Should a metal inline junction box on an extension cord be grounded? I have a 12 gauge stranded wire extension cord, but I could not find a switch that I needed to connect in the middle. So, I used a regular wall switch and box.  My question is, should I simply connect the ground wires back together and not connect them to the box, or should I connect them to the box too?  What is the safest option?

If the box is metal, it should be connected to the ground conductor in the cord.

Imagine this scenario: the hot wire comes loose inside this box, and makes contact with the box itself (which is not connected to ground). You go to turn on the switch and touch the box while standing on the ground. Because the box is energized by the hot wire, and you're a path to ground, you get a shock (or worse).

The safety ground wire is designed to reduce this risk by ensuring any conductive surfaces are firmly bonded to ground. In the scenario above, if the box were grounded, a short would happen as soon as the hot wire contacted the box. This would flip your circuit breaker, so you'd know something was wrong. Way better than having the box sitting there energized -- an invisible danger just waiting for someone to touch it!

So: ground the box and ensure the ground conductor continues on past the switch. And make sure you're using a properly grounded outlet to feed this cord.


Fixing a door hinge when the part of the board it was attached to is gone? In a house built in 1950 there is a door in the basement that the top hinge is connected but the bottom hinge is not attached because the part of the board it was attached to is gone.  I do not know what is holding the rest of the board in place, nor do I know what happened to the bottom part of the board.
I also don’t know how to fix it.  Here are the photos of it:

The wood next to the stone wall rotted.
You have a stone foundation.  Those are never perfectly sealed.  Moisture got thru and rotted the piece of wood next to the stone.  Maybe moisture came thru the wall or maybe up thru the ground.
Remove the door and set it aside.  Now you will be looking at the rotten piece of wood attached to the stone wall.  Get rid of it.  If you want a set up like you had, put a new piece there that is the same size.  When you get the old piece out you will see how it was attached to the stone.  Maybe there will be some holes in the stone you can use for the new piece.  Then put the door back where it was and attach the hinges to the new piece of wood.
It occurs to me that this would be a fine job for that fake plastic wood which will fill the space and receive the hinge from the door, but not rot.  Or at least use some wood full of preservatives!


Junction box with 12 and 14 guage wires I'm remodeling a kitchen.  I need to junction 14 guage wires for a lighting circuit that are near impossible to get to or re-route.  Is it permissible to junction 14 guage wires in the same box with a 12 guage dining room receptacle? Just to be clear, i wont be co-mingling 12 and 14 wires on the same circuit, im only junctioning them in the same box.
Also, I know the rules about how many wires can be in a certain box. I was thinking about using 4S metal box with a mud-ring to ensure I have plenty of space.

Having multiple circuits in one box as fine, as long as you don't cross the streams!
What you propose (i.e. having a 15A circuit share a box with a 20A circuit) is entirely fine and normal.  There is one thing you'll want to be careful about though, and that's not crossing the streams; while you'll need to connect all the grounding conductors together, you need to keep not only the hots, but their partner neutrals rigorously separate to avoid overloading neutral wires, tripping GFCIs and AFCIs, and spewing stray magnetic fields everywhere.
You'll also want to mark the wires as to which circuit they come from; they make labels designed for this purpose, even, if you want a professional-looking solution for that.


Is "servo-drive" a generic term when applied to kitchen cabinets/drawers? I'm translating a Russian text about a high-tech kitchen, and one sentence goes like this:

  The cabinets are equipped with servo drives and will open at a light touch.

The original text says literally "equipped with electrical motors", but I came across the term "servo-drive". Is this term generic, or is there a more widely used generic term for this?

I would avoid a licensed term in favor of a more generic, common one.

To my mind, servos are typically used in control-gear, not the sort of thing I'd associate with cabinets.

Personally, I'd use something like:

  The cabinets are electrically driven ...

or

  The cabinets have motor drive ...


I just replaced a light switch, how can I make sure it's safe? I just replaced my dimmer switches with Insteon switches. Everything works, and I believe all the connections, etc. are correct. My box did not have a ground wire, so I was told that as long as the ground wire is touching the metal box, then it's ok. What else can I do to make sure everything is safe? I have a multimeter.

I tried putting my multimeter in continuity mode and touched the two screws and it said it was a short, but I think that makes sense, right?

If there is no ground wire (bare or green) coming into the box, grounding to a metal box is the next best thing. But it should be done by putting a grounding screw into one of the small threaded holes in the metal box, or using a grounding clip. The grounding wire from the switch is then put under the screw or into the clip.

This will ground the switch if there is a well connected metal sheathing on the cable coming into the box, or if there is some other connection of a grounding wire to the box.

If there is none, you have an ungrounded switch. Assuming it functions, this poses no more risk than we routinely put up with when switches were all ungrounded a few years (decades?) ago.

If the switch was fully ON and you tested across the hot and the switched hot, it should read as a short (or close to it). If it were open or dimmed, it should show more resistance than 0, but how much depends on the position and circuitry.


Is cutting a DIY spline channel around the openings of our wood screen porch a good plan? The contractor that built our wood screen porch installed screen with wooden strips and nails. Unfortunately, our indoor cat has figured out that he can rip the screen out from under the wood strips and get out of the porch.

I'd like to replace the screen, and make a sturdier screen installation, while keeping the nice natural look of the wood strips.

Here's my idea:

Using a circ saw set to a depth of about 1/8", with a 1/8" blade, I'll cut a spline channel around the edges of the window openings. I'll then install the screen with spline, and nail the wooden strips back over the spline channel, both securing the spline in the channel, and making for a nice look.

Is this crazy? What could go wrong? I haven't heard of anyone using this method, so I assume there's something about it that's not ideal. I guess trying to use the circ saw on a vertical surface is a bit dodgy. Is that the only problem? Thanks!

This is a good idea, except 1/8" x 1/8" is kinda small. 5/32" would let you use common .160 spline. Check spline availability in your area prior to choosing groove size.

Yes, "trying to use the circ saw on a vertical surface is a bit dodgy". You should remove the panels and lay them flat on sawhorses if possible.

You should consider using a router, which would be easier to control (i.e. perhaps safer). Another benefit of the router is that it "does corners". With a circular saw (or even a table saw) you will need to saw beyond your spline corner to achieve the correct depth at the corner, which will look crappy if the cut extends beyond the wood molding.


Can a receptacle be added to a lamppost? I'm adding a post and a post-mounted light fixture in the backyard. Some posts have an outlet at the bottom, but they appear to always have a "decorative ladder rest" (with plastic golden balls!) that is an eyesore. Is it possible to add a receptacle to a plain post?

The plan is to use this light, which fits on a 3" post.

There is no reason you could not, if you followed the standard requirements for outdoor recepticles, such as

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)
sealed box
properly protected cable

However, this is likely to be a bulky add on.

Cutting a hole in the post presents a problem becasue you need to install a sealable box and sealable cable connections.

Finding a post that already has a UL listed outlet is probably a safer, easier and maybe cheaper alternative. (See comment by @The Evil Greebo) A manufacturer can design an integrated housing for the outlet and get it UL rated, whereas you need to rely on off-the-shelf parts (read not custom fit) to get the same safety and performance.

Also, on the posts you have seen so far, it might be easier to remove the decorative items and plug them with small caps or finials than adding a safe outlet.


Can I put rigid foam on studs to prevent thermal bridging? I'm re-insulating an interior wall & putting up drywall to replace the old plaster walls.  Rather than screwing the drywall directly into the studs, I'm toying with the idea of putting a 1/2 inch of polystyrene rigid insulation along the stud, to prevent thermal bridging.  I would then put up the drywall with longer screws that would go through the poly, and dig into the studs.

Is this a bad idea?  Will this cause problems either during installation of the drywall or days/months/years after installation?

It's common to do the reverse...clad the outside in foam insulation to prevent thermal bridging from that side.

Your idea is sound. I'd suggest using full panels and then tape them. That would add additional insulation to the entire wall and also act as a Vapor barrier for you.

Another technique is instead of using insulation, install 1x2" slats horizontally across the studs every 16" and install the sheetrock to that. The theory is the same in that the only bridging would then be and the small points where the two pieces of lumber meet.


Can I build an adjustable slanted table by placing bearings between the legs and the desk? The legs' length is adjustable, each leg is connected to the desk by means of a plate with 4 screws on the perimeter. I want to lower the table's front legs so the table becomes slanted. I would like to be able to adjust the slant degree so placing wedges between the legs and the desk does not help me. I've been thinking on adding some kind of bearing between the desk and the legs but haven't found any bearing that would enable me to do that. Any suggestions?

I would use a hinge on each leg as the attachment, with the hinge facing forward. You want something reasonably tight so it doesn't shake the desk around.

You'll probably have to put a wood block on top of the legs, so that the legs and hinge both have something to attach to.


Are T12 fluorescent lamps still available? My '70s house is chock full of fluorescent tubes.  the T12s look the best with the architecture.  those pansy T8s are way too small.  Anybody have a lead on where to get 48" 32W T12?

PS.  can we add 'fluorescent' to the tags list?  kthxbi

There's probably no such thing as a F32T12, but I could be wrong.
You might check with a local electrical distributor / wholesaler.  Where I work we still stock the F34T12CW-SS (super saver) and still buy them from our chosen lamp manufacturer.
The main reason is you would have to buy an electronic ballast instead of the old magnetic (core and coil) ballast.  When you match an F34T12 with an electronic ballast with an F32T8 electronic ballast, the wimpy F32T8 wins on lumen output 2735 vs. 2235.  Also less energy is used.  Color is also better with T8's but still not as good as incandescent or LED's in warmer tone.
The big DIY box stores probably don't mess with them because they would rather have you buying more energy efficient lamps and ballast.
Also effective July 14, 2012 the US Government will make lamp manufacturers to discontinue T12 lamps so if you just have to have T12 lamps you better buy a couple of cases.

