In Canada, can I run Ethernet cables through air ducts? I am planning to wire my new condo for Ethernet, but unfortunately I don't have the usual basement/attic access that homeowners enjoy. Barring that, the easiest way to route cables where I need them to go is through the air ducts, terminating a few centimeters inside the duct, where the cable goes into the wall and down to a socket.

However, I've been getting conflicting information about whether or not this is permitted under the building code. In Canada (specifically Quebec) is it permitted to run plenum-rated Ethernet cable through ventilation ducts? I've seen conflicting answers online as to whether this is permitted or if the only wires permitted inside ducts are those related to the ventilation system. I can't access the building code myself without paying several hundred dollars for the privilege.

Barring that, can anyone recommend a good guide to running network cable through finished walls? All of the how-to guides I've seen crow about how easy it is but assume that you can go in through an unfinished basement or attic. Unfortunately, not only do I not have that luxury, the floors and most of the ceilings are concrete.

In Ontario, Rogers spent years running their coaxial cables through duct work. The only downside was that the heat caused the wires to wear more quickly.  I don't have access to codes here, but if Rogers did it then it's probably allowed.

Ethernet cables aren't shielded as well and would suffer the heat more.  Maybe run them through the cold air return?

As an alternative, if you can get he cable to the right floor, stapling them to or behind baseboards worked well for me.

Hope that helps a little.


Do I need to patch the hole in my bathroom drywall behind the vanity? I have a simple goal: I want to install a new vanity in my bathroom (in the United States, California specifically).

However, after extracting the prior vanity, I ended up having to cut some of the floor molding to accommodate for the size of the new vanity. Unfortunately, when I removed the piece of molding that I cut, I discovered it was hiding a 15cm wide, 4cm tall hole at the base of the drywall.

When I install the vanity, it will completely cover this hole. Assuming I mount the vanity right against the wall and caulk the joints, do I need to do any drywall repair to this hole or would I encounter any problems leaving it as-is?

That does not even qualify as a hole as the back of the drywall is not broken. Just push some drywall mud, vinyl Spackle or caulking into it and call it good. you don't even need to make it pretty, just make sure it flush with the wall so it does not interfere with the vanity.


Keypads of home security devices from Ademco and Honeywell When I bought my house there were two home security devices installed, one was Ademco and the other, Honeywell (see pics below). I didn't pay attention to them and didn't ask the former owner questions (now he is no longer available).
Recently both devices start beeping unexpectedly, two times from Honeywell devices last night when everyone sleeps, for example. It becomes annoying. I can stop the beeping by pressing the "chime" button on Honeywell's keypad but it's not a permanent disabling. It would start again.
From the LED panel I did notice that it might be low battery issue.
Now my questions are:
How can I factory-reset the devices w/o knowing the passwords?
How can I change the battery for these devices?
Thanks

Normally (if a wired alarm) the battery is in the alarm system box (typically a 12V gel-cell or AGM lead-acid battery.) If wireless, every [expletive] thing will have a battery to replace.
For reset instructions look up the model of the main alarm panel (not the keypad) for instructions. Start with the lazy option of "try the factory default" since many people don't bother to change them.


Rewiring in metal conduit My brother and his family live in an older house. It's old enough to have metal pipes as electrical conduits, quite uncommon nowadays in The Netherlands.

He wants to rewire some parts, to move some switches, and to fix a hotel switch that doesn't work. He has no idea what wires were used; for all he knows there may still be some textile-wrapped wires in there.

I'm worried about the new electrical wires getting scraped when pulling them, having exposed wire which can come in contact with the conduit.

What can we do to prevent that? Is there any sheating we can apply? Should we use YMVK cable where possible?

Is there anything else we should know about metal conduit vs pvc?

Please note that this is in The Netherlands, where building codes may differ from the USA.

Replacing all metal conduit by pvc conduit is not an option, as they run in his ceilings as well, between the upper level floor and the lower level plaster on metal wire mesh ceilings with ornaments.

Note that metal conduits are unusual in The Netherlands, as the standard has been pvc for over half a century. My guess is that wires available in home improvement stores will be tailored towards that.

My understanding is that metal conduit is allowed in existing installations, but not for new ones. My brother doesn't want to replace the metal conduits per se, but any new instalments (for instance when relocating a switch) will have to be pvc.

Don't replace metal pipe with PVC "just because it's what everyone uses today". Metal pipe is superior in every way.  And may also provide a valid earthing path.

You should not use cable in conduit.  You should use individual wires which are rated for pulling through conduit.  For instance, North America uses THHN, which has a nylon outer coating to make it slick for pulling. Surely any wires sold as individual wires will be made for this, because it will obviously be used in conduit!

All curves in your conduit should be broad turns.  If you have sharp corners, there will be a removable cover to access the wires.  You do not drag wires around corners -  you remove the cover, pull to there, then pull the next segment.


4 neutral wires bundled, two smart switches, how to pair neutrals I have 4 neutral wires bundled together, and two switches requiring neutral. Each switch allows an in and an out for neutral, as pictured.  My question is, does it matter how I pair the neutral wires with each switch? If it does, how do I tell the proper wires to use?

Edit: I can't get the images to upload, hopefully there description is clear enough.

Bundled together sounds like the USA so you can run a neutral from each switch and connect them to the existing four neutrals with a red wire nut,if it's 14 AWG. A better way would be to install a neutral, white, wire from the first switch to the second switch and then from the second switch to the bundle of neutrals since you have an in and out for neutrals on each switch, provided that in and out are not backstabs but back screw clamps.


How can I tile the raised edges in my basement? I'm looking to tile a basement floor that was dug out about 6", so there is a roughly 6" tall x 4" wide raised concrete border around the whole room, as they didn't dig out the edges.  This border is mostly level but has a rounded edge, and it's painted.

I was thinking it would be a more finished look to tile over this edge with the same thing I'm using for the floor (TBD but probably slate).

How do I do this properly so that it comes out straight?

My best guess is to use a backerboard of some kind over the existing concrete border to guarantee I have a straight, level surface on which to apply the tile.  I had been planning on using Ditra for the floor, in large part just because it seemed easier (and thinner) than cement board, but would I have to worry about the interface between the two?  Would I attach the cement board to the concrete just with thinset, or should it be fastened somehow?  Do I need to remove the paint (it's very well adhered currently, no peeling)?  Or is this completely the wrong way to do this?

If you want to ensure a perfectly straight and level corner along the entire length, then I'd suggest you build a two sided "box" to rest on the raised surface.  Build it out of 1x1s, making a frame that consists of 3 long straight edges connected at perfect 90 degrees by short supports (cripples) spaced 12" on center.

Lay that box over the concrete edge, and use shims to get it perfectly level.  Glue in place.

Then apply plywood to the frame and proceed with tiling as normal.  (You don't need to ditra the box in this scenario, just tile to the ply)

Rough sketch showing cross section of wall/floor and stick diagram of proposed box framework:


Can't pry off sliding shower door frame I'm removing a sliding shower door frame (tub-mounted) and had no problem getting the top and sides off. Then I started on the bottom portion attached to the tub. Cut through the caulk and went as deep as I could (not very) with a blade. The bottom frame is attached very tight... couldn't get a skinny pry bar or anything else into the crack. Tried yanking and pulling/pushing - didn't budge. No idea how it was attached!
I was thinking about using a hacksaw on multiple smaller sections, which might give me a better chance of success of pulling off pieces. Can anyone offer any ideas?

I wouldn't use a hacksaw blade, it will likely scratch the finish. Try to pass a length of dental floss under the end. Wrap the floss ends around screwdriver handles. Use a sawing motion to cut through the caulk or tape under the frame. Use a plastic scraper or something like alcohol or GOOF-OFF to clean the residue.


240v pool timer with 120v outlet, proper usage? My pool cleaner timer which is 240v has a outlet added that looks like a 120v.
Can I use the outlet to plug in a 120v light or must it be a 240v?
(looks like a standard 120v outlet one finds in a house).

That is a 120v 15 amp receptacle. I hope you have a neutral feed to the pool or a transformer that is creating the 120v.
If this has been installed in the last 20 years, it should have a proper neutral and should be safe to use.
If it is an older system that had an added 120v circuit, then there may be some safety risks because the neutral for the light might be going back on the ground for the pool.
When skin is wet, the resistance of the skin is reduced and shocks affect us at lower voltages, this combined with muscle convulsions can cause drowning at low levels, so I always like to know the system prior to saying it is safe.
If your pool has a 4 wire feed and everything is properly wired and grounded, then it should be fine to plug in to that receptacle with a 120v device.


16 showers , 6 toilets, 8 sinks and 6 urinals what size of water pipe should be for the supply? I have building with 16 showers , 6 toilets, 8 sinks and 6 urinals
what size of water pipe should be for the supply?

Usually a fixture will receive a 1/2 inch supply line; one for hot and one for cold.
Based on "16 showers, 6 toilets, 8 sinks, and 6 urinals" we would want 2 lines to each shower and sink:
(16 * 2) + 6 + (8 * 2) + 6 = 60

Using the pie * radius squared formula, we know that a half inch diameter circle has an area of 0.2 sq. inches (0.19635 if you want to be exact).
Now multiply by the number of half inch lines you need to run 0.2 * 60 = 12
Now that we know our supply pipe needs to have an area of 12 sq. inches we can work backwards: ( ( square root of ( 12 divided by pie ) ) and double the result ) to get a diameter of 4 inches.

If you think that only half of the fixtures will be used at any given time then we cut our square inches (12) in half to 6 and work backwards to give us a 2.75 inch pipe.


Mount ceiling fan box to underside of joist I want to install a ceiling fan outside under a porch. I would run new conduit up to the underside of the ceiling joist. The joists are covered by bead board which I could cut away from the joist. I found a box by Garvin, their 54171-FANNBWP. The instructions indicate it can be mounted directly underneath the ceiling joist. It is a fan rated, outdoor rated electrical box. I wanted to get some experienced opinions on whether this would be a problem.

