Assuming you can go either way, is it better to install a Multi-split or multiple Split Air Conditioners? For 2 bedrooms and 1 living room, and assuming you have the flexibility for both options and the total output is the same, is it  better to install a Multi-Split 3x1 Air Con System (3 interior units / 1 exterior unit), or to install 3 separate Split Air Con Systems (3 interior units / 3 exterior units)?

Also, which setup is generally more energy-efficient?

There are three issues here, which system is better, which system is more energy-efficient and which system is more reliable.

The first issue encompasses all aspects and involves a priority ranking which only you can do.

An issue not brought up by anyone else is the installation. Do you have room for 3 outside units? Does it matter if more space is used or would you prefer to use that space for landscaping or something else?

What about electrical power? Will the installer need to run 3 circuits, one for each compressor? Does your existing breaker panel have the room for 3 circuits?

Another installation consideration: which system is easier to run the linesets (tubes which carry the liquid and gas freon) for?

I expect 3 compressors to cost more than one big compressor. Have you gotten any price quotes?

The one big compressor, assuming it is capable of variable speed, will certainly be more significantly more efficient under anything less than full load because the condenser of a single outdoor unit system has three times the cooling area of a single condenser in a 3 unit system which means the compressor motor doesn't have to work as hard.

The major factor in power consumption is turning the freon back into a liquid and that depends on how fast/easily the condenser can cool it off. All else being equal, a bigger condenser is better (removes the heat faster).

The faster you condense the freon, the less back pressure on the compressor and the less work for the motor.

Most of the time you will not be running full load or all indoor units at once. Even during full load, the big unit will never be less efficient.

The last question is reliability and available. One answer correctly claims that a 3 unit system will be more available but neglects to mention that it will also be more prone to failure because you have more units to fail and each unit is more likely to be run at full capacity while the big unit will usually be running well below its full capacity. Imagine the lifetime of two cars, one run at 90 MPH and one run at 30 MPH.


Is it ok to use cable with a distorted sheath? I’ve been doing wiring with nmd90 14/2. At one point I noticed a small section of the wire (more specific, then outer sheath) is somewhat distorted. At first I thought it might have been just how I pulled. No as I continue to string more wire I’m seeing it more often.
I went to the spool to check wire that I had not yet pulled, and see that the sheath is like this right from the spool. I’m half way through a 250’ spool and as I work, I start questioning if there are safety concern.
Attached is a picture, although somewhat hard to see. It’s like the outer sheath isn’t formed around the wires. Other than that, the sheath is normal. It looks like this distortion is about every 10 to 15 feet.
Should this be something to worry about?

You can massage it with your fingers to straighten it out, and make sure when you nail or clamp it that it is flat and not on edge.
As long as it is not cut or chafed or bent sharply it should be fine.
Although it suggests something happened at the factory or in storage, it is still correctly insulated.
To be certain you could call the manufacturer and ask them if there is a recall for that production.


Locating buried electrical cable/conduit in yard Our house, which we purchased about a year ago, has a shed in the back of the yard which has electricity and is roughly 100 ft away from the main house. From what I can tell the previous owner had cable run to the shed through a conduit that exits the house at the closest exterior corner. I see the same conduit exiting the house and entering the shed.

My problem is that I have no idea what path the previous owner took to run the cable out to the shed, or if the conduit is even at code rated depth, and we're looking to do some landscaping and possible run a water line out near the shed. I'm assuming 811 isn't going to locate privately run cables in the ground, so is there a tool or service I can use for this? Just based on the unknowns I would prefer to stay away from the conduit entirely.

Step zero - to reduce any nerves associated with digging, turn off the breaker supplying the shed at the house end.

Step one - assume a straight line from the endpoints you can see, as the most likely path in many cases. Dig a little bit, carefully, along the conduit as it enters the ground, and see if the direction it points underground matches up.

Step two - very carefully go prospecting along the straight line. Try close to one end and dig with a trowel or very gently with a shovel, looking to see if they were smart enough to put "buried electric line below" tape in the top of the trench. Not would be no surprise, having it would be a helpful and pleasant surprise. You'll also get a sense of the depth, and whether they used conduit the whole way or not. You may also see a different backfilling (soil type) the immediate area of the conduit, which you can use as a clue later.

Step three - go further out and dig again - go to the middle if step two supports the "straight line" path.

Alternate step one - hire a private contractor to trace the line, or try renting equipment to do the same yourself. It's tricky enough to use (sorting out confusing signals, etc.) that the experienced operator might be better, but DIY can work. Check with your tool rental place.  Something like location service might be a heading to look for a contractor, or you might ask the irrigation folks if they know who to call.


Standard height refrigerator outlet What is the standard height for a refrigerator outlet?
Thanks for your help!

36” allows you to plug it in and keeps the cord off the floor so you don’t push the refrigerator on top of the cord when you push it back.


Should a entire bathroom circuit run from a GFCI outlet I have a bathroom that is on its own circuit that feeds power from the panel to a GFCI receptacle and then feeds 2 lights and the bathroom fan.

So if the GFCI trips the lights and the fan goes out as well. I think this is OK, but I want to confirm there is no code violation. I am in Canada.

That very typically happens when Goober wires it. (I don't know who Goober's Canadian cousin is, maybe Joe Gongshow?)

Joe hooks it up, and goes "hey, what do I do with these extra wires?  Oh look, 2 more screws under this warning tape I did not read".

Things should only be put on the LOAD screws if you really want to provide GFCI protection to them.  Otherwise, the LINE screws usually are able to accept 2 wires via screw-and-clamp.

Lights and fans do not need to be on GFCI unless they are inside the shower.


Messy tile/wood floor transition (PICTURES) I'm troubleshooting this transition between a new level floor on the right and an uneven tile (the tile in the front of the picture is about 1/2" higher than the tile in the back of the picture) floor on the left of the picture. I've had one contractor suggest floor leveler but I'd like to keep the new floor flat and not spread the problem into the new room.

Another contractor suggested putting in new tile to between the existing tile and new wood to make up the unevenness.

The width of the space between the tile and the edge of the new plywood floor is about 4 inches.

Any tips or ideas?

One idea I had was a thick grout joint between the two and coloring it somehow to be the color of the wood. Or a really thick T-mold that is a bit flexible. Neither of these ideal but this situation is less than ideal to begin with.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

With all the various pieces that make up the sub floor, I would not run tile over any of that. I would use the wood floor all the way up to meet the tile leaving a grout joint's width away from the wood floor to tile. With the wall and tile meeting on the far side, esthetically it may be best to finish the tile there anyway. You may even choose to redo the subfloor in that area to get rid of the small pieces that make up the surface in that area.

When the floor is sanded, the wood floor that is higher than the tile, if any, can be sanded down if it is a stained/finished in place floor. The floor can be shimmed to get it higher if need be also. This looks like a pretty long run, the wood floor can twist slightly to accommodate the different planes. In the case that it may be a prefinished floor, shimming is still done the same, but if the wood floor is above the tile, then the flooring is planed down on the backside, keeping the prefinished side intact, and glued down if need be, since the chance of having a blind nail or staple holding it down is diminished.

Edit 6-24-13

Since this is a cased opening, You can treat this 2 ways either will give you what you need.

My preference, since the wall is not that far away, would to shim the floor all the way and graduate it out to zero. With a 1/2" needed, the shims will need to be about 4' long, made with a table saw. I can describe an easy way to do that if you need, I can whip out enough to place these shims 3" apart over a 8' run in about a half hour, setting them would take about another hour, and you would need to run your floor over it immediately! But first, you need to check the floor to see if it can handle an extra 1/2" incline. If the floor is level in that direction, yes. If the floor is not level, favoring being made more level by adding the shims, definitely yes. But if the floor is already running the way that exacerbates the incline, well, that will need to be studied to determine the pros and cons. You will be surprised though, how far a floor can be out of whack and not show up until a piece of furniture, or other detail is added to make a thing like that show up.

The second way is while you are fixing the subfloor issue is to bring it up to the height needed to get things to plane into the tile floor. Make all your saw cuts 1 1/2"+ away from any finish or frame to add backing/blocking to tie the new subfloor back together with the existing using glue and screws to fasten it together. If this brings the floor out of level, it would not be good for future renovations.

In my opinion, I would not use a grout joint to make up the 1/4" difference in the finish. When you approach the tile floor from the wood floor side, the joints in the main run of the floor would look much smaller than the joint you made to make the 1/4" difference, since the joint will be facing you, because it is sloped in that direction.


Can I use tile sealant in place of grout? We placed our tile in mortar using the recommended tool and it squished up higher than intended and dried in the grooves of the tile sides because I ended up in the ER at the time it was supposed to be cleaned out. We have been trying to scrape mortar out of the mosaic tiles but it is extremely difficult. We thought about options, ie. Scraping mortar, ( how best to do so, I don't know. The tiles are as small as 3/4 inch, a daunting task), using a tile sealing caulk in place of grout since there is not much grout, tearing the whole thing out and starting over(the least desirable. Suggestions?

This happens on every tile install at least a little. There's nothing wrong with some mortar squishing out. Now, if it's over the top of the tiles, that's another issue. If you think there's room for a caulking/grouted/sealant, then there's likely room for grout.

You can use a sealant in place of grout, but from my experience having done this before, the sealant attracts dirt which seems to stick to it vs. grout where you can just sweep dirt off your tiles. Also, the sealant is less durable to foot traffic and wear and it's a huge pain to put in.

Grout is just colored/sanded cement. It will adhere to your mortar that is already there. No one will be able to tell unless maybe you want white grout and your mortar is grey. I'd just use grout anyway and see how well it covers. And if you really think you need to remove some of the mortar from between tiles, you will make your life a lot easier by using a multi-tool with the proper vibrating blade attachment which is made for masonry. You can get a carbide masonry blade that will fit most of the common multi-tools. It's meant for grout removal, but it may help a lot for your situation as well if the mortar is sticking up really high.


240 to 120 for bedroom outlets So I am redoing a very old house that had two central heat and air units. One of the units was discontinued and is no longer in use. there is a 240v breaker next to it. my question is can I put a new breaker in that box and use it as a 120v for some outlets in a bedroom. Thanks for any constructive help.

