Extra vents required for Direct-vent furnace? I am finishing my basement and enclosing my furnace and tankless water heater in an unfinished utility room.  Both the furnace and tankless water heater are direct-vent systems pulling air from the outside.  Do I still have to put in the 2 vents (1 high and 1 low) in the walls for combustion air?  It's a 60,000 BTU input furnace.

To my knowledge there is no code requirement that the room be vented with high efficiency direct vent appliances. As you said, both systems provide their own combustion air from outside the building envelope.

However, it's likely that a tightly enclosed room will get quite warm at times. You may want to provide a means for heat escape.


How can I install an electrical panel in my shed? I recently purchased a house that has two 30 amp breakers going to a shed for lights and outlets. How would I go about doing that correctly?
Can I tie the two 30 amp breakers  to the shed together and install a 60 amp subpanel in the shed? Then have 15 and 20 amp breakers for the lights and outlets?
Any advice would be appreciated.

What you have is NOT legal and really should be corrected. You CANNOT have general use lighting and receptacles on 30A circuits, even with #10 wire. You also do need a means of disconnect at a detached structure.

You can use this feed to power a 30A-120/240V sub-panel using a tied two-pole 30A breaker in the main panel. This is only true if there are two hot wires, one insulated white and a bare or green ground. You CANNOT do this with only a 3-wire feeder.
You can use a small 100A main breaker panel being fed with the 30A feeder. The 100A main will only serve as the means of disconnect and the 30A breaker will protect the feeder wire.


Power outlet inside a kitchen island. How do I protect the back? My kitchen island has a wire for power. Surprisingly, nothing is connected to it so I'm going to install a power outlet.

I've replaced power outlets for walls before and generally the rear where you stick the wires in are exposed (because it's inside the wall).

However, this one will be inside the cabinet. I don't want anyone to be able to accidentally touch the back of the power outlet.

Is there anything I can buy that'll cover the back?

You need to mount an electrical box to the wall of the cabinet and put the outlet inside it.

If you can't easily do the work inside the cabinet, you can use a thin surface mount box on the outside.  The box screws to the cabinet wall, and you drill a hole through the cabinet wall behind the box to feed the wire into the box.  A standard wall plate goes over the outlets.

Here are a couples of examples from Home Depot:

Non-metallic example: (this one happens to come complete with outlet and coverplate)

Metal example:

As DrMoishe Pippik points out, a kitchen outlet needs to be GFCI protected.  If the wire was pre-run, it should come from a GFCI source, perhaps one of the protected kitchen outlets.  You could check this by temporarily connecting a load, like a light, or a voltmeter, and tripping the kitchen GFCI outlets with the test button.  There are also inexpensive outlet testers that have a built-in GFCI test button.  If the line is protected somewhere else, the button will trip it (and then you can search for its location, like in the garage or basement).  If the wire is not protected, use a GFCI outlet on the cabinet.


Electrical Socket Doesn't Work for One Particular Appliance Under my sink is a working duplex electrical socket.  My disposal works regardless of which of the two sockets it is plugged in to.  The disposal has a grounded (3-prong) plug and this duplex socket is the only thing on that circuit breaker.

My paper shredder (which has a 2-pronged plug) works without hesitation when plugged in to other sockets but does not work at all when plugged in to this socket.  The shredder is almost new, but just to be sure I have adjusted the prongs on the shredder's plug to move them to the sides to make sure they make contact with the (brand new) socket.  I have tried switching out the duplex socket with a different new socket, I have tried reversing the white and black wires going into the socket, and I have tried working the shredder with the disposal plugged in and with it not plugged in.  Again, the shredder will work in every other socket in the room except when plugged in to this particular socket.  (Upon further experimentation, no 2-pronged plug devices work when plugged in to this socket.)

I have a multimeter but don't really know how to use it in case anyone needs me to use that to diagnose.  What am I missing?

The easiest thing to test with is a receptacle tester:

But that won't find all problems, in fact there's a good chance it won't find this one.  Never decide you're safe just because a receptacle tester gives you a good indication!  Some of the problems they won't identify are dangerous.

Even testing with a meter won't find certain problems.  This article:

Outlet Testing Article

details the hows and whys.  It shows how a non-contact voltage tester like this one

Can spot some dangerous problems that other methods will miss.


House Has Different Types of Siding - How to look seamless? Alright, I am looking to purchase my first house. One of which looks somewhat like the one below. As you can see, it has a brick sided portion and a vinyl sided portion. Obviously this house has been added onto, like the one I am looking at. Is there a way that this house can be made to look seamless so it all looks original? I wouldn't miss brick but do like stone. Also, being that it has been added onto, is there anything I should look for?

It's mostly aesthetics, so opinions may vary.

I don't what your budget is, but I see many ways it could be improved:

The white siding part could be changed to match the beige siding to the right, or if the foundation allows it, replace the white siding with the same brick as the rest.
The white door could be painted (or changed altogether) to match the main door.
If the door in the white siding section is not used (there is no porch, so I guess it isn't), maybe you could remove it and center the window (or change it for a larger window).
If the door cannot be removed, can it be centered in the siding section? it would help to make it look seamless (and add a proper porch).


Hotpoint 9 cycle washer won't finish draining after agitate cycle My washer fills, then agitates, then drains out, but gets stuck draining. I can move the knob to get the machine to move to the next step in the cycle, but when it needs to drain again after the rinse, it won't stop draining. Again, I can move the knob to get it to spin out. The only issue I can detect is that the machine doesn't seem to know it's done draining. Thoughts?

Water pressure level switch. The knob automatically turns based on inputs from various sensors and switches. It seems your pressure switch gets stuck in a high pressure reading with the model of your unit I can be more specific, here's a link of what the problem likely is. https://www.thespruce.com/repair-washing-machine-water-level-fill-switch-1824607
This is possibly what you are looking for.


Do I need vapor barrier to insulate a cinder block garage? Similar to How to properly insulate a garage? and https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/31028/do-i-need-a-vapor-barrier-between-the-insulation-and-finish-wall-in-a-new-garage both of which do not have answers pertitent to my one particular question...

My garage is attached to my home.  It sits next to a long vestibule area and underneath the bedrooms.  All of the walls of the garage are cinder block, including the one which is common to the vestibule.  I am planning to hang furring strips, insulation board, and drywall in the garage.  I live in northeastern PA which has generally mild humidity apart from a few weeks each summer.  As part of this project I will be installing a new windowless insulated garage door.

Do I need to, or should I, install vapor barrier behind the furring strips and insulation?

As there will be a temperature differential between the garage and house it is a good idea as you could get some condensation here in winter even with mild humidity.  Where I live is almost desert but vapor barrier is still recommended due to cold climate.  Moisture reduses the effectiveness of insulation so for a small extra investment of time and money you ensure that your work stays effective for years.


Plumbing re-routed through attic We recently had a leak under our slab foundation and ended up going with rerouting the plumbing through our attic. After it was done, we have noticed that there is now a distinct odor (of the PEX pipes) from the water in our home (That wasn't there before). Will this go away eventually?
Also, we are not in a freeze zone by any means (South Carolina). But the new water lines in the attic are on top of the insulation and we have noticed that the cold water is also warmer than usual. Would insulating the cold water lines help with this? Should I worry about the new lines degenerating over time?
Thanks in advance.

I Build homes in Arizona and use 100% PEX in construction. To be honest with you I have never noticed any odor at all from the pipe so my guess is the odor must dissipate. I lived in a house that was PEX as well and did not notice a smell. I imagine it could be different if you are already living in an enclosed home when the PEX is installed, but there are no solvents or glues used so I'm still at a loss for where the smell could be coming. I hope this helps. You might reach out to UPONOR based in Minneapolis. I think they are the manufacturers.


How to wire main feed in a tiny house subpanel for 120v and 240v? Initially, I'm going to be plugged into basic 120v from an outlet.

However, I'll be moving in a year, and want to be able to plug into 240v if available.

How to achieve this flexibility in the subpanel? I'll need two outlets obviously, but will I need to just rewire the input to the main breaker when I switch between 120v and 240v?

Also, I bought a Homeline 100A main panel. However, the main 100A breaker it came with is setup for double pole. How do I connect 120v, 8-2 to this safely? Do I just have to connect to one side only with the one hot line and leave the other side non-functional?

Setting up the panel for a 120v 30 amp RV outlet would be my starting point. I would get a 50a 4 wire cord and wire it in the panel like normal red/black on the 2 main buss bars the white to the neutral buss and the green ground to the ground buss. Since this will be a sub from another feed the neutral and ground busses need to be isolated. Pull the green bond screw from the neutral to the case Or bonding wire out. Now wire the plug but don't use the one of the hots. Now in the panel use ether odd or even breakers the side connected in the plug. Later you will be able to change to the 50amp plug and the other side will be hot and you will have 240v available. I doubt both the hots will fit the 30 amp plug that's why I would only connect 1 at the plug, jumpering the 2 hots while on 120 could be done but is not safe in case you forget and put the 50a 240v plug on then there would be a direct short, not good. But with this method you would only need 1 cord this would save quite a few $.


How to build long, chunky bed supports I'm trying to build a bed frame similar to the one shown below.

I'm struggling to design the long, chunky white support beneath the top bunk.

It looks like its about 200cm x 18cm x 8cm.

For such a long structure, I've thought about using two softwood CLS beams glued together with MDF boxing, but this seems fiddly and I wonder how strong it would be with a child jumping on top of it. I imagine CLS beams flex quite a bit and any mdf boxing around it may crack as a result or the glue may break.

Then I thought about maybe using 3 layers of 25cm birch plywood glued together vertically to create a single smooth beam which can easily be routed on the corners and painted easily without the need for boxing. Although this much plywood sounds a bit heavy, but think it would be very strong for the weight in the vertical axis at least. It would be supported horizontally to the wall, so I'm not as worried about horizontal or sidewise movement.

I couldn't find many examples of creating un-supported boxing like this on the internet.

Does anymore know of a better/best way to create long but strong structures like this?

