

Any suggestions on a long life bulb preferably LED they doesn’t cause this issue?

No, because you have worse problems than that.

The situation of "LEDs make it fail/act weird, but even one incandescent fixes it" indicates only one thing: a powered switch of some kind, a dimmer, lighted switch, smart switch, motion sensor, something/anything like that.

Obviously, nothing like that should have any relationship whatsoever with your microwave, but the evidence is clear that it does.

And the problem is not as simple as identifying the smart device and changing it to a dumb switch.  Something is fundamentally, seriously wrong and dangerous with that circuit, this is just the "canary in the coal mine".

Also beware of multi-wire branch circuits -not that there's anything wrong with them if done right, but they are much more sensitive to being done wrong.

You might also change the breaker  to GFCI - it will help motivate you -- I mean will help detect faulty wiring.


Washing Machine Not filling I have a Roper (by whirlpool) washing machine. When it comes on, the water pours out of the spout, but the basin never fills. I suspect that it has something to do with the plugging mechanism. Does anyone have any experience fixing a problem like this?

Some basic troubleshooting: the water has to be going somewhere. If the water is going in but not staying in, that means it's going out, and if it's not spilling out on the floor, that means it's going out through the drain hose. Can you see water going out the drain hose?

If so, is the outlet of the drain hose lower than the level of the washer's spinning basin? If so, then that's where the water is going. You've turned the whole washing machine into a big water level and one side of the level (the drain hose) allows water to escape, so it's escaping. Solution: raise the outlet of the drain hose somehow.

If the outlet of the drain hose is already higher than the level of the basin and water is still coming out of it, then it sounds like the pump is prematurely pumping the water out for no good reason. Can you hear the sound of the pump? I'll defer to someone who knows more about washing machine repair if this is the case?


Can I paint over this? Can I paint over

Dulux Kitchens and bathrooms moisture resistant soft sheen emulusion

with

Dulux kitchen+ grease and stain protection Matt ?

I doubt there'd be any problems. After all, when the moisture resistant paint was first put on, more than one coat would have been used, therefore it is possible to paint over it. Just make sure you give the wall a good clean (i.e. use sugar soap) before putting the new paint on.


Two switches in one junction box I have a junction box with two switches in it.  I have found some interesting wiring in this house, but I am not sure what to do with this. The switch on the left has two red wires going to it and one white.  The other has two blacks.  There is also another three way switch I believe is wired into this circuit.  Any ideas on what this set up is?

Never mind the wire colors

Since Romex is limited to red/white/black and the occasional blue, you pretty much have to ignore colors when dealing with wiring, save for white often but not always being neutral and green or bare almost always being ground.

As to decoding your box (grounds omitted since we know what they do :)

LR (Left-hand Red): This is the switched-hot going out to whatever the 3-way controls -- it will land on the differently-colored (usually black) screw on the 3-way switch.
LB (Left-hand Black): This is the incoming always-hot -- it goes to the black bundle with MB and the pigtail to the single pole switch.
LW (Left-hand White): This is the incoming neutral -- it goes to the white bundle with RW.
MR (Middle Red): This is a traveler wire between the two three-way switches -- it lands on one of the two same colored (usually brass) screws on the 3-way switch.
MB (Middle Black): This is the always-hot out to the other 3-way switch, forming an old-style switch loop with the two travelers in the middle cable.
MW (Middle White): This is the other traveler wire between the two three-way switches -- it lands on the other same colored screw on the 3-way switch.
RB (Right Black): This is the switched hot going from the single pole switch to whatever it controls -- it lands on the single pole switch.
RW (Right White): This is the neutral out to whatever the single pole switch controls -- it goes into the bundle of white wires with LW.

While you're in there, don't forget to stick a tape flag (use electrical tape for this) on the middle cable's white wire so that the next person working in the box knows its a traveler and not a neutral.  Or, better yet, use color-coded tape flags to mark the wires by function: black for always-hot, red for switched-hot, and say yellow or blue for travellers, for instance.  (You don't need to distinguish the two travellers from each other since they have the same job.)


Aprilaire 600M Wiring to Honeywell TH8321 Stat Very rookie DIY guy here...I have installed an Aprilaire 600M but can't figure out how to wire it.
My thermostat currently is using the U1 port for a normally-closed damper on a fresh air intake.
I wanted to connect the humidifier so that it would use the humidity control of the thermostat but (I don't understand how that would tell the humidifier what RH% to max out at.)
At this point I'm just looking for the simplest way to get this humidifier working because our house is at 14% humidity.
The Orange U1 wire at stat connects to the red wire of this fresh air damper . The white wire of damper connects to a 20VA transformer in the furnace (yellow wire).  The black wire at STAT U1 connects to the thicker blue thermostat wire (2nd pic)
Aprilaire 600M came with it's own 24 volt transformer if I need to use it.
Thanks in advance for any help these two solenoid wires are all that's keeping us from comfort!!

I skimmed through the thermostat manual in the link but it didn't seem to address your model very well. For example, I didn't see anything about the capabilities of the U1 terminals.
The signal from the thermostat to the humidifier to quit humidifying is simple: the thermostat's output controls the water valve. When the thermostat turns off its signal the water valve closes and the humidifier dries up.
A simple solution is to get the Aprilaire humidistat and let it control the humidity rather than having the thermostat do the job.
It's a little nicer to have the thermostat control the humidifier valve, but to get there it looks as if you'll have to find some other way of controlling the damper. An upgrade of the thermostat to one that supports two accessories could work. There might be another way, though. It depends on when the damper should be operated. The furnace control might already have support for operating an accessory, for example. Or, if the damper should operate only when the thermostat calls for heat, you could add a relay to make it so.


