DIY Console Table - Unstable Design I have embarked on creating my own hallway console table because I was unable to find a narrow enough one on the market that fit my space. For my design I went with 2 IKEA Bergshult shelves to save me from using unfinished wood. I bought a short and long one because the legs I bought are too short to fit above the radiator. The plan was to attach the 2 shelevs and create a little shelf that will elevate the top shelef above the radiator and the bottom fits just fine in between the gap and the radiator.
Thats the design explanation and why I am designed it like this. My problem now is the table is unstable and won't stand without falling. How do I stabilise it?
I thought of orienting it like the picture, with the small shelf acting like the base, and buying another small shelf to continue with the original design, but how will I attach the new small shelf as the top on the "Bottom" of the hollow legs?

Two legs won't stand up by themselves. It works for a person, but that has a lot to do with center of gravity and the brain helping keep the body stable. Two sticks of metal and a slab of wood need a bit of help.
You generally won't find anything with one or two legs standing by itself, unless each leg has a much larger base attached. Think about a typical small round table. It has one leg, but the bottom will typically be a circle several inches (or more) in diameter, sometimes deliberately weighted for stability.
The solution for a table that will be up against a wall is to use some mounting brackets under one of the shelves to attach the table to the wall, ideally into studs if the walls are typical (for the US) drywall over wood frame. Done right, the legs will still support the bulk of the weight and the brackets will provide stability, so the brackets don't need to be nearly as large as they would be to support shelves without legs.


Bringing aerial cable into an existing PVC Conduit Body I have an existing exterior conduit entering my house, carrying low voltage (CAT6, Coax) wires from our detached garage to my inside equipment room. I need to bring a new fiber-optic cable (for fiber internet) into the same equipment room in the same location where this conduit terminates. My goal here is to avoid having to drill additional holes in the side of the house to bring the cable inside, and see if I can somehow tap into the existing conduit body on the exterior.

Since the conduit contains existing wires, I can't just replace the conduit body with one that has an extra connector. Is there some type of conduit body extension that would bolt in between the existing body and the lid and provide for another ingress point into the conduit? If so, what is it called?

Inside the house, the conduit goes into a junction box, before continuing through flexible interior conduit to the final destination. Worse case, I could drill the wire through next to the conduit body and I still should be able to get it into the junction box to get into the interior conduit for the final segment.

tl;dr I wasn't able to achieve the install without another hole, but it all worked out cleanly in the end.

Thanks to all who commented on this, your insight was helpful as I thought through how to do this. Ultimately, I wasn't able to find an actual port cover or extension ring anywhere -- seems like a potential business opportunity, but maybe this is a rare scenario :)

Today was install day, and ultimately it was quite successful. Since a slackbox was required to hold the excess fiber, and combine the outdoor and indoor cables, the tech drilled a 1/4" hole through the back of the interior junction box to exit the house to the right of the conduit body. The fiber enters the back of the slackbox and it's a nice clean look. It's sealed up with silicone, and just needs a coat of paint to make it blend in to the house. The aerial fiber comes from the pole and down behind the downspout.

On the inside, we attached pull string to one coax line in the wiring cabinet and pulled it into the junction box. Then, we attached the fiber to the coax (along with another pull string for the future), and re-pulled it back to the destination. It's basically a straight run along an interior wall, and worked out great. The ENT is 1.5" diameter, I believe, to answer a prior comment. It's got a bunch of wires in there, but there was plenty of room for the fiber. And yes, the interior cable they used is pretty bendable, so had no issues in that regard.


Stand heavy mirror on its corner I have a heavy square mirror and a shoe bench. I would like to put the mirror on top of the bench, but  the mirror on top, but standing on its corner.

The mirror is too heavy to hang from the wall.
I can put a nail on the wall and attach the top corner of the mirror to it.
This will make the mirror not move sideways.

Now, for the corner of the mirror that would be resting on the shoe bench I would like to make something that lies between the mirror and the bench.
That it serves as extra support but also prevents the mirror and the bench from damaging each other. They are both made out of wood.

I am not sure what would be a good shape or material for such a stand.

I was surprised I didn't have much luck finding images in Google with a mirror standing on its corner. It seems a more uncommon setting than I thought.

The mirror is too heavy to hang from the wall.

No, its not.  You can hang 300+ lbs on a wall.  Find the center line of a stud and use the proper fastener.

Even without a stud, a couple high quality dry wall anchors would hold up 50 lbs easily.

  It seems a more uncommon setting than I thought.

Because it's a good way to break the mirror.


What's the best way to shave off 1/8 of an inch from hardie board? When laying hardie backer I was told to make my joints as tight as possible, so I imagine I'll run into this often.
Currently I have a standard 6' board that just barely doesn't fit inside the lip of the tub (I'm leaving a 1/4" gap below per hardie board's instructions).
What is the best way to shave off a piece of hardy board so I can make a tight fit?

You can use one of those cheese grater looking rasps most people use for drywall. They're called serrated contour planes.

Something like the Stanley Surform Pocket Plane or Stanley Surform Plane-Type

Those tools will be quicker/easier and make less of a mess than using a power saw. Or at least a more controlled mess. You can also use a utility knife with a sharp blade but the rasps are easier to use and safer.


Water comes out of the shower head when faucet is in tub fill mode (I know why, but not how to fix) Here is the deal - I got bathroom remodeled. Moen 82603 single handle valve. When the water is coming out the fastest (mixing hot/cold) water comes out of the shower head. The person (not me) I had helping installed the valve at about 48" from tub floor or about 30" above faucet. The directions clearly stated the valve can't be more than 11" above the faucet. So basically the new shower wall is toast since if I have to have this re-done, and the valve lowered, it's a complete re-do.

Question?  What are some better options? I can get into the plumbing by removing the drywall in the adjacent room.

Most likely the problem is just the diverter on your tub spout, it's probably not opening all the way, which allows some back pressure to build up in the pipe that eventually gets back up to the shower head. It could also be corrosion inside of the pipe that is having the same effect.

I don't see how it would have anything to do with the height of the valve, unless maybe the lack of head pressure (weight of the column of water in the pipe) isn't enough to overcome the back pressure created by your diverter valve. The Moen valve is just on or off, it doesn't tell the water which way to go, that's done with the diverter.

If that doesn't do it, the other option would be to put a shut-off valve at the shower head spout. Same net effect, no need to open the wall.


Can I use my oven without a light bulb cover? I was trying to replace the light bulb in my oven. When I removed the light bulb cover (made of very thick glass)I dropped it and it broke. My question is..can I use my oven without a light bulb cover over the light bulb ?

The bulb, if it is rated to be used in an oven, will function without a glass cover. The reason for the tempered glass cover is to protect the bulb from damage due to pans and trays and also it keeps it clean from hot liquids. To save yourself the hassle and expense for replacing the bulbs it would be wise to order a replacement cover.


New Thermostat installed but compressor comes on immediately I have a new Insteon Thermostat that I'm using to replace my prior Honeywell t-stat. This is installed to a relatively new HVAC system (both AC and Heat) that DOES have a "c" wire. I've attached the wires correctly in that the terminals on the furnace control side are matched to the terminals on the t-stat by "code" (meaning G goes to G, Y goes to Y, W goes to W, C goes to C and R goes to R).

I'm not quite sure that the secondary 24VAC is wired into all of this correctly and perhaps that's why the compressor comes on as soon as the system is energized.

Below is a photo of the wiring diagram on the furnace. NOTE: On the furnace terminals, the wire terminating into "R" is red, the wire into "Y" is yellow, the wire into "G" is green, the wire into "C" is blue, and the wire in "W" is white; you'll note that this is maintained on the t-stat side as well.

And here is the photo of the inside of the thermostat:

Any help anyone can offer on how or what might be wrong would be most appreciated.

TRANSFORMER NOTE:
The red wire off of the 24VAC transformer is "spliced" into the red wire going between the furnace and the t-stat.
Similarly, the white wire off of the transformer is spliced into the blue (common) wire between the furnace and the t-stat.
I have a feeling this is the problem, but I'm not sure how to "fix" it.

Ultimately I figured out what I was doing wrong with help of this question:
Adding a C Wire To A New Honeywell Wifi Thermostat

I was mistaking the 24VAC transformer for the relay to the outdoor unit. The only thing I really needed to do to the original wiring was connect the blue wire ("C") going up to the t-stat to the splice bundle near the furnace.


What is this electrical box with a button? I have a small electrical box with a small button on it in the front of my house.  I traced the wire as much as I could.  One end is this box with a button.  It leads to the front of my detached garage.  Then the wire goes to the back of my garage (toward the back of the house), where it appears to go through drywall (I'm not sure where it goes from there).

Does anyone have any what this might be?  I considered pressing the button, but I have no idea what it is and was hoping someone might know!

Image attached...

Thanks in advance!

It's how the city reads your water meter. You should be able to trace the wires back to your water meter, or if that isn't feasible, look at your water meter and you'll probably see a device on it with two wires of the same color.

I doubt that "button" can actually be pressed, rather it's the contact point where the meter reader places their probe to take the reading.

(source: thetimes-tribune.com)


multiple ground wires in a circuit I have an ac circuit with 3 ground wires. This circuit switches between two ac power sources, accounting for two of the ground wires. The last ground wire comes from a switch. Is it safe to pigtail these ground wires together and connect them to a ground terminal on an electric receptacle?

That would be usual and standard practice.  Just make sure that it goes back to a quality ground in a panel. etc.


New plumbing - Lose Water Pressure in Outdoor Hose First time soldering plumbing.  Replaced shut-off and new frost free bib.  The water pressure in house is normal.  When I use the hose it spurts out water normally with good pressure then 2 seconds later there is pressure loss where it just pours out.
I checked the frost bib and stem is okay.  Checked the plumbing connections with paper towel around and no leaks but i noticed that there was dripping water from the top of the shut-off where the nut is.  Does anyone know why this is happening?  Do i need to replace the shut off again because it is faulty?
At the plumbing when hose is activated i notice good pressure to start then it sort of sucks back and then little to no pressure?

