Combining Circuits to have common powerline So have individual circuits for each room in the house so each room has its own breaker as well.
My main objective is to be able to use the TP-Link AV1200 powerline internet extender from the basement to the 2nd floor.
Most of the breakers are 10A. I wanted to combine 2 light load circuits (Basement wall outlet which is never used and guest room wall outlets) into one circuit so they have the same powerline.
Can this be done? since these circuits are basically never used, i figured combining them wouldn't do much in terms of total load.

Please advise.

The only situation I can think of where this might be an issue is if either or both of these circuits you want to combine is/are part of other multiwire branch circuits, meaning their neutral is shared with another circuit's neutral. If they both have their own exclusive neutrals or are already sharing a neutral in a mutual multiwire branch circuit it shouldn't be an issue.

Oh, one other thing just occurred to me. You mentioned a basement wall outlet, but didn't mention whether the guest rooms are also in the basement. In any case, if the basement circuit happens to be protected with a GFCI breaker, and/or the guest rooms are protected with an arc-fault breaker you could have issues. Current NEC codes require arc-fault protection in bedrooms (as well as many other living spaces) and gfci protection for outlets in unfinished basement spaces. You might have an issue there. If only one of those I've mentioned is the case, be sure to combine the neutrals as well by pigtailing them together into the return lug on the breaker. And be sure not to circumvent the NEC's safety rules for either type of location. There is a dual-purpose AFCI-GFCI type of breaker manufactured to take care of both at once, but they are around $200 where I live.


How can I shorten a reciprocating saw blade? This rather dated article recommends using a shortened reciprocating saw blade to punch through drywall.  I have an old blade (intended to be used to cut wood, as far as I can tell) that I'm happy to cut short for this purpose, but the page's recommendation of cutting through the blade with cable pliers is a non-starter.  Perhaps recip saw blades were thinner in the 80s.

I have a decent selection of tools in the house, but not anything particularly geared toward metalworking.  How can I cut through this blade to shorten it?  I do have a recip saw blade that appears to be intended for cutting through metal (it has an icon of what appears to be a girder on it, and is red) but I'm not sure if another blade was the target that they had in mind for it.

I just save my broken blades for this.

Clamp it in a vise, where you want it to break off and hit it with a hammer very sharply. It should snap off (make sure the part you want to KEEP is in the vise).

If you have to work it back and forth a little, you can clean up the edges on a grinder.


Why does the breaker trip occasionally after I installed a new light fixture? We bought a house a couple of years ago with a covered light fixture box in the ceiling (a blank cover over a wired box and a blank cover over the switch box).  I recently modified a plug-in pendant lamp (no ground) to a hard-wired pendant lamp by doing the following:

Cut the plug off the lamp cord.
Connect it to the wires in the ceiling box (white to white, black to black).
Install a new single-pole switch in the switch box.

The new fixture has no ground, so I'm not sure what to do with the ground wire from the power cable.  The fixture is a simple lamp-style socket on the end of a long cord.  I have a 12-watt (60-watt equivalent) CFL installed.

The circuit itself, as best as I can tell, controls the overhead lights in the kitchen and the adjacent room.  This includes a small (20-watt?) round fluorescent fixture, a ceiling fan that we never use (with a 25-watt incandescent bulb installed), and a track light with three 26-watt (100-watt equivalent) CFLs installed.

The first time I flipped the light on, it immediately tripped the breaker.  I reset the breaker and tried again with no problem.  Tonight during dinner (I did the mod on Tuesday or Wednesday), the breaker tripped after the lights had been on and stable for quite some time.

I didn't flip the switch off, but I reset the breaker.  It immediately tripped, so I reset it again, and it seemed fine.  It hasn't tripped since.  In the 2.5 years we've lived here, I don't remember that breaker ever tripping before, which is what has me concerned.

I'll be in the attic tomorrow to replace a cable splitter, so I'll try to find the cable and visually inspect it for any damage or kinks.

Is there anything else I should be looking for?  Any obvious problems or solutions that I don't know of?

I'm going to take a wild guess that the previous home owner put the blanks up because they had the same problem and didn't want to fix it. You likely have a short circuit and need to track down where the short is occurring. I'd remove the bulb from the fixture, unhook each of the wires that you connected before, and use a multimeter to test for "continuity" between the wires on each run (e.g. hot to neutral, hot to ground, neutral to ground for the line to the switch, for the light fixture without a bulb, and anywhere else that was previously disconnected). If you don't have continuity with a simple low voltage tester, then the problem could be arcing that only occurs when 120V is applied. Either way, get this fixed before turning the breaker back on with this fixture wired.


How to fireblock irregular shaped hole in subfloor with pipes and electrical wires? I've created an access hole in my subfloor for a couple pipes and a few electrical wires to get down into the crawlspace.  It's coming up through the floor behind a chase wall, but the space is super irregular. I need to fireblock and also keep out rodents.

Would fireblocking foam meet code? I see a lot of posts that foam's just not actually effective fireblocking. Nonetheless, I'm thinking maybe some hardware cloth and fireblocking foam would do that job.

Does anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

As you write about in the question, there are expanding foam products designed for this. The most common I see at the home improvement stores is Great Stuff FireBlock. It is less about stopping the actual fire than not giving it a clear path to travel and acting like a chimney.

As far as code, it seems that it could comply with code. There are also a variety of easily purchased fire rated caulks that would work here..


How can I improve hvac air flow to my attic? Two years ago I converted the attic of my 1.5 story house into a livable space. It had no HVAC ducts going up, so I ran some coming from the basement where the furnace is.

Air flow to the attic via the ducts is really low. I would say it's at least 10 times weaker than the first floor air flow. This isn't so bad in the winter because there's computers and a projector that emit heat (as well as radiant heat coming from the first floor).

I had a new central air system installed a few months ago, and since the flow is so bad upstairs, I'm forced to put the old window unit back in, which really bums me out.

I installed two duct fans in the attic to try and improve the air flow, but it only marginally improved things. Not enough to make any difference.

Is there anything else I can do?

First, realize that with a single zone system and multiple floors, it's difficult to get the temperature correct everywhere. Also, since you mentioned this was an attic space, you're likely against the roof and getting heat from every wall plus from the computers and people in the space. In short, you're fighting a losing battle.

I've got a similar challenge, though not to your extreme, and here's what I have done. First, learn how to adjust the baffles on the ducts. In the summer, you want as much as possible going to the high floors, and the reverse in the winter. Get someone to feel the air coming out while you're pushing the baffle all the way to one side or another. For me, it made little difference until I pushed it all the way.

Next, exclude any rooms you don't need to heat/cool, e.g. a guest room or storage space in the basement. Shut the door and close the vents to reduce the effort you're putting on the HVAC.

Finally, I swapped out my return grille with models that accept a filter (they are hinged and open after releasing two small clips). These return grilles are special orders from the big box stores, but they carry them. I still leave a thin blue "rock catcher" filter directly on my HVAC blower itself. And I put a filter in every return except the upstairs in the summer and downstairs in the winter. The idea being to suck out as much air as possible from location that needs it.

This means that switching between heat and cool is a process, flipping the baffles and swapping in and out filters. But a little effort is better than a lot of sweating.

One last suggestion, since it sounds like you're running a small server farm in your attic. Either move that down to the basement, or consider replacing the window unit with a ductless mini-split system. You get to see out the window, and these systems have configurable thermostats.


Is it necessary to discharge the capacitors on an AC condensor? I intend to replace the capacitors on my house air conditioner condenser.  This video claims that discharging the capacitors is not necessary, because the circuitry will discharge through the fan motor if you unplug while it is running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz3DyCSKGB4

Will using this technique really discharge the
capacitor?
Is this a best practice, and is it safe?
What is
the best way to handle capacitor discharge for an AC condenser?

Most of the motors associated with fans and such, utilize an induced magnetic field, and don't have a permanent magnet. So as the capacitor releases its charge (quickly), a magnetic field would be induced in the motor and cause the motor to turn maybe once or twice, and that should spend most, if not all, of the the stored charge. So the capacitor will release the charge to turn the motor... or more technically, the motor will draw the stored current out of the capacitor (quickly).

With respect to the kind of motor that is turning, for most any AC fan motor, it is highly doubtful that a dynamo-style (using a permanent magnet) motor is being used (except on wind mills). I mention this because the efficiency of the discharging effect could be different compared with a dynamo-style motor... but I also think it should be kind of the same (roughly). The difference being that inertia of the spinning dynamo, will continue to generate electricity, until it nearly stops- at which point it would draw the stored current from the capacitor.

But something else to be aware of is that, typically, large capacitors do not perfectly insulate or isolate or hold charges... they naturally discharge within themselves after a while. Furthermore, large capacitors usually have a bleeder resistor attached to the capacitors terminals. Discharging through motors and other electrical items where a circuit exists is (probably) the primary way, though.


How can I attach a curtain rail to a lath and plaster wall? I need to attach a curtain pole (for a heavy curtain) above a window. To be consistent with another window in the same room, I'll need to affix a 4-inch wide strip of wood to the wall, and attach the curtain pole to that.

In a modern house with plasterboard walls, this would be fairly easy. However, my house is 130 years old, and the walls are lath-and-plaster with old-style, horsehair-bound plaster. This means that most fixings won't work, and I think I'll need to attach the wooden strip to the vertical studs in the wall.

However, I'm at a loss to know how to find the vertical studs behind the plaster. How can I do this? Do I need to remove a section of plaster?

Finding studs behind lath-and-plaster walls can be difficult because the plaster is so dense. See Am I having trouble finding studs because my walls are lath and plaster? for some suggestions.

However, since you know exactly where the strip of wood has to go, you should be able to drill some small pilot holes behind its eventual location, then fish some wire into the wall cavity to find the studs on either side of each hole. I wouldn't count on having all the studs at 16" centers, and you may even have some studs doubled up, so I'd do more than one pilot hole to be sure to find enough mount points to attach your curtain rail securely.


