Can I plug a multi-outlet adapter into a GFCI outlet? I have a GFCI outlet in my kitchen where I would like to plug in more than two things.  I was thinking I could just add a multi-outlet adapter to one of the outlets, or maybe a short 1->3 plug extension cord for my purposes.  I'm assuming this is probably frowned upon, but would it be functional?

Specifically right now in the GFCI outlet we have a bottle warmer plugged in; I would like to add to it a small fish take filter, LED light, and a fish tank heater.

You can absolutely plug in an extension cord to the GFCI outlet, and as long as the GFCI outlet was wired correctly, the GFCI protection extends to all the devices plugged into it.

However, I would advise you to stay away from this kind of multi outlet adapter, since it might cover the GFCI buttons making it harder to test and reset:


Is this a ceiling fan box? This is a picture of the box and a ceiling of my office. It looks to me like a ceiling fan box as it has a metal brace going out either side and a large bolt holding it to the brace. This room is pretty old and I couldn't see a weight rating on the box so I just wanted someone else to give their opinion.

Is this a ceiling fan box?

The answer is most likely yes. The bar runs between the joists and the nut in the center of the box means it has overhead support. The main thing is that a lot of boxes were mounted only to one joist and could not support the weight of a heavy fixture like a fan.

The retrofit box you would install if it wasn't is simply to add that support arm.


How is the input connection made to a punch down block? I'm installing a patch panel using Cat 6 cable to the various rooms of the house that will require internet service. I have a 12 port punch down block, and understand how to punch down the connections in accordance with the color codes I'm using. However, I have a basic question.

There will need to be an input to the patch panel (from the cable provider) through the Modem/Router. How is that connection made to the punch down block?  Is one of the 12 ports simply designated as "Input" and the rest the various locations?  I do not see a separate "input" location.

Ethernet cabling isn't simply jointed together the way power or phone cables are. Each run from the various rooms should be punched down to the back of an ethernet patch panel:

It's unclear from your question what kind of patch panel you have or how you've punched down the cables. An ethernet patch panel will expose a standard RJ45 connector for every line. Then you need to connect each run to a different port on an ethernet switch:

In your case you will need to buy a switch with at least as many ethernet jacks as you have in the house.

A switch is a device that directs internet traffic to and from the various ports based on their source and destination. It is not just a dumb splitter. You then plug the router into one of the jacks (doesn't matter which one). Note that a modem and a router have different purposes, although occasionally they are bundled into the same device. You must make sure you have a router either built-in to the modem or sitting just after the modem.


What is this vent called? Hi I need to get this vent/pipe replaced but I don’t know what it is called. Can anyone identify it for me. It’s in my basement near the furnace.

Lacking context, it's either a cleanout (normally at the bottom of a flue) or a disused thimble (place where a pipe used to connect to the flue) with a cover/plug in it (the half-rusted bit with the handle) - "cleanout cover" and "end cap" and "flue plug" are all possible names when searching. Add the diameter of the pipe/hole to narrow results towards ones that might actually fit.


When wiring two circuits through the same conduit, what wire coloring is required? Problem

I am wiring a septic control/alarm box to a subpanel. They are on the same post, so the wire run is through a short stretch of 3/4" flex conduit.

There are two circuits required: a 240V for the pump and 120V for the control/alarm system. I'm using 12 AWG wire, as follows:

hot to alarm
neutral to alarm
hot 1 to pump
hot 2 to pump
ground

What does code say about coloring and grouping of these wires? What about best practices, beyond code?

My Current approach

I'm currently using:

a 12/2 G cable.

Black is alarm hot;
white is alarm neutral.
Bare is ground (duh).

a black wire is pump hot 1
a white wire with red tape at both ends is hot 2

That seems confusing, and I'm not sure if it's quite to code. How can I improve it?

Since it's a short run, I really don't mind buying new colored wire by the foot and redoing all of this.

An alternative

I have a bit of 12/3 G cable that I considered using like this:

12/3 G cable

black is pump hot 1
red is pump hot 2
bare is ground (duh)
white is neutral to alarm (remember, pump has no neutral)

single black conductor to alarm

I rejected this because I didn't like the idea of the control box's neutral being in the cable with the pump's conductors - more confusion.

My neighbor's control/alarm box

For comparison, here's my neighbor's control alarm/box, although it uses a 120V pump, so the white wire really is a neutral. (Click for full-sized image).

As far as code goes, I think you're okay with your approaches since you've tagged hots appropriately.

Personally, I think mixing cable with individual wires is sloppy. I'm going to assume that 12 AWG is the correct size for the pump, but you should check before actually putting in 12 AWG. I would do one of two things:

Run using NM cable:

A 12/2 wire for the 240V pump circuit: either black/red, or black/white tagged as hot
A 14/2 wire for the 120V alarm circuit
Ground in both cables is connected

Or run individual wires:

2 12AWG's (black/red) for the pump circuit
1 12AWG or 10AWG ground (bare, or green)
1 14AWG white neutral (alarm circuit)
1 14AWG other color (blue is often the 4th color used) hot for the alarm circuit

NM wire is usually easier to find, and you may even have some already (if not, having spare 14/2 available is never bad). For individual wires you often have to buy a spool of each color which makes going that way for one project more expensive, though you may be able to buy by-the-foot.

In either scenario, labelling everything at both ends is important.


Modifying a touch controlled lamp My touch lamp tipped over while it was on, the bulb went out.

Ever since my touch lamp will just stay ON when it's plugged in, the touch feature no longer works.

I know I can replace the touch lighting control, but I was thinking instead of doing that, is it possible to add just a inline switch?

Without removing the touch lighting control and just adding a switch will the lamp still work?

The easiest solution would be to ad a switched cord like this one

It has a long cord so you can position it where it is convenient for you.
You plug the plug end of the cord into the wall and the lamp plug into the plug end and run cord with the switch to the area of your choosing.

The one liked to is dimmable so you can get a dimmable bulb or you can get a non dimmable one as well. I have seen them in the extension cord area of The blue big box home improvement store. I  have two.

There is also this switch that can be added to your lamps existing cord. This requires you to cut one leads  of the cord,( Make sure to cut the hot lead: the one that is not ribbed.) Strip the insulation back and connect it to two screws inside the switch.

Of coarse you would do this with lamp not plugged into the wall.


How do I insulate the ceiling in my crawlspace? I'm desperately looking for some advice on how to properly insulate the crawl space. I live in eastern Massachusetts where it has recently been in the teens and 20s for low temps in winter.
I have a large crawl space under my kitchen and 3 season porch ranging in height from 1' to 4' with no venting to the outside. I recently air-sealed the entire rim joist with an expanding foam and added a heavy mil plastic sheeting over the dirt floor, making sure to overlap and seal all edges. We also insulated the copper pipes in the space with closed cell insulation tubing and taped all joints to prevent the pipes from freezing. The kitchen is still very cold.
I would like to ideally insulate the space in between the floor joists and possibly the exterior brick foundation walls but are getting conflicting info on what to do.

Could use a poly spray foam kit, but the max R-values I have seen are only in the 7-10 range and its not anywhere close to warm enough outside to prevent it from failing. Everything I read says not to use apply when below 60 degrees or it will not cure properly. Its barely in the 30s right now! Also, the exterior walls are not all that clean and the foam might not stick.
Floor joists are not evenly spaced and range from 17"OC to 22"OC so batt insulation is going to be a pain.
Could use blown-in insulation but how do I get it to stay up there? Someone told me to use a plastic sheeting across all the joists with furring strips for extra support and then simply blow the insulation into each joist cavity, but I am worried that the plastic sheeting is too much of a vapor barrier and will cause mold inside the joist cavities. If the crawl space is already moisture sealed, am I OK? Do I need some sort of barrier up inside the cavities on the bottom of the floor?

Also, do I really need to insulate the brick foundation walls and will this show a big difference? Because the dirt is not evenly distributed and some areas are tight to get into, getting rigid foam board would be nearly impossible.

Please help!!!

I am also in the Northeast and have had to tackle this type of situation a few times. There are several ways to attack it.

In your case, the best solution, but unfortunately the most expensive would be to use an open cell foam kit to fill the joist bays. They are fairly easy to use and give you about an R-4 rating per inch. They are a two tank kit with a hose and wand.
 Here is an example product: Touch N Seal 1000 Kit Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation

These type of kits start around $400, depending on the square footage and depth required.

A cheaper method would be to use 24 inch R-19 unfaced blanket insulation cut to your custom widths. You can use wire springs to hold it in place and keep it from falling. I would then cover the entire area with 4 to 6 mil plastic, stapled to all the joists. Tape the joints, if any. Moisture should not be a major problem since you have already done what sounds like a good job sealing the dirt floor. In the summer months, some ventilation in the crawl space will also help avoid excess moisture.

Rigid foam glued to the foundation walls would also help if the area is fairly air tight. If there is free air flow, insulating the brick walls would be a waste of time and money.


Best way to insulate sweaty sheet metal ducts in unconditioned space? My air return system is in a small closet in my garage. When I run the A/C when it's hot and humid out, the ducts sweat and drip a lot of water onto the wood platform that the HVAC and water heater sit on. The homeowner before hand must have not cared and never did anything about it.

I on the other hand don't like seeing all the water laying around, and I don't want it to eventually rot the wood to death.

What is the best way to insulate sheet air ducts?

Here are some pictures of my fiasco too.

(links are to Google image search)

With foil and fiberglass duct wrap you have to use tape, and be able to get all the way around or it won't stay there (the tape has to lap over its other end or it will not hold).

I'd recommend self-adhesive foil and foam duct wrap.

You might want to do the easy-to-reach and the majority of it with fiberglass, and use the self adhesive where you have to, to keep the cost down.

Surface prep is to wipe with alcohol - do not use mineral spirits. And of course; to be dry.


Putting up a curtain rail on a dormer wall We have a loft conversion with a dormer and a window in the wall of the dormer. I'd like to put up some curtains, but I'm not sure how to attach the curtain rail. The dormer walls are described as:

12.5mm foil-backed plasterboard
35mm Gyproc Thermaline Plus finish to internal surfaces
50x100mm studwork to cheeks at 600mm c/c
100mm Kingspan Thermawall TW55 between studs
breather membrane
18mm WBP plywood
25x38mm treated battens on BS747 1F reinforced felt
tile hanging

Can anyone tell me how to attach my curtain rail? If I'm screwing into wood, how do I know where the wooden struts are?

