Jigsaw Blade for Hardibacker I am cutting some 1/2" Hardibacker into some 2" x 32" sections.  I tried using a 6 TPI wood jigsaw blade but the blades are not lasting very long.  Does anyone know if a diamond tipped or carbide tipped would last longer?

Score with a utility knife, clamp between scraps of wood, and snap.

If you don't have enough extra length to snap with, the best tool I've found is a grinder with a diamond blade. (Use outdoors with appropriate PPE.)

If you have to use a jigsaw blade, then yes, the grit ones will certainly outlast a wood blade, but not by much. (And maybe not enough to justify the added cost.)


Why do my fluorescent lights flicker and require cycling the switch to turn on? Bathroom has a 2 T-Fluorescent bulb fixture. The bulbs went out a 2-3 years ago I believe for the first time in 10+ years (when the fixture was installed). From the moment the bulb were installed, the lighting seemed peculiar. They have this extremely quick strobing effect so the light is not a solidly emitted. Fast forward to about a month ago and the bulbs had trouble turning on and the bulbs would stay dim at the ends or flicker a bit signifying that there is at least an electrical signal. One of the bulbs also has one black end if that means anything. Would need to flip the switch several times before the bulbs would fully light up, however once on they wouldn't go out.

So I did some research and I thought maybe the fixture and ballast is old and needs replacement. My dad says I just need to change the bulbs, but seeing as though I changed them quite recently (these bulbs are supposed to last tens of thousands of hours and we use them maybe an hour a day at most?), I didn't think that was likely. I thought at first perhaps I used t12 instead of t8 but just confirmed that the ballast states t12.

So now the bulbs won't light up unless we flick the switch several times. I don't really know anything about lighting at all, but I think the key fact is that the bulbs are STILL WORKING, and they both had problems at the same time, so I have to assume the bulbs are not dead, which is the most confusing part. Do fluorescents tend to malfunction rather than straight out die at the end of their life?

Can someone with expertise give their best opinion as to what's going on? Do these low-medium end fixtures tend to wear out after 15 years?

Thanks for your answers in advance.

One of the bulbs also has one black end if that means anything.

That means it is an old fluorescent tube approaching the end of its life. Generally the end gets darker and darker over time. This is an effect of the starting process eroding the filament at one end.

  Do these low-medium end fixtures tend to wear out after 15 years?

No, they can keep going for much longer but some (many) will fail early and a few will last unexpectedly long.

Older installations used a starter that is worth replacing if you have problems.

I would test the tubes in another fitting that is working well (note: you can probably buy a cheap fitting for $10 and just use that for testing tubes)


Dryer vent through band joist between 1st and 2nd floor My washer and dryer are located on the second floor of a two floor townhouse with crawlspace foundation. It's basically a closet that fits the two machines only, with very limited space front to back ( probably 2 inches from the back wall to the backs of the machines, and about 2-3 inches from the front of the machines to the doors.
This place was built in the 1980s, and the dryer duct that pokes through the wall is white and plastic looking.
The current dryer duct runs from a hole in the wall, near the floor, through a hole in the floor,  down through some 2x4 wall on the first floor (unsure which one), and runs beneath the first floor (in the crawlspace). The first floor is held up with open trusses.
Had the duct cleaned a few months ago and the technician said this was all kinds of wrong and needed replacing.
I've had a couple duct cleaning companies that also do duct installations come by to provide ideas for what next.

One contractor said to run a duct vertically along the laundry room closet (visible), pop a hole into the attic, and then a 90 degree turn out the side. Possible issue: vent would exhaust right over my neighbor's patio.
Second contractor said to run a duct vertically in laundry room (did not mention in the wall or visible) and go through the roof. Then hedged by saying he didn't really like dealing with roofs. Also quoted over $1000 to do the work (located in oh-so-expensive NYC metro).

Personally, I'd prefer if we didn't fight gravity here, and wanted to know if the following is feasible:

90 degree vertical drop into floor truss cavity
A few inches of straight pipe followed by another 90 degree turn horizontal or another 90 degree turn immediately depending on depth (i think my floor truss is 10" deep)
Run duct a few feet horizontally towards the back of my house (away from neighbor's patio)
90 degree horizontal turn toward exterior wall
straight pipe through band joist and to the exterior vent.

(I suppose since I have open web trusses I could also make the horizontal runs more diagonal towards the exterior as well as using softer angle turns as necessary)
Sample drawing:

My questions for this would be:

Is this code-compliant?
Can I cut through the band joist in between floors without concern?
Will my neighbor get lint on her patio anyway?

Since you have floor trusses your plan should be fine. There is usually only a top board 2x4 that holds the trusses on layout and locks the ends together .

Picture credit
You should have ample space below that chord to cut in a dryer vent with not problem


How to create a peephole in a door without a hole? the entrance door is without hole, but I would like to be with a peephole. How we can create this

If when you say the door is without a hole, but you are allowed to drill one then it is a question of deciding the height and a suitable diameter.
If you cannot drill a hole then some sort of miniature camera will be needed...
When drilling a hole through the door, making sure you go through square is crucial and a tiny pilot hole then drilling from both sides gets a clean hole - at least in my experience.
Here is one possibility: Peephole on Amazon


The right-handed (RH) thread vs the left-handed (LH) thread in screws I know that there are screws with these features and know how to distinguish them. Usually there are screws on the right thread.

When and what type of screws should I use?

Differences:

Righty Tighty, Lefty loosey doesn't work with left-handed screws.
Right-handed screws move away from you if you rotate them in a clockwise direction, whereas left-handed screws move towards you.

When to Use Left-Handed Screws
When fretting induced precession would cause the right-handed nut/screw to loosen, a left handed nut/screw should be used.


How can I repair and waterproof a large crack in my foundation wall? I recently just bought a house which was nice at first!  Now after 5 month, it is now spring. We had a good rainfall which flooded my basement from the floor up because of a high water table (sump pump runs quite frequently) and a Crack in a corner in the floor. When digging the next day on the exterior of the basement wall,  we found that one of the cracks in the foundation is actually worse when uncovered! This Crack is the size of the whole basement foundation (roughly 6 ft vertical) along with a decent hole.

Repair:

Is it OK to fill up the gap inside the cement block all the way up the wall with cement

Any other solutions you guys can provide

If your question is simply "is it ok", sure, it's ok. It may not seal the leak, though, and it may crack again if your home experiences seasonal movement due to an inadequately deep foundation or other issues.

You should probably consult with a local expert to find a solution that's appropriate for your climate and soil, and not throw darts at the problem. An exterior patch along with a waterproof membrane might be cheaper, easier, and less expensive, for example.


Why does the gas furnace blow cold air at the start of the heating cycle? What does this problem sound like?

There is a 25 year old gas furnace in the house we rent.
(The guy that owns the place claims there is NO problem at all.  He said the igniter is brand new and working fine.)

It blows cold air for the first 10 minutes of each heating cycle.
(Sometimes this happens for 30-60 minutes.)
Then heat starts to appear fine.

The "blowing cold airs" periods eventually get shorter and shorter... as the "blowing hot air" periods
get longer...  and eventually, after 3-4 hours, the home is at the desired temperature.

Perhaps a thermostat problem?
    Does the average thermostat independently control the "on/off fan" and the "on/off flame" events?'
    Perhaps the "flame on" part of the thermostat is bad or incorrectly adjusted?

Perhaps a furnace problem?
    Is there some timer-device that decides how long to wait between "fan on" and "flame on" events?
    Perhaps this delay is set too long?  Or the device is bad?

Another (perhaps totally unrelated) thing:
The problem seems worse when the furnace is trying to heat the place from 60 degrees, up to a thermostat setting of 70.
(Yes, it gets THAT cold in here sometimes.)

It seems to happen less often... when trying to heat the house from 75... up to a thermostat setting of 85.  (Yes, have to set things VERY high, to lessen
this problem.)

Can you look at the furnace during the time it is blowing cold air and see if the flame is on?

The thermostat has the ability to control the fan, but typically the thermostat sends a "turn heat on" signal to the furnace and the furnace controls are setup to turn the flame on for a X amount of time (to warm up the air) and then turn on the fan once the timer expired (so the air coming out of the vents is not cold).  When the heat is turned on is the flame and fan going on at the same time?

Not sure about your furnace, but some have a couple of LEDs that are lit up and can be used to read a status  or error codes.  If you have the manual you could try to decipher the code while the cold air is running and see if it gives you a clue.

I would start by trying to figure out if the problem is with the thermostat or the furnace by installing a new thermostat and seeing if the problem goes away.  If the problem is still there you can just return it.  I had a furnace issue where it was going off randomly and would work in heat mode but not cool mode. It turned out that the thermostat was bad and sending intermittent signals.


What is the meaning of the term "trade size" While shopping for electrical parts for the next project, I keep seeing the term Trade Size.  What exactly is this a measure of?

It simply means what the item is referred to in size, .vs. what any actual dimension may be. "Nominal" size means the same thing.

So, 1/2" EMT (for example) is 0.706" on the outside and 0.622" on the inside, and 0.500" nowhere.


What is the material and how to seal it? As you can see In the photo the layer (paint?) on my bathroom ceiling has fallen off.

I think the red/brownish colour part is off-gassing a smell.  Does anybody know what material this is and be what it is off-gassing exactly?

How do I seal this smell in?  Will any paint work/reduce it to negligible levels or does this material/ceiling require some sort of purpose built sealant (is that the thing that’s coming off?).

Once the paint or sealant has been applied, generally speaking how long before most of the smell will go?

