Adding a C wire to older 3 wire How do I use the green wire as a C wire as suggested in most installation instructions for the newer wi-fi thermostats?
 They all reference terminal strips at the furnace, all I have is the 3 wire nuts on a older Lennox ES5 series.
 Thank you.

It would appear from the pictures that the blue and orange wires (wire nutted to the red thermostat wire) should go back to the transformer for one of the two 24 volt wires. The other 24 volt wire on the transformer is the common to hook up to the thermostat. There should be 2 other wires that are line voltage coming out of the other end of the transformer. Don’t mess with those. Depending on the transformer there may be multiple taps, without seeing the transformer it would be difficult to tell which ones to use unless the transformer is marked.

Great background on thermostat wiring is at:
How can I add a "C" wire to my thermostat?


dimmer switch for both low voltage LED and leading edge at the same time? I'm installing LED ceiling lights that come with analog low voltage control for dimming (i.e., 4 wire). However there is one existing sconce light that I hope to not replace. Would like it to also dim, but using 2 wire, leading edge control. I see a controller that offers all three types of controls but there appears to be toggle switches to select which. I'd like both simultaneously. Hoping the black is leading edge simultaneous with the low voltage. Basically don't know if the four wire control black is on continuously or leading edge switched.

The sconce is a standard screw in bulb socket. Currently with common CFI but the plan would be to switch to a dimmable LED bulb able to work on leading edge.

Yes, the analog low voltage is 0-10v (analog 4 wire).

My suggestion would be to use a garden-variety incandescent dimmer, connect the sconce light to it directly, then connect a Lutron GRX-TVI to it and use it to provide 0-10V to the LED driver.


creating a 120v circuit from a 240v SEU circuit? first time here! and big apologies upfront if I'm repeating an already answered question - - searched but could find this exact answer, so here goes?

What I've got:
 a 1980's 240v circuit for an elec. range that starts at the box with  6 gauge (I believe) 6/2 SEU AL wiring coming out of a Square D 2-pole 50a breaker, and terminating in the kitchen to a Slater 3-prong NEMA 10-50 outlet.

What I need:
a simple 120v/15a circuit for the new gas range.

So, I found a video that basically said;
(a.) pull the 50a breaker and disconnect the two Black leads from the SEU cable,
(b.) connect one of those Black leads to a new 15a single pole breaker and install (cap off the other Black lead)
(c.) remove the Slater outlet, cap off the corresponding Black lead and "pigtail" the remaining Black lead and the concentric Neutral with a couple of 14 gauge copper jumper wires (using AL->CU wire nuts)
(d.) connect these two copper jumpers to a new 120v/15a outlet. Turn on the new 15a, single pole breaker and you should have 120v at the new outlet

So then, what do you all think? Will it fly? Danger of fire? Can't afford that, it's a gas range....
Huge thanks in advance for your advise!

SEU is special

There was once an exception in Code that allowed SEU cable (and only SEU cable, not NM or other such) for hot-hot-neutral to ranges. This was only allowed due to intense lobbying by the appliance industry, and was outlawed in 1989 when Reagan handed the reins to George Bush Sr.

Since it was once legal, this setup is grandfathered for an old 3-prong range.  But only for ranges -- for nothing else since it lacks a ground.

And then Ground Retrofit rules happened, allowing you to wire just a ground from that range outlet to the nearest place with #10 or larger ground wire back to the panel - a (wired ground) water heater, air conditioner, a metal conduit that is continuous back to the panel, the grounding electrode wires from panel to ground rods, etc.

Retrofit a ground wire

Congratulations.  There you sit, with a 4-wire connection. You have 2 hots (black wires), neutral, and the ground you just retrofitted.  This setup is now totally Code legal.  Be careful to wrap the old braided neutral with tape - it must not accidentally touch the ground wire.

Neutral is not Ground, and they must be kept separate (except for the N-G bond in the main panel).

... Now you can fit a 120V receptacle there

At this point, you can pigtail off the 3 wires - one hot, neutral and ground - to attach #12 or #14 wire for your outlet, and go re-breaker the hot-in-use to 15A.

Further, you would be able to convert this back into an electric range connection in the future, with the modern, safe  4-wire type of connection.

Pigtailing off aluminum is tricky. Wire nuts won't cut the mustard.  The purple wire nuts are garbage, and the Internet is thick with pictures of melted and burned purple wire nuts.  What you need is a Polaris connector (AKA AlumiConn). Turns out copper wires work just fine on aluminum lugs, and that's what these are. Two lugs back to back, wrapped in insulation.  Either factory wrapped, or you-wrap-em-but-don't-mess-up.

Your wires are supposed to be 4 AWG but might be 6 AWG. Alumiconns won't cut it, they only work up to 10 AWG.  So you'll need a proper Polaris connector (3 of them).  Now, these all support quite a range of wire sizes, but get ones that are barely big enough for your wires.  Otherwise you're dealing with needless bulk and expense.  So don't just grab one that supports fat 2/0 wire, get one whose largest size is #4 (or #6 if you know your wires are that).   If you can't find any that support #14, you can bump your pigtail size to #12.

Plan B: If one SEU wire is white or white-marked

If you get in there and discover one of the SEU hot wires actually is white or has 3 white stripes, then that wire is usable as a neutral wire.  Then you can avoid retrofitting the ground.  Re-task the braided neutral to be ground. Re-task the neutral-marked hot to be neutral.  Pigtail with Polaris connectors, and you're done.


Need help with repairing a door Someone must have kicked in the door of the house I just bought. The door faces the sun all day long. It is really unsightly and doesn't seat well. I think this is a bit out of my hands to repair. My questions are:

How much work will need to be done where the strike plates are?
Is the door itself done for and should I buy a new door?
Does the door need to be adjusted to make it so light doesn't come through? I have put new weather stripping in place but the light is still coming through where the door connects to the wall.

You are ready for a new door and door jamb.


How to remove big PVC coupler in hot tub This PVC coupler is dripping enough to empty my hot tub in a few weeks. I can't figure out how to remove it. Do I need to cut? Or is there some way to get it off, put new sealing tape, and put it back?

It's threaded; odds are good you don't have sufficient leverage if you're trying by hand. I'd suggest a large pair of water pump pliers, which are a fair bit more useful to have around than a large pipe wrench. You're less likely to bust anything with pliers too.


Where is the C wire in this tangle of wires? I have looked and searched, but still iffy where to connect the c wire coming from the thermostat.

I appreciate any help.

"C" is not always labelled as such.

If you can determine the two wires on the 24V side of the transformer (load side), then find which of the two wires on that side is running to "R" on the thermostat. The wire NOT running to "R" is always "C".


Three sets of lights, turned on together or separately I have three different lightswitches in my kitchen, and they control three different sets of lights in the room. I would like to control each set separately with a switch for each one, but also be able to control all three together with a single switch.

This seems like it shouldn't be too complicated, but I just asked the electrician doing work here and he said it would be very complicated and expensive. Is there a simple and elegant way to do this? Is there a specific kind of switch for this? How much would you expect it to cost to have this done?

Cheap and simple doesn't work with what you're asking. The most you could probably do is keep the "master" switch for each section and wire another switch on each light which, at most, would only be able to toggle select lights individually if the "master" switch is in the on position.

The only other way to obtain what you're looking for is with electronically controlled switches and relays which, exactly how it sounds, is not simple nor cheap.


Are our cracked roofing tiles dangerous? We had some felt replaced on our roof a couple of months ago. After the job had been done I went up the scaffolding and took a look at the outside of the roof. See photos at the bottom of this post. I noticed some cracked tiles which I photographed but didn't think much of it.
Just a couple of days ago someone came to clean our gutters, and upon completion they told me that our cracked tiles are dangerous and we should get the roof replaced urgently.
Are they really dangerous? Or is this just a cosmetic problem?

The tiles provide protection to the water proof barriers below it. A chipped tile isn't dangerous if it's still secured to the roof with the mortar or foam adhesives they used today. If it's not secure, it could slip out while you're walking on it and you could fall. Walking on lose tiles could damage the layers below, causing leaks. The chipping or broken tiles usually are caused by people walking on them and stepping close to the tile edges. If you have a pieces, there are many types of roof tile adhesives that match roof tiles and you can reattach the pieces. If whole tiles are broken, you might be able to find replacement tiles. If not, you can get some tile mortar and rebuild the tiles. Throw on some matching paint and you're good to go.


Is it acceptable to have an electrical box the same depth as the stud? I have several "SuperBlue" electrical boxes.  These are very sturdy boxes and have the most room (cubic inches) possible without being too deep to fit in a stud space.

However my question is: If code says we must staple wire to the center of studs and drill holes in the center to avoid using metal nailing plates...what do I do when my box is literally 1/4" from being the same depth as my 2x4 interior walls?  We all know the wires enter at the very rear end of the electrical box, meaning I have wires well past that safety point of drywall screws at electrical box locations.

Is this acceptable?

Yes, that is acceptable. If you think there's a particular danger to that one wire (cabinetry/trim going on the other side), you can always install a 4x6 nail plate over it.


Which type of seal on a French door refrigerator is more reliable? I'm going to buy a French door refrigerator and have seen 2 types of seals for the seam between the two doors.  One is the usual rubber+magnetic seal, but of course each door has the magnetic rubber gasket facing the other door.  The other type of seal is a long strip of plastic and metal that flips 90 degrees when you open and close the door.  On this one, each door's magnetic rubber gasket seals against the long strip.  To me it seems like the one with the flipping strip might be more durable over time and it seems like the seal would be less hassle to repair.

Has anyone had much experience with either of these types of seal?  When it goes bad, how expensive and how difficult is it to repair?

I have only had experience with the rotating strip on two different brands of French-door refrigerator. On both, the flipping mechanism works well the vast majority of the time.  However, it occasionally will get bumped to the "closed" position while open, preventing the refrigerator from actually closing correctly. It simply must be flipped back to the "open" position and reclosed. The seal works well.