If you have 2 seconds of good flow followed by low flow there is a restriction upstream.  The longer the burst the further up stream the restriction is.
The leak at the ball valve stem, You may have melted the oring or nylon seat that seals the shaft when soldering. The heat deforming the seal causing the leak.
I have had luck removing the nut and handle then the nut on the shaft. Orings are easy and cheap the ones that have nylon sleeves can be a bit tougher to find.
In some cases I have purchased another valve same size and brand and pulled the seal out to repair but most have been orings.


Replacement Siding; Demo Complications Location: Oklahoma City.  Tornados and storms abound.  A hail and wind storm has prompted the replacement of the vinyl siding.  During demo of the damaged vinyl I discovered a wood siding layer underneath the vinyl.  The wood layer is rotted and in various areas the tongue and groove sheathing is exposed.  The sheathing in 30-40% of the exterior, that I have exposed from the wood siding removal, has deteriorated so much that the lightest touch turns it to powder.  Beyond the sheathing is insulation and interior sheetrock.  I feel it would be neglectful not to replace the sheathing and maybe put up an air barrier as well.  Or should i just leave the wood siding that remains and just install the vinyl siding over it.  Also the roof has just been replaced.

I'm not sure of the best way to proceed.  I was leaning towards OSB sheathing, Tyvek air barrier, foam insulation, and finally vinyl siding.

Is this the recommended course of action?

Replacing the deteriorated siding and upgrading with the air barrier and insulation does sound like the correct route - ignoring a problem of that scale just gets more expensive to fix later.


General Questions On Exterior House Painting I have a 100+ year old two story house with wood siding that the paint starting to chip off.  I have a couple general questions regarding the project that I am hoping you can assist.

1)  I am not super fond of heights so I am looking for an alternative to using an extension ladder.  I would love to use some scaffolding but this project will likely take me several weeks and I am looking to not spend a ton of money.  I am considering buying a tall (15-20 ft) a-frame step ladder.  Would that be a decent solution?

2)  I am pretty sure the last time it was painted, the previous owner used a flat latex paint.  Should I use that again or would a semi-gloss be a better long term solution?

3) Brush vs sprayer.  Is it possible to get a good, solid coat of paint with a sprayer?  I would love to avoid doing this again in a couple years LOL

Personally, I feel safer on an extension ladder leaned up against the house, compared to a free standing step ladder. They topple too easily. But you do what makes you feel safest. What kind of wood siding do you have? If it's horizontal like ship lap, I would use a brush. I tried spraying mine once and in the process of trying to get paint up into the cracks under each board, the paint built up and ran. So I ended up going over it immediately with a brush anyway. Eventually I stopped bothering with the sprayer. But if it is vertical siding, spraying is fine.


Do I really need to wait a month before applying primer to plaster? I've recently removed wallpaper and now I've gone through and plastered over some bad spots on the wall. I've already sanded it down and it's ready for primer. However, when reading the instructions on the primer, it says new plaster must age for 30 days before priming.  Do I really need to wait 30 days if I've just patched a few places up? What's the reason for waiting? Here's what I'm using in case it helps:

Ace Vinyl Spackling
Premium Royal Latex Primer

The reason for waiting is to ensure that the plaster dries completely. If you paint over damp plaster the moisture has to still come out - through the paint causing it to bubble and come away. You will end up having to repaint at the very least.

If you have only patched the wall then you should be able to prime and paint it sooner as there is less area to dry.

However, I would leave it as long as possible before painting, just to be sure.


how to setup bathtub spout and shower head in separate locations I am installing a new bathtub that is big enough for two people. with one person leaning against each end of the tub.   So I want to have the shower head in the usual position at the end of the tub, but the tub-filling spout in the center of the long side of the tub.

I'm thinking I can I just use one valve/faucet set with a diverter, like the usual setup.   I'm thinking the valve/faucet should be closer to the spout. So then, the only difference (than the usual arrangement) is that the pipe from the valve to the shower will be quite a bit longer. The issue is, would the pressure drop to the shower head be such that the flow is too low ? If I understand, shower flow is limited mostly by the shower head, so if I installed a high-flow shower head, maybe I'd be ok.

But if not, if the shower flow would be too low that way, I'd consider installing two completely separate valves/faucets, one for the shower and one for the tub spout.  It'd cost a bit more, but it wouldn't be that much trouble, because there are already pipes coming up along the long side of the tub, because the washing machine is on the other side of the wall.

Hardly any noticeable difference; though a "high flow" showerhead would make any difference WORSE, not better, as well as increasing your water use needlessly.

The water is already traveling through many feet of pipe to get to the bathroom. Whether there's 4 more feet of pipe to the showerhead or 9 more feet of pipe to the showerhead makes very little difference, particularly at the typical 2.5 GPM flow. At a more efficient 1.5 GPM flow, even less.

4 feet of 1/2" plastic pipe @2.5 gpm = 0.625 feet added head. (0.27 PSI)

9 feet of 1/2" plastic pipe @2.5 gpm = 1.406 feet added head. (0.61 PSI)

4 feet of 1/2" plastic pipe @1.5 gpm = 0.243 feet added head. (0.11 PSI)

9 feet of 1/2" plastic pipe @1.5 gpm = 0.547 feet added head. (0.23 PSI)

There's also no particular reason to put the valve set closer to the spout - so you could just put the longer pipe on the spout, and take advantage of the pipes in the shower wall.


How to bridge a gap between two countertops? In my kitchen I would like to give myself some more worktop space by filling a gap (of approximately 55cm/21.5in) between two cupboards with an additional piece of countertop. The cupboards either side of the gap already have a worktop installed which I don't want to replace as I'd like to keep this as a simple job, not replace my entire worktop).

I've attempted to recreate an image of the scenario (with the gap to be filled in the middle) below (sorry for the low quality, today was the first time I've ever used SketchUp!). To the left is a cupboard which is joined onto a wall on its left side. To the right is a small wine rack and then a cupboard to the right of that. Behind both is a wall.

I don't wish to add a cupboard in this gap since it will be used for a tumble dryer, I just want to make the work surface semi-continuous (I am okay with using joint trim either side of the new piece of worksurface).

My main issue is that the existing sections of worksurface are flush to the panels either side of the gap, so there's nothing for my new section of worksurface to be supported with. I had thought about using "L" brackets, but was concerned about which size brackets I would need and how strong it would actually be.

I had also thought about perhaps adding two or three pieces of wood (e.g. 2x1in) equally spaced across the gap at the top of the panels and fixing them with screws to the cupboards either side so that the worktop could sit on them instead, although I wasn't sure if this would be any stronger than using "L" brackets.

Is there a easy-ish way for me to do this? I'm not a DIY expert by any means, but I am happy to give things a good crack.

The easiest way to do this is buy a piece of 1x3 lumber.   Cut a piece to go across the back and screw to wall (predrill your lumber).   Put a piece in each side and screw to cabinets.   You do not have to make your sides the full length - you can hide the ledgers and make the counter look floating.

If you know your counter material you can deduct that to get the height of the boards you are drilling in so your counter matches flush on both sides.  After your ledgers are done you can glue or screw the counter down or even use finishing nails depending on counter material.   b

This is a very non-invasive method that will cost you $5-6 in lumber and 6 screws plus a little wood glue.   This will look better and won't sag and will assure that counter meets up well with existing tops.


What pipe has approx 5/8" (.625) ID? I need to make some spacers on a 5/8" axle shaft and I'm thinking if I could just buy a steel or even pvc pipe with 5/8" ID or slightly over that will be the easiest solution.  Is there a standard steel/pvc/conduit size that I can get from the getting spot what has a 5/8" ID?

Depending on "how much space you need" and budget, purchasing "Plain Sleeve Bearings" might be the easiest way to get this done well if you lack tools to make your own. Such bearings are inexpensive, widely available, and come in many lengths and outer diameters with a bore that fits your shaft well.
Closest (larger) common thing I find is 3/4 PEX at 0.681 but that may not be "tough enough" - alternatively a steel tubing supplier (metal shop) may have more size choice in "not hardware store/home center" product.


How can I fix a cabinet to plasterboard with brick wall behind? I aim to fit a (fairly heavy) kitchen wall cabinet to a plasterboard wall. Behind the plasterboard there does not appear to be any studs. So I guess the plasterboard (what I would call drywall - plasterboard with no studs) has been glued to the brick exterior wall which lies behind the plasterboard. The cabinet once fitted will be laden with lots of heavy pans etc.

Can the plasterboard be drilled through and into the brick wall behind it? What type of plugs / fastening would be recommended?

I'd recommend these lag shields

 but the info in this link can help you decide. You could probably go with simple lead sleeves but without knowing the condition of your brick or the exact weight of the load you'll be supporting lag shields are a safer bet. As far as going through the plasterboard goes, it's not any different than attaching something to studs through drywall, you just need to make sure you're drywall is compressed between the cabinet back and the supporting wall. If there is a void between the two it will collapse when you tighten down your anchors or worse, when you put weight in your cabinet.


Why do I see 240v between hot and neutral when one breaker is out in my mobile home? This is an a double wide mobile home. The two sides of the kitchen are on different circuits. When both Breakers are on one side reads 120 hot to ground 120 neutral to ground 240 something hot to neutral. When just one breaker is on it reads 120v hot to ground nothing anywhere else

Neutral to ground should not be 120.  It should be at (or very near) 0.  Neutral and ground are generally bonded at the service panel.  When only one breaker being on causes this (and the other doesn't), it seems unlikely that you have lost your neutral service from the supplier.  There is likely a fault on the neutral associated with one of the circuits.  It's also possible that there is a faulty or mis-wired MWBC (explanation of MWBC here).