Can I wire a dimmer in series with another dimmer? I recently installed eight recessed LED fixtures and one hanging fixture in my living room.  The hanging fixture has three small LED flood/spot lights to illuminate built in shelving on the stone fireplace.  All fixtures are currently controlled by a single dimmer.

My problem is that the three small floods are too bright.  I've already got the lowest wattage dimmable bulbs available with this G10 style base.  Can I wire in a second dimmer in series with the main dimmer, to reduce power to just the one fixture?  I'd still like all fixtures to be controlled by the single main wall switch/dimmer but just want the flood fixture to put out less light.

No, this really won't work.  Suppose you have 2 dimmers at 20% and 50%.   You are hoping the effect will be multiplicative, that is, 50% of 20% is 10%.  It won't.

Two SCR dimmers in series will, at best, give you the lower dimming level of the two, i.e. 20%.

A PWM dimmer, commonly used on dedicated LED circuits, pulses at its own high frequency. If you have two of them, they will pulse at different frequencies.  This will create a much lower "beat frequency", in music this is what makes it annoying when instruments are out of tune with each other.  In light, this would look like pulsing or shimmering.  You won't like it.

Actual LED emitters can be dimmed very effectively to absolutely any light level. Turn the LED on for 10 microseconds and off for 990 microseconds, you will get 1% brightness - they can be controlled that precisely.   It's a lot harder in built commercial products, which have to work with a variety of existing dimmer technologies made for incandescents, and also hit a "price point" that will make you snatch it off the shelf at Home Depot.  The result of these compromises is lousy dimming range.


How do I waterproof old hardwood floors in my bathroom? My wife and I have a home built in 1912.  We love the house and its character, but sometimes it presents a challenge to the way modernity was retrofitted.  In this case, I have a bathroom with a wood floor.  Usually this is no problem - the shower is mounted on a clawfoot tub and it has curtains to contain the spray.  Incidental water gets on the floor, but that's really no problem.

The problem is when the toilet overflows.  When that happens, the flood of water seeps through the floor and through the ceiling of the room below and causes water damage in the ceiling as well as making a mess.  Is there a way to seal this wood floor so that water can't get through, while still preserving the character of the floor (i.e., not just covering it in vinyl)?

I think that you should focus on the cause not the symptom.

So, what causes the toilet to overflow?

Is it a filling valve issue? have you checked?

Is the drain partially blocked?

Once you sort that then the floor should be fine.


What is the proper way to wire a light switch,fan switch and receptacle in one box? I would like to see a wiring diagram on how to wire two switches and a receptacle in one box with a single line feed, three wires.

If you're trying to use a single cable with only 3 wires, one of the switches will do nothing.


Using LED light bulbs in a dimmer I have this light fixture:

that used halogen light bulbs (philips ecovantage, 500 lumens, 120v, PAR FLOOD25) - ll failed during the same week but one:

I wanted to replace them with those LED light bulbs:
http://www.amazon.ca/Globe-Electric-30822-Directional-Equivalent/dp/B00KFWME2A

When I put them in the fixture, they won't do anything at all even if the dimmer is maxed. I tried them in another socket in the apartment, and the globes do work. I left the halogen bulb in, so now I have 4 unlit LED light bulbs and 1 lit halogen light bulb. Why is that? They were pretty expensive :(

Thanks

Many dimmers need a minimum wattage load to function. Four of the LEDs is 29.2W and is probably too low for the dimmer. The single remaining halogen alone is 39W (I assume it worked with the dimmer alone) so it's close. Try replacing the dimmer with one designed for LEDs.


New GFCI outlet not working We just moved into a 2001 home. All the switches and outlets are that nasty beige color, so I am replacing them all with white switches, outlets and covers. Problem in the kitchen GFCI: I wired in a new GFCI outlet the same as the old one, and it won't reset. Totally dead. I reinstalled the old one and it works fine.  Any ideas please?

GFCI receptacles can go bad, and even new ones can be defective.  Try another one.  (And, of course, triple check that you are wiring to the LINE terminals.  And confirm that the one you are replacing will successfully Test and Reset so you know you have a clean load.)


water leak in hot water line I have a leak close to the water shut off under the bathroom vanity. I am trying to replace the pipe leaking but there is still some water dripping out of the line and cannot stop it. Piece of bread didn't work, it will not hold enough time for me to make the repair. Would I have to actually drain the hot water tank. That would be a thought I had but is it necessary?

Sometimes draining just a few inches of water from the tank will provide enough relief in pressure to stop the dripping, if it is indeed siphoning back from the tank.  It's also possible that you just need to wait a bit longer for all the water to drip out.  Opening all the other faucet valves and flushing the toilets with the water off will also help drain the system.

I would avoid the bread if you can, though it will flush though the pipes OK, it will gum up all your aerators and valves.

If you do need to work on a pipe with water in, they sell Pipe Freezing kits which you apply upstream of the work area. These will give you 15-30min to work on the pipe while the ice block you created melts.


Why isn't my garage door opener button working on new installation? I recently installed a garage door opener in my new home, it is wired as such per the installation instructions.

The garage was prewired with 20AWG, insulated and drywalled, and I identified which wires go where by testing continuity.  For the first couple days everything went swimmingly, then suddenly the button stops "working".  The opener is responding to the wireless remotes and it responds to the wireless keypad, however the button doesn't trigger an open/close event.

The button light is ON, and it switches off when the button is depressed, then switches back on when the button is released however the singal doesn't seem to be making it to the opener.  It is on warranty, so I called and they sent me a new button, however I am not sure thats the problem.

I tried shorting the red and white wire from the button because thats how I opened the garage door at my last house (the button was smashed, just had two wires hanging on the wall that I touched together), however shorting the wires did nothing.

I am thinking there is probably a bad relay in the opener.  Or maybe the door button for this model does something special?  What are your thoughts?

Model: Chamberlain LW3000

I finally got the new button in the mail from the warranty claim that I made.  I replaced the button and the door works perfectly now.

Thanks for your help and advice.


Don't bore/notch in middle third of a joist... span or member? Suppose I have a continuous joist supported somewhere in the middle. For ease let's say it's a 24 foot continuous joist, and there's a bearer right in the middle at the 12 foot mark.

Here's a picture I found online.

I know I should not notch or bore in the middle 1/3 of the joist. Does a bearer make this joist two spans per this image?

Can I notch between 0'-4', 8'-16', and 20'-24'?

Or 0'-8' and 16'-24'?

Answering my own question after a more thorough reading of the spec.

  R502.8.1 Sawn lumber. Notches in solid lumber joists, rafters and beams shall not exceed one-sixth of the depth of the
  member, shall not be longer than one-third of the depth of the member and shall not be located in the middle one-third of
  the span.

And it includes this very helpful graphic:

So the answer is:

A bearer does make a continuous joist into two spans.
I can notch between 0'-4', 8'-16', and 20'-24'.


Radiant heating with metal rods Can you run some sort of metal rod through your cement floor and connect that rod to a fireplace so when u use the fireplace it heats the rod and heats your house is that possible?

You can do whatever you like.
How well it works may vary drastically.
In this case, the odds are that it will work very poorly. More functional options tend to be a bit more complex and involve circulating fluids that are warmed by the combustion source through the slab in pipes. Direct conduction becomes very ineffective when distances are long.


How to fill an airtight box with a gas? Any idea how I can fill a standard, airtight plastic storage box (45 litres) with Argon? The naive solution would probably to "pour" Argon into the box since it is heavier than air, but there must be a better way. Maybe punch two holes into the lid and place a valve in each one? If so, how would I install these valves without compromising the air-tightness of the box?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Also, please move my question to another board if this is not the right board; however, I couldn't find a better fit.

Edit: Follow-up-questions: IIRC winegrowers use candles to determine whether there is enough oxygen available to breathe in their cellars. What if I put an open box in a cellar deprived of oxygen, leave it there for a day and then put a lid on? Can I expect the box to be filled mostly with CO or CO2 or whatever is down there?

Edit 2: Consensus seems to favour the vacuum bag solution. Thank you for all the great answers so far!

Note: This was based on insufficient information. I had no idea what this was for, and based on the initial information I came up with a way to effectively fill an empty box (with a balloon as a liner) with argon. Since the actual use is for storage of items within that box, as opposed to some scientific experiment involving small items placed into the box through an airtight hole or similar usage, the balloon method is not too practical as placing the items inside an uninflated balloon would not be easy. But since the answer still has some potential use, I am leaving it on the page.

I think you are going to have problems doing that. I will assume for the moment that it is really airtight - many times things are "basically" airtight but not 100%.

Start off by a common similar situation - filling a balloon with helium.

Do you start with a balloon full of air and push out the air with helium? No, because that would be very hard to do. In fact, if you tried to do that, you would actually end up with either the helium going in but no air going out - and end up with a 2x pressure mix of helium and air, or you would have to figure out a way to get the helium (which is lighter than air) in while getting air - and only air - to go out. Despite the difference in weight, that would not be an easy thing to do.

What do you do instead? You take an empty balloon and fill it with helium. There is no air to push out, so this works just fine.

With a hard plastic container (like a typical storage box), that just won't work - trying to push in argon would be similar to pushing helium into an air-filled balloon.

But that gave me an idea:

Get a LARGE latex balloon or similar airtight very flexible material. Large enough that filled/expanded it can fill the entire box but that initially it is empty.
Cut a hole in the lid of the box. Put a valve in the hole (bicycle tire valve?) and seal around it well.
Attach the empty balloon to the inside of the lid.
Put the lid on the box and make sure it is not sealed well. This is to allow the gas outside the balloon to escape as the balloon expands.
Attach your argon supply (tank?) to the valve and fill 'er up.
Seal the lid well. The balloon will be the primary airtight enclosure but the box, provided it is truly airtight, will be a secondary enclosure.

If you want to have a mixture - e.g., argon + air, or argon + helium or hydrogen + oxygen (not recommended!), use the same setup and fill up first with one gas and then the other.


