Upgrading apartment: GFCI/AFCI breakers and wires I'm making plans to replace electrical wiring (new wires) and breaker in my apartment. I live in New York city (for code purposes).
My breakers are rated as 20 A, NOT GFCI/AFCI.
I have some outlets in the living area that are GFCI.
I read that in wet areas (kitchen/bath) it is required to have GFCI/AFCI outlets. I also read that stacking GFCI/AFCI protection is not safer, and some would leave them stacked with breaker, some would replace them with regular (non GFCI/AFCI) outlets.

PS: doing it with a certified electrician, of course! But I want to be informed, so here are my questions:

Upgrading the current breaker with AFCI/GFCI breaker is the way to go, correct? I don't see a reason to not upgrade it. Is there a situation where it is not recommended?
Is there any recent technology I should consider during this upgrade? I read a little about smart power monitor that is installed in the breaker.
Considering the breakers will be converted to dual (GFCI + AFCI) protection, do I still need GFCI/AFCI outlets in wet areas? I would say no because everything is already covered by the breaker, but maybe the code still requires it for some reason.
Considering the breakers will be converted to dual (GFCI + AFCI) protection, would it be OK to leave one or two GFCI/AFCI outlets in place, or it is recommended to replace them with regular outlets since breaker will already be GFCI/AFCI?
My conduits are narrow (old). I rewired two places already. A solid wire is very hard to pass. A stranded is much easier. Would it be OK to use stranded in the whole apartment (living, kitchen, bath, etc.)?
I will try to organize the breakers. Currently there is one breaker switching off lights and outlets in different (nearby) areas, I'd like to separate to have better control. Also, one dedicated breaker for the air conditioner. In case a conduit doesn't exit, is NM-B (Romex) cable an acceptable solution here? It seems to me it would require less work to install than a conduit.
If I want to create new outlets in the bathroom (small bathroom), what would be the recommended procedure: break the wall and use NM-B cable? break the wall and install conduit? not break the wall and just use a wire cover with a waterproof cable like NM-B? This would be for a new outlet near the sink (shaving, etc.) and near the toilet for future electric bidet installation.
Looking up online, I only find THHN stranded. I could not find THWN stranded wires. Why? It seems manufacturers might be using THHN even though they are also waterproof.

Thanks for helping!

AFCI vs GFCI

You're using AFCI/GFCI interchangeably like they're "Thing 1 I don't know what is", and "thing 2 I don't know what is".  Actually, they are not similar.

AFCI protects wiring in the wall from starting fires (and to a far lesser extent, appliance cords).  That may or may not be warranted depending on your wiring, and the scope of your permit/work.
GFCI protects humans from shock.  It needs to protect appliances that plug in anywhere water could be found, and wires that might get wet.

If you saw all the flooding in Houston where the first floor of buildings was flooded out and people were on the 2nd floor with the power on and A/C running, that's because the overhead service drop and panel are on the 2nd floor, and all the 1st floor circuits are on GFCI (and tripped obviously).  Because those places were built to flood.

Scope of AFCI/GFCI

Now in NYC it's common for them to require metal conduit (typically EMT) for all wiring.  Metal conduit is not the use-case for AFCI. Code recognizes this to a limited degree; normally AFCI must be at the service panel, but if it's metal conduit, the AFCI protection can be at the first outlet.  ACFI receps are half the price, probably because there's more room in a recep; flipside is AFCI receps are huge, and that can sometimes be a problem with metal boxes.

Any AFCI device has LOAD terminals and it can protect any downline wiring (and outlets) connected to those LOAD terminals.  Since 90% of the goal of AFCI is to protect wiring, you need to do that, or it would defeat the entire purpose!  If AFCI is mandatory, that is mandatory.  (What NOT to do: have an AFCI recep at every recep outlet).

GFCI devices also have that LOAD feature.  However lots of people don't use it, and that's fine unless the wires themselves have a chance of being flooded or subject to groundwater action (e.g. wiring to a boat dock).  But hey, the feature is free.

Since you are wiring a kitchen, really make a point to have the refrigerator be not on a GFCI or AFCI if avoidable.  Refrigerators are simply not a use-case for GFCI devices.  As far as AFCI, they contribute little when the refrigerator recep is wired in metal conduit.

Questions

  Upgrading the current breaker with AFCI/GFCI breaker is the way to go, correct? I don't see a reason to not upgrade it. Is there a situation where it is not recommended?

Refrigerators and other safety equipment.  Keep in mind these are safety devices (fault detectors) and they will trip if a fault is present.  That seems better now, but it will seem worse when they start tripping due to a fault.

  Is there any recent technology I should consider during this upgrade? I read a little about smart power monitor that is installed in the breaker.

Whole house surge suppressors will become Code when your locality adopts NEC 2020.  The simplest occupy 2 spaces in the panel, except that being in NYC you will probably need the far rarer 3-phase unit which takes 3 spaces.  Electrical upgrades take a lot of spaces.  Get a huge panel to suit - 42 spaces is NOT excessive.

  Considering the breakers will be converted to dual (GFCI + AFCI) protection, would it be OK to leave one or two GFCI/AFCI outlets in place, or it is recommended to replace them with regular outlets since breaker will already be GFCI/AFCI?

Don't need them. They will be redundant to the point of annoyance - you will need to reset them in a particular sequence.

  My conduits are narrow (old). I rewired two places already. A solid wire is very hard to pass. A stranded is much easier. Would it be OK to use stranded in the whole apartment (living, kitchen, bath, etc.)?

99% of my work is in conduit. Solid is a nightmare. I own only stranded #12 wire and I use it for all 15-20A circuits. However, stranded is not allowed in backstabs, and attaching it to screw terminals without it birdcaging is a fine art.  Best to either get the $3 screw-to-clamp receps, or pigtail your receps and switches with bits of solid wire (which I gather you have plenty of).

  I will try to organize the breakers. Currently there is one breaker switching off lights and outlets in different (nearby) areas, I'd like to separate to have better control.

Try to have the lights and receps for a given room be on different circuits.  That way you aren't plunged into the dark when a breaker trips.

  If I want to create new outlets in the bathroom (small bathroom), what would be the recommended procedure: break the wall and use NM-B cable? break the wall and install conduit? not break the wall and just use a wire cover with a waterproof cable like NM-B?

NM-B is not waterproof (where did you get that idea!?) It fails quickly when wet.  Whether you are allowed to use cable wiring methods is decided by your local Electrical Codes.

Rule of thumb: If all the wiring in the facility is in conduit, Code requires that. People don't put in conduit for their health.

  Looking up online, I only find THHN stranded. I could not find THWN stranded wires. Why?

95% of the THHN wire out there is cross-listed both THHN and THWN-2, and meets both standards at the same time.


HVAC Drain Pipe Broken inside Wall Can I get to the drain pipe through the drywall inside the house?

When attempting to dissemble my exterior drain pipe (lower main pipe), I broke something inside the wall and subsequently there is water leaking inside of the wall.  Can I get to the pipe and fix it though the interior dry wall or do I have to cut open the wall from the outside?

Thanks,

Anacrusis

Generally, interior drywall is easier to repair than exterior wall treatments. You haven't stated what your wall is made of, in my area the norm is stucco over lath and paper; much more difficult to repair properly.

I recommend an initial exploratory opening of the interior wall to assess damage and prospects for access and repair that way.


Will a non functional blower keep a gas dryer from heating? Gas dryer quit heating a few days ago.  Took the back off and tested all of the thermostats all good.  The ignition system seems to be working too but haven't gone fully down that road.

DOH!

I see a spindle that screws on the top of my blower and a seemingly brand new looking blower belt...  Sitting on the floor of my dryer.  So I am going to put the belt on (chime in if you know how).

Would the blower not running cause something to shut the heat off?

Kenmore Elite 11077032601.  And the manual sucks so don't need links to that.

Yes.  Without the blower running, the dryer will overheat and shutdown.  Some models may not even fire if the blower is not running, since they may rely on the blower for exhaust flow.


What is the best way to secure (2x6) wood framing to the concrete portion of the garage opening? I live in a raised ranch. The lower half of the house is divided into a 2 car garage and a living area.
Also the lower half of the house has 8 ft. ceiling (about 4 ft. concrete walls and 4 ft. wood walls).
The wood framing (2x6) on each side of the garage doors are warped and separating from the concrete portion of the
garage walls. When standing in the drive way, a noticable gap exist between the concrete portion of the
garage opening and the (2x6) wood framing. I want to replace the (2x6) wood framing on each side of the garage opening.

What is the best way to secure (2x6) wood framing to the concrete portion of the garage opening?
Should I use pressure treated wood?

Yes, use pressure treated wood. There would often be anchor bolts cast into the wall to hold the 2x6s, these can be reused. Sometimes powder actuated fasteners are used. Besides needing a special tool to install these, they often do not penetrate well into old, well cured concrete.

You can install new expansion anchors by drilling holes with a hammer drill. Whichever method, back it up by using construction adhesive to limit future warpage.


Wiring a pull chain pendant light fixture How to add a cord to this fixture?

I want to wire the white wire to the pull chain pendant light fixture.

White wire - which is ground which is hot?

The cord:

Very confusing,where do I start and what do I do?

The switch is supposed to be in the hot wire, and in your lamp the black goes to and from the switch. In the house wiring the hot wire is the one with the black insulation, the neutral has white insulation and the ground is often bare, but may be green insulation.

In your lamp base the black goes through the switch and was at one time connected to four smaller  black wires, but the connection has been broken. If you want to connect a flat polarized grounded cord to this lamp, know that the center wire in the cord is the ground (connect to the bare wire in the fixture and, of the two outside wires, the smooth one is the hot (connect to black of light fixture) and the ribbed one is the neutral (connect to white of light fixture).

EDIT

If you want to do this, you would have to attach the fixture to an electrical box (e.g., a pancake box) which would be surface mounted where you want the lamp. The cord would come out a hole in the back or side of the box and the cord would have to have a "strain relief" on it. metal pancake box

But for all the trouble you'd have to go through (and some expense) to repair and adapt this fixture, it would be better to just buy a new fixture that is designed to do what you want.


