Can I branch off of 1/4" copper tubing to a standard hose connector? I would like to branch off of the tiny 1/4" copper tubing that supplies my refrigerator with water and connect the branch to a hose timer that will auto-water some plants that I have in the kitchen.

This is a picture of the 1/4" copper hose that goes into the fridge:

This is a picture of the timer I want to use to water the plants, it has a standard hose connector.

The refrigerator hose is closest to the part of the kitchen where I need the water. There is some more standard 1/2" copper pipe in other parts of the kitchen, but it would be much more difficult to pipe the water from those places.

Edit:::

Wanted to share what I ended up doing:

Found a 1/4"od compression "T" at Lowes. This allowed me to branch off from the refrigerator line. One thing that I was confused about was that the copper line used for refrigerators is 1/4" od. The "od" means "outer diameter" which is significantly smaller than a 1/4" inner diameter copper pipe.
Found a 1/4" od compression fitting to garden hose adapter at Lowes. I was surprised that they carry these. People use copper refrigerator line to make chillers a lot, so maybe that's why they carry them?

These two adapters pretty much did the trick.

You branch off from the copper tubing with a 1/4" compression tee. Cut out a small section of tubing for which the tee replaces. You must use a tubing cutter to do this, any other method will cause the tube to become oval.

Install the short piece removed on the side outlet of the tee. Attach a 1/4" compression x 1/2" pipe thread adapter to the short section. If you can find a tee with a pipe thread side outlet (preferred), skip the previous step.

Connect a 1/2" pipe thread to hose adapter. When buying parts, ensure the male and female parts mate correctly. If you can't find the proper mates, get a short nipple or coupler to change gender. Use several layers of teflon tape on male pipe threads, wrapped in the direction that causes it to get more snug when the pipe is screwed in.

Attach hose and controller. After all this, there probably isn't much pressure left, meaning you could probably transition from hose to 1/4" drip fittings for the run from controller to plants, keeping the installation less obtrusive. If you use pressure adaptive drip fittings, you can better regulate the flow to each plant, otherwise the first plant will get the most water, the last hardly any.

Be careful, though unlikely in this case, as high pressure can cause drip fittings to blow apart. You also can't use most pressure reducers, as they can spill water as they function. You'll probably have to go from hose to 1/2" drip main to 1/4" drip distrubution. The 1/2 to 1/4 punched connection can leak slightly, so it should be done over the first plant.


Can I run two cooktops on one circuit breaker? I am purchasing two induction cooktops that each require a 240-volt outlet with a 3600 watt maximum capacity.

Can I run both cooktops to the same circuit breaker by just pigtailing two outlets together?

If you live in the US and your area uses the National Electrical Code then you can run a single circuit and tap off of it to feed the two cooktops. To use this rule though you have to run a 50 amp circuit.
In your case it would be cheaper to run two sparate circuits of 15 amps. Unless the equipment is marked for a higher circuit size. Doing the math on your voltage and power requirements is not a substitute for the manufacturer's recommended circuit size.
According to the NEC:

210.19(3) Household Ranges and Cooking Appliances. Branch-circuit conductors supplying household ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and other household cooking appliances shall have an ampacity not less than the rating of the branch circuit and not less than the maximum load to be served. For ranges of 83⁄4 kW or more rating, the minimum branch-circuit rating shall be 40 amperes.
Exception No. 1: Conductors tapped from a 50-ampere branch circuit supplying electric ranges, wall-mounted electric ovens, and counter-mounted electric cooking units shall have an ampacity of not less than 20 amperes and shall be suffıcient for the load to be served. These tap con-ductors include any conductors that are a part of the leads supplied with the appliance that are smaller than the branch-circuit conductors. The taps shall not be longer than necessary for servicing the appliance.

Good luck!


How to replace thick set tile with wall? I am removing my thickset tiles in the kitchen of my 1950s home. I want to replace dated tiles with a smooth wall. Do I need to remove all the way through to the wire mesh or can I chisel off 1/2 of mortar (after removing the tile) and even it out with plaster? Thank you

All things considered you will probably find it much easier to simply remove the existing wall down to the studs.  Demolition is hard work but its fast work if you prepare the edges properly by cutting a seam along all the edges that goes the depth of the wall.  Then you just pull it all out and get rid of it.

After you're down to studs you can put up new, clean drywall.  Overall it's going to be faster than trying to "save" the old wall - which you won't really be likely to save anyway cause its nearly impossible to remove tile w/o destroying the wall underneath.  Tile from concrete sure, but tile from backerboard or plaster wall?  Forget it.  Demo the thing.


Breaker sending power to lights but 3 outlets wont work Our breaker flips often, and today the power shut our tv and window a/c off. I went to go flip the breaker but only the lights came on. I checked it again and again and still nothing. Only power to our lights. 3 out of 4 outlets in our living room are not working.

The circuit is overloaded, what you will probably find at the last working outlet or first non working outlet the back stabs have failed occasionally a broken wire or a wire nut but the failed backstab is quite common. Do AC units have to be on a dedicated circuit? It depends on the size of the AC and the circuit (15 or 20 amp). I would not put a TV on the same circuit as any electronic equipment because the compressor and blower motors create voltage spikes that can damage the tv , computers, audio equipment, I haven't had problems with lighting in the past but with LED's becoming more popular their driver circuitry can also be damaged I find drivers to be the failed component in most LED's I have repaired. Your issue came from overloading so it would be best to add a new branch circuit to power the AC unit.


Replacing Window Screens? Our window screens haven't been replaced in the better part of 2 decades, and I'm interested in replacing them. The previous screens have warped on some windows and it always seemed that really tiny insects like gnats could get past the screens even when they were new.

What am type of screens should I look for to protect against small insects like gnats?

My window dimensions L =83cm (32.6), H = 60cm (36.6)

Screen frames do sometimes warp, but should flatten out when held in place in the window.  If it remains warped when installed, make sure all of the securing clips are properly in place.  If that isn't the issue, replace the screen.
If you need to replace the entire screen, you might find ready-made screens if the window is a standard size that a local store sells.  Any store that sells windows can probably order screens for you.  If you know the window manufacturer, they may sell replacement screens, or can put you in touch with someone who does.  There are also online sources for custom-sized screens (just Google "custom window screens").  Don't assume that "custom" means costly; virtually all screens are "custom" sizes.
Otherwise, you make a new screen frame the size you need and then put the screen fabric into it.  The screen framing is like making a custom-sized picture frame.  You cut the four sides to size and use supplied connectors to assemble the frame.  You can copy the dimensions from the old frame.

You can find the channel to make the frame at most hardware stores.  It is typically aluminum, so you can cut it with hand tools if you don't have a miter saw (some use square ends, so you don't need to cut angles).

There are some common ways to secure the screen in the window, and you can usually find equivalent hardware at the store.
The picture looks like very coarse screening.  If tiny insects are getting through, replace it with fine mesh screening.
If the screen frame is still good, you can normally replace the screen fabric.  It is sold in rolls at most hardware stores.  You cut it to size with scissors.  It's held in place by friction with a rubbery cord (spline) that presses the fabric against the channel.

If the original spline is still in good shape, you can reuse it.  Otherwise, you can get new spline at the store in the same place you find the screen fabric.  There's an inexpensive screening tool that you use to install it.  It's a rolling tool that looks like a miniature pizza cutter (but the blade is grooved), that pushes the fabric into the channel and then pushes the spline in to secure it.

This is a common DIY project, and replacement supplies designed for DIYers are readily available.  You can find instructional videos online.  A quick search found this.  Bring an old screen to the store so the staff can see exactly what style you need to replace, and ask them any specific questions you may have on which items to select and how to do it.


What is causing my Craftsman push mower to run erratically and quit after a few minutes? I purchased a craftsman push mower 2 years ago. It's be stored inside and been used on our personal lawn for 2 summers.

A week ago it ran wonderfully, then it started running poorly. Eventually getting to where I couldn't even cut the grass. I'm not mechanic by any means, but have tried the following:

Cleaned air filter
Dumped out old gas and replaced with new.
Took the Carburetor apart and clean the entire thing.Sprayed parts with brake cleaner, as that's what i had as opposed to Carb cleaner.
removed spark plug and screwed back in.

It starts every time on the first pull, however it just runs weak and chugs a long. I noticed that when I tip it back - meaning front wheels in the air, it runs significantly better. When I put the mower deck back level, it sputters along. The oil level appears to be low if anything. Not significantly, just lower than suggested.

any help would be appreciated.

How far apart did you disassemble the carb? Did you clean the metering valve assembly? these are usually super tiny that you need a single strand of stranded wire to get in there and clear the ball bearing or check valve parts.

If you provide the model # I'll try to find the engine diagram and point it out.

You also want to check the float and make sure it is seated correctly and no liquid inside of it.


Ecobee Smart Thermostat- Using Room Sensor as primary control This is ultimately a fairly simple question about the Ecobee3 thermostat and the wireless room sensor functionality, but I'll explain my situation first.

Twin home, 2 stories + finished below grade basement.

I'm looking at an Ecobee to replace our first floor thermostat.   Our HVAC is a forced air attic unit, so the 2nd floor is much warmer than the first floor and basement when the heat is on. (Cooling does fine since the cold air wants to move down naturally)  The basement has a gas fireplace (it operates on it's own thermostat-I'm NOT looking for Ecobee to control that) which when on heats the basement very well and even raises the 1st floor temperature decently.  Rather than spend the money on a true zoned HVAC system at the moment I'd like to try using the central heat to cover the 2nd floor and set the basement fireplace to a comfortable temperature and allow it to cycle on/off throughout the day, and also set the ecobee to run the fan occasionally to help pull the heated air from the basement to the first floor.