I'm just interested in the long horizontal beam and not about connecting it to the other bits at the moment.

Thanks

There is not a convincing reason this has to be any sort of box structure. In fact for a bed support like that a single USA type of 2x8 (actual 1.5"by 7.5" 38mm by 190mm) on edge on each side of the bed would be way more than enough support. The overall weight can also be accommodated by using proper means to join the ends to the vertical posts.

If you like the wider top surface of the beam next to the side of the bed then that could be easily attained by using two of the typical 2x8s side by side or spread them a small amount and then cap the top and bottom with thin plywood. MDF would work for the cap too but is going to be more susceptible to damage over time if it gets wet.


Wooden gate over concrete I am planning to put in a concrete widewalk around the corner of my house. I want to have a wood gate at the corner. Do I first put in the gate and pour the sidewalk around the posts or lay the concrete and attach the posts after.

The posts for your gate should be embedded in a good concrete base 2 to 3 feet deep. If the gate posts are going to be inside the edges of your walk, then I would install them first. It goes without saying that you should use PT posts and be sure the top of the concrete around the post bevels slightly away from the post so water will run away and not pond around the wood.


Can I add elbows to move a b-vent exhaust? I am planning out a kitchen remodel, and would like to move the main exhaust vent for the water heater about 4-6 inches from where it currently passes through the kitchen area.   The catch is that I cannot change its path through the upstairs without significantly increasing the scope of the project.  So I am trying to figure out if stepping it over through the kitchen, and then back to the original path would work.

The exhaust is 6in B-Vent.  Water heater is in the basement, has a short lateral run to the exhaust stack (which it no longer shares with the furnace), and then goes up through the first and second levels to vent through the roof.  I am thinking that rotating the lateral run about 20 degrees, and then a pair of 45s where we go into the second level should give me enough offset to do what I want in the kitchen.

Any reason this wouldn’t work/be safe? Or cautionary points to make sure I account for before setting off on this path?

Here is a quick sketch of what I have in mind:
(exaggerating the movement for demonstration purposes, not to scale)

Edit: I looked up the manual on my water heater as suggested, and it referred me to "the latest version of the International Fuel Gas Code".  Looking at the 2012 version of said code, I believe this is the relevant section:

  503.6.9.1 Category I appliances. The sizing of natural draft venting systems serving one or more listed appliances equipped with a draft
  hood or appliances listed for use with Type B gas vent, installed in a
  single story of a building, shall be in accordance with one of the
  following methods:

  The provisions of Section 504.
  For sizing an individual gas vent for a single, draft-hood-equipped appliance, the effective area of the vent
  connector and the gas vent shall be not less than the area of the
  appliance draft hood outlet, nor greater than seven times the draft
  hood outlet area.
  For sizing a gas vent connected to two appliances with draft hoods, the effective area of the vent shall be not less than the area
  of the larger draft hood outlet plus 50 percent of the area of the
  smaller draft hood outlet, nor greater than seven times the smaller
  draft hood outlet area.
  Approved engineering practices.

  503.6.9.2 Vent offsets. Type B and L vents sized in accordance with Item 2 or 3 of Section 503.6.9.1 shall extend in a generally vertical
  direction with offsets not exceeding 45 degrees (0.79 rad), except
  that a vent system having not more than one 60-degree (1.04 rad)
  offset shall be permitted. Any angle greater than 45 degrees (0.79
  rad) from the vertical is considered horizontal. The total horizontal
  distance of a vent plus the horizontal vent connector serving draft
  hood-equipped appliances shall be not greater than 75 percent of the
  vertical height of the vent.

I would interpret this to mean that the change I am wanting to make (using 2 45 degree elbows to create an offset) is permitted, as long as my pipe dimensions fall into the correct range(which they do).  Can anyone confirm?

Do a quick search online for the brand and model of the water heater. Most manuals for install are available online, but of course this will depend on the age of the unit. The manual (in most cases) describes the limitations of exhaust pipe distances and in particular the inclusion of elbows in the flue. It is important to check as elbows reduce the ease of flow and will effectively reduce the capacity of the exhaust and distance the flue can run.

So worst case it can make the installation unsafe and it is right to confirm with a professional or the manufacturer.


Cardboard case storage I have a large attic storage space above my garage.  Is there a fire hazard in storing cardboard boxes above a garage (unconditioned attic) in south Texas heat?

If you are concerned about cardboard auto igniting in heat, then you don't need to worry.  Paper has an auto ignition around 400 deg F.


Do natural gas furnaces have internal breakers? I rent a house with a natural gas furnace.  The furnace was not working at the beginning of this winter, and so we called the landlord to fix it.  The landlord hired a repair man, who came and noticed that the switch in the back of the furnace (attached to the furnace) was flipped "off".  I was charged $82 for this.  I know that neither myself nor my boyfriend touched the switch as we are NOT handy and do not ever attempt to handle repairs on our own, we simply call the landlord.

My question is, now I am wondering how that switch could have been flipped if we are certain we did not do it.  The property managers are saying that someone definitely had to have flipped that switch but I know we did not?  They are telling me that the furnace is not part of the breaker box at all and that shouldn't matter, BUT, do furnaces have internal breakers that may trip that switch?

The bottom line is it does NOT matter. Even if you did do something like this intentionally there is still NO way in hell you should be charged for ANY service call to a place you rent.

To answer your question, yes, it is possible, but to know for sure we'd need to make and model number of your furnace.

I hope you did not pay the $82!


Tile over Plaster (bathroom) I am remodeling a bathroom to add a shower to a previously tub only bathroom. It is an older home (Built late 40's) and I believe the two interior walls are lathe and plaster the exterior wall I believe is cinder block with a plaster finish.
The walls are not perfectly flat there is some minor bowing.

Can I apply the tile directly to the plaster without adding cement board?
How much bowing is too much to fix with quick set?
Any other words of advise?

Thanks,

You may not have lathe, but compressed board under the plaster and scratch coat. Either way; if plaster is any way compromised you should tear out to studs and start over. Bring plumbing to code; add a diverter and shower line in the wall; cover with cement board, tape off. Follow manufacturer instructions to a tee. Or, flatten walls with a latex modified skim coat product. When dry, waterproof with Custom Building Products Red Guard or better, Schluter Kerdi. Do not use type 2 mastics with these products. Please follow instructions properly. Showers see more water than a rain forest. Showers are labor intensive. Do it right the first time. Hope this helps.


Wiring replacement AC contactor My air conditioner replacement contactor has terminals labelled L1, L2 and T1, T2. Are the L terminals the line in (power) and the T terminals the output that goes to the compressor and fan? Its part is c25bnb230t and is made by Eaton.

Here's a link to the datasheet. The full part number will identify which one you have:
http://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/772fae44f4baf4fd6f22e9b824e60f47.pdf

I had to do some googling myself to ensure that the "T" side is the LOAD. The "L" side is your Line end.


Can I clean up and tape old unfinished drywall in the garage? Purchased a house with a partially finished garage. The ceiling and walls have drywall, but no taping. The previous owners have nailed numerous things into the wall over the years and of course since it's a garage it's quite dirty.

Can I fill in the holes and dust off the drywall and then just tape it? Or, is there some reason where due to how long the drywall is exposed and it being super dirty that would make this a bad idea?

Yes you can clean patch and clean then texture to your hearts delight. I have done this in both garages and bonus rooms that the paper was yellow with age. After wiping down I taped and muddled then sanded wiped down and shot the texture, it has turned out great and just this little bit of work has added thousands to the appraisal, so it is worthwhile and will look much better. If the surface is oily a Tri sodium phosphate (or replacement chemical) may be needed for the wipe down just don’t go two wild with the water.


Can these locks be rekeyed to the same key? I have 3 external doors on my house. Each has a different key. Two are Schlage sets and one is a Norwalk. The Norwalk blank says AR1 on it, and the Schlages are the standard version.

The Norwalk is what I'm most concerned about. It looks vintage, and is a sash lock. Turning the key operates both the deadlock as well as the latch. I don't know if these two systems can be made to work with the same blanks.

I would like to do this myself, but am currently more curious if it is possible at all.

Is there a way to have all the locks share a common key?

With that last bit of info, there is no way to key the Norwalk alike with the Schlage using the existing tumbler, it must be replaced with a Schlage or even Baldwin tumbler, which has a Schlage keyway. Yes you can still do it yourself but you must remove the tumbler, take it to the locksmith and have it matched up. This will only save you a house call charge. The screws to remove the lock are hidden behind the latch plate most of the time. Sometimes there are visible holes through the latch plate to access the set screws for the lock. Just the Norwalk tumbler needs to be swapped out, not all three. But the locksmith will need to know the key that it will be change too as well otherwise he may give you a 7 pin Schlage tumbler.


Power equipment for removing compacted gravel? I have a gravel driveway in my front yard that I want to remove to put a garden bed. The gravel is large (1/2" to 1" dia.) and very compacted, so it is nearly impossible to remove by hand.

I want to rent some small power equipment to do the task, but I'm not sure if a skid loader, excavator, or something else is the right tool for the job. Opinions?

Nope, you don't want to remove a stitch of it. What you want to do is take advantage of what you've got & capitalize on the perfect setup for a perfect garden. A Raised Bed Garden on top is what this has been patiently waiting for. The gravel is key to keeping pests at bay & to relieve overwatering. This is why garden centers & nurseries have gravel all over & under...no yucky mud.

SEEEEE

OOOOh

AAAAAh


How can I unscrew this nut with little clearance? I am trying to replace my kitchen faucet and have encountered a nut that I don’t know how to get at. As you can see the nut is bounded by counter (green) on one side and sink (red) on the other. I’ve tried various wrenches but can’t seem to get them in there. What’s the right way to get this thing off?

The pipe that it’s on is about 2.5 inches long.

What you want is a basin wrench:

(Source)

The left end pivots so you can reach up under the sink and access the nut.

That said, you have some serious corrosion going on there. You might have to go with destructive methods, perhaps involving grinding off the top of the faucet.


