Three-way bulb's brightness levels are out of sequence I have tried 2 3-way LED bulbs by GE.  The settings are 50w, 100w and 150w.  They have the same base configuration as incandescent 3-way bulbs (extra ring around center contact). When I turn it to the first click this is the lowest brightness (like a 50W).  Turning it to the second click it puts out about twice as much light (as it should).  Turning it to the third click, the brightness goes to slightly LESS than the second click level.

I bought the first bulb, had this experience and assumed it was faulty.  Bought a second bulb and had the same experience.  The third click is dimmer than the second.

I've tried the bulb in three different lamps that have a 3-way switch.  Same results in all of them.

Is this a flaw in the GE bulb or is there some other problem?

17-Nov-15:  Received a response from GE Lighting:
This product (LED22A50/150) was designed to have the highest light setting in the middle position.

In other words, the order of the light settings is low(50), high(150) and medium(100).

This was done so that if you use the bulb in a single wattage socket it will light on the highest light setting.

Wonderful!  So it works in a single wattage socket AND doesn’t behave like a standard three-way bulb!


Gas hot water tank leaking - water turned off, what about gas? Repair or replace? My water heating tank has sprung a leak - out of the top (fortunately?) Whoever installed this thing didn't do a proper job of preventing galvanic corrosion, so the tank input is corroded (irreparably, I believe) and leaking.

I turned off the cold water input but am anxious about the gas line. Is there harm in leaving the gas on? I guess I'm worried about having to turn it back on and deal with igniting the pilot light, though I don't think that's likely, the tank must be replaced ASAP and I won't be using it again in its current state.

There are a couple images attached - you can see where water has been running away from the corroded input. In one image, on the left you can see the gas line for the furnace - there's a similar line just above for the water heater. Presumably I can just turn the knob to turn off the gas - should I turn it off on the tank, too? The tank has a knob with positions marked "off", "pilot", "on". Turn off the mainline first and let the pilot burn the remaining gas in the line before turning off the gas on the tank itself?

Can this be repaired? The tank will be 12 years old around November and is still under warranty, but I don't think that will cover poor installation. I only moved in within the last year, wish I'd caught this during the walkthrough. The mortgage includes a home warranty, but it doesn't cover corrosion!

The straightforward solution is to call a plumber to replace the heater. If you are not skilled at sweating copper and have the equipment, then this job is too difficult.

If I were going to repair the leak without turning off all the water to the house, I would cut out enough of the tubing on the tank side of the valve to allow unscrewing the copper female adapter. Then clean up the threads and solder up a new fitting with tubing so that you are not heating the water heater tubing. Then screw it on and finish by soldering the other end.

Before cutting into the tubing, you would turn the gas at the heater to pilot, then turn the cold supply off. It appears the leak is on the cold supply side. Open a hot tap somewhere to relieve pressure in the tank and drain the tank down a little.


Is it work making a small bedroom smaller by installing built in booksheves? I have a 100 square foot or so bedroom in my townhouse that is my guest room/library/yoga room.  I really want to add built in booksheves around the window, essentially reducing the room size by about 8 1/2 sq ft.  Is this going to be a probolem when selling in 4-5 years or so?  I personally feel it will help by creating more storage and reducing the need for much other furniture in the room but I dont know if I am in the minority or not.  Opinions?  (PS, all of the bedrooms are small, I believe one is around the size this would end up being, so I dont think that the smaller footprint would look out of place)

Most house buyers won't be going in with a tape measure. If it's likely to be  a problem, your realtor will let you know when its time to sell. They will probably recommend a short list of work to be done anyways (paint is a huge bonus).

In my limited experience as a home-buyer, it wouldn't make a lick of difference. If it looks nice, its a bonus. If it doesn't, I'll plan to tear it off the wall and paint.


Is this fix for a cracked whole house fan collar sufficient? This past fall we had a new HVAC system put in along with new duct work and insulation. There were a lot of people in my attic, and over the course of the project, the collar that sits above my whole house fan was cracked in a few places.

Before the last guys left, I ran the fan and realized the fan was rubbing against the collar, making a horrific noise. They adjusted it and it was fine. Since that was the fall, we haven't actually had a chance to run it since. My attic will get upwards of 120 - 130 degrees in the summer, and I'm worried about how this collar will hold up in that heat.

I had the company over two days ago, and one of the guys put some duct tape (the shiny kind, not the standard gray) over the cracks to reinforce them. I told them it was fine for now but come summer, if things start moving around because of the heat and there's a problem, that I'll be expecting them to come back out and fix it. They complained about not being able to find that collar, about the unit being so old they couldn't replace it, etc. etc.

I'm wanting to know two things:

How would you expect a fix like their's to hold up in the heat? Am I worrying about this too much?
Are these types of collars able to replaced, contrary to their opinion?

There's hardly any clearance between the fan blades and this collar, so I'm worried that eventually the rubbing will start happening again, long after they've been paid. I'm trying to be reasonable and work with them, but I don't want to end up with a busted fan two years down the road.

Here's what it looks like now:

As cheesy as the tape looks, it will do ok, It is made to resist the temperatures that blow through the duct work. At worst it may fatigue over time, but I think it will remain intact. To be certain, later when it is running check it out up in the attic. If the plastic shroud that has the tape on it is jiggling, the tape may fatigue. Aluminum can't take a lot of movement.

The tech is possibly quite right in their remark about the part not being available.

If there about an 1/8" of room between the shroud and the blade, it will do well over time. Should it ever strike it, it will be in the near future, within weeks, if not sooner if it decides to touch again. Then the fix will be a heat gun to get the plastic to stay.

I really think that it will be fine. What I describe would be worst case scenarios


How to soundproof sliding door/wall? I am currently renting a room, that was a living room once, and one side of of walls are just pieces of wood that you can slide on a track. I use the middle one as my "door". But there is a small gap between my door and the other piece, I am thinking if I can fill that space with something then it would reduce the sound from the other side.
I am renting so I don't want to do anything permanent, I was thinking of maybe hanging a thick blanket or something over the gap or just fill the gap between them with something that would not stop the sliding of the door.

Those look like thin, hard panels and they are much more of the problem than that little gap. While plugging that gap may stop a bit of the sound, the panels themselves are acting as sounding boards and transmitting the sound through.
I have a bookshelf nook in my bedroom wall with nothing but 1 layer of drywall behind the books, and a speaker just the other side of the nook. Sound is actually louder in my bedroom than it is in the other room because that piece of drywall reverberates and moves more air on the bedroom side than the speaker cone does on the other side.
Note that there is very little you can reasonably and somewhat inexpensively do to "sound proof" that wall, especially in something that would be removable when you move out. You can, however, deaden the sound to an extent, and that may make your quarters more livable.
The only realistic "fix" would be to cover that entire wall with loose hanging fabric of some sort to help capture and deaden the sound the walls are transmitting through. Your best bet would likely be to put a curtain rod across the entire set of panels and hang curtains/blankets/strips of cloth across the whole thing. Depending on how much room there is above the door panels, you may have to hang the rod from the ceiling instead of the wall. You may find that it will take a fairly heavy curtain or (set of) blanket(s) to kill off enough sound, so be prepared to buy a sturdy curtain rod and mounting brackets.
Generally speaking, most landlords are OK with a few holes in the wall (or ceiling as may be the case) for hanging things because small screw holes (or drywall/plaster anchors, molleys, toggle bolts, etc) are generally easy to fix up with some Spackle. If you're not sure about doing this, talk to your landlord about it. If he's edgy about the damage, either agree on an amount to be deducted from your damage deposit to cover the repair (get it in writing, just to be safe), or promise to make the repairs to his satisfaction prior to moving out. Or, just be willing to sacrifice your deposit for a bit of peace and quiet.
You could, of course, purchase acoustical panels of the sort used in recording studios and attach them to those sliding panels, and that would work far better than a curtain/blankets, but they'd probably be more expensive, have some sort of (semi-)permanent mounting adhesive to hold them to the panels, and you'd have to have at least some of them on the other side of the wall to allow the door to continue to slide, so that's probably out of the question.


Fix puncture in Ikea Linmon table I'm using an IKEA Linmon plywood table 150x75 as a desk and the monitor stand I've been using did this at some point over the weekend.
Looking for a cheap fix to help keep the structure of the table. As it is just my desk doesn't need to be pretty, especially if I could move the stand back over it.

Get a piece of ply bigger than the hole (at least 2 or 3 times the size and use it to spread the load.
If the clamping side is also small then another spreader may be a good idea.
There was a similar question like this previously...
See Best way to spread load on monitor clamp


Help soundproofing already built room I need to make a music room in my house. I have to soundproof it so no noise can leave it (i dont care if noise enters). I'm also on a budget. The only non electric instruments I have are saxophones and a trumpet. So if you guys have any tips to prevent others from hearing those instruments. Please let me know. This is also my first home project. Thanks!

I've attempted to build a reasonably soundproof music room in my basement and can tell you it is a tall order.  I built a room when finishing my basement using double drywall with Green Glue, a floating double drywall ceiling with hat channel and isolation clips, sealed outlets, and re-routed HVAC and it I can still only play at a moderate volume without disturbing the peace upstairs.

The best thing you can do is build a room within your room that is structurally separated from the existing walls and ceiling.  Fill the space in between with Roxul Safe and Sound Insulation (Lowes). It's the best option but still has limitations and is not cheap.  There are many examples if you Google it.

If the room already exists and you're on a tight budget, you can just do your best to hang heavy material on the walls like quilts, etc. and isolate anything that generates sound from the surfaces of the room with rubber mats, mouse pads, etc. Also avoid cutting holes in the ceiling for recessed lighting etc. Use lamps or surface mount lights. Anything you can do to reduce vibration (sound) from getting to the existing structure of your house will help.

