Can you use a hopper gun to spray finishing plaster? I'm intrigued by spray plastering. It seems that most people use machines like this, costing thousands, to spray finish plaster: http://www.pftplasteringmachines.com/product/pft-ritmo-plastering-machines.

Hopper guns (like this: http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Hopper-Guns/SharpShooter-20-Hopper.html) seem to be only used to apply textured finishes and external render.

Are hopper guns not suitable for applying finish plaster (provided you rule and trowel afterwards, obviously)? If not, why not?

No. A couple weeks ago when i was drywall mudding my room I thought of the idea, and i decided to try and find out immediately rather than ask the internet and wait. I don't recommend trying.

First there were immediate delivery problems, hand tools suddenly starts looking alot more practical. The plaster is far too thick & heavy for the gun to shoot. When it does shoot some, its random spurts of gobs and most of it didn't make it from the gun to the wall. I may have fared better if i had a conventional spray gun (high pressure low volume), i had a common low pressure high volume gun.

Second problem was nearly as immediate, and could make you cry. Paint guns are designed to use paint, that if you leave in the gun it doesn't dry and clog the gun in 20-30 minutes. Paint also has solvents that clear the gun for you if it did dry in the gun. Plaster sets in about 30, and there really isn't a solvent to make dried set plaster go away. So basically you have to mix, spray and clean it all out of the gun in 30 minutes, or you won't have a functional paint gun anymore. It didn't make me cry because I had a feeling my gun will break and i had one of those so-inexpensive-its-nearly-disposable harbor freight paint guns.

If you use a slower setting joint compound it wouldn't ruin the gun, but it won't spray on the wall like paint either.

IF you have a conventional high pressure, low volume paint gun though, maybe lots of pressure is all you need to make it work. Slower setting compound will give you ample time to clean it all out before it sets/dries.


I think there might be a wasp's nest in my garage or in its walls, how can I tell? I think there might be a wasp's nest in my family's garage or in its walls. However, I don't know for sure. Here are the facts;

For the past three days in a row (and a few others over the past two weeks), I've opened the garage door in the morning and a wasp flew out of it.
We generally leave the garage door open throughout the day to keep it cool, but we close it at night.
I sometimes see a wasp hover around the garage door.
There are two garbage cans next to the garage.
I have not seen more than one wasp at a time inside the garage.
We have a cat (and therefore pet food) in the garage.

Given this information, how can I be sure of whether or not there is a wasp's nest inside the house or its walls? Is it possible that a wasp entered through the open door and got trapped overnight multiple times? My family seems to think so but I'm not so sure.

Yes, you might have one in there.  In my area at least, there are two common types that build nests around the house, mud daubers and paper wasps.  The good news is that while both sting, neither are particularly aggressive the way hornets are.
Be careful, however, if you are allergic to bee, hornet, or wasp stings!!
I'd follow one around until you see it hitting the nest.  Mud daubers will often make a characteristic high-pitched buzzing sound as they form the mud into their nest.  They can be just about anywhere though.
Paper wasps seem to prefer high spots and corners.
Locate the nest, spray with wasp insecticide, clean up the mess after they leave or die, and then take steps to plug the opening that they are using to get it.


240v outlet not delivering 240 volts To spare you all the long version of my two week nightmare: bought a house built in 1976. Hooked up dryer, switched to 3 prong plug. Dryer ran fine, started to smell like burning plastic until it stopped running altogether. Dryer is fine, power cable apparently gave out. New power cable, dryer comes on, but no heat. It turns out the problem is really somewhere in the electrical.

I have a cheap voltmeter that only gives four readings 120, 240, 277, and over 400.

This morning I measured each leg at the receptacle for 120v to ground. Together, both hots only measured 120v, which makes no sense to anybody I've asked. At the dryer, each hot to neutral read the same 120v, but together give no reading.

Looking at the breaker each hot to neutral is 120v, and together the voltmeter says 277v. I noticed the breaker was a 40 amp which probably contributed to this mess. I replaced it with a 30 amp and the readings stayed the same. All of my double pole breakers give the reading of 277v. I also replaced the tired-looking receptacle that was probably original to the house on the hopes that maybe it was the cause to the problem. All readings were the same.

Now that I'm home from work, I have different readings at the dryer and the outlet. One hot says 120v to ground and the other gives no readings at all. Both hots together are also 0. Nothing has changed between this and my earlier reading. I was very careful switching the breaker out because I don't want to die and don't want to cause another problem somewhere else.

What's going on? Who am I? What dark force is keeping me from doing laundry?

I'm willing to guess that my five dollar probe isn't known for its accuracy. On the off chance my house is getting 277v, what would that mean for my appliances and whether or not my house is going to burn down?

I tested everything again this morning, and both legs read 120 to ground, and I know that one leg wasn't doing that eight hours before. Clearly the line from box to receptacle is doing something it shouldn't. Luckily both dryer and breaker box are in my garage and I can follow the cable up from the box, across the unfinished joists, and into the drywall behind the dryer. I don't have to cave in several walls around the house to get to anything. Is this something an amateur can fix with the right materials and the help of other amateurs that know what 240v feels like?

Well, first of all...you probably didn't have an actual 277volts.  What you had is a cheap meter.  I have seen all kinds of whacky voltage readings from the $5 harbor freight meters I have laying around.

The only place one sees something other than 120 or 240 volts in a "normal" residential setting is the very rare "3 phase power".  The vast majority of homes do not have any 3 phase power available.  It has to be run to the house specifically as an unusual setup.  When this exists in a home it would add "208V" to the list of possible voltages.  Again, very rare and probably not at your house.

The only place you would see a real 277V is in a big factory. It is normally used for HUGE machines such as big welders and bigger shop equipment than you have probably seen before.  Normal DIY shop equipment runs on 120V.  Big shop equipment runs on 240V.  HUGE shop equipment requires 3 phase connection with the 208V "wye 3 phase" mentioned above.  It is extremely rare in a house.  The 277V delta 3 phase would never be seen in a house, and only rarely in any commercial building you have been in.  It is typical only in large factories.

Now as for what's probably wrong...you probably have a loose connection or a broken wire on one side of your 220 connection.  This would give you 0v between the two hots, but still 120 from 1 hot to neutral.

As for how to fix it?  Hire an electrician.  Could you fix it yourself?  maybe.  Could you burn your house down?  maybe.  Could you sleep at night after messing with it yourself?  only just maybe.  Hire a professional for anything that is a combination of dangerous and slightly outside your comfort zone.


Can I somehow wire my generator to my power pole? I have a power pole that has a 200 amp breaker before it enters my house and a 30 amp (240) breaker for my well. Again, both are outside before the electricity enters my 200 amp house box. Is there a type of transfer switch that will work at the pole with my generator? Any help or ideas are much appreciated. I am obviously not an electrician so keep it simple. Thanks

Yes, absolutely. A 200A service rated transfer switch is exactly what you need. Most are outdoor rated so it can be placed right at the pole with the service equipment.

This switch needs to be matched with the generator you buy so it is not something you can just run out and get. Also, the generator must be able to handle the average load of your home since it will start automatically during an outage, so everything that is on at the time will be part of the load when the genset starts.

This is NOT something for a casual DIYer so please contact an electrician for exact details about your specific job.


What do I need to know before selecting and installing a cat/pet door in a door? We want to (finally) install a pet door for our cat. It will most likely be a model that will install in the laundry room door, the optimal location for it in our house. This brings me to my first issue: The laundry room door in the winter is on the side of the house that gets the most wind and rain. So we need a pet door that the cat can use and won't let in the cold wind and rain in the winter.

What kind of door is best in this situation? Should I go with an electronic model? Where is the optimal position to place the door? What else do I need to know that I didn't ask?

Questions you need to answer:

Does your cat fit? we ended up buying a small dog door for our enormous cat.
Can your cat figure out how to go through the door? Ours eventually was able to get through, but would bolt in/out because his tail would get caught otherwise. Some cats never figure out the flap-kind. Try it out in a local store if they'll let you (bring food as encouragement).
Do you mind other cats coming in through the door, too? If you do, you can get some assistance from the proximity-sensing collars, but your cat can still lead other cats inside if s/he wants.

Every cat door is going to leak wind somewhat, except the super high-end powered ones. Rain/snow can be mitigated by building a hood around the exterior of the door if you're handy; I haven't seen a product for this but that doesn't mean it's not out there.

You may be able to get away with simply having an extra doormat on the inside of the door, and keeping the laundry room door closed. Yeah, it'll be colder in there...the price of some extra sleep at night.


Run cables through ceiling into attic I would like to install a wired security camera box in a closet and run the cables up into the attic to the individual cameras. How should the cables penetrate the drywall ceiling? I would like the install to look polished, minimise the access of creepy crawlies from the attic into the main house and allow for the addition of more cables in the future. The best I've been able to dream up is a short length of PVC pipe inserted in a corner of the ceiling, that gets stuffed with fiberglass insulation after running the cables, but that seems inelegant. Any better ideas?

Replace "Pipe" with "Conduit" and "Fiberglass insulation" with "duct seal" (note: the electrical conduit kind, not the air duct kind) and put a couple of bell-end fittings on the ends to make it nice (Or just ream the sharp corners off the inside of the cut ends really well to be inexpensive) and you have a normal workmanlike method of achieving your goal.
It will look more polished if the conduit extends all the way into the security camera box, rather than just poking through the ceiling above the box.


Repair roof flashing I’m not sure what material my roof flashing is except that it is a metal. It started out a whitish or silver color and over the last 10 years has slowly rusted until I’ve finally noticed it. Shame on me.

I don’t believe it is rusted through but it is rusted bad. I got up there and began sanding with  wire brush and various grades of sand paper and under the rust is black. I don’t know if that’s black rust or if the rust/I made it through some coating.
 I’m trying to figure out if there is an alternative to replacing it.