Attic Access Hole in Ceiling - Guidance I need to have attic access in my bonus room. The space above the ceiling is very tight, but there is inadequate insulation and I need to add support for a projector. I will be crawling around up there as I'm 6' tall.

I've been nervous about cutting a hole but it is time. I wanted to get opinions on where to put the access.

First Choice: this is the first I chose because it's right when entering the room and will be hidden when enjoying a movie on the other side of the room. This is right in front of the stairs on the other side of the light in the picture.
Second Choice: I noticed this after measuring for the first choice; it's much more hidden. It might be less headroom. The third picture is the outside area.

First Choice

Second Choice

Second Choice - Outside

View of Attic Space

That looks to be VERY little space and a one-time need, so I'd just hack (neatly, with an eye to the repair that comes later) enough holes in the drywall to do what you need to do, (from below, standing on a ladder or platform) and then button them up. While I hate this approach IN GENERAL, for the specific case of a TINY attic space that will end up pretty well full of insulation (hopefully with vent channels along the roof deck) there is no conceivable need for a permanent access hatch, and drywall repair is going to be a lot cheaper than a virtually useless attic hatch/ladder. It's pretty obvious from the first picture that there's hardly room to crawl up there (and probably not really enough room for a good insulation job, at a guess.)

Alternate approach judging by the doorway/frame height would be to run new ceiling joists below the current ceiling, move the light fixture(s) down to that, build in the projector reinforcement of the your dreams, and insulate the newly gained "attic" space between it and the old ceiling. You probably can't do anything useful to the sloped sections unless you are willing to lay foam sheets and more drywall over them, losing a bit more space in the room. You could still open up the original ceiling and do what you can do for the insulation above it, but rather than repairing its drywall, you'd just do the new drywall on the new, lower ceiling.

Unload the room and cover the floor before you start cutting - it will be messy.


How to Hang TV on SIP wall We want to hang a 65" 70-lb TV on a SIP wall with an articulated mount.  The SIP wall is a sandwich of two 18mm/0.75" OSB outer panels filled with 8" of a "solid" insulating foam (and covered with drywall).  There are no studs anywhere near the mount area, and we can't use toggle bolts as they won't expand due to the inner foam (a professional already tried).
The Sony (SU-WL855) swivel mount can swing out the entire TV about 6" from the wall.
I believe the best solution is to mount a hardwood board on the SIP wall and then fasten the mount to the board, but have questions.

Is there a better solution?  (Or is this even safe to do?)
If this is best, what panel would be best - I am thinking either 1/4" or 3/8" hardwood, about 2'x3'.  Recommended dimensions and thickness/material?
To mount the wood to the SIP wall, I would think screws would be best, but some people say nails are better with OSB.  Screws or nails?  And what is the recommended size (obviously about 1.25" long thru mount board, drywall, and OSB, but what screw size or nail size)?
What have I missed?

Just mount it to the wall with short lag bolts. 3/4" OSB is a solid mounting surface unless you soak it with water.
Since you did not specify drywall thickness, you basically want a lag bolt roughly 1/8-1/4" longer than 3/4" plus drywall thickness - so if 1/2" drywall, 1-1/2" lag bolts. Predrill for the core of the lag bolt so it's just cutting threads with its screw, not trying to crush a hole in the wall (as per normal for proper use of lag bolts.)
If mounting a supplementary board to the wall, don't fool around with 1/4-3/8" thick - that's not going to hold (nor help) much at all. Cut out the drywall to the size of your board, use at least 3/4" solid wood or plywood, and attach directly to the OSB with construction adhesive and screws equal to the board + the OSB thickness. Let the adhesive cure before mounting the TV, with lag bolts.
...sent from inside my SIP house.


No C terminal on furnace. Workarounds? Possible the AC? I'm Trying to connect my C wire to install a new thermostat but the furnace doesn't have a C terminal. In my readings on this I found that because I have an AC,I can connect my C to one of the wires coming from the AC unit as that is the AC's C. This would be cap 2 in the pic below. That wire connects to ground. Would this work for me?

In your pictures, there is a 24vac transformer:

It has a red wire and a green wire coming off the bottom of it (wire colors are more apparent in the other pictures).  The green wire then gets grounded to the case of the furnace.  This is the common wire.  In the top left of my picture, there is also a blue wire attached to the case.  This is also the common wire.  Blue is the typical color for common, so splicing into that blue wire (it most likely already has a wire attached to it somewhere that goes to the A/C unit) is the best thing to do.

Note - not all blue wires are "the common wire".  The particular blue wire I pointed out is, but don't assume that all blue wires are ok to connect to.


Stacking new drywall on top of drywall that is behind tile First post here.  I am currently doing a small remodel of a bathroom in a house I just bought and am trying to keep costs and time spent, low.
I had to tear out all the drywall due to the previous owner/s painting over wallpaper and not sealing the drywall before the wallpaper was applied (this causes the wallpaper to be nearly impossible to get off without ruining the paper backing of the drywall, too).
Anyway, I want to avoid redoing the tile.  I have removed the drywall to the point where there is still drywall behind tile baseboards and tile backsplashes and such.
Does anyone know of a good way to stack new drywall on top of the old drywall that still sits behind the tiles without it looking like a hack job?  I was thinking of using some sort of drywall bead but don't know it that will work out best.
I've attached some photos for reference.  Thank you all in advance!

Add blocking and run the sheets horizontal or vertical with a j trim bead. Fill gap with mud. Paint then caulk the tile to drywall transition


Wiring HVAC for smart thermostat I'd like to install a smart thermostat in place of my old mercury coil thermostat. The old thermostat controls both heat and AC - it uses only 4 wires, the new clearly requires 5.

Wiring to the thermostat won't be a problem as it is inches away from the furnace and the 4-wire will be easy to replace with a 5-wire.

I've taken the panel off of my furnace and see there is a transformer and a common wire. There is a notice that says "yellow 24v common wire is for outdoor unit only" Does this mean I can't add a yellow wire to my thermostat?

Inside the unit I see yellow, black, blue, red, green, and white wires. I have blue, white, red, and green going to existing thermostat. can I just loop a new 5-wire brown wire to that yellow?
Edit: Furnace Photos:

It seems there are two brown thermostat wires. The first goes into the wall and has 4 wires and emerges where my thermostat is.

As near as I can tell, We need a common wire. My furnace has a transformer:

There is a warning on the door of this transformer:

A closer look at the rat's nest...

I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. I know it's a suntherm H02 series heater.

Alright - this installed and working.

It took a little bit of time to figure out what was going on with that crazy wiring without the benefit of a wiring diagram. We reverse engineered the wires based on where they were on the old thermostat.

The thermostat came with a c-wire adapter which basically allowed be to wire the unit using the existing 4-wire cord. I'm pulling the 24v from the transformer and, so far it's not running under-voltage. If that changes then I guess we'll have to install another transformer. So far so good though. Thanks for the comments!


Small compressor and mini hvlp spray gun vs powered spray gun I am starting a DIY project of painting my cycle frame. After experimenting with spray cans I realised that it's very expensive and also pressure from can is not consistent.
Due to limited budget I can only buy small compressor and mini hvlp gun matching the compressosr's CFM. Or I can buy powered spray gun.
I want help in understanding if there are benefits of going with compressor and gun. Powered spray gun will be compact as compared to compressor. Also powered spray will be cheaper.
Will there be difference in paint job quality between compressor+gun VS powered spray gun.
In future I might paint some other small objects, I don't think I will ever take up painting a car or or anything.  Mainly because I done have a car.
Compressor:
Product Type : Air compressor
Brand : Imported
Metal : Cast Iron
Auto Cut : Yes
Cylinder : Single
Motor Type : Single Phase AC
Manometer : Yes
Power : 2 HP
Pressure : 7 Bar
Tank Capacity : 24 Litre
Dimensions : 580 x 270 x 600 mm
Air Delivery (CFM) : 110 lpm
Weight : 25 Kg
Gun:
Model No. : ASG1061
Product Type : Spray Gun
Brand : Ingco
Standard nozzle : 1.4mm
Pattern width : 180-250mm
Paint capacity : 600ml
Optional nozzle : 1.3-2.5mm
Operating pressure : 2-3.5bar
Air cons : 4.2-7.1cfm(119-200l/min)
Powered spray gun:
Model No. : SPG3508
Product Type : Spray Gun
Brand : Ingco
Input Power : 450 W
Voltage : 220 - 240 V ~ 50 / 60 Hz
Spraying Pressure : 0.1 - 0.2 Bar
Max. Viscosity : 50 DIN-s
Max. Flow : 380 ml / min
Container Capacity : 800 ml

As I'm sure you're expecting to hear, you get what you pay for. Likewise, there's tons of information online.
In my experience, I'd say you sound like you should stick with rattle cans and work on your technique. Rattle cans aren't the problem - over time you'll learn how to feather with them, how to anticipate when they will spatter, how to work upside down and in between, and you'll learn which products are able to achieve the quality you want for your finish.
If that's not what you want to hear, then the easy answer is: Sure, buy that off-brand gun and give it a whirl. See how it works, maybe it's fine and maybe it lasts long enough for you to feel like you got your money's worth. However, if you're spraying a bike with a finish you want to stand up to the road, you're probably using a thicker paint, and those types of sprayers tend to work poorly with all but the least viscous paints - the product data for the paint itself will determine whether it can be cut to reduce viscosity. If you intend on using paints that are too thick for the sprayer to handle and the manufacturer doesn't tell you how best to thin it, you might try an appropriate additive or cut it with whatever solvent it uses to improve the flow aka lower the viscosity, but then you're diluting the paint and can easily result in failing paint. In general, paint chemistry isn't meant to be diluted or reconstituted.
The other options are far more expensive.
Given the types of projects you describe wanting to work on, given that you are looking to make an investment in dedicated equipment, and given that money is a problem: the first thing beyond the options above that you should be looking for is a low pressure low volume sprayer and prepare to get deep in the weeds.
(If you're thinking of a hobby type gun, I guess that could work, but it's going to take a lifetime to paint anything as big as a bike with the coating thickness you'll likely want since they're meant for stuff on the order of a small damaged section on a window sash or miniature figurines. A bike is not a small object. A model bike is a small object in terms of spray equipment.)
Getting into dedicated spray equipment is a deep rabbit hole. Just keep in mind two things:

This site's rules prohibit product selection advice.

and, as mentioned, it doesn't matter the means - whether you go with rattle cans or powered spray equipment - the methods do the work. Technique and paint quality has the greatest impact on your outcome. Granted, like with most things, purpose built equipment will help a lot.