Can I put an outlet inside of a wall? I want to mount a tablet to a wall with a charger but I don't want the charger to be visible. Can I put a normal wall outlet in the INSIDE of the wall and just plug in the charger inside the wall?

Location is Wisconsin, USA.

No. Section 314.29 of the National Electrical Code (adopted in some form in most localities in the US) requires that all outlet boxes be accessible without removing any part of the building or structure.  That includes wallboard.

You could build a recessed section in the wall that has an easily removed front panel.  You could install an outlet in that section, plug in the charger and then run the charging cable through a hole in that panel.

If the tablet uses a standard USB charger, you can now get outlets that have the charger built in.  Then you just need to plug the low voltage USB cable into the outlet and into the tablet.

 Images and links are illustrative only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Removing ceiling fan remote Two ceiling fans I brought from Costco with remote has been giving me troubles within a few months of use. Every time I turn off the wall switch the lights would flicker but the fan won't operate. For the first one I hired an electrician to come by and fix the non working remote/receiver unit. He said ceiling fan remotes are have problems. Does anyone know how I can remove the remote completely from my ceiling fan. I'm afraid which wires need to be paired based on the wires I see up there. Picture attached.

I had a similar issue with a Hunter brand ceiling fan. Shortly after I replaced the wall switch that physically fell apart and caused some arcing on the line, the fan would run and then stop. The amount of time it ran before stopping grew shorter & shorter, until it just wouldn't run at all.

Assuming there is a light on the remote (transmitter) that blinks when you hit a key, there is nothing wrong with the remote. Luckily it was within the one-year warranty for electronic parts and I still had my receipt. So, when I called the manufacturer (not retailer), they sent me a new speed controller for free. It would be worth it to purchase the new controller if it is not within warranty, my would have been $50 and looks just like yours.


What are our options for a base under a raised garden bed? In the backyard we currently have a small patio and a lot of lawn. We also have a toolshed, which seems to be sinking into the earth because there's no real foundation underneath it. We want to invest in some raised garden beds (bad knees and backs), something like this: https://eartheasy.com/deer-proof-cedar-complete-raised-garden-bed-kit-8-x-8-x-20/?sku=RB88-RB88DFO&gclid=CjwKCAiApNSABhAlEiwANuR9YHSoWLHjbkeiPow1wNVkBvU_oCism43bHMf0NSPmY8Rp3rDrWToCbxoCzTAQAvD_BwE
What should we put underneath it in order to prevent it from sinking into the earth or otherwise being damaged? Cement? Dig out some of the lawn and put in woodchips?
(Let me know if this belongs on gardening instead, I'm not sure)

Unless your soil is extremely sandy and wet you won't have to take precautions to prevent the garden beds from sinking. I would imagine the tool shed sinking due to the extra weight and foot traffic it endures regularly.
If you feel it necessary to take steps to keep the raised beds stable you can:
-level the beds by excavating under the high corners. This will keep the corner from moving.
-In addition with the excavating pound wooden stakes made from redwood or cedar at each corner. Leave 6-8 inches above ground and screw that section to the bed.
-This idea will help in 2 ways: attach 1/2 inch hardware cloth to the entire bottom of the bed. This will not only provide alot of surface area (drag/friction), but will prevent gophers and other burrowing critters from entering the bed.


What could explain a large hole above water heater vent pipe? An inspector found the following anomaly during home inspection on a home built in 2007.

When homeowner was queried about the cause, he said it came like that when it was built (homeowner is the original owner).

Personally, I doubt a homeowner would buy a new home in that condition. Assuming that the new home was not purchased in that condition, what would cause such a hole over the water heater where the vent pipe enters the ceiling (aside from someone vandalizing the home or falling through the ceiling)?

I could understand a hole under a water heater if it were on the second floor and leaked. But, what about a hole above a water heater located on the first floor in the garage?

It looks pretty obvious to me. Whoever installed the water heater vent intentionally scored the drywall to make a hole for the vent to pass through. I can see the square cut made by a utility knife and they used a hammer to break out the drywall. Then whoever installed the vent did not finish the job by repairing the drywall keeping proper clearances etc.  It is just a sloppy job.


No AC. I have a few HVAC troubleshooting questions I'm having issues with my AC. Basically, the symptom is that I feel cold air coming out of the vent, but it has no pressure, almost like I have to put my hand IN THE VENT COVER to feel any cold air. To me, it seems like the blower is not blowing any air, or it's clogged somewhere in the process and it is blowing.

Just some background... I just moved into this house, so I don't know too much history of the AC here. We haven't really tried it yet because the weather just got hot.

It's a central unit with the compressor/condenser outside.

I found the filter inside was extremely dirty, probably due to all the remodeling we did here. I will replace that. (Note: as of this question writing, I have not tried the AC with a new filter yet).

My thermostat is new (On a side note in case of relevance, the previous thermostat did utilize the B wire. I did some research and this is a common wire, the new Honeywell thermostat does NOT have a slot for it, and the instructions state to tape it up and move it out of the way).

Continuing on in my troubleshooting, I have identified the Condenser coils are extremely dirty with weeds and grass. I have also identified the blower fan is full of dirt and dust.

I have a few questions which would really help me in continuing troubleshooting.

1) Can the condenser fins be washed with a garden hose after sprayed down with condenser cleaner? I have read different opinions online regarding this matter (I have seen some units where the fins/coils seem to come off the unit, and others where people spray the unit with them attached). I don't know what kind I have. It seems kind of sketch to wash the unit with a hose when there is electrical components inside. I'm a huge fan of the shop vac in case I can use that on the fins, as well.

2) Here is a picture of my blower fan. Can I take my shop vac/compressed air to this bad boy without damaging it? I don't know a lot about HVAC, brand new to all this. I am asking so I don't damage it further.

EDIT (Removed the pics to my dirty blower, thanks for the answer).

06/23 EDIT:

@Ryan Smith -- I looked up the Model number I found on the evaporator box above the furnace.

While I didn't find an exact match, I found the newest models have only 4 screws holding the cover on.

Newest model:

http://www.adpnow.com/wp-content/themes/adp/flash/circles/hahe-2.jpg

Here is my setup:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x6mg3q3sd9qiikn/Photo%20Jun%2023%2C%2011%2029%2016%20AM.jpg?dl=0

As you can see, I have some kind of tape covering my cover screws.

Looks like my top line can just pull out (Looks like a fit plug that pops out), and the bottom unscrewed... and I can check out how clean/dirty the evaporator coils are.

I don't know how (And don't have the tools) to do a test from the supply side, but I think there's still a benefit in being able to take this box off in that I can clean the coils off. Agreed?

Also, you told me to check out my ducting in the crawl space (I have a ranch style, so nothing HVAC in the attic) for leaks. I didn't even have to go that far. There's a hole in the duct right above the evaporator box. I posted a pic of it in a comment below.

Based on what I've seen so far, I'm not going to be surprised if the rest of the duct has holes all through-out... plus dirty evaporation coils.

Thanks for the help.

You had (maybe sub-optimal) working air, so the holes (unless new) are probably not the primary cause.  I imagine your evaporator coil (the coil inside the interior air handling unit) has frozen over.

This typically happens when the airflow over it is restricted, but it can happen when the refrigerant has leaked out of the system.  Air restriction prevents warm air from heating the coil, which will eventually freeze the humidity out of the air creating an insulating block of ice.  Low refrigerant levels super cool the coil creating the same freezing over.

So, replace (or temporarily remove) the dirty air filter.  Open all the vents.  Turn your AC off for a long enough period of time to melt the ice (typically 4 to 5 hours, but sometimes less).  Then turn the unit on.  If airflow is restored, you know the symptom of your problem.

If you don't freeze up again, it was likely an airflow problem you just fixed with the new air filter and by opening the vents.  Occasionally the interior fan is not turning on, so opening the interior unit is a good idea for visual inspection.

If air handling seems fine and it freezes up again, call a professional to find the leak in your system, have the leak repaired and then get your system recharged with refrigerant.  Many pros like to charge the system and run; but, refrigerant doesn't degrade or get "used up".  If you're low, there's a leak.  Get them to find and fix it now or risk calls and extra strain on your system (which could shorten the life of your system).

Opening the unit involves removing the tape around the panel (it is typically metal duct work tape, so use gloves to avoid cutting your hands).  The tape only seals the unit for air tightness.  There are screws on the panel.  When done, re-tape with metal tape for air tightness.

Keep in mind that the root cause is sometimes electrical.  If so, you'll notice the interior fan not is not turning on.  There are additional circuit breakers on the air handling unit, as well as the possibility of burnt out control circuitry, corroded / disconnected wiring, etc.  It is a good idea to turn the breakers off and on just to assure it's not the cause.

I'd fix the duct work, but to save you money on your AC bill, it's not a likely root cause.


What are these small things on my laundry room wall? I'd like to install a floating shelf here. I guess I should remove these. But I want to understand what these small things are and make sure I won't regret removing them.

If those are between 1/4" and 3/8" in diameter, they're old plastic drywall anchors.

If your shelf covers them, don't worry at all. If they're visible, slice the flange off with a knife or chisel, push the remaining plastic into the wall cavity and spackle to fix.
If nothing else, these will tell you where your stud isn't. (And you'll really need to know that to get a secure floating shelf up.)


Where can I buy a long bit for lag bolt pilot? I'm trying to drill pilot holes for 5/16" x 3.5" lag bolts. Based on charts like this one I need a 9/64" hole that is 3.5" deep. Looking around the Internet (always a mistake), the best I can find is a 9/64" x 6" "aircraft extension" bit. Home Depot can get them in two weeks. My local hardware store doesn't have it all. So:

Am I looking for the right bit (9/64 x 3.5)?
What is an "aircraft extension"?
Should this bit be hard to find?
I need to drill 6 holes into redwood. Should I expect to break a bit or two?

