What smart device options do I have for poor lighting in living room? My living room does not have great electrical lighting. The room is about 18'x12' with a fireplace on the far, short wall.

Above the fireplace there are two angled recessed lights (can aim them in a direction, if wanted). These are far from the rest of the room and do not light up half of the room at night.

One outlet (yes, only one - which is the dumbest decision) is connected to a switch at the entrance to the room). I have two lamps connected to this which is great but we have a third lamp in the opposite corner that is not hooked up to the switch. It annoys me more than it should that I have to manually turn on this one lamp.

Are there any smart options (wifi plug or outlet, for example) that would allow me to have all three lamps turn on with the flip of the light switch? The switch and the third lamp are on different circuits, unfortunately.

Or is there any easy way to add more recessed lights or add outlets to the switched circuit?

There are lots of plug-in receivers, or controllable outlets, for the various home automation systems. Then all you need is a compatible transmitting switch, possibly battery operated.

Example: I currently have an X10 setup (cheapest home-automation product in all senses of the word cheap; adequate for playing with for now) in my living room where a remote sends signal to a receiver, which puts the signal onto the power line, which carries it to a plug-in on/off/dimmer module, which powers the swag lamp hanging from the ceiling. I could have several other receivers set to the same channel if I wanted other lamps to respond in unison with this one.


Chair rail or tile cap in bathroom? The previous homeowners put tile approximately halfway up the bathroom wall, and there it goes right into the drywall/plaster.  Is it better to put a chair rail (composite?) between the two, or is it better to put tile at the border?  Unfortunately there isn't any gap above the last row of tile - the top of the tile is mostly flush with the wall.  There's also some vertical areas where the tile continues into the tub area as well.

In the general sense, a physical border like tile cap or chair rail between two building materials is usually aesthetic, provided that the materials were installed properly. The one exception to this is in the case of a material with significant expansion potential with changes in climate (namely wood); in that case, a border can hide the necessary expansion joint. While that may apply here, the proper solution to allow for expansion is a bead of silicone caulk between the different materials.

Frankly, this job looks very poorly done, and I would question exactly how they got a flush surface. My guess is that they installed backer up to a certain point, tiled over the backer board (with or without an underlayment) and then installed gypsum drywall above that to create the flush surface (concrete backer + tile ~= one layer of drywall in thickness). The problem is that the grout of the last course (which is porous and not waterproof) is right up against drywall (or plaster, joint compound, or other porous non-waterproof building material). The end result will be that the grout will absorb water and wick it upwards to the drywall, which will absorb it and disintegrate. Generally speaking, two porous materials should never contact each other when moisture is a concern; the material that can handle moisture permeation (concrete, grout, earth) will wick it into the material that cannot (wood, drywall, plaster) and degrade it over time.

Anyway, what I would do in this case, if you wanted to try to save it, is remove the grout between the tile and drywall wherever it exists, and then install a T-border of some impervious substance as a barrier between the two materials, bedded in an adhesive caulk. The T-border will help prevent moisture transfer between tile and drywall, and provide a clean line between the two materials.

That's not an ideal solution, and honestly, if I were you and had the money to tear it all down and start over from the studs, it would give me the peace of mind that everything had been done properly. A couple of pictures give the impression that the previous homeowners didn't finish their reno, so there may be very little in it if you just started over. I also see inconsistencies in tile height, alignment, fit/finish, etc that tell me the installer didn't know or didn't care how to do it right, which means there could be serious underlying issues that could bite you. But, money's always an issue, and if you don't know how to DIY it properly and can't afford to hire the job out then I would tell you to try to make the best of what's there.


What is cable reinforced rope used in playground nets called? This children in this photo are climbing on a rope play structure made out of cable reinforced rope. Does rope like this, that is gentle on hands,  have a specific name? I've been trying to Google it without much luck. I'm looking to buy a spool.

I'm also looking for the connectors used to join the rope together.

Wire core rope is the thing to search for. You probably want the polyester and maybe a bright and attractive color if you are doing something for kids. Good luck.


Splice to repair damaged 100A aluminum feeder I recently drilled through the floor to run a CAT6 cable and hit the main feed to our panel. I'm in a duplex with a meter main panel with 2 meters and 2 100A breakers, one for each unit. The cable that runs from the meter main to the sub-panel in my unit got damaged. Basically a big arc and flash as I bridged the hot and neutral, the tip of the drill bit was vaporized.

It did not trip the main 100A breaker. I temporarily fixed it by opening up the cavity between the ceiling and the floor, and insulating the damaged conductors after I removed the sheathing. I estimate that maybe 20% of the conductor is locally removed when I hit it with the drill. I'm not sure what the gauge of the wire is. I've included some pictures from the sheathing where I could see it. I think it is #1 or #2 aluminum. Based on the fact that it supplies the entire dwelling, I think the cable needs to be rated for 83A, even though it is a 100A service. I've learned in the past on this forum that "2AWG aluminum SE is allowed to carry 90A when terminated on 75°C lugs as per 338.10(B)(4)(a)".

I would like to repair the cable, and I'm thinking that the inline splicers from Polaris can be used for this, specifically a ISR-1/0. I would need to put a box around this to make it an accessible junction box.
Would this be an acceptable permanent repair, or are there better ways to fix this cable? And what do you think is the gauge of the cable?

Thanks

You'll need a pretty chunky box for those splices

Wires 4AWG and up can't be spliced in any old junction box as they're simply too stiff and fat to fit into junction-box-sized boxes.  Instead, you need to use what's called a pull box in the trade to house your splicing job, which invokes the box sizing rules in NEC 314.28(A), specifically (A)(2):

  (A) Minimum Size. For raceways containing conductors of
  4 AWG or larger that are required to be insulated, and for
  cables containing conductors of 4 AWG or larger, the minimum
  dimensions of pull or junction boxes installed in a raceway or
  cable run shall comply with 314.28(A)(1) through (A)(3).
  Where an enclosure dimension is to be calculated based on the
  diameter of entering raceways, the diameter shall be the metric
  designator (trade size) expressed in the units of measurement
  employed.

  (2) Angle or U Pulls, or Splices. Where splices or where angle
  or U pulls are made, the distance between each raceway entry
  inside the box or conduit body and the opposite wall of the
  box or conduit body shall not be less than six times the metric
  designator (trade size) of the largest raceway in a row. This
  distance shall be increased for additional entries by the amount
  of the sum of the diameters of all other raceway entries in the
  same row on the same wall of the box. Each row shall be calculated individually, and the single row that provides the maximum distance shall be used.

  Exception: Where a raceway or cable entry is in the wall of a box or
  conduit body opposite a removable cover, the distance from that wall to
  the cover shall be permitted to comply with the distance required for one
  wire per terminal in Table 312.6(A).

  The distance between raceway entries enclosing the same
  conductor shall not be less than six times the metric designator
  (trade size) of the larger raceway.

  When transposing cable size into raceway size in
  314.28(A)(1) and (A)(2), the minimum metric designator
  (trade size) raceway required for the number and size of
  conductors in the cable shall be used.

As a result of this, we come up with 477mm2 for a 1-1-1-3 aluminum SER cable at slightly under 1" diameter, which fits into a 1.5" conduit (it's slightly too large for a 1.25" conduit).  So, we'll need an 10" by 10" by 4", NEMA 1 (indoor rated), screw cover pull box (the Wiegmann SC101004 should do the trick), along with a matching flushmount cover (Wiegmann SCF1010), and cable entrance fittings that can work with such a large cable.  The Polaris connectors you have chosen will work fine for splicing, by the way: the only caveat with them is that you'll need to use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten them to their specification torque for a reliable connection (this is required by 110.14(D) of the 2017 NEC).


What is the proper way to insulate a cantilevered bay? I have two areas of my house which are cantilevered. One is a bay area which extends about 2'. The other is the bottom of a fireplace box (gas fireplace). I have placed two layers of R-13 (I think) insulation in this area, but inside the house it's like a heat sink where all of the heat is sucked out ... very cold to the touch in the winter time. Obviously there must be a better way to insulate this area.

My question is, what is the best way to insulate a cantilevered area so as to allow the inside area of the house to not be so cold in the winter time?

In ascending order of cost, difficulty, and expense:

Bump-outs are notoriously leaky because of their complicated construction. Seal all air leaks in the applicable areas that you can find using caulk for small holes and gaps and expanding spray foam for larger ones. Cover any exposed spray foam with drywall or spackling compound to protect it from ignition, especially near a gas fireplace.
Remove any drywall or flooring materials in the area and insulate any stud bays that are currently empty or full of crappy fiberglass insulation with far superior Roxul mineral wool insulation, then replace the drywall and/or flooring.
Remove any siding materials on the outside to expose the housewrap or tar paper over the sheathing, and cover it with rigid foam or rigid mineral wool boards and re-install the siding. Note: to do this properly, please read http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/bareports/ba-1204-external-insulation-masonry-walls-wood-framed-walls/view?topic=resources/retrofits


Central heating system / boiler does not shut off I'm hoping someone here can help with a mysterious fault with our central heating system, which sometimes gets stuck and runs all day even when the timer is off.

It's a standard (for the UK) low-pressure system with cold water tank in the loft & hot water tank in a cupboard, 3-way valve, gas boiler, radiators, and Honeywell ST9400C timer / controller.

The system is wired as per the diagram below.

The problem is that, sometimes, the system will not shut off even though both timer relays (HW + CH) are OFF - the 3-way valve stays in the 'M' position (HW + CH) and the boiler & pump keep running.

I have changed the timer so pretty sure the relays aren't sticking there, I have checked the room thermostat isn't sticking, which leaves me looking at the hot water cylinder stat as the likely culprit - would others agree with this or have I missed something?

The reason I'm doubting myself a bit is the valve being stuck in "M" (HW+CH) rather than just "H" (HW only), although I'm not sure if this is thrown off slightly by the controller relays being OFF?