The only real reason to cut into the ceiling would be if you needed to bring the wires down from inside the ceiling. Since that isn't the case, I would buy some 3" lag bolts with pan heads (something like this) and drive them through the bead board and into the joist.
The reason for the diagram is they want to emphasize the joist part (#2 in the list). Screwing this into bead board only would be a recipe for disaster.


Why does my Aprilaire 560 make clicking noises before starting? My Aprilaire 560 humidifier will do a bang click many times before it turns the blower on. I  replaced the solenoid valve with a new factory part and it still does the same thing. What next?

If the 550 is like the 560, they use the furnace's blower and don't have a built-in fan.  In a typical setup (at least for the 550), when the furnace is generating heat, the furnace supplies voltage to the humidifier, which may activate if the relative humidity is lower than the setting on your humidistat.

You should be able to feel the solenoid click when it activates.  You can test this, with the furnace producing heat, by turning the humidistat up and down.  If you get the click, but no water comes out in your 560, and you're sure your water valve is on, it might be a clogged emitter.  They have a tiny pinhole that slows down city water pressure.  Mine is in the water line between the solenoid and the Aprilaire unit.  You can buy new or some people clean them out with a pin.


What are these pipes I have 2 4 inch PVC pipes sticking up about 3 inches above ground in my flower bed, one is capped the other isn't. I ran over the capped one with the lawn mower and every time a toilet was flushed I could hear it from that pipe, I replaced that cap as it was threaded and an easy fix. My question is what are these and should both be capped? I have city sewage.

The caped pipe you could hear the toilet flush is the clean out . This the location a snake is put in if the pipes backup. Is the second pipe outside a bathroom or kitchen? If so it may be a second clean out especially if they are quite a distance apart and if it is a clean out it should be capped also. A second possibility for the uncapped pipe is a clean out for the drains to the storm water runoff from your gutters these don't require a cap but it is a good idea so material from the flower bed dosent fill it up.


Can I install a brick with a corner missing by filling the gap with mortar? I took out a wall in AC unit from a rowhouse wall and was attempting sawtooth new bricks in to help remove any evidence of the AC in the wall. In doing so, I have 2 challenges.

One brick cracked off in 2 pieces , but the dislodged portion covers little area on the face.  It starts from the bottom corner and to the top about an inch over on the 8 x 2.25 inch brick.  My question here can I simply slide it back in place - or should I replace it which means more drilling and cleaning. Its getting close to the edge of the wall.
The AC chassis was about 25.5 inches wide so I have about 1.5 inches to fill - how thick can vertical mortar be? The existing mortar elsewhere is very thin - like 1/8 inch but vertical joints shouldn’t be so noticeable- right?   Also, I plan to have someone paint the brick in the end :).

Yes, you can backfill the broken brick with mortar and use it. Masons have done just that since they were using natural stone.

An occasional mortar joint of an inch and half isn't the end of the world. Foundations that step vertically over rough footings often have large gap fills. The key is good mortar quality, and to understand that it may look odd. Avoid non-standard layout if you can.


Installing a Pilot Light Electrical Switch I want to replace a single pole wall switch that contols a closet light with a single pole pilot light switch. The pilot light is supposed to light when the closet light is on. The current wall switch is outside the closet. I looked in the switch box and there are two wires (ablack and a white) and a bare copper ground that are connected to the existing switch. The black and white wires are connected to two screws on the right side of the single pole switch. The new Leviton pilot light switch has a brass screw (top right), a black screw (bottom right), a silver screw (top left), and a green ground screw (bottom left). I know where the ground wire is connected. Question: How do I connect the black and white romex wires to the new pilot light switch so that the pilot is 'ON" when the switch is "ON"? There must be something simple that I am overlooking, but I can't figure this out. Help!

It appears the switch you've purchased requires a neutral and you do not have a neutral wire available at your switch (only the hot and the switched hot). You'll need to either run a line to the switch that includes a neutral, which is now a standard practice, or you need to find a switch that will work without a dedicated neutral. Finding the latter may be difficult as the versions with a dedicated neutral are fairly standard.


Is digging with a shovel near gas lines dangerous? I live in an area where 99% of homes have gas lines, but mine does not. I called 811 and the gas company showed up, but said since I have no gas service, no pipes run under my property. When the electrical company showed up, they said it is very unlikely there are no gas pipes, and seemed suspicious the gas company was diligent in marking the area. I'll only be using a hand shovel to dig. Are gas pipes made of a material that can be broken with a hand shovel?

I speak as a former engineer for a utility that provides both gas and electricity.
Gas lines are typically metal or plastic. If plastic, they're very likely thick enough to withstand most hand digging with a shovel. Laws typically require hand digging within some distance (18" in my state) of a marked line. If you do find a gas line with your shovel and notice any damage beyond, perhaps, very minor scraping, call the gas company back. They'll evaluate and will almost certainly be responsible for any costs of repairs since there were no markings.
It is also possible that there are underground lines that are not owned by a utility company and will not be marked.
Just dig reasonably. Age, manufacturing defects, and other factors can create all sorts of variations in the strengths of the lines, whether plastic or metal. Hand digging, though, is unlikely to create a spark that would ignite the gas, even in the very unlikely event your shovel does penetrate the line (still evacuate, call 911 AND the gas company, and get your neighbors away, too). Just don't smoke while you're digging!
Finally, while there may be warning tape or other devices, there are no guarantees! These things are installed by humans who don't always do everything perfectly, nor were they used in the oldest installations. Easements are a good indication; just be aware that an easement on a map may not reflect the actual location of a line, and a "blanket" easement gives NO indication of where the line might be.
Please also know that utility lines are almost always buried at proper depths; however, there is no guarantee that someone did not change the grading of the property after a line was installed. When people would ask me how deep our lines are buried, I'd answer "all the way to the bottom of the trench".
Update:
In response to comments discounting risk of gas-related fires:

Not something to take less than seriously (the hose aimed upward keeps the fireball from curling around and burning the firefighters from above and behind). The fire continues until the gas is shut off, despite the water.
The tank in the photo is probably the most common size for residential propane customers. Buried lines are likely big enough to eliminate any claims of a "small" fire... and how much damage will be done, even if the shutoff is not engulfed, in the time it would take to shut it off? Sure, there are always rare exceptions. Do you care to place a financial wager with me that has a 99% probability of your losing? Stakes are even higher here.


Can I add four new ducts to my HVAC trunk line? I am finishing my basement and need some insight from someone who understand HVAC design. I would like to know if my main trunk line (the 34' one in the diagram) can handle another four 6" ducts off of it that would heat the basement?

I do plan to add air returns. I just need to identify the venting strategy first.

I admire the drawing of your existing duct-work. Using a .1" external static resistance for the duct-work and guessing that you have a 3 ton A/C system that requires 1200 CFM of air flow, I would estimate  that the 8"X20" duct is almost fully utilized as is the 8"X8" duct. The 8"X14" duct could handle all the airflow required for the basement heating. You did say that you wanted to utilize the 8"X20" duct for the basement heating. You can do it but it may unbalance the existing airflow. You may have to increase the blower speed to achieve the required air flow in that duct and add dampers to the other 2 ducts to help control the increased air flow. Adding 4 heating registers would require approximately 320 CFM more air flow you may or may not have available. I would add the ducts you require and balance the resulting system as best I could and live with the results. If the blower that is installed in your present heating system is sized for more air flow and a higher static head than I allowed for say you could easily add the 4 registers you will need. If on the other hand your blower is maxed out the system will still heat but the 2nd. floor heating may suffer. This is the best I can do since I am not at you residence and I am only guessing as to the existing set-up. good luck with your project.  I think that you will be OK. I compared your home to mine 2000 sq. ft rqnch and finished basement. Mine heats great.


probable water damage to exterior outlet when power-washing house We power-washed our house 2 days ago. We believe water got into one of the exterior outlets which has caused a circuit to trip.  It won't reset. We turned on a fan for several hours yesterday on the outlet, but it still won't work. Any idea how long it should take to dry out, if moisture is what caused the problem?

If it is tripping a circuit breaker you have a lot of water in the box.

If it is a surface mounted bell box, then it can hold a lot of water for a long time.

You should turn the breaker off and remove the cover to drain it. Maybe blow it out with a compressor and allow it to dry out before replacing the cover.

Good luck and be safe!


AFCI trips when neutral and ground touched Is this normal?  I find an answer here that this is normal but I do not understand.    Can anyone add an explanation, please.

AFCI is Square D 20A HOM120CAFIC, Issue No. DP-3640 HACR Type

When you touch neutral to ground, two things are happening.

The "making" of that connection may  have had some initial arcing
You now have a neutral-ground fault

Many AFCI breakers have a design that is sensitive to ground faults, so a ground fault may trip those AFCIs. They are not rated for GFCI, however.


Could our new plumbing be to blame for our new downstairs toilet and upstairs spare bath being clogged? We need help troubleshooting our plumbing problem before we spend any more money on this house. We just spent quite a bit of money finishing our basement, where we added two bedrooms and a new full bathroom with two sinks and a shower for our children. We have never had plumbing issues before. We have a septic system. The  plumber had to jackhammer floor and change out pipes for this addition. Our upstairs has 2 full baths, but only the hall bath toilet is clogged. Sink drains fine. Then downstairs the toilet is also clogged. The sinks drain fine down there too,but the toilet gurgles when the water in sink is run and the pipe in shower drain has standing water in it! We have just our master bath toilet in working order! Any help and insight would be great. Ive looked up several things to try, but think this could be an issue caused by the new plumbing installed

Sounds like a clogged drain pipe or vent stack to me. Some toilet paper doesn't break down as well; such as charmin. I would switch to Scotts which breaks down rapidly.


How do I temporarily remove a Côr WiFi thermostat by Carrier to repair a plaster wall? The model number is TP-WEM01-A, installed with the "large backplate", as pictured below.

There are no visible screws, etc. I have the manual but it is no help.

The thermostat is simply pressed onto the mounting bracket and "snaps" into place.

See the installation guide or Carrier's video; at ~2:20, it shows the thermostat being mounted.

Since there is no description for removal, I'd try prying gently along the four edges, between thermostat and wall.