Thank you!

One of those "aircraft bits" should work fine for you. Just because the bit is 6" long doesn't mean you have to actually "use" all six inches. You should be able to find quality bits from multiple sources on the internet. (Maybe not Amazon...) You might find some locally at professional-level tool vendors if not at the BigBox stores. (A little help)

I wouldn't expect to break any bits, but I suppose it could happen. Everybody has bad days. Since you may not be able to jump in the car and pick up another one, you might order an extra. (Maybe if you don't use it you could send it back.)

Aircraft extension bits get their name from their use primarily in the aircraft industry in the years coming up to WWII.

  Aircraft drill bits are long drill bits originally designed for use in the aircraft industry where they often need to drill holes reaching through deep cavities, and then through thin materials. Here's more about them.

The pilot hole size you'll want will be something like 9/64" or 3∕16" depending on the hardness and moisture content of the wood you're drilling into. Both of these factors can affect the fit of the screws in the pilot holes. Here's a write-up that goes into more detail about it.

I'd do a test or two starting out with the smaller diameter bit and make the hole  larger if it proves to be too snug to drive the screw easily. It's always easier to make the holes bigger than it is to make them smaller.

Another idea: There are self-drilling lag screws manufactured to not need pilot holes. They tend to be more expensive, but from what I understand they are roughly structurally equivalent. I've used these, Spax 5/16 x 6"  on a couple of projects with satisfying results. This may be an alternative for you, maybe not.


Do I need a moisture barrier outside my garage wall insulation? I want to insulate my garage and drywall it , The outside walls are bare brick with 2by 4 studded walls on the inside do I have to put a plastic barrier up before I use batted insulation to keep mositure away from the batting

Placement of vapor barrier depends on location.

In cold climate you place it on the inside before insulation.  So from the inside out, the layers are typically drywall, poly, insulation, sheathing, water resistive barrier (house wrap), rain screen, cladding.


Dryer Takes Too Long, Cleaned out Vent. What next? We just cleaned out the dryer vent with a leaf blower like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dO9Y5j1uhqk

Unfortunately it still takes over 2 runs to dry a load.  Before we did this, however, we disconnected the tube from the wall and let the tube exhaust into the laundry room (it gets very hot and humid!), and the load was perfectly dry after about 45 min.  So, it seems the problem is indeed in the tubing in the walls.

Any thoughts on what to do next?

If you did everything Jim did & got the same dump & blow-out, then that was an improvement. But, that method doesn't scrub or peel anything off. It just makes a small hole in the center to leave the built-up sides to collapse & fall inward to clog up again. Keep trying the blower periodically & shake & pound on the pipe wherever you can. Otherwise, use a vacuum at both ends or a vacuum in conjunction of an extendable dryer vent brush.


How can I keep a bedroom warmer in summer? The master bedroom in my parent's house tends to be the coolest room in the house, and my father complains it's too cold.  The A/C register in the ceiling does have a flow adjustment lever, but it's difficult for my 80-year-old dad to reach and adjust.  I tried to attach a pull wire, but the lever is just a slightly bent strip of metal, and I can't manage to tie anything to it securely enough to be usable.

Does anybody make a register that's easier for the elderly to adjust?  Where can I find it?  A register with a built-in thermostat might work, too.  Is there such a thing?

Or does someone have another idea about keeping the room from getting too cold (without the rest of the house becoming too hot)?

They do make thermostat controlled vent covers, this particular one is ~$60.

I'm not sure how difficult it is to install one of these (as I've never done it myself), but it sounds like this is exactly the type of thing you are looking for.

This is not a recommendation for this product, simply an example to show that they do exist.


How can I repair rusty tools? Should I use sandpaper to clean the rust from the tools (e.g. Needle-nose pliers), or can I soak them in vinegar or lemon juice?

Would I be better off just buying new tools (which can be an expensive choice for expensive tools)?

While I don't use hand tools much, I certainly own a lot of hand tools. This happens when you sell them all day. Norm Abram at This Old House provides some pretty good tips on cleaning rust from tools.

His tips, summarized:

First, store tools in a dry drawer or toolbox. Use silica gel packets to keep this place even more dry.

But once rust appears...

Spray with a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40 and scrub with a heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad. Abram is very clear that you should NOT use sandpaper, as it tends to scratch metal.

For seriously rusted tools...

"For more heavily rusted metal, try a spray-on, wipe-off, acid-based rust remover like Rust Free. Follow with a rust-inhibitor spray like Boeshield T-9, which leaves a thin, waxy film on the surface. Wipe away any excess immediately."

Klein makes an excellent guide that covers nearly all hand tools they sell. Check out the free, downloadable PDF "Proper use and care of Hand Tools" available here.


Which should I use on a propane line? I need to connect 5 gallon propane tank line to burner line on hotdog cart ... what should I use on thread ?Plummers Paste , Plummers dope , or Teflon tape ? (Male to female)

If you are using the standard propane fittings and adapters, nothing else should be needed.  Not tape, dope, paste, nor putty.


How to run single ethernet (no PoE) in trench through garden? I've never buried a cable before, or even run a conduit in a wall/floorspace, so this is all new to me.

I've dug half the trench across the garden so far. It's only 6" deep in some places as below that I found bedrock. 6" should be fine for this application, I think? But... a few metres of the trench goes under a gravel driveway though, and that's one of the spots where I've found bedrock. Still fine?

I've bought a cat7 SSTP direct bury cable (overkill, I know), but would like to further protect it with a pipe/conduit of some sort. Both from rodents and gravel but also from the compressive force of cars driving over it. Maybe I should lay the conduit in some sand before topping with gravel?

What should I be using, and how careful do I need to be about bends etc if I want to be able to re-run a new cable in the future?

My current plan is just to go to B&Q and see what general-purpose PVC piping they have, but I imagine there's better kit for the job...

Thank you!

edit: the underground run is only about 20m (no, I don't want to use wifi, I'd prefer a cable), and there is a mobile phone mast 200m away about 50m higher up the hillside.  I think this probably means that I don't need to worry about lightning strikes too much.  Would you still add protection at either end of the cable (it's just running from the main house router to an access point in the outhouse).

The tower up the hill might take direct strikes before you, but those strikes might make big surges on the ground, so long story short, always use surge protection (or better, all dielectric fiber).

You don't necessarily have to meet the code requirements for electrical installations with your direct buried ethernet cable and I wouldn't worry too much about 6" of burial except under a gravel driveway.  I don't think that will survive long.  I don't think PVC will help much, I'd sleeve it in galvanized rigid metallic conduit across the driveway and hope for the best.  (I am assuming this is just for home networking etc. and isn't anything life and death.)


Options for a small, single room AC with no windows, no drainage possibilities, and not water vapor based There is a room in our apartment which we use as an office that is always 10 to 20 degrees warmer than the rest of the house. The apartment is cooled using a standard central AC, however the room in question does not have a vent on that AC. I think the reason for this is it likely was previously part of the adjacent bedroom, which is separated by a thin, non-load bearing wall.

Because I use this room frequently, I'd like to add a small single room or portable AC unit inside of it. Here are the constraints that I have to work with:

The room does not have any windows, and cutting a hole through the wall to use to drain an AC unit is not an option
I cannot cut any holes through the wall into the adjacent bedroom
I think water evaporation based AC units are out of the question since it would not only counteract the central AC that does work brilliantly in the other rooms, but also the office contains a lot of expensive electronics that I'd rather not damage with water
Adding a vent in this room to the central AC isn't an option

If that doesn't eliminate all types of feasible AC units, it at least seems to eliminate the bulk majority of them. I've been unable to find an AC unit that could work in this type of situation. Maybe part of that is because without drainage or water vapor, I'm not sure how one would work. I guess if there was a type of unit that drained into a bucket, that would work. Does such a thing exist, or does anyone have any brilliant insight in terms of ideas?

Congratulations - you have eliminated all the ways this might actually work.

Either deal with it being hotter, or add a few options that you say are "not an option" with the most logical one being a connection to the central A/C.

With a bucket, you could go with 50 pounds of ice, a fan blowing over it and a bucket for it to drain into as it melts. That will get you 7,200, perhaps 8,200 BTUs before you need to get another 50 lbs of ice...or the equivalent of about an hour's run time for a medium window A/C. Not very practical without a large supply of ice and labor to carry ice and buckets of water.


should I replace slightly broken iron toilet flange or switch to new ABS I'm replacing the sub-flooring and will be tiling. I know that the toilet flange will be low, and it is chipped on one side where the toilet bolts go. I see two options (there could be more...):

leave it alone and once the tile is complete, get a repair plate and build up to correct height.
since there is a stainless sleeve easy to access, replace the complete section and set to correct height before buttoning up the floor

Is there an obvious answer here? I don't see a problem leaving it alone, but I don't want to regret it! Here is a picture:

thx

Option 2, definitely.

Height issues aside, a damaged flange gives a high risk of loose toilet syndrome, which turns into leaky toilet syndrome, which turns into angry spouse syndrome when you have to re-tile.


AFCI keeps tripping after power outage The power in my house just went out for maybe 15-30 seconds.  When the power came back on, one of my AFCI breakers was tripped.  Thing is, I can't get it to stay back on.  Every time I turn it back on, it trips after about 45 seconds.  I went upstairs and unplugged everything from the outlets in the bedroom and turned off the switches, but it keeps on happening.  I tested the circuit with the test button and it worked, but the breaker keeps tripping.  Any idea what could be going on?

EDIT Added picture of breaker

Solved

Well it's what I expected - the breaker was bad.  Hooked up the circuit that was on it to another AFCI in the panel and it worked fine.  Hooked up a good circuit to the bad breaker and it still tripped.  POS AFCI breakers...

If you've disconnected everything from the circuit there are only two causes I can think of - either the breaker is bad, or there is a legitimate arc occurring and the breaker is doing its job and possibly preventing a fire.

