How can I replicate an integrated double oven and cooktop unit with individual components? We have an old Tappan unit. It is a single unit, with an oven above (not microwave), gas cooktop in the middle, and an oven below.  This set up is no longer on the market.  We would like to replace it, albeit as separate units, with the same configuration...oven above, stove top, and oven below.  Is there a way to do this?  Do we Just need a creative installer?  Point is, we want all units in the same vertical space as the existing Tappan.

Top - Microwave
Just look for built in microwave and you should find plenty. The catch is that a built in microwave generally costs a lot more than a countertop microwave. The advantages are that (a) they are (in my opinion) generally built to be more durable (i.e., replacement parts available instead of "toss it when anything goes bad") and (b) they typically include a light & fan below as they are designed to be used over a cooktop.
You need to check the installation guide for the microwave oven to figure out how to mount it, as it will need to attach directly to the wall (into the studs - don't rely on little anchors or toggle bolts for this!) or to an upper cabinet.
Middle/Bottom - Separate
A separate gas cooktop for the middle and electric oven for the bottom.
The electric oven would really be a "wall oven" but installed in a lower cabinet instead of higher up in a cabinet/wall. However, you will then need cabinets built to hold them. While in the old days a cooktop (gas or electric) would have a false drawer front (like for a sink), with modern cooktops you can often use a regular drawer with a cutout for the gas pipe and/or electric cord (gas cooktops need power for electronic ignition). This has the advantage of easily (i.e., relatively cheaply) getting a gas cooktop together with an electric oven, which many people (myself included prefer) as gas provides better control for a cooktop than electric while electric ovens often work better in a number of ways than gas ovens.
Middle/Bottom - Together
A slide-in, standard width combination cooktop/oven.
This is the easiest solution, and often the cheapest, but does not provide as much flexibility. Similar to your old Tappan, except without the top oven. If you want to have gas cooktop with electric oven, your choices are relatively limited. Most manufacturers, at least on the low-to-mid price range, use the same heating method for cooktop & oven.
Power!
Your existing Tappan most likely had a single gas connection and a single electrical connection. If both ovens were gas, then the electric connection was most likely 120V, possibly just 15A or 20A as it only needed to power the clock, controls and electric ignitors but not provide any heat. If one or both ovens were electric then you probably have a 240V, 40A or 50A connection.
For a new setup, you will need:

Gas for the cooktop (and possibly oven, in which case it would be one connection)
120V, 15A or 20A (check the specs) for the top microwave

One of:

120V, 15A for the cooktop ignition, plus
240V, 40A or 50A (check the specs) for the electric oven

or

240V, 40A or 50A (check the specs) for a combination gas cooktop/electric oven

or

120V, 15A for ignition and controls for a combination gas cooktop/gas oven

That means, at an absolute minimum, you will need an additional circuit for the microwave oven. But you may also need a new and/or upgraded circuit for the bottom oven, depending on the type of appliances you choose and the existing wiring.
You will also need to paint and/or tile the space between the cooktop and the microwave oven as there won't be a metal backsplash in between like your Tappan has. You may find the wall behind looks great, or the builder may have left it as unfinished drywall because "who will ever know".
There are really a lot of options. If you stick with the same brand/style, you can actually get a very nice match between the 2 or 3 appliances, or you can use different brands and if they are all stainless steel or all white or all black then it will generally look pretty good.


Is partial double glazing worthwhile? My house has single glazed windows. I understand that bubblewrap can act like double glazing, however doing this will ruin my views.

Is there much advantage in only covering part of the Windows (say 50% -  the parts behind the curtains and close to the floor)?   Im interested both from a power saving and "crying Windows" POV.

Are there any other "low cost", fairly easy ways to improve my window insulation which do not require modifying window frames that I can do myself with only basic skills? Getting this professionally done would not seem to make sense from a cost POV.

You can DIY install low-e (low-emittance) storm windows that retain the views and  dramatically reduce window heat loss. There are operable storm windows that don't need to be removed seasonally.

https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/services/do-it-yourself-energy-savings-projects/savings-project-install-exterior-storm


Disable noisy timer on a magic chef gas range model 6458xst Does  anyone knows how to access the timer and disable it on  a Magic Chef gas range model 6458xst.  I would be more than interested to find out!
It is a flat stove and the timer is right in front of the burners. The top of stove will one not totally come off even though I've removed all visible screws.
Any help would be appreciated!

Fixed it myself by removing all the screws holding the front plate on taking out the wires and clipping the one going to the timer.


Can I run a 50 amp circuit underground? I need to run a 50 amp circuit (120/240V) from a shed to a travel trailer that is permanently in place.

The previous trailer had 30 amp 120V service running underground to a mounted/covered outlet under the trailer and then the standard trailer cable/plug into that.

The run is ~50 ft.  Running the 30 amp 120V service was fairly straightforward (big box hardware stores have the right wired for burying).  But when I start looking at 50 amp things get less straightforward (to me).

I'm assuming from a brief googling of big box stores have not resulted in any results for #6 non-conduit buriable wire.  So this leads me to believe that I need to run it in conduit, but then I get concerned about heat (this may be an incorrect understanding).

We only occupy the travel trailer 2 - 3 days a week for May/Jun/Jul/Aug/Sept.  Most of the days are spent outside and the AC & oven will rarely be used. (I understand that you should plan for the largest load not smallest).

Can I run 50 amp (120/240V) underground?  Do I need to ground the chassis of the trailer to a 8ft grounding rod?  Should I use #4 instead of #6 to reduce the heat concern?

Cable
The cable you're looking for is Type UF, or Underground Feeder cable.

It can be purchased at big orange, and big blue, by the foot. It's available in 6/2, 6/2 with ground, 6/3, and 6/3 with ground, and is rated for direct burial.
Attachment to Service
There is one temporary, and two permanent ways to supply power to a park trailer.
Temporary
Power-Supply Cord
You'll want to use a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, and 4 wire cord with NEMA 14-50 plug to connect the trailer to the service.  The trailer's electrical grounding will be through the service plug, so only the distribution panel will have to be grounded.

Permanent
Mast Weatherhead
You can use four continuously insulated, color-coded feeder conductors strung from a mast to a weatherhead as a permanent feeder.

Raceway
A metal raceway, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or liquidtight flexible nonmetallic conduit, from the disconnecting means to a junction box on the underside of the trailer can serve as a pathway to run permanently attached feeders.

NEC
For reference, park trailers are covered in article 552 of the National Electrical Code.


Why does US Code not allow a 15A single receptacle on a 20A circuit? Living in the UK, where we have a different system of mains wiring, my curiosity was piqued by Is it okay to install a 15A outlet on a 20A dedicated circuit for a dishwasher? and its answers. Although there is some debate in comments as to whether a "duplex receptacle" counts one or two receptacles/outlets, the gist seems to be (from NoSparksPlease's comment):

NEC 210.21(B)(1) requires a single receptacle on a 20A be rated for 20A, 210.21(B)(3) says two or more receptacles says to refer to table 210.21(B)(3), which allows 15 and 20's

Can someone explain why a 15A single receptacle is not allowed on a 20A circuit?
(I recognise that "why" questions are often not suitable on StackExchange sites because – without documented reasons from the decision maker(s) – it can be a matter of speculation and opinion, but I feel such a question about electrical safety regulations should have an objective answer).
Under "normal operating conditions", I cannot see any problem with an appliance that can draw up to 15A, plugged into a 15A single receptacle fed by a 20A circuit. You may not be using the full capacity of the circuit, but that seems no different than if a 20A receptacle was fitted and an appliance that draws a maximum of 15A was plugged-in.
Obviously, though, electrical regulations are as much (if not more) about ensuring safety when not under "normal operating conditions". Here I can see how a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit could be unsafe: if the appliance "goes wrong a bit" and ends up drawing 18A, you will probably be overloading the appliance's cable and definitely overloading the receptacle. But because the circuit and its breaker is 20A, it will not trip.
However, I cannot see how this danger would be ameliorated just by having a second 15A receptacle on that circuit. Assuming code doesn't require you to keep an appliance drawing 5A permanently connected to that second receptacle, simply having a second receptacle isn't going to make the 20A breaker trip any sooner, nor is it going to relieve the overloading of the receptacle that is connected to the faulty appliance drawing 18A.
What am I missing about why a 15A single receptacle cannot be the only connection to a 20A circuit?
(This answer quotes more of Code 210.21, and goes into more details about why multiple 15A receptacles on a 20A circuit are allowed and useful, but does not seem to address why a single receptacle is not allowed).

Let me give some framework around what ThreePhaseEel said.
I can understand wondering that, since UK appliances all have fuses in their plugs, and I bet the fuses are sized to protect the appliance.
The US doesn't have those. It depends on reasonably close matching between receptacle and fuse/breaker protection. Thus, the general rule is that receptacles must match breakers: 15A must be 15A, 30A must be 30A, and 50A must be 50A.
Now there are 2 exceptions.  To brush aside the other one, NEMA stubbornly refuses* to define a standard for a 40A receptacle, so 40A circuits must out of sheer necessity use 50A receps.
The other is allowing 15A receps on 20A circuits.  (the reverse is out of the question).   Note that it's already the case that 15A appliances with 15A plugs are allowed on 20A circuits; just take a look at the socket keying.

NEMA 6 is our standard for 240V appliances; the same rules apply.  See how 20A sockets are keyed to accept 15A plugs.  Even on a 1-socket dedicated 20A circuit, 15A appliances are allowed.
Really, we have two separate use-cases here.
General-use branch circuits.  As you know, the ubiquitous American recep is the NEMA 5-15.  Most of the time, those are made as duplex (two socket) receps, and are on circuits that have many sockets - typically 3 to 12 yokes (a yoke is the physical chassis that fits in a standard 1-gang box) so 6-24 sockets.  And most things plugged into them are low current - fans, cell phone chargers, TVs, etc.  In this "general use appliance" application, long experience is that 20A is "close enough" to 15A that such appliances are unlikely to find useful protection by being fused at 15A rather than 20A.  UL wouldn't approve an appliance that senstitive, anyway, or would require it to have internal fusing.  (note that US Christmas light strings have fuses in the plug - yes, our dainty little plugs).