Hope this helps.


Which shower valve do I need? Please help me identify which shower set do I need to get to replace it. Thanks.

Any one of a number main line manufacturers' valves will work in your situation.  You have what is called simply an in-wall, single handle tub and shower valve.  Some soldering will however be required. You could use a pex pipe type valve or even a iron pipe threaded valve that will accept either galvanized pipe or CPVC. However you are still left with adapting to the existing copper pipe.  Good Luck.


How can I soundproof a bathroom door? I'd like to make one of my bathrooms that one special place where a guest can go about their business in peace.  Essentially, I am going to be soundproofing/insulating my entire bathroom, but the doors are an area I need a little help with.

Right now, both doors are light, hollow doors with about an inch and a half of space beneath them.  The first order of business is to get heavier, denser doors and also lessen the space between the bottom of the door and the floor.  That I can handle, but there's inevitably still going to be a small space left over and I want to make sure even that is sealed up.

I conceptualize a hard, rubber-like strip that is installed on the floor beneath the door.  Alongside the bottom of the door is another strip that butts up against the bottom strip, creating a tight seal.  I don't know if something like this exists on the mainstream market and, if it does, what it's even called so that I can look for it at my local hardware store.

Perhaps you could offer your own ideas as to how I can soundproof my doors much more efficiently.

You're looking for a Door Shoe

A Door Sweep

Or a Threshold with a vinyl seal

Or a combination of these.

These products are typically used to weather seal an exterior door from the elements, but should work just as well in your situation. They should all be available at your local home improvement store.


How to repair garage slab after plumbing brought in The corner of the slab in my garage was removed to bring in plumbing. It's been backfilled with ~3 feet of dirt (slab was 2ft thick). What is the best way to repair this? I'm thinking I'll dig out approx. 1 ft., compact as best I can, and fill with cement, only applying adhesive to slab sides (not the stem wall) and maybe chisel out an undercut on the slab. Anything I should do differently/think about? I've never worked with cement before. Thanks.

Pour in concrete after the base is known to have been fully compacted and settled. But do not make it a foot thick. If you ever have to work on this plumbing later you would highly regret having to break apart that block.

There should be no reason to have the patch portion be any thicker than the original slab. Also it appears that the original slab was not tied into the main foundation under the walls so you should maintain that with the patch. I see no special reason to chisel out an undercut of the slab. Just make sure that the edges of the slab are clean and free of loose particulate so that the new cement has the ability make somewhat of a bond to the existing slab. Adhesive on the slab edges would be a waste of time/money because the wet cement you pour into there would not stick to it.

If you want to work at it you could bore some holes into the edges of the existing slab and bond some short pieces of small diameter rebar that sticks out into the patch region. That would do more good to keep the patch edges lined up with the slab over time. If you so this however do it carefully so you don't end up just crumbling more of the existing slab in the process.


Attic Ventilation Improvement Location: Portland, Oregon, USA area

House: 1972 single story, approx 1500 sf attic area.

When we bought the house the prior owners paid for attic mold remediation.  I believe the mold was a result of inadequate attic ventilation.

Currently the house has soffit vents consisting of 19 sets of 3 2-inch holes and two gable vents (about 18"x24" each) as shown in the images below.  There are currently 8 vents on the east slope of the roof.  At some point someone added a powered attic fan venting on the west slope of the roof, but with the limited soffit vents I suspect this actually contributed to the problem instead of correcting it.

One contractor has proposed:

Removing the perforated 2x4s completely to open up the soffits (screened, of course)
Increasing the number of open segments at the soffit line from 19 to 20
Blocking the gable vents
Adding 6 more attic vents

From other questions on this site and research on the Internet, I understand I need about 10 sf free area (1:150) for proper ventilation.  My concern is that the proposed changes will result in only about 7.8 sf intake free area ( (15" x 3.75" x 20) / 144).

Is the proposed plan sufficient, or should I request the number of soffit openings be increased to 26 (10.15 sf)?

Soffit vents:

Gable vent:

Roof vents:

Attic fan:

The gable vents are short-circuiting the ventilation. The holes appear to be adequate, but as there's a shorter path of less resistance from in the gable vents and out the ridge vents, the holes don't draw very much air.

I'd temporarily cover the gable vents from the inside and see how things change. Maybe take temperature and humidity readings at intervals before and after doing so.

Bottom line: It's rarely a good idea to mix gable and ridge venting.

As to your actual question, you'll need to weigh the cost of achieving 100% of the recommended area vs. 78%. Considering that most standards have some degree of overage built in, 78% is probably adequate, but that's a matter of opinion.


Alternative to a basin wrench? I'm in need of a tool to tighten a nut such as shown below:

Because of the tight space (area below the basin faucet), I'm never had success with the many wrenches that I used. At last, I came to know about the basin wrench which (as shown in the pic above) seem to be just what I'm looking for.
The problem
I'm from India and I cannot find this wrench anywhere in the online market (Amazon shows a couple results but they are from global store and cost a lot). I also tried a couple of local shops but they didn't seem to recognize it.
So, is there an alternative to this tool that I can get it at my place?
Some more information
These are the wrenches that I've tried and failed owing to space constraints.

Another wrench type for this situation is the socket type. I have seen some in plastic that may come with the faucet. socket basin wrench

Here is an ingenious tool video to use of plastic tube wrench and another video of same Rigid wrench

I think I have seen simple ones that are little more than an 8 inch long tube with a slot along the length to slip over the supply hose. One end fits the nut holding the faucet and some other wrench is used on the bottom end. It is possible that you could have one fabricated locally out of steel pipe. The bottom end could be turned by pliers or a pipe wrench. The upper end could have wrenching flats soldered (or glued) inside the pipe.


Exact meaning of this water sign I guess that this German sign tells me to search for the mains water supply in front of and left of this sign.

But what unit do these numbers have? Does 05 mean 5cm? Or 0.5m?

The sign indicates that the water supply valve (Wasseranschlussventil - AV) is located 0.5 meters to the left and 17.0 meters in front of the sign.

This Wikipedia page has all the details, though it is in German. But maybe Google translate will help if you're not fluent enough to read it.

  Designation in abbreviation of the installation fitting.
  Inner diameter in millimeters of the supply line.
  Distance between shield and installation fitting measured from the plate to the left . This is given in meters (field 3 and left) and
  decimetres (field right, after the comma).
  Distance between shield and mounting fitting measured from the shield to the right . This is given in meters (field 4 and left of it)
  and decimetres (field right, after the comma).
  Distance between shield and mounting fitting measured straight away from the shield . This is given in meters (field 5 and left) and
  decimetres (field right, after the comma).


How do I fix a hole in an interior block wall? Whilst doing some kitchen renovation I noticed a rather large hole in a cinder block wall the size of half a block. It seems that it was done with a lump hammer in order to plumb in some pipes. There are also two cracks emanating from the hole.
The hole is on a wall that supports the stairs.

How should I go about fixing the problem?

This wall does look more like plasterboard/plaster & lathe than it does any sort of cinder block/Concrete Masonry Unit (CMU). The wall cavity just isn't thick enough for a CMU before there's what looks like a finished wall on the other side.
If that's the case, I'd suggest cutting back the rough edges until you find some sort of stud (on each side), then do a simple plaster board repair on the wall. There should be plenty of examples here of how to do that, but if you can't find an explanation that makes enough sense to you, ask a new question and indicate your specific stumbling block.


Can fuses be intermittent? While I was at work today I had a power outage in one of my rooms. I know because I had multiple computers in there that were off for several minutes(fully booted back up in 14 minutes), but the computer in my bedroom did not shut off.

I would like to find out why this happened. Is it possible that a fuse is going bad, but has not completely blown? The fuse is warm to the touch from all the power I'm drawing in that room.

I also tried gently flicking the fuse with my finger(in case the metal strip inside was starting to come off) but the power remained running.

You probably just lost one phase of power for a few minutes.

Since you're in a 120V country, the power that comes into your house has 2 120V cables, each running opposite to each other, in order to provide a 240V supply to anything that needs that much power. This means that it's possible to get 120V from either cable. Most houses split the circuits in order to balance the load.

This means while it's possible for a power outage to result in a loss of power across your house, it's also possible (although rare) for only one cable to go out. This will result in a loss of power to only the circuits using that cable. (Approximately half of them.)

Unless it re-occurs, or you notice other problems, it's not that big of a deal. (There's an outside chance that one leg of the circuit is still off, which can cause super-weird stuff to happen.) It's worth contacting your electrical provider, but they might just respond with a shrug.


what should we do at the chipped tub rim lip The new tub rim upturn lip has chipped and cracked a little. To install the wall tiles, which option is better?

Install the tile backboard (is it cement board) in front of the upturned lip and overlap it. Then install tiles over cement board. Question: the face of lip is 1/8"-1/4" in front of face of studs. Would the cement board be bent? and is it a tight overlap at the lip since there should not be screws too close to the lip or going thru the lip?
install the tile backboard above the lip so the face of the board flush with the face of the lip. Then install tiles over the lip and board?

Option two is the way to go. You don't want any angle space between the studs and the cement board. Secure the cement board firmly to the studs flush with the edge of the tub lip and seal the seam with caulk. Then install your tile over the cement board and face of the tub lip. Then grout and then seal the bottom row of tile where it meets the tub with caulk.


What is the minimum gauge wire required to carry 100 amp service from the meter to the panel? What size wire is required to carry 100 amp service from the meter to the panel?

This question has been answered for a 60' distance on the DIY Stack Exchange and provides additional references for longer or shorter runs.

