Can i run power to my workshop using an open existing 30amp breaker? I have a detached workshop 100 feet from my house that I want to run power to. I need help determining if an existing 30a circuit will work, and what gauge wiring to use for the 100 foot run.

Details

The previous owner of my house had a large air compressor on the corner of the house outside. To power this he had a double slot 30a breaker and 10/2 wire run to a cutoff box outside the house. This location is ideal for running power to my workshop 100 feet away, only one minor 35 degree turn is needed  a few feet from the workshop.

In the workshop I think i want two circuits, one 20a to power three outlets for saws and various items on my workbench. The second circuit could be only 10a, i plan on using it to run two exterior LED lights, and an interior LED flood light over my workbench.  LEDs are pretty efficient, so I think 10a is enough.

I plan on running 3/4" underground conduit in an 18 inch deep trench (code in my area) and installing an 8 slot 125a sub panel in the workshop to house the 10a and 20a circuits.

My questions are:

Can i use the existing 30a double circuit with 10/2 wiring, and extend off that to run to my workshop?
Is 10/2 wiring the proper gauge to run about 106' from the cutoff to my new sub panel?
The existing 30a circuit uses a 10/2 wire, (1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground). Can that be run to a sub panel? Other subpanel install i have seen look like they use a line with 2 hot wires, 1 neutral, 1 ground.
Does the subpanel need a grounding rod? If so what gauge copper line is needed?

My goal is to do the majority if not all of this work myself, especially the conduit and running the wire. I use extension cords today and it's getting a little old. Especially tired of my chop saw not getting up to full power and speed.

You can put in a sub you need 4 wires ground , neutral and your 2 Hots. Since the shop is detached you will need to have a ground rod and #6 wire is normal for you his , I would consider running a larger feeder wire than #10 but if only running 1 saw and your lighting #10 could work. Even though you have the wiring protected at the main panel with a 30 amp breaker your sub can have a total of more than 30 amps if you add the breakers. For example if all single pole breakers you may have 80 amps if you total all the breaker values. The total load is the important thing here as we usually have a safety factor and only use 80% of the circuit capacity. In fact most homes that I check are running at 25% of their main breaker or less.  So yes you can but I would go bigger, I have never been asked to reduce the size of a panel but many times I have gone back and upsized the service. At a minimum put in larger conduit so you can upsize later. Added
I was realizing that you did say 2 with ground as I earlier mentioned you will need 4 wire to the sub since you will need to add a neutral if in conduit back to the panel this or a new 4 wire run at the largest size you can afford, for example I just put a sub in for a small heat pump it needed a 20 amp circuit , I put in #6 and a small sub, now I have plenty of power to add lighting to my round pen and even a hot tub over there or whatever I might need hope the additional info helps.


Electrical breaker panel I have a new compressor.  It is 15 amp 240 volt.
I have an old Sylvania panel.  What are make and model
options?

"Sylvania" had a couple of different types of breaker panel systems during their forray into that business. One of them was called "Zinsco", the other was "Bryant" panel and breaker system. The Bryant version was eventually taken over by Eaton / Cutler hammer and is now called their "BR" Series (BR for Bryant). Zinsco breakers were / are a disaster waiting to happen and in the opinions of most people, should be ripped out and replaced as they had a tendency to not work and/or catch on fire. Zinsco as a stand-alone company went bankrupt ages ago because of this and Sylvania was unable to rescue them, so they too got out of the business. There are some aftermarket companies selling redesigned versions of the Zinsco breakers, but before wasting money on them, check to make sure your homeowner's insurance policy doesn't have a rider saying that they will not cover any losses from failures of Zinsco (and Federal Pacific Stab-lok) breakers. Some do, and in some jurisdictions you cannot make any alterations or repairs to these panels, you must rip and replace.


GE 230/208 zoneline AC/heater unit I have a GE zoneline AC/heater unit 230/208.  going on a double pole 30 amp breaker. is 10-3 to small should go 8-3

If you look at the top right hand part of the label in your picture it shows that there are three different heat strips that go into this unit. The largest requires a 30A breaker for protection, but to be able to answer your question you need to contact the seller and see if they have the information on which heat strip is actually installed, or you can contact GE Appliances and see if the serial or model number can tell you what size the heat strip is.


Framing Oops? Advice? So, in this DIY basement finishing project of mine, I've learned more than I ever thought I could know but I've been able to correct many simple mistakes so far. Here's my latest, I have basically just finished up with the framing for my basement following 99% of the builders plans that were left when they built this home two years ago. Here is my latest dilemma: the plans call for a 28" door into the bathroom. I was going over all of my work, and noticed for whatever reason, I framed that rough opening for a 32" door. Meaning the rough opening right now is 34". I suppose I could install a 30" door and would be able to cover up the 2", but if I want to install the original 28" door, what's the best way to go about closing in these additional 4"? Sorry if there is rambling on this post, but I've heard good things about this site so I figured I'd look for advice here. Thank you!

As the frame is still "rough" (whatever you mean precisely), I will assume that the basic framing is there but not the finishing wood.

So, add another 2" stud on each side then finish with the wood and extend the wall surface as necessary. Use a strong glue and screws so they never move.


Open concept kitchen For a 26ft outside load bearing wall i am opening up with 2 26ft lvl, Will I need a support column in the middle or can i just do the support columns on both ends. I  have enlarged my kitchen. Now I need to remove the existing outside load bearing wall for the open floor plan.

Removing an outside load bearing wall is serious, it will be worth the few hundred dollars to ask the opinion of a structural engineer. They will be able to calculate the loads and give you a stamp of approval. I take it you're doing this without pulling any permits.


Traditional Recessed Lights or the New "clip" LED Panels? I'm finishing my basement (exposed ceiling, will be putting in roxul safensound) and I have a dilemma. Home Depot just released these new 4" puck/panel lights with integrated LED driver. I'm considering using them as they throw out decent light and are dimmable and IC rated. I threw one up last night for testing and think it's alright.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.illume-ultraslim-4-inches-recessed-round-led-panel-light.1000826915.html

Should I go with these or traditional can (halo) type installation? They are so new that I couldn't find many reviews online regarding these. I did find that the integrated driver junction box had very little space to work in, especially connecting lights in series. How would I rough wire my basement if I was using these and pass inspection?

thanks so much.

Eric

update: As per request, I'm attaching the photos I took when I was at HD.

full disclosure here.  you may be looking at a product that is similar looking but fundamentally different than what i think it is.

what you are looking at is a bulkhead light for furniture only.  meant to be used inside a cabinet box or some other structure that is classed in the NBC as "furniture".  even though many places sell these, you cannot legally use these for potlighting where they are submerged into a drywall ceiling, even I have seen these installed so many times in the wrong way.  its disturbing.  you cannot just cut a hole and clip these into the hole.  I have worked on multiple different residences where these have caught fire outright or been smouldering when they were turned off finally.

1)  there is no way to connect to the unit in a way that makes the connection compliant with the OEC.  the connections have to be in a metal enclosure, and these don't come with it. I have seen every type of disturbingly mis-thought arrangement with these things.

2)  the fire code requires that any penetration into the rooms fire barrier (the drywall ceiling) must be in an appropriately fire rated enclosure.  since these have a power supply board either onboard or in a little separate module (with a molex connector usually), that part also has to be installed in an approved enclosure.

3)  even if you want to do all your connections in an approved rework pot or some other device, they are a weird diameter that doesn't match any pots that I have ever seen.

4)  ESA will not pass these in any installation I have ever seen, and I have had inspectors tell me that ESA is still working on getting the legislative clout to have them banned outright, so that they can't be sold at all in Canada without the aforementioned warnings.  just remember that you can run electrical cable through a drain line, but its not legal.  caveat emptor.

do yourself a favour and get led refit assemblies from cree or greenlite.  I buy them by the skid from greenlite for about $15 ea.  they are not that much more if you buy just a case of them.  they have a 5 year warranty, honoured by a Canadian company, and they are bombproof, commercial grade lights.

http://www.greenlite.ca/en/lights/1895-led-10w-dimmable-retrofit-kit-4-.html


How to add wireless capabilities to a doorbell button? My parents have a wired 8V doorbell with a button next to the front door. In some weeks they'll have a small gate approx 10 meter from the front door which will be locked most of the time. People would need to ring the doorbell at the gate when they want to get in.

I was wondering if it's possible to add a wireless button at the gate that can trigger the already existing button at the door, which will ring the bell.
I am aware that I could just buy a wireless doorbell with two buttons and be done with it, but my parents don't want a new doorbell (sound).

I'm thinking about some sort of small receiver that I could solder into the door button which gets triggered by the gate button.
However, when I google for wireless doorbell buttons I only get full systems as results.

So, is this idea possible to execute? I can solder and have some experience with electronics.

Here is my suggestion of what you can do.

Go to good old eBay and purchase a kit that looks like this:

You can find these for very reasonable prices using a search string like "wireless remote control".

The fob is battery operated and activates a relay on the receiver board when the buttons are pressed. The particular model shown comes with a nice looking wall mountable plastic enclosure to cover the circuit board. (Do not mount the plastic box outside however).

Connecting into the existing doorbell is simple. Just access the wire pair between the door bell and the push button and splice in a new pair that will connect to the relay of the receiver box at the NO (normally open) and COM (common) contact points. This connection will allow the activated relay to act as a parallel button with the existing button with no modifications to the existing button.

The relay receiver box requires a 12VDC source to operate. This can be supplied from a surplus AC wall adapter that you could also purchase on eBay or visit your local GoodWill store where you can find a huge assortment of adapters. If you chose to mount the receiver in an attic or crawl space you could find an electrical junction box and mount an outlet cover plate on it to get a convenient place to plug in your 12V adapter.

