splicing a 25 pair telephone riser I have a phone riser in my apartment (25 copper pair, originally but only 18 left going past my floor) carrying Verizon phone service.

I have to move it over 3' to a different wall, so that means splicing in a new segment, a "bridge", which goes under the floor to a different wall up that wall into the ceiling and back to the place in the ceiling where the riser exits.  Verizon won't be doing this work because they want $6000 to do it (and even at that price it will take 8 to 10 weeks to get done).

I have a 25 pair 22 awg plenum and I'm going to get some 3G UR2 to make each of the 72 connections.  (18 pair x 2 wire x 2 splice locations).

I have a few questions (is that allowed)?

1) I can't tell if the existing wiring (probably installed at lest 30 years ago) is 22 AWG or 24 AWG.  Will there be any problem if I use 22 AWG and the existing wire is 24?  Some tenants above me may be using DSL of course.

2) If I use the UR2, I have to cut each conductor and then crimp the two connections - this means the circuit will be dead momentarily.  Alternatively, I could use a double run/tap connector and connect the entire "bridge" section first then cut the middle out.  So there are two questions here:
  a) Is this kind of connection "as good" as the UR2 which has the gel inside? I really don't want to cause service problems and have Verizon poking around. and b) once I complete the bridge but before I cut the short piece out there will be two "paths" for each conductor.  Will this cause problems while the job is in progress?

Firstly, I don't know what your specific situation is, but it sounds like what you're trying to do might be illegal. You're potentially messing with people's emergency services (911 access) and Verizon might own the cable you're trying to mess with. But, I'll assume you've worked this out somehow, and take no responsibility for your actions.

I used to work on telecom and have done cutovers on live copper. It's easy; much easier, but dirtier, than fiber.

Moving to a larger gauge wire is not ideal, mainly because splicing it together could be less reliable (the UR2 is designed for the same gauge wire), but otherwise will not cause any issues.

Using a temporary connection while cutting over is standard practice. We used some vampire clip jumpers (AKA ABN (Angled Bed-of-Nails) clips) to make a temporary bridge, cut out the old, made a new splice in the middle. The gel inside the UR2 (icky-pic) is to keep water out, not act as a conductor, so the vampire clips are just as good in the temporary situation. If someone is talking on the phone during the cutover they will probably hear something, but should not be too disrupted.

I encourage you to check the law on this. If you don't have permission and licensing then even if you're not caught in the act and Verizon later finds out someone illegally performed the exact thing you already got a quote for... Well, it's still illegal and they have a damn good idea who did it.


Light Fixture - power but no light Yesterday I installed a new light over our dining table. At first everything seemed to work fine, but last night I turned on the light and it sparked and the light went out. I turned off the power and left trouble shooting for this morning.

Here's what I've discovered this morning -

-The breaker wasn't thrown and appears visually fine.
-The black wire may have grounded against the mounting plate - it looks like there is a small cut in the wire insulation. This probably occurred when I was shoving the wires back inside.
-After wrapping the wire in electrical tape and hooking up the light again, it's still not working - no light.
-When testing the wires coming from the ceiling (using multimeter), there is 120V between power and ground and 120V between power and neutral.
I checked the light fixture by connecting the wires to an extension cord and it works (so the light fixture or bulbs aren't the problem).
-The light switch looks fine as do all the connections.
-Using an extension cord, I tried to hook-up a desk lamp the ceiling wires and also got no light.
-As far as I can tell, this light/switch is the only outlet on the breaker.

I'm stumped. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

Thanks,

-Ryan

I was able to figure it out. Apparently the dimmer switch ended up being the culprit. It must have shorted out when the wire sparked last night.


Does a water heater consume more or less power if one element isn't working? Will there be more power consumption to heat water in the tank if one of the elements is not working or will it just take twice as long to heat the same amount of water to a preset temperature?

It depends on which element is bad.

Water is drawn off the top of the water heater, a dip tube brings cold water to near the bottom. This is done because heat rises, so as the water is heated the hot water works it's way down to the bottom.

An electric tank style water heater uses two elements that work in sequence. As hot water is used the top element kicks on, if a lot is used then the temperature falls lower and lower inside the tank. As the temp drops physically in the tank the upper thermostat flips down to turn on the lower thermostat turning on the lower element. Once the lower portion is satisfied then it flips back up to turn on the upper element. Once that is satisfied the unit turns off.

So...... if the usage is low, like one person and short showers, and the lower element is bad, you may never even know it since you may hardly ever use enough hot water to turn on the lower element. If the upper element is bad then you may never have enough properly hot water at all.

So it is really not a matter of losing one out of two elements will take twice as long. It is much more complicated than that.


How bad is using a 200 amp breaker box on a mobile home that only has 100 amp underground wire? I just found out my parents breaker box is 200 amp in there mobile home but the underground electrical service line is 100 amp. The mobile home park has existed since 1979 and landlord has said electric line has never been upgraded. I am not sure if the meter box outside that does 4 mobile homes at once has a 100 amp shutoff, if it does than the indoor 200 amp breaker box shouldn't be a problem. They have lived in the mobile home for over 10 years and hasn't any problem with it.

I do believe they have never used over 100 amps at once. I have already told there landlord that the breaker box needs replaced to 100 amp or the underground wire needs upgraded to 200 amp wire and there landlord has already given me attitude and refuses to do anything about the problem.

I only have an issue with it since they do have all electric heat and because of that it should be a 200 amp service line. Its a tiny mobile home, so 100 amp line should be enough. I want professional opinion on the problem.

Service lateral

The service lateral (underground version of the service drop) before the meter is the power company's responsibility.   They have a smart meter on it.  They know what is installed in the ground (it could be #4Al for all we know) and they know when you draw on it hard enough to cause thermal problems or voltage drop.  So go ahead and install your Bitcoin miners and horticulture lights if you're in a state that's into that... The power company will let you know if you need a service lateral upgrade.

Service laterals are not subject to NEC.  The power company has a different codebook.

Your responsiblity is to have overcurrent protection (breaker) that is appropriate to the power the power company has promised to provide you (provisioned you) i.e 100A.  The service lateral may be wholly inadequate to the task if you really drew all that; but it's their right to undersize the cable on the bet that you won't, and their job to bird-dog that.

A downline (sub) panel can always have a bigger breaker

Since you have a 100A main breaker at the meter, it's perfectly fine to use a larger 200A panel downstream of it.  There is nothing that requires the subpanel's "main breaker" agree with the breaker that is actually feeding it.

if the subpanel's "main" is bigger than the supply breaker, it is merely a shutoff switch.  Given how panels are priced, it is often the cheapest way to get a shutoff switch if one is required (e.g. In an outbuilding).
If the subpanel's "main" is smaller than the supply breaker, then each has different jobs.  The supply breaker protects the wire/Cable to the subpanel.  The subpanel "main" protects the subpanel itself.

In this case, since the "sub" panel is in fact the domicile's main panel, using a 200-225A panel is the only sane choice.  100A panels are quite small panels, typically not much larger than 20-space.  You need as a "desperation minimum" 30 spaces in a main panel, and 40 spaces or more is a better choice. That is especially so in an all-electric home, where otherwise-gas appliances are gobbling up breaker spaces 2-4 at a time.

The traditional desperation move when you run out of spaces is "double-stuff" breakers, but that is becoming less viable as more and more circuits require AFCI or GFCI.  Those breakers are not available in double-stuff.  Given the price difference you are far better off just buying a 42-space or two 30’s, rather than painting yourself into a corner and having to spend much more to get out of it.


Is there a maximum thickness for shower float cement? We are currently redoing our shower and would like to use float-cement to carry the tile. The wall behind it is a bit crooked, so, to get it nice and level, the float-cement would have to be a bit thick (>1") in some areas.

Is there a maximum thickness that float-cement can have, for example before it starts cracking in ways that could damage the tiles attached to it?

I am not aware of any maximum thickness requirements, only minimum. Many tile setters do not like going over a cement base that is thinner than 1 1/2" for fear of cracking, although there are additives of one sort or another to get it thinner, though not much. To have more concrete on one side or another to account for an existing condition, will not adversely affect the concrete. The concrete needs to be sloped to the drain anyway so no shower water sets.

The concern you have with a thicker concrete base is confusing to me. The only way that a thicker base can crack is to put too much water in the mix, when the water dissipates, the concrete will crack from shrinkage. But the amount of water to be used in that situation is to be only enough to get the concrete to set up. The term used with this type of concrete setting is "dry pack" at least it is what the tile setters called it. The amount of water needed to get the concrete damp enough to stay in a ball when you pick up a handful and squeeze. No squishing, no water dripping. Just getting it damp enough to hold together. With this, there is no maximum, though 2"-2 1/2" is the thickest ever needed to make the base for tile. You could add reinforcing wire to it although I have never seen it done for showers. mainly because of the rust potential, I think. Concrete and galvanized don't get along too well, let alone regular wire mesh with no rust proofing.


Why two external dryer vents? In the back of my house I see two external dryer vents. I am sure one isn't for the dryer.

I live in a townhouse and all the townhouses have these two vents so its not a reroute job.

Vents could be

exhaust for dryers, bathroom exhaust fans, stovetop exhaust hoods;
intake (fresh air supply) for gas- or oil-burning appliances (furnaces, water heaters, fireplaces);
or plumbing vents. (Although plumbing vents would typically be through the roof.)

Can you follow the duct inside to see where it goes?


how to attach framing to this window in concrete? I'm looking to finish my basement. I have several windows embedded in the concrete as shown in the picture below. I was planning to put framing up in front of the concrete and run some plywood all around the window frame with some concrete anchors drilled through the window frame. Is that right? What is the right way to attach wooden framing to the window frame pictured below?

Using treated lumber, you can attach the framing using a combination of suitable adhesive and concrete anchors like tapcons.

Consider, though, whether you'll have moisture issues between your plywood (or finished surface) and the concrete. How do you plan to seal and insulate, or do you?