What is controlling this baseboard heater without a thermostat? I have a baseboard heater in my bathroom. It doesn't have a thermostat on the heater itself and there isn't one on the wall either. When I want heat I have to turn on the breaker feeding that heater. The problem is, the heater gets warm but not warm enough. After half an hour I can put my hand on the baseboard heater and it isn't hot at all. It's warm. Since there isn't a thermostat anywhere, what would be determining the temperature of this heater? And can it be adjusted somehow?

It may be a vestige of a larger whole house baseboard heating system, where there was a central t-stat somewhere and all of the baseboard heaters were controlled from that one point. If that system was replaced with a central forced air heating system at some point and just this one room still has the baseboard heater (i.e. because there was no duct run to it), that baseboard may still be connected to a central t-stat somewhere that is buried or hidden. So it gets satisfied by your central heating system and shuts off, killing your sole remaining baseboard. The reason I know this is that I had that exact situation in a house in Seattle, where baseboard heating was the norm back when electricity was almost free. I put in central forced air gas heating, but had no ducts going to a seldom used basement room, so I left the baseboard there to be used only when the room was used. I didn't realize that the t-stat in the wall in the basement stairwell, which I thought was abandoned, was still active and controlling that baseboard heater.


How to properly insulate bedroom I live in an 80-100 year old house (not sure of exact age...my great grandfather built it, and it has been passed down for a few generations).  He built it out of whatever was cheap at the time, so in many of the rooms we found things like newspaper used for insulation (which was actually kind of awesome).  We live in Ontario, Canada, so it can get pretty cold here.

I will soon be renovating the master bedroom.  Most of the rest of the house has already been renovated, this is the last remaining original room.  This room has seen some water damage from a leaking roof (since fixed), and drywall damage from age and clumsy people.

Once the weather is nicer, we plan to:

Gut the room
Install new electrical - replacing the old probably crumbling wiring and adding a new circuit for additional outlets (the wire for which is already run into the attic during a previous renovation).
Add ceiling lighting and wall switch
Replace/add new insulation
Re-drywall, paint, carpet, etc.

As luck would have it between my family and myself we have all the skills to do the drywall and electrical work.  The part we are unsure of is what kind of insulation we need, and how to put it in.

This view from outside shows where the master bedroom is.  The room itself is 12' x 12'.  There are attics on 2 walls and the ceiling, and one outside wall.

This room is freezing in winter!  I can feel the cold practically blowing through the walls.  This makes my wife unhappy, so must be fixed.

Since the drywall is broken on the outside facing wall, I can see what is already there:

This area is probably narrower than the rest of the wall, since it is right next to a window on the left.  The pink foam at the bottom is what I crammed in there temporarily and covered the hole with vapour barrier plastic.

I can access the attic to add insulation from above, or I can install it from below before drywalling the ceiling.

So, my questions are:

What kind of insulation do I need for the 3 walls and ceiling?  There are dozens of different kinds and ratings of insulation at the local building stores, and I have no idea what to pick.  I don't want to spend more than I need to, but I also don't want to freeze.
Do I need vapour barrier as well?
For the side attics, where do the insulation and vapour barrier go?  Inside the wall, or against the roof?  Which side does the vapour barrier go on?
 -

I grew up with vermiculite (now rare due to most of it being contaminated (in the ground) with asbestos), moved on to fiberglass, and am now a blown-cellulose convert.

They all work, for various values of "work."

Cellulose is inexpensive, gets MORE effective when cold, and blocks airflow well enough that a vapor barrier is (possibly) optional according to some researchers. It's dusty during install, but otherwise innocuous. I'd suggest getting a bale from each supplier (or each different brand from suppliers) and inspecting it - or from the supplier you'd go with on a cost basis (first) and if that fails your inspection, from others. I found the sample I got from a major home improvement chain was contaminated with a lot of scrap plastic; as it turns out, not only were the bales from my local home improvement non-chain cheaper per pound, they were also good clean cellulose with no plastic scraps.

Fiberglass compares well at 70F (where R values are measured) but gets quite terrible at -20F, just when you want it working hardest. It's far more prone to air movement (whether in batts, where seams are are a problem or as loose-fill.) Plus there's that whole scratchy thing going on with glass fibers.

According to "belt and suspenders" thinking and "it's cheap enough" my cellulose is sitting on top of a vapor barrier. One more way to stop air movement. Since your climate is primarily heating, your vapor barrier goes on the inside (generally, the "warm" side - complicated in climates where heating and cooling are similar.)

If you are not using the space beyond the wall, insulate the wall (and perhaps add some furring strips to get more insulation on the wall where there is room.) If you insulate the roof, you need to provide cold air channels against the roof surface to vent the roof appropriately (though with that steep of an edge, it might be difficult to get a serious ice dam, which is what roof venting/cold roof design is trying to prevent.)

Since you are gutting it, you may also want to furr out the endwall to make it thicker and give you more space for insulation, since you won't get a lot of R-value with any insulation in the space available. Alternately, and at higher cost, you could sandwich a layer of sheet-foam type insulation over the studs and under the drywall on that wall.

Generally you will also want at least a few cans of polyurethane spray foam. While you can do all your insulating with spray-foam, it's very expensive, relative to other kinds of insulation. But it's great for sealing irregular cracks and crevices.


Prevent Dirt Movement Down Slope Through Gap Under Fence I have a fence that separates my land from my neighbors and I'd like to figure out how to prevent dirt from washing onto my land from the 2" gap under the fence. It's a painted wood fence with horizontal wood.

There is a slight slope to my neighbor's yard and my side of the fence has a wide brick walkway that is about 6-10 inches away from the fence. The opposite side of the walkway features a short concrete hip wall with french drains running along the edge. Those drains get clogged by the dirt that comes from my neighbors yard when we get a good amount of rainfall and therefor it can create a small lake that is not fun to walk through.