<img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/krTB9.jpg" alt="
" />

The painted coating (it looks to be at least the most recent coat of paint and an additional layer below, of either paint or primer) has obviously failed. The cause of the failure is most likely inadequate surface preparation prior to application, exacerbated by high-humidity conditions.
It is very unlikely that the ceiling plaster itself is "off-gassing" or that it is, in and of itself, the cause of any odor. What is likely is that the odor is mildew growth, of which there are some tell-tale signs of along the edge of the wall.
You need to:

strip all unsound material
chemically kill all mildew (there are various methods; I use dilute bleach
sand the entire substrate (while also patching any gaps and defects such as the linear crack where the wall meets the ceiling)
clean/wash the entire area
properly prime and paint using high quality paint products and professional grade applicators

NOTE- a special bonding primer (e.g. shellac) is not necessary if you prep the job as described.
NOTE- a paint with a sheen, such as gloss or semi-gloss, would tend to resist problems associated with moisture better than flat paints.
NOTE- pro-grade applicators and high-quality paints result in a better looking, better performing, and easier job.
NOTE- for longevity and bio-growth prevention, you should ensure there is adequate ventilation. Now is the time to consider upgrading your exhaust fan.


Two switches, two lights, one light always on. I would like to use two switches to operate two lights, where as one light goes off the other light goes on so there is always one light on. When you flip either switch one light turns on and the other turns off.

This is easier than it sounds

Basically, what you want here is an "open ended" multi-way switch, where each light is wired to a traveler.

In other words, you wire up a 3-way and a 4-way location to each other and to power as normal, but leave the load-side 3-way off.  Instead, the two "travelers" from the load side of the 4-way location are turned into switched hots, one for each light.

The downside is that you'll need to turn this arrangement off at the breaker to change a lightbulb, unless you provide a separate disconnect switch somewhere in the line feed to this funky setup.


Soundproofing garden New houses have been built at the back of my house and they are very noisy.
I want to build an outside wall to get some sort of protection.

I currently have a standard fence panel and a Hawthorn hedge behind it but it makes very little difference.

I live in the UK, in the Cotswold region and these are the stones I am likely to use:

Will I be more soundproof?

As far as I know the more jagged and porous the material is the better. In our library, there is porous material put on walls which are faced toward the source of the sound so that it eliminates reflection. Maybe I would try eliminating those reflections between your house and the fence. But given it is in an open space I doubt it will be significant enough.

If you are very serious about it, try active noise reduction: ANC - wiki


How to improve light quality from a bathroom exhaust fan? I have an interior bathroom with no windows.  In the ceiling is a NuTone 763RLN exhaust fan with light bulb fixture.

This unit was built in 2003, so the only light bulb specification provided is "100 watts (max) [incandescent]".  However, the light emitted from a 100 watt incandescent bulb is very yellow for a bathroom with no windows.  I would like to find a solution that produces a "neutral white" (~3500K) light that is at least as bright as a 100 watt incandescent (1200-1600 lumens).

My concern is, of course, that a CFL or LED bulb is going to die quickly in an enclosed fixture that vibrates.

How do I find a solution to this?

I have already replaced the plastic lens that came with the exhaust fan.  The original, 13-year-old lens had yellowed.  The new lens improves the light quality, but not enough.  (I'm trying to avoid repainting the bathroom before putting the home on the market.)

I have already tried a low-wattage CFL that is designed for enclosed fixtures.  In this category, I have only found low output bulbs (800 lumens).  This is not enough to be an improvement.

Basically I am wondering if there are ways to mitigate the heat build-up and vibration in this environment.  Or I'm looking for assurance that a certain type of bulb will last longer, under these conditions, than I am led to believe by the bulb documentation.

Alternatively, perhaps I could find an even better type of lens to cover the bulb enclosure.  The new one that I just purchased is translucent, color-neutral plastic.  Perhaps somebody makes a compatible lens that transmits the light of an incandescent 100 watt bulb in a more pleasing way.

You need a Daylight, Natural Light or Full Spectrum Bulb, going to Cool White is only a slight improvement & may be what you have now (Soft White & Cool White color is 2500K to 3000K). You'll need to check the package's or box's stated ratings, listing the color as 4500K up to 6500K.

GE & Phillips have a single incandescent option, though the CFL's have a wider offering. This is an enclosed fixture & not a sealed fixture so either of these will & do work perfectly fine, LED's will not. However, overall bulb length may be limited by the fixture & incandescent may be your only choice.


Allowing basement floor to breathe I'm working on remodeling a basement and the plan for now is to install a subfloor (XPS rigid insulation and plywood on top of that). For the actual floor, I was thinking of using vinyl planks that click together to form a floor.

A contractor I hired to help me suggested that perhaps vinyl is not the best solution for this for the following reason: since some moisture will come up through the concrete floor, the vinyl would function as a vapor barrier and the plywood would soak it up, and rot. He suggested that I put in a wood floor in instead.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Is this the correct way to go? What other kinds of materials could I use on the floor to keep things "breathable"?

I don't get water in the basement. I just had drain tiles installed along w/ a sump pump. The basement is only half underground too (4 ft).

Honestly if you have a contractor talking about basement flooring in a basement were there is a fear of moisture I would fire him on the spot if he mentioned installing real wood floors.  Even in a basement with no "water" problems the humidity levels can reek havoc on wood and warp it.  I see a bad wood install in a basement a couple times a year.  I can't tell you the last time I saw a good wood install in a basement.

XPS and plywood can work in a lot of cases.  However most of the time we carpet over this type of install.  For real vinyl click lock - the good kind that is thick and pure rubber... we slap this right down on the concrete with no barrier per manufacturers instructions.  If you give me a link to the flooring you are getting I can get more specific.


Can I control two lamps from one pullchain? I have two bedside swag lamps, one on each side of the bed. Each one has a plug that goes into the wall.  They each have a pull chain for use in turning them on.   I would like it if, when I pull the chain on one lamp, they both would turn on.  Is this even possible and if so how would I accomplish it?  I am hoping there is some special plug I can buy, plug both lamps into it and be done...

A simple solution would be to use a surge protector outlet with master control. This would be a power strip that has one outlet labelled master, some others labeled master controlled, and some that are always on. The master outlet is monitored for when that device is consuming power, and the master controlled ones will only be on when the master device is on. These are typically used with computers, where the tower is plugged in as master, and peripherals as controlled, so that for example, speakers and monitors are only on when the computer is on as well.
So in your case, you would plug one lamp into the master outlet, and the other into one of the master controlled ones. Since your lamps are next to the bed, the power strip can be in the middle behind / underneath the bed.
Here is an example of what one of these looks like (not endorsing a particular brand, there are many different ones available). In this case, plug one lamp into the solid green, and one into the green outlines outlet. When the lamp plugged into solid green is on, the other one will turn on as well.


Exposed Aggregate Concrete Walkway - replacement or pour over I have a large exposed aggregate concrete walkway that goes to my backyard patio and it has partitions in between (maybe granite?).  I live in an older 60's bungalow and I assume the walkway is original and it is well past it's life span.  It is very difficult to walk on and chipping-away.  I am wondering if it is possible to go over it with concrete and if the concrete will bond. I am looking for a more modern look.  Any options or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

My suggestion would be to blast away the surface dirt with a pressure washer, then clean it off with something strong like muriatic acid. (Or hire a neighborhood teen to do it. ;-> )  Then apply concrete bonding agent and leveling compound. Leveling compound is pricey, but it can be applied in thin sheets and it sets up fast (very, very fast).

You'll have to put some sort of forms up, but you can use cut up cardboard boxes, because you're only adding 1/8" (3 mm) or less to the thickness.

If you DIY this, please, please do an experiment with about 1 square foot of compound on some cardboard or something, first. It's really a mix-pour-spread-set product, so you want to be ready.


Half of furnace turned off? I moved into this house about 10 years ago, I noticed on the furnace that one of the breakers for the electric coils is off with a note saying "Leave breaker off". After cleaning out the blower for the first time, and the electric coils of course my curiosity got the best of me and I turned it on. After the smell of burnt dust from the sitting coil its running fine. It's been completely off for years.. can't believe I never noticed it. Why would somebody keep half of the furnace off?

If it's been working fine with it off, I'd leave it off. That way you always have a backup. 2 60 amp double pole breakers, that's a lot of juice. The incoming wire may be two small. Or if your house is a 100 amp service it could trip your main breaker.

How cheap is electricity where you live? I'd freeze before I ran that thing here in Toronto.


What is the typical dishwasher/disposer electrical connection? I need to provide power to a instant hot water dispenser that I recently installed myself in our circa 1950 home.  I'm about to have my dishwasher replaced and am wondering what the typical electrical connection is provided behind dishwashers so I can be prepared with the right parts when the dishwasher installers arrive.

I attempted sliding the dishwasher out myself to check, but it seems that I probably need to at minimum remove the copper hot water pipe, which is more of a project than I'd like.  Is there typically a standard dual outlet behind the dishwasher?

Dishwashers can be either hardwired, or cord-and-plug connected. Check the owners manual of the unit you have, but in most cases the decision is left to the installer.

From a random Maytag Dishwasher Installation Guide (PDF)

In newer homes you'll commonly find a 125V NEMA 5-15R receptacle supplied by a 20 ampere circuit, used to supply a dishwasher and disposer. In this case, the receptacle is typically installed in the cabinet under the sink.  If you don't have a receptacle under the sink, it's not likely that the dishwasher is cord-and-plug attached.
The National Electrical Code, specifies that all outlets must be accessible. Because of this, a receptacle installed in a location that requires the removal of the dishwasher is not code compliant. i.e. If you can't find where the dishwasher is plugged in, it's likely hardwired.
Checking the wiring for the disposal, might give you some clues as to how things are wired.
You might also find This answer useful, when trying to figure out what you can connect to the circuit.