On July 14, 2012, recently enacted DOE regulations will take effect that will also eliminate the T12 lamps that the ballasts operate.
The new DOE rules expand on efficiency rules established by the Energy Policy Act of 1992 by strengthening standards for covered lamps types while also covering 8-ft. T8 lamps, 4-ft. T5 lamps and more wattages of 4-ft. T8 and T12 lamps. The net result, with few exceptions, is a majority of 4-ft. linear and 2-ft. U-shaped T12 lamps, many 8-ft. T12 and T12HO, and some low-color-rendering 4-ft. T8 lamps will be eliminated. While no longer popular in new construction, an estimated 30 percent of fluorescent 4-ft. lamps sold every year are T12, according to NEMA market data.

Above info from here

Fluorescent Lamp Ballasts — two regulations: (1) a DOE energy conservation standard that becomes applicable to full wattage new ballasts in 2005–2006, and retrofit ballasts in 2010 (65FR 56740) and (2) legislative standards for energy saver ballasts (e.g., F34T12) that become effective 2009–2010 from the Energy Policy Act of 2005.  Both these regulatory measures shift the market from T12 (medium CRI) to T8 (high CRI) fluorescent lamps.
General Service Incandescent Lamps — passed as part of EISA 2007, this standard will essentially phase out the most common, least efficient incandescent lamps by 2012–2014. It also establishes a minimum threshold efficacy of 45 lm/W starting in 2020, which is modeled as a shift to lamps that have a very high CRI and an efficacy of 45 lm/W. See Section 321 of EISA 2007.
Fluorescent Lamps — a DOE energy conservation standard that applies to fluorescent lamps manufactured after July 14, 2012, adopting an efficacy standard that shifts the fluorescent market to T8 lamps (74 FR 34080).
Incandescent Reflector Lamps — a DOE energy conservation standard that applies to lamps manufactured after July 14, 2012, adopting an efficacy that requires premium halogen technologies (74 FR 34080).
Metal Halide Lamp Fixtures — passed as part of EISA 2007, this standard sets minimum efficiency  requirements on ballasts that operate metal halide lamp fixtures. See Section 324 of EISA 2007.

Above info from PDF here, just search for F34T12
According to one of my co-workers, this is all moot because of December 21, 2012... ;)


Combine evaporative cooling with ventilation to increase efficiency of temperature equalization? We live in San Francisco, which is not known for high temperatures. But our apartment is on the third floor and we get a ton of direct sunlight through our 5'x8' windows. We open the windows enough to ventilate the apartment with fans, and otherwise keep them covered with heavy, reflective-backed curtains, but somehow the place still turns into a greenhouse. It can get above 85F inside, even when it's considerably cooler than that outside.

I've started thinking about evaporative cooling. I don't want to use an evaporative cooler in a closed room because of the risk of growing mold, but what if we were to combine evaporative cooling with ventilation? Normally when you're changing the air temperature you want to prevent air exchange, but we actually want to bring the inside temperature closer to the outside temperature. So, could we run an evaporative cooler to suck room heat into water vapor, and then vent the moistened air to the outside to keep the humidity from getting too high? Or am I failing to understand something about the physics here?

The way evaporative cooling works is that it forces air through moistened pads, evaporating the water and cooling and humidifying the air. The cooled and humidified air is then blown through the house and back outside again, lowering the interior air temperature and producing a cooling breeze as well. If I understand you correctly, you are asking if you could use evaporative cooling to use the heat already inside the house to evaporatively cool the rest of it. I don't think this will be any more effective than simply using outside air. After all, if it works, the temperature of the interior air will rapidly fall below the outside air temperature, eliminating the high temperature inside.

You have correctly identified that ventilation is necessary for evaporative cooling to work. You basically have two options: crack some windows, or use a dedicated ventilation system. Here in the southwest, there is a product called UpDux that is basically a vent that allows air exchange from the room to the attic above. They are used in warm-season houses that are evaporatively-cooled, allowing the cooled and humidified air to escape through the attic, with two benefits: 1) they allow you to keep your windows closed, and 2) the air cools the attic as well on its way out of the house, preventing the attic heat from heating up the interior so much. In your apartment, installing such products is not likely an option. I'd crack some windows in the rooms farthest from where you locate the evaporative cooler.

However, you have a potential problem: San Francisco is fairly humid for evaporative cooling. Less than the national average, but I see at http://www.city-data.com/city/San-Francisco-California.html that the afternoon relative humidity in July only falls to 30% in the afternoon, and it's higher than that most of the time.

You can figure out exactly how effective evaporative cooling will be using this calculator: http://www.srh.noaa.gov/epz/?n=wxcalc_rh

For example, plug in 90 degrees for the temperature, 30% for the relative humidity, and 30 inches of mercury for the atmospheric pressure. That will give you 67.55 degrees for the wet-bulb temperature. That's the theoretical cooling power of a 100% efficient evaporative cooler. Unfortunately, 100% efficiency is impossible unless you get a two-stage unit that is very expensive; assume more like 70-90%. Here is the formula for the real-life cooling power of a less-than-100%-efficient evaporative cooler:

Air temperature - ((air temperature - calculated wet bulb temperature) * efficiency)

So, 90 - ((90-67.5)*0.8) = 71.6. So an 80% efficient evaporative cooler, such as the Bonaire Durango window unit I own and love, would blow 71 degree air at 100% humidity into your house.

I can tell you from experience that once your evap cooler is blowing air that's in the 70s, it stops working that well, because the cooling power you're receiving is offset by the mugginess of the interior relative humidity rising to 60% or higher, which is also dangerous for a wood-framed house because that's approaching the mold-friendly level.

This may work anyway, since 71 degree air is certainly more comfortable than 85 degree air, but you'll need to keep it running constantly because 71 degree air is probably not going to cool the house down to below 77 or so, based on my knowledge of the heat gain you're receiving in a likely awfully-built, basically uninsulated San Francisco building with terrible clear-glazed single-pane windows. Additionally, you'll want to keep the windows open wide to ensure maximum air exchange to the exterior to keep the interior relative humidity down. If this is a plan worth pursuing, I would buy a hygrometer so you can measure the interior relative humidity for yourself.


Rigid foam vs cellulose insulation in the attic I'd like to know if someone has any experience regarding how well the rigid foam panels insulate homes compared to cellulose blown-in fiber.

I really don't like the idea to dumb some mess in my attic. But I saw many videos showing how cellulose performs. I read that the cellulose doesn't fully stop the air flow compared to rigid foam panels.

Yes, I'd like to store some stuff in the attic but I don't want to compromise the insulation values. All the reviews at the home depot site regarding cellulose talk about the installation, not the actual product or the experience of the product performance.

Will the 2-inch thick rigid foam panel provide me with the same or similar heat conservation as the cellulose?

vs.

Go with both, is actually the best answer for most attic situations. Cellulose, as you indicated, doesn't stop air movement too well & is much more effective in truly dead-airspaces. But, Cellulose is very much less expensive.

Rigid foam panels however, are very air stopping & even convection stopping, which can also feel like air movement to you & Cellulose. Yes, Rigid Foam can be stacked as thick or deep as you want, but it's very costly compared to Cellulose.

The proper setup is to always install Rigid foam on top of Cellulose. In picture #1 you'd want the Rigid foam 1-inch away from the roof deck, for roof ventilation. Then, you'd fill between the ceiling & Rigid foam with Cellulose.

Similarly, for picture #2, IF, the gable end had a vent or looked something like an unfinished picture #1 with that window being the gable vent. Then, you'd blow your Cellulose in first, to then lay Rigid foam on top of it to seal the Cellulose from air movement for a cozy dead-airspace.

However, for picture #2 as it is with no venting at all, then Cellulose by itself is fine, but you want to pile it up as much as possible to abate convection from penetrating too deeply. And, if it's affordable this space would be best suited for stacked Rigid foam panels fitted tightly between the joists for a floor to be laid on top for attic storage. This would give you the overall best thin insulation or non-intrusive insulation.

The final trick for just Cellulose is to first & foremost line the naked space with 6-mil plastic as your vapor barrier so the Cellulose doesn't get wet & create a structural problem or lose its thermal value. This can be large sheets that Cellulose holds down into each joist bay by itself or you can even cut slightly oversized strips of plastic to lay within each joist bay. Any seams should be taped with aluminum tape or specific vapor barrier tape.


Is it possible to raise beams like these? I'm visiting houses with my partner, who really likes old cottages.

Problem is, there are lots of doorways like this:

Is is possible to make this doorway 'human' sized without the house falling down. Good answers would include links to projects were it has happened and potential estimates of cost. :)

You'd have to literally raise the roof (and build up the walls to support the raised roof), and the cost is generally prohibitive as that's a rather major alteration to the structure. In the specific case of "cottage" it also messes with "what makes a cottage a cottage, as opposed to a house."


Wall dimmer switch is warm to the touch after leaving the light on - cause for concern? Our house is about 25 years old, though we have lived here less than 2.

Our master bath has a dual light switch, one for the main light bar over the sinks and one for the lights above the shower stall and tub. These are both oversized rocker switches with a slider to dim the lights.

If we leave the lights over the shower and tub on for an extended period of time - an hour or so - the switch will be noticeably warm to the touch. It does not seem to warm up any further by leaving it on beyond this. The wall switch does not have an internal backlight when it is off.

The lights on the circuit are an in-ceiling "can" light over the shower and a gaudy gold chandelier over the tub. Would replacing either of these help alleviate the problem?

I have not noticed this problem with the switch for the light over the sinks, though we don't typically leave that one on as long. This circuit consists of two bars of 6 bare-bulb globe lights each.

I am relatively confident that the switches are not original to the house, though the light fixtures themselves probably are. (Edit: Looked at them again this morning, and I'm less confident that the chandelier is original - the medallion is a slightly different color from the ceiling, so it either wasn't painted or was installed later.)

Should I be worried about the operating temperature of the switch?

If this was a normal switch, I would say, no this is not normal.  Since the switch does contain a dimmer, it is perfectly normal.  Dimmers are electronic devices that do heat up. In fact, because of the heat they create, dimmers are rated for a maximum wattage.  Special high wattage dimmers are available, and they even have integrated heat sinks to help dissipate the heat they generate.