In all cases, you'll need to consider the equipment's cleaning process and required materials. For a rattle can, you just turn the can upside down and spray until all the pain left in the siphon is ejected. Whereas, dedicated equipment cleaning requirements are model specific.
Being on a budget, you're going to be looking for a LVLP gun - you'll need to do your own research on the position of the paint reservoir and the extraction process as they will have a big impact on number of setups and your ability to continuously spray 360 degrees and complicated shapes like a bike. This equipment is still far from being cheap. Your choice of compressor will need to be based on providing adequate volume in order to maintain a reasonable duration at the pressure your spray gun requires. You'll need means to extract moisture from the line. You'll need to know how to work with air hoses and fittings. You'll need to consider the impact of the noise of the compressor if that's an issue. Keep in mind that spraying with compressed air presents a number of challenges.
Dedicated staged airless sprayers: The thing to bear in mind is the more stages, the greater the ability to atomize thicker paints and the longer spray duration. These heat up as they spray as well, but with these it can damage the equipment. The fewer the stages, the lower the cost, but the faster it heats up.
A note on the pot sprayer on a compressor that your dad used to use when he was a carpenter: essentially the same setup as the LVLP recommendation above, but get ready for a mess and it's historically technically been an EPA violation.
Now all this is assuming you are aware of the overspray considerations once you move beyond rattle cans.
Good luck and have fun!

(Edit)
Read these links for an articles that flush out the upshot of the solution above:

'How to Set Up an Air Compressor for Spray Guns & Painting'.

'Paint Spray Gun - How To Pick A Paint Gun'.

'Which HVLP Spray Finishing System is Right for You'.

Read these for context (OSHA regulations, EPA regulations), and bear in mind that although personal small-scale spraying is not subject to federal air quality regulations, the improved transfer efficiency and material savings versus the HVLP makes the operational cost over the lifecycle of the LVLP equipment significantly less than HVLP finishing systems.

Essentially, if you go beyond the cheapo "finishing system" options (rattle can or an all-in-one sprayer) every piece of equipment will need to be evaluated for the impact of it's performance spec on your entire process ... for example, two things to keep in mind:

Remember, high volume means lots of paint. Make sure you prepare for the overspray and the

Remember, the cost-time-quality pyramid (if you don't have much money and you want quality, you better be ready to make up the difference with time investment).


How can I shorten barstools temporarily so I can reattach the bottom of the legs? I have a couple solid-wood-legged barstools that I want to temporarily (for a year or so) shorten by 6 inches.  Is there any good way to cut the legs so they'll be more stable upon reattachment?  Or any good way to reattach them solidly?

This sounds like a problem that's best avoided rather than solved.

I'm picturing a "classic" wooden bar stool where the legs are not vertical, but tapered out to be wider at the bottom than the top, e.g.:

This means that the legs experience a bending load when someone sits on the stool (imagine someone trying to pull the legs wider apart at the bottom).

The parts of the legs that help resist this bending load are the wood fibers around the outside (circumference) of the leg, the center of the leg doesn't do much (and doesn't need to).

If you cut the leg and re-attach with a hanger bolt or double-ended lag bolt, you've prevented the critical parts of the leg from doing their job--you've severed the outside fibers, and attached the leg only in the center. You can imagine that a leg put back together in this way wouldn't be hard to break over your knee. Therefore, it wouldn't be great in resisting the bending load that it needs to. It'd be fine as a plant stand, but I'd be sweating if Norm stopped by for a drink.

Norm http://barsbyal.com/user/cimage/c-norm-03.jpg

The only solution I can think of to retain the bending strength is some kind of a slip-fitting like you'd find on a patio umbrella or kayak paddle. By the time you're done buying and installing all the slip fittings, you'd probably be better off buying a second set of stools.


How can I reattach a drain pipe that detached under the sink? Recently, I had a clog in my bathroom sink that I wanted to attempt to fix myself. Believing the clog to be in the P-trap, I bought a pipe wrench, removed the trap, cleaned it out, and attempted to fit it back onto the sink (side note: the clog was actually at the top of the drain, which I later discovered; who knew?). However, when I attempted to reattach it, the pipe that drops down from the base of the sink came detached — it appears that it was only held on by some kind of seal between it and a rubber washer. Now, when I run water, it leaks out of the base of the sink (and also the top end of the P-trap, but I may not have tightened that enough).

How should I go about reattaching it? Is it as simple as getting some kind of putty to fix the seal, or am I maybe not aligning the P-trap correctly?

Edit: I thought an illustration of the problem might be helpful: https://vimeo.com/68243871

It appears from the video the sink bottom connection is assembled wrong. From top to bottom you should have sink, rubber gasket, metal flat washer, brass nut. This or the P-trap connection do not need to be super tight, firmly snug should be enough. If the connections leak when snug, the gasket or sealing ring is likely damaged, or possibly their mating surfaces are not clean and smooth.

More disturbing is you say drain/popup detached from the sink when you were fussing with the P-trap? This should not be possible. If it did happen, the drain/popup is broken and needs to be replaced. This is not something you could have done alone, it was ready to break anyway. The flange you see when standing over the sink is part of this assembly, the large nut underneath sort of clamps the sink between the rubber gasket and this flange. The drain/popup is normally installed by dropping it in from above. If it came out from the bottom it is broken.


Rigid board installed after framing in Interior Basement Walls - Should I be concerned about trapped moisture? I am helping my brother-in-law finish his basement. I noticed the framing was done first then the insulation was added after.

It looks like rigid foam board was pressed up against the concrete wall and added in between the studs. My primary concern is I am noticing a small pocket between each stud on the wall.

I am adding two images Below. See Both Images for a better example of what I am trying to explain:

My Conerns
- Will this pocket be a serious cause for moisture build up? Is rigid foam board up against the foundation wall a bad practice on a finished basement?

Other Notes
- We are in Climate Zone 4. His basement has a Radon Mitigation unit (if that remotely helps with humidity below the foundation?). His basement does get moist at times but nothing to crazy. He is using mineral wool insulation.

Air layers in insulated walls could help to carry the condensed water out (if the air can circulate) - otherwise it could accumulate moisture.

It depends on the sequence of layers. In this wall here the insulation layer is at the inside of the concrete layer, which could be a problem.

To get precise information, this web site may help:

Ubakus.de

By inputting the layers, possible problems will be shown in a second.

Experimenting/researching is easy by switching on/off of layers.

R-value can be shown by clicking on the spanner/tool icon next to the U-value.

It is free for private use.

Fastest way is to choose an adequate example (menu) and to edit the layers.


Are there websites to manage home improvement projects? Are there any websites where you can create an account to manage your home with things such as:

Layout or floor planning
Budgets, project logging
Wiring plans

I'm aware of FloorPlanner.com and Google Sketchup, but those are rather specific and I'm hoping for a more complete site to consolidate my home information/plans.

There are products that do that

Chief Architect comes to mind, though its an install-on-your-PC program, it does all you ask.

I have its little brother Home Designer, which lets you do the design, visualization and parts lists, and gives you an upgrade credit to CA if you need more power.


Should additional bed slats fit over or around the existing spacer blocks? There are 10 slats (~108cm length, ~9cm width, ~3.5cm thickness) on my bed right now spaced at ~11.2cm. Unfortunately, these slats are spaced too far apart and will void my hybrid (pocket spring with foam comfort layers) mattress warranty and it is generally advisable to have slats spaced closer together to provide better support for the pocket springs and reduce sagging risk.
I am planning on adding extra slats of width 6cm to the bed: 1 in between each existing slat, so there will be 9 extra slats in total. However, there are wooden spacers between each slat, as demonstrated in in the image below. The wooden spacers have a width and thickness of ~1.6cm. Two options come to mind and I am not sure which would provide better strength:

Adding extra slats of thickness 3.5cm like the existing slats but adding a notch at the ends so that they can fit in at the side rails.
Adding extra slats of thickness 1.9cm without a notch and resting them on top of the wooden spacers

Which would you recommend? Are there any alternative options that are relatively simple?

Option 1 looks good - you could screw them into position or fit spacers between.
Consider spacing the slats so they match the pocket springs...
Another possibility is to put a board over the slats then there would be no gaps.


Concrete driveway in New England? I need a new driveway and I was wondering if my only option is asphalt?
I'm in Connecticut - does anyone know if I can have concrete driveway?

Sure you can have one, no one is going to arrest you for putting it in.  However, concrete has a few distinct disadvantages in the north, most notably it is brittle so any heaving caused by freeze/thaw cycles will cause large cracks and there chances of a lip developing (a trip hazard unless ground down) are high. The only way to prevent this is to make the driveway and gravel underlay very thick (which costs more) to reduce the amount of frozen soil below it. Also, regular thawing salt (potassium chloride) is bad for common unsealed concrete.  You need to use Magnesium chloride (which costs more) to prevent damage to the surface.

Here is a good article that discusses more pros/cons: http://www.silive.com/homegarden/homeimprovement/index.ssf/2010/04/asphalt_vs_concrete_driveways.html


How do you deal with a gap between vanity and wall? I glued in the vanity backsplash, and I used a tad too much glue so it doesn't sit tight against the wall.  Furthermore the wall is not straight and even when I lined it up before gluing, there was a gap in places.
I would estimate the gap size at 1/8" max.
It's not the biggest deal, but it's annoying, and as you can see, a tiny bit of drywall fell into it (indicating that it may collect junk in the future).  How would you recommend dealing with this?  I could use a tiny bead of silicone caulk, but I'm not sure how that'll look, and undoing that will be annoying.