Yes, you can. Chances are that you have a white wire connected to one of the terminals of the old 240-volt breaker, and you can repurpose it to neutral. When you put in the new 120-volt breaker, connect the black wire to the breaker terminal and the white to the neutral bus bar, removing any black tape on the white wire. Replace the 240-volt receptacles with 120-volt receptacles.


What is the cross-sectional area of solid, 14 AWG THHN wire? I have found that stranded 14 AWG THHN is 6.258 sq mm, but I am having a hard time finding the value for solid 14 AWG THHN.  I keep seeing 2.08 sq mm, but I find it hard to believe that the cross-sectional area of stranded THHN is ~3 times larger than solid THHN.

BTW, I am using these figures to calculate maximum conduit fill as allowed by the NEC specs.  If you are interested, I have created a conduit fill calculator using Google Sheets.  You are more than welcome to use it.  Just make a copy of the spreadsheet first.

NEC Chapter 9, Table 8 shows 2.08 mm² is the CSA of bare solid #14 awg, and stranded is 2.68 mm².

But those numbers are just the CSA of the copper. You need to use the CSA including insulation, which varies with type of insulation. Those are found in Chapter 9, Table 5, in which you find #14 varies from 3.548 to 18.90 mm².


Will having reversed hot and cold damage my faucet? On our old kitchen tap handles, the cold is on the left side and hot on the right. The new taps are the exact opposite, cold being on the right and hot on the left side. Is it okay to just connect them as they are as long as we, obviously, remember what side the cold and hot are on? Can it ruin anything like the cold water hose/pipes, etc.?

The biggest risk is someone being burned.  In North America, cold should always be on the right side and hot on the left.  If you are outside of this region you should check with local standards.

It sounds like you either bought a faucet from a different region, or maybe your original faucet was installed backwards.

With regards to the actual plumbing, it shouldn't make a difference which side you are hooked up to.


Sink pivot rod is stuck, appears to be attached to sink stopper I removed the pivot rod nut but the pivot will not come out like is shown on many videos.  The pivot rod appears to be attached to the sink stopper, I can feel tension on the sink stopper when trying to remove the rod, any ideas?.

It may have a chunk of hair on it wiggle up and down while pulling out. Be prepared to pull the trap as everything stuck on this shaft will possibly slip down 1 wife , 3 girls , 6 granddaughters and all but one has very long hair , I have to clean drains in my current house all the time I liked my 3 bath house better I did not have to do it so often.


How can I diagnose disturbing voltage potentials? Earlier today, I read Acceptable ground to neutral voltage?, and thought it'd be fun to stick my multimeter in the socket and have a voltage to report back. Neutral to ground read 60 volts. My head went into a bit of alarm. Yet, I can't find the answer just yet.

My apartment is old... as in it has a coal door and electricity wasn't an original feature. The basement has very old circuit breaker boxes and almost all of the structural wiring down there is old school fabric insulated wire on ceramic knob and tube wiring. It seems likely that most outlets don't have a real ground. All of them are GFCI branches.

The following measurements are all digital multimeter outputs.

Bedroom

Hot <-> Neutral:     118 volts
Hot <-> Ground:      60 volts
Neutral <-> Ground:  60 volts
GFCI: trips internally, does not trip externally

Shorting neutral to ground with a 1 amp fuse did not cause the fuse to blow. Inserting a plug tester resulted in the middle light being solid and the two outer lights flickering. Hot to neutral measures 60hz. Other combinations vary wildly into the khz region.

Bathroom

Hot <-> Neutral:     118 volts
Hot <-> Ground:      80 volts
Neutral <-> Ground:  15 volts
Sink <-> Ground:     15 volts
Sink <-> Hot:        113 volts
Sink <-> Neutral:    0 volts
GFCI: trips internally, does not trip externally

Kitchen

Works properly. Measured resistance between ground and sink is 450k ohms. Hot carries proper voltage to neutral, ground, and sink. No voltage neutral to ground or sink, or ground to sink.

The question

Can anyone make sense of these readings?!

Further testing

Ground <-> disconnected 50ft length of extension cord:  24 volts
Ground <-> disconnected 50ft length of extension cord:  17-21 volts

Bedroom ground <-> kitchen ground:                      60 volts
Bedroom ground <-> water pipe:                          60 volts
Bedroom hot <-> water pipe:                             0 volts
Bedroom neutral <-> water pipe:                         113 volts

Bedroom hot <-> water pipe:                             2.8 mega ohms
Bedroom neutral <-> water pipe:                         lower and wildly varying
Bedroom ground <-> water pipe:                          OL / unmeasurable ohms

Sooooo... I currently guess that I probably have hot & neutral reversed through most of the house and ground is unbonded. I still can't figure out the 60 (15, 80) volt readings though unless it's capacitive (re: voltage read across disconnected wires). I suppose I'll get my hands on an analog meter to test with next.

From all this, I conclude the following is likely:

Only the outlet in the kitchen next to the sink is properly wired.
All other outlets have hot and neutral reversed.
There is no ground connection.
Unexpected observed voltages (mostly 60 volts) are caused by stray capacitance.

I'll mark it accepted when I get complete confirmation.

Outlets need to have their hot and neutral corrected. Outlets need to be grounded or labelled as "GFCI protected" and "no equipment ground."

Fluctuating voltage from the actually hot line to true ground (the water pipe) is caused by current flow reducing the electrical resistance of the line. Voltage is otherwise high and stable for the capacitive currents as they don't induce enough flow.


Mold in grout or just stained by mold...is retiling needed? At my parent's place there's a small bathroom with a shower but the bathroom doesn't have windows (there is a ventilation fan).

I've noticed that in the grout, and some of the caulking around the fixtures, there's basically black mold. I tried to use cleaners and a sponge to scrub it of but there is only so much I can remove. The grout is never white and there are traces of black in most of the grout.

So, is the grout just stained or is there still live mold in the grout? How do I remove it? Do I need to remove everything and retile?

My guess is that the mould has grown into the grout; live or not, the bio-gunk they have produced has stained the grout.

A complete re-tiling should not be necessary; you should be able to simply remove the old stained grout between tiles and re-grout. You can remove and replace the stained/mouldy caulking as well. There are attachments for almost any rotary/oscillating/reciprocating tool to dig out grout, and there are also hand tools available for delicate areas. Simply work back down to either the depth of the tile or until the staining is gone, apply one last coat of bleach solution or Tilex, let try completely, and then sponge in a new layer of grout, making sure to get it into all the crevices as deeply as possible. To prevent mould growth in the future, you can apply a grout sealant; this will absorb into the grout and cure into a waterproof layer that will prevent the mould from "digging in" like it did.

If you are sure the mould is dead, there are also "grout restoration" kits that will cover the stain, and some of these products will seal the grout, preventing water permeation and thus avoiding mould in the first place. These are generally cheaper and easier than a re-grouting. But, if the mold's not completely dead, and the grout isn't completely dry, the mould can come back under a layer like this and remain visible, or even cause the repair to crack and flake off.


Ends of 25' 12/3 and short 14/3 extension cords get warm with 1500W heater I've 'tested' three listed extension cords, one at a time, by plugging a 4 year old 1500W fanned heater ($10 at Home Depot) into a 20 amp house circuit (no other appreciable load). The cords:

orange 20+ year old 9 foot 14/3 round
grey 20+ year old  8 foot 14/3 flat
yellow unknown-age (but modern) 25 ft 12/3 flat

All cords have molded plugs and are unmodified. None are damaged or look worn. All are single-taps, that is, none are triple-taps. Likely three different manufactures, none known.

I suspect code probably requires such a heater be plugged directly into the wall a outlet. I don't know.  Regardless, this is how I tested them.

Anyway, used one at a time, all three female ends get warm. The middle of the cords stay 'room temperature' 60F. The female ends get warm to the touch, noticeable, but no where near 'hot', just pleasantly mildly warm.  The 12/3 flat cord  has very thick insulation, and the warmth travels from the plug further up the cord - say 12" - than the either of the two 14/3 cords.

The plugs on the 14/3 cords feel warmer than the adjacent cord.  The plug on the 12/3 cord feels the same, or possibly a bit cooler.  I attribute the differences to differences in heat-conduction of 12 ga vs 14 ga wire.

I imagine all 9 female terminals (molded within rubber plug) are soldered to the conductors with no increase in resistance at the connection.

I suspect this means that there is a huge 'contact' resistance between female terminals and the male terminals in the heater's end.

How can I further investigate and hopefully eliminate the 'problem' if there is one.  Maybe cord amperage/gauge/length tables are for peak amps, not sustained amps.

What you're learning is that wire gauge is only part of the equation. As you noted, plugs introduce resistance, and that makes heat.

You're right that heaters should not be run on extension cords. If you must, use high-grade cords with good plugs, and expect them to get warm. Monitor them for excessive heat which can melt the plastic and cause a failure of the connection.

FYI, those connections are likely crimped, not soldered.


What's better for fence posts - wood or metal tbar? I have a nice post digger tool but my dad claims its cheaper and much easier to use metal bars. He has been using 3" (?) metal poles and pounding the ends into a sharp flat surface and then hammering them into the ground.

I have also seen pneumatic fence post drivers (such as http://www.rohrermfg.com/) which would make this work easy with t-bars.

In either case I would need to go 3' deep at least and I want to extend my existing fence, as well as support it (the previous owners did a terrible job and dug only a foot and a half down)

Is there any advantage to using wooden posts with concrete over the other methods?

Thanks

If you can get black locust posts, they tend not to rot, or not for a long time. Most other wood posts rot, and rot faster in concrete, IME. Concrete offers no benefit over a properly tamped backfill of soil, in general. Steel posts rust, how fast depends on the climate (well, so does how fast wood rots, for that matter.)

Livestock may be more prone to chew on wooden posts, depending on the stock (swine, I'd suppose, by your username.) Pressure-treated posts can be bad for that reason.

Other than that, the choice comes down to cost, usually.


Can I piggyback a thermostat with a C Wire hookup on a furnace? I'm trying to install a new thermostat that needs a C wire hookup. There are currently 4 wires running from the thermostat to the furnace, none of them are a c wire. When I look at my furnace itself it has a spot to put a c wire but it's currently being used by my whole-home humidifier.