Are "1/4 turn" water supply valves more reliable than "multi-turn" valves? Or vice-versa? Aside from personal preference, is there any reason why I would want to buy a "1/4 turn" water supply valve instead of "multi-turn valves"? Is one technology/design clearly superior than the other in terms of reliability? Or is this purely just a style preference?

Yes, ball valves or quarter turn valves tend to be more reliable than globe valves.  Globe valves require a washer and a tight friction fit between the seat and washer, and if either of these wear out (which they do over time), leaks start.  Ball valves are much simpler in construction.

A downside to ball valves is that they are more difficult to get variable flow out  of and are best when you need either on or off states, but nothing in between.

While there are more considerations for industry-specific applications, around the house, ball valves would be my choice for any shutoff valve.


Toilet hisses after flush, is it normal? This might sound stupid but I've just changed the diaphragm in the toilet as it was hissing and not filling for a long time.

The toilet flushes great and only takes about 20-30 seconds to fill now, but at the end it makes a quick hiss sound.

I'm assuming this is probably the valve closing fast and that's the sound of the water flowing through but I just wanted to double check that there isn't something else wrong.

Is this normal?

Once the tank gets close to full the hiss is the water being restricted until the valve closes and is normal.


Partially finished basement needing dehumidification I have a partially finished basement with a wall and door separating the two spaces. I'd like to keep the door between them shut but need both areas dehumidified. If I run two separate but identical dehumidifiers in those two spaces is that much different energy usage than one unit running with the door open?

If you get one larger dehumidifer, it  is generally more energy efficient than two smaller ones running in separate areas as noted by Keshlam. However, it also may not dehumidify both spaces equally depending on air flow. It all depends on the possible products available, the spaces you are planning to condition, and the degree of accuracy you wish to control humidity in both spaces.

If you are running two of the same dehumidifier (buying a second to supplement an existing rather than upsizing to a single more efficient model), then theoretically it could consume the same energy depending on the specs of the dehumidifier (starting the dehumidifiers has an initial spike in energy to get the motors going, so doubling the power required to start two motors instead of one might make two a slightly less efficient configuration, but most likely not enough to make a noticeable impact). However, this isn't a theoretical physics problem with round cows--there are a lot of variables. The cycle times (off/on) could be very short if they are oversized for the space and desired set point--thus shortening the lives of the dehumidifiers and factoring into cost. Or, the cycle times could be very long if undersized for the space--thus shortening the lives of the dehumidifiers and factoring into cost. Basically, as long as you make sure that the dehumidifiers are adequately sized to condition the space (whether you go with one or more), then it shouldn't be too noticeable from a cost of perspective to have multiple dehumidifiers instead of one (apart from the up-front cost of more than one dehumidifier). Also, I'm personally not a huge fan of added fan noise in conditioned spaces like you would get with a second dehumidifier if you're considering that as part of added comfort.


Can I add insulation to the top of my oven range (under the drip pans) The surface (top) of my 1982 Kenmore continuous cleaning oven gets very hot while baking; hot enough to melt plastic bags, etc.
Can I add a layer of oven wrap insulation to the top of the oven, under the lid?
The drawback will be that the insulation will get dirty from drippings, etc that drop down from above.

Maybe with a sheet of aluminum on top of it to prevent drippings from saturating the insulation (which would cause a fire hazard)  However, you could cause the top steel of the oven to overheat and damage the finish.  And if a fire started and burned the house down if they discover the oven was modified your homeowners insurance may not pay out.  There are all kinds of liability risks to modifying a power appliance.  Since this is a cheap electric oven you can get a much better one for not much money used off craigslist.
However, we have a pretty expensive range ourselves my wife has melted plastic by accident on top of it.  I just handed her a razor blade scraper and told her plastic and cooking do not mix.  It only happened once. :-)


What's the purpose of this bundle of small wires in my closet? I recently bought a house.  In one of the closets, there is a small room with a bunch of wires, connections, etc.

I'm in the process of figuring out what exactly is going on to see if I can use any of it.  Pictured here, I've got the most confusing bit:   (I can take more pictures if needed)

Those small wires at the top get separated into 3 blue wires that leave together.
The small blue wire at the bottom connects to another Ethernet cable in another part of the room.
The two grey wires that go to the bottom of the screen is really just one wire (to long to include in the picture.

What's going on here?

Edit: More Photos

That's twisted pair communications cable. Could be used for phone or data and sometimes used (or misused) for other things.

More pictures would be helpful. Like the cables above the photo and some different angles. One thing that's confusing is those black stripes on that gray cable. Are those other wires within the cable or something else?

A pair is a colored cable with a white striped cable. Blue and white blue striped for example.

Telephones need one pair. A 4 pair cable can contain 4 telephone lines. Blue and white blue is typically line 1. Orange pair is line 2 then green and brown are lines 3 and 4 respectively. People don't always follow conventions though.

Older computer networks require 2 pairs. More recent networking requires 4 pairs. The mess of wires you have is more indicative of telephone (or something else) rather than data.

I see a blue pair that is connected to 3 or 4 other blue pairs by splitting the blue and blue white, bundling them and wire nutting them. I've never seen that done before. The single blue pair would be my best guess for the incoming main phone line.

You have some orange and brown pairs going to a keystone Jack which I have no idea why someone would do that from just this photo. If those orange and brown pairs come from that same cable that the blue pair came form it may be a second and third line. Home office and fax maybe.  If from a different cable... Who knows. Can't really tell from picture. Maybe from cable modem for voice, maybe from VoIP adapter maybe something completely else. Hopefully not speaker wire since that's not the type of speaker wire you want to be running through your walls.

It would be helpful to know what Jack's you see upstairs and if the number of Jack's you find correspond to the number of wires in the photo.

There are better ways to distribute these types of cables.

The simplest is to use a phone distribution board. It has a 110 wiring block that you punch down the 4 pairs from your incoming cable and then additional blocks for each cable that runs to a wall Jack. On one of my websites I have an article on organizing home phone lines that shows more detail that you might find useful.

I eventually ran new cables and decided to use a 110 block, which is another wiring device. It's more complicated but also more flexible. Being more complicated made the project more enjoyable for me and for some reason I find it very satisfying to use a punch down tool I got to use a lot with the 110 block. I have an article on how to wire a 110 block.

A 66 block is another type of wiring device that is used for phones. It's an older style but still frequently preferred for phones.

My guess as to what's going on.

Since you provide more pictures and details this is what I think is going on. I left out the unused wires and only draw one line to represent a pair of wires for simplicity. Let me know if this diagram corresponds to what you see.

The three blue cables lead up to the phone jacks where you plug in your phones.

The grey wire is the incoming phone line from the telephone provider. It has the dial tone.

Line 1 is the blue pair and the main phone line used. All 3 blue cables have their blue pair tied to the incoming blue pair. There's also a grey flat cable with RJ11 connector connected to line 1 (I'll discuss this later) and another blue pair that runs down the left side of the photo and I can't see where that goes.

Also from the same grey cable (as far as I can tell) the green and brown pairs are punched down to the keystone jack. Then the green and brown pairs of the blue cable to the right are connected to this keystone with a modular plug. This might be a business line and fax line for a home office or something similar. The other end of the blue cable might be split off so that the blue pair goes to one jack and the green and brown go to another.

The reason for the flat cable RJ11 plug might be just to have a quick way to test the phone line at the source if there's a problem. It might also be that the person wanted to be able to have a way to quickly send line 1 to the jack that is fed by the green/black pairs in case they disconnected that phone service. All they would need to do is disconnect the green/brown wire plug from the keystone and insert the RJ11 that is connected to the blue wirenutted wires.


Are my basement walls sweating? Portions of my basement wall are darker and appear to be wet, but to the touch they are just slightly cooler. I took a few pictures to show. The pattern of the darker areas is strange in some places where it appears.  The 2x4's running along the top where it looks quite wet are dry.

Is this water coming through the walls?

Simple test:

Take some clear plastic.  One layer from a large sandwich bag would be ideal.  Tape it securely to the wall at a spot where you're observing the problem.  Make sure you seal all the way around the edge of the piece of plastic.  Do this a few different places.

Wait a few days.  Then check the test strips.  If the moisture is on the room side of the plastic, you have a high humidity-condensation problem.  If the moisture is under the layer of plastic, between it and the wall, then you have a moisture-through-the-wall problem, and you should look at your eaves and drainage around the outside of your house...


How do I fix a slow toilet flush? If I press the toilet handle or pour a bucket of water down the toilet, the water flows down slowly.  What can I do to find out the cause of the issue along with steps to fix it.

I've tried cleaning that little hole at the bottom of the bowl, still no success. Solids don't seem to flow down.

It fixed itself

After a day of not using the toilet, I flushed it. The water rose to the top then slowly goes down halfway in the bowl when suddenly, all of it got sucked out of the toilet.  It is now flushing properly after a couple of tries.

I live on the 17th floor of an apartment building.  Does anyone know what could have caused it to fix itself?

From a similar question's answer

  If the toilet still drains slowly, then you have a blockage that may
  not be solved with a new toilet. It could be an improperly installed
  wax seal, perhaps the drain line isn't properly sized, or there's
  something that can be snaked out. It's also possible you could have a
  venting issue, but I'd expect bubbles, gurgling, or bad smells with
  your other plumbing if that were the case.


Is it OK to use solid oak flooring on top of a plywood subfloor in my shed? I have leftover solid oak wood flooring that I'd like to use in my new shed, applied to a plywood base.  We live where our winters are mainly rain.

Man I hate saying this because I just love when people reuse things and even the bigger bonus for using it in a creative way but I personally wouldn't.  Sounds like you have a lot of leftovers.  I would try to use them elsewhere in the house or sell them for others to use.

My problem with putting it in a shed is that the oak planks don't handle water well, it isn't an easy install (for a shed), it will look dirty really quick (lots of cracks), and as the other answer points out you will need to put a few coats of poly (2 not enough in my opinion for outdoor use).