This fence is a very sensitive issue with my neighbor since the previous owner on our house installed it to replace a much shorter fence. The taller fence cut off much of my neighbor's view of a pond that is nearby. We love the fence since it makes it so we don't see much of the neighbors ugly yard and gives us privacy. So, I'm looking for a solution that might allow water to flow, but dramatically limit the amount of soil moving while at the same time not creating too much notice on my neighbor's part.

A contractor wanted to remove the fence, install a retaining wall with filter fabric behind it and then re-install the fence. That would a) be too expensive and b) cause way too much disruption with my neighbor. Is there something I can install either on my side of the fence in the 6-10" gap between it and brick walkway, or something I can slip onto the neighbor's side that would not be overly noticeable.

Below are the original architectural plans where I added color: Black=Fence, Red=Brick Walkway, Yellow=hip wall

View from my side of the fence.

To further isherwood's comment on your original post, once your neighbor's dirt is piled high enough on his side of the fence, the dirt and water will start to come through the gap between the bottom 2 boards instead of under the bottom board. Then you're back to the same problem, just higher. Until the bottom board rots out.

Harper's comment about working with the neighbor to reroute the drainage on his side and lowering your fence to restore his view is probably the best suggestion.

If the neighbor is unwilling to work with you, then your best bet is probably going to involve a fair bit of expense on your side - installing a 2nd French drain on the other side of the walkway to capture his runoff before it hits your walkway.

Getting the water off on the uphill side will eliminate the flooded walkway, leaving just the dirt behind (if there's fine enough filtration on top). This will, unfortunately, require some regular maintenance on your part to keep your uphill drain clean. It's one of those trade-offs in life - clean the drain or walk through the puddles.

After getting some estimates to tear up half your walkway, install the drain, and reinstall the walkway, you may want to go back to the neighbor with some cash in hand and offer to help pay for the drainage work on his side instead. Note: I'm not suggesting you pay for all of it, or even the majority of it, just some as a goodwill gesture and because it will be cheaper (and less disruptive to you) than doing the work on your side. A cash contribution toward the work and an offer to lower some of the fence to restore at least some of the view without giving up too much of your privacy may go a long way toward getting this solved properly. If you go this route and the neighbor is agreeable, I'd suggest putting it all in writing before starting, just to be safe. I don't think a lawyer would be necessary - generally putting it on paper with both your signatures (each of you retain a copy) should be sufficient. That's a question for law.se, though, not here.


How to test an electrical switch to ensure the power is off I used a voltmeter to test for power on my electrical switch and I was surprised by a blast of electricity.  You can see the damage in the picture.  Why did I get a reaction?  Did I test it incorrectly?  Or was it that I seemed to have touched the faceplate?

I want to be sure I can test these for voltage properly in the future and without frying my voltmeter wires, causing a fire or hurting myself.

You did this while the switch was still in the box, didn't you.

What you didn't know was that the box itself, and thus the metal mounting frame of the switch, us connected to safety ground, and bumping against that while touching hot created a short circuit.

One solution is to use an insulated probe, so it can't make that accidental second connection. Another is to use a non contact voltage sensor, which can pick up house current near its tip without needing any exposed metal; thats what I would recommend for most beginners.


Is it possible to wire switch outlet combo on switch loop? I wanted to replace a single pole switch in a two gang box with a switch/outlet combo so the switch and outlet work independently (or the outlet is always hot). One single pole switch (switch #1) in the box seems to be on a switch loop powering an outside light as both the hot and neutral are wired to the switch. Switch #1 is connected to another single pole switch (Switch #2) that powers a separate outdoor light. There are only two incoming 12/2 lines that both have black, white and ground wires. The second incoming 12/2 has the white wire attached to switch #2 and the black wire does not terminate at all and is just curled up in the back of the box. I do not believe I can wire the switch/outlet combo (please comment) but I am now wondering if this is an unsafe wiring of these two switches. The lights these switches operate work independently now. See attached pic.

Your switch on the left has the HOT Wire coming in to it. The two blacks - one of those blacks is a jumper to the other switch.

The White wires are not neutrals otherwise when you flip the switch you would have a dead short between hot and neutral and your CB should trip!

The wiring violates code!

The box looks like a DIY'er installed it - and that would explain the wiring.

Normally - your hot run would come into the box (3-wires black, white and copper in a jacket :  Romex wire) from the Circuit breaker panel or as part of a loop.  You would then have 2 sets of Romex (jacketed wire - 3 wires in a  jacket)  going out from that box to each light.

Inside your box the whites would be tied together with a wire nut and the grounds would be tied together with a wire nut.

You would have the hots (black wires) Black from CB panel on bottom screw of switch - with the black jumper to the bottom screw of the other switch, and a black from your outside light 1 to the top screw of switch 1, and a black from your outside light 2 to the top screw of switch 2.

What this means is those outside lights are wired wrong as well - just looking at the wiring - as sharp minded Harper pointed out current is probably carried by the ground! - I would say he is right on point too - because a DIY'er went cheap with the wire runs - that is why those whites are being used as hots! Now I will bring up something else - the hot coming in to this box might be fed from another nearby circuit - near to the outside light or near to the switches there - either way probably SCREWY!

Now to add an additional outlet to that box as part of a combo - First FIX your wiring to be correct according to proper practices and CODE. Then you can put a combo switch/outlet in the place of one of those switches. You should be able to do this with 3 Romex cables - 1 From box to Light 1, 1 From box to Light 2, 1 From CB panel (or from a loop) to Box.


