How level is 'good enough' for a 8x14' shed's gravel foundation? I built a gravel foundation for an 8x14' prebuilt wooden shed. I spent a lot of time addressing drainage and most aspects of the foundation. Now it is finished, I think, but I want more experienced opinions on leveling it.
Here is the shed foundation nearly finished with rough leveling and compacting:

The core of the pad is mostly crusher run which my local quarry had as more sand than stone, meaning it compacted well but may not drain as well. The perimeter has a french drain-style trench filled with #2 stone and much less sand, so drainage should be okay.
The way I leveled it is using a long 1"x8' board and a 2' level. I roughly leveled the subsoil to have a slight grade for drainage, tamped it. Roughly leveled a central 4"-deep pad of crusher run with a slight consistent grade for drainage, tamped it. Then more carefully did iterations of filling edges with #2 stone and topping it all off with another few inches of crusher run. I raked, scraped, tamped, leveled using the board, and repeated, aiming for a completely level surface. Board and level shown below:

I am asking about how to check if it is good enough now. I put the board down with the level in the middle of it, and I checked level in 9 location with the board east-west (16+ft length) and another set of spots north-south (8ft length). In each location the bubble is either balanced, or has only a slight dip on either side (I can pick the low side up 1 inch or less and get the bubble balanced).
I figure the bubble does not need to be perfectly balanced everywhere, it is good enough to be mostly balanced or within an inch of balance in all locations. My reasoning is that the shed will sit on long skids thus distributing its weight and 'averaging out' the slight (0-2 inch max) dips or rises that might remain over the whole area. Also, even if I got it perfectly level at this point, settling may not be perfectly even, so level within an inch seems good.
Is this foundation level enough to receive a shed? If not, what steps should be taken to get it even more level, or what measurements should be made to ensure it is good enough?
The shed will be used for garden tools, as a workshop, and as a small weekend cabin. Most buildings I've lived in are not perfectly level, so being slightly off doesn't seem too troubling to me, but I also have never built or worked in such a small building.

I've built and owned several sheds on similar bases. What you'll find is that the weight of the shed and the vibration of use tends to settle the foundation (floor framing) into the soil a bit, eliminating slight wiggles in the surface.
The key is that you have a good average, and that it's level in both directions. Obviously most of the weight rests on the perimeter, so you want to focus on that. Make sure there aren't any areas that seem weak, like they'll slough out when the shed is set.
Once it's set and has a chance to settle a bit, but before you load it up with human junk, check the floor in both directions. If it's out more than say 1/2" total in either direction (my standard; yours may differ), consider levering it up and making adjustments. That's not as difficult as it may sound if you use adequate levers and suitable fulcrums. Either rake a bit of soil out from under the high side, or fling a bit more under the low side.


square D QO 240V AC @ 30 Amp, 2-pole circuit breaker I am getting 1 volt across 2 poles of square D QOU 240V AC @ 30 Amp, 2-pole circuit breaker and 119/120 volts out of the individual lugs. What is wrong here?

You mention Square D QOU which is not a panel bus circuit breaker.  The QOU parts have lugs on both sides (line & load).  You must have connected both line lugs to the same phase by mistake.
Check your feed configuration.  The problem must be there.


Should I be concerned that the sill plate is not lined up with the foundation? I am in the process of building a one level home in PA. After the formed concrete walls were poured and the framing began, I noticed that on one side of the house that the sill plate was flush with the edge of the foundation wall in the rear, but, by the time the sill plate got to the front it was 2 1/2" away from the edge of the foundation wall. In summary, the sill plate walks from flush with the foundation wall at the rear to 2 1/2" at the front. This happens over about a 50' run.

Any thoughts or concerns would be appreciated. Any recommendations on what sorts of questions to ask when I meet the site supervisor on Monday?

I would be concerned. Have the general contractor figure out who is out of specification and have them fix it. (My guess is that the concrete is to blame, but I'm not there with a measuring tape.)
I strongly suggest that you don't let the house be built out of square. Among other things, it'll cost a bit more at just about every step.


How can I relocate hookups for washer and electric dryer? EDIT: added info and added alternate locations.

Our washer and dryer hookups are located out of reach, 40" behind the appliances. They are mounted on what, in the 1940's, was the exterior side of an exterior wall of a one story house.  What is now the den and laundry room became a carport eventually, then a garage, then a den and laundry room with an attached garage continuing the expansion. At some point, a dormer was built, and the stairs added. I've been here 4 years.

I will be moving them, probably to the left side wall, but possibly under the stairs (adding an 8 or 10" sofit of sorts) or to the wall behind the dryer.   One 110V, one 220V, hot/cold water lines, and drain.  Looking for tips and possible trip-ups.

The washer and dryer and water heater will remain as in the photos.

Here are a couple more pics of what I'm dealing with. The first shows the existing hook ups underneath the stairs.  The second pic shows the (interior) left wall. On the other side of it is our den.

I would exploit it by getting a dryer, or front load washer, which has controls on its front rather than back. Then push the entire unit into the convenient recess. Turn the other unit 90 degrees with its back to the  water heater, and easier transfers too.

Alternatively, they make washer+dryer combo units in the same form factor as a front load washer alone. Really.  Toss in clothes and soap, push buttons, come back 2 hours later and the clothes are clean and dry. Would free up a lot of space in that room.


Three-way switch wiring behaving oddly The hot wire and traveler wire behave oddly in a three-way switch in a 1950s house. The metal box has three wires - red, white and yellow.

The red-color wire measured 116V, so I assumed it's the hot wire. The white and yellow wires measured 4-6V when not connected to anything, so I assumed they are the traveler wires. I connected the red wire to the black common screw, and connected the white and yellow to brass traveler screws.

The switch worked, except that the light turned ON when I flipped the switch OFF and turned OFF when I flipped the switch ON. I measured the voltage on traveler wires - the ON wire fluctuated between 25 and 30V, the OFF wire had 0V. I measured with a regular multimeter, with its black lead grounded to the metal circuit box.

Then I re-connected the white and yellow wires to the opposite brass screws. Now the light worked normally - turned on when I flipped on the switch and turned off when I flipped off the switch.

Can someone help with these three puzzles:

1) Why is the hot wire red instead of white or black?

2) Is white wire really a traveler wire?

2) Why does flipping white and yellow wires to the opposite brass traveler screws change the switch behavior?

As many answers and many more diagrams discuss here, color-coding is absolutely meaningless in 3-way circuits.  The only exceptions are if

someone deliberately marks the wires with colored tape (I use yellow for both travelers, no need to distinguish them from each other) or
the work is in conduit and someone used two oddball colors (I use yellow-yellow) for the travelers.

throws up hands Aww, why not? 3-ways are a morass of senseless color coding and absolute lack of marking.

because that's the way 3-ways work.  Seriously.

And this seems to be a confusion: expecting "up/down" to correspond to "on/off". They won't.  Go get a 2-way switch and hold it in your hand. See where it says "On" and "Off" on the lever?  Now look at a 3-way switch. No markings.
Note that in the above diagram, the left switch is "up for off, down for on".
In the 3-way world, there are only 2 states: the state the light is in; and the other state.  Throwing the switch once changes the state.  That's it.
So if you want "Up" at this 3-way location to be "on", you can swap wires all day (it's actually easier to just flip the switch over).  However this effort will be wasted the moment someone throws the other switch in the 3-way circuit; now this switch will be "upside down" again.
Suppose you flipped the left switch above; then somebody throws the right switch.  Now you have to start over.
That's how 3-ways work.
If you just can't stand it, try looking for a 3-way switch which is a pushbutton instead of a toggle.  Making them toggles like they did really pains my OCD.


Overhead door doesn't close with one sensor not lit The problem I'm having is that one of the sensors near the bottom of door has a green light and the other one doesn't light up. If I hold the button on it will close.

Both sensors will show a light if they're 1) connected correctly, and 2) sending and receiving the beam because they're in alignment. The lights may be different colors. This is normal.

If one is out, first check alignment. There are often wingnut adjusters allowing you to swivel and tilt the sensors. They don't have to be perfectly aligned, but they need to be close.

Then, check wiring for damage and connection. Typically the whites connect to one screw, and the blacks another. The whites may share a screw with the white from the opener button.


What type of drywall tape should I use for a drywall to plaster patch? What would be the best drywall tape for drywall to plaster patch?
The patch is on a non-insulated garage ceiling, so there will be temperature swings from 0 to 100 probably through the year.

I had to patch because of some water damage, the old material is plaster over rocklathe (3/4" total), and new is just a dual layer of 3/8" drywall.

I have setting type compound, but I'm not sure of which tape would hold up better for these circumstances.

I like the mesh tape for this sort of thing - because you can get material through it, and it seems less prone to peel.

The self-adhesive aspect is not all that significant - it's merely holding it (barely) in place until it's embedded in compound. The compound is what actually sticks things together.


What’s the best way to cut the bottom of my door? I need to cut 1/4” off the bottom of my door. really struggling and wondering if the teeth on my saw are too much - seems like 140? Could I use a 50 tooth?
And how did I fix this? Can I move the level/guide 1/16 inch back and start again?
I’m not a carpenter, so keep it in layman’s terms please.

I'm not surprised that tore away from the edge of the work-piece.  Here are some ideas to get a better cut:
Get a fresh finish-cut saw blade.  The blade shown in your picture is well-worn.
Put something beneath the door while cutting it to avoid tear-out.  If you were using a table saw, the table itself would be helping, except this cut is so narrow it would depend on your table saw configuration.  Since you're using a circular saw instead, get a piece of scrap plywood to set the cut area on top of.  Set the saw blade depth so it cuts into the plywood slightly, but not all the way through it.


Type AC cable -- why is it still made/used? Old-style armored cable (Type AC) is still made and widely distributed.  Why is this, given that type MC cable is more versatile (more conductor configurations, more Code-permitted applications) than type AC cable by far, and the new type MCI-A products coming out eliminate any edge AC may have had in termination labor?  I'd have thought type AC would be utterly obsolete now, replaced in all new work and rework by type MC.  Are there applications where AC can be used but MC (especially MCI-A) can't?