Now if this shed is merely a very nice room not in the house I could see it, maybe.  Given that you will keep dirt and moisture out.  If it is a true shed that will house tools, garden equipment, pottery, and things like that then I think the oak flooring is impractical.  Also it would be a shame if you laid this down and it started buckling on you due to changes in temperature, humidity, water/gas/oil spills...  I see high risk with little reward given that the shed is used for what most sheds are used for.


Why is there a 2" step down into my bathroom? Why is there a 2 inch step down into my 1931 bathroom?  The bathroom floor is 2 inches below the floor just outside the bathroom door.  It is the original floor in the bathroom as well as the floor outside the bathroom.

Because when you pour water or want to wash bathroom, water will not leak to the dry part of home near the door.


Should I turn the water off to my home during a winter absence? I will be leaving my home for three months, during winter, where I can expect the weather to go below freezing.

My question is if I should turn off the main water valve in my house or just to the sinks, toilets, etc?  If I should turn of the main valve, should I also turn of the hot water heater, and if so, are there any precautions I need to take (i.e. drain the tank)?

I plan to keep the heat on while away.  My last extended trip, I came home to find my toilet drain had sprung a leak and my downstairs kitchen was flooded.  I would like to avoid this issue in the future.  But, I have also been told to prevent freezing of pipes, I should keep the water on and slowly dripping.  Not sure if it matters, but I think most of my pipes are PVC.  I also have no sump pump.

Wow, this got long but after 2 times replacing pipes and a toilet in a detached garage this is what I learned to do many years ago. After that we have not had problems, but we're in a warmer climate now....

If you turn the water off please turn the power off to the water heater or if gas turn it to pilot. If there will be no heat at all and your area gets below 27 to 28F it would be a good idea to drain the water heater. Turn the main water supply off, or if on a well drain the pressure tank first, then open the sinks, flush the toilets and last open the outside hose bibs or faucets. This will pull as much of the water out of the pipes possible and even if the water in the pipes freeze there won't be solid water to expand and break the pipes.

This is what I found on exterior water lines in out buildings that were not heated with -23F and a wind chill of -80+ or cold enough to toss a hot cup of coffee 5-6 feet and it hit the wall like a shlushie (don't do this with white walls because we thought it was fun did it maybe a dozen times on the detached garage the next spring I had to repaint that side of the garage from the big brown spots but it was fun).

So if unheated drain water turn power off flush toilets and you should be ok. It took me 2 years to get it right but no problems after that.


How do I get rid of the sulphur smell from cold water only in one sink? In my powder room only, I have a strong sulphur smell that comes out of my cold water faucet only.  I have a water filtration system for my house but only have this problem in one sink.  I have changed the flexible hose and it went away for about three months but returned.  Could it be the copper pipe or the faucet?  Please help!

(click to enlarge images)

To further diagnose this, get a glass and fill it with cold water, then smell it away from the sink, if it stinks, you most likely have an anaerobic bacteria colony in the piping near that particular sink. It smells like sulfur.  I've had that problem in my house (well water) repeatedly.  I finally think I got it all and haven't had the problem in a few years now.
The fix is bleach.  It doesn't need to be full strength, about 20% solution (1 part bleach 4 parts water). I bought a small pump and a new trash can for the purpose.   Fill the clean, new trash can about 1/3 full and put in a gallon of bleach. Then turn off the water to the house. connect the pump to an outdoor hose bib, You'll likely need a female-female hose adapter.  Then turn on the pump and run cold water until you can smell bleach. Then turn the pump off and let the bleach solution set for a few hours. Since you have only one sink affected, I wouldn't bother with other fixtures, but that's up to you.
After a few hours, turn the water back on for the house and run the cold water. Don't be surprised if you see a bunch of heavily discolored, even black, water come out of the tap. In extreme cases you might have to remove and clean the aerator. If you get heavily discolored water, that's confirmation that you had anaerobic bacteria colony.
Let the water run until it clears up and you don't smell bleach anymore.   You might get a bit of bleach smell for a few days, but it will go away.
Don't run any hot water when doing this because you'll pull the bleach solution in the HW tank and it takes forever for it to flush out (don't ask me how I know this).
A few caveats:  If your hose bib has any sort of backflow prevention this setup won't work and you'll have to find some other way of introducing the bleach solution into your plumbing.
When turning on the water again, just to be safe, run all the cold water taps at some time in case the bleach solution went to some of the branch lines.
Again, don't run any hot water taps during this process.
If you have a hot water recirc pump, turn it off.  They don't like being without pressure.
Also, this is just a guess on my part on what's causing your problem, but it sure sounds a lot like what I experienced. If you aren't comfortable doing the above procedure, you should probably get a plumber to help.


Resonance in pipes, heating system I have resonance in the heating system pipes. Touching the pipes near the boiler (natural gas) pump I can feel ever so slight vibration, most detectable by touching the pump motor.
Background: About a week ago I took advantage of warm weather to replace some components of my heating system (Raytherm 134 WT natural gas boiler, Armstrong S-25 pump with MF/BF bearing assembly, and motor - 1750 rpm).
The components replaced:

Watts EXT-30 Expansion Tank (12PSI)
Watts 335-M2 PRV (preset to    30PSI)
Watts 9D Backflow Valve
Watts 1156f Pressure Regulator (preset    to    15 PSI, turned down
to 12 PSI)
I also changed the flange gaskets and the body gasket on the pump.
Bled the radiators.

Cold system pressure is 12PSI. Running pressure, after 1 week of bitterly cold sub-freezing temps, is just under 20 PSI, boiler temperature under 150F.
The bearing assembly is about 2 months old (old one was leaking oil), the motor probably 30 yrs, but ran quietly before the updates). There is some very faint noise from around the pump/bearing/motor, but I can't determine which (the impeller?).
I don't recall there being any resonance / vibration prior to the above updates, I think it only appeared after weather changed to cold after the updates. Any ideas how to tacle this? Any adverse effects if I leave it be (other than the somewhat annoying resonance)?

UPDATE: The resonance is still on. I replaced the Armstrong S25 pump with a wet rotor 3-speed Bell & Gossett NRF25. The difference is that I now have absolutely no detectable vibration, and the pump is extremely quiet by comparison (with the armstrong I could hear the impeller through my rads, whereas to hear BG NRF25 I have to press my ear to the pump.)

After NRF25 installation (yesterday afternoon), and later before bedtime, I'd swear I heard no resonance. But some 12 hours later, the next morning, it's back on. The sound pitch changes depending on the pump speed selection. Low tone on speed 1, and higher pitches on speeds 2 and 3. Speed 3 also introduces water flow sounds into the system, and not surprisingly since it is faster than my furnace specs require, however I don't need it this fast, and run it at 1.

I purged the system of air. Have no vibrations. No hammering. No banging. Only the humming / resonance, and only on the ground floor and basement (where furnace and pump are located), no detectable sound on the second floor. The humming is somewhat similar to flourescent bulb running loud. I think, but only think, that it is present mostly at elbows where horizontal pipes in the basement turn to the vertical leading to ground floor rads. No hummming / resonance at furnace.

Where should I look next?

I suspect that you have a warrantee issue with the Armstrong pump.  Sounds like yours has a bad bearing or out-of-balance coupler, it happens. Normally these pumps are quiet and reliable. I wouldn't let this slide.  I suspect that the pump will experience a significantly shortened life if left in service.  FYI, there is a new class of hydronic pump on the market today.  I think it is superior to this type of pump.  They are call 'Wet Rotor'circulators or 'wet rotor' pumps.  They are actually quieter and more reliable than this style of pump. The cost is similar. And they experience fewer service issues.  Most of the major manufacturers offer this new style. Taco makes a good one and Grundfos too, however all of the major manufacturers make good products.


Connecting 12ga wire to 14ga that is connected to 15 amp breaker I have a ceiling fan and 1 porch light that is connected directly  to a 15 amp breaker. It was installed using 14-2 wire. Then, I have a small basement area that has a 1 light and 4 outlets that I want to power with the same circuit breaker, but this room was wired with 12-2 wire and was covered with finished walls. Question: Can the 12-2 wire be connected to the 14-2 wire, in a junction box, to power the basement.  The 12-2 won't be connected to the 15 amp breaker, the 14-2 will be.

Yes as long as the breaker is sized for the smallest wire in the circuit you can use a larger gauge and it will even pass inspection. Many of us frown on using smaller wire when the connection in the panel is a larger wire because some one may up size the breaker seeing #12 in the panel not realising there is #14 in the branch some place down the line. But 14 in the panel on a 15 amp breaker going to additional devices wired with #12 is legal. I have done this on lighting circuits when I ran out of 14.


painting a cork floor (previously coated with polyurethane varnish) Our cork kitchen floor has a white stain and coated with 3 coats of polyurethane varnish two years ago. But the varnish has begun to wear through and the cork colour is visible.

We were never happy with the way the stained cork looked and now would like to paint over the floor with a solid colour.

What kind of paint should we use?

Should we be concerned that the cork is ever so slightly "squishy" and has a bit of "give", will a hard brittle paint crack under these conditions?

will there be any problems with painting over the previous varnish coating?

I honestly do not think painting a floor would be a good idea. A solid color paint or stain will likely chip and wear unevenly. As in wherever your high traffic areas are will look awful in no time at all.

If you are to paint it you will need to sand the gloss of the previous coating. This glass will prevent any other paints or stains from correctly adhering to the surface. The same exact rule applies to painting a glossy wall or any other surface.


New GFCI outlet; green light is on but no power I installed a new GFCI outlet with an one that was working. I wired it exactly as the older one and it isnt working. The green light is on but no power? I reversed the wires and no light. I replaced it back with the old one and it works.... I purchased a 3 pack of GFCI outlets and tried all 3 of them. None of them work but the old one does... Im stumped and need some suggestions. Thanks

The key is that is the Leviton GFCI is lit green from the start it means its wired wrong. Counter-intuitive but true. Had the same problem and some searches finally told me this. I switched both sides top to bottom and bottom to top, and the light flashed red and then went off. Reset it and it went green and THEN I had power. Guess Leviton is wired opposite of others. Remember though, don’t switch left to right...just top to bottom. Black to brass, white to silver.