From reading it sounds like the Ecobee room sensors would allow me to turn the HVAC system control over to JUST a room sensor, rather than working alongside the main thermostat unit to average out the house.   So I would put the room sensor in an upstairs hallway and set the entire system based on what temperature I want up there. (the other ducts throughout the house will of course still get air when the unit runs to heat the 2nd floor, which is perfectly fine)

to my question---So in this Room-Sensor-only setup, what number does the main thermostat (1st floor) actually display?   The temperature of where the room sensor is located (2nd floor), or the actual temperature of the 1st floor?

I ask because I would prefer it to show the actual first floor temperature so I can gauge how well the fireplace is heating the rest of the house and determine if my fake zoning is working, and not becoming a horrible gas wasting mistake...

I have two of these thermostats installed.  When you set a programed time for the thermostat, you can also select which sensor is active during that time.  For instance, I have a sensor in the bedrooms and one in the main living area and then the thermostat itself.  The thermostat is in an odd location and I don't like the temperature it ends up reading.  So, for our "daytime" program, I have only the main living area sensor active.  The system doesn't care about the other two temperatures and just turns on and off to make sure that one sensor is happy.

For the "sleep" part of the schedule, I have the two bedroom sensors active, so the temp of the main living area doesn't matter.  I had a problem with one bedroom getting warmer than the other, but adjusting the dampers on the vents in the room corrected that so the rooms warm and cool at about the same rate.

There is also a setting to ensure the fan comes on for a minimum amount of time per hour.  This can be set so the air circulates even if the active sensors are at the "correct" temperature.


What wire do I need to power 10m of SK9822 LED strip I have 10 meters of SK9822 LEDs (60 LED/m) which I want to lead around my room. Because there's some furniture in the way, I'll need to cut this in a few pieces and create segments joint with a piece of wire.

These LEDs are 5V and draw the maximum of 60mA each. I know the maximum amount of power these LEDs will need is 36A (60 * 60 * 10) so I bought a transformer that provides 5V, 40A of power.

I read that powering the whole 10 meter strip only from one end wouldn't work, so I'll put the power source somewhere in the middle with branch A: 400cm of LEDs (plus 20cm of joints) on one side and branch B: 600cm of LEDs (plus about 270cm of joints) on the other side. Now B is probably still a bit too long for powering from one end, so my idea is to supply power to the distant end of it by leading wire from the source, along the LEDs and thus powering the long side from both ends. This would all go from the same supply (40A transformer).

I'm quite new to this but doing as much as I can to catch up with all the electrician knowledge. A couple of things I'm not sure about though:

Will the current get naturally distributed wherever is needed? Especially when connecting the strip on both ends, will it draw roughly a half of the total required current on each side?
Do I need a special wire for the joints and for the power extension?
Some wires have maximum current rating on them (like 3 or 6A), so if the answer to the first question is yes and my calculation is correct (6m of LEDs will draw the maximum of 18A), will I need a wire that can handle 9A of current for the power extention (and possibly for the joints as well)?
Also, what about the wire from the power source to the middle of the strip, should I use separate wires to send power to each branch?

Look closely at the PCB traces on the LED strips and ask yourself "can I realistically expect this to carry 36A?"

Mind you, Electrical Code says a 36A load is too big even for 10AWG wire.   Go to a home improvement store and handle some 10AWG wire for yourself.  See what I mean? It's pretty big stuff.

Much worse, even though your distance isn't far, voltage drop is rather ouchey when you're starting with only 12V. So run your numbers through a voltage drop calculator just to make sure you're not dropping too much.

Feeder everywhere

Look at any trolley-bus system in Dayton, San Francisco, Philly, Vancouver, Toronto, Boston, or any former Eastern Bloc country.  You can do it on Google Earth, Hayes St. in San Francisco is a good example.    They have two #2/0 trolley wires feeding the bus.  But up on the electric poles is also a pair of Very Fat Wires, and every 3-4 poles a fat jumper wire from a trolley wire to one of the fat wires.  They are almost 2" diameter and solid aluminum.  They are feeder.  The 2/0 trolley wires simply can't carry enough current to supply a whole line full of trolley buses, so the feeder takes most of the line's current. Any bus is supplied via the trolley wire from both directions down to the nearest jumper to the feeder.

So you do the same thing.  You won't have more than 30A in either direction, so 10AWG feeder will probably suffice.  You run positive and negative (traditional colors red and black) parallel to the strips the entire length.  And you tie it to the LED strips proper everywhere you possibly can, such as all those breaks that you need anyway.

You could even feed each strip from both ends if you want to, in which case the feeder is paralleled to the internal bus in the strips.  That is fine, like the trolleybus, because it is DC.  Do not parallel AC wires.


Electricity passes through a bulb holder, even when the switch is off In my home, electricity passes through a bulb holder even when the switch is off. I heard that happens due to 3-way switches. Could anybody tell me if it is okay or worth worrying?

Update

Let me explain it in detailed:

I use that holder for LED bulb which glows (no issue with plastic frame of the holder) even when the switch is off so I ran the following tests by taking out the bulb.

1) Normal Line Tester - When I test with line tester, one of the two pins, i.e., line pin indicates that the electricity passes through it slightly when switched off.

2) Digital Teser - Digital tester indicates as following:

Line test - 12v 36v 55v 110v
Inductance break point test - 12v 36v

Here is the screenshot of the switch:

One of them located at the beginning of staircase (in the main hall) and another at the end of the staircase on the first floor's hall. It's a duplex building.

Look closely at that light switch.  See the two switch blocks (one blank) and the almost-square translucent fringe around both of them?  That lights up.  That is a backlight designed to help you find it in the dark.  You may have known this and forgot to mention it, or maybe it doesn't work for a particular reason.  Here is how those switches are wired internally.

As you can see, power flows through this circuit at all times.  If it's not going through the switch, it's going through the backlight.  Incandescent bulbs are quite low resistance when they are not burning (their resistance increases greatly as they heat up).  These backlights exploit that by leaking a tiny amount of current through the incandescent bulb, too little to make it glow, but enough to light the backlight.

Well, LED bulbs monkeywrench this arrangement. They aren't low resistance when off.  If current will go through the LED bulb with the backlight impeding flow, it may make the LED bulb function.  It might even make the LED bulb work, and the backlight not.  And that kind of thing is what you're running into.

Solution:

Go back to incandescent bulbs.  If it's a multi-bulb lamp, only one needs to be incandescent.
Go to a plain switch with no backlight.
Get a more modern switch that works the new way (not depending on leakage current, but requiring a neutral to the switch).


Is biofuel safe for this indoor fireplace with an open flame? Having purchased a home without a fireplace, I've been searching for non-vented alternatives, like electric heating units that emulate the look of a wood stove.

I came across this interesting looking bioethanol firebox.

It is meant for indoor or outdoor use. The flame is out in the open. I don't know how it can be safe to use indoors -- wouldn't it create smoke and wouldn't a large open flame pose a significant safety risk?

I asked the creator by commenting on his YouTube commerical. He said it's safe because it's bioethanol.

I don't understand this answer. This is a real flame, right? Couldn't it easily catch the Christmas tree in the commericial on fire? Does bioethanol not produce any smoke, therefore requiring no vent/chimney?

Although some bio fuels produce much less carbon monoxide they still produce some. I would not use it without some kind of venting until there is a UL listing stating it is safe for indoor use and only use the specific blend of fuel listed.


How to bolt something to a wood member when can't access the back side and a carriage bolt won't do I need to bolt a solar inverter to a stud wall for three reasons.

it needs to be a few inches offset from the studs, so the bolt holes in the inverter won't line up with the studs,
I'd feel better if the load were carried by 4 lag bolts (instead of 2), and
the inverter needs to sit out 1-2" from the studs, to clear the siding - I intend to lag a short piece of 2x6 or 2x8 to the studs (first removing a couple of siding boards), and then bolt the inverter to the board.

The unit weighs 50 pounds (23 kilograms.)

The problem is, how can I bolt the inverter to the board? I won't be able to reach the back side of the board once it's attached to the studs.  Carriage bolts could work, by installing the into the board before I attach it to the studs; but I'm not satisfied with the amount of bearing surface the head of the carriage bolt would supply.  A hex bolt, with washers under the head (on the back side) and under the nut (on the front side), would work. But how can I keep the bolt from rotating as I tighten the nut on the front side?

You could install a few of these three prong tee nuts on the back of your board before it's attached to your studs and then bolt the inverter from the front. I'm curious why you'd "feel better" with two bolts instead of four.


Exhaust fan in lighting circuit There is an exhaust fan in the lighting circuit, Is it acceptable as per NEC to accommodate Exhaust fan and lighting load in same circuit

Since there are plenty of combination kitchen exhaust fan + light and bath exhaust fan + light (and even bath exhaust fan + light + heat) devices, this is clearly OK.

In general, residential exhaust fans require very little power and combining with lights should not be a problem.


How do I rip vinyl plank flooring? I'm installing CoreTec One vinyl plank flooring and I've had trouble finding directions on how to rip it to width.  Most of the "vinyl plank" installation guides I've found are for thinner, more flexible product which can be scored and snapped.  I've seen suggestions that one can use a circular saw but I can imagine the vinyl might gum up my table saw.  If not, that seems dead simple.

In your position, I'd try a fine toothed blade in a table saw for cutting the vinyl planks. As long as the material keeps moving past the blade, I wouldn't expect a problematic amount of melting/gumming.


Drain down heating system I'm currently draining my heating system (radiator valve sprung a leak), however I have left it for a ages (1 hour) and it is still going, when I turn the bleed valve on an upstairs radiator air does not suck in but water sprays out.

I've got a cold water tank in the loft, a hot water cylinder upstairs and boiler downstairs, and am draining from a downstairs radiator, I live in a 3 bedroom detached house with 7 radiators.. I've turned off two valves next to the hot water cylinder, 1 feeds from the loft into the bottom of the cylinder, another feeds from the loft into the heating pump, I've also tied up the gall valve in the tank upstairs.

Is this purely a waiting game, or is there still water being fed into my system from somewhere else?

My mistake, turns out that the heating had another smaller tank in the loft hidden behind the big tank and was filling up to compensate.