Here in the USA. we now only use 120volt control systems since it has been found that 230 volt control systems can cause problems similar to what you are describing. Many years ago we utilized 240 volt controls since it was easier to use 2 legs of 240 volt 3 phase systems to get control power. After it was discovered that these systems caused numerous drastic system failures , they were outlawed in favor of 120 volt control systems. I witnessed many failures; (overheatings, explosions, meltdowns, etc.). The wiring print you show is pretty simple so I have to ask "is this the whole wiring system showing all the controls or just a small portion of the whole system". One part of the problem of 240 volt controls is that if a short to ground develops after a gas valve opens then the valve may be held open if only one leg of the power is switched off. The valve could be held open indefinitely. There are other possible problems with your system, this is just 1 of them. I would also recommend that all the wiring be checked by a master electrician with extensive control training/service to make sure that everything is wired correctly, especially if the controls have been replaced or serviced recently. Trying to service your system from Pittsburgh, Pa. USA. is impossible but I can only render some possibilities.


AC Condensate Line Not Draining My question is about AC Condensate Line Not Draining.

Please help.  We have had two separate service technicians and after 8 service trips, water is still leaking at our condo.

I have First Co Air Handler (30HX5-240).  It started leaking water so we had it serviced.

The AC technician blew nitrogen to the drain line, I guess assuming a clogged drain line.It didn't work.  He did it again and this time, he changed the drain pipe to a clear plastic tubing so he can see water draining.  Still didnt work.  We had him look at the drain pan and it was rusted.  He put a new drip pan in and it still leaked.  At the 4th service call, he blew nitrogen again, had his son who is also an AC technician, pump the drain forward and backward.  We saw some rust debri come out but now water is clear.  We also had plumber come to snake it.  He put in a T to vent it out. Not visible in picture.  Inside ceiling.

We called another big AC company.  They said the drip pan wasn't wasnt installed properly.  He corrected it and vacuumed the drain and tested it to make sure it was draining.  Still leaked.  On his return visit, he said it was spitting water and recommended a new unit and said there wasn't anything he could do.

We weren't convinced a new unit was required as the AC is working.  Had first service technician come back out and readjusted drain and had drip pan replaced again as it looked like it had a leak.  Well, that didn't do the magic trick.  We changed the air filter again and tested it.  We can see water draining from our test when we pour about 6 bottles in but water was always pooling at the plastic tubing.   After unit runs for about 6-8 hours, it then leaks again.  I began researching and reading quite a bit and came to the conclusion that we needed to do two things.  Put a condensate running trap and cap off the T air vent.  I bought the running trap at Home Depot and gave it to AC guy to install.  I was confident that this will work.  Well, it's still leaking.

Our next step is to open up the drain on the opposite site of the drip pan and connect to the T that we had left on the drain as shown in the picture.  The air vent is not visible and a few inches to the left of the the T.  I think the unit is drawing air back and it's not able to drain out when unit is running.  When unit is off, it drains fine as we can see it from the end of the drain under the vanity.

I also am going to ask the technician to check on refrigerant.

Your expert suggestions is much appreciated.  This is keeping me up at night.  :-)

Your condensate line may not have the proper pitch to allow the water to drain.
Another option is a condensate pump. These are little water pumps that pump the condensation water from the drip pan out through the tube. This can be wired to run while the A/C unit runs, or when water is detected.

Out of curiosity, where does your drain line end? At some point I think it is up to high and not allowing the water to fully drain or sagging once it fills with water, then stops the drain from draining.


How to make drawers close softly? I've bought a MALM drawer system that comes without any soft close-mechanism on the drawers. Is it possible to make or buy external silencers that i can attach to the drawers so they don't make so much noise when closing them?

And example on dampening for kitchen doors: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80126213/

You can either replace the slides with a soft closing model, or you could possibly shoe horn in a damper piston like this one made by Blum.

They work in the same way as the ones in your link (those are made to attach to a hinge) but it can be recessed into a block or, in theory, drilled into a drawer side. The process would be to attach the piston in whatever fashion works with the pin pointed to the back of the cabinet. When you close the drawer the weight and momentum compresses the piston before it contacts the end of the slides travel, effectively softening the landing. You may have to apply a block on the back of the cabinet to give the piston a place to contact at the correct depth relative to the position of the drawer when it's fully closed.


Wall furnace material - could it be asbestos? Found it on a shelf in my wall furnace, hence the burnt look... looking for input on its origin.

Thanks

It could be.

A few things you've left out where the year of the build of your home and the area you are in. These could help narrow down if this was used in your area at the time of construction.

You have two options:

Pickup a test kit from your local hardware store - or bring a sample to be tested by a lab.
Call a qualified professional for an opinion: Knowledgeable contractors can identify this immediately or you can contact the local authority in your area who deals with asbestos.

Asbestos used in insulation wraps are typically OK unless they are disturbed. Since there is a doubt, stop everything you are doing until you've confirmed what it is.


GFCI Outlets Wired Inline 2011 NEC (1) I live in an older home with the kitchen "updated" in the 1990's. None of the countertop outlets are GFCI protected. Can they be properly wired with a GFCI outlet at the beginning of the wiring and then wiring several of the following outlets with ordinary outlets?

(2) In the garage which was wired God knows when, there are no GFCI outlets. I have the same question regarding protecting outlets with a GFCI outlet at the beginning and then feeding the remaining outlets from the GFCI load terminals. This would include outlets near the washing maching, the dryer and the water heater which seem to be fed from an outlet behind a freezer (mentioned in question 3). On a separate circuit are outlets at a work table and I need to know if each of these have to be GFCI protected.

(3) In the garage there is a virtually unmovable freezer. If a GFCI outlet were required it would be night onto impossible to reset the outlet if it trips. Is this appliance required to be GFCI protected?

(4) In a garden is each outlet required to be GFCI even if they are "downstream" from a GFCI outlet? And how many outlets "downstream" of a GFCI outlet are permitted as being protected, if this is allowed?

I do know that the tamper resistant GFCI outlets are now required despite that the big box store still sell GFCIs which are not tamper resistant.

Would appreciate knowledgeable answers.

Answers in order:

1) If the kitchen was done properly in the 90's you definitely should have GFI protection, at least near the sink(s). If not then yes, you cetainly can install a GFI at the head  of the circuit and protect downstream standard receptacles.
Keep in mind, only receptacles serving countertop areas require GFI protection.

2) IF the house is that old GFI protection was likely not required at the time of original installation. You can if you like add it at any time, and it's the same situation as the kitchen. Downstream protection is fine.

3) See answer #2. I doubt there is a need for an actual GFI device behind the freezer.

4) Again, same goes. You can just use one GFI at the beginning. As for how many, there is no limit, but each downstream device does have a tiny bit of current leakage, so limiting them to 5-6 is a good idea.

Remember, to gain downstream protection, the incoming line must be on the LINE terminals, and the line to be protected must be on the LOAD terminals.


Rating for #2 Aluminum XLPE underground utility feed The utility feed to my duplex with two 100A meters on it, is an underground cable in conduit. The main panel is 200A, but the utility feed is only 2 AWG Aluminum. The cable marking is: ALCAN 2 AWG ALUM  600 VOLT   XLPE 1978. I think XLPE is Cross Linked Polyethylene, which I think has a higher temperature rating.

This document shows that a single conductor is good for 180A for direct burial. Is it appropriate to use that value in a conduit?

When I looked at the 90C rating for #2 Aluminum, I see 100A. Can someone explain why the other document shows it as 180A?

I'm assuming 180A is fine for two 100A breakers in a duplex, assuming some level of diversity. The cable going into the panel is a 2/0 Copper, but it is only 4 ft or so from the box you see into the panel

Being in conduit vs direct burial makes no significant difference on ampacity.

Since it is on the utility side of the meter, and the wire was provided by the power company,  this is a big bag of Not Your  Problem.

The power company has two smart  meters
that record your peak energy usage. They will know when your usage is of concern, and will send out a truck with marshmallows and graham crackers.

Now what is the deal with the three loose conductors stapled to the side of your house? Please, tell me they are 2 AWG XLPE telephone lines, and the one with the white stripe is cable TV...


Water line under the sink to fridge ice make isn't working. No water will come through the line. How can I clean it out? This is the water line under the sink. Water is coming out of valve,but not the line.

Are you sure this is the part not allowing the water to flow? I would start by disconnecting the line everywhere there is a connection, turn the valve on and see where the restriction might be. It could be the ice maker not allowing water to come in. The valve on the ice maker could be bad. If you find a hose restricted, replace it rather than trying to clear it out.


Chip on engineered wood floor I got engineered wood installed last week in my house.  I noticed there is about a 3mm circular chip.  Is there anything I can do to prevent it from further chipping ?  Its glued down on concrete.  The wear on the weed is 2mm, so I am not sure if I am seeing the ply or the inner wear.  Its not deep.

It's not likely to delaminate further, but you could color it with stain or marker and lay in some clear epoxy or urethane varnish to seal it up. You could press in some grain texture when the material is semi-hard.


need help in identifying bathroom sink faucet set This set is most likely 30 years old. (We also have the matching tub set.) I'd like to replace all of the faucet innards or replace the entire set.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

[

I'll ante up with American Standard. Remove the top stem(s) under the handle(s), take it to the store & match up a replacement. Keep the old stem(s) until you're good & sure everything's proper.


wall mount speaker's input jack I bought a house built in 2000. I has wall built-in speakers, two in family room and 2 in game room. Both rooms have a jack panel, mounted in wall. They have rotating cups on them. I tried to put the 3.5 mm audio pin to it, but the pin is small. Any idea what kinda cable would work with them

Most likely, there are holes in the side of the shaft. Put the wires through the holes and tighten down the ring to hold it in place.


What are the best option for French sliding door blinds regular honeycomb blind

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We are thinking to place the blind bracket outside the French sliding doors. My other blinds are all honeycomb blinds.  I am wondering what are the best blind option we can have on French sliding doors to match other honeycomb blinds in the house.