You could try disconnecting the wires from the breakers in the service panel and testing directly from the breaker to the neutral and ground.  If everything tests as expected, you're looking at a wire fault.  Otherwise, the wire isn't the first problem to fix.


50 amp circuit breaker for a 30 amp electric oven? My new 30 amp (240v) oven tripped a 50 amp breaker, and now will not heat.  The warranty repair is happening, but here's my question: should I just put in a 30 amp breaker to protect the oven
from breaking?  (Note, I'm not worried about the wiring -- everything is rated for 50 amps)

Actually there is a code reference for breaker sizes in this case.
The reference table is on NEC 210.24 ,,  210.21.B.2 & B.3 show the tables.
A 30 amp device is a bit vague if the device draws 30 amp it could be on a 40 amp protected circuit, but not normally a 50.
In this case we would check the mfg instructions.
I have found a few cases where the mfg designed the oven for use on a 50 amp circuit.
The circuit breaker is to protect the wiring but the code also limits the maximum size breaker in article 422.11.E.3  to 150% of the devices rated current. if the oven had a true draw of 30 amps a 45 amp breaker would be the maximum size.
If the device only draws 24 amps and is rated for a 30 amp circuit a 40 amp breaker would be allowed if the device has no maximum stated.
If the device states 30 amp max OCPD that value can not be exceeded no mater how large the wire is.
So depending on the mfg requirements I would change the breaker to the recommended size because some mfg’s will do anything to get out of a warranty repair. Two large of a breaker would not cause a fault but could allow much more damage to happen and some use any reason to deny a repair.


can i wire 2x 30amp double pole circuits to a 60 amp device In the USA, I am replacing a 4x 30amp tankless water heater on double pole circuit breakers with one that is 1x 60 amps. Can I reuse 2x 30amp double pole circuits and wire them both to the L1-L2 terminals in the heater?  I want to avoid pulling new #6 wire that the 60amp DB-CB requires.

Globally, no.  You cannot "parallel" except in extremerly rare circumstances and with special equipment.

But consult the documentation on that water heater.  You can do that if and only if the labeling or instructions say so, and by following the instructions.  This is codified in NEC 110.3B.

(I'm hoping that the heater is actually two 30A heating elements internally, and some jumper straps could be removed to allow them to be powered separately).

Given the annoyance of having to change the wiring like that, I would return that water heater and get one that takes 2-4 30A circuits.

Also be aware you are halving the size of the on-demand heater.  It will give you dramatically less hot water.  A huge risk with on-demand water heaters is people failing to adequately size the heater, and then being disappointed with the results and blaming the heater.  This often leads to failed installations (people removing it in disappointment and having to buy another one).


What "code" applies to projects that I do in my own home? A good portion of the answers and discussion on this site references "code".

What does a DIY-er need to know about code as it relates to project in their own home? Most of what I can find online either refers to commercial projects or third-party projects.

Also, which code applies? For example, I live in Fairfax County, Virginia, in the USA. It would seem that there are at least 3 levels of code that might apply:

Fairfax County Home Improvement Code
State of Virginia Residential Code
International Residential Code

You need to contact your local building department.  In the U.S., most of the residential building regulations exist at the state level, but in many states the codes can be amended by counties and even individual towns.

The International Residential Code and its competitors are "model codes."  States often adopt model codes (with local modifications) to avoid the cost and hassle of writing their own codes from scratch, and also because it is beneficial for codes to be harmonized so that the same building materials can be used in different locations.


Should I add a vapor barrier to kraft faced insulation? I am redoing our master bath. We completely gutted the room, and I have two exterior walls with R13 kraft paper faced insulation. Should I add a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier to the walls? Would it trap in moisture, or help as an additional vapor barrier? I'm thinking it will cut down on any leaking drafts as well. I have two large headers for two windows that have no insulation behind them (no room) I'm thinking the plastic will cut out any drafts. I have the same kraft insulation in the ceiling also, and want to do that with plastic as well.

Also is R13 the maximum I can use in a typical 2 x 4 studded wall?

Any high humidity area like a bathroom should have a good vapor barrier under the sheetrock. This barrier should be taped at the seams and ceiling forming sort of an air tight cell.  Usually a kraft backed insulation is not a very good vapor barrier and has lots of gaps. To be on the safe side and avoid any condensation between the 6 mil and kraft, you could simply remove the kraft backing or cut several slices in it top to bottom. Usually it will not cause a problem unless you live in a very wet humid climate  or the plastic is not sealed properly.  The 6 mil is a much better material for your purpose than kraft backed.


What does code say about powered semi-permanent furniture? I like to build things, and I've been drafting up plans for a headboard for quite a while now.  One of the things I want my headboard to have is a number of outlets, since laying on my bed is where I often realize I need to plug a device (charger for my laptop, etc) in.  I'm going to be moving around a fair amount (military), so I need this to be compliant with the most up-to-date codes.

I've worked with mains voltage before - and I'm very comfortable with electricity in general; I'm a computer engineer (so I normally work with much lower voltages).  I am not an electrician, and trying to read through the 2020 edition of the fire code to see what's even relevant to my situation is leaving me with a bit of a headache - not even sure where to look.

Here's the tentative plan: a heavy-duty appliance cord (3-prong) will be plugged into the wall in the bedroom, as the main source of power.  The other end will be wired to provide the power for an outlet on the headboard.  The connection from that outlet will be daisy-chained to a couple more outlets with some fairly robust romex, all hidden/built into the headboard.  Essentially it's a very physically large power strip.

I also plan on having some other electronics in the headboard - LED lights and such - but I'm not sure how the code relates to this.  Will keeping any separate-voltage wiring in a conduit be sufficient?

What things should I be aware of when building this to keep it up with code?  Do I need grounded boxes around the outlets, or will the blue plastic ones be sufficient?

Do you need actual outlets? Chargers and lights can both be run off of USB, and a USB hub+extension cables doesn't even involve real wiring. It also works in both 120V and 240V countries with just a plug adapter as long as you get a 120/240V hub, which could be an issue if you just use regular outlets.

I'm not sure there's any legal concerns, because you're not putting anything in the wall, and you're not selling it. The code is for things you do to a house, and there are rules if you're going to sell it, but for assembling something for your own use, I think you just need to care about safety.

However, the rules for selling an item such as this are a good way to see if you're doing this safely. I think you want UL 962A Standard for Furniture Power Distribution Units. This is a commercial document ($500+), which you are supposed to purchase from UL, so no link.


Loss of power on one bus in main panel I have a Square D main panel with two separate load bus lines.
When I turn off main breaker I have 120 volts on each incoming supply wires to main breaker.
When I turn on any circuit breaker connected to the one bus line the voltage to that bus and to the incoming supply line drops down to anywhere from 20 to 2 volts.
But the voltage is great on breakers connected to the other bus line
What is going on.

You should check for 240 between lines, but I'm guessing you have it.

When I turn on any circuit breaker connected to the one bus line the voltage to that bus and to the incoming supply line drops down to anywhere from 20 to 2 volts.

That smells exactly like a very bad connection upstream on that leg. No current, full voltage. Turn anything on, current flows, high resistance in the bad connection, voltage you see at the panel input drops.
Given it's on the input side beyond your panel input, I think it's call the power company time in most jurisdictions.


How can I remove a beeswax finish from a wooden countertop? I want to remove the beeswax that has been rubbed into my kitchen countertops and refinish them with with Waterlox tung oil and sealer.  how do you remove beeswax from countertop?

Start with a wax stripper chemical such as you would use on floors. Use a "Scotch-brite" pad to assist with removal of old stubborn wax. Dry with rags then clean with mineral spirits. Follow that when dry with a thorough sanding with successively finer grit papers, ending with very fine (600). Then finish as desired.


Pouring concrete for fence posts in heavy rain My contractor just poured the concrete and set the posts for a new fence we are getting and much of the work was done in the pouring rain. Will this hurt the concrete and effect how it holds up down the line?

All concrete sets up under water.  http://www.cement.org/cement-concrete-basics/faqs

The only thing that will be impacted is the finish.  If the top was not covered then the concrete will take on a bumpy appearance as the finer material may wash away and expose the aggregate.


What is the simplest way to create custom decorative LED-lighting? I have always wanted to build decorative lamps with LEDs (application example: imagine a model boat with Xmas lights).

Is there a way (commercial, or custom-built) to power several LEDs, so that:

The power supply is compact, elegant, and wall-pluggable (not battery-powered)
There are simple and robust ways to wire the individual LEDs
The whole thing doesn't cost much ? (in the order of tens of USD for the power supply + LEDs + connectivity)

I know that I can buy plain LEDs from electronic manufacturers, build a power supply with my bare hands, recycle an AC/DC adapter from a phone charger, solder everything and have it running cheaply. I know (more or less) how to do this, but it would take me a long time and the result would be ugly and dirty.
On the other hand, I know that there are now LED systems that can be screwed just like a light bulb, but this is not what I am after either.

Are there any intermediate solutions that would be adequate for the above needs ?

I'm not sure how you define elegant so I'll leave that parameter out.

You can buy LED power supply on ebay, the LED-strip or other LED-array on ebay and connect them. There is somewhat of a standard that doesn't require soldering for LED-strips.


3 way switch receptacle to recessed light My current room has a 3 way switch that controls the bottom plug of the receptacle (bottom plug is controlled by switch, top is always ON). I want to do recessed lights in that room with no previous installed ceiling light. I looked at the wiring and is confused as there seem to be an extra 14/3 romex cable which is supplying power to another receptacle. So my question is, can I use the 2 bottom wires that is connected to the receptacle and pigtail them so I have a HOT, neutral, and ground. This way the switch will control both the lights and the plug?

EDIT: I just thought about something else, Since the top is always HOT can I buy a new receptacle and disconnect the two wires on the HOT end. This way the new receptacle will always be hot and I can use the 2 wires left on the bottom receptacle for the recessed lights? This way I can still use the dimmer switch for the lights.