(For those who haven't kept up -- MCI-A is a type of MC cable that uses a bonding means consisting of a full sized aluminum ground wire integral with the corrugated, spiral wrapped armor, usually aluminum as well.  It is available through multiple manufacturers -- Encore calls it SmartGround or MC-SG, Atkore/AFC calls it MC-Quik, and Southwire calls it MCAP.)

People could use the older style cable for things like low voltage control lines to industrial machinery. Or in place where the metal is just used as protection for the wiring not as a conductor.  Or maybe in repairing old systems. I;m sure there are a lot more uses other than its original purpose.


Craters by screws where ceiling plaster has broken? I have some craters around screws in the ceiling. The screws themselves are not lose, so I am just wondering if filler will fix this issue. If I remove the flakes around the craters and add filler, specifically this one; https://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-big-hole-ready-mixed-wall-filler-grey-1-2ltr/95289
Will it do the trick?
Thank you very much!

You’re quite correct, a basic filler and sanded smooth once dry will work absolutely fine. There is no underline problem, the plaster has slightly different colours because it’s probably been skimmed at sometime.  This is a very common issue with a quick fix. Good luck!


Door Jamb and Moulding as Load Bearing? Recently I've been working on replacing the moulding around the doors in my home, but I've come across a bit of an oddity with the jamb - It's the same piece of wood as the moulding.
I thought it was odd that it didn't look like the moulding was separate when looking at the inside of the frame, but assumed it was probably just layers upon layers of paint.
So I started by scoring the caulking around the edge of the door moulding and then got a putty knife in. But I still couldn't find any indication of a seam inside. I ended up forcing it. splitting the wood at the bottom and sawing a piece off.
It looks like the jamb and the moulding are one piece and the other side has two grooves in it for the drywall to fit in - so it's kind of in the shape of an E. The diagram below is what I imagine it looks like based on what I can see without pulling it out of the wall. The drywall has shifted out of the slot (but I can't get a good picture of it) so I know that the center part doesn't extend into the wall any further.

I've never seen this before, no one I know has seen this in a ranch style home before, and I can't find anything on the internet about single piece door frames. Now I'm getting a little worried that I shouldn't be pulling the jamb out or that it might be load-bearing.
Wondering if anyone out there has seen this before and might be able to help figure out what is going on?

It’s not structural. It’s just a design we use for “clean lines” without the grooves and notches in the trim, etc.
If you were to remove the entire frame, you’d see that there are shims along the head and jambs. Any structural load can’t be transferred to the jambs if there’s shims in the head, AND the frame can’t be “squared” without the shims.
This design makes the frame look more like hollow metal frames...


What is this "appliance control" power strip? I found the pictured power strip in the cabinet under my kitchen sink. It was mounted to the wall and has an attached wire connected to a metal disk that was mounted to the the cabinet, just under the countertop. The only thing plugged into the power strip was some non-functional under-cabinet lighting whose power cord had been routed through the wall. On the underside of the power strip is a label that says "38AF APPLIANCE CONTROL".
I removed the dead lighting and also pulled out this power strip, along with the attached wire and metal disk. I don't think any of this stuff was serving an important function, but I don't like removing things when I don't even know what they are. Can anyone tell me what this thing is?

A quick search came up with this: (Amazon)
The disk is a touchpad which controls dimming of the lights plugged into the strip.
This took me less than one minute, entering "38AF APPLIANCE CONTROL" into Google. (Actually, I didn't type it, I copied it from your question.) In the future, I'd suggest using a web search before posting.


AC intermittently doesn't cool I have a Lenox system that is AC only (my heat is separate). On occasions, maybe 10-20% of time, it doesn't cool and the fat refrigerant pipe coming out of the air handler going to the condenser outside is warm, whereas it's cold when it does cool. I think there is no refrigerant flow between the inside unit and the compressor when it's not cooling, there is also no water draining out, I took the hose out of the pipe and put it in a bucket to test
I had a technician come over and he confirned the system is properly charged with refrigerant. When he was here was the other 80-90% of the time when it works so I wasn't able to reproduce the issue. It was $150 for his visit to basically tell me everything is fine. To reproduce the issue, I would have to have him stay here until it shows again.
I am trying to get some ideas of what MIGHT be the cause of this happening before I spend another couple hundred dollars to be tdld the same thing.

I would suggest listening to your unit when it is running , not just the fan but the compressor also. Possibly make a recording  I am talking about the outside unit.
When the unit is not cooling try listening and recording again,
The problem could be as easy to fix as an intermittent contactor (a contactor is a high power relay that turns on the compressor) some units have different relays for the fan and compressor so listening is important, the compressor not humming away may indicate it is “sticky” or possibly the starting cap is getting close to failure.
A cap going bad normally causes dimmed lights and hard starting it’s hard to explain the sound but it can take 10-15 seconds when normally it is up to speed in 3-5 seconds.  When the start capacitor fails it may blow the fuse or circuit breaker. Or it may over heat the motor and the mother’s internal thermal overload turns it off until it cools.
If I was called for a intermittent cooling issue I usually check the cap they are a cheap fix and look at the contactor and see if it has been throwing excessive arcs.
Other things like bad valves in the compressor can be the problem but if your technician put a gauge set on it that would be obvious.
One of the last things of the top of my head would be the thermal expansion valve on the evaporator (inside coils) these can stick closed and prevent refrigerant from flowing so the outside unit starts pumps up to shutdown pressure then waits for a cycle restart timer 3-7 minutes on most systems.
Edit:
You might ask your tech if he measured the cap or inspected the contactor. (Both are in the outside unit).
At this time your ears are thallus you’re best troubleshooting tool.
Intermittent problems are hard to find because everything is running when we get there.


Why does water rush through pipes when no water is being used? We live in a house with city water, septic well, water softener and sump pump. We periodically hear a very loud sound of rushing water through pipes in the house. It lasts about 15 - 20 minutes. This happens every few weeks.

What on earth causes this?  We live on 2 acres, there is only the two of us living here. We can hear the sound loudly in the laundry room (probably due to drain area for washer) and it sounds like it is coming down from the attic. We have one furnace in the attic, but it is not always on when this happens. We can also hear it loudly in the exposed pipes in the basement.

Any ideas?

This sounds like the backwash on your water softener.

It should be set to cycle at 1 am or so when you wouldn't hear it, but the clock could have been reset from a power outage. Normally, it will trickle for 20-30 minutes as it brines the resin bed and then it will backwash the resin bed with clean water for 10 mins or so. This water must all be dumped to a drain somewhere, possibly in the laundry standpipe. That's where mine dumps to.

Check your softener settings,and look for a correlation.

Good luck!


Adding custom secondary glazing to existing frames I have deep windows frames like this:

Rather that adding a whole secondary glazing frame on the inside. Could I add a spacer/battening to the inside of the existing frame and second pane of glass? I could hold the glass in place with either more battening or glaziers putty. So if the window has 3 seperate panes, I would do this for each.
Sounds like it would work to me. What are your concerns? Poor insulation, condensation? The spacer will be visible from the outside and make the window slightly smaller but I think I can live with that.

I actually did a similar thing custom plant room I built with 12” wide 4’ tall windows on 3 side (about 20 total). Standard glazing but thought I should make these double pane so I cleaned the inside and added the inside glass well sealed and it looked wonderful, made the room much warmer.
The first year I noticed some slight condensation smiles on the windows, by the 3rd year mold growing between the glass (the frame work was all cedar so a natural inhibitor) I pulled the inside glass on the 4th year and was going to add desiccant blocks to absorb the moisture but in that short time the cedar had rotted out the mold had covered it so it was not obvious the extent of the damage.
I replaced the bottom sill and added a thin copper plate and sealed everything up but left a weep hole. That lasted until a few years ago we decided to remove the room because the package heater had died and it was going to need a new roof.
The bottom spacer between most of the windows was spongy but it was not bad for 25years, make sure to allow moisture to escape and I would suggest a metal sill or covering so it won’t won’t rot out as quickly as my first attempt did.


How to deaden the noise that bounces from cinderblock wall in backyard? I have a very large backyard surrounded by a tall cinderblock wall.  Not only is it HOT in the summer (NM summers) but the noise that bounces around is bad.  Someone walking on the sidewalk next to my home can hear our conversations.  Help?  A coyote fence?  bushes? what can help absorb the noise?

The wall separates two levels.  The top level next to the wall is not irrigated nor maintained.  I leave it to wildlife vegetation and birds.  There are several xeriscaped plants but I have no intention to create a garden of any kind.

About 5 feet below the upper level is the main level where we enjoy the outdoors 8 months out of the year.  I garden and plant flowers and allow my pets to enjoy the outdoors. Again, the wall is hot and noise bounces around.

Thank you for your attention to this matter.  I am looking for inexpensive fixes that I can do myself.

Plant climbing vines at the wall, let them climb and cover. Take note of the "sound walls" around the interstates or beltways around the cities. Many have vines growing over them to aid in the sound deadening. Find what the specie is and go from there.


Two Compact Dryers on a 30 Amp Circuit I have seen the question about having two dryers on the same circuit answered several times. The answer is usually that you should put them on separate circuits. I understand that for traditional dryers.

But what about this scenario? Circuit is 208 volts / 30 amps. The two dryers would be condenser/ventless dryers rated at 2800W each. Seems like the maximum amp draw would be about 13.5 X 2 = 27 amps. In this situation could I simply use splitter like this:

I refer you to NEC Article and Table 210.21(B)(2) which states and shows that a 30A branch circuit supplying two or more cord and plug connected loads shall not exceed 24A. Your assumption of 27A would in violation of the NEC.

Sorry for the disappointment.