On the first refrigerator, we had it for several years and never had a repair issue. On the second, after about two years, one of the plastic hinges that hold the flipper to its door has cracked. Despite this the mechanism still works but is a bit more prone to the mis-flip issue. Has not been replaced yet, and the service says the whole flipper mechanism needs to be replaced. Cannot speak to whether this is a fluke or a common problem.

Overall I like this type of mechanism, despite the problem, but have nothing to compare it to.


Additional brick veneer to existing construction I am looking at a home that is a 2 story colonial. The first 10 feet or so from the ground is brick veneer (one row thick), and the upper story is vinyl. The vinyl is looking pretty bad. Is it possible, that since the foundation is obviously there for the first story brick, that I could remove the siding, and just continue the brick to the top?

Yes, a typical stepped foundation should carry two stories of brick just fine. That said, I'm looking at your project through a few words on the internet. Photos would move us in a more confident direction.


Question on relative warp resistance of engineered wood I aim to place, unsecured, (though blocked from movement on 3 sides) a piece of sheet/engineered wood on top of the side rails of a single bed frame. The siderails are 2 cm wide and will be acting as if beams supporting a subfloor.
The horizontal space between the siderails is approx 92cm and the length is approx 191cm.

My understanding is I will be outwidth the max recommended spar/beam distance for a subfloor where I have seen a rough max of 60cm for a sheet of mdf at 22mm thick.

Can anyone recommend the best type of engineered wood for this please?
IE
•   particle board/chipboard
•   mdf
•   plywood (softwood)
•   plywood (hardwood)

And possibly a thickness though I guess the thickest would be best?

Looks not important, I just want the type of engineered wood that is least likely to warp.
Thanks
G

You will want plywood for the application that you desire. The 92cm (36.22 inches) width demands a thick plywood to prevent flexing and warping. Good quality plywood that is 20mm (0.75 inches) thick should be adequate for that width just a small amount of flex.

As a point of reference in the past I had built a platform bed for a daughter that used a 22mm (0.75 inch) thick fir plywood base that was supported along the two long edges very similar to what you are proposing. That plywood was 99cm (38 inches) wide and it was plenty sturdy enough. As a matter of fact to make that platform bed easier to easier to transport and assemble that base plywood was cut in two separate pieces instead of the full length of the bed frame.


How do I add a receptacle from a switch located on the end run of an existing split receptacle? I need to add a new receptacle to a room. The only convenient source of power for that receptacle in behind a light switch. The challenge is that the aforementioned switch is located on the end run of an existing split receptacle. So there is only 1 cable running into the switch box, coming from existing receptacle, and white wire is marked as hot. The existing receptacle is too far to be a viable solution to wire from there. My only option is from switch box. Am I out of luck?

That switch box contains 2 hots and no neutral. So without running any new wire, your only option would be to re-wire the outlet so that it is no longer switched and use the switch box as a junction box.

Here's a before and after diagram. Note that the "neutral" between the switch and the outlet is actually your white wire that has been relabeled hot.

Thinking about it again, you could make your NEW outlet switched in this configuration.


Will a nest work for my hvac system I have a heat pump system and would like to get a nest thermostat.  On my system I have to switch it from heat to cold.  See picture of wiring.  If a nest won’t work what WiFi enable one will work.

Nests have no trouble with heat pumps
A simple, single-stage heat pump like yours shouldn't be an issue for a Nest, even the stripped down E model.  Your wiring goes as follows:

Red to R or Rc
Blue to C
White to AUX if present, or W1 if not
Yellow to Y1
Green to G
and Orange to O/B

Just remember to set your Nest up for a heat pump and set its O/B setting for an O wire if it isn't set that way already, and you should be good to go.


How can I replace a NEMA 6-30 cord & plug with a NEMA 14-30 cord & plug? I recently purchased a used SA-6E compressor from a dive shop I work with. I had to switch out the NEMA 6-30 plug to a NEMA 14-30. This was done with a complete new plug and cable.

I connected the NEMA 14-30 plug exactly as the old plug was wired. However upon starting the compressor the compressor now stutters. I think it is not drawing enough power, did I wire the plug wrong? I have it plugged into a dryer outlet with a 30 amp fuse.

How many volts/amps does the Nema 14-30 normally put out through the black/red terminals? Does the red terminal/wire put more out?

NEMA 14-30 is 120/240V, with neutral to provide 120V from either hot to neutral. Hots are normally black and red and neutral is white.

NEMA 6-30 is 240V only with no neutral. Presumably in the old cord, black and white were the hots.

You need to cap off the new white wire (neutral) and connect the red (hot2) in its place to L2.


best type of bulb in glass ceiling fixture what is the safest type of bulb to use in a glass ceiling enclosure, now that the 60w incondecents are no more ?   Would it be Halogen, CFL or LED ?

LEDs are completely the win.  That is the way to go.  They last 30 years (probably longer, realistically, no one knows). You can get them in any color temperature or CRI you want, you don't need to get harsh LED if you don't want to.

CFL is dead.   It was only ever a "gap technology" to temporarily gain efficiency until LED manufacturing was able to catch up.

Incandescents will be around for a long time, in improved forms such as halogen.  They aren't that efficient, they get hot, and they burn out.  Only use them if you have an engineering requirement for incandescents specifically (such as a doghouse warmer, or oven light).


Is it typical that smoke detectors in adjacent apartments be linked? I rent the downstairs apt of what used to be a garage. There is one other unit located on the second floor. My smoke alarm was going off frequently without my knowing why. Landlord finally told me this last (9th) time, that the upstairs and downstairs smoke alarms are hard wired together so I know if my neighbor has set their place on fire, and vice versa. Needed to be that way to be up to code.

Is this a normal occurrence? Thanks.

It depends on your building/fire code jurisdiction, some do and some do not.  More importantly, if the garage is a separately occupied dwelling it should be isolated from the other apartment via fire-resistant materials.  This presumption (which is almost always a part of the local building code) is what alleviates the need for an interconnected alarm in the practical sense.  If it's not, I would sleep well knowing that a fire in the other unit would trigger the alarm and wake me up.


How to caulk uneven gap in corner of kitchen backsplash? We have tiled the backsplash in our kitchen. The grouting is done and we are caulking. We are having problems caulking the corners where the two walls meet. (The vertical line) The tiles are uneven and we are getting a wobbly caulk line. Any ideas on how to make this look like a straight line? Thanks in advance

I think the trouble is with your tooling method. It's wobbly. :)

Either trim your tube better to act as a forming tool itself, or make a tool out of cardboard or plastic, or purchase one of those found at hardware stores to achieve more consistency.

You could also mask the lines with tape, caulk, and remove the tape. This may leave raised edges, though.


How should I deal with pine needles falling from tree onto roof? I live in a 100 year old house with an addition on the back. We have a pine tree that is hanging over the addition. The roof and sky lights are leaking. The rest of the roof is ok. We want to just replace the 35+- year old sky lights, shingles and flashing. We are planning on keeping the pine tree. But I was hoping that someone can make recommendations for what kind of flashing that we should use and is it worthwhile going for something other than asphalt shingles? We will probably get Velux sky lights.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

Metal roofing will shed pine needles far better than asphalt shingles will. Still, trimming the tree is your best option, particularly since the skylights will make an area where the debris is easily trapped.
Putting "crickets" (peaked flashing) above them as for a chimney might reduce that somewhat .vs. the way they are now.


Why does my heater have a weak flame after restarting? I have a Intertherm M1M It runs great one time then gives a weak flame (after the flame goes out) after reaching temp. I changed the igniter/temp sensor (one unit). I replaced the main board also. Still the same problem.

Could it be the thermostat?

Thanks.

The thermostat should turn the system on and off. If you are having problems with intermittent flame you may have moisture in your line. I usually install drip legs after the shutoff valve prior to the furnace, water heater or range this traps the water. A drip leg is a T with a short section of pipe going straight down that is capped. This leg catches rust, and moisture. 1 drop of water in a gas valve can cause problems so I would check to see if you have a drip leg and if so shut the gas off and clean it. If you don't install one. I have had homes that had horrible moisture problems in gas lines and others that had almost no problems. Since you have thrown all those parts at it I would be looking at moisture as the possible cause.


Putting in a new 240v circuit for a dryer The run is around 85 feet. Would #10-3 wire be ok to use or would I need to go with #8-3?

10/3 will be more than fine

You won't start hitting voltage drop issues (upwards of 3%) on a 10AWG dryer circuit (~21A at 240V, using the Article 220 standard dryer load of 5kVA) until you hit about 160' of distance -- feel free to plug the numbers into your favorite voltage drop calculator and see what comes out.


Should I be worried about the weight of french drain gravel on my foundation? Should I be concerned about the added weight of 3/4" river rock in a french drain 12 inches from my foundation?  If there is already a crack in the foundation and a slight lean, will the weight of the gravel add pressure?  I've seen that river rock displaces weight horizontally better than sediment or other gravel.

My trench is already wider than my 4 inch pipe so I'm thinking of digging the gravel out and putting dirt behind the fabric to narrow the trench and reduce the amount of gravel.

Any thoughts?

Sure, everything affects the load on your footing. However, eliminating moisture (water) on your footing is more important.

There are three types of loads  that affect the displacement of your footing: 1) Dead Loads, 2) Live Loads, and 3) Superimposed Loads.

1) Dead Loads include the weight of the footing, building loads on the footing, and soil on and around the footing. Depending on the “angle of repose” of your soil conditions, all the soil or gravel next to your footing can add a load to the existing soil bearing.

Gravel can weigh about 90 lbs. per cubic foot (dry) and soil is about 100 lbs. per cubic foot (dry and depending on the type) and water is about 62 lbs. per cubic foot. Wet soil and water soaked gravel is considerably heavier.

As you can see, gravel and soil has similar weight characteristics. So, when you replace the soil with a 4” perf pipe and gravel, the weight is probably less, due to the void in the pipe.

2) Live Loads of people, benches, landscaping, etc. also adds weight and should be considered.

3) Superimposed Loads such as a parked car next to the footing also adds weight and should be eliminated from the area by the footing.