BTW, the owner's manual omits mounting the device.


Where are the flies in my Toronto condo coming from? My new 2-bedroom condominium, built in 2010, lies on the 9th floor and near Eglinton TTC station. I got no plants. My kitchen sink has no garbage disposal.  I keep all food or produce in the refrigerator, and nothing left in the open.
Now, and even in winter, I see around 1 fly at least once a week in my unit. But I can't figure out why! I identified 5 possible sources:
Doubtful Sources. It can't be the:

Garbage can. I empty the garbage every day, and  I don't see flies in the garbage can that I sanitize every week.

Balcony door and windows.  I never open them, especially in winter!!! It's shut and locked. Anyways, all my windows have insect mesh screens.

Front Door. I asked my condo's superintendent if the flies are flying from outside thru the building`s corridor and public area ventilation, then sneaking past the gaps at the side of my front doors. But he said all corridor air must pass a MERV 12 filter.

Condo's air vents. My condo has just 1 air intake — see picture underneath. Management arranges the air filter to be replaced every 6 months — no flies!

Possible Sources

Bathrooms ceiling fans? Perhaps the flies flew inside thru the bathroom ceiling fans, from the outside? But then why would there be flies outside in Toronto's frosty winters?

Kitchen Exhaust Fan? Same difficulty as 3.

Try fitting insect mesh to the air vents...

If, well when, you notice one that starts to collect dead flies then you have an indicator for the source.


Is OSB stiffer in one direction? I know that by construction, OSB is anisotropic -- it has different properties in different directions.
So I wonder: Is is this significant? And if so, which direction is the stiffer/stronger one? I'm mostly interested in bending stiffness when loaded.
I'm considering OSB3, 2500x1250x18mm, if that makes a difference. The project is a detachable bed into my MPV car. So the consideration is in which direction to cut the individual pieces from the board as some of them might be quite narrow (70mm width).

No. OSB can be laid in any orientation and will have the same strength as long as it begins and ends on a stud/joist. The thickness is what determines its strength, not which way you decide to lay it.
Good luck with your project!


Electric baseboard heater thermostat. My the upstairs of my house is filled with electric baseboard heaters that use these thermostats that are mounted right on each heater. My house is a bungalow and the upstairs gets no heat or AC. During a remodel the previous owner installed one of these in each room and the hallway (there are four total).

From the loads of googling that I've done, standard baseboard heat has some type of central location for the wiring. From this central location, a special thermostat then makes or breaks the electrical connection to turn the heaters on and off. My house has no such central location, each heater has one of these.

I would love to upgrade these thermostats to some type of central and more accurate thermostat but am unable to find something. Do any solutions exist to do this?

The thing about electric heating is that everything about it is cheap.   I mean, the heaters themselves are inexpensive only because they are simple things. But thermostats and accessories are the other kind of cheap... when somebody gets done paying $50 for a 2000W baseboard heater, they don't want to pay $40 for a quality 'stat, and switching 30A of current is a hard job, so corners have to be cut somewhere else. As a result, line-voltage electric 'stats tend to be J.U.N.K.

What you have there is a Cadet built-in 'stat.  It has two other structural handicaps:

it is right next to the heater. That's a bad place for any thermostat.  It's only there because that is easier to wire, and wiring line voltage is hard.
Like any line-voltage thermostat, it has the full current traveling through its internal parts, quite near the temperature sensor.  That current makes heat, which causes the sensor to misread, causing it to cut out below target temp.  This can't be compensated for, because the parasitic heat is the square of current, and they don't know how much current you'll actually flow through it.

Now, the first problem is cured by moving the thermostat away from the heater. However, this involves running mains wiring to the thermostat location, which because of the stiffness and Code requirements is much harder than running 24V thermostat wiring.  And it does nothing to solve the temperature problem which will exist with any line-voltage thermostat, but can be reduced by reducing the current per thermostat. As for the cheap problem, that's solved by buying quality. But quality (good temperature-holding) line voltage thermostats are unusual and thus expensive, and you simply will not find one that mounts on a Cadet heater like that because that's a lost cause.

24V power?

Line voltage heaters can be controlled by 24v thermostats.   We need a few bits out of the HVAC parts bin: a 24V transformer ($12) and one or more air conditioning contactors/relays ($12) which must be mounted inside an appropriate large junction box, or a RiB relay ($18) or an Aube style combo transformer-relay ($40).  The relays switch the power to the heater.

We also need some utility space to mount them, that could be inside the heater ends if you don't mind hearing the slight buzz of the transformer or the clack of the relay.  The transformer can be anywhere, the contactor(s) must be somewhere along the power line from panel to heater. Connections between transformer, relay and thermostat get made by light thermostat cable, I recommend 4-wire just for expansion options.  Routing is by the informal rules for doorbells and phone wiring.

24V thermostats are plentiful, and quality at their price point, since they do not need to switch power. Starting at $10, a quality Honeywell is $30, clear up to the $300 Nest.

Central control

People with gas/vent furnaces have central control because it is cheap. They would love to have per-room control because it solves many comfort problems and saves energy.  Individual room control is actually a virtue, a sought-after feature you get automatically with electric baseboards. I would not be quick to discard it.

Your assumption may be in error that the wires for all baseboards come from the service panel to a central point.  Each heater only needs 240V, any which way it can get it. They may be on separate breakers.  If so, having a central thermostat will be impossible with line voltage.  They do have 2-pole line voltage 'stats, but they only switch one pole thermostatically, the other is only off in the OFF position.  Regardless, running a whole house of power through a line voltage 'stat may exceed its capacity.

If you really want to do it,  you will need to run a branch of mains wiring, from either the service panel or the common feed point to the thermostat.

Doing this in 24V would allow one thermostat to control several circuit breakers' worth of heaters.  The relays could be anywhere between service panel and each heater.  There would need to be thermostat cable connecting thermostat, transformer and each relay, in a star layout (anywhere to anywhere as long as they are all connected).

Per-room control

In that case, my recommendation would be to switch to a thermostat mounted in a normal position on the wall.

If you use mains voltage wiring, you need a route to the thermostat location from either a) the heater, b) the service panel, or c) anywhere along the wiring to that heater (but for an enroute location, you will need 14"+ of slack, or to replace one end of the cable, and you will mount a junction box there).  From that location, you "tee" a 2-wire+ground cable to the thermostat location.  All this needs to be done with NM cable or conduit, and to mains wiring standards.

If you use 24V wiring, you also need to identify a location either at the heater, the service panel, or along the wiring between them whe a junction box can be mounted.  Here, a relay gets installed. With easy-to-wire thermostat cable, you need to connect the thermostat, the transformer, and the relay. Any 2 sides of the triangle will suffice.


How to remove bottom portion of kitchen faucet Trying to replace kitchen faucet due to leaks. Was able to remove the top faucet portion, but the connecting piece to the bottom of the faucet does not appear to want to come off. I took off the screws from the 2 screw holes seen below.
It appears the brass piece may be attached to the rusted piece ?
Should I use a hammer and a flathead to pry the brass piece off ?

Would someone be able to point me in the right direction ?

You're looking at a nut. That ring threads onto the nipple. It may not have been installed correctly. It's intended to be used as a clamp base, with the screws you removed tightening against the upper ring.

Partially reinstall the screws and use them to help turn the nut. Spray it with some penetrating oil or WD-40 to help loosen it.

You could also exercise the nuclear option and cut off the old faucet above to release it from below.


Having issues removing old tile I recently started a project to do new floors throughout a house I just bought. We are gonna do about 1600 sq ft in total including the kitchen 2 living rooms, dinning room, and hall. Previously the floors were linoleum that I ripped up and part of the house was the slab concrete and a area in the kitchen, the dinning room and front door entry way are old tile that the original owners probably installed. I tried to get the tiles up using a hammer and chisel but only succeeded in breaking the edges and was unable to get underneath the tile to break it up. At this point I was thinking of floating the living room up to where the tile is to level it to install a wood vinyl hybrid. The other side I may be able to use leveling compound to gradually increase the height to where the tile is. The old linoleum was just put on top and you could tell the areas that were not level in one side of the dinning room and the other side they installed carpet to deal with this issue. I am searching for options in either raising the subfloor or ways to get up old tile which may be porcelain, I am not fully sure but I know it is difficult to get up.

Since you were not able to do it by hand rent a power chipper, these are electric and have a blade that vibrates back and forth and this makes fast work of tile. I also have used an air chizzle with a wide blade. The problem may also be your technique I have not had two much trouble popping tile off with a flat chizzle, the trick is to hit them from the side at the base, many times they will break loose with 1 good smack. If you are striking down on the tile I have seen tile hold up to a hammer dropped from 8' that was well set to a concrete floor so a change in how you are trying to chip them up may save a rental fee.


Wiring a pole barn that is 750' from my main power box I have a barn that is 750' from my main panel. I would like to run power down to it myself because the power company quoted some crazy high prices. I plan on burying the wire and would like to know what size wire I should go with or if it is too far to do. Any help would be appreciated. The barn is going to have lights, some outlets and maybe a 220 outlet or two in case I need to power a welder from time to time, but thats about it. I would rather go bigger in case I need to expand in the future.

Long-distance circuits are a huge opportunity to spend way too much on wire unnecessarily.  Given the amount of money that is at stake here, let's debunk the usual 3% knee-jerk.

There are two huge mistakes when made when sizing circuits.

sizing for 3% voltage drop.  3% is simply wrong.  There's no support in Code for it anywhere (it's a suggestion, one place). This myth is widely spread by the companies who sell wire, for obvious reasons -- the first place they do it is in their "free" voltage drop calculators.  They default to 3%, and by that they mean literally 3.00% - if a cheaper option would come in at 3.25%, they will hide it, and "blame the computer" for being too literal.
Sizing for "breaker trip rating" instead of practical load.  Remember, loads are already supposed to be derated 20% (literally, breaker should be 125% of load), so sizing to breaker is always wrong.  Indeed, the simplest step of sizing to 80% of breaker usually results in a couple of wire size drops and thousand$ saved.  But you should go farther, and size to actual load.