How was this subfloor cleaned? I'm replacing the floor in my bathroom, which was previously a vinyl sheet. Prior to that (and I think original to the house, built in early 70's) it was some peel and stick-type tiles, except they're very hard (they remind of me what would be sold as commercial tiles now). There were some tiles left under the old vanity, and since I'm replacing it with a differently-sized vanity, I figure I'll put the new floor underneath it as well, which means the subfloor has to be flat.

After I scraped up the old tiles, the floor is all black, presumably from the adhesive in the tiles. The rest of the floor though, that was covered by the vinyl sheet, looks like it's had the adhesive cleaned off.

How was this cleaned, and why is it all white now?

The floor was cut exactly to the outline of the vanity, and from the old paint on the wall, it looks like prior to the vanity there was just a wall-mounted sink. I'm going to guess the vanity was installed, and then sometime later the vinyl flooring was installed, as otherwise I can't see how the tiles got cut to this pattern.

I'm putting a floating vinyl plank tile floor in place, and this part will be underneath the vanity anyways (the new vanity is slightly bigger). Should I bother trying to clean this part as well, or just put the new floor over top?

Update: I added a whole bunch of screws to reinforce the floor to the joists below, and help reduce some of the squeaking. In one spot, right along an edge of the plywood, the white stuff flaked off - so it seems rather than being 'cleaned', there's actually a really thin layer of something on top of the black adhesive. There's no noticeable difference between the height of the two sections.

I've since laid the new floor on top, I didn't do anything extra to this subfloor.

What kind of flooring are you putting down? If it's tile, I'd probably reinforce the floor a bit first with a new layer of t&g subfloor before putting the tile down... which solves your problem.

If there's any musty smell, you can clean the floor with trisodium phosphate (the real stuff, not "substitute") ... but don't soak it. Just scrub it with the tsp and a scrub brush. The TSP will probably take up the glue as well... but has a significant chance of eating your plywood in the process. ;)


Heat Pump - emergency electric strips - how controlled? I have a recently installed combination of a Goodman electric package unit, and an ecobee smart thermostat.

This morning with the outdoor temp at 36, I was surprised when I peered out the window and saw that my compressor fan was not running (which told me my house was being heated by the electric heat strips in the unit rather than the compressor).

I was surprised because the thermostat was set up to only run the heat strips if the outdoor temp was below 35, and the stat itself was claiming an outdoor temp of 36.

Now I am wondering if the goodman package unit has a thermostat of it's own that switches over to electric heat strip at a certain temp.

Since mid to upper 30's is such a common overnight temp around here during the winter, this could make a big difference in my power usage.  Just a few degrees one way or the other would change the percentage of my heating that was with the heat pump by a large margin.

I did some googling and can't find any detailed technical info about Goodman products on line.  Just very basic stuff.  They don't provide ANY tech support to customers, only through dealers.  argh.

Being that you are only talking about 1 degree difference I would think it is possible that the tstat began the heating cycle while the outdoor temp was at 35 and rose to 36 mid cycle.  Also, it's been 10+ years since I have been involved with Goodman, but they used to have a timer on the defrost control board so that if the unit ran for 30 ~ 120 minutes it would shutdown the heatpump and bring on the backup heat strip. The timing is set via a small dial on the defrost control board.  I believe that the default value is 90.  At 36° ambient temp, depending on the outdoor relative humidity, your heatpump certainly could have been running long enough to exceed that time.


Direction for deburring and filing tools After cutting a metal block I need to deburr the corners and edges. If there a large edge that stands out, I like to use a file, rather than a small deburring tool.

However I never understood why the deburring tool needs to be operated towards me, while the file needs to be slid away from me. Why the discrepancy in the directions?

Generally, when speaking of different types of files the cutting teeth on the grooves are oriented in different ways but are usually forward facing.  When pushed the teeth are able to cut the material properly.

Most novice users tend to adopt a sawing motion twice as many passes with the file, thinking it will take half the time to do the work. Unfortunately not.

If the file is employed this way with cutting happening on the forward stroke, the teeth will bend causing permanent damage on the draw stroke.

Best thing is to research any tools and procedures before starting the project.  And find the right tool for the job.


Why might my ceiling fan have been disconnected? Hi. We have been in our house for a couple of years and the ceiling fan in our conservatory has never woked. All the plugs worked fine.

Today, I took the fan down and found there was no power getting to the fan. I then check the spur coming off the house plug sockets and could see one set of connections that were fine but another which had seemly been cut at at the entry point. Lookin at the photo, it isnt a clean cut so i wonder if it had snapped.

Can anyone think why this might have disconnected? My underatanding is that these fans aren’t too electric hungry.

If not, does anyone have any tips how to reconnect with the wire being so close to the wall?

Thanks
Ian

Lookin at the photo, it isnt a clean cut so i wonder if it had snapped.

Not a chance. Cables don't snap easily. And they don't cut easily either, which is why the cut isn't clean.

  Can anyone think why this might have disconnected?

My best guess (and it's only a guess) is that the fan was installed by a DIYer, without getting Part P sign-off by an electrician, and in advance of selling the house the DIYer/vendor disconnected it (with extreme prejudice) as they didn't want any liability for it.

(The buyers of my last house may have come across a few similar things...)

  If not, does anyone have any tips how to reconnect with the wire being so close to the wall?

It may be possible to connect to the existing short wires with crimping. Might be worth talking to your local electrician for this.

Or you may be able to use this short wire to draw-through a new longer cable (although I'd guess the friction would probably be too high, and you'd risk stripping the new cable on corners.... On second thoughts: please don't try this idea).

Or you may have to bash a hole in the wall further back along the cable, in order to joint the cable somewhere where there's enough slack in the cable.


Which Kitchen outlets do NOT need GFCI? I have the 2 circuits in the kitchen with GFCI outlets, but I'm not quite sure which other ones do NOT need GFCI. Other circuits in the kitchen include Microwave, Fridge, and Dishwasher. It makes sense to me to not have the fridge on GFCI though.