You could mount the dongle out on the gate directly (the dongles I've used had a sealed inner liner inside the case that keeps moisture out of the inside electronics). What may be preferable is to modify the dongle with a wire pair soldered across one of the button contacts and then run those wires over to a more conventional style of doorbell button that you would mount on the gate. The hacked dongle could then be enclosed in a plastic hobby box that is sealed and then mounted to the exterior in an unobtrusive area while at the same time the plastic box letting the wireless RF signal come through the box and make its way to the relay receiver board. You will occasionally have to replace the dongle battery but they seem to last a year or more with moderate use.

I've used almost identical kits to replace my very old non-functional garage door openers with the relay module wired across the manual open/close buttons that are inside the garage. The dongle is then easily carried around or kept in the automobile.


Can I relocate my electric water heater under a basement window? I am currently making floor plans for my finished basement in Ohio. I had a pipe near a frost free spigot rupture two years ago but that was because of a faulty washer. Is relocating the water heater under a window a problem? Would the pipes be more susceptible to freezing near the glass of the window?  Would I need to make sure I had heat from the furnace warming that utility/storage area?

Is relocating the water heater under a window a problem?

Not unless you need to get to that window for some reason such as egress as previously mentioned.

  Would the pipes be more susceptible to freezing near the glass of the window?

Yes. Since glass has a much lower insulative rating than just about anything else.

  Would I need to make sure I had heat from the furnace warming that utility/storage area?

How often is the water flowing in those pipes? In a full basement the temperature shouldn't drop much below 50°F in the dead of winter since most of the basement is below ground. However pipes close to outside walls (or windows) risk freezing in winter. Their risk of freezing goes up, as the amount and frequency of water flow goes down.

So, if you want to locate the water heater under that window and you don't need to use the window, make sure you block off and insulate the window, and insulate the pipes (especially the cold). If you heat the space that will preclude the insulation but may cost you more in the long run. Ultimately, doing both would ensure sleeping comfortable on cold nights without worrying about frozen broken pipes.

Good luck and Happy Turkey Day!


Microwave micro switches The wires connecting to the normally closed switch have a short circuit across them, which is causing the switch to stay closed all the time! The clock works, but when you try to cook something the fuse blows. What could be causing the short?

Typical microwave ovens will have multiple micro switches that are designed to provide safe use of the unit. Safe use translates to making sure the door is closed before the unit is able to produce the microwave energy.

The safety feature is normally designed so that the multiple switches have to sequence on/off properly when the when the microwave door is opened and closed. If the switch sequencing fails (broken mechanism, misaligned switches or user attempted defeat of safety feature) the wiring is designed to place a short across the AC power line in the microwave downwind from the fuse. The result is that the fuse blows and prevents operation of the oven in the unsafe mode.

In your case the problem is likely to be one of the other switches has failed or the interlock mechanism that triggers these switches is broken or misaligned.

You may want to reference this older question and additional links therein:

Microwave door interlock switch keeps failing

Pay particular attention to comments regarding OEM replacement switch costs versus buying switches from an electronics supplier.


Does the NEC permit brazing for connections to ground electrodes? I need to connect several copper-clad ground rods together with AWG 6 solid copper wire for lightning protection, and as part of the electrical service grounding. I also need to connect some 2.5" copper strap to this system.

Is brazing with an oxy-MAPP gas torch and bronze-copper brazing alloy allowed for these connections? Or perhaps a high silver alloy like Harris Stay-Silv 15? Seems more accessible than exothermic welding, and more durable and effective than mechanical clamps (especially for underground connections). But I've read contradictory information -- can someone clarify with a direct citation of the NEC or similar standard?

Actually 35 some odd years ago we approached the Airport and the FAA with the same question and they had no problem with it, and sent out a memo that it was ok and met miltary spec. In my mind Cadweld is just another method of brazing but AHJ may have a problem with it if it isn't familiar with what everyone else is doing. Their argument is based around the fact that everyone else is doing Cadwell it works so that's what we want and to be fair that's not a bad argument.

I know I keep beating the same drum but if you have the time I would submit it as a question to the IAEI (the international association of electrical inspectors). They publish answers every month and if you can get them to buy off on it. It would be awful hard for an inspector to go against his own association.


Adding whole-house surge protection to main panel I'm looking to install a Schneider surge protector at the main breaker, likely this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CONA1OQ/

The key things in the instructions which I'm trying to resolve:

Install it as close to the top (main feed) of the panel as possible
Use an empty 20A 240V breaker
In some jurisdictions (I'm in FL) you can piggyback it onto a used breaker by wiring it in the same hole as the existing wiring, but otherwise, you can consider adding a new breaker.

My panel looks like this:

So, my questions:

The breakers at the top are 60A, will it matter if I use one of these?
If I do, can I piggyback it in with the wires in that 60A breaker?
It looks like there's a spare 30A breaker near the bottom.  Does that look right?  If so, will it matter that it's not 20A, and also that it's not closer to the feed?
Is adding a new breaker at the bottom feasible?

Closeup of that empty breaker and the current space at the bottom:

Background:

I have an older house which doesn't have grounding throughout, and I'm wanting to put some surge protection in.  I've read mixed info on whether a ground is required for surge protection at each socket, and in the end decided it's just going to be easier to do it at the main breaker.

First I would like to extend my sympathy for you having a ZINSCO Panel. It is without question the worst panel ever manufactured except for a Federal Panel. However I must say that it has kept many an electrician employed on the replacement of these panels. The breakers have a tendency to weaken and spread over time and that causes arcing and overheating on the bus basically destroying the panel. I would recommend replacement at you earliest convenience.

Now on to your problem. The surge arrestor is designed to be installed on a 20A/2P breaker. If you try and connect it to a larger breaker you are not protecting the Surge arrester circuit small as it may be. In Commercial installations we are required to install in line fuses if we are installing on a larger breaker.

Tapping on to another breaker is allowed but only if that lug is designed to accept two conductors. The only two residential breakers that allow this that I know of are Sq D QO style and Cutler Hammer CH style and definitely not ZINSCO. So you will have to pigtail the conductors of the Surge Arrester to another circuit, then connect it to the breaker.

Mounting the Arrester anywhere on the panel after the Main doesn't have a profound effect on the Arresters use.

Hope this helps.


How can I close and seal an abandoned downspout opening? I need to relocate the downspout indicated in the picture below. How do I seal the opening that will be left after I relocate it ? (I will post a separate question about how to redo the slope of the gutters)
The intent here is to discharge the water on my asphalt driveway (the city wants us to disconnect our downspouts from the main drain of the house-they have capacity issues)

Here is the link to the related post I need to change the slope of my gutters. What do I need to know for this?

Update: I ended up connecting the downspout next to the opposite corner on the side visible in the picture, so there will be just one 90 there no matter which way you come
The downspout is attached to the wall on the face that is opposite to the one where it was located. I went with this option because I could not bend the downspout near the corner (too rigid). The side that I used already had the slope required for this.

I have covered over holes similar to this using thin aluminum sheet (and copper on copper gutters) bent to shape to fit the inside of the gutter and then pop riveted in place (after applying a little low modulus silicone sealant around the hole on the inside and along the outer edges of the repair section to stop water going in between.

It does of course squeeze out some sealant during the riveting process so you might need to use a paintable sealant if you're painting the guttering outside. The ones I've done have not been visible from the ground, luckily enough.

It's also possible to put the repair sheet on the outside of the guttering if you're careful, which may look neater to the eye.


Are electrical subpanels safe in the bedroom? If not, how do you correct it, or can it be moved without making too much work?

It should be safe as long as you maintain the required minimum distances to flammable materials and don't obstruct access to the panel. That means you can't cover the panel or have it near any wall hangings, curtains, bedding, etc.

You also must keep access to it, which means it shouldn't be behind furniture or inaccessible for some other reason.

As for moving it, that would be a lot of work. It would require rewiring all the circuits that go to that panel, and also rerunning the cable that runs from the subpanel back to your main service panel.


How can I heat a hole in my pond efficiently in the winter without using a pond heater? I'd like to heat my pond to create a hole in the ice during the winter to help a few goldfish survive. The fish are not expensive but I'm trying to save them. The pond is about 50 gallons, about 12 inches deep at the most. Pond is a commercial stiff liner that is kidney-shaped.
I've seen the pond heaters use a lot of energy, 1500 watts or more.
I have an aquarium heater and I might try that but those can be 1000 watts or more. But I'm concerned it will not survive a 100% duty cycle in mid winter.
I'll be using 120vac to heat the pond. Glow plugs seem to all use 12vdc so that's not a great option but I can convert 120vac to 12vdc.

Is there a more efficient way to turn electricity into heat to just keep an open hole in the ice in the pond? I am familiar with basic electronics and make LED lights as a hobby.

Thank you.

The only way to be "more efficient" than a resistive heater is to use a heat pump, and the upfront cost will probably make that a non-starter. Resistive heat is 100% efficient, a heat pump can be 300% efficient. Either way, you are fighting the weather and it takes a lot of energy.

Getting a big horse watering trough (or, given the size of your pond, a small watering trough, or an actual aquarium) and moving the fish into the basement (or perhaps living room, etc. with the aquarium option) for the winter will be far less costly than melting ice all winter.


Hot water flow is slow from 3 L/3KW instant geyser (hot water heater) Yesterday we installed a 3 liter instant water heater which uses 3 KW. After the install, hot water is coming through the tap, albeit very slowly. The cold water is coming fast. Our geyser was installed by an electrician who told us that instant geysers do not require pressure. How can I get the hot water to flow quickly?

30°C temp raise (10°C to 40°C) for 1L/min requires about 2,1kW of power. So with a 3kW POU you can't expect a big flow. An 'adequate' shower consists in about 6L/min. These are the numbers. Especially if main water is cold, instant POU are not enough, better to install a under-sink tanked heater (10L), it delivers much better flow even at higher temperatures.


painting latex over oil based prep work Will using a deglosser then Kilz2 before painting be enough? (latex over oil based for indoor trim and doors)

Or is it absolutely necessary to sand and TSP? or oil based Kilz or bonding primer??