Is an ethernet cable threaded inside a metal conduit is more protected from electromagnetic interference? I am at the end of a renovation, and only now  I discovered that it is not recommended to run ethernet cable in parallel and closely to power cables, even if they are in separate conduits, but I may have the option to improve the safety and the data integrity:
As you can see in the photo there are 3 pvc conduits runs parallel to each other. Each with a diameter of 16mm. In one is threaded a telephone cable, in the other a cat 7 ethernet cable and in the third a 240V power cable.( I dnot know in what order)
On the left side there is an additional 50mm in diameter flexible PVC conduit also parallel and closely to the three conduits, but it is empty.I estimate that there is  2-3 cm between the cables. (not between the conduits)
I have the option to cancel the cat7 that is threaded inside the 16mm conduit, and thread a new cat7 cable inside a flexible metal conduit (that protects low voltage cables from electromagnetic) and thread the metal conduit into the flexible 50mm PVC conduit (conduit within a conduit)
Is it worth making this change?
(I am thinking of a future option that maybe I will increase the network speed, and even if there is a lot of amperage in the power cable which increases the strength of the magnetic field)
And another question: can there be an interference to the telephone cable as well because it is run parallel near to the power conduit?
It is not shielded and not a twisted pairs, but I can replace it with a more high quality cable, and also transfer it in the 50mm conduit.
Thanks in advance for any answers

You discovered wrong. Ethernet runs at 100MHz and up, your line voltage at 60Hz is virtually DC at that frequently difference.
With that said, you should still run your data cables in conduit. Not for interference concerns, but so that in 2040 you can easily replace the cat5 with something new for our 20K ultra VR direct brain video or whatever is the deal then. Plastic Smurf tube is fine, it doesn't need to be metal.


Is it feasible for one person to level a 12ft wide concrete foundation slab on their own? I need to build a concrete foundation measuring about 4.9m x 3.7m (16ft x 12ft). I'll make the formwork and then get a company to lay the concrete for me. The concrete will be deep enough not to require to be laid into bays.

I won't have a helper. Is it feasible to level such a large area of concrete on my own, either by standing in it and moving a screed board as I walk backwards or by standing to the side and bull floating it?

If you don't simply have the concrete company screed it for you (a good idea), hire a helper for an hour or two so you can screed sensibly from outside the forms. The difference between you walking down the middle of the slab and trying to fill your footsteps and them doing that is that they have some experience with filling footsteps when they HAVE to walk in it. But they'll almost certainly have two people screed it from outside the forms, and you should, too. Walking through it is not the preferred method.

As an aside, steel is cheap and easy before you pour, but essentially impossible to retrofit. Many home pours seem to skip reinforcement at all, which is penny wise and pound foolish. At least throw some 6x6 mesh in there, and bent #4 bars at the corners, tied to the mesh.


Is there a name for right angle braces / brackets that have enlarged holes for adjustments? I like building furniture, and at times need to use right angle brackets. The problem is that when I'm screwing them in, right at the end they'll shift the tiniest bit which throws off everything. Infuriating when I've spent hours cutting and sanding everything right.

I was digging around my unused hardware drawer and came across this:

It is 1" x 1/2", which design-wise would be perfect, though need a bunch in different sizes. Is there a name for this type of brace or bracket?

It's called an angle shrinkage. Or at least, the particular type which allows expansion in two directions is.

Products may also be called angle stretcher plates.


Installing cabinet on thick sound/thermoproofing layer and concrete I need to mount IKEA Metod wall cabinets on a sound/thermoproofing layer that is itself glued on reinforced concrete walls. These cabinets are installed on a rail
The layer consists of 1cm of plaster and 6cm of high density fiber glass wool, the specs are here in French (should be the 10+60 variant). Unfortunately it does not seem to indicate the plaster wall maximum load as far as I can see (probably because you are not supposed to mount stuff on it!)
Behind it are 20cm of reinforced concrete.
I did not expect that that layer would be that thick and am having now doubts on how to best proceed. The person from the construction company recommended to use cavity dowels, but I am doubtful.
The specs of the cavity dowels I have indicate 20kg of load bearing capacity. A 60cm wide wall mounted cabinet weights about 20kg, and maybe 50kg fully loaded. It seems that I would need to put in quite a few screws to make this work (especially assuming some safety margin), and I suspect this will compromise the structure of the plaster wall.
The other option is to drill into the concrete, but given the lever forces in play here the required screw size would be quite big.
What do you recommend?

Whether you like it or not, you're going to need to mount those rails into the concrete if you want the cabinet to stay on the wall. There's not much structural integrity or load bearing capacity in 1cm of plaster.
There are a variety of ways of attaching things to a concrete wall, from screws (like Tapcon™ that are specifically designed to hold in concrete), to expanding anchors.
You indicate you'd had "cavity dowels" recommended to you. I'm not familiar with that term, but if they're something designed for the purpose, they should do just fine. If you expect your load to be 20Kg cabinet + 50Kg of "stuff", then you're only looking at 4 of these "cavity dowels" which doesn't seem terribly excessive to me.
You'll need to go to your local hardware store of choice, take a look at the options there and pick anchors that meet your expected load rating. It's possible that you'll find "cavity dowels" that are rated higher than 20Kg per fastener, so you may not need to use as many. You'll also need to select a masonry drill bit of the appropriate size for the anchors you'll be installing. Once you have those, drill the holes and insert the anchors according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Odds are good that you'll really only need 2 anchors (of whatever type) to hold your 50-70Kg load. Anchors are designed to hold a lot of weight. It's quite possible that you'll find anchors that are rated at 50Kg each which means that 2 of them (to hold the rail level) will be more than enough to support your expected weight. Again, though, you'll need to look at the packaging of the anchors you're choosing to determine which ones are appropriate.

There's another possibility (but it's probably not something you're after or you wouldn't have chosen a wall-mount cabinet). Come up with some sort of leg affair to support the majority of the cabinet's weight from below, then your anchors into the wall are simply there to keep it from tipping over.


Proper sump pit water level? I am concerned that my sump pump no longer turns on when the water reaches the appropriate level. As you can see from the picture the water level is about 3/4 the way up the inlet pipes. Which is high enough so that water doesn't really run in. Shouldn't the water level be below the inlet pipes? I bought the house last year so I am not really sure about the age of the pump. I can manually run the pump, but that doesn't really do much good if I were to get a lot of rain I would have to babysit it. Can I troubleshoot the automatic turn on by dumping water into the pit with a bucket?

The water should not be that high in the sump. It should be down to around the 2-3" level inside. This is what I'd call a safety margin which allows the pump time to rest should there be any sudden surge of water coming in from the drain tile or where ever else it might come in from (only other place I can think of off the top of my head would be the A/C drain, but you wouldn't get a surge from there). If a pump has to pump continually without resting, it will burn up the motor faster due to heat build up.

There are two things to test. First, find the float switch which should turn your pump on when the water gets deep enough (it should be a ball floating in the water somewhere, maybe under the drain pipes). Rattle it around and see if it will turn the sump on. If it was stuck under the pipe, it may just need to be dislodged. If you rattle it around and the pump does not kick in, it could just be bad float switch, which you can get a replacement for if the main power cord runs through the check ball cord (hard to explain, but there would be a plug within a plug as it plugs into the wall).

The second thing to check is if the pump itself is good (if the check ball does not turn it on). If there is the plug-in-a-plug situation as I described above, pull the two plugs out of the wall socket, pull them apart, then put the pump one (should look like a regular plug) back into the wall and see if the pump turns on. If it does, you can get a replacement float switch and you should be golden for the mean time. If it doesn't, you'll need to replace the pump.

Unless there is a longer manufacturer's warranty on a pump, you should replace them every two years anyway. I would bet this one has not been changed for quite some time. It gives a little piece of mind in doing so. As well, if you do not keep the maintenance up on your pump and the a flood ensues where the pump could have handled the difference, the insurance company might not pay for cleanup and repairs, so this maintenance item is a must in my house.


Wiring Transition from Inside of wall to Outside of Wall for hard-wired appliance I am installing an electric kickspace/toe kick heater as part of my kitchen remodel.  I do not quite understand how to transition the supply wiring from inside the wall to the space underneath of the cabinet where the heater will located.

It seems if I used a junction box that is secured inside of the wall (like all standard receptacle/switch installations), there would not be a way to get the wire into the living space (requirement for the junction box to be closed up with a faceplate).

If I mount a junction box outside of the wall, so I can use the side entrances/exits for the wires in the living space, then the supply wire would just exit the wall unprotected for a small distance - I don't think that is code compliant (please correct me if I am wrong).

Any advice would be helpful.  NEC 2014 applies in my area and the work will be inspected.

It seems like the space under the cabinets is inaccessible and would be treated like the interior of a wall.

In that case, you could merely cut a hole in the wall at the back bottom of the cabinet that will hold the heater and continue your cabling into the opening that will hold the heater.

Once the cable is attached to the heater and the heater is pushed into the opening, the cable is protected.

Access to connections by removing a fixture is generally considered code compliant.


Box to handle electrical wiring coming out of drywall? My breaker box is installed flush with the drywall, however I need to run some 6/3 romex out of it to a charging box for a Tesla.
My thought was to come out the bottom of the breaker box, then a few inches down, come out of the drywall and run the wiring from there to my charging box.
Is there any sort of box to make the wiring coming out of the drywall not look like...a wire coming out of the drywall?

As was mentioned in comments, you can't use Romex or other-brand NM cable stapled to the wall surface. Since conduit is required for protection you can save yourself some trouble (wrestling and conduit up-sizing) by using THHN or similar conductors instead.
An "old work box" can be installed in a finished wall. Cut a hole just the right size in the drywall and slide the box in. The old work box provides the path from in the wall to the face of the wall. Old work boxes are available in plastic, but because conduit and THHN are recommended here anyway, I'm showing a metal old work box. You can connect this up to the circuit breaker panel with a pre-threaded rigid conduit nipple or with a segment of conduit and appropriate connectors.

