HELP: 4-stroke engine oil mixed with gas in 2 stroke engine I accidentally poured Briggs and Stratton SAE 30, 4 stroke engine oil into my 2-stroke snow-blower (note: in the right gas-oil proportion of 40-1). It starts and runs well; however, it seems to be giving out white smoke.

Questions:

Will it cause any permanent damage? If so, where is the damage (engine, spark-plug, gas-tank, carburetor)?
Should I siphon the gas-oil mix right away, OR should I run the engine dry by running it continuously OR should I use my snow-blower as usual until the gas tank empties? I.e. what is the best corrective action?

Unfortunately the most likely failure point for bad oil is the piston rings.  This is a "get a new snowblower" tier problem.

Here's what I would do.  Figure out how much fuel you mis-mixed (say 1 gallon).  Get a jerry can at least triple that size.

Now, go make some new, additional premix fuel of twice that amount (e.g. 2 gallons) and mix the gas and oil correctly.  So you could just use that directly and be good 2 go.

Now, drain the fuel out of the snow blower, and add it to this jerry can.  Mix thoroughly.

Now, you have a can of 2-cycle gas that is 2/3 the correct oil and 1/3 not the right oil.  The "wrong" oil still has a fair amount of lubricity, and the 2/3 will cover other needs.  Go ahead and burn that, white smoke and all.

This won't damage your engine, and is also the simplest way to dispose of this mis-mixed fuel.  You certainly shouldn't dump it on the ground, and mustn't dump it down a drain!


What is this bathroom basin tap connection and can I replace it myself? A few months back I had a problem with the cold tap in my upstairs bathroom — no water would come out after turning it on. I also noticed that the flexible tap hose underneath the basin was damp and sometimes dripping a little bit. So I got a plumber out who fixed the lack of water problem by replacing the tap thread. I rather assumed that that was also the cause of the flexible tap hose dampness, but I was wrong. Then I noticed that there was a tiny gap where the tap wasn't 100% over the hole, so I loosened the back nut and repositioned it to close off the hole.

Unfortunately that didn't solve the hose dampness/dripping problem. So now I'm thinking that the problem is perhaps due to the flexible hose being past its best. So I'd like to change the hose.

As a DIY/plumbing newbie, I don't recognize the connection between the hose and the plastic piping. At first I thought it was a standard braided hose, but then when I unscrewed the nut, the thread of the hose is connected to what looks a bit like a compression olive. Is anyone familiar with the connection? And would a reasonably handy but inexperienced DIYer be wise to fix it himself, or is this a job for a pro?

EDIT: To assist with Duncan's helpful answer, I'm adding two images:

First find out were leak is coming from. I like to use toilet paper it shows very little trace of water. Water could be splashing through hole you pointed out. Top hose connection could need new washer. You can steal one from hose you have that doesn't fit.


Ground new wiring going into old two-wire outlet? I'm wiring in a light switch and light into a closet on the other side of the wall of this outlet. I've run romex from the lightswitch hole through the wall and into the back of this metal box (secured with a clamp). The metal box receives power from some flexible metal conduit with a black and a white wire in it. I've attached the white and black wires from the romex to the open screws on the outlet. Now I'm wondering what the proper way to wire the ground is.

In the picture, you can see that the prior wiring had a small wire connecting the ground screw on the outlet to the neutral screw coming out of the wall. Perhaps the previous electrician used this to retrofit the old two prong outlet to a three prong one. The box doesn't have an obvious ground spot. Besides my new romex, there are no other wires.

The house was built in 1923 in Minnesota and has had various renovations over the years. The prior owner owned the house since 1947 and almost always had professionals do the work. The wall is plaster/lathe.

Edit:

I added some more photos of the old wiring. I found a spot in the box where it seems like I can thread a bolt, I'll try grounding it there.

There is a good chance that the BX (flexible conduit) is being used as the ground back to the source or junction box. Which is fine. Just use the three wires that are shown and go to the switch. If you are going from the switch to a light, then you really do not need the ground anyway. I don't understand the loop from neutral to ground. I'd remove that and connect the ground wire. Obviously there is no GFCI in place.


How to remove dry erase marker from a refrigerator? Trying to remove dry-erase marker from a fridge. I've tried and failed with ammonia, wd40, olive oil, comet, vinegar, old hydrogen peroxide (could be broken down/too old), dish soap and water.

Isopropyl alcohol might work. I've had good luck with it removing permanent marker.


Can an AAV be in a crawl space if the P trap is also in the crawl space? I have a situation where the P trap to the washing machine is in the crawl space instead of in the wall. There is no vent.
I thought about adding an Air Admittance Vent in the wall (see diagram--dotted lines indicate places I'm thinking of adding an AAV) but I realized that would be before the P trap, so it may not do much there.

To put the AAV after the P trap, it would have to be down in the crawl space, several feet below where the washing machine drain starts. Would this cause problems?

It is acting as a vent, it should be above the the sanitary tee.
In  a washing machine drain set up the  Drain goes  to a Ptrap and then into the side inlet of the  san tee, Vent goes out  from top of tee to vent or an AAV.


Ceiling Fan w/remote, capped off red - but now dawn to dusk sensor on porch only stays on I installed a new ceiling fan in our living room that came with a remote. Per the fan instructions all of the wires were connected properly but I had a left over red wire from the old fan. I capped it off properly.  On the wall plate the old fan had a separate switch to turn the light on/off and then a rotary dial switch to control the fan on/off and speed.  I ended up not using the rotary dial switch and have everything connected to other switch and leave it on so the remote will work.  All good with one exception...

After all this my porch lights, which are tied to a dawn/dusk sensor, quit working (the sensor). The lights will come on when the switch is flipped on but no sensor operation.  I climbed up and opened up the photocell and low and behold there is a common red wire in there; then I went to the breaker box and discovered my living room ceiling fan and the front porch lights are on the same breaker.  Since I capped off the red wire from the box up where the new ceiling fan is mounted I'm assuming that is causing my problem with the porch sensor?  Where do I connect the red wire I capped off at the ceiling fan, thank you.

Before you do anything else try resetting the wall switch for the porch light. When you turned off power to the fan (and the porch light) it probably affected the sensor setting. Check your instructions for resetting the sensor from your installation pamphlet or on-line.
The red wire in the fan is probably only part of the switch loop you're not using any longer.


How can I keep animals out of my chimney? I own a three story house with two chimneys. The chimney in the center of the house has two flue liners, one of which is used by our hot water heater and the other was for a fireplace that is sealed in by drywall, thus no longer in use.

Last winter a bat got into the center chimney and stayed for a while. Last month I heard a short blood curdling scream in the night, which I assume was a small animal being killed and eaten in the chimney, possibly by an owl. Although, I tried to let my wife think that the sound was coming from outside the house, but the chimney goes right past our bedroom.

Long story short, I need to put something on the chimney to keep birds and other animals out. I can get to the chimney by leaning a ladder on the back roof of the house over the addition. I was thinking about putting a stainless steel chimney cap on and sealing it with roof sealant. Is there any reason why this would not work? Is there something else that I should do?

Sounds like you need a chimney cap

These come in a variety of sizes and shapes.  They keep out most rain and snow and, most importantly, animals.

You should attach any cap with stainless screws and lead anchors. Sealant is not a big issue, since there is no need for air or water tight joints. While sealant might hold in most conditions, strong winds could rip the cap off if it is not mechanically attached.


What tools will help when removing a glued down floor? We are having a very hard time getting a glued down floor up. We have tried using large scrapers, a crowbar, and a hammer, none have been effective.

Are there any other recommended tools that we should try? We have an air compressor so pneumatic tool recommendations would also be welcomed.

If it is vinyl sheet flooring, I pulled up as much as possible to get to the layer the glue is bonded to and used paint remover. It soaked through the layers, softened the glue where I could use a 4" drywall taping knife to remove it to the subfloor.


My breaker keeps tripping Help ,My motorized garage door opener is tripping my breaker when I use it , can I install a higher amp breaker ?

First thing to do is check out the door.  Unplug the motor and pull the disconnect cord to separate the door from the drive mech.  Now manually try opening and closing the door.  If it doesn't move smoothly (or worse, you just now notice a broken spring or cable), then fix the mechanicals.
Only after that should you start suspecting a bad breaker, and as EdBeal commented, never increase the rating.


Can I change an outside light to an outside electric plug socket? I have an outside light and a light switch inside the house. I have changed the outside light to a solar powered one and think it may be a good idea to change the existing light which runs off the mains into an outside electric socket. Is this possible, how to do it, and how difficult is it to do? Please advise!

It's not hard to change an outside light fixture to a receptacle as long as you realize it's limitations. First your receptacle will be on a switch leg not a permanent power conductor unless you bypass the switch. You can bypass the switch but if there are any other lights on the switch that you wish to control you will need to get a source conductor to the receptacle.

To bypass a switch you simply have to remove the two conductors from the switch and tie them together with a wire nut. You can then blank off the switch or just leave it in place, but the splice must be left accessible.

Also 2017 NEC pretty much requires all outdoor receptacles to be GFCI protected. The easiest way to do this is to install a GFCI receptacle and add a wet location cover.

Good luck.


How best to insulate these ducts? When my HVAC system is heating the house, the basement gets super warm and everything in the picture gets warm/hot to touch.
I feel like the system is wasting a chunk of energy. Am I right? Should these pieces be insulated? Or is this part of the design?

FWIW, this is right by the system:

If I haven't missed my guess, this is a temperature sensor. Seems weird to have it so close to a system dumping heat into the room... Maybe not?
Should I insulate or leave it alone?