The guy at the paint counter said the primer already in my paint will be enough to paint over oil-based paint, but I think he is bonkers. If he's not crazy, please let me know because I'd love to save the work and money!

you can use the liquid sand, deglosser, by the time you rub the de-glosser over all the surfaces it will remove any and all of the gloss, grease, dirt whatever you want, then when you put on a primer are paint , do a little and wait until it dries and see if it will scratch off with your fingernail and if it doesn't your good to go


can i use an inline exhaust to vent a kitchen and bathroom? I have 2 bathrooms and a kitchen that are currently unvented.  I would like to install an inline exhaust fan to service all three.  I will be putting the exhaust fan just inside a gable that will have an exhaust port to the outside.  Are there any issues with having a kitchen and bathroom share exhaust ducting?  They will all have dampers at the intake vent.  See picture for diagram.  I have already calcuated the CFM needed for the kitchen which will be about 360 CFM and will be getting an appropriate fan.  Are there any issues, safety or otherwise, with the sharing of the ductwork?  Grease buildup?

International Mechanical Code 2012

  Chapter 4 Ventilation

  Section 401 General

  401.1 Scope.
  This chapter shall govern the ventilation of spaces within a building intended to be occupied. Mechanical exhaust systems, including exhaust systems serving clothes dryers and cooking appliances; hazardous exhaust systems; dust, stock and refuse conveyor systems; subslab soil exhaust systems; smoke control systems; energy recovery ventilation systems and other systems specified in Section 502 shall comply with Chapter 5.

  Chapter 5 Exhaust Systems

  Section 505 Domestic Kitchen Exhaust Equipment

  505.1 Domestic systems.
  Where domestic range hoods and domestic appliances equipped with downdraft exhaust are located within dwelling units, such hoods and appliances shall discharge to the outdoors through sheet metal ducts constructed of galvanized steel, stainless steel, aluminum or copper. Such ducts shall have smooth inner walls, shall be air tight, shall be equipped with a backdraft damper, and shall be independent of all other exhaust systems.

Chapter 4 says you cannot use the same ducting for ventilation, as you do for your range exhaust.  Chapter 5 is quite explicit in what materials should be used for the range exhaust ducting, and also says that the ducting cannot be shared.  If you're using the ventilation ducting between two or more spaces, you'll have to be sure the fan and ducting are both adequate to move the amount of air required.  you'll also have to insure there is an adequate supply of makeup air.

NOTE: Local codes may vary. Contact your local government for all applicable codes.


Control individual bulbs in a 6-can dimmer series This is a complicated question, and maybe there is no way to do it, BUT...
I currently have a 6-can series dimmer in my basement (home theater) aligned in 3 pairs.  I would like to be able to control pairs of cans individually.  For instance, when watching a movie, I would like to be able to completely turn off the bulbs in the first pair nearest to the screen, while allowing the middle pair immediately above my seating position to be dimmed to say 5-10%, and the last pair behind my seating position to be completely off. There are times though that I would want all the bulbs completely on.  I bought 6 dim-able smart bulbs and an Echo Dot thinking I could replace the current bulbs with these, set the dimmer switch to be completely on all the time, and configure the Echo to be able to do what I just described. However, it seems my Lutron dimmer switch won't stay in full mode with these bulbs, so I put back the old bulbs.

Does anyone know how I might accomplish what I'm trying to do?  Can I just replace the dimmer switch with a normal switch to turn all lights on/off and then use my smart bulbs and Echo to control the lighting? If so, is there anything special I have to do in the wiring to change over from dimmer to normal switch?  Is there such a thing as a smart dimmer switch that would allow me to control "zones" of lights in a single series of cans, somehow?

I know this is probably an oddball request, but am hoping someone out there would have a decent solution to my desire.

Thanks!

When the smart bulbs say "dimmable", what they mean is you can dim them via the smart control system built into the bulb.  They do not mean you can put them downline of a dimmer.  They especially do not mean you can do both at once!

This is something we see a lot of, people getting a bunch of random lighting-control parts and expecting it all to just "automagically" work together.   Nope.  One control system at a time.

If it's not the only light in the room, I would advise bypassing the old dimmer entirely and just hardwire always-hot to the bulb sockets. Otherwise, yank it out and replace it with a plain switch, but expect weirdness if you try to control the lights both with the WeMo and the plain switch.


Tracing TV cable path in wall I have a weak signal at the TV cable that the cable company thinks is the source cable for the condo, but they are not sure. I would like to trace the path of this cable in the wall to see if there is a faulty splitter higher upstream or if someone put a nail through the cable upstream. What would I use to do this?

Pick up a middle of the road tone generator and probe kit from a company you've heard of. No need to buy the most expensive model you can find, it will likely have features you'll never use.

I've used this one Gardner Bender Wire-Tracker Wire Tracer, which I purchased from Home Depot for ~$40.00.

It's not the best model on the market, but it worked very well for me. It was sensitive enough to accurately trace cables through both walls, ceilings and floors, and was able to attach to a variety of cables.

This model allows you to connect the device to a variety of cables including RJ-11, RJ-45, and coaxial. It also has alligator clips, which allow you to connect it to electrical and other wires.

Make sure the power is off before connecting the tone generator. Some models can work on hot lines, but it's still safer to kill the power.


What are pop-rivet aluminium security bars vulnerable to? Our landlord is replacing our windows. They've proposed moving from:

wooden frame
steel security bars
screwed into frame

to:

metal frame
aluminium security bars
pop rivets

Assume we leave our windows open and a burglar attempts to break in (I appreciate that any bars are themselves a deterrent). Will a burglar have any easier time with the new windows than the old windows? Put another way, what attacks are pop-rivet aluminium security bars vulnerable to that screwed-in steel bars aren't?

what attacks are aluminium security bars vulnerable to that steel bars aren't?

Aluminium is a lot softer than steel and is quicker to cut through using a hacksaw.
There are hardened grades of steel that considerably increase its resistance to cutting compared to "plain" steel.
The same diameter bar in aluminium is much less strong than steel and so more vulnerable to bending, stretching and shearing.
Aluminium is a fairly reactive metal but your security bars are probably not going to be attacked chemically by a would-be intruder.


Tiny bulges on wallcoverings made of paper and not vlies/vinyl I bought several rolls of rather expensive wallcoverings made of paper covered with acryl. The wall was already prepared with several layers of different kinds of pop and putty with primer. (Trying to translate pop/putty/primer from Russian into English took a lot of effort and I am still not sure if it's correct.) The prepared wall generally looked smooth to the eye or touch. But after the workers hanged the wallcovering on the wall they appeared covered with tiny bulges all over. They were not visible when the wallcoverings were wet. But when they became dry the bulges appeared. They are very small in size, so tiny that I can't see them from about 1 meter distance. They also don't show up on the photos from my phone unless a bring it very closely to the wall and try to find a good angle. They look like tiny specks of dust trapped under the cover. It's almost like my wall has acne and it saddens me greatly.
Here is photo:

The photo shows only several of them but in reality there are a lot. They look rather ugly if you come closer to the wall and look.
The workers claim that because they are made of thin paper and not vlies or vinyl putting them up without these is impossible because all random dust is visible. Workers experienced with wallcoverings in Russia all say that I need to always buy vlies or vinyl and never paper because otherwise high quality is not possible. My question is if it is possible to hang them better without these annoying things? Who is to blame here? Lack of skill or the wallcoverings of paper are indeed not good in general? And why did they appear at all? Is it dust, glue or uneven wall?

putting them up without these is impossible because all random dust is visible

This is false. A wall can be made very nearly perfectly smooth and all but the tiniest of foreign materials can be removed. It is all about the preparation. Wallpaper has been a standard wallcovering for many years and not all jobs have "acne".
Often, the person paying for the job is just not prepared to pay for what near-perfection costs. Other times, they pay for near-perfection but the contractor is not capable of providing that. Other times, neither party even discusses what their idea of perfection is and expectations for what good looks like are not aligned.
The wallpaper hanging craft is as much art as science, and professional paperhangers employ esoteric methods that most people do not have in their repertoire. If your workers were not part of your local paperhangers' guild or trade union, I would bet they are not wallpaper specialists.


How many LED pot lights per circuit? How many LED pot lights can I put on a single amp circuit?

Some details:

15A circuit is capable of 1800 watts, if I calculate for 80% load that is 1440 watts
Circuit is dedicated to just the lighting
Ontario electrical code says max of 12 receptacles or lights on a circuit
Plan to use ultra thin LED pot lights (not cans)
For arguments sake, lets say each light consumes 15w (most likely lower)
Theoretically I can safely power 96 of these lights ( I need a max of 26 )

If I am using the ultra thin LED lights, instead of cans, can I get away with more than 12 of them on a single circuit? My thought process: since they are contained units and not cans, they couldn't be overloaded by user negligence by putting in bulbs that draw more watts, since you can't change the bulbs in these.

I found a bit more information and thought I would update this. The code has changed and I believe specifically section 8-304 of the most recent code has been amended for situations like this. The limit is 12, unless you are installing devices that have a known load. In the case of a LED light which is hardwired in, or a smoke alarm, you can put as many of these devices on the circuit providing you don't exceed the 80% load. This applies as long as you have no points on the circuit (such as receptacles) which would be an unknown load (since you don't know what someone is going to plugin). The moment you add a receptacle the limit drops back to 12. Hope this helps!


Are rubber couplings allowed for drain stack in Ontario? I need to modify my drain stack somewhat. I want turn a T in the stack to the back wall to make space in the wall.
To do this, I need to cut the drain stack and, obviously, reconnect it after I turn the T. But since there is’t enough movement to put in a solid connector, I was looking into using the rubber Fernco connector. I’m having troubles determining if this meets code.
Here is a picture. I’ll be cutting the stack above and below the T to rotate it to the back. The intention is to use the Fernco rubber connectors to reattach the pipes. Eventually this will be behind a wall.
Ok, so my question is, in Ontario Canada, do you know if it meets code to put in the Fernco rubber connectors in a vertical drain stack.