A semi-flexible trim such as a real wood or PVC quarter-round could be nailed to the wall, following its contour and concealing the gap. Because this is a wet area, definitely don't use an MDF type trim.
If not trim, then caulk. Silicone caulks usually aren't paintable but latex caulks are. A bead of latex caulk painted with leftovers of the wall paint might be less noticeable than the dark gap with dust and crumbs collecting in it.


What is the proper way to start sheathing an exterior wall? On new construction, what is the proper way to install the exterior OSB wall sheathing?

Should I go for a perfectly level sheet install, and then level each corresponding sheet or is it better to just follow the edge of the sill plate and end up with potentially non-level panels due to the foundation not being floated perfectly?

I have also considered snapping a chalk line after measuring 47 and 3/4" from the sill plate on each end of the house, but that chalk line would be extremely long and would vary too much in that span.

I am trying to maintain:

An even 1/8" gap between each sheet
The same height of sheet as the next one to prevent unequal gaps on the 2nd row of sheeting, and
Keep the sheathing flush with the bottom of the sill plate so it ties into the sill plate nicely with the edge nailing pattern.  This has amounted to nothing but frustration and curse words.

The code allows 3 basic configuration: 1) Configuration 1: long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 panel LENGTH, 2) Category 2: long edge of panels installed horizontally and each succeeding course staggered 1/2 width of SHORT edge, and 3) Category 6 (I know, stupid numbering system, but Categories 3, 4 and 5 are just for loading from opposite direction.) Long edge of panels installed horizontally across supports and each succeeding course NOT staggered.

Most installations are Category 1, but the critical criteria in all categories is that the panels MUST fully meet (lap) the sill plate, both top plates and 1/2 of stud at ends. (Please stagger nailing into studs where the panels end, to avoid splitting of stud.)

This doesn't tell you HOW to do it, but I hope it tells you WHAT you need to do...and I think your question was asking HOW...

By the way, if you are using staples, the crown must be PARALLEL to the long dimension of the supports.


How to cut concrete block with a circular saw I have some concrete blocks that are 4 inches by 6 inches.  I need to cut them in half at a 45 degree angle.  Can I do this with a circular saw and a masonry blade ?  I would also make a jig to cut the 45s.  I only need to make 4 cuts.

I checked with a few rental places but it would be expensive to rent a big saw. I live far enough from any rental places that it would be a full day rental. Also it would seem difficult to make a decent 45 degree cut with a large demo saw.

My thought is to make a jig to hold the blocks and make the cut and use a circular saw with some type of masonry diamond blade. A 7" blade looks to be in the 20-30 dollar range.

Would this work ?

If you can find the same size arbor (hole in the blade) it works great. A thin blade uses less horsepower but won’t last as long. Make sure to blow the dust out of the motor after done as it will shorten the motor life if left in the motor.
I do this with a table saw and skill saw for brick and cinder blocks when I want a clean cut. Also wear a dust mask you dont want to breathe the dust.


How far should my wall be from my furnace/water heater? ) we are refinishing the basement and are enclosing the furnace/water heater, leaving a thin 27" door. My water heater sits back beside my furnace and the enclosure is going to be square so I think the WH will be fine. But how far from the front of the furnace should  I put the studs? And how about the one side? Oh yea they sit about a foot and a half off the wall so the back will not be enclosed.
Thanks so much

According to International Residential Code (IRC), you'll need to provide a 30" x 30" level working space for servicing and inspection of both appliances. You'll also have to follow the manufacturers installation instructions, for clearances from combustible materials and any other restrictions.
You'll also have to consider supplying the equipment with adequate combustion air, and supplying the air from an appropriate source.
Working Space

International Residential Code 2012
Chpater 13 General Mechanical System Requirements
Section M1305 Appliance Access
M1305.1 Appliance access for inspection service, repair and replacement.
Appliances shall be accessible for inspection, service, repair and replacement without removing permanent construction, other appliances, or any other piping or ducts not connected to the appliance being inspected, serviced, repaired or replaced. A level working space at least 30 inches deep and 30 inches wide (762 mm by 762 mm) shall be provided in front of the control side to service an appliance. Installation of room heaters shall be permitted with at least an 18-inch (457 mm) working space. A platform shall not be required for room heaters.

Water Heater

International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 28 Water Heaters
Section P2801 General
P2801.2 Installation.
Water heaters shall be installed in accordance with this chapter and Chapters 20 and 24.
P2801.3 Location.
Water heaters and storage tanks shall be installed in accordance with Section M1305 and shall be located and connected to provide access for observation, maintenance, servicing and replacement.
Chapter 20 Boilers and Water Heaters
Section M2005 Water Heaters
M2005.1 General
Water heaters shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and the requirements of this code. Water heaters installed in an attic shall comply with the requirements of Section M1305.1.3. Gas-fired water heaters shall comply with the requirements in Chapter 24. Domestic electric water heaters shall comply with UL 174. Oiled-fired water heaters shall comply with UL 732. Thermal solar water heaters shall comply with Chapter 23 and UL 174. Solid-fuel-fired water heaters shall comply with UL 2523.

Furnace

International Residential Code 2012
Chapter 24 Fuel Gas
Section G2408 (305) Installation
G2408.5 (305.8) Clearances to combustible construction.
Heat-producing equipment and appliances shall be installed to maintain the required clearances to combustible construction as specified in the listing and manufacturer’s instructions. Such clearances shall be reduced only in accordance with Section G2409. Clearances to combustibles shall include such considerations as door swing, drawer pull, overhead projections or shelving and window swing. Devices, such as door stops or limits and closers, shall not be used to provide the required clearances.
G2409.4 (308.4) Central heating boilers and furnaces.
Clearance requirements for central-heating boilers and furnaces shall comply with Sections G2409.4.1 through G2409.4.5. The clearance to these appliances shall not interfere with combustion air; draft hood clearance and relief; and accessibility for servicing.
G2409.4.1 (308.4.1) Appliances clearances.
Central-heating furnaces and low-pressure boilers shall be installed with clearances in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions
G2409.4.5 (308.4.3) Clearance for servicing appliances.
Front clearance shall be sufficient for servicing the burner and the furnace or boiler.


Wiring Bathroom Fan Switch I'm trying to wire a new single pole dimmer (two black wires, one ground) and single pole switch (no wires, just screws) for the fan in my bathroom. What I see coming into the box is three separate two-wire cables (black,white,ground).

Currently in the box, all the whites are tied together, and all the grounds are tied together to one lead. The previous set up was 2 switches: a switch/receptacle combo for the fan light and a single pole switch for the fan. Two of the black wires went into combo switch, and one went into the other switch. The combo switch had a white wire connected to the white wire nut.

Now that I'm taking the receptacle out of the equation, how do I wire my new setup? I assume each of my new switches gets a black wire and a ground wire, but what am I doing with these neutrals?

I'm sure I'm leaving out important info, so ask away. Thanks for your help and patience.

No way from here to know which wire fed the light or fan, but you have a continuous hot feed into the box that fed the receptacle, light and fan. The third wire, maybe it fed the fan or maybe something something else farther down the line, if the latter that needs to be tied in 100 percent to the hot feed. All whites still tied together, blacks to the dimmer from the light and hot. All grounds tied together set with a screw to the metal box. Securing the ground to the box is not needed if the box is plastic.

Before I got too wordy, here is a sketch

Still have to learn to format better

The sketch is a little rough, it should get the idea across I hope


What is the name of this tool? I see these all the time, but don't know the name of this wrench tool. Anyone know?

Metric multi-size bolt head rounder-offer


Strange wires behind a plate in living room (red plastic sensor looking) I was removing all the wall plates from my living room walls prior to painting and found a set of wires I have never seen before. If the wires are useless I would like to patch the hole with plaster to minimize the number of wall plates I have. If they are important then I'll just keep the plate.

Both red plastic pieces are connected to a wire from each of the two 'main' wires. the rest of the wires are not connected to anything. They are housed in a metal box similar to an electrical outlet.

Does anyone know what these are? Are they important?

Those are telephone wires. Looks like the cabling is CAT3, but I can't quite tell from the picture. The "red sensor" things aren't sensors, they are just splicers that are connecting two runs together. Google for "red telephone splicer" and you'll get tons of pictures of similar ones, as well as instructions on how to use them.


Best way to locate a specific neutral? How can I determine which neutral in a sub-panel is for a particular (tripped) breaker?
We have a sub-panel in the basement for circuits that are supplied by an automatic generator. There are eight breakers in that box, and seven neutral wires on the bar, none of them labeled. (I think one slightly larger wire is for a ganged pair of breakers.)

I've tried disconnecting several of the wires, one at a time, but when I try to reset the breaker, it trips again. Could it be shorting to the bar in general, rather than to its associated neutral? I think there may be a hot-to-neutral short somewhere in the circuit, but I need to isolate the correct neutral before further testing.
Something tells me it could involve shutting off all eight breakers in that box, and maybe disconnecting the generator so it doesn't fire up (or at least not supply any juice) when I open the main breaker.

You should disconnect all power to your sub-panel (turn off your main breaker and your generator). Be absolutely sure the power is off to avoid serious injury or worse. I'd suggest using a voltage sensor pen to verify the panel is cold.

You will need a ohm/continuity meter for this test.

Pop the breaker in question out of the panel, leaving the hot wire connected. Turn on the breaker and test continuity between the back of the breaker and the neutral bus. Since the breaker is tripping, you should see continuity/low resistance. If you do not, it's possible the short only exhibits under higher voltage but more likely, you have a bad breaker.

Assuming you do see continuity, remove neutral wires one at as time from the bus and recheck continuity. When you lose continuity, you just removed the neutral you're looking for.


Change GFCI outlet/switch with regular switch I have 2 switches in my bathroom: a fan (power comes into the fan and it's just a simple black/white to the switch) and a switch/outlet GFCI combo where the switch powers the lights but the outlet always has power (power comes in at the box with separate line to the lights)

It seems very backwards to anyone hitting switches that the small switch is the lights and single large switch is the fan, thus I want to swap them.