Dedicated circuits.  Some appliances (think: built-in microwaves; air conditioners) are such heavy draw that they cannot share a circuit - i.e. they are running near circuit limits, or if continuous, near 80% of circuit limit  Yet it is reasonable not to hardwire them and have them cord-and-plug connected. (e.g. a window air conditioner that might be removed every winter, back when they were inefficient).  UL requires such circuits state in their instructions that they require a dedicated circuit.  That is where simplex (1-socket) receptacles are typically used.  When an appliance has such heavy draw, it makes more sense to require a close match between receptacle and breaker.  So effectively UL is dictating the circuit protection.
It's a bit of a tag-team operation: our Electrical Code requires you used approved equipment (110.2), approvers defer to UL, UL writes the appliance design rules, UL certifies the appliances as safe, UL certifies the instructions and labeling, and Code requires that you obey them (110.3b).

*The reason they won't is:  (rewind: in Europe, they standardized on 416V "wye"  or 240V leg-neutral - while it makes for a more dangerous residential power, it allows easy 3-phase distribution and is strong enough for industrial needs; this means you only need one power system)  Whereas Thomas Edison married the US to this lower-voltage split-phase thing.  To work around its limitations, we went to a wide variety of schemes: 208/120V "wye" 3-phase, 240V "wild-leg" delta, and 480V delta (277V leg-neutral), just to name a few. As a result we have a huge variety of socket families, and they must ALL reject each other. So finding a new pin arrangement is like trying to find a .COM domain name lol.


Are water boilers dangerous when showering? Where I'm from (Serbia) everybody says to turn off the water boiler (the container that heats up water and stores it for use in the bathroom and shower) when you take a shower or use the bathtub. They say that if the boiler becomes faulty, the current can go through it and hence the water and kill you.

Now I would understand if we used some home-made boilers that aren't insulated or such, but can this actually happen with a modern boiler?
In my country this belief is some kind of a cultural thing, everyone believes it and says that they know many people who died this way, so every time we take a shower we turn off the boilers...

I'm from Serbia, just like the OP, and we do have such a myth there. After my initial rant, aimed at explaining why some of the safety assumptions that many answers here may have are wrong, I'll show installation of a typical water heater and explain a couple of issues that I see with the installation.

(Feel free to skip this part)
First, some background, so that others can understand the issue:
Most water heaters are made by domestic or ex-Yugoslavian manufacturers. Furthermore, unlike the "western" countries, we do not have strict regulation of electricians and the "National Electrical Code", which so many Americans like to talk about, is not nearly as accessible here. The newest book on the topic that I could find was more than 20 years old. The result is that the regulations themselves are not easy to check for actual home-owners and there's a justified lack of trust in electricians, since a large number of them actually, and with no exaggeration at all, know less than someone who did a 10 minute Google search.

Next, there's the topic of electricians and superiors.
An electrical installation project for a building should be done and signed-off by a graduated electrical engineer that has a valid license as a "responsible designer of low and medium voltage electro-energetic installations".
The actual implementation should be supervised by an electrical engineer who has a valid license as a "responsible contractor of low and medium voltage electro-energetic installations".
I was unable to find if there's actual licensing for electricians that are doing the installation itself!

Next we have a degraded civil engineering ecosystem: during communism there were huge companies making entire neighborhoods at one time, with many engineers and a strong internal structure. This changed and now we have small "investors" who are constructing one or two buildings at a time, focusing mostly on being as cheap as possible, with a huge flow of employees. The licensed EEs I talked about previously will sometimes just glance at the project done by someone else, sign it and take the money for that. The "responsible" contractors will never appear on the site to see what is done and the electricians are sometimes just some guys that know what to do with wires.  Safety inspectors are there mostly to take their share of the bribes as well.

This was all assuming actual sort of legal building construction. In some cities, for many decades, it was pretty much impossible to get a construction license, resulting in entire settlements illegally built with no government oversight at all.
(End of background)

So the above resulted in low quality installations done quite often by uneducated people, or semi-responsibly done installations with heavily outdated safety standards. The majority of houses don't have ground fault interrupters and, disturbingly often, there's no ground in the bathroom at all!

Grounding systems are often TN-C, TN-C-S or TT, not uncommonly of the "rotten electrode" variety.

OK, so let's take a look at usual water boiler (as we call them here) installation:

Here's a "representative" photo of an actual installation from "Moja Radionica" website:

So there's a live and a neutral connection, if we're lucky a bi-metallic thermal switch (not pictured here), a regular thermostat, the heating element itself (sometimes several in parallel) and a neon indicator light. Today they also have a ground connection that's connected to the tank and outer chassis as well, but the pictured unit only has a ground connection to the heater. Usually the tank is also grounded through the pipes, which are often metallic, but the outer chassis in some designs doesn't have a good electrical connection to the tank and instead just sits on the glass wool, with the tank having wall attachment points.

The big hole on the picture is usually closed by a plastic hatch that attaches to the bottom part of the heater.

The heating element itself usually has resistance wire inside of a copper or nickel-plated copper tube that is connected to live and neutral via two connectors. The connectors are isolated from the tank itself with two ceramic insulators.

So in a properly functioning heater, there should not be any conductivity between the heating element connectors and the tank itself. One of the common issues is that the outer tube of the heating element cracks and water gets inside, often causing the resistance wire to break. This results in conductivity between the resistance wire and the tank itself, which could be potentially not very safe. Combine this with no ground fault interrupter or pipe-only or NO ground for the tank and then we have some cause for concern.

Another issue is the plastic hatch at the bottom, "neatness" of the wires and the rubber gasket between the heating element holder and the tank. Namely, these gaskets wear out and are sometimes not replaced after opening the tank, which results in leaks. The leaking water accumulates in the bottom of the heater and, depending on the neatness of the internal installation, may submerge some of the conductors inside of the water heater, which in my opinion can again raise some safety concerns. In a "Magnohrom" heater I've had, the wires were completely lying at the bottom of the heater and resting on the hatch.

Another side-note about installation: This type of water heater should definitely not be installed somewhere out of the way, due to the safety valve. It's not shown in this picture, but on the cold water side, these heaters have a safety valve that is supposed to leak in the case of over pressure. Since many of the units do not have a thermal safety cut-off, in case the thermostat fails, this can cause flooding that might be undetected for some time. Furthermore, old valves do get stuck, so activating it by hand from time to time is recommended! If the heater is out of way, somewhere, this might be messy, this way discouraging the testing.


How can I run a coaxial cable into an existing single gang electrical outlet? The cable outlet in my girlfriend's living room is in a strange place.  She wants to move her TV to a different wall but the landlord doesn't want any new holes in the wall or floor.  If the wall was just painted drywall I'd just put a hole in the wall and patch it later when she moves out but the wall is covered with a strange fabric wall paper and I don't think I could patch it.

Essentially, anything I do I need to be able to undo.  I'm thinking of running the coaxial cable from the basement into an existing electrical outlet.  What is the best way to do this?  I couldn't find any coaxial/electrical duplex combos that can fit into a single gang box.  Essentially what I'm looking for is a single gang outlet that has coaxial on the top and power on the bottom.  I guess I could try and modify a single outlet and a coaxial outlet with a divider between them into the existing box.  Any suggestions?

Have you thought about trying to achieve the same result without running wires?  Assuming you're using a cable (or satellite) box of some kind (and your TV doesn't have a built-in cable card), you could use something like this:

That would give you a standard RCA connection from your satellite/cable box to your TV.  There are other options for other connection types; e.g. this one for HDMI (although it gets spendy).

Failing that, how about just using a quarter-round cable cover around the edge of the room?


The top grout line in the shower wall tile is about 2 inches. How can it be fixed? I just had my old bathtub/shower insert replaced with a tub insert and the walls tiled to the ceiling.  When it was "finished" the grout line from the ceiling to the top of the tile is about 2 inches.  I know this will not last, so my question is, now that I have paid for all of this, how can I go back behind them and make it right?

Don't pay them until they come back and do it right, but since you're asking I'm guessing you've paid already.

To fix, you'd need to get a wet saw or tile cutter and some of the tiles used in the project. Scrape out the grout, cut tile to 2" minus width of your grout lines minus 1/8" to 1/4". Put the tile up with mortar, grout, and caulk along the top where it meets the ceiling.


Before replacing a thermostat, is it enough to unplug the furnace? We have a thermostat that we need to replace. Our system is I think pretty typical, the thermostat I think controls the furnace and fan, and I suppose the furnace relays controls for the air conditioner. The wiring of the thermostat just has one R wire (Rh) which has a jumper connecting it to Rc. (I'm no expert, but I think this is the situation.) Thermostats are battery powered, I don't see any black wires or C wires.

The instruction manual says to turn off the breaker for the furnace before replacing the thermostat. But it's more convenient for me to simply unplug the furnace. (Or, as the plug goes into a remote-operated switch, I can easily turn the furnace/fan system off or on with a remote.)

My question is, can I just do that, unplug/switch off the power to the furnace, or is there some other wiring powering the thermostat wires that I would need to go to the fuse box and turn it off from there?

Edit: I unplugged the furnace and installed the new thermostat and it worked out fine.

So long as whatever you do de-energizes the wiring you're working on, you should be okay.

There's really just two concerns:

Shock hazard

You obviously don't want to get shocked/electrocuted, and only working on wires that are not energized is a good way to ensure this. This is less of a concern on the thermostat end, where you're only dealing with 24VAC, but there is 120V on the furnace control board.