To learn whether a no-hub coupler is allowed, call your local inspection office. A quick description of the project should make the application fairly clear and you'll have your answer.
It may be a moot question, though. I'd be doing something like this:

Cut below the tee and above the existing coupler above the tee and the reducer. Also cut off the small pipe that comes off the tee below its coupler. It's wise to eliminate joints you don't need for reliability, etc.
Slide a repair coupling onto the small upper stub.
Rebuild your intersection as you like, fitting the mate to the upper stub closely to it. You may be able to flex the upper stub aside to get the rest together. If not, see below.
Mark equal distances above and below the stub joint so you can visually center the repair coupling.
Apply cement and spin the repair coupling down into place with at least a full turn once on the cement.

Dry-fit everything first. If you find that you really can't flex the  upper stub to the side enough to make this plan work, put two repair couplings in that run, with a short pipe between. The last step will be to drop in that short pipe and cement the repair couplings.
Look, Ma! No rubber parts!


Why does hot air from my fan heater stop after 4 to 7 seconds? Product: Challenge fan heater: model E9907R-N -- 230-240V -- 50 Hz -- 2750-3000W.

While off, something fell through the grid.
I opened the fan heater to remove it.
It now doesn't blow hot air (setting 1 or 2) for more then 4/7 seconds.
Cold air is fine.

It seems to me that the thermostat function is playing up but I'm not an electrician, the warranty is gone, I cannot afford a new one and according to GOT: "Winter is coming"

I've attached 1 photo as I'm not allowed to post more than 2 links.

I've circled what seems to be the thermostat (1) and where the trigger to stop the fan is (2). If the trigger is opened the fan doesn't work but when closed it does. Nothing is/has burned.

Here is #1 that I thought would be a kind of thermostat or resistance.

If something had burned I would have understood.
I've 'only' moved an object out of the way. It still works for cold air and also starts blowing hot air for 4 to 7 seconds until the trigger 'click' (sound) open. Then I have to wait (2 min approx) for the thermostat (non-damaged) to cool down (I guess), the click sound happens again and the trigger is closed and it's ready to go again for a few seconds. Turning the thermostat button does not change anything.

#2 is not a thermostat.  It is a thermal protection safety device, and the usual culprit in cheap Cheese heaters.  I can trip if the heater is failing and the protective device is behaving correctly, or the device has failed.

I would test it by wiring any 240V lamp, such as a small neon light(available as a component) between its terminals (parallel with it). It will act as a fault light, in normal conditions it should not light.

Don't even think of running without it.  It is an important safety device.  However you may be able to get markings off it and find a replacement on electronic component web sites in the neighborhood of 1-2 quid plus shipping.

This is a cheap heater and it should be expected to fail after a year or two.  If you can't afford cheap, buy quality.


Troubleshooting Four Fluorescent Light Fixtures In my office, I have four fluorescent T-8 4'/4 lamp surface mount fixtures. All four are on the same three-way switch. I just replaced 3 of the four fixtures. Two of the new fixtures adjacent to each other (same location opposite sides of the high part of the ceiling) do not work.  The other two that work are on opposite sides of the office over both exterior doors. I used a non-contact tester and both non-working lights have a hot wire.  Since the other two fixtures work, does this mean I have two separate neutrals?  Any ideas on troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

Try removing the tubes that are not working and carefully replacing them to ensure good contact.  On some fixtures neither tube will light up if one tube in not getting good contact.


Can I use liquid floor leveler on a previously tiled wood bathroom floor where I could not get up all of the thin set This is a 8 x 5 bathroom floor on the second level. The wood subfloor seems to be in good condition, no movement, solid.  One section all of the old thin set that came up very nicely. The rest of it was a bear and I could not get it up at all whatsoever and seemed to possibly have something like self leveler over the thinset. We already primed it with the intent of putting floor leveler on it but am having second thoughts. I believe the largest variance from the lowest part to the highest part maybe a quarter inch.  we realize that the floor leveler will be pretty thick in some areas. Is there a reason this is not recommended? We intend on putting down a heat mat, thinset finishing with large 18 x 36 ceramic floor tiles.  Thank you.

1/4” is not a problem with all the self leveling compounds I have used, self leveling compounds work best in a large area if you get them close with a wide trowel, I usually mark the edges or use a laser get it in the ballpark and it dose it’s job.


Fluorescent lamp does not rotate in socket I need to replace two fluorescent lamps in my bathroom and neither of them would rotate in their sockets. I can twist them maybe 10 degrees or so but after that they completely stop moving.
It's the first time I'm changing such lamps so I'm not entirely sure how much force I should be applying but from watching videos online I feel like it should not require much force, and I got to the point where I'm applying as much torque as I can, grabbing to the metal ends of the bulb. So I'm wondering whether I'm missing some «unlock» step.
I can see in the gap between the bulb and the socket that the pins are currently vertical (90 degrees to what I need to take them out) and there are plastic half-circles that seem to be holding the bulbs in place (and prevent them to be rotated I guess). The cabinet is designed in a way that only allows a good grip on one side of the bulb but not on the other (see the lower lamp — enough place for a finger below, but none above since the two lamps are meeting there)

My only guess at the moment would be bending the holders outwards and forcing the bulbs out this way, but I'd rather avoid it for the sake of the rent deposit.

That type of lamp holder comes in two variants - push or twist. The technique for one cannot be used on the other.
The push type have sprung and caps, you push sideways on the tube which enables one end to just lift out. No twisting.
Yours are the twist type; 90° rotation, so if you can't twist, then trying to force the end caps away will just break them. Once you've achieved the correct alignment, they should almost fall out under their own weight.
There are usually two main types of twist. I don't know their true names, so let's call them 'open' & 'insert'. The 'open' type use just the grip of the outer edge on the pins to maintain tension as you twist. The 'insert' type have an inner sleeve which must be rotated with the tube pins to release. This insert, over time tends to get a bit 'burned' - not dangerously, but enough to make them quite abrasive & grip the outer white end caps. It can feel like you're trying to slide two pieces of sandpaper over each other, very creaky & 'grippy'.
With the power off, you could try getting a bit of WD40 into the gap between the white outer & the black insert.  Let capillary action pull it around the back. (WD 40 is not conductive, but wipe it away as best you can afterwards.) After half an hour or so, see if you can then twist it out - note it should be possible twist either way, so give both ways a go. Very few are one-way only, so if one way seems to go better than the other, then favour it. Only once it's properly loosened will you be able to tell if it really was only designed to twist one way.
If you absolutely cannot turn it, you can break the tubes out - wrap full length in cling-film (saran-wrap) as best you can & tap the centre, hard. Then you can just pull the broken centre towards you & free both ends. Be careful, of course. That might give you a better chance at freeing up the mechanism with the tubes out of the way.
Contrasting the apparent simplicity of their design, these can be remarkably obstinate fittings to have to deal with, with little tolerance for brute force methods. Cajoling is better in the long run, but you might not be first to approach this task. If in the past, 6 different people have had 6 conflicting methods of extracting & replacing tubes, the mechanism can be really easy to completely hash up & effectively 'lock you out'. Once the tube is out you will have a better chance of seeing what state the mechanism is in.
If you absolutely have to replace the fittings, get sprung caps instead. They're far less trouble overall. Better still, swap for LED fittings. (For sake of completeness - you can get direct replacement LED tubes, but you must disconnect the ballast or take the starter out before using them.)


How to repair chipped glass My tabletop glass corner was chipped about 1 square cm in area. How can i reattach this chip to glass so there is no trace of breakage.

I am looking for a cheaper and best approach.

I agree that replacing with tempered glass is your best option. But if you want cheap, there are other options.

I don't know about regular super glue or Krazy glue. It would probably work fine. Loctite makes a super glue specifically for glass.

I used to work for an art glass/leaded glass company 20 years ago and we used a glue that was cured by UV light. It was nice because you could easily wipe up any excess before you set the glue. You can use a cheap UV light ($15 or less) to cure the glue. It is slower, but you can also use sunlight. It cures absolutely clear and is permanent. The bond is super strong. We used this glue to attach glass "jewels" and flat beveled glass to glass windows that we made.  Once it was cured, there was no removing it. You couldn't break the bevel off with a hammer.  I don't remember the name of it, but there are cheap UV cured glues available online and probably Lowe's/Home Depot.


Got too aggressive with steel wool on pavers, how can I make this look right? A friend of mine suggested using steel wool to remove stains from paver stones. This turned out to be a pretty dumb thing to do. Many of the pavers have been obviously smoothed out and the color is slighly lighter (the same color, but lighter) than the surface color. The result is that many of the stones have a splotchiness to them with a big splotch right where I applied the steel wool.

I'm thinking now that the damage is done, I should just steel-wool the whole stone to make the noticable stones at least consistent. But I'm really nervous about applying steel wool again and making things worse. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

Without seeing the "damage" I can't say for sure, but your best bet would be to try and even things out a bit, and accept that you aren't going to get a perfect finish.

Use a finer grade steel wool and try and blend the patches so you don't have a sharp transition between the colours.

You might find that leaving it over a winter will even out the colouration anyway.


Insert drill bit into a corded drill Do one insert the drill bit fully into the corded drill before securing the bit or can there be any allowances between the drill bit and the corded drill?

(Suppose that the distance between the opening of the drill and the end of the drill hole is 8 cm. There is a drill bit that is 10 cm. If the 10 cm drill bit is fully insert into the drill, one can only see 2 cm of the drill bit. So, do one insert the drill bit fully or there is a recommended range of length that the drill bit must be visible to the eye when it is inserted into the drill?)

8cm seems rather large but certainly the insertion depth can be a significant proportion of the length of a small drill bit.

There are a few factors to consider. First think of a really small drill bit - 2mm for example. if this is sticking out a long way, it won't take much sideways force to bend the bit and, as tool steel is quite brittle, possibly snap it. It will also wander if you're starting a hole.