Basically yes, typically we would say that connecting to a switched hot would be called a switchleg, so you would have a Switchleg, Neutral, and Ground if you pigtailed to the bottom two wires and the ground.


How to build an additional concrete/cinder block wall in basement, where the crawl space and basement meet The small basement in my house (built in 1932) has three concrete walls. The forth wall is comprised of vertical wood boards. Behind the boards is the crawl space for the rest of the house. The basement leaks when it rains, and we plan on adding a DIY drain system inside, all the way around the basement wall perimeter.

However, there needs to be a fourth wall constructed, since the wood slates are old, and there is just dirt behind them. A basement waterproofing company said that a "brick" wall would need to be constructed where the wood slates are so that there are four walls to our basement for a system.

Their price was quite expensive, so I'm looking to do it myself, but I know very little about building a wall in my basement. I have some limited experience building with concrete and bricks.

How should I go about building the wall? Bricks, cinder blocks? How far down should I dig to pour a footer for the wall to sit on? Any advice or resources are helpful!

First I'd provide a 22" wide by 12" thick footing.

Throw (3) continuous #4 bars in there elevated 3" clear from the bottom surface of the footing. They should be spaced 4 1/2" apart from one another and the group of 3 should be centered in the footing.
Install #4 L shaped dowels (approximately 6"x3'-0") sticking out of the top of the concrete footing at 48" on center . Tie the shorter length of these to the continuous bars mentioned in step 1 to keep them in place when pouring the concrete. Alternate the direction (left and right) of the shorter length of the L.

Then I'd construct a 8" CMU wall.

Place an additional #4 straight bar in the cells the contain the dowels. Footing should already be poured.
Vertical grouting at 48" on center. (grout the cells of the CMU that have the rebar)


How do I fix leaking sprinkler line from this valve? After restoring water to my sprinkler system line, I noticed it is leaking between two pieces of the valve.  Is this something that can be fixed easily or do I need to have a plumber come out and cut the pipe, replace the valve and re-solder everything back together?  It's leaking where the bottom female part where you tighten with the wrench and the section with the "1" on it meet in the photo below.

Click for full size

From the corrosion, I'm guessing this has been leaking for a while. If it's just a bad threaded joint, then you just need to unscrew the fittings, starting at the closest union, clean the threads, reapply some pipe dope to the male threads, and screw them back together in reverse order. It's a pretty easy repair requiring a couple of large wrenches, a wire brush, and pipe dope. If you have an inside shutoff to just this line, it's very DIY.

If the valve is leaking from the stem, and that's a 1/4 turn shutoff, then you should simply replace it. These tend to be very nice valves, but there isn't much to repair when they fail.

If a soldered joint is leaking, then the pipe should be cut and soldered again with new sections of pipe.

Unless this has been leaking ever since the installation, I'd guess it failed from freezing. Make sure these lines are fully drained in the winter, or wrap them with heat tape and insulation, to prevent freezing and damage in the future. And if you don't have an inside shutoff to this line, you really should get one added, along with and a drain line.


How should I test my home's humidity? We have recently replaced the windows in our home and insulated the basement, making the house much more airtight.

This combined with the fact that our dryer currently vents into the basement, we have no bathroom fans or a range hood fan makes me think that our house may be too humid than is healthy.

What would be an easy/cost-effective way to test the humidity levels in my house so that I can find out if it is too high?

A Hygrometer is used to test the level of Humidity. I'll bet that your levels are very high. High humidity can lead to health issues with mold groth, not to mention it can destroy your home. Things you can do:

Vent the dryer to outdoors, a big source of the problem!
Add a bathroom vent to the outdoors, not in an attic or other room! Run the fan for 30 minutes during and after the shower (timers are available).
Vent the range hood if possibly (least of all, but still a good idea).

If your levels still test high, you can add a dehumidifier or a more sophisticated HVAC solution. I keep my home @ no more than 40% relative humidity. Check your local for recommended settings.

Exhausting the air requires that the air be replaced with fresh air. This can be as simple as someone entering the house from outside to a system that replaces the air from an intake ported from outside. I'm not suggesting you need to go that far, unless your budget allows and your problem is that big. Often it is enough intake just from normal leakage from windows, doors etc., However with newer housing becoming increasingly tighter, some situations require the expensive solutions. The big negative of not having enough intake is that appliances like gas stoves, fireplaces, gas water heaters, gas furnace, etc, will starve for fresh air intake, from the negative pressure created. This will make the combustion incomplete causing deadly CO to escape into the home! So it is so very important that all homes have at least one CO detector!


Gas Boiler Furnace not igniting So I got a boiler that had not been used in a bit, maybe a couple of years but was working. The last time they needed to have some come light the boiler. My assumption there was the ignitor was going bad and needed to be replaced. I found a new one and replaced it, but it still wouldnt lite. I did the normal digging on the internet to test multiple things and see if I could come to a solution. I am no way certified to do this but figured Id give it the home owner try. So I took a volt meter and tested power through out the system and I am getting power everywhere. The only place I dont get a reading is from the MV connection to the gas valve which I assume is accurate because the PV sends power for the pilot to ignite. MV/PV also has power as well to the gas valve. When the furnace is powered on the damper goes from open to closed which I also assume is correct because if its not on why be open. The only thing here is it makes a buzzing sound when closed, but not all the time. When I set the thermostat to a temperature higher than what its reading, the relay kicks and sometimes that buzzing sound goes away. The recirculating pump gets power. Now if this is working or not I do not know. My lack of knowledge is the sequence it should turn on. I would think it would tell the pilot to turn on, then the pump kicks, then the MV to the gas valve gets power and allows more flow and then the damper opens. Again I dont have the education for this just the typical home owner stuff. There is a water regulator on the supply feed at 12lbs which I dont think is comprising anything. I am at a lost now and dont know what else to really test for. Another thing I noticed is when I set the thermostat higher, I dont get any voltage from the board that has the igniter plugged into. My assumption is to use a small lighter if that was the problem but I still get no flame from the pilot. My next guess is flame roll out sensor is bad, I added a picture. I ordered a new one to try since it was only 15$ so the test/fail wasnt that impactful. Please any advice or suggestions would be great, even if it is to just call someone. Knowing I gave it all I could is also satisfying. The pilot gas feed line was not clogged as well. I know gas is coming to the gas valve from checking the inlet tap.
Things that are currently new:
Gas valve and the igniter
Make and model: Vaillant GA92-080-EIVD

It was actually my thermostat. I have a new nest one and after jumping at the aquastat I realized the thermostat wasnt actually calling for heat and would just click the relay instead of staying down.


What materials should be used to seal a square sump pit I have a sump pit in my basement that I want to seal to reduce the radon levels which are around 6

The problem is that all of the sump pit covers I have found are round.  It seems like they won't work for this square type pit.

If I were to make a DIY cover, what materials should be used?

I plan on replacing my pump, but would like to avoid having a pro come in to install a modern sump pit with cover.

I would install a frame built out of treated lumber to support the lid. Anchor it to the concrete with construction adhesive and concrete screws (Tapcon). It appears that your pit is very shallow, so you may need to build the frame above the pit and surrounding it to gain height for the pump, etc. I'm thinking 2x4s against the walls and 2x10s oposite, flush on top.

Then, buy or build a polycarbonate lid using appropriate grommets for the penetrations. This company offers a great selection of parts (and a ton of good information). If you want to use one of their round covers, put a 3/4" treated plywood deck on your frame and cut a circular hole to match. Screw the lid on with a strip of foam tape underneath.

On a related note, Radon mitigation systems don't rely solely on barriers to Radon gas, per se, but airflow management. By venting underslab air, Radon is diluted and dissipated to a safe location. Simply sealing a foundation is unlikely to be successful. I'm assuming here that a fan or static suction mechanism will be installed.


How much shear load can rebar withstand? I'm thinking of integrating rebar into a short grape trellis as horizontal supports for the vines to climb on. Is there anywhere I can get the deflection/load information for rebar spans? As currently planned the spans will be 10ft and the rebar I have access to is 1/2in. Will that diameter rebar span 10ft under some load without serious/fatal deflection?

(I realize this isn't the intended use of rebar, but It seemed like a potential alternative to horizontal beams, and its a little more vine friendly)

One of the 1/2” rebar “you have access to” has enough “shear strength” to support my car full of groceries with me in it.

However, you don’t want to use it for a horizontal support of grape vines, because it will rust and deposit so much rust in your vineyard that you’ll be labeled a hazardous waste site.

Also, that rust will contaminate the taste and bouquet of that wine so much that I’d have to hold my nose to drink the wine.

Try something a little more common like wire.


Is there an easy way to strip twin and earth cable? It seems whatever method I use I sometimes damage the wire and have to hope I have enough cable to have a 2nd try.

Is there a method that works 100% of the time for someone that is not doing it every day?

A possible duplicate has been pointed out, however it talks about 12/10 guage "Romex" rather then the normal 2.5mm twin and earth we have in the UK.

There are tools which do the job for you. They will probably take a little adjustment when first used, but then they're fine. They are literally the easiest way to consistently strip mains cable.

Many years ago my father had a hand-held tool explicitly for stripping Australian 240V household wiring cable. It had two clamps, two blades and a two-part action. The first clamped the cable and made the cuts, the second separated the clamps, neatly stripping the end off the cable.

(I should add that I don't strip cable every day but I learnt how to use a small but very sharp pen knife to strip outer sheaths. A bit time-consuming, but I like doing it that way as it works on any sort of multi-core cable. And the trick to not nipping the conductor is to not cut quite all the way through the insulation: let the stripping effort break the last little bit.)


How can I remove styrofoam bits from my equipment? Is there a way to remove Styrofoam bits from my equipment efficiently?

If you have an air compressor, you can get an attachment called an air blow gun.

Since Styrofoam is so light, you should be able to simply blow it away. This tool is also helpful, if you want to make your friends laugh.