How do I interpret my furnace clearance diagram? My brother-in-law and I are going to be finishing my basement.  We just got the permit from the building inspector.  When they returned my plans there was a note that told me to make sure furnace and hot water heater clearances were to manufacturer spec or 30".   30" seems like a lot so I headed to the manufacturer spec located on the furnace itself.

Does this mean 0" clearance is required on all sides and 24" in the front if the furnace is going to be enclosed in a closet? Am I interpreting this right?

I would interpret the drawing as you did,however the inspector mentioned 30". I would verify that there is not a local code that requires 30". Another thought is that if you install it with a zero clearance and it requires service acess may be an issue unless your design allows for an acess panel. Also you want to take into account that at some point the furnace will need to replaced. You don't want to add demolition and reconstruction of the space to the cost of the furnace.


What's involved in moving a support post? We found this house that we really like, but it needs substantial renovation for our taste.  The thing that killed it for us was the crazy kitchen countertop that has been narrowed to make way for a walkway.  It seemed like there was no feasible way to work around this because of the placement of the support post.  (See below photo)

So, I'm wondering:  Is it feasible to relocate a support post? The ideal location functionally would be to push the  post to the right of the photo (towards the painting of the bear), so that it's instead along the half wall of the silly narrowed counter.

Would it be possible to move this post to the right and still support the beam it's presently holding up?  If so, what would be involved in moving the post and presumably adding some kind of additional (steel?) beam work along the ceiling as needed?

Here's the view from the other side:

You would certainly need to consult a structural engineer and get all plans approved and permitted before beginning work. It will be expensive but since you indicate willingness here goes.... It is completely possible to relocate that post. The question will always be price and design. In my humble opinion the work isn't even all that difficult once you know exactly which material and sizes are required for the load.

That support post is compression support for the visible beam. In order to properly move it you would likely need to add two vertical support beams with a perpendicular cross member to take their place. This member would likely be steel.

That new beam could go below the existing beam (with the existing beam sitting atop it) but depending on the span and the load this would fill in significant headroom and break your clean ceiling line.

Alternatively, depending on the roof structure, you may be able to hang the new beam above the visible beam inside the attic space. This would have the added benefit of not eating interior headroom. You would probably place the vertical beams inside the wall where the bear painting is, and the wall to the left of the sink.

Either approach should work. Neither is significantly complex for a structural engineer. They will both likely be quite expensive to do.

EDIT: So how will they change it? What's involved? If you put the beam below the existing one, then temporary support posts will be constructed on both sides of the existing post. The post would then be removed and a replacement beam jacked in place beneath it.

If the beam is to be "hung" from a new crossmember then the existing post will stay in place while the new posts are built. The beam would be jacked up slightly from both sides, and a steel hanger bracket would be placed under it, fastening it to the new in-ceiling beam. Finally, the existing post is removed.

In both cases a support immediately below the beam, beneath the floor, should give support all the way to foundation which means that you may need to pour in the crawlspace and tie into the existing stem walls.


Found Well in Backyard -- How to install pump? In my backyard there is this well, I think, that has water in it.
As you can see, there is a well casing and then a pipe in between. I have no idea how to install a pump and such, and am not sure where to start. I would love the idea of watering the large front yard lawn, or my garden with water.
I tried to measure the depth with a stick (I thought the water was really high up) but it fell and I did hear a splash as it hit the bottom. As you can see, there is an electrical port above, there likely was a pump here before. My neighbor also has a well and has a pump system setup for some sprinklers (I think), but I'm not sure how it works.
How would I connect a pump to the black pipe, which ends right with the well casing? The well is set in an old concrete slab.

I would recommend that you call a local "well guy" and ask him the same questions. They have the expertise to do everything "well" related including determining if that pipe or casing is really for an old well. If it is a well, he may have even been the guy that drilled the original well or knows who drilled it to get the specs of that hole in the ground.


Tracing elctrical outlets that suddenly stopped working. Last fall an outdoor outlet and an outlet in my garage worked just fine.
However this spring neither of them work.
Any thoughts on how I can go about researching or identifying the problem?
I checked the circuit breaker and nothing is tripped, neither have a reset button on them.

Just not sure where to start with this.

I read some other posts, and these all turned out to be light switches that one didn't know about or a bad connection.  I have already reviewed the connections at both, I plugged a vacuum cleaner into both and walked around turn on light switches etc.

The two outlets are about 20 feet apart, one outside the other in the garage so they may or may not be on the same line, I am assuming right now they are because they both stopped working.

Bryce mentioned the answer.   Go to your downstairs bathroom and hit the 'reset' button on the outlet.  Betcha this fixes it.


Anything wrong with moving from a washable mesh HVAC filter to disposable? Currently my HVAC system has this inside it: https://www.discountfilters.com/air-filters/bryantcarrier-kfafk0212med-2-pack/p110138/

It's a washable mesh basically...and it doesn't seem to offer much protection from...well...anything. Seems like the only thing it could stop is a golf ball. Says "Merv 4".

I want to get a Merv 13 disposable filter to hopefully help with my seasonal allergies...found one on Amazon that will fit (it has a weird size...couldn't find something that size at Lowes). Seems much more substantial...looks pretty solid from the pictures. My question is will this hurt the furnace at all with the (I imagine) reduced airflow from the new heavier filter?

You may have the issue of a reduced flow rate as the system has been designed so that all the components “match”.

This could cause poor performance or even overheating as the motor works harder.

You could contact the manufacturer for their advice.


How deep of a notch can I cut into fence post? I have a 100 x 75mm fence post and want to cut a notch for a 70 x 45mm rail. If I cut the notch the full thickness of the rail it would only leave 30mm on the post. I'm assuming that's too much. Could I cut half of the 45mm thickness of the rail from the post and half from the rail? That would leave over 50mm on the post.

Based on the understanding that the second reference to post means a reference to rail, your approach is sound. You'll be removing the minimum amount from both components while retaining the maximum strength for both.

Removing half from each means that the rail will be offset in the post and not flush with either edge, which is not particularly a problem, unless the esthetics are critical.


30 Year old faucet cartridge replacement I have a leaky 2 handle bathroom faucet with the following cartridge below.
What brand is that cartridge/faucet (1st question), and is that so antiquated and old that I should replace the entire faucet (2nd question)? (It does not look like a design I've worked with previously.)
2nd question is more to, "oh no that's a terrible design and you shouldn't bother fixing that type of faucet," etc.. No need to effort replacing if this is not advisable.

Looks like a Price Pfister (or import copy thereof). Looks like a good quality faucet that is worth saving.
Note- you don't necessarily need to buy new "cartridges", these are totally rebuild-able unless physically damaged. The washers and o-rings should be readily available at a good hardware shop or plumbing shop (maybe not at big-box center). Waterproof grease and washers it will probably perform like new.
Look for Price Pfister widespread faucet parts. Bring the old because there are several configurations/types. If replacing stems/valves be aware that there are specific "left" and "right" because the levers move opposite of each other.


Caulk/Drywall crack between Shower/Tub and Wall? So I have what looks to be a small crack next to my shower/tub (One of the fiberglass inserts) and the wall next to it.

Im assuming this is just where the silicone/caulk has dried and cracked? Is there an easy fix to this outside of just tearing out all the silicone? The house is around 6 years old. it's such a small crack im wondering if I can sort of press in the silicone in the crack to give it some "pliability" since were literally selling this house in a month and i'd rather not have to tear out ALL the caulk around the shower. (BTW how big should the gap be? the gap between what seems to be the drywall and the shower insert seems to be...widish?

Photo: http://imgur.com/a/41JYb

Get yourself some painter's caulk (not pure silicone--acrylic with silicone is ok). Cut the nozzle tip small at a 30 degree angle. Slide the tip flat along the crack and force caulk into the void. Gently scrape any squeeze-out off with a damp finger or bit of cardboard. Wipe any smears off the surface of your drywall with a lightly damp cloth.

Wait a day and see how much shrink you get. Chances are you'll want to hit it again. Then paint if you didn't achieve a good color match.


Do I or do I not remove baseboards when refinishing my hardwood floor I need to have my wood floors refinished and have had several quotes. One person says they have the tools to get right up next to the baseboards and he does not need to remove them. He has 45 years of experience. The other companies do not have as much experience and they want to remove the baseboard and reinstall it.
I am worried that if they take off the baseboard there will be a line where the drywall paper is removed and when they replace it I will have major work painting and fixing it.
My husband is concerned that if they aren't taken off that it will look like the baseboard isn't seated on the floor. He is also concerned that the floor will slope.
The floor has been refinished once before with the baseboards not being removed. Any expert opinions out there? What should we do?

If this were my floor, I'd remove the baseboard molding so that the floor could be refinished properly.
Of course you can leave them in place but it will be impossible to get right to the edge with the refinishing equipment and the finishing products.
What you might do is ask your supplier who does not want to remove the baseboards to provide some references where you can go and see the end result if that's possible.
I'm not at all clear what affect either way would have on the slope of the floor.


Converting from 2 dimmer switches to 2 regular switches...need help Just bought a house. The house has aluminum wiring....there was 2 dimmer switches in the basement....only one of them worked...

I removed the 2 switches and removed the  copper pigtailing that was connected. I purchased 2 sets of both CO/ALR rated single pole and also 3 way switch as I was not sure which one I would use.

After removing the switches and the pigtails, I am left with these 6 wires.

The two green all the way on the right are for grounding.

The 3rd wire from the right, is the only one that reads hot when I turn on power and use the voltage tester

The 3rd from the right and the 4th from the right both go towards the back of the box, while the 2 furthest to the left head up towards the ceiling. Also, the wire furthest left is copper, and all the other are aluminum.

Can anyone give me some advice on the correct way to wire up 2 regular switches?

The problem with aluminum (old/bad-style or newer AA-8000) is in the terminations. There are a couple of problems:

Differing thermal expansion rates.  Aluminum terminations can tolerate copper wires because aluminum has a good spring rate.  However copper terminations won't "spring" under aluminum wire and will distort themselves or the aluminum, effectively loosening the connection with every cycle.
Dissimilar metals cause galvanic corrosion.  The fix is to use a corrosion inhibiting paste.