Summary:

Many things contribute to loading weight to the soil under the footing and can contribute to settlement. Just because the soil or gravel is not directly on top of the footing, it can still add “load” to the soil under the footing due to the angle of repose of the soil. A safe rule of thumb is anything (including Live Loads and Superimposed Loads) within a 45 degree angle from the edge of the footing will contribute “load” and cause settlement.

BTW, don’t install the gravel below the existing footing within the angle of repose. Otherwise you could undermine the bearing of the footing.


Paint left on electrical wires in switches and outlets? I recently replaced all my outlets in my apartment. Several of them have what looks like splotches of spray paint on the wires. Is this hazardous? And if so, what can be done about it?

This is a nuisance caused by sloppy drywalling and painting, and is utterly harmless.


What are my options for asphalt driveway repair and/or sealing? I live in New England and my asphalt driveway is showing a lot of cracks.  There's also a little divot in one flat spot that collects water.

What are my options for getting the driveway back to looking good, and stopping any further damage?

I'm repairing my asphalt driveway currently.  I have lots of cracks that grow weeds through.  I tried to get it sealed with liquid sealant, but within a couple of months it was clear that this didn't work, because many new weeds have grown through the sealant.

I think the workers who did the sealing did a really poor job, and I regret hiring them.  Since then, I've read several DIY articles about it and I've started fixing the cracks myself.  Here's what I'm doing:

Clean driveway.  I used a stiff broom, and even my shop-vac right over the cracks.
Clear out the cracks.  Remove weeds, dirt, debris.  Scrape the crack out with a prybar.  Clean again with a garden hose on "jet" setting.  Let dry.
Fill the cracks with asphalt filler.  This comes in tubes like caulk, and I use a caulking gun to apply it.  I use a cheap putty knife to smooth the top of the caulk.  It's messy stuff, and I need to clean my tools with a powerful solvent.  I use Gunk, an engine de-greaser.
Once I have all the cracks repaired with caulk, I plan to re-seal the driveway again with liquid sealant.  I agree with @Scott Vercuski, wear clothes you plan to throw out.  I saw the workers using a pushbroom to spread the liquid, so I recommend getting a pushbroom you plan to use only for this project.

I also have a couple of spots where a crack has let water seep in and erode a cavity beneath the asphalt.  I'm going to have to chip out a section of asphalt with a hammer and chisel and restore it with with asphalt patch.  This might be what you have to do with your low spot.


How do I replace a broken light fixture? One of the claws on my 3-clawed light fixture, sheared clean off while I tried to pry it open to remove the dome in order to replace a light bulb. Do I need to replace the whole fixture? If so how do I remove it?

In hindsight, I think this past question might have also helped out:
How can I change the bulb in this three-clawed, ceiling-mounted dome light fixture?

A picture of what you currently have would allow us to help you out more, but I'll go on the assumption that it needs to be replaced..

In this case, it's a pretty simple process. Switch off the power back and the breaker and finish removing the dome if you haven't yet, again the above question link could help. If you're able, test the sockets with some form of voltage tester (or even a good bulb that works on another lamp) to ensure that the power is off. Then on the base that is mounted to the ceiling, there will either be some screws holding it up or a center threaded rod which will have a nut and washer holding the fixture to the ceiling. In either situation, unscrew it, but keep a hold on base as it will only be held up by the wires after it has been disconnected from the support. You should be able to pull it down enough to see the wiring above the base within it's electrical box. Disconnect the light from the wiring and you're good to go. Follow the instructions that are included with your replacement fixture and you'll have light back in no time.


Steel basement columns have rusted and split open I have basement columns that have rusted and split open. Do you think I need replace them? Thanks!

Thanks a lot for the quick answer, there are five columns in my basement and three of them had split open. the other two had little rust. basement is dry and no crackles on the floor at all. Seems to me it is the concrete inside the column attract some moisture and the column start rust from inside first. I think I need have someone replace at least three of them.Anyone have idea how much it cost? Also since those columns support the beam.I am little worried if the new column install little different. will the upstairs wall crack little bit since the shape of the support beam may change little bit?

A lot of variables... one of the most important is what load they are supporting and how badly are they rusted aside from the split. Unless you are in a position to accurately gauge their "importance" to the structure you really should consult a qualified contractor.  From the look of the photo there appears to be some buckling where the seam has split which seems very unusual to me and cause for concern.  The good news is that if everything else is OK, it's a pretty simple and inexpensive repair.


How can I calculate the minimum allowable cross sectional area of a table leg? I plan to DIY a 6 legged table with the following dimensions:

140 cm long
70 cm wide
100 cm high

I know the breaking strength of the wood, but not sure how to calculate how thickness of the table legs that I need. The loading weight for the table will be around 400~500kg.

I'm planning to use 6cm * 6cm wood for the legs. Is that big enough to be safe?

The maximum load you can place on a relatively slender column such as a table leg is usually dictated by the buckling strength, rather than the compressive strength. The critical load can be calculated using Euler's formula applied to a fixed-free column:

Pcr= (pi^2*EI)/(f*Le^2)

where E is the modulus of elasticity
      I is the area moment of inertia (w^4/12 in this case)
      Le is the effective length (2L in a fixed-free case)
      f is the safety factor

Naively assuming that the entire load is uniformly distributed, the loadings on each leg are centric (perfectly rigid table top), and the loading on each leg is 1/6th of the total (six-legged tables are statically indeterminate), then each leg is subject to a loading of 654-818 Newtons.

Plugging in a length of 1 m, a safety factor of 10 (lots of assumptions here) and one of the following values of modulus of elasticity:

9 GPa (pine)
11 GPa (oak)

we get a minimum leg width dimension of:

3.9 cm (pine)
3.7 cm (oak)

I'd still stick with your initial plans for 6 cm square legs though. There are a lot of assumptions made for those calculations, including no lateral loading, no deflection of the table top, no knots or imperfections in the wood, and overlooking the fact that wood is anisotropic.

If you're working with a different type of wood, here's a good chart for modulus of elasticity (PDF) (don't forget to convert from MPSI to GPa!)


Two showers with two different water temperatures I have 2 showers upstairs in my colonial, one in each bedroom. However the hot water temperature coming out of one is significantly lower than that of the other. I had the cartridge replaced on the one with lower temperature.

Is there anything I can do to equalize the temperatures?

Your Cartridge comes from the factory with a temperature mix set point. You can adjust the set point on the cartridge - the manufacturers directions should show you how to do this - and since you replaced the cartridge yourself - it should be easy for you to do, and you can then check and adjust your other shower as well if you like.

I will say this - there is no indicator that says 110 Degrees turn to this point here. You will need to do a bit of trial and error ..


How long can I store a bag of Quikrete? I had planned to find a nook in the low-humidity house in which to shove it, but it would be interesting to know how long the bag will keep in various humidities.

The main question is: How long can I store a (new, sealed) bag of Quikrete in the house with central AC and heat?

I don't expect there to be a perfect answer to this question, so I'll upvote any useful insight (ie "I kept a bag for X years and it was fine" or "I kept a bag for X years in the garage and it turned to a brick").

Depends on how exactly you store it. If you want to keep it around as long as possible without becoming a brick, put it in a seal-able plastic tub with desiccant packs and keep it in your house (as you said you were).

Too much effort in my opinion. Just take it back to the store, get your money back, and repurchase a new bag in the future when needed.

I've had bad experiences with them turning into bricks in a high-humidity basement; took about 6 months for it to happen.


Can I run conduit in an open ceiling on top of the bottom part of the rafters in a commercial building? Wiring an old pole barn to be used as a commercial building

You can run most any rigid, PVC and or EMT conduit as this is a dry location it will need to be secured within 3' of the box and depending on size anchored to the rafter every 10' feet. I just double checked the support for PVC in the smaller size is 3', I don't use PVC very often but it is very easy to install. Code may require this to be done by an electrician because it is commercial. A home owner can do all there own work but when it goes industrial or commercial depending on local code it may require a licensed electrician.


Is it affordable and reasonable to create a tub using tile I'm considering purchasing a house where I'd want to remodel the bathroom. I know there are plenty of plastic and freestanding options for tubs but I can't find any resources for using tile and grout to create a tub.

My speculation is the reason you can't find resources for that specific approach is because that approach is inferior in almost all ways to modern tub construction.
Most importantly: tile and grout is mostly water-tight; fiberglass or cast-iron tubs are entirely water-tight. As you probably know, any amount of regular water leakage into unintended areas can cause huge problems. This is why tile and grout is fine for areas with indirect water (e.g., tub surrounds) - though this still should be backed by a water-barrier (e.g., Redgard) and concrete board. Even when you see tile and grout shower floors, these are always underpinned by a "shower pan" - which is 100% water-tight. Tile and grout is, to some, a better aesthetic choice, but it is worse in the practical considerations of water control.
There are other, less critical reasons that it is avoided: one, it's generally more expensive to manually tile and grout anything than it is to purchase a prefabbed, mass-produced version; two, the curves and smooth presentation of almost all tubs is much more difficult to accomplish with tile and grout; three, a smooth fiberglass wall is much more comfortable to move your bare skin across than tile and grout (ever try and slide across your kitchen floor on your stomach?). All of these can be mitigated with highly skilled craftsmanship, but that's much harder to find than a tub at your nearest hardware store.
You do see tile and grout approaches in some large-scale water containers like public pools or spas, but even these are almost always built on top of concrete and dirt (where the small water leakage is controlled or irrelevant). Here the tile is for aesthetics and durability (a porcelain tile will wear down much slower than a concrete wall due to its hardness).
To summarize and directly answer your question: it can be done, but it will be far more difficult of an approach than any standard method because the installation will be customized and extra considerations will have to be taken to control the water. At the very least, it should use porcelain tiles (more water-resistant than standard ceramics) on top of Redgard/Redgard-equivalent on top of some kind of water resistant substrate (concrete forms, concrete board, shower pans, etc.). The last part will be the most difficult and particular part of the process, as standard construction materials will not adhere to a typical bathtub shape.