The "round sensor in the ceiling" is part of a fire alarm and/or ignition/fuel cutoff circuit for the furnace and is EXACTLY where it's supposed to be.
It's a "heat detector" (smoke insensitive, not prone to false triggering) and when things get too hot, it may (depending on what it's connected to) set off an alarm, cut off the fuel supply, or otherwise take action appropriate to having a furnace that is in thermal runaway (or on fire.)
Do NOT insulate that!
If you want to insulate the rectangular ducts, knock yourself out. If you are getting  lot of heat off the round exhaust flue, you might want to contemplate a more efficient furnace; if you want that insulated, you may need to upgrade to (rather expensive) double or triple-wall insulated flue pipe to do the job properly/safely, and then you'll just be conducting even more heat you paid for outside than you are now.


why are my LED lights not turning on? My led lights have worked fine for awhile, but today they wouldn't turn on! When I plug them in they flicker once and shut back off. I tried a different outlet and it did the same thing.

Sounds like the driver has failed. If a quality product, there might be a warranty. If a cheap junky product, you probably can't even find the company, at least operating under the name you bought them from. That's part of the business plan that makes such things cheap, in every sense of that word.
In either case, you'll need new lights or at least new compatible drivers for the lights if you need working lights.


Is there a proper way to vent a garage into an attic? So, I'm looking to install a set of vents in my garage door for the summer months. I insulated it last winter without realizing how hit it would get with two hot cars in it! Not to mention it really keeps the heat!

The problem is, the garage has a high (~~12 ft) ceiling. The attic is another 2-5 ft of ceiling on top of that. Due to HOA rules, I can't install a gable vent low enough to provide a hot air escape from the garage. Additionally, I can only add the vents to the lowest section of the garage door. Since heat rises I get the feeling I'd only be cooling about 3ft above the floor without some form of hot air escape.

I've considered adding ceiling registers to the garage and ducting them directly to a rear gable vent fan, but if possible I'd like to kill two birds with one stone. I'd like to add the rear gable vent fan, and add vents between the garage an attic to supply cooler air. In this way, I'd pull air from the attic, which would pull air from the garage, which would pull air from the garage door vents.

So, all that being said, is there a proper way to add a vent between the attic and the garage? The attic already has soffit vents, so I'm not sure if I would have to close (some) of those off to keep the airflow rate the same.

My understanding of building code relevant to the US is that an attached garage area must provide a fire barrier (not firewall) from any living space. A quick search shows how effective this regulation is at preventing relatively serious garage fires from engulfing a home. Piercing that fire block and providing a direct path to the attic is a terrible idea.

Consider applying for a variance with your HOA to allow for a garage vent. Spend a few dollars with an architect or contractor so you can include detailed design plans with your petition. Most HOA charters will require the board to either approve the variance or respond with necessary changes they would be willing to approve. I have never seen an HOA board outright deny a reasonable and detailed variance request.

It may cost a little more up front, but the results will ensure you can resell your home and could even save your life.


Facade entrance damage The entrance to our condo was damaged in the last few moves and I am not sure how to fix it. Check out the pictures

What is this material called? It seems to be some soft of plaster shell with foam inside.
Who do I need to call to fix it? A general contractor? (Unfortunately, I do not have much time to do it myself).
What can be done to reinforce these edges? I was thinking some sort of a metal bracket that runs along the edge. What would such a bracket be called and where do I find it?

Thank you much for the help!

This is EIFS- Exterior Insulating Finish System. A little info on it here.

You won't need a GC to do this, it is a small repair. There are EIFS installers you can call. They will tell you it will not repair easily. It will not touch up, they will need to recreate or overlay the whole "block" so to speak. It may be better to peel off the original and start from scratch, so it does not get bigger than the others. I do not know if this can be custom colored, if need be. In todays market, with enough money behind it, anything can be customized, you may still need to live with a little difference in color.


Dishwasher leaving residue, needing frequent cleaning I'm looking for any ideas about how to get my dishwasher working better. Right now I need to take it apart and clean out a filter each week, but this filter is not easily removed (~8 screws) and did not ever need cleaning in the past. Even after running the dishwasher empty I have observed this filter getting a bit of gunk in it. After cleaning, it works well and gradually gets more clogged up, by the end of the week there's soapy residue left on the dishes.
Some bad choices made leading up to having this issue:

running the dishwasher with juicer parts that were packed full of apple pulp, causing the bottom of the dishwasher to be full of standing water and the first time I observed the permanent filter being clogged

trying different more eco friendly soaps which was the first time we observed dishes not getting clean and soapy residue remaining

taking apart the dishwasher and noticing one of the gaskets did not fit clearly back into place, I think it's right now but liable to be wrong

Some things I've tried:

running the dishwasher empty with vinegar

running the dishwasher empty

The dishwasher is a Frigidaire FPHD2491KF0
Please see the pictures on this post. Appreciate any ideas about things to try!

above: inside of dishwasher and the problem area

above: cleaned the filter, and then ran an empty cycle with vinegar and this grime showed up

above: the filter that's difficult to remove, after a week of usage

above: confusing o ring, it doesn't seem to sit right in there and its not obvious to me how it should fit

above: it seems too big to fit into the groove in there, I regret having taken this apart

above: under the sink, for context

Check the drain hose attachment. The inner diameter is reduced around the nipple and something can be caught there, possibly causing back-wash of drain water.

Image: https://howtofixit.net/dishwasher-not-draining/


Painting Over Wall Blemishes Album First

Background: I have some walls that were once covered in wallpaper and my wife and I removed them when we bought our house. We then casually patched and sanded some of the blemishes left by the wallpaper removal and painted the walls with some Behr paint that was a combined primer and paint.

I have come not be annoyed by what you see in the album, which I believe stems from my lack of prep, mainly knowledge about the best order to approach these things. Per the DIY guidelines I have done some research about what the proper order I should have followed while painting but many sources seem conflicting/personal preference.

Here are my main two questions.

Is there anything I can do to fix the problems seen in the photos?
When I paint my next room, would the following be an acceptable approach?

Seal Walls with this
Skim Coat with Mud and sand
Prime With This
Paint

If there are any resources that you have tried that show the correct way, I would appreciate that too, I can't tell the difference between most people's personal preference online.

In many cases the most successful and least time-consuming approach is to either remove and replace the drywall (and catch up with any issues exposed when the wall is open) or to lay a fresh layer of drywall on top of the wall that had wallpaper on it.

IMHO the skim coat of mud (sand optional) will do the job without any "special sealer" first, but it's a time consuming approach .vs. new drywall.


Hang a mirror with keyhole slot What is the best way to hang a 30" round, 35lb mirror with a keyhole slot? Diameter of keyhole is 3/8 inch.

Wall is drywall. I have located a stud, which is in the right place, but in case I don't, I'd like to hear options for non-stud approaches too.

A high-quality #12 or #14 pan-head screw (or the metric equivalent) of 2" length or more will carry that with no problem when mounted in a stud through 1/2" drywall.

For hollow-wall scenarios, such as drywall, use a substantial anchor rated for more than the weight you wish to hang, that grasps the drywall from the inside, such as a toggler (Pop Toggle pictured):


Preventing push-spring drain stoppers from getting stuck I have dealt with several sink drains that have a spring-loaded stopper like the one shown here.  It is designed to be pushed down to stop the drain, and pushed again to pop up and unstop the drain.  The problem is that when it is not frequently used it will tend to get stuck in the stopped position.  This occurs even when no debris is encumbering the mechanism.

The only way I have found of fixing these when they get stuck that way is to unscrew them from the drain and begin to jimmy or disassemble them until the spring returns the stopper into the unstopped condition.  At that point I toggle it a few times until it does so reliably and without sticking, and then return it to service.  But if it is not frequently used it will invariably get stuck again.

Are there any means of reliably preventing these from getting stuck in the stopped position?

Next time you have to disassemble it, clean it real good with some emery paper and then rub some plumber's grease over the parts and reassemble. Don't use regular silicone grease, get the plumber's silicone grease. It's thicker and lasts much longer. Good luck.


If I want to add an additional receptacle, which wires do I tap from an existing receptacle? I have an existing receptacle that used to have both the top and bottom outlet controlled by a switch.  I made the entire receptacle permanently hot by disconnecting the switch and connecting all the wires that went into the switch.

I would like to add an additional receptacle by tapping into this existing receptacle.  Which wires should I tap to create the new receptacle?  Thanks!

This is the existing receptacle, in a 2.5" deep single gang box, on a 14AWG (15A) circuit:

Unfortunately, the box for that receptacle is already full to the brim with wires -- 6 14AWGs is the maximum for a 2.5" deep single gang box such as the one you have here, and with the double allowance that is made for the receptacle, you already have too many wires in it as-is.  Going to a deeper box won't quite get you enough space to tap here, either -- a 3.5" deep single gang has room for only 9 14AWGs without a device or 7 with one, and you need 8 14AWG wires (2 existing blacks, 2 existing whites, 1 existing red, 1 EGC allowance, 1 new black, and 1 new white) + a double allowance for the receptacle device.

So, you'll have to replace this box with a bigger box if you wish to tap the circuit here -- a 2 gang box is the simplest replacement option, with the other gang blanked out to make room for all those wires.  Once you've done that, you can connect the new cable's black to either the existing blacks or the existing red, and the new cable's white to the existing whites -- you'll have to pull them out of the backstab and make a white pigtail to the outlet neutral, though.  You'll want to put a ground pigtail on the existing receptacle and connect it to the existing grounds, in addition to tying the new cable's ground in, too.

The other option would be to remove the switch entirely from the the box that housed the switch that used to control this outlet (if you haven't done that already, that is), and then you can run the cable for your new outlet to the former switch location -- that box, sans switch, will have enough room to house the 6 14AWGs (existing black, existing red, existing white, EGCs, new black, and new white) provided it is the same depth as this one, and box replacement is an easier option in this case as you can go up to a 2.5" deep single gang if the existing box is too shallow.