Now think of a reduced shank drill bit (such as a 20mm drill that fits a normal 13mm chuck. This has a shoulder meaning the maximum insertion depth is about 2cm, and demonstrates that the back of the drill bit doesn't need to be up against the chuck fixing screw.

For an in between case you can choose - I sometimes start with the bit fully in until I've got a good start (to avoid wander) and then put it a bit further out. With masonry bits used with hammer action you may want the bit to sit right into the chuck. While the whole chuck exerts the hammer force on the bit, a small insertion depth can cause the chuck to work loose especially with hammer. Some of my masonry bits have flats and a shoulder so don't sit all the way in, but still insert to a decent depth.

This all applies to cordless drills as well, but I find that with a keyed chuck I can get away with a little less drill bit in the chuck.


Why is there a musty smell from my HVAC system even after coil cleaning? I am having trouble getting rid of a smell in my AC (installed 2016), 2 visits by an HVAC professional have resulted in no luck.
Problem:
There is a musty smell, from all vents, as the AC is turning on and just after it turns off. While the air is at its peak cold, there is no smell.

We have a variable speed fan, which we were told could/should run all the time (on low) to keep air circulating. We like to leave this on in the summer (off in the winter).
If we turn the fan off, smell isn't noticeable, as smell is worst when fan runs after AC.
First visit by HVAC professional, we were told everything was fine, probably dirty air ducts.

After this first visit, I did some investigating, I carefully removed the outer panel over the AC evaporator coils. When I did this I could instantly smell the smell coming off of the coils as soon as the compressor came on, again no smell while its running, but smell comes back as the compressor turns off and remains for a few minutes.
HVAC guy came back, decided evaporator coils needed to be cleaned, sprayed them, and left. Smell got better, especially while you could smell the cleaner, but came back after a few days.
After this, I purchased a can of cleaner and repeated the process, and again the smell came back, but doesn't seem to be as bad.

Do I need to just keep re-applying the cleaner until its gone? The coils look clean (the HVAC guy removed the inner panel to see the inside, and its pretty clean.
In the last 4 years, we have run the fan on low 24/7 during the summer and haven't had this issue.
I poured water/clorox down the pan/drain, but it looked pretty clean.

I don't think its dirty ducts, but am willing to pay to get them cleaned, but want some more advice before spending money on something that has questionable effect.
Thanks

Musty smells in the evaporator coils are common. You really need a flaming cleaner and the coils need to be cleaned 2-3 times to get everything out.
I use a product called Nu-brite  from My-Calgon it is a non acidic foaming coil cleaner, make sure your drain is working prior to use of it will make a mess. The foam pushes the dirt out.
What you are smelling is dust and grime when the system runs it collects moisture now that dust and grime are the “smelly socks” breeding ground you don’t smell it mid cycle because it is frozen at the start and end when the coils ate thawing you get the full odor.
1 cleaning usually helps 2 may do it but 3 has fixed even the worst (smokers) coils I have encountered with a clear water rinse after each cleaning.
Cool cleaning is suggested at least 1 time per year and with heavy use 2x.
Always have a filter in your system or this can start in just a few hours with dusty conditions.
Whatever you use don’t use an acid based cleaner acids damage the aluminum fins and shorten the coil life.


What is the best way to convert a garage to livable space? Garage Conversion

We have an attached garage that has finished walls with no insulation, angled roof with no insulation and exposed rafters, and a new roll up uninsulated garage door. It has a side door that leads to the backyard. Our central AC just died, and we are replacing, but considering running new duct out to the garage so our large family can use the space. It seems expensive. The temperature here is extreme in summer and winter, 106 and below 40. I just don't think a window unit will make it livable if we leave the door open from the main house to the garage. What's a mom to do? Thanks

An uninsulated space will be a huge energy waster. Expensive yes, you would need to have the walls insulated, the roof structure insulated and finished, as well as the door rollup door insulated. If you plan to never use it as a garage again, the door can be removed and a wall put in its place. Some people even build a portion of the garage into a shed in the front, to keep the door. Other things to consider are the floor, cold in winter, hot in summer. But there are lots of things that can be e done to convert a garage. Depends on how much money you want to spend, how much you want to convert, if you plan to ever use it as a garage again...


Installing spotlights but hole in ceiling is too big I bought 4 of these bad boys which I want to attach to my concrete ceiling (Oriel Baril LED Adjustable Spotlight). They are pretty lightweight.

Mounting cup diameter is 80mm

However, the mounting cup internal bracket screw hole distance is just 46mm

Here's the snag: The ceiling hole diameter is 60mm and too wide, so I'm missing some ceiling to screw into. With this width I can only get a single screw in.

What are my options?

There should be a couple mounting holes in the junction box in the ceiling, but they look like they're covered in plaster. I'm not sure how there was a light here before (if there was) but anyway, you'll have to figure out where the mounting holes are.

Here's what the box looks like without all the plaster in the way:

You can probably look or reach into the box (with the power off!) to find them, then either drill or chip out the plaster so you can get at the mounting holes.

Next, screw the mounting strap into the box. You'll have to remove it from the light fixture first. Here's one with the same style mounting strap (but different style of fixture):

It looks to me the sizing is correct, but if it's not, you can get adapters to allow different spacings to be used.


What is the most common length for stair nosing to overhang? Can any builders tell me how far their stair nosing overhangs? I've read that 1.25" is common.

I'm having my stairs rebuilt and the overhang will affect the location of the bottom stair. Also, do you include the overhang amount when measuring the run of the stair? My stairs are going to be 8.1" tall due to lack of headroom and if the run is too long they will not be within the inch of (2X rise)+run=25. I want to make sure I'm measuring the run correctly so they are comfortable.

1" to 1-1/4" is fairly standard regardless of location, but it's mostly personal preference. You don't normally consider the nosing when working out rise and run, as they typically only apply to the stringers (which have no nosing).

Even if the nosing was considered, the rise and run don't change since you'd measure from one nose to the next.


Whats the cheapest but strongest 4x8 I can use while only supporting the ends lengthwise of the board? What I'm trying to do is basically make a shelf that is somewhat of a 2nd story in my rented self storage unit. I've done this before by bridging tall furniture w/strong boards. My unit is 12'x19'. I wanted to put a shelf (6ft tall metal restaurant or gondola shelving) on side of each storage in back against the wall & bridge them with something strong enough that I don't need to support the middle, should I need to park my car in there. I believe 4x8 is the largest piece you can get locally cheap. I hate any kind of pressed or particle board, because of how it falls apart the 1st time its moved or gets wet. I know there's an array of 4x8 made up of all types of materials I know nothing about and while researching them, I came across this website. What would be the strongest but cheapest 4x8 including what width I could get for this?  it would probally have a couple hundred pounds at very most, but also hold me (140#) up there organizing or walking to other side.
If anyone has any other ideas that are cheap/free, quick/simple& sturdy Im totally open to them. I thought a few  2x4s 10-12ft in length w/several cheap "shelving" boards perpendicular; possibly somn similar w/metal? i have drill & driver, but Im trying to keep it cheap and simple
thanks for taking the time to read this & offer me any suggestions.

There is no magic flat material that will have that kind of strength, short of some sort of honeycombed steel or carbon fiber, and I'm sure you don't have the budget for that.
Maybe you could use scaffolding planks, but again, budget.
You'll need to frame that out with joists
And probably the cheapest will be conventional wood framing.
Since the critical dimension will be across the long length, you frame it out with 8 foot long "2x6" dimensional lumber oriented vertically for span strength.  I would follow the 16" spacing rule (though it will really be 15.5" center-center spacing), so that will be four 2x6 joists.   Two hug the edges of the plywood and two are spaced evenly between.
Now, we need something to prevent the joists from leaning sideways.  So some more 2x6 spacers go between the joists, wherever convenient.
Now, myself, I would screw the plywood to the joists with deck screws.  About every foot should suffice. You can nail it if you really want to, but you'll have an easier time disassembling the wood for reuse if you use screws.
The whole package will be 5.25" + the thickness of the plywood. So 3/4" plywood = 6" total height.


How do you remove a stuck glass door knob? I have an antique glass door knob I am trying to remove.
I have removed the screw at the base of the door knob and have tried to unscrew the door knob.  It is stuck.  I have tried spraying WD40 to loosen it up, but that didn't work.  Don't care if I have to break the door knob.  It is being replaced.
Any help would be great.
Thank you./

It is definitely a threaded connection. The threaded rod (spindle) looks something like this:

Now that the set screw is out, lean on it (especially if you don’t care if it breaks).

Image source


Insulating the roof rafters I have a heater/AC UNIT installed in my attic and in winter the heat from the unit melts the snow turning into ice and creates a nitemareso I want to put insulation in the rafter to insulate the roof from the heater. Will this work? Any tips on how far down to go? Is it ok for rafter insulation to be right down to ceiling insulation or should I leave a gap?

What you are basically considering - converting a vented attic to conditioned space - is generally a good idea for energy efficiency and preventing ice dams when you have ductwork or HVAC equipment in an attic. However, it is not a trivial task, and done incorrectly, can rot your roof sheathing.

Insulating between the rafters is the riskiest approach - it will significantly hinder the drying of any moisture that reaches the sheathing, allowing it to rot.

A better approach is to attach rigid insulation to the underside of the rafters, leaving the space between the rafters as vented channels. 2" of rigid foam, with the seams taped, can make an effective "hut" inside your current attic space to keep the warmth from your home and your furnace from reaching the roof, preventing ice dams, and improving the efficiency of your HVAC equipment in winter and summer.


How can I get the supply line brass valve seat on Pfister tub/shower mixer valve to stop leaking? The hot water supply line brass seat fitting leaks where it enters into the concave section of the Pfister mixer valve for a tub/shower faucet.  I have cleaned both surfaces with emery cloth and wire brush, tried wrapping with teflon tape, also tried pipe thread compound, but it still leaks.  The faucet is about 20 years old.  Looks like it has been dripping on and off for some time.  I have pictures of the valve and fitting I can send.  I even heated up and removed sweated male fitting the brass valve seat threads onto and made sure everything was square and resoldered that joint.  I am wondering if there is a tiny crack in the valve seat.  Any ideas?