Voltage drop is proportional to current right now

Remember that voltage drop in a circuit is a function of current actually flowed.  Here's what's not true: "The voltage drop the calculator says will always apply to all loads". Actually it will never apply to any loads.

Suppose someone puts in monster wire on their "50A" circuit and gets to 2.5% drop at 50A.

You draw 10A @ 120V.  You actually get 1.0% voltage drop.  Not what we expected, eh?
What happens if you have a "30A" dryer, which actually is 23A, and that actually is about 21A on the 230V side and 2A on the 120V side. So drops of 0.525%, 0.05%% and 0.575% per leg.  The 240V heating element sees 1.1% voltage drop, and the 120V mechanism sees a 0.575% voltage drop.
A 40A (9600W) heater sees 2.0% voltage drop, which it doesn't need -- heaters will work on 30-40% voltage drop.

Getting the idea how wasteful this is?

For a welder, consult with your manufacturer, but voltage drop is pretty normal for a variety of reasons inside welders, so it's probably not going to bother them all that much.

Transformers

Then there's using transformers to step up voltage.  All fixed-installation wiring is rated for 600V, and there is nothing wrong with stepping up power that high for the transition.  Transformers are expensive, but on a long haul, they're cheaper than wire.  Often, simply "stepping up" the circuit to 240V, and using a transformer at the far end to make 120V, is all you need.  I have plenty of postings about this.

Let's run some numbers in your case.

And to be clear, we'll be running aluminum wire, because running so much copper isn't even stupid.  Use the goop and torque to spec.

Scenario 1: Obedient Consumer.
Let's do exactly what the voltage drop calculator and wire companies say we should do. Compute on breaker trip and stick to 3%.  3/0 wire would have 3.05% drop and the computer says "no" to that and computers are smarter than us, so we are forced to 4/0 wire. 750' of 4-wire 4/0 URD will cost $2145, trench it at 24" and we're done.

Scenario 2: Compromises.
On a 50A breaker, actual draw shouldn't be more than 80% or 40A.  We go for 4% voltage drop at 40A. This comes up as 1/0 wire.  750' of 4-wire 1/0 URD will cost $1297.

Scenario 3: 480V Transformers.
In this case we use 15 KVA transformers and breaker for 60A (which is more power).  The transformer halves the current, which also halves the voltage drop, and voltage drop is only half as important anyway, since it's coming off 480V instead of 240V.  So now we can happily use much smaller wire.  240V at 40A becomes 480V@20A.   With #4 wire, voltage drop @ 20A draw happens at 2.45%.   Even if we max out the circuit to 60A@240V (30A@240V), voltage drop is only 3.67%.   Further, we only need 2 wires between the transformers, because neutral is created locally by the transformer.

The two 15KVA transformers cost $2000.
3-wire #4 SEU is only $555.

Scenario 4: Mini-transformer.
In this case, we only aspire to provision 20A (16A) practical, but we use a (smaller) transformer so we can transmit at 240V on 2-wire, even though we are only using 120V.  Fortunately, these smaller 5 KVA transformers are readily available on Craigslist for about $100. If we go for only one 20A circuit, then we base voltage drop on 8A@240V and the calc says we're just fine with 6 AWG aluminum at 3.58% drop.

However, instead, let's go for two 120V circuits at 20A breaker (that's table saw and dust collector). That will realistically be about 24A together, or about 12A@240V, but let's assume circuit continuous max of 16A x2, so 16A@240V. Voltage drop calc says that happens at 4.57% with 4 AWG Al.

one used 5 KVA transformer for $100
3-wire #4 SEU for $555.

And hey, that's the same #4 wire we use on our 480 scenario, and we know we can pump that to 60A or even 80A with better transformers.


Installing a dimmer switch to multiple lights I have read the wiring configuration for a regular switch. Is this the same configuration for a dimmer switch? One switch, several lights. I don't need a three way switch do I?

A dimmer switch can replace a regular switch as long as the lights/light bulbs are dimmable.

A three way switch is a way to have two switches control one light.


Gfci open hot but trip indicator lit I have a GFCI receptical with the trip indicator amber.  It wiil not reset and the testor is showing open hot. 1. How can I get a lit test light, if there is an open hot?  I replaced the receptical and got the same results. When I open the circuit breaker, the test light goes out. 2'. What should I try next?

The GFCI receptacle has power on the LINE side, and that is where the status lights are powered from.  The GFCI is in tripped mode, which means no power comes through to the LOAD side, which includes the sockets on the face of the GFCI and anything attached to the LOAD screws.

Troubleshooting the GFCI

First, it's rarely the GFCI. But let's exclude it anyway.  To do this, we must isolate the GFCI.  That means we must remove all wires from the LOAD terminals of the GFCI - all of them, don't go thinking you can leave neutral.

Now, with absolutely nothing on LOAD, the GFCI should run through its paces.  It should reset, and Test should trip it.  The magic 8-ball tester's GFCI function should also trip it if it is grounded (otherwise it's supposed to not trip, don't try to modify the GFCI's wiring so it does).

Does the GFCI refuse to behave with nothing plugged in and nothing on LOAD? Then it is the GFCI.  Otherwise, it is not, and never was.

If the GFCI isn't bad, the downline wiring is

People have a dreadful habit of using the LOAD terminals merely as extra screws to put on more wires.  Never do this.  If you don't  understand what LOAD actually does, don't  use it.  If you don't actually intend to protect the downline, don't use it.   Move those wires to LINE and leave the warning tape on LOAD.

However, it is a fact that your downline wiring has a problem.  Moving it to LINE would mask that problem.  So you may want to leave it on LOAD and actually fix the problem.

To start, unplug everything plugged into that part of the circuit.  If that solves it, then an appliance has a ground fault. Plug them into kitchen GFCIs one at a time until you find the one tripping GFCIs.
it may be a wiring problem where a wire (possibly neutral) is faulting to ground.  That can happen in crowded boxes where a ground wire kisses a neutral terminal.   Or in metal boxes where the receptacle or switch is pressing against the side of the box.
it may be mis-wiring, typically with shared/borrowed neutrals, or one of several mistakes that can happen when a switch is in the same box with the GFCI.  If this is the first time installing a GFCI here, this is likely the case.


Attic fan installation I am wanting to install an attic fan over the gable vent and had a couple questions.

There is a 2x4 running through the center of the vent. Can I cut this in the middle so it doesn’t block the fan? I will be mounting the fan on a plywood frame attached to the studs next to the vent.
The fan comes with a 15’ cord but the attic outlet is maybe 25, away. Can I simply use an extension cord or do I need to tap into the attic lights and run wire to the fan location?

The side studs are 51” apart and the opening is 10”x15”. I was planning on putting a 17” fan over top.

Thanks for the advice!

Yes, you can cut enough of the vertical 2x4 to install your vent fan.
Because 1) The 2x4 is “flat” against the gable end wall and is only used for nailing the sheathing (and presumably the siding) 2) there is no ridge beam, 3) spacing of the 2x4’s is 51” so the gable end wall is not structural.
If the “wall” seems a bit wobbly at the vent after you remove a portion over the vent opening, you could add horizontal stiffeners above and below the vent opening from adjacent 2x4’s.


How should I insulate garage walls? I am remodeling a one car garage in an old house.  As part of the remodeling, I am taking all the insulation out (in the walls that have insulation).   It is a combination of faced and unfaced fiberglass insulation and rigid insulation.  The fiberglass insulation is all jambed into place (not sure if it is as an artifact of time or the installation was not done right).  The wall shared with the house has no insulation!

I'm leaving intact the vapor barrier (tar paper) between the 2x4 studs and the exterior walls that have siding.  The studs are a variety of distances ranging from 13"-18" apart.  Most of the studs are a non-standard 18" apart center to center (but even those are not exact).  The house is in Central Texas.

I am thinking of buying 24" faced fiberglass insulation (pink one) and cutting it to be 1/2" bigger than the opening (whatever the opening is in the bay I am working on).  Installing the faced side towards the inside of the garage.  Is this the right thing to do around all the exterior walls?   So that I don't have too many wasted strips can I tape (what type of tape do I need?) two pieces together and keep the integrity of the vapor barrier and insulation?

Also, I see that Owens Corning has a FastBatt product that doesn't have flanges.  This is supposed to be held between the studs by friction against the studs and not by staples through the flanges.  Any opinions on this product?   I would like to use this in the shared wall with the house.  Given that my access to the wall is from the "outside" of the house, I won't have the ability to stable the flanges to the interior of the 2x4 studs.  Hence, I was thinking of installing this type of insulation with the faced part towards the house sheetrock and let friction keep it in place.  Then, install some type of vapor barrier on the side of the studs facing the garage.  Then, install the fireproof 5/8" drywall.

Thoughts on both the exterior walls and the shared wall are appreciated.

Vapor barrier (if any) goes on the warm side of the wall. That's the inside for those of us in the frozen North (on average, for the greater part of the year.) In central Texas I'm guessing that might be the outside, on average.

Best solution to messy irregular stud bays might be damp-spray (aka glue-spray) cellulose (not a DIY product, but really good at dealing with irregularities and no vapor barrier is needed.)


No ground wire connected to the 3-way switch I am no expert in electrical stuff as i have never done it before. We recently moved into a new house and i don't really like the look of the old switches. I was looking around them and i noticed the light switches don't have a grounding wire attached to the switch itself. BUT there is a wire (seems to be grounding) that is attached to the metal box itself near the back.

is it safe to just replace the switch and leave the grounding screw empty in this case?

Random info, the sockets seem to be grounded properly with a wire. It's just the switches that are not.

You could either use a self grounding switch, or use the other grounding screw to attach a pigtail out to the new switch.

To create the pigtail:

Get a short length of green or bare wire, the same size as the largest wire in the box.
Attach one end of the wire to the box using the screw highlighted above (remember to wrap the wire clockwise around the screw, and tighten the screw).
Attach the other end of the wire to the grounding terminal on the new switch (again wrapping in a clockwise direction, and tightening the screw).