First, based on the configuration, is it possible to do a simple swap for the switches? I don't care if the fan would be GFCI protected or not using that switch. However, based on this question I have a feeling it's not possible? (Apologies if this isn't possible and you'd consider the question a duplicate, I'm being optimistic this situation is different enough I can rewrite it)

If it is possible can anyone point me at a diagram on how I'd wire this up?
If helpful, here's a picture of how it's wired now (power in, lights, fan)

You should be able to simply swap the switches.

This is your current wiring (grounds have been removed to make it less confusing).

There should be no problem with you swapping the switches like so...


Can I hang a hammock from basement joists? My basement is what I assume is a typical setup, built in the 1970s.  2x8 joists run from the outer cinderblock wall to the center beam with an approximate 11 foot span.  I'm thinking about hanging a hammock between two joists.  A few hammocks I've seen online are rated at 400lbs, so let's use that as the load (as I'd rather the hammock fails than the house).

First, what is the correct way to mount this to the joists?  I assume I can't just screw in a couple of eye bolts.

Second, would it matter if I mounted both ends on one joist vs two different joists?  I realize there would be deflection with the two separate joists, but is it safe?

400 lbs is not so large (consider that 2 or 3 people standing close to each other could easily exceed that), but you must be careful not to mount the hammock in a way that compromises the joists. Since the hammock supports pull at a diagonal and not straight down, the force exerted at each contact point is actually much more than the weight of the occupants.

It would be best to mount the hammock in the direction of the joists, so that one end is near the outer wall and one end is near the main center beam. The bending load on the joist will be far less than if you mount at the midpoint. Plus, the load from the hammock will be mostly in the axial direction, which is not a big deal.

If you must mount the hammock perpendicular to the joists, suspended from their midpoint, it would be best if the hammock attach point were at the location of cross bracing between the joists, and/or blocking if you have that instead. The bracing prevents the joists from twisting or shifting laterally, which otherwise would be a weakness. If you have no bracing between joists or they're not in a convenient spot, I would add some at the suspension points——say, 2 joists in each direction. If you mount the hammock this way, you must ensure that the joist do not twist or get deflected laterally, as that will severely compromise their stability.

As for attaching to a joist, I would not drill a large hole through the joists if you can avoid it, although it would probably be OK. Try to find a metal bracket at a construction supply store that will fit on the 2x8s and provide a support for your hammock chain. E.g. Home Depot carries several Simpson Strong-Tie products that look promising.

(If this is sounding like too much work or too risky, you could always pick up a free-standing hammock stand.)


How do I keep my Christmas tree from falling over? It never fails: I bring home a 9-foot pine, cut the trunk flat, remove the lower branches, and place our Christmas tree in the stand only to have it fall over a little later in the evening.

How can I prevent this "Christmas tradition" from ever happening again?

Get a heavy stand

Growing up, my dad had a traditional stand that looks something like this:

That works for smaller trees as long as you can be sure that nobody (such as a child or pet) will disturb it.  That's not at all a given.  Remember that trees have extensive root systems that keep them grounded during windy periods and so it's important to get a stand that can simulate the parts of the tree that have been cut off.  For that reason, I'm a proponent of a heavier stand such as this one made of cast iron:

There's something to be said for the simplicity of a really heavy, wide stand that will hold your tree firmly in place.  I've been told plastic stands are sturdier than they look when they are weighted with water.  They have the additional advantage of holding a gallon of water or more, which means you won't risk a dried out tree.  In some ways it doesn't matter what the stand looks like since you can always cover it with a tree skirt.  (And my wife insists on it even though I like the way our stand looks.)

Placing the tree in the stand

One thing I've tried is to set the tree up before removing the twine that holds the branches in place.  This is a mistake for two reasons:

The balance of the tree changes when the branches are fully deployed.  A tree that stands straight when wrapped can sometimes end up leaning when unwrapped.
My wife always wants me to rotate the tree so that the best side is facing into the room.  Once the tree is secure, you don't want to mess with the balance by trying to move or rotate it.

For the sake of getting a good balance, I also think it's a mistake to attach the stand before putting the tree upright.  Or rather, you're going to need to readjust it anyway and it probably won't buy you anything—especially if you have a heavy stand.

Attaching the tree to the stand

Here's where my stand fails me.  It attaches to the tree with three screws.  Three is the absolute minimum number of points need to hold a trunk in place and it doesn't seem to be enough.  If I try to adjust one side, the tree starts falling over and I need help holding it up.  (My father's stand had the same problem, but image searches show most of the traditional design have 4 screws plus a ring to hold the truck more securely.)

This year I hit on a solution that's so simple I can't figure out how it didn't occur to me before: I put 2x4 scraps between the screws and the trunk.  This has the advantage of spreading the side pressure to a larger area and also makes adjustments easier since the bolts don't screw into the trunk itself.  For added security, I packing in extra scraps of wood to brace the tree now that I have it secured to the stand.

Looking around, I see that newer designs use two levels of screws or even "hug" the trunk with a pedal operated cable.  I don't have any experience with these designs, but if the stand is heavy enough (see above) they are probably improvements over the three-screw stand that I'm using.

Consider a guyline

Here in California, we are encouraged to secure everything in case of earthquake.  Given the excitement of the season, I like to secure our tree in case of childquake.  It's a bit of a hassle, but in years past, I've been glad to have a bit of safety from tree fall when its balance shifted due to watering and decorations.  It need not be an eyesore either—the line might be secured to a hook in the wall behind the tree.

I've used monofilament fishing line to attach our tree to a hook in the ceiling.  Since the fishing line is designed to be invisible (or close to it) in water, most people won't see it.  A bonus advantage is that you know what your line is rated and can estimate how many strands will suffice.  If you do fish in the summer, its a good idea to replace your line between fishing seasons to avoid tangles, so this is a perfect opportunity.


What happens when pulling 160A out of a busbar rated at 100A? I bought a BusBar from Amazon to parallel connect 5 batteries in my cabin. It is rated at a 100A. I will normally never pull anything close to that out of the batteries, but I have a 1800W non-adjustable vacuum, and I am pondering if I should run it off the batteries using an inverter. Due to normal inefficencies of an inverter, that would probably pull 2000W, equivalent to about 160A at 12V, quite a bit more than the rated max.

I am wondering if this will make the metal on the bus bar so hot it will become a fire hazard? Usually I am done vacuuming in 15 minutes. Usually, any rating is done with a bit of overhead, so maybe 100A means it gets to 20 degrees C, while at 200A it becomes quite hot (like 50 degrees C)?

This is how the bus bar looks:

What happens is you exceed the rating of your buss bar by 60%. Doing that is not a good idea and you could melt/deform the base of the buss bar. That buss bar would heat up very fast with that much load on it in a very short time. After 15 minutes it would be so hot it would probably start melting the insulation of other wires attached to it. Plus, I'd be cautious of electrical items purchased on Amazon as they tend to be counterfeit items and could lack UL approval. Bottom line, get a higher rated buss bar.


Electric panel update, should I do wiring too? Ok the home was built in 1966 and the panel seems to be that old.  It's a 400 amp service coming in and no real issues other then the main a.c dimming lights here and their. But the panel is rusty (dropped from ceiling).  My electrician came out and I told him I'd like it off the roof and ran underground and just to replace what's their.  He said no problem gave me a rough quote of 3 to 4k.  So everything is good right? I forgot to ask about the wiring.  Just thinking back I see fabric wire amd new romex through the house just depends which room I'm looking at. Plenty of outlets in each room.  Should I replace the wiring?

First, be very hands-on with panel selection and Buy a Huge panel. I'm talking number of spaces.  The point is to make sure you never come back asking: "I need to add a circuit, but my panel is full." That is an expensive problem to fix, and So Very Cheap to prevent at panel-buying time.

Panels come 16, 24, 30, 42 space. There's only a small difference in price per step, so max it out.  It's trivial cost on a $3000+ project.  Don't bother with 60 or 84 space panels, they're pricey.

Anyway, 400A installations are commonly done as two 200A main panels right next to each other, simply because that is vastly cheaper than a single 400A panel.  In that case, buy dual 42's.  (or 30's if you are impoverished).

Avoid double-stuff breakers - that's duplex, twin, tandem, GE's Qline 1/2" breakers, or any scheme to cram 2 breakers into a single breaker space.  They are a crutch to let them install a way-too-small panel. The fundamental problem with double-stuffs is AFCIs and GFCIs are not available in double-stuff, and those are required on near every circuit these days.

When a panel says "16 space/32 circuit, ignore the "circuit" number - that is presuming double-stuffs.

Buy a quality panel.  Homeline and BR aren't junk, but they aren't great either. Those same companies make much better panels called QO and CH. Some of us here have a bit of a love affair with Siemens (former Murray) and GE is superb, of course. They're all nearby in price range; the cheapies don't save much money at all.

Better panels tend to have spaces in multiples of 3, since they make variants of that panel which are 3-phase for industry.  Ford factories don't have a lot of BR panels.  (CH, yes.)

There's also a case to be made for using the family of panel you already own; so for instance if your old panel is full of perfectly good QO breakers, why not go with QO and reuse the breakers?

That quote price: Evaluating quotes is not really what we do here.  A huge portion of the total bill will be in the undergrounding the cable. That is serious work. So I'm not offended by the bill, I just can't tell you whether the next guy would charge $500 less.  I expect everyone will do the work to Code.  I also think what I say above about panel types says a lot about the electrician. The incremental cost difference from worst-case to best-case (from dual BR 16-space to dual Siemens 42-space) is only a couple hundred bucks, nothing on total project cost.

The branch circuits: I would not worry about those for now. There are now technological solutions for most deficiencies in the branch circuits, that can be handled right at the breaker panel.  Old wiring, aluminum wiring, boom AFCI. No grounds, boom GFCI. Sleep well that night.  Follow up at your leisure to make it perfect.

The only things I'd really be thinking about, branch-circuit-wise, is getting enough dedicated circuits into your kitchen so your wife never has to worry about tripping a breaker. Code now requires two 20A circuits just for countertop receptacles, and it's a really good idea to have your fridge not on GFCI, so a dedicated 1-socket circuit for the fridge is also called for.