The NEC (NFPA 70 2011 edition) requires GFCI receptacles in kitchens of dwelling units where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces. It does not mention a distance requirement in kitchens.
The distance requirement of 1.8 meters (6 feet) is for sinks located in areas other than kitchens.
Section 210.8 A of NFPA 70 2011 Edition deals with GFCI protection in dwelling units (see below).

210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel.
Ground-fault circuit-interruption for personnel shall be provided as
required in 210.8(A) through (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter
shall be installed in a readily accessible location. Informational
Note: See 215.9 for ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
personnel on feeders.
(A)  Dwelling Units.   All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1)
through (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
personnel
(1) Bathrooms
(2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at
or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to
storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.
(3) Outdoors
Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting,
deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment shall be permitted
to be installed in accordance with 426.28 or 427.22, as applicable.
(4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level
(5) Unfinished basements — for purposes of this section, unfinished
basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not
intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas,
and the like
Exception to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have
ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection.
Informational Note: See 760.41(B) and 760.121(B) for power supply requirements for fire alarm systems.
Receptacles installed under the exception to 210.8(A)(5) shall not be
considered as meeting the requirements of 210.52(G).
(6) Kitchens—
where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces
(7) Sinks — located in areas other than kitchens where receptacles are
installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
(8)
Boathouses


What is the best way to install a shower curtain when one wall is sloped I have a converted attic bedroom with a bathroom.  I want to install a curtain rod, but one side of the rod has to connect to a sloped wall (the roof). What would be the best way to install a rod in this scenario?

Get a swivel shower rod flange like this:

or this:

It looks like they're available in a range of sizes and finishes so you should be able to find one you like.


Does PEX tubing need to be secured to attic joists? I am slowly replacing my pin-holed leaking galvanized plumbing, piece be piece with PEX and Sharkbite connectors.  The old galvanized is secured, in many places by both clamps and u-nails.  What is the best practice with PEX?

Yes.  There are special plastic clamps that can be used with PEX so that the pipe does not wear.  You should secure it about every 32 to 48 inches, and anywhere to prevent the expansion/contraction of the pipe to cause wear.  It is not necessary to clamp where the pipe runs through holes in wooden joists/studs.


What happened to my drywall... insects? Purchased and older home 8 months ago, built in 1959. I noticed a very large crack recently in some old paint, about 10” long. As I started pulling it away from the wall, the paper is no longer attached to the gypsum. There are many holes in it, could termites have done this and why is it only in a 2’ section? In the area I see no signs of live  insects of any kind. The surface looks like a flat  Canyon (won’t let me upload image). Could it be an old issue since the pest report came back clean?

Yes - termites will do that. They will go anywhere there is moisture, and eat any cellulose products along the way. They will tunnel through Sheetrock and plaster. They will even eat the paper under the paint, and tunnel through the paint, to any wooden furniture or cardboard boxes, etc, against the wall.

If the moisture issue has been corrected, and/or the house treated, then they have most likely vacated or died. That doesn't mean that they won't come back though - usually entire neighborhoods are infested, and they are managed, but never completely eradicated.


Does a return air cavity in a wall need to be lined? What material do I need to place on both side of the wall to return air before I put drywall on top of it?
The return register will be install close to floor level and the wall is made of 2x4 lumber.
Thanks!

In terms of sealing a return vent, it is sufficient that the drywall and studs are compressed to create a channel in the wall. No need to caulk the corners, unless there are gaps. No metal lining needed.
For wall to floor transitions you can cut sheet metal to create a custom fitting (box), and seal its metal seams with tape or mastic duct sealant. Lip the metal over the drywall and screw it through the drywall into the stud. The grill will cover this. Screw the other end of the box to the return duct.
Most return in-takes I have seen have no additional sealing. There is a grill in the drywall, a cut-out in the bottom plate, and a blocking horizontal stud behind the drywall above the opening. Sometimes there is a metal return air box, but no additional sealant.
In stead of lining a drywall channel (because it has gaps and cracks), you can use round ducts and squeeze it into an oval or ellipse to fit in the wall cavity (e.g. a 8" duct in 2x4 framing). Since this is more restricting than a rectangular duct/channel formed by the drywall and studs, you'll have to calculate the area of the oval's cross section to make sure is sufficient for the required air flow.

Image from http://www.ductworkinstallation.com


How to build around metal column? I'm a bit stuck as to what I should do right now I've completed the framing in my basement. I realized the wall connected to this metal pipe was supposed to ideally be built using 2x6 rather than 2x4 so the edge of my frame as seen in image 2 doesn't match the outer edge of the support beam. Do I need to remove all my walls to re frame this wall as a 2x6 wall or is there another alternative for me? As well, I'm clueless as to how I'm supposed to frame around this pole in order to do the dry wall.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[

I would have notched the top plate of the piece of wall that is abutting the steel pole.  The goal here is to provide a flat plane and nailing edges for drywall.

Assuming the post is the end of your wall.  Since the steel post is proud of the edge of the 2x4 wall on one side probably the easiest thing is to cut strips of ply that pull the 2x4 wall to the same plane as the steel post.  I'd laminate all of the 2x4s by 1/2 or 1" whatever that post is proud of that side of the wall.

Then put a 2x6 ripped to the width of your new laminated wall and cut to the height of the post notched to the steel plate at the top.  I'd PL premium the 2x4 to the post and steel plate.  Sill gasket the bottom as there would be no pt plate.  Then you can drywall per normal such that the post is embedded in the framed wall.  I'd probably redo the top plate of the wall that approaches from the other side of the steel post so the drywall can be nailed all along in the same line.

Good luck.