Just to help clarify: Read where the live and load are on the old unit and which wires go where, then read where live and load are located on the new unit and wire it the same.


How can I add a circuit breaker when there are no openings available in the neutral bus bar? I'm trying to add a 20 amp circuit breaker into my existing main panel. The main panel has one vacant slot to put the breaker, but the neutral and ground bars have no more vacant slots. My question is this -- can I hook up the new neutral and ground wires to an existing slots? Meaning if the slots are already being used by another breaker, can I also hook up my new neutral and ground wires into these slots since there are no more available slots? I also see that the neutral and ground wires are all mixed up on the two bars. I'm saying that neutral wires and ground wires are not hooked up seperately from the two bars. I guess they're okay if done in the main panel.

NEC 2008
110.14 Electrical Connections. (A) Terminals. Connection of conductors to terminal parts shall ensure a thoroughly good connection
without damaging the conductors and shall be made by means of pressure
connectors (including set-screw type), solder lugs, or splices to
flexible leads. Connection by means of wire-binding screws or studs
and nuts that have upturned lugs or the equivalent shall be permitted
for 10 AWG or smaller conductors. Terminals for more than one
conductor and terminals used to connect aluminum shall be so
identified.

So if more than one conductor can be placed under a lug, it must say so somewhere on the panel (or in the panel documentation).

408.3 Support and Arrangement of Busbars and Conductors. (D) Terminals. In switchboards and panelboards, load terminals for field
wiring, including grounded circuit conductor load terminals and
connections to the equipment grounding conductor bus for load
equipment grounding conductors, shall be so located that it is not
necessary to reach across or beyond an uninsulated ungrounded line bus
in order to make connections.

If you have a bus bar on each side of the panel like in the diagram above, you should not connect the neutral to one bus and the ground to the other.  Neutral and ground from all circuits on the left should go to the left bus bar, and Neutral and ground conductors from the right should go to the right bus bar.

408.41 Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that
is not also used for another conductor.
Exception: Grounded conductors of circuits with parallel conductors shall be permitted to terminate in a single terminal if the terminal
is identified for connection of more than one conductor.

So if the panel allows multiple conductors under a lug, you can terminate multiple equipment ground conductors under a single lug.  However, you cannot use a single lug for multiple grounded conductors (neutrals), or a mix of equipment ground and grounded (neutral) conductors.
Here's why you can't have multiple neutrals in a single terminal.

Multiple neutral conductors in a single termination create a
significant problem when the circuit needs to be isolated. In order to
isolate  the circuit, the branch breaker is turned off and the neutral
is disconnected  by removing it from the terminal. If the terminal is
shared with another  circuit, the connection on the other (still
energized) circuit will be loosened  as well. Loosening of the second
neutral (loss of neutral) under load is a  safety hazard, and may
establish an overvoltage condition on lighting and  appliances if the
neutral is part of a 120/240 Vac multi-wire branch circuit. Source

And this is why you can't have a neutral and a ground in a single terminal.

The connection of a neutral and equipment-grounding conductor in the
same termination creates a similar issue. One of the objectives of the
particular arrangement of bonding jumpers, neutrals and equipment
grounds is to allow circuit isolation while keeping the equipment
grounding  conductor still connected to the grounding electrode (see
UL 869A -  Reference Standard for Service Equipment). When the neutral
is  disconnected, the objective is to still have the equipment ground
solidly  connected to the grounding electrode. If both the neutral and
grounded  conductor is under the same terminal, this cannot be
accomplished.
Source

You can , however, have both grounded conductors (neutrals) and equipment ground conductors connected to the same bus bar in the main service panel if the grounded conductor bar/bus (neutral bar) is bonded to the equipment ground bar/bus (it's different if you are dealing with a sub-panel, since the bar/bus will not be bonded).
Long story short
You'll have to check the panel documentation to determine if multiple conductors can terminate under a single lug. If they can. You can connect a couple equipment ground conductors to a common terminal, which should free up enough space to add the breaker.
NOTE: This only applies to bus bar terminals, most breakers are not rated to be "double tapped". So you should never have two conductors under a single breaker lug.


How to fix toilet spacing doesn't meet minimum 15"? Basement bathroom - for my quilting studio and guest suite. this will not be used regularly all year round.

I had to put a 1' filler along the wall for the linen cabinet to get the door fully open, and 1/2" filler strip between the linen cabinet and vanity for the drawers to clear, and that makes the toilet spacing from vanity to drain center about 13 1/2"; code minimum is 15". The other side of the toilet has 20.5" spacing to the tub. So the total space for the toilet is 34"- just not centered in that area. It looks like I could use an offset toilet flange, but the flange has already been installed, and it is not an offset. the toilet is narrow - the tank lid is 18" wide, so there is plenty of room for it.

Questions:

Should I talk with the inspector and see if he will pass it as is? the risk is that he won't and I need to figure out a fix.
Should I proceed with finishing and hope the inspector will just glance and say okay?
The toilet flange is already installed, and I understand to change that to an offset flange to gain the 1 1/2" spacing to meet code, will need to jack hammer out the existing flange or replace the custom vanity/linen cabinet which has been its own little fiasco.
Someone suggested putting in a smaller cheap vanity just for the inspection, then change it out to the custom one. Kind of cheating, but I am just not sure what to do !

It reads like you have already answered your own question: either get rid of the vanity or move the toilet flange over, if you need to abide by a toilet side clearance code.

Google "offset toilet flange" for hundreds of hits, including Amazon and the big box stores.

It may be easier and better drainage to just place a new (straight) flange where you want it. A jack hammer would be overkill. A 1/2" hammer-drill will do on the concrete basement floor.


Circuit breaker trips every couple of weeks I have a 15A circuit breaker in my electrical box tied to the media room.  Every couple of weeks, it trips.

I bought an amperage/wattage load tester.   Readings show 4 - 4.5A total in my media room...way under 15A.  I suspect a malfunctioning device.  To complicate matters, the tester can only read certain devices. I don't know if I have accurate readings.

The tester does not store max load over time.  It only gives instantaneous readouts.  I can't stare at the tester for weeks hoping for a problem to occur.

Losing power to my projector is bad.  AFAIK there are no ceiling mount UPS devices either.  Is there a tool to help me narrow the problem down to a specific device?

The only interesting information here is how many amps were being pulled on the circuit at the time the breaker popped. Breakers actually trip on heat, and a sign of a malfunctioning breaker is random inexplicable opening (tripping).

You could get yourself an Amprobe and watch it while a 'helper' turns things on and off and simulates normal activity in the room to see, however more than likely one of two things is going on:

You have a bad breaker, just get it replaced
Something (sump pump, maybe?) is also on that circuit, coming on weekly and tripping it

So, if you go the Amprobe route, you have to be there just at the right time to catch it. The event causing the breaker to trip might be happening fast enough for the tester you have not to notice it.

Replace the breaker (or have it replaced) first and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't - figure out what's coming on at that interval that might be causing it. If the problem persists and nothing is suspect, have an Electrician take a good look at it, you probably have feeder somewhere that comes into contact with ground randomly.


Mounting TV on Faux Veneer I just bought a house that has a stone fireplace but the facing was actually covered up with faux veneer. I want to hang up my 65 inch TV on it, how would I go about that?  any help is appreciated!

Bad idea overall to mount a TV up high over a fireplace. Just do a search here and you will find many answers discouraging this for a multitude of reasons. Key among the reasons is based upon the fact the best viewing of a TV is pretty much straight onto its screen. In addition, for your physical health the best viewing position is sitting and looking straight ahead rather than trying to stare up at an angle.
I have heard folks say that they have regretted ever having hung a TV up over a fireplace. Do yourself a favor and get a TV console with an inbuilt mount post at the back to which you can attach your tilt TV bracket. Enjoy the convenience of being able to move the whole thing around when a decision is made to reorganize the room layout, change furniture or you are sick of the TV location. You will also be glad you did not do a big disfigurement of the faux veneer around your fireplace unit.


How to build attic space in garage I have a garage with a peaked roof supported by 2x6 trusses spaced at 48". I want to insulate the attic space.

How should I proceed?

I'm planning to toenail 2x4s perpendicular to the trusses (spaced at 24"), then install  a vapor barrier and sheetrock (on the underside of the trusses). Finally, I'll add insulation on top of the trusses.

I'll have a single trap door for entry into the attic.

Am I missing anything?

If you're placing 2x4s between the trusses, it's fairly easy to face nail them (at a slight angle where necessary), rather than toenailing, which often results in splits and less penetration. Either is fine if done carefully.

You may be better off using 2x10 joists for your floor, and notching them over the trusses to flush the bottoms for the ceiling drywall, or maybe hang them between with joist hangers.

Step one is to verify that your truss system is designed to handle the additional load of storage. Do you have the original spec sheets? Be very careful about loading the truss system with more than a few hundred extra pounds on the bottom chords,and be sure to distribute the load. Even if the trusses as a whole can carry the load, the bottom chords and their attachments may not be up to the task.

Then, you'll need floor joists at no more than 24" centers, depending on the floor sheathing you intend to use. These probably will be toenailed. They'll likely run directly above your furring strips.

Finally, you'll need to work out how to insulate with framing running two directions. I envision R-19 laid parallel to the trusses, and maybe R-19 or better running perpendicular, between the floor joists.


Is it acceptable to combine and then split two air ducts? I have a small older house that had wall stack ductwork running from the basement to the upper level at two different points.  I have installed a beam in place of the wall and will be combining the two ducts into one and then branching/splitting it/them back to their original venting locations in the rooms/ hall.  I realize that math/volume considerations don't equal out, however, I'm not sure how essential this is as it's an older home with various flaws.  I'm writing to see if this is something that folks would consider a big time don't do it.... Before i do it... Thoughts?

Combining 2, 3-1/4x12 ducts into one would require a  duct 8 x 8 or 9" round. If this isn't the answer you need let me know.