What are the steps for pouring more cement around metal fence posts that are leaning? When the wooden fence was built, they used metal posts but only filled the 2' hole with one bag of concrete.  The posts are leaning at about a 25 degree angle. I want to dig out the hole again, then add another bag of concrete to each post.

My question is, will this work? or do I need to drill holes in the existing concrete and put in a few pieces for rebar to "marry" the new concrete to the old?

I live in a "high wind area" and you don't need to go with deeper holes.

I think your 30" depth is adequate and the size of the hole is more than adequate for a 6' fence. The problem is that you need to pour a concrete "collar" at the top of the hole.

I guess you could fill the post hole up with concrete, but you have rather large holes and that could be expensive. I'd dig out the dirt backfill down to the concrete at the bottom of the hole. (I'm assuming the metal fence post is partially encased in the concrete at the bottom of the post hole.) Then, I'd fill the hole up with crushed rock to the point that about 1 bag of concrete would fill the balance of the hole...creating a collar at the top of the post hole.


How to repaint cement boards Some of the lower boards of my 10-year old Hardie siding have become brownish. I am planning to repaint. What is the best approach?
Prime it again and then paint. Or just paint?
I suspect rain water splashing from ground. Even from grassy areas.
When I scrub it it becomes bright yellow. I wonder why. Even brighter than a fresh board.
I ended up  priming it first. It looks fine now.
Realized painter's blue strip works 90% on Hardie as the texture is rough and some paint does get through. But still better than not putting the strip.

I ended up priming it first and then repainting. That was also suggested by an employee of the paint department of a major home improvement store.
Here are a set of suggested steps.
1- Clean from the very top near shingles so that debris does not get into fresh paint.
2- Pressure wash from a distant using a wide spray. Pay attention to the underside of overlaps. Wait for it to dry.
3- Make sure you have time to do a segment before it rains. Plan to finish an hour before sunset to be able to see missed spots.
4- Use painters blue tape to protect areas not to be painted. Press firmly to prevent paint from going underneath the tape. Cover the floor. Use a 4 or 6 inch roller with 3/4" nap for flat part of surfaces. Need small brushes for corners, edges, and under overlaps.
5- Prime.
6- Paint.
I ended up wiping the brown stain on the board with a rag. A bright shiny yellow surface shows underneath those browned spots. Brighter than a fresh board. Same thing shows around the home. Mostly in spots that does not get much direct sun.
The reason for brown spots and bright yellow surface was not clear.


Time to Replace Central AC? Have a 2004, Rheem, Model #: RAMC-048JBZ; R-22 refrigerant.
We live in Central Texas, very hot 5 months a year, we use the AC probably 7/8 months a year.
Have had annual maintenance performed since we bought the place in 2016.
Just had it serviced and technician advised us to consider replacing the whole unit because (after cleaning coils, checking refrigerant and capacitor):
- Compressor is overtaxed. At 65 deg. inside and 71 deg. outside, compressor is already pulling 12 amps. R.L.A. is 19.2. So this doesn't bode well for our upcoming 100 degree days.
-Disconnect fuse and housing mounted on outside was partially melted. This may explain, last year, a blade on the condenser fan partially broke and continued to spin inside the system until I heard it and shut it off. I then installed a new condenser fan last summer.
-Coils are clean; refrigerant remained charged over past year; capacitor is, apparently, good.

Is it time to replace this entire 16 year old unit? Or should I try to replace compressor myself? Compressor retails around $1300. Will be getting another opinion/estimate from another company.

Thanks yall.

UPDATED PHOTOS OF DISCONNECT BOX AND FUSE

Is it time based on the power consumption? I will try to be polite but Hell No. when your system is running at full load and hot the power may get close to RLA , RLA is like FLA for motors. If they are drawing less they are not fully loaded.
Having a worn out compressor could cause a lower power consumption but then electrical parts would not be overheating. If your system is leak free it sounds like it is keep it clean and you may get another few seasons out of it. R22 is obsolete and cost an arm and a leg at the time your system starts under preforming, then a compressor replacement could be an option but this is NOT a diy job, the Freon would need to be removed in a recovery system the old compressor cut out and replaced with a new filter dryer then recharged with the old r22 , just note if there is a leak it will be cheaper to replace the system as R22 is going 100 per lb and up, but it is still available but expensive. Your system takes 10 lbs and even if you need to change the compressor the Freon is still good. But you may need a few lbs to top the system normally less than 50% for a functioning system in my experience.
If you see your power bill jump, compressor starting to run all the time and may not be cooling as well with the same temps as last year this is when the system needs more than a annual check up.


In the UK, where do I buy a “pocket door” kit from? “pocket doors” are common the USA, however they are hardly never seen in the UK, so how do I buy one in the UK?


Can this outlet be used with an adapter for generator power? Greetings to anyone who can help: can this (halloween-type face outlet) be used to plug my generator into the house for backfeed power? I'm guessing I'll need an adapter, if such a thing exists? I'm trying to avoid buying a 100' cord...this one is perfectly placed on the back patio wall under cover. Thanks for any help]1

There are two "five-alarm fire you're gonna kill somebody what are you thinking" issues  here, and one footnote.

Five-alarm: Generator Interlock

There must. Must. Must be an interlock switch which makes it mechanically impossible for your mains supply to be on at the same time as the backfeed breaker.

You may know to shut off the main (grid feed) breaker before turning on the generator.  More is required.  The generator must backfeed into a breaker, and that breaker must be physically interlocked with the main breaker so they cannot be on at once.  Depending on your panel, kits to do this are as low as $30.

If you are very cheap, that may be an absurd amount to pay merely to protect some random lineman who has worked 24 hours straight in the wet, cold, windy sleet to get your power back on. You might say "well, he should take the time and trouble to rig ground-outs on all the lines he's working on, and unrig them when the work is complete", even though that will make his very, very long day even longer.  But I think the better plan is to do the safe thing, obey the law, and respect that worker.

If a generator interlock is impracticable, you can install a subpanel and move the loads you want on generator into the subpanel.   You only need a "main-lug" or "no-lug" subpanel.  Siemens and Square D "QO type" both have particularly cheap interlocks that use two plain breakers, for $20ish + the breakers.

Five-alarm: A cord with prongs on both ends

Don't do a thing like that.  Never.  That is an accident looking for a place to happen; somebody will need an extension cord, mistake it for one, plug it in, unfurl, and WHAMMO.

Anyway, there's no need to do this.  There's a thing called an inlet that is specifically for this.  It looks like an outlet, but has prongs instead of a socket.  You plug a "normal" extension cord into it (by "normal" I mean it has a plug on one end and a socket on the other, and the two are compatible, i.e. The cord can plug into itself.

If that's too expensive for you, then replace that receptacle with a flat plate with a knockout in it. Get a flexible cord about 2' long, splice it to the wires in the box, have a strain relief where it leaves the box through the knockout hole, and put an appropriate plug on the other end so it could plug into the generator (except it's too short, make it so it can't touch the ground).  Then use a short extension cord as discussed above.

Footnote: ONE neutral-ground bond

A house's electrical system should have exactly one place where neutral and ground are bonded together.  That will be inside your main panel.

Most generators have a neutral-ground bond of their own, and if you wired them hot-hot-neutral-ground, that means you have two neutral-ground bonds.

That means if your wiring out to your generator is 3-wire hot hot neutral, I'm not going to lose any sleep over it, because even though it's not Code, it kinda fixes a problem.

If your airplane has a fuel leak and a wing about to fall off, don't worry about the faulty navigation light.


Swap out 20amp breaker with a 15amp for kitchen circuit I currently have 14 gauge wire going into a 20 amp breaker that is used for the kitchen. I want to just swap out the 20 amp breaker for a 15 amp instead of replacing the wiring. Can I do that? I read somewhere that the kitchen can't have a 15 amp breaker. Need advice. Thanks.

Not a code expert or have any quote here...but I think code might require 20 amp circuits in kitchens, since it's expected to have a lot of extra power draw there.

However, what you have now is a fire safety issue.  Far better off with the 15 amp breaker than having wires too small on a 20 amp breaker.

The ideal solution would, of course, be to replace all the wires with 12 gauge.


Should the meter base be installed before chink siding in new construction? I'm planning to do my own electrical for a new house that will have pine chink siding. Should I:

A. Install the meter base on the OSB sheathing, and flash the Tyvek around it?

B. Install the meter base on the sheathing over the Tyvek?

C. Wait until the pine chink siding is fully installed and put the meter base over that? (there will be gaps behind the meter though, do to the elevation changes in chink siding).

D. Install some kind of board over the OSB, screwed through the sheathing to the studs and then attach the meter to that? If so, how should it be flashed?

Should the meter base be installed before chink siding in new construction?

Yes.

B. Install the meter base on the sheathing over the Tyvek?


Can a class A fire be extinguished with a class BC fire extinguisher? I recently purchased a fire extinguisher for the kitchen/general emergency purposes. It's a dry chemical, B & C fire extinguisher. Now, I know that there also dry extinguishers that cover all of class A, B and C fires.

Every resource I've looked up warns not to use the wrong kind of extinguisher on the wrong type of fire, but it aside from explaining obvious things like "water makes grease fires worse" it doesn't go into detail on class A fires.

Is it ever acceptable to use a class B & C extinguisher on a class A fire? And if not, what's the difference? Is it effective at all? Or will it make things worse?

[Nations vary, so these are US fire extinguisher type codes - A = wood and paper, B = grease and oil, C = Electrical]

It's always acceptable, it's just not the best choice - but if it's the only one you have and you can safely apply it, worth a shot - then if still safe, then go find a bucket and throw water at it (if its not got grease or electrical issues). Better yet, if you know the difference and can explain the difference to others in the house, pick up a nice type A (or AC these days - weird but available) water extinguisher and set it beside the BC extinguisher if the location is non-freezing - or pick up a bigger ABC powder unit for freezing locations or users that may just grab whatever there is without paying attention to the type of fire.