So, with the old work box providing the pathway to the wall face, next you need to transition into conduit on the wall surface. An easy way to do that is to stack an extension box on the front of the old work box. Conduit exits one of the side walls of the extension box and a blank face plate goes on front.


Is my water pressure reducing valve faulty? I have a water pressure reducing valve at the main water supply to my house.  When I put a pressure gauge on the water heater with no faucets running, I read 130 psi.  When I turn on the bathroom faucet, the pressure reading drops to between 20 and 130 psi, depending on how the reducer valve screw is adjusted.  However no matter what the setting, the pressure reading always climbs back to 130 psi within a minute after all water flow is turned off.

Is my PRV working correctly?  Should the static pressure with nothing running be adjustable by the PRV, or is it only for limiting the pressure while water flow is active?

Yes, that sounds defective.

A pressure regulator (which is what a PRV is) should stop flow when the pressure exceeds the setting. This sounds like you may have a small leak, which could be from debris trapped in the valve, a scratched valve seat or something like that.

Before spending money on it, determine if the PRV is your responsibility or the water company's responsibility. If it's theirs, they may just come swap it out for you.

Your described behavior (particularly the speed of it) would seem to be a leaky PRV. A slightly different case arises when there is a PRV (which also acts like a one-way or check valve) and a hot water heater, with no expansion tank - then the water pressure can rise when cold water is heated and no valves are open.


What should I do about a small fly infestation in my kitchen? So, a few weeks ago, I had a medical emergency that got me "locked up" in a hospital for a few weeks. Today, I came home, and they were dozens and dozens of little flies in my kitchen. The thing  is, flies scares me. (For some, it's snakes, for other it's spiders, for me it's flies.)

I can't even open the kitchen door without almost passing out, and I'm afraid that since Spring is around the corner, the invasion will go absolutely uncontrollable. I have no idea what to do.

Does anyone have ideas/tips to help me get rid of those?

Thanks in advance!

First get rid of any garbage and produce that is probably the cause of the fruit flies. To get rid of the ones currently there you could buy some traps from a store or try making a homemade one


What kind of paint should be used on old plaster and lathe walls? Are the steps to painting a plaster and lathe walls, house is early 1900's, the same as any other type of wall? What type of primer should be used? What type of paint? On the internet I read about the walls need to breathe and latex may prevent  'breathing' and moisture will build up.

On a home this old there will be layers of oil based paint and possibly additional layers of Latex paint. The biggest concern is good prep work (cleaning removing loose material) and a Quality paint. I have used both oil and latex on Victorian era homes with excellent results. It is really an opinion question today.


What might be causing our cistern to fill very slowly? We have a toilet cistern with a concentric float valve fill mecanism. Earlier this week, it suddenly started to take much longer to fill after flushing (ca. 15 minutes instead of less than 1 minute previously). Simultaneously, the sound produced by the filling became a much more noticeable hissing sound.

Inspecting it wasn't much help, as I'd not really looked at it before it went wrong. I did notice that the hissing sound is caused by water emerging from the top of the fill pip at pressure. That, combined with normal operation of other water outlets, leads me to believe that the problem is isolated to the cistern.

What might have gone wrong? Is there a simple fix? Or will I have to call a plumber?

Some dirt or sediment is probably in the valve within the toilet itself. Here's a video of the repair on two types of valves. The important part is to get the valve opened up, clean off the washers, run a little water through the system, and reassemble.


Why is there cracked paint on my new plaster? I've just finished a renovation of my house. In the new half of the house, we have had problems with the paint on our cornices cracking. The cornices were brand new when installed, this was done months before painting and they seemed in good condition. Our first painter painted them at the same time as the ceiling - the cornice paint is now cracking but the ceiling paint is fine. The numerous cracks are fine and short (perhaps 3~5mm long). The only room upstairs that the paint is not cracking on is in the bathroom which was painted with mould resistant paint.

We had the same corninces installed downstairs and had a different painter paint them - they have had no problems.

Do you have any idea what may have gone wrong? Our painter swears he did everything perfectly.

Do you have any idea how to fix this? They are decrative corninces so sanding back is not really an option.

Needless to say, we've been having fights with our painter over this.

The original cornices are 90 years old and they are fine as well.

The cracking would imply a drying problem. I would think that the cornice was primed improperly. If the primer was of cheap quality or the painter used a paint with a built in primer for drywall. The primer may have not effectively sealed the plaster. Then the drying of the paint would be effected, basically the plaster sucking out the moisture to quickly. this could cause the paint shrink and crack as it dried.

Answer to comment.

You have to fill the cracks. either by sanding them out or filling them. If sanding isn't an option try coating an area with a light coat of mud and after it drys lightly wipe it smooth with a damp cloth. Then repaint starting with a good sealer, kiltz would probably do.

A type of self leveling paint might work without all the mud filling, but It depends on the size of the cracks. I would sample a couple areas to see what works best.

There are paints that claim to have this ability. I would still start with a good primer/sealer before anything.

Cashmere

This is not an endorsement of the paint only an example of what to look for. I have never used it.


How to insulate from the noise generated by rain falling on a roof window? My sleeping room is just below the roof, and has two roof windows. When it rains during the night (rather common experience during winter in central Italy, where I am located), the rain falling on the window glass generates a rather strong noise, which prevents me from getting asleep and often also wakes me up if I am already sleeping.
What are good sound-proofing techniques in this case? For example, would putting some layers of foam (which foam in particular?) just below the window work? Is the sound-proofing foam used in recoding studio the appropriate material here?
I've also thought about putting a layer of (not necessarily sound-proofing) foam on the window instead of below it, in the hope that the rain doesn't fall directly on the glass, so it makes less noise. It is clearly is a maintenance burden (the foam gets soaked, and it probably quickly breaks because of exposure to sun and wind), but maybe it works better. Are there suggestions about this idea?
Some remarks about my specific situation:

The area is quiet, so the only noise I need to insulate from is the rain tapping on the roof window. Nothing else.

I am renting the house, therefore I would like to minimise the modifications on the house. However, not being able to sleep is a serious problem and the landlord is a reasonable person, so if there is need I can try to negotiate some long-lasting change.

If this is like most skylights (roof windows) there is a space below the window where you could stuff something to deaden the sound - acoustical insulation.
If you cut a piece of styrofoam insulation just slightly wider than the opening, you can press it in and it will stay on its own.  You can cover the exposed side with something so it looks OK.
You could cut a piece of plastic bubble wrap the size of the glass pane and attach it to the outside of the glass with silicone sealant.  This would not be too hard to remove, and would let most of the light through.   I doubt it will last long in the sunlight but maybe you'd only need a fresh piece once a year.


Light fixture goes out just before flush to ceiling BV022061
10:07AM | 04/05/20

I changed out an old light fixture. It had 3 blacks, 3 whites and 1 red. Hooked up the lines but the light switch would not work. Found out red wire is the switch so connected black to red. Switch and light working now. Problem is when I mount the fixture to the bracket the tighter I make screws just before it is flush with the ceiling the light goes out and circuit trips. There is foil on the backside of the light. Could that be shorting it out when it meets the bracket?

thanks,
Robert Vega

For folks reading this in the future: I have also found that, with 3 or more wires, sometimes the wire-nut does not screw on all the way, leaving some of the bare wire exposed. May not always be easy to see. Then, when tightening the cover, it shorts out.  $0.02


How should I connect my humidifier to HUM terminals? Had my system replaced last summer. When they hooked up the humidifier, they just went to the transformer output for power. Now anytime humidity is below the set point, the water runs even if the system is off. Doing some research I found out this unit has HUM terminals. How do I connect my humidifier to the s9v2 HUM terminals? I put a multi-meter across the terminals to see if its 120v or 24v but just get 0v. This was measured during a call for heat and with no call. Am I measuring correctly? Or is it from one terminal to somewhere else?

Model number S9V2B060U3PSAAA

Thanks, Scot

The HUM terminal on most furnaces is a 120VAC terminal. If you want to use the HUM terminal to control the humidifier, you're going to have to use a step down transformer, to drop that down to 24VAC.

To measure the voltage on the HUM terminal:

Set your volt meter to measure AC volts.
Place one probe on one HUM terminal.
Place the other probe on the other HUM terminal.

When the furnace is running in heat mode, you should measure ~120 volts about 1 second after the blower motor starts.

  "HUM relay closes on any heating call (HP/Gas)
  approximately 1 second after the blower motor
  starts"

- From manufacturer's literature

According to the manufacturer, the HUM terminal is rated for 1 ampere at 120 volts.

You may be able to simply connect the wire from the humidifier to the W terminal in the furnace, instead of directly to the transformer.  That way, the humidifier will only get power when the thermostat is calling for heat. However, without knowing more details about your system, it's impossible to say for sure if that will work.  Please provide the make and model of the humidifier, and a wiring diagram/photos, if you want a more accurate answer.


Receptacle size for Stand up freezer I have a stand up freezer with 21 start up amps and 2 running amps.  Would a 20 amp breaker be sufficient?

We don’t go by start up amps we go by what is called FLA full load amperage the 21 amps is locked rotor current, when motors start they draw 3-5 times the normal running value, that’s ok because it is usually less than 1 second so no heat has time to build up.
If the unit came with a plug that is the normal 2 parallel and a ground or the standard 15 amp 120v plug you can use a 15 amp circuit. If it is 1 blade rotated 90 degrees 120v it is a 20 amp plug and needs a 20 amp circuit.
Code has exceptions for motor circuits that require higher starting currents than normal the limit is 225%  NEC 440.22.
So there are exceptions and we work with the information on the nameplate. It will usually recommend a circuit size of 15 amps with a maximum of 10 amps.
Who wait you said the starting current was 21 amps! Well the circuit breaker is an inverse time device the higher the current the faster it trips. A 15 amp circuit will normally hold at 50 amps for a half second (you only need 21). So the amperage peak is very short and your current is already on its way back to FLA or 2 amps.
Putting a plug in device like this on a 30 amp circuit would be a code violation. And I would bet it will be fine on a 15 amp circuit.


