A more thermally efficient house - can I block up vents in my brickwork? I live in the UK in a typical '1930's semi' house.  It is built with two layers of good old bricks and a cavity wall inbetween them.  In my hallway, there is currently no carpet or hardwood flooring - just the original timber floor, which has gaps in.  I happened to notice the sun shining in through the floor recently when the sun was at a low angle in the sky.  I could then tell that the 'airbrick' or vent in the brickwork outside, was allowing air directly in and under this floor.  This explains why the hallway is so cold in the winter, with cold air coming directly underneath this floor.  I have several more of these airbricks around the house, and I suspect they are all letting cold air directly into the house and making it like a sieve in the winter.  Im trying to make the house more thermally efficient to save on gas bills etc and to make it bit more environmentally friendly.  Ive done triple glazing and insulated the loft.  But Ive got cold air coming directly in here so I need to do something about these vents.  My question then is - can I just remove them and put a normal brick in, and get away with it?  Will I end up with condensation / damp afterwards?  How do you make these 1930s style houses really thermally efficient?  Any tips much appreciated, thanks.

No, you cannot just block those air vents.

If you do you will cause condensation problems.

You need to investigate some cavity insulation systems - which would be more effective with your money compared to the triple glazing - think about the area of the walls and the areas of the windows. Whatever system of insulation is used, there must be some compensating air ventilation - good windows tend to have small air vents built into the top of them for exactly this.


How to mount LED power supply I am looking to install some LED strips in my closet to light it up. Since it is full of shelving, I figured I would run it up, across, and down the door frame (roughly) so the shelf contents could be seen. I am based in the northeastern USA.

I purchased these strips: LightingWill SMD2835

I've been looking for power supplies and I see the many varieties available, from simple plug-in AC adapters to sealed water-resistant bars to boxes with vent holes (and a fan, even).

It seems the latter two options generally come with bare wire only (yes, I understand that you can simply add a plug); my question is:

What are the requirements for mounting these power supplies? I highly doubt that a vented supply, with terminal leads visible can just be mounted in the open against a wall. Similarly, even with the IP rated bars that are bare wire, how do you solve the house power line connection issue?

Do you place the power supplies in some kind of electrically approved box? Do the bare wires make a connection in a junction box and then comes out through some cover plate? Or something else entirely? Curious what is out there.

Thanks!

For simplistic sake. I would just use a plug in wall wart. You can plug that into a switched outlet, or a wireless switched outlet. Cheaper and less hassle if there is an outlet near your termination point.


Is it safe to change wind blowing direction of a William Wall Mounted Heater? I have a old William Wall Mounted Heater, as shown in pictures. (I took the bottom casing off)

I'd like to change the direction hot air blow out, so I used a plier to make those wind blades upward instead of bending downward, because too much hot air makes some buckling in my vinyl flooring. The pilot is located on the bottom section.

Is it safe for me to do that? I'd like to be very careful when handling a gas-powered wall mounted heater. Thanks for any advice.

Normal heaters of this type use natural convection: input at the bottom, output at the top.  The vanes are bent for that purpose.    However, this has a problem; it doesn't provide any room circulation, and hot air tends to "hang out" at the ceiling, where it can be 10 degrees warmer than air at the floor.

It doesn't take much to stir the air in the room; I use a "muffin fan" from a PC power supply.

What you have there is Williams' attempt to correct that.  It's called Forsaire, and it indeed has an electric forced-air blower.  This creates a reverse flow.  Now, cold air is taken at the ceiling, heated and dumped at the floor.  And you don't like that.

Depending on your model, the furnace may function during power loss.  Those models keep the thermocouple and millivolt thermostat from the convection models, and will cheerfully fire and burn the burner with no power at all.  Normally, the blower detects the heat and runs the blower at that point; however if the power is out, that doesn't happen, and it makes do with convection. Kinda cool actually; I've seen it. And if I recall, the manual specifically says you can do that.  In this operating mode, airflow is convection: out the bottom, up the top. That's what you want, yes?

Some models of this furnace make the 24V thermostat power mandatory; obviously they won't fire during AC power loss.

So you might want to consult your furnace's manual, or contact the factory, and see if yours can operate this way.

Also, ask the factory about alternate doors which will give you flow in a different direction.  They actually sell those: check out diffuser grille kits 6703 or 6704, or side grille kit 6702.

If cost were no object, I'd say swap this for a passive Williams unit, since you don't even like the Forsaire feature.  But that's a $700-900 deal depending on the size of the unit and if it's double-sided.


Measure flange distance from wall without removing toilet I want to install a new toilet. However, I need to get a new one first and I have to know the distance from the wall to the center of the flange. Therein lies the problem. How can I measure this distance without removing the toilet? Do the screw areas of the toilet align with the center of the flange?

I know the standard is usually a foot, however this doesn't quite look like it is that much.

The important dimension is from the wall to the centerline of the bolts that hold the toilet in place. Measuring from the base is inaccurate. The tightest I have installed a toilet from the wall is 11 1/2" or so, when the toilet was 12" rough in. If you have baseboard that is 3/4" thick, you measurement could be as tight as 10 3/4" from the baseboard.


Why do I have saw out the bar the electric box hangs on to replace it with a fan rated bar and box? I had a ceiling light and it had a metal bar and a electrical box. The home is not that old but The electrical box was not ceiling fan compatible so I removed the box. Now the bar is solid I could hang off the thing and it would not move and believe me holding me is more weight than the ceiling fan. To install the ceiling fan with the bar and electric box that is ceiling fan approved I have to saw out the existing bar and put a new one in. My question is why do I have to do that?? Isn't there some electrical box that I can buy that will work for the ceiling fan and the existing ceiling light bar??? If there isn't there should be But please tell me there is cause I don't want to saw the existing metal bar in pieces.

Thanks

It would be preferable to know what that bar is secured to and how well. Fans vibrate, and that can introduce a failure mechanism lights (or you), as a static weight, don't have. It sounds like I'd probably use the existing bar if it was my own house, but that's comment, not recommendation.


How should I connect a new smart switch to my wiring? I think I have a regular 2-way Switch but there are 3 wires connected to it: 2 black wires going to the same screw and a red one going to an upper one. I'm not sure which wire is doing what. How can I identify or know which wire is which? The new switch I have is a smart switch and it's asking me for 2 live, 1 ground, and 1 neutral. Inside the box I could find the neutral wire and also a copper wire, but I don't know the others.

I'm guessing here, so you'll need to investigate and verify.

The black that loops over the screw is your constant hot, and it travels on to supply the other switch or some other part of the circuit. The red is the switched hot to the light. The whites are neutrals, one of which comes back from the light. Bare copper is ground.


3 zone boiler heat, one zone is too hot I have a 3 zone boiler heat system, one t-stat for each floor. It's worked fine for years except twice in the past few months. The first time I was out of town and my wife called and said the upstairs was very hot. I can't remember how I got it straightened out over the phone but I did. I figured the old mercury t-stat on that floor was sticking on so I replaced it with an electronic version.

Then today we had the same problem, t-stat set on 65, temp is 75. I switched that t-stat from heat to off and then took a look at the boiler and valves. The manual override on that zone valve is in the 'auto' position, making me think it's not stuck open but that's the only cause I can think of.

Can the valve be stuck open without the manual lever moving from the auto position? Doesn't the lever move when the valve opens, or does the lever stay in the 'auto' position whether the valve is open or closed? The only idea I have is to rebuild or replace the zone valve.

The control for the system looks like it's just a junction box, no relays. Do the t-stats just control the power to the valves directly, not provide a control signal? There must be a relay to activate the pump then, right? Or am I completely confused?

Thanks

Well, we know water's getting through & the circulator's pumping. So, I'd say get an HVAC guy out to inspect, test & replace whatever. The valve actuator motor could be failing & getting stuck. Meaning, you're periodically getting heat when another valve opens & pumps. Or, the valve's circuitry has an intermittent problem with not signaling the valve to close or the circulator to stop. I don't think there's a rebuild option here, sorry. Plus, you'll know what's what when the other valve's go.


How can I frame and hanging large prints? Hope this is relevant to this site.  I have a 41"x48" print of a satellite photo that I'm trying to hang on a wall without a frame.  It's about 40 years old, so I want something that will be gentle.  I was thinking of sandwiching it between two sheets of acrylic and using clip frames.  Can you get clip frames for something that big?  Is there a better way to go about doing this?

I'm assuming you aren't the type of person that would just stick it to the wall using thumbtacks.

The best solution would be to get this print professionally conserved, and then have a reputable frame shop make a custom frame for it.

This process will probably cost in the $500 - $1,000 range including the frame, but depending on the print, it might be worth it.

The conservation process would stabilize the paper, and prevent it from further damage. It would entail flattening out the print, cleaning the dirt with special solvents, and then most likely putting a backing on it and then sticking it into a vacuum press to get all of the bubbles and folds out of it.

Once it has been conserved, a frame shop can walk you through the details of making the frame such as the style of frame, the type and color of matting, the glass, etc. The frame shop will then wire up the frame so it can be hung securely on your wall. At the end, it should look like something that could be easily found in an art gallery.

There are other options such as building the frame, and cutting the mat yourself, but the results won't be anywhere near what it would be if it was professionally made. The tools and supplies would also be expensive. The mat cutter kit alone is $200 or more. It definitely would not be worth investing in those tools yourself unless you plan to frame many other pictures.


How much gravel to remove to plant grass? I'm removing tiny (1cm) landscaping gravel from my backyard in hopes of putting down topsoil and then grass seed.  I'm having a hard time getting all the pebbles up.  I'm going to be adding, at minimum, 6 in of topsoil.  Is it ill advised for me to just remove everything that isn't embedded in the dirt and just add the soil on top?