That said, you need to calculate the total wattage of the bulbs you are controlling with the switch.  If you have 6 bulbs, the max wattage you can use is probably 40W.  A typical residential dimmer will have a maximum of 600W (yours will be labeled, probably on the face where its easy to see).  Using 12 40W bulbs you have 480W, but using 60W bulbs you would be over-budget at 720W.  This is important, because when you are over 600W, the dimmer will still work, but it could possibly get hot enough to damage itself or the wiring connections in the same box.


How does an illuminated switch light up without a neutral There are some illuminated switches that operate without a neutral. For a lamp that is lit when the switch is ON, I can envision a circuit diagram that has the switch lamp in series with the switched circuit. But this would create significant additional resistance in the current flowing through the line to the main load. If the switch is parallel to the line, virtually no current should flow since the resistance to the lamp is so much higher than the completed switch circuit.

For switch lamps lit in the OFF position, a switch lamp in series would allow a trickle of current through the actual load, causing a dim glow in a fixture or some current in a motor.  This seems wrong.

How do no-neutral illuminated switches work?

They DO pass current through the switch and light at all times - just a few mA. The indicator is wired in parallel to the switch contacts.   For most types of bulbs its not enough for the light to turn on.

However with modern LED light bulbs these types of switches (as well as dimmers, and home automation switches) that dont use the neutral can cause the LED bulb to turn on enough to be noticable or flicker.


Wiring Light with Master Switch I am trying to replace a light fixture. It is a fluorescent lamp holder with one black, one white, and one ground wire. My ceiling has 5 wires coming out of it, and I assume it is because 2 different switches control this light. There is one master switch, and one that turns on or off as long as the master switch is on. Switch number 2 does nothing if master switch is turned off. Can anyone tell by looking at this picture, which is which and what wires need to be connected from my fixture?

Not from the picture.  Unfortuantely, the information had been there, but you destroyed it when you took all the wires apart without documenting what was there.

Your best bet now is this:

1.

A cable is several wires in a sheath.

Cap off the black and white wires from one cable (individually), and connect the lamp's black and white to the other cable.   If the light now works off one switch, and not the other, then you can go to the next step.  Otherwise switch cables.

Now the light works, off one switch.

2.

Keep the white wire from the lamp with the white wire from the ceiling. These are neutral and they need to stay this way.

The white wire in the ceiling that is capped off, mark it with black or colored electrical tape.  Uncap it.

Unhook the lamp's black wire from the black ceiling wire.  Join this  black ceiling wire to the white wire you just marked.  This is switched-hot from the master switch (which may not be the one you think).

Remains is one black wire that is capped off, and one black from the lamp.  Join them.


Can anybody tell me what is the dome shaped object in this picture? I seen a red beam coming from it and the. It went away

That is a motion sensor.   It relates to either a burglar alarm or motion detector lighting.

The lighting isn't going to light up during the day, it also has a light sensor so it knows when it is not daylight.


What could be the source of this moisture? I'm a little baffled here with the problem at hand -- we're seeing spots on our engineered wood flooring that appears to be moisture coming up from beneath but cant figure out the source of that moisture. We already did the water meter test and there seem to be no indication of a slab leak. The only thing we can think of is that this started popping up only during rainy season since the last couple months  This wasn't there before, which could or could not be related.

I used a General Tools MM8 infrared water meter in 'hardwood' mode and it shows anywhere from 22% to 35% moisture, which I believe is excessive (it should be below 12%) but I'm skeptical of that reading since it gives that reading on the entire floor... and we have a pretty big floor. According to the same moisture meter all walls, baseboards, etc. are dry. I've attached pics of the spots. There's no warping/cupping of the planks, it looks pretty level. Could anyone take a look at the pics and suggest what may be going on? What could be the source of it and how to remedy the issue? I have extra planks and don't mind replacing them, but want to eliminate the root cause of the problem.

You're best bet is to peel a plank and see what's under it.


How/why is a driver better at screws than a combi drill? The first decent power tool I bought was a DeWalt combi drill. It's good but I know contractors always have dedicated tools and it seems other than convenience switching bits, a driver is just better at screws... Less slipping etc... Even accounting for my lack of skill.

What does a proper driver do that a drill doesn't that makes it more effective?

Impact drivers are much better for screwing.   Period.   You will lose less heads and as a user you will have to put less weight on it compared to a drill.

This is because impact drivers have more rotational torque but they also bump (tap) the screw at around 30 times a second.    The drill might have more rotational power but that is what gives it problems.    This power stresses the user to push towards the screw or the screw head to be well made or you will get a slip or head damage.

The impact driver will usually stall before it needs to power through to the point of causing damage or slipping.   The tiny taps it commits to allow it an interval to stall on vs. the user hitting a snag with a drill and committing to adding more pressure right before the stall or getting a slip.

For just screwing things in an impact driver wins bigtime in home construction.   The drill is needed for drilling but often used for screwing because it is a jack of all trades.   Watch any good craftsman do woodwork (kitchen cabinets) and they would never use a drill to secure cabinets together and things like that.


Will drywall mud stick to shellac-based primer? We are preparing to prime interior walls using a shellac-based primer, followed with a setting compound mud.  Will the mud stick adequately to the shellac-based product or do we need to use another type of primer over the shellac primer?

Yes. This fine plastering expert actually recommends it:

  If the surface is new, eliminate any possibility of coating failure by priming the surface in an oil primer, B-I-N SHELLAC BASE is preferred.

Here is another expert plasterer doing the same.


Can I install engineered hardwood over laminate flooring? My floor has two layers of laminate flooring and the first layer is partially removed around the edges of the kitchen cabinets and walls.  The top layer is glued down very well and I'm wondering if I could install engineered hardwood over it even though the surface will not be level.  I've heard you can install engineered hardwood over laminate but what about 1 and a partial layer?  If I need to get the top layer off what is the best way to get the bottom layer clean and level?

Are the cabinets on top of the first layer?  Why remove just the second layer and not the first as well?

To remove both you could use a circular saw with the blade depth carefully set to the combined thickness of the two floors (or just a hair shallow, using a utility knife to finish the cuts).


I12 eccotemp tankless water heater I am getting ready to install an Eco temp i12 tankless water heater. From what I have heard there is a possibility of cold air backdrafting through the direct vent and into the water heater, thus damaging the heat exchanger and ruining the unit. I plan to run about 10 feet of exhaust vent through my heated basement and then out the wall, will that prevent freezing air reaching the unit, since the cold air would have to travel through a warm pipe before reaching the unit? Does anyone else have experience with a tankless water heater in a cold climate? I live in Michigan.
Thanks for any input.

A quick web search turns up some information. Obviously water heaters mounted outside require special handling. The Rinnai line has two lines of defense against freezing, including ceramic heaters and a mode that will run the combustion periodically to keep the unit warm. Naturally, the water lines still need to be insulated and heated to ensure against freezing.

These protections of course also work for indoor-mounted units. Other brands don't necessarily include these features though. It doesn't look like Eccotemp does.

I haven't bothered to read through their installation manual. However, guidance found on other sites suggest that as long as the air vent is at least 6' long in insulated space, this should be sufficient to prevent freezing from infiltration of outside air. So your 10' run is almost twice as long as you need to accomplish this.

Other things you can do to minimize the risk are:

Make sure that the vent openings on the exterior are facing away from prevailing winds.
Install a backdraft preventer (flapper) on the exhaust, to further reduce the likelihood of air movements through the vent system while the unit's not operating.

Some useful/informative pages I found include:
https://www.mclayservices.com/blog/cold-outside-will-outdoor-tankless-hot-water-heater-still-work/
https://www.waterheaterleakinginfo.com/cold-weather/
https://propane.com/2018/09/17/eight-cold-climate-tips-for-tankless-water-heaters/
https://www.eccotemp.com/blog/tankless-water-heaters-indoor-vs-outdoor/


Upgrade Electric Service from 100A to 200A Essentially, I want to upgrade the electric service to my house from 100A to 200A (or more).

Now for the details:

1) I called my utility company and I was told by them that my meter and service allow up to 320A (which I was told here likely means 80% continuous rating for 400A service).

2) My meter and main breaker are located some distance from the subpanel with individual circuit breakers. As such, I have two boxes with circuit breakers separated by ~100ft of service wire.

3) My current main breaker is integrated with the meter. The box is rated for 125A and the installed breaker is a 100A, 2-pole breaker. See the following picture:

This one details the current panel specifications:

4) I have about 100ft of service cable going through conduit to my subpanel, which has the individual circuit breakers. I forgot to check for other wire specs (ex. THW, THWN, etc.), but I saw that it is 4GA wire on the conductor wires.

5) My subpanel is also a 125A rated subpanel. It has 8 slots for (apparently) 16 circuits. See the following picture:

What I want to do:

1) I want to get 16 slots and ≥200A at my subpanel.

It's actually quite simple.

How I think I can do it:

1) Somehow get a total of four hot wires coming out of the main breaker box and add another 100A 2-pole main breaker to get a total of 200A.

2) Run another set of service entry wires from the additional main breaker through the conduit.

3) Install a second subpanel, identical to the first, to be serviced by this new set of wires I just ran through the conduit.

Questions I have:

1) For step 1, can I add a second main breaker that is connected to the meter through a jumper wire. Essentially, I would be adding a panel like this one (only using that product as a representation of what I intend), or do I need to replace the existing meter/main breaker panel with something like this one?

2) If I have 2 2-pole breakers or 1 4-pole breaker, can I run a new set of conductor wires without having to upgrade the existing ones? The difference is, if I replace the existing ones with 2/0 wires (for 200A), it will cost $1500. If I add new ones (protected by their own breakers on a 4-pole), it will cost $150.

3) Are the existing wires too small, since this website says that 4GA is only suitable between 70A and 95A, depending on the wire temperature rating? I'll be sad if they are too small.

4) Does it make sense to add another subpanel, or would it be better to replace the existing one with a 16+ slot subpanel?

If I am forgetting to ask something important, or if you need more info, please advise.