Don't know about that particular model but I have brass seats as well. I had a leak and carefully replaced washers on both sides properly. Still had a small leak. Replaced both valve seats (only $4 each so why not) even though I knew it was clearly the cold leaking. Checked and double checked and examined seats and washers carefully -- nothing odd. Still leaked. Finally cut some teflon tape lengthwise to match the width of the threads on the seat and wrapped kinda taught 2.5 times around. Put them back in and torqued fairly firm but not overly hard. Leak was fixed.


Alternatives to extension cord over the grass to light a Christmas tree I have a nice little pine tree that sits about 30 feet from the corner of my house.  Ideally, I think it would look nice to throw some Christmas lights on it and spread some holiday cheer.

I hesitate to just lay an extension cord over the grass.  My main fear is someone cutting across the yard and tripping over it.

Any alternatives to safely light that tree?

This is what we sell quite a bit of, more at this time of year than other times.

Some people call them rocket post, or landscape post.

This is the post...

This gives you an idea of what you can add to it...

Click here to get the color flyer

Basically if you have a receptacle outside in a convenient location you can remove the weather proof cover and put this on...

...run conduit from one of the 1/2 or 3/4 threaded hubs (your choice when you buy) and run PVC to the post.  At the post end you just end the PVC run with an elbow to come through the ground.  You keep the top of the post blanked off or put almost any landscape light you want on top of it.  It has a 1 gang opening one 2 sides and you can put in a low voltage divider.  That way if you put the post in a place that you want a TV, Telephone, computer, speakers...you can use the post with a separate PVC.

Remember you will have a local code to follow and turn off all power when working on it.  Our local code says Schedule 80 PVC or ridged galvanized conduit wrapped in 50 mil tape that breaks the ground, 18 inches deep, GFCI circuit and these are just what I'm highlighting.  Depending on code you can use UF underground feeder (like 12/2 W/GRD UF)

Good Luck!


What is the style of this arched window? What is the style of this arched window:

Is this just a modern design, or is it a specific historic style?

Technically called, “Segmental Arch”. (A segment of a full 180 degree arch.)

Slang: “flat arch”.

Here’s some info:   http://csmh.pbworks.com/w/page/7309552/610%20-%20Chinese%20invent%20the%20segmented%20arch%20bridge


Does PEX require home runs? I've been told that PEX requires home runs to a manifold (or star topology, to borrow from networking) to maintain the same flow rate/pressure as copper. Anyone else heard this?

PEX uses fittings that have a smaller inside diameter than the tubing, unlike copper where the fitting ID is typically the same as the tubing.  That smaller ID is going to reduce your flow rate vs. copper if you have a lot of fittings between the source and your fixture, as you might in a non-home-run situation where fixtures are teed off a main trunk.  In a properly installed system, this will be countered somewhat by using larger diameter tubing for that trunk line.

So that's the theory, but in practice I can tell you that I've now lived in two houses that were plumbed in non-home-run PEX and never had problems with reduced flow in the remote fixtures.  Both of these houses used 3/4" PEX for the trunk and 1/2" PEX for the branch lines.


How to add dimmer to "one switch controls another switch" configuration In my dining room, I currently have a switch configuration that functions as follows:

Switch 1: when toggled, turns light on/off
Switch 2: when toggled, turns Switch 1 on/off

Can I have 2 dimmers or 1?  If so, would I use 3-way or 1-way?  Currently, both switches have 4 wires running to them, each.

Note:  House was built in 2013.

Lutron makes 3 way switches for this set up that allow dimming.  I just installed one set in my basement.  One dimmer will be the base and the other talks to it.  Here is what I have - Lutron Dimmer Set.  With 4 wires running everywhere you should be set to install these.


How can I properly drain heatpump condensate? I have a heat pump in the attic That drains to the ground outside two floors below. I naively added a hose fitting so I could redirect the water where I wanted it, slightly up hill.
This created a trap in the line and my overflow pan filled. My HVAC soon shut off (2 days later) and I had to drain the overflow pan by hand. Removing the hose from the end of the drain and emptying the overflow pan allowed the System to start up again.

My question is: If I put a Y in the down pipe above my new intended outflow so that there is always a way for air to get out, will that cause any problems?

Diagram in text below:

HVAC Unit
|
|
Y    Site of possible Y
|
|
C  hose coupling     -------   End of Hose above coupling
L-------------------/

Adding a wye will provide a new location for water to drain. I would make sure your drain has no “traps” as a simple air bubble can cause backup. If you really want to drain someplace else there are condensate pumps. I do not recommend these when natural drainage is available because the pump will fail and then you are back with an overflowing pan. When I use pumps I add water sensor tape to set an alarm so I know about the problem before it ruins the Sheetrock/plaster.


Paint on stranded copper wire twisted together with a wire nut -- dangerous? Putting new light fixtures into an old house. Wires are stranded copper with a little paint on some of the stranded copper part.
Normally I'd cut it off and expose a little more wire, out of an abundance of caution. The thing is, this is an extremely short wire coming directly out of a massive bundle of wires... it would be next to impossible to strip off a little more insulation and twist my wire nut on.
Is a little paint a hazard for two stranded copper wires twisted together in a wire nut? There is plenty of copper-to-copper contact within the wire nut... but some of it will have paint in the way. Can this cause sparks or heat? (Will be behind an AFCI breaker.) Or will the electricity just flow through the low-resistance areas where the copper is touching directly?

Paint can act as an insulator so is it a hazard not normally. Wire nuts cut into the wire slightly so the nut itself makes contact if nothing else.
Best practice would be to use a bit of sandpaper or scotch brite to clean the paint off and provide a better connection.
In motors the red varnish is really thin. A 3m rep showed how well scotchlocks (there wire nut brand) did in creating good contact with varnished wires (sales pitch) but in my experience all the brands do about the same as long as they have the metal.
So scrape the paint for best results, tighten the nut until the wires twist below the nut according to the brand you like instructions.


What is this part called? I'm not sure this is the right place to be asking this but I'll give it a try. I have this bit of hardware from a pair of helping hands that I'd like to find more of. I'd describe it as a rod fastener of some sort. Not having any luck with those search terms however. Perhaps someone here has the proper name. Thanks in advance.

I'd call it a cross-bored stud with retaining thumbscrew, but there's nothing official about that.

As has been stated, it's probably a proprietary part and you likely won't find a drop-in replacement. You could fabricate one from a standard stud if you have machine tools available.


Can I hook up a subpanel to an existing 220 line that isn't in use? When our house was built, they put a 220 line in for future pool equipment. The pool equipment ended up going on the other side of the house, so this line just terminates in a box unused. I want to hook up a sub panel off this line to run a few circuits for a couple things in the backyard - outdoor lighting, sprinklers, and lights/fans/receptacles for our outdoor kitchen. The 220 line is 8/3 with ground, coming off 2 bridged 50 amp breakers in the main. I'm looking at a 125amp panel with 6 spaces (I know more spaces is always better, but I currently plan on using only 2 or 3 spaces,  so I'll have a few open spots if I come up with any future needs for a circuit). Can I simply hook up this 220 line to a sub panel?

Yes you could go with your plan but most of us will strongly suggest a larger panel. As it is for outside circuits everything will require GFCI protection. If the box or panel location is outside the panel will need to be rated 3R (for outdoor use).
But yes you can do as you have planned.
If the panel is not located on the house an additional grounding electrode will be needed.


How can I prevent interior French Drain from further eroding soil under garage slab? I have a home with a block wall foundation and adjacent garage (built on a slab) on the left side facing the house. The house sits on a grade with right side to left side drop of  3/4" to 1" per foot. In November of 2015, we had our crawl space encapsulated and installed an interior french drain (perforated corrugated pipe laid on gravel wrapped in landscape fabric with a sump pump).

The drain works great in bringing water down the front and back walls due to the natural slope, but we are having issues bringing it from the back of the house to the front on the garage side where the sump pump is located.  Four months after it was installed, we discovered water was standing against the block wall foundation in the middle of the wall adjacent to the slab.

The encapsulation company surmised the original trench running along that wall did not have enough drop so they re-dug it. Both times they "eye balled" the slope rather than using any type of measuring device.

In the past year, the garage slab has cracked, dry wall cracks have appeared in multiple places in the garage, and the garage entry to house (which is built on the slab) noticeably dropped. All this seems to suggest the drain is affecting the garage slab (the home is 34 years old and the soil is not expansive).

Since 90% of the water entering the crawl space travels down the back wall,  I suggested replacing the corrugated pipe running from the back wall to the front (sump location) with a solid PVC pipe, which will prevent water loss and facilitate achieving a consistent drop. My theory is that water is flowing out of the corrugated drain wherever there are low spots (since trench was "eye balled") and that water is compromising either the block or slab foundation.  The encapsulation company agreed, but wants to put a 20 mil barrier between the drain and foundation which will extend to the bottom of the drain. They also want to leave the corrugated drainage pipe in place to assist in absorbing water and directing it to the sump pump (the solid pipe would be installed over the corrugated pipe). I am going to pay them to do this, but they are doing it for their cost. Does this sound like a reasonable solution?  If not, what would you suggest? Any insight you can provide will be appreciated.  Thanks!

Using perf pipe allows water out just as it allows water in. The water stain half way along the garage wall could be from water backing up and out of the perf pipe. I like the solid pipe idea for "transporting" water, if you're not trying to "gather" excess water. Here we can buy one-half perf and one-half solid pipe. We install it with the solid side down and when the water table gets high enough to reach the mid-point of the pipe, it flows into the pipe. We just install the mid-point of the pipe at the level we want to keep the water table at.