If you're collecting the gravel to reuse, get as much as practical.  If not, just leave it in place.  6" of topsoil should be more than enough for grass to establish itself, and the gravel won't hurt anything.  Soil will eventually fill in the gaps.

You could speed the process by putting down a thin layer of cheap dirt or sand, and watering it to wash it into the stone, then put down the topsoil.  Or, you could mix the gravel into the topsoil when you put it down.

Until the stone is filled in and it becomes compacted, you will get more drainage than top soil over clay or compacted dirt, so water a little more often for the first season.


How to Pocket joist into double Wythe solid Brick wall? I have a project in which I am relocating a staircase in a home I recently purchased. The engineer's drawings show the joists being pocketed into the walls. My original understanding was that you could cut an opening into the brick next to the existing beams, make fire cuts on the new LVL beams, wrap the ends with some type of moisture proofing wrap (like 55# felt?), then install the beams.

The engineer's drawings provide zero details on how the beams should be pocketed other than "3 inches minimum bearing". Also, when I had a contractor look a the project, they told me that it is illegal in Philadelphia to pocket beams and that a ledger needs to be used instead otherwise this project would fail inspection.

Some of my questions are:

1.) Why is it so illegal to pocket beams if the entire building top to bottom (built in the 1940's) consists of pocketed beams (probably not even fire cut to begin with)? Isn't it more sound from a structural standpoint to pocket?

2.) If a ledger needs to be used, how would you deal with the joists where the stairwell spans? Do the ALL the joists need to be cut and hung from one long ledger off the brick then using joist hangers as specified in the drawing on the stairwell ledger at the other end.

3.) How would YOU have this done if it was your house and why?

Here is the drawing provided by the engineer. :

This was my original understanding of what should be done (based off the drawing) before I talked to the contractor:

Here are actual pictures from the basement:

The new stairwell will be located along the party wall (to the right of the last picture) where all those pipes are seen which will be in the process of being relocated.

The reason the Code does not approve pocket installation of joists and beams is because it is difficult, if not impossible, to install hangers properly in pockets.

Joists, and especially beams, need to be supported for vertical loading and lateral loading. In order to do that, the joists and beams need to be fastened (nailed or bolted) into a steel hanger and the hanger needs to be secured to the building. Setting the hanger in a pocket does not allow nailing or bolting. (Actually, there are special hangers that extend far enough to allow nailing or bolting, but anchoring the hanger into the wall would be difficult.)

I don’t like anchoring beams into existing 1940 brick walls, because I don’t know how much, if any, reinforcing is in the wall. Rather, I like adding a post to support the beam and then bolting the post to the wall. (Posts under each joist isn’t reasonable, so I’d use a ledge to support the joists, but each joist needs a steel connector to fasten it to the ledger.)

Fire cut joists were used so that the joists would fall out of the pocket in the wall if there is a fire. Now, we reinforce the wall so it doesn’t fall if the joist is burned through.

There are common hangers that you can use between the joists and the beam by the stair. I’d ask your engineer to clarify the size and type he’d recommend.

Fastening the ledger to the brick wall will require “through bolts” through the brick wall. Again, I’d go back to the engineer and ask him to design the size and spacing of the bolts required. He will need to design the size of washer to use too so the bolts won’t pull back through the brick wall. Then, use similar joist hangers that you’re using on the other end to fasten the joists to the ledger.

You asked, how I would have designed the project? I don’t like “Point” connections. That is to say, I don’t like connectors connected into the existing brick wall because I can’t calculate the strength of the wall because the reinforcing is unknown. Rather, I’d build a wood frame wall with all the connections fastened to it in the work area. I’d cover the walls with plywood and then connect the wall to the exterior walls at many locations. The new walls would help hold the existing walls together and make the entire structure stronger.


How to patch long strip on drywall? My room had a chair rail which I stripped out.
It was glued and left a long strip on the drywall.
The strip is just paper and I am not sure how to patch them ...

Also, there are some glue left on the wall and not sure how to remove them.

Can someone give me advises?

Sounds like you tore off some of the paper on the face of the drywall. This is cosmetic damage and if it wasn't over a seam it doesn't need tape. Scrape the glue (go ahead and damage the wall a little), apply spackle, sand it, (repeat?), paint.

Anywhere with crumpled up paper sticking-out (will not sand flat) needs to be bashed in (using the corner on the butt of a small trowel) and filled; circles with a wet sponge never worked for me. Which is the trick for dealing with the fuzzies where the paper has delaminated and you're looking at a brown spot. Attempt to sponge these types of areas and then apply a skim coat of plaster or it will show in the finish paint. Use a damp sponge, DO NOT saturate the wall, or the entire section may bubble.

An 8-12" trowel makes doing large patches much easier, try not to leave too much at the edges where it meets the old work (this is the most important area to bevel sand). While sanding it, you should begin to feel a nice feather once the old paint starts showing through in spots.

This is kind you want, not a flat trowel with an in-line handle. Those require a bit more experience to use and you still need one of these. If you do buy both, a good tip is to bend the flat trowel a tiny bit, making it ever so slightly concave. This facilitates a nice build-up along the center and gives you an already good taper at the edges.


How to Fix Ductwork that I Crushed? I stumbled off of a step ladder and crushed this ductwork. It's in a bathroom and runs along the floor on a concrete slab between joists. The house is 50 yrs old. The ductwork looks like it's galvanized. How do I repair or replace it? The end of the run continues under a wall. Is there a seam on the bottom? If so, I probably ruptured it.

Looks like common 3 1/4" x 14" rectangular tin vent pipe, you should be able to buy it at any good plumbing shop. It sometimes comes with a locking seam along one edge but HVAC professionals often buy non-seamed pieces of various lengths.

You may be able to beat that back into shape and use listed duct tape to patch it up. If not you will need to find the next upstream connection and replace the whole length.


Will I have to chuck my Drill Press Chuck? The Drill Press in question is a Wen 4214. I had originally seated the chuck by tapping it with a hammer by way of a piece of scrap and then, for good measure, pressed it into a piece of scrap. It's been working great!

But, I had need to drill a big hole...a 4.5" hole to be exact. I attempted to drill slowly, but apparently wasn't careful enough and got the bit stuck. When I released pressure to bring it back up, the bit immediately started to wobble. I cut power and the chuck completely fell out.

I planned on cleaning up the taper and reseating but noticed some chipping on the tenon (imaged below). Because this is such a precisely machined part, is this chipping basically junking my chuck?

To summarize my main question: Is the chuck irreparably damaged?

Secondary Ask: Any advice you have on the chuck coming out using a hole saw bit is welcome.

images linked to larger versions

That is a Morris taper. Clean it off and slip it back in place a light tap with a mallet should seat it. The tail stock on my lathe has a MT4 much larger and I have spun it out several times, I wipe it down with brake cleaner inside and out and slide it back in then a tap and it is fine. I have a fly cutter that is about 5" and I use it all the time on the mill I use light pressure and don't usually have any problems. Your drill bit probably grabbed and sucked down breaking the connection. Don't drive it in hard or you may deform the mandrel.


How to increase the height of a wooden cabinet? I am a complete and utter novice when it comes to woodwork (this is in fact my first ever project) so there may be an obvious solution to this, but:

I'm building a TV lift cabinet. I started with the shell of an old oak & hardboard unit. I stripped everything out (shelves, screws & nails, drawers, plinth) and added a lot of pine and MDF to drastically strengthen it and support the TV lift mechanism. This all works, but the TV lift needs another ~100mm of clearance at the top.

I was going to use the same sturdy pine I've been using for supports (47mm x 100mm), however I'm not confident that I could do a decent mitre join to get a perfect 90° (and I'm not sure how to join mitre joins either), and they're too thick to do a dovetail join. They also need to be reasonably sturdy; although they're not structural, they do need to support a 20mm hardwood top (either sapele, walnut or oak).

I'm also not sure how best to attach this wooden rectangle (assuming that's the best solution) to my 'structural top' - this is a sheet of 19mm MDF with a hole cut into the middle for the TV to pop up through. For reference:

I've debated using wood screws up from underneath (although this will be tricky in a couple of spots), and/or glue, but I've not had much luck with No More Nails, and as I said it does need to support a hardwood top (with will be 1240mm x 480mm).

Any suggestions would be gratefully received - I've been winging it thus far.

Jack brings up a good point, you can create height in both directions. If you want to add height to the top, the process of selecting the method of construction would be determined by the look or style you're trying to achieve. If, for example, you want a Greene and Greene look, the riser might have a pinned finger joint like so:

If you want something a bit more reclaimed looking, maybe you could build a rough box to create your height and then wrap it in rusted sheet metal.

If a more classical look is desired, turn to architecture. This picture shows a cabinet with what's called a frieze between the crown moulding and the top of the cabinet. This is called Greek revival because it's based on the buildings of ancient Greece .
Note the small moulding below that conceals the joint between the frieze and the case.

In any case the methodology for affixing the top to the riser and riser to the case would be similar.

Assemble your riser in whatever fashion you choose and add some ribs that delineate the opening for your lift.

This is overkill but you get the idea, which is to give yourself more places for attachment points and to create a chase for your lift to pass through.
Lay the completed riser on the case and mark out where the perimeter and ribs will be when assembled. Set the riser aside and pre-drill the lid of your case.
Pocket screw (and glue if you wish) the riser to the top. If you don't have a Kreg jig for pocket screwing, L-brackets will work.
Set the top/riser sub assembly on the case making sure to orient it in the same way it was when you marked out for your holes.
Run screws up through the pre-drilled holes into your riser. You may want to pilot holes into your riser depending on what materials you're using.

Hope this helps, good luck!


What could cause high power usage in HVAC system after lightning strike? My house was recently struck by lightning. It fried several components of the HVAC system. Technician was able to restore operation, however the system does not cool anywhere near as crisp as it did before.   And immediately after the strike, the energy usage has spiked and held consistent way above normal/average.