Can old concrete fragments be cleaned and used as crushed stone? Suppose I need to replace old concrete on a driveway or in any similar scenario.

The usual way is to just gather all the old concrete and dispose it to a landfill, then buy cement, sand and crushed stone and prepare new concrete (or just order already mixed unset concrete). This is not very convenient - disposing concrete can cost a fortune and also buying and moving in new crushed stone is not free and one might also be concerned about environmental impact of those operations.

It would be good to try to reuse old concrete as crushed stone. The number one problem is that old concrete fragments from a driveway have lots of dirt on them - mostly all kinds of ground and also whatever could get attached to them while the driveway was in use like oil, paint, other contaminants. Obviously using dirty stones will lower concrete quality singificantly.

Is there a simple yet reliable way to clean all those concrete fragments so that they can be reused in new concrete?

Recycled concrete is used for several different purposes.  It can be used "as is" for bulk
fill / drainage / etc.

When cleaned, crushed, and graded for size, it can be used as a base underneath a new concrete pour.

Recycled concrete can also be used as aggregate within the new concrete.  Several factors must be taken into account to ensure that it will not weaken the integrity of the new concrete (moisture retention, etc).  Typically, up to 30% of the aggregate can be replaced with properly processed recycled concrete.

However, concrete is generally recycled in large scale plants where they can reliably clean, crush, sort, and distribute the incoming material.  It is doubtful that you could do this economically in the small scale.

More recycled concrete info


How can I relocate the primary lockset bore in a door? My current door knob hole is not standard.  The backset it uses is 3 3/4 inch which I no longer have.  I want to re-drill a hole so that I can use a standard 2 3/4 inch backset.  But how do I do that?  Do I fill in the existing hole with some type of wood plug...then re-drill a new hole?

Your choices with regard to this depend greatly upon the materials, construction and finish of the existing door.

If it is a solid wood door that will end up with a painted finish then it is possible to clean up the existing hole and make a surface to surface plug of wood that is glued into place before starting the drilling for the new 2 3/4 inch backset.
If it is a door that has a wood laminate inner and outer surface but a particle board core it can be possible to perform similar steps as outlined above for solid wood doors. Truing up a particle board inner core can be harder to get good glue surface, particularly if the original hole was cut with a coarse toothed hole saw that chewed up the inner surface of the hole.
For plastic or steel clad doors the most likely thing you are looking at is to replace the whole door with a new one. I have seen some types of tricks used for doors of this type that add brass plates to both sides of the door that are secured to the existing door surface. The added plates are used to support the new cutout and bridge over the old one.


2nd floor rewiring question I'm rewiring 3 bedrooms on the second floor of an old (1920s) house. All knob and tube has been disconnected. I've got lighting done, but now doing bedroom general outlet circuits. I'm putting each bedroom on its own 20amp circuit.

The house has plaster walls that are in very good shape, and I want to keep opening up these walls to a minimum. My plan is to make the home runs from the basement to an outlet in each room, through an exterior balloon framed wall. Then, run up to the attic/crawlspace and back down to the next outlet, and so on. Each room has 5-6 outlets, so that means a cable coming down, and another going back up in the same stud bay. I had a couple people advise that this was a good way to do it, including a commercial electrician.

I already roughed in one of the bedrooms this way, but then looking at other examples I saw online, I'm second guessing myself. Many people seem to be cutting a horizontal channel out of the walls to then make horizontal runs between outlets. Another option I came across was one central junction box in the attic for each circuit with wires dropping down to each outlet.

Is there anything wrong with my method (not just from a code perspective)? The extra wire doesn't bother me, I just don't want to make any compromises in safety.

Any of the above are fine.  I would not be a fan of the "make a channel horizontally" method because of the destructive factor.

The "star" topology, one large junction box in the ceiling, is ideal because it keeps wiring length the shortest, just panel to box and box to receptacle.  It is also the easiest if down the road you want to increase power capacity in there to run portable heaters, gaming PC, what have you.

The box needs to be large. You will need 4.5 cubic inches, plus another 4.5 cubic inches for each cable coming into it including supply. My go-to is a 4-11/16" steel box, which has 42 c.i. good for 8 cables. A proper electrical supply will have them for $2-something, expect to overpay at a big-box store, which is ironic since you'd think they'd specialize in, well, big boxes.

However, the attic junction box must remain accessible.  It can't be "improved over" or if you do, you have to put a hatch there to allow access without disassembling any part of the building. Also don't bury the box in insulation, it needs air contact to carry away any internal heat.


Material which absorbs water on carpet and hardwood floor? As the title says, I am looking for material or ways to suck water quickly from hardwood floor or carpet.

A wet (typically "wet/dry") vacuum - most commonly the most affordable form is a shop vacuum. You can use it like a "carpet cleaner" (which is a more expensive form) by spraying a cleaning solution and then sucking that up with the vacuum. Most are quite loud.

Image is an example of the type, not an endorsement of a particular brand or supplier.


Is the purple wire on AC blower motor common wire? I’m replacing my AC blower motor. The old one had Red,Blue, Black wires for speeds, white Common, and brown & brown/white wires to the capacitor. (Yellow, purple wires for rotation).
The new motor has one rotation direction.
It has brown and purple wires going to the capacitor. Black, blue red for speeds. Where is the common wire?

According to the photo I’ve attached, am I supposed to connect a second wire to the capacitor terminal with purple wire, and connect the other end of this second wire to the control board connection where the white wire previously was?
Like this?

Yes, your diagram is correct.
Your new motor appears to not be reversible so hopefully it spins in the correct direction.
Colours on equipment wiring generally do not mean anything aside from what is printed on the diagram; there are no consistent standards or requirements.


How do I remove the back lip from paving stones? I purchased a bunch of these paving stones in order to make a fire pit.  I laid out the fire pit and it worked okay, except if you'll notice on the description of the stones it says "Back lip assists with alignment for easy installation".  Well, I guess the back lip may be helpful for certain situations, but it only seemed to hinder my efforts to lay these stones out in a circle with three layers of stones.  The back lip is about an inch at the back bottom of the stone that is raised out about a half inch from the rest of the surface.

The paving stones in question

Am I using the lip incorrectly?  Is there a way to lay these stones out in a circle where the lip actually helps?  Or, what is the best way to get rid of these lips (I have 27 stones total).  I tried to chip away at one of them with the back of a hammer and while it did work, it took a ton of effort and time.

Ok, those aren't paving stones, those are wall stones (as the Lowes page confirms) - as in retaining wall stones.  The lip is designed to hook to the stone underneath and prevent slipping when pressure is applied from the rear.

Which isn't to say you cannot use them, but you'll find removing the lip much easier if you use a good masonry/stone chisel, like such:

Put the cutting edge of the chisel at the base of the lip, holding the chisel near parallel with the brick surface, and strike the other end firmly with the hammer.  The chisel will create a very focused point of pressure which will chip the lip away.

Finally, since its a simple fire pit, use stone adhesive to fix the blocks in place.  You shouldn't have to worry about the kind of back pressure these bricks are usually designed to withstand.


Should I bend my roof edge away from the fascia to prevent water wicking? Last year, I had a new fiberglass shingle roof installed by one of the better roofing companies in my area. Overall, I am happy, but I'm not sure that the drip-edge was done correctly. It seems that water will wick up under the edge and potentially cause rot (I live in a humid area).

I am considering attempting to bend the edge up, so it is more like the previous drip-edge. I think that if I make a wood wedge on a table saw about a foot long, I can push it up under the edge and press another piece of wood at the existing crease to increase the bend. I know that it will flex enough to get a wedge in, since I put temporary spacers under the edge so I could get paint under the edge (roofer left any replacement fascia unpainted).

Is this a good plan?

I pointed out my concern to the roofing company owner, he disagreed. I wasn't sure enough to argue much.

No. Opening up the joint creates increased opportunity for bulk water entering the wall system driven by rain. Capillary action is a less likely source of bulk water penetration. The joint widens behind the metal, the wood’s rough surface lowers surface tension, and the depth of overlap gives gravity a lot to work with.

While a properly formed positive drip edge formed from a wider piece of metal would have been better, the improvement would be mostly the wider material. Wider flashings simply provide more protection. One reason drips are associated with wider flashings is complex profiles add stiffness. The stiffness reduces oil canning of broader sheet metal surfaces.

The construction looks pretty typical for a reasonable residential roofing job and the roofer’s experience with local conditions and intact reputation count a lot more than lay roofing theories. A good rule of thumb is don’t add holes to working roof systems (or enlarge existing holes).

If a large volume of water is coming over the edge of the roof, gutters and downspouts might be warranted.


How do you deal with the cut edges of window trim? I have put up more than my share of trim.   But I was wondering if there was an easier way (so I will leave mine out to not influence answers) to do the but edges.   Basically in the example below what is the best/quickest way to paint or flatten the sawed/cut edges of the exposed trim?

Note, I completely understand that you can cut the trim at 45s so there are no exposed cut edges, however this has not been in style for years in my area so not an answer or option.

Sand end grain as smooth as you can, then apply two coats of primer before final coat with paint.


7 Watt CFL Socket -- is there a specific tool to close these copper prongs on wire? Having spent a lot of time getting the right parts, I don't want to blow this up by not connecting it properly.  Please see picture and tell me, is there a specific tool to close the wire connection?  I am not getting a convincing closure on my own...
Now, I understand from JStewart's comment that the bulb's pins fit in the copper clamps. (Thank you!) However, I do not know what to do with the wires...  Here is a photo of the flip/under side.  Should I use quick connects to attach the wire to the circular inserts on the under side?  How do I decide which location to connect each wire to - above specs or below specs...one wire is smooth with 600V printed on it (hot?) and the other has a slight groove (neutral?)..

@JimStewart
@Harper - Reinstate Monica
One of the connections was snug, the other wire's housing was too thick so I whittled down the housing a bit to make that side fit.  Then, used some electrical tape to further secure both sides.  It turned on.