Run a Tunnel on existing Comcast cable? Comcast has wired our farm so that we have two taps coming off of the telephone pole. One runs to the barn and one runs to the house. While we need WiFi access in the barn to handle security camera feeds, we don't need the bandwidth afforded by 2 taps. We also don't want to pay for two internet subscriptions.
Electrically, the two taps configuration is the cleanest. When I spoke to the Comcast engineer, he said that there was not electrical continuity between the taps, suggesting that they have active HW on the telephone pole driving each tap. If I tee one tap and put two terminations on it, the signal theory says that there will be reflections off of the tee and each of the taps making the line more noisy. However, I know that you can put two cable modems on one cable, for example (See: https://forums.xfinity.com/t5/Your-Home-Network/Using-two-2-internet-cable-modems-on-a-single-service-line/td-p/3297233). What I want is slightly different:
Can I take the signal from one tap, tee it at the bottom of the telephone pole and connect it to the wire to the barn and wire to the house. (distance from house to pole is 250ft; distance from barn to pole is 250ft; Comcast HW is at top of pole; tee would be at bottom of pole)
Then, in the barn I want to put an access point with a tunnel setup to a corresponding device in the house. Finally, in the house I would put the comcast access point and have the tunnel set up to route any outgoing traffic to the comcast access point.
Please note that I am aware of other solutions to this problem:

I tried power line modems -- they were too finicky/unreliable for the distances involved;
I tried Ubiquity line of sight -- the distances, bricks walls, trees, and weather combine to make this unreliable.

UPDATE:
As I have considered this more, I've been thinking of it like the LAN in my house.  It can have multiple routers, multiple DHCP servers, multiple connections to the internet (see, for example: https://www.mushroomnetworks.com/blog/should-you-migrate-your-2-router-2-isp-network-to-a-multi-wan-router-network/).  The topology I describe would be reasonable/valid assuming I put a bridge at the point where the cable splits to house and barn.
Since Cable seemed to allow multiple devices on a single wire (is this in fact true?  I thought I sited a reference where this was happening), I was hoping people would know of devices that would allow me to do with cable what I could do with my home network.

This one may be a bit tough. If I understand correctly, you really want to use the same coax. from pole to house for both incoming signal to the Comcast access point and a local network to the barn. I can't say for sure that it won't work, but I really, really wouldn't count on it. You might be able to get MoCA working, but I'm not so sure. Keep in mind that you would be throwing your own "local" network on top of what is (past the Comcast box) Comcast's network.
My recommendation would be to run another wire, or possibly fiber, from the house to the pole to the barn. Keep in mind that 500' is way over normal copper Ethernet distance, so this would not simply be ordinary 4-pair CAT 5e or 6. You could go with a line driver of some sort (there are types for twisted pair - even old CAT 3 or worse, as well as for coax.), but this might be a great one for fiber. Fiber has some big advantages:

Speed
Distance
Immune to electrical interference
Non-metallic

The converters needed have gotten relatively inexpensive. Just an example, no experience with this particular brand:

For the fiber cable, unless the coax is in conduit, you will want to look for outdoor-rated cable, possibly armored. Make sure it is the right type (LC, SC, etc.) and I would seriously consider getting pre-terminated cable rather than doing it yourself for a one-time fiber install.


Why am I getting condensation on vapour barrier? I installed some vapour barriers on the windows recently due to it getting a bit cold, but have been noticing that I've been getting a fair bit of condensation on the inside facing part of the plastic. Now the temperature has gone down about thirty degrees since I installed these, so I'm wondering if it's just not up to the task, or I've installed them improperly/poorly, or maybe something else that I've missed? Here's a picture of one installation. as you can see there's condensation on the lower part of the window.

I don't see that there's anything wrong. Condensation happens... on any surface that's colder than the dew point of the adjacent air. If anything, it's showing that it was worth doing. Despite only being a few mils thick and easily heated, it's much colder than the inside air due to heat loss through the windows. Without it, the windows would be sucking heat out of your house instead of just the interstitial space. The only thing you can do to reduce condensation is reduce the humidity in your house and/or turn the heat up.


Does cellulose insulation require open windows for venting? I just added a cellulose insulation into my attic.

Yes, I added the rafter vents but I also have two mini windows that are covered with siding window covers allowing the air flow. I normally closed these 2 windows during the winter time and open during summer. I just closed them with the board of the window size to block at least some cold getting in.

My question is do I still need to close them during winter now when I have the cellulose insulation? It's raining right now and quite of humidity is getting there. And since it is insulating properly, the warm air from the house is not getting there to push the humidity out. Hopefully, the wood won't start to degrade because not warm air escaping the house removing the humid air there.

before:

You ideally want your attic to be the same temperature and humidity as the outdoors. By sealing, you almost certainly are making the space warmer and more humid. In hot climates, this could cause your roof to get to hot and reduce the lifespan. In cold climates, the attic could stay or get above freezing, cause melt, and refreeze at the edge causing water dams.


Rewiring My Security Alarm Power Source A year or so ago when I got my security system installed, they drilled a whole in my wall under an outlet and mounted a permanent plug there.  I would like to reclaim this plug for both convenience and aesthetics.

I was thinking that I could just wire these into the wiring directly, but then I realized that this is a transformer, so that would not like work.  My next thought was to install an outlet on the opposite side of the wall in the garage.  Is there an easier/better/other option?

You could add another outlet to the garage side but it will probably need to be offset from the current box. With the new outlet in the garage it will need to be a GFCI type outlet to meet code.
A old work box would be the easiest to add.


How can I measure water/moisture content within a wall cavity? Related to improper placement of a vapour barrier within wall insulation, are there any tools or methods for measuring water/moisture content within a wall cavity?

I've used a moisture meter to do roughly this. My meter is the pinless kind. Some years ago, we had a contractor who did a less than perfect job on a bathroom remodel. (Ok, they left behind leaks in something like six separate places.) With the meter, I was able to tell where water was a problem, and also know when we had finally gotten all the leaks repaired.

I would not expect the actual meter reading to be highly accurate, since these meters are usually calibrated for wood. But the meter will indeed be able to tell the presence of moisture, and to differentiate between dry and wet. The problem is, these meters can only read to a certain depth, typically a half inch or so in wood. I'll look tomorrow to see, I might be able to test mine under similar conditions to see how deeply it can read.

Edit: I tested my moisture meter. I have a 12+ year old Wagner L609, an inexpensive pin-less meter that works nicely for wood samples. It is not tremendously accurate, but it does show moisture differences well between samples. Newer models might read more deeply than did mine.

The first test that I ran was to test a piece of 1/2 inch thick drywall, then move the flat of my hand up to it, until I saw a difference. By itself, the drywall reads at roughly 5-6%, my hand by itself reads off the top of the scale. When my hand approaches to within roughly 1/2inch, the meter sees a difference, jumping up by about 3-4%. It could also recognize the presence of my hand on the other side of a 3/4 inch thick telephone book.

Of course, this is a poor test for what you are doing. Suppose that moisture collects on the inside of a vapor barrier inside the wall, separated by over an inch from the interior wall surface? Were this to happen, the air space between the two surfaces will be maintained at a high humidity. In turn, this will significantly raise the moisture content of the interior wall surface.

I next did a test where I showed that drywall faced with a somewhat moister environment on one side would then easily register several percent high in moisture content.

This last test convinces me that you can indeed check for elevated moisture content of a wall cavity using a non-invasive and inexpensive moisture meter.


Can I use my bathtub or shower during tiling project I would like to redo my shower tiling.  Demolition and then tiling may take longer than a day for me.  I only have one bathroom so I was wondering what milestones I should reach each day so I can still take a shower or use the bath tub?

I understand that you are just replacing the tile and leaving the bathtub. So, you should have no problem taking a bath in the tub at any time during the tiling. As far as a shower, you can be creative with some polyethylene plastic taped or draped around the three walls and take a shower too throughout the project.


Can I wall-mount a TV when there is an air gap between the drywall and the wooden stud? I'm mounting a 38lb TV (with a ~10lb mounting bracket).

I located a stud, but the drywall floats an inch above it, plus the drywall itself is another 1/2 inch. So a couple 3-inch screws (and not a micron longer or they'll protude into my nice old neighbor's kitchen!) is required.

Pretending the drywall won't hold any weight, that means the 3-inch screws will be half-in and half-out of the wood. With a TV hanging off the end of them.

Recipe for disaster?

+++++++++++++++++++

So, three days hence, here's what I did: instead of using the living room wall I share with my neighbor, I used the living wall room that I share with my own hall closet (which wasn't my original choice due to window/sun glare).

I now have several 6" bolts going through the drywall, plaster & lathe, and studs in the closet, with big-ass washers for a little extra "spread". The Cheetah mount is wide & flat enough that it isnt pulling into or denting the drywall, and amazingly there is ZERO glare/reflection coming off the window.

Thanks everyone for your help, you gave me the info, perspectives, vocabulary and confidence to tackle this problem intelligently. :)

Case 1: Bridge Air Gap By Fastening to Building Structure With Overhung-load Bearing Fasteners
The air gap problem is quite common: The sheetrock on many walls I have encountered doesn't contact the studs everywhere.  So, when you tighten down a TV mount to the wall, the drywall deflects toward the studs.  You can easily cause cracking of the drywall, particularly when there is a seam in the area.

The principle of the solutions in this case make use of a fastener's ability to support an overhung load.