I have the thermostat set to 79 F to restrict cooling run time and have turned off or turned down practically everything else non-essential in the house. Daily power usage continues to be way above normal even with far less things running.

A separate air conditioning technician advised me that regardless of the system actually functioning, the compressor may be grounded resulting in weak cooling and high energy draw. I need serious help on this confounding situation as my electric bill has suddenly quadrupled over pre-strike usage. What are your professional opinions on this matter please?

Your excessive power draw can definitely be attributed to your hvac equipment having a faulty electrical component. Like others said, you need to shut the breakers off to the equipment and see if the power draw decreases over time to know for sure. Or you could have a technician check the equipment. The issue may not be your hvac system at all, however the fact that is is not cooling properly means it needs to be looked at by a professional.

Im not sure what type of system you have (condenser, Evaporator and air handler or furnace) but you need to have a technician check and test the compressor windings and motor windings of the condenser fan motor. It would also be wise to check to see if the blower motor for the indoor unit is still functioning properly. He should also check if anything is over amping. I would advise not using the unit until it is checked.


How often should I repaint the inside of my house? How often should I repaint just to keep it looking fresh? Should I wait until the old paint start to peel and crack or should I repaint it every 2 to 3 years regardless if the old paint is still "quite fresh" or not?

It should normally be many years, if not decades, before paint starts to peel. Cracking may occur as the house settles, but that is usually due to the structure shifting and not a poor paint job. If the paint was not applied properly (eg, surface not prepared correctly), it may peel earlier, or this may indicate another major problem such as moisture in the walls.

So to answer your question: you should likely re-paint when the house is looking dated, the walls are scuffed up or damaged beyond cleaning, or when you're sick of the color. Between 5 and 15 years is a reasonable expectation of time between repainting, in my experience.

To have the longest-lasting paint job, the keys are good surface prep and good quality paint (basically just not the cheapest stuff). There's also another question with some good tips about painting.

Though we don't give decorating advice here, if you are going for a long-lasting paint job, keep in mind that there are colors that seem to always be current (I guess the "neutral" colors) and others that while they may be trendy today, a decade from now someone will look at them and say "wow that is so 2010's" just like today you might do that for the 90's or 80's.

Many people paint neutral colors before selling as it does look new, and some potential buyers  can be negatively affected by strong colors they don't like or that make a room look dark or small.


1.25 HP Garbage Disposal Blows Fuse I have an American Standard High Torque Garbage Disposal (QKGO2), and it was installed by the previous homeowner less than two years ago. It hasn't seen too much use, however, because it trips the breaker pretty often. It will run all day with just water, and maybe the occasional tiny scrap, but as soon as there is the tiniest amount of resistance (or even if it's turned on with the sink draining), it will trip the breaker.

It runs, is plugged into an outlet under the sink, and appears to be the only thing on a 20 Amp breaker (we've left it tripped for weeks at a time and have never noticed anything else in the house without power). The breaker is one of those where I have to push it ALL the way to off before I can reset it, if that means anything to anyone.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Something is wrong with the disposal or something is wrong with the circuit breaker.  It's normal operation to turn a breaker all the way off before resetting it.  I believe that's how all of them work.

To diagnose the problem, you're going to have to measure the power usage of your disposal.  You can do this with a "clamp meter" that measures amps or a more consumer friendly meter like a "Kill-a-watt" brand power usage meter.

If the disposal never goes over 20 amps but the breaker is still tripping, the breaker is most likely bad.  If it goes over 20 amps then something is wrong with the disposal and replacement is probably the best fix.


Finding studs in a horse hair plaster wall? So, I've tried all the standard methods. Checked the outlet, which is screw directly into the lath(yeah, is that even up to code?!). Magnet doesn't work, I've got a rare earth magnet, and the plaster is apparently too think to pick it up(it's about an inch thick, so this doesn't make sense). I though to use the window as a base, but from the center line of where a stud would be at the edge of the window, 16 inches from there, there is no stud(I drilled it).

I'm losing my mind on this.

There are numerous electronic stud finders that do not rely on magnetic signals. They use a form of density testing looking for studs, not the nails in studs. Many of them can see through plaster and wood lath.

There are a wide range of versions and prices, and, as in many things, the midrange may give you the best value.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Can I install a humidifier on a horizontal duct? I have a Honeywell whole-house humidifier (HE360A1075). Can this be installed on the horizontal ducting here on the left? It feels like it's an aluminum box under the tape.

This is both gas heat and AC, over the winter heat only.

I can run water and drainage from the floor below, as there's a bathroom almost under this attic space. The space itself is insulated, so temp shouldn't be an issue.

My primary concern is whether this part of the ducting is sufficient to actually install on.

Secondary question - the AC drains out of the side of the house, from the drain piping seen here. Is it safe to drain out here? I assume not, as it would probably freeze over winter, something which wouldn't happen with AC as it only runs during the summer.

That's plenty of space to install a humidifier, provided it's air intake scoop is designed to operate or can be installed horizontally. Freezing of the supply line or its drain is a concern; steam humidifiers are recommended for unconditioned spaces. Drain it inside, install a catch pan and a shut-off switch, like you have for your AC coil. Sharing that installed pan's drain and safety switch will not help; it only shuts down the AC condenser, not the entire furnace.


1 generator + multiple ATSes: how can I install this to Code without unobtanium? I want to supply standby power to both units in a separately metered duplex from a single permanently installed generator.  The cheapest way to do this is a pair of bog-standard ATSes and a smallish loadcenter to serve as a generator distribution board, vs. having independent generators for each unit.

However, is there a Code-legal way to implement this, given that residential/light-duty ATSes are not available with a switched neutral pole (for instance, you cannot get an Asco 185 with a switched neutral), and that 300.3(B)/310.10(H) likely prohibits parallel neutral paths, such as the one shown in the diagram below? (Hots and grounds are omitted for clarity wherever possible, and so is everything downstream of the ATSes.)

Yes, this appears to be doable, but the parts required aren't quite standard
The good news is that this actually appears to be possible using inexpensive, readily obtainable parts; the only bad news is that it requires using them in a way that's technically off-label, but not in violation of the applicable listing requirements or product standard.
In particular, it turns out that the automatic transfer switches used for RV duty are listed to the same UL 1008, Eighth Edition standard requirements as any other ATS built and listed for optional standby service.  However, they are constructed with a switched neutral pole so that they can isolate RVs from sloppy shore power wiring, which means they are basically precisely what we ask for: an inexpensive, readily obtainable, split-phase ATS with a switched neutral pole.
There are a few caveats to this, though.  First off is that most of these ATSes have somewhat limited current ratings compared to their residential counterparts: 30A, two pole (single phase, 120V) and 50A, three pole (split phase, 120/240V) models are common, with 100A split-phase units seen only occasionally, while residential ATSes generally start at 100A and go up from there.  Furthermore, they are largely limited to the minimum 5kA short-circuit current withstanding rating permitted by UL 1008, vs the 10kA expected of residential distribution equipment, and are also not service entrance rated, something that precludes them from being used in whole-house transfer.  Given the existing downsides of whole-house transfer, though, and the fact that the standby loads would be on a feeder anyway, this is largely not an issue unless the utility-side feeder is rather short, and the 50A limitation is not a big deal for most reasonable standby loadsets anyway.
From here, labeling is the only remaining issue with the switch itself as RV ATSes have their dominant input marked for connection to the generator, assuming that the onboard power source is going to be more available/reliable than shore power is.  Of course, this isn't true in our application, so we need to connect the utility feeder to the input labeled "generator" and the generator to the input labeled "shore power" in order to get correct transfer timings. (Otherwise, you'll have to wait 30-45sec for the switch to transfer to generator power when the utility source drops out.)
Finally, RV ATSes are designed to be used with separate generator control logic, so we'll have to supply that ourselves; at a minimum, we need to provide a NC (SPDT) delay-OFF relay with a 240V coil to make it so that a loss of utility power causes the relay contacts to drop closed after a short period of time (a second or two), closing the starting contacts on the genset so that it cranks over and runs.  (A Macromatic TR-60621, paired with its mating socket and mounted in a suitable enclosure somewhere, is probably the easiest-to-find relay for this job.)


How reliable are connector strips with plug-in terminals and how do I select and use them properly? Here's a close-up photo of a connector strip with plug-in terminals

It's used for connecting 220 volt mains wires – you can see a bare metal wire coming in – that's 4mm2 aluminum wire. Each of the four holes has some clever spring-loaded contacts inside so that when you insert a wire there it is grabbed and held in place and presumably good contact is maintained. The terminals of the two holes where the wires come in are connected to each other inside and the other two holes terminals are connected to each other but not to the terminals of the first two holes. So the connector can be used to join four wires pairwise.

How reliable are such connectors? Do I use them or plain old connectors where each wire is held by a screw? How do I select such connectors and use them properly? What are possible caveats?

Call me old school, but I am not a fan of some of the new friction grabbing splice devices out there. Similar spring connectors have been used on spec grade outlets for many years for 14awg copper. I have seen many failures and intermittent connection problems with these push springs. My theory, and just a theory mind you, is that there is not enough actual contact surface between the wire and the connection device and that the contact tension cannot be tightened. Over time expansion and contraction of the wire, surface tarnishing and dust can compromise the integrity of the connection. This happens with copper and much more with aluminum. As the surface area of the connection shrinks from any of those factors, heat and arcing can be created in the connection. Eventually failure can result. If you look at the comparison with a good wire nut or screw fastening terminal strip, you will see that there is much more metal to metal contact, the conductors can be twisted together and the tension can be tightened at any time with a twist or a turn of a screwdriver.