The 2 holes touching, that look like a figure-8, on the side with the writing... are stab connections.  You just stick a right-sized wire in the hole.
The right size is typically 18 AWG solid or tinned.
Hot and neutral don't apply here.  These wires need to come off the fluorescent ballast and must be wired according to the ballast diagram.


No power in a fluorescent tube lamp I wanted to use an oldish fluorescent tube lamp and find there is no power, I replaced the tube, also the stater, also the fuse in the plug and still no power. I have a multimeter but don't know how to use it ( 87 yr old widow), any advice?

There is one part you haven't tried, and that is the "ballast".   Fluorescent lights aren't like incandescent lights, they can't be connected directly to mains power.  They need a device to limit how much electric current they draw, and that device is the ballast.

Ballast failures on older lamps are very common.   If you want to replace  the ballast, you can get a modern electronic one that will perform much better.  However the wiring will be different, so you may need to rearrange some wires.  Follow the instructions of the ballast faithfully, don't wire it wrong simply because the ballast is already wired a particular way.

Another option is to convert to LED lighting.  In this case the ballast is removed entirely and mains power is sent direct to the LED light (through the switch). They make LED light "tubes" that take mains voltage and fit where the tubes go.   Beware of "plug-and-play" LEDs that require a working ballast to be there.


power distribution loss of negative on 120v circut If you loose the negative wire on a 120v circuit, can you use the negative going to a different circuit breaker panel supplying  power to a different part of the building if the load is not high on that panel?

No. No, you cannot.

Also, if you're talking about Alternating Current (AC) it's not a negative wire, it's a grounded conductor or "neutral" wire.


Installing pvc molding Installing pvc molding, so we don't have to prime and paint. What s the best method to fill nail holes. As i stated we are not painting. Also have 1 wall where i have to butt 2 pieces of molding together, and the best method for that is?
  Thank you

The simplest way is a dab of painter's caulk right from the tube. As it dries, it may dip a bit, but you can hit it again the next day. The white version should pretty much disappear against the white of pvc.

I might glue the butt joint to keep it tight, but once again, a smear of caulk can mask a bit of a gap.


What could this red switch be for possibly I have a panel of switches where two are normal light switches and the other, third, is a strange looking red push switch:

The red switch is a button that you can press in, and it pops right out when let go. It has Hubbell logon on the inside, but no part number or anything else identifiable. Searching the web, Hubbell PresSwitch seems to look similar - but description of said item indicates that it lights up, which this one doesn't. This one also doesn't seem to do anything I can observe.

Wiring wise, it is side wired with hot and neutral wires. This box has four romex cables going into it. Three are connected to the 2 normal light switches (2-pole). The fourth romex cable is connected to the red button via black and white wires. Now: white wire is connected directly to the red switch. The black wire is pig-tailed in with the red switch and one of the other black wires from another cable.

If this helps figure it out, this panel is right by the front door (switches illuminate outside lights and inside hallway light). Any ideas? I am scratching my head.

Thanks.

turned out to be a switch controlling attic fan, but only when thermostat in the attic actually starts it. The pilot light is actually broken so it was impossible to correlate, but with the help here I was able to finally figure it out... now on to the next thing! :)

Again thanks for very helpful guidance, I definitely learned some things along the way.


What is the name of the metal base plate wher you can install a vise (or any other tool)? How is this 'base plate' called?
I have a new workbench, and I want to install my main tool on the corner.
I want to be able to use different tool on this corner (a vise, table grinder, a drill press...) so a base plate like this one seem a simple and practical idea.
But I cant find them.
Do this kind of metal plate have a name?
The image is taken from this video: WHAT VISE IS THE STRONGEST

There are a number of these table mounted base plates out there. If you've got a wood work bench you might find that this type serves your needs.


What kind of saw would I use to cut a shape out of a panel? It's is a nice even cut trying to find out what kind of saw.

You'd want a hand held jig saw

Or a stationary band saw

or a scroll saw

You could also do it with a hand held coping saw

But it would be alot of work and difficult to get good square, smooth results with the coping saw.

It takes some practice & skill, and/or a good bit of sanding & filing to get those nice smooth cuts with either tool.  You'll also need a drill & bits to drill out the tighter corners - either of the tools, with the possible exception of the scroll saw, will have some trouble cutting some of those smaller radius inside corners without drilling it out first.


Noise reduction hood @ exhaust vent I live on a busy street in San Francisco and recently installed an exterior exhaust vent line for my range hood (it used to be a worthless recirculating type). Doing so has increased the street noise coming into my place a good amount, and the noise is coming through the exhaust vent.

I would like to build a cover for the vent similar in design to the link at the bottom. While i know it won't eliminate the problem, i believe it will prevent enough noise from entering the vent to make a difference.

I am wondering if anyone here has done the same and/or what materials y'all would recommend using.

thx

http://www.enoisecontrol.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Enclosure-Material.png

Add a range hood damper if you dont have one already, it should close off the tube when there is no airflow.

I would still build that enclosure though. The enclosure should be made of non porous, heat/flame resistant, and corrosion resistant materials since your exhaust would likely contain lots of water and oil vapors. Some suitable materials being galvanized steel, aluminum, stainless steel, and copper.


Best route to get power to mini split I'm installing a small minisplit for my garage. The garage is part of the house (front right corner of the house) and I have to put the minisplit condenser in the back of the house.
My breaker panel is outside at the front right corner of the house. If I go straight through the back of the panel, I'm in the garage. I need to get power to the rear right corner of the house.
What I've come up with for options is the following..run pipe from the bottom of the panel down to the area where the slab and stucco meet.  It varies between 6 and 8" off the ground. Then follow that down the side of the house to the back, make the turn to the back and run up to a disconnect where I need it.  I would pull individual wires.  Is there any issues running pipe like that?
The other option is to go into the garage, pipe it to where the lineset will be going up into the space between the first and second floor and follow the lineset out the back of the house.  but this means the wire would partially be in pipe and partially be in a rafter space. That means I can't use individual wires. I'd have even more pipe in my finished garage.  I'm also unclear the proper way to exit the building. When I exit I have to pipe it to the disconnect correct?
I'm in Phoenix, so no issues with snow. Thanks.

Since you are running your lineset inside run your power along with the line set.
Conduit up the wall from the panel enter the house and change over to NM cable. Or run n conduit inside your choice.
Run to the back wall. Most Electrician’s will use an LB conduit body to enter the home (and or exit). Run down to your disconnect with conduit.
To me that sounds like the cleanest install but you can run your conduit at the foundation. There is less chance of the conduit getting damaged up and inside schedule 40 pvc conduit inside would not be that hard to put in. Schedule 80 will be needed at the foundation level of using pvc. EMT can be used in both locations also. I prefer emt over pvc I think it is easier for sizes under 1” but that’s just an opinion many people use pvc. Note; You will probably need an expansion joint with pvc outside along the foundation.


Safe way to close gaps around copper pipes? I have baseboard heaters in my main living space.  I can't see for sure without taking the covers off (which I haven't done yet) but it appears 2 copper pips come up from the basement (through the hard wood floor) to power them and the holes cut seem to be WAY too big around the pipes (fingers could absolutely fit in the spaces).  To prevent rodents from coming up from the basement and to just have a tighter living area altogether, I'd like to close these gaps safely.  I know there is foam out there and steel wool is also an option, but are those really safe for use around what I assume would be hot pipes?  I also read about something called an escutcheon ring but for some reason, I'm seeing those as being $10+ piece and I'd likely have to 10-15 of them (maybe I was looking at the wrong thing).  Any suggestions would be great!  Thanks.

A metal escutcheon ring might be sufficient for your purpose. I would fill the hole with steel wool to stop the mice, then cover with silicone to prevent a draft. The steel wool might be unnecessary, as I don't think mice will gnaw though silicone. However, if the hole is large, the steel wool would make it easier to fill it with silicone without having it fall into the basement.

Don't use spray foam such as Great Stuff around heat sources: it will melt and produce toxic fumes.

BTW, the reason the holes are so big is probably because there used to be three-inch pipes there. Such pipes were used for steam systems and for pump-less hot-water systems where the water was circulated by gravity (convection).


How can I soften the closing/slamming of this gate? I have this outdoor wrought iron gate that slams badly.  It has a basic spring closure.  How can I add some sort of shock absorption or piston or something to make it close more softly?

The holes in the top of the spring are used to increase or lessen tension on the spring. It's the same principle you will find on a spring-loaded barrel hinge. You should find a pin in the last hole on the barrel that is up against a stop. Place a narrow metal rod like a small screwdriver or allen wrench into one of the holes and rotate the top of the  barrel to lessen tension on the pin and remove it. You can then reinsert the pin in a different hole to give it the proper tension.


A creative Eco-friendly Underlayment for a metal roof? I am building an octagonal cabin with a 200 sq ft metal roof (Grandrib 3) at a 30 degree pitch; the roof will sit on wooden strapping and will eventually have insulation below it contained by a ceiling.
It was only recently brought to my attention that because I am including insulation (type yet to be determined) I should have an underlayment - if this is indeed the case? My friend told me the cold air should flow between the roof and the underlayment, underneath the ribs essentially. This is to keep out moist air.
However, I am trying to make this cabin as eco-friendly as possible: so far I have used no plastic or asphalt materials, no plastic wrap, I expect the 100 sq ft cabin to dry out when I use its wood stove. By this I mean the underlayment would decompose over time if it got wet. So, if this cabin were left in the woods and no one tended to it eventually it would disappear. I don't necessarily need shopping guidance but maybe a creative solution with another material - can floor underlayment be used in my situation, for example? Can I combine materials in some way? I have searched for eco-friendly underlayments and they are either for floors or are not really that eco-friendly, i.e. they include plastics.
So, my question is has anyone come up with a creative solution for an eco-friendly roofing underlayment? I am not worried about water getting in from above, just moist air. I would be happy to hear about solutions that didn't require an underlayment too.