If you are comfortable opening your breaker panel, you could try replacing the breaker with a new breaker.  If it still trips, I think that's a pretty definitive sign that there is an arc occurring. At this point, you probably want to call a licensed electrician to come diagnose and solve the issue.  It could be a bad connection or a damaged wire.


Should I finish staining my half-stained deck with rain coming? We were supposed to have two weeks of perfect weather conditions so I started the process of staining my deck, I cleaned it, sanded it and yesterday applied the first coat to half of it.

Now the weather has changed and the forecast is 70% chances of 5mm of rain that are going to fall two days from now and then so far it seems it's going to be intermittent between rain and sunny.

How should I proceed?

Should I apply the first coat on the second half and the second coat on the first half 48 hours before the rain and then leave it until the rainy days are over before applying the second coat on the second half?
Should I apply the second coat on the second half even though it will be the afternoon before the rainy day?
Should I not do anything and leave the recently sanded deck to get wet and then wait for the rainy days to stop?

I must add that it is very possible that after the rainy days the really hot weather might begin.

Please advise.

We're thinking of staining our four year old deck soon, and my only credentials are that we've thought about this scenario.

If I were you, I would go ahead and apply the first coat to the remainder of your deck, basically ensuring that all surfaces are evenly covered. If it does rain and screw up everything, at least the screw-up will be consistent.

I realize humidity will be an issue, but are you planning on covering the deck while it's raining? Cover it when raining, let it dry up when sunny.


Is this crack between bricks a concern? I just noticed this crack that has formed along an exterior window. Does this seem like something that needs repair, or just some caulking?

I noticed that for some reason the bricks were not alternated in direction along this window like all of the other windows around my house (see second picture). This is the only issue I see with cracks in the bricks.

Looks like the mortar joint cracked, so what I would do would is remove a couple of those bricks, look closely and see if there's anything suspicious behind them.

You also might want to invite any person you might know who works in the masonry field.
And of course, if you don't know anyone, then youu might call for a free estimate regarding what's up with it. ( Having bricks removed allievates the free estimate from saying " I dunno, we're gonna have to remove a couple of bricks to see what happened behind there."

I would  believe any masonry contractor would want to look behind there as well.

If this is nothing more than a weak mortar joint, you might want to tackle this yourself with a product called Sika Bond, which is a mortar colored masonry construction adhesive
( comes in a caulking gun tube ) which is super strong. And will bond any type masonry.

Sika Bond can be found at both Lowe's and Home Depot.

Good luck


Extend radial circuit with new socket - diagram Similar to this question (Can I use Wago connectors to extend a ring main?)

I am planning on using Wago connectors & boxes to add a new socket, however I don't know if my circuit is a ring main or radial circuit.
It's on a 20A mcb and 2.5mm twin & earth cabling.
This breaker is marked as "Upstairs sockets" and there are just 3 sockets upstairs.

Does it make a difference if I am extending and provided I'm not extending off a spur? (I will be extending from the cable in the ceiling, not from another socket)

Plagiarising the diagram from the linked question, am I correct with this being the circuit in a radial (very similar to if it is ring in linked question)

Existing Circuit:

                         +---------+
     L                   |         |
    +--------------------+  |   |  +-----------+
    |                    | - - - - |           |
    |                    |         |           |
+---+---------+          +---------+           |
|             |                                |
|  Consumer   |                                |
|  Unit       |                                |
|             |                                |
|             |                                |
+---+---------+          +---------+           |
                         |         |           |
                         +  |   |  +-----------+
                         | - - - - |
                         |         |
                         +---------+

New Circuit:

                         +---------+           +-----------+
     L                   |         |           |           |
    +--------------------+  |   |  +-----------+  Wagobox  +--------+
    |                    | - - - - |           +-----------+        |
    |                    |         |                           +----+----+
+---+---------+          +---------+                           |         |
|             |                                                |  |   |  |
|  Consumer   |                                                | - - - - |
|  Unit       |                                                |         |
|             |                                                +----+----+
|             |                                                     |
+---+---------+          +---------+           +-----------+        |
                         |         |           |           |        |
                         +  |   |  +-----------+  Wagobox  +--------+
                         | - - - - |           +-----------+
                         |         |
                         +---------+

So if it's a ring circuit the only difference is that there is a cable going back to the consumer unit from the last socket?

Thanks

It's a radial as
(a) it does not return in a ring to the consumer unit
(b) it's 20A on 2.5mm cable. A ring would be 32A on 2.5mm cable. A radial circuit at 32A would have to be in 4mm cable. Except for pyro cable which is completely different

On a radial it doesn't matter if you 'spur' off a 'spur' as the circuit protection is sized for a single cable, provided you extend in the same size cable as the rest of the circuit.

The former standard circuit with 20A fuse or MCB protection with 2.5 mm² live and 1.5mm² protective conductors was allowed for a floor area of not more than 50 m². I think under 18th Edition IET regulations the floor area is now advisory.

You still have to consider disconnection timing and Zs if you are running long cables though.

Edit to add, following comments

This isn't a ring which needs to be "returned" and continued. On a radial circuit you can spur off any-old-how. There are no restrictions provided you use the same size cable throughout. The cable is fully protected by the supply circuit breaker.

In fact what you propose would increase the total circuit length by twice the distance which would be significantly less favourable than teeing off a single cable to feed the new socket(s), as well as having two junctions instead of one.

However, you should be sure whether it's a ring or a radial. If there is only one set of conductors at the MCB it cannot be a ring.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Testing_a_ring_circuit

On a radial circuit (2.5mm / 20A) you can tee off any-old-how. On a ring circuit (2.5mm / 32A) you can only spur off one single or double socket as an unfused spur.


Is plumber's putty or tape ok? I have a brass spigot connected to a PVC pipe near the pump of my saltwater pool.  There is a small leak and I was wondering if I can redo the connection using plumber's putty or tape.  Would either of these be defeated by the saltwater?

I'm not totally sure about salt water, but I don't think it poses any special problem.  I would give the threads 2 or 3 wraps, then also coat the female threads with pipe joint cement, not plumber's putty.  Save the plumber's putty for drains and escutcheons.


Installing Moen Flo with SharkBite. Is this bent copper, soft copper? I was planning on installing a Moen Flo on an exposed copper supply line using sharkbites, but the pipe was slightly bent to connect it to the branch line.
Can anyone tell if this is soft copper just from looking at this picture?

It's soft copper tubing. I have used it when replacing old pipes in two story building where access was extremely limited. I have seen SharkBite connectors used on soft copper but it has to be perfectly round... which is sometimes difficult. I'd be switching to hard copper before using SharkBites. Personally, I wouldn't be using SharkBites at all.


Reapplying spar varnish/urethane to exterior door I have a 'knotty alder' front door that was refinished by a contractor last August.  However, because the lower panel of the door has already deteriorated due to sun exposure, I decided to sand the existing spar/urethane for a smooth finish before applying 2 fresh coats.  However, after smoothing with a sanding block using 220 grit, there are several streaks where more of the urethane was sanded down due to unevenness of existing application (see photo).  I'm hoping that fresh coats of urethane will blend in and eliminate these streaks.  I plan to use a 320 grit sponge between the two coats.  Just hoping that my initial use of the 220 grit had not created a major problem!

Finally, I believe that I should wipe the sanded areas with mineral spirits before applying each coat of urethane.  How long should I wait before applying 2nd coat of urethane?

The streaks should disappear with the first new coat of urethane assuming you haven't sanded into the stain or surface of the wood. The wood is probably stained or has darkened due to sun exposure, and if you sanded into the wood it will need to be restained or given time to darken.

As far as recoat time, follow the instructions on the can. Typically you can recoat as soon as the first coat has lost its tackiness, but read the label to be safe.


Can you use an Orbit Sprinkler Timer with Rainbird Valve My house has Rainbird valves and I am thinking about buying an Orbit Timer/Controller.  Can you use a Rainbird valve with the Orbit Controller.

it should work. find out what kind of rainbird valves you have, then look online to see what their voltage/current requirements are. you have to match voltages between the timer, and the timer must provide at least as much current as the valve require.


how to stop metal hooks in ends of side rails of wooden bed from squeaking I have an all wooden bed with two wooden side rails that have metal hooks at the ends for hooking them into the connections inside the headboard/footboard. The bed squeaks badly. I've tried wedging thin cardboard pieces at the end of each side rail/bed frame connection, but they work loose and the bed starts squeaking again. Any ideas for a remedy?

You could try lithium grease, but paraffin wax is less messy ;)


Running heating pipe through beam under floorboard? I need to run central heating pipe horizontally under the floorboards of an upper floor. I need to go through only one 75mm wide beam, but I'm wary of boring or notching it, also because that would be quite close to the wall bearing the beam.
So I thought of running an 8mm or 10mm pipe immediately over the beam, by digging a small duct on the lower face of the 18mm floorboard resting on the beam.
I wanted to know if this makes sense, and how to prevent possible problems such as noises and pipe wear over time. Also: plastic or copper pipe?
Thanks!

Go through the centre of the joist with the hole.
This means any future nails from either side are less likely to puncture the pipe.
Also the stress on the joist is zero at the centreline. But a maximum at each edge.
And I have seen people run pipes and wires like you suggest - fine for them but later owners trying to reduce squeaks or moving boards then have nasty consequences...
I spent weeks trying to locate why a circuit breaker kept blowing. Eventually found a nail through a floorboard into a wire that went over a notched joist just like you plan. The names I called the person that did that - if I had met them at that moment...


Is there a way to change the location of HVAC air filter? We bought the house recently. Heating system was recently installed by the previous home owner. I cannot believe they did not think of this but the place for filter is inside the furnace. The problem is that there is a pvc pipe in the way. PVC is for condensation. I have to bend the filter from under the pvc pipe and then try and slide it. Also it does not slide easy at all. there are still some open areas which I can above the filter. Sometimes filter tears. It is such a pain every 3 months!! I did find that outside the furnace there is a flex duct its some sort of heavy fabric which is tapped to the duct system. I assume they use this in case duct system doesn't line up. Is there anyway I could have a filter location installed there? Or cut the duct system and install it somewhere in between?

