wood frame, load bearing calculation I'm in the construction of a home cinema, and the plan is to make a 3-side (2 walls plus ceiling) wood frame construction that I'll line with fabric and fill with sound absorbing material.

Now I'm trying to estimate how thick wood I will need to carry the ceiling. Lo and behold my planning sketch:

The ceiling beams are 6x12 cm solid wood, the smallest ones that I could find in the length that I need (420 cm). They will carry some 2.4 by 4.8 cm cross bars above which I will place styrofoam as a sound absorber (not the best, but the lightest) and then close off the ceiling with fabric. One bar also will carry the projector, and there will be LED light strips and cables, etc.

I worry about the side frames (in light wood in this pic). How thick will they need to be to carry the ceiling construction? How can I calculate this at all? I have no clue about the strength of wood under various stresses. Should I make them more thick, just to be sure or am I worried for no reason?

Additional info:

I want the entire construction to be free-standing, if possible. I would prefer to not drill into the walls or ceiling. But if you can explain me why that's a really stupid idea and I would make my life so much easier if I would hang it from the ceiling, let me know.
In the pic, the side frames are made from 2.4 by 4.8 cm wood.

How long are the 6 x 12cm beams?

With just two sides and a top you are going to have problems with a freestanding unit wanting to parallelogram unless you put some corner bracing in the upper corners that should span down at least 25 to 35% of the height. This of course can be mitigated by fastening into the existing building structure.

It is my feeling that the sides being framed from 2.4 x 4.8cm members is pretty flimsy. I would use something that is much sturdier more like on the order of 4.8 x 9.6cm for the side members.


Black stains in wood, identifying the cause I found a used bedroom furniture set which includes a bed frame and box spring. I've put together the bed frame but upon looking at the box springs more closely, I see there are some dark stains around the edges.

How can I determine whether this is mold or a wood destroying organism, or something else?
I also noticed that looks similar to signs of dry rot, but I'm not sure.

It appears like mold, I found a link that goes over some simple ways to test if something is mold.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/how-to-test-for-mold/
I personally would check if the wood is soft, if the wood has an earthy smell... like the smell of dirt and decomposing leaves, both strongly indicate mold.


How to troubleshoot wiring that trips AFCI breakers? Here's the first part of the story.  Summing up, existing wiring was put on AFCI breakers. Some outlets had hot/neutral reversed.  Electrician corrected this.

Now, the front porch light, not part of work that electrician performed, trips two AFCI breakers! The lights go off in the two of the bedrooms and the hallway outside the bedrooms.  The two bedrooms are where the outlets had hot/neutral reversed. I didn't test the all receptacles to see if they have power. Each room had one receptacle that didn't have power.

What could be happening? How do I go about debugging this wiring?
What are the steps?

Update
Found this Siemens guide for troubleshooting.  I have the Siemens QA115AFCP single-pole 15-amp Combination AFCI Breaker.

Update
The house was built in 1939. There are metal junction boxes in various places (I've seen them in the attic). There is metal conduit that runs between junction boxes. I don't believe they are grounded.

Update 1/15/17
I tested all of the outlets in the house.  Here's more info.
All of the outlets in the living room (and one outlet in the adjacent room that shares a wall with the living room) trips the two AFCI breakers when I plug in a light and switch it on!
(Is it basically one offending wire that feeds all of those outlets?)

Update 1/16
The electrician checked it out and said that the wiring consisted of two hot lines and a shared neutral. He's rewriting two of the rooms that we're tripping to have their own home run.

Update 1/17
The electrician fixed the situation and ran a new home run with an AFCI breaker to the two bedrooms. He also discovered that the forced air heating unit was wired with a shared neutral so he also ran a new home run to that (with a normal breaker). The living room with outlets that tripped an AFCI breaker, they wired to a normal breaker.

You don't need to decrypt breaker indicators.  The fact that two breakers trip is all you need to know.

Why would one thing trip 2 breakers?  These two circuits have their neutrals crossed, tied together, or interacting in some way.  Perhaps one device which takes its hot from circuit 1 is taking its neutral from circuit 2.

Hots and neutrals are supposed to be monogamous -- they're only supposed to partner with each other, ever.  That's always been in the code.  But until recently, crossing neutrals "worked" - it didn't cause any detectable problems.

What happened "recently" was adoption of GFCI and AFCI.  Those absolutely require hots and neutrals be monogamous.  If current comes back on the neutral in an unexpected way, that makes it trip.

So you have to go through each circuit, look closely at every box, and find the place where a neutral doesn't match its hot.  It's a tedious job, and I've done it.  If it helps, get gray tape and put it on the neutral from one of the circuits.  Gray is an allowable color for marking neutrals.


Our tiler put Grout Boost on after laying grout, thinking it was grout sealer. What should we do? Our tiler made an error and put Grout Boost on after laying the grout, thinking it was grout sealer.  What should we do?

Will Grout Boost act as sealer when applied after grout is put down and dry?

Or should we put sealer over the grout and Grout Boost?

Or wash the Grout Boost off then put down grout sealer?

Or tear up the tile and start over... hope not!!

Grout Boost is meant to be mixed with the grout before installation.  If you can clean it off and the grout looks ok afterwards, I imagine you could use regular grout sealer.

Personally, if you are paying them to do the job, I'd want them to dig out the existing grout and re-grout it.  There is no need to tear up all the tiles, just the grout.

You might try emailing the folks at groutboost.com and see what they recommend specifically.


How can I run light to light first, then switch, then continue the run to more circuits? I have a circuit that I'd like continue after a switch  like this:

Outlet → Outlet → Light → Switch (CONTINUE) → Outlet → Outlet → Outlet → Outlet → Outlet

How can I continue the run with the switch as a junction?

Run a /3 cable from the light to the switch

This is easy -- you just need to run a /3 cable from the light to the switch, then use the red wire in the cable as a switched hot from the switch back to the light.


No ground screw on Amana LE8317L2 Dryer I am hooking up a 4 wire cord to a 3 wire dryer. I don’t see a green screw but there are two other green cords with a stripe on them that I can’t seem to turn.
Where should the green wire from my cord go?
Those are the only other screws in that terminal area.

I'd try the hole on the back, behind the white wire
I'd try threading a 10-32 grounding screw into the open hole on the back side of the wiring compartment and using that to land your ground.  If that hole's the wrong size, then I'd get a Garvin GSST and carefully drive it into the sheet metal enclosing the wiring comparment, then land the grounding lead from the cord on that.


What are the requirements for a bathtub or steam shower in a bedroom? We live in a suburb of Minneapolis. Our master bedroom has a decent amount of unused space. My wife really wants a steam shower. Rather than remodeling an existing bathroom, I've started thinking about adding the steam shower to our bedroom.

Steam showers are enclosed and well-sealed to keep the steam from escaping until you get out. Many of them also seem to be more-or-less freestanding, and don't need to be fixed to the floor/walls to the same degree as a normal shower/tub.

Bathrooms of course have special code requirements around ventilation, electrical, etc.

I'm wondering what kinds of things we would need to think about in order to plan this project. For example, at its simplest could the steam shower just be installed in a corner of the bedroom? Or does it need to be walled off with its own door/HVAC/etc?

For it to be a bath it requires 2 fixtures (a basin with one or more other fixtures per 2017 NEC) With just the shower I see no problem but you would need to change any receptacles within 6’ to a GFCI.


Pros and cons of walling off window from inside only or removing window and sealing wall totally We live in Florida. To gain additional wall space we are considering using wallboard on the inside only and leaving the window as is to the outside.

What are the pros and cons?

Does this increase the mold factor?

The pros are simply that it saves you siding repair and may add visual interest to the outside of your home. The cons are that you now have a window that you can't maintain from the inside.

I did this at my family's lake home, but it was only intended to be that way  for a few months until warmer weather. We framed inside the window, insulated, and applied vapor barrier on the inside as is standard here. There were no problems at the time we removed the window and repaired the siding later that year.

Whether you have mold issues is going to depend on the quality and condition of the window. Some moisture will get behind the window due to air movement, but it shouldn't be a problem unless heavy moisture gets trapped.


Envi Heater and safe distance to hang art We just moved into a place that has an Envi wall heater. I am concerned that I can't hang art above the unit. A search on their FAQ does not indicate what is a safe distance to hang art above the unit.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of heater and hanging electronics or art above it?

https://www.eheat.com/envi-high-efficiency-whole-room-plug-in-electric-panel-heater-hh1012t/

Get a stick-on thermometer, and stick it on the wall where you want to put stuff.  See what the temperature is.  That will tell you if it is a safe temperature range.


Inlet valve for dishwasher came off. - Can I use JB weld on the compression fitting? Good Afternoon,
About six weeks ago I installed a compression fitting to a copper pipe, which was to be used for the dishwasher inlet.
The nut at the back was  leaking a bit, so I  put silicone around it, worked for six weeks and no noticeable leaking.
Today it just burst off, water everywhere.
This is the compression fitting that came off. You can see the white silicone on the right side of the nut.

Instead of getting another compression fitting, can I just put JB Weld on the back end?
The blue part is where the silicone was, I want to remove it and put JB Weld there.

A compression joint that relies on any kind of sealant is a leak waiting to happen.
Sometimes the leak is very anxious to get started and begins dripping immediately. Other times the leak is patient and stealthy, waiting even weeks before POW! it soaks you and wreaks water damage everywhere.
Here are some things I've learned by experience:

the tubing must be bright clean and round where the ferrule will compress it
when tightening the nut ensure the tubing is very straight in the fitting. If it isn't the ferrule can be crimped onto the tube a little crooked.
don't over-tighten - IMHO a compression fitting takes less force on the wrench than a pipe thread fitting would. If it leaks under pressure you can tighten it a little more, but if that still fails, it'll have to be disassembled and inspected.

I suggest you disassemble the joint, carefully inspect all the parts for nicks, debris, and deformity, and replace parts as needed. In particular I'd consider cutting off the end of the tubing and try again with a new ferrule and meticulous cleaning of the tubing.