I suggest that the spelling error is the keyboard proximity of the letters C and V and a missing R, indicating that the OP wishes to carry 100 amp service.


How to build a quick-and-easy wood ladder? I have a pair of long 4x4 posts holding my chimney, and I'd like to build a ladder in to the posts for maintenance. In some ways this could be safer than using an extension ladder, as the posts are well-anchored.

I was thinking I could screw some short 2x4s on to posts as steps. A quick search on building a ladder says to notch the verticals, which seems nice and strong, but would be difficult to do in this setting.

As an experiment, I used a pair of 3 1/2"-long screws to attach a rung just above ground height. I jumped up and down on it and it held. Based on that data, I could use twice as many screws and be safe, right? Or not...

building a make-shift semi permanent  ladder is not a great idea for a couple of reasons.

First: It is very possible that your homeowner's insurance will insist it be removed or cancel your coverage.  I know this for fact as my insurance company (Good Neighbor) did an informal walk around my house and discovered a homemade ladder going from the sunroom roof up to the second floor roof. I had built it strong and attached it to a back wall in order to get up on the highest roof to remove snow. My agent called and explained the situation. a homemade ladder cannot be certified safe for a fire escape and by being permanently attached to the house invites unauthorized use and opens the Insurance company to liability.  Needless to say, they insisted I take it down.

Second reason: Although it may seem safe and secure at first, anything could happen. 2X4's as rungs could split. the angle may be bad and you might fall off.

Last reason: None of your friends here at SE want our favorite Yurt builder to get hurt.


Water usage when some sprinkler heads are capped off I have removed several sprinkler heads. Does this reduce the amount of water used or do I need to reduce the time in that zone?

The answer is, "it depends", but you will probably be using less water.  If the section the sprinklers were in was overloaded, removing the few heads might just give the rest of the sprinklers extra pressure and allow them to use much more water.  If the section already had good pressure, removing the heads will probably not affect the other heads much and water usage will go down relative to the number of heads removed.

The best way to measure this yourself is to look at the water meter and record the number, then run the sprinkler section for 5 minutes and record the meter reading again.  You can divide the gallons used to get a rough value for "gallons per minute" that the section uses.  This can help you plan your water usage, and even alert you to leaks if your water usage is way off of your estimate.


What degree do I make bevel cut to form a 28ft ring with 2x4s I'm trying to make this circle for my pool to put 3" of sand in it

You can't figure this out without knowing how many boards your circle will have; once you choose the number of boards, just divide 360 by the number of bevels (one for each end of each board) and that's how far from 90° each end should be.

So, if you have 4 boards (a square):

4 * 2 = 8 bevelled ends
360° / 8 = 45°
each end should have a 45° bevel on it:

If you have 20 boards:

20 * 2 = 40 bevelled ends
360° / 40 = 9°
each end should have a 9° bevel on it, so each end should be cut 9° from perpendicular:

A couple of possible optimizations:

When you're cutting a board to length with a (say) 9° bevel, you automatically create a second end with a 9° bevel in the opposite direction. So, flip the board over and then cut THAT board to length with the 9° bevel. Bingo: half as many cuts.
Another alternative would be to leave one end of each board square (what I'm calling a 0° bevel), and then cut the other ends at twice the angle calculated above. Depending on the situation, this may mean less work.

(Just to be clear: what I'm calling a 9° bevel will result in a board whose end is cut almost perpendicular to the sides, not a board with an extremely sharp point on the end. Here's a page with more math for your calculations.)


Identifying manufacturer (brand) of toilet from a photograph Can anyone identify the manufacturer of the toilet from the following photograph? It is the original toilet installed by KB Home in 2007.

I am guessing it is made by American Standard. Is that correct?

Reason I ask is because I don’t have access to the toilet for a few weeks, and I’d like to browse for a few parts for it in the meantime. I’m guessing it is American Standard because it’s commonly used by home builders, and it does look similar to images I found of American Standard toilets on the manufacturer’s website as well as Google Images.

I understand the reasoning behind your question but you should never "browse" for parts without first laying eyes on the parts you need, unless you like bringing/sending them back. There are numerous manufacturers with models that look just like this. Even if your wild guess is correct, manufacturers use different internals for the same tank and bowl depending on model. They also change internals year to year but continue to use the same tanks and bowls.

Wait until you return and you will find manufacturer and model information stamped into the back of the tank. More importantly you will be able to see the parts you need.


Room above garage cold I have a room over an attached garage which gets much colder than the rest of the rooms. I think there is no insulation in the garage ceiling (I haven’t checked it yet). I saw some suggestions online and some of them mention taking the drywall off and using spray foam. I do not want to go that route since it will be costly option.

What I am thinking of doing is have someone use blown in insulation in the garage ceiling or take down the drywall and put the foam board between the joists, then seal it with spray foam from a can, and then put batt style insulation and put the drywall back and finish it. Is this still a good option?

Blown insulation may be cheaper and do a good job.
You could use a combination of foam boards and batts if the 2x’s are deep enough.
How is this room heated? This may be part of the problem also some rooms over the garage were additions and proper heating not installed so this should be part of your investigation.
I mention the heating because if built originally with the house they were normally insulated.


Changing furnace filter I moved to a new house recently. The house is around 40 years old. It has a central heating system (natural gas furnace). I hear that one should replace the filter regularly (like once a month, or once every 3 months at least). However, I am unable to find where to replace it. I have attached a photo of the furnace area.

The furnace tag reads:
frigiking, inc.
Forced Air Central Furnace. Equipped for natural gas.
Model no. UGI 80D8 E1.

There is a logo too on the furnace which reads Tappan Air Conditioning.

I have two questions:

Does this furnace even require a filter, since I don't see a filter anywhere?
If so, where is the slot where the filter resides? Should the filter be placed behind the vent screen right below the HVAC closet (see photo)?

Your furnace definitely has a filter. To access the filter compartment remove the lower of the two metal panels on the front. The filter location is horizontal at the very bottom in the plane of the very bottom of the furnace. It will probably have a metal loop resting on it to keep it in place in the upward air stream. You may want to remove that metal loop to more easily put in the new filter, but it may be less trouble in the end to work around it.

(The upper panel is for inspecting and servicing the burner. This has nothing to do with the filter and you do not want to remove this.)

Before removing the panel turn the furnace off at the thermostat and at switch it off inside the closet if there is a switch there. Do not attempt to remove the access panel with the fan running. Carefully inspect the way the lower panel fits so you can return it to that state. You may want to have a new filter in hand so you can put it in right away.

To remove the panel grasp the top edge of the panel labeled TAPPAN Air Conditioning and move the panel enough to free it by pulling up, then work the panel out. It is a little tricky until you get experienced at it. The metal edge might be sharp. You might want to wear gloves until you are practiced at it. When you remove the panel you will see the squirrel-cage fan and the filter will be below that.

Using the standard grade of filter you might want to change the filter once a month or two or three. It just depends on how the filter is performing in your house. Here is a video showing the same type of furnace as you have, but I think you do not have to remove the upper access panel like this guy did. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZknWY1zAUk

Our house is 45 years old and we have lived in it 39 years. Ours is a Carrier natural gas furnace of the same configuration as yours, but at installation 25 years ago I opted for an extra filter unit under the furnace which houses a 6-inch thick pleated paper filter. These are $25 to $30 each and I change it once a year. It is accessed through its own panel so it has been a long time since I opened the regular access panel.

The original furnace was of the same type and when we moved in the filter had fallen down and was lying on the bottom of the plenum below.


Can anyone recognize these parts? I was repairing/replacing a set of switches. Two brass metal parts fell out. I don't know what they are or where they came from. I don't know if they are essential or not.

Does anyone recognize them?

Those look like the metal contacts that the switch lever tips either up or down to make a contact - the pivot point looks to be the ends of the strip.


What can I do about flooring height differences when installing laminate flooring? We are going to be having laminate flooring installed in our kitchen, dining room, living room and down the hallway.  We removed a built-in bookcase, and most of the carpet, but we noticed that there is quite a difference in height from the dining area, to the living room area and down the hall, as the dining room has two layers of plywood and a subfloor, where the living room/hallway has only the subfloor plywood.  What will they do to make this match, as the flooring will be the same in all areas?

There are two ways to install flooring in areas of different heights. The cheapest and easiest method is to install transition pieces or thresholds between the areas of different heights. These transitions are available in different matching shapes and heights for most laminates. Common use is to join carpeted, tiled or other floors, to new flooring height.

The second method is to install new sub=flooring of a correct thickness over lower floors to make all the floors match in height. This is a bit more expensive and will add a day or so to your labor costs, and possibility require some extra trim work. Having all the floors at the same level will make for a nicer looking install, especially between larger rooms with wider passages.


GFCI outlet with two branches I am adding a wet bar to my already finished basement. I am going to replace a regular outlet that is under the counter with a GFCI outlet (to meet code). The outlet is in the middle of the run (on a 15A circuit).
I want to add an outlet above the new GFCI outlet and I'm curious if I can pigtail off of the load side of the GFCI so that the new outlet above it and the other outlets downstream will be protected.

Absolutely yes ! you could have as many receptacles fed off this load terminal as you want! (Pig-tailing is the right way to do multiples)
Would you like 1,2,3 branch circuits going in different directions from the load? This is 100% code compliant!
Caution there are internet only electricians that do not understand both code and the use of the load terminals your use of the load for multiple loads , branches is code and device compliant.


Can a vent hood designed for 12" deep cabinets be installed under IKEA's 15"-deep cabinets? We're redoing our teeny-tiny condo kitchen (8 feet square), and one way we're saving space is with smaller appliances - 18" wide dishwasher, and 24" wide fridge and range. For the 24" range, we need a 24" wide vent hood, preferably an under-cabinet type1.