Shorting out equipment

The other concern is when dealing with the wiring you can easily cause connections between stripped ends, which could do anything from simply turning the fan/furnace/AC on, to rapidly cycling equipment (which could damage it), to actually shorting something out -- such as the transformer itself -- and causing it to release the magic smoke, which renders it useless.


Black spots in the kitchen sink I just moved into a new flat and there seems to be some black spots in the kitchen sink(image attached).Is this black mold?How can I get rid of them safely?

PS: There is some black mold lining on the wall in the outer edge of the sink.And I am allergic to bleach

Update : I tried scrubbing it today with dish soap and it washed away very easily. I am now more worried if that could be mold or just dirt/buildup :(

Since you are allergic to bleach get some hydrogen peroxide. It will kill mold and mildew. I purchase my Hydrogen peroxide at a local chemical supply house and dilute to 3% with water. Remember when using concentrated hydrogen peroxide always add it to the water to dilute. Then spray or wipe down and let it sit for a few minutes and rinse. It may brighten the sink enamel if stained so be prepared to do the entire sink. I learned this sanitizing trick when working for a hospital, no bleach smell and it kills the nastys.


How should I install the post for a mailbox? The other day somebody wiped out my mailbox. It's a typical plastic mailbox, that mounts onto a 4x4 post.

The old post snapped off right at ground level. Instead of trying to dig it out, I've dug a new hole nearby. After talking with a neighbor, it turns out this type of thing happens a lot (lots of crazy/drunk drivers in the area, I guess).  My original plan was to simply stick the post in the ground, and back fill with dirt.

Post in dirt

I also considered using concrete.

Post in concrete

According to the Federal Highway Administration

  Do not embed the post in
  concrete unless the mailbox support design is shown to be NCHRP 350 compliant when so installed.

So putting the post in concrete is out.

After the neighbors comment, I'm trying to think of ways to make the inevitable next repair easier.  My first though was to fill the hole entirely with concrete, embed threaded rod in the top, and then use a bracket to attach the 4x4 post to the concrete.

Post on concrete

I'd likely use a bracket similar to this one from Lowes.

I'm worried that if another car comes along, the impact could actually bend or break the threaded rod, making it difficult to install a new post.  So instead of saving myself time, I'd find myself digging another hole anyway.

Is it worth the extra time and money to install the mailbox using the post bracket, or should I just stick the post in the ground? Are there other common solutions that I haven't thought of?

After reading the USPS mailbox guidelines, I'm now thinking maybe I should build this a bit lighter duty. I'm now considering installing a post in the hole flush with the ground, then using a bracket to attach the above ground portion of the post.

Post in dirt with breakaway

I'd likely use a bracket similar to this one from Lowes

This way if somebody hits the mailbox again, hopefully the in ground portion will be undamaged.

Years ago, growing up on a rural farm in the midwest, my father solved the drunk driver mail box problem. He did this after drivers and snowplows took out the mail box several times.

He placed the mail box on a long arm that was cantilevered over a swivel post 10 to 12 feet off the side of the roadway. The design of the swivel post was such that the mail box arm would self return to the normal position if the snow plow would go by and gently push the box out of the way. On the other hand if a driver came by and made a direct hit on the box it would swing 90 degrees and latch into that position till one came to release the catch and let it return to normal position.

The "return to normal" mechanism worked by having springs pull down hard on the swivel part which was mounted against a V-groove seat on the post.


How can I add a button for a garage door opener? I have the following scheme for my garage door opener:

and I want to add a push button to this.

Is it enough to connect a push button just as any other button: GND to scheme's GND and PB to the other pin of the button?

(source: zwave.com.au)

Yes, You can simply connect an additional button between the PB and GND connections. Just make sure that all of the buttons used are momentary types that spring back to an open condition when not in use.


How do I insulate my Laddomat 21 boiler charger? I have a mixing device Laddomat 21 installed for my boiler + accumulator tank. I have all pipes around the boiler insulated with pre-formed moulded mineral wool insulation, but there is no insulation on the Laddomat unit. As the unit is quite hot (70-90 deg.C) and its metalic area quite large, I assume the thermal loss on it can be substantial. For newer/large models the manufacturer is selling a ready to use insulation from EPP (see image), but there is none available for this type.

How could I make a DIY insulation for it? If possible, the insulation should be possible to take apart if some service is needed on the Laddomat.

They talk about using EPP-Insulation which is expanded polypropelyne foam:

  EPP is flexible foam that is used as a packing material for delicate electronic parts.  It is also used in the bumpers of some automobiles.  It is a rubbery material that is light in weight, yet very durable.

http://www.flyingfoam.com/FoamTypes.html

Based on that, I think you could do quite well with simply buying some basic pipe insulation

and do some creative wrapping of the insulation around the fitting, adhering it with duct tape (not directly to the device but insulation to insulation only).


HVAC System on 100 Amp Panel I just moved into a house which has large in-wall AC units and heaters. I've been looking into replacing that setup with an HVAC system, but I only have a 100 amp panel. Given that there is already a washer and dryer, a dish washer, and other standard appliances, is this going to be an issue?

As always, the answer is 'it depends' and 'do a proper load calc'.

It will depend on how large a unit you're installing, but I wouldn't expect to have issues, especially as you'd be removing existing aircon and (presumably electric) heating. The new unit would likely be significantly more efficient.


What should be done about this concrete retaining wall? At the back of my property there's a concrete retaining wall that separates my back yard from my neighbor's. The wall has several enormous cracks and is leaning, especially toward one side. I'd guess the wall has been here since the house was built in the mid 1950s

To my novice eye, the leaning/cracking seems due to a larger tree in the corner of my neighbor's lot. Since we moved in to the house about 7 months ago the wall has been stable and went through winter and Oregon rains just fine. No idea how long it's been like this. There is evidence that a fence used to be against this wall but it has been removed.

What's the right course of action? Replacing the wall entirely seems like it'd be very expensive. Is there a sensible alternative? Is there a danger of the wall failing and taking some of my neighbor's yard and the tree down with it?

Pictures of the wall are here:
https://imgur.com/a/gMAdd

You have several issues: 1) Diagonal cracks, 2) Deadman movement, 3) Tree root stress, 4) Fence movement, 5) Water buildup behind wall.

1) Diagonal cracks are an indication of wall stress load failure. That is to say, the wall is failing because of an excessive load on the wall and a lack of reinforcement in the concrete wall to resist the load. (Vertical cracks are an indication of temperature or expansion failure...which is much easier to fix.)

2) Most alarming is the fact that the steel plates with the steel rod and bolt is called a deadman and it’s failing too. Evidently a deadman was installed in at least two locations (that I can see) to help hold the top of the wall from tipping over. If you look close, you can see a gap (space) between the steel plate and the concrete wall. This is an indication that the deadman has failed. Perhaps the rod has come loose from the deadman. The deadman is doing nothing.

3) Yes, probably most of the “load” on the wall is from the tree.  Of course as the tree grows it spreads out and “pushes” on the wall. However, as the tree sways from the wind, the tree roots “push” on the wall too. The tree needs to go...

4) Any movement from the fence will add stress to the wall too...similar to the tree in Item 3) , above.

5) water is heavy and puts tremendous stress on a wall if it’s not collected and drained away...especially in a climate like where you live. When you have many inches of rain in a short period time the subterranean water doesn’t have a chance to dissipate. When it builds up against the wall, that’s a lot of stress.

I don’t know of a way to save the wall. It will continue moving until it falls. You could slow the failure by removing and killing the tree. However, be careful when the tree falls, it could put a huge thrust on the wall.

BTW, I wish I had a Bronco to go 4-wheeling...


Can I wire 3-way switches so that when they are both in the same orientation the light will be off? I replaced my 3-way switches.  Is it possible to have either switch shut the light off, by pulling down on the toggles Either switch does shut the light off, but then one toggle is up, and the other is down.  I want both to be down after shutting the light off. If there is a way, can you give a diagram of how to wire it?

There are four possible combinations of two 3-way switches:

Both up
Both down
First up, second down
First down, second up

Two of these will have the light or fixture on, two will have it off.   I prefer #1 and #2 to be "off", with #3 and #4 on.

If your light is off for #3 and #4, and you'd prefer it the other way, you can exchange the traveller wires at (only) one of the two switches.   The travellers are generally connected to two silver screws, with the common wire on a darker screw.


GFCI breaker tripping I have a 20A GFCI breaker that intermittently trips. In tried to isolate by disconnecting different devices to no avail. I finally disconnected the load wire from the breaker and it still tripped. I replaced the breaker and it still will intermittently trip with only the neutrals hooked up. Any ideas?

In any installation of GFCI protected loads, they must be designed so that currents are balanced.  That is because GFCI detection compares currents in the two wires, and aims to see them equal.  As such, unhooking only the LOAD "hot" wire, and not the accompanying LOAD "neutral", is a wrongheaded thing to do generally.   However, it is an excellent and interesting diagnostic test, that tells you where your problem lies.

What you have, by plain demonstration, is current flow on neutral that is not matched by equivalent current flow on hot.  That shouldn't be possible.  If the monogamous partner "hot" wire is disconnected, where can current possibly be coming from?

The most likely explanation is a promiscuous neutral.  That is, this neutral is returning current for other circuits served out of other circuit breakers.  This is occurring because at some point, some installer of something decided to grab the most convenient neutral, instead of grabbing the correct partner neutral.  This often accompanies shady handyman work and overloading too-few-wire cables -- this person's situation being a classic case of both of those.

Now there's one more possibility, but it's fairly remote. That is a neutral-ground fault somewhere in the wiring.  This would most likely be coupled with hot-ground leakage somewhere else whose grounds are connected to this ground.   Current takes all available paths in proportion to their conductance, and while most of the current would return directly through that circuit's grounding system, some might hop your neutral-ground fault and return on this circuit's neutral, where it would be most unexpected by the GFCI.  Like I say, it's a longshot.  But this too is coming out of another circuit.