What steps to install a lightning rod on my 1 story home? I have two chimneys, one of which sticks up much higher than the other and the rest of the house.  Is installing a lightning rod as simple as attaching it to the taller chimney and running a suitably large gauge wire to a buried ground?  Or does installing a lightning rod require an electrician, either due to complexity or code?  (I live in New York State.)

My understanding of lightning rods is that the general design is just as you describe, but you must contact the local electrical code enforcement for the exact specifications, equipment, and procedures. They may give you advice on how you can install this yourself or they may require you to have it professionally installed. After all you don't want to have happen to your house what happened to Mark Twain's house in NY. Mark Twain's lightning rod story

BTW it is my understanding that Twain's story is without any scientific basis even though it is delightful tale. Lightning rods actually don't attract lightning, but instead prevent it from striking in the first place. The idea is the sharp point on the rod discharges the charge in the earth induced by a charged cloud overhead.


How to plumb a washing machine 30 ft from the waste stack? I would like to install a washing machine in my basement, about 30 feet from the main waste stack. The stack is fully accessible and already has a capped 2" port about 8" above the concrete floor.

Can this be done? How do I look up the diameter and slope requirements? Where do I put a vent?

1/4" per foot of slope is generally considered the minimum slope, so as long as you have a bit over 7" to work with vertically, you should be able to slope the drain over 30' just fine. You'd set up your discharge p-trap, and then vent immediately after that...tying that back to the main vent stack. So you'll end up with two 30' feet runs of pipe (drain + vent).

Obviously, check with local plumbing codes for specifics.

This all assumes you have water hookups in that location. If not, then you'll have to get those over there as well.


What is the code-mandated overlap of welded wire mesh in concrete slabs? I'm trying to find a code reference for welded wire reinforcement in residential concrete slab foundations. I though it was 6" overlap of the sheets, but some sources are saying it's more. Does anyone know the specific overlap required?

Location is Georgia, United States.

Short version: Yes, 6” is adequate.

Long version: (and I have a keen interest in this topic...so it will be long): Rebar is placed (installed) for TENSION. We design concrete beams and slabs to “fail” in tension so it fails with a crack, rather than designing it to fail in compression so it fails with an explosion.

Tension occurs due to 1) bending stress, or 2) temperature stress. (Some would say “curing stress” too, but that is not correct, because the concrete is shrinking and therefore the steel is in compression. )

1) Bending stress is taken with rebar, not mesh. Mesh is too small to account for much tensile stress.

2) Temperature stress (usually in slabs) is minor compared to bending stress and mesh can “help” absorb this stress. (Installing control joints is another way of relieving temperature stress.)

The most accepted testing agency to identify how concrete and reinforcing steel reacts is ACI American Concrete Institute and is referenced in ALL Codes. They recommend 30 to 40 bar diameter for steel in tension, depending on the grade of steel and the grade of concrete.

Therefore, your wire mesh (probably #6 wire) is 0.16” diameter x 30 = about 4.8”.


How do I put multiple lights on one switch on a timer? I have 4 lights outside that are all wired to 1 light switch inside.

What is the best/cost effective way to put all these lights on a timer?

They are now making in-wall single pole timers that do not need a neutral wire, for older homes that don't have a neutral run to the switch boxes. Should be easy to install (as long as your switch box is not too crowded).


Voltage still present after breaker is off My home built in 2016 has a pre-wired car charger line in the garage, I am trying to install a NEMA 14-50 outlet there.
Before I started, first thing I did was turning off the breaker to the car charger, then I used a non-contact voltage tester, which buzzed on both red and black wires, but not white or ground. I did some research and people were saying that those voltage testers are not very reliable and can  pick up phantom voltages. So I bought a multimeter, and it showed 120-125V when I measured between red/black and ground.
What does this mean? Did the builder screw up the breaker connection, or is there something else?
My plan next is to have my utility company turn off the main circuit, wear class 0 gloves and install the outlet, then turn the power back on. Any problems with the plan?
Thanks in advance!

Before I started, first thing I did was turning off the breaker to the car charger, then I used a non-contact voltage tester, which buzzed on both red and black wires, but not white or ground. I did some research and people were saying that those voltage testers are not very reliable and can pick up phantom voltages. So I bought a multimeter, and it showed 120-125V when I measured between red/black and ground.

Yeah, that's energized, alright.

Before I started, first thing I did was turning off the breaker to the car charger

That's where it went wrong. The panel labeling is wrong.  (or remote possibility, the wiring).

There is no main breaker in the breaker box, there is a power shut off breaker outside my unit but it is locked by the utility company.

That's not legal, they can't do that!  It is literally a Code violation to deny you access to your own main breaker, unless you are in a hotel or dormitory where supervisory staff is on-call 24x7 to reset it.  And they know that and the power company has no "skin in the game" anyway, they have no interest in doing that to you.
I suspect you actually have a meter-main, which provides an outside main disconnect for the fire department's convenience.  This will become Code when California adopts NEC 2020, but meantime, many municipalities already require it.  This contains both the meter and the main breaker.  It must by law have 2 separate compartments :

The meter compartment has a cover on which the power company can apply a seal.
The main-breaker compartment has a deadfront cover that bolts down, and  keeps curious fingers out of the busways and terminations.
Since it's outdoors, there must be a weather cover covering at least the main-breaker area.  This can be locked by the homeowner to stop pranksters.  (the fire department has a master key).

So maybe you misunderstand how the doors work, and saw the PoCo seal on one part of it and thought it controls the whole thing.  Perhaps the weather door is sticky or weird-to-open in some way. (some you lift the whole door straight up before it can swing, this is done to create a weather seal).
Otherwise maybe the weather door goes over the meter too, and the PoCo sealed it by mistake.  Get em out there to fix it.


What size wire should I use to feed a subpanel in my garage? My main panel has been upgraded to 100 amps.  I would like to add a subpanel in the garage which would supply:

20 amp Mig welder running on 120 volts, but later upgrade to a larger Mig welder as i am experienced at welding.
Large jointer
Medium sized table saw, which is 120 volts and 12 amps
4.5 hp portable shop vac
A sander
Branch circuits for good lighting, and 5 receptacles.

The main run from the 100 amp panel is 37 feet exactly, so what would be the ideal gauge and type of wire to use for feeding the sub-panel?

Is it a good idea to run the wire in metal conduit the whole span, since the feed goes though the basement ceiling and though a concrete wall in the most direct straight-line to the garage?.

I would like to do the job myself as I have seen the sloppy job the so called electrician did with the main panel, which passed hydro's inspection! I have taken and passed an electrical college course at my local college, I have an eye for detail and am a perfectionist.

My answer is almost always the same when talking about garage subpanels.

60 ampere double pole breaker in the main panel.
6 AWG copper wire (x4) for a run less than 75ft., 4 AWG copper wire (x4) for runs less than 150ft.
60 ampere panel with 60 ampere main breaker.

Unless you're running a whole bunch of stuff at once, a 60 amp panel should serve you well.

If you're running individual conductors, you'll definitely want to run it through conduit.  If you're using a cable assembly, you'll probably only use conduit if you have to. For example, if you have to protect the cable from physical damage, or it will be underground.


Adding Light Fixture to a Ceiling Fan I have a ceiling fan that looks like the below:

I noticed that there's a round cap in the middle of the fan.

Can I take the cap off, get a light fixture from my local Home Depot, and install it there?

Short answer: Yes, but don't.

Longer answer: You probably could lash up a light fixture there (although you would need to add a wire to those already running through the stationary shaft). The problem is that unless you use a kit made by the fan manufacturer, you are going to end up with something that you do not want hanging over the head of anyone you care about.

I was an electrical engineer for 45 years and I wouldn't do it, not without a design review committee and an extensive test program. You should install only standard equipment in your home using only approved methods.

It's not so much a matter of design and function as of testing and experience. The lighting fixtures, junction boxes, outlets, switches, etc. approved for sale in your local hardware outlet represent the cumulative experience of hundreds of thousands of skilled professionals cleaning up after millions of accidents, so that you won't have to.


How to prevent algae formation in basin pipe? In my house, I have a basin, the pipe of which is causing problems.

Background:

The pipe of this basin is connected to the same drain as the washing machine drain pipe. As a result, when the machine drains away water, due to the huge speed of water from the machine pipe, the water overflows up from the basin pipe joint. In order to fix this, I've fixed the joint with plaster of Paris, and now, water no longer comes put from the joint. But on the other hand, in order to remove the pipe, I have to literally break the plaster of Paris.

The Problem:

I'm facing a problem of algae formation in this pipe. It is algae, and not dirt, because it's forming over the mouth in the basin as well. But it is relatively easy to remove the algae from the mouth, than from the pipe.

I have already tried treating with acid, drain cleaners, and also the youtube remedies of using baking powder, vinegar and followed by boiling water. But none of the methods are able to actually remove the algae from the sides of the pipe. In the picture below, the dark parts are the algae, while the white parts are free from algae.

I've finally decided to take off the pipe tomorrow and clean it properly by hitting it against the wall in bathroom (the jerking cleans off most of the algae).

Is there anything that I can do on a periodic basis, which will prevent algae formation? It's very difficult to go through the above procedure again and again.

Two things spring to mind. Algae are green plants, so lack of sunlight is an effective deterrent. Switching that translucent white pipe out for an opaque black one or going crazy with the duct tape should help. (Ideally a smoother pipe, Ed Beal style.)

Second, potassium permanganate (KMNo4) is very effective against algae. I don't see how you'd get it to stand in the pipe long enough to do anything though. It's typically sold in either pool/spa supply houses or aquarium dealers, usually under some sort of brand name. I can't imagine it being easier to find than bleach, but it's worth a look.


Wall on subfloor is load bearing or not? So I want to remove a wall dividing my kitchen and dining room.  It is full height, so it could be load bearing.  The floor joists under it run in parallel to the wall, which leads me to think it is not load bearing.  The joists above it (i.e. the 2nd floor) run parallel to it as well.  This makes me think it is not load bearing.

Additionally, the footer of the wall is resting on the subfloor which is between two floor joists.  What I mean to say is, the wall is not sitting on any sort of support beneath it other than 5/8" ply.  It isn't directly over on of the parallel floor joists.