Windows need framing around them, to support the hole-in-the-wall the window represents.  This means that support framing (IF you have wooden framing) will be immediately to the left, right and above the window, within the first several inches.

Small test nailings can be done in the area in question, just deep enough to prove wood-or-not.  Drillings with small bits can accomplish the same thing, as well as making a pilot hole for a screw.

Failing-finding-wood, anchors of various configurations will support the screw(s) in drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard, gypsum board, or gyprock), such as:


15A Ground Fault Breaker Keeps tripping I installed (a few years ago) an extra light in our closet that is just run from a jumper to the existing light.  I can have that light on as long as I want, but the moment I turn on my TV or computer (on the same circuit) it trips.  I can have my TV or computer on at the same time, but the moment I (or my wife) turns on the light in the closet the breaker trips.

I installed the light using the same 14 gauge cable the house was run with (irritating, wish it was all run with 12-2 or 12-3) and made sure the connections were secure and all connections covered by wire nuts.

I'm at a loss at why this keeps tripping.  I've replaced the breaker twice and it will run fine (light on and TV on) for a couple months and then it trips again.

HELP!

Is the GFCI tripping or is it tripping on overload. The best way you can find out is to use an Ammeter and check the load. If it's less than 15A then we can assume you have a ground trip. Usually what we do is replace the ground fault breaker with a standard breaker and install a GFCI receptacle in the bathroom and any other outlet that requires GFCI protection.


Window unit lets in lots of outdoor noise. How to insulate? I just moved to NYC and I have a window unit like this:

The foldable frame around either side lets in a considerable amount of outside noise; it's just as if the window was open.  In fact, I'd swear it amplifies outdoor noise, perhaps through the AC unit itself.  Quite hard to get some sleep.
Is there a way to better insulate against the noise?

You may want to make a trip to the big box store and purchase a piece of high density foam insulation board. You should be able to find materials that are colored pink or blue that comes in 1" or 2" thicknesses.

Carefully cut pieces that will fit between the window bottom, side wall and the inward protruding part of the AC unit. If cut correctly you should be able to push the foam material into place with a nice friction fit all around right over those pleated side fillers.

You could also investigate the possibility of cutting a piece that would push in under the AC unit.

It is not clear if a piece would be needed across the top as it is not obvious from the picture if the top area lets in noise to the same degree that the flimsy side pleated panels.

Lastly there is the issue of possible sound coming right in through the AC unit itself. It that is the case this is clearly an issue when the AC unit is off and not in use. So in that case make a cover out of the foam board to put in front of the AC unit when it is not in use. Remove cover to use AC when it's noise probably fully exceeds what external noise that would come through the unit.


Lazy spa plug options - UK We are anticipating the delivery of a lazy spa hot tub soon and am sussing out how to get power. We have an outdoor socket, but it’s 10m away so I would need to use an outdoor extension lead to connect here. I’ve read the pros and cons and it looks like as long as you are sensible and using a good external quality extension it’s ok to do. The shortest one I can find is 10m long, and don’t need anywhere near this amount, more like 3m. To reduce voltage drop am I best to reduce the length of the extension.

Or... I could plug the spa directly into an indoor socket but this would mean cutting the manufacturers plug off, drilling a hole and re-fitting the plug.. Are indoor sockets ok generally for this type of appliance. The load is approx 2kw.

I can’t move the hot tub nearer the outdoor plug sadly and would prefer to avoid getting another one installed.

Any advice appreciated.

You would be better to get a new outdoor socket installed as a spur (if possible) from the existing indoor socket.

When doing this, your electrician will also check that the circuit has RCD protection. Almost all new wiring, and all sockets, must have RCD protection. If your electrical installation is older, you might not have RCD protection to all sockets.

If the inside socket is on the outside wall an electrician will probably be able to go straight through from the back box to the outside, meaning no internal cabling visible and no disruption or redecoration needed.

This would avoid both using an extension lead and removing the plug. Removing and refitting the plug is not itself a problem as in the UK the only type of plug used on domestic equipment is 230V 13 amp square-pin; anything else would have to be hard-wired. The risk is actually physical damage to the lead running it through a hole in the brickwork (especially if you have polystyrene cavity wall insulation, which reacts with PVC electrical cable).

If you want to run a cable through a hole in the wall then an external socket extension kit like this one

https://www.toolstation.com/bg-ip66-outdoor-power-kit/p27175

will provide a weatherproof cover to the outdoor socket, and RCD protection in case you don't already have it. (This or similar products are also available from Argos, Wickes, Screwfix etc.)

A short length of plastic conduit should be used to take the lead through the wall

https://www.toolstation.com/20mm-heavy-duty-pvc-round-conduit/p47063


DIY table saw reusing components from other table saws I would like to know what are the major obstacles if I try to build a new table saw. My major problem today is that my DeWalt 745 has an aluminium top. I was wondering if I stand any chance to move the motor to a cast iron top that from another table saw (I just saw one for sale on ebay from a Rigid 4512)

I don't know about the guts of the Ridgid saw, but I can imagine that a switcheroo isn't going to be simple. (Probably not impossible, just not simple.)

However, I have to question your motivations.

size of top? Simple -- just build a big table that you can drop the dewalt into
fence capacity? Not quite as simple, but not impossible to put a new Biesemeyer-type fence and rail on a table. (Spendy, though, if you buy new...)
mass? I know the dewalt is light and thus squirrely, but there are a number of ways of weighing it down. If you tend you use it in a table, then bolt it on and weight the table legs. If it's on the ground, you can bolt it to a long hunk of ply (which will also help with tipping).

Last but not least, the dewalt has value if you were to sell it. If you really want something more substantial, you might just sell it and buy what you want.


What should I fill this space with? Hi all. Pulled appliances out of a property and seeing several areas where the wall isn't flush with the floor. Any suggestions on how I should fill these? The one with the copper pipe is behind the stove so doesn't need to be beautiful. The hole in the doorway will be more visible.

For the space with the copper pipe you could use a thin piece of pine or hemlock trim material that is typically called a lattice moulding. The type I am thinking of is 1/2" thick and 2 1/2" wide. Before installing you would want to patch up, sand, prime and paint the drywall material. Then nail the lattice strip into place and prime and paint it. When I install such material I will typically prime on all sides and paint it even before installation. A pneumatic brad nailer is an excellent tool for installing such moulding using 16ga slight head brad nails that are 2 1/4" long. Use extreme care not to nail into that copper pipe of any electrical wiring in the wall.

The repair of the part of the baseboard in the doorway can be a bit more problematic. I see two possible ways to deal with this.

The first method would involve removing the existing base board in both directions back from that corner. Then install new matching baseboard that comes all the way to the corner. The moulding from each side would meet right at the corner with an outside corner miter joint.

The second method would involve cutting back the baseboard that currently comes right to the corner by an equal amount that the base board on the left side of the picture is shy of the corner. Then you would fit 3/4" pine corner boards that fill in both sides and meet in the corner with an outside corner miter. This corner block would want to be just a small bit higher than the existing molding.


Water only come from hot water faucet when I turn on both I have a situation where all hot water faucets in my home give me a dribble and eventually turn off. However, if I turn on the hot and cold, and turn on another hot water faucet nearby, then the nearby one runs water from the hot water faucet with low pressure, but doesn't run out.
Also, the water from the nearby hot water faucet never turns hot. We have had freezing temperatures, so it's probably related.
What can be the cause?
What can I do to fix the hot water issue?
Update: If I turn on all hot water faucets, the eventually dribble out and turn off. Then, if I turn on any cold water faucet, then I get a dribble in all off the hot water faucets.

Sounds like you are draining your hot water heater by gravity ,then it slowly refills . The slow refill is because of a restriction in the supply lines or very low city pressure, Right now I also have the very low city pressure ( E TX). First verify what is the situation of your city water pressure.


Wemo Light Switch + Niko Dimmer Switch combined In order for my smart lights to be on permanently, I need the light switch circuit to be "permanently on", while the light switch instead controls my Hue lights. While I know this is accomplishable by replacing the light switch with a blank panel and using something like the link below (A wireless battery-less switch), I wanted to be able to control whether the circuit is on or not at the same time.

In other words, I want a wemo light switch without the actual physical switch, instead just a blank panel with wifi-controlled electricity. Any ideas?

Link to wireless dimmer switch: https://www.niko.eu/enus/article/120-91004

You still need a light switch where people expect one

The Building Codes require that you do have a functioning light switch in the usual locations.  That is not so much for you, they don't care if you can turn your lights on with your Google Glasses... They are a requirement for

Guests who they don't want getting hurt in the dark
EMTs so they can work 2-handed while saving your life, without holding a flashlight or delaying care so they can get you out to the ambulance where light is
Firemen so they can quickly determine if the room is clear
Police so they can quickly see that your son who got SWATed is holding a gaming mouse, not a gun

Obviously they are not mutually exclusive; with smart switches it does suffice for the wall switch to bepart of the smart-switch ecosystem send an "on command".  It just has to work.  The wall-switch "on" must easily bring it to a medium light level, what would be bad is if it was stuck at a previous very dim mood-lighting level that can only be changed from your phone.

If you are going to use your phone 99% of the time, a real risk is the batteries running down and you never knowing it.  So one option is to install a wired smart switch (controller) and re-task the physical wires to deliver always-on power to the switch.

Don't use unlisted cheap Cheese junk

The item you linked is notable in its lack of a UL listing, or rather a listing from TUV, CSA, UL or some other competent testing lab which operates in Europe.  The only thing you see there is a CE mark, which stands for "Chinese Excrement" - seriously it's a voluntary mark which means the manufacturer only claims to comply with certain EU standards. In actual practice, far-east manufacturers stamp it on absolutely everything, so it might as well be bought at a street vendor in Bangkok.  The vendor states that proudly... so clearly they are not interested in paying the fee to have TUV or CSA test it, since they know it'll fail.