I’ve sprayed a small portion with rustoleum. The kind that coverts rust. Is this a legitimate way to preserve what’s left of my flashing? What should I be mindful of if I use this technique. I sanded it down the best I could. Even got a dremel tool. Rinsed it with soap and water. Hoping I washed it well enough, And depended on the rustoleum to do the rest.

Is this viable? Is there a way to tell if I prepped well enough and the paint is working? Or is there no way to tell until the flashing rust through and destroys?

Q

The black at the top is the section I did after sanding.

Your flashing is probably galvanized steel. They last a fairly long while, but they do rust eventually. They're usually replaced when the roofing is replaced. It's not necessarily a leak concern unless they're so severely rusted as to be collapsing. I don't recommend attempting to refinish steel flashing. The benefit just isn't there and you'd almost need to remove it to do a thorough job anyway. If it's just an appearance issue you can purchase galvanized paint (or just use gray).

It's not difficult to replace a flashing, but you have to have a basic understanding of roofing techniques. You lift each row of shingles gently, releasing the tar strips, and pull the nails below. When you have enough shingles removed you can lift the flashing off and install a new one. Shingles are reinstalled or replaced. It's best done on a slightly warm day when the roof is in the shade.


How do I install this flush mount ceiling light fixture? I bought a new flushmount ceiling light fixture but no instructions came with it and I have never done this before, so I need some guidance please. First of all here are all the pieces that came with it:

I tried to install B to the ceiling junction box using screws D but they were way too long and I couldn't get them flush with B. They touched the junction box with still an inch to screw. Is it normal that screws D are not flush with B? Should I cut screws D or install B using screws C?

In either case what would be the other screws used for?

Also, nuts E were attached to screws D when I opened up the package.

I am also not sure about all the nuts and washers attached to piece A. I don't know between which pieces they have to be.

Not in the pictures are obvious things like the light glass and the piece that attaches it.

There is no ground wire in my ceiling junction box. Only white and black wires. I think I only have to attach the copper ground wire of the piece on the 2nd picture to the green screw, but I am not sure.

Before you start, make sure the power to the fixture is off (not just at the switch) and, if possible, confirm with a non-contact tester (a few bucks at a hardware store).

D are the screws that need to be put through B, which is the bracket that will be attached to the ceiling box to hold up the fixture.

To see which holes, align the bracket with the holes in the fixture base. Thread screws D through the back of the bracket so the threaded ends stick out front. Which side of the bracket is the back depends on the ceiling box and whether you need the offset on the bracket sticking down or up. (It often doesn't matter.)

C are the screws that hold the bracket B to the ceiling box. Once the bracket is installed, you can connect the wires on the fixture to the wires in the ceiling box (including the ground wire to the green screw on the bracket).

Place the fixture against the ceiling with the threaded ends of D sticking through the holes. Attach with the nuts E.

The threaded tube on A is screwed into the center of the fixture, the nut is then tightened down the tube to the fixture.  The remaining parts are removed. After bulbs are installed, the globe is put on, followed by the soft washer, the hard washer and the next nut. Don't overtighten or you can crack the globe. Then the decorative cap is put on and then the ball finial.


How do I add grip to concrete sealer after it is already applied? Last fall, we had H&C Colortop Solvent Based Concreat Sealer 250 applied to a textured concrete driveway and walkway. It look amazingly better and have gotten many complements from the neighbors, but now we are finding out that when it is even slightly moist, it gets incredibly slick. At times, it is almost like walking on ice. What is the best way to add grip to this surface?

You'll probably need to reapply the product (or another compatible sealer) and apply grit to it as an admix.


How 3 way smart switch works? Here is the screenshot of leviton 3 way smart switch ( primary and secondary remote switch) wiring diagram.
For non-smart 3 way switch wiring, it is just mechanical connections in the switch which closes and opens path when we turn on and off switch manually. I understand how current flows.
But when it comes to smart 3 way switches, I am trying to understand how communication happens between both switches and how current flows through traveller wires. I am basically trying to understand where smartness comes from.
1) Do smart switches have internal logic circuit ?
2) Can 3 way smart switches be operated if wifi is down - just like manual 3 way switches ? If yes, how does current flows in 4 different states of both switches ( on/on, off/off, on/off and off/on)
3) Wire in the diagram which connects YL/RD is always hot ?
4) Red wire from main switch (on right side) is directly connected with black wire of load. How would this allow lights to be controlled by both switches ?

The Red/Yellow wire is a comms wire in this case
I would not expect the Red/Yellow wire to be a 120VAC always hot here; instead, it's some sort of Leviton-specific control signal between the master and the remotes.  (It may be pulled to a DC voltage of some sort, but does not supply any significant amount of power on its own, as the matching DD0SR-DL remote requires an always-hot in order to power its internal circuitry and LED indicators.)
No, the wifi being down won't break your smart switch
As a result of this approach, the remote switches in your multi-way switch complex will still operate when the master switch is not connected to a wireless network.
Theory of operation
The remote sends signals to the master over the red/yellow wire that tell the master "I got pushed" (or what button was pushed on the remote for more complicated remotes), and these are interpreted by the internal processor in the master switch to determine what happened at the remote switch location.  Once master switch's processor knows what input the remote switch received, it can then adjust the light accordingly using its own control means, whether it be a relay for a switch or a solid-state TRIAC for a dimmer.  The processor may also send signals back to the remote to set indication LEDs on the remote on or off; of course, this functionality depends on which remote you are using.


If popcorn ceiling contains asbestos, then does it mean it's made out of vermiculite? Since the popcorn ceiling in older houses often contains asbestos, I wonder if this is because the "popcorn" is vermiculite which often contains asbestos naturally? Or did they purposefully added asbestos in old formulations?
I hear the newer non-asbestos containing popcorn ceilings are made out of Styrofoam or paper based material, but this doesn't tell me what the asbestos containing ceilings are made out of, especially the "popcorn".
Thanks

Vermiculite itself has not been shown to be a health problem or contain asbestos. However, some vermiculite insulation contained asbestos fibers due to it being extracted from a mine in Montana that had a natural deposit of asbestos which contaminated the Vermiculite. If used for popcorn ceiling, the asbestos wasn't purposely added but could have been left over from the Vermiculite mined in Montana.


Running ethernet between floors Internet comes through in the basement (semi-basement), so, all life relating to computers and such grew around that, but it's started to be more trouble than it's worth. The house has three levels : the semi-basement, main floor, and upstairs. I want to be able to run a line up through the walls on the basement and have it exit neatly in the room above two floors upstairs.

Is this feasible getting anything to go through two floors/wall like that? If I want it done professionally what contractor type generally does it? Electrician or someone else?

Ethernet cable comes in many varieties. For now, let's assume you are talking about Cat5e 4-pair cable. Anyone can run it, but electricians are experts at snaking wires through walls and may be the best (even if not the cheapest) choice. But any contractor or handyman who has some experience doing it can do it safely, as long as they keep away from the regular electric wiring.

Most (I can't say necessarily "all") of the issues with electrical wiring do not apply because the voltage & current are much less dangerous than with household AC wiring. But the tricks & techniques are the same. I gave my electrician a short course in Ethernet cabling years ago because he knew how to run the cable but didn't know anything about the ends.

I highly recommend that the cables be terminated with jacks. I have seen many installations, including by "professional" installers, that terminated with a cable coming out of a whole in the wall and plugging directly into a router or other device. This is in my opinion, unprofessional (who wants a wire coming out of a hole in the wall?) but more importantly if the end of the cable ever goes bad (and it will, the day of a big deadline) you have to crimp on a new connector. Properly installed jacks rarely go bad and if the cable from a jack to a device goes bad you toss it and plug in another one.

Unlike regular electrical wiring, Ethernet cabling can use box eliminators instead of full electrical boxes, though if you have boxes available (e.g., from previous projects but without any live electrical wires inside them), you can use those too. If you have existing old phone wiring that you no longer need, then you MIGHT be able to use it to pull new Ethernet cables through the walls, but keep in mind that telephone wiring (especially residential) is often wired in a daisy-chain fashion while each Ethernet connection will normally need its own home run.


Penetrating walls with two cables I am planning to run both coaxial and cat5e cables from my basement to my (finished) attic, along the outside of the house. I'm trying to figure out the best practice.

If it were a single cable, I think I would just drill a hole through the wall, feed the cable through (taking care to leave a 3" turning radius on the cable run), protect the cable from the aluminum siding with a "mushroom" bushing, and seal it up with silicone.

But I'm reluctant to do the same thing for another cable right next to it.  I thought maybe a slightly larger hole with a slightly larger bushing could accommodate both cables, but I don't know if such bushings exist.

Another option I've seen is to drill a 1" hole, run PVC conduit through the wall, and attach an LB box on the outside.  Sounds good, but what seals the opening on the inlet side where I'll be inserting the cables?  Or does this commit me to using conduit for the whole run?

I would consider putting this type of box at the soffit where the outside wall meets the roof and drill at an angle into the attic space assuming your attic is accessible.  Then fish the interior wall.

You could also use PVC conduit which is paintable and strap it good as it will warp.


What kind of electrical outlet is this, and how do I replace it? I have an electrical outlet which hasn't been reliable (the bottom one doesn't always have power unless you jiggle the plug), so I want to change it. I've changed a few plain outlets, but I found something new (to me!) when I went to remove it:

The wires run into the back of the box, as well as attach to the side. What is this called, and how do I remove them?

The holes in the back accept straight wire and are electrically connected directly to the screws on the side.  The holes are a newer connection method while the screws are more traditional.  Tightening the screws presses contacts against the wires in the holes and holds them in place.

In this case, you have a feed wire going to one and then continuing on to another place from the second.  By the electrical code (at least in Ontario), you're not allowed to do this.  You must connect the feed to the branch and to a short "stub" wire with a marette and then connect that stub wire to your outlet (either at the screw or through the hole in the back).  Some people take short-cuts, however, and connect it this way to avoid the marettes.