This really makes me think it is not load bearing.  Thoughts?

The link that BMitch left in the comments is a good guideline. The top 2 answers cover a lot of stuff to check.

All in all the best way to check, since the ceiling will need repair anyway, is to remove enough drywall to see the top plate, which is still not a sure thing even if it is a double top plate. I have seen many homes built where non bearing walls had a double top plate. The ceiling needs to be opened up all along the length you plan to remove to see if there is anything bearing on it in the way of headers supporting something on the second floor. Stranger things have happened. It does not have to be a wide opening, just up the  nearest joist that runs parallel to the wall is ample. This will also let you see ductwork or plumbing and electrical that will need to be rerouted as well.

As a mention, even non bearing walls should have a joist or two under them since the subfloor usually will dip under the load of the non bearing wall. Then yes, if it is non bearing, you will be doing the first floor a favor...


What is the right way to prevent twisting on a 8 foot gate that opens over a sloped surface? I had an 8 foot gate installed recently. The rails are pressure treated 2x4 and there are 4 hinges attaching it to a post.
We put a spring loaded wheel on the end to hold it up (it opens over a slope so a regular wheel wouldnt work), but unfortunately that is causing the gate to twist a bit (see pictures).
I was thinking of either

attaching another spring wheel on the other side, or
installing a bolt latch to at least keep it straight while closed, or
adjusting the position somehow so that the wheel is closer to the center of gravity of the gate

Whats the right way to do this?

I also think the wheel is causing the gap. There’s nothing in the structure of the gate that does a good job of resisting twisting, and I can’t think of anything you could add easily. The gate can only sag if the post leans, or the gate itself deforms. I think the diagonal beam will prevent deformation. I’d remove the wheel and beef up the post.


How do I level a sloping floor that has been tiled? We have a large room that we want to use as a bedroom and it has been tiled, over a concrete slab.  On further inspection we now realise that there is a slope of approximately 5cm from one end of the room to the other.  There are no cracks in the tiles, and I don't want to pull them up, if I can help it.  I would like to put something like timber laminate over the top, but need to level the floor first.  What can I use that will adhere to the tiles and enable me to fix laminate, or floating floor, over the top.

There's actually no need to level the subfloor to install a hardwood or laminate floor. The subfloor needs to be flat, not level. Now, leveling out the floor may have other benefits, of course. But, strictly speaking, it isn't necessary for the type of flooring you want to install.


How to mount butcher's block counter above washer/dryer? I'm redoing my laundry room, and planning to put a butcher's block style counter top above the washer and dryer.  The plan is for the counter to extend the full width of the room.
Questions:
It has to be removable to get at the back of the appliances, so I am assuming this would mean putting a ledge on both walls and mounting the countertop to the top of it (maybe with bolts that can be removed).  What kind of ledge would I need?  1x4's mounted to studs?  Would I need support in the middle, for a 6' span of 1.5" thick counter?
Does the counter need to clear the top of the washer/dryer by a specific amount?  The dryer is electric not gas.

What kind of ledge would I need? 1x4's mounted to studs?

1x4 or 2x4 for a ledger board (cleat) will work.
Yes you want them attached to at least two studs.
You do not even need to secure it to the cleats if you do not want to, It is very heavy, as long as it sized properly to not slide far enough side to side and slide off the cleat on the other end.  If you do secure it, bolts are not necessary, two L brackets on each side with small screws will be fine.

Would I need support in the middle, for a 6' span of 1.5" thick
counter?

NO. A butcher block (real hardwood) spanning 6 feet will not need center support, you could put a cleat along the back wall if you want.

Does the counter need to clear the top of the washer/dryer by a
specific amount? The dryer is electric not gas.

There is no rule about this that  i am aware of, You may want it low enough that things can not be set on the appliances and fall off the back.  Conversely, you may want enough room to reach in and shut the water supply off in an emergency.


new railings - should I use cedar or treated pine? I'm replacing the railings on a balcony and have a choice between using cedar or a pressure treated pine. The railings will be painted, so will end up looking the same in either case.

I'm looking for advice on which will last longer and give me fewer headaches in the future.

The railings are in an area that gets a lot of full, southern California sun.

The pine is less expensive, but not enough for the size of the job to matter relative to the labor involved.

The cedar looks like it has a better finish -- the pine will have to be sanded before painting.

Interior? Exterior? I'll assume exterior, since you're even considering pressure-treated wood. Cedar generally stands up to weathering considerably better than untreated pine does - hence the cedar siding & roofing all across the USA, but treated pine weathers reasonably well, too. It does like to split a little. Either will require careful priming with shellac before any painting... except you can't paint pressure-treated wood for about the first year after installation.

Last... this is for a working handrail? Based upon nothing other than the fact that a pressure-treated splinter in the hand is worlds away more painful than a cedar splinter in the hand, there's just no question: go with the cedar.


What kind of filler was used for this patio? I need to reset the pavers for this patio and I have the feeling that, by its look I have to redo the entire patio since the filler that is visible in this picture seems to have reached the end of its life cycle.

Here is a still intact area

ANd here is one of the many areas where the filler is gone

If your brick is level, and moves water away from your house, I wouldn't replace any of it. It takes a lot of time and expertise to get it to set just right, and probably isn't worth the trouble.

If you are really bent on making it look uniform, take a paint scraper, something simple you can get from your local hardware store like this.  The pointed end is great for clearing debris between bricks and the like.  Use the scraper to clean out as much of the dirt and junk from between the bricks.  You can then use a standard leveling sand (which you can also get from your local hardware store), and sweep it into the cracks.

Normally, the purpose of the sand is to fill in the cracks between the bricks to keep them from moving.  However, if you get a sand which is lighter in color, then it would probably match well.


Can I replace a ceiling light fixture with a higher wattage one? I am planning to order replacement ceiling fixtures for my 2 foyer lights. i want to make sure they will work first.  measurement wise, the dimensions seem to fit the space well.  the ones in there now are standard, came  with the new house.  in the current "mushroom" light fixture, there are two 60 Watt light bulbs.  My new fixture says it will take 100W light bulbs, 3 of them.  Does this matter that after I change out the fixture, i will utilize essentially 300W where there now are 120Watt total?

Yes it could matter your best course of action would be to determine all loads connected to that circuit and potential loads to see if the circuit will be likely to handle the additional load. Connected loads will most likely be other lights. You can either identify them and add the wattage or better turn them all on and check the amperage that breaker with a clamp on ammeter then add any general use outlets on that circuit at 180 watts each. A 15 amp circuit should not have more than 12 amps (1440 watts) continuous load a 20 amp circuit no more than 16 amps (1920 watts)


Is it safe to flush newspaper down the toilet? Recently an Australian newspaper printed several blank pages to help readers who may have run out of toilet paper.

Would it be safe to flush pieces of newspaper down the toilet?

No, that would not be safe.  If you want to use something other than regular tissue (like paper towels), you would need to dispose of it in the wastebasket.

Toilet paper is made to fall apart quickly when it gets wet and doesn't contain any chemicals that would harm a septic system or a city's sewer treatment.  Newspaper isn't the strongest paper, but it doesn't fall apart as easily and the ink and paper itself might contain harmful chemicals.


Multi point door lock security and can I use wood screws near it? I've had a break-in so looking to improve my security. I have what I believe is called a multi point lock - see pic. Basically when you lock the door there are pins at the top and bottom of the door that go into the frame, in addition to the dead bolt.

I have ordered a replacement Euro cylinder (this is in Ireland) that resists "bump" and "snap" (Avocet ABS MK3 Euro Cylinder) but was wondering if brute force was applied to the handle (say using a pipe as lever), could the lock be forced open this way?

Also, I want to add some internal bolts to the door, top and bottom. Given that the multi lock runs the entire length of the door, how near to the edge could I put wood screws in without hitting the locking mechanism? I don't want to take it out to look just in case I have problems getting it back in!

The "no screw" locations will vary from lock to lock.  The typical "multi-point lock" has 3 latches that interface with the side of the door frame like this:

As you can see, screwing anywhere at the top or bottom of the door should be fine.

If you do have a type of lock with bolts that go into the header and door sill, I would expect the "boxes" to be smaller, but still present in the area of the bolts.  Measure from the door frame to the far side of the bolt, and add 20-30mm to that for your no-screw zone.  That should put you beyond any hardware and into good solid wood.

Of course, if you can find a manufacturer for your lock set, Google it up and see if you can get a picture or installation instructions so you know exactly what to avoid.


Did my dryer stop because the ground and neutral wires were connected? The ground wire from the cord and the neutral wire from the dryer were wired together the dryer ran great for about 25 min then quit. Would that be a reason for it to stop?

Connecting ground and neutral together in an appliance is bad from a safety point of view and is likely to trip upstream GFCIs/RCDs if-any (though I don't think Americans normally have GFCIs on drier circuits) but it will not cause any problems for the appliance itself.


Washing machine drain confusion I just got a new washing machine, and am trying to figure out how to connect the drain hose to my home's 1950's plumbing. The old 1" washing machine hose ran directly from the back of the machine and was sealed to the 2" drain pipe. After doing some research, it seems that modern code dictates that the laundry drain hose have an air gap, and not be sealed to the drain pipe at all. There's also a requirement that the standpipe be 30" high, in order to prevent a leaky drain valve from emptying the machine.

My standpipe is not 30" tall, so I don't think I'll meet code without doing some plumbing re-work. In the meantime, I'm trying to figure out what my options are. The washing machine manual shows a couple of installation options, but I can't figure out what the difference between these two is:

It seems like the first picture recommends putting the washer drain hose into the 30" standpipe and leaving an air gap. The second picture looks like the exact same situation, just with a standpipe less than 30" tall - are they saying that if the standpipe isn't 30" tall, just go ahead and do the same thing anyway? Is the difference how the hose is connected to the standpipe (cable tie vs. "secured in drain opening"?).

Is hanging the drain hose from the drain hose clip a reasonable substitute to the 30" tall standpipe? So long as the drain hose rises above the water level in the washer, I don't see how the washer would be able to drain spontaneously with a leaky valve. So why the 30" requirement, if the same thing can be achieved by proper configuration of the drain hose?