Over in Europe, wire nuts and stabs are not legal, and you must use screw-down terminaton blocks.  Interestingly, that type is also available in the USA, in the form of the "Alumiconn" splice connector, made specifically to repair aluminum-copper splices.   Here's an example of each, see the family resemblance.

(in the Euro connector, the round ports are for the screws, square for wires).  And by the way, you notice the Alumiconn is made of aluminum.  So are the neutral and ground buses in your panel, also the main lugs.  All these applications are also places where you should torque the screws to spec, so they perform properly during dissimilar metal expansion.  This is mandatory in the 2017 Electrical Code.

While you have a lot going on in those boxes, they are very deep boxes, not only a double-stacked box with a switch extension. There should be room for Alumiconns, and you'll need something like that on the neutrals and grounds too.  Wire nuts involving aluminum Just Don't Work, not even the purple ones supposedly listed for aluminum. Someone might convince me wire nuts can work if all the wires involved are aluminum and the nut is made specifically for all-aluminum, but I don't see anyone developing that product.

Those switches

One of them is just a straight hot-supply, switched-hot plain switch.  Straightforward.

I see a red wire in the mix, so that suggests at least one had once been a 3-way switch.  There may be another 3-way switch somewhere else that, if you throw it, the partner black wire to that red becomes energized.  (it matters which NM cable the wires are grouped in).  Perhaps you have another switch somewhere that "seems to do nothing".  Alternately, that black may go back to a failed Al-Cu splice.

Or was there a jumper between the two switches?

There is certainly more going on inside that box than simple switches, but apparently they are all on the same circuit, since the neutrals are all bundled (alternately the person who wired it may be a moron). It may be possible to simplify what's going on in there, perhaps with a little help from smart switches.


Staining a previously oiled fence My cedar fence has previously been treated with both marine oil and nut oil but I am no longer able to obtain these products in BC.  It is drying out badly and needs staining.  What prep work do I need to do prior to applying a stain.

you will have very mixed results applying a stain over any kind of preserving oil.  the preexisting residual oil will prevent stain penetration, and as it weathers further, the old oil will continue to breakdown, leaving areas with none of the new stain.

you can use tung oil or danish oil (both readily available in bc), but just remember, natural oil finishes essentially need to be redone annually

if you want to convert to a synthetic stain, it will need to be oil based, and you will have to apply 1 or 2 coats of mineral spirits to the wood first to re-dissolve the old oil finish and make it possible for the new oil based stain to saturate into the resulting old oil/mineral spirit solution


Best way to get rid of ceramic tiles over an asbestos tiled floor Just moved house and would like to re-do the kitchen. It looks like the previous owner has cemented ceramic tiles straight over an asbestos tiled floor! I'd like to get rid of the ceramic tile without disturbing the asbestos tiles underneath. Is this possible??

I'd like to get rid of the ceramic tile without disturbing the asbestos tiles underneath. Is this possible??

Probably not.

The ceramic tiles are serving as the "encapsulant" for the old asbestos, so if you disturb them you'll almost certainly disturb the asbestos.

You can either add another layer on top, or get the whole mess removed by somone licensed to deal with asbestos.


Is this dry well sturdy enough to walk over? I am planning to install a dry well sold in HomeDepot in my backyard. I am wondering if this dry well would be sturdy enough to walk over. If anybody has installed this product, could you share the experience?

If installed per instructions (buried a minimum of 8") walking on it should be fine. There is also an illustration of adding a vertical pipe in the middle to increase loading (probably a good idea with many of the heavier riding mowers.)


Texturing a wall with Joint Compound How can I fix this problem of the joint compound cracking on me, without starting all over?
I am using a Premixed Ready to use. What am I doing wrong?

It looks like the mix was a bit dry and a heavy knock down, if there is not enough moisture in the mud or the wall was not prepped well this happens. It is hard to tell is this a patch? If doing an entire area after taping and sanding I usually wipe the wall with a damp towel to remove dust, when I have large jobs done my mud slinger says why wast the time just add water (he is way faster than I am and his work looks good) so I would guess your pre mix is a bit dry you might be able to flake it off with a putty knife but it will need to be removed. Pre mix separates when sitting on the shelf so it needs to be mixed in most cases and for texture I usually add a fair amount of water, for heavy knock down about a cup to a box, for spray knockdown 2 or more cups let it sit then knock down. So to get back on track remove the material that is cracking add some water to your mud and give it another try. Texture is a bit of an art and the amount of water varies with the conditions both humidity and temperature.


How can I provide GFCI protection to my kitchen receptacles? I Live in Round Lake, Il., in a 1940's built home.
In my kitchen I have four counter top receptacles surrounding my sink area. Two of the receptacles are close to the sink, and I want to replace them with GFCI receptacles. The wiring is serviced by armored cable containing two insulated wires (blk/wht), and a very small non-copper uninsulated wire. All receptacles are on the same circuit, and appear to loop through the outlets from left to right. How can I install a GFCI receptacle to control this string of receptacles.

Simply replacing the first receptacle in the group with a GFCI receptacle, will provide protection to the entire group (if wired properly).
GFCI Receptacle
Locate the feeders
WARNING:
This procedure should only be carried out by persons with the proper tools and knowledge. And should be carried out with extreme caution.
When you open up the box containing the first receptacle in the group, you're going to notice two cables enter the box.  One cable brings power from the breaker/fuse box (feeder), and the other carries power to the remainder of the circuit.  You'll have to figure out which cable is which, so you know how to connect the GFCI receptacle.

Start by turning off the power at the breaker/fuse box.
Disconnect the receptacle, and position all the wires so that they will not contact each other or anything else conductive.
Turn the power back on.
Using a multi-, voltage or non-contact meter determine which set of wires is which. The feed from the breaker/fuse box will have power, while the line going to the rest of the circuit will not.
Mark the wires in some way, and turn the power back off.

WARNING:
If you got a voltage reading on more than one set of wires, STOP, do not follow the rest of these instructions. contact a local Electrician.
Connect the GFCI
On the GFCI receptacle you'll notice that one set of terminals is labeled "LINE", and the other is labeled "LOAD".

Connect the wires from the cable you marked as being from the breaker/fuse box, to the terminals labeled "LINE" (Black to brass, white to silver, green/bare to green/ground and the box if it's metal).
Connect the wires from the other cable to the terminals labeled "LOAD".
Install the receptacle into the box.
Turn the power on.
Press the Reset button on the GFCI receptacle.

WARNING:
If the receptacle will not reset, the wiring is connected incorrectly, or contains a fault.  Contact an Electrician to complete the job.
GFCI Breaker
Alternatively, you can install a GFCI breaker to protect the entire circuit.
WARNING:
This procedure should only be carried out by persons with the proper tools and knowledge. And should be carried out with extreme caution.

Turn off the breaker.
Remove the black wire from the terminal on the breaker.
Locate the white "neutral" wire associated with the circuit (should originate from the same cable).
Remove the white "neutral" wire from the neutral bus bar.
Remove the breaker (Caution should be used not to touch the hot bus bar while the breaker is removed).
Install the GFCI breaker.
Connect the white wire from the GFCI breaker to the neutral bus bar.
Connect the white "neutral" wire from the circuit to the GFCI breaker.
Connect the black "hot" wire from the circuit to the GFCI breaker.
Turn the breaker on.

WARNING:
If the breaker will not reset, the wiring is connected incorrectly, or contains a fault.  Contact an Electrician to complete the job.
Test the GFCI
Once the GFCI device is installed, it should be tested at least once a month to insure it's functioning properly.

Press the Test button.
Press the Reset button.

If the GFCI will not reset, the GFCI is bad, the wiring is incorrect, or there is a fault.  Correct any faults, and/or install a new GFCI device.


Why has my 10 year old ceiling fan suddenly started shocking me through the fan pull chain? My fan has been working fine for ten years now and suddenly if I’m barefoot and touch the metal pull chain it lightly shocks me, but does not if I have shoes on.
Does this mean I need a new fan or is it some electrical issue in my ceiling?

DANGER!!!
This sounds like a ground fault. They are particularly dangerous if you get wet, which is why Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters have been required for many years in kitchens and bathrooms, among other places.
If you have shoes on, you are insulated from the floor. Without shoes, a little bit of electricity makes its way from the fan through you to the floor. A little bit of electricity can be fatal if it passes through your heart, so this is a serious problem.
Why would a fan suddenly have this problem? Hard to say for sure, but anything with moving parts can have a small problem - e.g., a moving part of the motor rubbing on insulation - eventually become a big problem.
As much as we all like to have things last "forever", the reality is that many appliances, small and large, typically last in the range of 10 - 15 years. Sometimes, as with televisions and other electronics, they become obsolete. But with many other devices they simply wear out.
While the problem may be repairable, unless this is a high-end fan I don't think it is worth the effort and the risk of not quite fixing it correctly. This is particularly the case since fans are normally hardwired but not on GFCI, so there is no easy "early warning system" as there would be if you simply plugged it into a GFCI receptacle.


Bosch Dishwasher check water light flashing I live in the UK and have a 3 year old built-in Bosch dishwasher, model number smv50c00gb/14. It finished a cycle ok but then started beeping and flashing the "check water" red light. The only way to stop this is to power off at the mains. When I turn the power back on, after a few seconds the light starts flashing. The beeping also resumes and the dishwasher makes a rumbling sound.

I've tried tipping the dishwasher but that didn't help. I've also tried cleaning the filter om the input pipe.

In the end, the solution was to tip the dishwasher backwards but at a far greater angle - about 60 degrees. This lead to a small amount of water running onto the floor and the problem was fixed.


Cabinet LED strip question I'm thinking of putting in a single color LED strip for under cabinet lighting and RGB LED strip for over cabinet lighting, both with dimmers. I plan to plug in a power supply above the microwave cabinet which has one plug free, can i connect both LED strips and dimmers onto a single power supply? Of course the paths of current will be separated (i.e first set of red and black wires going down for under cabinet and second set going up for the RGB strip from the power supply). Also, does the type of power supply matter?