Aside from that, I'll note that you have a "split circuit" outlet here.  The top and bottom outlets are on different circuits, perhaps because it's a kitchen outlet and thus they must be split circuit (by the electrical code of Ontario, anyway -- your mileage may vary) or because one outlet (with the red wire) is "switched" by some wall switch.  Make sure you break off the connector tabs between the two sockets on the new outlet so you don't accidentally short the two circuits together.

EDIT: As pointed out by @MichaelKaras, some outlets don't bind the straight-in wires with the screws but have spring-loaded clips that hold the wire and are released by inserting a small screwdriver into the square opening just above the hole.

EDIT: @MPelletier makes a great comment: US multi-wire circuits like that require either a double breaker or that the two breakers be yoked together so that you can't only turn off one. You might consider fixing the breaker box wiring for safety purposes.  That's true in Canada as well.


Is my leaky faucet missing a valve seat? I have a standard two-handle faucet in my shower. I noticed a drip from the faucet, and decided to repair this. The rubber seal on the hot water side was completely ruined, so I figured this was the problem. I replaced the stem, which improved the situation but did not seem to cure it.

I then learned that a damaged valve seat can also cause leaks. When I looked into this, it seemed that I do not have a valve seat on the hot side (as compared to the cold side). Is this correct?

That being said, I also do not see any threads to install a valve seat now. So maybe this is normal? Or maybe it is just some kind of "flat" seat?

I'd really appreciate some advice how to proceed.

Faucet (note that hot / cold are reversed from standard set - with hot on right hand side)

Hot water side (missing valve seat?)

Cold water side (appears to have valve seat)

EDIT
The only marking I see anywhere is "Jameco Canada". But that is on the handle cover plate, so I am not sure that is actually part of the faucet. (You can actually partially see this marking in the "hot water" photo above.)

As requested, adding a couple of photos:

Handles

Stems (matching replacement part was labelled Jameco 1100 hot)
broken on left and replacement on right

The valve seats ended up having the keyed portion very deep-set, which made it very hard to notice originally:

There is a seat there on the hot side, unfortunately it has been ground flat. Most (not all) seats have an internal hex shape which facilitates removal with a seat wrench (I cannot tell from your pics if yours does).

You need to pull that seat out and change it. Another (less optimal) alternative would be to "grind and dress" the existing seat, in place. This sometimes works OK and sometimes it does not, and requires a special seat grinder/dresser tool.

Found this image of Jameco tub/shower seats (hex, not square, hole to remove with wrench)


Led light strip flashing I've had my led tape lighting under cabinet lighting for 3 years & it has just in the past week begun to flash on & off when it's turned on. It stops flashing after a few minutes. What could be the problem? I've already checked the strips & connectors & they all work fine. I'm thinking it might be in the connection of the on/off switch. It is plugged into an outlet inside my cabinet.

it's not a connection issue, those don't get better over time. your driver is failing because the capacitors in it are drying out. this will get worse sooner than later.

As the LED strip warms, it uses more current. To supply more current, the driver increases its output voltage. When the voltage increases, a cap of a given capacity stores more energy. When the voltage catches up with demand, the flickering stops. Note that higher voltages tend to heat the capacitors and cause them to age even faster; a run-away cycle you're in the early stages of.


Does all wood glue need to be removed from a cement floor to use thinset to seat ceramic tile? Does all wood glue need to be removed from a cement floor to use thinset to seat ceramic tile? We've chiseled it smooth with an air tool. If the old wood cement was water-based will thinset set?

I was mixing thinset on my porch last year and some dropped on the cement.  My son started wiping it up and I said "don't bother" and he was a bit surprised.  Went to the porch a week later with a putty knife and popped the thinset off with a few taps of a hammer on the putty knife.  Moral of the story being thinset kind of binds to concrete but not really.  It "sticks" and if you use some bonding agents it might do a little better than stick.  But it doesn't "bond" to cured concrete.

Another example is in my area a lot of bathrooms were poured concrete over subfloor - about an inch - then thinset and tile.  I have demo'ed 50-100 of these bathrooms.  I just tap a hammer along the tiles like I am beating a drum.  The vibrations will cause the thinset to "unstick" and I can have an average bathroom floor detiled and dethinsetted in 2 hours while leaving the original concrete in almost perfect condition.

So whether you husband is applying the thinset to the concrete or concrete with a little wood glue on top, he should expect the same amount of "stick".  The only way I could see the wood glue interfering is if it were still loose or became loose during the install, and even then this doesn't seem to be a huge obstacle.  Thinset doesn't need to have a permanent bind to the subfloor to perform well.  In fact if it did it may perform worse and crack at certain points.  The important thing is the thinset binding with itself.


How should I power 6 30W (30-36v 1.05A) LEDs from the mains? Was reading about transformers, so basically, which transformer will be optimum, could i get a 36-30v one and not worry about resistors?

You need more than a "transformer" - you require a DC power supply for most bare LEDs. A transformer is only part of such a supply.

If you are running the LEDs in parallel, resistors are essential - otherwise one unit will end up with "more of the current" and die from it. LEDs are very sensitive to and require precise control of current - the voltage can and does vary. Resistors are a crude way to even this out - and I do mean crude. The resistors and supply voltage need to be chosen so that if an LED is operating at 30V (or 29 if you are the type of pessimist that designs for trouble) it is limited to no more than 1.05 amps; but any LED unit may be operating as high as 36V, and it will not get 1.05 amps with the aforementioned resistor - but you can't "fine tune" the resistors as operating voltage will vary with LED temperature, among other things.

A better (electrically) arrangement is to provide 1.05 (or 1.00-1.04 for some safety factor) amps at 180-216 volts (or 90-108 volts, in two separate supplies, or 60-72 in 3 separate supplies, or 30-36 in 6 separate supplies) with a supply that precisely controls the current and lets the voltage land where it needs to land (variable with temperature, particular individual units of the the LED, etc.) Unsurprisingly, such circuits and the components to build them have become more common as LED lighting has become more common.

If you are electrically/electronically unsophisticated, buying something to suit your needs is more likely to work correctly and cost you less in the long run than building it, unless building it is your route to becoming more sophisticated, and cost is not an object.

(as an aside, the proper thermal design/management is often as much, or more of a challenge in building an effective LED light from bare components as the electrical supply.)


Installing flooring in bathroom and new toilet new homeowner here that decided to take on too many projects while moving in!  One of our projects is installing new "peel-and-stick" laminate tiles from Home Depot and are 2mm thick.  We are planning on installing the tile on top of the existing linoleum flooring.  My question has to do with installing the toilet wax ring.  The current flange on the floor was installed on top of the linoleum flooring.

Will the additional 2mm on top of the existing floor warrant a taller wax ring?  Should we replace the flange in the floor and install the new one (the current one is busted, I bought a metal flange to put over it already) on top of the new flooring?  Just wondering what the proper procedure for this is.  Thanks in advance!

Is your new flange one of the metal repair flanges that attaches to the old one? If so this will make up any difference in height. When I set a toilet I work the new wax into the ring on the toilet so it seals. When I place the toilet on the flange I check that the toilet has a space before pushing down as long as there is a small gap the wax ring will seal, if the toilet sits on the floor I pull the toilet up and add some wax I normally keep a very cheap wax ring no flange to add to a wax ring but vinyl usually is not thick enough to cause a problem


Hypothetical: building an free-standing cabinet wall My wife and I were talking about various methods of adding cabinets in our basement. There are currently 1x2s spaced on 4' centers supporting drywall where we would put the bank of cabinets. The spam is approximately 12 feet, with five upper cabinets.
One of our clever ideas (or dangerously daft) was, quite frankly, to avoid permitting and inspection by building a freestanding stud wall with a short platform base for the lower cabinets so they sit above the vinyl tiles. They're heavy cabinets and fit the space exactly, so we're theorizing they wouldn't move due to both weight and friction. That is our minor concern.
Our major concern is whether the weight of the top cabinets would eventually cause it to lean.

The non-engineering-minded-enthusiastic-theorists in us have determined this to be pretty sound. The responsible-adult-minded-pragmatists in us say it's a really bad idea and we should just tie the thing in properly and be done with it.

Thoughts? Condemnations? Guffaws?

Thanks in advance!

A lot of the strength of a wall comes from it being anchored at both the top and bottom. If you only have it anchored at the bottom, your concern that the wall would lean or fail entirely is well-founded. Building a false wall is not a terrible idea, it just needs to be built correctly to handle the expected load. You could also attach directly to the (presumably) concrete block walls using appropriate fasteners and methods.

I would double check that you would even need permits and an inspection. Cabinet installation is not something that usually does, even in basements.


What is this technique of joining wood called? I'm hoping someone can tell me a couple things about how the clipboard pictured below was made. It appears to be three pieces of wood (the same kind of wood), each stained separately, and then joined together.

First, does this technique have a specific name?

Second, do you know how the pieces are joined? It is very sturdy despite how thin the wood is.

They are joined...with wood glue. No, seriously...it actually is "stronger than wood". Bandsawn lamination is about as close as you'll get for a "specific name", though it could also be done with a router and templates. Or a CNC router, for that matter, these days.

The efficient approach will result in this one and a dark one with a light section, by sawing in stacks, then shuffling. This also has veneer strips along the glueline.


How to test dryer components My dryer stopped heating.  It turns on and spins but that's about it

Samsung Dryer - Model DV42H5000EW/A3

I have found this article which has helped to disassemble and troubleshoot but I still have a few questions. (link)

I'm trying to test the heating element with an OHM tester however I don't know how to interpret the results, if the 8-9 reading means its good or bad?

FYI the meter reads 1 when not touching anything

Then I hook it up to the heating element and it reads 8 or 9

Furthermore in the link they talk about

  Check the thermostat and the high limit cut off fuse to be sure those
  components are not causing the dryer to not heat

any ideas how to check those 2 components?