Finally, the air gap itself makes me a little nervous, since if we ever have any blockage, the washing machine will drain all over the laundry room floor, rather than simply failing to drain. I know the air gap is supposed to prevent the machine fromm being siphoned, but isn't that what the downstream plumbing vent is for? The plumbing vent is sufficient to prevent the P-trap from being siphoned - even without an air gap, shouldn't it prevent the washer from being siphoned, too?

I think the diagram is trying to tell you do NOT put too much hose in the drain pipe.  If necessary, create a loop in the hose...as in the top picture...to take up the excess length of the hose.


Are they really called "linear panels"? I'm translating a Russian description of a building project, and the house in the project is partially covered with "linear panels". It turns out there's a whole large Russian article in Wikipedia about these panels - Линеарная панель.

However, there are no articles in other Wikipedias. I'm not sure that the term linear panel is a common one used in English for this type of panel, so I decided to ask here. Is it? If not, what do I call these panels?

Although the Multitran Dictionary provides the translation linear panel in English, I'm not sure, because the translation is user-submitted.

Here's one example with green "linear panels" covering a wall:

I would call it siding, and if they are made of plastic, then I would say vinyl siding. Other materials would include wood and fiber-board.


Where are this flys coming from I wake up one morning for work and I'm walking down my hallway and there were 10+ fly's on my light .I just stayed away from them because it creeped me. I took my son to school came back about an hour later they were gone. About 4:30 that night I had been cleaning and washing clothes; I saw nothing but I went to my sons bathroom and there were 6 on his light and maybe 5 on the hallway light. I went back into the kitchen where I had been cooking for the past 45 minutes no flies and there's three on my light above the sink. Ok then the next day they were still in the house same place later.

That night my husband and I had had enough. we tried killing all of them. Well, they were all gone we thought. We sat down ate dinner walk into our boys bathroom and there were 6 on the light and 3 on the hallway light and 2 in our bathroom on the other end of the house.

I done with this. Please, any ideas? It's driving me crazy.

Potted plants inside the house with soil that is not allowed to dry can be a source of small flies. Take all your houseplants outside and let them sit where they get some sun for a day or two, to dry out.

I have seen nasty maggots and flies in old sewer drains that are plugged or partially plugged, or that are left unused for long periods. Check all your drains; run hot water down through them. Check your basement if you have one.

Are your window screens and screen doors in good order? Flies will come into your house from outside during hot weather.


old wiring inside wall gets voltage when shared switch is used - safe and to code? I had someone run a constant hot to a new fan so it could operate with a remote. They left the old wiring inside the ceiling and it’s still contacted to a shared switch that operates other lights. The old wiring has nuts and electrical tape on the ends. When I turn on the lights I can see from a voltage meter that the old wires are hot. I only noticed this when I took the fan down to do some painting around the base. The wiring is inside the metal box that is part of the fan mount.

Is this safe and the correct procedure and is it to code?

Presuming that the new wire (the constant hot) run to the fan is up to code, capping off the old wires in the metal fan box is fine.

You might consider also wrapping the wire nuts with electrician's tape for good measure.


can you use a pvc pipe cutter to cut waste pipe When piping up the shower waste, it's inevitable you willl need to cut the pipe shorted at some point.

When I was training to be an electrian, I used something similar to these to cut conduit. Would I be able to use it to cut waste pipe?

Conduit is PVC. You can cut DWV pipe the same way. Be aware that that tool has a maximum diameter of 42 mm. Your shower drain may be larger than that.


How can I troubleshoot faulty carbon monoxide and fire alarms that give false positives? This is kind of an odd one. Recently, my alarms have been going off. It started a couple weeks ago where my neighbor said the carbon monoxide alarm was going off for 10-15 minutes then stopped. Last Saturday, it seemed like only one of the carbon monoxide alarms was going off, so I changed the battery and everything was fine. Last night, everything started going off, carbon monoxide and fire alarms. I unplugged all the carbon monoxide alarms in the house ( excluding the one in the basement above the boiler ).

I checked the manufacture date, January 2015. They were probably installed by the fire department when I bought the house last year.

How can I debug this? I was planning on trying to clean them and change all the batteries. I can't imagine they need to be replaced they're still too new.

You can procure carbon monoxide test gas with a known PPM (parts per million) concentration. Place your CO detector in a small plastic bag that can be sealed tight but squeeze the bag down to reduce the amount of air that is in the bag with your detector before sealing it. Spray the carbon monoxide test gas into the bag that houses the alarm and seal the bag. Wait... Without testing with a known quantity of gas you may always wonder. A short Youtube video demonstrating this can be viewed at www.coexperts.com


Can I redirect airflow from AC to under the house? I have a small 950 sq ft single floor house, with a crawl space and force air heating. I have a portable Air Conditioner that has a large Intake and Exhuast tube.

The issue is that none of the windows in the house will work with the brackets it includes. The AC recommends sliding windows to use the brackets. My windows open up out at an angle, as it's an older home.

I do not have the money to upgrade the windows yet, but I noticed in the crawl space, there are barely any ducts for heat. It appears as though it just lets the heat rise.

My question is, can I put the Exhaust tube under the floor, and the Intake on the same floor, and still run this air conditioner? Or is it an absolute requirement to keep the exhuast and intake going outside? I do notice the exhaust gets very hot after about 15 minutes of running on AC mode.

Air conditioning works by moving heat from inside the house, to the outside.  If you dump the heat under the house, it will surely find its way back in.


How to connect wood to concrete How can I attach wood to concrete in this bench?

Bolts, concrete fixing bolts, recessed, optionally plugged.
Strong glue
All the above


Can I use expanding spray foam to support a cracked bathtub? I want to use spray foam to support tub. When using foam to support cracked tub wont foam push tub up. Tub is already cracked and wont hold water.

I highly doubt that spray foam will provide much support. In addition to the tub itself, water is heavy - ~ 8 lbs./gallon - and you could easily have 50 gallons, > 400 lbs. of water in a bathtub.

Foam is great for insulation (because of the trapped air), and depending on the type of usage, can be very good for filling cracks. But unless it were specifically engineered to do so, I would not expect any consumer foam to be able to support any significant weight. If you were to fix the crack properly first (in the case of a bathtub (or anything with a liquid) foam would not normally be enough to seal the crack by itself), I would make sure there was plenty of support to prevent future movement == future cracks. Foam, in this context, is filler and not support.


Soft vs hard plywood vs two-by lumber for bed headrest Using plans to build a bed headboard which calls for 3/4" hardwood plywood (34" x 60 1/2"), which is quite pricey for a sheet. What would the main purpose of hardwood specifically be, besides being more solid? I'm wondering if I can get away with pine plywood 1/2". Will that bend too much or something? I was wondering if I could even get away with 1/4" with some horizontal 2x2's for support behind it. The cheapest option may be to instead use 2x6's for the entire headboard but I'm wondering if that will be way too heavy.

You can certainly use pine/fir plywood. It depends entirely on the appearance you're after. Pine tends to look more casual or rustic than fine hardwoods. It's also softer on the surface veneer, which is why the best furniture tends to be mahogany, oak, maple, cherry, etc.

It's not substantially less rigid, though. Hardwood plywood is usually only hardwood on the thin outer veneer. The core of a BC grade pine and hardwood plywood is usually very similar. 3/4" is plenty strong and stiff for your application. There are high-grade plywoods with very thin layers, which makes them more stiff and stable, but that's a different situation than just switching species.

Whether you can reduce to 1/2" depends on the design. It'll be less flat initially and more likely to warp over time if not supported by a rigid frame structure.


Coating a Perforated Hard board for use as Pegboard above a desk? I'm currently not in the US sonny options may be limited.

I was hoping to find a white surfaced perforated board that could be used as a peg board above a home/ office desk for organising things in a flexible way. PS: not a garage desk with tools.

I wondered if it should be painted (what kinds / how) or it could be coated with white coating sheet (paper or plastic/ vinyl kind of sticker / sheet)

I'm sharing a front & back pic of the board sample. Actual full size is 4 x 4 feet.

Thoughts/ suggestions/ options / Pros & Cons?

Front

Back

Pretty much any paint that's suitable for wood will work fine, though it will absorb a bit more readily. You'll get some raised grain with the first coat, so plan on hitting it with a sanding sponge or similar after, then let it dry well before you recoat to prevent excessive swelling. A sanding sealer might be a good idea to start if you don't mind buying multiple products.

Overlaying adhesive sheet isn't a great idea. It won't bond well and you'd have to punch out all the holes. They do make a white melamine-coated pegboard, though it sounds like it might not be available to you.


Rotted bottom of wood siding Some siding boards started to rot at the bottom. See pictures. How can it be repaired without replacing entire board?

Thanks in advance!

-Leon


4 awg wire too large for circuit breakers I need to run a long circuit out to a stock tank heater in a pasture. This is a 120V, 20 Amp line. Due to length, 4 AWG is called for to hold voltage drop within 3%.

The panel where the circuit will originate is a Siemens G2040. It appears that the 15A and 20A circuit breakers for this panel only accept a maximum size of 6 AWG.

Is it safe to run a short 2 to 4 ft length of 6 AWG wire and connect that to the 4 AWG wire?

-- Update - please see my answer below.

I would go to 240V power instead of thick wire

First I would contact the manufacturer of the heater and see if they make a 240V version instead of 120V. Then I would run it as a 240V circuit instead of 120V, at what is typically half the amps.

When you double the voltage and halve the amps, useful power is the same, but you reduce losses by a factor of 4.  Which means you can go down 6-8 sizes in wire on a long run like this.  Plug it into a voltage drop calculator and you'll see.


Catalytic Carbon or Birm for iron removal I took a water test that has the following results: (acceptable standard in parenthesis).

Total hardness: 100ppm (<50ppm)
Alkalinity: 120ppm (<180ppm)
pH: 7 (6.5-8.5)
iron: 5+ ppm (<.3ppm)

I'm trying to figure out which filter system would be best to get between Catalytic Carbon or Birm.
I can't really find reviews on either, but they both look like they would get the job done.