Do I need to remove tub to fix the subfloor? I had hired a flooring company to replace vinyl with new tiles. When they removed the underlayment, it turned out there was some mold on the subfloor near the tub (see pics). The flooring guy said that they cannot fix it because the tub needs to be removed.
Should I find someone to fix it or just lay new tiles on top without fixing it?
Do I need to remove the tub to fix this?

My suggestion

paint the mold with Javex and ventilate room with open window until white and dry, the. Scrape residue to hard clean surface, vacuum clean up and seal tub well.

Ensure tile grout is seal coated for moisture resistance.
Then get 2 more quotes.


Empire Wall Furnace Blower Problem I have 35,000 BTU wall furnace with a blower motor.  When the furnace heats up, the blower starts for about 2 or 3 seconds, turns off for about 5 seconds, then back on for 5 or 6 seconds, then off for 5 or 6 and then back on as it should (stays on).  Shuts off appropriately as it is controlled with thermostat.  I am trying to figure out why it hesitates to start at the beginning.  I have oiled the motor-  it spins freely and makes no noise.

I doubt this is a motor problem. Sounds more like a thermostat problem, but not the main heater thermostat. The fan has its own control which, according to the manual, starts the fan 5 to 10 minutes after the furnace starts and then it runs until 5 to 10 minutes after the furnace stops. My hunch is that it is temperature-controlled and is cycling too fast at the beginning - i.e., it blows for 2 seconds, which cools down the initial air flow so fast that it turns itself off, then starts again after another 5 seconds, etc. until it runs continuously.
If it has always been this way, contact the manufacturer.
If it used to work correctly and recently started having this problem, a good cleaning may help.
By the way, I find it interesting that the blower kit is optional. 35,000 BTU is quite a bit of heat to generate without a blower. So I would definitely want that fan running well to circulate the heated air.


Wiring change 4 prong to 3 prong Can I change a 4 prong wiring to a 3 prong on a washer/dryer combo? Would it be the same procedure as it would be if it was just a 240 volt dryer?

The new code requires that all 240-volt residential appliances that require a neutral to also have a separate properly sized ground wire present as well.


What type of air hose should I use? I have the compressor which can be seen below and I would like to connect one of the the two Alligator Compressor Nipples.

Question

Will the hose work with the first nipple?

Does there exist a special hose for the second nipple? Or does there exist a converter?

You are going to need an adapter to get the hose attached to the compressor, then another adapter to get the compressor nipple attached to the hose. The adapters look like this:

This nipple comes in a variety of sizes, so you have to match it for intended usage. This nipple will go into the coupler on the compressor and female threaded end would be attached to the top end (as looking at the picture) of the hose. You'll need another similar nipple attached to the end of the tool end which looks like this:

You'll notice the big difference here is that it has a male threaded end. This (obviously) will go into the female threaded end on the tool.

These adapters can be made out of brass, aluminum, or what have you. For best results, I've used Teflon tape around the threads to minimize air leakage.


Clothes washing machine doesn't heat water yet reports no errors I have a Samsung Ecobubble washing machine that is less that 2 years old, model WF90F7E6U6W. It appears to not heat the water any more but also reports no error codes either. Given that this is a modern machine with extensive controls, how is it possible that it can be unaware that it is malfunctioning in such a fundamental way? The machine only knows when to turn off the heater when a thermometer indicates the correct temperature had been reached. Even on a 95c wash, the heater is never coming on and temperature remains stone cold. I can also confirm that the power usage never indicates any significant load from a heater element switching on. How can it not be aware of the error?

Obvious guess is that your ceramic heater element(s) are shot & I couldn't find them online in a quick search, for your model. Take it apart without effecting operation & see if you can confirm by hand or multi-meter. But, it could be a number of things from a loose connection to a dead thermistor. I'd get an Appliance Repairer if you use the heating option regularly.


How many wires should be in a new thermostat cable? When roughing in thermostat wire, how many pair wire would you use to cover most   thermostats?

I'm asking because keep seeing questions about C wire and wifi.

If you're building a new building and having new HVAC installed, I would simply put 1/2" conduit in the wall and be done. That way, you let the installer run the wire they need. I don't know that I would do this without at least consulting an HVAC installer to see where they would put the unit and the air return (typically the thermostat is as near the return as possible).

If you're going to just pre-run wire and dictate where the return will be and the HVAC unit will sit, I would run 18/5 wire if you know you will have a AC + gas heat, and 18/8 if you know you will have a heat pump (if you're in doubt, more will not hurt). Your most basic setup on most modern units needs 4 control wires plus the fifth blue "C" wire that provides power to the thermostat. It won't cover anything elaborate like a heat pump, but your greatest risk would be the installer uses your wire to pull the wire they actually need.


Can I install a security system myself? I just bought a new home and it had been professionally pre-wired for a security system. There are cables for sensors on all entry doors. There are some cables for motion detectors as well on the main floor. There is also a cable for the control panel near the main entrance. All the cables go to the basement and are not connected to anything at the moment.

I checked one of the cables and it looks like there are four wires - red, black, yellow, and blue - inside.

Is this something I can make one of my DIY projects? If so, any recommendations on wired security systems compatible with this setup?

This is actually relatively easy - many hobby shops (eg Maplin in the UK) have kits which require very little technical know-how.

I guess the pre-requisites are:

Understanding your perimeter -

use break sensors on the highest risk areas (doors and easily accessible windows)
use motion sensors in key hallways
do you include your garage
do you include external sensors
do you want to trigger a camera or similar

Control requirements -

where will your control panel need to be?
should it have a panic alarm

Compatibility requirements -

break sensors may be passive, or may be powered. If powered, what voltage is required
usually easiest to go with one brand throughout


Is it okay not to use a hammer drill with tapcon screws? I got some tapcon screws to hang a floating shelf in brick. However, reading the directions, I see it says to use a hammer drill for the pilot hole.
I don't have one. Is it going to work fine with a regular drill?

A regular drill with a good masonry bit will be fine on soft brick.
If the brick is hard like engineering or blue bricks then you will need a hammer drill.


What to do with a leaking ceiling I live in New York with 45 degree temperatures, and after heavy rain last night I have leaking ceilings all over my house.  Water is just seeping through the ceiling, drops and stops.  The water dries up in less than 3 minutes, with no sign of water marks.  It's happening even 10 hours after the rain stopped.

What can I do to correct it?

Resist the temptation to see it as a ceiling problem that can be patched from inside. Doing so will only provide temporary relief, if at all. To fix the root of the problem, you probably need to inspect and fix the roof, i.e. from the outside.


How do I fix a bathroom light Fixture that is falling off the wall? The light fixture in my bath room is falling right off the wall . Can anyone tell me what I'll need to fix it and how to fix it?

You'll know more when you undo the screws or thumbscrews holding the fixture onto the gangbox.

If the gangbox itself is secure, then you have some mechanical problem with the fixture or its screws or the threads on the box.
If the gangbox is insecure and is being pulled out of the wall,

You can use Madison Straps (less than a dollar) to keep the box in the wall: the long part of the strap slips in next to the box and behind the wall (slide up the long end first, then slide the short down so both top and bottom are providing support), then the short straps bend over right into the box to keep the box from coming of the hole.
You can pull out the loose box and replace it with an old-work box, which has surface-flush flanges to keep the box from falling in, and little clamps that flip up when you tighten their screws, pulling the box tight to the wall.

If the gangbox is insecure because it's falling into the wall, perhaps you need to firm up the crumbling hole you're trying to secure something into: new drywall from stud to stud, or some other mechanical reinforcement of the wall itself.  If you're opening up the wall, use a new work gangbox that can be fastened to a stud instead of the relatively flimsy drywall/plaster.

Does it go without saying here that you should only do things you understand, and that the circuit's power should be off while you're doing this?


Privacy fence to gate issues how do I straighten my my gate attached to the neighbors privacy fence?? I can not open the fence due to the leaning into my yard, it was working great before winter hit

I would use a brace from the foundation to the top left corner of your fence with a jack - foundation won't move and use a thick plank to spread the load either end...


What is wrong with this panel wiring? I have a main breaker panel downstairs, and a subpanel upstairs. After I hired an electrician to rerun the service entry cables, nothing upstairs is right, and all the upstairs lights blew as soon as they were turned on.

Testing with a multimeter, I'm reading 240V from hot to neutral on all the outlets upstairs. I get the correct reading downstairs, 120V, so the problem seems to be the subpanel wiring.

I don't see any mistakes in the subpanel. Everything looks normal to me: no double-tapping; these are all single pole breakers; the neutrals and grounds are isolated from one another. What could be causing a single pole breaker to provide 240V? There must be something obvious I'm missing.

Here is the disconnect for the panel upstairs:

Here is the panel:

Multimeter readings: hot to neutral: 240V. hot to ground, 120V.

I've labeled your image, to help you understand what's going on.

Off to the left, the grounding electrode conductor enters the box and terminates at the grounding bar. The feeder coming in the top of the disconnect has three wires, two ungrounded (hot) conductors, and a grounded (neutral) conductor. The two ungrounded (hot) conductors terminate at the disconnect, as they should. The grounded (neutral) conductor terminates at the grounding bar, as it should if this is where the service is grounded.
The feeder leaving the bottom of the panel has two ungrounded (hot) conductors, which terminate at the disconnect as expected. The grounding conductor terminates at the grounding bar, as it should. And the grounded (neutral) conductor terminates at the neutral bar. Unfortunately, since this appears to be where the service is grounded, the grounded (neutral) conductor from the lower feeder should be connected to the grounding bar.
As it's wired now, the grounded (neutral) from the lower feeder is connected to an isolated neutral bar. Which means that the grounded (neutral) conductor feeding the panel is floating, or not electrically connected to ground. Without a reference to ground, the voltage potential between either of the ungrounded (hot) conductors and the neutral can be anywhere between 0 - 240 volts.
Solution
Service grounding location
If the disconnect panel is where the service is grounded, you should move the white wire from the lower feeder to the grounding bar. Or you could bond the neutral bar to the grounding bar, using an appropriately sized conductor.

Click for larger image
Not service grounding location
If this is not where the service is grounded, you should move the bare conductor from the upper feeder to the neutral bar.