Any suggestions?

kelsham PlyGem Freedom 800 Clad French Sliders are amazing!!!!  French Sliders aren't regular sliding glass doors... They're expensive but WELL worth it!!

Dave I too have honeycomb throughout and just replaced all 4 of my French patio doors with the Freedom 800-I've had a set for 14 years and no issues!!!  I'm looking at room darkening generic Vertiglide blinds.

Here's the link..
http://www.blindsgalore.com/m/product/253981/bali-diamondcell-verticell-shades-blackout-midnight-and-legacy?siz.height=48&siz.width=48&utm_medium=shoppingfeed&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKEAiAh560BRDu-aD93r-J_zoSJACrxZG2gn460CjxGR51HMgBhA2qoAFkpoFb-uHvxwUHmHKxFxoCpKTw_wcB


Can I replace my ungrounded / two prong outlets, or should I have a professional do this type of a thing? They're all two prong except a select few in the kitchen. Is this a project I could take on with NO electrical experience other than minor soldering, or is this something I should not attempt?

Question two (should I make a new "Question"?): How would I go about doing this?

I feel like I have seen this question asked before, but I can not find it. So I will go ahead and answer.

If you have never done electrical work before, I would not recommend this to be the project that you start on. In order to do this properly, you will need to run new wire to every outlet to add the ground line. This in itself can be a difficult task if you have never run cables through walls before. The next difficult part is connecting the ground properly. More then likely you will need to do substantial work in your breaker box and might even need to replace the whole box. In most places, you have to have an electrician come out to replace the box as it requires removing the meter while you are working.

So with all of that said, just hire someone to do it. Your home insurance will thank you for not doing it yourself.


Suspending many lightweight acoustic panels from a plaster ceiling I have a collection of fairly lightweight acoustic panels that I want to suspend from a plaster ceiling (see mockup images below). My question: What is the best way to attach them?
Here’s the shape of the problem:

10 large panels @ 1.75 kg / 3.84 lbs each, 21 in wide at the narrowest
18 small panels @ 0.62 kg / 1.37 lbs each, 10.5 in wide at the narrowest
Panels should be suspended ~2 in below the ceiling, so adhesives are not an option.
The precise arrangement and small size of the panels means I can’t make them all hit joists.
I expect I’ll want to suspend each panel at three separate points so I can level it. My thought is to use neodymium magnets at the end of long bolts/screws to allow fine position adjustments. That means that:

I’m drilling 3*(10+18) = 84 holes in the ceiling here.
Each individual hole carries a weight of no more than 0.6 kg / 1.3 lbs.

It’s an old house, so the ceiling is lath & plaster, not drywall. Things I’m wondering:

Given the low weight here, are toggle bolts really necessary? Or can I get away with screws of some kind, hoping that most of the screws at least hit some lath?
Alternatively, is there some kind of tiltable swivel mount I could use to level them, and thus need to position only one in the center of each hexagon instead of three at the edges?
Other suggestions to keep this project manageable?

A couple ideas...

Go with your magnet idea, using either the moly buttons or magnetic sheet bonded to the back.
Use simple silver screws in the ceiling. Almost any ferrous screw will work, and you don't need toggle bolts. Either you'll hit lath, the plaster itself will hold, or you'll add a slim plastic plug anchor for troublesome cases.
Insertion depth gives you leveling adjustment. I don't think swivel adjustment is needed due to the very shallow angles.

Otherwise, you could use leveling feet...

Commonly available furniture feet with ball sockets give you angle adjustment.
Depth of insertion gives you level adjustment.
You'd need to use plastic inserts to accommodate the machine threads for some holes. Those in wood probably wouldn't need anchors.
Therefore, you'll want the smallest diameter shafts you can find.
I'm not sure how you'd attach the panels to these. Maybe magnets. Maybe double-stick foam tape.

However...
I really think that some small foam blocks and panel adhesive are what I'd do...

Cut 1" or 1-1/2" thick sheets into hexagons somewhat smaller than your panels. I think 2" is too much, personally--I'd want them a bit closer to the ceiling and I'd want the mounting hardware totally hidden.
Bond them with panel adhesive, which has quick grab. Use the press-remove-press technique for instant hold.
While things are soft, make leveling adjustments. You should be able to stretch the adhesive for some time after mounting.


Remove drilled out venturi tube from base in thermador gas range? When this stove was serviced a few years ago, the tech had to drill out one or two venturi tubes.

I just had to drill out 2 of 4 in order to remove the top of the stove. They were completely siezed up.

So... the top of the stove is off... but how do I get the remains of these venturi tubes out of the threaded base?

OK, I did it.

Here is how:

Remove the jet holder from the stove, put it in a vise (gently)

Insert spiral bolt extractor. Tap it in with two hammer taps.

Attach socket to end of bolt extractor. Use electric impact wrench, short bursts, and break it free.

Was able to remove three of four no problem. The fourth was frozen completely, and I will replace the whole thing.


Service conductors between meter box and 100 panel. Can I still use #2 Aluminum? Manitoba Can I still use #2 Alum between meter box and 100 amp panel? Meter box is on the side of the house and panel is at the back.

The 23rd edition of the Canadian Electrical Code allows 2AWG aluminum service conductors for a 100A service if the conductor insulation is rated to 90˚C and the conductors terminate on equipment with maximum conductor termination temp of 75˚C (which includes all modern circuit breakers).

These service conductors must also be carried in a minimum 1.25" conduit. If it's PVC conduit, the conduit must carry an SR (Sunlight Resistant) designation stamped on the outside.


Is this an acceptable way to route wires around trusses? I am building a detached garage with a double 2x4 top plate and engineered trusses, 24" OC. At some future date I will insulate and drywall the walls and ceiling, but for now I want to get it wired up in a way that will meet code (Wisconsin Electrical Code, which generally follows NEC 2017) prior to drywall.
I've seen suggestions for running cable along the face of the top plate, but that wouldn't allow me to install drywall later on. Since these are engineered trusses drilling them isn't really an option. Instead I attempted this:

I stapled the cable securely on either side of the truss. Any issues with this approach? I spent quite a while searching the net for pictures or advice, but most answers seemed to address routing around trusses in attics.

It's OK, I've done it that way, but on a friends project, he didn't like it because at some future point, at some future remodel/change an electrician might have to drill thru the top plate for an additional cable, potentially hitting the existing cable. My friend is in the trades and on a remodel ended up killing a feed to the range.  Took forever to find it.
He wanted me to pull back the cable a few inches from the were the rafter and joist meet to allow for stapling room and fasten them there. You only have to staple every other joist.   Mostly personal preference. Just providing some info.  Glad you are using insulated staples, good choice.


How should I insulate my workshop I have a 20x14' workshop in my backyard.  When I had it build, I had the installer place rigid insulation form under the concrete slab but everything else was not insulated.  Since then, I've installed insulation batts in the walls and a vapour barrier and then drywall on top of that.  It is till cold inside since cold air from the outside can enter in through the ridge vent at the top or the 8 soffit vents that line the side.  This year my plan is to insulate the ceiling as shown in the middle picture below.  There will be an air gap between the roof and the insulation, then another vapour barrier and a radiant barrier on top of everything.

I'm hoping with some space heaters the inside will now remain warm when the outside is cold.  I am worried what will happen in the summer though.  I don't want the inside to turn into an oven so I'm trying to think what to do to prevent that from happening.  I could put an AC unit in one of the windows for the summer months to cool the inside ... but is there another way?  I don't want to punch any holes in the walls (through the insulation) because I'm worried birds or critters are going to try to climb into the workshop during the winter months.

I was wondering if I could put some fans or vents in the ceiling insulation to allow hot air to escape out through the soffit vents or the ridge vent.... would that work?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Solar load (which heats the building to 95 on a 68 degree day) is a real problem.  Insulation will make things better, not worse.

The #1 thing you can do is paint the roof white.  Yes, I know that's hard and weird, but it really does work.

Soffit and roof vents, obviously, make it a lot harder to heat a shed.  Maybe the architect was concerned with condensation inside your shed, and want to make sure moist warm air from the daytime is cycled out by nightfall.

If you're going to hang a ceiling and have a void between ceiling and roof, it helps get rid of solar heat if you move a lot of air through there.  That will carry away the heat that comes through the roof before it reaches the ceiling.  Of course this would be unhelpful if you are trying to heat below the ceiling.


drawer face connector name - ikea part number 126888 - blum drawer face I need to buy a couple of these connectors.  They come from ikea in the godmorgon sets with drawer fronts.  Here is the image.  Any idea of the name so I could search and possibly just buy a couple of these?  I think they are from blum originally as the slides are blum slides.

My custom cabinet guy bought a ninka recycle bin unit for my custom kitchen.  He couldn't figure out how to install it so I ended up putting it together.  The face of the ninka is a panel from the kitchen company it installs using this connector to the ninka hardware (which is blum).  The kitchen company didn't provide these connectors to me or they were lost.  Since the hardware looked the same as the ikea blum godmorgon and I had hacked an ikea godmorgon unit as a sink cabinet and I had an extra draw with a couple of these connectors I salvaged them from the drawer and they worked.  Now I have an ikea drawer that I may use in the future sometime but I don't have the connectors.  Since these seem to be blum connectors or maybe even something more generic to the cabinet world I thought someone might have a name for them such that I could just purchase some.

IKEA have a 'Contact Us' page where you can order spare parts.

For instance this is the page I land on in the UK, and there is a section at the bottom where you can enter a part number:


Is there a difference between Low-e Glass And Argon Gas? Is there a difference between Low-e Glass And Argon Gas?

My boss is trying to convince me that they are one in the same, despite my repeated attempts to differentiate the two for him. At this point, I need help to prove it to him that there is an extreme difference.

Low-E windows are designed with material inside the glass or layered on it at the time of manufacture.