The fastener and the building structure have to be strong enough to withstand the torque created by the downward force of TV and Mount acting over the distance between the drywall surface and the building structure.
Case 1.1: Use Hanger Bolts
Assuming you find wood building structure in there (furring doesn't count here because it will twist under the torque), I recommend hanger bolts.
Use a spade bit to clear a hole in the drywall big enough to accommodate a nut flush with the surface of the drywall.  Then put the mount over the hanger bolt and tighten another nut down on that.  The first nut will keep the drywall from deflecting toward the wall.  Size the hanger bolt larger than normal because of the overhung load.  From your description I would guess that 4x 1/4" hanger bolts would be adequate.
Make sure you pilot drill for your hanger bolt or you risk splitting whatever wooden structure you're screwing into.

Case 1.2: Variation for Concrete Construction
I've also encountered furred out concrete clad in drywall (common in highrise condominiums).  In that case, the same principal as Case 1.1 applies, but use "drop-in anchors" and a threaded stud instead of hanger bolts.
Case 2: Fasten to Furring with No Air Gap
Sometimes drywall is attached to and is in contact with (i.e. no air gap) furring.
Case 2.1 Furring Attached to Building Structure
Where furring is attached directly to the building structure, drive multiple wood screws directly into the furring.  If there is some hard material behind the furring, ensure that the screws are short enough. Otherwise they can jack the furring from the building structure when their points impact cinderblock or concrete.

The principle of this solution is to transfer the load to the building's structure directly through the furring.

Case 2.2 Furring Dubiously Attached to Building Structure
Where furring and drywall are creating their own structure, drive multiple wood screws into the furring to fasten your TV mount.

The principle of this solution is to use the furring to distribute the load to a large area of the composite structure of furring and drywall.

Drywall itself is rather heavy, so if the wall is able to hold itself up, there's a good chance it can hold up your TV to provided you distribute the load over a large enough area of drywall and furring.


Screwing into the grout line between glass tiles I'm about to mount some shelving brackets onto a wall of 1" square glass tiles.  The entire wall is backed by 5/8" plywood, so I don't have to worry about hitting a stud.  With that kind of flexibility, I figure it's best to drive the screws into the grout lines instead of directly through the glass.  But I wonder...

Can I tap the screws straight into
the grout?
If I use a screw slightly
bigger than the grout lines (say 1/16" bigger), then
will I need to use a diamond drill
bit to bore out the holes first, so
that I don't risk cracking the
tiles?

The question you want to ask is, how important is it for me NOT to crack any of the glass tiles? If I were doing it, I would say VERY important, as replacing the broken glass tiles would be a major hassle. I would recommend getting the diamond or abrasive drill bit regardless, and then using it even if you do put your screws in through the grout lines. Make sure your screws are smaller in diameter than these holes - you don't want to stress the glass tiles, whether through a grout line or directly through a tile. As a bonus, if you go ahead with the drill bit, you have the flexibility of putting the shelf anwy


Would it be reasonable and legal to use AFCI receptacles next to a panel instead of AFCI breakers? I've been googling, searching this community and looking over the 2017 NEC codebook (which can be very confusing) and I've come to the conclusion that a crystal clear, no nonsense, straight forward answer to this question doesn't exist.  I don't know how, I must have overlooked it, but best I can tell, the information (in a very clear format) isn't out there.  So could someone please help me out here?  (sorry for the preface, I'm used to being accused of not doing research/making duplicate questions so I wanted to, more or less, show the steps I took before I decided to ask a question here).

AFCI breakers are significantly more expensive than AFCI receptacles.  (Scratch that, it's the GFCI breakers that are significantly more expensive than the receptacles...well regardless, I'm still curious about this and it would be good to know!) and I had the idea of installing an AFCI blank face outlet (which, I can't imagine what other use a blank face outlet would have honestly) right beside the breaker box before heading out to the circuit so that the entire circuit would be protected.

Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-SmartlockPro-Arc-Fault-Circuit-Interrupter-AFCI-Blank-Face-Outlet-White-AFRBF-W/301767741

My idea was to buy a metal multi-gang box (or more) and mount them beside the breaker box, then run conduit to them (short runs) and have the circuit go through these boxes which will have blank face AFCI receptacles (one per each circuit)

The only crystal clear piece of information that I have though is that from the box, to the first receptacle, it must be armor clad cabling, or in metal conduit and the first box must be metal and grounded.  This is where I get confused though because I've seen a couple of people state that every single box downstream of the AFCI receptacle must be metal also.  I've seen that specifically mentioned, but I've also seen it omitted (only mentioning conduit to the first box and the first box being metal).  Considering the entire reason for an AFCI in the first place, it makes sense that they require armor clad cabling or conduit up to the first AFCI protected receptacle, as well as that box being required to be metal.  But I don't understand why every box downstream must be metal too since, for all intents and purposes, this receptacle would be acting exactly like an AFCI breaker, which I don't believe I've seen anybody say that device boxes and junction boxes must be metal on an AFCI breaker protected circuit.

I didn't see anything in the NEC code book though, that was very clear that all receptacles downstream must be in a metal box, but the way they word things can be a little confusing so I could have misread/misunderstood.  So I'm wondering if maybe somebody just made that assumption and said that but it's not actually required?

My concern is not about being code compliant, but rather safety.  Obviously I must be at least code compliant, but it's like it was stressed when I was driving a truck over the road;  Be SAFE and legal.  Safety ALWAYS comes before being legal.

Thank you kindly for your help!

The 4x4 box right next to the service panel is a great idea, and I do that myself a lot.

Nobody cares which wiring method you use downstream of the AFCI.

Between the service panel and the AFCI, the inherent problem is the AFCI would never* detect a problem on that stretch of wire.  That is a vulnerability, so that is where they require metal jacketed cable before the AFCI if the AFCI is not a breaker.

So, use a better wiring method.  I have to say, for wiring between a panel and a very nearby box, EMT is faraway the easiest way to do that IMO. Keep it shorter than 2 feet, whcich eliminates the wire derate for 5 or more circuits.  Ideally use 3/4 conduit, which has room for more than 10 wires and will give easier pulling.

Go to a metal 4x4 x 2-1/4 box, and use a 2-GFCI lid with 1/2" of lift.  That will give you plenty of practical room to fit wires.  If needed use an EMT nipple to chain to another 4x4 box.  An arc fault inside this heavy metal is very unlikely to successfully  start a fire.

Use THHN wire on through the conduit.  If the circuit can't easily be moved to terminate in the box, come back into the service panel with THHN and splice there.  This out-and-back-in method has 4 wires in the conduit per circuit, so watch your conduit fills.

* Actually, AFCIs do have some ability to detect arc faults immediately before them.  We recently had a Siemens AFCI breaker faulting because it was clipped into a GE panel, and the clip/bus was not quite compatible.


How do I remove water trapped within wrought iron railing? In the process of repainting my wrought iron fence, I had discovered that in a few of the rails, water started to leak out at the weld joints attached to the bottom rail while removing paint & rust with a steel brush!  Apparently, water had entered through gaps in the weld joints of the rails directly under the top rail during the rainy season and has been trapped over the dry months until just recently when I had removed enough paint around the weld joint allowing water to seep out! (Wondering if there are additional rails that have water trapped but hadn't leaked out due to good weld joints at bottom rail!)

My question is how best can I drain the water from the rails that have water trapped within prior to my resealing the weld joints with new primer and paint? Would it be practical to try to blow the water out with an air compressor or is my best bet to simply drill a hole near the bottom of each rail?  I suppose I could simply reseal the water within with new paint, however, I would imagine that the water would rust the interior of the rail tubes! Also, might be good idea to caulk all of the weld joints under top rails to prevent additional water penetration in the future!

Keep in mind that through condensation alone, the humidity in the air and temperature variation, if those risers can breath they will accumulate water.  I would, as you have said, drill small weep holes as low as possible.  With normal evaporation, this will mitigate the problem the best.  Keep the lower plates painted with a good quality paint and you should see minimal rust.


How do I repair water-damaged hardwood floors? We moved a pot plant that was sitting on top of the wood floor. We discovered there's a wet spot about 2 inches wide where a couple of seams meet.

The wet spot has probably been there for months.

What measures does one take to repair the wood floor?

I had a similar problem in a home I used to own - we pulled up the carpets and found that there were spots where the floor was black underneath.

We sanded the floors to remove the varnish, and then used bleach to fix the discoloration in the hardwood floor.  It turned out really well.

Here are more detailed instructions: http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/how-to-bleach-stains-on-wood-floors.shtml

Do not breathe in the bleach fumes!

P.S.  Let the wood dry before starting this.


How can I separate a drain pipe from a sleeve protruding from the floor? I am assuming that this late 1940s, early 1950s, drain pipe, which goes into a pipe protruding up through the floor, is simply sealed there with putty. Is that correct?  Should it be dislodged and removed by twisting the drain pipe a few inches above the connection using a pair of channel-lock pliers?  The threads for the trap are completely corroded and it needs to be replaced.

I would just cut the pipe 10" above the floor and go to a home store or plumbing supply and get the PVC fitting to reconnect the existing pipe to your sink. If you try to twist it you might damage it beyond repair and then you could be in some trouble...


Status of solar-powered landscaping lights As of now (9/2018), are solar-powered landscaping lights a sensible option?

In 5-year intervals, for the past 15 years, I've been suckered into buying solar-powered landscaping lights and every time it has been a complete waste of money. The lights are dim, last for about two hours after dark, and the battery loses its ability to charge in about 4-6 months.

Before I repeat the same mistake, I figured I'd ask: Have solar-powered lights improved significantly over the past 5 years to the point that one should consider buying them again? Perhaps this question could be answered for path-lighting lights as well as lights designed to be pointed at trees and house walls.

I have fence-post-top solar lights purchased some more than five years ago and a couple more recently. What I've found is the older models use NiCad batteries and the newer, slightly more expensive ones use lithium based batteries.

The NiCad versions are useless and no longer illuminate, while the lithium versions are still alight the next morning. In the winter, with the shorter daylight hours, they won't last the entire night but continue to return each summer, thus far.