How do I run PEX to exterior plumbing? I am replacing some failed galvanized water pipe indoors. Two of the existing galvanized pipes poke straight through the exterior wall of the house, right above the foundation, and have hose bibs attached to the end. I am replacing the indoor pipe with PEX, but I'm stumped when it comes to how to get the PEX to connect to exterior plumbing. PEX, from what I've read, will degrade rapidly in the presence of UV light.

My goal is to attach a hose bib fitting to the straight across port of a tee at exterior, and connect some 3/4" LDPE poly pipe to the perpendicular port of the tee. The LDPE poly pipe will go out to a couple posts in the yard and have hose bib fittings on them.

I was planning on using PVC for the exterior plumbing, but I understand that plain white PVC cannot be used indoors for any supply plumbing, only DWV. Am I allowed some leeway to have a short (6-12") stub of PVC sticking through the exterior wall so the PEX can be connected to it?

I have a second question which is... as I have only a hole drilled through the siding of the house, how do I securely fasten the pipe coming through so that movement outside won't transfer inside?

Since you mentioned freezing in some comments, I recommend this:

This is a freeze-proof hose bib, complete with anti-siphon valve to prevent water running backwards from your yard into your supply plumbing should the pressure go off.


How to stack a portable countertop / tabletop Dishwasher on top of a front load washing machine? I have limited space because all the cabinets were already setup long back. A Bosch front load washing machine (60cm (d) x 60cm (b) x 85 cm (h) is placed in this space. There is a gap of 60.5 cm from the top of the washing machine free as of now.

Can a portable countertop / tabletop dishwasher (http://levant.beko.com/dishwashers/dtc36810w/) of dimensions 59.5cm (h) x 55cm (b) x 50cm(d) be stacked on top of the front load washing machine?
What's the best way to go about it and any precautionary measures needed?

Updated/Edited:

The dishwasher is not a Full size one but a table top dishwasher designed to be placed on countertops. Example below.

As there is limited clearance and only 1 cm gap left considering both the appliances height, am planning to place a plywood top of 10 mm thickness and size 60 mm by 60 mm on top of the washing machine with an anti slip map.
Is this a feasible option or some other material will work?
Will the washing machine be able to take the weight and handle any vibrations the countertop dishwasher may have?

Image of what i am planning:

This can definitely be done, although the way I did it was to create a countertop over the washing machine, boxing in the washing machine, (the same as any countertop you would normally sit the tabletop dishwasher) thereby making them separate entities.
All that needed to be done was to drill a fair sized hole for the pipes and cables to fit through the countertop behind the dishwasher, not visible, and the dishwasher can come forward to be flush with the countertop. It is never going to topple over, why would it, it's only the door that will venture out  and that won't topple it. (I have a Bosch countertop dishwasher, and it has never ever unbalanced) I'm even considering boxing in the dishwasher so that the microwave can sit on top. (I don't have any cabinets above, to get in the way.) and I can reach it quite easily, like an eye level oven.
The only thing that may be a safety issue is if all appliances are sharing one outlet. I would make sure they each had their own  so as not to overload it. Overall, it has worked for me and it's all next to the kitchen sink so the plumbing is all in one place, nice and tidy.


Max wattage on 120v outlet on 20A 80% breaker on 3 phase I have an office in a building supplied with 3 phase electricity in the United States.  There are several standard household 120V outlets in my office, each connected to a dedicated, 20 amp circuit with an 80% rated breakers.  Assuming I will plug in an appliance continuously with a power factor of 1, am I correct in assuming that each receptacle on one of these dedicated circuits will support up to a maximum of 120V x 20A x 1PF x sqrt(3) x. 80 = 3325.5 watts? Or is it standard to somehow downgrade the electricity to single phase 120V when the 208V comes through the panel, effectively eliminating the square root of 3 term in my calculation above,leaving a maximum wattage of 1920?  Thanks.

No.  You don't multiply by the square root of 3 unless you're drawing all 3 phases in a delta configuration, and then, you multiply the pole-pole voltage (208) not the pole-neutral voltage (120).

When dealing with a single phase of wye or split-phase, it's exactly what it says on the tin:

120V x 20A x PF1.00 x 80%.  1920W.

It's not "downgraded somehow", 3-phase wye service is simply three single-phase supplies that happen to be out of phase with each other 120 degrees.   Just as split-phase is two single-phase supplies that happen to be 180 deg out of phase with each other.


How noticeable should the seam be on a quartz counter install? This is my first question on the DIY stack so be gentle with me!
Background
We just had new quartz counters installed in our kitchen renovation. We have done everything else our selves, but we figured we would use professionals for the counter top since we wanted to make sure it looked perfect. It is a medium sized L shaped counter area and due to the size of the counter the installer informed us that it would require two seams and gave us a few options for where they could locate the seams. We were a bit concerned about this but he assured us that you would not notice the seams unless you really looked for them.
Fast forward a few weeks to the installation date. The counters looked FANTASTIC as they were being installed. Unfortunately, once the installers finished and were ready for us to sign the satisfaction form we took a look at the seams and they are very noticeable. We refused to sign the satisfaction form at this point in time because we wanted to investigate it further.
Question
How noticeable should the seams be for a quartz counter installation? Obviously this depends on the texture and color of the counter, but is it something that should ever be painfully obvious? Do the pictures below illustrate what can be expected for this type of counter?

Update 1
Based on the feedback I received from this site, as well as a few other companies I contacted for consultation, I have determined that this is NOT the normal for this type of counter installation. The general consensus is:

There is a pretty serious shade difference on either side of the seam which is not acceptable.
There should only be a single seam for this type of installation.
Most likely the company was trying to cut costs by using a single slab of the material.

I have contacted the company that provided the counter tops and they are sending someone out to take a look at the counters and see if there is anything they can do. I will update this post again once we get to a final solution.
Update 2
The company has been great to work with to resolve this issue. Unfortunately, because the counter was already cut they couldn't do anything about the double seams, which is annoying. However, they did have their crew out to my house twice to get the seams as minimal as possible (both look great now) and to fix a few chips in the counter. I would leave the following advice for anyone else having a counter install:

Be sure to ask that the the company installing your counter use as few seams as possible. This is likely going to increase the material cost for the counter but is well worth it in the long run.
Ask for opinions from the installer on your counter selection. The color we went with in this case is very difficult to install because the seams are very visible and it is difficult to mix the filler to match. This is the consensus we received from multiple installers. If we would have known this, we would have definitely gone with something that is easier to install.
Think twice before going with Quartz. We went with the top of the line Quartz so it was very comparable from a cost standpoint to granite. We were sold on the fact that it is zero maintenance and is supposedly as durable as granite. Unfortunately, this is not the case. It is very difficult to clean well and it chips extremely easily. We have seen small chips from dropping a very light weight ceramic plate on the counter from ~1 foot. The plate didn't even chip or break!

I wouldn't sign the form if you were told that you wouldn't be able to notice the seams.  As Jack says, they are in horrible locations.  But the #1 thing I am thinking about is I have had granite and quartz installed on at least 30-40 kitchens, with at least 15-20 Ls.  You have two sheets, not 3 and your seam is in the corner.  If they are using smaller pieces they could easily be using leftovers from other jobs, maybe really costing them nothing more than labor.  I would have never allowed them to install 3 slabs there.  That is the biggest mistake.

I have had many many companies propose something like this, a couple with no-see guarantees.  I took two of them up on it in the beginning and they both looked like yours.  Got the first one at 1/3 cost and told them to take the second one out.  Never did I go for the three slabs.

Now the other issue is the install itself.  To me - and I am just seeing a picture - it looks like the slabs aren't exactly level with each other.  They may be off by 1/128th of an inch but it looks like they are off.  Then you have the epoxy filler which was not mixed with a matching sparkle nor was it sanded/buffed properly at the site.  I have paid a lot for high quality quartz and don't have pictures but the seams are much smaller than yours and really you couldn't see them unless you put a spot light on them.

The question is did you get what you paid for.  Did this cost you $500-800 and you are expecting better?  If you paid full/normal cost you probably just need them to come take the counters.  You obviously aren't happy now.  Let me tell you by the looks of your seams, they aren't going to look this good in 3-4 years.  So you are seeing them in their best state.


Is a cracked roof title considered cosmetic I'm in the inspection step when buying a new property. The inspector found a few cracks on the roof. It's a tile roof and is 23 years old. A roof leak was found but it only reaches the attic... How much time realistically before I need a new roof and are the cracked titles considered cosmetic or should they be fixed or credited before I close?

Tile roofs can last anywhere from 35 to 50 years, depending on the roofing material installed under the tile. Cracked tile often happen from people walking on them during pressure cleaning or gutter cleaning. Some cracked tiles could even be from the initial installation as inspectors don't usually inspect each tile.
There are special adhesives designed to fix a cracked tile. It is applied with a caulk gun and prevents you from having to break loose the old tile to remove it, which can damage and crack the membrane below.  The adhesive comes in many roofing colors.
You should definitely get the roof leak that you found corrected before closing.


How to hook up C wire to Crown air handler Sorry for the newbie question, but I would like to hook up a C wire so that I can get a Nest, Ecobee, etc.  My current thermostat is just a regular battery operated Honeywell and looking at the current thermostat wire, I have the extra blue/brown wires available, but they aren't being used and not connected to anything.  I looked at the control board at the handler and there already is a wire on the C terminal going to the air conditioner condenser outside.

In the picture below - the top red (R), white (W), green (G), yellow (Y) and the unconnected brown/blue wires are going back to the thermostat .  The middle white (C) and red (YR) wires go to the condenser.

I assume I need to connect the blue wire from the thermostat to the C, but what do I do with the existing white wire that is already connected?   Can both of the wires go on that terminal?

I also attached the wiring diagram for my air handler

Get a scrap bit of wire, that's the same thickness as the other wires.
Disconnect the wire that is currently in the C terminal.
Strip both ends of the scrap piece of wire.
Connect one end of the scrap piece of wire to the C terminal.
Using a twist-on wire connector (or other connector), connect the wire that was previously connected to the C terminal with the new C wire, and the other end of the scrap bit of wire.