Actually, the filter seems to be installed in the wrong location. It’s installed on the wrong side of the “air filter tray”.

If you look closely at the bottom of the filter, the metal plate just to the left of the filter, has a “J-shape” at the bottom. That “J-shape” is made to hold the filter vertically in position, so it doesn’t slip down and not cover the intake opening properly and is called the “air filter tray”.

Also, it appears there is a sufficient space (vertically) for the filter to fit on the left side of the tray too. (NOTE: Before you move the filter to the left, I’d check with your manual, if you have one, and if not, I’d check with a HVAC contractor...because there are wires in that space too. Very unusual. Maybe the wires can be moved out of the way so the filter fits snug against the intake.)

The reason it’s important to install the filter in the proper location is because it needs to “fit” properly and completely cover the air intake. The reason THAT is important is because you don’t want air seeping around the filter and carrying dust, etc. into your furnace. The reason THAT is important is because dust will build up on your heating coils and could ignite when the coils are turned on. (Even if it doesn’t ignite, it will make the furnace very inefficient because it “insulates” the coil do it doesn’t give off all the heat.)

I’d try to cut the condensate pipe so you could temporarily remove it, which would then allow you to remove the filter. Then, when new filter is installed, you could reinstall the pipe...


How can I waterproof walls that are not shower or basement walls? Have a room, ~10x10 that I want walls to be waterproofed and durable. This room will have parrots in cages. Cages will be periodically hosed off (have concrete floors, floor drain). There wont be intense water on the walls every day, like a shower, but there will be times it will be sprayed. Durable is because if they get out, they will destroy! : )  Have contemplated hardi-plank (or comparable), Durock, tile. I think tile could work well but the expense!!! Currently walls are framed. This room will be climate controlled. Maybe someone has other ideas?

Remember that concrete is porous so even if you have a floor drain some of the moisture will seep into the concrete. Seal the floor with a penetrating sealer or an epoxy floor paint. Maybe even an elastomeric membrane you paint on before applying tile on concrete slab floors. RedGuard is one type of product.

Your best solution would be to build the entire room like a shower like you mentioned. Moisture barrier on walls that extends a few inches on the floor and is sealed to it. Cement board or hardibacker covered in tiles. If you look around you can find cheap tiles. There are tiles stores around me in industrial areas that advertise $1/sq ft tiles. Home Depot has a 4x4" tile going for $0.16 each.

If the tiles are too much money...

If appearance isn't a concern maybe you can just paint over cementboard walls with the elastometric membrane?

Also Quikrete has a waterproof cement product called QuickWall Surface Bonding Cement. It's main purpose was to parge over dry stacked concrete block walls but it's also used for cisterns. You spread it on with a trowel like stucco 1/8" thick. At 50 sq ft per bag it comes out to about $0.32/sqft.

I've used it and it really is waterproof. I painted over it with DryLock waterproof paint for a nicer finish. I spoke with Quikrete and they said the DryLock wasn't necessary but already had it and I wanted a smoother surface on the wall. You could probably just use a regular, mildew resistant, glossy paint instead. Call Quikrete and see what they have to say because it's been a while since I used it. You'll want to let it cure a bit before

I mixed it up I think 1/2 bag at a time in a 5 gallon bucket with their acrylic fortifier using a drill and paddle mixer. Spread it on using a cement trowel.


What's the best house wrap to use underneath hardiplank (fiber cement) sidings? We live on a busy street near Midtown Atlanta and are currently having our home renovated. We're going to replace the wood sidings with HardiPlanks (fiber cement) sidings. What house wrap would be best to use underneath hardiplank sidings? We're looking to use it for the front of the house, and since the busy street can be quite noisy, we're hoping to use a house wrap that has soundproofing capabilities as well, if possible. Below is a photo of what's currently installed on the front of the house.

Make sure you install your siding according to ALL the manufacturers instructions, including the house wrap. See the Hardi specifications.
If you notice, the third item under “General Requirements” requires you to use a house wrap that is approved by the Building Department...which includes “HardiWrap”.
Using HardiWrap will assist in your sound control issue too. HardiWrap has small protrusions across the face of the moisture barrier which keeps the siding slightly away from the wall and allows moisture to “drain” down behind the siding. This “space”will help the STC rating of your wall...although I doubt the wall is the “weak link” in your sound control system. (I’d look at lack of operable window flashing, outlets on either side of the wall, etc. that create weak links in the sound control barrier.) There are some exceptions, like in very cold climates where the water can freeze and expand, so that’s why they say “approved by the Building Department”.
We know siding leaks, that’s why we use house wrap. We’ve now learned that water must escape too. So, the manufacturer now requires caulking at the jambs and sill, but not at the head of doors and windows. This allows water to run down the wall and escape and not get trapped at the head.


What is the correct direction for hot on a vertical single handle faucet? I'm having a hard time finding an answer to this question.  On a traditional single handle faucet, one with the handle on top (such as this Delta Foundations faucet) turning to the left is hot and turning to the right is cold.

I now have two single handle faucets where the handle is mounted vertically on the right side of the faucet.  In other words the lever moves forward and back to change hot/cold.  The question is which direction should be hot?  In my kitchen I have a Kohler Artifacts which has back towards the wall as hot and forwards towards the sink as cold.  In my bathroom I have a Delta Broadmoor faucet which is the opposite; down towards the sink is hot and up towards the wall is cold.  Neither has any indicator which should be which.

Is there a standard for this?  It seems like both should move in the same direction for hot, either back towards the wall or forwards towards the sink.  The question is which is correct?  Is one installed improperly or does it just vary by manufacturer?

You've found one of the major conundrums of modern plumbing.
In the US it has always been hot on the left and cold on the right. Europe - I'm not sure about.
However, as faucet design has changed it's become complicated as you pointed out. This started with single lever faucets, which was okay, because left was still hot and right cold. But then they started putting them on the side. When they went to the side, and even before that, many manufacturers started marking them - hot & cold but some didn't.
Now to your dilemma. If the faucets are unmarked you can set them up however it suits you. I'm not aware of any codes dictating that.
My preference when a single lever faucet moves either toward you or away is to have the cold toward and hot away. I think this works best with small children because they have a hard time reaching them and it's easier to pull than push away - thus cold forward.
The main thing is to get them the same throughout your house so there's no confusion. Since neither has an indicator I would change the Delta in the bathroom so that hot is back toward the wall. It's easy enough - just swap the supply lines under the sink. The good thing is whichever way you put them people will adjust quickly.
First Edit
What Ed Beal is saying in his comments is correct. If you think about rotating the handle left even if it's front to back, that left would be hot and right would be cold. I don't think code requires that on the type of setup you're asking about - but Ed Beal would know. In that case you would want to swap the supply lines under your kitchen sink instead of the bathroom.
Importantly, you want them the same.


Can blue (lightweight) drywall compound be used for all coats? I had a guy come in to do some drywall taping today and I had a bag of 20 min hot mud and a bucket of each green (regular) and blue (lightweight) joint compound.  I always though that the green should be used for the first two coats cause it is stronger and blue for the final coat cause it is easier to sand.

Once the dude finished the bag of hot mud, he went straight for the blue to do a little bit of first coating that was left at the end of the day.  I asked him why not use the green and he said they were the same.  I was not really sure in my assumption stated above and was tired at the end of the day to argue and also I wanted to trust his experience so I just let him do a couple of panels and a joint with the blue.

Who is correct, me or him?
If I am right and he is wrong, why could have led him to fail at differentiating?
If I am wrong and if they are indeed the same, why would they even have two different products (by the same brand)?

You can use either all the way through.  I have personally used both all the way through more than a few times and have mixed.  There are generally some differences.

the lightweight end mix is thicker, meaning that the regular can actually be better for a final coat since it goes on thinner
the lightweight is easier to sand but I hardly sand... so this hardly ever helps me
I personally think the lightweight dries out faster
lightweight does scratch and dent easier due to less density

Pros will use the regular since they can use a "less fluffy" mix that feathers easier (with little to no sanding).  But I could definitely see why a person with less experience would do the first two coats with regular and last two with lightweight.

Answers to your questions -

You are both a little right/wrong.  If I had to choose I would pick him.
If he knows what he is doing he doesn't sand much and doesn't need lightweight.
I answered these above.  The marketing for the lightweight is for the novice DIYer that hates to spend hours sanding...


Should there be cold air returns in my bathrooms? Should a heat vent be open when no return is present in a room. I have 2 bathrooms with showers that have heat vents but no returns. Pls let me know your thoughts.

Thanks

Bathrooms never have returns. You wouldn't want humidity and odor distributed throughout your house. Bathrooms in modern homes may have exhaust vents that route through a heat exchanger. This still results in the air being vented to the exterior though.

Also, it used to be common for bedrooms to have heat supplies but no cold air returns. There may have been a central return in the hallway or other common area.


What can I do about a Rough opening that is REALLY out of square? The house I am living in has a rather interesting problem.  Due to what I suspect was Jack Daniels building inspections in this town in the 80's, the footing wall under the second floor dining room looses about an inch across 9 ft.  The kitchen to the left is pretty level. If I jump down into the 8 ft crawlspace, I can actually see the crappy pour on which the builders just slapped up stub walls in which the first and second floors are built.  To boot, the house settled while being constructed so the sag in that section of the wall was drywalled out of square.  There are NO drywall cracks at the dining room window header corners so the builders knew this was a screwed up footing and stub wall.  The house was also sheathed with that aluminum coated cardboard and then finished with aluminum siding that one can no longer buy.

Now with all that being said, I want to somehow figure out how to replace the 6'0" x 4'0" dining room window which is 1" out of square.  If I run a level across the sill, the left side is 1" lower than the right.  As you can imagine, the left to right slider has a pretty nice gap at the top when closed under which I have, for years, been propping a yardstick under in the winter to cut the draft.  There has been some slight settling in the window frame at the left pane, held in with double face tape, is slightly askew which tells me that the entire footing foible is being transferred up through the framing under the right half of the window.