Either way  -- How do you find that other circuit?  Shut off all your breakers and see if the GFCI breaker will stay on.   Then turn on one breaker at a time.  It really helps to turn on all the loads on that breaker.  When you turn on a breaker and the GFCI trips, you have found what circuit the promiscuous neutral or other-ground-fault is at.  Then you follow both circuits until you find the interaction or problem.

Once you find the breaker, you might turn it off, reset and continue turning other breakers on - just to preclude it being three circuits interacting.

The last thing to mention is a multi-wire branch circuit.  That is a circuit designed for two subcircuit "hots" to share a neutral.  Typically it uses /3 cable, red black white, with white being the shared neutral and red and black being hots. They must be on opposite poles or they will overload the neutral; and they need common maintenance shutoff; for those reasons we recommend using a 2-pole breaker or a listed handle tie.   If you wish to GFCI protect a milti-wire branch circuit, the only option is a 2-pole GFCI breaker.

What about a defective GFCI?  I doubt it.  Honestly that idea is the "first place people go" because they can't believe/accept they have a ground fault, but it's rarely true.  So I tend to discount it.   You can try unhooking both LOAD hot and neutral (do not unhook the curly pig's tail LINE neutral) -- if it trips with nothing on LOAD then, yeah, it's the GFCI.


Can I use Kerdi Board instead of Cement Board to thinset natural stone tile? I've got these split face natural stones that come in 24 x 6 panels, and I was going to install them onto Cement Board using thinset.  Checking the boards out (Permabase Plus), they contain silicates which can apparently irritate my asthmatic kid (and cause cancer it seems!).

Despite being more expensive, would Kerdi board work as a backer?  I'd rather break my wallet than my kid's lifespan.

Thanks for your help.

All cement products contain silicates, from the sand use in the cement. It won't be breathable unless you create dust by cutting or breaking the panels.

That being said, I don't see instructions for using Kerdi Board for flooring in the Schluter product data. It could be there and I just missed it, but I'm not seeing it. Schluter is actually pretty good about replying to emails, so you could ask them to be sure.

Another option to look into would be Schluter Ditra, another product from Schluter that is intended for use with flooring.


Wiring 100 Amp subpanel I know this subject seems to be debated to no end but I have a few questions/comments.

My main service panel is in my attached garage and I want to add a 100 amp subpanel about a foot or 2 to the side of it to power a mini split, air compressor, welder, and few other future tools for my garage workshop (mill/lathe/CNC router, etc)

I have a Square D QO load center as my main breaker with lug attachments rated at 75C and it looks like Square D rates their breakers for 60/75C service. Looking at 310.15(B)(16), I can get away with 3 AWG CU or 1 AWG AL wire rated for 75C but I just need to make sure the subpanel terminal lugs are rated for 75C as well. Correct?

I'd rather work with copper conductors since they will be smaller and easier to manipulate but I'm not finding a whole lot of 3/3 cable available. I also figure that using SE cable would be easier instead of messing with conduit unless I come in right below the original service panel and run the wire straight down into the subpanel with a short, straight piece of conduit. Don't know if there's any code against doing that or not (height issues). But if I did it that way, I could use individual 3 AWG CU wires which might be easier to source.

Any thoughts/comments?

You have the right size wire, although the aluminum is no harder to work with than the copper

You are calling out the correct gauge wire for a 100A feeder, which is good, and you are also correct that distribution lugs are rated for 75°C wire, allowing you to use that column on the ampacity chart (110.14(C) point (a)(1) even permits it for <100A, never mind point (b) permitting it for 100A and up in any case).  However, your assertion that copper will be smaller diameter/dramatically easier to work with isn't quite right.  Fat aluminum wires are compact stranded by default, as opposed to the typical concentric stranding of a stranded copper wire, which means they do not take up much more space than a copper wire of equivalent ampacity.

There is also no minimum height for a panel

While you cannot have a breaker handle over 2m (6'7") from the floor (to make sure that folks can reach it!), there is no minimum height requirement, and large commercial panels sometimes are 6' tall or more, with breakers starting at 12-18" above the floor.  This means that your plan to put the subpanel below the main panel is fine; do remember to pull the bonding screw out of the subpanel if it's shipped with one fitted, and torque all distribution lugs to their specified torque with a torque wrench or screwdriver that reads in inch-pounds.  (This last requirement is a new one in the 2017 NEC, specified in 110.14(D)).


Window sill slant bricks I was wondering if any manufacturer makes bricks whose top is not flat but slightly slant to be used for window sill for water drainage. I have seen slant window sills made with regular bricks that seem set in mortar at an offset but I'd prefer if they came with a slant.  Is there a name for slant bricks like that?

There may be a brick that has that shape already, but I have not seen any. If there were, they would be custom ordered. To match your brick you have in place would even be a taller order. Bricks made in one time of year under the same name will differ in color and texture to a degree from brick of the same name from the same company, just made at a different time.

If color difference it not that big of a deal, you may want to go in a different direction.

Cast stone sills come in a variety of colors, but typically mimic the color of Vermont or Indiana limestone. They can be tailor made to suit the space it occupies.

It looks like Glen Gery has a line of cast stone, perhaps ready to go. You may be able to order  stock long lengths and cut to fit. They are usually made to order that I am aware of.


Where should I connect a C wire on my Goodman PGB030075-1 furnace? Is this where I can piggyback for c wire on Vine thermostat?

Thanks

Right part, wrong wire

While the terminal you have circled does attach to the transformer, it attaches to the primary side of the transformer (i.e. the AC mains side).  You need the secondary side common, which on your system is the blue wire coming off the transformer (if there are multiple blue wires leading to that terminal, you can tap any of them).


How do I reinforce a drawer bottom? I recently bought a self-assembly wardrobe.  After assembling it, the drawer bottoms were not held in place by enough wood (I think the groove for the drawer base was too close to the bottom of the drawer).
I have two questions:

Does anyone have any tips for reinforcing these? They have already broken three times, and I've tried additional screws, wood glue and even new pieces of wood to fix them.

Is there any way of simply buying the instructions separately so that I can build it with higher quality wood?

One website for furniture plans that my wife recently found is ana-white.com. Best thing is, they're free! Each article/blog post has a materials list and instructions.

There are quite a few plans for near-duplicates of brand-name furniture makers' products.

Here's instructions for a dresser from the website. (I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a wardrobe, since you mentioned it had drawers. When I hear wardrobe I normally think Chronicles of Narnia style.)


What is causing my AC to trip the breaker after running for about an hour? After I turn on my ac, about an hour or two later it will make  a noise and trip the breaker. Could this be a short in my fan motor? The fan does run.

If the a/c runs for the better part of an hour, it is almost certainly not a short circuit.

More likely, the air conditioner is slightly overloading the circuit.  Or possibly the circuit breaker has "derated itself."  Fix the latter by replacing the circuit breaker.

Always choose a replacement circuit breaker based on the wire capacity, not the devices connected.  For example, replacing an appropriately sized 20 amp breaker with a 30 amp could easily start a fire from inside the walls.

Addendum:  see the time-to-trip for a line of GE circuit breakers here.  Note that it is normal for slightly overloaded breakers to take hours to trip.


Can't get furnace to run in FAN ONLY mode I can't figure out why my furnace is not working in FAN ONLY mode. It works fine when calling for heat, but when Fan is set to ON and there is no call for heat (or heat is turned off) the fan does not respond.
The T-stat is a Honeywell Vision Pro 8000. It is set to Heat+Fan mode and wired according to the manual with R, W, and G wires (see photos). The furnace is a Goodman gas furnace. I can't find the exact model number but the attached photo shows a sticker inside the coverplate that lists a few model numbers (it must be one of those). It was installed in 2008 so I assume it's capable of running the fan only. Also attached is a photo of the T-stat wires connected to the R W and G contacts of the furnace control board. I have also verified there is continuity of the G wire at each end.
Any help is much appreciated!

I notice that you have two red wires used for R and W.
Perhaps they have been swapped, so the wire labeled "R" at the thermostat is actually connected to "W" on the furnace control board, and vice versa. That would mean that when the thermostat tries to activate the fan, it is just connecting the wires for heat and fan, without connecting the power from R to anything, and so nothing happens.
If so, then you just need to swap back the two red wires and the fan control should work properly.


Need helping finding a limit switch for motorized raise/lower led light bar I have a rotary bar that raises and lowers lights about 45 degrees in each direction. Right now I have a timed relay that stops the bar, unfortunately, the time can easily be thrown out of sync. I have tried numerous "industrial" limit switches with the arms and they just do not have enough precision. I am hoping someone can help.
Here is a video clip of the bar in motion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFoRufvPPC8
The bar uses a vehicle window motor and a simple DC circuit. I did not want to get involved with steppers. If someone has some limit switch experience, please share. The hardest problem I am finding is being a rotary bar, at no point is there a way to "push" on a limit switch.

A simple and reliable means to your objective might be magnetic reed switches. A magnet placed on any portion of the moving structure can be used to open and close as the lights rotate.
The circuit for one direction of travel would have the reed switch set to open as the magnet reaches the end of that direction, while the polarity switching circuit receives the other reed switch.
If you can post your circuit diagram, I can be more precise regarding placement of the reed switches, but it's relatively straightforward. When your movement switch is in the "up" position while the lights are down, the reed switch is closed, allowing current to flow. As the light reaches the desired location, the reed switch opens.
When the movement switch is in the "down" position while the lights are up, the same thing applies, as the second reed switch will have closed once the magnet moves away.
I searched for "high current reed switches" and found too many returns to post, especially as the prices range from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars.
Ensure to use a normally-closed switch, as explained on this useful web page.