Argon Gas windows are multiple-pane windows that are air-tight with the gap between the panes filled with argon at assembly.

It is possible to get windows that are both at once. A Google search for Argon Windows brings up several links explaining Low-E windows and how Argon and Low-E are not the same.


How to run Romex cable to Enphase Combiner box 3? In designing in the solar panels, I've decided to run the wire inside of the house.  So far, I am running 10/2 Romex from the attic all the way to the Enphase Combiner Box surface mounted on the outside.

What I can't figure out is how to connect the Romex into the combiner box, since local permit office is telling me that I can't run Romex in conduit.  And without a conduit, how can I go from inside of the house through exterior wall into the surface mount combiner box?

What you can do is run your Romex as planned to a junction box on the inside wall and run conduit from the junction box through the wall to your combiner box. Splice your 10/2 Romex to #10 AWG THHN single conductors with wire nuts and run the THHN in the conduit to your combiner box. That should keep everyone happy.


What's the advantage of PEX crimp/clamp over the expansion connection? It seems the ease and reliability and no water pressure loss of the expansion connections makes them far superior to the alternative.

So besides slightly cheaper materials cost and less expensive tool what is the advantage of using the crimp/clamp connection?

As I understand it, the expander only works on PEX-A tubing which is more expensive and not as durable/chemical resistant.  I have found that in many instances I had to make a connection in a tight space and needed the compact compression ring tool.  The expander has the advantage of working before the connection is made, so I suppose if you plan ahead you can avoid using the tool in a tight space, but the tool looks a bit more difficult to use in, say, a crawlspace where you'll be lugging around an extension cord everywhere you go.

Just my 2 cents.  I've never used an expander before.

Edit:
It also appears that contractors complain about the expander not working in cold conditions.


Bathroom bulb only giving off weak light I turned on my bathroom light this evening and was surprised to note that it only gave off a very feeble light, barely illuminating the room. On inspection, it looked like only the ends closest to the connection were giving off any light at all.

I presumed this was a bulb issue, so I changed it and was surprised to find that the new bulb behaved identically. So it seems this is an electrical fault.

The light fitting takes 4 pin fluorescent bulbs, like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-PL-Q-GR10Q-Compact-Lamp/dp/B000ONNOH4

The issue only affects the bathroom light, and no others in the house. I have not noticed any other electrical faults, nor am I aware of anything that might have caused a wire to break or become lose anywhere.

What might have caused this? Is it something I can fix, or do I need an electrician? Is it urgent, in the sense of it being a safety hazard?

Fluoresent ballasts do go bad. If it is a very old fixture it may have a starter:a starter is usually a small tubular module with 2 pins on 1 end - a twist, usually CCW, and it will come out. Starters used to be very common; if you find one it is probably bad. If no starter, the ballast has failed (not uncommon).

Changing a ballast is a simple procedure: turn the power off, open the fixture and record the part number on the existing ballast. Find one online or locally. Usually there is a line diagram of the connections. If you get a different brand, you may need up to 6 wire nuts: again with the power off, cut the black and white at the ballast and connect to the new ballast. Next is the lamp connections - many mfr's use the same color-coded wiring. If the wires on the old ballast match the new one, finish cutting the old ballast out and wire nut the wires together. If the colors are different, compare the line drawings on the 2 ballasts and transfer to the new ballast using the diagram on the old ballast. This is what electricians do.

I have changed thousands of ballasts over the years and I still need to look at the instructions. Ballasts are a DIY item in my professional opinion.


Why are low-flow toilets more likely to overflow? I used a low flow toilet in an apartment that had been vacant for some time, and a toilet that had not seen much use. The bath in this area was never used. My recollection was that I flushed the toilet, and stayed around the unit for another 30 mins. without hearing or noticing an overflow. After leaving to the gym for 2 hours, I came back to find the apartment totally flooded to the extent that it flooded( or seeped to 2 I had heard gurgling in the past upon flushing. units below me). Only yesterday in my lease did I see mention that low flow toilets can overflow.  Please provide me an explanation for this, and causes. Thank you.

I have seen something similar happen in an area with hard water.

Over a period of time limescale builds up around the water inlet into the toilet cistern.  This in turn leads to the water flow not shutting off completely as the ballcock rises.  The limescale keeps the valve fractionally open, enough for water to keep flowing slowly.

Usually this water should just go down the overflow and not cause a flood.

If this is your problem, it is easily cleared by breaking up the limescale in the cistern.


How should I secure stops against clear acrylic sheet in a half wall? I just built a half wall (sort of) with acrylic sheet in my basement to partition my server equipment from my woodworking area to keep my electronics more sawdust free. The top half of the wall is a piece of acrylic that sits in a groove in the top and right studs. I have some leftover pine board that I want to use to frame around the inside edges of the acrylic.

How would I go about securing the pine board to each other on either side of the acrylic? I want to do this so it takes the bow out of the acrylic. I was thinking a screw with a wingnut on the opposite side of the acrylic. Also, any other ideas for finishing this wall?

You would be better off anchoring each piece of trim to the wall or sill. The plexiglass will then be sandwiched between two rigid surfaces. Putting a bolt through the plexiglass won't provide any benefit over what the trim pieces already give.


Cabinet door opening on it's own, how do I adjust this type of hinge? One of the cabinet doors in our kitchen is swinging open on it's own.  You shut it and it slowly creeps back open.  I've seen the hinges that allow you to adjust x/y axis angles but these only have one screw on the frame side.

Any ideas?

No answer, but some ideas. Make sure the hinge is properly installed. It sounds like it was installed in the wrong orientation or the wrong type of hinge. Some hinges are design to be installed on lift up type cabinet doors. The spring action helps make the door feel less heavy and not slam shut. If you have other ones that work properly, check it against the others.  The picture you have shows only one screw which leads me to believe that it was designed for another type of door. Overtime, I can see the door coming out of alignment by pivoting on that single screw.

If you are certain it is properly installed, then find the spring mechanism and try to play with it using needle nose pliers or a screw driver. If no luck, then try to disable or remove the spring.


Should I worry about a siphon with my sump pump? I live in a typical suburban home. My sump pump discharges water up from the beneath the slab about 9 feet and moves outside through the rim joist. The pipe then turns into the ground and joins the downspout drain line out to the street.

Do I need to worry about water siphoning back into the basement after a pump cycle during a flood event where the street is filled with water, over the drain line exit?

The output pipe should contain a one-way valve not far from the pump.  Otherwise, your 9 foot column of water would drain back into the sump bucket when the pump shuts off.  This also prevents any siphoning when the pump isn't running.


Repair pressure washer around area where hose attaches to machine I have a pressure washer that I can no longer use because the area around where I attach my pressure washer hose is broken. I don't know much about pressure washers so I can't be any more helpful but I've attached some pictures of the area that is the issue. It is a Greenworks GPW 2000-1

What options do I have to fix something like this? Weld? Replace part? Epoxy?

Here is a link to the manual:

Manual

There is a parts diagram and list near the back.  It's somewhat difficult to tell from your photos vs. the diagram but it looks like the parts 20, 21, 22, 23 are involve here.

You will probably have to go to the dealer who sold you the unit and get them to order the parts.


Light Switch Replacement; 2 black wires, 2 attached white wires? I'm trying to replacement my bathroom's light switch with a combo switch and outlet. It looks like this:

However when I opened up my light box I had two black wires and two white wires. The two white wires are connected together while the two black are connected to the old switch. On the box of the switch/outlet, it says it's not to be used to replace a switch with only two wires present. Can I still use this outlet? Where do I connect what? Do I leave the two connected white wires alone?

The switch/outlet combo you have could physically work, but as pointed out by @Speedy Petey, it would not be code complaint since all outlets in bathrooms need to be GFCI. Consider replacing it with a GFCI/switch combo such as this.

The wiring you have should work.  One of the cables (which consists of one black and one white wire) is from the mains, and the other cable (black and white) goes to the existing light fixture. You need to determine which is which. The easiest way to do this is with a non-contact tester.

With the power on and the old switch turned off (first make sure no bare wires or contact points are touching anything metal), check to see which black wire causes the tester to beep. If they are already disconnected, just check each wire separately. The one that beeps is the constantly hot wire from the mains. The other black wire is a switched hot going to the fixture. Turn the power off at the circuit breaker and mark the constantly hot wire with a piece of tape. Disconnect the old switch.

Look at the new switch/outlet on the right side (the side with the black screws). If there is a metal connector showing between the two black screws, you only need to attach the hot wire to one of them. If there is no connector, you need to attach the hot to both of them. This can be done by adding two short pieces of black wire (called pigtails) to the hot wire and then connecting the other end of those new wires, separately to each screw.

Now connect the other black wire from the box (the switched hot to the fixture) to the brass screw on the left side of the switch.

If there is no green or bare wire coming from the existing cables, you cannot properly ground this device unless the box is metal and the cables are armored (covered in a spiral metal casing). If there is a green or bare wire, it should be attached to the ground screw. If the box and cables are metal, the metal attachment strap of the device provides a form of ground (but not the best).

If the cable is not armored and there are no ground wires, the outlet is protected by the GFCI circuit, but it is not grounded. It needs to be marked on the outside as No equipment ground.

 Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources


How can I protect a hardwood floor against dog claws? I just bought a house with new hardwood floors.  One of my dogs is a little wild and keeps sliding and scratching the floors up.  I've tried cutting her nails and she won't wear boots.  Does anybody have any ideas as to how to prevent this?  Is there such a thing as professional hardwood coatings?

Figured out a solid answer.  It's a big project, but apply a layer of varnish.  Requires sanding the entire floor, applying varnish, rinse and repeat one more time for best results.


The structural integrity of a backyard structure I need a shed, but I really don't want to put a standard-looking shed. I would like something that's pleasing to the eye and fits my property. In addition, I thought it would be cool to have a second level that's part lean-to, part patio.