An other concern I have is the use of these type of connectors with aluminium wire. I have had nothing but bad experience with alu branch feeder wiring over the years. You must be absolutely sure the device is Al/Cu rated at minimum and that connections are as tight as possible. On larger wires such as service entries where alu wire is still used regularly, a substance known as NOLOX is always used on these connection to fight corrosion and assure good conductivity between the wire and landing connector. I also use NOLOX on any dryer or range connections that have alu wire. Alu wire tarnishes very quickly and expands and contracts faster and more than copper, therefore needs to be secured firmly and protected from corrosion wherever possible.

The last reason I am not a fan of friction fit connectors is that they can be miserable to work with after initial installation. Yes, they are fast easy to install the first time, but if you need to modify a connection or trouble shoot a problem where these connectors are installed, it is pain if not impossible to remove wires temporally. Reinserting a wire often doesn't have the same grip as before.

I may be all wet on this one, but I'm not ready to give up my trusty high quality wire nuts and screwdriver yet.


Why would Central AC, Fridge & Pool Pump All Fail Within 3 Days? Could this be systemic?  Something in the electrical system for instance?  Or is it likely coincidental?

HVAC repair says they can't find a leak but the freon is very low and was fully charged in September.  It is 4 ton a/c unit split system with furnace from 1998.

Refrigerator repair says it needs a new board of some kind and that it will take 2 weeks to get one. GE Profile fridge from 2004.

Pool pump is not diagnosed yet. It did have low pool water level earlier in the week causing air to be sucked in.  Pump made a weird whining sound so I shut it off.

Should I have house electric checked?

Sounds like a string of bad luck.

While an electrical spike/surge will cause problems and failures in the controllers and motors, the freon exists in an enclosed system and therefore this will not cause a leak. The compressor is a hermetically sealed unit, so there are no shaft seals that will cause freon loss.

The refrigerator is the most likely to have succumbed to a power spike/surge.

Pumps will make weird sounds if there is a lot of air being circulated in the water, when they lose prime (run empty) they can destroy the shaft seal from it running without water to lubricate and take away the heat. Typically, the pump motor will not make noises from power surge/spike damage, it's more likely bearing failure (ball bearing type motors) from water leaking into the bearing through the failed shaft seal. The type of failure you see from electrical damage is overheating, shorted windings or failure to start because the start capacitor has been burned out. The stalled motor or shorted windings can cause the circuit breaker to trip, though they usually have internal thermal protection that shuts them down, causing the motor to shut off.


How do I wire a door bell? Can anyone make an educated guess on how to wire so the door bell rings?

The flat used to have door phone entry system, but it doesn't work anymore. So it is used as normal bell. In flat we had a phone, but builder removed when fixing the wall. Now I have 4 cables sticking out with no bell, I need to install a bell using these cables.

4 cable colours: blue, white with blue stripes, orange, and white with orange stripes.

I don't think the use of these colours are standardised (outside of use in plain old-fashioned land-line telephone systems).

I would disassemble the other end and see how the wires are connected up there. Most likely, two are connected to a push-to-make switch.

If you are sure the system is unpowered, you could use a multimeter to check all 6 combinations of two from four wires for DC voltage and, if no voltages present, check all 6 combinations for changes in continuity when the call-button is pressed.


Should I have my bath vanity drain augered to eliminate odor and dampness? The drains on our master bathroom look like they drain properly, but there's at least a hint that something's wrong: whenever we use mouthwash, the smell of mint sticks in the master bathroom and invades the master bedroom for many minutes afterwards.

The bathroom also often acquires a vaguely damp smell (though there is no fan, and we live in a humid area, so it may simply be damp).

Is there anything we should consider doing before putting money into having a plumber come out and looking at the drains? (We've tried a couple of obvious simple things like baking soda and vinegar down the drains, and Liquid Plumr/Drano.)

I agree with @isherwood+  The P trap holds some water to prevent sewer gasses from entering the home (all drains have them some times called a U bend). After rinsing your mouth, run the water for a bit to flush the mouthwash down the drain and the smell will be gone.


Can the fan be rewired so the fan works off the pull chain and the lights work off the switch? I have an existing ceiling fan in a hallway on a 3 way switch. When I turn on the switch both the fan and the lights will come on. Can the fan be rewired so the fan works off the pull chain and the lights work off the switch without having to run a new "hot" wire?

The only way to know for sure, is to pull the fixture down and have a look at the wiring. If power comes from the panel to the fixture first, then this is trivial. If power goes to one of the switches first, then you're likely out of luck.

If you are lucky, and the power does go to the fixture first. Simply connect the black wire from the fan, directly to the ungrounded (hot) supply conductor. Leave the blue wire from the fan connected how it is.

As BrownRedHawk mentioned in a comment, installing a remote might suit your needs. Though you may want a remote at each switch location, which complicates the installation a bit.


Tightening a nut in a tight space I have an office chair where the locking mechanism needs tightening. I think the right way to do it is turning this nut, but the problem is that the space is so tight that if I get an adjustable or open-end wrench in I can't turn it. Is there some kind of specialist tool for this kind of job? I think some kind of very thin open-end wrench with a ratchet on the open end could be what I need, but they seem expensive and hard to find.

EDIT: As you can see in the image, it is a very tight fit with an open-ended wrench and there are some metal rods the wrench hits that limits the range of motion even more.

I would propose that you go to a pawn shop or thrift store and get an open end wrench.

You could then grind away as much of the sides or the shoulders as you can but still leave enough so that it is structurally sound.  ( will not bend )

If you do not have a bench grinder then clamp it to a work bench and use an angle grinder.

OR, try a universal style wrench,

This kind fits over the nuts and allows you to tighten it in one direction and then rotate it back without having to take it off of the nut. You may need to grind it as well.


What is the term for an adjustable spanner with the opening at the side? I have in the past used (but do not currently own) adjustable spanners where the jaws are on the side of the handle so the nut enters from the side. Similar in layout to a pipe wrench but without the looseness and serrated jaws. I see these pop up in restoration videos which suggests they may be an older style.

These spanners can be handy because they often have a wide range of size adjustments and can sometimes get into tight spaces more easily than the current style of adjustable spanner that dominates nowdays.

Can anyone tell me if there is a specific name for this style of spanner and whether they are still made.

It's a monkey wrench, if you can believe that, or a coach wrench.

  Adjustable coach wrenches for the odd-sized nuts of wagon wheels were manufactured in England and exported to North America in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. They were set either by sliding a wedge, or later by twisting the handle, which turned a screw, narrowing or widening the jaws. In 1840, Worcester, Massachusetts knife manufacturer Loring Coes invented a screw-based coach wrench design in which the jaw width was set with a spinning ring fixed under the sliding lower jaw, above the handle. This was patented in 1841 and the tools were advertised and sold in the United States as monkey wrenches, a term which was already in use for the English handle-set coach wrenches.

And no, it wasn't named after a guy with a funny surname.


How do I stick paper on the wall in a stylish manner? I want to stick some papers on my room wall, some paintings and notes ..

but looking for a way that it looks fashion.

Any ideas about that?

This post describes a method of hanging fabric on a wall with spray starch.  The same technique may work with paper.  The benifit is easy removal without damaging the existing wall.


What window insulation can I use for thin gaps? I'm helping someone who moved into an older rental house with very old windows. The house is great but as shown in the pictures, some of the windows have significant gaps, so of course air (and even some dirt) is flowing through the gaps (heated or cooled = $).

What can I use to fill those gaps year-round but allow the window to open?

I've tried applying the thin white foam insulation but on these uneven windows, that can cause the window to not latch (see photo of old latches). One window was so bad that I stuck on foam for 30% of the window but had to remove it from the rest of the frame or the window wouldn't latch. That window is still tough to latch so I probably need to peel off more of the foam, higher up the frame.

I also investigated tubing insulation but didn't see any that would suit the problem. Hopefully I've missed something.

Is there some window insulation product that will compress when needed and fill gaps when needed?

Thanks!

Air leakage is the primary reason folks apply window film in the winter. By sealing against airflow through the unit as a whole, the volume of air moving through those gaps is dramatically reduced. Obviously this isn't a great solution for the cooling season.

Otherwise, modern window sashes are sealed either with vinyl tubing or brush seals. You could saw slots into your sashes and install them that way.

That may not be a practical solution in a rental home. Various types of sash seals are available on the market. Most involve a flange and a vinyl tube that's installed against the sash. Because of your flush frame situation, this could be a bit challenging. Most are designed to fasten to the protruding jamb. I suggest a trip to your home improvement store for a selection.


Ceiling fan motor disassembly Took apart a ceiling fan. Want to take apart the motor, but this thing looks like it was assembled tight, like a freaking bearing. I want to get to the goodies inside. I've taken out every screw there was and pried and pried but the two halves of the casing won't come apart. Tips??

The motor itself is usually assembled on to the shaft and housing using pressed on bearings. You won't be able to separate them without destroying the motor. Since the motor is intended to never be serviced, there's no reason to allow for them to be disassembled; doing so would only add more parts to potentially fail or loosen.


How to attach hose to router table port? How do I attach my dust collection hose to the port on router table fence?  I am using a standard shop-vac hose.

Given that you've provided no information about what actual size the shop vac hose (there are multiple "standards" though 2-1/4 inch is the one I'd usually assume) or the size of the hole in the router fence, either something like this, or something like that in the the other direction (or a chunk of wood with an appropriate size hole drilled in it.) The first can be cut to provide various smaller sizes or a flange, the second increases size to 4 inches.

Shop vac adapter (or Shop vac hose adapter) will get results in a search engine.

Or 1/3 of a roll of duct tape... ;-)


How can I extend my pre-built cabinets to the ceiling? What is the easiest and least noticeable method for extending  my old IKEA upper cabinets to the ceiling? The old door-fronts are basically materials to be used up during the remodel. I have 3” crown moulding that I’d like to get used up as well. The existing cabinets are within 8” from the ceiling.

Cabinets aren't usually extended to the ceiling. Either a soffit is built before cabinets are installed, or crown is installed directly on the cabinets (well below ceiling height). In your case, crown around the full-height cabinet and on the lower cabinets might look great, with all that detail and height variation to add interest.