Cut wire too short when installing light fixture - now what? I was trying to install a hanging lamp in the dining room.  The wiring was way too long (the wiring was already quite a bit longer than the chain but I had to completely remove the because the ceiling isn't that high) so I measured and cut the wire, but when I then tried to assemble the lamp at the ceiling I realized I hadn't accounted for the face that the wire has to go through a narrow support tube before it comes out behind the ceiling cover.  As a result, when the wire comes through the tube it just barely sticks out, not even enough for the exposed wires to clear.   If there was maybe 1/2" more wire I think I would have room for the wire connectors to be connected. I'm not sure how I can splice the wires together because the tube isn't much wider than the wires and I don't think a splice would fit into the tube.  Plus, the exposed wired being right at the mouth of the tube would seem to make things trickier.

How can I recover from this mistake and finish installing the lamp?

Update: Here is a picture of the fixture:

I managed to get a bit more slack and put a wire connector on the ground for reference.  The hot and neutral wires could use a bit more exposed wire, but I think it will be usable as is.  If there was some way I could shorten the single chain link that could fix the problem, as presently I can wire it up to the ceiling if the link isn't taut (but then the fixture is being supported by the wire, not the link.

Second update: I replaced the link with something shorter and now I have enough slack that I can get the wires to touch, but when I put the connector on and tighten it up, it doesn't bite enough against the lamp wire to hold it.  Could I possibly splice it directly in the connector?

Final update: After the last update I was able to get both connectors to tighten up properly, one by itself and the other by twisting a bit of extra wire around both wires first.  The lamp comes on and doesn't have any flickering or other malfunctioning, so I think we are good.

Judging by the photo, you can probably remove the chain link from the fixture and replace it with a smaller one (to add maybe 1cm (1/2") to the length), you'll then want to wirenut on an additional length of wire that you would attach in the box.

Alternatively, you may still be able to return the light to the store if they're nice enough.


Can I prevent the horizontal seams from showing or allowing in excessive moisture when installing T1-11 siding? I'm building a 4x8 henhouse with 5 foot high walls and I'm planning to use T1-11 siding. I could obviously buy 6 sheets of 4x8 T1-11 for the siding, but the total wall coverage is going to only be 30 square feet minus the door cutout. So I should be able to get away with using only 4 sheets of 4x8 T1-11 if I am able to stack multiple partial sheets to cover a 5 foot high wall. My question is whether it is possible to do so without the horizontal seams showing or excessive moisture coming in.

The reason you don’t see T1-11 scabbed in is because you have to use Z flange to keep moisture out. Z flange is a metal flange that mounts behind comes out and goes over the lower sheet in a z shape. This prevents water from getting in it will seal but is obvious.


Install manual generator transfer switch to two 200A feeders I am installing a 400A meter main with a 200A feeder to the existing interior house panel and 200A to detached garage. Similar to this install:

Source: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/191178/125700
The house feeder will be on the distribution side with pass-through lugs. I plan to have the generator breaker installed in the first distribution position. This will cover all important circuits in the house.
My questions:

Is there a manual interlock kit for this panel (Eaton CG1212P400BS)?
Will the 30A generator breaker be acceptable in series with the 200A interior house panel?
Is there a different configuration that would allow the generator to power both feeders?

Project Phases

Upgrade to 400a service (underground), replace house feeder
(200A, underground) and upgrade garage feeder (200A, underground)
Move well circuit (30A) to house panel and well controller to basement
Allow for portable generator hook-up to house (via main panel, house panel or aux panel)
(future) Allow for portable generator hook-up to garage (via main panel, aux panel)
(future) Garage to shop feeder (sizing tbd)
(future) Garage to large greenhouses feeder (sizing tbd)
(future) House or garage mounted solar, storage in garage (system config tbd)

Additional Info (culled from comments)

Jurisdiction - PUD, South Central Washington State
Code - 2020 NEC
Verified with PUD engineer bypass is not required. The rule reads like bypass is required but really means that if bypass is present must be test block or manual circuit closing, not lever bypass.
House panels considered

Eaton CG1212P400BS - 2 x 200A mains (conventional choice in the area)
Eaton HP816P400BS - 2 x 200A mains
Siemens MC2442B1400SD - 1 x 400A main (no bypass, meets 2020 NEC 230.71, not in stock anywhere)
Siemens MC2442B1400SDS - 1 x 400A mian (with bypass, not needed according to PUD)

House grounded to Ufer electrode located below house panel (20ft. via raceway from new meter main panel location)
Well is 50 ft. from new meter main panel location, metal casing
Garage grounding to be all new
Portable generator not yet purchased, floating neutral seems to be required
Critical generator loads will be 30A well, 30A septic, 20A fridge, 20A freezer, 20A networking, 2x15A lights
Future critical garage loads will be 2x20A circuits
New main meter base to be installed on house with underground feeder through existing sweep to house panel and new run to garage panel

January Update
I went with the Eaton HP402442 house panel. A very nice piece of equipment. Inspector signed off on the rough-in. He confirmed they are still approving the dual feeder meter panels until July to give manufacturers time to comply. Still worth going with the 400a disconnect with distribution for the flexibility.  He suggested ground rods instead of connecting back to the Ufer. I think I’ll just do that to avoid having the run on the exterior of the house. I’m putting the generator panels on hold for now though the conduit is in. The house generator panel will be in the basement to simplify things a bit. Thanks for all the solid advice, I’m really happy with how it’s coming together.