Most places sell 24" wide vent hoods as a standard, stock item2, so that's not the issue. The problem is, we're getting IKEA cabinets, and in their new(ish) SEKTION line, the wall cabinets are 15" deep instead of the 12" that everyone else does. IKEA does sell vent hoods to fit their deeper cabinets, but they're all 30" wide, which just will not fit, no matter how I play around with their kitchen designer program3.

So, I come to my question: can we stick an under-cabinet vent hood designed for a standard 12" deep cabinet under a 15" deep cabinet? And if yes, how? Would a 2×4 screwed to the wall, underside covered with metal flashing, suffice? Has anyone already done this? If yes, do you have pictures?

1 Yes, you lose space inside the cabinet for the vent, but there's still room for things like baking sheets and cutting boards. Did I mention this kitchen is 8 feet square?
2 I really don't understand this: 24" wide ranges are totally a special-order item, as in, for the options we wanted (electric, smooth top, and white) we had a selection of exactly... one. The vent hood is supposed to be at least as wide as the range. So why are 24" vent hoods standard? Who buys them? I don't get it.
3Which is awesome, but don't even try running it in memory-leaky Firefox.

Find a decent hvac fabricator and they can bend you a 24" x 3" sheet of stainless steel.

The simplest way to make that work would be to put framing lumber against the back wall (2-2x4 upright for 3" width) and slap the steel against it. That has the advantage of being solid and offering an extra spot to attach the hood.

Depending on your cabinetry, you might be able to vent through the back, which will give you more space in the overhead cabinet. (This might lead you to a 3-1/2" spacer to give a bit of room for the typical 10x3-1/4 duct.)


What are some DIY alternatives to drywall that I can carry up a narrow staircase? I'm fixing up a house that's been cut into apartments, and needs a few wall and ceiling repairs due to some water damage.  I'm planning on cutting out large sectons to check the extent of the water damage, so I'll be repairing large sections, not just patching.

I've hung enough drywall that I'm comfortable with it, but the stairs are so narrow that there's no way I'd be able to get a whole sheet into the upstairs without tearing out the wall (which isn't damaged) so I don't have to turn as soon as I get upstairs, or finding some way to get 'em in through the window, which even if I remove the sashes still aren't large enough to fit a sheet in.

The only other thing I can think of is plaster, as it can go up in buckets and the lath in rolls, but I'm shying away from that as I've never done plaster, and as it'll be apartments, I know from my own house that holes in plaster sucks to patch.

Am I missing any other alternatives?  Are there any tricks to getting drywall into strange places other than cutting it into smaller pieces and lots of mudding?

What about cutting the sheets in half before you carry them up? It will give you more joints, requiring more mudding though.


How to find a very low U-value replacement window for a bathroom? I found 0.27 for a Pella 250 series at Lowe's.  I would like to find a window with a lower U-value.  How do I go about that?

I pushed the big box salesman to (a) give me the U-values for the windows I was considering, and (b) play with the parameters in the ordering software, to see what added features did to the U-value.  I found out that Pella 350 with foam insulation in the frame, and triple pane, got us down to 0.17.  Which is what I want for the bathroom.

I was not able to get much in the way of detailed information from the Pella salesman.

I bought the big box (Lowe's) Pella windows.


Gutters above Garage Door on slanted driveway - is it necessary? The concrete driveway attached to my garage which is attached to my home is on a slant.  The water runs away from the home to the alley. I'm getting gutters installed for the first time. Do I need to have gutters above the garage door?  Thank you.

Water pouring off the roof will be an annoyance when you're driving or walking in/out of the garage door.
Water pouring off the roof will damage the concrete (take a look at the Grand Canyon if you're not convinced what water can do).
Despite the slope, water will splash, puddle and eventually get its way into your garage.

Yes, you should go ahead and get the gutters installed above the garage door. For the small additional cost, it's well worth it, IMHO.


Protecting a hardwood floor from metal chair feet I have a couple of barstools and a recently refurbished hardwood floor and I suspect that they might not get along.

Any ideas on things I could fix to the bottom of these feet or other solutions?

picture of chair foot

I don't believe there is a simple way. I'd epoxy glue a shaped wooden insert into the hollow part of the leg and then use a normal hammer in chair glide/slider. The glides/sliders with a heavy felt insert are good for wooden floors.


Are splices required in a junction box? If I have a conduit with 6 wires (3 separate circuits), and I want them to split at some point, can I send the conduit (A) to a 4-inch square junction box and then send 2 wires to leave the junction box in conduit B, and 4 wires to leave the junction box in conduit C?

All without splicing, just continuous run through the junction box.

Also, is splicing or no-splicing recommended one way or the other?

No, there is no requirement to make splices in a junction box.

However, if you're not making any splices, and never plan to. You can use a conduit body, instead of a junction box. Conduit bodies come in various configurations, though it sounds like a simple T type conduit body would be applicable to your situation.


Relocating a sink on the perpendicular wall: any cons against running ABS through the walls back the the old drain? I am relocating a sink from one wall to the perpendicular wall and I want to know if there are any potential issue with this
I am wondering if instead of breaking the floor I could do this:
just run ABS across the walls (1) back to (2) which is the existing plubing for the old sink
It is too tedious to create the traps in the diagrams but assume they are there

this is the new layout (please ignore the green pipe you see at the left of the picture)

Of course you could, but read the applicable code: your run is very likely too long to be unvented. You'll need to vent this - run another dry vent pipe higher up and tie it to your newly proposed "white" vent stack.


Remove protective coating quickly I have a contract to install a lot of kitchens. I have had to deal with protective film on doors before but I just picked at it, it takes forever to remove. I tried a heat gun this time but it wasn’t much faster. Does anyone have any idea on how to quickly remove this type of film?

Since it sounds like the film is disintegrating when you try to peel it:
Tape the whole surface, peel the tape (and film) off. You'll need a tape with an adhesive that's more stubborn that the film-to-cabinet bond. I'd probably start with plain old packing tape - fairly strong, usually has good adhesive, inexpensive, can be had wide. But you may need to experiment to find the best tape for the job.
Using a roller on the tape after application and before attempting to peel may help to achieve a better/more uniform bond to the film.


How can I fill a small hole in fiber cement siding? I've found a couple small holes in my home's fiber cement siding. What's the best way to fill them?

"If you have some small cracks and holes in your siding, you can fill them in with patching material specifically designed for this purpose, available at your local hardware store. Keep in mind that the patching will be obvious, whether or not you paint over it, so this is the best solution if the cracks and holes are in out of the way places that aren’t readily noticeable. If you have really big holes and cracks, then the siding will probably have to be replaced altogether."

Source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-repair-fiber-cement-siding#b


Locating exterior ground rod? Ground wire is disconnected in the back yard. I’ve dug around about the length of the exposed wire, but for the life of me I cannot find the ground rod.
Any tips on how to locate it or should I just install a new one?

A ground rod often has a steel core and may be locateable with a ferrous metal detector. It seems reasonable to search based on the length of the exposed wire. Is there evidence that the wire segment was connected to the rod - or might the wire have been broken "in the middle?" Depending on how the break occurred, if mid-span, the other piece of wire might have been displaced or even removed. Also, a ground rod can be completely buried under any depth of soil.
Depending on your soil the work of installing a new rod might be non-trivial but the new rod itself should cost less than US$15. Replacing the rod seems like an economical solution.


can i change out (2) 30-amp breakers with (2)40 amp breakers replacing water heater with a tankless one, breakers have to be (2) 40 amp I have (2)30 amp breakers now the electric wire is 10-2

Not unless you also replace the wires with 8 AWG wires, or whatever size is called for in the manufacturer's installation instructions.


Painted glaze with water based primer by mistake I grabbed the wrong can of primer and primed new window glazing with water-based not oil-based. I didn't realize the mistake until we were cleaning up. The glaze had been curing for 2 weeks and was still pretty soft. Do we just wait until it's fully hardened and sand the primer off? Other solutions?

It should dry in time if properly applied. I have not had any issues with water based but some things I still prefer oil based just old school I guess.


How can I determine what's behind a wall? I live in a two story house build in the 60s.  The lower floor(half buried) is only under half of the ground floor so I think there is a possibility that there is an extra room beside a wall in the lower floor.  When I knock on the wall it emits a hollow sound.

Any ideas on how I could find out if there is a room behind the wall without drilling through it or knocking it down?

Sure there are other ways, you could spend tens of thousands of dollars to have it x-rayed (they do this in commercial buildings), but realistically, drilling a small hole and using an inspection camera is the simplest and cheapest route.

You might also try contacting your cities building department to see if they have any plans on-file - this might show you what is there.


Does the lighting fixture size change the number of allowed wires in a junction box? In am working on a 1920s era home. The electrical system in the house has been updated several times in a very hodge-podge way. Originally the house had conduit in the attic going from light receptacle to light receptacle. At a later date, romex was run from those light receptacles to plugs in the walls. Now I am replacing all the old rubber and cloth wire because it is disintegrated.

I recently checked the conductor limits for these boxes in the NEC and found that nearly every fixture is way over the limit. For example, the bathroom fixture has 13 "wires" (a mix of 12 and 14 gauge!) in it and each box is only a 4.5"x1.5" round box. The wire limit for this size box is 5.

The lights in use before I removed them were the type that are flush with the ceiling and thus didn't allow for much extra room. I am wondering if the light fixture size changes the number of allowed wires. For example, if the light fixture has a big ceiling mounted box like this one:

Does that change the allowable wire limit?

And, if not, is the only answer to get rid of the current boxes and put in much bigger ones? Is there a better way of addressing this issue?