Thank you.

EDIT: My question was flagged as being similar to this question, which I also posted previously. This is a follow-up that details, more-specifically, a practical renovation project rather than a theoretical question regarding how breakers are built into circuits.

EDIT: Just called my utility again, and they told me something different this time. The current rep had no idea why I was told 320A last time and said they don't keep service ampacity numbers on their end. Instead, I'll just have to put in an application (because I'd be messing with the meter) and a technician will come out to talk through the project and determine what's required.

Spaces vs Circuits

First let's explain the 8/16 thing, or "8 spaces but 16 circuits".  At some point, panel manufacturers developed what I (alone) call a "double-stuff" breaker, which crams 2 breakers into a single space.  This is intended to solve crowding problems in too-small panels.

 photo source: Home Depot

Relying on these, marketing called their boxes 2X-circuit (X-space).  Around 2014 they mysteriously stopped doing that.  Recent NEC changes required AFCI or GFCI breakers on damn near every circuit...  AFCI and GFCI are not made in double-stuff breakers.

Your 16/8 service panel is a legacy of that bad labeling.  You have an 8-space panel, intended to replace an 8-space fuse box.

Panel space is dirt cheap. Go nuts.

You are dreaming of a 16-space panel.  And even that is dreadfully small and you will find it rather limiting even with 100A service.

The practice of many electricians is to give you the smallest panel possible.  That's first, to force you into more subpanel work if you expand further (more money for them) and second to save themselves $20 in part cost.

The cost of a larger panel is trivial tiny compared to total project cost.  It is very correct to be extreme.  Please spend an extra $100 for a 42-space panel, unless you just can't make it fit.  Honestly I'd go 60-space.  Not least, those larger panels are 225A-ready.

You never know.  You might do a kitchen remodel and go hey, I'd like a separate circuit for refrigerator done microwave done dishwasher done disposal done 3 outlet circuits done.  You have the space.

When you buy a PC, do you really calculate your needed hard drive space and buy just what you need...  Or do you just buy the big 3TB drive?  Of course you do.  Same thing here.

More work to do at the meter

OK so the power company says their side of the cable is 320A.  If they say so.

They say their meter is 320A.  If they say so.

But your meter housing is not 320A.

To support more than the listed 125A, you will need to upgrade your meter housing.  There's no question of that.  That's your equipment and you have to pay for it, probably, unless your power company does something different with cost sharing.

You won't be able to replace parts of it, you will probably even have to replace both sides of it as a single unit.  However it is very nice to have your main breaker in the meter.  It means you can fully de-energize your main panel, which makes it safer for you to do yourself.

The 320A may be shared

Since it's multi-unit, the power company provisioning 320A makes more sense.  Trouble is, this 320A service is probably shared between both units.  So it's not as much as you think.

You really need to talk to your power company about what they consider this "320A" to be.  It may be a relabeling of what other power companies call 400A service.  So they may be willing to feed two 200A panels, or 100/100/200.  This is a conversation you can have only with them.

More food for thought is sub-metering units, and separately metering common spaces. The new thing in rental properties is to have one main meter and the landlord has sub-meters per tenant.  Many landlords prefer (and some law requires) commons space usage to be on a separate (sub) meter, i.e. heating, yard and commons lighting, anti-freeze pipe wrap or roof/gutter heat, coin laundry, Christmas decorations etc.


What kind of drill bit can I use for a small hole on Silestone countertop? I need to drill 2 small holes on the underside of my Silestone countertop to secure a new dishwasher. What kind of drill bit can I use?

AFAIK Silestone is some kind of artificial quartz, but I wonder if it's too hard for normal masonry bit.

Silestone is natural quartz aggregate, held together by a polymer binder.  I believe it's something like 85% quartz. You'll need a diamond coated bit like this one; it's a tiny hole saw where the rim is covered in diamonds:

It's a bit tricky to start, you need to hold the drill at a slight angle so that only one side of the circumference is grinding, and then as you start to develop a crescent-shaped groove you gradually move your drill perpendicular and continue with the rest of the hole.  If you don't do this the thing will walk all over the place since it has no positive center like a regular hole saw.

For drilling upside down you'll want a spray bottle with water to keep the surface as wet as possible.  That Hitachi bit I linked to has a spiral groove going in the opposite direction of a normal drill bit, which serves to draw water into the hole, which will help you when drilling upside down.

Obviously you want to be careful not to drill too far and pop out of the top of your nice counters.

For fastening the dishwasher you'll need a plastic anchor into which to run your screws, and I've found this type works great.  In a solid material the plastic will extrude around the screw threads and hold really tightly.  They do sell them at my Lowe's but I can't find them on their website.  The 3/16" size is probably what you need for your dishwasher, and the diamond bit I linked to above is also 3/16".  Good luck!


how to wire a light fixture to a plug? I have a light fixture that I want to wire to a plug-in wiring setup. The fixture has three white wires and three black wires, it also has a separate, bare ground wire. My plug style wiring is a normal 2x15A 300v plug. One side has a ribbed edge and the other has a smooth edge.
The fixture is a three bulb setup, thus, the three wire connection. I am just unsure how to safely wire this to a plug in wiring arrangement.
Thank you.

I'm guessing that you are repairing or replacing the light fixtures plug? And if so you would like to know how the wires are connected? The lamp cord as you noticed, has a hot side (which is marked with 'ribs' on the plastic insulation. The other smooth side is the neutral. The repair plug you have is a 2 prong (male) type plug? Which means there is no ground for the fixture. The white wires at the fixture are twisted together and so are the 3 black wires. In order to connect the plug you must connect a white length of wire (and the same for the black) to the wires at the fixture. Twist them tight and secure with a wire nut. You should now have two wires connected to the fixture. ******Please read****:  This answer is assuming a lot from your question. If my second guessing is correct please say so in the comments section below and I will continue responding with an answer.*******


Anyone please tell me what kind hinge (name of the hinge) used in this product? Anyone please tell me what kind hinge (name of the hinge) used in this product ?
Name of the product is SNAP JACK from LIVING WITH JACK company.

Hinges

  what kind hinge (name of the hinge) used in this product?

That looks like simple pin (perhaps steel) in a drilled hole and a couple of spacers (perhaps plastic). I don't know of a specific name for this simple arrangement. Nor for the compound hinge formed by the arrangement of three simple hinges to form a folding brace.

Addenda ...

In the Snap-Jack furniture

  All the fittings, and hinges are stainless steel, and the magnets and keepers are nickel plated, the hinge spacers are plastic

So the hinges are basically exactly as I said above. The magnets are not part of the hinge itself.

Latches

  I think [...] a rare earth magnet [...] was used as a hinge

In the Snap-Jack furniture, magnets are not part of the hinge - magnets are used to hold the furniture parts in the fully-closed and fully-open positions. Magnets are also used to help hold the chairs and tables into the wall-mount in the stored position.

  Magnetic safety latches

These magnets are not part of the hinges.

Part names

All these parts are available separately from most hardware stores.

steel rod
steel or plastic washers (maybe spacers too)
disk magnets (screw mounted or epoxy into recess)
keepers (or use a steel washer and a short wood-screw)

I would use a drill-press with a table rotated 90° to drill the holes for the pins.


What nails or screws to use to support 600 pounds max? Making tree house bed Im making this for my kids. I will post the video so you guys can watch it, and have an idea what im talking about. Just watch the video until minute 2:50 because thats all im doing. The rest will be different from the video..just want to know how much weight can i put on? And what nails or screws to use..? Any help please. Thanks in advance.

https://youtu.be/dR_cXIMiQ9Y

Common 3-1/2" gold construction screws (of good quality) are good for 50# or more each when used in solid lumber and penetration is at least 1-1/2". Dividing your bed into two ends, you'll need 6 screws per end to hit your load rating. Considering that you'll probably anchor it along the side as well, you'll have more than adequate support.

Do not use nails for anything that's not intended to be permanent, nor for anything where pullout resistance is critical.

Disclaimer: This assessment is based on several decades of construction and home ownership experience, and not any particular specification or product rating.


Does it matter which 3-way switch I put a dimmer at on a 4-way circuit? I was working a side job today and re-wired quite a few 3 and 4-way circuits.  I have a good understanding on how each work, but when I hooked up a 3-way dimmer on a 4-way circuit, the light would come on only if I had a certain switch on.  Basically, I put it where I thought was at the switch leg end of the circuit.  I'm only assuming this because the first 3-way is a foot away from the panel then the 4-way and finally the last 3-way.  I've heard several people say to put it on the switch leg end (granted it's wired for a traditional 4-way circuit) or the switch that is not the line side.  I also heard it does not matter... as long as it's obviously not in the middle.  What the heck is the problem here???

Was it a standard dimmer switch, rather than a 3-way one?

When replacing an on/off switch with a dimmer switch, you must make sure the type of switch (standard, 3-way, 4-way) matches.  They make all three types of on/off switches, but I've only ever seen standard and 3-way dimmers.  I figure the rarity of use for 4-way dimmers, combined with the rarity with which they would be purchased, make them not worth manufacturing.

Anyway, in a 4-way circuit (or more-way), you can replace either 3-way on/off switch (which will either be the first or last switch) with a 3-way dimmer.  But it must be a 3-way dimmer, not a basic dimmer.

I refer you to some excellent diagrams on wikipedia to see how multi-way circuits work.  Note the difference between how a 3-way and 4-way switch work.  If you can find a 4-way dimmer switch, you could replace any 4-way switch in a multi-way circuit with it.  Otherwise, it's either got to be the first or last switch.


Getting single handle faucet off with no set screw I am trying to fix a leaky single handle faucet but I cannot find a set screw or really any way to get the handle off. I tried prying off and just pulling. There are no screws under or behind the lever. Any advice?

Perhaps the screw is from underneath and the assembly needs removing first.
Had a similar tap to deal with and the top slid into the body - with several o rings and was held in place by a set screw from the base. Only way was to remove it from the sink first.