Electrical 'input' connector? So, this is maybe a goofy thought. Here's the situation:

Putting the final finishing touches to our propane fireplace insert. The insert has an outlet built-in for a circulating fan if in the future that is desired. This is hardwired and should be connected to a junction box. I have no immediate need for this, so may just remove it, but I also thought that it'd be nice to future proof it for the next owner.

The catch is that there is no easy way to get the electrical to a junction box short of drilling through thick brick. However, I am running a switch from the fireplace to the side of the fireplace surround (which is wood) so I got to thinking...

Is there such thing as an 'electrical input' connector. The idea being one could run a cord from the outlet on the wall next to the fireplace to this 'input connector' on the side of the fireplace which in turn would power the outlet built in.

My guess is: of course not, this is a crazy product idea that would likely lead to deaths. But it never hurts to ask, right?

(PS, the back up idea is to just run it to a junction box on the side of the fireplace, and put a cover on it. If in the future anyone really wants to use it, they can take it from there and figure out how to get that to a powered junction box elsewhere.
)

Yes, the sort of thing you are looking for exists; you can find them under the name inlet (opposite of outlet). The most commonly seen type is the C14 socket used on computer power supplies, but ones compatible with regular AC extension cords are also available.

(I'm not able to tell you whether using one in this application would be safe or code-compliant, so this doesn't fully address your question, but I hope knowing what it's called will help.)


Best way to fill gaps between flooring panels evenly For some reason, on the floor of the apartment all horizontal joints have gaps like the picture at the bottom (Vertical joints are fine). This causes unpleasant sensation when I put my bare skin on it, and it leaves marks on my skin. (Asia. No carpet, no shoes; just bare skin) It is not my building so that I cannot completely redo the floor, but just amend the problem.
What is the best way to fill such gaps but fill it evenly? The very first thought that came up in my head was using those silicone glue, but I am afraid it would make a bulge like the first image below. I want it to be flat and even like the second image, so that it would not leave marks on my skin.

I'd strongly recommend talking to the landlord to see if he will fix the improperly installed laminate flooring.
If he refuses, but gives you permission (I'd get it in writing, just to be sure) to make a permanent change to the apartment, I'd recommend a two step process:

Squeeze some caulk (clear or matching color if you can find it) into the gaps.

Silicone will probably last longer than an acrylic/latex and is more likely to be available in a clear "color".
You'll need to barely cut open the tip of the tube - you'll want a very fine bead so you can get it to go into the gaps, not just sitting on top.
You may need to use your finger or a plastic tool (a plastic spoon would work well) to push the caulk into the gap.
Check the tube for the specific curing time for the caulk you purchase. It may say that it's paintable in 20 minutes - that's not what you're looking for. You don't want the minimum set time, you want it to be pretty well done. It will probably be 24-hours or longer.
As you pipe the caulk in, you will get a ridge above the surface, that's where step 2 comes in.

Using a sharp razor blade, very carefully cut the excess caulk off the surface.

Hold the blade 90° to the gap you've filled and nearly flat to the floor. I'd suggest holding the blade as flat to the floor as you possibly can - the goal is to cut off the excess caulk, not cut the floor.
You want to cut along the length of the gap you've show ("horizontally" as you've described it), not along the width of the gap. The edges of the blade should be on either side of the gap, parallel to the nice tight joints that you're not fixing.
Push it along the gap to cut the bead that's sticking up.
Note that if you move the blade side-to-side in a cutting motion, you could cut into the surface of the laminate causing more damage than you're fixing.
Note that if you hold the blade too steeply to the floor, you could cut into the surface of the laminate causing more damage than you're fixing.
You might pull up some caulk. If this happens your blade probably isn't sharp anymore, go grab a new one (blades are cheap compared to the labor of re-fixing, don't hesitate to replace more frequently than less frequently), then redo the caulk for this portion. I'd save all the "re-dos" for the end, you may have more than one spot to repair.

Note that if you use silicone, it will leave a slightly greasy feeling anywhere it touches. Any amount of silicone that gets into the texture of the floor instead of just into the gap will be difficult to get out of the texture. It will wear off over time, but I'm not sure exactly how to define "time" - it could be a matter of a couple of days for high traffic area to months or more. The caulk is, after all, designed to stick to a variety of surfaces and not come off - that's how it does its job of sealing. It's possible probable that after it's fully cured (a few days) you'll be able to rub this thin coat off using a finger or pencil eraser.
I'm not quite sure how slippery it will actually be underfoot, but if you're sensitive enough to feel these gaps in the flooring (I can definitely understand that), you're probably sensitive enough to feel the greasy feeling and may not like the result.
Note that both silicone and acrylic/latex caulks will have an odor to them. They're not horrible nor toxic (check the tube, just to be sure), but you will want some ventilation. Open windows and turn on fans blowing air out of the apartment while you're working and as long after as you can. I just did some fresh silicone caulking around my tub and it took about 14 hours for the odor to disapate enough that I couldn't detect it - other family members couldn't smell it earlier than that. If you have a sensitive nose, you might smell it for up to a week. Acrylic/latex caulks will be similar.


Using 10-2 vs. 12-2 for wiring I am considering using 10-2 to wire the opposite side of my house because of 12-2 voltage drop over 60ft distance. My house is 54x58 (see blueprint below). I called up Leviton and tech support says that their receptacles can handle from 14 to 10 gauge wire in the terminals.

REFERENCE:
http://home.leviton.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/RER15-Instruction-Sheet.pdf

If i do go this route:
   1. I'll have continuous runs of wiring without interruptions
   2. not much voltage drop as compared to 12-2
   3. Saves me time and money (2-2-2-1 SER runs for about $7/ft, i'll need around 70ft.

Any suggestions or is there something i am not considering?

You need to verify your box fill #10 wire uses a 2.5 multiplier. You only have to count 1 ground wire, add up all the other wires in the box and multiply by 2.5 then add 5 for the device. If using boxes with clamps another 2.5 added to to the above will provide the minimum listed box size. The size in cubic inches required by code that is stamped on the box. Be aware that measuring the box and multiplying the length, width and depth gives a larger number than the listed size in table 314.16.A.


How to secure plywood wall panels with hidden fixings We've got a new 3000 x 3000mm partition wall that we'd like to fix birch plywood panels to. The panel size would be 800 wide, 600 high and I'm trying to figure out how to best fix them to the stud work.

Here are some visual examples:

I've seen many visual examples on Pinterest but no explanation for how they've actually been achieved. Our builder's only suggestion has been to fix with countersunk screws and use woodfiller but he's agreed it would probably ruin the aesthetic.

I've looked at hidden fixings such as buttonfix: http://button-fix.com/ but they work out quite expensive as I'd presumably need 4 per panel for a secure fix. My only other thought is to use flush mirror fixings but not sure if that would be secure enough once we attach lights and sockets.

If you use 3/4" plywood and not a veneered MDF you could drill a small pilot hole for trim head screws.

It will leave a hole about 3/16" in diameter that will need to be filled after the panels are stained/sealed. That is the best simple way to do it. Even simpler would be to use finish nails. They would leave a hole to fill of about 1/8". The lengths of thew screws or nails are entirely dependent on the material you are going through.

The joints between the panels could be done like a T&G arrangement but will cost plenty over a simple "floating tongue" or spline joint. This will control the movement between panel joints that do not fall on a stud or other suitable backing.

Another way is going the "european hanger" way. It has no visible fasteners, but takes up space behind the panel. As much as 3/4" to as little as 3/8", maybe 1/4", depending on your budget.


Can dryer ducting be placed near gas line? We are reconfiguring the laundry room on the main level of our house in Toronto, Canada. There is an existing exterior dryer vent but it is on the oppsite side of the room where the dryer will now be located. The mechanical room is directly below the laundry area.

One option that allows us to reuse the existing vent is to run the duct from the dryer through the floor into the mechanical area, across the room under the joists and then up through the floor and ultimately connect to the existing vent.

As you can see from the picture below (only shows a portion of the duct from the floor above - the horizontal section has not been connected) the ducting will end up being fairly close to the gas supply line that enters the mechanical room from outside. Is this an issue and are there any rules for how far apart they need to be?

Any pointers or tips are greatly appreciated. Thx

Canada may have different rules but it is fairly common to see dryer exhaust vents routed next to gas lines in a garage normally the vent is really not that hot.


Will I lose water pressure going from a 2" pipe to a 1/2" pipe then back to 2"? I have jimmied up a pool heater from an idea on YouTube, but just expanded it.  I have a water line of 2" PVC, piped down to 1/2" copper, so it can run through a coil, then increased back to 2" PVC, and re-connected with the original pool hose of 2".

Will this keep the constant pressure that it starts with, or will I lose water pressure. It seems to have lost pressure, trying to get back into the 2" inch hose. Any suggestions?

I believe the pressure loss depends on the flow rate. There will be some loss of pressure.

To avoid it you need 2" copper pipe or multiple parallel 1/2" pipes (probably more than 16).


Sealing threaded PVC pipe What is recommended for Connecting 1" Schedule 80 PVC threaded fittings to prevent leaks. I have tried pipe dope, but leaks developed between nipples and elbows. Do you have any suggestions.

We use liquid sealant all the time with great success at 1-1/2" diameter and less.

Make sure you are coating the threads completely and evenly.
Some dopes require coating both male and female ends over certain sizes.
Maybe try a different brand.
Might just use teflon tape instead.
Plumber we know for a large local company uses teflon (to seal) and
pipe dope (to lubricate) at the same time although we do not practice
the same.
If these don't work, look at your threads and make sure they do not
have a scratch or nick in them.


What part is faulty when a pneumatic nail gun does not leak any air, is not jammed, but does not fire? I have a Porter Cable DA250C (15ga angle finishing nailer).

Worked fine yesterday until it just stopped. The gun does nothing at all when the trigger is depressed. It is not jammed. The piston is oiled and I can move it smoothly with my finger.

All the troubleshooting guides and other people posting online about nail guns always mention air leaking from somewhere. But, in my case, there is no air leaking at all. It just acts like it is not plugged in. But there is definitely air going in, it just does nothing when the trigger is pulled. There is no sound and nothing moves.