Is there any way to change this light bulb? (no socket I guess) My ceiling lamp died. Is there any way that I can change this light bulb?
The white wires are soldered into the ballast inside the box. The ballast also is wired to pins connect to the bulb. So I guess I have to change the whole thing, both bulb and the ballast?

Also how to disconnect the connector on the left?

Usually, with those types of "2D" fluorescent tubes, you grasp the central plastic portion and pull down firmly. There are pins in the underside that are gripped by a receptacle in the fitting.

A video
Another

Here's some randomly selected  instructions


How do I keep old 1 pane glas from blowing out by high wind? Renting in old house with a couple of old 1 pane glass windows which need to be secure for hurricanes.  I am a senior female and need an easy reassuring fix.  The owner doesn't care, so I must do it myself.  Do you have any ideas on how to secure the windows?

It takes an insane amount of wind to blow out glass. I've been through a couple dozen hurricanes, and haven't seen winds high enough to blow glass out.

Debris in the wind, however, will. Only real protection from flying debris is plywood on the outside, and some powerful prayer.

If you aren't capable of covering the windows in plywood, nail heavy blankets tightly over the inside of the window, right on the trim. It won't prevent glass breakage, but should slow down any debris that makes it through.

I strongly urge you, if you are senior and alone, to seek public shelter, or stay at church, or with friends. Let people too young and ignorant to know better ride the storms.

Let me tell you a quick story. Hurricane Isabel - I sent my family inland to be protected from the storm surge, I stayed at the house to make sure everything was okay. As the storm surge waters rose, I watched the waters lap up to the house. I decided to grab the hatchet, and thought if the water got too high I would go up in the attic, chop a hole in the roof, and sit up on the roof during the floods. As the waters rose up another foot, and my house was completely surrounded in flood waters, I thought, " What, are you stupid?! Get the heck outta here, you can't hold back the river!!" Jumped in the truck, hauled tail outta there. Barely made it. My house was destroyed, and I probably would not have survived.

Lesson: You can't hold back the storm. Get out.


How should I support a stone mantel on a brick fireplace? Planning to use a slab of limestone, 4" high by 8" deep by 5' long, as a floating mantel shelf for a fireplace remodel.  The existing fireplace is red (Chicago) brick.

I'm resurfacing with ledgestone overlay.  I removed the cheap floating mantel (wood) and plan to hang this limestone.  My question is how I should hang it.

I originally planned to use some size of rebar as dowels epoxied into predrilled holes in the brick and the back of the limestone slab.  While rebar is strong it tension, I fear pullout or bending that would allow the slab to eventually slip off the supports.

Now I am considering using lag bolts into the brick, cutting off the heads and epoxying into predrilled holes in the slab.  Any thoughts on this, or the size of lags, or completely different method for attachment?

That is a pretty big piece of rock.

It would probably be better to distribute the load by using brackets.

In the photo above, the mantle is wood, but the principle for stone is the same.

What you want to do is build the brackets into the chimney as deeply as possible. So, you actually remove entire bricks and insert the brackets deep into the chimney superstructure. Then you just rest the mantle on the brackets. You can drill 1/2-inch holes in the bottom of the mantle and the top of the brackets and insert close-fitting steel pins to join the the mantle with the brackets, so it will not slide off.


Change to different condenser fan motor model? I have an HVAC system that has a condenser fan motor that has gone bad. The motor is no longer available. What considerations do I need to make in order to replace the motor with a different motor?

For example, if the voltage is the same, can I replace the motor with one that has similar speed? Would it just require a matching capacitor?

Additionally, can it be switched over to brushless?

You will need to match the RPM and the HP rating will need to match or exceed the original motor. Don't mess with "close enough" RPMs. Higher, and you will increase HP of motor needed by some unknown amount and potentially burn out motor. Or you will push the fan blade to RPMs it wasn't designed for and it could fail catastrophically. You will need a capacitor appropriate for the motor. You can use a brushless motor.


How to minimize waste when installing the subfloor I need to replace floor in a shed. Existing floor is a hodgepodge of pieces and materials (flat-edge OSB, particleboard), so I'd like to arrange floor from scratch using T&G OSB. What are the guidelines to orient the sheets so as to use minimal number of them, and produce off cuts that are more useful (e.g. half a sheet cut across vs. long narrow piece)?

I've looked for software solutions, but I could only find cut-sheet optimizing (nesting) software for sheet goods (such as MaxCut, CutList Plus etc.), but nothing obvious that would arrange full sheets in a given shape and dimensions. Whilst the question is about subfloor, same principles would apply to wall and roof sheathing as well.

There are no big secrets to be had here. You start with a full sheet, tongue just inside flush, and run a row, butts centered on your joists. You then use a "beater block" to drive the second row into the first, staggering butt joints at least one joist space (ideally roughly half the sheet's length). I like a 3-4' 2x4 that I can stand on and whack with a sledge hammer. If the cutoffs are long enough, start the next row with them. If not, they're scrap.

If you expect to end up with a very narrow final row, consider ripping say 12" off the tongue edge of the first row to make the last row wider. While the t&g joint eliminates most concern, rows of 10" or less are inherently weaker. Of course, you could also block under those narrow rows if you prefer.


How to wire a switch so that it does not turn off another in the chain? In my bathroom I have a 3-pole dimmer switch (1st picture) and an extractor fan switch across the room (2nd picture) that is powered through the light switch. The extractor fan switch works as expected, but only if the light switch is also on. If the light switch is dimmed it also slows the extractor fan. Can I easily make it so that the extractor fan will turn on and off regardless of the light switch position?

Thanks in advance.