Here are the readings from the other 2 components

the thermostat (reading 0, maybe this is the bad piece!)

this is the "high limit", it reads 1 but as mentioned above the meter reads 1 when nothing is touching it (so it doesnt change when touching it to this component!)

It would be normal to see a few ohms of resistance in a cold heater coil. So your reading of 8 or 9 ohms is not unrealistic and probably indicates that the heater element is not burned to an open circuit.

To check the other components you will have to locate them in your dryer by using common sense and any electrical diagram you can find for your dryer. Often times such diagram is located pasted onto some panel of the dryer unit.

The most common wiring for a dryer is that the thermostat and high temperature cutout fuse are wired in series with the heater element and so you may be able to find them by tracing the wires that connect to the heater element. If you use your OHM tester you should be able to place your probes across each of these and read a low reading of just an ohm or two (not more) for each one. If it shows a high reading or an open circuit then you have located the faulty component.

Be aware that there is a good probability that the dryer may have overheated and caused one or the other of the thermostat or the high temperature cutout to go to open circuit. After you replace the faulty component it will be necessary to determine why the dryer may have overheated in the first place. It could be a vent line that got crushed, a vent line clogged up with lint, an outside vent screen jammed with lint or even a snow bank that blocked off the vent outlet.

Update:

The 000 reading for the thermostat indicates that the thermostat is a closed switch at room temperature and is a strong indication that this component is OK.

Your meter appears to read a 1 in the left most digit when the meter is detecting an open circuit. The fact that you do not see any change in the reading when you check across the high temperature cutout indicates that this is the faulty component. Something caused the cutout to open circuit and this is then causing the heater coils to not get any current to create heat.

If you feel that the high temperature cutout has opened up due to age or a one time overheating event then it should be OK to replace it with a new one and start using the dryer again.

I know you said in comments that the vent is clear. Do be aware that the overheating event could also have been caused by a lint capture screen in the dryer being clogged up and not being cleaned before every load is started.

There is also the possibility that if you have a bad lint screen in the dryer or were operating without one in place that lint can build up right inside the dryer air flow path and cause overheating even though the venting may be fine. So be sure to check the air path inside the dryer as well.


How can I best physically box in my internet router I have a router standing in a corner on the floor. There are a few wires lying on the floor. Its ugly, it collects a lot of dust and when children are visiting they get in and mess my signal up. All my tv signals are also connected here.

I would like to have some sort of box-like contraption around it. But I am afraid that it will weaken the wireless signal strength. Is there any particular recommended material to use or avoid?

Anyone have a more creative idea than to just stuff it into some crate?

Thank you

You also need to make sure the device(s) get convection air for cooling.

I have one of those Ikea bookshelves that has a lot of squares and open backs.  The router is on one shelf, all the cables behind, boxed in by self-contained trays (so they don't lean in and block its airflow).  It's not trivial but not hard to pull the router out to get to the cables.  No one would play there by accident.

Wood, paper and plastic attenuate the signal only a little.


Is it a bad idea to tie output of hot water heater to sump pump drain? I bought a house and I have a leaking hot water heater (appliance is from 2001). I'd say it fills up an 8 ounce cup after two hot  10-15 minute showers. I had a plumber come out and he replaced the value:
After a week it started leaking again. My dad came over and came up with the idea of cutting off the overflow pvc pipe from the water heater and redirecting it to the sump pump line (marked in rectangles below)

It makes sense to me - if its leaking water, redirect the water to the sump pump. I am trying to figure out if

This is a huge mistake and I shouldn't do it because we are not thinking of something
Would my water bill increase because I'd still be wasting more water than usual? I'd imagine an extra say 2 cups a day isn't that much in the grand scheme.

I figure if we replaced the water heater down the raod, we would have the undo what the PVC that we add, but that shouldn't be an issue.

Do not connect the overflow from the water heater to the a/c condensate line as you have marked. If the TPV ever did open wide, then water would flow back into your a/c evaporator and gas-fired furnace. This is not permitted and would be very destructive.

You could direct the output of the WH to the same pipe that the a/c condensate goes into by using the proper fittings, but if I were you I would direct my efforts to determining why the TP relief valve is leaking. What temperature do you have the WH set at? Is the water coming out of the hot water taps extremely hot?

Then I would attach an expansion adapter near the floor to the end of the pipe the condensate goes into. This would allow both pipes to feed into the pipe going to the sump and provide a visible air gap between both pipes and the pipe leading to the sump.


How do I install a receptacle box in lath/plaster wall? I have a room with ungrounded electrical receptacles and I need to install a grounded outlet. The walls are lath and plaster. What I want to do is install a new receptacle box for the outlet. Is there a way to do this without having a big hole to repair? Basically I'd just like to cut a hole just big enough for the receptacle box, but not sure if it's possible.

I can easily get a wire to the desired location. I'm just not sure of how to get a receptacle box into the wall. There is a stud at the spot for an attachment point.

Any links to a site with pictures or diagrams would be a real plus.

I think you would be  better off using a remodeling box (with the flanges that rotate out to grip the wall) and ignore the stud altogether.  With a remodeling box, you just have to cut a hole big enough for the box, whereas if you use a regular box, you have to cut away more so you have room to nail it into the stud.

The main difficulties you'll face are that you don't know exactly where the lath is placed within the wall, and that the plaster will be brittle with age.

Start by using something sharp to gouge out a small hole in the center of the spot for your new receptacle; I use the pointed tip of a drywall saw.  Once you've exposed the lath, expand the hole up and down until you find the edges of that piece of lath.  The other lath are going to be approximately the same size and spaced up to maybe 1/4" apart.  Adjust your planned spot up or down a little so that at least one edge of the box lines up with a gap in the lath -- it's easier to cut through the plaster on its own.

Expand the hole until it's big enough for the box, then use a jigsaw to cut away the lath.  Vibration from the saw can cause more damage to the wall so take it very slow and easy. (Another reason to avoid the stud: if the lath ends at that stud, you'll only have about 1/2" of it to hold the plaster in place.)


My 100 amp box/panel seems to have lost the third leg One leg reads 120 and the other power reads 16volts while the neutral reads zero. I'm not sure what the problem is.

I don't imagine you just opened up your panel for no reason; I'm guessing appliances have stopped working in your house?

You could bust the seal on the meter pan and measure the lugs there.  But there's really nothing to break in there, so I'm guessing you'll see the same exact measurements... so it's not worth the paperwork to break the seal.

Call your power company and report an outage

The problem is almost certainly beyond the meter, probably at the service drop or up on the pole. Either way, you don't mess with the service drop -- that's the power company's job.

They should do this repair for free.


How to splice new disposal power cord to old outlet wiring I just got a new disposal. It came with 2 foot 3 prong power cord. The old disposal was wired to an outlet I can't get to. The wires for the old disposal were spliced right under it. I figured I could just splice the new cord to the old one, but the old wires have black, white, and a ground whereas the new disposal has 1 green and no color for the other 2. I assume on the new cord, green is ground, but the other 2 don't have  any colored insulation. How do I know which wires from the disposal go to which wires that are connected to the switch? The 2 main  prongs are the same size and shape, does that mean hot/neutral are interchangable? Herebare the pictures:

The neutral wire is usually the one with the writing or ribs. This is common and required for ul listing. Connect the wire with writing to your white the other to the black and ground to ground and you will have connected the way it was to the old disposal.


Why would capping one sprinkler zone cause my toilets to whistle? Ever since they capped one of the sprinkler zones in an area that no longer needs watering, two of my toilets start whistling when the sprinklers are running and only stop when I flush them.  How can I get this corrected?

Whistling toilets after plumbing alterations which occurs continuously except when flushed most likely indicates that debris was dislodged and is now affecting proper seal of the fill valves.

Turn off the water to each toilet, disassemble each fill valve, and give them a thorough flush by cracking the supply valve and letting water flow through, rinsing the washers and internal components. Heck, now is as good a time as any to go ahead and rebuild them by replacing all internal gaskets/washers.


Can I use sheathed cable in a surface raceway, and do I need to derate? Because running cable inside a finished wall is impractical in this situation (there is no attic and access to the floor below is difficult), I'm planning on installing a surface mounted raceway.  Inside this raceway, I would like to put

2 X 20A dedicated circuit for window/portable air conditioners
1 X 15A circuit for outlets.

Two questions:

Do I use THHN wire for this or can I run sheathed cable inside the raceway?  From what I've read, THHN is better because of heat dissipation but I'm not sure.
Do I have to derate?  It seems that I have more than three conductors (3 hots + 3 neutrals).

For code purposes: Quebec, Canada

Yes, but the derate won't actually hurt.  What applies is the lowest of all the derates, and they are several.  This one is that with 4-6 wires, you derate to 80% of the 90 degree C column of Table 310.15(B)(16).  So your 14 AWG wire must be derated to 20A, and 12 AWG wire must be derated to 24A.

I'm guessing that won't ruin your plans.

As far as NM vs THHN, NM takes a lot more space, you run into conduit fill issues sooner.  It's also a great deal stiffer than individual THHN wires. You may think THHN is just as stiff as individual wires of Romex, however they also make stranded THHN, which is much more flexible and easier to work with.


Risk of overtorquing wood screws with T-handle screwdrivers? The screws in question are 4.5 x 30mm A2 stainless steel hinge screws. As far as I can tell, they are good quality, branded (TIMco), double-countersunk, manufactured by thread rolling.

Material is hardwood (oak) with 2.5-3.0 mm diameter pilot holes, so a high index of friction.

A drill clutch would constrain the max torque to an adjustable limit, but in this case it was decided to fit the screws manually given the size of the screwheads relative to the hinge screwholes.

Given that one can usually deliver several times more torque using a T-handle screwdriver than a normal screwdriver, is there risk of screws like this breaking when handled this way?