Click for larger image

Based on what you've said in comments; and because it's a 3 wire feeder and not a 4, it appears that this is where the service is grounded.


What can I replace an 8-spline handle with? My bathroom, built in the 1930's, is missing one of the wall-mounted shower handles.  The stems are 8-spline and I can't find any 8-spline handles that aren't 1930's antiques.  I would rather not replace the stems, so is there anything except an 8-spline handle I can buy that would fit on them?
(I suppose I could get one of those handles that's held on by only a set screw, but that doesn't seem like a sturdy solution.)
Here is a photo of the stem.  That front plate holding the bell-shaped cover is round and has no obvious place to put a wrench.  You can see where someone tried to take it off, but I don't know if they were successful and I haven't tried myself in order to avoid further damage.

And here are the handles I have now.  I think the one on the right is original.  It has a porcelain button on the other side.  The one on the left is newer and has a six-sided opening and an adapter.  I would look for more like it but I don't know what either that opening or the adapter is called.

If the antique handles are not prohibitively expensive and you don't want to update, you may need to accept they are the correct part and use them.  We don't take shopping questions, so I haven't attempted an exhaustive search for you, but I would note that some sites have search tools based on stem shape or number of splines and you should attempt to check out at the least the major manufacturers in your area and the brand of your parts if you can identify it, possibly including a search of whether that company was absorbed into another.
Be thorough in your searching.  I recently had to identify a very cheap (sub $100) 10-15 year old shower set to find a replacement valve, and found that the manufacturer's website is designed with a front end to look like a tool to help you find replacement parts for existing product, but for products old enough to require replacement parts, they just redirect you to look at the surface fixtures (handles, escutcheon, spout, etc. of their high end ($500-$1200) products from years too recent to require replacement parts.  I found the correct, common, cheap replacement valve by identifying the valve assembly part number by manual visual comparison of replacement parts on google images.  Once I knew the relevant part numbers, finding the referenced valve was easy, but it was obvious the manufacturer would prefer replacement of the entire assembly, preferably with an expensive model.
That said, you could indeed use a dremel to grind a flat spot or wedge on the existing stem that would fit well with a suitably sized set screw handle.  It is even likely that if you did this carefully it would remain compatible with 8 spline handles.
Goal is to produce a keyed mechanical shape that holds the handle in place based on the position of the set screw rather than the force it is done up with.
Oh and if your issue with the antique parts is the way they look and you're looking at saving hundreds of dollars by not tearing open the wall and replacing the valve assembly, you could even contact some local machinists and see what they'd charge.  Prototyping is expensive, but not that expensive, especially if you can provide the design.  You haven't provided any example pictures, but if you have artistic skills and tools you could also try your hand at making one from a suitable mating piece and a variety of well documented hobby manufacture techniques.


Is there anything special needed to cut out a section of carpet? I am cutting out a section of carpet as I expand my entryway, and I want to ensure it's held down properly.

I am putting a 4' high wall up where the double red line is, and cutting out that section of carpet (later I will probably tile). Right now, there are tack strips all around except for between where I drew the two arrows. If I cut out that section, I guess I need to put new tack strips down and attach the carpet somehow. Am I going to need to use one of those carpet stretching tools to do this? Should I put tack strips down before I put the new wall in place or after? Any other suggestions about the best way to cut this and avoid problems?

Update:

Just stumbled across this again, figured I'd add some post-photos (even though I finished this a couple years ago now).

I used some painter's tape to both mark the cut I wanted, and try to ensure the fibers weren't damaged/dislodged, then just cut it with a sharp utility knife and a level as a straight-edge.

The wall I built was just a 2x4 frame, and before I put it in place, I put a tack strip in along the edge of the carpet there, and pulled it as best I could to get it to attach.

Because I just cut a corner of the carpet out, and it was still attached on all 4 sides, it didn't really move any or need to be "streched" (which is what I was concerned about).

For the door opening, I used a carpet threshold tack strip (forget the name -- it has a channel in it that you push a piece of PVC molding into to cover the seam up):

So after four years of living with a tiny entrance that only one person could be in at a time, we were totally happy with the final result... for the remaining two months we lived in that house. Such is life :)

I'd recommend putting the tack strips in after the wall. That way you can put shoe molding over the edge. The one time I ever replaced carpet I cut it with a multitool knife blade and I didn't need any specialized tools to get the new carpet down.


Installing a wireless remote switch for a ceiling fan in an existing single gang box I installed a ceiling fan that has a wireless remote switch to control the light and fan speeds.  It can be mounted in the wall in an existing single gang box.  However the power to the fan must now be permanently on.  To do this I am assuming that I just need to use a wire nut to  connect the two black wires that go into the existing switch.  I.e., remove the existing switch, connect the two wires going in to the switch, and then mount the remote switch  in the existing gang box.  Is that correct?

Yes, that will do it. Just remember to turn off the breaker and test wires to make sure they are not energized.


Toilet flange no longer over pipe My toilet was leaking a bit from the base so I figured maybe the wax ring needed replacing. I took the toilet off the flange and saw something that doesn't look quite right. The flange is case iron and one side is torn and coming up. But even worse the flange is not directly over the pipe. It looks like it was pushed a few inches toward the wall. Have a look at the pics:

Here is the front of the flange, clearly not flush against the floor:

Here is a top view. You can see the flange is not directly over the outflow pipe anymore:

Here it is from the back. You can see the tear in the flange:

I'm not sure how this happened. It looks like the flange was pushed toward the wall at some point. Or the pipe was moved out from under the flange. A few years ago we had our foundation leveled, which tends to move things around in your house. That's the only thing I can think of that might produce and affect like this.

How do you fix this? Do we have to replace the tile and move the flange back over the pipe?

There are a wide variety of repair options that might work without damaging/removing tile, including repair flanges that use a compressible rubber sleeve that slides down over the existing pipe.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to see exactly what's what from the pictures. Repair options vary much depending on what you find after removal of the existing flange, so I recommend that you work on that first (hopefully you have a spare toilet...) I assume the foundation is raised (since you spoke of having it leveled) and suggest you get under there to ensure you have not had a sewage leak under the house. Carefully inspect the underside of the subfloor while you are there, because you will need to secure your new flange to it somehow and if it is damaged then you need to plan for that repair as well.

This type of repair may seem simple, and really they are, but the details and tricks gained from experience are often invaluable. If you can't figure a clear path forward after inspection and a visit to a plumbing shop to look at and discuss options... you may want to hire it done.


Replace light switch connected to a power outlet with dimmer - two black wires to one black and red I have a light switch that is connected to a power outlet.
The light switch has 2 block wires, one coming from the wire and one coming from the power outlet.

I want to change this to a dimmer and I think i need to connect the top wire to the black dimmer wire and the bottom to the red dimmer wire, then connect the green to my existing earth.

Note: The switch controls wall lights
      Outlet is always on, switch does not control it.

I should mention, this is in the bathroom, so should I also replace the outlet with a GFCI ?

Yes, go ahead and replace the receptacle with a GFCI receptacle

Your idea of replacing this receptacle with a GFCI is a good call, considering that Code has required GFCIs in bathrooms for a good few decades now.  You'll want to remove the current pigtail since your dimmer has wire leads, by the way.  Also, leave the sticker on the GFCI's LOAD terminals since you have no use for them here.

Once that's done, the dimmer is easy

The dimmer's black lead gets bundled in with the always-hot coming into the receptacle (you may need to pigtail the receptacle's hot for this), the black wire going out to the cable to the light gets connected to the red wire on the dimmer, and the dimmer's green wire gets bundled in with the grounds in the box.


AC start up causes lights on separate circuits to blink I have a 16,000 BTU window unit 120 volts.  I ran a complete separate circuit to handle the load.  The unit is about 6 years old and this year my lights on separate circuits will dim for 1/2 second when the compressor kicks on.  What is the cause and is this a possible danger?

Tyson's comment could be it, if so, he should post it as an answer. I'll list off a collection of questions and reasons why it could matter.

What year was the house built?
Are you running the unit on the same wall outlet you have been for 6 years?
What else have you added to the home in the last 6 year, and how much of it is on currently?

Where I'm going with this is a few areas:

1.) If the house has aluminum wiring, # 2 is more likely

2.) Running an A/C of that size is taxing a typical 15 Amp circuit (assuming this is on a typical 15 Amp circuit), over years of "abuse" connections degrade especially with aluminum. The wall outlet/wiring/breaker can be getting hot and drawing more current. It wouldn't hurt to secure power and check connections

3.) If you've added other computers, TV's other A/C's, other appliances, etc, they all draw power, it can add to the load to the panel, thus impacting incandescent bulbs on the same panel

4.) did you add a Hot Tub? Any other NEW breakers to your panel? (still part of #3)

5.) Ensure the only thing running on the same breaker as the A/C is the A/C.

6.) Turn off things that are not needed and run a test. Helps to rule out most of 1-5.

7.) Don't use extension cords. Even though appliance cords will work, it will still cause more voltage drop over a longer run than the wall outlet *(thus, more heat)

8.) What kind of Bulbs are flickering? Are these different bulbs than last year? They might be more 'sensitive'

9.) Per Tyson's comment, have you had any severe windstorms in the last season? it could absolutely be on the pole side if so, or in the meter as noted

10.) As commented by Ed Beal regarding the starter cap, the unit itself can be wearing out. Again, if a starter cap is bad the unit typically wont start and you may see a flicker when it tries, if it is going bad but marginal, you can see flickering due to transients on the line while the compressor is starting. Also, along these lines, the compressor itself will wear out over time. (enamel breaks down, lubrication breaks down) even a dirty filter (for air or for coolant) can increase the load on the unit resulting in more power being drawn.


Regarding wall anchor specifications Wall anchors say that they are rated for x number of pounds.

My questions are:

Is that “per anchor”?  And, if so, how accurate is it?  And up to what point?

For example: if I had 100 wall anchors rated for 100 lbs in drywall, and I distributed them evenly over a large space on my wall, could I hang a car?  Doesn’t seem likely, but I don’t know.