Well, buy from someone whose stuff actually is tested by an impartial third party.


How can I conceal an over-the-range microwave? We are in the process of remodelling our kitchen, and are going from an electric to gas stove. Because of this, we are going to need a vented range hood.

One thing that we are certain about is that we'd like the microwave oven to be concealed in the kitchen. This can be accomplished by putting it inside a roomy cabinet. What I'd like to do, however, is install an over-the-range microwave, but somehow conceal the thing. eg: install doors in front of it (or something).

Has anyone done this, or have any advice on how I might go about doing it?

You used to be able to buy microwaves that you could apply cabinet facing to, but a quick google search doesn't show any examples.

There are a number of ways to put a cabinet door over a microwave, and it looks like the following would probably suit your needs best:

http://www.houzz.com/hidden-microwave

There is cabinet hardware that lifts the cabinet door out and up, so if properly mounted you can have the bottom venting portion of the microwave open for the stove, and cover the rest of the microwave with the same cabinet facing you have in the kitchen.  You just lift it up to access the microwave.


Is it within code to leave unused romex wire within a stud cavity for future use? I'm installing pendant lights, instead of wall sconces, for a bathroom vanity in a new construction home. However, I'd like to be able to have the option of adding the wall sconces and remove the pendant lights in the future.

Is it ok to leave unused romex wire in the stud cavity? This romex wire would be coiled up in the wall directly where the future wall sconces would be located. Doing this would make it easy to fish out the romex wire from behind the drywall. The romex wire would not be live until need be.

It is fine to do what you propose, as long as you are 100% certain that the cables/wires are not terminated at the feed/switch ends. This is very common. This is NOT burying a junction box or splice. There is no code prohibition to leaving a dead wire in the wall for future use.

I would however take photos of the area for your own records, and label the ends of the wires at the switch boxes just in case you don't follow through with this and the next owners find them. They may want to do the same and have a pleasant surprise.


dripping sound inside wall I'll try to get everything in here, yet be concise.

This is a 3-story building, plus basement/underground parking.  I'm on the 2nd floor, studio.  Same layout above and below.  Exterior wall to balcony; all others interior.  Kitchen and bath share a wall (and also run along interior wall for hallway).  The drip sound is from the wall between the kitchen and bathroom.

Kitchen sink is on an island "wall" not attached to the "problem" wall.  Bathroom sink and toilet are on the wall opposite the "problem" wall.  I was thinking there wasn't any plumbing in the "problem" wall, but my mom pointed out the sprinkler system.  And, duh, the shower faucet is on that wall (drain is in middle of tub, though).

The drip is extremely intermittent.  It seems to occur at any time of the day (or night), and does not appear to be related to water running or having been run recently.  It SEEMS to be coming from/hitting somewhere near the ceiling.  Also, several feet to the side of the shower faucet.  When I hear it start, I've listened to see if anyone is running water (even going upstairs to listen) and there is never water running.

I've talked to the guy upstairs and he also hears it.  I haven't yet asked him if he can pinpoint "where"--as in, does he hear it towards his floor or not? (to 'correspond' with my sense that it is near my ceiling)  I haven't talked to the guy on the first floor.  If he doesn't hear it, then....well, it helps isolate the problem, I guess.  Oh--I've listened in the hallway downstairs and not heard it.  But I also listened in the hallway on the 3rd floor and did NOT hear it; but when I asked the guy, he did hear it inside his apartment.

The building is about a year old.  The drip/sound occurs during the summer and now (so, when hot or cold outside).  I've seen no evidence of water damage on either side of the wall.  I first heard it....about 5 months ago.  I wasn't here before that (I am first tenant in this unit).  If it's been doing it since construction, I'm not sure if that would be enough time for damage to show on the "living" sides of the walls?  I would think so, but....

Obviously, with sprinklers in the wall, there are pipes.  But I can't think why those pipes would have water moving through them 2 or more times a day.  Wouldn't water just sit in those pipes until needed, if ever needed?

The sound -- like big drops.  Nearly always the exact same speed, although I think a couple times it was quicker.  It lasts anywhere from a minute or two, to 15 minutes or more.  I'm up all night--it often happens in the middle of the night.  No one else is up and running water, and I would not have run the shower for...hours.

I'd like to figure out WHAT this is, because I really do not want them coming in here to tear out the wall to try to diagnose it.  There is no maintenance person on-site, so I can't just get him/her when it decides to drip.

Any thoughts??

If it occurs during summer, and days when you run your air conditioner, its likely they fed the condensation drain pan to the house drain. Try turning off your AC for a whole day and see if you ever hear it.

Its also possible that its someone else's AC unit that is drained to your drain, or in a multi-unit building, the common drain that happens to run through your wall.


Decorative hanging hooks into plaster and brick wall I'm at a bit of a loss, but I feel like I can't surely be the only person with this issue. We have a number of keepsake / decorative items that need to be hung by a hook. An example is a surprisingly heavy ceramic wedding horseshoe with a ribbon to hang it.

Because the wall is old plaster and masonry I can't use nails or standard picture hooks. I've looked at normal decorative hooks but they all have small diameter and/or short threads which simply aren't going to screw neatly into any plugs.

So, what on Earth can I use? I'm sure I'm missing a simple and obvious solution. For hanging pictures I've been drilling a hole into the mortar, adding a plug and then fixing a screw to hang in the picture. This works fine where you can't see anything, but I'm looking for a more attractive solution.

There are extra sharp, thin nails used in several brands of picture hangers that reduce the chance of cracking or chipping plaster

They also can be used alone if the item is not too heavy.

You also could use an anchor and a flat head screw and then merely glue a decorative button or other item from a craft store to the head.

  Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


What is this rubber circle on duct Can anyone identify? I'm hoping I can use it somehow to affect air flow.

http://i.imgur.com/5q4T9nr.jpg

It's a plug for a hole. It should pry out - doubtful that it will allow you to adjust airflow.

Beware of random self-adjustments to a furnace's airflow done without checking the current to the fan motor - you can overload the fan (and the overload will happen in the opposite direction than you expect, unless you are unusually well educated in the ways of centrifugal fans.)


how do i remove kitchen sink drainer basket without a visible lock nut? my kitchen drainer basket is made of plastic without the usual lock nut. i could not remove it.

The entire lower plastic portion is the locknut.

Have a helper hold the strainer in place from above using a strainer wrench (it's a thing, sometimes called a spud wrench), or by jamming the handles of channellock pliers into it, while you get under there and unscrew the whole plastic body from the strainer (turn CCW if looking up at it from below).


What is this difference between these two 4 pole (3 phase) GFCI breakers? I'm living in France and encountered this 4 pole (3 phase) GFCI in my apartment:

My understanding is that this thing protects against a difference, between the neutral (return) and the hot (phase), that is greater than 300mA. I hear that 300mA is too high to protect a human so I wanted to swap this out for the French norm which is 30mA.
It looks like the brown wire entering into the 3rd top terminal is the phase wire coming into the house and the grey wires are just setting up two more parallel circuits. The blue wire, into the 4th top terminal is the neutral wire.

To minimize work I wanted to just swap everything in place so I bought this thing:

I hooked it up and everything works, but the TEST button does not have any effect! I'm assuming the new breaker is working and it is my understanding of the thing that is broken. Looking closer at the schematics, they are not identical. The old one seems to have the T connected to the N and L1 terminals, while the new one seems to have the T connected to the 3 and 6 terminals:

Could someone please help me understand the differences?
Is the new breaker inappropriate for my setup?

I see what's going on here.

You have a 3-phase RCD, but  your supply is only single-phase.

Let's look closer at that picture.

The top is the line side.  The orange wire is the real incoming hot.  The grey jumpers take the hot wire over to the other 2 phases.

What this brightened picture shows clearly is that the load side of the breaker is wired as 3 phases.  The apartment wiring takes 3 conductors, one off each phase, to be distributed to various apartment loads.  So the apartment is "3-phase-ready" even if the service is not (yet) 3 phases.

This is a danger area.  Each phase could pull 40A before any breakers would trip. I doubt that gray jumper is rated for 80A.  I also doubt the orange wire is rated for 120A.  Maybe it is downline of other breakers.

Your new RCD won't trip because there's no voltage difference

And therefore no current flow.  All phase (LINE and LOAD) conductors, all 6 of them, are at the same voltage potential. As such, there is no current movement through the TEST circuit.

So the upshot is, this device's Test functionality will not work here.  If your house is grounded, you can use external GFCI testers.

30ma isn't that great for human protection anyway

It's certainly better than nothing at all, but 30ma can be lethal for humans, and will definitely stun.  That is the motivating factor behind 5 ma protection on US devices; stunned people drown or fall, so a stun is the same as a kill.  Generally Europe does RCD for parallel arc fault detection.


Matte finish over satin finish? I just removed wallpaper, cleaned the walls, repaired, painted a primer sealer, and painted with a satin finish in my bathroom.  Hate it! Can I use a different color with a matte finish over this satin that I painted on with a brush. New paint will be close in color?

A matte or eggshell, or pretty well any other finish, will cover over the old sheen. With it being freshly painted and primed, you shouldn't have any issues with the paint adhering. As long as the walls were prepped well before the coat you already put on, there shouldn't be any issues.

Keep in mind though, flat finishes are harder to clean, and in a bathroom with a shower, eggshell is is a good choice as a minimum. Many paints are mold resistant now, and there are several brands with eggshell being ok for bathrooms, but the flat sheens may not be.


Can dishwasher lines be routed behind range? My kitchen set up goes from left to right: Cabinets, range, 18" dishwasher, sink, more cabinets. We would really like to upgrade to a full size dishwasher. I want to hack into the cabinets to do this.

The cabinets immediately to the right of the sink are not the right size, would take some work. The cabinet to the left of the range is perfectly sized interestingly. There seems to be a gap behind the range that could accommodate the dishwasher lines, but is that a stupid idea? I assume the oven is insulated since its not catching wood/drywall on fire.

It's a pretty safe assumption that the range is insulated. Otherwise it would not only pose a fire hazard to your walls and/or cabinetry, but would melt the insulation on its own wires. If it weren't insulated, it would also potentially melt linoleum flooring.