In general, if you have a good quality screw and you are going into piloted holes, you shouldn't need enough torque to break the screw.  If you really bear down on it, it's not outside of the realm of possibilities that a screw will break, but it shouldn't be common.

If the screw is particularly hard to drive you can lubricate the threads with a little wax or soap to reduce the torque needed to fully drive them.  Once the heads are flush with the surface of the hinge, you should not need a lot of additional torque.  If these are phillips head screws, it's more likely they will cam out before the head breaks off when using hand tools.

I have broken cheap "drywall" screws with hand tools in the past, but I've never broken a better quality screw (like a decking screw) unless I was using an 18v drill or impact driver.


I mounted a vinyl picture window sideways, can I drill small weeping holes into the frame? I found a nice picture window on the cheap but its frame weeping holes are designed to drain in a horizontal orientation (one in each lower corner).

I have mounted it vertically, so now there is a weeping hole in both a single top and single bottom corner.

I was thinking I might seal the hole in the top, and drill tiny holes in the vinyl at the bottom.

Is this a good idea?

You will certainly need to provide for some drainage of the now "lower" track of the window so that accumulated water can flow out.

One thing to also consider is the overall design of the window itself. Many window units are designed with a definite UP and DOWN side to them. When you rotate such window by 90 degrees certain aspects of the window may be less than optimum for proper operation of the window. In particular with a window designed to be opened you may need to adapt certain aspects such as locks, latches and mechanisms designed to hold the window open. In the worst case a slide for the movable part of the window which was on the side now ends up on the bottom. Accumulated dirt in the track could make the window hard to open. The exterior top edge of some modular windows are also designed with a upper water drip edge which you may now have to substitute with a separate part in the installation.


Stuck, leaking water shutoff valve to toilet The problem...

I recently replaced the fill valve and the flapper in one of the toilets in my house.  When I turned the water back on using the shutoff valve below the toilet, a slow drip had developed.   The water seems to be coming from the valve itself, as there is no water on the supply line or the toilet itself.

What I have tried so far...

I tried to tighten the packing nut, but the nut won't budge.  I'm a little worried about trying to force the nut to move.  I don't want a little drip to become a raging torrent of water from the pipe and money from my bank account.

What should I try next?

Should I use WD-40 or some other solvent to try and loosen/tighten the nut?
Is there some kind of "goop" I can put on the valve to stop the leak?
Should I just call my handyman or a plumber to come and "make the leaking stop?"

If the drip becomes a flood, it's not the cost of the water you should be concerned with; it's the water damage.

You say the leak seems to be coming from the valve itself, and your reasoning makes sense; if the toilet's dry it means the valve is turned off, so it's probably not any fitting beyond the valve stem. This means that the shutoff valve gasket, or the valve itself, has worn out or corroded and needs replacing. This happens over time; just like the flapper valves in the toilet and other elements of your plumbing, the shutoff valves corrode with acidic water, calcify in hard water, deteriorate in highly chlorinated water, and just plain wear out from use and water flow of any type over the years.

This is definitely something that nobody would think less of you for if you called in a plumber. However, it is DIY-able. You'll need to shut off the water to the whole house (there should be a shutoff valve near your water meter, wherever that is, and you may need a special tool to turn it off), then bleed the remaining water out of the interior lines (easy as turning on the faucet on the sink to cold, or flushing the toilet a couple times). With a bucket or pan under the valve to catch any remaining water in the line, disconnect the toilet from the valve and open the shutoff valve, letting any remaining water drain out of the line and valve. If this is a first-floor bathroom, there may be quite a bit to drain as the upstairs supply pipes will drain out as well. You can help it drain faster by opening a couple of faucets upstairs (providing a vent for the pipe stack similar to what you have in drain pipes). If it never seems to stop, you probably didn't completely shut off the outside valve.

Once the line is drained, you can work with the valve. The first thing to check is the fitting between the valve and toilet, since you have that apart anyway. Check the gaskets/washers on either side of the fitting. Some are compression fittings, and work by sealing a copper or nylon line against a ball inside the fitting; it won't work well if the end of the line or the ball has deep gouges, scratches, or is generally deteriorated. Most toilet lines are steel-braided rubber with threaded fittings, and usually can be easily replaced if necessary.

The next thing to check, and much more likely to be the problem, are the gasket washers in the shutoff itself. There may be one or two depending on the valve's design; one to seal off the supply line, and another to make the valve stem watertight. The valve stem should be going through a fitting screwed into the valve housing; unscrew that with a crescent wrench and you can take the whole thing out. You can usually also unscrew the handle from the stem and completely disassemble the valve stem. Clean off any calcium deposits from the washers, and inspect them for extreme wear or other deterioration. You can buy a bag of these washers for a couple bucks at your local hardware store. Reassemble the valve with the new washers, close the valve completely, and re-pressurize your house plumbing (make sure to turn off all the faucets you opened to drain the lines) to see if that did the trick.

If that didn't stop the leak, or the valve stem or body appears highly corroded and/or calcified, it may be time to replace the whole thing. With the house shutoff closed again and the lines drained, look at the valve's connection to the wall pipe. There should be either a compression fitting or a threaded NPT connection between the two, and in that case  removing it simply takes your crescent wrench and some elbow grease. Some valves, however, are soldered directly on. If this is the case, I personally would stop and call a pro, but if you're handy with a soldering torch you can get the valve off yourself (careful you don't set the wall behind your toilet on fire). Then, simply take it to your local hardware store and buy a replacement with the same fittings; it should cost you about five to seven bucks. If the valve was threaded onto the wall pipe, get some Teflon tape as well. Use at least four wraps of the tape around the threads of the wall pipe (put it on in a clockwise direction, and stretch it a little to get it to mold to the threads), screw the valve firmly back on to the pipe, then re-pressurize the house again with the new valve closed (and all other faucets off) to check for leaks. If there are none, connect the toilet supply hose, open the shutoff, and make sure it still doesn't leak during and after the toilet fill-up.

If it STILL leaks, call a pro; you may have missed something, or done some damage in removing various parts.


Can you use dishwasher hoses for a washer? I have a small apartment kitchen, and would like to add a small washing machine/dryer combo

Taps on the kitchen sink are 1/2 inlet and 3/8 outlet.  Drain on the sink is 1 1/2" feeding into 2" plus below the p-trap.

1) Can I use a standard dishwasher hose connected to an add-a-tee off the 3/8ths outlet under the sink?

2) Can I use a dishwasher drain hose from the washer, and dump it in the stack under the sink?

Will these work, even if they aren't up to code?

I'm no plumber, but I've had my share of washing machine lint clogs. A washing machine puts out a LOT of water at one time, and that water comes with plenty of lint.

A typical setup (but not the only way to do it) is to have the output from the washing machine sit in a laundry tub. That (a) provides a buffer of sorts - if the main drain can't take the water that fast the tub can hold some of it as it drains out and (b) because the end of the hose is accessible you can attach a disposable metal mesh lint trap. I don't recommend trying the same thing with the kitchen sink - you will likely end up with the sink overflowing if the drain isn't 100% clear at the time, as most sinks are far smaller than a laundry tub. On the other hand, if you connect the hose directly into the drain line (with an appropriate trap AFTER the connection), you will be putting lint directly into the same section of pipe that is routinely getting grease and food from the sink.

I actually don't think the size of the drain hose itself will be a problem - my dishwasher drain hoses are similar size to my washing machine drain hose (though different materials) - the issues are the total volume of water in a very short amount of time and potential lint accumulation.


Switched outlet needs to be on for an exterior light switch to work; how can I fix this? I have two switches in a box connected via a jumper wire; one for an outside light and one for the top plug of a wall receptacle. My problem is that the receptacle switch has to be switched on in order for the exterior light switch to work.
What's confusing me is that the line in comes to the exterior light switch first, so if I were expecting any odd situation, it would be the reverse (e.g. the exterior light switch needing to be on for the switched receptacle to work).
The 110 line in connected to the exterior light switch is indicated by the red arrow below:

Then there's a jumper line that runs from the same screw of the exterior light switch over to the switch that controls the top receptacle of the outlet (blue arrow above).
The green arrow on the above photo is the load out to the exterior light.
Here is what the switch for the receptacle looks like:

Again, the blue arrow denotes the jumper wire coming from the powered, exterior light switch, and the green arrow denotes the connection to the top plug of the receptacle.
How can I fix this so that I can turn the exterior light on without having to switch on the receptacle?
(NB: not shown is a 3rd, 3-way switch in between these two that controls a ceiling light -- it is not connected to these two in any way other than all neutrals/grounds in the box being gathered together, respectively.)

You have the wrong wire identified as your always hot
The problem you have is that the last installer who was in the box made the same mistake and identified the incorrect wire as the always-hot for this circuit.  In particular, based on what happened when you moved the jumper to the other terminal on the switch for the receptacle, the wire pointed to by the red arrow in your pictures isn't the always-hot coming into the box, but the switched-hot going off to the receptacle. In turn, this makes the wire pointed to by the green arrow in your pictures the always-hot coming into the box.
So, you can fix this by undoing the wire nut on your pigtailing job, removing the wire from the top screw of the switch for the receptacle, nutting that wire in with your pigtails, and landing the wire you undid from the pigtailing job on the now-free top screw of the switch for the receptacle.  Once that's done, you can button the box up, turn the breaker on, and enjoy your lightswitches!


Installing a cleanout for 4" corrugated black pipe foundation drainage 10 years after installation of 4" corrugated black pipe (perforated) foundation drainage, I am experiencing clogging problems.  I would like to install cleanouts to improve sewer auger access.  What type of connections are available?  I would prefer to insert a PVC tee in the corrugate pipe, and rise above the surface with PVC pipe for the cleanout access.  Where, or how, can I get proper fittings to connect the 4" corrugated foundation pipe with 4" PVC for the cleanout?  I haven't seen such fittings in Home Depot or Lowes.  Thanks.