If you don't have a compressor, you could use canned air to blow the Styrofoam away.

If you don't have that either, you could always use your lungs.

Inhale deeply.
Press your lips together to form a circular opening.
Exhale hard.
Repeat until the Styrofoam is gone, or you've passed out.

Thanks BMitch for pointing out the more obvious solution... Use a f***ing ShopVac!

You can set the vac to blow, if you still want to blow the Styrofoam around for a bit.


Spot re-staining a shelf post poly? I have some shelves I'm finishing using Minwax Wood Finish and MinWax Semi-Gloss poly.  On one side of one of the shelves, there are some small damage marks.

Long story short: Some masking tape got stuck to the shelf, and in the process of removing the tape, some of the stain got scratched off.  (This happened after the poly had already cured).

So now I have two areas on this ~8'x2' shelf that are like scrapes that removed some stain.  They are about a centimeter wide, and maybe 4-5" long.  The wood itself isn't scratched.

The marks are too noticeable to ignore, but I am loathe to sand the whole thing to zero and start over.  Especially given that the rest of the board looks great; I already have to do that to another board; and it feels like I started working on these shelves when VCR's were a daring new idea.

Do I have any touch up options?

Are you saying the stain area was damaged and then poly was applied over it?

If so, there are no options. (none that do not involve sanding).

Post photos to get more experienced opinions & thoughts on this statement/answer:

If the areas are noticeable but not to an obnoxious level (right where everyone will stare all of the time), you could spot treat the area by sanding with a small tool and then stain, clean, and re-poly.

BUT it will be noticeable, so would the poly repair so: You'd light sand the surface (the entire surface) and clean, then run a new poly coat. That will help the poly/surface blending.

The stain repair WILL be noticeable (although you could possibly make it look like a natural defect in the wood). Take time when repairing to make sure the edges are treated such that you do not get a thicker border that looks like a coffee spill.

In general, you will have to decide if this is worth the time and fuss to do, or if a surface strip and re-apply is the right approach.

The advice for poly and stain and having clean surfaces includes inspection. This is something I'm sure you wish you had noticed before proceeding. Hopefully the idea above can help?


Is it possible to install a frost-proof sillcock on a steel plate? Is it possible to install a frost-proof sillcock on a steel plate?

Sure. You can install a spigot on virtually any solid surface. If you can't drill fasteners into the material, it may be feasible to use silicone, spray foam, or another substance to anchor the pipe in the hole, making for a solid installation.


How can I fix a small puncture hole in vinyl flooring? When I was installing mini blinds in my new house, a pair of needle nose pliers fell out of my tool belt and landed nose first into the vinyl floor below.  It left a very small pin sized hole in the floor, you would only notice it if you were looking for it.

Normally I would ignore something like this but my wife is rather upset about it and wants me to fix it if possible.

If there were some kind of plasticized shiny brown goo that I could just dab there then it would completely disappear, but I am unaware of such a material that would be appropriate (the floor is multiple shades of brown).

I don't think replacing a whole square section of vinyl is an appropriate fix for such a small area of damage either and the patch will probably be more noticeable than the hole.  Do you guys have any ideas on how I can McGuyver this floor repair?

A dab of caulking might do it. Look for your color at your local hardware store.


repair ceiling leak stains After a heavy rainstorm, I saw stains on the ceiling of one of my rooms.  What’s the proper way to repair stains on the ceiling caused by rainwater leak from the roof?

After fixing the leak, you might want to try bleach.  I had luck with 25 percent bleach in water.  I put a sponge, saturated with the solution, in a plastic tray and pressed it up onto the ceiling.  The stain returned in a few months and so I did it again...it is now gone.  You could try a small test area to see if it will work.
Bleach is nasty stuff.  Take precautions.


Plugging up a copper pipe via freezing When freezing a copper pipe with a refrigerant, how does one know when the pipe has enough ice to "cork" the pipe and halt water flow?   Is there an indicator or a rule of thumb?

There are numerous water pipe freeze kits on the market. You can do a computer search for "water pipe freeze kits" or try "pipefreezekits.com". I however have never used a commercial freeze kit due to their cost. Instead of this method, I always used dry ice which was available at many ice plants. I have frozen water pipes up to 3" diameter in buildings. Since the size of the frozen pipe length is very short, and the discharge length was very long, there was never a chance for the pipe to burst.
How I did this was by using "shaved dry ice" put in a bath towel and wrapping the towel around the pipe using several outer wraps of the towel to act as insulation for the dry ice. Then you wait for the pipe to show an ice layer on the pipe just past the towel. As long as you maintain the dry ice the pipe will remain frozen. I once froze a 3" supply water line in a school where all the upstream valves would not close completely, including the utilities street shut off valve and kept it frozen for 10 hours.
Make sure that you protect any exposed skin and eyes with heavy work gloves and eye protection. The dry ice is unforgiving and will freeze skin and damage eyes in seconds.


Is electrical Arc and overload the only potential fire causer for electrical wiring? I would like to know if Arc faults and circuit overlords are the only potential fire starters directly related electrical wiring failures or issues? I ask this assuming any device plugged in is not the issue (ie, appliance).
If this is the case does a afci (outlet or breaker) and standard breaker provide almost full protection? (I leave out gfci as I have not read that being related to fires but instead shock hazards)
I am including an updated list of electrical fire starters below based on the answers for benefit of other readers. These are direct underlying causes of ignition under the assumption appliance/device is operating correctly:

Arcing
High amperage overload
Continuous amperage load over certain efficiency level of gauge wiring

A fire is just uncontrolled heating, right? When a thing starts burning what's really happening is a chemical reaction that produces heat, which causes more reaction, producing more heat..
So the question becomes: how can electric power deliver enough heat in a small space to get a chemical reaction (fire) started?
Arcs are a great way. An arc produces a lot of heat without a lot of current. That's why regular over-current circuit breakers weren't good enough and we added arc fault detection too. But arc fault detectors are tuned for certain parameters. They aren't fool-proof; an arc that falls outside the detection criteria would not cause an AFCI to trip. Consider the arcing that occurs in a brushed motor and doesn't trip an AFCI. If conditions were right similar arcs could occur in the wiring, would not be interrupted, and could start a fire.
That said: one can still get plenty of heat for starting a fire with neither arcs nor over-current. Cooking fires happen all the time as a result of electric power delivering fire-starting heat without exceeding over-current limits.
It isn't hard to imagine that a deteriorated connection, or even one that just never was great to begin with, could produce some heating somewhere in the electrical system. Maybe it will get hot (resistive heating) but never arc even once. This could start a fire without being detected by AFCI or over-current. Torque specifications for connectors are part of the solution to this problem.


How to roof mount a small TV antenna? More specifically how to run cables from my Clearstream 2 antenna to the junction box and deal with grounding.  I plan on installing the mast and antenna on the south side of my roof so that it is facing the broadcast towers.  I'll need to run the coax to the north side where the junction box is.  Here are my questions:

The north side of the house has a gutter.  Can I run the cable over the gutter leave a drip loop and connect it to the soffit and then down the wall to the junction box/splitter?
I know I need a grounding block to ground the coaxial connection but do I need to ground the mast?  And if I do, how do I do about that?  I've yet to see any images of the mast for a clearstream with a grounding wire coming off of them.

The grounding rods for the house are already on the north side of the house so I have that going for me.  Any help is much appreciated.

Grounding the mast is a very good idea if it is metal. You can get ground clamps that are designed for use with water pipes and conduit of practically any diameter. They are two curved pieces of metal that have machine screws on either side to clamp to the pipe. There is also a screw terminal for your ground wire. I would put a separate ground rod in, but bond it with your other grounds at one place.

I would recommend not running the coax over the gutter, or for that matter over any exposed roofing material period, as the cable will be exposed to UV radiation and break down faster, as well as trapping leaves and other foreign matter. I would run the coax cable around under the eaves around the house.

One final thing to mention, is to use outdoor rated cable and connectors as corrosion can be a real issue. Also check your local codes and HOA's to see if they have any restrictions to tall masts mounted on your house.


Fixing the connection on ACCOR PUSHON® R-SERIES Supply Stop Valve I'm still learning since I just bought a house not long ago. I appreciate any help here for the disconnected valve under my sink.

Filtered water is supposed to go through this valve to the fridge(I know fridge has anther filter built in but this is how it's set up when I bought the house). But one day, the tube connecting this valve popped out and water everywhere. It was terrible.

It is not as easy as it looks to re-connect the tube with the pushon valve. It does not fit in the inlet of the valve(how was it working?). I could see one end of the tube was squeezed to do that but I just cant. Even if I could, how do I make sure it's fastened and won't pop out again?

The "tube that connects the connector and the pushon valve" in your picture looks like soft clear vinyl tubing; if it is, that was the cause of the failure.

Your valve has a compression type connection:

and is designed for tubing (copper or poly/plastic) that is fairly rigid rather than soft. The connection utilizes a ferrule:

which I do not see any sign or mention of in your pictures or question. You will likely need to replace that short piece of tubing with a section of tubing that is compatible with both the connector and the valve's compression fitting, like poly tubing:


How to do I calculate how much sand and cement needed for bedding mortar I need to make some bedding mortar for laying coping stones on a brick wall

Ive calculated the volume of mortar needed

12m x 0.41m x 0.03m = 0.1476 m3

I buy cement and sand in 25 kg bags and would use 1-4 cement/sand ratio
So 125kg would be 1 bag of cement to 4 bags of sand

but how to I equate weight with volume ?

An 80 pound bag is about half a cubic foot (sorry, as for metric, you're on your own).

  The finished volume of an 80# bag of Sacrete or Quikrete (pre-mixed cement, sand and gravel) is 0.6 cubic foot (stated on the bag). There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. Dividing 27 cubic feet by the volume of the bag will give you the number of bags you need. –Google


Can I use engineered I joists as studs in a wall? Project: 3m by 6m weekend house, roof 3m high, walls 20cm insulation.