For extra safety, you could run braided metal hose, but I'd mainly consider that because it would be safer against abrasion.


How reliable is sewer re-lining? A couple of rough estimates from 2 plumbers for replacement of the sewer line from the back of the house to the street is around $20K. Sewer relining is advertised on the internet at around $6-8K.

So, is re-lining a proven and reliable process in 2015 (something I can have done and forget about for, say, 15 years)?

Thanks for advice/comments.

Yes it is reliable and very common with municipalities to extend the life of their sewers and water mains.

The only downside is that the inner diameter is reduced.  Also they do still need to dig at least two holes to install the liners.

When I had this quoted, the opposite was true - digging up the sewer was cheaper than a liner, so make sure to get a few quotes from reputable contractors.


GFCI Outlet Trips with Receptacle TEST Button, but not with GFCI Outlet Tester Tool I recently bought a house and am testing the GFCI outlets throughout the home to confirm they are working properly.  All of the outlets work when the receptacle TEST button is pressed.  However I also tested them with the Commercial Electric GFCI outlet tester (link below), and this is where I get confused.

In summary, the outlet tester will trip some GFCI outlets, but not all of them.  For instance, I have identified that the outlets in the kitchen are on one of two circuits, and there are two GFCI outlets in the kitchen.  As mentioned above, the TEST buttons work.  One of the circuits will trip with the tester as well:  I plug the tester in, push the button, the GFCI kicks in immediately, and there is no more power at the outlet.  When I try the tester on a receptacle on the other circuit no trip occurs.

The tester instructions do say to hold the button for six seconds, which I tried to no effect.  However, the circuit that does trip, does so nearly immediately.

For what it is worth I have only used the tester on the GFCI receptacles themselves at this point.  I have not tried to use the tester on GFCI protected outlets that are downstream of the GFCI receptacle.

So I think I have a few questions based upon my experience:

If the TEST button trips the GFCI, is the GFCI working?  No exceptions?
What would cause a GFCI outlet to trip with the TEST button, but not with the outlet tester?
What does the GFCI outlet tester does to test the receptacle?  How about the TEST button on the receptacle?

Thanks everyone!

Link to the tester used:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Tools-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-Green-MS102H/206029151

Grounded circuit (green/bare ground wire wired properly):

Push "Test" on the GFCI protective device, and it trips -> PASS
Push "Test" on the GFCI protective device, and it does not trip -> FAIL
Push "Test" on a plug-in GFCI tester, and it trips -> PASS
Push "Test" on a plug-in GFCI tester, and it does not trip -> FAIL

A fail here indicates the GFCI unit is probably defective.

Ungrounded circuit (green/bare absent or defective):

Push "Test" on the GFCI protective device, and it trips -> PASS
Push "Test" on the GFCI protective device, and it does not trip -> FAIL
Push "Test" on a plug-in GFCI tester, and it trips -> FAIL FAIL FAIL
Push "Test" on a plug-in GFCI tester at the GFCI receptacle, and it does not trip -> PASS
Push "Test" on a plug-in GFCI tester at a downstream protected outlet, and it does not trip -> MEANINGLESS

Fail at the GFCI device probably indicates it is defective.

Fail on the plug-in GFCI tester (i.e. it trips!) indicates they have bootlegged ground at the GFCI receptacle- attached the neutral wire to both neutral and ground.  It will seem to work at the GFCI, but is still dangerous.

Bootlegging ground at a downstream GFCI receptacle is a mistake, because one of several electrical faults could put 120V on the the grounds, e.g. the cover plate screws or a machine chassis.  However this is difficult to detect, since a properly wired downstream receptacle will behave exactly the same way.  This means for ungrounded downstream receptacles, plug-in tester testing is completely meaningless.

Once you have settled the question of bootlegged grounds, here's how you test an ungrounded GFCI.  Plug your GFCI tester into your handy dandy 2-3 prong "cheater" - the kind with a short green wire as a pigtail.  Extend that green wire all the way to a reliable ground source, e.g. the panel in the basement. Now, the GFCI tester should work normally, since you have rigged a proper ground to it.

GFCI protection is pretty effective, and I would be confident in an ungrounded circuit if it has GFCI protection.  However if you are unable to get the external device to trip, you'll need to pop the cover off and see if the ground is present, missing or bootlegged.


Lumber Split in Roof Rafter I had a new roof replaced recently and my whole house would shake when they would throw the shingle bundles down on my roof.  I went to the attic the next day and noticed something I hadn't previously.  2 of my roof rafters had a split in the wood.  The split is length wise extends the entire length of the beam.

I showed this to my roofer and he laughed and said it was "checking".  He tells me there is no way that his guys could have done this.

So a couple questions:
1.)  Is this really checking or could the roofer have caused the damage?
2.)  How big of a deal is this?  Do I need to get it fixed?
3.)  How do I fix it?  Or more likely, who do I call?  A general contractor?  Another roofer?

Yes, checking is common and doesn't usually compromise the strength of a board. That crack appears new due to the bright color of the newly-exposed wood. However, I see no reason for concern, especially considering the robust solid wood deck you have, which effectively spreads load to adjacent rafters.

Now, any "professional" who laughs at your questions shouldn't be called upon again. You don't know whether other issues you may raise will also be dismissed with such rudeness. They also should not have been dropping bundles on your roof if only as a measure of respect. It certainly is unpleasant, and it dislodges dust and can crack drywall or plaster.


I have wood block of 50 * 50 * 50 mm. I want to make 1mm hole ( depth), having diameter of 40mm. Which power tool should I use? My question is about making a big hole in wood.

I have wood block of 50 * 50 * 50 mm. I want to make 1 millimeter hole ( depth), having diameter of 40 millimeter. Which power tool should I use?

The best bet for this is to use a drill press so that you can maintain positioning of the block and the drilling tool for an even and square operation. A drill press often also includes a depth stop to help with maintaining a repeatable drill depth if you are producing multiple parts.

The type of drilling bit you want to use for an operation like this would be a Forstner bit. For shallow depth drilling you will want to use the type of bit that looks as follows with the smooth sharp radial cutters.

Avoid the type of bit that has the multi toothed radial cutters as this will not give you as smooth of edge on your shallow depression.

For safety sake make sure to securely clamp the small block of wood to the table of the drill press. One recommendation to make things a lot safer is to drill your shallow depressions into the face of a longer piece of material and then cut it down to size. It is far easier to clamp a larger piece.


Best way to remove anchors from concrete? The people we purchased our home from put up a wall in the 3 car garage between the 1st and 2nd space, but never finished it and I am now looking to remove the entire wall.

There are several anchors in the concrete that I will need to remove that look like this:

I am relatively new to owning a home and am not exactly sure of the best way to extract them. What tools or methods can I use to remove the anchors without too much hassle?

Once removed how would I go about repairing the concrete easily?

Thank you for your responses and advice!

Most anchors don't come out of concrete.  You have two choices.  If you need to keep the look (little chipping) hit it with an angle grinder plus diamond blade.  If you are putting something over these, hammer and sharp chisel works really fast.


How should I fix a previous owners mistakes in this bathroom? (see pictures) I recently bought a fairly old house (circa 1900). I am in the middle of demo-ing the full bathroom and need some help. After removing the fiberglass shower wall, I found standard drywall which was, of course, moldy. That drywall was nailed on top of wood paneling. The kicker is that the walls for the front and back of the shower were built right up against the drywall/wood paneling on the back wall.

The walls at the front and back of the shower are supporting drywall for a closet on one side and the kitchen on the other. I am not renovating either of those rooms so would like to minimize damage to them. What would be the best way to get rid of the mold and get this area ready for the new tub?

I don't see the mold you're talking about, but my go-to is straight industrial bleach, available at most home centers and hardware stores. I apply it generously (read - dripping wet soaked) with a spray bottle. Give it a couple hours, spray it again.

Repeat until all mold is visually gone.

Get rid of that insulation too. Might be harboring some of the mold spores.

...and, of course, only do it in well-ventilated area, blahblahblah, and so forth....


What is this in my wall? I am removing wall paneling and this is in the corner of the room and wondering if it is safe to remove

This is a telephone jack. If you measure 48v DC or so between wires then it is live, even if you don't currently have phone service. Ideally - live or not - you should try and find the other end of the wires and disconnect it if you aren't going to use it. That could be another jack elsewhere in the building or a patch panel or terminal block - typically on a wall in the basement or on an outside wall.

It is generally safe to remove this (i.e., cut off what you can see and cover it up) if it is not live, but that could confuse someone later on who finds the other end and is trying to install phones and can't figure out where a cable ends.

It is not safe to remove this if it is live (e.g., 48v DC) because (a) if the wires short it will affect any equipment that is connected to the same phone line and (b) even low voltage/low current could potentially be a fire hazard. That is extremely low risk if outside the wall, even if not quite connected correctly (as is the case currently) but hidden inside a wall that would not be a good thing. The risk is low - if you really want to disconnect it and you can't find the other end, taping (electrical tape) the end of the cable to protect it is advisable.


What does this basement floor drain look like beneath the surface? This is the floor drain near my gas furnace. It handles the condensate line. I'd like to reconfigure it to also accept a water softener drain line, possibly by installing a larger bowl. I'm not sure how to open it up though. What type of drain is this, and how would I go about removing it from the pipe it's glued to?

The two areas that appear to be screw heads are not. They seem to be just molded into the plastic. I suspect that they are holes for screws to secure a cover that's no longer present.

The softener drain line is supposed to be air gapped about 2" from the drain water level to prevent growth of bacteria working its way back up the line.

If you fasten your lines to a piece of double strut (or other blocking) so they terminate  above the drain with a 90° fitting, then they can drain into the opening without a bowl. You could even extend the down leg into the opening to prevent splashing, as long as the softener doesn't touch anything.

Or, look for an adapter that could be inserted into the throat of the drain to add the bowl above.

Or, you will have to dig it up and replace it with your choice.


How can I run a cable past a horizontal block between studs in my wall? I am in the middle of hiding my flatscreen cables within my bedroom wall to hide. I'm done drilling the holes and I am trying to fish the cable through, but there is a horizontal block of somesort that is preventing my efforts. What is this and what is my recourse?