The exterior aluminum siding is the most problematic in my mind...  I won't be able to find anything to match it or the lipped edging that the siding fits under that the window is wrapped in on the outside.

Is there a way to get, maybe, a 6'0 by 3'10" window and then figure out how to trim out the window?  I can't see trying to readjust the entire house on the footing and fixing that.  Leveling the entire corner of the house now seems like it would really screw a lot of other stuff up.

Thoughts?

You can order custom size window at homedepot , low's or Pella etc, which is more expensive than standard size. If feasible and depend on the interior and exterior of your building and compatibility with other window sizes, I suggest you make a rough-in for 5'0x3'0 window, that is standard size window, and after the installing the window you can correct the imperfection by triming the window. Ofcourse the answer could be easier if you post the picture of your building and the area that you have problem with.


do 18" perfections and 18" tapersawn shakes have the same recommended maximum exposure What is the maximum recommended exposure (roof pitch 4 in 12) for 18 inch "perfections" versus 18-inch tapersawn shakes? Are they the same or different?

Does the recommended exposure also vary by butt thickness?

There is a maximum exposure for wood shingles. 18" shingles will have the same amount, whether tapered sawn handsplits or perfections. Maximum exposure is based on the remainder of the exposed part of the shingle to extend up under 2 more courses that way, where the nails are that hold the shingle in place, which by the way is always 2 nails regardless of how wide the shingle is. That way the water passing around the edges of the shingle onto the shingle under it has another shingle to get around before it causes a leak. The other guide line is that the shingle gaps are to be no closer than 2" apart from the shingle above or below.

On a 4/12 pitch, the rule may change there you may need to tighten up the exposure where the shingle top is covered by 3 shingles and not 2.

For example, maximum exposure for an 18" shingle will be 8" for a roof with a higher pitch than 4/12. On a 4/12 pitch the exposure would need to drop to 5 1/2".

With a lower pitched roof the rain water will not move off fast and would have a chance to migrate deeper around the shingles, therefore more chance of a leak.

The butt thickness only adds to the longevity of the shingle.


Issue with Thermostat I bought and installed a Trueway thermostat before 2 years. It was working well for the past years. But then a twist! the thermostat started to go nuts, the tempeature would race over 60 degree, even though I had set it 40 degree or bellow!! Do you know what is the problem? and also I would to know about the normal life period of a thermostat.

Does your thermostat take batteries? The thermostat in my house takes a standard AA battery. When the battery got old, the thermostat went nuts. If it does take a battery, it's probably about due for a replacement.


How should I install an access panel in a high traffic floor? I have a bit of a bastard plumbing joint which resides directly under a main doorway in my house. I recently needed to cut into the flooring in order to make a repair.

I've dealt with trapdoors in my homes on and off forever but never something in such a high traffic area. This area is tiled with thin laminate style which I need to match on the top of the trapdoor.

What is the most appropriate method for keeping the seam sealed but still allowing access?

EDIT - per request here is an image. The access panel is about 12x18 and ends about in the middle of a door frame.

The thin flooring poses a problem. If it is too thin to have enough body of its own to be handled as a removable 13x19 inch piece, I would probably try to use the trapdoor as the base and glue a slightly oversized (by 1/4 inch all sides) piece of laminate to the door. Trim the rest of the flooring so it abuts the edges of this oversized piece.

If sealing against moisture is necessary, I would bevel the outside edge of the trapdoor opening and glue in some soft foam insulation bead that sits just barely above wood level. Laminate overhang presses down on that.

I would also probably put a removable saddle on the seam in the doorway. It could be held down with two or three removable screw.  It would protect that joint line and give you something more substantial to handle and seal, at least on that edge.

Finally, I would insert a lift ring somewhere through the laminate and into the trapdoor for ease in removal:


How can I make lime plaster more resistant to vibration? I have a tiny house that I've just put some drywall up in. I am partial to the look and feel of Venetian/lime plaster, but since the house will move periodically I want to be sure it won't crack too much.

Here's a person who put lime plaster into their tiny house: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maMG1T8_u4I

He does comment on how it cracks when he drives it at about 5 minutes.

Is there a natural additive that will help prevent cracks/make the plaster somewhat more flexible?

I'm open to experimenting too :)

Think panels. The reason wood works so well is that each board can move 1/16” or so and the wood doesn’t crack or come apart.

Install gypsum board with plaster in panels that are allowed to move a bit and they won’t crack and fall apart either. You’ll need to experiment to determine the maximum size panel that will work in your case.

In addition, stiffen the under carriage so the entire building will not flex and twist during moving.

I’d use the “flexible” gypsum board panels (with your lime plaster over.) See USG 1/4” panel. Here’s an article about it:

https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/sheetrock-gypsum-panels-quarter-inch-flexible-submittal-WB2128.pdf


Why does my circuit breaker trip after everything in room is shut down? There is a circuit breaker that has been sporadically tripping for my living room at night, after everything is shut down.  What could be causing the issue?

The breaker is marked with a 15 on the switch.  In the picture, it is the breaker in the middle.  This has happened about ten times over the course of the last two months, generally 5 to 10 minutes after everything is shut down.

I have read other questions that involved a "loose" switch, this does not seem to be the case.  It requires about the normal amount of pressure to flip the breaker switch.

On this circuit there is a 40" lcd tv, Playstation 4, 3 Sonos speakers(1 playbar, 2 ones), a lamp, and a small space heater that get used.  There are also 4 track lights that are very rarely turned on.  I believe, but I'm not positive that this problem started before we got the space heater out.  By shutting everything down I mean that we turn off the lamp, tv, and space heater, and the speakers and playstation go into stand-by mode.

The breaker has only flipped while everything was in use once while I've lived here, at that point in time a vacuum was added to the load.  The ongoing sporadic issue had already begun when this happened.

Any idea what could be causing this issue?  Is this a cause for concern (do I need to get my landlord out here)?

Strange that it happens with things turned off, I haven't heard of a PlayStation causing this when sleep mode but since that is the only thing still active I would try connecting it to another branch circuit via an extension cord and see if the problem moves, if still tripping try the TV next , and the sound system after that. The lights can't be the problem because there is no power when the switch is turned off. I never suggest running a space heater on a extension cord unless it is a heavy 12 gauge cord but try plugging it in on a different circuit also I would think if the heater was the problem the breaker would trip when other items were turned on.


Is fast setting concrete heavier than regular concrete? I used the fast setting concrete to hold an umbrella clothes line inside a five gallon bucket, but someone told me that the fast setting concrete wasn't as heavy as regular concrete.

If regular concrete is heavier than fast setting concrete, then which type of concrete is the heaviest?

Thanks,
Sean

The person that told you that regular concrete is heavier than fast setting concrete may be referring to the weight of the bags that they come in at the big box stores.  The weight in concrete comes mostly from the aggregate, not the cement.  Any difference in weight between the two types of concrete would be immaterial in your application.


does this look like an up to code support beam? we had an entry way widened a bit which required them to install a longer support beam. I'm absolutely not a professional. But the 2x4's supporting the larger beam don't seem very substantial to me. There's just one under each end of the cross beam.

Does anyone who is more knowledgeable about building practices/codes know if this is up to snuff? The width is about 8.5 feet

For an 8.5' span I'd say no.  The purpose of the jack studs isn't just to hold up the header - it also helps distribute the load more evenly to the foundation.  For that wide of a span the IRC calls for 2 jacks(see R502.5 Allowable girder spans).


Does an outdoor AC condenser unit (Heat Pump) require lubrication? Pic included I have been in my house for 11 years now and every 3 or 4 years I have been taking the lid off my condenser unit and lubricating it. I just don’t know if I am even supposed to do this, but it make sense to me. Anyway this year the fan seems louder than last year, so I was going to lubricate it again, I was just wondering if this was normal? Keep in mind though, I think my unit is nearly 40 years old It is a Carrier. Here is a picture of my unit.

Any other maintenance tips for the condenser?

I would replace the Condenser Fan Motor.

Loudness would be attributed to either bent fan blades and/or worn bearings. Considering the age of your condenser unit, it is most likely bearings. Typically, the bearings on a Condenser Fan Motor do not require lubrication, because the bearing packs are sealed.

A video on removing a Condenser Fan Motor can be seen here and
here.
A very in-depth and high quality video can be watched here.

Here is a picture of a generic Condenser Fan Motor:

It is essentially sealed. This is on purpose. It keeps the dirt and debris from getting into the internal fan motor components. The bearings are also internal. There would be no effective way to lubricate them without literally removing the rotor from the stator (i.e. taking the fan apart).

Even if you do take it apart and remove the bearings (there is one in the back and one in the front) there is a good chance it is going to look like this:

In that case, it wouldn't be very wise to try and remove the protective jacket covering the bearings. They aren't too expensive and could be replace very easily. Just get yourself a puller and you would be all set.

If you are lucky, your bearings would look like this:

If your bearings do look like that, then it would be a lot easier to lubricate and probably wouldn't even have to remove them from the rotor in order to do it.

Conclusion

I would still replace the fan motor. It is old. It has been exposed to the environment for a very long time. Plus, technology has dramatically improved and you should be able to find a suitable replacement that is more energy efficient.


Switching electric boiler off for months -- any precautions? I have an electril 50-litre water heater (boiler) in an appartement that's going to be abandoned probably for several months. I thought about switching off the boiler's electric fuse to switch off the boiler and save money, since nobody is going to need the hot water.

Can I simply switch it off, and back on in several months, or should I do something more? Or I shouldn't do it at all?

A photo of the (I think) crucial parts of the boiler is attached:

Just switching it off should be fine. Depending on climate, you might also want to turn off and drain the whole water system (in which case you would want to be sure to refill the water system and get any air pockets out before switching the boiler back on).