Code that allows Garburators and dishwashers to be cord-and-plug-connected

National Electrical Code 2014
Article 422 Appliances
II. Installation
422.16 Flexible Cords.
(B) Specific Appliances.
(1) Electrically Operated Kitchen Waste Disposers. Electrically operated kitchen waste disposers shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer, where all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a groundingtype attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall not be less than 450 mm (18 in.) and not over 900 mm (36 in.).
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be accessible.
(2) Built-in Dishwashers and Trash Compactors. Built-in dishwashers and trash compactors shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected with a flexible cord identified as suitable for the purpose in the installation instructions of the appliance manufacturer where all of the following conditions are met:
(1) The flexible cord shall be terminated with a grounding type attachment plug.
(2) The length of the cord shall be 0.9 m to 1.2 m (3 ft to 4 ft) measured from the face of the attachment plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance.
(3) Receptacles shall be located to avoid physical damage to the flexible cord.
(4) The receptacle shall be located in the space occupied by the appliance or adjacent thereto.
(5) The receptacle shall be accessible.


Is it better to have acrylic window inserts than storm windows for soundproofing? We live on a busy street and would like to soundproof the windows facing the street. After some research, we've boiled down to either storm windows or acrylic glass. The latter is more expensive, but will the storm windows be enough to block the noise? If so, which storm windows would you recommend (what we found mostly have aluminum frames)?

Although this may be some what an opinion based question shopping questions are off topic. Storm windows create a extra air chamber and do a good job of dampening outside sound if properly installed.
I don’t know if I would want acrylic windows unless sandwiched with glass because acrylic scratches so easily but you may be talking about a window technology I am unaware of.


Outdoor outlet to outlet wiring I'd like to know if this can be done safely. If I have a 12/3 extension cord plugged into a covered outdoor outlet, can I wire the other end into a (new) switched outlet? (the length would be about six feet) I know stranded wire is not the preferred type, but I have a tight area in which to work. Proposed outlet is a GE 20A backyard version.
(please, no gasping, I haven't done anything yet)

20 Amp Backyard Outlet with Switch and GFI Receptacle

There's no problem with using stranded wire, as long as it's properly sized. The problem with your plan, is that you want to use an extension cord.

An extension cord is meant to be used as a temporary wiring method, with the cord intact and undamaged. Once you cut the end off the cord, the cord is no longer UL listed, and cannot be used in a code compliant manner.

You can use any cable or wire that is listed for wet/outdoor locations, whether it be solid or stranded wires.  Underground Feeder (type UF) cable is a common choice, if you want to use cable.  If you choose to use cable, you'll have to make sure that it's protected from physical damage.

THWN wire would be acceptable, if you want to run it through conduit.


Estimate ROI of installing battery pack like the Powerwall The power company charges more for power during peak hours than at night. In theory, a wall-mounted battery like the Powerwall or several competitors could help mitigate this by drawing power when it is cheap and then emitting it - either back to the grid or to the home - as necessary when power is more expensive.

It is my understanding that batteries also increase the resilience and reliability of the power grid.

Are there any resources that will help me estimate the useful life and estimated return on a battery, based on state and power utility? I don't have solar panels which doesn't help.

I've looked into the ROI of batteries and solar and I haven't found something as nice as an online calculator, but a search for "Powerwall Return on Investment" does pull up several blogs and studies about the topic such as this paper on the Stanford website.

  We will now calculate the yearly cost of electricity for a family consuming 20 kWh Off-Peak, 0 kWh Peak, and 10 kWh Partial Peak for the entire year for each state average, A.

  Cost Per Day  =   (20 kWh × (1 -.202) + 0 kWh × (1 + 0.819) + 10 kWh × (1 + 0.202)) ×
  =   27.98 kWh × A

  Cost Per Year =   365 days/year × Cost Per Day
  This means that in California, the cost Per year using our PowerWall 2 strategy would be $0.188 kWh × 27.98 kWh day × 365 days year = $1919.98 year.

That's the type of calculations that you need to do.  From what I've read you're looking at anywhere from 8-12 years to recoup the investment on this or a solar install.

My personal opinion is that this is a cool thing to do as a hobby and it may eventually pay for itself, but there are so many better ways to "invest" money.  Look at typical 10 year returns on any other $7k investment.  Another thing to keep in mind as you read is that most of these "studies" ignore battery degradation to simplify the calculations and they assume electric prices will be constant for 10 years (ha!).  And then what about the install costs?  And what if anything needs to be replaced or diagnosed?


Different appliances for a kitchen in stainless I am redoing my kitchen and looking for the best reviews of the various appliances. If I get them all in stainless, but from different manufacturers, will they match? Or do different companies have different stainless finishes that could clash?

Different companies and even lines within companies use various grades and finishes of stainless. There aren't so many that you can't get pretty good matches. A lot of appliances these days are white label and will actually be the same unit with different bezels. That is particularly true with front-load washers but is seen across the appliance industry.


wall heaters running even after thermostat reaches set temp I have wall heater units connected to a thermostat.  The room reaches temperature but heaters keep running.  Have reprogrammed thermostat several times without success

If you have hot water fan units it's common for the hot water to be controlled by the thermostat, but the fan in the unit is controlled by a switch that turns it on when the water to the unit gets hot, and off when the water gets cool, so the fan may run for some time after the circulation is shut off. i.e. that would be considered normal behavior.


Can I have a sub panel right below the attic access? I'm rewiring an old house where I've already installed a 50 amp sub-panel. Now the carpenter decided to put his attic access in the ceiling right above the panel is this permissible.

As Steven said, it depends on the applicable code. I doubt any code is going to be that specific. So it will be up to the local authority having jurisdiction to interpret what the code does say and decide if it applies to your situation. As such, no one here can accurately answer this unless they happen to represent your LAHJ.

For example, the NEC simply says that over-current devices be readily accessible. Readily accessible in part is defined as devices need to be able to be quickly operated without the need to remove any obstacles. So the attic access alone would seem to comply as it does not affect access to the breakers.

However, to effectively use an attic access, one must place a ladder, which could block access to the breakers, requiring removal before operation is possible. This would cause the panel location to not comply.

In cases of contradicting interpretations, the LAHJ must decide what interpretation best represents the code's intent. Since access to breakers could be most important when someone is working in the attic with a ladder in place, I personally would rule that this arrangement is not in compliance. But I am not your LAHJ.

The short answer is you have to ask your electrical inspector.


How do I properly frame an opening to angle a through-wall air conditioner? I'm going to install a through-wall air conditioner using a purpose-built sleeve.  The instructions from the manufacturer say to install it such that it angles slightly downwards to the outside (about six degrees) so any condensation or rainwater will run off and drain outside the house.

All the instructions and how-to guides I've read show the framing (header, supporting studs, etc.) installed level and at right angles.  The only thing I've seen that gives any indication of how to properly arrange the frame to support the downward installation is to install the header 1/4" above the actual size needed for the sleeve opening so that it falls back and down to the outside a bit.

Is this the correct way to do this?  Should the sleeve be shimmed at the bottom or should the horizontal studs be installed at a slight angle so the sleeve sits flush with the header and horizontal support stud?

I haven't done this before so any insight on how to get the installation angle correct and still maintain a proper safe and secure installation is appreciated.

It's much easier to check that something is level than to check that something is 6 degrees or 1/4 inch higher.

Build it level. Then add a 1/4 inch strip of wood (a length of lath or trim) across the inside edge of the horizontal framing member.

You are correct that the sleeve will be sitting on two edges, the added trim strip and the outside edge of the exterior horizontal member. But the air conditiner is quite rigid and the sleeve sufficiently so to resist flex. The weight is not so great that the boards will be compressed or the machine flexed.


Light switch auto turns off but not on I have a Leviton light switch (picture). It automatically turns off after about 15 mins of absence of motion and will turn on if I enter the room only a few minutes after it has turned off.
However, if a long enough period elapses it won't automatically turn on and I have to press the button again.
Is there a setting to change so it automatically turns on by itself at any time?
Update: on the inner metal plate it says: "Cat. No. IPV15"

Depends on the model. That looks like an IPS05 or and IPV05. The IPV05 is manual on only, the IPS05 will act as manual on if the ambient light level dial behind the face of the device is set to 0.
There are also models that instead of dials have a row of tiny slide switches called dip switches that control the vacancy/occupancy operation and the on/off time delay.
The sensitivity dials or dip switches are usually located behind the pushbutton.  If it is an IPV05/IPS05 to access the controls first you need to remove the trim cover, then gently push down and pull forward on the tiny tabs that on the top of the plastic that hold the button assembly to the switch.


Relocate central air conditioners to roof We recently moved into a house, and we've noticed that the central air conditioners take up valuable space, not only with their footprint, but also they will likely blow hot air during use, making anything nearby uncomfortable to use.

My question: Is it feasible to relocate the air conditioners to the roof (near satellite dish)? If so, is this a bad idea for any reason, cost aside? I'm thinking there are probably four main concerns:

air conditioners being more exposed to elements (I would think not a big deal, since they are already pretty exposed)
ensuring the structure can hold the weight (not sure if it's possible to roughly estimate without a contractor)
reroute electrical (I would think doable)
reroute coolant lines (no idea, I know nothing about HVAC stuff)

To be clear: I am not going to do this myself; I will hire a professional. I just wanted to get unbiased opinions from the esteemed Stack Exchange community before talking to contractors. Thanks in advance!

I like it! On the roof isn't enough, let's put it on the roof of the roof's bump-out room. NICE!

Then, you'll need to add a tiny access bump-out on that roof...just a cherry on top of my thinking, instead of hauling out a ladder.

Yep, you're good to go and any structural issues could be fairly cheap and quick for their few hundred pounds by just doubling-up the rafters...pretty doubtful it would be needed.

It's definitely pricey and quite involved, but can absolutely be fully accomplished. You could even do a pretty little widow's walk style fence up there to beautify it. Not impeding air-flow is important, but shading the sides from the Sun is a performance and efficiency booster.


what kind of cable connector do I use on an outdoor junction box? I'm planning on installing an outdoor light in a place that does not currently have one using an outdoor box like this.  The "knockout" is threaded, I think it is 1/2".  What kind of cable connector do I use with this?  It is ok to make a hole in the wall (wood and metal flashing) and run Romex from the inside of the house into this box?