Catalytic Carbon
Centaur catalytic carbon is a specially prepared carbon made by the Calgon corporation, for the removal of hydrogen sulfide and iron from well water, or chloramines from municipal tap water. Makes a great “whole house” filter for general city water use, especially where chloramines are used, and works well with oxidizers like air and chlorine for sulfide or iron removal. This filter costs more than the standard GAC filter above because catalytic carbon is quite expensive.

```Birm
Birm is a medium specially prepared for iron removal. It has the ability to oxidize iron, and can remove small amounts of iron without pre-treatment, but it works best following aeration. It is also effective at manganese removal. The pH must be 6.8 or above for birm to work properly.

Note: Birm should not be used on chlorinated systems.```

From the write-ups, it sounds to me like Birm is a better iron remover, but I don't want to just guess at it.
The water is coming from a well and tastes like a jar of liquid pennies.
We had a previous iron filter that wasn't designed to take out this much iron, but after adding an additional filter after it, it did take out the iron to the point where it wasn't detectable, so I know it can be filtered. That iron filter died... probably because it wasn't designed for this much iron.

Either filter system I get will have an aerator before it to oxidize the iron.

I ended up getting something with Iron Rival Light media.
After researching a bit, and finding something that I don't remember the name, but it was created in Germany and said to work better than Filox, Birm or Carbon; but it led me to a company selling a filter with this media and it has this write-up:

  Iron Rival Light is a revolutionary new light weight
  iron treatment media that is best described as a cross between Birm
  and Filox. As such, it shares the best characteristics of both media.
  Being a coated media and light weight, Iron Rival light is easier to
  backwash - it requires less flow rate to backwash and it does not need
  to be done as often as Filox. Yet, the coating and volume of active
  ingredient (10% manganese dioxide) is much greater than that of Birm,
  resulting in longer media life and increased performance. Iron Rival
  Light has a recommended pH level of 6.0 to 9.0 and effectively
  removes, iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide.

After getting it setup, the water is coming out completely clean!


A/C electric, heater gas I have my A/C set to 82, by 3pm or later temp is 88-89. Does having the pilot lit on heater cause A/C to not work properly?

Absolutely not.  Merely having the pilot light on doesn't make enough heat to overheat a house.

Your cooling problem is probably

a) Problems with the A/C unit, e.g. low refrigerant or clogged condenser.

b) hot weather beyond the design basis of the system

c) a design basis that's too small for your tastes

d) something you are doing that's making a lot of heat.  E.g. cooking, baking, running a clothes dryer, printing on a laser printer, running a gaming PC, etc.

How do we test these things?

a) A/C problems: have the unit inspected.

b) Extremely hot weather: check the weather history.

c) Too small for home:  Have someone evaluate the size of the A/C that your home should have, preferably without seeing the unit you have now, as that could bias their recommendation.

I myself prefer units "on the large side" - that way I am free to turn it off when I'm away, without worrying about it struggling to catch up when I do turn it on.  Turning it off when you're away saves a lot of energy, though many people will not admit it.

d).  Other loads: Most are electric.  Find the electric meter.  There will be a spinning disc which changes speed based on your usage -- or a digital equivalent, that you may have to push a button or wait a few seconds to see.  Learn how to read this momentary rate of usage.  When the A/C is straining, run out and check its speed.  Then turn off the A/C and check it again.  It should nearly stop.  If it's still moving at a good clip, you are making heat inside your house, which is obviously fighting the A/C.


Should I be concerned that water is pooling when ground is dug near the foundation? My house is approximately 7~8 years old, and we bought it newly built. The foundation is mainly clay, and I live in a relatively dry environment (Calgary, Alberta, Canada). It is a walkout house, so there is a slight grade away from my house.

Recently, I dug some post holes for a deck near the house, and 3 or 4 feet down, water began pooling (approximately 20~30cm deep). This was following an infrequent, but repetitive rain lasting about a day at one time.

The question is, is it natural for that much water to form that shallow and close to the house foundation? I was not conscious of the issue until lately, and understood the importance of lowering downspouts during the rainy season.

Is this a concern, and if so, what can be done to remedy the issue?

Water isn't "forming" -- the hole is either catching rain, or the water table really is that high in that area. Dry surface doesn't necessarily mean dry underground, if there's a layer of stone or clay that's keeping it from easily soaking deeper, or if you happen to be in the path of drainage from farther up a hill.

For new construction I would hope that the builders were aware of local conditions and did something appropriate with the foundation. I presume that your builders are subject to the same kinds of inspections those in the US are, and here I don't think they're allowed to fill in the ground around the foundation until it has been approved.

I think your choices are either to trust that, or to hire someone to carefully excavate alongside the foundation, look at what was done, and tell you whether it's properly designed or not.

Personally, unless you have reason to worry, I wouldn't.


Artex bubbling repair I've got some Artex (it's been tested and isn't the bad, asbestos containing kind) on my external wall. There's a large patch as you can see where it's bubbled up and come away from the wall.
Is there any way of patching this or repairing it? We're planning on extending the house in a year or two so this whole wall will come down, so I don't want to have to do anything major but I just want to tidy it up a bit. Any advice welcome.

First, you must address the cause of the separation/bubbling or it will happen again after you repair. Damage like this is typically caused by moisture, which could be caused by a leak, improper ventilation, insulation gap or improper moisture barrier and is likely on the inside of that wall. This doesn't look like a basement concrete wall but moisture is common on these and difficult to resolve, often involving drainage and waterproofing repair from the exterior. Visual inspection of a drywall wall can often miss important clues, you could try a moisture meter or look above (attic) and below (basement) this spot for clues what could be going on inside.
Once the source of the moisture is resolved, patching drywall is fairly straightforward but matching texture is much more difficult. You'll have best results if you're able to determine and duplicate the original application method and practice on a scrap piece of drywall. Ceilings are often textured in similar ways so videos detailing ceiling texture repair may help if you've never done this before.


How firm is this connection? I have three hot wires connected together. They are held together by electrical tape and a wire nut. The tape goes around the bare copper and then the nut goes on top of the tape. Then there's more tape on the nut.

Previously, I had done it just by putting a wire nut on first and then using tape as extra security. However, when we pressed on the nut, something apparently shorted as lights started flickering.

I could twist the wires and then put a nut on but I have a hard time gripping the wires with my hands (they move while I'm trying to twist it which results in failure).

Tape under the nut isn't the right way to do it.

Read the instructions on your wire nuts they may or may not require that the wires be pre-twisted. I get the ones that don't require pre-twist, line the conductors up so the ends are even, and twist the nut on. Give each individual wire a tug and if any pulls out, start over again.

Sometimes I just can't get the wire nut to twist on and make a tight connection. In that case I line up the ends of the wires and pre-twist them with lineman's pliers. In order to get a good twist I've had to resort to using my needle-nose vice grips across the three wires to hold them in place while I get a twist started with the lineman's pliers (if you do something like this, be careful not to damage the insulation where you grip the wires).

Of course, this all assumes you're using a correctly sized wire nut. Read the instructions on the packaging and there should be a capacity chart for your particular wire nuts.


Drywall texture used? Can someone please help me identify the texture in this picture?
I’ve been patching a few holes around the house and cannot get the texture to match no matter what I do!
Notice how’s very little texture if any against the wood framing (by window and doors).
I’d appreciate any insight, thanks

That doesn't look like drywall texture to me. It looks like stippling from a heavy-nap roller. The reason you don't see it along the trim is because a brush was used there.
When you paint, do the brush edging, then immediately roll over it as close as you can to the trim. This will minimize the smooth strip.


Is there a universal colour code for screw bits? Lately I've been seeing colour coded screw bits, like in the set below (from Lidl's store brand, Powerfix).

(Click for larger version)

Red for Phillips head
Blue for Pozidriv
Orange for slotted
Yellow for Torx
Pink for hex

Is this colour code universal? Or do other brands / manufacturers use different codes?

The colour codes are NOT universal. There is no agreed upon universal colour code for colouring bits (to my knowledge).

I have found that each brand (mostly) follows their own colour coding. Powerfix uses the colours you describe, and some brands, either intentionally or otherwise, use the same colours as other brands.

But mostly, they do not. For example, Halfords uses

Blue: Philips
Yellow: Pozidriv
Red: Flat
Green: Torx

While Wera uses

Red: Phillips
Black: Pozidriv
Green: Torx
Blue: hex
Yellow: flat

And then if all the tools in a set are the same, e.g. hex keys, Wera uses colours for the sizes instead.


Problem wiring a 3-way lamp switch I just bought a new 3-way lamp switch/socket to replace an old one that had burned out, along with 2 new 3-way bulbs.  I'm almost certain I installed it correctly (ribbed - neutral, smooth - hot) but its only lighting at the medium level. I tried both bulbs with the same result.  Is it a bad switch/socket or is there something else I should be trying?

Yes, try another three-way lamp.

Three-way lamps have two filaments. One on for low, the other on for medium,and both on for high.

The screwshell is the neutral and the center button and outer ring are energized together for high. If you have a voltage tester, with the lamp switch on high,  you can carefully test from the center button to the outer shell. And then test from the ring to the outer shell. If you get 120 volts both times the switch is good. If not replace the switch.

If the switch is good it must be a bad lamp.

Good luck and stay safe!


Will Galvanized Steel React with this Ductwork? I plan to use a galvanized steel patch on this ductwork. Will it react with this ductwork? I'm not sure what it is made out of. Is this ductwork galvanized steel? It's ductwork from a house built in 1967.

Yes. What you have there is also galvanized steel. The older galvanization process resulted in a larger color pattern than modern electroplating sometimes does, but it's the same beast. Patch away.


Has the DPC (damp proof course) failed if moisture is showing above paint? We have just purchased our first house (hooray) and uncovered a few gremlins the home buyers report failed to pick-up.