The problem with this approach is that using a sewer auger in the corrugated drain can actually damage the soft plastic drain tile. The cutting edges on the auger can tear into the pipe and then allow the collapse of the drain. The corrugated pipe is used because it is cheap and quick to install. Solid PVC pipe with holes is a better choice if you want to be able to clean the drain. I would use a garden hose to flush the system from the clean outs you install. Splice in the wye style style Tees with a rigid PVC riser near as many corners as you can, and keep flushing from one corner to the next. You will need multiple access points because you will not be able to push the hose around the corners.


Does this j-box follow NEC electrical code? I'm considering buying the following product for a security floodlight install:
Arlington 8141-1 Vertical Siding Lamp Mounting Kit with Built-in Box for 1/2 Inch Vertical Siding LAP.  It seems to get great reviews, but I don't understand how this can possibly follow code.  It features a round, 4in diameter x .5in deep j-box.  In the simplest case, it would require six wires to connect a fixture at the end of the cable run (three from the NM cable, three from the fixture).  However, six 14-gauge wires would require a 4in round j-box that is 1.25in deep according to NEC.

Can someone please explain to me why this j-box is acceptable or not?  Full disclaimer, I'm a total noob at electrical so it's entirely possible I'm just not understanding something properly.  Thanks!

ecmag.com's interpretation of 314.16(B)(1) Conductor Fill:

  There is an exception under the conductor-fill provision that pertains to luminaire (fixture) conductors. An equipment-grounding conductor or four or fewer luminaire (fixture) wires smaller than 14 AWG, or both, entering a box from a domed luminaire (fixture) or similar canopy and terminating within that box, can be omitted from box-fill calculations. Under certain conditions, up to four luminaire (fixture) conductors and one equipment-grounding conductor can be installed but not counted in the box-fill calculation. The conductors must be 16 AWG or smaller and must enter the box from a domed luminaire (fixture) or similar canopy.

I always wondered why the wires on lights are so flimsy; that's why, so you don't have to count them in box fills.


Is it safe to have a POE switch in an attic? I have a walk in attic.  Through a room upstairs, there is a door that opens and you can step out into the attic.  There is a power outlet in the attic on the wall (on a stud) near that door.  What I'm wanting to do is keep a POE switch in the attic.  I would need to run an extension cord around a corner from that outlet in the attic to put it where I want to put it.  The area has particle board below it, studs with insulation on 2 sides, and open area on the other two sides.  My concern is that I want to make sure I'm not creating a possible fire risk.  I don't think I would be, but I would like some feedback by people who know more than I do.

I tried to upload pictures, but they're apparently too large ...

By the way, my question is not with the CAT cables.  I have in wall rated CAT6 cables already running to a switch that is in a closet.  I want to reroute those cables to this attic switch to make things easier for me, and cable runs shorter.

I don't know for sure, but I don't think it's a good idea to have something that CAN overheat in an area that you don't normally visit (i.e. attic)  Cables runs of Cat 5 and Cat 6 should be fine at any length in a house unless you have a mansion or are running parallel to power.  I believe up to 200 foot is okay before any loss in packets.

POE switches are typically safe, and a good quality one is definitely worth it if you plan on leaving it unattended.  Extension cords for permanent use is never a good idea, but a 12 or 14 gauge cord would be plenty overkill and should NEVER get hot with a low power drawing POE switch on the cord.  Obviously don't use a lamp cord for extension purposes.


Melted ground wires together 4 can lights not working.  Found (with a voltage pen tester) that the neutral is hot in the cans and at both 3-way switches. Pulled the wires and the switches from the boxes. Used a digital volt meter, found the neutral lines and one hot wire at, both switch locations, read 119v when checked with the ground wire. In the panel box I found 2 ground wires melted together just before they go into the bus-bar. Can this cause the hot neutral wires?

Reading your question I think you have or had a high resistance joint in your panel on the neutral. In general electrical circuits in your residence wire all loads in parallel. This distributes amperage through each light fixture and the voltage remains the same.

If you had a loose connection of the neutrals at the panel this actually becomes a load in series with the rest of the circuit. The high resistance at that point would cause a voltage drop building up heat and melting your insulation. It would also show voltage on the neutral before it dropped at the joint.

I can't say that this is the only problem on your circuit but you must clean this up before trouble shooting any other problem that may be on the circuit. Make sure the circuits on the neutral are off then disconnect the neutral from the bus. Clean off any melted insulation, and clean the conductor so it looks "like a new penny". Make sure that when you reattach the neutral to the bus that it is also clean of and burning or corrosion. Make sure the neutral is mechanically and electrically secure to the bus. Then turn your circuit back on and see if there are any other problems.

Hope this helps and good luck.


Should my dryer cord's neutral and ground be connected to the same terminal? I installed the dryer cord like the dryer diagram and the dryer was not working properly so I had an exchange. When sears came to install the new dryer they connected the neutral of the cord and the ground of the cord on the middle joint of the dryer. They told me I did it wrong on the previous dryer. Is this correct? I used a 4 prong cord and the outlet has the 4 wires all the way to the main panel.

Sometimes you read something and can't help but shake your head. The answer is no, they wired the dryer wrong. The ground wire is supposed to wire to the ground lug of the dryer as shown in the manual on page 15.

The ground on the dryer needs to be wired correctly to provide safety for anyone who touches a metal surface if a short in the electrical system were to occur.


Fan wiring no switch, only using humidity sensor for control Putting in an exhaust fan for a bathroom that did not have one previously. Purchased one that has a humidity sensor and was looking to use that for the sole means of control (dont trust the kids to turn it on and off when they shower).
The fan has black & white to one connector for fan itself, and a black, white and brown from the connector labeled for humidity control. I did not plan on using any switch, just a direct hard wire to the unit.
Would I only wire the humidity sensors wires? Black & Brown to the hot, and white to white? Not certain if I need to use the other two at all or not, assuming a hard wire to them without a switch would just run the fan constantly. The instructions can be seen here, they are for 1 or 2 switches though.

You really need to add the switches as the instructions say to do. All warranties as well as any UL listings will be voided if not installed according to the directions. From a practical sense, you need a easy means to shut off the fan for cleaning and maintenance. It appears that only the brown wire needs to be connected to hot to do what you want but there's not a diagram of the sensor. Again, this is not recommended, follow the directions.


Mouse coming through gap around gas pipe I found some mouse droppings in a cabinet yesterday, I'm not very handy but best I can tell is the following -

There is a weep hole outside, which is maybe 1 centimeter wide wide, and it seems the mouse came through there, then crawled up to the pipe and squeezed through the gap around the pipe and eventually got into the cabinets.  There are some holes for plumbing in the cabinets, where it has easy access to get in.

I put a very small amount of foam on the gap last night, and it looks like the mouse pushed it out, I found a few droppings again in the cabinet this morning.

What is a correct and safe way to close the gap around the gas pipe?

This is a common issue that is often ignored or dealt with in shoddy ways. First, yes, set a mouse trap and get rid of the mouse. Then deal with the hole.

You may find an escutcheon that will fit around the gas pipe. Gas pipes may be many different sizes. To keep the mouse from pushing it up you could use a pipe clamp above it and/or glue to secure the escutcheon.

If you can't find an escutcheon, then you can make something to fit over the pipe.

Get a piece of plywood, maybe 6 inches square and cut it in half. Drill screw holes in the corners of the two pieces. Screw both halves down (butted together) onto another piece of plywood. In the center (on the seam) cut a hole the diameter of the pipe. Unscrew both halves an place the two halves on either side of the pipe (covering the mouse hole) and screw it down.

tip: the reason we cut the board in half first, is because most circular saws will remove 1/8" as they cut. If you only have say, a 1/2 inch pipe, then after you cut the hole in half you will have a football shaped hole instead of a circular hole... and the mouse will probably start gnawing at the gap.


How should I waterproof a concrete roof? We have a 28y/o Medical Clinic in a remote area of Haiti.  The roof is concrete and has one coat of DryLoc on it which is lifting off in many areas.  The roof is 136' X 35' with a very slight pitch to each side.  We plan to mount PV Panels on it after resealing. How should I waterproof this roof? The leaks are very minor.

You're probably looking for an elastomeric roof coating.

Primarily, you'll need to clean the roof, repair and fill any cracks/gaps/etc and remove any of the peeling drylok, apply an appropriate primer meeting the manufacturer's suggestions, then apply at least two coats of the roof coating. It would also be recommended that any sloping/drainage issues be addressed as well in order to avoid heavy pooling, where possible.

As usual, cheaper is rarely better when it comes to roof coatings. A white coating tends to last longer and reduce roof temperatures (which should also help with interior temperatures).


how to soundproof pipes in basement apt Have waste pipes passing through basement level to well. Want to set up a small apt at basement level so want to both hide the pipe and especially to create barrier to have it soundproof.

Supposedly (per hazy memory of TV show) cast iron pipes are quieter. Lacking a TV show's need to tear things out to make footage, and budget for silliness, I'd probably skip tearing out plastic pipes to replace with cast iron in the hopes that it would be quieter pipe...

Box and insulate. If you want a better job, then box and insulate the first box. Or just stop after the first box, flush, shower, and drain the tub a few times while someone listens below, and see if you feel the need for additional boxing. If you have the freedom of space layout, pencil a closet in around the pipe box, and that's another box between the pipes and living space. 5/8 drywall (because it's dense/heavy/good for blocking sound) and 2x2 in the corners make a nice pipe chase, and you pack that full of cellulose or fiberglass insulation. If it needs more, use resilient channel to attach another layer of drywall, and perhaps add a sheet product like mass loaded vinyl between the drywall layers as well.


How to finish around the inside of new windows after replacing old ones New windows were put in about a year ago and we were left with the result shown in the photos. I'm tired of seeing this and want to fix and finish it myself. However, I'm not sure what steps to take.!