Chema

Based on your description, it seems that your fan is wired in one of two ways:

The fan switch is on the ungrounded conductor (hot, black wire typically) after passing through the dimmer switch
The fan switch is on the grounded conductor (neutral, white wire typically) coming out of the fan fixture

Always switch the circuit breaker off before attempting any wiring changes and use a circuit tester to ensure the power is off

I attempted to use the solid black lines to indicate black insulated wires. Typically, those represent the ungrounded (hot) conductor. The black lines with a white stripe are white wires, typically the neutral (grounded) conductor. Double check your arrangement to make sure you know which wires are which for your case because someone might not have followed convention.

The former case is ideal because it would make rewiring easier (and means that there's never a chance for the fan fixture to be live even when its switch is off).

Case 1

Here's a diagram showing the status quo and how you would want to rewire it:

The red circle indicates a wire splice that needs to be moved upstream of the dimmer switch. You may find a wire nut on the load side of the dimmer switch, where one wire comes from the dimmer, one goes to the light, and one goes to the fan. Moving the wire coming from the fan so it's spliced on the wire coming from the circuit breaker should then isolate the fan and light.

Case 2

Based on the pictures, it seems that you may have the less ideal wiring case. This is dangerous because if the dimmer switch is on but the fan switch is off, the fan fixture is still energized and could represent a hazard if a short occurs.

Here's a diagram, as with case 1, showing the current and rewired circuits:

As before, the red circle indicates a splice that you will need to move. In fact, the final wiring diagram looks nearly identical because the desired outcome is the same no matter how you start. The only difference here is that you will need to add a wire splice where you removed the fan switch from the neutral. In essence, when you remove the switch, you need to close the circuit with a wire splice or you won't have a functional fan at all.


How smooth should I expect final finish to be on an new hardwood floor install? I had an existing hardwood floor in one part of the first floor connected to new wood in the rest of the first floor. The contractor has done a great job of splicing in so there is no gap. What I'm wondering is how smooth should I expect the final finish to be? After three finish coats, there are still some bumps in the finish. It is all over, not just these three images

There are standards for the installation of hardwood floors. The national association that is commonly used is the MFMA
https://www.maplefloor.org/TechnicalInfo/Finishes-Sealers.aspx
While their name has “maple” in it, it is also qualified to examine and review other species, such as birch, oak, etc.
I’ve given you a link that shows many members, but I’d scroll to the bottom for MFMA’s main home office in Illinois. I’d start there. They can refer you to a reputable investigator. You’ll probably have to pay to get someone to review the work and prepare a written evaluation.
It looks bad enough to me to require it be re-sanded, re-stained and re-sealed.


Wire and Conduit for line between house and outbuilding I need to run a line from my home to an outbuilding about 100 feet away, but 175 feet from panel to panel.  I have a deck and walkway between the home and outbuilding that I thought I would just run the line under in conduit rather than burying.  I am thinking of a 6-3 line with ground for a 50 amp service, perhaps a couple 1500 watt heaters, some lights and a few outlets.  Should I use cable or 4 single wires (all identical??) and do I need to run what I use in conduit in the garage attic and down an outside wall before going under the deck and walkway?  Also, what size conduit will I need to use?

If you run conduit you would use individual wires. You could run the entire distance in conduit if you choose.

A 50 amp circuit only requires a #10 ground so you would have 3-#6 and 1-#10 copper wires for this circuit. These would fit in a 3/4" PVC schedule 40 conduit according to the Code.

With a light load (4 KW is less than half of this circuit) voltage drop should not be an issue but if you add a large motor load like a compressor you may get a slight flicker in your lights when the compressor starts. The longer the distance on the circuit the more this becomes an issue. Since you are currently oversized it should not be a problem unless you plan to put a larger load on the end of the line in the future.

Good luck and be careful!


Best way to attach Shelf Brackets on a Drywall for hanging Light Fixture without using Stud? I'm looking to hang a 4ft T5 fixture for an aquarium to a pair of shelf brackets on a wall. I'm looking to mount it without using a stud if possible, maybe using a toggle bolt or drywall anchor.
I'm wondering if toggle bolts/drywall anchor would be strong enough to hold shelf mount + light fixture. Ideally I would want each one of the shelf brackets to be able to comfortably hold the fixture, in case of failure on either side.
Total weight will be about 20lb, but the fixture may be adjusted up and down on a weekly basis, so it may put more strain on the wall. The light will hang close to the end of the shelf mount, if that matters.
I'm trying to avoid using a stud because:

Studs are not located where the aquarium will be placed. (Not much flexibility for the location)
I live in a rented apartment where the contract states I cannot drill into any wood. This seems to be for doors, etc but I want to err on the side of caution. Our building manager recently passed away and the interim building manager is hesitant to give any conclusive answer.

I'm not much of a handyman, so let me know if I'm missing out any important detail and I'll add them on ASAP. Thanks in advance!
Links to items below. A better suggestion for a shelf bracket that's 14+ inches would be appreciated too. Going for a relatively sleek look if possible, but safety over looks.
T5 Fixture - Shelf Bracket 1   - Shelf Bracket 2

That's a quick drawing of a shelf bracket set against a wall.

This is basically a bent lever, so if the weight of your light exerts a force F1 on the end of the bracket, which extends a distance A from the wall, then the bracket will pull on the anchor with a force F2 = F1 * A/B
TL/DR: pick a bracket with a long vertical part (B) to minimize the pulling force applied on the anchor.
Since both your brackets have B shorter than A, the pulling force on the anchor will be higher than the weight of the light fixture. Therefore, you might as well stick the anchor in the drywall ceiling instead, and forget about the shelf bracket. In this case the anchor will only bear the weight of the fixture.


Fused switches...where do they go? As I know some systems and terminology are different worldwide, I will start off the post by saying I live in the UK.

There are a number of fused switches in my flat.  Some of them I know what they do - washing machine, oven etc, but others I have no idea. I've tried switching them off and on, but nothing happens. How do I go about figuring what they're for, if anything??