Generally "BC only" extinguishers are too small to do much good for an A fire - one difference in ABC dry powder types is that they are bigger, and have an A rating that's about a tenth of their BC rating. [Edit: they evidently do use a different dry chemical type, as well] Even a CO2 BC will knock back an A fire, but it will come right back when the CO2 runs out and oxygen returns to reignite the embers - still, it will have been knocked back.

ABC chemical and BC chemical

Looking at my current ABC dry chemical unit, it's rated 3 A, 40 BC (the number is larger for some arcane "size of fire that can be extinguished" system) so that one is not even a tenth of the BC rating. Thus, a small "kitchen" extinguisher that's 5 or 10 BC won't even rate a 1 A with that chemistry.

Remember in no case should you stick around to fight the fire if doing so is not clearly still safe - fire extinguishers are good for putting out small fires before they become big ones - big ones you leave and let the fire department put it out, remembering that being alive is worth more than all the stuff that's burning.


How to attach two pieces of carpets in a reliable way? Since carpets here are sold in custom length, but only in fixed 4m width, one must do a bit of cut & attach here and there to cover the whole floor.

When it comes to attaching two pieces, what's the best way?

I tried common ducktape, but it did not really stick, and I likely need a durable solution so that the pieces do not move when we walk over them each day.

The trade name for it is... wait for it... carpet tape.

This is a roll of 4" Carpet Seam Tape courtesy of wholesaletape.com and while although:

  This pressure sensitive tape applies quick and easy without the need of a "step on" hot iron. Made of a 42lb natural kraft paper with a fiberglass and cotton reinforced scrim it can join most carpet and wood surfaces.

I'd have to assume that most of the old carpets I've pulled out were hot ironed because it was nearly impossible to tear this stuff (it looked exactly like this), but maybe this works just as well.


How best can I discover what is up with my electrical bill? This might be subjective, I don't know. However, it's a serious problem for me. My electrical bill is outrageous. It's three times as large as my next-door neighbor, and four or five times the size of my neighbor's across the street. It's worse in the summer (I live in central TX), but I've had the air conditioner inspected, and while the house is right at the maximum capacity for our unit, the unit should still be able to take care of the load. That also doesn't explain why our winter bills are larger than the comparables.

What I would like to do is check the amount of current drawn by each running appliance and calculate where all my money is going. I just don't know how to go about doing this.

For devices that plug into an electrical outlet, you can use Kill-a-Watt or equivalent to monitor how much electricity they're using.

If that doesn't give you a clear culprit, one low-tech method is to look at the electric meter as you turn off circuits at the service panel one at a time until you see a big change in speed at which the wheel is spinning (for older meters) or the digits are changing (newer meters).  If you can narrow down what's using a lot of electricity, you can look at devices one at a time on that circuit to see if one is using more than its fair share.


Can I use alcohol for cleaning tables? For some reason, an unpleasant scent wafted into my room on Sunday, and coincidentally, it was a rainy day that day. As a result, the scent is now stuck to my table, and anything that I put on the wooden table 'carries'/gains the same unpleasant scent.

I've tried using water and rubbed it on the wooden table to no avail.

Can I use alcohol (From alcohol hand rub) for getting rid of this smell on the table? Is it safe to do this, and should I just let the alcohol dry or should I wipe it with water immediately and dry it with paper towels?

I presume you mean rubbing alcohol AKA Isopropyl Alcohol should be fine.

Also consider Hydrogen Peroxide - H2O2 the extra oxygen molecule wants to break off to stabilise and leave H2O (water) behind. That stray oxygen will attack organic matter, the stuff likely causing the smell by oxidizing it. When applied it will fiz and bubble, this is normal. It should remove any discolouration or stain caused by the mould too if present. Delicate wood could be bleached a bit though so I'd test under the table 1st.


need help with a pdu unit installation so i recently been gift with a pdu from APC is an AP7864 this thing says that works with 120v/208v.3~ now the connector is a L21-220 wich has 5wire 4 poles, this thing is rated for 3 phase and a neutral and ground, i only have and standart 2 phase 1 neutral installation at home, my question is this possible to turn on this thing somehow?

Just to clear up one thing: most houses actually run as Split-phase which is single-phase, and a center-tap neutral. Two-phase power is a separate thing and basically obsolete.

Unfortunately, you can't connect a 3-phase device to single-phase power directly. I am not sure precisely what would happen, but I strongly suspect it would release the magic blue smoke (hint: this is bad).

You can get phase converters, these cost from a couple thousand to multiple thousands of dollars.

You'd be better off buying a single-phase PDU. Easier install, cheaper, and don't have a huge phase converter taking up a bunch of space.


How to handle existing electrical when adding a partition wall where two existing wall switches exist? I'm adding a wall to turn a loft into a bedroom.  The new framing will be right where an existing junction box is.
Coming into the box from the top right are two 14/3 romex cables for a 3-way hallway ceiling light to the right in the image.  I want to move the switch a few inches to the right so it's outside of the new bedroom.
Can I drill a hole in the stud right above the current j box, add a  new work box  old work box on the other side of the stud, and simply feed the existing cable through the new hole into the new box?  My concern is that there would not be any staples since I do not have full access to the right side of this stud.

Let's answer the second question first (quoting from your comment)

My only concern with that approach is my inability to staple the cable within 12" of the box - which I believe is required by NEC code 314.17(C).

Old work boxes have push-in clamps which secure the wire to the box. It's equivalent to a NM clamp on a metal box. Compare them to new work boxes sometime. Some feature that same clamp, but many merely have a break-out tab. That's where you need a staple, but since you have to attach it to a stud, your wall has to be open in some way in the first place.

Can I drill a hole in the stud right above the current j box, add an old work box on the other side of the stud, and simply feed the existing cable through the new hole into the new box?

Not really. You're going to lose 3-4" off your wire doing that, meaning they won't reach the location of your new box. The only solutions here are

Gain access from above. If the wires are running just right, you can drill a hole in the top plate, pull the existing wires back, and drop them into your new box. This is unlikely but still possible.
You'll need a second old work box above the new one somewhere. Drop the existing wires in and add new wires from this box to the switch box. Nut nut the wires off and then blank plate it. Not ideal, but you avoid re-running the wires. Doing this towards the top of the wall will be less obvious.


Suggested materials for monitor stand? I have a 27" iMac and a second 30" display, and since I'm fairly tall I need them raised off the desk by about 20cm / 8".

What is a good building material/design to build such a stand? I'm looking for a clean/simple look - probably timber painted black.

I'm fairly capable (my dad is a carpenter and I've worked as his off-sider from time to time) but not very experienced and want to keep the budget low.

It needs to be around 1200mm by 350mm and strong enough to hold 30kg/65lb securely.

You could build a simple box out of medium-density fiberboard (MDF).

If you really want to get fancy, you could build drawers into the front.

You could buy a piece of melamine shelf, a 4x4, and some L-brackets. And build a shelf like this.


How to remove shower knob? I can't figure out how to remove this shower knob. I have done knob removal before, but this one is quite perplexing. It seems to have a metal cap that I would think would be taken off to reveal a screw. However, I can't get the metal cap off. I have tried hammering a small screwdriver to get under it, but it doesn't seem to separate at all. There is no screwhole or allen wrench hole in the side or anything like that. Any ideas?

the thin cap in front of the gold knob should thread off counter clockwise...this could be very difficult to remove ...use thin rubber gloves for better grip....elastics on the cap too will help … if that fails you can get a strap wrench at plumbing supplies store.


how does temperature influence spray paint usage? I've got 3 pieces of plywood, all 120x30x1 cm, that I want to spray paint matte black.

Ideally, I will be doing this outside next weekend. The weather should be a high of around 10C, partly cloudy, bit of a breeze.

Will working at around 5C ambient influence my spray painting? Will the dispersal be affected?  the drying time? anything else I'm not thinking of?

10 C or 50 F is not the optimal temp for aerosol spray painting, but should be OK. Most manufacturers recommend 60 F or above, but I wouldn't worry too much. The product will spray fine, the dry time may be a bit longer but it will dry fine. Try to get the painted pieces indoors to a warmer area as soon as they can be handled, and your paint will cure properly.  Good Luck.


Do I need a backer rod? I need to make a water tight joint between the garage wall and the pavement:

I have cleaned out the debris from the gap and blasted it with water to remove all the loose little things.

Now, I have bought a sealant and want to apply it.

The problem that I'm seeing is that the floor of the gap is not even. Sometimes it's like 1.5 inches deep (where there were plants that I pulled out) and sometimes it's 1/2 inch deep:

How do I make it more even? Do I use a backer rod? If so, do I lay a continuous backer rod everywhere or only in the places where the gap is deep and leave the naked soil where it's shallow?

Can I apply the sealant on the soil directly (where it's shallow)?

Thanks kindly for you help.
Jenia

You should stuff backer rod in where the depth exceeds 1/2", to conserve your sealant. That self-leveling sealant will flow/drop to the bottom of the opening rather than bridge the gap. You would get around 12' of fill from a single tube with a bead exactly 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep, much less than that if you don't fill it.


how to insulate attic that contains high-efficiency furnace? We have an older home with a separate high efficiency furnace for the second floor.  It sits on a floored area of the attic.  We have virtually no insulation and I've gotten various recommendations from contractors.  The concern is that the furnace need to be in a heated area.  Right now, without insulation, the attic is somewhat heated. One contractor suggests walling off the furnace area and insulating the rafters with foam to make a warmer area for the furnace.  But I'm concerned about blocking air circulation if we do this.  Is there a good solution?

How big is the attic?  One solution is to take 2, 3 or 4" insulation board (R13 to R25) and affix it to the rafters.  This would basically make your attic conditioned space (and thus the air between the foamboard and your ceiling will also add R-value) while also protecting your ventilation pathways.  A board with a radiant barrier on each side would be a plus and be sure to seal between the boards.  If you Google "Superattic", you'll find a better explanation.  NOTE:  On a DIY basis, it's not very expensive.  But if you hire someone and your attic is big, the cost can add up.