There was some damp on the wall behind a sofa in one room (which failed to get noticed by surveyor) and in the corner of the same room.

We had a damp expert visit and hack-away at the plaster, apply DPC, lay a water-proof paste (bitchumin). Wait 1 week to dry then plaster over.

However the problem lies in the corner of the room (external wall) where moisture is still visible, almost forming where the DPC injections were placed.
Now i'm not sure whether this is the silicone of the DPC seeping through onto the painted surface, or whether damp/rainwater is slowly still seeping in from the corner (the damp in the corner was mild before).

Any advice is appreciated!

HP

Photo below

DPC is a water-impermeable horizontal layer, typically a type of plastic sheet, that you would find between two courses of masonry at the foot of a wall above outside ground level (e.g. one or two bricks above outside ground level). Its job is to prevent water rising by capillary action through the masonry etc from the wet ground below.

Obviously if the DPC is damaged or defective, it is usually not feasible to demolish the wall to rectify the DPC, so there are treatments which inject waterproofing material into the wall.

I am surprised that a vertical section of the wall corner has been treated - but I've not had this problem so can't be sure that is abnormal.

If that is an external corner, I would go outside and check that there is nothing outside bridging the DPC - like a heap of earth against the wall.

I would buy a damp test meter to determine if the discolouration is due to damp.

If it is the damp expert's treatment leaching through - and he didn't warn you this was likely - I'd consider asking them for advice and/or to rectify the problem.


How Should I Store Antique Furniture? I have some fairly large/heavy antique wood furniture (ranging from 30-90 years old) that I need to store in an in-ground unfinished basement, potentially for a few years.  At the moment it's mainly wrapped in moving blankets (and disassembled into manageable pieces, of course).  But I'm unsure of the long-term viability of that with regard to protecting the furniture.

What should I do to store this in such an environment?  Temperature and humidity will range throughout the year (and when the dryer's running), some smoke from the fireplace makes it way down there, and of course there's a potential for insects.  Is there a particular way to wrap it (specific material/method of wrapping) and store it such that it's protected from these potential dangers?

From my personal experience I would suggest finding another place to store it. The big issue is excess humidity that will soften the glue especially on the older pieces. Veneers will start to lift and mold will grow. If you must store it in the basement run a dehumidifier year round, in the winter it most likely won't run often. In the summer it will likely run continuously. Unless you have a wood stove in the basement or live in a very dry area lack of humidity shouldn't be an issue.


How can I repair a wall with cracked paint? My tenant for my single family house, built in 1947 in Northern California, is complaining about cracks in the paint in various places throughout the house. They aren't huge cracks, and the paint isn't falling off, but he finds them unsightly. I'm thinking of simply sanding, using joint compound, sanding again, primer, and paint. Anybody have any other thoughts? Here are a few photos:

If it was built in 1947, there's a decent chance there's lead paint there. That means you can't sand it. I would buy a lead testing kit to make sure (they're readily available online and in some stores. If it is, you'll need to take some precautions first or call a professional removal company.

Provided there's no lead, you might want to go with a no-shrink vinyl spackle instead of straight joint compound. I've found it cracks less. Sanding and spackling should do the trick. I'd go a primer route as well. Will give you better coating over the old paint.


Wiring Pool Subpanel for Pump and Receptacles The project is to wire a sub-panel and three pool circuits. My 400A main panels (2) are about 35' away, and I don't have room inside the basement to mount the sub panel inside. I plan to use an Intermatic PE20000 60A outdoor load center (or a fancier PE25065RC that includes remote controls), and I will mount this on the outside of the house about 40' from the main panels. The load center will have three circuits to feed a 1.65HP 230V variable speed pump and two (2) 15A receptacle circuits (lighting & convenience).

Misc:

Location is Virginia
14'x33' fiberglass in-ground pool located ~40' from house and sub-panel
Hayward SP2303VSP pump (230v variable speed)
No heater or other powered equipment
Lighting circuit will supply (2) 12v transformers for (2) LED pool lights
Convenience receptacle is required within 20' of the pool edge

I would appreciate any guidance on the following:

Main panel:

30A 2-pole GFCI

Sub panel (Intermatic PE20000):

15A 2-pole breaker (non GFCI) (pump)
15A 1-pole (non GFCI) (lighting recept)
15A 1-pole (non GFCI) (convenience recept)
Non-bonded neutral and ground
No additional ground rod

Wire from main to sub:

(4) #10 THWN-2 copper stranded (~40' runs)

Wire from sub to circuits:

(3) 12' #10 THWN-2 copper stranded from sub panel to 230v pump (L1, L2, ground) in watertight conduit (#10 to future proof the wire)
(3) 60' #14 THWN-2 copper stranded from sub panel to 120v lighting receptacle (L, N, ground) via 3/4 schedule 80 PVC
(3) 100' #14 THWN-2 copper stranded from sub panel to 120v convenience receptacle (L, N, ground) via 3/4 schedule 80 PVC
All 3/4" schedule 80 conduit buried at 18"

Equipotential bonding: ~300' of #8 THWN-2 copper solid (bare) with equipotential connections to:

3' horizontal under pool coping/pavers around pool perimeter
deep end stainless steel ladder anchor plate
230v pump ground (it's not double-insulated)
bonding electrode within PVC at pool filter
not bonded back to the sub panel

Specific questions:

Is the #14 THWN-2 feed from sub panel to 230v pump sufficient (10FLA)? Consensus is yes per the pump manual
Are the #14 THWN-2 20A circuit feeds sufficient for those lengths (90 deg THWN-2 #14 copper should be 25A)? Consensus is yes
Does my #8 solid equipotential ground need to connect back to the sub-panel, or is the connection at the pump sufficient to tie back to the main ground? Not back to the subpanel - just to the pump.

Any recommendations for making things cleaner?

Wire from main panel to subpanel is protected by the breaker in the main panel.  So its size is decided by the breaker.

30A means 10AWG Cu
40A means 8 AWG Cu
60A means 6 AWG Cu / 4 AWG Al
70A means 4 AWG Cu
80A means 3 AWG Al

All these numbers for <100A feeders come out of table 30.15(b)(16) working out of the 60C column because of NEC 110.14(C)(1)(a). Nobody is going to recommend working out of the 90C column, and the inspector is unlikely to approve it.

Additionally, #10 Cu wire will be limited to 30A because of 240.4(D)(7).

You are welcome to use  #14 copper wire to lighting or convenience receptacle branch circuits.  It must be breakered at 15A due to 240.4(D)(3).

If you want to breaker it at 20A, then use either #12 copper or #10 aluminum.

Although 240.4(D)(6) allows 25A on #10 aluminum on receptacle branch circuits, use of a breaker other than 15 or 20A is outlawed by Table 210.21(B)(3).

Your expectation of being able to work out of the 90C column is weird.  That's generally not allowed.  Generally in <100A circuits you must work with the abovementioned table, plus

15A means 14 AWG Cu.
20A means 12 AWG Cu.

There is an exception in Code for certain large motor loads on dedicated circuits, which allows an enlarged breaker.  This is to avoid nuisance trips and has nothing to do with wire thermal rating, to which 240.4 still applies.  One of us is an expert on this clause and hopefully will discuss it.   However, using this exception draws a lot of heat from inspectors and you will often need to defend the choice.

However, 110.3(B) still bears force: If the labeling or instructions for the motor, breaker or panel requires the larger wire, you must use it; end of subject!

I personally would use EMT conduit for distribution past the subpanel.  I also think use of #14 is a mistake.

As things are, you will need to buy 6 wire sizes and colors:  Black, white and green #12; and black, white and green #14.  That's six spools, what a waste of money! I use EMT conduit and would buy only black and white #12. EMT provides the ground. Actually, I own 10 colors of #12 and no #14.  The price difference 12-14 isn't worth it.

Lastly, it is far past time to talk about GFCI.  GFCI protecting the pump would not be a bad idea.  The other circuits require it.  You may be reluctant to protect the pump since the cost of all these GFCIs is really stacking up.  However you can protect them all with one GFCI device:  Either

a GFCI breaker in the main panel that feeds the subpanel (about $90) or
a "hot tub" subpanel which includes GFCI protection onboard.  Obviously it will need enough spaces to support the pump and lighting/recep circuits.  One option is a 2-space "hot tub" subpanel that supports a quadplex breaker.  (not all brands do).


Covering / Cap over DWV vent pipe I've eliminated a DWV vent pipe during a bathroom remodel (consolidated fixtures and went from 2 vents to 1) but I don't want to mess with roof patching/repairing if I were to undo the penetration of the unused vent pipe through the roof. The vent is 2" galvanized steel pipe, could I put a rubber cap over it ("furnco"?), or would that deteriorate quickly in the sunlight?

Additionally, for the remaining 4" cast iron vent, I'd like to put some sort of cap or hat over the pipe that sticks out of the roof, to prevent the fir needles and other leaves from entering the vent pipe and clogging it up. This was a problem I noticed when reworking the vent stack, there was a large mass of fir needles at the first elbow in the vent. What would this cap/hat be called? I've tried searching around but I don't see anything that is like what I need...

If you have access to the underside of the roof, removing the pipe and reconstructing the roofing is not difficult.   Such a repaired roof is much less likely to leak than with the pipe sticking through over the years.

By the number of steps, this might seem daunting, but each is very simple and an intuitive step in a lasting, trouble-free repair.

The basics are removing the bad stuff, repairing the hole, and renewing the roofing to make it weather tight.

After removing the pipe and flashing, clean up the hole through the roof decking, possibly called cladding or sheathing, (assuming the roof is not wooden shake or shingles) by cutting through with a hand saw, jig saw, or judicious use of a circular saw and make the hole rectangular (if not already).
Working from underneath, cut a piece of plywood of the same thickness as the decking to fit inside the hole to make a filler piece for the decking/sheathing/cladding.
Create support for the filler piece by cutting some more plywood, or a 1x4 (maybe two) to fit snugly between the roof joists and fasten into place by screwing/nailing through the joists into the plywood or board supports.
Topside, fasten the decking filler to the supporting layer:  construction glue, short nails, or screws.  It just needs to be strong enough to shrug off walking on the roof.
Peel back and remove a row or two of roofing to access the tar paper and make it so a nice new piece of roofing fits cleanly.  At the up-slope edge of the row above, try to loosen and remove the roofing nails holding the shingles with a wide flat-blade screwdriver or thin pry bar instead of simply ripping the roofing material.  If there is more than one layer of shingles (up to three layers are allowed), forget going for the tar paper:  instead, make some "roofing filler" with scrap shingles and fill in the hole in the roofing to make a consistent support surface for the "finish layer" of roofing.