Staying out of trouble where neutral meets ground
The first problem with your idea of using an "el cheapo" interlock kit with an arbitrary portable generator is that while the interlock deals with making sure the utility's hots don't get backfed, it does nothing to help you switch the neutral between the utility and the generator. While you can't get in trouble for backfeeding the utility this way, you can cause a bunch of consternation for yourself, as your average portable generator is going to ship with its neutral bonded to its frame and ground connections so that it can be safely and legally used for portable (i.e. jobsite) power.  This means that if you plug it into a system that doesn't switch the neutral, you'll have your generator's bond connected in parallel with the neutral-ground bond in your main panel, which can trip GFCIs on the generator and cause wayward neutral current to flow on normally nonenergized grounding wires.
Avoiding this requires the use of a transfer switch or panel that switches the neutral wire to the standby loads between the "utility" and "generator" side neutral wires in addition to switching the hots.  While these aren't as common as switching setups that use a solid neutral, they do exist in a few different variations.  The one we'll be using here is the XRK0603DR from Reliance Controls; while not nearly as cheap as an interlock, it provides a fairly convenient package in an outdoor-rated enclosure, although you'll have to fit the matching flanged inlet (L1430F for a 30A inlet to match your 30A generator) yourself.  (If you get a bigger generator, you can use an XRK0605DR and a matching LL530F inlet instead.  Note that with this setup you will need a California Standard 50A plug on your generator cord to go with your inlet, as there is no NEMA L14-50 configuration.)
With either of these, you'll need a label on the transfer switch saying it's for connection of a separately derived (bonded neutral) system, as per NEC 702.7(C).  Note that NEC 110.21(B) requires you to use a preprinted label/decal for this instead of something handwritten; your local sign shop should be able to find or make you something suitable that you can stick on the transfer switch.  This is atop the NEC 702.7(A) requirement that the service entrance equipment be labeled to denote where the standby source is (which can be satisfied by a note in the panel directory, since it isn't a caution, warning, or danger sign or label), and in your situation, the NEC 702.7(B) requirement that the service equipment bear a preprinted warning label about how disconnecting the GEC there would undo the generator's connection to earth.
Sidebar: what if you do get a floating neutral generator after all?
If you do somehow wind up with a floating neutral genset that you can't reconfigure to have a bonded neutral, this does not require a change of transfer hardware, luckily.  What you can do instead is "fill in" the missing bonding jumper using a tap connector off the generator neutral wire within the transfer switch and a piece of 8AWG or 6AWG copper connected from that neutral wire to the transfer switch grounding bar.  You'll need to use the correct NEC 702.7(C) label if you do this, though!
Interlocked and bypassed out
The other problem with your interlock proposal is that Class 320 single-main-breaker meter-panels don't support interlocks best I can tell, and their multiple-main-breaker counterparts are being rendered obsolete by the 2020 NEC's restrictions on the use of "rule of six" disconnecting arrangements.  Fortunately for us, all this is mooted by the neutral-switching issue, so we can simply go ahead and use a single-breaker Class 320 meter-panel for this, although we do need to make sure we have one that meets your utility's specifications, as your utility, like most of the Washington State PUDs and many other West Coast utilities, requires EUSERC compliant metering hardware.
Fortunately, the Siemens MC2442B1400SD you are considering fits that bill; this should be available through local electrical supply houses without too much trouble (the SDS variant has a test block bypass, so check for that too).  If you can't find that particular part, Milbank makes a suitable substitute known as the M404-UG-LC(-BS for a test block bypass), or you can use an Eaton U404430MC(C for a bypass) or HP402442 for that matter, although the last part is not available with a bypass feature.  All of these of these supply most of the knockouts we need, although you'll need to punch a couple of KOs in the right side yourself no matter which of these you pick.
A sidenote on architecture before we start wiring things up...
Note that I only talked above about a single transfer switch; this is acceptable in this application since Accessory Dwelling Units or other contrivances that may require separate metering are not a concern based on what you have said.  It does mean that we're running utility and standby feeders to the garage, though, vs. running utility and generator feeders.  This plays nicely with the idea of putting in battery storage at the house, and isn't a barrier to putting the batteries in the garage, either, as running a second feeder in the standby feeder conduit to the garage can be done without impacting its load carrying capacity too heavily if you play your cards right.
Note also that all of the aforementioned meter-panels are compatible only with underground service, not overhead; fortunately, your service is underground, like most Class 320 services, rendering this a non-issue for you.  Finally, we'll need to put in a whole-house surge protector for this service in order to meet the new 2020 NEC 230.67 requirement for surge protection on residential services.
Now that we have all that out of the way...
Now that we have all that out of the way, we can start discussing how this all fits together.  First up is the meter-panel, sitting atop the 3" PVC riser from the utility.  A 2" and a 1.5" PVC conduit run out of the meter-panel to the garage/shop space in a 24" deep trench, along with a second 1.5" conduit laid in the same trench but capped off at its stubups so that you don't need to dig anything up if you want to run fiber out to the shop.
In the meter-panel, we start by fitting a 60A breaker in the top left for the utility side of the transfer switch and a 50A breaker in the top right for the surge protector.  Below these two, we fit two 200A breakers, one each for the house and garage/shop feeders; the rest of the spaces in this panel are left open, though.  Once we've done that, we make a 1/2" KO in the right side of the panel in line with the 50A breaker and fit a Type 2 SPD there, using a pair of sealing locknuts to attach it so that water can't get in through a hole that'd let it drip onto live buswork.
With all that out of the way, we then can concern ourselves with connecting the transfer switch.  First off, we'll need a 1.25" by 12" rigid nipple; this goes into a field-punched 1.25" KO on the right side of the meter main that aligns with the matching KO on the left side of the transfer switch chosen.  Once the boxes are mounted and the nipple's installed, we can then proceed to wire it up with 6AWG copper from the utility terminals to the 60A breaker in the meter-main and the generator terminals to the inlet's connections.  It then gets fitted with another 50A or 60A breaker for the feed to the house and a 20A, 2-pole breaker for the standby feed to the garage/shed.  This latter feeder is wired with 4 12AWG wires headed back through the nipple to the 1.5" conduit coming off the main panel to the garage.
Moving onto the larger feeders, a four-wire feeder gets run from the transfer switch outside to a main lug subpanel inside for the actual standby loads in the house (you'll see why when we start talking about solar and batteries) using either a 6/3 cable of some sort, or 4 6AWG wires in whatever flavor of conduit you pick. (If you use NM for this, you'll be limited to 50A; you'll need to use conduit of some flavor, armored cable, or type SE cable in order to get 60A out of this, or go to a 4/3 NM cable for that matter.)  With that out of the way, we then can wire up the two big 200A feeders; the feeder going into the house gets run out the back of the meter-main with a 250kcmil-250kcmil-250kcmil-3/0 SER cable as 2" conduit won't fit into a 2x4 stud wall even with stud shoes on the holes, while the feeder to the garage is run using individual 250kcmil Al XHHW-2 wires inside the 2" PVC conduit from before alongside a 6AWG copper ground wire (green or bare).
Tying all this down to Planet Earth
Now, we can consider the grounding electrode systems this all requires.  At the house, you'll need to run a 4AWG copper wire from the meter-panel, via a suitable box connector (Arlington GC50 or equivalent), to the main house grounding electrode system, and fit an Intersystem Bonding Termination bridge to that copper wire for that matter to provide a place to land communications (phone, satellite-TV, and so on) grounding wires.  Note that this is 4AWG, and not the 2AWG that'd otherwise be called for by Table 250.66, since your grounding electrode is an Ufer and thus falls under NEC 250.66(B) instead.
Moving onto the garage, you'll need to use more of that 6AWG copper wire from earlier to connect the grounding bar of the garage's primary (200A) panel to a pair of 8' ground rods driven at least 8' apart.  The garage standby feeder, then, can be landed on a second, smaller main breaker panel, using a wirenut to splice the neutrals in the latter case, and a length of 6AWG copper to connect the grounding bar on the standby disconnect to the garage's grounding electrode system no matter what you use for a disconnect.
As to that solar + storage thing...
Now that all the basics are taken care of, we can start concerning ourselves with solar and storage matters.  First off, we start with straight grid-tied solar, as that's the easiest/simplest case.  While tying your solar system in at the main panel is the correct thing to do in this situation as it simplifies the figuring considerably, your existing plans don't account for the limits of the busbars in the main panel.  NEC 705.12(B)(2) point (3)(b) limits you to a total feed-in of 480A, split between the main breaker and 125% of the solar breaker, and requires the solar breaker to be at the opposite end of the panel from the main breaker as well.  Running the numbers, this means you are limited to a maximum of 64A of solar on an 80A breaker, which translates into just over 15kW of solar generation.
Adding storage changes this situation quite considerably; since a storage (multimode) inverter can form a grid all on its own, it can run in conjunction with grid-tied solar inverters (what's called "AC coupling"), a fuel-burning generator, or even solar inverters and a generator at the same time, at least as long as your batteries aren't full.  However, they rely on a very different power transfer configuration to accomplish their goals; in particular, instead of transferring a load between two independent sources, they have a single throw switch between the inverter-load connection and the power input, so that they can export power to the grid when a utility grid is present.
However, most multimode (solar + storage) inverters listed for use in the US do not transfer or otherwise switch the neutral wire, nor do the interface-devices (Backup Gateway or equivalent) used with AC-coupled energy storage systems.  This means we can't use any internal input-to-input transfer they provide with a portable generator. However, that works out OK in the end here since we already have a switching neutral transfer panel fitted to handle that job.
The end result is that you wind up with the battery/inverter setup wherever you wish it (at the garage is fine), with a transferred (utility or generator) feeder from the transfer panel running to the multimode inverter or transfer device (Backup Gateway, in Powerwall terms) via a maintenance disconnecting means.  The output of the multimode inverter or transfer device then runs over to an AC distribution panel with feeders from that to the house and garage/shop standby panels. That panel can also have an interlock on it to provide a bypass function so that standby power can be provided to loads while the battery inverter is inoperable, although that may not be advisable in some configurations.  The solar inverters also get re-routed to tie into that AC distribution panel, or a panel downstream of that AC distribution panel, in this setup, as that's simpler than trying to DC-couple the solar system with its attendant power electronics and DC switching/protection issues.
Note that since you're putting the storage in the garage for the last setup, you'll have to replace that existing 12AWG feeder and 20A breaker for the garage with a 60A breaker and a 6AWG copper or 4AWG aluminum feeder when you put the storage system in. In addition, you'll have to put a 60A breaker and another 6AWG Cu or 4AWG Al feeder to feed standby power from the AC distribution panel at the garage back to the house. This can run in the same conduit as the transfer-switch feed to the garage, though, as NEC 310.15(B) permits you to base the Table 310.15(B)(3)(a) adjustments off of the 90°C ampacity column when using 90°C rated conductors such as today's THHN/THWN-2, and for 4 current-carrying 6AWG wires (as neither the neutrals nor the ground count), 80% of 75A gives us exactly 60A.  Last but not least, you'll need to move the 60A breaker feeding the transfer panel down to the bottom of the main breaker box in order to use 705.12(B)(2) point (3)(b) as described above.
Note, by the way, that this limits you to 11.5kW of DC coupled storage with up to 11.5kW of solar behind it, or a combination of 11.5kW of solar and AC coupled storage.  If you want to go up to the full 15kW possible with your main panel while using the solar while the power's out, you'll need to use an XRK1003DR (instead of the XRK0603DR) for the transfer panel, along with 80A breakers instead of the 60A breakers, 2AWG Al wire instead of the 6AWG Cu or 4AWG Al in the standby-feeder conduit between the house and garage, and a 2-2-2-4 Al SER cable from the transfer panel to the house standby panel instead of the 6AWG Cu cable called for above.


How do I solve the allergic reaction (red burning eyes) from the mitsubishi unit in my bedroom? I have a twelve year old Mitsubishi unit in my bedroom.  I also have allergic reactions to pollen, mold, etc.  This year, for the first time, I wake up in the morning with red, burning eyes.  My husband changes the filter every year and I've never had this reaction.

Changing the filter once a year sounds underwhelming to me, they need to be changed based on load , Or how much dust is trapped on n the filter, once a year is a long time. Another user suggested hydrogen peroxide, I like hydrogen peroxide for other forms of cleaning but not on evaporators, I use special non acid coil cleaners they pull the dust and mold out of the fins without damaging the fins. For example NU-calgon makes a coil cleaner that you mix with water and spray on the coils, it foams and pushes dust and mold out without harming the evaporator coils and fins. This product can be found on line under the name of Nu-Brite, I use this for my home systems and at industrial facilities I do not work for them just really like this product. I don’t know what type of filter you have but once a year? Probably not often enough. At 12 years old I am sure both the inside and outside coils could use a good cleaning (never use a pressure washer to clean coils high pressure can destroy the fins) a good cleaning will reduce energy usage also. A gallon of new-brute cost ~25$  but would be enough to do several cleans on a home system, there are also no rinse versions that are easier to use for the inside unit (I just use a shop vac to clean up the foam and rinse water inside). Since you haven’t had problems in the past I would clean the inside coil at a minimum with a fresh filter, or have your HVAC company do this it takes time and the chemicals so expect about $150 if you have it done +- depending on location.
After re reading the question if this is a window unit the foam filter can be washed with warm soapy water an rinsed. The evaporator is tough to get to but the condenser coil on the outside is easy a good rinse of the system is probably needed.


Is my main panel improperly bonded? My house was built in 1975 and I pretty obviously have a "Rule of 6" GE main panel (the meter is above this)

My father-in-law (who has taught me a great many DIY things) swears that the neutral bus here is done wrong. (I didn't dare open the top where the meter is, but the bus extends above so I presume the service neutral connects up there.) I won't say he's outright wrong, but with this being the main panel, it looks acceptable to me (inasmuch as a panel of this age can be). I suspect the thick bare ground goes to a rod inside the slab, but I can't open the wall either to check, and I have no ground rods outside the box.
Is this passable, or is the only acceptable way to bond through a binding screw?

It's bonded, alright
Meter-main boxes like yours have their neutral bars permanently bonded to the case at the factory, and thus have a notation on their label saying that they are "suitable only for use as service equipment" (emphasis mine).  In your case, this is done through the mounting of the left-hand bar; if you look closely at it, you'll notice that there is no insulator between it and the case, unlike the neutral bars on a typical loadcenter, which are mounted on insulators (whether they be part of the backpan the busbars are attached to, or separate standoffs).