I've been considering popping the dead ones off and getting the new stuff, but it's easy to put things off.

Read the fine print, aim for the lithium powered stuff, and you may have better luck.


How should I hang a bent whiteboard? I have a 4’x6’, aluminum-framed whiteboard that was leaned vertically against a wall for storage, in exactly the way you’re not supposed to. So it’s curved.

I have mounted this bent whiteboard once before, using about 20 metal mirror clips, each anchored into the wall, spaced approximately 1 foot apart. This was nightmare both to install and to repair when I took it down.

I have tried bending it back straight again, to basically no effect. I placed it flat on the ground with a blanket over it and loaded it with hundreds of pounds of weight, evenly spaced, so that it was held perfectly flat against the floor. I left it like that for weeks, and that had no effect at all.

I suspect that the curvature is actually from the aluminum, so I’m guessing if I could somehow heat up the metal a lot, and then flatten the piece, that might work? But I have no idea how to DIY that.

I think one thing that would work is a mirror-hanging, z-clip style fastener that was made with thicker gauge metal. The thicker metal would prevent the clip from bending under pressure, allowing me to use significantly fewer clips. But so far I can find no such thing.

I also am aware of very strong mounting tape. I have my doubts that it’s strong enough, but I have no doubt that it’s strong enough to ruin the wall, which I’d prefer to avoid since it’s not my wall. I’d actually rather the 20 clip solution that was a nightmare, just because I know I can patch 20 half inch holes, whereas who knows what the wall would look like after using enough mounting tape to hold a whiteboard.

So I’m out of smart ideas. How do I hang a bent whiteboard?

Put long wood boards about 2-3" wide across the bend, and glue and screw the whiteboard to the 3" wide boards to force the whiteboard to be flat. Squish the bent whiteboard against the 3" boards. I prefer to add screws because glue often fails in damp environments, or just over time.

Example: Curved whiteboard is on the left, straightening board on the right.


How do I apply BNC connectors without breaking them? I have some RG-59 coax cable and I want to terminate it with BNC compression connectors.  I bought some compression connectors, and what I think is a pretty good quality compression tool — the Liberty CM-TOOL.  But every time I try one, it cracks the white plastic and bends the metal out around it.  I tried to show what I mean in this picture.  It sort of makes sense why the plastic cracking; the tool applies a great deal of force to that area.  So how is this supposed to work?

There's a large variety of compression tools and connectors, and unfortunately they aren't all compatible with each other. Most likely you'll need to use a different tool or connector style to make a proper compression fitting. But a few tips from the last time I was installing coax connectors:

Make sure the tool is properly adjusted, especially with the depth.
Fully seat the connector inside the tool so you get 3 sides secured where the cable exits the tool.
Select the correct die if you have a choice and properly align the end of the connector with the tool.
If you aren't sure of the depth or start to warp or bend the connectors, only partially compress the fitting, spin the cable so other sides are being stressed near the cable, and adjust the depth until you have reached full compression but no further.


Can I splice and extend feeder wires to a barn? Running three #4 wires 150' underground to a new barn.

I ended up 12' short of the disconnect switch. is it okay to mount a weather proof junction box on the exterior wall of the barn and then splice them to feed over to the disconnect switch.

If this is okay, how high above the ground should the junction box be?

Since you are pulling in conduit, you don't need a full blown box for this job.  Simply use an appropriately sized, weatherproof conduit body (a Type C is what you want, by the way) made from the same material as your conduit.

However, you will need to use the 314.28(A)(2) rule that the body must be no shorter than six times the distance from the entrance to the opposite wall/exit in order to size the body correctly, as you are splicing 4AWG or larger conductors in the body.


Would a paint stripper brush remove stain and varnish from a door frame? I wonder if anyone can help me? I have a wood door frame that had been previously stained and varnished, and I would like to strip this back to its original wood. Would a normal paint stripper do the job?

That wire wheel might help if there are nooks and crannys, like fine detail. But I am afraid what you will need is a lot of elbow grease and sandpaper. Starting with coarse and working down to fine, using steel wool and/or wire bushes for the detail work. Good quality chemical strippers are helpful if you are able to cope with the mess/smell/health hazards.

Wood stains are called that because they stain the wood, by soaking in and penetrating the wood fibers. You may never be able to remove all traces of the stain and bring it back to "original wood". You should be prepared to consider a new stain, maybe a light color near to what your vision of "original" was. This will help cover inevitable areas of imperfection and help blend the door color prior to varnishing.


Having difficulty fixing my sagging door by bending its hinge I've watched a few YouTube videos that showed me how to fix a sagging door by bending the knuckles of the door hinge, such as this one and this one here.

However, I am perplexed as to how these instructors are able to do this by using a crescent wrench as the tool to do so. I just can't seem to get a firm grip on the knuckles to perform the bend. This isn't surprising considering that the shape of the knuckles is circular, thus causing the tool to slip/rotate.

Am I missing something?

In all my years of hanging doors, prehung and many from scratch, where the hinges were cut in as well as all the other hardware, I have never needed to bend a single hinge. If the sagging is from loose screws, they need tightening or replace with a longer screw for better grab. Sometimes the hinge need a shim placed behind it cut from cardboard and build up the thickness as needed to get the gap right. Even hinge makers supply the precut cardboard to use as shims. At least with Stanley commercial grade hinges. But there would need to be a really good series of pictures presented to suggest where the shims need to go or even where the problem area might be. But these two tricks are all I ever used to remedy a door that was originally set well in it's opening. If it was not set right to begin with, usually other factors need to be addressed as well


Temporarily using 240v electric hot water heater with 120v from generator I live in South Florida. Hurricanes happen, and knock the power out for weeks at a time when they do.

I don't need water that's steaming hot, but I really want to be able to take showers that are at LEAST "tolerably tepid" when running from generator power for days or weeks at a time (when connected, the water heater could be the generator's ONLY load if necessary).

The devil, of course, is in the details... specifically, I'm strugging to figure out how many amperes my water heater will draw when powered by 120 volts instead of 240 volts, so I can size the wire and plug appropriately.

Based on my understanding of Ohm's Law, when fed 120v (pin mapping below), the water heater will draw 9.375 amperes, and its heating coils will output 1,125 watts of heat. As far as I know, it's a straightforward pure resistive load, and only one heating element at a time is ever in use (top heats until water reaches set point, then bottom heats until either bottom reaches set point or top falls below set point). This seems to imply that when running, the water heater would draw slightly more power than a toaster (9A), but less power than my laser printer (11A when preheating the fuser or actively printing).

Is this correct? Would it REALLY draw only 1,125 watts (9.375 amperes) from the generator? Do I have the connections right, or are there additional things to consider with regard to neutral and ground?

Details:

I live alone, so I don't have to supply hot (or at least tepid) water to anyone besides myself.

My hot water heater (unlikely to be replaced anytime soon) is a standard 40-gallon electric water heater (US/Craftmaster Water Heater Company, model E1F40RD045V). It's 10+ years old, and has no "smart" features or electronics whatsoever.

The sticker on the side lists the following specs:

Phase           1      1
Volts AC       208    240
Upper Element 3380   4500
Lower Element 3380   4500
Total
Connected
Watts         3380   4500

The water heater has a standard NEMA 10-30 plug. The two hot leads from its power cord are connected to something inside the water heater, and the middle (neutral) lead from the power cord is connected to a screw on the water heater's chassis.

Wiring Plan:

Build a custom extension cord with receptacle suitable for the water heater at one end, and plug suitable for the generator at the other. When connected to the generator, the water heater would be its ONLY load.

120v generator hot to water heater's "240v" hot #1
120v generator neutral to water heater's "240v" hot #2
120v generator ground to water heater's "240v" neutral (which is actually bolted to the water heater's chassis).

Your math is on the money

You are indeed spot on that your heater will draw 9.375A when connected across a 120V supply.

And your 120V wiring is correct as well

You are indeed correct that the two water heater hots should be connected to hot and neutral of the 120V supply, and the supply ground should ground the water heater.

However, your 240V wiring is a miss

You have the wrong plug and socket configuration for your 240V wiring though.  While it's not unsafe currently if it was wired directly back to the main panel as your appliance is 240V only and thus needs no neutral, the NEMA 10 was intended for 120/240V apps, not 240V-only apps like yours.  The correct plug and socket is a NEMA 6-30, which is "hot-hot-ground" instead of the "hot-hot-neutral" of the NEMA 10 series.

I'd replace the NEMA 10 with a NEMA 6 and then either:

use an adapter cord wired as you describe (with 14AWG wire) to plug the NEMA 6-30 into a 5-15 (regular) receptacle.  Make sure to label the cord as "FOR WATER HEATER ONLY" so someone doesn't use it on an appliance that will pull 30A at 120V -- a 15A/250V fuse in the adapter assembly would be a wise thing to have, even, as protection against such oopses.
change cords when making the generator connection, as your water heater has a terminal box on it that can be used -- a 14AWG power cord with screw leads at one end and a normal 5-15P at the other can be used, wired as you describe.  Make sure to wire up the water heater end first, and not to leave the unused cord connected at either end!

How to hardwire this switcheroo (properly!)

If you want to configure this as a hard-wired sort of thing (for instance, if you already have a transfer switch or generator interlocked subpanel installed), it's not impossible (or particularly expensive), it just requires a bit of unconventional (but still Code insofar that putting a 240V water heater on a 120V supply can be considered Code to begin with) wiring.