I plan to use one of these dimmers for the single color LED strip
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51qedrgjUPL.SY355.jpg
OR
http://www.photo138.com/0/AWS/YC00400-1.JPG

And for the RGB strip, either a 24 or 44 key remote IR controller.

Answers are welcome!

Yes, it's fine to share the DC power supply, as long as it has enough capacity for the lights at absolute max power.

5050's take 1.2 amps per 60 LEDs (typically 1 metre), 0.4A per channel.
3528's take 0.4 amps per 60 LEDs (typically 1 metre).


Filling an outdoor drain with concrete to reduce standing water I have a semi-outdoor drain that looks like this (I have removed the grate):

The container of the drain is plastic, and there is a good 6 inches from the bottom of the drain to the pipe where the water leaves the drain.

This water never evaporates, and it has eventually turned into compost. This is bad right? I try to empty it every so often.

I would like to fill the bottom 6 inches of the drain with concrete so that the amount of standing water is minimized.

Is concrete the right material to use? It feels wrong filling a plastic container with concrete. Was there some good reason this drain was designed this way? If I don't use concrete, what material should I use?

Sumps typically have standing water, as Jasen mentions, part of the reason of having them is a sediment trap to prevent debris from going into the storm drain.  All that "compost" didn't end up in the storm drain.  You also likely don't want that compost entering your pipe and possibly getting a clog.  A deeper sump pit means you have to clean it out less often.

Is there something specific you worry about?


When wiring a switch loop, which wire is which? If you're wiring up a lighting circuit, where the power enters at the lighting outlet. According to the National Electrical Code, which wire should be "hot" and which should be "switched hot"?
Question in graphical form:

Bonus points if you can reference relevant code section(s).

It doesn't matter, it's in the past

In the old days (pre 2011 code adoption), National Electrical Code said that if a wire with white or gray insulation or a marking of three white or gray continuous stripes is used as part of a switch loop to single-pole, 3-way, or 4-way switches. The conductor should be permanently reidentified, and should be used for the supply to the switch but not the return (200.7(C)(2)).

  National Electrical Code 2008

  Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection

  Article 200 Use and Identification of Grounded Conductors

  200.7 Use of Insulation of a White or Gray Color or
  with Three Continuous White Stripes.

  (2) Where a cable assembly contains an insulated conductor
  for single-pole, 3-way or 4-way switch loops and
  the conductor with white or gray insulation or a marking
  of three continuous white stripes is used for the
  supply to the switch but not as a return conductor from
  the switch to the switched outlet. In these applications,
  the conductor with white or gray insulation or with
  three continuous white stripes shall be permanently reidentified
  to indicate its use by painting or other effective
  means at its terminations and at each location
  where the conductor is visible and accessible.

So before 2011 NEC adoption, the wiring should look like this.

The future

According to the 2011 code...

  National Electrical Code 2011

  Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use

  ARTICLE 404 Switches

  I. Installation

  404.2 Switch Connections.

  (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. Where switches control lighting loads supplied by a grounded general purpose branch circuit, a grounded circuit conductor shall be provided at the switch location.

A grounded (neutral) conductor is now required at each switch location (see code for exceptions), which means the circuit would now have to look like this...

Or


Why did I receive an electric shock from my microwave? I was doing the washing up and the microwave is next to the place where I put the dishes and I went to put it down and my hand touched the side of the microwave and I got an electric shock for a bout 2-3 seconds (felt like vibrating in my hand). I checked the plug socket when I was feeling better and the switch was not on. how could this happen?

It was a double socket in the wall the microwave one was switched off and the other one was on.

This is why GFCI sockets are used in kitchens.

It sounds like you have a bad ground circuit or possibly switched hot and neutral wires on the sockets.

Time to call in an electrician before someone dies.

My congratulations on your survival, we once lived in a house that developed some sort of issue that caused the cold water tap outside the front door to be hot. I found out about the bite and dangers of electricity when I was 5 years old.


How do I use self-drilling and tapping SS screws? I've got an aluminum pole set consisting of multiple segments that need to be connected together to form one long pole using self-drilling and tapping SS screws.  I've never used this type of screw and I am unfamiliar with how I should proceed.  The directions that came with the product are very vague about what I should do, saying only:

"You will use a series of pre-drilled holes, spaced approximately 1-1/2" and 7-1/2" inches from each end, to join the large tubing to the small tubing. These holes are space 120 degrees apart. At the appropriate time you will secure with self-drilling and tapping SS screws."

The pre-drilled holes are very small, much smaller than the width of the screws, which appear to have a rather wide tip unlike a normal screw which has a sharp tip, so I'm not sure how I am supposed to get the screw to engage with the hole.  Furthermore, there is no slot to put the screwdriver or drill bit  into the screw, so I'm not sure how I'm even supposed to drive it.

Do yours look like this?

The straight portion of the shaft doesn't have to be as small as the pre-drilled pilot holes in the poles.  Notice the angled point and the lip ("flute") along the edge: that's a built-in drill bit on the tip of the screw. It will open up the hole to the diameter it needs.  The pre-drilled holes in the poles are there to start it out straight, in the right place; the screw will do the rest.

The hex head doesn't have a screwdriver slot because it is designed for a socket wrench.

It's very common for the heads on these screws to fit a US 1/4-inch socket.

Get a socket wrench, or a socket driver adapter for your drill, and go for it.  It'll work.


Water won't drain completely from my bath sink I live in an apartment, my bath sink won't drain completely. The drain isn't slow it just never drains completely.  The standing water becomes slimy if not cleaned every day.   I think there must be some design flaw in the sink itself.  I'm also concerned that the slimy water is a health issue.

This is typically caused by too shallow a slope from the p-trap back to the 'Y' . That pipe is called a dirty lateral, because it fills up with gunk instead of flowing downstream to the main.

If you can open the cabinet below the sink and look back to the wall, the P-trap loop should be higher than where drain line exits into the wall. (Makes sense that the water should flow down, then loop, then out with a gentle slope, right?)

If the p-trap is too low, water rests in the drain lateral, and could back up....you can raise the p-trap to get better flow out.

If the p-trap is already above the wall exit, then I would clean out the sink tail piece as follows:

Sop up extra liquid in the sink, empty the cabinet, put down junk towels, and remove the p-trap...holding it upright to not spill as you go pour it into the toilet. With the trap removed, you should be able to shine a flashlight down from the sink bowl and see a whistle clean tube.

Duh, don't turn on any water while the sink is inn this condition.

If the stopper is in the way, remove it by disconnecting it from the control (usually with a squeeze friction clamp on the control level.) Once the stopper is out of the way, you can clean the inside of the tail piece with a small disposable rag and a coat hanger...just don't use too big of a rag and get it stuck.

After it is clean, reassemble the stopper, control lever assembly, and put the ptrap back onto the sink tail piece. All the plastic threads/fittings should be hand tight, no need to wrench them and risk cracking them.


How to fit a length of drainage PVC pipe between two existent fittings I need to connect two lines of 100mm PVC that are about 1,5 meter apart, they are about 50 cm sloped from each other, so I tought about using two 45° elbows. See image below (black: existing fittings, blue: new piping, orange: elbows).

As far as planning goes it was all fine, but I cannot make the new pipe fit between the ones already in place, they are not "bendy" enough... What is the proper way to do it?

BTW: This is a drainage pipe.

For drainage, you can use a mechanical gear type coupling such as a fernco coupling:

You can slide it over the pipe you're installing, and then once the pipe is in place, slide it back over the joint and tighten the gear clamps.


How to run wires to panel from joists My electrical panel is in the basement and all of the wires are running to the panel from above.  There isn't any room to run more wires through the top without drilling and hitting the existing wiring.   Can I run the wires down the 2x4 next to the panel and enter through the bottom?   Is this acceptable?   I don't want to have to rip it out later.

Go ahead

You can run cables or conduits into a modern electrical panel anywhere it has a KO of the right size that is accessible and free.  You will need to fit a cable clamp (for NM/UF) or cable fitting (for AC/MC) to the KO, though.


What is a reasonable depth and diameter for postholes dug in clay soil to support an 8' fence? What is a reasonable depth and diameter for postholes dug in clay soil where the frost line is no more than 12” and that will support an 8 foot tall solid wood fence that uses PostMaster metal posts?

I hope to have someone else install an 8 foot high PT wood fence.  There will be no light or air passing through or under the fence and it will be heavier than average, given the additional height and board weight.  One side will run for 135’.  The attached diagram provides more detail.

The PostMaster Installation Instructions describe a 30” deep, sloped, 10” diameter hole, filled with 6” of gravel plus 24” of concrete for a 6 foot high fence.  They caveat that the “exact diameter and depth will be determined by local weather and soil conditions.”  Got it.  Huntsville, AL; very clay soil.  Maximum wind gusts of 65 mph.  (This is not in the normal tornado path and is not intended to withstand a tornado.)

In reviewing the StackExchange posts on fencing and post holes I came across the concept that the diameter of the pier may be increased to compensate for a shallower post hole.

I would like to know the recommended depth and diameter without relying on the 2 buttress posts, which are my small overbuild idea.  We will be able to walk under them.

26 APR 18 update: I just found a Master Halco youtube video specifying 6-8" diameter holes dug 36" deep for an 8' board-on-board fence, such as I would like to have.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgjryMn7jI4
- I also spoke to a fence builder experienced using PostMaster posts who opined that the 10" diameter and 30 deep holes were more than adequate, but that the gravel was of no value in our climate.  So, 30" x 10" dia inches of concrete vs. 36" x 8" dia of concrete.

I say the 30" depth of post hole is adequate for said fence with given construction method; no need for additional support.


How can I have a ceiling light and separate fan on the same switch? I have two ceiling lights in the bedroom on the same switch. I replaced one with a fan with no light. Now I can not turn the fan on without the light coming on.