Powering Subpanel from CSED via Feed-Through Lugs I'm wiring my house and would like some feedback on the sizing and routing of conductors between the exterior service entrance and an interior subpanel. On the outside, I have installed a combination service entry device--aka CSED or meter main--by Square D (QC816F200C) with a 200 amp service disconnect. This panel features 8 slots, which will serve a whole-house surge arrestor (SqD HEPD80), a back-up generator power inlet (Eaton EGSPIB30), the well pump, and a branch feeder to power an outbuilding. My plan is to utilize the factory-installed feed-through lugs to then power the house subpanel, located approx. 35' to a central point in the interior. The subpanel is also by Square D (QO130M200PC) and came with a factory-installed 200 amp main breaker. The line between must pass through a sealed and conditioned (but unfinished) crawl space. Can anyone help me size the conductors, and let me know if they must be run in conduit? Many thanks.

Conduit would be a good idea, even if not strictly required

The main advantage running wires in conduit gives you is that you can put fatter wires, or more wires for something this large even, in if you find that your original run was insufficient.  In fact, a 2.5" EMT provides plenty of room for 3 250kcmil aluminum XHHW-2 conductors for now, and even expansion room for 3 more of them should you, or the next bloke who wants this place, want a 400A service later on, in addition to being the obligatory equipment grounding conductor.  If EMT is too costly an option, 3" schedule 40 PVC run within the structure could work as well, although you'd then need to run a separate equipment grounding conductor.

If you do go with the cable route, I would go with a 250kcmil-250kcmil-250kcmil aluminum SE-R cable; this gives you the full 200A, but limits you to that all the same.

That's an awfully small subpanel you have there

A 30 space panel is rather on the small side; 42 or even 60 spaces would be a much better use of your money and time here, given that it's far cheaper to buy the spaces now than it is to rip out and replace a too-small panel down the road.  Also, you can use a main lug panel on the inside of the house as it's a subpanel in the same structure (so it doesn't need to provide its own disconnecting means) and is not fed by downsized tap conductors (which are protected from overcurrent by the downstream OCPD).


240 volt not supplying 120 over one leg and the neutral I've got a 4 wire 240 volt receptacle set up to power an electric brewing controller.

There is a 240 30amp breaker in my main panel that then supplies a sun panel in the garage that has a 30amp gfci breaker,  that then goes to the outlet.

The 240 is for a heating element, but the control box is set up to split off one of the hot legs, and connect it up with the neutral to power some 120 volt items, lights, pumps,  CPU

So the receptacle will read 240 on the hot legs and powers the element light just fine. And will read between 110 and 120 connecting each hot leg to the neutral, but as soon as something is trying to get any power from the 120 circuit the voltage drops and there is no power.

Also went as far as to bypass the gfci breaker connecting it directly to the main panel. And no change.

Could the new 30 amp breaker in the panel just be bad?
One note is that we couldn't get the gfci breaker installed in the main panel without it constantly tripping, putting the gfci breaker in a sub panel fixed that, but I'm thinking there is still some issue in the main panel  .

Time for a nightlight test

Hit a dollar store and get two 2-prong extension cords and two incandescent nightlights (incandescent, without light sensor, straight switch-only).

On the extension cords, lop off the plugs (pointy end) and throw the plugs away, we are not making a suicide cord today*.

On the cut ends, split the two wires for about 1 foot (300mm).   Then strip about 1/2" (12mm) of insulation off each wire end.  The ribbed side of the cord is neutral, the smooth side is hot, if possible mark them white and black respectively.

Test the nightlights, then plug them into an extension cord socket.   Now you have a test cable.

With the main breaker off, land both extension-cord neutrals on the GFCI-breaker neutral (or the neutral bar if testing with a plain breaker).    Then land one extension cord "hot" on hot L1, and the other cord "hot" on pole L2.

Power up and see what happens to your voltages

Make sure both nightlights are on (or should be on).  I have a feeling one might not light up, that's why you test them first.

Now go back and do your voltage tests again.   I bet whichever 120V supply was "slightly lesser" in voltage now goes completely away.

That would be phantom voltage, which is picked up by capacitive coupling from adjacent 'hot' wires to a 'disconnected' wire.  There's no appreciable current behind it, and it can't do any useful work**. It is almost "static electricity" and is very easily neutralized by the slightest load (our nightlights).***

So now, I think the symptoms will be much clearer and easier to troubleshoot.

The trouble may be in the main panel.

* If you have an actual use for a cord-with-plug, then buy an extension cord long enough for both that and this, and cut at the appropriate point.

** unless tuning AM radio frequencies into a crystal earpiece is of interest to you.

*** I prefer nightlights to 22k ohm resistors because Radio Shacks are getting hard to find; plus nightlight cords have dozens of other uses in electrical troubleshooting.


Exposed wiring solution? Looking for some advice.  I want to add a chandelier to our family room but I do not have the ability to run the electrical behind the wood ceiling.  Is there a way to run the power exposed without using metal conduit?  Is there a plastic solution or something else that I could easily paint for it to blend in?
Thanks

A "swag" or hanging cord suspended from hooks is one approach to this problem. Special cordage that is "dressier" than standard cord is available to make it look better, but it's either a look you hate or one you can live with (perhaps, for a few, it's a look you love?) Seems like it's been out of fashion a long time, but was more popular once.


labels U, V, and W. Which positive, negative and ground? I have a Chinese solar powered pool pump that arrived with leads to the motor with labels U, V, and W. Any idea with would be positive, negative and ground?

U, V, and W =/= positive, negative, and ground. It's not even line, neutral, and ground (which would be more likely in AC - there is no positive and negative in AC). Instead it's more like line, line, and line. They refer to three phases which have a potential voltage difference from phase to phase. You get your power by connecting the load between the phases. It sounds like you cannot run your motor unless you have a 3-phase power source.


Shower head washer woes I was installing a new shower head (Brand: Niagara Earth), and apparently overtightened it, cracking the washer in the process. Unfortunately, it seems to be a specialty type of washer that has an integrated aerator screen, so I can't just buy a new one in Home Depot. What can I do to stop the water from squirting out of the joint? (Teflon tape and pipe compound didn't work; the threads are not tight enough.)

Any ideas?

As long as the shower head inside diameter is a standard size (which I imagine it is), you really should be able to find a washer with a built-in screen at your local hardware store (although I haven't tried myself so I could be wrong).

And still if you can't find one then you can just go with a standard washer without the screen.  (And maybe you could remove the screen from the broken washer and place it underneath the new standard washer that you just inserted.)

I think the screen in a shower head is not so much for aeration as to prevent contaminants from getting into the shower and interfering with the various spray patterns.


How to remove vent assembly from Kenmore 665.16262400 dishwasher Can anyone tell me how to remove the vent assembly from a Kenmore 665.16262400 dishwasher.  It looks like it should just turn, but I can't get mine to move.

Photos would definitely confirm but I believe your Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool and has an "open vent" style vent that is not electrically activated. From your description it seems that you already figured out to remove the top 6 T-15 torx screws on the upper inside of the door panel and lower the control panel to reveal the rectangular outer portion of the vent.

If you shine a flashlight into the rectangular "throat" of the outer vent piece you will see how the round inner piece interlocks with it. Your intuition is correct, this two piece assembly simply unlocks and locks together when you rotate the round inner vent piece. If it is stuck you might spray the rim of the inner piece with a penetrating lube and use a hand towel to improve your grip upon it. Wipe off the spray lube afterwards to prevent any damage to the plastic. It is supposed to be tight because both pieces have a rubber seal which prevents water intrusion.


How to remove calcium scale at waterline in swimming pool? My swimming pool is developing a calcium buildup on the coping tile at the waterline, what is the best method to remove it?  Pool chemistry is balanced regularly and has not been a problem.

CLR or other mild acidic cleaner will dissolve the calcium, even clear vinegar.

The calcium is in your water supply and is depositing out due to evaporation.  A water hardness test kit will tell you  the real story.  Your pool chemical dealer will have a treatment option for chealating the calcium out.

Here's an article from  Taylor chemical


wiring for garage lights I would like to change the light setup in my garage. Right now there is one switch that controls 3 lights, I would like to change to 3 Switchs that controls 6 lights.... 2 lights per one switch, can you show me a simple way to do this

Take power to each switch. Then feed neutral, ground, and a switched hot to each set of lights.

Grounds not shown for simplicity


Built-in bookshelf questions We are having a fairly large built-in bookshelf (w cabinets in bottom) made for our livingroom and the guy making it recently mentioned that he was considering mdf for the back panel (the rest of the bookshelf is plywood). Is mdf ok if it is just the backing? The is going to be a 90 inch wide unit, 8ft tall. We hope to have this stay strong and in good condition for many years. Just trying to understand if this is a bad place to use cheaper materials or if it is ok?
Also, the 90" unit is made up of three columns of 30" wide shelves. We had imagined that he would have constructed 3 different segments -basically three different bookcases of 30" each and then attached them together. But instead he has started it as one huge unit - a 90" board all the way across the top and bottom. (One unit for the top and one unit for the run of bottom cabinets.) He is adding vertical plywood panels going down at 30" intervals inside the 90" frame/box that he has made.  Aside from my confusion about how he will attach fixed shelving at the same height throughout the unit, I am also wondering if the unit will be much weaker and less stable if it is made as one 90" piece versus three separate smaller units attached.
I kniw he's done other carpentry projects but I don't think he's ever done something like this before so I'd like confirmation that this all sounds ok (and advice on mdf backing).
Thanks!!!!