You'll need for this:

A Reliance Panel/Link TRB0603D manual transfer switch
Some /2 with ground cable of the appropriate type and a gauge that matches the existing wiring from the generator inlet
An Eaton BRWH220 breaker -- you'll probably need to have your supply house order this in for you, but it shouldn't be terribly expensive
Wire nuts and THHN that match that existing generator cable for a bit of pigtailing
And inch-pound torque tools and bits for assembly

First off, make sure that existing breaker for the water heater is off, and that your water heater is a conventional electric tank heater with an electromechanical thermostat and no existing connection to the mains neutral (putting 120VAC on a heat pump or hybrid water heater will lead to severe compressor damage, while tankless electric heaters are simply too beastly for any reasonably sized residential generator to have a hope).  You'll also need to torque all the lugs you're fitting wires to the manufacturer's specification -- this is a very good reliability measure in addition to being a new requirement (110.14(D)) in the 2017 NEC.

Pick a spot where you can cut the water heater branch circuit and run a cable conveniently to the existing transfer means, then cut into the water heater circuit and install the new transfer switch there.  Land the existing hot wires from the breaker on the lugs of the new transfer switch's "utility" breaker, and land the hot wires going out to the water heater on the main lugs inside the transfer switch (they're the two large lugs attached directly to the busbars).  Land the ground wires on the ground bar.

Now, run that new length of /2 cable from the existing transfer means
 to the new transfer switch.  At the existing transfer means, splice into one hot leg with a THHN pigtail and a wirenut -- the pigtail routes to the terminal the hot leg in question once landed, and the black wire from the new cable goes into this splice as well.  Do likewise with a matching pigtail and the generator's neutral wire, this time hooking the white wire from the new cable into the splice, and land the new ground on a ground bar.  The result is a generator-only 120V feed to the new transfer switch.

Now, install the BRWH220 into the new transfer switch, preferably on the same side as the generator breaker.  This breaker is special in that it has a pair of isolated line lugs instead of taking its line-in from the busbar stabs, thus allowing it to be hooked to a circuit of different characteristics than what the loadcenter it is in is connected to (say one on a separate meter, which is the originally intended application for this oddity of a breaker).  Take one of the outside lugs (either one works, they're both line lugs) and land the black wire from the new cable on it.  The white wire from the new cable goes to one lug on the "generator" breaker already installed into the new transfer switch, and the new cable's ground wire goes into the new transfer switch's grounding bar.  Last but not least, use another piece of that THHN from earlier to connect the inside lug on the same side of the BRWH220 that you already wired to (that's the matching load lug) to the remaining lug on the "generator" breaker in the new transfer switch.

Button everything back up, turn the water heater's breaker back on, and make sure the water heater runs both off mains and off the generator, with correct voltage (240V for utility power, 120V for generator power) at the terminals of the water heater.  Now, when the power goes out, you'll be able to transfer the water heater to generator power and have it run at half-voltage (quarter power) without fussing with cords or the likes.


How do I remove the plastic at the tip of my faucet handle? My faucet handle has a plastic "lid" on the tip and I cannot remove it. I have tried prying it out, but I'm scared I will damage the plastic. Please help!!

It will pry out, you will need a razor knife with a heavy duty blade to start the gap to finish prying it out.


How can I repair a granite countertop where multpile chunks have broken off? A mirror door on the bathroom medicine cabinet broke off and took out a good chunk of granite countertop on the bathroom sink fixture. We're not talking about a crack or chip, not something small. We're talking about a good 3 or 4 multiple big chunks, all from the edge.

It looks something like this but about 3 times more damage.

(source: seibertsmith.com)

Or this:

Does Home Depot or Lowes have people who can repair countertops, or should I go Google searching for professionals in my area?

If I choose to do this myself, any idea on how and where I'd start? I'm more of a person good with electronics and computers. I wouldn't call myself a home improvement handyman type of guy but I'm willing to try and be patient and learn.

Given that you have a normal size sink you can get up to 48" pieces for less than $100 and sometimes as little as $40-50 for a smaller top.  You aren't going to be happy paying money (you buying materials is $40) and then seeing that the granite with deformations and epoxy lines.  (craigslist has many people selling leftover granite sink tops)


Can an isolation valve be used to reduce pressure? The pipes going to the shower unit from the boiler both have isolation valves on them, which look like this:

Can these valves be closed slightly to reduce pressure going through the pipes, or is it advised to only use them in fully open or fully closed positions?

Thanks!

They won't reduce the static pressure, just the dynamic pressure when there is water flow. It depends what problem you are trying to solve.

If it is to balance Hot / Cold a bit then yes, closing one a bit will work. It may be a little noisy, but nothing compared to a shower. If your static pressure is too high and you are leaking somewhere then no - it won't make any difference.


How do I read the usage information my electrical meter sends to my power company? I would like to keep an eye on what information my power meter sends to my electric company. Is there a way to use, for example, powerline networking to read what usage statistics the power meter sends to my electric company?

I live in Texas, and there is a public information type site that is maintained by a group called Smart Meters Texas.

Smart Meter Texas

On this site you can sign up, register your electric meter, and then see the data from it in 15 minute intervals.  The data is delayed about two days, but it's very informative.

You may search for your area or ask your public utility company if they have something similar.


How do I replace a dimmer switch with a single switch? I'm trying to replace a dimmer switch with a regular light switch. The same box also has another dimmer and fan control switch next to the one I want to replace. The dimmer has 2 wires, a pink and black. I want to know which wires to use for this light switch. Everywhere I look dimmers have 3 wires. Should I unwrap one of the bare wires and use it with the new switch? The switch controls a light with 3 bulbs and this is the only switch.

To make the switch work, you'll simply attach the two wires you removed from the dimmer to the new switch. If there wasn't a grounding conductor attached to the dimmer, you have a couple options for grounding the new switch.
Add a grounding conductor
You can use a length of bare copper or green insulated wire, and connect it in an approved manner to the other grounding conductors in the box. Then you'll attach the other end of your grounding pigtail to the switch.  You could use a twist-on connector, crimp connector, terminal block, push-in connector, or any other UL listed product designed for this.
Adding a grounding conductor is the preferred method.
Self grounding device
If it's a metal box, you could use a self grounding device.  The switch will then be grounded to the box through the attachment screw, assuming of course that the box itself is grounded (which it should be if it's metal, but don't make assumptions when working with electricity). Self grounding devices will be labeled as such, and will have a little copper doohickey around the attachment screw hole.

NOTE:
If you're attaching a grounding pigtail to the other grounding conductors in the box, make sure all the existing grounding conductors stay connected. DO NOT permanently remove grounding conductors from the bundle, they must all be connected together.


How to fix an electrical outlet where the threaded mounting hole is stripped? The threaded mounting hole in my metal (based on OPs comment) electrical outlet is stripped; please refer to where the top flat-head screw is in the photo.

As a result, the electrical outlet is not physically stable. How should I fix the problem without hiring an electrician?  Thanks in advance.

If the hole is slightly stripped, then slipping some type of material in the hole to take up space might do the trick.  A small sliver of card stock or paper or a very thin strand of copper wire (thin like a thread, not thick house wiring).

If that doesn't work or if the hole is actually cracked wide open, you could use glue to hold the screw in place.  Superglue will probably work well and will set fast.  Epoxy is another good choice, but it can be a bit messy.  Even something as basic as wood glue would work to some degree, but that takes a while to dry.  Epoxy will be the strongest choice here.  The other glues would probably fail after a while or if you tried to plug in something with a very stiff cord.

Glue will make it impossible to remove the outlet, but since the box is broken already, anyone that would replace the outlet would just replace the box as well.  They are usually very easy to replace once you've done it a few times.


How should I fill in decorative "gashes" in wood siding? Our house has old siding with decorative holes:

At first I thought this might be termite damage but a house inspector examined it and confirmed that this is purely decorative style. I'd like to change this.

Is there a wood filler I can use here? Or is replacing the entire plank the only option?

I'm reluctant to replace entire pieces because there is insulation blown in behind the wall and removing the pieces could get messy.

Wow, not exactly what I'd call decorative, but whatever.  You can fill those gaps with Bondo auto body filler.  Just be sure to clean out any loose or chipped paint etc. Auto body willer actually works better than wood filler in exterior applications.


How high to seal vapor retarder in open ceiling basement I'm finishing my basement with an open ceiling am trying to figure out how high the vapor retarder needs to go. The wall will be insulated with mineral wool and the rim joists with 2" XPS + 3.5" mineral wool. A vapor retarder will be used for the wall, but I'm unsure about the space between rim joists. Does it need vapor retarder? If so, what is the best way to do so? Doing each cavity separately seems like a pain.

Having the ends of your joists rot out is also a pain. If you don't seal the spaces from the warm, moist air inside, it will infiltrate, cool, and dump water in the cavity and insulation - that's why a vapor barrier is used.
Probably the "least painful" approach (assuming cold climate) would be to insulate the rim joist spaces with the mineral wool outside and the XPS inside, and use closed-cell spray foam to seal the XPS in each cavity, since XPS is a vapor barrier itself. You'll need some sort of fire barrier (such as sheetrock) over the XPS, though.


Is it safe to put pots and pans with hard plastic handles on the bottom rack of the dishwasher? I have a Whirlpool dishwasher I bought in 2014. It works fine. But where should I put pots and pans with hard plastic handles when I load the dishwasher? I want to put them on the bottom rack, but I wonder if even hard plastic handles might melt from the dryer element at the bottom. Other than the handles, these pots and pans are otherwise made of metal.


Rotary hammers, how many joules to hammer through concrete slab? I'm in need to buy a rotary hammer to make some holes in a slab about 12 cm thick of armed concrete. The holes will be between 5 and 10 cm in diameter, so I will have to hammer a round opening instead of drilling through (or drill lots of holes in a circle).

The rotary hammers in the market goes from 2,5 to 30J. I have no idea of how much energy I need to this task and I wasn't able to find it anywhere. The price goes up really high (and so is the weight of the tool).

The smaller models (about 2,7J) like Bosch GBH 2-24 costs about 7 days of rental of a bigger model (about 10J), so I'm inclined to buy one if it will work.