Here is a Code language excerpt for your situation:

314.16(B) Box Fill Calculations. The volumes in paragraphs 314.16(B)(1) through (B)(5), as applicable, shall be added together. No allowance shall be required for small fittings such as locknuts and bushings.
(1) Conductor Fill. Each conductor that originates outside the box and terminates or is spliced within the box shall be counted once, and each conductor that passes through the box without splice or termination shall be counted once. Each loop or coil of unbroken conductor not less than twice the minimum length required for free conductors in 300.14 shall be counted twice. The conductor fill shall be calculated using Table 314.16(B). A conductor, no part of which leaves the box, shall not be counted.
Exception: An equipment grounding conductor or conductors or not over four fixture wires smaller than 14 AWG, or both, shall be permitted to be omitted from the calculations where they enter a box from a domed luminaire or similar canopy and terminate within that box.

So, the light fixture you have in your post would qualify as a domed luminaire and the wires from the fixture itself can be omitted from the calculation if there are only 4 or less. However, this does not add volume to the box calculation itself.
Unfortunately, junction box overfill is probably the number one violation of the Code.
Good luck and stay safe!


What type of hose do I need to replace a pull out faucet? The flexible line on my kitchen faucet seems to be leaking and plumbing is not my strong point!  The faucet is an american standard (not sure the model).  I'm wondering what type of hose to get for a replacement as I cant seem to find the exact one and whether the bottom part of that copper piece just unscrews?

Unbolt at the section you've highlighted (yes, it should just unbolt), remove the weight, and bring the whole pull-out to the hardware store to ensure your replacement matches.


Is it safe to use a flexible duct near the end of an 18ft dryer exhaust run? I'm replacing a gas dryer in a condo that previously had 2 plastic flex pipes and a 5ft aluminum rigid duct.

I planned to replace it with rigid steel. I got most of it dry-fitted correctly, except the end of the run. There's about 2 feet between my new run and the exterior vent. See side-view image below (note: the picture does not show that the exterior vent is a little lower and also to the right):

The end of the run is in a tight area, in a small 3x3 closet that also contains a circuit breaker. To get through here with rigid steel ducts, I'll need several elbows and short extenders. I'd rather use a bit of semi-rigid flex vent in a small C-shape instead, for ease of installation and less seams.

The red dashed line in my picture represents where the flex duct would go. It would be about 2 to 2.5 feet long.

Is it OK to use flex duct near the end of a run at this length (about 18 ft total)?
(More generally) If a duct is going to require several quick bends and seams in a tight area, is it ever better to use a single flexible duct instead? If yes, how should that determination be made?

Edit: I ended up admitting to myself that I was trying to be lazy and fanangled a few adjustable elbows to cover this gap. I'd still like to know the answer to #2.

The drier installation instructions should typically have venting parameters that should be followed. That being said, rigid duct will always flow more air than corrugated flexible aluminum tubing. 4” aluminum flexible tubing flows approximately the same air as 3” hard pipe. All of the little ridges slow down air flow significantly. While a few feet of flexible tubing will probably not drastically reduce air flow I would always avoid it if at all possible. The less resistance the faster your cloths will dry.


Tap Into a 20 Amp Circuit Wired w/10 AWG Wire? I've purchased a house with an outside outlet about 100 feet from the house.  It is a GFCI, wired with 10 AWG outside rated wire (I assume because of the distance), run through conduit underground to the basement, where it ends at a 20 amp breaker. Inside the basement, there is a 12 AWG circuit that serves a nearby outside outlet on the deck, tapped into the 10 AWG wire inside a box. It all looks good, but question 1 is:  Is it legit to tap into the 10 AWG wire with 12 AWG to serve nearby outside outlet?  If so, can I tap another 12 AWG wire into the box to add another nearby outside outlet?  (I would probably use WAGO flat connectors rather than try to twist two 10 AWG and two 12 AWG wires together.). Thanks in advance!

You can combine whatever wires you want provided they are all large enough - 12 or larger for a standard 20A circuit, so 10 is fine.

You need to check each specific type to make sure, but there are definitely Ideal and other brands of wire nuts that can handle ranges of wires up to 4 #10.


Sprinkler valves are surrounded by tree roots I discovered that I have 3 valves that are wrapped around a gigantic tree root; see picture.  I noticed the dirt was moist.  And I know that at least 1 valve is bad.  Possibly 2 in this physical area.

I am getting a little worried that this is a job that may be require some advanced skills or a lot of man hours to fix.  I am probably going to call a professional.

What should I be looking to do here?  Reroute the lines? Cut the roots? Any tips or suggestions?

Part of the problem is that I'm finding it hard to find people that repair sprinklers.  A lot of companies tell me they only do new installations.  (North Texas area)

Literally working on a similar problem, minus the gigantic roots...

The problem with the roots is the roots: if you work around them, you work around them. If you cut them, you may kill the tree, which is a whole nother ball of wax.

Before you dive into the roots or replacing valves, consider just checking the valves for simple issues and troubleshooting around those principles. There are a plethora of videos on "how to fix a leaking sprinkler valve" - try some of those; if you have a screwdriver and won't melt from getting wet, the experience can provide a wealth of information just by diving in. This one is descriptive and educational - it might not solve your problem, but might give you enough insight to narrow your search. Worst case scenario, you break something and hire the professional you were going to hire anyway to install a new valve.

TL;DR: Troubleshoot the valves with online videos. It's not as scary as it sounds.


How to attach plastic (vapor barrier) to the studs? What's the best way to attach 4 mil plastic (vapor barrier) to the studs? I tried to use regular nails (sinkers 4d 1 - 3/8'') but the plastic sheet goes off the studs (through the head of the nails) any time I pull the plastic sheet a little bit.

Just doing some repairs on my (Canadian) house and it uses black foam glue (the tube said "acoustic foam") around the edges and nails with an L shaped right angle head along the studs


Does a refrigerator compressor need settling time after being laid on its back or side? A friend of mine mentioned that after laying my fridge on its side or back, that I need to let it sit for several hours before plugging it in.

In the discussion, he said that it was to allow the lubricants and refrigerants settle back toward the compressor so that it doesn't dry-pump, causing potential damage.

Now this does make a degree of sense, but is this actually necessary or standard practice? I've moved many times in my life and I can't think of a single time that we've ever done that... so is it actually needed?

I doubt it makes any large difference, but I have a Frigidaire that is about 5 years old.

As a certified HVAC person I can tell you it might work after standing back up and plugging in but depending on the system the oil drains from the compressor. On many units it takes time to make its way back to the compressor (if it can at all). I have seen brand new window AC units that were shipped on their side and turned on after several hours that blew the breaker. The oil went into the coils, and because of the design, the oil was trapped enough so when the unit was plugged in it destroyed the compressor.


Can I replace the power cord on an old electric drier, to fit my outlet? I just purchased a used dryer and the pigtail is different can I still use it if I can get it to fit, I know this sounds strange but when your on a budget do what I got to do with in reason...

If you mean that the cord has too many, or not enough prongs to fit in the receptacle.  You can buy the appropriate cord at any big box home improvement, hardware, or online store.

Once you have the cord, search the internet for the manufacturer's documentation for the appliance.  Then follow the instructions for how to connect the new cord to the appliance.


Insulating an attic ceiling I am planning to insulate my walk-in attic to turn it into a storage room(closet for the wife), but I am having some issue understanding the process.

The ceiling of this attic is at 45 degree. It has a 32 inch door to it. The attic above has old insulation, but that's another project.

I live in Connecticut and I believe I am in zone 5. How do I achieve the 38 r value with only 5.5x2 ceiling trusses?

I am planing of course to put rafter vents (baffles), and then use unfaced batts and then a dry wall. But the only batts I can use is 21 r-value with thickness of 5.5 in.

EDIT: I am NOT looking to use foam in this project.

My attic looks similar to the picture here.

You cannot achieve R38 in only 5 1/2 inches.  One of the highest rated insulations is spray foam, and it is around R6 per inch, which would require 6 3/8 inches at least. If you did fur out the rafters with 2x2s (1.5 x 1.5) then you would have 7 inches total to use and could install 1/2 inch baffles and have closed cell spray foam installed.  It would be expensive, but would give you a thickness of 6.5 inches, and provide R38.


How do I connect two switches with two lights? How do I wire two switches and two lights such that the second light can only be turned on if the first light is on? The second switch has no effect on the first light.

Note that colors here are the usual colors for US cables. If you are in another country, colors may vary. In addition, if you are using conduit then you can use different colors (but still use white for neutral):

Everything everywhere gets ground (green or bare). All grounds are connected, never switched, so ignored for this description.

From circuit breaker, black (hot) and white (neutral)
Switch 1:

Black from circuit breaker to one screw on switch
Other screw on the switch gets a short black pigtail
Pigtail connects to two black wires
White from circuit breaker gets connected to two white wires

Light 1 gets a black (switched hot) and white (neutral) pair coming from switch 1
Switch 2 gets a black (switched hot) and white (neutral) pair coming from switch 1. The black goes to one screw. Another black for the 2nd light goes to the other screw. The white wires (one from switch 1, one for the 2nd light) are connected together.
Light 2 gets the black (double-switched hot) and white (neutral) coming from switch 2.


Sliding Glass Door Locked from the Outside? How in the world could a sliding glass door lock on your from the outside.  I only open it at the handle and do not touch the latch or pin.  This happened to me recently and got locked out while out on my patio.  The lock to the sliding glass door in on the inside!

The latch mechanism ("hook deadlock" as mentioned by CactusCake) is generally installed so that the "hook" is facing up. But sometimes people install them upside down to where the hook faces down and if it is loose and sloppy, the hook falls down when you shut the door, locking you out.