Get some 1x4.  I'd go with primed fingerboard pine.  Cut to size and install against the metal frame of the new window.  Caulk, Paint.

I've installed windows and then completely hidden the window frame with interior trim such that you only see the trim I installed and the glass.  The frame that holds the glass is hidden with the trim that butts up against it.


How should I wire this sauna heater? I have to change our sauna heater. The current heater has wires connected to Earth, N and L3.

I'm confused by the manual of the new heater as there is only 1 X N wire but the manual seems to suggest that there should be 2 (unless I've misread it).

The shop said that the wiring would be the same.

The new heater model is numbered 1 - 7 so it's the top diagram that seems relevant.

[1

Old:

[2

The diagram gives you three possible wiring options depending on your power system. The top one is for 415V three-phase (star), the middle for 240V three-phase (delta), and the bottom one for 240V single phase.

In a normal house the bottom one is what you want. Basically connect all the N terminals together, and all the L terminals together and those are your N and L points.

Note: the lower two diagrams are the same physical connectors as the top one - they just omitted drawing in the connection 7 that not used for the lower two diagrams.


When there are multiple circuits in a junction box do all grounds get connected If I have a junction box where there are splices from several circuits, do I connect all ground wires from all circuits together in one bundle or do I do that for each circuit within the junction box?

Only one answer...  YES, all the bare grounds go together!!


Do I need anything more than drylok in my basement? I'm trying to finish a room in the basement. The plan was to frame some studs, hang drywall, the usual procedure when building a room. The thing is, it might be out of budget to buy everything I need for that while keeping everything moisture free. The studs, the insulation, the vappr barriers, flooring, etc.

My question is: could I not just drylok the cement walls and floor? Insulation and heat loss isnt really a big problem for me. I could just drylok the walls so it looks painted and put a rug down for a simple room right?

I should also add that there haven't been any moisture problems in the past. I just don't want to create any new mold problems.

I would not install any vapor barrier in a basement. If you do paint the walls make you use a paint that will allow moisture to transpire through the wall.

Mother Nature has an unlimited supply of moisture so there is no way you can prevent it from entering the basement. You just want to make sure it is allowed to dry to the inside. If you trap it with a barrier it will cause mold, mildew and eventually fail.

Read the articles on this site regarding vapor barriers. Especially in basements. Like this article from fine homebuilding reprinted here. The number one mistake is "One: Vapor barriers on basement insulation will rot your walls".

I would just paint the walls with a flat latex and stain the floor. Or you could stain both and let the walls breathe even more.

Edit from tahwos' comment below: Should probably add the benefit of properly graded exterior slope, back-fill that can drain adequately, and working gutters, to round out this answer. A correctly installed and maintained basement, is a dry basement.

Good luck!


How to trim between wood floor and circular opening for spiral stairs I recently replaced the carpet in my attic with a floating mdf backed engineered hardwood floor.  the attic has a circular opening in the floor for a spiral staircase.

The face of the opening is 3/8" plywood. My question is:  How do I trim the curved edge between the floor and the opening face?

I haven't been able to find a product designed for this purpose at the local hardware store or in a Google search.  Something made of wood would be ideal, but that seems impractical.  Probably something made of a  flexible material would be an easier option.  If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it.  Thanks in advance

I would make a polygon (24 - 1/2x2 cut at 82.5 degrees + wood glue + a lap joint for strength) that can then be cut into a circle and maybe routed with a detail. You would see the grain changes in direction, but that wouldn't be a deal breaker to me. It would be a bit time consuming with all the cuts and glue up.

I've also seen videos of people using PVC trim and a clothes iron to bend long thin strips and it seems to work very well, but I've never tried it.


Hoop shed with pex tubing framing How much weight can 20 ft. 1/2" pex-b tubing support when using it as framing for hoop shed considering I intend to cover it with 2 layers of light- medium duty tarps and I want it to stand up to rain/wind and light snow in the the winter.
The hoopshed with measure 20' long x 4.5' wide.
I'll have 10 20' pieces of tubing along the length of the hoopshed very 2 feet with 3 perpendicular pieces connecting the hoops.

Virtually none. It isn't just about the strength, but the stiffness. It'll flop around like a fresh fish. Take it from someone who has done something similar with 3/4" PVC conduit and found even that lacking when a foot of snow landed on it.


Could I use a pressure washer with a well pump? Could I use a pressure washer on a house with a well pump? Should I be concerned about the pump running for a long period of time i.e. 4 hours? half a day while we wash the outside of the house?

Experience showed that the well pump water pressure is set to match most "city" water's pressure which is between 50 and 60. Our pump was set to 50 and the pressure washer we purchased is 1750 ps1. We connected the pressure washer and it worked without issues.


Loading on 5/4 treated pine decking I recently built a deck, and we are looking to make a privacy wall using pencil hollies. As I was making sure weep holes weren’t sitting on joists, it occurred to me that the way that these planter troughs are positioned, the will set between two 16” o/c, 2x8 joists.  Each (4) planter will span roughly 6 decking boards and will likely be around 500lbs initially with gravel, dirt, and a young plant.  As the plant grows, it may gain some weight as well.  Is this a dangerous amount of loading for these conditions?
Side note. I have a plan to route excess water away from the bottom of the planter.

Check the code for you area it likely specifies the minimum pound per square foot that a code compliant deck should support (for my area it's 50 pounds per square foot).
Based on a guess of the planter size based on board width my guess is you may have a problem. I'd also note that if you live in an area that gets snow then I definitely be concerned as the holly will hold snow (additional weight) and cause drifting just where you don't want it (yet more weight).
Have you considered the fake outdoor privacy vines you can buy?
Jonathan


knob of propane tank was stuck I used the grill last year, and am planning to replace the propane tank. However, I found that I could not turn the knob. I marked the knob with red color in the following figure. I guess it maybe because it is stuck since I have not used it for so long. May I know are there any tools to turn this knob? Any suggestions are highly appreciated.

I'd use a pair of Tongue-and-groove pliers, just be careful not to crank too hard.


Shower Temperature Control Adjustment I am trying to repeat a service that a plumber performed on my shower system.

An engineer came and fixed an issue with the hot water not reaching the correct temperature by installing a new valve. On completion he was unable to test the water temperature because other work was being carried out in the building which meant the entire buildings hot water was turned off.

Because of this, he said that he may not have set the tap in the correct position. When the water was turned back on later that day, as he had suspected, the water was not as hot as it should be.

Another plumber came out a few days later and adjusted the position of the tap, and the temperature changed. I was not there to test, and would like to adjust it some more.

I am not sure if it possible to adjust more, or how the system works. I have read the manual, and there are no instructions on how to do this. It looks like the metal clip can come out.

This is a Vado system as shown in the pic below. If someone has any idea what the plumber may have done when adjusting the tap, I would be appreciate the help. Or if you think there is another issue.

I have another bathroom and the temperatures are fine.

Thanks for any help

Filling or grinding the shower valve risks creating a leak and causing much more work to repair it. Just turn up the temperature on your water heater instead.


How do I turn up the water pressure to my kitchen sink? A while ago I had a "professional" contracted through a major company install a hot water heater in the basement: well the hot water heater works fine but the "professional" managed to turn the water pressure to my kitchen sink to a low trickle coming out of the hot water and a slightly more stronger flow from the cold. I cannot run my portable dishwasher let alone do too many dishes at once. I use to have great water pressure before this guy came along. I have checked both dials under the sink and they are all the way turned up..... I do not know exactly what this man did; all I know is he had an attitude problem, wrecked my front screen door, and left a mess in the basement.

My house was built in 1958 but before I moved in they did some major renovations including all new plumbing (minus the hot water heater).

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to turn the water pressure up to my kitchen sink so I can run my portable dishwasher?

Please let me know what other information I can provide that would help solve the problem if need be.

If the water pressure and flow are OK in the rest of the house the problem of low flow in the kitchen is with the shut off valves under the sink or the faucet. one or all are restricted with something. That something could be dirt or calcium from the old tank or the water lines. If the faucet is newer, most have small fittings and small lines that can plug or be restricted easily. I have had to replace the valves under my sink and clean out the fittings for the connecting lines in the faucet.


How to remove in wall speaker grill/frame I tried all the suggestions in the following question to no avail (no accepted answer)
How do I remove a ceiling speaker cover?
I also watched several YT videos that so far haven't provided any additional insight.
How do I remove the following speaker grill and/or frame so that I can cleanly paint the walls? We just moved in to a new house (built 2014), I have no manuals and what I have tried so far hasn't worked (putty knife, paper clip equivalent, etc.).
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

On some speakers the grill part, not the bezel or frame of the grill assembly, but the actual grill with the small holes in it is pressed into the bezel/frame.
You take a tool with a point small enough to fit in the holes, or even a very small screwdriver, and you gently pry the grill up and out of the bezel/frame. You want to try and get a hold of the side of the grill just before it enters the bezel.  You need to be careful and not try to pull to much out at once and bend the grill. Work your way out in both directions from one corner until you can get that corner free.
On my JBL control 5 this is what i have to do, and your grill material look exactly the same as my JBL's.  There is a pliable mastic in the groove that "holds" the grill in place, once you get one corner up you can work it  little by little around the grill.
If this works then there should be mounting screws visible to remove the bezel, or the speaker may be attached to the bezel and the whole unit comes out.
To reassemble you just push the grill back into the groove in the bezel.
I do not know if this how your speaker is constructed so proceed with caution.
All that said, If you can not figure it out, you can use painters tape and carefully tape around the bezel, paint and remove the tape before the paint dries.


very fine solenoid wires won't burn from AC source? I've seen tiny solenoid electromagnet (that is the solenoid used to open contacts inside a GFCI receptacle) with very fine wire used in the winding.. won't it burn if exposed directly to 120v ac power at each end?