However, if you're set on doing this, I'd build shells out of white melamine that are slightly smaller than the cabinet footprint, so as to avoid flush joints, and that reach to about 1/2" from the ceiling. This reduced height is to avoid the need to custom-fit to the ceiling. Then you can install your crown to the shells.

 _________________________________________________ <-- ceiling
    \\  _                                 _  //
     \\:_:_______________________________:_:// <-- crown molding
       | :                               : |
       | :                               : |
       | :                               : | <-- shell (sides shown)
      _|_:_______________________________:_|_
     |                                       |
     |                                       | <-- cabinet
     |                                       |

If you wanted to build the shells exactly to cabinet size you'd need to wrap the joint seam with some small trim to conceal the seam.


how to measure CFM in digital animometer dear friends how to measure CFM in digital anemometer and tell how its calculated in both practical and theoretical

Depending on the tool you're using, it may or may not directly display the value you're after (cubic feet per minute). You'll have to check the documentation for the tool you're using, to determine if, and how to output the proper value.

If the anemometer only displays the air speed (fpm [feet per minute]), you can use that value, along with the area of the register, to calculate the volume of air.  The formula is as follows.

Q = A*V

Where:

Q = Air flow (cubic feet per minute [CFM])
A = Area of register (square feet [sq. ft.])
V = Air velocity  (feet per minute [fpm])

EXAMPLE:

With a 10" x 6" register, and an average air speed of 275 fpm.

Q = ((10" * 6") / 144) * 275 fpm
Q = (60 sq. in./ 144) * 275 fpm
Q = 0.4166666667 sq. ft. * 275 fpm
Q = 114.5833333333 CFM

NOTE:

When measuring the speed of the air coming from the register, take a few measurements from different positions in front of the register. Take the average of all the collected values, and use that in the formula.


What should I use to fill big gap around door frame? A door was replaced (due to break in). The contractor insisted to go to a bigger size door. So we went from 32 to 36 inch (which is more widely available). Now I see a gap of near 1 inch between door frame and what appears to be the stud near the key hole. The door is screwed with some long screws into the frame.
Is this OK?
What do I do with the gap?
1- Fill with foam
2- Try to fit in with wood. What wood type will not cause expansion and deformation of frame of door?
3- ?
Also,
near the door step I see newly exposed vinyl flooring in bad shape (something was covering this portion up before). What do I use to cover it up?
Edit:
In retrospect that gap was a very bad thing. Exterior is Hardie plank and we needed a storm door to protect this door from the elements. That storm door cannot be screwed to Hardie, it needed a stud behind the exterior. So fill the gap with equivalent of stud before installing the door.

With the deadbolt on the door, it appears to be an exterior door, so the space in the jamb should be insulated, both at the top and the sides. No need for a full roll of insulation to be bought, there are smaller pieces that can be bought such as fiberglas pipe wrap, or ask a person you know that may have a little on hand. It won't take much.

The drawing below will explain a bit on what to do about sizing material for the trim to cover the gap. Perhaps other trim that is throughout the house will give an idea how to treat the door.

Perhaps the trim in your place looks like this? The sides of the door in this pic looks like the trim will fill the footprint in your flooring.

Carpet trim is what I Googled to find the strip to cover the edge where the flooring is cut at the door.


Building permit minimum fees -- is there such a thing as a job "too small to permit" in some jurisdictions? The electrical permits in my jurisdiction (Midwest USA city) run about $15 for a branch circuit off the top of my head (don't have the exact number, but it suffices for this question).  There are a few other fees added to them as well, but all in all, they do not add up to the $50 minimum fee requirement my jurisdiction imposes on permits.

Could it really be the case that the building department does not want people pulling permits for jobs the size of adding a single branch circuit to a house?  Or would it be legitimate to apply for a permit for a single branch circuit, and then give the building department $50 and say "keep the change"?

My small town jurisdiction says you don't need a permit to change a toilet or do minor electrical work.


Can (must) P-trap be directly underneath the drain in stand-up shower stall? Can (must) P-trap be directly underneath the drain in stand-up shower stall? I'm roughing in a 48"X36" one piece shower stall with a center drain. In the photo I've just got it dry fit. This is the way I "think" it's supposed to go? I can't imagine moving the P-trap any closer to the vent, as I'd have to use another 90. Or, asking another way, can I do it this way? Total distance is 24" to the vent, so I'm good there. A shower with other than a center drain is not an option, this is a stand up shower only, not a tub.  The way I envision this is I'll have about 4-6 inches coming out the trap (the "e" in pipe is level with top of crete), then the drain base glued on that. Yes I can easily slope to the vent, picture doesn't show it well. BTW the wye on the vent is already glued in (long time ago), and yes I plan on completing the vent with two couplings, vent is already plumbed to the main vent stack (not pictured) above, and yes, I plan on closing this back up with crete, then the shower stall on top of that. The clean-out in the photo is from the old laundry drain and is no longer connected to anything.

Looks good. You want the p trap where you have it, not back by the vent.


What type of drill bit should I use for pilot holes? What type of drill bit should I use for creating pilot holes?
Should I use a brad point bit for creating pilot holes or a different type of bit?
Does it matter what drill bit I should use or is diameter of the drill bit the only important thing?

Drilling pilot holes is needed when the screws are large or it is on finished wood.
For example a #6 or #8 wood screw into a stud I probably would not drill a pilot into fur but oak studs that I have found in old Victorian era homes the screw would snap off if no pilot was drilled. The same is true with larger 1/4” lag bolts and screws, but I do start using pilot holes for studs at 1/4”.
To answer your question.
How do I size the pilot?
I hold the drill behind the screw and if I see the drill is wider than the body (not the threads) it is too large. I only want the pilot to take the amount out that is solid as this will reduce splitting. I do the same on finish work but wood screws the last 1/3 of the screw is not threaded. I want that pilot the size of the body where it is threaded.
This is a rule of thumb, sometimes on very soft wood a smaller drill is appropriate. Where the wood is hard like 100 year old oak, a larger bit will be needed. The last part is, if it is structural smaller is usually best but decorative larger again. This is to provide a pin without splitting.
I have been sizing wood screws like this since my dad taught me this over 50 years ago and it has served me well.


20" long remote plastic breaker handle lever Does anyone know what kind of plastic lever that is about 20" long that can turn off or on a breaker handle so in case the breaker arc flashed, the fingers won't be injured? The following happened in 2015 where the electrician fingers were injured when the breaker arc flashed.

So even though I already ordered a $500 arc flash suit, it still can't protect the hands because the incident energy there is too powerful even with gloves (due to melting slags, etc.) Hence want to use long remote plastic lever to turn it off or on. Any ideas?

There is no such device for that type of breaker. It is DESIGNED to be mounted into what's called a "dead front" panel in which only the handle sticks through. That would have prevented the collateral damage in the event of an arc flash due to breaker failure. Someone has built something with a breaker that was not intended to be used in that manner, so there is no support for off-book usage.

PROPERLY designed Arc Flash protection suits will prevent injury in an arc flash event taking place with doors open, a "40cal" suit and gloves would likely be more than adequate for the level of incident energy that can be associated with that series of breaker (10kAIC). But a "plastic handle" would not really protect anyone unless it was long enough to put them outside of the Blast Radius which I think would be 48" (I'm not going to look it up for you...)

There are different designs of Molded case Circuit Breakers that can be used and operated with the doors completely closed and have an external operating handle. You may want to rethink what you are using this for in that respect.


Water from fireplace One several occasions, a small small amount of water collects in the basement.  Looks like it is coming from the wall/section of foundation directly below the fireplace.  I've check the grading and downspout outside Andy eye all look good.  Was asking some friends and one thing that maybe in heavy heavy rain, the water is entering the top of the fireplace and making its way down into the basement.

Can this happen?

Rain can run down the inside of the chimney, in my last house with 2 fireplaces 1 on each floor the stack was quite large and I ended up adding a rain shield 18" above the opening to reduce the amount of water coming in. Also if the flashing on the outside of the stack has not been maintained water can run down the outside.


What happens when two separate circuits are connected to a 120/240v breaker? After a kitchen remodel, my 1650 W microwave was plugged into a dedicated outlet connected to a 120/240 v circuit breaker(not tandem).  Another circuit with four kitchen outlets is connected to the same breaker. My question is whether either circuit will ever be exposed to the full potential 240 volts, or whether the circuits are necessarily limited to 120 volts because they are separate.  After only a few days, the microwave plugged into the dedicated line died.  I am wondering if this is because it was exposed to the higher voltage or some other reason.  A label in the machine says it should never be used on a circuit with more than 120 volts. Do I need to get the electrician to make changes or did the microwave die of natural causes?

A two pole breaker can be used to create a multi-wire branch circuit. It should have a 3 wire cable with a bare ground. The two hot legs would have 240 volts between them and each will have 120 volts to the neutral.

If the neutral has a bad connection toward the origin of the circuit it is possible to get strange voltages as the loads are now in series with each other between the two hot legs. So you are splitting 240 volts between the loads if the neutral is disconnected. For instance, this could cause the microwave or other loads to have 180 volts while the other loads have 60 volts. This could cause damage to your appliances.

Have the voltage on the wiring checked and have it checked for bad connections before using it any more.

Good luck!


Anchoring toilet flange into hollow space in floor? I'm replacing a toilet and am using a Hydroseat rather than replacing the damaged flange. The problem that I've run into is one of the spots to anchor the Hydroseat down seems to be hollow below the tile.

The other three spots hit the concrete slab and I've anchored to them successfully, but I'm not quite sure what to do about the one sitting above the void. I'm not sure how to anchor it to the floor without hitting concrete or wood. Any ideas?

you can just inject hydraulic cement into the void and let cure.  then anchor your flange with a tapcon type screw.  or just inject the hydraulic cement and then insert a screw into the wet cement.  when it cures, it will lock the screw in place.