Normal:

Upside down:


Home Security Camera that is easy to turn off I live in an apartment and want to install security cameras. However, I want the cameras to be activated (ON) only when no one is at the home (or when I want it to be ON). I do not want it to monitor (and possibly broadcast) me.

I am sure this is a feature lot of other people would be interested in and the cameras might be providing this. I just do not know what to search for? Or what is this feature called?

There are likely cameras that have such a feature. But a simple solution is:

Use wired cameras, not WiFi
Connect all the cameras to one network switch. If you are using PoE then you are likely to do that anyway, unless you have other PoE devices such as VOIP phones.
Turn the "camera network switch" off/on as needed.

If the cameras have no substantial memory of their own, then you could actually leave the network switch "on" but disconnect it from the rest of the network. That would avoid any power-cycle issues as the cameras would not lose power, while still preventing broadcast to a recorder (whether local or in the cloud).


Why won't my shower's temperature handle let the water get hot enough? Whenever I go to take a shower, I have to turn the handle to the absolute hottest setting just to avoid freezing. I know the hot water works in my house, so that's not the issue. It just seems like I should be able to make the water hotter if I could just turn the handle more. Is there a way to accomplish this easily?

Many faucets have an adjustable range.  In the last one I installed there was plastic ring with v-grooves around the outside of it: to adjust the range you positioned two stops that hooked into the v-grooves.

Recommend the TIA* approach to see what you can see - it may be very straightforward.  Just don't drop the screws down the drain!

*Take It Apart


Can I run cables into the side of my breaker panel? The top of my electric panel is fairly full with cables. When I add another circuit, can I run the cable through a knockout on the side of the panel or do I need conduit to protect the wires?

The NEC doesn't have a problem with cable entering a panel from different knockouts. In fact that's why they're there. But the entry point must be bushed to prevent the sharp edge of the knockout from cutting and damaging the insulation from the conductor and comes with a strain relief method. This can usually be purchased in any big box or even a local hardware store in the electrical section. They come in various types and manufacturers but the store should have someone there to help you select one.

Hope this helps.


The soil over the pipe from the well is subsiding The soil over the pipe from our well to our house has been subsiding for the last five years.  I'm looking for advice about what might be causing it and what I can do to fix it.

There are about 100 feet between the well and the house
The 50 feet closest to the well (away from the house) have sinking soil.
It seems to be worst closer to the well (starting about 5 feet from the well)
The worst subsidence is about 12 inches deep.
Nearest to the house, I don't see any problem.
I'm located just outside Boston (warm summers, cold winters)
The soil is dirt with granite rocks in it.  Not too much sand or clay.
The well is located slightly uphill from the house. No more than a 10 foot rise over 100 feet.

When I moved in, I chalked it up to being poorly filled.  I filled it in with dirt and wood chips.  That subsided more over the next couple years.   I chalked that up to the rotting organic material.

This fall, a 10 foot section about half way to the house subsided 6 inches.  I'm now thinking there is a bigger problem.

Could it be caused by a leak in the pipe that is washing soil away?   Our water pressure and quality seem fine.

What would be the next step to diagnose the problem and then fix it?

A well can allow oxygen into the soil where it will thin out any organic materials present, possibly causing subsidence. Without redigging the well using expensive methods it is hard to prevent this. Also, if the water is in a reservoir of some kind, reduction of that reservoir can cause subsidence. There is not much you can do about either of these problems except trying to locate the well elsewhere maybe.


How to transfer lumber cut with odd angles I am interested in learning this craftsmanship /technique:

Look like the piece of lumber in between has perfect cut to match the angles.

How did they transfer the cut dimension? Is there a tool for that?

I was thinking about using paper cardboard templates but even so, it's not perfectly lined up like the photo.

I've tried a few cuts like this and got one of the crazy devices shown below. It's a "multi angle measuring ruler". Even if you get the angles right, you still have to cut the wood accurately and that requires a good miter saw, and even then, be prepared to do it a few times to get the saw set just right. This is an art and it takes a lot of practice It's not as easy as Norm makes it look on "this old house'. Good luck.


switch with 3 black wires I was replacing outlets and switches in my living room. The last switch I came to was for an outside light. When I removed the switch plate there were 3 black wires, no white or ground. Two of the wires plugged into the back of the switch and the other attached to a side screw. I attached one wire to the top side screw on the new switch and the other two to the other side screw. Now the outside light is on all the time and the switch turns the two outlets in the room on or off. Whats up?

Sounds like you removed a 3 way switch and replaced it with a single pole switch.

If the old switch does not have on/off marked in the handle and it has three terminals it is a three way switch. You need to replace it with the same kind.

One of the wires is either the hot feed from the panel or it runs to the light. The other two wires are travelers running to another switch somewhere.


Dehumidifer outside to dry inside I live in a tiny place. I recently found a dehumidifier that could be placed outside. It has sensors that can be placed inside and connect to the dehumidifier.

Does it make sense to put the dehumidifier outside (so it will suck outside potentially humid air) and send the dry air into my place through a ventilation pipe ? Will this actually dry my place, as opposed to placing the dehumidifier inside ?

The dehumidifier sorry I could not find the description in english.

Your question is fairly broad without device information, but the theory is sound. You essentially pressurize your home with dry dehumidifier exhaust to expel humid interior air. This depends, of course, on your home not being perfectly sealed. This isn't a problem as no home is.

The challenge will be ducting the air into your home in such a way as to not create new leaks that will negate the benefit of the dehumidifier.


How to fix loose box newel handrail post Here's a link to the post and a video on it wobbling.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/huCeNoR4D79aDTJR9
In one video, you can see the whole post is moving quite a bit.
As you can see in the photos, I have access to underneath the stairs. And it appears they put a piece of pressure treated lumber under that spot with the post. There is nothing visible in the area under the tread.
However, I don't know how this post is assembled or attached. There's no plugs or anything on the post itself that I could remove to access screw or bolts. I see some brad nail holes in a few places. The top trim piece doesn't appear to have any brad nails or holes in it. Should it just pop off with a little pressure underneath?

To remove the post, I had to remove the trim piece under the handrail. It was held in with very fine brad nails and I had to wedge a putty knife in there to get it loose. That allowed me to remove the handrail from the post.
Once the post was free, I was then able to slide the post out. It was fastened with the keylock type post fastener. The fastener was screwed into the tread and 2x4 underneath and the screws had come loose. I tightened them, but I suspect they'll just come loose again.
I think the long term fix would be to use long bolts with a plate underneath to keep them tight.


Can I install composite decking directly on top of concrete? Is it ok to add a flat deck over this concrete pad( the pad is about 5 inches tall, and slightly slopes away from the house.
How would I go about adding decking over it. I'm pretty handy but just wants some tips.

Also would the same application apply for these stairs?

You can install composite decking on top of concrete but not directly. You would need to build a frame on top of the concrete similar to a normal deck. The framing could be smaller than normal, 2" x 2" and it would be secured directly to the concrete. The distancing of the "joists" would be the same as what the decking calls for. The reason for the frame is that the composite decking still need to be aired out. Your stairs would require the same type of framing. Stairs can be tricky so you'd want to check with local coded.
The problem you have with this procedure is that your concrete is all busted up and securing your frame to it correctly will be all but impossible unless you repaired it, which would be crazy.
You could build an entirely new deck over the concrete with a larger frame not supported by the concrete. Your best choice would be to remove the concrete and start fresh.


How to paint exterior wall when ladder needs to go from a roof section? I need to paint the front of my house, but there is a section of wall that I cannot get to with a ladder on the ground.
This is the house from the side, I need to paint (C)

The problem is that if I put a ladder on the ground (A) then its slope is too 'gentle' (opposite of steep) to be safe.
I thought of a simple scaffold tower but it doesn't gain me anything because the ladder slope from the scaffold would be the same.
I either need to place the ladder from (B) or use one of those rental crane arms (prefer to not spend the $ for a small section of wall).
I've seen these, https://provisiontools.com/products/roof-boot would they work as a way to secure the bottom of the ladder?  I have a roofing harness and would secure myself to the roof anchor just to be safe...

There are ways of setting up portable scaffold towers to handle this:

Setting them up is usually left to professionals though.


Wanting to make a frosted-glass dry erase whiteboard I want a frosted white glass dry erase board for my office. I can hardly find anybody who offers this without 'call us for prices'. I figured it can't be too difficult to make?

Purchase sheet of glass (from where?)
Cover the back with frosted spray paint or film
Drill through the glass about 1-2" off from each corner
Mount using mirror type of mounts

Any advice, suggestions or know of how I can accomplish this?

I've used Artscape window film with great results. From what I remember, you just cut the film to size and use a squeegee and water with a bit of soap to adhere it to the glass. I'm not sure if they have a solid frosted pattern though. You'll most likely want to find a sheet big enough that you won't have any seams.

One alternative to drilling holes for standoffs is to get edge-mounted standoffs like these:

Otherwise, if you like the look of something like this (note, you'll have to buy the bases separately) better, use carbide drill bits specifically for glass cutting. Make sure you've got plenty of support for the glass sheet. Make sure you're far enough away from the edge - I'd leave no less than 1" between the edge and the hole. Start on one side and drill partway through. Stop before you reach the other side and flip the glass over. Drill through from the backside to avoid chipping or cracking the glass.


Using a receptacle tester Bought a receptacle tester, most outlets are good, not sure how to read the outlets that have switches.

Outlet 1: tester reads good, when I turn the switch off it reads open ground.

Outlet 2: tester reads open ground, changes to open hot when I turn switch off.

What should it say when I turn the switch off?

In a switched outlet, the following is correct:

Switch on = normal (2 yellow lights)
Switch off = "open hot" (no lights at all)

The yellow light that comes on for "open ground" indicates whether an appliance will have power in that outlet.  As you might guess, it is connected between hot and neutral.