First off, please clarify your questions in a list, it'll help sorting through your narration! Anyway, I'll take a stab at what I think your questions are:

MDF for backing: MDF's weak point in this installation would be in its tendency to sag when supporting weight if it were to be used as shelving. As a backing it is perfectly suitable, provided it's joined properly (using pilot holes, the right screws, etc.).
are 30" segments ok vs. individual 30" carcasses? Tough to say without knowing anything about the joinery. I'm not sure why you question the ability to maintain consistent shelf height though - that's the easy part (just cut the "wall" segments to the same dimensions.

In general, built-ins are a low-risk proposition - woodworking joinery is really meant to maintain joints subject to complex and changing loads (imagine rocking on the back two legs of a 4-legged chair). The static loads associated with built in shelves (vs a movable bookcase), even large ones from many books, are less of a concern. Actually, my main concern with this is your friend's design of the shelves to minimize sagging - make sure he has taken that into account. A helpful tool for that is: http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm


Can I cover the vent leading to my crawlspace? I am renting a house that has no central air, instead we have to use window units. There is evidence that the house used to have a gas heater, and there is a 2 foot by 3 foot hole in the floor leading to the crawlspace beneath the house with a grate placed over it. The landlord said she won't cover it, because it is for ventilation. Is this hole still necessary, or can I cover it up?

If that grate-covered hole is in a "common area" and up against a wall, you can bet that it was once a floor furnace. The combustion boxes on older gas floor furnaces would crack over time (decades) and become a carbon monoxide (CO) danger to inhabitants due to flue gas escaping into the home instead of going up and out the vent pipe. A utility inspector would red-tag (forbid the use of) the furnace when a new renter called for assistance with lighting the pilot light. Instead of replacing the unit, the landlord takes the easy way out and removes it, patching the wall above but with no easy way of repairing the hole in the floor. I have seen this exact scenario before.

To confirm, go up in the attic and see if there is an old vent pipe above the general area. If so, then go ahead and cover up that unneeded "ventilation" hole. It probably allows a musty smell in the house anyway. Do not disturb the old vent pipe if it appears to be something other than metal, it may be Transite pipe, which contains asbestos (a carcinogen).

Make sure there is really no functioning heating equipment down there before you cover it up (fire hazard). Your gas supply utility will send a technician to confirm for free if you tell them you have a safety concern.


Do I need to replace the wall after a shower head leak? So I was going to replace my shower head, but it was on there pretty good and started twisting the shower arm. I twisted the shower arm back into place maybe too tight and tested the water and didn't see any leaking.

I was going to buy a new shower arm the next day and install, but I never told my wife to not use the shower so the next day while she showered it broke at the threads in the wall. She turned off the water called me, but it was to late. The downstairs ceiling already had water damage because it came down through the two water pipe holes in the wood above.

I cut out a piece of the drywall ceiling so I could make sure the leaked stopped and dry it out. Now I'm wondering if I need to replace the wall between the shower and bathtub because mildew, etc. The walls on the outside don't show signs of water damage.

Would the water that sprayed out just fall below and I shouldn't have to worry about the wall between the shower and tub? Are the walls usually something other then normal drywall on both sides? I used a fan to blow air into the shower arm hole. Does anyone know if that would be enough or I need to rip apart the wall?

Thanks.

Chances are very good that the inside of the wall is just "regular sheetrock", and that will have gotten very wet.  That fan setup is pretty cool and should dry it out since you were smart enough to cut a hole in the ceiling.

Mold grows in areas that get wet and take a long time to dry.  If you can quickly and completely dry out a surface, it should be fine.  Once it's dry you can spray a mold preventative in the cavity just to be sure.

More on the sheetrock...  Builders use "green rock" (many names, but the front face is green most of the time) in wet locations.  The front face is moisture and mold resistant, but the back of the drywall is plain, brown paper.  Your water hit the plain paper.  Many remodelers will use a cement board to replace the old drywall because it's a much better material that they can warrantee, but only a very high quality builder would use that, and chances of it happening go down with the age of the house.


What is the name of this plumbing U wedge + connection The two black pipes pictured below are connected, and a U-shaped wedge is placed between them, apparently to close the connection.

What is the name of this connection or this wedge?

I will subsequently google the name you provide to look for how I can open the joint and reseal it.

I don’t think a seal failure is the issue, that leak seems to be from where that U clamp holds the joint together.

I suggest you need to replace the whole joint so a section of pipe and two joints will be needed.


Can quick-drying mud be used on the same drywall joints where slow-drying mud was used? I think I phrased the summary/title poorly but essentially, I'd like to know if all drywall mud coats need to use the same type of joint compound for all coats or if I can transition to quick drying mud in later coats.

Here's why I'm asking -- I'd like to learn the basics without being rushed.  Assuming that goes well, I'd like to switch to quick-drying mud so I can complete my current drywall project faster.

In addition to the things @Steve Jackson mentioned in his comment, the quick-drying mud (called setting compound) is also much harder to sand than the slower drying-type compound, which makes it not such a great choice for your final coats where you're going to be doing the most sanding.  Pros use it because they're able to apply it so well that it requires little or no sanding, and it saves them a ton of time.  In my opinion, non-pros (including myself) do best to reserve it for those couple of joints that are wider than they should be and call for stronger compound that doesn't shrink.

Also, with drying compound the later coats will take less time to dry just because they're thinner, so it's not going to delay your project as much as you might think after waiting for that first thicker coat to dry.


Crawl space insulation I have an older home with a cement floor crawl space. It is a cold air space and I would like to insulate and heat the area going forward. The cement floor is in good condition and is mostly covered with repurposed underlay and carpet (mostly to make the crawling bearable). The are no signs of moisture on the floor on on the walls neither. Can I seal off the vent to the outside and insulate the walls with rigid foam board without a vapor barrier? Should I also look at insulating the floor and are there other considerations I am missing?
Regards,
Brian

You can seal off the exterior vent if you are adding a fan that pushes air in and out of the crawlspace (air circulation, mimicking what that outside vent does).  However, those vents are passive and require no power, so why not leave it open and seal it off when temperatures drop below 15-20 degrees Fahrenheit?

You would not gain much from insulating the walls with a rigid foam board. Your best bet would be to insulate under your floor with an R-30 or higher fiberglass batt insulation.  That will seal your home tight with insulation from the bottom, while still allowing your crawl space to function properly with ventilation.


Product or technique to plug a pipe from the inside? I'm in the process of moving our laundry area from inside the house to the garage. I'm not going to dismantle the old washer drain stack or plumbing, as future owners may want to relocate the laundry back--plus, well, that's just extra work I don't want to deal with.

The problem is the current washer drain stand pipe. If it's not in use, the p-trap will eventually evaporate, plus I have a hunch that it may not be properly vented in the first place (we sometimes get a strange odor from it).

What's the best way to plug this pipe non-permanently? The catch is that since it's part of a washer box (where the drain and faucets are integrated) there's no outside to the pipe for me to add a proper cap. Would a rubber cork suffice if I find one the right diameter? Or some other DIY technique? One thought I had was a water balloon...but that seems imperfect. :)

You should be able to find caps that just pop on, or in the pipe.

Or you could get a test plug, if you really want.

(source: petersenproducts.com)


Is a "painting pad / sponge square" indeed the way to get a smooth wood surface after applying polyurethane? My last polyurethane finishing experiment failed. I applied fast-drying Varathane to 3/4" maple plywood shelves. They were very finely finished before applying the polyurethane, and became very rough after. I suspect that the culprit is a combination of overzealously going over surfaces more than once and using a fast-drying formula.

It's almost springtime and I'm now about to apply polyurethane to floors (after sanding them). I've learned the two lessons (use a slow drying formula to forgive minor overcoats, and attempt not to overcoat in the first place). Of course I'll be sure to remove the last speck of wood dust before finishing.

The last potential issue is the brush. I've used a general purpose brush (similar to those one might use for painting walls). But the first comment at the link above suggests using a painting pad / sponge squares. My local store's website lists "paint edger", brushes , and of course rolls. What are painting pad / sponge squares called at the main chains' websites, and are these indeed the simplest way to get a smooth finish after one application? My objective is to apply one layer this year and repeat when necessary, since I see that even the pros do not bother with two layers so I'd also rather not.

That sounds like water based polyurethane. Water based polyurethane is more difficult than oil based poly. You can recoat water-based poly with oil-based.

If that sound like something you want to do, then the first thing to do is let your shelves cure for 2 months. Then use fine (150 then 220 grit) sand paper. Clean the shelves thoroughly; dust with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.

Ventilate the area well and wear a respirator rated for organic fumes (follow the label warnings on the polyurethane can) when applying the finish.

Sponges and brushes are just different. Either one takes getting used to. Personally, I often use a lint free cloth over a sponge and I replace the cloth often. I am not saying that my way is any easier than another. Only practice makes perfect.


How can I close a gap between ceiling drywall and a furnace flue? My gas furnace is located in my laundry/utility and is normal(~80%?) efficiency with a Type B Flue. It goes up through the drywall ceiling into my attic(1 story) and out the roof and I verified that there is no insulation in contact. There is a ~1" air gap in the drywall which is a draft leak and worse is pulling in a significant amount of combustion air from the attic.
I'd like to seal this gap and can't quite make sense of the best way to do this. I understand that no contact with combustible material within 1" is code for type b vent but what is defined as combustible is not clear.
The closest thread I can find here is this one for a range vent How do I air-seal a range hood flute?
But I can't easily slip on the collar so I was thinking I could cut a slit to bend it onto the pipe at the ceiling and then aluminum tape or firestop caulk the cut once installed.
Could I instead just caulk the gap with 3m fireblock which is noncombustible? Or is setting drywall compound considered noncombustible?

Theres also fire caulking, pretty expensive and you may have to close the gap if its very big. They do have collars that fit around pipe with a flat flange extending outward. The poster above suggested to. Be aware of hot items against combustable material in an attic, the dryness creates a tender box effect.