So I came up with the simple idea captured in the following sketch: LINK

I have never designed or built a structure so I'm wondering what obvious things I may have missed, why this structure may fall down and why my township may say no to it. Also, how do I go from this sketch to a blueprint that a contractor could work from?

As with any structure you need to define the loads on it (wind, snow, furniture, people etc) and from there define the structure or framing capable of supporting those loads.

There may well be local codes or regulations that need to be respected as well.

Since this does look like a neat design, why not check out a local structural engineer or architect to see what it would cost for them to set it up properly. (often, tasks like this are given to the office "junior" to improve their experience - under the "eye" of the engineer / architect to make sure it is correct).

That way, any contractor will have fewer problems, and if something is wrong you have a clear path of responsibility to the contractor & architect / engineer.


Highly Curved Parabolic Makeup Mirror? I saw a highly curved parabolic mirror that I had never seen before in a hotel I visited recently.

It was on an arm in the bathroom and unfortunately I didn't think to take a picture at the time.

It looked very similar to this and gave very high magnification:

The curve of the mirror was very prominent, so much so that it almost looked like the capital "U" character here, but not quite parallel of course.

What are these class of mirrors called? I would imagine that they have a different name because I can't find them anywhere.

If your objective is not limited to locating a vanity mirror of this sort (I failed to do so), you may discover that your objective can be gained by searching for parabolic trough reflector or parabolic trough mirror. The returns I found from those terms cover mostly solar collectors designed to focus light on thermally related energy systems. Some of the links also point to engineering documents regarding design and construction.

An advantage of such a design in thermal energy collection is that it can be aligned in one direction and rotated on the long axis to provide near-continuous exposure to the sun.


What is the proper way to prevent water infiltration between exterior stairs and wall My house has a full flight of poured concrete stairs (covered with decorative stone) that runs parallel to (and butts up against) an exterior wall.

The interior wall had water stains at the basebord, some distortion in the laminate floor near the  baseboard and the distinct odor of damp, decaying wood.

I pulled the baseboard off and cut away the drywall 12 inches up for the entire length of the wall.  The sill plate is damp and one stud at the bottom of the stairway shows signs of rot or termite damage.  The insulation was damp at the ends but not at the 12 inch mark.

Currently, there is nothing between the poured concrete for the stairway and the studs.  No plywood sheathing, no plastic, nothing.  It looks like at some point in the past there was something there.  Two of the studs have scraps of plastic sheet between them and the sill plate.  I cannot tell if the plastic sheet was on the interior or exterior side of the studs.  On the exterior side of the studs near the top end of the stairs there is plywood sheathing about 12 inches wide, but broken off in a ragged edge.  It is waterlogged.

My best guess is that there was/is a leak between the stairs and wall near the upper end of the stairs.  The water is flowing down the concrete and then running along the sill plate toward the corner of the wall.  At some point in the past the interior wall was removed and the plastic sheeting and plywood sheathing were ripped out and then the interior wall was restored.  Obviously, this is not the right solution.

My question is two-fold:

If this were new construction, how would one construct a stairway  parallel to an exterior wall.
How can the wall as currently constructed be repaired such that water infiltration cannot occur in the future.

When concrete is poured so that it will be in contact with a wood part of the building allowances should be employed so that moisture is  prevented from becoming trapped and is able to escape quickly. The wood wall that abuts to the concrete stairs should have been isolated with a vapor barrier. The most commonly and easiest to use would be 30 lb. roofing felt tacked along the stair/wall face. Metal flashing and self-sticking flashing would also prevent water from contacting the wall. An isolation or expansion joint would have helped any water that did find a way in to eventually evaporate. Repairing  the concrete  from contacting the studs is difficult. If there was any space between the surfaces a barrier could be retro-fitted. I'm not sure how feasible it would be to start cutting back the edge of the steps to create a space for repairing the wall? If you could that would enable the installation of treated lumber and water shields (flashing and felt). If not than all that can be done is to silicone caulk the wall/concrete joint, but water will still get in through the concrete by condensing.


How can I remove this thermostatic mixing shower faceplate? This shower has a temperature selection knob, which operates separately from the water pressure/on-off knob.  The selection is unresponsive, water temperature does not rise or fall when the knob is twisted.

I thought I'd start by taking the faceplate off and learning more, possibly replacing a cartridge.  But pulling off the faceplate is blocked by the black ridged ring on the knob:

I see no indication of the manufacturer or model of this shower.  Any advice for how to proceed?  This is what it looks like behind the knob, peeking behind the faceplate when it's slid out as far as I can:

It seems like I might be able to address the problem there.  But with the faceplate on, I can't access those parts.  Other detail in case relevant: this temperature selector knob controls three shower heads, two of which share one on-off knob and the third on a separate on-off.

I believe that chrome cap on the front of the knob needs to be removed. The valve I have is similar. Look all around the temp control knob for an inset set screw that takes a small allen wrench to remove. The other possible option is the chrome cap needs to be carefully pried off. In either case I think you'll find the key to removal of the knob is on the knob somewhere not behind the escutcheon.


What is the material leaking out of my plumbing drain stack? This has been happening since about a month after we moved and we noticed a fluid leaking out of this pipe. It seems to be a sewage pipe. Whenever we flush, we can hear the water running down this pipe that there's this weird liquid the keeps leaking out from around the pipe itself. Does anybody know what this is?

Yes, it's a drain/sewage pipe. What comes out of a sewage pipe??? Sewage!
Get some rubber gloves and a dust respirator and clean that pipe and plug, a wire brush would be a good start. Then remove the plug and clean the threads on both surfaces. Apply some pipe dope to the threads and screw the plug back on to the pipe. Tighten as necessary to stop the leak.
That plug looks like it might be PVC so if the threads are destroyed, you might have to replace it.


What are these very heavy blocks found on my family's property? I need help identifying these blocks found on my family's property, which was a 17th century farm house in Virginia. The blocks are 8.75" long, 4.5" wide, and 5" high and weigh 58 lbs.

They are iron ( unlikely steel at that age ) identified by the density match to iron. The reddish color that looks like granite is rust on a pitted surface. Pig iron ( high carbon and silicon ) or wrought iron ( more or less pure iron ). An unusual shape for either as far as I know. My guess is that they are raw material intended to be made into something. A real historian would be necessary for a comprehensive identification. I have never seen a shape like that except a modern ( after 1975 ) continuous caster could cast 5 X 4.5 inch square strand.


Why cement under upstairs bathroom floor? I went to tile upstairs bathroom floor and when we pulled up old linoleum and replace subfloor that was rotted we discovered 1 1/2" of concrete poured on top of old subfloor. Why would somebody do this?

It was (and still is) common to float cement on top of the floor for installation of ceramic tile. It provides a level and firm substrate to which tile mortar (thin-set) will adhere. 1 1/2" seems a bit thick though, maybe there were irregularities with the floor which had to be compensated for. I try not to float so thick unless I have to, and now I use cementitious tile backer board when appropriate. Or sometimes I mortar the tile directly to a smooth firm plywood subfloor in new construction applications.


Can I connect my water heater pan drain to the building waste drain? (CPC) This question is relative to the California Plumbing Code (CPC), specifically the Sacramento area.

I'm doing some remodeling of a bathroom where the water heater pan drain line comes across the ceiling a bit lower than I can allow because I'm replacing a drop ceiling with hard and I'd like to get it up higher than where the pipe exits the exterior wall.

The drain is running parallel to the wet wall of the bathroom and therefore I have access to the building sewage drain system. Is it okay, per the above codes, to connect the water heater drain pan to the building waste system?

I've found an inspection checklist which says...

  Drain-Pan shall be required when a water heater and/or tank is
  installed in a location where it could cause damage; in case of
  failure/leak to floor, sub-floor, drywall. Drain pan shall be
  installed with a minimum ¾” drain outlet and discharge that drains to
  the exterior of the building or an approved location. (2013 CPC Section 508.4)

...so being that the heater itself is in the attic space I have to follow this rule. But when it says (emphasis mine)...

  "that drains to the exterior of the building or an approved location."

...I'm not able to find where in the code it defines approved locations. Can anyone shed some light on this issue please?

An Approved location that I'm aware of is like a Floor Drain. Though Ariel is Correct, you would need an Air Gap. So the pipe would have a 1" min Gap to the Drain so that any back flow of water could not touch the exit pipe.   The Main issue here is keeping the sewer gases in the system and not outside. This is what the p-Trap is for.  Its a water barrier to prevent sewer gases from escaping the system. The Water Heater Drain pan does not typically have water and any p-Trap installed in that line would not have any water in it to fill the p-Trap.

My HVAC system is in the Attic and it sits in a large drain pan so if the AC leaks water will drain out. They plumbed the 3/4" PVC drain to a Soffit vent over a window. The purpose for the over the window was it would be obvious to someone that there was a leak.

Hope that helps.


Do two-stage compressors offer both two-stage heating *and* cooling? I received a quote for a two-stage heat pump (model HCH636GKA). I have the following questions:

Does a "two-stage heat pump" imply a two-stage compressor?
Does a two-stage compressor guarantee two-stage heating and cooling? Or is it possible to end up with two-stage heating and one-stage cooling?

I can't find enough information about this particular model aside from the aforementioned spec-sheet which I linked to.

A heat pump is an air conditioner that has valves that switch the flow of the Freon so in the winter the condensing could is the inside making heat inside and cool outside (trying to make a simple explanation).
So if the compressor is 2 stage it can run at 2 different levels, depending on brand the compressor doesn’t know if it is heating or cooling the home, except for the defrost cycle. So if it is 2 stage it should be able to do it in heating and cooling, how effective it will be depends on the air handler and if it is multi speed.


Is tape applied to drywall right after mud is applied or after it has dried? I patched some foot square holes in the wall and would like to know when paper tape is applied:

right after mud is applied
after it has dried and is sanded
with drywall patching.