The other yellow light is connected between hot and ground.  It'll light if ground is good, but it'll also light in a number of nasty failure situations - Check out this link.

The red light is hooked between neutral and ground.  It should not light because there should be very low voltage (not zero) between neutral and ground.

For outlet 1, the "appliance power present" light is always on. That says the switch doesn't work.  It doesn't turn off power when you turn it off.  It does seem to interrupt ground -- what the heck???  Can the switch be switching the ground?  That's a very, very weird situation and I suspect you have a problem that exceeds the ability of the outlet tester.  It's possible someone didn't want that outlet to be switched, and rearranged wires until it wasn't.  Put it back.  Or at least put the grounds right.

For outlet 2, it sounds like normal behavior if the ground is not connected.

I think it's time to shut off the breaker and pull the receptacles and switches out and have a looksy.  If that isn't comfortable to you, then hit a library's home electrical repair section and school up.


Electrical question concerning GFCI The electrical circuit for my bathroom has an electrical outlet in the bathroom, the lights and exhaust fan in the bathroom, an outlet in the hallway immediately outside the bathroom, and the light in the hallway.  The outlet in the bathroom is a GFCI outlet.  When I test the GFCI, the GFCI outlet goes dead as it should.  Everything else, the lights, fan, and socket in the hallway stay live.   To me it makes sense that the socket in the hallway stays live because it is not exposed to moisture like the GFCI socket in the bathroom, but I’m not an electrician, so what do I know?

I have two questions:
Question 1: Is it ok that the hallway socket (in a dry area) stays live when the GFCI is triggered?

Assuming that is ok, here’s what I would like to do.  I would like to run a new 12-2 wire from the hallway socket up through the wall and install a new socket about a foot below the ceiling so I can plug in a CO detector.

Question 2: Would it be acceptable to run a new wire from the hallway socket to a new socket for a CO detector?   The GFCI in the bathroom should have no effect on the CO detector in the hallway.

The power that's intended for your bathroom stays in your bathroom!

First, the answer to #1 is yes, you are alright on that front -- the GFCI only has to protect the bathroom receptacles, not anything else on that circuit, as per 210.8(A)(1):

  210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for
  Personnel. Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
  personnel shall be provided as required in 210.8(A) through
  (C). The ground-fault circuit-interrupter shall be installed in
  a readily accessible location.

  Informational Note: See 215.9 for ground-fault circuit-
  interrupter protection for personnel on feeders.

  (A) Dwelling Units. All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and
  20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in
  210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.

  (1) Bathrooms

However, the answer to #2 is no -- neither the CO detector nor the hall receptacle belong on the bathroom (technically, bathroom receptacle, but many bathrooms invoke the exception to 210.11(C)(3) that allows the rest of the bathroom's outlets to be on the same circuit as the bathroom's receptacles provided that the circuit only serves one bathroom) branch circuit.  It's a 210.11(C)(3) violation:

  (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. In addition to the number
  of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at
  least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply a bathroom receptacle outlet(s). Such circuits shall have no other outlets.

  Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single
  bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same
  bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance
  with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

So, I'd find another circuit to tap for both the new CO detector circuit and the existing hallway receptacle.


Emerson Sensi Touch C wire help needed I am heating with a fuel oil boiler in the basement and a Unico air conditioning unit in the attic. I some help getting past the c wire issue. Air is using yellow, green and red-c and heat is using red-h and white. No c wire is coming from the boiler but the air conditioning unit is directly above the thermostat. I could pull a c wire if necessary. The problem is getting the Sensi Touch to control both heat and air. Is an isolation transformer a possibility? Emerson also tells me I can use an external transformer to power the Sensi Touch but it will only control heat or air but not both. Picture one is the Sensi Touch. Picture two is the wiring diagram from Unico. Is seems like this could work. Please help. We are pretty far out in the country and finding an A/C service tech who can help has proven to be impossible.

You just need to pull a C-wire from the AC air handler above the thermostat.  Most smart thermostats power themselves from Rc and C, and only use Rh to signal heating, so your setup is very "typical" and is what they design for.  I have seen a question where someone wanted to pull a C wire from the furnace (power from Rh and C), and that was more complicated and not "supported" by their thermostat, but you should be fine.


water is seeping out from under tub and soaking wood floor Could there be enough condensation under a metal tub to make it have visible water coming from under tub and soaking into floor boards?

Maybe, but probably not. Most likely there is a leak either in the pipes at the valve or shower head or the caulking or grout (if any) has failed. There is sometimes an access hatch on the valve wall (opposite wall-side). This will give you a view of the plumbing. If not look closely on the shower wall for any gaps or cracks that need sealant or caulking.


How can I connect additional wires to a receptacle? I have one receptacle/outlet with a hot, neutral and ground coming in from the electrical panel and a hot, neutral and ground going out (to where I don't know - there aren't any other outlets in the room). I want to add 2 receptacles/outlets to this existing one. I can't string one after another due to their position (one will be on one side of the existing and one will be on the other side).

The existing outlet is a GFI with no holes in the back for additional wires. So, there are 4 screws on the outlet and they are all taken up. How should I add my 2 new outlets to this existing one?

Do not think of using back stab holes even if they were there. Back stab hole connections can have their problems. I've seen more cases of intermittent connections when back stab holes were used for connections than I care to relate.

What you want to do is to bring your two additional branch wires into the electrical box. Join their safety GND wires in with the others already in the box. Then take the hot "load" side wire off the GFI receptacle and straighten out the wire nicely, Then join the two hots from your added wires to the now freed load hot wire plus a short hot pigtail wire. Join these four wires together with a good quality and appropriately sized wire nut. Push the joint toward the back of the electrical box leaving the other end of the hot pigtail sticking out the front of the electrical box.

Now repeat this for the "load" side neutral wire. Take it off the GFI and the wire nut the two added neutrals plus the new freed neutral plus an added neutral pigtail. Once again push the joint toward the back of the electrical box leaving the other end of the neutral pigtail sticking out the front of the electrical box.

Finally you cut the two pigtails to an appropriate working length, strip and connect them to the respective hot and neutral "load" side screws of the GFI outlet.


Grout floor then tile walls? I've already got the shower floor tiled (4'x8'- half in 2x2 on shower pan and the other half 1'x2' tile).  Im using epoxi grout on the floor, and regular grout of the same color on the walls.  Should i grout the floor first, then tile the walls?  (walls ar 9' high)

I would work from the top down, leaving the floor for the end to prevent damage to the floor grout.

It should not be a problem standing and working on the ungrouted floor, just make sure the thin-set is cured. Cover it with cardboard or some old carpet or something.


No water after reopening main water valve I closed the main water valve for simple repairs. After reopening it there's barely any water doesn't even register in the meter. The valve doesn't feel broken but I can't think of what could be wrong.

The solution:

Our main shutoff valve is a small gate valve. We had the city show up and shutoff the water to the house while the plumber replaced the main valve. Apparently it was a bad valve since everything is in working order now.

I'm going to assume it's a typical gate valve, and also since you said main water valve I'll assume it's the main shutoff just before the meter.

With these assumptions in mind, I'm going to say you will have to call your local municipality. The water company does not allow (or like) home owners to tamper with anything near (and defiantly not before) the water meter.

In fact, in lots of areas the municipality actually owns the pipe (and any fixtures) before the water meter. So this is not likely a DIY job.

When you call to have them come fix the valve, ask them to replace the broken gate valve with a ball valve.

If I have assumed incorrectly and the valve is on your side of the water meter, you can try to repair it yourself (see this question for how to do it) or you could just replace the broken valve.

If you are going to fix the valve yourself (it's on your side of the meter) and there is no other shut off before this valve, you will have to make a call to the municipality to have the water shut off to the building.

If you do the work yourself, you may have to get a permit and/or have your work inspected by a licensed plumber.


What is the least labor intensive way to clean these brass door knobs? I have 14 of these to clean and am hoping there is some quick way to clean 30 years of accumulated kitchen muck off them.

Brasso occurred to me. But I'm wondering if there is some solution I can drop them in, and they will come out clean after a good soaking.

Soak them in soapy water, then rub clean and dry with a towel. That's what I do with mucky pennies.


What are my dimmer options in this switch configuration? I have a setup in my basement where there is a 4-way switch setup, but none of it is run using 3-wire.  I've seen the term "California 3-way", so that might apply.
There are 3 switches involved:

At the head of the stairs there is a 3-way switch.  That switch has a two-wire running to its traveler terminals, and the common terminal is feeding the stairs light.

In the basement (basically at the bottom of the stairs) there is a 2nd switch, and it is a 4-way.  That switch has two 2-wires running to and from it.  One goes to switch #3, and the other runs back up to the switch #1.

At the opposite end of the basement is the 3rd switch, and it is another 3-way.  This switch provides the power and has one of the 2-wires that run to switch #2.

Each of these switches controls a light on the stairs, and the basement lights (there are two).
There is an additional switch about halfway across the basement that controls the far end light alone.  I would like to put the dimmer here.
I would like to replace the current basement lights with can lights, and in process introduce a dimmer.  I would love to divide the basement in half and do two dimmers, but since there's just one power loop, I assume this is either not possible or at least would require a ton of re-working the feed.
So I'm starting with step #1...can I introduce the dimmer anywhere on the loop and expect it to work right?  Or does it have to occupy a certain place in the power loop?