Red Rosin Paper (which is a bit old-school, but can still be found) would fill the bill, I believe. It's plant based. Seems to be getting sold for floors now, but was the thing people used before housewrap on exterior walls under siding.
However, depending on type and installation of insulation, all you really need is an airspace between the insulation and the roof. You need a vapor barrier between the ceiling and the insulation.
Some sort of cloth could also work, just to contain the top of the insulation and maintain an airspace. Boards also work, but may cost more than you want to spend.
You will want metal screening on the vent openings to discourage rodents (and perhaps other things) from nesting in the insulation.


Ceiling fan wiring (2x light switch, 1x fan switch) I'm installing a ceiling fan in our kitchen and we need to have 1x switch for the fan (preset fan control switch) and 2x switches for the light (1x 3-pole dimmer switch, 1x 3-pole switch). I was unable to find any wiring diagrams for such a setup, so I drew one up myself:

Before implementing it I wanted to get some outside eyes on the diagram to make sure that it will in fact work as intended and that it is safe and to code.
Any help or input would be appreciated. TIA!
Updated diagram based on @ThreePhaseEel's comment:

This won't fly
What you have proposed is not to Code, due to the current loop created by the "solo" hot wire going up to the fan then returning back via the neutral going down to the other switch.  This violates the intent of the 300.3(B)/310.10(H) prohibitions against current loops and paralleled wires which can create magnetic fields and ensuing eddy-current heating issues in your walls.
What to do instead
What you should do instead is run 14/3 from the two-gang switch box (fan + light switches) up to the fan box, and then use the 14/3 between the two switch boxes as as a 3-way switch spur consisting of two travelers and either an always-hot or a switched-hot as the "return" leg back to where it joins up in the two-gang switch box.  This removes the 14/2 going from the single-gang box up to the fan box, and gets rid of all the magnetic-field issues your original plan had.


Is toenailing necessary for a joist-to-ledger attachment? Is it sufficient to rest joists on joist hangers or should you always toenail (drive screws/nails at an angle through the joist). And does the toenail have to drive into the ledger or just hold the joist on the joist hanger?

You should always nail your joists to the joist hangers, using the type and quantity of nails recommended by the hanger manufacturer for the type of hangers you're using.  Double-shear hangers, the most common type, will have special nail holes designed to direct the joist nails at an angle through the joist and into the ledger or header.  Typically you'll use 16d or 10d standard-length nails for the joists, and short 1-1/2" 10d nail for fastening the hanger to the ledger or header.  Here's an image from Simpson's website of a properly installed double-shear joist hanger:


Green striped wire placement when changing from 3 prong to 4 on dryer I recently moved into a new house which accepts a 4 prong dryer cord.  My dryer, a Kenmore 110.66922501, is currently wired for 3.  As wired for 3 prong, the neutral connection on the dryer has an additional green (with yellow stripe) wire attached.  This green striped wire appears to terminate at a point on the chassis. When changing to the 4 prong cord, should the green striped wire be moved to the chassis to be connected with the cord’s green wire?

Yes, that is the most important thing you need to do!
Neutral is a power wire that handles return/balance current.  It's a "hot" wire, but is near ground voltage under normal circumstances.  However it can be "hot, which is why it is insulated.
On a proper and modern 4-wire dryer connection, we want neutral connected to to the electrically active parts of the machine, and the chassis attached to safety ground.
On a 3-wire dryer connection, they made the decision to bond the machine chassis to neutral.  It was known to be unsafe, but was considered less unsafe than doing nothing at all, on the rationale that the wiring is rarely disturbed and the neutral is unlikely to fail (electrifying the chassis of the machine if it did).
So yes. As part of a conversion to 4-wire, you really want to remove that bonding jumper.
It should go somewhere secure where it won't flop around and hit a hot wire.
You can only put 1 bare wire on a screw, but if all wire ends have ring terminals crimped on, you can stack those.


MWBC for split kitchen receptacle When installing a split receptacle in a kitchen, where the top and bottom are each their own circuit, is there any way you can use an MWBC, or is your only option to run two normal circuits with two separate neutral wires? I can't think of any code-compliant way to do an MWBC here that wouldn't require a double-pole DFCI breaker, which to my knowledge doesn't exist for any type of panel. In the past, this was easy since AFCI wasn't required in kitchens, and double-pole GFCI breakers do exist. Also, if this is impossible now, is it also impossible now to install NEMA 6-15 or 6-20 receptacles in kitchens? Because I don't think 240V GFCI receptacles exist, and without them, wouldn't you need a double-pole DFCI for that too?

There are a couple of tricky ways to do what you're after, but they aren't all that great
It is still possible to run kitchen small appliance branch circuits as split-receptacle MWBCs (vs. double-duplex MWBCs or solutions based on separate branch circuits), but it takes some panel gymnastics to do so for the reason you describe (namely, the lack of two-pole DFCIs on the market).  In particular, you have the choice of:

a GFCI protected common feeder using a 2-pole, 50A GFCI to protect a subpanel with 2-pole, 20A AFCIs in it
using individual "spa box" sized panels with GFCI breakers in them (you can even use actual spa panels for this) as subpanels off 2-pole, 20A AFCIs
or using a single large box to mount several unit mount GFCI breakers individually fed from 2-pole, 20A AFCIs in the panel.

The first approach is the simplest and cleanest to implement using "conventional" parts, but has the downside that a GFCI trip takes out all the kitchen receptacles.  The second and third approaches avoid this, but at the cost of either multiplying boxes at the panel or using harder-to-get boxes and breakers (Eaton (QCGFT) and GE (THQC...GFT) make lug-lug/unit-mount GFCI breakers, but they're not exactly home-store items, and you'd need a cutout box and brackets to mount them in/with, too).
Given that, it's probably simpler to have a conduit run out to your kitchen receptacles, so you can pull in extra wires for 240V outlets (which don't need AFCI protection), more circuits, or what-have-you.  This doesn't have to be terribly expensive, either, as it can be done using ENT ("smurf tube") since that's a mains-legal wiring method in most places that aren't Chicagoland (where you're already using conduit to begin with) or NYC.


Passive-Aggressive smoke detectors At about 3am this morning, one of my smoke detectors started to give off a chirp -- the 'maybe my battery is dead, maybe I'm dirty' chirp.

We managed to more or less sleep through it. By the time we got up in the morning, no more chirps. I'm sure it's waiting for us to be fast asleep again.

I've been through this before. These are all, by the way, wired detectors. it's their backup batteries that they complain of.

A few weeks ago, in the hopes of heading all of this off, I double-checked that all the batteries were recent, and I replaced all the remaining 10-year-old detectors with new ones.

UPDATE

3:30AM this morning. Beep *Beep*

Take a walk around. It is not evident which one is making the noise. Reach a conclusion. Pull one down. Back to bed.

A few moments later: Beep *Beep*

Out of bed again, but it refuses to beep while I'm standing there.

There are not alarm beeps, these are battery beeps.

Turn up the thermostats to daytime. Beeping stops.

Any suggestions?

I had this problem for awhile with my recently installed hardwired detectors.  At first I started replacing the batteries figuring maybe the ones included in the box were old (who knows how long they were sitting on the shelf at the store?).  Then it kept happening even on some of the detectors that I had already replaced the battery with a fresh one so I stopped replacing the batteries but I would disconnect the hardwire, reset the alarm and re-attach it. That usually would stop it for awhile but a couple days later it kept happening, so I was repeating the procedure and I saw a little spider run across the inside of the alarm.  My theory is I have these little spiders were running around inside the alarm.  So now I just take them off the ceiling and blow real hard inside to try and get anything out that might be inside.


cooling city water in the summer First off, I live in Phoenix, AZ. This is desert here. I live in an area where people mostly have natural desert landscaping rather than lawns.

Now, this will sound really odd to folks who live elsewhere, but the house I'm in now does not get "cold" water in the summer. I can literally shut off my hot water heater and take a shower just from the cold water coming in from the city water line. The so-called "cold" water temp is somewhere over 110 for most of the summer. It's fine for most of the rest of the year, just not from May thru Sept.

I've lived in different parts of the city throughout my life, and this is the hottest "cold" water I've ever had to deal with. I think a big part of it is because the ground in this area is quite rocky and sandy, not much solid dirt. And it's dry as a bone.

Where you've got a water main running under yards that have lawns that are watered regularly, the water seeps into the ground and cools the ground and whatever pipes are there. Hardly anybody in this area has lawns, certainly nobody along the route where my water main comes from.

Short of putting a 50 gallon water cooler into a fridge (the opposite of a water heater), I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas about how I might rig up something that could cool the water coming into the house by 20-30 degrees?

Very common in tropical Australia, not a big deal. The ground gets hot in summer and even though the street pipes are six feet underground the water can scald.  Every summer we turn off the power to the hot water storage tank, it then becomes the cold water supply. If we use too much "cold" water the tank warms up. The house has an  evaporative cooler and the tank is positioned inside the house and is cooled.


How to remove a brass concrete anchor? I have brass anchors like below in the concrete deck around my pool.

Today, when I was raising the inner screw to install the cover, the screw was being very difficult. Trying to raise it, the inner piece snapped. Now I'm left with a the inner piece broken and no way to loosen/raise the inner screw.

What is the best way to remove the entire device without damaging the concrete?

EDIT: Anchors were installed after the concrete was dry, so there is no conformance to the shape of the anchor.

A slide hammer would be the most likely to work in that case. Drill a hole in the broken part, screw in the tip of a slide hammer, hammer it up and out.

Using a penetrating lubricant and a screw extractor to get the broken threaded part (only) out would be an alternate approach.

Be sure to apply anti-seize to the threads of all the ones that still work, and the new one, to reduce your odds of having this type of problem in the future.