I took it apart, but nothing looks visibly damaged. Any idea which part may be faulty? Is there a test I can try to determine the problem?

It was the trigger valve. There was no visual damage or noticeable leaking, and I took it apart and everything seemed fine. But I ordered a new trigger valve and replaced it anyway, and it fixed the problem. Hopefully this helps someone else, since there was nothing noticeably wrong with the faulty part.


Suggestions for treehouse platform support without posts I'm building a treehouse in a fully grown 50 foot tree that has four trunks (as it were) each of which is between a half foot to a foot in diameter.  First, is this a good candidate for a small tree house (5x5 platform) that will be attached directly to the tree?  If so, does anyone have any recommendations for supports in a configuration like that.  I have some ideas but I wanted to get the opinions of people who have experience in contracting and even treehouse building.

The Treehouse Guide is a pretty comprehensive resource. It covers topics from picking out the tree to building code adherence.


Why does my new switch keep tripping the breaker? I am attempting to enable a light switch in a bedroom that had the wiring but had no ceiling light fixture and no switch (just a blank plate).  However, I am running into an issue and I want to seek some help from those more experienced.

In the ceiling I have 5 wires - 2 white, 2 black, 1 red (and, of course ground).  In the switch box there is a cable that goes up to the ceiling that has 1 white, 1 black and 1 red.  There is also another cable that goes down to an outlet.  It has 1 black and 1 white.  Currently the red is capped off, the two black wires are joined and two white wires are joined together.

I wired the switch by creating a rabbits ear for the black and connected it to switch.  I created a rabbits ear for white and connected it to the switch.

In the ceiling I added the white cable of the light to the grouping of 2 white cables and did the same for the black cables.  The light was on but would trip the breaker within seconds.

I am using a single-pole Lutron switch.

You have a new-style switch loop -- the current (2014) NEC now requires switch loops to have a neutral, not just a hot and a switched.  Switch the black and red wires on the light, and the white and red wires on the switch -- this means the light goes to red and white, and the switch goes to black and red, with the white wire in the switch box capped off with a wirenut.

(The reasoning behind the new requirement is to allow future timers, dimmers, and other such "smart" switching devices to be designed in a more sane manner where they can draw power for their own operation in a normal way, instead of trying to turn their load on slightly at all times or sending that working current back through the equipment grounding system.)


Help with sink install I am installing a stainless steel work sink. I researched as much as I could. Are these the parts and materials I need for this install? I have FlowGuard Gold, which is CPVC I believe. I believe the drain pipe is 1 1/2".
    2 Keeney Brass 1/2-in FIP x 3/8-in Compression Quarter Turn Angle Valve
    2 Charlotte Pipe CPVC Adapter
    1 Christy's PVC Pipe Cement and Primer 8-fl oz PVC Cement and Primer
    1 Oatey 0.6-in x 43-ft Plumber's Tape
    1 Keeney 1-1/2-in Plastic Sink Trap J-Bend
    1 Keeney Brass 1/2-in FIP x 3/8-in Compression Quarter Turn Angle Valve
    1 IRWIN 1.5-in Multipurpose Pipe Cutter
    1 Christy's PVC Pipe Cement and Primer 8-fl oz PVC Cement and Primer

Turn off water
turn on faucets to drain water
cut existing pipe
apply primer then apply glue and install adapters

This look like a solid plan to you guys? Anything I am missing?

If your wall pipe is 1 1/2" and you're installing 1 1/2", you'll want some kind of non-glue coupling (seriously, don't glue that tail piece on). There's one in the drain section for slip-joint coupling, but if you don't care about aesthetics ( I have mine in a cabinet so it's not a big deal to me, but I can't tell if this would be exposed or not), I prefer the rubber couplers from the PVC line aisle (they hold the pipe better). The catch there is that the rubber couplers are sized for inside diameter, while your thinner PVC drain parts are sized for outside diameter (they're so thin the ID and OD are practically the same). So you would buy a 1 1/2" coupler in the white PVC next to your drain stuff, but you would (confusingly) buy a 1 1/4" coupler in rubber because the OD is 1 1/2".
Skip the CPVC adapters, primer and glue. I would also skip the compression fittings and just buy a push connector (i.e. Sharkbite). I found them to be about $1-2 more than their compression counterparts, and for one sink you'll save more than that skipping all that CPVC stuff you'd waste. Plus there's no hassle. Just cut, push and you're done (you might only need the water off for 5 mins tops like this). And the push connectors are likely to be the superior quarter-turn ball valves, which are far easier to operate.


What are my options for ensuring that water pressure doesn't drop in the top floors when taps in the lower floors are opened? In many multi-storied buildings, I've noticed that the water pressure in the top floor taps reduces drastically when the taps on the lower floors are open.
I'm currently in conversations with the builder deciding on the plumbing for a house under construction. The water source is an overhead tank.

What options do I have for making sure that the water pressure in the top floor taps doesn't reduce when the taps on the lower floors are open?

Will separate outlet pipes from the overhead tank to each floor help?
If it is a single outlet pipe from the overhead tank, will reducing the diameter of the pipe as we go lower work?
The option being suggested by the builder right now is a pressure pump - is this the only option? I don't particularly like this because I trust gravity more than electronics, plus it feels like a waste of electricity as well.

Separate outlet pipes would do it, but pressure on the top floor will always be lower than pressure on lower floors, as it's closer to the tank level.


Flat non-concrete subsurface for outdoor rubber tile I have a 10' x 7'6" area of dirt over which I have installed 20"x20" 3/4"-thick rubber tile (Rubber-Cal Eco-Sport). The tiles are connected using inter-tile plastic pins-- there is no adhesive. I use the surface as an outdoor workout area.

The area was not at all level before tile installation, and I put a lot of effort into getting it as flat as I could using a hand-tamper and landscape rake. The result is OK, but definitely not as flat as I would like. I would like to remove the tile, flatten the area more, and reinstall it. I would also like to avoid pouring concrete.

I am unsure of the best way to proceed, since towards the end of my previous effort to level the dirt I was getting diminishing returns. It seemed very difficult to achieve a very flat plane on soil alone (this soil is somewhat clay-like). I am wondering whether if it might make sense to put in a few inches of a granular subsurface underneath my tile.

I have no experience with this sort of thing, so have been relying purely on internet research. I see many videos of people installing stone patio pavers over sand, but it's not clear to me why exactly this subsurface is used and whether it would be appropriate for my use case. As I said, I use the area for workouts so there is a good deal of impact and moving around on the surface. I am concerned that a granular subsurface might develop "dents" over time from, say, dropping a heavy weight.

What would be a good way to achieve a flatter subsurface for my tile? Should I put sand/gravel over the dirt? If so, how much should I use?

I have horses, we put down at least 4” of crushed quarry  or shale rock then use a plate compactor while watering it any low spots are filled and we get the areas quite flat then 3/4 rubber mats are put down. This usually holds up for about 5 years with even draft horses standing in the same spot (at the door with there head out) for hours a day our big boy weighs in at 1500+

If ours can hold up to this abuse it should be able to a person, a plate compactor will do a much better job than trying to do it by hand, add water and it really locks the crushed rock fines together. Note a compactor can be rented, also never use crushed river rock as it has partially round edges and never locks together like shale or crushed quarry will.


Why is my circulator pump heating my house? Our house had always had some latent heat coming through the vents even when they were turned off, which was causing the temperature to be pretty unbearable during the summer. One day, we heard something making a ton of noise in our garage, and we found the source was apparently a circulator pump, which we unplugged. After we did this, the heat from the vents disappeared, and it's been much cooler inside. However, the hot water no longer works with the pump off. Our landlord said he would replace the old pump, but we don't want the heat to come back. So my question:

Why is the circulator pump affecting the heating? From what I've read, it should just be pulling water out of the pipes, it's not clear to me why that would keep the heater hot all the time, even if it's heated by hot water.

Also, is there any way to have the circulator pump running but not heat the house at the same time? It sounds like the pump should save a lot of water, but we don't want to save water at the expense of the extra energy it's consuming and the heat it's putting out.

High probably you have non-insulated pipes or components in the area of the vent system.

If you do not want completely and professionally remounting the hot water pipe, you have various ways to reduce the heating of the air:

Insulate the hot water pipe as much as possible. There are suitable foamed insulations that can be easily pushed over pipes. But you have also to find suitable places in the ventilation duct for inserting.
What is the temperature of the hot water? You can set the temperature of the water to 55°C/131°F. Or lower if the system has automatic intermediate heating to combat of legionella.
Put a electric timer to the circulation pump. If you do not need hot water all day, you can limit the duration of the hot water pipes.


Are four brackets adequate for an 8-foot wire laundry shelf? I am purchasing wire shelving for an 8 foot wide concrete wall laundry. I will hang two 8 foot by 16 inches. Are 4 vertical wall brackets enough to support it? I understand I should space them every 24 inches. Is this correct? Do I really need the Hang Track, since I will be attaching the wall brackets with Tapcom 1 ¾”  screws?

I would say it all depends on how much weight you plan to put on the shelves.

Here are some "specs" on a site for Closet Maid Maximun hold 6' x 16" shelving.

Holds up to 600 lb. per shelf (total weight per 40 in. track not to exceed 900 lb.)

Weight should be distributed evenly across shelf.

Can be used with maximum load installation hardware (sold separately)

Installation in studs or concrete with standards and brackets (sold separately) no more than 16 in. apart

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMaid-Maximum-Load-6-ft-x-16-in-Ventilated-Wire-Shelf-73571/202104723


Removing random ticks at home This might not be the right forum for this kind of question, but I figured I'd ask anyway.  We're finding random ticks at home, maybe one a day, sometimes one every other day.  They look like the picture above (pen for scale).  Our house has 3 floors and I've found them on all floors (i.e., they don't keep to one floor).  We don't have any pets and we're barely going outside (pandemic and all...).