It's mostly going to be about speed - if you are patient and like handwork, a star drill and 4 lb / 2 kg hand sledge will drill holes in concrete or granite. If you plan to drill many small holes and then hammer out the plug, the smallest rotary hammer drills will generally do that just fine. The bigger ones may do it much faster, and will do it with bigger bits.

The "nice way" to drill finished holes of the size you want is with a core drill (which just drills around the edge, like a hole saw, leaving a plug or core) but those cost serious money even to rent/hire, usually.


How two install hardwood floors in a long room with a subfloor that has a plane change in the middle? I'm installing 3/4 oak hardwood floors in a long room (45') and the floor is flat, with one exception. The house is a 100+ year old brick townhome with the back half built at a later date. Midway through the room (where the "extension" starts) the plane of the subfloor changes such that a slight crown is created running perpendicular to the direction of the intended hardwood install. There are no signs of recent settlement in the house.

While the angle is relatively slight, due to its position in the middle of the floor, I'm wondering what the best way to approach this is. My current thought is to sand the crown to take the edge off and lay a row of shingles on each side to make the change more gradual. I'm leaning in this direction because previously there were hardwood floors laid in the room and I never noticed a crown in the floor. I thought about adding sleepers, but I worry that fixing the angle over 20+ feet would make the sleepers way too large at the far wall. Does my approach seem reasonable?

Yeah, I would nix the sleeper idea too. Sand away or rent/buy a Power Planer or Belt Sander to take the hump down. Or, remove the subfloor rows (assuming they're running parallel with the hump) & replace them with thinner stock or plywood of the right thickness.

On the flip side, literally, if you have access to the floor structure from below you may find repairs needed there that can bring the old floor up. The old structure may very well be led-in into the bricks will be found to have crushed or sawed-down the bricks or mortar to explain the hump.

The joists would just need to be shimmed up & you may elect to do them all to fix other such deflection issues in the rest of the original house. Be cautious though because fixing the structure can cause cosmetic problems if you find big drops that need actual jacking.


Can bathroom lights be on same circuit as bedroom lights? I know bathroom outlets must be on their own circuit.  Can the bathroom lights be on the same circuit as say the bedroom and hall lights?

Yes. There's nothing different about bathroom lights vs bedroom lights. In fact, I would say it's a bad idea to tie the bathroom lights to the bathroom outlet (which should be a GFCI). Otherwise you drop your hair dryer and suddenly you're in the dark!

The only thing you might need to consider is that bathrooms tend to have exhaust fans on the same circuit as the lights. These tend to draw more amps than a light, so make sure you don't overload your circuit.


Are phosphate floor screws suitable for subfloor which will be covered in thinset and cement board? I am installing hardiebacker concrete board with thinset to a plywood subfloor.

I am putting down the new subfloor and want to be sure the screws that I use to secure the plywood to the joists will not corrode from the layer of thinset over the subfloor.

All the floor screws I could find in the box stores are black phosphate screws. Are these black phosphate screws alkali resistant and will they be OK in contact with a layer of thinset and cement board on top of the subfloor?

Phosphate offers no more protection than galvanized or paint coating ; The good news is once the thinset cures ,they will always be dry so corrosion won't be a problem.


Is it okay to use a ball joint coupler to stop a hose bib leak? I had a small leak coming from my pressure valve. I put this ball joint coupler on the end of it to stop the leak. Is this ok?

Short term it is better then having a dripping valve.  In the picture the valve is a common type that is easy to repair with a new washer and packing.  Bib washer video


Repainted wall is peeling So I painted my wall because it was peeling and my wall now looks like this and yes the paint I put on the peeling spots are dry please Help!!

Looks like there's something causing damp on the walls - which is most likely why the old paint was peeling in the first place.

Ideally you need to track down what's causing this in the first place (take it from me these things don't just get better on their own!) - if you can't track this down though or the issue isn't something that is going to get worse or cause other problems you could try coating the wall with some damp sealant paint and re-painting over that.


Extend Wi-Fi to second floor I live in a building that has 2 floors, a friend living on the ground floor has a broadband connection which he uses by connecting the broadband cable to a WiFi router. New he has agreed to share his broadband with me but I live on the First Floor. I want to know how do I extend the network from the ground floor to the first floor.
I have an idea so far: I'll buy a new WiFi router and connect my router with the one on the ground floor using a RJ45 Ethernet cable and install the new router in my living room on the first floor thereby creating my own Wifi with a different SSID and password. I want to know if this is going to work or not, if not then please suggest me the best and the cheapest way possible.
Additional Details:
WiFi routers used by both of us :- TP Link TL-WR845N.
Broadband Speed :- 25Mbps (25 Megabits per second)

This should work just fine, and gives you the advantage, if setup properly, of mostly separating the two networks. The key is that (typically) a router will have one "in" port and four "out" ports. Your router should have one of the "out" ports from your friend's router go into the "in" port on your router.
The one catch is that, unless the your friend's router is configured to separate the port going to your router from all the other ports, you may be able to see your friend's devices, though your friend will not be able to see your devices. That can lead to three types of possible problems:

You could print on your friend's networked printers. Not a big deal, as the first time he will complain and the second time start charging for paper/toner.
If any of your computers are infected with viruses, your friend's computers would be at risk.
If your friend's computers have minimal security, you may be able to get to "shared" files.

In addition, no matter how you set up the routers (e.g., even if you have one master router and two slaves, so that you can't possibly see each other's computers), if one of you does some nasty stuff that gets you on an IP black list, both of you will be affected.


How to mount screw in a worn out hole My door lock has 3 screws that attach the lock portion to the wooden door. 2/3 screws no longer "grip" the wooden door as when I drill it goes straight through the hole. Moving the lock is not an option. I was thinking of filling the existing hole with some type of putty and then drilling into it but not sure how to approach the problem properly.

Your putty (or better, wood filler) approach will kind of work, but that isn't a good solution for holding screws in wood.  Those products tend to crumble and don't bond all that well with the wood, so they don't hold up well for this use.

BillDOe's dowel solution is a standard way to get strength roughly equivalent to the original wood.  There's a simpler version of the solution.  Fill the old holes with glued wooden toothpicks.

You break the toothpicks in half and alternate fat side or thin side in.  Dip the toothpick in wood glue, and stick it in the hole.  Add more until you've filled the hole and can't push any more in.

Find a nail that's a slightly smaller diameter than the body of the screw (the core under the threads), coat it with a little Vaseline, and tap it into the middle of the toothpicks while the glue is still wet.  This will compress the toothpicks into a solid mass and create a pilot hole for the screw.

When the glue is dry, remove the nail and trim off the toothpick ends sticking out from the surface.


Clearing a clogged tub Our shower has been draining very, very slowly.  We have a hair catcher that seems to be working well (it catches a good amount of hair).  I tried running a snake (two different sizes) down the overflow but it doesn't catch anything before I can't go any further.  It appears we have a system like the first diagram in this answer, except there is no Trip Lever or stopper (I've tried removing it, but I haven't been able).  So I think that the snake is too big to fit through the spring.  I've tried using a plunger (with a wash cloth over the overflow) and various Drain-o like products.  But nothing seems to help.  Anything else I can try?  Or is it time for a plumber?

Finally got a plumber out.  Apparently the device should have been removed when the previous owner redid the bathroom, so now it's sort of "stuck" or a part of the tub.  It can be removed, but will be fairly costly to remove.  The plumber actually broke his snake trying to get down to the clog, so it wasn't just me having problems.  Fortunately, the tub seems to be draining a bit better these days.


How to connect liquidtite to schedule 80 (or 40) pvc conduit? I'm running 3/4" Schedule 80 PVC conduit above ground for some backyard electrical.  There is a section where I need to go up a retaining wall to a receptacle box, and then back down to continue the run.
It's complicated to do straight runs here and I really think the best way for me to do this is to use flexible liquid-tight conduit at the receptacle box, but I can't figure out how to connect the straight sch 80 PVC pipe with the flexible liquidtight conduit.   All the connectors I'm finding online show a compression bushing for the liquidtight and external threads with locknut for outlet box (which I can use for the box).  But I'm looking to do conduit<->conduit.
Addendum: The conduit body + liquidtight coupler looks like it would solve my issue? (at minute 3:00) https://youtu.be/QcxWw_M6uVE?t=180

Don't use flexible conduit for your application.
PVC is very easy to bend.  I use an electric heat gun like the kind you use for stripping paint.  The great thing about bending it is those bends remain water-tight and save you money on couplers.
If you decide to do a conduit-coupler-conduit connection you don't need a threaded connection with gaskets.  You need a PVC coupling.  You can connect them together by PVC-welding (it's like gluing), the same way PVC plumbing pipes are connected.  Notice the small amount of goo that dropped out of the connection when I welded this PVC conduit to the fitting for the box it goes into.  Check YouTube for videos on how to do this; it's really easy.  Don't get the stuff on your hands (that's why I'm wearing a latex glove in the photo) and don't inhale it.


remove old brass tap I have been unsuccessful in my attempts to remove this type of tap in my bathroom. It is leaking and it gets worse and worse everyday so I'd thought of replacing the washer.

What are the next steps?

What are the next steps?

I don't know all of them but I suspect they start with

lift the handle off the splined shaft (it may be very stiff)
look for a locking nut that secures the valve mechanism into the body of the faucet

this may be hidden under a brass skirt that can be lifted when the handle is out of the way

lift out, or unscrew the valve mechanism
remove the washer from the bottom of the mechanism - it may be held in place by a screw.