Running cat6 through a wall I am running new cable from my second floor to my first using wall jacks. I'm not getting a connection through them and I don't have a tester on me. The cables going into the upstairs from the modem are cat6. In the wall is cat6. And the data jacks are cat6 but the ethernet coming out of the wall downstairs in cat5e. Would that make it not work?

For typical use up to 1 Gig., CAT 5e or CAT 6 will work fine, and they can be mixed together without any problem.
Use the right tools for the job!
Get a Tester
It is incredibly easy to miss a wire or get two wires swapped. It happens to the best of us. A tester is worth every penny. When I started with Ethernet twisted pair networks many years ago, my first tester cost a few hundred $ and was worth every penny. The good news is that now they have gotten dirt cheap, so that they can make sense even for occasional use. I currently have a Klein tester:

and I've also got some cheap almost throwaway testers like this:

Almost any of them will do a reasonable job of telling you if things are wired correctly or not (and if not, what wires are wrong). The more expensive models can catch other types of errors, mains voltage on the line (ouch!), and more.
And while we're at it, if you don't already have one, get a
Punch Tool:

As with the tester, if you get a better quality tool it will last longer and might be a little easier to use. But for once-in-a-while usage, a cheap one will do just fine and will be a lot easier and a lot more reliable than trying to get wires onto a jack using a screwdriver or some other not-designed-for-the-job tool.


can a vent stack be left inside a building and simply cut down I'm having a conservatory built. All my plumbing is being moved except for the vent stack. I won't need it to vent pipes, but it's venting a drain also used by nearby properties. The builders have cut the vent stack to approximately 2 feet above ground level. My question is: Should they have relocated it, as it'll now be in the conservatory? I understood vent stacks were for releasing gasses but the builders informed me it's a fresh air vent.

Say what now..... connected to other drains ... opens in your conservatory....

What are they thinking...

You will be subject to all kinds of gasses, and SMELLS, and possible the odd rodent returning up the pipe.

Even if there is some kind of trap down there that prevents backflow, the pipe will suck air from your conservatory and make noise.

Tell them to move it.


How to fix PVC to PVC leak? There's a leak in the PVC to PVC connection shown below.  The pipe without red-lettering is not securely attached.  It rotates slightly and can be pushed in and out slightly as well.  I don't believe there's enough movement to pull it out completely as-is.

What's the best way to fix this?  Specifically, where should I cut, and what can be re-used?

I am open to using the PVC primer and cement if recommended.

You'll want to try pulling it out - it would save a lot of headache if you could clean up and re-glue that joint.

There's small odds that you could cut the loose pipe short, then break out the remaining pipe in the fittings, and then clean the fitting up enough for re-use, if you can't just yank it out.

Otherwise you'll need all the fittings in the picture, plus 3 couplings (or unions, but those tend to be rare in PVC.) You 'll also need more pipe, as some will go for scrap with the fittings. A solvent-welded pipe is almost impossible to re-use.

You will also want PVC cement, AND primer AND cleaner. Dry everything well (if you can't, be sure to get special "wet use" cement - but try to dry it well...) Then clean both parts of the connection with the cleaner, and wait a minute; prime both parts with the primer, an wait as per directions (not too fast, but not so slowly it dries); then apply glue, as per directions, to both parts, and insert with a twist (1/4 turn is a typical goal) then hold them tight for a minute or so (they will try to push out somewhat due to the glue making the pipe expand a bit and the fittings being slightly tapered.) To get something like this where you are working in the middle together (without unions), you typically need to do at least one section of pipe on both ends at once, which is  little tricky.

Or you can try to kludge it with rubber couplings (shudder, though it beats nothing for a temporary fix.)

Beware of old PVC cement - if it's not liquid, but has headed more to the "cold honey - taffy - brick" consistency, it's useless, even if you can still manage to spread it. New glue is cheap - buy small cans unless you have a large project in a short time, it does not keep well. It should be at least as runny as warm honey, probably a bit runnier.


Does my PRV need to be replaced? What is an acceptable pressure drop when a faucet is opened, if the PRV is functioning correctly and all the pipes are sized right? I have a 1.25” supply transitioning to a 1” and then splitting into two 3/4” lines for the hose bibs The pressure gauge at the hose bib reads 65 psi with no water running. When I open a hose bib next to the one being monitored, the pressure drops to 40 psi.  I see drops of 20-24 psi, even when if I were to open  a faucet in the home instead.
Thanks for any pointers.
Sam

Well it depends on the system most pressure reducing valves or regulators are there to prevent problems on the customer side , 60-80 psi is normal and most faucets can Handel this pressure.
I have seen 120 psi city pressure , without a pressure reducing valve or regulator there will be problems or earlier failures.
Is it time to replace OR repair your regulator
It sounds like a repair could take care of your problems for less than a replacement


Pilot light on switch comes on when light is off First off I know the switch the works I plugged it into a different circuit where I have another one and the pilot light turned on when the switch was on. However when I have it installed in the problem circuit the indicator light is switched and is illuminated when the light is off instead of it being illuminated when the light is on.

The circuit is for the downstairs lights in an older building so I am thinking it has to be something with how the lights are wired. The switch works the lights just fine so I am figuring it is something to do with the neutral side. I am unfamiliar with this light switch and how it works internally.

What would make the light come on one way in one circuit and opposite in another? I am unsure the exact brand I am an amateur electrician just helping a friend, but it is similar to the Leviton 15 Amp Combination Switch with 25-Watt Neon Pilot Light found on the home depot website. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated

With pilot switches, you can get any combination you want, simply by wiring it differently.

Top: the pilot is on when the switch/light is on.
Middle: The pilot is on always.
Bottom: The pilot is on when the switch/light is off.  However, this works by leaking power through the bulb.  So it only works if the bulb is not burned out, and is able to tolerate this leakage (incandescents can for sure.)

In these drawings, ground is omitted for clarity, neutral is white, always-hot is black, and switched-hot is red for clarity.   The internal arrangement of the pilot switch is shown, so you can see why it works.

Note also the "upper right terminal" in my drawings.  See how it serves both the switch and the light.  In some pilot switches, this actually comes out to two screws on the side of the pilot switch with this side considered "common". In that case, the "sides" on your switch won't be in the same places, not that they ever are.


Why is there a live and a neutral in a wall connector? I get the ground. Since you can plug the plug in either way there is no way for the appliance to know what's in what wire, right?

Hot and neutral are the supply and return lines.  Ground/earth is a safety line and does not normally handle current flow.

What defines a neutral is that some effort has been made to keep it near earth potential.  It is not quite at earth potential** and neutral is not ground.

Now, some plugs and receptacles are polarized, either by virtue of differing pins (the wide blade on NEMA 1), or simply a side effect of having a third grounding pin not inline.  In that case, the appliance knows which pin is neutral, and can be designed internally with that in mind.  The classic example is a screw-in bulb fixture; the easily-touched outer shell of the socket is made neutral, and the harder-to-reach tip is "hot" and also switched.

If its plug is not polarized (Schuko, GU10, GU24), most likely the appliance is required to comply with a higher insulation standard, so the appliance will be nominally safe even if the prongs are reversed.

** and sometimes more than a little not at earth potential


Replacing outdoor outlet How can I replace an outdoor outlet cover that has a stripped center screw?

Do I need to replace the outlet as well?
Do I need to replace the box that the outlet is housed in if it is coming out from the wall?
Do I need to caulk around where the outlet and the wall will meet?

Here is a picture of the outlet.

I have purchased a Bell outdoor In-Use Weatherproof Cover, that I would like to use to replace the existing cover.

Update:

I have finished the project, and Bryce's answer was correct. I did end up replacing the outlet with a GFCI Weather/Tamper Resitant outlet for safety sake. Below are two tips and lessons learned.

When removing wires from existing outlet, if a firm tug doesn't do it, then try twisting the outlet or wire.
Never try to keep turning a screw after the head breaks off, which led to me asking a different question.

This style center screw extends into the outlet: it's possible both parts need replacing.  Pull on the cover to add tension when removing the stripped screw.

Turn off the juice before taking the cover off.

Your new 'in service' cover comes with a foam gasket: do not use caulk.

Your existing box is probably fine, but when things are open evaluate if caulking is needed around the box (not the cover, the wall box).

But this is outdoors, right?  That outlet should be 'GFCI' protected.  And for that I recommend you hire a professional, or find a handy neighbor/friend/relative. Typically a GFCI outlet is placed right in the box, and it uses one large square opening, not the style shown in the picture. Other configurations are possible.


Can I use a 2-wire NM cable staple on 3-wire cable? I have a package of Gardner 1/2 inch staples and the package shows that they are good for 2-wire, see below:

I am running some 14/3 wire (flat) wire for AC hardwired smoke detectors but these staples are all I have on hand. I've stapled the 14/3 using these and the 1/2 inch is just enough to fit the wire without pinching it. I can even slide the wire back and forth fairly easily. FWIW, I read the package after stapling about 100 feet of wire. See below for an example:

Is it necessary to use 3/4 inch staples instead? What is the hazard associated with using the 1/2 inch staples? I'm not sure how much copper expands when heated but I can't imagine that it would outgrow the 1/2 inch. Is it more of an issue that people tend to pinch and/or impale the wire while hammering so the 3/4 inch is an attempt to reduce errors? I can definitely see the need for using 3/4 inch for 12/3 wire but I haven't run any.

My walls are currently wide open so if I should be using the 3/4 inch staples then right now would be the best time for me to make things "right".

Additionally, can I use the 3/4 inch staples for 2-wire? I'd rather simplify the contents of my electrical bag.

The problem is that the staples are UL listed for the wire sizes shown on the package. Technically, you'd need the 3/4" staples.