My questions are:

How big of an issue is this? Are these dangerous? We're expecting a newborn in a month, so we're trying to be as careful as possible.
How do I remove them?

Yes, they can carry Lime disease among other things. Be sure to do tick checks until you fix the problem.

Diatomaceous Earth is an excellent and relatively safe way to deal with them. The best place to put it is outdoors around the house so that they are dealt with there and before they come into your home. In your case, they seem to be random so it would be hard to target them indoors but you can place some of the DE in corners and on carpet and rugs and it will help get any stragglers.


What wire should I use for a sauna 100' away from the panel? I need to run a 220 line about 100ft from my breaker box to where the sauna be located.

The manual says for an 8 kw heater, 8-2 w/ground copper; 40 amp non GFCI breaker
But it also  says for distances “up” to 30 ft.....

So what if it’s 100?

Having run a few of these calculations, the break point is usually a little past 100' if you want to hold voltage drop below 3%.   However, for a resisitive heater, there is no reason to hold voltage drop below 3%. It is a waste of money.

Regardless, 8000 watts happens at 33.33 amps on US 240V* voltage.  The UL-approved product instructions call for 8 AWG wire.  Southwire's voltage drop calculator tells me those conditions at 100' run yield 1.92% voltage drop on 8 AWG.

If the hot tub failed on 2% power drop, there is no way UL, CSA or TUV would list it.

You're all set.

* power was 110/220 when AC power was first mass marketed in 1915-ish, and the term stuck. Today,  US voltage is 120/240.  Except in Puerto Rico, where it's 0!


Structurally required? I-beam support under stair opening header The stair opening into my basement is framed like this:

A partition wall (non-load bearing) sits on top of the header.

A square duct runs parallel to the header, and on the other side of this duct is an I-beam (3" x 3") supported in the center by a single adjustable steel column:

Two small bolts (maybe diameter #10 or 1/4"?) run through the column flange and I-beam to fasten them together. The column sits on top of the concrete slab floor. There are no seams anywhere in the floor -- if there is a footing beneath the column, it was put in before the floor was poured.

My house has many modifications that are clearly DIY. This whole beam and column have a very "DIY" appearance.

Between the stair opening header and tail joists (which are end nailed) there is maybe 1/4" separation (max). This may just be due to the header being rotated slightly. I believe the previous owner may have noticed the separation and installed the support as a preventative measure. Or maybe there were floor vibration issues? If it were done professionally, I would expect the support directly under the header -- not some 14" away on the other side of the duct -- and a footing poured beneath the column.

I did deflection calculations with both uniform load and joist-point-load models and got similar results -- a max header deflection of about L/600. Additionally, the stairway opening basically meets the prescriptive code in my area (Wisconsin UDC). It would be code compliant if the header and tail joists were supported by framing anchors instead of just end nailed (house was built late 60s).

So I am thinking the header/trimmers by itself should be sufficient. I would like to
1. Install framing anchors on the tail joists and header "to be safe" (and meet code)
2. Remove the I-beam and column because they are in the way.
Solution not feasible -- see edit below.

I will wind up hiring a structural engineer to confirm, but before I pay $$ to have one come out I wanted see whether I was missing something obvious. So does anyone see a reason for that I-beam and column?

Thanks!!

EDIT: Additional deflection calculations estimate 40psf live load trimmer deflection (w/o I-beam) at 0.4" or ~L/360. I am betting this much deflection in the girders caused vibration issues.

Columns at either end of the header would lower deflection of trimmers to ~L/774. That would be a suitable solution, but would require tearing up the slab for column footings. I don't know a lot about concrete, but I am guessing doing so may be the only proper solution? I would put a load bearing wall in below the header instead were it acceptable to spread the load on the slab, but I am guessing even spread out, a load bearing wall like this would require a footing?

2x8s aren't adequate for floor joists by modern standards, let alone for beams (even doubled). Someone probably added the steel beam and post due to floor bounce or sag. My former home had something nearly identical underneath where a fireplace was added.

I'd either leave it in place or bolster the doubled 2x8s that are along the duct with additional support in other ways:

Add another beam underneath them.
Replace them with a 3-1/2" laminated beam of the appropriate height (consult an engineer).
Add a post to halve the span. This would require adequate footing structure, of course.


Can I use my old service panel as a sub-panel when I install a new one? The main panel in my building is 100 feet from the where the feed wire comes in from the outside meter. Can I install a new 200 amp panel where the feed line comes in and use the existing wire to feed the old panel and change it to a sub panel?

Yes, you can do that. You will need to remove the nuetral->ground bonding screw from the subpanel. The new panel should have its neutral to ground bonded (unless that is already done at the power meter). You'll need to install a 100 A circuit breaker in the new panel (or higher, if the subpanel and wire are rated for the higher current) to feed the subpanel. You'll also need to make sure that you have a separate neutral and ground wire running from the main to the subpanel.


Should I remove wall plugs before filling a hole? When I leave my current apartment, I will have quite some holes in the walls to fill due to numerous shelves and such.
I know how to remove wall plugs, but I was wondering whether you should do it in the first place. I'm guessing it depends on the type of wall and the type of plug.

As the owner of a drywall repair company, I have fixed thousands of holes like this, and I prefer to slightly tap them in, or drive them in until just slightly recessed.  Then coat them like usual. The reason is if you fill an open hole the mud tends to droop back out as there's no backing.  And if it's all slightly recessed it fills better and tapers out better.  But you can fix it just by filling it, then tapping it in slightly, when it starts setting up, or just sand it down, then coat it some more.

If you want to see an actual video of this being done, contact me in private.  I post this because it's often easier to figure out how to do these things when you can see it happen, as verbal only goes so far.


Can I use a 23 W CFL in a fixture that's rated for a 60 W incandescent? I have a lamp that is rated at 60 Watts for an incandescent bulb with a disclaimer to use a 13 Watt bulb instead when using a CFL replacement. Do I really need to respect that disclaimer? Would not a 23 Watt CFL be just as safe to use? It still draws less power than a 60 Watt incandescent, right?

As far as I know, the only risk at issue here is of overheating of the bulb. The heat comes from two sources: the output and waste heat of the bulb, and from resistive heating of the fixture wires and switch and socket contacts. CFL bulbs draw less current and produce less heat for a given light output; however, they are far less tolerant of high temperatures!

Therefore, the rationale of the warning label may well be to warn that the fixture is not sufficiently ventilated for a CFL bulb above that power, even if the fixture is itself capable of surviving that amount of heat.

However, it is also quite possible that someone converted the "equivalent wattage" (which is a statement of light output and therefore almost completely irrelevant to power/heating) without thinking about it. I recently (2016) saw a lamp which had a claimed limit like "60W incandescent, 13W CFL, 7W LED". That's clearly just converting, and it's not going to be accurate for the wide variety of LED bulb types available.


Ceramic tiles on drywall on steel studs, any problems? I was told that there was no problem installing tiles on drywall hung on steel studs. I had never worked with drywall before and accepted that. Now after the wall is done, if I hit it, I noticed that it vibrates significantly.

Does that affect tiles installed on it? Like cracks in grout, etc?

PS: I'm in Brazil, drywall is kinda new here, and it is only done with steel studs, no wood.

Movement is the enemy of masonry of any type. In this case, it depends on a few factors. How much movement? How often does the movement occur? What products were used to install the tile? What size and type of tile?

If all you're asking is whether some cracking is likely to occur, the answer is yes. However, it may be negligible from an aesthetic standpoint. The severity depends on the things I mentioned.

If you're asking how you might prevent damage, that depends on whether the wall interior is still accessible. If so, consider adding stiffening members to reduce deflection. More studs, engineered wood, heavy steel, or other devices could stiffen the wall and reduce movement.


Adding C-Wire for Nest to Triple Aquastat Relay L8148J Need some extra eyes and advice on how to add a common wire to our current boiler setup. We have a Triple Aquastat L8148E that has 2 wire that connect to our thermostat. Like many before me, I'm trying to figure out how to connect a Nest to our boiler; I've already attempted with the 2 wires and the Nest is not holding a charge.

From what I've read, it sounds like I might need to add a 24v transformer and then a separate relay between the Aquastat and Nest. If I do this, do I just splice in the transformer on the power coming to the boiler (pictured).

Before I do all this, I'm wondering if I can add a c-wire on the Aquastat to the "TP" terminal since currently there is nothing connected to it? Does this terminal need to have 24v for a C-wire?

The "W" and "T" are the wires that run to our thermostat currently. The previous owner or HVAC person used 18/5, but cut the extra wires.

Here is the schematic that is under the lid for the Aquastat...not much of this makes sense to me so not sure if it's helpful for this question or not. Would appreciate any insight or explanations on what to do, thank you!

You should check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZJ2tch3_oc.  The B2 connector is the common connection for the 24V circuit of this relay.  It's based on the diagram for L8148J, so it may be not apply to the L8148E.


Would covering walls with a sound absorbing foam reduce the transmission of medium-high frequency fan noise? I have recently purchased a server-grade computer, which works great, however, it is now audible even through a closed door.

It is in a separate room, so I am thinking what are the best ways of sound-proofing it.

Does covering the walls with a sound-absorbing foam make sense?

My plan is to cover the area around the server, potentially also adding another partition of the sound-proof foam around the machine to further dampen the noise.

Any recommendations? The room is approx 2m by 1m, so quite a small one.

EDIT1&2:

Further advice suggests that a sound-dampening box around the server may be a good solution - what would be a good material to use? The noise producing machine is Dell 2950 (see link for example of the sound)

EDIT3:

I've taken a sample of the noise using my phone see image: noise spectrum. From what I can see, after the fans initially spin up, they settle down at just below 1kHz. Then, at the bottom is most likely the PSU fan, which spins normally at 4kRPM, half speed of the main fans. Hard to read the scale but I guess the main band is just over 0.1kHz. Although the colour may indicate similar pressure, the PSU fans are much less audible.

Easier than sound-proofing a room would be to build a sound-proof box for the server using the triangular foam. Since it's a rack-mount server, just building some ducts for the front and the back and lining the ducts with the triangular foam you linked to above may be enough.