You need a long, flexible auger bit. I have this model and found it invaluable when I need to add a new cable inside the wall. The kit has a 90 degree handle that fits on the shaft and lets you bend it to fit through the wall opening to reach the bottom or top of the stud bay and drill through. This forum page gives a nice rundown and pictures of the bit in use.

There's a eyelet in the bit where you can fasten a cable to pull back through the hole you drilled, too.

The mid-bay 2x4 is a brace. Some walls have them, some don't. I don't know whether that's a builder's decision or building code. None of my walls have them.


Painting pressure treated wood and particleboard inside a shed I just had a shed installed that will be used for storing bicycles and scuba diving gear (so sometimes it will be a little damp inside). The walls of the shed are made of smooth planed pressure treated wood. The roof is made of particleboard. I'm in the UK so the temperature range isn't extreme.

I'd like to paint the walls and ceiling inside of the shed white and was wondering if I should use any particular paints. I am concerned that if I use a cheap or incorrect paint that it will either flake off or discolour.

For reference, here's a photo of the inside of the shed.

Edit

I've been advised to use Cuprinol Garden Shades on the inside and outside, so any thoughts about that will be welcomed.

Pressure treated wood should be dried out before painting. 3 monthes - a year depending on climate. I would go with a good primer first before painting. Use floor paint for floor or just go with a solid stain.


How to fix water leak coming from pressure gauge/valve on water tank? The pressure gauge connected to my well water tank is dripping very slowly. Maybe few drops per day. I am guessing this based on the accumulated water in the container underneath. It seems that liquid is overflowing from top of the pressure gauge. At the top, there is a hole, function of which is not clear to me. Could someone tell me why there is hole at the top? And why water is coming from the top. It could be total coincidence but I observed this first time when outside temperature became very cold below -5˚F last week, and it’s dripping since. Is this something I can change myself or should I call a plumber? And how soon I should fix it. Thank you.

The hole is to provide atmospheric pressure inside as a reference for the gauge.  That is, the pressure indicated is relative to ambient pressure.  Or, in other words, the gauge indicates how much more pressure there is inside the pipe than outside the gauge.

If the gauge is leaking through the air vent, it is time to replace the gauge.  The internal mechanism has failed, probably by rusting through or otherwise breached the pressure-sensing diaphragm.

Freezing conditions could well stress the gauge possibly due to a little ice build up.

Yes, this is something most anyone can do.  Turn off the pump and relieve the pressure in the line (open a faucet).  Using a wrench, vicegrip, or similar tool, unscrew the gauge assembly (gauge plus its short input pipe).  Using the tool, grasp the gauge's pipe which comes out below it.  There should be a four- or six-sided grip (turn it counter-clockwise as seen from above.

If it has been installed for a long time (years), it will be reluctant to turn at first.  A longer handled tool will provide more torque, but take care to provide counter-torque to the pipe it is screwed into to prevent damaging other parts of the plumbing.  (Provide counter-torque with another wrench or tool attached to the plumbing near where the gauge is screwed into.  If the wrenches are about 90° relative to each other, it is convenient and efficient to twist them opposite to each other so that the water pipe experiences greatly lessened torque.)

Once you have the old gauge assembly out, take it to the parts store for a suitable replacement.  Consider using a fine wire brush to clean the seat (the threaded hole the gauge is screwed into); Teflon tape makes it easier to insert the new gauge.

I wouldn't wait long; do it in the next few days.  It will leak more and more the longer you wait.


How to wire a bathroom fan with a timer? From what I understand there are 3 ways to wire a bathroom fan:

Together with the lights (both are on or off);
Individual switches for lights and fan;
Put the fan (and maybe the light) on a presence sensor (which usually have a timer).

Now what I would like is to have a switch to turn the fan on and when the switch is turned off it remains on for a while. Is there a way to setup that?

There's no such thing as too many wires between the bathroom switch and the bathroom light/fan/heatlamp/whatever the future may bring. I would run at least 3 hots and a neutral, with 1 hot and 1 neutral being 12ga for a high current device. Even better, install conduit and pull whatever as needed.

I personally hate fans which turn on with the light.  I fear I'll wake others during a 3AM bathroom run.  It also wastes energy by ejecting nice warm/cool air, forcing the HVAC system to work harder.

This forum is not for "shop for you", but there's no problem getting a single switch that turns off the fan some period after it turns off the light.  the fan with a delay. on light+fan, and turns off light and adand continues the fan for a designated period.

There's also no trouble getting rundown timer switches if you want to manually trigger the fan.  However if you also have a heatlamp (commonly put on rundown timers), this will be a confusing UI.

They even make fan controls which detect humidity.  The question is whether they have, um... VOC detection.

Amazon links on SE pay a tiny commission to somebody, possibly me. It biases me toward linking products sold on Amazon.


non-continuity in an 20 amp cartridge fuse for AC condenser unit It's almost summer. I just 'fixed' my AC by replacing one of the two time-delay 20 amp cartridge fuses in the box next to my condenser.  The circuit breaker had not popped.  The other fuse had continuity.  No external signs of failure on the one did fail.

The AC has now run fine for 4 hours with the thermostat set at 55deg, is it a good bet that fuse simply aged out?  Or should I investigate further?

You don't mention the size of the breaker for the condenser circuit.  If the fuses are 20A and the breaker is 30A you'd obviously expect the fuses to blow first in an overload condition.

If the fuses are 20A and the breaker is also 20A you'd still expect the fuses to blow before the breaker in an overload condition; generally fuses blow faster than breakers of the same rating in an overload.

If the fuse is correct for the equipment and there was an overload that blew the fuse, it's possible your condenser is on the way out but it's also possible it was a one time glitch.

Years ago a lot of condensers required fused disconnects but you don't see it in recent years.  Maybe your condenser is old, or maybe there are fuses there from an older unit that's been replace - if that's the case they may not be necessary at all (the breaker may be adequate without the supplemental fusing in the disconnect) or they may not be sized correctly, just left there from the old equipment.

I'd have replaced both fuses (you now have one new one and one old one) and if it blows again, have the condenser serviced / checked.  I would not keep feeding it fuses indefinitely.

(Fuses may seem old fashioned but fuses are still very reliable protection.
 When they're old, maybe fuses may get a little faster to blow, but breakers can get a little slower, or may get a lot slower, or may not blow at all.  Old fuses may cause a nuisance but old breakers can be dangerous.)


On a thermostat, are "R" and "Rh" terminals the same thing? I have an older thermostat controlling an old ass Trane furnace with A/C. It has an "R" terminal and an "Rc" terminal (they are jumpered - see photo). I see references to an
"Rh" terminal online. Are "R" and "Rh" terminals the same thing? This video refers to connecting the other external transformer wire to an "Rh" terminal and I am confused.

R in general
R, Rh, and Rc are all the same, but not.  In general terms, the R terminal is where you connect the signal voltage source. In low voltage controlled systems, there will be a step down transformer that provides the power to the control circuitry.  One of the legs from the secondary of the transformer will be connected to the R terminal, which applies a voltage to the terminal.
When the thermostat wants to be warmed up or cooled down, it closes the appropriate switch, completing a circuit.  This allows current to flow from "into" the R terminal and "out of" the appropriate signal terminal (W, Y, etc.) of the thermostat.
R, Rh, Rc
In some systems, both the heating and cooling systems use their own signal voltage. In these cases, the signal wire from the heating system will be connected to R or Rh, while the signal wire from the cooling system will be connected to Rc.
If only a single signal wire is used, the R terminal will be electrically connected (jumpered) to Rh and/or Rc.
This answer has some diagrams that show how a simple single signal system works. This answer provides another diagram of how a single signal thermostat works, though you can easily imagine how it could be modified to allow multiple signals.
A multiple signal system would look something like this...

Click for larger view


How can I repair a leaking shower? We have a leaking shower. We have replaced the seat and stem on the  water but it still leaks. Also the diverter does not shut off all the water.

To oversimplify things, a shower control has two parts: the fixed part attached to the pipes in the wall, and everything else (which is usually the cartridge and possibly some O-rings if they are separate).

If you've replaced "everything else", then the problem is the fixed part in the wall.


Patching drywall between two corners I have an existing floor-to-ceiling narrow deep closet (11" wide opening, straight in).  I want to cover the bottom 5" with drywall, so it'll eventually look like this:

(source: hyarros.com)
Where the lavender piece indicates what I want to add.  The salmon portions are existing wall.
I'm not sure how I should go about this.  Both of the corners have a metal corner bead, which seems difficult to cut.  I was thinking of screwing an 11" 2x4 cross beam behind the patch, and then screwing the drywall to that piece.  That would have a second advantage in that I was going to add a melamine shelf on top, so the 2x4 would provide the requisite support for this shelf.
Is that the best approach?  If so, how should I screw the 2x4 into either side?  I tried driving a 2.5" screw at a 30 degree-ish angle, but it doesn't appear that strong.

Since you want to have the drywall piece be 5" high I think you will want to have backer behind it for its full height. Consider making it 5.5" high and then using a piece of 2x6  lumber (that comes 5.5 inches wide) as the backer piece. Cut a couple of pieces to straddle across the bottom of this opening at the back and middle to hold up the shelf the full length. To install the front backer piece pre-drill clearance holes through the 2x6 that let your screws slide in place. Then use screws about 3" long to secure through the existing drywall at the corners. This will end up surprisingly strong! See picture below.

The trick to get the 2x6 to screw in place would be to start two screws from each end on each side (eight screws total) and tighten them down evenly and gradually. Make sure to stagger the pre-drilled holes from side to side of the 2x6 on each end so that the screws do not collide with each other as they enter the existing corner studs.


Extending extension cord 16/3 with 12/2 cable? I have an extension cord that is 15ft and it is a 16/3. I have a 20ft of 12/2 cable. Can I use it to extend the extension cord for about 5 more feet?

The devices connected to the extension cord will still be a max of 13 amps. I just want to use the 12/2 so that I won't buy new cable.

I am thinking about cutting my extension cord (16/3) half way so that I can still use the end outlets-plug. If I can merge them, do I connect black and red from 16/3 to black on 12/2 and then black split to red and black again (see diagram)?