According to this video from homedepot.com and this page from thisoldhouse.com I can use a standard metallic threaded cable connector like this one  The thisoldhouse.com page also mentions using Romex from the inside through the wall to the box outside.


How can I attach a 3.5" mounting plate to a 2.75" round electrical box? I have an IKEA Ostana wall light with a 3.5" wall plate that I'm trying to attach to a electrical box in the wall with only two screw holes 2.75" apart. I've looked around but can't seem to find a simple way to get these to fit; even if I had a metal adapter plate with screw holes in the proper spots, the screws from the Ostana mounting plate go right about where the drywall ends in the wall. What should I be looking for?
I don't have the tools (power drill, work bench, clamps, etc) right now to machine holes into the Ostana wall plate, which would be an okay option except then I couldn't turn the light in certain orientations.

Use the universal crossbar and drill (or punch) holes through the drywall where the mounting screws for the fixture will land. The canopy that came with the fixture should cover the whole area.


How to change switched outlets to half switched and half always hot I'm trying to make my two switched outlets to be half hot. I tried breaking the brass tab on outlet 1 to accomplish that but that didn't work. It only made one receptacle work from the switch while the other didn't work at all. It also caused outlet 2 to not work at all. I don't know if it's the current wiring or if it's just not possible at all. Help please!!

You should not have broken off the tabs on the hot sides of the receptacles unless you had an always hot in the receptacle boxes.

If you want to restore the existing function without buying new receptacles, you can

(1) make a pair of pigtails with black or red insulated wire and connect to the two hot screws and connect the switched hot to that with a wire nut or

(2) make a loop with the one switched hot wire over to the other screw and strip off a little of the insulation, or

(3) if the receptacle has back wiring secured by a screw (not just push in) you can connect a jumper (insulated black or red) in the back holes


protecting electrical wires below 8' in open framing garage how do I protect electrical wires run horizontally below 8' in open framing garage? its all done already, I have lots of scrap plywood and 2x4s, I was hoping to run horiz plywood strips 6" wide for protection.

Code allows wires in the stud bays below 8'  to be protected with 1/2" sheetrock or plywood. Since you are talking a horizontal run I am not sure if 6" strip would be legal because you could still access the wire, I usually cover the entire wall.


Ring Doorbell - upgrade chime and transformer? My SO purchased a Ring Video Doorbell Pro for our home recently.  I began researching, and it states that the ring requires a power source that supplies a minimum of 16 volts AC at ~20 volt-amps when connected directly to a transformer, plug-in adapter, or ~30 volt-amps when used with an internal doorbell.

I looked at my existing doorbell, and imprinted on it is: Rittenhouse Model 225 - 10v.  I found what appears to be the transformer, also labeled with 10v.  These look like they could possibly be original to the home (1956).  A few questions I have:

Is it worth replacing both the transformer and the chime itself just for this Ring to work? If I replace both, will the wiring between the transformer and the chime be able to handle the increased power running through the wires?
Ive read people say " can use a 16v 20va Transformer if there is no chime involved." What exactly does that mean?

I do want to use the doorbell, but I also don't want to stress the electrical system of the house to do so. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

The amount of voltage and power that we are talking about here is too low to worry about stressing the wires or any other part of the system so don't worry about that.

The Ring will require a "modern" doorbell transformer, so that needs to be replaced for sure.  The old chime will likely not work with a 16v transformer if it was made for 10v.  It might work for a little bit, but it will sound funny and will probably fail quickly with the extra voltage.  What I'm getting at is you probably want to replace the transformer and the chime.  These are relatively cheap, so that shouldn't be a big deal.

The existing wiring should be fine, but be very careful with it as to not damage the insulation.  That can get brittle over 60 years time so move the wires as little as possible.  The low voltage won't cause a fire or a shock, but it can ruin the transformer if the wires have cracked insulation and start to short out.


How to I repair moulding damaged by Blue Scotch tape? I put blue scotch tape on my laminate moulding to protect it when I was painting the trim.  I wasn't able to paint the room all in one weekend, and as things go, it took a few weekends to finish the job.  When I removed the tape it pulled off the laminate covering.

I'd rather not replace the moulding.  Is there a good way to repair this?

Click for full size image

Your best bet then would to get an artist brush and acrylic paint from an art supply or craft store. That can be blended to get the color you need to touch it in, though replacing it would be my choice to do. All told it would take less time, and about the same cost, if you have the cutting tools.


Any way to permanently seal natural stone slate tile floor? This is the kitchen, hallway and bathroom floor of the house I’ve bought.  I’m probably going to keep it due to the time and expense to replace it.  Being rough and slately it really attracts the grime and dust.  I know I need to give it a good cleaning, but after that is there a way to seal it for the long term? Can I do layers of polyurethane like a wood floor? The few stone seals I’ve looked at all say to re-seal every couple years.  Can I do it once?  Aesthetically I don’t mind if it gets glossy.  Chemical / odors while curing aren’t a concern because nobody will be living there for at least a month.

UPDATE: After cleaning it for 2 days it was finally ready to seal.  I used a similar penetrating sealer product to the first answer, but the Custom brand instead of the Laticrete one.  'Enrich n Seal' for natural stone and was the most expensive one at the store.  A couple bottles, 2 coats, and it looked amazing.  It took a couple days to really dry and still is a little waxy.  Its not glossy, but looks wet (darker) and makes colors of the stone stand out.  It can scratch and that just leaves some white waxy reside that is easy to buff out.  I've mopped it a couple times since and its still looking good. Repels water, and paint drops too.  Getting some on the baseboard has made it impossible to paint, so if you use it be careful on any surface you want to paint later or else be ready to sand it off.   I still don't know how this holds up over time, but I had to do something, and won't know how it holds up for a few years.

There are long-term penetrating sealers that tend to last longer than the usual water-based sealants, but they generally do not create a top-coat.  Look for "penetrating" or "impregnating" sealers.

If you're trying to add a topical sealant (like urethane on wood), those also exist.  I believe they're usually wax-based, though, and I'm not sure how long they would last before you need to recoat.  Probably every couple of years, like fixer1234 said.  For those products, you would look for a "sealer and finish".  You may also be able to use something like a masonry sealer for concrete, but I would check product packaging beforehand.


What size air hose would a mechanic's garage require? I'm looking for a retractable air hose for my husband as a birthday present...he is an airplane mechanic and has many air tools, also has a large air compressor already (not sure of the hp, but it is 220 volt). I have my eye on a unit called Zillareel that offers 150 psi,(another unit offers 300 psi) would that be enough to psi to supply the air for anything my husband would need?

You need to understand the pressure figures you are referring to. What you are probably referencing is the pressure rating of the reel units, this is the pressure they can operate at safely (without the hose bursting or some other unfortunate dangerous failure).

The air delivery capacity will be expressed by a quantity per unit of time, like "liters per minute" or "cubic feet per minute". Generally, larger hose can deliver more air and some types of tools need a lot of air (like rotary air tools). Can you find out what pressure he operates his unit at? If I were you I would default to the old idea that "bigger is better", or just ask him which one he would like. Most men very much appreciate nice tools for gifts, whether or not it is a suprise.


30yo water heater replacement options for a small condo I bought a small condo under 500 sq.ft., with a 30y.o. rusty, leaking and smelling electric water heater (w/ 30G tank). The water heater is, obviously, to be replaced. Hot water is consumed by 1 shower, 1 bathroom faucet, 1 compact washer, 1 dishwasher and 1 kitchen faucet.

I see the following options:

Single water heater with tank. Replace for the almost same model,
but new.
Single tankless water heater, to save some space in the utility closet.
Single heatpump water heater with a tank.
Multiple (5) point-of-use tank-less water heaters, installed right where it is needed: near shower, faucets, dishwasher and
washing machine.

I need help deciding between those options. What are the main factors, by which do I compare those options?

Here is the preliminary research I did:
1. I started with: cost of the unit, cost to install, cost to operate, noise and projected lifetime.
2. The approximate water flows are: 1.5 GPM for faucets and dishwasher; 3.0 GPM for shower; 2.5 GPM for the washing machine. + 1 GPM extra.
3. My ground water temperature is 52degF.

1 is: $300 for the heater, $1200 for professional installation. $300 for DIY. Noise: very small. If previous water heater survived 30 years, then almost no maintenance is required for another 10-15 years.

2 Tankless can run about $530 (Ecosmart 5GPM). The utility closet is far away from the circuit breakers. So 3 x 40 AMP breakers and proper (#6 gauge) wire has to be wired over existing structure. Easily, $400 for professional wiring, $100 for DIY, but a bit complicated for me. + $1500 cost of professional installation, about $300 for DIY. Noise: negligible. Rumors are that maintenance (descaling) every year is required.

3 Heat Pump Heater: (e.g. Rheem) Very expensive: $1400 + I can assume expensive installation on the order of $1500. Consume less electricity to operate. May require extensive maintenance. Noisy: 49dB. Has 15 year warranty and may have some energy rebates.

4 Multiple POU units. Each of them have to sustain either 1.5 (faucets) or 3.0 GPM (shower and washing machine). 1.5 POU units can be hooked up to standard 120v, no rewiring required (e.g. Ecosmart POU 3.5). 3.0 GPM ones (e.g. Ecosmart POU 6) will require single 30Amp line and a breaker. $150*3+$200*2=$850 for a set of 4. Some small installation required. Not sure about maintenance. Noise: negligible.

Price of DIY installations does not include exisitng tank heater disposal.  I am personally inclining to #4, to get rid of one big central heater at all.

Please tell me, if I have determined the comparison parameters right? Is there another dimension to compare those 4 options? Is there anything I have missed? Is there anyone who did #4 and is happy with that?

Option 1 (replacing "in kind") will not only be cheaper but will be minimally invasive. The cost of the "hassle" is tangible and should be included in your selection process. Amortize the total cost over years of expected service, include the hassle factor, and I think you will find it the best option.