Question: I want build it from lighter/thinner materials, and i want to calculate from how thick materials i can build this I Joist (Picture One) So it would be same strength as 200mm by 50mm
timber stud.
I Joist will be 3m high.

Is there way to calculate thickness of materials for OSB and four Timber studs and how much load it can handle.

This is a bad idea to try and build your own I joists.  Often the building codes will defer to the manufacturers specifications for engineered materials like I joists, engineered beams and also engineered OSB board.  This is done because every manufacturer is different and because these manufacturers generally have actual accredited engineers that are certified and vetted who test these things in a methodical and proper way.

A small shed, on a residential property, is still considered a seperate structure, and as such is subject to your municipalities building codes, zoning requirements, by-laws and building permits.  A review of your plan or an inspection likely will not pass and code enforcement may require you to tear down the structure if they feel it is unsafe.  Inability to comply with code enforcement can result in loss of your occupancy permit for the residence.

Code aside, I think even using engineered I joists for studs wouldn't be the best idea.  While I joists are okay for hanging drywall on a ceiling, a wall tends to have a lot more nails, screws and anchors run into it for everything from pictures, TV's hanging on lags, etc...  With drywall, the screws will be run into the sides of the I joist where they will not damage the OSB in the middle.  Running a nail or screw into the middle of an I joist greatly damages the integrity of the joist, and there would always be the possibility that somebody would attempt this and damage the stud. For a shed I am thinking about possibly trying to hang pegboard on the wall as an example.

Furthermore I can't even imagine how one can safely frame for a window or door with I joists.  What is the proper way to nail the jack and king stud together?  What if the wall is load bearing?  Engineered I joists are tested when they are laid out on a span, not supporting load vertically.

Just use dimensional lumber, or purchase pre fabricated engineered I joists for supporting the load on a floor per the manufacturers specifications.


How to seal the exposed top of glass block windows My basement has some glass block windows, that seem to be improperly (or not-optimally) installed. See picture....

As I understand it, there should has been a perimeter channel attached to framing, and the glass blocks installed into that. As it is, I get a little cold air radiating (possibly leaking from outside) out the top.

I was thinking of using spray foam to cover the top, but I'm not sure how that will affect the gaps between the blocks. I'd like to seal it as best I can, and then possibly use XPS + foam on top.

I wonder if I can cut up a perimeter channel and use some caulk to glue/seal it to the top? I'd have to do it in several pieces (one strip between each set of joists).

Edit - In case it matters, here is the larger view; I might do something a little different where that cold air return duct is.

Buy some anchors and attach them a good few inches up on each side, and across the blocks.  Throw some mortar or a generous amount of glass block adhesive on top of the anchor (you can also screw it into the joists).  Throw a 2x4 firmly on top of mortar so your gap is equivalent to your other gaps.  Then secure the 2x4 (might even think about 2x6 for this installation) to the joists with a few screws on each side.  Caulk any corners or gaps.

This will finish your install and keep the air leak issues.  As it stands your blocks are kind of dangerous right now.  That middle one isn't secured and when these things fall and break... they explode and shards could be in person they explode on.  The anchor and top plate will fix this issue and help fix your air issue too.  (If you still notice any drafting after caulking I suggest smashing some roxul into the area.


What is a chairleg camstud? I am trying to assemble a chair I bought online and cannot find a how-to video for it . The chair leg has a "cam stud" for the 2 screws and the instruction states "make sure the cam studs face out".  I'm not sure what "cam studs" are nor which way "out" is based on the diagram. The chair legs are being installed in the front 2 corners of the chair seat.  Can anyone help with this?

Does your kit contain components that look like these:

Or these:

Note that these both types of these studs have a differing type/size of threading on each end.

For your chair leg application in all likelihood the studs to hold on the legs look like the latter type. These are installed with the lag bolt thread end screwed into the end of the chair leg. Since you have a chair kit the installation holes are probably already pre-drilled into the leg at one end from the side corner. Here is a picture that shows a common usage for chair front legs or table legs.

One way to install the stud into the chair leg is to thread two nuts onto the bolt threaded end of the stud. Then use two wrenches to tighten the two nuts toward each other so that they lock onto the thread. Then use one wrench to screw the lag bolt thread end into the chair leg using one of the nuts as a bolt head. After the stud is screwed into place use the two wrenches to loosen the pair of locked nuts so that they can be removed off the stud.


How much upkeep for portable Tri-Fuel generators A PM site says whole house generators need considerable upkeep:
"After 24 to 48 hours of continuous use, get it serviced, installer ... says. After around 10 days, have a professional change the oil and the filter."
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/a8523/should-you-buy-a-standby-generator-14880060/

My question is: Do portable tri-fuel generators require similarly frequent upkeep?

Note: This answer will be more generalized, than specific to generators. Also, I have a small engine repair and service certification from Briggs and Stratton.

All internal combustion engines will need regular service several systems. The most common of which are:

Lubricants
Air Filter
Fuel Delivery
Ignition

These things needing service will have vastly differing service schedules, depending on things like their duty/use types, sophistication of manufacturing, fuel deliver (carburation v. fuel injection (wet) v. direct fuel injection), type of fuel, age of motor, effectiveness of seals and so on.

For instance, it's not uncommon for a modern, fuel injected car motor, to safely go 5000-7000 miles before needing an oil change, and might go nearly 100k miles on single set of spark plugs (my wife's old CRV).

However, for things like generators that get only intermittent use, these problems follow a different schedule, that will be unique to that motor and schedule of use. Only being used perhaps once a year, makes generators particularly difficult to maintain and diagnose problems, since you may only find it when you need to use the generator. Many fixed installation generators remedy this with a weekly test run cycle, and built in diagnostics.

Liquid fuels like kerosene, gasoline, ethanol, and diesel all have different degrees and problems that can plague them, mainly in storage. Water in fuel, and evaporation of fuel is especially a problem for carbureted motors, which are effectively open systems. Thankfully, this is eliminated (mostly) in fuel injection systems, which are not open to the atmosphere, subject to evaporation.

Moving to a gaseous fuel (propane, natural gas, etc) similarly has much less of a problem (if none at all) with this issue with evaporation and deposition of the heavier components. However, liquid fuels usually provide some degree of lubrication to things like valves, and to a less extent the piston in the block. A gaseous fuel has no/negligible lubrication properties.

TL:DR All engines require service. Gas powered require the least maintenance, but can be more expensive initially.

Personal Suggestion: Go to a fixed installation generator on gaseous fuel, automatic cut-over on power failure, hopefully having automatic diagnostics and a regular self test cycle. Then you just change the air filter and oil when it tells you to.


Furnace Water Drainage from inducer motor My furnace(an amana) seems to be stopping due to too much water in the inducer motor.  If I pull the yellow plug from the motor housing, a good amount of water comes out and then the unit will work again.

After a lot of troubleshooting I noticed something.  There are two drains.  One is up top left near the exhaust exit and the other is at the bottom right.  They drain into a reservoir.  I made it so I could see each drain emptying when it was running.  The one on the bottom right does not drain until the unit is turned off/stopped! This is telling me that it is not clogged(which is what I thought was my problem for some time).

Which seems like a problem.  If the until has to run for too long, then the water fills up and then the inducer motor stops.

Does this seem like it is working right?  Or should it drain the entire time?

Thanks,
Anthony

It sounds like your trap may not have enough height to keep air from being pulled in. I have to make traps that were close to 5" to prevent the pressure from pulling the water out of the trap. Yes they do get dirty and need to be cleaned, but if the trap is holding water it will drain while running, if the trap is not deep enough air is pulled through the trap and water will build up until it is deep enough in the pan or shuts down and gravity pulls it out.


How should I frame around a basement window to allow for drywall finishing? I am working to finish my basement and starting to frame around the windows. The windows in my basement just have some vinyl returns on them and are installed flush with the concrete foundation walls. I would like to box (wrap?) these when we get to drywall without any trim.

When I do my framing—do I frame right up flush to the window so that the drywall can be installed on top of the vinyl returns with an L bead and be completely seamless with the drywall

or...

Do do I leave 1/2 inch gap round for the thickness of the drywall and try to but it up to the existing vinyl return somehow?

Just frame up flush, as you suggested, and let the cornerbead (your "L bead") die into the window.

Good luck!


Will 2x6 cedar be ok for monkey bar rails? I'm planning a build of a back yard jungle gym/mini ninja warrior obstacle course and I'm in a bit of a pickle.

On the one hand, I don't mind spending more for cedar and I prefer the look, however, the availability of dimensional cedar is quite limited.  Whereas PT lumber is easily available in multiple sizes.

One key consideration is whether an 8ft span of 2x6 cedar will hold up to being used as the side rails of a monkey bar since that is the largest board Home Depot and my local lumber yard carries.  I expect kids and adults to be using this structure.

I've reviewed span calculators, but I'm not sure if it's applicable to a point load like this where, for example, 200lbs could be hanging on two beams at a single point in the center.  I'm also not sure if 2x6 cedar is hard/strong enough for this purpose.

In another area of the structure, I will be hanging boards across it like this:

Will an 8ft 2x6 cedar board be sufficient to support an adult?

For one Western Red Cedar 2x6 plank, loaded vertically, attached to bombproof supports at either end:
The estimated sag is about a quarter inch in the center, and the shear is 1.39 MpA.  Materials data gives me an approximate Shear strength of 5.5 MpA, so you're well within limits.
HOWEVER, the weak point will be the attachments. These will need to be rigid in shear and in bending.
As well, you'll need to design the beams each plank is attached to to support the full load.
8 feet is an invitation to overloading.