An even better alternative might be to replace the system fans with low noise counterparts.


Installing new 125 amp panel in garage I am installing a 125 amp panel in my garage. We have 360 amp service to the meter, split into two, 200 amp on for the house and the other for the garage.

My question is what qauge/type cable do I need from my split panel to the 125 amp panel that is 75 feet away.

Table 310.15(B)(16) from the 2017 NEC provides the information you need:

Assuming a 75 degree temperature rating, you could get away with 1 AWG copper or 2/0 AWG aluminum or copper clad-aluminum.


If neutral carries current back to the breaker panel, why doesn't it need to be connected to a switch? I've got some limited field experience as an electrical helper, but no real classroom experience yet. (saving up for school)

I am of the understanding that the neutral wire carries electricity back to a breaker panel.

I generally wire switches, as instructed, as follows:

However, this doesn't make sense to me because if the switch is in the off position, how does the power return to the breaker panel? I assume it can't be flowing through the neutral because the path to the device is interrupted by the switch, thus the circuit is not complete.

Does it flow, instead, through the ground? I've been told that the ground should never have current unless there is a severe fault, at which point there is a problem that needs fixing.

Isn't the ground the only way the electricity would return to the breaker panel in the above wiring scheme?

The switch opens (turns off) the circuit, at which point electricity is not "flowing" through the circuit. The electricity flows to the first terminal on the switch, and then just sits there.  Think of it like a closed plumbing valve.  When the valve is closed, water flows to the valve, and then just sits there.  Once the valve is opened, the water can then flow through the plumbing.


How can I trim out a supply pipe passing through a tile floor against the toilet base? I need a recommendation for a product that I can use to hide where this pipe meets the floor in my bathroom.  There was a metal piece here but I had to cut it off since the new toilet comes so close to the pipe, it was hitting it.

I need some kind of piece that I can slide on from the side. It also needs to be very narrow or somehow not symmetrical to fit here.

Any ideas?

The simplest approach is to buy a solid round escutcheon and cut it to fit.

They come sized to fit different pipes, so take a measure of yours.

You would need to take off one side, just about to the edge of the hole, and then probably cut the hole to be a U shape, rather than round.

You could hold it on place with a few dabs of silicone sealer underneath.

  Images and links for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


Broken/busted main cast iron drain line have busted cast iron drainage (services kitchen sink, dishwasher and bar sink.  Have located area that is broken in wall behind bar sink but and not able to remove/replace pipe myself as the break is in the area that immediately goes under slab/foundation of house.  Anyone have ANY suggestions?

As others have suggested, it might be a good time to call a pro, but if you are going to handle it yourself, here is what you should do:

see if you have enough space above the slab to fit a rubber collar of the cast iron/pvc adapter. If this is the case, you should secure the cast iron pipe and cut it. Replace the section with PVC and put rubber adapters on both sides.

If you are not lucky and you don't have enough room, you have to break the slab (usually 4" max) and get to the sand/gravel layer. The main stack should make a 90 degree turn. You should place your cast iron to PVC adapter there. It is just as much work as it sounds like, but it can be done.


Breaker for pool heater can I put a double 50 amp pole in a 100 amp box

We can't speak you whether you CAN or not because we don't know anything about your capabilities. But will a 50A breaker plug into a 100A breaker panel? Of course. Do you have room for it physically? We don't know. Is the 100A panel already loaded so much that adding another 50A load will become a problem? We can't assess that from here.


Could a layman build a house from plans? i am looking at pre-made architectural house plans on the Internet ranging from 300 to 800 square feet, some multi-level.  I have no housebuilding experience. I don't imagine many of the millennials for which these are designed do..  I'm not even an engineer.

The question is: could a layman millennial like myself build something like this? Or would the cost of hiring builders and buying material rival that of buying a house that already exists?

If the answer is 'yes - you can do it!' maybe you'll humour me with a response to the below:

What would a shortlist of requirements for a simple own house build look like? Any good reading suggestions?

If I were to start looking for land on which to build a house from plans.  These are the two simple scenarios I imagine:

Off the grid. No where near a water main. This is a no go for me.
Water main under the ground that I would have to dig down to and pipe to the surface. Add pressure regulator, water meter etc. Assuming this is all I need. Or do people sell land designed for projects like this with some other 'pre-build' kind of plumbing set up I don't know about?

I'm basically thinking that the hardest part of building a house is the ol' plumbing and electricity.

What is the order of things then?

Dig a hole for the basement and foundation. Lay down some steel reinforced foundation footing and walls, a concrete slab. Dig another hole at the water main, pipe over my liquids and I'm good to go?

I used to have a teacher that said

  Anyone can do anything given enough time and instruction.

That being said every trade has a learning curve to acquire the skills and required tools to accomplish the task.

I am a Master Electrician and have been in the construction industry for over 30 years. I am just finishing building a new house and here is what it have learned so far.

Some things are just not worth trying to do yourself.

So, here is what I hired out:

Excavation
water well
septic
poured walls
concrete flatwork
windows and exterior doors
siding
brickwork
garage doors
interior wall framing
basement stairway
drywall
air conditioning
ceramic tile
kitchen counters.

Here is what I have done / am doing myself or mostly myself with paid people to help me:

Framing
insulating
roofing
painting
concrete stain and seal
electrical
data
cableTV
security
smoke detectors
hot water heating
geothermal heat pump
solar water heater
photovoltaics
plumbing
interior doors
hardware
trim carpentry
kitchen cabinets.

I have been working in my spare time and paying out of pocket to avoid a large mortgage. It has taken me 6 years so far with about two more to go.

Sometimes I wish I had started this when I was much younger like yourself. On the other hand, I have acquired many more skills and patience in the last 20+ years that have helped me make this a great house.

Whatever you decide to do, understand that building even a small house is a complicated project and will require perseverance and patience. If you have ever spent a weekend doing a project then just multiply that by 1000 times or more, depending on the size of your house, and imagine how big a job this will be.

If you are still interested, then working in the construction industry for a few years first, will give you invaluable experience toward your goal.

Good luck!


What made these burrows and holes in my lawn (Picture inside) I just moved to upstate NY area. I don't have too much experience with lawn but I know my lawn is terrible compared to my neighbors'.

I took this picture today. There are clearly some activities under my lawn. I think it is killing my lawn because the upper left area in the photo is grass-less before I moved in. What animals are those? How can I get rid of them?

These holes below may not related to the first one because there wasn't any burrow. Just quarter size holes. What animal made these?

Those look like mole runs under the sod. That is how they move around. They eat grubs and worms just under the root layer of the grass. Eliminate their food source and they will leave.

You can treat the lawn with grub killer or nematodes that kill the grubs. I have had these for years. They come and go but when I treat the lawn they seem to leave for a season.

Good luck!


What kind of threshold for this door - inswing - exterior - concrete - dricore? What kind of threshold might work for this 1938 exterior door?  It's actually an interior door, and it is exposed directly to weather (there's no porch or overhang).  If it were modern wood, it would be rotted by now, but it's the good old stuff.

What's new are 1" thick Dricore tiles coming right up to the door, with carpet to follow.  The door will be cut short to accommodate the height.  But it needs a new threshold.

The subfloor tiles are 1" high, the door is 1 1/2" thick, the distance from door edge to the concrete edge is 4", carpet thickness is tbd.

The local big box has a product that fits, but with ready-to-rot pine below and really dodgy screws and minimal thermal break:

Or this Pemko product, completely without a thermal barrier:

See also exterior door threshold over distinct concrete slabs at different grades

I would consider using a Pemco threshold, it is the "go to" product for atypical conditions. I have no qualms about modifying a threshold with a table saw to make it fit my conditions

Look on page 151 (RT 3) Type 147_, I would cut the left side edge off to meet the Dricore. I would do the same with the 2813_ on page 152.

I would not cut off the whole left side, just enough before the highest part to cap over the Dricore and leave a little ridge for the carpet to go against. Mind you, this still may not be tall enough to keep the carpet from dragging the bottom of the door without introducing a small angle to raise the threshold even higher help the door swing over the carpet. this has been done before too


Add new light and switch from existing lighting circuit There are a lot of questions about this topic, but I'm feeling a little dense and want to make sure I do this correctly. I have a small office in my basement. Power runs from the breaker box to the switch, then from the switch to the light. The light is the only thing on the circuit right now. I want to add a new light and switch, where the new switch will be 10' away or so on another wall outside of the office. Everything is open except for the existing light, but I do have access to the existing switch.

Can I run a cable from my existing switch to the new one? What would the wiring diagram look like for that?

Yes, you want to tap off the existing switch.

First, get a 5-pack of colored electrical tape ($4 at the big-box).  Go into the existing switch box, make sure the black wires are switched and not the white (if not fix it).  Find the cable to the existing switch; the black wire will be switched-hot.  Mark it with red electrical tape.   Now, everything in the box is color-coded by function.

Now, bring the black-white /2 supply cable to the other switch-light into the switch box.  Match up similar colors. And yer done!

If you need to bring 3 wires together, use a wire-nut.  If you need to tie a second wire to a wire that's already going to a switch, use a pigtail with a wire-nut.  Alternately you can upgrade to more deluxe  $3-range switches which have a feature called "Screw-and-clamp"; these switch screws can take 2 wires each.


220 outlet with no ground I have a stove I am replacing that was direct wired.  When I went to put an outlet in, I found out it only has 3 wires, Black, Red, and White and no ground.  I have a hood right above it that is grounded.

Can I run the ground wire from the hood to the metal stove outlet box, bond it to the box with a screw in the back, and then to the ground terminal of the outlet for my stove?

I am a layman, so please keep it simple.  Thank you in advance for any help.

The range is going to need a #10 copper wire back to the panel, if your outlets are wired with #10 or something is going back to the same panel you can run a #10 to that location and it would be legal. If no #10 you need to go back to the service panel or your main grounding electrode within 5' of where it enters the home. The ground wire can take a different route than the power cable so that makes it a bit easier.