If I run a separate 18-1 wire from my thermostat to the furnace can I just wire both the humidifier and thermostat to the one c-wire hookup?

I also have a thermostat that requires a C wire hookup for wifi access.  The spec calls for a 24 volt DC and I presently have it wired to share a 24 volt termination on my AC air handler.  What I discovered was that this termination in the air handler does not provide a constant output of 24 volts.  Instead, it cycles as called upon by the air handler and the thermostat would run until the battery failed which took about a month.  Plus I could not get the wifi to properly pair with the thermostat due to the cycling of voltage on and off to my C wire termination at the thermostat.

This afternoon I have an electrician coming to give me a dedicated wire from a 24 volt transformer for my C terminal.  I expect this to solve my problem.

So based on my experience, be cautious of sharing unless you know the source will provide constant power.


Why am I getting 50V at a light when the switch is off? I am trying to put in a switch and a light it controls in a storage building and this is how I wired it.

Click for larger view

When I checked the wiring it registered 120V when the switch was on, and right around 50V when the switch was off.  Why would power still be getting to the light (I'm guessing there is a problem with the switch) and why would it only be 50V?  Oh, and where everything branches off at the beginning I have a junction box there where all of the wires are joined there.

The continuity test on the switch, described in comments, confirms that it is bad, since it shows continuity in both positions. Replace it.


framing nailers : low profile for blocking but also with interchangeable tips for framing and use with metal connectors Is there such a tool as a low-profile framing nailer that can fit between studs set  16" o.c. for nailing blocking, but which also has swappable tips so it can do frame nailing of 2x members as well as aim nails accurately into the holes of metal-connectors?  I've found the one, or the other, but not both.

You will either find framing nailers or palm nailers, but not some combination , from the major brands at least. A good ol' hammer will do both but not offer the productivity or efficiency you seek.


Small chunks from brush in paint So I took it upon myself to paint some wood endcaps (very small, about 8 inches long) from their sealed wood color to white. I sanded down the wood, wiped with a damp cloth, then applied a coat of white paint/primer mix.

Well, painting isn't my forte and I didn't clean the brush between coats. Bad melee. I used paint thinner to try to clean the brush, as well as hot water - I thought I did a pretty good job, until I went to paint the second coat - now there's small chunks of paint in the finish.

Do I need to sand an start over again, or can this be saved?

Sounds like you have to redo the whole thing.

You are a brave soul for admitting what you did.  I think I would have just redone it before anyone found out, especially my wife.

You might try just getting a new brush and doing your second coat.  It could cover up the chunks, or you could end up with two coats to sand back off.  If the latter, I would keep it silent.


How do I put together an Avid Outdoor Gazebo / Sun Shade I've lost the instructions to my Avid Outdoor Gazebo / Sun Shade, Model #1083. Avid has gone out of business, and the instructions are not available anywhere on the internet (though there are many questions on several other question-related sites).

These are for a 9x13 Canopy #1083.  They may be similar to their many other models.

Inside the package, you will find these poles:

4x #1
4x #1b
3x #2
6x #2a
4x #3
4x #3a
4x #4

Connect the #1 & #1b poles together to form 4x4' poles
Connect the #2 & #2a poles together to form 3x6'8" poles (2 - 2a - 2)
Connect the #3 $ #3a & #4 poles together to form 4x6'5" poles

The shorter ones are for the 'Gable'... the canopy.  The #2 poles are the cross-bars for the canopy, and the #3/4 poles are the legs.

Here is what I've found easiest:

Assemble the gable completely upside down.
Flip it over
Add two legs to one of the 9' sides of the gable.
Drape the fabric over top
Fastening Velcro straps
Attach final two legs
Attach metal hooks at the bottom of the legs. This is the most difficult part.  Patience is required, or you may bend the poles.
Apply stakes to the rings near the bottom of the legs
Apply stakes to the extra nylon-rope stabilizers.


Outside hose bibb with very fine thread? I'm in a newly purchased house built 1998.  It has three outside hose bibbs, two are standard garden hose thread but one has a very fine thread that does not match either "Hose" or "Pipe" thread.  I looked at Home Depot and they have all sorts of adapters for various types of threads, but nothing matching this.

Here's a picture showing the hose bibb next to a standard hose thread.

What is this thread, and what kind of adapter do I need?

What you see there is a vacuum breaker spigot with its pants down. You'll need to try and procure the parts or just replace the whole works.

More on that


How can I connect 2AWG cable to my 100A panel? I have bought a gazebo (closed) that will serve as a studio and I want to place it on the edge of a wood that is approximately 400 feet from my house.

I was planning to run underground wiring from my existing electrical panel (if it isn't exorbitantly expensive) to a sub panel in the gazebo. We've determined that I will need 40 amp in the gazebo. I looked at the Southwire voltage drop calculator and it looks like I would need a 2 awg wire which I'm not sure could be wired to the existing  100A panel in my house- it is huge! Would I need a sub-panel on this end too?

In addition, I'm not sure whether I shouldn't change the existing panel in my house to a new 200A panel - it is a Westinghouse, from what era, I have no idea - I can't find any serial number on it. I have attached a picture below.

The run will go through a former local gravel 'pit', actually a hill that was levelled in the 50's, so it is pretty gravelly. It then runs into an area that is quite clayish and not terribly stable - there is a bit of creep on the surface. I assume the best way would be in conduit. I would like to allow for future capacity, should I make an addition on the gazebo, though I will be limited by municipal restrictions, because my land is in a 'panoramic corridor' facing the sea. So my maximum out-building area permitted is 400 sq. ft., one storey and I am not allowed municipal water nor sewage services.

All to say that the additional electrical requirements would be for a workshop (tools or, if I dream, a kiln? - that would require some serious electricity) So, given this and the size of the wire(s)that I need now, I would have to oversize the conduit for future wiring. Does one leave a feeder wire in the cable to feed future wires? How deep does one have to bury the conduit? Foundations here are at 4'-6'' - it freezes. Also, people sometimes drive onto my old gravel pit with their trucks so I guess I would have to take that into account.

Maybe a silly question, but we have a serious population of voles that devour roots and create a network of tunnels - I suppose they wouldn't have an appetite for plastic.. Would be grateful for any feedback you may have. This is really a great forum!

Wait. What?  You need two 120V circuits at 20A?   At 240V, that's only 20A. You don't double both of them.

Your small loads are your enemy

US Mains power has two opposing 120V "hot" wires on either side of a neutral wire.  All of them suffer voltage drop in proportion to amps actually flowed (which is what we measure). In a perfect world, you have two 120V loads almost equal.  In that case power comes down hot1, passes through appliance 1 via neutral to appliance 2 and returns on hot2.  You have voltage drop, but it occurs off of 240V, so it's not so bad.

However, if you only have 1 large load plugged in, you have a problem. Current comes from hot1, and returns on neutral, and the voltage drop hits you harder because it's a percentage of 120V instead of 240V.   This necessitates stupid-large wires.

I thought of using a multi-wire branch circuit and quickly realized the above is going to be a deal-killer.  Then I thought "A subpanel, then", but a subpanel doesn't fix it either.  A transformer does. If a transformer is involved, it will only pull off the 240V supply, and thus will distribute any 120V load evenly for the lower voltage drop.   Needless to say I prefer a transformer based solution especially since your power needs are right-sized for the 5KVA transformers often seen on Craigslist for $100ish.  However, there is also a 2-transformer solution that will greatly cut your wire costs (or alternately, give  you a solid expansion path on existing wire).

Multi-wire branch circuit

In this you run a single "super circuit" consisting of 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground wire.  You do not need a subpanel or ground rod by Code, but a ground rod is a good idea, as ground differentials could be dangerous.

You wire one set of receptacles to hot1 and neutral.  You wire the other set of receptacles to hot2 and neutral.

Design for the load you expect to be normal, not the breaker rating, and spec voltage drop for that.  At the very least you shouldn't plan to load a breaker beyond 80%, so 16A is the largest number you should use.  Given the distance I'd be happy with 5-6% voltage drop.  If it starts proposing #8 or larger copper wire, switch to aluminum and price both ways.

What do you put for voltage? Because of the problem mentioned above, you really need to specify 120V, and that's where you get murdered.  16A/120V/400'/6% = 4AWG Aluminum @ 4.88%.  Jiminy Cricket!

Mind you, if you had two large loads going, that would halve the voltage drop to 2.44%, because the drop would be applying to 240V not 120V.

In a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit  you are breakering that for 20A because 20A sockets require a 20A breaker. That's all you'll get out of that. Ouch.

Subpanel

With only one large load, all the problematic math above still exists.  A subpanel is not a magic wand to fix that.

However, a subpanel will have you put a 20A breaker on each receptacle circuit. That complies with the breaker requirement. And that means the feeder breaker can be bumped to the wire capacity of 60A, because feeder breaker ampacity doesn't care about voltage drop.  That means you can put more circuits in it. For instance again, assuming 4AWG Aluminum, if you add a 31A/240V kiln (using a 40A breaker), you'll get 4.72% drop. That with a 12A/120V load running will cause 5.7% drop to the kiln and 4.2% drop to the blower.  I could live with that.

One Transformer

OK.  Let's say you fit a transformer at the gazebo.  Since you want two 20A@120V circuits, that being 4800W or 4.8 KVA, a 5KVA transformer will suffice.   It takes a 240V-only feed (you only need 3 wires; the wire savings helps) and provides 240V/120V to the subpanel-- hold on, that'd be a MAIN panel since it's transformer-fed, so you tie neutral and ground.

Now, your worst-case 16A/120V load gets turned into an 8A/240V load, and #10Cu feeder  (though it's about the same cost as #6Al, so why are we bothering?) would suffice for 2.8% drop.  However if you are heavily loading both 20A circuits, it's a wash - 16A each = 5.6% drop with #10Cu, unless we bumped to 8Cu or 6Al, for 3.68% drop.   And this won't leave you any headroom for anything else.

If you want to add a bigger 240V-only load later, don't feed it through the transformer. Have the house supply come to an additional 240V-only - well, it'll be a subpanel since it's directly wired from the house. That subpanel then serves your new big loads, and also the transformer that's right there.  The transformer carries on making 120V power for the 120V loads.