Obtain new tar paper and roof shingles.  Probably you will have to buy roofing in units of 33 square feet (1/3 of a "square") and tar paper in obscenely long rolls.  It might pay to go to a local hardware store to see if they will sell it by the foot.  Maybe you want to use it up a whole package of roofing by replacing more of the roofing.  If so, remove roofing up to the first ridge or peak.
If the old tar paper is exposed, Add new tar paper by tucking it under shingles above and at sides and lightly tacking it down with a few short staples.  Cut off the excess, but keep 6 inches over the lower row of shingles (down to just above the tar strip).
Working from the bottom, follow the existing pattern of shingle placement and overlap.  Usually each row is 1/3 to 1/2 offset of the width of a shingle to stagger the side joints (to protect it by the next row above).  Place nails 1/2 inch upslope from the tar strip (black goo stuff near the middle of the shingle).  A maximum of three nails per shingle is all that is needed.  The next row will add up to three more nail fastenings which is plenty of holding power.  The black goo will melt on the next hot day to secure the shingles together.
At the top where the new roofing joins the existing, slide the new roof shingles under the existing row and gain access to the nailing strip by gently lifting and curling the lower edge of the row above it.  Nail carefully.
If there is any doubt about an exposed seam, use a suitable roof patch caulk.  If doing this during cold weather and it will not be warm before the next wind storm, it might be worth judicious use of a torch (directed flame) to heat the lower edge of the shingles to get them to stick together a little.  Given time, they will adhere on their own adequately.


When is a table top too heavy for just four legs? I'm making a coffee table out of an old bowling alley lane and it's 4'x18".  I wish I knew exactly what it weighed but it is heavy.  It's too heavy for me to move without dragging it - although I'm not very strong.  My partner can move it down the stairs with a lot of effort.

So my question is that I wanted to use tube legs or hairpin legs but it would leave the entire centre of the table open - and it is heavy.  Should I have additional legs in the middle?  Or should I trust the wood?

I do of course have horizontal bars to keep the wood from sagging towards the middle horizontally (?) but I'm worried it will sag towards the middle length-wise.

Sure it's heavy, but it's also stiff, unless it's in terrible condition. You say 4' x 18" - if a typical bowling alley lane (even a "used up" one) it's also 2-1/2" - 4" thick - isn't it? Solid maple, nailed and/or glued up from 3/4" x 4" strips on edge, typically; then sanded down for resurfacing until it's too thin or the business goes out of business.

In short, if the legs will hold the load, 4 is quite adequate - you can probably both stand on the middle of the table, too (again, assuming the legs are up to the task) without appreciable deflection. I would not advise that, but only because the legs and attachment of the legs may not be up to the task - the slab/top should be fine with it.


Is it safe/energy efficient to surround hydronic baseboard heaters with a wooden enclosure? I recently replaced some wood panelling with drywall, leaving my hydronic baseboard heaters free standing with no brackets or metal surrounding them. I was thinking that instead of putting a metal cover over them, I could build a slotted wooden enclosure that I would paint white to blend in with the baseboard trim.

Would I lose any energy efficiency by doing this? Is there a reason they are always made of metal?

Metal is used because it is a LOT cheaper than a wood cover.

You can use wood covers, but you have to leave the top open to allow heat to escape (or have a grill). Also, you probably should make the opening at the top somewhat wider than with a metal cover. I would probably put a strip of metal on the inside of the baseboard to protect the wood from heat. The design is kind of like this:

If I did this I would also drill a lot of holes in the bottom of the outboard part of the heating frame or leave a good-size vent at the bottom somehow. You want to maximize the airflow. Cold air entering bottom, gets heated, exits through top grille.


What size electric service do I need? My son and I are building a house at the beach. I currently have a 100 amp temp service and my question is “can I get everything I need on the service to pass code if I keep it at 100 or 125Amps”?

The inspector is telling me that I can only use 80% or 80 amps if I keep the box at 100 amps but that doesn’t seem right because the load center that I bought has a 100 amp main breakers and 145amps worth of branch breakers that came with it when I bought it new.

I have been reading the NEC codes and the way I understand it I need 2ea 20 Amp 120 circuit plus 1ea 50 Amp 240 circuit for the kitchen, 30 Amps 240 for heating and I have an AC unit that runs off of 20 Amps 240. Which adds up to 110 Amps before I do an outlet or light circuit so I must be figuring this wrong.

Should I be figuring by watts or volts instead?

My advice would be to install the largest service that you can get regardless of how much you plan on using in the short term. 200amps is pretty typical for a lot of residential areas in North America.  Reasons:

In most residential areas, you pay for what you use, not overall capacity
There might not be capacity on the transformer later when you need it
Replacing the feeder cables can be very expensive
Replacing the meter and panel later is expensive
You won't have to worry about it again

Years ago, a lot of houses only had 60amp service.  Consumption increased for a while especially with the increase in electronics and lighting, but now with LED, it looks like it might be going the other way again.

Also consider what amenities you might add later.  A pool, hot tub and second kitchen can easily put you over capacity if only have a small service.


Can I use primers from different paint companies in the same room? I have two partial cans of older primer along with a full can of new primer. I'm going to paint a room. Can I use all of the primer cans for the project, or should I only use the same primer throughout?

If it's latex primer, watch the smell - or just throw it out.

Especially now with the low-VOC regulations, mold or fungus can get growing in a can of water-based paint or primer. It creates a horrible smell (but one easily attributed to "the expected stink of paint".

You don't find out until after you've painted a wall that the smell isn't leaving. Ever.  It will then defy every possible effort to seal it in, cover it up, etc.  Now you have to remove it all. What a job!  These nightmares have ended with people having to tear the drywall off the wall.

Primer's job is to create a uniform surface

So that the topcoat will behave the same all over the room - be an equally appropriate surface for paint, absorb the same, sheen the same, and have its color print through the same.  Otherwise if you painted a checkerboard wall, the checkerboard would still be printing through after 2-3 topcoats.

So you want to arrange the primer job so that the final primer coat is essentially the same throughout the room.  Whatever sequence of use makes that work best, that's what you do.   If the characteristics of the three products are similar enough, that may be enough.

Mix products together? Not without factory consultation

Because even if they are the same type (alkyd vs latex) they may not be compatible chemically.


Mini-split HVAC in new build? Next few weeks I will be in the process of getting quotes for mini-split HVAC system. Curious, if anyone has gone ductless and if so, how is that working out?

The house will be a a two story build(Buffalo area): main floor with an office and a living/dining/kitchen, and a 2nd floor with 4 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms. We will be insulating the foundation, the attic and spray foam the cavities. There will be two fireplaces(master bedroom and living room) that will be actively utilized during winter. All bathrooms will have heated floors and towel warmers.

By looking at the drawings It looks like 8 head mini-split should be sufficient to cover the whole area: 1 head x each bedroom(4), 1 head in the upper hall(cooling lower hall too), 1 cassette in the dining/living/kitchen area, 1 head in the office and 1 cassette in the basement.

Few areas of concern are:

Heating: Given that last few years have been somewhat cold in Buffalo, how good are heat pumps w/mini-slits at keeping the place warm? I've been reading that heat pumps may not be a way to go if outside temperatures are below -15c.

AC/cooling: What would be the best way to cool the bathrooms? Besides proper ventilation, cold air from the heads wont have direct way into the bathrooms so I am a bit concerned with not having a "sauna" during +35c days. I think an air handler or a ducted mini split zone may be a solution for the smaller spaces?

Electricity: how much would such system consume comparing to conventional forced air HVAC systems?

We'll do a heat load calculation before going any further but I just wanted to get some head start and some input.

I recently had the same question when building a home in N. Alabama for a relative. I asked all local HVAC contractors about it and they all recommended against it for two reasons. 1) cost 2) reliability. They stated their typical installs require replacement in 6-8 yrs. They did state, however, that they were a good option for things such as small additions or bonus rooms above garages where upsizing the main system would be difficult or expensive due to additional ducting requirement.  I am surprised any heat-pumps would be sold in climates as cold as yours. They might maintain temps but I am certain one would never truly feel warm in a heat-pump heated home with temperatures THAT cold. Here in the deep south, I set my dual-fuel unit to switch to propane at ~30 deg. I would freeze to death if that cut-over were at -15!


Was this damage to my ceiling caused by heat from a water heater vent? I want to know if this is normal. See attached photo. Can a water heater vent create this much heat?  It would appear that the garage ceiling all around my hot water heater vent is being burned by excessive heat-  even the textured plaster is falling down!!

This is common in water heater vents.  That goes up and eventually goes through the roof.  If installed properly the roof vent should last a long time and not leak, but... stuff happens.  They leak from time to time, and the leaking water will simply run down the pipe until it hits that drywall you see.

The yellowing isn't from being burned, is just dirty water seeping through the drywall which then loosens the texture on the ceiling.

So, you have a roof leak, not a faulty water heater.


Is it load bearing? Weird attic config thanks for taking a sec to read. I just bought a small house in which the ceiling joists in the Attic seem to change from east to west to north to south. I am wanting to remove part of a wall in which runs north to south with the north to south joists.

however, there is this interesting setup seen in the picture below that makes me think it may be bearing some sort of load even though it is running parallel with the joists.

If you see the tape measure is on top of this v configuration that lies on to of the north south beams

The wall runs in between the two 2x4s in the pic below right under the cross beam.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Wow, that is one of the most complicated structural “systems” I’ve ever seen. It’s not clear to me exactly which wall you want to remove.

It does appear that the diagonal supports were installed to rest on several ceiling joists in order to help distribute the roof load. Clearly, the ceiling joists were not originally intended to support the roof...they are too small. In addition, the ceiling supports do not align with the roof supports (joists).

The diagonal supports seem to have been randomly placed and the vertical supports are not installed in any pattern or system either.