When finished, the two C wires should be connected together, along with the wire that's connected to the C terminal.

This type of connection is known as a "pigtail".


Wiring two 3-way switches with 2 light fixtures and 1 outlet Can someone please tell me how to wire this I searched everywhere on the web and I found nothing.

Your teacher is wrong.  You can't do that.

Between the lamps you need four wires:

Two travelers, since they need to go past  the lamps
A switched-hot, since both lamps need switched-hot
A neutral, since both lamps need neutral

That's four wires plus ground, all of which are part of the same subcircuit.

Since the four wires are related and part of the same subcircuit, they must be part of the same cable.  Your instructor plans to use two 14/2 cables to provide the 4 conductors.  That is a violation of NEC 300.3(b), all related wires must be in the same cable.  Why? Eddy current heating and vibration causing fatigue breaks, we're dealing with AC here.

He also forgot neutral to the switch box

His installation violates 404.2(c), which requires neutral come to every switch box.  That is a NEC 2011 requirement to support "smart switches".

So let's reboot this deal

Assuming these lights and switches are ~18" apart, this will not work with the segments of wire he specified.   However, this is how you do it.  I chose colors by function (red=switched hot, yellow=2 travelers).  Common cables may not come in those colors; whatever, that's what colored tape is for.

This diagram omits ground because it doesn't require any thinking and it just clutters up the diagram.

Note how you will have a single, /3 cable between the switches.  The /3 cable only needs to go between the switches.

Don't do one of the stupidest things you can do in a 3-way circuit, running the messengers through the lamp boxes for no reason whatsoever.  Having the /3 cable stop at the lamps is useless, and far worse, it obliges you to have 3 splices of 2 wires each, which adds a bunch of box fill (12-13.5 cubic inches) to a standard octagon box that's already way too small for that.  It is simply insane to do this.

Once you've reached the far switch, you double back on a different route,  with /2 cable to the lamps.

This assures we comply with 300.3b (all related wires together in same cable), avoids using expensive 14/4 cable, and complies with 404.2c (neutrals at switches).


I need help identifying this shower valve Could anyone help me identify this valve so i can get replacement parts.

This looks like you have a Single Valve Control Shower .. where yours has temperature settings on it. Maybe this is your tempering valve, it can also be a Pressure Balance Valve or what sometimes can be referred to as anti-scalding valves these valves prevent burns from water when say the toilet is flushed - all the cold water flows to the toilet and that leaves only hot for the shower hence you get scorched.

More and better pictures will be needed if you want to know brand and model information.

BTW - the valve in the back might be part of the assembly and actually have the manufacturer model or info on it.


Can a wet vac be effectively used as a pump? Can a wet vac effectively be used as a pump to move water?

I figure if a basement floods, that this can serve as double duty.

A pump can operate continuously to move water between two locations.  The wet vac will suck water into the cannister, but you'll need to continuously stop, and dump that water, before it reaches the top of the vacuum.  If you're looking at a flooding risk, I'd want the pump.


How to paint / decorate both sides of a plasterboard? This christmas for a family home DIY project we've used plasterboard.
Not being DIY savvy, thought it would be a nice and easy to material to work with, and it was!

Now we would like to decorate our little creation, however, both inside and out (ie, both sides of the plasterboard).

Here are the things we've been wondering:

Is it possible to go and just paint faces of the plasterboard (tapered edge type)?
If indeed possible, what kind of paint shall we use?
If we can't just paint it, what kind of "treatment" can we apply to make it possible to paint? (please explain for each side of the plasterboard)
If one side is paintable but the other isn't (without treating), what can be done to decorate the other side?

Yes, you can paint plasterboard directly - it's usually just paper on the outside. (Moisture resisting plasterboard tends to have a foil on on side though, which probably won't take paint well).

What paint you use will depend what finish (or colours) you want, but you're unlikely to have problems using either emulsion or undercoat and gloss (or matt or eggshell) topcoat.

Here's some information about plasterboard.


This wall can be demolished, right? Seems obvious to me that there is no load bearing on this wall since the wall stops at this point, but would love a second opinion.

Your reason given (the wall stops - plenty of bearing walls do that) is not sound, but by cursory examination you appear to have a clearspan roof supported by beams that would have no reason to depend on this wall for support, so you are likely good to go. I'm guessing 1960's or early 1970's era based on the style (or when the style was popular in my area, anyway.)

As Ed notes, turn off the power first...


How can I install the electrical and plumbing for an aquarium filtration system through an exterior wall? I have a large fish tank in my house, and would like to run a 1\4" reverse osmosis/deionization (RO/DI) top off water tube through an exterior wall into my house so that I can have the top off tank outside.

Can I drill a hole through the wall, caulk in a 3\4" PVC pipe, run my tube and then fill the gap left in the PVC with fireproof putty? I'm in Los Angeles where the weather is niceish, and the tube will be from a covered patio where it would be protected from elements.

Is there a better way to get an electrical cable out (for the pump) and 1\4" tubing back in (for the water) through my exterior wall?

I don't claim to know California building code. That said:

I don't think the building code cares what you do with your aquarium piping, so long as it doesn't connect to your residential plumbing. Do what you want with that top-off tube.

As for electrical, if you want to run wire then it's a bigger deal and there are lots of rules you'll need to follow. Too many to list here.

Essentially, you'll be looking to install an outdoor outlet that you can plug your pump into (If you try to permanent wire it, then even more rules will apply).


How deep should I drill a pilot hole in concrete for a 2 inch screw? For fixing a 2 inch screw on concrete wall, how should I drill for good strength and no damage to the wall. I tried a 2 inch screw and drilled for 1 1/2 inch and later tried to screw it into the hole. But the problem I faced is that after the end of the screwing step, a circular portion came out of the wall wall and it became a very big hole.

Now how to fix this?

You should drill the hole at least 1/4" deeper then the screw depth.  Also make sure to blow out all of the dust from the hole once you are done drilling.

If you use a concrete screw like a Tapcon you don't need to deal with plugs or expansion bolts.


Best paint (not spray) for outdoor plastic? What's the best type of paint (not spray) for outdoor plastic? Something that will last almost forever and comes in gallon+ buckets, and is not cost-prohibitive?

Krylon has a brush on for plastic paint in limited colors. It's their fusion brand.
I have no vested interest in this company and the picture is from there web site.


How to secure the bottom of a moving box? How to secure the bottom of a moving box, so that it doesn't accidentally open up while lifting when it is filled with heavy items?

Searching on Google suggests that I should use a good packaging tape and do H taping and H+X taping for heavier loads. My question is, "Is this enough?" Will it ensure that the box won't open up?

Last time, I used a 2" styrofoam sheet and cut it in the same dimensions as the moving boxes and placed it in the bottom to ensure that a box doesn't accidentally open from the bottom while lifting. However, I am pretty sure there is a better way of doing this.

The strength of an unmodified box comes from the folds of the flaps at the bottom (or top) and creates a long lever arm of sorts that is secured at the point where the tape is applied. If you trust the material from which the box is constructed, your efforts to secure the flaps properly will prevent a drop-out of the contents.

If you do not trust the material sufficiently, you can reinforce those folded points with corner material. I recently received a shipment of long slender metal rods. Inside the box, the rods were secured to heavy weight card-stock angles, similar to aluminum or steel flange-type material.

Of course, if you don't have easy access to such material and yet do not trust the existing material, reinforcement of those folded points with load-spreading design is your best bet.

I've applied hot glue angles for the same purpose, extending the angles up the sides about three inches and into the box floor the same amount. Liberal application of hot glue provides for reassuring stiffness. In my more recent case, the shipment was a machine tool base of 75 pounds of rectangular steel.

Your previous method of using foam sheet would tend to distribute the load more evenly than without, presuming that you do not have point-force items in the box.

A table leg will bypass all of the above suggestions, causing higher forces on a small segment of the box. Sometimes it's not how you close it up as how well the inside forces are spread around.

Good quality packing tape, perhaps a 3M or Gorilla brand product is suggested. Some of my tape purchases barely made it out the door before it started peeling away!


Is there any way to use a UPS properly when there's no ground wire in the outlet? (Uninterruptible Power Supply) Is there any way to use a UPS properly when there's no ground wire in the outlet?
I have a GFCI setup and an outlet with a ground wire but it's not a real ground (apparently; I don't quite understand GFCI). My UPS's that have a 'wiring fault' light indicate a wiring fault (lit up).
My UPS's will sometimes give out (and my computer's reboot), even on low wattage load (like less than 50%), and I suspect it's due to not having proper ground. But they give out even when there's no apparent surge/brown out, no thunderstorm, etc. Should that be happening? Would this not happen if the outlet were properly grounded in a modern way?
Thanks

While a UPS, and many surge protectors as well, will show wiring faults equivalent to a magic 8-ball, a UPS should never actually use ground, except if there is a true fault. A brownout or blackout should trigger the USP battery/inverter but not actually put any current on the ground wire. In fact, if it did then it would immediately trip the GFCI (assuming that some of that current should have been going on neutral).
More likely is a faulty UPS. The most common fault, unless it is brand new, is a battery that no longer holds a charge properly. UPS detects fault, switches to battery/inverter and promptly fails. Most small UPS now have user-replaceable batteries, though whether that makes sense or not depends on the age of the UPS (other parts can fail over time) and whether it might be time to upgrade to a larger UPS for other reasons.


What kinds of contractors deal with basement/foundation flooding/leaks? Winter is coming to an end. All the snow/ice in my back lawn is thawing. A massive vertical crack has opened in my basement wall (the foundation) and water is hemmoraging in. I tried parging it with hydraulic cement but it literally is jetting out of the wall and the cement won't hold.

What kind of contractor do I call for this? Mason? GC? Home emergency restoration services?

Just for future readers, I ended up bringing in structural engineers who found my basement wall was bowing from the stress of the soil outside the house (becomming water-logged, freezing, expanding, etc.). This was also the cause of the vertical crack/fissure that opened up, which was my chief complaint in the original question above.