TWO transformers

We use two 120/240-240/480 transformers of the 5KVA variety ($100ish each) with the primaries jumpered to 480, and back to back. All this should be fully enclosed and locked down so nobody can get to the primary side of the transformers.    At the house, we jumper the transformer secondary for 240V, and feed it with a 240V/20A breaker. (4800W ~= limit of a 5000VA transformer). At the gazebo, we connect that transformer's secondary same as above, to a subpanel.

Now, a single 16A@120V load is transformed to 4A@480V.  Heavy use of both circuits, 16A@120V*2, loads it to 8A@480V.  Let's run that through the voltage drop calc: 400'/480V/8A/5% => 14AWG @ 3.57% or 2.31% @ 12 AWG.  That makes for rather cheap wire!

Also, we only need 2 wires - the 480V run is isolated from both ends, so there's no need to run a ground wire.

Did you catch the part where we just used two #14 wires to carry 3840W 400'.

Now, let's think toward expansion.  Let's say instead, we get two 15KVA transformers (pricey) and do the same thing, aiming to deliver 60A@240V to the gazebo.  How will that punch down? 60A breaker means realistically 48A max load, so 48A@240V becomes 24A@480V.  Voltage calc sez.... 4.20% @ 10AWG, or 2.76% @ 8Cu or 6Al.

ditto ditto 25 KVA transformer and 100A (practically 80A) - 40A@480V = 4.60%@ 8Cu/6Al, or 2.95%@ 6Cu/4Al.

So... 6-4 AWG Al is a solid choice that will last through almost anything you'd plan to do with it, and if you need to upgrade, you can just throw transformers at it instead of pulling wire.


In the UK, how do I run wiring from indoors onto a balcony for a light? I am trying to install a light onto a balcony and would like to do so according to the UK electrical code. I have a power socket on the other side of the wall, so I would like take power from that, run it through the wall to the other side and finally to the light. The entire apartment is behind an RCD in the consumer unit.

Questions:

Am I allowed to do this at all (in my own property), or do I need an electrician? Do I need to notify anyone that I am doing this work?
The power socket is fused for 16A at the electrical panel. The single light will not need more than 1A so I need a way to put a fuse in it, I'm assuming I can use one of those "fuse & switch" boxes on the indoor side, is this right and is there a better way?
What type of cable should I use on both sides (indoor side and outdoor side - note that outdoor would be exposed to the sun)? Do I need a conduit on the outdoor side or can I attach the cable directly to the wall?
Do I need a light switch on the outside? I plan on using a smart bulb so I don't need the functionality of a switch, but I wonder if it's required by code - if not the light fixture will always be live unless the indoors fuse is removed.
What kind of IP rating should I look for in the light fixture where the top is covered (by the balcony above) however there is risk of water going onto it from the side if the wind blows the rain sideways?

The Building Regulations (which determine whether work is notifiable or not) vary according to England, Wales, Scotland or Northern Ireland. Notifiable work must be notified to the local authority, either by a Building Regulations application or an electrician who is a member of a scheme which allows members to self-certify and register their work. Anyone can carry out electrical work; it is only a requirement to notify the work that may apply.

The latest version of Part P for England and Wales was introduced on 6 April 2013, the range of works requiring notification has been reduced.

  Notifiable works are:

  The installation of a new circuit
  The replacement of a consumer unit
  Any addition or alteration to an existing circuit in a special location (bathroom, swimming pool or sauna)

  All other work is considered non-notifiable, namely additions and
  alterations to existing installations outside special locations,
  maintenance, replacement and repair work.

Part P England and Wales - Frequently Asked Questions

See also Approved Document P: Electrical safety - Dwellings (2013 edition) (PDF 2.33 Mb)

Other Building Regulations also apply, including Energy Efficiency - you may not be able to install a high-power halogen light.

You should use a fused connection unit adjacent to the power socket. It is your choice whether to include a switch or not, but it would probably be advisable.
You should use an appropriate cable for external use, such as NYY-J or "Hituff" cable. This can be run on the outside on the wall without conduit, provided it is not going to be subject to physical damage (so if it is running near ground level it may require a protective conduit or cover). It is available per metre from some electrical suppliers, including TLC

You may require a weatherproof junction box and glands on the outside to connect between the light fitting and the circuit wiring.

Note that the latest Amendment to the Wiring Regulations now requires all wiring to have sufficient metallic fixings that the wiring remains sufficiently supported in the event of a fire. This does not mean that every fixing must be metallic, and short lengths of wiring may not need any.

You do not require a switch on the outside.
The Ip rating depends on whether the light may be exposed to any form of jet washing.

  The minimum IP rating you should look for in a garden light is IPX3
  (normally IP43), which protects against rain or spraying water at a
  60° angle from vertical. Choose an IPX4 (normally IP44) rating for
  exposed areas.

IP Ratings – A brief guide to Waterproof Lighting

This answer is not a complete guide to how to install an outside light. Good workmanship is required.


Why is there a hot white wire in my ceiling light Canada, 120v 60hz

I have two ceiling lights in my family room.  Panel supply is in the ceiling to RIGHT LIGHT, with a runner down to the switch.  There's a 14/3 wire running to the other, LEFT LIGHT, and the box is also used as a junction to run power further down the chain.

I recently took down the brick facade on my fireplace, and found, embedded in the concrete, a junction box used to splice wires down to another wall outlet.  As I was going to re-bury it, I needed to disconnect these wires. (and run power up from the basement to that outlet).

I followed protocol and flipped the breaker and made sure the lights were off.  While I was removing the fixture (LEFT LIGHT) to disconnect the offending circuit, I received a mild shock.  I pulled out my tester, and found 120v from white to ground, even though the circuit was off.

Feeling that that famous electrician, Some Genius, had once again been set loose in my house, I decided that it was time to call in a professional.

He arrived the next day and found no voltage on the white wire.

I"m wondering why I found the voltage, and he didn't.  Is it possible that CFLs act as a capacitor and can energize a wire for a period of time?

Neutrals are hot anytime a load is connected.  That's why we call them "conductors" and insulate them (note this is different than the practice in automobiles). What's supposed to keep them near earth is a solid connection back to the neutral busbar that has much more conductivity than you.   When you interrupt that connection, the load will "pull up" the neutral to line voltage, and will place you in series with the load.

The sparky didn't see it, because at the time, the load was unplugged/off.

"But I turned off the breaker!"  That particular load was on a different hot circuit, but was stealing neutral from your circuit.   This is either a wiring error/laziness... Or a multi-wire branch circuit, whose entire design is to do that.  However all legs of an MWBC are supposed to travel in the same cable.


How do I hang a prehung door? I want to put up a door in a spare room that is already 82" in height. If I want to put the door to one side of the wall are studs necessary on that side of the wall or can I nail the prehung door right to the wall? Or am I better off centering the door and install studs on both sides?

A prehung door is usually hung centered in a wall. The molding that forms the sides of the prehung door, called jambs, are generally 4 1/2 inches wide, the thickness of a 2x4 (actually about 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches) stud plus 2 sheets of 1/2 inch drywall.

The door does swing to one side, and you can turn it either way. You need to decide which room you want the door to open into and which side you want the hinges on in that room. Prehung doors come in left hinged and right hinged versions.

If you are cutting a hole in the wall for the door (as opposed to putting it in an existing opening), you need to frame out the opening

The prehung door then fits within this frame. All illustrated boards are 2x4 studs except the header which is usually either 2x4 or 2x6 depending on the width of the door.


Old construction, replacing light switch, bundled ground I am replacing the light switch in my old home (1981). I can see that all grounds are at the back bundled together. Do I still have to legally connect the ground to the light switches' ground screw?

PS: The light on the ceiling is properly connected to the ground.

Yes. Modern code requires switches to be grounded. If you are not using self grounding switches and metal boxes (and you are not), you need to run a wire from the switch ground screw to the bundle.  Attaching to the end of any one of those wire will do.

Supplement: While the electrical police are unlikely to come pounding on your door, there is a reason for code. The ground serves as a safety if the switch gets damaged. It prevents the (rare) chance of you flicking a damaged switch and getting a shock. It's worth the trouble. In general, when you do an upgrade or a fix, you bring the device or system up to code if it is possible and reasonable. In this case it is both.


How do I turn light the oven pilot on this vintage stove? My 30s Wedgewood stove has an oven pilot that is funky. I distinctly recall that I had to do something special to light the oven pilot last time I shut the gas off, but I can't remember what it was. At the time, we had just

The right third of the oven had a trash/wood burner, there's an apparatus in there with a red button:

I do recall that the red button was involved in relighting the pilot:

But that's all I recall. I tried holding it down but that didn't seem to help. This is where I think the pilot is:

Note that my view isn't nearly so clear, but I could stick my phone back there. Am I even lighting the right thing?

Does anyone actually know how to light this oven?

Actually, this wasn't hard. I called the stove repair company and they talked me through it:

The pilot just lights (no idea why it wasn't coming on the first few times I tried it) and then I had to depress and release the red reset button before the oven would actually work.


Identify voltage by looking into gang box I was replacing few of my old manual thermostats with smart thermostats. While installing the new ones, I noticed that some of the gang boxes have 4 wires (2 black, 2 red). Some of them have 6 wires (3 black, 3 red).
All of my electric baseboard heaters are labelled as 208/240 V AC.
My question is,

Are the baseboard heaters that have 4 wires in gangbox running on 120v?
Are the baseboard heaters that have 6 wires in gangbox running on 240v?
Or they all are running on 240V regardless the number of wires in gangbox?

I do not need to know the actual operating voltage precisely, just need to know which range it is falling in, 120v or 240v.

This is in Canada.

Quick answer is that 240v only requires two wires (black and red).  Four wires would be power coming in, and the switched power from the thermostat going out.  If there are 6 wires, then power comes in, and the thermostat controls two pairs, or one pair is power out to another thermostat and one pair out is to a heater.  How the old thermostats were hooked up should tell you that.


Does primer really require 3/8 -1/2 inch nap? I am painting an exterior steel door in our garage.  We have some Behr Premium Plus Primer.  I was planning on keeping the flat look so I was going to use the foam roller.

But the primer instructions said to use 3/8-1/2 nap roller.