I’d recommend that you hire an architect or a structural engineer, but that could be expensive because they’ll need to spend some time tracking down the roof loads and determining how they are transferred to the footings.

You could check under the wall that you want to remove and see if there is a footing under the wall (or close to the wall).  If there is, it could indicate the wall is a bearing wall.

If it is a bearing wall, you can still remove it...you’ll just need to add a header and support posts.


Basement walls above grade are wet outdoors My basement walls are wet above grade on the outside of my house, does anyone know what's causing this? This is after a night of rain and after everything getting mostly dry.

Inside unfinished and mostly dry but I do have an active french drain system.

I'd like to finish my basement but working to fix all the water problems first.

There could be two issues: 1) moisture dripping off the building paper under the siding, or 2) moisture entering the masonry cells.

1) We install building paper (moisture barrier) under exterior siding because we know the siding will leak. Well, that moisture needs to run out at the bottom of the wall. If the siding is leaking really badly above this area for some reason, all that moisture could run out long after a storm and “wet” the wall.

2) If you look closely at the interior block wall, you’ll notice some discoloring (darker areas) aligned vertically. This indicates moisture is getting into the cells and filling with water. (Masonry blocks are hollow and often not filled with grout when the wall is constructed.)  This allows moisture in the ground to seep into the concrete block cells. (Yes, masonry block is porous.)

Also, if the window in the first picture is the same window in the interior picture, then these moisture spots align perfectly. This could mean the cell is “full” of water.

Heat will “draw” moisture out of a wall. (That’s why paint on south facing walls blister more than other walls.) So, where the cells have moisture, the sun could draw the moisture out and cause the discoloration.

I’d:  1) check to see if moisture is running out from behind the siding by rolling a few paper towels up and stuffing them up under the bottom of your siding at the wet area AND at the dry areas. Then compare after a storm, 2) Dig down a few feet at the wet spot and see if the moisture barrier on the outside of the basement wall is damaged. I’d also make sure the material (soil) is porous so the moisture can “flow” away from your wall. If it’s not, I’d replace with drain rock. (Round river rock without fines...no rocks smaller than 1/2” dia.) Worse case: you’ll need to install a French drain to carry the moisture away from the wall.

Regardless of where the moisture is coming from, I would NOT finish the interior until you find and stop the moisture because it will cause mold.

...but I don’t understand what is happening at the top of your wall inside. Is that insulation?


Move gas oven away from wall We are painting the wall behind our gas oven today, and we'd like to pull the oven forward a couple inches to be able to paint behind the oven a little bit.

The oven is on a wood floor so I'm hesitant to brute force pull it forward because I don't want to damage the floor.

Also, I'm not sure of the safety of doing this.  The oven is about 9 years old and I would think the gas line is flexible, but I'm not sure.

Any tips for moving the oven or should we just skip it and paint around the edges as best we can?

Old bath towels work very well to protect floors if you double or quad fold them. Lift on the front of the kitchen range unit to get the towel in under the front feet or base.

Then slide out the range unit the few inches needed. It can actually be helpful to have one person pulling out on the top back of the range (which transfers the weight of the unit onto the front feet or base) whilst at the same time have another person tug on the end of the towel stack to help nudge the range out from the wall.

When you have the unit pulled out is also a good opportunity to inspect and clean the area behind the range.


Is there a dimmer to control both incandescents and LEDs at the same time? My church has the Sanctuary lights on a dimmer switch. The fixtures currently have 200 Watt incandescent bulbs. As those bulbs burn out, we would like to replace them with the equivalent in an LED bulb. We know we will need a new dimmer switch, but is there a dimmer that will work with both types of bulbs throughout the fixtures at the same time?

Consider:  A tungsten bulb typically has a 2000 hour life span.  A 200 watt bulb will use 400 kWh of electricity in it's life span.  If you are at a typical 12c/kWh rate that means $48 worth of electricity over it's life, many times the cost of the bulb.

How much are you saving by delaying the replacement?


Two ducts Blowing hot air, 4 ducts blowing cold air I have a 4 ton unit on a simple 3 BR 1 bath one story house.

On the plenum I have a 12" metal duct supplying the living room, 10" metal supplying dining room and kitchen (2 vents off the same line), 10" metal ducts (2 vents off the same line) supplying 2 bedrooms, 9" flex duct for the 3rd bedroom, and 7" flex duct for the bathroom.

When the heat is on, the air coming out of the 12" metal in the living room and the 10" in the dining room and kitchen is extremely warm >90 deg.

However, the air out of the 10" metal for the 2 bedrooms and the 2 flex ducts is cold <65 deg.

All of the heating elements are good.

Connections at the plenum are snug (even had the plenum rebuilt).  No discernible difference in air pressure from the vents in any room.

I've had several A/C repair specialists out and everyone seems stumped.

It's difficult for me to get my head around b/c all of the air entering the plenum is roughly equally warm having passed over the heating coils right?

There's no leak in the ducts and even if there was it'd be quite a coincidence since the vents blowing cold air are on 3 separate lines (7" flex, 9" flex, 10" metal).

The house is basically rectangular and the plenum sits in the middle of the attic.  The hot air vents are north, the 2 flex ducts (cold air) are east and west of the plenum and the 10" metal cold air blowing duct runs south off the plenum.

Any ideas?

Could you add some pictures of the furnace and connected duct work. Are The duct sizes you list round ducts? How long are the ducts from the furnace to the register connections?  Are the ducts insulated? Where are you located since a 4 ton A/C unit is quite large for  a 3 bedroom 1 bathroom house. I would have guessed a 2 to 2 1/2 ton unit would be large enough.


When half laping two 6x6s, what is the optimal length and ratio? Joining two 10 ft 6x6s of dry pressure treated with half lap joint (not tapered) and 3/8" lag bolts with washers (not machine bolts).
For strength, what is the optimal length of half lap and what is the optimal ratio of thicknesses?
Would it be different for 4x4s?

In a "half" lap joint, the thickness should always be half of the material for the most strength.  You're reducing the strength of the board because you're removing thickness, and the joint will only be as strong as the weakest piece.  If you made the thickness ratio 25%/75%, then the 25% side would be the weakest.

Lap joints are used often for 90 degree joints, and in this case, the length of the joint is equal to the width of the board so all the edges match up.  In a end-to-end joint, the same ratio can be used to provide adequate gluing, nailing, or bolting area.  Less length might not provide enough area for bolts, and more area isn't going to add more strength because the weak point still comes from the fact that you just cut out half the thickness of the board.

Picture: http://timberframehq.com/simple-half-lap-joint/


How can I get a standby generator with GFI to work with a 2-pole transfer switch? I have a home standby generator that is equipped with a GFI, and my original electrician (who has long since flaked out on me leaving me in a lurch with this) installed a standard 2-pole transfer switch rather than the required (according to the generator manual) 3- or 4-pole neutral switching switch. So I am now left with a working generator and completely wired transfer switch, but they won't work together as the GFI on the generator trips immediately upon starting when it's connected to the house (though it works fine with an extension cord).

Besides spending a ton of money all over again to get a 3- or 4-pole switch installed is there anything I can do to get this to work?

I've read about possibly not grounding the generator a second time here, but I'm not exactly sure what that means or if it is safe. I've talked to 2 other electricians about this and so far no one seems to have a clue.

This site seems to have a decent explanation:

Some portable generators are intended for use on jobsites, and therefore are subject to OSHA regulations for GFCI protection on all receptacles.  These "contractor grade" generators have their neutral wire bonded to the ground wire to pass OSHA inspection on job sites.  Since home and building main load centers also have the neutral bonded to ground, a loop is created, comprised of the neutral wire and the ground wire. A small amount of current is induced in this loop by the running generator. and since the neutral wire passes through the ground fault sensor, the GFCI senses this induced current and trips the main circuit breaker in the generator.
When using these neutral bonded generators to power a house or building through a transfer switch, the neutral bond wire on the generator must be removed, preferably by a dealer or a qualified electrician. NOTE: After this action, the generator will no longer pass OSHA inspection on job sites. Contact your dealer to determine if the neutral bond can be removed, and we recommend that a dealer perform this task.  Honda dealers may refer to Honda Service Bulletin #20 for instructions on removing the neutral bond.  Once this is done, no modifications to your transfer switch installation are needed.
If the neutral bond cannot be removed, you have two choices.  The easiest solution is to lift the ground wire coming from the generator inside the transfer switch, and secure it with a wire nut, by itself.  This eliminates the loop.  Your other choice is to install a Switched Neutral Kit (SNK) accessory with your transfer switch, available thru our website.

Note that the generator is still grounded, it's just the neutral bond is gone. This means that the generator does not meet code for stand-alone operation anymore.

So your options are:

Install a switched neutral kit
Change to a neutral-switching transfer switch
Remove the ground-neutral bond from your genset

Here's the instructions on how to do this for Honda generators: http://www.gen-tran.com/assets/pdfs/HondaGeneratorServiceBulletin20.pdf
Here's another good site that explains the issue and how to fix for several other generators: http://members.rennlist.org/warren/gt5000c.html


Will openings near the corner of a slab compromise its strength? I'm planning to build a 10x8 shed that will house the pipework and electrical equipment for a new well I recently had drilled. I would like the shed to sit on a concrete slab just for the quality of life it provides.  My well contractor suggested that I pour the slab first, leaving 1x1 holes roughly 1' in from the corners where I can run pipework through afterwards.

Once the slab is finished with the holes, does it compromise the integrity of slab if I were to dig out the dirt between the hole and the edge of the slab to run the pipes?
How best to fill/pack dirt  back in after the pipes are put in place?  Should I fill the holes with concrete, or just pack in gravel to be flush with the surface of the slab?

Rough drawing of what it'll be like:

You could use large Schedule 40 PVC as conduit for the pipes. You'd use large radius bends. Will the pipes be PEX or copper? I think soft copper could be fed through a large radius bend and I am sure PEX could be. This would make replacing piping much easier if you ever needed to replace the piping under the slab.