Practically, I’m hanging shelves, and I may be  placing some heavy stuff on them.  I want to know how much weight I can with certainty say they can hold, given that I’m using less than the calculated weight limit for the anchors for drywall.

In short, is there a weight at which anchor specifications become unreliable?  And if so, approximately what is it?

Yes, per anchor unless otherwise specified (and sometimes it is, e.g. in pairs).

Accurate? This is advertising we're talking about, and assumes perfect conditions. I'd halve the number given.

Regarding your car example, obviously at some point the load will overcome either the structural integrity of the entire drywall sheet (as opposed to the local structure immediately around the anchor) or the holding power of the sheet's fasteners.

Hollow wall anchors should be used as a last resort and with a grain of salt. Use common sense, and never use them for things that move. Since shelves don't move, but the contents do, I'd not rely heavily on anchors except in rare cases where studs aren't available for one part of the shelf.


Replaced circulator on gas hot water boiler and still no heat upstairs only in the basement II have purged my system about 4 times and changed the circulator but the flow of hot water only seems to go to the basement and not the 1st or 2nd floor. The boiler fires up, I can feel and hear the circulator getting hot and the pipe from it but it doesn't go upstairs.

I drained the boiler several times but the heat still fails to go past the basement. Can the expansion tank have anything to do with it?

I checked all around the house there are no bleeeders installed anywhere on the baseboard heaters so I can't bleed air from them. What else can I do to get the air out if that is the issue?

For making the system work properly you need to follow a few steps.

Make sure that the system pressure is enough to reach the upperfloors.
1 Bar equals in almost 10 m water (Europe)
Make sure that there is no trapped air anywhere in the system.
Therefore you need to find the bleeders on the heaters.
They must be there.
If you are sure that there are none you could carefully loosen the upper pipe connections one by one until air starts to escape and wait until it starts leaking. Then tighten the connection again.
Once you are convinced that none of the heaters and /or pipes contain trapped air you should verify the water pressure in the system.
Verify that the expansion tank is in working order. Knock on it.
If it sounds hollow than the membrane should be good and the tank working.   For this step you need to be sure that there is water everywhere in the system. If the tank is faulty you will start to loose water when it becomes hot. Finally resulting in the same situation you have now.


What to do with cinder block holes made for electrical boxes? The previous owners (flippers) left a surprise behind the drywall in my basement, and it was not just the absence of insulation.  What is the best way to work with these holes?  I want to replace the electric boxes themselves with newer low-profile versions that will not need such creative arranging.

There should be a steel plate over that notched stud /joist to prevent the wire from being damaged when sheet rock is installed as it is less than 1-1/4" from the nailing surface. The single gang box can be moved forward on the stud to make it a flush mount. The 4x4 box is easier, a 1/2" single device mud ring can be put on the face of the 4x4 box that should bring it out to the Sheetrock surface. You may need to keep the 4x4 box depending on the numbers of wires in the box (box fill) other than the nail plate and the boxes at the wrong depth I don't see obvious problems. An electrical inspector should have caught the boxes being two far back prior to the "cover" inspection. You might want to verify the work was permitted and inspected and may have legal rights if the work was not disclosed.


Paver Patio with Backfill Settlement Around Block Foundation Main Question:
I've been told that a concrete skirt (8" sloped pad) below the frost line and attached to the foundation via rebar is a good solution for putting pavers next to a block wall foundation that has had uncompacted backfill. Is this really a good idea or are there better ones?
My concern is that the concrete skirt could crack the cinder block with settlement over time. Without that solution, am I taking a huge risk that my pavers up to 3' out will settle over time and need fixed?
Project Background:
I'm building an 18'x20' paver patio (19'x21' total to account for overflow) alongside my house. 18' will run parallel to the foundation, and the 20' will run out to the yard. The 3" high pavers will sit next to the cinder block foundation (No siding), and I'll have 1" of leveling sand underneath, followed by 6" of crushed 3/4" stone (Totalling 10" down from the finished height). Landscaping fabric will lay between the stone base and clay soil underneath. Note: The clay soil is full of shale, and the house is in Pennsylvania (So all seasons here).
Current Situation:
I've dug out the clay/shale dirt to set the stone base in, but noticed around the foundation block that the soil had air pockets in it from all the shale scatter amongst it at various angles. There was a smaller concrete pad in that same place that I dug up previously due to cracking and having an improper base.
Current Advice Given To Me:
A seasoned hardscaper told me most builders overdig the basement by about 2'-3', lay the foundation in, and then backfill the outside without compacting. No matter how old the house, that backfill will continue to settle. His suggestion was to make a concrete skirt down below the frost line that would support the stone base and pavers above if there were any settlement beneath the skirt.
His directions were to dig out 2-3' (Until you find the compacted soil past the backfill), 19' wide (The width of the base) and 44" down (Below the frost line and adding in the slab thickness). Afterwards, lay rebar down in a gridlike fashion (Drilling 4" into the cinder block to attach the rebar to the foundation). Next pour an 8" thick slab (Running the width and length of the hole) with a 1/4" slope finish that goes out to the compact soil. Let it cure, and then pour in 3/4" stone (Compacting every 2") until desire height for sand and pavers.
Picture Drawing For Reference

Picture Reference of Concrete Skirt Below Frost Line (Note: Not Exact Scale)

This can be a tough one to answer, I don’t like to pour next to block walls after seeing pours crack the walls.
always settling is kind of true as you add it compacts more but you want some voids in the gravel for water to flow.
For me I would rather have to flip some pavers than take a chance of the angled pad cracking your wall as it settles.
I used to think all block walls leaked but realized it was mostly old block walls that had dirt and not rock back fill. I would recommend plastic sheeting at an angle like you planned with the concrete to slope away for drainage and to contain your sand.
Then in 4-5 years add sand as it settles.
The pavers will also help to deflect water away from the wall but buy not having a solid mass of concrete there will be less lateral force on the wall and this may be your best option but you will probably need to add sand.


GFCI protection on a shower light I am adding a light/fan inside a shower. I would like to add GFCI protection. I have a standard circuit and thought I could simply take the line to a GFCI outlet, then take the load to the switch, switch to light. But when I do the GFCI won't work. I get no power to light or outlet. when I press the reset it immediately trips.
Switch is a standard switch where the hot load from GFCI is going to bottom on the switch and the top black is going to the light. White wires from light and load from GFI are twisted and capped. Ground wires from GFCI  and light are twisted.

The diagram above is nearly correct and when I wired it that way the light AND connected the ground to the ground on the switch (rather than capping it) it worked and when I tested the GFI the light went out.. thanks.


Can I wire up a 353W projector with a 25W track light? So I have a 25ft 16AWG power extension cord running up to my projector which draws 353W.

I want to add a two outlet plug to the female end of the extension cord near the projector and get one outlet for an ikea tracklight which has sockets for 5 GU10 bulbs(I plan to install 4 or 5W led bulb in each).

Is there any problem with my existing setup and will there be any problem with what I plan to do?

The tracklight is designed to be a ceiling mounted fixture not a plug-in lamp. May be this is another question: I can't access any wiring behind walls, so can I wire up this fixture using a 3 prong extension and connect it to a wall outlet?

Ok, with the updated question... no, you really shouldn't ever power a permanently mounted light fixture from an extension cord inside a dwelling. It's acceptable in a utility outbuilding or agricultural building, but not inside a dwelling - there's too much inherent risk of an occupant (might not be you) damaging the extension cord and starting a house fire, resulting in the loss of many lives.

Your best bet would be to run a short section of WireMold (or similar brand) surface-mount conduit from an outlet box to a box on the ceiling, and hardwire the tracklights from that ceiling box.


Electrical cable between buildings I have a building (still under construction) with 220V power to it.
I have a second building, already constructed also with 220V power to it.
Between them is a path and rocky ground.

The path needs lighting (let's say 100W total) and the second building could use up to 3kW. The distance is around 50 metres from metre to second building.

What kind of cable do I need and how is the best way to run it?

My local building merchant (this is in rural Indonesia) sells NYM cable (pvc cable with 2 * 2.5mm conductors), as well as two-strand aluminium cable (normally used by the local power company to attach to housing).

I was thinking of burying cable in the path in cement, however I believe that NYM cable is maybe not suitable and I need NYY instead. Is there any minimum depth for this? Do I need to encase the cable in conduit? (For the time being I will sling the cable overhead, as we are not ready to work on the path, I believe that PVC cable is not sunlight resistant but it should be ok for a month or so (or I could use some PVC conduit for temporary protection)?)

I have attached some pictures of existing PVC cable and the site and as you can see the cable has degraded (over maybe 7 or 8 years).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/50897904@N02/29853981736/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/50897904@N02/29775219292/

I could also use the aluminium cable overhead, but it seems ugly and I would rather bury it

So do I need NYY cable (or something else?), and is it ok to cover it in a layer of concrete?

It would appear that in Indonesia, most of your electrical systems are based on European standards, and both NYY and NYM refer to German VDE cable types.

You are correct that plain PVC insulation is usually inappropriate for prolonged UV exposure.
Both NYY and NYM cable variants are suitable for direct burial in the ground or in concrete (with the exception of shaken, vibrated or compressed concrete -
source).
NYY is available with a UV-stabilised black PVC outer jacket, making it suitable for direct exposure to sunlight. Check with your supplier.

Considerations for the use of ducting or armoured cable relate only to protection from mechanical stress, impact or interference that could pose a risk of electric shock and/or damage to the circuit.

According to FSC Global:

  NYY cables are an economical solution to power and control wiring where mechanical protection is not required. Used both indoor and outdoor these cables are suitable for direct burial or through ducts, local regulations permitting.

If P = V x I then 3,100W at 220V requires a little over 14A.

I have the UK's BS7671:2008+A1 (2011; 17th Edition IET Wiring Regulations) with current-carrying capacity tables to offer some insight into cable sizing. Ambient outdoor temperatures in Indonesia average 28°C so the tables' assumption of a 30° ambient can be accepted.