Is that necessary?

They're trying to help you apply it efficiently, perhaps because it is thick.

You can beat roller texture by using the "roll and tip" method.  That means rolling it out to lay it down, and swishing over it with a brush wetted in paint to remove the roller stipple.  I do it so often that I find myself doing it even when I don't need to.

The link and similar Youtube videos talk about marine paints, the best of which have very good flow-out and will "look sprayed" if roll/tip is done properly.  Disregard what they say about mineral spirits and chemical thinners, thin according to your paint's instructions.


Can I use SCH 40 for buried and above ground feeder wire? I'm running 2" PVC from my house to a detached garage to run a 60 amp feeder.  Looking at the NEC, it looks like I need to put it in SCH 40 below-ground.  However, it looks like I have to use SCH 80 anywhere the PVC will be above the ground.  Is that correct, or can I get away with using SCH 40 for the whole run?

National Electrical Code 2014

  Article 352 - Rigid Polyvinyl Chloride Conduit: Type PVC

  II. Installation

  352.10 Uses Permitted. The use of PVC conduit shall be permitted in accordance with 352.10(A) through (H).

  (F) Exposed. PVC conduit shall be permitted for exposed work. PVC conduit used exposed in areas of physical damage shall be identified for the use.

  (G) Underground Installations. For underground installations, homogenous and nonhomogenous PVC shall be permitted for direct burial and underground encased in concrete. See 300.5 and 300.50.

  Article 300 - Wiring Methods

  I. General Requirements

  300.5 Underground Installations.

  (D) Protection from Damage. Direct-buried conductors and cables shall be protected from damage in accordance with 300.5(D)(1) through (D)(4).

  (4) Enclosure or Raceway Damage. Where the enclosure or raceway is subject to physical damage, the conductors shall be installed in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, or equivalent.

352.10(F) says that the PVC conduit "used exposed in areas of physical damage shall be identified for the use". I know schedule 80 is suitable for protection from physical damage, however, the Authority having jurisdiction in your area may allow schedule 40 as well. You'll want to check with your local inspector to be sure, or use schedule 80 for the exposed section.

300.5(D)(4) says that even though the conduit is buried, if it's subject to physical damage (not deep enough, under a garden, etc.) it still has to be schedule 80.

  UL 651

  Schedule 40, 80, Type EB and A Rigid PVC Conduit and Fittings

  1.2 Schedule 40 and 80 conduit and fittings

  1.2.1 Schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit and fittings are for aboveground use indoors or outdoors exposed to sunlight and weather, and for underground use by direct burial or encasement in concrete. Schedule 40 rigid PVC conduit, elbows, that are specifically marked for underground use are suitable for use underground only by direct burial or encasement in concrete.

The UL listing says both 80 and 40 can be used in both above and underground installations.

  Guide Information for Electrical Equipment The White Book 2013

  Rigid Nonmetallic PVC Conduit (DZYR)

  Use and Installation

  Schedule 40 conduit is suitable for underground use by direct burial or
  encasement in concrete. Schedule 40 conduit marked "Directional Boring""(or "Dir. Boring") is suitable for underground directional boring applications.
  Schedule 40 conduit is also suitable for aboveground use indoors or
  outdoors exposed to sunlight and weather where not subject to physical
  damage. Schedule 40 conduit marked "Underground Use Only" is only
  suitable for underground applications.

  Schedule 80 conduit has a reduced cross-sectional area available for wiring
  space and is suitable for use wherever Schedule 40 conduit may be
  used. The marking "Schedule 80 PVC" identifies conduit suitable for use
  where exposed to physical damage and for installation on poles in accordance
  with the NEC.

The White Book clearly states that only schedule 80 is suitable for use where exposed to physical damage, though again, says schedule 40 is suitable for aboveground use (unless labeled otherwise). So while you may be able to use schedule 40 for the entire run, you'll have to use schedule 80 through any areas where the AHJ deems the conduit is exposed to physical damage.


How can I clean out a dryer vent which exits under my backyard deck? Since I cannot reach the end of my dryer vent cover to push all the lint out with the long brush kit, what is the next best way to go about cleaning it? Would using a shop vac hose work and suck it all back towards the dryer?

The pipe is quite long stretching through the front of my house to the back. Roughly 30ft.

Thank you!

I used a leaf blower last year to blow the lint out of my dryer vent. It worked like a charm.


Name of plastic piece Where can I buy this plastic piece?

Here is another pic:

I need it to place it between these two metal rods so that the curtain will slide easier:

Now I don't need this exact same piece but something like it will do. Maybe someone can tell me what it's called or maybe what to look for to buy something that can serve the same purpose?
Thanks

Just put it back in & on, they are & I call them bushings. They just center the smaller rod within the bigger rod. It's not a locking collar & even if it were broken in 2 it would still function normally. You can sparingly glue it to the inside of the big rod if it keeps slipping out. Other than that, you should be able to find replacements at Home Improvement & Fabric or Window Treatment stores.


Why Do 240V Circuits Not Require Neutral? Someone told me that a 240V circuit does not require a neutral wire in the cable.  Can anyone explain this phenomenon from the electricity perspective and generally explain why circuits do and do not need a neutral wire?

In a 120/240V single split phase system, the two ungrounded (hot) legs are actually connected to the secondary winding of the distribution transformer. The transformer actually steps down the voltage to 240 volts, so the two legs are a complete 240 volt circuit.

The grounded (neutral) conductor is connected to the center of the coil (center tap), which is why it provides half the voltage.

Therefore, if a device requires only 240V, only two ungrounded (hot) conductors are required to supply the device.  If a device runs on 120V, one ungrounded (hot) conductor and one grounded (neutral) conductor are needed. If a device needs both 120V and 240V, then two ungrounded (hot) conductors and one grounded (neutral) conductor must be used.

If you connect a load between the two ungrounded legs of the circuit, you can see how you have a complete circuit through the coil.

If you connect a load between one of the ungrounded conductors, and the grounded (neutral) conductor. You can also get a complete circuit, though it's only through half of the coil.

Since these circuits only include half the coil, the voltage is also half (Es = EpNs/Np).


What is the Best Practice for finishing the walls of a Bathroom? I am currently stripping back the layers of wallpaper in a bathroom and I am a relatively amateur DIY-er.

As I have removed the paper, patches of the plaster have become exposed as small bits of the (assumedly) latex primer have come away. Is it therefore better to remove all of that layer and start afresh with a new layer of primer? It is intended for the wall to be painted.

The decor is coming down as part of a larger bathroom refit, although I will be getting in a professional to do the actual bathroom furniture aspect.

You'll need to fill in the depressions left by the bits of plaster that have fallen off in order to get the wall smooth again. You can get ready-mix plaster compound at any hardware store; just add water and follow the directions. Once it's hardened, paint away.


Repairing wall around a plug socket The wall has broken quite badly around a plug socket in our bedroom and I don't know how to fix it. First time buyer as of yesterday and TOTAL DIY newby! Any help, gracefully appreciated. You can find a picture below.

This is a simple repair that should only take a bit of time. The repair shouldn't be rushed so that the result is a patch that is hard to detect. Here is what you should do:    CAUTION must be used when working near electric wires and devices. It would be wise to shut off the breaker at the panel before attempting this repair!  Remove loose plaster sections (right side of receptacle) and brush out dust and debris.  Cover receptacle with masking tape.  Mix about 2 cups of plaster patch according to instructions and with a putty knife push into wall opening. NOTE: Work with the knowledge that the plaster patch will set in a few minutes. Stay focused and don't delay. Start along the outside edge of the opening pressing the patch enough to adhere to the wooden lathe and existing plaster.   You will need to apply a second layer for a smooth finish. Mix the same amount but add a teaspoon more of water. This will delay the hardening of the patch to allow some extra time to work the compound smooth. Have a 4 inch putty knife ready after the second batch is applied so that you will only need a couple of passes with the 4 inch putty knife to smooth the patch.  When completed the still wet plaster will appear slightly darker than the existing plaster wall, but when it is fully cured will become a brighter white which can be painted if needed. It should match the surrounding wall in texture and thickness.


How do I install a junction box with NM-clamps? I bought a junction box in order to splice three Romex together along the 2x4's in the ceiling of my (unfinished) basement.  The box looks like this:

When I bought it, I assumed that I could just screw/nail it to the side of the joist using those holes in the back.  However, I can't do that because the screws for the cable clamp stick out the back by about 3/4"!

So, what is the correct way to mount this box to a 2x4? Or did I just buy the wrong thing?

Method 1

Place the box where you want it and screw it lightly to the stud.
Run the clamp screws in until they bite into the wood.
Remove the box.
At the marks left by the clamp screws, drill 1/4 inch relief holes about 1 inch into the stud to make room for the ends of the screws
Reinstall the box.

Method 2

Remove the existing clamps
Knock out the inner discs on the sides (not the ones near the original clamps) by
pushing one side with screw driver, then wiggling back and forth until it breaks off
Install bolt on cable clamps like these (screw section goes on the outside)


What wire size do I need for a 200A residential service? I’m planning on upgrading my electrical service to 200 amps but I’m not sure what aluminum wire size I need. I get confused with the ambient temperature chart, I’m located around Houston Texas area

If the load is feeding the entire home it can be de rated to 83% as long as the calculated load Is below this 166A  310.15.B.7.1 (& .2)
AND
The ampacity of the feeder can not be below 83% so 4/0 rated at 180 amps is the minimum
The 75 degree table is used. Per NEC 110.14.C.1.b
@Jack had it I provided the code references.
Yes if overhead run some think that table can be used but only if the feed has less than 24” of conduit.


How can I locate an electrical fault? I was using my toaster this morning, when it suddenly stopped working. I assumed the device itself had gone wrong, but then I noticed my cooker, on the opposite wall, had also stopped. The toaster proved to be functional when plugged into a different socket.

So I've got a broken plug socket and a broken cooker, on opposite sides of the kitchen. The cooker, I presume is wired into a hard fuse point. There are a lot of these in my kitchen, and I have no idea which is connected to what.

There's nothing off or blown on the fuse board. I assumed the problem was a blown fuse inside one of those hard points. But three of them have lights on - so are presumably still functional - and I changed the fuse on the other three. Still no luck.