Led, light replacement to ABB 1062UC-84 dimmer switch? I am trying to find a part to the switch ABB 1062UC-84. Unfortunately, ABB does not seem to have stocks for them.

What is the preferred way to replace burnout switch with dimmer light when they burn out?

These switches are not meant to be taken apart and repaired if something breaks or burns out in them. Doing so would void any warranties on the switch and also hinder any safety precautions built into them. Call their customer service to check on guarantees and if none, the safest and wisest solution is to replace the switch. Good luck and stay safe out there.


What do you mount an outdoor electric box to when it's not near your house? We'll be laying out several new driveway slabs for our daughters to park on when commuting to college, and need a couple of NEMA 14-50 outlets near those slabs as they both want Nissan Leafs.  We will be laying conduit under the 19' of driveway, and popping it up beside the new slabs (approximately 24' from the house).  I was going to purchase a couple of weatherproof outdoor boxes from Amazon that look like this:

Obviously, I can't just connect the wires and lay this box on the ground.  I assumed I could search Amazon or google for "outdoor electric box post" and find a bunch of affordable metal posts with standard mounting brackets for boxes like the one above, but I just keep seeing garden light posts.  Amazon did show this, but it's designed for standard 120 outlets and I'm unclear how/if I could mount the box above:

I've searched for installation videos and articles for outdoor outlets, but gave up after over 20 in a row showed them being installed against the side of a house.
I could, of course, cement a 2x4 into the ground to attach the box to, but besides being ugly I feel like nailing a high voltage electrical device to a flammable stick may be a bad idea.  I suspect code would agree with that.
What is the appropriate way to 'mount' a box like the one I show above so that it is held securely away from the ground?  What, specifically is that type of post called?  Or is the box above the wrong product for my application?

My 240v stuff is all nailed to a flammable box, which I live in. - A 4"x4" should be fine. Use any visually acceptable piece of painted wood, vinyl, or painted metal; you don't need a bespoke "240v box post". Use a large radius bend between the horizontal underground run and the vertical, attach the vertical conduit to the post, and pour concrete around both post and conduit. This will constitute a permanent installation.


Can I make my own p-trap I am doing some plumbing in a country where p-traps for showers are not readily available. The local option is not viable for me, and ordering p-traps online would take some time. Is there any reason you can think of that I couldn't make my own trap out of some 90 degree elbows provided I follow the 2" min, 4" max guidelines on trap wier depths?

Thanks

Don't know what country you're in but from a physics perspective you could certainly do it. You seem to know the basics about the depth of the weir. The other things you need to consider is to avoid building an S trap. The tail from the P trap needs to come off of it horizontally with a 1/4" per foot slope to the drain and note the max lengths of pipe below. Sounds as if you've got it.


How to run an additional coax cable into into the attic for a TV antenna? I have a block wall construction house in Florida that was built in 2018. The contractor built in coaxial cables into each room (1 each) for cable TV and/or an Internet cable modem.

I recently dropped my cable TV service due to the cost, but I am still using the Internet service thru the existing coax cable in the living room.

I would like to run a new coax cable into the attic so I can use an antenna with my existing TV in the living room. I took a photo of the wall outlets before the drywall was done, so I can see the white cable line that goes up the wall. See photo below.

Things to consider:

I'm would like to put the antenna in the attic, as our HOA may not allow me to mount an antenna on the side of my house where the TV is located.
I'm not sure if I'll be able to pull two coax cables thru the top of the wall. There's some white spacers of some kind and some orange insulation at the top hole that may get hung up if I try to pull an additional cable using the existing cable.
This is an outside wall (block, most likely with insulation) and is at the low end of the roof slope. So, there is very little to no room to get to the wall from within the attic.

What would be the best way to run a new line with the existing line?

I installed cable for Time Warner for several years. There is no good way to get an additional cable down that wall and have it inside the wall, especially with those short slats holding it to the concrete. As you noted, the roof line right there makes it downright impossible to drill a hole from above.

You do have a number of options though that may meet your needs:

You can use the existing cable to connect your antenna.

I would recommend you run a RG6 coax line from your antenna in the attic to where ever all of your cables terminates (You'll also need something like this). This may be in a central location in the house, or it may be on the outside of the house. Most likely its in a spot that's easier to get another cable to than that wall.

Once you have the antenna there, you can utilize a splitter to connect your antenna to as many outlets as you want to receive the signal. If its only one location, you can use a barrel connector. If you have more than 5 outlets, you should utilize a signal booster; and in general you should try and use good splitters. A good splitter will typically put 3.5 - 5 db's of resistance on a line.

You could run the additional line on the outside of your house

Drill up through the eve of your house being careful to ONLY go through one layer (You don't want to go all the way through one layer and then through the roof). Utilize a grommet to cover the hole, stuff a bunch of RG6 into the attic, and then use a coat hanger hook on a broom handle or something similar in the attic to pull the cable and connect it to your antenna.

On the outside wall you'd then utilize anchors and screws or tapcons with cable clips to hold cable ties to neatly run the cable down the exterior wall. You would then drill through the wall with a masonry bit, and preferably a hammer drill (You can rent them at Home Depot). Have your cable go down past the hole, and then do a loop back up and through the hole you drilled. This makes it so that water dripping down the coax does not go in the whole.

On the inside of your wall, cut a whole where your drill came through and use one of the low-voltage short drywall boxes to hold your outlet. You're now good to go.

You could run the wire on the outside of your interior wall

Home Depot / Lowes sells a number of channels for hiding a cable. Carefully drill a hole through your ceiling into the attic and stuff a bunch of cable up there, get it with a broom with a coat hanger and hook it to your antenna, etc.

On the inside you can hide the cable in one of the electrical channel things you can buy at Home Depot.

You could try to put two holes in your wall to get the wire in the attic
I don't recommend you do this, as its REALLY easy to mess up with as close as your drywall is to the cement block; but it can be done. This answer best answers your specific question, but I don't really recommend it.

Get one of those low-voltage, short boxes from Home Depot or Lowes and cut out a hole in your drywall about 1-2" below the top of your wall. Utilizing a drill at an angle, drill a hole upwards through the furring strip on the top of the wall. Be VERY careful to not go crazy, or you can drill through that strip AND through the roof. Once you've drilled through that, stuff a bunch of cable into the attic and hook it like I described before to get it to your antenna.

Then cut a second box directly below the first hole, again using the low voltage boxes. Stuff a bunch of cable down the high up whole and utilize a coat hanger / hands to try and pull it down the bottom part. You can also use fish tape, or fish rods; but I wouldn't necessarily buy them for one job.

Once you have them down; finish them as before. You can put a blank wall plate over the hole that is up high.

Hopefully these help. I'll try to add some links to what I'm talking about with the various steps to hopefully help.

I think the first solution is by far the best solution.


How can I control water in my basement without a sump pump? I dug the floor of my cellar down to allow more headroom. There was a thin coat of concrete, then clay. We removed the clay in the area and laid flagstones.

Within a week water was rising through the flagstones. We took up the flagstones and put in in a sump pump with water piping all the way round. We graveled it and the boarded over it it has worked well for over 5 years.

I now want to backfill it and take the pump away. How can I do so, and if I replace the concrete floor where would the water go?

Permanent sump pumps are a common feature of homes in the U.S. Perforated piping, or "drain tile" (a reference to archaic techniques) remains in place below the concrete slab, usually embedded in washed rock. The sump pail is located in a utility room and the pump runs as needed, often year-round.

You'll need to build such a system and leave it in place, or you'll need to divert the water outside the home, perhaps using a "French drain" (gravity-driven) piping system.


Air conditioning fan not turning, motor very hot The air conditioning in one zone of my house isn't turning.  I have a Goodman air conditioning unit in that zone.  I noticed that the fan motor was very hot (estimate 150 degrees F).  It was much hotter than the other unit that was working.  I disassembled it enough to be able to turn the fan with my hand and the bearings feel good.  I tried flicking the fan with a screwdriver with it assembled, but it didn't start up.  It seems like the start capacitor is a common problem, but I wouldn't expect the motor would be so hot if that were bad.

I turned off the power and let the fan cool off, but it didn't help.  I didn't hear any humming or anything.  Any idea what could be wrong?

Your idea that the capacitor is bad is probably correct.  With a bad capacitor, the fan can't kick off and start turning, but there is still electricity running through it.  No fan turning means no cooling so that heat builds up.  Having a capacitor go bad unnoticed can actually damage the fan as well because of this heat.

You tried turning the fan, which is a good troubleshooting step.  Since it does turn, replace the (inexpensive) capacitor.  If the motor doesn't come on after that, it could be damaged.  You could try to check the resistance of the motor coils, but you'd need to find a reference for your fan motor to know what "good" was.


NEC code regarding grounding and conductor pass through I am adding a mini split system to my house which currently has a smaller air-conditioning condenser in place.  In brief, the house is very old so we opted for a ductless mini-split over trying to increase the size of the current unit to avoid needing to add ductwork.  We have a 3/4" EMT conduit that leads outside along the back of the house which had only 2 6AWG wires in THHN insulation.

This allowed us to run 2 more 6AWG wires in the same conduit and stay under the NEC fill requirements.  Adding a ground wire would have put us over the conduit fill.  The original unit was presumably grounded to the panel via the all metal conduit.  We also passed the new wire through the original disconnect (going to the original condenser) to a second disconnect (going to the new unit).

To make sure both units were properly grounded an 8' by 5/8" grounding rod was inserted and attached.  I may be able to submit for a tax credit on the unit but I'm not sure if the grounding rod meets building codes.  The electrician thought possibly not.  This route was chosen to avoid running new conduit out of the house (spacing is very difficult). My questions are, does this (grounding to rod and running wire through a disconnect) meet code?  Would it pass a permitting inspection?

Don't mix up your EGCs and your GECs!