The tables are not directly applicable to your situation but for armoured cable rated to 70°C as is NYY, Table 4D4A gives a capacity of 29A for two-core 2.5mm buried direct in the ground or in ducting as 29A. Even allowing for various factors such as higher ground temperature, thermal insulation by the concrete, and volt drop over 50m, you're more than exceeding 14A. A 16A or even 20A circuit breaker at the beginning of the run would ensure you're not exceeding the cable's capacity to the outbuildings.

Since the cable you specify is two-core I'll assume it's NYY-O and thus has no protective earthing (grounding) conductor. For safety, you may want to run three-core NYY-J, one core of which is for earthing. At a minimum, I would expect this cable run to be protected by a Residual Current Device (RCD; also known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter or GFCI). This could be combined with the overcurrent protection offered by a fuse or circuit breaker in an RCBO, but it depends what is available from your local supplier.


What do I do with a sewer pipe (toilet rough-in) full of cement? I have a problem that is mind boggling. I bought a house and am now just getting ready to put a toilet in the basement, which has a cement slab. I just took the cover off the rough-in expecting the sewer smell, but to my surprise I got a drain full of poured cement, YES IN THE DRAIN.

What do I do with that? Why anyone would fill the drain with cement is boggling my mind!

Since the ultimate solution may be to open floor and cut out the affected drains, lets hope it was only a  poorly sealed cap..  Its worth a few experiments:

Screw in a wedge anchor in center (of cement in drain) and use several pry bars or jacks to lift slug out

Drill a few inches down with a 2" coring bit (rented with a SDS max rotary hammer at local orange big box).  Repeat across the face of drain, being careful not to drill through drain.  Try chisel and point bits to see how deep it extends.  Shop vac pieces as you go, in case you breakthrough (think positively).

Call emergency hotline on the extended home warranty policy (its in with the mortgage papers)


What kind of wire do I need for 3 LED strips? My knowledge of this is very basic, so I would really appreciate it if I can get some help. I am trying to connect 3 LED strips around a room in crown molding. The strips are 3528 LEDs, 12V DC, 1.5 Watts/foot, and are 16 feet each. I figured that to connect all 4 in a series I needed a power supply that is around 70-80 Watts, so I bought a 120 Watts, 10 Amp, 12V DC to AC adapter.  When I connected the series, the last 2 strips were very dim, I am guessing because of voltage drop. I have never connected in parallel before but I am guessing that is what I need to do.

My questions are, what kind of wire do I need to run if my room is around 48 feet in perimeter?
And will running it in parallel help with the dim at the end?
And finally do I need to get a different power supply if I change it?

Thanks a lot!

A rule of thumb for 3528's is 2 amps per 16ft (5m)  section.  They are rated to connect up two strips (not 3) nose-to-tail (4 amps through their internal bus-bars).  I recommend limiting it to 3 amps (1-1/2 strips) but even then you'll have noticeable fade.  To avoid it, you need feeder wire.  18AWG intercom cable is ample, as it is nominally good for 6-7 amps.  Anything heavier will be difficult to attach to the strip ends anyway.  I prefer 20.

Option 1: Ring (no feeder)

Wire the LED strips in a total loop.  Always, black (-) to black... and red (+) to red. The power supply feeds the loop in both directions.  Yes, there are redundant current paths.  That helps carry the load and evens out fading.

However you'll readily notice fading between the power supply location and the opposite side.

Option 2: Ring, with feeders

Lay it out as in a ring, but also add 18-20 AWG feeder wire.  (18 AWG intercom wire probably being the cheapest choice).  Splice it in wherever makes sense - at the ends of the strip runs, or in the corners if you are cutting.

So imagine your room is a clock face with the power supply at 12:00.  I'd run feeders to the LED strip junctions at 4:00 and 8:00.   Or if you are cutting for the corners, I'd feed there instead at 3:00 and 9:00 (wouldn't bother with 6:00).

Since each LED is no farther than 1/2 strip (8 feet) from a feeder, there'll be no visible fading and you'll get max light out of the LEDs.


Upgrading Doorbell Transformer for Ring Doorbell Pro I'm upgrading my Doorbell Transformer.  I already connected the house wire to the Transformer, but the doorbell wiring got me confused.
I have two white wires that I know will go together and Then I have one black wire.  Don't know which screw to connect it too on the diagram.  I see the two spots for the 16v which is the minimum and the two spots for the 24vac.
Which side does the white one go to and which side does the black go to?

For my Ring Pro, I hooked one wire (the red) to the leftmost screw and the white wire to the rightmost for 24v. It's worked fine for a few years now.


Need help tracking down why the tension pulley is red hot after putting on new riding mower belt I have a John Deere LX188 and had a bit of a grass fire which destroyed the secondary deck belt.

I put a new belt on, and as soon as I engage the deck it starts burning rubber and smoking. When I shut it off the pulley that you see in the pic is blazing hot. That's where it's happening but I can't figure out why.

I took the belt off and it's rotating freely.

Any help is appreciated on what to do next.

It's rotating free because there's no tension on it. It will probably seize up a bit under load. The bearings are probably shot maybe due to the grass fire burning the grease seals. try replacing that pulley.


Is it safe to install the outdoor unit of an inverter AC indoors? We are planning to buy an AC unit based on inverter technology for heating our living room. I am not an expert as far as HVAC or heating technologies are concerned, however based on my understanding the outside unit is used to take air from outdoors, compress it and then use the resulting heat to heat the indoors, obviously with some magic (not really, but I don't know the details) happening in between.
We have an underground (UG) floor directly beneath the living room. The UG has windows, and we use it as a garage as well. I was thinking whether it would be a good idea to install the outdoor unit of this split system in the UG/garage instead of outdoors.
Based on my limited expertise on the field, the benefits of doing this are:

It will be better protected than outside
The air in the UG floor/garage might be warmer than the the one outdoors, especially when it will be snowing, therefore more heat for the outdoor unit to transform inside, and less need for electricity to make up for the difference.

Open questions (downsides):

The air circulation in the UG/garage is not as good as outdoors (obviously), how does this impact the heating and air quality that will blow inside?
How will the air that will flow out of the outdoor unit impact the air in the UG/garage.

Is it safe and sane to install the outdoor unit of an inverter AC indoors? Are you aware of any such installation?
To avoid any ambiguities about what this technology is, here I provide links from the manufacturer's website:
https://www.daikin.com.au/articles/category-1/air-conditioner-heating-and-cooling-guide
https://www.daikinindia.com/inverter-technology-0

Think of it this way.  You're transferring heat from the garage air, or from the outdoor air, to the upstairs living space above the garage.
The garage may be warmer than the outdoors when you start the system, but there's far less available heat, and you'll quickly transfer all available upstairs.  Soon the garage will be colder than the outdoors;  you're basically making your garage into a walk in cooler.  Yes, once it's cooler than the outdoors, heat will seep into the garage through the walls and windows and floor, but too slowly.
The practically infinite air outside, although less dense with heat than the air in the garage, contains far more energy.  That's ultimately the source of the heat.


Replacing bathroom exhaust fan Old fixture:  combination fan and light
New fixture: fan only

New fixture wiring: 1 white, 1 black, 1 green
Existing wiring: 1 white, 1 black, 1 bare copper, 1 red

Wall switch: red & black twisted together, black

To hook up wiring do I: white to white, black & red to black, and green to bare copper?

Don't overcomplicate it. Sounds like you had a "fan and light" with wiring to be able to be switched separately, but actually wired so they were always switched together.

So, remove and insulate the red (what you call pink, but it's both commonly and clearly in your pictures: red) wire at both ends. Twisting on a small wirenut and taping that is a typical approach. You don't need it unless you want to have separately switched fan and light on a fixture that supports that, perhaps the next remodel.

Black to black, white to white, bare to green, call it a day.

Yes, you COULD leave the red and black together, but it's not actually right to do that if they are going to the same wire - fine when you had two separate wires at the fan, not fine without that.


How to Fix an Unlevel Floor on an Upstairs Floor in Preparation for Nail-Down Hardwood Flooring? I'm contemplating both worthwhile solutions from this less specific question. However, I'm concerned about my ability to nail down hardwood flooring after using a leveling compound, and am reluctant to expend the effort to rip out and replace the subfloor per the second answer.

In my specific case, I need to level the floor in an upstairs room where one of the floor joists is, I'm assuming, 3/4" higher than the rest of them. Along one side of the room, the subfloor is 3/4" higher. It drops to the height of the rest of the room over about the first twelve inches of each subfloor board.

I am contemplating purchasing 3/4" thick plywood boards and attach them to the existing subfloor except for the elevated area. Then, along the twelve inch strip, I would use leveling compound. I could then stagger the hardwood flooring to avoid nailing into the leveling compound.

Is this a reasonable approach?

One solution is to cut subfloor on either side of the offending joist, plane the joist down, sister 2x6 nailers alongside the perimeter of the exposed opening.  Then replace the subfloor with new 3/4 ply.


Why do the water pipes around my water meter vibrate when water is flowing? I have a problem where there is a vibration in the cold water pipes whenever water is flowing (i.e. a tap is running, just after the toilet has been flushed etc.). The vibration appears to be focused around the water meter, although it's not clear if it is the water meter causing the vibrations or the pipes. As a rough guess the vibration is around the 2-4Hz range, and is fairly constant whilst water is flowing, gradually getting quieter once the water has stopped flowing. It also doesn't start when there are either small or constant low flows. Can anyone tell me what might be causing the vibrations and if this is something that could be fixed myself (i.e. turn the water off and on again) or if this is something that I will need a plumber to look at?

Hearing a small amount of noise from a water meter vibrating is not uncommon, however if the noise is loud enough to be distracting, you may have a worn impeller in the meter. You can try holding the meter securely or applying some pressure to the meter to see it that reduces the noise, but also you will be able to feel if the vibration is coming from the meter itself.  If simply holding the meter or the lines attached reduce the noise to an acceptable level, then securing the pipes to a wall bracket or clamping them securely may be all you need to do.  If this test does not lower the noise and you can feel the vibration through the meter housing, then I'd suggest calling your water utility company.  They own the meter and would come out to replace it if necessary, usually at no cost to the consumer.