Are there LED lamps available for ovens? The only place I now use an incandescent bulb is in my oven. It went out the other day and I was looking for a replacement. I am using LED all over these days but realized it may not be possible to use LEDs in a heated environment like an oven. Is that the case, or are there LED bulbs for that now also?

As already stated, LEDs can't take the heat. In addition:

Many ovens use halogen bulbs instead of "ordinary" incandescent bulbs. These are a type of incandescent light with two key differences: size and heat.
The size is irrelevant for most ordinary lamps but great for an oven, where you want something small so that it won't take away from valuable interior cooking space.
The heat is a huge problem for ordinary lamps, to the extent that there were major recalls/design changes many years ago because of halogen lamps setting curtains and other stuff on fire, resulting in metal grid covers for those lamps and eventually they disappeared altogether in favor of much more efficient CFL and then LED lamps. But heat is perfectly fine in an oven, where you have a high-but-regulated temperature. If you have the light on while cooking and it puts a few extra watts of heat into the oven, the element will turn off a few seconds earlier and the net energy usage is a big fat 0.

In general with any lighting system, the efficiency is a balance between light and heat. All the energy not turned into light becomes heat. In an oven that is perfectly fine and useful instead of wasteful. For an extreme example of this, where the light bulb is the heating element, see the Easy Bake Oven. In fact, for a conventional electric oven, heat generated from a light bulb is essentially the same efficiency as heat generated from heating elements. Where energy usage is a bit different is with microwave ovens and gas ovens.


Toilet gushed water! Last week, my toilet gushed water out between where the bottom of the bowl connects with the toilet drain pipe, while I was flushing it. It was so bad I had to turn off the supply valve before it finished flushing. Long story short, I mopped up and then unplugged the toilet. Ever since then, my 3 1/2 GPF 1977 vintage Colton toilet has worked fine. What baffles me is that when a toilet plugs up, it normally OVERflows over the bowl rim. But this time, it “UNDERflowed”(actually gushed under) between the bottom of the bowl, and the top of the toilet drain pipe, directly onto the bathroom floor. This is bizarre! Doesn’t that mean that the seal between the the bowl and the drain pipe was blown? But if that were the case, why has water not even leaked, (much less gushed) out of there since? I have since stopped putting orange pulp gristle in the bowl as I think that may be what plugged it up.

Also, this is the perfect time for me to get one of those new “low flow” dual flush toilets that only consume 1.6-1.28 GPF to conserve water. I would like to get one with the same footprint that my present toilet (see photo)has, so that I don’t have to re-tile. Does anybody have any recommendations for a new toilet?

You may have a compromised seal between the toilet and the flange (where the toilet connects to your drain piping). This seal is usually done with a wax ring and can deform due to aggressive plunger-ing or movement of the toilet relative to the flange, such as when the bolts are loose and the toilet wobbles.

When your drain is working normally, that seal does not need to do much - the drain pipe is wide open and the easiest place for water to flow is down that drain like we want.

However if the drain pipe is clogged, then liquid may build up against the seal until the clog is removed. This is where you'll see a leak along the floor and/or on the ceiling below. That would be consistent with your story.

You should replace the wax ring. You will have to remove and reattach a toilet, so you're right that if you want to change the toilet this would be a good time to do so. Also, tile usually extends to just around the flange, so you usually don't need to match your existing toilet's footprint.


Are 2x4 rafters legal in Connecticut? 13 ft runs so I bought a REO house and about to redo the roof above the garage.
I've noticed that I need to replace some rafters.
However - I'm seeing that rafter are 2x4...

Is that code-legal?

p.s. by 13 ft - I also count the length it protrudes to the outside of the wall.

Certainly not by current building standards. I'm not familiar with the snow load factor that is used in Connecticut, but if it's the 40 PSF that I suspect you would need 2x6s, possibly 2x8s.  Note that the span measurement goes from the peak of the roof to the wall parallel to the ground, not along the slope of the roof, so I can't give you an exact answer without a better measurement.

Side note: The more immediate concern is that it doesn't look like there are any rafter or collar ties at all visible in the photo you posted.  Unless the roof ridge is structural (i.e. a beam sized for a cathederal ceiling the size of the garage and posted to the foundation), the roof is going to have a strong tendency to pancake and put outward thrust on the tops of the walls.

You can address both problems by installing rafter and collar ties, and then adding purlins starting about half way down the roof deck.  Basically what you would be doing is converting the existing roof framing into trusses.  That said, it would likely be a lot easier (and likely cheaper if the roof deck also needs to be replaced) to reframe it.


Are leather safety gloves washable? Are these gloves washable? If not how do I clean them?

Leather and/or pigskin gloves are washable:

knock loose dirt/soil from them
while still wearing them, apply a dollop of mild dishwashing soap to the palm of one glove then rub them together with cold water and rinse; a brush can be used for extreme soiling
lay them out flat to dry, indoors or out (do not machine dry them)
the washing/drying process can make them stiff so after they are dry, apply saddle oil, Neet's Foot oil, mineral oil, saddle soap, or some type of oil that won't go rancid. This will make them supple again.

A good pair of leather gloves will last for years if you take care of them.


Safe assembly of antique Italian four poster bed frame I've assembled this bed frame and am not sure how to make it sturdy enough for use.
I have this 100+ year-old Italian bed frame that I've inherited from my parents. They used it for decades and it felt safe and sturdy growing up. Unfortunately they can't remember much about how it was assembled and I haven't been able to find any other info about the bed.
The construction is straightforward: the left/right sides have notches that fit into recesses in the posters flanking the front and rear sides of the frame; each notch is paired with a metal bolt that pushes into a hole next to the notched recess; the top is a single piece with holes at each corner which the four posters slot into.
I can get the notches to fit flush with the posters if I push hard enough, but the whole bed is shaky and comes loose easily when moved. There's nothing holding the pieces together besides the slightly loose notches and bolts. I was hoping the top piece would stabilize it but it did not help much. The remaining parts are particle boards and slats that sit along the shelves on the left/right sides – could placing these and adding the mattress make the difference somehow with the downwards force?
Besides specific solutions, I'm also interested in knowing how to seek expert help on safely assembling this (I live in Toronto if that's relevant). I also wonder if there are ways to reinforce it – like adding ratchet straps around the circumference until I can get it sturdy enough through other means.

3rd pic down, that gap proves it is not assembled correctly. Clamp it to get rid of the gap and then tighten the bolt.
A spanish windlass would work for this. A long rope goes round the bed frame 4 times then a bar is used to twist the 4 strands and tighten.
Protect the wood as the rope can cause a huge load and damage it.


Hot water heater T&P discharge going into furnace condensate pump? I recently had some electrical work done at my house, and as part of that, the power was shut off. After a few minutes, we noticed water coming from the closet containing the hot water heater and furnace. There was a slow and steady trickle of water coming out of the condensate pump, and we could feel the heat in the discharge line connecting the pump to the t&p valve.

The next day, I talked to two different plumbers about this. One said that line should be going to a drain, but there's no drain in my basement. The other said it was ok for that line to be connected to the pump, but there should be a shut-off valve on the hot water side of the heater.

Who (if any) is right? I'm most interested in what would be considered up to code in Pennsylvania. Since that's a vague question, I'll also ask a specific one: what's the best thing for me to do to ensure the next time I lose power, my basement doesn't slowly flood?

Edit: because a picture is worth a thousand words.

If the T&P relief valve opens for most reason it is designed for, (over pressure or over temperature) the  water flow can be a slow trickle or could be a fast and sometimes violent event. If it is a slow trickle, the pump will handle the water but if it a quick discharge there is going to be a lot of water flow. As far as the valve on the hot water side of the heater, I have no idea how that will alleviate any of your problems, unless i do not understand it's function. Without a drain in the basement, I would not store anything in that area that could be harmed by water. If the water heater's T&P valve is flowing a small amount of water you need to find out why this is happening. If it leaks all the time you may need a PRV to limit the water pressure in the house or the T&P valve may be worn out and need to be replaced, and if happens only when you use hot water and the water is being reheated , you may need to have an  expansion tank installed to accept the expanded water as it is being reheated.


Fixture Pan for 3/8 drywall - do they exist? I am installing a sconce pancake box in a bedroom. The plan was to put the sconce over a stud with one of these.

All lined up and 4" hole cut, and then I realized I am working with 3/8 drywall (the pan box is 5/8).

I was curious if anyone has seen a fixture pan with a depth of 3/8" before; do they exist?

I am pretty sure that I could technically allow non-metallic boxes to stick out 1/4" on non-fire rated walls, but that's ugly; the spot I cut out is perfect so if it's possible to salvage, that would be optimal.

Thanks!

If it's a non-loadbearing wall, you can safely drill 1/4 inch deeper into the stud and then chisel out in-between.

Pancake boxes are already at a minimum size for connections, a 3/8 box couldn't be rated for connections by the NEC.  Each connection needs 2 cubic inches of volume ( 1 cu-in per wire), so the 4inch diameter by 1/2 inch pancake box is rated at 6 cu-in, just enough for one 14/2 wire.  12/2 or a splice would not be permitted in that box.


Connect two sheet materials with no access to other side I want to make a connection between to thin sheet materials that can be disassambled. Seems easy enough, right? Just use nut bolt and washers. The problem is that when the connection is made there is no hand access to other side to hold the nut. I cannot make a thread too. Is there any better solution that glue the bolt to other side ? Maybe someone has already invented a type of one-side-locking-bolt? The connection does not need be super strong. The this is a lid or cover of some sort, imagine a light car hood.

Oftentimes a riv-nut can be used. Similar to a rivet, it is installed from one side and fastened with a special tool. It is internally threaded such that a machine screw or bolt may be used. $22 US for kit including tool and "threaded inserts" at discount tool supplier:


Fan in (UK) fan oven scraping against heating element I have a fan oven at home that's only a few years old. About six months ago it started intermittently emitting a horrific sound, that I was able to trace to the fan at the back of the oven scraping against the heating element that surrounds it.