Dishwasher + Instant Hot Installation I have a dishwasher and garbage disposal plugged into a 2-outlet wall receptacle under the sink.  The GD is set up to a switch on the counter.  Checking the fuse box, these both appear to be 20A.  Kitchen was remodeled about 10 years ago.

I'm planning to install an Insinkerator Instant Hot water dispenser which draws 6.5A.  With the DW drawing ~12A, seems like a simple issue to get an outlet adapter to allow for plugging in both the DW and instant hot.  Max draw would be 18.5A.  However, I can only find outlet adapters rated to 15A.

Question:  Is it okay to have the DW (~12A) and IH (6.5A) plugged into an adapter rated 15A into an outlet rated 20A?  Do I need to unplug the instant hot every time I run the dishwasher?

Thanks in advance for your input.

The best solution is to actually change the single gang box to a double gang box and install a second unswitched duplex outlet.  This is not actually difficult for an experienced electrician, the DIY skill level is moderate.  The total draw is only near max, if both dishwasher is on dry and hot water gets used, but insta-hots actually only run for a very short cycle if used.  It shouldn’t trip if there’s nothing else on the circuit.

That said, I used this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-6-Outlet-Grounded-In-Wall-Adapter-White-54947/203742151 or equivalent... specifically a model tho with a center screw, that’s critical for this application.  If it’s the typical garbage disposal/dishwasher under sink plug that is a half switched duplex outlet, then the other two plugs on the switched row of the adapter are pretty useless.  Regarding 15 vs 20 amp ratings, I think you won’t find 20 because it’s a NEMA 5-15 pin configuration.

(Footnote: I plan to change this when we remodel the kitchen and the cabinets are out to the 2-gang 2 duplex outlets described at the beginning, due to the location of the stud and the side they chose to nail the original to—mine was not the simple case of make a 1 gang into a 2 gang, mine actually has to change to the other side of the stud as well, I opted to use the adapter and have not had any problem.)


Is it possible that two apartments' electricity could be unknowingly linked? How to lower unknown electrical increases? I live in a 2 bedroom apartment but one of the bedrooms is totally unused. My electric bill is very high. It got even higher as my usage declined. For example, my last bill was over $200 for a 2-week period of usage at around 1500 kWh (I was out of state for the other 2 weeks) in which my thermometers, 1 for each bedroom and the living area, (electric baseboard heaters) were set to 55. To save on costs, I've only kept the living area at 55 (I was told this was the minimum to keep the pipes from freezing) and the bedroom at 60 when I get home from work when I've been around. Regular usage of electronics. And the most recent bill was higher than the bill before that, which was $179 for 4 weeks of similarly controlled heating. It should be said that I'm in the Midwest in a cold winter so far.

I called the electric company and they agreed that my usage shouldn't be as high as it is. They didn't even give me spiel about costs going up in winter etc. They suggested that either the water heater was affected somehow and causing surges, or that by looking at the other apartments' bills (5 in my building, 2 others with relatively similar costs but in bigger apartments and 2 with very low costs) that maybe there was some funkiness going on where my electric was tied in with someone else's.

Is this possible? Am I being ripped off somehow? It's really frustrating because I forced myself to live in less than ideal temps in order to save money but my bills keep going up for no understandable reason. I was told by the rep to flip my breakers and see if it affected anyone else's power, but I realized when trying to do this that my breakers were mislabeled and I'm afraid to poke around in it. Is this a bad sign? I contacted my landlord but I don't know how far it'll get.

Any suggestions for how to deal with this issue? I don't have any real electrical knowledge so I'm just trying to understand what's going on, and so far I've got nothing. Ideally, I'd like a fix that is totally DIY if there actually is some bad business at play. If it is just the water heater, can I just turn off that breaker occasionally when not needed? (If I can identify it). I've had it up to here with the bills, so please help!!

*Edit: A lot of interesting information here, thank you! The electric company has a function where you can publicly check the rates of residences, and there are 2 residences in my building that have similar bills to mine (highs over 200) but one whose highest bill was only 59. Is this meaningful? Is that one guy benefiting maybe without knowing? I heard back from my landlord but didn't get much helpful info. Says he'll contact the owner and let me know when he can come by to check things out. I'll try to fix the breaker labels before then.

*Also, I live in a building that I think was a renovated home, not a typical apartment building. I'm in a rural town, so there aren't many prototypical apartment buildings or complexes.

Your first step is labeling your breakers correctly.

So you need to go through the entire house and identify every outlet (either a socket or a hardwired load) and make a spreadsheet.  Plug something into every receptacle (you can usually, but not always, assume both sockets in a dual receptacle are on the same circuit).  Then move through the house, turning off everything and turning on one breaker at a time, and seeing what works with that breaker on.

If you are good at game theory, there are more efficient ways to identify all the circuits.

Now if you want to have some fun, you can label each breaker by a codename, like Homer, Bart, Lisa, Marge, Apu, etc. and then mark each outlet the same way.

During this testing, I'd aim for turning them all off as long as possible, only switching on the one in test.  That is to lengthen the amount of time circuits are off, to increase the chance of a neighbor complaining about his power going out. That'd be your power poacher right there.

While you're switching breakers, keep an eye on the spin rate of your analog power meter, or the instantaneous use number on your smart meter, for any abrupt changes.

Now, get a "Kill-a-Watt" and measure power of each pluggable device

You're looking for average watts over a long time.   This is to look for devices which may surprise you, like that "perfectly ordinary" PC that turns out to be a power hog.

For your fixed loads, particularly your electric heaters, figure out what their energy draw is.  Almost all of them will have a "nameplate" power rating that can be found on a nameplate, or in the documentation.  If they are "Cadet style" electric baseboard heaters, typically an 8' unit is 2000W, a 6' unit 1500W, and a 4' 1000W.

You may also find "Watts" labeled as "VA" (volt-amps). There are subtle differences between W and VA, that's why there are 2 different terms.  If you can only find "Amps", look also for volts (120 or 240) and multiply amps x volts.   V * A = VA =~ W.

Over those 2 weeks, you used 4.4kw (4400W) on average.  An "average" basic home with gas heat uses 1000W on average, so you used 3400W above that -- or almost two 2000W electric heaters burning 24x7.  Your goal is to do the detective work to find why.

Just the same, electric heat is murder. It's much more expensive than you expect it to be, because instead of getting 90% of the heat value of natural gas, you're getting like 30% with transmission losses.

If you are in an area with a lot of nuke or hydro, talk to your power company to see if they have special rates for people with electric heat.  For instance in the south, they have lots of nuke and their peak grid stress is in the summer A/C season, so they have plans that practically give away power the rest of the time.


How to track down source of water ingress I live in the UK in a house built in the 1930s. It has solid walls made of brick in a bond pattern with no cavity.
The living room has a major problem with damp blooming on the inside wall, centred around the chimney breast but spreading to the sides. This diagram shows the affected area in both plan and inside layout.
The wall is a plain gable except for the 2 windows shown.
There is a room above, but there is no sign of damp in there, not even at floor level. The "epicentre" of the damp appears to be around where the red X appears in my drawing. The "1 metre climb" limit would suggest that his is not rising damp.

I first noticed the problem about 10 years ago after refurbishing the room. It became clear that the previous owner had clad the chimney breast with a battens and plywood to
cover-up this problem.
There is no plumbing in the area that could be leaking, this is definitely ingress.
Being a gable, there is no gutter which could be leaking.
I've tried a cowl on the top of the chimney - this did not help, so it seems unlikely that the water is entering via the chimney.
The brickwork is rendered outside and there are no major cracks in it. The wall was re-painted about 5 years ago and appeared to be perfect at that time, but it has subsequently begun to flake and crack in certain places. There was no improvement when it was freshly painted.
Experts have looked and have no suggestion as to where this is coming from. Literally, to the point where damp specialists are not prepared to try investigating because they have no confidence in finding it.
What techniques can I use to track down the source of this water?

I have found using a infrared camera can be helpful in tracking leaks. My biggest headache was a leak that traveled more than 12’ from the point where the water was entering. The FLIR camera I use is a add on to my phone I use the pro model because of the added sensitivity and software. I have identified leaks that we could not see running down the framework. It is handy for evaluating heating and cooling losses and for electrical inspections you can find a bad connection or overloaded circuit by the heat. You may be able to identify the leak without removing the Sheetrock. I don’t have many saved photos but here is an example of a hot wire that can be seen with the cover on. With the water leaks they are green /blue with the standard colors but they show up quite similar to that hot wire. I should mention I have no interest in the FLIR company but this is my 2nd camera I have taken probably thousands of photos and found loose wires both at work and home.


Cracks in asphalt driveway I live in the Northeast, and we had a hard winter. Just a few small cracks in the asphalt. I went to home depot, but all they have are 5 gallon drums of sealer. To me, it looks like all I need is to do what the state does to the highways (thin stream of tar) in the crack.

What can I do for minor repair (rather than hire someone to re-seal the whole driveway) or on the other hand, perhaps I am wrong, and it is best to reseal the whole driveway?

You first need to fill in the cracks. Home Depot has a variety of products available. Some are latex based that are easy to apply but probably best used for smaller cracks up to 1/2" wide. Others are cold patches that you have to compress with a tamper or by driving over them a few times. Some need to be heated with a propane torch. Those I believe are the strongest available but a little more involved. Do a search for 'asphalt patch' on the website and you'll a variety of different products.

An asphalt sealer is just a top coat. It is used to protect the asphalt from water, UV, and other things that can degrade the asphalt. Think of it like a sealer you would apply to a wood deck. It is not meant for patching. Many sealers can however fill in small cracks up to 1/8" wide. Check the labels. You'll want to reseal the driveway every couple of years or so depending on your local climate and conditions to protect it.