In the UK Fused connection units (FCU for short) are used for a number of applications including but not limited to.

Providing over-current protection for a spur that serves multiple sockets or is wired in smaller cable than is allowed for non-fused spurs.
Allowing a spur to be switched on and off.
Providing over-current protection and/or switching for fixed appliances.
Providing over-current protection for lighting that is fed from a socket circuit.

The first thing I would do is look to see if the FCU has an open flex outlet hole (either on the front or on one of the edges). If so then it probably means that the FCU used to feed a fixed appliance that is no longer present.

If not then I would look for any equipment, sockets or flex outlets in the vicinity. Especially sockets that are in unusual locations (high up, under a counter etc) and test if those sockets are controlled by the FCU.

If you feel confident in doing so then removing the FCU from the wall (with the power off of course) and looking at what type and size of cable (if any) is connected to the load terminals may give more clues. Looking at the fuse may also give a clue, a 13A fuse likely means sockets or a high power appliance, a 3A or 5A fuse likely means lighting or a low (electrical) power appliance.


How can I reduce the sound of my HVAC condensation drain? I recently had a brand new addition added to our house include a new master bath, plus a new HVAC system.  The unit sits above the bathroom in the attic.  The HVAC installer connected the drain for the AC to one of the sinks in the bathroom.  So the drain basically runs straight down the wall behind the vanity and comes out at the sink drain.  When the AC defrosts there’s a good 2 mins worth of water draining into the sink.  Not a few drops every now and then, but like someone is continuously slowly pouring a huge glass of water out.

How can I reconfigure it to drain silently?  What are my options here?

In theory I could reroute the AC drain pipe to the laundry room, but that would likely require drywall work.

UPDATE: It looks like the refrigerant line is frosted over at the coil, even worse so at the condenser.

The sound is coming from the fall of the condensate into the water standing in the trap. This is a dishwasher sidearm designed to allow high flow and not obstruct a kitchen drain. Some have a hood in the center that directs high flow down the drain. This hood may be causing the condensate to accelerate in the air down to the standing water.

You may be able to cut out the center hood inside the tailpiece. This might allow the condensate to drain down the side of tailpiece rather than fall into the trap.
But if that doesn't work, replace the sidearm tailpiece with a standard tailpiece. Fashion a makeshift sidearm that enters the trap just above the standing water level. You could just drill a hole in the trap and cement in a sidearm just above the level of the standing water.

In any case change the opaque hose to clear so you can observe the flow of condensate.

Note that if you ever have to use a plunger in this lavatory you should pinch off the flexible condensate line (with a shut-off clamp or locking pliers). See Siphon Hose Shut Off Clamp Small Plastic Clamp Fits 7/16 in O.d.tubing Plastic Tubing Mid-range Clamp. There are other designs for a shut-off clamp, one out of metal with a thumbscrew which actuates a bar which compresses the hose.

EDIT Should you decide to drill a hole into the trap above the standing water level you could possibly use a press fit of tubing into the hole. You'd insert a short piece of rigid tubing inside at the end of clear plastic tubing and force that into the hole. If you use silicone grease around the outside, it will make insertion easier and help seal the hole. Petroleum grease would cause deterioration of the PVC over time. Soap would lubricate, but would not promote sealing, but if you didn't have silicone and wanted to see if the sound was reduced to acceptable levels you could use soap. Candle wax would be OK, I think.

Additional EDIT

You could leave the sidearm tailpiece in place and cap off the sidearm. Then redirect the flow to go into the trap. drill into the trap above the waterline. If you would drill from the side, you'd be able to do this without disconnecting anything. The new transparent condensate drain line could be smaller in diameter and more flexible than the existing one.

More EDITING

You may be able to fix the sound without any surgery or drilling the trap. In this solution you would use a small enough clear flexible hose that it could be inserted in the sidearm and pushed down so the end of the hose was just above the standing water in the trap. This would enable you to try this idea without modifying the trap or even disconnecting the trap. This would partially obstruct the drain, but it's worth a try.


How do I replace the LED bulb in this ceiling light? I'm moving out of my flat next week and yesterday (!). This ceiling light went on the blink.
I've managed to get it out of the ceiling but now I'm stuck. It won't come out any further and I've tried turning the silver bezel with no luck, the glass doesn't move either.
Beginning to suspect the entire thing is an 'integrated fixture'. Online research says these things should last 20,000 hours...but the flat is only 5 years old.
Edit: I am in the UK.
2nd Edit: to be clear, I don't want to replace the entire fixture if I can avoid it, just the LED bulb which is housed in the fixture (I am assuming that is what is faulty, it is flickering so I know there is power). Problem is I don't know how to get the bulb out of the housing. The silver bezel doesn't appear to rotate (under reasonable force). There is a pane of glass about 1 inch below the bulb and flush with the bezel which doesn't appear to rotate either. Also, I can't find any switches, latches or knobs on the black part of the housing which will cause the front part to open and let me get at the bulb.
Finally, the top of the black part of the fixture appears to have some sort of protuberances which prevent it from being pulled out of the ceiling. I am baffled as to how they got it through the hole, to be frank.
I was hoping that someone would be familiar with this sort of fixture and could point me to the solution. I am nervous about applying larger amounts of force to try and remove the bezel. I don't want to break anything at this stage given I am moving out next week (and COVID lockdown means it will be difficult to find someone to repair it).

How do you change a flat-faced PAR light bulb?  Do not remove bezels.  Rotate the light bulb by its face.
How do you grip the face of a PAR?  With a suction cup.  They make suction cups on sticks for expressly this purpose.  That is why the face of the light bulb is smooth and has all the Fresnel lensing on the inside.