The EMT, provided it is made up properly and is not excessively exposed to physical damage, is a perfectly fine ground (equipment grounding conductor) by itself in this application -- 440.9 in the 2017 NEC only applies to runs on roofs, which get tread on repeatedly by clueless folks:

  440.9 Grounding and Bonding. Where metal raceway is run exposed on a roof for air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment, an equipment grounding conductor of the wire type must be installed within the outdoor portions of metal raceways using non-threaded fittings.

However, the ground rod needs to go, because it inadvertently violates 250.121 by trying to use the EMT as a grounding electrode conductor that ties a remote ground rod back to the main panel bond atop it serving as an equipment grounding conductor:

  250.121 Use of Equipment Grounding Conductors. An
  equipment grounding conductor shall not be used as a
  grounding electrode conductor.

  Exception: A wire-type equipment grounding conductor installed in compliance with 250.6(A) and the applicable requirements for both the equipment grounding conductor
  and the grounding electrode conductor in Parts II, III, and
  VI of this article shall be permitted to serve as both an
  equipment grounding conductor and a grounding electrode
  conductor.

So, just rip out the errant remote ground rod and whatever wire was hooking it up to the disconnect(s) or just the wire for that matter as the errant rod will do nothing if it isn't connected to anything, and all will be well when the electrical inspector comes around.


Unswitching an Outlet I have an outlet in a room that is switched and I would like to convert it to being always on. The way I can think of to do it is just to connect the load and the line in the switch box. Is there anything wrong with converting the outlet to being unswitched/always-on in this way?

If it is a normal single pole switch, then yes. Remove the switch, connect the line and load wires, cap it off and put a blank cover over the box.

As per the second question, no there is nothing wrong. Just do not leave a dead switch in the box or ever bury the box in the wall.


Why does my toilet make a high pitched whine when it refills? When my toilet is refilling with water,it makes a very high pitched whine.  Any suggestions on how to resolve?

Depending on the age of the toilet mechanism, you may have an easy fix. If it is a partially clogged valve (as suggested in the comment by ratchet freak) and if it is one of the newer type units, the upper part of the valve can be easily accessed.

Many toilet filler valves look something like this one

The top cap comes off these valves, usually by pressing down slightly with your palm and rotating counterclockwise. Immediately below the cap is usually a strainer filter that can get clogged. Cleaning this out usually solves the problem. Then just reinstall the cap.

If you have a different type of valve, you need to ascertain whether that is where the noise is coming from. With the lid off the tank, you may be able to confirm the source of the sound. If it is the valve, you may be able to determine what part of the mechanism is causing the obstruction.

If the cause is the valve, but the cure is not readily apparent, it probably is worth changing the mechanism, which is cheap and fairly easily done. The repair kits have complete instructions and basically involve

turning off the water supply
draining the tank
uncoupling the supply line from the bottom of the mechanism
unscrewing the nut that holds the mechanism on (from the outside bottom of the tank)
inserting the new mechanism in the hole and attaching the nut
reattaching the supply line
turning on the water supply
adjusting the max fill level

Not too hard for even an amateur DIYer. Just be ready to quickly turn off the shutoff valve if there are any leaks (even a drop), and patiently redo any joints that are not absolutely watertight (the instructions will explain about teflon tape, etc.)


Drywall work adjacent to painted surfaces - problems with adhesion? If you have to do some drywall work patching into an existing painted surface, are there any special considerations or prep you should do, or will the drywall joint compound generally go right over paint & adhere OK?

This seems like it would be a totally common situation in practically ever renovation / repair scenario.

Assume the painted surface is in perfectly good condition - not flaking or peeling or anything.

In my specific instance the ceiling is flat finished with matte paint, and some drywall work is being done on a wall & its corner where it meets the ceiling.

Thanks

It's not usually an issue unless you're dealing with glossy paint or some of the older enamels. If you're concerned, rough it up or spot-prime the painted areas with a good bonding primer and carry on.


What is this fitting called (sketch) Can someone tell me the name of this fitting? I presume it is steel about 10mm x 25mm x 10mm with a threaded hole on the bottom.

Has holes all the way through on alternate faces.

This is a fairly typical basin waste ...

See where those rods intersect, there's a clamping block there.

Some people call it a "Basin Waste Arm Pop Up Rod Link Connector Metal Linkage" - but that's a bit verbose.


How do I remove the gluey residue left by gaffer tape on glass Rather stupidly I taped up round the edge of some windows (eight windows both inside and out) before painting the woodwork (I'm not accurate enough to do it without taping) using gaffer tape rather than masking tape because I had run out.

A week later when I come to pull the tape off, it is very firmly stuck when I eventually get the tape off it has left a gluey residue which I'm struggling to remove using cloth, hot water and soap..

is there an easier way, clearly I dont want to scratch the glass, is there some detegent that breaks down the gluey residue ?

I did think about using my wallpaper stripper, but UI was worried the heat could crack the glass, would that work ?

I typically use Goo Gone (US product), will remove most.  Rubbing Alcohol is another item that works for some adhesive.  Or clorox wipes also works on some.


What's special about ceiling paint that makes it particularly suitable for ceilings? I've got ceilings that need to be painted, and I don't have any ceiling paint but I have a bunch of leftover white paint from painting my walls. Is there any reason I shouldn't just use my leftover wall paint for my ceilings? The wall paint has eggshell finish and the color is actually slightly off-white (white with a hint of cream)

Ceilings are typically painted with a flat sheen paint, as it's good at hiding (or at least not highlighting) imperfections, nor does it need to be particularly durable. Those two qualities tend to lead to a less expensive paint, and if you can save money where you can, why not. If you've already got some leftover (non-glossy) paint, there's no real reason not to use it. I wouldn't use gloss or semi-gloss on the ceiling, but eggshell should be OK.


Adding a pergola to an existing deck? I have an existing deck on the back of my house, and I’d like to add a pergola.  The deck is 17’ x 16’, and I’d like to build the pergola to roughly match the size and shape.

The attached picture shows a view of the deck from above, along with measurements and placements of the existing support posts and beams.  The posts are 6”x6” and the beams are paired 2”x10”.  The joists on top of that are 2”x8”, and there’s deck flooring on top of that.  There is also a ledger that runs the width of the deck, so it is attached to the house.  I don’t want to attach the pergola to the house though.

My idea for the pergola is this:

Place 4x4x10’ posts at the same locations as the deck posts. These would pass thru the deck floor and rest on the beams below.
For the 4 posts that are at the outer edges of the deck (A, B, D, E), lag-bolt the new posts to the adjacent joists.
The 5th post (C) would be 2 feet in from the edges of the deck, and about right in the middle between 2 joists, so I’m still wondering how to secure it.  Maybe a post bracket (?) attached to the bottom of the post and to the beam?
Run 2x6 beams between the new posts, either sitting on top of the posts or attached to the sides of the posts with joist hangers, to form the outer edges of the pergola.
Run 2-3 additional 2x6 beams across the middle, parallel to the house.
Run some number of boards on edge, perpendicular to the house, across the top.

Questions:

Could the side beams that run perpendicular to the house extend almost all the way to the house?  That would provide an additional 3.5-4’ of coverage along the house side, where we typically place deck furniture.
Are 4x4 posts sufficient for the pergola?
Is the placement of those posts OK to carry/support the load to the structure below?
Any other suggestions or questions I should consider?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

First answer! (On an old question.)
Could the side beams that run perpendicular to the house extend almost all the way to the house? That would provide an additional 3.5-4’ of coverage along the house side, where we typically place deck furniture.
I'm assuming you mean the rafters (that rest on the beam) would cantilever over the 17' beam by 4'? That will be fine, as there won't be any weight bearing on the rafters other than their own weight.

Are 4x4 posts sufficient for the pergola?
In my estimation, yes. Check out load tables to be sure (capacity varies by species, length, wet or dry conditions, etc.) They will look a bit spindly though.

Is the placement of those posts OK to carry/support the load to the structure below?
Should be fine, in fact, you could place the posts almost anywhere. Each post will be carrying less weight than the average American male.

Any other suggestions or questions I should consider?
Pergolas don't weigh that much, but they do catch a lot of wind so lateral load and rotation of the posts is a real concern. I understand you're bolting some the posts to the joists so that should solve that problem.

The 17' beam span will likely cause the 2x6 beams to sag. I'd recommend bumping up to 2x8 or 2x10.

By this point, you've probably built your pergola. How'd it turn out?


Can I use old style individual faucets on a bathroom vanity? We have an old home and would like to keep with the period where possible. I have a marble vanity top with individual faucets for hot and cold rather than a single spigot for both. I can buy brand new replacement faucets that look exactly correct. Does anyone know if that is allowed by current plumbing code?

Plumbing code is generally unconcerned with the style of whatever fixture you choose to install, only that the fixture work properly and be installed properly.


How much weight can floor made of plywood over joists on concrete slab support? I'm installing a 3' x 4' masonry heater that will weigh 1700 - 2000 lbs in a room that is a converted garage. The floor is plywood over 2x4 joists directly atop a concrete slab. How much weight can this type of floor support?
Thanks

You should be fine in terms of compressional strength, the more important issue is the point stress load. If the heater has feet of some kind they might punch right through your plywood if they're not over a joist. If you want to be safe you could cut out a square in the floor the size of the heaters footprint, then install blocking around the holes opening effectively creating a form. Then fill the void flush with concrete, just make sure to install sill seal first to prevent rot and provide a little room for expansion and contraction.


How do I install a chain lock on a steel door? I'm tring to install a chain lock on the inside of my home. I've tried millions of things to get a hole in the steel door. Is a 12 volt drill not powerful enough?

As @DA01 mentioned, a good 12 volt drill should manage this just fine if you are using a drill bit designed for metal. I have had metal doors on my last three houses, and all were easy to drill.