How about moving the sump away from the garage to the other end of the house? Then, when it starts pumping, it won't erode (suck) all the soil from the surrounding area out the drain. Also, maybe a sump pump that moves water slower or comes on more frequently so as not to impact the drainage system so severely each time. (It could cut down on the washing of the "fines" (soil or sand) out of the french drain and from under garage slab.)

If you don't have a perf pipe along side the garage, you'll run the risk of water seeping into the garage.

Also, look at separating your water. Remove all your downspouts from this collector system and use it strictly for subterranean de-watering. Rain tends to come quickly and thus flood the system...perhaps backing up and out of the perf pipe.

Erosion is caused by water "washing" across a surface. If the material under your garage slab is dirt (or sand), then it'd be easy to erode. We use crushed rock. Can crushed rock be placed back under the slab, or is that too difficult?

Last thought: hopefully your installers used washed round rock (or crushed rock WITHOUT the fines) for your french drain. The key here is without the fines. For material to wash away from under the garage slab, it has to have a place to go. If it's confined then it won't wash away. However, if the french drain was installed using fines, then the fines in the french drain would wash into the perf pipe allowing the material under the slab to "sluff" away. Dumb!!! Are these guys licensed to do this kind of work? At least you have filter fabric encapsulating the entire french drain, right?

I'm not sure what the solid sheeting between the garage and house is suppose to do.


Is it safe to use a wedge expansion bolt in concrete blocks? I want to hang a Rogue P-4 pull-up bar from a wall. The wall is concrete block with .5" of strapping on it, and 1" drywall over that. The pull-up bar is made with 1" steel tube. Concrete block walls are 1.5" wide on average, so I'm at 4" of depth and then I put on the bolt. So I'm looking at 5" long wedge compression bolts.
The pull-up bar has 1/2" holes in it. However, my sense is that using 1/2" bolts will require perfect alignment. According to websites, 3/8" concrete expansion bolts have pull-out strength of roughly 1000 lbs. Only the top four will have pull-out loads (the arrangement is two holes on the top of each of the two brackets and one hole on the bottom). So that's 4000 pounds. A 300 pound person jumping up and grabbing on the bar may pull 2g, so that's 600 pounds of force, and double it for the 30" cantilever, so 3/8" concrete expansion bolts should be fine.
Here is my concern: On this website for the bolks I'm thinking of using, the website says "Do not use in brick or blocks." So my question is this: are all wedge expansion bolts contraindicated for all concrete blocks, or just the ones that I'm looking at? If they are all contraindicated, then how do I mount the thing?
EDIT: I am in a townhouse and we do not know if there is a single row of blocks between the units or two. We also do not know if they are filled or not. There is good but not perfect sound isolation between the townhouses and this is an adjoining wall.  Here is a picture of what it looks like:

I also didnt find any of the expansion bolt manufactures that could recommend using an expansion bolt in anything but solid concrete stating specifically "Not for use in cement block". They do give rating specifics for such things as 'Maximum Force" before pullout: 2000 lbs for a 1/2" x 4 1/2" zinc plated bolt. I scanned some of the questions and answers on Amazon. Some stated they had attached it to block with stable results. I'd favor the recommendations of the bolt company to not rely on it securing your pull-up bar. If you decide to use the bolts locate them in the mortar joints.
If you attach (2) 2x6 vertically (one for each side) from the floor to
higher then the top bracket hole using expansion bolts spaced at 16 inches on center; it should be strong enough to than bolt you brackets  to the 2x6 (unless you kipp!).
Other ideas involve drilling 5/8" anchor holes for 1/2" all-thread glued with epoxy glue. Using anchor epoxy would hold.


Vertical cracks on newly poured foundation The builder just poured concrete for the foundation of my house. One week later I saw a vertical crack on the back side of the slab. The crack is thin but it goes vertical and also horizontal. It is about 2 feet long. I am so worry that the crack will get bigger later on. Please see attached pictures and give advises.

Sounds like he back filled the wall too soon, it will crack every time.  And leak.


Mini Pottery kiln with NEMA 5-20 plug that requires 120volts, 16amps, 1920 watts, and 20amp breaker I have a small electric pottery kiln with NEMA 5-20 plug that uses and requires 120volts, 16amps, 1920 watts, and 20amp breaker to use in my apartment.
I checked the breaker box in my apartment, and It says that 2 breaker switches for a kitchen and another room are 20amps and the rest are 15amps. The receptacles (outlets) in the whole apartment including the kitchen are NEMA 5-15 plug receptacles. I am hoping to use the kiln in the kitchen by plugging in only kiln plug into an outlet while baking ceramics for several hours. The 20amp circuit in the kitchen are on 5 receptacles.
My question is that What changes do I need to make on receptacles to use this kiln safely. I thought about buying a Plug Adapter 15 Amp Household Plug to 20 Amp T-Blade Female Outlet Adapter (NEMA 5-15P to 5-15/20R) from the Homedepot but It seems that the adaptor can hold only up to 1875watts (max wattage) and can not hold 1920watts for ceramic  baking. Then, I am thing about replacing one of the kitchen outlet socket with a NEMA 5-20R duplex socket after finding this web page.
https://www.quora.com/Where-can-I-find-a-plug-adaptor-for-the-following-image-inside
I am not even sure that if this works safely either.

I have never done electrical things and I am a little worried about messing up electrical stuff myself  and very concerned about fire hazard. I also do not want to spend money hiring electricians if I don’t need to.
What is the best solution for me to be able use this electric kiln in my apartment safely? Please assist me with your knowledge guys !!

Thank you

Using an "adapter" is out of the question.

Get an outlet tester and make sure all the receptacles work.  If any receptacles don't work, make an effort to repair them, or positvely determine they are not part of a 20A circuit.
Turn off all 20A breakers.
Go back around and find which receptacles have lost power just now.    Mark them "20???".
Inspect every single one of them to assure that all the wires are #12, not #14 size.  #14 will cheerfully fit in a "backstab" hole of a receptacle labled "#14 wire only".  #12 will fit very tightly or not at all.   If you can get a specimen of each, you can just hold them up to compare.
If all the wires on all the "20???" outlets is #12 wire, feel free to change any of them to NEMA 5-20 receptacles.  Remember to check for any broken tabs on the old receptacle.

Feel free to limit this exercise to just one breaker if you know the other won't have plugs where you need them.


Power options for inside cabinet drawer outlet I am looking for a cost effective option to install a 120v outlet or at a minimum, a USB charging hub in a kitchen drawer.
I have about 1.75” clearance behind the drawer. There are devices on the market such as the
Docking Drawer | Blade Duo In-Drawer Charging Outlet
Besides being kind of overpriced, they require a 2” minimum behind the drawer clearance.
My drawer is only 12” deep (albeit very wide and deep). I can install an outlet right behind it facing the other side (it’s an island), and thinking I could wire a low voltage USB hub from there, mounted to the back of the cabinets.
I’d be happy with a safe way to route a single 120v connector to a normal charging hub, with high amperage USB ports.
What other options do I have?

You don't do it with 120V unless you have AHJ approval for your installation.  I can't imagine that happening; there's some argument to be made in NEC 400.7 for flexible cords for equipment which moves, and maybe they'd approve it with armored cable or something... but instead I think the AHJ is going to take one look at this and say "Heck no".
12 volts DC
So what we do is, use 12 volts DC. As long as the entire system is under 55W, we get to play under the easier Class II wiring rules.
So you have a UL-listed 12V DC power supply making up to 55W of 12V DC.
Then we come over to the drawer with, well, I would still use AC mains-grade armored cable, say 12/2, or a UL-listed pantograph arrangement as you see pictured in that product. It needs to be made to flex, though - you can't use in-wall wiring.
How do we get from 12V to USB?  LOL, that's easier to find than eggs.  Every convenience store, gas station, cell phone shop, big-box of any kind, etc. sells 12V USB adapters.  Usually right up by the checkout.
The USB charging hub may already do this for you.
Given the difficulty of getting a UL Listing for a 120V device, and the ease of simply including a commodity "wall-wart" power supply that is already UL-listed, I would expect most USB charging hubs already make a DC transition using a "wall wart" or "power block" of some kind.
They don't even make the wall-wart; they buy it from someone else who already slogged through the difficult UL approval for an AC power device. Their own device proper is an entirely low-voltage creature; and as such it breezed through UL listing since nothing lethal/dangerous needed to be tested for.  If you wondered why every darned electronics product in the whole wide world insists on using those annoying wall-warts, yup, that's why.
So simply buy a device like that, which comes with a wall-wart.  The wall-wart plugs in at an appropriate FIXED location. Then you either splice in the appropriate cabling, or maybe just wrap the supplied small cable in some wire loom (e.g. the spiral stuff) so it doesn't get chewed up by the drawer going in and out.  Run that cable to the moving drawer, and you're all set.


Fill grooves of old wood paneling I have old wood paneling that was painted with semi-gloss paint not too long ago.

We want to fill the grooves and make it look like drywall and smooth.
I found this article.

It seems simple based on what they said: just basically fill with drywall compound. However, I have some doubts on cracking as someone mentioned in the Comment section.

My questions:

If I nail the panel carefully everywhere to prevent movement, would drywall compound crack?
If I use the best non-crack compound, would it work?

I try to avoid using the caulking method as it's a large basement and there are many grooves to fill, plus it will stick out and then I have to use extra mud to fill them. I was thinking about tapes but it's kinda the same thing.

Any thought?

I tend to agree that if the paneling is simply installed over the existing framing that you would be better overall to remove the old paneling and install new drywall. The job to tape and mud the drywall is likely to be on a par with the job of trying to fill and sand the grooves in the old paneling.


GFCI Kitchen Circuit(s) I understand that all wall receptacles (including counters) must be GFCI protected in a kitchen with a combined dining area but how about a separate dining area/room receptacles (separated from kitchen by partition wall including breakfast bar in wall)?