At my local Home Depot I see a few different sealers that are in 4 to 4.75 gallon sizes. Never seen them sell anything in stores larger than that. Those buckets they sell usually have a coverage anywhere between 300-500 square feet which is usually more than enough for an average single car driveway. You want to apply the sealer over the entire driveway because it all needs to be sealed, not just the cracks/patches. In addition to protecting your driveway it restores the color and makes it look like new.


Is it safe to do a three-way splice in a single gang junction box? I'm splitting a room by adding a wall into it, and I would like to put receptacles into the new wall. I'm trying to do this making as few holes in the existing walls as possible, so I'm wondering if the following layout is safe.

The main change is replacing a single gang rheostat switch with a junction box like this, covered by a wall plate like this that would split the source into three cables going downstream. The junction box will be behind where a door opens, which is why I need to move the switch, and I'm not too concerned about the look of it.
The combination switch would be single gang as well since it is going into a narrow space (an area of wall between a door frame and a chimney).
I have done some reading, but I'm new to electrical work and just wanted to make sure this basic idea is safe / see if there's a more sensible way to do it.
I plan on using 12/2 Romex with ground cable, which I think is what is used in the rest of the circuit. All walls are drywall.

box fill for 12 awg wire has a multiplier of 2.25.
the ground wire is only counted once so with 3 cables plus the feed 1x2.25 for the ground 8x 2.25 for the 4 hot and 4 neutral.
There is no switch or device in this box so we could skip that but if there was 4.5 adder would be needed because 2x of the largest wire connecting to it.
The integrated clamps in that type of box do not count but if internal clamps in the box that would be a 2.25 adder.
so right now with 9x 2.25 The required volume would be 20.25 cubic inches
The box you listed is a little undersized. When I have this many cables I usually go to a 4 square box they do make 4 square old work boxes but those usually require clamps and a 2 gang face plate because a mud ring (single gang adapter) kinda messes up the old work idea. A 4 square x 2-1/8 deep would provide 30.3 cu inch if you wanted to put the device in that box it would be large enough for that and the clamps.


Can we connect 5000kvA TR from 11KV HT line? What is the maximum limit can use 11kV/400-230V Transformer (i.e 2000kvA~5000kVA TR) in 11KV HT line ?
What happen, if we connected 5000kVA Transformer from 11KV HT line?
It is allow or not? IF not allow ,why ?
Please advise me.
Thank you all.

You are missing a few things like is the transformer rated for this.
where in the world are you located? High voltage transformers are normally housed in a vault requiring trained maintenance personnel (in the U.S.).
The power company usually controls the high voltage side but not always if you have your own switch gear. Other things is this a delta-delta or delta-Y.  Are there reclosers on the input?
On the output side are you keeping your loads above or below the requirement for ground fault detection. These are just some of the questions that need to be answered. Depending on where you live it may require an engineer or a supervising electrician to evaluate the type of service/ connections and the coordination of the overload protection system. This is not something for an untrained person to even attempt.


How to fix hole in yard with/from burst irrigation pipe? I had the end cap crack on a 2" irrigation line buried 1-2' underground. It sprayed downwards, clearing away 2' of dirt vertically (3-4' total downward now). I found an area about 3-4' away from this site that also had water rushing up from it, so there is at least a 3-4' deep horizontal hole as well, all within feet of my patio and pool pump cement block.

How do I fix this?

I live in Tampa, FL. Ground is kinda of a dry clay/sand kind of dirt.

Right now, my idea is to carefully dig up where I think the hole is so that there's no cavity down there. Flush the broken line. Re-PVC-glue it was a new end cap. Refill hole it with some clay/compact dirt filler.

Schematic:

                  1'wide hole            2" hole
---------------------      --------------  ---------
                    |      |             | |
          1-2'  ======]    |             | |
                   /  X     \     3'     | |
                  /          ------------| |
                 |                         |    X is side of crack
             4'  --------------------------|
                           estimated cavity

I think your suggestion/idea is the solution. Unfortunately, when it comes to filling in earthen holes with earth, it's a very simple operation involving digging tools and excess clean fill.

Personally would excavate around and fix the broken end cap, and backfill. It's no more complicated than that.

TL:DR = Grab a shovel and order some dirt.


Is it OK to use 1/4" OSB over a standard subfloor before installing 3/4" hardwood on top? I'm planning to install a hardwood floor to butt up against ceramic tile.  The tile looks like it will be 1/4" proud to the wood.  Can I install 1/4" OSB over the subfloor, then the paper, then the Oak Flooring?
Any problems long term?

That will work.  That's probably one of the better things to use to bring your floor level.


Can I attach corrugated steel to cinder block for added privacy? After looking for ways to help improve privacy between me and my nextdoor neighbors I thought about buying 8ft long panels of corrugated steel and fastening them to our six foot cinder block wall. I plan on just setting them at the ground level and having the corrugated lines run up and down vertically. I'm going for a very modern austere look so this would not only function well for privacy needs but also work with my design style.
It's against city code for me to build anything on top of the fence but there's nothing that states I can't attach anything to the fence on my side. I wanted to know what is the best type of anchor screw for this type of application and if anyone has done this before and how successful they were.
I live in the desert with an average rainfall of only four inches yearly so I don't think I'd have to worry about water and moisture causing damage to the cinder block with a piece of metal in permanent contact with it over the long haul.
Lastly, would an anchor bolt with nut and washer added at the top provide me with more support?:
What I'm thinking of doing is drilling a hole in the corrugated panels so that the hole allows me to thread this anchor through it. The hole would be in alignment with the very top of the cinder block wall. I'd have the hook end on the opposite side grabbing onto the wall and on my side I'd tighten the bolt. I would want to add something like this for added strength since we get some high winds in the area from time to time. I think an extra two feet isn't much to worry about but I'm by no means an expert. Hence why I'm here asking for input.
Any suggestions for anchoring these panels to help me create my project would be appreciated.

I would not bother with that anchor bolt idea.  I'd go with a lot of small anchors rather than a few big ones.  Concrete screws, Tapcon brand are popular, should work.  I'd attach the metal top, middle and bottom spaced maybe 2' horizontally.

You'll need a masonry bit and a nutdriver bit the right size for the concrete screws, and a metal bit slightly larger.  I'd drill the metal first, then use the metal to locate the holes in the concrete, working bottom to top then side to side.
If you have a fairly flat concrete surface at the bottom of the wall, you could skip the bottom row of screws and hold it to the wall with either angle iron or a 2x2" strip of wood.  That would hold the bottom edge to the wall securely and might be quite a bit easier.


How to fix a crack in the corner of an outside wooden lamp post What is the best way to fix this wooden light post?
I was thinking clamps and glue.
Or maybe a nail?
[![enter image description here][1]][1]
[1]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/3S3lF.jpg![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m20hY.jpg)

You'll have to do a little checking to determine if you can clamp that seam back together. It might have been a poor fit to begin with in which case you won't be able to clamp it back. Try getting a hold of a clamp similar to the one pictured below and see if you can close the gap. If you can, get some good exterior wood glue and have at it. If you can't close the gap, get some quality wood filler that's paintable and fill the gap. Then paint. A quick and easy fix would be to just caulk it but it looks like a nice light so do it right.
Picture from amazon.com


Dimmer is controlling outlets I have a walk-in closet that was wired with one hot lead from the bathroom. I want to put in a dimmer for the lights but there are also 2 outlets coming off of the hot. When I put the hot wire together with the black wires from the dimmer and the outlets the dimmer controls the outlets as well as the lights. Is there any way to make it so the outlets are on a constant flow and the dimmer only controls the lights?

It would be a code violation to have a outlet connected to a dimmer, I would want to figure out where the hot is at the dimmer and connect the outlets to that then run the dimmer only to the light and that would be code compliant.


Can I hook up the Glas WiFi Thermostat with oil furnace in basement and central ac in attic I have an oil furnace in my basement with only 3 wires for the thermostat only 2 being used. I just installed central air in my house but air handler is in the attic with 5 wires for the thermostat 4 being used. my question is I bought the Glass WiFi Thermostat can I hook both systems up to it or do I need to have 2 separate thermostats

Looking at the installation instructions found here, I see two important details.  First, the thermostat does have a connection for Rc and Rh.  When you have two thermostats and two systems located in different areas, you normally have two low voltage transformers for the control systems.  The red wire from the heat goes to Rh, and the red wire from cooling goes to Rc.

The other subtle but important bit is this note:

  Note: If you have only one R wire, connect to RC.

This tells us that Rc is the "main" red wire connection, and the common wire (that is required) must also come from the cooling system.

So, yes, this thermostat should work, but when it comes to hooking up a C wire, that will need to come from the cooling system.  If your heating and cooling system have separate fans (blowers), then you might need to wire the furnace so that the fan always comes on with the heat and you will not have separate heat fan control.

Check the manual for other details and even call their customer support because I don't have all the facts, but it at least seems it's worth a try or more research.


Debris from Roof causing Gutters to clog I just recently replaced the gutters on the entire property and also installed a mesh over them to keep debris out of the gutters. However, I noticed that it was still overflowing during a recent thunderstorm.
Upon closer inspection, it appears that some tree debris from the roof is running through the roof troughs and collecting in the gutter corners (mitres) thereby impeding the flow of water.

Is there an effective way to prevent this run-in from the roof on to the gutter, stopping short of just cutting off the trees on the property?

I have included pictures with the problem areas highlighted. Again, these gutters are less than 3 weeks old and are 6 inches wide.

It is generally advisable to not have tree branches making contact with your house, so regardless you might want to consider trimming the branches back.  Removing the tree entirely is probably overkill but is an option.  Make sure to check with your local jurisdiction to see if a permit is required.

Alternatively, you're just going to need to clean them out regularly, especially in the spring and fall.

Even with gutter guards, debris will still find its way into the gutters, albeit it at a slower rate.