Mule Tape Size for Pulling 4/0 4/0 2/0 180ft in 2 1/2" conduit I will be pulling 4/0 4/0 2/0 or 4/0 triplex service cable though 2 1/2 in conduit. All straight except at end with sweeps. Likely will put sweeps on after pull.
What size mule tape would be the best to use?
Thanks
Dean

I only use 1” mule tape and poly string for the most part if I am pulling in a larger service using a tugger I will use double braided rope.
I would suggest rope for a diy pull as I have not seen “small spools” of mule tape or poly pull string.
If this is a long pull you would be better off with some pull lube, in the old days we used dawn dish soap but it drys out and if you ever need to get it out of the pipe it can be a pain, today I use poly water,  And other lubes.
A straight pull some one pushing and someone pulling you should not need much strength, the reason I use wider tape is to keep from cutting through gloves and hands AND through conduit I have had small tape cut through a sweep with pvc even with lube.
a rope may be your most cost effective method unless a big box store has smaller spools I buy pull string in buckets that are over a mile and I believe the mule tape 1000’ is a small spool but there may be smaller ones out there. But you can buy 3/8 rope much cheaper.


What type of screws and drill bits should I use to mount a mantel over faux stone? I recently installed Airstone on my fireplace wall. It's a Lowe's product. I guess it would be considered a stone veneer. I am planning to install a mantel. The one I bought has a hanger board that gets mounted the wall, and then the mantel rests on top of it.

My issue is that I'm not sure what type of screws to use and how to drill the pilot holes. There is a Youtube video from Airstone saying it can be drilled (see below). I don't know if I need some type of masonry bit or if an ordinary bit is fine. Is there a good type of screw to use? I need something that will go through the Airstone and into the studs (wood and a stone veneer). The Airstone is 1", the hanger board is 1", and the drywall is 5/8".

Thank you in advance for any advice.

A regular high-speed steel bit will probably cut through the soft faux stone just fine, though it'll dull the bit fairly rapidly. If you have just a few holes to drill I'd go that route.

Otherwise, a masonry bit will also work until you reach the wood. At that point you'd switch to a high-speed steel bit and try not to bung it up on the way through the stone--maybe insert the bit fully before you start spinning it.

The holes in the stone should be the size of the screw thread diameter to prevent undue damage to the face of the stone. The pilot holes in the wood should be slightly smaller than the screw shank.

You want screws that are intended for structural use. Black oxide drywall screws are too brittle. Use gold construction screws or something specifically described as "structural" which are of suitable size and length. Unless your mantel is obscenely heavy, just about any screw #8 and up should do fine.


Code for new flooring over gas lines I am installing new flooring in a condo.
The condo association removed the old floor heating in favor of vent heating.
However, the copper what I assume to be gas lines (or water lines are sticking out of the old floor slightly and I want to cut them flush and install the flooring right over them.
Is there any code I am violating by doing this?

That pipe is already left open and surely not active or charged. Cutting it again will not be a problem, since it is no more than cutting it again slightly lower than what it is already.
If you want to go the safest route, since the floor is being redone anyway, remove enough of the existing floor to cut it below the existing floor to place a self sealing cap over it like Sharkbite (r) or similar brands. Please note, to do this the cut needs to be cleanly done, in order for the seal to be effective.


Should rooms be designed to minimize waste of sheet goods? We are building a new home and I want some guidance on recommendations for design creating minimal wastage and maximum efficiency for the builders.

For example. Are room sizes best divisible by 4 since sheetrock is usually 4 x 8.  Same way with plywood sheets.   Or does this even matter?

If your objective is to optimize the product you receive (the completed house) vs the cost you pay for it by sizing to use full sheets of material -- forget it. The cost of all materials combined doesn't strongly dominate the cost of the project; they'll often sum to around half of the project cost. The panelized materials such as plywood or OSB sheathing, subfloor, and roof deck, and the drywall used throughout, are a small fraction of the project cost. Sizing the project to use whole sheets might literally save dollars or even tens of dollars per room. Other materials such as paint and concrete effectively come in bulk. Still others like electrical wire, drywall joint compound, or roofing shingles can't be reasonably estimated to ensure optimal use of each roll or box anyway. Basically the only thing where standard sizing matters is height: spec most of your rooms to have nominal 8 foot or 9 foot ceilings so that the builder can use off-the-shelf 92-5/8 or 104-5/8 studs. That makes the walls just the right height to fit 4 foot wide drywall (or 4-1/2 foot drywall in the case of 9 foot ceilings). The length of the wall really doesn't matter -- the drywall contractor will use 8, 10, or even 12 foot long panels as he sees fit. Small scraps have a way of being used above doorways or for casing window and passage openings.

A builder will quickly realize that your well-intentioned effort to optimize material usage will actually increase his labor cost; the net savings will be zero (or even negative). On the other hand, if your motivation is to optimize the materials as an eco-friendly  or resource/footprint minimization measure, then you may not mind spending extra on the labor to achieve that goal.

I'd suggest that you not even think about efficiency for the builders, but rather think about efficiency for the life of the building -- its lifetime operating cost. Consider whether you want to incorporate passive solar design ideas which can reduce your heating and cooling needs (and can reduce the up-front cost of the corresponding equipment, too). Consider the advantages (or lack thereof) of specifying upgraded doors or windows. Consider whether to require insulation under your concrete and whether to upgrade the materials and methods for insulating the walls and attic. Consider future-proofing by installing a thoughtful system of conduits at least for low-voltage electronics, and maybe even for your mains wiring.

In summary: builders are much better at optimizing than a homeowner or even an architect could hope to be. Let them look after that, and expend your own limited design time and effort on higher-level things.


Why is my fridge building ice on the outside but not getting cold inside? My fridge is getting cold enough to quickly produce huge amounts of ice (see picture below) despite being fully defrosted (I used a heat gun) but it can't get below 50° F.  Does it matter that all the ice is concentrated on one side/corner and not over the rest of the coils?

If it matters, I spent a solid 2 hours last night fully unclogging a horribly clogged drain hole. I also put an additional fan inside the fridge, trying to circulate more cold air, but it didn't seem to do much.

Does having ice mean my compressor is working? Could it be an issue with my evaporator?  Would  love ideas of things to check!

Edit: my Fridge uses R134A

That is a sure sign that the refrigerant has leaked out. There is just enough left to freeze over the first bit of the coil as the remnants flash vaporize after passing through the expansion valve due to high suction. If a meter set was connected, one would find low high side pressure and high low side pressure.

If it wasn't a high priced refrigerator or is out of warranty, don't bother with a service call, just replace it. Do not attempt to repair it youself unless you have a EPA 608 or 609 license depending on if it is a R410A or R134A unit.


What could cause a ceiling fan to lose rotation speed? I have two identical ceiling fans in my house that were installed around 4 years ago. One no longer rotates as fast as it used to at top speed. At a guess I would say it has lost 30 or 40% of its speed.

All other electrical items in the room and house seem fine and the fan is not making any unusual noises, nor does it seem to be restrained or struggling to spin.

Could anyone suggest what could be causing this?

Build up of friction in bearings could do it. However, that often takes 10 or more years. The cure is to take the fan apart and clean the bearings.

A Failing motor capacitor. will slow the fan. Again this usually happens over many years, but it does happen spontaneously. The cure is to replace the capacitor.


Is it possible to replace just the inside handle of a screen door? I found the inside handle like this today. My housemate and my wife have professed ignorance on how it got that way. As a result of the handle getting cranked about 20 degrees from horizontal, the latch no long allows the door to close all of the way. Would I just be replacing the inside assembly? Inner and outer handle? The entire door?

You can go to places like Home Depot , Lowes, Ace hardware, or any large hardware type store, show them the part a they should have what you need.


Connecting an unattached well house breaker panel, proper grounding I am placing an unattached breaker panel in a well house to be run from a generator. I realize that I need a grounding rod for the ground, but since it does not have a ground for the neutral bar does this need a second grounding rod? I have read several discussions but they only speak of the path going back to a house or transformer. Since there is no path for the neutral to a ground in an unattached building is a # 6 coated wire attached to the panel neutral bar an option. So , by using two ground rods six feet apart one a bare wire to the panel case and the other to the neural bar would this keep me from shorting out my generator and myself?

How to handle this

I'm going to presume that there's a panel here (if not, I'd slap a decent-sized main breaker loadcenter in there, a Siemens P3030B1100CU would be my starting point, and then add the appropriate breaker for the well pump and hook it up), and that we don't have to worry about the generator itself -- it has overcurrent protection in the form of a circuit breaker built in.

As a result, we can simply pull the bonding screw on the loadcenter/panel, and then wire a generator inlet box (locking type, 50A, 120/240V) to it using a 6/3 UF cable such that the hots land on each hot leg of the main breaker, the neutral lands on the main neutral lug, and the ground lands on the main ground lug -- if the panel has no ground bar in it, you will need to add one.  The inlet box will mount to the outside of the shed, by the way (this saves the generator cord from having to be run through a door or window frame).

Once you're done with that, you can then run 6AWG copper from the panel to two driven ground rods, spaced 6' apart, as well as a length of 6AWG copper from the panel to the well casing if the well uses a metal casing.  This takes care of the grounding electrode system.

Once all this is done, you simply take a 50A generator cord, plug it into the generator power receptacle and the inlet, and all should work.  Since things are in a separately derived system configuration, you don't have to fuss with the bonding jumper in your generator at all, and if you want to replace the generator inlet with a permanent feeder in the future, the panel's already configured for that.


Is this legal? And should we use 2 by 8s? I posted a couple of days ago about joists not reaching the end of the wall, and it was only a subsection.
We’ve stripped off all floorboards and this is what we see.

Now the question is, these joists measure as 2"x 4"s, Surely the new ones we put in should be 2"x 8", no?
Not sure how they would fit and I’m not sure why they weren’t originally 2"x 8" either. There’s a good meter between the 2 bottom beams.
Is this common?
What should the span between beams be when laying 2"x 4"s or 2"x 8s"?
See full video with joists taken out here:
https://streamable.com/4hb7w1

What should the span between beams be when laying 2"x 4"s or 2"x 8s"?