Should I install baseboards before or after skimcoating? My bathroom walls were a mix of plaster and drywall with various layers of paint, primer, and skim coating. I attempted to skim coat the walls myself to prepare for priming and painting, but I wasn't happy with the results so I hired someone to do it right. The walls are smooth now but not quite flat. For example, if you put a baseboard against one wall the baseboard touches the wall at two high points horizontally and there is space between the rest of the baseboard and wall.

The drywall guy said he would come back and fix anything that needs to be done such as those gaps and any other wall imperfections. He said however, that I should prime the walls and finish and nail the baseboards before he fixes the imperfections. He said that many of the subtle nicks and grooves in the wall would stand out better once the primer had been applied. He also said that he could achieve better results if the baseboards were nailed in first rather than using a straight edge to even out the low points, and that he would fill in from the top of the baseboards on up.

It seems to me that it would be easier to use a straight edge to even it out and that the baseboards would only get in the way. He said he didn't want to make it flat only to have me put on the baseboards and find out that it still looked off. I don't really buy that. It also seems odd to prime first before getting all the imperfections since the primer seals the wall and putting patches on top of that doesn't seem quite right. I'm not a professional and I don't want to tell him how to do his job, but if he's cutting corners I don't want to be taken advantage of either. Personally I think he should have evened out the low points at the beginning. Hidden nicks I can understand.

I'd be grateful for any informed opinions.

I would put on the baseboards, but only tack them in place so they can easily be removed when the drywall guy is done.

The reason he is probably asking you to install them, is so he can make sure you are happy with the finish before he leaves so he doesn't have to come back.

It's probably a good idea anyway, because it would be a shame to get all the painting done only to realize the baseboards don't fit right.  Then you would have to start all over again.


Alternative to large edge standoffs Are there small alternatives to the large edge standoffs used to mount glass and signs such as the one in the picture below that you can grab at a local hardware or crafts store?

Looking for something to mount a flat piece. The flat piece has no holes and a frame to hold it is not an option. The mounting solution has to be sturdy yet easy to take off or put back (i.e. not things like glue) as well as aesthetically pleasing (i.e. not things like velcro and zip ties).

One solution I could think of was a screw and a bunch of nuts. Though I do not know what type of screw would have such a large head.

Also for scale, the flat piece is about the size and weight of a smart phone (2.25" wide, 3.25" long, 1/8" high). It will be used as a touch display so drilling holes onto it is not an option. The standoff aspect is needed because there are electronics mounted on the back.

One option is "mirror clips" or "concealed mirror clips". These can be used to mount flat items to a surface without requiring holes etc in the piece to be fastened in place.


What are these fasteners on this hinge? Just moved into a new apartment and one of the doors is mounted with these fasteners I’ve never seen. I’d like to take this door out, but I’m struggling to figure out how to remove these without breaking them.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Looks like they used rivets. The only way to remove them, is to  destroy them (drill them out).


Need help tracking down possible open neutral OK, moved into 1974 mobile home two months ago, everything was working.  Had an incident much like a breaker tripping, but none were.  One day of flickering devices, then back to normal except none of the 220V appliances work.  Stove turns on but doesn't get hot, dryer buzzes but doesn't turn on, etc.  Also some weird behavior, turning the breaker to the hot water heater off made the lights in the kitchen go out, but then turning the stove on with the breaker still off made them turn on (I have junctions inside receptacles, i.e. through the "tab").

OK, so when I test the box, I have 122-124V on one side/branch, and 100-108V on the other, they fluctuate a little.  All of the breakers have at least 100V between them and the ground bars.  I turned the master off and measured about 2-4 ohms resistance between neutral and ground in several of the problem receptacles.

If I can figure out which wire is causing a problem at the box, I can track it down and replace whatever (pigtail, receptacle, switch, or wire if need be)...  I'm just not sure where to start.

Should I pull the neutrals one by one and test them for...  voltage against hot?  Where should I start?  Thanks in advance.

Posting this for continuity, the results.

I actually had an open hot on one leg or branch of the breaker box, that much I knew.  Here is how I found out, and what I did.

OK, so I finally got the old lady to rest long enough to unplug all the breakers (physically removed from breaker box).  Still had low voltage on one breaker bar.  We have a master breaker outside, near the meter.

It's at the top, this was a reference picture I took.  Normally has a cover on it.

Ok, so I test the two at the meter...  and they're both good there...  so the problem is in what I find is called the "service entrance", the wiring from the meter to the breaker box.  I should say now, the following repair should NOT be done by someone unfamiliar with general construction principles, and home wiring guidelines.  There are laws governing how this type of repair should be done (search "service entrance" for your particular state), and not following these rules and guidelines could result in death, shock, and fines.

So my line runs about four feet underground to the trailer, lift the skirt and the rest is aboveground.  According to the guidelines for Indiana, it should be 24in deep, in conduit.  It was not.  Not 24in deep.  Not in conduit.  It was 100A cable, run diagonally from ground level to about 18in down where it leaves the meter in sch. 80 PVC.  And, just as I expected, I found this:

So, I wasn't sure about which cable to get, so I got 200A cable, thinking, I have at least 100A in breakers just for the outlets.  Get cable, enough conduit to completely cover the wire, pulled out the old wire, pushed the new wire through, re-connected on both sides, reconnected all the breakers, and done.  We have our hot water, stove, and dryer working again.  In addition, the wiring was now up to code, the code violation being the source of the original problem.  "Call an electrician" they said, when I can do a better job myself at 10% of the cost.  HA!  Did-It-mYself!

New wire, not fully connected, in brand new conduit...  the lighter, L-shaped conduit under the skirt, going up into the breaker box is visible, that was the only conduit present before the repair.  Gaps in the conduit were sealed with FiberFix.

I want to add a few things.  200A cable is NOT easy to work with...  it is a little like bending rebar.  I used my tubing cutter to strip the insulation...  and a hacksaw to trim the ends.  Second, this repair is not for the "home handyman", you really need to know what you are doing with electricity and wiring, 240v will travel right up the wooden handle of a shovel.  Also, as I said, this is work that is supposed to be done by a licensed electrician or contractor, to "code", so unless you feel competent either fulfilling or violating said code, let someone more competent do such work.  Another issue is grounding, if you mess with your service entrance cable, you ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY need to make sure that the ground at the meter is solid.  Faulty ground at your meter means faulty ground in every single outlet in your home, a shock hazard, a fire hazard, and potential death to all your electronics that rely on it.

I hope this helps someone.


How to locate hornet nest? I live in semi-detached house and since some time I have encountered some wasps in my bedroom. It is placed on 1st floor (house has 2.5 floors) and I have encountered them only at night/late evening. I haven't seen nest yet, but I think that it has to be somewhere near (as it needs to see the light or something that attracts them only at night).

What is the easiest way to locate where the nest is that I can call service to remove it from my neighbourhood?

I suggest you look around the perimeter of the house paying special attention to areas where the foundation meets the sill.

Those nasty wasps or hornets will find a way in a small crack or joint of the sill and build nests under the floor joists, especially if you have ceilings in the basement level.  They will also get into the attic under an eave or vent.  During the day you will see them coming in and out if you watch carefully.

I encountered a massive nest in a flip house I was working on. Every morning there were a couple of dozen wasps flying around the kitchen and living room.  They were actually entering the living space around heat pipes in the floor and around wall electrical outlets. (If they were in the attic, they could enter the house through light fixtures.)  I used a stethoscope on the floor to track down the nest, hands and knees crawling across the floor, listening for the "BUZZ". After I isolated the area they were in, it took me days and multiple attacks of grenade type bombs (6 or 8) into the cavity between the ceiling and first floor and several cans (10) of foaming wasp spray shot directly into the outdoor entry point to finally get rid of them.

The piles of dead wasps just outside the entry point got bigger every day.  Thousands of them.  I eventually sprayed insulation foam in the entry point, sealed it and that seemed to end the problem.  Not sure if your infestation can be DIY treated, but if you look around, I bet you can find where they are coming and going in your house.


How do I unclog my bath tub drain? Our tub drain was clogged. We have used Drano (liquid and granular) unsuccessfully. We have used a snake-didn't work. Noticed there is a hardened substance that you can scrape. ?? Accumulation of chemicals we used? Not sure.
What do we do now? Trying to avoid a plumber which will cost $$$
Thanks,
Denise

As mentioned by Ecnerwal removing the over flow cap is the easiest way to snake a tub. Most 1/4 inch auger drain snakes have a 25 foot cable. If just the tub is not draining and the sink in the same room is draining correctly that tells you the clog is not to far in the tub drain (since both drains connect to a main drain pipe).
Snaking to clear a blockage in a pipe takes acute sensory perception. Knowing if the snake stopped advancing because of a fitting or the clog is a skill.
Try the snake again through the over flow drain. Extend the cable the full length. When you meet resistance ream the snake back and forth several times. When you retract the cable note what (if anything) is stuck on the auger tip.
When executed properly there will be a noted increase in (or complete) draining. You may need to re-snake several times depending on the type of blockage. Once it is cleared run hot water for a few minutes to remove residual clog and caustic drain opener. You must be careful when working with water that has chemicals from a drain opener still dissolved in it. Don't let the snake splash any water on your skin or face.


Can I have multiple outside LED strip lights coming from one driver? I'm in the process of buying LED strip lights and understand that I need a 'driver' (to convert from 240v to [whatever the strip lights are]).

I intend to have three strip lights, one for each step outside, so do I need three drivers or can one driver do all three?

If your strips are intended for "12VDC" then they require a constant voltage supply. This is the usual arrangement for strips. In this case:

check how much current each strip will use
multiply by the number of strips
get a 12VDC supply with more amps than what you need, like a wall wart or a "led driver" specified to output 12V (which is not really a driver in this case, since it is a constant voltage supply) .
wire all the strips in parallel

If your strips are not specified for 12V but instead should be driven by constant current then you will need a constant current driver per strip. This would be uncommon.