If you are using a battery powered drill, it may have lower torque than a wired drill, but that wouldn't be a problem here - as long as the battery lasts until you are in:-)


Pipes on Exterior Wall I recently had frozen pipes in my basement. I took some drywall down to identify the location of the frozen pipes and to apply heat to thaw it. It appears the frozen section is somewhere about halfway between the ceiling and the floor, as when I used a hairdryer directed there it thawed the pipes. The pipes run along an exterior wall which has a layer of insulation and vapour barrier between the wall and the pipe, and then another layer of vapour barrier and insulation between the pipe and the drywall. At first I was upset, as this is a new home and I thought it was poor workmanship; but once I noticed that they actually had 2 layers of insulation and vapour barrier, I began to realize it is most likely they just didn't catch a cold spot which is in actuality making it more of a cooler behind the wall rather than a warm spot. Also, IMO, any insulation between your warm house and piping, especially against an exterior wall, is just going to buffer the warmth from reaching the pipe. But I will see if that is up for debate.
Below I have included 3 pictures of the area. The two pipes running vertical are the hot and cold feeds for the washing machine. The T-connector is a feed for the downstairs shower and also runs behind the wall. The entire column feels cold and I can't tell if that is coming from the corner stud or the top near the joist. I have certainly felt cold air coming from under the joist. The water main line runs into the wall (interior) and comes up through the wall somewhere to the left of the picture along the exterior wall near the ceiling. If having the main run in this location is an issue I can get some closer pictures for you.
In order to do this correctly, I thought of a few options: option one would be to remove the drywall in front of the pipe and install a plastic channel (aesthetics) to run the pipes on the inside (warm) of the wall in addition to insulating the vertical corner stud and gap between the foundation and the joist. Another option would be to just insulate the vertical stud and gap under the joist, repair the vapour barrier and put the pipes back. I would leave the drywall open to make sure that if I didn't insulate all the cold spots I wouldn't have to take the drywall down to thaw the pipes again.
Any other options or comments are much appreciated.

Here's what I would do.  If you feel industrious, I would remove that entire cavity's worth of drywall so that the entire wall cavity between the studs is exposed.  Then remove all of the batt insulation.  Buy a sheet of XPS or polyisocyanurate foam board insulation, cut it to fit, and install it behind the PEX pipes and the outside wall.  You want the foam board as thick as will fit behind the pipes.  Then finish insulating the cavity with additional foam panels or pieces of batt insulation, but (and this is key here), don't cover the part of the pipes facing the drywall.  You want the pipes to receive some warmth from the room.
A somewhat easier approach would be to wrap the pipes with the thickest foam pipe insulation you can find.  But, similar to the above approach, remove a section of the pipe insulation that faces the room.  You only want to insulate say 3/4 of the pipe against the cold wall, and want the PEX to be heated (through the drywall) by the room.


Create cabinet in trash compactor space I removed my trash compactor and I want to use that space as cabinet. I want to install cabinet door. But before I do that, I need to attach top and bottom face frames where red lines are in picture.

How can I join new pieces of face frames with existing verical piece ? Can I use wood glue ?

enter image description here

This is slightly hard to answer without knowing what tools you have at your disposal. Perfect world, you'd have access to a complete shop (tablesaw, chopsaw, pneumatics, pocket hole jig). My description will talk about tools I'd use. Imperfect world, you can usually fake it with hand tools.

You probably want a well-supported shelf at the bottom. I'd cut it so that it would be a very tight friction fit. I'd support it on 4 sides, direct to the floor. The front support can be a surrogate for a toe kick panel. (Supports can be anywhere from 3/4" thick on up.)

The top and bottom rails can be glue only, but better if you pocket screw them into the stiles. Definitely glue the bottom rail to the shelf. I'd air nail the rail to the front of the shelf as well. You could put something as a backer for the top rail as well, but those parts don't get anywhere near the abuse that a bottom rail gets.


what caused this new small dark hole on my hardwood floor recently? I'm seeing a new small hole on my hardwood floor since last week. It almost looks like it was a black spot before and then it became a hole. Is this because I didn't maintain the floor? or is it some sort of insect that did it?

It's likely a knot that came loose.  The circular grain around it sure makes it look that way.  The wood can turn blackish like this if water gets in there and sits which could easily have happened with a small hole like that.

How a Pin Knot is formed. Broken branch with encased dead twig, when the branch split under snow load, the twig slid through the surrounding wood, surviving intact. Same thing happens on tree trunks when small branches die and don't break off.


How can I make my outlets more secure in their boxes? The holes for some of the receptacles in my house are a bit too big:

So when I screw them to the box they are wobbling. Any easy way to fix it?

Various products are available specifically for leveling a device in an oversized opening, such as this bracket.

Selection at big box stores may be limited, go to an electrical supply house if you can't find similar.


New dryer got wet on ride home need advice My wife and I bought a Maytag dryer it rained all the way home.  I wiped it down, plugged it in and it smelled. So if I let it set for a few days will it be ok?

You might try drying it with a small room heater. Or opening it up and gently drying the electrical control board with a towel and then with a hair dryer. As @DanielGriscom states, we can't look into your dryer to see how wet it is.

That said, my own experience is that, left unplugged and given time and warmth, most electrical equipment can survive even immersion in fresh water. For battery-powered devices, remove the battery immediately to prevent electrolytic corrosion, and dry as above.


Dehumidifier to help a portable AC? I have asked How to get cold air from one room to another now I am thinking, the AC will be in the bedroom but what if I set up a dehumidifier (perhaps with a pump) in the kitchen connected directly into the drain? This last week mid day we had 60-70% humidity with 30 C temperatures and 90% humidity during the night although only 20C temperature outside. From what I read, it seems portable ACs struggle in high humidity to keep the air cold, perhaps this would help? Or it's taking air from the outside anyways and this doesn't matter?

If you wanted to put a two hose portable a/c in the living room you could vent it out the sliding glass door by getting one of those pet door panels that fits in the sliding glass door. You would use the pet door as the opening for the hoses.


How to make a second story floor fire proof? I have a few bench burners on my second story house. While the dry wall has been replaced with a double layer of Type X 5/8 drywall with off-set sockets I worry the floor. Due to the layout of the house and the room beneth it, adding to the ceiling of the floor below is not ideal.

The room currently has carpet.  I plan on tearing it out and either sparying the wood with Inspecta-Shield, which is effective by raising the flame ignition point up to 2500 degrees F thereby slowing or eliminating the flame ingition. (ie. paper ignites at approx. 350 degrees F, glass at 1800, etc).  Or should I line the floor in fire grade ceramic tiles? I have heard that I could line the floor in metal sheets, but I don't think I need to or have the capacity to do so anyway.

What should I do?

You can install cement board on the subfloor and then any flooring you'd like on top of that.  The cement board isn't that thick and is typically used to firm up the floor before installing tile, but you could put whatever you like on top.

However, rather than making the place only able to contain the fire, I'd consider installing sprinkler heads in the room to put out any fires before they have a chance to spread.


Which cheap plywood are suitable for use as siding-and-sheathing? I know there are plywoods that are intended for this purpose, with an attractive face and often cut grooves to make it look like board-and-batten or other traditional vertical sidings. T1-11 is a common example. My friend used Breckenridge on his house, with 1x battens over the seams.

However, if I'm not interested in the appearance of fake vertical siding, and will tolerate a less-than-perfect surface, what other plywoods can I use, to save money?

Suppose I pick through the CDX pile and find some with a nicer-than-average C face. Would that work OK in this role?

While CDX (rated Exposure I) has exterior glue, it is not intended for prolonged weather exposure. You should use a panel that has a true exterior rating, even if it is rated for sheathing and not siding. Try looking for APA Rated Sheathing C-D Exterior plywood. You can use any panel thickness with a span rating for 16" spaced studs, but with 24" studs, use a panel with a roof span rating of 24 or more. That will be as cheap as you can go and still have reasonable life expectancy.


Muffling a fire alarm speaker? First off, this may or may not be legal, but seeing as this is in my own place of residence and it's bothering me a lot, I figured I'd ask.

I live in an apartment complex near my college. I have 2 smoke detectors in the living room/kitchen area and 1 in each of the 3 bedrooms.

In addition, there is a Simplex TrueAlert horn/strobe device on the living room wall. It is one of the loudest alarms I have ever heard, and it is completely unnecessary considering the smoke detectors are plenty loud on their own.

I have bad anxiety when it comes to anticipation of loud, unexpected noises and it's at the point where I'm not completely relaxed when I'm sitting in my own apartment living room anymore, because it could go off literally any time and the noise is god awful.

here's a picture of the alarm on the wall for reference:

Anyways I was wondering if there's anything I can put over the speaker grille to muffle the noise a little bit. My living room is pretty small so the noise has nowhere to go and is awfully loud.

No.    Your safety is worth more than you feeling anxiety.  You have smoke alarms for your apartment but this one looks like it is hooked up to the building.  Meaning if there were a fire somewhere else in the building you would be notified via this alarm.

You may think that this alarm is extremely loud if you are standing next to it but what if you are in the shower with a radio on?  In college I had a similar alarm and showered right through a drill and had no idea.  Also these alarms should go off maybe a couple of times a year so your anxiety should be only messed with for a few minutes a year at most.

If this doesn't convince you, then maybe saying that tampering with fire alarms is illegal and could be grounds to have you evicted.


Several dead outlets, but breaker is fine In my living room, when I first moved in, there was a dead outlet.  Everything was tested by an electrician before I moved in, and there are a lot of outlets in the room, so I ignored it.  Then some time ago, the outlet I had my floor lamp in went dead.  Circuits were fine, everything else in the room/floor/house was working, just (again) one outlet.

Now a THIRD has gone in the same room - I am getting worried.  Is this likely a wiring problem?  Is this a DIY job or should I get an electrician to check it out?  The house is pretty old (1930's) and I have no idea when the current wiring was done.