This is how it is currently wired (one circuit from distribution box through dining area [currently GFCI] terminating on one kitchen counter same GFCI circuit). Was this originally done (builder) for convenience/cost (all receptacles on one 20A GFCI circuit for dining room receptacles and including the one 20A kitchen counter) or must the dining area wall receptacles also be GFCI?

This is a 100A service condominium in Montgomery County MD.

This was something the builder just did (I wouldn't even call it convenience/cost, for that matter).

We start with 210.52(B)(1):

  (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry,
  breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling
  unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch
  circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and
  floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all counter-
  top outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for
  refrigeration equipment.

and 210.11(C)(1):

  (1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits. In addition to the
  number of branch circuits required by other parts of this
  section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by
  210.52(B).

Between these two sections, we can establish that the dining room outlets are part of the small-appliance branch circuits, not the general lighting load.

However, 210.8(A) point 6:

  (A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and
  20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in
  210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuit-
  interrupter protection for personnel.

  (6) Kitchens - where the receptacles are installed to
  serve the countertop surfaces

requires only that the receptacles installed to serve the countertop surfaces in the kitchen be GFCI protected.  This means that no other receptacles on the small appliance branch circuits require GFCI protection under the 2014 NEC, regardless if they are located in the kitchen proper or in a separate dining room.


Is it normal to have water left in front loading washing machine after the cycle? I just moved into a new apt, hooked up the washer and decided to do a test run. But I did not realize that the door was not shut tight although I did hear the locking click right before the cycle began. By the time I noticed the water streaming out from the front door, there had already been about half tank of water taken in to the tub, not to mention the flooding on the floor. So I stopped the machine and cleaned up, ran a quick "rinse+spin" cycle, the water in the tub was drained out.

Now, here is the problem: When I started a real load today -- with door shut tight this time, before the machine started taking in water from the hoses, I could hear the sound of water slushing inside. My immediate thought was that there must have been water left from the accident two days ago! The water was not high enough to be visible in the tub but God knows how much still remained under.

I ran this cycle with "no spin" in hopes that the remaining water could be drained out as much as possible. Of course, the clothes were soaking wet after the wash, but I still do not know and cannot tell whether there is still excess amount of water left in the machine under the tub.

Winter is approaching soon (hate to mention it!), I am afraid that if the problem persists, the water left in the machine would freeze. Not just that, I am concerned that the humidity may help grow mold inside the machine.

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or ideas as to what I could possible do to resolve the issue. Thank you all!

First, make sure you don't have a clogged lint filter. On the bottom of the front side, is there a small door where the lint clean out is?

Then, check the drain pipe itself to make sure it's not clogged. Is any water leaving the machine?

Otherwise, sounds like you have a broken or clogged drain valve. This isn't a basic diy project and would involve taking the machine apart. I'd suggest you call a home applicance technician.


Connecting 7200 watt generator to fuse box My 7200 watt generator has two 240 volt outlets. Both are 30 amps. One is a 4 pin plug and the other is a 3 pin plug. I plan on using the cheaper lockout system involving 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker and locking connectors. Just wondering if it is possible to run both circuits to the fuse box. 30 amps are only giving me 3600 watts. Can I double that to use the full potential of the generator? Thanks in advance.

No, one outlet does the job

You're forgetting that the outlet you're talking about is 240V not 120V -- 30A * 240V is indeed 7200W, so you only need the 4 pin outlet (NEMA 14-30) and matching parts (generator-cord and inlet).

(The other outlet might be a NEMA 6-30 for 240V-only loads -- we'd have to see a photo of it to be sure.  Anyway, you don't want to use it for a house hookup because it has no neutral prong, just two hots and a ground.)


What is the recommended Temperature setting for dual zone homes when not at home? Our home is a 2 story house(about 2200sq ft + basement) after reading some posts here I have set 75F on first floor and 77F on second floor which are both comfortable settings for us. But, i'm thinking to save some energy bill during the hours me and my wife are working. So the settings would be around 78F on first and 80F on second floor between 8AM and 4PM. My concern is, would the AC have to work hard at 4PM to bring he temperatures from 78 to 75 and utilize more energy than keeping the temperatures same through out the day? which is preferable? Temperatures around in this area during summer are between 80-100F.

tl;dr Trial-and-error is your best bet. There's no standard answer.

There's really no such thing as "working hard". Efficiency is mostly a matter of minimizing total system runtime needed to keep you comfortable during a given 24-hour period.

Since every home and every HVAC system is different, you have a few considerations:

How quickly your HVAC system can recover X number of degrees
Whether the humidity that accumulates during the day is a concern

A couple tips:

Discontinue cooling up to an hour before you leave, but keep the fan running at least periodically. Your home won't probably start warming up enough to be uncomfortable.
Gradually increase the "away" temperatures until you find that recovery isn't happening in a timely manner or humidity becomes a problem.

Your climate and mine are similar, and I find that I don't need to maintain cooling at all during the day for all but a few days out of the year. Again, keep the fan on a periodic cycle to prevent stagnation and hotspots due to solar gain.


Which material to use for filling those gaps? After removing all the wallpaper and some wooden bars that were nailed at the corner of the walls and ceiling all around the room, I now have space that require to be filled at some points (ceiling - wall corner).

The space is like 3 to 8cm deep. What is the best material to use for filling that type of space?

You can use Great Stuff to fill the gap. It's easy and quick. It might not be the best solution, but it is very cheap. After you use it, then you could joint compute or vinyl spackling to smooth out the joint.


Water pressure in upstairs sink lost after turning off main line to fix shower So yesterday I had to replace the handle on the shower-- and because I couldn't access the valve to the shower, I had to shut off the main valve to the entire house.  I switched out the handle and everything is great.  Except now the same bathroom with said shower has a sink that no longer has any water pressure.  I.e, it just trickles water, both from the hot and cold valves (If I shut off the cold valve, it will trickle if I move it to hot, and it will turn off when I switch it to cold-- and vice versa with hot)

Every other sink, bathtub, shower, everything has the appropriate water pressure.

I'm worried that I broke something, but I have no idea.  I don't see leaks anywhere, nor do I hear any leaks.  House is at 64 so I don't think anything froze?  Anybody have any ideas what could've happened?

Thanks in advance!

When you shut off your main (or any valve really but the main is the big one) and turn it back on you can cause debris or sediment that was trapped somewhere in your plumbing to dislodge.

It seems to me that some debris might have gotten trapped in that faucet's aerator. Remove it and see if the pressure seems fine.

If the pressure seems fine with the aerator removed, clean the aerator.

If there is still low pressure try to close and open the shutoff valve for that faucet (with the aerator still removed) to try to dislodge anything that might have gotten stuck in that valve but chances are it's the aerator.


Locating toilet tank leak: flapper or flush valve or tanks bolts and washers I have a toilet tank that's slowly leaking into the bowl causing it to refill periodically. I can rule out the fill valve having loose grit/obstructions causing it to fill slowly after it should have shut off.
The leak has to be one or more of the following:

flapper
bolts and corresponding rubber gaskets
flush valve gasket/nut

Here's a photograph of the tank:

I don't know if the flapper is leaking or one of the bolts or flush valve gasket. I was pretty sure that I had a waterproof seal on the bolts and flush valve because before I remounted the tank to the bowl I filled the tank with enough water to see if it any of those were leaking. (It leaked a bit at the flush nut before I carefully tightened the flush valve nut a quarter turn beyond hand-tight).
If the problem is with the flapper I probably won't need to pull the tank back off to fix. Otherwise I'm doomed to that again.
I've thought that if I tested the tank by filling with just enough water to cover the bolt heads/portion of flush valve below the flapper, I could see if it leaked. If not, then it would probably be the flapper.
Any other idea to figure out where the leak is without pulling the tank? Putting a dye in the tank won't help because the two bolt connections as well as the flush valve all drain into the bowl flange, so I'd see the leak as color in the bowl in any case.
EDIT: I wanted to add some information and correct some of my misunderstandings in the question I'd posted. Also, I think I have the fix for my case and will try to post a separate solution.
I think the toilet bowl I have is pretty typical. Here's what the tank connects to:

My belief that a leak in either bolt connection would leak into the larger hole and end up in the bowl is incorrect, especially with the gasket covering the flush valve nut. It is the case that correcting a leak from the bolts or the flush valve hole involves removing the tank.
I thought it was being smart when I had tested the tank with its new valves for leaks before reinstalling it on the bowl. What I didn't realize is that I did it wrong. The amount of water I used for the test (just covering the bolt holes) didn't cause enough pressure to test that the flush valve didn't leak. Later, testing with water up to the water line in the tank caused significant leakage around the flush valve.
An additional note is that I'd done a recent overhaul of the tank, both the fill and flush valves (using a kit containing both parts). So the tightening of the flush valve nut was something I'd done recently and not from the previous setup.

If the leak is only from the tank to the bowl, and not on the floor, then the only option of the three you listed that can be the cause is the flapper.
Judging from the photo your flapper can be replaced without any disassembling of the tank.
There are two  flexible tabs on the back of the flapper that go over two fixed pins on the bottom or the  overflow pipe. You can reach down and pull the tabs off of the pins, and reverse the process to install the new one. Very easy.
There are two size's of flappers, 2" and 3". You can shut of the water supply valve and remove your old one and take it to the store to match if you are unsure of the correct size.


Are there any decorative fire-retardant finishes for a structural steel column? I'm having a wall removed in my kitchen and replacing it with a round column.

My Structural Engineer has detailed that we paint it with intumescent paint to give it 1.5 hours fire protection.

My builder informed me that intumescent paint has an unattractive and very lumpy finish.

Can someone suggest a more attractive alternative?

This is a very unusual request. you must have some unique building codes or you are a first floor owner with more floors above you. Normal supporting walls or columns don't have fire ratings in single family residential settings.
   With that said, you may want to look at a steel post support covered with a split round column, or a fab on site square column. The facade is strictly for appearance and the steel post for support.