How can I remedy this?

You must add another switch and wire and separate the fan wiring from the light.

or

Buy a fan WITH a light and remove the other light.


wiring two 110 v outlets from one 220 v outlet The Q & A at this link was close to my question, but not quite there. heating elements.

I have a 220 v single phase, 30 amp, 4 plug box fed with 10 AWG x 3, plus ground romax in my garage. I plug my 220 v powertools into it. I have two 110v heating elements which each draw about 10-12 amps which I would like to run this way because of the high amperage available. I understand from the previous Q and A that by wiring 240 v in series to two 120 v appliances, you are able to effectively run them both without frying them. I thought "spectacular, I will do that." But then I remembered that the 220v in my house comes on two separate runs of 110v, and not one run of 220v. It appears that the previous example was talking about one run of 240v, in which case, I can see how that would work. Having said all this, can this somehow still work? In other words, is there a way to get 220 v to the beginning of my series circuit, and return it on the neutral? Do I need a transformer to do this? Would sure appreciate any advice.

Ok so that connection socket is a NEMA 14-30 and is intended for a dryer.

You say you are plugging 240V tools into it now.  Are these tools sized for a 30A circuit?  Or are they smaller draw (<4800W) and you just cheater-corded them into this receptacle? That does not provide safe overcurrent protection.

If all your 240V power tools are >3840 watts

Stay with the NEMA 14-30 receptacle.

You can also install another 14-30 in parallel with it.  You can't pull them both together over 30A, but this spares you from constantly plugging and unplugging the fragile sockets.

Now there are only two legit ways to split this out for 120V loads: make it a subpanel, or install a PSU like those intended to distribute power to a rack of servers.   The subpanel option is maybe $60-80 and the PSU option probably $200.

If all your 240V loads are 4800 watts or less

You can use the subpanel or PSU option to split up the 30A supply.

Or you should be changing your breaker to 20A and changing that fat receptacle to a NEMA 6-20 type (which they make in duplex receptacles if you look widely enough).  Your appliances should get NEMA 6-15 plugs, or 6-20 if they exceed 2880 watts.

Once done, you can also connect 120V receptacles (the common NEMA 5-15/20)  in the fashion of a "multi-wire branch circuit" or MWBC.

Those get wired as neutral to neutral, and line to one of the 240V legs.   It's also possible to split a double receptacle to power each socket off an opposite 240V leg.  This would allow you to put two 240V sockets and two opposite-pole 120V sockets in that same 2-gang junction box.

Take care to wire all 120V sockets so that if you removed the socket, that would not break the neutral for anything downstream.  This is a Code requirement.

Pencil in a budget of $25 for all this stuff, unless your breaker is GFCI/AFCI, then more like $100.

Lastly, common sense applies: just because you can plug many things in, does not mean you can run them all at once.

One more thing.  Are you sure you're saving any money going with 120V heaters?  Cheap foreign-made $20 heaterfans are complete pieces of junk that might last a season.   A 2000W, 240V baseboard heater is only $50, and they're a heck of a lot better value, not least because they'll last 20 years.

Continuous loads must be derated 20%, which becomes 1440W, 1920W, 2880W or 3840W respectively.


How many Amps in a Garage. AND how to maintain consistent lighting from an outlet (no flickering) I have two questions that hopefully someone more experienced than me can answer.

Background: I am doing a claymation in a garage and need to set up a lighting system that requires (a.) lots of wattage and (b.) constant voltage so lighting stays extremely consistent [doesn't get dim or flicker despite other people using outlets].

The garage is connected to about 20 other garages in an apartment complex, so it is not a typical house hold garage.

Question 1: (A.) There is one outlet on the garage ceiling. How many amps would you assume is connected to this outlet (20? 50? 100?) It may be impossible to know but perhaps there is a standard amount of amps that apartment garages need to have. I figure it would have to be more than 20 because if 4 garages are opened at the same time, the breaker would trip.

(B.) How many watts could I draw from this one outlet?

(C.) How can I find out how many amps are in the garage? Where would the circuit breaker be to find it?

Question 2: The lights I have set up go dim periodically (perhaps when others open their garage). How do I maintain constant light? (Voltage stabilizer, online ups?) I'm not sure what those are, but what is my best option to make sure those lights are always a consistent brightness?

More current! What are you using for lighting - arc lamps?

As an animator and photographer myself I'd want to run the lighting as cool as possible. There are some great LED lights out there (or you could build your own). For small stages I've even used LED torches for highlights.

LEDs also have the advantage of running from a regulated DC supply (which gets around your droop problem). You can control intensity (PWM) and color temperature control (LEDs come in all sorts of colors).

Modern digital cameras (video and still) operate quite happily in lower light conditions giving well saturated color.

Just on a Health and Safety point

(1) Drawing a higher current than the wiring was designed to take greatly increases the risk of fire. You really do not want to cause a fire. The fact that your lights dim means that the system is straining to cope with normal demand.

(2) Hot lights can also cause fires. Especially with various artist's materials being used (bits of paper, paint etc.)


How to modify and redirect the tankless water heater steam exhaust away from the house? I am seeking help from this community to come up a creative solution on how to make a minor/elegant modification to direct the steam exhaust to go outside and away from the house. Right now, it will fill up the gated utility room area and go up to the eve of the front porch area (may cover up the house vent at times). It's not possible to direct it to the rooftop per my contractor. This is in San Francisco area. Thank you so much for your suggestion and ideas in advance.

The fact that this is PVC (type IV ducting) tells me this should already be a condensing unit, so the amount of steam should already be minimal.

There's nothing stopping you from projecting that pipe further away from your house as long as it doesn't get withing 3 feet of your neighbor.

Based on your interior pictures, I'd recommend just drilling another hole in he side of your house closer to where your unit (which is generally the preferred way to vent the unit), which should move the steam far enough from your house vent based on the pictures you provided.

Else, if you think you are still likely to have issues with the exhaust, you really should move it up to the roof / chimney.

However, as long as you don't obstruct the airflow, you could minimize the steam of the current outside vent by running it into something like a dryer vent bucket:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Indoor-Dryer-Vent-Kit-TDIDVKHD6/203626526

Be aware, that the exhaust from high efficiency water heaters is acidic and will eat away at any metals that might be part of your pail setup.


How much does it cost to move a furnace from the attic down to the first floor? I have a one story slab home and when I moved in two years ago I had to replace the whole unit. I wasn't even thinking about having them put the unit on the first floor. There is a closet(which is a hall closet) that is right by where I have the wall vent for my air run. I was wondering if I could use that hall closet for the furnace and what else I would have to have done to make it possible to have the furnace on the first floor.

Six Things to Consider:

Electrical - Generally easy to move
Natural Gas (if it is a natural gas furnace)
Output Air - might require one big duct between old and new but there may be alternatives.
Return Air - similar to Output Air
Combustion Exhaust
Connection to air conditioner (if you have one) - typically a couple of pipes for input and output.

Except for electrical, all of these require some real planning to make sure they can be done safely and effectively and at a reasonable price. But hard to guess as variables include:

type of furnace
access to old and new locations
walls between old and new locations


How can I remove these screws from shutters? I am trying to pull some wood shutters off vinyl siding. The screws are placed into what looks like a cylinder (I believe it is called an "anchor"), which itself looks attached to the siding. But when you get working on the screws, instead of coming out, they simply spin and make a popping noise every once in awhile. How can I get these shutters off?

Note: This is not simply one isolated screw; none of them will come out on any of the shutters. I have also put a crowbar behind the shutter to pull it from the wall so that the screw would "catch", but that didn't work either.

Have you tried just pulling the screw?  If it is a plug anchor it should just pull right out with moderate force. If it is a toggle-like anchor (where something expands behind the wood), try pulling the screw until it feels tight, then hold the anchor with a pair of pliars and try turning the screw.

Worst case just cut the screw off with a pair of tin snips, a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel, etc. Once the screw head is off you can probably just push the rest of the screw and anchor into the void behind the wall.


Installing roof truss diagonal bracing: splice plate where braces cross? I'm looking at installing diagonal bracing to my roof trusses as described on page 77 of the document at http://www.dwbgroup.co.uk/files/8013/5284/7141/Gang_Nail_Trussed_Rafter_Manual.pdf but am unable to find a supplier of the "22 x 97 x 600mm long timber splice plate" which is specified as a binder to protect the braces where they cross each other.  The only similar product I've been able to find locally is 25 x 110 x 335mm.  As this is not being used to join the timber but just (as far as I can see from the available documentation) protect it from damage caused by it moving against the brace running in the opposite direction, would it be possible to cut this down to size in the directions where it is too large using a grinder, and use 2 pairs of them rather than just a single pair to extend the length?

If the purpose of the plans is to just protect against damage, I think your plan is probably fine (you might not even have to cut them down to size, I don't see the problem with it overhanging a little bit).

However, it's not clear to me based on that document exactly what the purpose of the splice plates are. To me it sounds like the splice plates are on the outside faces of the braces, nailed through from both sides.

I would call the truss manufacturer to find out specifically what their bracing requirements are.


How should I repair this poor deck rim joist connection? Still working on a deck rehabilitation, and I ran into another interesting problem.  When building the deck, rather than trimming the siding corner cap, some genius decided to simply build around it.  They stopped the ledger short of the corner cap, nailed in an extension piece to the face of the ledger, then nailed the rim joist into the end of the extension piece.

The framing in the corner of deck looks like this.

To make matter worse. There's a single step attached to the rim joist, which is unsupported (sank into the ground). Every time somebody steps on the step, it yanks on the rim joist. This has caused the rim joist to begin to be pulled away from extension piece (since it's nailed into the end grain of the piece).

I'm obviously going to fix the sinking step issue, but I'd like to find a better way to attach the rim joist as well.

I was thinking of installing a 90° strongtie on the inside corner of the joint. Unfortunately, I can't get a driver in to drive screws (don't want to use nails into the rim joist, because that wouldn't be any stronger than what's already there).