Paper tape you apply mud first then bed the paper tape with mud still wet.

Apply a thin layer of mud slightly wider than width of tape
Lay tape over seam
Scrape the paper tape with a taping knife to bed the tape. A thin layer of mud will cover the tape in the process.
Feather the edges of the mud with a wide knife (10" - 12")
wait until dry and scrape down any ridges or unevenness with the taping knife
Apply a wider layer of mud over top and smooth it out and feather the edges.
Preferably repeat steps 5 and 6.

Fiberglass tape you apply before any mud.

Edit: One more tip....

For small patches like that I usually only worry about feathering the outside edges and will feather it out that edge to the width of my largest knife (12" I think.) When I'm done with that edge and everything is dry I'll come back and fill in the entire inside area over the patch with mud and level it out to the height of the mud over the tape. It makes the repair less noticeable. Instead of having a large outline of a rectangle of raised mud you have a square that blends in better.


Is my basement wall load bearing? I have a 2 story house. The wall in question is in the middle of the basement. There is an old field stone wall that runs parallel to the ceiling joist (3x8). Directly above the stone is a flat board (7 1/2x2) followed by the joist, then floorboard. The second floor wall is directly above the basement joist. The 1st floor wall is offset 4" and not directly above the beam. Attic is a crawl space with no walls.

My pictures won't upload. My question is can I knock the stone wall out? If it is load bearing, how can I support it while I remove the wall since it runs parallel? I will try to get photos uploaded

Unless you are happy betting your house (which you will be) the correct answer is to pay a local licensed professional engineer to inspect and be sure. The cost is a small fraction of "Whoops, I broke my house because some folks on the internet said..."

They can also tell you what needs to be done if it is load-bearing and you still want to remove it. You may or may not find that affordable.


Farm Sink Drain Installation I recently had a farm sink installed in my kitchen. I noticed that the drain seems to sit slightly above the curve of the drain hole. A little bit of water also pools around the drain when the sink is used. Is this normal or does the drain need to be reinstalled to sit lower? I asked Kohler support and they said it looks like it was installed correctly, and they said it could appear slightly raised due to the plumbers puddy underneath. Most sinks I’ve seen, the drain sits below the curve of the drain hole though.

That does not appear to be correctly installed, it should lie flush with or below the sink surface.

These strainer assemblies commonly come with 2 ring-shaped washers; one rubber and one hard plastic or fiber. Both should be placed on the underside of the sink between the strainer mounting hardware and bottom sink surface. Neither are for "sealing" purposes. The rubber one is a cushion and the plastic/fiber one is a friction ring.

Make sure that there is no gasket of any sort between the upper strainer lip and the sink (it sure looks like there is...). The only thing between the strainer lip and the sink should be plumber's putty, and any excess putty squeezes out when the strainer is tightened (until flush with or below the sink surface) to the sink.

The only other possibilities are that the strainer has not been tightened completely down, or the sink (or strainer) is defective.


How to block out light though a sliding glass door I have glass sliding doors between my bedroom and living area.  The light from the loungeroom and the flicker of the tv comes through the glass doors and makes it hard to sleep.  I am wanting to find out how I can block out the light from coming through to the bedroom.

I would just treat it like a sliding glass door to the outside and hang the blinds of choice or some sort of black out curtain as mentioned above. A more long term solution would be to change from a slider to french doors that have the blinds or louvers built into the window portion of the door.


How can I get a neutral wire for this switch? This switch is in my garage and controls lights at the end of my driveway. I want to replace it with a smart switch that requires a neutral wire. I've learned that I can't steal a neutral wire from one of the romexes in the back unless I'm sure it's on the same circuit. How can I safely solve my problem in the least expensive way? If I need special tools or techniques, please spell them out for me.

Somebody really made a hash of things here

Whoever put all this in really made a mess of things.  That low-voltage box they used for the switch was utterly inappropriate for the task; furthermore, they ran wires through the hole in the lower box to wire up the upper switch without a conduit to protect them, drilling a hole in the lower box in the process I am sure.  Also, they managed to pigtail the GFCI's earth grounding wire to the incoming hot(!), which explains why its mounting screws were electrified.  Finally, the presence of the GFCI means that while everything is on one circuit, you need to make sure that the smart-switch hot and neutral wind up on the same side (line vs. load) of the GFCI, lest you inadvertently turn your smart-switch into a remote-controlled GFCI tester!

I would replace this all with a single two-gang box, mounted at the current GFCI's location, with the GFCI and switch sharing it.  The GFCI LINE HOT goes to the junction of the black wires from the upper left and middle right cables in your diagram, while the GFCI LINE WHITE goes to the junction of the white wires from both those cables.  Then, GFCI LOAD HOT goes to the black wire from the lower left cable in your diagram, while GFCI LOAD WHITE goes to the junction of the white wires from both the lower left and upper right cables in the diagram, and the GFCI's green ground pigtail gets connected to the junction of the bare wires. You'll want to get new wirenuts as well, since at least one of the junctions in the GFCI box looks to have been made in a completely improper fashion.

Now that that's straightened out, we can add the smart-switch.  The smart-switch line wire gets nutted into the GFCI LOAD HOT junction (putting the outdoor lights on the GFCI's load side as they were previously), while the smart-switch load wire gets nutted to the remaining black wire, coming from the upper right cable in your diagram.  The smart-switch neutral, then, gets nutted to the GFCI LOAD WHITE since your lights are on the load side of the GFCI, and last but not least, ground on the smart-switch gets tied into the existing bundle of (bare and green) grounds.

Once all that's done, patch the drywall as needed, button the new box up with an appropriate two-gang faceplate, turn the breaker back on, and enjoy your new smart-switch!


What good storage rack or furniture are there? What considerations should I have to build one? I'm thinking of buying a new furniture for my consoles. I've got a NES, Super Nes, Nintendo 64, Sega Genesis, and probably a Wii in the future. I'm thinking of maybe having a carpenter make a custom furniture for my "entertainment center": consoles and TV.

The furniture should have space for a 24' or 32' TV, the consoles (in a comfortable manner so that I can play any of them without having them archived) and cartridge storage. Do you know of any such furnitures available?

What good storage racks do you know? What considerations should I have to build such a furniture?

Turn a 2x4 Ikea Expedit bookcase on its side. Add more units if you need more storage. It's deep enough to easily hold up to a 60" or so TV on top.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10103088

I'd say go for the ones with the varying sized cubby holes, but I guess they're not on the website anymore.

You can also get handy little boxes that fit into the holes, so that your actual games are tucked away.


How Do I Level Joists for a Subfloor? I'm renovating a 4x5 ft. bathroom and I'm having problems leveling the sistered joists with the existing floor (the doorway). I've clamped the new sister joists to the old ones in order to see how it would fit. When I lay subflooring on the bathroom's joists, it is 1/4 in. higher than the existing subfloor in the doorway. How do I level it, so that it meets the existing plywood at the doorway? Is being a 1/4 in. out a lot?

Please see the pic below:  I'm level east to west but not north to south. (And north to south is the critical direction as I need to tie into the existing flooring.) The joists are 2x4s on a slab. The house is 50 yrs old.

A quarter inch difference over a span of five feet? meh. Fudge it.

It doesn't have to be level, it has to be flat.


What are some ways to appropriately hang things on a wall? I just moved into a new house and am at the point where I need to start hanging stuff on the walls.  Most of the stuff I want to hang is around the size of a picture frame, large mirror, or diploma frame.

What are some useful tools and tips to help make sure I hang these items appropriately?

This is my first house, so I really don't know what I am doing and would like to avoid putting unnecessary holes in the wall or having my pictures fall down while I'm asleep.

I am not opposed to using nails, but am open to other options as well.  Also, I am willing to invest in various gadgets, etc... that will help me do this job better.

Basically you need to look at two things:

What you are hanging (how heavy, will it sway, is it a vertical load or does it have a horizontal component)
What are you hanging it on (wallboard, plaster, old crappy plaster, stud wall, concrete wall, brick, stone, solid wood...)

Then you pick the right fastener at the intersection of these two.

Assuming you have a newer house, and are mostly hanging pictures, the old "nail into wallboard" will work okay. Just tilt it downward so the picture wire slides toward the wall, not toward the nailhead.

You can also use things like the 3M "command" strips, which work great if you follow the instructions and don't exceed the load. Don't be stingy with them.

Hanging heavier things like mirrors or glass picture frames, use the appropriate wall anchor for the wall, and/or nail or screw into the studs. With the right wall anchors, or rails or other structure attached to the studs, you can put an enormous load on the wall (tons) without problems.

If you have an old house like mine, don't even bother trying wall anchors into ancient crumbly plaster...find the studs. Hard-won lesson. ;)

Using a stud finder can be a bit of an art, so practice on a wall you don't care about. (Mark the edges of the stud, then drive a very fine nail into the wall board and see if you were right. Then, pull the nail and spackle the hole.) Also note that they read differently depending on what kind of wall it is.


Do you need a special type of screw to mount a NEMA 3R box? I need to mount a NEMA 3R Meter base and panel on a temp pole. There are screw knockouts on the back of the panels, but is there something that needs to be done to stop water from coming in the screw holes once they are opened?

I was considering using decking screws since they are water resistant and have decent shear strength. Is that OK? Do I need rubber washer or caulk or something on the screws/holes to keep the water out?

This will be inspected. NEC 2014.

Generally the reliable way to mount a panel like this on a pole is to mount a piece of exterior plywood to the pole - then mount the meter base to the plywood.

One who is exceptionally clever can add sides, front door and a little "roof" to keep the panel out of the weather.


Can I replace 1 switch of a 3-switch box with a Motion Detector switch Our bathrooms have a 3-switch box: 1-sink lights, 1-shower light, 1-fan. My son doesn't shut off the light, so it is on all night (or all day).