How to check the type of installed insulated glazing In the Netherlands, insulated glass is rated by a standardized rating system, classifying it into 3 categories by the u-value:

HR : U value between 2.0 and 1.7
HR+ : U value between 1.6 and 1.3
HR++ : U value less than 1.2

The price difference between these types of insulated glass is quite large. After the glass has been installed, is there any simple way to measure the U value or otherwise check the type? I guess it would be quite easy for a swindling contractor to sell HR++ and install HR without it ever being noticed?

Louis it is a really good question.  First if you have the space to put the cheaper insulation then you can simply buy more of that to get the same results.  If the insulation type is the same but different U value then it only matters what total you are getting.

How to verify this?  This has been answered on the site many times - a couple by me.  There isn't an exact way but you can get a rough estimate.  Remember you are also measuring the installation not just the insulation.  If not packed correctly and there are gaps then you will have the same poor performance.

How do you know what a contractor installs?  You watch them do it.  If the insulation is covered in walls or whatever then there isn't an exact way to tell that they did or if it is the right stuff.  You need to be there and take pictures and ask questions.  A good contractor won't care if you are doing this.


european outlets in an american building I have seen european outlets in industrial equipment made in europe but installed in the united states (often with a 480/240v step down transformer), and I have come across a couple people who want specific european appliances (hair drier, pasta press) and I was wondering what problems would arise if I were to try to install an european wall outlet. I intend to ignore the frequency issue for this question (and availability is a real challenge).

I figured I would need a matching box as the box size would be different. I have a slug buster, would it be needed? I don't expect wire size to be an issue. How much of an issue of it not being UL listed (as europe has different standards) as long as it met european safety standards. Are there other issues I would need to be aware of?

The National Electrical Code used here in the US requires that equipment be listed, marked, or approved for the use. The requirement varies with the particular part of the electrical installation. Receptacles should be listed. However, that doesn't mean they have to be UL listed. The Canadians have the CSA, the Europeans have the CE, and I am sure in Asia they have something else that I can't remember. See here.
So, the issue with an inspector could be that the receptacle(s) you install is non-standard and they would probably disallow it for satisfying any requirements of the code. At least that is what I would do. But if you want to add non-standard receptacles in a house, there is nothing in the code to prevent it. For instance, if I wanted to wire my house with DC receptacles in places where I want to use DC equipment directly from a DC system. Or I want a 240 volt receptacle next to a window for a large plug-in AC unit.
One of the things the code requires is equipment with different voltages must have receptacles that are different enough so they are not interchangeable. So 120 volt equipment cannot possibly be plugged in to a 240 volt outlet.
So, it appears that you could satisfy the code requirements by adding an extra receptacle (not by replacing an existing one) with a euro-style plug. Also you need to make sure their equipment is rated for 240 volts or you will need a transformer to step it down to 230 or 220. Then you wire it like you would the aforementioned 240 volt receptacle. (Standard NM cable in the US contains wire rated for 600 volts so the voltage rating of the wire is not a problem.)
Good luck!


Can I be certain that there is a stud here? I'm looking to mount a TV across the gap of a recessed window.  The window is set a few inches back from the wall.  The plan is to sink two screws into studs on either side of the window to fix the large VESA mount there, and then hang the TV on it.

As depicted, the stud finder I've been using detects stud centers about 5/8 - 3/4" from the edge of the window alcove.  This was indicated consistently on both sides of the window, up and down a couple of feet.
I drilled preparatory holes to sink the screws, and I think what came out was wood, but I'm not entirely certain.
There was also a little bit of curved metal that came out of one of the holes, possibly part of a drywall screw?  Given the layout of the room, it seems very unlikely that there's any electrical work in this location, so that's my best guess as to what it could be.
The TV is quite heavy and rather expensive so I'd really like to be sure that what I'm mounting it to is, in fact, wood.  Is it possible that the stud finder is wrong?  If so, what can I do to make sure that I'm placing the VESA mount in the right place?  There's really not a better location for the TV.

The window that you depict is set into a rough opening that was then banded on with drywall material. In order for that corner to be finished nice and straight the raw edges of the drywall is usually covered with corner bead strip made of metal or plastic. Then drywall mud fills in the corner from both sides and is sanded to a nice corner finish.
In your case you were probably drilling through one flange of a metal corner beading. Typical flange width from the wall corner may be from 1" to 1.5" (25mm to 40mm). Metal ones are made of thin soft steel material. Here is what a common metal corner beading looks like:

Picture Source


What to use to cut large roots I have a big Sycamore tree in my front yard and the roots are growing towards the foundation of my house.  One of the roots is about a foot from the foundation.  My husband is not able to do the work, so I will have to try and cut the roots myself.  We can't afford to hire someone to do the work. A Sycamore tree has large roots. I've tried using a hand saw and a  hatchet, but it takes a long time.
What would be the easiest tools to use to cut the roots?  I'm 73 years old, but I'm pretty strong.

If you are comfortable using power tools a Sawz-all also called a reciprocating saw will do the job. You will want a coarse blade with less than 14 teeth per inch. They are  available in battery powered models if you don't have an outlet nearby. If you have never used anything like it before ask the salesperson if they can show you how to use it safely. Ask if they have a piece of scrap wood so you can make a cut to see if you are comfortable using it.


How can I prepare an uneven beam to be wrapped with wood? We are doing a complete update of a 1975 home. The issue we can't figure out is in the living room. There is a drywall-wrapped beam at peak of vaulted ceiling that is 24' long. We want to wrap it with wood but have discovered it is inconsistent in every way possible... it sags in the middle (can't visually see it), the height varies, etc.

With being so long we can't build it first and install. But if we do it piece by piece on the beam nothing matches up because it isn't straight and equal across the beam. How do we do this???

We currently have 4x8 sheets of birch we were intending to cut and nail. Any suggestions would be so appreciated b/c we have brainstormed for weeks and searched all across the web and no ideas. Thanks!

With a helper, pull a builder's line (dryline) from one end to the other along a bottom corner of the beam. Find a good compromise that's just outside all the curves and humps. Fasten the line to the walls at each end and make sure it's very tight.
Check that you can plumb up from the line at all points along the beam without encroaching on the beam. If not, move the line outward as necessary to clear the beam.
Check the line for level and square with the room. Adjust as needed.
Set another line on the other side of the beam parallel to and level with the first, again just outside the beam's extremities.
Plumb up from both lines at the four ends and mark the ceiling. Snap chalk lines along the ceiling to establish straight lines at the top. Pull the chalkline perpendicular to the ceiling when you snap it to prevent curvature due to a non-flat surface.
At 16" intervals, fit and install shims, cut from two-by lumber, around the beam that come just shy of both lines and the ceiling marks. Don't touch the line or you'll push it out. This has a cumulative effect and will result in curves. Each set of shims should result in a plumb, level, square panel mounting base.
Install your panels over the shims as though they were a framed wall.


Identifying 2 pipe pieces I'm tasked with producing a barre. This:

And I'd like to walk into the plumbing supply store with the right words for the parts.
I realize that in screwing pipes together, one can't make a square and so this is needed:

Can someone tell me what this is?
Last, this guy:

I can tell that its function was to mount a pipe to a wall, but again, I'm sure there's a word for it. (I am seeing "Iron Floor Flange" on searches along with a couple other names, hoping to confirm that's correct).
Edit: The finished product:

Total Price: $151.37
My daughter told me the lower cross bar was for younger kids so that went away, and that 4 feet was long enough, as she wasn't ever expecting more than a couple people over.

That is a PIPE UNION.  It is needed where you are unable to screw the threads together normally.  If you look at the structure, you'll be stuck when you try to assemble the top without a union.

That is a PIPE FLANGE.  It's not usually used in plumbing per-se but is often used where iron pipes are used for other purposes such as what you are doing.


Is there a way I can get the shower arm to tighten in the 12 o'clock position? I bought an extender arm for my shower head, but when it screws tight the arm doesn't end up in the 12 o'clock position. I've had some progress of tightened position with teflon tape, but it's not predicatable and loosens easy. Is there a better way?

If you're using the Teflon tape effectively you can turn your arm through a range of angles without substantially affecting tightness. Start over and make sure you're using enough. You shouldn't actually bottom out the threaded fitting.


Old home, is this asbestos in the attic? House was built in the 40s and moved in the 70s, no idea if it was reinsulated or not after being moved

I want to preface my answer with this, you cannot definitively say if there is or is not asbestos in a space through a picture, as it requires a microscope. My assumption is based on research and your initial statement about the age of your home as well as personal experience and research.

That said, chances are high that there would be asbestos in there. However, asbestos undisturbed, isn't dangerous on it's own. It becomes dangerous once you disturb it and it is now airborne. So depending on your plans - this may or may not be cause for worry.

At the end of the day - tests are cheap. I just had some testing done last month. In fact most places offer tests for samples you take yourself (they should provide suggestions for safe handling within the instructions). For my testing it was 50CAD for the first sample, and then an extra 25CAD for each additional sample. The turn around was less than 3 business days.

So if you are really concerned...just get it tested.


Fit a door in a tight space I have a garage with an odd size entry (not bay) door. The old door, which recently broke, was only 24" x 70".

Time to put in a new door. My intent is to enlarge the opening for a more standard size. I expect this will be cheaper while also improving the structure. In fact, I can see the space where there was once a wider opening... it measures at 36" rough, which would have fit a 34" door. It should be very easy to restore this old opening, and I can get a 34" x 80" prehung door at a reasonable price.

No word yet on why a previous owner put in such a weird door ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

The problem is the height. My understanding is a 34" x 80" door needs a 36" x 82" rough opening. The entire height of the garage wall from the concrete to the bottom of the beam is only 81 3/4".

Will I be able to make the standard door fit, or will I need to do something custom? If it will fit, will I need to do anything extra to make it work?

Checking online there are the actual unit dimensions for these doors on the "Big Box" websites. I am finding the actual sizes are 81 5/8" in many cases. Tight for your opening but a little off the header will get it in. As a note, this is for an exterior door. Typically interior doors are perhaps a 1/2 shorter. If the header needs a 1/4" taken out of the bottom, and you have a 2x6 header for a 36" rough opening, there will be no issue. The sheathing on the wall outside aids in supporting the surrounding framing.