The other thought was to put a 90° bracket on the top of the extension and rim joist.  The problem there, is that it would be in the way when attaching my decking boards.

What should I do to make this connection stronger?

Try 2 Simpson HTT4s. The clip is screwed to the short ledger and long carriage bolts are drilled through the joists to draw back the floppy rim joist. Long bolts with washers will hold better too in my opinion, but may not look as neat.


Should bypass valve on water softener be turn off every time you shut the water to the house? I am a plumber and need to change the water heater. I always turn off the bypass valve of the water softener before I shut off the water to the house. I just need to know if this step is necessary or could it harm the water softener in any way. Should the bypass valve on the water softener be turn off every time I shut off the water to the house?

Thank you.

My only concern would be if you are doing some work UPSTREAM from the softener that might create or dislodge some debris, then switching to bypass will prevent that from messing up the works of the softener.


Help diagnosing source of basement moisture Hoping your experience can help figure out where moisture is coming from in my basement. I tried to include a lot of details to help identify issue.
I have a house built in 2008 with finished basement in Northeast Ohio. House has poured concrete outside walls. Inside wall is 2x4 wall sitting on pressure treated plate. There is fiberglass batt insulation between studs and 1/2" drywall on it.
About a week ago, wife told me that there is musty smell in basement and baseboards are turning black. It was mold on baseboards, so I pulled them off and concrete floor underneath was very moist. Pressure treated under drywall looked black and was soaked. I assumed there was a vertical crack in concrete wall so I started opening up the wall looking for cracks (We had 4 top-to-bottom cracks before that I fixed with 2 part epoxy resin). Long story short, I did not find any cracks in the walls, but every cavity I opened up, PT plate was moist with limited amount of mold on paper backer. Concrete side of batt insulation also felt little moist and I think I saw a couple of water drips when opening up cavities. Concrete wall behind batting was moist in some cavities, but dried out in 15-20 mins after opening cavity. Drywall screws & baseboard nails in Pressure treated were rusty as well.
Not finding signs of leakage, I pulled up corner of carpet and there was lot of moisture under padding, but it wasn't pooling. Carpet padding had a plastic top layer. This appears to have blocked moisture from coming up as carpet above was dry and clean. There was some mold on upper side on edges of carpet where baseboard was touching carpet, but no more. Tack boards were badly molded.
I pulled up carpet further and noticed that moisture & mold stopped halfway down each wall. If you look at the drawing, the blue area indicates where moisture was. Past this area, floor was dry and tack boards looked like new (baseboard was moldy, I assume because of wicking).
I think the issue is that moisture gets trapped between concrete wall and batt insulation. Then it makes its way down to floor getting pressure treated soaked and continue under carpet where it permanently gets trapped by padding.
However, why is only this one corner getting wet? If condensation is the problem, shouldn't entire perimeter be wet?
Can downspout be the issue? Ground on side with downspouts drops a foot over 6ft before it flattens out. I always thought that was plenty good. Now, I extended the downspout 4 ft away from the house.
Am I on the right track? Way off? Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Can downspout be the issue?

For sure. You definitely don't want the downspout dumping at the foundation line. Ideally you'd have it exit several feet away from your foundation (via an elbow or a splash block or what have you).

Ultimately, the water has to be carried away from that corner of your property. Does your property slope away from that corner or is that a possible place where water is collecting from other parts of the property?

You may need to put in some surface drains to migrate that water to a lower part of the property. I'd also check to see if you can find out how high the water table is on your property. Alas, you can't do much about high water tables.


How to finish wood stair treads? I ordered the wood for my staircase and now I need to decide on which product to use.

Some people recomened polyurethane or some water base resin, but I don't like that (I think it might crack and/or scratch).

Apart from that there are some varnishes available that are meant to protect from sun/water with guarantee of 3-5 years.

I'm also considering using some kind of oil/wax, but in Brazil finish oils are hard to come by. I think that I might find mineral oil, carnauba wax and bee wax.

The wood I'm using is rated at about 1750 pounds-force on the Janka scale, should I be worried about the wood getting damaged by constant walking?

10 years ago I used some red oak stair treads and put Minwax stain, an oil based product. I waited  a few days for drying, then put three coats of satin polyurethane on them with a very light sanding between coats. We use these stairs several times a day and they do not look worn in the least.


Will plaster on basement walls and ceiling provide insulation? My basement's insides are completely unfinished. It has bare brick walls and bare concrete beams-vaults as the ceiling. I though of coating the walls and the ceiling with 2 inch thick plaster with the objective being that the house's ground floor won't be so cold in the winter. I thought of doing it myself with plaster since I do not have the budget for fibers, panels, gels, foams or any other insulation.

Can I buy a few sacks of plaster, mix it with water, apply a 2 inch coating and get a reasonable, yet inexpensive, insulation ? Would plaster make the ground floor less cold or would it be a complete waste of my time ?

According to Bon, plaster has an R-value of about 0.12/inch, so your plan will give you about 0.24.  That little insulation is not going to be of any practical value (R-0.24 means you're stopping about 4% of the heat transfer).  Comparatively, EPS or XPS has a value of 3.5-5/inch (stopping 72-80% of the heat transfer) and will help with keeping things warm.


1 double throw switch 3 lights one position only 2 of the same 3 lights in the other position Can I wire a double throw switch so three lights are on in one position, but only two of the same three lights are on in the other position?

Assuming you mean to use a three-position switch so that you can also turn all the lights off, the answer is -- yes, you can do this, but it is expensive and moderately difficult.

You need to use a double-pole double-throw center-off wall switch. These are available from Leviton and Grainger for about $55 to $105. I couldn't find a cheaper vendor.

There are several ways to wire it. Here is one:

In the down position, lamps 1 and 2 are lit. In the up position, all three lamps are lit.

For my money, I would just use two single-pole single-throw switches in a 2-gang box. You could connect two lamps to one switch and one lamp to the other, or you could wire them like this:

With A and B off, all three lamps are dark. With A off and B on, all three lamps are dark.

With A on and B off, lamps 1 and 2 are lit and lamp 3 is dark.

With A and B on, all three lamps are lit.


MyInfinity thermostat dropping connection with Carrier server My MyInfinity thermostat keeps randomly dropping connection carrier server. Wifi connectivity is stable (Arris TG1682g modem). Thermostat panel shows not connected to www.api.ing.carrier.com

Thermostat Model number: systxccitc01-b
Software version: 131625-01.32

Any ideas on what may be causing this and how to fix this? Thanks.

Had the same issue with the Carrier thermostat shown in the picture.  Exact same symptoms - connected to the home network, but would not stay connected to the Carrier network, could not link to weather forecasts, etc. However, had an older Carrier thermostat upstairs (on the same network) and it was working fine. Noted that the DNS settings on the troublesome thermostat looked odd so compared with the DNS settings on the working thermostat.  They didn't match so I entered the settings from the working thermostat into the troublesome thermostat.  Waited about 15-20 minutes for the new DNS settings to propagate and now it is working fine.  Not sure how it lost the DNS settings in the first place nor why they didn't get reloaded properly.


20/240 Outlet split to 2 16/120 PDUs I have an L6-20R outlet that is rated at 20-amp 240volt. The circuit breaker is a 2-pole 20/120.

I have 2 16-amp 120v power distribution units with L5-20P ends.

Could I run an L6-20P to 2X L6-20R and then convert the L6-20R to L5-20p and safely run 1.5Kw off each split without any power issues?

L6-20 outlets do not carry a neutral, just two hots and ground and provides 240 volts only. As such, you cannot safely get 120 volts out of it without using a step-down transformer.

Using ground as neutral is not safe and is not allowed by the electrical code.

If you had a 240/120 volt outlet such as a 14-20, then you could safely make a splitter to two L5-20 using one hot and the neutral to each (as well as ground, of course).


What could happen if I use 2 cycle fuel in a 4 cycle engine? First off, this is NOT to be confused with the following question:

What could happen if I used 4 cycle fuel in a 2 cycle engine?

2 cycle oil is used for my weed eater. There is no way I could use a whole gallon in a year.

Sometimes I run out of gasoline for my 4 cycle lawn mower, and that 2 cycle mix fuel is sitting there getting really old.

If I run that in the lawn mower, am I simply going to create extra pollution or could the 2 cycle fuel cause any damage to the 4 cycle engine?

It will smoke badly and may indeed foul the plug(s). It will be less of a problem if you only use a SMALL amount of mix fuel in each tank, so the oil is more diluted.

IMHO, IME, if you use THAT little fuel in your weed whacker, you probably should sell it and buy an electric one, either corded or rechargeable.

If you don't want to do that, then you should invest in some good liquid measures that you will NOT use for anything else, and mix only a pint or quart of mixed fuel at one time - or purchase "canned pre-mix" fuel which typically comes in sealed metal quart cans - available in many places.

Edit WRT comments: I would personally choose an inexpensive graduated cylinder (or two) for the mixing - far less likely to be repurposed to food use by someone that does not know better than a tablespoon - also very easy to get a direct ratio in small quantity. But...2 Tbs in an ounce, 16 per cup, 32 per pint, 128 per half-gallon. So a pint of 32:1 mix is easy, but all my stuff is 50:1 mix. 256 tablespoons per gallon at 50:1 works back to one Tbs per 0.195 gallon (on a modern digital pump readout.) 40:1 is 0.156 and 32:1 is 0.125


Which tools to use for changing locks? I am new Home owner. I want to change locks and do it myself. I have never used a screwdriver set before and do not own one.

If anyone can recommend what tools I will need to change the locks.

Thank you.

Congratulations on becoming a home owner.  You will soon learn to use lots of tools if you plan to do any DIY projects around the house.
Most locksets only require a #2 Phillips screwdriver. You should not need any special or expensive tools. Just read the directions and follow them. Changing locks is very simple, usually just two screws that hold the inner and outer knobs together and two screws that hold the striker cylinder to the side of the door. You may also have to replace the striker plates on the door frame, but that is also easy and has only two screws.  All the screws should use the same phillips screwdriver.  Good luck.