The solution they sold me on was to bring in 5 heavy-duty steel I-beams and anchor them between the basement floor and the rafters above. $2700 after everything.


How to address minor mold problem in paint prep A little bit of localized roof leaking occurred over the winter above the bathroom.  We have addressed the roof problem, so no leaking is occurring any more, but now I'm getting ready to paint the bathroom.  One ceiling corner has a bit of mold around the corner.  How should I prepare this area before painting?

There are various mold-inhibiting primers such as Kilz and Zinsser (links shown only as examples).

If there is still visible stain, wash with dilute bleach and let dry.
Apply the mold-inhibiting primer appropriate for your paint type (oil, latex, etc.).
Paint with with your choice of material.


Why does my photo sensor activate during the day? Our home has a Malibu 300 watt transformer for landscape lights.  The lights are on during the day.  I have checked the photo sensor and have replaced it but the lights keep coming on regardless of what I set the transformer to except for "off".  There is a delay of about 15 seconds.  Malibu is out of business. Am trying to see if there is a fix to this or if I need to buy a new transformer.

Old photocells do age.  Sort of by convention, they are often designed to fail "on". For instance most street lights and discharge loghts use $15 replaceable hockey puck photocells, designed to fail "on" so city staff can distinguish a failed sensor from a failed bulb, and go up in the boom lift with the right part.  The manufacturer will happily sell you a special model designed to fail "off", if you really want that.

New photocells have a different "problem".  They have a microcomputer and a clock, and are able to observe light levels over 24 hours and "learn" what night and day look like.   This makes them resistant to shadowy locations or slow accumulation of dirt.  However they also need 24-48 hours to get acclimated, and if you cut power to them, they may forget and have to learn all over again.

That last bit is important because some people like to put their photocell lights on a switch or mechanical timer too... their modern sensor will never perform right for them.

The transformer is probably solid, the sensor not so much.  You also have to watch voltages, you need a different sensor on the 120/230V versus the 12/24V side.  You may be better off bypassing the sensor on the transformer, then using a modern photo sensor upstream to switch the entire system on and off.


How do I to choose a new light fixture for the bathroom? I've got a bathroom that has a single 75 watt bulb light fixture. It's wall mounted. Unfortunately, it's old and there isn't enough light. I'd like to replace it with a sconce that has 2 or 3 bulbs. How do I determine what type of sconce to get? How many watts? How do I know if the circuit will be overloaded? I'm going to hire an electrician to do the work, but I want to buy the right fixture for him to install. The home was built in the '60s.

Two factors affect what light bulbs you can place. The first is the branch circuit load, which  is the total amperage (watts / volts * safety margin). That must be less than the rating of the circuit breaker. The safety margin is 1.25, which gives you a loading of 80% of the breaker's capacity. This is to account for some resistance loss in the wire, initial startup surge, etc. See also How do you plan capacity for electrical circuits? and the National Electric Code if you're in the US. (NEC basic rules and design)

The second factor which will matter less since you're replacing the fixture is the heat loading of the fixture. When you see a fixture that has a wattage rating for a bulb on it, that rating is typically far lower than what the power cord is capable of handling. The rating is based on the amount of heat that would be generated by an incandescent bulb of that wattage. Overloading that is a fire hazard.


Security light and smart bulbs I have been trying to use smart bulbs in my dual head motion sensor fixture. I get them paired up with my wifi but they go off line rather quickly. I realized that I was pairing them in test mode on new fixture. Is the power cut to the fixture when I change it to dusk to dawn? Could yhat be why my connection keeps getting interrupted? The switch operating the fixture is always on, but does the setting change the power to it?

Your control systems are incompatible

This is one we see all the time.  People try to dim their remote controlled fan.  Or a timer with a motion sensor.  Or get their modern era smart switch to play nice with a series dimmer in 3-way mode.

Bottom line: one thing must control the light.  One thing.  It must be the master of the light.  And then, other things which are compatible may interact with it, if they are compatible.  So for instance a smart dimmer that supports compatible remotes, and then, a compatible remote.

And if you need to glue a bunch of crazy contradictory control methods together, then you need to use smart-home/Internet-of-things technology.  Like a Wemo or Alexa hub.  Then, you install each control method so it talks to the hub, and write software code to define what each control does in each existing condition.

In your case, you need to tear apart that motion sensor kit (motion sensor + lamp stalk combo) and replace the motion sensor with a motion sensor that talks to your smart home platform.  Then, you define in software "if motion sensor detects and not daylight and light not on, turn on".


Why does my electric fence arcing cause my LED lights to flicker? Barn.  Electric fence.  Electric fence drifted a little too close to the non-electric fence and it started arc'ing between them with every pulse.  Very small arc, across about 1mm.

No big deal - happens once in a while and is easy to fix.

BUT, this time, I happened to walk into the barn with all of the lights off while this was happening and I just happened to see all of my 100W LED flood lights pulse the very slightest of light ... with ... every ... single ... arc.

Why is this happening ?  I do think these LED flood lights are on the same circuit breaker as the electric fence energizer, but of course they are also on a lightswitch and that lightswitch was OFF.

So how do my LED floods get a tiny little flash of electricity to produce a tiny little glow every single time the electric fence pulse makes an arc ?

No, this does not happen during normal (non arc-ing) operation.

Thanks.

LED fixtures use a tiny fraction of the current of an equivalent incandescent lamp, and it could be that you're seeing induced current from adjacent wires. In other words, the arcing circuit is "transmitting" energy to adjacent wires and the LED circuits are "receiving" enough electrical energy to make some of the LEDs in the arrays glow dimly.

It's possible if you have an AM radio turned on you might hear the arcing fence through the radio from a mile away.

There may be other contributing factors, such as a poor ground connection to the fence charger, or maybe the LED circuits don't isolate both the hot and neutral lines at the circuit breaker.

Ideally you would have the wiring inspected by a qualified electrician in case there's a safety issue.


How can I fix a garbage disposal with crushed glass in it? I have a garbage disposal that had a shot glass fall in. It got ground up. The disposal got jammed; I unjammed it and now it makes a glass grinding noise because of the shards inside.

How do I clear the glass?

What do I need to do to fix this?

The easy way: remove the large shards with tongs.  If you're having a hard time, cut up an old kitchen sponge, make sure it's soft (moist) and put it in the tongs as a bait for all the glass shards.  They'll stick in the sponge just like they would your hand.  Then, just hope that the small pieces will go down the drain with time.

The hard way: unhook the disposal (turn off the power first), take it outside, turn it upside down, and really work on it with a garden hose.  Wear gloves and verify by operating it via the screw on the base to make sure you got everything before you take it back in.  Don't do this anywhere someone would go barefoot.


Gap between sleeve and chimney structure Currently, my chimney is brick and has a 8" type B metal duct pipe coming out of it as a sleeve, which exhausts home heat and waterheater appliances.

The chimney was dormant for many years before I started using it after some remodeling and reengineering home infrastructure. However, I didn't fill the space between the masonry and the sleeve. And maybe some 18" into the chimney from the top of bricks starts the old sleeve, which was ceramic I believe or made of a similar material as roof tiles.

Should I fill the space on top of my chimney between the sleeve and the brick structure with something, as was done with my neighbor's chimney?

I do not know if it is necessary to actually fill it, but as a minimum I would use metal to create a collar to keep it stationary and to keep the weather, bats and other critters from causing future headaches.


Can anyone identify this device hooked to water pipes This device is between the hot and cold water pipes in a brand new building, in Germany.

What is it for?

Honeywell V5012 Kombi-DP Diaphragm Unit.  Details in the URL below.  To quote a section:

  It is used in systems with variable volume flows, for example two-pipe
  heating systems or district heating exchangers, and supports a
  hydronic balance by keeping the differential pressure over consumers
  at a constant pre-set level even under changing flow conditions.

Honeywell V5012


Are two prong cords safe? Audio Interface I have an audio interface called an m-audio profire 2626 (made sometime in the late 2000's) that's just a solid metal box that takes inputs form mics and 1/4 jacks - it only has a two prong plug-in which is currently plugged into a surge protector that has three prongs. Firstly, is this device safe without the three prong? Furthermore, I have other things plugged into the surge protector that are grounded. If I were to turn on one of the guitar amps (three prong) while I have earphones on my head connected to the audio interface (two prong) would this cause a difference in potential and possibly be a shock hazard?

The reason I ask is because last night I was recording something with the interface and I had my foot propped on the amp (classical style guitar) and I accidentally switched it on the bass amp (three prong) with my foot - the pop startled me and I did notice that the headphones sounded like static for a moment - to be honest not sure if I was just listening to the pop from the amp or if there was a little tiny shock. The fact that I could barely tell - I assume getting a bad shock would be much more obvious and painful. I don't want to find out.

Would it create a circuit if I touch something that's plugged into the same surge protector?

Should this interface have the three prong outlet like most other metal bodied appliances? It takes 12v.

I'm about 99% certain that the ground is done properly. This place was built somewhat recently, but I could get an outlet tester and double check.

I don't know this device specifically, but it is possible for it to be designed to be "ungrounded". There are several reasons for this. One is that if it's using an external power supply.

Audio circuits can be designed with an audio ground and a power ground. If they are connected together and then grounded through the wall socket, you usually get a hum-loop. One way to avoid this is to build the audio device without an explicit power ground.

But whatever the reasons, if you are using the device as it is intended, including using the power supply it came with, there should be no problems.


How to strengthen the plastic thread for repeated attaching/detaching of a garden hose? My garden hose rack-mount, my shop-vac, etc.. all have a plastic thread to attach a garden hose.

I try hard to hit the thread just right, but sometimes I miss.

This leads me to wonder if I'm not unduly shortening the life of all these devices by not strengthening their plastic tip.

Does there exist a minuscule extension that I would thread permanently on each such plastic tip to turn it into a brass tip one? What name should I use to ask for this gadget at the hardware store?

It's called "a very short hose". :) You can make your own with parts commonly available at hardware and big-box stores.

Alternatively, install a simple valve, an elbow, or a backflow preventer:

Be aware that extending a plastic connection with a rigid part adds torque stress to that connection. Use caution to not lever on it.


run electrical conduit underneath hardwood floor? I am in the process of putting down hardwood floor.