How do I remove an oil stain from my concrete driveway? Anyone have tips for removing oil stains from a concrete unpaved driveway?  The spill was from a leaking car, now fixed, and they are a few months old.  There are so many products and spurious reviews at Amazon.  I'm not sure whom to trust...

Does anyone have personal experience with products to clean these oil stains?  Our driveway like most driveways has a slight slant to allow water to run-off to the street gutters.

I've always used cat litter.  It's absorbent enough that it tends to pull the oil out of the concrete.  Not sure how well it would work on a stain once it's set in for a while though, but it's cheap enough that you don't have much to lose by trying.


Which lamp bulb for a stronger & warmer lighting? My old desk lamp uses G9, 40W Halogen capsule light bulbs and I love how warm it feels. My new lamp uses E14 LED bulbs (200 lumen, 2500k) and it's a lot weaker and colder. I don't know if it's colder because it's weaker or not.

Is there another type of bulb that would be both compatible with my lamp and recreate a lighting as strong and warm as my halogen lamp, or at least come much closer to it?

Every cousin-in-law I know comes to me with the same story: They need a way to know when a light bulb has burned out.  "Well, just look at it."  "Well, I can't, it's out in the doghouse or chicken coop".  (suspecting what's really called for here is a switch to LED) "Why do dogs/chickens need light?" "They don't. They need heat.  I'm using it to heat their space during the winter chills.  Loss of the heat places them in danger."

#include picard_facepalm.gif

And my answer is... Get an Actual Heater. And I go hit McMaster-Carr and (we're in 120V territory) find an industrial 240V heating element 4x their desired wattage, or a 480V element 16x their desired wattage, and I say "Install this".  And then they do, and 2 winters later they say "Thank you".

Heat

The problem here is that you are abusing your light to be a comfort heater.  And you have confused "warm" thermally and "strong" as signs of a good bulb (actually, in lighting, "warm" means something else, it means color of light blue vs orange).  Actually they are signs of an inefficient bulb that starts fires.

So find a way to get an actual heater that gives you the warmth you crave.  It can be hard finding a 40W heater, and I gather you're outside North America, which makes things tougher - as any heating element will either be 230V or 400V, and running a 400V heater on 230V gives 1/3 the heat. (230/400 squared).

Light

Halogens are good for roughly 15 lumens/watt.  So your 40W halogen was about 600 lumens.

You say your new lamp is 200 lumens. That explains why it seems dimmer. It is dimmer.

But that's because you willingly chose an LED bulb that is very dim, even by that bulb size's standards. For instance "Buy this with this" engine on Ikea's site recommends this bulb, which is 470 lumens.

I don't know what to tell you. You bought it.  Buy something else.


How can I add a programmable timer to a circuit breaker so that I can force specific circuits on/off at specific times? My father-in-law suffers from dementia.  His doctor wants him to go to bed at 11 PM, but he often refuses and stays up way later than he should watching TV.  We have him set up with a separate suite with bedroom/bath/TV room.

I want to attach a timer to the breakers that control both the lights and outlets in the TV room to force those to turn off at 11 PM and (hopefully) get him into bed for his health at the appropriate time.

Is attaching a timer to the breaker panel a feasible way to accomplish the above?  Other suggestions would be appreciated if not.

Timer-controlled or remote-controlled circuit breakers are available, but I've never seen them in a residential application. In addition to the breaker, you would also need a controller, which is likely cost prohibitive.

What would probably be cheaper is a standard hardwired electrical timer. If you mount it to the side of the breaker panel with a tiny piece of conduit you can probably just disconnect the wire from the breaker and run it to the timer without having to extend it. Then just run a new neutral and ground in to the timer and a new hot wire from the breaker to the timer.

This is not much more work than replacing a breaker.


Rigid foam board in walls between studs, plus fiberglass batt? I've got access to some discounted (factory seconds) of rigid foam board and looking to cut it up and place it against the exterior walls on the inside of an old (1894) converted house that is now four 1br apartments. Thinking of going with 1" of rigid foam board and then adding a fiberglass batt on the inside of that. With the old house, the 2x4 studs are actually at least 4", not 3.5.
It's in southern Illinois and I'm trying to get some good advice on whether I should be concerned about vapor barrier and if the fiberglass batt makes this better or worse?

I am doing exactly this, but the reason for the rigid foam is to create an air channel along the underside of the roof to allow airflow up to the ridge vent. The layering is, from the outside inwards, roof, 1 in. airspace, rigid foam, batts, vapor barrier (plastic), drywall.

Understand that the function of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from migrating from the warm side into the total thickness of insulation towards the cold side, where at some point the temperature gradient will drop enough to cause condensation. You do NOT want this to occur inside the insulation. The fact that the rigid foam is also a vapor barrier is not a problem as long as you have a correct barrier immediately behind the drywall.

If by "adding batt inside" you meant "inside the wall - towards the roof", then I would not rely on the rigid foam acting as a sufficient vapor barrier unless you made a point of carefully sealing all the edges with Acousiseal. Preventing air migration past the insulation is critical to its effectiveness, and you must also provided for ventilation of the roof material itself.


Can Smart Switches work with Smart Bulbs? I recently got my first Smart Bulb for a living room lamp & I love it:

My Google Assistant can see it
I can turn it on & off using Google Assistant voice commands
I can change the lighting color using Google Assistant voice commands

Now, I want to try the same kind of thing for my outside & hallway lights.  My initial research says:

Smart Bulbs are good for Lamps
Smart Switches are good for hallways (and such)

But, I do not see anything talking about using BOTH at the same time.

I want to be able to turn on/off my hallways (or other areas) lighting using voice commands.  But I also want to be able to change the color with my Google Assistant too.

Is this possible?
How do I do it?
What are the pitfalls?

Thank you.

You still have to comply with Building Codes

The Building Codes are crystal clear: There must be a physical switch, in a quasi-standard location (you can walk into any room anywhere and your hand knows the 2-3 places to grope for a switch).  The switch must be accessible by people who aren't you, and the switch must operate a light that works.  That includes guests and first responders.

Of late, the recent trend is for people to get so excited about these smart dingbats that they forget to make their house accessible to anyone else.   You can do that to your heart's content with auxiliary lighting; and you can make this auxiliary lighting your personal primary lighting. However the actual primary light - the one on the obvious switch - has to work everytime.  Not turn it on and find somebody's set it to 5% brightness on their phone.
Nothing says you need to use this primary lighting, ever; in my family we never use it. As long as the primary light works for a visitor.

I'm sure you've also gone into restaurant bathrooms to find the room pitch black, and to find some sort of smart device on the wall that you have to futz with, typically a defunct motion sensor with a hard on/off button as backup. That's another example of what not to do.

In the family

So, this narrows you to combinations of smart bulbs and smart switches that are "in the family": that can talk to each other.  The smart switch needs to be able to override whatever you did with your phone, and make the light white and bright based on ignorant groping by an inexperienced user with gloved hand, as you would expect from a fireman trying to see if the room is evacuated.

Now, obviously there's a stupid way to hook up a smart switch with a smart bulb. If the smart switch severs power to the smart bulb, then the bulb becomes uncontrollable because it has no power. Only one device can actually control a bulb; all other devices must ask its permission.  This is why the switch needs to be able to talk to the bulb.  You might rewire the switch so the bulb is on 24x7 and the switch taps the power it needs to be online.


Can I repair this cold water hose? I am trying to fix tap that has a leaky hose that leaks where 3/8 nut is. It leaks only when I move the nut. Presumably because I over-tightened it last time.

I went to Lowe's and Home Depot and they did not have a replacement hose because of the unconventional 1/8 brass pipe fitting end that goes into tap.

The questions I have:

Is it possible to repair such hoses by replacing just the rubber seal on the 3/8 compression fitting end? If yes, what part do I need to fix it?
Any other tricks to try so that I could avoid to replace the tap?
Home depot plumber told me it is 1/8 brass pipe fitting, but is it really true? On amazon I found visually similar hose where other end was called M10 connector. So which one of these two is it?

Update#1: Here  is close up. It leaks just behind the nut where arrow points. Leak gets worse if I wiggle the hose.

I was able to reuse hose by just replacing the o-ring.


Laminate Stair Nose Installation Below are all the pictures that correspond to my question.

Last night I installed some stair nose molding and tried to follow the instructions the best I could (the part of the instructions in question is below). Now, I do not own a countersink bit, but did my best to do so with what I had.

The board fits perfect, it is ready to go except the screwheads are a little unsightly. I am concerned that the "filler" that the instructions suggest I used can't be blended properly. Has anyone come across this?

As I see it I have two options:

1) Buy a countersink bit to clean up the holes and tidy things up, the fill as instructed.

2) Replace this board and fasten a way that you guys suggest?

Any advice would be great on either option.

I apologize I only was able to post one of the pics of the screws used in installation I am posting this from the office and the other pictures is just a blurry, poorly lit mess. But both are roughly the same.

Thanks for your insights.

You should get yourself the counter sink drill bit for the screws. They are not expensive and will create a much nicer appearance as they can let you drill down into the molding so that the screw head is fully below the surface and much easier to conceal with the matching trim putty.

Another thing to consider is that when installing with the trim piece with construction adhesive this is the primary thing holding the trim in place. The main job of the screws is to hold the trim in place until the construction adhesive dries. For this reason it is not necessary to use screws with huge diameter heads. A smaller screw like a #6 or #8 that is the length specified by the trim manufacturer should be more than adequate.

If this were my application and only installing such molding at the head of the stairs I would consider using only construction adhesive and placing heavy weights on the molding for 24-36 hours. If you use something like concrete blocks for the weights protect the surface of the trim and floor using some rosin paper.

Another thing I notice from your picture is that it appears that you are installing this molding before you have dealt with baseboard moldings at the wall. This is the incorrect order to do this. Instead install the baseboard first and the fit the molding full length up to the baseboard. There is no real need for an expansion gap for the molding itself because it is relatively short.