This is a plain old "bootleg 3-way".
What happened is the installer got cheap and used /2 when they should have used /3.  For neutral, they are simply bootlegging neutral off of ground.
This is completely illegal and it cannot continue in this configuration.
Unless you're willing to rewire all these cable runs, you're going to have to get pretty innovative to rescue this one.
Generally it looks like you'll need to re-task both former travelers to be actual always-hot and neutral, except at the very last location before the light.  That will be a smart switch "master".  The others will be smart-switch "remotes" and you will need to choose products appropriately.
What's more alarming is you may have a houseful of this kind of stuff, and a fair amount of work ahead of you.  This stuff is dangerous and should be corrected ASAP.


Condenser motor splice I recently had the fan motor on my condenser blade replaced.  The hvac tech left the splice outside the shroud.  He used a waterproof end to secure the splice and wrapped with electrical tape.  It is exposed though where someone could come up and touch it.  Is this to code (California)?  Does this look professional??

This isn't to Code

First off, we start at 110.12, which requires a "neat and workmanlike" installation, and this pretty clearly flunks that test since the wires could get weighted down into the fan blades with obvious bad consequences.

Second, I'd take this as a violation of 300.15, which requires splices to be in a box or other sort of enclosure (such as the motor terminal housing), save for a few exceptions that don't apply here.

Finally, I'd be asking what's under all that electrical tape for a splice...there are some definite 110.14 questions there.


AC shuts but fan keeps running After running for some time, AC shuts but blower keeps running.
NEST says no power to Rh line.
Have a Rheem Criterion, have separate breakers for AC and Fan. Twice, I have turned off both and after a couple of hrs, it works ok.

Would appreciate if I can get pointers to what is happening, and what I can deal do, short of calling in someone for a simple fix..
Thanks in advance...

Have you checked to make sure you don't have a hole in your ductwork that is pulling moist air into your home?  If you A/C is a "package unit" especially, you must determine the integrity of the ductwork, especially the large diameter hoses that connect the unit to the house.  If there's a breach, you could be pulling in too much humid air from outside which can cause the evaporator coils to freeze up.  Many units sense that the coils are still cold and will automatically run the fan until the temperature comes up.  In this case, the evaporator fan will tend to cycle on and off or simply run continuously in an attempt to disperse the cold air.


Sewer Line Clog suggests pipeline replacement Our 1963 in-city home has occasional sewer line blockages. Renting a power snake for $30/half day has gotten old. The city has scoped the line and suggest the constriction in diameter occurs 40 feet outside the house under a line of scrub trees holding a dramatic drop-off embankment in place to the city sidewalk, street & main sanitary sewerline. Because an iron pipe gas line runs adjacent to our sewer line, it appears it must be hand dug. I am hopeful that a 5 ft section of black ABS 4" pipe will replace the problem. Must I wait until Spring to dig? (It's Groundhog Day now.) How do I insert a five foot section into (between) rigid piping on either end? Will it require one or two rubber connection boots? How important is bedding that 5 ft on sand or pea gravel? How about fill above? I estimate the line to be about 2 feet below ground level. No room to get a backhoe nor "ditchwitch" to the site. Any tips welcome!

Loosen with a pick or mattock, move with a shovel, and be very careful of that gas line. Find the sewer line first from the side the gas line is not supposed to be on. 2 feet deep is easy.

If things are frozen now (I don't know where you are, since you didn't say) it will be more difficult to dig, but it can be done if needed. Otherwise wait for spring.

I'm not certain what the best approach to splicing the line in place would be. I'd guess 2 rubber couplers, because the still-buried pipe will not want to move. Mind you, at that age I'm also concerned with the distinct possibility that you might have 10 feet of cast iron and then change to Orangeburg (tar-paper) pipe, which is useless stuff by now (it ages poorly and age is upon it) and would involve digging up the whole run.

Bedding is important because otherwise that 5 feet can deform and interfere with correct flow in the pipe.


What are common causes of smelly HVAC? From time to time, there's this god awful stench coming from my floor vents.  It's not potent enough to where you can smell it directly at the vent, but strong enough to linger in the house and stink it up.  Some days, it smells like death.  Other days, it just smells like a dirty sink or bathroom.

I've ran an endoscope down my vents only to find your common dust and other misc. items (like ear plugs - why?).  I also went under the house (crawl-space) and took a look around and found nothing.  Insulation seems good, no leaks that I can see, and my A/C condenser appears to be running water to my sump pump correctly.

What are some common causes of smelly HVAC?  I'm really wanting to figure this out because the stench is not very pleasing to guests.

Additional Info: It only seems to occur on hotter days (>90deg F).  Pressumably when the A/C has to work extra hard.

The stench is certainly—due to your hot-weather-only mention—due to condensate dripping where it shouldn't.  While the majority seems to make it into the drip pan where it is safely pumped away, some condensate may splatter into the filter, plenum, and/or ducts where it activates dormant bacteria.  Also the "return" refrigerant line may well be cold enough to create condensate on its surface and drip to bad places.

I would start by taking a good look around the evaporator and air filter.  Temporarily remove the filter and see (smell) if the stench ceases.  Wipe down all surfaces around there (while the air handler is "off").  Maybe even spray everything with a 100% white vinegar or 5% bleach solution.

Also look at the evaporator itself:  is it partially blocked?  Does it look clean?  What about the edges which don't "work" as hard in not-so-hot weather?  Cleaning it requires great care not to block it further (by fin folding), but a hand-held spray bottle of water can gently work wonders in many cases.

As for earplugs in the ducts:  My wife sometimes uses them to get to sleep; they easily fall out during the night and travel surprisingly far by morning—either onto the floor or between the sheets toward the feet.  If there is a floor register within a few feet of the bed, I would not be surprised if they rolled right on down there.


What is the proper term for a huge chisel-like tool used for building log cabins? Cabin builders use this tool for about the same purpose as a regular chisel. It is about 4" wide, 1 1/2 foot long, and with a 1 1/2-2 foot long handle. What do you call it?

I think you may be talking about a slick:

This is what Wikipedia has to say:

A slick is a large chisel, characterized by a wide (2-4 inches, 5–10
cm), heavy blade, and a long, frequently slender, socketed handle. The
combined blade and handle can reach two feet (60 cm) in length. The
blade of a slick is slightly curved lengthwise, and/or the handle
socket is cranked upward, such that the handle and socket clear the
surface of the work when the edge is touching. This distinguishes the
slick from the similarly-sized, short-handled millwright's chisel.


Can I connect power supplies to each end of an LED strip? I want to run 45 feet of this product and run them daisy chain style ( 2 5m reels with a 9 foot piece in the center) and put a controller and power supply on both ends. Would that be possible?

Basics

A 12-volt, 300-LED 5050 strip needs 6 amps, or 2 amps per RGB channel.   That's 72W.

DC power supplies can be ganged in parallel if they're  of any quality.

On an interconnected system, there must be only one controller, period.

A system can be of any size, if extended by amplifiers and/or feeders.  So if you want to put mood lighting on the USS Intrepid, good news.

Amplifiers take the output of the one controller and use its signal to drive more strips.  This is used if the strip load exceeds the controller's capacity, or if you want/need to use multiple power supplies.

Everything I said above applies to the eBay cheapies. You don't need to go to exotica for any of it.

That kit is random leftovers

The stuff isn't even meant to work together. Obviously they're supplying 3A power supplies with 6A LED strips. That's why it's dimming out on you.   If you ganged both dc power supplies, you might have enough power to operate one 5m spool properly.

You assumed  it would work together merely because it was sold together.  Nope, those people do not care.  You have to watch your wallet when dealing with that bunch.

That said, you did not get ripped off.  The parts you can use, 2 reels and 1 controller, are worth the price on your link.

What you really need

Your 45’ loop will take almost all of 3 whole 5m/16' strips, or 18A, or 216W.  Per RGB channel, 6A or 72W per channel.

You will not find a controller that can drive 216W.   However, you can have the controller drive amplifier(s).  You can obtain a single amplifier that can drive 216W.  Or you can segment the strip and drive it with many smaller amplifiers, driven by multiple power supplies (or one), which may be easier to hook up.

You cannot drive 3 strips from one end.  The internal "wires" (PC traces) inside the strip cannot carry enough current to power more than barely 2 strips (10m) and even then, they will "dim" dreadfully down their length.

If you are seeing dimming down even one 5m strip, I would not be surprised.  Passing 6A (round trip) is a lot for those narrow PC traces. In that case, either split the strip or feed it from both ends.

Option 1: big power supply, 1 amplifier, feeder

Here you use at least a 300W DC power supply and the controller feeds one big amplifier.   The internal PC board traces on the strips can't handle nearly that much power, so you run parallel feeder wire.  This is 4 wires (RGB and common) that run parallel to the LED strips and tie back into it wherever feasible.  At the least I'd feed each end of each strip.

Option 2: split the strips and use smaller amplifiers

I notice they make some very inexpensive amplifiers with 4A rating.  That can comfortably power half a 5m strip, so you would cut the strips.   You would need to feed each amplifier from the one controller.  Each amplifier could be powered from its own power supply, or from the same supply, or any mix you please. For instance you could use two of those 3A supplies you have to power two half-strips, and then power the rest from a single larger supply.


what are the safety requirements for scraping old drylock? One basement wall is in pretty good shape, just going to wet and lightly scrape before painting with new Drylok.  Other walls are pretty bad, flaking and such.
I have 3M 8210 n95 masks, is that sufficient for scraping old Drylock ?  Going to find a way to ventilate the basement too.
Thanks.

Your primary concern would be with any lead-containing coating beneath the Drylok. Your secondary consideration should be for silica.
According to the CDC, an N95 is NOT adequate for lead dust, you need a P-100 or equivalent rating on your respirator.
For airborne silica dust, an N95 is acceptable.
So if you are relatively confidant that there isn't an old lead-containing coating beneath the Drylok, the N95 would be sufficient.