Odd metal clips on hot water baseboard I bought a house that has hot water baseboard heating (house dates to mid 60s). I'm taking the covers off to vacuum the fins.  I found a couple of metal clips on the floor.  I'd like to understand what they are for and where they go.  They're about an inch wide, "squarish" u-shaped.  Most baseboards don't have these, but I did manage to find one that does.  They're clipped on the underside of the fins near a metal bracket that holds the cover on.

I know there are expansion cradles, but these seem to be made of plastic and they easily slide on top of the lower part of the bracket that holds the cover on.  The clips I found are metal and they really don't fit inside the bracket (a VERY tight fit).

Any ideas?

I finished removing all the covers and found more clips--most of them were over the brackets that the cover snaps onto.  So, that's where I put the rest of them.

Thanks for everyone's input.


What is the best way for DIYer to buy HVAC equipment and supplies if EPA 608 certified but not contractor? I'm a do-it-yourselfer who has three air conditioners that need to be maintained on the road. I have no interest in contracting-out my services to others.  But I occasionally need minor AC repair items. As Murphy would have it air conditioning tends to break down when you need it most at which time it is nearly impossible to find timely service for my specific type of equipment. typical wait times for an appointment is one month which is not feasible when traveling.  And even if you do find someone you're not sure they will do things according to the perfectionist standard you would prefer.

Therefore I studied for and passed the EPA 608 Universal certification.  a certain major supplier with national coverage with the initials JS Supply in one state refused to sell me any supplies that might possibly be used to repair equipment. They said they would sell me any equipment just not supplies.  I called corporate but received no response as to whether this was a national policy or not.

I would be happy to pay someone to do the work if I could find someone available and knowledgeable to do it relatively soon wherever I am, but long-term the most logical thing would be to maintain the equipment myself given the unique circumstances. That is it seemed like the most logical thing until the Absurd and unexpected response of a major vendor to the offer of purchase of their product.

how do I inquire whether a distributor sells directly to consumer without raising a red flag setting off all their alarm bells?  I'm trying to do the right thing, and intend to be very conscientious about it.

This is just an extension of Ed Beal's comments. I would defiantly set up an account with a vendor who has national outlets (maybe two) which usually allows you to purchase from any outlet. Unfortunately if a state has certain regulations that only allow certain vendors to purchase regulated products, there is not much anyone can do about it.

You have an unusual situation, but if you needed anything immediately the only other option would be to overnight from you home supplier.


Generator Manual Transfer Switch When I moved into my house I noticed an electrical box with two switches on it that connected to thermal safety switch for my hot water heater and heater for the house (forced hot water). I have posted a picture below. My question is what exactly is this? Is this a type of manual transfer switch that I can attach a portable generator to? Thanks in advance for your responses.

Disclaimer: my answer is based of off the Ontario Electrical Safety Code (26th Edition/ 2015) Current Edition. I would advise calling a licensed electrical contractor in your area and have them see if this complies with your local rules and regulations.

It does appear to be a very crude and illegal generator transfer switch. I would look on the outside of your house or the shed (if applicable) for a empty area with a dead end box (if it was hardwired) or a generator inlet box (if it was a plugin style) this will be where the generator was previously.

I would also suggest that you take a good look at anything else that looks like it was added by the previous owner as this is not the proper method of isolation for a transfer switch and was likely done without a permit which means the it and other homeowners additions may not be safe. Call a electrical contractor and ask them to inspect this and see if it is safe.


Is this gas pipe installation OK? My new home is under construction and I noticed the gas has been distributed to three places through a very tight and rough hand-dug hole.

Yes, I have concern about potential gas leakage. Though we will have advanced detector...

Is such installation normal? If not, What kind of code is related to this?

===========================================

Update: 2016/03/06

More unbelievable work has been done to "protect" the gas pipes...

County inspector just say they will determine if it meets the minimum code requirements. Now just wait to see if it can pass the county inspection.

No, it is not okay.  Make sure this is fixed before it's covered up.  I'd have to search through the code books to find all the relevant code sections, but simply looking at this there appears to be a few problems.

I'm pretty sure you can't have connections like that in concealed location. So if this wall is going to be finished (covered with drywall), they have to be moved.

If the pipe is within a certain distance from the edge of the wood member it passes through, steel plates have to be used to protect the pipe.

I'm not sure if non-rigid pipe is allowed in concealed locations, but I'm sure if it is, it has to be protected in some way.

Call your local government, and have this inspected.


Can I eliminate 1 switch from a 3-4-4-4-3 way configuration? The 2 story foyer  light is controlled by 5 switches.  1 is a dimmer at bottom of stairs.   1 at top of stairs. And 1 switch at each of 3 doors entering lower foyer.
We want to hang a large mirror on one wall.  This would hang over top of a single gang switch.
The pictures below show the switch from the left and right side view.
I want to eliminate this switch and put a blank cover over it.

Is it a simple matter to do this?

Go ahead and yank it
Since this is not one of the required switches for the stairwell lighting, and a 4-way, it's pretty easy to remove.  Simply nut the two black wires together and the two white wires together after removing the switch, then put a blank single gang cover plate over the box, turn the breaker on, and hang your mirror.


Reattaching water meter I'm trying to reinstall the water meter pictured below. It it has plastic male threads on each side, and they connect to the copper piping using a flare fitting (I think that's the right terminology).

I can't get the connections not to leak, even if I really crank down with my pipe wrench.

Possibly relevant is that there are rubber gaskets that appear to go into each fitting, as pictured below. I used the gaskets and it still leaks, but perhaps the gaskets are just shot (they appear worn).

Any ideas on why I can't get the connections to work?

I would first ask why you removed the water meter. they are usually sealed with a type of non removable link that has to be cut to remove so the customer can not move the meter and steal water. Usually, if there is a leak at the meter you should contact the water company and they will fix the problem.. That said, if this water meter is the one supplied by the local water company, you could call them and ask if they could provide you with the correct type gaskets (leather). If they ask why the meter was removed find a credible answer that you think they will accept. I rarely saw rubber type washers used on a water meter.


Cutting Concrete Block Wall I have an outdoor BBQ Island that has a grill and refrigerator installed in it. The Island is made out of 5 3/4" concrete block with wood top and tile on top of that.  Right now I have a A/V Receiver sitting on top of the bar, but was thinking I could use the space in between the fridge cut-out and grill to cut a hole and install an acrylic box with shelves for the receive and any other AV equipment.

The space between the fridge and grill is 34" wide and 31 5/8" from ground to tile. The receiver I have is 17"x 10.5"x 5.5". I was thinking the cutout should be 20" wide x 16" tall. This would leave 7" on each side. is that enough support?

Fridge on left, Grill on right
[img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4744/39517334044_0a8196b85a_k.jpg[/img]

Grill removed to show the thickness of the concrete block.  Dont mind the rat mess
[img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/26355751828_5039ff1ad8_k.jpg[/img]

If I was to cut the hole, could I use a angle grinder with concrete diamond blade?

Yes but you will be miserable, the small blade will not cut through but one side, then you will need to break that out without damaging the countertop. Block is brittle and needs room to remove it. You do not want IT to find the room by raising up the countertop and cracking it. The dust will be tremendous, and getting the blade to cut through to the back side of the block will be a real treat, unless you cut it from the inside and that would doing it blind after the dust starts.

Bite the bullet, rent a gas powered cut saw with diamond blade that has a 6" cut depth. Get pointers from the rental company. Use dust masks, and fans. After the vertical cut is made, make a cut from the edge to separate the top from the bottom. Maybe even 2 cuts a few inches apart, so the top has room to drop down without raising and cracking the top tile. The corners will be the only thing left to detail with your right angle grinder.


Asbestos risk in my roof? What is this material? I'm a homeowner in London, and have recently started losing sleep over something.  Hoping somebody can shed some light!  Our next door neighbours are having their roof redone, and some manner of asbestos has been found (unclear what - roof tiles?).  This has made me aware for the first time that there could be some in our loft, where I've been storing all manner of things for years.  The front half of our roof is great and relatively new, but the back half is ancient and crumbling, though generally watertight.  I've ignored the steady rain of debris from it over the years, mumbling "must get something done about the roof."  Only now have I taken a close look with a bright-enough torch at just what is crumbling (see pictures).  It appears to be some kind of backing board on the old roof tiles (not back pointing, as I'd been assuming?).  Now losing sleep that this is AIB or some other asbestos-containing material that I and my family have been repeatedly exposed to dust/debris from.  Anybody have a clue what this is from the pics?
Have rung around a few asbestos surveyors, but not found availability yet.  Had assumed asbestos would come up on original house survey, but now wondering if loft was checked at all, as it may not have had a hatch at the time of purchase.  Any info appreciated - hopefully looking for reassurance that this material is harmless, whatever it is!

My first thought was chip board but when looking closer the fine layers do apear similar to a product that was used in the U.S. during the war when there was a wood shortage. I would not mess with it. If it felt brittle like cement flakes it is probably A product that contains asbestos. If it is not disturbed there is no real risk. If you are planning on remodeling or repairing the old roof area have it tested first so you and your family are safe.


How to remove mold from Styrofoam ceiling tiles? I've recently noticed, that there are some sort of (stains) on a ceiling in a bathroom. The ceiling is covered with Styrofoam tiles of square shape. I took a closer look and it seems to me that it could be mold that developed on these tiles due to high humidity.

Are there any ways to remove that mold without removing the Styrofoam tiles?

Styrofoam - native language (пенопласт)

[in the UK] I've just bought some 'Ronseal 3 in 1 mould killer' spray from B&Q -- also available on Amazon -- which has worked well on my polystyrene ceiling tiles in the bathroom. These were quite mouldy in places (due to problems with my roof).

The spray worked really well (and the spray mechanism was very effective - giving a good-coverage fine mist spray rather than dribbling out (onto me) or producing a 'squirt' covering only a small area).

I didn't try to remove all the mould-discolouration from the tiles as I will be painting over them (which is an option if you don't wish to remove the tiles from the ceiling as suggested by some. I'd love to get rid of my crappy ceiling tiles but I know I'd regret it given the resulting mess and cost to make it good).