What is this metal block found in our yard? We found this metal block while digging in our yard.
It is 3x4x11 inches, very heavy (around 30 lbs), and shows rust.
Our property is in Charlotte, North Carolina.
Does anyone know what it is and its purpose?

Steel barstock; My guess is some one picked it up where he works to use such as an anvil . It has little cash value so was abandoned when there was no more use or it did not do the job. I have had a few chunks like that , but what do you do with a pressure vessel nozzle cut-out 8" thick 12" diameter of chrome -moly steel ? They get very heavy . This reminds me , many decades ago I had a 4 ft long 18" diameter heavy wall pipe I was going to make into a lawn roller , but I left it behind the shed when I got divorced. Someone is wondering what that is.


Gas Range 20 amp Circuit Breaker I have a gas range. 120v, 16 Gauge 15 amp Plug. Can I use the 20 amp Ciruit Breaker that is currently in the house?

Standard appliance cordage is usually 16 AWG and yes you can plug this device (stove) into a 120v 20 amp circuit. Toasters and hair dryers are usually larger because of the load but your range is listed for use on a 15 or 20 amp circuit.


How can I test a three-way switch to determine if it's working? I have a light fixture in my house that suddenly stopped working.  I tried replacing the lightbulb and still non luck so I decided to try and see if it was the three way light switch itself using a multimeter, but I'm having trouble deciphering the results.

From what I understand, I should be able to:

Turn off power to the circuit
take my multimeter and put it in continuity mode
touch the two screws that are on the same side
when I flip the switch back and forth it should alternate between beeping and not.
The same but beeping for the opposite positions when I touch the screw on the other side of the light switch instead of the screw below

When I perform this test, it beeps regardless of the position when I touch the screws that are on the same side and it doesn't beep at all when I touch the screw on the other side.  Does this mean that my switch is broken or am I testing incorrectly?  If it is broken, wouldn't the light be on all the time instead of not turning on at all?

Another interesting thing that I noticed - all of the screws on the side of the switch were loose.  I went ahead and tightened them up, was that the correct thing to do?  What effect could the loose screws have on the light?

Images of the switch below:

1: You have a 3 way switch which has a traveler line.
your odds of having a bad 3 way keeping the fixture from not working while possible would mean that both positions [Off and On] of the switch fail, or both switches have failed. Because when one switch is off the other line is working (either of the switches can turn the light on or off.)

2: Measure for voltage at the fixture wires.

Turn one switch On and then Off while measuring do you have any voltage ?
Turn the other switch On and then Off while measuring do you have any voltage ?

I am going to post a wiring diagram of a 3 way switch lighting circuit so you can see how and where you need to place your leads when checking the switches. I would be measuring VOLTAGE.

There has been a comment on using the push terminals on the electrical switch or using the terminal screws - the push is faster and more likely why people use it and also if you have connected runs.
Don't hook two wires on one Screw , use the push terminal to make that additional connection.

As for removing wires from the push terminals:
I use a 3.5mm Slotted Screw Driver mine is just like the one pictured below and I have no issues with it - of course I am experienced with push terminals and know that you must insert into the release mechanism and apply pressure on the release either by a slight twist of the screw driver (recommended) or using a prying motion to open the release.

You can obtain the tool from here :

https://www.crum.com/2307041/Product/3.5MM_RED_SLOTTED_SCREWDRIVER

I am not endorsing this vendor, I am posting their link because that is where I obtained the picture from. I have no affiliation with them and have never done business with them.


ok to put these two water heaters on a sub-panel? I have a sub-panel, with currently only a single conventional water heater connected (4500 watt non-simultaneous).  The sub-panel is protected by a 50amp double-pole breaker in the main panel, wired with 6ga Romex.  The water heater is wired with 10ga Romex, protected by a 30amp breaker in the sub-panel.   So far, so good.   However, I want to add a 5700 watt tankless water heater to the sub-panel; it also requires a 30amp breaker (and 10ga wire).   Is this ok ?  All wiring is sufficient to the size breaker protecting it, so it should be safe.   And we know it's ok for breakers in a panel to sum up to more than the main breaker for that panel (e.g. all the breakers in a main panel typically far exceed the panel's overall rating).  But the total wattage (should the tankless be activated while the main one is heating) would be 10.2kw, or 42.5 amps at 240v.   That seems to be cutting it close for the 50amp breaker protecting the main panel, so I'm wondering if I'm likely to see it trip.   Also don't want to violate code, even though this work will not be inspected.

Go ahead and put both loads on the same subpanel -- you don't need a relay for this, as the tankless heater isn't a continuous load (i.e. I can think of no situation where the domestic hot water should be running in a house for 3 hours straight!).

(The feeder calculations are as per 215.2(A)(1)(a) -- 125% of the 4500W storage heater is 5625W + the 5700W tankless heater yields 11325W, which is 47A@240VAC.)


Two hall lights not working with light switches Bought older home where tenants took various lighting fixtures with them. One was one of the hall lights. Where this fixture was there are three separate 12/2 with ground coming into it. Inside the ceiling box is the following - two black wires are together with wire nuts, a black and white wire are wire nutted together, and there are two white wires that are loose, but the way they are sorted twisted at the end, I'm thinking at one time they were wire nutted together. I'm trying to find out which wires to connect the white and black wires from new fixture to. I'm assuming that since there is a light switch at each end of the hallway, you should be able to turn on/off both lights at the same time from either light switch.

It sounds like a 3 way switch setup, use caution when working with 3 ways because there can be power and the light is off (no return path)and you can get shocked by providing a path to ground.
  I would start with the 2 loose white wires that are twisted connecting them to the new fixture black and white. then checking positions of switches that is the most likely solution.
I have seen 3 ways wired dozens of different ways and this is one.


What type of adapter should I use to turn a cordless drill in to a corded drill? I have old Bosch PSR12 driver/drill that all NiCA are dead.
I've modified it successfully to work as Corded after removing batteries and connecting 12V 1.5A (220v) adapter.
The drill works but when I push for full speed it stops, So I guess the adapter is just not enough.
The Battery box has a 12V 1.2aH label on it.

What adapter should I get ?
Doesnt 1.2aH equiplivent to 1A ?

No - aH (More commonly Ah since M. Ampere is a proper name, and hours are just hours) is Amperes*hours and is a quantity of charge. 1.2 Amperes for 1 hour, 2.4 amperes for 30 minutes, 0.6 Amperes for 2 hours - all = 1.2 Ah.

NiCads (when happy) are capable of providing very large currents - so you'll need a 12V adapter with a bit more current capability to be able to run your drill at full speed as a "corded" drill. Cut and try is the best I can suggest - i.e., find a 2.5A or 3A 12V DC supply and see if it will run the drill at full load or not - or else find a large 12VDC battery (such as a car battery) and a DC ammeter and see what the drill actually uses for current when under full load. A car battery charger is often the cheapest high current 12VDC supply available, unless you have an old computer power supply with a high current 12V section. The only trick there is that a 12V (nominal) lead acid battery (as from a car) actually operates at a slightly higher voltage than a 12V NiCad battery pack...


How do I reduce door shut noise? I live in a 3 bedroom shared house and want to reduce the noise that the bathroom door makes when it closes.

I tried to find a photo of the door.  It's basically a old mansion block of apartments in London.  The door has a brass knob and stained glass is about an inch thick wooden.  I don't know if you can picture the old type of door I am describing?  It's very badly sealed.  When the door is closed it makes a loud sound when the door touches the door frame, then you twist the knob and then it springs back slightly - all the doors inside the apartment are the same and this one wakes me up at night.

Any ideas?

I guess you could try putting some thin foam or felt stick on pads on the inside of the door frame where the door contacts it. This should lower the sound of the wood to wood contact.  If the knob hardware is also loud, try using some dry silicon spray lubricant on the moving parts and on the door hinges.  Sleep well.....


How should I connect my new light switches? I have 2 bedrooms in which I am trying to swap the old light switches out with new switches. After removing covers, found the old switches had 2 black wires connected to the two terminals, and 2 white wires connected by a wire nut - separately from the switch.

When I installed the new switch in the same configuration, the light wouldn't work.

What should I do to identify & fix the problem?

What you describe is very typical in cases where power comes into the switch box (as opposed to the light box). The hot leg is switched.

image source

Simply move the blacks to your new switch in either terminal configuration. Be sure to use clean, solid loops and wrap them clockwise. Leave the whites alone.


What is the correct way to tile a wall when there are existing electrical sockets I will be tiling a backsplash in my kitchen. Currently there is none, and the new backsplash will cover areas that currently have electric sockets.
So my question is this do you:

Remove front cover of socket, tile slightly over the back box and then put the front back, will now require longer screws because of gap between front and back box)
or

Remove front cover of socket, pull the back box out slightly so the front of the backbox is flush with the front of the tiles, tile up to the edge of the backbox, screw front plate back on to the front of the backbox.

Most electric receptacles are installed into the box with long screws that have a special backing washer. The washer is there to hold out the receptacle, so you can loosen the screws until your receptacle is flush with the outer surface of the wall. The face plate is then fastened to the receptacle. In the US, the screws from the receptacle to box are at the top and bottom of the box (or left and right if mounted horizontally) and the faceplate attaches in the center for a typical outlet, and at top & bottom for switches, GFCI outlets, and many newer-style outlets and switches.

If you can get enough extra distance out of those, then you can tile right up to the edge of the electrical box. Here's an example of an outlet that has been set to protrude a bit outside the box:

Note that you should tile around the edge of the box - don't tile right up to the edges of the receptacle within. This way the receptacle can be accessed if needed. The faceplate will cover past the edges of the box.

If your tile layer is too thick for this simple approach, you may need to move your electrical box out. If you have old work boxes (the kind that are installed by clamping or screwing into the wall), you may be able to loosen them and re-mount them once you've tiled. If your boxes are fastened to structure, you won't be able to adjust them - you'll have to cut them out and mount new ones. Because you're redoing the wall surface, this isn't a huge deal. But there is a shortcut available, the electrical box extender:

As you can see, that's designed for exactly your case. It's preferable to have a properly mounted box, but when that is not practical this gives you an easy alternative.