                            --red----              --red 16/3---
Flat Plug -- 10ft of 16/3 --         --12/2 black--              ----extension outlet
                            --black--              --black 16/3--

neutrals and ground will be connected accordingly.

Don't splice it -- you can either just buy the appropriate extension cord for the job, or use a field-installed plug + cable-mount receptacle to convert the length of 12/2 W/G into an extension cord.


What to use for huge exterior window gaps? What do I need to do in order to caulk this huge gap above an arched window?
Should I put some sort of barrier on top of the wood window frame and pipe cement to fill the gap.  It is too large for even the biggest backer rod I can find.  I am using Quad caulk and various sizes and lengths of backer rod on the other windows as their gaps are much smaller.

I'd be tempted to try and get a piece of wood in there! Cut a piece over length and leave it out in the rain leaning against a wall etc. Wet wood will eventually bend (or you can encourage it over a couple of blocks by adding a bag of sand etc.) and get something the approximate curvature you're looking for and then cut it to length.

Not the quickest solution, but cement will crack up eventually as the window moves about through the seasons.

If it's too thick to bend naturally, (it looks to be on the upper limit at around 3/4 inch or so) you could laminate a piece up. Run some timber through a table saw to get 2 or 3mm thick strips and then glue them up over a former the same radius as the window. Again, not quick but oh, so pretty!


Running wire into a shed some distance away I'm wanting to run wires underground to my shed from the house.

Run is 85 feet
I have a 30amp breaker in the house for the shed.
I'll have need for one 240v outlet and several others for 120.

I've dug the trench which is 3 ft deep. Will be putting in 1 1/4 inch conduit, will this be big enough?  I'm looking at using 10 gauge wire, but should I go to 8 gauge?  Will I need a breaker box for the shed?

Yes, you will either need a subpanel for the shed, or you will need to serve only one circuit of each voltage.

All the receptacles attached to a 30A breaker must be 30A.  You cannot hang a bunch of 15 and 20A receptacles off a 30A circuit, except by having the 30A circuit feed a subpanel.

So for instance you could run a single 120V 20A circuit, say, on two 12 or 10 AWG wires. Then a single 240V 30A circuit on 10 or 8 AWG wires, plus one ground wire for all.  Those will fit in a 1-1/4 conduit just fine, and be easy to pull.  I've pulled 12 12/10AWG wires 100 feet in a 1" conduit and that was easy.

Or you could run four 10 or 8 AWG wires and serve off the 30A breaker to a subpanel. The subpanel can be any size (larger then 30A obviously). It will need to have a main breaker in it, because you need a local shutoff switch and that's the easiest way to do it.   You will need to keep ground and neutral separate inside the subpanel, and add a local grounding rod at the shed.  I myself would run 4 AWG Aluminum because it will leave lots of headroom to 50A, and the lugs on the panels are aluminum anyway.

Also I'd get a fairly big panel.  Panel space is cheap, I'd go at least 20.  Some of them even throw in free breakers.

Adding an Image of Sub Panel Service Diagram with notes..
Borrowed from here > Link


Back door suddenly won't close I have an old wooden back door that leads to my garden. It has a mortice key lock on the handle, a sliding bolt about half a meter above it, and in-between these a latch lock that opens and closes freely so it offers no security but it doesn't hinder the use of the door.

This morning I went outside by opening the sliding bolt and then unlocking the handle with the key, and when I came back inside I locked the handle with the key and then slid the bolt across - nothing strange here. This evening I also used the door to go outside, opening it the same way I always do, but when I came to close it not a half an hour later the bolt wouldn't slide in and the key couldn't turn the deadbolt into the hole, as if the door was still open just enough that things wouldn't fit.

Naturally I opened the door all the way, inspected each locking device, and both were fine. I sprayed both of them with WD-40 for good measure. I inspected the door frame which was fine, and swept it out from top to bottom just in case there was a small stone that was preventing the door from fully closing. I also brushed off the outside of the door (the part that fits into the frame) and the edge around the door. I then closed the door and tried to lock it but it still wouldn't fit by the same degree as before I did anything to try and remedy it. If I lean my weight into the door, it does fit into place, and I can lock it with minor resistance. When I open the locks they are stiffer as a result of being pressed into their respective holes.

What has happened to my door? Being a back door it faces all weathers and despite high or low temperatures, wet or dry spells, it has never displayed resistance to being locked. It's as if some part of either the door or frame has suddenly moved by only a millimetre or two so the thing doesn't fit anymore. I even unscrewed and removed the useless latch lock just in case it was somehow interfering with something but it still won't close without being leaned into even though it did only this morning.

This type of shifting/sticking isn't uncommon with doors. Sometimes it's settling, other times it might be temperature or moisture causing swelling.
First, check the hinges and make sure that the screws are in tight. If you didn't check the door jamb on all four sides, do that.
If the door isn't closing against the stop in the door frame, check to see where it's hanging up. It could be weatherstripping or the door/frame may need sanding or planing in one or two spots.
If the door is meeting the stop on the frame evenly and the door still won't lock you may need to adjust the strike plate. You need to determine if the bolt is hitting high, low or off to the side. If you can't tell put a bit of lipstick or other colorant on the end of the bolt, shut the door and engage the bolt. You'll see a mark on the strike plate where it hit. If it's only minor interference you can use a metal file or Dremel tool to shave off enough metal from the plate to get the lock working. In most cases that will solve the problem. Otherwise you may have to shift the strike plate.


Fixing a stuck Fireplace Damper I recently bought a house with a gas fireplace. The house was built in 1997 in Texas. The fireplace damper is stuck open and I can't figure out how to fix it - I had a look and it doesn't appear to be rusted, which I've heard is the most common cause.

I have attached 2 photos - one where you can see the pole/pull attached (which I believe is the bottom of the damper) and the other which I think is the top of the damper. As far as I can tell there is a plate attached to the top of the damper which is getting stuck against a ridge/lip in the chimney. What surprised me is that it looks like maybe 1/4 of an inch worth of a lip that is blocking it - almost as if that plate was added to block it in the open position? There is also a strange clamp attached to that side, which I have no idea why it's there or if it should be there.

I haven't tried anything other than yanking down really hard on the pole/pull and also sticking my hands in there to try and push that plate past the lip. I don't want to try too much brute force since I don't have experience with this.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

That thing that looks like a weight held onto the damper by a long bolt? That's a damper clamp. When a fireplace has a damper, and is converted into a gas-burning fireplace, by code the damper must be fixed in a fully open state. Otherwise, if the damper were closed, and the gas turned on, you could get gas and/or carbon monoxide blowing into your house, either of which would make it likely you would Have A Bad Day. (This isn't required with wood fireplaces, as if you leave the damper closed then the gouts of smoke will make your mistake obvious.)

So, the solution? Leave it alone: it's possibly saving your life.

References:

https://blog.swedesweep.com/fireplace/fireplace-damper-clamps/
http://damperclamp.com/installation.php
https://forum.nachi.org/t/damper-for-gas-fireplace/118517
http://www.city-data.com/forum/house/774794-gas-fireplace-open-close-flue.html


Can I replace my broken GFCI outlet with a single outlet with 2 USB ports? The new switch does have 2 backstab holes on each the load and the neutral side, but something tells me hooking both black to one side and both white to the other is not advisable. That would be great if that would be OK...

Also currently, when I check for power with a multimeter at the bottom, hot and neutral have power. At the top, however, I have none. I've screwed with the reset button, which seems shady, maybe broken.  I'm going to assume that's the problem.

This GFCI probably has downstream outlets.

They probably were protected by the GFCI, up until the point the GFCI blew.  They will now be dead.

If any of them are in a garage, basement, laundry room, or pretty much any room containing a sink, those outlets need to still be GFCI.   So you will need to provide for their protection.

You can't defeat the GFCI ...probably.  As said, you can't break GFCI protection for any outlet that needs to be protected.

No such thing as a GFCI USB ... Yet.

The market doesn't appear to make what you want, a GFCI receptacle with a USB outlet also.   I could be wrong, if you've found one, carry on.   In the meantime, I'll talk about the workarounds in case you can't find one.

Install the GFCI protection upstream.

Follow the circuit in the other direction, back toward the circuit breaker.  These are outlets that are still working... but lose power when you turn off the breaker for this circuit.  Are there GFCI receptacles in any of those?  Is the breaker itself a GFCI?  Then you're all set.  If it's not that way, buy a GFCI outlet or breaker and  make it so.

You only need one GFCI and it will protect all the outlets downstream of it, provided those are connected to the LOAD side of the GFCI.  Some people daisy-chain GFCI's, that is redundant.

Now you can install your USB outlet (which does not have GFCI).

If you can't do the above, then replace the GFCI the way you found it, and put the USB outlet somewhere else.


How do I remove this broken CFL bulb from tiny recessed light fixture? New here, so apologies in advance if my site etiquette isn't up to scratch.
I've searched the site and found similar answers but the solutions don't work for me.
I'm trying to remove a CFL bulb from a recessed ceiling fitting. The fitting is small and fiddly, and in my attempt to pull out the bulb, the glass part is now loose in the base. If I pull any harder, the glass will detach from the plastic base of the bulb. Should I try that and just bag it quickly or is there a safer/easier way to remove this?
As per images, I can't get to the base of the connector as there's no space, and it seems the can can't be removed any further from the ceiling without causing damage (can't see any springs, clips or levers that can be adjusted).
Advice on how to proceed?

Thanks

I've had this problem several times and the way to remove the bulb is simple.
The recessed light fixture can be removed from the ceiling if while you gently pull on the outer edge of the fixture and press the clips in that you see in picture #2. You may have to pull and press alternating sides. There should be enough cable to allow the removal of the entire fixture. Make sure the power is off.
The fixture is made from two parts. There should be an indent or clip that can be pressed in to allow removal of the cone piece from the base.
Once they are separate you should be able to have a better grip on the bulb to remove it.


Trying to swap 1 outlet with a switch that doesn’t control outlets I have 3 outlets. Trying to remove 1 to put a switch to a recessed light in. But I don't want to control the outlets with the switch. What do I do?

Change the bottom one.   Black to a switch screw, the hot on the lamp's cable goes to the other switch screw.  The white does not go to the switch but goes to the lamp cable's  white wire.