How to tighten a pipe while keeping it at specific angle? A picture is worth 1000 words.

If I turn it upright, it starts leaking. There's not enough give to complete one more turn (I could turn it maybe 30 degrees more if I remove the shelf and push really hard). The pipe in the wall is - well, in the wall, can't be turned. The threaded piece of pipe leading to the tap is attached to it permanently. I used some teflon tape on the thread to make it watertight, but it only works when the two sides sit tightly together, and here, with the heater in the upright position the joint is really quite loose.

What do I need to do to fix this embarrassing problem?

Your picture doesn't quite give enough information. I think you are saying that whatever that box is (a water heater?) connects to a threaded pipe coming out of the wall. Am I right?

If so, the other end of that pipe is probably also threaded. Remove the water heater, then use a pipe wrench to remove the threaded pipe from the wall. Get a new pipe that is a bit longer.

FYI- Teflon tape isn't a sealant. The Teflon reduces the friction so that the joint can be tightened further than it could without.


Is this insect a pest? I have seen many of these insects lately. Usually just on the outside of the house - around the front door or the patio - but sometimes also inside.

Is this some kind of cockroach or other pest? Can they cause any harm?

The location is Germany, the province of Baden-Württemberg.

Looks like a Western Conifer Seed Bug. Or what my family calls a 'stink bug' because they stink as a defensive measure or when squished. It's a pest but not harmful to humans. Just annoying.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_conifer_seed_bug


What's the best way to insulate a floor over a crawl space? I have a crawl space that is roughly 50 square feet in space. The previous home owners installed a piece of plastic sheeting on the crawl space dirt floor. The floor above the crawl space is extremely cold during the cooler seasons. I've been researching a lot about insulating the crawl space, but still cannot decide on which of the following:

Installing fiberglass batts in the crawl space ceiling and rim joists
or
encapsulating the crawl space using rigid foam and 6 mil plastic sheeting.

I received quotes from multiple contractors that vary from fiberglass batts, rigid foam, spray foam or a combination of all three. The pricing is varying from $200 to over $2000 in some cases.

Ultimately, I would like to know which option is best. I've included pics of my crawl space.

My basement does have high humidity in the summer months, but I do have a dehumidifier that runs when it hits 55%. I am not sure if this will be a factor.

Any advice is appreciated.

The 'best' option is full encapsulation and insulation. This is the recommended method today. The primary arguments are:

humidity levels in an encapsulated space are much lower than vented spaces
due to it being encapsulated, it's much cleaner which can improve indoor air temperature (no pest droppings, dust, mold, pollen, etc. migrating up through the floor)

However, if you don't want to go that route, there are recommendations for insulating just the underside using rigid or spray foam. Building Science Corporation has recommendations.


What is this mesh cover on the wall? I just noticed this thingy on the wall of my apartment. Weird I haven't paid any attention to it since I bought this place. I could swear I just heard a low-pitched sound coming out of it. Is it a speaker? If so, where could the sound have come from?

If you're in a large apartment building, it may be a fire alarm or a speaker for the doorbell system (functional or no longer functional if they've switched to a cell phone based system).  Those are very common in larger buildings that are required to have a central alarm instead of only unit-by-unit alarms.


wiring a oven with 4 wires to home service with 3 wires My new oven has 4 wires and my old oven had 4 wires but my home service only has 3. I found that the old oven had the white wire connected to the ground should i do the same hook up?

If I am reading this right, by "home service" you mean your range receptacle has three prongs, and three wires with no ground wire supplying the receptacle.

If that's the case, you'll want to connect the bonding jumper from neutral to frame ground in the range:

If that isn't the case - if you have a ground wire / ground prong on the receptacle - you do NOT want that jumper strap connected!

That picture is from this article:

http://www.adamselectric.coop/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Bonding-Frames-of-Major-Appliances.pdf


What is this item? Unknown device in old laundry closet in newer construction house I am planning on turning the space where an old laundry closet used to be into a shower area as part of a more extensive renovation (house was built in 2006). As part of the planning and design part of this process I came upon this black thing sticking out of the wall, which I have no idea what it is? My best guess is it is an old sealed off vent pipe? I figured I would ask here (pic included) to see what it might be before I start tearing up the place. Additionally, if there are any tips on how it could be removed or hidden behind the wall (if possible/permitted by code) that would be appreciated.

For context, the water tray for the old washer is on the bottom. Cold and hot water connections (not seen in pic) are further up on the wall to the right of the unknown device.

Thanks!

It looks to me like a drain clean-out. If your drain pipes clog deep in the system, the cap can be removed to get a fairly straight shot down to the common sewer for a roto-rooter-type machine.

You should probably find a new location to add one in  its place.


Can I double excess heat tape on a pex pipe? I'm renovating 2nd floor bathroom and starting with the shower stall.  Overall bathroom is 8 ft by about 5ft.  I live in lower New York state so winters here can be pretty cold.

I’ve installed some pex / sharkbite plumbing into my attic and want to attach a heat cable.  It is one pipe going from my shower handle at one end of my shower stall up into my attic and ending at my shower head at the other end of shower stall.  Shower head is on outside wall.

I bought a 6’ long heat cable but it is just a little too long.  This heat tape/cable is intended to be taped to the pex pipe along the base. With the 1 foot of excess can I just doubled back on the top side??  Also the pipe is attached to attic floor joist with metal clamps, is it ok from safety perspective to put heat tape on pipe that is attached to wood?? Any help would be appreciated.

I would not double back. I would consult your heat tape/cable directions. If you no longer have the directions, I would google the make/model of your heat tape/cable to see what the manufacturer recommends when it is too long for what you need.

In general, if it has a plastic piece at the end (as the one I used did), I would not cut it. If you can't cut it, just put it a little longer and use a small electrical cord staple to affix it to the joist beyond the pipe.

It should be perfectly safe to put the tape/cable next to wood, most of these heat tapes/cable are designed to keep the temperature just above freezing, and are self-regulating to prevent them from getting too hot (as long as you don't cut them when they shouldn't be cut :-). I would definitely do a little research to get the manufacturer recommendations.


Tankless water heater - not consistent hot water output I have a tankless with a descaler on the cold water input.
When I turn on the hot water at the faucet it takes a minute or so to get hot water. Then I'll hear some banging/knocking of the pipes.

However, if I leave the hot water running, it turns to cold water.

What could be happening?

update
It is a Noritz NR981-OD-NG. Natural gas model. We just installed the unit a few weeks ago. I just started to use it this past week.

This is our only hot water heater and is rated for 2 to 3 showers.

The hot water is on full and the cold water is off.

update 12/29/16
Could the flow of water be causing the hot water heater to not activating to heat the water? I can hear the hot water heater 'working' even when cold water is coming out of hot water faucet.  From the specs of the water heater: "Minimum Activation Flow Rate   0.5"  How can I tell/measure what the flow rate is ???

update 1/3/2017
Resolved!
The plumber and I changed out the water limiting spout cover and that did the trick. Our local gas company gave us a water savings kit and we used the water limiting spout (rated for 1.5 gpm) and that seemed to fix the problem.

We have a basic Bosch tankless, NG 117 kBTU/h, with a standing pilot light, no a/c power required, all mechanical controls, discontinued model I think, been in service 12 years. It worked fine until I changed to low flow shower heads (1.4 gpm). I took out the flow restrictors in the shower heads and the water heater worked again. So that is my experience.

Your Noritz NR981-OD-NG is larger and with more features so there are more things that can go wrong. If you remove your shower head and get full flow of hot water, does the water get hot? Or if you turn on all the hot taps in the house, do you get hot or even warm water?

Is the variable burner at fault? Is it stuck on 16 kBTU/h? Is the gas pressure and flow adequate for the heater? Can you tell from the gas meter if the heater is pulling the amount of gas required for maximum 200 kBTU/h heating?


Height Adjustable Kitchen Island on Casters I am planning to build a kitchen island with two features

Height adjustable
Movable using casters

The reason for #1 is it can be used as dining table during parties

The reason for #2 is that can be moved to my deck; saving me time arranging foods and cleanup.

I am planning to use electric height adjustable desk frame ( ones used in adjustable height office desks).

Naturally - it won't have any plumbing. For electric - I am planning to install a flush mounted electric outlet into my kitchen floor.

Has anybody had any experience in building something similar ?

While you will likely be exempt from the requirement for counter receptacles for small appliances, provided you have those in other (fixed) areas of the kitchen, you may want to consider providing them for convenience. There are a few ways to do that. The simplest would be to use a 20A floor receptacle with a plug/cord from the island that goes to a junction box in the island where you would have receptacles. You may be able to hard-wire the adjustable top to that or, alternatively, use a quad receptacle (instead of a double) with the adjustable top plugged into 1 of the 4 receptacles, leaving three for small appliances (food processor, blender, toaster, etc.) or other convenience items (cell phone charger).
One of the pros can speak to the specifics - you do NOT simply take an extension cord and hack it to connect to the back of the receptacles. But that is the general way to think of how things will connect.
Consider a Pendant
As noted by Harper, a pendant may be a better solution than a floor receptacle. See How can I provide an electrical outlet at my portable kitchen island? for more details.


How can I seal the gap around a bathroom exhaust fan? I've got my exhaust fan installed in the ceiling of the bathroom, now I'm wonder how best to seal the gap around it. The fan housing is obviously sheet metal, and the ceiling has the plastic vapor barrier on top of the drywall. Would metal tape work for this or is there something better to use?

The fan can be covered up to R40, so once the physical gap is covered I can back-fill the insulation. I'm just wondering what will stick reliably to both sheet metal and the plastic sheet.

You could use a spray foam insulation like Great Stuff.  It sticks to just about everything and expands to fill voids.


PVC glue fumes in pipeyste So I installed the PVC DWV lines for a wet bar and I put a temporary cap where the P-trap would go as the drywall isn't installed yet.  I took the cap off recently and I got a big whiff of that strong primer/glue smell.  It went away after that, but I tried it again later and the same thing happened.