What do you call conventional wood staining that doesn't result in a glazed effect? I am shopping around for a new kitchen, which I want to have finished in stained wood. What seems to be quite popular these days is "glazing" which seems intended to highlight any texture, relief, milling, etc. in the wood surface, darkening grooves etc., often imparting a sort of antique look, but this is not the effect I want.

My question is: is there a specific term to describe the absence of this glaze effect - a stain finish which only brings out the natural grain of the wood, but otherwise gives a uniform coloring to the wood, regardless of how the wood surface is cut, milled, etc.?

I'm not sure there is a term that exists for cabinets without glaze. As you mention, this effect is really popular right now, and it's going to be difficult to find non-glazed cabinets from a big box retailer.

You could try working with a dedicated cabinetmaker and express your interest in some non-glazed examples.

To others who are confused by the question. Glaze is not a stain. After a stain is sealed, a glaze can be added (to add highlights, shadows), which is then sealed again under the finish of choice (e.g. polyurethane).

One can buy glaze, or they can make their own by mixing acrylic paints (the dye) and some sort extender (e.g. paint thinner and linseed oil, or clear acrylic glazing liquid).


What is the most affordable equipment required for brazing? I'd like to have an economical brazing torch for small jobs.  I've been reading that propane & air is the new acetylene or mapp for brazing.

This item on Grainger mentions propane/air as the fuel, but this is a little inconsistent with other sites' listings for the same item:

Also, I feel like the image is deceiving me as to the complexity of the product.  I don't understand how a few hoses and brass can amount to anything over $30.  This one is listed at almost $400!

Is this the minimum product/investment necessary for brazing?
Besides a tank of propane, is it the ONLY product that I need?
How is the compressed air supplied?
Are the threaded nubs on Acetylene, MAPP, Oxygen, and Propane all the same such that the hose fittings are interchangeable?  How about the regulators?
Does the standard grill-tank propane tank threaded nubs work or are smaller canisters required?

The main difference between most torches is the maximum temperature it is capable of handling. So you can use propane as the fuel in MAPP torch (which burns hotter), for example.

The second difference will be whether it uses compressed oxygen, or just the air around it. If it uses compressed oxygen it will burn hotter.

Approximate burn temperatures ( as found on Wikipedia )

propane/air 3,630 °F (2,000 °C)
MAPP/air 3,670 °F (2,020 °C)
propane/oxygen 4,530 °F (2,500 °C)
acetylene/oxygen 6,330 °F (3,500 °C).

For more information read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting

There are also some differences in the construction of torches that make them more suitable for use with some fuels over others.

For brazing, I would start out with one of those propane/air, or MAPP/air torches that just screw onto the end of those small bottles you find at hardware stores. They are usually packaged with a bottle of fuel, because they are so cheap.

If you then find that those don't put out enough heat, or you're constantly going through bottles of fuel, then upgrade.


Condenser, (heat pump) covered in pollen - does it need to be vacuumed - pic attached So my Condenser, (heat pump) is covered in pollen - does it need to be vacuumed or will the wind/rain take this away naturally?

Here is what it looks like:

Yes, you should clean it. Or better, have a professional clean it. Watch how they do it, and take notes.  Then next time, you can clean it yourself. The technician may take the cover off the unit, and spray from the inside out.

If you're going to do it yourself, check the manufacturer's documentation for the approved cleaning method.  It usually involves gently rinsing it with a garden hose, though may recommend a cleaning spray. There are loads of videos on YouTube, that describe how to properly clean the unit.

Whatever you do, be gentle, and DO NOT scrub, brush, or in any way touch the fins.  They are very delicate, and can be bent and damaged with the lightest touch. Even spraying them with a high pressure nozzle on your hose can cause damage, so be careful when cleaning the unit.

Warning: Don't forget to turn the power off using the disconnect, before performing this, or any other maintenance on the unit.


How do I repair this leaking toilet supply nut? I've got a leaky toilet that I'm trying to fix (and in the process making worse). The leak seems to be coming from the brass nut on the right of the photo here:

This nut has a washer in it so hopefully replacing either the nut or the washer will do the trick. Can anyone recommend/help with:

If I should try to replace the whole nut or just the washer inside it
Where I can buy replacements for these in the UK (I don't know what to search for on B&Q...)
If I'm replacing the nut, can anyone guide me on how to remove this from the pipe (it
didn't seem to come off easily!)
The white tube currently rotates as I try to tighten (or loosen) the nut. Any recommendations to stop this in order to get a tighter seal?

There will indeed be some type of rubber, silicone or other type of flexible materal washer thing inside the nut. The cross section picture below attempts to show how the typical compression fitting of this type works.

As the nut tightens it compresses the "rubber" part against the end of the threaded plastic piece and around the outside of the incoming water line. Leaks can arise as from this "rubber" part getting hard and inflexible. The chorine added to water can accelerate this this problem. Over tightening the compression nut will also lead to problems. Sometimes a corrosive build up on the water tube can also lead to leak issues. Usually it is combination of all three elements and everything is OK till there is some flexure in the joint and then it starts to leak.

To fix it is suggested to replace the compression nut and the "rubber" part. If the inlet tubing is corroded then clean it up with steel wool. If the plastic threaded part is stripped from previous over tightening then you will also have to replace the fill valve assembly in the tank too. You should be able to find replacement parts at hardware or home stores. Replacement parts are usually fairly reasonable in cost.


How reliable are the following methods to treat hard water for home use? How reliable are the following methods to treat hard water for home use?

Not looking for drinking purpose/RO, but for Bathing/Washing etc

Electronic AntiScale System
Magnetic Water Softener
Salt Based/Resin Based Water softeners

Please do comment

From Coastal Area, Chennai, India

Magnetic and electronic water softening devices do not reduce the level of calcium, magnesium, etc in your water. Don't waste your money on them.

Resin water softeners that require salt are the best way to continually soften all of your water.

Technically it's not the only way, a reverse osmosis membrane can also soften water, but typically not in the quantities needed without getting very expensive. A few gallons a day for drinking is usually the limit. I use RO water for the rinse cycle in my dishwasher, but I'd never be able to generate enough for laundry or showering.

A good rule of thumb is if the device used to soften the water never sends water to a drain, then it's very unlikely to actually reduce the level of water hardness. Even activated carbon water filters make a negligible difference in water hardness.


Can a 20A GFCI be added to beginning of a 20A circuit that serves (8) 15A receptacles & light fixtures? There's a 20A circuit that passes right by a spot I need an additional outlet for a lamp/general use near laundry. Currently it serves about 8 devices, either single bulb light fixtures or 15A 3-prong receptacles. Because the receptacle I'd add on would be near laundry, it needs to be GFCI. It would be the only GFCI on the circuit from what I can tell.

Since the circuit is rated for 20A, and the wiring is 12/2, can I put a 20A GFCI in? On the other hand, since most of the receptacles the circuit serves are 15A, for all I know some past amatuers have 14/2 in some segments of the circuit, would I be better off installing a 15A GFCI if I don't intend to use it for anything intensive?

There's two problems I see here

There's probably no need for a 20A plug. Let's be honest, how often have you looked at your outlets and gone "Man, I really wish I had a 20A plug right here!" in your laundry room? Washers are 15A, gas dryers are 15A and electric dryers need a dedicated 30A two phase plug. What are you going to use that's 20A? Don't add 20A just for the sake of having 20A. For a shop or garage, maybe, but inside your home you'll rarely need anything more than 15A.
I would just GFCI the outlet you need, and 15A at that (remember, a 20A GFCI will be more expensive). Too many people think that they must use the LOAD side of their GFCI because it's serial wiring. Or we're wasting the plug somehow if it's only protecting that one outlet. NOT SO! Wire in series only those outlets that need a GFCI. If they don't need GFCI protection then just pigtail the connections and leave the GFCI out of the series.


How to fix sagging composite deck railing I have a composite deck (Fiberon boards with a Trex Designer railing system).  The guy that built the deck didn't install any of the crush/foot blocks and now the railings are sagging.  He's no longer in business, so now I need to try and fix this myself.  I found a place online https://www.diyhomecenter.com/trex/transcend-railing-adjustable-footblock.aspx that sells the adjustible foot block, but I don't know if that'd do me any good.  How can I install the footblocks now that the deck railing are already in place?

EDIT: This isn't my railing, but it's basically the same problem

Should be pretty simple. You just need a way to gently raise the railing up enough to get the block underneath. I would do this slowly over a number of days and raise it the absolute minimum amount. Once you get there, slide the block underneath, slowly remove the support, and you're done.


I cut the ground wire on my chandelier before knowing what it was. What do I do? I bought a home, and the kitchen nook chandelier had been shortened so it would not hang long. When I began letting it down to hang normally, I saw a brown wire that I thought was holding it up to shorten it. I cut the wire. I then learned that it was not used to shorten it, but it was the ground wire. What must I do? Will a fire start if I switch the light on?

Metal parts of luminaires are required by the National Electrical Code to be grounded. This is for safety in case the "hot" wire contacts the metal of the luminaire and it becomes energized, the ground wire will complete the circuit and cause enough current to flow to trip the breaker.

Chain hung luminaires accomplish grounding by weaving a small bare wire through the chain to the luminaire. If you cut the wire the luminaire will work normally except in the case I mentioned above. In that case the metal of the luminaire is now energized but the breaker does not trip because there is no return path. Until someone touches the metal part of the fixture and touches a grounded object at the same time. This then completes the path through the person with disastrous results.

In residential settings there not as many grounded objects as in industrial and commercial locations. However, safety is of prime concern so the requirement for grounding metal luminaires now applies in all settings.

So, you could splice the wire with a butt splice, although this would not be very attractive.

Or, you could replace the wire with a new piece of bare copper wire. Luminaires usually have a #16 to 20 gauge wire as the ground. If you can't find anything smaller a bare piece of #14 copper will do just fine.

Good luck and stay safe!