If your question is only what should the floor joist spacing be then; if you go with 2"x 8" floor joist    16 "  on center (OC) will be sufficient.
I would not use 2"x 4"s.
If you use 2"x 6"s then i would go 12" OC.
If your question is how should i rebuild this then; I would rip it all out, Bolt rim joists to the concrete wall with anchor's and run the joist from wall to wall (left to right in the photo) hung on the rim joist with Simpson joist hangers and then re-do the plumbing.


Does installing electric heated floors require dedicated electrical? I would like to install electric heated floors throughout a home built in 2008 (In BC, Canada) to replace a forced air furnace system. I am wondering if this project will require running a new set of electrical lines to each of the rooms or whether it'd be possible to sacrifice one of the electric outlets in each area to feed the electric heaters.

Is electric heating a reasonably good long term solution? Most homes I've seen have hot water radiant heat systems instead of electric ones, but that's not an option for an already built home I assume.

Electric resistance heat is a great long-term solution for the electric power supplier; it's usually one of the most expensive heat options for the homeowner to run, barring power subsidies or absurdly cheap power, which happens a few places, but not many. The details will be local, so you'll have to investigate the relative costs of the heat sources you have available. If you have natural gas, I'd be very surprised if electric didn't cost you 3-4 times as much to run, for instance.

In general, you are not only going to need new wires to rooms, you may need upgraded electrical service to the house. Start with "what is the BTU/Hr output of your furnace" and you can work back to kilowatts and amperes required for equivalent heat output.

3412.14 BTU/hr=1 kilowatt. 1 therm (100,000 BTU) = 29.3 KWh (if gas heater was 100% efficient) or that number multiplied by the furnace efficiency (ie, 93% high-eff furnace, 1 therm = 27.25 KWh) - fill in your local prices and furnace efficiency and you'll have a quick idea what it will cost you. For my electric cost of 15 cents/KWh, a therm would have to cost $4.08 to be equivalent to electric - while a therm around here actually costs about $1.48 - unfortunately I don't have a gas line on my road.

Hydronic radiant can be retrofit - options vary depending on construction details, and how much of the house you intend to rip apart - but you'll be similarly inconvenienced to install electric radiant, so that may be a wash.

If you have concrete floors that are not adequately insulated from the ground, radiant may never work right for those floors.

In some cases it may make more sense to install radiant in the walls or ceiling.


silicone caulking at uneven tight tile joints / gap We have uneven joints around the tub and shower wall. How can we best caulk silicone? Is there any tricks or recommended tools? We are worried about the tight spots.

not entirely sure what your concern is, but one tip I would suggest is you can carefully mask areas with painters tape where you don't want caulk so that you can spread caulk more effectively (thouroughly) in the uneven joints.


Inserting a Tee In 1" Pipe for an Air Compressor? I have a copper pipe outside my house that is 1" in diameter (Measured 1.1 inches using a digital caliper) that feeds our house's sprinkler system.

My dad uses his commercial air compressor to clear the sprinkler lines of water for the winter so they don't freeze.

Unfortunately to do this he usually removes the glass pane from the basement window which takes forever. We came up with the idea to cut the copper pipe outside and solder a fitting to the part of the pipe outside.

My question is what kind of tee should I look for that unions 1"-1" copper pipe and leaves a cap-able (When not being used) inlet for the air compressor?

My initial thought was something like a 1" - 1" - 1/2" tee similar to (https://www.amazon.com/Libra-Supply-options-Fitting-Plumbing/dp/B01M1GAH5K/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=1+inch+copper+tee+reducer+ftp&qid=1554238142&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0), but I'm not sure about how this would union with an air compressor hose.

You should consider something like this. These are just pieces I have laying around. All are common, easy to source and inexpensive. The fitting in your link will work as well, you would just follow with a valve and a air tool fitting.

this is another way


How to stop windows from sliding down? About 10 years ago I had all the windows in my apartment replaced.  Four or five years later, when I would open them to insert a fan or an air conditioner, the top window would slide down 6-12 inches in a few of the windows.  Is there anything that I can do to adjust the windows so they don't slide down?

[update]

I got a couple good answers for wooden windows.  Can anything be done with metal?

The counter balance is not working correctly, but repairing this or replacing it is non-trivial.  Instead, you can pickup a device like this that will create enough friction to hold the window in place.  It should be installed between the window and the frame and is a simple DIY job.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_128860-76018-F+2537_0__?productId=3010767


Why does using a dimmer with this ceiling fan and lights cause energy saving bulbs to flicker? At a hotel I manage we purchased 34 ceiling fans with two integrated light sockets that operate on a dimmer all controlled by a remote control. Obviously using a dimmer with fluorescent bulbs won't work as desired, however we only want to use them in either the off or on position.

They work fine when on, however with the switch turned off, when we put a fluorescent energy saving light bulb in, it turns the bulb into almost a strobe light with a very low-intensity flashing. It's not enough to really bother you and you wouldn't notice it much if another light was on, however we had someone complain that it kept them up at night when in a dark room with no other lights. Measuring the other socket with a volt meter with one fluorescent bulb present measures 20V.

When we put two fluorescent bulbs in, it has the same effect, however it alternates between the two and does something like two-three flashes from one, two-three flashes from the other, and continues like that.

However, the strange thing is that when we put a regular bulb in, the voltage on the other side drops to zero. So when we have one regular bulb and one energy saving bulb, neither of them flash at all. Same is true with either one or two regular bulbs.

So basically, what could be causing this (to me) odd behavior? Is this typical for things with dimmers? Is there any way around this so that we can use two fluorescent bulbs? We already have all the bulbs (which were around $10 each) and we're just in the process of replacing the current light fixtures with the fans which are also already paid for.

Note: I'm not an electrician, so any responses will have to be written as basic as possible.

TL;DR: the dimmers aren't switching off completely: they're allowing some current to leak through, which is why you're seeing a voltage across the CFL.  A different make of bulb may behave better with the leakage current that you're getting.  Or perhaps a different brand of fan (if you haven't installed them all already).

I do know that operating CFLs in those sort of conditions will shorten their lives considerably, so you might actually be cheaper for you to use incandescents instead (a quick calculation says about 12 kWh per year for a 60 W bulb).

Read on for the technical explanation...

This is a circuit diagram of the innards of your fans:

The voltage across the bulbs, Vb is determined by the formula:

Vb = Vin * Rbulb / (Rdimmer + Rbulb)

where:

Vin is the mains voltage (120Vac or 240Vac depending on country).
Rbulb is the resistance across the bulb or bulbs.
Rdimmer is the resistance across the dimmer.

The dimmer is a solid-state electronic circuit, so it has a very high effective resistance -- 10s of megohms is not unreasonable.  Ditto for the control circuitry in the CFL.  An incandescent bulb is a simple piece of resistive wire; a 60 W / 120 V bulb will have a resistance of 240 ohms.

Now, suppose the dimmer has a resistance of 50 MOhms and the CFL has a resistance of 10 MOhms; plugging the numbers into the equation above gives you 20 V across the bulb.  OTOH, the voltage across a 60 W incandescent bulb will be about 600 microVolts, nowhere near enough to make the bulb glow.

If you have two bulbs in the light fixture, the resistance, R, of the two in parallel is given by:

R = R1*R2/(R1 + R2)

So if you have a CFL and an incandescent installed, the effective resistance is going to be very close to that of the incandescent alone:

R = 10,000,000 * 240 / (10,000,000 + 240) = 239.99 Ohms

Again, not enough to turn on either bulb.

With two incandescent bulbs, the effective resistance is half that of a single incandescent, so you have half the voltage across them.

The flickering you see with two CFLs is because the light you see is basically a high-voltage spark through the tube.  The CFL contains circuitry to amplify the incoming voltage up to the point where the spark can occur.  Under normal circumstances, the input voltage is enough to cause this spark 100 or 120 times per second (depending on mains frequency), which is far too frequent for the human eye to notice.  With the reduced input voltage, it takes longer to reach the required voltage, so you notice the flicker.  No two bulbs will be exactly identical, so they'll flicker at different rates and take different times to recover between discharges.


Lard as release agent? So I’m learning how to make concrete pavers with this youtube video.

He mentions that he uses lard as a release agent, so he brushes that into the mold. He also suggests cooking oil or motor oil for colder temperatures.

He also mentions that any type of wood will work, even though he uses laminated wood.

My question: for regular wood, is lard a good release agent? I live in the Caribbean, so there’s no cold temperature.

The lard will work fine. The laminated wood would give you  smoother sides and bottom.


Solution for desk chair on an uneven floor Under my desk in the office is an uneven expansion joint on the floor with a thin metal plate. An average desk chair with 2 inch (5cm) wheels sticks at the joint or needs some velocity to roll over it.

Patching the joint would be very expensive, because of a glued carpet on both sides, which would have to be changed in the whole office. So we are looking for other alternatives.

We have tried it with 3 inch (7.5cm) rollerblade wheels with a slightly better experience. But changing directions with these higher wheels is less comfortable and the chairs are not constructed for the slightly greater forces (they are bending on the connection points for the wheels on turning).

Now, we are thinking on testing 2.5 inch double wheels. Another option would be a chair mat for hard floors. But somebody told us, these would not survive very long on the joint.

Has anyone experience with a problem like this and solved it?

I would think that the plastic chair mat would work well if you used it in conjunction with some type of padding under it. A piece of short pile rubber backed carpet that was trimmed to the same size as the chair mat would bridge the underlying uneven joining strip.

In my work lab I use these plastic chair mats to cover the whole carpeted floor (four mats laid side by side / end to end). They rest in a short pile carpet and have been in use for 12 years now. Only in the last 3-4 months has one started to crack.

If you get the type of clear plastic mats that are made from a flexible plastic they will hold up longer than the very hard dense plastic style.