How do I figure out what this 30amp 2 pole breaker is doing? I have am looking for space in my circuit breaker panel to do an upgrade. There is a 30 amp dual pole breaker labeled "water heater". Our water heater was upgraded to a tankless about 6 years ago and has a standard 3 prong power cord that plugs into the wall. Does that mean that the 30amp breakers are free now, or does my water heater use both the plug (maybe for the controls; that would seem odd but my old water heater didn't have digital controls). On the other hand, I don't remember the old water heater having any electrical components. The old water heater had a tank, and was installed some time before we moved in 15 years ago, though I don't recall the age.

Is there a way to figure out if that 30 amp circuit is being used? We turned it off and nothing seemed affected; the water heater still seemed to work. But maybe there is some internal component that is directly wired?

Yes, it seems quite probable that there was an electric water heater at some point, and if the last two were gas, that circuit is probably unused. Leave it off, and check for anything not working; and/or follow the wires if visible, or look for a junction box near the water heater location that has a cable going in and no wire coming out.


Cast iron pipe is too low to a use gasketed toilet flange replacement While removing the toilet the The previous flange came off with it. We suspect that is what was causing a leaking issue on the ceiling below. So we went to replace it with an extender flange but the 4 inch extender flange is not getting a tight seal on the cast iron pipe. What are my options?

It sounds like you can get at the pipe from below. I would highly suggest cutting some of the cast iron away and using a rubber gasket coupling (i.e. a Fernco) to transition to PVC. Then you can put a regular PVC pipe flange up there and avoid the problem of depth entirely.


If my home connected single phase 50 kw loads what will be the loads if I want to change the connection to a three phase? My home is connected with single phase (200/220v) line. Total connected load is 48 kw, now I want to connect my home with a 3 phase (400/440) line.

What will be the load in the latter case? Please provide a mathematical calculation to convert single phase load to a three phase.

Where is ThreePhaseEel when you need him?

I have to wonder what country this is that someone wants to change a 48KW load in their home from  200/220v single phase to 400/440 three phase.  Something's fishy...

I presume you mean to ask:  “What is the current for each leg of a 400/440v delta three phase supplying a 48KW load versus single phase at 200/220v?”

First the single phase:

48KW at 200/220v single phase (all values RMS):

P = V x I (electrical formula for power);

I = P / V (substitution);

I = 48000w / 220v (substitution);

I = 218 amps.

In the case of 200v:  I = 240 amps.
For a single phase 48KW load @ 200/220v,  the current is 240 / 218 amps , respectively.

For three phase:

In the simplified balanced load case, the current at each leg of the three phase supply is equal to the single phase calculation at that supply voltage divided by sqrt(3).  For a three phase 48KW load @400/440v, the current is 69.3 / 63.0 amps, respectively

Since Tester101 wants someone to prove it:

The problem can be simplified if the three phase load is analyzed as a wye instead of a delta.  In the case of a wye, the power calculation becomes simple addition and does not require vector math to solve.  For a wye, the total power is the sum of the three loads:

Ptot = P1y + P2y + P3y

I will call power at each leg p’, such that with a balanced load:

p’ = P1y = P2y = P3y= (1/3)Ptot

Using vector geometry, one can mathematically prove that the voltage across the wye connections to neutral (Vy) is equal to the voltage across the delta connections (Vd) divided by 1.732.  (Vy = Vd / 1.732) I will spare you that proof.

Using the equation for electrical power (P = V x I) and substitution:

p’ = (1/3)Ptot = Vy x I = (Vd / 1.732) x I,  where “I” is the current at each supply lead.

Invoking algebra:

I = (1/3) [Ptot]  /  [(Vd/1.732)];     (this simplifies to I = (Ptot / Vd) / 1.732 )

Plugging in the numbers:

I = (1/3)(48000W) / (400v/1.732) = 69.3 amps

I = (1/3)(48000W) / (440v/1.732) = 63.0 amps


What is the best way to rebuild this shower drain? Converting a tub to a shower, and with the drain location changing I'm just getting back to the underbelly and seeing the alignment of things before hooking it all back up.

You can see the new drain now sits into the room roughly 1.5-2in as compared to the max reach of the new p-trap. I put a piece of 2in into the drain to illustrate the shift. Side note, I do realize I will be transitioning from 2 to 1.5in, which is OK per code and flow rate of the shower head in my area.
I was hoping the extra pipe going to the p-trap was going to be the place to splice in, but now I'm not sure. Should I be rebuilding everything between the lines? Playing around with elbows to get it over to the new drain?
I'm comfortable working with ABS - just want to be sure it's the best approach.

You should cut the 2" main line (at the location shown in the first picture) and rebuild the assembly entirely, eliminating the combi (reducing tee) and any 1 1/2" components and orienting a new 2" sanitary tee to the correct angle to line up with a new 2" trap located directly under the shower drain. Why on earth would you reduce to 1 1/2" here when you could very easily make this all 2"?


Should I install a normal window or glass block? I'm struggling with a decision regarding replacing windows in our basement. We have glass block windows right now with a jalousie window in the center. The jalousie in the Chicago area is terrible and we want to get rid of it for something warmer.

I'm trying to figure out what the advantages/disadvantages for a glass block window is versus just a plain window. For example, the glass block seems to me that it would deter theft a little better. A normal window on the other hand looks nicer and will let in more light.

Can anyone identify any other trade-offs that I should know about before making a decision?

Cost is also another major factor. Where I'm at you'll spend much more for glass block vs a double pane window, either picture or hung or sliding. Ease of installation is another. It is much much easier to install a window than to properly install glass block. You will need to ensure that you flash the exterior of the window or the glass block properly. Also, making the glass block and the window look correct from the outside is also much easier when using a window.

If it were me, and the aesthetic of the house absolutely didn't call for a glass block window I'd go with a standard window.


Is using a 4 inch - 5/8 hinge where a 4 inch 1/4 hinge used to go... doable? I have a door with 3 hinges that are 4 inches - 1/4 inch radius on the corners. Finding a specific hinge with the same hole pattern seems to be impossible to find or extremely expensive.
Is there any issue with using a 4 inch 5/8 radius radius instead? Obviously it would fit. But the reverse would situation would not fit.
Why exactly are their 2 or 3 different sizes corner radius's? Is it a structural thing or simply esthetics?

Hinges all used to have square corners,  the rounded corners are to allow machines to cut the recess for the hinge more easily.  the corners are not structural.

If you are confident using a chisel replacing your rounded hinges with square ones may be another option.


Does it matter on which phase the solar panel inverter is connected? We have a three phase power supply (3x25A) at our home in The Netherlands (230V). All three phases are used for an induction cooker, and in parallel, two phases (let's call them 1 and 2) each power about half of the household.

We recently had solar panels installed (about 2.5kWp), and the inverter is tied to the third phase (i.e., not 1 or 2, so it is only directly connected to the induction range). Is this the right way to do it? On the one hand, it seems inefficient to draw most power from phase 1 and 2, and supply power to phase 3. On the other hand, the electrical noise from the inverter is all dumped into phase 3 so perhaps it actually isolates the electrical noise from the rest of the household.

Is there a 'right' way to choose which phase the solar panels are connected to? Or does this squarely fall in the it really doesn't matter category?

Being a grid-tied installation, it's quite possible that the power utility had some say in which phase to connect the PV system to.  In 3 phase systems, it's necessary to balance the load as equally as possible between the 3 phases but this is difficult to impossible to do within a single household.  So the utility designs the distribution network so that a group of homes share the load across the phases and over a large number, the phases are well balanced.

When connecting PV equipment to their system, generally the utility will provide specific instructions on interconnect based on the capacity and type of your system.  You may not have been aware of this as the installer was likely the one receiving the instruction, not you.

You might check with the installer as to the reasons why they hooked it up as they did.


What happens when using a GFCI Tester on a non-GFCI outlet? I have an outdoor power outlet of which I'm not sure if it's GFCI or not (House was built in 1978). The outlet does not have Test/Reset buttons, but I don't know if outdoor outlets even have them. There's no labeling for GFCI anywhere,.

So I'm looking to purchase a GFCI Tester. (Those little three-pronged things with 2 yellow/1 red LED and a button)

But I'm not sure what should/would happen if I press the GFCI Button and the outlet is not actually GFCI. Should it trip the breaker in the breaker box, or should it do nothing and the LEDs on the tester just stay on?

If the outlet, does not have test and reset buttons, it is clearly not a GFCI itself. However, it is possible that another outlet or circuit-breaker in the line before it has been wired to protect that outlet, as well. No harm will be done testing a non-GFCI outlet using the GFCI tester, but if it does trigger an interrupter elsewhere, you'll need to locate that to reset it.

That said, an outdoor outlet definitely should have GFCI protection, whether 'upstream' or intrinsic. If the GFCI tester does not trigger a protection device, a GFCI outlet should be installed ASAP!


Can you use PEX for venting? Is there such an option as using PEX for an 1-1/2 vent ? I have a stretch where I need some flexibility for my pipe which is going to be difficult to achieve with copper or ABS.
this is related to this question
What fittings can I use to re-route my copper DWV pipe?

Pex is only legal for supply plumbing. It's not rigid enough for drain or vent use, as the lack of internal pressure could result in it being constricted.


Should I hang drywall up to the ceiling (using steel studs)? If my studs are 3 meter high, will I have any problems if I hang drywall up to 2.4 meters, leaving 0.6 meter of stud showing? Or should the drywall cover all the studs?

PS: I'm using steel studs.

Drywall is part of the fire retardation system in many types of construction. The thickness is specifically designated to provide a certain timing before a fire can spread to an adjoining area.

Failing to have the drywall fully enclose the wall defeats this. It also compromises the insulation of the room, both with regard to temperature and sound. It may also increase the likelihood of air infiltration (drafts and temperature issues).

If this is just temporary (as @TheEvilGreebo queries), you may be fine so long as an inspection is not done and you will seal up the space soon.

If this is a permanent approach, you have a problem.