Why do two of three bulbs burn out in my light fixtures? I have two inexpensive 3 bulb light fixtures in my bathroom. The same bulb (on the end) kept burning out in each fixture. When we finally quit replacing it, the middle bulbs in each fixture eventually burned out. Now one end bulb in each fixture is, and had been working fine. Is it due to internal wiring of the fixture? Seems logical to me but I'm having a problem finding anyone to agree lol

I may not agree with others but many times it is the connection to the lamp that is the problem. The center conductor getting folded down a little more than the others and the lamp arcs until it no longer makes a connection.
I would try (with the power off) to lift the center tab a little. These tabs are many times brass and they do have some spring to them.
A kitchen knife to lift it up a little like 1/4” so it makes a solid connection may be the fix you need to have lamps that last closer to the same life time.


Does adding a ceiling improve temp? My garage has a roof,  four walls and a door.

It currently has beams running along the ceiling height which looks like it was used for storage.

Would adding a ceiling keep my garage at a Warmer temperature for longer?

If it does what is a good and low cost material to use?

Would adding a ceiling keep my garage at a Warmer temperature for longer?

Yes, but you probably need to at least seal around the doors and perhaps insulate plain metal doors.

  what is a good and low cost material to use?

In my part of the world, mineral wool in rolls.

You can suspend this in netting (the upper floor of an office building I use has this, with a false ceiling below, but the insulation is suspended in netting). Stapling some netting to your beams seems to me easier than attaching drywall/plasterboard and laying insulation above that.


Bypass a three-way switch for the next single pole switch in the same circuit to work on a different light? Is there a way to bypass a three-way switch for the next single pole switch in the same circuit to work on a different light?

I have four lights on one circuit with two of them on three-way switches. Only one of the single pole lights work without interference from the three-way switches. The other single pole light can only turn on and off when the three-way switch lights are on. When I opened up the single pole switch box, I find two cables each with a black and white line plus ground wires. After removing the single pole switch in question, only one of the black lines have power AND it only has power when the three-way switch is on. When the three-way switch is off, neither cable has power in the black or white lines.

A 3 way switch is typically wired with 3 conductors plus ground.  Ground and return are never interrupted by the switches.  Hot is fed into the first switch which then energizes one or the other of the two remaining wires (travelers).  The other switch then determines which traveler is connected to the fixture.  If the light is off, the switches are set to different travelers (first switch energizes traveler 1, second connects fixture to traveler 2).  Flipping either switch turns the fixture on by setting both switches to the same traveler.

You need to pull a constant hot for the standard switch, so you need to source that from either a different line (may have to be same breaker for code) or from the beginning of the 3-way switch setup, before the travelers.


Handling breaks in the top plate for a long partition wall When building partition walls whicher are longer than a 2x4's length, how should butt joints in the top plate be handled?

I can think of 2 methods off hand:

Assuming these are acceptable methods then I have some extra questions:

Option A: Does the break need the occur not only on a stud, but with
either a rafter, floor joist, or blocking above the joint as well?
Option B: Should 16" on center be maintained for the whole length of
the wall, meaning only out of those two studs is actually 16OC?

Option A is acceptable for exterior walls and bearing walls, assuming a second top plate is installed correctly....lapped a minimum of 24” (See ICC R602.3.2.) and nailed properly. BTW, the top plate splice need not occur at a stud. (Nailing is complicated...it depends a lot on what seismic zone you’re in.)

Option B is allowed, but splicing (nailing) of studs together is important...and yes, it’s critical to keep your 16” or 24” wall stud spacing consistent, because the wall sheathing and interior gypsum board is laid out to those dimensions.

Oh, with regard to distance of rafters and trusses to studs, yes, they need to occur within 5” of a stud.


Trying to not use wood in basement walls I am doing a basement project and trying to keep wood/organic products out of the wall to prevent potential wood rot or mold. There are metal studs in place, but these are not good for mounting trim work or cabinets. I am curious if composite decking, mounted horizontally between the studs, would be effective as a way to mount cabinets and trim once the drywall has been installed?  Is there any better technique?

There is no reason wood shouldn't suffice. That is the way most basements are built, mold would only be an issue if the is bad drainage and water buildup. But even without that you might just use a dehumidifier to reduce dampness in the basement.


Can PVC Conduit be Used on an Unfinished Basement Wall? I'm interested in installing outlets on my basement wall, and I saw that PVC conduit is available.  Is this acceptable to use PVC conduit on unfinished basement walls?

You are much better off using EMT metal conduit. I find it easier to work, you can bend it yourself with any pipe bender, and the EMT provides the ground for you, so you don't need to wire a ground.  That saves you 33% on wire.  I work exclusively in EMT and I never owned any green wire until I did an extension in PVC.

By the way, in any conduit you are better off using individual wires, called THHN/THWN-2, or alternately XHHW.  Using Romex in conduit isn't illegal, but it requires being a masochist or overspending on wildly oversized conduit. Also you can only put 1 cable per conduit unless the conduit is super oversized.  In wires, you can put as 5-6 circuits in a 1/2" conduit.

In wires (not cables), you can also use stranded wire, which is super easy to pull, although a little harder to terminate on cheapie switches and receptacles.

Second circuits in garages can be rather useful when dust collectors are involved.


Is this enough support for my countertop? I am putting a new countertop in (Lustrastone, is like Durastone) that will wrap around an outcorner wall.  Along one side is a 48" wide base cabinet and the countertop will be 38" deep.  It will extend 18" beyond the left side of the base cabinet and wrap around an outcorner wall that is not as strong as a regular wall because it has a pocket door in it. That part of the countertop will run 40" along the wall and will be 18" deep. The full length of that will actually be the 40" along the wall + the 38" deep.  I am planning to use hidden countertop support along the front of the base cabinet.  I am trying to figure out how to support the countertop along the wall and side of the base cabinet without depending on the wall to bear the weight.  I would like to stay away from a leg support on the outer corner of the countertop.  I am thinking about using hammered steel tubing that is 2" X 1".  Here is what I have in mind:

Run the tubing horizontally along the wall (the cabinet does not reach the corner....it is about 1 1/2" from the corner....... I will have to run the tubing along the side of the cabinet also)

Place a piece of tubing against the wall from the floor to the bottom of the horizontal tubing, acting as a leg, where each cast iron or wrought iron corbel will be

Attach the corbels to the horizontal tubing and vertical tubing (the corbels will not necessarily be where there are studs in the wall)

The countertop will sit on 1" tubing as it will be placed flat on the wall.  I am not sure how deep or high the corbels need to be.  The Lustrastone will be formed with plywood under it.

Will my idea work?  Will the tubing be strong enough?

We specialize in Countertop Supports. Using Hidden Brackets on the front base of your cabinet will be fine with an 18" overhang. We recommend you have no more than 4" unsupported countertop out beyond the extension of the bracket, meaning using a 14" plate/bracket would be sufficient. Also recommended is installing a plate/bracket at each end of the countertop within 4" from the edge, then spacing the additional brackets evenly between those two, 18" apart. I figure you would need 4 brackets.

For the 40" long, 38" deep countertop, I understand one side of this is connected to the countertop on top of a base cabinet. Are both ends of the 40"W/38"D countertop supported by base cabinets? If so, you can also use Hidden Brackets here as well. You would attach to the side of the cabinet base extending under the unsupported countertop. With the unsupported size of 40"x38", mounting to the sides of the cabinet bases, you can use 18" plates or 18" x 18" L Brackets. You would need to install 2 on each side of the cabinet base for a total of 4. You would place each 2 brackets within 4" from the edge of the countertop. This unsupported area would now be fully supported.

If I have misunderstood your design, I apologize. If you could attach a sketch of your design, I will be happy to assist.


What type of wood is this? I've started my first home renovation project and I've stained this floor, after doing this I was told (by an amateur home renovator) that I'm not supposed to stain that kind of wood. Could anyone tell me what kind of wood they think it is so that I can verify?

Thanks in advance.

Based on the color (light; pink tinge), knots (lots), and grain (wide) I would say it's a soft wood but I don't know what type. Common soft wood flooring would be pine and fir. Soft woods can be dented with your fingernail (unlike oak, for example—a common hardwood species for flooring).

You can definitely stain pine, but that floor doesn't look stained to me. What exactly did you do?


Kitchen sink backing up problem I have side by side sinks in the kitchen. When one sink drains, it backs up into the other sink.  I have removed the trap and it is clean, however, the problem still exists. What am I overlooking? How can I correct this problem?

There's a blockage farther down the line somewhere. It is most likely right where the trap arm connects to the vent and vertical drain. Try to auger this fitting out. Access by removing the trap and hopefully the adapter that turns down into the trap. If the adapter does not come off, you'll have to work through it's bend.

If you can't get a clean running drain by working at this fitting, it is time for professional assistance.


How to fix falling out electric socket? I've a Type C electric socket that not holds solidly in a wall slot.

It uses metallic lateral ears and a pair of screws which controls their angle to hold itself into a wall socket.

Wall socket is concrete.

Is there any way to fix it solidly into this wall socket?

You can use a 90 degree, type C plug

And then fasten to the wall, with a couple of cable clamps

A clamp close to the outlet and it will be difficult to remove, and clamps down or along the wall will keep it safe.

Hope this helps


Do I need builders risk insurance for a kitchen remodel I am managing my own kitchen remodel which involves the following work:

Level subfloor
New porcelain tile floor
Replace load bearing wall with post and beam (under the direction and plans of a licensed structural engineer).
New cabinets
New countertops
Minor plumbing modifications
Minor electrical modifications
New drywall

I am subcontracting out for most of this work and am being very selective in who I am working with. I have done some reading online and in books I got from the library and some of them say I must get an insurance policy called a Builders Risk insurance policy.

I called my homeowners insurance company today and asked about this and they said that there is no need for me to do this. Is that good advice? What are the pros and cons of getting that insurance and where would I buy such a policy if I decided to get one?