Closer inspection suggested that the heating element had warped, so I bought a replacement online and fitted it.

So far so good, until a few weeks ago when the same sound started. Same problem, but this time I'm just not able to get the heating element into a sensible position.

The photo below shows (with a panel removed) where the heating element is scraping against the fan (Note that this photo was taken after I had fitted the new element, and all was well).

The small screw in the bottom-right corner allows for (limited) adjustment of the shape of the heating element.

And there are three clips that hold the two windings of the heating element in position with respect to one another (one of which also has the adjustment screw mentioned above attached).

The heating element is attached to the back of the oven by the flat silver plate in the top-left corner, and there's no scope for adjustment there.

Can anyone suggest what is going on here? How roughly can I attempt to manoeuvre the element into position before I damage it?

It sounds like the problem might be with the fan. You may need to access the fan from the back (outside) of the oven; or maybe to access the fan you would unscrew the screws circled in red.

Edit- If the fan is not the problem (and the warranty is expired) then I would order a couple more of those retaining clips. If the clips don't come with screws, then you could probably use high temperature screws (like for stoves).

Edit2- Manuvering the element while is it hot and pliable would be the best way to avoid cracking it. Generally speaking, this is kinda dangerous; if you do this you should be prepared. Have a friend ready to call for an ambulence. Of course you should wear gloves. And if you don't get hurt, you might still need to order a new element.

But (that being said) you could try heating it up and manipulating it with a couple pairs of pliers or channel locks.  After repositioning the element and allowing it to cool off, you would then intall the extra clips.

Edit 3 if the price for the element is cheap, then I would get another element rather than try to fix the old one... or if you tell them it warped after a couple weeks, they might give you a new one or some kind of discount.


Black and Decker 18V Battery I put my 18V Black and Decker Battery on the charger yesterday and the red light is still blinking. Is this normal?

Two things. The battery is no longer charging or the battery charger no longer meters output from the charger circuit for a match with the battery voltage.
If you can borrow a charger you can check the battery charging capability. If not start with a new battery.


Identify flexible metal tubing and connector I need to replace a water-tight tube, but what was used before eludes me. It's from a home made hot water handling system I inherited.

It seems like flexible aluminum conduit, but the ribs are concentric, not a spiral. See first image.

The connector is a stainless threaded nut and washer but, but it seems to be retained by a crimping flat of the tubing's rings.  See second picture.

So that suggests I can't just replace with flexible conduit. None of the conduit connectors seem to match, either.

Any idea what material this is? Or for what intended usage, so that I could try to find a compatible solution?

Flex tube for connecting a water heater, almost certainly not Aluminum.

Here's an image from Lowes website of a kit with two of them for less than $30 (no affiliation other than occasionally shopping for stuff the orange box does not have at the far less conveniently located blue box.)

Stainless steel, supposedly. And it's plumbing, not electrical.


Which kitchen appliances can be grouped on the same circuit? I couldn't find a direct up-to-date answer. For example the comments on this answer contradict each other.
So, which of the following kitchen appliances are allowed to be grouped onto the same 20A circuit (USA)?

Fridge
Microwave (built-in)
Range hood
Dishwasher
Garbage disposer
Under-cabinet lights

It's pretty much all dependent on wattage
For the five kitchen appliances (and one lighting system) described in your post, the answer boils down entirely to wattage/amperage draw, as there are no specific requirements in the NEC for any of them to be on dedicated circuits; the fridge could be on a small appliance (kitchen countertop receptacle) branch circuit, and the remaining appliances can be on individual circuits or combined together as wattage permits; likewise, while the undercabinet lights can't be on a kitchen countertop circuit, they can go on any general lighting and appliance branch circuit that has the wattage to spare.
However, there are some constraints.  Dishwashers, disposals, and microwaves all tend to be power-hungry beasts, meaning that you're going to have a hard time fitting even two of the three on the same branch circuit, and putting all three together on a single circuit is a non-starter.  The fridge is the other constraint; if it's not on a kitchen countertop branch circuit, it must be on its own circuit, not a general lighting circuit.  Given all this, I would look at pairing the dishwasher and disposal, if feasible, and also at putting the range hood and the undercabinet lights on the same circuit, given that you don't need a colossal commercial-style range hood to deal with domestic cooking needs, even if you have a jumbo range.  (Commercial hoods are as beastly as they are because they have to keep air pollutants within OSHA limits throughout a restaurant cook's eight-hour shift despite near-continuous use of the appliance beneath them.)  The microwave and fridge then wind up on their own circuits.
As to wiring methods, while there's nothing in Code that depends on that factor, the judicious use of individual THHN wires in ENT conduit ("smurf tube") can provide a major upgradeability benefit down the road.  This is particularly handy in hard-to-upgrade spots, like when feeding the dishwasher and disposal, or for kitchen islands for that matter.  You'll also have to make sure that you don't violate the 80% maximum total load rule for fixed cord-and-plug loads and the 50% maximum total load rule for fixed hardwired loads on convenience circuits (i.e. circuits that serve receptacles and/or lighting).


Laminate flooring direction in large room My room is 24x42
Estetically I'd like the planks to run long
It's a good quality laminate that is floating

I'm told that if I go long, it's too long and will require a seam. (Ugly!)

So I'm advised to lay planks the short way

Ideas? Suggestions? Feedback?

You might want to consider a different laminate or switch to engineered wood.  Found this install instruction for laminate and it does mention adding an expansion joint for larger rooms.  Max room size before expansion is 33' for the panel length and 26' for the panel width.  Switching the panels to run on the short side of the room is not going to help since it will still require an expansion gap in the middle.


How much overlap should bypass doors have? I want to hang bypass doors in the closets. The finished opening is 48". Do I use 2 24" doors and leave gap on each end or do I use a 24 and a 26 for the overlap so they look even, or 2 26ers

You want the doors to overlap a bit. You also want the two doors to be the same width so when they are slid all the way to one side or the other that they are even.

A one inch overlap is about ideal so for a 48" finished opening each door would be 24.5 inches wide.

Two 24" doors would not overlap at all and would not stay fully engaged into the center guide on the floor.

Doors wider than 24.5" would work just fine but you loose access width when the doors are open.

My suggestion is that you may want to look at bi-fold doors. These would take four ~12" wide door panels. They work with one track at the top and eliminate the center guide on the floor. When open you get much much easier access to the closet than with bypass doors. Plus when closed the whole surface is flat. The only time I consider bypass doors is when mirrored doors are used to give a smaller room a more expansive look.


Quite high pitched noise in room When I'm trying to sleep I hear a high pitched, ringing noise. I can only hear it if everything else is quiet. I've considered if this is a medical issue, such as tinnitus, but before jumping to conclusions I would like to check the room itself for sources of noise. Are there any tools available for doing that? I installed an app on my smartphone for measuring the sound level, but I don't think it's very accurate.

I know my baseboard heater sometimes squeals but I turn it off and can still hear the noise. Also my computers power supply sometimes whine but I tried unplugging it.

Why don't I just go somewhere really quiet to see if I can still hear the noise in my ear so I can find out if it's a medical problem or really is the house? There actually aren't as many places as quiet as the bedroom (but if you have any suggestions let me know). I've tried going to a library but even the shuffling around of people is nosier than my bedroom at night.

I'm guessing it's the opposite (or same) reason as this question.

Some libraries have a listing room, you could try that but I don't think it's going to work. You have to be 'getting ready for bedtime'.

Until your brain shuts down enough, it strains to adapt its sensitivity to the room level. I'd say this happens to everyone, except I'm biased as a percussionist of many years. That's not to say my ears are all messed up; I hear digital noise (cell phones/video games) as if they were church bells going off and I can still detect a considerable Hz range for my age. (Anecdote: after his chemo treatment, a friend of mine couldn't hear above 14kHz.)

Some LED night lights whine like crazy. As do dimmers and the lights they dim.

Try a white noise generator. I prefer computers; it's way too quiet with mine off. For me when it happens, it seems to persist the more I concentrate on it, but it goes away as soon as any ambient noise is introduced.

Accurately capturing room noise is one of the holy grails of audio recording. I doubt that you have the means at your disposal to do so.

What Technique do you use for Room Tone recording?

  David Toop says the emptier the space of sound, the greater the apparent volume of sounds within it; the lower the level of auditory background, the more intense the listener’s awareness of minimal interferences.

But this is something different, I think. I'd have to read that entire wiki to see if there's something similar; temporary affects that induce tinnitus. Also (rhetorically), how old are you?

Subjective, indeed. Even now with two computers on, (stop) thinking about it so much; I hear it creeping on...


Layered with crushed stone for concrete slab, but heavy rain came We just got done compacting dirt, filling with 3/4" crushed stones and compacted it again ready to pour concrete. However, extremely heavy rain came.
These guys are telling me they really just need a couple of days to dry before pouring with concrete, but I just wanted to do some DD before I commit.
Firstly, has anything been ruined because of the rain timing? Will the heavy rain affect the integrity of the slab once it's in? Would I have to compact it again or start over?
Or does it actually benefit because the water might help settle the stones more? The dirt has a high clay content.
And how long should I wait until we pour concrete?

If the gravel is that thick it would need to be compacted to keep it from settling over time. It should be done in stages (lifts). Add a layer, tamp that then add a layer and tamp that until it reaches the height needed. An engineer provides this type of info regarding how much gravel at a time for each lift. I know this is not what you asked, but it is good to know.
With that in mind, I do not understand why the wait on the pour since the gravel is so deep, and the contractor is just using that as an excuse. Perhaps it will put his schedule behind if he did your job the next day. He is most likely going to the other jobs he already had scheduled for the next few days until he gets a new opportunity to pour your slab