With a home this old it probably has been updated.
Are there still 2 prong outlets? If modern 3 prong some level of updating has been done. It is possible that they used back stab outlets very easy to wire but not reliable.

With the circuit breaker off, pull the outlets that are not working. Use caution when pulling the outlets because the original braided wire may still be there and the insulation can be fragile. Examine the connection to the outlet--if the wire is pushed into a hole, this is probably your problem. Most outlets have a slot next to the hole that will release the wire or it may have burned loose. If there are screws on the side move the wires to the screws or purchase new outlets with screws.

If you find plastic-coated wires, this is good news, as all the wiring was replaced. I have replaced hundreds of these back-stabbed outlets and this is where I would look. I've found everything from a wire totally burned off to ones that just slide out of the outlet.

There is also a slim possibility of a wire nut being loose but that is really rare. Replacement only takes a few minutes and is something most DIY folks can do with just a screwdriver and pair of wire strippers.


What should I know about radon levels at home? What levels are safe and do they affect resale value? My wife and I are looking to buy our first home.  We recently found one, but a report says the radon levels inside the home are unsatisfactory.  I've never really been aware of radon levels in homes before, but of course, look it up and it's not a good thing to have.  :-/

What are the options that I have to mitigate radon levels in the home?
If radon levels inside the home are high, and a mitigation system is installed, does that mean radon levels outside the home will be just as high?  What I mean is, are radon levels only a worry inside because they collect in an enclosed space VS outside in the open air where it's diluted?
The recent bad report has made me reconsider purchasing this home, even when negotiating price to compensate for radon mitigation.  Is my worry justified?  Or can installing a system fix it enough to where it's a non-issue?

I gave a pretty detailed answer on radon mitigation systems in a related question.  Rather than repeat myself, I suggest that you read that and follow the links, particularly the EPA's guide on radon mitigation for home buyers.
Radon levels outdoors are pretty much always going to be zero.  It's only enclosed spaces you need to worry about.
As long as you can get a radon system installed without significantly destroying the home, and the radon levels aren't insanely high (100+ pCi/L), radon is not the end of the world.  Tell the seller to pay for a radon contractor, or have them knock a few thousand off the selling price and hire your own guy.  I would suggest getting a bid from a reputable radon contractor in the area so you know how much is reasonable for the sellers to concede.  Make sure you also factor in the price of someone doing a re-test on the radon levels!


How can I fix a small leak in PVC pipe? I installed a new sink this weekend, and as a result I had to redo the drain pipes.

At the joint to a 90 degree elbow and the Y there is a small leak.  The pipes are 2" diameter, and I fear that I did not allow them to set enough or I did not put enough glue on them.  I typical work with PVC involves irrigation systems that are a much smaller diameter.

Given that I only have access from the outside is there a way to fix the small leak?

The only way to properly fix it is to redo that section of pipe.  Anything else is just a band aid that will likely fail in the near future.

The leak is probably worse than you think since drains are not under any pressure.  If you don't fix it, what will likely happen is that as the drain slowly clogs, the leak will get worse as  it has no where to go but out through the leak.


Questions about re-purposing double gang electrical box with two circuits Currently I have a double gang box containing two paddle switches on two separate circuits: the kitchen lights circuit and the living room outlets circuit. Ironically enough, the living room outlets circuit switch controls two hanging light fixtures in my kitchen, while the other circuit's switch does not control anything at this receptacle.

Using a multimeter, I have determined that the bottom red wire is the line in and the top left red wire is the load out for the living room outlets circuit switch. I believe the white wire is neutral for this circuit because it will only show voltage on the multimeter when connected to the load, however, it was not connected to either of the switches.

The kitchen lights circuit is more confusing. I believe the black wire is the line in and the red wire is the load out, but both wires show voltage at all times (black: 120 V, red: 20-40 V).

My questions are:

Is the white wire a neutral wire for the living room outlets circuit? (Every single gang switch that I've looked in does not have a neutral wire.)
Why does the red wire in the kitchen lights circuit always read voltage in the range of 20-40 V?
Can I install a power outlet on the living room outlets circuit (left side) and re-purpose the kitchen lights circuit (right side) to control the actual kitchen light fixtures?

Here is a circuit diagram and picture of the electrical box for reference:

You are using the conduit wiring method with THHN wires*.  In this wiring method,

Grounds are green, green/yellow, bare, or listed metallic conduit such as EMT
Neutrals are white or gray
Hots are black, brown, red, orange, yellow, pink, blue or purple

That's not news to you.  This is: NO SUBSTITUTIONS.  In things like switch loops and 3-way circuits, you often see a white wire used as a "hot". They're supposed to be marked with tape but nobody does. This is only allowed in cable wiring methods where you have no choice of wire color.  Not here!  In conduit with THHN, you must pull the correct color, period.**  You can mark them with tape, but doing so can't turn a neutral to a hot.

Another thing about conduit is the new "neutral in a switch loop" rule does not apply. That's because it's easy to pull a neutral wire in the future.  Switch loops will have always-hot and switched-hot.

One rule remains the same: Currents must be equal among all wires in a cable or conduit.  This could also be called the "Tree rule": circuits can branch but one branch can't loop back to rejoin another.

A side-effect of this rule is neutrals are not promiscuous: A neutral can only be a neutral for the circuit it's part of.  For instance you cannot use the lower-left white wire to provide neutral for the upper-right black wire; they are on different circuits and this will result in unequal currents in both conduits, as well as overload the neutral. Neutrals don't have circuit breakers! Their only protection is honest wiring: If a neutral returned two circuits' worth of power, it would overload.

Any promiscuous/stolen neutral issue will also trip a GFCI protecting the circuit.

To answer your questions briefly, #1 if it's white, it's neutral for the accompanying circuit only.  #2 That's just phantom voltage from running parallel to the hot wire.  Don't worry about it.  #3 NO because that would involve stealing neutral and violating the "equal currents" rule.

So on to your problem. Let's divide and conquer.

The top right "circuit"

Current can't return from a load without a neutral.  And currents must be equal in each conduit.  And there's no neutral in the upper right conduit. That means it can only be one thing: A switch loop.  You confirmed this in comments.  A switch goes there.

I imagine the red and black went to the two conductor screws on one switch. This is the only possibility without violating the "equal currents" rule, so it must be so.  If you feel the switch is useless to you, you can create an "always off" switch by capping both wires separately -- or an "always-on" switch by tying both wires together with a wirenut.   That would free up one yoke space in this box, for say a receptacle.

You cannot alter this circuit without a lot more analysis and work.  Next.

The left "circuit"

Reds went to the switch, whites nutted together.  Straightforward stuff.

If you wanted to fork a receptacle off this, make 3 6" pigtails: 1 white and 2 red, from #12 THHN stranded wire. The receptacle gets 1 white and 1 red pigtail. The switch gets 1 red pigtail on 1 switch terminal, the other terminal goes to the red from the upper left conduit.  Now tie all the whites with a wirenut, and all the dangling reds with a wirenut.  Voila.

(This bundling by color is lucky, it's not a sure thing and can differ in different circuits.)

* Conduit in residential is unusual.  Chicago requires it, mixed-use developments probably require it, large multi-unit buildings, or your electrician is picky!  I've seen Romex Kaisers fill conduit with only black, white and red THHN, thinking they must follow the exact same color code as cable, but those fools would pull black+white for a switch loop (illegal obviously) and that didn't happen here.

** Except in very large sizes, 4 AWG and larger, generally used as feeder or service.


New condenser fan motor burned out AC technician replaced my condenser fan (through a home warranty service). The new fan worked for 5 min and stopped working after that. the fan motor was extremely hot (180F or more)
The old fan motor was 1.4 A 240 V and 1/4 hp. the new motor is also of the same configuration. the only thing i missed out is the RPM. i don't remember the RPM of the old motor and the new motor RPM is 1040. The AC technician took away the old motor and recycled it.

What can be the problem here?

I looked in some forums that the RPM mismatch can overheat the motor and damage it. i have no way of knowing the RPM of the original motor. I looked in manufacturer manual and there is no mention of it. is RPM matching that important?

http://www.nordyne.com/Literature/423a.pdf [ My unit is maytag DS3BD-036K ]

Very similar to question What could cause a replacement A/C condenser fan motor to only run for 3 minutes?

Does RPM effect motor life? More than I thought it would.

"if you change an 825 motor and put in a 1075, your HP load will move from 1/6th to 1/2... with the same blade. and the noise level will go up dramatically in the unit."-vstech, HVAC Talk
"Plus you're probably going to eat a few motors in the process."-Six

Five minutes sounds about right when you ask a 1/4hp motor to give you 1/2hp.


Why is my bathroom sink leaking around the overflow seal? Can anyone tell me why I have water leaking out from under the actual sink? It’s coming from the overflow “Reservoir” area? The sink is draining completely fine otherwise. Just replaced the sink drain.

I agree with Sfors on trying to seal up the leak areas, as this will make plunging a future clog in the primary drain possible.

Although, the rust and leaks being that high up tells me your overflow's outlet into the primary drain is blocked and the overflow is staying mostly full, instead of freely draining straight through.

The overflow's outlet is a side port hole just below the primary drain's opening, so you may have access to it to confirm it's a real drain (there was a very stupid period when they were just for expected appearance) and is cleared when fished from the overflow inlet above.

Now, if you don't see a side port inside the primary drain, then the wrong drain was put into the sink with the overflow being totally deleted as a drain and does indeed just fill up...until it finally turned itself back into a drain, the wrong way.


Can I use a rusty soldering iron? I am thinking of getting back into stained glass. One of the projects I want to work on is to fix a stained glass window that has a section with a crack in it. I was given a couple soldering irons that have spent years in the basement and are rusty.

Can I use these irons? Is it safe? Are there quality concerns I should be aware of?

My guess would be that as long as the cords look OK, I'd clean them up a bit and give them a try. Burnish and tin the tips well. Just be ready to pull the plug if they start to overheat or something.