The circuit breaker keeps tripping when I turn my washer on, nothing happens when its turned off When the washing machine is turned on the circuit braker keeps tripping and the washer does not come on.

I tried plugging in the vacuum and it did not trip so what is wrong?

Chances are good the problem is the washer, since the vacuum worked fine in that outlet.  To be certain, plug the washer into another outlet and see if the washer trips the breaker in the new outlet.

You should have the washer checked and serviced.  Since it's showing problems severe enough to trip the circuit breaker it's not a job you should do yourself unless you are competent troubleshooting high voltage electric circuits.


What could be wrong with my air conditioner? My outside fan (compressor?) will not turn on.  I have a week or two before the weather gets warm so thought I would try fixing it before I hire someone.

Symptoms - I turn on the air.  The blower turns on.  Nothing outside makes a sound or moves.  Now the last time I used the air conditioner in the fall it cranked up VERY loud outside.  Where I went over to see what the hell was going on.  Well it lasted for a couple minutes and then worked fine.  Tried to turn it on a few days ago for the first time this year and nothing outside came on.

What I have done so far.  All I have done so far is check that electricity is going to the outside unit.  I tested it with a voltage meter and things are flowing correctly.

I am an air conditioner noob so please help.  I can do whatever or take pictures if needed.  The outside unit is only 3 years old.

Besides checking the fuses/breakers, the fan, and any connections on the controller, there's not a lot of user serviceable parts on an HVAC system. This is because the refrigerant lines require specialized equipment to test for refrigerant levels, a license to buy more refrigerant, and even more equipment to remove the refrigerant so you can work on the compressor.

When the outside unit doesn't turn on, checking the refrigerant is typically the first step because there's a safety switch in the system that prevents the compressor from turning on without enough pressure in the lines. Without that, the compressor would turn on and burn itself out since the refrigerant also includes the lubricant for the compressor.

Do what you can to get the warranty coverage from the manufacturer, but realize that this is a situation that will almost certainly require a professional to come out and repair for you.


Can I cut a hole in a 2" x 8" joist that is less than 1/3 the height of the joist, leaves at least 2" above and below the hole, but is 10" wide? I would like to redirect a 5" air pipe to the other side of a 2" x 8", second story, floor joist so that I can have the vent exit a bathroom vanity kick plate.  I realize I cannot just drill a 5" hole through the joist, however I was wondering if it would be feasible using the method below.  It is my understanding you can only cut 1/3 the height of the joist and you must have at least 2 inches above and below the hole.  Would it be generally acceptable to place a side end-boot on the 5" pipe that transitions to 2-1/4" x 10", cut a oval hole just large enough to accommodate the 2-1/4" x 10" and pick it up on the other side of the joist with a 2-1/4" x 10" box vent?  This would leave 2.5 inches above and below the hole. I would then sandwich 1/2" ply between a second sister 2x8 joist and glue and screw each layer (and bolt if recommended).  As a very general test, I cut this size hole in a 2"x8"x8' joist, supported it at each end and bounced on it.  I realize this is not really a sound structural test but I just wanted to get a basic sense as to the remaining strength of the joist.  It was surprisingly resistant to deflection.  I would be interested in your comments/suggestion.  I have attached a couple of photos as well (one of the joist test and the other is the duct work described above).

The other option I was entertaining was to do basically use the same method above but instead of cutting the 2.25" x 10" hole; I'd drill four 2" holes side-by-side with 0.66" between each.  Then I'd screw and caulk the boot on one side of the joist and the box vent to the other side (rather than passing the entire 2-1/4" x 10" box vent through the joist).  The advantage would be that there would be 3 support "posts" between each of the four holes.  The disadvantage would be air flow restriction.

Obviously I would not want to create a structurally unsafe situation, but I was wondering if one or both of these methods would satisfy the rules for joist cutting or is it just wishful thinking.

Thanks for taking the time to read this post!

Thank you to those who commented.  Below are two images to help further explain the project. The green line indicates the future location of the vanity kick plate. The yellow line indicates the proposed new location for the 5" duct (transitioning to the 2-1/4" x 10" as described in my original post). The pink lines indicate the location for the 2x8 sister joists and the blue would be the plywood sister. All sisters would be glued, screwed and or bolted. The red "X" indicates the location where I'd like the vent to exit the kick plate. (The water supplies are old and will be moved and the new drains have not yet been installed).

The next diagram below shows how I was intending to sister the joist with two 2x4 with plywood in between.

I would also bridge the joist with vertical or horizontal 2x8 pieces where possible.

If the plan above is ill-advised; I am also considering capping the 5" duct and heating the room with under-floor electric radiant heating.  However, I'm not sure if Under-floor heating can serve as the sole heat source where temperatures can get as cold as -25 degrees. I am also concerned about the reliability of Under-floor heating.  If it failed; I'd be without heat in the bathroom.

Thanks again for any comments or suggestions.

A wooden beam like used for a joist will typically face bending loads. You'll have a great deal of compressive stress on the top of the beam and a great deal of tension stress on the bottom beam. The center serves primarily to keep the top and bottom of the beam aligned so they act as a single beam, and is under shear stress parallel to the grain.

As such, a hole like you pictured (in the center vertically and horizontally) will probably be fine.

I'd be leery of doing that closer to the end of the joist because if the shorter remaining center portion of the beam (hole to end of joist) was too short it could fail in shear and the top and bottom of the 2x10 would act as independent 4" beams (weak).

I'm not a structural or mechanical engineer, who would obviously be more qualified to determine this, but I am an engineer.


Strange 4 Way Switch I was replacing a current 4 way switch with some GE Z-Wave switches when I noticed something strange. The dead end switch box has a Romex cable with Red/White/Black/Ground wires. At the next switch box the Romex is Red/Red/Black/Ground. There is continuity between the 3 wires.

What are the possible scenarios here? I have searched and haven't found another switch, I haven't found what would appear to be another load. Could it just be a splice somewhere between the 2 switch boxes?

EDIT:

The main switch box has Load and Line, and a Romex bundle heading to switch box #1.

Switch box #1 has 2 romex going in. 3 of the lines are continuous (measured by meter) from the main switch box. The second Romex that leaves this box is Red/Red/Black/Ground.

Switch Box #2 has 1 romex in. The colors are Red/Black/White/Ground. They are continuous with the 3 wires that are Red/Red/Black/Ground in Switch Box #1.

So the question is Main Box -> Box #1 - > ? (Continuous wires, but change color) -> Box #2

Edit #2:

Above is the middle box. You can see in the top middle section of the box the 2 traveler romex bundles comming in. One from the main switch box, and the other from the dead end box. Both romex have red wires that were wire nutted together. They also both had black and what seems to be red, with white paint on it going to the switch.

Edit #3

Above is the main box. The black wire was spliced to Line. The red wire was spliced to Load (the light). the top left Romex in the box has continuity to the middle box. It has a red/black/something that appears to be red with white paint.

I don't have a picture of the 3rd box and I'm on travel for work this week. The 3rd box was the dead end and had a simple switch with a 12/3 romex with Red/Black/White(with a black line) that had continuity with one of the middle box's Romex (Red/Black/pink?).

Box that was 'buried' into the wall or a poorly made junction between 2 pieces of different wires.


How to reinforce brick pavers driveway edge? My wife wants to do "dry creek" style landscaping next to our driveway, which is built with brick pavers. Right now our lawn comes right up to the edge of pavers, and there's no edging.

I'm afraid that excavating topsoil right next to the edge of the driveway will allow edge bricks to drift away, and even if I add an edging (those plastic strips held in place with metal spikes), since on top of that edging base there will be loose stones/gravel, and not compacted dirt/lawn, it will not be sufficient to hold my driveway in one piece.

Is there anything I can do to reinforce that edge, or are my fears unfounded, and it's sufficient to just spike in paver edging?

Use a dry mix of about 60/40 Portland cement and masonry sand or bags of playground sand. ( You may need to adjust mix) I use a drill with a stirring paddle and a 5 gallon bucket. Remove 4 or 5 rows back remove original underlayment replace with mix and replace pavers.  Spraying some water on mix right before laying pavers will help it bond faster.  Remove and replace small sections so that you keep everything in place. I would also stack the pavers I remove so that they go back into there original place. I would not use concrete because of the aggregate. Take your time and good luck.


How do I interpret the type of steel used in a tool? The description states: Material: 400CC Steel. Googling 400CC Steel shows only shopping offers, not the articles or tables about steels.

How do I look up materials? Is it a good tool steel or some cheap powder one? Is there any comprehensive material ID database around?

There are many types of standards which provide Steel Grades. The one you mentioned seems to be of SAE Steel Grades.

  400  --> is a 400 series steel

  C    --> has Carbon

  C    --> has Chromium

All steels of 4xx are usually Molybdenum steels and have Ni and Cr apart from Carbon


What is the viewing window for on this tape measure? Can someone please explain me the significance of the window in this measuring tape? I am unable to understand its application.

I found the answer. The window is primarily used for measuring the inner side such as of window or door panes.


Can I still be sold plumbing fixtures that contain lead? I'm shopping for brass or stainless ball valve to replace shutoff on a plumbing line. I see on ebay that some valves are advertised as "lead-free" while others are not.  I would've assumed ALL brass/SS valves are lead-free.  If I'm concerned with lead, do I need to screen specifically for lead?

If you go to your local hardware store, no. Products sold in the US have to be lead free, since 1996

  In 1996 Congress further amended the Safe Drinking Water Act, requiring plumbing fittings and fixtures (endpoint devices) to be in compliance with voluntary lead leaching standards. The amendments also prohibited the introduction into commerce of any pipe, pipe or plumbing fitting or fixture that is not lead free.

Ebay is a bit of the "wild west", because you often have products sold direct to consumers from foreign countries (i.e. they bypass US regulations because they're sold and shipped from that country to you directly). It's easy to find Chinese or Indian products on there, and neither country has that prohibition against lead. So, yes, you probably need to screen on Ebay. If it's a serious concern for you, just buy from a US company or your local hardware store.