How is the winding computed?

Wire thickness doesn't relate to voltage.  It relates to current.  So a coil of that nature would either need to be externally current-limited (resistor in series), or internally limited due to its own practical impedance, being a coil and all.  In that impedance, frequency would be a factor.

Insulation thickness relates to voltage. And coil wires don't need enamel strong enough to block the entire voltage, only the worst-case voltage between adjacent windings.  If each winding layer has a separator with higher dielectric strength, that may be all that is needed.


How do I drywall over a partial cement wall? I have 9' walls and the bottom foot or so is cement on one wall. What's the best method to drywall over this wall so no moisture seeps in?

As you can see, there was moisture seeping in down at the bottom below the window. I planned on using a moisture barrier on it, but I'm not sure if this is the best idea out there.

Well, it rained pretty heavily the entire week while I was working, so I waited a day or two before drywalling to see if I could find a leak. I believe whatever was causing the problem was fixed. I think the mold there was from back when that window used to be a doorway.

Here's my fix:
The wall was very unlevel, so I went to Lowe's in search of Lath (my brilliant wife's idea)! I used it to level out the wall and pretty much re-build the wall without having to actually tear it apart. Here's a shot of the lath-ed wall:

I also put some plastic on the bottom to cover the cement area, just in case

And a two shots of the same wall now mudded & tapped:


When is the best time to install solar tubes in relation to a new roof? My roof will need to be replaced next year, perhaps a complete tear-off. I'm also considering installing one or more solar tubes. I'm thinking it would be wise to wait for a new roof before installing the tubes, but the winters in upstate NY get very dreary and we could really use the extra light soon. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

If your doing the work yourself its only your time you wasting but if your paying someone then its your money.  Flashing for solar tubes is not that bad just an oversized plumbing vent.  If your roof is in bad condition it could be a project because the shingles will break apart if they are too old a brittle. You May need to buy a bundle of shingles to replace the shingles you break.


LED Strip Lights turn on by themselves In my kitchen I have two sets of under cabinet LED strip lights. These strips have randomly been turning on throughout the day. The strips are both controlled by a remote that signals to separate in-line dimmers that run on the same frequency. Both runs are plugged in to different outlets through AC adapters. The outlets are on separate circuits.
My initial thought was that the remote went bad and was erroneously sending out signals to the dimmers, so I removed the battery from the remote (I had a separate unused remote from the install). This problem has persisted even with the new remote.
I'm wondering if there is some type of RF interference somewhere within the house, but I can't imagine where. I haven't installed anything new in recent days. These lights were working fine for about 8 months before this problem started.
Just as a further clarification, sometimes one strip will come on while the other stays off and vice versa.
EDIT: These are in fact RF controlled dimmer remotes. According to the supplier they use RF Pulse Width Modulation.

I was thinking the same thing as Isherwood’s comment.
To identify the type cover the remote and see if it works.  if it will not turn on when blocked it is IR if it works it is RF.
One tell tail sign of IR is lenses exposed on the end this is normally a IR diode clear in color , some have a plastic cover over them and this can not be seen.
Both types can be affected by other remotes and even noisy power these usually have low end decoders compared to a tv or similar remote that have very specific signals.
If the unit is RF you can attenuate stray signals from outside the home with foil. Make a small cup shaped foil around the back it doesn't have to touch it can be like an umbrella and signals from the street will be attenuated and reduce false triggers (a sideways umbrella) this will not stop signals in the house but could reduce them.


Shower Floor Tile - Please Help! We just had glass penny round tile laid on the shower floor yesterday. It is approved for shower floors but we hate the look of it. Since it hasn't been grouted yet, can we pull these up before the thinset hardens? The tiler won't be back for two days and since it's Sunday, we can't ask him or our contractor. Please advise.

It will quite possibly ruin the waterproofing layer under the tile. It is best to let it set up, roughen the glossy surface of the tile and set new tile directly over the first.
There will most likely need to be an extension ring added to the drain to get it to the new level.


Water backup on new double vanity/both sides Installed new double vanity. Water drains slowly on right side and backing up in sink on left side. Didn't have to do anything to p trap lines up same as old vanity. Did have trouble with stoppers when installing. Could stoppers be the problem?

I might be wrong, but I'm "Picturing" (hint-hint) that you have a Regular T which has both drains aligned with each other & gravity's supposed to drop the water down the drain that's perfectly in the middle of both sinks. Like this.

 This might be what was previously there & was fine. But, did you change anything like the vertical heights of anything? However, this is actually the wrong setup & allows for a lot of debris build-up & sometimes very poor draining.

-

The correct setup is to actually connect to the P-trap off to one side & straight down from one of the sinks. Then you turn your T side ways (but preferably a WYE fitting...see last picture) to accept a long pipe from the other sink.

-

Here's the best setup, using a WYE. See how the fitting starts the gravity drop.

-

Anyway, I do realize this is likely an Off-The-Shelf Kit & you won't be doing any of the above permanent type of setups. But, stoppers shouldn't be the problem if water's normally exiting the sink. I would take another look around the store & ask about other or better double sink kits. Or, even see if they can help you screw one together of individual parts.

I think you just need to either match exactly what you had before or get a better kit & even a different kit if another setup can work under your sinks. I have run into your problem a number of times before & it was completely remedied by the 2 offset setups above.


Combi boiler lighting hourly to warm heat exchanger - is this normal? I have an Ideal Isar HE24. It lights for 2 minutes once an hour to warm the heat exchanger and 'optimise delivery time for domestic hot water to taps or showers'...

The problem is that this is burning a small fortune in gas for a function I use once a day in the morning for a shower - all of my appliances heat their own water and I'm out of the house 14 hours a day 5 days a week.

Is the normal functionality for a combi boiler? (first one I've lived with) if not it could actually be worth replacing the boiler as this appears to be adding £400 per year to my energy bills.

On page 5 of the boiler manual you linked to, it states:

  PRE-HEAT DHW pre-heat will be disabled during DHW off periods.

So, you need to define some DHW "off" periods (most of the time, evidently) and a few DHW "on" periods when you expect to use it.

Programming those is described on Page 8.

The default is to run DHW "on" from 06:30 to 00:00 (page 11)

Edit: I have observed that most generalizations don't hold worldwide, so I did not start out with this one - but certainly the vast majority of North American "heating and domestic hot water" (what you presumably mean by "combi" - not a term we use) boilers simply run to keep themselves hot all the time - there may be a summer/winter switch which changes some setpoints, but the  basic operation is to sit there being warm/hot as a default. So yes, I'd consider that "normal" operation for such a boiler, if it hasn't got the time controls as described. And @RedGrittyBrick's suggestion is a good one, if a newer control panel is compatible with an older boiler. The other change from older boilers we commonly see here is a LOT more insulation - according to the manual linked, your hourly burn is somewhat more frequent that expected, at least on the newer model - unless your boiler is located in a particularly cold place, that may well mean the newer models are better insulated (and/or, if you have not already done so, you may want to add insulation to the water pipes.) You might ask the manufacturer if there is a way you can add more insulation to (at least some parts of) the boiler itself without causing a hazard.

We had a period (not entirely extinguished, but somewhat tempered by observed results now) when "instant" hot water heaters, where only a pilot light, or sometimes not even that, was kept burning until water is called for, were all the rage. "Observed results" include far less savings (.vs. a well-insulated tank-type hot water heater) than claimed, and relatively delicate heat exchangers and control systems which become expensive to maintain after a few years. Some folks still love the things - they still hold a certain attraction for me, but being off the natural gas grid, not much - bottled/tank-trucked gas (propane) is far a more expensive fuel source.


How much should I worry about this large crack in the foundation slab? I recently bought a 3-story townhouse in northern Virginia. I pulled up the carpet on the bottom level (foundation is a slab on grade) and discovered a large crack running along the whole room and into the mechanical closet.

The crack is about 3/8" - 1/2" wide and runs about 16 feet, under the wall at the top of the first photo, into the mechanical room. From there it goes under the furnace, but doesn't appear to continue outside of that room. It starts beyond the bottom of the first photo, at or underneath a gas fireplace. It looks to be up to 3" deep at points, maybe more. I was able to get the ten-dollar bill about halfway into the crack.

Putting a level across the crack produces a slight rocking, maybe a couple degrees, but nothing huge. Each side of the crack appears level on its own.

The townhouse is in a row of 7 townhouses; mine is adjacent to one of the end units. I have no idea how recent the crack is, but the townhouse was built in 1999. I haven't seen any moisture or anything coming up from the crack during recent rains.

How much should I worry about this crack? I plan to get it evaluated by an engineer, but is it something I should do immediately or could I wait a little bit?

Sigh. Cheap builders are forever spending thousands on concrete, but unwilling to spend a few hundred on steel to make the concrete properly reenforced. Nobody sees the steel, but the lack of it does show up eventually.

Unlikely to be a major issue, might be a path for water or bugs, so probably sealing it would be best. But consulting an engineer is good for being careful. Unlikely that the house will fall down any time soon (if ever), so probably not too urgent.

Now, if you change to a hundred dollar bill and it gets pulled down into the crack, you have dwarves, and $10 wasn't enough to tempt them... ;^)


What is this metal piece coming out of my sprinkler system piping? Between my sprinkler system solenoid valve and indexing valve there is a T connector that adds some sort of metal piece on top of the pipe.

I could not find a similar part on any of the sprinkler system parts lists or guides I've looked through, and google searching for any of the writing on top didn't bring up anything. I can make out the letters CFM 13.5, which makes me think it may be some sort of regulator, but I don't see how that would work since it is attached on the side of the pipe.
The part leaks water when the system is turned on, which makes me think it may be broken and needs to be replaced. Any ideas what it is?

That's an anti-siphon (or vacuum breaker) valve:

Source
It prevents dirty yard water from being sucked back into the potable water system if the water pressure fails.