Can I replace one of the light switches with a motion detector switch?

thanks,
len

A three way switch is a single pole double throw switch and will not work with a single pole single throw switch like a motion sensor switch. A three way switch has two switch legs and one common lead. You could wire the motion sensor in series with one of the commons of either switch and the light would stay off when no motion was sensed. Once motion was sensed the three way switched would work normally.


Lawn irrigation system with shallow well supplied water is slow to start spraying at sprinklers My property has a lawn irrigation system that is supplied by a shallow well. It has worked satisfactorily for the last 4 years that I've owned the property. Recently the pump lost prime and I had no spray from any zone. I replaced the check valve in the supply line - it was allowing water to drain back and the pump was losing prime.
After replacement of the check valve the pump primed and all 5 zones worked well upon testing until the next scheduled cycle. When the system starts the sprinkles will pop up and spray then sink back down and it will take between 2 to 5 minutes for the first zone to start spraying fully and then the system runs correctly through the cycle. I can turn the system off for several hours or longer and repeat this scenario starting on any of the 5 zones.
I've hooked up a line from city water to the pump priming hole and everything works properly, water flows from the sprinklers quickly.
I did repair a leak at the gasket at the end case of the pump. I can find no leaks on the supply side for the area I can see. I have started to dig up the supply side line with the intent of checking for leaks and replacing the foot valve but I've found the line splits at a tee and it appears there are at least 4 pipes that are teed into the ground to supply water to the one pump that is in the system. The vertically teed pipes are around 6' to 8' apart for the ones I can see. I haven't dug up the whole supply side lines at this time. I can only assume that all vertical drops have a foot valve on them but that is just an assumption at this point.
With all this said my thought to solving the problem was water was draining back at a point before the check valve. Does this seem like a reasonable conclusion?
What else should I be looking for that may cause this problem?
What is the best way to find a leak, if there is one, on the supply line. I dread having to dig up all the lines.
Any input will be appreciated. Thank you.

The type of system you have makes a difference. In my area jet pumps are quite common and they do deprime from time to time when the foot gets stuck open. They also can have issues with the jet assembly or the pump. How do you know if you have a jet? There will be 2 pipes going down the well with the motor at ground level or in a pump house.
A submersible pump usually doesn't deprime because the pump is below the water level but many times they do have a check valve up top.
A self priming shallow well pump is another type but these sometime do need water in the pump if the water level is low and they usually do have a foot valve. As these pumps age and do not produce enough vacuum or if the water level falls below its lift value they quit working.
I would be pulling the lines down the well shaft as jets are usually 50’ or less in my area and single pipe shallow well are around 20’ so both are usually easy to pull up and check the foot & or jet. If those are good the pump could be worn out.


Do I have to remove the old window jambs when installing new nail flange window? I am in the process of replacing an old single hung window with a new nail flange dual pane window. I have removed the old window but I do not know if I need to remove the 1 inch thick wood jamb frame. If I do, the new window will not have any material for the nail flange to nail in to. I am wondering if I need to remove them and expose the bare 2x4 framing studs or if I can just nail them into the existing 1inch thick jambs of the old window.

Do I have to remove the old window jambs when installing new nail flange window?

The answer is yes; if you use that nail-on window the way it was designed to be used it nails to the underlying wall studs. If you use a "nail-on" window like you describe, face-nailing it to the old window jambs, it will look like crap and will probably leak.

If you do not intend to purchase a window designed for your application (a block frame or "replacement style" window), an option might be for you to cut off the nail flanges so you end up with a window that has what is essentially a box/block frame. Then drill holes through the frame and screw it to the existing jambs, caulking all the way around and finishing it off with aesthetically pleasing trim of some sort. I have done this with success.

The picture above shows frame types, from left to right:

nail-on frame for new construction, usually purchased in standard sizes.
block frame for various replacement applications, and very suitable for replacing old windows when the jambs and sill are left in place. Usually ordered to specific size needed.
"replacement style" window, also used for various replacement applications and includes exterior trim flange to hide old jambs. Usually ordered to specific size needed.


"Recipe" for home-made SmoothOver? Polycell sell a SmoothOver product that is a "quick and easy way to transform cracked and damaged walls to a perfectly smooth surface that's ready to paint. Fills imperfections such as cracks, gouges and small holes." It's basically a way to skim a wall if you're not great at plastering.

Now, I've used it in the past with great results, but it does take a bit of work: you've got to keep working it to keep the paste in a creamy consistency, and while it goes on easy you still have a lot of sanding to do at the end to get the finish you're after. Not a big problem, but there is a massive problem: cost. The tubs are massively expensive and only do a relatively small area.

I've just moved house and need to skim a number of rooms, and the cost of either getting a professional to do it, or doing it myself with SmoothOver, are both prohibitive.

So, my question is: Has anyone tried to replicate this product using standard building materials? How well did you do? Do you have a recipe that works?

Pre mixed joint compound, ( UK vendor) either a low dust mix or a topping compound, is a LOT cheaper than a tube spackle.  One 'recipe' is to add a bit of water to make it creamy, like your Polycell product.

It still requires sanding.  Invest in a few knives (6, 8 and 12" wide blades), a pole sander and some sanding sponges. A hawk and a bucket scoop are optional, but very handy.


What size water meter do I need to connect to county water? I have been on a deep well for over 30 years but now need to hook up to the county water line.
My house is 4,400 sq. feet.
Should I use a 5/8 inch or 1 inch meter?

So far as I can tell 5/8 is a common meter size for residential water connections in the US. It'll often be connected to a 3/4 inch pipe. It's normal for the meter size to be smaller than the pipe size.
Some utility providers charge a different base rate according to the size/capacity of the meter (or the pressure delivered, in the case of natural gas). If your water utility imposes a higher recurring monthly charge for the larger meter then it would make sense to take the smaller meter -- unless for some reason you'll require unusually high GPM flow (irrigating a very large yard with the culinary water, for example).
The utility should be able to advise how many GPM can be provided/expected with each of the meters; you should be able to produce at least a rough estimate of your GPM needs by summing the bathing and other water uses that might occur simultaneously.


What's the risk of water/rain falling on a recently placed tilework that's not grouted yet I'm currently working on renewing a concrete staircase going to the garden. The shape of the stairs make it a very time-consuming job, as every step needs several custom cuts. Currently I've 3 steps done with the tiles (glass mosaic) on flex thinset and no grouting yet.

I've always heard that it's critical to prevent water going into the thinset while it's drying and they are forecasting rain for tomorrow.  Should I be concerned and take measures to cover the worked steps? Or I just need to let it dry well before grouting?

Once the initial set/superficial hardening has taken place, water should not be a problem. Excess water is a big problem when it can still alter the mix of the cement or wash it away - after that, it won't have much effect.

On the other hand, it will be difficult to "dry the steps well" with water trapped under the tiles, so covering would probably make sense - 3 steps can't be that large of an area to cover.


Can sump pump drain pipes be installed without breaking concrete? I am installing a sump pump well in basement. From the well i would like to drive into the earth horizontally  a drain pipe to remove excess water under the concrete floor. Would a hard white PVC pipe work for this application. Would it get water from the surrounding earth?

Absolutely not...I've never seen anything like what you want to do in the 25 years I've been waterproofing basements. Perforated PVC pipe needs to be at least buried in gravel and preferably a filter fabric too. Check out the video on home pagee.


What do the neutral and ground connectors in outlets connect to? I have reviewed the answers and explanations about switching from 4 prong to 3 prong connections on a clothes dryer and grounds and neutral wires and the old way and the safer new way and the 240 volt phase shift that makes it possible to use the old (3 prong) neutral connection as a ground or substitute ground for the green wire when changing from 4 prong to 3 prong. I have a two part question which if I know the answer I think it will help me get the full grasp of this.

A) On the older 3 prong dryer outlet (NEMA 10-30), what is the neutral or ground connected to under the house (water pipe? nothing?)

B) On the newer 4 prong dryer outlet (NEMA 14-30), what are the 2 neutral/ground connectors connected to? (same water pipe? different water pipe?)

Neutrals, grounds, NEMA 10, NEMA 14, and the First Rule of Electricity

The old way (3-wire) is called NEMA 10, and abuses the neutral as a protective chassis ground.  This works because the neutrals and grounds are bonded together in the main panel -- the purpose of a ground wire for an appliance is to send wayward current from the case back where it came i.e. the service entrance, while the neutral wire is going in the same direction, so to speak.  However, the NEMA 10 setup is problematic because if the combined neutral/ground breaks, the dryer's chassis will then float off to some shocking potential.

NEMA 14 (4-wire) eliminates this problem by separating the neutral and the ground, making them take two different paths back to that main panel bond.  That way, if the neutral wire to the dryer breaks or otherwise fails, the ground's still there to protect you from getting zapped.

When all else fails, remember the First Rule of Electricity: CURRENT FLOWS IN LOOPS!!! This means that electricity isn't ever trying to go to "ground", whatever-the-@$(!@$ that means, or to some random water pipe somewhere that really only is tangentially related to the entire electrical system.  It's always trying to get back to where it came from -- your electrical service from the utility or the battery in your car, for example.

Think of it like some district steam plant -- the utility is only loaning you the electrons or water molecules, as they are mere carriers of the energy you're getting sold.  Just like the steam utility would cut off someone who took all their valuable water and let it out into the atmosphere, the electric utility wants their electrons back just as much, if not more, and the same holds true for your car battery.


How far apart should temporary A braces be on 18ft side walls before permanent bracing? I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a code for temporary bracing of a non-residential building before it is permanently braced with plywood? I was curious to know how far apart each "A" brace shoud be on an agricultural building in Minnesota, used to store machinery, that is 50'x80' with 18ft sidewalls?

I would suggest that you brace as required to keep the structure straight and square. The sidewalls will be affected by how straight the lumber is in the first place and also by the process of installing the side wall sheathing. You will need bracing as required to push the shape of the framing into plumb and square and then hold it there.