Where to find plastic corner pipe cover I'm looking for a plastic box with 2 open sides that can be attached to the wall. Maybe about 8x8 or 10x10. I need to cover a PVC vent pipe that curves in the corner of the wall.  I just can't find it.  I can imagine how it should look but have not found anything like it yet.  I don't want to box it in with 2x2s and drywall since it's so small and studs aren't in the right place so I'd have to make the box like 23 x 14 inches instead. A little plastic box cover would be so much easier and simpler.  Any ideas?

You have a lot of options with this one, since it's just peeking from the corner and not running along the wall (if the elbow were the opposite direction). If I were covering this, I would use some decorative wood and build 4 sides of a box on the top, bottom, and 2 faces of this PVC. It ends up looking something like this: https://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/2/27/Hide-Pipes-in-the-Kitchen-Step-14.jpg/aid5958328-v4-728px-Hide-Pipes-in-the-Kitchen-Step-14.jpg
You could attach such a box to the wall with glue, or a hinge if you periodically need access to it (e.g. to check for leaks).

If you want to be less formal (this looks like a basement, so maybe the industrial look is OK or desired, even) they make pretty sturdy plastic boxes with squared sides, you could cut two sides off of one of these to hide your PVC. My favorite look is the Project Box (https://www.google.com/search?q=project+box) and these come in many shapes, sizes and colors and most feature a screwplate lid so you could still have access to the PVC inside.


Installing a larger pulley to a smaller motor shaft With reference to the picture below,
I am trying to attach a pulley with a hole diameter of 1/2" [item #4]  to a motor shaft that is 1/4" 5/16" [item #1], but it currently does not completely fit.
Thanks to something that increases the diameter of the shaft [item #2, don't know the name], part of the motor shaft fits into the pulley.
However, when trying to install the pulley, the shaft ended up not being long enough to thread the nut [item #3] into.
Would some kind of shaft extender be required to properly install the pulley onto the motor shaft?

The “best” solution would be to get a machine shop to make a single piece of 2 and 3 combined which also has a flat on the outside so that the locating screw has a proper surface to bite.
That would also control the depth of the pulley on the shaft.
Perhaps you should also check for pulleys with smaller internal diameters.


Gas Fireplace Pilot won’t stay lit I was trying to light my pilot and was having difficulty. The steps I followed.

Turn on gas
Turned pilot button from "off" to "pilot"
Pushed in pilot button
Pushed igniter
Pilot will light but when I release pilot button it goes off.

I can not turn main fireplace on because pilot won’t stay lit.

You'll have to hold the pilot button pushed in for some time, maybe as long as 20 seconds, so that the thermocouple will heat up and act to keep the pilot lit.
If the pilot still will not remain lit even after holding the button for a long time then the thermocouple probably has failed. Generally a thermocouple is a replaceable, semi-universal part. They can be found at big-box home centers, online, at plumbing supply stores, etc.


Tee size in efficient flow splitting of main water supply I am re-piping the water supply lines in my house. I have a 1 inch supply line coming from the main.  This will travel about 30 feet before being split into 2 lines, one supplying the hot and the other supplying the cold.

My intention is to run the 1 inch into the "top" of a copper tee then having 3/4 inch lines coming out from the two branches.

I could use a 3/4 x 3/4 x 1" reducing tee, but I am wondering if having a bigger tee would help in reducing pressure loss at the split.

For example, if I used a 2" x 2" x 1" tee with fitting reducers then taking the 2 inch down to 3/4 for the branches, would that help at all?

Or is there a better way than a tee to split the flow equally?

Thanks.

James most of the Sinks and toilets in your home have 3/8 plumbing many homes are plumbed with 1/2 pipe through the entire house. The places you will see a pressure drop is usually hose bibs, showers and most kitchen faucets have water saving restrictors built into them. It all comes down to how many faucets will you have going at the same time and the size of pipe and distance of the pipe feeding them. If your home is plumbed with 3/4" that's all you need when you split the 1". I state this as I have never plumbed a house with anything larger than 3/4", but do use 1"pipe to feed most houses larger pipe 1-1/4" for over 100' and 1-1/2" for anything over ~150'. With this said I think you would be wasting $ to go bigger than 3/4" T from your 1" main.


I need to enclose this porch. What are the things that I can expect to have to do? So the plan is to remove the planter, build a wall on the side where the planter is Relocate the entrance door. Practically this turns the porch into a entrance hallway.
The porch has light on the ceiling, controlled from inside. The porch is built on a concrete slab that you can see in the picture. I am inclined to believe that it has a proper foundation and it won't need to rebuild it.
I will have to remove the tin ceiling of the porch and install drywall and insulation there. I might choose to leave the brick look of the wall adjacent to the garage (left side of the picture) and insulate that section of the wall from inside the garage.

What am I missing or overlooking. For those of you who want to make references to the code this is in Ontario Canada

Aside from local code, building the walls with proper header(s) for door(s)/window(s), electrical outlets and switches, you are on the right path. Big issue I see is the concrete slab. That will be a heat loss issue. You could potentially build it up with some insulation inside the cavity, but you might be limited in height to have it the same as the current room floor.


Can I replace this broken pipe under my kitchen sink? This pipe under my kitchen sink has a big crack in the area circled in yellow. (It's on the back side so it isn't visible in the photo.) Can I simply unscrew the nut at the top that I circled in red to replace the pipe? I'm afraid to just go ahead and try in the fear that I will put my kitchen sink out of commission. I'm already ok with disconnecting the hand-tightened nut at the bottom.

Update:

Success! I replaced the tailpiece with no problem. Thanks to all for the help.

Yes - that's a "tailpiece" - the new one may be too long, if so, they are made that way so you can cut them to fit - but there's also considerable space to slide them built into the connections, so don't overdo cutting them down.


Neutral wiring in a panel in a panel does it matter if the neutral wire goes to a different side of the panel than its corresponding hot wire?

or

can I connect two neutrals in a junction box that go back to different junction bars on the panel?

In a main service panel; where the grounded (neutral) is bonded, you can land the grounded (neutral) conductor at either bus bar.

In a panel where the grounded (neutral) and grounding bus bars are separate, you can only land a grounded (neutral) conductor on the grounded (neutral) bus bar.  In this case, you'll either have to install a grounded (neutral) bar on each side of the panel, or route all the grounded (neutral) conductors to the same bar.


7 wires, 3 sources, switchable power in 2 wires - how to put it back? I tried to mount a new lamp and it couldn't fit because of the ceiling rose so I took it out to see what can be done.

Turns out that there are 7 wires coming from 3 different sources, 2 hot wires, depending on how I turn the electricity on / off at the panel. I also lost power in few power sockets in that room so I assume that the outlet was chaining the electricity.

2 of the 3 sources have 2 wires in them, while the 3rd has 3 wires. The sources with 2 wires are the ones which have the hot wires. It's an old building so I assume there is no ground wire among them. As for their color, 4 of them are white and 3 black.

I don't know what other info would be neccesary. Let me know if you need to know something else.

PS: I used one of those electrical screwdrivers to check which one is hot.

EDIT: More images

Wires:

The rose

I tried to test out different combinations, blowing up a fuse in the process. In the end I gave up and called an electrician.

He figured it out by testing out which wires make a circuit with the wall plugs. He had some sort of multimeter for testing it.

I believe the wiring was done similar to the following diagram (while ignoring ground wires):


Is this mold in my apartment? I recently found a slow water leak in the back of my closet which houses both the AC unit and the hot water heater. Maintenance came and pulled up the carpet and sprayed water/bleach on the affected area and has a fan blowing on it to help dry it out.

The leak was on the RIGHT side of the closet:

However, the LEFT side houses the AC unit which has leaked onto the carpet (now since removed) at least three times in the years that I've lived here. This is the first time that the carpet has been removed.

A water/bleach solution was sprayed only on the RIGHT side and NOT on the left under the AC unit. I looked at it today and saw that there are large white spots which appear to be fuzzy around the edges. I don't know if this is a result of the carpet installation or removal or how to tell if it is in fact mold. But it was not treated as I would guess that maintenance didn't see it as mold:

Here is a closer inspection of a white area with visible fuzz:

The maintenance personnel at this location have an air of being overworked and will sometimes leave a job unfinished, have to be reminded by a follow-up to the office, and always seem to want to just get in an get out with the least amount of effort. The regular staff in the office and the maintenance manager are great-- it's just the actual maintenance personnel that I have poor faith in both by observation and previous experience.

The wood beneath the carpet is seriously damaged but this may be historical for the life of the apartment and well before my tenancy. I don't know how long the leak has existed or how long this apartment has been here but the original building which was renovated has existed for over 100 years. I have been informed that the wood will not be replaced and I assume that they plan to put new carpet on top. As this is a closet which doesn't get any foot traffic and is not used for storage, I understand this decision, despite the appearance.

Tomorrow when maintenance returns to re-carpet, I plan to ask them to spray on the white area and come back tomorrow just in case.

This is a bit of a long-winded explanation as I felt the need to give a full account of the details and to explain why the wood looks as bad as it does even though it isn't part of the question.

So my question is: on the LEFT side where there are the large white splotches on the wood which appear to be fuzzy to my untrained eye, the same area beneath which my AC intake has leaked water onto several times, this area which was NOT sprayed, appears like it might be mold.

Could it be mold?

Bonus questions but not required for a solution:

Is it unusual for maintenance to leave the rotted wood (though dry now and treated with water/bleach) and cover it up rather than pulling it out and replacing it?
I was told by the maintenance manager who said that he worked in mold removal previously that I had mildew and did not have mold. Does this sound plausible?

Mold and mildew are both fungus growths but former is usually a black or greenish color whilst the mildew is typically a more white or light gray in color. A mildew could also appear to be fuzzy.

Mildew is easy to clean up using a readily available cleaner and a scrub brush. I would suggest that you experiment to see of those white splotches are able to be scrubbed up and if so then let the maintenance folks know that it should be removed.

In the other hand these white patches could be the residue of some type of foam based carpet padding that stuck to the wood and stayed behind when the old carpet and padding was ripped out. If this is the case then it should be possible to remove most of it using a scraper or putty knife.