I'm confused as to what could have gone wrong to cause two appliances on opposite sides of the kitchen to stop working. If it's not a fuse, what else can I look at to locate a fault?

The first thing to do is positively verify what is and what is not working. Plug the appliances in elsewhere to make sure the appliances are working. Plug in a known working lamp (or other simple device like a drill or a mixer) to every socket in the kitchen to test them. BTW, usually outlets are fused, not individual sockets in the outlet.

Let's assume that two of the outlets, both having two sockets, are completely off, having no power, and no circuit breakers are tripped. You write "fuse board". Do you really have fuses, not circuit breakers? This would have to be a very old house for that to be the case.

If you have two outlets without power and no tripped breakers, that is very bad because it indicates a potential wiring problem inside the walls. In this case I would strongly recommend getting an electrician, because you may be at risk of a fire and if there is a problem with old wiring in the walls, you will not be able to fix it yourself.


Damper close to main supply vs damper close to the register end: what is the difference between the two positions? For the air duct that feeds a room, what is the difference between installing a damper at the register end and installing a damper close to the main supply duct?

The biggest difference I see is noise.  The damper at the register likes to whistle when I have it mostly closed.

Also I personally want to install dampers on my main trunks so I can control air flow to each level, this is where dampers on the lines excel at.  Controlling air flow to areas of your house.  In the summer I want more airflow upstairs and in the winter I want more flow downstairs.  If your system is trunked/branched right, you can do this with only a couple of dampers.


Why is part of my wall shiny after cleaning it? I have recently moved to a new house and there have been a lot of deliveries for appliances and furniture. In the process there were some stains on the wall, nothing major as the paint was intact. I tried to use a soft microfiber cloth damped with hot water to gently rub off the stains.

However, after cleaning, that part strikes out a lot shinny than the rest of the wall when looked at an angle due to reflection of light. As this is the main part of the wall visible from the entrance, it really looks bad.

Has anyone faced the same issue and fixed it somehow? Any help will be appreciated.

You should get some extra paint keep on hand anyway while the brand is current and the color mix is valid. Since the home is new, you can simply roll over the washed area and blend out in a radial pattern, working to a dry roll. Your shiny spot should all but disappear.

If the color isn't an identical match, paint the entire wall to the corners without bothering to mask or edge to the base trim or ceiling. It'll be quick and the edging shouldn't show much at all.

If you're new to painting, do a little reading and dive in. It's a great skill for any homeowner to possess.


Do you really *have* to mortise for hinges and other door hardware? I am wondering if it's entirely necessary to mortise a door and jamb for hinges and other miscellaneous door hardware.  The only thing I can think of is that, in addition to being screwed in, the mortising increases integrity by locking the hinge in place provided that the fit is tight.  Outside of that, it looks like it comes down to aesthetics and just looks nicer.

Well, let's take hinges for example. They typically have plates 3 or more millimeters thick and with two such plates it means you need a 6 millimeters gap between the door and the frame to accomodate the hinges. Do you really want a 6 millimeters gap? It will conduct noise, let unwanted cold/hot air through the door, it'll be very easy to put a crowbar and break the door open.

If you don't care of having a huge gap - no problem, you can install hinges without making mortises for them.


How to solve the problem of sticky Danish oil? I ignored the warnings about not getting spray disinfectant on our oak kitchen surface which is finished with Danish oil, and now the surface has become really sticky, attracting dust and crumbs and is now really hard to keep clean.

It's been like this for a couple of months so I don't think it's because it's still drying out. So what can I do to fix this? Can anything be done with what is there or will I need to remove and reapply. If I need to remove it, what is the best way? Sanding isn't an option as the stickiness just clogs up the sander, so it will need to be chemical, but what can I use that will do the job but not be too harsh?

Actually I've found the perfect chemical for stripping Danish Oil: The exact same spray disinfectant that caused the problem in the first place! Spray it on and leave it for a few hours and the oil scrapes off without damaging the wood.


Help reinstalling an external door threshold During recent flooding, the threshold for our basement door trapped about 1.5" inches of water in the basement. In an attempt to get it out the threshold was forcibly removed, and now with hurricane season it'd be nice to have it back.

The problems are two-fold:

The threshold was nailed into the door frame before the frame was installed in the basement opening. So the nails go from the outside (i.e. their heads are against cement). I might be able to yank the nails, heads and all, through the door framing, but is there a better solution?
What is a good way to ensure a nice tight replacement fit? Adding a sealable weep hole under the threshold might help water drain in a future flood, but I want it weather tight other than that hole, both where it butts against the frame and against the floor.

Assume zero budget but a decent array of tools.

If I'm understanding #1 correctly, you have the business end of nails sticking out of your door frame right now, and you can't get to the heads? You could use a cut-off wheel with a dremel to take care of that.


What type of wire should I use from the meter to a 100 amp main breaker panel? I have a 60 amp breaker panel in the middle of the house 25 feet from the meter. It currently has 8 gauge wire that runs into and through the attic, over to the panel and down into the panel for a total of about 36 ft of wire. I want to upgrade to a 100 amp main breaker panel at the existing location because I don't want to have to run the house wires back to near the meter. What's the minimum size wire I need for the hot, neutral and ground between the meter and the panel?

Depends how you feel about copper. Aluminum is the better choice for feeder, lighter and more flexible too, but you need larger wire section if space is a huge issue.  Once aluminum wouldn't fit in the pipe and I had to use 1000 kcmil copper... you don't even wanna price that, let alone pay for it...

Anyway you use 1 AWG hot-neutral if aluminum, and 3 AWG hot-neutral if copper.  Or larger  but that's the minimum.  For the ground, #8 copper or #6 aluminum.

Since I gather that 60A panel was super small, you can see where spaces are the most important trait of a panel. Spaces are dirt cheap when you're buyting the panel, but getting too-small a panel is an expensive and easily avoided blunder.  Once you grok that, your thrifty side will root for the biggest panel in the store.  Now, to clear up a common misconception:

Panel ratings are like tire ratings: They're absolute maximums.  If you drive 85 mph everyday, you'd want a 112 mph tire - an 85 mph tire leaves zero margin of safety.  Lots of people buy 100A panels because they think they must match the feed breaker - but they're just running the panel at redline.  A 200A panel gives a margin of safety.

Main breaker rating in a subpanel Does Not Matter and does not need to agree with the feed breaker. It works fine either way.  In fact, subpanels never need main breakers.  (however subpanels in outbuildings need a disconnect switch, and a breaker covers that).


How do I drywall a corner with a lally column? I'm finishing my basement and I've come across this lally column which is supporting a steel beam.  I want to frame an external corner for this interior wall at this "corner" but the distance from where the back of the drywall would be to the column (especially on the right side) is really small, like maybe 0.5"?   Since I can't fit a 1x1" there, how do I frame this corner?

Here is my suggestion. It is only part of the post in the drawing, but it is the same all the way up, the scrap pieces of plywood are about 1 ft apart 3 or 4" wide, can be wider, can be solid, done that too. Makes for a really strong corner for corner bead. If you don't use 1/2" plywood and need to use 1/4" it will still be really strong. Using a full piece of plywood makes a straight corner really easy. It is what I do, I shown pieces so the method of construction is seen. I have also used 1X and had good results too, I use glue to help hold it....


Issue with loss of pressure in shower There's an issue with our en suite shower that is currently puzzling us, and our plumber.

Our en suite shower is making a high pitched 'squealing' sound after about a minute of operation, this is accompanied by an apparent loss of pressure, as the water comes out at a slower rate.

To make it slightly more complicated, it seems to only be at certain temperatures. I have a warm shower, rather than hot, and that's when it occurs. My wife has a hot shower (ridiculously hot in fact, steam everywhere) and it doesn't affect her.

However to make things really confusing, if I have a shower on warm before my wife, and then she has hers, the issue will likely occur for her too.

And finally, we've found if we run the tap in our en suite sink at a decent rate whilst the shower is on, it fixes the problem.

We have 2 showers in our house, and altogether 4 sinks, along with a washing machine that is piped in, and none of them have any issues with water flow.

Our plumber replaced the shower [head], but that didn't help, and actually seemed to make it worse, with it occurring pretty much immediately. The shower [head] he replaced ours with has since worked fine in another house.

He did say our water pressure is extremely high, and indeed when we turn a tap on the water shoots out, so he wasn't sure if that had anything to do with it.  He's stumped and he's now asking around to see if anyone he knows might have any ideas.

I was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem, and has any ideas how to solve it?

Our house is only about 10 years old (we've been in it about 3 years), and we've only had this problem for the last 6 months or so without anything obvious changing.

I should probably mention that I'm not great with DIY, so explaining in layman's terms might be best.

I know this is going to sound crazy but I had a similar problem with a cold water shower valve. It would squeal and then the pressure would drop. I ended up removing the valve stem and found a very loose washer. I replaced it and never had the problem again.....


How to install 230V Light with Light-activated-resistor? I am trying to set up light-activated-resistors that activate a light during dark hours. I have bought a ready Chinese thing that apparently contain a driver to change from AC to proper DC output for the light but I I don´t know for sure. The fact that the cords connected to the Chinese white light-activation thing are so thin hints me that connecting them directly to the 230V sockets is not probably the best idea. I have hacked an old radio power cord (on the picture) but I am afraid to plug it to the device before proper understanding of the system. The house where I am experimenting has no earthed sockets so I don´t know how to try out this kind of devices, not wanting to fire up the house.
So how can I install the device? What kind of precautions should I have? Where and how I should try the device? If I can understand right, it requires AC in.

PCBs

Instructios in Chinese

This leaflet just contains some general information concerning the product. The only thing relevant to installation is in point 5 (labeled 五).

Basically, the user is told to connect what are literally labeled as the "fire wire" and "null wire" (火线 and 零线) -which I interpret as respectively the red and the black wires- to an AC supply of 180 to 250V, 50 to 60Hz frequency, where the device should happily consume less than 60W of power.

This agrees quite well with what is on the bottom of the box.

This device does not need an earth connection, since the enclosure is plastic. Earthing is used when the container is metal, and the user could receive a shock if a live wire was touching the interior.

In addition, please note the timing seems to be able to be graduated, from 50 +/- 20 seconds.