Also be aware that since the integrity of the structure is not complete until the roof trusses are placed and fastened to the upper plate of the sidewalls you will need bracing in place to deal with forces of nature. As you begin to install the side wall sheathing even moderate amounts of wind can place significant pressure on the wall structures so bracing will be needed to make sure that a strong gust does not come by and flatten all your work.


Refrigerator big temperature difference between bottom and top shelf I feel that my refrigerator is under-performing. I have the thermostat set to the coldest position, waited 24 hours, and with a thermometer it reads 4c on the lowest shelf, and between 8c and 9c at the top shelf.

However, when I checked another fridge, that measured around 4c at the bottom, and 5c at the top.

Do some fridges show bigger temperature differences top to bottom than others, or dies it sound like I have a problem?

So far I have:

Checked that the light is not staying on.
Checked that the door seal does not have any splits.
Checked the condenser coils at the back of the unit - they are very clean.
Switched the unit off for a few minutes and then back on in case that resets anything.

The integrated freezer (which is underneath the refrigerator) seems to be working perfectly.

Do I need to call someone out, or is there anything else I could check myself?

Another cause of this temperature difference can be over-filling of the refrigerator. Refrigerators rely on air movement for heat (cold) distribution. If overfilled, this can impede air movement.


220v 30amp circuit, tool needs 220v 20amp service I have existing 220v 30amp circuit not being used. I’m installing 2hp motor on table saw that requires 220v 20amp service. Can I use the 30amp circuit?

The short answer is yes.  The basic parameters are acceptable.  However, a load like this is not like plugging in a table lamp.  The power supply for this saw must meet a number of safety and professional standards; wire size, breaker size, wire terminations, length of run, among them.  And, you can shorten the life of the saw motor if you neglect even one.


outdoor light post rusted out at the ground. How to I prevent it the next time? I have an outdoor free standing light in my subdivision yard.

It is on a 5" diameter metal pole. This pole was driven into the ground and has rusted at the ground level and broken.

I need to fix it and want to prevent this from happening again. I prefer not to go to concrete since there are electrical wires in the ground.

How do I prevent this from rusting out again?

Make sure concrete is above ground.  3-4" is usually good.  This will keep standing water out.
Paint metal before putting it in concrete.  A metal primer and a sealant coat goes a long way.
Slope concrete form away from pole on the top 1-2 inches.  If you do this right the concrete at pole will be about a 1/2" taller than concrete at edges.  Your pole is rusting quicker because of standing water.
Caulk concrete to post gap.


Is there a revolving small flat file for a drill? I would like to file down (just a bit) a metal tube's end to make it completely flat. See a drawing of it in another question of mine on this site Fix a faucet that has a groove . Taking that drawing as the case, I would like to file it from what in the drawing is the top, in order for that top to be flat instead of having that groove. In reality the groove is very small, but it's big enough to cause a bit of a drip to pass through it despite a rubber part closing it from the top.

I was thinking that if there is some revolving small flat file for a drill, something like the following drawing (the flat black part being reminiscent of sandpaper):

I could point the drill towards the tube and file the edge so that there will be no groove and the rubber part will close it hermetically. I can't get to the tube's edge from the side because it's surrounded by another tube which goes farther than its edge. But I can get to it from the top.

I remember seeing something like what I'm looking for but much bigger (and perhaps for wood) and I can't find any images of it now. I'm probably using the wrong keywords.

So does such a file exist, and if so, what is it called?

EDIT

Perhaps the rubber part that closes on the pipe is called a compression faucet valve cartridge.

I can't cut it off from the side. Unfortunately there is absolutely no access from the side.

As mentioned in a comment, the term seems to be a sanding disc. But at least so far, I can't find any narrow ones with a diameter of under an inch. Do those exist? I just remembered where I've seen them - at the dentist. Though I assume dentists' tools would be super expensive. I just need an attachment for a drill.

EDIT 2

Here's the best I could do (a cross section of what I have):

The dotted yellow line is what I need to file. Its diameter is a little under half an inch (around 1 cm). The green is the rubber part that's supposed to seal it.

It sounds like what you are describing here (and in the other thread) is called the "seat" for the valve stem washer, and usually that seat is replaceable for this exact reason. If it is replaceable, the inside will have a geometric shape, usually hexagonal, sometimes square (or the corners of a square cut into the sides of a round opening, see below), to accept a tool that us used to unscrew and remove it. Here is an example of a bad faucet seat, one with a "groove" in it like you describe.

You typically cannot see anything but the end when you remove the valve stem, so you may not have known that this is a separate piece. But if you look on this photo, the insides are hexagonal, so you can use a hex key tool to remove it. They are almost always made of brass so that they do not corrode and become impossible to remove, but it sometimes takes some effort. Once you do so, take it to a hardware store and you can buy new seats, they are cheap. They will come in pairs, replace them both because if one is corroded, the other one probably is not far from it too.

Here is an example of the type that needs a square tool.


How can I remove a single cracked floor tile? How can I remove a single damaged floor tile without damaging the surrounding tiles? Is there anything that will help the replacement tile from cracking in the same way?

There is a dremel tool called the multi-max that I have used before. You can get a diamond attachment for it that will cut through grout like butter. Once you get the grout out you should be able pop up the tile and replace it.


What is the cheapest way to brighten a basement workshop? I have a bare concrete block unfinished basement.  I have zero moisture problems (it's a 2007 construction with exterior waterproofing applied to the concrete along with a buried perimeter drain).  The point is, I am not concerned with adding waterproofing to the interior.

My main goal is to brighten the interior as much as possible.  Since this is for a workshop, I'm not worried about a smooth finish.  What's going to give me the most bang for my buck?

Painting the walls will help, but if your workshop is anything like mine, you're going to cover a large percentage of the wall area with workbenches, peg boards, machines, shelves, etc. And all the paint in the world won't help if you don't have adequate light sources in the first place. So spend money first on lighting, and then on paint if you have funds left over. Using higher quality lighting, and preferably several different types of lighting, will make working easier and more pleasant, so it'll be money well spent.


Sub panel for garage Can I put a sub panel in a garage 100 feet away from house. I only have 100 amp service in home. What size wire and breaker should I need?

Sure you can, the size wire will be based on your load. I would put in 2 or 4x what you think you need to start with because as soon as you get it done you will find something else you want then in 5 years a electric car charger , I have never reduced the size of a service but many times gone back and increased the service in 1 case we did it 3 times , a few lights and outlets a 30amp 240 v feed would be fine but get a 100 amp main breaker panel and put in at least 1” conduit now you can run #10 thhn/thwn wires wire to the panel and in the future if you need larger you can go all the way up to #4. You put a 30 amp double pole breaker in the main panel and your sub panel is set up for future possible growth. A garage or out building all the outlets need to have GFCI protection even the ceiling receptacles, if the lights are direct wire they don’t require GFCI protection. You will also need a ground rod with #6 copper going to the ground buss and the Neutral buss needs to be isolated from ground in a sub panel (they are connected in the main only). Hope that helps. FYI your voltage drop at a full 30 amp load would be 2.62% the max recommended is 3% so you are good there, if you can afford larger wire go as big as you can, I purchase wire online much of the time and one place to get a good deal is wireandcableyourway.com no association other than having purchased thousands of feet, best price but takes a few days.

Always purchase more than what you measure if your total length is 112’ panel to panel order 117’ it is better to waste a couple of feet than be an inch short and even measuring with mule tape that is marked every foot I find I always need at least a foot or 2 more than the measurement was , my apprentice just learned this lesson on a 150’ pull he ordered the wire pre cut at 154 and we ended having to splice lucky we were inside a machine center and could splice or we would had to put a junction box in and splice there wasting more wire as the breaker was at floor level and the conduit was in the ceiling he now has no problem wasting a few feet.


How to secure supply wires to panel I'm installing a subpanel that is fed by 3 #1 conductors and a #4 ground (Al, XHHW-2, individual wires).  I would like to use a 2-piece clamp to secure to the subpanel and to protect the wires from the metal case.  However, my understanding (possibly wrong) is that individual wires cannot be clamped.  Is that true?
If that is true then how do I go about securing/protecting the wires as the enter the panel? We are still on NEC 2014.
Here is the original plan.  Run individual conductors from the main panel to subpanel.  The wires will be buried in 2" conduit.  This 2" conduit will come out of the ground into an LB box, which will feed the wires into my workshop wall (this wall will be closed off, so the wires will be protected, so no need for conduit inside the wall, right?).  The wires will then go into the panel.  Do these wires need protected/clamped together as they enter the panel, or do I need to put conduit in the wall?

The wall isn't enough, you need a conduit there
What you're missing is that you can't have loose wires outside of a recognized Chapter 3 wiring method (i.e. cable, conduit, or some other sort of raceway), and "wires loose in a wall" isn't a wiring method that the NEC provides for. So, you need to run a short length of conduit between the LB and the panel; most often, though, you can do this with a PVC box adapter fitting instead of a short length of conduit, though, as the LB will be set up to be directly opposite a knockout on the back of the panel if you've laid out your run properly.


How can I increase the heating efficiency of a forced air system? What are some DIY ways to increase the efficiency of a forced air heating system?

Please answer in Community wiki fashion: 1 tip per answer.

As @Jay Bazuzi pointed out, tips can also include ways to increase heat retention or other ways to save money on heating bills.

Look for cold spots in your home. A room that tends to stay cold, despite your attempts to keep it warm is a signal of trouble. A nice tool for all such problems is the hand-held thermal sensor you can now buy, like this Black and Decker Thermal leak detector. Just aim it at a spot on a wall, ceiling, etc., and click the button. It gives you the temperature. Now move the sensing spot around, and look for cold spots. This can tell you if you have missing insulation in a wall cavity, or a spot of cold air entry into your home. Use this to decide to add weather stripping to a window or door for example, or to inject foam insulation into a deficient wall cavity, or simply to help you balance warm air flow through your heating system.