Low Voltage Home Wiring I have a custom built new construction home, but I was not involved with the build process, so I don't know the thought behind some of the equipment decisions.
I am an engineer, so curiosity has me exploring some of the technical details of my home, I am not having any issues with the electrical system.
Near the main electrical panels, there are three low voltage DC power supplies.  I am trying to understand what they are used for.
Using a multimeter, I was able to determine that they are powered via a circuit breaker in the main panel labeled "Low Voltage System".  Turning this breaker off doesn't seem to make anything in my home stop functioning (Lighting, smoke alarms, HVAC all work normally with this breaker turned off).
They are not involved with the door bell or HVAC equipment (As there are standard AC transformers for this equipment).
My home is equipped with a generator transfer switch (See: Using portable generator with transfer switch), could these somehow be involved with that?
Does anyone know what these power supplies are used for?
Main Electrical Panels:

Cover Removed from power supply:

After additional searching, I found that these power supplies are used for the full home audio system using similar (But not the same) wire as each speaker uses.  The system was never fully installed, so I didn't notice it before.
Currently all of the speakers and outputs of these power supplies are just left un-terminated in giant spool of wire in the utility room.   I don't believe this to be code compliant as the low voltage and high voltage wire share a single conduit.


Can removal of adhesive tape damage a tile? I bought some small lights that attach to the wall with adhesive tape/sticker (3M).
The label on the box says:

  Caution: Adhesive tape may remove paint or damage surface when removed

If the tape is attached to tiles is there a chance that there could be some kind of damage done upon removal?

If you are talking about glazed ceramic tiles, then the probability of damage is very very low. (There's still the possibility of scratches, if you attack the tile with a blade, but that's not the fault of the tape.)

The only exception I can think of is a small category of rustic tiles that have a very poorly adhered glaze or no glaze at all, but I doubt those would be on the wall.


What can I do to make my downstairs layout better? Hi. Looking to modify our downstairs since the house isn't selling and it doesn't work in its current state. We've had a structural engineer out so load bearing walls have been identified. What would your suggestions be? Things being considered :

Move kitchen into lounge and rejig dining room and current kitchen to make a utility room between bathroom and rest of downstairs

Knocking through dining room and kitchen to make a big kitchen diner

Adding an extension to square off the house (last resort as have two kids under 2.5).

Any thoughts or other suggestions? Any feedback on how tricky it is to change kitchen to front of house? Boiler is in the bathroom and no upstairs loo if that is useful info.

Thanks for any help.

Moving the kitchen to another location is typically a rather large project because things like plumbing and critical electrical wiring have to move. Even swapping sides in a kitchen can lead to a lot of "down to the framing" type of work.

Your picture does not show the current kitchen layout so it is not possible to envision just what may be possible. Despite that, opening up the space between the kitchen and dining room may be the easiest thing to solve the long narrow kitchen plan as shown.


can you combine 2 circuits into 1? Can I safely combine two 15 amp double pole circuits into a single 30 amp double pole circuit?

I am trying to make space in my 200 amp box to put a 40 amp double pole breaker to support a water heater upgrade.  The 200 amp box will support the added draw—whoever built this put a lot of small circuits in.

No.  The breakers are sized for the wire that was run.  If you put two circuits into one breaker a single wire of the circuit (which was rated to carry 15amps) could now carry 30 before the breaker blows.  This can lead to melting wires and fires.

You could combine both circuits to a single 15 amp breaker, but it would likely be overloaded.  This might be a possibility if both circuits are very lightly loaded.

What you can do, if your panel supports them, is get a tandem breaker - which will have two 15 amp circuit breakers in a single unit that takes up the same slot as a single breaker.

Otherwise you will need an electrician to setup a subpanel - they will add a second panel which connects to the first, and move some of the circuits to this new panel to create room in the main one.


Fix lead joint between cast iron and galvanized steel plumbing pipes? I took out my bathtub to replace a rotted wall behind it, and the drain pipe fell out.  (Yes, I unscrewed the drain fitting before removing the tub.)  The joint under the concrete slab, where the drain pipe meets the P-trap, is what came apart.

drain pipe and P-trap http://www.bolis.com/albums/projects2014/20140528_130558_bathroom_plumbing.sized.jpg

The P-trap is below the concrete slab, and not right under the tub drain, so it was extended up to the tub drain with two 45-degree elbows.  The P-trap is cast iron, and so are the two 45-degree elbows.  The pipe nipples joining them are galvanized steel, US 1-1/2 inch NPT.

The P-trap, however, is not threaded, at least not with 1-1/2 NPT threads.  It looks like there could be a smaller, finer thread; it might be tub drain fitting threads.  Or it might just be my imagination; it is hard to tell with the rust.

It appears that the steel pipe nipple was set into the P-trap and sealed with lead.  The lead made sort of a gasket, sitting in a lip or shoulder of the P-trap.  The lead ring was peeled up slightly on the left side.  I imagine it may have had a small gap with a the P-trap for a long time.  I attempted to peel it off with pliers, as you can see, but it is held quite firmly on the right-hand side.

P-trap http://www.bolis.com/albums/projects2014/20140528_130530_bathroom_plumbing.sized.jpg

P-trap http://www.bolis.com/albums/projects2014/20140528_130409_bathroom_plumbing.sized.jpg

This type of connection is used elsewhere in the house.  Here is another one nearby, which I think is for a vent stack.
lead pipe joint http://www.bolis.com/albums/projects2014/20140528_130510_bathroom_plumbing.sized.jpg

The house was built in 1966, and I assume this is original construction.

I scraped the joints with a knife, and I'm quite certain they are lead.  There is no clearance gap between the galvanized drain pipe and the cast-iron P-trap hub.  There is no oakum; this is not a bell-and-spigot leaded oakum joint.

So: what's the best way to repair this pipe joint?  I have replaced the bottom pipe nipple on the drain pipe with a new one, but how should I reconnect it to the P-trap?

I'm sure I can clean off the old P-trap and set the drain pipe back in place (after I measure and position it carefully to line back up with the tub).  How should I reconnect it?  I can imagine several alternatives:

Re-melt the lead by heating the cast iron P-trap with a MAPP or acetylene torch
Remove excess lead and pack with epoxy putty
Dig out the P-trap and replace with a threaded one, perhaps in a better location.

I really don't want to replace the P-trap buried under the slab if I can avoid it.  I'm leaning towards trying to remelt the lead, but I don't know what pitfalls to avoid.

Advice? Suggestions?  Thanks in advance for any help.

Re-leading the joint isn't too hard.  You will need a slug of lead, a ladle, yarning iron, packing iron, caulking irons, oakum, and torch.  The process goes like this:

Safety first!  Wear thick leather gloves and avoid eating lead particles.
Clean the old lead out
Using a yarning iron, pack the oakum around the pipe. Repeat this operation until the hub is packed to about 1” from its top. Pack the oakum with a hammer and packing iron to make a bed for the molten lead.
Using the plumber’s ladle, carefully pour the molten lead into the joint, as shown in Figure 30. Dip enough lead to fill the joint in one pouring. Allow a minute or two for the molten lead to harden and change incolor from royal blue to a dull grey. Usually, one pound of lead is melted for each inch of pipe size.
Caulk the joint first using the outside caulking iron and then the inside caulk ing iron. The first four blows should be struck 90 degrees apart around the joint to set the pipe. Drive the lead down on the oakum and into contact with the spigot surface on one edge and the inner surface of the hub on the other. Use firm but light hammer blows.

The process isn't really hard at all for vertical pipe, but does require some specialized tools.  If you have several of these joints in your house, it might be worth the investment!

Yarning irons:

Caulking Irons:

Inside/Outside Caulking Irons:

Ladle:

Horzontal Pour:


Ceiling box wiring help I've attached a photo of a ceiling box my wife is having me install a light fixture on. I have done many fixtures with the standard hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. I'm not sure what is going on in this box. Can anyone offer any insight into how I would go about wiring to the fixture?  The switch it is on is a standard switch, not a 3-way.  The fixture being installed has 1 hot, 1 neutral, and 1 ground.

I am putting just a start of an answer here since I needed to post a picture.

To get anywhere in making progress it is necessary to understand where the end of the wire highlighted in the picture below actually goes. From the picture it looks like it may just poke out through the bottom side of the electrical box.

The shadows inside the box in the picture also make it hard to see all the existing connections.

So where does that lone white wire go?

Update:

If @Joe is correct and the white wire that I highlighted does join in with the two black wires in the right most wire nut then it would be highly likely that wires a hot connection to the switch on the wire that exits at the top right of the picture.

Then in that case the black wire that extends off to the right in the picture is the switched hot that would go the the hot wire of the light fixture. The GND of the fixture would be joined into the other safety grounds on the center wire nut. The neutral of the fixture would be joined in with the two white wires on the left most wire nut in the picture.

Note this would be a good time to mark that white wire by painting or taping black to indicate that it is being used as a hot wire. Do in this box and at the switch to bring that connection to modern recommendations to alert future folks about the non standard wire color usage.

Update 2: Dead Wire?

You should put some attention to where that black and white wire that exit from the upper right corner of the picture go to. There are a number of things that could be going on here as follows:

Wire goes to a different switch box than you think.
Someone may have drilled a hole someplace and severed the wire before it gets to the switch box.
In the proper switch box the switch may be faulty.
In the switch box the wire may have been disconnected for some reason.
There may be an intermittent wire connection in the switch box.

In any case, now understanding how that white wire is interconnected in with the other two black wires, it is clear that that upper right wire pair is meant to be a switch loop. Any one of the reasons I listed above raises serious safety concerns unless it is 100% understood. Consider that there could be a combination of issues such as (2) happened followed by (4). If you or your father in law are not able to ascertain what the issue is then you should call in a professional electrician. To be honest, knowing what we do now, the idea of just using a pull chain fixture is as bad as just sweeping a problem under the rug.