Can I change the plugs on low-voltage lights to allow connection to dimmable outlets? I have sockets around my sitting room that I can control and dim from the light switch.  I want to plug in some christmas lights but don't want to change all the plugs.  CAn i change the plug on a normal extension cable for a 5 amp small round pin plug and plug in some square pin lights to that, allowing me to dim from the light switch?

Michelle

Assuming by this that you mean UK standard 13A 3-square pin plugs and 5A 3-round pin plugs then yes.

I have done this for my lights for several years.

You do have to bear one thing in mind.  While 13A square-pin plugs contain a fuse within the plug, 5A round-pin plugs do not.  They are protected by the circuit breaker at the main fuse box.

I assume your 13A plugs actually contain a 3A or 5A fuse if you're using them just for fairy lights.  Check the ratings and where your round-pin sockets are actually protected.


How do I wire a switch between two 24V heating only thermostats to switch between thermostats? I have a gas-fired forced air furnace which I need to control two separate heating zones from.  One zone is to heat a crawl space only to 45 degrees and the other is the space temp of the cabin.  I want to wire a switch between the (2) separate thermostats in order to switch which zone I want to heat.  The system is 24 Volts and has three wires from the thermostat, W, R, and G.

I think you need a (dpdt) double pole double throw switch g is the fan, and w the heat both are connected to R 24v using the common of the switch back to the furnace on one side connect thermostat w on the other g.  Do the same with the second thermostat and when you flip the switch it will change the input from one thermostat to the other. Trying to make it clearer Many switches will have the marking NC and NO and common. Stat 1 to NC contacts and stat 2 to NO contacts and the common goes back to the furnace.


Should plywood be missing on my roof? I live in Canada and I just had my roof done on my house.

I recently went in my attic and found out that some part of the roof is missing plywood :(

In the following picture, there is no nails visible. Which means the shingles behind are not nailed in???

When the contractor did the estimate, he did notice places where the plywood was rotten and told me he would need to replace them. Well clearly he didn't. He just cut away the rotten plywood :(

Is that normal practice. Should I be worried or is this ok?

UPDATE:

So I did get in contact with the contractor. Apparently, this is where the old air vents were.

He tells me that there is a metal sheet between the shingles and the membrane.
He told me that the membrane that we can see in the pictures is to protect against humidity.

Is that a good practice when removing old air vents?

UPDATE 2:

Thanks for all the information, really appreciate the help.

Just to clarify, because I might have not been clear, the old vents were removed and new vents installed. I was made aware of that in the contract and the new vents are more powerfully, so for every 2 old vents removed, 1 new vent was installed. I believe this is ok.

I went back in the attic and took more photos

As for the proper amount of nailing, its really hard to tell. I'm no expert and I cant seem to see any kind of patterns with the nails. Here is a photo were I could sort of see a pattern.

UPDATE 3:

So first, I contacted the manufacturer of the shingles and explained the situation. They told me that the shingles installed over the metal sheet are NOT properly installed and that the shingles would NOT be covered under the High Wind Resistance Limited Warranty. They did suggest that I contact an inspector. The contractor that did the job was also certified with that manufacturer. So they will be looking into that.

I wrote to the RBQ, which is my province Code regulator, but did not get a reply yet.

I'm also trying to get in contact with my municipal urban department which, I have been told, can probably help me and tell me if this respects the code or not.

I was able to talk to another contractor in my region and he told me this is ok and that I shouldn't worry about it. We did have very strong wind recently and my roof did resist.

Still not sure what to make all of this.
Thanks for all the comments, really helps.

As a R.R.C. and roofer for over 25 years, this doesn't surprise me. Anyone with a pickup truck and a ladder calls himself a roofer.
This is wrong, if they eliminated vents they should have replaced the sheathing. An opening up to 4"x4" can be covered with metal, but anything bigger requires re-sheathing to eliminate a fall hazard. Also the nail pattern should be evident. Thinking you need to call an attorney. If he did this he isn't reputable so it stands to reason he won't back up his work. Always check references and reviews of your contractor. Check with the BBB to see if there are complaints. Look at their work!! Drive by a couple of their jobs, talk to homeowners if possible. Not only end result is important but being done without damaging your property and in a timely manner is just as important.


Fluorescent light fixture malfunction A fluorescent light fixture in my house looks like the attached picture when I turn it on. I replaced the light tube, but no success. If I repeatedly turn it off and then on quickly, it eventually lights up properly. Does this mean that I need to replace the starter? If not, what else might be the issue?

Yes, the fixture is stuck in start mode.  It's preheating both ends, but it's not striking.

If it has a starter, replace it.  However, if it doesn't, or if the starter doesn't fix it, it's the ballast (the bulky part which limits the current passing through the fluorescent bulb).

If you're at the point of replacing the ballast, the replacement ballast might be wired differently - keep close eye on the diagram.  Also, the new ballast would almost assuredly not use a starter.

Another option, instead of replacing starter or ballast, is to rewire for a direct-wire LED "tube".  Don't use a plug-and-play LED because that depends on the ballast/starter working, and yours doesn't.


How should one polish transparent polystyrene plastic? I've got some souvenir from overseas and I want to give it to a friend of mine. But I accidentally left some scratches on its transparent surface and now I want to polish it.

I don't really know what type of plastic the transparent surface is but after some research I figure out it should be polystyrene, since it has an injection mold at the bottom.

So I'm wondering if Novus Plastic Polish can polish it.

If it can't, what are some ways that I can successfully polish it?

I found a solution on E-how.com but I'm not sure if it will actually work (I don't want to worsen the surface):

  1 Pour some water in a large bowl.

  2 Add a tbsp. of dish-washing soap to make a soapy solution.

  3 Dip a rag in the soap solution. Clean the
  surface of the plastic with the rag. Make sure to scrub hard so as to
  remove all dirt, dust and grease.

  4 Soak a few sandpapers in water. Make sure the sandpapers are of
  different grits (for example, 200, 400, 800 to the finer 2000 grits.)
  Sandpapers should only be used on transparent or translucent
  polystyrene plastic especially those used in screens and in
  headlights.

  5 Sand the surface of the plastic gently with the wet sandpapers.
  Start with the lowest (200 grits) and sand with the finest last. Allow
  the surface of the polystyrene plastic to dry.

  6 Apply a coat of plastic polish to the surface of the polystyrene
  with a rag. Buff the waxy polish on the plastic surface using the
  rag.Allow the polish to dry on the polystyrene plastic.

  7 Wipe down the polystyrene plastic with a second clean rag. This
  second buffing will remove excess waxy polish and restore the sheen on
  the plastic.

It will really be great if someone who has experienced in polishing plastic can help.

I've used a similar process to restore hazed automotive headlights. 3M sells a kit that is used with a power drill and includes all the required materials.

I've used this kit and was happy with the results. I'm not affiliated with 3M.


Care and maintenance of deck in the garden I recently bought a house. There is a deck in the garden. It is about two or three years old. It does not seem to be in a great condition, but I have no experience with decks and find it hard to tell how bad it is and what I need to do in terms of care and maintenance.
Here is a photo of the deck:

You can see that there is a slightly darker shaded area right of the middle. When it rains, the water occasionally stands on it. Question 1: Is there anything I can do about that in terms of prevention or care?
Here is a close-up photo of the deck. Question 2: What care instructions will I need to follow? Is there some treatment or paint I need to apply to make it more waterproof or prevent further tearing and somehow make it more durable?

Here is another close-up photo. You can see both some chipping and some tearing, especially where knots occur in the wood. Question 3: Is this normal, what can I do to prevent it, and what did the previous owners do wrong for it to happen?

Question 4: How many summers will I be able to use it before I need to replace it? Thanks.

From what I can see, it looks to be in pretty good shape. You want to start out by getting a deck wash from your home store and applying it according to instructions. You usually spray it on with a garden sprayer and then pressure clean it off. Stick to setting the pressure cleaner at around 1800 PSI, 2000 max. More than that and you can damage the wood. Then you have to decide whether to use a stain sealer (which I prefer) or a deck paint. Depending on your use of the deck and your climate, you'll have to do this every couple of years.
The cracks in the knots are pretty common and the previous owners couldn't to much to prevent that. If they really bug you or get worse, you can replace the boards if you can find the same type at your home store or lumber yard. The boards were screwed in place so replacing a few won't be too hard. Hopefully, they used stainless screws.
This deck should last for years and will depend on how well it's cared for. Only time will tell but mine have lasted 15 to 20 years in hot, rainy south Florida


Safest electric cable to use in insulated walls and attics, fire prevention Is there any standard out there in terms of ranking residential electrical cable options for fire safety, specifically in enclosed and/or insulated spaces?

I've read that old knob & tube is actually very safe, if undamaged, due to the distance between the wires. What about as compared to NM, or armored cable (MC), or NM-in-conduit?

I'm new to this stuff, so I apologize if my terminology/usage is incorrect...

(We have knob & tube in our walls and attic, and I'm wondering if having an electrician replace some of it, in areas where we want various electrical and insulation changes/upgrades, is actually going to reduce fire safety.)

Metal conduit is considered "noncombustible", which means if there's a fire, it shouldn't burn. However, if the wires/cables inside the conduit produce heat, the conduit does nothing to prevent the transfer of that heat (aside from possibly spreading it out).  Therefore, it does nothing to prevent fires. Though it may reduce toxic fumes, and will not become a fuel in the event of a fire.

If you're looking to reduce the risk of a fire being started by the electrical system. You should be looking at circuit breakers and other similar devices protecting the wires, not so much the wires themselves.

If you can accurately detect potential fire hazards as they happen, and take steps to reduce and/or eliminate them. The wires themselves don't matter much. Installing and maintaining high quality short-circuit, overload, overcurrent, arc-fault, and ground-fault devices will reduce fire hazards.

If you're really concerned about electrical fires, installing larger wires than are required can help. Larger wires will be able to dissipate more heat, and therefore will be less likely to start a fire (when properly protected). For example, using 12 AWG conductors on 15 ampere circuits, will provide the protection device additional time to respond to a hazard.

Increasing the number of circuits, can reduce the tendency to overload the circuits, thus reducing one fire hazard.  If you have a room where a lot of equipment will be plugged in, consider installing two or three general receptacle circuits instead of one.