Can this door be repaired? I removed all four corner screws from my shower door in order to adjust sag. Unfortunately whatever is inside the door pulled away from the holes and now I can no longer reinstall the screws that I removed. Anyway that I can fix this?

Inside the door frame is a tube like opening that runs the length of the frame. It is an integral part of the frame and is formed when the metal is extruded through a die.
The opening usually gets broken or is forced wider when the screw is turned to tight. Also corrosion occurs over time.
You can try this first: get a screw of the same diameter as the original, but slightly longer. You may be able to reach a sound section of the adjoining frame.
If not carefully separate the two miters until you can see an attachment point. This is not something that is easy and can be dangerous.


2a modified crushed stone vs minus gravel What is the difference between 2a modified crushed stone and minus gravel? I understand that both  are crushed stones and both have finer particles. Do they come from different species of stones? What are the differences in properties and applications? My research seems to indicate that the two terms are used interchangeably, but I suspect that there is a difference.

Generally anything that is "modified" means it has some limestone dust mixed with it, the idea is that once it is compacted, over time as rainwater falls on it, the water works down through it and causes it to harden into a unified piece of rock like concrete.  Sometimes they call it "treated" instead of "modified"   The "minus" stuff is just whatever comes out of the crusher.  For example 3/4 minus is gravel that has rocks no larger than 3/4" but has rocks that can go down to the size of sand grains.
As for what goes into it, "minus" can be anything from broken chunks of concrete, to actual rocks, to a mix of bricks, rocks and concrete all fed into a crusher and sifted to keep rocks out of it that are larger than the rating.
The minus stuff is generally what you put down when you are planning on putting asphalt or concrete on top of it.
The modified is what you put down when you aren't going to cover it but want a surface that will eventually firm up so you can park cars on it, etc.  It can take a year for that to happen, though.


Where should I install skirt boards on my oak stairs? I have had oak awaiting installation on my existing stairway for well over a year and will soon get to putting it in. The "experts" gave me (supposedly) all the necessary materials BUT I only have 1 10 inch x 8 foot board for a skirt. This will only be enough to skirt one side. Should I skirt the inside (already has a wall above the stairs) or the outside (railing on this side with wall below the stairway). Is there a preferred way for a single skirt?

You really need another skirt board for the wall. When I have my druthers, I make the skirt board the same thickness as the base that will meet it at the top and bottom so it ties in continuously. If need be, I rip a base so the top element, if it has a profile, will make it look like the base goes right up the wall along with the treads.

As a mention, the material you have for the skirtboard would be used on the outside where the wall is under the staircase, using riser brackets to help hide some of the joinery.


Is it safe to put a microwave in a walk-in closet? My spouse and I like to sleep with rice bags in the winter, which we microwave to heat up. To avoid having to go back down to the kitchen, we’re considering adding an outlet in our closet and plugging in a microwave on top of some wiring shelving.

Is there any reason this is not a good idea / dangerous?

There should be no problem assuming that you leave adequate clearance around the unit. Any appliance becomes a fire risk if there's flammable junk piled against it.

Also be diligent about vacuuming up lint and dust. The microwave's cooling fan will draw in more debris in a clothes closet than it probably would in a kitchen. You might blow it out periodically with compressed air.


Old recessed radiators with reflector foil I just bought a home built in 1960. It has old recessed radiators. I've noticed that behind the radiators is some sort of reflector foil which I'm guessing is backed with insulation.

Should I replace this or leave it alone?

It looks original to the house.

If you want to make the effort, you could fish the reflectors out, clean them, and reinstall them. But vacuuming the radiators may make as much or more difference...

(The idea behind these is supposed to be to encourage more heat to go into the room, rather than heating the wall. I don't know whether anyone has actually measured whether this makes a difference or not, or if putting non-reflective insulation there would work just as well or better...)


Why do I still read voltage on outlet when I turn off breaker? I have an GFCI outlet box wired with yellow coated wire, which I believe goes to a dedicated circuit breaker. When I turn off the breaker to the box, I still read residual voltage.  Is this induced "phantom voltage"? Is it safe?

This outlet box is underneath a jetted tub, so I want to be sure there is no voltage in the box when I turn of the circuit breaker.

The 3 tools I used to measure the voltage are:

1) Gardner Bender GDT-3190 multimeter (10 MOhm input impedance) - when pluged in to outlet hot and neutral, multimeter reads 2.1V on 200V AC setting.

2) Klein Tools NCVT-2 proximity Voltage Tester - when close to the yellow wire, tester beeps for voltage reading on 12-48V scale, but not for 48 - 1000V scale.

3) SPERRY GFI6302 outlet tester - reads open hot, so not picking up any voltage.

Thanks for the help!

Using a Digital meter you can pick up phantom voltage fairly easily - an analog meter typically not so. Reading 2.1V  is typical of a line that crosses any other circuits. Regardless of that reading - ALWAYS work on the lines as if they are hot! You never know who has done what - if the home was owned by someone else - maybe they did something 'creative'. Even some ' pro's ' if they are not followed up on might do something that maybe it is in code but not really what should be done.

Now it sounds like you are replacing that GFCI outlet- make sure you follow the instructions of the new GFCI outlet - your neutral is very important - of course so is your ground. Connect them correctly. In the USA White is neutral, black is hot and green (or un-insulated copper) is ground. The color of the Jacket that contains all three wires is not of any significance.

As an FYI:
Your yellow wire as you call it ... You should have what is often called Romex wire - which is a collection of conductors each insulated in their own insulation material (in their own colors.) All contained with in a jacket assembly. See an example at this link.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-1-000-ft-12-2-2-Solid-Romex-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-55048401/202528018


Air conditioning vented indoors? We are moving to a CONDO (so no common prop alterations possible) Our bedroom opens into a sun-room (that in turn opens outside via a sliding glass door) so our bedroom has French doors and a non-opening window, but they both lead into the sun room, not outside.

Question - if we replaced the non-opening bedroom window with a slider window that opened (because that would not be common property?) then we could use an AC in the bedroom that vented through that window into the sunroom - would this be OK to do? It would heat up the sun room but we would lock the sliding glass door leading to the outside open.

A "ductless" a/c system would appear to be the solution for this condo. You must exhaust the heat and humidity to the outside. Google "ductless mini split a/c".

Having a window a/c unit exhaust to the sun room would be completely unacceptable. A window unit used in this way would be by far the cheapest way to cool the bedroom, but would destroy the utility and aesthetics of the sun room. It would almost certainly be rejected by the condo association.

The condensing unit of the ductless system would be on the ground outside or hung on the outside wall and the air handler/evaporator on the wall in the bedroom. Refrigerant and electrical lines would connect the two units. The tubing to carry away the condensed water could presumably follow the same path and drip onto the ground outside.


Radon Manometer U-Tube is almost equal I have a radon system in my home with a u-tube style manometer. the reading over the past year has been almost 0*. I called the serviceman who told me it was fine as long as I could hear the fan running.
*It is not a level 0- it has always been 1-2 millimeters higher on one side.

All of my neighbors meters show a drastic level difference. Is this normal?

A u-tube doesn't need calibration in the respect that the difference between the two scales will be twice the static suction. For convenience though, in order to read accurately from 0, it should be "calibrated", because some oil will slowly be lost over the years. Simply disconnect the tops of the tube and slide it until the oil level is even with the zero reading. Replace the connections.

How different the levels are will depend on the accuracy of the device and the size of the fan, among other factors. What's important is what was the reading when the system was new? That should have been documented after installation and posted. If the current reading is significantly different, the cause should be determined and corrected.


Adding circuits to an outdoor surface mount electric panel for kitchen remodel I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel. I originally thought there were (2) 120v circuits into the kitchen, so I thought I'd only have to add a couple more, but that is not the case. The two circuits ended up being multi wire branch circuits that connected to the living room and garage. Therefore I need to add a circuit (each) for lighting, 2 circuits for counter space outlets, fridge, dishwasher/disposal and microwave.
Anyway, the panel is an outdoor surface mount on the back of the house. The house is slab on grade with an attic. I am planning to run the "home run" through the attic and protecting the wires close to the attic access. My current problem resides around dropping the wires from the attic to the breaker box.
I originally just thought about dropping a conduit from the attic to the box just like the one coming out of the top left of the box (see picture: this contains the wires for a 50 amp and 20 amp 220v circuits) to the right side of the box. Then just dropping the NM romex through that. But...as I have read about this, I think the requirements are a little more nuanced than this.
So here are my questions:
1.Can I run the conduit to the right top of the panel and have the conduit just terminate in the box on one and and in the attic on the other end? To do this I will have to cut a hole in the top of the panel with a hole saw. It is 25.5 inches from the top of the top of the conduit body to the top of the breaker box.
2.There is a pop out toward of the bottom right side of the panel. Could I use that pop out and run the conduit a little further to avoid cutting and potentially dropping the waste metal on the live nut inside the panel?
I would use raintight conduit connectors for either of these options.

If either of these are not a problem, can I simply continue the NM romex into the conduit from the attic into the box, or do I need to transition to NM-b or UF romex before entering the conduit?

If I have to transition to UF, can it be in one junction box for the 5 romex cables or do they need to be separate?

Although I am not running a combination of 12 awg and 14 awg (separate circuits for each size of course) depending on the circuit, is a 1-1/4" conduit sufficient for (5) 12/2 romex NM or UF (whichever is required?

Is there anything else I am missing or that I should consider?

Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me.