As a first step, I am reinforcing the subfloor by screwing and glueing 1/2 plywood on top. Then, I'll add a felt/vapor guard layer, and then a 3/8in click floating hardwood floor on top.

I am looking at options on how to lay electricity to get to a kitchen island (to be installed).

The basement below is finished, and it wouldn't be easy to drill holes into the joists. This is also awfully close to the support beam and heating ducts.

Since I have not yet laid the subfloor reinforcement, I wonder whether I could:

Leave a gap and cover it with a steel plate after laying the conduit
Add a steel channel
Anything that I didn't think of

If this would help in any way: The electrical will be approximately at the entry to the kitchen - I could add t-molding to separate the two floors.

I want to be legal, too (US/Maryland).

Any help greatly appreciated!

Cut a few openings in your current subfloor, spanning across from the centers of joists, and pull flex conduit (or just cable if that's all that's needed). You'll easily be able to drill through the joists with a compact drill. When you're done just glue and screw the cutouts back in place, then add your second layer. Don't fiddle around with hokey sandwich solutions.


Would my fridge wear or be damaged when I unplug it for a week? My fridge is fairly 3 years old (Here is the model of my fridge) and I am usually going to be at work area for the week and do not get home until Friday night. I do not put much food in my fridge, only enough to get me through the weekend.

I am hesitant of unplugging the fridge when I leave the house every week then plugging it back when I get home. What are the pros and cons of doing this, besides conserving energy? Would this do harm to my fridge overtime?

Warning: A refrigerator unplugged with the door closed will become a factory of disgusting mold.

The cure is to leave the door open.  However, it is impossible to keep other people from closing the door the moment they see it open.

We have 4 fridges at a lodge, which we unplug to save electricity.   Every single time I unplug a fridge and block the door open, I return to find the door closed and the inside of the fridge a disgusting nightmare.  When I have asked these people "why mess with it", they said either habit, or that it was sticking out, or that it merely offended their sense of order.

Electromechanically, the fridge won't care.  It will save ocmpressor wear, and also energy (though not as much as you think on a newer Energy Star model..)

In fact, the off-grid solar folks have stopped recommending super custom 12V fridges with 6” thick foam walls, and just say to choose well among the readily available Energy Star models,  and run it off an inverter.


Can fluorescent recessed lighting with four wires be converted to a two wire incandescent socket? I have ceiling lights in the kitchen that are fluorescent recessed can lighting with four wires, can they be converted to a two wire incandescent socket?

Unfortunately, you'd have to completely rewire the fixture -- the four-pin base is a sign that the fixture has an integral fluorescent ballast and starter, which provide the current limited, high-ish voltage needed for a fluorescent tube (irrespective of what shape it's twisted into) to operate.


What disadvantages do thermostatic mixing valves have? I will soon be buying a new water heater for my home.  I want to set the heater to keep the stored water at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius), and use a thermostatic mixing valve to deliver at most 120 degrees F water to the rest of my house (49 degrees C).

I'm wondering if there are any disadvantages to a thermostatic mixing valve.  In particular, do they ever emit loud noises such as a "clunk" when water starts flowing?

(It may well be that there are not really any disadvantages.  If so, great!)

If there are disadvantages, advice on how to mitigate them would be welcome.

Note: the water in my home is as soft as it gets.  (I live near Seattle, and our water is pretty much melted snow from the Cascade mountain range.  The water company actually adds minerals to the water during processing, as water this soft can be slightly acidic and nobody wants water to dissolve plumbing over time.)  So, mineral buildup inside the mixing valve should be minimal.

I would say that the advantages are number one,  it’s comfort, you’re not constantly going back and forth trying to adjusts to get the right temperature and in the process you probably use less hot water and that being the case it probably saves you some money on energy.  Also the main disadvantage, if there’s a problem with it, it’s pretty expensive labor wise and material wise to dig them out from the wall and repair them.


How is Hanstone compared to other quartz products? We're settled on putting in quartz countertops in our new kitchen, but now we're down to comparing and pricing various brand-name products.

I've looked at Cambria and a few others, but they are a bit pricey. We've found a company that sells and installs Hanstone, and the prices are very reasonable by comparison. The dealer said  the price difference was mostly due to cheaper transportation from Canada to Texas versus most quartz manufacturers being overseas.

Any opinions on Hanstone's product line as it compares to others? Anything about quartz in general that I need to be on the look-out for?

Handstone is an engineered product, not a cut stone product. The parent company is not from Canada, rather Korea. (Hanwha L&C). Cut granite and quartz is commonly produced here in the northeast, especially in VT & NH. The average cost for real cut stone, polished, sealed and cut to order runs about $65/sq.ft.


What is the device resembling a capacitor in my ceiling fan? The light works on my ceiling fan, but the fan does not. My brief research suggested that I check the capacitor. I disassembled the unit, and I find two things in there that look similar--one being a bit smaller than the other. Neither one exhibits the bubbling/melting that suggests that it's been blown.

I've attached a picture that shows both. Can anyone help me identify what they are? (The larger unit has four wires--grey, pink, and 2 yellows--and the smaller has three wires--red and 2 whites.)

Also, if they both look OK, does it pay to replace them to see if that solves the problem? Or is it time for a new fan? (We moved into this house in June, and I don't think we've ever turned the fan on. The first time we tried, the chain on the pull switch broke, and I just got around to replacing that pull switch. That's when I found that the fan doesn't work.)

Many thanks!

They are capacitors made by Seika to be compact to fit into enclosed spaces. Testing caps is very easy

You have to be careful when dealing with caps because they are essentially quick charge/discharge batteries and are capable of giving you a zap with the power off. The the resistor on the diagram of the cap indicates  that it discharges itself when the power is off, but it's still best to be cautious. If you test and it fails they are available for replacement.

This is an example of one on Amazon, however this is a triple cap. And to clarify the second one is also a capacitor, it's a 4 micro farad run capacitor.


Finding ceiling joists overhead I am trying to find some ceiling joists to hang a punching bag from. I have hit one joist, I got it because the track from my garage on the same parallel. I drilled a hole, hit wood, and verified with a nail. I then went 12, 16, and 18 inches and got nothing. I drilled about 2" through the ceiling (cement) and then air.

I tried a stud finder and it seems to be useless.

Any suggestions? I know the pictures arent great but this is what it looks like:

The joists are likely on either 16 inch or 24 inch on center (OC) spacing, though rarely some are 19.2 inch oc. They will usually span in the direction of the shortest room dimension but not always.

Since you have one located as you noted, I suggest measuring 16 inch and 24 inch in both directions and try drilling there and you should hit them with one of the holes. You can also 'thump' with your knuckle or object to get listen for the difference between the solid sound near a joist and the hollow sound between joists to get an idea of where they are located. And if you get very good, can even locate them fairly well.

Your stud finder might have another setting for thick walls, try using that. Also, the stud finder works only if you start between joists. It senses depth of objects and only reports thicker ones. So if you start on a joist, it will not tell you anything. Also, because of how it works, a stud finder does not give good results for walls or ceilings that have very rough surfaces or surfaces that change in thickness.

Note that you need to attach to the middle of the joist so simply hitting a joist with your drilled hole is not really enough. Once you locate a joist you can drill on either side until you find one of the edges, mark it, and then the other edge is usually 1-1/2 inch away (it can be more for manufactured joists), mark it, then attach to the middle of the two lines which is, of course, the middle of the joist.


Stopping wheelie bins blowing over in the wind Possible Duplicate:
  How do I keep my outdoor trash cans from blowing away in the wind?

I am looking for a simple and cheap way to stop our wheelie bins blowing over, we keep then next to a wall, so some type of fixing may be an option.

However any solution must be easy to attach and detect without requiring a high level of
fine motor skills as my wife has Cerebral Palsy and I don’t wish to give her a reason to always make me put the bins out!

If you're able to drill the wall and attach metal fixings you could use nylon webbing with some heavy duty velcro to make simple retaining straps. They'd be anchored to the wall fixings so  you'd just need to do/undo the velcro to fasten/release. Here in the UK our wheelie bins have a 'loop' as part of their hinge structure and this has proved perfect for looping the webbing through.


Are there any tips to prevent or reduce dust when working with drywall? With regard to patching, sawing, or drilling into/through drywall that is already installed (adding some outlets and ceiling fans), where dust control is a priority (the owner is very tidy), can anyone offer some tips and/or advice for keeping the dust to a minimum?

Here's one small tip: use a sticky note to catch dust from drilling- (courtesy of: http://rebrn.com/re/lpt-use-a-post-it-note-to-catch-dust-when-drilling-2615252/)

Another tip (for cutting into the ceiling) might be to use a piece of paper or a styrofoam cup to create a cone- taped around a drill or sawzall- (How to avoid dust when drilling in the ceiling)
Of course attaching a vacuum hose to the tool might work, or it might be so cumbersome that it's not really worth the struggle. Many sanders have a vacuum attachment built in.
It has been suggested in a few places that a bit of shaving cream or toothpaste can be applied at or near the area to collect dust.
Making cuts with a razor or box cutter is less dusty than a key-hole saw or a sawzall.
Obviously, a drop cloth will be necessary, especially for sanding.
Open two or more windows (so that air can flow through the house) and set a box fan in the window closest to the area where dust will be generated, blowing outward.
Many vacuums will not have fine enough filters to capture all of the dust. So a dust collector might be handy to use in conjunction with a vacuum.

Wetsanding is a technique where you use a damp sponge or damp towel to sand patches.
And there are low dust drywall compounds (muds).


How to remove hot water baseboard? I have a room which is getting too hot during winter and I want to disconnect the hot water baseboard in it from the heating system. Problem is that heating system is a loop and room is in the middle.
Do I have to open the wall and rewire the pipes behind it ?
Is there a less extensive solution ?
Could a zone valve help here?

Build a nice looking wooden cover and line the inside with 1/2 rigid foam insulation. Place it over the baseboard to insulate it.   There is no fire danger because it's hydronic.