How concerned should I be given that the warnings on the labels talk about how the fumes could be explosive?  It makes sense that the fumes would be trapped in the pipes as some of the glue will inadvertently get pushed into the pipe at sealing time.

The fumes should dissipate soon after gluing everything up. I have not experienced smelling strong fumes from the glue long after the pipe has been glued. You might get a faint odor, but it should not be strong smelling.

What you probably smelling is sewer gas. Sewer gas will build up in the pipes, and you would smell a strong odor coming from the pipe after it has been blocked off for a while. This gas is considered harmful, and is extremely flammable in concentrated amounts.

Since there is a trap, you could try filling it with water before capping it off again. The water in the trap will prevent the sewer gas from coming into your home. Wait a few hours, and remove the cap. If you don't smell fumes, then the source was most likely sewer gas.


self leveling layer with internal French drain I am planning to pour a layer of self leveling sealant such as levelPro to level out my basement floor and cover / encase some possible problematic vinyl tiles.

It's an older house, and I believe it has an internal French drain, though I can't say for sure. It does have a sump pump/pit in the corner of the basement that occasional gets triggered and pumps some water out. I also think it has an internal French drain since the basement floor/ tiles go out to the basement walls, but there's a gap of 1-3 inches in which there are some stones. I think this is covering the French drain.

If this is the case, I want to pour the underlayment without it getting into the French drain. What is the best way to accomplish this? My current thought its that I might tape or adhere some 6 mil plastic sheeting on the edge of the floor right before it becomes stone, and tuck it into the corner where the wall meets the stones, and then run it up the wall a few inches and then adhere it to the wall. Does this seem reasonable, and does it seem like it would cause any issues with the setting of the poured leveling underlayment? If I go this route should I use a thicker plastic?

Please, let me know if this is the best course of action or if I should take another approach.

Thanks!

How long do you plan to keep the house?

I'd just get the tiles tested and remediated.  How many square feet are you thinking about?

Self level isn't cheap and if you want to make your basement usable at some time in the future you probably want to do something more through.

I've fixed up a number of 1920 basements that had sump pits for ground water collection, no vapor barrier, brick / thin concrete or some other kind of weak terrible floor.

Generally I'd remove the existing floor, remove some dirt, add interior perimeter drains, add a modern sump pit, add a drainage layer, add some insulation, add a radon/vapor barrier, add a pipe for future passive/active radon mitigation, re-pour slab.  Sometimes I underpin the foundation to gain height.


How can I cut/route a small, straight slot through a piece of wood? While I'd like to keep this question as generic as possible, I specifically want to cut a slot that's 1/2" long x 3/16" wide all the way through a piece of 3/8"-thick oak.  My primary options are probably a router or Dremel.  However, I need the slot to be perfectly straight like this:

(If anyone's in the market for a Photoshop expert, please contact me.)

Is a router with a guide my best bet?  Is there some other way I could go about doing this?

Use a router with a plunge base and either an edge guide or straight edge, depending on the size of your work piece.  Attach stop blocks to the workpiece and/or straight edge (clamps would be one easy way to hold the stop blocks in place).  The stop blocks will prevent you from cutting your slot too long.  First set up the edge guide or straight edge with the appropriate offset for your router base, parallel to where you want the slot.  With the router unplugged and the bit almost touching the wood, position the router bit where you want the slot to start.  Then use the router base to gauge exactly where to position the stop and clamp it in place.  Do the same for the other end of the slot, then proceed with plugging in the router and cutting the slot in several passes, going slightly deeper each time.

You can also use a router table to do something similar, but the steps for setup will be different since you won't be able to see the cut as you're making it.  However, you will be able to use your router table's fence and possibly other T-track or miter track accessories.

Although your material isn't very thick, it's still not a bad idea to cut the groove in multiple passes.

In a pinch, you can also use a Dremel/rotary tool (which is essentially just a tiny, low-torque router) along with a router attachment and multipurpose spiral bit, but a router will give you slightly better results.

If you don't have a router, it's relatively easy to cut this slot by drilling a series of overlapping holes with a drill press and Forstner or brad-point bits, then clean it up with chisels.

No matter what solution you use, be sure to put a sacrificial piece of scrap wood on the back side of the workpiece to help prevent blowout when you cut all the way through to the other side.


How can I prevent an exterior GFCI outlet from tripping so often? Presently I have a GFCI (120V) located on an outlet in my utility room of the house. From this outlet on the LOAD side, I have a #12 3 wire cable running in Schedule 40 conduit underground 150 feet  to a pole outside in my yard. Things worked Ok for a while but now the GFCI trips all the time.

I unplugged the spot lights from the outside outlet box (protected by code with weatherproof plastic cover box), but the GFCI still trips. I am wondering if I should connect  the Ground wire to a ground rod at the pole due to the long cable run which may have enough resistance to make the GFCI trip? I have replaced the GFCI inside the house, same result, checked the cable, no shorts or high resistance shorts.

Can't figure this out !

Do not connect the ground wire to a ground rod at the pole! This is against the code and is very dangerous.

For underground wiring, you want to use UF-B cable. This is rated for direct burial or use in conduit. You should have used scehdule 80 for the conduit as it is thicker and stronger. Schedule 40 PVC conduit can break easier and may be what happened. Depending on how deep you buried it, the conduit could have broke and damaged the cable.

If you used standard romex cable underground, that could be causing a ground fault because the paper insulation in the cable can wick water. Although the paper is not touching the copper of the line and neutral in romex, if water is in the conduit, the cable could have deteriorated and could be shorting to ground slightly.

A big clue is that everything was working for a while and then it started to trip. Look for what has changed since it started to trip. Did you drive something heavy over the area the conduit is buried? Was there recent flooding?

But to reiterate my first comment, DO NOT GROUND THE GFCI TO A SEPARATE GROUND ROD! The circuit breakers will not properly trip during a short circuit condition in this situation.


Why don't my inline booster fans operate as expected? I have installed two inline duct booster fans to increase the airflow for my furnace/ac in a new addition that I got built. The new run that I installed is an 8" flex duct that runs about 25 ft. then splits into two 6" flexible ducts running to the two registers that I installed for that addition.
I checked the new run from beginning to end and there are no obstructions or slack in it. Right now I have one booster fan in each of the 6" split runs and they are controlled by a Suncourt ducstat.
I have two issues that I am puzzled with:

First,   The fans are really not blowing a lot of air through the registers, although they are positioned about 3-4 feet away from the registers.

Second, The fans turn on for a few seconds only and then turn off, then a few minutes later they come on briefly and then shut off (they don't stay on continuously for the entire furnace blower cycle) I have followed the Suncourt Ducstat instructions carefully and set it up correctly.

Any advice as to what the issues could be will be appreciated.
Before anybody asks the obvious, the fans are installed correctly with the correct airflow direction!!

Has your furnace/AC unit been sized for the addition?
Try unplugging the fans from the ducstat and plug them into a regular outlet and see if they continue to cut out.
Keep in mind that these fans will only help move the air that's available from the main blower, they won't increase the air available. Your run of 8" duct and then split into 2-6"ducts is going to have a lot of resistance to air flow. Those two fans will help accelerate the existing air to it's destination. The plenum and main blower will supply a certain amount of air for the entire house, the fans won't increase that amount.
The strain on the fans due to the lack of air could be overloading them and causing them to kick out.
I've seen this a lot on this site and one of the good solutions is to add a mini split system for the addition because you're probably taxing your existing system.


Laundry Room outlet and light not working My overhead light and outlet in my laundry room are not working, all of the sudden. They are on the same breaker and nothing else in the house is on that breaker. I just replaced the light switch and the outlet, and replaced the breaker that controls the light/outlet. It still is not working. I have an inexpensive volt meter that lights up 110 in the 110 outlet when the light switch is off. Weirdly, the volt meter lights up 220 in the 110 outlet when the light switch is on (but the overhead light does not go on). Only other fact to mention is that there is a 220 outlet right next to the 110 outlet. The 220 outlet has not been used for many years (it was installed and used by a prior owner who were from Europe and had European appliances). This outlet shows 220 on the volt meter both when the light switch is off and when the light switch is on. Any help of what my issue is would be much appreciated.

If you turn that switch on, it will run at 220v, probably your light runs at 120v (correct me if I'm wrong) which means that fluorescent, incandescent or led light will blow up after getting really bright depending of the type of light. Something must be wrong with the wiring in that switch-outlet.


Thermal Question About Heat Management I have a house that has a loft. The loft has a flap at the highest point that has a turbine cut in the roof deck. On hot days the turbine will spin sometimes very fast as hot air escapes.

My question is two fold:

should I leave that flap open during the day, even if I am going to use A/C part of the time?
or should I leave it open only until the first time the house has filled with cool air then close it?

The logic of #1 is that the A/C will push cold air in and the hot air will be forced up and out, lessening the work the condenser will have to do. But 2 makes me think that once the structure has cool air in it, leaving the flap open might just invite the condenser to suck hot air in through the turbine.

So looking for optimal strategy: close, leave open until cool then close, always open.

These kinds of vents are common. However, understand how they work: they suck out hot air that's in the attic, and that removed air needs to be replaced by air that enters from somewhere else. If your attic was built correctly, the make-up air enters through soffit vents. If your attic was built incorrectly or shoddily (which is common), the make-up air will be pulled from the inhabited part of your house. If this is happening, you need to air-seal the barrier layer (usually the ceiling) between the attic and the inhabited part of the house. In many houses there are a variety of ways for air in the house to leak into the attic:

Ducts or mechanical equipment located in the attic
Attic pull-down staircase door that has not been air-sealed
Bath vents that have not been air-sealed
Chimneys and flues that have not been air-sealed
Ceiling lights and electrical boxes that have not been air-sealed
Holes drilled in wall top plates for electrical wires that have not been air-sealed

All of those can let air in your house into the attic, causing the roof vents to pull air that you've paid good money to condition into the attic where it's not doing anyone any good.