I see no reason for you to insure yourself during this project. I would advise you to be sure the individual subcontractors you hire carry contractors liability insurance. If for some reason a contractor makes a mistake that causes a major problem, you can litigate against that contractor and their insurance company. Example: carpenter drives a nail through a wire, gas  or water line that causes collateral damage, fire or water damage.  Ask for a copy of the contractors insurance binder sent directly from the insurance company to you.  Insurance companies do this at no charge and assures you the policy is in effect and current.


How to remove a bathroom faucet stem with an awkward fastener? I've never seen this style of fastener for a faucet stem.
It doesn't seem to be screwed into the threads.
I need to replace the faucet and I have no clue how to disassemble it.
How do I remove this?

EDIT: Extra photos
The inside side is much like the front. You can see on the far faucet stem what the side facing the center looks like.

A closer look at the threads. The "fork" piece seems to be clipped onto a ring that is screwed onto the threads.

Difficult to be sure, as I've never met one in person before, but judging from what I can see in your picture I suspect there is a part on the threads, but there also appears to be a pin (on, I think, that part) through the side of the "fork" part, and I suspect you can pry the left (open) side of the fork to pop the hole in the fork off the pin, while pulling or prying to the right. Presumably there's another pin on the other side to get the "fork" off of before it will come free.
You might try unscrewing it a turn or two (I'm unclear if you have made this attempt yet) to make it easier to pop the "fork" off. My guess is that this arrangement is intended to allow the part on the threads to pass through the hole so that rather than having to turn the nut on many turns in an awkward location, the nut part can be pre-located close to snug, the faucet inserted, and the fork clipped on and tightened only a turn or two to hold onto the sink/countertop/tub.


Best Lighting options for Long Basement I have a half basement that I'm keeping open and its 45'x12'. I had always planned on doing a drop ceiling with recessed lights but I'm wondering if there is a better option considering the length of the room. My plan as of now is to install 8-10 lights total in 2 rows.
Has anyone done a living space with other lighting options so I could cut down on the amount of lights needed?

Number of fixtures is easily reduced by using long fixtures:

4 or even 8 foot fluorescent tubes, for instance.
45 foot long LED strip lights appear to be available, on a casual
search.
Strings of small lights on cords (fairy lights, Christmas lights) hung from hooks.

Whether that's the lighting you want is a whole different question and mostly off-topic as decorating advice. But I would personally suggest worrying more about getting the light you (or your spouse, if applicable) want(s) than the number of fixtures required to do so. That may depend on what you plan to use the space for - 4 foot shop lights hung from chains or bare bulbs in ceiling sockets are typically fine for "storage" but not quite the thing in "living" space.


To rake or not to rake snow off of roof First time owning a house with a roof that can be raked,  It is a shingled roof.
The question is - Should I be doing it?
We live in Northeast (it's snowing as we speak) and icicles do form on the roof in several places. I assumed I need to rake the roof and bought a rake. However, recently a contractor who did a the new roof on this house last year stopped by, and when I asked him about it - he said not to rake it! His reasoning was that I would just push up a potential ice dam higher on the roof to the location where it doesn't have a protection and I would only potentially cause a bigger problem. In other words, trading off a small ice dam near the roof edge to for a larger ice dam higher up the roof.
Is this legit or he's just looking to spread bad advise and get more roofing business? (kidding. I hope.)

There are really two reasons to rake a roof (snow weight and ice dams), and there are two reasons not to rake (effort and roofing damage).
Raking to reduce snow weight
If you're concerned that the weight of accumulated snow will exceed load design limits, by all means pull some snow off. You don't want a collapse. This is a rare situation in northern climates, though, as snow loads are expected and accommodated in modern construction. Talk to your neighbors about how much snow is concerning. Take an average between the Chicken Little and the Couldn't Care Less types.
Raking to resolve or prevent ice dams
Whether you rake for ice dams depends on a number of factors, such as attic insulation and ventilation, sun exposure, and weather conditions. You'll have to make a judgement call on that for a given situation.
If you have an ice dam problem, removing the snow from the lower portion of the roof may help. By removing snow from the area that's melting you prevent dams from forming. If snow is melting due to inadequate insulation, and most of the heat lost from the home transfers through the roof down low, clearing that area may resolve the issue.
It may also relocate the problem, as has been suggested. Dams occur where ice has melted and re-frozen. If the snow is insulating the roof surface, allowing melting to occur due to heat from below, the dam may occur just below the new lower edge of the snow.
Raking is hard work and damages roofing
All that said, raking is hard work. You'll get a six pack. It also will damage your shingles if you're not extremely careful--those corners have a tendency to punch through the snow on occasion. Over time you'll scrape away the protective ceramic granules and weaken the shingles. They'll curl and crack before they otherwise would have. Raking is to be avoided unless truly necessary.


How do I remove THIN layer of carpet glue from concrete? The folks who owned this house before us were the cheapest people around. They glued carpet to our concrete floor with a very thin layer of glue. Now, I'm having a terrible time scraping it off. I tried using some adhesive remover we got from Lowe's, but it doesn't really seem to be having any effect other than making it wet :(

My local hardware stores include: Locke & Lowe's. There's also a local store that rents tools, but I'm not sure the extent of their selection, I was able to rent an auger there once for digging fence poles, just as an example.

Any suggestions on solvents? Tools?

We ended up using Krud Kutter Adhesive Remover, several pots of boiling water combined with a sturdy long handled floor scraper (& elbo grease) followed by a large orbital sander with 60 grit sanding screens.

This still didn't get all of the adhesive off :( but we have enough off and it's smooth enough for us to paint the floor, based on what I've been told & read online.

Hopefully, this will be helpful for someone else later on :)


Fans in Two Bathrooms Share Power? I have a bathroom on my main floor with three switches: lights, fan and heat lamp. I am replacing the fan and do not need the heat lamp, however when I wired the two switches I want to use, the white wire on the fan side is hot and blew the circuit. I disconnected it, and now the lights do not work and the bathroom fan UPSTAIRS is not working. I really do not want to rewire my bathrooms, does anyone know why they would be wired this way? How can I keep the existing wiring and get my fans working?
Thanks,

Sorry if this don't help but if your asking why are both on 1 circuit, that's because they can be. A bathroom circut for lighting can be top all lighting in both bathrooms that do NOT include a heater. A 3 in 1 fan, heat, light must have it's own dedicated circuit

If this isn't answered by mid day tomorrow, I'll help. If it is, I'll delete this answer. Just sone questions. To assist others and myself later.

What gauge wire is being used?
What size breaker is it?
Have you tested the lines with the breaker off to verify that all lines are dead?
How certain are you of which lines are main supply lines?

Lines cannot be randomly spliced in the walls like your diagram suggests. I would personally use a 12/3 and use the 3rd hot line as a bypass through the switch, lights, and to the next switch. So what you think is upstream could be downstream.

Testing would entail disconnecting all lines, safely cap them, turn on breaker, test lines, turn off breaker, connect the verigied hot line to the next line directly and cap them, turn on breaker, test all lines to verify what line is what and that it isn't spliced randomly, and repeat till you have a definite diagram.

... this may just be me... but please also clean up diagram as power in, number of lines,  and where you want things. The "whatwass" and "what will be" party makes it hard to follow.


How can I extend a deck post on an existing deck? I have an existing deck (built in 1991) that I am making repairs to.  As part of the work I want to extend the deck cover that's already there.

Existing deck

Desired outcome

So I know I need to either "extend" or put in new posts.  Ideally, I would just replace the post with a longer one by attaching it to the the post anchor (as explained here).

However, the posts are embedded in the footing:

and have been cut off at deck height:

I'm looking for recommendations of how I would support the extended deck cover with posts?  How would I attach them to the deck I currently have?

They make a metal brack to span the old 2X4 and you most likely can get it to work for the new roof.  If not I can most likely get some made at work.  You do have some good bracing and support on the one footing you have pictured here and if the other one is the same way it would be just as strong.

I would just pull out the old footings and replace them with the new style footing and be done with it.

Reasons:
1) you would always have questions as to how strong the modified brackets (ie the roof/posts are) and
2) By replaceing the old footing /posts you now have done the job and will pass and inspector.


Clean or Replace subfloor I removed old stick on tile from my bathroom and this is what my subfloor looks like.

All that white is the adhesive. From what I can tell so far there is no mold or rot. Is it work it to remove this old subfloor and replace it with a new one? Or should I just clean it up? I plan on putting simple square tiles down.

If I should clean it up, is there any hints or tips to clean a subfloor with this much adhesive and grime on it? Thank you!

Replacing the subfloor will not be easy, it likely runs under the walls.  You'll have to cut around the perimiter and the pry up the boards which are likely gluded down as well.

If you want the glue removed try a belt sander with a 40 grit paper or lower and see how well that removes the glue.  You'll gum up a lot of belts, but the area is still small. Wear a dust mask.


Should I remove vinyl flooring before laying down hardwood? I'm putting hardwood floors in my kitchen and living room, which next to each other.  The kitchen has vinyl flooring, so it is slightly higher than the living room, which has carpet on subfloor.  I want the hardwood to be at the same level in both rooms so I don't need a threshold between the rooms. Is it possible to remove the vinyl? I imagine it is glued down.

Yep, it's actually pretty easy. For the most part it'll peel up, you just need a good scraper (available at Home Depot in the flooring tools aisle) to get up the stuck down parts. Don't worry about getting all the glue up, just get the majority of the chunks up so that the floor is smooth.


Are these brown finger-like things on the outside of my house caused by termites? Is this ground termite? This is on the outside of a wall in the backyard.
This is the only occurrence of this thing.

Should I be worried? Should I call someone to look at it? OR can I fix this myself?

Those are definitely termite tubes. Those are the exploratory tubes that termites make when they come out of the soil and are exposed to air and light. They build the tubes out of dirt and their feces to protect them when out of the ground. Definitely termite tunnels. These are common on the side of a house, or inside a crawl space going up foundation walls.