You run individual THHN wires in conduit, not NM or UF cables
The first mistake most DIYers make when they first approach conduit is trying to stuff NM or UF down it.  Instead, what you're supposed to use in conduit is individual wires of a type called THHN.  These are usually stranded, making them much more flexible than NM or UF cable, and also take up much less space than a cable since they don't twist around awkwardly during pulling.
You're better off running conduit all the way for that many circuits (no, it's not as hard as it sounds)
Furthermore, you're far better off putting a large junction box (a 6" by 6" by 4" NEMA 1 pull box would do quite fine for this) in your attic or kitchen at some convenient point and running all your NM cables to it, then taking two lengths of ¾ ENT ("smurf tube") and running them from said box out to the LB conduit bodies you'll need to use to make the turn down outside.  This lets you run quite a bit more power (in the form of up to 8 circuits normally, or 16 if you go whole-hog on MWBCs) to your kitchen without getting bit by ampacity adjustments that knock down the carrying capacity of wires once you stuff too many (more than 9 for wires 10AWG or smaller) wires down a conduit.  This solution also removes the need to provide working space for a subpanel in the kitchen, which isn't always the most practical thing in the world.
And finally...
Last but not least, from the aforementioned LBs, you'll want to run rigid PVC conduit down the side of the panel then turn into the panel with LL bodies fitted with weep holes, in the fashion of your Option 2.  This way, you won't need the special three-piece hub ("Myers hub") fittings that are required to come into the top of an outdoor breaker box or electrical cabinet at a location not factory-designated for a hub fitting.
Note that you may need to field punch knockouts in the side of the breaker box to do this; this is fine, as long as the KOs don't overlap factory KOs and don't extend above the lowest live part in the box.


Is there a comparative study of self-sustained and ecological housing? I am interested in building a self-sustained and ecologically integrated house. The Earthship model is an excellent example of what I am looking at building.
However, before I proceed, I want to be sure it is the best model currently available. Is there an existing comparative study of self-sustained and ecologically integrated house? Ideally, this study should provide an overview of cost, efficiency and modularity.

Is there anything else I omitted in this question I should be considering?

There is no one best model; it's a function of where the house is located (climate, site, etc.).  Something as simple as what side of a hill the house is can have a dramatic effect (does it get morning or evening sun?).  Stone is a great thermal sink, but if you've got to get it trucked in from great distances, it's not environmentally friendly.

Now, I'm not going to say that they're the most envionmentally friendly, as they don't make full use of their environment (eg, building into the ground), but the U.S. Department of Energy runs a contest called the "Solar Decathalon", in which college teams bring a modular home, and are scored on various tests over a week or so. (but of course, only for a week ... not in the middle of winter, where they might not fare as well)

If you look through the entries, you can see some of the design decisions that they made to reduce their energy use.  C|Net covered the 2011 competition.


Why am I finding condensation in my dryer? I live in Houston, TX (Very Hot, Very Humid).  In the summertime, my dryer is dripping with water, when not in use.  I do not have overly excessive drying times.

My dryer is vented via an unfortunate run of over 25 feet with two elbows.  It exhausts through the roof.  Dryer is in the center of the first floor, so the vent goes up to the second floor, runs through the ceiling/floor, comes out in an attic and through the roof.  The attic is unfinished, with temps well over 120F on an average summer day in Houston.

My guess is that I have hot moist air pouring down my dryer duct, hitting my nice cool air conditioned dryer and condensating.

Initial google searches have pointed me at the Fantech DBF110 which is a booster fan that you install on your duct run.  I'm not certain this is going to solve my problem, as it doesn't run constantly, only when the dryer is running.

Would I get more bang for my buck by insulating the duct and trying to seal it up?  Any recommendations on materials if that's the case (thermal blanket, just wrap fiberglass, other)?

Update:

As Eric suspected, I didn't have a working flap on my dryer vent.  So I bought one and gave it a test run and I wasn't happy with how little the flap opened from the pressure on the dryer.  So, I installed the booster fan as suggested by Doresoom as well.  We had a few hot humid days after that, dryer stayed dry.  My clothes drying times are pretty low too, 30-45 mins.

Fan pic is before I cleaned up the electrical, looks a little neater now.  The ideal install for that fan is with the bracket on a stud, unfortunately there was no good way to attach a stud and avoid cutting a new hole in the roof.  Luckily the fan is pretty light.

Usually a dryer vent will have a spring loaded flap where it exits the house to prevent outside air (and bugs, rodents, etc) from coming in through the pipe.  If you are getting airflow from outside through your vent pipe, it sounds like either you don't have one or it isn't closing.  I would check that first.


Difficulty closing front door Hi I have a new home and the front door is difficult to close.  They have run the doorbell wire along the inside of the upper frame (as seen in the pic) and the door rubs against it.  I’m worried that wire will eventually get worn down and in general it sucks having to lean on the door to close it.  My kids are also have a hard time closing it too, which means the door is occasionally left open.

entire door

The door was not hung squarely as I think you can see in the picture and it looks like I could fix this by shimming or somehow bringing that bottom left corner out just a 1/16th. I have about an eighth to work with at the bottom left and even more in other areas.  I have very limited experience hanging doors and I’m hoping someone can help with a quick fix tip that won’t involve rehanging/reframing the door.  Any help would be appreciated.

I think you are right the cable was installed by a drunken sailor. First things first. Drill a hole with a long skinny drillbit through the doorframe (home improvement store) which is a little bigger than the cable than use a wire and some tape to fish the wire through the hole and back to the bell. The bell has low voltage and is save to touch (I am not liable !!!). Take pictures before you uninstall the wires. Now see where you at with your door.


Drywall mudding plywood to emulate drywall I have a need (long story) to use a long strip of 3/8" plywood under a door casing vertical piece and I plan for it to be slightly wider than the casing. It is joining old lathe and plaster and, for a long and irrelevant set of reasons (I must mention this because I know how some of you like to challenge principal designs), I cannot use drywall.

So if I have about an inch of plywood sticking under door casing, will it be possible (meaning adhere and look like) drywall? I know that it's possible to mud over plaster to iron out uneven spots but not sure if it works when applied over plywood.

yes - we do it from time to time.  just make sure you put mesh tape on the wood and on to the adjacent drywall or plaster before you mud


Choosing a feeder cable from solar shed to off-grid cabin I have questions regarding electrical feeder sizing for an off-grid solar system.  I am building a purpose-built shed that will support the solar panels and house all of the equipment such as charge controller, batteries, inverter etc.  An A/C feeder will run in conduit 18" below ground for 140 feet from the main panel in the shed to the subpanel in the cabin.
The specs of the Magnum MS4448PAE Pure Sine Inverter/Charge that I am using are:

Continuous power: 36A @ 120V or 18A at 240V
Surge power (5 sec): 71A @ 120V or 35A at 240V
1 msec surge current (amps AC): Line-Neutral: 120, Line-Line: 70
100 msec surge current (amps AC): Line-Neutral: 75, Line-Line: 40
5 sec surge power (real watts):  8500
30 sec surge power (real watts): 6000
5 min surge power (real watts):  5400
30 min surge power (real watts): 4800
Continuous power output at 25 C: 4400 VA (L-L)

I intend on running individual conductors, not an actual cable.  I know about NEC Table 310-16 which gives the max amperage for each wire size, but I still have questions.
he owner's manual which has these statements:

AC wiring must be no less than 10 AWG (5.3 mm2) gauge copper wire.

The wire sizes recommended in this manual are based on the ampacities given in Table 310.16 (in conduit) or Table 310.17 (in free air) of the NEC, ANSI/NFPA 70,for 167°F (75°C) copper wire based on an ambient temperature of 86°F (30°C).

The overcurrent protection device must be a circuit breaker or a fuse, and be properly sized and branch circuit-rated for the wire it is protecting and the appliances being powered. When in Standby mode, the full AC continuous pass-thru capacity of the MS-PAE inverter/charger is 30 amps for each AC leg (AC HOT 1 and AC HOT 2). To obtain the 30-amp continuous pass-thru capability, each AC HOT input to the inverter requires a 30-amp continuous duty rated double-pole breaker 1, which corresponds to a minimum cable size of #10 AWG 2 in conduit.

Should I wire for 1-phase or 3-phase?  I do not expect any 240 V loads.  But maybe the wire sizes for 3-phase are smaller and therefore cheaper in the end?  And maybe 3-phase to future-proof?
Am I sizing based upon the surge current or the continuous?  I would suspect the surge current.
Assuming 71 amps total, is each conductor sized to handle 71 amps?
Aluminum or copper?
Bonus question, what size breaker should be in the shed main panel for the feeder?  The 30 amp breaker referred to in the owner's manual is for the input (pass thru).

Wire it up for 120/240, no difference in wiring: #10 AWG THHW and a double pole 30 Amp breaker in the main panel. Manual calls for copper wire only.


How do I attach a new pipe to this vertical ABS pipe? I have this vertical air exhaust pipe in my attic and I want to feed more things into it.  What is the best way to attach more pipes to it?  Can I cut a hole into the side with a hole saw, put in the same diameter pipe, and then seal around the edges?  How is this generally done and what can I search to get me started?

Thanks

The ideal solution is to cut the pipe and insert a Tee. You'll have to lift the upper part of the pipe enough to slip in the T junction and then lower the pipe down into the T and glue it. Sabre saw works to cut pipe, but it makes the pipe wobble a lot, which is not a good idea, it could break the tee fitting shown in the picture.

I would rather secure the pipe to make sure it doesn't move, perhaps cut a length of wood to place between the pipe and the background, and then gently cut it with a hand saw. Less risk of damage this way. Make sure to be really careful when you cut the last bit of plastic, that's when the saw gets caught between the two halves and snags.

If that is not possible, I'd use this kind of fitting:

You get the idea. Drill into the existing pipe with a hole saw, then slap this fitting on it with enough glue to make it stick. I'm not really a fan of these though. They're supposed to work fine if properly applied, and they sure come in handy when there's no other choice, like when both ends of the pipe can't be moved...

Also check your code.

EDIT: It is called a "Saddle Tee" -- google that, there are several types so make sure you pick the correct one, especially wrt pipe material.


Restrictions on tying grounds together? I'm replacing the hard line to the garbage disposal. Instead of the hard line i'm installing an outlet. The box where the garbage disposal switch is located has two circuits in it. One is for the disposal and the other is for an outlet.

The wiring in my house is soldered. With the old wiring all the grounds were brought together to a single spot, soldered together and a lead came out to ground the GFCI outlet. Now that i'm replacing the line and the switch (which now also has a grounding point, the old one did not) i need to connect. If I can help it I would rather not disturb the soldering.

I'm thinking, leave a lead to the soldered bundle, then tie all the new grounds to the lead. Would this be up to code or do I need only a single ground bundle?

PS I live in Ohio USA.

Solder only connections are a code violation. A metal crimp on the soldered connection with your new wire would be the best way to tie the grounds together.
crimp.