DIY is definitely an option - a MUCH cheaper option. It's really simply in terms of knowing what to do, the hard part is the digging and drilling, but it's worth it when you know how much you will save. Read this article on my site to learn how to do it yourself: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/how-to-perform-termite-treatment-a-87.html


Dishwasher not draining water I have a Bosch dishwasher that is 4 years old. Lately it has been leaving water at the bottom at the end of the cycle. Tried running the cycle again and it cleans the dishes but leaves water in the end. Any tips as to what is possibly wrong?

The drain valve could be sticking. There is usually a solenoid that opens the drain valve at the end of the cycle and the water is pumped out instead of circulating.

If the solenoid or the valve is malfunctioning then water could be left after the cycle or the dishwasher doesn't fill as far as it should.

Experiment some more but it sounds like a repair is in your future.

Good luck!


Windows won't close and have broken locks -- how to fix? I've got a lot of windows that won't close all the way, and that have broken locks.  Not sure if they're crappy windows or not -- the previous owner cheaped-out a lot of things.

Anyway, how can I fix this?  It seems like it should be easy to replace the locks, but a lot of the windows won't close enough for the locks to work, and I think that's why they broke.

Another question:  what do I even call this problem?  Not sure what to google.  Are these "sagging"?

Pic below:

I won't address the "broken locks" part of the question because the answer is self-evident.

You have what is commonly called a tilt window that uses spiral balance mechanisms to keep the window up when you open it. Common reasons for these windows to become difficult to fully close are worn or damaged spiral balances or worn or damaged balance shoes.

The balance shoe is a part that rides up and down in a frame channel on the side of the sash, the window sash connects to it at the bottom corners. Sometimes you can just lubricate the channel that the balance shoe slides up and down in, to make it easier to open and close the windows.

Check out this video to familiarize yourself with how and where the balance shoe operates. There are many more online informational resources to find by searching spiral sash balance.


Is this outlet wired to a switch correctly? I have been upgrading to grounded outlets in my 1950s house and I just want to make sure that this particular outlet was wired appropriately by the previous homeowner. This outlet is controlled by a switch. In the switch box, two black wires are secured to one brass post, while one red wire is secured to another brass post. In the outlet box, there is one capped black wire. One red wire runs to the brass connections and two white wires to the silver connections. I wired the new outlet the same way but added a ground that connects to the metal box (Later, I rewired the new outlet to the screws, not the push in connectors).

My ground tester confirms it's grounded. Is there anything I need to change here or should be concerned about?

As long as you ran a ground wire from the receptacle to the box, you should be fine providing the box is grounded.  It's not uncommon for older systems with metal boxes to have the box grounds connected.  Make sure they aren't just bridging neutral to ground anywhere to fool the tester.

You do need to run ground wires to the box on receptacles. A receptacle can also ground through direct contact between metal yoke and box, as you have with that switch; but not if the box is dirty or rusty (as your switch is) or if it has the little paper squares to capture the screws (as your switch does).

The rules are easier on grounding switches; your switches can ground through their screws despite the material preventing the yoke from hard contact.


How many 12-2 cables can I put in a short run of conduit? I am putting in a few new outlets in an enclosed patio, running a new circuit through the attic using 12-2.  I would like to go from the panel to the first outlet, then to the second and then the 3rd.  The run would be via the attic and the cable would just be exposed on the vertical run from the attic down to the outlet.

I would like to run this exposed section, about a 10 ft vertical run per outlet, in conduit.  I would prefer to not have to run multiple conduits per box and was hoping I could use 3/4" LT or PVC - again just for the vertical section from the attic to the outlet.  It isn't a wet or damp location, I just want it protected from any possible accidents.

Would this be acceptable to pull two 12-2 cable per 3/4" conduit at least for the first 2 outlets or do I need to put in a junction box along the way and then just run a 1/2" down to the outlet? I'd really prefer not to do this.

I know I shouldn't put cable in conduit for the full run, which I am not doing. This is just for exposure protection and I am not clear what the best practices are.

Liquidtight
If by "LT" you mean Liquidtight flexible conduit (metallic or nonmetallic), and you're looking for protection from physical damage. That's not an option, since it's not permitted to be used where subject to physical damage.
PVC
You'll have to use schedule 80 PVC, to provide protection from physical damage.
Calculate Fill
To calculate conduit fill for cables, you treat each cable as a single conductor and calculate the fill based on the major diameter of the cable (looked up from manufacturer documentation). For Southwire® Romex® SIMpull® 12/2 with ground cable, the major diameter is listed at 410 mils.
A = πr²
A = π * ((410/2)/1000)²
A = π * (0.205)²
A = π * 0.042025
A = 0.13202543126711106084639258818232 in.²
Since you're using the conduit as a sleeve, and not a complete conduit system, you should be able to fill the conduit to 100%. However, filling to 100% will make it impossible to pull the cables, so you'll want to stay well below that.
3/4" Schedule 80 PVC has a total area of 0.409 in.², of which two 12/2 with ground NM-B cables will fill 65% of.  Depending on how long the sleeve is, this might make it quite difficult to pull the cables through.
Fill = Conductor Area / Total Area
Fill = (0.132025 * 2) / 0.409
Fill = 0.26405 / 0.409
Fill = 0.6456 = 65%
To put this in perspective. If this was two wires in a complete conduit system, you'd only be able to fill to 31% of the total area of the conduit (0.127 in.²).
Wet and Damp Locations
If this area can be considered damp or wet, you'll have to use cable rated for wet/damp locations.  In this case, you'll want to use UF-B cable (463 mil major diameter). Two of these cables will fill 82% of the conduit, making it nearly impossible to pull by hand (depending on the length).
Fill = (((π * ((463 / 1000) / 2)²) * 2) / 0.409) * 100
Fill = 82.33%


Gray "Dust" On Pink Insulation in Attic I was looking in my attic today for the first time; it's been on my list to check up there to make sure nothing looks off (i.e. no water damage, the roof isn't falling apart, etc).

One thing I noticed was there's some gray coloring in my pink insulation up there:

Normally I'd just assume this is dust settling in the attic which I never go up in, but after Googling a bit it apparently could be mold. I'd like to get a second opinion to determine if it's mold growing in the pink insulation or if it's just dust settling on top.

If the images I've posted do not provide the proper insight please feel free to comment to let me know and I can provide more specific pictures.

I've been in no less than 300 attics and every one of then has had dust, grey dust, in them. Your attic has soffits installed to vent the attic. You also have vent pipes going through the roof to vent caps that allow some backdraft into the attic. If you've ever had your roof redone, stuff will be knocked down. Mold needs a fare amount of moisture and most of the attics I've been in just don't have it.

If this is going to keep you up at night, you can always have a piece of the insulation tested.


Air conditioner problems My A/C is having problems for the last few days. My outside unit which the main motor is always cycling off and on every 3-5 minutes and the room temperature is not improving.

This happens even when the inside fan is working just fine. However, the problem starts when the A/C is turned on, it doesn't matter if the room is cool or not.

Kindly please assist me. Thanks.

Are you getting ANY cool air coming out of your vents or condensation drainage from the A/C drain pipe by your inside A/C unit?  A good rule of thumb I've used for residential A/C is to have about a 15-20 degree drop between room temperature and air coming from the A/C.

A few suggestions to check before calling an trustworthy A/C repair service person:

Check to make sure you don't have a utility mizer device hooked up to your A/C that cycles the power based on a signal from your utility company.  If you do, you can contact them to make sure you don't have a problem that's causing the outside unit to cut in and out based on a faulty signal from your electric utility.
Check/change your inside air filter to make sure it's not blocked with dust/debris that's limiting airflow.
Check your outside unit to make sure the coils are clean and aren't being blocked.  If your coils look quite dusty/dirty, take a hose and spray out the dust and dirt.  DO NOT use a pressure washer as that puts too much force onto the aluminum fins and will cause them to bend and become less efficient in transferring heat away.

But, as others have suggested based on your comment about the outside compressor turning on and off every 3-5 minutes or so, it sounds like something that needs a professional to look at as the most likely scenario would be a coolant leak, which requires a professional to diagnose and repair.


What should base kitchen cabinets sit on top of? Why? Why not? We are renovating our kitchen.
We are ripping up the existing tiled floor. We are going to be installing IKEA cabinets.

Should I install the cabinets on top of the subfloor? Or should I install the cabinets on top of a finished floor (wood, tile, linoleum, etc.)

Why? Pros/Cons?

Always an interesting choice. Most new construction puts cabinets on the subfloor. One of the reasons for doing this is to avoid damaging the new floors during construction. Floors are one of the last items to complete so it is much easier to install cabinets first.  The downside is that when a future remodeling is done, the footprint of the old cabinets rarely matches the new plan. Now you are faced with stitching gaps in the floor, matching color, materialt etc. The other consideration is that if the flooring is thick, like hardwood or ceramic tile, it locks the base cabinets in place and they can be very hard to remove if for some reason one needs repair or replacement. This method is most common however.
The second option is to lay the floor first and install the base cabinets on top of the finished floor. I personally like this method if using a very long lasting durable floor like hardwood or upscale tile. I would not do this over vinyl or cheap flooring that will not outlast the cabinets.  For a DIYer, this method can be much easier. There is much less detailed cutting and fitting around cabinets, the fit to the walls does not need to be perfect where it is hidden by the cabinets, and less trim may be required along kick panels. If the footprint of the cabinet layout is complicated with lots of different depths, or if islands are involved, this method is popular.

So, there is really no right or wrong. The decision depends on the kind of flooring you select, grade of cabinets, and long range expectations.
Side note: Kitchen cabinets are one of the most important fixtures in your home. They get a lot of use and abuse. A good investment is to purchase the best quality your budget can handle. I am not a fan of IKEA products. They do offer lots of bells and whistles for budget minded consumers, but the intrinsic quality does not compare to even mid grade cabinets constructed with hardwood frames, five piece boxes etc,  fastened together with glue and screws and have quality drawer slides and door hinges etc.